diff options
Diffstat (limited to 'old/12667-8.txt')
| -rw-r--r-- | old/12667-8.txt | 29543 |
1 files changed, 29543 insertions, 0 deletions
diff --git a/old/12667-8.txt b/old/12667-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..754ceb3 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/12667-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,29543 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Lander's Travels, by Robert Huish + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Lander's Travels + The Travels of Richard Lander into the Interior of Africa + +Author: Robert Huish + +Release Date: June 20, 2004 [EBook #12667] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LANDER'S TRAVELS *** + + + + + + + + + +TRAVELS +OF +RICHARD AND JOHN LANDER, +INTO +THE INTERIOR OF AFRICA, +FOR THE DISCOVERY +OF THE +COURSE AND TERMINATION OF THE NIGER; + +FROM + +UNPUBLISHED DOCUMENTS IN THE POSSESSION OF THE LATE +CAPT. JOHN WILLIAM BARBER FULLERTON, +Employed in the African Service: + +WITH +_A Prefatory Analysis of the Previous Travels_ +OF +PARK, DENHAM, CLAPPERTON, ADAMS, LYON, RITCHIE, &c. +Into the hitherto unexplored Countries of Africa. + +BY ROBERT HUISH, ESQ. + +Author of the "Last Voyage of Capt. Sir John Ross, to the Arctic +Regions," "Memoirs of W. Cobbett, Esq." "Private and Political Life +of the late Henry Hunt, Esq." &c. &c. &c. + +LONDON: + +_(Printed for the Proprietors,)_ + +PUBLISHED BY JOHN SAUNDERS, 25, NEWGATE STREET. + +1836. + + + +INTRODUCTION. + +Many are the acquisitions which geography has made since the +boundaries of commerce have been extended, and the spirit of +enterprise has carried our adventurous countrymen into countries +which had never yet been indented by a European foot; and which, in +the great map of the world, appeared as barren and uninhabitable +places, destitute of all resources from which the traveller could +derive a subsistence. It must, however, on the other hand, be +admitted, that design has frequently had little to do in the +discovery of those countries, however well it may have been +conceived, and however great the perseverance may have been, which +was exhibited in the pursuit. The discovery of America was, indeed, +a splendid example of an enlightened conception, and an undaunted +heroism, crowned with the most complete success; and the laudable and +unabated ardour which this country, in despite of the most appalling +obstacles, has persisted in solving the great geographical problem of +the Course and Termination of the Niger, may be placed second in rank +to the discovery of America. + +As long as any fact is shut out from the knowledge of man, he who is +in search of it will supply the deficiency by his own conclusions, +which will be more or less removed from the object of his pursuit, +according to the previous opinions which he may have formed, or to +the credit which he may have placed on the reports of others. These +remarks cannot be better illustrated, than in the case furnished by +the Joliba, the Quorra, or Niger, the termination of which river was +utterly unknown until Richard and John Lander, braving difficulties +which would have broken any other hearts than theirs, succeeded in +navigating the river until its conflux with the ocean. Since Park's +first discovery of the Joliba, every point of the compass has been +assumed for the ulterior course and termination of that river, and +however wrong subsequent discovery has proved this speculative +geography to have been, it is not to be regarded as useless. Theories +may be far short of the truth, but while they display the ingenuity +and reasoning powers of their authors, they tend to keep alive that +spirit of inquiry and thirst for knowledge which terminates in +discovery. + +Various accounts of this river had been gradually collected from +different sources, which afforded grounds for fresh theories +respecting its termination. That of Reichard was the favourite, he +supposing that it assumed a southwest course, and terminated in the +gulph of Guinea. It was observed at the time, that there was neither +evidence on which such an opinion could be supported, nor any by +which it could be refuted. Discovery has proved him to be right in +respect to its ultimate disposal; but at the same time, he +participated in the general error regarding its course to Wangara. +These different opinions appeared in several publications, in which, +as might be expected, much error was mixed up with the general +correctness. That the river flowed into the sea at Funda, was the +principal and chief point that was gained; but the most extraordinary +circumstance attending this discovery, was, that no one knew where +Funda was. The only exception to these was the theory of Major +Denham, supported by Sultan Bello's information, who continued its +easterly course below Boossa, and ended it in Lake Tchad. + +Such was the uncertain condition in which the course of the Niger +remained, when the happy idea occurred of sending the Messrs. Landers +to follow its course below Boossa. By this step the British +government completed what it had begun, and accomplished in a few +months the work of ages. + + + +CONTENTS + +CHAP. I. +Herodutus. Early History of Africa. Interior of Africa. Malte Brun. +Division of Africa. Early African Discoveries. Portuguese +Discoveries. Madeira. Island of Arguin. Bemoy. Prester John. Death of +Bemoy. Elmina. Ogane. John II. Lord of Guinea. Diego Cam. His return +to Congo. Catholic Missionaries. Acts of the Missionaries. Magical +Customs of the Natives. Expulsion of the Portuguese. + +CHAP. II. +Expeditions of the English. Thompson. First Expedition of Jobson. +African Animals. Jobson's arrival at Tenda. Bukar Sano. Second +Expedition of Jobson. The Horey. Expedition of Vermuyden. Expedition +of Stibbs. Falls of Barraconda. Natives of Upper Gambia. Dangers from +the Elephants and Sea Horses. Travels of Jannequin. + +CHAP. III. +African Association. Expedition of Ledyard. His Death. Expedition of +Lucas. Major Houghton. His Death. + +CHAP V. [*] +Park's First Journey. Pisania. Dr. Laidley. Jindy. Mandingo Negroes. +Kootacunda. Woolli. Konjour. Membo Jumbo. Tallika. Ganado. +Kuorkarany. Fatteconda. Almami. Departure from Fatteconda. Joag. +Robbery of Mr. Park by the Natives. Demba Sego. Gungadi. Tesee. +Tigitty Sego. Anecdote of an African Wife. Kooniakary. Sambo Sego. + +[Footnote: Chap. IV. was accidentally numbered Chap. V.] + +CHAP. VI. +King Semba. Sego Jalla. Salem Daucari. Route from Soolo to Feesurah. +Kemmoo. Kaarta. Koorabarri. Funing Kedy. Ali, King of Ludamar. +Sampaka. Arrival at the Camp of Ali. Conduct of the Moors. Robberies +of Ali. Illness of Mr. Park. Curiosity of the African Ladies. +Whirlwinds of the Desert. An African Wedding. + +CHAP. VII. +Sufferings of Mr. Park. Departure of Ali. Park's introduction to +Fatima. Beauty of the Moorish Women. The Great Desert of Jarra. Demba +Taken by the Moors. Jarra. Queira. Escape of Mr. Park. His perilous +Situation. Shrilla. Wawra. Dingyee. Departure from Doolinkeaboo. +First view of the Niger. Amiable conduct of a Bambara Woman. Mansong +King of Sego. Sansanding. Park's encounter with a lion. Moorzan. +Silla. Kea. Superstition of the Natives. Madiboo. Sibity. Sansanding. +Conduct of Mansong. Yamina. Balaba. Taffara. Sominoo. Kollikorro. +Saphie writing. Bambakoo. Kooma. Park robbed by the Foulahs. +Reflections. + +CHAP. VIII. +Sibidooloo. The Mansa of Wonda. Mansia. Generous Conduct of a Karfa. +A Negro School. Treatment of the Slaves. Close of the Rhamadam. +Departure of the Coffle. The Jallonka Wilderness. Coffle attacked by +Bees. Fate of Nealee. Koba. Jallonka Banditti. Malacotta. +Magnanimous Conduct of Damel. Park's Arrival in England. + +CHAP. IX. +Frederic Horneman. Ummesogeir. Siwah. Conduct of the Siwahans. +Mourzouk. Fezzan. Death of Horneman. Nicholls. His Death. + +CHAP. X. +Adams. Soudenny. Timbuctoo. King and Queen of Timbuctoo. La Mar +Zarah. Natives of Timbuctoo. Their Customs. Their Religion. Female +Physicians. Amusements at Timbuctoo. Capture of Slaves. Penal Code at +Timbuctoo. Doubts respecting the Niger. + +CHAP. XI. +Adams' Departure from Timbuctoo. Tudenny. Distress in the Desert. +Vied D'leim. Escape of Adams. Hilla Gibla. Adam's Amour with Isha. +Adams sold as a Slave. Hieta Mouessa Ali. Recapture of Adams. + +CHAP. XII. +Wadinoon. Treatment of Slaves. Cruel Treatment of Adams. Murder of +Dolbie. Characteristics of European Slaves. Ransom of Adams. Return +of Adams to England. Justification of Adams. + +CHAP. XIII. +Sidi Hamet. Timbuctoo. Women of Timbuctoo. Dress of the Natives of +Timbuctoo. Bimbinah. Wassanah. Reflections on National Character. +Comparison between Adams and Sidi Hamet. Reflections on Timbuctoo. +Close of Adams' Narrative. + +CHAP. XIV. +Population of West Barbary. The Errifi. The Shilluh. Anecdote of +Shilluh. Character of the Arabs. The Moors. The Marabouts. Religion +of the Africans. + +CHAP. XV. +Second Expedition of Park. His Departure. Attacks on Mr. Park. His +disheartening Situation. Conduct of Mansong. Death of Mr. Anderson. +Death of Mr. Park. Manuscripts of Park. + +CHAP. XVI. +Tuckey's Expedition. His Departure. Disasters of the Expedition. +Death of Tuckey. Expedition of Captain Gray. Expedition of Major +Laing. + +CHAP. XVII. +Expedition of Captain Lyon. Benioleed. Zemzem. Bonjem. Sockna. Hoon. +Wadan. Journey to Mourzouk. Zeighan. Samnoo. Wad el Nimmel. + +CHAP. XVIII. +Mourzouk. Description of Mourzouk. Castle of Mourzouk. Construction +of the Houses of Mourzouk. The Fighi. African Education. The Burying +Places of Mourzouk. Dress of the Women. Filthy habits of the Natives. +Their Dances. Dresses of the Sultan's Children. The Sultan's Son. +Revenue of the Sultan of Fezzan. Personal Characteristics of the +Natives. Moral Character of the Fezzaners. Music of the Fezzaners. +Illness of Captain Lyon. His Distressing Situation. Treachery of +Mukni. Death of Mr. Ritchie. Return of Captain Lyon. + +CHAP. XIX. +Expedition of Denham and Clapperton. Sockna. Sand Storm in the +Desert. Mourzouk. Interview with the Sultan of Mourzouk. Boo Khaloom. +Departure of Major Denham for Tripoli. Sails for England. Entrance +into Sockna. Superstition of Boo Khaloom. Marriage at Sockna. +Agutifa. Tingazeer. Zeghren. Omhal Henna. Illness of Clapperton and +Oudney. Strength of the Expedition. Description of the Arabs. + +CHAP. XX. +Expedition to the Westward. Tuaricks. Kharaik. Gorma. Ancient +Inscriptions. Oubari. Roman Buildings. Route over the Sand Hills. +Wadey Shiati. Visit to the Town. Ghraat. Visit to the Sultan. Tuarick +Woman. + +CHAP. XXI. +Departure from Mourzouk. Gabrone. Medroosa. Tegerhy. Natives of +Tegerhy. Skeletons of Slaves. Major Denham and the Skeletons. +Slaughter of the Camels. Anay Sultan Tibboo. Kisbee. Tiggema. +Dirkee. Plundering Arabs. Bilma. Female Natives of Bilma. Boo +Khaloom, and Captain Lyon's Book. Surgical Skill of the Arabs. +Aghadem. Tibboo Couriers. Beere Kashitery. Negro Shampooing. Gunda +Tibboos. Mina Tahr. Arab Plunderers. Kofei. Traita Tibboos. Huts of +the Tarifas. Lake Tchad. Lari. Death of a Coluber. Nyagami. Tribe of +Monkeys. Woodie. Dress of the Natives of Woodie. Buridha. Strength of +Buridha. Min Ali Tahr, and the Royal Family of England. + +CHAP. XXII. +Approach to Kouka. Description of the Bornou Troops. Barca Gana. +Sheik of Kouka. Presentation to the Sheik. Costume of the Women of +Kanem and Bornou. Major Denham and a young Lion. The Court of Bornou. +Kouka. Angornou. The Bornouese. Sports of the Bornouese. Expedition +against the Kerdies. Mora, the Capital of Mandara. The Sultan of +Mandara. Malem Chadily. Expedition against the Fellatas. Defeat of +the Arabs. Death of Boo Khaloom. Perilous Situation of Major Denham. +Song on Boo Khaloom. Old Birnie. Gambarou. Expedition against the +Mungas. + +CHAP. XXIII. +Sultan of Loggun. The Loggunese. Mr. Tyrwhit. The Shouaa Arabs. Tahr, +the Chief of the La Salas. The Beddoomahs. Katagum. Sansan. Death of +Dr. Oudney. Market of Kano. Pugilism in Kano. Marriages and Funerals +of the People of Kano. The Governor of Hadyja. Quana. Females of +Quarra. Treatment of the Small Pox. A Fellata Fugitive. + +CHAP. XXIV. +The Wells of Kamoon. Arrival at Sockatoo. Sultan Bello. Abolition of +the Slave Trade. Clapperton's Visit to Sultan Bello. Death of Mr. +Park. Obstacles to the Journey to Youri. Books of Park. Final +Abandonment of the Journey. Ateeko, the Brother of Bello. Purchase of +Major Denham's Baggage. The Civet Cat. The Executioner of Sockatoo. +Departure from Sockatoo. Account of Sockatoo. Trade of Sockatoo. +Arrival in England. + +CHAP. XXV. +Lander's First Expedition with Clapperton. Sultan Bello's Letter. +Widah. The Sugar Berry. Beasts of Prey. Animals of Dahomy. Religion +of Dahomy. Its Government. Officers of the Court of Dahomy. Marriages +at Dahomy. Carnival at Abomey. Sacrifice of Victims at Abomey. +Anecdote of the King of Dahomy. Badagry. Introduction to the Chief of +Eyeo. Saboo. Humba, Death of Captain Pearce. Dances at Jannah. Lander +at an African Almacks. Duffoo. Erawa. Washoo. Koosoo. Akkibosa, +Medical Treatment in Eyeo. Loko. Tshow. Entrance into Katunga. +Theatrical Entertainments at Eyeo. Method of Salutation. + +CHAP. XXVI. +Situation of the City of Eyeo. Its Markets. Feasts of the +Youribanies. Produce of Youriba. Etiquette at the Court of Katunga. +African Antelopes. Sultan Yarro. Female Cavalry. Kiama. Sultan. +Yarro's Daughter. Wawa. Its Productions and Natives. The Widow Zuma. +Her Costume and Domestic Marriage to Clapperton. Character of the +Inhabitants of Wawa. Departure from Wawa. Boussa. Inquiries +respecting Park. Place of Park's Death. Expected Recovery of Park's +Journal. Letter from the King of Youri. Conduct of the Widow Zuma. +Her Dress and Escort. Mahommed El His Camp. Rejoicings at Koolfu. Its +Trade. The Widow Laddie, Employment of time at Koolfu. Character of +its People. Akinjie. Futika. Baebaejie. + +CHAP. XXVII. +Military Tactics of the Fellatas. Female Warrior of Zamfra. +Proceedings of Bello. Letter of Sultan Bello. Death of Clapperton. + +CHAP. XXVIII. +Almena. Cannibals of Almena. Natives of Catica. The River Coodoma. +Cuttup. The Sultan of Cuttup. Lander and the Wives of the Sultan. The +River Rary. Dunrora. Lander taken back to Cuttup. Zaria. Crosses the +Koodonia. Arrival at Badagry. Attempt on the Life of Lander by +Poison. Ransomed by Captain Laing. Arrival in England. + +CHAP. XXIX. +African Discoveries. Expedition of Richard and John Lander. +Instructions of Government. Departure from Portsmouth. Badagry. Visit +to King Adooley. His Conduct. Traits of Lander's Character. Visit of +the King's Eldest Son. Intrigues of the Mulattoes. Division of +Badagry. Visit to the King of Portuguese Town. Customs of the +Natives. + +CHAP. XXX. +Evasive Conduct of Adooley. Visit to Adooley. Visit from the Chief of +Spanish Town. Rapacity of Adooley. Visit of General Poser's Headman. +Religious Rites of the Mahommedans. Sports of the Natives. The Houssa +Mallams. Surgical Skill of Richard Lander. Articles demanded by +Adooley. Female of Jenna. Character of Adooley. His Filial Affection. +Battle between the Lagos and Badagrians. Trial by the Cap. + +CHAP. XXXI. +Departure from Badagry. Progress up the River. Arrival at Wow +Regulations of the Fetish at Wow. The Village of Sagba. Passage of a +Swamp. Basha. Soato. Arrival at Bidjie. Bad Faith of Adooley. +Introduction to the Chief of Bidjie. Departure from Bidjie Arrival of +a Messenger from Jenna. Laatoo. Larro. The Chief of Larro. Customs at +Larro. Departure from Larro. Introduction at the Court of Jenna. The +Governor of Jenna. Pascoe and his Wife. Musicians of Jenna. The +Badagry Guides. African Wars. Women of Jenna. Fate of the Governor's +Wives. Conduct of the Widow. Abominable Customs at Jenna. Mourning of +the Women. An African Tornado. Departure from Jenna. Arrival and +Departure from Bidjie. The Chief of Chow. Departure from Chow. Egga. +Arrival at Jadoo. Natives of Jadoo. Affection of the African Mothers. +Engua. Afoora. Assinara. Arrival at Chouchou. Tudibu. Eco. Dufo. +Chaadoo. Arrival at Row. Chekki. Coosoo. The Butter Tree. Departure +from Coosoo. Arrival at Acboro. Lazipa. Cootoo. Bohoo. Visit to the +Head Minister. Mallo. Jaguta. Shea. Esalay. Desertion of Esalay. +Atoopa. Leoguadda. Eetcho. Market at Eetcho. Eetcholee. Arrival at +Katunga. + +CHAP. XXXII. +Visit to Mansolah. Customs of the Court of Katunga. Mansolah's Visit +to the Landers. Intended Route of the Landers. The Master of the +Horse. Decay of Katunga. The Markets of Katunga. Visit from Ebo. +Intrigues of the Wives of Ebo. Visit of Houssa Mallams. Presents to +the Head Men. Their Affluence. Site of Katunga. Character of the +Natives. Political Constitution of Alorie. Exhibition of the +Presents. Projected Departure from Katunga. Wives of Mansolah. Last +Interview with Mansolah. + +CHAP. XXXIII. +Departure from Katunga. Revolt of the Carriers. Arrival at Rumbum. +Acra. Visit of the Natives. The Governor of Keeshee. Visit of the +Mallams. Singular Application of an Acba Woman. Departure from Acba. +Return of the Badagry Guides. African Banditti. Village of Moussa. +Progress to Kiama. Meeting of the Kiama Escort. Arrival at Benikenny. +Kiama. + +CHAP XXXIV. +Presents to the King of Kiama. Visit to the King. Parentage of the +Widow Zuma. Visit from the Mahommedan Mallams. Their Honesty. The +Bebun Salah. Religious Ceremonies of the Mahommedans. Anniversary of +the Bebun Salah. Races at Kiama. Approach of the King. His Dress. The +King's Children. + +CHAP. XXXV. +Kakafungi. Illness of John Lander. Distressing Situation of the +Landers. Departure from Coobley. The Midiki, or Queen of Boussa. Mr. +Park's Effects. Disappointment respecting Mr. Park's Papers. Kagogie. +Arrival at Yaoorie. Deceitful conduct of the Sultan. Description of +Yaoorie. Message to the King of Boussa. Departure from Yaoorie. +Letter from the Sultan of Yaoorie. + +CHAP. XXXVI. +Arrival at Guada. Adventure with a Crocodile. Subterraneous Course +of the Niger. The King Consults the Niger. Arrival at Wowow. +Interview with the King. Negotiation for a Canoe. The King and the +Salt Cellar. Arrival of the Canoe from Wowow. Preparations for +Departure. Departure from Boossa. Arrival at Patashie. Message from +the King of Wowow. Visit to the King of Wowow. Return to Patashie. +Arrival at Lever. Conduct of Ducoo. Canoes demanded by the Chief of +Teah. Treacherous Conduct of the Chief. Departure from Patashie. +Bajiebo. Interview with the Chief of Leechee. Majie. Belee. The King +of the Park Water. Interview with the Water King. Progress down the +Niger. Zagozhi. Messengers arrive from Rabba. + +CHAP. XXXVII. +Visit of the two Arabs. Message from Mallam Dendo. Present of Mr. +Park's Tobe to the Prince of Rabba. Perfidy of the King of Nouflie. +Departure from Zagozhi. Noble Speech of the Prince of Rabba. +Construction of the Canoes. Last Audience of the King of the Dark +Water. + +CHAP. XXXVIII. +Danger from the Hippopotami. Dacannie. Gungo. Arrival at Egga. +Annoyances at Egga. Departure from Egga. Arrival at Kacunda. Visit +from the Chief's Brother. Departure from Kacunda. Alarm of the +Natives. Hostile motions of the Natives. Explanation of the Chief. +Information obtained from the Funda Mallam. Detention at Damaggoo. +First signs of European intercourse. Departure from Damaggoo. Arrival +at Kirree. Attacked by the Natives. The Landers taken to Kirree. Loss +of their Property. Holding of a Palaver. The Kirree people. + +CHAP. XXXIX. +Departure from Kirree. Superstition of the Eboes. Arrival at an Eboe +Town. Visit to the King of Eboe. First interview with Obie. The +Palaver. King Boy. Character of the Kings of Africa. Decision of +Obie. Embarrassments of the Landers. Conduct of the Eboe people. +Revels of the Natives. The little fat female Visitor. Her +Intoxication. + +CHAP. XL. +Exorbitant demand of King Boy. Visit of King Obie. Arrangement made +with King Boy. Preparation for Departure. Hostile disposition of the +Natives. Description of Adizzetta. Etiquette of King Boy. Offering to +the Fetish. Progress down the River. Uncomfortable situation of the +Landers. Introduction to Forday. Progress to Brass Town. Procession +down the River. Superstitious Practices of the Natives. Description +of Brass, Residence of the Landers at Brass. Traffic of the Natives. + +CHAP. XLI. +Richard Lander proceeds to the English Brig. Arrival in the second +Brass River. Reception on board the Brig. Scandalous conduct of +Captain Lake. Disappointment of King Boy. Captain Lake and the Pilot. +Unfeeling behaviour of Lake. Richard Lander's anxiety about his +Brother. Return of John Lander. John Lander's stay at Brass Town. His +Narrative. + +CHAP. XLII. +Proceedings on board the Brig. Presents to King Boy. Perfidy of the +Pilot. Hostile Motions of the Natives. Brig. Providential Escape. +Nautical Instructions. Release of Mr. Spittle. Perilous Situation of +the Passage to Fernando Po. Fernando Po. Colonization of Fernando Po. +Traffic with the Natives. Localities of Fernando Po. The Kroomen. +Natives of Fernando Po. Costume of the Natives. Their Thieving +Propensities. Punishment of the Thieves. Resources of the Island. +Method of obtaining Palm Wine. Island of Anna Bon. Injurious Effects +of the Climate. Prospective Commercial Advantages. Voyage to the +Calebar River. Geographical and Nautical Directions. The Tornadoes. +Superstitious Custom of the Natives. Duke Ephraim. Visit to Duke +Ephraim. The Priests of Duke Town. Mourning amongst the Natives. +Attack of an Alligator. The Thomas taken by a Pirate. Departure from +Fernando Po. Death of the Kroomen. Arrival in England. Advantages of +the Expedition. Investigation of the Niger. Course of the Niger. +Ptolemy's Hypothesis of the Niger. Sources of the African Rivers. +Benefit of Lander's Expedition. + +CHAP. XLIII. +Richard Lander's Third Expedition. Fitting out of the Expedition. +Vessels Employed in the Expedition. Sailing of the Expedition. +Arrival in the River Nun. Attack of the Natives. Impolitic Conduct of +Lander. Return of Richard Lander to Fernando Po. Return of Lander to +Attah. Reconciliation of the Damaggoo Chiefs. Abolition of the +Sacrifices of Human Beings. Rabba. Ascent of the River Tchadda. +Prophecy of King Jacket. Lander wounded by the Natives. Approaching +Death of Lander. Death of Richard Lander. Infamous Conduct of +Liverpool Merchants. Causes of the Attack. Meeting of the Inhabitants +of Truro. + + + +THE +TRAVELS +OF +RICHARD LANDER, +INTO +THE INTERIOR OF AFRICA. + + + +CHAPTER I. + +Previously to entering upon the immediate subject of the origin and +progress of the different voyages, which have been undertaken for +exploring the interior of Africa, it may be not only interesting, but +highly instructive, to take a rapid survey of the great Peninsula, as +it appeared to the earlier travellers, and as it was found by the +last of them, amongst whom may be included the individual, whose +adventures in the present work, claim our chief attention. It is on +record, that the coasts of Africa have been navigated from as early a +period, as six hundred years before Christ, and, according to the +earliest records of history, the circumnavigation of Africa was +accomplished by the Phoenicians, in the service of Pharaoh Necho. On +referring to Herodotus, the earliest and most interesting of Greek +historians, and to whom we are indebted for the knowledge of many +important facts relative to Africa, in the earliest periods of its +history, we find, in corroboration of the circumnavigation of Africa +by the Phoenicians, "that taking their course from the Red Sea they +entered into the Southern Ocean; on the approach of autumn, they +landed in Lybia, and planted some corn in the place, where they +happened to find themselves; when this was ripe, and they had cut it +down, they again departed. Having thus consumed two years, they in +the third passed the columns of Hercules, and returned to Egypt. +Their relation may obtain attention from others, but to me it seems +incredible, for they affirmed that having sailed round Africa, _they +had the sun on their right hand._" + +It is worthy of remark, that the very circumstance, which led +Herodotus to attach discredit to the circumnavigation of Africa by +the Phoenicians, on account of their having the sun to the right, is +the very strongest presumption in favour of its truth. Some +historians have indeed endeavoured to prove, that the voyage was +altogether beyond any means, which navigation at that early era could +command; but in the learned exposition of Rennell, a strong degree of +probability is thrown upon the early tradition. At all events it may +be considered, that the obscure knowledge, which we possessed of the +peninsular figure of Africa, appears to have been derived from the +Phoenicians. Herodotus, however, was himself a traveller, in those +early times, of no mean celebrity. Despairing of obtaining accurate +information of the then known part of the habitable world, he +determined to have recourse to travelling, for the purpose of +completing those surveys, which had been undertaken by his +predecessors, and which had been left in a dubious and indefinite +state. He resided for a considerable period in Egypt, during which, +he entered into a friendly communion with the native priests, from +whom he obtained much accurate information, as well as a great deal +that was false and exaggerated relative to the extensive region, +which extends from the Nile to the Atlantic. According to his +description it is much inferior in fertility to the cultivated parts +of Europe and Asia, and suffering extremely from severe drought; yet +he makes mention of a few spots, such as Cinyps, and the high tract +Cyrene, which, undergoing the process of irrigation, may stand +comparison with the richest portions of the globe. Generally, +however, in quitting the northern coast, which he terms significantly +the forehead of Africa, the country became more and more arid. Hills +of salt arose, out of which the natives constructed their houses, +without any fear of their melting beneath a shower in a region where +rain was unknown. The land became almost a desert, and was filled +with such multitudes of wild beasts, as to be considered their proper +inheritance, and scarcely disputed with them by the human race. +Farther to the south, the soil no longer afforded food even to these +wild tenants; there was not a trunk of a tree, nor a drop of +water--total silence and desolation reigned. + +This may be considered as the first picture on record of the northern +part of Africa; a country, which, even after the lapse of two +thousand years, presents to the eye of science, as regards its +interior recesses, a blank in geography, a physical and not less a +moral problem; a dark and bewildering mystery. The spirit of +enterprise has carried our mariners to the arctic seas, braving the +most appalling dangers in the solution of a great geographical +problem; by the same power, civilization has been carried into the +primeval forests of the American continent, and cities have arisen in +the very heart of the Andes. The interior of Africa, however, +notwithstanding its navigable rivers, has been hitherto almost a +sealed chapter in the history of the globe. The deserts, which extend +from Egypt to the Atlantic, and which cover a great surface of the +interior, have proved a barrier to the march of conquest, or +civilization; and whatever science has gained, has been wrested by +the utmost efforts of human perseverance and the continual sacrifice +of human life. + +It must, however, be allowed that there are obstacles existing to the +knowledge and the civilization of central Africa, which cannot be +overcome by the confederated power of human genius. Extending 5000 +miles in length, and nearly the same extent in breadth, it presents +an area, according to Malte Brun, of 13,430,000 square miles, +unbroken by any estuary, or inland sea, and intersected by a few long +or easily navigable rivers; all its known chains of mountains are of +moderate height, rising in terraces, down which the waters find their +way in cataracts, not through deep ravines and fertile valleys. Owing +to this configuration, its high table lands are without streams, a +phenomenon unknown in any other part of the world; while, in the +lower countries, the rivers, when swelled with the rains, spread into +floods and periodical lakes, or lose themselves in marshes. According +to this view of the probable structure of the unknown interior, it +appears as one immense flat mountain, rising on all sides from the +sea by terraces; an opinion favoured by the absence of those narrow +pointed promontories, in which other continents terminate, and of +those long chains of islands, which are, in fact, submarine +prolongations of mountain chains extending across the main land. It +is, however, not impossible, that in the centre of Africa, there may +be lofty table lands like those of Quito, or valleys like that of +Cashmeer, where, as in those happy regions, spring holds a perpetual +reign. + +In regard to the population, as well as its geographical character, +Africa naturally divides itself into two great portions, north and +south of the mountains of Kong and the Jebel el Komar, which give +rise to the waters of the Senegal, the Niger and the Nile. To the +north of this line, Africa is ruled, and partially occupied by +foreign races, who have taken possession of all the fertile +districts, and driven the aboriginal population into the mountains +and deserts of the interior. It is consistent with general +experience, that in proportion as civilization extends itself, the +aboriginal race of the natives become either extinct, or are driven +farther and farther into the interior, where they in time are lost +and swept from the catalogue of the human race. + +South of this line, we find Africa entirely peopled with the Negro +race, who alone seem capable of sustaining the fiery climate, by +means of a redundant physical energy scarcely compatible with the +full development of the intellectual powers of man. Central Africa is +a region distinguished from all others, by its productions and +climate, by the simplicity and yet barbarian magnificence of its +states; by the mildness and yet diabolical ferocity of its +inhabitants, and peculiarly by the darker nature of its +superstitions, and its magical rites, which have struck with awe +strangers in all ages, and which present something inexplicable and +even appalling to enlightened Europeans; the evil principle here +seems to reign with less of limitation, and in recesses inaccessible +to white men, still to enchant and delude the natives. The common and +characteristic mark of their superstition, is the system of Fetiches, +by which an individual appropriates to himself some casual object as +divine, and which, with respect to himself, by this process, becomes +deified, and exercises a peculiar fatality over his fortune. The +barbarism of Africa, may be attributed in part its great fertility, +which enables its inhabitants to live without are but chiefly to its +imperviousness to strangers. Every petty state is so surrounded with +natural barriers, that it is isolated from the rest, and though it +may be overrun and wasted, and part of its inhabitants carried into +captivity, it has never been made to form a constituent part of one +large consolidated empire and thus smaller states become dependent, +without being incorporated. The whole region is still more +inaccessible on a grand scale, than the petty states are in +miniature; and while the rest of the earth has become common, from +the frequency of visitors, Africa still retains part of the mystery, +which hung over the primitive and untrodden world. + +Passing over the attempts of the very early travellers to become +acquainted with the geographical portion of Africa, in which much +fiction, and little truth, were blended, we arrive at that period, +when the spirit of discovery began to manifest itself amongst some of +the European states. The darkness and lethargy, which characterised +the middle ages, had cast their baneful influence over every project, +which had discovery for its aim, and even the invaluable discovery of +the mariner's compass, which took place at the commencement of the +thirteenth century, and which opened to man the dominion of the sea, +and put him in full possession of the earth had little immediate +effect in emboldening navigators to venture into unfrequented seas. +At a somewhat earlier period, it is true, the Hanse Towns and the +Italian republics began to cultivate manufactures and commerce, and +to lay the foundation of a still higher prosperity, but they carried +on chiefly an inland or coasting trade. The naval efforts, even of +Venice or Genoa, had no further aim than to bring from Alexandria, +and the shores of the Black Sea, the commodities of India, which had +been conveyed thither chiefly by caravans over land. Satisfied with +the wealth and power, to which they had been raised by this local and +limited commerce, these celebrated republics made an attempt to open +a more extended path over the ocean. Their pilots, indeed, guided +most of the vessels engaged in the early voyages of discovery, but +they were employed, and the means furnished, by the great monarchs, +whose ports were situated upon the shores of the Atlantic. + +The first appearance of a bolder spirit, in which the human mind +began to make a grand movement in every direction, in religion, +science, freedom, and liberty, may be dated from about the end of the +fifteenth century. The glory of leading the way in this new career, +was reserved for Portugal, then one of the smallest, and least +powerful of the European kingdoms. + +When in 1412, John I. sent forth a few vessels, to explore the +western shores of Africa, while he prepared a great armament to +attack the moors of Barbary, the art of navigation was still very +imperfect, nor had the Portuguese ever ventured to sail beyond Cape +Non. But what most powerfully contributed to give impulse and +direction to the national ardour, was the enlightened enthusiasm, +with which prince Henry of Portugal, a younger son of John I., +espoused the interests of science, and the prosecution of nautical +discovery. In order to pursue his splendid projects without +interruption, he fixed his residence at Sagres, near Cape St. +Vincent, where the prospect of the open Atlantic continually invited +his thoughts to their favourite theme. His first effort was upon a +small scale. He fitted out a single ship, the command of which was +entrusted to two gentlemen of his household, who volunteered their +services, with instructions to use their utmost endeavours to double +Cape Bojador, and thence to steer southward. According to the mode of +navigation, which then prevailed, they held their course along the +shore, and by following that direction, they must have encountered +almost insuperable difficulties, in the attempt to pass the cape; +their want of skill was, however, compensated by a fortunate +accident. A sudden squall drove them out to sea, and when they +expected every moment to perish, landed them on an unknown island, +which, from their happy escape, they named Porto Santo. They returned +to Portugal with the good tidings, and were received with the +applause due to fortunate adventurers. The following year, prince +Henry sent out three ships to take possession of the new island; a +fixed spot on the horizon, towards the south, resembling a small +black cloud, soon attracted the attention of the settlers, and the +conjecture suggested itself that it might be land. Steering towards +it, they arrived at a considerable island, uninhabited, and covered +with wood, which, on that account, they called Madeira. + +By these voyages, the Portuguese became accustomed to a bolder +navigation, and at length, in 1433, Gilianez, one of prince Henry's +captains, by venturing out into the open sea, succeeded in doubling +Cape Bojador, which, until then, had been regarded as impassable. +This successful voyage, which the ignorance of the age placed on a +level with the most famous exploits recorded in history, opened a new +sphere to navigation, as it discovered the vast continent of Africa, +still washed by the Atlantic Ocean, and stretching towards the south. +A rapid progress was then made along the shores of the Sehara, and +the Portuguese navigators were not long in reaching the fertile +regions watered by the Senegal and the Gambia. + +The early part of this progress was dreary in the extreme; they saw +nothing before them but a wild expanse of lifeless earth and sky, +naked rocks and burning sands, stretching immeasurably into the +exterior, and affording no encouragement to any project of +settlement. After, however, passing Cape Blanco, the coast began to +improve in appearance, and when they saw the ivory and gold brought +down from the interior, those regions began to excite the lust of +conquest. This was, however, an undertaking beyond the means of any +force which had as yet sailed from Portugal. In 1443, however, Nuno +Tristan discovered the island of Arguin, and as Gonzalo da Centra was +in 1445 killed by a party of negroes, in attempting to ascend a small +river, near the Rio Grande, the Portuguese considered an insular +position to be the most eligible for a settlement, and the island of +Arguin was accordingly fixed upon. + +This establishment had been scarcely formed, when an important event +took place, which afforded a favourable opportunity and pretext for +laying the foundation of the Portuguese empire in Africa. Bemoy, a +prince of the Jaloofs, arrived at Arguin, as a suppliant for foreign +aid, in recovering his dominions from a more powerful competitor or +usurper. He was received with open arms, and conveyed to Lisbon, +where he experienced a brilliant reception, his visit being +celebrated by all the festal exhibitions peculiar to that age, +bull-fights, puppet-shows, and even feats of dogs. On that occasion, +Bemoy made a display of the agility of his native attendants, who on +foot, kept pace with the swift horses, mounting and alighting from +these animals at full gallop After being instructed in the Christian +religion, he was baptized, and did homage to the king and the pope, +for the crown, which was to be placed on his head; for this purpose a +powerful armament under the command of Pero vaz d'Acunha, was sent +out with him, to the banks of the Senegal. + +The circumstance, which tended more particularly to inflame the pious +zeal of the Christian monarch, was the information, that to the east +of Timbuctoo there was a territory inhabited by a people who were +neither moors nor pagans, but who, in many of their customs resembled +the Christians. It was immediately inferred, that this could be no +other than the kingdom of the mysterious personage known in Europe, +under the uncouth appellation of Prester John. This singular name +seems first to have been introduced by travellers from eastern Asia, +where it had been applied to some Nestorian bishop, who held there a +species of sovereignty, and when rumours arrived of the Christian +king of Abyssinia, he was concluded to be the real Prester John. +His dominions being reported to stretch far inland, and the breadth +of the African continent being very imperfectly understood, the +conclusion was formed, that a mission from the western coast might +easily reach his capital. It does not fully appear, what were the +precise expectations from an intercourse with this great personage, +but it seems to have been thoroughly rooted in the minds of the +Portuguese, that they would be raised to a matchless height of glory +and felicity, if they could by any means arrive at his court. The +principal instruction given to all officers employed in the African +service, was, that in every quarter, and by every means, they should +endeavour to effect this discovery. They accordingly never failed to +put the question to all the wanderers of the desert, and to every +caravan that came from the interior, but in vain, the name had never +been heard. The Portuguese then besought the natives at all events, +into whatever region they might travel, studiously to inquire if +Prester John was there, or if any one knew where he was to be found, +and on the promise of a splendid reward, in case of success, this was +readily undertaken. + +The conclusion of the adventure of Bemoy, was extremely tragical. +A quarrel having arisen between him and the commander of the +expedition, the latter stabbed the African prince on board his own +vessel. Whether this violent deed was prompted by the heat of +passion, or by well-grounded suspicions of the prince's fidelity, was +never fully investigated, but the king learned the event with great +regret, and in consequence, gave up his design of building a fort on +the Senegal. Embassies were, however, sent to the most powerful of +the neighbouring states, nor was any pause made in the indefatigable +efforts to trace the abode of Prester John. Amongst the great +personages, to whom an embassy was sent, are mentioned the kings of +Tongubutue, (Timbuctoo,) and Tucurol, a Mandingo chief named +Mandimansa, and a king of the Foulhas, with all of whom a friendly +intercourse was established. All endeavours were, however, vain as to +the primary object, but the Portuguese thereby gained a more complete +knowledge of this part of interior Africa than was afterwards +attained in Europe till a very recent period. + +There is, however, one circumstance attending these discoveries of +the Portuguese, and the embassies, which they in consequence sent to +the native princes, which deserves particular attention. There is +very little doubt existing, but that the Portuguese were acquainted +with the town and territory of Timbuctoo; and the question then +presents itself, by what means did the Portuguese succeed in +penetrating to a kingdom, which, for centuries afterwards, baffled +all the efforts of the most enterprising travellers to arrive within +some hundred miles of it. The city of Timbuctoo, for instance, was, +for a considerable length of time, the point to which all the +European travellers had directed their attention; but so vague and +indefinite were the accounts of it, that the existence of Timbuctoo +as a town, began to be questioned altogether, or at least, that the +extraordinary accounts, which had been given of it, had little or no +foundation in truth. From the time of Park to the present period, we +have information of only three Europeans reached Timbuctoo, and +considerable doubt still exists in regard to the truth of the +narrative of one of them. It is true that the intelligence of the +Portuguese embassies, as respecting the particulars of them, and the +manner in which they were conducted, has either perished, or still +remains locked up in the archives of the Lusitanian monarchy. But +when we look into the expeditions, which have been projected of late +years into the interior of Africa, we cannot refrain from drawing the +conclusion, that the character of the African people must have +undergone a change considerably for the worse, or that our +expeditions are not regulated on those principles so as to command +success. + +The Portuguese in the meantime continued to extend their discoveries +in another quarter, for in 1471, they reached the Gold Coast, when +dazzled by the importance and splendour of the commodity, the +commerce of which gave name to that region, they built the fort of +Elmina or The Mine, making it the capital of their possessions on +that part of the continent. Pushing onward to Benin, they received a +curious account of an embassy said to be sent at the accesion of +every new prince, to a court of a sovereign named Ogane, who was said +to reside seven or eight hundred miles in the interior. On the +introduction of the ambassadors, a silk curtain concealed the person +of his majesty from them, until the moment of their departure, when +the royal foot was graciously put forth from under the veil, and +reverence was done to it as a "holy thing." From this statement it +appears that the pope of Rome is not the only person, whose foot is +treated as a "holy thing;" there is not, however, any information +extant, that the Portuguese ambassadors kissed the great toe of the +African prince, and therefore the superiority of the pope in this +instance is at once decided. The statement, however, of the +Portuguese ambassadors excited greatly the curiosity of the court on +their return, and it was immediately surmised by them, that this +mysterious potentate was more likely to be Prester John, than any +person whom they had yet heard of. It must, however, be remarked, +that it was a subject of great doubt and discussion to determine who +this Ogane really was. + +Although in possession of the extensive coast of Africa, the +Portuguese had, as yet, no declared title to it, for that purpose, +therefore, they appealed to religion or rather the superstition of +the age. It was a maxim, which the bigots of the Vatican had +endeavoured strongly to inculcate, that whatever country was +conquered from infidel nations, became the property of the victors. +This title was, however, not completed until it was confirmed by a +special grant obtained from the pope, and accordingly the reigning +monarch of Portugal, John II., obtained the grant of all the lands +from Cape Bojador to the Indies inclusive. Robertson, speaking of +this grant, says, "extravagant as this donation, comprehending such a +large portion of the habitable globe, would now appear even in +catholic countries, no person in the fifteenth century doubted but +that the pope, in the plenitude of his apostolic power, had a right +to confer it." + +The grant was no sooner confirmed by the pope, than John hesitated +not a moment to style himself Lord of Guinea, giving his commanders, +at the same time, instructions that, instead of the wooden crosses, +which it had hitherto been the custom to erect in token of conquest, +pillars of stone should be raised twice the stature of a man, with +proper inscriptions, and the whole surmounted by a crucifix inlaid +with lead. The first, who sailed from Elmina, for the purpose of +planting these ensigns of dominion in regions yet undiscovered was +Diego Cam, in 1484. After passing Cape St. Catherine, he encountered +a very strong current setting direct from the land, which was still +at a considerable distance; on tasting the water, however, it was +found to be fresh, from which the conjecture was drawn, that he was +at the mouth of some great river, which ultimately turned out to be +the fact. This river has since been celebrated under the name of the +Congo, or the Zaire, lying in latitude 8° south, and longitude 13° +east. On reaching the southern bank of the river, Diego planted his +first pillar, after which he ascended its borders, and opened a +communication with the natives by means of signs. His first inquiry +was respecting the residence of their sovereign, and, on receiving +the information, that he resided at the distance of several days +journey inland, he determined to send a number of his men with +presents for the prince, the natives undertaking to be the guides, +and pledging themselves, within a stipulated period, to conduct them +back again. As the natives meantime passed and repassed on the most +intimate footing, Diego took the advantage of a moment, when several +of the principal persons were on board his ship, weighed anchor and +put to themselves as good and _bona fide_ Christians, as any of the +revered men, who had been sent out to instruct them. The early +missionaries, however, committed the same fault, which has +distinguished the labours of those of later periods, for they +immediately began attack one of the most venerated institutions of +the realm of Congo which was polygamy; and to the aged monarch the +privation of his wives appeared so intolerable, that he renounced the +Christian faith, and relapsed into all the impurities of paganism and +polygamy. The heir apparent, however, saw nothing so very dreadful in +the sacrifice of his wives, and braving the displeasure of his +father, remained attached to the Portuguese. The holy fathers managed +their business on this occasion with that skill, for which the cowled +tribe have ever been distinguished, and by the aid of the Apostle St. +James, and a numerous cavalry of angels, the old king died, and +Alphonso, the zealous convert, became entitled to reign. His +brother, however, Panso Aquitimo, supported by the nobles and almost +the whole nation, raised the standard of revolt, in support of +polygamy and paganism. A civil war ensued, which is generally the +attendant upon the proselytism of a people, and Alphonso had only a +handful of Portuguese to oppose to the almost innumerable host of his +countrymen; but the holy fathers again applied to their auxiliaries, +and in consequence of apparitions in the clouds, at one time of St. +James, and another of the Virgin Mary, Alphonso always came off +victorious, and as he thereby became firmly seated on the throne, the +missionaries secured for themselves a safe and comfortable +establishment at Congo. The following account of the conduct of these +missionaries, as it is given in the Edinburgh Cabinet Library, cannot +fail to afford a considerable degree of entertainment, at the same +time, it is much to be deplored, that men engaged in so sacred a +cause, "could play such fantastic tricks before high heaven," and +disgrace the doctrine, which they meant to teach. + +Being reinforced by successive bodies of their brethren, the +missionaries spread over the neighbouring countries of Lundi, Pango, +Concobella and Maopongo, many tracts of which were rich and populous, +although the state of society was extremely rude. Everywhere their +career was nearly similar; the people gave them the most cordial +reception, flocked in crowds to witness and to share in the pomp of +their ceremonies; accepted with thankfulness their sacred gifts, and +received by thousands the rite of baptism. They were not, however, on +this account prepared to renounce their ancient habits and +superstitions. The inquisition, that _chef d'ouvre_ of sacerdotal +guilt, was speedily introduced into their domestic arrangements, and, +as was naturally to be supposed, caused a sudden revulsion, on which +account the missionaries thenceforth maintained only a precarious and +even a perilous position. They were much reproached, it appears, for +the rough and violent methods employed to effect their pious +purposes, and although they treat the accusation as most unjust, some +of the proceedings, of which they boast with the greatest +satisfaction, tend not a little to countenance the charge. When, for +example, they could not persuade the people to renounce their +superstitions, they used a large staff, with which they threw down +their idols and beat them to pieces; they even stole secretly into +the temples, and set them on fire. A missionary at Maopongo, having +met one of the queens, and finding her mind inaccessible to all his +instructions, determined to use sharper remedies, and seizing a +whip, began to apply it lustily to her majesty's person: the effect +he describes as most auspicious; every successful blow opened her +eyes more and more to the truth, and she at last declared herself +wholly unable to resist such forcible arguments in favour of the +catholic doctrine. She, however, hastened to the king, with loud +complaints respecting this mode of mental illumination; and the +missionaries thenceforth lost all favour with that prince and the +ladies of his court, being allowed to remain solely in dread of the +Portuguese. In only one other instance were they allowed to employ +this mode of conversion. The smith, in consequence of the skill, +strange in the eyes of a rude people, with which he manufactured +various arms and implements, was supposed to possess a measure of +superhuman power, and he had thus been encouraged to advance +pretensions to the character of a divinity, which were very generally +admitted. The missionaries appealed to the king, respecting this +impious assumption, and that prince conceiving that it interfered +with the respect due to himself, agreed to deliver into their hands +the unfortunate smith, to be converted into a mortal in any manner +they might judge efficacious. After a short and unsuccessful +argument, they had recourse to the same potent instrument of +conversion, as they had applied to the back of the queen. The son of +Vulcan, deserted in this extremity by all his votaries, still made a +firm stand for his celestial dignity, till the blood began to stream +from his back and shoulders, when he finally yielded, and renounced +all pretensions to a divine origin. + +A more intimate acquaintance discovered other irregularities amongst +the natives, against which a painful struggle was to be maintained. +According to the custom of the country, and it were well if the same +custom could be introduced into some particular parts of Europe, the +two parties, previously to marriage, lived together for some time, in +order to make a trial of each other's tempers and inclinations, +before entering into the final arrangement. To this system of +probation, the natives were most obstinately attached, and the +missionaries in vain denounced it, calling upon them at once either +to marry or to separate. The young ladies were always the most +anxious to have the full benefit of this experimental process; and +the mothers, on being referred to, refused to incur any +responsibility, and expose themselves to the reproaches of their +daughters, by urging them to an abridgment of the trial, of which +they might afterwards repent. The missionaries seem to have been most +diligent in the task, as they called it, of "reducing strayed souls +to matrimony." Father Benedict succeeded with no fewer than six +hundred, but he found it such "laborious work," that he fell sick and +died. Another subject of deep regret, respecting the many +superstitious practices still prevalent, even among those who +exhibited some sort of Christian profession, was, that sometimes the +children, brought for baptism, were bound with magic cords, to which +the mothers, as an additional security from evil, had fastened beads, +relics, and figures of the Agnus Dei. It was a compound of paganism +and Christianity, which the priests turned away from with disgust; +but still the mothers seemed more inclined to part with the beads, +relics, and figures of the Agnus Dei, than their magic cords. The +chiefs, in like manner, while they testified no repugnance to avail +themselves of the protection promised from the wearing of crucifixes +and images of the Virgin, were unprepared to part with the enchanted +rings and other pagan amulets with which they had been accustomed to +form a panoply round their persons. In case of dangerous illness, +sorcery had been always contemplated as the main or sole remedy, and +those who rejected its use were reproached, as rather allowing their +sick relations to die, than incur the expense of a conjuror. But the +most general and pernicious application of magic was made in judicial +proceedings: when a charge was advanced against any individual, no +one ever thought of inquiring into the facts, or of collecting +evidence--every case was decided by preternatural tests. The +magicians prepared a beverage, which produced on the guilty person, +according to the measure of his iniquity, spasm, fainting, or death, +but left the innocent quite free from harm. It seems a sound +conclusion of the missionaries, that the draught was modified +according to the good or ill will of the magicians, or the liberality +of the supposed culprit. The trial called Bolungo, was indeed +renounced by the king, but only to substitute another, in which the +accused was made to bend over a large basin of water, when, if he +fell in, it was concluded that he was guilty. At other times, a bar +of red hot iron was passed along the leg, or the arm was thrust into +scalding water, and if the natural effect followed, the person's head +was immediately struck off. Snail shells, applied to the temples, if +they stuck, inferred guilt. When a dispute arose between man and man, +the plan was, to place shells on the heads of both, and make them +stoop, when he, from off whose head the shell first dropped, had a +verdict found against him. While we wonder at the deplorable +ignorance on which these practices were founded, we must not forget +that "the judgments of God," as they were termed, employed by our +ancestors, during the middle ages, were founded on the same +unenlightened views, and were in some cases absolutely identical. + +Other powers, of still higher name, held sway over the deluded minds +of the people of Congo. Some ladies of rank went about beating a +drum, with dishevelled hair, and pretended to work magical cures. +There was also a race of mighty conjurors, called Scingilli, who had +the power of giving and withdrawing rain at pleasure; and they had a +king called Ganja Chitorne, or God of the earth, to whom its first +fruits were regularly offered. This person never died, but when tired +of his sway on earth, he nominated a successor, and killed himself; +a step, doubtless, prompted by the zeal of his followers, when they +saw any danger of his reputation for immortality being compromised. +This class argued strongly in favour of their vocation, as not only +useful, but absolutely essential, since without it the earth would be +deprived of those influences, by which alone it was enabled to +minister to the wants of man. The people accordingly viewed, with the +deepest alarm, any idea of giving offence to beings, whose wrath +might be displayed in devoting the land to utter sterility. + +We cannot trace any record, stating the period or the manner in which +the Portuguese and their officious missionaries were expelled from +Congo; it is, however, supposed that they at length carried their +religious innovations to such a length, as to draw down upon them the +vengeance of the people, and that some bold and decisive steps were +taken to liberate the country from its usurpers. It is, however, +certain, that Capt. Tucky, in his late expedition, did not find a +single trace of either the Portuguese or their missionaries on the +banks of the Zaire. + +The traveller has ever found much greater difficulty in making +discoveries in Mahometan than in Gentoo or Pagan countries, and from +this cause the great continent of Africa is much less known to +Europeans than it was in ancient times. Until the present age, and a +very recent part of it, our knowledge of that immense portion of the +globe extended but very little way from the coast, and its +enterprises have made great advances to a knowledge of that interior +before unexplored. The design of examining on land Africa, to find +out the manners, habits, and institutions of its men, the state of +the country, its commercial capabilities in themselves, and relative +to this country, formed the African Association. From the liberal +sentiments, knowledge, and comprehensive views of that society, were +the courage and enterprise of adventurers stimulated to particular +undertakings of discovery. + + + +CHAPTER II. + +We are now arrived at the period when England, aroused by the +commercial advantages, which Portugal was deriving from her African +possessions, determined, in defiance of the pope of Rome and "the +Lords of Guinea," to participate in the treasures, and to form her +own settlements on the African coast, although it must be admitted, +that one of the motives by which the English merchants were actuated, +was not founded on humanity or patriotism. The glorious and splendid +results, which had arisen from the discovery of the East and West +Indies, caused the ocean to be generally viewed as the grand theatre +where wealth and glory were to be gained. The cultivation of the West +India Islands by the labour of Europeans, was found to be a task +almost impracticable, and the attention was thence drawn to discover +a source, from which manual labour could be obtained, adapted to the +climate, and this resource was soon found in the black population of +Africa. It is not to be doubted, that many of our African settlements +were formed for the purpose of procuring a supply of slaves, for the +West India possessions, at the same time, the attention of others was +excited by a far more innocent and brilliant prospect. It was in the +beginning of the seventeenth century, that an unbounded spirit of +enterprise appears to have been excited amongst the British +merchants, by vague reports of an Africa _El Dorado_. The most +flattering reports had reached Europe, of the magnitude of the gold +trade carried on at Timbuctoo, and along the course of the Niger; +despatches were even received from Morocco, representing its +treasures, as surpassing those of Mexico and Peru, and in 1618, a +company was formed in London, for the express purpose of penetrating +to the country of gold, and to Timbuctoo. Exaggeration stepped in to +inflame the minds of the speculators, with the enormous wealth which +awaited them in the interior of Africa. The roofs of the houses were +represented to be covered with plates of gold, that the bottoms of +the rivers glistened with the precious metal, and the mountains had +only to be excavated, to yield a profusion of the metallic treasure. +From the northern part of Africa, impediments of almost an +insuperable nature presented themselves, to the attainment of these +great advantages; immense deserts, as yet unexplored by human foot, +and the knowledge of the existence of tribes of barbarous people on +the borders of them, were in themselves sufficient to daunt the +spirit of adventure in those quarters, and ultimately drew the +attention to the discovery of another channel, by which the golden +treasures of Timbuctoo could be reached, without encountering the +appalling dangers of the deserts, or the murderous intentions of the +natives. + +The existence of the great river Niger, had been established by the +concurrent testimony of all navigators, but of its course or origin, +not the slightest information had been received. The circumstance of +its waters flowing from the eastward, gave rise to the conjecture, +that they flowed through the interior of the continent, and emptied +themselves either by the Senegal or the Gambia, into the Atlantic. It +was, therefore, considered probable, that by ascending the Senegal or +the Gambia, which were supposed to be merely tributary streams of the +Niger, of which they formed the estuary, that Timbuctoo and the +country of gold might be reached; and so strongly was this opinion +impressed upon the minds of the merchants, and other adventurers, +that a journey to Timbuctoo became the leading project of the day, +and measures were accordingly taken to carry it into execution. + +The first person sent out by the company established for exploring +the Gambia, was Richard Thompson, a Barbary merchant, a man of some +talent and enterprise, who sailed from the Thames in the Catherine, +of 120 tons, with a cargo valued at nearly two thousand pounds +sterling. The expedition of Thompson was unfortunate in the extreme, +but the accounts received of his adventures and death, have been +differently recited. It is certain, that Thompson ascended the Gambia +as far as Tenda, a point much beyond what any European had before +reached, and according to one account, he was here attacked by the +Portuguese, who succeeded in making a general massacre of the +English. Another account states, that he was killed in an affray with +his own people, and thence has been styled the first martyr, or more +properly the first victim in the cause of African discovery. + +The company, however, nothing daunted by the ill success of Thompson, +despatched another expedition on a larger scale, consisting of the +Sion of 200 tons, and the St. John of 50, giving the command to +Richard Jobson, to whom we are indebted for the first satisfactory +account of the great river districts of western Africa. + +Jobson arrived in the Gambia, in November, 1620, and left his ship at +Cassau, a town situate on the banks of that river. Here, however, his +progress was impeded by the machinations of the Portuguese, and so +great was the dread of the few persons belonging to that nation, who +remained at Cassan after the massacre of Thompson, that scarcely one +could be found, who would take upon himself the office of a pilot to +conduct his vessel higher up the river. In this extremity he had no +other resource than to take to his boats, but, on ascending the +river, he found his merchandise in comparatively little request, and +repented that he had not laden his boats with salt. He soon +afterwards met with Brewer, who had accompanied Thompson to Tenda, +and remained with the English factory established up the river. He +also filled Jobson with "golden hopes." Wherever the English stopped, +the negro kings, with their wives and daughters, came down to the +river side to buy, or rather to beg for trinkets, and still more for +brandy. They also showed themselves by no means ignorant of the art +of stealing, but their thefts were, in some degree, obliged to be +winked at, for fear of offending the royal personages, and drawing +down upon themselves the secret vengeance of the uncivilized hordes. +On Christmas day Tirambra, a negro prince, a great friend of the +English, sent them a load of elephant's flesh, which was accepted +with tokens of the greatest respect and gratitude, although the whole +gift was secretly thrown away. + +After a navigation in boats of nearly thirty days, Jobson reached the +rapids of Barraconda, the highest point to where the tide flows, and +where he found himself involved in great difficulties. The ascent was +to be made against a current running with the greatest rapidity; the +great number of hidden rocks made it dangerous to pursue their course +during the night, the same time, that in attempting to avoid the +rocks, they struck upon sand banks and shallows, which often obliged +the crew to strip and go into the water, for the purpose of clearing +the boats from the sands. In the performance, however, of this task, +the greatest danger was run from the vast number of crocodiles, that +infested the river, and which, in several instances, seemed to be in +waiting for any prey with which the boats could supply them. The +river was also filled with "a world of sea-horses, whose paths, as +they came on shore to feed, were beaten with tracts as large as a +London highway." The land on either side of the river was covered +with immense forests of unknown trees, which appeared to team with +living things, feathered and quadruped, making a roar sometimes, +which was sufficient to instil terror into the stoutest heart. +Amongst the latter, the baboons appeared to hold the sovereignty of +the woods, and whenever the navigation of the river obliged the +travellers to keep close in shore, where the banks were covered with +trees; the baboons posted themselves on the branches, and kept up a +regular attack upon the navigators, throwing at them the largest +branches, which they could break from the trees, and apparently +holding a palaver with each other, as to the best mode of prosecuting +the attack against the lawless intruders into their territory. They +appeared actually to be aware when a branch hit one of the +navigators, for they immediately up a shout of triumph, screaming +hideously, and "grinning ghastly a horrible smile," as if expressive +of their victory. The voices of the crocodiles calling, as it were, +to each other, resembling the sound "of a deep well," might be heard +at the distance of a league, whilst the elephants were seen in huge +hordes, raising their trunks in the air, and snorting defiance to all +who dared approach them. The latter are objects of great fear to the +natives, scarcely one of whom dare approach them, but they appeared +to have an instinctive sense of the superiority of the English, for +they no sooner made a movement against them, than they hurried away +with the speed of the forest deer, and were soon lost in the depths +of their native forests. Three balls were lodged in one of the +animals, but he made off with them; he was, however, soon after found +dead by the negroes. The most formidable animals, however, were the +lions, ounces, and leopards, which were seen at some distance, but +the sailors could not obtain a shot at them. At one of their halting +places, the baboons appeared like an army consisting of several +thousands, some of the tallest placed in front, marshalled under the +guidance of a leader, the smaller ones being in the middle, and the +rear brought up by the larger ones. The sailors showed some +disposition to enter into an acquaintance with the leader of the +army, but the desire was by no means mutual, for nature has very +kindly infused into the hearts of these creatures a strong distrust +in the friendly advances of their brother bipeds, knowing them to be, +in many of their actions, false, hollow, and deceitful, a proof of +which, one of the leaders of the army received in a very striking and +forcible manner, in the shape of a bullet, which passed directly +through his body. The baboons were, however, determined that their +treacherous friends should not obtain possession of the body of their +murdered leader, for before the sailors could arrive at the spot +where the deceased general lay, his indignant and patriotic +companions had carried his body away. On following these creatures to +their haunts in the recessess of the forest, places were found, where +the branches had been so intertwined, and the ground beaten so +smoothly, as to make it rather difficult to believe that the labour +had not been accomplished by human hands. + +On the 26th of January, Jobson arrived at Tenda, and he immediately +despatched a messenger to Buckar Sano, the chief merchant on the +Gambia, who soon after arrived with a stock of provisions, which he +disposed of at reasonable prices. In return for the promptitude, with +which Buckar Sano had replied to his message, Jobson treated him with +the greatest hospitality, placing before him the brandy bottle as the +most important object of the entertainment. Buckar Sano seemed by no +means unwilling to consider it in that character, for he paid so many +visitations to it that he became so intoxicated, that he lay during +the whole of the night dead drunk in the boat. Buckar Sano, however, +showed by his subsequent conduct, that drunkenness was not a vice, to +which he was naturally addicted, and that the strength of the spirit +had crept upon him, before he was aware of the consequences that were +likely to ensue. On any subsequent occasion, when the brandy bottle +was tendered to him, he would take a glass, but on being pressed to +repeat it, he would shake his head with apparent tokens of disgust; +after the exchange of some presents, and many ridiculous ceremonies, +Buckar Sano was proclaimed the white man's alchade, or mercantile +agent. Jobson had, however, some reason to doubt his good faith, from +the accounts which he gave of a city four months journey in the +interior, the roofs of the houses of which were covered with sheets +of gold. It must, however, be considered, in exculpation of the +supposed exaggerated accounts of Buckar Sano, that the Europeans at +that time possessed a very circumscribed knowledge of the extent of +the interior of Africa, and that a four months journey, to a +particular city, would not be looked upon at the time as +transgressing the bounds of truth. It is most probable that Buckar +Sano alluded to Timbuctoo, a place that has given rise to more +extraordinary conjectures, and respecting which, more fabulous +stories have been told than of Babylon, or of Carthage of ancient +history. + +The circumstance of a vessel having arrived in the river for the +purpose of traffic, caused a strong sensation throughout the country, +and the natives flocked from all the neighbouring districts, anxious +not only to obtain a sight of the white men, but to commence their +commercial dealings. They erected their huts on the banks of the +river, which in a short time resembled a village, and for the first +time, the busy hum of trade was heard in the interior of Africa. The +natives, with whom Jobson commenced his commercial dealings, appeared +to possess some traces of civilization, nor were they deficient in +many of the arts, which are known amongst the civilized nations, and +which, even at that time, were with them but in their infancy. + +To these people, however, succeeded a different race of visitors, +far more rude and uncivilized, whose bodies were covered with skins +of wild animals, the tails hanging as from the beasts. The men of +this race had never seen a white man before, and so great was their +fear, when Jobson presented himself amongst them, that they all ran +away, and stationed themselves at some distance from the river. They +were, however, soon tempted back again, at the sight of a few beads, +and the most friendly relations were afterwards established between +them. + +Jobson found that in Tenda, as elsewhere, salt was the article +chiefly in demand, but he had unfortunately omitted to provide +himself with any great quantity of that article. Iron wares met with +a ready sale, though these were supplied at a cheaper rate by a +neighbouring people. The sword-blade of Buckar Sano, and the brass +bracelets of his wife, appeared to Jobson to be specimens of as good +workmanship as could be seen in England. Jobson, from very +prudential motives, abstained from mentioning gold; but Buckar Sano, +who knew perhaps what Europeans most coveted, told him, that if he +continued to trade with Tenda, he could dispose of all his cargoes +for gold. The negro merchant affirmed, that he had been four times at +a town in which the houses were all covered with gold, and distant a +journey of four moons. Jobson was informed that six days journey from +St. John's Mart, the name which he gave to the factory at Tenda, was +a town called Mombar, where there was much trade for gold. Three +stages farther was Jaye, whence the gold came. Some of the native +merchants, finding that Jobson had not any salt with him, refused to +enter into any commercial dealings with him, and returned highly +dissatisfied. For the commodities which he did dispose of, he +obtained, in exchange, gold and ivory; he could have obtained hides +in abundance, but they were too bulky a commodity to bear the expense +of conveyance. + +Jobson wisely adapted his carriage to the negro customs; he danced +and sung with the natives, and entered with a proper spirit into all +their entertainments. He remarks, that the water of the Gambia above +Barraconda has such a strong scent of musk, from the multitude of +crocodiles, that infest that part of the river, as to be unfit for +use. The torpedo also abounds in the river about Cassan, and at first +caused not a little terror and amazement to the crew. + +Amongst other acts of kindness, which Buckar Sano showed to the +Englishman, he offered to introduce him at the court of Tenda. This, +in a commercial point of view, was an advantage not to be overlooked, +independently of the knowledge, which he would acquire of the +internal geography of the country. On reaching the king's presence, +an example was witnessed of the debasing homage, which is usually +paid to negro princes, and of which some striking examples will be +given in the journey of Clapperton. The great and wealthy merchant, +on appearing in the presence of the king, first fell on his knees, +and then throwing off his shirt, extended himself naked and flat on +the ground, whilst his attendants almost buried him beneath dust and +mud; after grovelling like a beast for some time in this position, he +suddenly started up, shook off the mud from him, in which operation +he was assisted by two of his wives, who then assisted him in +equipping himself in his best attire, with his bow and quiver, and +all the other paraphernalia of a person of rank and consequence. He +and his attendants, after having made a semblance of shooting at +Jobson, laid their bows at his feet, which was understood to be a +token of homage. The king even assured the English captain, that the +country, and every thing in it, were then placed at his disposal, +"which bounty, observes Jobson, could require no less than two or +three bottles of my best brandy, although the English were not +sixpence the better for the grant." + +The dry season had now commenced, and Jobson observed that the waters +of the river were gradually sinking lower and lower; but the city, +the roofs of which were plates of gold, haunted the busy fancy of +Jobson, and he used every endeavour to ascend the river, in order +that he might discover the sources from which the plates of gold were +made. It was evident to him, that Buckar Sano had either practised an +imposition upon him, or that he had grossly exaggerated the treasures +of the wonderful city; but in regard to the former, he could not +divine any motive by which Buckar Sano could be actuated in imposing +upon him; and in regard to the latter, making every allowance for +exaggeration, it might eventually transpire, that the country +abounded with the precious metal, although perhaps not exactly in the +extraordinary degree as reported by Buckar Sano. After encountering +many difficulties, he was obliged to relinquish the farther ascent of +the river, nor did he even reach the point where the previous +discoveries of Thompson terminated, which may be considered as the +utmost boundary of the discoveries of that period; indeed many years +elapsed before any travellers passed the limits at which Thompson or +Jobson had arrived. The latter gives a strange report, which, +however, was in some degree partially circulated before him, of a +silent traffic being carried on in the interior between the moors and +a negro nation, who would not allow themselves to be seen. "The +reason," he adds, "why these negroes conceal themselves, is, that +they have lips of an unnatural size, hanging down halfway over their +breasts, and which they are obliged to rub with salt continually, to +keep them from putrefaction." Thus even the great salt trade of the +interior of Africa is not wholly untinged with fable. + +The stream became at last so shallow, that Jobson could not ascend +any farther, and he began his voyage downwards on the 10th February, +intending to return at the season when the periodical rains filled +the channel. He was, however, never able to execute this purpose, as +he and the company became involved in a quarrel with the merchants, +whom he visits with his highest displeasure, representing them as +persons alive only to their own immediate interests, and utterly +regardless of any of those honourable motives with which all +commercial dealings ought to be characterised. + +Jobson may be said to have been the first Englishman, who enjoyed the +opportunity of observing the manners and superstitions peculiar to +the interior of Africa, but that must be taken as only within the +narrow limits to which the discoveries at that period extended. He +found that the chiefs of the different nations were attended by bands +of musicians, to whom he gives the appellation of juddies or +fiddlers, and compares them to the Irish rhymsters, or, as we should +now compare them, to the Italian improvisatori. By some other authors +they are called jelle, or jillemen; the instruments on which they +perform being rudely made of wood, having a sonorous sound, on +account of its extreme hardness, and in some instances they exhibit +the knowledge of the power of an extended string, by fastening a +piece of the gut of an animal across a plane of wood, and beating on +it with a stick. Like the majority of the musicians of the ruder +tribes, the excellence of their music depends on the noise which is +made, and if it be so obstreperous, as almost to deafen the auditors, +the greater is the pleasure which is shown. + +These wandering minstrels are frequently attended by the Greegree +men, or sorcerers, who, on account of the fantastic dress which they +wear, form a most motley group; the Greegree men, trying to outvie +each other in the hideous and fantastic style of their dress, and the +more frightful they make themselves appear, the greater they believe +is the effect of their sorcery. The principal festivals are those of +circumcision and of funeral. Whenever former ceremony is performed, a +vast concourse of people are attracted, from every part of the +country, the operator being generally a Greegree man, who pretends to +determine the future fate of the individual, in the manner by which +the operation is performed, but which is always declared to be highly +prosperous, if a liberal present has been made. During the +performance of the ceremony, the forests appear in a blaze, the most +discordant shouts rending the air, intermixed with the sounds of +their instruments, composing altogether a tumult, which is heard at +the distance of many leagues. The dancing is described as of the most +ludicrous kind, marked by those indecencies, which generally +distinguish the amusements of the savage tribes. In these sports, the +women are always the foremost in the violence of their gestures; the +young ones selecting the objects of their affection, to bestow upon +them some token of their attachment. + +The funeral of their chiefs is a ceremony of great solemnity, and in +some of its forms has a strong resemblance to an Irish wake. Flowers +of the most odorous scent are buried with the corpse, which is also +supplied with a considerable quantity of gold, to assist him on his +entrance into the other world, where it is believed, that the degree +of happiness, is proportionate to the quantity of gold which the +deceased has in his possession. It must, however, be mentioned, that +the natives of this part of Africa, appear to be wholly exempt from +the stigma, which belongs to some of the other tribes of Africa, +in the human victims which are sacrificed at the funerals of their +kings or chiefs, and which in some cases amount to three or four +hundred. The funerals of the kings of Tenda are conducted with a +decorum highly creditable to the people, considering their +uncivilised state; and the graves are frequently visited by the +relatives of the deceased, to repair any injury, which they may have +sustained from the violence of the rains, or the attacks of +carnivorous animals. + +At all the festivals, a personage called Horey, or which Jobson calls +the devil, acts a most conspicuous part, at the same time, that he +generally carries on his operations in secret, impressing thereby on +the minds of the natives, an idea of his invisibility. The Horey +generally takes his station in the adjoining woods, whence he sends +forth the most tremendous sounds, supposed to have a very malignant +influence on all those who happen to be within hearing. It is, +however, a fortunate circumstance for the native, who is so +unfortunate as to be within hearing of the Horey's cries, that the +method is known, of appeasing the vindictive spirit of the Horey, +which is, by placing a quantity of provisions, in the immediate +vicinity of the place where his roaring is heard; and if on the +following day the provisions have disappeared, which is sure to be +the case, the natives are then satisfied that the Horey has been +appeased, which, however, lasts only for a short time, for as the +appetite of the Horey is certain to return, his cries are again +heard, and the provisions are again deposited for his satisfaction. + +In regard to this Horey or devil, rather a ludicrous story is told by +Jobson, who, being in company with a Marabout, and hearing the Horey +in full cry in a neighbouring thicket, seized a loaded musket, +declaring his resolution aloud, to discharge the contents without any +further ceremony, at his infernal majesty. Dreading the consequences, +which might befal the whole nation, were the devil to be killed, the +Marabout implored Jobson to desist from his murderous design; on a +sudden, the hoarse roar of the Horey was changed into a low and +plaintive sound, expressive of an individual imploring mercy from his +destroyer;--again Jobson levelled his gun at the spot whence the +sound issued, when on a sudden, his infernal majesty presented +himself in the shape of a huge negro, bloated with fat, and who now +lay on the ground, his devilish spirit quelled, and apparently in +such an agony of fear, as to be unable to sue for the mercy of the +avenging Englishman, who stood laughing over him, at the idea of +having so easily vanquished an African devil. + +The dissensions, which took place amongst the company, on the return +of Jobson, put an end for a time to all further discoveries. It was +evident that these divisions in the company, arose from a spirit of +jealousy amongst certain members of it, who had formed amongst +themselves certain schemes of personal aggrandizement, and were +therefore unwilling to despatch any one into those quarters, in which +such abundant sources presented themselves, of amassing inexhaustible +riches. + +The next attempt was made by Vermuyden, an opulent merchant, on the +Gambia, about the year 1660 or 1665, who equipped a boat abundantly +stored with bacon, beef, biscuit, rice, strong waters, and other +comfortable supplies, the weight of which, however, was so great, +that on arriving at the flats and shallows, the vessel could not +proceed on her voyage without the greatest danger. After navigating +the shallows for some time, he arrived at a broad expanse of water, +which he compared to Windermere Lake, and he now found himself on a +sudden entangled in a great difficulty, owing to a number of streams +flowing into this lake, and the consequent uncertainty which existed, +of choosing that particular one, which might be considered the main +branch or stream; and were he to ascend any other, he might find that +all his labours had been spent in vain, as it might lead him to a +quarter, at a great distance from those stations and towns, where the +Europeans had established their commercial settlements. "Up the +buffing stream," says Vermuyden, "with sad labour we wrought," and +when he had ascended further up the stream, the sailors were often +obliged to strip themselves naked, and get into the water. This was +found, however, to be a most dangerous experiment, for the crocodiles +and river horses showed themselves in fearful numbers, and fully +inclined to treat the intruders on their rightful domain, with the +most marked hostility. Vermuyden says, they were ill pleased, or +unacquainted with any companions in these watery regions, and at all +events, he was convinced that his men were not very proper companions +for them. So daring were the river horses, that one of them struck a +hole in the boat with his teeth, an accident which was rather of a +serious nature, as there was no one on board possessing any skill in +carpentry; and as one attack had been made, great apprehension was +entertained that it might be renewed, and the consequences prove of +the most fatal kind. They, however, fell upon the expedient of fixing +a lantern at the stern of the vessel, which kept the monsters at a +respectful distance; they showing great alarm at any light shining in +the dark. On one occasion, when they landed for the purpose of +searching for gold, they found the territory guarded by an incredible +number of huge baboons, who seemed determined to enter into open +conflict with them, and to set at defiance every attempt that was +made to penetrate into the territory. If the sailors shouted to them; +the baboons set up a loud scream, showing their white teeth, and +making known the reception which the intruders would meet with, if +they made any further advances. + +Finding that neither their oratory nor their menaces had any effect +upon the baboon army, a few guns were discharged at them, which +seemed rather to astonish them, for it was something which they had +never seen nor heard before; but as no immediate effect was visible +amongst their army, they began to consider the firing as a sort of +joke, and prepared to drive the invaders back to their boats. A +volley, however, from the human assailants, by which three of the +baboon army were laid prostrate, soon convinced the latter, that the +firing was no joke, and after making some slight show of resistance, +they carried away the dead, and retreated to the woods. + +The discovery of gold being the principal object of the adventure of +Vermuyden, he landed frequently in different places, and proceeded to +wash the sand, and examine the rocks. Vermuyden had acquired, in his +native country, some slight knowledge of alchymy, and he carried out +with him not only mercury, aqua regia, and large melting pots, but +also a divining rod, which, however, as was most likely the case, was +not found to exhibit any virtue. Vermuyden, however, was not to be +laughed out of his superstitious notions, although his companions +took every opportunity of turning his expectations into ridicule, but +he found a very plausible excuse for the impotency of his divining +rod in the discovery, that its qualities had all been dried up by the +heat of the climate, and that, under every circumstance, it was not +an instrument adapted to the country in which it was to be carried +into use. On one occasion, however, the virtue of the divining rod +appeared suddenly to have returned, for his eyes were gladdened with +the sight of a large mass of apparent gold; the delusion, however, +soon vanished, for, on examination, it was found to be nothing more +than common spar. According to his report, the metal is never met +with in low fertile and wooded spots, but always in naked and barren +hills, embedded in a reddish earth. At one place, after a labour of +twenty days, he succeeded in extracting twelve pounds, and, at +length, he asserts that he arrived at the mouth of the mine itself, +and saw gold in such abundance, as surprised him with joy and +admiration. It does not appear, however, that he returned from his +expedition considerably improved in his fortune by the discovery of +this mine, nor does he give any notice of the real position of it, by +which we are led to conjecture, that the discovery of the mine was +one of those fabrications, which the travellers of those times were +apt to indulge in, for the purpose of gratifying their own vanity, +and exciting the envy of their fellow countrymen. + +The spirit of African discovery began to revive in England about the +year 1720. At that time, the Duke of Chandos was governor of the +African company, and being concerned at the declining state of their +affairs, suggested the idea of retrieving them, by opening a path +into the golden regions, which were still reported to exist in the +central part of Africa. The company were not long in finding a person +competent to undertake the expedition, and, on the particular +recommendation of the duke, the appointment was given to Capt. +Bartholomew Stibbs. Being furnished with the requisite means for +sailing up the Gambia, Stibbs sailed in September, 1723, and, on the +7th of October, he arrived at James' Island, the English settlement, +situate about thirty miles from the mouth of the river, whence he +despatched a messenger to Mr. Willy, the governor, who happened at +that time to be visiting the factory at Joar, more than a hundred +miles distant, asking him to engage such vessels as were fit to +navigate the upper streams of the Gambia. To his great surprise and +mortification, however, he received an answer from Mr. Willy, that no +vessels of that kind were to be had, indeed, instead of using every +exertion to promote the cause for which Stibbs had been sent out by +the company, Willy appeared to throw every possible obstruction in +his way, as if he were actuated by a mean and petty spirit of +jealousy of the success, which was likely to await him. A few days, +however, after the answer of Willy had been received, a boat brought +down his dead body, he having fallen a victim to the fever of the +climate, which had previously affected his brain. Willy was succeeded +in the governorship by a person named Orfeur, who showed no immediate +objection to furnish the vessels and other articles necessary for the +expedition of Stibbs up the Gambia, but matters went on so slowly, +that the equipment was not completed until the middle of December, +when the season was fast approaching, which was highly unfavourable +for the accomplishment of the purpose, which Stibbs had in view. He +intended to proceed on his journey on the 24th of December, but a +slight accident, which happened to one of his boats, prevented his +departure on that day: from a superstitious idea that prevailed in +the mind of Stibbs, that success would not attend him, if he sailed +on the day celebrated as the nativity of Jesus Christ, he deferred +his journey to the 26th, when he departed with a crew consisting of +nineteen white men, a complete black one, although a Christian, and +who was to serve as an interpreter; twenty-nine Grumellas, or hired +negroes, with three female cooks; taking afterwards on board a +balafeu, or native musician, for the purpose of enlivening the +spirits of the party, and driving away the crocodiles, who are +superstitiously supposed to have a great dislike "to the concord of +sweet sounds," although emanating from the rude instrument of an +African musician. + +During the early part of the voyage every thing appeared to augur +well for the success of the expedition; the party were in high +spirits, and no accident of any moment had yet occurred to check the +joviality, which prevailed amongst the crew. The natives were every +where disposed to carry on trade, and, in some places, saphies or +charms were hung on the banks of the river to induce the white men to +come on shore. Stibbs had endeavoured to conceal the object, of his +journey, but he had formed his calculations upon an erroneous +principle, for he found himself at last pointed out as the person who +was come to bring down the gold. As they approached the falls of +Barraconda, the fears of the native crew began to manifest +themselves, and, as is usual with minds immersed in ignorance and +superstition, they commenced to foretell the most dreadful disasters, +if their captain should attempt to proceed above the falls of +Barraconda; numerous stories were now told of the fearful accidents, +which had happened to almost every person who had attempted to +navigate the river above the falls; the upsetting of a single canoe, +from unskilful management, was magnified into the loss of a hundred, +and of course not a single individual escaped a watery grave. The +natives expected that their terrible narratives would have a proper +influence upon the mind of their captain, and that he would, in +consequence, desist from prosecuting his journey beyond the falls, +but when, contrary to their expectations, he expressed his +determination to proceed to the utmost extent to which the river +would be found to be navigable, the natives presented themselves in +a body before him, and declared their firm determination not to +proceed any further, for, to the apparent surprise of Stibbs, they +informed him that Barraconda was the end of the world, and certainly +no person but a fool, or a madman, would attempt to penetrate any +further. Instances, certainly, they confessed had been known of +persons going beyond the end of the world, but then, as might be +naturally expected, they never were seen any more, being either +devoured by enormous beasts, or carried away into another world, by +some horrid devils, who were always on the watch to catch the +persons, who rejecting the advice, which they themselves were now +giving, were so fool hardy as to throw themselves in their power. +Stibbs now found himself in rather an unpleasant predicament, the +natives appeared resolute not to proceed beyond Barraconda, and Stibbs +knew well that it would be highly imprudent in him to proceed without +them. A palaver was held, and all the arguments which Stibbs could +bring forward, failed to produce the desired effect upon his alarmed +crew. He, however, suddenly bethought himself, that he had an +argument in his possession, of greater potency, than any that could +be afforded by the most persuasive arguments, and taking a bottle of +brandy from his chest, he gave to each man a glass of the spirit, +when, on a sudden, a very extraordinary change appeared to take place +in their opinions and sentiments. They might have been misled as to +Barraconda being the end of the world, and they did now remember some +instances of persons returning, who had been beyond the falls, and as +to the enormous animals, who were said to have devoured the voyagers; +they now believed that no other animals were meant than crocodiles +and river horses, which, although certainly formidable, were not by +any means such dreadful objects as to prevent them prosecuting their +voyage. Thus, what the powers of oratory could not effect, nor the +arguments of sound and deliberate reason accomplish, was achieved in +a moment by the administration of a small quantity of spirituous +liquid, giving bravery to the coward, and daring to the effeminate. + +They had now arrived at the dreaded boundary of the habitable world, +but the falls were not found to be nearly so formidable as they had +been represented; they bore rather the character of narrows than of +falls, the channel being confined by rocky ledges and fragments, +between which there was only one passage, where the canoes rubbed +against the rocks on each side. Contrary to the reports, which had +been in general circulation, of the dispositions of the natives of +the Upper Gambia, in which they were represented to be of a most +ferocious and savage nature, they were found to be a harmless, kind, +and good-humoured people, who, on every occasion, hastened to render +every assistance in their power to the navigators, making them +presents of fowls and provisions, and, in some instances, refusing to +take any thing in return for the articles which they gave away. + +The most laborious part of the journey now presented itself, which +consisted in the great exertions, which were necessary in order to +pass the flats and quicksands, which seemed to multiply as they +ascended the river, and which obliged the natives to strip and get +into the water, to drag the boats over the shallows by main force. +Although the natives had now ascertained beyond all further doubt, +that Barraconda was not the end of the world, yet, one part of their +story was fully verified, which was that relating to the enormous +animals, with which these desolate regions were tenanted. To the +present travellers, they appeared far more formidable than to their +predecessors, for the very elephants that had fled precipitately +before the crew of Jobson, struck the greatest terror into the party +of Stibbs; for one of them showed such a determined disposition to +exhibit the extent of his strength, that he turned suddenly upon the +crew, and in a very short time put the whole of them to flight. So +little did they show any symptoms of fear for the crew, that they +were frequently seen crossing the river in bands, at a very short +distance from the boats, throwing up the water with their trunks in +every direction, and raising such an emotion in the water, as to make +the boats rock about, to the great alarm of the crews, and +particularly the natives, who now began to wish, that they had not +been seduced by the potency of the spirituous liquid, to venture into +a region, where death presented itself to them, in the strict embrace +of an elephant's trunk, or bored to death by the teeth of the river +horse. In regard to the latter animal, the danger which they +incurred, was more imminent than with the elephants, but this did not +arise from the greater ferocity or savageness of the animal, for the +river horse moves in general in a sluggish and harmless manner; but +in the shallow places of the river, the horses were seen walking at +the bottom, and the space between them and the boat so small, that +the keel often came into collision with the back of the animal, who, +incensed at the affront offered to him, would be apt to strike a hole +through the boat with his huge teeth, and thereby endanger its +sinking. It was evident to the commander of the expedition, that the +courage of his native crew was almost paralyzed, when they had to +contend with any of these formidable creatures, although he had no +reason to complain of their exertions, in dragging the boats over the +flats and shallows, which appeared to abound in every part of the +river. + +It now became manifest to Stibbs, that he had chosen an unfavourable +time of the year for his expedition; for, after having spent two +months, he found himself on the 22nd February, only fifty-nine miles +above Barraconda, and at some distance from Tenda, consequently he +was not so successful as either Thompson or Jobson, notwithstanding +his means were more efficient, and adapted to the purpose. Stibbs, +however, expressed himself greatly disappointed with the results of +his expedition, and began to look upon the golden mines of Africa, +represented as they had been to be inexhaustible, as nothing more +than the grossest falsifications, made to suit some private purpose, +or to throw a certain degree of ridicule upon the plans and exertions +of the African company. He had been informed of a mighty channel, +which was to lead him into the remote interior of Africa, but he had +as yet only navigated a river, which in certain seasons is almost +dry, and where the crews were obliged to assume the character of the +amphibious; for at one time, they were obliged to be for hours in the +water, dragging the boats over the shallows, and at another, they +were on the land, dragging the boats over it, in order to surmount +the ledges of rocks, which extended from shore to shore. At one time +they were rowing over the backs of the river horses, and the next, +they ran the risk of being thrown upon their own back, by the trunks +of the elephants, or having them snapped in two between the jaws of +the crocodiles. + +The source of the great river, which, according to the description +then given of it, could not be any other than the Niger, was, +according to the opinion of Stibbs, "nothing near so far in the +country, as by the geographers has been represented." The river, +which he had navigated, did not answer in any degree with the +description which had been given of the Niger. The name was not even +known in the quarters through which he had passed; it did not flow +from any lake, that he could hear of, or which was known to any of +the natives, nor did it communicate with the Senegal, or any other +great river; and so far from it being a mighty stream in the +interior, the report was given to him by the natives, that at about +twelve days journey above Barraconda, it dwindled into a rivulet, so +small that the "fowls could walk over it." + +On the return of Stibbs to the company's settlement at the month of +the Gambia, these reports were received with great reluctance, and +the strongest doubts were thrown upon their authenticity. At that +time, a person of the name of Moore was the company's factor on the +Gambia; and in order to invalidate the statements of Stibbs, he +produced Herodotus, Leo, Edrisi, and other high authorities, whilst +on the other hand, Stibbs declared, that he had never heard of such +travellers before, and that he did not see why greater faith should +be put in their reports, than in his. + +Stibbs for some time supported the veracity of his statements, but +Moore and Herodotus at length prevailed, and Stibbs retired from the +service in disgust. There were, however, many strongly inclined to +attach implicit belief to the statements of Stibbs, at all events, +they had the direct tendency of preventing any other voyage being +undertaken for some time, for exploring that part of the African +continent. + +The first person who brought home any accounts of French Africa, was +Jannequin, a young man of some rank, who, as he was walking along the +quay at Dieppe, saw a vessel bound for this unknown continent, and +took a sudden fancy to embark and make the voyage. He was landed at a +part of the Sahara, near Cane Blanco. He was struck in an +extraordinary degree with the desolate aspect of the region. In +ascending the river, however, he was delighted with the brilliant +verdure of the banks, the majestic beauty of the trees, and the thick +impenetrable underwood. The natives received him hospitably, and he +was much struck by their strength and courage, decidedly surpassing +similar qualities in Europeans. He saw a moorish chief, called the +Kamalingo, who, mounting on horseback, and brandishing three javelins +and a cutlass, engaged a lion in single combat, and vanquished that +mighty king of the desert. Flat noses and thick lips, so remote from +his own ideas of the beautiful, were considered on the Senegal, as +forming the perfection of the human visage; nay, he even fancies that +they were produced by artificial means. Of actual discovery, little +transpired worthy of record in the travels of Jannequin, and his +enthusiasm became soon daunted by the perils which at every step +beset him. + + + +CHAPTER III. + +Nearly seventy years had elapsed, and the spirit of African discovery +had remained dormant, whilst in the mean time the remotest quarters +of the globe had been reached by British enterprise; the vast region +of Africa still remaining an unseemly blank in the map of the earth. +To a great and maritime nation as England then was, and to the cause +of the sciences in general, particularly that of geography, it was +considered as highly discreditable, that no step should be taken to +obtain a correct knowledge of the geographical situation of the +interior of Africa, from which continual reports arrived of the +existence of great commercial cities, and the advantages which the +Arabs derived from their intercourse with them. For the purpose of +promoting this great national undertaking, a small number of +highly-spirited individuals formed themselves into what was termed +the African Association, A sum of money was subscribed, and +individuals were sought for, who were qualified to undertake such +arduous and dangerous enterprises. Lord Rawdon, afterwards the +Marquess of Hastings, Sir Joseph Banks, the Bishop of Llandaff, Mr. +Beaufoy, and Mr. Stuart, were nominated managers. + +The first adventurer was Mr. Ledyard, who, from his earliest age, had +been a traveller from one extremity of the earth to the other. He had +circumnavigated the globe with Capt. Cook, had resided for several +years amongst the American indians, and had travelled with the most +scanty means from Stockholm round the Gulf of Bothnia, and thence to +the remotest parts of Asiatic Russia. On his return from his last +journey, Sir Joseph Banks was then just looking out for a person to +explore the interior of Africa, and Ledyard was no sooner introduced +to him, than he pronounced him to be the very man fitted for the +undertaking. Ledyard also declared that the scheme was in direct +unison with his own wishes, and on being asked how soon he could +depart, he answered, "Tomorrow." Some time, however, elapsed in +making the necessary arrangements, and a passage was shortly +afterwards obtained for him to Alexandria, with the view of first +proceeding southward from Cairo to Sennaar, and thence traversing the +entire breadth of the African continent. + +He arrived at Cairo on the 19th of August, 1788. His descriptions of +Egypt are bold and original, but somewhat fanciful. He represented +the Delta as an unbounded plain of excellent land miserably +cultivated; the villages as most wretched assemblages of poor mud +huts, full of dust, fleas, flies, and all the curses of Moses, and +the people as below the rank of any savages he ever saw, wearing only +a blue shirt and drawers, and tattooed as much as the South Sea +islanders. He recommends his correspondents, if they wish to see +Egyptian women, to look at any group of gypsies behind a hedge in +Essex. He describes the Mohammedans as a trading, enterprising, +superstitious, warlike set of vagabonds, who, wherever they are bent +upon going, will and do go; but he complains that the condition of a +Frank is rendered most humiliating and distressing by the furious +bigotry of the Turks; to him it seemed inconceivable that such enmity +should exist among men, and that beings of the same species should +trick and act in a manner so opposite. By conversing with the Jelabs, +or slave merchants, he learned a good deal respecting the caravan +routes and countries of the interior. Every thing seemed ready for +his departure, and he announced that his next communication would be +from Sennaar, but, on the contrary, the first tidings received were +those of his death. Some delays in the departure of the caravans, +acting upon his impatient spirit, brought on a bilious complaint, to +which he applied rash and violent remedies, and thus reduced himself +to a state, from which the care of Rosetti, the Venetian consul, and +the skill of the best physician of Cairo sought in vain to deliver +him. + +The society had, at the time they engaged Ledyard, entered into terms +with Mr. Lucas, a gentleman, who, being captured in his youth by a +Sallee rover, had been three years a slave at the court of Morocco, +and after his deliverance acted as vice-consul in that empire. Having +spent sixteen years there, he had acquired an intimate knowledge of +Africa and its languages. He was sent by way of Tripoli, with +instructions to accompany the caravan, which takes the most direct +route into the interior. Being provided with letters from the +Tripolitan ambassador, he obtained the Bey's permission, and even +promises of assistance for this expedition. At the same time he made +an arrangement with two sheerefs or descendants of the Prophet, whose +persons are held sacred, to join a caravan with which they intended +to travel. He proceeded with them to Mesuraba, but the Arabs there +being in a state of rebellion, refused to furnish camels and guides, +which, indeed, could scarcely be expected, as the Bey had declined to +grant them a safe conduct through his territories. Mr. Lucas was +therefore obliged to return to Tripoli, without being able to +penetrate further into the continent. He learned, however, from +Imhammed, one of the sheerefs, who had been an extensive traveller, a +variety of particulars respecting the interior regions. The society +had, at the same time, made very particular inquiries of Ben Ali, a +Morocco caravan trader, who happened to be in London. From these two +sources, Mr. Beaufoy was enabled to draw up a view of Centra. Africa, +very imperfect, indeed, yet superior to any that had ever before +appeared. + +According to the information thus obtained, Bornou and Kashna were +the most powerful states in that part of the continent, and formed +even empires, holding sway over a number of tributary kingdoms, a +statement which proved at that time to be correct, though affairs +have since greatly changed. The Kashna caravan often crossed the +Niger, and went onwards to great kingdoms behind the Gold Coast, +Gongah or Kong, Asiente or Ashantee, Yarba or Yarriba, through which +Clapperton afterwards travelled. Several extensive routes across the +desert were also delineated. In regard to the Niger, the report of +Imhammed revived the error, which represented that river as flowing +westward towards the Atlantic. The reason on which this opinion was +founded, will be evident, when we observe that it was in Kashna, that +Ben Ali considered himself as having crossed that river. His Niger, +therefore, was the Quarrama, or river of Zermie, which flows westward +through Kashna and Sackatoo, and is only a tributary to the Quorra or +great river, which we call the Niger. He describes the stream as very +broad and rapid, probably from having seen it during the rainy +season, when all the tropical rivers of any magnitude assume an +imposing appearance. + +Mr. Lucas made no further attempt to penetrate into Africa. The next +expedition was made by a new agent, and from a different route. Major +Houghton, who had resided for some years as consul at Morocco, and +afterwards in a military capacity at Goree, undertook the attempt to +reach the Niger by the route of Gambia, not, like Jobson and Stibbs, +ascending its stream in boats, but travelling singly and by land. He +seems to have been endowed with a gay, active, and sanguine spirit, +fitted to carry him through the boldest undertaking, but without that +cool and calculating temper necessary for him, who endeavours to make +his way amid scenes of peril and treachery. He began his journey +early in 1791, and soon reached Medina, the capital of Woolli, where +the venerable chief received him with extreme kindness, promised to +furnish guides, and assured him he might go to Timbuctoo with his +staff in his hand. The only evil that befell him at Medina, arose +from a fire that broke out there, and spreading rapidly through +buildings roofed with cane and matted grass, converted a town of a +thousand houses, in an hour, into a heap of ashes. Major Houghton ran +out with the rest of the people into the fields, saving only such +articles as could be carried with him. + +He mentions, that by trading at Fattatenda, a person may make 800 per +cent, and may live in plenty on ten pounds a year. Quitting the +Gambia, he took the road through Bambouk, and arrived at Ferbanna on +the Faleme. Here he was received with the most extraordinary kindness +by the king, who gave him a guide and money to defray his expenses. A +note was afterwards received from him, dated Simbing, which contained +merely these words: "Major Houghton's compliments to Dr. Laidley, is +in good health on his way to Timbuctoo; robbed of all his goods by +Fenda, Bucar's son." This was the last communication from him, for +soon after the negroes brought down to Pisania, the melancholy +tidings of his death, of which Mr. Park subsequently learned the +particulars. Some moors had persuaded the major to accompany them to +Tisheet, a place in the great desert, frequented on account of its +salt mines. In alluring him thither, their object, as it appears from +the result, was to rob him, for it was very much out of the direct +route to Timbuctoo. Of this in a few days he became sensible, and +insisted upon returning, but they would not permit him to leave their +party, until they had stripped him of every article in his +possession. He wandered about for some time through the desert, +without food or shelter, till at length quite exhausted, he sat down +under a tree and expired. Mr. Park was shown the very spot where his +remains wore abandoned to the fowls of the air. + +A considerable degree of information respecting the country on the +Senegal, was procured by a person of the name of Bruce, who had a +large share in the administration of the affairs of the French +African Companies. In one of his numerous journeys, he ascended the +Senegal as far as Gallam, and established a fort or factory at +Dramanet, a populous and commercial town. The inhabitants carried on +a trade as far as Timbuctoo, which they described as situated 500 +leagues in the interior. They imported from it gold and ivory, and +slaves from Bambarra, which was represented by them, as an extensive +region between Timbuctoo and Cassan, barren but very populous. The +kingdom of Cassan was said to be formed into a sort of island, or +rather peninsula, by the branches of the Senegal. Gold was so +abundant there, that the metal often appeared on the surface of the +ground. From these circumstances it may be concluded, that Cassan was +in some degree confounded with Bambouk, which borders it on the +south. It had long been the ambition of the French, to find access to +this golden country, but the jealousy of the native merchants +presented an obstacle, that could not be easily surmounted. + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +There is no Chapter IV as the following chapter was numbered +Chapter V by mistake. + + + +CHAPTER V. + +The death of Major Houghton left the African Association without a +single individual employed in the particular service, for which the +company was originally established. On a sudden, Mr. Mungo Park, a +native of Scotland, offered himself to the society, and the committee +having made such inquiries as they thought necessary, accepted him +for the service. + +His instructions were very plain and concise. He was directed, on his +arrival in Africa, to pass on to the river Niger, either by the way +of Bambouk, or by such other route as should be most convenient; that +he should ascertain the cause, and if possible, the rise and +termination of that river; that he should use his utmost exertion to +visit the principal towns or cities in its neighbourhood, +particularly Timbuctoo and Houssa, and that he should afterwards +return to Europe, by such route as, under the then existing +circumstances of his situation, should appear to him most advisable. + +He sailed from Portsmouth on the 22nd of May, 1793, and on the 4th +June, he saw the mountains over Mogadore, on the coast of Africa, and +on the 21st, after a pleasant voyage, he anchored at Jillifree, a +town on the northern bank of the Gambia, opposite to James' Island, +where the English had formerly a small fort. + +On the 23rd, he proceeded to Vintain, a town situated about two miles +up a creek, on the southern side of the river. Here he continued till +the 26th, when he continued his course up the river, which is deep +and muddy. The banks are covered with impenetrable thickets of +mangrove, and the whole of the adjacent country appears to be flat +and swampy. The Gambia abounds with fish, but none of them are known +in Europe. In six days after leaving Vintain, he reached Jonkakonda, +a place of considerable trade, where the vessel was to take in part +of her lading. The next morning the European traders came from their +different factories, to receive their letters, and learn the nature +and amount of the cargo; whilst the captain despatched a letter to +Dr. Laidley, with the information of Mr. Park's arrival. Dr. Laidley +came to Jonkakonda the morning following, when he delivered to him +Mr. Beaufoy's letter, when the doctor gave him a kind invitation to +spend his time at his house at Pisania, until an opportunity should +offer of prosecuting his journey. This invitation was too acceptable +to be refused. + +Pisania is a small village in the king of Yany's dominions, +established by British subjects, as a factory for trade, and +inhabited solely by them and their black servants. The white +residents at the time of Mr. Park's arrival, consisted only of Dr. +Laidley and two gentlemen of the name of Ainsley, but their domestics +were numerous. They enjoyed perfect security, and being highly +respected by the natives at large, wanted no accommodation the +country could supply, and the greatest part of the trade in slaves; +ivory, and gold was in their hands. + +Being settled in Pisania, Mr. Park's first object was to learn the +Mandingo tongue, being the language in almost general use throughout +this part of Africa, without which he was convinced he never could +acquire an extensive knowledge of the country or its inhabitants. In +this pursuit he was greatly assisted by Dr. Laidley, who had made +himself completely master of it. Next to the language, his great +object was to collect information concerning the countries he +intended to visit. On this occasion he was referred to certain +traders called slatees, who are black merchants of great +consideration in this part of Africa, who come from the interior +countries, chiefly with enslaved negroes for sale; but he discovered +that little dependence could be placed on the accounts they gave, as +they contradicted each other in the most important particulars, and +all seemed extremely unwilling he should prosecute his journey. + +In researches of this kind, and in observing the manners and customs +of the natives, in a country so little known to the nations of +Europe, and furnished with so many striking objects of nature, Mr. +Park's time passed not unpleasantly, and he began to flatter himself +that he had escaped the fever, to which Europeans, on their first +arrival in hot climates, are generally subject. But on the 31st July, +he imprudently exposed himself to the night dew, in observing an +eclipse of the moon, with a view to determine the longitude of the +place; the next day he found himself attacked with fever and +delirium, and an illness followed, which confined him to the house +the greater part of August. His recovery was very slow, but he +embraced every short interval of convalescence to walk out and +examine the productions of the country. In one of these excursions, +having rambled farther than usual in a hot day, he brought on a +return of his fever, and was again confined to his bed. The fever, +however, was not so violent as before, and in the course of three +weeks, when the weather permitted, he was able to renew his botanical +excursions; and when it rained, he amused himself with drawing +plants, &c. in his chamber. The care and attention of Dr. Laidley +contributed greatly to alleviate his sufferings; his company beguiled +the tedious hours during that gloomy season, when the rain falls in +torrents, when suffocating heats oppress by day, and when the night +is spent in listening to the croaking of frogs, the shrill cry of the +jackal, and the deep howling of the hyena; a dismal concert, +interrupted only by the roar of tremendous thunder. + +On the 6th of October the waters of the Gambia were at their greatest +height, being fifteen feet above the high water mark of the tide, +after which they began to subside; at first slowly, but afterwards +very rapidly, sometimes sinking more than a foot in twenty-four +hours: by the beginning of November the river had sunk to its former +level, and the tide ebbed and flowed as usual. When the river had +subsided, and the atmosphere grew dry, Mr. Park recovered apace, and +began to think of his departure; for this is reckoned the most proper +season for travelling: the natives had completed their harvest, and +provisions were everywhere cheap and plentiful. + +On the 2nd December 1795, Mr. Park took his departure from the +hospitable mansion of Dr. Laidley, being fortunately provided with a +negro servant, who spoke both the English and Mandingo tongues; his +name was Johnson: he was a native of that part of Africa, and having +in his youth been conveyed to Jamaica as a slave, he had been made +free, and taken to England by his master, where he had resided many +years, and at length found his way back to his native country. He was +also provided with a negro boy, named Demba, a sprightly youth, who, +besides Mandingo, spoke the language of the Serawoollies, an inland +people; and to induce him to behave well, he was promised his freedom +on his return, in case the tourist should report favourably of his +fidelity and services. A free man, named Madiboo, travelling to the +kingdom of Bambara, and two slatees, going to Bondou, offered their +services, as did likewise a negro, named Tami, a native of Kasson, +who had been employed some years by Dr. Laidley as a blacksmith, and +was returning to his native country with the savings of his labours. +All these men travelled on foot, driving their asses before them. + +Thus Mr. Park had no less than six attendants, all of whom had been +taught to regard him with great respect, and to consider that their +safe return hereafter to the countries on the Gambia, would depend on +his preservation. + +Dr. Laidley and the Messrs. Ainsley accompanied Park the two first +days. They reached Jindy the same day, and rested at the house of a +black woman, who had formerly been the mistress of Mr. Hewett, a +white trader, and who, in consequence of that honour, was called +_Seniora_. In the evening they walked out, to see an adjoining +village, belonging to a slatee, named Jemaffoo Mamadoo, the richest +of all the Gambia traders. They found him at home, and he thought so +highly of the honour done him by this visit, that he presented them +with a fine bullock, part of which was dressed for their evening's +repast. + +The negroes do not go to supper till late, and in order to amuse +themselves while the beef was preparing, a Mandingo was desired to +relate some diverting stories, in listening to which, and smoking +tobacco, they spent three hours. These stories bear some resemblance +to those in the Arabian Nights' Entertainments, but in general are of +a more ludicrous cast. + +About one o'clock in the afternoon of the 3rd of December, Park took +his leave of Dr. Laidley and Messrs. Ainsley, and rode slowly into +the woods. He had now before him a boundless forest, and a country, +the inhabitants of which were strangers to civilized life. He +reflected that he had parted from the last European he might probably +behold, and perhaps quitted for ever the comforts of Christian +society. These thoughts necessarily cast a gloom over his mind, and +he rode musing along for about three miles, when he was awakened from +his reverie by a number of people, who, running up, stopped the +asses, giving him to understand, that he must either go with them to +Peckaba, to present himself to the king of Woolli, or pay customs to +them. He endeavoured to make them comprehend, that not travelling for +traffic, he ought not to be subjected to a tax like merchants, but +his reasoning was thrown away upon them. They said it was usual for +travellers of all descriptions to make a present to the king of +Woolli, and without doing so, none could be permitted to proceed. As +the party were numerous, he thought it prudent to comply with their +demand, and presented them with four bars of tobacco. At sunset he +reached a village near Kootacunda. + +The next day entering Woolli, he stopped to pay customs to an officer +of the king. Passing the night at a village called Tabajang: at noon +the following day Park reached Medina, the capital of the king of +Woolli's dominions. It is a large place, and contains at least a +thousand houses. It is fortified in the common African manner by a +high mud wall, and an outward fence of pointed stakes and prickly +bushes, but the walls were neglected, and the outward fence had +suffered considerably by being plucked up for fire-wood. Mr. Park +obtained a lodging with one of the king's near relations, who warned +him, at his introduction to the king, not to shake hands with him, +that liberty not being allowed to strangers. With this salutary +warning, Park paid his respects to Jatta, the king, and asked his +permission to pass to Bondou. He was the same old man, of whom Major +Houghton speaks in such favourable terms. The sovereign was seated +before the door of his hovel, surrounded by a number of men and +women, who were singing and clapping their hands. Park, saluting him +respectfully, told him the object of his visit. The monarch not only +permitted him to proceed on his journey, but declared he would offer +prayers for his safe return. One of Mr. Park's attendants, to +manifest his sense of the king's courtesy, roared out an Arabic song, +at every pause of which the king himself, and all present, striking +their hands against their foreheads, exclaimed, with affecting +solemnity, _Amen, Amen._ The king further assured him, that a guide +should be ready on the following day, to conduct him to the frontier +of Bondou. Having taken leave, he sent the king an order upon Dr. +Laidley for three gallons of rum, and received in return a great +store of provisions. + +December the 6th, early in the morning, on visiting Jatta, he found +his majesty sitting upon a bullock's hide, warming himself before a +large fire, for the Africans frequently feel cold when a European is +oppressed with heat. Jatta received his visitant very kindly, and +earnestly entreated him to advance no farther into the interior, +telling him that Major Houghton had been killed in his route. He said +that travellers must not judge of the people of the eastern country +by those of Woolli. The latter were acquainted with white men, and +respected them; whereas, in the east, the people had never seen one, +and would certainly destroy the first they beheld. Park, thanking the +king for his affectionate concern, told him he was determined, +notwithstanding all danger, to proceed. The king shook his head, but +desisted from further persuasion, and ordered the guide to hold +himself in readiness. + +On the guide making his appearance, Park took his last farewell of +the good old king, and in three hours reached Konjour, a small +village, where he and his party rested for the night. Here he bought +a fine sheep for some beads, and his attendants killed it, with all +the ceremonies prescribed by their religion. Part of it was dressed +for supper, after which a dispute arose between one of the negroes +and Johnson, the interpreter, about the sheep's horns. The former +claimed the horns as his perquisite, as he had performed the office +of butcher, and Johnson disputed the claim. To settle the matter, Mr. +Park gave a horn to each of the litigants. + +Leaving Konjour, and sleeping at a village called Malla, on the 8th +he arrived at Kolor, a considerable town, near the entrance into +which he saw hanging upon a tree, a sort of masquerade habit, made of +the bark of trees, which he was told belonged to Mumbo Jumbo. The +account of this personage is thus narrated by Mr. Park: "This is a +strange bugbear, common to all the Mandingo towns, and much employed +by the pagan natives in keeping their women in subjection, for as the +kafirs are not restricted in the number of their wives, every one +marries as many as he can maintain, and, as it frequently happens, +that the ladies disagree among themselves, family quarrels rise +sometimes to such a height, that the husband can no longer preserve +peace in his household. In such cases, the interposition of Mumbo +Jumbo is called in, and is always decisive." + +This strange minister of justice, who is supposed to be either the +husband himself, or some person instructed by him, disguised in the +dress before mentioned, and armed with his rod of public authority, +announces his coming by loud and continual screams in the woods near +the town. He begins the pantomime at the approach of night, and, as +soon as it is dark, enters the town, and proceeds to the bentang, at +which all the inhabitants immediately assemble. + +This exhibition is not much relished by the women, for as the person +in disguise is unknown to them, every married female suspects the +visit may be intended for herself, but they dare not refuse to +appear, when they are summoned: and the ceremony commences with songs +and dances, which continue till midnight, when Mumbo fixes on the +offender. The victim, being immediately seized, is stripped naked, +tied to a post, and severely scourged with Mumbo's rod, amidst the +shouts and derisions of the assembly; and it is remarkable, that the +rest of the women are loudest in their exclamations against their +unhappy sister. Daylight puts an end to this indecent and unmanly +revel. + +On the 9th of December, Park reached Tambacunda, leaving which the +next morning, he arrived in the evening at Kooniakary, a town of +nearly the same size and extent as Kolor. On the 11th he came to +Koojar, the frontier town of Woolli near Bondou. + +King Jatta's guide being now to return, Park presented him with some +amber, and having been informed that it was not possible at all times +to procure water in the wilderness, he inquired for men, who would +serve both as guides and water-bearers, and he procured three +negroes, elephant hunters, for that service, paying them three bars +each in advance. + +The inhabitants of Koojar beheld the white man with surprise and +veneration, and in the evening invited him to see a _neobering,_ or +wrestling match, in the bentang. This is an exercise very common in +all these countries. The spectators formed a ring round the +wrestlers, who were strong, active young men, full of emulation, and +accustomed to such contests. Being stripped to a short pair of +drawers, and having their skin anointed with oil or _Shea_ water, the +combatants approached, each on all fours, parrying for some time, +till at length one of them sprang forward, and caught his antagonist +by the knee. Great dexterity and judgment were now displayed, but the +combat was decided by strength. Few Europeans would have subdued the +conqueror. The wrestlers were animated by the sound of a drum. + +After the wrestling, commenced a dance, in which many performers +assisted, provided with little bells fastened to their legs and arms, +and here also the drum assisted their movements. The drum likewise +keeps order among the spectators, by imitating the sound of certain +Mandingo sentences; for example, when the sport is about to begin, +the drummer strikes, which is understood to signify, _Ali boe si,_ +"sit all down," upon which the lookers-on immediately squat +themselves on the ground, and when the combatants are to begin, he +strikes, _Amuta, amuta,_ "take hold, take hold." + +In the morning of the 12th, he found that one of the elephant hunters +had absconded with the money he had received beforehand; and to +prevent the other two from following his example, Park made them +instantly fill their calabashes with water, and they entered the +wilderness that separates Woolli from Bondou. The attendants halted +to prepare a saphie or charm, to ensure a safe journey. This was done +by muttering a few sentences, and spitting upon a stone, thrown +before them on the road. Having repeated this operation three times, +the negroes proceeded with assurance off safety. + +Riding along, they came to a large tree, called by the natives _neema +taba_. It was decorated with innumerable rags of cloth, which persons +travelling across the wilderness had at different times tied to the +branches, which was done, according to the opinion of Mr. Park, to +inform the traveller that water was to be found near it; but the +custom has been so sanctioned by time, that nobody now presumes to +pass without hanging up something. Park followed the example, and +suspended a handsome piece of cloth on one of the boughs; and being +informed that either a well or a pool of water was at no great +distance, he ordered the negroes to unload the asses, that they might +give them some corn, and regale themselves with the provisions, +which they had brought, meanwhile he sent one of the elephant hunters +to look for the well. A pool was found, but the water was thick and +muddy, and the negro discovered near it the remains of fire and +fragments of provisions, which showed that it had been lately +visited, either by travellers or banditti. The attendants, +apprehending the latter, and supposing that the robbers lurked at no +great distance, Mr. Park proceeded to another watering place. He +arrived there late in the, evening, fatigued with so long a day's +journey; and kindling a large fire, laid down, more than a gunshot +from any bush, the negroes agreeing to keep watch by turns, to +prevent surprise. The negroes were indeed very apprehensive of +banditti during the whole of the journey. As soon, therefore, as +daylight appeared, they filled their soofros and calabashes at the +pool, took their departure, and arrived at Tallika, the first town in +Bondou, on the 13th December. Mr. Park says, that he cannot take +leave of Woolli without observing, that he was every where well +received by the natives, and that the fatigues of the day were +generally alleviated by a hearty welcome at night. + +Tallika, the frontier town of Bondou towards Woolli, is inhabited +chiefly by the Mohammedan Foulahs, who acquire no inconsiderable +affluence by furnishing provisions to the coffles or caravans, and by +the sale of ivory from hunting elephants. Here an officer constantly +resides, whose business it is to watch the arrival of the caravans, +which are taxed according to the number of loaded asses. + +Mr. Park lodged with this officer, and was accompanied by him to +Fatteconda, the king's residence, for which he was paid five bars. +They halted for the first night at Ganado, where they partook of a +good supper, and were further exhilarated by an itinerant musician, +or singing man, who told a number of entertaining stories, and played +some sweet airs, by blowing his breath upon a bow-string, and +striking it at the same time with a stick. + +At daybreak Mr. Park's fellow-travellers, the Serawoollies, took +their leave, with many prayers for his safety. A mile from Ganado +they crossed a branch of the Gambia, called Neriko, and in the +evening reached Koorkarany, a Mohammedan town, in which the +blacksmith had some relations. Koorkarany is surrounded by a high +wall, and is provided with a mosque. Here a number of Arabic +manuscripts were shown to Mr. Park, particularly a copy of the book +called _Al Sharra_. Leaving Koorkarany, they were joined by a young +man, who was travelling to Fatteconda for salt, and as night set in, +they reached Dooggi, a small village about three miles from +Koorkarany. There they purchased a bullock for six small stones of +amber. + +Early in the morning of the 18th December, they departed from Dooggi, +joined by a party of Foulahs and others, in the evening arrived at a +village called Buggil, and passed the night in a miserable hut, +having no other bed than a bundle of corn stalks. The wells are here +dug with great ingenuity, and are very deep. From Buggil they +travelled along a dry, stony height, covered with mimosas, and +descended into a deep valley, in which, pursuing their course, they +came to a large village, where they intended to lodge. Many of the +natives were dressed in a thin French gauze, which they called +_byqui_; this being a dress calculated to show the shape of their +persons, was very fashionable among the women. These females were +extremely rude and troublesome; they took Mr. Park's cloak, cut the +buttons from the boy's clothes, and were proceeding to other +outrages, when he mounted his horse, and proceeded on his journey. +In the evening they reached Soobrudooka, and as the company were +numerous, they purchased a sheep and corn wherewith to regale +themselves, after which, they slept by their baggage. From +Soobrudooka they came to a large village on the banks of the Faleme, +which is here very rapid and rocky. The river abounds with a small +fish, of the size of sprats, which are prepared for sale by pounding +them in mortars, and exposing them to dry in the sun in large lumps. + +An old moorish shereeff, who came to bestow his blessing on Mr. Park, +and beg some paper to write saphies upon, said that he had seen Major +Houghton in the kingdom of Kaarta, and that he died in the country of +the moors. Mr. Park and some of his attendants gave him a few sheets +of paper, on which to write his charms. Proceeding northward along +the banks of the river, they arrived at Mayemow, the chief man of +which town presented Mr. Park with a bullock, and he in return gave +him some amber and beads. Crossing the river, they entered +Fatteconda, the capital of Bondou, and received an invitation from a +slatee to lodge at his house, for as in Africa there are no inns, +strangers stand at the Bentang, or market-place, till they are +invited by some of the inhabitants. Soon afterwards, Mr. Park was +conducted to the king, who was desirous of seeing him immediately, +if he was not too much fatigued for the interview. + +He took his interpreter with him, and followed the messenger till +they were quite out of the town, when suspecting some trick, Mr. Park +stopped and asked his guide, whither he was going?--Upon this, he +pointed to a man sitting under a tree at some little distance, and +told him that the king frequently gave audience in that retired +manner, in order to avoid a crowd of people. When he advanced, the +king desired him to come and sit by him upon the mat, and after +hearing his story, on which he made no observation, he inquired of +Mr. Park, if he wished to purchase any slaves or gold. Being answered +in the negative, he seemed surprised, but desired him to visit him +again in the evening, that he might be supplied with some provisions. + +This prince was called Almami, and was a pagan. It was reported that +he had caused Major Houghton to be plundered. His behaviour, +therefore, at this interview, although distinguished by greater +civility than was expected, caused Mr. Park some uneasiness, for as +he was now entirely in his power, he thought it more politic to +conciliate the good opinion of the monarch, by a few presents. +Accordingly, in the evening, Mr. Park took with him a canister of +gunpowder, some amber, tobacco, and an umbrella; and as he considered +that his bundles would inevitably be searched, he concealed some few +articles in the roof of the hut where he lodged, putting on his new +blue coat, in order to preserve it. + +Mr. Park on coming to the entrance of the court, as well as his guide +and interpreter, according to custom, took off their sandals, and the +former pronounced the king's name aloud, repeating it till he was +answered from within. They found the monarch sitting upon a mat, and +two attendants with him. Mr. Park told him his reasons for passing +through his country, but his majesty did but seem half satisfied. He +thought it impossible, he said, that any man in his senses would +undertake so dangerous a journey, merely to look at the country and +its inhabitants. When, however, Mr. Park had delivered his presents, +his majesty seemed well pleased, and was particularly delighted with +the umbrella, which he repeatedly furled and unfurled, to the great +admiration of himself and his two attendants, who could not for some +time comprehend the use of this wonderful machine. After this, Mr. +Park was about to take his leave, when the king began a long preamble +in favour of the whites, extolling their immense wealth and good +dispositions. He next proceeded to an eulogium on Mr. Park's blue +coat, of which the yellow buttons seemed particularly to please his +fancy, and he concluded by entreating Mr. Park to present him with +it, assuring him, as a matter of great consolation to him for the +loss of it, that he would wear it on all public occasions, and inform +every one who saw it, of the great liberality of Mr. Park towards +him. The request of an African prince, in his own dominions, comes +very little short of a command. Mr. Park, therefore, very quietly +took off his coat, the only good one in his possession, and laid it +at his feet. In return for his compliance, he presented Mr. Park +with great plenty of provisions, and desired to see him again in the +morning. Mr. Park accordingly attended, and found the king sitting on +his bed. His majesty told him he was sick, and wished to have a +little blood taken from him, but Mr. Park had no sooner tied up his +arm, and displayed the lancet, than his courage failed, and he begged +him to postpone the operation. He then observed, that his women were +very desirous to see him, and requested that he would favour them +with a visit. An attendant was ordered to conduct him, and he had no +sooner entered the court appropriated to the ladies, than the whole +seraglio surrounded him, some begging for physic, some for amber, and +all of them trying that great African specific, blood-letting. They +were ten or twelve in number, most of them young and handsome, and +wearing on their heads ornaments of gold and beads of amber. They +rallied him on the whiteness of his skin and the prominency of his +nose. They insisted that both were artificial, the first they said, +was produced when he was an infant, by dipping him in milk, and they +insisted that his nose had been pinched every day, till it had +acquired its present unsightly and unnatural conformation. On his +part, without disputing his own deformity, he paid them many +compliments on African beauty. He praised the glossy jet of their +skins, and the lovely depression of their noses; but they said, that +flattery, or as they emphatically termed it, _honey-mouth_, was not +esteemed in Bondou. The ladies, however, were evidently not +displeased, for they presented him with a jar of honey and some fish. + +Mr. Park was desired to attend the king again, a little before +sunset, on which occasion he presented to his majesty some beads and +writing paper, as a small offering, in return for which the king gave +him five drachms of gold. He seconded the act by one still greater, +he suffered the baggage to pass without examination, and Mr. Park was +allowed to depart when he pleased. + +Accordingly, on the morning of the 23d, Mr. Park left Fatteconda, and +in a few hours arrived at a small village, the boundary between +Bondou and Kajaaga. Hearing it was dangerous for travellers, Mr. Park +resolved to proceed by night, until they should reach a more +hospitable part of the country, and directed their course through the +woods. On this occasion, Mr. Park says, "the stillness of the air, +the howling of the wild beasts, and the deep solitude of the forest, +made the scene solemn and impressive. Not a word was uttered by any +of us, but in a whisper; all were attentive, and every one anxious to +show his sagacity, by pointing out to me the wolves and hyenas, as +they glided, like shadows, from one thicket to another." The +following afternoon they arrived at Joag, in the kingdom of Kajaaga, +where they took up their abode at the house of the chief man, here +called the _dooty_. He was a rigid Mohammedan, but distinguished for +his hospitality. The town was supposed to contain about two thousand +inhabitants; it was surrounded by a high wall, in which were a number +of port-holes for musketry. Every man's possession was likewise +surrounded by a wall, the whole forming so many distinct citadels, +and, amongst a people unacquainted with the use of artillery, the +walls answer all the purposes of stronger fortifications. + +The same evening, Madiboo, the Bushreen from Pisania, went to pay a +visit to his father and mother, who dwelt at a neighbouring town, +called Dramanet. He was joined by the blacksmith; and as soon as it +was dark, Mr. Park was invited to see the sports of the inhabitants. +A great crowd surrounded a dancing party; the dances, however, +consisted more in wanton gestures, than in muscular exertion or +graceful attitudes. The women vied with each other in displaying the +most voluptuous movements imaginable. + +On the 25th December, early in the morning, a number of horsemen +entered the town, and came to the bentang on which Mr. Park had made +his bed. One of them, thinking he was asleep, attempted to steal his +musket; but finding that he could not effect his purpose +undiscovered, he desisted. + +Mr. Park now perceived, by the countenance of the interpreter, +Johnson, that something bad was in agitation; he was also surprised +to see Madiboo, and the blacksmith so soon returned. On inquiring the +reason, Madiboo informed him, that as they were dancing at Dramanet, +ten horsemen belonging to Batcheri, the king, with his second son at +their head, had inquired if the white man had passed. The ten +horsemen mentioned by Madiboo arrived, and entering the bentang +dismounted, and seated themselves with those who had come before, the +whole being about twenty in number, forming a circle round him, and +each man holding his musket in his hand. Mr. Park now remarked to his +landlord, that as he did not understand the Serawoolii tongue, he +hoped whatever the men had to say, they would speak in Mandingo. To +this they agreed, and a man, loaded with a remarkable number of +saphies, opened the business in a long oration, purporting that the +white man had entered the king's town, without having first paid the +duties, or giving any present to the king, and that according to the +laws of the country, his people, cattle and baggage were forfeited, +and he added, that they had received orders from the king, to conduct +Mr. Park to Mauna. It would have been equally vain and imprudent to +have resisted or irritated such a body of men, he, therefore, +affected to comply with their demands. The poor blacksmith, who was a +native of Kasson, mistook this feigned compliance for a real +intention, and begged Mr. Park privately, that he would not entirely +ruin him by going to Mauna, adding, that as he had every reason to +believe that a war would soon take place between Kasson and Kajaaga, +he should not only lose his little property, the savings of four +years' industry, but should certainly be detained and sold as a +slave. + +Mr. Park told the king's son, he was ready to go with him upon +condition, that the blacksmith, who was an inhabitant of a distant +kingdom, and entirely unconnected with him, should be allowed to stay +at Joag until his return. To this they all objected, and insisted +that as all had acted contrary to the laws, all were equally +answerable for their transgressions. + +Their landlord strenuously advised Mr. Park not to go to the king, +who, he said, if he discovered any thing valuable in his possession, +would seize it without ceremony. In consequence of this +representation, Mr. Park was the more solicitous to conciliate +matters with the king's officers, and acknowledged that he had indeed +entered the king's frontiers, without knowing that he was to pay the +duties beforehand, but was ready to pay them then; accordingly he +tendered, as a present to the king, the drachms of gold, which he had +received from the king of Bondou; this they accepted, but insisted on +examining his baggage. The bundles were opened, but the men were +greatly disappointed in not finding much gold and amber: they made up +the deficiency, however, by taking whatever things they fancied, and +departed, having first robbed him of half his goods. These +proceedings tended, in a great degree, to dispirit the attendants of +Mr. Park. Madiboo begged of him to return; Johnson laughed at the +thoughts of proceeding without money, and the blacksmith was afraid +to be seen, or even to speak, lest any one should discover him to be +a native of Kasson. In this dejected state of mind, they passed the +night by the side of a dim fire. + +In the course of the following day Mr. Park was informed, that a +nephew of Demba Sego Jalla, the Mandingo king of Kasson, was coming +to visit him. The prince had been sent out on a mission to Batcheri, +king of Kajaaga, to endeavour to settle some disputes between his +uncle and the latter, in which, having been unsuccessful, he was on +his return to Kasson, to which place he offered to conduct Mr. Park, +provided he would set out on the following morning. + +Mr. Park gratefully accepted this offer, and, with his attendants, +was ready to set out by daylight on the 27th of December. The retinue +of Demba Sego was numerous, the whole amounting, on the departure +from Joag, to thirty persons and six loaded asses. Having proceeded +for some hours, they came to a tree, for which Johnson had made +frequent inquiry, and here, having desired them to stop, he produced +a white chicken he had purchased at Joag for the purpose, and tied it +by the leg to one of the branches; he then declared they might now +proceed without fear, for their journey would be prosperous. This +circumstance exhibits the power of superstition over the minds of the +negroes, for although this man had resided seven years in England, he +retained all the prejudices imbibed in his youth. He meant this +ceremony, he told Mr. Park, as an offering to the spirits of the +wood, who were a powerful race of beings, of a white colour, with +long flowing hair. + +At noon the travellers stopped at Gungadi, where was a mosque built +of clay, with six turrets, on the pinnacles of which were placed six +ostrich eggs. Towards evening they arrived at Samee a town on the +banks of the Senegal, which is here a beautiful but shallow river, +its banks high, and covered with verdure. + +On the following day they proceeded to Kajee, a large village, part +of which is on the north, and part on the south side of the river. +About sunset Mr. Park and Demba Sego embarked in the canoe, which the +least motion was likely to overset, and Demba Sego thinking this a +proper time to examine a tin box belonging to Mr. Park, that stood in +the fore part of the canoe, by stretching out his hand for it, +destroyed the equilibrium and overset the vessel. As they were not +far advanced, they got back to the shore without much difficulty, and +after wringing the water from their clothes, took a fresh departure, +and were safely landed in Kasson. + +Demba Sego now told Mr. Park, that they were in his uncle's +dominions, and he hoped that he would consider the obligation he owed +to him, and make him a suitable return by a handsome present. This +proposition was rather unexpected by Mr. Park, who began to fear that +he had not much improved his condition by crossing the water, but as +it would have been folly to complain, he gave the prince seven bars +of amber and some tobacco, with which he seemed well satisfied. + +In the evening of December the 29th, they arrived at Demba Sego's +hut, and the next morning Mr. Park was introduced by the prince to +his father, Tigitty Sego, brother to the king of Kasson, chief of +Tesee. The old man viewed his visitor with great earnestness, having +never beheld but one white man before, whom Mr. Park discovered to be +Major Houghton. He appeared to disbelieve what Mr. Park asserted, in +answer to his inquiries concerning the motives that induced him to +explore the country, and told him that he must go to Kooniakary to +pay his respects to the king, but desired to see him again before he +left Tesee. + +Tesee is a large unwalled town, fortified only by a sort of citadel, +in which Tiggity Sego and his family reside. The present inhabitants, +though possessing abundance of cattle and corn, eat without scruple +rats, moles, squirrels, snakes, locusts, &c. The attendants of Mr. +Park were one evening invited to a feast, where making a hearty meal +of what they thought to be fish and kouskous, one of them found a +piece of hard skin in the dish, which he brought away with him, to +show Mr. Park what sort of fish they had been eating. On examining +the skin, it was discovered they had been feasting on a large snake. +Another custom, which is rigidly adhered to, is, that no woman is +allowed to eat an egg, and nothing will more affront a woman of Tesee +than to offer her an egg. The men, however, eat eggs without scruple. + +The following anecdote will show, that in some particulars the +African and European women have a great resemblance to each other, +and that conjugal infidelity is by no means confined to the latter. A +young man, a kafir of considerable affluence, who had recently +married a young and handsome wife, applied to a very devout Bushreen +or Mussulman priest of his acquaintance, to procure him saphies for +his protection during the approaching war. The Bushreen complied with +his request, and to render the saphies more efficacious, enjoined the +young man to avoid any nuptial intercourse with his bride for the +space of six weeks. The kafir obeyed, and without telling his wife +the real cause, absented himself from her company. In the mean time +it was whispered that the Bushreen, who always performed his evening +devotions at the door of the kafir's hut, was more intimate with the +young wife, than was consistent with virtue, or the sanctity of his +profession. The husband was unwilling to suspect the honour of his +sanctified friend, whose outward show of religion, as is the case +with the priests and parsons of the civilized part of the world, +protected him from even the suspicion of so flagitious an act. Some +time, however, elapsed before any jealousy arose in the mind of the +husband, but hearing the charge repeated, he interrogated his wife on +the subject, who confessed that the holy man had seduced her. +Hereupon the kafir put her into confinement, and called a palaver on +the Bushreen's conduct, which Mr. Park was invited to attend. The +fact was proved against the priest, and he was sentenced to be sold +into slavery, or find two slaves for his redemption, according to the +pleasure of the complainant. The injured husband, however, desired +rather to have him publicly flogged, before Tiggity Sego's gate; this +was agreed to, and the sentence immediately carried into execution. +The culprit was tied by the hands to a strong stake, and the +executioner with a long black rod round his head, for some time +applied it with such dexterity to the Bushreen's back, as to make him +roar until the woods resounded. The multitude, by their looking and +laughing, manifested how much they enjoyed the punishment of the old +gallant, and it is remarkable, that the number of stripes was exactly +the same as enjoined by the Mosaic law, _forty, save one._ + +On the 8th of January, Demba Sego, who had borrowed Mr. Park's horse, +for the purpose of making a small excursion into the country, +returned and informed his father, that he should set out for +Kooniakary early the next day. The old man made many frivolous +objections, and gave Mr. Park to understand, that he must not depart +without paying him the duties to which he was entitled from all +travellers; besides which, he expected some acknowledgment for his +kindness towards him. Accordingly, the following morning Demba Sego, +with a number of people, came to Mr. Park, to see what goods he +intended as a present to the old chief. Mr. Park offered them seven +bars of amber, and five of tobacco, but Demba, having surveyed these +articles, very coolly told him they were not a present suitable to a +man of Tiggity Sego's consequence, and if he did not make him a +larger offering, he would carry all the baggage to his father, and +let him choose for himself. Without waiting for a reply, Demba and +his attendants immediately opened the bundles, and spread the +different articles upon the floor; everything that pleased them they +took without a scruple, and Demba in particular seized the tin box, +which had so much attracted his attention in crossing the river. Upon +collecting the remains of his little fortune, after these people had +left him, Mr. Park found, that as at Joag, he had been plundered of +half, so he was here deprived of half the remainder. Having been +under some obligations to Demba Sego, Mr. Park did not reproach him +for his rapacity, but determined at all events to quit Tesee the +following morning; in the mean while, to raise the drooping spirits +of his attendants, he purchased a fat sheep, and had it dressed for +dinner. + +Early in the morning of January the 10th, Mr. Park and his company +left Tesee, and about midday came in sight of the hills in the +vicinity of Kooniakary. Having slept at a small village, the next +morning they crossed a narrow but deep stream, called Krisko, a +branch of the Senegal. Proceeding eastward, about two o'clock they +came in sight of the native town of Jambo, the blacksmith, from which +he had been absent about four years. He was received with the +greatest affection by his relations, but he declared that he would +not quit Mr. Park during his stay at Kooniakary, and they set out for +that place in the morning of the 14th January. About the middle of +the day, they arrived at Soolo, a small village about three miles to +the south of it, where Mr. Park went to visit a slatee, named Salim +Daucari, who had entrusted him with effects to the value of five +slaves, and had given Mr. Park an order for the whole of the debt. +The slatee received his visitors with great kindness. It was, +however, remarkable that the king of Kasson was by some means +apprised of the motions of Mr. Park, for he had not been many hours +at Soolo, when Sambo Sego, the second son of the king of Kasson, came +thither with a party of horse, to inquire what had prevented him from +proceeding to Kooniakary, and waiting upon the king, who he said was +impatient to see him. Salim Daucari apologised for Mr. Park, and +promised to accompany him to Kooniakary. They accordingly departed +from Soolo at sunset, and in about an hour entered Kooniakary, but as +the king had gone to sleep, the interview was deferred till the next +morning, and the travellers slept in the hut of Sambo Sego. + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +On the ensuing morning Mr. Park went to have an audience of King +Demba Sego Jalla, but the crowd of people that were assembled to see +him was so great, that he could scarcely gain admittance; he at +length arrived in the presence of the monarch, whom he found sitting +upon a mat in a large hut: he appeared to be about sixty years of +age. He surveyed Mr. Park with great attention, and on being made +acquainted with the object of his journey, the good old king was +perfectly satisfied, and promised him every assistance in his power. +He said that he had seen Major Houghton, and presented him with a +white horse, but that after passing the kingdom of Kaarta, he had +lost his life among the moors, but in what manner he was utterly +ignorant. The audience being ended, Mr. Park returned to his lodging, +where he made up a small present for the king, who sent him in return +a large white bullock. + +Although the king was well disposed towards Mr. Park, the latter soon +discovered that very great and unexpected obstacles were likely to +impede his progress. A war was on the eve of breaking out between +Kasson and Kajaaga; the kingdom of Kaarta, through which his route +lay, being involved in the issue, and was also threatened with +hostilities by Bambarra. Taking these circumstances into +consideration, the king advised Mr. Park to remain in the vicinity of +Kooniakary, till some decisive information could be obtained of the +state of the belligerents, which was expected to be received in four +or live days. Mr. Park readily submitted to this proposal, and +returned to Soolo, where he received from Salim Daucari, on Dr. +Laidley's account, the value of three slaves, chiefly in gold dust. + +Being anxious to proceed as soon as possible, Mr. Park begged Daucari +to use his interest with the king, to procure him a guide by the way +of Foolado, as it was reported that the war had commenced. Daucari +accordingly set out for Kooniakary on the morning of the 20th, and +the same evening returned with an answer from the king, stating that +his majesty had made an agreement with the king of Kaarta, to send +all merchants and travellers through his dominions, but if Mr. Park +wished to take the route of Foolado, the king gave him permission to +do so, though he could not consistently with his agreement send him a +guide. In consequence of this answer, Mr. Park determined to wait +till he could pass through Kaarta without danger. + +In the interim, however, it was whispered abroad, that the white man +had received abundance of gold from Salim Daucari, and on the morning +of the 23rd, Sambo Sego paid Mr. Park a visit, attended by a party of +horsemen, and insisted upon knowing the exact amount of the money +which he had received, declaring at the same time, that one half of +it must go to the king; that he himself must have a handsome present, +as being the king's son, and his attendants, as being the king's +relations. Mr. Park was preparing to submit to this arbitrary +exaction, when Salim Daucari interposed, and at last prevailed upon +Sambo to accept sixteen bars of European merchandize, and some powder +and ball, as a complete payment of every demand that could be made in +the kingdom of Kasson. + +Mr. Park resided at Soolo for several days, occasionally visiting +surrounding country, and he reports that the number of towns and +villages, and the extensive cultivation around them, surpassed every +thing he had yet seen in Africa. + +The king of Kasson having now obtained information, that the war had +not yet commenced between Bambarra and Kaarta, and that Mr. Park +might probably pass through the latter country before the Bambarra +army invaded it, sent two guides early on the morning of the 3rd of +February, to conduct him to the frontiers. He accordingly took leave +of Salim Daucari, and Jambo the blacksmith, and about ten o'clock +departed from Soolo. In the afternoon of the 4th, they reached Kimo, +a large village, the residence of Madi Konko, governor of the hilly +country of Kasson, which is called Soromma. + +At Kimo, the guides, appointed by the king of Kasson, left Mr. Park, +and he waited at this place till the 7th, when he departed, with Madi +Konko's son as a guide. On the 8th of February they travelled over a +rough stony country, and, having passed a number of villages, arrived +at Lackarago, a small village standing upon the ridge of hills that +separates Kasson from Kaarta. The following morning they left +Lackarago, and soon perceived, towards the south-east, the mountains +of Fooladoo. Proceeding with great difficulty down a stony and abrupt +precipice, they continued their way in a dry bed of a river, where +the trees, meeting over head, made the place dark and cool. About ten +o'clock they reached the sandy plains of Kaarta, and at noon came to +a watering place, where a few strings of beads purchased as much milk +and corn meal as they could eat. Provisions were here so plentiful, +that the shepherds seldom asked any return for the refreshment a +traveller required. At sunset the travellers reached Feesurah, where +they rested. + +Mr. Park and his attendants remained at Feesurah, during the whole of +the following day, for the purpose of learning more exactly the +situation of affairs, before they ventured further. Their landlord +asked so exorbitant a sum for their lodging, that Mr. Park refused to +submit to his demand, but his attendants, frightened at the reports +of approaching war, would not proceed unless he was satisfied, and +persuaded him to accompany them to Kemmoo for their protection on the +road. This Mr. Park accomplished by presenting his host with a +blanket to which he had taken a liking. + +Matters being thus amicably adjusted, our travellers again set out on +the 11th, preceded by their landlord of Feesurah on horseback. This +man was one of those negroes who observe the ceremonial part of +Mahometanism, but retain all their pagan superstitions, and even +drink strong liquors; they are called Johars or Jowers, and are very +numerous in Kaarta. When the travellers had got into a lonely wood, +he made a sign for them to stop, and taking hold of a hollow niece of +bamboo, that hung as an amulet round his neck, whistled very loudly +three times. Mr. Park began to suspect it was a signal for some of +his associates to attack the travellers, but the man assured him it +was done to ascertain the successful event of their journey. He then +dismounted, laid his spear across the road and having said several +short prayers, again gave three loud whistles; after which he +listened, as if expecting an answer, but receiving none, said they +might proceed without fear, for no danger actually existed. + +On the morning of the 12th, they departed from Karan Kalla, and it +being but a short day's journey to Kemmoo, they travelled slower than +usual, and amused themselves by collecting eatable fruits near the +road side. Thus engaged, Mr. Park had wandered a short distance from +his people, when two negro horsemen, armed with muskets, came +galloping from the thickets. On seeing them, he made a full stop; the +horsemen did the same, and all three seemed equally surprised and +confounded. As he approached them, their fears increased, and one +casting upon him a look of horror, rode off at full speed; while the +other, in a panic of fear, put his hand over his eyes, and continued +muttering prayers, till his horse, apparently without his knowledge, +slowly conveyed him after his companion. About a mile to the westward +they fell in with Mr. Park's attendants, to whom they related a +frightful story: their fears had dressed him in the flowing robes of +a tremendous spirit, and one of them affirmed, that a blast of wind, +cold as water, poured down upon him from the sky, while he beheld the +dreadful apparition. + +About two o'clock, Mr. Park entered the capital of Kaarta, which is +situate in the midst of an open plain, the country for two miles +round being cleared of wood. They immediately proceeded to the king's +residence, and Mr. Park, being surrounded by the astonished +multitude, did not attempt to dismount, but sent in the landlord of +Feesurah, and Madi Konko's son, to acquaint his majesty of his +arrival. The king replied, that he would see the stranger in the +evening, and ordered an attendant to procure him a lodging, and +prevent annoyance from the crowd. Mr. Park was conducted into a large +hut, in which he had scarcely seated himself, than the mob entered, +it being found impossible to keep them out, and when one party had +seen him, and asked a few questions, they retired, and another +succeeded, party after party, during the greater part of the day. + +The king, whose name was Koorabarri, now sent for Mr. Park, who +followed the messenger through a number of courts, surrounded with +high walls. Mr. Park was astonished at the number of the king's +attendants: they were all seated, the men on the king's right hand, +and the women and children on the left. The king was not +distinguished from his subjects by any superiority of dress, being +seated on a leopard's skin, spread upon a bank of earth, about two +feet high. Mr. Park seated himself upon the ground before him, and +relating the causes that induced him to pass through his country, +solicited his protection. The king replied, that he could at present +afford him but little assistance, all communication between Kaarta +and Bambarra being cut off; and Monsong, king of Bambarra, with his +army on his march to Kaarta, there was little hope of reaching +Bambarra by the direct route, for coming from an enemy's country, he +would certainly be plundered or taken for a spy. Under these +circumstances he did not wish him to remain at Kaarta, but advised +him to return to Kasson till the war was at an end, when, if he +survived the contest, he would bestow every attention on the +traveller, but if he should fall, his sons would take him under their +care. + +Mr. Park dreaded the thoughts of passing the rainy season in the +interior of Africa, and was averse to return to Europe, without +having made further discoveries, he therefore rejected the well-meant +advice of the king, and requested his majesty to allow a man to +accompany him as near the frontiers of Kaarta as was consistent with +safety. The king, finding he was resolved to proceed, told him that +one route, though not wholly free from danger, still remained, which +was first to go into the Moorish kingdom of Luda-mar, and thence by a +circuitous route to Jarra, the frontier town of Ludamar. He then +inquired of Mr. Park how he had been treated since he left the +Gambia, and jocularly asked him how many slaves he expected to take +home with him on his return. He was, however interrupted by the +arrival of a man mounted on a fine moorish horse covered with sweat +and foam, who having something of importance to communicate, the king +immediately took up his sandals, which is the signal for strangers to +retire. Mr. Park accordingly took leave, but afterwards learned that +this messenger was one of the scouts employed to watch the motions of +the enemy, and had brought intelligence that the Bambarra army was +approaching Kaarta. + +In the evening the king sent to the stranger a fine sheep, a very +acceptable gift, as they had not broken their fast during the whole +of the day. At this time, evening prayers were announced, by beating +on drums, and blowing through hollowed elephants' teeth; the sound of +which was melodious, and nearly resembled the human voice. On the +following morning, Mr. Park sent his horse-pistols and holsters as a +present to the king, and informed him that he wished to leave Kemmoo +as soon as he could procure a guide. In about an hour the king +returned thanks for his present, and sent a party of horsemen to +conduct him to Jarra. On that night he slept at a village called +Marena, where, during the night, some thieves broke into the hut +where the baggage was deposited, cut open one of Mr. Park's bundles, +and stole a quantity of beads, part of his clothes, some amber and +gold. The following day was far advanced before they recommenced +their journey, and the excessive heat obliged them to travel but +slowly. In the evening they arrived at the village of Toorda, when +all the king's people turned back with the exception of two, who +remained to guide Mr. Park and his attendants to Jarra. + +On the 15th of February they departed from Toorda, and about two +o'clock came to a considerable town called Funing-kedy, where being +informed that the road to Jarra was much infested by the moors, and +that a number of people were going to that town on the following +day, Mr. Park resolved to stay and accompany them. Accordingly in the +afternoon of the 17th of February, accompanied by thirty people, he +left Funing-kedy, it being necessary to travel in the night to avoid +the moorish banditti. At midnight they stopped near a small village, +but the thermometer being so low as 68°, none of the negroes could +sleep on account of the cold. They resumed their journey at daybreak, +and in the morning passed Simbing, the frontier village of Ludamar. + +From this village Major Houghton wrote his last letter, with a +pencil, to Dr. Laidley, having been deserted by his negro servants, +who refused to follow him into the moorish country. This brave but +unfortunate man, having surmounted many difficulties, had endeavoured +to pass through the kingdom of Ludamar, where Mr. Park learned the +following particulars concerning his fate. On his arrival at Jarra, +he got acquainted with some moorish merchants, who were travelling to +Tisheel, a place celebrated for its salt pits in the great desert, +for the purpose of purchasing salt. It is supposed that the moors +deceived him, either in regard to the route he wished to pursue, or +the state of the country between Jarra and Timbuctoo, and their +intention probably was to rob and leave him in the desert. At the end +of two days he suspected their treachery, and insisted on returning +to Jarra. Finding him to persist in this determination, the moors +robbed him of every thing he possessed, and went off with their +camels; the major, being thus deserted, returned on foot to a +watering place called Tarra. He had been some days without food, and +the unfeeling moors refusing to give him any, he sunk at last under +his distresses. Whether he actually perished of hunger, or was +murdered by the savage Mahometans, is not certainly known. His body +was dragged into the woods, and Mr. Park was shown at a distance, the +spot where his remains were left to perish. + +Leaving Simbing, the travellers arrived in safety at Jarra, which is +a large town situate at the bottom of rocky hills; the houses being +built of clay and stones intermixed, the former answering the purpose +of mortar. It forms part of the moorish kingdom of Ludamar, but the +majority of the inhabitants are negroes, who purchase a precarious +protection from the moors, in order to avert their depredations. + +On Mr. Park's arrival at Jarra, he obtained a lodging at the house of +Daman Jumma, a Gambia slatee, to whom he had an order from Dr. +Laidley for a debt of the value of six slaves. Daman readily +acknowledged the debt, but said he was afraid he could not pay more +than two slaves' value. He was, however, very useful to Mr. Park, by +procuring his beads and amber to be exchanged for gold, which being +more portable, was more easily concealed from the moors. + +The difficulties, which they had already encountered, and the savage +deportment of the moors, had completely frightened Mr. Park's +attendants, and they declared they would not proceed one step further +to the eastward. In this situation, Mr. Park applied to Daman, to +obtain from Ali, king of Ludamar, a safe conduct into Bambarra, and +he hired one of Daman's slaves to guide him thither, as soon as the +passport should be obtained. A messenger was despatched to Ali, then +encamped near Benown, and Mr. Park sent that prince, as a present, +five garments of cotton cloth purchased from Daman. On the 26th of +February, one of Ali's slaves arrived, as he said, to conduct Mr. +Park as far as Goomba, and demanded one garment of blue cotton cloth +for his attendance. About this time the negro boy Demba declared, +that he would never desert his master, although he wished that he +would turn back, to which he was strongly recommended by Johnson, who +had declared his reluctance to proceed. + +On the following day, Mr. Park delivered a copy of his papers to +Johnson, to convey them to Gambia with all possible expedition, and +he left in Daman's possession various articles, which he considered +not necessary to take with him. He then left Jarra, accompanied by +his faithful boy, the slave sent by king Ali, and one of Daman's +slaves. Without meeting with any occurrence of note, Mr. Park arrived +on the 1st of March at a large town called Deena, inhabited by a +greater proportion of moors than of negroes. Mr. Park lodged in a hut +belonging to one of the latter. The moors, however, assembled round +it, and treated him with every sort of indignity, with a view to +irritate him, and afford them a pretence for pillaging his baggage. +Finding, however, their attempts ineffectual, they at last declared +that the property of a Christian was lawful plunder to the followers +of Mahomet, and accordingly opened his bundles, and robbed him of +every thing they chose. + +Mr. Park spent the 2nd of March, in endeavouring to prevail on his +people to proceed with him, but so great was their dread of the +moors, that they absolutely refused. Accordingly, the next morning, +about two o'clock, Mr. Park proceeded alone on his adventurous +journey. He had not, however, got above half a mile from Deena, when +he heard some one calling after him, and on looking back, saw his +faithful boy running after him. He was informed by the boy, that +Ali's man had set out for Benown, but Daman's negro was still at +Deena, but that if his master would stop a little, he could persuade +the latter to join him. Mr. Park waited accordingly, and in about +three hours the boy returned with the negro. In the afternoon, they +reached a town called Samamingkoos, inhabited chiefly by Foulahs. + +On the 4th they arrived at a large town called Sampaka, where, on +hearing that a white man was come into the town, the people, who had +been keeping holiday and dancing, left of this pastime, and walking +in regular order two by two, with the music before them, came to Mr. +Park. They played upon a flute, which they blowed obliquely over the +end, and governed the holes on the sides with their fingers. Their +airs were plaintive and simple. + +Mr. Park stopped at Sampaka for the sake of being accompanied by some +of the inhabitants, who were going to Goomba; but in order to avoid +the crowd of people, whom curiosity had assembled round him, he +visited in the evening a negro village called Samee, where he was +kindly received by the dooty, who killed two fine sheep, and invited +his friends to the feast. On the following day his landlord insisted +on his staying till the cool of the evening, when he would conduct +him to the next village. Mr. Park was now within two days journey of +Goomba, and had no further apprehension of being molested by the +moors. He therefore accepted the invitation, and passed the forenoon +very agreeably with the poor negroes, the mildness of their manners +forming a striking contrast to the savageness and ferocity of the +moors. In the midst of their cheerfulness, a party of moors +unexpectedly entered the hut. They came, they said, by Ali's orders, +to convey the white man to his camp at Benown. They told Mr. Park, +that if he did not make any resistance, he was not in any danger, but +if he showed any reluctance, they had orders to bring him by force. +Mr. Park was confounded and terrified; the moors, observing his +consternation, repeated the assurance of his safety, and added, that +they had come to gratify the curiosity of Ali's wife, who was +extremely desirous to see a Christian, but that afterwards, they had +no doubt that Ali would make him a present, which would compensate +for his trouble, and conduct him safely to Bambarra. Entreaty or +refusal would have been equally unavailing. Mr. Park took leave of +his landlord and company with great reluctance, and, attended by his +negro boy (for Daman's slave made his escape on seeing the Moors), +followed the messengers, and reached Dalli in the evening, where they +were strictly watched for the night. + +On the following day, Mr. Park and his boy were conducted by a +circuitous path, through the woods to Dangoli, where they slept. They +continued their journey on the 9th, and without any particular +occurrence arrived at Deena, when Mr. Park went to pay his respects +to one of Ali's sons. He sat in a hut, with five or six companions, +washing their hands, feet, and mouths. The prince handed Mr. Park a +double-barrelled gun, and told him to dye the stock blue, and repair +one of the locks. Mr. Park with great difficulty persuaded him that +he knew nothing of gun-making, then, said he, you shall give me some +knives and scissors immediately. The boy, who acted as interpreter, +declaring Mr. Park had no such articles, he hastily snatched up a +musket, and would have shot the boy dead upon the spot, had not the +Moors interfered, and made signs to the strangers to retreat. The boy +attempted to make his escape in the night, but was prevented by the +Moors, who guarded both him, and his master, with the strictest +attention. + +On the 12th, Mr. Park and his guards departed for Benown, and reached +the camp of Ali a little before sunset. It was composed of a great +number of dirty tents, scattered without order, amongst which +appeared large herds of camels, cattle, and goats. Mr. Park had no +sooner arrived, than he was surrounded by such a crowd, that he could +scarcely move. One pulled his clothes, another took off his hat, a +third examined his waistcoat buttons, and a fourth calling out, _La +ilia el Allah, Mahomet ra sowl Allald_ (there is but one God, and +Mahomet is his prophet), signifying, in a menacing tone, that he must +repeat those words. At length, he was conducted to the king's tent, +where a number of both sexes were waiting his arrival. Ali appeared +to be an old man of the Arab cast, with a long white beard, and of a +sullen and proud countenance. Having gazed on the stranger, he +inquired of the Moors, if he could speak Arabic, hearing that he +could not, he appeared much surprised, but made no remarks. The +ladies were more inquisitive; they asked many questions, inspected +every part of Mr. Park's dress, unbuttoned his waistcoat to display +the whiteness of his skin; they even counted his toes and fingers. In +a short time, the priest announced evening prayers, but before the +people departed, some boys had tied a wild hog to one of the tent +strings. Ali made signs to Mr. Park to kill it, and dress it for food +to himself, he, however, did not think it prudent to eat any part of +an animal so much detested by the Moors, and accordingly replied, +that he never ate the flesh of swine. They then untied the hog, in +hopes that it would run immediately at him, the Moors believing that +a great enmity subsists between hogs and Christians, but the animal +no sooner regained his liberty, than he attacked every person he met, +and at last took shelter under the king's couch. Mr. Park was then +conducted to the tent of Ali's chief slave, but was not permitted to +enter, nor touch any of the furniture. A little boiled corn, with +salt and water, was afterwards served him for supper, and he lay upon +a mat spread upon the sand, surrounded by the curious multitude. + +The next day, Mr. Park was conducted by the king's order, to a hut +constructed of corn stalks of a square form, and a flat roof, +supported by forked sticks; but out of derision to the Christian, Ali +had ordered the wild hog before mentioned to be tied to one of the +sticks, and it proved a very disagreeable inmate, the boys amusing +themselves by beating and irritating the animal. Mr. Park was also +again tormented by the curiosity of the Moors. He was obliged to take +off his stockings to exhibit his feet, and even his jacket and +waistcoat to show them the mode of his toilet. This exercise he was +obliged to repeat the whole day. About eight o'clock in the evening, +Ali sent him some kouskous and salt and water, being the only +victuals he had tasted since the morning. During the night, the Moors +kept a regular watch, and frequently looked into the hut to see if he +was asleep. About two o'clock a Moor entered the hut, probably with a +view of stealing something, and groping about, laid his hand upon Mr. +Park's shoulder. He immediately sprang up, and the Moor in a hurry, +fell upon the wild hog, which returned the attack by biting his arm. +The cries of the Moor alarmed his countrymen, who conjecturing their +prisoner had made his escape, prepared for pursuit. Ali did not sleep +in his own tent, but came galloping upon a white horse from a tent at +a considerable distance; the consciousness of his tyrannical and +cruel behaviour had made him so suspicious, that even his own +domestics knew not where he slept. The cause of the outcry being +explained, the prisoner was allowed to sleep until morning without +further disturbance. + +With the returning day, the boys, says Mr. Park, assembled to beat +the hog, and the men and women to plague the Christian. On this +subject, Mr. Park expresses himself most feelingly, for he adds, "it +is impossible for me to describe the behaviour of a people, who study +mischief as a science, and exult in the miseries and misfortunes of +their fellow-creatures. It is sufficient to observe, that the +rudeness, ferocity, and fanaticism, which distinguish the Moors from +the rest of mankind, found here a proper subject whereon to exercise +their propensities. I was a _stranger_, I was _unprotected_, and I +was a _Christian_, each of these circumstances is sufficient to drive +every spark of humanity from the heart of a Moor; but when all of +them, as in my case, were combined in the same person, and a +suspicion prevailed withal, that I was come as a spy into the +country, the reader will easily imagine that, in such a situation, I +had every thing to fear. Anxious, however, to conciliate favour, I +patiently bore every insult, but never did any period of my life pass +so heavily; from sunrise to sunset was I obliged to suffer, with +unruffled countenance, the insults of the rudest savages on earth." + +Mr. Park had now a new occupation thrust upon him, which was that of +a _barber_. His first display of official skill in his new capacity, +was in shaving the head of the young prince of Ludamar, in the +presence of the king, his father, but happening to make a slight +incision, the king ordered him to resign the razor, and walk out of +the tent. This was considered by Mr. Park as a very fortunate +circumstance, as he had determined to make himself as useless and +insignificant as possible, being the only means of recovering his +liberty. + +On the 18th of March, four Moors arrived from Jarra, with Johnson the +interpreter, having seized him before he knew of Mr. Park's +confinement, and brought with them the bundle of clothes left at +Daman Jumma's house. Johnson was led into All's tent and examined; +the bundle was opened, and Mr. Park was sent for, to explain the use +of the various contents. To Mr. Park's great satisfaction, however, +Johnson had committed his papers to the charge of one of Daman's +wives. The bundle was again tied up, and put into a large cowskin +bag. In the evening Ali sent to Mr. Park for the rest of his effects, +to secure them, according to the report of the messengers, _as there +were many thieves in the neighbourhood_. Every thing was accordingly +carried away, nor was he suffered to retain a single shirt. Ali, +however, disappointed at not finding a great quantity of gold and +amber, the following morning sent the same people, to examine whether +anything was concealed about his person. They searched his apparel, +and took from him his gold, amber, watch and a pocket compass. He had +fortunately in the night buried another compass in the sand, and +this, with the clothes he had on, was all that was now left him by +this rapacious and inhospitable savage. + +The pocket compass soon became an object of superstitious curiosity, +and Ali desired Mr. Park to inform him, why the small piece of iron +always pointed to the Great Desert? Mr. Park was somewhat puzzled: to +have pleaded ignorance, would have made Ali suspect he wished to +conceal the truth; he therefore replied, that his mother resided far +beyond the land of Sehara, and whilst she lived, the piece of iron +would always point that way, and serve as a guide to conduct him to +her, and that if she died, it would point to her grave. Ali now +looked at the compass with redoubled wonder, and turned it round and +round repeatedly, but finding it always pointed the same way, he +returned it to Mr. Park, declaring he thought there was magic in it, +and he was afraid to keep so dangerous an instrument in his +possession. + +On the morning of the 20th, a council was hold in Ali's tent +respecting Mr. Park, and its decision was differently related to him +by different persons, but the most probable account he received from +Ali's son, a boy, who told him it was determined to put out his eyes, +by the special advice of the priests, but the sentence was deferred +until Fatima, the queen, then absent, had seen the white man. Mr. +Park, anxious to know his destiny, went to the king and begged +permission to return to Jarra. This was, however, flatly refused, as +the queen had not yet seen him, and he must stay until she arrived, +after which his horse would be restored, and he should be at liberty +to return to Ludamar. Mr. Park appeared pleased; and without any hope +of at present making his escape, on account of the excessive heat, he +resolved to wait patiently for the rainy season. Overcome with +melancholy, and having passed a restless night, in the morning he was +attacked by a fever. He had wrapped himself up in a cloak to promote +perspiration, and was asleep, when a party of Moors entered the hut, +and pulled away the cloak. He made signs that he was sick, and wished +to sleep, but his distress afforded sport to these savages. "This +studied and degrading insolence," says Mr. Park, "to which I was +constantly exposed, was one of the bitterest ingredients in the cup +of captivity, and often made life itself a burthen to me. In these +distressing moments I have frequently envied the situation of the +slave, who, amidst all his calamities, could still possess the +enjoyment of his own thoughts, a happiness to which I had for some +time, been a stranger. Wearied out with such continual insults, and +perhaps a little peevish from the fever, I trembled, lest my passion +might unawares overleap the bounds of prudence, and spur me to some +sudden act of resentment, when death must be the inevitable +consequence." + +In this miserable situation he left the hut, and laid down amongst +some shady trees, a small distance from the camp, but Ali's son, with +a number of horsemen galloping to the place, ordered him to follow +them to the king. He begged them to allow him to remain where he was +for a few hours, when one of them presented a pistol towards him, and +snapped it twice; he cocked it a third time, and was striking the +flint with a piece of steel, when Mr. Park begged him to desist, and +returned with them to the camp. Ali appeared much out of humour, and +taking up a pistol fresh primed it, and turning towards Mr. Park with +a menacing look, said something to him in Arabic. Mr. Park desired +his boy to ask what offence he had committed, and was informed, that +having gone out of the camp without Ali's permission, it was +suspected he had some design to make his escape, but in future, if he +were seen without the skirts of the camp, orders were given that he +should be immediately shot. + +About this time all the women of the camp had their feet, and the +ends of their fingers stained of a dark saffron colour, but whether +for religion or ornament, Mr. Park could not discover. On the evening +of the 26th, a party of these ladies visited him, _to ascertain by +actual inspection, whether the rites of circumcision extended to +Christians_. Mr. Park was not a little surprised at this unexpected +requisition, and to treat the business jocularly, he told them it was +not customary in his country, to give ocular demonstration before _so +many_ beautiful women, but if all would retire, one young lady +excepted, to whom he pointed, he would satisfy her curiosity. The +ladies enjoyed the joke, and went away laughing, The preferred +damsel, although she did not avail herself of the offer, to show she +was pleased with the _compliment_, sent him meal and milk. + +On the morning of the 28th, Ali sent a slave to order Mr. Park to be +in readiness to ride out with him in the afternoon, as he intended to +show him to some of his women, and about four o'clock the king with +six attendants came riding to the hut. But here a new difficulty +occurred, the Moors objected to Mr. Park's _nankeen breeches_, which +they said were inelegant and indecent, as this was a visit to ladies, +but Ali ordered him to wrap his cloak around him. They visited four +different ladies, by each of whom Mr. Park was presented with a bowl +of milk and water. They were very inquisitive, and examined his hair +and skin with great attention, but affected to consider him as an +inferior being, and knit their brows, and appeared to shudder when +they looked at the whiteness of his skin. All the seladies were +remarkably corpulent, which the Moors esteem as the highest mark of +beauty. In the course of the excursion, the dress and appearance of +Mr. Park afforded infinite mirth to the company, who galloped round +him, exhibiting various feats of activity and horsemanship. + +The Moors are very good horsemen, riding without fear, and their +saddles being high before and behind, afford them a very secure seat, +and should they fall, the country is so soft and sandy, that they are +seldom hurt. The king always rode upon a milk-white horse, with its +tail dyed red. He never walked, but to prayers, and two or three +horses were always kept ready saddled near his tent. The Moors set a +high value upon their horses, as their fleetness enables them to +plunder the negro countries. + +On the same afternoon, a whirlwind passed through the camp, with such +violence, that it overturned three tents, and blew down one side of +the hut in which Mr. Park was. These whirlwinds come from the Great +Desert, and at that season of the year are so common, that Mr. Park +has seen five or six of them at one time. They carry up quantities of +sand to an amazing height, which resemble at a distance so many +moving pillars of smoke. + +The scorching heat of the sun, upon a dry and sandy country, now made +the air insufferably hot. Ali having robbed Mr. Park of his +thermometer, he had no means of forming a comparative judgment; but +in the middle of the day, when the beams of the vertical sun are +seconded by the scorching wind from the desert, the ground is +frequently heated to such a degree, as not to be borne by the naked +foot; even the negro slaves will not run from one tent to another +without their sandals. At this time of the day, the Moors are +stretched at length in their tents, either asleep or unwilling to +move, and Mr. Park has often felt the wind so hot, that he could not +hold his hand in the current of air, which came through the crevices +of his hut, without feeling sensible pain. + +During Mr. Park's stay, a child died in an adjoining tent. The mother +and relations immediately began the death howl, in which they were +joined by several female visitors. He had no opportunity of seeing +the burial, which is performed secretly during night, near the tent. +They plant a particular shrub over the grave, which no stranger is +allowed to pluck, nor even touch. + +About the same time a moorish wedding was celebrated, the ceremony of +which is thus described by Mr. Park. "In the evening the tabala or +large drum was beaten to announce a wedding, which was held at one of +the neighbouring tents. A great number of people of both sexes +assembled, but without that mirth and hilarity which take place at a +negro wedding; here there was neither singing nor dancing, nor any +other amusement that I could perceive. A woman was beating the drum, +and the other women joining at times like a chorus, by setting up a +shrill scream, and at the same time moving their tongues from one +side of the mouth to the other with great celerity. I was soon tired +and had returned to my hut where I was sitting almost asleep, when an +old woman entered with a wooden bowl in her hand, and signified that +she had brought me a present from the bride. Before I could recover +from the surprise which this message created, the woman discharged +the content of the bowl full in my face. Finding that it was the same +sort of _holy water_, with which, among the Hottentots, a priest is +said to sprinkle a new-married couple, I began to suspect that the +old lady was actuated by mischief or malice, but she gave me +seriously to understand, that it was a nuptial benediction from the +bride's own person, and which, on such occasions, is always received +by the young unmarried Moors as a mark of distinguished favour. This +being the ease, I wiped my face and sent my acknowledgments to the +lady. The wedding drum continued to beat, and the women to sing, or +rather to whistle during the whole of the night. About nine in the +morning, the bride was brought in state from her mother's tent, +attended by a number of women, who carried her tent, being a present +from her husband, some bearing up the poles, others holding by the +strings, and in this manner they marched, whistling as formerly, +until they came to the place appointed for her residence, where they +pitched the tent. The husband followed with a number of men leading +four bullocks, which they tied to the tent strings, and having killed +another, and distributed the beef among the people, the ceremony was +concluded." + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +Mr. Park had now been detained a whole month in Ali's camp, during +which each returning day brought him fresh distresses. In the evening +alone, his oppressors left him to solitude and reflection. About +midnight, a bowl of kouskous, with some salt and water, was brought +for him and his two attendants, being the whole of their allowance +for the following day, for it was at this time the Mahometan Lent, +which, being kept with religious strictness by the Moors, they +thought proper to compel their Christian captive to a similar +abstinence. Time, in some degree, reconciled him to his forlorn +state: he now found that he could bear hunger and thirst better than +he could have anticipated; and at length endeavoured to amuse himself +by learning to write Arabic. The people, who came to see him, soon +made him acquainted with the characters. When he observed any one +person, whose countenance he thought malignant, Mr. Park almost +always asked him to write on the sand, or to decipher what he had +written, and the pride of showing superior attainment generally +induced him to comply with the request. + +Mr. Park's sufferings and attendant feelings decreased in +intenseness from time and custom; his attempts, as the first +paroxysms ceased, to find the means to amuse and shorten the tedious +hours, is a fine picture, of human passions; and their variations, +circumstances, and situations, which, before they were encountered, +would appear intolerable, generate a resolution and firmness, which +render them possible to be borne. Providence, with its usual +benevolence, willing the happiness of mankind, fortifies the heart to +the assaults, which it has to undergo. + +On the 14th of April, Ali proposed to go two days journey, to fetch +his queen Fatima. A fine bullock was therefore killed, and the flesh +cut into thin slices, was dried in the sun; this, with two bags of +dry kouskous, served for food on the road. The tyrant, fearing +poison, never ate any thing not dressed under his immediate +inspection. Previously to his departure, the negroes of Benown, +according to a usual custom, showed their arms and paid their tribute +of corn and cloth. + +Two days after the departure of Ali, a shereef arrived with +merchandize from Walet, the capital of the kingdom of Biroo. He took +up his abode in the same hut with Mr. Park, and appeared be a +well-informed man, acquainted with the Arabic and Bambarra tongues; +he had travelled through many kingdoms; he had visited Houssa, and +lived some years at Timbuctoo. Upon Mr. Park's inquiring the distance +from Walet to Timbuctoo, the shereef, learning that he intended to +travel to that city, said, _it would not do_, for Christians were +there considered as the _devil's children_, and enemies to the +prophet. + +On the 24th, another shereef arrived, named Sidi Mahomed Moora +Abdallah, and with these two men Mr. Park passed his time with less +uneasiness than formerly, but as his supply of victuals was now left +to slaves, over whom he had no control, he was worse supplied than +during the past month. For two successive nights, they neglected to +send the accustomed meal, and the boy, having begged a few handfuls +of ground nuts, from a small negro town near the camp, readily shared +them with his master. Mr. Park now found that when the pain of hunger +has continued for some time, it is succeeded by languor and debility, +when a draught of water, by keeping the stomach distended, will +remove for a short time every sort of uneasiness. The two attendants, +Johnson and Demba, lay stretched upon the sand in torpid slumber, and +when the kouskous arrived, were with difficulty awakened. Mr. Park +felt no inclination to sleep, but was affected with a deep convulsive +respiration, like constant sighing, a dimness of sight, and a +tendency to faint, when he attempted to sit up. These symptoms went +off when he had received nourishment. + +On the 29th of April, intelligence arrived at Benown, that the +Bambarra army was approaching the frontiers of Ludamar. Ali's son, +with about twenty horsemen, arriving, ordered all the cattle to be +driven away, the tents to be struck, and the people to depart. His +orders were instantly obeyed; the baggage was carried upon bullocks, +one or two women being commonly placed upon the top of each burden. +The king's concubines rode upon camels, with a saddle of an easy +construction, and a canopy to keep the sun from them. On the 2nd of +May, they arrived at Ali's camp, and Mr. Park waited immediately upon +him; he seemed much pleased with his coming, and introduced him to +Fatima, his favourite princess, saying, "that was the Christian." The +queen had long black hair, and was remarkably corpulent; she appeared +at first shocked at having a Christian so near her, but when Mr. Park +had, by means of a negro boy, satisfied her curiosity, she seemed +more reconciled, and presented him with a bowl of milk. + +The heat and the scarcity of water were greater here than at Benown. +One night, Mr. Park, having solicited in vain for water at the camp, +resolved to try his fortune at the wells, to which he was guided by +the lowing of cattle. The Moors were very busy in drawing water, and +when Mr. Park requested permission to drink, they drove him away with +outrageous abuse. He at last came to a well, where there were an old +man and two boys, to whom he made the same request. The former +immediately drew up a bucket of water, but recollecting Mr. Park was +a Christian, and fearing the bucket would be polluted by his lips, he +dashed the water into the trough, and told him to assuage his thirst +from it. The cows were already drinking at the trough, but Mr, Park +resolved to come in for his share, and, accordingly, thrusting his +head between two of the cows, he drank with great pleasure till the +water was nearly exhausted. + +Thus passed the month of May, Ali still considered Mr. Park as his +lawful prisoner, and Fatima, though she allowed him a greater +quantity of victuals than fell to his portion at Benown, yet she made +no efforts for his release. Some circumstances, however, now +occurred, which produced a change in his favour more suddenly than he +expected. The fugitive Kaartans, dreading the resentment of the +sovereign, whom they had so basely deserted, offered to treat with +Ali for two hundred Moorish horsemen to assist them in an effort to +expel Daisy from Gedinggooma, for till Daisy should be vanquished, +they could neither return to their native town, nor live in security +in the neighbouring kingdoms. Ali, with a view to extort money from +these people, despatched his son to Jarra, and prepared himself to +follow him. Mr. Park, believing that he might escape from Jarra, if +he could get there, immediately applied to Fatima, prime counsellor +of the monarch, and begged her to intercede with Ali for leave to +accompany him to Jarra. The request was at length granted. His +bundles were brought before the royal consort, and Mr. Park explained +the use of the several moveables, for the amusement of the queen, and +received a promise of speedy permission to depart. + +In regard to the moorish character, especially the female, which Mr. +Park had frequent opportunities of studying during his captivity at +Benown; it appears that the education of the women is neglected +altogether, they being evidently regarded merely as administering to +sensual pleasure. The Moors have singular ideas of feminine +perfection. With them, gracefulness of figure, and an expressive +countenance, are by no means requisite. Beauty and corpulency are +synonymous. A perfect moorish beauty is a load for a camel and a +woman of moderate pretensions to beauty requires a slave on each side +to support her. In consequence of this depraved taste for +unwieldiness of bulk, the moorish ladies take great pains to acquire +it early in life, and for this purpose, the young girls are compelled +by their mothers to devour a great quantity of kouskous, and drink a +large portion of camel's milk every morning. It is of no importance +whether the girl has an appetite or not, the kouskous and milk must +be swallowed, and obedience is frequently enforced by blows. + +The usual dress of the women is a broad piece of cotton cloth wrapped +round the middle, which hangs down like a petticoat; to the upper +part of this are sewed two square pieces, one before and the other +behind, which are fastened together over the shoulders. The head +dress is a bandage of cotton cloth, a part of which covers +the face when they walk in the sun, but frequently, when they go +abroad, they veil themselves from head to foot. Their employment +varies according to their situation. Queen Fatima passed her time +in conversing with visitors, performing devotions, or admiring her +charms in a looking-glass. Other ladies of rank amuse themselves +in similar idleness. The lower females attend to domestic duties. +They are very vain and talkative, very capricious in their temper, +and when angry vent their passion upon the female slaves, over +whom they rule despotically. + +The men's dress differs but little from that of the negroes, except +that they all wear the turban, universally made of white cotton +cloth. Those who have long beards display them with pride and +satisfaction, as denoting an Arab ancestry. "If any one +circumstance," says Mr. Park, "excited amongst the Moors favourable +thoughts towards my own person, it was my beard, which was now grown +to an enormous length, and was always beheld with approbation or +envy. I believe, in my conscience, they thought it too good a beard +for a Christian." + +The great desert of Jarra bounds Ludamar on the north. This vast +ocean of sand is almost destitute of inhabitants. A few miserable +Arabs wander from one well to another, their flocks subsisting upon a +scanty vegetation in a few insulated spots. In other places, where +the supply of water and pasturage is more abundant, small parties of +Moors have taken up their residence, where they live in independent +poverty, secure from the government of Barbary. The greater part of +the desert, however, is seldom visited, except where the caravans +pursue their laborious and dangerous route. In other parts, the +disconsolate wanderer, wherever he turns, sees nothing around him but +a vast indeterminable expanse of sand and sky; a gloomy and barren +void, where the eye finds no particular object to rest upon, and the +mind is filled with painful apprehensions of perishing with thirst. +Surrounded by this dreary solitude, the traveller sees the dead +bodies of birds, that the violence of the wind has brought from +happier regions; and as he ruminates on the fearful length of his +remaining passage, listens with horror to the voice of the driving +blast, the only sound that interrupts the awful repose of the desert. + +The antelope and the ostrich are the only wild animals of these +regions of desolation, but on the skirts of the desert are found +lions, panthers, elephants, and wild boars. Of domestic animals the +camel alone can endure the fatigue of crossing it: by the +conformation of his stomach, he can carry a supply of water for ten +or twelve days; his broad and yielding foot is well adapted for +treading the sand; his flesh is preferred by the Moors to any other, +and the milk is pleasant and nourishing. On the evening of the 25th +of May, Mr. Park's horse and accoutrements were sent to him by order +of Ali. He had already taken leave of queen Fatima, who most +graciously returned him part of his apparel, and early on the 20th, +he departed from the camp of Bubaker, accompanied by Johnson and +Demba, and a number of moorish horsemen. + +Early in the morning of the 28th of May, Mr. Park was ordered to get +in readiness to depart, and Ali's chief slave told the negro boy, +that Ali was to be his master in future; then turning to Mr. Park, he +said, the boy and every thing but your horse go back to Bubaker, but +you may take the old fool (meaning Johnson, the interpreter) with you +to Jarra. Mr. Park, shocked at the idea of losing the boy, +represented to Ali, that whatever imprudence he had himself been +guilty of, in coming into Ludamar, he thought he had been +sufficiently punished by being so long detained, and then plundered +of his property. This, however, gave him no uneasiness, compared to +the present injury. The boy seized on was not a slave, and accused of +no offence. His fidelity to his master had brought him into his +present situation, and he, as his protector, could not see him +enslaved without deprecating the cruelty and injustice of the act. +Ali, with a haughty and malignant smile, told his interpreter, that +if Mr. Park did not depart that instant, he would send him back +likewise. Finding it was vain to expect redress, Mr. Park shook hands +with his affectionate boy, who was not less affected than himself, +and having blended his tears with those of the boy, assured him he +would spare no pains to effect his release. Poor Demba was led off by +three of Ali's slaves towards the camp at Bubaker. + +On the 1st of June, they departed for Jarra, where Mr. Park took up +his residence with his old friend, Daman Jamma, whom he informed of +every thing that had befallen him. Mr. Park then requested Daman to +endeavour to ransom the boy, and promised him a bill upon Dr. Laidley +for the value of two slaves as soon as Demba arrived at Jarra. Daman +undertook the business, but Ali, considering the boy as Mr. Park's +principal interpreter, and fearing he should be instrumental in +conducting him to Bambarra, deferred the matter day after day, but +told Daman, he himself should have him hereafter, if he would, at the +price of a common slave. To this Daman agreed whenever the boy was +sent to Jarra. + +On the 8th of June, Ali returned to Bubaker to celebrate a festival, +and permitted Mr. Park to remain with Daman until his return. Finding +that every attempt to recover his boy was ineffectual, he considered +it an act of necessity to provide for his own safety before the rains +should be fully set in, and accordingly resolved to escape and +proceed alone to Bambarra, as Johnson, the interpreter, had refused +further attendance. On the 28th of June, at daybreak, Mr. Park took +his departure, and in the course of the day arrived at Queira; where +he had not been a long time, before he was surprised by the +appearance of Ali's chief slave and four Moors. Johnson having +contrived to overhear their conversation, learned that they were sent +to convey Mr. Park back to Bubaker. In the evening two of the Moors +were observed privately to examine Mr. Park's horse, which they +concluded was in too bad a condition for his rider's escape, and +having inquired where he slept, they returned to their companions. +Mr. Park, on being informed of their motions, determined to set off +immediately for Bambarra to avoid a second captivity. Johnson +applauded his resolution, but positively refused to accompany him, +having agreed with Daman to assist in conducting a caravan of slaves +to Gambia. + +In this emergency Mr. Park resolved to proceed by himself, and about +midnight got his clothes in readiness, but he had not a single bead, +nor any other article of value, wherewith to purchase victuals for +himself or his horse. At daybreak, Johnson, who had been listening to +the Moors all night, came to inform him they were asleep, on which, +taking up his bundle, Mr. Park stepped gently over the negroes, who +were sleeping in the open air, and having mounted his horse, bade +Johnson farewell, desiring him to take particular care of the papers, +with which he had entrusted him, and to inform his friends on the +Gambia, that he had left him in good health proceeding to Bambarra. + +Mr. Park advanced with great caution for about the space of a mile, +when looking back he saw three Moors on horseback, galloping at full +speed and brandishing their double-barrelled guns. As it was +impossible to escape, he turned and met them, when two caught hold of +his bridle, and the third presenting his musket, said he must go back +to Ali. Mr. Park rode back with the Moors, with apparent unconcern, +when, in passing through some thick bushes, one of them desired him +to untie his bundle and show them the contents, but finding nothing +worth taking, one of them pulled his cloak from him, and wrapped it +about himself. This was the most valuable article in Mr. Park's +possession, as it defended him from the rains in the day, and from +the mosquitoes at night, he therefore earnestly requested them to +return it, but to no purpose. Mr, Park now perceived, that these men +had only pursued him for the sake of plunder, and turned once more +towards the east. To avoid being again overtaken, he struck into the +woods, and soon found himself on the right road. + +Joyful as he now was, when he concluded he was out of danger, he soon +became sensible of his deplorable situation, without any means of +procuring food, or prospect of finding water. Oppressed with +excessive thirst, he travelled on without having seen a human +habitation. It was now become insufferable; his mouth was parched and +inflamed, a sudden dimness frequently came over his eyes, and he +began seriously to apprehend that he should perish for want of drink. +A little before sunset, he climbed a high tree, from the topmost +branches of which he took a melancholy survey of the barren +wilderness. A dismal uniformity of shrubs and sand every-where +presented itself, and the horizon was as level and uninterrupted as +that of the sea. Descending from the tree, Mr. Park found his horse +devouring the stubble and brushwood with groat avidity. Being too +faint to attempt walking, and his horse too much fatigued to carry +him, Mr. Park thought it was the last act of humanity he should ever +be able to perform, to take off his bridle and let him shift for +himself; in doing which he was suddenly affected with sickness and +giddiness, and falling upon the sand, felt as if the hour of death +was approaching. "Here then," said he, "after a short but ineffectual +struggle, terminate all my hopes of being useful in my day and +generation; here must the short span of my life come to an end. I +cast, as I believe, a last look on the surrounding scene, and whilst +I reflected on the awful change that was about to take place, this +world, with all its enjoyments, seemed to vanish from my +recollection." Nature, however, resumed her functions, and on +recovering his senses, he found the bridle still in his hand, and the +sun just setting. He now summoned all his resolution, and determined +to make another effort to prolong his existence. With this view he +put the bridle on his horse, and driving him before him went slowly +along for about an hour, when he perceived some lightning from the +north-east; to him a delightful sight, as it promised rain, The wind +began to roar amongst the bushes, and he was nearly suffocated with +sand and dust, when the wind ceased, and for more than an hour the +rain fell plentifully. He spread out his clothes to collect it, and +assuaged his thirst by wringing and sucking them. The night was +extremely dark, and Mr. Park directed his way by the compass, which +the lightning enabled him to observe. On a sudden he was surprised to +see a light at a short distance, and leading his horse cautiously +towards it, heard by the lowing of the cattle and the clamour of the +herdsmen, that it was a watering place. Being still thirsty, he +attempted to search for the wells, but on approaching too near to one +of the tents, he was perceived by a woman, who immediately gave an +alarm; Mr. Park, however, eluded pursuit by immerging into the woods. +He soon after heard the croaking of frogs, and following the sound +arrived at some shallow muddy pools, where he and his horse quenched +their thirst. The morning being calm, Mr. Park ascended a tree, and +not only saw the smoke of the watering place which he had passed in +the night, but also another pillar of smoke to the east, about twelve +or fourteen miles distant. Directing his course thither, he reached +some cultivated ground, on which some negroes were at work, by whom +he was informed that he was near a Foulah village, belonging to Ali, +called Shrilla. He had some doubts about entering it, but at last +ventured, and riding up to the dooty's house was denied admittance, +and even refused a handful of corn for his horse. Leaving this +inhospitable door, he rode slowly out of the town towards some low +huts scattered in the suburbs. At the door of a hovel hut, an old +woman with a benevolent countenance sat spinning cotton. Mr. Park +made signs that he was hungry, on which she immediately laid down her +distaff, invited him to the hut, and set before him a dish of +kouskous, of which he made a comfortable meal. In return for her +kindness Mr. Park gave her a pocket handkerchief, begging at the same +time a little corn for his horse, which she readily brought. + +While the horse was feeding, the people began to assemble, and one of +them whispered something to the old woman, which greatly excited her +surprise. Mr. Park knew enough of the Foulah language, to discover +that some of the men wished to apprehend and carry him to Ali, in +hope of receiving a reward. He therefore tied up the corn, and to +prevent suspicion that he had run away from the Moors, took a +northerly direction. When he found himself clear of his attendants, +he plunged again into the woods, and slept under a large tree. He was +awakened by three Foulahs, who supposing him to be a Moor, pointed to +the sun, and said it was time to pray. Coming to a path leading +southwards, which he followed until midnight, he arrived at a small +pool of rain water. Resting here for the night, the mosquitoes and +flies prevented him from sleeping, and the howling of the wild beasts +in the vicinity kept his horse in continual terror. + +On the following morning, he came to a watering place belonging to +the Foulahs, one of the shepherds invited him to come into his tent, +and partake of some dates. There was just room enough in this tent to +sit upright, and the family and furniture were huddled together in +the utmost confusion. When Mr. Park had crept into it upon his hands +and knees, he found in it a woman and three children, who with the +shepherd and himself completely occupied the floor. A dish of boiled +corn and dates was produced, and the master of the family, according +to the custom of the country, first tasted it himself, and then +offered a part to his guest. Whilst Mr. Park was eating, the children +kept their eyes fixed upon him and no sooner had their father +pronounced the word _mazarini_, than they began to cry; their mother +crept cautiously towards the door, and springing out of the tent, was +instantly followed by her children; so truly alarmed were they at the +name of a Christian. Here Mr. Park procured some corn for his horse, +in exchange for some brass buttons, and thanking the shepherd for his +hospitality departed. At sunset he came into the road which led to +Bambarra, and in the evening arrived at Wawra, a negro town belonging +to Kaarta. + +Now secure from the Moors, and greatly fatigued, Mr. Park meeting +with a hearty welcome from the dooty, rested himself at this place. +He slept soundly for two hours on a bullock's hide. Numbers assembled +to learn who the stranger was, and whence he came; some thought him +an Arab, others a moorish sultan, and they debated the matter with +such warmth, that their noise at length awoke him. The dooty, +however, who had been at Gambia, at last interposed, and assured them +that he was certainly a white man, but from his appearance a very +poor one. + +In the afternoon, the dooty examined Mr. Park's bag, but finding +nothing valuable, returned it and told him to depart in the morning. +Accordingly Mr. Park set out, accompanied by a negro, but they had +not proceeded above a mile, when the ass upon which the negro rode, +kicked him off, and he returned, leaving Mr. Park to travel by +himself. About noon he arrived at a town, called Dingyee, where he +was hospitably entertained by an old Foulah. + +When Mr. Park was about to depart on the following day, the Foulah +begged a lock of his hair, because "white men's hair made a saphie, +that would give to the possessor all the knowledge of white men." Mr. +Park instantly complied with his request, but his landlord's thirst +for learning was such, that he had cropped one side of his head, and +would have done the same with the other, had not Mr. Park signified +his disapprobation, and told him that he wished to preserve some of +this precious ware. + +After travelling several days, without meeting with any occurrence of +particular note. Mr. Park arrived at Doolinkeaboo, where the dooty, +at his request, gave him a draught of water, which is usually given +as an earnest of greater hospitality. Mr. Park promised himself here +a good supper and a comfortable bed, but he had neither the one nor +the other. The night was rainy and tempestuous, and the dooty limited +his hospitality to the draught of water. The next morning, however, +when the dooty was gone to the fields, his wife sent Mr. Park a +handful of meal, which, mixed with water, served him for breakfast. + +He departed from Doolinkeaboo in company with two negroes, who were +going to Sego. They stopped at a small village, where an acquaintance +of one of the negroes invited them to a public entertainment. They +distributed with great liberality a dish called _sinkatoo_, made of +sour milk, meal, and beer. The women were admitted into the society, +a circumstance which had never come under Mr. Park's observation +before; every one drank as he pleased; they nodded to each other when +about to drink, and on setting down the calabash, commonly said +_berha_ (thank you.) Both men and women were in a state of +intoxication, but were far from being quarrelsome. + +Mr. Park and the two negroes then resumed their journey, and passed +several large villages, where the former was constantly taken for a +Moor, and with his horse, which he drove before him, afforded much +mirth to the Bambarrans. "He has been at Mecca," says one; "you may +see that by his clothes." Another asked him if his horse was sick? A +third wished to purchase it, &c., and even the negroes at last seemed +ashamed of his company. They lodged that night at a small village, +where Mr. Park procured victuals for himself and corn for his horse, +in exchange for a button, and was told that he should see the Niger, +which the negroes call Joliba, or the Great Water, early on the +following day. The thought of seeing the Niger in the morning, and +the buzzing of the mosquitoes, kept Mr. Park awake the whole of the +night, he had saddled his horse, and was in readiness before +daylight, but as the gates of the village were shut on account of the +wild beasts, he was obliged to wait until the people were stirring. +At length, having departed, they passed four large villages, and in a +short time saw the smoke over Sego. + +On approaching the town, Mr. Park was fortunate enough to overtake +the fugitive Kaartans, to whose kindness he had been so much indebted +in his journey through Bambarra. They readily agreed to introduce him +to the king, and they rode together through some marshy ground, +where, as he was anxiously looking round for the river, one of them +exclaimed, "_Geo affili_" see the water! and looking forwards, Mr. +Park says, "I saw, with infinite pleasure, the great object of my +mission, the long sought for majestic Niger, glittering to the +morning sun, as broad as the Thames at Westminster, and flowing +_slowly to the eastward_. [*] I hastened to the brink, and having +drank of the water, lifted up my fervent thanks in prayer to the +great Ruler of all things, for having thus far crowned my endeavours +with success." + +[Footnote: We cannot reconcile this statement of Park with the +subsequent discovery of Lander, who established the fact, that the +Niger empties itself into the Bight of Benin. The Niger, flowing to +the eastward, could not possibly have the Bight of Benin for its +estuary, nor is it laid down in any of the recent maps as having an +easterly direction.] + +Mr. Park now proceeded towards Sego, the capital of Bambarra, which +consists of four distinct towns; two on the northern bank of the +Niger, called Sego Korro and Sego Koo, and two on the southern bank, +called Sego Soo Korro and Sego See Korro. The king of Bambarra always +resides at the latter place. He employs a great many slaves to convey +people over the river, and the fare paid by each individual, ten +kowrie shells, furnishes a considerable revenue. When Mr. Park +arrived at one of the places of embarkation, the people, who were +waiting for a passage, looked at him with silent wonder, and he saw +with concern many Moors amongst them. He had continued on the bank +more than two hours, without having an opportunity of crossing, +during which time information was carried to Mansong, the king, that +a white man was coming to see him. Mansong immediately sent over one +of his chief men, who informed Mr. Park that the king could not +possibly see him until he knew what had brought him to Bambarra. +He then pointed towards a distant village, and desired Mr. Park to +take up his lodgings there, and in the morning he would give him +further instructions. + +Greatly discouraged at this reception, Mr. Park set off for the +village, but found, to his further mortification, that no person +would admit him into his house, and that he was regarded with general +astonishment and fear. Thus situated, he sat all day without +victuals, under the shade of a tree. Towards night, the wind arose, +and as there was great appearance of a heavy rain, he thought of +passing the night among the branches of the trees, to secure himself +from wild beasts. About sunset a woman, returning from the labours of +the field, stopped to observe him, and perceiving that he was weary +and dejected, inquired into his situation, which he briefly explained +to her; whereupon, with looks of great compassion, she took up his +saddle and bridle, and told him to follow her. Having conducted him +into her hut, she lighted up a lamp, spread a mat on the floor, and +told him he might remain there for the night. She then went out, and +returned in a short time with a fine fish, which, having half +broiled, she gave him for supper. After telling him that he might +sleep without apprehension, she called to the female part of the +family, who stood gazing in fixed astonishment, to resume their task +of spinning cotton, in which they employed themselves the greater +part of the night. They lightened their labours by songs, one of +which at least was extempore, as their guest was the subject of it. +It was sung by one of the young women, the rest joining in chorus. +The air was sweet and plaintive, and the words, literally translated, +were as follow:-- + + "The winds roared, and the rains fell; + The poor white man, faint and weary, came and sat under our tree. + He has no mother to bring him milk--no wife to grind his corn. + + CHORUS. + + Let us pity the white man, no mother has he." &c. + +This circumstance was to Mr. Park, affecting in the highest degree. +He was oppressed by such unexpected kindness, and the sleep fled from +his eyes. In the morning he presented his compassionate landlady with +two of the four buttons which remained on his waistcoat, the only +recompense which he had in his power. Mr. Park remained in the +village the whole of July the 21st, in conversation with the natives. +Towards evening he grew uneasy, to find that no message arrived from +the king, the more so, when he learned from the villagers, that the +Moors and Slatees, resident at Sego, had given Mansong very +unfavourable accounts of him, that many consultations had been held +concerning his reception and disposal; that he had many enemies, and +must expect no favour. On the following day, a messenger arrived from +the king, who inquired if Mr. Park had brought any present, and +seemed much disappointed, on being told that he had been robbed of +all his effects by the Moors. When Mr. Park proposed to go to court, +he said he must stop until the afternoon, when the king would send +for him. It was the afternoon of the next day, however, before +another messenger arrived from Mansong, who told Mr. Park, it was the +king's pleasure he should depart immediately from the environs of +Sego, but that Mansong, wishing to relieve a white man in distress, +had sent five thousand kowries [*] to him to continue his journey, +and if it were his intention to proceed to Jenne, he (the messenger) +had orders to guide him to Sansanding. Mr. Park concludes his account +of this adventure in the following words:-- + +[Footnote: Kowries are little shells, which pass current as money, in +many parts of the East Indies as well as in Africa. Mr. Park +estimates about 250 kowries equal to one shilling. One hundred of +them would purchase a day's provision for himself and corn for his +horse.] + +"I was at first puzzled to account for this behaviour of the king, +but from the conversation I had with the guide, I had afterwards +reason to believe, that Mansong would willingly have admitted me into +his presence at Sego, but was apprehensive he might not be able to +protect me against the blind and inveterate malice of the moorish +inhabitants. His conduct, therefore, was at once prudent and liberal. +The circumstances, under which I made my appearance at Sego, were +undoubtedly such as might create in the mind of the king a +well-warranted suspicion, that I wished to conceal the true object of +my journey. He argued, probably as my guide argued, who, when he was +told that I was come from a great distance, and through many dangers, +to behold the Joliba (Niger) river, naturally inquired if there were +no rivers in my own country, and whether one river was not like +another? Notwithstanding this, and in spite of the jealous +machinations of the Moors, this benevolent prince thought it +sufficient, that a white man was found in his dominions in a +condition of extreme wretchedness, and that no other plea was +necessary to entitle the sufferer to his bounty." + +Being thus obliged to leave Sego, Mr. Park was conducted the same +evening to a village, about seven miles eastward, where he and his +guide were well received, as Mr. Park had learned to speak the +Bambarra tongue without difficulty. The guide was very friendly and +communicative, and spoke highly of the hospitality of his countrymen; +but he informed Mr. Park, that if Jenne was the place of his +destination, he had undertaken a very dangerous enterprise, and that +Timbuctoo, the great object of his search, was altogether in +possession of the Moors, who would not allow any Christians to reside +in it. In the evening they passed a large town called Kabba, situated +in the midst of a beautiful and highly cultivated country, bearing a +great resemblance to the centre of England. + +In the course of the following day, they arrived at Sansanding, a +large town, containing 10,000 inhabitants, much frequented by the +Moors, in their commercial dealings. Mr. Park desired his guide to +conduct him to the house where they were to lodge, by the most +private way possible They accordingly rode along between the town and +the river, and the negroes, whom they met, took Mr. Park for a Moor, +but a Moor, who was sitting by the river side, discovered the +mistake, and, making a loud exclamation, brought together a number of +his countrymen; and when Mr. Park arrived at the house of the dooty, +he was surrounded by a number of people, speaking a variety of +dialects. By the assistance of his guide, however, who acted as +interpreter, Mr. Park at length understood that one of the Moors +pretended to have seen him at one place, and another at some other +place; and a Moorish woman absolutely swore, that she had kept his +house three years at Gallam on the river Senegal. The Moors now +questioned Mr. Park about his religion, but finding he was not master +of the Arabic, they sent for two Jews, in hopes that they might be +able to converse with him. The Moors now insisted that he should +repeat the Mahometan prayers, and when he told them that he could not +speak Arabic, one of them started up, and swore by the prophet, if +Mr. Park refused to go to the mosque, he would assist in carrying him +thither. + +Finding the Moors becoming exceedingly clamorous, the dooty +interfered, and told them that he would not see the king's stranger +ill treated while under his protection, but that in the morning he +should be sent about his business. This somewhat appeased their +clamour, but they compelled Mr. Park to ascend a high seat by the +door of the mosque, that every one might see him, where he remained +till sunset, when he was conducted to a neat little hut, with a small +court before it; but the Moors climbed in crowds over the mud walls, +to see the white man perform his evening devotions, and eat eggs. The +first demand was positively declined, but he professed his utmost +readiness to comply with the second; the dooty immediately brought +seven hens' eggs, but was much surprised that Mr. Park would not eat +them raw, as it is a prevalent opinion in the interior of Africa, +that Europeans subsist chiefly on this diet. His reluctance to +partake of this fare exalted him in the eyes of his sage visitants; +his host accordingly killed a sheep, and gave him a plentiful supper. + +Mr. Park's route now lay through woods, much infested with all kinds +of wild animals. On one occasion, his guide suddenly wheeled his +horse round, calling out (_Warra billi billi_, a very largo lion.) +Mr. Park's steed was ill fitted to convey him from the scene of +danger, but seeing nothing, he supposed his guide to be mistaken, +when the latter exclaimed, "God preserve me;" and Mr. Park then saw a +very large red lion, with his head couched between his fore paws. His +eyes were fixed, as by fascination, on this sovereign of the beasts, +and he expected every moment the fatal spring; but the savage animal, +either not pressed by hunger, or struck with some mysterious awe, +remained immovable, and allowed the party to pass without +molestation. Real misery arose from a meaner cause, namely, the +amazing swarms of mosquitoes, which ascended from the swamps and +creeks, to whose attack, from the ragged state of his garments, he +was exposed at every point, and so covered over with blisters, that +he could not get any rest at night. An affecting crisis next arrived. +His horse, the faithful and suffering companion of his journey, had +been daily becoming weaker. At length, stumbling over some rough +ground, he fell; all his master's efforts were insufficient to raise +him, and no alternative remained, but to leave the poor animal, which +Mr. Park did, after collecting some grass and laying it before him, +not without, however, a sad presentiment, that, ere long, he also +might have to lie down and perish with hunger and fatigue. + +Proceeding along the banks of the river, he reached Kea, a small +fishing village. The dooty, a surly old man, received him very +coolly, and when Mr. Park solicited his protection, replied with +great indifference, that he should not enter his house. Mr. Park knew +not now where to rest, but a fishing canoe at that moment coming down +the river, the dooty waved to the fisherman to land, and desired him +to take charge of the stranger as far as Moorzan. + +When the canoe had proceeded about a mile down the river, the +fisherman paddled to the bank, and having desired Mr. Park to jump +out, tied the canoe to a stake; he then stripped off his clothes, and +dived into the water, where he remained so long that Mr. Park thought +he was drowned, when he suddenly raised up his head astern of the +canoe, and called for a rope. With this rope he dived a second time, +and then got into the canoe, and with the assistance of the boy, they +brought up a large basket, ten feet in diameter, containing two fine +fish, which the fisherman carried ashore, and hid in the grass. The +basket was then returned into the river, and having proceeded a +little further down, they took up another basket, in which was one +fish. + +About four o'clock, they arrived at Moorzan, where Mr. Park was +conveyed across the river to Silla, a large town. Here he remained +under a tree, surrounded by hundreds of people, till it was dark, +when, with a great deal of entreaty, the dooty allowed him to enter +his balloon to avoid the rain, but the place was very damp, and his +fever returned. + +The reflections, which now occurred to him, with the determination +those reflections produced, are here given in his own words. "Worn +down by sickness, exhausted with hunger and fatigue, half naked, and +without any article of value, by which I might procure provisions, +clothes, or lodging, I was now convinced, that the obstacles to my +further progress were insurmountable. The tropical rains were already +set in, the rice grounds and swamps were every where overflowed, and +in a few days more, travelling of every kind, except by water, would +be completely obstructed. The kowries, which remained of the king of +Bambarra's present, were not sufficient to enable me to hire a canoe +for any great distance, and I had little hope of subsisting by +charity, in a country where the Moors have such influence. I saw +inevitable destruction in attempting to proceed to the eastward. With +this conviction on my mind, I hope it will be acknowledged, that I +did right in going no further. I had made every effort to execute my +mission in its fullest extent, which prudence could justify. Had +there been the most distant prospect of a successful termination, +neither the unavoidable hardships of the journey, nor the dangers of +a second captivity should have forced me to desist." + +Mr. Park now acquainted the dooty with his intention of returning to +Sego, proposing to travel along the southern side of the river, but +the dooty informed him, that from the number of creeks and swamps on +that side, it was impossible to travel by any other route than the +northern bank, and even that route would soon be impassable from the +overflowing of the river. However, by the dooty's recommendation, Mr. +Park was conveyed to Moorzan in a canoe, where he hired another canoe +for thirty kowries, which conveyed him to Kea, where, for forty +kowries more, the dooty permitted him to sleep in the same hut with +one of his slaves. This poor negro, perceiving he was sickly, and his +clothes very ragged, humanely lent him a large cloth to cover him for +the night. + +The following day Mr. Park set out for Madiboo, in company with the +dooty's brother, who promised to carry his saddle, which he had +before left at Kea. On their road they observed a great number of +earthen jars, piled up on the bank of the river. As they approached +towards them, the dooty's brother plucked up a large handful of +herbage, which he threw upon them, making signs for Mr. Park to do +the same, which he did. The negro then informed him, that those jars +belonged to some supernatural power, and were found in their present +situation about two years ago, and that every traveller, as he passed +them, from respect to the invisible proprietor, threw some grass upon +the heap to defend them from the rain. Thus conversing, they +travelled on in the most friendly manner, until they perceived the +footsteps of a lion, when the negro insisted that Mr. Park should +walk before. The latter refused, on which the negro, after a few high +words, and menacing looks, threw down the saddle and left him. Mr. +Park having given up all hope of obtaining a horse, took off the +stirrups and girth, and threw the saddle into the river. The negro, +however, when he saw the saddle in the water jumped in, and bringing +it out by the help of his spear, ran away with it. + +Mr. Park now continued his course alone, and in the afternoon reached +Madiboo. His guide, who had got there before him, being afraid he +should complain of his conduct, restored the saddle, and Mr. Park +also found his horse alive. + +On the 1st of August, Mr. Park proceeded to Nyamere, where he +remained three days, on account of the continual rain. On the 5th, he +again set out, but the country was so deluged, that he had to wade +across creeks for miles together, knee-deep in water. He at length +arrived at Nyara, and on the subsequent day, with great difficulty +reached a small village called Nemaboo. + +Mr. Park being assured that in the course of a few days, the country +would be overflowed, was anxious to engage a fellow traveller, when a +Moor and his wife who were going to Sego, riding on bullocks, agreed +to take him along with them; they were, however, unacquainted with +the road, and were very bad travellers. Instead of wading before the +bullocks, to feel if the ground was solid the woman boldly entered +the first swamp, seated upon the top of the load, but when she had +proceeded about two hundred yards the bullock sunk into a hole, and +threw both the load and herself amongst the reeds; she was nearly +drowned before her husband went to her assistance. + +At sunset they reached Sibity, but the dooty received Mr. Park very +coolly, and when he solicited a guide to Sansanding, told him his +people were otherwise engaged. Mr. Park passed the night in a damp +old hut, which he expected every moment would fall upon him; for when +the walls of the huts are softened with the rain, they frequently +become too weak to support the roof. Mr Park heard three huts fall in +during the night, and the following morning, saw fourteen in like +manner destroyed. The rain continued with great violence, and Mr. +Park being refused provisions by the dooty, purchased some corn, +which he divided with his horse. + +The dooty now compelled Mr. Park to leave Sibity, and accordingly he +set out for Sansanding, with little hope of receiving better +treatment, for he had discovered that it was universally believed, he +had come to Bambarra as a spy; and as Mansong had not admitted him +into his presence, the dooties of the different towns were at liberty +to treat him as they pleased. He arrived at Sansanding at sunset, +where his reception was just what he expected. The dooty, who had +been so kind to him formerly, privately informed him, that Mansong +had sent a canoe to Jenne to bring him back, he therefore advised him +to leave Sansanding before day-break, and not to stop at any town +near Sego. Mr. Park accordingly took his departure from Sansanding, +and proceeded to Kabba. Several people were assembled at the gate, +one of whom running towards him, took his horse by the bridle, and +led him round the walls of the town, then pointing to the west, told +him to go along, or it would fare worse with him. Mr. Park +hesitating, a number of people came up, and urged him in the same +manner, and he now suspected that some of the king's messengers, who +were in search of him, were in the town, and that these negroes from +humanity wished him to escape. He accordingly took the road for Sego, +and having passed a village, the dooty of which refused him +admittance, proceeded to a smaller one, where the dooty permitted him +to sleep in a large balloon. + +Leaving his miserable residence by break of day, he arrived in the +afternoon at a small village within half a mile of Sego, where he +endeavoured in vain to procure some provisions. He was again informed +that Mansong had sent people to apprehend him, and the dooty's son +told him he had no time to lose, if he wished to escape. Mr. Park now +fully saw the danger of his situation, and determined to avoid Sego +altogether, and taking the road to Diggani, until he was out of sight +of the village, struck to the westward through high grass and swampy +ground. About noon he stopped under a tree, to consider what course +to take, and at length determined to proceed along the Niger, and +endeavour to ascertain how far the river was navigable. About sunset +he arrived at a village called Sooboo, where, for two hundred +kowries, he procured a lodging for the night. + +After passing the villages of Samee and Kaimoo, he arrived at a small +town called Song, the inhabitants of which would not permit him to +enter the gate, but as lions were numerous in the adjoining woods, he +resolved to stay near the town, and accordingly laid down under a +tree by the gate. In the night, a lion kept prowling round the +village, and once advanced so near Mr. Park, that he heard him +rustling amongst the grass, and climbed the tree for safety. He had +before attempted to enter the gate, and on being prevented, informed +the people of his danger. About midnight the dooty, with some of the +inhabitants, desired him to come in; they were convinced, they said, +that he was not a Moor, for no Moor ever waited at the gate of a +village, without cursing the inhabitants. + +Mr. Park now proceeded on his journey; the country began to rise into +hills, and he saw the summits of high mountains to the westward. He +had very disagreeable travelling, on account of the overflow of the +river; and in crossing a swamp, his horse sunk suddenly into a deep +pit, and was almost drowned. Both the horse and his rider were so +covered with mud, that in passing a village, the people compared them +to two dirty elephants. Mr, Park stopped at a village near Yamina, +where he purchased some corn, and dried his paper and clothes. As +Yamina is much frequented by the Moors, Mr. Park did not think it +safe to lodge there; he therefore rode briskly through it, and the +people, who looked at him with astonishment, had no time to ask +questions. + +On the following day, Mr. Park passed a town called Balaba, the +prospect of the country was by no means inviting, for the high grass +and bushes seemed completely to obstruct the road, and the Niger +having flooded the low lands, had the appearance of an extensive +lake. + +On the following day, Mr. Park took the wrong road, and when he +discovered his error, on coming to an eminence, he observed the Niger +considerably to the left. Directing his course towards it, through +long grass and bushes, he came to a small but rapid stream, which he +took at first for a branch of the Niger, but, on examination, was +convinced it was a distinct river, which the road evidently crossed, +as he saw the pathway on the opposite side. He sat down upon the +bank, in hopes that some traveller might arrive, who could inform him +of the situation of the ford; but none arriving, and there being a +great appearance of rain, he determined to enter the river +considerably above the pathway, in order to reach the other side +before the stream swept him too far down. With this view he fastened +his clothes upon the saddle, and was standing up to the neck in +water, pulling his horse by the bridle to make him follow, when a +man, who came accidentally to the place, called to him with great +vehemence, to come out, or the alligators would destroy both him and +his horse. Mr. Park obeyed, and the stranger who had never before +seen a white man, seemed wonderfully surprised, exclaiming in a low +voice, "God preserve me, who is this?" But when he found Mr. Park +could speak the Bambarra tongue, and was going the same way as +himself, he promised to assist him in crossing the river, which was +named the Frina. He then called to some person, who answered from the +other side, and a canoe with two boys came paddling from amongst the +reeds. Mr. Park gave the boys fifty kowries to ferry himself and his +horse to the opposite shore, and in the evening, arrived at Taffara, +a walled town, where he discovered that the language of the people +was pure Mandingo. + +On the 20th, Mr. Park stopped at a village called Sominoo, where he +obtained some coarse food, prepared from the husks of corn, called +_boo_. On the same day he arrived at Sooha, where the dooty refused +either to sell or to give him any provisions. Mr. Park stopped a +while to examine the countenance of this inhospitable man, and +endeavoured to find out the cause of his visible discontent. The +dooty ordered a slave to dig a hole, and while the slave was thus +employed, the dooty kept muttering and talking to himself, repeatedly +pronouncing the words "_Dankatoo'_" (good for nothing), "_jankre +lemen_," (a real plague). These expressions Mr. Park thought could +not apply to any one but himself; and as the pit had much the +appearance of a grave, thought it prudent to mount his horse, and was +about to decamp, when the slave, who had gone into the village, +brought the corpse of a boy by the leg and arm, and threw it into the +pit with savage indifference. As he covered the body with earth, the +dooty often repeated, "_Naphula attiniata_," (money lost;) from which +it appeared that the boy had been one of his slaves. + +About sunset Mr. Park came to Kollikorro, a considerable town, and a +great market for salt. Here he lodged with a Bambarran, who had +travelled to many parts of Africa, and who carried on a considerable +trade. His knowledge of the world had not lessened his confidence in +saphies and charms, for when he heard that his guest was a Christian, +he brought out his _walha_, or writing-board, and assured Mr. Park he +would dress him a supper of rice, if he would write him a saphie, to +protect him from wicked men. Mr. Park wrote the board full from top +to bottom on both sides, and his landlord, to possess the full force +of the charm, washed the writing off into a calabash with a little +water, and having said a few prayers over it, drank this powerful +draught, after which he licked the board quite dry. Information being +carried to the dooty that a saphie writer was in the town, he sent +his son with half a sheet of writing paper, desiring Mr. Park to +write him a _naphula saphie_, a charm to procure wealth. He brought, +as a present, some meal and milk, and when the saphie was finished, +and read to him with an audible voice, he promised to bring Mr. Park +some milk in the morning for breakfast. + +The following day, Mr. Park proceeded on his journey, and in the +afternoon arrived at Marraboo, where he lodged in the house of a +Kaartan, who, from his hospitality to strangers, was called _Jatee_, +(the landlord,) his house being a sort of public inn for all +travellers. Those who had money were well lodged, for they always +made him some return for his kindness; but those who had nothing to +give were content to accept whatever he thought proper. Mr. Park, +belonging to the latter class, took up his lodging in the same hut +with seven poor fellows, who had come from Kancaba in a canoe, but +their landlord sent them some victuals. + +Mr. Park now altered his course from the river to the mountains, and +in the evening arrived at a village, called Frookaboo, from which +place he proceeded on the following day to Bambakoo. This town is not +so large as Marraboo, but the inhabitants are rich; for when the +Moors bring their salt through Kaarta or Barnbarra, they rest at this +place; the negro merchants purchasing the salt by wholesale, and +retailing it to great advantage. Here Mr. Park lodged at the house of +a Serawoolli negro, and was visited by a number of Moors, who treated +him with great civility. A slave-merchant, who had resided many years +on the Gambia, gave Mr. Park an imperfect account of the distance to +that river, but told him the road was impassable at that season of +the year, and added, that it crossed the Joliba at about half a day's +journey westward of Bammakoo; and as there were not any canoes large +enough to receive his horse, he could not possibly get him over for +some months to come. Mr. Park consulted with his landlord how to +surmount this difficulty, who informed him that one road which was +very rocky, and scarcely passable for horses, still remained, but if +he procured a proper guide over the hills to a town called +Sibidooloo, he had no doubt but he might travel forwards through +Manding. Being informed that a _jilli-kea_, or singing-man, was about +to depart for Sibidooloo, Mr. Park set out in company with him; but +when they had proceeded up a rocky glen about two miles, the +singing-man discovered that he had brought him the wrong road, as the +horse-road lay on the other side of the hill. He then threw his drum +upon his back, and mounted up the rocks, where, indeed, no horse +could follow him, leaving Mr. Park to admire his agility, and trace +out a road for himself. + +Mr. Park rode back to the level ground, and following a path, on +which he observed the marks of horses' feet, came to some shepherds' +huts, where he was informed that he was on the right road to +Sibidooloo. In the evening he arrived at a village called Kooma, +situated in a delightful valley. This village is the sole property of +a Mandingo merchant, who fled thither with his family during a former +war. The harmless villagers surrounded Mr. Park, asked him a thousand +questions about his country, brought corn and milk for himself, and +grass for his horse, and appeared very anxious to serve him. + +On the 25th, he departed from Kooma, in company with two shepherds, +who were going towards Sibidooloo; but as the horse travelled slowly, +and with great difficulty, the shepherds kept walking on at a +considerable distance, when on a sudden Mr. Park heard some people +calling to each other, and presently a loud screaming, as from a +person in great distress. He rode slowly to the place whence the +noise proceeded, and in a little time perceived one of the shepherds +lying among the long grass near the road. When Mr. Park came close to +him, he whispered that a party of armed men had seized his companion, +and shot two arrows at himself, as he was making his escape. Mr. Park +now stopped to consider what course it was most proper for him to +pursue, and looking round, saw, at a small distance, a man sitting on +the stump of a tree, and six or seven more sitting among the grass, +with muskets in their hands. He had now no hopes of escaping, and +therefore rode on towards them, in hopes they were elephant hunters. +On coming up to them, he inquired if they had caught any thing, when +one of them ordered him to dismount, but appearing suddenly to +recollect himself, made signs to him to proceed. He accordingly rode +past, but was soon followed by the men, who ordered him to stop, and +informed him, that the king of the Foulahs had sent them to bring him +his horse, and all that belonged to him, to Fooladoo. Mr. Park turned +round, and went with them, till they came to a dark part of the wood, +when one of them said, "This place will do," and immediately snatched +his hat from his head, another drew a knife, and cut off a metal +button that remained upon his waistcoat, and put it into his pocket. +They then searched Mr. Park's pockets, examined every part of his +apparel, and at length stripped him quite naked. While they were +examining the plunder, he begged them, with great earnestness, to +return his pocket-compass; but when he pointed it out to them, as it +lay on the ground, one of the banditti, thinking he meant to take it +up, cocked his musket, and swore he would lay him dead on the spot, +if he presumed to lay his hand upon it. After this, some went away +with his horse, and the remainder, after some deliberation, returned +him the worst of the two shirts and a pair of trousers; and on going +away, one of them threw back his hat, in the crown of which he kept +his memorandums. After they were gone, Mr. Park sat for some time, +looking around him with amazement and terror. "Whatever way I +turned," says he, "nothing appeared but danger and difficulty. I saw +myself in the midst of a vast wilderness, in the depth of the rainy +season, naked and alone, surrounded by savage animals, and men still +more savage. I was five hundred miles from the nearest European +settlement. All these circumstances crowded at once to my +recollection, and I confess that my spirits began to fail me. I +considered my fate as certain, and that I had no alternative but to +lie down and perish. The influence of religion, however, aided and +supported me. I reflected that no human prudence or foresight could +possibly have averted my present sufferings. I was indeed a stranger +in a strange land, yet I was still under the protecting eye of that +Providence, who has condescended to call himself the stranger's +friend. At this moment, painful as my reflections were, the +extraordinary beauty of a small moss in fructification irresistibly +caught my eye. I mention this, to show from what trifling +circumstances the mind will sometimes derive consolation, for though +the whole plant was not larger than the top of one of my fingers, I +could not contemplate the delicate conformation of its roots, leaves, +and capsules, without admiration. Can that Being, thought I, who +planted, watered, and brought to perfection, in this obscure part of +the world, a thing which appears of so small importance, look with +unconcern upon the situation and sufferings of creatures formed after +his own image? Surely not. Reflections like these would not allow me +to despair. I started up, and disregarding both hunger and fatigue, +travelled forwards, assured that relief was at hand, and I was not +disappointed." + +In a short time Mr. Park came to a small village, where he overtook +the two shepherds, who had come with him from Koona. They were much +surprised to see him, as they expected the Foulahs had murdered him. +Departing from this village, they travelled over several rocky +ridges, and at sunset arrived at the town of Sibidooloo. + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +Sibidooloo is the frontier town of Manding, and is situated in a +fertile valley, surrounded with high rocky hills. The chief man is +here called the mansa, which usually signifies king; but it appear +that the government of Manding is a sort of republic, as every town +has a particular mansa, and the chief power of the state is lodged in +an assembly of the whole body. + +Mr. Park related to the mansa the circumstance of the robbery, and +his story was confirmed by the two shepherds. The mansa continued +smoking his pipe while he heard the relation, when, tossing up the +sleeve of his coat with an indignant air, "Sit down," said he to Mr. +Park, "you shall have every thing restored to you. I have sworn it." +Then turning to an attendant, "Give the white man," said he, "a +draught of water, and with the first light of the morning go over the +hills, and inform the dooty of Bammakoo that a poor white man, the +king of Bambarra's stranger, has been robbed by the king of +Fouladoo's people." + +He heartily thanked the mansa for his kindness, and accepted his +invitation, but having waited two days without receiving any +intelligence, and there being a great scarcity of provisions, he was +unwilling to trespass further on the generosity of his host, and +begged permission to depart. The mansa told him, he might go as far +as a town called Wonda, and remain there until he heard some account +of his property. Accordingly, departing from that place, he reached +it on the 30th. The mansa of Wonda was a Mahometan and, as well as +chief magistrate of the town, was a schoolmaster. Mr. Park lodged in +the school, which was an open shed; the little raiment upon him could +neither protect him from the sun by day, nor the dews and mosquitoes +by night; his fever returned with great violence, and he could not +procure any medicine wherewith to stop its progress. He remained at +Wonda nine days, endeavouring to conceal his distress from his +landlord, for which purpose, he several times lay down the whole of +the day, out of his sight, in a field of corn, yet he found that the +mansa was apprised of his situation, for one morning as he feigned to +be asleep by the fire, he heard the mansa complain to his wife, that +they were likely to find him a very troublesome guest, as, in his +present sickly state, they should be obliged, for the sake of their +good name, to maintain him till he recovered or died. + +The scarcity of provisions was at this time severely felt by the poor +people. Mr. Park, having observed every evening five or six women +come to the mansa's house, and each receive a portion of corn, +inquired of the mansa, whether he maintained these women from +charity, or expected a return from the next harvest. "Observe that +boy," replied the Mansa, pointing to a fine child about five years of +age, "his mother has sold him to me for forty days' provisions for +herself and the rest of the family. I have bought another boy in the +same manner." + +Mr. Park was much afflicted with this melancholy circumstance, but he +afterwards observed that the mother, when she had received her corn, +would come and talk to her son with much cheerfulness, as if he had +still been under her care. + +On the 6th of September, two people arrived from Sibidooloo with Mr. +Park's horse and clothes; the pocket-compass was, however, broken to +pieces. The horse was now so much reduced, that he saw that it would +be impracticable to travel any further with him; he therefore +presented him to his landlord, and requested him to send the saddle +and bridle to the mansa of Sibidooloo, as an acknowledgment for his +trouble and kindness. + +On the morning of September 8th, Mr. Park took leave of his +hospitable landlord, who presented him with a spear, as a token of +remembrance, and a leathern bag to contain his clothes. On the 9th, +he reached Nemacoo, where he could not procure any provisions, as the +people appeared to be actually starving, but in the afternoon of the +10th, a negro trader, named Modi Lemina Taura, brought him some +victuals, promising to conduct him to his house at Kennyetoo on the +following day. + +In travelling to Kennyetoo, Mr. Park hurt his ankle, and was unable +to proceed. The trader, in consequence, invited him to stop with him +a few days, and accordingly he remained there until the 14th. + +On the 17th, he proceeded to Mansia, a considerable town, where small +quantities of gold are collected. The mansa of this town gave him a +little corn, but demanded something in return, and on Mr. Park's +assuring him that he had not anything in his possession, replied, as +if in jest, that his white skin should not defend him, if he told him +any falsehoods. He then conducted him to the hut wherein he was to +sleep, but took away his spear, saying it should be returned in the +morning. This circumstance raised Mr. Park's suspicions, and he +requested one of the inhabitants, who had a bow and quiver, to sleep +in the hut with him. About midnight a man made several attempts to +enter the hut, but was prevented by Mr. Park and the negro, and the +latter, on looking out, perceived it was the mansa himself. In the +morning, Mr. Park, fearing the mansa might devise some means to +detain him, departed before he was awake, the negro having recovered +the spear. + +On the arrival of Mr. Park at Kamalia, a small town, he proceeded to +the house of Karfa Taura, the brother of his hospitable landlord at +Kennyetoo. He was sitting in his balloon, surrounded by several +slatees, to whom he was reading from an Arabic book. He asked Mr. +Park if he understood it, and being answered in the negative, desired +one of the slatees to fetch the little curious book that was brought +from the west country. Mr. Park was surprised and delighted to find +this volume _"The Book of Common Prayer"_ and Karfa expressed great +joy to hear he could read it, as some of the slatees, who had seen +Europeans upon the coast, were unwilling, from his distressed +appearance, to admit that Mr. Park was a white man, but suspected +that he was some Arab in disguise. Karfa, however, perceiving he +could read this book, had no doubt concerning Mr. Park, and promised +him every assistance in his power, at the same time informing him, +that it was impossible to cross the Jallonka wilderness for many +months to come, as eight rapid rivers lay in the way. He added, that +he himself intended to set out for Gambia, with a caravan of slaves, +as soon as the rivers were fordable, and the grass burnt, and invited +Mr. Park to stay and accompany him, remarking that when a caravan +could not travel through the country, it was idle for a single man to +attempt it. Mr. Park admitted the rashness of the attempt, but +assured him that he had no alternative, for not having any money, he +must either beg his subsistence by travelling from place to place, or +perish from want. Karfa now looked at him with great earnestness, +informing him that he had never before seen a white man, and inquired +if he could eat the common victuals of the country. He added, that if +he would remain with him till the rains were over, he would conduct +him in safety to the Gambia, and then he might make him what return +he pleased. Mr. Park having agreed to give him the value of one prime +slave, he ordered a hut to be swept for his accommodation. + +Thus was Mr. Park delivered by the friendly care of this benevolent +negro, from a situation truly deplorable, but his fever became daily +more alarming. On the third day after his arrival, as he was going +with Karfa to visit some of his friends, he was so faint that he +staggered and fell into a pit; Karfa endeavoured to console him, and +assured him that if he would not walk out into the wet, he would soon +be well. Mr. Park followed his advice, and in general confined +himself to his hut, but was still tormented with the fever for five +ensuing weeks. His benevolent landlord came every day to inquire +after his health. When the rains became less frequent, the fever left +him, but in so debilitated a condition, that it was with great +difficulty he could get to the shade of a tamarind tree, at a short +distance, to enjoy the refreshing smell of the corn fields, and the +delightful prospect of the country. At length he found himself +recovering, towards which the benevolent manners of the negroes, and +the perusal of Karfa's little volume, greatly contributed. + +Meanwhile many of the slatees who resided at Kamalia, having spent +all their money, and become in a great measure dependent on Karfa's +bounty, beheld Mr. Park with envy, and invented many ridiculous +stories to lessen him in his host's esteem, but Karfa paid no +attention to them, and treated him with unabated kindness. As he was +one day conversing with some slaves, which a Serawoolli merchant had +brought from Sego, one of them begged him to give him some victuals, +Mr. Park replied, he was a stranger and had none to give. "I gave +_you_, some victuals" said the slave, "when _you_ were hungry. Have +you forgotten the man who brought you milk at Karrankalla? But," +added he with a sigh, "_the irons were not then on my legs_." Mr. +Park immediately recollected him, procured for him some ground nuts, +and learned that he had been taken by the Bambarrans, the day after +the battle at Joka, and sent to Sego, where he had been purchased by +his present master, who was carrying him to Kajaaga. + +In the middle of December, Karfa, who proposed to complete his +purchase of slaves, departed for Kancaba, a large town on the banks +of the Niger, and a great slave market. It was his intention to +return in a month, and during his absence left Mr. Park to the care +of a good old bushreen, who was schoolmaster at Kamalia. The name of +this schoolmaster was Fankooma, and although a Mahometan, was not +intolerant in his principles. He read much, and took great pleasure +in professional efforts. His school contained seventeen boys, mostly +of pagan parents, and two girls. The girls were taught by daylight, +but the boys were instructed before the dawn and late in the evening; +by being considered, while pupils, as the domestic slaves of the +master, they were employed by him during the day in various +avocations. Emulation is encouraged by their tutor to stimulate his +scholars. When the pupil has read through the Koran, and learned a +certain number of public prayers, he undergoes an examination by the +bushreens, who, when satisfied with his learning and abilities, +desire him to read the last page of the Koran. This being done, the +boy presses the paper to his forehead, and pronounces the word Amen; +upon which the bushreens rise, shake him by the hand, and bestow upon +him the title of bushreen. The parents then redeem their son, by +giving his master the value of a slave; but if they cannot afford it, +the boy continues the slave of the schoolmaster, until he ransoms +himself by his own industry. + +On the 24th January, Karfa returned to Kamalia, with thirteen prime +slaves, whom he had purchased. He also brought a young girl for his +fourth wife, whom he had married at Kancaba. She was kindly received +by her colleagues, who had swept and whitewashed one of the best huts +for her accommodation. + +On the day after his arrival, Karfa having observed that Mr. Park's +clothes were become very ragged, presented him with a garment and +trousers, the usual dress of the country. + +Karfa's slaves were all prisoners of war, who had been taken by the +Bambarran army. Some of them had been kept three years at Sego in +irons, whence they were sent with other captives up the Niger to +Yamina, Bammakoo and Kancaba, where they were sold for gold dust. +Eleven of them confessed that they had been slaves from their birth, +but the other two refused to give any account of themselves to Mr. +Park, whom they at first regarded with looks of horror, and +repeatedly asked _if his countrymen were cannibals_. They were very +desirous to know what became of the slaves after they had crossed the +salt water. Mr. Park told them that they were employed in cultivating +the land, but they would not believe him: and one of them putting his +hand upon the ground, said with great simplicity, "Have you really +got such ground as this to set your feet upon?" + +The slaves were constantly kept in irons, and strictly watched. To +secure them, the right leg of one and the left of another were +fastened by the same pair of fetters, by supporting which with a +string, they could walk very slowly. Every four slaves were also +fastened together by a rope of twisted thongs; and during the night +their hands were fettered, and sometimes a light iron chain was put +round their necks. Those who betrayed any symptoms of discontent, +were secured by a thick billet of wood about three feet long, which +was fastened to the ankle by a strong iron staple. All these fetters +were put on as soon as the slaves arrived at Kamalia, and were not +taken off until the morning they set out for the Gambia. In other +respects, the slaves were not harshly treated. In the morning they +were led to the shade of a tamarind tree, where they were encouraged +to keep up their spirits by playing different games of chance, or +singing. Some bore their situation with great fortitude, but the +majority would sit the whole of the day in sullen melancholy, with +their eyes fixed on the ground. In the evening, their irons being +examined, and their hand-fetters put on, they were conducted into two +large huts, and guarded during the night. Notwithstanding this +strictness, however, one of Karfa's slaves, about a week after his +arrival, having procured a small knife, opened the rings of his +fetters, cut the rope, and made his escape, and more might have got +off, had not the slave, when he found himself at liberty, refused to +stop to assist his companions in breaking the chain, which was round +their necks. + +All the merchants and slaves who composed the coffle, were now +assembled at Kamalia and its vicinity; the day of departure for the +Gambia was frequently fixed, and afterwards postponed. Some of the +people had not prepared their provisions, others were visiting their +friends, or collecting their debts; thus the departure was delayed +until February was far advanced, when it was determined to wait +_until the fast moon was over_. "Loss of time," observes Mr. Park, +"is of no great importance in the eyes of a negro. If he has any +thing of consequence to perform, it is a matter of indifference to +him whether he does it to-day or to-morrow, or a month or two hence; +so long as he can spend the present moment with any degree of +comfort, he gives himself very little concern for the future." + +The Rhamadam was strictly observed by the bushreens, and at the close +of it, they assembled at the Misura to watch for the new moon, but as +the evening was cloudy, they were for some time disappointed, and +several had returned home resolving to fast another day, when +suddenly the object of their wishes appeared from behind a cloud, and +was welcomed by clapping of hands, beating of drums, firing muskets, +and other demonstrations of joy. This moon being accounted extremely +lucky, Karfa gave orders that the people of the coffle should +immediately prepare for their journey, and the slatees having held a +consultation on the 16th of April, fixed on the 19th as the day of +departure. + +This resolution freed Mr. Park from much uneasiness, as he was +apprehensive, from the departure having been so long deferred, that +the rainy season would again commence before it took place, and +although his landlord behaved with great kindness, his situation was +very disagreeable. The slatees were unfriendly to him, and three +trading Moors, who had arrived at Kamalia during the absence of +Karfa, to dispose of salt procured on credit, had plotted mischief +against him from the day of their arrival; his welfare thus depended +merely upon the good opinion of an individual, who was daily hearing +tales to his prejudice. He was somewhat reconciled by time to their +manner of living, but longed for the blessings of civilized society. + +On the morning of April 19th, the coffle assembled and commenced its +journey. When joined by several persons at Maraboo and Bola, it +consisted of seventy-three persons, thirty-five of whom were slaves +for sale. The free men were fourteen in number, but several had wives +and domestic slaves, and the schoolmaster, who was going to his +native country Woradoo, had eight of his scholars. Several of the +inhabitants of Kamalia accompanied the coffle a short way on its +progress, taking leave of their relations and friends. On reaching a +rising ground, from which they had a prospect of the town, the people +of the coffle were desired to sit down facing the west, and the +town's people facing Kamalia. The schoolmaster and two principal +slatees, then placed themselves between the two parties, and repeated +a long and solemn prayer, after this they walked round the coffle +three times, pressing the ground with the end of their spears, and +muttering a charm. All the people of the coffle then sprang up and +set forwards, without formally bidding their friends farewell. The +slaves had all heavy loads upon their heads, and many of them having +been long in irons, the sudden exertion of walking quick, caused +spasmodic contractions of their legs, and they had scarcely proceeded +a mile, when two of them were obliged to be taken from the rope, and +suffered to walk more slowly. The coffle after halting two hours at +Maraboo, proceeded to Bola, thence to Worumbang, the frontier village +of Manding, towards Jallonkadoo. + +Here they procured plenty of provisions, as they intended shortly to +enter the Jallonka wilderness, but having on the 21st travelled a +little way through the woods, they determined to take the road to +Kinytakooro, a town in Jallonkadoo, and this being a long day's +journey distant, they halted to take some refreshment. Every person, +says Mr, Park, opened his provision bag, and brought a handful or two +of meal to the place where Karfa and the slatees were sitting. When +every one had brought his quota, and whole was properly arranged in +small gourd shells, the schoolmaster offered up a short prayer, the +substance of which was, that God and the holy prophets might preserve +them from robberies and all bad people, that their provisions might +never fail them, nor their limbs become fatigued. This ceremony being +ended, every one partook of the meal, and drank a little water, after +which they set forward, rather running than walking, until they came +to the river Kokoro. + +This river is a branch of the Senegal, its banks are very high, and +from various appearances it was evident, that the water had risen +above twenty feet perpendicular during the rainy season, but it was +then only a small stream sufficient to turn a mill, and abounding in +fish. The coffle proceeded with great expedition until evening, when +they arrived at Kinytakooro, a considerable town, nearly square, +situated in the midst of an extensive and fertile plain. + +In this day's journey, a woman and a girl, two slaves belonging to a +slatee of Bola, could not keep up with the coffle from fatigue. They +were dragged along until about four in the afternoon, when being both +affected with vomiting, it was discovered that _they had eaten clay_. +Whether this practice, which is frequent amongst the slaves, proceeds +from a vitiated appetite, or an intention to destroy themselves, is +uncertain. Three people remaining to take care of them, the slaves +were suffered to lie down in the woods until they were somewhat +recovered, but they did not reach the town until past midnight, and +were then so exhausted that their master determined to return with +them to Bola. + +Kinytakooro being the first town beyond the limits of Manding, great +ceremony was observed in entering it. The coffle approached it in the +following procession: first went the singing men, followed by the +other free men, then the slaves, fastened as usual by a rope round +their necks, four to a rope, and a man with a spear between each +party, after them the domestic slaves, and in the rear the free +women. When they came within a hundred yards of the gate, the singing +men began a loud song, extolling the hospitality of the inhabitants +towards strangers, and their friendship in particular to the +Mandingos. Arriving at the Bentang, the people assembled to hear +their _dentegi_ (history,) which was publicly recited by two of the +singing men. They began with the events of that day, and enumerated +every circumstance which had befallen the coffle in a backward +series, to their departure from Kamalia. When they had ended, the +chief men of the town gave them a small present, and every person of +the coffle, both free and enslaved, was entertained and lodged by the +inhabitants. + +On the 22nd of April, the coffle proceeded to a village seven miles +westward. The inhabitants of this village, expecting an attack from +the Foulahs of Fooladoo, were constructing small huts among the +rocks, on the side of a high hill. + +The situation was nearly impregnable, high precipices surrounded it +on every side but the eastern, where was left a path broad enough for +one person to ascend. On the brow of the hill were collected heaps of +large stones, to be thrown down upon the enemy, if an attack on the +post was attempted. + +The coffle entered the Jallonka wilderness on the 23rd. They passed +the ruins of two small towns, burnt by the Foulahs, and the fire had +been so intense as to vitrify the walls of several huts, which at a +distance appeared as if coloured with red varnish. The coffle crossed +the river Wonda, where fish were seen in great abundance. Karfa now +placed the guides and young men in the front, the women and slaves in +the centre, and the free men in the rear, and in this order they +proceeded through a woody beautiful country, abounding with +partridges, guinea fowls, and deer. At sunset they arrived at a +stream called Comeissang. To diminish the inflammation of his skin, +produced by the friction of his dress from walking, and long exposure +to the heat of the sun, Mr. Park took the benefit of bathing in the +river. They had now travelled about thirty miles, and were greatly +fatigued, but no person complained. Karfa ordered one of his slaves +to prepare for Mr. Park a bed made of branches of trees, and when +they had supped upon kouskous moistened with boiling water, they all +laid down, but were frequently disturbed by the howling of the wild +beasts, and the biting of small brown ants. + +The next morning, most of the free people drank some _noening_, a +sort of gruel, which was also given to the slaves that appeared least +able to travel, but a female slave of Karfa's who was called Nealee, +refused to partake of this refreshment, and was very sullen. The +coffle proceeded over a wild and rocky country, and Nealee, soon +overcome by fatigue, lagged behind, complaining dreadfully of pains +in her legs, on which her load was given to another slave, and she +was directed to keep in front. The coffle rested near a small +rivulet, and a hive of bees being discovered in a hollow tree, some +negroes went in quest of the honey, when an enormous swarm flew out, +and attacked the people of the coffle. Mr. Park, who first took the +alarm, alone escaped with impunity. The negroes at length again +collected together at some distance from the place where they were +dispersed, but Nealee was missing, and many of the bundles were left +behind. To recover these, they set fire to the grass eastward of the +hive, and as the wind drove the fire furiously along, they pushed +through the smoke, until they came to the bundles. They also found +poor Nealee lying by the rivulet, she had crept to the stream, hoping +to defend herself from the bees by throwing water over her body, but +she was stung dreadfully. The stings were picked out, and her wounds +washed and anointed, but she refused to proceed further. The slatees +by the whip forced her to proceed about four or five hours longer, +when, attempting to run away, she fell down with extreme weakness. +Again was the whip applied, but ineffectually; the unfortunate slave +was unable to rise. After attempting to place her upon an ass, on +which she could not sit erect, a litter of bamboo canes was made, +upon which she was tied with slips of bark, and carried on the heads +of two slaves for the remainder of the day. The coffle halted at the +foot of a high hill, called Gankaran-kooro. The travellers had only +eaten one handful of meal each during the day's journey, exposed to +the ardour of a tropical sun. The slaves were much fatigued, and +showed great discontent; several _snapt their fingers_, a certain +mark of desperation. They were all immediately put in irons, and +those who had shown signs of despondency were kept apart. + +In the morning, however, they were greatly recovered, except poor +Nealee, who could neither walk nor stand, she was accordingly placed +upon an ass, her hands being fastened together under the neck, and +her feet under the belly, to secure her situation. The beast, +however, was unruly, and Nealee was soon thrown off, and one of her +legs was much bruised. As it was found impossible to carry her +forward, the general cry of the coffle was, "_Kang tegi! kang tegi!_" +(Cut her throat! cut her throat!) Mr. Park proceeded forwards with +the foremost of the coffle, to avoid seeing this operation performed, +but soon after he learned that Karfa and the schoolmaster would not +agree to have her killed, but had left her on the road. Her fate +diffused melancholy throughout the whole coffle, notwithstanding the +outcry before mentioned, and the schoolmaster fasted the whole day in +consequence of it. The coffle soon after crossed the Furkoomah, a +river the same size as the Wonda, and travelled so expeditiously, +that Mr. Park with difficulty kept up with it. + +On the 26th April, the coffle ascended a rocky hill, called +Bokikooro, and in the afternoon, entering a valley, forded the Bold, +a smooth and clear river. About a mile westward of this river, +discovering the marks of horses' feet, they were afraid that a party +of plunderers were in the neighbourhood; and to avoid discovery and +pursuit, the coffle travelled in a dispersed manner through the high +grass and bushes. + +The following day, hoping to reach a town before night, they passed +expeditiously through extensive thickets of bamboos. At a stream +called Nuncolo, each person ate a handful of meal, moistened with +water, in compliance with some superstitious custom. In the +afternoon, they arrived at Sooseta, a Jallonka village, in the +district of Kullo, a tract of country lying along the banks of the +Black River; and the first human habitation they had met with in a +journey of five days, over more than a hundred miles. With much +difficulty they procured huts to sleep in, but could not obtain any +provisions, as there had been a scarcity before the crops were +gathered in, during which all the inhabitants of Kullo had subsisted +upon the yellow powder of the _nitta_, a species of the mimosa, and +the seeds of the bamboo, which, when properly prepared, tastes nearly +similar to rice. As the provisions of the coffle were not exhausted, +kouskous was dressed for supper, and several villagers were invited +to partake; meanwhile one of the schoolmaster's boys, who had fallen +asleep under the bentang, was carried off during the night; but the +thief, finding that his master's residence was only three days' +journey distant, thinking he could not be retained with security, +after stripping him, suffered him to return. + +They now crossed the Black River by a bridge of a curious +construction. Several tall trees are fastened together by the tops, +which float on the water, while the roots rest on the rocks on each +side of the river; these are covered with dry bamboos, and the whole +forms a passage, sloping from each end towards the middle, so as to +resemble an inverted arch. In the rainy season the bridge is carried +away, but the natives constantly rebuilt it, and on that account +exact a small tribute from every passenger. + +Being informed that, two hundred Jalonkas had assembled to intercept +and plunder the coffle, they altered their course, and about midnight +arrived at a town called Koba. They now discovered that a free man +and three slaves were missing; upon which it was concluded that the +slaves had murdered the free man, and made their escape, and six +people were sent back to the last village to endeavour to procure +information. Meanwhile the people of the coffle were ordered to +conceal themselves in a cotton field, and no person to speak but in a +whisper. Towards morning, the men returned, but without the object of +their pursuit. The coffle then entered the town, and purchased a +quantity of ground nuts, which were roasted for breakfast; and, being +provided with huts, determined to rest there for the day. They were +agreeably surprised by the arrival of their companions. One of the +slaves had hurt his foot, and as the night was dark, they had lost +sight of the coffle, when the free man, who was aware of his danger, +insisted on putting the slaves in irons, and as they were refractory, +threatened to stab them one by one with his spear; they at last +submitted, and in the morning followed the coffle to Koba. In the +course of the day, the intelligence concerning the Jalonka plunderers +was confirmed, on which Karfa, continuing at Koba until the 30th, +hired some persons for protectors, and they proceeded to a village +called Tinkingtang. + +On the following day, the slaves being greatly fatigued, the coffle +only proceeded nine miles, where provisions were procured by the +interest of the schoolmaster, who sent a messenger forward to +Malacotta, his native town, to acquaint his friends with his arrival, +and desire them to provide provisions for the entertainment of the +coffle for two or three days. + +They halted at another village further on until the return of the +messenger from Malacotta. About two the messenger returned, +accompanied by the schoolmaster's elder brother. "The interview," +says Mr. Park, "between the two brothers, who had not seen each other +for nine years, was very natural and affecting. They fell upon each +other's neck, and it was some time before either of them could speak. +At length, when the schoolmaster had a little recovered himself, he +took his brother by the hand, and turning round, 'This is the man,' +said he, pointing to Karfa, 'who has been my father in Manding. I +would have pointed him out sooner to you, but my heart was too +full.'" The coffle then proceeded to Malacotta, where they were well +entertained for three days, being each day presented with a bullock +from the schoolmaster. + +Malacotta is an unwalled town; the huts are made of unsplit canes +twisted into wicker work, and plastered over with mud. The +inhabitants are active and industrious; they make good soap by +boiling ground nuts in water, and adding a lye of wood ashes. They +also manufacture excellent iron, which they exchange in Bondou for +salt. + +A party of traders brought intelligence to this town of a war between +the king of Foota Torra and the king of the Jaloffs, which soon +became a favourite subject of conversation in this part of Africa. +Its circumstances were as follow:--Almami Abdulkader, king of Foota +Torra, inflamed with a zeal for propagating the religion of the +prophet, sent an ambassador to Damel, king of the Jaloffs, +accompanied by two principal bushreens, each bearing a long pole, to +the end of which was fixed a large knife. When admitted into the +presence of Damel, the ambassador ordered the bushreens to present +the emblems of his mission, which he thus explained:--"With this +knife," said he, "Abdulkader will condescend to shave the head of +Damel, if Damel will embrace the Mahometan faith; and with the other +knife, Abdulkader will cut the throat of Damel, if Darnel refuses to +embrace it. Take your choice." + +The king of the Jaloffs having told the ambassador he chose neither +of his propositions, civilly dismissed him. Abdulkader soon after +invaded Damel's dominions with a powerful army. As he approached, the +towns and villages were abandoned, the wells filled up, and their +effects carried off by the inhabitants. He advanced three days into +the country of the Jaloffs, without opposition; but his army had +suffered so greatly for want of water, that many of his men had died +by the way. This compelled him to march to a watering-place in the +woods, where his men, having quenched their thirst, and being +overcome with fatigue, lay down among the bushes to sleep. Thus +situated, they were attacked by the forces of Damel in the night, and +completely routed. King Abdulkader himself, with a great number of +his followers, being taken prisoners. The behaviour of the king of +the Jaloffs on this occasion we shall relate in Mr. Park's own words. +"When his royal prisoner was brought before him in irons, and thrown +upon the ground, the magnanimous Damel, instead of setting his foot +upon his neck, and stabbing him with his spear, according to custom +in such cases, addressed him as follows:--'Abdulkader, answer me this +question. If the chance of war had placed me in your situation, and +you in mine, how would you have treated me?'--'I would have thrust +my spear into your heart,' returned Abdulkader, with great firmness, +'and I know that a similar fate awaits me.'--'Not so,' said Damel; +'my spear is indeed red with the blood of your subjects killed in +battle, and I could now give it a deeper stain, by dipping it in your +own; but this would not build up my towns, nor bring to life the +thousands, who fell in the woods; I will not, therefore, kill you in +cold blood, but I will retain you as my slave, until I perceive that +your presence in your own kingdom will be no longer dangerous to your +neighbours, and then I will consider of the proper way of disposing +of you.' Abdulkader was accordingly retained, and worked as a slave +for three months, at the end of which period, Damel listened to the +solicitations of the inhabitants of Foota Torra. and restored to them +their king." + +The coffle resumed their journey on the 7th May, and having crossed a +branch of the Senegal, proceeded to a walled town, called Bentingala, +where they rested two days. In one day more, they reached Dindikoo, a +town at the bottom of a high ridge of hills, which gives the name of +Konkodoo to this part of the country; at Dindikoo was a negro of the +sort called in the Spanish West Indies, Albinos, or white negroes. +His hair and skin were of a dull white colour, cadaverous and +unsightly, and considered as the effect of disease. + +After a tedious day's journey, the coffle arrived at Satadoo, on the +evening of the 11th. Many inhabitants had quitted this town, on +account of the plundering incursions of the Foulahs of Foota Jalla, +who frequently carried off people from the corn fields and wells near +the town. + +The coffle crossed the Faleme river on the 12th, and at night halted +at a village called Medina, the sole property of a Mandingo merchant, +who had adopted many European customs. His victuals were served up in +pewter dishes, and his houses were formed in the mode of the English +houses on the Gambia. + +The next morning they departed, in company with another coffle of +slaves, belonging to some Serawoolli traders, and in the evening +arrived at Baniserile, after a very hard day's journey. + +Mr. Park was invited by one of the slatees, a native of this place, +to go home to his house. He had been absent three years, and was met +by his friends with many expressions of joy. When he had seated +himself upon a mat near the threshold of his door, a young woman, his +intended bride, brought some water in a calabash, and, kneeling +before him, requested him to wash his hands. This being done, the +young woman drank the water; an action here esteemed as the greatest +proof that can be given of fidelity and affection. + +Mr. Park now arrived on the shores of the Gambia, and on the 10th +June 1797 reached Pisania, where he was received as one risen from +the dead; for all the traders from the interior had believed and +reported, that, like Major Houghton, he was murdered by the Moors of +Ludamar. Karfa, his benefactor, received double the stipulated price, +and was overpowered with gratitude; but when he saw the commodious +furniture, the skilful manufactures, the superiority in all the arts +of life, displayed by the Europeans, compared with the attainments of +his countrymen, he was deeply mortified, and exclaimed "Black men are +nothing," expressing, at the same time his surprise, that Park could +find any motive for coming to so miserable a land as Africa. + +Mr. Park had some difficulty in reaching home. He was obliged to +embark on the 15th June, in a vessel bound to America, and was +afterwards driven by stress of weather, into the island of Antigua, +whence he sailed on the 24th November, and on the 22nd December +landed at Falmouth. He arrived in London before dawn on the morning +of Christmas day, and in the garden of the British Museum +accidentally met his brother-in-law, Mr. Dickson. Two years having +elapsed since any tidings had reached England, he had been given up +for lost, so that his friends and the public were equally astonished +and delighted by his appearance. The report of his unexpected return, +after making such splendid discoveries, kindled throughout the nation +a higher enthusiasm than had perhaps been excited by the result of +any former mission of the same nature. The Niger had been seen +flowing _eastward_, into the interior of Africa, and hence a still +deeper interest and mystery were suspended over the future course and +termination of this great central stream. Kingdoms had been +discovered, more flourishing and more populous than any formerly +known on that continent; but other kingdoms, still greater and +wealthier, were reported to exist in regions, which Mr. Park had +vainly attempted to reach. The lustre of his achievements had +diffused among the public in general an ardour for discovery, which +was formerly confined to a few enlightened individuals; it was, +however, evident that the efforts of no private association could +penetrate the depths of this vast continent, and overcome the +obstacles presented by its distance, its deserts, and its barbarism. + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +It was now thought advisable to trace, without interruption the +interesting career of Mr. Park, from its commencement to its close. +The enthusiasm for discovery was, however, not confined solely to +England; for the return of Park had no sooner reached Germany, than +Frederick Horneman, a student of the university of Gottingen, +communicated to Blumenbach, the celebrated professor of natural +history, his ardent desire to explore the interior of Africa under +the auspices of the British African Association. The professor +transmitted to the association a strong recommendation of Horneman, +as a young man, active, athletic, temperate, knowing sickness only by +name, and of respectable literary and scientific attainments. Sir +Joseph Banks immediately wrote, "If Mr. Horneman be really the +character you describe, he is the very person whom we are in search +of." + +On receiving this encouragement, Horneman immediately applied his +mind to the study of natural history and the Arabic language, and in +other respects sought to capacitate himself for supporting the +character of an Arab or a Mahometan, under which he flattered himself +that he should escape the effects of that ferocious bigotry, which +had opposed so fatal a bar to the progress of his predecessors. + +In May 1797, Horneman repaired to London, where his appointment was +sanctioned by the association, and having obtained a passport from +the Directory, who then governed France, he visited Paris, and was +introduced to some influential members of the National Institute. He +reached Egypt in September, spent ten days at Alexandria, and set out +for Cairo, to wait the departure of the Kashna caravan. The interval +was employed in acquiring the language of the Mograben Arabs, a tribe +bordering on Egypt. While he was at Cairo, intelligence was received +of the landing of Buonaparte in that country, when the just +indignation of the natives vented itself upon all Europeans, and, +amongst others, on Horneman, who was arrested and confined in the +castle. He was relieved upon the victorious entry of the French +commander, who immediately set him at liberty, and very liberally +offered him money, and every other supply which might contribute to +the success of his mission. + +It was not before the 5th September 1798, that Horneman could meet +with a caravan proceeding to the westward, when he joined the one +destined for Fezzan. The travellers soon passed the cultivated lands +of Egypt, and entered on an expanse of sandy waste, such as the +bottom of the ocean might exhibit, if the waters were to retire. This +desert was covered with the fragments, as it were, of a petrified +forest; large trunks, branches, twigs, and even pieces of bark, being +scattered over it. Sometimes these stony remains were brought in as +mistake for fuel. When the caravan halted for the night, each +individual dug a hole in the sand, gathered a few sticks, and +prepared his victuals after the African fashion of kouskous, soups, +or puddings. Horneman, according to his European habits, at first +employed the services of another, but finding himself thus exposed to +contempt or suspicion, he soon followed the example of the rest, and +became his own cook. + +There are, as usual, oases in this immense waste. Ten days brought +the caravan to Ummesogeir, a village situated upon a rock, with 120 +inhabitants, who, separated by deserts, from the rest of the world, +passed a peaceful and hospitable life, subsisting on dates, the chief +produce of their arid and sterile soil. + +Another day's journey brought them to Siwah, a much more extensive +oasis, the rocky border of which is estimated by Horneman to be fifty +miles in circumference. It yields, with little culture, various +descriptions of grain and vegetables; but its wealth consists chiefly +in large gardens of dates, baskets of which fruit form here the +standard of value. The government is vested in a very turbulent +aristocracy, of about thirty chiefs, who meet in council in the +vicinity of the town wall, and in the contests which frequently +arise, make violent and sudden appeals to arms. The chief question in +respect to Siwah is, whether it does or does not comprise the site of +the celebrated shrine of Jupiter Ammon, that object of awful +veneration to the nations of antiquity, and which Alexander himself, +the greatest of its heroes, underwent excessive toil and peril to +visit and to associate with his name. This territory does in fact +contain springs, and a small edifice, with walls six feet thick, +partly painted and adorned with hieroglyphics. There are also antique +tombs in the neighbouring mountains, but as the subsequent +discoveries of Belzoni and Edmonstone have proved that all these +features exist in other oases, scattered in different directions +along the desert borders of Egypt, some uncertainty must perhaps for +ever rest on this curious question. + +The route now passed through a region still indeed barren, yet not +presenting such a monotonous plain of sand as intervenes between +Egypt and Siwah. It was bordered by precipitous limestone rocks, +often completely filled with shells and marine remains. The caravan, +while proceeding along these wild tracts, were alarmed by a +tremendous braying of asses, and, on looking back, saw several +hundred of the people of Siwah, armed and in full pursuit, mounted on +these useful animals. The scouts, however, soon brought an assurance +that they came with intentions perfectly peaceable, having merely +understood that in the caravan there were two Christians from Cairo, +and on their being allowed to kill them, the others would be +permitted to proceed without molestation. All Horneman's address and +firmness were required in this fearful crisis. He opposed the most +resolute denial to the assertions of the Siwahans, he opened the +Koran, and displayed the facility with which he could read its pages. +He even challenged his adversaries to answer him on points of +mahommedan faith. His companions in the caravan, who took a pride in +defending one of their members, insisted that he had cleared himself +thoroughly from the imputation of being an infidel, and as they were +joined by several of the Siwahans, the whole body finally renounced +their bloody purpose, and returned home. + +The travellers next passed through Angila, a town so ancient as to be +mentioned by Herodotus, but now small, dirty, and supported solely by +the passage of the inland trade. They then entered the Black +Harutsch, a long range of dreary mountains, the _mons ater_ of the +ancients, through the successive defiles of which they found only a +narrow track enclosed by rugged steeps, and obstructed by loose +stones. Every valley too and ravine into which they looked, appeared +still more wild and desolate than the road itself. A scene of a more +gay and animated description succeeded, when they entered the +district of Limestone Mountains, called the White Harutsch. The rocks +and stones here appeared as if glazed, and abounded in shells and +other marine petrifactions, which on being broken had a vitrified +appearance. + +After a painful route of sixteen days through this solitary region, +the travellers were cheered by seeing before them the great oasis, or +small kingdom of Fezzan. Both at Temissa, the first frontier town, +and at Zuila, the ancient capital, which is still inhabited by many +rich merchants, they were received with rapturous demonstrations of +joy. The arrival of a caravan is the chief event which diversifies +the existence of the Fezzaners, and diffuses through the country +animation and wealth. At Mourzouk, the modern capital, the reception +was more solemn and pompous. The sultan himself awaited their arrival +on a small eminence, seated in an arm chair, ornamented with cloth of +various colours, and forming a species of throne. Each pilgrim, on +approaching the royal seat, put off his sandals, kissed the +sovereign's hand, and took his station behind, where the whole +assembly joined in a chant of pious gratitude. + +Fezzan, according to Horneman, has a length of 300, and a breadth of +200 miles, and is much the largest of all the oases, which enliven +the immense desert of Northern Africa. It relieves, however, in only +an imperfect degree, the parched appearance of the surrounding +region. It is not irrigated by a river, nor even a streamlet of any +dimensions; the grain produced is insufficient for its small +population, supposed to amount to 70,000 or 75,000 inhabitants, and +few animals are reared except the ass, the goat, and the camel. +Dates, as in all this species of territory, form the chief article of +land produce, but Fezzan derives its chief importance from being the +centre of that immense traffic, which gives activity and wealth to +interior Africa. Mourzouk, in the dry season, forms a rendezvous for +the caravans proceeding from Egypt, Morocco and Tripoli, to the great +countries watered by the western river. Yet the trade is carried on +less by the inhabitants themselves, than by the Tibboos, Tuaricks, +and other wandering tribes of the desert, concerning whom Horneman +collected some information, but less ample than Lyon and Denham +afterwards obtained from personal observation. Of Timbuctoo, he did +not obtain much information, Morocco being the chief quarter whence +caravans proceed to that celebrated seat of African commerce. In +regard, however, to the eastern part of Soudan, he received +intelligence more accurate than had hitherto reached Europe. Houssa +was for the first time understood to be, not a single country or +city, but a region comprehending many kingdoms, the people of which +are said to be the handsomest, most industrious, and most intelligent +in that part of Africa, being particularly distinguished for their +manufacture of fine cloths. Amongst the states mentioned, were +Kashna, Kano, Daura, Solan, Noro, Nyffe, Cabi, Zanfara and Guber. +Most or all of these were tributary to Bornou, described as decidedly +the most powerful kingdom in central Africa, and which really was so +regarded before the rise of the Fellatah empire caused in this +respect, a remarkable change. The Niger, according to the unanimous +belief in the northern provinces, was said to flow from Timbuctoo +eastward through Houssa, and holding the same direction till it +joined or rather became the Bahr-elabiad, the main stream of the +Egyptian Nile. Prevalent as this opinion is amongst the Arabs, late +discoveries have proved it to be decidedly erroneous; the river or +rivers which water Houssa, being wholly distinct from that great +stream which flows through Bambarra and Timbuctoo. + +Horneman, after remaining some time at Mourzouk, had resolved to join +a caravan about to proceed southwards into the interior, when +observing that the cavalcade consisted almost wholly of black +traders, any connexion or intercourse with whom was likely to afford +him little favour in the eyes of the Moors, he was induced to forego +this purpose; more especially as there was the greatest reason to +apprehend obstruction in passing through the country of the Turiacks, +then at war with Fezzan. He was informed besides, that caravans from +Bornou occasionally terminated their journey at Mourzouk, again +returning south; by which under more propitious circumstances he +hoped to accomplish his object. These considerations determined him +to postpone his departure, resolving in the mean while, with the view +of forwarding his despatches to the association, to visit Tripoli, +where, however, he did not arrive till the 19th August, 1799, having +been detained a considerable time by sickness. After remaining in +this city about three months he returned to Mourzouk, nor was it till +the 6th April, 1800, that he departed thence for the southward, in +company with two shereefs, who had given him assurances of friendship +and protection. His letters were filled with the most sanguine hopes +of success. But the lapse of two years without any tidings, threw a +damp on the cheering expectations then raised in the association and +the public. In September 1803, a Fezzan merchant informed Mr. Nissen, +the Danish consul of Tripoli, that Yussuph, as Horneman had chosen to +designate himself, was seen alive and well on his way to Gondasch, +with the intention of proceeding to the coast, and of returning to +Europe. Another moorish merchant afterwards informed Mr. M'Donogh, +British consul at Tripoli, that Yussuph was in safety at Kashna, in +June 1803, and was there highly respected as a mussulman, marabout or +saint. Major Denham afterwards learned that he had penetrated across +Africa as far as Nyffe, on the Niger, where he fell a victim, not to +any hostility on the part of the natives, but to disease and the +climate. A young man was even met with, who professed to be his son, +though there were some doubt as to the grounds of his claim to that +character. + +The association, when their expectations from Horneman had failed, +began to look round for other adventurers, and there were still a +number of active and daring spirits ready to brave the dangers of +this undertaking. Mr. Nicholls, in 1804, repaired to Calabar, in the +Gulf of Benin, with the view of penetrating into the interior by this +route, which appeared shorter than any other, but without any +presentiment that the termination of the Niger was to be found in +that quarter. He was well received by the chiefs on that coast, but +could not gain much information respecting that river, being informed +that most of the slaves came from the west, and that the navigation +of the Calabar stream, at no great distance was interrupted by an +immense waterfall, beyond which the surface of the country became +very elevated. Unfortunately, of all the sickly climates of Africa, +this is perhaps the most pestilential, and Mr. Nicholls, before +commencing his journey, fell a victim to the epidemic fever. + +Another German named Roentgen, recommended also by Blumenbach, +undertook to penetrate into the interior of Africa by way of Morocco. +He was described as possessing an unblemished character, ardent zeal +in the cause, with great strength both of mind and body. Like +Horneman, he made himself master of Arabic, and proposed to pass for +a Mahommedan. Having in 1809 arrived at Mogadore, he hired two +guides, and set out to join the Soudan caravan. His career, however, +was short indeed, for soon after his body was found at a little +distance from the place whence he started. No information could ever +be obtained as to the particulars of his death, but it was too +probably conjectured that his guides murdered him for the sake of his +property. + + + +CHAPTER X. + +We are now entering upon the narrative of a series of the most +extraordinary adventures which ever befel the African travellers, in +the person of an illiterate and obscure seaman, of the name of Robert +Adams, who was wrecked on the western coast of Africa, in the +American ship Charles, bound to the isle of Mayo, and who may be said +to have been the first traveller who ever reached the far-famed city +of Timbuctoo. + +The place where the Charles was wrecked was called Elgazie, and the +captain and the whole of the crew were immediately taken prisoners by +the Moors. On their landing, the Moors stripped the whole of them +naked, and concealed their clothes under ground; being thus exposed +to a scorching sun, their skins became dreadfully blistered, and at +night they were obliged to dig holes in the sand to sleep in, for the +sake of coolness. + +About a week after landing, the captain of the ship was put to death +by the Moors, for which the extraordinary reason was given, that he +was extremely dirty, and would not go down to the sea to wash +himself, when the Moors made signs for him to do so. + +After they had remained about ten or twelve days, until the ship and +its materials had quite disappeared, the Moors made preparations to +depart, and divided the prisoners amongst them. Robert Adams and two +others of the crew were left in the possession of about twenty Moors, +who quitted the sea coast, having four camels, three of which they +loaded with water, and the other with fish and baggage. At the end of +about thirty days, during which they did not see a human being, they +arrived at a place, the name of which Adams did not hear, where they +found about thirty or forty tents, and a pool of water surrounded by +a few shrubs, which was the only water they had met with since +quitting the coast. + +In the first week of their arrival, Adams and his companions being +greatly fatigued, were not required to do any work, but at the end of +that time, they were put to tend some goats and sheep, which were the +first they had seen. About this time, John Stevens arrived, under +charge of a Moor, and was sent to work in company with Adams. Stevens +was a Portuguese, about eighteen years of age. At this place they +remained about a month. + +It was now proposed by the Moors to Adams and Stevens, to accompany +them on an expedition to Soudenny to procure slaves. It was with +great difficulty they could be made to understand this proposal, but +the Moors made themselves intelligible by pointing to some negro +boys, who were employed in taking care of sheep and goats. Being in +the power of the Moors, they had no option, and having therefore +signified their consent, the party consisting of about eighteen +Moors, and the two whites, set out for Soudenny. + +Soudenny is a small negro village, having grass and shrubs growing +about it, and a small brook of water. For a week or thereabouts, +after arriving in the neighbourhood of this place, the party +concealed themselves amongst the hills and bushes, lying in wait for +the inhabitants, when they seized upon a woman with a child in her +arms, and two children (boys), whom they found walking in the evening +near the town. + +During the next four or five days, the party remained concealed, when +one evening, as they were all lying on the ground, a large party of +negroes, consisting of forty or fifty made their appearance, armed +with daggers, and bows and arrows, who surrounded and took them all +prisoners, without the least resistance being attempted, and carried +them into the town; tying the hands of some, and driving the whole +party before them. During the night above one hundred negroes kept +watch over them. The next day they were taken before the governor or +chief person, named Muhamoud, a remarkably ugly negro, who ordered +that they should all be imprisoned. The place of confinement was a +mere mud wall, about six feet high, from whence they might readily +have escaped, though strongly guarded, if the Moors had been +enterprising, but they were a cowardly set. Here they were kept three +or four days, for the purpose, as it afterwards appeared, of being +sent forward to Timbuctoo, which Adams concluded to be the residence +of the king of the country. At Soudenny, the houses have only a +ground floor, and are without furniture or utensils, except wooden +bowls, and mats made of grass. They never make fires in their houses. +After remaining about four days at Soudenny, the prisoners were sent +to Timbuctoo, under an escort of about sixty armed men, having about +eighteen camels and dromedaries. + +During the first ten days they proceeded eastward, at the rate of +about fifteen to twenty miles a day, the prisoners and most of the +negroes walking, the officers riding, two upon each camel or +dromedary. As the prisoners were all impressed with the belief that +they were going to execution, several of the Moors attempted to +escape, and in consequence, after a short consultation, fourteen were +put to death by being beheaded, at a small village at which they then +arrived, and as a terror to the rest, the head of one of them was +hung round the neck of a camel for three days, until it became so +putrid, that they were obliged to remove it. At this village, the +natives wore gold rings in their ears, sometimes two rings in each +ear. They had a hole through the cartilage of the nose, wide enough +to admit a thick quill, in which Adams saw some of the natives wear a +large ring of an oval shape, that hung down to the mouth. + +They waited, only one day at this place, and then proceeded towards +Timbuctoo. Shaping their course to the northward of east, and +quickening their pace to the rate of twenty miles a day, they +completed their journey in fifteen days. + +Upon their arrival at Timbuctoo, the whole party were immediately +taken before the king, who ordered the Moors into prison, but +treated Adams and the Portuguese boy as curiosities; taking them to +his house, they remained there during their residence at Timbuctoo. + +For some time after their arrival, the queen and her female +attendants used to sit and look at Adams and his companions for hours +together. She treated them with great kindness, and at the first +interview offered them some bread baked under ashes. + +The king and queen, the former of whom was named Woollo, the latter +Fatima, were very old grey-headed people. Fatima was like the +majority of African beauties, extremely fat. Her dress was of blue +nankeen, edged with gold lace round the bosom and on the shoulder, +and having a belt or stripe of the same material, half-way down the +dress, which came only a few inches down the knees. The dress of the +other females of Timbuctoo, though less ornamented than that of the +queen, was in the same sort of fashion, so that as they wore no close +under garments, they might, when sitting on the ground, as far as +decency was concerned, as well have had no covering at all. The +queen's head dress consisted of a blue nankeen turban, but this was +worn only upon occasions of ceremony, or when she walked out. Besides +the turban, she had her hair stuck full of bone ornaments of a square +shape, about the size of dice, extremely white; she had large gold +hoop ear-rings, and many necklaces, some of them of gold, the others +made of beads of various colours. She wore no shoes, and in +consequence, her feet appeared to be as hard and dry "as the hoofs of +an ass." + +The king's house or palace, which is built of clay and grass, not +whitewashed, consists of eight or ten small rooms on the ground +floor, and is surrounded by a wall of the same materials, against +part of which the house is built. The space within the wall is about +half an acre. Whenever a trader arrives, he is required to bring his +merchandize into this space, for the inspection of the king, for the +purpose of duties being charged upon it. The king's attendants, who +are with him during the whole of the day, generally consist of about +thirty persons, several of whom are armed with daggers, and bows and +arrows. Adams did not know if the king had any family. + +For a considerable time after the arrival of Adams and his companion, +the people used to come in crowds to stare at them, and he afterwards +understood that many persons came several days journey on purpose. +The Moors remained closely confined in prison, but Adams and the +Portuguese boy had permission to visit them. At the end of about six +months, a company of trading Moors arrived with tobacco, who after +some weeks ransomed the whole party. + +Timbuctoo is situated on a level plain [*], having a river about two +hundred yards from the town, on the south-east side, named La Mar +Zarah. The town appeared to Adams to cover as much ground as Lisbon. +He was unable to give any account of number of its inhabitants, +estimated by Caillié to amount to 10,000 or 12,000. The houses are +not built in streets, nor with any regularity, its population +therefore, compared with that of European towns, is by no means in +proportion to its size. It has no wall nor any thing resembling +fortification. The houses are square, built of sticks, clay, and +grass, with flat roofs of the same materials. The rooms are all on +the ground-floor, and are without any of furniture, except earthen +jars, wooden bowls, and mats made grass, upon which the people sleep. +He did not observe a houses, or any other buildings, constructed of +stone. The palace of the king he described as having walls of clay, +or clay and sand, rammed into a wooden case or frame, and placed in +layers, one above another, until they attained the height required, +the roof being composed of poles or rafters laid horizontally, and +covered with a cement or plaster, made of clay or sand. + +[Footnote: This account of Timbuctoo, as given by Adams, by no means +corresponds with that which was subsequently given by Caillié. The +latter makes it situated on a very elevated site, in the vicinity of +mountains; in fact the whole account of that celebrated city, as +given by Caillié, is very defective.] + +The river La Mar Zarah is about three quarters of a mile wide at +Timbuctoo, and appeared in this place to have but little current, +flowing to the south-west. About two miles from the town to the +southward, it runs between two high mountains, apparently as high as +the mountains which Adams saw in Barbary; here the river is about +half a mile wide. The water of La Mar Zarah is rather brackish, but +is commonly drunk by the natives, there not being, according to the +report of Adams, any wells at Timbuctoo. + +It must be remarked in this place, that at the time when Adams +related the narrative of his residence in Africa, and particularly in +the city of Timbuctoo, a very considerable degree of distrust was +attached to it; and in order to put the veracity of Adams to a +decisive test, the publication of his adventures was delayed until +the arrival of Mr. Dupuis, then the British vice-consul at Mogadore, +to whose interference Adams acknowledged himself indebted for his +ransom, and who, on account of his long residence in Africa, and his +intimate acquaintance with the manners and customs of the natives, +was fully competent to the detection of any imposition which it might +be the intention of Adams to practise upon those, who undertook the +publication of his adventures. From this severe ordeal Adams came out +fully clear of any intention to impose, and the principal points of +his narrative were corroborated by the knowledge and experience of +Mr. Dupuis. Thus that gentleman, in allusion to the description which +Adams gave of La Mar Zarah, mentions that the Spanish geographer +Marmol, who describes himself to have spent twenty years of warfare +and slavery in Africa, about the middle of the sixteenth century, +mentions the river La-ha-mar as a branch of the Niger, having muddy +and unpalatable waters. By the same authority, the Niger itself is +called Yea, or Issa, at Timbuctoo, a name which D'Anville has adopted +in his map of Africa. + +The vessels used by the natives are small canoes for fishing, the +largest of which are about ten feet long, capable of carrying three +men; they are built of fig-trees hollowed out, and caulked with +grass, and are worked with paddles about six feet long. + +The natives of Timbuctoo are a stout healthy race, and are seldom +sick, although they expose themselves by lying out in the sun at +mid-day, when the heat is almost insupportable to a white man. It is +the universal practice of both sexes to grease themselves all over +with butter produced from goat's milk, which makes the skin smooth, +and gives it a shining appearance. This is usually renewed every day: +when neglected, the skin becomes rough, greyish, and extremely ugly. +They usually sleep under cover at night, but sometimes, in the +hottest weather, they will lie exposed to the night air, with little +or no covering, notwithstanding that the fog, which rises from the +river, descends like dew, and, in fact, at that season supplies the +want of rain. + +All the males of Timbuctoo have an incision on their faces from the +top of the forehead down to the nose, from which proceed other +lateral incisions over the eyebrows, into all of which is inserted a +blue dye, produced from a kind of ore, which is found in the +neighbouring mountains. The women have also incisions on their faces, +but in a different fashion; the lines being from two to five in +number, cut on each cheek bone, from the temple straight down; they +are also stained with blue. These incisions being made on the faces +of both sexes when they are about twelve months old, the dyeing +material, which is inserted in them, becomes scarcely visible as they +grow up. + +With the exception of the king and queen, and their immediate +companions, who had a change of dress about once a week, the people +are in general very dirty, sometimes not washing themselves for +twelve or fourteen days together. Besides the queen, who, as has been +already stated, wore a profusion of ivory and bone ornaments in her +hair, some of a square shape, and others about as thick as a +shilling, but rather smaller, strings of which she also wore about +her wrists and ankles; many of the women were decorated in a similar +manner, and they seemed to consider hardly any favour too great to be +conferred on the person who would make them a present of these +precious ornaments. Gold ear-rings were much worn, some of the women +had also rings on their fingers, but these appeared to Adams to be of +brass; and as many of the latter had letters upon them, he concluded, +both from this circumstance and from their workmanship, that they +were not made by the negroes, but obtained from the moorish traders. + +The ceremony of marriage amongst the upper ranks at Timbuctoo is, for +the bride to go in the day-time to the king's house, and to remain +there until after sunset, when the man who is to be her husband goes +to fetch her away. This is usually followed by a feast the same +night, and a dance. Adams did not observe what ceremonies were used +in the marriages of the lower classes. + +As it is common to have several concubines besides a wife, the women +are continually quarrelling and fighting; there is, however, a marked +difference in the degree of respect with which they are treated by +the husband, the wife always having a decided pre-eminence. The +negroes, however, appeared to Adams to be jealous and severe with all +their women, frequently beating them apparently for very little +cause. + +The women appear to suffer very little from child-birth, and they +will be seen walking about as usual the day after such an event. It +is their practice to grease a child all over soon after its birth, +and to expose it for about an hour to the sun. The infants at first +are of a reddish colour, but become black in three or four days. + +Illicit intercourse appeared to be but little regarded amongst the +lower orders, and chastity among the women in general seemed to be +preserved only so far as their situations or circumstances rendered +it necessary for their personal safety or convenience. In the higher +ranks, if a woman prove with child, the man is punished with slavery, +unless he will take the woman for his wife, and maintain her. Adams +knew an instance of a young man, who, having refused to marry a woman +by whom he had a child, was on that account condemned to slavery. He +afterwards repented, but was not then permitted to retract his +refusal, and was sent away to be sold. + +It does not appear that they have any public religion, as they have +not any house of worship; no priest, and, as far as Adams could +discover, never meet together to pray. He had seen some of the +negroes, who were circumcised; but he concluded that they had been in +possession of the Moors, or had been resident at Sudenny. On this +subject Mr. Dupuis says, "I cannot speak with any confidence of the +religion of the negroes of Timbuctoo; I have, however, certainly +heard, and entertain little doubt, that many of the inhabitants are +Mahommedans; it is also generally believed in Barbary, that there are +mosques at Timbuctoo; but, on the other hand, I am confident that the +king is neither an Arab nor a Moor, especially as the traders, from +whom I have collected these accounts, have been either the one or the +other; and I might consequently presume, that, if they did give me +erroneous information on any points, it would at least not be to the +prejudice, both of their national self-conceit, and of the credit and +honour of their religion." + +The only ceremony which Adams saw, that appeared like the act of +prayer, was on the occasion of the death of any of the inhabitants, +when the relatives assembled and sat round the corpse. The burial is +not attended with any ceremony whatever; the deceased are buried in +the clothes in which they die, at a small distance to the south-west +of the town. + +Their only physicians are old women, who cure diseases and wounds by +the application of simples. Adams had a wen on the back of his right +hand, the size of a large egg, which one of the women cured in about +a month, by rubbing it and applying a plaster of herbs. They cure the +tooth-ache by the application of a liquid prepared from roots, which +frequently causes not only the defective tooth to fall out, but one +or two of the others. + +On referring to the notes of Mr. Dupuis on the subject of the cures +performed by the negro women, we read, "I may take this opportunity +of observing that he (Adams) recounted, at Mogadore, several stories +of the supernatural powers or charms possessed by some of the +negroes, and which practised both, defensively to protect their own +persons from harm, and offensively against their enemies. Of these +details I do not remember more than the following circumstance, +which, I think, he told me happened in his presence:-- + +"A negro slave, the property of a desert Arab, having been threatened +by his master with severe punishment, for some offence, defied his +power to hurt him, in consequence of a charm by which he was +protected. Upon this the Arab seized a gun, which he loaded with a +ball, and fired at only a few paces distant from the negro's breast; +but the negro, instead of being injured by the shot, stooped to the +ground and picked up the ball, which had fallen inoffensive at his +feet." + +It seems strange that Adams should have omitted their extraordinary +stories in his narrative; for he frequently expressed to Mr. Dupuis a +firm belief, that the negroes were capable of injuring their enemies +by witchcraft; and he once pointed out to him a slave at Mogadore, of +whom on that account he stood particularly in awe. He doubtless +imbibed this belief, and learned the other absurd stories, which he +related, from the Arabs, some of whom profess to be acquainted with +the art themselves, and all of whom are, it is believed, firmly +persuaded of its existence, and of the peculiar proficiency of the +negroes in it. + +It is perhaps not unreasonable to suppose, that having found his +miraculous stories, and his belief in witchcraft discredited and +laughed at, both at Mogadore and Cadiz, Adams should have at length +grown ashamed of repeating them, and even outlived his superstitious +credulity. This solitary instance of suppression may rather be +considered as a proof of his good sense, and as the exercise of a +very allowable discretion, than as evidence of an artfulness, of +which not a trace had been detected in any other part of his conduct. + +Dancing is the principal and favourite amusement of the natives of +Timbuctoo; it takes place about once a week in the town, when a +hundred dancers or more assemble, men, women, and children, but the +greater number are men. Whilst they are engaged in the dance, they +sing extremely loud to the music of the tambourine, fife, and +bandera, [*] so that the noise they make, may be heard all over the +town; they dance in a circle, and when this amusement continues till +the night, generally round a fire. Their usual time of beginning is +about two hours before sunset, and the dance not unfrequently lasts +all night. The men have the most of the exercise in these sports +while daylight lasts, the women continuing nearly in one spot, and +the men dancing to and from them. During this time, the dance is +conducted with some decency, but when night approaches, and the women +take a more active part in the amusement, their thin and short +dresses, and the agility of their actions are little calculated to +admit of the preservation of any decorum. The following was the +nature of the dance; six or seven men joining hands, surrounded one +in the centre of the ring, who was dressed in a ludicrous manner, +wearing a large black wig stuck full of kowries. This man at +intervals repeated verses, which, from the astonishment and +admiration expressed at them by those in the ring, appeared to be +extempore. Two performers played on the outside of the ring, one on a +large drum, the other on the bandera. The singer in the ring was not +interrupted during his recitations, but at the end of every verse, +the instruments struck up, and the whole party joined in loud chorus, +dancing round the man in the circle, stooping to the ground, and +throwing up their legs alternately. Towards the end of the dance, the +man in the middle of the ring was released from his enclosure, and +danced alone, occasionally reciting verses, whilst the other dancers +begged money from the by-standers. + +[Footnote: The bandera is made of several cocoa-nut shells, tied +together with thongs of goat-skin, and covered with the same +material; a hole at the top of the instrument is covered with strings +of leather, or tendons, drawn tightly across it, on which the +performer plays with the fingers, in the manner of a guitar.] + +It has been already stated, that Adams could not form any idea of the +population of Timbuctoo, but on one occasion he saw as many as +two-thousand assembled at one place. This happened when a party of +five hundred men were going out to make war on Bambarra [*]. The day +after their departure, they were followed by a great number of +slaves, dromedaries, and heiries laden with previsions. Such of these +people as afterwards returned, came back in parties of forty or +fifty; many of them did not return at all whilst Adams remained at +Timbuctoo; but he never heard that any of them had been killed. + +[Footnote: This statement, which is in opposition to the usual +opinion, that Timbuctoo is a dependency of Bambarra, receives some +corroboration from a passage in Isaaco's journal (p. 205.), where a +prince of Timbuctoo is accused by the king of Sego, of having, either +personally, or by his people, plundered two Bambarra caravans, and +taken both merchandise and slaves.] + +About once a month, a party of a hundred or more armed men marched +out in a similar manner, to procure slaves. These armed parties were +all on foot, except the officers; they were usually absent from one +week to a month, and at times brought in considerable numbers. The +slaves were generally a different race of people from those of +Timbuctoo, and differently clothed, their dress being for the most +part of coarse white linen or cotton. He once saw amongst them a +woman, who had her teeth filed round, it was supposed, by way of +ornament, and as they were very long, they resembled crow quills. The +greatest number of slaves that Adams recollects to have seen brought +in at one time, were about twenty, and these, he was informed, were +from a place called Bambarra, lying to the southward and westward of +Timbuctoo, which he understood to be the country, whither the +aforesaid parties generally went out in quest of them. + +The negro slaves brought to Barbary from Timbuctoo appear to be of +various nations, many of them distinguished by the make of their +persons and features, as well as by their language. Mr. Dupuis +recollects an unusually tall stout negress at Mogadore, whose master +assured him that she belonged to a populous nation of cannibals. He +does not know whether the fact was sufficiently authenticated, but it +is certain that the woman herself declared it, adding some revolting +accounts of her own feasts on human flesh. + +Adams never saw any individual put to death at Timbuctoo, the +punishment for heavy offences being generally slavery; for slighter +misdemeanours, the offenders are punished with beating with a stick; +but in no case is this punishment very severe, seldom exceeding two +dozen blows, with a stick of the thickness of a small walking-cane. + +The infrequency of the punishment of death in a community, which +counts human life amongst its most valuable objects of trade, is not, +however, very surprising; and considerable influence must be conceded +to the operation of self-interest, as well as to the feelings of +humanity, in accounting for this merciful feature, if it be indeed +merciful, in the criminal code of the negroes of Soudan. + +During the whole of the residence of Adams at Timbuctoo, he never saw +any other Moors than those whom he accompanied thither, and the ten +by whom they were ransomed; and he understood from the Moors +themselves, that they were not allowed to go in large bodies to +Timbuctoo. This statement bears on the face of it a certain degree of +improbability; but it loses that character when it is considered that +Timbuctoo, although it is become, in consequence of its frontier +situation, the port, as it were, of the caravans from the north, +which could not return across the desert the same season, if they +were to penetrate deeper into Soudan, is yet, with respect to the +trade itself, probably only the point whence it diverges to Houssa, +Tuarick, &c. on the east, and to Walet, Jinnie, and Sego, on the west +and south, and not the mart where the merchandise of the caravans is +sold in detail. Such Moors, therefore, as did not return to Barbary +with the returning caravan, but remained in Soudan until the +following season, might be expected to follow their trade to the +larger marts of the interior, and to return to Timbuctoo only to meet +the next winter's caravans. Adams arriving at Timbuctoo in February, +and departing in June, might therefore miss both the caravans +themselves and the traders, who remained behind in Soudan; and, on +the same principle, Park might find Moors carrying on an active trade +in the summer at Sansanding, and yet there might not be one at +Timbuctoo. + +Adams never proceeded to the southward of Timbuctoo, further than +about two miles from the town, to the mountains before spoken of; he +never saw the river Joliba or Niger, though he had heard mention made +of it. He was told at Tudenny, that the river lay between that place +and Bambarra. + +This apparently unimportant passage, affords on examination a strong +presumption in favour of the truth and simplicity of this part of +Adams' narrative. + +In the course of his examinations, almost every new inquirer +questioned him respecting the Joliba or Niger, and he could not fail +to observe, that because he had been at Timbuctoo, he was expected, +as a matter of course, either to have seen, or at least frequently to +have heard of that celebrated river. Adams, however, fairly admitted +that he knew nothing about it, and notwithstanding the surprise of +many of his examiners, he could not be brought to acknowledge that he +had heard the name even once mentioned at Timbuctoo. All that he +recollected was, that a river Joliba had been spoken of at Tudenny, +where it was described as lying in the direction of Bambarra. + +They who recollect Major Rennell's remarks respecting the Niger, in +his Geographical Illustrations, will not be much surprised that Adams +should not hear of the Joliba, from the natives of Timbuctoo. At that +point of its course, the river is doubtless known by another name, +and if the Joliba were spoken of at all, it would probably be +accompanied, as Adams states, with some mention of Bambarra, which +may be presumed to be the last country eastward, in which the Niger +retains its Mandingo name. + + + +CHAPTER XI. + +The ten Moors who had arrived with the five camels laden with +tobacco, had been three weeks at Timbuctoo, before Adams learnt that +the ransom of himself, the boy, and the Moors, his former companions, +had been agreed upon. At the end of the first week, he was given to +understand, that himself and the boy would be released, but that the +Moors would be condemned to die; it appeared however afterwards, that +in consideration of all the tobacco being given for the Moors, except +about fifty pounds weight, which was expended for a man slave, the +king had agreed to release all the prisoners. + +Two days after their release, the whole party consisting of the ten +moorish traders, fourteen moorish prisoners, two white men and one +slave quitted Timbuctoo, having only the five camels, which belonged +to the traders; those which were seized when Adams and his party were +made prisoners, not having been restored. As they had no means left +of purchasing any other article, the only food they took with them +was a little Guinea corn flour. + +On quitting the town they proceeded in an easterly course, inclining +to the north, going along the border of the river, of which they +sometimes lost sight for two days together. Except the two mountains +before spoken of to the southward, between which the river runs, +there are none in the immediate neighbourhood of Timbuctoo, but at a +little distance there are some small ones. + +They had travelled eastward about ten days, at the rate of about +fifteen or eighteen miles a day, when they saw the river for the last +time; it then appeared rather narrower than at Timbuctoo. They then +loaded the camels with water, and striking off in a northerly +direction, travelled twelve or thirteen days at about the same pace. + +At the end of this time they arrived at a place called Tudenny, or +Taudenny, a large village inhabited by Moors and negroes, in which +there are four wells of very excellent water. In this place there are +large ponds or beds of salt, which both the Moors and negroes come in +great numbers to purchase; in the neighbourhood the ground is +cultivated in the same manner as at Timbuctoo. From the number of +Moors, many, if not all of whom, were residents, it appeared that the +restriction respecting them, which was in force at Timbuctoo, did not +extend to Tudenny. + +The Moors here are perfectly black, the only personal distinction +between them and the negroes being, that the Moors had long black +hair, and had no scars on their faces. The negroes are in general +marked in the same manner as those of Timbuctoo. Here the party +stayed fourteen days to give the ransomed Moors, whose long +confinement had made them weak, time to recruit their strength; and +having sold one of the camels for two sacks of dates and a small ass, +and loaded the four remaining camels with water, the dates and the +flour, they set out to cross the desert, taking a north-west +direction. + +They commenced their journey from Tudenny about four o'clock in the +morning, and having travelled the first day about twenty miles, they +unloaded the camels, and laid down by the side of them to sleep. + +The next day they entered the desert, over which they continued to +travel in the same direction nine and twenty days, without meeting a +single human being. The whole way was a sandy plain like the sea, +without either tree, shrub or grass. After travelling in this manner +about fourteen days, at the rate of sixteen or eighteen miles a day, +the people began to grow very weak; their stock of water began to run +short, and their provisions were nearly exhausted. The ass died of +fatigue, and its carcass was immediately cut up and laden on the +camel, where it dried in the sun, and served for food, and had it not +been for this supply, some of the party must have died of hunger. +Being asked if ass's flesh was good eating, Adams replied, "It was as +good to my taste then, as a goose would be now." + +In six days afterwards, during which their pace was slackened to not +more than twelve miles a day, they arrived at a place, where it was +expected water would be found; but to their great disappointment, +owing to the dryness of the season, the hollow place, of about thirty +yards in circumference, was found quite dry. + +All their stock of water at this time consisted of four goat-skins, +and those not full, holding from one to two gallons each; and it was +known to the Moors, that they had then ten days further to travel +before they could obtain a supply. + +In this distressing dilemma it was resolved to mix the remaining +water with camels' urine. The allowance of this mixture to each camel +was only about a quart for the whole ten days; each man was allowed +not more than about half a pint a day. + +The Moors, who had been in confinement at Timbuctoo, becoming every +day weaker, three of them in the four following days lay down, unable +to proceed. They were then placed upon the camels, but continual +exposure to the excessive heat of the sun, and the uneasy motion of +the animals, soon rendered them unable to support themselves; and +towards the end of the second day, they made another attempt to +pursue their journey on foot, but could not. The following morning at +day-break, they were found dead on the sand, in the place where they +had lain down at night, and were left behind, without being buried. +The next day, another of them lay down, and, like his late +unfortunate companions, was left to perish; but on the following day, +one of the Moors determined to remain behind, in the hope that he, +who had dropped the day before, might still come up, and be able to +follow the party; some provisions were left with him. At this time it +was expected, what proved to be the fact, that they were within a +day's march of their town, but neither of the men ever after made his +appearance, and Adams has no doubt that they perished. + +Vled Duleim, the name of the place at which they now arrived, was a +village of tents, inhabited entirely by Moors, who, from their dress, +manners, and general appearance, seemed to be of the same tribe as +those of the encampment to which Adams was conveyed from El Gazie. +They had numerous flocks of sheep and goats, and two watering places, +near one of which their tents were pitched, but the other lay nearly +five miles off. + +Vled, or Woled D'leim, is the douar of a tribe of Arabs inhabiting +the eastern parts of the desert, from the latitude of about twenty +degrees north to the tropic. They are a tribe of great extent and +power, inhabiting detached fertile spots of land, where they find +water and pasturage for their flocks, but are very ignorant of the +commonest principles of agriculture. They are an extremely fine race +of men, their complexion very dark, almost as black as that of the +negroes. They have straight hair, which they wear in large +quantities, aqueline noses, and large eyes. Their behaviour is +haughty and insolent, speaking with fluency and energy, and appearing +to have great powers of rhetoric. Their arms are javelins and swords. + +The first fortnight after the arrival of the party was devoted to +their recovery from the fatigues of the journey; but as soon as their +strength was re-established, Adams and his companion were employed in +taking care of goats and sheep. Having now begun to acquire a +knowledge of the moorish tongue, they frequently urged their masters +to take them to Suerra, which the latter promised they would do, +provided they continued attentive to their duty. + +Things, however, remained in this state for ten or eleven days, +during which time they were continually occupied in tending the +flocks of the Moors. They suffered severely from exposure to the +scorching sun, in a state almost of utter nakedness, and the miseries +of their situation were aggravated by despair of ever being released +from slavery. + +The only food allowed to them was barley-flour and camels' and goats' +milk; of the latter, however, they had abundance. Sometimes they were +treated with a few dates, which were a great rarity, there being +neither date-trees, nor trees of any other kind, in the whole of the +country round. But as the flocks of goats and sheep consisted of a +great number, from one hundred and fifty to two hundred, and as they +were at a distance from the town, Adams and his companion sometimes +ventured to kill a kid for their own eating, and to prevent discovery +of the fire used in cooking it, they dug a cave, in which a fire was +made, covering the ashes with grass and sand. + +At length, Adams, after much reflection on the miserable state in +which he had been so long kept, and was likely to pass the remainder +of his life, determined to remonstrate upon the subject. His master, +whose name was Hamet Laubed, frankly replied to him, that as he had +not been successful in procuring slaves, it was now his intention to +keep him, and not, as he had before led him to expect, to take him to +Suerra or Mogadore. Upon hearing this, Adams resolved not to attend +any longer to the duty of watching the goats and sheep; and in +consequence, the following day, several of the young goats were found +to have been killed by the foxes. + +This led to an inquiry, whether Adams or the boy was in fault, when +it appearing that the missing goats were a part of Adams' flock, his +master proceeded to beat him with a thick stick; he, however, +resisted, and took away the stick, upon which a dozen Moors, +principally women, attacked him, and gave him a severe beating. + +As, notwithstanding what had occurred, Adams persisted in his +determination not to resume his task of tending the goats and sheep, +his master was advised to put him to death, but this he was not +inclined to do, observing to his advisers, that he should thereby +sustain a loss, and that if Adams would not work, it would be better +to sell him. In the mean time, he remained idle in the tent for three +days, when he was asked by his master's wife if he would go to the +distant well, to fetch a couple of skins of water, it being of a +better quality; to which he signified his consent, and went off the +next morning on a camel, with two skins to fetch the water. + +On his arrival at the other well, instead of procuring water, he +determined to make his escape; and understanding that the course to a +place called Wadinoon lay in a direction to the northward of west, he +passed the well, and pushing on in a northerly course, travelled the +whole of that day, when the camel, which had been used to rest at +night, and had not been well broken in, would not proceed any +further, and in spite of all the efforts Adams could make, it lay +down with fatigue, having gone upwards of twenty miles without +stopping. Finding there was not any remedy, Adams took off the rope, +with which his clothes were fastened round his body, and as the camel +lay with his fore knee bent, he tied the rope round it in a way to +prevent its rising, and then laid down by the side of it. This rope, +which Adams had brought from Timbuctoo, was made of grass, collected +on the banks of the river. + +The next morning, at daylight, he mounted again, and pushed on till +about nine o'clock, when he perceived some smoke in advance of him, +which he approached. There was a small hillock between him and this +place, ascending which, he discovered about forty or fifty tents +pitched, and on looking back, he saw two camels coming towards him, +with a rider on each. Not knowing whether these were in pursuit of +him, or strangers going to the place in view, but being greatly +alarmed, he made the best of his way forward. On drawing near to the +town, a number of women came out, and he observed about a hundred +Moors standing in a row, in the act of prayer, having their faces +towards the east, and at times kneeling down, and leaning their heads +to the ground. On the women discovering Adams, they expressed great +surprise at seeing a white man. He inquired of them the name of the +place, and they told him it was Hilla Gibla. Soon afterwards the two +camels, before spoken of, arriving, the rider of one of them proved +to be the owner of the camel on which Adams had escaped, and the +other his master. At this time Adams was sitting under a tent, +speaking to the governor, whose name was Mahomet, telling him his +story; they were soon joined by his two pursuers, accompanied by a +crowd of people. + +Upon his master claiming him, Adams protested that he would not go +back; that his master had frequently promised to take him to Suerra, +but had broken his promises, and that he had made up his mind either +to obtain his liberty or die. Upon hearing both sides, the governor +determined in favour of Adams, and gave his master to understand, +that if he was willing to exchange him for a bushel of dates and a +camel, he should have them; but if not, he should have nothing. As +Adams' master did not approve of these conditions, a violent +altercation arose, but at length, finding the governor determined, +and that better terms were not to be had, he accepted the first +offer, and Adams became the slave of Mahomet. + +The natives of Hilla Gibla or El Kabla, appeared to be better +clothed, and a less savage race than those of Woled D'leim, between +whom there appeared to be great enmity. The governor, therefore, +readily interfered in favour of Adams, and at one time threatened to +take away the camel, and to put Mahomet Laubed to death. Another +consideration by which the governor was probably influenced, was a +knowledge of the value of a Christian slave, as an object of ransom, +of which Mahomet Laubed seemed to be wholly ignorant. + +On entering the service of his new master, Adams was sent to tend +camels, and had been so employed about a fortnight, when this duty +was exchanged for that of taking care of goats. Mahomet had two +wives, who dwelt in separate tents, one of them an old woman, the +other a young one; the goats which Adams was appointed to take care +of, were the property of the elder one. + +Some days after he had been so employed, the younger wife, whose name +was Isha, or Aisha, proposed to him that he should also take charge +of her goats, for which she would remunerate him, and as there was no +more trouble in tending two flocks than one, he readily consented. +Having had charge of the two flocks for several days, without +receiving the promised additional reward, he at length remonstrated, +and after some negotiation on the subject of his claim, the matter +was compromised by the young woman's desiring him, when he returned +from tending the goats at night, to go to rest in her tent. It was +the custom of Mahomet, to sleep two nights with the elder woman, and +one with the other, and this was one of the nights devoted to the +former. Adams accordingly kept the appointment, and about nine +o'clock Aisha came and gave him supper, and he remained in her tent +all night. This was an arrangement which was afterwards continued on +those nights, which she did not pass with her husband. + +Things continued in this state for about six months, and as his work +was light, and he experienced nothing but kind treatment, his time +passed pleasantly enough. One night his master's son coming into the +tent, discovered Adams with his mother-in-law, and informed his +father, when a great disturbance took place; but upon the husband +charging his wife with her misconduct, she protested that Adams had +laid down in her tent without her knowledge or consent, and as she +cried bitterly, the old man appeared to be convinced that she was not +to blame. The old lady, however, declared her belief that the young +one was guilty, and expressed her conviction that she should be able +to detect her at some future time. + +For some days after, Adams kept away from the lady, but at the end of +that time, the former affair appearing to be forgotten, he resumed +his visits. One night, the old woman lifted up the corner of the +tent, and discovered Adams with Aisha, and having reported it to her +husband, he came with a thick stick, threatening to put him to death. +Adams being alarmed, made his escape, and the affair having made a +great deal of noise, an acquaintance proposed to Adams to conceal him +in his tent, and to endeavour to buy him off the governor. Some +laughed at the adventure; others, and they by far the greater part, +treated the matter as an offence of the most atrocious nature, Adams +being "a Christian, who never prayed." + +As his acquaintance promised, in the event of becoming a purchaser, +to take him to Wadinoon, Adams adopted his advice, and concealed +himself in his tent. For several days, the old governor rejected +every overture, but at last he agreed to part with Adams for fifty +dollars worth of goods, consisting of blankets and dates, and thus he +became the property of Boerick, a trader, whose usual residence was +at El Kabla. + +The frail one ran away to her mother. + +The next day Boerick set out with a party of six men and four camels, +for a place called, according to the phraseology of Adams, Villa de +Bousbach, but the real name of which was Woled Aboussebah, which they +reached after travelling nine days at the rate of about eighteen +miles a day, directing their course to the north-east. On their route +they saw neither houses nor trees, but the ground was covered with +grass and shrubs. At this place they found about forty or fifty +tents, inhabited by the Moors, and remained five or six days; when +there, a Moor, named Abdallah Houssa, a friend of Boerick, arrived +from a place called Hieta Mouessa Ali, who informed him that it was +usual for the British consul at Mogadore, to send to Wadinoon, where +this man resided, to purchase the Christians who were prisoners in +that country, and that as he was about to proceed thither, he was +willing to take charge of Adams, to sell him for account of Boerick; +at the same time, he informed Adams that there were other Christians +at Wadinoon. This being agreed to by Boerick, his friend set out in a +few days after for Hieta Mouessa Ali, taking Adams with him. Instead, +however, of going to that place, which lay due north, they proceeded +north-north-west, and as they had a camel each, and travelled very +fast, the path being good, they went at the rate of twenty-five miles +a day, and in six days reached a place called Villa Adrialla, [*] +where there were about twenty tents. This place appeared to be +inhabited entirely by traders, who had at least five hundred camels, +a great number of goats and sheep, and a few horses. The cattle were +tended by negro slaves. Here they remained about three weeks, until +Abdallah had finished his business, and then set out for Hieta +Mouessa Ali, where they arrived in three days. Adams believed that +the reason of their travelling so fast during the last stage was, +that Abdallah was afraid of being robbed, of which he seemed to have +no apprehension after he had arrived at Villa Adrialla, and therefore +they travelled from that place to Hieta Mouessa Ali, at the rate of +only about sixteen or eighteen miles a day; their course being due +north-west. + +[Footnote: It is the opinion of Mr. Dupuis, that this place should be +written _Woled Adrialla_, but he has no knowledge of it.] + +Hieta Mouessa Ali was the largest place which Adams saw, in which +there were no houses, there being not less than a hundred tents. +There was here a small brook issuing from a mountain, being the only +one he had seen except that at Soudenny; but the vegetation was not +more abundant than at other places. They remained here about a month, +during which Adams was as usual employed in tending camels. As the +time hung very heavy on his hands, and he saw no preparation for +their departure for Wadinoon, and his anxiety to reach that place had +been very much excited, by the intelligence that there were other +Christians there, he took every opportunity of making inquiry +respecting the course and distance; and being at length of opinion +that he might find his way thither, he one evening determined to +desert, and accordingly he set out foot alone, with a small supply of +dried goats' flesh, relying upon getting a further supply at the +villages, which he understood were on the road. He had travelled the +whole of that night, and until about noon the next day, without +stopping, when he was overtaken by a party of three or four men on +camels, who had been sent in pursuit of him. It seems they expected +that Adams had been persuaded to leave Hieta Mouessa Ali, by some +persons who wished to take him to Wadinoon for sale, and they were +therefore greatly pleased to find him on foot and alone. Instead of +ill treating him as he apprehended they would do, they merely +conducted him back to Hieta Mouessa Ali, from whence in three or four +days afterwards Abdallah and a small party departed, taking him with +them. They travelled five days in a north-west direction at about +sixteen miles a day, and at the end of the fifth day, reached +Wadinoon. Having seen no habitations on their route, except a few +scattered tents within a day's journey of that town. + +The inhabitants of Wadinoon are descended from the tribe Woled +Aboussebah, and owe their independence to its support, for the Arabs +of Aboussebah being most numerous on the northern confines of the +desert, present a barrier to the extension of the emperor of +Morocco's dominion in that direction. + +They have frequent wars with their southern and eastern neighbours, +though without any important results; the sterility of the soil +throughout the whole of the region of sand, affording little +temptation to its inhabitants to dispossess each other of their +territorial possessions. + + + +CHAPTER XII. + +Wadinoon or Wednoon, was the first place at which Adams had seen +houses after he quitted Tudenny. It is a small town, consisting of +about forty houses and some tents. The former are built chiefly of +clay, intermixed with stone in some parts, and several of them have a +story above the ground-floor. The soil in the neighbourhood of the +town was better cultivated than any he had yet seen in Africa, and +appeared to produce plenty of corn and tobacco. There were also date +and fig trees in the vicinity, as well as a few grapes, apples, +pears, and pomegranates. Prickly pears flourished in great abundance. + +The Christians whom Adams had heard of, whilst residing at Hieta +Mouessa Ali, and whom he found at Wadinoon, proved to be, to his +great satisfaction, his old companions, Stephen Dolbie the mate, and +James Davison and Thomas Williams, two of the seamen of the Charles. +They informed him, that they had been in that town upwards of twelve +months, and that they were the property of the sons of the governor. + +Soon after the arrival of Adams at Wadinoon, Abdallah offered him for +sale to the governor or sheik, called Amedallah Salem, who consented +to take him upon trial; but after remaining a week at the governor's +house, Adams was returned to his old master, as the parties could not +agree upon the price. He was at length, however, sold to Belcassam +Abdallah for seventy dollars in trade, payable in blankets, +gunpowder, and dates. + +The only other white resident at Wadinoon was a Frenchman, who +informed Adams that he had been wrecked about twelve years before on +the neighbouring coast, and that the whole of the crew, except +himself, had been redeemed. This man had turned Mahommedan, and was +named Absalom; he had a wife and child and three slaves, and gained a +good living by the manufacture of gunpowder. He lived in the same +house as the person who had been his master, and who, upon his +renouncing his religion, gave him his liberty. + +Among the negro slaves at Wadinoon was a woman, who said she came +from a place called Kanno, (Cano?) a long way across the desert, and +that she had seen in her own country white men, as white as "bather," +meaning the wall, and in a large boat, with two high sticks in it, +with cloth upon them, and that they rowed this boat in a manner +different from the custom of the negroes, who use paddles; in stating +this, she made the motion of rowing with oars, so as to leave no +doubt that she had seen a vessel in the European fashion, manned by +white people. + +The work in which Adams was employed at Wadinoon, was building walls, +cutting down shrubs to make fences, or working on the corn lands, or +on the plantations of tobacco, of which a great quantity is grown in +the neighbourhood. It was in the month of August that he arrived +there, as he was told by the Frenchman before spoken of; the grain +had been gathered, but the tobacco was then getting in, at which he +was required to assist. His labour at this place was extremely +severe. On the moorish sabbath, which was also their market-day, the +Christian slaves were not required to labour, unless on extraordinary +occasions, when there was any particular work to do, which could not +be delayed. In these intervals of repose, they had opportunity of +meeting and conversing together, and Adams had the melancholy +consolation of finding that the lot of his companions had been even +more severe than his own. It appeared that, on their arrival, the +Frenchman before mentioned, from some unexplained motive, had advised +them to refuse to work, and the consequence was, that they had been +cruelly beaten and punished, and had been made to work and live hard, +their only scanty food being barley flour and indian corn flour. +However, on extraordinary occasions, and as a great indulgence, they +sometimes obtained a few dates. + +In this wretched manner Adams and his fellow-captives lived until the +June following, when a circumstance occurred, which had nearly cost +the former his life. His master's son, Hameda Bel Cossim, having one +sabbath-day ordered Adams to take the horse and go to plough, the +latter refused to obey him, urging that it was not the custom of any +slaves to work on the sabbath-day, and that he was entitled to the +same indulgence as the rest. Upon which Hameda went into the house +and fetched a cutlass, and then demanded of Adams, whether he would +go to plough or not. Upon his replying that he would not, Hameda +struck him on the forehead with the cutlass, and gave him a severe +wound over the right eye, and immediately knocked him down with his +fist. This was no sooner done, than Adams was set upon by a number of +Moors, who beat him with sticks in so violent a manner, that the +blood came out of his mouth, two of his double teeth were knocked +out, and he was almost killed; it was his opinion that they would +have entirely killed him, had it not been for the interference of +Boadick, the sheik's son, who reproached them for their cruelty, +declaring that they had no right to compel Adams to work on a +market-day. The next day Hameda's mother, named Moghtari, came to +him, and asked him how he dared to lift his hand against a Moor? To +which Adams, driven to desperation by the ill treatment he had +received, replied, that he would even take his life, if it were in +his power. Moghtari then said, that unless he would kiss Hameda's +hands and feet, he should be put in irons, which he peremptorily +refused to do. Soon after. Hameda's father came to Adams, and told +him, that unless he did kiss his son's feet and hands, he must be put +in irons. Adams then stated to him, that he could not submit to do +so; that it was contrary to his religion to kiss the hands and feet +of any person; that in his own country he had never been required to +do it; and that, whatever might be the consequence, he would not do +it. Finding he would not submit, the old man ordered that he should +be put in irons, and accordingly they fastened his feet together with +iron chains, and did the same by his hands. After he had remained in +this state about ten days, Moghtari came to him again, urging him to +do as required, and declaring that, if he did not, he should never +see the Christian country again. Adams, however, persevered in +turning a deaf ear to her entreaties and threats. Some time +afterwards, finding that confinement was destructive of his health, +Hameda came to him, and took the irons from his hands. The following +three weeks, he remained with the irons on his legs, during which +time, repeated and pressing entreaties, and the most dreadful threats +were used to induce him to submit; but all to no purpose. He was also +frequently advised by the mate and the other Christians, who used to +be sent to him, for the purpose of persuading him to submit, as he +must otherwise inevitably lose his life. At length, finding that +neither threats nor entreaties would avail, and Adams having remained +in irons from June to the beginning of August, and his sufferings +having reduced him almost to a skeleton, his master was advised to +sell him; for, if longer confined, he would certainly die, and +thereby prove a total loss. Influenced by this consideration, his +master at last determined to release him from his confinement; but, +although very weak, the moment he was liberated, he was set to +gathering in the corn. + +About a week afterwards, Dolbie, the mate, fell sick. Adams had +called to see him, when Dolbie's master, named Brahim, a son of the +sheik, ordered him to get up and go to work, and upon Dolbie +declaring that he was unable, Brahim beat him with a stick, to compel +him to go; but as he still did not obey, Brahim threatened that he +would kill him; and upon Dolbie's replying, that he had better do so +at once than kill him by inches, Brahim stabbed him in the side with +his dagger, and he died in a few minutes. As soon as he was dead, he +was taken by some slaves a short distance from the town, where a hole +was dug, into which he was thrown without ceremony. As the grave was +not deep, and as it frequently happened that corpses after burial +were dug out of the ground by the foxes, Adams and his two surviving +companions went the next day and covered the grave with stones. + +As the Moors were constantly urging them to become Mahommedans, and +they were unceasingly treated with the greatest brutality, the +fortitude of Williams and Davison being exhausted, they at last +unhappily consented to renounce their religion, and were circumcised; +by this means they obtained their liberty, after which they were +presented with a horse, a musket, and a blanket each, and permitted +to marry; no Christian being allowed, at any place inhabited by +Moors, to take a wife, or to cohabit with a moorish woman. + +As Adams was now the only remaining Christian at Wadinoon, he became +in a more especial manner an object of the derision and persecution +of the Moors, who were constantly upbraiding and reviling him, and +telling him that his soul would be lost, unless he became a +Mahommedan, insomuch that his life was becoming intolerable. + +Mr. Dupuis, speaking of the conduct which Adams received from the +Moors, says, "I can easily believe Adams' statement of the brutal +treatment he experienced at Wadinoon. It is consistent with the +accounts I have always heard of the people of that country, who I +believe to be more bigoted and cruel than even the remoter +inhabitants of the desert. In the frequent instances which have come +under my observation, the general effect of the treatment of the +Arabs on the minds of the Christian captives, has been most +deplorable. On the first arrival of these unfortunate men at +Mogadore, if they have been any considerable time in slavery, they +appear lost to reason and feeling, their spirits broken, and their +whole faculties sunk in a species of stupor, which I am unable +adequately to describe. Habited like the meanest Arabs of the desert, +they appear degraded even below the negro slave. The succession of +hardships, which they endure, from the caprice and tyranny of their +purchasers, without any protecting law to which they can appeal for +alleviation or redress, seems to destroy every spring of exertion or +hope in their minds; they appear indifferent to every thing around +them; abject, servile, and brutified." + +"Adams alone was, in some respects, an exception from this +description. I do not recollect any ransomed Christian slave, who +discovered a greater elasticity of spirit, or who sooner recovered +from the indifference and stupor here described." + +It is to be remarked, that the Christian captives are invariably +worse treated than the idolatrous or pagan slaves, whom the Arabs, +either by theft or purchase, bring from the interior of Africa, and +that religious bigotry is the chief cause of this distinction. The +zealous disciples of Mahomet consider the negroes merely as ignorant, +unconverted beings, upon whom, by the act of enslaving them, they are +conferring a benefit, by placing them within reach of instruction in +"the true belief;" and the negroes, having no hopes of ransom, and +being often enslaved when children, are in general, soon converted to +the Mahommedan faith. The Christians, on the contrary, are looked +upon as hardened infidels, and as deliberate despisers of the +prophet's call; and as they in general steadfastly reject the +Mahommedan creed, and at least never embrace it, whilst they have +hopes of ransom; the Moslim, consistently with the spirit of many +passages in the Koran, views them with the bitterest hatred, and +treats them with every insult and cruelty which a merciless bigotry +can suggest. + +It is not to be understood that the Christian slaves, though +generally ill treated and inhumanly worked by their Arab owners, are +persecuted by them ostensibly on account of their religion. They, on +the contrary, often encourage the Christians to resist the +importunities of those who wish to convert them; for, by embracing +Islamism, the Christian slave obtains his freedom, and however ardent +may be the zeal of the Arab to make proselytes, it seldom blinds him +to the calculations of self-interest. + +Three days after Williams and Davison had renounced their religion, a +letter was received from Mr. Dupuis, addressed to the Christian +prisoners at Wadinoon, under cover to the governor, in which the +consul, after exhorting them most earnestly not to give up their +religion, whatever might befal them, assured them that within a +month, he should be able to procure their liberty. Davison heard the +letter read, apparently without emotion, but Williams became so +agitated that he let it drop out of his hands, and burst into a flood +of tears. + +From this time, Adams experienced no particular ill treatment, but he +was required to work as usual. About a month more elapsed, when the +man who brought the letter, and who was a servant of the British +consul, disguised as a trader, made known to Adams that he had +succeeded in procuring his release, and the next day they set out +together for Mogadore. + +On quitting Wadinoon, they proceeded in a northerly direction, +travelling on mules at the rate of thirty miles a day, and in fifteen +days arrived at Mogadore. Here Adams remained eight months with Mr. +Dupuis. America and England being then at war, it was found difficult +to procure for Adams a conveyance to his native country; he therefore +obtained a passage on board a vessel bound to Cadiz, where he +remained about fourteen months as servant or groom, in the service of +Mr. Hall, an English merchant there. Peace having been in the mean +time restored, Adams was informed by the American consul, that he had +now an opportunity of returning to his native country with a cartel, +or transport of American seamen, which was on the point of sailing +from Gibraltar. He accordingly proceeded thither, but arrived two +days after the vessel had sailed. Soon afterwards he engaged himself +on board a Welsh brig, lying at Gibraltar, in which he sailed to +Bilboa, whence the brig took a cargo of wool to Bristol, and after +discharging it there, was proceeding in ballast to Liverpool; but +having been driven into Holyhead by contrary winds, Adams there fell +sick, and was put on shore. From this place he begged his way up to +London, where he arrived completely destitute. He had slept two or +three nights in the open streets, when he was accidentally met by a +gentleman, who had seen him in Mr. Hall's service at Cadiz, and was +acquainted with his history, by whom he was directed to the office of +the African Association, through whose means his adventures were made +known to the public. + +Adams may be said to have been the first Christian, who ever reached +the far-famed city of Timbuctoo, and it must be admitted that many +attempts were made to throw a positive degree of discredit upon his +narrative, and to consider it more the work of deep contrivance than +of actual experience. It is certain that many difficulties present +themselves in the narrative of Adams, which cannot be reconciled with +the discoveries subsequently made, but that cannot be argued as a +reason for invalidating the whole of his narrative; especially when +it is so amply and circumstantially confirmed by the inquiries which +were set on foot by Mr. Dupuis, at the instigation of the African +Association, and the result of which was, a complete confirmation of +all the circumstances, which Adams + + + +CHAPTER XIII. + +It is perhaps not the least of the many extraordinary circumstances +attending the city of Timbuctoo, that no two travellers agree in +their account of it; and for this reason it is most difficult to +decide, to whom the greatest credibility should be awarded, or, on +the other hand, whether some of them, who pretend to have resided +within its walls, ever visited it at all. The contradictions of the +respective travellers are in many instances so gross, that it is +scarcely possible to believe that the description, which they are +then giving can apply to one and the same place, and therefore we are +entitled to draw the inference, that some of them are practising on +our credulity, and are making us the dupes of their imagination, +rather than the subjects of their experience. The expectations of +moorish magnificence were raised to a very high pitch, by some of the +inflated accounts of the wealth and splendour of the great city of +central Africa; but these expectations were considerably abated by +the description given of Timbuctoo by Adams and Sidi Hamet, a moorish +merchant, who describes that city in the following terms:-- + +"Timbuctoo is a very large city, five times as great as Swearah +(Suera or Mogadore). It is built in a level plain surrounded on all +sides with hills, except on the south, where the plain continues to +the bank of the same river, which is wide and deep, and runs to the +east. We were obliged to go to it to water our camels, and there we +saw many boats, made of great trees, some with negroes paddling in +them across the river. The city is strongly walled in with stone laid +in clay, like the towns and houses in Suse, only a great deal +thicker." + +The latter account is at total variance with both Adams and Caillie, +who describe Timbuctoo as a city having no walls, nor any thing +resembling fortifications. "The house of the king is very large and +high, like the largest house in Mogadore, but built of the same +materials as the walls. There are a great many more houses in the +city, built of stone, _with shops on one side_, where they sell salt, +the staple article, knives, blue cloth, haicks, and an abundance of +other things, with many gold ornaments. The inhabitants are blacks, +and the chief is a very large, grey-headed, old black man, who is +called shegar, which means sultan or king. The principal part of the +houses are made with large reeds, as thick as a man's arm, which +stand upon their ends, and are covered with small reeds first, and +then with the leaves of the date tree; they are round, and the tops +come to a point, like a heap of stones. Neither the shegar nor his +people are Moslem; but there is a town divided off from the principal +one, in one corner by a strong partition wall, with one gate to it, +which leads from the main town, like the Jews' town or _millah_ in +Mogadore. All the Moors or Arabs, who have liberty to come into +Timbuctoo, are obliged to sleep in that part of it every night, or to +go out of the city entirely. No stranger is allowed to enter that +millah, without leaving his knife with the gate-keeper; but when he +comes out in the morning, it is restored to him. The people who live +in that part are all Moslem. The negroes, bad Arabs, and Moors are +all mixed together, and intermarry, as if they were all of one +colour; they have no property of consequence, except a few asses; +their gate is shut and fastened every night at dark, and very +strongly guarded both by night and by day. The shegar or king is +always guarded by one hundred men on mules, armed with good guns, and +one hundred men on foot, with guns and long knives. He would not go +into the millah, and we saw him only four or five times in the two +moons we staid at Timbuctoo, waiting for the caravan; but it had +perished in the desert, neither did the yearly caravan arrive from +Tunis and Tripoli, for it also had been destroyed." + +"The city of Timbuctoo is very rich, as well as very large; it has +four gates to it; all of them are opened in the day time, but very +strongly guarded and shut at night. The negro women are very fat and +handsome, and wear large round gold rings in their noses, and flat +ones in their ears, and gold chains and amber beads about their +necks, with images and white fish bones, bent round, and the ends +fastened together, hanging down between their breasts; they have +bracelets on their wrists and on their ankles, and go barefooted. I +had bought a small snuff-box, filled with snuff, at Morocco, and +showed it to the women in the principal street of Timbuctoo, which is +very wide. There were a great number about me in a few minutes, and +they insisted on buying my snuff and box; one made me an offer, and +another made me another, until one, who wore richer ornaments than +the rest, told me, in broken Arabic, that she would take off all she +had about her, and give them to me for the box and its contents. I +agreed to accept them, and she pulled off her nose-rings and +ear-rings, all her neck-chains, with their ornaments, and the +bracelets from her wrists and ankles, and gave them to me in exchange +for it. These ornaments would weigh more than a pound, and were made +of solid gold at Timbuctoo. I kept them through the whole of the +journey afterwards, and carried them to my wife, who now wears a part +of them." + +"Timbuctoo carries on a great trade with all the caravans that come +from Morocco, and the shores of the Mediterranean sea. From Algiers, +Tunis, Tripoli, &c. are brought all kinds of cloth, iron, salt, +muskets, powder and lead swords or scimitars, tobacco, opium, spices +and perfumes, amber beads, and other trinkets, with a few more +articles. They carry back, in return, elephants' teeth, gold dust and +wrought gold, gum-senegal, ostrich feathers, very curiously worked +turbans, and slaves; a great many of the latter, and many other +articles of less importance. The slaves are brought in from the +south-west, all strongly ironed, and are sold very cheap, so that a +good stout man may be bought for a haick, which costs in the empire +of Morocco about two dollars." + +"The caravans stop and encamp about two miles from the city, in a +deep valley, and the negroes do not molest them. They bring their +merchandize near the walls of the city, where the inhabitants +purchase all their goods on exchange for the before-mentioned +articles; not more than fifty men from any one caravan being allowed +to enter the city at a time, and they must go out before others are +permitted to enter. This city carries on a great trade with Wassanah, +a city far to the south-east, in all the articles that are brought to +it by caravans, and gets returns in slaves, elephants' teeth, gold, +&c. The principal male inhabitants are clothed with blue cloth +shirts, that reach from their shoulders down to their knees, and are +very wide, and girt about their loins with a red and brown cotton +sash or girdle. They also hang about their bodies, pieces of +different coloured cloth and silk handkerchiefs. The king is dressed +in a white robe of a similar fashion, but covered with white and +yellow gold and silver plates, that glitter in the sun. He has also +many other shining ornaments of shells and stones hanging about him, +he wears a pair of breeches like the Moors and Barbary Jews, and has +a kind of white turban on his head, pointing up, and strung with +different kinds of ornaments. His feet are covered with red morocco +shoes. He has no other weapon about him than a large white staff or +sceptre, with a golden lion on the head of it, which he carries in +his hand. His countenance is mild, and he seems to govern his +subjects more like a father than a king. All but the king go +bareheaded. The poor have only a single piece of blue or other cloth +about them. The inhabitants are very numerous; I think six times as +many as in Swearah, besides Arabs and other Mahommedans in their +millah or separate town, which must contain nearly as many people as +there are altogether in Swearah. [*] The women are clothed in a light +shirt, or under-dress, and over it a green, red or blue covering, +from the bosom to below the knees, the whole of them girt about their +waists with a red girdle. They stain their cheeks and foreheads red +or yellow on some occasions; and the married women wear a kind of +hood on their heads, made of blue cloth or silk, and cotton +handkerchiefs of different kinds and colours, and go barefooted." + +[Footnote: Swearah or Mogadore is stated to contain above 36,000 +souls, that is 30,000 Moors and 6,000 Jews. This calculation would +make Timbuctoo to contain 216,000 inhabitants. A statement which +deserves little credit.] + +"The king and people of Timbuctoo do not fear and worship God like +the Moslem, but like the people of Soudan, they only pray once in +twenty-four hours, when they see the moon, and when she is not seen, +they do not pray at all. They cannot read nor write, but are honest. +They circumcise their children, like the Arabs. They have not any +mosques, but dance every night, as the Moors and Arabs pray." + +"If however European expectation had been raised to an extraordinary +height respecting the size, riches, and importance of Timbuctoo, it +was likely to be still more luxuriantly feasted with the description +of another town of central Africa, in comparison of which Timbuctoo +must appear as a city of a second rate, and which Sidi Hamet +describes as being of the magnitude, that it took him a day to walk +round it." + +"According to the statement of Sidi Hamet, he travelled with about +two hundred Moslem, to a large city called Wassanah, a place he had +never before heard of, nor which is to be found in any of the modern +maps of Africa. For the first six days, they travelled over a plain +within sight of the Joliba, in a direction a little to the south of +east, till they came to a small town called Bimbinah, where the river +turned more to the south-east, by a high mountain to the east. They +now left the river, and pursued a direction more to the southward, +through a hilly and woody country for fifteen days, and then came to +the river again. The route wound with the river for three days in a +south-easterly direction, and then they had to climb over a very high +ridge of mountains, thickly covered with very lofty trees, which took +up six days; from the summit, a large chain of high mountains was +seen to the westward. On descending from this ridge, they came +immediately to the river's bank, where it was very narrow and full of +rocks. For the next twelve days, they kept on in a direction +generally south-east, but winding, with the river almost every day in +sight, and crossed many small streams flowing into it. High mountains +were plainly seen on the western side. They then came to a ferry, and +beyond that travelled for fifteen days more, mostly in sight of the +river, till at length after fifty-seven days travelling, not +reckoning the halts, they reached Wassanah." + +"This city stands near the bank of the Joliba, which runs past it +nearly south, between high mountains on both sides, _and is so wide +that they could hardly distinguish a man on the other side_. The +walls are very large, built of great stones much thicker and stronger +than those of Timbuctoo, with four gates. It took a day to walk +round them. _The city has twice as many inhabitants as Timbuctoo;_ +[*] the principal people are well dressed, but all are negroes and +kafirs. They have boats made of great trees hollowed out, which will +hold from fifteen to twenty negroes, and in these they descend the +river for three moons to the great water, and traffic with pale +people who live in great boats, and have guns as big as their +bodies." This great water is supposed to be the Atlantic, and as the +distance of three moons must not be less than two thousand five +hundred miles, it has been supposed that the Niger must communicate +with the Congo. If so it must be, doubtless, by intermediate rivers; +the whole account, however, is pregnant with suspicion, nor has any +part of it been verified by any subsequent traveller. + +[Footnote: According to Sidi Hamet, Wassanah must contain nearly half +a million of inhabitants. The circumstance also of the Joliba or +Niger being there so bra that a man could scarcely be seen on the +other side, throws great discredit over the whole statement of the +moorish merchant.] + +It is singular, that a great variety of opinion has existed, +respecting the exact state of government to which the city of +Timbuctoo was subject. It is well known, that the vernacular +histories, both traditionary and written, of the wars of the Moorish +empire, agree in stating, that from the middle of the seventeenth +century, Timbuctoo was occupied by the troops of the emperors of +Morocco, in whose name a considerable annual tribute was levied upon +the inhabitants; but that the negroes, in the early part of the last +century, taking advantage of one of those periods of civil dissension +bloodshed, which generally follow the demise of any of the rulers of +Barbary, did at length shake off the yoke of their northern masters, +to which the latter were never afterwards able again to reduce them. +Nevertheless, although the emperors of Morocco might be unable at the +immense distance, which separate them from Soudan, to resume an +authority, which had once escaped I hands, it is reasonable to +suppose that the nearer tribes of Arabs would not neglect the +opportunity thus afforded them, of returning to their old habits of +spoliation, and of exercising their arrogant superiority over their +negro neighbours; and that this frontier state would thus become the +theatre of continual contests, terminating alternately, in the +temporary occupation of Timbuctoo by the Arabs, and in their +re-expulsion by negroes. In order to elucidate the state of things, +which we have here supposed, we need not go further than to the +history of Europe in our own days. How often during the successful +ravages of Buonaparte, that great Arab chieftain of Christendom, +might we not have drawn from the experience of Madrid, or Berlin, or +Vienna, or Moscow, the aptest illustration of these conjectures +respecting Timbuctoo? And an African traveller, if so improbable a +personage may be imagined, who should have visited Europe in these +conjunctures, might very naturally have reported to his countrymen at +home, that Russia, Germany and Spain were but provinces of France, +and that the common sovereign of all these countries resided +sometimes in the Escurial, and sometimes in the Kremlin. + +We have seen this state of things existing in Ludamar, to the west of +Timbuctoo, where a negro population is subjected to the tyranny of +the Arab chieftain Ali, between whom and his southern neighbours of +Bambarra and Kaarta we find a continual struggle of aggression and +self-defence; and the well-known character of the Arabs would lead us +to expect a similar state of things along the whole frontier of the +negro population. In the pauses of such a warfare, we should expect +to find no intermission of the animosity or precautions of the +antagonist parties. The Arab victorious would be ferocious and +intolerant, even beyond his usual violence, and the Koran or the +halter would probably be the alternatives, which he would offer to +his negro guest; whilst the milder nature of the negro would be +content with such measures of precaution and self-defence, as might +appear sufficient to secure him from the return of the enemy, whom he +had expelled, without excluding the peaceful trader; and, under the +re-established power of the latter, we might expect to find at +Timbuctoo precisely the same state of things as Adams describes to +have existed in 1811. + +The reserve, with which we have seen grounds for receiving the +testimony of the natives of Africa, may reasonably accompany us in +our further comparative examination of their accounts and those of +Adams, respecting the population and external appearance of the city +of Timbuctoo. We cannot give such latitude to our credulity as to +confide in the statements of Sidi Hamet; nor do we place much +reliance on the account of Caillie, who was the last European who may +be said to have entered its walls. Notwithstanding, therefore, the +alleged splendour of its court, the polish of its inhabitants, its +civilized institutions, and other symptoms of refinement, which some +modern accounts or speculations, founded on native reports, have +taught us to look for, we are disposed to receive the humbler +descriptions of Adams, as approaching with much greater probability +to the truth. Let us, however, not be understood as rating too highly +the value of a sailor's reports. They must of necessity be defective +in a variety of ways. Many of the subjects upon which Adams was +questioned, were evidently beyond the competency of such an +individual fully to comprehend or satisfactorily to describe; and we +must be content to reserve our final estimates of the morals, +religion, civil polity, and learning, if the term may be allowed us, +of the negroes of Timbuctoo, until we obtain more conclusive +information than could possibly have been derived from so illiterate +a man as Adams. A sufficiency, however, may be gathered from his +story, to prepare us for a disappointment of the extravagant +expectations, which have been indulged respecting this boasted city. + +And here we may remark, that the relative rank of Timbuctoo amongst +the cities of central Africa, and its present importance with +reference to European objects, appear to us to be considerably +overrated. The description of Leo, in the sixteenth century, may +indeed lend a colour to the brilliant anticipations in which some +sanguine minds have indulged on the same subjects in the nineteenth; +but with reference to the commercial pursuits of Europeans, it seems +to have been forgotten, that the very circumstance which has been the +foundation of the importance of Timbuctoo to the traders of Barbary, +and consequently of a great portion of its fame amongst us, its +frontier situation on the verge of the desert, at the extreme +northern limits of the negro population, will of necessity have a +contrary operation now, since a shorter and securer channel for +European enterprise into the central regions of Africa has been +opened by the intrepidity and perseverance of Park, from the +south-western shores of the Atlantic. + +Independently of this consideration, there is great reason to believe +that Timbuctoo has in reality declined of late from the wealth and +consequence which it appears formerly to have enjoyed. The existence +of such a state of things, as we have described, in the preceding +pages, the oppositions of the Moors, the resistance of the negroes, +the frequent change of masters, and the insecurity of property +consequent upon these intestine struggles, would all lead directly +and inevitably to this result. That they have led to it, may be +collected from other sources than Adams. Even Park, to whom so +brilliant a description of the city was given by some of his +informants, was told by others that it was surpassed in opulence and +size by Houssa, Walet, and probably by Jinnie. Several instances also +occur in both his missions, which prove that a considerable trade +from Barbary is carried on direct from the desert to Sego and the +neighbouring countries, without ever touching at Timbuctoo; and this +most powerful of the states of Africa, in the sixteenth century, +according to Leo, is now, in the nineteenth, to all appearance, a +mere tributary dependency of a kingdom, which does not appear to have +been known to Leo even by name. + +Such a decline of the power and commercial importance of Timbuctoo +would naturally be accompanied by a corresponding decay of the city +itself; and we cannot suppose that Adams' description of its external +appearance will be rejected, on account of its improbability, by +those, who recollect that Leo describes the habitations of the +natives, _in his time,_ almost in the very words of the narrative +_now_ [*], and that the flourishing cities of Sego and Sansanding +appear, from Park's account, to be built of mud, precisely in the +same manner as Adams describes the houses of Timbuctoo. + +[Footnote: One of the numerous discordances between the different +translations of Leo, occurs in the passage here alluded to. The +meaning of the Italian version is simply this, that "the dwellings of +the people of Timbuctoo are cabins or huts, constructed with stakes, +covered with chalk or clay, and thatched with straw, _'le cui case +sono capanne fatte di pali coperte di creta co i cortivi di paglia.'_ +But the expression in the Latin translation, which is closely +followed by the old English translator, Pery, implies a state of +previous splendour and decay, 'cojus domus omnes in tuguriola, +stramineis tectis, _sunt mutatæ.'_"] + +But whatever may be the degree of Adams' coincidence with other +authorities, in his descriptions of the population and local +circumstances of Timbuctoo, there is at least one asserted fact in +this part of his narrative, which appears to be exclusively his own; +the existence, we mean, of a considerable navigable river close to +the city. To the truth of which, the credit of Adams is completely +pledged. On many other subjects it is _possible_ that his narrative +might be considerably at variance with the truth, by a mere defect of +memory or observation, and without justifying any imputation on his +veracity, but it is evident that no such latitude can be allowed him +in respect to the La Mar Zarah, which, if not in substance true, must +be knowingly and wilfully false. + +We shall conclude our remarks on Adams' narrative, by noticing only +two important circumstances, respectively propitious and adverse to +the progress of discovery and civilization, which is decidedly +confirmed by the account of Adams, viz. the mild and tractable +natures of the pagan negroes of Soudan, and their friendly deportment +towards strangers, on the one hand; and, on the other, the extended +and baneful range of that original feature of African society +--slavery. + + + +CHAPTER XIV. + +Previously to entering into any further detail of the different +expeditions for exploring the interior of Africa, it may be greatly +conducive to the better understanding of the subsequent narratives, +when treating of the distinct races of people by which the countries +are inhabited, to give a concise statement of the population of that +part of Africa, which is known by the appellation of West Barbary, +and which may be said to be divided into three great classes, +exclusive of the Jews, viz. Berrebbers, Arabs, and Moors. The two +former of these are, in every respect, distinct races of people, and +are each again subdivided into various tribes or communities; the +third are chiefly composed of the other two classes, or of their +descendants, occasionally mixed with the European or negro races. The +indiscriminate use of the names Arab and Moor, in speaking apparently +of the same people, frequently leads the reader into an error as to +the real class to which the individual belongs, and thus the national +character of the two classes becomes unjustly confounded, whilst at +the same time an erroneous opinion is formed of the relative virtues +and vices of the different people, with whom the traveller is brought +into collision. + +In the class of the Berrebbers, we include all those, who appear to +be descendants of the original inhabitants of the country before the +Arabian conquest, and who speak several languages, or dialects of the +same language, totally different from the Arabic. The sub-divisions +of this class are:--1st, the _Errifi,_ who inhabit the extensive +mountainous province of that name on the shores of the Mediterranean; +2nd, _the Berrebbers of the interior,_ who commence on the southern +confines of the Errifi, and extend to the vicinity of Fez and +Mequinez, occupying all the mountains and high lands in the +neighbourhood of those cities; 3rd, _the Berrebbers of middle Atlas;_ +and, 4th, _the Shilluh of Suse and Haha,_ who extend from Mogadore +southward to the extreme boundaries of the dominions of the Cid +Heshem, and from the sea coast to the eastern limits of the mountains +of Asia. + +The Errifi are a strong and athletic race of people, hardy and +enterprising, their features are generally good, and might in many +cases be considered handsome, were it not for the malignant and +ferocious expression, which marks them, in common with the Berrebber +tribes in general, but which is particularly striking in the eye of +an Errifi. They also possess that marked feature of the Berrebber +tribes, a scantiness of beard; many of the race, particularly in the +south, having only a few straggling hairs on the upper lip, and a +small tuft on the chin. They are incessantly bent on robbery and +plundering, in which they employ either open violence or cunning and +treachery, as the occasion requires, and they are restrained by no +checks either of religion, morals, or humanity. However, to impute to +them in particular, as distinct from other inhabitants of Barbary, +the crimes of theft, treachery, and murder, would certainly be doing +them great injustice, but we believe we may truly describe them as +more ferocious and faithless than any other tribe of Berrebbers. + +The Berrebbers of the districts of Fez, Mequinez, and the mountains +of middle Atlas, strongly resemble the Errifi in person, but are said +to be not quite so savage in disposition. They are a warlike people, +extremely tenacious of the independence, which their mountainous +country gives them opportunities of asserting, omit no occasion of +shaking off the control of government, and are frequently engaged in +open hostilities with their neighbours the Arabs, or the emperor's +black troops. They are, as we are informed, the only tribes in +Barbary, who use the bayonet. The districts which they inhabit are +peculiarly interesting and romantic, being a succession of hills and +valleys, well watered and wooded, and producing abundance of grain +and pasturage. + +The Shilluh or Berrebbers of the south of Barbary, differ in several +respects from their brethren in the north. They are rather diminutive +in person, and besides the want of beard already noticed, have in +general an effeminate tone of voice. They are, however, active and +enterprising. They possess rather more of the social qualities than +the other tribes; appear to be susceptible of strong attachments and +friendships, and are given to hospitality. They are remarkable for +their attachment to their petty chieftains; and the engagements and +friendships of the latter are held so sacred, that no instance is on +record of any depredation being committed on travellers furnished +with their protection, which it is usual to purchase with a present, +or on any of the valuable caravans, which are continually passing to +and fro through their territory, between Barbary and Soudan: the +predominant feature of their character is, however, self interest, +and although in their dealings amongst strangers, or in the towns, +they assume a great appearance of fairness or sincerity, yet they are +not scrupulous when they have the power in their own hands, and like +the other Berrebbers, they are occasionally guilty of the most +atrocious acts of treachery and murder, not merely against +Christians, for that is almost a matter of course with all the people +of their nation, but even against Mahommedan travellers, who have the +imprudence to pass through their country, without having previously +secured the protection of one of their chiefs. + +As the Shilluh have been said to be sincere and faithful in their +friendships, so they are on the other hand, perfectly implacable in +their enmities, and insatiable in their revenge. The following +anecdote will exemplify in some degree these traits of their +character. A Shilluh having murdered one of his countrymen in a +quarrel, fled to the Arabs from the vengeance of the relations of his +antagonist, but not thinking himself secure even there, he joined a +party of pilgrims and went to Mecca. From this expiatory journey he +returned at the end of eight or nine years to Barbary, and proceeded +to his native district, he there sought, under the sanctified name of +El Haje, the pilgrim, a title of reverence amongst the Mahommedans, +to effect a reconciliation with the friends of the deceased. They, +however, upon hearing of his return, attempted to seize him, but +owing to the fleetness of his horse, he escaped and fled to Mogadore, +having been severely wounded by a musket ball in his flight. His +pursuers followed him thither, but the governor of Mogadore hearing +the circumstances of the case, strongly interested himself in behalf +of the fugitive, and endeavoured, but in vain, to effect a +reconciliation. The man was imprisoned, and his persecutors then +hastened to Morocco to seek justice of the emperor. That prince, it +is said, endeavoured to save the prisoner; and to add weight to his +recommendation, offered a pecuniary compensation in lieu of the +offender's life, which the parties, although persons of mean +condition, rejected. They returned triumphant to Mogadore, with the +emperor's order for the delivery of the prisoner into their hands; +and having taken him out of prison, they immediately conveyed him +before the walls of the town, where one of the party, loading his +musket before the face of their victim, placed the muzzle to his +breast, and shot him through the body; but as the man did not +immediately fall, he drew his dagger, and, by repeated stabbing, put +an end to his existence. The calm intrepidity with which this +unfortunate Shilluh stood to meet his fate, could not be witnessed +without the highest admiration; and however much we must detest the +blood-thirstiness of his executioners, we must still acknowledge, +that there is something closely allied to nobleness of sentiment in +the inflexible perseverance, with which they pursued the murderer of +their friend to punishment. + +Like the Arabs, the Berrebbers are divided into numerous petty tribes +or clans, each tribe or family distinguishing itself by the name of +its patriarch or founder. The authority of the chiefs is usually +founded upon their descent from some sanctified ancestor; or upon the +peculiar eminence of the individual himself in Mahommedan zeal, or +some other religious qualification. + +With the exception already noticed, that the Berrebbers of the north +are of a more robust and stouter make than the Shilluh, a strong +family-likeness runs through all their tribes. Their customs, +dispositions, and national character, are nearly the same; they are +all equally tenacious of their independence, which their local +positions enable them to assume, and are all animated with the same +inveterate and hereditary hatred against their common enemy, the +Arab. They invariably reside in houses or hovels built of stone and +timber, which are generally situated on some commanding eminence, and +are fortified and loop-holed for self-defence. Their usual mode of +warfare is, to surprise their enemy, rather than overcome him by an +open attack; they are reckoned the best marksmen, and possess the +best fire-arms in Barbary, which render them a very destructive enemy +wherever the country affords shelter and concealment; but although +they are always an over-match for the Arabs, when attacked on their +own rugged territory, they are obliged on the other hand, to +relinquish the plains to the Arab cavalry, against which the +Berrebbers are unable to stand on open ground. + +The Arabs, who now form so considerable a portion of the population +of Barbary, and whose race in the sheriffe line has given emperors to +Morocco ever since the conquest, occupy all the level country of the +empire, and many of the tribes penetrating into the desert, have +extended themselves even to the confines of Soudan. In person, they +are generally tall and robust, with fine features, and intelligent +countenances. Their hair is black and straight, their eyes large, +black and piercing, their noses gently arched; their beards full and +bushy, and they have invariably good teeth. The colour of those who +reside in Barbary, is a deep, but bright brunette, essentially unlike +the sallow tinge of the mulatto. The Arabs of the desert are more or +less swarthy, according to their proximity to the negro states, +until, in some tribes they are found entirely black, but without the +woolly hair, wide nostril, and thick lip, which peculiarly belong to +the African negro. + +The Arabs are universally cultivators of the earth, or breeders of +cattle, depending on agricultural pursuits alone for subsistence. To +use a common proverb of their own, "the earth is the Arab's portion." +They are divided into small tribes or families, each separate tribe +having a particular patriarch or head, by whose name they distinguish +themselves, and each occupying its own separate portion of territory. +They are scarcely ever engaged in external commerce; they dislike the +restraints and despise the security of residence in towns, and dwell +invariably in tents made of a stuff woven from goats' hair and the +fibrous root of the palmeta. In some of the provinces, their +residences form large circular encampments, consisting of from twenty +to a hundred tents, where they are governed by a sheik or magistrate +of their own body. This officer is again subordinate to a bashaw or +governor, appointed by the emperor, who resides in some neighbouring +town. In these encampments there is always a tent set apart for +religious worship, and appropriated to the use of the weary or +benighted traveller, who is supplied with food and refreshment at the +expense of the community. + +The character of the Arab, in a general view, is decidedly more noble +and magnanimous than that of the Berrebber. His vices are of a more +daring, and if the expression may be used, of a more generous cast. +He accomplishes his designs rather by open violence than by +treachery; he has less duplicity and concealment than the Berrebber, +and to the people of his own nation or religion, he is much more +hospitable and benevolent. Beyond this, it is impossible to say any +thing in his favour. But it is in those periods of civil discord, +which have been so frequent in Barbary, that the Arab character +completely develops itself. On these occasions, they will be seen +linked together in small tribes, the firm friends of each other, but +the sworn enemies of all the world besides. While these dreadful +tempests last, the Arabs carry devastation and destruction wherever +they go, sparing neither age nor sex, and even ripping open the dead +bodies of their victims, to discover whether they have not swallowed +their riches for the purpose of concealment. Their barbarity towards +Christians ought not to be tried by the same rules as the rest of +their conduct, for although it has no bounds but those which +self-interest may prescribe, it must almost be considered as a part +of their religion; so deep is the detestation which I they are taught +to feel for "the unclean and idolatrous infidel." A Christian, +therefore, who falls into the hands of the Arabs, has no reason to +expect any mercy. If it be his lot to be possessed by the Arabs of +the desert, his value as a slave will probably save his life, but if +he happens to be wrecked on the coasts of the emperor's dominions, +where Europeans are not allowed to be retained in slavery, his fate +would in most cases be immediate death, before the government could +have time to interfere for his protection. The next great division of +the people of western Barbary, are the inhabitants of the cities and +towns, who may be collectively classed under the general denomination +of MOORS, although this name is only known to them through the +language of Europeans. They depend chiefly on trade and manufactures +for subsistence, and confine their pursuits in general to occupations +in the towns. Occasionally, however, but very rarely, they may be +found to join agricultural operations with the Arabs. + +The Moors may be divided into the four following classes:--1st. The +tribes descended from _Arab_ families. 2nd. Those of _Berrebber_ +descent. 3rd. The _Bukharie._ 4th. The _Andalusie._ + +The _Arab_ families are the brethren of the conquerors of the +country, and they form the largest portion of the population of the +southern towns, especially of those, which border on Arab districts. +The _Berrebber_ families are in like manner more or less numerous in +the towns, according to the proximity of the latter to the Berrebber +districts. + +The _Bukharie,_ or black tribe, are the descendants of the negroes, +brought by the emperor Mulai Ismael, from Soudan. They have been +endowed with gifts of land, and otherwise encouraged by the +subsequent emperors, and the tribe, although inconsiderable in point +of numbers, has been raised to importance in the state, by the +circumstance of its forming the standing army of the emperor, and of +its being employed invariably as the instruments of government. Their +chief residence is in the city of Mequinez, about the emperor's +person. They are also found, but in smaller numbers, in the different +towns of the empire. + +The _Andalusie,_ who form the fourth class of Moors, are the reputed +descendants of the Arab conquerors of Spain, the remnant of whom, on +being expelled from that kingdom, appear to have retained the name of +its nearest province. These people form a large class of the +population of the towns in the north of Barbary, particularly of +Tetuan, Mequinez, Fez, and Rhabatt or Sallee. They are scarcely, if +at all found residing to the south of the river Azamoor, being +confined chiefly to that province of Barbary known by the name of El +Gharb. + +These may be considered the component parts of that mixed population, +which now inhabit the towns of Barbary, and which are known to +Europeans by the name of Moors. In feature and appearance the greater +part of them may be traced to the Arab, or Berrebber tribes, from +which they are respectively derived, for marriages between +individuals of different tribes are generally considered +discreditable. Such, marriages, however, do occasionally take place, +either in consequence of domestic troubles, or irregularity of +conduct in the parties, and they are of course attended with a +corresponding mixture of feature. Intermarriages of the other tribes +with the Bukharie are almost universally reprobated, and are +attributed, when they occur, to interested motives on the part of the +tribe which sanctions them, or to the overbearing influence and power +possessed by the Bukharie. These matches entail on their offspring +the negro feature, and a mulatto-like complexion, but darker. In all +cases of intermarriage between different tribes or classes, the woman +is considered to pass over to the tribe of her husband. + +Besides the Moors, the population of the towns is considerably +increased by the negro slaves, who are in general prolific, and whose +numbers are continually increasing by fresh arrivals from the +countries of Soudan. + +There are but few of the African travellers, who, in their +descriptions of the different characters, which may be said to +constitute the various branches of African society, do not frequently +make mention of a class of men known by the name of Marabouts, who +may be regarded as the diviners or astrologers of the ancients, and +of whose manners and imposition a slight sketch may not be thought in +this place inexpedient nor useless. + +In order to belong to the privileged class of the marabouts, it is +requisite to have only one wife, to drink no wine nor spirits, and to +know how to read the Koran, no matter however ill the task may be +performed. In a country where incontinence and intemperance are so +prevalent, and literature is so entirely unknown, it is not +surprising that these men should easily gain credit with the public, +but this credit is much augmented if the marabout be skilled in such +tricks as are calculated to impose upon the vulgar. The least crafty +amongst them will continue shaking their heads and arms so violently +during several hours, that they frequently fall down in a swoon; +others remain perfectly motionless, in attitudes the most whimsical +and painful, and many of these impostors have the talent of +captivating the confidence and good opinion of the multitude, by +pretending to perform miracles in the public streets. This trade +descends from father to son; and is so lucrative, that the most +fertile parts of the country swarm with these knavish hypocrites. +When they die, the neighbouring tribes erect a sort of mausoleum to +their memory, consisting of a square tower, surmounted by a cupola of +the most fantastical architecture. To these tombs, called likewise +marabouts, the devout repair in crowds, and are accosted by the +deceased through the organs of his surviving representatives, who +dwell within the walls of the tower, and artfully contrive to +increase the holy reputation of their predecessor, as well as their +own profits. The walls of their tombs are covered with votive tablets +and offerings to the deceased, consisting of fire-arms, saddles, +bridles, stirrups and baskets of fruit, which no profane hand is +allowed to touch, because the departed saint may choose to +appropriate the contents to his own use, and by emptying the basket, +acquire fresh claims to the veneration of the credulous. Some of +these jugglers generally accompany the armies, when they take the +field, feeding the commanders with promises of victory, making the +camp the scene of their mummeries and impostures, and dealing in +amulets, containing mystic words, written in characters, which none +but the marabout who disposes of them can decipher. According to the +price of these amulets, they have respectively the power of shielding +the wearer from a poniard, a musket shot and cannon ball, and there +is scarcely a man in the army, who does not wear one or more of them +round his neck, as well as hang them round that of his horse or +camel. Miraculous indeed is said to be the efficacy of their written +characters in cases of sickness, but the presence of the marabout +himself is necessary, in order that the writing may suit the nature +of the disorder. When the disease is dangerous, the writing is +administered internally, for which purpose they scrawl some words in +large characters, with thick streaks of ink round the inside of a +cup, dissolve the ink with broth, and with many devout ceremonies +pour the liquor down the sick man's throat. These impostors have +always free access to the beys and other high dignitaries of the +state; and with regard to the former, in public audiences they never +kiss his hand, but his shoulder, a token of distinction and +confidence granted only to relations and persons of importance. + +In their religion, the Africans labour under the disadvantage of +being left to unassisted reason, and that too very little +enlightened. Man has, perhaps, an instinctive sentiment, that his own +fate and that of the universe are ruled by some supreme and invisible +power, yet he sees this only through the medium of his wishes and +imagination. He seeks for some object of veneration and means of +protection, which may assume an outward and tangible shape. Thus the +African reposes his faith in the doctrine of charms, which presents a +substance stamped with a supernatural character, capable of being +attached to himself individually, and of affording a feeling of +security amid the many evils that environ him. In all the moorish +borders where writing is known, it forms the basis of _Fetisherie,_ +and its productions enclosed in golden or ornamented cases, are hung +round the person as guardian influences. Absurd, however, as are the +observances of the negro, he is a stranger to the bigotry of his +moslem neighbours. He neither persecutes nor brands as impious those +whose religious views differ from his own. There is only one point, +on which his faith assumes a savage character, and displays darker +than inquisitorial horrors. The despot, the object of boundless +homage on earth, seeks to transport all his pomp and the crowd of his +attendants to his place in the future world. His death must be +celebrated by the corresponding sacrifice of a numerous band of +slaves, of wives and of courtiers; their blood must moisten his +grave, and the sword of the rude warrior once drawn, does not readily +stop; a general massacre often takes place, and the capitals of these +barbarian chiefs are seen to stream with blood. + + + +CHAPTER XV. + +It is impossible not to view the unquenchable zeal and intrepidity, +which Park evinced on his first journey, without feeling for the +individual the highest sentiments of admiration and respect. In +addition to those high qualifications, we witnessed an admirable +prudence in his intercourse with the natives, and a temper not to be +ruffled by the most trying provocations; a union of qualities often +thought incompatible, and which in our days we fear we cannot expect +to see again directed to the same pursuits. It may be further stated, +that to our own feelings, scarcely an individual of the age can be +named, who has sunk under circumstances of deeper interest than this +lamented traveller; whether we consider the loss, which geographical +science has suffered in his death, or whether we confine our views to +the blasted hopes of the individual, snatched away from his +hard-earned, but unfinished triumph, and leaving to others that +splendid consummation, which he so ardently sought to achieve. True +it is, that the future discoverer of the termination of the Niger, +must erect the structure of his fame on the wide foundation, with +which his great predecessor had already occupied the ground; but +although the edifice will owe its very existence to the labours of +Park, yet another name than his is now recorded on the finished pile; + +Hos ego--feci, tulit alter honores. + +The African Association, although enthusiastically attached to every +subject connected with the interior of Africa, soon found that, +unless the government would take up the subject as a national affair, +no great hope existed of arriving at the great objects of their +research; it was therefore proposed by Sir Joseph Banks, that a +memorial should be presented to his majesty George III, praying him +to institute those measures, by which the discoveries that Park had +made in the interior of Africa could be prosecuted, and which might +ultimately lead to the solution of those geographical problems, to +which the attention of the scientific men of the country were then +directed. + +In the mean time Mr. Park had married the daughter of a Mr. Anderson, +with whom he had served his apprenticeship as a surgeon, and having +entered with some success in the practice of his profession, in the +town of Peebles, it was supposed, that content with the laurels so +dearly earned, he had renounced a life of peril and adventure. But +none of these ties could detain him, when the invitation was given to +renew and complete his splendid career. The invitation was formally +sent to him by government, in October 1801, to undertake an +expedition on a larger scale, into the interior of Africa. His mind +had been brooding on the subject with enthusiastic ardour. He had +held much intercourse with Mr. Maxwell, a gentleman who had long +commanded a vessel in the African trade, by whom he was persuaded +that the Congo, which since its discovery by the Portuguese, had been +almost lost sight of by the Europeans, would prove to be the channel +by which the Niger, after watering all the regions of interior +Africa, enters the Atlantic. The scientific world were very much +disposed to adopt Park's views on this subject, and accordingly the +whole plan of the expedition was adjusted with an avowed reference to +them. The agitation of the public mind, by the change of ministry, +and the war with France, delayed further proceedings till 1804, when +Mr. Park was desired by Lord Camden, the colonial secretary, to form +his arrangements, with an assurance of being supplied with every +means necessary for their accomplishment. The course which he now +suggested, was, that he should no longer travel as a single and +unprotected wanderer; his experience decided him against such a mode +of proceeding. He proposed to take with him a small party, who being +well armed and disciplined, might face almost any force which the +natives could oppose to them. He determined with this force to +proceed direct to Sego, to build there two boats forty feet long, and +thence to sail downwards to the estuary of the Congo. Instructions +were accordingly sent out to Goree, that he should be furnished +liberally with men, and every thing else of which he might stand in +need. + +Mr. Park sailed from Portsmouth, in the Crescent transport, on the +30th January 1805. About the 9th of March, he arrived at the Cape +Verd Islands, and on the 28th reached Goree. There he provided +himself with an officer and thirty-five soldiers, and with a large +stock of asses from the islands, where the breed of these animals is +excellent, and which appeared well fitted for traversing the rugged +hills of the high country, whence issue the sources of the Senegal +and Niger. He took with him also two sailors and four artificers, who +had been sent from England. A month however elapsed, before all these +measures could be completed, and it was then evident that the rainy +season could not be far distant, a period, in which travelling is +very difficult and trying to European constitutions. It is clear, +therefore, that it would have been prudent to remain at Goree or +Pisania, till that season had passed; but in Mr. Park's enthusiastic +state of mind, it would have been extremely painful to linger so long +on the eve of his grand and favorite undertaking. He hoped, and it +seemed possible, that before the middle of June, when the rains +usually began, he might reach the Niger, which could then be +navigated without any serious toil or exposure. He departed, +therefore, with his little band from Pisania, on the 4th May, and +proceeded through Medina, along the banks of the Gambia. With so +strong a party, he was no longer dependent on the protection of the +petty kings and mansas, but the Africans seeing him so well provided, +thought he had now no claim on their hospitality; on the contrary, +they seized every opportunity to obtain some of the valuable articles +which they saw in his possession. Thefts were practised in the most +audacious manner; the kings drove a hard bargain for presents; at one +place, the women, with immense labour had emptied all the wells, that +they might derive an advantage from selling the water. Submitting +quietly to these little annoyances, Mr. Park proceeded along the +Gambia till he saw it flowing from the south, between the hills of +Foota Jalla and a high mountain called Mueianta. Turning his face +almost due west, he passed the streams of the Ba Lee, the Ba Ting, +and the Ba Woollima, the three principal tributaries of the Senegal. +His change of direction led him through a tract much more pleasing, +than that passed in his dreary return through the Jallonka +wilderness. The villages, built in delightful mountain glens, and +looking from their elevated precipices over a great extent of wooded +plain, appeared romantic beyond any thing he had ever seen. The rocks +near Sullo, assumed every possible diversity of form, towering like +ruined castles, spires and pyramids. One mass of granite so strongly +resembled the remains of a gothic abbey, with its niches: and ruined +staircase, that it required some time to satisfy him of its being +composed wholly of natural stone. The crossing of the river, now +considerably swelled, was attended with many difficulties, and in one +of them Isaaco, the guide, was nearly devoured by a crocodile. + +It was near Satadoo, soon after passing the Faleme, that the party +experienced the first tornado, which marking the commencement of the +rainy season, proved for them the "beginning of sorrows." In these +tornadoes, violent storms of thunder and lightning are followed by +deluges of rain, which cover the ground three feet deep, and have a +peculiarly malignant influence on European constitutions. In three +days twelve men were on the sick-list; the natives, as they saw the +strength of the expedition decline, became more bold and frequent in +their predatory attacks. At Gambia attempts were made to overpower by +main force the whole party, and seize all they possessed; but, by +merely presenting their muskets, the assault was repelled without +bloodshed. At Mania Korro the whole population hung on their rear for +a considerable time, headed by thirty of the king's sons; and some +degree of delicacy was felt as to the mode of dealing with these +august thieves, so long as their proceedings were not quite +intolerable. One of them came up and engaged Mr. Park in +conversation, while another ran off with his fowling-piece, and on +his attempting to pursue him, the first took the opportunity of +seizing his great coat. Orders were now given to fire on all +depredators, royal or plebeian; and after a few shots had been +discharged without producing any fatal effects, the thieves hid +themselves amongst the rocks, and were merely seen peeping through +the crevices. + +The expedition continued to melt away beneath the deadly influence of +an African climate. Everyday added to the list of the sick or dead, +or of those who declared themselves unable to proceed. Near Bangassi, +four men lay down at once. It was even with difficulty that Mr. Park +dragged forward his brother-in-law, Mr. Anderson, while he himself +felt very sick and faint. His spirits were about to sink entirely, +when, coming to an eminence, he obtained a distant view of the +mountains, the southern base of which he knew to be watered by the +Niger. Then indeed he forgot his fever, and thought only of climbing +the blue hills, which delighted his eyes. + +Before he could arrive at that desired point, three weeks elapsed, +during which he experienced the greatest difficulty and suffering. At +length, he reached the summit of the ridge, which divides the Senegal +from the Niger, and coming to the brow of the hill, saw again this +majestic river rolling its immense stream along the plain. His +situation and prospects were, however, gloomy indeed, when compared +with those, with which he had left the banks of the Gambia. Of +thirty-eight men, whom he then had with him, there survived only +seven, all suffering from severe sickness, and some nearly at the +last extremity. Still his mind was full of the most sanguine hopes, +especially when, on the 22nd August, he found himself floating on the +waters of the Niger, and advancing towards the ultimate object of his +ambition. He hired canoes to convey his party to Maraboo, and the +river here, a mile in breadth, was so full and so deep, that its +current carried him easily over the rapids, but with a velocity, +which was even in a certain degree painful. + +At Maraboo, he sent forward Isaaco, the interpreter, to Mansong, with +part of the presents, and to treat with that monarch for protection, +as well as for permission to build a boat. This envoy was absent +several days, during which great anxiety was felt, heightened by +several unfavourable rumours, amongst which was, that the king had +killed the envoy with his own hand, and announced his purpose to do +the same to every white man, who should come within his reach. These +fears were, however, dispelled by the appearance of the royal +singing-man, who brought a message of welcome, with an invitation to +repair to Sego, and deliver in person the remaining presents intended +for the monarch. At Samee, the party met Isaaco, who reported that +there was something very odd in his reception by Mansong. That prince +assured him, in general, that the expedition would be allowed to pass +down the Niger; but whenever the latter came to particulars, and +proposed an interview with Mr. Park, the king began to draw squares +and triangles with his finger on the sand, and in this geometrical +operation his mind seemed wholly absorbed. Isaaco suspected that he +laboured under some superstitious dread of white men, and sought by +these figures to defend himself against their magic influence. It was +finally arranged, that the presents should be delivered, not to +Mansong in person, but to Modibinne, his prime minister, who was to +come to Samee for that purpose. He accordingly appeared, and began by +inquiring, in the king's name, an explanation why Park had come to +Bambarra, with so great a train, from so distant a country, allowing +him a day to prepare his reply. Next morning, the traveller gave an +answer in form, representing his mission as chiefly commercial, and +holding forth the advantages, which Bambarra might reap by receiving +European goods directly from the coast, instead of circuitously, as +now, through Morocco, the desert, Timbuctoo, and Jenne, having a +profit levied on them at every transfer. Modibinne expressed +satisfaction both with the reasons and the presents, and on his +return next day, offered, on the part of Mansong, the option of +building a boat either at Samee, Sego, Sansanding, or Jenne. Park +chose Sansanding, thus enabling the king to avoid an interview with +the Europeans, of which he seemed to entertain so mysterious a dread. + +The voyage down the river was distressing; for although the fatigue +of travelling was avoided, the heat was so intense, that it was +thought sufficient to have roasted a sirloin, and the sick had thus +no chance of recovery. Sansanding was found a prosperous and +flourishing town, with a crowded market well arranged. The principal +articles, which were cloth of Houssa or Jenne, antimony, beads, and +indigo, were each arranged in stalls, shaded by mats from the heat of +the sun. There was a separate market for salt, the main staple of +their trade. The whole presented a scene of commercial order and +activity totally unlooked for in the interior of Africa. + +Mansong had promised to furnish two boats, but they were late in +arriving, and proved very defective. In order to raise money, it was +necessary to sell a considerable quantity of goods; nor was it +without much trouble, that the two skiffs were finally converted into +the schooner Joliba, forty feet long, six broad, and drawing only one +foot of water, being the fittest form for navigating the Niger +downward to the ocean. + +During Mr. Park's stay at Sansanding, he had the misfortune to lose +his brother-in-law, Mr. Anderson, to whom his attachment was so +strong as to make him say, "No event which took place during the +journey ever threw the smallest gloom over my mind, till I laid Mr. +Anderson in the grave. I then felt myself as if left a second time, +lonely and friendless amidst the wilds of Africa." Although the party +were now reduced to five Europeans, one of whom was deranged, and +although the most gloomy anticipations could not fail to arise in the +mind of Mr. Park, his firmness was in no degree shaken. He announced +to Lord Camden his fixed purpose to discover the termination of the +Niger, or to perish in the attempt, adding, "Though all the +Europeans, who are with me should die, and though I were myself half +dead, I would still persevere." To Mrs. Park he announced the same +determination, combined with an undoubting confidence of success, and +the commencement of his voyage down the Niger, through the vast +unknown regions of interior Africa, he called, "turning his face +towards England." + +It was on the 7th November 1805, that Park set sail on his last and +fatal voyage. A long interval elapsed without any tidings, which, +considering the great distance, and the many causes of delay, did not +at first excite alarm amongst his friends. As the following year, +however, passed on, rumours of an unpleasant nature began to prevail. +Alarmed by these, and feeling a deep interest in his fate, Governor +Maxwell, of Sierra Leone, engaged Isaaco, the guide, who had been +sent to the Gambia with despatches from the Niger, to undertake a +fresh journey to inquire after him. At Sansanding he was so far +fortunate as to meet Amadi Fatouma, who had been engaged to succeed +himself as interpreter. From him he received a journal, purporting to +contain the narrative of the voyage down the river, and of its final +issue. The party, it would appear, had purchased three slaves, who, +with the five Europeans and Fatouma, increased their number to nine. +They passed Silla and Jenne in a friendly manner; but at Rakbara +(Kabra) and Timbuctoo, they were attacked by several armed parties, +who were repelled only by a smart and destructive fire. No +particulars are given of any of these important places; nor of Kaffo +Gotoijege and others, which the discoverers are represented as having +afterwards passed. At length they came to the village, more properly +the city of Yaour, where Amadi Fatouma left the party, his services +having been engaged only to that point, He had, however, scarcely +taken his leave, when he was summoned before the king, who bitterly +complained that the white men, though they brought many valuable +commodities with them, had passed without giving him any presents. He +therefore ordered that Fatouma should be thrown into irons, and a +body of troops sent in pursuit of the English. These men reached +Boussa, and took possession of a pass, where rocks, hemming in the +river, allowed only a narrow channel for vessels to descend. When +Park arrived, he found the passage thus obstructed, but attempted +nevertheless to push his way through. The people began to attack him, +throwing lances, pikes, arrows, and stones. He defended himself for a +long time, when two of his slaves at the stern of the canoe were +killed. The crew threw every thing they had into the river, and kept +firing; but being overpowered by numbers and fatigue, unable to keep +up the canoe against the current, and seeing no probability of +escaping, Mr. Park took hold of one of the white men, and jumped into +the water. Martyn did the same, and they were all drowned in the +stream in attempting to escape. The only slave that remained in the +boat, seeing the natives persist in throwing weapons into it without +ceasing, stood up and said to them, "Stop throwing now; you see +nothing in the canoe, and nobody but myself; therefore cease. Take me +and the canoe; but don't kill me." They took possession of both, and +carried them to the king. + +These sad tidings, conveyed in course to England, were not for a long +time received with general belief. The statement, being sifted with +care, was thought to contain inconsistencies, as well as such a +degree of improbability as left some room for hope; but year after +year elapsed, and this hope died away. Denham and Clapperton received +accounts from various quarters, which very nearly coincided with +those of Amadi Fatouma. Clapperton, in his last journey, even saw the +spot where he perished, which, allowing for some exaggeration, did +not ill correspond with the description just given; and further, he +received notice that Park's manuscripts were in the possession of the +king of Yaour, or Youri, who offered to deliver them up, on condition +that the captain would pay him a visit, which he, unfortunately, was +never able to perform. + + + +CHAPTER XVI. + +The fate of Park, notwithstanding the deep regret which it excited in +England and in Europe, presented nothing which could destroy the hope +of future success. The chief cause of failure could be easily traced +to the precipitation into which he had been betrayed by a too ardent +enthusiasm. Nothing had ever been discovered adverse to the +hypothesis that identified the Niger with the Congo, which still +retained a strong hold on the public mind. The views of government +and of the nation on this subject were entirely in unison. It was +therefore determined, that an expedition on a grand scale should be +fitted out, divided into two portions; one to descend the Niger, and +the other to ascend the Congo; which two parties, it was fondly +hoped, would effect a triumphant meeting in the middle of the great +stream that they were sent to explore. The public loudly applauded +this resolution; and never perhaps did an armament, expected to +achieve the most splendid victories, excite deeper interest than +this, which seemed destined to triumph over the darkness that had so +long enveloped the vast interior of Africa. + +The expedition to the Congo was entrusted to Captain Tuckey, an +officer of merit and varied services, who had published several works +connected with geography and navigation. Besides a crew of about +fifty, including marines and mechanics; he was accompanied by Mr. +Smith, an eminent botanist, who likewise possessed some knowledge of +geology; Mr. Cranck, a self-taught, but able zoologist; Mr. Tudor, a +good comparative-anatomist; Mr. Lock-hart, a gardener from Kew; and +Mr. Galwey, an intelligent person, who volunteered to join the party. + +They sailed from Deptford on the 16th February 1816, and reached +Malemba on the 30th June, where they met with a cordial reception +from the mafook, or king's merchant, in the belief that they were +come to make up a cargo of slaves. The chiefs, on being reluctantly +convinced of the contrary, burst into the most furious invectives +against the crowned heads of Europe, particularly the king of +England, whom they denominated the "devil," imputing chiefly to him +the stop put to this odious, but lucrative traffic. A few days +brought the English into the channel of the Congo, which, to their +great surprise, instead of exhibiting the immense size they had been +taught to expect, scarcely appeared a river of the second class. The +stream it is true, was then at the lowest, but the depth being still +more than 150 fathoms, made it impossible to estimate the mass of +water which its channel might convey to the ocean. The banks were +swampy, overgrown with mangrove trees, and the deep silence and +repose of these extensive forests made a solemn impression upon the +mind. + +At Embomma, the emporium of the Congo, much interest was excited by +the discovery, that a negro officiating as cook's mate, was a prince +of the blood. [*] He was welcomed with rapture by his father, and +with a general rejoicing by the whole village. The young savage was +soon arrayed in full African pomp, having on an embroidered coat, +very much tarnished, a silk sash, and a black glazed hat, surmounted +by an enormous feather. Captain Tuckey was introduced to the +_cheeno,_ or hereditary chief, who, with his huge gilt buttons, +stockings of pink sarcenet, red half-boots, and high-crowned +embroidered hat, reminded him of punch in a puppet show. It was vain +attempting to convey to this sage prince, any idea of the objects of +the expedition. The terms which express science, and an enlightened +curiosity, did not excite in his mind a single idea, and he rang +continual changes on the questions:--Are you come to trade? and are +you come to make war? being unable to conjecture any other motive. At +length having received a solemn declaration, that there was no +intention to make war, he sealed peace by the acceptance of a large +present of brandy. + +[Footnote: This is by no means an uncommon case in the ships trading +to Africa, for we were once honoured by an introduction to one of +these princes, who came to England in Capt. Fullerton's ship, in the +humble capacity of a cabin boy. We could not exactly ascertain +whether he considered any part of England, as belonging to the +territory of his father, but he seemed very much disposed to consider +our house as his home, for having once gained a footing in it, it was +a very difficult matter to make him comprehend, when it was high time +for him to take his departure. He once honoured us with a visit at +nine o'clock in the morning, and at eleven at night, he was seated +upon the same chair that he had taken possession of in the morning, +during which time he had consumed ten basins of pea-soup, with a +proportionate quantity of other substantials.] + +After sailing between ridges of high rocky hills, the expedition came +to the Yellala, or great cataract, and here they met with a second +disappointment. Instead of another Niagara, which general report had +led them to expect, they saw only a comparative brook bubbling over +its stony bed. The fall appears to be occasioned merely by masses of +granite, fragments of which have fallen down and blocked up the +stream. Yet this obstruction rendered it quite impossible for the +boats to pass, nor could they be carried across the precipices and +deep ravines, by which the country was intersected. The discoverers +were, therefore, obliged to proceed by land through this difficult +region, which, without a guide on whom they could rely, was attended +with overwhelming toil. Cooloo Inga, and Mavoonda, the principal +villages, were separated by wide intervals, which placed the +travellers under the necessity of often sleeping in the open air. +At length the country improved and became more level; the river +widened, and the obstacles to its navigation gradually disappeared. +But just as the voyage began to assume a prosperous aspect, +indications of its fatal termination began to show themselves. +The health of the party was rapidly giving way under the effects of +fatigue, as well as the malignant influence of a damp and burning +atmosphere. Tudor, Crouch and Galwey, were successively obliged to +return to the ship. Captain Tuckey, after struggling for some time +against the increasing pressure of disease and exhaustion, as well as +the accumulating difficulties of the expedition, saw the necessity of +putting a stop to its further progress. Mr. Smith at first expressed +deep disappointment at this resolution, but soon became so ill that +he could scarcely be conveyed to the vessel. On reaching it, a sad +scene awaited the survivors; Crouch, Tudor and Galwey, were no more; +they had successively sunk under the weight of disease. Mr. Smith +soon shared their fate, and Captain Tuckey himself, on the 4th +October, added one more to the number of deaths, without having +suffered the usual attack of fever. He had been exhausted by constant +depression and mental anxiety. + +From this unfortunate expedition, however, some information was +obtained respecting a part of Africa, not visited for several +centuries. No trace indeed was seen of the great kingdoms, or of the +cities and armies described by the Portuguese missionaries, so that +though the interior may very probably be more populous than the banks +of the river, there must in these pious narratives be much +exaggeration; indeed it is not unworthy of remark, that all the +accounts of the early missionaries, into whatever part of the world +they undertook to intrude themselves, can only be looked upon as a +tissue of falsehood, and hyperbolical misrepresentation. + +The largest towns, or rather villages, did not contain above one +hundred houses, with five hundred or six hundred inhabitants. They +were governed by chenoos, with a power nearly absolute, and having +mafooks under them, who were chiefly employed in the collection of +revenue. The people were merry, idle, good-humoured, hospitable, and +liberal, with rather an innocent and agreeable expression of +countenance. The greatest blemish in their character appeared in the +treatment of the female sex, on whom they devolved all the laborious +duties of life, even more exclusively than is usual among negro +tribes, holding their virtues also in such slender esteem, that the +greatest chiefs unblushingly made it an object of traffic. Upon this +head, however, they have evidently learned much evil from their +intercourse with Europeans. The character of the vegetation, and the +general aspect of nature, are pretty nearly the same on the Congo, as +on the other African rivers. + +Meantime the other part of the expedition, under Major Peddie, whose +destination it was to descend the Niger, arrived at the mouth of the +Senegal. Instead of the beaten track along the banks of that river or +of the Gambia, he preferred the route through the country of the +Foulahs, which, though nearer, was more difficult and less explored. +On the 17th November 1816, he sailed from the Senegal, and on the +14th December, the party, consisting of one hundred men, and two +hundred animals, landed at Kakundy, on the Rio Nunez; but before they +could begin their march, Major Peddie was attacked with fever, and +died. Captain Campbell, on whom the command devolved, proceeded on +the line proposed till he arrived at a small river, called the +Ponietta, on the frontier of the Foulah territory. By this time many +of the beasts of burden had sunk, and great difficulty was found in +obtaining a sufficient supply of provisions. The king of the Foulahs, +on being asked permission to pass through his territory, seemed +alarmed at hearing of so large a body of foreigners about to enter +his country. He contrived, under various pretexts, to detain them on +the frontier four months, during which their stock of food and +clothing gradually diminished, while they were suffering all the +evils that arise from a sickly climate and a scanty supply of +necessaries. At length, their situation became such as to place them +under the absolute necessity of returning. All their animals being +dead, it was necessary to hire the natives to carry their baggage, an +expedient which gave occasion to frequent pillage. They reached +Kakundy with the loss only of Mr. Kum-Doer, the naturalist; but +Captain Campbell, overcome by sickness and exertion, died two days +after, on the 13th of June 1817. The command was then transferred to +Lieutenant Stokoe, a spirited young naval officer, who had joined the +expedition as a volunteer. He had formed a new scheme for proceeding +into the interior; but unhappily he also sunk under the climate and +the fatigues of the, journey. + +A sentence of death seemed pronounced against all, who should attempt +to penetrate the African continent, and yet were still some, daring +spirits, who did not shrink from the undertaking. Captain Gray, of +the Royal African corps, who had accompanied the last-mentioned +expedition, under Major Peddie and Captain Campbell, undertook, in +1818, to perform a journey by Park's old route along the Gambia. He +reached, without any obstacle, Boolibani, the capital of Bondou, +where he remained from the 20th June 1818 to the 22nd May 1819; but, +owing to the jealousy of the monarch, he was not permitted to proceed +any further. With some difficulty he reached Gallam, where he met +Staff-surgeon Dockard, who had gone forward to Sego, to ask +permission to proceed through Bambarra, a request which had also been +evaded. The whole party then returned to Senegal. + +In 1821, Major Laing was sent on a mission from Sierra Leone, through +the Timannee, Kooranko, and Soolima countries, with the view of +forming some commercial arrangements. On this journey he found reason +to believe, that the source of the Niger lay much further to the +south than was supposed by Park. At Falabo he was assured that it +might have been reached in three days, had not the Kissi nation, in +whose territory it was situated, been at war with the Soolimanas, +with whom Major Laing then resided. He was inclined to fix the source +of this great river a very little above the ninth degree of latitude. + + + +CHAPTER XVII. + +The British government was in the mean time indefatigable in their +endeavours to find out the channels for exploring the interior of +Africa. The pashaw of Tripoli, although he had usurped the throne by +violent means, showed a disposition to improve his country, by +admitting the arts and learning of Europe, while the judicious +conduct of Consul Warrington inclined him to cultivate the friendship +of Britain. Through his tributary kingdom of Fezzan, he held close +and constant communication with Bornou, and the other leading states +of central Africa, and he readily undertook to promote the views of +any English expedition in that direction. The usual means were +supplied by the government, and the ordinary inducements held forth +by the association. + +In consequence of these amicable dispositions evinced by the bashaw +of Tripoli towards the British government, it was resolved to appoint +a vice-consul to reside at Mourzouk, the capital of Fezzan; and the +late Mr. Ritchie, then private secretary to Sir Charles Stuart, the +British ambassador at Paris, was selected for the undertaking. He was +joined at Tripoli by Captain G. F. Lyon, who had volunteered his +services as his companion; and to this enterprising and more +fortunate traveller, who has braved alike the rigours of an Arctic +winter, and the scorching heats of central Africa, we are indebted +for the narrative of the expedition. + +On the 25th March 1819, the coffle, (_kafila_, _kefla_,) consisting +of about two hundred men, and the same number of camels, commenced +its march from Tripoli for the interior. They were accompanied by +Mohammed el Mukni, the sultan of Fezzan, from whose protection and +friendship the greatest advantages were anticipated. By the express +advice of the bashaw, the English travellers assumed the moorish +costume, with the character of Moslem. Mr. Ritchie's name was +converted into Yusuf al Ritchie; Captain Lyon called himself Said Ben +Abdallah; and Belford, a ship-wright, who had entered into their +service, took the name of Ali. In the coffle were several parties of +liberated blacks, all joyful at the idea of once more returning to +their native land, though the means of their support were very +slender, and many of them, with their young children, had to walk a +distance of two thousand miles before they could reach their own +country. + +The route lay for the first two days over a sandy irregular desert, +and then entered the mountains of Terkoona, situated to the +south-east of Tripoli, and which seems to be a continuation of the +Gharian or Wahryan range. Several little streams flow from the sides +of the hills, abounding with game, particularly snipes and +partridges. On the sixth day, passing over a stony desert, they +reached Benioleed, an Arab town, with about two thousand inhabitants. +It consists of several straggling mud villages, on the sides of a +fertile ravine, several miles in length, and bounded by rocks of +difficult access. The centre is laid out in gardens, planted with +date and olive trees, and producing also corn, vegetables, and pulse. +The valley is subject to inundation during the winter rains, but in +summer requires to be watered with great labour, by means of wells of +extraordinary depth. It is inhabited by the Orfella tribe, subsisting +chiefly by agriculture, and the rearing of cattle, aided only in a +trifling degree by a manufacture of nitre; they are accounted hardy +and industrious, but at the same time dishonest and cruel. Benioleed +castle stands in latitude 31° 45' 38" N., longitude 14° 12' 10" E. + +The houses are built of rough stones, on each side of the Wady, none +are above eight feet in height, receiving their light only through +the doors, and their appearance is that of a heap of ruins. The wells +are from 100 to 200 feet in depth, the water excellent. During the +rains, the valley frequently became flooded by the torrents, and the +water has been known to rise so nigh as to hide from view the tallest +olive trees in the low grounds. Men and animals are often drowned in +the night, before they have time to escape. The torrents from the +hill-sides rushing down with such impetuosity, that in an hour or +two, the whole country is inundated. + +On leaving Benioleed, it was necessary to take a supply of water for +three days. The country presented an alternation of stony desert, and +plains not incapable of cultivation, but having at this season no +water. On the fifth day (6th April), they crossed Wady Zemzem, which +runs into the Gulf of Syrtis, and passing over a plain strewed in +some parts with cockle-shells, reached the well of Bonjem, which is +the northern boundary of Fezzan. + +On the 7th April, the camels being loaded with four days' water, the +caravan left Bonjem, and proceeded over a barren desert called Klia. +At the end of three hours and a half, they passed a remarkable mound +of limestone and sand, resembling, until a very near approach, a +white turret. It is called by the natives the Bowl of Bazeen, the +latter word signifying an Arab dish, somewhat resembling a hasty +pudding. The halt was made at the end of ten hours, in a sandy +_wady_, called Boo-naja, twenty-two miles south-southeast of Bonjem. + +The next day, the road led through a defile, called Hormut Em-halla +(the pass of the army); then passing a range of table-mountains, +running north-east and south-west, called Elood, it crossed a stony +and very uneven plain, encircled with mountains, to the pass of +Hormut Tazzet. Having cleared the pass, the road opened upon a plain +called El Grazat Arab Hoon, where the caravan encamped, after a march +of twelve hours and a half. Here one of the camels died; three others +were unable to come up, and all of the camels in the coffle were much +distressed, not having for several days tasted any kind of food. Two +hours and a half further, they came to a solitary tree, which is +reckoned a day's journey from water. Slaves, in coming from the +water, are not allowed to drink until they reach the tree, which is +one of the longest stages from Fezzan. At the end of nearly eleven +hours, the route led through a pass called Hormut Taad Abar, and +after wading through a _wady_, closely hemmed in by mountains, opened +into a small circular plain, in which was found a well of brackish, +stinking water. In hot seasons, the well is dry, and even at this +time it was very low; but the horses sucked up with avidity the mud +that was thrown out of it. Still there was not any fodder for the +camels, till, about the middle of the next day's march, they reached +a small wady, in which there were some low bushes. A strong sand-wind +from the southward now rendered the march extremely harassing. The +sand flew about in such quantities, that the travellers were unable +to prepare any food, and they could not even see thirty yards before +them. In the evening they encamped amid a plantation of palms, near +two wells of tolerably fresh water, at a short distance from Sockna. +Of this town, which is about half-way between Tripoli and Mourzouk, +Captain Lyon gives the following description:-- + +Sockna stands on an immense plain of gravel, bounded to the south by +the Soudah mountains, at about fifteen miles; by the mountains of +Wadam, about thirty miles to the eastward; a distant range to the +west, and those already mentioned on the north. The town is walled, +and may contain two thousand persons. There are small projections +from the walls, having loop-holes for musketry. It has seven gates, +only one of which will admit a loaded camel. The streets are very +narrow, and the houses are built of mud and small stones mixed, many +of them having a story above the ground-floor. A small court is open +in the centre, and the doors, which open from this area, give the +only light which the rooms receive. The water of Sockna is almost all +brackish or bitter. There are 200,000 date trees in the immediate +neighbourhood of the town, which pay duty; also an equal number, not +yet come into bearing, which are exempt. These dates grow in a belt +of sand, at about two or three miles distant from the town, and are +of a quality far superior to any produced in the north of Africa. +Owing to their excellence, they are sold at a very high price at +Tripoli. The adjoining country is entirely destitute of shrubs, or +any kind of food for camels, which are therefore sent to graze about +five miles off; while in the town, all animals are fed on dates. +Sheep are brought here from Benioleed, and are, in consequence of +coming from such a distance, very dear. In the gardens about three +miles from the town, barley, maize, and _gussob ohourra_ are +cultivated, as well as a few onions, turnips, and peppers. The number +of flies here are immense, and all the people carry little flappers, +made of bunches of wild bulls' hair tied to a short stick, in order +to keep those pests at a distance. The dates all being deposited in +store-houses in the town, may account in some degree for the +multitude of these insects, which in a few minutes fill every dish or +bowl containing any liquid. + +The costume is here the same as that of the Bedouins, consisting +generally of a shirt and barracan, a red cap, and sandals. A few, +whose circumstances allow of it, dress in the costume of Tripoli. The +neat appearance of the men in general is very striking, compared with +that of the Arabs about the coast. The women are considered +exceedingly handsome, indeed one or two were really so, and as fair +as Europeans, but they are noted for their profligacy and love of +intrigue. + +The first day of spring is at Sockna a day of general rejoicing. It +is then the custom, to dress out little tents or bowers on the tops +of the houses, decorating them with carpets, _jereeds_, shawls, and +sashes. A gaudy handkerchief on a pole, as a standard, completes the +work, which is loudly cheered by the little children, who eat, drink, +and play during the day in these covered places, welcoming the +spring by songs, and crying continually, "O welcome spring, with +pleasure bring us plenty." The women give entertainment in their +houses, and the day is quite a holiday. From the top of the houses in +which Captain Lyon lodged, these little bowers had a very pretty +effect, every roof in the town being ornamented with one. Four ears +of corn were this day seen perfectly ripe, which was very early for +the season. The gardens here are excellent, compared with the others +in Fezzan. + +Ten miles east by south from Sockna is the town of Hoon. It is +smaller than Sockna, but is built and walled in the same manner. It +has three gates, three mosques, and a large building, which is +dignified with the name of a castle, but it does not appear to have +even a loop-hole for musketry. The palm groves and gardens come up +close to the walls of the town, and completely conceal it. The soil +is sand, but is fertilized by being constantly refreshed by little +channels, from wells of brackish water. The inhabitants, who are of +the tribe Fateima, bear a good character. + +The town of Wadan is between twelve and thirteen miles east by north +of Hoon. It appeared much inferior to either of the other two in +point of neatness, comfort, and convenience; although its aspect is +much more pleasing; it is built on a conical hill, on the top of +which are some enclosed houses, called the castle. Here is a well of +great depth, cut through the solid rock, evidently not the work of +the Arabs. The tombs and mosques, both here and at Hoon, were +ornamented with numbers of ostrich eggs. The inhabitants of Wadan are +sheerefs, who are the pretended descendants of the prophet, and form +the bulk of the resident population, and Arabs of the tribe _Moajer_, +who spend the greater part of the year with their flocks in the +Syrtis. A few miles eastward of the town, there is a chain of +mountains, which, as well as the town itself, derives its name from a +species of buffalo called _wadan_, immense herds of which are found +there. The wadan is of the size of an ass, having a very large head +and horns, a short reddish hide, and large bunches of hair hanging +from each shoulder, to the length of eighteen inches or two feet; +they are very fierce. There are two other specimens found here, the +_bogra el weish_, evidently the _bekker el wash_ of Shaw, a red +buffalo, slow in its motions, having large horns, and of the size of +a cow; and the white buffalo, of a lighter and more active make, very +shy and swift, and not easily procured. The wadan seems best to +answer to the oryx. + +There are great numbers of ostriches in these mountains, by hunting +of which, many of the natives subsist. At all the three towns, +Sockna, Hoon, and Wadan, it is the practice to keep tame ostriches in +a stable, and in two years to take three cullings of the feathers. + +Captain Lyon supposes that all the fine _white_ ostrich feathers sent +to Europe are from tame birds, the wild ones being in general so +ragged and torn, that not above half a dozen perfect ones can be +found. The black, being shorter and more flexible, are generally +good. All the Arabs agree in stating, that the ostrich does not leave +its eggs to be hatched by the heat of the sun. The parent bird forms +a rough nest, in which she covers from fourteen to eighteen eggs, and +regularly sits on them, in the same manner as the common fowl does on +her chickens, the male occasionally relieving the female.[Footnote] +It is during the breeding season that the greatest numbers are +procured, the Arabs shooting the old ones on their nests. + +[Footnote: There is one peculiarity attending the ostrich, which is, +that although the female lays from about twenty-five to thirty eggs, +yet she only sits upon about fifteen, throwing the remainder outside +the nest, where they remain until the young ones are hatched, and +these eggs form the first food of the young birds.--EDITOR.] + +On the 22d April, Captain Lyon and his companions left Sockna, in +company with Sultan Mukni, for Mourzouk, which they entered upon the +4th May. The whole way is an almost uninterrupted succession of stony +plains and gloomy wadys, with no water but that of wells, generally +muddy, brackish, or bitter, and at fearful intervals. On the first +evening, the place of encampment was a small plain, with no other +vegetation than a few prickly _talk_ bushes, encircled by high +mountains of basalt, which gave it the appearance of a volcanic +crater. Here, at a well of tolerably good water, called Gatfa, the +camels were loaded with water for five days. The next day, the horse +and foot men passed over a very steep mountain called Nufdai, by a +most difficult path of large irregular masses of basalt; the camels +were four hours in winding round the foot of this mountain, which was +crossed in one hour. From the wady at its foot, called Zgar, the +route ascended to a flat covered with broken basalt, called Dahr +t'Moumen (the believer's back): it then led through several gloomy +wadys, till, having cleared the mountainous part of the Soudah (Jebel +Assoud), it issued in the plain called El Maitba Soudah, from its +being covered in like manner with small pieces of basalt. Three +quarters of an hour further, they reached El Maitba Barda, a plain +covered with a very small white gravel, without the slightest trace +of basalt. + +"We did not see any where," says Captain Lyon, "the least appearance +of vegetation, but we observed many skeletons of animals, which had +died of fatigue in the desert, and occasionally the grave of some +human being. All their bodies were so dried by the extreme heat of +the sun, that putrifaction did not appear to have taken place after +death. In recently dead animals, I could not perceive the slightest +offensive smell; and in those long dead, the skin, with the hair on +it, remained unbroken and perfect, although so brittle as to break +with a slight blow. The sand-winds never cause these carcases to +change their places, as in a short time, a slight mound is formed +round them, and they become stationary." + +Afterwards, passing between low, table-topped hills, called El Gaaf, +the coffle encamped on the third evening in a desert, called Sbir ben +Afeen, where the plain presented on all sides so perfect a horizon, +that an astronomical observation might have been taken as well as at +sea. From the excessive dryness of the air, the blankets and +barracans emitted electric sparks, and distinctly crackled on being +rubbed. The horses' tails, also, in beating off the flies, had the +same effect. + +The fourth day, the route passed over sand lulls to a sandy irregular +plain, very difficult and dangerous. Here the wind, being southerly, +brought with it such smothering showers of burning sand, that they +frequently lost the track, being unable to distinguish objects at the +distance of only a few yards. + +The next day's march, the fifth from Sockna, over a rocky country, +led to the walled village of Zeighan, or Zeghren, situated in the +midst of a large forest of palms, in latitude 27° 26' N. Eight miles +further, on basaltic hillocks, is another village, somewhat larger, +and more neatly walled, called Samnoo. The houses are very neatly +built, and the rooms are washed with a yellow mud, which has a pretty +effect. Three tolerably built white-washed minarets, the first that +had been seen since leaving Tripoli, rose to some height above the +houses, and have a pleasing appearance. Palm trees encircle the town, +and the gardens are considered good. This town, as well as Zeighan, +is famed for the number and sanctity of its marabouts. A stage of +twenty miles, over a barren plain of gravel, leads to another, but +inconsiderable town, called Timen-hint. On the next day but one, they +reached Sebha, a mud-walled town, picturesquely situated on rising +ground, surrounded with its palm groves, in the midst of a dreary, +desert plain; it has a high, square, white-washed minaret to its +principal mosque. At this place, Captain Lyon remarked a change of +colour in the population, the people being mulattoes. Two marches +more led to Ghroodwa, a miserable collection of mud huts, containing +about fifty people, who appeared a ragged drunken set, as the immense +number of tapped palms testified. From the ruins of some large mud +edifices, this place seems once to have been of more importance. The +palms, which extend for ten or fifteen miles, east and west, are the +property of the sultan, and appeared in worse condition than any they +had seen. On leaving this place, the route again entered on a barren, +stony plain, and in five hours and a half passed a small wady, called +Wad el Nimmel (the valley of ants), from the number of ants, of a +beautiful pink colour, that are found there. A few scattered palms, +and some ill-built ruined huts occurring at intervals, and betokening +the greatest wretchedness, alone relieved the dreariness of the +remainder of the journey. + + + +CHAPTER XVIII. + +The entry into Mourzouk, the capital of Sultan Mukni, was attended +with the usual ceremonial. On drawing near to the palm groves and +gardens, which encompass the city, a large body of horse and foot was +seen approaching with silken flags. When the horsemen had advanced +within five hundred yards of the party, they set off at full speed, +and, on coming up, threw themselves from their horses, and ran to +kiss the sultan's hand. On drawing nearer to the town, the cavalcade +was met by the dancers, drummers, and pipers. Two men, bearing fans +of ostrich feathers, stationed themselves on each side of the sultan, +beating off the flies. Thus preceded by the led horses and silken +flags, they made their entry, the horsemen continuing to skirmish +till they reached the gate. The soldiers then raced up every broad +street, shouting and firing, whilst the women uttered their shrill +cry, and on passing a large open space, a salute was fired from two +six-pounders. The scene was altogether highly interesting. + +Mourzouk is a walled town, containing about 2,500 inhabitants, who +are blacks, and who do not, like the Arabs, change their residence. +The walls are of mud, having round buttresses, with loopholes for +musketry, rudely built, but sufficiently strong to guard against +attack; they are about fifteen feet in height, and at the bottom +eight feet in thickness, tapering, as all the walls in this country +do, towards the top. The town has seven gates, four of which are +built up, in order to prevent the people escaping when they are +required to pay their duties. A man is appointed by the sultan to +attend each of these gates, day and night, lest any slaves or +merchandise should be smuggled into the town. The people, in building +the walls and houses, fabricate a good substitute for stones, which +are not to be found in those parts, by forming clay into balls, which +they dry in the sun, and use with mud as mortar; the walls are thus +made very strong, and as rain is unknown, durable also. The houses, +with very few exceptions, are of one story, and those of the poorer +sort, receive all their light from the doors. They are so low as to +require stooping nearly double to enter them; but the large houses +have a capacious outer door, which is sufficiently well contrived, +considering the bad quality of the wood, that composes them. Thick +palm planks, of four or five inches in breadth, for the size and +manner of cutting a tree will not afford more, have a square hole +punched through them at the top and bottom, by which they are firmly +wedged together with thick palm sticks; wet thongs of camels' hide +are then tied tightly over them, which, on drying, draw the planks +more strongly and securely together. There are not any hinges to the +doors, but they turn on a pivot, formed on the last plank near the +wall, which is always the largest on that account. The locks and keys +are very large and heavy, and of curious construction. The houses are +generally built in little narrow streets, but there are many open +places, entirely void of buildings, and covered with sand, on which +the camels of the traders rest. Many palms grow in the town, and some +houses have small square enclosures, in which are cultivated a few +red peppers and onions. The street of entrance is a broad space, of +at least a hundred yards, leading to the wall that surrounds the +castle, and is extremely pretty. Here the horsemen have full scope to +display their abilities, when they skirmish before the sultan. The +castle itself is an immense mud building, rising to the height of +eighty or ninety feet, with little battlements on the walls, and at a +distance really looks warlike. Like all the other buildings, it has +no pretensions to regularity. The lower walls are fifty or sixty feet +in thickness, the upper taper off to about four or five feet. In +consequence of the immense mass of wall, the apartments are very +small, and few in number. The rooms occupied by the sultan are of the +best quality, that is to say, comparatively, for the walls are +tolerably smooth and white-washed, and have ornamental daubs of red +paint in blotches, by way of effect. His couch is spread on the +ground, and his visitors squat down on the sandy floor, at a +respectful distance. Captain Lyon and his party were always honoured +by having a corner of the carpet offered to them. The best and most +airy part of the castle is occupied by the women, who have small +rooms round a large court, in which they take exercise, grind corn, +cook, and perform other domestic offices. The number of great ladies, +called _kibere,_ seldom exceed six. This dignified title is generally +given to the mothers of the sultan's children, or to those, who +having been once great favorites, are appointed governesses to the +rest; there are, altogether about fifty women, all black and very +comely, and from what stolen glances we could obtain, they appeared +extremely well dressed. They are guarded by five eunuchs, who keep up +their authority by occasionally beating them. + +The sultan has three sons and two daughters, who live with him in +this cage, the doors of which are locked at night, and the keys +brought to him, so that he remains free from any fear of attack. The +castle is entered by a long winding passage in the wall, quite dark +and very steep. At the door is a large shed, looking on a square +place capable of containing three or four hundred men, closely +huddled together. Under this shed is a great chair of state, once +finely gilt and ornamented, with a patchwork quilt thrown over it, +and behind it are the remains of two large looking-glasses. In this +chair the sultan receives homage every Friday, before he ascends the +castle, after returning from the mosque. This place is the Mejlees, +and was the scene of all the cruelties practised by Mukni, when he +first took possession of the country. + +The habitation in which Captain Lyon and his party were lodged, was a +very good one, and as all the houses are built upon nearly the same +plan, the following description will give an idea of all the rest. A +large door, sufficiently high to admit a camel, opened into a broad +passage or _skeefa,_ on one side of which was a tolerable stable for +five horses, and close to it, a small room for the slaves, whose duty +it might be to attend the house. A door opposite to that of the +stable opened into the _kowdi,_ a large square room, the roof of +which at the height of eighteen feet, was supported by four palm +trees as pillars. In the centre of the roof was a large open space, +about twelve feet by nine, from this, the house and rooms receive +light, not to mention dust and excessive heat in the afternoon. At +the end of the room facing the door, a large seat of mud was raised +about eighteen inches high, and twelve feet in length. Heaps of this +description, though higher, are found at the doors of most houses, +and are covered with loungers in the cool of the morning and evening. +The large room was fifty feet by thirty-nine. From the sides, doors +opened into smaller ones, which might be used as sleeping or store +rooms, but were generally preferred for their coolness. Their only +light was received from the door. Ascending a few steps, there was a +kind of gallery over the side rooms, and in it were two small +apartments, but so very hot as to be almost useless. From the large +room was a passage leading to a yard, having also small houses +attached to it in the same manner, and a well of comparatively good +water. The floors were of sand, and the walls of mud roughly +plastered, and showing every where the marks of the only trowel used +in the country--the fingers of the right hand. There are no windows +to any of the houses, but some rooms have a small hole in the +ceiling, or high up the wall. + +Near the house was the principal mosque, to which the sultan and the +Christian party went every Friday, as a matter of course, and every +other day they found it necessary to appear there once or twice. It +is a low building, having a shed projecting over the door, which, +being raised on a platform, is entered by a few steps. A small +turret, intended to be square and perpendicular, is erected for the +Mouadden to call to prayers. One of the great lounges is on the seat +in front of the mosque, and every morning and evening they are full +of idle people, who converse on the state of the markets, and on +their own private affairs, or in a fearful whisper canvass the +sultan's conduct. + +In Mourzouk there are sixteen mosques, which are covered in, but some +of them are very small. Each has an imaum, but the kadi is their +head, of which dignity he seems not a little proud. This man had +never, been beyond the boundaries of Fezzan, and could form no idea +of any thing superior to mud houses and palms; he always fancied the +Europeans to be great romancers, when they told him of their country, +and described it as being in the midst of the sea. + +They had many opportunities of observing the fighi and their scholars +sitting on the sand. The children are taught their letters by having +them written on a flat board, of a hard wood, brought from Bornou and +Soudan, and repeating them after their master. When quite perfect in +their alphabet, they are allowed to trace over the letters already +made, they then learn to copy sentences, and to write small words +dictated to them. The master often repeats verses from the Koran, in +a loud voice, which the boys learn by saying them after him, and when +they begin to read a little, he sings aloud, and all the scholars +follow him from their books, as fast as they can. Practice at length +renders them perfect, and in three or four years their education is +considered complete. Thus it is, that many who can read the Koran +with great rapidity, cannot peruse a line of any other book. +Arithmetic is wholly put of the question. On breaking up for the day, +the master and all the scholars recite a prayer. The school-hours are +by no means regular, being only when the fighi has nothing else to +do. Morning early, or late in the evening, are the general times for +study. The punishments are beating with a stick on the hands or feet +and whipping, which is not unfrequently practised. Their pens are +reeds--their rubber sand. While learning their tasks, and perhaps +each boy has a different one, they all read aloud, so that the +harmony of even a dozen boys may be easily imagined. + +In the time of the native sultans, it was the custom, on a fixed day, +annually, for the boys who had completed their education, to assemble +on horseback, in as fine clothes as their friends could procure for +them, on the sands to the westward of the town. On an eminence stood +the fighi, bearing in his hand a little flag rolled on a staff; the +boys were stationed at some distance, and on his unfurling the flag +and planting it in the ground, all started at full speed. He who +first arrived and seized it, was presented by the sultan with a fine +suit of clothes, and some money, and rode through the town at the +head of the others. These races ceased with the arrival of Mukni, and +parents now complain that their sons have no inducement to study. + +All the houses are infested with multitudes of small ants, which +destroyed all the animals which the party had preserved, and even +penetrated into their boxes. Their bite was very painful, and they +were fond of coming into the blankets. One singularity is worthy of +remark in Fezzan, which is, that fleas are unknown there, and those +of the inhabitants, who have not been on the sea-coast, cannot +imagine what they are like. Bugs are very numerous, and it is +extraordinary that they are called by the same name as with us. There +is a species of them which is found in the sands, where the coffles +are in the habit of stopping; they bite very sharply, and fix in +numbers round the coronet of a horse; the animals thus tormented, +often become so outrageous as to break their tethers. + +There are several pools of stagnant salt water in the town, which it +is conceived in a great measure promote the advance of the summer +fever and agues. The burying places are outside the walls, and are of +considerable extent. In lieu of stones, small mud embankments are +formed round the graves, which are ornamented with shreds of cloth +tied to small sticks, with broken pots, and sometimes ostrich eggs. +One of the burying places is for slaves, who are laid very little +below the surface, and in some places the sand has been so carried +away by the wind, as to expose their skeletons to view. Owing to the +want of wood, no coffins are used. The bodies are merely wrapped in a +mat, or linen cloth, and covered with palm branches, over which the +earth is thrown. When the branches decay, the earth falls in, and the +graves are easily known by being concave, instead of convex. The +place where the former sultans were buried, is a plain near the town; +their graves are only distinguished from those of other people, by +having a larger proportion of broken pots scattered about them. It is +a custom for the relations of the deceased to visit, and occasionally +to recite a prayer over the grave, or to repeat a verse of the Koran. +Children never pass within sight of the tombs of their parents, +without stopping to pay this grateful tribute of respect to their +memory. Animals are never buried, but thrown on mounds outside the +walls, and there left. The excessive heat soon dries up all their +moisture, and prevents their becoming offensive; the hair remains on +them, so that they appear like preserved skins. + +The men of Mourzouk of the better sort, dress nearly like the people +of Tripoli. The lower orders wear a large shirt of white or blue +cotton, with long loose sleeves, trousers of the same, and sandals of +camel's hide. The shirts being long, many wear no other covering. +When leaving their houses, and walking to the market or gardens, a +_jereed_ or _aba_ is thrown round them, and a red cap, or a neatly +quilted cotton white one, completes the dress. On Fridays, they +perhaps add a turban, and appear in yellow slippers. In the gardens, +men and women wear large broad-brimmed straw hats, to defend their +eyes from the sun, and sandals made from the leaves and fibres of the +palm trees. Very young children go entirely naked, those who are +older have a shirt, many are quite bare-headed, and in that state +exposed all day to the sun and flies. The men have but little beard, +which they keep closely clipped. The dress of the women here, differs +materially from that of the moorish females, and their appearance and +smell are far from agreeable. They plait their hair in thick bobbins, +which hang over their foreheads, nearly as low down as the eye-brows, +and are there joined at the bottom, as far round to each side as the +temples. The hair is so profusely covered with oil, that it drops +down over the face and clothes. This is dried up, by sprinkling it +with plenty of a preparation made of a plant resembling wild +lavender, cloves, and one or two more species pounded into powder, +and called atria; it forms a brown dirty-looking paste, and combined +with perspiration and the flying sand, becomes in a few days far from +savoury. The back hair is less disgusting, as it is plaited into a +long tress on each side, and is brought to hang over the shoulders; +from these tresses, ornaments of silver or of coral are suspended. +Black wool is frequently worked in with their black locks, to make +them appear longer. In the centre of the forehead, an ornament of +coral or beads is placed, hanging down to the depth of an inch or +two. A woollen handkerchief is fastened on the back of the head; it +falls over behind, and is tied by a leathern strap under the chin. +Each ear is perforated for as many rings as the woman possesses, some +wearing even six on one side. The largest, which is about five inches +in diameter, hanging lowest, supported by a string from the head. +Round the neck, a tight flat collar of beads, arranged in fancy +patterns, is worn with coral necklaces, and sometimes a broad gold +plate immediately in front. A large blue shirt is generally worn, the +collar and breast ornamented with needle-work. The women also wear +white shirts, and striped silk ones called shami, which are brought +from Egypt; a jereed and red slippers complete their dress. They +generally have their wrappers of a darker colour than those of the +men. Some of the better class of women wear trousers, not fuller in +the leg than those worn in Europe; they are very prettily embroidered +with silk at the bottom of the leg, and form a handsome contrast to +the black skin of the wearer. Cornelians or agates, roughly shaped in +the form of hearts, are much worn as necklaces, and they have a +variety of rings for the thumbs and fingers. A band of silk cord +hanging round the body from one shoulder, is generally filled with +pendent leather or cloth bags, containing charms. Round the wrists +and above the elbows, armlets of silver, gold, glass, horn or ivory +are worn, according to the ability of the wearer to purchase them, +and on the ankles they have silver, brass, copper or iron shackles. +A pair of silver ones were seen, which weighed one hundred and +twenty-eight ounces, but these ponderous ornaments produce a callous +lump on the leg, and entirely deform the ankle. The poorest people +have only the jereed and sandals. Both men and women have a singular +custom of stuffing their nostrils with a twisted leaf of onions or +clover, which has a very disgusting appearance. The men, not using +oil, are much cleaner than the women, but the whole race of them, +high and low, apparently clean, are otherwise stocked with vermin, +and they make no secret of it. The sultan has been frequently +observed, when detecting an interloper, to moisten his thumb to +prevent its escape, and then demolish it with great composure and +dignity. Some of the neighbours, whom Captain Lyon visited, while +reposing on their carpets, would send for a slave to hunt for these +tormentors on their shirts, and it is a great recommendation to a +female slave on sale to say that she is well skilled in this art, and +in that of shampooing. + +The natives have a variety of dances, of which two or three are +peculiar to the country. The parties assemble on the sands in the +dusk of the evening, when a number of young men and women range +themselves side by side, and dance to the sound of drums, to which +they keep good time. The men have a rude kind of iron cymbal in each +hand, which opens and shuts; this they beat in the manner of +castanets, both sexes singing at the same time in chorus. The +movements consist in stepping forward, the whole line at once, at a +particular turn of the tune, as if to catch something with their two +hands, which they hold out; they balance themselves a short time on +the advanced foot, and then step back, turning half round, first to +one side and then to the other, the whole line then moves slowly in a +circle round the musicians, who form the centre, and who all join in +the dance. There is nothing improper nor immodest in this exhibition, +but on the contrary, from its slowness and the regularity of its +movements, it is extremely pleasing and elegant. Another dance is +performed by women only, who form a circle round the drummers, and +occasionally sing a lively chorus; one advances, and with her arms +extended, foots it to and from the drummers, two or three times, +until a change of tune, when she runs quickly backwards and falls +flat down, the women behind are ready to receive her, and by a jerk +of their arms throw her again upright, on which she once more turns +round and resumes her place, leaving the one next in succession to +her, to go through the same movements, all of which are performed in +the most just time; the whole party occasionally enlivening the +music, by their skill and extraordinary shout of joy. The dancing in +the houses is not so pleasing as that in public, and as for decency, +it is quite out of the question. The male slaves have many dances, in +which great activity and exertion are requisite. One consists in +dancing in a circle, each man armed with a stick, they all move, +first half and then quite round, striking as they turn, the sticks of +those on each side of them, and then jumping off the ground as high +as they can. Another is performed by boys, and they have no drum, but +keep chorus by singing in a particular manner, _la ilia il alia,_ +(there is no God, but God.) + +The sultan had frequently requested Mr. Ritchie to visit his +children, and some of his negresses when they were indisposed, and he +had in consequence frequently attended them, but being himself +confined by illness, Captain Lyon was allowed to prescribe for them, +and had therefore frequent opportunities of observing the interior of +his family, which would not otherwise have been afforded him. He was +much struck with the appearance of his daughters, one of three, the +other of one year and a half old, who were dressed in the highest +style of barbarian magnificence, and were absolutely laden with gold. +From their necks were suspended large ornaments of the manufacture of +Timbuctoo; and they had massive gold armlets and anklets of two +inches in breadth, and half an inch in thickness, which, from their +immense weight had produced callous rings round the legs and arms of +the poor infants. They wore silk shirts composed of ribbons sewed +together, in stripes of various colours, which hung down over silk +trousers. An embroidered waistcoat and cap completed this +overwhelming costume. Their nails, the tips of their fingers, the +palms of their hands and soles of their feet were dyed dark-brown +with henna. Captain Lyon viewed with amazement and pity the dress of +these poor little girls, borne down as they were with finery; but +that of the youngest boy, a stupid looking child of four years old, +was even more preposterous than that of his sisters. In addition to +the ornaments worn by them, he was loaded with a number of charms, +enclosed in gold cases, slung round his body, while in his cap were +numerous jewels, heavily set in gold, in the form of open hands, to +keep off _the evil eye._ These talismans were sewn on the front of +his cap, which they entirely covered. His clothes were highly +embroidered, and consisted of three waistcoats, a shirt of white +silk, the women only wearing coloured ones, and loose cloth, silk, or +muslin trousers. + +The costume of the sultan's court or hangers-on, is strictly +Tripoline, and as fine as lace or presents of cast off-clothes can +make them. It is the custom with Mukni, in imitation of the bashaw, +to bestow occasionally on his principal people some article of dress. +Those presents are made with much affected dignity, by throwing the +garment to the person intended to be honoured, and saying, "Wear +that," the dress is immediately put on in his presence, and the +receiver kneels and kisses his hand in token of gratitude. Captain +Lyon once saw the old kadi, who was very corpulent, receive as a gift +a kaftan, which was so small for him, that when he had squeezed +himself into it, he was unable to move his arms, and was in that +condition obliged to walk home. + +Each of the sultan's sons has a large troop of slaves, who attend him +wherever he goes; they are generally about the same age as their +master, and are his playmates, though they are obliged to receive +from him many hearty cuffs, without daring to complain. The suite of +the youngest boy in particular, formed a very amusing groupe, few of +them exceeding five years of age. One bears his master's _bornouse,_ +another holds one shoe, walking next to the boy who carries its +fellow. Some are in fine cast-off clothes, with tarnished embroidery, +whilst others are quite or nearly naked, without even a cap on their +heads, and the procession is closed by a boy, tottering under the +weight of his master's state gun, which is never allowed to be fired +off. + +In Mourzouk, the luxuries of life are very limited, the people +principally subsisting on dates. Many do not, for months together, +taste corn; when obtained, they make it into a paste called _asooda,_ +which is a softer kind of _bazeen._ Fowls have now almost disappeared +in the country, owing to the sultan having appropriated all he could +find for the consumption of his own family. The sheep and goats are +driven from the mountains near Benioleed, a distance of four hundred +miles; they pass over one desert, which, at their rate of travelling, +occupies five days, without food or water. Numbers therefore die, +which in course raises the price of the survivors, They are valued at +three or four dollars each, when they arrive, being quite skeletons, +and are as high as ten and twelve, when fatted. Bread is badly made, +and is baked in ovens formed of clay in holes in the earth, and +heated by burning wood; the loaves, or rather flat cakes are struck +into the side, and are thus baked by the heat which rises from the +embers. Butter is brought in goat-skins from the Syrtis, and is very +dear. Tobacco is very generally chewed by the women, as well as by +the men. They use it with the _trona_ (soda). Smoking is the +amusement of a great man, rather than of the lower class, the mild +tobacco being very dear, and pipes not easily procured. + +The revenues of the sultan of Fezzan arise from slaves, merchandise, +and dates. For every slave, great or small, he receives, on their +entering his kingdom, two Spanish dollars; in some years the number +of slaves amount to 4,000; for a camel's load of oil or butter, seven +dollars; for a load of beads, copper, or hardware, four dollars; and +of clothing, three dollars. All Arabs, who buy dates pay a dollar +duty on each load, equal at times to the price of the article, before +they are allowed to remove it. Above 3,000 loads are sold to them +annually. Date trees, except those of the kadi and mamlukes, are +taxed at the rate of one dollar for every two hundred; by this duty, +in the neighbourhood of Mourzouk, or more properly in the few +immediately neighbouring villages, the sultan receives yearly 10,000 +dollars. Of all sheep or goats, he is entitled to a fifth. On the +sale of every slave, he has, in addition to the head-money, a dollar +and a half, which, at the rate of 4,000, gives another 6,000 dollars. +The captured slaves are sold by auction, at which the sultan's +brokers attend, bidding high only for the finest. The owner bids +against them until he has an offer equal to what he considers as the +value of the slave; he has then three-fourths of the money paid to +him, while one-fourth is paid by the purchaser to the sultan. Should +the owner not wish to part with his slaves, he buys them in, and the +sum which he last names, is considered as the price, from which he +has to pay the sultan's share. The trees, which are his private +property, produce about 6,000 camel loads of dates, each load 400 +pounds weight, and which may be estimated at 18,000 dollars. Every +garden pays a _tenth_ of the corn produced. The gardens are very +small, and are watered, with great labour, from brackish wells. Rain +is unknown, and dews never fall. In these alone corn is raised, as +well as other esculents. Pomegranates and fig-trees are sometimes +planted in the water-channels. Presents of slaves are frequently +made, and fines levied. Each town pays a certain sum, which is small; +but as the towns are numerous, it may be averaged to produce 4,000 +dollars. Add to this his annual excursions for slaves, sometimes +bringing 1,000 or 1,600, of which one-fourth are his, as well as the +same proportion of camels. He alone can sell horses, which he buys +for five or six dollars, when half starved, from the Arabs, who come +to trade, and cannot maintain them, and makes a great profit by +obtaining slaves in exchange for them. All his people are fed by the +public, and he has no money to pay, except to the bashaw, which is +about 15,000 dollars per annum. There are various other ways, in +which he extorts money. If a man dies childless, the sultan inherits +great part of his property; and if he thinks it necessary to kill a +man, he becomes his entire heir. + +In Mourzouk, about a tenth part of the population are slaves, though +many of them have been brought away from their native country so +young as hardly to be considered in that light. With respect to the +household slaves, little or no difference is to be perceived between +them and freemen, and they are often entrusted with the affairs of +their master. These domestic slaves are rarely sold, and on the death +of any of the family to which they belong, one or more of them +receive their liberty; when, being accustomed to the country, and not +having any recollection of their own, they marry, settle, and are +consequently considered as naturalised. It was the custom, when the +people were more opulent, to liberate a male or female on the feast +of Bairam, after the fast of Rhamadan. This practice is not entirely +obsolete, but nearly so. In Mourzouk there are some white families, +who are called mamlukes, being descended from renegades, whom the +bashaw had presented to the former sultan. These families and their +descendants are considered noble, and, however poor and low their +situation may be, are not a little vain of their title. + +The general appearance of the men of Fezzan is plain, and their +complexion black. The women are of the same colour, and ugly in the +extreme. Neither sex are remarkable for figure, weight, strength, +vigour, or activity. They have a very peculiar cast of countenance, +which distinguishes them from other blacks; their cheek-bones are +higher and more prominent, their faces flatter, and their noses less +depressed, and more peaked at the tip than those of the negroes. +Their eyes are generally small, and their mouths of an immense width; +but their teeth are frequently good; their hair is woolly, though not +completely frizzled. They are a cheerful people, fond of dancing and +music, and obliging to each other. The men almost all read and write +a little, but in every thing else they are very dull and heavy; their +affections are cold and selfish, and a kind of general indifference +to the common incidents of life, mark all their actions. They are +neither prone to sudden anger, nor at all revengeful. In Mourzouk the +men drink a great quantity of _lackbi,_ or a drink called _busa,_ +which is prepared from the dates, and is very intoxicating. The men +are good-humoured drunkards, and when friends assemble in the +evening, the ordinary amusement is mere drinking; but sometimes a +_kadanka_ (singing girl) is sent for. The Arabs practise hospitality +generally; but among the Fezzaners that virtue does not exist, they +are, however, very attentive and obsequious to those in whose power +they are, or who can repay them tenfold for their pretended +disinterestedness. Their religion enjoins, that, should a stranger +enter while they are at their meals, he must be invited to partake, +but they generally contrive to evade this injunction by eating with +closed doors. The lower classes are from necessity very industrious, +women as well as men, as they draw water, work in the gardens, drive +the asses, make mats, baskets, &c. in addition to their other +domestic duties. People of the better class, or, more properly, those +who can afford to procure slaves to work for them, are, on the +contrary, very idle and lethargic; they do nothing but lounge or loll +about, inquiring what their neighbours have had for dinner, gossip +about slaves, dates, &c., or boast of some cunning cheat, which they +have practised on a Tibboo or Tuarick, who, though very knowing +fellows, are, comparatively with the Fezzaners, fair in their +dealings. Their moral character is on a par with that of the +Tripolines, though, if any thing, they are rather less insincere. +Falsehood is not considered odious, unless when detected; and when +employed in trading, they affirm that it is allowed by the Koran, for +the good of merchants. However this may be, Captain Lyon asserts, +that he never could find any one able to point out the passage +authorizing these commercial falsehoods. + +The lower classes work neatly in leather; they weave a few coarse +barracans, and make iron-work in a solid, though clumsy manner. One +or two work in gold and silver with much skill, considering the +badness of their tools, and every man is capable of acting as a +carpenter or mason; the wood being that of the date tree, and the +houses being built of mud, very little elegance or skill is +necessary. Much deference is paid to the artists in leather or +metals, who are called, _par excellence, sta,_ or master, as +leather-master, iron-master, &c. + +From the constant communication with Bornou and Soudan, the languages +of both these countries are generally spoken, and many of their words +are introduced into the Arabic. The family slaves and their children +by their masters, constantly speak the language of the country, +whence they originally come. Their writing is in the Mogrebyn +character, which is used, as is supposed by Captain Lyon, universally +in western Africa, and differs much from that of the east. The +pronunciation is also very different, the kaf being pronounced as a +G, and only marked with one nunnation, and F is pointed below; they +have no idea of arithmetic, but reckon every thing by dots on the +sand, ten in a line; many can hardly tell how much two and two amount +to. They expressed great surprise at the Europeans being able to add +numbers together without fingering. Though very fond of poetry, they +are incapable of composing it. The Arabs, however, invent a few +little songs, which the natives have much pleasure in learning, and +the women sing some of the negro airs very prettily, while grinding +their corn. + +The songs of the kadankas (singing girls), who answer to the Egyptian +almehs, is Soudanic. Their musical instrument is called rhababe, or +erhab. It is an excavated hemisphere, made from the shell of a gourd +lime, and covered with leather; to this a long handle is fixed, on +which is stretched a string of horse hairs, longitudinally closed, +and compact as one cord, about the thickness of a quill. This is +played upon with a bow. Captain Lyon says, the women really produced +a very pleasing, though a wild melody; their songs were pretty and +plaintive, and generally in the Soudan language, which is very +musical. What is rather singular, he heard the same song sung by the +same woman that Horneman mentions, and she recollected having seen +that traveller at the castle. + +The lower classes and the slaves, who, in point of colour and +appearance, are the same, labour together. The freeman has, however, +only one inducement to work, which is hunger; he has no notion of +laying by any thing for the advantage of his family, or as a reserve +for himself in his old age; but if by any chance he obtains money, he +remains idle until it is expended, and then returns unwillingly to +work. The females here are allowed greater liberty than those of +Tripoli, and are more kindly treated. Though so much better used than +those of Barbary, their life is still a state of slavery. A man never +ventures to speak of his women; is reproached, if he spends much time +in their company, never eats with them; but is waited upon at his +meals, and fanned by them while he sleeps. Yet these poor beings, +never having known the sweets of liberty, are, in spite of their +humiliation, comparatively happy. + +The authority of parents over their children is very great; some +fathers of the better class do not allow their sons even to eat or +sit down in their presence, until they become men; the poorer orders +are less strict. + +There are no written records of events amongst the Fezzaners, and +their traditions are so disfigured, and so strangely mingled with +religious and superstitious falsehoods, that no confidence can be +placed in them. Yet the natives themselves look with particular +respect on a man capable of talking of the people of the olden time. +Several scriptural traditions are selected and believed. The Psalms +of David, the Pentateuch, the Books of Solomon, and many extracts +from the inspired writers, are universally known, and most +reverentially considered. The New Testament, translated into the +Arabic, which Captain Lyon took with him, was eagerly read, and no +exception was made to it, but that of our Saviour being designated as +the son of God. St. Paul, or Baulus, bears all the blame of Mahomet's +name not being inserted in it, as they believe that his coming was +foretold by Christ, but that Paul erased it; he is therefore called a +kaffir, and his name is not used with much reverence. + +Captain Lyon had not been more than ten days at Mourzouk, before he +was attacked with severe dysentery, which confined him to his bed +during twenty-two days, and reduced him to the last extremity. His +unadorned narrative conveys an affecting account of the sufferings to +which the party were exposed from the insalubrity of the climate; the +inadequate arrangements which had been made for their comfort, or +even subsistence, and the sordid and treacherous conduct of the +sultan. "Our little party," he says, "was at this time miserably +poor; for we had money only sufficient for the purchase of corn to +keep us alive, and never tasted meat, unless fortunate enough to kill +a pigeon in the gardens. My illness was the first break up in our +little community, and from that time, it rarely happened that one or +two of us were not confined to our beds. The extreme saltness of the +water, the poor quality of our food, together with the excessive heat +and dryness of the climate, long retarded my recovery, and when it +did take place, it was looked on as a miracle by those who had seen +me in my worst state, and who thought it impossible for me to +survive. I was no sooner convalescent than Mr. Ritchie fell ill, and +was confined to his bed with an attack of bilious fever, accompanied +with delirium, and great pain in his back and kidneys, for which he +required frequent cupping. When a little recovered, he got up for two +days, but his disorder soon returned with redoubled and alarming +violence. He rejected every thing but water, and, excepting about +three hours in the afternoon, remained either constantly asleep or in +a delirious state. Even had he been capable of taking food, we had +not the power of purchasing any which could nourish or refresh him. +Our money was now all expended, and the sultan's treacherous plans to +distress us, which daily became too apparent, were so well arranged, +that we could not find any one to buy our goods. For six entire weeks +we were without animal food, subsisting on a very scanty portion of +corn and dates. Our horses were mere skeletons, added to which, +Belford became totally deaf, and so emaciated as to be unable to +walk. My situation was now such as to create the most gloomy +apprehensions. My naturally sanguine mind, however, and above all, my +firm reliance on that Power which had so mercifully protected me on +so many trying occasions, prevented my giving way to despondency; and +Belford beginning soon to rally a little, we united, and took turns +in nursing and attending on our poor companion. At this time, having +no servant, we performed for Mr. Ritchie the most menial offices. +Two young men, brothers, whom we had treated with great kindness, and +whom we had engaged to attend on us, so far from commiserating our +forlorn condition, forsook us in our distress, and even carried off +our little store of rice and cuscoussou; laughing at our complaints, +and well knowing that our poverty prevented the redress which we +should otherwise have sought and obtained." + +Rhamadan, the Mahommedan Lent, was announced on the 22nd June. The +strictest fast was immediately commenced, lasting from before day, +about three a.m., till sunset, seven p.m. In order to support their +assumed character as Moslem; they were now obliged, during the +sixteen hours, to eat only by stealth, their friend Mukni having +surrounded them with spies. Mr. Ritchie only, being confined to his +bed by illness, was privileged to take food or drink. The excessive +heat, which now raged, added to their sufferings. During the month of +June, the thermometer, at five o'clock a.m., stood at from 86° to +93°, but at two o'clock p.m., it rose to 117°, 122°, 124°, and at +length, on the 19th and 20th, to 131° and 133° of Fahrenheit. In the +early part of July, the heat somewhat abated; the thermometer, at two +p.m., ranging between 110° and 117°. Towards the close of the month, +it again rose to 125°, in August to 130° and 133°, in September it +ranged between 119° and 133°, with little difference in the +temperature of the mornings; and in October, the average was about +110°. The minimum, in December, was 51° at five a.m., and 77° in the +afternoon. + +The close of the Rhamadan, on the 22d July, was attended, in the +city, with the most extravagant demonstrations of rejoicing. +Everybody was in motion, screaming, dancing, firing guns, eating and +drinking. Poor Mr. Ritchie, after having been confined to his bed for +fifty-eight days, was now able to sit up a little, and by the 20th +August had tolerably recovered. About the same time, Belford was +again attacked with giddiness and deafness, and fell into a very weak +state. Their rate of living was now reduced to a quart of corn _per +diem,_ with occasionally a few dates, divided amongst four persons. +No one would purchase their merchandize, owing, as it became apparent +to Mukni's treacherous orders. Mr. Ritchie, for reasons not +explained, did not think it right to draw for money on the treasury, +and they were reduced to the last extremity, when the sultan +graciously condescended to advance them eight dollars, and at this +time a neighbour repaid them ten dollars, which they had lent soon +after their arrival. They were now able to treat themselves with a +little meat. About the 20th September, Mr. Ritchie, who had never +recovered his spirits, but had latterly shunned the society even of +his companions, again relapsed, and was confined to his bed, and +Belford, though better in health, was entirely deaf; their condition +became every day more destitute. They had hired a woman to cook for +them at a dollar a month. She was required to come only once a day, +to bake their bread or make their cuscoussou; and it often happened, +that when she had stolen half the allowance to which they had +restricted themselves, they were obliged to fast till the morrow. +They were saved, when on the very brink of starvation, by a supply of +seven dollars, the munificent reward conferred upon Belford by the +sultan, for constructing a rude kind of carriage for him. Soon +afterwards, they sold a horse for seventy dollars. This seasonable +supply was carefully economized; but it had become much reduced when +Captain Lyon and Belford both fell ill again. The former rose from +his bed, after being confined to it for a week, a skeleton. Under +this exigency they met with a remarkable instance of disinterested +friendship on the part of a native, Yusuf el Lizari, who, as well as +his brother, had previously shown them much kindness. "One night," +says Captain Lyon, "as we were all sitting pensively on our mat, our +friend Yusuf came in, and, addressing Mr. Ritchie, said, 'Yusuf, you, +and Said are my friends. Mukni has hopes you may die, that he may +secure to himself all your goods. You seem very melancholy; do you +want money?' Mr. Ritchie having acknowledged that he did, Yusuf +rejoined, 'I have none myself, but I will borrow some for you.' +Twenty dollars being the sum named, our kind friend went out, and +soon returned with thirty, an act of generosity so unlocked for, that +we were incapable of thanking him as he deserved. This seasonable +supply enabled us to buy some good food, and to make some amends for +our late privations. Our health soon improved, and Mr. Ritchie's +spirits began to brighten." + +But this interval of hope was soon darkened. On the 8th of November, +poor Ritchie was again attacked by illness, and after lying for three +or four days in a state of torpor, without taking any refreshment, he +again became delirious, and on the 20th expired. The two survivors of +this ill-fated party were themselves reduce to the lowest state of +debility, and the only prospect before them, was that of probably +following, in a few days, their lamented companion. "And now, for the +first time in all our distresses," says Captain Lyon, "my hopes did +indeed fail me. Belford, as well as he was able, hastened to form a +rough coffin out of their chests, while the washers of the dead came +to perform their melancholy office. The protestant burial service was +read over the body, in secret, during the night, and on the next day, +the remains were committed to the grave. At the grave, it was deemed +necessary to keep up the farce of Mahommadism, by publicly reciting +the first chapter of the Koran, which the most serious Christian +would consider as a beautiful and applicable form on such an +occasion." + +Within an hour after the funeral, a courier arrived from Tripoli, +announcing that a further allowance of £1,000 had been made by the +British government towards the expenses of the expedition. Had this +welcome intelligence reached them a little sooner, many of their +distresses would have been prevented. The efforts and mental +exertions which the survivors of the party had undergone, proved, +however, too much for their strength, and, for ten days, both were +again confined to their beds. During this time, they were most +humanely attended by Yusuf and Haji Mahmoud, and by a little girl, +who was their principal nurse. At length, Captain Lyon sufficiently +recovered his health, to undertake, during the months of December and +January, two excursions to the east and south of Mourzouk, +preparatory to his return to England. On the 9th of February, he +finally left Mourzouk; and on the 25th March, exactly one year from +the day on which the party left Tripoli, the Captain and Belford, his +surviving companion, re-entered that capital. + + + +CHAPTER XIX. + +Death had hitherto been the lot of the African adventurers, but +nothing could shake the determination of the British government, to +obtain, by some means or other, a competent degree of information +respecting the unknown countries of Africa. The great favour enjoyed +at the court of Tripoli, was still regarded as an advantageous +circumstance. It was chiefly due to the prudence and ability of Mr. +Warrington, without whose advice scarcely any thing of importance was +transacted. The bashaw was therefore disposed to renew his protection +to whatever mission Britain might send; nor could the support of any +sovereign have been more efficient, for the influence of this petty +prince, and the terror of his name, were almost unbounded in the +greatest kingdoms of central Africa. One weapon, the gun, in the +hands of his troops, gives him all this superiority; for the remoter +nations, from the Nile to the Atlantic, scarcely know any other arms +besides the spear, the bow, and the javelin. A musket among those +tribes is an object of almost supernatural dread; individuals have +been seen kneeling down before it, speaking to it in whispers, and +addressing to it earnest supplications. With troops thus armed, the +bashaw of Tripoli is esteemed, in northern Africa, the most potent +monarch on earth; and it is a matter of surprise amongst the natives, +that he has not ere now compelled all Europe to embrace the +Mahommedan faith. He could, therefore, assure the English, that for +any but physical obstacles, they might travel in safety from Tripoli +to Bornou, as from Edinburgh to London. + +Under the confidence inspired by these circumstances, government +prepared another expedition, and without difficulty procured a fresh +band of adventurers, who undertook to brave all its perils. Major +Denham, Lieutenant Clapperton, of the navy, and Dr. Oudney, a naval +surgeon, possessing a considerable knowledge of natural history, were +appointed to the service. Without delay they proceeded to Tripoli, +where they arrived on the 18th November, 1821. They were immediately +introduced to the bashaw, whom they found sitting cross-legged on a +carpet, attended by armed negroes. After treating them to sherbet and +coffee, he invited them to a hawking party, where he appeared mounted +on a milk-white Arabian steed, superbly caparisoned, having a saddle +of crimson velvet, richly studded with gold nails and with +embroidered trappings. The hunt began on the borders of the desert, +where parties of six or eight Arabs dashed forward quick as +lightning, fired suddenly, and rushed back with loud cries. The +skill, with which they manoeuvred their steeds, whirling the long +muskets over their heads, as they rode at full gallop, appeared quite +surprising. + +On the 5th March, the party left Tripoli for Benioleed. Here the +consul and his son, who had accompanied them from Tripoli, took their +leave, with many hearty good wishes for their success and prosperity. + +On the day previously to their approach to Sockna, the uniformity of +the journey was somewhat enlivened, by meeting with a kafila, or +coffle of slaves from Fezzan, in which were about seventy negresses, +much better looking and more healthy than any they had seen near the +sea coast. They were marching in parties of fifteen or twenty, and on +inquiring of one of these parties from whence they came, the poor +things divided themselves with the greatest simplicity, and answered, +"Soudan, Berghami and Kanem," pointing out the different parcels from +each country as they spoke. Those from Soudan had the most regular +features, and an expression of countenance particularly pleasing. + +Passing a small wadey and plantation of date trees, they had soon a +view of Sockna, and were met on the plain on which it stands, by the +governor and principal inhabitants, accompanied by some hundreds of +the country people, who all crowded round their horses, kissing their +hands, and welcoming them with every appearance of sincerity and +satisfaction, and in this way they entered the town; the words +_Inglesi, Inglesi,_ were repeated by a hundred voices. This was to +them highly satisfactory, as they were the first English travellers +in Africa, who had resisted the persuasion that a disguise was +necessary, and who had determined to travel in their real character +as Britons and Christians, and to wear on all occasions their English +dresses; nor had they at any future period occasion to regret that +they had done so. There was here neither jealousy nor distrust of +them as Christians, on the contrary, Major Denham was perfectly +satisfied that their reception would have been less friendly, had +they assumed a character that would have been at the best but ill +supported. In trying to make themselves appear as Mussulmans, they +would have been set down as real impostors. + +Of the inhabitants of Sockna, we have already given a full account in +the foregoing travels of Captain Lyon, nor does the history given by +Major Denham differ in any of the essential points. Of the affability +of the females, the travellers had however many proofs, and whilst +only two of them were walking through the town one morning, with a +little army of ragged boys following them, two of rather the better +order quickly dispersed them, and invited the English to enter a +house, saying that a _mara zene,_ a beautiful woman, wished to see +them. They put themselves under their guidance, and entering a better +sort of dwelling house, were quickly surrounded by half a dozen +ladies, most of them aged, but who asked them a thousand questions, +and when satisfied that their visitors were not dangerous people, +called several younger ones, who appeared to be but waiting for +permission to show themselves. The dresses of the visitors were +then minutely examined; the yellow buttons on their waistcoats, and +their watches created the greatest astonishment. Major Denham wore a +pair of loose white trousers, into the pockets of which he +accidentally put his hands, which raised the curiosity of the ladies +to a wonderful degree; the major's hands were pulled out, and those +of three or four of the ladies thrust in, in their stead; these were +replaced by others, all demanding their use so violently and loudly, +that he had considerable difficulty in extricating himself, and was +glad to make his escape. + +The remaining half of their journey to Mourzouk was pretty nearly the +same kind of surface as they had passed before, but in some places +worse. Sometimes two, and once three days, they were without finding +a supply of water, which was generally muddy, bitter, or brackish. +Nor is this the worst which sometimes befals the traveller; the +overpowering effect of a sudden sand-wind, when nearly at the close +of the desert, often destroys a whole kafila, already weakened by +fatigue, and the spot was pointed out to them strewed with bones and +dried carcasses, where the year before, fifty sheep, two camels, and +two men perished from thirst and fatigue, when within eight hours +march of the well, for which they were then anxiously looking. + +Indeed the sand storm they had the misfortune to encounter in +crossing the desert, gave them a pretty correct idea of the dreaded +effects of these hurricanes. The wind raised the fine sand, with +which the extensive desert was covered, so as to fill the atmosphere, +and render the immense space before them impenetrable to the eye +beyond a few yards. The sun and clouds were entirely obscured, and a +suffocating and oppressive weight accompanied the flakes and masses +of sand, which it might be said they had to penetrate at every step. +At times they completely lost sight of the camels, though only a few +yards before them. The horses hung their tongues out of their mouths, +and refused to face the torrents of sand. A sheep that accompanied +the kafila, the last of their stock, lay down in the road, and they +were obliged to kill him and throw the carcass on a camel; a parching +thirst oppressed them, which nothing alleviated. They had made but +little way by three o'clock in the afternoon, when the wind got round +to the eastward, and imparted to them a little refreshment. With this +change they moved on until about five, when they halted, protected a +little by three several ranges of irregular hills, some conical, and +some table-topped. As they had but little wood, their fare was +confined to tea, and they hoped to find relieve from their fatigues +by a sound sleep. That, however, was denied them; the tent had been +imprudently pitched, and was exposed to the east wind, which blew a +hurricane during the night: the tent was blown down, and the whole +detachment were employed a full hour in getting it up again; their +bedding and everything within it was during that time completely +buried, by the constant driving of the sand. Major Denham was obliged +three times during the night, to get up for the purpose of +strengthening the pegs, and when he awoke in the morning, two +hillocks of sand were formed on each side of his head, some inches +high. On the 7th April, they arrived at a village in the midst of a +vast multitude of palm trees, just one day's journey short of +Mourzouk. As it was to be the last day's march, they were all in good +spirits at the prospect of rest, and had they made their arrangements +with judgment, every thing would have gone on well. They had, +however, neglected sending _an axant courier,_ to advise the sultan +of their arrival, a practice which ought particularly to have been +attended to, and consequently their reception was not what it ought +to have been. They arrived at D'leem, a small plantation of date +trees, at noon, and finding no water in the well, were obliged to +proceed, and it was three in the afternoon before they arrived at the +wells near Mourzouk. Here they were obliged to wait till the camels +came up, in order that they might advance in form. They might, +however, have saved themselves the trouble. No one came out to meet +them, except some naked boys, and a mixture of Tibboos, Tuaricks, and +Fezzanese, who gazed at them with astonishment, and no very pleasant +aspect. + +They determined on not entering the town, in a manner so little +flattering to those whom they represented, and retiring to a rising +ground, a little distance from the gates of the town, waited the +return of a _chaoush,_ who had been despatched to announce their +arrival. After half an hour's delay, the Shiek el Blad, the governor +of the town came out, and in the sultan's name requested they would +accompany him to the house, which had been prepared for them, and he +added, to their great surprise, the English consul is there already. +The fact was, a very ill-looking Jew servant of Major Denham's, +mounted on a white mule, with a pair of small canteens under him, had +preceded the camels and entered the town by himself. He was received +with great respect by all the inhabitants, conducted through the +streets to the house which was destined to receive the party, and +from the circumstance of the canteens being all covered with small +brass shining nails, a very high idea, of his consequence was formed. +He very sensibly received ail their attentions in silence, and drank +the cool water and milk which were handed to him, and they always had +the laugh against them afterwards, for having shown so much civility +to an Israelite, a race which are heartily despised. "We thought the +English," said they, "were better looking than Jews--death to their +race! but the God made us all, though not all handsome like +Mussulmans, so who could tell?" + +As they were all this time exposed to a burning sun, they were well +inclined to compromise a little of their dignity, and determined on +entering the town, which they did by the principal gate. Their +interview with the sultan of Mourzouk was anything but encouraging; +he told them that there was no intention, as they had been led to +expect, of any expedition to proceed to the southward for some time +to come; that an army could only move in the spring of the year; that +the arrangements for moving a body of men through a country, where +every necessary must be carried on camels, both for men and horses, +were go numerous, that before the following spring it was scarcely +possible to complete them, that two camels were required for every +man and horse, and one for every two men on foot. And as to their +proceeding to Bornou, it would be necessary had the bashaw instructed +him to forward them, that they should be accompanied by an escort of +two hundred men. He said, he would read to them the bashaw's letter, +and they should see the extent to which he could forward their +wishes. The letter was then handed to his fighi, or secretary, and +they found that they were entrusted to the protection of the sultan +of Fezzan, who was to charge himself with their safety, and to ensure +their being treated with respect and attention by all his subjects. +That they were to reside at Sebha or Mourzouk, or wherever they chose +in the kingdom of Fezzan, and to await his return from Tripoli. With +this their audience ended, and they returned to their habitation. + +It is quite impossible to express the disheartening feelings, with +which they left the castle. The heat was intense; the thermometer +standing at 97° in the coolest spot in the house during the of the +day; and the nights were scarcely less oppressive; the flies were in +such myriads, that darkness was the only refuge from their annoyance. + +They received visits from all the principal people of Mourzouk, the +day after their arrival, and remarking a very tall Turiack, with a +pair of expressive, large, benevolent looking eyes, above the black +mask, with which they always cover the lower part of their face, +hovering about the door, Major Denham made signs to him to come near, +and inquired after Hateeta, the chief, of whom Captain Lyon had +spoken so highly, and for whom at his request, he was the bearer of a +sword. To the great surprise of Major Denham, striking his breast, he +exclaimed, "I am Hateeta, Are you a countryman of Said? (Captain +Lyon's travelling name,) How is he? I have often longed to hear of +him." Major Denham found that Hateeta had been but once in Mourzouk, +since the departure of Captain Lyon, and was to remain only a few +days. On the following morning, he came to the house, and the sword +was presented to him. It would be difficult to describe his delight, +he drew the sword and returned it repeatedly, pressed it to his +breast, exclaimed, Allah! Allah! took the hand of Major Denham, and +pressing it, said, _katar heyrick yassur yassur,_ (thank you very, +very much,) nearly all the Arabic he could speak. It was shortly +reported all over the town, that Hateeta had received a present from +Said, worth one hundred dollars. + +They had been several times visited, and their hopes and spirits +raised by a person called Boo Bucker, Boo Khaloom. He said that it +was in the sultan's power to send them on to Bornou, if he pleased, +he even hinted that a bribe for himself might induce him to do so; +this, however, was found not to be the case. Boo Khaloom was +represented to them, and truly, as a merchant of very considerable +riches and affluence in the interior. He was on the eve of starting +for Tripoli, with really superb presents for the bashaw. He had five +hundred slaves, the handsomest that could be procured, besides other +things. He stated in secret, that his principal object in going to +Tripoli, was to obtain the removal of the sultan of Fezzan, and he +wished that they should make application to the bashaw, for him to +accompany them further into the interior; they were not, however, to +hint that the proposition had come from him. Boo Khaloom said, that +he should be instantly joined by upwards of one hundred merchants, +who waited for his going, and no further escort would be necessary; +that he should merely remain a few weeks in Tripoli, and on his +return they should instantly move on. + +Boo Khaloom left Mourzouk for Tripoli with his slaves and presents, +loading upwards of thirty camels, apparently reconciled to, and upon +good terms with the sultan. It was, however, very well known, that +Sultan Mustapha had set every engine at work to have Boo Khaloom's +head taken off, on his arrival at Tripoli, and that the other was +willing to sacrifice all that he was worth to displace and ruin +Mustapha in the bashaw's favour. + +It was not until the 18th, that the sultan, after attending the +mosque, started for Tripoli; all his camels and suite had marched in +divisions for three days previously; in slaves he had alone more than +1,500. He was attended by about ten horsemen, his particular +favourites, and four flags were carried before him, through the town. +The inhabitants complained dreadfully of his avarice, and declared +that he had not left a dollar, or an animal worth one, in all Fezzan. + +Nothing was now to be done but to make their arrangements for a +favourable start the following spring. By the sultan's departure, +every necessary for their proceeding was withdrawn from the spot +where they were. Not a camel was to be procured, and every dollar, +that he could by any means force from his subjects, was forwarded to +Tripoli. To that place, therefore, were they to look for supplies of +every kind, and it was unanimously decided, that the departure of +Major Denham for Tripoli should follow that of the sultan or as soon +as possible. + +In pursuance of this determination to represent to the bashaw of +Tripoli, how necessary it was that something more than promises +should be given them for their sterling money, on Monday, the 20th +May, Major Denham left Mourzouk, with only his own negro servant, +three camels, and two Arabs, and after a most dreary journey of +twenty days, over the same uninteresting country which he had already +traversed, the more dreary for want of his former companions, he +arrived at Tripoli on the 12th June, where he was received by the +consul, with his usual hospitality and kindness, and he assigned him +apartments in the consulate. + +Major Denham requested an immediate audience of the bashaw, which, in +consequence of the Rhamadan, was not granted him until the following +evening. The consul, Captain Smyth of the navy, and Major Denham, +attended. The latter represented, in the strongest terms, how greatly +they were disappointed at the unexpected and ruinous delay, which +they had experienced at Mourzouk, and requested a specific time being +fixed for their proceeding to Bornou, stating also, that were the +answer not satisfactory, he should proceed forthwith to England, and +represent to the government how grievously they had been deceived. +The I bashaw denied having intentionally broken his word, and +solemnly declared that the will of God, in visiting the sultan of +Fezzan with sickness, had alone prevented their being now on the road +to Bornou. + +Not receiving the full satisfaction which was expected, Major Denham +lost no time in setting sail for England, to lodge a complaint with +his own court. This news was painfully felt by the bashaw, who sent +vessel after vessel, one of which at last overtook Major Denham, +while performing quarantine at Marseilles, and announced to him, that +arrangements were actually made with Boo Khaloom, for escorting him +to the capital of Bornou. Major Denham immediately re-embarked, and a +seven days' passage brought him once more to the shores of Barbary. +Boo Khaloom and part of the escort were already at the entrance of +the desert; and on the 17th September, they re-entered the pass of +Melghri in the Tarhona Mountains. + +Hope and confidence had now taken possession of the mind of Major +Denham, in the place of anxiety and disappointment; there was now an +air of assurance and success in all their arrangements, and, with +this conviction, Major Denham felt his health and spirits increase. +But little beyond the casualties attendant on desert travelling, +occurred previously to their arriving again at Sockna, which took +place on the 2nd October. + +Major Denham found that the great failing of his friend, Boo Khaloom, +was pomp and show; and feeling that he was on this occasion the +representative of the bashaw, he was evidently unwilling that any +sultan of Fezzan should exceed him in magnificence. On entering +Sockna, his six principal followers, handsomely attired in turbans +and fine barracans, and mounted on his best horses, kept near his +person, whilst the others at a little distance, formed the flanks. +Major Denham rode on his right hand, dressed in his British uniform, +with loose Turkish trousers, a red turban, red boots, with a white +bornouse over all, as a shade from the sun, and this, though not +strictly according to orders, was by no means an unbecoming dress. +Boo Khaloom was mounted on a beautiful white Tunisian horse, a +present from the bashaw, the peak and rear of the saddle covered with +gold, and his housings were of scarlet cloth, with a border of gold +six inches broad. His dress consisted of red boots, richly +embroidered with gold, yellow silk trousers, a crimson velvet caftan +with gold buttons, a silk benise of sky blue, and a silk sidria +underneath. A transparent white silk barraca was thrown lightly over +this, and on his shoulder hung a scarlet bornouse with wide gold +lace, a present also from the bashaw, which had cost at least four +hundred dollars, and a cashmere shawl turban crowned the whole. In +this splendid array they moved on, until, as they approached the +gates of the town, the dancing and singing men and women met them, +and amidst these, the shouts and firing of the men, who skirmished +before them, and the loo! loo! of the women, they entered Sockna. + +They found that houses were provided for them in the town, but the +kafila bivouacked outside the gates. It had always been their +intention to halt at Sockna for three or four days, and here they +expected to be joined by a party of Megarha Arabs, whom their sheik, +Abdi Smud ben Erhoma, had left them for the purpose of collecting +together. Hoon and Wadan were also to furnish them with another +quota. + +The house of Major Denham consisted of a court yard eighteen feet +square, and a small dark room, leading out of it by two steps. The +court, however, was the greater part of the day shaded, and here on a +carpet, the major received his visitors. The Arabs, as they arrived, +were all sent to him by Boo Khaloom, and their presentation has a +form in it, not much in character with their accustomed rudeness: +they all come armed with their long guns, and the same girdle which +confines their barracan, contains also two long pistols; the chief +enters, and salutes, dropping on one knee, and touching the +stranger's right hand with his, which he carries afterwards to his +lips; he then says, "Here are my men, who are come to say health to +you." On receiving permission, they approached Major Denham one by +one, saluting in the same manner as their chief, who continued to +remain at his side; they then sat down, forming a sort of semi-circle +round the major, with their guns upright between their knees, and +after a little time, on the sheik's making a signal, they all quitted +the presence. + +Boo Khaloom at this time became so alarmingly ill, that their +departure was of necessity postponed. He requested Major Denham to +prescribe for him. All the fighis' (writers,) and marabouts in +Sockna, were employed on this occasion by the friends of Boo Khaloom; +and one night the tassels of his cap were literally loaded with their +charms. Boo Khaloom assured Major Denham, when alone, that he had no +faith in such things, and smiled when he said his friends would think +ill of him, were he to refuse; his faith was, however, stronger than +he chose to acknowledge; for entering one morning unexpectedly, the +major found him with a dove, that had just been killed and cut open, +lying on his head, which, as he assured him, was, because a very +great marabout had come from Wadan on purpose to perform the +operation. Major Denham was nevertheless still more surprised to find +him seated on a carpet, in the centre of the little court yard of his +house, in the middle of the day, with five of his hordes round him, +which had been brought from the tents by his order. The major was +convinced, that this was some superstitious idea of the mystic +influence which his horses were supposed to have upon his fate, and +on expressing his surprise, he made him sit down and told him the +following story. + +"Sidi Mohammed, praise be to his name!" said he, "was once applied to +by a poor man, whose speculations in trade always turned out +disadvantageously; his children died, and nothing flourished with +him. Mohammed told him, that horses were nearly connected with his +fate, and that he must buy horses before he would be fortunate. 'If I +cannot afford to keep myself,' said the man, 'how can I feed +horses?'--'No matter,' said the prophet; alive or dead, no good +fortune will come upon your house until you have them.' The poor man +went and purchased the head of a dead horse, which was all his means +enabled him to do, and this he placed over his house, little dreaming +of the good fortune, which by this means he was to enjoy. Before the +first day passed, to his extreme surprise and joy, he saw a bird, +with a chain attached to its neck, entangled with the horse's head; +and, on mounting to the housetop to extricate the bird, he found it +one of the greatest beauty, and that the chain was of diamonds. He +was not long in discovering the bird had escaped from the window of +the favourite of a certain sultan, who, on its being restored, gave +the poor man the chain as his reward, and by means of which he became +rich and happy. Now," said Boo Khaloom, "I dreamt of this story last +night, and that I was the poor man." + +During their stay at Sockna, the marriage of the son of one of the +richest inhabitants, Haji Mohammed-el-Hair-Trigge, was celebrated in +the true Arab style. There is something so rudely chivalric in their +ceremonies, so very superior to the dull monotony of a Tripolitan +wedding, where from one to five hundred guests, all males assemble, +covered with gold lace, and look at one another from the evening of +one day until daylight the next, that we cannot refrain from +transcribing it. + +The morning of the marriage-day, (for the ceremony is always +performed in the evening, that is, the final ceremony, for they are +generally betrothed, and the fatah read a year before,) is ushered in +by the music of the town or tribe, consisting of a bagpipe and two +small drums, serenading the bride first, and then the bridegroom, who +generally walks through the streets, very finely dressed, with all +the town at his heels; during which all the women assemble at the +bride's house, dressed in their finest clothes, and place themselves +at the different holes in the walls, which serve as windows, and look +into the court-yard. When they are so placed, and the bride is in +front of one of the windows, with her face entirely covered with her +barracan, the bridal clothes, consisting of silk shifts, shawls, silk +trousers, and fine barracans, to show her riches, are hung from the +top of the house, quite reaching to the ground. The young Arab chiefs +are permitted to pay their respects; they are preceded from the +skiffa, or entrance, by their music, and a dancing woman or two +advance with great form, and with slow steps, to the centre of the +court, under the bride's window; here the ladies salute their +visitors with "loo! loo! loo!" which they return by laying their +right hand on their breasts, as they are conducted quite round the +circle. Ample time is afforded them to survey the surrounding +beauties, and there are but few who on those occasions are so cruel +as to keep the veil quite closed. Such an assemblage of bright black +eyes, large ear-rings, and white teeth, are but rarely seen in any +country. After having made the circuit, the largess is given, and +exposed to view by the chief _danseuse,_ and according to its amount, +is the donor hailed and greeted by the spectators. Previously to +their departure, all visitors discharge their pistols, and then again +the ladies salute with the loo! loo! + +So far from being displeased at Major Denham asking permission to pay +his respects, it was considered as a favour conferred, and the +bridegroom, although he could not himself be admitted, attended him +to and from the house of his mistress. This ceremony being ended, a +little before sunset, the bride prepares to leave her father's house; +a camel is sent for her, with a jaafa or sedan chair of basket work +on its back, covered with skins of animals, shawls from Soudan, +Cairo, and Timbuctoo; she steps into this, and so places herself as +to see what is going forward, and yet to lie entirely hidden from the +view of others. She is now conducted outside the town, where all the +horsemen and footmen, who have arms are assembled. The escort of the +travellers on this occasion added to the effect, as they were all by +Boo Khaloom's order in the field, consisting of sixty mounted Arabs, +and when they all charged and fired at the foot of the bride's camel, +Major Denham says, he really felt for the virgin's situation, but it +was thought a great honour, and that, he supposes, consoled her for +the fright. They commenced by skirmishing by twos and fours, and +charging in sections at full speed, always firing close under the +bride's jaafa; in this manner they proceeded three times round the +town, the scene occasionally relieved by a little interlude of the +bridegroom; approaching the camel, which was surrounded by the +negresses, who instantly commenced a cry, and drove him away, to the +great amusement of the bystanders, exclaiming, _"burra! Burra!"_ (be +off! be off!) _mazal shouia,_ (a little yet.) With discharges of +musketry, and the train of horsemen, &c., she is then conveyed to the +bridegroom's house, upon which it is necessary for her to appear +greatly surprised, and refuse to dismount; the women scream, and the +men shout, and she is at length persuaded to enter, when after +receiving a bit of sugar in her mouth, from the bridegroom's hand, +and placing another bit in his, with her own fair fingers, the +ceremony is finished, and they are declared man and wife. + +They had now to pass the Gibel Assoud, or Black Mountains; the +northernmost part of this basaltic chain commences on leaving Sockna. +They halted at Melaghi the place of meeting; immediately at the foot +of the mountain is the well of Agutifa, and from hence probably the +most imposing view of these heights will be seen. To the south, the +mountain path of Niffdah presents its black, overhanging peaks, the +deep chasm round which, the path winds, bearing a most cavern-like +appearance; a little to the west, the camel path, called El Nishka, +appears scarcely less difficult and precipitous; the more southern +crags close in the landscape, while the foreground is occupied by the +dingy and barren wadey of Agutifa, with the well immediately overhung +by red ridges of limestone and clay; the whole presenting a picture +of barrenness not to be perfectly described either by poet or +painter. + +The first four days of their journey after leaving Agutifa, were all +dreariness and misery. This was the third time that they had passed +these deserts, but no familiarity with the scenery at all relieves +the sense of wretchedness which the dread barrenness of the place +inspires. They marched from dawn until dark, for the sake of getting +over them as soon as possible, and as scarcely sufficient fuel was to +be found to boil a little water, a mass of cold tumuta was usually +their supper. + +On leaving Tingazeer they had the blessing of a rainy day, for such +it was to all, but particularly to the poor negroes who accompanied +the kafila; although Boo Khaloom always gave something to drink from +his skins once a day, an unusual kindness; yet, marching as they were +for twelve and fourteen hours, a single draught was scarcely +sufficient to satisfy nature. In consequence of the rain, they found +water fresh and pure during almost every day's march, and arrived at +Zeghren with the loss of only one camel. On the last day, previously +to arriving at the well, Omhul Abeed, a skeleton of a man, with some +flesh still hanging about him, lay close to the road, but it was +passed by the whole kafila with scarcely a remark. + +After these dreary wastes, it was no small pleasure to rest a day at +Zeghren, the native town of a considerable merchant, who accompanied +the kafila. When they first left Sockna for Mourzouk, Abdi Zeleel had +before taken Major Denham to his house, and presented him to his +mother and sister, and he now insisted upon his taking up his +quarters there altogether. Almost the first person who presented +herself, was his friend the merchant's sister, he had almost said, +the fair Omhal Henna, (the mother of peace.) We shall allow Major +Denham to relate this African amour in his own words:-- + +"She had a wooden bowl of haleb (fresh milk) in her hand, the +greatest rarity she could offer, and holding out the milk, with some +confusion, towards me, with both her hands, the hood, which should +have concealed her beautiful features, had fallen back. As my taking +my milk from her, would have prevented the amicable salutation we +both seemed prepared for, and which consisted of four or five gentle +pressures of the hand, with as many _aish harleks,_ and _tiels,_ and +_ham-dulillahs,_ she placed the bowl upon the ground, while the +ceremonies of greeting, which take up a much longer time in an +African village, than in an English drawing room, were by mutual +consent most cordially performed. I really could not help looking at +her with astonishment, and I heartily wish I had the power of +conveying an idea of her portrait. It was the jemma (Friday,) the +sabbath, and she was covered, for I cannot call it dressed, with only +a blue linen barracan, which passed under one arm, and was fastened +on the top of the opposite shoulder, with a silver pin, the remaining +part thrown round the body behind, and brought over her head as a +sort of hood, which, as I have before remarked, had fallen off, and +my having taken her hand, when she set down the milk, had prevented +its being replaced. This accident displayed her jet black hair, in +numberless plaits, all round her expressive face and neck, and her +large sparkling eyes and little mouth, filled with the whitest teeth +imaginable. She had various figures burnt on her chin, with +gunpowder; her complexion was a deep brown, and round her neck were +eight or ten necklaces, of coral and different coloured beads. So +interesting a person I had not seen in the country, and on my +remaining some moments with my eyes fixed on her, she recommenced the +salutation. How is your health? &c., and smiling, asked with great +naivete, whether I had not learned, during the last two months, a +little more Arabic? I assured her that I had. Looking round to see if +any body heard her, and having brought the hood over her face, she +said, 'I first heard of your coming last night, and desired the slave +to mention it to my brother. I have always looked for your coming, +and at night, _because at night I have sometimes seen you._ You were +the first man whose hand I ever touched, but they all said it did not +signify with you, an Insara (a Christian.) God turn your heart! But +my brother says you will never become Moslem--won't you, to please +Abdi Zeleel's sister? my mother says, God would never have allowed +you to come, but for your conversion.' By this time again the hood +had fallen back, and I had again taken her hand, when the unexpected +appearance of Abdi Zeleel, accompanied by the governor of the town, +who came to visit me, was a most unwelcome interruption. Omhal Henna +quickly escaped; she had overstepped the line, and I saw her no +more." + +On Wednesday the 30th October, they made their entree into Mourzouk, +with all the parade and show that they could muster. By Boo Khaloom's +presents to the bashaw, but chiefly on account of his having +undertaken to conduct the travellers to Bornou, he had not only +gained the bashaw's favour, but had left Tripoli with strong proofs +of his master's consideration. The inhabitants came out to meet them, +and they entered the gates amidst the shouts of the people, preceded +by singing and dancing women. And the Arabs who formed their escort, +made such repeated charges, upon their jaded and tired animals, that +Major Denham expected some of them would "fall to rise no more." No +living creatures can be treated worse than an Arab's wife and his +horse, and if plurality could be transferred from the marriage bed to +the stable, both wives and horses would be much benefited by the +change. + +Major Denham could not quite resist a sensation of disappointment, +that no friends came out to meet him, but as the sun was insufferably +powerful, and as he had received a message by Boo Khaloom's brother, +from Dr. Oudney, that he was unwell, and that Lieutenant Clapperton +had the ague, he did not much expect to see them. He was, however, by +no means prepared to see either of them so much reduced as they were. +He found that both his companions and Hillman, had been confined to +their beds with _hemma,_ (fever and ague,) had been delirious, and +the doctor and Hillman only a little recovered. Clapperton was still +on his bed, which for fifteen days he had not quitted. Doctor Oudney +was suffering also from a severe complaint in his chest, arising from +a cold caught during his excursion to Ghraat, and nothing could be +more disheartening than their appearance. The opinion of every body, +Arabs, Tripolines, and Ritchie, and Lyon, their predecessors, were +all unanimous as to the insalubrity of the air. Every one belonging +to the present expedition had been seriously disordered, and amongst +the inhabitants themselves, any thing like a healthy-looking person +was a rarity. + +Notwithstanding Boo Khaloom made every exertion in his power to get +away from Mourzouk, as early as possible, yet, from the numerous +arrangements, which it was necessary for him to make, for the +provisioning of so many persons, during a journey through a country +possessing no resources, it was the 29th November before those +arrangements were complete. Dr. Oudney and Mr. Clapperton, from a +most praiseworthy impatience to proceed on their journey, and at the +same time thinking their health might be benefited by the change of +air, preceded him to Gatrone by ten days. Major Denham remained +behind to urge Boo Khaloom, and expedite his departure, as it was +considered, by those means, that any wish might be obviated, which he +might have to delay, on account of his private affairs, even for a +day. Their caution was, however, needless, no man could be more +anxious to obey the orders he had received, and forward their views +than himself; indeed so peremptory had been the commands of the +bashaw, in consequence of the representation of our consul general, +when complaining of former procrastinations, that Boo Khaloom's +personal safety depended on his expedition, and of this he was well +aware. + +The following is a correct account of the strength of the party, as +it proceeded from Mourzouk. Major Denham had succeeded in engaging, +on his return to Tripoli, as an attendant to accompany him to Bornou, +a native of the island of St. Vincent, whose real name was Adolphus +Sympkins, but who, in consequence of his having run away from home, +and as a merchant traversed hall the world over, had acquired the +name of Columbus. He had been several years in the service of the +bashaw, spoke three European languages, and perfect Arabic. [*] They +had besides, three free negroes, who had been hired in Tripoli as +private servants. Jacob, a Gibraltar Jew, who was a sort of +store-keeper, four men to look after the camels, and these, with Mr. +Hillman and the remainder of the Europeans, made up the number of +their household to thirteen persons. They were also accompanied by +several merchants from Mesurata, Tripoli, Sockna, and Mourzouk, who +gladly embraced the protection of their escort, to proceed to the +interior with their merchandize. + +[Footnote: This person afterwards accompanied Captain Clapperton on +his second journey.] + +The Arabs in the service of the bashaw of Tripoli, by whom they were +to be escorted to Bornou, and on whose good conduct their success +almost wholly depended, were now nearly all assembled, and had been +chosen from amongst the most convenient tribes. They gained +considerably in the good opinion of the travellers, each day as they +became better acquainted with them; they were not only a great and +most necessary protection to them, breaking the ground, as they were, +for any Europeans who might follow their steps, but enlivened them +greatly on their dreary desert way, by their infinite wit and +sagacity, as well as by their poetry, extempore and traditional. +There were several amongst the party, who shone as orators in verse, +to use the idiom of their own expressive language, particularly one +of the tribe of Boo Saiff Marabooteens, or gifted persons, who would +sing for an hour together, faithfully describing the whole of their +journey for the preceding fortnight, relating the most trifling +occurrence that had happened, even to the name of the well, and the +colour and taste of the water, with astonishing rapidity and humour, +and in very tolerable poetry, while some of his traditional ballads +were beautiful. + +The Arabs are generally thin, meagre figures, though possessing +expressive and sometimes handsome features; great violence of gesture +and muscular action; irritable and fiery, they are unlike the +dwellers in towns and cities; noisy and loud, their common +conversational intercourse appears to be a continual strife and +quarrel. They are, however, brave, eloquent, and deeply sensible of +shame. Major Denham once knew an Arab of the lower class refuse his +food for days together, because in a skirmish his gun had missed +fire; to use his own words, _"Gulbi wahr,_ (my heart aches,) +_Bin-dikti kadip hashimtui gedam el naz._ (my gun lied, and shamed me +before the people.)" Much has been said of their want of cleanliness; +they may, however, be pronounced to be much more cleanly than the +lower orders of people in any European country. Circumcision, and the +shaving the hair from the head, and every other part of the body; the +frequent ablutions, which their religion compels them to perform; all +tend to enforce practices of cleanliness. Vermin, from the climate of +their country, they, as well as every other person, must be annoyed +with; and although the lower ranks have not the means of frequently +changing their covering, for it can be scarcely called apparel, yet +they endeavour to free themselves as much as possible from the +persecuting vermin. Their mode of dress has undergone no change for +centuries back, and the words of Fenelon will at this day apply with +equal truth to their present appearance. "Leurs habits sont aisés a +faire, car en ce doux climat on ne porte qu'une piece d'étoffe fine +et légère, qui n'est point taillée et que chacun met à long plis +autour de son corps pour la modestie; lui donnant la forme qu'il +veut." + + + +CHAPTER XX. + +During the time that Major Denham had been occupied with transacting +his business with the bashaw of Tripoli, Dr. Oudney and Lieutenant +Clapperton had determined to make an excursion to the westward of +Mourzouk, for the purpose of ascertaining the course of the rivers, +and the local curiosities of the country. Accordingly on the 8th June +1822, Dr. Oudney, Lieutenant Clapperton, and Mr. Hillman, departed +from Mourzouk, accompanied by Hadje Ali, brother of Ben Bucher, Ben +Khalloom, Mahommed Neapolitan Mamelouk, and Mahomet, son of their +neighbour Hadje Mahmud. It was their intention to have proceeded +direct to Ghraat, and laboured hard to accomplish their object; +obstacle after obstacle was, however, thrown in their way by some +individuals in Mourzouk. Several came begging them not to go, as the +road was dangerous, and the people not all under the bashaw's +control. They at length hired camels from a Targee, Hadge Said, but +only to accompany them as far as the wadey Ghrurby. + +This course was over sands skirted with date trees, the ground +strewed with fragments of calcareous crust, with a vitreous surface +from exposure to the weather. About mid-day, after an exhausting +journey from oppressive heat, they arrived at El Hummum, a straggling +village, the houses of which were mostly constructed of palm leaves. +They remained until the sun was well down and then proceeded on their +course. The country had the same character. At eight they arrived at +Tessouwa. + +The greater number of inhabitants were Turiacks. They had a warlike +appearance, a physiognomy and costume different from the Fezzaners. +More than a dozen muffled-up faces were seated near their tents, with +every one's spear stuck forcibly in the ground before him. This +struck them forcibly, from being very different from that which they +had been accustomed to see. The Arab is always armed in his journey, +with his long gun and pistols, but there is something more imposing +in the spear, dagger, and broad straight sword. + +Their course now lay over an extensive high plain, with a long range +of hills, running nearly east and west. They entered them by a pass, +in which were numerous recesses, evidently leading to more extensive +wadeys. This pass led to another, the finest they had yet seen, and +the only part approaching to the sublime, which they had beheld in +Fezzan. It was rugged and narrow; its sides high, and overhanging in +some places near the end of the pass, the wady Ghrarby opens, with +groves of date palms, and high sandy hills. The change was sudden and +striking, and instead of taking away, added to the effect of the pass +they were descending. + +Having travelled up the valley for about four miles, they halted at a +small town, called Kharaik, having passed two in their course. The +number of date trees in the eastern and western division of the +valley, is said to be 340,000. The first division, or wadey Shirgi, +extends from near Siba to within a few miles of Thirtiba, the other +from the termination of Shirgi to Aubari. + +In the evening, they saw some of the preparatory steps for a +marriage. The woman belonged to Kharaik, and the man to the next +town. A band of musicians, accompanied by all the women of the +village, with every now and then a volley of musketry, formed the +chief part of the procession. One woman carried a basket on her head, +for the purpose of collecting gomah to form a feast, and pay the +musicians. They came from the village of the bridegroom, which was +about a mile distant. + +The sheik of this town, whose name was Ali, was a good-natured +Tibboo, exceedingly poor, but very attentive, and always in good +humour. The place was so poor that they had sometimes to wait half a +day before they could get a couple of fowls, or a feed of dates or +barley for their horses. They were in hourly expectation of the +arrival of camels from the friends of Hateeta, for the purpose of +conveying them to Ghraat; no camels, however, arrived, and they were +obliged to remain, much against their inclination. On Hateeta +conversing with Dr. Oudney, on the difficulty they experienced in +getting away from Mourzouk, on account of the obstacles thrown in the +way by the people, he said, that the dread, which they had of the +Turiacks, was unfounded, and that they should soon be convinced of +it. He further added, that he could by his influence alone conduct +them in perfect safety to Timbuctoo, and would answer with his head. +He was indignant at the feelings, which the people of Mourzouk had +against the Turiacks, who, he said, pride themselves on having but +one word, and performing whatever they promise. + +The promised camels not having arrived, they hired two of Mahomet el +Buin, and with these they proceeded on to Gorma, which they found to +be a larger town than any in the wadey, but both walls and houses +have the marks of time. The sheik, Mustapha Ben Ussuf, soon visited +them. He was an old man, a Fezzaner. His ancestors were natives of +the place, and his features might be considered as characteristic of +the natives of Fezzan. + +They had many accounts of inscriptions being in this place, which the +people could not read. They were conducted by sheik Mustapha to +examine a building, different, as he stated, from any in the country. +When they arrived, they found to their satisfaction, it was a +structure which had been erected by the Romans. + +There were no inscriptions to be found, although they carefully +turned up a number of the stones strewed about, but a few figures and +letters rudely hewn out, and evidently of recent date. They imagined +they could trace some resemblance to the letters of Europe, and +conjectured that they had been hewn out by some European traveller at +no very distant period. Their thoughts naturally went back to +Horneman, but again they had no intelligence of his having been +there, "In short," as Dr. Oudney says, "to confess the truth, we did +not know what to make of them, till we afterwards made the discovery +of the Targee writing." + +This building is about twelve feet high, and eight broad. It is built +of sandstone well finished, and dug from the neighbouring hills. Its +interior is solid, and of small stones, cemented by mortar. It stands +about three miles from Gorma, and a quarter of a mile from the foot +of the mountain. It is either a tomb or an altar; those well +acquainted with Roman architecture will easily determine which. The +finding a structure of these people proves, without doubt, their +intercourse here. It is probable they had no extensive establishment, +otherwise they would have seen more remains as they went along; they +passed by, and saw to the westward, the remains of ancient Gorma. It +appeared to occupy a space more extensive than the present town. They +were not able to learn from the old sheik, whether any antique coins +were ever found, or any building similar to this in the vicinity. Was +this the tract of the Romans merely into the interior, or did they +come to the valley for dates? + +Hateeta arrived during the night of the 18th June; their departure +was, however, delayed on account of his illness. On the following +morning, they struck their tents by daylight, and commenced their +journey. They sent their horses home, that is, to Mourzouk, by their +servant, Adam, and set out on foot. They intended mounting the +camels, but the loads were so ill arranged that they dared not +venture. Their course lay through groves of date trees, growing in +the salt plains. These extended about four miles, and two miles +further west, was a small Arab town. They halted about an hour under +the shade of the date trees, waiting for the coming up of the camels. +They then mounted, and in the afternoon entered the date groves of +Oubari, where they halted. Hateeta joined them in the evening. They +had numerous Tuarick visitors, some residents of the town, and others +belonging to a kafila about to depart for the Tuarick country. They +are an independent-looking race. They examine with care every thing +they see, and are not scrupulous in asking for different articles, +such as tobacco, powder, and flints. + +The camel men not coming forward with their camels, the party took +the advantage of their detention to visit the neighbouring hills. One +part appeared at a distance as an artificial excavation, which, +however, disappeared as they approached, and they found it to be a +smooth surface, with a portion so removed as to give rise to the +delusion. + +In ascending this by the track of a mountain torrent, they fell in +with numerous inscriptions, in characters similar to those on the +Roman building. Some were evidently done centuries ago, others very +recently. To the southward there was another portion of the same +range. When they got to the top, they were perspiring copiously, and +had to take care that the perspiration was not checked too suddenly, +as a strong cool breeze was blowing on the top. Many places were +cleared away for prayer, in the same manner as they had observed in +places on all the roads, on which they had travelled. The form in +general is an oblong square, with a small recess in one of the longer +sides, looking to the rising sun, or it is semicircular, with a +similar recess. On the top of a steep precipice, "God save the king" +was sung with great energy and taste by Hillman. + +The new moon was seen on this evening, to the great joy of all the +followers of Mahomet. Muskets and pistols were discharged, and all +the musicians began their labours. This sport was continued until +night. A party of musicians came out to visit them, but several of +them were so drunk that they could scarcely walk. The fast was kept +by all with a bad grace, and scarcely one was to be seen who had not +a long visage. It was even laughable to see some young men going +about the streets, with long walking-sticks, leaning forward like men +bent with age. As soon as the maraboot calls, not a person was to be +seen in the streets; all commence, as soon as he pronounces "Allah +Akber!" All pretend to keep it, and if they do not, they take care +that no one shall know it; but from the wry faces and pharasaical +shows, the rigidity may be called in question. None of the European +party kept the fast, except for a day now and then; for all +travellers, after the first day, are allowed exemption, but they have +to make it up at some other time. + +They were greatly amused with stories of the great powers of eating +of the Tuaricks. They were told that two men have consumed three +sheep at one meal, another eating a kail of bruised dates, and a +corresponding quantity of milk, and another eating about a hundred +loaves, about the size of an English penny loaf. They had many +inquiries respecting the English females; for a notion prevailed, +that they always bore more than one child at a time, and that they +went longer than nine calendar months. On being told that they were +the same in that respect as other women, they appeared pleased. +They were also asked, how the women were kept; if they were locked up +as the moorish women, or allowed to go freely abroad. The Tuarick +women are allowed great liberties that way, and are not a little +pleased at having such an advantage. The customs and manners of +Europe, which they related to their friends, were so similar to some +of theirs, that an old Targee exclaimed, in a forcible manner, "that +he was sure they had the same origin as us." The Tuarick women have +full round faces, black curling hair, and, from a negro mixture, +inclined to be crispy; eyebrows a little arched, eyes black and +large, nose plain and well formed. The dress a barracan, neatly +wrapped round, with a cover of dark blue cloth for the head, +sometimes coming over the lower part of the face, as in the men. +They are not very fond of beads, but often have shells suspended to +the ears as ear-drops. + +Being obliged to postpone their departure for ten days, in +consequence of the indisposition of Hateeta, Dr. Oudney determined in +the mean time to visit Wady Shiati, whilst Mr. Hillman was sent back +to Mourzouk, to send down supplies, and to take charge of the +property. They arranged about the fare for their camels, and made +every preparation for their immediate departure. Before, however, +they could set out, a guide for the sands was necessary; and for that +purpose they engaged an old Targee, who professed to know every part +of the track. They travelled by moonlight, over a sandy soil, with +numerous tufts of grass, and mound hillocks covered with shrubs, the +surface in many places hard and crusty, from saline incrustations. +The old men told them, that the mounds of earth were formed by water, +as the wadey, at the times of great rains, was covered with water. + +At daylight they resumed their journey, and a little after sunrise +entered among the sand-hills, which were here two or three hundred +feet high. The ascent and descent of these proved very fatiguing to +both their camels and themselves. The precipitous sides obliged them +often to make a circuitous route, and rendered it necessary to form +with their hands a track, by which the camels might ascend. Beyond +this boundary there was an extensive sandy plain, with here and there +tufts of grass. + +In the afternoon, their track was on the same plain; and near sunset +they began ascending high sand-hills, one appearing as if heaped upon +the other. The guide ran before, to endeavour to find out the easiest +track, with all the agility of a boy. The presence of nothing but +deep sandy valleys and high sand-hills strikes the mind most +forcibly. There is something of the sublime mixed with the +melancholy; who can contemplate without admiration masses of loose +sand, fully four hundred feet high, ready to be tossed about by every +breeze, and not shudder with horror at the idea of the unfortunate +traveller being entombed in a moment by one of those fatal blasts, +which sometimes occur. They halted for the night on the top of one of +these sand-hills. + +For three or four days their course still lay among the sand-hills; +their guide, whom they now styled Mahomet Ben Kami, or son of the +sand, was almost always on before, endeavouring to find out the best +way. They could detect in the sand numerous footmarks of the jackal +and the fox, and here and there a solitary antelope. In some of the +wadeys there were a great many fragments of the ostrich egg. About +mid-day, they halted in a valley, and remained under the shade of +some date trees for a few hours. The heat was oppressive, and their +travelling was difficult They next came to an extensive level plain, +which was some refreshment, for they were completely tired of +ascending and descending sand-hills. The servants strayed, proceeding +on a track, which was pointed out to them as the right one, and, +before they were aware of their error, they went so far that they +were not able to send after them. They, as well as themselves, +thought the town was near, and they went forwards, with the intention +of getting in before the remainder of the party could come up. They +felt exceedingly uneasy respecting them, as they might so easily lose +themselves in such intricate travelling. They halted in low spirits, +and, after a little refreshment, went to sleep with heavy hearts. + +During the night, some strong breezes sprang up, by which their +trunks and bed-clothes were all covered with sand in the morning. +They heard nothing of their servants, and consoled themselves that +they had perhaps found some place of shelter or rest. They commenced +their journey early, and in a short time the hills of Wadey Shiati +were seen stretching east and west, and the date-palms in several +groves; but some high sand-hills were seen between them. They wished +their old guide to take them a more direct course, but +notwithstanding their desire, and even threats, he persevered in +having his way; and, to do the old man justice, they afterwards found +it would almost have been impossible for the camels to have gone the +way they wished. After passing the base of some high sand-hills, they +came to a strong pass, of gentle descent, covered with loose +fragments of quartz rock, a yellowish feldspar, and iron ore, very +similar to the rocks in the Sebah district. From this place the town +opened to their view, erected on a hill about three hundred feet +high, standing in the middle of the valley, and has the appearance, +at a distance, of a hill studded over with basaltic columns. They had +no idea that the town was built on the hill, and consequently that +the deception was produced by it. + +The majority of the inhabitants soon visited them, and all appeared +pleased at their arrival. The kadi of the two neighbouring towns paid +them many compliments, and pressed them much to spend a few days in +his towns. They could not take advantage of this offer, which was no +doubt of a selfish nature, for Dr. Oudney had not conversed long with +him, before he began to beg a shirt. The doctor told him that his +could be of no use to him, as it was very different from those of the +country. On being told that, he asked for a dollar to buy one, which +Dr. Oudney took care to refuse, saying that he only gave presents of +money to the poor. The people made numerous urgent demands for +medicines, and in a very short time, their large tent was surrounded +with sick, the female part forming the majority. Some beautiful faces +and forms were clothed in rags; the plaited hair and necks of these +even were loaded with ornaments. The females were rather under the +middle stature, strongly built, and possess considerable vivacity, +and liveliness. The complexion of those not much exposed to the sun +was of a dirty white. + +Dr. Oudney was also applied to in a new capacity, that of a +charm-writer. A man came and offered him two fowls, if he would give +him a charm for a disease of the stomach; he was, however, obliged to +decline the office of charm-writer, and confine himself to the cure +of diseases by medicine. A buxom widow applied for a medicine to +obtain her a husband, but the doctor told her he had no such medicine +along with him. The same worthy personage took Lieutenant Clapperton +for an old man, on account of his light-coloured beard and +mustachios; but although this afforded some amusement to the party, +Clapperton felt some chagrin at it, for he had prided himself on the +strength and bushiness of his beard, and was not a little hurt that +light colour should be taken as a mark of old age. None of them had +ever seen a light-coloured beard before, and all the old men dye +their grey beards with henna, which gives them a colour approaching +to that of Lieutenant Clapperton. + +They now proceeded to visit the interior of the town. The houses were +built of mud, and erected on the sides of the hill, appearing as if +one were pulled on the other. The passages or streets between them +are narrow, and in two or three instances, some excavations were made +through the rocks. The ascent was steep in some places, and they had +to pass through the mosque before they arrived at the highest +portion. From this they had a line view of Wadey Shiati in every +direction, running nearly east and west; in the former direction it +was well inhabited as far as Oml' Abeed, which is the westernmost +town. Many houses were in ruins, and many more were approaching to +that state, still it was called the new town, although its appearance +little entitles it to that appellation; but the ancient inhabitants +lived in excavations in the rocks, the remains of which are very +distinct. At the bottom of the hill, they entered several, not much +decayed by time. At a hundred yards, however, from the base of the +hill, and now used as a burying-ground, there is a subterranean +house, of large dimensions, and probably the residence of the great +personage. Dr. Oudney and Clapperton entered this excavation, and +found three extensive galleries, which communicated only by small +openings, on passing through which, they had to stoop considerably. +The galleries were, however, high, and of considerable length, about +one hundred and fifty feet, and each had several small recesses, like +sleeping rooms. The whole had neatness about it, and showed a taste +in the excavation. There are no traces of similar abodes in Fezzan. +The people are so afraid, and so superstitious, that scarcely one of +the town had ever entered it. They were astonished when the Europeans +entered it without ceremony, and two, encouraged by their example, +brought them a light, by which they were enabled to look into the +different recesses. + +On the 6th July, they started, with a beautiful moonlight, over a +sandy plain, with a great many small hillocks. They stopped at +Dalhoon, a well nearly filled up with sand, and containing water so +brackish that they were unable to drink it. They started again, and +got in amongst the sand-hills. Their new guide proved neither such an +active man, nor so experienced a pilot, as their old Tuarick, as they +had several times to retrace their steps. + +After visiting several places of no particular note, they arrived at +Ghraat, and were soon visited by a number of Hateeta's relations, one +of whom was his sister; some were much affected, and wept at the +sufferings that had detained him so long from them. A number of his +male relations soon came, and many of the inhabitants of the town. +The ladies were a free and lively set. They were not a little pleased +with the grave manner in which their visitors uttered the various +complimentary expressions. Hateeta was not well pleased with +something he had heard, but he told them not to be afraid, as he had +numerous relations. They informed him that fear never entered their +breasts, and begged him not to be uneasy on their account. + +Early on the following morning, numerous visitors paid their respects +to Hateeta, and were introduced in due form to the Europeans, who +felt the length of time spent in salutations quite fatiguing, and so +absurd in their eyes, that they could scarcely at times retain their +gravity. The visitors were mostly residents of the city, and all were +decorated in their best. There were also a sedateness and gravity in +the appearance of all, which the dress tended greatly to augment. + +In the afternoon, they visited the sultan. Mats had been spread in +the castle in a small anti-chamber. The old man was seated, but rose +up to receive them, and welcomed them to his city. He apologized for +not waiting on them, but said he was sick, and had been very little +out for some time. He had guinea-worm, and cataract was forming in +his eyes. He was dressed in a nearly worn-out robe, and trousers of +the same colour, and round his head was wrapped an old piece of +yellow coarse cloth for a turban. Notwithstanding the meanness of the +dress, there was something pleasing and prepossessing in his +countenance, and such as made them quite as much at home, as if in +their tents. They presented him with a sword, with which he was +highly pleased. Hateeta wished it had been a Bornouse; but they had +none with them which they considered sufficiently good. They were led +away by the title sultan, having no idea that the Tuaricks were so +vain; for they used to fill them with high notions of the wealth and +greatness of the people of Ghraat. + +On the whole, their interview was highly pleasing, and every one +seemed much pleased with their visitors. The old sultan showed them +every kindness, and they had every reason to believe him sincere in +his wishes. After their visit, they called at the house of Lameens, +son of the kadi. He was a young man of excellent character, and +universally respected. His father was then in Ghadames, arranging, +with some of the other principal inhabitants, the affairs of the +community. He had left directions with his son, to show the strangers +every attention. His house was neatly fitted up, and carpets spread +on a high bed, on which the visitors seated themselves. Several of +the people who were in the castle came along with them, and by the +assistance of those, who could speak Arabic, they were able to keep +up a tolerably good conversation. On inquiring about the Tuarick +letters, they found the same sounds given them as they had before +heard from others. They were here at the fountain-head, but were +disappointed at not being able to find a book in the Tuarick +language; they were informed, that there was not one extant. + +In the evening Hateeta's kinswomen returned. They were greatly +amused, and laughed heartily at their visitors blundering out a few +Tuarick words. It may be well supposed they were very unfit +companions for the ladies, as they spoke no other language than their +own, and the strangers knew very little of it. Still, however, they +got on very well, and were mutually pleased. Dr. Oudney could +scarcely refrain laughing several times, at the grave manner which +Clapperton assumed. He had been tutored by Hateeta, and fully acted +up to his instructions; no Tuarick could have done it better. Their +friend Hateeta was anxious that they should shine, if not make an +impression on the hearts of the ladies, and therefore read a number +of lectures to Clapperton, as to the manner in which he should deport +himself. He was directed not to laugh nor sing, but to look as grave +as possible, which Hateeta said would be sure to please the grave +Tuaricks. The liveliness of the women, their freeness with the men, +and the marked attention the latter paid them, formed a striking +contrast with other Mahommedan states. + +They now proceeded to take a circuit of the town, and during their +walk they fell in with a number of females, who had come out to see +them. All were free and lively, and riot at all deferred by the +presence of the men. Several of them had fine features, but only one +or two could be called beautiful. Many of the natives came out of +their houses as they passed along, and cordially welcomed them to +their town. It was done with so much sincerity and good heartedness, +that they could not but be pleased and highly flattered. + +In the evening they heard a numerous band of females, singing at a +distance, which was continued till near midnight. The women were +principally those of the country. This custom is very common among +the people, and is one of the principal amusements in the mountain +recesses. Hateeta said they go out when their work is finished, in +the evening, and remain till near midnight, singing and telling +stories; return home, take supper, and go to bed. + + + +CHAPTER XXI. + +Dr. Oudney and his companions now determined to return to Mourzouk, +where they arrived in November, and on the 29th of the same month, +they again departed, accompanied by nearly all those of the town, who +could muster horses; the camels had moved early in the day, and at +Zerzow, they found the tents pitched. From Zerzow to Traghan there is +a good high road, with frequent incrustations of salt. A marabout of +great sanctity, is the principal person in Traghan, as his father was +before him. After being crammed as it were by the hospitality of this +marabout, they left Traghan for Maefen, an assemblage of date huts, +with but one house. The road to this place lies over a mixture of +sand and salt, having a curious and uncommon appearance. The path, by +which all the animals move for some miles, is a narrow space, or +strip, worn smooth, bearing a resemblance both in appearance and +hardness to ice. + +Quitting Maefen, they quickly entered on a desert plain, and after a +dreary fourteen hours march for camels, they arrived at Mestoota, a +maten or resting place, where the camels found some little grazing, +from a plant called ahgul. Starting at sunrise, they had another +fatiguing day, over the same kind of desert, without seeing one +living thing that did not belong to the kafila, not a bird, nor even +an insect; the sand is beautifully fine, round, and red. It is +difficult to give the most distant idea of the stillness and beauty +of a night scene, on a desert of this description. The distance +between the resting places is not sufficiently great, for the dread +of want of water to be alarmingly felt, and the track, though a sandy +one, is well known to the guides. The burning heat of the day is +succeeded by cool and refreshing breezes, and the sky ever illumined +by large and brilliant stars, or an unclouded moon. By removing the +loose and pearl-like sand, to the depth of a few inches, the effects +of the sunbeams of the day are not perceptible, and a most soft and +refreshing couch is easily formed. The ripple of the driving sand +resembles that of a slow and murmuring stream, and after escaping +from the myriads of fleas, which day and night persecute you, in the +date-bound valley in which Mourzouk stands, the luxury of an evening +of this description is an indescribable relief. Added to the solemn +stillness, so peculiarly striking and impressive, there is an +extraordinary echo in all deserts, arising probably from the +closeness and solidity of a sandy soil, which does not absorb the +sound. They now arrived at Gabrone. The Arabs watch for a sight of +the high date trees, which surround this town, as sailors look for +land, and after discovering these land marks, they shape their course +accordingly. + +Here Major Denham joined his companions, whom he found in a state of +health but ill calculated for undertaking a long and tedious journey. +During the stay of the major at Mourzouk, he had suffered from a +severe attack of fever, which had kept him for ten days in his bed, +and although considerably debilitated, yet he was strong in +comparison with his associates. Dr. Oudney was suffering much from +his cough, and still complaining of his chest. Mr. Clapperton's ague +had not left him, and Hillman had been twice attacked so violently, +as to be given over by the doctor. They all, however, looked forward +anxiously to proceeding on their journey, and fancied that change of +scene and warmer weather, would bring them all round. + +Gabrone is not unpleasantly situated; it is surrounded by sandhills +and mounds of earth, covered with a small tree, called _athali._ The +person of the greatest importance at Gabrone, is one Hagi el Raschid, +a large proprietor, and a marabout. He was a man of very clear +understanding and amiable manners, and as he uses the superstition of +the people as the means of making them happy, and turning them from +vicious pursuits, we become, as it were, almost reconciled to an +impostor. + +They departed from Gabrone at 11 o'clock, a.m. The marabout +accompanied Boo Khaloom outside the town, and having drawn, not a +magic circle, but a parallelogram on the sand, with his wand, he +wrote in it certain words of great import, from the Koran; the crowd +looked on him in silent astonishment, while he assumed a manner both +graceful and imposing, so as to make it impossible for any one to +feel at all inclined to ridicule his motions. When he had finished +repeating the fatah aloud, he invited the party singly to ride +through the spot he had consecrated, and having obeyed him, they +silently proceeded on their journey, without repeating even an idea. + +They passed a small nest of huts in the road, prettily situated, +called El Bahhi, from whence the women of the place followed them +with songs for several miles. Having halted at Medroosa, they moved +on the next morning, and leaving an Arab castle to the south-east, +and some table-top hills, they arrived at Kasrowa by three in the +afternoon. + +On the 9th December, they were to arrive at Tegerhy. The Arabs +commenced skirmishing as soon as they came within sight of it, and +kept it up in front of the town for half an hour after their arrival. +They were to halt here for a day or two, for the purpose of taking in +the remainder of their dates and provisions, and never was halt more +acceptable. Almost the whole of the party were afflicted with +illness; the servants were all so ill, that one of the negro women +made them a mess of kouscasou, with some preserved fat, which had +been prepared in Mourzouk, it was a sorry meal, for the fat was +rancid, and although tired and not very strong, Major Denham could +not refuse an invitation about nine at night, after he had laid down +to sleep, to eat camels' heart with Boo Khaloom; it was woefully hard +and tough, and the major suffered the next morning from indulging too +much at the feast. + +The Tibboos and Arabs kept them awake half the night with their +singing and dancing, in consequence of the bousafer or feast, on +entering the Tibboo country. Boo Khaloom gave two camels, and the +major and his party gave one. The sick seemed to gain a little +strength; they had succeeded in purchasing a sheep, and a little soup +seemed to revive them much, but they feared that Hillman and one of +the servants must be left behind. However distressing such an event +would have been, it was impossible for men, who could not sit upright +on a mule, to commence a journey of fifteen days over a desert, +during which travellers are obliged to march from sunrise until dark. + +The morning of the 12th December was beautifully mild. After +breakfast, all seemed revived, but it was with great pain that Major +Denham observed the exceeding weakness of Dr. Oudney and Hillman; he +fancied that he already saw in them, two more victims to the noxious +climate of central Africa. + +Almost every town in Africa has its charm or wonder, and Tegerhy is +not without one. There is a well just outside the castle gates, the +water of which, they were told most gravely, always rose when a +kafila was coming near the town; that the inhabitants always prepared +what they had to sell, on seeing this water increase in bulk, for it +never deceived them. In proof of this assertion, they pointed out to +Major Denham, how much higher the water had been previously to their +arrival, than it was at the moment, when they were standing on the +brink. This Major Denham could have explained, by the number of +camels that had drunk at it, but he saw it was better policy to +believe what every body allowed to be true, even Boo Khaloom +exclaimed, "Allah! God is great, powerful, and wise. How wonderful! +Oh!" Over the inner gate of the castle, there is a large hole through +to the gateway underneath, and they tell a story, of a woman dropping +from thence a stone on the head of some leader, who had gained the +outer wall, giving him by that means the death of Abimelech in sacred +history. + +The natives of Tegerhy are quite black, but have not the negro face; +the men are slim, very plain, with high cheek bones, the negro nose, +large mouth, teeth much stained by the quantity of tobacco, and +_trona_ or carbonate of soda, which they eat, and even snuff, when +given to them, goes directly into their mouths. + +The young girls are most of them pretty, but less so than those of +Gabrone. The men always carry two daggers, one about eighteen inches, +and the other six inches; the latter of which is attached to a ring, +and worn on the arm or wrist. A Tibboo once told Major Denham, +pointing to the long one, "This is my gun, and this" showing the +smaller of the two, "is my pistol." + +On the 13th they left Tegerhy and proceeded on the desert. After +travelling six miles they arrived at a well called Omah, where their +tents were pitched, and here they halted three days. Near these +wells, numbers of human skeletons, or parts of them, lay scattered on +the sands. Hillman, who had suffered dreadfully since leaving +Tegerhy, was greatly shocked at these whitened skulls, and unhallowed +remains, so much so as to stand in need of all the encouragement +which Major Denham could administer to him. + +On the 17th they continued their course over a stony plain, without +the least appearance of vegetation. About sunset, they halted near a +well, within half a mile of Meshroo. Round this spot were lying more +than a hundred skeletons, some of them with the skin still remaining +attached to the bones, not even a little sand thrown over them. The +Arabs laughed heartily at the expression which Major Denham evinced, +and said, "they were only blacks, _nam boo!_ (d--n their fathers,)" +and began knocking about the limbs with the butt end of their +firelocks, saying, "this was a woman: this was a youngster," and such +like unfeeling expressions. The greater part of the unhappy people, +of whom these were the remains, had formed the spoils of the sultan +of Fezzan the year before. Major Denham was assured, that they had +left Bornou, with not above a quarter's allowance for each; and that +more died from want than fatigue; they were marched off with chains +round their necks and legs; the most robust only arrived in Fezzan in +a very debilitated state, and were there fattened for the Tripoli +slave market. + +Their camels did not come up until it was quite dark, and they +bivouacked in the midst of these unearthed remains of the victims of +persecution and avarice, after a long day's journey of twenty-six +miles, in the course of which, one of the party counted one hundred +and seven of these skeletons. + +Their road now lay over a long plain with a slight ridge. A fine naga +(she camel), lay down on the road, as it was supposed from fatigue. +The Arabs crowded round and commenced unloading her, when, upon +inquiry, it was found that she was suddenly taken in labour; about +five minutes completed the operation; a very fine little animal was +literally dragged into light. It was then thrown across another +camel, and the mother, after being reloaded, followed quietly after +her offspring. + +One of the skeletons which they passed this day, had a very fresh +appearance, the beard was still hanging to the skin of the face, and +the features were still discernible. A merchant, travelling with the +kafila, suddenly exclaimed, "That was my slave I left behind four +months ago, near this spot." "Make haste! take him to the _fsug_ +(market)," said an Arab wag, "for fear any body else should claim +him." + +On the 20th December, they arrived at the Hormut el Wahr, which were +the highest hills they had seen since leaving Fezzan; the highest +peak being from five to six hundred feet. They had a bold black +appearance, and were a relief to the eye, after the long level they +had quitted. They blundered and stumbled on until ten at night, when +they found the resting place, after a toilsome and most distressing +day. This was the eighth day since the camels had tasted water; they +were weak and sore-footed, from the stony nature of the passes in +these hills of Elwahr. + +They had now a stony plain, with low hills of sand and gravel, till +they reached El Garha, and here they rested for the night. Several of +the camels during this day were drunk--their eyes heavy, and wanting +their usual animation; their gait staggering, and every now and then +falling, as a man in a state of intoxication. This arose from eating +dates after drinking water; these probably pass into a spirituous +fermentation in the stomach. + +On the 22nd of December, they moved before daylight, and halted at +the maten called El Hammar, close under a bluff head, which had been +in view since quitting their encampment in the morning. Strict orders +were given this day for the camels to keep close up, and for the +Arabs not to straggle, the Tibboo Arabs having been seen on the look +out. During the last two days, they had passed, on an average, from +sixty to ninety skeletons each day, but the numbers that lay about +the wells at El Hammar were countless; those of two young women, +whose perfect and regular teeth bespoke them young, were particularly +shocking; their arms still remained clasped round each other as they +had expired, although the flesh had long since perished by being +exposed to the burning rays of the sun, and the blackened bones only +left; the nails of the fingers, and some of the sinews of the hand +also remained, and part of the tongue of one of them still appeared +through the teeth. + +They had now passed six days of desert, without the slightest +appearance of vegetation, and a little branch of the snag, _(Caparis +sodada,)_ was brought as a comfort and curiosity. On the following, +day, they had alternately plains of sand and loose gravel, and had a +distant view of some hills to the westward. While Major Denham was +dozing on his horse about noon, overcome by the heat of the sun, +which, at that time of the day, shone with great power, he was +suddenly awakened by a crashing under his feet, which startled him +excessively. He found that his steed had, without any sensation of +shame or alarm, stepped upon the perfect skeletons of two human +beings, cracking their brittle bones under his feet, and by one trip +of his foot, separating a skull from the trunk, which rolled on like +a ball before him. This event imparted a sensation to him, which it +took him a long time to remove. His horse was for many days +afterwards not looked upon with the same regard as formerly. + +One of their nagas had this day her accouchement on the road, and +they all looked forward to the milk, which the Arabs assured them she +had in abundance, and envied them not a little their morning +draughts, which they were already quaffing in imagination. However, +one of the many slips between the cup and the lip was to befall them. +The poor naga suddenly fell, and as suddenly died. The exclamations +of the Arabs were dreadful. "The evil eye! the evil eye!" they all +exclaimed; "she was sure to die, I knew it. Well! if she had been +mine, I would rather have lost a child, or three slaves. God be +praised! God is great, powerful, and wise; those looks of the people +are always fatal." + +On the 1st January 1823, they arrived at the wadey Ikbar. The Arabs +here caught a hyena, and brought it to Major Denham; he, nor any +other of the party, had any other wish than to have merely a look at +it. They then tied it, to a tree, and shot at it, until the poor +animal was literally knocked to pieces. This was the most refreshing +spot they had seen for many days; there were dome trees laden with +fruit, though not ripe, which lay in clusters, and grass in +abundance. They could have stayed here a week, says Major Denham, +with pleasure; so reviving is the least appearance of cultivation, or +rather a sprinkling of nature's beauty, after the parching wilds of +the long and dreary desert they had passed. + +Looking back with great regret at leaving the few green branches in +Ikbar, with nothing before them but the dark hills and sandy desert, +they ascended slightly from the wadey, and leaving the hills of +Ikbar, proceeded towards a prominent head in a low range to the east +of their course, called Tummer as Kumma, meaning "You'll soon drink +water;" and about two miles in advance, they halted just under a +ridge of the same hills, after making twenty-four miles. Four camels +were knocked up during this day's march: on such occasions, the Arabs +wait in savage impatience in the rear, with their knives in their +hands, ready, on the signal of the owner, to plunge them into the +poor animal, and bear off a portion of the flesh for their evening +meal. They were obliged to kill two of them on the spot; the other +two, it was hoped, would come up in the night. Major Denham attended +the slaughter of one, and despatch being the order of the day, a +knife is struck into the camel's heart, while his head is turned to +the east, and he dies almost in an instant; but before that instant +expires, a dozen knives are thrust into different parts of the +carcass, in order to carry off the choicest parts of the flesh. The +heart, considered as the greatest delicacy, is torn out, the skin +stripped from the breast and haunches, part of the meat cut, or +rather torn from the bones, and thrust into bags, which they carry +for the purpose, and the remainder of the carcass is left for the +crows, vultures, and hyenas, while the Arabs quickly follow the +kafila. + +On the 4th, they arrived at Anay, a town which consists of a few huts +built on the top of a mass of stone, round the base of which are also +habitations, but the riches of the people are always kept above. The +Tuaricks annually, and sometimes oftener, pay them a most destructive +visit, carrying off cattle and every thing they can lay their hands +upon. The people, on those occasions, take refuge at the top of the +rock, ascending by a rude ladder, which is drawn up after them; and +as the sides of their citadel are always precipitous, they defend +themselves with their missiles, and by rolling down stones on the +assailants. + +The sultan Tibboo, whose territory extends from this place to Bilma, +was at this time visiting a town to the south-west of Anay, called +Kisbee, and he requested Boo Khaloom to halt there one day, promising +to proceed with him to Bilma. They accordingly reached Kisbee on the +evening of the 5th, where the camels got some pickings of dry grass. + +Kisbee is a great place of rendezvous for all kafilas and merchants, +and it is here that the sultan always takes his tribute for +permission to pass through his country. The sultan himself had +neither much majesty nor cleanliness of appearance; he came to Boo +Khaloom's tent, accompanied by six or seven Tibboos, some of them +really hideous. They take a quantity of snuff, both in their mouths +and noses; their teeth were of a deep yellow; the nose resembles +nothing so much as a round lump of flesh stuck on the face, and the +nostrils are so large, that their fingers go up as far as they can +reach, in order to ensure the snuff an admission into the head. The +watch, compass, and musical snuff-box of one of the party created but +little astonishment; they looked at their own faces in the bright +covers, and were most stupidly inattentive to what would have excited +the wonder of almost any imagination, however savage. Here was "the +_os sublime,_" but the "_spiritus intus,_" the "_mens divinior,_" +were scarcely discoverable. Boo Khaloom gave the sultan a fine +scarlet bornouse, which seemed a little to animate his stupid +features. + +In the evening, they had a dance by Tibboo men, performed in front of +their tents. It is graceful and slow, but not so well adapted to the +male as the female. It was succeeded by one performed by some free +slaves from Soudan, who were living with the Tibboos, enjoying, as +they said, their liberty. It appeared to be most violent exertion; +one man is placed in the middle of a circle, which he endeavours to +break, and each one whom he approaches, throws him off, while he adds +to the impetus by a leap, and ascends several feet from the ground; +when one has completed the round, another lakes his place. + +Whilst they were on the road, a violent disturbance arose amongst +the Arabs, one of them having shot a ball through the shirt of +another of the Magarha tribe; the sheik of the Magarha took up the +quarrel, and the man saved himself from being punished, by hanging to +the stirrup-leather of Major Denham's saddle. The Arab sheik made use +of some expressions, in defending his man, which displeased Boo +Khaloom, who instantly knocked him off his horse, and his slaves +soundly bastinadoed him. + +Tiggema, near which they halted, is one of the highest points in the +range, and hangs over the mud houses of the town; this point stands +at the south extremity of the recess, which the hills here form, and +is about four hundred feet high; the sides are nearly perpendicular, +and it is detached from the other hills by a chasm. On the approach +of the Tuaricks, the whole population flock to the top of these +heights, with all their property, and make the best defence they can. +The interior of some of the houses is neat and tidy; the men are +generally travelling merchants, or rather pedlars, and probably do +not pass more than four months in the year with their families, for +the Tibboos rarely go beyond Bornou to the south, or Mourzouk to the +north; they appeared light-hearted, and happy as people constantly in +dread of such visitors as the Tuaricks can be, who spare neither age +nor sex. + +They proceeded from Tiggema nearly in a south-west direction, leaving +the hills; and while resting under the shade of acacia trees, which +were here very abundant, they had the agreeable, and to them very +novel sight, of a drove of oxen; the bare idea of once more being in +a country that afforded beef and pasture, was consoling in the +extreme; and the luxurious thought of fresh milk, wholesome food, and +plenty, were highly exhilarating to the whole of the party. + +In the afternoon, they came to a halt at Dirkee, A good deal of +powder was here expended in honour of the sultan, who again met them +on their approach: his new scarlet bornouse was thrown over a filthy +check shirt, and his turban and cap, though once white, were rapidly +approaching to the colour of the head which they covered; when, +however, on the following morning, his majesty condescended to ask +one of the party for a little soap, these little negligences in his +outward appearance were more easily accounted for. + +They had rather a numerous assembly of females, who danced for some +hours before the tents. Some of their movements were very elegant, +and not unlike the Greek dances, as they are represented. They were +regaled by the sultan with cheese and ground nuts from Soudan; the +former of a pleasant flavour, but so hard that they were obliged to +moisten it with water previously to eating. During the time that they +halted at Dirkee, the women brought them dates, fancifully strung on +rushes, in the shape of hearts, with much ingenuity, and a few pots +of honey and fat. + +They halted at Dirkee rather more than two days. So many of Boo +Khaloom's camels had fallen on the road, that, notwithstanding the +very peaceable professions which the travelling party held forth, a +marauding party was sent out to plunder some maherhies, and bring +them in; an excursion that was sanctioned by the sultan, who gave +them instructions as to the route they were to take. The former deeds +of the Arabs are, however, still in the memory of the Tibboos, and +they had therefore increased the distance between their huts and the +high road, by a timely striking of their tents. Nine camels, of the +maherhy species, were brought in, but not without a skirmish; and a +fresh party were despatched, which did not return that night. All the +party were ordered to remain loaded, and no one was allowed to quit +the circle in which the tents were pitched. + +On the following day, the Arabs, who had been out foraging, returned +with thirteen camels, which they had much difficulty in bringing to +the halting place, as the Tibboos had followed them several miles. +Patrols were placed during the whole of the night, who, to awaken the +sleepers for the purpose of assuring them they were awake themselves, +were constantly exclaiming, _Balek ho!_ the watchword of the Arabs. + +They had this day the enjoyment of a dish of venison, one of the +Arabs having succeeded in shooting two gazelles, many of which had +crossed their path for the last three days. On finding a young one, +only a few days old, the wily Arab instantly laid down on the grass, +imitating the cry of the young one, and as the mother came bounding +towards the spot, he shot her in the throat. + +On the 12th, they reached Bilma, the capital of the Tibboos, and the +residence of their sultan, who having always managed to get before +and receive them, advanced a mile from the town attended by some +fifty of his men-at-arms, and double the number of the sex, styled in +Europe, the fair. The men had most of them bows and arrows, and all +carried spears; they approached Boo Khaloom, shaking the spears in +the air over their heads, and after this salutation, the whole party +moved on towards the town, the females dancing, and throwing +themselves about with screams and songs quite original, at least to +the European portion of the party. They were of a superior class to +those of the minor towns; some having extremely pleasing features, +while the pearly whiteness of their regular teeth, was beautifully +contrasted with the glossy black of their skin, and the triangular +flaps of plaited hair, which hung down on each side of their faces, +streaming with oil, with the addition of the coral in the nose, and +large amber necklaces, gave them a very-seducing appearance. Some of +them carried a _sheish,_ a fan made of soft grass or hair, for the +purpose of keeping off the flies; others a branch of a tree, and +some, fans of ostrich feathers, or a branch of the date palm. All had +something in their hands, which they waved over their heads as they +advanced. One wrapper of Soudan, tied on the top of the left +shoulder, leaving the right breast bare, formed their covering, while +a smaller one was thrown over the head, which hung down to their +shoulders, or was thrown back at pleasure; notwithstanding the +apparent scantiness of their habiliments, nothing could be farther +from indelicate than was their appearance or deportment. + +On arriving at Bilma, they halted under the shade of a large tulloh +tree, whilst the tents were pitching, and the women danced with great +taste, and, as Major Denham was assured by the sultan's nephew, with +great skill also. As they approached each other, accompanied by the +slow beat of an instrument formed out of a calabash, covered with +goat's skin, for a long time their movements were confined to the +head, hands, and body, which they throw from one side to the other, +flourish in the air, and bend without moving their feet; suddenly, +however, the music becomes quicker and louder, when they start into +the most violent gestures, rolling their heads round, gnashing their +teeth, and shaking their hands at each other, leaping up, and on each +side, until one or both are so exhausted that they fall to the +ground, another pair then take their place. + +Major Denham now, for the first time, produced Captain Lyon's book, +in Boo Khaloom's tent, and on turning over the prints of the natives, +he swore, and exclaimed, and insisted upon it, that he knew every +face. This was such a one's slave--that was his own--he was +right,--he knew it. Praised be God for the talents he gave the +English: they were _shater; walla shater,_ (very clever.) Of a +landscape, however, it was found, that he had not the least idea, nor +could he be made at all to understand the intention of the print of +the sand-wind in the desert; he would look at it upside down, and +when it was twice reversed for him, he exclaimed, _why! why!_ (it is +all the same.) A camel, or a human figure, was all he could be made +to understand, and at these he was all agitation and delight. _Gieb! +gieb!_ (wonderful! wonderful!) The eyes first took his attention, +then the other features; at the sight of the sword, he cried out, +_Allah! allah!_ and on discovering the guns, instantly exclaimed, +"Where is the powder?" This want of perception as was imagined in so +intelligent a man, excited at first the surprise of Major Denham, but +perhaps, just the same would a European have felt, under similar +circumstances. Were a European to attain manhood without ever casting +his eye upon the representation of a landscape on paper, would he +immediately feel the particular beauties of it, the perspective and +the distant objects of it? It is from our opportunities of +contemplating works of art, even in the common walks of life, as well +as to cultivation of mind, and associations of the finer feelings, by +an intercourse with the enlightened and accomplished, that we derive +our quick perception in matters of this kind, rather than from +nature. + +On leaving Bilma their road lay over loose hills of sand, in which +the camels sunk nearly knee-deep. In passing these desert wilds, +where hills disappear in a single night by the drifting of the sand, +and where all traces of the passage of even a large kafila sometimes +vanish in a few hours, the Tibboos have certain points in the dark +sandstone ridges, which from time to time raise their heads in the +midst of this dry ocean of sand, and form the only variety, and by +them they steer their course. From one of these land-marks they waded +through sand formed into hills from twenty to sixty feet in height, +with nearly perpendicular sides, the camels blundering and falling +with their heavy loads. The greatest care is taken by the drivers in +descending these banks; the Arabs hang with all their weight on the +animal's tail, by which means they steady him in his descent. Without +this precaution the camel generally falls forward, and of course all +he carries goes over his head. + +In the evening they bivouacked under a head called Zow, (the +difficult,) where they found several wells. On the following day, the +sand-hills were less than on the preceding one. But the animals still +sank so deep that it was a tedious day, for all the four camels of +Boo Khaloom gave in; two were killed by the Arabs, and two were left +to the chance of coming up before the following morning. Tremendously +dreary are these marches, as far as the eye can reach, billows of +sand bound the prospect. On seeing the solitary foot passenger of the +kafila, with his water flask in his hand, and the bag of zumeeta on +his head, sink at a distance beneath the slope of one of these, as he +plods his way along, hoping to gain a few paces in his long day's +work, by not following the track of the camels, one trembles for his +safety; the obstacle passed which concealed him from the view, the +eye is strained towards the spot, in order to be assured that he has +not been hurried quickly in the treacherous overwhelming sand. + +An unfortunate merchant of Tripoli, Mahomet N' Diff, who had suffered +much on the road from an enlarged spleen, was here advised to undergo +the operation of burning with a red hot iron, the sovereign Arab +remedy for almost every disorder; he gave his consent, and previously +to their proceeding, he was laid on his back, and while five or six +Arabs held him on the sand, the rude operators burnt him on the left +side under the ribs in three places, nearly the size of a sixpence +each. The iron was again placed in the fire, and while heating, the +thumbs of about a dozen Arabs were thrust into different parts of the +poor man's side, to know if the pressure pained him, until his flesh +was so bruised, that he declared all gave him pain: four more marks +with the iron were now made near the former ones, upon which he was +turned on his face, and three larger made within two inches of the +back-bone. It might have been supposed that the operation was now at +an end, but an old Arab, who had been feeling his throat for some +time, declared that a hot iron and a large burn were absolutely +necessary just above the collar bone on the same side. The poor man +submitted with wonderful patience to all this mangling, and after +drinking a draught of water moved on with the camels. More than +twenty camels were lost this day, on account of their straying out of +the path. After travelling several days over the desert, encountering +great distress and many privations, they arrived at an extensive +wadey called Agbadem. Here there were several wells of excellent +water, forage, and numbers of the tree called Suag, the red berries +of which are nearly as good as cranberries. They here broke in upon +the retreats of about a hundred gazelles, who were enjoying the +fertility of the valley. It was, however, not without great +difficulty, from their extreme shyness, that one was shot, which +afforded an ample and salutary meal to the distressed travellers. +Aghadem is a great rendezvous, and the dread of all small kafilas and +travellers. It is frequented by freebooters of all descriptions. + +On the 24th January, the thermometer, in the shade of Major Denham's +tent, was 101 degrees at half-past two. The animals were all enjoying +the blessings of plenty in the ravines, which run through the range +of low black hills, extending nearly north and south, quite across +the valley. The camels, in particular, feasted on the small branches +of the suag, of which they are fond to excess. The tracks of the +hyena had been numerous for the last three days, and one night they +approached in droves quite close to the encampment. + +The evening of the 25th being beautifully serene, the telescope of +Major Denham afforded great delight to Boo Khaloom; the brother of +the kadi at Mourzouk, Mohamed Abedeen, and several others, for more +than an hour. Major Denham usually passed some time every evening in +Boo Khaloom's tent, and had promised them a sight of the moon _greeb_ +(near) for some time. An old hadje, who obtained a sight by the +assistance of the major, for he could not fix the glass on the +object, after an exclamation of wonder, looked him fully in the face, +spoke not a word, but walked off as last as he could, repeating some +words from the Koran. This conduct the major was pleased to see, +brought down the ridicule of the others, who were gratified beyond +measure, and asked a hundred questions. The night was beautifully +serene and clear, and the three splendid constellations, Orion, Canis +Major, and Taurus, presented a coup d'oeil at once impressive and +sublime. + +On the 25th January, the camels moved off soon after eight, and they +took shelter from the sun, under the shade of some clumps, covered +with high grass, near the wells, in order that the horses might drink +at the moment of their departure. They had three or four long days to +the next water, and the camels were too much fatigued to carry more +than one day's food for the horses. While they were in this +situation, two Arabs, who had gone on with the camels, came galloping +back, to say that they had encountered two Tibboo couriers, on their +way from Bornou to Mourzouk. They soon made their appearance, mounted +on maherhies, only nine days from Kouka. They brought news, that the +sheik el Kanemy, who now governed Bornou, had just returned from a +successful expedition against the sultan of Bergharmi; that he had +attacked and routed a powerful tribe of Arabs, called La Sala; and +that the sultan, on hearing this, had fled, as before, to the south +side of the great river, amongst the Kirdies. + +They proceeded on their route, which was along a continued desert, +and at sunset halted on the sand, without either wood or water, after +twenty-four miles. The courier from Bornou to Mourzouk assured them, +that he should not be more than thirty days on the road from where +they left him. The Tibboos are the only people who will undertake +this most arduous service, and the chances are so much against both +returning in safety, that one is never sent alone. The two men whom +they had encountered were mounted on two superb maherhies, and +proceeding at the rate of about six miles an hour. A bag of zumeeta +(some parched corn), and one or two skins for water, with a small +brass basin, and a wooden bowl, out of which they ate and drank, were +all their comforts. A little meat, cut in strips, and dried in the +sun, called _gedeed,_ is sometimes added to the store, which they eat +raw; for they rarely light a fire for the purpose of cooking; +although the want of this comfort during the nights, on approaching +Fezzan, where the cold winds are sometimes biting after the day's +heat, is often fatal to such travellers. A bag is suspended under the +tail of the maherhy, by which means the dung is preserved, and this +serves as fuel on halting in the night. Without a kafila, and a +sufficient number of camels to carry such indispensables as wood and +water, it is indeed a perilous journey. + +On the 27th, they appeared gradually to approach something resembling +vegetation. They had rising lands and clumps of fine grass the whole +of the way, and the country was not unlike some of the heaths in +England. A herd of more than a hundred gazelles crossed them towards +the evening, and the footmarks of the ostrich, and some of its +feathers, were discovered by the Arabs. The spot where they halted +was called Geogo Balwy. + +Early on the following morning, they made Beere-Kashifery, and soon +afterwards Mina Tahr, (the black bird,) the sheik of the Gunda +Tibboos, attended by three of his followers, approached the camp. +Beere-Kashifery lay within his territories, and no kafilas pass +without paying tribute, which, as he is absolute, sometimes amounts +to half what they possess. In the present case, the visit was one of +respect. Boo Khaloom received him in his tent, and clothed him in a +scarlet bornouse of coarse cloth, and a tawdry silk caftan, which was +considered as a superb present. The Tibboos are smart active fellows, +mounted on small horses of great swiftness; their saddles are of +wood, small and light, open along the bone of the back; the pieces of +wood, of which they are composed, are lashed together with thongs of +hide; the stuffing is camels' hair, wound and plaited so as to be a +perfect guard; the girths and stirrup-leathers are also of plaited +thongs, and the stirrups themselves of iron, very small and light; +into these, four toes only are thrust, the great toe being left to +take its chance. They mount quickly, in half the time an Arab does, +by the assistance of a spear, which they place in the ground, at the +same time the left foot is planted in the stirrup, and thus they +spring into the saddle. + +Their camels had not finished drinking until the sun was full six +fathoms high, as the Arabs term it; and as the expedition was in want +of fresh meat, and indeed of every thing, Mina Tahr proposed that +they should go to a well nearer his people, which, he assured them, +was never yet shown to an Arab. + +On the 29th January, therefore, they moved on, accompanied by the +Tibboos; and after travelling about ten miles, they came to the well +of Duggesheinga. This was a retired spot, undiscoverable from the +ordinary route of travellers, being completely hidden from it by +rising sand-hills. Here the Tibboos left them, promising to return +early on the following day, with sheep, an ox, honey, and fat. This +was joyful news to persons who had not tasted fresh animal food for +fourteen or fifteen days, with the exception of a little camel's +flesh. + +On the following day, the wind and drifting sand were so violent, +that they were obliged to keep their tents during the whole of it. +Major Denham found a loose shirt only the most convenient covering, +as the sand could be shaken off as soon as it made a lodgement, which +with other articles of dress, could not be done, and the irritation +it caused, produced a soreness almost intolerable. A little oil or +fat, from the hand of a negress, all of whom are early taught the art +of shampooing to perfection, rubbed well round the neck, loins, and +back, is the best cure, and the greatest comfort in cases of this +kind; and although, from his Christian belief, he was deprived of the +luxury of possessing half a dozen of these shampooing beauties, yet, +by marrying his negro, Barca, to one of the freed women slaves, as he +had done at Sockna, he became, to a certain degree, also the master +of Zerega, whose education in the castle had been of a superior kind, +and she was of the greatest use to the major on these occasions of +fatigue or sickness. It is an undoubted fact, and in no case probably +better exemplified than in this, that man naturally longs for +attentions and support from female hands, of whatever colour or +country, so soon as debility or sickness comes upon him. + +Towards the evening, when the wind became hushed, and the sky +re-assumed its bright and truly celestial blue, the Tibboo sheik, and +about thirty of his people, male and female, returned; but their +supplies were very scanty for a kafila of nearly three hundred +persons. The sweet milk turned out to be nothing but sour camel's +milk, full of dirt and sand; and the fat was in small quantities, and +very rancid. They, however, purchased a lean sheep for two dollars, +which was indeed a treat. + +Some of the girls who brought the milk were really pretty, as +contrasted with the extreme ugliness of the men. They were different +from those of Bilma, were more of a copper colour, with high +foreheads, and a sinking between the eyes. They have fine teeth, and +are smaller and more delicately formed than the Tibboos who inhabit +the towns. + +It is quite surprising with what terror these children of the desert +view the Arabs, and the idea they have of their invincibility, while +they are smart, active fellows themselves, and both ride and move +better and quicker; but the guns! the guns! are their dread; and five +or six of them will go round a tree, where an Arab has laid down his +gun for a minute, stepping on tiptoe, as if afraid of disturbing it, +talking to each other in a whisper, as if the gun could understand +their exclamations, and, it may be presumed, praying to it not to do +them an injury, as fervently as ever man Friday did Robinson Crusoe's +musket. + +None of the Gunda Tibboos were above the middle size, well made, with +sharp, intelligent, copper-coloured faces, large prominent eyes, flat +noses, large mouth, and teeth regular, but stained a deep red, from +the immoderate use of tobacco; the forehead is high, and the turban, +which is a deep indigo colour, is worn high on the head, and brought +under the chin, and across the face, so as to cover all the lower +part, from the nose downwards; they have sometimes fifteen or twenty +charms, in red, green, or black leather cases, attached to the folds +of their turbans. + +The majority of them have scars on different parts of their faces; +these generally denote their rank, and are considered as an ornament. +Their sheik had one under each eye, with one more on each side of his +forehead, in shape resembling a half-moon. Like the Arabs of the +north, their chieftainship is hereditary, provided the heir be +worthy, any act of cowardice disqualifies, and the command devolves +upon the next successor. Their guide a sheik, Mina Tahr ben Soogo +Lammo, was the seventh in regular succession. This tribe is called +Nafra Sunda, and are always near Beere-Kashifery. + +The watch of Major Denham pleased him wonderfully at first but after +a little time, it was found that looking at himself in the bright +part of the inside of the case, gave him the greatest satisfaction; +they are vainer than the vainest. Mina Tahr was now habited in the +finest clothes that had ever been brought to Beere-Kashifery, and +what to him could be so agreeable as contemplating the reflection of +his own person so decked out? Major Denham, therefore, could not help +giving him a small looking-glass, and he took his station in one +corner of the major's tent, for hours, surveying himself with a +satisfaction that burst from his lips in frequent exclamations of +joy, and which he also occasionally testified by sundry high jumps +and springs into the air. + +After regaining the road, they moved till noon, when their horses +were watered at a well called Kanimani, or the sheep's well, where +some really sweet milk was brought to them, in immensely large basket +bottles, some holding two gallons and more. They had drank and +acknowledged its goodness, and how grateful it was to their weak +stomachs, before they found out that it was camel's milk. + +No traveller in Africa should imagine that _this_ he could not bear, +or _that_ could not be endured. It is most wonderful how a man's +taste conforms itself to his necessities. Six months ago camel's milk +would have acted upon them as an emetic, now they thought it a most +refreshing and grateful cordial. + +The face of the country now improved in appearance every mile, and on +this day they passed along, what seemed to them a most joyous valley, +smiling in flowery grasses, tulloh trees, and kossom. About mid-day, +they halted in a luxurious shade, the ground covered with creeping +vines of the colycinth, in full blossom, which, with the red flower +of the kossom, that drooped over their heads, made their resting +place a little Arcadia. + +They killed to-day one of the largest serpents they had seen: it is +called _liffa_ by the Arabs, and its bite is said to be mortal, +unless the part is instantly cut out. It is a mistaken idea that all +the serpent tribe are called liffa; this species alone bears the +name; it has two horns, and is of a light brown colour. Major +Denham's old Choush Ghreneim had a distorted foot, which was but of +little use to him except on horseback, from the bite of one of those +poisonous reptiles, notwithstanding the part infected was cut out; he +was for thirteen months confined to his hut, and never expected to +recover. + +Arabs are always on the look out for plunder, "'Tis my vocation, +Hal," none were ashamed to acknowledge it, but they were on this +occasion to act as an escort, to oppose banditti, and not play the +part of one. Nevertheless, they were greatly dissatisfied at having +come so far, and _done_ so little; they formed small parties for +reconnoitering on each side of the road, and were open-mouthed for +any thing that might offer. One fellow on foot had traced the marks +of a flock of sheep, to a small village of tents to the east of their +course, and now gave notice of the discovery he had made, but that +the people had seen him, and he believed struck their tents. Major +Denham felt that he should be a check upon them in their +plunderings, and he, Boo Khaloom, and about a dozen horsemen, with +each a footman behind him, instantly started for their retreat, which +lay over the hills to the east. On arriving at the spot, in a valley +of considerable beauty, where these flocks and tents had been +observed, they found the place quite deserted. The poor affrighted +shepherds had moved off with their all, knowing too well what would +be their treatment from the Naz Abiad (white people), as they call +the Arabs. Their caution, however, was made the excuse for plundering +them, and a pursuit was instantly determined upon. "What! not stay to +sell their sheep--the rogues, we'll take them without payment." They +scoured two valleys, without discovering the fugitives, and Major +Denham began to hope that the Tibboos had eluded their pursuers, when +after crossing a deep ravine, and ascending the succeeding ridge, +they came directly on two hundred head of cattle, and about twenty +persons, men, women, and children, with ten camels, laden with their +tents and other necessaries, all moving off. The extra Arabs +instantly slipped from behind their leaders, and with a shout rushed +down the hill; part headed the cattle to prevent their escape, and +the most rapid plunder immediately commenced. The camels were +instantly brought to the ground, and every part of their load rifled; +the poor girls and women lifted up their hands to Major Denham, +stripped as they were to the skin, but he could do nothing more for +them beyond saving their lives. A sheik and a marabout assured Major +Denham, it was quite lawful to plunder those, who left their tents +instead of supplying travellers. Boo Khaloom now came up and was +petitioned. Major Denham saw that he was ashamed of the paltry booty +which his followers had obtained, as well as moved by the tears of +the sufferers. The major seized the favourable moment, and advised +that the Arabs should give every thing back, and have a few sheep and +an ox for a bousafer (feast), he accordingly gave the orders, and the +Arabs from under their barracans, threw down the wrappers they had +torn off the bodies of the Tibboo women, and the major was glad in +his heart, when taking ten sheep and a fat bullock, they left these +poor creatures to their fate, as had more Arabs arrived, they would +most certainly have stripped them of every thing. + +On the 31st, Boo Khaloom had thought it right to send on a Tibboo, +with the news of their approach to the sheik El Kanemy who, they +understood, resided at Kouka, and one was despatched with a camel, +and a man of Mina Tahr. On their arrival at Kofei, the Tibboo only, +who had been despatched, was found alone and naked, some Tibboo Arabs +of a tribe called Wandela, had met them near the well, on the +preceding evening, and robbed him even to his cap, and taking from +him the letters, saying they cared not for the sheik or Boo Khaloom, +tied him to a tree and there left him. In this state he was found by +Major Denham's party, and Mr. Clapperton coming up soon afterwards, +gave him from his biscuit bag, wherewithal to break his fast, after +being twenty-four hours without eating. Eighteen men had stripped +him, he said, and taken off the camel and Mina Tahr's man, who, they +also said, should be ransomed, or have his throat cut. Mina Tahr +represented these people as the worst on the road, in every sense of +the word. "They have no flocks," said he, "and have not more than +three hundred camels, although their numbers are one thousand and +more; they live by plunder, and have no connexion with any other +people. No considerable body of men can follow them; their tents are +in the heart of the desert, and there are no wells for four days in +the line of their retreat. Geddy Ben Agah is their chief, and I alone +would give fifty camels for his head: these are the people, who often +attack and murder travellers and small kafilas, and the Gundowy, who +respect strangers, have the credit of it." + +The men of Traita, with their chief Eskou Ben Cogla, came in the +evening to welcome them; the well Kofei belongs to them, and greatly +enraged they appeared to be at the conduct of the Wandelas. This +chief returned to Boo Khaloom his letters, which he said, the chief +of the Wandelas had sent him that morning, begging that he would meet +the kafila at the well, and deliver them to Boo Khaloom; had he known +then what had taken place, "the slave," he said, "should have been +stabbed at his father's grave, before he would have delivered them." +Boo Khaloom was greatly enraged, and Major Denham was almost afraid, +that he would have revenged himself on the Traita chiefs. However the +Tibboo courier was again clothed and mounted, and once more started +for Bornou. + +Their course during the early part of the following day, was due +south, and through a country more thickly planted by the all tasteful +hand of bounteous nature. Boo Khaloom, Major Denham, and about six +Arabs had ridden on in front; it was said they had lost the track, +and should miss the well; the day had been oppressively hot--the +major's companions were sick and fatigued, and they dreaded the want +of water. A fine dust, arising from a light clayey and sandy soil, +had also increased their sufferings; the exclamations of the Arab who +first discovered the wells, were indeed music to their ears, and +after satisfying his own thirst, with that of his weary animals, +Major Denham laid himself down by one of the distant wells, far from +his companions, and these moments of tranquillity, the freshness of +the air, with the melody of the hundred songsters that were perched +amongst the creeping plants, whose flowers threw an aromatic odour +all around, were a relief scarcely to be described. Ere long, +however, the noisy kafila, and the clouds of dust, which accompanied +it, disturbed him from the delightful reverie into which he had +fallen. + +Previously to their arrival at Lari, they came upon two encampments +of the Traita Tibboos, calling themselves the sheik's people; their +huts were not numerous, but very regularly built in a square, with a +space left in the north and south faces of the quadrangle, for the +use of the cattle. The huts were entirely of mats, which excluding +the sun, yet admitted both the light and the air. These habitations +for fine weather are preferable to the bete shars or tents of the +Arabs of the north. The interior was singularly neat; clean wooden +bowls, with each a cover of basketwork, for holding their milk, were +hung against the wall. In the centre of the enclosure were about one +hundred and fifty head of cattle, feeding from cradles; these were +chiefly milch cows with calves, and sheep. The Tibboos received them +kindly at first, but presumed rather too much on sheik Kaneny's +protection, which they claim or throw off, it is said, accordingly as +it suits their purpose. The modest request of a man with two hundred +armed Arabs, for a little milk, was refused, and ready as the Arabs +are to throw down the gauntlet, a slight expression of displeasure +from their leader, was followed by such a rapid attack on the +Tibboos, that before Major Denham could mount, half the stock was +driven off, and the sheik well bastinadoed. Boo Khaloom was, however, +too kind to injure them, and after driving their cattle for about a +mile, he allowed them to return, with a caution to be more +accommodating for the future. Accustomed as these people are to +plunder one another, they expect no better usage from any one, who +visits them, provided they are strong enough, and _vice versa._ They +are perfect Spartans in the art of thieving, both male and female. + +An old woman, who was sitting at the door of one of the huts, sent a +very pretty girl to Major Denham, as he was standing by his horse, +whose massy amber necklace, greased head, and coral nose-studs and +ear-rings, announced a person of no common order, to see what she +could pick up; and after gaining possession of his handkerchief and +some needles, while he turned his head, in an instant thrust her hand +into the pocket of the saddle cloth, as she said, to find some beads, +for she knew he had plenty. + +Another and much larger nest of the Traitas, lay to the east of their +course, a little further on, with numerous flocks and herds. About +two in the afternoon, they arrived at Lari, ten miles distant from +Mittimee. On ascending the rising ground on which the town stands, +the distressing sight presented itself of all the female, and most of +the male inhabitants with their families, flying across the plain in +all directions, alarmed at the strength of the kafila. Beyond, +however, was an object full of interest to them, and the sight of +which conveyed to their minds a sensation so gratifying and +inspiring, that it would be difficult for language to convey an idea +of its force and pleasure. The great Lake Tchad, glowing with the +golden rays of the sun in its strength, appeared to be within a mile +of the spot on which they stood. The hearts of the whole party +bounded within them at the prospect, for they believed this lake to +be the key to the great object of their search: and they could not +refrain from silently imploring Heaven's continued protection, which +had enabled them to proceed so far in health and strength, even to +the accomplishment of their task. + +It was long before Boo Khuloom's best endeavours could restore +confidence; the inhabitants had been plundered by the Tuaricks only +the year before, and four hundred of their people butchered, and but +a few days before, a party of the same nation had again pillaged +them, though partially. When at length these people were satisfied +that no harm was intended them, the women came in numbers with +baskets of gussub, gafooly, fowls and honey, which were purchased by +small pieces of coral and amber of the coarsest kinds, and coloured +beads. One merchant bought a fine lamb for two bits of amber, worth +about two pence each in Europe; two needles purchased a fowl, and a +handful of salt, four or five good-sized fish from the lake. + +Lari is inhabited by the people of Kanem, who are known by the name +of Kanimboo; the women are good looking, laughing negresses, and all +but naked; but this they were now used to, and it excited no emotions +of surprise. Most of them had a square of silver or tin hanging at +the back of the head, suspended from the hair, which was brought down +in narrow plaits, quite round the neck. + +The town of Lari stands on an eminence, and may probably contain two +thousand inhabitants. The huts are built of the rush which grows by +the side of the lake, have conical tops, and look very like +well-thatched stacks of corn in England. They have neat enclosures +round them, made with fences of the same reed, and passages leading +to them like labyrinths. In the enclosure are a goat or two, poultry, +and sometimes a cow. The women were almost always spinning cotton, +which grows well, though not abundantly, near the town and the lake. +The interior of the huts is neat, they are completely circular, with +no admission for air or light, except at the door, which has a mat, +hung up by way of safeguard. Major Denham entered one of the best +appearance, although the owner gave him no smiles of encouragement, +and followed close at his heels, with a spear and dagger in his hand. +In one corner stood the bed, a couch of rushes lashed together, and +supported by six poles, fixed strongly in the ground. This was +covered by the skins of the tiger-cat and wild bull. Round the sides +were hung the wooden bowls, used for water and milk; his tall shield +rested against the wall. The hut had a division of mat-work, one half +being allotted to the female part of the family. The owner, however, +continued to look at his unexpected visitor with so much suspicion, +and seemed so little pleased with his visit, notwithstanding all the +endeavours of Major Denham to assure him, he was his friend, that he +hurried from the inhospitable door, and resumed his walk through the +town. + +On quitting Lari, they immediately plunged into a thickly-planted +forest of acacias, with high underwood, and at the distance of only a +few hundred yards from the town, they came upon large heaps of +elephants' dung, forming hillocks three or four feet in height, and +marks of their footsteps; the tracks of these animals increased as +they proceeded. Part of the day their road lay along the banks of the +Tchad, and the elephants' footmarks of an immense size, and only a +few hours old, were in abundance. Whole trees were broken down, where +they had fed; and where they had reposed their ponderous bodies, +young trees, shrubs, and underwood, had been crushed beneath their +weight. They also killed an enormous snake, a species of coluber; it +was a most disgusting, horrible animal, but not, however, venomous. +It measured eighteen feet from the mouth to the tail, it was shot by +five balls and was still moving off, when two Arabs, with each a +sword, nearly severed the head from the body. On opening the belly, +several pounds of fat were found, and carefully taken off by the two +native guides, by whom they were accompanied. This they pronounced a +sovereign remedy for sick and diseased cattle, and much prized +amongst them. Scarcely a mile further, a drove of wild red cattle, +which were first taken for deer, were seen bounding to the westward. +They were what the Arabs called, _bugra hammar wahash_ (red cow +wild.) They appeared to partake of the bullock and buffalo, with a +tuft or lump on the shoulder. + +They bivouacked near a small parcel of huts, called Nyagami, in a +beautiful spot, so thick of wood, that they could scarcely find a +clear place for their encampment. While the tents were fixing, an +alarm was given of wild boars; one of the party followed the scent, +and on his return, said he had seen a lion, and near him seven +gazelles. No information could be obtained from the natives of lions +ever being seen in the neighbourhood; numerous other animals appeared +to abound, and that confirmed the opinion. + +They moved for Woodie on the 7th February, accompanied by two Arabs +of Boo Saif. Major Denham left the kafila, and proceeded a little to +the westward, making a parallel movement with the camels. Birds of +the most beautiful plumage were perched on every tree, and several +monkeys chattered at them so impudently, that separating one from the +rest, they chased him for nearly half an hour; he did not run very +fast, nor straight forward, but was constantly doubling and turning, +with his head over his shoulder, to see who was close to him. He was +a handsome fellow, of a light brown colour, and black about the +muzzle. About noon they came to a village of huts, called Barrah, and +although only three in number, the natives flew in all directions. +On their approaching the town, they beckoned to them, and got off +their horses, for the purpose of giving them confidence, and sat down +under the shade of a large tamarind tree. An old negro, who spoke a +little Arabic, was the first who ventured to approach; seeing that he +was not ill-treated, the others soon followed his example. Major +Denham begged a little sour milk, a most refreshing beverage after a +hot ride, but none was to be found, until they were assured that it +should be paid for, and at the sight of the dollar they all jumped +and skipped like so many monkeys. Major Denham now began to eat some +biscuit which he had in his saddle cloth, which created much +astonishment, and the first to whom he offered some, refused to eat +it. One, rather bolder than the rest, put a small piece in his mouth, +and pronounced it good, with such extravagant gestures, that the +visitors all became clamorous. The major refused for a long time the +man, who had been suspicious at first, to the great amusement of the +rest, who seemed to relish the joke amazingly. + +The little nest of thatched huts in which they lived, was most +beautifully situated on a rising spot, in the midst of a rich and +luxuriant though not thick forest, about three miles to the northeast +of Woodie. One of the old men accompanied them, while his son carried +a sheep, which the major had purchased at Woodie, for which service +he was rewarded by two coral beads and a little snuff. + +Close to the town of Woodie, they found the tents. The party had made +about fourteen miles, without leaving the banks of the lake at any +great distance. Two elephants were seen swimming in the lake this +day, and one, belonging to a drove at a distance, absolutely remained +just before the kafila. Hillman had gone on in front on his mule, +suffering sadly from weakness and fatigue, and had laid himself down +in what appeared a delightful shade, to await the arrival of the +camels, not expecting to see an elephant. He was actually reposing +within a dozen yards of a very large one, without being aware of it; +and on an Arab striking the animal with a spear, he roared out, and +moved off. + +Poor Hillman's alarm was extreme. + +The courier had been sent off a second time, after being re-clothed +and remounted, to receive the sheik's orders, and they were not to +proceed beyond Woodie until his pleasure was known. So jealous and +suspicious are these negro princes of the encroachments of the Arabs, +that divers were the speculations as to whether the sheik would or +would not allow the Arabs to proceed with the party nearer his +capital. + +A weekly fsug, or market, was held about a mile from the town, and +the women, flocking from the neighbouring negro villages, mounted on +bullocks, who have a thong of hide passed through the cartilage of +the nose when young, and are managed with great ease, had a curious +appearance. A skin is spread on the animal's back, upon which, after +hanging the different articles they take for sale, they mount +themselves. Milk, sour and sweet, a little honey, lowls, gussub, and +gafooly, are amongst their wares; fat and _meloheea_ (ochra), a green +herb, which, with the bazeen, all negroes eat voraciously, and indeed +Christians too, as was afterwards experienced. The men brought oxen, +sheep, goats, and slaves; the latter were few in number, and in +miserable condition. + +Woodie is a capital, or, as they say, blad kebir, and is governed by +a sheik, who is a eunuch, and a man of considerable importance; they +appear to have all the necessaries of life in abundance, and are the +most indolent people which the travellers ever met with. The women +spin a little cotton, and weave it into a coarse cloth of about six +inches width. The men either lie idling in their huts during the +whole of the day, or in the shade of a building formed by four +supporters and a thatched roof, which stands in an open space amongst +the huts; this is also the court of justice and the house of prayer. +The men are considerably above the common stature, and of an athletic +make, but have an expression of features particularly dull and heavy. +The town stands about one mile west of the Tchad, four short days' +march from Bornou. + +The women, like the Tibboos, have a square piece of blue or white +cloth tied over one shoulder, which forms their whole covering; their +hair is, however, curiously and laboriously trained, and it was +observed, that no one of tender years had any thing like a perfect head +of hair. From childhood the head is shaved, leaving only the top +covered; the hair from hence falls down quite round, from the +forehead to the pole of the neck, and is there formed into one solid +plait, which in front lying quite flat just over the eyes, and, +behind, being turned up with a little curl, has just the appearance +of an old-fashioned coachman's wig in England; some of them are, +however, very pretty. + +On the morning of the 10th February, Major Denham went to the +eastward, in order to see the extent of the forest, and also, if +possible, to get a sight of the herd of upwards of one hundred and +fifty elephants, which some of the Arabs had seen the day before, +while their camels were feeding. He was not disappointed, for he +found them about six miles from the town, on the grounds annually +overflowed by the waters of the lake, where the coarse grass is twice +the height of a man; they seemed to cover the face of the country, +and far exceeded the number which was reported. When the waters flow +over these their pasturages, they are forced by hunger to approach +the towns, and spread devastation throughout their march; whole +plantations, the hopes of the inhabitants for the next year, are +sometimes destroyed in a single night. + +When quite fatigued, Major Denham determined on making for some huts, +and begged a little milk, sweet or sour. No knowing landlady of a +country ever scanned the character of her customer more than did this +untaught, though cunning negro, who was found there. He first denied +that he had any, notwithstanding the bowls were scarcely ten paces +behind him, and then asked, what they had got to pay for it? Major +Denham had in reality nothing with him; and after offering his pocket +handkerchief, which was returned to him, as not worth any thing, he +was about to depart, though ten long miles from the tents, thirsty as +he was, when the Arab pointed to a needle, which was sticking in the +major's jacket; for this and a white bead, which the Arab produced, +they had a bowl of fine milk and a basket of nuts, which refreshed +them much. On their way to the tents, they saw a flock of at least +five hundred pelicans, but could not get near enough to fire at them. + +On the 11th, two of the sheik's officers arrived, with letters and a +present of goroo nuts of Soudan; they have a pleasant bitter taste, +and are much esteemed by all the Tripoli people. These letters +pressed Boo Khaloom to continue his march towards Kouka, with all his +people, a very great proof of his confidence in the peaceable +disposition of their chief. In the evening of the same day, they +reached a town called Burwha. It is walled, and it was the first +negro one they had seen. It may be called in that country a place of +some strength, in proof of which, the inhabitants have always defied +the Tuarick marauders, who never entered the town. The walls may be +about thirteen or fourteen feet high, and have a dry ditch which runs +quite round them. The town probably covers an extent equal to three +square miles, and contains five or six thousand inhabitants. There is +a covered way, from which the defenders lance their spears at the +besiegers, and instantly conceal themselves. There are but two gates, +which are nearly east and west; and these being the most vulnerable +part for an enemy to attack, are defended by mounds of earth thrown +up on each side, and carried out at least twenty yards in front of +the gate, and have nearly perpendicular faces. These advanced posts +are always thickly manned, and they conceive them to be a great +defence to their walls; they cannot, however, calculate upon their +being abandoned, as an enemy once in possession of them, would so +completely command the town, that from thence every part of it may be +seen. Nevertheless, Burwha is a strong place, considering the means +of attack which the Arabs have. + +Major Denham rode nearly the whole of this day with Min Ali Tahar, +the Gundowy Tibbo sheik, who was accompanying them to Bornou; he had +some little difference with the sheik, of whom he was perfectly +independent, and Boo Khaloom, ever politic, undertook to make up the +misunderstanding; thereby not only showing his influence, but +securing in a manner the future friendship of Tahar, whose district +was always considered the most dangerous part of the Tibboo country, +on the road to Mourzouk. Tahar was a sharp, intelligent fellow, spoke +a little Arabic, and had often asked Major Denham many questions +about his country, and his sultan or king, but on this day he was +more inquisitive than usual. "Rais Khaleel," said he, "what would +your sultan do to Min Ali, if he was to go to England? Would he kill +me, or would he keep me there a prisoner? I should like to be there +for about a month." + +"Certainly neither the one nor the other," replied Major Denham; "he +would be much more inclined to make you a handsome present, and send +you back again." + +"Oh!" exclaimed Min Ali, "I should take him something; but what could +I give him? nothing but the skins of a dozen ostriches, some +elephants' teeth, and a lion's skin." + +"The value of the present," said Major Denham, "could be of no +importance to my sultan; he would look at the intention. Do you, +however, befriend his people; remember the Inglezi that you have +seen; and should any more ever find their way to your tents, give +them milk and sheep, and put them in the road they are going. +Promise me to do this, and I can almost promise you, that my sultan +shall send you a sword, such a one as Hateeta had on my return, +without your going to England, or giving him any thing." + +"Is he such a man?" exclaimed Min Ali. "Barak Allah! what is his +name?" + +"George," replied Major Denham. + +"George," repeated Min Ali. "Health to George; much of it! _Salem +Ali; George yassur._ Tell him, Min Ali Tahar wishes him all health +and happiness; that he is a Tibboo, who can command a thousand +spears, and fears no man. Is he liberal? Is his heart large? _Gulba +kablr,_ does he give presents to his people?" + +"Very much so indeed," replied Major Denham; "some of his people +think him too generous." + +"By the head of my father!" _"Raas el Booe!_" exclaimed Min Ali, they +are wrong; the sultan of a great people should have a large heart, or +he is unworthy of them. Who will succeed him when he dies?" + +"His brother," answered Major Denham. "What is his name?" asked Min +Ali. "Frederick," replied the major. + +"Barak Allah!" cried Min Ali; "I hope he will be like George, +_matlook_ (liberal). _Salem Ali Frederick!_ How many wives have +they?" + +"No Englishman," replied Major Denham, "has more than one." + +"A gieb! a gieb! wonderful! wonderful!" exclaimed Min Ali; why, they +should have a hundred." + +"No, no," said Major Denham, "we think that a sin." "Wallah! really!" +(literally, by God!) cried Min Ali; "why, I have four now, and I have +had more than sixty. She, however, whom I like best, always says, one +would be more lawful; she may be right; you say she is. You are a +great people; I see you are a great people, and know every thing. I, +a Tibboo, am little better than a gazelle." + + + +CHAPTER XXII. + +The 17th of February was a momentous day to the Europeans, as well as +to their conductors. Notwithstanding all the difficulties that had +presented themselves at the various stages of their journey, they +were at last within a few short miles of their destination; they were +about to become acquainted with a people, who had never seen, or +scarcely heard of a European, and to tread on ground, the knowledge +and true situation of which had hitherto been wholly unknown. These +ideas of course excited no common sensations, and could scarcely be +unaccompanied by strong hopes of their labours being beneficial to +the race amongst whom they were shortly to mix; of their laying the +first stone of a work, which might lead to their civilization, if not +their emancipation from all their prejudices and ignorance, at the +same time open a field of commerce to their own country, which might +increase its wealth and prosperity. + +The accounts, which they had received of the state of this country, +had been so contradictory, that no opinion could be formed as to the +real condition, or the number of its inhabitants. They had been told +that the sheik's soldiers were a few ragged negroes, armed with +spears, who lived upon the plunder of the black kaffir countries, by +which he was surrounded, and which he was enabled to subdue by the +assistance of a few Arabs, who were in his service; and again they +had been assured that his forces were not only numerous, but to a +certain degree well trained. The degree of credit which might be +attached to these reports, was nearly balanced in the scales of +probability, and they advanced towards the town of Kouka, in a most +interesting state of uncertainty, whether they should find its chief +at the head of thousands, or be received by him under a tree, +surrounded by a few naked slaves. + +These doubts, however, were quickly removed; Major Denham had ridden +on a short distance in front of Boo Khaloom, with his train of Arabs +all mounted, and dressed out in their best apparel, and from the +thickness of the leaves soon lost sight of them, fancying that the +road could not be mistaken. He rode still onwards, and on approaching +a spot less thickly planted, was not a little surprised to see in +front of him a body of several thousand cavalry, drawn up in a line, +and extending right and left as far as he could see; checking his +horse, he awaited the arrival of his party, under the shade of a +wide-spreading acacia. The Bornou troops remained quite steady +without noise or confusion, and a few horsemen, who were moving about +in front giving directions, were the only persons out of the ranks. +On the Arabs appearing in sight, a shout or yell was given by the +sheik's people, which rent the air; a blast was blown from their rude +instruments of music equally loud, and they moved on to meet Boo +Khaloom and his Arabs. There was an appearance of tact and management +in their movements, which astonished every one; three separate small +bodies from the centre and each flank, kept charging rapidly towards +them, to within a few feet of their horses' heads, without checking +the speed of their own, until the movement of their halt, while the +whole body moved onwards. These parties, shaking their spears over +their heads, exclaimed, _Barca! barca! Alla hiakkum, cha, alla +cheraga;_ Blessing! blessing! sons of your country! sons of your +country. While all this was going on, they closed in their left and +right flanks, and surrounded the little body of Arab warriors so +completely, as to give the compliment of welcoming them, very much +the appearance of a declaration of their contempt of their weakness. +They were all now so closely pressed as to be nearly smothered, and +in some danger from the crowding of the horses, and clashing of the +spears; moving on was impossible, and they therefore came to a full +stop. Boo Khaloom was much enraged, but it was all to no purpose; he +was only answered by shrieks of welcome, and the spears most +unpleasantly rattled over their heads, expressive of the same +feeling. This annoyance, however, was not of long duration. Barca +Gana, the sheik's first general, a negro of noble aspect, clothed in +a figured silk tobe, and mounted on a beautiful Mandara horse, made +his appearance, and after a little delay, the rear was cleared of +those, who had pressed in upon the Europeans and Arabs, and they +moved on, although very slowly, from the frequent impediments thrown +in their way by these wild equestrians. + +The sheik's negroes as they were called, meaning the black chiefs and +favourites, all raised to that rank by some deed of bravery, were +habited in coats of mail composed of iron chain, which covered them +from the throat to the knees, dividing behind, and coming on each +side of the horse. Their horses heads were also defended by plates of +iron, brass, and silver, just leaving sufficient room for the eyes of +the animal. + +At length, on arriving at the gate of the town, the Europeans, Boo +Khaloom, and about a dozen of his followers, were alone allowed to +enter the gates, and they proceeded along a wide street, completely +lined with spearmen on foot, with cavalry in front of them to the +door of the sheik's residence. Here the horsemen were formed up three +deep, and they came to a stand; some of the chief attendants came +out, and after a great many Barcas! barcas! retired, when others +performed the same ceremony. They were now again left sitting on +their horses in the sun. Boo Khaloom began to lose all patience, and +swore by the bashaw's head, that he would return to the tents, if he +was not immediately admitted, he got, however, no satisfaction but a +motion of the hand from one of the chiefs, meaning "wait patiently;" +and Major Denham whispered to him the necessity of obeying, as they +were hemmed in on all sides, and to retire without permission would +have been as difficult as to advance. Barca Gana now appeared, and +made a sign that Boo Khaloom should dismount; the Europeans were +about to follow his example, when an intimation that Boo Khaloom was +alone to be admitted, fixed them again to their saddles. Another half +hour at least elapsed, without any news from the interior of the +building, when the gates opened, and the four Englishmen only were +called for, and they advanced to the skiffa (entrance). Here they +were stopped most unceremoniously by the black guards in waiting, and +were allowed one by one only to ascend a staircase; at the top of +which they were again brought to a stand by crossed spears, and the +open flat hand of a negro laid upon their breast. Boo Khaloom came +from the inner chamber, and asked, "If we were prepared to salute the +sheik, as we did the bashaw." They replied, "certainly;" which was +merely an inclination of the head, and laying the right hand on the +heart. He advised their laying their hands also on their heads--but +they replied the thing was impossible. They had but one manner of +salutation for any body, except their own sovereign. + +Another parley now took place, but in a minute or two he returned, +and they were ushered into the presence of the sheik of spears. +They found him in a small dark room, sitting on a carpet, plainly +dressed in a blue tobe of Soudan, and a shawl turban. Two negroes +were on each side of him, armed with pistols, and on his carpet lay a +brace of those instruments. Fire arms were hanging in different +parts of the room, presents from the bashaw and Mustapha L'Achmar, +the sultan of Fezzan, which are here considered as invaluable. His +personal appearance was prepossessing, apparently not more than +forty-five or forty-six, with an expressive countenance and +benevolent smile. They delivered their letter from the bashaw, and +after he had read it, he inquired, "What was our object in coming?" +They answered, "to see the country merely, and to give an account of +its inhabitants, produce, and appearance; as our sultan was desirous +of knowing every part of the globe." His reply was, "that we were +welcome, and whatever he could show us would give him pleasure; that +he had ordered huts to be built for us in the town, and that we might +then go, accompanied by one of his people, to see them, and that when +we were recovered from the fatigue of our long journey, he would be +happy to see us." With this, they took their leave. Their huts were +little round mud buildings, placed within a wall, at no great +distance from the residence of the sheik. The enclosure was +quadrangular, and had several divisions, formed by partitions of +straw mats, where nests of huts were built, and occupied by the +stranger merchants, who accompanied the kafila. One of these +divisions was assigned to the Europeans, and they crept into the +shade of their earthly dwellings, not a little fatigued with their +entrée and presentation. + +Their huts were immediately so crowded with visitors, that they had +not a moment's peace, and the heat was insufferable. Boo Khaloom had +delivered his presents from the bashaw, and brought the Europeans a +message of compliment, together with an intimation, that their +presents would be received on the following day. About noon, a +summons was received for them to attend the sheik, and they proceeded +to the palace, preceded by their negroes, bearing the articles +destined for the sheik by their government, consisting of a +double-barrelled gun, with a box, and all the apparatus complete, a +pair of excellent pistols, in a case; two pieces of superfine +broad-cloth, red and blue, to which were added a set of china and two +bundles of spices. + +The ceremony of getting into the presence was ridiculous enough, +although nothing could be more plain and devoid of pretension than +the appearance of the sheik himself. They entered through passages +lined with attendants, the front men sitting on their hams; and when +they advanced too quickly, they were suddenly arrested by these +fellows, who caught forcibly hold of them by their legs, and had not +the crowd prevented their falling, they would most infallibly have +become prostrate before arriving in the presence. Previously to +entering into the open court in which they were received; their +papouches, or slippers, were whipped off by those active, though +sedentary gentlemen of the chamber, and they were seated on some +clean sand, on each side of a raised bench of earth, covered with a +carpet, on which the sheik was reclining. They laid the gun and the +pistols together before him, and explained to him the locks, +turnscrews, and steel shot cases, holding two charges each, with all +of which he seemed exceedingly well pleased; the powder-flask, and +the manner in which the charge is divided from the body of the +powder, did not escape his observation. The other articles were taken +off by the slaves, as soon as they were laid before him. Again they +were questioned as to the object of their visit. The sheik, however, +showed evident satisfaction at their assurance that the king of +England had heard of Bornou and himself, and immediately turning to +his kaganawha (counsellors), said, "This is in consequence of our +defeating the Begharmis." Upon which the chief who had most +distinguished himself in these memorable battles, Ragah Turby, (the +gatherer of horses,) seating himself in front of them, demanded, "Did +he ever hear of me?" The immediate reply of _"Certainly,"_ did +wonders for the European cause. Exclamations were general, and "Ah! +then your king must be a great man," was re-echoed from every side. +They had not any thing offered them by way of refreshment, and took +their leave. + +It may be here observed, that besides occasional presents of +bullocks, camel loads of wheat and rice, leathern skins of butter, +jars of honey, and honey in the comb, five or six wooden bowls were +sent them morning and evening, containing rice with meat, paste made +of barley flour, savoury but very greasy, and on their first arrival, +as many had been sent of sweets, mostly composed of curd and honey. + +In England a brace of trout might be considered as a handsome present +to a traveller sojourning in the neighbourhood of a stream, but at +Bornou things are managed differently. A camel load of bream and a +sort of mullet were thrown before their huts on the second morning +after their arrival, and for fear that should not be sufficient, in +the evening another was sent. + +The costume of the women, who attended the fsug, or market, was +various; those of Kanem and Bornou were most numerous, and the former +was as becoming as the latter had a contrary appearance. The variety +in costume amongst the ladies consists entirely in the head +ornaments; the only difference in the scanty covering which is +bestowed on the other parts of the person, lies in the choice of the +wearer, who either ties the piece of linen, blue or white, under the +arms and across the breasts, or fastens it rather fantastically on +one shoulder, leaving one breast naked. The Kanamboo women have small +plaits of hair hanging down all round the head, quite to the poll of +the neck, with a roll of leather, or string of little brass beads in +front, hanging down from the centre on each side of the face, which +has by no means an unbecoming appearance; they have sometimes strings +of silver rings instead of the brass, and a large round silver +ornament in front of their foreheads. The female slaves from Musgow, +a large kingdom to the south-east of Mandara, are particularly +disagreeable in their appearance, although considered as very +trustworthy, and capable of great labour; their hair is rolled up in +three large plaits, which extend from the forehead to the back of the +neck, like the Bornowy; one larger in the centre, and two smaller on +each side; they have silver studs in their nose, and one large one +just under the lower lip, of the size of a shilling, which goes quite +through into the mouth; to make room for this ornament, a tooth or +two are sometimes displaced. + +Amongst the articles offered to Major Denham in the market, was a +young lion and a monkey; the latter appeared really the more +dangerous of the two, and from being a degree or two lighter in +complexion than his master, he seemed to have taken a decided +aversion to the European. + +The lion walked about with great unconcern, confined merely by a +small rope round his neck, held by the negro who had caught him when +he was not two months old, and having had him for a period of three +months, now wished to part with him; he was about the size of a +donkey colt, with very large limbs, and the people seemed to go very +close to him without much alarm, notwithstanding he struck with his +foot the leg of one man who stood in his way, and made the blood flow +copiously. They opened the ring which was formed round the noble +animal, as Major Denham approached, and coming within two or three +yards of him, he fixed his eye upon him, in a way that excited +sensations, which it was impossible to describe, and from which the +major was awakened, by a fellow calling him to come nearer, at the +same time laying his hand on the animal's back; a moment's +recollection convinced him, that there could be no more danger +nearer, than where he was, and he stepped boldly up beside the negro, +and he believed he should have laid his hand on the lion the next +moment, but the beast, after looking carelessly at him, brushed past +his legs, broke the ring, overturning several who stood before him, +and bounded off to another part, where there were fewer people. + +It remained that Major Denham should be introduced to the sultan, in +his royal residence at Birnie, where all the real state and pomp of +the kingdom, with none of its real power were concentrated. On the +2nd March, the English accompanied Boo Khaloom to that city, and on +their arrival, the following day was fixed for the interview. Fashion +even in the most refined European courts, does not always follow the +absolute guidance of taste or reason, and her magic power is often +displayed in converting deformities into beauties, but there is +certainly no court, of which the taste is so absurd, grotesque, and +monstrous, as that to which Major Denham was now introduced. An +enormous protruding belly, and a huge misshapen head, are the two +features, without which it is vain to aspire to the rank of a +courtier, or fine gentleman. The form, valued perhaps as the type of +abundance and luxury, is esteemed so essential, that where nature has +not bestowed, and the most excessive feeding and cramming cannot +supply it, wadding is employed, and a false belly produced, which in +riding appears to hang over the saddle. Turbans are also wrapped +round the head, in fold after fold, till it appears swelled on one +side to the most unnatural dimensions, and only one half of the face +remains visible. The fictitious bulk of the lords of Bornou is still +further augmented by drawing round them, even in this burning +climate, ten or twelve successive robes of cotton or silk, while the +whole is covered with numberless charms enclosed in green leathern +cases. Yet under all these incumbrances, they do sometimes mount and +take the field, but the idea of such unwieldy hogsheads being of any +avail in the day of battle, appeared altogether ridiculous, and it +proved accordingly, that on such high occasions, they merely +exhibited themselves as ornaments, without making even a show of +encountering the enemy. + +With about three hundred of this puissant chivalry before and around +him, the sultan was himself seated in a sort of cage of cane or wood +near the door of his garden, on a seat, which at the distance +appeared to be covered with silk or satin, and through the railing +looked upon the assembly before him, who formed a kind of semicircle, +extending from his seat to nearly where the English were waiting. The +courtiers having taken their seats in due form, the embassy was +allowed to approach within about pistol shot of the spot where the +sultan was sitting, and desired to sit down, when the ugliest black +that can be imagined, his chief eunuch, the only person who +approached the sultan's seat, asked for the presents. Boo Khaloom's +were produced in a large shawl, and were carried unopened to the +presence. The glimpse which the English obtained of the sultan, was +but a faint one, through the lattice work of his pavilion, +sufficient, however, to show that his turban was larger than any of +his subjects, and that his face from the nose downwards was +completely covered. A little to the left, and nearly in front of the +sultan, was an extempore declaimer, shouting forth praises of his +master, with his pedigree; near him was one who bore the long wooden +frumfrum, on which ever and anon he blew a blast loud and unmusical. +Nothing could be more ridiculous than the appearance of these people, +squatting under the weight and magnitude of their bellies, while the +thin legs that appeared underneath, but ill accorded with the bulk of +the other parts. + +This was all that was ever seen of the sultan of Bornou. The party +then set out for Kouka, passing on their way through Angornou, the +largest city in the kingdom, containing at least thirty thousand +inhabitants. + +During his residence at Kouka and Angornou, Major Denham frequently +attended the markets, where besides the proper Bornouese, he saw the +Shouass, an Arab tribe, who are the chief breeders of cattle; the +Kanemboos from the north, with their hair neatly and tastefully +plaited, and the Musgow, a southern clan of the most savage aspect. +A loose robe or shirt of the cotton cloth of the country, often +finely and beautifully dyed, was the universal dress, and high rank +was indicated by six or seven of these, worn one above another. +Ornament was studied chiefly in plaiting the hair, in attaching to it +strings of brass or silver beads, in inserting large pieces of amber +or coral into the nose, the ear, and the lip, and when to these was +added a face, streaming with oil, the Bornouese belle was fully +equipped for conquest. Thus adorned, the wife or daughter of a rich +Shouaa might be seen entering the market in full style, bestriding an +ox, which she managed dexterously, by a leathern thong passed through +the nose, and whose unwieldy bulk she even contrived to torture into +something like capering and curvetting. Angornou is the chief market, +and the crowd there is sometimes immense, amounting to eighty or one +hundred thousand individuals. All the produce of the country is +bought and sold in open market, for shops and warehouses do not enter +into the system of African traffic. + +Bornou taken altogether forms an extensive plain, stretching two +hundred miles along the western shore of Lake Tchad, and nearly the +same distance inland. This sea periodically changes its bed in a +singular manner. During the rains, when its tributary rivers pour in +thrice the usual quantity of water, it inundates an extensive tract, +from which it retires in the dry season. This space, then overgrown +with dense underwood, and with grass double the height of a man, +contains a motley assemblage of wild beasts--lions, panthers, hyenas, +elephants, and serpents of extraordinary form and bulk. These +monsters, while undisturbed in this mighty den, remain tranquil, or +war only with each other, but when the lake swells, and its waters +rush in, they of necessity seek refuge among the abodes of men, to +whom they prove the most dreadful scourge. Not only the cattle but +the slaves attending the grain, often fall victims; they even rush in +large bodies into the towns. The fields beyond the reach of this +annual inundation are very fertile, and land may be had in any +quantity, by him who has slaves to cultivate it. This service is +performed by females from Musgow, who, aiding their native ugliness, +by the insertion of a large piece of silver into the upper lip, which +throws it entirely out of shape, are estimated according to the +quantity of hard work which they can execute. The processes of +agriculture are extremely simple. Their only fine manufacture is that +of tobes, or vestments of cotton skilfully woven and beautifully +dyed, but still not equal to those of Soudan. + +The Bornouese are complete negroes both in form and feature; they are +ugly, simple, and good natured, but destitute of all intellectual +culture. Only a few of the great fighis or doctors, of whom the sheik +was one, can read the Koran. "A great writer" is held in still higher +estimation than with us, but his compositions consist only of words +written on scraps of paper, to be enclosed in cases, and worn as +amulets. They are then supposed to defend their possessor against +every danger, to act as charms to destroy his enemies, and to be the +main instrument in the cure of all diseases. For this last purpose +they are assisted only by a few simple applications, yet the Bornou +practice is said to be very successful, either through the power of +imagination, or owing to the excellence of their constitutions. In +the absence of all refined pleasure, various rude sports are pursued +with eagerness, and almost with fury. The most favourite is +wrestling, which the chiefs do not practise in person, but train +their slaves to it as our jockeys do game cocks, taking the same +pride in their prowess and victory. Nations are often pitched against +each other; the Musgowy and the Bughami being the most powerful. Many +of them are extremely handsome, and of gigantic size, and hence their +contests are truly terrific. Their masters loudly cheer them on, +offering high premiums for victory, and sometimes threatening instant +death in case of defeat. They place their trust not in science, but +in main strength and rapid movements. Occasionally, the wrestler, +eluding his adversary's vigilance, seizes him by the thigh, lifts him +into the air, and dashes him against the ground. When the match is +decided, the victor is greeted with loud plaudits by the spectators, +some of whom even testify their admiration by throwing to him +presents of fine cloth. He then kneels before his master, who not +unfrequently bestows upon him a robe worth thirty or forty dollars, +taken perhaps from his own person. Death or maiming is no unfrequent +result of these encounters. The ladies even of rank engage in another +very odd species of contest. Placing themselves back to back, they +cause certain parts to strike together with the most violent +collision, when she who maintains her equilibrium, while the other +lies stretched upon the ground, is proclaimed victor with loud +cheers. In this conflict the girdle of beads worn by the more opulent +females, very frequently bursts, when these ornaments are seen flying +about in every direction. To these recreations is added gaming, +always the rage of uncultivated minds. Their favourite game is one +rudely played with beans, by means of holes made in the sand. + +Boo Khaloom having despatched his affairs in Bornou, wished to turn +his journey to some farther account, and proposed an expedition into +the more wealthy and commercial region of Houssa or Soudan, but the +eager wishes of his follower pointed to a different object. They +called upon him to lead them into the mountains of Mandara, in the +south, to attack a village of the Kerdies or unbelievers, and carry +off the people as slaves to Fezzan. He long stood out against this +nefarious proposal, but the sheik who also had his own views, took +part against him; even his own brother joined the malcontents, and at +length there appeared no other mode in which he could return with +equal credit and profit. Influenced by these inducements, he suffered +his better judgement to be overpowered, and determined to conduct his +troops upon this perilous and guilty excursion. Major Denham allowed +his zeal for discovery to overcome other considerations, and +contrived, notwithstanding the prohibition of the sheik, to be one of +the party. They were accompanied by Barca Gana, the principal +general, a negro of huge strength and great courage, along with other +warriors, and a large troop of Bournouse cavalry. These last are a +fine military body in point of external appearance. Their persons are +covered with iron plate and mail, and they manage with surprising +dexterity their little active steeds, which are also supplied with +defensive armour. They have one fault only, but it is a serious one, +they cannot stand the shock of an enemy. While the contest continues +doubtful, they hover round as spectators, ready, should the tide turn +against them, to spur on their coursers to a rapid flight; but if +they see their friends victorious, and the enemy turning their backs, +they come forward and display no small vigour in pursuit and plunder. + +The road to Mandara formed a continual ascent through a fertile +country, which contained some populous towns. The path being quite +overgrown with thick and prickly underwood, twelve pioneers went +forward with long poles, opening a track, pushing back the branches, +and giving warning to beware of holes. These operations they +accompanied with loud praises of Barca Gana, calling out, "Who is in +battle like the rolling of thunder? Barca Gana. In battle, who +spreads terror around him like the buffalo in his rage? Barca Gana." +Even the chiefs on this expedition carried no provisions, except a +paste of rice, flour, and honey, with which they contented +themselves, unless when sheep could be procured; in which case, half +the animal, roasted over a frame-work of wood, was placed on the +table, and the sharpest dagger present was employed in cutting it +into large pieces, to be eaten without bread or salt. At length they +approached Mora, the capital of Mandara. This was another kingdom, +which the energy of its present sultan had rescued from the yoke of +the Fellata empire; and the strong position of its capital, enclosed +by lofty ridges of hills, had enabled it to defy repeated attacks. It +consists of a fine plain, bordered on the south by an immense and +almost interminable range of mountains. The eminences directly in +front were not quite so lofty as the hills of Cumberland, but bold, +rocky, and precipitous, and distant summits appeared towering much +higher, and shooting up a line of sharp pinnacles, resembling the +Needles of Mont Blanc. It was reported that two months were required +to cross their greatest breadth, and reach the other side, where they +rose ten times higher, and were called large _moon_ mountains. They +there overlooked the plain of Adamowa, through which a great river, +that has erroneously been supposed to be the Quorra or Niger, was +said to flow from the westward. The hills immediately in view were +thickly clustered with villages perched on their sides, and even on +their tops, and were distinctly seen from the plain of Mandara. They +were occupied by half-savage tribes, whom the ferocious bigotry of +the nations in the low country branded as pagans, and whom they +claimed a right to plunder, seize, and drive in crowds for sale to +the markets of Fezzan and Bornou. The fires, which were visible, in +the different nests of these unfortunate beings, threw a glare upon +the bold rocks and blunt promontories of granite by which they were +surrounded, and produced a picturesque and somewhat awful appearance. +A baleful joy beamed on the visage of the Arabs, as they eyed these +abodes of their future victims, whom they already fancied themselves +driving in bands across the desert. "A Kerdy village to plunder!" was +all their cry, and Boo Khaloom doubted not that he would be able to +gratify their wishes. Their common fear of the Fellatas had united +the sultan of Mandara in close alliance with the sheik, to whom he +had lately married his daughter; and the nuptials had been celebrated +by a great slave-hunt amongst the mountains, when, after a dreadful +struggle, three thousand captives, by their tears and bondage, +furnished out the materials of a magnificent marriage festival. + +The expedition obtained a reception quite as favourable as had been +expected. In approaching the capital, they were met by the sultan, +with five hundred Mandara horse, who, charging full speed, wheeled +round them with the same threatening movements which had been +exhibited at Bornou. The horses were of a superior breed, most +skilfully managed, and covered with cloths of various colours, as +well as with skins of the leopard and tiger-cat. This cavalry, of +course, made a most brilliant appearance; but Major Denham did not +yet know that their valour was exactly on a level with that of their +Bornou allies. The party were then escorted to the capital, amid the +music of long pipes, like clarionets, and of two immense trumpets. +They were introduced next day. The mode of approaching the royal +residence is to gallop up to the gate with a furious speed, which +often causes fatal accidents, and on this occasion a man was ridden +down and killed on the spot. The sultan was found in a dark-blue +tent, sitting on a mud bench, surrounded by about two hundred +attendants, handsomely arrayed in silk and cotton robes. He was an +intelligent little man, about fifty years old, with a beard dyed +sky-blue. Courteous salutations were exchanged, during which he +steadily eyed Major Denham, concerning whom he at last inquired, and +the traveller was advantageously introduced, as belonging to a +powerful distant nation, allies of the bashaw of Tripoli. At last, +however, came the fatal question,--"Is he moslem?" _"La! la!"_ (No, +no.) "What: has the great bashaw caffre friends?" Every eye was +instantly averted; the sun of Major Denham's favour was set, and he +was never again allowed to enter the palace. + +The bigotry of this court seems to have surpassed even the usual +bitterness of the African tribes, and our traveller had to undergo a +regular persecution, carried on especially by Malem Chadily, the +leading fighi of the court. As Major Denham was showing to the +admiring chiefs, the mode of writing with a pencil, and effacing it +with Indian rubber; Malem wrote some words of the Koran with such +force, that their traces could not be wholly removed. He then +exclaimed with triumph, "They are the words of God delivered to his +prophet. I defy you to erase them." The major was then called upon to +acknowledge this great miracle, and as his countenance still +expressed incredulity, he was viewed with looks of such mingled +contempt and indignation, as induced him to retire. Malem, however, +again assailed him with the assurance that this was only one of the +many miracles which he could show, as wrought by the Koran, imploring +him to turn, and paradise would be his, otherwise nothing could save +him from eternal fire. "Oh!" said he, "while sitting in the third +heaven, I shall see you in the midst of the flames, crying out to +your friend Barca Gana and myself for a drop of water, but the gulf +will be between us." His tears then flowed profusely. Major Denham, +taking the general aside, entreated to be relieved from this +incessant persecution, but Gana assured him that the fighi was a +great and holy man, to whom he ought to listen. He then held out not +only paradise, but honours, slaves, and wives of the first families, +as gifts to be lavished on him by the sheik, if he would renounce his +unbelief. Major Denham asked the commander what would be thought of +himself, if he should go to England and turn Christian. "God forbid," +exclaimed he, "but how can you compare our faiths? mine would lead +you to paradise, while yours would bring me to hell. Not a word +more." Nothing appears to have annoyed the stranger more than to be +told, that he was of the same faith with the Kerdies or savages, +little distinction being made between any who denied the Koran. After +a long discussion of this question, he thought the validity of his +reasoning would be admitted, when he could point to a party of those +wretches devouring a dead horse, and appealed to Boo Khaloom if he +had ever seen the English do the same; but to this, which after all +was not a very deep theological argument, the Arab replied, "I know +they eat the flesh of swine, and God knows, that is worse." "Grant me +patience," exclaimed the major to himself, "this is almost too much +to bear and to remain silent." + +The unfortunate Kerdies, from the moment they saw Arab tents in the +valley of Mandara, knew the dreadful calamity which awaited them. To +avert it and to propitiate the sultan, numerous parlies came down +with presents of honey, asses, and slaves. Finally appeared the +Musgow, a more distant and savage race, mounted on small fiery +steeds, covered only with the skin of a goat or leopard, and with +necklaces made of the teeth of their enemies. They threw themselves +at the feet of the sultan, casting sand on their heads, and uttering +the most piteous cries. The monarch apparently moved by these gifts +and entreaties, began to intimate to Boo Khaloom his hopes, that +these savages might by gentle means be reclaimed, and led to the true +faith. These hopes were held by the latter in the utmost derision, +and he privately assured Major Denham, that nothing would more annoy +the devout Mussulmans, than to see them fulfilled, whereby he must +have forfeited all right to drive these unhappy creatures in crowds, +to the markets of Soudan and Bornou. In fact, both the sultan and the +sheik had a much deeper aim. Every effort was used to induce Boo +Khaloom to engage in the attack of some strong Fellata posts, by +which the country was hemmed in, and as the two monarchs viewed the +Arabs with extreme jealousy, it was strongly suspected that their +defeat would not have been regarded as a public calamity. The royal +councils were secret and profound, and it was not known what +influences worked upon Boo Khaloom. On this occasion, however, he was +mastered by his evil genius, and consented to the proposed attack, +but as he came out and ordered his troops to prepare for marching, +his countenance bore such marks of trouble, that Major Denham asked, +if all went well, to which he Hurriedly answered, "Please God." +The Arabs, however, who at all events expected plunder, proceeded +with alacrity. + +The expedition set out on the following morning, and after passing +through a beautiful plain, began to penetrate the mighty chain of +mountains, which form the southern border of the kingdom. Alpine +heights rising around them in rugged magnificence, and gigantic +grandeur, presented scenery which our traveller had never seen +surpassed. The passes of Hairey and of Horza, amid a superb +amphitheatre of hills, closely shut in by overhanging cliffs, more +than two thousand feet high, were truly striking. Here for the first +time in Africa, did nature appear to the English to rival in the +production of vegetable life. The trees were covered with luxuriant +and bright green foliage, and their trunks were hidden by a crowd of +parasitical plants, whose aromatic blossoms perfumed the air. There +was also an abundance of animal life of a less agreeable description. +Three scorpions were killed in the tent, and a fierce but beautiful +panther, more than eight feet long, just as he had gorged himself by +sucking the blood of a newly-killed negro, was attacked and speared. +The sultan and Barca Gana were attended by a considerable body of +Bornou and Mandara cavalry, whose brilliant armour, martial aspect, +and skilful horsemanship, gave confidence to the European officer, +who had not seen them put to the proof. + +It was the third day, when the expedition came in view of the Fellata +town of Dirkulla. The Arabs, supported by Barca Gana, and about one +hundred spearmen marched instantly to the attack, and carried first +that place, and then a smaller town beyond it, killing all who had +not time to escape. The enemy, however, then entrenched themselves in +a third and stronger position, called Musfeia, enclosed by high +hills, and fortified in front by numerous swamps and palisades. This +was likewise attacked and all its defences forced. The guns of the +Arabs spread terror, while Barca Gana threw eight spears with his own +hand, every one of which took effect. It was thought, that had the +two bodies of cavalry, made even a show of advancing, the victory +would have been at once decided, but Major Denham was much surprised +to see those puissant warriors, keeping carefully under cover, behind +a hill, on the opposite side of the stream, where not an arrow could +reach them. The Fellatas seeing that their antagonists were only a +handful, rallied on the top of the hills, were joined by new troops, +and turned round. Their women behind cheered them on, continually +supplied fresh arrows, and rolled down fragments of rock on the +assailants. These arrows were tipped with poison, and wherever they +pierced the body, in a few hours became black, blood gushed from +every orifice, and the victim expired in agony. The condition of the +Arabs soon became alarming, scarcely a man was left unhurt, and their +horses were dying under them. Boo Khaloom and his charger were both +wounded with poisoned arrows. As soon as the Fellatas saw the Arabs +waver, they dashed in with their horse, at the sight of which all the +heroic squadrons of Bornou and Mandara put spurs to their steeds, the +sultan at their head, and the whole became one mass of confused and +tumultuous flight. Major Denham saw too late the peril into which he +had inconsiderately plunged. His horse, wounded in to the shoulder, +could scarcely support his weight, but the cries of the pursuing +Fellatas urged him forward. At last the animal fell twice, and the +second time threw him against a tree, then, frightened by the noise +behind, started up and ran off. The Fellatas were instantly up, when +four of his companions were stabbed beside him, uttering the most +frightful cries. He himself fully expected the same fate, but happily +his clothes formed a valuable booty, through which the savages were +loath to run their spears. After inflicting some slight wounds, +therefore, they stripped him to the skin, and forthwith began to +quarrel about the plunder. While they were thus busied, he contrived +to slip away, and though hotly pursued, and nearly overtaken, +succeeded in reaching a mountain stream, gliding at the bottom of a +deep and precipitous ravine. Here he had snatched the young branches +issuing from the stump of a large over-hanging tree, in order to let +himself down into the water, when beneath his hand, a large _siffa,_ +the most dangerous serpent in this country, rose from its coil, as in +the very act of darting upon him. Struck with horror, Major Denham +lost all recollection, and fell headlong into the water, but the +shock revived him, and with three strokes of his arm, he reached the +opposite bank, and felt himself for the moment in safety. Running +forward, he was delighted to see his friends Barca Gana and Boo +Khaloom, but amidst the cheers with which they were endeavouring to +rally their troops, and the cries of those who were falling under the +Fellata spears, he could not for some time make himself heard. +Then Maramy, a negro appointed by the sheik to attend upon him, rode +up and took him on his own horse. Boo Khaloom ordered a bornouse to +be thrown over the major--very seasonably, for the burning sun had +began to blister his naked body. Suddenly, however, Maramy called +out, "See! see! Boo Khaloom is dead," and that spirited chief, +overpowered by the wound of a poisoned arrow, dropped from his horse +and spoke no more. The others now only thought of pressing their +flight, and soon reached a stream, where they refreshed themselves by +copious draughts, and a halt was made to collect the stragglers. +Major Denham here fell into a swoon, during which, as he afterwards +learned, Maramy complained that the jaded horse could scarcely carry +the stranger forward, when Barca Gana said, "By the head of the +prophet! believers enough have breathed their last to-day, why should +we concern ourselves about a Christian's death." Malem Chadily, +however, so bitter as a theological opponent, showed now the +influence of a milder spirit, and said, "No, God has preserved him; +let us not abandon him;" and Maramy declared, his heart told him what +to do. They therefore moved on slowly till about midnight, when they +passed the Mandara frontier, in a state of severe suffering, but the +major met with much kindness from a dethroned prince, Mai Meagamy, +who seeing his wounds festering under the rough woollen cloak, which +formed his only covering, took off his own trousers and gave them to +him. + +The Arabs lost forty-five of their number, besides their chief; the +survivors were in a miserable plight, most of them wounded, some +mortally, and all deprived of their camels, and the rest of their +property. Renouncing their pride, they were obliged to supplicate +from Barca Gana a handful of corn to keep them from starving. The +sultan of Mandara, in whose cause they had suffered, treated them +with the utmost contumely, which, perhaps, they might deserve, but +certainly not from him. Deep sorrow was afterwards felt in Fezzan, +when they arrived in this deplorable condition, and reported the fall +of their chief, who was there almost idolized. A national song was +composed on the occasion, which the following extract will show to be +marked by great depth of feeling, and not devoid of poetical +beauty:-- + +"Oh trust not to the gun and the sword: the spear of the unbeliever +prevails! + +"Boo Khaloom, the good and the brave, has fallen! Fallen has he in +his might! Who shall now be safe? Even as the moon amongst the little +stars, so was Boo Khaloom amongst men! Where shall Fezzan now look +for her protector? Men hang their heads in sorrow, while women wring +their hands, rending the air with their cries! As a shepherd is to +his flock, so was Boo Khaloom to Fezzan. + +"Give him songs! Give him music! What words can equal his praise! His +heart was as large as the desert! His coffers were like the rich +overflowings from the udder of the she camel, comforting and +nourishing those around him. + +"Even as the flowers without rain perish in the field, so will the +Fezzaners droop; for Boo Khaloom returns no more. + +"His body lies in the land of the heathen! the poisoned arrow of the +unbeliever prevails! + +"Oh trust not to the gun and the sword! The spear of the heathen +conquers! Boo Khaloom, the good and the brave, has fallen! Who shall +now be safe?" + +The sheik of Bornou was considerably mortified by the result of this +expedition, and the miserable figure made by his troops, though he +sought to throw the chief blame on the Mandara part of the armament. +He now invited the major to accompany an expedition against the +Mungas, a rebel tribe on his outer border, on which occasion he was +to employ his native band of Kanemboo spearmen, who, he trusted, +would redeem the military reputation of the monarchy. Major Denham +was always ready to go wherever he had a chance of seeing the manners +and scenery of Africa. The sheik took the field, attended by his +armour-bearer, his drummer, fantastically dressed in a straw hat with +ostrich feathers, and followed by-three wives, whose heads and +persons were wrapped up in brown silk robes, and each led by a +eunuch. He was preceded by five green and red flags, on each of which +were extracts from the Koran, written in letters of gold. Etiquette +even required that the sultan should follow with his unwieldy pomp, +having a harem, and attendance much more numerous; while frumfrums, +or wooden trumpets, were continually sounding before him. This +monarch is too distinguished to fight in person; but his guards, the +swollen and overloaded figures formerly described, enveloped in +multiplied folds, and groaning beneath the weight of ponderous +amulets, produced themselves as warriors, though manifestly unfit to +face any real danger. + +The route lay along the banks of the river Yeou, called also +Gambarou, through a country naturally fertile and delightful, but +presenting a dismal picture of the desolation occasioned by African +warfare. The expedition passed through upwards of thirty towns, +completely destroyed by the Fellatas in their last inroad, and of +which all the inhabitants had been either killed or carried into +slavery. These fine plains were now overgrown with forests and +thickets, in which grew tamarind and other trees, producing delicate +fruits, while large bands of monkeys, called by the Arabs "enchanted +men," filled the woods with their cries. Here, too, was found old +Birnie, the ancient but now desolate capital, evidently much larger +than any of the present cities, covering five or six miles with its +ruins. They passed also Gambarou, formerly the favourite residence of +the sultans, where the remains of a palace and two mosques gave an +idea of civilization superior to any thing that had yet been seen in +interior Africa. There were left in this country only small detached +villages, the inhabitants of which remained fixed to them by local +attachment, in spite of constant predatory inroads of the Tuaricks, +who carried off their friends, their children, and cattle. They have +recourse to one mode of defence, which consists in digging a number +of _blaquas,_ or large pits; these they cover with a false surface of +sods and grass, into which the Tuarick with his horse plunges before +he is aware, and is received at the bottom upon sharp-pointed stakes, +which often kill both on the spot. Unluckily, harmless travellers are +equally liable to fall into these living graves. Major Denham was +petrified with horror, to find how near he had approached to several +of them; indeed one of his servants stepped upon the deceitful +covering, and was saved only by an almost miraculous spring. It seems +wonderful that the sheik should not have endeavoured to restore some +kind of security to this portion of his subjects, and to re-people +those fine but deserted regions. + +The troops that had been seen hastening in parties to the scene of +action were mustered at Kobshary, a town which the Mungas had nearly +destroyed. The sheik made a review of his favourite forces, the +Kanemboo spearmen, nine thousand strong. They were really a very +savage and military-looking host, entirely naked, except a girdle of +goat-skin, with the hair hanging down, and a piece of cloth wrapped +round the head. They carried large wooden shields, shaped like a +gothic window, with which they warded off the arrows of the enemy, +while they pressed forward to attack with their own spears. Unlike +almost all other barbarous armies, they kept a regular night-watch, +passing the cry every half-hour along the line, and, at any alarm, +raising a united yell, which was truly frightful. At the review they +passed in tribes before the sheik, to whom they showed the most +enthusiastic attachment, kneeling on the ground, and kissing his +feet. The Mungas again were described as terrible antagonists, +hardened by conflicts with the Tuaricks, fighting on foot with +poisoned arrows, longer and more deadly than those of the Fellatas. + +The sultan, however, contemplated other means of securing success, +placing his main reliance on his powers as a mohammedan doctor and +writer. Three successive nights were spent in inscribing upon little +scraps of paper figures or words, destined to exercise a magical +influence upon the rebel host, and their effect was heightened by the +display of sky-rockets, supplied by Major Denham. Tidings of his +being thus employed were conveyed to the camp, when the Mungas, stout +and fierce warriors, who never shrunk from an enemy, yielded to the +power of superstition, and felt all their strength withered. It +seemed to them that their arrows were blunted, their quivers broken, +their hearts struck with sickness and fear, in short, that to oppose +a sheik of the Koran, who could accomplish such wonders, was alike +vain and impious. They came in by hundreds, bowing themselves to the +ground, and casting sand on their heads, in token of the most abject +submission. At length, Malem Fanamy, the leader of the rebellion, saw +that resistance was hopeless. After vain overtures of conditional +submission, he appeared in person, mounted on a white horse, with one +thousand followers. He was clothed in rags, and having fallen +prostrate, was about to pour sand on his head, when the sultan, +instead of permitting this humiliation, caused eight robes of fine +cotton cloth, one after another, to be thrown over him, and his head +to be wrapped in Egyptian turbans till it was swelled to six times +its natural size, and no longer resembled any thing human. By such +signal honours the sheik gained the hearts of those whom his pen had +subdued, and this wise policy enabled him not only to overcome the +resistance of this formidable tribe, but to convert them into +supporters and bulwarks of his power. + + + +CHAPTER XXIII. + +Major Denham, who always sought, with laudable zeal, to penetrate +into every corner of Africa, now found his way in another direction. +He had heard much of the Shary, a great river flowing into lake +Tchad, on whose banks the kingdom of Loggun was situated. After +several delays, he set out on the 23d January 1824, in company with +Mr. Toole, a spirited young volunteer, who, journeying by way of +Tripoli and Mourzouk, had thence crossed the desert to join him. +The travellers passed Angornou and Angola, and arrived at Showy, +where they saw the river, which really proved to be a magnificent +stream, fully half a mile broad, and flowing at the rate of two or +three miles an hour. They descended it through a succession of noble +reaches, bordered with fine woods and a profusion of variously tinted +and aromatic plants. At length, it opened into the wide expanse of +the Tchad, after viewing which, they again ascended, and reached the +capital of Loggun, beneath whose high walls the river was seen +flowing in majestic beauty. Major Denham entered, and found a +handsome city, with a street as wide as Pall-Mall, and bordered by +large dwellings, having spacious areas in front. Having proceeded to +the palace, for the purpose of visiting the sovereign, he was led +through several dark rooms into a wide and crowded court, at one end +of which a lattice opened, and showed a pile of silk robes, stretched +on a carpet, amid which two eyes became gradually visible; this was +the sultan. On his appearance, there arose a tumult of horns and +frumfrums, while all the attendants threw themselves prostrate, +casting sand on their heads. In a voice, which the court fashion of +Loggun required to be scarcely audible, the monarch inquired Major +Denham's object in coming to this country, observing that, if it was +to purchase handsome female slaves, he need go no further, since he +himself had hundreds, who could be afforded at a very easy rate. This +overture was rejected on other grounds than the price; yet, +notwithstanding so decided a proof of barbarism, the Loggunese were +found to be a people more advanced in the arts of peace than any +hitherto seen in Africa. By a studied neutrality they avoided +involving themselves in the dreadful wars, which had desolated the +neighbouring countries; manufacturing industry was honoured, and the +cloths woven here were superior to those of Bornou, being finely dyed +with indigo, and beautifully glazed. There was even a current coin, +made of iron, somewhat in the form of a horse-shoe, and rude as this +was, none of their neighbours possessed any thing similar. The ladies +were handsome, intelligent, and of a lively air and carriage; but, +besides pushing their frankness to excess, their general demeanour +was by no means scrupulous. They used, in particular, the utmost +diligence in stealing from Major Denham's person every thing that +could be reached, even searching the pockets of his trousers, and +when detected, only laughed, and called to each other, how sharp he +was. But the darkest feature of savage life was disclosed, when the +sultan and his son each sent to solicit poison "that would not lie," +to be used against each other. The latter even accompanied the +request with a bribe of three lovely black damsels, and ridiculed the +horror which was expressed at the proposal. + +The Loggunese live in a country abounding in grain and cattle, and +diversified with forests of lofty acacias, and many beautiful shrubs. +Its chief scourge consists in the millions of tormenting insects, +which fill the atmosphere, making it scarcely possible to go into the +open air at mid-day, without being thrown into a fever, indeed, +children have been killed by their stings. The natives build one +house within another to protect themselves against this scourge, +while some kindle a large fire of wet straw, and sit in the smoke; +but this remedy seems worse than the evil it is meant to obviate. + +Major Denham was much distressed on this journey by the death of his +companion, Mr. Toole; and he could no longer delay his return, when +he learnt that the Begharmis, with a large army, were crossing the +Shary to attack Bornou. Soon after his arrival at Kouka, the sheik +led out his troops, which he mustered on the plain of Angola, and was +there furiously attacked by five thousand Begharmis, led by two +hundred chiefs. The Begharmi cavalry are stout, fierce-looking men, +and both riders and horses still more thoroughly cased in mail than +those of Bornou; but their courage, when brought to the proof, is +nearly on a level. The sheik encountered them with his Kanemboo +spearmen and a small band of musketeers, when, after a short +conflict, the whole of this mighty host was thrown into the most +disorderly flight; even the Bornou cavalry joined in the pursuit. +Seven sons of the sultan, and almost all the chiefs fell; two hundred +of their favourite wives were taken, many of whom were of exquisite +beauty. + +Mr. Tyrwhit, a gentleman sent out by government to strengthen the +party, arrived on the 20th May, and on the 22nd delivered to the +sheik a number of presents, which were received with the highest +satisfaction. In company with this gentleman, Major Denham, eager to +explore Africa, still further took advantage of another expedition, +undertaken against a tribe of Shouaa Arabs, distinguished by the name +of La Sala, a race of amphibious shepherds, who inhabit certain +islands along the south-eastern shores of the Tchad. These spots +afford rich pasture; while the water is so shallow, that, by knowing +the channels, the natives can ride without difficulty from one island +to the other. Barca Gana led one thousand men on this expedition, and +was joined by four hundred of a Shouaa tribe, called Dugganahs, +enemies to the La Salas. These allies presented human nature under a +more pleasing aspect than it had yet been seen in any part of central +Africa. They despise the negro nations, and all who live in houses, +and still more in cities, while they themselves reside in tents of +skin, in circular camps, which they move periodically from place to +place. They live in simple plenty on the produce of their flocks and +herds, celebrate their joys and sorrows in extemporary poetry, and +seem to be united by the strongest ties of domestic affection. Tahr, +their chief, having closely examined our traveller, as to the motives +of his journey, said, "And have you been three years from your home? +Are not your eyes dimmed with straining to the north, where all your +thoughts must ever be? If my eyes do not see the wife and children of +my heart for ten days, they are flowing with tears, when they should +be closed in sleep." On taking leave, Tahr's parting wish was, "May +you die at your own tents, and in the arms of your wife and family." +This chief might have sitten for the picture of a patriarch; his +fine, serious, expressive countenance, large features, and long bushy +beard, afforded a favourable specimen of his tribe. + +The united forces now marched to the shores of the lake, and began to +reconnoitre the islands on which the Shouaas, with their cattle and +cavalry, were stationed; but the experienced eye of Barca Gana soon +discerned, that the channel, though shallow, was full of holes, and +had a muddy deceitful appearance. He proposed therefore to delay the +attack, till a resolute band of Kanemboo spearmen should arrive and +lead the way. The lowing, however, of the numerous herds, and the +bleating of the flocks on the green islands, which lay before them, +excited in the troops a degree of hunger, as well as of military +ardour, that was quite irrepressible. They called out, "What! be so +near them, and not eat them?--No, no, let us on; this night, these +flocks and women shall be ours." Barca Gana suffered himself to be +hurried away, and plunged in amongst the foremost. Soon, however, the +troops began to sink into the holes, or stick in the mud; their guns +and powder were wetted, and became useless; while the enemy, who knew +every step, and could ride through the water as quickly as on land, +at once charged the invaders in front, and sent round a detachment to +take them in the rear. The assault was accordingly soon changed into +a disgraceful flight, in which those who had been the loudest in +urging to this rash onset set the example. Barca Gana, who had +boasted himself invulnerable, was deeply wounded through his coat of +mail and four cotton tobes, and with difficulty rescued by his chiefs +from five La Sala horsemen, who had vowed his death. The army +returned to their quarters in disappointment and dismay, and with a +severe loss. During the whole night, the Dugganah women were heard +bewailing their husbands, who had fallen, in dirges composed for the +occasion, and with plaintive notes, which could not be listened to +without the deepest sympathy. Major Denham was deterred by this +disaster from making any further attempt to penetrate to the eastern +shores of the Tchad. + +The Beddoomahs are another tribe who inhabit extensive and rugged +islands, in the interior of the lake, amid its deep waters, which +they navigate with nearly a thousand large boats. They neither +cultivate the ground, nor rear flocks and herds, while their manners +appeared to Major Denham, the rudest and most savage observed even +among Africans--the Musgows always excepted. They have adopted as a +religious creed, that God having withheld from them corn and cattle, +which the nations around enjoy, has given in their stead strength and +courage, to be employed in taking these good things from all in whose +possession they may be found. To this belief they act up in the most +devout manner, spreading terror and desolation over all the shores of +this inland sea, no part of which, even in the immediate vicinity of +the great capitals, is for a moment secure from their ravages. The +most powerful and warlike of the Bornou sovereigns, finding among +their subjects neither the requisite skill nor experience in +navigation, make no attempt to cope with the Biddoomahs on these +watery domains, and thus give up the lake to their undisputed sway. + +While Major Denham was thus traversing in every direction Bornou, and +the surrounding countries, Lieutenant Clapperton and Dr. Oudney were +proceeding through Houssa, by a route less varied and hazardous +indeed, but disclosing forms both of nature and society fully as +interesting. They departed from Kouka on the 14th December 1823, and +passing the site of old Birnie, found the banks of the Yeou fertile, +and diversified with towns and villages. + +On entering Katagum, the most easterly Fellata province, they +observed a superior style of culture; two crops of wheat being raised +in one season by irrigation, and the grain stored in covered sheds, +elevated from the ground on posts. The country to the south was +covered with extensive swamps and mountains, tenanted by rude and +pagan tribes, who furnish to the faithful an inexhaustible supply of +slaves. The practice of travelling with a caravan was found very +advantageous, from the help it afforded, as well as from the good +reports spread by the merchants, respecting their European +companions. In Bornou, these last had been viewed with almost +unmingled horror, and for having eaten their bread under the +extremest necessity, a man had his testimony rejected in a court of +justice. Some young Bornouese ladies, who accosted Major Denham, +having ventured to say a word in his favour, an attendant matron +exclaimed, "Be silent, he is an uncircumcised kafir--neither washes +nor prays, eats pork, and will go to hell." Upon which the others +screamed, and ran off. But in Houssa, this horror was not so great, +and was mingled with the belief, that they possessed supernatural +powers. Not only did the sick come in crowds expecting to be cured, +but the ladies solicited amulets to restore their beauty, to preserve +the affections of their lovers, and even to destroy a hated rival. +The son of the governor of Kano, having called upon Clapperton, +stated it was the conviction of the whole city and his own, that the +English had the power of converting men into asses, goats, and +monkeys, and likewise that by reading in his book, he could at any +time commute a handful of earth into gold. The traveller having +declared to him the difficulty he often found in procuring both asses +and gold, induced him with trembling hands to taste a cup of tea, +when he became more composed, and made a sort of recantation of his +errors. + +As the caravan proceeded they met many other travellers, and found +sitting along the road, numerous females selling potatoes, beans, +bits of roasted meat, and water with an infusion of gussub-grains; +and when they stopped at any place for the night, the people crowded +in such numbers as to form a little fair. Clapperton attracted the +notice of many of the Fellata ladies, who, after examining him +closely, declared, that had he only been less white, his external +appearance might have merited approbation. + +The travellers passed through Sansan, a great market place, divided +into three distinct towns, and Katagum, the strongly fortified +capital of the province, containing about eight thousand inhabitants. +Thence they proceeded to Murmur, where the severe illness under which +Dr. Oudney had long laboured, came to a crisis. Though now in the +last stage of consumption, he insisted on continuing his journey and +with the aid of his servant had been supported to his camel, when +Clapperton, seeing the ghastliness of death on his countenance, +insisted on replacing him in his tent, where, soon after, without a +groan, he breathed his last. His companion caused him to be buried +with the honours of the country. The body was washed, wrapped in +turban shawls, and a wall of clay built round the grave, to protect +it from wild beasts; two sheep were also killed and distributed +amongst the poor. + +Katungwa, the first town of Houssa proper, and the next on the route, +is situated in a country well enclosed, and under high cultivation. +To the south is an extensive range of rocky hills, amid which is the +town of Zangeia, with its buildings picturesquely scattered over +masses of rocks. Clapperton passed also Girkwa, near a river of the +same name, which appears to come from these hills, and to fall into +the Yeou. + +Two days after, he entered Kano, the Ghana of Edrisi, and which is +now, as it was six hundred years ago, the chief commercial city of +Houssa, and of all central Africa. Yet it disappointed our traveller +on his first entry, and for a quarter of a mile scarcely appeared a +city at all. Even in its more crowded quarters, the houses rose +generally in clusters, separated by stagnant pools. The inhabited +part on the whole, did not comprise more than a fourth of the space +enclosed by the walls, the rest consisted of fields, gardens, and +swamps; however, as the whole circuit is fifteen miles, there is +space for a population moderately estimated, to be between thirty or +forty thousand. The market is held on a neck of land, between two +swamps, by which, during the rains, it is entirely overflowed, but in +the dry season it is covered with sheds of bamboo, arranged into +regular streets. Different quarters are allowed for the several kinds +of goods; some for cattle, others for vegetables, while fruits of +various descriptions, so much neglected in Bornou, are here displayed +in profusion. The fine cotton fabrics of the country are sold either +in webs, or in what are called tobes and Turkadees, with rich silken +strips or borders ready to be added. Amongst the favourite articles +are goora or kolla nuts, which are called African coffee, being +supposed to give a peculiar relish to the water drunk after them; and +crude antimony, with the black tint of which every eyebrow in Houssa +must be dyed. The Arabs also dispose here of sundry commodities that +have become obsolete in the north; the cast-off dresses of the +mamelukes and other great men, and old sword-blades from Malta. But +the busiest scene is the slave market, composed of two long ranges of +sheds, one for males and another for females. These poor creatures +are seated in rows, decked out for exhibition. The buyer scrutinizes +them as nicely as a purchaser with us does a horse, inspecting the +tongue, teeth, eyes, and limbs; making them cough and perform various +movements, to ascertain if there be any thing unsound, and in case of +a blemish appearing, or even without assigning a reason, he may +return them within three days. As soon as the slaves are sold, the +exposer gets back their finery, to be employed in ornamenting others. +Most of the captives purchased at Kano, are conveyed across the +desert, during which their masters endeavour to keep up their +spirits, by an assurance, that on passing its boundary, they will be +set free and dressed in red, which they account the gayest of +colours. Supplies, however, often fail in this dreary journey, a want +first felt by the slaves, many of whom perish with hunger and +fatigue. Clapperton heard the doleful tale of a mother, who had seen +her child dashed to the ground, while she herself was compelled by +the lash to drag on an exhausted frame. Yet, when at all tolerably +treated, they are very gay, an observation generally made in regard +to slaves, but this gaiety, arising only from the absence of thought, +probably conceals much secret wretchedness. + +The regulations of the market of Kano seem to be good, and strictly +enforced. A sheik superintends the police, and is said even to fix +the prices. The _dylalas_ or brokers, are men of somewhat high +character; packages of goods are often sold unopened bearing merely +their mark. If the purchaser afterwards finds any defect, he returns +it to the agent, who must grant compensation. The medium of exchange +is not cloth as in Bornou, nor iron as in Loggun, but cowries or +little shells, brought from the roast, twenty of which are worth a +halfpenny, and four hundred and eighty make a shilling, so that in +paying a pound sterling, one has to count over nine thousand six +hundred cowries. Amid so many strangers, there is ample room for the +trade of the _restaurateur,_ which is carried on by a female seated +on the ground, with a mat on her knees, on which are spread +vegetables, gussub water, and bits of roasted meat about the size of +a penny; these she retails to her customers squatted around her. The +killing of a bullock forms a sort of festival at Kano; its horns are +dyed red with henna, drums are beaten, and a crowd collected, who, if +they approve of the appearance and condition of the animal, readily +become purchasers. + +Boxing in Houssa, like wrestling in Bornou, forms a favourite +exercise, and the grand national spectacle. Clapperton, having heard +much of the _fancy_ of Kano, intimated his willingness to pay for a +performance, which was forthwith arranged. The whole body of butchers +attended, and acted as masters of the ceremonies; while, as soon as +the tidings spread, girls left their pitchers at the wells; the +market people threw down their baskets, and an immense crowd were +assembled. The ring being formed, and drums beaten, the performers +first came forward singly, plying their muscles, like a musician +tuning his instrument, and each calling out to the bystanders--"I am +a hyena." "I am a lion." "I can kill all that oppose me." After about +twenty had shown off in this manner, they came forward in pairs, +wearing only a leathern girdle, and with their hands muffled in +numerous folds of country cloth. It was first ascertained that they +were not mutual friends; after which they closed with the utmost +fury, aiming their blows at the most mortal parts, as the pit of the +stomach, beneath the ribs, or under the ear; they even endeavoured to +scoop out the eyes; so that in spite of every precaution, the match +often terminated in the death of one of the combatants. Whenever +Clapperton saw the affair verging to such an issue, he gave orders to +stop, and after seeing six parties exhibit, he paid the hire, and +broke up the meeting. + +The negroes here are excessively polite and ceremonious, especially +to those advanced in years. They salute one another by laying the +hand on the breast, making a bow, and inquiring, _Kona lafia? ki ka +ky kee--Fo fo da rana:_ How do you do? I hope you are well. How have +you passed the heat of the day? The last question corresponds in +their climate to the circumstantiality, with what our country folks +inquire about a good night's rest. + +The unmarried girls, whether slaves or free, and likewise the young +unmarried men, wear a long apron of blue and white check, with a +notched edging of red woollen cloth. It is tied with two broad bands, +ornamented in the same way, and hanging down behind to the very +ankles. This is peculiar to Soudan, and forms the only distinction in +dress from the people of Bornou. + +Their marriages are not distinguished by any great form or ceremony. +When a bride is first conducted to the house of the bridegroom, she +is attended by a great number of friends and slaves, bearing presents +of melted fat, honey, wheat, turkadees, and tobes as her dower. +She whines all the way, _"Wey kina! wey kina! wey lo!"_ O my head! My +head! Oh! dear me. Notwithstanding this lamentation, the husband has +commonly known his wife some time before marriage. Preparatory to the +ceremony of reading the fatah, both bridegroom and bride remain shut +up for some days, and have their hands and feet dyed for three days +successively, with henna. The bride herself visits the bridegroom, +and applies the henna plasters with her own hands. + +Every one is buried under the floor of his own house, without +monument or memorial, and among the commonalty the house continues +occupied as usual, but among the great there is more refinement, and +it is ever after abandoned. The corpse being washed, the first +chapter of the Koran is read over it, and the interment takes place +the same day. The bodies of slaves are dragged out of town, and left +a prey to vultures and wild beasts. In Kano they do not even take the +trouble to convey them beyond the walls, but throw the corpse into +the morass, or nearest pool of water. + +Major Denham was now informed that the sultan had sent a messenger +express, with orders to have him conducted to his capital, and to +supply him with every thing necessary for his journey. He now begged +him to state what he stood in need of. The major assured him that the +king of England, his master, had liberally provided for all his +wants, but that he felt profoundly grateful for the kind offer of the +sultan, and had only to crave from him the favour of being attended +by one of his people as a guide. He instantly called a +fair-complexioned Fellata, and asked the major if he liked him; the +answer was given in the affirmative, and Major Denham took his leave. +He afterwards went by invitation, to visit the governor of Hadyja, +who was here on his return from Sockatoo, and lived in the house of +the Wanbey. He found this governor of Hadyja, a black man, about +fifty years of age, sitting amongst his own people, at the upper end +of the room, which is usually a little raised, and is reserved in +this country for the master of the house, or visitors of high rank. +He was well acquainted with the major's travelling name, for the +moment he entered, he said laughing, "How do you do, Abdallah? Will +you come and see me at Hadyja on your return?" + +"God be willing," answered the major, with due moslem solemnity. + +"You are a Christian, Abdallah?" asked the governor. "I am," replied +the major. + +"And what are you come to see?" inquired the governor. "The country," +replied the major, "its manners and customs." "What do you think of +it?" asked the governor. "It is a fine country," said the major, "but +very sickly." At this the governor smiled, and again asked, "would +you Christians allow us to come and see your country?" + +"Certainly," said the major, "and every civility and kindness would +be shown to you." + +"Would you force us to become Christians?" asked the governor. + +"By no means," answered the major, "we never meddle with a man's +religion." + +"What!" he exclaimed, "and do you ever pray?" "Sometimes," said the +major. "Our religion commands us to pray always, but we pray in +secret, and not in public, except on Sundays." + +One of his attendants here abruptly asked, what a Christian was "Why, +a kafir," rejoined the governor. "Where is your Jew servant?" he +asked, "you ought to let us see him." + +"Excuse me," said the major, "he is averse from it, and I never allow +my servants to be molested for their religious opinions." + +"Well, Abdallah," said the governor, "thou art a man of +understanding, and must come and see me at Hadyja." + +The major then retired, and the Arabs afterwards told him, that he +was a perfect savage, and sometimes put a merchant to death for the +sake of his goods, but this account, if true, is less to be wondered +at, from the notorious villainy of some of them. + +From Kano, Lieutenant Clapperton set out, under the guidance of +Mohammed Jollie, leader of a caravan intended for Sockatoo, capital +of the sultan of the Fellatas. The country was perhaps the finest in +Africa, being under high cultivation, diversified with groves of +noble trees, and traversed in a picturesque manner by ridges of +granite. The manners of the people, too, were pleasing and pastoral. +At many clear springs, gushing from the rocks, young women were +drawing water. As an excuse for engaging in talk, our traveller asked +several times for the means of quenching his thirst. Bending +gracefully on one knee, and displaying, at the same time, teeth of +pearly whiteness and eyes of the blackest lustre, they presented a +gourd, and appeared highly delighted, when he thanked them for their +civility, remarking to one another, "Did you hear the white man thank +me?" But the scene was changed on reaching the borders of the +provinces of Goobar and Zamfra, which were in a state of rebellion +against Sockatoo. The utmost alarm at that moment prevailed; men and +women, with their bullocks, asses, and camels, all struggled to be +foremost, every one crying out, "Woe to the wretch that falls behind; +he will be sure to meet an unhappy end, even at the hands of the +Goobarites!" There was danger of being even thrown down and trampled +to death by the bullocks, which were furiously rushing backward and +forward; however, through the unremitting care of the escort, +Clapperton made his way safely, though not without much fatigue and +annoyance, along this perilous frontier. + +The country was now highly cultivated. The road was crowded with +passengers and loaded bullocks, going to the market of Zimrie, which +town was passed a little to the southward about noon, when the +country became more wooded. In the evening, a halt was made at a town +called Quarra, where Clapperton waited upon the governor, who was an +aged Fellata. Here Clapperton was unluckily taken for a fighi, or +teacher, and was pestered at all hours of the clay to write out +prayers by the people. His servants hit upon a scheme to get rid of +their importunities, by acquainting them, that, if he did such +things, they must be paid the perquisites usually given to the +servants of other fighis. Clapperton's washerwoman positively +insisted on being paid with a charm in writing, that would entice +people to buy earthen-ware of her, and no persuasion of his could +either induce her to accept of money for her service, or make her +believe that the request was beyond human power. In the cool of the +afternoon, he was visited by three of the governor's wives, who, +after examining his skin with much attention, remarked, +compassionately, it was a thousand pities he was not black, for then +he would have been tolerably good looking. He asked one of them, a +buxom young girl of fifteen, if she would accept of him for a +husband, provided he could obtain the permission of her master, the +governor. She immediately began to whimper, and on urging her to +explain the cause, she frankly avowed, _she did not know what to do +with his white legs._ He gave to each of them a snuff-box, and, in +addition, a string of white beads to the coy maiden. They were +attended by an old woman and two little female slaves, and, during +their stay, made very merry; but he feared much that their gaiety +soon fled on returning to the close custody of their old gaoler. + +Clapperton now tried every thing in his power to induce his guide to +proceed, without waiting for the escort; but El Wordee and the +shreef, who were the most pusillanimous rascals he ever met with, +effectually dissuaded him from it. + +He was much amused with a conversation he overheard between the blind +shreef and his servant, respecting himself and his intended journey. +"That Abdallah," says the servant, "is a very bad man; he has no more +sense than an ass, and is now going to lead us all to the devil, if +we will accompany him. I hope, master, you are not such a fool." + +"Yes," ejaculated the shreef, "it was a black day when I joined that +kafir; but if I don't go with him; I shall never see the sultan; and +when I return to Kano without any thing, the people will laugh at me +for my pains." + +"Why did you not talk to him," said the servant, "about the dangers +of the road?" + +"D--n his father!" replied the shreef; "I have talked to him, but +these infidels have no prudence." + +Clapperton now called out, "A thousand thanks to you, my lord +shreef." + +"May the blessings of God be upon you!" exclaimed the shreef. "Oh! +Rais Abdallah, you are a beautiful man. I will go with you wherever +you go. I was only speaking in jest to this dog." + +"My lord shreef," said Clapperton, "I was aware of it from the first; +it is of no importance, but, if the escort does not arrive to-morrow, +I may merely mention to you, I shall certainly proceed, without +further delay, to Kashna." + +This Clapperton said by way of alarming the shreef, who liked his +present quarters too well, from the number of pious females, who +sought edification from the lips of so true a descendant of the +prophet; besides the chance such visits afforded of transmitting to +their offspring the honour of so holy a descent. + +The small-pox was at this time raging in the country to an alarming +degree. The treatment of the disease is as follows:--When the disease +makes its appearance, they anoint the whole body with honey, and the +patient lies down on the floor, previously strewed with warm sand, +some of which is also sprinkled upon him. If the patient be very ill, +he is bathed in cold water early every morning, and is afterwards +anointed with honey, and replaced in the warm sand. This is their +only mode of treatment; but numbers died every day of this loathsome +disease, which had now been raging for six months. + +Clapperton had now his baggage packed up for his journey to Kashna, +to the great terror of El Wordee, the shreef, and all his servants, +who earnestly begged him to remain only a day longer. A party of +horse and foot arrived from Zirmee the same night. It was the retinue +of a Fellata captain, who was bringing back a young wife from her +father's, where she had made her escape. The fair fugitive bestrode a +very handsome palfrey, amid a groupe of female attendants on foot. +Clapperton was introduced to her on the following morning, when she +politely joined her husband in requesting Clapperton to delay his +journey another day, in which case, they kindly proposed they should +travel together. Of course, it was impossible to refuse so agreeable +an invitation, to which Clapperton seemed to yield with all possible +courtesy. Indeed he had no serious intention of setting out that day. +The figure of the lady was small, but finely formed, and her +complexion of a clear copper colour, while, unlike most beautiful +women, she was mild and unobtrusive in her manners. Her husband, too, +whom she had deserted, was one of the finest looking men Clapperton +ever saw, and had also the reputation of being one of the bravest of +his nation. + +A humpbacked lad, in the service of the gadado, or vizier of Bello, +who, on his way from Sockatoo, had his hand dreadfully wounded by the +people of Goober, was in the habit of coming every evening to +Clapperton's servants to have the wound dressed. On conversing with +Clapperton himself, he told him that he had formerly been on an +expedition under Abdecachman, a Fallata chief. They started from the +town of Labogee, or Nyffee, and, crossing the Quarra, travelled south +fourteen days along the banks of the river, until they were within +four days journey of the sea, where, according to his literal +expression, "the river was one, and the sea was one," but at what +precise point the river actually entered the sea, he had no distinct +notion. + + + +CHAPTER XXIV. + +Early in the morning of the 13th March, Clapperton commenced his +journey, in company with the Fellata chief. El Wordee and the shreef +were evidently in much trepidation, as they did not consider their +present party sufficiently strong, in case of attack; but they had +not proceeded far on their route, when they were agreeably surprised +by meeting the escort, which they expected. It consisted of one +hundred and fifty horsemen, with drums and trumpets. Their leader, +with his attendants, advanced to Clapperton in full gallop, and bade +him welcome to the country in the name of his master, the sultan, +who, he said, was rejoiced to hear he was so near, and had sent him +to conduct the travellers to his capital. + +They continued to travel with the utmost speed, but the people soon +began to fag, and the lady of the Fellata chief, who rode not far +from Clapperton, began to complain of fatigue. In the evening they +halted at the wells of Kamoon, all extremely fatigued, and on the +following morning, they discovered that all their camels had strayed +away in quest of food; they were, however, recovered by the exertions +of the escort, to the commander of which Clapperton made a handsome +present, consisting of some European articles, and to his officers a +present of minor value. + +On the following day, Clapperton left the wells of Kamoon, followed +by his escort and a numerous retinue, and a loud flourish of horns +and trumpets. Of course, this extraordinary respect was paid to him +as the servant of the king of England, as he was styled in the sheik +of Bornou's letter. To impress them still farther with his official +importance, Clapperton arrayed himself in his lieutenant's coat, +trimmed with gold lace, white trousers, and silk stockings, and to +complete his finery, he wore Turkish slippers and a turban. Although +his limbs pained him extremely, in consequence of their recent forced +march, he constrained himself to assume the utmost serenity of +countenance, in order to meet, with befitting dignity, the honours +they lavished on him as the humble representative of his country. + +From the top of the second hill after leaving Kamoon, they at length +saw Sockatoo. A messenger from the sultan met them here to bid the +travellers welcome, and to acquaint them that the sultan was at a +neighbouring town, on his return from a ghrazzie or expedition, but +intended to be in Sockatoo in the evening. At noon they arrived at +Sockatoo, where a great number of people were assembled to look at +the European traveller, and he entered the city amid the hearty +welcomes of young and old. He was immediately conducted to the house +of the gadado or vizier, where apartments were provided for him and +his servants. The gadado, an elderly man named Simnon Bona Lima, +arrived near midnight, and came instantly to see him. He was +excessively polite, but would on no account drink tea with +Clapperton, as he said, he was a stranger in their land, and had not +yet eaten of his bread. He told Clapperton that the sultan wished to +see him in the morning, and repeatedly assured him of experiencing +the most cordial reception. He spoke Arabic extremely well, which he +said he learned solely from the Koran. + +After breakfast on the following morning, the sultan sent for +Clapperton, his residence being at no great distance. In front of it +there is a large quadrangle, into which several of the principal +streets of the city lead. They passed through three coozees, as +guardhouses, without the least detention, and were immediately +ushered into the presence of Bello, the second sultan of the +Fellatas. He was seated on a small carpet, between two pillars +supporting the roof of a thatched house, not unlike one of our +cottages. The walls and pillars were painted blue and white, in the +moorish taste and on the back wall was sketched a fire screen, +ornamented with a coarse painting of a flower-pot. An arm-chair with +an iron lamp standing on it, was placed on each side of the screen. +The sultan bade Clapperton many hearty welcomes, and asked him if he +were not much tired with his journey from Burderewa. Clapperton told +him it was the most severe travelling he had experienced between +Tripoli and Sockatoo, and thanked him for the guard, the conduct of +which he did not fail to commend in the strongest terms. + +The sultan asked him a great many questions about Europe, and our +religious distinctions. He was acquainted with the names of some of +the more ancient sects, and asked whether we were Nestorians or +Socinians. To extricate himself from the embarrassment occasioned by +this question, Clapperton bluntly replied, we were called +Protestants. "What are Protestants?" said he. Clapperton attempted to +explain to him, as well as he was able, that having protested more +than two centuries and a half ago, against the superstition, +absurdities, and abuses practised in those days, we had ever since +professed to follow simply what was written "in the book of our Lord +Jesus," as they call the New Testament, and thence received the name +of Protestants. He continued to ask several other theological +questions, until Clapperton was obliged to confess himself not +sufficiently versed in religious subtleties, to resolve these knotty +points, having always left that task to others more learned than +himself. + +The sultan was a noble-looking man, forty-four years of age, although +much younger in appearance, five feet ten inches high, portly in +person, with a short curling black beard, a small mouth, a fine +forehead, a grecian nose, and large black eyes. He was dressed in a +light blue cotton tobe, with a white muslin turban, the shawl of +which he wore over the nose and mouth, in the Tuarick fashion. + +In the afternoon Clapperton repeated his visit, accompanied by the +Gadado, Mahomed El Wordee, and Mahomed Gomsoo, the principal Arab of +the city, to whom he had a letter of introduction from Hat Salah, at +Kano. The sultan was sitting in the same apartment in which he +received him in the morning, and Clapperton laid before him the +presents, in the name of his majesty the king of England. Amongst +these presents, the compass and spy glass excited the greatest +interest, and the sultan seemed highly gratified when Clapperton +pointed out, that by means of the former he could at any time find +out the east, to address himself in his daily prayers. He said "Every +thing is wonderful, but you are the greatest curiosity of all," and +then added, "What can I give that is most acceptable to the king of +England?" Clapperton replied, "The most acceptable service you can +render to the king of England, is to cooperate with his majesty, in +putting a stop to the slave trade on the coast, as the king of +England sends every year large ships to cruise there, for the sole +purpose of seizing all vessels engaged in this trade, whose crews are +thrown into prison, and of liberating the unfortunate slaves, on whom +lands and houses are conferred, at one of our settlements in Africa." + +"What!" said the sultan, "have you no slaves in England." + +"No," replied Clapperton, "whenever a slave sets his foot on England, +he is from that moment free." + +"What do you do then for servants?" asked the sultan. + +"We hire them for a stated period," replied Clapperton, "and give +them regular wages; nor is any person in England allowed to strike +another, and the very soldiers are fed, clothed, and paid by +government." + +"God is great!" exclaimed the sultan, "you are a beautiful people." + +Clapperton now presented the sheik of Bornou's letter. On perusing +it, the sultan assured Clapperton that he should see all that was to +be seen within his dominions, as well as in Youri and Nyffee, both of +which Clapperton informed him, he was most anxious to visit. This +interview terminated very satisfactory to Clapperton, as through the +influence and power of the sultan, he hoped to be able to accomplish +his design of penetrating further into the country, but the sequel +will show, that the knowledge which Clapperton had as yet entertained +of the African character, was very limited and superficial. + +In describing the events which took place during the residence of +Clapperton at Sockatoo, we shall be obliged in several instances to +be very circumstantial, as they have all a reference proximate or +remote to the affairs which took place, when he visited the place at +a future period, in company with Richard Lander, in whose papers some +highly interesting information is contained, respecting the conduct +of the sultan and the natives, both prior and subsequent to the death +of Clapperton, and from which in some degree resulted the death of +that amiable and highly spirited officer. + +On the morning of the 19th March, Clapperton was sent for by the +sultan, and desired to bring with him "the looking glass of the sun," +the name which they gave to the sextant. He was on this occasion +conducted further into the interior of his residence, than on his two +former visits. Clapperton first exhibited a planisphere of the +heavenly bodies. The sultan knew all the signs of the zodiac, some of +the constellations, and many of the stars by their Arabic names. +The looking glass of the sun was then brought forward, and occasioned +much surprise. Clapperton had to explain all its appendages. The +inverting telescope was an object of intense astonishment, and +Clapperton had to stand at some little distance, to let the sultan +look at him through it, for his people were all afraid of placing +themselves within its magical influence. He had next to show him how +to take an observation of the sun. The case of the artificial +horizon, of which Clapperton had lost the key, was sometimes very +difficult to open, as happened on this occasion, and he asked one of +the people near him for a knife to press up the lid. The person +handed him one much too small, and he quite inadvertently asked for a +dagger for the same purpose. The sultan was instantly thrown into a +fright; he seized his sword, and half drawing it from the scabbard, +placed it before him, trembling all the time like an aspen leaf. +Clapperton did not deem it prudent to take the least notice of this +alarm, although it was himself who had in reality the greatest cause +of fear. On receiving the dagger, Clapperton calmly opened the case, +and returned the weapon to its owner with apparent unconcern. When +the artificial horizon was arranged, the sultan and all his +attendants had a peep at the sun, and the breach of etiquette which +Clapperton had committed, seemed to be entirely forgotten. In the +evening the sultan sent him two sheep, a camel load of wheat and +rice, and some of the finest figs which Clapperton had ever tasted in +Africa. + +On the following day, Clapperton returned the visit of Mahomed +Gomsoo, the chief of the Arabs, of whose excessive greediness he had +been warned at Kano, but at the same time recommended to make him a +handsome present, and to endeavour by all means to keep him in good +humour, on account of his great influence. On receiving the presents, +Gomsoo promised to give Clapperton a letter to the sultan of Youri, +who was his particular friend, and with whom he had lived many years. +From this person Clapperton obtained the following information +respecting the death of Mr. Park, and which confirmed the previous +reports which had been obtained respecting him. Gomsoo said he was at +Youri when the English came down in a boat from Timbuctoo, and were +lost, which circumstance he related in the following manner:--They +had arrived off a town called Boosa, and having sent a gun and some +other articles as presents to the sultan of Youri, they sent to +purchase a supply of onions in the market. The sultan apprised them +of his intention to pay them a visit, and offered to send people to +guide them through the ledges of rock, which run quite across the +channel of the river a little below the town, where the banks rise +into high hills on both sides. Instead of waiting for the sultan, +they set off at night, and by daybreak next morning, a horseman +arrived at Youri, to inform the sultan that the boat had struck upon +the rocks. The people on both sides of the river then began to assail +them with arrows, upon which they threw overboard all their effects, +and _two white men,_ arm and arm, jumped into the water, two slaves +only remaining in the boat, with some books and papers, and several +guns. One of the books was covered with wax-cloth, and still remained +in the hands of the sultan of Youri. Gomsoo also told Clapperton, and +his account was confirmed by others, that the sultan of Youri was a +native of Sockna, in the regency of Tripoli, and prided himself +extremely on his birth, but that he was such a drunkard, whenever any +person of consequence came to visit him, that nothing proved so +acceptable a present as a bottle of rum. + +On Clapperton's return home from Gomsoo's, he found a message had +been left for him to wait upon the sultan, which he complied with +immediately after breakfast. He received him in an inner apartment, +attended only by a few slaves. After asking Clapperton how he did, +and several other chit chat questions, he was not a little surprised, +without a single question being put to him on the subject, to hear, +that if he wished to go to Nyffee, there were two roads leading to +it, the one direct, but beset by enemies; the other safer, but more +circuitous; that by either route he would be detained during the +rains, in a country at present in a state of rebellion, and therefore +that he ought to think seriously of these difficulties. Clapperton +assured the sultan that he had already taken the matter into +consideration, and that he was neither afraid of the dangers of the +roads nor of the rains. "Think of it with prudence," the sultan +replied, and they parted. + +From the tone and manner in which the sultan pronounced the latter +sentence, Clapperton felt a foreboding that his intended visit to +Youri and Nyffee was at an end. He could not help suspecting the +intrigues of the Arabs to be the cause, as they knew well, if the +native Africans were once acquainted with English commerce by the way +of the sea, their own lucrative inland trade would from that moment +cease. He was much perplexed during the whole of the day, to know how +to act, and went after sunset to consult Mahomed Gomsoo. Clapperton +met him at the door of his house, on his way to the sultan, and +stopped him to mention what had passed, and how unaccountably strange +it appeared to him, that the sultan, after having repeatedly assured +him of being at liberty to visit every part of his dominions, should +now, for the first time, seem inclined to withdraw that permission, +adding, that before he came to Sockna, he never heard of a king +making a promise one day and breaking it the next. All this, he knew, +would find its way to the sultan. Gomsoo told Clapperton that he was +quite mistaken; for that the sultan, the gadado, and all the +principal people, entertained the highest opinion of him, and wished +for nothing so much as to cultivate the friendship of the English +nation. But, said Clapperton, on leaving him, it is necessary for me +to visit those places, or else how can the English get here? As +Clapperton anticipated, Gomsoo repeated to the sultan every word he +had said, for he was no sooner at home, than he was sent for by the +sultan, whom he found seated with Gomsoo and two others. He was +received with great kindness, and Gomsoo said he had made the sultan +acquainted with their conversation. Clapperton thanked him, and +expressed his earnest hope, that he had neither done nor said any +thing to offend him. The sultan assured him that his conduct had +always met with his approbation, and although he was freely disposed +to show him all the country, still he wished to do so with safety to +him. An army, he added, was at this moment ravaging the country, +through which he had to pass, and until he heard from it, it would be +unsafe to go, he expected, however, further information in three or +four days. He drew on the sand the course of the river Quarra, which +he informed Clapperton entered the sea at Fundah. By his account the +river ran parallel to the sea coast for several days' journey, being +in some places only a few hours, in others a day's journey distant +from it. After questioning Clapperton on some points connected with +the English trade, the sultan said, "I will give the king of England +a place on the coast to build a town, only I wish a road to be cut to +Rakah, if vessels should not be able to navigate the river." +Clapperton asked him, if the country which he had promised, belonged +to him. "Yes," said he, "God has given me all the lands of the +infidels." This was an answer that admitted of no contradiction. + +The sultan informed Clapperton, that some timbers of Park's boat, +fastened together with nails, remained a long time on the rocks of +the river, and that a double-barrelled gun, taken in the boat, was +once in his possession, but it had lately burst. His cousin, +Abderachman, however, had a small printed book, taken out of the +boat; but he was now absent on an expedition to Nyffee. The other +books were in the hands of the sultan of Youri, who was tributary to +him. Clapperton told the sultan, if he could procure these articles +for the king of England, they would prove a most acceptable present, +and he promised to make every exertion in his power. + +The direct road to Youri is only five days' journey; but on account +of the rebellious state of the country, it was necessary to take a +circuitous route of twelve days. Numbers of the principal people of +Sockatoo came to Clapperton, to advise him to give up the idea of +going, all alleging that the rains had already commenced it Youri, +and that the road was in the hands of their enemies. They repeated +the same tales to the servants who were to accompany him, and threw +them all into a panic at the prospect of so dangerous a journey. +Clapperton discovered also, that the Arabs were tampering with his +servants, and some of them absolutely refused to go, from some +information that was given to them, that, if they met with no +disasters on the route to Youri, the sultan there would assuredly +sell them, and that they would never be allowed to return. + +The journey to Youri now appeared to engross the whole of +Clapperton's attention, and the sultan sent for him, to consult with +him about the guide, who was to accompany him to that place. One man +had already refused, and he had to tempt another with a promise of +forty thousand kowries unknown to the sultan, who kindly took much +pains to impress upon Clapperton the necessity of his return within +twenty-six days, on account of the capricious character of the people +of the place. + +Clapperton now began to see that no chance existed of his prosecuting +his journey to Youri; but it must be admitted, that some of the +suspicions which he entertained were groundless, for the state of the +country was afterwards found to be, if possible, worse than had been +described; and the ravages of the Fellatas so terrible, that any one +coming from amongst them was likely to experience a very disagreeable +reception. Indeed it may be suspected, that the sultan must have been +a good deal embarrassed by the simplicity with which his guest +listened to his pompous boasting as to the extent of his empire, and +by the earnestness with which he entreated him to name one of his +seaports, where the English might land, when it was certain that he +had not a town which was not some hundred miles distant from the +coast. To prevent the disclosure of this fact, which must have taken +place, had Clapperton proceeded in that direction, might be an +additional motive for refusing his sanction. In short, it was finally +announced to Clapperton, that no escort could be found to accompany +him on so rash an enterprise, and that he could return to England +only by retracing his steps. + +One morning, Clapperton was surprised at a visit from Ateeko, the +brother of the sultan, to whom he had sent a present of a scarlet +jacket, breeches, and bornouse. When he was seated, and the usual +compliments were over, Clapperton apologized, on the score of ill +health, for not having already paid him a visit. He now told him he +had a few things belonging to the Englishman who was at Musfeia with +the late Boo Khaloom, but as no person knew what they were, he would +gladly sell them to him, ordering his servant, at the same time, to +produce a bundle he held under his arm. The servant took from the +bundle a shirt, two pair of trousers, and two pieces of parchment +used for sketching by Major Denham. The only other articles, Ateeko +said, were a trunk, a broken sextant, and a watch; the latter had +been destroyed, as he alleged, in their ignorant eagerness to examine +its structure. He then invited Clapperton to visit him on the +following morning, when they might fix the price of what he wished to +buy, to which Clapperton assented; but on reconsidering the matter, +he thought it prudent first to consult the gadado, particularly as +the sultan had gone on an expedition, and was not expected to return +for five days. Clapperton began to fear lest a bad construction might +be put upon his visit to this mean prince, who, on the death of his +father, Bello the First, had aspired to the throne, and even had +himself proclaimed sultan in Sockatoo; from the mere circumstance of +his brother Bello, the present sultan, having expressed the +intention, during his father's lifetime, of resigning the splendour +of royalty for the tranquillity of a holy and learned life. Ateeko +had even the audacity to enter his brother's house, preceded by drums +and trumpets; and when Bello inquired the cause of the tumult, he +received the first intimation of his brother's perfidy in the answer, +"The sultan Ateeko is come." Bello, nowise disconcerted, immediately +ordered the usurper into his presence, when Ateeko pleaded, in +vindication of his conduct, his brother's proposed disinclination to +reign; to which the sultan only deigned to reply, "Go and take off +these trappings, or I will take off your head." Ateeko, with +characteristic abjectness of spirit, began to wring his hands, as if +washing them in water, and called God and the prophet to witness that +his motives were innocent and upright, since which time he has +remained in the utmost obscurity. According, however, to another +authority, Bello confined him to the house for twelve months, and +then a reconciliation took place between them. We are apt to speak of +the sovereigns of barbarous and uncivilized nations as deficient in +those virtues for which civilized sovereigns are or ought to be +distinguished; but we suspect that few of the latter would have acted +towards the usurper of his throne with the same magnanimity as was +displayed by the Fellata sovereign. + +On visiting the gadado, he told Clapperton by no means to go to +Ateeko whilst the sultan was absent, as his visit at this juncture +might be regarded with a very jealous eye by the people, who would +not hesitate to charge him with a plot to place Ateeko on the throne, +by the assistance of England. The gadado undisguisedly expressed his +contempt at Ateeko's conduct, and assured him that it was entirely +without the sanction of the sultan. + +On the return of the sultan from the army, permission was given to +Clapperton to purchase from Ateeko the sorry remains of Major +Denham's baggage; accompanied, therefore, by El Wordee, he went to +the prince's house, and after waiting for some time in the porch of a +square tower, they were introduced into an inner coozee, hung round +with blue and yellow silk, in sharp-pointed festoons, not unlike +gothic arches. Ateeko soon made his appearance, and after a few +compliments, they proceeded to business. He brought out a damaged +leathern trunk, with two or three shirts, and other articles of +dress, much the worse for wear, and the sextant and parchment already +mentioned. The former was completely demolished, the whole of the +glasses being taken out, or, where they could not unscrew them, +broken off the frame, which remained a mere skeleton. Ateeko seemed +to fancy that the sextant was gold, in which Clapperton soon +undeceived him; and selecting it, with the parchment and one or two +flannel waistcoats and towels, likely to be useful to Major Denham, +he offered the prince five thousand kowries, at which he appeared +much surprised and mortified. El Wordee whispered into Clapperton's +ear, "Remember he is a prince, and not a merchant." But Clapperton +said, loud enough for his highness to hear, "Remember, that when a +prince turns merchant, he must expect no more than another man; and +as that is the value of the articles, it is a matter of indifference +to me whether I buy them or not." Ateeko frequently repeated his +belief of the sextant being gold; but at length the bargain seemed to +be concluded, and Clapperton requested the prince to send a slave to +his house with the articles he had picked out, to whom also he would +pay the money. The slave, however, was recalled before he got +half-way, and his suspicious master took back the sextant-frame, in +dread of being overreached by the purchaser in its value, which +Clapperton did not fail to deduct from the price agreed on. + +The prince stated, that he kept two hundred civet cats, two of which +he showed Clapperton. These animals were extremely savage, and were +confined in separate wooden cages. They were about four feet long +from the nose to the tip of the tail, and, with the exception of a +greater length of body and a longer tail, they very much resembled +diminutive hyenas. They are fed with pounded guinea corn and dried +fish made into balls. The civet is scraped off with a kind of muscle +shell every other morning, the animal being forced into a corner of +the cage, and its head held down with a stick during the operation. +The prince offered to sell any number of them which Clapperton might +wish to have; but he did not look upon them as very desirable +travelling companions. Ateeko was a little spare man, with a full +face, of monkey-like expression. He spoke in a slow and subdued tone +of voice, and the Fellatas acknowledge him to be extremely brave, but +at the same time avaricious and cruel. "Were he sultan," say they, +"heads would fly about in Soudan." + +One evening, on paying the gadado a visit, Clapperton found him +alone, reading an Arabic book, one of a small collection he +possessed. "Abdallah," said he, "I had a dream last night, and am +perusing this book to find out what it meant. Do you believe in such +things?" + +"No, my lord gadado. I consider books of dreams to be full of idle +conceits. God gives a man wisdom to guide his conduct, while dreams +are occasioned by the accidental circumstances of sleeping with the +head low, excess of food, or uneasiness of mind." + +"Abdallah," he replied, smiling, "this book tells me differently." He +then mentioned, that, in a few days, the sultan was going on another +expedition, and wished him to join it; but that he preferred +remaining, in order to have a mosque, which was then building, +finished before the Rhamadan, lest the workmen should idle away their +time in his absence. + +Previously to the sultan's departure, he sent Clapperton a present of +two large baskets of wheat, who now began to think seriously of +retracing his steps to Kano. He was sitting in the shade before his +door, with Sidi Sheik, the sultan's fighi, when an ill-looking +wretch, with a fiend-like grin on his countenance, came and placed +himself directly before Clapperton, who immediately asked Sidi Sheik +who he was. He immediately answered, "The executioner." Clapperton +instantly ordered his servants to turn him out. "Be patient," said +Sidi Sheik, laying his hand upon that of Clapperton; "he visits the +first people in Sockatoo, and they never allow him to go away without +giving him a few goora nuts, or money to buy them." In compliance +with this hint, Clapperton requested forty kowries to be given to the +fellow, with strict orders never again to cross his threshold. Sidi +Sheik now related a professional anecdote of Clapperton's uninvited +visitor. Being brother of the executioner of Yacoba, of which place +he was a native, he applied to the governor for his brother's +situation, boasting of superior adroitness in the family vocation. +The governor coolly remarked, "We will try; go and fetch your +brother's head." He instantly went in quest of his brother, and +finding him seated at the door of his house, without noise or +warning, he struck off his head with a sword at one blow; then +carrying the bleeding head to the governor, and claiming the reward +of such transcendent atrocity, he was appointed to the vacant office. +The sultan being afterwards in want of an expert headsman, sent for +him to Sockatoo, where, a short time after his arrival, he had to +officiate at the execution of two thousand Tuaricks, who, in +conjunction with the rebels at Goober, had attempted to plunder the +country, but were all made prisoners. It may be added, that the +capital punishments inflicted in Soudan are beheading, impaling, and +crucifixion; the first being reserved for Mahometans, and the other +two practised on pagans. Clapperton was told, that wretches on the +cross generally linger three days before death puts an end to their +sufferings. Clapperton was for some time delayed in completing his +arrangements for his departure from Sockatoo, on account of the fast +of the Rhamadan, which the Fellatas keep with extreme rigour. The +chief people never leave their houses, except in the evening to +prayer; and the women frequently pour cold water over their backs and +necks. Under the idea, that the greater the thirst they appear to +endure, the better entitled they become to paradise; though +Clapperton was inclined to believe that they made a parade of these +privations, in a great measure, to obtain the reputation of +extraordinary sanctity. + +On the 2nd May, Clapperton sent for the steward of the gadado's +household, and all the female slaves, who had daily performed the +duty of bringing him provisions from the time of his arrival. These +provisions were about a gallon of new milk every morning, in a large +bowl, for himself, and two gallons of sour milk and siccory for his +servants at noon, in return for which he always gave fifty kowries; +at three o'clock three roast fowls, with doura or nutta sauce, for +which he sent fifty kowries; again after sunset two bowls of bozeen +were brought by two female slaves, to whom he gave one hundred +kowries; and about two quarts of new milk afterwards, for which he +gave fifty kowries more. As an acknowledgment for their attention +during his residence in Sockatoo, he now presented the steward of the +household with ten thousand kowries, and the slaves with two thousand +each. The poor creatures were extremely grateful for his bounty, and +many of them even shed tears. In the afternoon he waited upon the +sultan, who told him that he had appointed the same escort which he +had before, under the command of the gadado's brother, to conduct him +through the provinces of Goober and Zamfra, and that an officer of +the gadado, after the escort left him, should accompany him to +Zirmee, Kashna, Kano, and Katagun; the governor of which would +receive orders to furnish him with a strong escort through the Bedite +territory, and to deliver him safely into the hands of the sheik of +Bornou. He also mentioned that the letter for the king of England +would be ready the next day. + +On the following day, Clapperton was visited by all the principal +people of Sockatoo, to bid him farewell, and in the evening he went +to take his leave of the sultan. He was, however, at the mosque, and +he had to wait about two hours before he came out. Clapperton +followed him at a little distance to the door of his residence, where +an old female slave took Clapperton by the hand and led him through a +number of dark passages, in which, at the bidding of his conductress, +he had often to stoop, or at times to tread with great caution, as +they approached flights of steps, whilst a faint glimmering light +twinkled from a distant room. He could not imagine where the old +woman was conducting him, who, on her part, was highly diverted at +his importunate inquiries. After much turning and winding, he was at +last brought into the presence of Bello, who was sitting alone, and +immediately delivered into his hands a letter for the king of +England. He had previously sent to Clapperton to know what were his +majesty's name, style, and title. He again expressed with much +earnestness of manner, his anxiety to enter into permanent relations +of trade and friendship with England, and reminded Clapperton to +apprise him by letter, at what time the English expedition would be +upon the coast. After repeating the fatah, and praying for his safe +arrival in England, and speedy return to Sockatoo, he affectionately +bade him farewell. + +Clapperton went next to take his leave of his good old friend the +gadado, for whom he felt the same regard, as if he had been one of +his oldest friends in England, and he was certain it was equally +sincere on his side. The poor old man prayed very devoutly for his +safety, and gave strict charge to his brother, who was to accompany +Clapperton, to take especial care of him in their journey through the +disturbed provinces. + +The town of Sockatoo lies in latitude 13° 4' 52" north, and longitude +6° 12' east, and is situated near the junction of an inconsiderable +stream, with the same river which flows past Zirmee, and which taking +its rise between Kashna and Kano, is said to fall into the Quarra +four days' journey to the west. The name in their language signifies, +a halting place, the city being built by the Fellatas, after the +conquest of Goober and Zamfra, as near as Clapperton could learn +about the year 1805. It occupies a long ridge, which slopes gently +towards the north, and appeared to Clapperton the most populous town +he had visited in the interior of Africa, for unlike most other towns +in Houssa, where the houses are thinly scattered, it is laid out in +regular well-built streets. The houses approach close to the walls, +which were built by the present sultan in 1818, after the death of +his father; the old walls being too confined for the increasing +population. This wall is between twenty and thirty feet high, and has +twelve gates, which are regularly closed at sunset. There are two +large mosques, including the new one which was then building by the +gadado, besides several other places for prayer. There is a spacious +market-place in the centre of the city, and another large square in +front of the sultan's residence. The inhabitants are principally +Fellatas, possessing numerous slaves. Such of the latter as are not +employed in domestic duties, reside in houses by themselves, where +they follow various trades; the master of course reaping the profit. +Their usual employments are weaving, house-building, shoemaking, and +iron work, many bring firewood to the market for sale. Those employed +in raising grain and tending cattle, of which the Fellatas have +immense herds, reside in villages without the city. It is customary +for private individuals to emancipate a number of slaves every year, +according to their means, during the great feast after the Rhamadan. +The enfranchised seldom return to their native country, but continue +to reside near their old masters, still acknowledging them as their +superiors, but presenting them yearly with a portion of their +earnings. The trade at Sockatoo is at present inconsiderable, owing +to the disturbed state of the surrounding country. The necessaries of +life are very cheap, butchers' meat is in great plenty and very good. +The exports are principally civet, and blue check tobes called +sharie, which are manufactured by the slaves from Nyffee, of whom the +men are considered the most expert weavers in Soudan, and the women +the best spinners. The common imports are goora nuts, brought from +the borders of Ashantee, and coarse calico and woollen cloth in small +quantities, with brass and pewter dishes, and some few spices from +Nyffee. + +The Arabs from Tripoli and Ghadamis bring unwrought silk, attar of +roses, spices and beads; slaves are both exported and imported. A +great quantity of guinea coin is taken every year by the Tuaricks, in +exchange for salt. The market is extremely well supplied, and is held +daily from sunrise to sunset. + +After encountering several difficulties, and experiencing some very +hair-breadth escapes, Clapperton arrived at Zirmee the capital of +Zamfra, a kind of outlawed city, the inhabitants of which are +esteemed the greatest rogues in Houssa, and where all the runaway +slaves find protection. He passed also through Kashna or Cassina, the +metropolis of a kingdom, which, till the rise of the Fellata power, +ruled over all Africa from Bornou to the Niger. In its present +subject and fallen state, the inhabited part does not cover a tenth +of the wide circuit enclosed by its walls, yet a considerable trade +is still carried on with the Tuaricks, or with caravans coming across +the desert by the route of Ghadamis and Suat. Here Clapperton met +with much kindness from Hadgi Ahmet, a powerful and wealthy Arab +chief, who even took him into his seraglio, and desired him, out of +fifty black damsels to make his choice, a complaisance, nothing +resembling which had ever before been shown by a Mussulman. The Arab +was so importunate, and appeared so determined that Clapperton should +have one of his ladies, that to satisfy him, he at length selected +the oldest of the groupe, who made him an excellent nurse in his +illness. + +Lieutenant Clapperton rejoined Major Denham at Kouka, whence they set +out, and crossed the desert in the latter part of 1824. They reached +Tripoli in January 1825, and soon after embarked for Leghorn, but +being detained by contrary winds and quarantine regulations, did not +reach London until the following June. + + + +CHAPTER XXV. + +Having now completed our preparatory analysis of the principal +travels for the exploration of the interior of Africa, we proceed to +enter upon those in which Richard Lander was remotely or closely +connected, as the coadjutor or the principal, and to whose +perseverance and undaunted courage, we are indebted for some of the +most important information respecting the interior of Africa, +particularly in the solution of the great geographical problem of the +termination of the Niger. At the time when Lander was ransomed by +Captain Laing, of the Maria of London, belonging to Messrs. Forster +and Smith, the papers, which he had with him respecting the travels +which he had performed, as the servant of Captain Clapperton, who had +been promoted on his return from his first expedition, were not very +voluminous. In our personal intercourse with him, however, he +unreservedly dictated to us many interesting particulars respecting +his travels, whilst in the service of Captain Clapperton, which are +not to be found in his published narrative, and particularly of the +occurrences which took place at Whidah, in the kingdom of Dahomey, on +their passage through that territory, in fulfilment of the object of +their mission to sultan Bello of Sockatoo. + +Although the second expedition of Clapperton is ostensibly published +under his name, yet it is generally known, that but for the +information given by Lander on his return, after the death of Captain +Clapperton, very little would have transpired relative to any +discoveries which had been made, or towards an elucidation of those +geographical and statistical objects, for which the expedition was +undertaken. We are therefore more disposed to award the merit where +it is most particularly due, for although in accordance with the +received notion, that whatever was accomplished in the second +expedition, is to be attributed to Clapperton, yet, from our private +resources, we are enabled not only to supply many deficiencies in the +published accounts of Clapperton's second expedition, gathered from +the oral communication of Lander himself, but also to give a +description of many interesting scenes, which throw a distinct light +upon the character of the natives, their progress towards +civilisation, and the extent of their commercial relations. + +It may be remembered that when Clapperton took his leave of the +sultan at Sockatoo, he delivered into his hands a letter for the king +of England, in consequence of several conversations that had passed +between him and Clapperton, touching the establishment of some +commercial relations between England and the central kingdoms of +Africa. In that letter the sultan proposed three things:--the +establishment of a friendly intercourse between the two nations by +means of a consul, who was to reside at the _seaport_ of Raka; the +delivery of certain presents described, at the port of Fundah, +supposed to be somewhere near Whidah, and the prohibition of the +exportation of slaves, by any of the Houssa merchants, to Atagher, +Dahomy, or Ashantee. + +No doubt whatever rested on the mind of Lander, that Clapperton was +in some respects made the dupe of the pride, pomposity, and deception +of the African sultan. It may be remembered that the sultan offered +him land on the sea coast, on which to form a settlement, when it was +subsequently discovered, that he was not in possession of an inch of +territory within several hundred miles of the sea; the _seaport_ of +Raka was nearly similar to Sancho Panza's Island Barrataria, it was +not to be found in any existing map, and it will be seen in the +sequel, that the people resident on the sea coast knew as little of +sultan Bello of Sockatoo, as he knew of them, although, according to +his own report, the greater part of the sea coast belonged to him. + +On the arrival of Clapperton in England, Lord Bathurst, then +secretary of state for the colonies, conceived the proposals +contained in the sultan's letter, to afford a fair opportunity for +endeavouring to carry into effect objects of such considerable +importance, and Clapperton immediately volunteered his services for +the occasion. He had arranged with sultan Bello, that his messengers +should about a certain time be at Whidah, to conduct the presents and +the bearers to Sockatoo. Clapperton was allowed to take with him on +this novel and hazardous enterprise two associates, one of whom was +Captain Pearce of the navy, an excellent draughtsman, and the other +Dr. Morrison, a surgeon in the navy, well versed in various branches +of natural history; and at his particular request, a fellow +countryman of the name of Dickson, who had served as a surgeon in the +West Indies, was added to the list; Richard Lander accompanying +Captain Clapperton in the capacity of a servant. + +The travellers embarked on board his majesty's ship Brazen, on the +25th August 1825, and arrived off Whidah on the 26th of the following +November. Mr. Dickson landed at Whidah, for reasons which do not +appear in the narrative of Clapperton's expedition, but which have +been fully stated to us by Lander, to whom we are indebted for the +information which we now lay before our readers of the kingdom of +Dahomy, its natives, customs, natural productions, and commercial +advantages. + +Mr. Dickson, accompanied with a Portuguese of the name of De Sousa, +proceeded from Whidah to Dahomy, where the latter had resided for +some time. Here he was well received, and sent forward with a +suitable escort to a place called Shar, seventeen days' journey from +Dahomy, where he also arrived in safety, and thence proceeded with +another escort towards Youri, but has not since been heard of. + +It was in consequence of the inquiries that were set on foot relative +to Mr. Dickson, that Lander obtained the following highly interesting +information relative to a part of Africa, which was at one time, the +emporium of the slave trade on the sea-coast, but the interior of +which was but very little known. + +Whidah was once an independent kingdom, but in the year 1727 was +conquered by Guadja Trudo, the king of Dahomy. Grigwee, the present +capital, lies a few miles up from the sea coast, and may contain +about twenty thousand inhabitants. Dahomy, including the subjugated +districts, extends at least a hundred and fifty miles into the +interior, the principal town of which is Abomey, lying in about 3° +east longitude. + +Dahomy produces in perfection all the immense variety of fine fruits +found within the torrid zone, and amongst others one of a most +singular quality. It is not unlike a ripe coffee berry, and does not +at first appear to have a superior degree of sweetness, but it leaves +in the mouth so much of that impression, that a glass of vinegar +tastes like sweet wine, and the sourest lemon like a sweet orange; +sugar is quite an unnecessary article in tea or coffee; in fact, the +most nauseous drug seems sweet to whomever chews this fruit, and its +effect is not worn away until after several meals. It is generally +called the miraculous berry, and whoever eats of it in the morning, +must be content at least for that day to forego the flavour of every +kind of food, whether animal or vegetable, for all will be alike +saccharine to the palate, and the most ridiculous effect is often +produced by playing tricks upon those, who are not aware of its +peculiar property. Lander himself was one of the dupes, and he +relates, that the first time he partook of one of these berries, he +thought himself under the influence of witchcraft--the fowl of which +he partook at dinner seemed to him as if it had been soaked in a +solution of sugar--the lime juice appeared to him as if it were mixed +with some saccharine matter--his biscuit tasted like a bun--and +although he was convinced that he had not put any sugar into his +grog, it seemed to him as if it had been sweetened by the first maker +of punch in his native country. + +The beasts of prey are numerous and dangerous, and often commit great +havoc amongst the sheep, and other live stock, notwithstanding every +precaution to put them in a place of security at night. The tigers +and leopards are not contented with what they actually carry off, but +they leave nothing alive which comes within the reach of their +talons. During the residence of Lander in the country, a good mode of +astonishing a tiger was practised with success. A loaded musket was +firmly fixed in a horizontal position, about the height of his head, +to a couple of stakes driven into the ground, and the piece being +cocked, a string from the trigger, first leading a little towards the +butt, and then turning through a small ring forwards, was attached to +a shoulder of mutton, stuck on the muzzle of the musket, the act of +dragging off which, drew the trigger, and the piece loaded with two +balls, discharged itself into the plunderer's mouth, killing him on +the spot. + +Elephants are common in Dahomy, but are not tamed and used by the +natives, as in India, for the purposes of war or burthen, being +merely taken for the sake of their ivory and their flesh, which is, +on particular occasions, eaten. + +An animal of the hyena tribe, called by the natives tweetwee, is +likewise extremely troublesome; herds of these join together, and +scrape up the earth of newly-made graves, in order to get at the +bodies, which are not buried here in coffins. These resurrection men, +as Lander termed them, make, during the night, a most dismal howling, +and often change their note to one very much resembling the shriek of +a woman in some situation of danger or distress. + +Snakes of the boa species are here found of a most enormous size, +many being from thirty to thirty-six feet in length, and of +proportional girth. They attack alike wild and domestic beasts, and +often human kind. They kill their prey by encircling it in their +folds, and squeezing it to death, and afterwards swallow it entire; +this they are enabled to do by a faculty of very extraordinary +expansion in their muscles, without at the same time impairing the +muscular action or power. The bulk of the animals which these +serpents are capable of gorging would stagger belief, were the fact +not so fully attested as to place it beyond doubt. The state of +torpor in which they are sometimes found in the woods, after a +_stuffing_ meal of this kind, affords the negroes an opportunity of +killing them. Lander informed us, that there is not in nature a more +appalling sight than one of these monsters in full motion. It has a +chilling and overpowering effect on the human frame, and it seems to +inspire with the same horror every other animal, even the strongest +and most ferocious; for all are equally certain of becoming victims, +should the snake once fasten itself upon them. + +The religion of this country is paganism. They believe in two beings, +equal in power; the one doing good, the other evil; and they pray to +the demon to allow them to remain unmolested by the magicians, who +are constantly endeavouring to injure them. + +In Whidah, for some unaccountable reason, they worship their divinity +under the form of a particular species of snake called daboa, which +is not sufficiently large to be terrible to man, and is otherwise +tameable and inoffensive. These daboas arc taken care of in the most +pious manner, and well fed on rats, mice, or birds, in their fetish +houses or temples, where the people attend to pay their adoration, +and where those also who are sick or lame apply for assistance. + +The tiger is also an object of religious regard in Dahomy Proper; but +they deem it the safest mode of worship to perform their acts of +devotion to his skin only after death, which is stuffed for that +purpose. + +The people of Whidah occasionally imagine themselves inspired by the +divinity, or, as they term it, are seized by the fetish; and in such +cases, it becomes necessary, from the frantic manner in which they +run about, to secure and place them under the charge of the +fetisheers, or priests, until this fit of inspiration be over, and +they become themselves again. + +The political management of Whidah is entrusted to a viceroy, who is +called the Yavougah, or captain of the white men. This officer, at +the time of Lander's visit to the country, was a man of majestic +stature, and possessed an uncommon share of dignity, mingled with +complacency of manner. His dress was generally a large hat, somewhat +resembling that of a Spanish grandee, tastefully decorated, and a +piece of damask silk, usually red, thrown over one shoulder, like a +Scotch plaid, with a pair of drawers; but his arms and legs were +bare, except the bracelets of silver, which encircled the arm above +the elbow, with manillas of the same sort, and rows of coral round +the wrist. + +When he had any message to deliver from the king, or other public +affairs to transact with the Europeans, it was done with much +ceremony and state; his guards, musicians, and umbrella-bearers, and +a numerous retinue, always attending him. The most polished courtier +of Europe could not have deported himself more gracefully on public +occasions than this man, or have carried on a conference with greater +ease and affability. He was master, besides his own, of the English, +French, and Portuguese languages, having resided from his birth +chiefly in the vicinity of the European forts, and in his younger +days had been much connected with them, officially as a linguist. + +Although, therefore, he understood perfectly what was said to him by +the Europeans, who accompanied Lander, yet it was etiquette for the +viceroy to be spoken to through an interpreter, and it was often +amusing to see the bungling efforts of the latter in the performance +of a task, which the yavougah himself so much better understood, and +which he good humouredly, and in an under tone, assisted him to +complete. After the business of ceremony was finished, he laid aside +all formality, and conversed in a familiar manner upon general +subjects, the whole party joining convivially in a collation, or +repast, which was always served up on such occasions. + +The government of Dahomy is, in the fullest sense of the word, +despotism. It is a monarchy the most unlimited and uncontrolled on +the face of the earth, there being no law but the king's will, who +may chop off as many heads as he pleases, when he is "i' the vein," +and dispose of his subjects' property as he thinks fit, without being +accountable to any human tribunal for his conduct. He has from three +to four thousand wives, a proportion of whom, trained to arms, under +female officers, constitute his body-guards. As may naturally be +supposed, but a few of these wives engage his particular attention. + +The successor to the throne is not announced during the king's +lifetime; but the moment his decease is known, the proclamation is +made with all possible despatch by the proper officers; for all is +murder, anarchy, and confusion in the palace until it takes place; +the wives of the late king not only breaking the furniture and +ornaments, but killing each other, in order to have the honour of +attending their husband to the grave. + +The choice usually falls on the eldest son of the late sovereign's +greatest favourite, provided there exists no particular reason for +setting him aside. There seem to be no rank nor privileges annexed to +any branches of the royal family; the king, in his own person, +absorbing the undivided respect of the people. Those of his relations +whom his majesty may deign to patronise, will, of course, be more +noticed by their fellow-slaves; but are all alike the slaves of the +king. + +His palace at Abomey is walled round, and consists, according to the +report of Lander and others, who had an opportunity of visiting its +interior, of numerous courts connected with each other, occupying, in +the whole, a space full as large as St. James' Park. + +The first minister is called the _tamegan,_ and he is the only man in +the country whose head the king cannot cut off at pleasure. By some +ancient regulation, he who attains this rank has that very essential +part of his person secured to him, perhaps that he may honestly speak +his mind to the king, without fear of consequences. The second, or +mahou, is the master of the ceremonies, whose office it is to receive +and introduce all strangers, whether black or white, and also to take +care of them during their stay at court, and to see that they are +well fed and lodged, with all their attendants. The third officer in +the state is the yavougah of Whidah; and the fourth is the jahou, or +master of the horse, who is likewise the chief executioner, and has +the duty of superintending the numerous decapitations, which occur in +various ways. + +There are entertained about the court a number of king's messengers, +called half-heads, because one side of their head is always shaved, +whilst the hair on the other is allowed to grow to its full length. +They are men, who have distinguished themselves in battle, and wear, +as the badge of their office, strings of the teeth of those enemies +they have actually killed with their own hands, slung round their +necks, like the collar of an order. + +These extraordinary-looking couriers, when sent on any mission, are +never permitted to walk, but run at full speed, and are relieved at +certain distances on the road by relays of others, who push on in the +same manner, on receiving their orders, which they transfer from one +to the other with the greatest exactness. The general officers in the +Dahomian army are distinguished by large umbrellas, and when any of +that class are killed in action, they say figuratively, that, on such +an occasion, we lost so many umbrellas. + +In delivering what is termed the king's word, the messenger, as well +as all those around him, fall prostrate on the ground, and cover +their heads with dust, or with mud, if it rains; so that they often +display very hideous figures, with their black bodies and the wool +of their heads thus bedaubed with red puddle. + +The ministers of state, in communicating with the king, approach +within a certain distance of him, crawling on their hands and knees, +at last they prostrate themselves, kiss the ground, cover their heads +with dust, then make their speech, and receive his reply. His majesty +usually sits on public occasions, as he is represented in our +engraving, under a rich canopy, on a finely carved stool or throne, +surrounded by his women, some with whisks driving away the flies, one +with a handkerchief to wipe his mouth, and another on her knees, +holding a gold cup to spit in, as he smokes. + +Their marriages, like those of most barbarous nations, are settled by +the bridegroom paying a certain sum for the woman, which is +calculated at the rate of one or more slaves, or moveable property in +shells, cloth, or other articles, to the amount of the specified +number of slaves. Polygamy is allowed to any extent, and it is +generally carried as far as the means of the gentlemen will admit, +as, after a short period, or honeymoon, the women are employee in the +fields and plantations, and usually are no better situated than the +common servants of their husbands. + +Adultery is punished by slavery, or the value of a slave, by the +offender, and the lady likewise subjects herself to be sold, but it +is remarked that this measure is seldom resorted to, and it sometimes +happens that a handsome wife is repeatedly turned to advantage by her +husband, in alluring the unwary into heavy damages. + +The state of women is upon the whole very abject in Dahomy. Wives +approach their husbands with every mark of the humblest submission. +In presenting him even with a calabash containing his food, after she +has cooked it, she kneels and offers it with an averted look, it +being deemed too bold to stare him full in the face. By their +constantly practising genuflexion upon the bare ground, their knees +become in time almost as hard as their heels. + +A mutinous wife or a vixen, sometimes the treasure and delight of an +Englishman; the enlivener of his fireside, and his safeguard from +ennui, is a phenomenon utterly unknown in Dahomy--that noble spirit, +which animates the happier dames in lands of liberty, being here, +alas! extinguished and destroyed. + +In most nations a numerous progeny is considered a blessing, as being +likely to prop the declining years of their parents, but in Dahomy, +children are taken from their mothers at an early age, and +distributed in villages remote from the places of their nativity, +where they remain with but little chance of being ever seen, or at +least recognized by their parents afterwards. The motive for this is, +that there may be no family connexion nor combinations; no +associations that might prove injurious to the king's unlimited +power. Hence each individual is detached and unconnected, and having +no relative for whom he is interested, is solicitous only for his own +safety, which he consults by the most abject submission. Paternal +affection, and filial love, therefore, can scarcely be said to exist. +Mothers, instead of cherishing, endeavour to suppress those +attachments for their offspring, which they know will be violated, as +soon as their children are able to undergo the fatigue of being +removed from them. + +At a particular period of the year, generally in April or May, a +grand annual festival is held, which may with much propriety be +termed a _carnival._ On this occasion the chief magistrates or +caboceers of the different towns and districts, the governors of the +English, French, and Portuguese settlements, are expected to attend +at the capital, with their respective retinues; and the captains of +ships, and factors trading at Whidah, usually take this opportunity +of paying their respects to the king. A great part of the population, +in fact; repair to Abomey, which resembles some great fair, from the +number of booths and tents erected in it for various purposes. + +It is at this time also that the revenue is collected; all the people +either bringing or sending their respective quotas to the royal +treasury. White men are received there with every mark of respect, +and even saluted by the discharge of cannon. There appears to be an +extraordinary mixture of ferocity and politeness in the character of +these people; though terrible and remorseless to their enemies, +nothing can exceed their urbanity and kindness to strangers. + +Should any white person be taken ill at Abomey, the king sends the +mayhou, or some other great officer, to make daily inquiries about +the state of his malady, and desiring to know in what way he can +assist or promote his recovery. + +Notwithstanding, the king exacts from his own subjects the most +humiliating and abject prostrations, on approaching his person, yet +he admits Europeans to his presence without the least scruple, +requiring only from them those marks of respect which they may think +fit to perform, in the style of salutation they have been accustomed +to in their own countries. They are allowed to be seated in his +company, and he personally pays them great attention. Cooks are +procured, who understand the mode of preparing European dishes; even +table cloths, with knives and forks, although never used by +themselves, are furnished, and in short every thing which can +contribute to their comfort, is provided with eastern hospitality. + +They are likewise entertained with feasts, music, public dances, +processions of the king's women, and the exhibition of sports and +games. + +But amidst this general enjoyment of festivity and mirth, deeds are +done from which the civilized mind recoils with horror, and which it +cannot contemplate without feeling an ardent desire, to see mankind +raised from that state of savage ignorance and superstition, which +leads to acts so monstrous and unnatural. + +In order to _water_ with their blood the graves of the king's +ancestors, and to supply them with servants of various descriptions +in the other world, a number of human victims are annually sacrificed +in solemn form, and this carnival is the period at which these +shocking rites are publicly performed. + +Scaffolds are erected outside the palace wall, and a large space +fenced in round them. On these the king, with the white strangers who +think proper to attend, are seated, and the ministers of state are +also present in the space beneath. Into this field of blood the +victims are brought in succession, with their arms pinioned, and a +fetisheer, laying his hand on the devoted head, pronounces a few +mystical words, when another man, standing behind, with a large +scymitar severs the sufferer's head from his body, generally at a +single blow, and each repetition of this savage act is proclaimed by +loud shouts of applause from the surrounding multitude, who affect to +be highly delighted with the power and magnificence of their +sovereign. + +His bards, or laureats, join also at this time in bawling out his +strong names, (their term for titles of honour,) and sing songs in +his praise. These scenes are likewise enlivened by a number of people +engaged in a savage dance round the scaffolds; should the foot of one +of these performers slip, it is considered an ill omen; the +unfortunate figurante is taken out of the ring, and his head +instantly struck off, whilst the dance continues without +interruption, as if nothing unusual had occurred. + +The people thus sacrificed are generally prisoners of war, whom the +king often puts aside for this purpose, several months previously to +the celebration of his horrid festival; should there be any lack of +these, the number is made up from the most convenient of his own +subjects. The number of these victims sometimes amount to several +hundred, but about seventy are the average number. + +Their bodies are either thrown out into the fields, to be devoured by +vultures and wild beasts, or hung by the heels in a mutilated state +upon the surrounding trees, a practice exceedingly offensive in so +hot a climate. The heads are piled up in a heap for the time, and +afterwards disposed of in decorating the walls of the royal +_simbonies,_ or palaces, some of which are two miles in +circumference, and often require a renewal and repair of these +ornaments. + +An anecdote is related of king Adahoouza, who, on a successful attack +upon Badagry, having a great number of victims to sacrifice, ordered +their heads to be applied to the above purpose. The person to whom +the management of this business was committed, having neglected to +make a proper calculation of his materials, had proceeded too far +with his work, when he found that there would not be a sufficient +number of skulls to adorn the whole palace; he therefore requested +permission to begin the work, as the lawyers would say, _de novo,_ in +order that he might, by placing them farther apart, complete the +design in a regular manner; but the king would by no means give his +consent to this proposal, observing that he would soon find a +sufficient number of Badagry heads to render the plan perfectly +uniform, and learning that a hundred and twenty seven were required +to complete this extraordinary embellishment, he ordered that number +of captives to be brought forth and slaughtered in cold blood. + +On visiting the bed-chamber of Bossa Ahadee, the passage leading to +it was found to be paved with human skulls. They were those of his +more distinguished adversaries, captured at different times, and +placed in that situation that he might nightly enjoy the savage +gratification of trampling on the heads of his enemies. The top of +the little wall, which surrounded this detached apartment, was +adorned likewise with their jaw-bones. In some more civilized minds +there is an instinctive dread on viewing the remains of a human +being; but it cannot be laid to the charge of these savages, that the +fear of ghosts and hobgoblins forms any part of their character. + +The immolation of victims is, however, not confined to this +particular period; for at any time, should it be necessary to send an +account to his forefathers of any remarkable event, the king +despatches a courier to the shades, by delivering his message to +whomsoever may happen to be near him, and then ordering his head to +be chopped off immediately; and it has not unfrequently happened, +that as something new has occurred to the king's mind, another +messenger, as Mr. Canning very justly observed of the postscript of a +letter, has instantly followed on the same errand, perhaps in itself +of the most trivial kind. + +It is considered a high honour where his majesty personally +condescends to become the executioner in these feats of decapitation, +an office in which the king, at the time of the visit of Lander to +Abomey, considered himself as a most expert proficient. The Europeans +were present on one occasion, when a poor fellow, whose fear of death +outweighing the sense of the honour conferred on him, on being +desired by the king to carry some message to his father, who was in +the shades below, humbly declared on his knees that he was ignorant +of the way, on which the tyrant vociferated, "I'll show you the way," +and with one blow made his head fly many yards from his body, highly +indignant that there should have been the least expression of +reluctance. + +The performance of the annual sacrifice is considered a duty so +sacred, that no allurement in the way of gain, no additional price +which the white traders can offer for slaves, will induce the king to +spare even a single victim of the established number; and he is +equally inexorable with respect to the chiefs of his enemies, who are +never, on any account, permitted to live if they fall into his hands. + +In illustration of the above, the following narrative is highly +characteristic, and serves at once to a clear exposition of the +savage and relentless feelings of the uncivilized negro. In a warlike +excursion towards the Mahee or Ashantee borders, an enemy's town was +surprised, and a great number of the inhabitants were either killed +or made prisoners; but especial care was taken that the head of the +prince of that district should be sent to Abomey, and that every +branch of his family should, if possible, be exterminated, for it was +one which had often given the Dahomian forces a great deal of +trouble. A merciless massacre, therefore, of these individuals took +place, in obedience to strict injunctions to that effect; and it was +believed that not one of the breed was left alive. + +A youth, however, about seventeen years of age, one of the sons of +the obnoxious prince, had managed to conceal his real quality, and +not being pointed out, succeeded in passing among the crowd of +prisoners to the Dahomian capital, where, after selecting that +portion thought necessary for the ensuing sacrifices, the captors +sent the remainder to Grigwee, to be sold at the factories. This +young man happened to be purchased by Mr. M'Leod, and he lived +thenceforth in the fort, as a sort of general rendezvous, or trunk, +as it is called, for those belonging to that department. + +In a short time after this transaction, it some how transpired at +Abomey that there yet lived the remnant of the enemy's family, and in +order to trace him out, the king fell upon a scheme, which strongly +displays that species of cunning and artifice so often observed among +savages. + +Some of his half-heads, who may very appropriately be termed his +mortal messengers, in contradistinction to the immortals sent to the +shades, arrived at the fort, and, with the Coke, a stern and +hardhearted villain, who, in the absence of the yavougah, was the +next caboceer, demanded admittance in the king's name, prostrating +themselves as usual, and covering their heads with dust. On +entering, they proceeded immediately to that quarter where the slaves +were, and repeated the ceremony of kissing the ground before they +spoke the _king's word,_ that is to say, delivered his message. The +Coke then made a long harangue, the purport of which was to signify +the king's regret that animosity should have so long existed between +him and the chief of that country which he had just despoiled, and to +express his sorrow for the fate of a family, which had suffered from +his displeasure, through false accounts and misrepresentations. For +this reason, he was now most anxious to make every reparation in his +power to a son yet remaining of that prince, and would readily +re-establish him in the rank and possessions of his father, could he +only find him out. Completely duped by this wile, the unsuspecting +lad exultingly exclaimed, "I am the son of the prince!"--"Then," +replied the Coke, with a hellish joy at having succeeded in his +object, "you are just the person we want." Upon which these +half-heads seized him, and began to bind his hands. Finding by this +time the real state of the case, which at first it was impossible to +comprehend, Mr. M'Leod strongly protested against their seizing a +slave whom he had regularly purchased, and complained loudly of the +insult offered to the company's fort; but all in vain. He then +earnestly entreated them to offer the king his own price, or +selection of goods, and to beg as a favour from Mr. M'Leod, that he +might be spared, strongly urging the plea also, that, when once +embarked, he would be as free from every apprehension, respecting +him, as if he had killed him. + +The Coke coolly replied, that Mr. M'Leod need not give himself any +further trouble to make any proposals, for he dared not repeat one of +them to the king; and, after an ineffectual struggle, Mr. M'Leod was +at last compelled to witness, with the most painful emotion, this +ill-fated youth dragged off in a state of the gloomiest despair, a +despair rendered more dismal from the fallacious glimpse of returning +happiness, by which he had been so cruelly entrapped. + +The party not being able to obtain the slightest information +respecting Mr. Dickson, retraced their steps, and rejoined Captain +Clapperton in the river Benin, where they met with an English +merchant, of the name of Houston, who advised them by no means to +think of proceeding by that river, a circuitous track, and covered +with pestilential swamps; and more particularly as the king bore a +particular hatred to the English for their exertions in putting an +end to the slave-trade, nor did he, Mr. Houston, know how far, or in +what direction, that river might lead them. He recommended Badagry as +the most convenient point on the coast to start from, and he offered +to accompany them across the mountains to Katunga, the capital of +Youriba. His offer was accepted, and Lander's journal commences with +their starting from Badagry, on the 7th December. They were also +attended by a Houssa black, of the name of Pascoe, who had been sent +from one of the king's ships to accompany the late enterprizing +traveller Belzoni, as interpreter, in his last and fatal journey. + +It appears, that during their stay at Whidah, every inquiry was made +after Bello and his messengers, but without the slightest success, +and equally so as to Funda and Raka, names never heard of on that +part of the coast. It is now known that these places are nearly two +hundred miles inland, and that Raka is not even on the banks of any +river, and that neither of them was then under the dominion of Bello. + +Badagry, the capital of a small territory, is situated at the mouth +of the Lagos river, in latitude 6° 20', and is much frequented by the +Portuguese slave-merchants, who have five factories there. Canoes +being obtained, the party proceeded slowly up a branch of this river, +as far as the mouth of the Gazie creek, which comes from the +north-west, running through part of the kingdom of Dahomy, having its +rise in the country called Keeto. They ascended this creek for about +a mile and a half, and then landed on the western bank, at a place +called Bawie, where a market is held for the people of Badagry and +the adjacent towns. The very first night, they were guilty of a fatal +imprudence. The banks of both these streams are low and covered with +reeds; the soil a red clay mixed with sand; and the surrounding +country is covered with forests of high trees and jungle. Not a hum +of a single mosquito was to be heard. Every circumstance combined to +create an atmosphere fatal to animal life, and the consequence of the +unaccountable disregard of all precaution on the part of the +travellers was too soon apparent. The seeds of those diseases were +here sown, in the very first night of their journey, which speedily +proved fatal to two of the party, and had nearly carried off the +whole. How an old naval surgeon and two experienced naval officers +could commit such an imprudence, in such a climate, is to us most +surprising, when most dreadful consequences are well known to have +almost invariably resulted from such a practice in tropical climates, + +On the 9th of December, they again slept in the open air, in the +market-place of Dagmoo, a large town, where they might have had as +many houses as they wanted. This reckless indifference to the +preservation of their health can only be accounted for on the +principle, that on an expedition attended by so many difficulties and +privations, it was deemed justifiable to attempt to inure the +constitution to the noxious influences of the climate, and to look +down with contempt upon any act which had the least tendency to +effeminacy, or a scrupulous attention to personal comfort. The +constitution of Clapperton was well known to have been of an iron +nature; it had already withstood the pestilential climate of some +parts of Soudan, in his previous travels, and, with that impression +upon his mind, he regarded, perhaps, with indifference, or more +likely with inattention, any effect which might arise from the marshy +and swampy country through which the party travelled in the +commencement of their journey. The disastrous sequel will, however, +soon manifest itself. + +One morning, Captain Clapperton walked forward with Mr. Houston to +the town of Puka, the first place in the Youriba territory, where +they were civilly received, and they were visited by one of the Eyeo +war-chiefs, who came in state. He was mounted on a small horse, as +were two of his attendants; the rest of the cavalcade were on foot. +His dress was most grotesque, consisting of a ragged red coat, with +yellow facings, and a military cap and feather, apparently +Portuguese. He came curvetting and leaping his horse, until within +the distance of a hundred yards, when he dismounted, and, approaching +the travellers, seated himself down on the ground. Captain +Clapperton, by the hand of Lander, sent him his umbrella, as a token +that he wished him well, on the receipt of which the drums were +beaten, and hands were clapped and fingers cracked at a great rate. +It must be observed, that the latter motion is the method of +salutation practised by the natives of Dahomy and Eyeo. The chief now +came up to them, capering and dancing the whole of the way, and shook +them by the hand, a few of his attendants accompanying him. Lander +informed us that he was not on this occasion honoured by the salute +of the Eyeo chief, and he attributed it to the nigh notion which the +chief entertained of his own dignity and importance, and that it +would be in him an act of great condescension to notice an individual +who was evidently but a subordinate, and an attendant upon his +superior. He, however, did not hesitate to steal a handkerchief +belonging to Lander, which perhaps he considered to be also an act of +condescension in him. Like other great men, who sometimes speak a +great deal, without much meaning or sense being discoverable in their +oration, the Eyeo chief began his speech by saying that he was very +glad that he now saw a white man, and he doubted not that white man +was equally glad to see him, and then, pointing to the various parts +of his dress, he said, "This cloth is not made in my country; this +cap is of white man's velvet; these trousers are of white man's +nankeen; this is a white man's shawl; we get all good things from +white man, and we must therefore be glad when white man come to visit +our country." Although not cheered at the conclusion of his speech, +like other great speakers, yet, on the other hand, like them in +general, he appeared to be very well satisfied with himself; and +Captain Clapperton, by his demeanour, fully gave him to understand +that he fully approved of the sentiments which flowed from his lips, +and that they were perfectly worthy of a chief of the Eyeo nation. + +The two men, who appeared next in authority to himself, were stout +good-looking men, natives of Bornou; they were dressed in the fashion +of that country, with blue velvet caps on their heads. Being +Mahometans, they could not be prevailed on to drink spirits, but the +captain and his men drank two drams. + +They paid a visit to the caboceer, or chief man of the town, whom +they found seated in the midst of his elders and women. He was an +ancient, tall, stupid-looking man, dressed in a long silk tobe, or +long shirt; on his head was a cap, made of small glass beads of +various colours, surrounded with tassels of small gold-coloured +beads, and three large coral ones in front. The cap was the best part +of the man, for it was very neat; in his hand he held a fly-flapper, +the handle of which was covered with beads. After a number of +compliments, they were presented with goroo nuts and water. They told +him of their intention to proceed to Eyeo; that they were servants of +the king of England; and that they wanted carriers for themselves and +baggage. + +The baggage, however, had not come up from the coast, and Captain +Pearce had to return to the beach and see after it. They remained +here for the night, and the old caboceer, their host, sent them a +present of a sheep, a basket of yams, and some firewood. But when, +the next morning, application was made to him for carriers, not a +single man could be obtained. After a great deal of palavering, the +Eyeo captain loaded his own people. They could not procure any +bearers for the hammocks, but they nevertheless set off, having only +one horse, which Captain Clapperton and Mr. Houston agreed to ride +alternately. The former, however, who had almost crippled himself the +preceding day, with a pair of new boots, and could only wear +slippers, became so galled by riding without a saddle, that he was +soon reduced to walk bare-foot, and whenever he crossed an ant path, +his feet felt as if on fire, these insects drawing blood from them +and his ankles. + +After a most toilsome and distressing march, part of which wound +through thick and dark woods, the morning proved raw, cold and hazy; +the travellers had nothing to eat, and when at noon they reached the +town of Humba, Captain Clapperton had a slight fit of ague. On the +following day, bearers were with some difficulty procured, and he was +carried forward in a hammock. At Bedgie, which they reached on the +12th, Dr. Morrison became very unwell with symptoms of fever. This +place stands on the banks of a river about a quarter of a mile in +width, full of low swampy islands and floating reeds. On the 14th, +Captain Pearce and Richard Lander were taken ill. + +They had by this, time reached Laboo, a town situated on a rising +ground, where the country begins to undulate in hill and dale. Its +distance from the coast is not specified, but it can hardly be so +much as fifty miles, as Lagos can be reached in one day by a +messenger, yet the journey had occupied the travellers no fewer than +seven days. The delay seems partly to have been occasioned by the +heavy baggage and stores, and by the difficulty of obtaining bearers. +The Eyeo people, as they were afterwards told, are unaccustomed to +carry hammocks, and they ought to have proceeded on horseback, in +fact, Lander did not hesitate to express himself in rather severe +terms, in regard to the manner in which the early part of the +expedition was conducted; for, had the plan been adopted of making +use of horses for the conveyance of the baggage, and not have allowed +themselves to be delayed by the difficulty of procuring human +assistance; had the whole party pressed forward to Laboo, and there +attempted to recruit their strength, it is highly probable that they +would have altogether escaped the poisonous effects of the miasmata. + +The country thus far appears to have been an almost perfect level; in +some places swampy, for the most part covered with dense forests, but +partially cultivated, and very populous. Towns and villages were +numerous, and everywhere on the road they were met by numbers of +people, chiefly women, bearing loads of produce on their heads, +always cheerful and obliging, and delighted to see white men. At +Humba, the inhabitants kept up singing and dancing all night, in the +true negro style, round the house allotted to the white men. Their +songs were in chorus, and, as Lander expressed himself, "not unlike +some church-music that I have heard." + +On leaving Laboo, they were attended for some distance by the +caboceer of the town, at the head of the whole population, the women +singing in chorus, and holding up both hands as they passed, while +groupes of people were seen kneeling down, and apparently wishing +them a good journey. The road now lay over an undulating country, +through plantations of millet, yams, and maize, and at three hours +from Laboo, led to Jannah, which was once a walled town, but the gate +and fosse are all that remain of the fortifications. It is situated +on a gentle declivity, commanding an extensive prospect to the +westward; to the eastward the view is interrupted by thick woods. The +inhabitants may amount to from eight hundred to a thousand souls. The +account which Lander gave us of the natives of this district was +highly favourable. He had only to complain of the eternal loquacity +of the women, by which he was exceedingly annoyed; in addition to +which, they appeared sometimes to be highly offended because, as he +was ignorant of their language, he very often committed the most +extraordinary blunders, in the answers which he gave by signs, and +which were wholly opposite to what they had every reason to expect, +from the significant language which they made use of. The women here +are, however, not much better treated than in more central Africa; +not only the domestic duties are performed by them, but in all +matters of industry the labour appears to be imposed upon them, +whilst their husbands or owners are loitering away their time, +telling unaccountable stories to each other, or sleeping under the +shade of some of the beautiful trees which adorn this part of the +country. + +Very differently is it constituted with the canine species; for here +the dog is treated with respect, and made the companion of man; here +he has collars round his neck, of various colours, and ornamented +with kowries; he sits by his master, and follows him in all his +journeys and visits. The great man is never without one; and it +appeared to Lander that a boy was appointed to take care of him. In +no other country in Africa is this faithful animal treated with +common humanity. + +The general character of the people of Eyeo appears to be good and +amiable, and, as a proof of their honesty, to which all the +travellers bore ample testimony, they had now travelled sixty miles +in eight days, with a numerous and heavy baggage, and about ten +different relays of carriers, without losing so much as the value of +a shilling, public or private; a circumstance evincing not only +somewhat more than common honesty in the inhabitants, but a degree of +subordination and regular government, which could not have been +supposed to exist among a people hitherto considered as barbarous. It +appears, however, that the Eyeo captain, Adamooli, had not quite so +high an opinion of their spontaneous honesty; for he told the +travellers, at Puka, to keep a good look-out after their things, as +the people there were great thieves. + +In some branches of the arts they possess an extraordinary skill. +They are great carvers; their doors, drums, and every thing of wood +being carved. In the weaving of cloth and linen they also evinced +considerable skill. Eight or ten looms were seen at work in one +house; in fact it was a regular manufactory. Captain Clapperton +visited several cloth manufactories, and three dye-houses, with +upwards of twenty vats in each, all in full work. The indigo is of +excellent quality, and the cloth of a good texture; some of it very +fine. The women are the dyers, the boys the weavers, the men, in +general, lookers on. The loom and shuttles are on the same principle +as the common English loom, but the warp is only four inches wide. +They also manufacture earthen-ware, but prefer that of Europe, which +they obtain from Badagry. In walking through the town, the strangers +were followed by an immense crowd, but met with not a word nor a look +of disrespect. The men took off their caps as they passed, and the +women remained kneeling. The market was well supplied with raw +cotton, cloths, oranges, limes, plantains, bananas, onions, pepper, +and gums for soup, boiled yams, and acassous, a paste made of maize +and wrapped in leaves. + +A country finely cleared, and diversified with hill and dale, extends +from Jannah to Tshow, distant two short stages. The route then again +entered upon a thickly-wooded tract, with only patches of corn land, +and the roads were dreadfully bad, being partially flooded by heavy +rains. Captain Clapperton here caught a fresh cold, and all the +patients became worse. Dr. Morrison, after being carried in a hammock +as far as Tshow, finding himself grow no better, was left behind, +under the charge of Mr. Houston, who was to see him safe back to the +coast. He, however, expired at Jannah on the 27th. On the same day, +at a town called Engwa, Captain Pearce breathed his last. On this +occasion, Captain Clapperton says, "The death of Captain Pearce has +caused me much concern; for, independently of his amiable qualities +as a friend and companion, he was eminently fitted by his talents, +perseverance, and fortitude, to be of singular service to the +expedition, and on these accounts I deplore his loss, as the greatest +I could have sustained, both as regards my private feelings and the +public service." + +On the following morning, the remains of this lamented officer were +interred, in the presence of all the principal people of the town. +The grave was staked round by the inhabitants, and a shed built over +it. An inscription was carved on a board, and placed at the head of +the grave by Lander, Captain Clapperton being unable to sit up, or to +assist in any manner in the mournful ceremony. Thus did Captain +Clapperton see himself bereft of his comrades, and left to pursue his +journey in very painful and distressing circumstances, with only +Richard Lander as his servant, who stood by him in all his fortunes, +and Pascoe, not a very trusty African, whom he had hired at Badagry. +Two days after the interment of Captain Pearce, Mr. Houston joined +Captain Clapperton from Jannah, bearing the intelligence of the death +of Dr. Morrison. + +These unfortunate officers had been conveyed thus far, about seventy +miles, in hammocks, by the people of the country, every where +experiencing the kindest attention, lodged in the best houses, and +supplied with every thing that the country afforded. The fear, +however, that continually preyed upon the mind of Lander was +excessive; for the general appearance of Captain Clapperton indicated +that he would soon join his comrades in the grave; he was able +occasionally to ride on horseback, and sometimes to walk, but he was +greatly debilitated, and subject to a high degree of fever. By +anticipation, Lander saw himself a solitary wanderer in the interior +of Africa, bereft of all those resources with which Clapperton was +liberally supplied, and his only hope of deliverance resting on his +being able to accomplish his return to Badagry, literally as a +Christian mendicant. Lander describes the country between Badagry and +Jannah, the frontier town of the kingdom of Youriba, as abounding in +population, well cultivated with plantations of Indian corn, +different kinds of millet, yams, plantains, wherever the surface was +open and free from the noxious influence of dense and unwholesome +forests. + +The old caboceer of Jannah was, according to the report of Lander, a +merry, jocose kind of companion. On one occasion, when he was +surrounded by a whole crowd of the natives, and was informed that the +English had only one wife, they all broke out into a loud laugh, in +which the women in particular joined immoderately. The vanity of this +old negro almost exceeded belief; during the ceremony of the +reception of Captain Clapperton and Mr. Houston, he changed his dress +three different times, each time, as he thought, increasing the +splendour of his appearance. + +The whole court in which they were received, although very large, was +filled, crowded, and crammed with people, except a place in front, +where the august strangers sat, into which his highness led Captain +Clapperton and Mr. Houston, in each hand, followed by Lander, who, +ever and anon, first to the right, and then to the left, felt a +twitch at the tail of his coat, and on looking to ascertain the +cause, found it to have proceeded from the _fair_ hands of a +bewitching negress, who, casting upon him a look of irresistible +fascination, accompanied by a smile from a pair of huge pouting lips, +between which appeared a row of teeth, for which one of the toothless +grannies at Almack's would have given half her dowry, seemed to be +anxious of trying the experiment of how far the heart of an +Englishman was susceptible of the tender passion, especially when +excited by objects of such superlative beauty. It may be supposed +that neither Clapperton nor Houston had as yet taken any lessons in +the art and mystery of African dancing, and as to waltzing, neither +of them felt any great inclination to be encircled in the arms of a +negress, who, although she might be young and graceful in her +attitudes, had a scent about her of stinking rancid oil, which was +not very agreeable to the olfactory nerves of the delicate Europeans. +However, it was the etiquette of the court,--and every court, from +the Cape of Good Hope to the country of Boothia, that is, if a court +were ever held in the latter place,--is cursed with the ridiculous +forms of ceremony and etiquette; it must be repeated, that at the +court which his highness the caboceer of Jannah, in the plenitude of +his official importance, held at that place, it was a rule of +etiquette, that every stranger, of whatever rank or nation, should +choose for himself a partner, wherewith to dance an African fandango +or bolero; and it may be easily supposed that, when the Europeans +looked around them, and saw the African beauties squatting on their +haunches, or reclining, in graceful negligence, on banks of mud, a +great difficulty existed as to whom they should select to be their +partners in the African quadrille. We have ourselves been in a +ball-room where the beating of the female heart was almost audible, +when the object of its secret attachment approached to lead out the +youthful beauty to the dancing circle; and although it cannot be +supposed, that, on so short an acquaintance, the heart of any +beautiful negress palpitated at the approach of Captain Clapperton, +Mr. Houston, or the more timid and bashful Lander, yet it was evident +that the negresses, who were selected as their partners, testified +their unqualified delight at the honour conferred upon them by a +grin, which in a civilized country would be called a smile, but which +happened to be of that extent, as if nature had furnished them with a +mouth extending from ear to ear, similar to the opening of the jaws +of a dogger codfish. The Taglionis and Elsters of the court were +present; and although a latitude of a few degrees to the northward of +the line is not exactly suitable for pirouetting and tourbillons, +which, in a negress in a state of almost complete nudity, could not +fail to attract the doting eyes even of the bishop of London, or of +Sir Andrew Agnew, particularly on the Sabbath; yet, on this occasion, +the beauties of the court attempted to outvie each other in the +gracefulness of their attitudes, and the extraordinary height of +their salutations. There is very little doubt but that the _tout +ensemble_ would have formed an excellent subject for a Cruickshanks, +and particularly to take a sketch of the old black caboceer, sailing +majestically around in his damask robe, with a train-bearer behind +him, and every now and then turning up his old withered face, first +to one of his visitors, and then to the other; then whisking round on +one foot, and treading without ceremony on the shoeless foot of his +perspiring partner, then marching slow, with solemn gait, like the +autocrat of all the Russias in a polonnaise, then, not exactly +leading gracefully down the middle, but twining the hands of his +visitors in his, which had very much the appearance of a piebald +affair, showing at the same time an extraordinary inflation of pride, +that a white man should dance with him. But the fate of Lander was +the most to be commiserated; for although it might be the etiquette +of his country, that master and servant should not be quadrilling at +the same time, yet as no such distinction existed in the court of the +old caboceer of Jannah, as far as the sentiments of the female +beauties were concerned, poor Lander led the very devil of a life of +it. He certainly, as it would have been highly unbecoming in him, did +not solicit the hand of any of the expectant beauties, and therefore, +giving him all due credit for his extreme bashfulness and insuperable +modesty, they were determined to solicit his; he was first twirled +round by one beauty, then by another; at one moment he found himself +in a state of juxta position with the old caboceer; at another, his +animated partner was nearly driving him into a state of positive +collision with his own master; in fact he was, like Tom at Almack's, +putting the whole of the dancers into confusion, from his ignorance +of the intricacies of the African dance, and his total inability to +compete with his partner in her gymnastic evolutions. One of the most +graceful movements, according to the opinion of the natives, consists +in a particular part of the body, situated, as the metaphysicians +would term it, _a posteriori,_ coming into contact with a similar +part of the body of the partner, with as much violence as the +physical strength of the female dancer can effect; and if on any of +these occasions the equilibrium should be lost, and the weaker +individual laid prostrate upon the ground, the laugh then sounds +throughout the whole assembly, and the beauty is highly extolled, who +by her prowess could have so well effected the prostration of her +partner. Now it is very possible, that when a person knows of an evil +coming over him, he will be so upon his guard as to prevent any +disastrous consequences arising from it; but Lander not being aware +that any accident could befall him from any movement of the lady who +had selected him, much against his will, as her partner, was footing +it away very composedly and becomingly, when a tremendous blow was +inflicted on a certain part of the hinder portion of his body, which +being as irresistible as if it had come from a battering-ram of the +Romans, laid him prostrate on the floor, to the infinite delight of +all the fashionables of the court, particularly the female part, who +testified their joy by the utterance of the loudest laughs and +clapping their hands in an extacy of mirth. In fact, the travellers +entered into all the humours of the day, and thus, as Captain +Clapperton expressed himself, "cheered we our old friend, and he was +cheered." + +The country between Tshow and Engwa, where the ground has been +cleared, is described by Lander as excessively beautiful, diversified +by hills and dales, a small stream running through each valley. All +the towns, however, are situated in the bosom of an inaccessible +wood. The approach is generally through an avenue, defended by three +stockades, with narrow wicker gates, and only one entrance. Beyond +Engwa, the state of the atmosphere becomes much improved, the country +being clear and gradually rising, and on the high grounds, large +blocks of grey granite cropped out, indicated their approach to a +range of primitive mountains. The plains were covered with the female +cocoa nut, and with long high grass. Walled towns occur at the end of +short stages, each containing from five to ten thousand inhabitants. +Those at which the travellers halted were called Afoura, Assula, +Assonda, and Chocho. At Afoura, the granite formation began to show +itself. Assula is surrounded with a wall and a ditch, and contains +about six thousand inhabitants. At these places, the travellers were +abundantly supplied with provisions, and regaled with dancing and +singing the whole night, by the apparently happy natives. + +On leaving the town of Chocho, the road wound through beautiful +valleys, planted in many places with cotton, corn, yams, and bananas +and on the tops and hollows of the hills were perched the houses and +villages of the proprietors of these plantations. At this very time, +however, "a slaving war," was being carried on at only a few hours +ride from the route taken by the travellers; such is the withering +curse that hangs over the fairest regions of this devoted country. + +The next stage from Bendekka to Duffoo, lay through mountain scenery +of a still wilder character. Rugged and gigantic blocks of grey +granite rose to the height of between six and seven hundred feet +above the valleys, which now contracted to defiles scarcely a hundred +yards in breadth, then widened to half a mile, and in one part the +route crossed a wide table land. The soil is rich, but shallow, +except along the fine streams of water which run through the valleys, +where large tall trees were growing. The sides of the mountains are +bare, but stunted trees and shrubs fill all the crevices. The valleys +are well cultivated with cotton, corn, and yams. This cluster of +hills is said to rise in the province of Borgoo, behind Ashantee, and +to run through Jaboo to Benin, in a direction from W.N.W. to E.S.E. +The width of the range is about eighty miles. + +From a summit overlooking the town of Duffoo, a grand and beautiful +view was obtained of mountains, precipices, and valleys in every +direction. The top of the hill was covered with women grinding corn. +This mount might be almost called a large corn mill. Here and in +every other place, the king of Eyeo's wives were found trading for +his majesty, and like women of the common class, carrying large loads +on their heads from town to town. The town of Daffoo is said to +contain a population of 15,000 souls. On leaving it the road wound +between two hills, descending over rugged rocks, beneath impending +masses of granite, which seemed ready to start from their base, to +the destruction of all below. It continued to ascend and descend as +far as the town of Woza, which stands on the edge of a table-land, +gently descending, well cultivated, and watered by several streams. +The stage terminated at another fortified town called Chradoo, +containing upwards of seven thousand inhabitants. + +On leaving this town on the following morning, they were attended by +the worthy caboceer, and an immense train of men, women, and +children; the women singing in chorus, whilst drums, horns, and +gongs, formed a barbarous and discordant accompaniment to their +agreeable voices. A difficult and dangerous road over broken rocks, +and through rugged passes, where the natives were perched in groups +to see the travellers pass, led in five hours to the large and +populous town of Erawa. Here they were received with drums, the +people as usual curious beyond measure, but very kind. The next day a +mountain pass led through a thickly populous tract, to a town called +Washoo, beyond which place they entered a second range of mountains, +more elevated and of a more savage character, than any they had +hitherto passed; they appeared as if some great convulsion of nature +had thrown the immense masses of granite in wild and terrific +confusion. The road through this mountain pass, according to the +information of Lander, was grand and imposing, sometimes rising +almost perpendicularly, then descending in the midst of rocks into +deep dells; then winding beautifully round the side of a steep hill, +the rocks above overhanging them in fearful uncertainty. In every +cleft of the hills, wherever there appeared the least soil, were +cottages, surrounded with small plantations of millet, yams, and +plantains, giving a beautiful variety to the rude scenery. The road +continued rising, hill above hill, for at least two miles, until +their arrival at the large and populous town of Chaki, situated on +the top of the very highest hill. On every hand, on the hills, on the +rocks, and crowding on the road, the inhabitants were assembled in +thousands, the women welcoming them with holding up their hands, and +chanting choral songs, and the men with the usual salutations, and +every demonstration of joy. The caboceer was seated on the outside of +his house, surrounded by his ladies, his singing men, and singing +women, his drums, fifes, and gong-gongs. He was a good-looking man, +about fifty years of age, with a pleasing countenance. His house was +all ready for the reception of the strangers, and he immediately +procured for them a large supply of goats, sheep, and yams, pressing +them strongly to stay a day or two with them. He appeared to consider +them as messengers of peace, come with blessings to his king and +country. Indeed a belief was very prevalent, and seems to have gone +before them all the way, that they were charged with a commission to +make peace wherever there was war, and to do good to every country +through which they passed. The caboceer of this town indeed told them +so, and said he hoped that they would be enabled to settle the war +with the Nyffee people and the Fellatas, and the rebellion of the +Houssa slaves, who had risen against the king of Yariba. When Lander +shook hands with him, he passed his hand over the heads of his +chiefs, as confirming on them a white man's blessing. He was more +inquisitive and more communicative than any one whom they had yet +seen. He sat until nearly midnight, talking and inquiring about +England. On asking, if he would send one of his sons to see England, +he rose up with alacrity, and said, he would go himself. He inquired +how many wives an Englishman had. On being told only one, he seemed +much astonished, and laughed greatly, as did all his people. "What +does he do," said he, "when one of his wives has a child? Our +caboceer has two thousand!!" + +On leaving Chaka, the caboceer escorted them several miles, attended +by upwards of two hundred of his wives, _one_ of whom was young and +handsome. The country was now extremely beautiful, clear of wood, and +partly cultivated; and a number of Fellata villages were passed, the +inhabitants of which live here as they do in most other parts of +Soudan, a quiet and inoffensive pastoral life, unmolested by the +black natives, and not interfering with their customs. + +The next stage led to Koosoo, the largest town they had yet seen, +surrounded with a double wall, and containing at least twenty +thousand people. This place appears to stand at the northwestern +termination of the granite range, the outer wall extending from some +rugged hills on the S.E., to a great distance in the plain. Here the +same favourable impression respecting the whites was found to prevail +as at Chaki. The walls were crowded with people, and the caboceer, +with his wives and head men, came forth to welcome the strangers. He +was glad, he said, to see white men coming to his country, and going +to see his king, adding that he never expected to see this day, and +that now all the wars and bad palavers would be settled. He presented +to them yams, eggs, a goat, a sheep, a fine fat turkey, and milk, and +a large pig was sent by the caboceer of a neighbouring town. The +country was described as being on every side full of large towns. Its +aspect continued through the next stage very beautiful, and well +cultivated. The route lay in a parallel line with the hills as far as +the town of Yaboo, and then entered a fine plain, studded with +Fellata villages, extending to Ensookosoo. At Sadooli, half an hour +further, the range of hills was seen bearing from E. by S. to S. The +well cultivated country continued as far as Aggidiba, but a +considerable change then took place in its general aspect. The road +led through a wood of low, stunted, scrubby trees, on a soil of +gravel and sand, and the destructive ravages of the Fellatas now +became apparent, in the half deserted towns and ruined villages. +Akkibosa, the next town, was large, and surrounded inside the walls +with an impenetrable wood. It was here that Lander again had the +melancholy prospect of seeing himself a lonely wanderer in the wilds +of Africa, for Captain Clapperton became worse than he had been since +leaving Badagry. The pain in his side was relieved by rubbing the +part with a piece of cord, after some Mallegeta pepper chewed had +been applied to it. But the caboceer of Adja gave our traveller some +medicine, which was far more efficacious. It tasted like lime juice +and pepper, and produced nausea to such a degree, that Clapperton was +unable to stand for half an hour after; he then suddenly got well, +both as to the pain in his side, and a severe diarrhoea, which had +troubled him for some time. The worthy caboceer, who had shown +himself such an adept in practical pathology, was of the same opinion +with others of his species, that a preventive is better than a +remedy; but were this principle to be acted upon by the medical +caboceers of the metropolis of England, we should not see them +driving in their carriages from 10 A.M. to 4 P.M. to convince a set +of dupes, that a few latinized words and hieroglyphics scrawled on a +scrap of paper, which is to produce for them a nauseous compound of +aperient drugs, are to save them from the jaws of death. Captain +Clapperton was in reality ill, and therefore the application of the +prescription of the scientific caboceer of Adja, was perhaps +advisable, on the ground that if it did not cure it would kill, but +the case was differently situated with Lander, for although his +health had sustained some severe shocks, yet it was good in +comparison to that of his master; but the prudent caboceer considered +that although he was not then actually ill, yet the possibility, and +even the probability existed that he might become so, and therefore +it was determined that the same medicine should be administered to +Lander, as had been done to his master. Lander, however, protested +that he did not stand in need of so potent a medicine, on the other +hand, the caboceer protested that he was a great fool to entertain +any such an opinion, and following the practice of the celebrated Dr. +Sangrado, Lander was obliged to undergo the purgatory of the +caboceer's medicine, and he was ready to admit that he did not feel +himself the worse for it after its effects had subsided. The town of +Adja is remarkable for an avenue of trees, with a creeping briar-like +plant ascending to the very tops, and hanging down so as to form an +impenetrable defence against every thing but a snake, and it is +impossible to burn it. Leaving their medical friend, the caboceer of +Adja, they proceeded to Loko, which is also a considerable walled +town; and on proceeding about four miles further, they came to a +groupe of three towns, one walled and two without walls, all bearing +the name of Soloo. + +The approach to the town of Tshow was through a beautiful valley, +planted with large shady trees and bananas, having green plots and +sheets of water running through the centre, where the dingy beauties +of Tshow were washing their well-formed limbs, while the sheep and +goats were grazing around on their verdant banks. This state of +repose is stated, however, to be frequently disturbed by inroads from +the neighbouring kingdom of Borgho, the natives of which are +described as thieves and plunderers, and as the travellers were now +close on its borders, they thought it necessary to brush up their +arms. + +In the evening, however, a caboceer arrived with a large escort of +horse and foot from Katunga, the capital of Youriba, and having +shaken hands with the travellers, immediately rubbed his whole body, +that the blessing of their touch might be spread all over him. The +escort was so numerous, that they ate up all the provisions of the +town. Every corner was filled with them, and they kept drumming, +blowing, dancing, and singing during the whole of the night. + +On leaving this place, the road through which they passed was wide, +though woody, and covered by men on horseback and bowmen on foot; the +horsemen, armed with two or three long spears, hurrying on as fast as +they could get the travellers to proceed; horns and country drums +blowing and beating before and behind; some of the horsemen dressed +in the most grotesque manner; others covered all over with charms. +The bowmen had also their natty little hats and feathers, with the +jebus, or leathern pouch, hanging by their side. These men always +appeared to Captain Clapperton to be the best troops in this country +and that of Soudan, on account of their lightness and activity. The +horsemen, however, are but ill mounted, the animals are small and +badly dressed; their saddles so ill secured, and the rider sits so +clumsily in his seat, that any Englishman who ever rode a horse with +an English saddle, would upset one of them the first charge with a +long stick. The party were also attended by a great number of +traders. After passing over a granite ridge, commanding a beautiful +view of fine wooded valleys to the eastward, the road again crossed +the Moussa, running to the Quorra, which is only three days distant. + +From the brow of a hill the great capital of Eyeo opened to the view, +on the opposite side of a vast plain bordered by a ridge of granite +hills, and surrounded by a brilliant belt of verdure. The approach to +Katunga is thus described by Clapperton: "Between us and it lay a +finely cultivated valley, extending as far as the eye could reach to +the westward, our view to the eastward intercepted by a high rock, +broken into large blocks, with a singular top, the city lying below +us, surrounded and studded with green, shady trees, forming a belt +round the base of a rocky mountain of granite, about three miles in +length, presenting as beautiful a view as I ever saw." + +They entered the city by the north gate, accompanied by a band of +music, and followed by an immense multitude of men, women, and +children. After proceeding about five miles through the city, they +reached the residence of the king, who received them seated under a +verandah; the insignia of his state being two red and blue cloth +umbrellas, supported by large poles held by slaves. He was dressed in +a white tobe over another of blue; round his neck was a collar of +large beads of blue stone, and on his head the imitation of a +European crown in pasteboard, covered with blue cotton. The king's +people had some difficulty in clearing the way for the strangers +through the crowd, and sticks and whips were freely used, though +generally in a good-natured manner. When they had at last got as far +as the umbrellas, the space was all clear. The chiefs were observed +to be holding a parley with the king, which Clapperton conjectured to +relate to his being desired to perform the usual ceremony of +prostration. On this, Captain Clapperton told them, that the only +ceremony he would submit to was that of an English salute; that he +would take off his hat, make a bow, and shake hands with his majesty, +if he pleased. The ceremony of prostration is required from all. +The chiefs, who come to pay their court, cover themselves with dust, +and then fall flat on their bellies, having first practised the +ceremony, in order to be perfect, before a large fat eunuch. It is +also the court etiquette to appear in a loose cloth, tied under one +arm; no tobes, no beads, no coral, nor grandeur of any kind, must +appear, but on the king alone. In many points of the ceremonial, in +the umbrellas, the prostrations, the sticks and whips so +good-naturedly inflicted on the crowd, and the extraordinary +politeness practised by these people to each other, we have a +singular approximation to the customs of the celestial empire. The +theatrical entertainments, too, which are acted before the king, are +quite as amusing, and almost as refined, as any which his celestial +majesty can command to be exhibited before a foreign ambassador. The +king of Youriba made a point of the travellers staying to witness one +of these theatrical entertainments. It was exhibited in the king's +park, in a square place, surrounded by clumps of trees. The first +performance was that of a number of men dancing and tumbling about in +sacks, having their heads fantastically decorated with strips of +rags, damask silk, and cotton of variegated colours, and they +performed to admiration. The second exhibition was hunting the boa +snake by the men in the sacks. The huge snake, it seems, went through +the motions of this kind of reptile in a very natural manner, though +it appeared to be rather full in the belly, opening and shutting its +mouth in the most natural manner imaginable. A running fight ensued, +which lasted some time, till at length the chief of the bagmen +contrived to scotch its tail with a tremendous sword, when he gasped, +twisted up, and seemed in great torture, endeavouring to bite his +assailants, who hoisted him on their shoulders, and bore him off in +triumph. The festivities of the day concluded with the exhibition of +the _white devil,_ which had the appearance of a human figure in +white wax, looking miserably thin, and as if starved with cold, +taking snuff, rubbing its hands, treacling the ground as if +tender-footed, and evidently meant to burlesque and ridicule a white +man, while his sable majesty frequently appealed to Clapperton, +whether it was not well performed. After this, the king's women sang +in chorus, and were accompanied by the whole crowd. + +The method of salutation is very singular. The king, for instance, on +saluting Captain Clapperton, lifted up his hands three times, +repeating, "Ako! ako!" (How do you do?) the women behind him standing +up and cheering them, and the men on the outside joined. It was +impossible to count the number of his ladies, they were so densely +packed, and so very numerous. + +In a private visit subsequently paid to the travellers, the king +assured them that they were truly welcome; that he had frequently +heard of white men; but that neither himself nor his father, nor any +of his ancestors, had ever seen one. He was glad that white men had +come at this time, and now, he trusted, his country would be put +right, his enemies brought to submission, and he would be enabled to +build up his father's house, which the war had destroyed. + + + +CHAPTER XXVI. + +The city of Eyeo, in Houssa language, Katunga, the capital of +Youriba, is situated in latitude 8° 59' N., longitude 6° 12 E. It is +built on the sloping side and round the base of a small range of +granite hills, which, as it were, forms the citadel of the town. They +are formed of stupendous blocks of grey granite of the softest kind, +some of which are seen hanging from the summits in the most frightful +manner, while others, resting on very small bases, appear as if the +least touch would send them down into the valley beneath. The soil on +which the town is built is formed of clay and gravel, mixed with +sand, which has obviously been produced from the crumbling granite. +The appearance of these hills is that of a mass of rocks left bare by +the tide. A belt of thick wood runs round the walls, which are built +of clay, and about twenty feet high, and surrounded by a dry ditch. +There are ten gates in the walls, which are about fifteen miles in +circumference, of an oval shape, about four miles in diameter one +way, and six miles the other; the south end leaning against the rocky +hills, and forming an inaccessible barrier in that quarter. The +king's houses, and those of his women, occupy about a square mile, +and are on the south side of the hills, having two large parks, one +in front and another facing the north; they are all built of clay, +and have thatched roofs, similar to those nearer the coast. The posts +supporting the verandahs and the doors of the king's or caboceer's +houses are generally carved in has relief, with figures representing +the boa killing an antelope or a hog, or with processions of warriors +attended by drummers. The latter are by no means meanly executed, +conveying the expression and attitude of the principal man in the +groupe with a lofty air, and the drummer well pleased with his own +music, or rather deafening noise. There are seven different markets, +which are held every evening, being generally opened about three or +four o'clock. The chief articles exposed for sale are yams, corn, +calavances, plantains and bananas, vegetable butter, seeds of the +colocynth, which form a great article of food, sweetmeats, goats, +sheep, and lambs, also cloth of the manufacture of the country, and +their various instruments of agriculture. The price of a small goat +is from 1,500 to 2,000 kowries; 2,000 kowries being equal to a +Spanish dollar; a large sheep, 3,000 to 5,000; a cow, from 20,000 to +30,000; a horse, 80,000 to 100,000; a prime human being, as a slave, +40,000 to 60,000, about half the price of a horse! + +The kingdom of Youriba extends from Puka, within five miles of the +coast to about the parallel of 10° N., being bounded by Dahomy on the +north-west, Ketto and the Maha countries on the north, Borgoo on the +north-east, the Quorra to the east, Accoura, a province of Benin, to +the south-east, and Jaboo to the south-west. These are the positions +of the neighbouring countries, as given by Lander, although it is +difficult to reconcile them with the map; Borgoo seems rather to be +north-east, Dahomy west and southwest, Jaboo and Benin south-east. +If Badagry be included in Youriba, the southern boundary will be the +Bight of Benin. + +Dahomy, Alladah, Maha, and Badagry were claimed as tributaries; and +the king of Benin was referred to as an ally. The government is an +hereditary despotism, every subject being the slave of the king; but +its administration appears to have been for a long period mild and +humane. When the king was asked, whether the customs of Youriba +involved the same human sacrifices as those of Dahomy, his majesty +shook his head, shrugged up his shoulders, and exclaimed, "No, no! no +king of Youriba could sacrifice human beings." He added, but probably +without sufficient grounds for the vaunt, that, if he so commanded, +the king of Dahomy must also desist from the practice; that he must +obey him. It is, however, stated, on the authority of Lander, that +when a king of Youriba dies, the caboceer of Jannah, three other head +caboceers, four women, and a great many favourite slaves and women, +are obliged to swallow poison, given by fetish men in a parrot's egg; +should this not take effect, the person is provided with a rope to +hang himself in his own house. No public sacrifices are used, at +least no human sacrifices, and no one was allowed to die at the death +of the last king, as he did not die a natural death, having been +murdered by one of his own sons, though the religion of the people of +Youriba, as far as it could be comprehended by the travellers, +consisted in the worship of one God, to whom they also sacrifice +horses, cows, goats, sheep, and fowls. At the yearly feast, all these +animals are sacrificed at the fetish-house, in which a little of the +blood is spilled on the ground. The whole of them are then cooked, +and the king and all the people, men and women attending, partake of +the meat, drinking copiously of pitto (the country ale). It is +stated, moreover, that it depends on the will of the fetish-man, or +priest, whether a human being or a cow or other animal is to be +sacrificed. If a human being, it is always a criminal, and only one. +The usual spot where the feast takes place is a large open field +before the king's houses, under wide-spreading trees, where there are +two or three fetish houses. + +The usual mode of burying the dead in this country is, to dig a deep +narrow hole, in which the corpse is deposited in a sitting posture, +the elbows between the knees. A poor person is interred without any +ceremony; in honour of a rich man, guns are fired, and rum is drunk +over his grave, and afterwards in the house by his friends and +retainers. At the celebration of a marriage, pitto is circulated +freely amongst the guests. Wives are bought, and according to the +circumstances of the bridegroom, so is the price. The first question +asked by every caboceer and great man was, how many wives the king of +England, had, being prepared, it should seem, to measure his +greatness by that standard; but when they were told that he had only +one, (and, if they had felt disposed, they might have extended their +information, by telling the inquirers that she was too much for him,) +they gave themselves up to a long and ungovernable fit of laughter, +followed by expressions of pity and wonder how he could possibly +exist in that destitute condition. The king of Youriba's boast was, +that his wives, linked hand-in-hand, would reach entirely across the +kingdom. Queens, however, in Africa, are applied to various uses, +although in some countries at some distance to the northward, it is a +difficult question to solve, whether they be of any use at all, +except for the purpose of entailing an extraordinary expense upon the +people, who have to labour hard for the support of the royal +appendage, which is generally imported from a neighbouring country, +where pride, pauperism, and pomposity are particularly conspicuous. +It would be well for an admirer of queenship to take a trip to Eyeo, +to see to what uses queens can be applied; for there they are formed +into a body-guard, and their majesties were observed, in every part +of the kingdom, acting as porters, and bearing on their heads +enormous burdens, in which they again differ from the queens of the +more northern countries, where, fortunately for the natives of it, +they never _bear_ at all. The queens of Eyeo are, to all intents and +purposes, slaves, and so are also other queens; but then they are +slaves to foolish and ridiculous customs, to stiff starched +etiquette, and to ceremonies degrading to a rational being. + +The Eyeos, like other nations purely negro, are wholly unacquainted +with letters, or any form of writing; these are known only to the +Arabs or Fellatahs, who penetrate thither in small numbers; yet they +have a great deal of popular poetry. Every great man has bands of +singers of both sexes, who constantly attend him, and loudly +celebrate his achievements in extemporary poems. The convivial +meetings of the people, even their labours and journeys, are cheered +by songs composed for the occasion, and chanted often with +considerable taste. + +The military force of the kingdom consists of the caboceers and their +immediate retainers, which upon an average may be about one hundred +and fifty each, a force formidable enough when called out upon any +predatory excursion, but which would seem to be inadequate to the +defence of the territory, against the encroachments or inroads of the +Fellatahs, and other more warlike tribes. It was supposed by Captain +Clapperton that the army may be as numerous as that of any of the +kingdoms of Africa. No conjecture was offered as to the total +population, but nearly fifty towns occurred in the line of route, +each containing from six to seven thousand, and some fifteen to +twenty thousand souls, and from the crowds on the roads, the +population must be very considerable. + +The Youribanies struck the travellers as having less of the +characteristic features of the negro, than any other African race +which they had seen. Their lips are less thick, and their noses more +inclined to the aquiline shape than negroes in general. The men are +well made, and have an independent carriage. The women are almost +invariably of a more ordinary appearance than the men, owing to their +being more exposed to the sun, and to the drudgery they are obliged +to undergo, all the labours of the land devolving upon them. The +cotton plant and indigo are cultivated to a considerable extent, and +they manufacture the wool of their sheep into good cloth, which is +bartered with the people of the coast for rum, tobacco, European +cloth, and other articles. The medium of exchange throughout the +interior is the kowry shell, the estimated value of which has been +already given. Slaves, however, form the chief article of commerce +with the coast. A prime slave at Jannah is worth, sterling money, +from three to four pounds, according to the value set on the articles +of barter. Domestic slaves are never sold, except for misconduct. +His majesty was much astonished at learning that there are no slaves +in England. Upon the whole, the Youribanies appeared to be a gentle +and a kind people, affectionate to their wives and children, and to +one another, and under a mild, although a despotic government. + +Among the domestic animals of this country, there are horses of a +very small breed, but these are scarce. The horned cattle are also +small near the coast, but on approaching the capital, they are seen +as large as those in England; many of them have humps on their +shoulders, like those of Abyssinia. They have also sheep, both of the +common species, and of the African kind; hogs, muscovy ducks, fowls, +pigeons, and a few turkeys. "The people of Youriba," says Lander, +"are not very delicate in the choice of their food; they eat frogs, +monkeys, dogs, cats, rats, mice, and various other kinds of vermin. A +fat dog will always fetch a better price than a goat. Locusts and +black ants, just as they are able to take wing, are a great luxury. +Caterpillars are also held in very high estimation, they are stewed +and eaten with yams and _tuah._ Ants and locusts are fried in +butter." This statement of Lander, as far as regards the dog, is +somewhat at variance with the compliment paid to the Youribanies, for +their treatment of that faithful animal. + +The hyena and the leopard are said to be very common, and the lion is +found in some parts, but monkeys were the only wild animals seen by +the travellers. + +Although Clapperton and Lander remained at Katunga from January 23rd +to March 7th, and the mysterious Quorra was not more than thirty +miles distant to the eastward, he was not able to prevail upon the +king to allow him to visit it, but was always put off with some +frivolous excuse, and in these excuses, the old gentleman appears to +have been as cunning and as cautious as a Chinese mandarin; observing +at one time that the road was not safe; at another, that the Fellatas +had possession of the country, and what would the king of England say +if any thing should happen to his guest. The greatest difficulty was +experienced in getting away from Katunga, for his majesty could not +or would not comprehend why he should be in any hurry to depart, and +by way of an inducement, but which secretly might have a very +opposite effect to that which was intended, Clapperton and Lander +were both offered any wife they chose to select from his stock, and +if one were not sufficient, five or six might be selected; for +himself he had plenty, although he could not exactly tell their +number, but if Clapperton would stop, the experiment should be tried, +of how far they would reach hand to hand; even this gracious offer +appeared to have no influence upon the obstinate disposition of +Clapperton, he was determined to leave Katunga and reach Bornou +before the rains set in, but the king was equally determined that he +should not carry his project into execution, for, like all the other +African princes, he seemed disposed to make a monopoly of the +strangers who entered his territory. His majesty hinted that one +journey was well and fully employed in seeing the kingdom of Youriba, +and paying the required homage to its potent monarch. + +It is curious how etiquette forms a part of every court, from a +latitude of 52° north, to one almost immediately under the equator, +and it must be admitted that if a school of instruction were +established at the former one, wherein the debutants might perfect +themselves in their various gestures and attitudes, we should not +behold such a number of awkward louts, and johnny raw's, as exhibit +themselves at the levee room of the king of the Guelphs. In the +capital of Eyeo, it is the custom of the court, for the monarch to +hold a levee twice a day, at six in the morning, and two in the +afternoon; rather hot work for the courtiers, perspiring in a +temperature of about 120°. The son of a Highland clansman, or of an +Irish bogtrotter, is ushered into the presence of his sovereign with +very little preliminary instruction; not so however with the more +refined and polished court of Katunga. There, before the legitimate +or illegitimate sons of royalty and nobility, or even of the +plebeians are introduced to the king, they are required to wait upon +the chief eunuch, a kind of African lord chamberlain, and before whom +they are required to practise their prostrations and genuflexions, so +as not to commit themselves in the presence of their august monarch. +The finished courtier at the court of the Guelphs, is known by the +grace with which he seizes the hand of royalty, to imprint upon it a +slobbering kiss; and the caboceer at the court of Katunga, is known +by the grace with which he covers himself with dust, and the +intensity of his homage is estimated according to the quantity of the +article which he throws over himself. It must have been a delectable +treat for the Europeans to have been present at one of these +academies of court etiquette, where the old and young were practising +their prostrations before the ugly antiquated eunuch, and who +hesitated not to give his pupils a kick, when any of them evinced an +extraordinary awkwardness in their attitudes. During the whole of the +time that the prostrations were practising, the attendants were +dancing in a circle, with now and then the interlude of a minuet by +one of the performers, in the course of which he would frequently +throw a somerset, as expert as old Grimaldi, and all this under a +burning tropical sun. These caboceers were dressed in robes of +leopard skin, hung round with tassels and chains, and in a short time +afterwards about twenty of them, in all their dirt and debasement, +stretched at full length before the king, stripped to the waist, and +vying with each other, which should have the most dust, and kiss the +ground with the greatest fervour. When any one speaks to the king, it +must be addressed to him through the eunuch, who is prostrated by the +side of his master. + +On the 7th March, the travellers resumed their journey into the +interior, and retracing their steps to Tshow, reached at noon the +next day, the town of Algi, which was just rising from its ruins +after the Fellata, inroad of the preceding year. All the intermediate +villages had shared the same fate. Algi, according to the information +received, no longer belonged to Youriba, but to the sultan of Kiama. +It comprised three small villages, and before it was burnt down had +been of considerable size. These marauders have a singular mode of +setting fire to walled towns, by fastening combustibles to the tails +of pigeons, which, on being loosed, fly to the tops of the thatched +houses, while the assailants keep up a sharp fire of arrows, to +prevent the inhabitants from extinguishing the flames. + +On the 11th, the travellers once more crossed the Moussa, which +formerly divided the kingdoms of Youriba and Borgoo. It was now dry +in a great many places, with a very rocky bed; when full, it is about +thirty yards in breadth, and flows with a very strong current. On the +other side, the road to Kiama lay through a flat country, thickly +wooded with fine trees, and inhabited by large antelopes. These +creatures are the most lively, graceful, and beautifully proportioned +of the brute creation. Wherever known, they have attracted the +attention and admiration of mankind from the earliest ages, and the +beauty of their dark and lustrous eyes affords a frequent theme to +the poetical imaginings of the eastern poets. The antelopes seen by +Lander are by the Dutch called springbok, and inhabit the great +plains of central Africa, and assemble in vast flocks during their +migratory movements. These migrations, which are said to take place +in their most numerous form only at the intervals of several years, +appear to come from the north-east, and in masses of many thousands, +devouring, like locusts, every green herb. The lion has been seen to +migrate, and walk in the midst of the compressed phalanx, with only +as much space between him and his victims as the fears of those +immediately round could procure by pressing outwards. The foremost of +these vast columns are fat, and the rear exceedingly lean, while the +direction continues one way; but with the change of the monsoon, when +they return towards the north, the rear become the leaders, fattening +in their turn, and leaving the others to starve, and to be devoured +by the numerous rapacious animals, who follow their march. At all +times, when impelled by fear, either of the hunter or beasts of prey +darting amongst the flocks, but principally when the herds are +assembled in countless multitudes, so that an alarm cannot spread +rapidly and open the means of flight, they are pressed against each +other, and their anxiety to escape compels them to bound up in the +air, showing at the same time the white spot on the croup, dilated by +the effort, and closing again in their descent, and producing that +beautiful effect from which they have obtained the name of the +springer or springbok. + +Early on the 13th, the travellers were met by an escort from the +chief of Kiama, the capital of a district of the same name, and +containing thirty thousand inhabitants. Kiama, Wawa, Niki, and Boussa +are provinces composing the kingdom of Borgoo, all subject, in a +certain sense, to the sovereign of Boussa; but the different cities +plunder and make war on each other, without the slightest regard to +the supreme authority. The people of Kiama and of Borgoo in general +have the reputation of being the greatest thieves and robbers in all +Africa, a character which nothing in their actual conduct appeared to +confirm. The escort were mounted on beautiful horses, and forming as +fine and wild a looking troop as the travellers had ever seen. + +By sultan Yarro himself the travellers were well received. He was +found seated at the porch of his door, dressed in a white tobe, with +a red moorish cap on his head, attended by a mob of people, all lying +prostrate, and talking to him in that posture. He shook hands with +Captain Clapperton, and after telling him who he was, and where he +wished to go, he said, "Very well; I have assigned a house for you; +you had better go and rest from the fatigues of your journey; a +proper supply of provisions shall be sent you." The travellers took +their leave, and repaired to the house prepared for them, which +consisted of three large huts inside a square; they had not been long +there, when a present arrived from Yarro, consisting of milk, eggs, +bananas, fried cheese, curds, and foofoo. The latter is the common +food of both rich and poor in Youriba, and is of two kinds, white and +black. The former is merely a paste made of boiled yams, formed into +balls of about one pound each. The black is a more elaborate +preparation from the flour of yams. In the evening, Yarro paid the +travellers a visit. He came mounted on a beautiful red roan, attended +by a number of armed men on horseback and on foot, and six young +female slaves, naked as they were born, except a fillet of narrow +white cloth tied round their heads, about six inches of the ends +flying out behind, each carrying a light spear in the right hand. He +was dressed in a red silk damask tobe, and booted. He dismounted and +came into the house, attended by the six girls, who laid down their +spears, and put a blue cloth round their waists, before they entered +the door. After a short conference, in which he promised the +travellers all the assistance they solicited, sultan Yarro mounted +his horse; the young spear-women resumed their spears, laying aside +the encumbrance of their aprons, and away they went, the most +extraordinary cavalcade, which the travellers had ever witnessed. +Their light form, the vivacity of their eyes, and the ease with which +they appeared to fly over the ground, made these female pages appear +something more than mortal, as they flew alongside of his horse, when +he was galloping, and making his horse curvet and bound. A man with +an immense bundle of spears remained behind, at a little distance, +apparently to serve as a magazine for the girls to be supplied from, +when their master had expended those they carried in their hands. + +Here, as in other large towns, there were music and dancing the whole +of the night. Men's wives and maidens all join in the song and dance, +Mahommedans as well as pagans; female chastity was very little +regarded. + +Kiama is a straggling, ill-built town, of circular thatched huts, +built, as well as the town-wall, of clay. It stands in latitude 9° +37' 33" N., longitude 5° 22' 56", and is one of the towns through +which the Houssa and Bornou caravan passes in its way to Gonga, on +the borders of Ashantee. Both the city and provinces are, as +frequently happens in Africa, called after the chief Yarro, whose +name signifies the boy. The inhabitants are pagans of an easy faith, +never praying but when they are sick or in want of something, and +cursing their object of worship as fancy serves. The Houssa slaves +among them are Mahommedans, and are allowed to worship in their own +way. It is enough to call a man a native of Borgoo, to designate him +as a thief and a murderer. + +Sultan Yarro was a most accommodating personage, he sent his +principal queen to visit Captain Clapperton, but she had lost both +her youth and her charms. Yarro then inquired of Captain Clapperton, +if he would take his daughter for a wife; to which Clapperton +answered in the affirmative, thanking the sultan at the same time for +his most gracious present. On this, the old woman went out, and +Clapperton followed with the king's head-man, Abubecker, to the house +of the daughter, which consisted of several coozies, separate from +those of the father, and was shown into a very clean one; a mat was +spread, he sat down, and the lady coming in and kneeling down, +Clapperton asked her, if she would live in his house, or if he should +come and live with her; she answered, whatever way he wished, "Very +well," replied Clapperton, "as you have the best house, I will come +and live with you." The bargain was concluded, and the daughter of +the sultan was, _pro tempore,_ the wife of the gallant captain. + +On the 18th, the travellers took their leave of sultan Yarro and his +capital, and the fourth day reached Wawa, another territorial +capital, built in the form of a square, and containing from eighteen +to twenty thousand inhabitants. It is surrounded with a good high +clay wall and dry ditch, and is one of the neatest, most compact, and +best walled towns that had yet been seen. The streets are spacious +and dry; the houses are of the coozie form, consisting of circular +huts connected by a wall, opening into an interior area. The +governor's house is surrounded with a clay wall, about thirty feet +high, having large coozies, shady trees, and square towers inside. +Unlike their neighbours of Kiama, they bear a good character for +honesty, though not for sobriety or chastity, virtues wholly unknown +at Wawa; but they are merry, good natured, and hospitable. They +profess to be descended from the people of Nyffee and Houssa, but +their language is a dialect of the Youribanee; their religion is a +mongrel mahommedism grafted upon paganism. Their women are much +better looking than those of Youriba, and the men are well made, but +have a debauched look; in fact, Lander says, he never was in a place +where drunkenness was so general. They appeared to have plenty of the +necessaries of life, and a great many luxuries. Their fruits are +limes, plantains, bananas, and several wild fruits; their vegetables, +yams and _calalow,_ a plant, the leaves of which are used in soup as +cabbage; and their grain are dhourra and maize. Fish they procure in +great quantities from the Quorra and its tributaries, chiefly a sort +of cat-fish. Oxen are in great plenty, principally in the hands of +the Fellatas, also sheep and goats, poultry, honey, and wax. Ivory +and ostrich feathers, they said, were to be procured in great plenty, +but there was no market for them. + +It was at this place that Clapperton had nearly, though innocently, +got into a scrape with the old governor by coquetting with a young +and buxom widow, and, in fact, Lander himself experienced some +difficulty in withstanding the amorous attack of this African beauty; +for she acted upon the principle, that, as she could not succeed with +the master, there was no obstacle existing that she knew of, to +prevent her directing the battery of her fine black sparkling eyes +against the servant. + +"I had a visit," says Clapperton, "amongst the number, from the +daughter of an Arab, who was very fair, called herself a white woman, +was a rich widow, and wanted a white husband. She was said to be the +richest person in Wawa, having the best house in the town, and a +thousand slaves." She showed a particular regard for Richard Lander, +who was younger and better-looking than Clapperton; but she had +passed her twentieth year, was fat, and a perfect Turkish beauty, +just like a huge walking water-butt. All her arts were, however, +unavailing on the heart of Lander; she could not induce him to visit +her at her house, although he had the permission of his master. + +This gay widow appeared by no means disposed to waste any time by +making regular approaches, like those by which widow Wadman +undermined the outworks, and then the citadel of the unsuspecting +uncle Toby, but she was determined at once to carry the object of her +attack by storm. + +The widow Zuma attempted in the first place to ingratiate herself +with the Europeans, by sending them hot provisions every day in +abundance, during their stay at Wawa. She calculated very justly, +that gratitude is the parent of love, and therefore imagined that as +the Europeans could not be otherwise than grateful to her, for the +delicacies, with which she so liberally supplied them, it would soon +follow as a natural consequence, that their hearts would overflow +with love; at all events it was not to be supposed, that both master +and man could remain callous to the potency of her corporeal charms. +Finding, however, that the hearts of the Europeans were much like the +rocks of her native land, perfectly impenetrable, she had recourse to +another stratagem, which is generally attended with success. In the +enlightened and civilized country of Europe, or at least in that part +of it called England, it is by no means an obsolete custom, for an +individual, who wishes to ingratiate himself with the object of his +affections, to bestow a valuable present on the waiting woman or +abigail, who is a great deal about her person, and the eulogiums +which she then passes upon the absent lover, are great and exuberant +in proportion to the extent of the bribe. A female, whoever she may +be, whether a Middlesex virgin, or a Wawa widow, delights not only to +have some one to whom she can speak of the object of her attachment, +but who will be continually speaking to her of him, and as it appears +that the female character is very nearly the same in the interior of +Africa, as in the latitude of London, it is by no means a matter of +surprise, that the amorous widow enlisted Pascoe, the black servant +of Clapperton, in her cause, by offering him in the way of a bribe, a +handsome female slave as a wife, if he would manage to bring about an +interview at her own house, between either Clapperton or Lander, +expressing herself at the same time not to be very particular as to +which of the two this interview was obtained with. Clapperton it +appears had greater confidence in himself than Lander could boast of, +and the former considering himself proof against all the arts and +fascinations of the widow, and wishing at the same time to see the +interior arrangement of her house, he determined to pay her a visit. +He found her house large, and full of male and female slaves, the +males lying about the outer huts, the females more in the interior. +In the centre of the huts was a square one, of large dimensions, +surrounded by a verandah, with screens of matting all round, except +in one place, where there was hung a tanned bullock's hide; to this +spot he was led up, and on its being drawn on one side, he saw the +lady sitting cross-legged on a small Turkey carpet, like one of our +hearth-rugs, a large leathern cushion under her left knee; her goora +pot, which was an old-fashioned pewter mug, by her side, and a +calabash of water to wash her mouth out, as she alternately kept +eating goora and chewing tobacco snuff, the custom with all ranks, +male and female, who can procure them; on her right side lay a whip. +At a little distance, squatted on the ground, sat a dwarfish, +humpbacked female slave, with a wide mouth, but good eyes. She had no +clothing on, with the exception of a profusion of strings of beads +and coral round her neck and waist. This dwarfish personage served +the purpose of a bell in our country, and what, it may be supposed, +would in old times have been called a page. The lady herself was +dressed in a white coarse muslin turban, her neck profusely decorated +with necklaces of coral and gold chains, amongst which was one of +rubies and gold beads; her eyebrows and eyelashes were blackened, her +hair dyed with indigo, and her hands and feet with henna; around her +body she had a fine striped silk and cotton country cloth, which came +as high as her tremendous bosom, and reached as low as her ankles; in +her right hand she held a fan made of stained grass, and of a square +form. She desired Clapperton to sit down on the carpet beside her, an +invitation which he accepted, and in an alluring manner she began to +fan him, at the same time sending humpback to bring out her finery +for him to look at, which consisted of four gold bracelets, two large +paper dressing-cases with looking-glasses, and several strings of +coral, silver rings, and bracelets, with a number of other trifling +articles. After a number of compliments, and giving her favoured +visitor an account of all her wealth, he was led through one +apartment into another, cool, clean, and ornamented with pewter +dishes and bright brass pans. She now entered into the history of her +private life, commencing with bewailing the death of her husband, who +had now been dead ten years, during all of which time she had mourned +after him excessively. She had one son, the issue of her marriage, +but he was much darker than herself. With a frankness perfectly +commendable in an African widow, and wholly at variance with the +hypocritical and counterfeit bashfulness of the English one, the +widow Zuma at once exposed the situation of her heart, by declaring +that she sincerely loved white men, and as her visitor belonged to +that species, he saw himself at once the object of her affections, +and the envy of all the aspiring young bachelors of the town, who had +been for some time directing a vigorous attack against the widow's +heart. The denouement of an English court-ship is frequently +distinguished by an elopement; but although it was the last of +Clapperton's thoughts to run away with such an unwieldy mass of human +flesh, yet she very delicately proposed to him, that she would send +for a malem, or man of learning, who should read the fetah to them, +or, in other words, that no time whatever should be lost in endowing +the widow Zuma with all claim, right, title, and privilege to be +introduced at the court of Wawa, or any other court in Africa, or +even at that time at the virtuous and formal court of queen Charlotte +of England, as the spouse of Captain Clapperton, of the royal navy of +Great Britain. + +Clapperton was now convinced that the widow was beginning to carry +the joke a little too far, for she assured him, that she should +commence immediately to pack up all her property, and accompany him +to his native country, assuring him, at the same time, that she felt +within herself every requisite qualification to make him a good, +_active,_ and affectionate wife. Clapperton, however, was by no means +disposed to enter so suddenly into a matrimonial speculation, and he +began to look rather serious at the offer which was so unexpectedly, +but so lovingly made to him. This being observed by the widow, she +sent for her looking-glass, and after having taken a full examination +of herself, in every position which the glass would allow her, she +offered it to Clapperton, observing, that certainly she was a little +older than he was, but that circumstance, in her opinion, should not +operate as a bar to their matrimonial union. This was rather too much +for Clapperton to endure, and, taking the first opportunity, he made +his retreat with all possible expedition, determining never to come +to such close quarters again with the amorous widow. + +On his arrival at his residence, Clapperton could not refrain from +laughing at his adventure with the African widow, and informed +Lander, that he had now an opportunity of establishing himself for +life; for although he had rejected the matrimonial advances of the +widow, there was little doubt, that, rather than not obtain a +husband, she would not hesitate to make the offer of her hand to any +other white man, who might present himself. Lander, however, was +still more averse from matrimony than his master, at least with the +African beauty; and although a frequent invitation was sent to him, +yet he very politely declined the acceptance of it, and therefore, as +far as the Europeans were concerned, the widow remained without a +husband. + +Lander gives us no very flattering account of the character of the +inhabitants. In the town of Wawa, which is supposed to contain 20,000 +inhabitants, he does not believe the virtue of chastity to exist. +Even the widow Zuma let out her female slaves for hire, like the rest +of the people of the town. Drinking is the prevailing vice amongst +all classes, nor is it confined to the male sex, for Clapperton was +for three or four days pestered by the governor's daughter, who used +to come several times during the day, painted and bedizened in the +highest style of Wawa fashion, but she was always half tipsy. This +lady, like the widow, had also a design upon the hearts of the +Europeans. On some of these occasions, she expressed her extreme +readiness to prolong her visit during the whole of the night, but +Clapperton informed her, that at night he was employed in prayer, and +looking at the stars, an occupation which she could not comprehend; +and further he told her, that he never drank any thing stronger than +_wa-in-zafir,_ a name which they give to tea, literally, however, +being hot water. Not being able to soften the obdurate heart of +Clapperton, nor to wean him from the unsociable habit of looking at +the stars at night, she always left him with a flood of tears. + +In this part of Borgoo, as well as in the neighbourhood of Algi, and +in all the countries between them and the sea, that Lander passed +through, he met with tribes of Fellatas, nearly white, who are not +moslem, but pagan. "They are certainly," he says, "the same people, +as they speak the same language, and have the same features and +colour, except those who have crossed with the negro. They are as +fair as the lower class of Portuguese or Spaniards, lead a pastoral +life, shifting from place to place as they find grass for their +horned cattle, and live in temporary huts of reeds or long grass." + +From Wawa there are two roads leading to the Fellata country, one by +Youri, the other through Nyffee. The former was reported to be +unsafe, the sultan of the country being out, fighting the Fellatas. +The latter crosses the Quorra at Comie, and runs direct to Koolfu, in +Nyffee. It was necessary, however, for Clapperton to proceed in the +first instance to Boussa, to visit its sultan, to whom all this part +of Borgoo is nominally subject. They were also particularly anxious +to see the spot where Park and his companions perished, and, if +possible, to recover their papers. + +Leaving Wawa at daybreak on the 30th March, the travellers passed +over a woody country, and at length entered a range of low rocky +hills, composed of pudding stone. At the end of an opening in the +range was a beautiful sugar loaf mountain, overlooking all the rest, +and bearing from the village half a mile E. S. E. The name of Mount +George was given to it by Clapperton. The valleys were cultivated +with yams, corn, and maize; and on the same day the travellers +arrived at Ingum, the first village belonging to Boussa, situated on +the north-eastern side of the hills. At four hours from Ingum, they +halted at a village of the Cumbrie or Cambric, an aboriginal race of +kaffirs, inhabiting the woods on both sides of the river. About an +hour further, they arrived at the ferry over the Menai, where it +falls into another branch of the Quorra, and in about a quarter of an +hour's ride from the opposite bank, they entered the western gate of +Boussa. The walls, which appeared very extensive, were undergoing +repair. Bands of male and female slaves, singing in chorus, +accompanied by a band of drums and flutes, were passing to and from +the river, to mix the clay they were building with. Every great man +had his own part of the wall to build, like the Jews when they built +the walls of Jerusalem, every one opposite to his own house. + +The city of Boussa is situated on an island formed by the Quorra, in +latitude 10° 14' N. longitude 6° 11' E. It stands nearest the +westernmost branch of the Menai, which is about twenty yards in +breadth, and runs with a slow and sluggish current. The place pointed +out to Lander as the spot where Park perished, is in the eastern +channel. A low flat island about a quarter of a mile in breadth, lies +between the town of Boussa and the fatal spot, which is in a line +from the sultan's house with a double trunked tree, with white bark, +standing singly on the low flat island. The bank, at the time of +Lander's visit, was only ten feet above the level of the stream, +which here breaks over a great slate rock, extending quite across to +the eastern shore, which rises into gentle hills of grey slate, +thinly scattered with trees. + +The following statement of the circumstances attending the lamented +fate of Mr. Park, was given to the travellers by an eyewitness, and +together with all the information which they could collect, tallies +with the story, disbelieved at the time, which Isaaco brought back +from Amadi Fatooma. The informant stated "that when the boat came +down the river, it happened unfortunately just at the time that the +Fellatas had risen in arms, and were ravaging Goober and Zamfra; that +the sultan of Boussa, on hearing that the persons in the boat were +white men, and that it was different from any that had ever been seen +before, as she had a house at one end, called his people together +from the neighbouring towns, attacked and killed them, not doubting +they were the advanced guard of the Fellata army, then ravaging +Soudan, under the command of Malem Danfodio, the father of sultan +Bello. That one of the white men was a tall man, with long hair; that +they fought for three days before they were all killed, that the +people in the neighbourhood were very much alarmed, and great numbers +fled to Nyffee, and other countries, thinking that the Fellatas were +certainly coming amongst them; that the number of persons in the boat +were only four, two white men and two black; that they found great +treasure in the boat, but that the people had all died, who ate of +the meat that was found on board." + +This meat according to another native informant, was believed on that +account to be human flesh, for they knew, it was added, that we white +men eat human flesh. Lander afterwards received the following +additional information from a mallam or priest, whom he met with at +Wawa, and who tendered it spontaneously. "The sultan of Youri advised +your countrymen to proceed the remainder of the way on land, as the +passage by water was rendered dangerous by numerous sunken rocks in +the Niger, and a cruel race of people inhabiting the towns on its +banks." They refused, however, to accede to this, observing that they +were bound to proceed down the Niger to the salt water. The old +mallam further observed, that as soon as the sultan of Youri heard of +their death, he was much affected, but it was out of his power to +punish the people, who had driven them into the water. A pestilence +reached Boussa at the time, swept off the king and most of the +habitants, particularly those who were concerned in the transaction. +The remainder fancying it was a judgment of the white man's God, +placed everything belonging to the Christians in a hut, and set it on +fire. It is not a little remarkable, that it is now a common saying, +all through the interior of Africa, "Do not hurt a Christian, for if +you do, you will die like the people of Boussa." On Clapperton +waiting on the sultan of Boussa, he was as usual very kindly +received; his first inquiry was concerning some white men, who were +lost in the river, some twenty years ago, near this place. + +The sultan appeared rather uneasy at these inquiries, and it was +observed that he stammered in his speech. He assured both Clapperton +and Lander, that he had not any thing in his possession belonging to +the white men, and that he was a little boy when the event happened. +Clapperton told him that he wanted nothing but the books and papers, +and to learn from him a correct account of the manner of their death; +and, with the sultan's permission, he would go and visit the place +where they were lost. To this request, the sultan gave a decided +refusal, alleging that it was a very bad place. Clapperton, however, +having heard that part of the boat remained, inquired if such were +really the case; to which the sultan replied, that there was no truth +whatever in the report; that she did remain on the rocks for some +time after, but had gone to pieces and floated down the river long +ago. Clapperton told the sultan, that, if he would give him the books +and papers, it would be the greatest favour he could possibly confer +on him. The sultan again assured him, that nothing remained with him; +every thing of books or papers having gone into the hands of the +learned men; but that, if any were in existence, he would procure +them, and give them to him. Clapperton then asked him, if he would +allow him to inquire of the old people in the town the particulars of +the affair, as some of them must have witnessed the transaction. The +sultan appeared very uneasy, and as he did not return any answer, +Clapperton did not press him further at that time upon the subject. + +Some unpleasant suspicions floating on the mind of Clapperton, he +took the first opportunity of returning to the subject, and on again +inquiring about the papers of his unfortunate countryman, the sultan +said, that the late iman, a Fellata, had had possession of all the +books and papers, and that he had fled from Boussa some time since. +This, therefore, was a death-blow to all future inquiries in that +quarter, and the whole of the information concerning the affair of +the boat, her crew, and cargo, was indefinite and unsatisfactory. +Every one, in fact, appeared uneasy when any information was +required; and they always stifled any further inquiry by vaguely +answering, that it happened before their remembrance, or they had +forgotten it, or they had not seen it. They, however, pointed out the +place where the boat struck and the unfortunate crew perished. Even +this, however, was done with caution, and as if by stealth, although +in every thing unconnected with that affair, they were most ready to +give the travellers whatever information they required, and in no +part of Africa were they treated with greater hospitality and +kindness. + +The place where the vessel was sunk is in the eastern channel, where +the river breaks over a grey slate rock extending quite across it. A +little lower down, the river had a fall of three or four feet. Here, +and still further down, the whole united streams of the Quorra were +not above three-fourths the breadth of the Thames at Somerset-house. + +On returning to the ferry, Clapperton found a messenger from the king +of Youri, who had sent him a present of a camel. + +The messenger stated, that the king, before he left Youri, had shown +him two books, very large and printed, that had belonged to the white +men, who were lost in the boat at Boussa; that he had been offered +one hundred and seventy mitgalls of gold for them, by a merchant from +Bornou, who had been sent by a Christian on purpose for them. +Clapperton advised him to tell the king that he ought to have sold +them, for that he would not give five mitgalls for them; but that, if +he would send them, he would give him an additional present, and that +he would be doing an acceptable thing to the king of England by +sending them, and that he would not act like a king, if he did not. +Clapperton gave the messenger, for his master, one of the mock gold +chains, a common sword, and ten yards of silk, adding that he would +give him a handsome gun and some more silk, if he would send the +books. On asking the messenger, if there were any books like his +journal, which he showed him, he said there was one, but that his +master had given it to an Arab merchant ten years ago; the merchant, +however, was killed by the Fellatas, on his way to Kano, and what had +become of that book afterwards, he did not know. + +Upon this, Clapperton sent a person with a letter to Youri. Mohammed, +the Fezzaner, whom he had hired at Tabra, and whom he had sent to the +chief of Youri for the books and papers of the late Mungo Park, +returned, bringing him a letter from that person, which contained the +following account of the death of that unfortunate traveller. That +not the least injury was done to him at Youri, or by the people of +that country; that the people of Boussa had killed them, and taken +all their riches; that the books in his possession were given him by +the iman of Boussa; that they were lying on the top of the goods in +the boat when she was taken; that not a soul was left alive belonging +to the boat; that the bodies of two black men were found in the boat, +chained together; that the white men jumped overboard; that the boat +was made of two canoes joined fast together, with an awning or roof +behind; that he, the sultan, had a gun, double barrelled, and a +sword, and two books, that had belonged to those in the boat; that he +would give the books whenever Clapperton went himself to Youri for +them, but not until then. + +This is, however, not exactly what the sultan says, in his letter, of +which the following is a translation:-- + + +"This is issued from the prince or lord of Yaoury to Abdallah, the +English captain--salutation and esteem. Hence your messenger has +arrived, and brought us your letter, and we understand what you +write; you inquire about a thing that has no trace with us. The +prince or lord of Boossy is older (or greater) than us, because he is +our grandfather. Why did you not inquire of him about what you wish +for? You were at Boossy, and did not inquire of the inhabitants what +was the cause of the destruction of the ship and your friends, nor +what happened between them of evil; but you do now inquire of one who +is far off, and knows nothing of the cause of their (the Christians') +destruction. + +"As to the book, which is in our hand, it is true, and we did not +give it to your messenger; but we will deliver it to you, if you come +and show us a letter from your lord. You shall then see and have it, +if God be pleased; and much esteem and salam be to you, and prayer +and peace unto the last of the apostles! + +"MAHOMMED" + + +This may be considered as the conclusion of the information which was +obtained respecting the fate of Park; although Clapperton expresses +it to be his opinion, but founded on very slender grounds, that the +journal of Park is yet to be recovered. + +On leaving Boussa, Clapperton retraced his steps to the Cumbrie +villages, and then turned to the south-south-west to another of their +villages, named Songa, situated on the banks of the Quorra. About two +hours above Songa, there is a formidable cataract, "where," Lander +observes, "if Park had passed Boussa in safety, he would have been in +danger of perishing, unheard and unseen." An hour and a half below +Songa, the Quorra rushes with great force through a natural gap, such +it seems to be, between porphyritic rocks rising on each side of the +channel. Between Songa and this place, the river is full of rocky +islets and rapids, and these occur occasionally all the way down to +Wonjerque, or the king's ferry at the village of Comie, where it is +all in one stream, about a quarter of a mile in width, and ten or +twelve feet deep in the middle. This is the great ferry of all the +caravans to and from Nyffee, Houssa, and is only a few hours from +Wawa. + +On reaching this ferry, Clapperton was told, that, so far from his +baggage having been sent on to Koolfu, it had been stopped at Wawa, +by order of the governor; but this extraordinary proceeding was in +some degree accounted for, as it appeared that although neither +Clapperton nor Lander would have any thing to do with the corpulent +widow Zuma, she was determined not to let them off so easily, and, to +their great surprise, the travellers heard that she was at a +neighbouring village, from which she sent them a present of some +boiled rice and a fowl, giving them, at the same time, a pressing +invitation to come and stop at her house. The governor's son informed +Clapperton, that his baggage would not be allowed to leave Wawa till +the widow Zuma was sent back. "What the d---l have I to do with the +widow?" asked Clapperton.--"You have," he replied; "and you must come +back with me and take her." Clapperton, however, refused, in the most +positive terms, to have any thing to do with or to say to her. At +this moment Lander returned from Boussa, whither he had followed his +master, to acquaint him with the detention of his baggage; all of +which was owing to the widow having left Wawa about half an hour +after he did, with drums beating before her, and a train after her, +first calling at his lodgings, before she waited on the governor. +It was also ascertained that she had given old Pascoe a female slave +for a wife, without having previously asked the governor's +permission. The widow had also intimated her intention to follow the +travellers to Kano, whence she would return to make war on the +governor, as she had done once before. "This," said Clapperton, "let +me into their politics with a vengeance; it would indeed have been a +fine end to my journey, if I had deposed old Mahommed, and set up for +myself, with a walking tun-butt for a queen." Clapperton, however, +determined to go back to Wawa, to release his baggage; and scarcely +had he got there, when the arrival of the buxom widow was announced, +her appearance and escort being as grand as she could make it, hoping +thereby to make an impression upon the flinty hearts of the +Europeans. The following is the description of her dress and +escort:-- Preceding her marched a drummer, beating the instrument with +all his power, his cap being profusely decked with ostrich feathers. +A bowman walked on foot, at the head of her horse, a long train +following, consisting of tall, strong men, armed with spears, bows, +and swords. She rode on a fine horse, whose trappings were of the +first order for this semi-civilized country; the head of the horse +was ornamented with brass-plates, the neck with brass bells, and +charms sewed in various coloured leather, such as red, green, and +yellow; a scarlet breast-piece, with a brass plate in the centre; +scarlet saddle-cloth, trimmed with lace. She was dressed in red silk +trousers and morocco boots; on her head a white turban, and over her +shoulders a mantle of silk and gold. For the purpose of properly +balancing her ponderous frame on the horse, she rode in the style of +the men, a-straddle; and perhaps a more unwieldy mass never pressed +upon the loins of an animal; had she, however, been somewhat younger, +and less corpulent, there might have been some temptation to head her +party, for she certainly had been a very handsome woman, and such as +would have been thought a beauty in any country in Europe. + +The widow was summoned before the governor; went on her knees, and, +after a lecture on disobedience and vanity, was dismissed; but on +turning her back, she shook the dust off her feet with great +indignation and contempt; "and," says Clapperton, "I went home, +determined never to be caught in such a foolish affair in future." + +The travellers, having secured their baggage, returned to the ferry, +and crossed the Quorra. They were now on the high-road to Koolfu, the +emporium of Nyffee. In the course of the first two stages, they came +to two villages full of blacksmiths' shops, with several forges in +each. They got their iron ore from the hills, which they smelt, where +they dig it. In every village they saw a fetish house in good repair, +adorned with painted figures of human beings, as also the boa, the +alligator, and the tortoise. The country is well cultivated with +corn, yams, and cotton; but the ant-hills were the highest the +travellers had ever seen, being from fifteen to twenty feet high, and +resembling so many gothic cathedrals in miniature. + +In the afternoon of the third day, they crossed a stream called the +May Yarrow, opposite the town of Tabra, by a long narrow wooden +bridge of rough branches covered with earth, the first that they had +seen in Africa; it will not, however, bear a man and horse, nor can +two horses pass at once. Tabra, which is divided by the river into +two quarters, was at this time the residence of the queen-mother of +Nyffee, who was governor _ad interim_ during the absence of her son. +It may contain from eighteen to twenty thousand inhabitants, who, +with a few exceptions, are pagans, and they all, men and women, have +the reputation of being great drunkards. There are only a few +blacksmiths here, but a great number of weavers. The Houssa caravans +pass close to the north side of the town, but seldom enter it. Before +the civil war began, the Benin people came here to trade. The war, +which was still raging, originated in a dispute for the succession, +between Mohammed El Majia, the son of the queen-mother, who was a +moslem, and Edrisi, who was represented to be a pagan. The former was +supported by the Fellatas, whom the people of Nyffee cannot endure; +the other had the best right and the people on his side, but there +was little doubt of his being obliged to succumb. + +Clapperton, accompanied by Lander, repaired to the camp, to pay his +respects to El Majia. He was found mounted on a good bay horse, the +saddle ornamented with pieces of silver and brass; the breastplate +with large silver plates hanging down from it, like what is +represented in the prints of Roman and eastern emperors on horseback. +He was a tall man, with a stupid expression of countenance, a large +mouth, and snagged teeth, which showed horribly, when he attempted a +smile. His dress consisted of a black velvet cap, with flaps over the +ears, and trimmed with red silk; a blue and white striped tobe, and +ragged red boots, part leather and part cloth; in his hand he bore a +black staff with a silver head, and a coast-made umbrella and sword +were carried by his slaves. Altogether his appearance was far from +being either kingly or soldier-like, and he displayed the most mean +degree of rapacity. He was the ruin of his country by his unnatural +ambition, and by calling in the Fellatas, who would remove him out of +the way the moment he is of no more use to them. Even then, he dared +not move without their permission. It was reported, and generally +believed, that he put to death his brother and two of his sons. +Through him the greater part of the industrious population of Nyffee +had either been killed, sold as slaves, or had fled from their native +country. Lander considered that it would have been an act of charity +to have removed him altogether. + +The _sanson,_ or camp, was a large collection of bee-hive-shaped +huts, arranged in streets, and thatched with straw. But for the +number of horses feeding, and some picketed near the huts, the men +being all seen armed, and the drums beating, it might have been taken +for a populous and peaceful village. Here were to be seen weavers, +tailors, women spinning cotton, others reeling it off; some selling +_foofoo_ and _accassons,_ others crying yams and paste; little +markets at every green tree; holy men counting their beads, and +dissolute slaves drinking _wabum,_ palm wine. The king, when the +travellers went to take leave of him, was found in his hut, +surrounded by Fellatas, one of whom was reading the Koran aloud for +the benefit of the whole, the meaning of which not one of them +understood, not even the reader. It is by no means an uncommon +occurrence, both in Bornou and Houssa, for a man to be able to read +the Koran fluently, who does not understand a word in it but _Allah,_ +and who is unable to read any other book. + +On the 2nd of May the travellers left Tabra, and journeying along the +banks of the May Yarrow, crossed a stream running into it from the +north, and soon after entered the great market town of Koolfu. +Captain Clapperton, it would appear, was doomed to be brought into +contact with the rich widows of the country, for in this town he took +up his abode with the widow Laddie, huge, fat, and deaf, but reputed +to be very rich. She was a general dealer, selling salt, natron, et +cetera, et cetera, et cetera; but she was more particularly famous +for her _booza_ and _wabum._ The former is made from a mixture of +dourra, honey, chili-pepper, the root of a coarse grass on which the +cattle feed, and a proportion of water; these are allowed to ferment +in large earthen jars, placed near a slow fire for four or five days, +when the booza is drawn off into other jars, and is fit to drink. It +is very fiery and intoxicating, but is drunk freely both by moslem +and pagans. Every night, a large outer hut belonging to the widow, +was filled with the topers of Koolfu, who kept it up generally till +dawn, with music and drink. The former consisted of the erhab or Arab +guitar, the drum, the Nyffee harp, and the voice. Their songs were +mostly extempore, and alluded to the company present. + +On the night of the travellers' arrival, the new moon was seen, which +put an end to the fast of Rhamadan. It was welcomed both by moslems +and kaffirs with a cry of joy, and the next day, the town exhibited a +scene of general festivity. Every one was dressed in his best, paying +and receiving visits, giving and receiving presents, parading the +streets with horns, guitars, and flutes, whilst groupes of men and +women were seen seated under the shade at their doors, or under +trees, drinking _wabum_ or _booza._ + +The women were dressed and painted to the height of Nyffee fashion, +and the young and the modest on this day would come up and salute the +men, as if old acquaintance, and bid them joy on the day; with the +wool on their heads dressed, plaited, and dyed with indigo; their +eyebrows painted with indigo, the eyelashes with khol, the lips +stained yellow, the teeth red, and their feet and hands stained with +henna; their finest and gayest clothes on; all their finest beads on +their necks; their arms and legs adorned with bracelets of glass, +brass, and silver; their fingers with rings of brass, pewter, silver, +and copper; some had Spanish dollars soldered on the back of the +rings; they too drank of the booza and wabum as freely as the men, +joining in their songs, whether good or bad. In the afternoon parties +of men were seen dancing, free men and slaves, all were alike; not a +clouded brow was to be seen in Koolfu. But at nine in the evening, +the scene was changed from joy and gladness to terror and dismay: a +tornado had just begun, and the hum of voices, and the din of the +people putting their things under cover from the approaching storm, +had ceased at once. All was silent as death, except the thunder and +the wind. The cloudy sky appeared as if on fire, each cloud rolling +onwards as a sea of flame, and only surpassed in grandeur and +brightness by the forked lightning, which constantly seemed to ascend +and descend from what was then evidently the town of Bali on fire, +only a short distance outside the walls of Koolfu. When this was +extinguished a new scene began, if possible, worse than the first. +The wind had increased to a hurricane. Houses were blown down; +Roofs of houses going along with the wind like chaff, the shady trees +in the town bending and breaking; and in the intervals between the +roaring of the thunder, nothing was heard but the war cry of the men +and the screams of women and children, as no one knew but that an +enemy was at hand, and that they should every instant share in the +fate of Bali. At last the rain fell, the fire at Bali had ceased by +the town being wholly burnt down, and all was quiet and silent, as if +the angel of extermination had brandished his sword over the devoted +country. + +Koolfu or Koolfie stands on the northern bank of the May Garrow, and +contains from twelve to fifteen thousand inhabitants, including +slaves. It is built in the form of an oblong square, surrounded with +a clay wall, about twenty feet high, with four gates. There are a +great number of dyers, tailors, blacksmiths, and weavers, but all +these, together with the rest of the townsfolk, are engaged in +traffic. There are besides the daily market, general markets every +Monday and Saturday, which are resorted to by traders from all +quarters: Youriba, Borgoo, Soccatoo, Houssa, Nyffee, and Benin. +The caravans from Bornou and Houssa, which halt at Koolfu a +considerable time, bring horses, natron, unwrought silk, silk cord, +beads, Maltese swords from Bengazi, remounted at Kano; clothes made +up in the moorish fashion, Italian looking glasses, such as sell for +one penny and upwards at Malta, tobes undyed, made in Bornou, khol +for the eyelids, a small quantity of attar of roses, much +adulterated, gums from Mecca, silks from Egypt, moorish caps, and +slaves. The latter who are intended for sale, are confined in the +house mostly in irons, and are seldom allowed to go out of it, except +to the well or river every morning to wash. They are strictly guarded +on a journey, and chained neck to neck, or else tied neck to neck by +a long rope of raw hide, and carry loads on their heads, consisting +of their master's goods or household stuff; these loads are generally +from fifty to sixty pounds weight. A stranger may remain a long time +in a town without seeing any of the slaves, except by accident or by +making a particular inquiry. Although professedly moslem, religion +had not yet moulded the society of the Koolfuans into the usual +gloomy monotony, nor had it succeeded in secluding or subjecting the +female sex, who on the contrary, were the most active agents in every +mercantile transaction. In the widow Laddie's house, no fewer than +twenty-one of these female merchants were lodged at the same time +that Clapperton and Lander took up their abode with her, and it may +be easily supposed, that the Europeans led a most pleasant life of +it. An African hut is by no means at any time an abode which an +European would covet, but in addition to the suffocating heat, the +mosquitoes, and many other nameless inconveniences, to be congregated +with twenty or thirty females, not carrying about them the most +delicious odour in the world, and making the welkin ring again with +their discordant screams, there denominated singing, is a +consummation by no means devoutly to be wished. In addition to other +nuisances, the organ of amativeness, as the phrenologists would have +it, was strongly developed in some of the skulls of the ladies, and +displayed themselves in their actions towards the Europeans, who not +being disposed to return their amorous advances, often made a +precipitate retreat out of the hut, not being aware at the time that +by avoiding Sylla, they ran a great risk of failing into Charybdis. +The widow Laddie, although huge, fat, and deaf, was by no means of a +cold, phlegmatic or saturnine disposition--many a wistful look she +cast towards Lander, but he either would not or could not comprehend +their meaning, and to punish him for his stupidity, she took care +that he should not comprehend any of the significant glances, which +were cast towards him by the more juvenile portion of the community. +To protect him from this danger, the kind widow attended him +whithersoever he went, to the great annoyance of Lander, who, in +order to escape from such a living torment, betook himself to a more +distant part of the town, or explored its vicinity, although very +little presented itself to attract his immediate attention. + +The following is the manner in which the good people of Koolfu fill +up the twenty-four hours. At daylight, the whole household rise. The +women begin to clean the house, the men to wash from head to foot; +the women and children are then washed in water, in which has been +boiled the leaf of a bush called _bambarnia._ When this is done, +breakfast of cocoa is served out, every one having their separate +dish, the women and children eating together. After breakfast, the +women and children rub themselves over with the pounded red wood and +a little grease, which lightens the darkness of the black skin. A +score or patch of the red powder is put on some place, where it will +show to the best advantage. The eyes are blacked with khol. The +mistress and the better-looking females stain their teeth, and the +inside of the lips, of a yellow colour, with goora, the flower of the +tobacco plant, and the bark of a root; the outer parts of the lips, +hair, and eyebrows are stained with _shunt,_ or prepared indigo. Then +the women, who attend the market, prepare their wares for sale, and +when ready, set off, ten or twelve in a party, and following each at +a stated distance. Many of these trains are seen, and their step is, +so regular, that if they had been drilled by a sergeant of the +foot-guards in England, they could not perform their motions with +greater exactitude. The elderly women prepare, clean, and spin cotton +at home, and cook the victuals; the younger females are generally +sent round the town, selling the small rice balls, fried beans, &c., +and bringing back a supply of water for the day. The master of the +house generally takes a walk to the market, or sits in the shade at +the door of his hut, hearing the news, or speaking of the price of +natron or other goods. The weavers are daily employed at their trade; +some are sent to cut wood, and bring it to market; others to bring +grass for the horses that may belong to the house, or to take to the +market to sell. A number of people at the commencement of the rainy +season, are employed in clearing the ground for sowing the maize and +millet, some are sent on distant journeys to buy and sell for their +master or mistress, and they very rarely betray their trust. About +noon, they return home, when all have a mess of the pudding called +_tvaki,_ or boiled beans. About two or three in the afternoon, they +return to their different employments, on which they remain until +near sunset, when they count their gains to their master or mistress, +who receives it, and puts it carefully away in their strong room. +They then have a meal of pudding, and a little fat or stew. The +mistress of the house, when she goes to rest, has her feet put into a +cold poultice of the pounded henna leaves. The young then go to dance +and play, if it be moonlight, and the old to lounge and converse in +the open square of the house, or in the outer _coozie,_ where they +remain until the cool of the night, or till the approach of morning +drives them into shelter. + +The majority of the inhabitants of Koolfu are professedly +Mahommedans; the rest are pagans, who once a year, in common with the +other people of Nyffee, repair to a high hill in one of the southern +provinces, on which they sacrifice a black bull, a black sheep, and a +black dog. On their fetish houses are sculptured, as in Youriba, the +lizard, the crocodile, the tortoise, and the boa, with sometimes +human figures. Their language is a dialect of the Youribanee, but the +Houssa is that of the market. They are civil, but the truth is not in +them; and to be detected in a lie is not the smallest disgrace; it +only causes a laugh. The men drink very hard, even the Mahommedans +and the women are not particularly celebrated for their chastity, +although they succeeded in cheating both Clapperton and Lander; they +were not, however, robbed of a single article, and they were +uniformly treated with perfect respect. The people seem, indeed, by +no means devoid of kindness of disposition. When the town of Bali was +burned down, every person sent next day what they could spare of +their goods, to assist the unfortunate inhabitants. In civilized +England, when a fire takes place, thieving and robbery are the order +of the day, but during the conflagration at Bali, not an article was +stolen. + +To their domestic slaves, they behave with the greatest humanity, +looking upon them almost as children of the family. The males are +often freed, and the females given in marriage to free men, or to +other domestic slaves. The food of the slave and the free is nearly +the same. The greatest man or woman in the country is not ashamed, at +times, to let the slaves eat of the same dish; but a woman is never +allowed to eat with a man. With a people, who have neither +established law nor government, it is surprising that they are so +good and moral as they are; it is true, they will cheat if they can, +but amongst the civilized nations, who have both laws and government, +cheating is by no means a rare occurrence, and by those too, who are +the loudest in the professions of their honesty and integrity. + +The country round Koolfu is a level plain, well cultivated, and +studded with little walled towns and villages along the banks of the +May Yarrow, and of a little river running into it from the north. +Between the walled towns of Bullabulla and Rajadawa, the route passed +through plantations of grain, indigo, and cotton; the soil clay mixed +with sand, with here and there large blocks of sandstone, containing +nodules of iron and veins of iron-stone. + +At five days from Koolfu, the route entered at the town of Wazo, or +Wazawo, the district of Koteng Koro, formerly included in Kashna; and +for another five days' journey through a rich and beautiful valley, +and over woody hills, the travellers reached Womba, a large walled +town, where the caravans both from the east and the west generally +halt a day or two, and where, as at Wazo, a toll is levied on +merchandise. The town stands on a rising ground, at the eastern head +of a valley watered by a small stream, having three bare rocky hills +of granite to the north, east, and south. The inhabitants may amount +to between ten and twelve thousand souls. The travellers were here +objects of much kindness; the principal people of the place sent +presents, and the lower ranks sought to obtain a sight of them by +mounting the trees which overlooked their residence. The Koran does +not seem to have much embarrassed these people; their only mode of +studying it was to have the characters written with a black substance +on a piece of board, then to wash them off and drink the water; and +when asked what spiritual benefit could be derived from the mere +swallowing of dirty water, they indignantly retorted, "What! do you +call the name of God dirty water?" This mode of imbibing sacred truth +is indeed extensively pursued throughout the interior of the African +continent. + +On the second day from Womba, the travellers passed through another +large and populous town, called Akinjie, where also kafilas pay toll; +beyond which, the route lay for two days over a very hilly country, +for the most part covered with wood, and but little cultivated, till +they approached Guari. + +This town, the capital of a district of the same name, formerly +included in Kashna, is built partly on a hill, and partly in a narrow +valley, through which runs a muddy stream, that is dry in summer; +this stream, the source of which is only a day's journey distant, +divides in one part the states of Kotong Kora and Guari, and falls +into the Kodonia in Nyffee. The district of Guari was conquered by +the Fellatas, in a short time after their rising, together with the +rest of Houssa. On the death of old Bello, the father of the then +reigning sovereign, these districts, with the greater part of Kashna, +joined in the towia, or confederacy, against the Fellatas. The chief +of Zamfra was the first to shake the spear of rebellion, and he was +soon joined by the natives of Goober, and the northern parts of +Kashna, by Guari and Kotong Kora, and at length by the states of +Youri, Cubbi, Doura, and the southern part of Zeg Zeg. The strength +of Youri is said to lie in the bravery of its inhabitants, and the +number of horse they can bring into the field, amounting to a +thousand. Clapperton was, however, disposed to place their real +strength in the hilly and woody nature of their country. + +Futika, the frontier town of Zeg Zeg, was reached on the second day +from Guari; and at Zaria, where the travellers arrived on the fourth, +they found themselves in a city almost wholly peopled by Fellatas, +who have mosques with minarets, and live in flat-roofed houses. The +population is said to exceed that of Kano, and must contain above +fifty thousand inhabitants. A great number of the inhabitants are +from Foota Ronda and Foota Torra, the Foulahs and Fellatas being, in +fact, the same people. The people from the west professed to be well +acquainted with both the English and the French, and they rattled +over the names of the towns between Sierra Leone and the Senegal and +Timbuctoo. They were armed with French fusees, preferring the guns of +the French and the powder of the English. + +The old city of Zaria was taken by the Fellatas, within a month after +they had made themselves masters of the provinces of Goober and +Zamfra, about thirty years ago. It took a siege of two days, when it +was evacuated by the sultan and the greater part of the inhabitants, +who took refuge in hills south and west, where they still maintain +their independence, though subject to the continual attacks of the +Fellatas. The old city is now known only by its ruined walls, +surrounding some high mounds, which were in the centre of the +enclosed area. The new city, built by the Fellatas, to the south-east +of the old, consists of a number of little villages and detached +houses, scattered over an extensive area, surrounded with high clay +walls. Near the centre of the wall stands the principal mosque, built +of clay, with a minaret nearly fifty feet high. On entering one of +the western gates, instead of finding houses, the travellers could +but just see the tops of some of them over the growing grain, at +about a quarter of a mile distance; all was walled fields full of +dhourra, with here and there a horse tethered in the open space. + +The province of Zeg Zeg is the most extensive in the kingdom of +Houssa, and both Kashna and Kano were at one time tributary to its +sovereigns. The name of the country appears to be also given to the +capital, and is possibly derived from it. It must, however, be +observed that Lander mentions Zaria only by the name of Zeg Zeg. +Prior to the Fellata conquest, Islamism is said to have been unknown +in Zeg Zeg, and the southern part is still in the possession of +various pagan tribes, whose country is called Boushir or Boushi, that +is, the infidel country, and is said to extend to the ocean. + +The country in the vicinity of the capital, Zaria, is clear of wood, +and is all either in pasture or under cultivation. Its appearance at +this season resembled some of the finest counties in England at the +latter end of April. It was beautifully variegated with hill and +dale, like the most romantic parts of England; was covered with +luxuriant crops and rich pastures, and produced the best rice grown +in any part of that continent. Rows of tall trees, resembling +gigantic avenues of poplar, extended from hill to hill. Zaria, like +many other African cities, might be considered as a district of +country surrounded with walls. + +After passing several towns at the distance of short stages, the +travellers, on the fourth day from Zaria, entered, at the town of +Dunchow, the province of Kano. A highly cultivated and populous +country extends from this place to Baebaejie, the next stage. This +town stands in an extensive plain, stretching towards the north till +lost in the horizon. The two mounts inside the walls of Kano are just +distinguishable above the horizontal line, bearing north-east by +north. The hills of Nora are seen about ten miles east; to the south +are the mountains of Surem, distant about twenty-five miles, while to +the westward appear the tops of the hills of Aushin, in Zeg Zeg, over +which the route had passed. Small towns and villages are scattered +over the plain, and herds of fine white cattle were seen grazing on +the fallow ground. The inhabitants of Baebaejie, amounting to about +twenty or twenty-five thousand, are chiefly refugees from Bornou and +Waday, and their descendants, all engaged in trade. They appeared +cleanly, civil, and industrious. A broad and good road thronged with +passengers and loaded animals, led in another day's journey to Kano. + + + +CHAPTER XXVII. + +The travellers found the city of Kano in a state of dreadful +agitation. There was war on every side. Hostilities had been declared +between the king of Bornou and the Fellatas; the provinces of Zamfra +and Goober were in open insurrection; the Tuaricks threatened an +inroad; in short, there was not a quarter to which the merchants +durst send a caravan. Kano being nearly mid-way between Bornou and +Sockatoo, Clapperton left his baggage there, to be conveyed to the +former place on his return, and set out for the capital of the sultan +Bello, bearing only the presents destined for that prince. On his way +he found numerous bands mustering to form an army for the attack of +Coonia, the rebel metropolis of Ghoober. The appearance of these +troops was very striking, as they passed along the borders of some +beautiful little lakes, formed by the river Zirmie. + +The appearance of the country at this season was very beautiful; all +the acacia trees were in blossom, some with white flowers, others +with yellow, forming a contrast with the small dusky leaves, like +gold and silver tassels on a cloak of dark green velvet. Some of the +troops were bathing; others watering their horses, bullocks, camels, +and asses; the lake Gondamee as smooth as glass, and flowing around +the roots of the trees. The sun, in its approach to the horizon, +threw the shadows of the flowering acacias along its surface, like +sheets of burnished gold and silver. The smoking fires on its banks, +the sounding of horns, the beating of their gongs and drums, the +blowing of their brass and tin trumpets; the rude huts of grass or +branches of trees, rising as if by magic, everywhere the calls on the +names Mahomed, Abdo, Mustafa, &c., with the neighing of horses, and +the braying of asses, gave animation to the beautiful scenery of the +lake, and its sloping, green, and woody banks. The only regulation +that appears in these rude feudal armies is, that they take up their +ground according to the situation of the provinces, east, west, +north, or south; but all are otherwise huddled together, without the +least regularity. + +The sultan was himself encamped with the forces from Sockatoo, +whither the travellers repaired to join him, and they arrived just in +time to be eye-witnesses of a specimen of the military tactics and +conduct of these much-dreaded Fellatas. This curious scene is thus +described:-- + +After the mid-day prayers, all except the eunuchs, camel-drivers, and +such other servants as were of use only to prevent theft, whether +mounted or on foot, marched towards the object of attack, and soon +arrived before the walls of the city. Clapperton accompanied them, +and took up his station close to the gadado. The march had been the +most disorderly that could be imagined; horse and foot intermingling +in the greatest confusion, all rushing to get forward; sometimes the +followers of one chief tumbling amongst those of another, when swords +were half unsheathed, but all ended in making a face, or putting on a +threatening aspect. They soon arrived before Coonia, the town not +being above half a mile in diameter, nearly circular, and built on +the banks of one of the branches of the liver, or lakes. Each chief, +as he came, took his station, which, it was supposed, had been +previously assigned to him. The number of fighting men brought before +the town could not be less than fifty or sixty thousand, horse and +foot, of which the latter amounted to more than nine-tenths. For the +depth of two hundred yards, all round the walls, was a dense circle +of men and horses. The horse kept out of bow-shot, while the foot +went up as they felt courage or inclination, and kept up a straggling +fire with about thirty muskets and the shooting of arrows. In front +of the sultan, the Zeg Zeg troops had one French fusee; the Kano +forces had forty-one muskets. These fellows, whenever they fired +their muskets, ran out of bow-shot to load; all of them were slaves; +not a single Fellata had a musket. The enemy kept up a slow and sure +fight, seldom throwing away their arrows, until they saw an +opportunity of letting fly with effect. Now and then a single +horseman would gallop up to the ditch, and brandish his spear, the +rider taking care to cover himself with his large leathern shield, +and return as fast as he went, generally calling out lustily, when he +got amongst his own party, "Shields to the walls! You people of the +gadado, (or atego, &c.) why do you not hasten to the wall?" To which +some voices would call out, "Oh, you have a good large shield to +cover you." The cry of "Shields to the wall!" was constantly heard +from the several chiefs to their troops; but they disregarded the +call, and neither chiefs nor vassals moved from the spot. At length +the men in quilted armour went up "per order." They certainly cut not +a bad figure at a distance, as their helmets were ornamented with +black and white ostrich feathers, and the sides of the helmets with +pieces of tin, which glittered in the sun; their long quilted cloaks +of gaudy colours reaching over part of their horses' tails, and +hanging over the flanks. On the neck, even the horses' armour was +notched or vandyked, to look like a mane; on his forehead, and over +his nose, was a brass or tin plate, also a semicircular piece on each +side. The rider was armed with a large spear, and he had to be +assisted to mount his horse, as his quilted cloak was too heavy; it +required two men to lift him on. There were six of them belonged to +each governor, and six to the sultan. It was at first supposed, that +the foot would take advantage of going under cover of these unwieldy +machines; but no, they went alone, as fast as the poor horses could +bear them, which was but a slow pace. They had one musket in Coonia, +and it did wonderful execution; for it brought down the van of the +quilted men, who fell from his horse like a sack of corn thrown from +a horse's back at a miller's door, but both horse and man were +brought off by two or three footmen. He got two balls through his +breast; one went through his body and both sides of the tobe; the +other went through and lodged in the quilted armour opposite the +shoulders. + +The cry of "Allahu akber!" (God is great), the cry of the Fellatas, +was resounded through the whole army every quarter of an hour; but +neither this nor "Shields to the walls!" nor "Why do not the gadado's +people go up?" had any effect, except to produce a scuffle amongst +themselves, when the chiefs would have to ride up and part their +followers, who, instead of fighting against the enemy, were more +likely to fight with one another. At sunset, the besiegers drew off, +and the harmless campaign terminated in a desertion on the part of +the Zirmee troops, followed by a general retreat. + +The flags of the Fellatas are white, like the French, and their staff +is a palm branch. They are not borne by men of honour, but by their +slaves. The sultan had six borne before him; each of the governors +had two. They also dress in white tobes and trousers, as an emblem of +their purity in faith and intention. The most useful personage in the +army, and as brave as any of them, was an old female slave of the +sultan's, a native of Zamfra, five of whose former governors, she +said, she had nursed. She was of a dark copper colour, in dress and +countenance very much like a female esquimaux. She was mounted on a +long-backed bright bay horse, with a scraggy tail, crop-eared, and +the mane, as if the rats had eaten part of it, nor was it very high +in condition. She rode a-straddle, had on a conical straw dish-cover +for a hat, or to shade her face from the sun; a short, dirty, white +bed-gown, a pair of dirty white loose and wide trousers, a pair of +Houssa boots, which are wide, and come over the knee, fastened with a +string round the waist. She had also a whip and spurs. At her +saddle-bow hung about half a dozen gourds filled with water, and a +brass basin to drink out of, and with this she supplied the wounded +and the thirsty. + +The army being disbanded, Clapperton obtained permission of the +sultan to proceed to Sockatoo, where he found every thing ready for +his reception, in the house, which he had occupied on his former +visit. The traveller, however, found an entire change in the feelings +of kindness and cordiality towards himself, which had been so +remarkably displayed in the previous journey. Jealousy had began to +fester in the breasts of the African princes. They dreaded some +ambitious design in these repeated expeditions sent out by England, +without any conceivable motive; for that men should undertake such +long journeys, out of mere curiosity, they could never imagine. The +sultan Bello had accordingly received a letter from the court of +Bornou, warning him that by this very mode of sending embassies and +presents, which the English were now following towards the states of +central Africa, they had made themselves masters of India, and +trampled on all its native princes. The writer therefore gave it as +his opinion, that the European travellers should immediately be put +to death. An alarm indeed had been spread through Sockatoo, that the +English were coming to invade Houssa. The sultan irritated doubtless +at the shameful result of his grand expedition against Coonia, felt +also another and more pressing fear. War had just broken out between +himself and the king of Bornou. Clapperton was on his way to visit +that prince, and had left six muskets at Kano, supposed to be +intended as presents to him; and six muskets in central Africa, where +the whole Fellata empire could scarcely muster forty, were almost +enough to turn the scale between those two great military powers. +Under the impulse of these feelings, Bello proceeded to steps not +exactly consistent with the character of a prince and a man of +honour. He demanded a sight of the letter which Clapperton was +conveying to the king of Bornou, and when this was, of course, +refused, he seized it by violence. Lander was induced by false +pretences to bring the baggage from Kano to Sockatoo, when forcible +possession was taken of the muskets. Clapperton loudly exclaimed +against these proceedings, declaring them to amount to the basest +robbery, to a breach of all faith, and to be the worst actions, of +which any man could be guilty. This was rather strong language to be +used to a sovereign, especially to one, who could at any moment have +cut off his head, and the prime ministers of the sultan dropped some +unpleasant hints, as if matters might come to that issue, though in +point of fact, the government did not proceed to any personal +outrage. On the contrary, Bello discovered an honourable anxiety to +explain his conduct, and to soothe the irritated feelings of the +traveller. He even wrote to him the following letter, which it must +be confessed, places the character of Bello in a very favourable +light. + + +"In the name of God, and praise be to God, &c. &c. To Abdallah +Clapperton, salutation and esteem. You are now our guest, and a guest +is always welcomed by us; you are the messenger of a king, and a +king's messenger is always honoured by us. You come to us under our +honour as an ambassador, and an ambassador is always protected by us. +There is no harm in the king's ministers sending you to the sheik +Kanemi, of Bornou, nor do we see any harm in your coming, when thus +sent. But when you formerly came to us from Bornou, peace was then +between us and the sheik; whereas there is now war between him and +ourselves; we cannot perceive any blame in our preventing warlike +stores being sent to him. We continue to maintain our faith with you, +and are ready to attend to all your wishes, because we consider you +as a trusty friend, and one who enjoys a high degree of esteem with +us. Do not encroach upon us, we will not encroach upon you; we have +rights to maintain, and you have also rights to be respected. And +Salam be to you." + +(Signed as usual.) + + +It is difficult to conceive, why so reasonable and friendly a letter +should have failed to subdue the irritation of the traveller; this +cannot be accounted for only by his ill health, or by supposing that +he was not exactly conversant with its contents. It appears, however, +that the conduct of Bello had such an effect upon the spirits of +Clapperton, that Lander reports, he never saw him smile afterwards. +The strong constitution of Clapperton, had till this period enabled +him to resist all the baneful influence of an African climate. He had +recovered, though perhaps not completely, from the effects of the +rash exposure which had proved fatal to his two companions, but +subsequently when overcome with heat and fatigue he had lain down on +a damp spot in the open air, he was soon after seized with dysentery, +which continued to assume more alarming symptoms. Unable to rise from +his bed, and deserted by all his African friends, who saw him no +longer a favourite at court, he was watched with tender care by his +faithful servant Lander, who devoted his whole time to attendance on +his sick master. At length he called him to his bed-side, and said, +"Richard, I shall shortly be no more; I feel myself dying." Almost +choked with grief, Lander replied, "God forbid, my dear master--you +will live many years yet." Clapperton replied, "don't be so much +affected, my dear boy, I entreat you, it is the will of the Almighty, +it cannot be helped. I should have wished to live to have been of +further use to my country--and more, I should like to have died in my +native land--but it is my duty to submit." He then gave particular +directions as to the disposal of his papers, and of all that remained +of his property, to which the strictest attention was promised. "He +then," says Lander, "took my hand within his, and looking me full in +the face, while a tear stood glistening in his eye, said in a low but +deeply affecting tone, 'My dear Richard, if you had not been with me, +I should have died long ago. I can only thank you with my latest +breath for your kindness and attachment to me, and if I could have +lived to return with you, you should have been placed beyond the +reach of want, but God will reward you.'" He survived some days, and +appeared even to rally a little, but one morning, Lander was alarmed +by a peculiar rattling sound in his throat, and hastening to the +bed-side found him sitting up, and staring wildly around; some +indistinct words quivered on his lips, he strove but ineffectually to +give them utterance, and expired without a struggle or a sigh. + +Bello seems to have repented in some degree of his harsh conduct, +especially after the news arrived of a great victory gained by his +troops over the sultan of Bornou. He allowed Lander to perform the +funeral obsequies with every mark of respect, agreeably to the +sultan's own directions at Jungavie, a small village on a rising +ground, about five miles to the S. E. of Sockatoo. Lander performed +the last sad office of reading the English service over the remains +of his generous and intrepid master; a house was erected over his +grave; + +"And he was left alone in his glory." + + + +CHAPTER XXVIII. + +Lander may now be said to be in the interior of Africa, a solitary +wanderer, dependent entirely on his own resources, at the same time +that he received from sultan Bello, all the requisite means to enable +him to return to his native country, allowing him to choose his own +road, though advising him to prefer that which led through the great +Desert, but Lander having already had many dealings with the Arabs, +preferred the track through the negro countries. + +On arriving at Kano, on his return route, Lander formed a spirited +and highly laudable design, which proved him to be possessed of a +mind much superior to his station, and this was nothing less than an +attempt to resolve the great question, respecting the termination of +the Niger, which he hoped to effect by proceeding to Funda, and +thence to Benin by water. Striking off to the eastward of the route, +on which, in company with his late master, he had reached Kano, he +passed several walled towns, all inhabited by natives of Houssa, +tributary to the Fellatas, and early on the third day from Bebajie, +(as he spells it,) arrived at the foot of a high craggy mountain, +called Almena, from a ruined town said to have been built by a queen +of the Fantee nation, some five hundred years ago. Mahomet, Lander's +servant, who had travelled far and near, and knew all the traditions +of the country, gave the following story:--About five hundred years +ago, a queen of the Fantee nation having quarrelled with her husband +about a golden stool, in other words, we presume about the throne, +probably after her husband's death, fled from her dominions with a +great number of her subjects, and built a large town at the foot of +this mountain, which she called Almena, from which it took its name. +The town, according Lander, was surrounded with a stone wall, as the +ruins plainly attest. The M. S. account of Tukroor evidently alludes +to the same personage. The first who ruled over them, that is the +seven provinces of Houssa, was, as it is stated, Amenah, daughter of +the prince of Zag Zag, (Zeg Zeg?) She conquered them by the force of +her sword, and subjected them, including Kashna and Kano, to be her +tributaries. She fought and took possession of the country of +Bowsher, till she reached the coast of the ocean on the right hand, +and west side. She died at Atagara. + +The gigantic blocks of granite forming the mountain Almena, fearfully +piled on each other, and seeming ready to fall, are described as +resembling the rocks near the Logan stone in Cornwall, but on a scale +infinitely larger. To the eastward, a range of high hills was seen +stretching from north to south, as far as the eye could reach, and +Lander was informed that they extended to the salt water. They were +said to be inhabited by a savage race of people called Yamyams, that +is cannibals, who had formerly carried on an extensive traffic with +the Houssa men, bringing elephants' teeth, and taking in exchange red +cloth, beads, &c., but five years before, they had murdered a whole +kafila of merchants, and afterwards eaten them, since which time, the +Houssa people had been reasonably shy of dealing with them. + +Sultan Bello informed Lander that he had ocular proof of the fact, +that these same people are in the practice of eating human flesh. The +sultan said, that on the governor of Jacoba telling him of these +people, he could scarcely believe it, but on a Tuarick being hanged +for theft, he saw five of these people eat a part, with which he was +so disgusted, that he sent them back to Jacoba soon after. He said, +that whenever a person complained of sickness amongst these men, even +though only a slight headache, he is killed instantly, for fear he +should be lost by death, as they will not eat a person that has died +by sickness; that the person falling sick is requested by some other +family, and repaid when they had a sick relation; that universally, +when they went to war, the dead and wounded were always eaten; that +the hearts were claimed by the head men, and that on asking them, why +they ate human flesh, they said, it was better than any other, that +they had no want or food, and that excepting this bad custom, they +were very cleanly, and otherwise not bad people, except that they +were kaffirs. + +As far as the route of Lander had hitherto extended, all the streams +that were crossed had a north-westerly course, and on the fifth day, +he reached a large river running in the same direction called Accra. +On the following day proceeding S. W., he arrived at Nammalack, built +immediately under a mountain, which, rising almost perpendicularly, +forms a natural wall on the north-eastern side. It is thickly wooded +and abounds with thousands of hyenas, tiger cats, jackals, and +monkeys, who monopolize all the animal food in the neighbourhood, the +poor inhabitants not being able to keep a single bullock, sheep, or +goat. + +For four hours beyond this town, Lander's route continued along the +foot of this range of mountains, in a continued direction of S. W., +it then turned eastward through an opening in the range, and after +crossing one large and three small rivers, led to Fillindushie, the +frontier town of Catica. Lander speaks of the Catica or Bowchee +people as the same. This district must, therefore, belong to the +Bowchee country, which forms part of Zeg Zeg, according to the M. S. +account of Tackroor, apparently on the Boushy, that is infidel or +kirdy country, bordering on Yacoba. + +The inhabitants of Catica are described as a fine handsome people, +with features not at all resembling those of the negro race, and very +similar to the European, but below the negroes in civilization, +without any clothing, filthy in person, disgusting in manners, and +destitute of natural affection; the parent selling his child with no +more remorse or repugnance than he would his chicken, yet at the same +time, by way of contrast, artless and good humoured. Their appearance +is extremely barbarous and repulsive. They rub red clay softened with +oil over their heads and bodies, and invariably wear a large +semicircular piece of blue glass in the upper and lower lip, with +ear-pendants of red wood. They make fetishes like the natives of +Yariba. + +Turning again to the S. W., the route now led over a fine and rich +country, to a large river rolling to the N. W., called Coodoma +(Kadoma,) which empties itself into the Quorra, near Funda. Lander +reached the north-eastern bank on the tenth day, and on the morrow +after three hours travelling reached Cuttup. Having heard on his +route many different reports of the wealth, population and celebrated +market of this place, he was surprised to find it to consist of +nearly five hundred villages, almost joining each other, occupying a +vast and beautiful plain, adorned with the finest trees. Amongst +these, the plantain, the palm, and the cocoa-nut tree, were seen +flourishing in great abundance, and the aspect of the country +strikingly resembled some parts of Yariba. A considerable traffic is +carried on here in slaves and bullocks, which are alike exposed in +the daily market. The bullocks are bred by the Fellatas, who reside +there for no other purpose. + +The sultan of Cuttup being a very great man, that is, in his own +estimation, Lander made him a suitable present of four yards of blue +damask, the same quantity of scarlet, a print of George IV., one of +the late duke of York, which, we have reason to suppose, was held in +higher estimation than his whole-length colossal figure on the top of +the pedestal in this country, which has the superlative honour of +calling him one of the most meritorious, most puissant, and most +honourable of the royal blood. Lander also made the sultan a present +of _other trifling articles,_ in return for which he received a +sheep, the humps, or we should call it the rumps, of two bullocks, +and stewed rice sufficient for fifty men, not being able at the time +to form an accurate opinion of the extent of Lander's gourmandizing +appetite, or most probably, as is generally the case in countries +situated farther to the northward, judging of the appetite of others +by his own. During the four days that Lander remained in these +hospitable quarters, he was never in want of provisions, nor do we +see how it was possible that he should be, when he had two rumps of +beef, from which he could at any time cut a steak, which the most +finished epicurean of Dolly's would not turn up his nose at, and +stewed rice, as an entremet, sufficient for the gastronomic powers of +fifty men. When it is also considered, that the sultan invariably +receives as a tax the hump of every bullock that is slaughtered, +weighing from twelve to fifteen pounds, and the choicest part of the +animal, it is somewhat surprising that the country does not abound +with _hump_-backed tyrants, similar to the notorious Richard of +England; at all events, Lander had to congratulate himself that the +humps, or rumps, were sent to him daily by the king's wives, we will +suppose, out of the pure spirit of charity and benevolence, on the +same principle, perhaps, that the widow Zuma invited Lander to take +up his abode in her house. + +It was very proper that Lander should make a return to the sultan's +wives for their rumps of beef, and, therefore, he presented them with +one or two gilt buttons from his jacket, and they, imagining them to +be pure gold, fastened them to their ears. Little, however, did the +Birmingham manufacturer suppose, when he issued these buttons from +his warehouse, that they were destined one day to glitter as pendants +in the ears of the wives of the sultan of Cuttup, in the heart of +Africa; truly may it be said with Shakespeare, + +"To what vile uses may we come at last!" + +It is very possible, from some cause not worthy here of +investigation, that one of the wives of the sultan had contrived to +obtain a higher place in the estimation of Lander, than any of her +other compeers; but, as a proof that great events from trivial causes +flow, it happened that Lander set the whole court of Cuttup in a +hubbub and confusion by a very simple act, to which no premeditated +sin could be attached, and this act was no other, than presenting one +of the wives of the sultan secretly, clandestinely, and covertly, +with a most valuable article, in the shape of a large darning needle, +which he carried about with him, for the purpose of repairing any +sudden detriment, that might happen to any part of his habiliments. A +female, whether European or African, generally takes a pride in +displaying the presents that have been made her; and the favoured +wife of the sultan no sooner displayed the present which she had +received, than the spirit of jealousy and envy burst forth in the +breast of all the remaining wives. It was a fire not easily to be +quenched; it pervaded every part of the residence of the sultan; it +penetrated into every hut, where one of the wives resided; discord, +quarrels, and battles became the order of the day, and Lander was +obliged to make a precipitate retreat from a place, where he had +incautiously and innocently raised such a rebellion. On relating this +anecdote to us, Lander declared, that, with a good supply of needles +in his possession, he would not despair of obtaining every necessary +article and accommodation throughout the whole of central Africa. + +On leaving Cuttup, Lander proceeded south-south-west, over a hilly +country, and on the following day, crossed the Rary, a large river +flowing to the south-east. The next day, part of the route lay over +steep and craggy precipices, some of them of the most awful height. +From the summit of this pass, he obtained a very beautiful and +extensive prospect, which would indicate the elevation to be indeed +very considerable. Eight days' journey might plainly be seen before +him. About half a day's journey to the east, stood a lofty hill, at +the foot of which lay the large city of Jacoba. In the evening, he +reached Dunrora, a town containing about four thousand inhabitants. + +Lander had now reached the latitude of Funda, which, according to his +information, lies about twelve days due west of Dunrora, and after +seventeen perilous days' travelling from Kano, he seemed to be on the +point of solving the great geographical problem respecting the +termination of the supposed Niger, when, just as he was leaving +Dunrora, four armed messengers from the sultan of Zeg Zeg rode up to +him, bearing orders for his immediate return to the capital. +Remonstrance was in vain; and, with a bad grace and a heavy heart, +poor Lander complied with the mandate. He was led back to Cuttup by +the same route that he had taken, and here, much against the +inclination of his guards, he remained four days, suffering under an +attack of dysentery. On his arrival at Zaria, he was introduced to +the king; and having delivered his presents, that prince boasted of +having conferred on him the greatest possible favour, since the +people of Funda, being now at war with sultan Bello, would certainly +have murdered any one, who had visited and carried gifts to that +monarch. From this reasoning, sound or otherwise, Lander had no +appeal, and was obliged to make his way back by his former path. + +The subsequent part of his route was, however, rather more to the +westward of his former track. The Koodoonia, where he crossed it, was +much deeper, as well as broader, and much more rapid. On Lander +refusing to cross the river till it had become more shallow, his +guards left him in great wrath, threatening to report his conduct to +their master, and they did not return for a fortnight, during which +time, Lander remained at a Bowchee village, an hour distant, very +ill, having nothing to eat but boiled corn, not much relishing +_roasted dog._ The inhabitants, who came by hundreds every day to +visit him, were destitute of any clothing, but behaved in a modest +and becoming manner. The men did not appear to have any occupation or +employment whatever. The women were generally engaged, the greater +part of the day, in manufacturing oil from a black seed and the +Guinea nut. + +Not deeming it safe, according to the advice of the sultan of Zeg +Zeg, to pursue his homeward way by the route of Funda, he chose the +Youriba road; and, after serious delays, he reached Badagry on the +21st November 1827; but here he was nearly losing his life, owing to +the vindictive jealousy of the Portuguese slave-merchants, who +denounced him to the king as a spy sent by the English government. +The consequence was, that it was resolved by the chief men to subject +him to the ordeal of drinking a fetish. "If you come to do bad," they +said, "it will kill you; but if not, it cannot hurt you." There was +no alternative or escape. Poor Lander swallowed the contents of the +bowl, and then walked hastily out of the hut through the armed men +who surrounded it, to his own lodgings, where he lost no time in +getting rid of the fetish drink by a powerful emetic. He afterwards +learned, that it almost always proved fatal. When the king and his +chiefs found, after five days, that Lander survived, they changed +their minds, and became extremely kind, concluding that he was under +the special protection of God. The Portuguese, however, he had reason +to believe, would have taken the first opportunity to assassinate +him. His life at this place was in continual danger, until, +fortunately, Captain Laing, of the brig Maria of London, of which +Fullerton was the chief mate, and afterwards commander, hearing that +there was a white man about sixty miles up the country, who was in a +most deplorable condition, and suspecting that he might be one of the +travellers sent out on the expedition to explore the interior of +Africa, despatched a messenger with instructions to bring him away. +The parties who held him were, however, not disposed to part with him +without a ransom, the amount of which was fixed at nearly £70, which +was paid by Captain Laing in broadcloths, gunpowder, and other +articles, and which was subsequently refunded by the African Society. +Lander arrived in England on the 30th April 1828, on which occasion +we were introduced to him by the late Captain Fullerton, from whose +papers the following history of Lander's second journey is compiled. + + + +CHAPTER XXIX. + +The journeys of Denham and Clapperton made a great accession to our +knowledge of interior Africa, they having completed a diagonal +section from Tripoli to the gulf of Benin; they explored numerous +kingdoms, either altogether unknown, or indicated only by the most +imperfect rumour. New mountains, lakes, and rivers had been +discovered and delineated, yet the course of the Niger remained wrapt +in mystery nearly as deep as ever. Its stream had been traced very +little lower than Boussa, which Park had reached, and where his +career was brought to so fatal a termination. The unhappy issue of +Clapperton's last attempt chilled for a time the zeal for African +discovery; but that high spirit of adventure which animates Britons +was soon found acting powerfully in a quarter, where there was least +reason to expect it. Partaking of the character which animated his +master, Lander endeavoured, on his return towards the coast, to +follow a direction, which, but for unforeseen circumstances, would +have led to the solution of the great problem. After reaching +England, he still cherished the same spirit; in our frequent +conversations with him, he expressed it to be his decided opinion, +that the termination of the Niger would be found between the fifth +and tenth degree of north latitude, and his subsequent discoveries +proved his opinion to be correct. Undeterred by the recollection of +so much peril and hardship, he tendered his services to the +government to make one effort more, in order to reach the mouth of +this mysterious river; his offer was accepted, but on terms which +make it abundantly evident that the enterprise was not undertaken +from any mercenary impulse. The manner in which he had acquitted +himself of his trust, amidst the difficulties with which he had to +contend after the death of Clapperton, bespoke him as being worthy to +be sent out on such a mission, when scientific observations were not +expected, and the result has proved the justness of the opinion, that +was entertained of him. Descended from Cornish parents, having been +born at Truro, and not gifted with any extraordinary talent, it was +not his fortune to boast either the honour of high birth, or even to +possess the advantages of a common-place education. His leading +quality was a determined spirit of perseverance, which no obstacles +could intimidate or subdue. In society, particularly in the company +of those distinguished for their talents or literary attainments, his +reserve and bashfulness were insuperable, and it was not until a +degree of intimacy was established by frequent association, that he +could be brought to communicate the sentiments of his mind, or to +impress a belief upon the company, that he was possessed of any +superior qualifications. + +His younger brother, John Lander, who, influenced by a laudable +desire to assist in the solution of the geographical problem, was of +a very different turn of mind. He was brought up to the profession of +a printer, and, as a compositor, had frequent opportunities of +enriching his mind with various branches of knowledge, and in time +became himself the author of several essays in prose and verse, by no +means discreditable to his talents. Being naturally gifted with an +exuberant imagination, his descriptions partake of the inflated and +bombastic; but we have reason to know, that the information which he +gives is deduced from authentic sources, without the usual +exaggeration proverbially belonging to travellers. + +The following were the instructions given by government to Richard +Lander:-- + + +"Downing-street, 31st December 1829. + +"Sir, + +"I am directed by secretary Sir George Murray to acquaint you, that +he has deemed it expedient to accept the offer, which you have made, +to proceed to Africa, accompanied by your brother, for the purpose of +ascertaining the course of the great river, which was crossed by the +late Captain Clapperton on his journey to Sockatoo; and a passage +having been accordingly engaged for you and your brother, on board of +the Alert, merchant vessel, which is proceeding to Cape Coast Castle, +on the western coast of Africa, I am to desire that you will embark +immediately on board that vessel. + +"In the event of your falling in with any of his Majesty's ships of +war on the coast of Africa, previously to your arrival at Cape Coast +Castle, you will prevail on the master to use every endeavour to +speak with such ship of war, and to deliver to the officer commanding +her, the letter of which you are the bearer, and which is to require +him to convey yourself and your brother to Badagry, to present you to +the king, and to give you such assistance as may be required to +enable you to set out on your journey. + +"You should incur as little delay as possible at Badagry, in order +that, by reaching the hilly country, you may be more secure from +those fevers, which are known to be prevalent on the low lands of the +sea-coast. You are to proceed by the same road as on a previous +occasion, as far as Katunga, unless you shall be able to find, on the +northern side of the mountains, a road which will lead to Funda, on +the Quorra or Niger; in which case, you are to proceed direct to +Funda. If, however, it should be necessary to go as far as Katunga, +you are to use your endeavours to prevail on the chief of that +country to assist you on your way to the Quorra, and with the means +of tracing down, either by land or water, the course of that river as +far as Funda. + +"On your arrival at this place, you are to be very particular in your +observations, so as to enable you to give a correct statement. + +"1st, Whether any, and what rivers fall into the Quorra at or near +that place; or whether the whole or any part of the Quorra turns to +the eastward. + +"2nd, Whether there is at Funda, or in the neighbourhood, any lake or +collection of waters or large swamps; in which case, you are to go +round such lake or swamp, and be very particular in examining whether +any river flows _into_ or _out_ of it, and in what direction it takes +its course. + +"3rd, If you should find that at Funda, the Quorra continues to flow +to the southward, you are to follow it to the sea, where, in this +case, it may be presumed to empty its waters; but if it should be +found to turn off to the eastward, in which case it will most +probably fall into the lake Tchad, you are to follow its course in +that direction, as far as you conceive you can venture to do, with +due regard to your personal safety, to Bornou; in which case it will +be for you to determine, whether it may not be advisable to return +home by the way of Fezzan and Tripoli: if, however, after proceeding +in an easterly course for some distance, the river should be found to +turn off towards the south, you are to follow it, as before, down to +the sea. In short, after having once gained the banks of the Quorra, +either from Katunga or lower down, you are to follow its course, if +possible, to its termination, wherever that may be. + +"Should you be of opinion that the sultan of Youri can safely be +communicated with, you are at liberty to send your brother with a +present to that chief, to ask, in the king's name, for certain books +or papers, which he is supposed to have, that belonged to the late +Mr. Park; but you are not necessarily yourself to wait for your +brother's return, but to proceed in the execution of the main object +of your mission, to ascertain the course and termination of the +Niger. + +"You are to take every opportunity of sending down to the coast a +brief extract of your proceedings and observations, furnishing the +bearer with a note, setting forth the reward he is to have for his +trouble, and requesting any English person to whom it is presented to +pay that reward, on the faith that it will be repaid him by the +British government. + +"For the performance of this service, you are furnished with all the +articles which you have required for your personal convenience during +your journey, together with a sum of two hundred dollars in coin; and +in case, upon your arrival at Badagry, you should find it absolutely +necessary to provide yourself with a further supply of dollars, you +will be at liberty to draw upon this department for any sum not +exceeding three hundred dollars. + +"During the ensuing year, the sum of one hundred pounds will be paid +to your wife in quarterly payments; and upon your return, a gratuity +of one hundred pounds will be paid to yourself. + +"All the papers and observations, which you shall bring back with +you, are to be delivered by you at this office; and you will be +entitled to receive any pecuniary consideration which may be obtained +from the publication of the account of your journey. "I am, Sir, &c. +&c. + +(Signed) "R. W. HAY." + +"To Mr. Richard Lander." + + +In pursuance of these instructions, Richard Lander and his brother +embarked at Portsmouth, on the 9th January 1830, in the brig Alert, +for Cape Coast Castle, where they arrived on the 22nd of the +following month, after a boisterous and unpleasant passage. Here they +were fortunate enough to engage old Pascoe and his wife, with Jowdie, +who had been employed on the last expedition, with Ibrahim and Mina, +two Bornou men, who were well acquainted with English manners, and +could converse in the Houssa language. These individuals promised to +be very useful on the expedition, more especially old Pascoe, whose +merits as an interpreter were unquestionable. + +After remaining at Cape Coast Castle eight days, they accompanied Mr. +M'Lean, the president of the council at that place, on a visit to Mr. +Hutchinson, commandant at Anamaboo, about nine miles distant from +Cape Coast. Mr. Hutchinson lived in his castle, like an English baron +in the feudal times, untinctured, however, by barbarism or ignorance; +for the polished, refinements of life have insinuated themselves into +his dwelling, though it is entirely surrounded by savages, and though +the charming sound of a lady's voice is seldom or never heard in his +lonely hall. His silken banner, his turreted castle, his devoted +vassals, his hospitality, and even his very solitariness, all +conspired to recall to the mind the manners and way of life of an old +English baron, in one of the most interesting periods of our history, +whilst the highly chivalrous and romantic spirit of the gentleman +alluded to, was strictly in unison with the impression. Mr. +Hutchinson had resided a number of years on the coast, and was one of +the few individuals, who had visited the capital of Ashantee, in +which he resided eight months, and obtained a better acquaintance +with the manners, customs, and pursuits of that warlike, +enterprising, and original nation, than any other European whatever. +In the Ashantee war he took a very active part, and rendered +important and valuable services to the cause he so warmly espoused. + +They resided at the fort till the 4th March, and then sailed in the +Alert for Accra, where they expected to find a vessel to take them to +Badagry, in the Bight of Benin, agreeably to their instructions. + +In two days they arrived opposite the British fort at Accra, and, +after staying there a week, they embarked on board the Clinker, +Lieutenant Matson, commander; and having sailed direct for Badagry, +they dropped anchor in the roadstead in the front of that town on the +19th. From the commander of the Clinker they received a young man of +colour, named Antonio, son to the chief of Bonny, who eagerly +embraced the opportunity of proceeding with them into the interior, +being impressed with the notion that he should be enabled to reach +his home and country by means of the Great River, or Niger. + +In the earlier part of the afternoon of the 22nd March, they sailed +towards the beach in one of the brig's boats, and having been taken +into a canoe that was waiting at the edge of the breakers to receive +them, they were plied over a tremendous surf, and flung with violence +on the burning sands. + +Wet and uncomfortable as this accident had rendered them, having no +change of linen at hand, they walked to a small creek about the +distance of a quarter of a mile from the sea shore, where they were +taken into a native canoe, and conveyed safely through an extremely +narrow channel, overhung with luxuriant vegetation, into the Badagry +river, which is a branch of the Lagos. It is a beautiful body of +water, resembling a lake in miniature; its surface is smooth and +transparent as glass, and its picturesque banks are shaded by trees +of a lively verdure. They were soon landed on the opposite side, when +their road lay over a magnificent plain, on which deer, antelopes, +and buffaloes were often observed to feed. Numbers of men, women, and +children followed them to the town of Badagry, making the most +terrific noises at their heels, but whether these were symptoms of +satisfaction or displeasure, admiration or ridicule, they could not +at first understand. They were soon, however, satisfied that the +latter feeling was predominant, and indeed their clothing was +sufficient to excite the laughter of any people, for it certainly was +not African, nor had it any pretensions to be characterized as +European. In the first place, the covering of the head consisted of a +straw hat, larger than an umbrella, a scarlet mahommedan tobe or +tunic and belt, with boots, and full Turkish trousers. So unusual a +dress might well cause the people to laugh heartily; they were all +evidently highly amused, but the more modest of the females, +unwilling to give them any uneasiness, turned aside to conceal the +titter, from which they were utterly unable to refrain. + +On their way they observed various groups of people seated under the +spreading branches of superb trees, vending provisions and country +cloth, and on their approach, many of them arose and bowed, whilst +others fell on their knees before them in token of respect. They +reached the dwelling, which had been prepared for them about three +o'clock in the afternoon, but as the day was too far advanced to +visit the chief or king, they sent a messenger to inform him of their +intention of paying him their respects on the following morning. + +Towards evening, Richard Lander his brother being too fatigued to +accompany him, took a saunter in the immediate vicinity of his +residence, when he found, that in one respect, the streets of +Badagry, if they might be so called, and the streets of London, bore +a very great resemblance. It might be the mere effect of female +curiosity, to ascertain what kind of a man's visage could possibly be +concealed under such a preposterous hat, or it might be for any other +purpose, which his penetration could not discover, but certain it +was, that ever and anon a black visage, with white and pearly teeth, +and an expressive grin of the countenance, somewhat similar to that +of the monkey in a state of excited pleasure, protruded itself under +the canopy of straw, which protected his head, but he, who had +withstood the amorous advances of the widow Zuma, or of the fat and +deaf widow Laddie, could not be supposed to yield to the fascinations +and allurements of a Badagry houri. Richard therefore returned to his +dwelling, fully satisfied with himself, but by no means having +satisfied the ladies of Badagry, that an European was a man of love +or gallantry. + +At nine o'clock on the morning of the 23rd March, agreeably to the +promise which they had made on the preceding day, they visited the +chief at his residence, which was somewhat more than half a mile from +their own. On their entrance, the potent chief of Badagry was sitting +on a couple of boxes, which, for aught Lander knew, might at one time +have belonged to a Hong merchant at Canton; the boxes were placed in +a small bamboo apartment, on the sides of which were suspended a +great number of muskets and swords, with a few paltry umbrellas, and +a couple of horses' tails, which are used for the purpose of brushing +away flies and other insects. + +King Adooley looked up in the faces of his visitors without making +any observation, it perhaps not being the etiquette of kings in that +part of the world, to make any observation at all on subjects before +them, nor did he even condescend to rise from his seat to +congratulate them on their arrival. He appeared in deep reflection, +and thoughtfully rested his elbow on an old wooden table, pillowing +his head on his hand. One of the most venerable and ancient of his +subjects was squatted at the feet of his master, smoking from a pipe +of extraordinary length; whilst Lantern, his eldest son and heir +apparent, was kneeling at his side, the Badagry etiquette not +allowing the youth to sit in the presence of his father. Everything +bore an air of gloom and sadness, totally different from what they +had been led to expect. They shook hands, but the royal pressure was +so very faint, that it was scarcely perceptible, yet, notwithstanding +this apparent coldness, they seated themselves one on each side, +without ceremony or embarrassment. It was evident that neither Lander +nor his brother knew how to deport themselves in the presence of a +king, a thing which the former had never seen in his life but at the +courts of Africa, and they, God knows, were not calculated to give +him an exalted idea of royalty; but when it had been ascertained, +that it was contrary to etiquette at the court of Badagry, for even +the heir apparent to assume any other attitude in the royal presence +than that of kneeling, it might have occurred to the European +travellers, that seating themselves without permission, in the +presence of so august a personage as the king of Badagry, might be +the forerunner of their heads being severed from their body, which, +as it has been detailed in a preceding part of this work, is in that +part of the country, a ceremony very easily and speedily despatched. +It was, however, necessary that some conversation should take place +between the king and his visitors, and therefore the latter began in +the true old English fashion, to inquire about the state of his +health, not forgetting to inform him at the same time, that they +found the weather uncommonly hot, which could not well have been +otherwise, considering that they were at that moment not much more +than 5° to the northward of the equator. In regard to the state of +his health, he answered them only with a languid smile, and relapsed +into his former thoughtlessness. Not being able to break in upon the +taciturnity of the monarch, they had recourse to a method which +seldom fails of "unknitting the brow of care," and that was by a +display to the best advantage, of the presents, which they had +brought for him from England. Badagry is not the only kingdom in +which, if a present be made to the king, the sole return that is +received for it, is the honour of having been allowed to offer it, +and this experience was acquired by our travellers, for the king +certainly accepted the presents, but without the slightest +demonstration of pleasure or satisfaction; the king scarcely deigned +to look at the presents, and they were carried away by the +attendants, with real or seeming indifference. To be permitted to +kiss the hand of the sable monarch could not rationally be expected, +as an honour conferred upon them for the presents, which they had +delivered, but it was mortifying to them not to receive a word of +acknowledgement, not even the tithe of a gracious smile; they +accordingly said not a word, but they had seen enough to convince +them that all was not right. A reserve, the cause whereof they could +not define, and a coldness towards them, for which they could in no +wise account, marked the conduct of the once spirited and +good-natured chief of Badagry, and prepared them to anticipate +various difficulties in the prosecution of their plans, which they +were persuaded would require much art and influence to surmount. The +brow of the monarch relaxed for a moment, and an attempt was made on +the part of Richard Lander to enter into conversation with him, but +on a sudden the king rose from his boxes, and left them to converse +with themselves. + +After waiting a considerable time, and the king not returning, a +messenger was despatched to acquaint him, that the patience of his +visitors was nearly exhausted, and they would feel obliged by his +immediate return, in order to put an end to their conference or +palaver, as it is emphatically styled, as speedily as possible. On +the receipt of this message, the king hastened back, and entered the +apartment with a melancholy countenance, which was partially +concealed behind large volumes of smoke, from a tobacco pipe, which +he was using. He seated himself between them as before, and gave them +to understand in a very low tone of voice, that he was but just +recovering from a severe illness, and from the effect of a series of +misfortunes, which had rendered him almost brokenhearted. His +celebrated generals Bombanee and Poser, and all his most able +warriors had either been slain in battle, or fallen by other violent +means. The former in particular, whose loss he more especially +lamented, had been captured by the Lagos people, who were his most +inveterate enemies. When this unfortunate man was taken prisoner, his +right hand was immediately nailed to his head, and the other lopped +off like a twig. In this manner he was paraded through the town, and +exposed to the view of the people, whose curiosity being satiated, +Bombanee's head was at length severed from his shoulders, and being +dried in the sun and beaten to dust, was sent in triumph to the chief +of Badagry. To add to his calamities, Adooley's house, which +contained an immense quantity of gunpowder, had been blown up by +accident, and destroyed all his property, consisting of a variety of +presents, most of them very valuable, that had been made him by +Captain Clapperton, by European merchants, and traders in slaves. The +chief and his women escaped with difficulty from the conflagration; +but as it was the custom to keep the muskets and other firearms +constantly loaded, their contents were discharged into the bodies and +legs of those individuals, who had flocked to the spot on the first +alarm. The flames spread with astonishing rapidity, notwithstanding +every exertion, and ended in the destruction of a great part of the +town. This accounted in some measure for the sad and grievous +expression so strongly depicted on the chiefs countenance; but still +another and more powerful reason had doubtless influenced him on this +occasion. + +On returning to their residence, a number of principal men, as they +style themselves, were introduced to compliment them on coming to +their country, although their true and only motive for visiting their +quarters was the expectation of obtaining rum, which is the great +object of attraction to all of them. They had been annoyed during the +greater part of this day by a tribe of ragged beggars, whose +importunity was really disgusting. The men were in general old, +flat-headed, and pot-bellied. The women skinny and flap-eared. To +these garrulous ladies and gentlemen they were obliged to talk and +laugh, shake hands, crack fingers, bend their bodies, bow their +heads, and place their hands with great solemnity on their heads and +breasts. They had not indeed a moment's relaxation from this +excessive fatigue, and had Job, amongst his other trials, been +exposed to the horrors of an interminable African palaver, his +patience would most certainly have forsaken him. Lander was of +opinion that he never would be a general favourite with this +ever-grinning and loquacious people. If he laughed, and he was +obliged to laugh, it was done against his inclination, and +consequently with a very bad grace. At this time, Lander, speaking of +himself, says, "for the first five years of my life, I have been +told, that I was never even seen to smile, and since that period, +Heaven knows my merriment has been confined to particular and +extraordinary occasions only. How then is it possible, that I can be +grinning and playing the fool from morning to night, positively +without any just incentive to do so, and sweltering at the same time +under a sun that causes my body to burn with intense heat, giving it +the appearance of shrivelled parchment. Fortunately these +savages--for savages they most certainly are in the fullest extent of +the word--cannot distinguish between real and fictitious joy; and +although I was vexed at heart, and wished them, all at the bottom of +the Red Sea, or somewhere else, I have every reason to believe that +my forced attempts to please the natives have so far been successful, +and that I have obtained the reputation, which I certainly do not +deserve, of being one of the pleasantest and best-tempered persons in +the world." + +This candid exposition, which Lander gives of his own character is +fully borne out by our own personal observation. On no occasion do we +remember that we ever saw a smile sit upon his countenance, and as to +a laugh, it appeared to be an act which he dreaded to commit. He +seemed always to be brooding over some great and commanding idea, +which absorbed the whole of his mind, and which he felt a +consciousness within him, that he had not the ability to carry into +execution, at the same time that he feared to let a word escape him, +which could give a clue to the subject, which was then working within +him. In this respect, he was not well fitted for a traveller in a +country where, if his nature would not allow him, it became a matter +of policy, if not of necessity, to appear high-hearted and gay, and +frequently to join in the amusements of the people amongst whom he +might be residing. Lander himself was not ignorant of the Arab adage, +"Beware of the man who never laughs;" and, therefore, as he was +likely to be thrown amongst those very people, he ought to have +practised himself in the art of laughing, so as not to rouse their +suspicions, which, it is well known, if once roused, are not again +easily allayed. + +To return to the narrative, one of the fetishmen sent them a present +of a duck, almost as large as an English goose; but as the fellow +expected ten times its value in return, it was no great proof of the +benevolence of his disposition. They were now obliged to station +armed men around their house, for the purpose of protecting their +goods from the rapacity of a multitude of thieves that infested this +place, and who displayed the greatest cunning imaginable to +ingratiate themselves with the travellers. On the following morning, +they awoke unrefreshed at daybreak; the noise of children crying, the +firing of guns, and the discordant sound of drums and horns, +preventing them from enjoying the sweetness of repose, so infinitely +desirable, after a long day spent in a routine or tiresome ceremony +and etiquette. + +On the 24th March, one of the chief messengers, who was a Houssa +mallam, or priest, presented himself at the door of their house, +followed by a large and handsome spotted sheep from his native +country, whose neck was adorned with little bells, which made a +pretty jingling noise. They were much prepossessed in this man's +favour by the calmness and serenity of his countenance, and the +modesty, or rather timidity of his manners. He was dressed in the +Houssa costume, cap, tobe, trousers, and sandals. He wore four large +silver rings on his thumb, and his left wrist was ornamented with a +solid silver bracelet: this was the only individual, who had as yet +visited them purely from disinterested motives, as all the others +made a practice to beg whenever they favoured them with their +company. + +The chief's eldest son was with them during the greater part of this +day. The manners of this young man were reserved, but respectful. +He was a great admirer of the English, and had obtained a smattering +of their language. Although his appearance was extremely boyish, he +had already three wives, and was the father of two children. His +front teeth were filed to a point, after the manner of the Logos +people; but, notwithstanding this disadvantage, his features bore +less marks of ferocity than they had observed in the countenance of +any one of his countrymen, while his general deportment was +infinitely more pleasing and humble than theirs. When asked whether, +if it were in his power to do so, he would injure the travellers, or +any European, who might hereafter visit Badagry, he made no reply, +but silently approached their seat, and falling on his knees at their +feet, he pressed Richard Lander with eagerness to his soft naked +bosom, and affectionately kissed his hand. No language or expression +could have been half so eloquent. + +They were now preparing to proceed on their journey, when they +learned with surprise and sorrow, that a part of the populace had +expressed themselves decidedly hostile to their projects, and that +the leaders were continually with Adooley, using all their influence, +and exercising all their cunning, in order to awaken his slumbering +jealousy. They endeavoured to persuade him to demand, before he +granted them leave to pass through his country, a sum of money, +which, they were aware, was not in the power of the travellers to +pay; and therefore it was imagined they would be compelled to abandon +the undertaking. The first intimation they received of the effect of +these insinuations on the mind of the chief, was brought to them by a +person, who pronounced himself to be "on their side." This man +assured them, with an ominous visage, that Adooley had declared, in +the hearing of all the people, that the coat which Richard Lander had +given him was intended for a boy, and not a man; it was therefore +unworthy his acceptance as a king, and he considered that by the +gift, they meant to insult him. The coat alluded to by Adooley was +certainly extremely old-fashioned, and belonged to a surgeon in the +navy about twenty years ago, notwithstanding which, it was almost as +good as new, and was made showy by the addition of a pair of +tarnished gold epaulets. It was, however, clear to Lander, that as +this very same coat had been, only two days before, received with +great satisfaction, that some enemy of theirs had been striving to +render the chief discontented and mistrustful. To counteract the +efforts of the malicious, they judged it prudent to sound the +dispositions of those, who they were inclined to believe, from the +fondness which they evinced for their rum, that they were favourable +to their intentions and devoted to their interests. + +At this time, there were two mulattoes residing in the town, one of +whom, by name Hooper, acted as interpreter to Adooley, and shared a +good deal of his confidence. He was born at Cape Coast Castle, in +1780, and was for many years a soldier in the African corps. His +father was an Englishman, and he boasted of being a British subject. +He was excessively vain of his origin, yet he was the most confirmed +drunkard alive, always getting intoxicated before breakfast, and +remaining in a soaking state all day long. This did not, however, +make him regardless of his own interest, to which, on the contrary, +he was ever alive, and indeed sacrificed every other feeling. The +other mulatto could read and write English tolerably well, having +received his education at Sierra Leone; he was a slave to Adooley, +and was almost as great a drunkard as Hooper. These drunken political +advisers of the chief they had little difficulty in bribing over to +their interests; they had likewise been tampering with several native +chiefs, apparently with equal success. Unfortunately every one here +styled himself a great and powerful man, and Hooper himself calls a +host of ragged scoundrels "noblemen and gentlemen," each of whom he +advised Lander to conciliate with presents, and especially spirituous +liquors, in order to do away any evil impression they might secretly +have received, and obtain their suffrages, though it should be at the +expense of half the goods in their possession. There is hardly any +knowing who is monarch here, or even what form of government +prevails; independently of the king of kings himself, the redoubtable +Adooley, four fellows assume the title of royalty, namely, the kings +of Spanish-town, of Portuguese-town, of English-town, and of +French-town, Badagry being divided into four districts, bearing the +names of the European nations just mentioned. + +Toward the evening, they received an invitation from the former of +these chieftains, who by all accounts was originally the sole +governor of the country, until his authority was wrested from him by +a more powerful hand. He was then living in retirement, and subsisted +by purchasing slaves, and selling them to Portuguese and Spanish +traders. They found in him a meek and venerable old man, of +respectable appearance. He was surrounded by a number of men and +boys, his household slaves, who were all armed with pistols, daggers, +muskets, cutlasses, swords, &c., the manufacture of various European +countries. In the first place, he assured them, that nothing could +give him more pleasure than to welcome them to Badagry, and he very +much wondered that they had not visited him before. If they had a +present to give him, he said, he would thank them; but if they had +not, still he would thank them. A table was then brought out into the +court before the house, on which decanters and glasses, with a +burning liquor obtained from the Portuguese, were placed. In one +corner of the yard was a little hut, not more than two feet in +height, wherein had been placed a fetish figure, to preserve the +chief from any danger or mischief, which their presence might +otherwise have entailed upon him. A portion of the spirit was poured +into one of the glasses, and from it emptied into each of the others, +and then drunk by the attendant that had fetched it from the house. +This is an old custom, introduced no doubt to prevent masters from +being poisoned by the treachery of their slaves. As soon as the +decanters had been emptied of their contents, other ardent spirits +were introduced, but as Richard Lander imagined that fetish water had +been mingled with it, they simply took a tea-spoonful into their +mouths, and privately ejected it on the ground. The old chief +promised to return their visit on the morrow, and lifting up his +hands and eyes to heaven, like a child in the attitude of prayer, he +invoked the Almighty to preserve and bless them; they then saluted +him in the usual manner, and returned well pleased to their own +habitation. + + + +CHAPTER XXX. + +They were now most anxious to proceed on their journey, out the +chief, Adooley, evaded their solicitations to depart, under the most +frivolous and absurd pretences. He asserted that his principal reason +for detaining them against their inclinations, was the apprehension +he entertained for their safety, the road not being considered in a +good state. Under this impression, he despatched a messenger to +Jenna, to ascertain if the affairs of that country warranted him +sending them thither. The old king of Jenna, who, it will be +recollected, behaved so kindly to Captain Clapperton, was dead; his +successor had been appointed, but he had not at that time arrived +from Katunga. That being the case, there would not be any one at +Jenna to receive them. Meantime, the rainy season was fast +approaching, as was sufficiently announced by repeated showers and +occasional tornadoes. They were also the more anxious to leave this +abominable place, as they were informed that a sacrifice of no less +than three hundred human beings, of both sexes and all ages, was +shortly to take place, such as has been described in the second +journey of Clapperton. They often heard the cries of many of these +poor wretches, and the heart sickened with horror at the bare +contemplation of such a scene as awaited them, should they remain +much longer at Badagry. + +Early on the morning of the 25th March, the house of the travellers +was filled with visitors, and from that time to the evening they +resigned themselves to a species of punishment, which cannot be +characterized by any other terms than an earthly purgatory. After +cracking fingers a hundred times, and grinning as often, they were +informed, that the chief's messenger had returned from Jenna, but for +some reason, which Lander could not define, the man was almost +immediately sent back again, and they were told that they could not +quit Badagry until he again made his appearance. It is the custom in +this place, that when a man cannot pay his respects in person to +another, he sends a servant with a sword or cane, in the same manner +as a gentleman delivers his card in England. They this day received a +number of compliments in this fashion, and it is almost superfluous +to say that a cane or a sword was at all times a more welcome and +agreeable visitor than its owner would have been. + +They had scarcely finished their morning repast, when Hooper +introduced himself for his accustomed glass of spirits, to prevent +him, according to his own account, from getting sick. He took the +opportunity of informing them, that it would be absolutely necessary +to visit the _noblemen_, who had declared themselves _on their side_. +As they strove to court popularity and conciliate the vagabonds by +every means in their power, they approved of Hooper's counsel, and +went in the first place, to the house of the late _General_ Poser, +which was at that time under the superintendence of his head man. Him +they found squatting indolently on a mat, and several old people were +holding a conversation with him. As the death of Poser was not +generally known to the people, it being concealed from them, for fear +of exciting a commotion in the town, he having been universally loved +and respected they were not permitted even to mention his name, and +the steward set them the example, by prudently confining his +conversation to the necessity of making him a present proportionate +to his expectations, and the dignity of his situation. Muskets and +other warlike instruments were suspended from the sides of the +apartment, and its ceiling was decorated with fetishes and Arab texts +in profusion. Gin and water were produced, and partaken of with +avidity by all present, more especially by the two mulattoes that had +attended them, which being done, the head man wished the great spirit +to prosper them in all their undertakings, and told them not to +forget his present by any means. They shortly afterwards took their +leave, and quitted the apartment with feelings of considerable +satisfaction, for its confined air was so impure, that a longer stay, +to say the least of it, would have been highly unpleasant. As it was, +they had consumed so much time in Poser's house, that they found it +necessary to alter their intention of visiting the other chiefs, and +therefore resolved to pay their respects to Adooley, whom they had +not seen for two days. Accordingly, they repaired immediately to his +residence, and were welcomed to it with a much better grace, than on +any previous occasion. + +The chief was eating an undrest onion, and seated on an old table, +dangling his legs underneath, with a vacant thoughtlessness of +manner, which their abrupt intrusion somewhat dissipated. He informed +them of his intention to send them on their journey on the day after +to-morrow, when he expected that the people of Jenna would be in a +suitable condition to receive them. He was full of good nature, and +promised to make Richard Lander a present of a horse, which he had +brought with him from Sockatoo on the former expedition, adding, that +he would sell another to John Lander. So far, their visit was +attended with satisfaction, but it was rather destroyed by Adooley +informing them that it was his particular wish to examine the goods, +which they intended to take with them into _the bush,_ as the +enclosed country is called, in order that he might satisfy himself +that there were no objectionable articles amongst them. Having +expressed their thanks to Adooley for his well-timed present, and +agreed to the examination of their baggage, they all partook of a +little spirit and water, which soon made them the best friends in the +universe. During this palaver, the chief's sister and two of his +wives were ogling at the travellers, and giggling with all the +playfulness of the most finished coquette, until the approach of the +chief of the English-town and the remainder of the travellers' party +put a sudden stop to their entertainment, on which they presently +left the apartment. These men came to settle a domestic quarrel, +which was soon decided by the chief, who, after receiving the usual +salutation of dropping on the knees with the face to the earth, +chatted and laughed immoderately; this was considered by the +travellers as a happy omen. In that country, very little ceremony is +observed by the meanest of the people towards their sovereign, they +converse with him with as little reserve, as if he were no better +than themselves, while he pays as much attention to their complaints, +as to those of the principal people of the country. An African king +is therefore of some use, but there are kings in other parts of the +world, of whose use it would be a very difficult matter to find any +traces, and who know as much of the complaints or grievances of their +subjects, as of the nucleus of the earth. Nor was king Adooley +supposed to be entirely destitute of the virtues of hospitality, for +it was observed that the remainder of his onion was divided equally +amongst the chiefs, who had come to visit him, and was received by +them with marks of the highest satisfaction. + +In the afternoon, a herald proclaimed the approach to the habitation +of the venerable chief of Spanish-town, with a long suite of thirty +followers. The old man's dress was very simple, consisting only of a +cap and turban, with a large piece of Manchester cotton flung over +his right shoulder, and held under his left arm. This is infinitely +more graceful and becoming in the natives, than the most showy +European apparel, in any variety of which, indeed, they generally +look highly ridiculous. After they had made the chief and all his +attendants nearly tipsy, the former began to be very talkative and +amusing, continuing to chat without interruption for a considerable +time, not omitting to whisper occasionally to the interpreter, by no +means to forget, after his departure, to remind the travellers of the +present they had promised him, it being considered the height of +rudeness to mention any thing of the kind aloud in his presence. The +rum had operated so cheerily upon his followers in the yard, that fat +and lean, old and young, all commenced dancing, and continued +performing the most laughable antics, till they were no longer able +to stand. It amused the travellers infinitely to observe these +creatures, with their old solemn placid-looking chief at their head, +staggering out at the door way; they were in truth, but too happy to +get rid of them at so cheap a rate. Hooper shortly afterwards came +with a petition from twelve _gentlemen_ of English-town, for the sum +of a hundred and twenty dollars to be divided amongst them, and +having no resource, they were compelled to submit to the demand of +these rapacious scoundrels. + +Late in the evening, they received the threatened visit from Adooley, +who came to examine the contents of the boxes. He was borne in a +hammock by two men, and was dressed in an English linen shirt, a +Spanish cloak or mantle, with a cap, turban and sandals; his +attendants were three half-dressed little boys, who, one by one, +placed themselves at their master's feet, as they were in the regular +habit of doing; one of them carried a long sword, another a pistol, +and a third a kind of knapsack, filled with tobacco. The chief was +presented with brandy, equal in strength to spirits of wine, and he +swallowed a large quantity of it with exquisite pleasure. The boys +were permitted to drink a portion of the liquor every time that it +was poured into a glass for Adooley, but, though it was so very +strong, it produced no grimace, nor the slightest distortion of +countenance in these little fellows. The fondness of the natives, or +rather their passion for spirituous liquors is astonishing, and they +are valued entirely in proportion to the intoxicating effects they +occasion. Adooley smoked nearly all the while he remained in Lander's +house. As each box was opened, however, he would take the pipe slowly +from his mouth, as if perfectly heedless of what was going forward, +and from the couch on which he was reclining, he regarded with +intense curiosity each article, as it was held out to his +observation. Every thing that in his opinion demanded a closer +examination, or more properly speaking, every thing he took a fancy +to, was put into his hands at his own request, but as it would be +grossly impolite to return it after it had been soiled by his +fingers, with the utmost _nonchalance,_ the chief delivered it over +to the care of his recumbent pages, who carefully secured it between +their legs. Adooley's good taste could not of course be questioned, +and it did not much surprise, though it grieved the Landers, to +observe a large portion of almost every article in the boxes speedily +passing through his hands into those of his juvenile minions. Nothing +seemed unworthy of his acceptance, from a piece of fine scarlet cloth +to a child's farthing whistle; indeed he appeared to be particularly +pleased with the latter article, for he no sooner made it sound, than +he put on a horrible grin of delight, and requested a couple of the +instruments, that he might amuse himself with them in his leisure +moments. Although he had received guns, ammunition, and a variety of +goods, to the amount of nearly three hundred ounces of gold, +reckoning each ounce to be worth two pounds sterling, yet he was so +far from being satisfied, that he was continually grumbling forth his +discontent. Gratitude, however, was unknown to him, as well as to his +subjects. The more that was given them, the more pressing were their +importunities for other favours; the very food that he ate, and the +clothes that he wore, were begged in so fawning a tone and manner, as +to create disgust and contempt at the first interview. + +It was nearly midnight, before Adooley rose from his seat to depart, +when he very ceremoniously took his leave, with broad cloth and +cottons, pipes, snuff-boxes, and knives, paper, ink, whistles, &c., +and even some of the books of the travellers, not a line of which he +could comprehend; so avaricious was this king of Badagry. + +They rose early on the morning of the 26th, for the purpose of +arranging some trifling matters and taking their breakfast in +quietness and comfort; but they had scarcely sitten down, when their +half-naked grinning acquaintance entered to pay them the compliments +of the day. Notwithstanding their chagrin, so ludicrous were the +perpetual bowing and scraping of these their friends, in imitation of +Europeans, that they could not forbear laughing in good earnest. +Their rum, which had been kindly supplied them by Lieutenant Matson, +they were happy to find was nearly all consumed, and the number of +their general visitors had diminished in exact proportion to the +decrease of the spirit, so that they were now beginning to feel the +enjoyment of an hour or two's quiet in the course of the day, which +was a luxury they could hardly have anticipated. The chief sent his +son to them, requesting a few needles and some small shot; they could +ill spare the latter, but it would have been impolitic to have +refused his urgent solicitations, whatever might have been their +tendency. + +The horses promised by Adooley were now sent for them to examine. +They appeared strong and in good condition, and if they played them +no wicked pranks in "the bush," no doubt they would be found +eminently serviceable. + +In the evening, Poser's headman, who, it was understood, was one of +the chiefs first captains, returned their visit of the preceding day, +followed by a multitude of friends and retainers. He had been +determined, it was believed, before he left home, to be in an ill +humour with the travellers, and perhaps he had treated himself with +an extra dram upon the occasion. This great bully introduced himself +into their dwelling; his huge round face, inflamed with scorn, anger, +and "potations deep." He drank with more avidity than his countrymen, +but the liquor produced no good impression upon him, serving rather +to increase his dissatisfaction and choler. He asked for every thing +which he saw, and when they had gratified him to the best of their +power, he began to be very abusive and noisy. He said he was +convinced that they had come into the country with no good +intentions, and accused them of deceit and insincerity in their +professions, or, in plainer terms, that they had been guilty of a +direct falsehood, in stating that they had no other motive for +undertaking the journey than to recover the papers of Mr. Park at +Youri. He was assured that they were afraid to tell the true reasons +for leaving their own country. They withstood his invectives with +tolerable composure, and the disgraceful old fellow left them in a +pet, about half an hour after his arrival. + +John Lander, we find, on referring to this part of their journey +says, "It is really a discouraging reflection, that, notwithstanding +the sacrifices we have made of all private feeling and personal +comfort, for the purpose of conciliating the good opinion of the +people here; the constant fatigue and inconvenience to which we have +been subjected; the little arts we have practised; the forced +laughter; the unnatural grin: the never-ending shaking of hands, &c. +&c., besides the dismal noises and unsavoury smells to which our +organs have been exposed, still, after all, some scoundrels are to be +found hardened against us by hatred and prejudice, and so ungrateful +for all our gifts and attentions, as to take a delight in poisoning +the minds of the people against us, by publicly asserting that we are +English spies, and make use of other inventions equally false and +malicious. Pitiable, indeed, must be the lot of that man, who is +obliged to drag on a year of existence in so miserable a place as +this. Nevertheless we are in health and spirits, and perhaps feel a +secret pride in being able to subdue our rising dissatisfaction, and +in overcoming difficulties, which at a first glance seemed to be +insurmountable. By the blessing of Heaven, we shall proceed +prosperously in our undertaking; for in the divine goodness do we +alone repose all our confidence and hopes of success. We may say that +pleasure and enjoyment have accompanied us hither. The clearness of +the sky is pleasant, and its brilliancy, the softness of the moon, +the twinkling brightness of the stars, and the silence of night, the +warbling and the flight of birds, the hum of insects, and the varied +and luxuriant aspect of beautiful nature, are all charming to us; and +what on earth can be more soothing and delightful than the thoughts +of home and kindred, and anticipations of a holier and more glorious +existence; these are true pleasures, of which the barbarians cannot +deprive us." + +So writes John Lander, in the enthusiasm of his imagination; but +unfortunately the reality did not come up to the picture which his +fancy had drawn; for although the softness of the moon, and the +silence of night, and the brightness of the stars, might be all very +pleasant objects, even under an equatorial sun, yet the following +account of some of the disagreeables, when taken in contrast, rather +tends to overbalance the sum of the agreeables. Thus we find, that on +the day subsequent to that on which John Lander had written his +rhapsody on the agreeables of Badagry, the noise and jargon of their +guests pursued them even in their sleep, and their dreams were +disturbed by fancied palavers, which were more unpleasant and +vexatious, if possible, in their effects than real ones. Early on the +morning of the 25th, they were roused from one of these painful +slumbers to listen to the dismal yell of the hyenas, the shrill +crowing of cocks, the hum of night flies and mosquitoes, and the +hoarse croaking of frogs, together with the chirping of myriads of +crickets and other insects, which resounded through the air, as +though it had been pierced with a thousand whistles. The _silence_ of +night, under these circumstances, could not have been very pleasant +to them, and it scarcely amounts to a question, whether the warbling +of the birds could afford any great delight, if the hyenas and the +mosquitoes, and the frogs and the crickets considered themselves +privileged to make up the chorus. + +The sun had scarcely risen, when two Mahommedans arrived at their +house, with an invitation for them to accompany them to the spot +selected for the performance of their religious rites and +observances. This being a novelty, they embraced the proposal with +pleasure, and followed the men to the distance of about a mile from +their house. Here they observed a number of Mahommedans sitting in +detached groups, actively employed in the duties of lustration and +ablution. It was a bare space of ground, edged with trees, and +covered with sand. The Mussulmans were obliged to bring water with +them in calabashes. Seated in a convenient situation, under the +spreading branches of a myrtle tree, the two travellers could +observe, without being seen, all the actions of the Mussulmans. A +number of boys, however, soon intruded themselves upon their privacy; +and, in truth, they were more amused by the artlessness and +playfulness of their manners, than with all the grave and stupid +mummery of the Mahommedan worshippers. Groups of people were +continually arriving at the spot, and these were welcomed by an +occasional flourish of music from a native clarionet, &c. They were +clad in all their finery, their apparel being as gaudy as it was +various. The coup d'oeil presented by no means an uninteresting +spectacle. Loose tobes, with caps and turbans striped and plain, red, +blue, and black, were not unpleasantly contrasted with the original +native costume of figured cotton, thrown loosely over the shoulders, +and immense rush hats. Manchester cottons, of the most glaring +patterns, were conspicuous amongst the crowd; but these were cast in +the shade by scarfs of green silk, ornamented with leaves and flowers +of gold, and aprons covered with silver spangles. Very young children +appeared bending under the weight of clothes and ornaments, whilst +boys of maturer years carried a variety of offensive weapons. The +Turkish scimitar, the French sabre, the Portuguese dagger confined in +a silver case, all gleamed brightly, and heavy cutlasses, with rude +native knives, were likewise exhibited, half-devoured by cankering +rust. Clumsy muskets and fowling-pieces, as well as Arab pistole, +were also handled with delight by the joyful Mussulmans. In number +the religionists were about a hundred and fifty. Not long after the +arrival of the two brothers, they formed themselves into six lines, +and having laid aside many of their superfluous ornaments, and a +portion of their clothing, they put on the most sedate countenance, +and commenced their devotional exercises in a spirit of seriousness +and apparent fervour, worthy of a better place and a more amiable +creed. In the exterior forms of their religion, at least, the +Mussulmans are here complete adepts, as this spectacle was well +calculated to convince the two Europeans, and the little which they +had hitherto seen of them, led them to form a very favourable opinion +of their general temperance and sobriety. The ceremony was no sooner +concluded, than muskets, carbines, and pistols were discharged on all +sides. The clarionet again struck up a note of joy, and was supported +by long Arab drums, strings of bells, and a solitary kettle-drum. The +musicians, like the ancient minstrels of Europe, were encouraged by +trifling presents from the more charitable of the multitude. All +seemed cheerful and happy, and, on leaving the Landers, several out +of compliment, it was supposed, discharged their pieces at their +heels, and were evidently delighted with themselves, with the two +English, and the whole world. + +In the path, the Landers met a fellow approaching the scene of +innocent dissipation, clothed most fantastically in a flannel dress +and riding on the back, on what they were informed was a wooden +horse. He was surrounded by natives of all ages, who were laughing +most extravagantly at the unnatural capering of the thing, and +admiring the ingenuity of the contrivance. The figure itself was +entirely concealed with cloths, which rendered it impossible to +discover by what agency it was moved. Its head was covered with red +cloth, and a pair of sheep's ears answered the purpose for which they +were intended tolerably well. Yet, on the whole, though it was easy +to perceive that a horse was intended to be represented by it, the +figure was executed clumsily enough. As soon as this party had joined +the individuals assembled near the place of worship, a startling +shriek of laughter testified the tumultuous joy of the wondering +multitude. The sun shone out resplendently on the happy groups of +fancifully dressed persons, whose showy, various-coloured garments, +and sooty skin, contrasted with the picturesque and lovely appearance +of the scenery, produced an unspeakably charming effect. The foliage +exhibited every variety and tint of green, from the sombre shade of +the melancholy yew, to the lively verdure of the poplar and young +oak. "For myself," says John Lander, "I was delighted with the +agreeable ramble, and imagined that I could distinguish from the +notes of the songsters of the grove, the swelling strains of the +English skylark and thrush, with the more gentle warbling of the +finch and linnet. It was indeed a brilliant morning, teeming with +life and beauty, and recalled to my memory a thousand affecting +associations of sanguine boyhood, when I was thoughtless and happy. +The barbarians around me were all cheerful and full of joy. I have +heard that like sorrow, joy is contagious, and I believe that it is, +for it inspired me with a similar gentle feeling." + +"The 27th March in this place, is what May-day is in many country +places in England, and it strongly reminded us of it. But here +unfortunately there are no white faces to enliven us, and a want of +the lovely complexion of our beautiful countrywomen, tinged with 'its +celestial red,' is severely felt; and so is the total absence here of +that golden chain of kindness, which links them to the ruder +associates of their festive enjoyments. By and by, doubtless, +familiarity with black faces will reconcile me to them, but at +present I am compelled to own, that I cannot help feeling a +considerable share of aversion towards their jetty complexions, in +common I believe with most strangers that visit this place." + +Owing to the holiday, which is equally prized and enjoyed by +Mahommedan and pagan, their visitors on this day have been almost +exclusively confined to a party of Houssa mallams, who entered their +dwelling in the forenoon, perfumed all over with musk, more for the +purpose of gratifying their vanity by displaying their finery before +them, than of paying the travellers the compliment of the day, which +was avowedly the sole object of their intrusion. One or two of them +were masticating the goora nut, and others had their lips, teeth, and +finger nails stained red. Each of the mallams was attended by a +well-dressed little boy of agreeable countenance, who acted as page +to his master, and was his _protegé_. Neither of the men would eat or +drink with those who they came to visit, yet whilst they were in +their company, they seemed cheerful and good humoured, and were +communicative and highly intelligent. In answer to the questions put +to them, they; were informed that two rivers enter the Quorra, or +great river of Funda, one of which is called the _Coodonie,_ and the +other the _Tshadda,_ (from the lake Tshad); that a schooner might +sail from Bornou to Fundah, on the latter river, without difficulty; +that Funda is only twenty-four hours pull from Benin, and twenty-nine +days' journey from Bornou. At the close of a long and to the +travellers rather an interesting conversation, their visitors +expressed themselves highly gratified with their reception, and left +the hut to repair to their own habitations. + +These men, though slaves to Adooley, are very respectable, and are +never called upon by their master, except when required to go to war, +supporting themselves by trading for slaves, which they sell to +Europeans. They wore decent _nouffie_ tobes, (_qu Nyffee,_) Arab red +caps, and Houssa sandals. The mallams, both in their manners and +conversation, are infinitely superior to the ungentle, and malignant +natives of Badagry. + +March 28th fell on a Sunday, and luckily for the travellers, the +inhabitants of the place considered it as a holiday, and their +singing, dancing, and savage jollity possessed greater charms for +them than an empty rum cask, though backed by two white faces. With a +trifling exception or so, they were in consequence unmolested by +their visitors of the everlasting grin and unwearied tongue during +the day. This happy circumstance afforded them an opportunity, and +ample leisure for spending the Sabbath in a manner most agreeable to +their feelings; by devoting the greater part of it to the impressive +duties of their divine religion, in humbling themselves before the +mercy seat of the great Author of their being, and imploring him to +be their refuge and guardian, to shield them from every danger, and +to render their undertakings hopeful and prosperous. + +As yet no crime of any peculiar atrocity had been committed, to +impress the travellers with an unfavourable opinion of the moral +character of the people amongst whom they were then residing, but on +this evening of the Sabbath, a Fantee was robbed of his effects, and +stabbed by an assassin below the ribs, so that his life was despaired +of. The most unlucky part, however, of this tragical affair to +Richard Lander, was, that the natives, from some cause, which he +could not divine, had imbibed the conceit that he was skilled in +surgery. In vain, he protested that he knew nothing of the anatomy of +the human frame--there were many present, who knew far better than he +did himself, and therefore, _nolens volens,_ he was obliged to visit +the patient. It was certainly the first time that Richard Lander had +been called in to exercise his surgical skill, and it must be +admitted that in one sense, he was well adapted for the character of +a bone-setter, or other offices for which the gentlemen of the lancet +are notorious. This trait in his character consisted in a gravity of +countenance well befitting the individual, who presents himself to +his anxious patient, to pronounce the great question of life and +death, and the greater the ignorance of the individual, the deeper +and more solemn is the countenance, which he assumes. If Richard +Lander had been in the least inclined to a risible disposition, +perhaps no occasion was more likely to call it into action, than when +he saw himself followed by two or three hundred savages, under an +imputation of possessing the power of curing an individual, who had +been stabbed nearly to the heart, when at the same time, he knew as +much of the art of stopping an haemorrhage, as he did of the art of +delivering one of the queens of Badagry of an heir to "the golden +stool." Fortunately, however, for the new debutant in the medical +profession, the victim of the assassin had died a few minutes before +the English doctor arrived, and right glad he was, for had he found +his patient alive, and he had afterwards died, no doubt whatever +rested on his mind, that his death would be attributed to the want of +skill on the part of his medical attendant, who, by way of reward for +his interference, would have run no small risk of being buried in the +same grave as the individual, whose life he had sacrificed to his +ignorance and want of skill. From this dilemma he was fortunately +relieved, but he had scarcely returned to his habitation, than he was +called upon to attend a fetish, or a religious rite, that was to be +performed over the remains of a native, who had been found dead, but +who was in perfect health a few hours before. This kind of coroner's +inquest appeared most strange to the travellers, when it was well +known to them that the king of Badagry, so far from following the +example of other kings, who are so extremely anxious about the life +of their subjects, often amuses himself with chopping off two or +three hundred heads of his subjects, in order that the path to his +apartments may be paved with their skulls; and should there not be +quite a sufficient number to complete the job, the deficiency is made +up with the same indifference, as a schoolboy strikes off the heads +of the poppies in the corn fields. The ceremony observed at this +fetish, had a great resemblance to an Irish wake; and could the +mourners have been able to obtain the requisite supply of spirits, +there is very little doubt that there would not have been a mourner +present, who would not have exhibited himself in the state of the +most beastly intoxication. The lament of the relatives of the +deceased was doleful in the highest degree, and no sounds could be +more dismally mournful than those shrieked forth by them on this +occasion. + +The Sabbath was nearly over, when a summons was received from +Adooley, to repair to his residence, in order finally to settle the +business relative to their journey into the interior, but they +refused to have any disputes with him on the Sabbath, and therefore +promised to wait on him the following morning. Accordingly after +breakfast, they redeemed their pledge, by paying him the promised +visit. Adooley received them with his accustomed politeness and +gracious smile. He prefaced his wish by saying, that he wished to +inform them of his intention, to detain them at Badagry a day or two +longer, the "path" not being considered in a fit state for; +travelling, rather than his reputation should suffer by leading them +into danger, which would undoubtedly be the case, if he had not +adopted his present resolution. Yet, he continued, they might depend +upon his word as a king, that they should be at liberty to depart on +the following Thursday at the latest. Now the Landers well knew that +the country was never in a more peaceable or quiet state than at the +moment he was speaking, and they were consequently mortified beyond +measure, at the perpetual evasions and contradictions of this chief. +They also regretted that the dry season was drawing fast to a close, +and that then they would be obliged to travel in the rainy months. + +Having made this declaration, Adooley requested them to write on +paper in his presence, for a few things, which he wished to procure +from Cape Coast Castle, or from England, as a return for the +protection he had promised them. Amongst other articles enumerated +were _four_ regimental coats, such as are worn by the king of +England, being for his own immediate wear, and forty less splendid +than the king of England's, for his captains; two long brass guns, to +run on swivels; _fifty_ muskets; _twenty_ barrels of gunpowder; four +handsome swords, and forty cutlasses; to which were added, two +puncheons of rum; a carpenter's chest of tools, with oils, paint and +brushes; the king himself boasting that he was a blacksmith, +carpenter, painter, and indeed every trade but a tailor. +Independently of these trifles, as he termed them, he wished to +Obtain half a dozen rockets, and a rocket gun, with a soldier from +Cape Coast capable of undertaking the management of it; and lastly, +he modestly ordered two puncheons of kowries to be sent him, for the +purpose of defraying in part the expences, he had incurred in +repelling the attacks of the men of Porto Novo, Atta, Juncullee; the +tribes inhabiting those places having made war upon him, for allowing +Captain Clapperton's last mission to proceed into the interior +without their consent. They now asked jocosely, whether Adooley would +be satisfied with these various articles, when, having considered for +a few moments, and conversed aloud to a few of his chiefs, who were +in the apartment at the time, he replied that he had forgotten to +mention his want of a large umbrella, _four_ casks of grape shot, and +a barrel of flints, which having also inserted in the list, the +letter was finally folded and sealed. It was then delivered into the +hands of Adooley, who said that he should send it by Accra, one of +his head men, to Cape Coast Castle, and that the man would wait there +till all the articles should be procured for him. If that be the +case, the Landers imagined that Accra would have a very long time to +wait. + +The interpreter of the Landers, old Hooper, having been suspected by +the chief to be in their interest, a young man, named Tookwee, who +understood a little English, was sent for, and commanded to remain +during the whole conference, in order to detect any error that Hooper +might make, and to see that every thing enumerated by the chief, +should be written in the list of articles. + +During this long and serious conversation, the Landers were highly +amused with a singular kind of concert, which was formed by three +little bells, which were fastened to the tails of the same number of +cats by a long string, and made a jingling noise, whenever the +animals thought proper to play off any of their antics. As an +accompaniment to this singular kind of music, they were favoured with +the strains of an organ, which instrument was turned by a little boy, +placed purposely in a corner of the apartment. + +In the afternoon, a young Jenna woman came to visit them, accompanied +by a female friend from Houssa. Her hair was traced with such +extraordinary neatness, that John Lander expressed a wish to examine +it more minutely. The girl had never beheld such a thing as a white +man before, and permission was granted with a great deal of coyness, +mixed up perhaps with a small portion of fear, which was apparent as +she was slowly untying her turban. No sooner, however, was the +curiosity of the travellers gratified, than a demand of two hundred +kowries was insisted on by her companion, that, it was alleged, being +the price paid in the interior by the male sex to scrutinize a lady's +hair. They were obliged to conform to the usual custom, at which the +women expressed themselves highly delighted. The hair, which had +excited the admiration of the travellers, was made up in the shape of +a hussar's helmet, and very ingeniously traced on the top. Irregular +figures were likewise braided on each side of the head, and a band of +worked thread, dyed in indigo, encircled it below the natural hair, +which seemed, by its tightness and closeness, to have been glued fast +to the skin. This young Jenna woman was by far the most interesting, +both in face and form, of any they had seen since their landing; and +her prettiness was rendered more engaging by her retiring modesty and +perfect artlessness of manner, which, whether observed in black or +white, are sure to command the esteem and reverence of the other sex. +Her eyelids were stained with a bluish-black powder, which is the +same kind of substance, it is supposed, as that described in a note +in Mr. Beckford's Vatheck. Her person was excessively clean, and her +apparel flowing, neat, and graceful. Before taking leave, the girl's +unworthy companion informed John Lander, that her _protegée_ was +married, but that as her husband was left behind at Jenna, she would +prevail on her to visit the travellers in the evening after sunset. +Of course they expressed their abhorrence of the proposal, and were +really grieved to reflect, that, with so much meekness, innocence, +modesty, and beauty, their timid friend should be exposed to the +wiles of a crafty and wicked woman. On this occasion, John Lander +says, "We have longed to discover a solitary virtue lingering amongst +the natives of this place, but as yet our search has been +ineffectual." + +As a contrast to the youthful individual just described, an old +withered woman entered their residence in the evening, and began +professing the most unbounded affection for both the travellers. She +had drank so much rum that she could scarcely stand. She first began +to pay her attentions to John Lander, who, being the more sprightly +of the two, she thought was the most likely to accede to her wishes; +she happened, however, to be the owner of a most forbidding +countenance, and four of her front teeth had disappeared from her +upper jaw, which caused a singular and disagreeable indention of the +upper lip. The travellers were disgusted with the appearance and +hateful familiarity of this ancient hag, who had thus paid so ill a +compliment to their vanity, and subsequently they forced her out of +the yard without any ceremony. + +The travellers now ascertained that the king would not allow them to +go to Jenna by the nearest beaten path, on the plea, that, as sacred +fetish land would lie in their way, they would die the moment in +which they trod upon it. + +The pleasant news was now received, that the king of Jenna had +arrived at that town from Katunga. His messenger reached Badagry on +the 30th March, and immediately paid a visit to the Landers, +accompanied by a friend. They regaled him with a glass of rum, +according to their general custom, the first mouthful of which he +squirted from his own into the mouth of his associate, and _vice +versa._ This was the first time they had witnessed this dirty and +disgusting practice. + +Adooley again sent for the travellers, he having recollected some +articles, which were necessary to complete the cargo, which the king +of England was to send him. To their great surprise, however, the +first article that he demanded was nothing less than a gun-boat, with +a hundred men from England, as a kind of body-guard; for his own +private and immediate use, however, he demanded a few common +tobacco-pipes. It was a very easy matter to give a bill for the +gun-boat and the hundred men, neither of which, they well knew, would +be duly honoured; for, before they could come back protested to king +Adooley, the drawers of it knew they would be far beyond his power; +and they had received such specimens of the extreme nobleness and +generosity of his character, that they determined never to throw +themselves in his power again. In regard, however, to the +tobacco-pipes, they dared not part with them on any account, because, +considering the long journey, they had before them, they were +convinced they had nothing to spare; indeed it was their opinion, +that the presents would be all exhausted long before the journey was +completed, and this was in a great measure to be imputed to the +rapacity of Adooley, when he examined their boxes. With the same +facility that they could have written the order for the gun-boat and +the hundred men, they now wrote a paper for forty ounces of gold, +worth there about two pounds an ounce, to be distributed amongst the +chief of the English-town and the rest of their partisans. Adooley +had now summed up the measure of his demands; the travellers were +most agreeably surprised by an assurance from him, that they should +quit Badagry on the morrow, with the newly-arrived Jenna messenger. +They accordingly adjusted all their little matters to the apparent +satisfaction of all parties, nor could they help wishing, for the +sake of their credit, that they might never meet such needy and +importunate friends as pestered them during their residence at +Badagry. + +In regard to king Adooley, we have been furnished with some most +interesting particulars respecting him, and some of his actions +certainly exhibit a nobleness of character seldom to be found in +the savage. His conduct towards the Landers was distinguished by the +greatest rapacity and duplicity, whilst in his intercourse with his +own immediate connexions, his actions cannot be surpassed by any of +the great heroes of antiquity. He evinced in early youth an active +and ingenious disposition, and an extraordinary fondness for +mechanical employments and pursuits. This bias of Adooley soon +attracted the attention and notice of his father, and this revered +parent did all that his slender means afforded of cherishing it, and of +encouraging him to persevere in his industrious habits. Whilst yet +a boy, Adooley was a tolerable carpenter, smith, painter, and gunner. +He soon won the admiration of his father, who displayed greater +partiality and affection for him, than for either of his other +children, and on his death nominated this favorite son his successor, +to the exclusion of his first-born, which is against the laws of the +country, the eldest son being invariably understood as the legitimate +heir. For some time, however, after his decease, no notice was taken +of the dying request of the Lagos chieftain; his eldest son ruled in +his stead, notwithstanding his last injunction, and Adooley for a few +years wisely submitted to his brother without murmuring or complaint. +The young men at length quarrelled, and Adooley calling to +remembrance the words and wishes of his father, rose up against the +chief, whom he denounced an usurper, and vehemently called upon his +friends to join him in disputing his authority, and endeavour to +divest him of his power and consequence. All the slaves of his +deceased parent, amongst whom were a great number of Houssa mallams; +all who bore any personal dislike to the ruling chief, or were +discontented with his form of government; those who preferred +Adooley, and the discontented of all ranks, formed themselves into a +strong body, and resolved to support the pretensions of their +favourite. The brothers agreed to decide the quarrel by the sword, +and having come to a general engagement, the partizans of the younger +were completely routed, and fled with their leader before the +victorious arms of the opposing party. + +Fearing the result of this contest, Adooley, with a spirit of filial +piety, which is not rare amongst savages, and is truly noble, dug out +of the earth, wherein it had been deposited, the skull of his father, +and took it along with him in his flight, in order that it might not +be dishonoured in his absence, for he loved his father with +extraordinary tenderness, and cherished his memory as dearly as his +own life. The headless body of the venerable chief, like those of his +ancestors, had been sent to Benin, in order that its bones might +adorn the sacred temple at that place, agreeably to an ancient and +respected custom, which has ever been religiously conformed to, and +tenaciously held by the Lagos people. But Adooley displayed at the +same time another beautiful trait of piety and filial tenderness. At +the period of his defeat, he had an aged and infirm mother living, +and her he determined to take with him, let the consequences be what +they might. With his accustomed foresight, he had previously made a +kind of cage or box, in case there should be a necessity for removing +her. His father's skull having been disinterred and secured, he +implored his mother to take immediate advantage of this cage, as the +only means of escaping with life. She willingly acceded to her son's +request, and was borne off on the shoulders of four slaves, to a +village not far distant from Lagos, accompanied by Adooley and his +fugitive train, where they imagined themselves secure from further +molestation. In this opinion, however, they were deceived, for the +more fortunate chief, suspicious of his brother's intentions, and +dreading his influence, would not suffer him to remain long in peace, +but drove him out soon after, and hunted him from place to place like +a wild beast. In this manner, retreating from his brother, he at last +reached the flourishing town of Badagry, and being quite wearied with +his exertions and fatigues, and disheartened by his misfortunes, he +set down his beloved mother on the grass, and began to weep by her +side. The principal people of the town were well acquainted with his +circumstances, and admiring the nobleness of his sentiments, they not +only pitied him, but resolved to protect and befriend him to the +last. + +For this purpose they presently invited him to attend a council, +which they had hastily formed. When in the midst of them, perceiving +tears falling fast down his cheeks, they asked him why he wept so? +"Foolish boy," said they, "wipe away those tears, for they are +unworthy of you, and show yourself a man and a prince. From this +moment we adopt you our chief, you shall lead us on to war, and we +will fight against your brother, and either prevail over him or +perish. Here your mother may dwell in safety, and here shall your +father's skull be reverenced as it ought to be. Come then, lay aside +your fears, and lead us on against your enemies." + +These enemies were in the bush, and hovering near Badagry, when +Adooley and his generous friends sallied out against them. The +fighting or rather skirmishing lasted many days, and many people, it +is said, were slain on both sides. But the advantage was decidedly in +favour of the Badagrians, whose superior knowledge of the district +and secret paths of the wood, was of considerable service to them, +enabling them to lie in ambush, and attack their enemies by surprise. +The Lagos people at length gave up the unequal contest in despair, +and returned to their own country. Adooley was thus left in quiet +possession of an important and influential town, which declared +itself independent of Lagos for ever. Since then various unsuccessful +attempts have been made to compel the Badagrians to return to their +allegiance. The latter, however, have bravely defended their rights, +and in consequence their independency has been acknowledged by the +neighbouring tribes. + +In the year 1829, the warlike chief of Lagos died, and Adooley +considering it to be a favourable opportunity for his re-assertion of +his claims to the vacant "stool," as it is called, determined to do +so, and assembled his faithful Badagrians for the purpose of making +an attack on his native town. He imagined that as his brother was +dead, he should experience little opposition from his countrymen; but +he soon discovered that he had formed an erroneous opinion, for +almost at his very outset, he met with a stout resistance. His +brother had left an infant son, and him the people declared to be his +legitimate heir, and unanimously resolved to support him. + +The sanguine invaders were repulsed, and entirely defeated, +notwithstanding their tried bravery and utter contempt of danger; and +were forced to return home in confusion without having accomplished +any thing. In this unfortunate expedition Bombanee and all the +principal warriors were slain. A similar attempt has been made on +Lagos more than once, and with a similar result. On the arrival of +the Landers at Badagry, Adooley was but just recovering from the +effects of these various mortifications and other disasters; and +singular enough, he had the artfulness, as has been previously +noticed, of laying the whole blame of them to his having permitted +the last African mission to pass through his territories, contrary to +the wishes of his neighbours, and those, who were interested in the +matter. + +Justice is not unfrequently administered at Badagry by means of a +large wooden cap, having three corners, which is placed on the head +of the culprit at the period of his examination. This fantastic piece +of mechanism, no doubt by the structure of internal springs, may be +made to move and shake without any visible agent, on the same +principle as the enchanted Turk, or any other figure in our puppet +shows. It is believed that the native priests are alone in the +secret. When the cap is observed to shake whilst on the head of a +suspected person, he is condemned without any further evidence being +required; but should it remain without any perceptible motion, his +innocence is apparent and he is forthwith acquitted. The frame of +this wonderful cap makes a great fuss in the town, and as many +wonderful stories are told of it here, as were related in England, a +century or two ago, of the famous brazen head of Roger Bacon. + +A respectable man, the chief of French-town, was tried by the ordeal +of the cap a short time since, for having, it was alleged, accepted a +bribe of the Lagos chieftain to destroy Adooley by poison. The fatal +cap was no sooner put upon his head than it was observed to move +slightly and then to become more violently agitated. The criminal +felt its motion, and was terrified to such a degree that he fell down +in a swoon. On awakening, he confessed his guilt, and implored +forgiveness, which was granted him by Adooley, because, it was said, +of his sorrow and contrition, but really, no doubt, of his birth and +connexions. + +During the stay of the Landers at Badagry, the thermometer of +Fahrenheit ranged between 86° and 94° in their hut, but being oftener +stationary nearer the latter, than the former. + + + +CHAPTER XXXI. + +It was on Tuesday, the 31st March, that the Landers bade adieu to the +chief of Badagry, and during the whole of that day they were employed +packing up their things preparatory to their departure. They repaired +to the banks of the river at sunset, expecting to find a canoe, which +Adooley had promised should be sent there for their use; but having +waited above two hours, and finding it had not arrived, they placed +their goods in two smaller canoes, which were lying on the beach. +These soon proved to be leaky, and as no other resource was at hand, +they were fain to wait as patiently as they could for the canoe +promised them. Every thing betrayed the lukewarmness and indifference +of the chief, who had received so much from them, and who expected so +much more, but they had answered his purpose, and therefore he took +no further notice of them. In two more hours, Hooper made his +appearance in Adooley's war canoe, which he had prevailed on him to +lend them. This was placed directly between the two others, and +their contents speedily transferred into it. It was between ten and +eleven o'clock at night that they were fairly launched out into the +body of the river. The canoe was above forty feet in length; it was +propelled through the water by poles instead of paddles, and moved +slowly and silently along. It was a clear and lovely night; the moon +shone gloriously as a silver shield, and reflecting the starry +firmament on the unruffled surface of the water, the real concave of +heaven with its reflection seemed to form a perfect world. The +scenery on the borders of the river appeared wild and striking, +though not magnificent. In the delicious moonshine it was far from +uninteresting: the banks were low and partially covered with stunted +trees, but a slave factory and, a fetish hut were the only buildings +which were observed on them. They could not help admiring at some +distance ahead of their canoe, when the windings of the river would +permit, a noble and solitary palm tree with its lofty branches +bending over the water's edge; to them it was not unlike a majestical +plume of feathers nodding over the head of a beautiful lady. + +Proceeding about ten miles in a westerly direction, they suddenly +turned up a branch joining the river from the northward, passing on +the left the village of Bawie, at which Captain Clapperton landed. +They saw several small islands covered with rank grass, interspersed +in different parts of the river. They were inhabited by myriads of +frogs, whose noise was more hoarse and stunning than ever proceeded +from any rookery in Christendom. As they went up the river the canoe +men spoke to their priests, who were invisible to them, in a most +sepulchral tone of voice, and were answered in the same unearthly and +doleful manner. These sounds formed their nocturnal serenade. +Notwithstanding the novelty of their situation and the interest they +took in the objects, which surrounded them, they were so overcome +with fatigue, that they wrapped a flannel around them, and fell fast +asleep. + +The hard and uncomfortable couch, on which they had reposed the +preceding night, made their bodies quite sore, and occasioned them to +awake at a very early hour in the morning. At six o'clock A.M. they +found themselves still upon the river, and their canoe gliding +imperceptibly along. From half a mile in width, and in many places +much more, the river had narrowed to about twenty paces; marine +plants nearly covered its surface, and marsh miasmata, loaded with +other vapours of the most noxious quality, ascended from its borders +like a thick cloud. Its smell was peculiarly offensive. In about an +hour afterwards, they arrived at the extremity of the river, into +which flowed a stream of clear water. Here the canoe was dragged over +a morass into a deep but narrow rivulet, so narrow indeed that it was +barely possible for the canoe to float, without being entangled in +the branches of a number of trees, which were shooting up out of the +water. Shortly after, they found it to widen a little; the marine +plants and shrubs disappeared altogether, and the boughs of beautiful +trees, which hung over the banks, overshadowed them in their stead, +forming an arch-like canopy, impervious to the rays of the sun. The +river and the lesser stream abound with alligators and hippopotami, +the wild ducks and a variety of other aquatic birds resorting to them +in considerable numbers. In regard to the alligator, a singular fraud +is committed by the natives of the coast, who collect the alligators' +eggs in great numbers, and being in their size and make exactly +resembling the eggs of the domestic fowl, they intermix them, and +sell them at the markets as the genuine eggs of the fowls; thus many +an epicure in that part of the world, who luxuriates over his egg at +breakfast, fancying that it has been laid by some good wholesome hen, +finds, to his mortification, that he has been masticating the egg of +so obnoxious an animal as the alligator. + +The trees and branches of the shrubs were inhabited by a colony of +monkeys and parrots, making the most abominable chattering and noise, +especially the former, who seemed to consider the travellers as +direct intruders upon their legitimate domain, and who were to be +deterred from any further progress by their menaces and hostile +deportment. After passing rather an unpleasant, and in many instances +an insalubrious night, the travellers landed, about half-past eight +in the morning, in the sight of a great multitude, that had assembled +to gaze at them. + +Passing through a place, where a large fair or market is held, and +where many thousands of people had congregated for the purpose of +trade, they entered an extensive and romantic town, called Wow, which +is situated in a valley. The majority of the inhabitants had never +before had an opportunity of seeing white men, so that their +curiosity, as may be supposed, was excessive. Two of the principal +persons came out to meet them, preceded by men bearing large silk +umbrellas, and another playing a horn, which produced such terrible +sounds, that they were glad to take refuge, as soon as they could, in +the chief's house. The apartment, into which they were introduced was +furnished with a roof precisely like that of a common English barn +inverted. In the middle of it, which reached to within a few inches +of the floor, a large square hole had been made to admit air and +water to a shrub that was growing directly under it. The most +remarkable, if not the only ornament in the room, were a number of +human jaw bones, hung upon the side of the wall, like a string of +onions. After a form and ceremonious introduction, they were +liberally regaled with water from a calabash, which is a compliment +the natives pay all strangers, and then they were shown into a very +small apartment. Here Richard Lander endeavoured to procure a little +sleep having remained awake during the whole of the preceding night; +but they were so annoyed by perpetual interruptions and intrusions, +the firing of muskets, the garrulity of women, the unceasing squall +of children, the drunken petition of men and boys, and a laugh, +impossible to describe, but approximating more to the nature of a +horse-laugh than any other, that it was found impossible to sleep for +ten minutes together. + +The market of this place is supplied abundantly with Indian corn, +palm oil, &c., together with _trona,_ and other articles brought +hither from the borders of the Great Desert, through the medium of +the wandering Arabs. According to the regulations of the fetish, +neither a white man nor a horse is permitted to sleep at Wow during +the night season: as to the regulations respecting the horses, they +knew not what had become of them; they were, according to the orders +of Adooley, to have preceded them to this place, but they had not +then arrived. With respect to themselves, they found it necessary, in +conformity to the orders of the fetish, to walk to a neighbouring +village, and there to spend the night. Their course to Wow, through +this creek, was north-by-east; and Badagry, by the route they came, +was about thirty miles distant. + +A violent thunder-storm, which on the coast is called a tornado, +visited them this afternoon, and confined them to the "worst hut's +worse room" till it had subsided, and the weather become finer. At +three p.m. they sallied forth, and were presently saluted by +hootings, groanings, and hallooings from a multitude of people of all +ages, from a child to its grandmother, and they followed closely at +their heels, as they went along, filling the air with their laughter +and raillery. A merry-andrew at a country town in England, during the +Whitsuntide holidays, never excited so great a stir as did the +departure of the travellers from the town of Wow. But it is "a fool's +day," and, no doubt, some allowance ought to be made for that. +They had not proceeded more than a dozen paces from the outskirts of +the town, when they were visited by a pelting shower, which wetted +them to the skin in a moment. A gutter or hollow, misnamed a pathway, +was soon overflowed, and they had to wade in it up to their knees in +water, and through a most melancholy-looking forest, before they +entered a village. It was called _Sagba,_ and was about eight miles +from Wow. They were dripping wet on their arrival, and the weather +still continuing unpleasant, it was some time before any one made his +appearance to invite them into a hut. At length the chief came out to +welcome them to his village, and immediately introduced them into a +long, narrow apartment, wherein they were to take up their quarters +for the night. It was built of clay, and furnished with two +apertures, to admit light and air into the room. One end was occupied +by a number of noisy goats, whilst the travellers took possession of +the other. Pascoe and his wife lay on mats at their feet, and a +native Toby Philpot, with his ruddy cheek and jug of ale, belonging +to the chief, separated them from the goats. The remainder of the +suite of the travellers had nowhere whatever to sleep. The walls of +their apartment were ornamented with strings of dry, rattling, human +bones, written charms, or fetishes, sheep skins, and bows and arrows. +They did not repose nearly so comfortably as could have been desired, +owing to the swarms of mosquitoes and black ants, which treated them +very despitefully till the morning. + +Between six and seven on the morning of the 2nd April, they continued +their route through woods and large open patches of ground, and at +about eleven in the forenoon, they arrived at the borders of a deep +glen, more wild, romantic, and picturesque than can be conceived. It +was enclosed and overhung on all sides by trees of amazing height and +dimensions, which hid it in deep shadow. Fancy might picture a spot +so silent and solemn as this, as the abode of genii and fairies, +every thing conducing to render it grand, melancholy, and venerable, +and the glen wanted only a dilapidated castle, a rock with a cave in +it, or something of the kind, to render it the most interesting place +in the universe. There was, however, one sight more beautiful than +all the rest, and that was the incredible number of butterflies +fluttering about like a swarm of bees, and they had no doubt chosen +this glen as a place of refuge against the fury of the elements. +They were variegated by the most brilliant tints and colourings +imaginable: the wings of some of them were of a shining green, edged +and sprinkled with gold; others were of a sky-blue and silver, others +of purple and gold a lightfully blending into each other, and the +wings of some were like dark silk velvet, trimmed and braided with +lace. + +The appearance of the travelling party was romantic in the extreme, +as they winded down the paths of the glen; with their grotesque +clothing and arms, bundles, and fierce black countenances, they might +have been mistaken for a strange band of ruffians of the most fearful +character. Besides their own immediate party, they had hired twenty +men of Adooley, to carry the luggage, as there are not any beasts of +burthen in the country, the natives carrying all their burthens upon +their heads, and some of them of greater weight than are seen carried +by the Irishwomen from the London markets. Being all assembled at the +bottom of the glen, they found that a long and dangerous bog or swamp +filled with putrid water, and the decayed remains of vegetable +substances intersected their path, and must necessarily be crossed. +Boughs of trees had been thrown into the swamp by some good-natured +people to assist travellers in the attempt, so that their men, +furnishing themselves with long poles which they used as walking +sticks, with much difficulty and exertion, succeeded in getting over, +and fewer accidents occurred to them, than could have been supposed +possible, from the nature of the swamp. John Lander was taken on the +back of a large and powerful man of amazing strength. His brawny +shoulders supported him, without any apparent fatigue on his part, +and he carried him through bog and water, and even branches of tress, +no bigger than a man's leg, rendered slippery with mud, in safety to +the opposite side. Although he walked as fast and with as much ease +as his companions, he did not set him down for twenty minutes; the +swamp being, as nearly as they could guess, a full quarter of a mile +in length. They then walked to a small village called Basha, whence, +without stopping, they continued their journey, and about four in the +afternoon, passed through another village somewhat larger than the +former, which is called Soato. Here they found themselves so much +exhausted with over fatigue and want of food, that they were +compelled to sit down and rest awhile. The people, however, were a +very uncourteous and clownish race, and teazed them so much with +their rudeness and begging propensities, that they were glad to +prosecute their journey to save themselves from any further +importunities. + +Having passed two other swamps, in the same manner as they had done +before, they were completely tired, and could go no further, for they +had been walking during the whole of the day in an intricate +miserable path, sometimes exposed to the sun, and sometimes threading +their way through a tangled wood. Some of the people were sent to the +next town, to fetch the horses promised by Adooley, during the +absence of whom, the two Landers reposed themselves under a grove of +trees, which was in the neighbourhood of a body of stagnant water, in +which women were bathing, who cast long side glances at the two white +men, who were observing all their motions. It was a low, marshy, and +unwholesome spot; and although a village was not many miles ahead, +yet they were unable to walk to it. Under these circumstances, they +had no other alternative than to rest there for the night, and they +had made fires of dried wood and fallen leaves, and had prepared to +repose for the night under a canopy of trees, and were in fact +actually stretched at full length on the turf for that purpose, when +they were agreeably surprised by the arrival of four of their men +from the village with hammocks, for although sleeping in the open +air, with Heaven for their canopy, in a dark wood, may be all very +romantic and pretty in description, yet in reality nothing could be +more disagreeable, for the crawling of ants, black worms, &c., over +their faces was sufficient to dispel every delightful fancy, which +might have been engendered in the brain. These hammocks were highly +acceptable, and they were lifted into them with very grateful +feelings. It was also exceedingly pleasant, after a long day's +journey on foot, to be carried along so easily, and to see the +parrots and other birds, with a number of grinning, chattering +monkeys, capering from the lofty branches of the trees, and making +the woods resound with their hideous screams. + +After a charming journey of eight or ten miles, they entered the +large and populous town of Bidjie, where the Landers first crossed +Clapperton's route, and where Captain Pearse and Dr. Morrison fell +sick on the last expedition. About a quarter of a mile from the town +they were met by a fellow with a cow's horn, who, chiming in with a +trumpeter, who had accompanied them from Wow, produced a harmony +surpassing all that they had as yet heard. Two men followed the +Bidjie musician with umbrellas of variegated silk, and, thus honoured +and escorted, they were set down, amidst a crowd of people, in the +centre of the town. As usual, the natives testified the wild delight +they felt at the visit of the white men, by clapping of hands and +loud shouts of laughter. In a short time, the noise of three or four +drums was heard, which was an announcement that the chief was +prepared to receive them, on which the multitude quitted them +simultaneously, and rushed to the spot where he was sitting, and to +which, they were also desired to proceed. The chief shook hands with +them in great good humour; and they remarked with pleasure, or they +fancied they did, that not only his laugh, but that of the people, +was a more social and civilized kind of sound, than what of late they +had been accustomed to hear. Nevertheless, when John Lander shook +hands with the chief's son, which act was not very diverting in +itself, the bystanders set up so general a roar of laughter, that the +town rang with the noise; and when Lander ventured further to place +his hand on his head, they were yet more amazingly pleased, and +actually "shrieked like mandrakes torn out of the earth." + +As soon as the ceremony of introduction was over, and the admiration +of the people was confined within rational bounds, they wished the +chief a pleasant night's rest, and were conducted into a comfortable +airy hut, which had a verandah in front. The chief shortly afterwards +sent them a goat for supper. + +They were now in momentary expectation of hearing some account of +their horses from Badagry, and indeed they waited the whole of the +day at Bidjie for that purpose, and in order that the men with the +luggage might have time to overtake them, for they had been hindered +by the swamps and quagmires, which they themselves found so much +difficulty in crossing. Just about sun-set, however, two fellows +arrived from Badagry with the mortifying intelligence, that their +horses would not remain on the water in canoes, but having upset one +of them, and kicked out the bottom of another, had swam ashore and +been led back to Badagry. They were fully convinced that this story +was made up for the occasion, and thus by the bad faith of Adooley +they were deprived of their horses. They had put themselves in a +fever by walking a journey of two days in one, and were likely to +walk the remainder of the way to Jenna in the glare and heat of the +sun, for they had no umbrellas to screen themselves from his rays. +Richard Lander paid eighty dollars for one of the horses, but +Adooley forgot to return the coin, and likewise kept for his own use +a couple of saddles which were purchased at Accra. Late in the +evening the expected carriers arrived with the luggage, some of which +had been wetted and damaged in the marshes. They were now informed +that horses would be sent them on the following day from Jenna. +During the greater part of the afternoon, Richard Lander amused +himself in teaching the simple hearted chief to play on a child's +penny Jews-harp, many of which they had brought with them as +presents; but his proficiency, owing to a wonderfully capacious +mouth, and teeth of extraordinary size, was not near so flattering as +could have been wished. His people, however, who had assembled in +extraordinary numbers, were of a different opinion, and when they +heard their chief draw the first sound from the little instrument, +"shouts of applause ran rattling to the skies." + +A traveller in England, who enjoys the goodness of the roads, does +not often murmur at the demands which are made upon his purse by the +turnpike-keepers, but in Africa the frequency of the turnpikes on the +road from Badagry to Bidjie, was a matter of some surprise to the +Landers. Human beings carrying burthens are the only persons who pay +the turnpikes, for as to a horse or a carriage passing through them, +it would be a scene of the greatest wonder. The Landers, however, +enjoyed the same privilege as the royal family of England, for being +under the protection of the government, they as well as all their +suite and baggage passed toll free. + +On Sunday, April 4th, they arose at sunrise to make the necessary +arrangements for leaving Bidjie, which was no easy task, and shortly +after they sent to signify their intention to the chief. He expressed +a desire to see them as soon as they could conveniently come, +accordingly after breakfast, they repaired to his habitation, which +was contiguous to their own. After being conducted through a number +of yards and huts, inhabited only by goats and sheep, which were +tethered to posts, and a number of tame pigeons, they perceived the +object of their visit squatting on a leopard's skin, under a decent +looking verandah. He was surrounded by his drummers, and other +distinguished persons, who made room for the travellers as they drew +near. But the chief arose as soon as he saw them, and beckoning them +to follow him, they were ushered through a labyrinth of low huts, and +still lower doors, till at last they entered the innermost apartment +of the whole suite, and here they were requested to sit down and +drink rum. The doors they had seen were covered with figures of men, +which exactly resembled certain rude attempts at portraying the human +body, which may still be observed in several old chapels and churches +in the west of England. The chief informed them that they were at +liberty to quit Bidjie, as soon as the heat of the sun should have +somewhat abated, but previously to their departure he promised to +return their visit. On leaving the place he followed them, though +without their knowledge; but finding that they walked faster than he +did, and that he could not keep pace with them, being a very bulky +man, he hastily despatched a messenger to inform them that kings in +Africa, whatever they may do elsewhere, always walk with a slow and +measured step, and that the strides of the travellers being long and +vulgar, he would thank them to lessen their speed, and stop awhile to +enable him to come up with them, which was of course agreed to by the +travellers with great good will. A few minutes afterwards he reached +their house, dressed in a tobe of green silk damask, very rich and +showy, and a skull cap made of purple and crimson velvet. With the +exception of strings of white beads, which encircled his arms, he +used no personal ornaments. He remained chattering with them for a +long time. + +Many of the women of Bidjie have the flesh on their foreheads risen +in the shape of marbles, and their cheeks are similarly cut up +deformed. The lobes of their ears are likewise pierced, and the holes +made surprisingly large, for the insertion of pieces of and ivory +into them, which is a prevailing fashion with all ranks. + +The church service was read this morning agreeably to their general +custom. The natives, of whose society they were never able to rid +themselves, seemed to attach great awe and reverence to their form of +worship, for they had made them understand what if they were going +about, which induced them to pay a high degree of silent attention to +the ceremony, and set at rest for the time, that peculiar continuous +laugh by which they are distinguished from their neighbours. In the +afternoon, or as the natives express it, when the sun had lost its +strength, they departed from the town of Bidjie, accompanied by its +good natured, happy governor, and in a very few minutes afterwards +reached the banks of a rivulet called Yow. Butterflies were here more +numerous than could be imagined, millions of them fluttered around +them, and literally hid from their sight every thing but their own +variegated and beautiful wings. + +Here on the banks of the Yow they took a last farewell of the +affectionate old chief, who implored the "Great God," to bless them, +and as the canoes in which they had embarked moved from the spot, a +loud long laugh, with clapping of hands from the lower classes, +evinced the satisfaction they felt at having seen the white men, and +their hearty wishes for their welfare. + +The Yow is an extremely narrow rivulet, not more than a few feet in +breadth, and flows in a serpentine direction through a flat country, +covered with rushes, and tall, rank grass. Crocodiles are said to +resort here in great numbers, indeed the low bark or growl of these +rapacious animals was heard distinctly, and in some instances quite +close to them; after they had been pushed along against the stream by +poles for five or six miles, between four and five o'clock in the +afternoon they landed at a narrow creek, which ran a little way into +a thick and gloomy forest. They had not proceeded more than two +hundred yards on the pathway, when they were met by a messenger from +Jenna, who informed them that the owners of all the horses in the +town, had ridden out to welcome their chief, and escort him to his +residence, so that they should be obliged to walk the remainder of +the way. A few minutes, however, only had elapsed before they +descried a horse approaching them in the path, this was a goodly +sight to them, who were already becoming wearied and sore with the +exertions they had made during the day, for they did not reflect a +moment that the animal might not after all be for their use. +However, they soon met, and the rider immediately declared that he +had left Jenna purposely on their account. The head of the horse was +loaded with charms and fetishes, enveloped in pieces of red and blue +cloth. His saddle was of Houssa manufacture, and uncommonly neat; in +the interior such an article is only used by the principal people, +and his bridle also was of curious workmanship. The horseman had an +extravagant idea of his own consequence, and seemed to be a +prodigious boaster. He wore abundance of clothing, most of which was +superfluous, but it made him excessively vain. He informed the +travellers that he had been despatched by the king of Jenna, to meet +them in the path, and to escort them to the capital; but +understanding that Adooley had supplied them with horses, he did not +conceive it necessary to send others. The messenger, however, +dismounted and offered them his horse, and the Landers agreed that +they should ride him in turns. They therefore immediately proceeded, +and traversed a rich and various country, abounding plentifully with +wood and water. A fine red sand covered the pathway, which they +found to be in much better condition than any they had before seen. +Sometimes it winded through an open, level tract of fine grazing +land, and then it again diverged through forests so thick and deep, +that the light of the moon was unable to penetrate the gloom, and +they were frequently left in comparatively midnight darkness. It is +scarcely possible to give an adequate description of the +magnificence, solemnity, and desolate repose of the awful solitudes +through which they passed on this evening. They were, however, at +times enlightened by the appearance of glow worms, which were so +luminous that they could almost see to read by their golden +splendour, and sometimes by the moonbeams, which trembled upon the +leaves and branches of the trees. A fragrance also was exhaled from +the forest, more odiferous than the perfume of violets or primroses, +and they might almost fancy, when threading their way through +scenery, which cannot be surpassed for beauty in any part of the +world, that they were approaching those eternal shades, where, in +ancient time, the souls of good men were supposed to wander. The +woods rang with the song of the nightbirds, and the hum of the +insects, which continued to salute them with little intermission +till about ten o'clock at night, when they entered Laatoo, a large +and pleasant town. Here they were informed that no house would be +offered them, the fetish priest having declared that the moment a +white man should enter the dwellings of the inhabitants, they would +be seized by their enemies and enslaved. They arrived thirsty and +exhausted, but for a long time could not procure even a drop of +water. Their tent had been left on the road for want of carriers, +and they had made up their minds to rest under a tree, when about +two hours afterwards it was fortunately brought into the town. +They fixed it immediately, and having succeeded in procuring +some wood from the inhospitable inhabitants, they kindled a fire +in front of it, and whilst their attendants laid themselves in groups +outside, the Landers attempted to sleep within their tent, but it +was in vain, so tormented were they with the mosquitoes and the +ants. + +Before sunrise, on the morning of the 5th of April, they were all on +the alert, and struck their tent at a very early hour, they then sent +the carriers onwards with the luggage and hastily left the town, +without bidding adieu either to the chief or any of his people, on +account of their inhospitality, and in an hour's time reached the +extensive and important town of Larro. On dismounting, they were +first led to a large cleanly swept square, wherein was preserved the +fetish of the place, which is the model of a canoe, having three +wooden figures with paddles in it. After waiting in the shade for an +hour, surrounded by an immense multitude of people of all ages, the +chief's approach was announced by a general rush from their quarters, +to the other end of the square, where he was walking. They went +towards him in order to pay him the accustomed salutation of shaking +hands, &c., but one of his followers fancying that John Lander kept +his master's hand clasped in his, longer than the occasion warranted, +looked fiercely in his face, and snatched away his hand eagerly and +roughly, without, however, uttering a word. "I could have pulled the +fellow's ears with the greatest goodwill, in the world," says John +Lander, "had not the fear of secret revenge deterred me. As it was, I +smothered my rising choler, and with my brother quietly followed the +chief, to his principal hut, under whose verandah we were served with +goora nuts in a huge pewter platter." + +Presently the chief squatted himself down on a handsome rush mat, of +native manufacture, and they were desired to sit by him, on an +elegant Turkey carpet, which had been laid there for the purpose. He +was rather fancifully dressed; and wore two tobes, the one nearest +the skin being of black silk velvet, and the other of crimson velvet, +lined with sarsenet; his boots were of yellow leather, neatly worked, +and his wrists were loaded with bracelets of silver and copper. The +countenance of the chief betrayed much seriousness and solidity, and +the diverting laugh of his countrymen was suspended by a sober +cheerfulness. Many of his wives sat behind him in rows, some of whom +were of a bright copper colour, indeed a great number of the +inhabitants of Larro have fairer complexions than mulattoes. The yard +of the hut was crammed full of curious and inquisitive people, who +stood with open mouths during the audience. The chief wished to +imprint strongly on their minds his own dignity and power; he said he +was greater than the governor of Jenna, inasmuch as the latter was a +slave to the king of Katunga, but himself was a free man. He would +give them permission to depart to-morrow, he continued, and in the +mean time would supply them with provisions. The chief was as good as +his word, for shortly after they had quitted the hut they received a +goat and some game, and he returned their visit in the cool of the +evening. It appeared that it was not his general practice to drink +spirituous liquors in presence of his people, as it may be against +the law to do so, for having carefully excluded all prying eyes from +their dwelling, and ordered a mat to be hung over the door-way, he +even then turned his face to the wall, whenever he attempted to +swallow the brandy that was offered to him. He remained with them +rather better than an hour. On the presentation of the chief to them, +a religious ceremony was performed, which was not observed in any +other part of the country. A chapter from the Koran was repeated to +him by a mahommedan priest, to which both he and his people seemed to +pay great attention. + +Public schools are established in the town of Larro, for the avowed +purpose of teaching the rising generation the rudiments of the +mahommedan religion. + +A singular custom prevails in the town, of compelling children at the +breast to swallow a quantity of cold water from a calabash. An infant +was nearly choked on this morning by the injection of more than a +pint of water down its throat. Whether the mothers follow this custom +for the purpose of curing the children of any imaginary complaints, +or, as is more probable, in the hope of rendering them less eager for +their natural food, was not exactly to be ascertained. + +The inhabitants possess horses, asses, and mules, though not in any +considerable numbers, they have, however, great abundance of sheep +and goats, which are bred in the town; and their yards and huts are +the common place of resort for those animals, indeed they may be said +to grow up and live with the children of their owners. The Landers +amused themselves during the greater part of the day, in looking at +the gambols of some very handsome goats, which had strayed into their +abode, but the sheep were not near so tame or frolicsome, repelling +all the advances towards a more familiar acquaintance, by timidity +and ill nature. Shrimps and fish, which are caught in the streams in +the vicinity of the town, are daily exposed for sale, and the +inhabitants appear to be in possession of a greater share of the +necessaries and comforts of life, than their neighbours of the sea +coast. + +They this day observed the country to be sensibly rising, and +agriculture appeared to be conducted on a regular system, which was +an evident proof of the active and industrious habits of the people. + +The gloomy fastnesses and wildnesses of nature, such as they passed +on the first day or two of their journey from Badagry, were less +common as they advanced, and open glades with plantations of bananas, +fields of yams and Indian corn, all neatly fenced, met their view +from the path of yesterday as well as on the present day. The +inhabitants of Larro also exhibit greater cleanliness of person and +tidiness of apparel than the tribes nearer the sea-shore. Those pests +also, the unfortunate beggars, entirely disappeared, for the +inhabitants of Larro appeared to possess too much pride to beg. + +It was at Larro that the two brothers began to feel the relaxing +influence of the climate, but still their hearts were good, and they +hoped, by the blessing of Heaven, that their progress through the +country might not be impeded by sickness. + +On Tuesday, April 6th, the sun had scarcely risen above the horizon, +and the mists of the morning yet hung upon the hills, than they +quitted the town of Larro, and pursued their journey on horseback. +Three horsemen from Jenna followed them on the path, and they were +enlivened by the wild jingling of their animals' bells, till they got +within a mile of that town, where they alighted at a kind of +turnpike, and fired a salute of two muskets. Here they were met by a +number of fellows with horns, who blew on them with the accustomed +energy of the natives; these men preceded them over a bridge, which +was thrown across a moat that surrounds Jenna into the centre of the +town, where they again alighted, and waited the chief's pleasure in +an open shed. They had not been seated many seconds before an immense +crowd of people pressed in upon them on every side, subjecting them +to the accustomed inconvenience of want of air, strong unwholesome +smells, and a confused hubbub, that defies description. Never were +the people more eager to behold a white man; the little ones formed +themselves into a ring close to the shed, then followed those of +maturer age, after them came a still older class, and the last circle +consisted of people as tall as steeples; most of whom held infants in +their arms. Altogether a large amphitheatre was formed of black +woolly heads, and white teeth set in jetty faces, and although the +Landers felt rather amazed at their innocent curiosity, and were +obliged to wait a considerable time for the new chief, they could +not help being highly diverted with the spectacle around them; at +length, to their great relief and joy, intelligence was brought that +the chief was ready to receive them. It appears that the principles +of etiquette at the royal courts, whether of Europe or of Africa, are +not definitively settled, for that which at the court of a William +the fourth, would be considered as the extreme of rudeness and +disrespect, is at the African courts construed into the most decisive +testimony of good breeding and politeness. It may be difficult to +determine to which the preference ought to be given, but as etiquette +is an essential in all courts, no matter how far it departs from +common sense and reason, we do not see why, as amongst the many +fooleries which are enacted at courts, the African system should not +be introduced. It happens, however, that the etiquette of the +European and African are decidedly dissimilar: to make an individual +wait is certainly considered in the former, as a breach of good +manners, whereas in the latter, the longer a person is made to wait +before the introduction takes place, the greater is the honour done +him, and the higher is the rank of that person supposed to be, who +exacts that ungracious duty. They discovered the chief, or rather +governor, sitting on a piece of leather, under a large verandah at +one end of a commodious square yard. He was clad in the prevailing +finery of crimson velvet tobe and cap, both edged with gold lace. At +his right hand sat his wives and women, and the brothers were desired +to place themselves on his loft. The women sang the praises of their +master in a loud unpleasant voice, in which they were assisted by the +music, equally inharmonious, of drums, fifes, clarionets, and horns. +On their wishing the chief all the happiness in the world, all the +people who had flocked into the yard after them, and every one near +the chief, prostrated themselves on the ground, and clapped their +hands. Goora nuts were now presented to them in water, and a +profusion of compliments passed on both sides; but the dignity of the +newly-made governor seemed to sit rather awkwardly upon him for he +was as shy and bashful as a maiden, and really appeared agitated, and +afraid of his white-faced visitants. Strange as it may appear, the +patience of the most patient people in the world was completely +exhausted, as might be seen by the desertion of the premises before +the travellers quitted them, notwithstanding the few words that had +passed between them and the chief. The ceremony being over, they bade +adieu to the chief, and having visited the grave of Dr. Morrison on +their way, they repaired to a hut which had been got ready for their +reception. + +The former governor of Jenna, who it will be recollected treated the +gentlemen composing the last mission so handsomely, died about +fifteen months before the arrival of the Landers, and the king of +Youriba chose one of the meanest of his slaves as his successor. This +appears, however, to be an invariable rule with the sovereigns of +that country, of which Jenna is a province; for they fear as its +distance from the capital is very great, that a person of higher +rank, if possessed of talents and spirit, could easily influence the +natives to throw off the yoke, and declare themselves independent of +Youriba. The then governor was a Houssa man, and was raised to the +dignity he then held, in all probability, on account of his childish +simplicity, and artlessness, for a person with a countenance more +indicative of innocence, and perhaps stupidity also, they never +recollected to have seen. The qualities of his heart were, however, +said to be excellent, and his manners were mild and amiable. He had +been twelve months in coming from Katunga to Jenna; being under the +necessity of stopping at every town between that place and the +capital, to receive the applause and congratulations of the +inhabitants, and to join in their festivities and amusements. + +The showers were now becoming heavier, and fell more frequently than +heretofore, indeed the rainy season may be said fairly to have +commenced, the thermometer, on the 6th of April, fell suddenly from +94° to 78", and remained stationary there for the whole of the day. + +On the 7th April they carried a present to the governor, which he +received with every mark of satisfaction and gratitude; but he +declared with sorrow that he should be obliged to send some of it to +the king of Katunga, who would not allow him to wear red cloth, till +he had been a longer time established in his new situation. + +It is related in Captain Clapperton's journal, that one of old +Pascoe's wives eloped from him in Katunga, whilst he was asleep, +taking with her the trinkets Mr. Belzoni had given him, and said that +she was never afterwards heard of. This woman had the effrontery to +introduce herself into the house of the Landers with an infant, +whereof she asserted with warmth that Pascoe was the father, and that +she was determined to leave it upon his hands. She had prevailed upon +a number of Houssa women to accompany her, that they might endeavour +to induce her quondam husband, who was a countryman of theirs, to +receive the child, and make up the breach between them; but the +infant not being more than nine or at most twelve months old, and +three or four years having elapsed since the elopement took place, +they were convinced that, independently of the age and infirmities of +Pascoe, it could not by any rule or law be his. Accordingly, +notwithstanding the uproar occasioned by the women's tongues, which, +whether in Africa or elsewhere, is a very serious matter, the mother +with her spurious offspring, and the ladies who came to aid and abet +her imposition, were turned out of the yard without any ceremony, to +the great relief of Pascoe, and his present wife, who felt rather +uncomfortable, whilst the palaver was carrying on. + +The fetish priest of the town came dancing into the hut, shortly +after the ladies had retired, looking exceedingly wild, and roaring +as if possessed by an evil spirit. They paid little attention to the +fellow's fooleries, who, not liking his reception, left the hut, +after he had received the accustomed fee of a few kowries. The person +and dress of the man, together with his whimsical ornaments, were +admirably adapted to impose on the credulity and superstition of the +inhabitants; although many people of the town, influenced perhaps by +the spreading doctrines of Mahomet, spoke their minds pretty freely, +calling him a scoundrel and a devil. There was something peculiar in +this priest's countenance, which could not be defined. On his +shoulders he bore a large club, carved at one end with the figure of +a man's head. A vast number of strings of kowries were suspended on +this weapon, which were intermixed with shells, broken combs, small +pieces of wood with rude imitations of men's faces cut on them, large +sea-shells, bits of iron and brass, nut shells, &c. &c. Perhaps, the +number of kosries on his person did not fall far short of twenty +thousand, and the weight of his various ornaments almost pressed him +to the ground. After this fellow had left their apartment, three or +four others came to torment them with drums, whistles, and horns, and +began and ended the evening's serenade to their own infinite delight +and satisfaction. The native drum answers the purpose of a +tambourine, and bagpipe as well, and is of peculiar formation. Its +top is encircled with little brass bells, and is played upon with one +hand, whilst the fingers of the other were employed at the same time +in tapping on its surface. The instrument itself was held under the +left arm, but instead of an outer wooden case, strings alone were +used from end to end, which being pressed against the musician's +side, sounds somewhat similar to those of a Scotch bagpipe, but very +inferior, are produced. The drummers, with their companions of the +horns and whistles, subsist entirely on the charity of the public, +who require their services on all occasions of general merriment and +jollity. + +On the morning of the 8th of April, the two messengers who arrived at +Badagry whilst the Landers were there, and stated that they had been +employed for the purpose by the governor of Jenna, were discovered to +be impostors, and put in irons accordingly. But as the poor fellows +had really been of essential service to them, inasmuch as by their +representations, they had prevailed upon Adooley to give them leave +to proceed on their journey much sooner than they themselves could +have done; they thought proper to intercede, in their behalf, and +although they were to have been sold for their deception, they were +set at liberty. The person also who had met them with a horse after +crossing the river Yow near Bidjie, proceeded thither on his own +account, without the knowledge or consent of the governor, but as he +was a Fellata and a respectable man, little was said or done about +that matter. The only motive, which could have influenced these three +men in their projects of assisting the travellers, had been without +doubt in the expectation of receiving a trifling remuneration, and of +this, notwithstanding an injunction to the contrary from the +governor, they did not disappoint them, their services were well +timed and very acceptable, and amply deserved the reward of a few +needles and scissors. + +The travellers were this morning witnesses to a specimen of native +tumbling and dancing, with the usual accompaniments of vocal and +instrumental music; by far the most diverting part of the +entertainment was the dancing, but even this did not at all answer +the expectations they had formed of it. The dancers were liberally +supplied with country beer, and like most amusements of the kind, +this one ended in wrangling and intoxication. + +The fellows who accompanied them as guides from Badagry, and who, in +their native place would sell their birthright for a glass of rum, +had now washed themselves, and thrown aside their rags, appearing in +all public places in borrowed finery. They now never left their +habitations without Adooley's sword, which they had with them, and a +host of followers. On this morning, they attended the celebration of +the games in showy apparel, with silk umbrellas held over their +heads; and amongst other articles of dress, the principal of them +wore an immense drab-coloured quaker's hat of the coarsest quality. +So great were their ostentation and pride, that they would scarcely +deign to speak to a poor man. + +It was now they learned with great regret, that all the horses of the +late governor of Jenna, had been interred according to custom with +the corpse of their master, and they consequently began to be +apprehensive that they should be obliged to walk the whole of the way +to Katunga, as the present ruler was not the owner of a single beast +of burthen. This piece of ill news was carefully withheld from the +travellers, until the presents had been all duly delivered to the +governor and his head men; but in this instance, the latter alone +were to blame. Matters being thus unpleasantly situated, they sent a +messenger to the chief of Larro, informing him of the circumstance, +and entreating him to redeem his promise of lending them a horse and +mule; and another messenger was sent to Adooley, requesting him to +despatch immediately, at least one of their horses from Badagry, for +they had found it impossible to proceed without them. It was not +supposed that he would pay any attention to the request; and yet on +the other hand, it was scarcely to be imagined that he would carry +his chicanery so far, because he must fear that the variety of orders +they had given him, to receive valuable presents from England, would +never be honoured by their countrymen, if he refused to fulfil his +engagements with them. + +Since the demise of the late governor, it was calculated that Jenna +had lost more than five hundred of its population, chiefly by wars, +intestine broils, &c. and all for want of a ruler. It must not, +however, be imagined, that because the people of this country are +almost perpetually engaged in conflicts with their neighbours, the +slaughter of human beings is therefore very great. They pursue war, +as it is called, partly as an amusement, or "to keep their hands in +it," and partly to benefit themselves by the capture of slaves. As +they were sailing down the coast, they were informed that the natives +of La Hoo, and Jack-a-jack, had been warring for three years +previously, and were still at variance, but during that long period +only one single decrepit old woman, who found it no easy matter to +run as fast as her countrymen, was left behind, and became the +solitary victim of a hundred engagements. Much after the same fashion +are the bloodless wars of Jenna. Success depends much more on the +cunning and address of the parties, than on any extraordinary display +of intrepidity, and living not dead subjects are sought after, so +that it is their interest to avoid hard blows, and enrich themselves +by the sale of their prisoners. Perhaps the extraordinary decrease in +the population of Jenna, has arisen principally from the desertion of +slaves, who embrace the opportunity, whilst their masters are from +home, engaged in predatory excursions, of running away; and thus the +latter often become losers instead of gainers by their unnatural +passion for stealing their fellow creatures. The individuals captured +are sent to the coast, and the chiefs of those unsettled and +barbarous tribes that inhabit it, are appointed agents to regulate +the sale of them, for which they receive half the profits. + +Late in the evening, the young Fellata already mentioned, paid them a +visit, and offered his horse for sale. He was a mahommedan priest, +and was accompanied by a countryman of the same persuasion, but +neither of the holy men appeared in their dealing to understand the +meaning of truth or justice. An agreement was made and thirty dollars +paid. The merchant implored them not to tell his father, who was the +real owner of the horse, that he had sold him for less money than he +had received, and in this request, he was seconded by his more +venerable friend, because he said he wanted a small sum for his +private use, which he knew his parent would refuse him. The words +were hardly out of their mouths, before the two Mussulmans publicly +went through their ablutions in front of the house, where, turning +their faces to the east, they seemed to pray very devoutly to the +founder of their faith. When this was concluded, they sang an Arabic +hymn with great solemnity, and the whole had a wonderful and +immediate effect on the feelings of many of their followers in the +yard, who, mistaking loudness of voice for fervour, and hypocritical +seriousness for piety, made the two worshippers a present of money. +The Fellatas are generally supposed to be spies from Soccatoo, but +although this is a very prevalent opinion, no measures whatever have +yet been taken either to watch their motions, or question them as to +their intentions. + +The women of Jenna employ themselves generally either in spinning +cotton, or preparing Indian corn for food. Much of the former +material grows in the vicinity of the town, but the cultivation of +the plant is not carried on with that spirit which it deserves. Silk, +which is brought over land from Tripoli, the inhabitants sometimes +interweave in their cotton garments, but such being very expensive, +are only worn by the higher class of people. They have abundance of +sheep, bullocks, pigs, goats, and poultry, but they prefer vegetable +food to animal; their diet, indeed, is what we should term poor and +watery, consisting chiefly of preparations of the yam and Indian +corn, notwithstanding which a stronger or more athletic race of +people is nowhere to be met with. Burdens with them, as with the +natives of many parts of the continent, are invariably carried on the +head, which, it is more than likely, occasions that dignified +uprightness of form, and stateliness of walk, so often spoken of by +those acquainted with the pleasing peculiarities, of the African +female. The weight of a feather is borne on the head in preference to +its being carried in the hand; and it not infrequently requires the +united strength of three men to lift a calabash of goods from the +ground to the shoulder of one, and then, and not till then, does the +amazing strength of the African appear. The greater part of the +inhabitants of Jenna have the hair of their head and their eyebrows +shaven. But the governor's ministers and servants wear their hair in +the shape of a horse shoe as a mark of distinction. It is confined to +the crown of the head by large daubs of indigo, and none of the +people presuming to imitate it, it answers the purpose of a livery. + +The early part of the morning of April 10th, was obscured by a mist +or haze, which was as thick, and at least as unwholesome, as a London +fog in November, but between nine and ten o'clock it dispersed; and +the sun shone out with uncommon lustre. The hut which they occupied +was in a large square yard, and was the property of the late +governor's wife, whose story is rather romantic. Each of its sides +was formed by huts, which had all at one time been inhabited, but a +fire having broken out in one of them by some accident, the greater +part perished. A few huts were only then standing, together with +black, naked walls, and stakes, which supported the verandahs, the +latter reduced to charcoal. The tenantable buildings were inhabited +by the female slaves of the owner of the square, and the travellers +and their suite. + +It is the custom in this place, when a governor dies, for two of his +favourite wives to quit the world on the same day, in order that he +may have a little, pleasant, social company in a future state; but +the late governor's devoted wives had neither ambition nor +inclination to follow their venerable husband to the grave, not +having had or got, according to their opinion, enough of the good +things of this world; they therefore went, and hid themselves before +the funeral ceremonies were performed, and had remained concealed +ever since with the remainder of their women. On this, day, however, +one of these unfortunates, the individual to whom the house belonged, +which the travellers resided, was discovered in her hiding place at +the present governor's, and the alternative of a poisoned chalice, or +to have her head broken by the club of a fetish priest, was offered +her. She chose the former mode of dying, as being the less terrible +of the two; and she, on this morning, came to their yard, to spend +her last hours in the society of her faithful slaves, by whom she was +addressed by the endearing name of mother. Poor creatures! as soon as +they learnt her misfortune, they dropped their spinning; the grinding +of corn was also relinquished; their sheep, goats, and poultry were +suffered to roam at large without restraint, and they abandoned +themselves to the most excessive and poignant grief; but now, on the +arrival of their mistress, their affliction seemed to know no bounds. +There is not to be found in the world perhaps, an object more truly +sorrowful, than a lonely defenceless woman in tears; and on such an +occasion as this, it may very easily be conceived that the distress +was more peculiarly cutting. A heart that could not be touched at a +scene of this nature, must be unfeeling indeed. Females were arriving +the whole day, to condole with the old lady, and to weep with her, so +that the travellers neither heard nor saw any thing but sobbing and +crying from morning to the setting of the sun. The principal males in +the town likewise came to pay their last respects to their mistress, +as well as her grave-digger, who prostrated himself on the ground +before her. Notwithstanding the representations and remonstrances of +the priest, and the prayers of the venerable victim to her gods, for +fortitude to undergo the dreadful ordeal, her resolution forsook her +more than once. She entered the yard twice to expire in the arms of +her women, and twice did she lay aside the fatal draught, in order to +take another walk, and gaze once more on the splendour of the sun and +the glory of the heavens, for she could not bear the idea of losing +sight of them forever. She was for some time restless and uneasy, and +would gladly have run away from death, if she durst; for that +imaginary being appeared to her in a more terrible light, than our +pictures represent him with his shadowy form and fatal dart. Die she +must, and she knew it; nevertheless she tenaciously clung to life +till the very last moment. In the mean time her grave was preparing, +and preparations were making for a wake at her funeral. She was to be +buried in one of her own huts, the moment after the spirit had +quitted the body, which was to be ascertained by striking the ground +near which it might be lying at the time, when, if no motion or +struggle ensued, the old woman was to be considered as dead. The +poison used by the natives on these occasions, destroys life, it is +reported, in fifteen minutes. + +The reason of the travellers not meeting with a better reception when +they slept at Laatoo, was the want of a chief to that town, the last +having followed the old governor of Jenna, to the eternal shades, for +he was his slave. Widows are burnt in India, just as they are +poisoned or _clubbed_ at Jenna, but in the former country no male +victims are destroyed on such occasions. The original of the +abominable custom at Jenna, of immolating the favourite wives, is +understood to have arisen from the dread on the part of the chiefs of +the country in olden times, that their principal wives, who alone +were in possession of their confidence, and knew where their money +was concealed, might secretly attempt their life, in order at once to +establish their own freedom, and become possessed of the property; +that, so far from entertaining any motive to destroy her husband, a +woman might on the contrary have a strong inducement to cherish him +as long as possible, the existence of the wife was made to depend +entirely on that of her lord, and this custom has been handed down +from father to son even to the present time. But why men also, who +can have no interest to gain on the death of their prince, should be +obliged to conform to the same rite, is not to be so easily accounted +for. The individual, who was governor of Jenna at the time of the +visit of the Landers, must of necessity go down to the grave on the +first intelligence of the demise of the king of Youriba, and as that +monarch was a very aged man, the situation of the former was not the +most enviable in the world. + +Previously to her swallowing the poison, the favourite wife of a +deceased chief or ruler destroys privately all the wealth, or rather +money of her former partner, in order that it may not fall into the +hands of her successor. The same custom is observed at Badagry also, +and although the king's son may be of age at the period of his +father's death, he inherits his authority and influence only. He is +left to his own sagacity and exertions to procure wealth, which can +seldom be obtained without rapine, enslavement, and bloodshed. + +Whenever a town is deprived of its chief, the inhabitants acknowledge +no law; anarchy, troubles, and confusion immediately prevail, and +until a successor is appointed, all labour is at an end. The stronger +oppress the weak, and perpetrate every species of crime, without +being amenable to any tribunal for their actions. Private property is +no longer respected, and thus, before a person arrives to curb its +licentiousness, a town is not unfrequently reduced from a flourishing +state of prosperity and of happiness to all the horrors of +desolation. + +Considerable surprise was now excited at the delay of the messenger, +who was sent to Badagry for the horses, on which they placed so much +value, for he had not yet returned, although he promised to be back +in four days from the time of his departure. As he had exceeded the +time by a whole day, and being a native of Badagry, the travellers +had given up all hopes of again seeing either him or the horse, or +even the message sword they had lent him as a token that he had been +sent by them. Positive assurances were given them that leave would be +granted to depart from Jenna on the following week, but as they had +only one horse, they would be obliged to take it in turns to ride, or +procure a hammock, which it would be a difficult thing to get, and +attended with considerable expense. + +In the mean time, the devoted old queen dowager engrossed the chief +part of their attention, although her doom was inevitably fixed, yet +her cheerfulness appeared rather to increase, and she seemed +determined to spin out her thread of life to its utmost limit; spies +were now set over her, and she was not permitted to go out of +the yard. + +On Monday the 12th of April, the travellers had the customary visit +to their yard of a long line of women, who came every morning with +rueful countenances and streaming eyes to lament the approaching +death of the old widow. They wept, they beat their breast and tore +their hair; they moaned, and exhibited all manner of violent +affliction at the expected deprivation. Perhaps their sorrow was +sincere, perhaps it was feigned; at all events their lamentations +were ungovernable and outrageous; the first woman in the line begins +the cry, and is instantly followed by the other voices; the opening +notes of the lamentation were rather low and mournful, the last wild +and piercing. + +The principal people of the place finding the old lady still +obstinately bent on deferring her exit, sent a messenger to her +native village, to make known to her relatives, that should she make +her escape, they would take all of them into slavery, and burn their +town to ashes, in conformity to an established and very ancient law. +They therefore strongly advised the relatives of the old woman for +their own sakes, and for the sake of the public, to use all their +endeavours to prevail upon her to meet her fate honourably and with +fortitude. A deputation was expected from the village on the morrow, +when no doubt, after a good deal of crying and condoling, and talking +and persuading, the matter will eventually be decided against the old +lady. It was well understood that she had bribed a few of the most +opulent and influential inhabitants of Jenna with large sums of +money, to induce them to overlook her dereliction from the path of +duty, and by their representations that she had obtained the tacit +consent of the king of Katunga to live out the full term of her +natural life. But the people for many miles round, horror-struck at +such impiety and contempt for ancient customs, rose to enforce the +laws of her country against her. + +On Tuesday April 13th, the town of Jenna was visited by one of those +terrific thunder storms, which are so prevalent in those latitudes. +The thatched hut in which the Landers resided, afforded but an +insecure and uncertain asylum against its fury. Part of the roof was +swept away, and the rain admitted freely upon their beds, whence the +most awful lightning flashes could be seen, making "darkness +visible." It appeared as if the genius of the storm were driving +through the murky clouds in his chariot of fire to awaken the +slumbering creation, and make them feel and acknowledge his power. It +was, indeed, a grand lesson to human pride, to contemplate the +terrors of a tornado through the trembling walls and roof of a gloomy +dilapidated hut in the interior of Africa. It is scenes like these, +which make the traveller think of his home, his friends, and his +fireside enjoyments, and by comparison, estimate the blessings which +are his portion in his native land. In civilized countries, when men +are visited by an awful calamity of this kind, the distinctions of +rank are levelled, and numbers flock together, for the purpose of +keeping each other in countenance, and strengthening each other's +nerves; but here all was naked, gloomy, desolate. + +They passed the night, as may be supposed, in a very uncomfortable +state. The roof of their dwelling had long been infested with a +multitude of rats and mice; and these vermin being dislodged from +their haunts, by the violence of the wind and rain, sought immediate +shelter between their bed-clothes; and to this very serious +inconvenience was added another still greater, viz. the company of +lizards, ants, mosquitoes, besides worms and centipedes, and other +crawling, creeping, and noxious things, which the tempest seemed to +renovate with life and motion. After a long, long night, the morning +at length appeared, and the terrors of the storm were forgotten. + +Not long after sunrise, two fresh legions of women entered their +yard, to mourn with their old mistress, and the shrieks and +lamentations of these visitors, were more violent than any of their +predecessors. It made them shudder to hear their cries. The piercing +cries, that assailed the ears of Telemachus, at his entrance into +the infernal regions, were not more dolorous or fearful. Their eyes +were red with weeping; their hands were clasped on the crown of the +head; their hair was in frightful disorder, and two channels of tears +were plainly seen flowing down over the naked bosom of each of the +women. In this manner they passed before the threshold of the hut in +two close lines, and were observed to bend the knee to the venerable +matron, without uttering a word. They then rose and departed, and +their cries could be heard long after they were out of sight. + +Matters were now arranged for their departure, and after breakfast +they went to pay their last respects to the governor. Of course they +were obliged to wait a tiresome length of time outside his residence, +before admittance was obtained; but when the doors were opened, the +band that were in attendance inside, played a native tune as a token +of welcome. A greater number of drummers were observed than on any +former occasion. Some of their instruments were something in the +shape of a cone, and profusely ornamented with plates and figures of +brass. On one of these was represented the busts of two men, with a +tortoise in the act of eating out of the mouth of one of them. The +tortoise had a cock by its side, and two dogs standing as guardians +of the whole. These figures were ail ingeniously carved in solid +brass. Both ends of the larger drums were played on with the palms of +the hand; hundreds of little brass bells were suspended round the +edges for ornament rather than use; for being without clappers, they +could not produce any sound. The common native drum is beaten on one +of its ends only, and with a stick shaped like a bow. + +After a little conversation, the chief and his principal people shook +the Landers affectionately by the hand, and wished them every +blessing; and as soon as they got outside the yard, they mounted +their horses and rode out of the town. The chief of Larro had broken +his promise, but they were fortunate enough to meet with and purchase +another horse that morning, so that they cared little about it. Their +pathway led through a champaign country, partially wooded; and after +a pleasant ride of three quarters of an hour, they entered the small +village of Bidjie. Here their carriers dropped their loads, nor could +they be induced to resume them by the most pressing solicitations. +Nor would the villagers, as their duty required, take them up; but +when they were begged to do so, they laughed at them, so that they +were compelled to remain at Bidjie until the following day. This was +very provoking, but such was the tiresome mode of travelling through +this country. No consideration can induce the natives to shake off +their habitual indolence, not if a voice from heaven were to be +heard, would they do it. Pleasure and sloth are with them synonymous +terms, and they are scarcely alive to any other gratification. In the +mean time, the chief, who appeared to be a very good sort of man, +although he had little authority over his people, sent them a fatted +goat; and being in good health, and having very encouraging prospects +held out to them as to their future progress, they were determined to +forget their little troubles and vexations, and spend the evening as +cheerfully as they could. + +Hawks and vultures are exceedingly numerous both at Jenna and this +place, the former are bold and disgusting birds, but the latter are +so hungry and rapacious that they pounce fearlessly in the midst of +the natives when at their meals. Whilst the Landers were at supper, +one of them darted at a piece of meat, which one of their men held +between his fingers, and snatched it from him whilst he was conveying +it to his mouth. + +At an early hour of Wednesday the 14th April, to the infinite +surprise and pleasure of the Landers, the man from Badagry made his +appearance with one of their horses and an English saddle. The latter +was as acceptable to them as the horse, for on the preceding day, for +want of a saddle, they were obliged to substitute a piece of cloth, +and the back of the animal being as sharp as a knife, it was no very +pleasant thing to ride him; walking would have been the far less +irksome exercise of the two. Pascoe, whose sagacity and experience +proved of infinite service to them, was lamed in his endeavours to +walk as fast as the rest of the party, and as he had the misfortune +of having one leg shorter than the other he became the general butt +and laughing stock of his more robust companions. This day, however, +they mounted him on the extra horse, on the back of which he retorted +their revilings, and the whole of them became as envious of his +dignity, as they were before facetious at his expense. + +They took their departure from Bidjie while the morning was yet cool +and pleasant, and arrived at Chow before eleven o'clock in the +forenoon. The natives have an unaccountable fancy that white men are +fond of poultry to an excess, insomuch that whenever they entered a +town or village, all the fowls were immediately seized and confined +in a place of security until their departure. + +Several strangers accompanied them from town to town, for the purpose +of evading the duty which is exacted at the turnpike gates, by +stating themselves to be of the number of their attendants. Women +also placed themselves under the protection of their men from Cape +Coast Castle, in order that they might enjoy a similar advantage; in +return for this favour, they showed a great willingness to do for +them many little kind offices, and they were found particularly +useful in making fires, preparing food, &c. for the whole of the +party. + +Their journey throughout the whole of this day was extremely +pleasant. At one time the path ran in a serpentine direction through +plains covered with green turf, at another it led them amidst large +groves of stately trees, from whose branches a variety of playful +chattering monkeys diverted them by their mischievous tricks, and the +grey parrot, with its discordant, shrill scream, and other beautiful +birds, "warbled their native wood notes wild." + +The chief of Chow, who received and entertained Captain Clapperton, +had been dead some time, and was succeeded by a humble, good natured, +and active individual, who treated the white men more like demi-gods +than human beings. At the time of their arrival, he was engaged in +superintending the slaves at his corn and yam plantations, but he +hastened to them the moment he was informed of the circumstance. He +possessed a number of horses, one of which was the smallest and most +beautiful animal they ever beheld. + +In the evening, the chief visited them again with a present of +provisions, and a few goora nuts. Richard Lander took the opportunity +of playing on a bugle horn in his presence, by which he was violently +agitated, under the supposition that the instrument was nothing less +than a snake. + +For the first time since their landing they observed the loom in +active operation; the manufacture of cotton cloth is, however, +carried on exclusively by women, the men appearing too slothful and +indolent to undertake any labour, which might subject them to +fatigue. + +On the following day the path wound through a country charmingly +diversified by hill and dale, woods and open glades, and watered by +streams flowing over beds of fine white sand. A horseman from Katunga +met them about ten o'clock in the morning, whose dress and +accoutrements were highly grotesque. He neither stopped nor spoke, +but couched his lance as he gallopped past them. It was supposed that +he was the bearer of a message to the chief of Jenna, from the king +of Katunga, and that it had some reference to themselves, but whether +it was an act of caution or of compliment could not be ascertained. + +They met a number of people of both sexes in the path, who were +returning from Egga to Chow, and several naked boys on their way to +the coast, under the care of guardians. These were slaves, and would +be most likely sold at Badagry. Some of the woman bore burdens on +their heads, that would have tired a mule and broken the neck of a +Covent Garden Irish woman, and children not more than five or six +years old trudged after them with loads that would have given a full +grown person in Europe the brain fever. + +They departed from Chow before sunrise; a surprising dew had fallen +during the night and distilled from the leaves and branches in large +drops. They passed during the forenoon, over three or four swampy +places, covered with reeds, rushes, and rank grass, which were +inhabited by myriads of frogs of prodigious size. On crossing the +streams, they were invariably saluted by a loud and unaccountable +hissing, as if from a multitude of serpents. They could not account +for this extraordinary noise in any other way, than by supposing it +to have proceeded from some species of insects, whose retreats they +had invaded. + +With very trifling manual labour, the path, which was little better +than a mere gutter formed by repeated rains, might be converted into +a good and commodious road; and were a tree simply thrown over them, +the streams and morasses might be crossed with ease and safely. But +the natives appeared to have no idea whatever of such improvements, +and would rather be entangled in thick underwood, and wade through +pools of mud and water, than give themselves any trouble about +repairing the road. But the native, however, says to himself, and not +unjustly, _cui bono?_ neither in England or in Africa are +individuals to be found, who will undertake a work of difficulty and +fatigue gratuitously, merely for the benefit and accommodation of +others; characters of that description are very rarely to be found, +and perhaps the interior of Africa is the last place in the world +where we should look for them. An Englishman might find it to be his +interest to repair the roads on which he is frequently obliged to +travel; but what benefit can accrue to the uncivilized African, and +particularly the slave, who has not a blade of grass under the canopy +of Heaven, which he can call his own, to trouble himself about the +repair of a road, on which he might never have occasion to travel, +and which, with the great uncertainty which is always hanging over +his future condition in life, he may never fee again. Trees not +unfrequently fall across the pathway, but instead of removing them, +the people form a large circuit round them, even a small ant hill is +an object too mighty to be meddled with, and it is left in the centre +of the narrow road, to be jumped over, or to be travelled round, +according to the option of the traveller. + +Several women, with little wooden figures of children on their heads, +passed them in the course of the morning; they were mothers, who, +having lost a child, carry these rude imitations of them about their +persons for an indefinite time, as a symbol of mourning. Not one of +them could be induced to part with one of these little affectionate +memorials. + +They entered Egga, which is a very large town, in the early part of +the afternoon. On their arrival, they were introduced into the house +occupied by Captain Clapperton on his last journey, in the yard of +which, repose the remains of an Englishman, named Dawson, who died +here of a fever when that officer passed through the country. Both +the hut and yard were soon tilled with people, and were in a state of +filth, which baffles all description. They could not by any means rid +themselves of sheep, goats, and fowls, with their train; in spite of +all their attempts to remove them, they were determined to be their +companions, and this grievance, added to the tongues of a hundred +visitors, made their situation all but intolerable. + +Egga is the principal market town in this part of Africa, and is +attended by buyers and sellers for many miles round. Women here are +the chief, if not the only traders, most of them are of graceful and +prepossessing exterior, and they all practise those petty tricks and +artifices in their dealings, with which the market women of more +civilized countries are not unacquainted. + +This day, April 16th, was one of the hottest they ever remember to +have felt. They found the path in much better condition, than that on +which they had previously travelled, and it lay almost entirely +through plantations of yams, calavances and pumpkins, and three or +four different varieties of corn, which a number of labourers were +employed in weeding, &c. The hoe is the only implement of husbandry +in use, and indeed they can well dispense with every other, because +the soil, during the rainy months, is so soft and light, that but +very little manual exertion in working it is required. Population is +abundant, labourers may be hired to any number; and it may be +affirmed that he introduction of the plough would scarcely be a +blessing, but on the contrary, it would furnish fresh encouragement +to the general sin of indolence. + +Having crossed at noon a small but agreeable river flowing from east +to west, in which several females were bathing and washing clothes, +they shortly afterwards entered the capacious and populous town of +Jedoo. Here they were informed that the chief had been in the grave +more than a twelvemonth; and that no one having yet been nominated to +succeed him, every thing continued in a state of confusion and +misrule. They were conducted, after having waited a little, into a +large yard belonging to the late governor, and in a short time +received a visit from his brother, in company with all the elders of +the place; their conversation was, however, very unpleasant, and +their whole behaviour much cooler than was agreeable, the more so as +such a reception had been entirely unexpected. + +The yard in which they resided, was perfectly circular, and walled +with huts, all tenanted by the late chiefs widows, who employ their +time and earn their livelihood by spinning and weaving. Not less than +a hundred of the king of Katunga's ladies were lodging in the yard +with them. They had all passed the bloom of life, and had lately +arrived with loads of trona and country cloth, which they barter for +salt, and various articles of European manufacture, particularly +beads; with these they return home, and expose them for sale in the +market, and afterwards the profits are taken to their husbands. These +royal ladies are distinguished from their countrywomen only by a +peculiar species of cloth, which is wrapped round their goods, and +which no one dared to imitate on pain of perpetual slavery. This +severe punishment is often inflicted, for, as the king's wives pay no +tribute or turnpike dues whatever, and must besides be entertained by +the chiefs of every town through which they pass, strong inducements +are offered for others to attempt to deceive, by using the forbidden +cloth, and hence examples are necessary. As a contrast to the +afflicted females of Jenna, the wives of the king of Katunga all fell +to crying for joy this evening, on recognizing a few old acquaintance +in the yard, who soon joined them in the melancholy music. It was +highly ridiculous to see them, for after the first burst had +subsided, they began to chat with a garrulity far beyond that of the +most talkative of their European sisters. The conversation lasted +more than an hour, till at last it resolved itself into a violent +quarrel, which lasted during the remainder of the day. + +It was now ten o'clock, and the women were still sitting in groups +round the several wood fires. The travellers themselves only occupied +a small verandah, which was simply the projection of the roof of a +thatched hut. Their horses were fastened to wooden stakes in the +centre of the yard; their men were lying round them, warming +themselves at their own fires. Sheep, beautiful sheep with tinkling +bells hung round their necks, were chewing the cud in peace and +happiness. But notwithstanding it was the hour of repose, the tongues +of the female travellers were making a clatter which all the women of +Billingsgate could not rival, and together with the squalling of +brats innumerable, completely spoiled the emotions, which the wild +and pleasing scene around them would otherwise have awakened in their +breasts. The sheep here are regarded with as much partiality, and +treated much in the same manner as ladies lap dogs are in England. +Great care is taken to keep them clean and in good condition; they +are washed every morning in soap and water; and so greatly are they +attached to their masters or mistresses, that they are constantly at +their meals, following them in doors and out, from town to town, and +in all their peregrinations. Goats, sheep, swine and poultry are in +great plenty here, and in the possession of every one, +notwithstanding which they are always excessively dear, because the +people take a pride in displaying the number and quality of their +domesticated animals. + +The inhabitants of Jeado are in general very decently dressed in +cotton dresses of their own manufacture. In their persons, they are +much more agreeable, than those who reside near the sea. European +goods are brought hither from Dahomey and Badagry, but more +especially from Lagos, and are daily exposed for sale in the markets +of Jadoo and Egga. Several chiefs on the road, questioned the +travellers to account to them for the Portuguese not purchasing so +many slaves as formerly, and they made very sad complaints of the +stagnation of that branch of traffic. It would perhaps have been as +much as their heads were worth, to have told them the true reason. + +Hippopotami abound in the rivers in the vicinity of the town, when +young, the flesh and skin of these animals are sold as food, and +whips and other articles are made of the skins of the old ones. At +the usual hour of the following day, April 17th, they quitted Jadoo, +and in the middle of the day arrived at a clean, pretty little +village, called Pooya. The appearance of the country between these +places is extremely fine, resembling a magnificent orchard. On their +way they met several hundreds of people of both sexes and all ages, +with a great number of bullocks, sheep, and goats, together with +fowls and pigeons, which were carried on the head in neat wicker +baskets. Several of the travellers were loaded with country cloth, +and indigo in large round balls. They were all slaves, and were +proceeding to the coast from the interior, to sell the goods and +animals under their charge. One old woman had the misfortune to let a +large calabash of palm oil fall from her head: on arriving at the +spot, they found a party of females, her companions in slavery, +wringing their hands and crying. The affliction of the old woman was +bitter indeed, as she dreaded the punishment which awaited her on her +return to the house of her master. John Lander compassionated her +distress, and gave her a large clasp knife, which would more than +recompense her for the loss of the oil, on which the women wiped away +their tears, and fell down on the dust before them, exhibiting +countenances more gladsome and animated than could be conceived. + +The mortality of children must be immense indeed here, for almost +every woman they met with on the road, had one or more of those +little wooden images, already mentioned. Wherever the mothers stopped +to take refreshment, a small part of their food was invariably +presented to the lips of these inanimate memorials. The daughters of +civilization may boast of the refinement of their feelings, but under +what circumstances did they ever exhibit a stronger instance of +maternal affection than these rude, untutored mothers of interior +Africa evinced to our travellers. The English mother will frequently +deposit her child in the grave, and a few days afterwards will be +seen joining in all the pleasures and vanities of the world. Whirled +about in a vortex of dissipation, the mother of civilization bears no +memorial about her of the infant that is in its grave; but the +uncivilized African carries about with her the image of her child, +and, in the full force of her maternal affection, feeds not herself +until in her imagination she has fed the being who once was dear to +her. There was something beautifully affectionate in the mother +offering the food to the images of her children, and had a whole +volume been written in display of the African female character, a +more forcible illustration could not have been given of it. + +Although Pooya is considered by the natives to be a day's journey +from Jadoo, they only halted to pay their respects to the chief, and +then continued their journey over gentle hills, and through valleys +watered by streams and rivulets, so as to reach Engua in the +afternoon. The soil between the two towns is mostly dry and sterile, +and large masses of ironstone, which looked as if they had undergone +the action of fire, presented themselves almost at every step. The +day was oppressively hot, and as they had been exposed to the sun for +a great number of hours, when they reached Engua, their skin was +scorched and highly inflamed, which proved very painful to them. +Richard Lander was comparatively inured to the climate, but his +brother now begun to feel it severely, he was sore, tired, and +feverish, and longed to be down in a hut, but they were obliged to +remain under a tree for three hours, before they could be favoured +with that opportunity, because the chief of that town was engaged in +making a fetish, for the purpose of counteracting any evil intentions +that the white men might entertain towards him. All their people were +fatigued and exhausted on the road, complaining much of the heat, and +one of them was brought to them in the evening in a high fever. Engua +is the town where the lamented Captain Pearce breathed his last, and +here also Captain Clapperton felt quite disheartened, and almost +despaired of penetrating further into the interior of the country. +The chief sent them only a little Indian corn and water, and +obstinately refused to sell them either a goat, sheep, or any other +animal, although there were many thousands in the town. + +Their reception at Engua was so truly inhospitable, that they arose +at a much earlier hour than they generally did, and proceeded on +their way by starlight. In place of the ironstone which they had +observed on the preceding day, the country was now partially covered +with large and unshapely masses of granite. Mountains and elevated +hills were observed to the right of them, the sides of which were +thickly wooded, and their summits reaching above the clouds. At nine +o'clock, they passed through a neat and cleanly village named Chakka, +which had lately lost its chief, and an hour afterwards crossed a +small river called Akeeney, which was full of sharp and rugged rocks, +and is reported to fall into the Lagos. They were carried over on +men's shoulders without much difficulty, but the horses were a long +time in getting across. Hence the path winded up a high and steep +hill, which they ascended, and entered the town of Afoora about +mid-day. The governor gave them a hearty welcome, and said it made +him so extremely happy to see them, which was also expressed by the +joy and animation of his countenance. The best hut in the town, which +was the most airy and commodious of any they had seen, was presently +got ready for them, and shortly after they had taken possession of +it, they received a quantity of excellent provisions from the chief. + +This was the first day of his government; his father, the late chief, +had been dead some time, but from motives of delicacy he refused to +take upon himself his authority until this morning. In honour of the +event, a large company of women were dancing, rejoicing, and making +merry all the evening, outside their hut. It appeared as rather a +strange circumstance to Richard Lander, that the chief or governor of +almost every town through which they had passed since leaving +Badagry, who was alive and well on his return to the coast three +years ago, had been either slain in war or had died from natural +causes. Scarcely one of them was alive on his present expedition. + +On April 19th, an easy pleasant ride of three hours brought them to +the first walled town they had seen, which was called Assinara. The +wall was of clay and so diminutive, that a person might easily jump +over it; a dry ditch about eighteen inches deep, and three or four +feet in width also surrounds the town. Over this a single plank is +thrown, which answers the purpose of a draw-bridge, and is the only +means the inhabitants have of getting in and out of the place. +Assinara had also lately lost its chief in some battle, and all +business was transacted by a benevolent elderly man, who volunteered +his services till a successor should be appointed. From him the +Landers received the warmest reception, and the most hospitable +treatment. + +The climate now began to have a most debilitating effect upon John +Lander, and from a state of robust health and vigour, he was now +reduced to so great a degree of lassitude and weakness, that he could +scarcely stand a minute at a time. Every former pleasure seemed to +have lost its charm with him. He was on this day attacked with fever, +and his condition would have been hopeless indeed, had his brother +not been near to relieve him. He complained of excessive thirst. Ten +grains of calomel were administered to him, and afterwards a strong +dose of salts. On the following day, April 20th, he was much better +and free from fever, but too weak to travel, their stay, therefore, +at Assinara was unavoidably protracted. + +The acting governor visited them with a very long face, and entreated +the Landers to discover a certain wizard, whom he imagined to be +concealed somewhere in the town. By the influence of this sorcerer, a +number of people, it was said, pined away and died, and women with +child were more especially the object of his malevolence. These +victims dropped down suddenly, without the slightest warning, and the +deaths had lately been so numerous, that the old man himself was +grievously alarmed, and begged a charm to preserve him and his +family. + +On the 23rd, John Lander finding himself considerably invigorated and +refreshed by a day's rest at Assinara, and sufficiently recovered to +pursue their journey, all hands were in readiness to start at an +early hour. The morning was cool and pleasant, and they travelled +onwards in excellent spirits. Without meeting any thing particular in +the path, or perceiving any object sufficiently interesting or novel +to demand attention, they entered the town of Accadoo in the +forenoon, having had an agreeable ride of a few hours duration only. + +At this time John Lander seemed to be free from any kind of complaint +whatever, and enjoyed an unusual cheerfulness and buoyancy of +spirits, which led his brother to form the most flattering +anticipations. In the course of a few minutes, however, his body was +overspread with a burning heat, and he suffered under another attack +of fever, more violent than any of the former. He resorted to the +most powerful remedies, he could think of at the time. His brother +bled him, and applied a strong blister to the region of the stomach, +where the disorder seemed to be seated. It was swollen and oppressed +with pain, and he felt as if some huge substance lay upon his chest. +His mouth being dry and clogged, and his thirst burning and +unquenchable, he drank so much water that his body was greatly +swollen. Towards evening, his ideas became confused and he grew +delirious. He afterwards described to his brother the horrible +phantoms that disturbed him whilst in this state, and the delicious +emotion that ran through his whole frame, when the dreadful vision +had passed away. Tears gushed from his eyes, a profuse perspiration, +which had been so long checked, gave him immediate relief, and from +that moment his health began to improve. + +During this illness of John Lander, the natives made a most hideous +noise by singing and drumming on the celebration of their fetish. +Richard went out with the hope of inducing them to be quiet, but they +only laughed at him, and annoyed them the more; having no compassion +whatever for the sufferings of a white man, and if they can mortify +him by any means, they consider it a praiseworthy deed. This day at +noon, the sun stood at 99 degrees of Fahrenheit. + +Early on Saturday the 24th, a hammock was prepared for John Lander, +he being too weak to ride on horseback; and shortly wards they +quitted the town of Accadoo, in much better spirits, than +circumstances had led them to expect. The hammock-men found their +burden rather troublesome, nevertheless they travelled at a pretty +quick pace, and between eight and nine o'clock, halted at a pleasant +and comfortable village called Etudy. The chief sent them a fowl and +four hundred kowries; but they stopped only to take a slight +refreshment, and to pay their respects. They then proceeded through +large plantations of cotton, indigo, Indian corn, and yams, and over +stony fields, till between ten and eleven, when they entered the town +of Chouchou. They were almost immediately introduced to the chief, +and from him into a ruinous hut, in a more filthy state than can be +imagined. No pigstye was ever half so bad. Its late occupier had +incurred the displeasure and hatred of the chief, because he happened +to be very rich, and rather than pay a heavy fine, he ran away and +joined his former enemies, and this partly accounted for the +destitution and wretchedness around them. + +Since leaving Jenna they met an incredible number of persons visited +with the loss of one eye. They assigned no other reason for their +misfortune, than the heat and glare of the rays of the sun. + +During the whole of this night it rained most heavily; but their hut, +although of the very worst description, had a pretty good thatched +roof, and sheltered them better than they could have expected. There +are seasons and periods in our life-time, in which we feel a happy +complacency of temper and an inward satisfaction, cheerfulness, and +joy, for which we cannot very well account, but which constrain us to +be at peace with ourselves and our neighbours, and in love with all +the works of God. In this truly enviable frame of mind, Richard +Lander says he awoke on this morning, to proceed onwards on +horseback. It was a morning, which was fairly entitled to the epithet +of incense breathing; for the variety of sweet-smelling perfumes, +which exhaled after the rain, from forest flowers and flowering +shrubs, was delicious and almost overpowering. The scenery which +gratified their eyes on this day, was more interesting and lovely, +than any they had heretofore beheld. The path circled round a +magnificent, cultivated valley, hemmed in on almost every side with +mountains of granite of the most grotesque and irregular shapes, the +summits of which were covered with stunted trees, and the hollows in +their slopes occupied by clusters of huts, whose inmates had fled +thither as a place of security against the ravages of the _warmen_ +who infest the plains. A number of strange birds resorted to this +valley, many of whose notes were rich, full, and melodious, while +others were harsh and disagreeable, but, generally speaking, the +plumage was various, splendid, and beautiful. The modest partridge +appeared in company with the magnificent balearic crane, with his +regal crest, and delicate humming birds hopped from twig to twig, +with others of an unknown species; some of them were of a dark, +shining green; some had red silky wings and purple bodies; some were +variegated with stripes of crimson and gold, and these chirped and +warbled from among the thick foliage of the trees. In the +contemplation of such beautiful objects as these, all so playful and +so happy, or the more sublime ones of dark waving forests, plains of +vast extent, or stupendous mountains, that gave the mind the most +sensible emotions of delight and grandeur, leading it insensibly + +"To look from nature up to nature's God." + +Speaking on these subjects, Lander very feelingly expresses himself, +"For myself," he says, "I am passionately fond of them, and have +regretted a thousand times, that my ignorance incapacitated me from +giving a proper representation of them, or describing the simplest +flower that adorns the plains, or the smallest insect that sparkles +in the air. This consideration gives me at times many unhappy +reflections, although my defective education arose from circumstances +over which my boyhood had no control." + +Having passed through the immense valley already mentioned, they had +not travelled far before they arrived and halted at a large village +called Tudibu; here they rested a while, and then continuing their +journey for two hours over even ground between high hills, they rode +into the town of Gwen-dekki, in which they purposed passing the +night. The chief was either very poor or very ill natured, for the +only thing he sent them was a little boiled yam, with a mess of +unpalatable gravy, which he would not have given, if he had not +expected ten times its value in return. Divine service, it being +Sunday, was performed in the course of the day, and this was a duty, +which to persons in their situation, was found inconceivably +pleasant. It rendered them happy and resigned in the midst or their +afflictions and privations; reposing their confidence in the +all-protecting arm of that beneficent Being, who is the author and +disposer of their destinies, and in whom alone, thus widely separated +as they were from home, and kindred and civilization, the solitary +wanderer can place his trust. + +On the morning of Monday the 26th April, a thick mist obscured the +horizon, and hid in deep shade the mountains and the hills; every +object indeed was invisible, with the exception of the pathway and +the trees growing on each side, which they could hardly distinguish +as they passed along. It continued hazy for two hours after leaving +Gwen-dekki, when the mist dispersed and the atmosphere became clear. +Preparatory to ascending a steep granite hill, they halted to refresh +their horses under the branches of a high spreading tree, near a town +called Eco. Here they were visited by several of the inhabitants, +who, as soon as they were informed of their arrival, came flocking to +the spot. They formed themselves into a line to pay their respects, +and entreated them to wait a little for the arrival of their chief, +who was momentarily expected. But after staying as long as they +conveniently could, and no chief appearing, they mounted their beasts +and began the toilsome ascent. On attaining the summit of the hill, +the _coup d'oeil_ was magnificent indeed, and the fog having been +dispersed by the sun, the eye was enabled to range over an extensive +horizon, bounded by hills and mountains of wonderful shapes. Some of +them bore a very striking resemblance to the Table mountain at the +Cape of Good Hope, and another was not unlike the Lion's Head and +Rump of the same place. Their course was north-east, and those two +mountains bore due west from them. There was no continued range of +hills, but numbers of single unconnected ones, with extensive valleys +between them. In some places, several were piled behind each, and +those most distant from them appeared like dark indistinct clouds. +Nothing could surpass the singularity, and it may be added the +sublimity of the whole view from the top of the granite hill which +they had ascended, and they contemplated it silence for a few +seconds, with emotions of astonishment and rapture. + +Descending the hill, they continued their journey over a noble plain, +watered with springs and rivulets, and in the afternoon entered Dufo, +a most extensive and populous town. The inhabitants appeared to be +industrious and very opulent, as far as regarded the number and +variety of their domestic animals, having abundance of sheep, goats, +swine, pigeons, and poultry, amongst the latter of which were +observed for the first time, turkeys and guinea-fowl. They had +likewise horses and bullocks. The chief did not make his appearance +for a long time, but as soon as he had introduced himself, he desired +them to follow him into a cleanly swept square, where was the house +which he intended them to occupy. Presently after his departure, he +sent them a quantity of yams, a basket of ripe bananas, and a +calabash of eggs, which they soon discovered to be good for nothing, +although sand had been mixed with them, that they might feel heavier +than they really were. + +They were on this evening visited by four Burgoo traders, who +informed them that they had crossed the Niger at Inguazhilligie, not +more than fourteen days ago, and that although the rains had +commenced, the river had as yet received no great addition to its +waters. + +The travellers were early on horseback, on the morning of the +27th, and preceded by the carriers of their luggage, they rode out +of the town of Dufo. The country, indeed, appeared inferior, as +to the boldness and beauty of its scenery, to that which they had +traversed on the preceding day but still it possessed features of no +common interest. Another table mountain was observed to the +left of their path in the course of the morning, as well as another +lion's head and rump. Ponderous masses of granite rock overhung +the road way; they were almost black, and seemed to have been +washed by the rains of a thousand years; in many of them were +deep and gloomy caverns, which, were they in Cornwall instead +of in central Africa, they would be selected by some novel-monger, +as the scene of some dark and mysterious murder, or as the +habitation of a gang of banditti, or perhaps of the ghost of some +damsel, who might have deliberately knocked her brains out against +some rocky protuberance, on account of a faithless lover. They were +followed a long while by hundreds of the natives, and who annoyed +them so much by their noises and curiosity, that they were compelled +to resort to violent measures to drive them away; but this was a line +of conduct rarely adopted towards them, and never without extreme +reluctance. They were at length frightened away, and they saw them no +more. About eight miles from Dufo, they arrived at a large straggling +village, called Elokba, where they halted a little, as the path had +been so stony, rugged, and irregular, that a few minutes rest was +absolutely necessary to recruit themselves. From this place the road +became excellent, not at all inferior to a drive round a nobleman's +park in England, and continued to be good till they came in sight of +a capacious walled town, called Chaadoo, which they entered about +mid-day. Outside the walls is a small Fellata village, the huts of +which are constructed in the circular or _coozie_ form. Its +inhabitants employ themselves solely in the breeding of cattle, an +occupation to which they are passionately addicted. They are simple +in their manners, and extremely neat in their dress and appearance. + +Not long after their arrival, three or four young Fellata +shepherdesses from the village came to pay their respects to the +travellers, who felt much pleased with their society, for they were +extremely well-behaved and intelligent; they remained, however, a +very short time, their customary avocation not permitting a longer +stay. The hair of these females was braided in a style peculiarly +tasteful and becoming, and the contour of their oval faces was far +from disagreeable. Their manners also were innocent and playful; the +imaginary shepherdesses of our pastorals were not more modest, +artless, and engaging in description, than these were in reality; +they left behind them an impression very favourable, both as regards +their morals, _naiveté_, and rustic simplicity. + +On the road from Dufo, Richard Lander unthinkingly shot a crane, +which fell in an adjoining field. The report of his gun brought out a +number of natives from "the bush," who being in continual dread of an +attack from "the war men of the path," imagined it to be a signal of +one of these marauders. They were all armed like their countrymen +with bows and arrows, and with a threatening aspect would have lodged +a few shafts in the person of Richard Lander, had it not been for the +timely interference of one of their Jenna messengers, who fortunately +happened to be with him at the time, and who gave an immediate and +satisfactory explanation. The head of the party then sought for and +picked up the bird, but Richard took it from him, after he had +rewarded him liberally for his trouble. The man, however, was neither +satisfied nor pleased, but roughly demanded the bird as his own, +because it had fallen on his land. As there were no game laws here, +Richard Lander would not admit his claim, and was retiring, when the +fellow begged with much importunity that the head and legs of the +animal, at least, might be given him to make a fetish of. This was +likewise objected to, at which the man was out of all patience, and +went off foaming with passion. In the evening, the crane was dressed +for supper, and a similar request was made by a eunuch from Katunga, +who being a good-natured fellow, his wish was readily complied with. +The chief of Chaadoo, however, presently sent a messenger to request +the said precious head and legs, and to him they were finally +committed by the disappointed eunuch, who could hardly forbear +weeping on the occasion; these relics are considered extremely +valuable as a charm. + +The chief sent them a goat, a quantity of bananas, a dish of pounded +or rather mashed yam with gravy, and a large basket of _caffas_. +These are a kind of pudding, made into little round balls from +bruised Indian corn, which is first boiled to the consistence of +thick paste. From being made entirely of coarse flour and water, they +have an insipid taste when new, but when kept for a day or two, they +become sour, and in this state are eaten by the natives. There are +several deep wells in the town, but most of them are dried up, so +that water is exceedingly scarce, and it is sold in the market-place +to the inhabitants. They were daily accosted on the road with such +salutations as these, "I hope you go on well on the path," "success +to the king's work," "God bless you white men," "a blessing on your +return, &c." + +They remained the whole of the 28th at Chaadoo, in order to give the +carriers with the luggage, time to come up with them, having been +unavoidably detained by the roughness and unevenness of the road from +Dufo to Elokba. The Katunga eunuch already mentioned, was sent by the +king of that place to receive the customary tribute of the governors +of various towns on the road between Katunga and Jenna. This man was +treated with much respect both by the governor of Chaadoo and his +people, who prostrated themselves to the eunuch, before addressing +him. + +Being in want of money, they sent some needles this morning to the +market to sell. It is a custom in Youriba, that after a buyer has +agreed to pay a certain sum for an article, he retracts his +expression, and affirms that he only promised to give about half the +sum demanded. This occasioned violent altercations between the +Landers' people and the natives, but it is an established custom, +from which there is no appeal. + +The mother of the governor was buried this afternoon, at a +neighbouring village, and the funeral was attended by all his wives +or women as mourners. They were dressed in their holiday attire and +looked tolerably smart. The mourners exhibited no signs of grief +whatever, on the contrary, they were as lively as a wedding party; +attended by a drummer, they passed through their yard on their return +to the governor's house, which was only a few steps distant, and they +kept up singing and dancing during the whole of the day, to the noise +of the drum. + +The inhabitants of the town have immense numbers of sheep, goats, +pigs, and poultry, but bullocks are in the possession of Fellatas +alone. It was believed, that the natives have not a single animal of +that description. Like many other places, the market was not held +here till the heat and toil of the day are over, and buyers seldom +resort to it, till eight o'clock in the evening. + +On the morning of the 29th April, it commencing raining at a very +early hour, and continued with uncommon violence, till between ten +and eleven o'clock, when it suddenly ceased, and they quitted +Chaadoo. Before their departure, however, the credulous governor, who +in common with his people, imagine that white men possess an +influence over the elements, paid them a visit with a calabash of +honey as a present, to thank them he said, for the rain that had +fallen, of which the country was greatly in want, and invoked +blessings on them. The kindness of this good old man was remarkable; +he never seemed weary of obliging them, regretted his inability to do +more, and solicited them very pressingly to remain with him another +day. + +They traversed a mountainous country intersected with streams of +excellent water, and at noon entered a small, but pleasant +picturesque village, which was ornamented with noble and shady trees. +Here they waited a very short time, and continuing their route, +arrived towards evening at a capacious walled town, called _Row_, +wherein they passed the night. In many places, the wall, if it be +deserving the name, was no more than twelve or fourteen inches from +the ground, and the moat was of similar dimensions. The yard to which +they were conducted, shortly after their arrival, was within three or +four others, and so intricate were the passages leading to it, that +after a stranger gets in, he would be sadly puzzled to find his way +out again without a guide. Nevertheless, this was no security against +interruption, for the yard was speedily invaded by five or six +hundred individuals, who had been induced to visit them from +curiosity. As usual, they annoyed the travellers for a long time to +the best of their ability, till they completely wearied them out by +their importunity and forwardness. They then hung sheets round the +door-way of their dwelling, and laid down on their mats; and then +only, the natives began to disperse, and left them at their ease. + +The governor of the town was a morose, surly, and ill-natured man. +He sent them only a few bananas, and a calabash of eggs, which were +all stale and unfit to be eaten, so that some of their people were +obliged to go supperless to bed. The governor ascribed the badness of +his fare to extreme poverty, yet his vanity exacted from their Jenna +messengers the most abject method of salutation, with which they were +acquainted. These men walked backwards from him several yards, to +throw dirt on their heads, and with the dust and filth still clinging +to their hair, they were compelled to address the chief with their +faces to the ground. The apartment of the travellers unfortunately +communicated with his, and the restless tongues of his numerous wives +prevented either of the Landers from dosing their eyes long after +sunset. In the centre of their yard grew a tree, round which several +stakes were driven into the ground. This tree was a fetish tree, and +the stakes also fetish, and therefore a strong injunction was issued +not to tie the horses to either of them. Calabashes, common articles +of earthenware, and even feathers, egg-shells, and the bones of +animals; indeed any kind of inanimate substance is made fetish by the +credulous, stupid natives, and like the horse-shoe, which is still +nailed to the door of the more superstitious of English peasantry, +these fetishes are supposed to preserve them from ghosts and evil +spirits. It is sacrilege to touch them, and to ridicule them, would +be dangerous. + +It was between seven and eight o'clock of the 30th April, before +carriers could be procured, and every thing got in readiness for +their departure. The sun was excessively hot, and the sky brilliantly +clear. They crossed two or three rivulets of cool delicious water, as +they had done on the preceding day, and then passed through an +insignificant village, whose chief sent them a calabash of bruised +corn, mixed with water, to drink. At noon, they arrived at the foot +of a very elevated hill, and perceived a town perched on its summit, +and knew it to be the same to which they had been directed. They +dismounted, and after a laborious ascent, which occupied them three +quarters of an hour, at length reached the top. Stones and blocks of +granite interrupted their path, so that it became a very difficult +matter to force the horses along before them; they fell repeatedly, +but without materially injuring themselves. + +The name of the town was Chekki; their arrival was rather unexpected, +and therefore the governor was not prepared to receive them, and they +sat down under a tree, until they were tired of waiting. At length, a +man came to conduct them to his residence, which was but a little way +from the tree, under which they were reposing, when a tumultuous rush +was made by the inhabitants to precede them into the yard, and +notwithstanding the presence of their chief, they so surrounded the +travelling party as to prevent a particle of fresh air from reaching +them. The governor received them with bluntness, but not unkindly, +though without much demonstration of good-will. While in his yard, he +regaled them with water, and afterwards sent them a large calabash of +_foorah_ sweetened with honey to their lodgings, which did not taste +unlike thick gruel or _burgoo_, as it is termed in Scotland. It is +made of a corn called goorah, is very palatable, and is in general +use with the natives of these parts. A quantity of bananas from the +chief soon followed the foorah, and something more substantial than +either, was promised them. + +It was observed to be a general practice here, as well as in every +other town through which the Landers passed, for children until the +age of seven years to go naked, with perhaps a string of kowries tied +round the loins, and clumsy bracelets, either of brass or tin +enclosing the wrist. Grown-up people, however, dress somewhat neatly, +if not gracefully; the men wear a cap, tobe and trousers, mostly +blue, and the women wear a large loose cotton cloth, which is thrown +over the left shoulder, and comes down mantling below the knee. The +right arm and feet alone are bare. People of both sexes are +infinitely more grave and serious in their manners, than those nearer +the coast, nor was the loud vacant laugh so prevalent, as at the +commencement of their journey. + +They quitted Chekki on the 1st of May, and rode on pleasantly until, +at the expiration of four hours, they arrived at Coosoo, a large and +important town. A Fellata hamlet stands near it, the inhabitants of +which, subsist by following pastoral occupations alone. They are much +esteemed by the Youribans, who behave to them without suspicion or +reserve. + +Shortly after their arrival, a man stole a sword from one of the +attendants on the travellers; he was pursued to the chief, and +asserted that he had found it; as he laid the weapon at his feet. The +sword was restored to them by the governor, but without the slightest +allusion being made to the means by which he obtained it. A company +or _goffle_ of merchants from Hano, were at this time in the town, +who had travelled thus far on their way to Gonga, which is the Selga +of Cape Coast Castle and Accra. Their merchandise consists chiefly of +elephants' teeth, trona, rock salt, and country cloths. This, the +Landers were told, is a new route, the road formerly taken being +considered unsafe, on account of private broils and disturbances +amongst the natives. The goffle consisted of more than four hundred +men; but a company of merchants that passed through the town ten days +previously, amounted to twice that number. Other merchants were also +in the town, and were to leave on the morrow on their way to Yaoorie, +to which place they were destined. + +The palm tree became scarce as they advanced into the country, and, +consequently, the oil obtained hereabouts, is only in very small +quantities. But nature, ever bountiful, supplies its place with the +mi-cadania or butter tree, which yields abundance of a kind of +vegetable marrow, pleasant to the taste, and highly esteemed by the +natives. It is used for lights and other domestic purposes. The tree +from which it is obtained, is not much unlike our oak in appearance, +and the nut it produces is enveloped in an agreeable pulpy substance. +The kernel of this nut is about the size of our chestnut. It is +exposed in the sun to dry, after which it is pounded very fine and +boiled in water. The oily particles which it contains, soon float on +the surface; when cool, they are skimmed off, and then made into +little cakes for use, without any further preparation. Two +individuals appeared before the chief this day, in consequence of an +accusation of theft that had been made against them. The method +adopted of proving the guilt or innocence of the parties, was, by +compelling them to swallow the fetish water. + +In the evening, the travellers received a fat goat, a basket of +caffas, a calabash of bananas, a vast quantity of yams, and a bowl of +milk from the governor. He appeared to be a sober, kind, and +benevolent old man, and generally beloved by his people. To the +Landers, he was particularly attentive and obliging. He informed +them, that the common path to Katunga was unsafe, in consequence of a +serious quarrel between the inhabitants of Coosoo, and those of a +neighbouring town. "Therefore," said he, "I entreat you to remain +here until to-morrow, in order that I may make arrangements to send +you by a different road." This intelligence was not very agreeable to +the Landers, but they were convinced of its importance, and therefore +thankfully accepted the chiefs offer. + +The market which was held this evening in the town, had a most +imposing and brilliant appearance, from the immense of lamps used by +the trades-people. + +Their visitors, who continued with them until late in the evening, +were innumerable, and the noise of the women's tongues was as loud +and disagreeable as ever. For some time nothing could quiet them: +threats and entreaties were disregarded or laughed at, till at last, +they were compelled to resort to the childish expedient of spurting +water in their faces from a large syringe. On seeing and feeling the +effects of this fearful instrument, they became alarmed and ran away. + +On the following day, May 2nd, a fetish priest came to see them, and +was about to treat them with the usual harangue of his profession, +but they contrived to put a stop to it, by bribing him with a few +needles. Nothing particular was observed in this fellow's ornaments +or dress, but his person presented a strange and singular appearance. +The colour of his skin was like that of whitish brown paper; his +eyebrows and eyelashes were of a silvery whiteness, and his eyes of a +bright blue, notwithstanding which, the negro features were strongly +and distinctly marked on his countenance. The man's parents were both +natives, and quite black, and it was found impossible to ascertain +the reason of this extraordinary deviation from the common laws of +nature. + +They received an abundance of kindness from the good old chief of +this place, and his endeavours to make them comfortable were imitated +by many of the more respectable inhabitants. + +The path recommended by the friendly chief of Coosoo, lay due east +from the town, and they pursued their journey on it, on the morning +of the 3rd of May. Robbers were stated to be lurking about, and +therefore they conceived it prudent, if not absolutely necessary, to +take every precaution for the safety of the mission, they, therefore, +loaded their own guns and pistols, and armed all their men with +swords and muskets. Their Jenna messengers being unacquainted with +the new route, the governor of Coosoo had furnished them with two +armed foot guides, whose weapons were bows and arrows, besides a +horseman, armed at all points, to bring up the rear of the party. +With all these warlike preparations and equipments, a few harmless +women, who were terrified at the appearance of the travellers, were +the only individuals whom they met with on the path during a ride of +two hours, which brought them to a town called Acboro. The town +itself was very small, but its dilapidated walls, which enclose an +immense extent of ground, would lead the observer to suppose, that it +was formerly of much greater magnitude. Within the walls, were three +granite hills, two on one side, and the other on the opposite side of +the town. All their bases were of solid stone, but their summits +consisted of loose blocks, from the interstices of which, trees and +stunted vegetation shot forth. Besides these hills, immense masses of +granite rock were seen piled upon each other in different parts. On +the whole, Acboro was one of the wildest and most venerable looking +places that the human mind could conceive; the habitations of the +people alone, lessening that romantic and pleasing effect, which a +first sight of it produces. + +Shortly after their arrival, the governor sent them a sucking pig and +some other presents, and seemed highly pleased that circumstances had +thrown them in his way. "White men do nothing but good," said he, +"and I will pray that God may bless you, and send more of your +countrymen to Youriba." + +Instead of the people running and scrambling to see them, the +good-natured ruler of this place excluded the mass of them from +visiting their yard, and came very civilly to ask their permission +for a few of his friends to look at them. John Lander was too weak +and indisposed to gratify their curiosity by rising from his couch, +so his brother went out to exhibit his person, and suffered himself +to be examined rather minutely, which must have had a very ludicrous +effect, to see the European undergoing an examination by a posse of +black inquisitors, just as if he had been a horse or a bullock at +Smithfield. They, however, separated tolerably well pleased with each +other. + +On May the 4th, three men, inhabitants of Acboro, were captured by a +gang of restless, marauding scoundrels, who are denominated here, as +elsewhere, "War-men of the path," but who are, in reality, nothing +more nor less, than highway robbers. They subsist solely by pillage +and rapine, and waylaying their countrymen. The late governor of +Acboro was deposed and driven from the town by his own people, for +his indifference to their interest, and the wanton cruelty, with +which he treated them and their children. At different times he +seized several individuals of both sexes, and sold them as slaves, +without assigning any cause for the act. This drew on him the +vengeance of the friends and relatives of the sufferers, who +prevailed on the town's people to arise with them and punish the +aggressor. The latter soon found that his party were too weak to +withstand the attacks of the exasperated populace, and he fled to a +remote village, where he was residing at the time of the arrival of +the Landers. The inhabitants of Acboro immediately elected a more +humane and benevolent governor in his stead. + +They rose this morning at an early hour, and John Lander finding +himself sufficiently recovered to ride on horseback, they bade +farewell to the governor of Acboro, and quitted the town by sunrise, +taking care to use the same precaution against robbers as on the +preceding day. In an hour and three quarters, they entered an open +and delightful village called Lazipa. An assemblage of Fellata huts +stood near it, by which their beautiful cattle were grazing. Many of +the bullocks were as white as snow, others were spotted like a +leopard's skin, and others again were dotted with red and black on a +white ground. A Fellata girl presented them with a bowl of new milk, +which was very agreeable and refreshing, and after drinking it, they +bade adieu to the Fellatas and their cattle for ever. + +They had not travelled a great way from Lazipa, before they had to +cross a large morass, on the borders of which a very large and +handsome species of water-lily flourished in great perfection. They +crossed this morass without difficulty or trouble, and with the same +facility also two small streams, which intersected the road. At nine +A.M., they arrived at Cootoo, which like Lazipa is an open village, +but the former is by far the most extensive of the two. A person, who +may have travelled from Penzance in Cornwall to the Land's End, and +observed the nature of the soil, and the blocks of granite which are +scattered over its surface, will have a very good idea of the country +between Acboro and Cootoo, only that in the latter, it is much more +woody. + +After leaving Cootoo, however, the aspect of the surrounding scenery +speedily changed, and became infinitely more pleasing. The soil was +more rich and deeper; patches of verdure and cultivated land were +more frequent, the latter being neatly fenced; fine handsome trees, +with their spreading branches and thick foliage, embellished the +country in every direction, and extended to the eastern horizon. It +might have been supposed that these trees had been carefully planted +by the hand of man, for they grew at equal distances from each other, +and none seemed to interfere with the order, beauty, and regularity +of its neighbour. The soil between them was covered with a soft green +turf, which rendered the whole view remarkably pleasant. It was over +this delightful landscape that they travelled; the morning was cooled +by a refreshing south-east wind, and the travellers, which is not +often the case, were both on good terms with themselves, and +gratified by everything around them. At length, they came in sight of +numerous herds of fine cattle, attended by little boys, and shortly +afterwards, they arrived at a clean and neat Fellata village, the +inhabitants of which were employed in feeding calves, and other +occupations connected with an African farm. They then crossed a +small stream, and entered a town of prodigious extent, called Bòhoo, +which was fortified with a triple wall and moats. Without being +exposed to the customary tiresome formalities, they were immediately +conducted to the residence of the governor. The usual conversation +passed between them, and after they had returned to their hut, a +bullock was sent them, with yams, bananas, and a huge calabash of new +milk, which did not contain less than six gallons, and the travellers +sat down to enjoy themselves in perfect good humour. + +In the afternoon, a message was delivered to them, signifying that +the governor's head minister would be very glad to see them, and +would thank them to visit him in the course of the day. John Lander, +however, having experienced a relapse, his sufferings were such as to +prevent him leaving the hut, and his brother was, therefore, obliged +to go alone. After a pleasant walk of about two miles, he arrived at +the habitation of the minister, by whom he was very kindly received. +The compliments of the day only were exchanged between them, and the +numerous wives, and large family of the master of the house, who are +on these occasions generally exhibited to a stranger, having amply +gratified their curiosity by an examination of his person, the +interview terminated and he presently returned to his abode, after +promising to visit the minister again on the following day. + +Bòhoo lies north-east of Acboro, and is built on the slope of a very +gentle and fertile hill, at whose base flows a stream of milk-white +water, and behind which is the Fellata hamlet already mentioned. Its +immense triple wall is little short of twenty miles in circuit; but +besides huts and gardens, it encloses a vast number of acres of +excellent meadow land, in which bullocks, sheep, and goats feed +indiscriminately. By the hasty view obtained of it, the town in some +degree resembled Kano, but there is no large swamp like that which +intersects the latter city. Bòhoo was formerly the metropolis of +Youriba, but about half a century ago, the reigning prince preferring +the plain at Katunga, the seat of government was transferred there, +since which Bòhoo has materially declined in wealth, population, and +consequence, although it is still considered a place of great +importance, and the second town in the kingdom. It is bounded on all +sides by hills of gradual ascent, which are prettily wooded, and +commands an extensive horizon. The land in the vicinity of the town +presents a most inviting appearance, by no means inferior to any part +of England in the most favourable season of the year. It appears to +be duly appreciated by the Fellatas, so great a number of whom reside +with their flocks in different parts, that the minister candidly +declared he could not give any information of their amount. These +foreigners sell their milk, butter, and cheese in the market at a +reasonable rate. The latter is made into little cakes about an inch +square, and when fried in butter is very palatable. It is of the +consistence and appearance of the white of an egg, boiled hard. + +Agreeably to the promise which Richard Lander made to the chief, he +left his brother to the care of old Pascoe and his wife, and hastened +to pay his respects to the chief's head man or minister. It appears +that this man was placed in his present situation by the king of +Katunga, as a kind of spy on the actions of the governor, who can do +nothing of a public nature, without in the first place consulting +him, and obtaining his consent to the measure. Yet he conducted +himself so well in his disagreeable office, that he won the good +will, not only of the governor of the town, but also its inhabitants. +A kind of rivalry existed between the minister and his master, but +then it was a rivalry in good and not in bad actions. Hearing that +the governor had sent the travellers a bullock, and something +besides, he presented Richard Lander with a similar one, and a large +calabash of _Pitto_ (country beer,) which Lander distributed amongst +those who had accompanied him. A bottle of honey completed the list +of presents, and they were forthwith forwarded to their habitation, +but Richard Lander remained a considerable time afterwards with the +chief. He was filled with amazement at the formation and ticking of +Lander's watch, which he gazed on and listened to with transport. The +spurs which he wore, also excited his eager curiosity, and he +examined them with the greatest attention. He hoped, he said, that +God would bless them both, and that they had his best wishes for +their safety. He remarked further, that white men worshipped the +great God alone, and so did black men also, and that every blessing +of life was derived from that source. + +On the return of Richard, he found his brother extremely ill, he had +been so faint and sick during his absence, that his recovery seemed +doubtful, but in a few hours afterwards he became better. In the +afternoon they sent to the governor and the minister, who had behaved +so handsomely to them, three yards of fine red cloth, a common +looking-glass, tobacco pipe, a pair of scissors, snuffbox, and a +large clasp knife. The tobacco pipe was much admired, but the red +cloth was the most valued; with the whole, however, they were both +perfectly well pleased, and were extravagant in their expressions of +gratitude. + +One of the bullocks was slaughtered this morning, and about two +thirds of it distributed by the governor and his chief man to the +poor in the town; the remainder of the carcass was divided equally +amongst the attendants of the travellers, who appeared by no means +anxious to leave the place, while their present, unusually good fare, +was to be had. + +John Lander was now so far recovered as to excite a hope that they +might be able to proceed on their journey, on the following day. His +recovery was, however, considerably retarded by the continual noises +to which he was subject. Perhaps, of all evils that can afflict a +sick person, noises of any kind are the greatest. In Africa, whether +a person be ill or well, it is exactly the same, nothing like peace +or quiet is any where to be found; independently of the continual +fluttering of pigeons, which roosted close to their ears, the +bleating of sheep and goats, and the barking of numerous half-starved +dogs, they were still more seriously annoyed by the incessant clatter +of women's tongues, which pursued them every where, and which it was +believed nothing less than sickness or death on their part could +eventually silence. The shrillness of their voices drowns the +bleating of the sheep, and the yellings of the canine race; and +notwithstanding all the exertions of Richard Lander, seconded by +those of their attendants, their noise in this town considerably +retarded the recovery of his brother. A person in England might be +inclined to think lightly of this matter, but it is indeed a +grievance, which can ill be borne by an invalid languishing under a +wasting disease, and who has equally as much need of rest and silence +as of medicine. Besides those grievances, the shouts of the people +outside the yard, and the perpetual squalling of children within it, +the buzzing of beetles and drones, the continual attacks of +mosquitoes and innumerable flies, form a host of irritating evils, to +which a sick person is exposed, and to which he is obliged patiently +to submit, until by a relief from his disorder, he is obliged to +stand upon his legs, and once more take his own part. But even then +noises assail his ear, and he does not enjoy the happiness of perfect +silence unless he enters a grove or forest. + +They were this morning, visited by a party of Fellatas of both sexes. +They differed but little either in colour or feature from the +original natives of the soil. In dress and ornaments, however, there +was a slight distinction between them. They displayed more taste in +their apparel, and wore a greater number of ornaments round the neck +and wrists; they paid also great attention to their hair, which the +women plait with astonishing ingenuity. Like that of the young woman, +whom they met at Jenna, their heads exactly resembled a dragoon's +helmet. Their hair was much longer of course than that of the negro, +which enables the Fallatas to weave it on both sides of the head +into a kind of _queue_, which passing over each cheek is tied under +the chin. + +Another company of Fellatas came to them in the evening, for they had +never beheld a white man, and curiosity had led them to their +habitation. They brought with them a present of a little thick milk, +of which they begged the travellers' acceptance, and then went away +highly gratified with the interview. The behaviour of the whole of +them was extremely reserved and respectful; nothing in the persons of +the travellers excited their merriment, on the contrary, they seemed +silently to admire their dress and complexion, and having examined +them well at a distance, seemed grateful for the treat. + +In the mean time, the kindness and generosity of the governor of +Bòhoo continued unabated; instead of diminishing, it seemed to +strengthen; he literally inundated them with milk, and he was equally +lavish with other things. It gave them unmixed pleasure to meet with +so much native politeness and attention from a quarter, where they +the least expected it, and at a time also, when it was the most +required. + +After they had retired to rest, a Fellata woman came to their +dwelling, bringing with her a number of eggs of the guinea-hen, and a +large bowl of milk fresh from the cow, as a return for a few needles +they had given her in the afternoon. This circumstance is mentioned +merely to show the difference between the Fellatas and the +Youribeans, in point of gratitude for favours which they may have +received. The latter are very seldom grateful, and never acknowledge +gratitude as a virtue. The indifference, unconcern, and even +contempt, which they often evinced on receiving the presents which +the Landers made them, was a proof of this, and with a very few +exceptions, they never observed a Youribean to be sincerely thankful +for any thing. + +On the following morning, John Lander was able to sit on horseback, +and as they were on the point of taking their departure, the governor +came out to bid them farewell, and presented them with two thousand +kowries to assist them on their journey. + +Two hours after leaving Bòhoo, they passed through an agreeable, +thinly inhabited village called Mallo, and in somewhat less than an +hour after, arrived at Jaguta, a large and compact town, fortified by +a neater and more substantially built wall than any they had yet +seen. + +Jaguta lies E. S. E. of Bòhoo, from which it is distant, as nearly as +the Landers could guess, from twelve to thirteen miles. In the course +of the journey, they met a party of Nouffie traders from Coulfo, with +asses carrying trona for the Gonja market. Among them, were two +women, very neatly clad in their native costume, with clean white +tobes outside their other apparel, resembling as nearly as possible +the _chemise_ of European ladies. These asses were the first beasts +they had observed employed in carrying burdens, for hitherto, people +of both sexes and of all ages, especially women and female children, +had performed those laborious duties. + +The governor of Jaguta came to apologize in the evening, for not +having attended them the greater part of the day, on the plea that he +had been engaged in the country with his people, in making a fetish +for the prosperity of the king of Katunga. The return of the governor +and his procession to the town, was announced by a flourish of drums, +fifes, &c., with the usual accompaniments of singing and dancing. The +musicians performed before him, for some time, in a yard contiguous +to that where the Landers resided, and their ears were stunned for +the remainder of the night, by a combination of the most barbarous +sounds in the world. + +They were here daily assured that the path was rendered exceedingly +dangerous by banditti, and the governor of Jaguta endeavoured with a +good deal of earnestness, to persuade them that their goods would not +be respected by them. It will, however, scarcely be believed, that +this universal dread originates from a few Borgoo desperadoes, who, +although only armed with powder and a few broken muskets, can put a +whole legion of the timid natives to flight. The inhabitants of the +town kept firing the whole of the evening, to deter their formidable +foe from scaling the wall and taking possession of their town. + +On the night of Saturday May 8th, they were visited by thunder +storms, from which, however, they did not receive any great +annoyance. The natives as usual imputed the seasonable weather to +their agency alone, and in consequence, their arrival at many places +was hailed with transport, as the most fortunate thing that could +have happened. + +Extraordinary preparations were made by the governor of Jaguta, to +ensure the safety of the travellers on the dreaded pathway; and a +horseman armed with sword and spear, in company with four foot +soldiers, who were equipped with bows, and several huge quivers full +of arrows, were in readiness to offer them their protection. The +horseman preceded the party, and played off a variety of antics to +the great amusement of the Landers. He seemed not a little satisfied +with himself; he flourished his naked sword over his head; brandished +his spear; made his horse curvet and bound, and gallop alternately; +and his dress being extremely grotesque, besides being old and torn, +gave him an appearance not unlike that of a bundle of rags flying +through the air. But with all this display of heroism and activity, +the man would have fled with terror from his own shadow by moonlight, +and it was really regretted by the travellers, that a few defenceless +women were the only individuals that crossed their path to put his +courage to the test, the formidable "war men" not being at that time +in that part of the country. + +Their journey this day was vexatiously short, not having exceeded +four miles, for it was utterly beyond the power of either of the +Landers to persuade the superstitious natives, who conform only to +their fetish in these matters, that the robbers would be afraid even +to think of attacking white men. They halted at a small town called +Shea, which was defended by a wall. It appeared to possess a numerous +population, if any opinion could be formed from the vast number of +individuals that gathered round them, immediately on their entrance +through the gateway. A stranger, however, cannot give anything like a +correct estimate of the population of any inhabited place, in this +part of Africa, for as he can only judge of it by the number of +court-yards a town or village may contain; and as the one court yard +there may be residing at least a hundred people, and in the one +adjacent to it, perhaps not more than six or seven, the difficulty +will be immediately perceived. Generally speaking, the description of +one town in Youriba, would answer for the whole. Cleanliness and +order and establish the superiority of one place over another, which +may likewise have the advantages of a rich soil, a neighbourhood, and +be ornamented with fine spreading and shady trees; but the form of +the houses and squares is every-where the same; irregular and badly +built clay walls, ragged looking thatched roofs, and floors of mud +polished with cow-dung, form the habitations of the chief part of the +natives of Youriba, compared topmost of which, a common English barn +is a palace. The only difference between the residence of a chief and +those of his subjects, lies in the number and not in the superiority +of his court yards, and these are for the most part tenanted by women +and slaves, together with flocks of sheep and goats, and abundance of +pigs and poultry, mixed together indiscriminately. + +Shea lies four miles E. by S. of Jaguta. The governor of the town +presented them with a pig, and a quantity of country beer, and they +also received little presents of provisions from a few of the people. + +May the 9th was on a Sunday, and they were invited to witness an +exhibition of tumbling; it was with great reluctance that the +invitation was accepted, not only on account of the sanctity of the +day, but for the delay which it would occasion them. They, however, +considered it politic to lay aside their religious scruples, and they +attended the exhibition mounted on their horses. As soon as it was +over, they were escorted out of the town by beat of drum, preceded by +an armed horseman, and an unarmed drummer, and continued their +journey, followed by a multitude of the inhabitants. + +They passed through a very large walled town called Esalay, about six +miles from Shea, but its wall was dilapidated, and the habitations of +the people in ruins, and almost all deserted. This town, which was +not long since well inhabited, has been reduced to its present +desolate and miserable state, by the protection which its ruler +granted to an infamous robber, whose continued assaults on +defenceless travellers, and his cruelty to them, at length attracted +the notice of the king of Katunga. But previously to this, the +inhabitants of another town not far off, many of whom had at +different times suffered from his bold attacks, called in a number of +Borgoo men, who bore no better reputation for honesty than the robber +himself, and resolved to attempt the capture of the ruffian in his +strong hold, without any other assistance. Their efforts, however, +were unavailing; the governor, entrenched in his walled town, and +supported by his people, sheltered the miscreant and compelled his +enemies to raise the siege. About this time a messenger arrived at +Esalay from the king of Katunga, with commands for the governor to +deliver up the robber to punishment, but instead of obeying them, he +privately warned the man of his danger, who took immediate advantage +of it, and made his escape to Nouffie. The governor was suspected of +aiding the escape of the robber, and a second messenger soon after +arrived from Katunga, with orders for the guilty chief either to pay +a fine to the king, of 120,000 kowries, or put a period to his +existence by taking poison. Neither of these commands suiting the +inclination of the governor of Esalay, he appointed a deputy, and +privately fled to the neighbouring town of Shea, there to await the +final determination of his enraged sovereign. The Landers saw this +man at Shea, dressed in a fancifully made tobe, on which a great +number of Arab characters were stitched. He walked about at perfect +liberty, and did not seem to take his condition much to heart. The +inhabitants of Esalay, however, finding that their ruler had deserted +them, that they were threatened by the king of Katunga, and that the +Borgoo men emboldened by the encouragement they received from that +monarch, were also lurking about the neighbourhood, and ready to do +them any mischief, took the alarm, and imitating the example of their +chief, most of them deserted their huts, and scattered themselves +amongst the different towns and villages in the neighbourhood. Very +few people now resided at Esalay; and this town, lately so populous +and flourishing, was on the visit of the Landers little better than a +heap of ruins. + +After passing through Esalay, they crossed a large morass and three +rivers, which intersected the roadway. The croaking from a multitude +of frogs which they contained, in addition to the noise of their +drum, produced so animating an effect on their carriers, that they +ran along with their burdens doubly as quick as they did before. They +then arrived at an open village called Okissaba, where they halted +for two hours under the shadow of a large tree, to allow some of +their men who had been loitering behind to rejoin them, after which +the whole party again set forward, and did not stop until they +arrived at the large and handsome walled town. Atoopa, through which +Captain Clapperton passed in the last expedition. During their ride, +they observed a range of wooded hills, running from N.N.E. to S.S.W., +and passed through a wilderness of stunted trees, which was relieved +at intervals by patches of cultivated land, but there was not so much +cultivation as might be expected to be found near the capital of +Youriba. + +The armed guides were no longer considered necessary, and, therefore, +on the 10th May, they set out only with their Badagry and Jenna +messengers and interpreters. On leaving Atoopa, they, crossed a +river, which flowed by the foot of that town, where their travellers +overtook them, and they travelled on together. The country through +which the path lay, was uncommonly fine; it was partially cultivated, +abounding in wood and water, and appeared by the number of villages +which are scattered over its surface, to be very populous. As they +rode along, a place was pointed out to them, where a murder had been +committed about seven years ago, upon the person of a young man. He +fell a victim to a party of Borgoo scoundrels, for refusing to give +up his companion to them, a young girl, to whom he was shortly to be +married. They, at first endeavoured to obtain her from him by fair +means, but he obstinately refused to accede to their request, and +contrived to keep the marauders at bay, till the young woman had made +her escape, when he also ran for his life. He was closely pursued by +them, and pierced by the number of arrows which they shot at him; he +at length fell down and died in the path, after having ran more than +a mile from the place where the first arrow had struck him. By the +care with which this story is treasured up in their memory, and the +earnestness and horror with which it is related, the Landers were +inclined to believe, that although there is so great a fuss about the +Borgoo robbers, and so manifest a dread of them, that a minder on the +high-way is of very rare occurrence. When this crime was perpetrated, +the whole nation seemed to be terror-struck, and the people rose up +in arms, as if a public enemy were devastating their country, and +slaughtering its inhabitants without mercy. This is the only instance +they ever heard of a young man entertaining a strong attachment for a +female. Marriage is celebrated by the natives as unconcernedly as +possible. A man thinks as little of taking a wife as of cutting an +ear of corn; affection is altogether out of the question. + +A village in ruins, and a small town called Nama, where they halted +for a short time, were the only inhabited places they passed through +during the day, till their entrance into the town of Leoguadda, which +was surrounded by a double wall, and in which they passed the night. +The governor happened to be in his garden on their arrival, so that +they were completely wearied with waiting for him, but as he did not +make his appearance, they themselves found a convenient and +comfortable hut; and though they were assailed by a volley of abuse +from the mouths of half a dozen women, they succeeded in sending them +away, and they remained in tranquil possession of their quarters. In +the centre of their yard was a circular enclosure without a roof, +within which was an alligator that had been confined there for seven +years. This voracious animal was fed with rats only, of which he +generally devoured five a day. One of the inhabitants perceiving that +John Lander was rather inquisitive, volunteered to go to a river in +the vicinity of the town, and to return in a few minutes with as many +young crocodiles as he might wish for; but as he had no opportunity +of conveying animals of that description through the country, he +declined the man's offer. The inhabitants of Leoguadda, having +probably no vegetable poison, make use of the venom of snakes on the +tips of their arrows. The heads of those serpents, from which they +extract this deadly substance, are exposed on the sticks, which are +thrust into the inside of the thatch of their dwellings as a kind of +trophy. + +Leoguadda is almost surrounded by rugged hills, formed by loose +blocks of granite; these added to a number of tall trees, always +green and growing within the walls, render the town inconceivably +pleasant and romantic. Immense tracts of land are cultivated in the +vicinity of the town with corn, yams, &c., and abundance of swine, +poultry, goats, and sheep are bred by its inhabitants. Formerly, also +herds of cattle were to be seen in the meadows, but they belonged to +Fellatas, who, they were told, fled from Leoguadda some time since, +to join their countrymen at Alorie. + +They left Leoguadda early in the morning of 11th May, and about the +middle of the forenoon reached a walled town of some extent called +Eetcho. This place is of importance on account of a large weekly +market which is held in it. Eetcho had recently been more than half +consumed by fire, and would not, it was supposed, regain its former +condition for some time. Like most large trading-towns, it is in as +unsettled and filthy a state as can be conceived. This day's journey +was highly agreeable, the path lay through a beautiful country, +varied in many places by hills of coarse granite, which were formed +by blocks heaped on each other. Trees and shrubs of a beautiful green +grew from their interstices, and almost hid the masses of stone from +the view. + +The governor of Eetcho welcomed them to his town very civilly; yet +his kindness was not of any great extent, and although in all +probability, he was as opulent as most chiefs on the road, yet he did +not follow their example in giving them provisions, but left them to +procure what they wanted for themselves, in the best manner they were +able. It is the general custom here, when any stranger of consequence +approaches Katunga, to send a messenger before him, for the purpose +of informing the king of the circumstances; and as they were +considered to be personages of consequence, one of their Jenna guides +was deputed to set out on the morrow, and in the mean time they were +to remain at Eetcho until a guard of soldiers should be sent to +escort them to Katunga. They, however, having no inclination for the +honour, as it would expose them to a thousand little inconveniences, +determined to avoid them all by leaving the place by moonlight. + +An extraordinary instance of mortality is here mentioned by Richard +Lander, who says, "that not less than one hundred and sixty governors +of towns and villages, between this place and the seacoast, all +belonging to Youriba, have died from natural causes, or have been +slain in war, since I was last here, and that of the inhabited places +through which we have passed, not more than half a dozen chiefs are +alive at this moment, who received and entertained me on my return to +Badagry three years ago." + +On the night of the 12th, they were visited by a tornado, and in the +morning it rained so heavily, that even if they had not been obliged +to remain in Eetcho that day, it would have been next impossible to +have pursued their journey. The celebrated market of this place may +be said to commence about mid-day, at which time, thousands of buyers +and sellers were assembled in a large open space in the heart of the +town, presenting the most busy, bustling scene imaginable. To say +nothing of the hum and clatter of such a multitude of barbarians, the +incessant exertions of a horrid band of native musicians rendered +their own voices inaudible. People from Katunga and other towns of +less importance, flocked into Eetcho to attend the market held on +this day, which they were informed was not so well attended as on +former occasions; the rain that had fallen, and the alleged danger +which besets the path, having prevented many thousands from leaving +their own abodes. Country cloth, indigo, provision, &c., were offered +for sale, but they observed nothing in the market worthy of notice. +Orders were given by the governor that the town should be well +guarded during the night, for fear of its being attacked whilst the +travellers were in it, and it was given out that any one found +loitering outside the walls after sunset, would be seized without +ceremony, and his effects taken from him. + +A very ungallant custom prevails at Eetcho, which is, that every +woman, who attends the market for the purpose of selling any article, +is obliged to pay a tax of ten kowries to the governor, whilst any +individual of the other sex is allowed to enter the town, and vend +commodities publicly without paying any duty whatever. + +On Thursday May 13th, they arose at a very early hour to undertake +the journey to Katunga, which was rather long, and they hoped not +only to reach that city before the heat became oppressive, but also +to avoid, if possible the escort, which they had every reason to +suppose the king would send out to meet them. Notwithstanding, +however, their most strenuous exertions, it was six o'clock before +they were all ready to depart. The air was cooler than they had felt +it since landing from the Clinker, the thermometer being as low as +71° in the shade. The natives appeared to feel this _severity_ of the +weather most keenly, for although they huddled themselves up in their +warmest cotton dresses, they were yet shivering with cold. Hundreds +of people, and it would perhaps not be overrating the number to say +thousands, preceded and followed them on the pathway; and as they +winded through thick forests, along narrow roads, their blue and +white clothing contrasted with the deep green of the ancient trees, +produced an eminently pleasing effect. After a hasty ride of two +hours, they came in sight of the town of Eetcholee, outside of which +were numerous trees, and underneath their widely spreading branches, +were observed various groups of people seated on the turf taking +refreshment. They joined the happy party, partook of a little corn +and water, which was their usual travelling fare, and then renewed +their journey in good spirits. They had not, however, proceeded a +great way, when the escort, about which they had been so uneasy, was +descried at a distance, and as they approached at a rapid pace, they +joined the party in a very few minutes. There was no great reason +after all, for their modesty to be offended either at the splendour +or numbers of their retinue, for happily it consisted only of a few +ragged individuals on foot, and eight on horseback; with the latter +was a single drummer, but the former could boast of having in their +train, men with whistles, drums and trumpets. + +Richard Lander sounded his bugle, at which the natives were +astonished and pleased; but a black trumpeter jealous of the +performance, challenged a contest for the superiority of the +respective instruments, which terminated in an entire defeat of the +African, who was hooted and laughed at by his companions for his +presumption, and gave up the trial in despair. Amongst the +instruments used on this occasion, was a piece of iron, in shape +exactly resembling the bottom of a parlour fire shovel. It was played +on by a thick piece of wood and produced sounds infinitely less +harmonious than "marrow-bones and cleavers." + +The leader of the escort was a strange looking, powerful fellow, and +might very well serve the writer of a romance as the hero of his +tale, in the character of keeper of an enchanted castle, when fierce, +scowling looks, terrific frowns, and a peculiarly wild expression of +countenance are intended to be _naturally_ described, for the man's +stature was gigantic; his eyes large, keen, piercing, and ever in +motion, his broad nose squatted over both cheeks; his lips immensely +large, exposing a fine set of teeth; the beard was thick, black and +gristly, and covering all the lower part of his face, reached to his +bosom; the famous Blue Beard was nothing to him; and in gazing on his +features, the observer might almost be inclined to believe, that all +the most iniquitous and depraved passions of human nature were +centered in his heart. Yet, with so unlovely and forbidding an +appearance, this man was in reality as innocent and docile as a lamb. +He wore on his head a small rush hat, in shape like a common +earthenware pan inverted, or like the hats, which are worn by the +lower class of the Chinese. His breast was enveloped in a coarse +piece of blue cloth; from his left shoulder hung a large quiver of +arrows, and in his right hand he held a bow, which he brandished like +a lance; a short pair of trousers covered his thighs, and leathern +boots, fantastically made, incased his feet and legs. His skin was of +jetty blackness, his forehead high, but his tremendous beard, which +was slightly tinged with grey, contributed, perhaps, more than any +thing else, to impart that wildness and fierceness to his looks, +which at first inspired the travellers with a kind of dread of their +leader. + +Thus escorted they travelled onwards, and after a hasty ride of six +hours from Eetcho, they beheld from a little eminence, those black +naked hills of granite, at whose base lay the metropolis of Youriba. +About an hour afterwards, they entered the gates of that extensive +city. As being consistent with etiquette, they halted under a tree +just inside the walls, till the king and the eunuchs were informed of +their arrival, which having been done after a wearisome delay, they +rode to the residence of the chief eunuch Ebo, who, next to the king, +was the most influential man in the place. They found this personage +a great fat, round, oily man, airing himself under the verandah of +his dwelling. Other eunuchs of similar appearance were sitting on the +ground with him, and joining him in welcoming both of the travellers, +but particularly Richard, to Katunga, with every appearance of +sincerity, heartiness, and good-will. An uninteresting conversation +now took place, which lasted for some time, after which, they walked +altogether to the king's house, which was at the distance of half a +mile from that place. + + + +CHAPTER XXXII. + +Information of the approach of the travellers had been previously +sent to the monarch, but they were obliged to wait with much patience +for a considerable period, until he had put on his robes of state. In +the mean time to amuse his august visitors, the head drummer and his +assistants, with the most benevolent intention, commenced a concert +of the most bewitching melody; and long drums, kettle drums, and +horns were played with little intermission, till Mansolah, the king, +made his appearance, and the travellers were desired to draw nearer +to pay their respects to his majesty. They performed this ceremony +after the English manner, much to the entertainment and diversion of +the king, who endeavoured to imitate them, but it was easy to see +that he was but a novice in the European mode of salutation--bowing +and shaking hands; nor did he, like some other monarchs, stretch +forth his hand to be kissed, which, to a man possessing a particle of +spirit, must be degrading and humiliating. There is no doubt that it +was owing to the rusticity and awkwardness of their address, not +having been brought up amongst the fooleries and absurdities of a +court, that Mansolah's risible faculties were so strongly excited, +but he laughed so long and heartily, and his wives, and eunuchs, and +subjects of all sorts joined with him with such good will, and such +power of lungs, that at length the travellers were obliged to laugh +too, and were constrained to unite their voices to the general burst +of kindly feeling, although, if they had been asked the cause of such +jollity and obstreperous mirth, they would have been at a loss for an +answer. + +Mansolah's headpiece was something like a bishop's mitre, profusely +ornamented with strings of coral, one of which answered the purpose +of a ribbon, for it was tied under the chin, to prevent the cap from +being blown off. His tobe was of green silk, crimson silk damask, and +green silk velvet, which were all sewn together, like pieces of +patchwork. He wore English cotton stockings, and neat leathern +sandals of native workmanship. A large piece of superfine light blue +cloth, given the chief by Captain Clapperton, was used as a carpet. +The eunuchs, and other individuals who were present at the interview, +prostrated themselves before their prince, agreeably to the custom of +the country, and rubbed their heads with earth two separate times, +retreating at some distance to perform this humiliating and degrading +ceremony, and then drawing near the royal person, to lie again with +their faces in the dust. They also saluted the ground near which he +was sitting, by kissing it fervently and repeatedly, and by placing +each cheek upon it. Then, and not till then, with their heads, and +faces, and lips, and breasts, stained with the red damp soil, which +still clung to them, they were allowed to seat themselves near their +monarch, and to join in the conversation. Two or three of the +inferior eunuchs, not satisfied with this servile prostration, began +to sport and roll themselves on the ground, but this could not be +effected without immense labour, and difficulty, and panting, and +puffing, and straining; for like that paragon of knighthood Sir John +Falstaff, they could not be compared to any thing so appropriately as +huge hummocks of flesh. There they lay wallowing in the mire, like +immense turtles floundering in the sea, till Ebo desired them to +rise. A very considerable number of bald-headed old men were observed +among the individuals present, their hair or rather wool, having been +most likely rubbed off by repeated applications of earth, sand, +gravel, filth, or whatever else might be at hand, when the prince +happened to make his appearance. + +The conference being brought to a close, a kid, a calabash of caffas, +and two thousand kowries were presented to the Landers, and cheered +by a flourish of music, they laughed in concert as a mark of +politeness, and shook hands with the king, and walked away to their +own dwelling, which had been repaired, and thoroughly cleansed for +their use. The latter operation was particularly necessary, as +previously to their inhabiting it, it had been occupied by a +multitude of domestic animals, sheep, pigs, goats, fowls, guinea +fowls, bullocks, in fine, it had been a kind of stable, where Ebo, +the principal eunuch, kept his stock of animals. Here, however, they +were glad to lie down to repose their aching limbs, although the +stench arising from some parts of the hut was almost insupportable. +In the evening, the king returned their visit, and immediately took a +fancy to John Lander's bugle horn, which was very readily given him. +He appeared to be greatly pleased with the present, turning about and +inspecting every part of it, with the greatest curiosity. It appeared +to him, however, to be immaterial as to which end the mouth was to be +applied, for he put the lower part of the instrument to his mouth, +and drawing up his breath to its full extent, sent such a puff of +wind into it, as would have been sufficient for a diapason pipe of an +organ; not hearing, however, the accustomed sound, he delivered the +instrument to John Lander, who brought out of it the shrillest note +which he could, which set the king and his eunuchs into a violent +laugh, and he expressed his delight to the donors of so valuable a +present, assuring them that it made his heart glad to see them, and +hoped that they would make themselves quite comfortable whilst they +remained at Katunga. They now shook hands, made a bow, not one that +would have been deemed a very elegant one amongst the courtiers of +St. James', and the sovereign departed, followed by a suite of wives, +eunuchs, and other attendants. Ebo inquired if there were any thing +further that they wished to be done to their residence, to render +their stay as agreeable as possible. Their yard adjoined that of Ebo, +with which it communicated by a door way, without a door, so that it +enabled the travellers to have frequent opportunities of seeing his +numerous _unhappy wives_, and a number of little boys and girls, who +were his personal attendants. The circumstance of a eunuch keeping a +whole retinue of wives, appeared to the Landers rather an +extraordinary one, for he appeared to treat them with all the +jealousy of a Turkish pacha towards his mistresses in his seraglio. +Of their fidelity or continency, however, could be said, whenever an +opportunity presented itself; but do not require to travel as far as +Africa for the experience, when an opportunity of that kind is +wanted, it is not long before it is obtained. The eunuch sent them a +very fat sheep, as a further token of his good will. On Friday May +14th, Richard Lander accompanied by Ebo, and the other unwieldy +eunuchs, took a present to the king, which was pretty well received; +Mansolah, it was supposed out of compliment, remarked that if they +had not brought with them the value of a single kowrie, they should +have been favourably received at Katunga, and well entertained at his +own expense. They had, previously to presenting themselves before the +king, consulted their friend Ebo, on the subject of their journey to +the Niger, and he strongly advised them by no means even to hint at +such an intention to the king, whose suspicions, he assured them, +would immediately take the alarm, so that instead of being forwarded +on their way thither, they would either be detained in the town for +an indefinite time, or sent back again to the coast. They therefore +conceived it prudent to give him the following statement only:--"That +the king of England, anxious to procure the restoration of certain +papers which belonged to a countryman of theirs, who perished at +Boosa about twenty years ago, which papers were supposed to be in the +possession of the sultan of Yaoorie, they had been despatched hither +by their sovereign, in the hope that the king of Katunga would +forward them to the latter state, for the purpose of obtaining them +from the sultan of Yaoorie, and taking them back with them to +England." + +Mansolah, with the natural indifference of the uncultivated mind, +displayed neither eager curiosity as to their object in coming to his +country, nor surprise when they had informed him of it, but very +promptly observed, that in two days time, he would send a messenger +to Kiama, Wouwou, Boossa, and Yaoorie, for the purpose of acquainting +the rulers of those provinces of their intention to pay them a visit, +and that on the return of the messenger, they should have his +permission to depart. This was promised after Richard Lander's +repeated solicitations and importunities, that they should not be +detained here longer than necessary, as in a very short time, the +violent rains would render the roads to those countries impassable, +and, in consequence, they would not be able to travel till the return +of the dry season. Their speedy departure was also a matter of +importance to them on account of their health, which they found to be +far better when they were travelling, than when cooped up in a close +unwholesome hut, where ventilation appeared to be the object the +least attended to, or considered of no importance at all. + +They were expressly and repeatedly informed that the monarch of this +empire was brother to the king of Benin; but notwithstanding this +near relationship of the two sovereigns, not the slightest +intercourse or communication is maintained between Yarriba and that +power, and the reason ascribed for it is, that the distance between +the two countries is too great. It must, however, be remarked, that +friends and acquaintance are often called brothers in Yarriba; and to +make a distinction in the above instance, they assert that Mansolah +and the king of Benin were of one father and one mother. They made +some inquiries of Ebo on this subject, but he soon silenced their +remarks by observing, that they were too inquisitive, or to use his +own words, "that they talked too much." It was the intention of the +Landers, after leaving Yaoorie to proceed direct to Guarie, the +prince of which country would no doubt send them to Funda, whence it +would be their endeavour to discover the termination of the Niger, +agreeably to their written instructions. + +Instead of the jarring noise of women's tongues, which had hitherto +annoyed and followed them at every stage of their journey from +Badagry, they at length enjoyed as much of composure and +tranquillity, as they could well desire; for the wives of Ebo +residing at some distance from the part of the yard which they +occupied, the shrill sound of their voices was pleasant, contrasted +with the former loud, discordant, and perpetual din which rang in +their ears from morning to night. Their male visitors were, likewise, +few and select, and did not remain with them any very considerable +time together. An order was issued by the king, that if any +impertinent individual troubled them at any time with his company, +when it was not desired, Ebo was at liberty to behead him, and no one +according to the strict injunction of Mattsolah, should tax the +eunuch with injustice or cruelty in the performance of his duties. +This royal proclamation as it may be termed, had the desired effect, +for it was regarded with greater exactness and punctuality than some +royal proclamations are in Europe, the people having a great dread of +Ebo, who, independently of the high office which he held of chief +eunuch, somewhat similar to the office of Lord Chamberlain at the +court of St. James', was also the occupant of the delightful office +of public executioner, an occupation which, in that despotic country, +was frequently called into practice. + +The king of Katunga, like other kings, has also his master of the +horse, who at the time of Lander's visit was an elderly person, +possessing no small degree of influence over his royal master. The +European and the African master of the horse, however, in some +respects bore a great similarity to each other, although contrary to +the opinion of the metaphysicians, the same cause produced a +different effect. The European master of the horse has a great number +of useless horses under his nominal care, and yet has nothing to do; +the African master of the horse has also nothing to do, for the very +best of all reasons, that he has no horses to take care of, the whole +African stud consisting of one or two half-starved, ragged ponies, +which would disgrace a costermonger's cart in the streets of London. +Katunga, however, is not the only place in which the sun shines, +where the office is made for the man, and not the man for the office; +but as they have no pension list in Katunga, nor any retired +allowances, nor any Chiltern Hundreds, to enable them to vacate their +offices, they are immediately sent about their business when age, +sickness, or other infirmity disables them from performing the duties +of their office. The age of the master of the horse of the king of +Katunga was about seventy, but he contrived, similar to the plan +adopted in some other countries, of keeping to himself all the +emoluments of his office, and getting a deputy to perform the labour; +thus for a mess of Indian corn, the stud of the king of Katunga could +be very ably looked after by some half-starved native, whilst the +holder of the office was comfortably reposing himself amongst his +twenty or thirty wives. + +This important personage had been hitherto overlooked by the Landers, +that is, they had not as yet made him any present; in order, however, +to let them know that there was such a being in existence, he sent +them a sheep as a present, on the principle of the English adage, of +throwing a sprat to catch a mackerel. A present from an African +master of the horse is not a disinterested gift; he had seen the +presents delivered to the king, and he ardently longed for a slip of +the red cloth wherewith to decorate his person, and set off the jetty +blackness of his skin. + +The pride of an African dignitary will not allow him to beg, and +therefore he conjectured that on the receipt of his present of the +sheep, common courtesy would instruct the Landers to return the +compliment, by a present of some European article of corresponding +value. Nor was the master of the horse wrong in his conjectures, for +a present was sent him, and to his great delight a strip of red cloth +was included in it. The unfortunate master of the horse, however, +discovered, that although he filled the high office of master of the +horse, he was not master of himself, nor was he master of that, which +he believed did in reality belong to him, for his master and king no +sooner heard that he had received a present of a piece of red cloth, +than his majesty discovered that it was a colour, which royalty alone +was entitled to wear. The master of the horse had scarcely exhibited +his valuable present to his admiring wives, all of whom begged for a +bit wherewith to enhance the charms of their unwieldy persons, than a +messenger from the king arrived, bearing the afflicting intelligence +to the master of the horse, to deliver up for the use of his majesty, +a certain piece of red cloth presented to him by the Europeans then +in the town, or submit to have his head cut off by the dexterity of +his chief eunuch. The master of the horse judged it better to lose +the cloth than his head, and with a very ill grace, and muttering +some expressions partaking strongly of the enormous crime of high +treason, the cloth was delivered up, and the master of the horse +returned to his wives to condole with them on the heavy loss which +they had sustained. + +Speaking of the town of Katunga, Lander says, "All seems quiet and +peaceable in this large dull city, and one cannot help feeling rather +melancholy, in wandering through streets almost deserted, and over a +vast extent of fertile land, on which there is no human habitation, +and scarcely a living thing to animate or cheer the prevailing +solemnity." The walls of the town have been suffered to fall into +decay, and are now no better than a heap of dust and ruins, and such +unconcern and apathy pervade the minds of the monarch and his +ministry, that the wandering and ambitious Fellata has penetrated +into the very heart of the country, made himself master of two of its +most important and flourishing towns, with little, if any opposition, +and is gradually, but very perceptibly gaining on the lukewarm +natives of the soil, and sapping the foundations of the throne of +Yarriba. The people, surely, cannot be aware of their own danger, or +they never would be unconcerned spectators of the events, which are +rapidly tending to root out their religion, customs, and +institutions, and totally annihilate them as a nation. But since they +have neither foresight, nor wisdom, nor resolution to put themselves +in a posture of defence, and make at least a show of resistance, when +danger real or imaginary menaces them; since neither the love of +country, which stimulates all nations to heroic achievements in +defence of their just and natural rights, and all that is truly dear +to them in the world; and since neither affection for their +defenceless wives and unprotected offspring, nor love of self can +awaken a single spark of courage or patriotism in their bosoms, can +scare away that demon sloth from among them, or induce them to make a +solitary exertion to save themselves and posterity from a foreign +yoke; why then, they are surely unworthy to be called a people; they +deserve to be deprived of their effects, children, and personal +liberty, to have their habitual sloth and listlessness converted into +labour and usefulness, in tilling, improving, and beautifying for +strangers, that soil, which they have neither spirit nor inclination +to cultivate for themselves. + +A market is held daily in different parts of Katunga, but there are +two days in the week, in which it is much larger and more numerously +attended than on any of the other days. One is styled the queen's +market, but in the evening, when it is held in another place, it is +called the king's market. To make a market profitable, the sellers +and buyers should be equal, for where either predominate, the +advantage cannot be mutual; if the buyers exceed the sellers, the +articles sold will rise in price, and on the other hand, if the +sellers exceed the buyers, a depreciation in the price will take +place. The latter case was observed to prevail in the markets of +Katunga, and which was in a degree a direct proof that the supply +surpassed the population. The articles chiefly exposed for sale were, +several different kinds of corn, beans, peas, and vegetables, in +great abundance and variety; the butter extracted from the mi-cadama +tree, country cotton cloths, red clay, ground or guinea nuts, salt, +indigo, and different kinds of pepper; snuff and tobacco, trona, +knives, barbs, hooks, and needles, the latter of the rudest native +manufacture. There were also finger rings of tin and lead, and iron +bracelets and armlets, old shells, old bones, and other venerable +things, which the members of the society of antiquaries would +estimate as articles of real _vertu_; a great variety of beads both +of native and European manufacture, among the former of which was +recognised the famous Agra bead, which at Cape Coast Castle, Accra, +and other places, is sold for its weight in gold, and which has been +in vain attempted to be imitated by the Italians and our own +countrymen. One most remarkable thing was offered for sale, and that +was a common blue English plate, the price of which was, however, too +high for the individuals who frequented the market, although many +there were, who cast a longing eye on so valuable a piece of +property. Some of the people were disposed to look upon it as a +fetish, and the seller was by no means disinclined to invest it with +that character, as he then knew, he could demand for it whatever +price he pleased. The owner of it, however, from the exorbitant price +which he put upon the piece of English crockery, carried it home with +him, and dearly did he repent that he did not accept of the highest +offer that was made him, for on its reaching the ears of his majesty, +the king considered that he had as good a right to the English plate, +especially as it was a fetish, as he had to the scarlet cloth of his +master of the horse, and therefore the owner of it had his option, to +deliver it up for the use of royalty, as an appendage to the crown of +Katunga, or to lose his own appendage of a head under the sword of +that skilful anatomist, Ebo. The owner of the plate adopted the same +line of policy as the master of the horse, and the English plate +became a part of the hereditary property of the kings of Katunga. + +Some of the articles in the market were not of the most tempting +nature, at least to a European appetite; for instead of the dainties +of an English market, consisting of hares, rabbits, fowls, &c., the +natives of Katunga feasted their looks upon an immense number of +rats, mice, and lizards, some ready dressed for the immediate +satisfaction of the appetite, with the skins on, and some undressed +to be taken home, for the Glasses and the Kitcheners of Katunga to +try their culinary skill upon. Little balls of beef and mutton were +also to be had, weighing about two ounces, but the stomach must not +have been of the squeamish kind, which could relish them. + +On the return of the Landers from the market, where they were more +gazed upon than any of the articles submitted for sale, they received +a visit from their friend Ebo, who was the bearer of the unwelcome +intelligence, that a body of Fellatas from Soccatoo had arrived at +the Moussa, a river which divides Yarriba from Borgoo, and that they +had attacked a town on its borders, through which their route would +lie. Therefore, continued Ebo, the Yaoorie messenger will of +necessity be compelled to wait here till authentic intelligence be +received of the truth or falsehood of the rumour, before he sets out +on his mission to Kiama. There was little doubt, Ebo said, but the +truth or falsity of the statement would be ascertained in about three +days, and the messenger then would be immediately despatched on his +errand. + +This intelligence bore in the eyes of the Landers the character of a +complete fiction, but for what purpose it was so got up, they could +not divine. The king could gain little or nothing by their protracted +stay in his capital; he had received his presents, and therefore it +was conjectured, that it might be the etiquette of the court of +Katunga, not only for the king to receive some presents from +strangers on their arrival, and especially from travellers of the +character and importance which the Landers gave themselves out to be, +as the accredited ambassadors of the king of England, but also that +the departure was to be preceded by certain presents, as a kind of +passport or purchase of his leave to travel through his dominions. +It appeared also most strange to the Landers, that the very day after +their arrival, the Fellatas should so opportunely seize upon a town, +through which they were to pass, and that the information of the +inroad of so dreaded an enemy should not have reached Katunga at an +earlier period, when intelligence of no moment whatever flies through +the country with the swiftness of an arrow from the bow. There was +also another strong inducement, which operated upon the mind of the +Landers, to expedite their departure, and that was, that from some +circumstances which had occurred, it was not beyond the range of +probability, that the head of John Lander, if not of his brother +also, might be severed by the skill of Ebo, the executioner. Love is +certainly a most wondrous power, whether it shows itself in the bosom +of the fair English girl, or in that of the sooty African; nor is it +confined to times and places, to condition or to climate; for it +grows and flourishes in the wigwam of the American, the coozie of the +African, and the proud edifices of the Europeans. It, however, +sometimes happens, that although one party may be in love, the other +is as frigid, as if he were part and parcel of an iceberg, and so was +it situated with John Lander. It has been already stated, that the +communication between the yard which the Landers occupied, and that +which was tenanted by the wives of Ebo, was uninterrupted, and of +course in the absence of their husband, there was no impediment to +any of them whispering their tale of love into the ears of the +juvenile travellers, whenever they thought they were in a disposition +to hear it. Some of the wives indeed, instead of being the nourishers +and fosterers of love, were the veriest antidotes to it, that perhaps +human nature could produce; on the other hand, there were some in the +fullness and freshness of youth, who had just been selected or rather +purchased by Ebo, as very proper persons to soothe and comfort him in +his declining years. One of them in particular, had, by certain signs +and gestures, given John Lander to understand, that although they +might vary very much in colour, yet that a kind of sympathy might +exist between their hearts, which would lead to a mutual +communication of happiness, so much desired at so great a distance +from his native land. John, however, either did not or would not +understand the language, which the sable beauty spoke; still her +conduct was not unnoticed by several other ladies of the seraglio, +and particularly by the shrivelled and the wizened, who hesitated not +to convey the intelligence to Ebo, who immediately paid a visit to +the travellers, out of pure compliment and good-will, as he said, at +the same time expressing his fears that the curiosity of his women +might be troublesome to them, and as it was by no means his wish, nor +that of his lord and sovereign, the king, that they should be +subjected to any species of annoyance, he had given directions for +the door-way to be instantly blocked up with mortar, which would +effectually prevent any further unpleasant intrusion on the part of +the women. + +The Landers could evidently see the lurking motive for this extreme +attention of Ebo, to promote their comfort, nor were they in reality +displeased at it, for the society of the women was certainly at times +very unpleasant and irksome, and as some of them evinced a strong +disposition for intriguing, it was considered fortunate that the +communication was closed, as the friendship and good-will of Ebo were +particularly necessary to them, not only to secure their good +treatment during their stay at Katunga, but also to expedite their +departure from it. + +Ebo had scarcely taken his departure, and they were rejoicing at the +probability of not being again intruded upon, particularly as it was +the Sabbath day, when, to their great annoyance, they were favoured +with the company of several Houssa mallams, who, notwithstanding the +irksome restraint to which they are subjected by the jealousy of the +king and his people, are content to remain so far from their native +country, and reside amongst strangers and pagans as long as they +live. Whether the priests have taken this step purely from religious +motives, or, which is the more likely reason of the two, that they +have exiled themselves from their home and families for the mere +purpose of being enriched at the expense of the credulity and +ignorance of the inhabitants, were questions, which could not at the +time be solved. At all events, the institutions of these missionaries +are effectually concealed under a cloak of piety and devotion; and +thus they are tolerated by the common consent of the monarch and his +subjects. + +The practice of making presents is, in general, in the African +cities, not confined to the sovereign and his immediate ministers, +but it extends to every grade, in the least degree connected with the +court. Thus the Landers supposed that when they had made their +presents to the king and his chief eunuchs, no further demand would +be made upon them in the way of presents; in this, however, they +found themselves mistaken, for they now discovered that there were +certain gentlemen, styled head men, who are the confidential advisers +of the king, and lead his armies to battle. It was, however, +necessary previously to sending the presents to the head men, to +submit them to the inspection of the king, in order that nothing +might be given them, which had not his approbation and consent. This +was accordingly done, and the donors took particular care not to +include any red cloth amongst their presents. It was rather laughable +to see the presents undergoing the examination of Mansolah. Amongst +them were three large clasp knives, one for each of the head men, +but his majesty very unceremoniously delivered one of them, without +speaking a word, into the hands of Ebo, who as unceremoniously put it +into his belt, to be hereafter deposited amongst other valuables +belonging to the sovereignty. This occasioned Richard Lander to +return to his hut for another knife, for he easily foresaw that were +he to make any distinction in the value or the number of the articles +to the head men, it might be the cause of exciting jealousy and ill +blood, and be greatly detrimental to his own interests, for as they +were the advisers of the king, they were sure to make that one their +enemy, who might look upon his present as less valuable, than those +presented to their companions. + +Towards evening, Richard Lander rode to the residence of the head +men, by each of whom he was received in the most friendly manner. The +presents were laid before them, and accepted with a profusion of +thanks. One of them attempted to make a speech, but if he acquitted +himself no better when giving his advice to his sovereign, than he +did in the expression of his thanks, he could not be said to be a +great acquisition to the councils of his king. The huts of the head +men were larger and more carefully built, and their yards more +commodious than even those of the king; all were kept in excellent +order, clean and neat. These ministers of the crown, like the +ministers of other countries, had contrived to appropriate to +themselves the good things of the country, for they were in far more +affluent circumstances than any of their neighbours; they had a wife +for almost every week in the year, and large flocks of sheep and +goats, in which the wealth of the natives principally consists. A +goat, and two large pots of country beer, were laid at the feet of +Richard Lander, and after expressing his acknowledgements, he +returned home. + +The Landers were of opinion, that it would require a long residence +in this country, and a perfect acquaintance with its language to +enable a foreigner to form a correct judgment of its laws, manners, +customs, and institutions, as well as its religion and form of +government. So innumerable are the mistakes, which the smattering of +ignorant native interpreters never fails to occasion, that they +despaired of obtaining any accurate information on any of those +heads. Perhaps few despots sully their dignity, by condescending to +consult the inclination of their subjects, in personally +communicating to them their most private as well as public concerns. +Yet the sovereign of Youriba appeared to be so obliging, as to make +this a common practice. In return, however, the people are expected +and compelled to satisfy the curiosity of their prince, by adopting a +similar line of conduct towards him; and all the presents which they +receive from strangers, however trifling they may be, are in every +instance taken to his residence for inspection. Every thing, indeed, +which relates to their personal interests, and all their domestic +concerns, he listens to with the most patriarchal gravity. Thus, the +presents of the Landers to the king, were exhibited two or three +times. The presents to Ebo, and also to the head men, were also shown +to the people, having been first submitted to the inspection of the +king. The common people were all anxious to know, whether, amongst +the other things they had received, any coral had been given to the +king or his ministers; and their curiosity was immediately gratified +without hesitation or remark. If a stranger from a remote part of the +empire, wishes to visit Katunga, in order to pay his respects to the +sovereign, the chief or governor of every town through which he may +happen to pass, is obliged to furnish him with any number of carriers +he may require; and in this manner his goods are conveyed from +village to village, until he arrives at the capital. A similar +indulgence is likewise extended to any governor who may have the like +object in view. + +The most laughable mistakes were frequently made here, by one of the +Badagrian messengers, who acted also as an interpreter, as regards +the gender and relationship of individuals, such as father for +mother, son for daughter, boy for girl, and _vice versa_. He informed +Richard Lander that a _brother_ of his, who was the friend of Ebo, +and resided with him, begged his permission to come and see them; of +course they expected to see a gentleman of some consequence enter +their yard, but to their surprise, the brother proved to be an old +shrivelled woman, neither more nor less than one of the eunuch's +wives. + +Katunga by no means answered the expectations which the Landers had +been led to form of it, either as regards its prosperity, or the +number of its inhabitants. The vast plain also on which it stands, +although exceedingly fine, yields in verdure and fertility, and +simple beauty of appearance to the delightful country surrounding the +less celebrated city of Bohoo. Its market is tolerably well supplied +with provisions, which are, however, exceedingly dear, in so much so +that with the exception of disgusting insects, reptiles, and vermin, +the lower classes of people are almost unacquainted with the taste of +animal food. + +Owing to the short time that the Landers had been in the country, +which had been chiefly employed in travelling from town to town, the +manners of the people had not sufficiently unfolded themelves their +observation, so that they were unable to speak Of them with +confidence, yet the few opportunities, which they had of studying +their characters and disposition, induced them to believe, that they +were a simple, honest, inoffensive, but a weak, timid, and cowardly +race. They seemed to have no social tenderness, very few of those +amiable private virtues, which could win their affection, and none of +those public qualities that claim respect or command admiration. The +love of country is not strong enough in their bosoms to invite them +to defend it against the irregular incursions of a despicable foe; +and of the active energy, noble sentiments, and contempt of danger, +which distinguish the North American tribes, and other savages, no +traces are to be found amongst this slothful people; regardless of +the past, as reckless of the future, the present alone influences +their actions. In this respect they approached nearer to the nature +of the brute creation, than perhaps any other people on the face of +the globe. Though the bare mention of an enemy makes the +pusillanimous Mansolah, and his unwarlike subjects tremble in every +limb, they take no measures to prevent whole bands of strangers from +locating in the finest provinces of the empire, much less do they +think of expelling them after they have made those provinces their +own. To this unpardonable indifference to the public interest, and +neglect of all the rules of prudence and common sense, is owing the +progress, which the Fellatas made in gaining over to themselves a +powerful party, consisting of individuals from various nations in the +interior, who had emigrated to this country, and the great and +uniform success which has attended all their ambitious projects. At +the time of the visit of the Landers, they were effectually in the +heart of the kingdom, they had entrenched themselves in strong walled +towns, and had recently forced from Mansolah a declaration of their +independence, whilst this negligent and imbecile monarch beheld them +gnawing away the very sinews of his strength, without making the +slightest exertion to apply a remedy for the evil, or prevent their +future aggrandizement. Independently of Raka, which is peopled wholly +by Fellatas, who have strengthened it amazingly, and rendered it +exceedingly populous, another town of prodigious size, had lately +sprung into being, which already surpassed Katunga in wealth, +population, and extent. It was at first resorted to by a party of +Fellatas, who named it Alorie, and encouraged all the slaves in the +country to fly from the oppression of their masters, and join their +standard. They reminded the slaves of the constraint tinder which +they laboured; and tempted them by an offer of freedom and +protection, and other promises of the most extravagant nature, to +declare themselves independent of Yarriba. Accordingly, the +discontented; many miles round, eagerly flocked to Alorie in +considerable numbers, where they were well received. This occurrence +took place about forty years ago, since which, other Fellatas have +joined their countrymen from Sockatoo and Rabba; and notwithstanding +the wars, if mutual kidnapping deserves the name, in which they have +been engaged, in the support and maintenance of their cause, Alorie +is become by far the largest and most flourishing city in Yarriba, +not even excepting the capital itself. It was said to be two days +journey, that is, forty or fifty miles in circumference, and to be +fortified by a strong clay wall, with moats. The inhabitants had vast +herds and flocks, and upwards of three thousand horses, which last +will appear a very considerable number, when it is considered that +Katunga does not contain more than as many hundreds. The population +of Alorie has never been estimated, but it must be immense. It has +lately been declared independent of Yarriba, and its inhabitants are +permitted to trade with the natives of the country, on condition that +no more Fellatas be suffered to enter its walls. It is governed by +twelve rulers, each of a different nation, and all of equal power; +the Fellata chief not having more influence or greater sway than the +other. Raka is but one day's journey north-east of Katunga, and +Alorie three days journey to the south-west. The party of Fellatas, +which were reported to have taken possession of a Yarriba town, on +the banks of the Moussa, were said to have abandoned it, and to have +joined their countrymen at Raka. This intelligence was brought to +Katunga by market people, no one having been sent by the king to +ascertain the number of the adventurers, or the object of their +visit. + +The king of Katunga, since the arrival of the travellers in his +capital, had been very niggardly in his presents, as coming from a +monarch of a large and mighty kingdom. Nor in other respects was the +conduct of Mansolah, such as to impart to them much pleasure, nor +could they in any wise account for it, than by supposing that their +own present had fallen short of his expectations, and thereby failed +to awaken those good-natured qualities, which were displayed at sight +of the infinitely more valuable, as well as showy one of Captain +Clapperton. But whatever might have been the reason, certain it is +that Mansolah and his subjects had seen quite enough of white men, +and that the rapturous exultation which glowed in the cheeks of the +first European that visited this country, on being gazed at, admired, +caressed, and almost worshipped as a god; joined to the delightful +consciousness of his own immeasurable superiority, will in the +present, at least, never be experienced by any other. "Alas!" says +Richard Lander, "what a misfortune; the eager curiosity of the +natives has been glutted by satiety, a European is shamefully +considered no more than a man, and hereafter, he will no doubt be +treated entirely as such; so that on coming to this city, he must +make up his mind to sigh a bitter farewell to goats' flesh and +mutton, and familiarize his palate to greater delicacies, such a +lizards, rats, and locusts, caterpillars, and other dainties, which +the natives roast, grill, bake, and boil, and which he may wash down, +if he pleases, with draughts of milk white water, the only beverage +it will be in his power to obtain." On the morning of Wednesday the +19th of May, Richard Lander was desired by a messenger to visit the +king at his residence, and on his arrival there, he found a great +number of people assembled. The object of this summons was explained +by Ebo, who said that Lander had been sent for, that the present +which he, the eunuch had received, should be shown to the people +without any reservation whatever. It was accordingly spread out on +the floor, together with the presents made to the king. Even a bit of +English brown soap, which had been given to Ebo a short time before, +was exhibited along with the other things; for so great a degree of +jealousy exists among the eunuchs and others, arising from the +apprehension that one might have received more than another; that Ebo +himself, powerful as he is, would dread the effects of it on his own +person, should he have been found to have concealed a single thing. +They all in fact endeavour to disarm censure by an appearance of +openness and sincerity. + +On the night of Thursday the 20th, to their infinite surprise and +pleasure, Ebo entered their yard in a great hurry, with the pleasant +information, that the king, as nothing more was to be got from them, +had consented to their departure on the following morning; and that +it was his wish they would get their things in readiness by that +time. So confident were they that they would be unable to start from +Katunga, for a month to come at the earliest, that they had not only +sowed cress and onion seed the day after their arrival, which were +already springing up, but they had actually made up their minds to +abide there during the continuance of the rains. But now they were in +hope of reaching Yaoorie in twelve or fourteen days, in which city +they intended to remain for a short time, before proceeding further +into the interior. The only drawback to their pleasure, was the +misfortune of having all their horses sick, which might seriously +inconvenience them in their progress. The old route to Kiama was +considered so dangerous, that it was understood they were to be sent +back to Atoopa, which was two long days' journey from Katunga, and +they were to proceed in a safer path. Although they now required but +five men besides their own to carry the luggage, the king scrupled +and hesitated to supply them with them, and the youngest of their +Jenna messengers was nominated to fill the place of one of them. They +were told that it was on account of the vast number of people that +have emigrated from Katunga to Raka and Alorie, that a sufficient +number of carriers could not be procured for them; but in so large a +place as Katunga, where two thirds of the population are slaves, +their reason seemed quite ridiculous, and they suspected the real one +to be the same original sin, viz. the humble character of their +present. The king, however, promised to take his farewell of them on +the following morning, and they being in good health, they hoped soon +to accomplish the object of their undertaking, and return in safety +to Old England. + +On the following day, instead of the visit from the king, which they +were told on the preceding day he was to honor them with, they were +requested to repair to his residence. Accordingly, having first +saddled their horses, and packed up their luggage between six and +seven o'clock a.m., the two brothers walked to the royal residence. +On their arrival they were introduced without any ceremony into a +private yard, wherein the king had been patiently waiting their +coming for some time previously. He was rather plainly dressed in the +costume of the country, namely a tobe, trousers, and sandals, with a +cap very much resembling in shape those, which were worn by elderly +ladies in the time of queen Elizabeth, and which are still retained +by some in the more remote parts of England. On his right the eunuchs +were reposing their huge limbs on the ground, with several of the +elders of the people, and his left was graced by a circle of his +young wives, behind whom sat the widows of more than one of his +predecessors, many of whom appeared aged. A performer on the whistle +was the only musician present. So that during a very long interview, +a little whistling now and then was the only amusement which the +prince could afford them. A good deal of discussion ensued, and much +serious whispering between the monarch and his wives, in the course +of which both parties quitted the yard two or three times to hold a +secret conference; followed by the eunuchs with their hands clasped +on their breast. Mansolah at length scraped together two thousand +kowries, about three shillings and sixpence sterling, which he +presented to the four men that had accompanied the travellers from +Badagry and Jenna as guides, messengers, &c., to enable them to +purchase provisions on their journey homeward. This sum had been +collected from amongst the king's wives, each having contributed a +portion, because their lord and master did not happen to be in a +liberal mood. Poor souls! they possess scarcely the shadow of +royalty, much less the substance; the exterior forms of respect which +they receive from the male portion of the people alone distinguishing +them from their less illustrious countrywomen. They are compelled to +work in order to provide themselves with food and clothing, and +besides which, part of the earnings is applied to the king's use. To +effect these objects, they are necessitated to make long and painful +journeys to distant parts of the empire, for the purpose of trading. +They have, however, the privilege of travelling from town to town, +without being subjected to the usual duty, and can command the use of +the governor's house wherever they go. The boasted industry of +ancient queens and princesses in more classic regions, sinks into +nothing when compared to the laborious life, which is led by the +female branch of the royal family at Yarriba. + +Mansolah, after some time beckoned to them to draw near him, for they +were sitting at some distance on a bundle of sticks, and with a +benevolent smile playing upon his wrinkled features, he slowly and +with great solemnity placed a goora nut in the right hand of each of +them, and then asked their names. Richard and John, they replied, +"Richard-_ee_ and John-_ee_," said the king, for he was unable to +pronounce their Christian names without affixing a vowel to the end +of them, "you may now sit down again." They did so, and remained in +that posture until they were both completely wearied, when they +desired Ebo to ask the king's permission for them to go home to +breakfast, which was granted without reluctance. Then, having shaken +hands with the good old man, and wishing a long and happy reign, they +bade him farewell for the last time, bowed to the ladies, and +returned with all haste to their hut. + + + +CHAPTER XXXIII. + +Every thing was now ready for their departure from Katunga, but some +considerable time elapsed before the carriers were ready to take up +their loads, and much murmuring was occasioned by their size and +weight. They then left the city, and returned to Eetcho by the way +they had come. One of their horses became so weak on the road, that +he was unable to carry his rider, old Pascoe, so that they were +obliged to drive him along before them, which was a tiresome and +unpleasant occupation. The journey from Katunga was long, and owing +to the ruggedness of the path, was very fatiguing, and as they were +much in advance of the remainder of the party, they halted at +Eetcholee, until they joined them. Here they let their horses graze, +partook of some beer and other refreshment, and sat down on the turf +to enjoy themselves, for the day had been sultry, and the heat +oppressive, and their whole party were nearly exhausted. + +On Saturday May 22nd, an unexpected obstacle presented itself to the +prosecution of their journey, as the Katunga carriers all complained +of pains in their limbs, and on reaching Leoguadda, which lies midway +between Eetcho and Atoopa, they placed their burdens on the ground, +and to a man, stoutly refused to take them any further until the +following day. Their own men also, who were still more heavily laden +than the Katunga men, had suffered so much from the long and irksome +journey of yesterday, particularly Jowdie, who was the strongest and +most athletic of them all, that they greatly feared that all of them +would have been taken seriously ill on the road. They, therefore, +lightened their burdens, and distributed a portion of what they had +taken out of them into the boxes, &c., of their already overladen +Katunga associates, without, however, permitting the latter to know +any thing of the circumstance. Among the carriers was a very little +man, called Gazherie, (small man,) on account of his diminutive +stature; he was notwithstanding very muscular, and possessed uncommon +strength, activity, and vigour of body, and bore a package containing +their tent, &c., which though very heavy, was yet by far the lightest +load of the whole. Conceiving that corporeal strength, rather than +bulk or height, should in this case be taken into the account, a bag +of shot weighing 28lbs, was extracted from Jowdie's burden, and +clandestinely added to his. The little man trudged along merrily, +without dreaming of the fraud that had been practised on him, till +they arrived within a short distance of Leoguadda, when imagining +that one end of the tent felt much heavier than the other, he was +induced to take it from his head, and presently discovered the +cheat, for the bag having been thrust simply inside the covering, it +could be seen without unlacing the package. He was much enraged at +being thus deceived, and called his companions around him to witness +the fact, and said he was resolved to proceed no further than +Leoguadda. He then succeeded in persuading them to follow his +example, and thus a kind of combination was instantly formed against +the travellers. As was usual with them on entering a village, they +rested a little while under a shady tree in Leoguadda, and here they +were presently surrounded by the murmuring carriers, with the little +man at their head. They were furious at first, and gave them to +understand that they would go no further, and were determined, let +the consequence be what it might, to remain in the town all night. +Leoguadda contained no accommodations whatever for them, and a storm +seemed now to be gathering over their heads. Atoopa was the town in +which the king of Katunga had advised them to spend the night; they +therefore resolved to go on to that town, and strenuously endeavoured +by gentle means to bring over the carriers to their views, but, these +failing, they resorted to their own mode of argument, namely, fierce +looks, violent action, vociferous bawling, and expressive gesture, +which intimidated so much, that they snatched up their burdens, +without saying a word, and ran away with alacrity and good humour. +These carriers Were to accompany them as far as the frontier town of +the kingdom. + +It was market day at Atoopa, and at a distance of some miles from the +town, the hum of human voices could be distinctly heard. Just after +their arrival, a man of note, who was a public singer and dancer, +stood before the door of their hut to entertain them with a specimen +of his abilities, and he entered with so much warmth and agility into +the spirit of his profession, that his whimsical performance really +afforded them much diversion. The musician had two assistant drummers +in his train, whose instruments were far from being unmusical, and +likewise several other men, whose part was to keep time by clapping +with their hands. The dancing was excellent of its kind, and +resembled more the European style, than any they had before seen in +the country. The singing was equally good, the voices of the men +being clear and agreeable; they sang the responses, and likewise +accompanied the chanting of their master with their voices; in fact, +they performed their part of the entertainment to admiration. A +_Fatakie_, a smaller number than a coffle of merchants, left Atoopa +on the preceding day for Kiama, and it was most likely that they +would overtake them at the next town. + +On Sunday morning, though their horses were in a very weak condition, +and all looked extremely sorrowful, yet they quitted Atoopa at an +early hour and in good spirits, and journeying in a westerly +direction, in two hours time they entered a lively little walled +town, called Rumbum. Here they dismounted, and took a slight +refreshment of parched corn and water, on the trunk of a fallen tree. +Rumbum is a great thoroughfare for fatakies of merchants, trading +from Houssa, Borgoo, and other countries to Gonga; and consequently a +vast quantity of land is cultivated in its vicinity with corn and +yams, to supply them with provisions. + +On quitting this town, their course altered to N.W., and continued so +till their arrival at the large and important town of Keeshee, which +is on the frontier of the kingdom, and distant from Atoopa only about +twelve miles. It is surrounded by a double strong clay wall, and is +an excellent situation as a place of security from the attacks of the +enemy. Before entering this place, and at the distance of a mile from +it, they passed through a clean, extensive, and highly-flourishing +Fellata village, called Acba, which, like most other places in +Yarriba inhabited by Fellatas, was well stocked with sheep and +cattle. + +The governor of Keeshee having died only ten days previously to their +arrival, they were well received by his successor, who was an elderly +and respectable-looking man. Shortly after their arrival, he sent +them a present of a fine young bullock, a quantity of yams, and more +than a gallon of excellent strong beer. In the centre of the town is +a high stony hill, almost covered with trees of stinted growth, to +which, in case of an invasion by the enemy, the inhabitants fly for +refuge. As soon as they have reached its summit, it is borne, they +say, by a supernatural power above the clouds, where it remains till +the danger is over. Some years have elapsed since this miracle last +took place, yet the story is told with a serious belief of its truth, +and with the most amusing gravity. About a quarter of a mile to the +north-east of this marvellous hill, rises another, which very much +resembles it in shape and appearance, but the latter is rather larger +and higher, and overlooks the country for many miles round. + +A number of emigrants from different countries reside in this place; +there are not a few from Borgoo, Nouffie, Houssa and Bornoo, and two +or three Tuaricks from the borders of the Great Desert. To the west +of the town is a picturesque hill of a gentle ascent, on which are +several small hamlets; these hamlets have a rural and eminently +beautiful appearance. In no town through which they had hitherto +travelled, had they seen so many fine tall men, and good-looking +women, as at this place; yet several individuals of both sexes were +to be met with, who had lost the sight of one eye, and others who had +unseemly wens on their throats, as large as cocoa nuts. They saw a +cripple to-day for the first time, and a female dwarf, whose height +scarcely exceeded thirty inches, and whose appearance bespoke her to +be between thirty and forty years of age. Her head was +disproportionately large to the size of her body; her features, like +her voice, were harsh, masculine, and unpleasant in the extreme. It +would have been ridiculous to be afraid of such a diminutive thing, +but there was an expression in her countenance so peculiarly +repulsive, unwomanly, and hideous, that on approaching their hut, +they felt a very unusual and disagreeable sensation steal over them. +The descriptions of an elf or a black dwarf in the Arabian Nights +Entertainments, or modern romances, would serve well to portray the +form and lineaments of this singular little being. + +It was market day, and Richard Lander took a walk in the evening to +the place where the market was held, but the crowd that gathered +round him was so great, as to compel him to return home much sooner, +than he had intended. If he happened to stand still even for a +moment, the people pressed by thousands to get close to him, and if +he attempted to go on, they tumbled over one another to get out of +his way, overturning standings and calabashes, throwing down their +owners, and scattering their property about in all directions. The +blacksmiths in particular, welcomed him by clashing their iron tools +against each other, and the drummers rejoiced by thumping violently +upon one end of their instruments. A few women and children ran from +him in a fright, but the majority less timid, approached as near as +they could, to catch a glimpse of the first white man they had ever +seen. His appearance seemed to interest them amazingly, for they +tittered and wished him well, and turned about to titter again. On +returning, the crowd became more dense than ever, and drove all +before them like a torrent, dogs, goats, sheep, and poultry were +borne along against their will, which terrified them so much, that +nothing could be heard but noises of the most lamentable description; +children screamed, dogs yelled, sheep and goats bleated most +piteously, and fowls cackled, and fluttered from among the crowd. +Never was such a hubbub made before in the interior of Africa, by the +appearance of a white man, and happy indeed was that white man to +shelter himself from all this uproar in his own yard, whither the +multitude dared not follow him. + +The widows of the deceased chief of Keeshee, daily set apart a +portion of the twenty-four hours to cry for their bereavement, and +pray to their gods. On this evening, they began in the same sad, +mournful tone, which is commonly heard on similar occasions all over +the country. Richard Lander asked their interpreter, why the women +grieved so bitterly, he answered quickly, "What matter! they laugh +directly." So it was supposed, that they cried from habit, rather +than from feeling, and that they can shed tears and be merry in the +same breath, whenever they please. About seven o'clock this evening, +they heard a public crier, proclaiming with a loud voice, that should +any one be discovered straggling about the streets after that hour, +he would be seized and put to death. Many houses in the town had +lately been set on fire by incendiaries, and this most likely gave +rise to the above precautionary measure. + +They were compelled to remain the whole of the following day, on +account of the inability of the governor to procure them carriers for +their luggage, The number of people who visited them to-day was so +great, and their company so irksome, that they were perplexed for +some time how to get rid of them without offence. One party in +particular was so unpleasant, and they so seriously incommoded them, +that they had recourse to the unusual expedient of smoking them off, +by kindling a fire at the door of their hut, before which they were +sitting. It succeeded agreeably to their wishes. + +A company of women and girls from the Fellata village of Acba, +impelled by a curiosity so natural to their sex, came likewise to see +them in the afternoon, but their society, instead of being +disagreeable, as the company of all their other visitors proved to +be, was hailed by them with pleasure. For these females were so +modest and so retiring, and evinced so much native delicacy in their +whole behaviour, that they excited in the breast of the travellers +the highest respect: their personal attractions were no less winning; +they had fine sparkling jetty eyes, with eyelashes as dark and glossy +as the ravens' plume; their features were agreeable, although their +complexions were tawny; their general form was elegant; their hands +small and delicate, and the peculiar cleanliness of their persons, +and neatness of dress added to these, rendered their society +altogether as desirable as that of their neighbours was disagreeable. + +The Fellatas inhabiting Acba were all born and bred in that town, +their ancestors settled in the country at so remote a period, that +although some inquiries were made respecting it, all their questions +were unavailing, and in fact, not even a tradition has been preserved +on the subject. These "children of the soil," lead a harmless, +tranquil, and sober life, which they never suffer passing events to +disturb; they have no ambition to join their more restless and +enterprising countrymen, who have made themselves masters of Alorie +and Raka, nor even to meddle in the private or public concerns of +their near neighbours of Keeshee. Indeed, they have kept themselves +apart and distinct from all; they have retained the language of their +fathers, and the simplicity of their manners, and their existence +glides serenely and happily away, in the enjoyment of domestic +pleasures and social tenderness, which are not always found in +civilized society, and which are unknown among their roving +countrymen. They are on the best possible terms with their neighbours +like the Fellatas at Bohoo and by them are held in great respect. + +The governor of Keeshee was a Borgoo man, and boasted of being the +friend of Yarro, chief of Kiama, but as the old man told them many +wonderful stories of the number of towns under his sway, his amazing +great influence, and the entire subjection in which his own people +were kept by his own good government, all of which was listened to +with patience; they were inclined to believe that the pretensions of +the governor were as hollow as they were improbable. As to his +government, he gave them a specimen of it, by bawling to a group of +children that had followed their steps into the yard, ordering them +to go about their business. But every one in this country displayed +the same kind of ridiculous vanity, and in the majority of towns +which they visited, it was the first great care of their chiefs, to +impress on their minds an idea of their vast importance, which in +many instances was contradicted by their ragged tobes and squalid +appearance. Yet, if their own accounts were to be credited, their +affluence and power were unbounded. All truth is sacrificed to this +feeling of vanity and vain glory; and considering that in most cases +they hold truth in great reverence, they render themselves truly +ridiculous by their absurd practice of boasting; every circumstance +around them tending to contradict it. In the case of the Landers, +however, these toasters had to deal with strangers, and with white +men, and perhaps it may be considered as natural, amongst simple +barbarians, to court admiration and applause, even if no other means +were employed than falsehood and exaggeration. After a deal of +talking, tending to no particular subject, from which any useful +information could be obtained, the governor of Keeshee begged the +favour of a little rum and medicine to heal his foot, which was +inclined to swell and give him pain; and another request which he +made was, that they would repair a gun, which had been deprived of +its stock by fire. He then sung them a doleful ditty, not in praise +of female beauty, as is the practice with the songsters of England, +but it was in praise of elephants and their teeth, in which he was +assisted by his cane bearer, and afterwards took his leave. They +received little presents of goora nuts, salt, honey, mi-cadamia, +butter, &c., from several inhabitants of the place. + +Some mallams and others, who wished to accompany the Landers to +Kiama, whither they were going for the purposes of trade, persuaded +the easy-minded governor on the preceding night, to defer getting +their carriers until the following day, because, forsooth, they were +not themselves wholly prepared to travel on that day. They were, +therefore, obliged to wait the further pleasure of these influential +merchants. Thus balked in their expectations, after their luggage had +all been packed up for starting, Richard Lander attempted to amuse +himself early in the morning, by scrambling to the top of the high +and steep hill, which stood in the middle of the town. In his +progress, he disturbed a tiger-cat from his retreat amongst the +rocks, but he was rewarded for his labour by an extensive and +agreeable prospect from the summit of the mountain, which he found to +consist of large blocks of white marble. The town with its double +wall, perforated with holes for the bowmen to shoot through, lay at +his feet, and several little rural villages studded the country on +every side. The governor of Keshee was so old and infirm, that it was +evident he had not many years to live. A lotion was given him for his +swollen foot, which greatly elated a few of his attendants, and their +animated looks and gestures bespoke hearts overflowing with +gratitude, so much so indeed, that it was remarked as a circumstance +of very rare occurrence. The cause of these grateful feelings was, +however, soon explained to them, for early in the morning, they were +visited by a young man, who had particularly distinguished himself in +his expressions of gratitude, but who now put on such a rueful +countenance, and spoke in a tone so low and melancholy, that his +whole appearance was completely altered, insomuch that it was +supposed some great calamity had befallen him. The cause of it was +soon explained, by his informing them that he would be doomed to die, +with two companions, as soon as their governor's dissolution should +take place; and as the old man had already one foot in the grave, the +sadness of the poor fellow was not to be wondered at. When this same +individual and his associates observed Richard Lander giving the +lotion to their master on the preceding day, they imagined it would +prolong his existence, and consequently lengthen their own, and hence +arose that burst of feeling which had attracted their attention. The +people here imagined that the Landers could do anything, but more +especially that they were acquainted with, and could cure all the +complaints and disorders to which man is liable. + +During the day, the governor solicited from Richard Lander a charm to +protect his house from fire, and to enable him to amass riches, while +one of his elderly wives made a doleful complaint of having been +likely to become a mother for the last thirty years, and begged +piteously for medicine to promote and assist her accouchement. It was +easy enough to satisfy the old man; but it was conceived that the +hypochondriacal complaint of his wife, was too dangerous to be +meddled with by unprofessional hands. Poor woman! she was much to be +pitied, for the odd delusion under which she had been labouring for +some time, had given her considerable uneasiness, so that life itself +became a burden to her. All that Richard Lander, her medical adviser, +could do for her, was to soothe her mind, by telling her that her +distemper was very common, and not at all dangerous; and he promised +her that on their return to Keeshee, should nothing transpire in her +favour in the mean time, he would endeavour to remove the cause of +her complaint. This comforted the aged matron exceedingly, and in the +fulness of her heart, she burst into tears of joy, dropped on her +knees to express her acknowledgments, and pressed them to accept a +couple of goora nuts. + +Their engaging female friends, the Fellatas, paid them a second visit +this morning, with bowls of milk and foorah; and in the evening, a +few of their male companions also came, and remained with them a +considerable time. Both sexes displayed the same timid reserve in +their presence, and deported themselves in the same respectful manner +as they did on the preceding day. It appeared that the Fellatas +inhabiting Acba, though very numerous, are but one family, for the +Landers were informed, that their ancestor separated himself from +his friends, relatives, and acquaintances, and exiling himself for +ever from his native country, he travelled hither with his wives and +children, his flocks and herds. The sons and daughters of his +descendants intermarry only among their own kindred, and they are +betrothed to each other in infancy and childhood. The little that +they saw of the Fellatas in Yarriba, soon convinced them that in all +things they were much, very much superior to the loveless and +unsocial proprietors of the soil. Their countenances bespoke more +intelligence, and their manners displayed less roughness and +barbarism. The domestic virtues of the Fellatas are also more +affectionate and endearing, and their family regulations more chaste +and binding. + +On Wednesday the 26th May, they rose before sunset, and having little +to do in the way of preparation for setting out, they took a hasty +breakfast, and afterwards went to pay their respects to the governor, +and thank him for his hospitality and kindness to them. The parting +with the interesting female natives, shall be related in Lander's own +words. "On returning to our lodgings, we had the pleasure of +receiving the morning salutation of our fair friends, the Fellatas, +on bended knee. Resolved to have another and a last chat with the +white strangers, these females had come for the purpose of offering +us two calabashes of new milk. This, and former little acts of +kindness, which we have received from these dark-eyed maidens, have +effectually won our regard, because we know they were +disinterestedly given, and the few minutes which we have had the +happiness of spending in their company, and that of their countrymen, +have redeemed many hours of listlessness and melancholy, which +absence from our native country, and thoughts of home and friends but +too often excite in our breasts. It was not, therefore, without a +feeling of sorrow that we bade them adieu. For my own part, when they +blessed me in the name of Allah and their prophet, and implored +blessings on my head, and when I gazed upon the faces of the +simple-hearted and innocent females, who had so piously and fervently +invoked the benediction, with the consciousness of beholding them no +more in this life, my heart was touched with sorrow, for of all +reflections, this is certainly the most melancholy and dispiriting." + +"Ye, who have known what 'tis to dote upon +A few dear objects, will in sadness feel +Such partings break the heart they fondly hoped to heal." + +There was far less feeling and tenderness, though more words and much +greater noise in taking their farewell of the two old messengers that +had accompanied them from Badagry, and who, with their Jenna guides, +were to return home on the following day. They had behaved throughout +the whole of the journey to the entire satisfaction of the Landers, +and because they had been their companions on a long and painful +journey, and because their faces had become familiarized to them, +that they left them behind with sincere regret. + +Although they left Keeshee between six and seven in the morning, they +were obliged to seat themselves on a green turf in the outskirts of +the town, and wait there till a quarter after nine before the +carriers with the luggage made their appearance. Here they were +joined by a Borgoo fatakie, and their ears were saluted with the +hoarse, dull sounds of their drum, which was played by a ragged young +Yarribean, long after they were on their journey. A company of +merchants travelling through the country has always a drummer in +their pay, who walks at the head of the party, and performs on his +instrument continually, be the journey ever so long, for the purpose +of animating the slaves to quicken their steps. + +Their route lay through a vast and lonely forest, infested by a band +of robbers and in which there is not a single human habitation. John +Lander went unarmed before the fatakie, and travelled alone, whilst +Richard remained behind to defend the carriers, in case of necessity. +He had already ridden some distance in advance of them, when about +twenty very suspicious-looking fellows, armed with lances, bows, and +arrows, suddenly made their appearance from behind the trees, where +they had concealed themselves, and stood in the middle of the path, +before the men with the luggage, who were so terrified that they were +prepared to drop their burdens and run away. His gun being loaded, +Richard Lander levelled it at them, and had nearly discharged it at +their leader, which intimidated them all so much, that they retreated +again into the heart of the forest. When the people of Yarriba +observe any one approaching them on the road, whose appearance +inspires them with apprehension as to the honesty of their +intentions, they fling off their loads without waiting the result of +the meeting, and take to their heels without venturing to look behind +them. The robbers, therefore, when they saw the fatakie, no doubt +expected to obtain an easy booty, not anticipating to find a white +man amongst them, nor thinking that their carriers would have made +a stand. + +They journeyed fifteen miles through this dreaded forest, which +occupied them five hours and three quarters, owing to the weakness of +their horses, and want of water, but above all to the oppressive heat +of the weather, from which they all suffered more or less. They then +arrived at the Moussa, which is a rivulet, separating the kingdom of +Yarriba from Borgoo. Having satisfied their thirst and bathed, they +crossed the stream, and entered a little village on the northern +bank, where they halted for the day. + +When travelling in the bush, several men in the train of a fatakie +wear a large iron ring on the thumb and middle finger; to the latter +a piece of plate iron is attached, with which they make signals to +each other, and the fatakie, when apart, by clinking the rings. This +method of communication is very significant, and it is understood as +well, and is as promptly answered or obeyed, as the boatswain's +whistle on board a ship. The collision of the rings produces a harsh, +grating noise, loud enough to be heard at a considerable distance. + +The mere crossing of a little stream, which a person might almost +have jumped over, introduced them into a country very different from +Yarriba, which was inhabited by a different people, speaking a +different language, professing a different religion, and whose +manners, customs, amusements, and pursuits were altogether different. + +The village in which they halted was called Moussa, after the river, +and is distant from Keeshee, in a northerly direction, as nearly as +they could guess, about sixteen miles. The Landers occupied a large +round hut, called by the natives of that country _catamba_, in the +Houssa language _sowley_, and in the Bornou _coozie_. In the centre +of it is the trunk of a large tree, which supports the roof; it has +two apertures for doors, which are opposite each other, and directly +over them, suspended from the wall, are a couple of charms, written +in the Arabic character on bits of paper, which are to preserve the +premises from being destroyed by fire. + +It was now eleven o'clock at night; their attendants were reposing on +mats and skins in various parts of the hut. Bows and arrows and +quivers ornamented with cows' tails, together with muskets, pistols, +swords, lances, and other weapons, were either hanging on the wall or +resting against it. The scene was wild and singular, and quite +bordering on, if not really romantic. Outside the hut it was still +more striking: there, though it rained and thundered, the remainder +of the fatakie, consisting of men, women, and children, were sitting +on the ground in groups, or sleeping near several large fires, which +were burning almost close to the hut, whilst others were lying under +the shelter of large spreading trees in its immediate vicinity. The +only apparel which they wear, was drawn over their half-naked +persons, their weapons were at their sides, and their horses were +grazing near them. Most of the people retired to rest without food, +yet they slept soundly, and appeared quite happy and comfortable +after their day's exertion and fatigue. One of the men fainted on the +road from exhaustion, and remained very feverish and unwell. + +At day break on the following day, the travellers pursued their +course, and as Lander expresses himself, there wore a sweetness in +the mountain air, and a freshness in the morning, which they +experienced with considerable pleasure, on ascending the hills, which +bordered the northern side of the pretty little Moussa. When wild +beasts tired with their nightly prowling, seek retirement and repose +in the lonely depths of these primeval forests, and when birds +perched in the branches of the trees over their heads, warbled forth +their morning song, it is the time, that makes up for the languid, +wearisome hours in the heat of the day, when nothing could amuse or +interest them. It is in the earlier part of the morning too, or in +the cool of the evening, that nature can be leisurely contemplated +and admired in the simple loveliness of a verdant plain, a +sequestered grotto, or a rippling brook, or in the wilder and more +mysterious features of her beauty in the height of a craggy +precipice, the silence and gloom of vast shady woods, or when those +woods are gracefully bending to the passing gale. + +An hour's ride brought them near to the site of a town, which was +formerly peopled only by robbers. It was, however destroyed some +years ago, and its inhabitants either slain or dispersed, by order of +the spirited ruler of Kiama, since which time the road has been less +dreaded by travellers. Their path lay through a rich country covered +with luxuriant grasses and fine trees, but very little underwood +could be seen. It abounded with deer and antelopes, and other wild +animals of a more ferocious nature; such as the lion, the leopard, +the elephant, the wild ass, &c., but the solitary lowing of the +buffalo was the only sound that was distinguished in the forest, +although they had not the pleasure of meeting even with that animal. + +At eleven o'clock, they entered a very small, cleanly-looking +village, where they halted for the day. Unfortunately the governor +with most of his people were at work in the fields at some distance, +so that they could not get any thing to eat till rather late in the +evening. It appeared that these poor villagers were forced to supply +the soldiers of their sovereign with provisions, gratis, whenever +business led them so far that way from the capital; and that in order +to avoid the rapacity of these men, they built for themselves another +hamlet in the woods, far out of the way of the path, whither they +carry their goats, &c. and the corn of which they may not be in +immediate want. + +On their arrival they were introduced into a small grass hut, which +the smoke had changed into the most glossy black, which could +possibly be seen; the interior of the roof was also ingeniously +decorated with large festoons of cobwebs and dust, which must have +been allowed to accumulate for a number of years. Its fetish was a +dried grasshopper, which was preserved in a little calabash, but upon +the supposition that this was insufficient to protect it from all the +danger to which huts in that country are constantly exposed, +auxiliary charms of blood and feathers are likewise stuck inside of +the wall. At sun-set, not having any thing to eat, Richard Lander +went out with his gun into the woods, and was fortunate enough to +shoot a few doves, and Pascoe, who went in a different direction, +shot a guinea hen, which made them an excellent supper. Hunger had +driven back their Keeshee carriers, who were to have accompanied them +to Kiama, and therefore they were obliged to send a messenger to +Yarro for men to supply their place. Late in the evening, the +governor of the village returned from his labour in the fields, and +presented them with corn and honey. + +On the forenoon of Friday the 28th, the musical jingling of little +bells announced the approach of a body of horsemen, who in less than +a minute galloped up to their hut, and saluted them one after another +with a martial air, by brandishing their spears, to their great +discomfiture, within a few feet of their faces. To display their +horsemanship more effectually, they caused their spirited steeds to +prance and rear in their presence, and when they imagined they were +convinced of their abilities, they dismounted to prostrate themselves +before them, and acquainted them of the welfare of their prince. The +carriers who had arrived from Kiama, had preceded them on the road, +and the whole of the men then sat down to partake of a little +refreshment. It was twelve o'clock exactly when they set out on their +journey, and the day being so far advanced, they wished to make all +the haste possible, but the weather was extremely warm, and their +horses were hardly strong enough to carry their riders, so that they +were obliged after all to travel very slowly. At five o'clock in the +afternoon, they reached the ruins of a small town. The path was +through the same forest as they had travelled through on the +preceding day, but this part of it was less thickly wooded. At one +place they remarked two immensely large trees, springing up almost +close together, their mighty trunks and branches were twisted, and +firmly clasped round each other, like giants in the act of embracing, +and presented an appearance highly novel and singular. Ant hills were +numerous on the road; and a few paces from it, they observed, as they +rode along, little cone-shaped mud buildings, erected by the natives +for the purpose of smelting iron ore, which is found in abundance in +different parts of the country. + +At sunset they arrived at a village called Benikenny, which means in +the language of the people, (a cunning man;) and they found there +three women waiting their arrival, with corn and milk from the king +of Kiama: this was very acceptable, for they had been without food +for thirteen hours. They rested at Benikenny a little while, and +fully expected to have slept there, for the afternoon had been +excessively warm, and they were all much fatigued. It appears, +however, that their armed escort were not in the same way of thinking +as themselves, and they encouraged them to proceed to another +village, which they said was at no great distance. They, therefore, +quitted Benikenny, yet no village could be seen, and then the escort +confessed that they had deceived them, in order that they might +arrive at Kiama before night. The sun had gone down on their quitting +the halting place, but the moon and stars supplied them with a cooler +and more agreeable light, and they journeyed on through the forest +more slowly than before. In spite of their fatigue, they could not +help admiring the serenity and beauty of the evening, nor be +insensible to the delicious fragrance shed around from trees and +shrubs. The appearance of their warlike and romantic escort, was also +highly amusing. They were clad in the fashion of the east, and sought +their way between the trees on their right and left; but sometimes +they fell in their rear, and then again dashed suddenly by them with +astonishing swiftness, looking as wild as the scenery through which +their chargers bounded. The effect was rendered more imposing by the +reflection of the moon-beams from their polished spears, and the +pieces of silver which were affixed to their caps; while the luminous +firefly appeared in the air like rising and falling particles of +flame. + +John Lander's horse was unable from weakness and exhaustion to carry +him further than Benikenny, so that he was obliged to walk the +remainder of the journey to Kiama, which was full six miles. About +eight o'clock, Kiama appeared before them, and in a few minutes they +entered the city, and rode directly to the king's house. He came out +to receive them, after having waited outside a very short time, and +welcomed them with much satisfaction and good will. He was an elderly +man, almost toothless, and had a beard as white as wool. Nothing +remarkable was observed in his dress or appearance. His first +question was respecting the health of their sovereign, and his second +and last respecting their own welfare. He seemed to be exceedingly +well pleased at seeing Richard Lander again. They then took their +leave, and were conducted by one of his slaves to a hut, or rather an +assemblage of huts, adjoining his own residence. The huts, however, +were not entirely to their satisfaction, for many of them had only +one aperture in each, which was scarcely three feet square, so that +they could not get into them excepting on their hands and knees. They +were, besides, so very warm and close, that they found great +difficulty in breathing, and in consequence they preferred a hut +which was cooler and better ventilated, though it had the +inconvenience of a thoroughfare. No sooner were they securely housed, +than half a dozen of the king's wives introduced themselves with huge +calabashes of sour milk, fried pancakes, and beef stewed in rice, the +first they had yet seen. Variously coloured mats, of excellent +workmanship, were afterwards brought for their use, and with thankful +hearts and comfortable feelings, they laid themselves down to rest. + + + +CHAPTER XXXIV. + +Fatigued with the journey of the preceding day, the travellers lay on +their mats rather later than usual, and before they had risen, the +king's messengers and others entered their hut to give them the +salutations of the morning. Richard Lander returned Yarro's +compliment, by calling to see him at his own house, while his brother +remained at home to take care of the goods. The natives of the +country having a very indifferent reputation for honesty, compelled +them to keep a watchful eye over all their actions. A number of +mallams from Houssa paid them a visit about the middle of the day, +but a body of more ignorant Mahommedans, it was supposed, could no +where be found, for not one of them, even to their chief, who had a +youthful appearance, understood a word of Arabic. + +Just before sunset, John Lander selected a present, consisting of the +following articles for the king: viz. six yards of red cloth, a +quantity of printed cottons, a pair of silver bracelets, a +looking-glass, two pair of scissors, a knife, two combs, and a +tobacco pipe. The goods having been properly secured, they repaired +with this present to the king, who received it with much apparent +satisfaction. + +Yarro professed the mahommedan faith, yet it was easy to perceive the +very slender acquaintance he had obtained of the precepts of the +Koran, by the confidence which he placed in the religion of his +fathers, in placing fetishes to guard the entrance of his houses, and +adorn their half-naked walls. In one of these huts, they observed a +stool of very curious workmanship. The form of it was nearly square; +the two principal figures were each supported by four little wooden +figures of men, and another of large dimensions, seated on a clumsy +representation of a hippopotamus, was placed between them. These +images were subsequently presented to the Landers by Yarro; and they +learnt that the natives, before undertaking any water excursion, +applied for protection to the hippopotami, and other dangerous +objects of the river, to the principal figure, which was mounted on +one of those creatures. This important personage was attended by his +musicians, and guarded by soldiers, some armed with muskets, and +others with bows and arrows, who formed the legs of the stool. + +In the inner apartment they discovered Yarro sitting alone, on +buffalo hides, and they were desired to place themselves near him. +The walls of this apartment were adorned with very good prints of +George IV., the Duke of York, Lord Nelson, the Duke of Wellington on +horseback, together with an officer of the light dragoons, in company +with a smartly dressed and happy looking English lady. Opposite to +them were hung horse accoutrements, and on each side were dirty +scraps of paper, containing select sentences from the Koran. On the +floor lay muskets, several handsomely ornamented lances, and other +weapons, all confusedly heaped together, by the side of a large +granite stone used for pounding pepper. These were the most striking +objects they observed in the king's hut, adjoining which were others, +through whose diminutive doors, the wives of Yarro were straining +their eyes to catch a glimpse of the white men. + +When Lander spoke of proceeding to Yaoorie by way of Wowow and +Boussa, the king objected to their visiting, the former state, under +any condition whatever; alleging that three of the slaves who carried +the goods for Captain Clapperton, had never returned to him again, +but had remained at Wowow, where they were protected by the governor +Mahommed, and that if he should send others with them to that place, +they might do the same thing. He, therefore, promised to send them to +Boosa in four days by another road. Independently of the above +considerations, the king was highly incensed against the ruler of +Wowow for his harsh treatment of the widow Zuma, who was his friend +and relative, and who had lately fled to Boosa for the purpose of +claiming the protection of the king of that country. + +It was reported that Yarro's father, the late king of Kiama, during +his life time had enjoyed the friendship of an Arab from the desert, +which was returned with equal warmth and sincerity. A similarity of +dispositions and pursuits produced a mutual interchange of kind +actions; their friendship became so great that the king was never +happy except when in the Arab's company, and as a proof of his esteem +and confidence, he gave him his favourite daughter in marriage. The +fruit of this alliance was the restless widow Zuma, and hence her +relationship to the then reigning monarch of Kiama. The friendship of +his father and the Arab lasted until the death of the latter. The +king, however, was inconsolable for his loss, and looked round him in +vain for some one to supply the place of his friend, but the ardour +of his affection was too strong, and held by the hope of following +his friend to another world, he committed suicide. This was the most +affecting instance of genuine friendship, and indeed the only one, +that came to the hearing of the travellers since they had been in the +country. Yarro was much attached to the widow Zuma, and she would +have fled to Kiama, instead of going to Boosa, if her intentions had +not been suspected, and her actions narrowly watched by the ruler of +Wowow. + +Unwilling as the Landers always were to infringe upon the observance +of the Sabbath, they were nevertheless compelled on Sunday, May 30th, +to submit to the mortification of cleaning and polishing a sword and +pistol, which were sent them for that purpose by the king, against +the approaching mahommedan festival. Yarro shortly afterwards sent +them a turkey, and one of his women presented them with a roasted +badger, a quantity of yams, &c. for the use of one of their people. +On this evening, the wives of the king unanimously bestowed a severe +reprimand on their royal husband for neglecting to offer them a +portion of a bottle of rum, which was given to him on the preceding +day. The ladies scolded so lustily, that the noise was heard outside +the wall surrounding their huts, which led them to make the +discovery. To appease the indignation of the irascible ladies, and to +reconcile them to the loss of so great a dainty as a glass of rum, +they were presented with a few beads, and some other trifles, but +still it was evident that these fancy articles bore no comparison in +the eyes of the ladies with the exquisite relish of the spirituous +liquid. + +It was generally supposed that the ruler of Wowow would make war on +this state, as soon as he should be made acquainted with the fact of +the Landers being at Borgoo, without having paid him a visit. +Although it was within the dominions of the king of Boossa, who was +acknowledged to be the greatest of the sovereigns of Borgoo, Wowow +was reported to have lately received a body of Nouffie horse +soldiers, consisting of eight hundred men, which rendered its chief +more powerful than either of his neighbours. These soldiers were the +remnant of the army of Ederisa, (the Edrisi of Clapperton) who was +the rightful heir to the throne of Nouffie; they deserted him in his +misfortunes, and sought a refuge in Wowow from the fury of their +successful countrymen, leaving their leader to his fate. Shortly +after the return of Richard Lander to England from his expedition +with Captain Clapperton, it was reported that Magia, who was a +younger son of the late king of Nouffie, was reinforced by the +soldiers from Soccatoo; that he took immediate advantage of the panic +into which this intelligence had thrown his brother, by attacking and +routing his army, and expelling both him, and them from their native +country. Ederisa was for some time after a wanderer, but at length he +was said to have found an asylum with one of the chiefs of a state +near the kingdom of Benin where he continued to reside in +tranquillity and retirement. + +They received visits almost every hour of the day from a number of +mahommedan mallams residing at Kiama, as well as from those +merchants, who formed part of the fatakie that accompanied them +through the forest from Keeshee. The former sent two boys to pray for +them, in the expectation, it was supposed, of obtaining something +more substantial than thanks, for the good that might result to them +from their charitable remembrance of the frailty of their nature. The +boys dropped on their knees, and recited the lesson that they had +been taught, without committing a single blunder. A few needles were, +however, the only recompense it was thought proper to make them, so +that it was not likely their masters would desire any more prayers to +be offered up at the shrine of their prophet, for Christians so +illiberal and irreligious. Of all the vices of which these mahommedan +priests were guilty, and by all accounts they were not a few, slander +and defamation appeared to be by far the most general. Never did they +hear a mallam speak of his neighbours in terms of common respect. +According to his account they were all the vilest creatures under the +sun, not one escaping the lash of his censure. "Avoid that man," said +a complaisant and comfortable looking old Mahommedan, pointing to +one of his companions, as he quitted the hut, after having just +blessed him in the name of Allah, "for believe me, he will take every +opportunity of deceiving you, and if you go so far as to trust him +with any of your property, he will cheat you of every kowrie." + +The venerable speaker had a number of gilt buttons, nearly new, in +his possession, which they had given him to sell, for they were +frequently obliged to make such shifts for a meal, and when his +invective was finished, he arose to take his leave, but the +self-righteous priest had neglected, in the hurry of discourse, to +secure a few buttons which he had purloined, for as he stood up they +dropped from the folds of his garment on the floor. The man's +confusion was immediately apparent, but they did not wish to punish +him further by increasing his shame, and they suffered him to go +about his business, in the belief that the circumstance had wholly +escaped their observation. Gilt buttons fetch a high price at Kiama, +from two to three hundred kowries each, and as they had a great +number of them, it was likely that from henceforth they would be of +infinite service to them. Women use buttons to ornament their +fingers, necks, and wrists, and they imagine that the brightest of +them are made of gold. + +A messenger arrived this day at the king's house with the +information, that Doncasson, the ex-king of Houssa, had recently +taken no less than twelve towns in that empire from the Fellatas, in +which he had been greatly assisted by the sheik of Bornou. The +Fellatas have a tradition, that when Danfodio, Bello's father, and +the first king of Soccatoo, was a simple shepherd, he made a vow to +the great author of evil, that if he would assist him in the +subjugating the kingdom of Houssa, he would be his slave for ever +after. The request of Danfodio, it is reported, was complied with on +his own conditions, but for no longer than thirty years, after which +the aborigines of the country were to regain their liberty, and +re-establish their ancient laws and institutions. The term was now +nearly expired, and the Fellatas began already, said the Houssa men, +to tremble with apprehensions at the prospect of this tradition being +realized. + +June 1st, was the eve of the Bebun Sàlah, or great prayer day, and +which is generally employed by the Mussulmans in Kiama, in making +preparations for a festival which was to commence on the following +day, and to be continued till the evening of the ensuing day. Every +one in the town, who is in possession of the means, is obliged to +slaughter either a bullock or a sheep on the anniversary of this day, +and those who are not in possession of money sufficient to procure a +whole bullock or sheep, are compelled to purchase a portion of the +latter, at least, for the purpose of showing respect and reverence +for the "Bebun Sàlah." The Mahommedans make a practice on this +occasion of slaughtering the sheep, which may have been their +companion in their peregrinations during the past year, and as soon +as the holidays are over, they procure another to supply its place, +and at the return of the festival, to undergo a similar fate. The +company of one of these animals is preferred by the natives to that +of a dog. + +On the following morning a company of eight or ten drummers awoke +them by the dismal noise of their drums, and by the exclamation of +"_turawa au, azhie_," signifying, "white men, we wish you fortune," +which was repeated in a high shrill tone every minute. + +During the night, Kiama was visited by a thunder storm, which +continued with dreadful violence for many hours, and the torrents of +rain which fell, threatened to overwhelm them in their huts. Before +they were aware of it, the water had rushed in at the door, and had +completely soaked their mats and bedclothes, setting every light +article in the room afloat. After much trouble they succeeded in +draining it off, and prevented its further ingress, when they lit a +large fire in the centre of the hut, and laid themselves down by the +side of it to sleep. Towards morning it also rained heavily again, +and to all appearances the wet season had at length fairly set in. +Under those circumstances, it would be found almost next to +impossible to travel much further, and if they were fortunate to +reach Yaoorie, they would be obliged to remain there some time, till +the roads should have become sufficiently hard and dry for their +future progress. Their chief hope was, that the rains might not be so +incessant at their commencement, so as to render the path to Yaoorie +impassable. + +On Wednesday June 2nd, the threatening appearance of the weather +prevented the Mahommedans from repairing to the spot, which they had +selected for the purposes of devotion, so early in the morning as +they, could have wished, but the clouds having dispersed, they had +all assembled there between the hours of nine and ten. + +The worshippers arranged themselves in six lines or rows, the women +forming the last, and sat down on as many ridges of earth, which had +apparently been thrown up for the purpose. The chief mallam no sooner +began a prayer, than the talking and noise of the multitude ceased, +and the deepest attention seemed to be paid by every one, though the +substance of what he said could only be guessed at, because it was in +Arabic, which none of them understood a word of. The ceremony much +resembled that which was performed at Badagry; and the forms, which +are generally practised, it is supposed, on all public religious +meetings in mahommedan countries, such as ablution, prostration, &c., +were observed on this occasion. The king, however, did not rise, as +he should have done, when the worshippers stood up, but satisfied +himself with uttering the name of Allah, and by simple prostration +only. When the usual form of prayer had been gone through, the chief +mallam placed himself on a hillock, and for about five minutes read +to the people a few loose pages of the Koran, which he held in his +hand. While thus engaged, two priests of inferior order knelt beside +him to hold the hem of his tobe, and a third, in the same position, +held the skirts from behind. After he had finished reading, the +priest descended from the hillock, and with the help of his +assistants, slaughtered a sheep which had been bound and brought to +him for sacrifice. The blood of the animal was caught in a calabash, +and the king and the more devoted of his subjects washed their hands +in it, and sprinkled some of it on the ground. The conclusion of the +ceremony was announced by the discharge of a few old muskets, and +with drums beating and fifes playing, the people returned to their +respective homes. The majority of them were smartly dressed in all +the finery they could procure. About a hundred of the men rode on +horseback, with lances and other weapons in their hands, which, with +the gay trappings of the horses, gave them a respectable appearance. + +In the afternoon, all the inhabitants of the town, and many from the +little villages in the neighbourhood, assembled to witness the horse +racing, which always takes place on the anniversary of the Belun +Sàlah, and to which every one had been looking forward with the +greatest impatience. Previously to its commencement, the king with +his principal attendants rode slowly on round the town, more for the +purpose of receiving the admiration and plaudits of his people, than +to observe where distress more particularly prevailed, which was his +avowed intention. In this respect we do not see that the African +kings are a jot worse than the Europeans; it is true, indeed, that +the African monarch has in some measure the advantage over the +European, for we have never heard that any European king, +particularly an English one, ever even conceived the idea of parading +the town in which he might reside, for the purpose of finding and +relieving the distressed, but when he does condescend to show himself +amongst the people, to whom he is indebted for the victuals which he +eats, it is for the purpose of attending some state mummery, or +seeing a number of human beings standing in a row, with the weapons +of murder in their hands, but which, when called into action to +gratify the senseless ambition of the said king, is called privileged +homicide. An inspection of these human machines is called a review; +were some kings to institute a review of their own actions, it would +be better for themselves, and better for the people, to whom a blind +and stupid fortune has given him as their log. + +The kings of Africa, like other kings, attach a great importance to a +great noise, called a salute, and, therefore, a hint was given to the +Landers to bring their pistols with them to the race course, that +they might salute the king as he rode by them; a salute is the same +thing, whether it be from a pop-gun or a two and thirty pounder, for +all salutes generally end in smoke, which shows their folly and +insignificance. The Landers felt a strong inclination to witness the +amusements of the day, and they arrived at the course rather sooner +than was necessary, which, however, afforded them a fairer +opportunity of observing the various groups of people, which were +flocking to the scene of amusement. + +The race course was bounded on the north by low granite hills, on the +south by a forest, and on the east and west by tall shady trees; +amongst which, were habitations of the people. Under the shadow of +these magnificent trees, the spectators were assembled, and testified +their happiness by their noisy mirth and animated gestures. When the +Landers arrived, the king had not yet made his appearance on the +course, but his absence was fully compensated by the pleasure they +derived from watching the anxious and animated countenances of the +multitude, and in passing their opinions on the taste of the women in +the choice and adjustment of their fanciful and many coloured +dresses. The wives and younger children of the chief, sat near them +in a group by themselves, and were distinguished from their +companions by their superior dress. Manchester cloths of an inferior +quality, but of the most showy patterns, and dresses made of common +English bed-furniture, were fastened round the waist of several sooty +maidens, who, for the sake of fluttering a short hour in the gaze of +their countrymen, had sacrificed in clothes the earnings of a twelve +months labour. All the women had ornamented their necks with strings +of beads, and their wrists with bracelets of various patterns, some +made of glass beads, some of brass, and others of copper, and some +again of a mixture of both metals; their ankles were also adorned +with different sorts of rings, of neat workmanship. + +The distant sound of drums gave notice of the king's approach, and +every eye was immediately directed to the quarter whence he was +expected. The cavalcade shortly appeared, and four horsemen first +drew up in front of the chiefs house, which was near the centre of +the course, and close to the spot where his wives and children, and +themselves were sitting. Several men bearing on their heads an +immense number of arrows in large quivers of leopard's skin, came +next, followed by two persons, who, by their extraordinary antics and +gestures, were concluded to be buffoons. These two last were employed +in throwing sticks into the air as they went on, and adroitly +catching them in falling, besides performing many whimsical and +ridiculous feats. Behind them, and immediately preceding the king, a +group of little boys nearly naked, came dancing merrily along, +flourishing cows' tails over their heads in all directions. + +The king rode onwards, followed by a number of fine-looking men, on +handsome steeds, and the motley cavalcade all drew up in front of his +house, where they awaited his further orders without dismounting. +This the Landers thought was the proper time to give the first +salute, so they accordingly fired three rounds, and their example was +immediately followed by two soldiers with muskets, which were made at +least a century and a half ago, nevertheless, they yielded fire, +smoke, noise, and a stink, which are in general the component parts +of all royal salutes. + +Preparations in the mean time had been going on for the race, and the +horses with their riders made their appearance. The men were dressed +in caps, and loose tobes and trousers of every colour; boots of red +morocco leather, and turbans of white and blue cotton. Their horses +were gaily caparisoned; strings of little brass bells covered their +heads; their breasts were ornamented with bright red cloth and +tassels of silk and cotton, a large guilted pad of neatly embroidered +patchwork was placed under the saddle of each; and little charms, +inclosed in red and yellow cloth were attached to the bridle with +bits of tinsel. The Arab saddle and stirrup were in common use, and +the whole group presented an imposing appearance. + +The signal for starting was made, and the impatient animals sprung +forward, and set off at a full gallop. The riders brandished their +spears, the little boys flourished their cow's tail; the buffoons +performed their antics, muskets were discharged, and the chief +himself, mounted on the finest horse on the ground, watched the +progress of the race, while tears of delight were starting from his +eyes. The sun shone gloriously on the tobes of green, white, yellow, +blue, and crimson, as they fluttered in the breeze; and with the +fanciful caps, the glittering spears, the jingling of the horses' +bells, the animated looks and warlike bearing of their riders, +presented one of the most extraordinary and pleasing sights that they +had ever witnessed. The race was well contested, and terminated only +by the horses being fatigued and out of breath; but though every one +was emulous to outstrip his companion, honour and fame were the only +reward of the competitors. + +The king maintained his seat on horseback during these amusements, +without even once dismounting to converse with his wives and +children, who were sitting on the ground on each side of him. His +dress was showy rather than rich, consisting of a red cap, enveloped +in the large folds of a white muslin turban; two under tobes of blue +and scarlet cloth, and an outer one of white muslin; red trousers, +and boots of scarlet and yellow leather. His horse seemed distressed +by the weight of his rider, and the various ornaments and trappings +with which his head, breast, and body were bedecked. The chief's +eldest and youngest sons were near his women and other children, +mounted on two noble-looking horses. The eldest of these youths was +about eleven years of age. The youngest being not more than three, +was held on the back of his animal by a male attendant, as he was +unable to sit upright on the saddle without this assistance. The +child's dress was ill suited to his age. He wore on his head a light +cap of Manchester cotton, but it overhung the upper part of his face, +and together with its ends, which flapped over each cheek, hid nearly +the whole of his countenance from view; his tobe and trousers were +made exactly in the same fashion as those of a man, and two large +belts of blue cotton, which crossed each other, confined the tobe to +his body. The little legs of the child were swallowed up in clumsy +yellow boots, big enough for his father, and though he was rather +pretty, his whimsical dress gave him altogether so odd an appearance, +that he might have been taken for any thing but what he really was. + +A few of the women on the ground by the side of the king wore large +white dresses, which covered their persons like a winding sheet. +Young virgins, according to custom, appeared in a state of nudity; +many of them had wild flowers stuck behind their ears, and strings of +beads, &c., round their loins; but want of clothing did not seem to +damp their pleasure in the entertainment, for they entered with as +much zest as any of their companions. Of the different coloured tobes +worn by the men, none looked so well as those of a deep crimson +colour on some of the horsemen; but the clear white tobes of the +mahommedan priests, of whom not less than a hundred were present on +the occasion, were extremely neat and becoming. The sport terminated +without the slightest accident, and the king dismounting was a signal +for the people to disperse. + + + +CHAPTER XXXV. + +The travellers left Kiama on Saturday June 5th, and arrived at +Kakafungi, the halting place, shortly after ten o'clock in the +morning. The distance from Kiama was about ten miles. It was a +straggling, but extensive and populous town, and was delightfully +situated on an even piece of ground. The inhabitants were so clean +and well behaved, and their dwellings so neat and comfortable, that +before the Landers had spoken many words to one of them, they were +prepossessed in their favour. Nor was this opinion in any degree +lessened, when after they had been introduced into a commodious and +excellent hut, they received the congratulations of the principal +people. They came to them in a body, followed by boys and girls +carrying a present of two kids, with milk and an abundance of pounded +corn, and remained with them the greater part of the day. + +John Lander was here taken seriously ill, and his fever was so severe +that he was obliged to lie on his mat till the carriers were ready to +depart, which took place at two p.m., their path lying through a +perfect wilderness, and presenting a greater degree of barrenness, +than any thing which they had hitherto met with. The length of the +journey, the insufferable heat of the sun, combined with the speed +with which they were obliged to travel, greatly increased the malady +of John Lander. He was occasionally obliged to dismount, and lie on +the ground for relief, being lifted off and replaced on his horse by +their attendants. The two Landers were far behind the rest of the +party, on account of the inability of John Lander to keep pace, and +they discharged a pistol every now and then as a signal to the +carriers of their approach. As each report echoed through the forest, +it was answered by the increased howlings of wild animals, till at +length, they gladly saw the gleam of a large fire, and arrived at the +encampment, which had been prepared for them. Here they took +possession for the night, of a few deserted huts, which were falling +to decay. + +The rest which John Lander had obtained during the night, appeared to +have revived him, and he seemed in better spirits, with an abatement +of his fever. They accordingly proceeded on their journey, and after +bathing, crossed the Oly in a canoe, which they found tied to a tree. +During the whole of the day, they travelled under a burning sun, and +in the evening pitched their tent near a small stream. John Lander +was very ill, his fever having returned with increased violence. A +storm gathered over their heads a few minutes after the tent had been +fixed, and presently burst with increased violence. While it lasted, +they were occupied with the thoughts of their forlorn condition. The +deafening noise of the thunder, as it echoed among the hills, the +overpowering glare of the lightning, the torrents of rain, and the +violence of the wind were truly awful. The whole of their party were +collected in the tent for shelter from the storm, and in spite of the +water which ran through it, contrived to sleep till morning. + +They were obliged to lie the whole of the night in their wet clothes, +the effects of which were visible in John Lander in the morning. His +brother endeavoured, in vain, to rally him, but he was scarcely able +to stand. The tent was packed up in its wet state, and the carriers +hastened onwards as fast as they could, for the provisions were +consumed, and they were anxious to get to their journey's end without +delay. As they advanced, John Lander became worse, till at length, he +was completely overcome, and to prevent falling off his horse, he +dismounted and was laid down. There was not a tree near them, which +could shelter them from the sun, so with the assistance of his +people, Richard obtained a few branches, and formed a sort of bower, +their horses' pads answering the purpose of a bed. During the +remainder of the day, John became worse, and the medicine chest had +been sent with the other things. In this dilemma, with no food at +hand, the condition of the travellers was most deplorable. Richard +with the view of obtaining some refreshment for his brother, went +into the wood and shot the only bird he saw, which was not much +bigger than the sparrow. With this, he returned, made a fire, and +prepared a little soup in a half-pint cup, which for want of salt, +was rather unsavoury, nevertheless it was of service to his brother; +the flesh of the bird, Richard divided between himself and his man, +both of them being weak for want of food. They now contrived to make +a more substantial habitation for the invalid, of some stout branches +of trees, and thatched it with long grass; they also lighted large +fires round it to keep off the wild beasts, but sleep was out of the +question, for they were attacked by myriads of mosquitoes, and +buzzing flies, attracted by the glare of the fires. A prowling tiger +was the only savage animal that approached near enough to be seen +during the night. + +On the following morning, a considerable improvement having taken +place in John Lander's health, they set forward in good spirits, and +shortly after sunset arrived in the vicinity of Coobly, without +experiencing so much fatigue as had been anticipated. Having waited +on the governor, as a matter of courtesy, they were detained but a +few moments, and then repaired to the hut assigned to them, where +John was soon after seized with the return of the fever, more severe +than the former. The governor sent them a bowl of rice, one of milk, +two calabashes of butter, and a fine fat bullock. + +The situation of Richard Lander was now distressing in the extreme, +his brother became hourly worse, and every moment was expected to be +his last. During the few intervals he had from delirium, he seemed to +be aware of his danger, and entered into arrangements respecting his +family concerns. At this moment Richard's feelings were of too +painful a nature to be described. The unhappy fate of his late +master, Clapperton, came forcibly to his mind. He had followed him +into the country, where he perished; he had attended him in his +parting moments; he had performed for him the last mournful office +which our nature requires, and the thought that he should have to go +through the same sad ceremony for his brother, overwhelmed him with +grief. + +Two messengers now arrived from Boossa with a quantity of onions as a +present from the queen. They were commanded by the king to await +their departure from Coobly, and escort them to the city of Boossa, +which was said to be about two days journey from Coobly. + +The illness of John Lander, to the great joy of his brother, now took +a favourable turn, and he became more tranquil and freer from pain, +and preparations were now made for their departure from Coobly. For +some hours before their departure, Richard was greatly annoyed by an +old woman, who applied to him for medicine that would produce her an +entire new set of teeth, or, she, "if I can only be supplied with two +large and strong ones, I shall be satisfied with them." The woman at +last became rather impertinent, when Richard recommended her two iron +ones from the blacksmith, which so much displeased her, that she went +away in a pet. The governor supplied them every day with abundance of +rice and milk, in fact, nothing could surpass his benevolence and +general good humour. + +They quitted Coobly on the 15th June, and on the following morning +entered a snug pretty little town called Zalee, lying in a rich and +romantic valley, formed by a gap in a triple range of elevated hills, +which ran from east to west. The governor sent them a goat, a fowl, a +calabash of rice, and a quantity of corn for the horses. Zalee +contained about a thousand inhabitants. + +Their course from Zalee was in a south-easterly direction, and +shortly after leaving the town, they came to a fine extensive plain, +on which stood a few venerable and magnificent trees. Numerous herds +of antelopes were feeding, which on hearing the report of their guns, +bounded over the plain in all directions. From this place they beheld +the city of Boossa, which lay directly before them at the distance of +two or three miles, and appeared to be formed of straggling clusters +of huts. To their great astonishment, however, on a nearer approach, +Boossa was found to be standing on the _main land_, and not on an +island in the Niger, as described by Captain Clapperton. Nothing +could be discovered, which could warrant the assertion as laid down +by that traveller. At ten o'clock they entered the city by the +western gateway, and discharged their pieces as the signal of their +arrival. + +After waiting a few minutes, they were introduced to the king, whom +they found in an interior apartment of his residence, in company with +the _Midilie_, the title bestowed on his principal wife or queen. +They welcomed the travellers to Boossa, with every appearance of +cordiality. They told them very gravely, and with rueful +countenances, that they had both been weeping in the morning for the +death of Captain Clapperton, whose untimely end they would never +cease to lament. It is true, they might have been so engaged, but as +on their entrance, no outward signs of tears appeared, they rather +mistrusted the information which had been imparted to them. + +On the day subsequently to their arrival, they were visited by the +noted widow Zuma, who presented herself to them without the slightest +pretensions to finery of any kind, either in her dress or ornaments, +for she was clad in very humble apparel of country cloth. She related +to them with great good humour, her quarrels with her prince, the +ruler of Wowow, and her consequent flight from that city to escape +his resentment. It appeared that in order to effect this, she was +actually obliged to climb over the city wall in the night, and travel +on foot to Boossa, which was a very long journey, and to a woman of +her size, must have been an arduous task. She alleged that she had +done nothing whatever to merit the displeasure of the Wowow chief, +notwithstanding which, he had robbed her of all her household +furniture and a number of her slaves. But from another quarter, they +learnt that one of her sons had committed a theft in the city, for +which he would have suffered death, if he had not made his escape +with his mother, who, it was said, had instigated him to the deed. +The widow complained sadly of poverty and the hardness of the times; +she had fought with the Youribeans against Alorie, but instead of +receiving a recompense for her bravery; she had lost half of her +slaves in an engagement, which so disgusted her with the military +profession, that she immediately abandoned it and returned home. Yet +in spite of all her losses and misfortunes, she had gained so much in +corpulency, that it was with the utmost difficulty she could squeeze +herself into the doorway of their hut, although it was by no means +small. The widow Zuma was a very good-looking person of matronly +appearance, and her skin of a light copper colour. + +After the widow had left them, Richard carried the presents which had +been selected for the king and queen. Each appeared delighted with +them, and the former more especially was extravagant in his +expressions of admiration and thankfulness. A pair of silver +bracelets, a tobacco pipe, and a looking-glass, seemed to rivet the +attention of the king, who could not take his eyes off them for a +full half hour, so much was he pleased with them. + +The Landers now visited the far famed Niger or Quorra, which flowed +by the city about a mile from their residence, and were greatly +disappointed at the appearance of this celebrated river. In its +widest part it was not more than a stone's throw across. The rock on +which Richard Lander sat, overlooked the spot where Mr. Park and his +associates met their untimely fate; he could not help meditating on +that circumstance, and on the number of valuable lives that had been +sacrificed in attempting to explore that river, and he secretly +implored the Almighty, that he might be the humble means of setting +at rest for ever the great question of its source and termination. + +The queen of a country is generally the standard of fashion, and +therefore some idea may be formed of the fashions of Boossa, by the +following description of the dress in which the Midikie or queen of +Boossa paid a visit to the Landers. Her majesty was clad in a common +check shirt of Nooffie manufacture, a plain piece of blue cotton was +fastened round her head, wholly concealing the hair, a larger piece +of the same kind was thrown over her left shoulder, and a third tied +round her waist, reached so far as the middle of the leg. Her feet +were bare, as were likewise her arms up to the elbow; a brass ring +ornamented each great toe, and eight silver bracelets each wrist, the +least of them weighing little less than a quarter of a pound. Besides +these ornaments, the queen wore a necklace of coral and bits of gold, +and small pieces of pipe coral were stuck in the lobe of each ear. + +It was the opinion of Lander that it would have been bad policy on +his part, to have stated the true reason of his visiting this +country, knowing the jealousy of most of the people with regard to +the Niger; and, therefore, in answer to the king's inquiries, he was +obliged to deceive him with the assertion, that his object was to go +to Bornou, by way of Yaoorie, requesting at the same time, a safe +conveyance through his territories. This answer satisfied the king, +and he promised them every assistance in his power. In the course of +conversation the king observed that he had in his possession a tobe, +which belonged to a white man, who came from the north many years +ago, and from whom it had been purchased by the king's father. The +Landers expressed a great curiosity to see this tobe, and in a very +short time after the departure of the king, it was sent to them as a +present. Contrary to their expectations, they found it to be made of +rich crimson damask, and very heavy from the immense quantity of gold +embroidery with which it was covered. As the time, when the late king +is said to have purchased this tobe, corresponds very nearly to the +supposed period of Mr. Park's death, and as they never heard of any +other white man having come from the north so far south as Boossa, +they were inclined to believe it part of the spoil obtained from the +canoe of that ill-fated traveller. Whether Mr. Park wore the tobe +himself, which was scarcely possible on account of its weight, or +whether he intended it as a present to a native chief, they were at a +loss to determine. The king himself had never worn the tobe, nor did +his predecessor, from a superstitious feeling; besides, observed the +king, "it might excite the cupidity of the neighbouring powers." + +King George the Third of England was a button-maker, and therefore no +wonder need be excited at the information which was sent to the +Landers from the king of Boossa, announcing to them that his majesty +was a tailor, and that he would thank them much for some thread and a +few needles for his own private use; the king also took it into his +head that as he was a tailor, the Landers must be gunsmiths, and +therefore he sent them his muskets to repair, but it being Sunday +when the guns were sent, they declined the job until the following +day. + +Eager as they were to obtain even the slightest information relative +to the unhappy fate of Mr. Park and his companions, as well as to +ascertain if any of their books or papers were then in existence at +that place, still they had almost made up their minds to refrain from +asking him any questions on the subject, because they were +apprehensive that it might be displeasing to the king, and involve +them in many perplexities. Finding the king, however, to be an +affable, obliging, and good-natured personage, they were emboldened +to send Pascoe to him with a message expressive of the interest they +felt on the subject, in common with all their countrymen, and saying, +that if any books or papers which belonged to Mr. Park were yet in +his possession, he would do them a great service by delivering them +into their hands, or at least granting them permission to see them. +To this, the king returned for answer, that when Mr. Park was lost on +the Niger, he, the king, was a very little boy, and that he knew not +what had become of his effects; that the deplorable event had +occurred in the reign of the late king's predecessor, who died +shortly after, and that all traces of the white men had been lost +with him. + +This answer disappointed the hopes of the Landers, for to them it +appeared final and decisive. But in the evening their hopes were +again excited by a hint from their host, who was the king's drummer, +and one of the principal men in the country; he assured them, that +there was at least one book saved from Mr. Park's canoe, which was +then in the possession of a very poor man in the service of his +master, to whom it had been entrusted by the late king during his +last illness. He said moreover, that if but _one_ application were +made to the king on any subject whatever, very little was thought of +it, but if a second were made, the matter would be considered of +sufficient importance to demand his whole attention; such being the +custom of the country. The drummer therefore recommended them to +persevere in their inquiries, for he had no doubt that something to +their satisfaction would be elicited. At his own request, they sent +him to the king immediately, desiring him to repeat their former +statement, and to assure the king, that should he be successful in +recovering the book they wanted, their monarch would reward him +handsomely. The king desired the drummer to inform them, that he +would use every exertion, and examine the man, who was reported to +have the white man's book in his possession. + +On the following day, the king came to see them, followed by a man +with a book under his arm, which was said to have been picked up in +the Niger after the loss of their countrymen. It was enveloped in a +large cotton cloth, and their hearts beat high with expectation, as +the man was slowly unfolding it, for by its size they guessed it to +be Mr. Park's journal, but their disappointment and chagrin were +great, when on opening the book, they discovered it to be an old +nautical publication of the last century. The title page was missing, +but its contents were chiefly tables of logarithms. It was a thick +royal quarto, which led them to conjecture that it was a journal. +Between the leaves they found a few loose papers of very little +consequence indeed; one of them contained two or three observations +on the height of the water in the Gambia; one was a tailor's bill on +a Mr. Anderson, and another was addressed to Mr. Mungo Park, and +contained an invitation to dine. The following is a copy of it: + +"Mr. and Mrs. Watson would be happy to have the pleasure of Mr. +Park's company at dinner on Tuesday next, at half past five o'clock. + +An answer is requested. + +Strand, 9th Nov. 1804." + +The king, as well as the owner of the book, looked as greatly +mortified as they themselves did, when they were told that the one +produced, was not that of which they were in quest, because the +reward promised would not of course be obtained. As soon as their +curiosity had been fully satisfied, the papers were carefully +collected and placed again between the leaves, and the book as +carefully folded in its envelope as before, and taken away by its +owner, who valued it as much as a household god. Thus all their hopes +of obtaining Mr. Park's journal or papers in the city of Boossa were +entirely defeated. + +At an early hour of Wednesday June 23rd, the king and queen paid the +travellers a farewell visit, when the former particularly cautioned +them against poison. They then expressed their acknowledgements to +both the royal personages for all their favours and an hour or two +after they had taken their departure, the Landers rode out of the +city, accompanied by two horsemen as an escort, and a foot messenger +to the sultan of Yaoorie. They journied along the banks of the Niger +at an easy pace, and two hours afterwards entered a pleasant little +walled town called where they were desired to halt until the +following day the governor of Kagogie had been made acquainted with +their intention, no less than three days before their arrival, yet no +canoe had been got ready for their use, and when they expected to +embark, "the king of the canoe," as the person who has the care of +it, is ridiculously styled, informed them with the utmost unconcern, +that it was out of repair, and that it would not be fit for their +reception for some hours at least. In the course of the afternoon +they repaired to the side of the river, for the purpose of +endeavouring to encourage and hurry the workmen in their labour about +the canoe. Promises and threats were employed to effect this object, +but the men would neither be coaxed nor intimidated--they would not +overwork themselves, they said, for all the riches in their +possession, so that they were obliged to leave them and exercise +their patience. The branch of the Niger which flows by Kagogie, is +about a mile in width, but it is rendered so shallow by large sand +banks, that except in one very narrow place, a child might wade +across it without difficulty. + +About mid-day the workmen having finished the canoe, the luggage was +presently put into it, and between twelve and one they embarked with +their people, and were launched out into the river. The direction of +this branch was nearly east and west, and they proceeded some +distance down the stream for the purpose of getting into the main +branch of the Niger, where there was deeper water. + +Having encountered a dreadful storm, which threatened to swamp the +canoe, and which obliged them ultimately to take refuge on land, for +the purpose of sheltering themselves from the violence of the +tornado, they came to a place, where, a short distance from the +water's edge, the country was thickly studded with clusters of huts, +which altogether are called the village of Sooloo. They took up their +quarters in a large hut, which was nearest the landing place. They +were treated with much hospitality by the natives, who did all in +their power to render their short stay as agreeable as possible. The +old chief of the village accompanied them to the water's edge, when +they quitted their hut for the purpose of embarking, and enjoined +"the king of the canoe," to be particularly careful of his charge. +"Careful," answered the man, "to be sure I will, do I not know that +white men are more precious than a boat load of eggs, and require as +much care to be taken of them." The Landers entreated the same man a +short time afterwards, to be more active and diligent in the +management of his canoe, for he was rather inclined to be lazy, and +suffered every canoe to go before their own, but he replied gravely, +"Kings do not travel so fast as common men, I must convey you along as +slowly as possible." + +About eleven a.m. on the following day, they landed at the foot of a +small village, on the east bank of the river, where the horses and +men had arrived before them. They rested under a large tree an hour +or two, awaiting the arrival of the carriers from the city of +Yaoorie, who had been sent for on the preceding day, by one of the +Boossa messengers that had charge of their horses. These men arrived +at the village, between one and two o'clock in the afternoon, and +they immediately mounted and rode onwards. On attaining the summit of +a steep hill, they rode over a very narrow pathway so much overhung +by an impenetrable thorny shrub, that there was no room for more than +one man to walk. This led them to the wall of Yaoorie, and they +entered the city through an amazingly strong passage, in which was an +immense iron door, covered with plates of iron, rudely fastened to +the woodwork. They were almost exhausted with fatigue on their +arrival, insomuch that they excused themselves from visiting and +paying their respects to the sultan, and they were conducted to a +convenient habitation, which had been prepared for them. They soon +obtained an introduction to the prince, whom they had been so +desirous to visit. After passing through a low dark avenue, and being +kept long standing in a yard, they were conducted into another area, +resembling that of a farm establishment. Here they discovered the +sultan sitting alone in the centre of the square, on a plain piece of +carpeting, with a pillow on each side of him, and a neat brass pan in +front. His appearance was not only mean, but absolutely squalid and +dirty. He was a big-headed, corpulent, jolly-looking man, well +stricken in years, and though there was something harsh and +forbidding in his countenance, yet he was generally smiling during +the conference. He showed considerable dissatisfaction, because +neither Clapperton nor Lander had paid their court to him on their +previous journey, and still more on being informed that their means +of making a present had been reduced very low by the rapacity of the +chiefs already visited. In regard to Park's papers, he merely +replied, with an affected laugh, "How do you think that I could have +the books of a person that was lost at Boossa?" Afterwards being +pressed upon the subject, he despatched an Arab to inform them, that +he declared to God in the most solemn manner, that he had never had +in his possession, nor seen any books or papers of the white +travellers that perished at Boossa. Thus it appeared, that his +overture upon that subject to Clapperton, by which the Landers had +been so unguardedly lured, was a mere pretext to induce them to visit +him, and bestow a portion of the valuable articles with which they +were understood to be provided. His whole conduct was in perfect +unison with this first specimen of it. He did not, indeed, absolutely +rob them, but there was no artifice so petty that he did not employ +it, in order to obtain the few commodities which still remained in +their possession. Wishing to purchase some things, he induced the +Landers to send them, desiring that they should affix their own +price; he then said they asked too much, on which pretext he delayed, +and in a great measure evaded paying for them at all. The travellers, +in their ill-judged confidence in his friendship, requested him to +furnish a boat, in which they might descend the Niger. He replied, +they might have one for a hundred dollars, but being unable to +command that sum they were finally obliged to apply to their friend, +the king of Boossa, whom they had so unreasonably distrusted, and who +cheerfully undertook to supply their wants. + +The city of Yaoorie is of prodigious extent, and is supposed to be as +populous as any other in the whole continent, or at least that part +of it which is visited by the trading Arabs. Its wall is high and +very excellent, though made of clay alone, and may be between twenty +and thirty miles in circuit, and it has eight vast entrance gates or +doors, which were well fortified after the manner of the country. The +residence of the sultan, as well as the houses of many of the +principal inhabitants of the city, are two stories in height, having +thick and clumsy stairs of clay, leading to the upper apartments, +which are rather lofty, and, together with rooms on the ground floor, +have door-ways sufficiently large to enable a person to enter without +putting himself to the inconvenience of stooping. The principal part +of the houses is built in the circular or coozie fashion, but the +inhabitants have a few square ones, and the sultan's are of no +regular form whatever. It may be considered somewhat singular, that +the majority of the natives of western and central, and it may be +said, also of northern Africa, moisten the floors of their huts, and +the inside of their walls with a solution of cow dung and water, two +or three times a day, or as often as they can find the materials. +Though disagreeable to the smell of an European, this keeps the +interior of a dwelling as cool as it is dark. + +The Landers were anxious to expedite their departure, but the sultan +sent word to inform them that he would be occupied _three days_ in +writing to the king of England, and he would, therefore, thank them +to remain in Yaoorie till the expiration of that period. On the +following day, however, the sultan told them in plain and decisive +terms, that he could not send them either by way of Koolfu or Guarie, +because the Fellatas were in both of those places, and their fate +then would soon be decided. He wished, however, to be expressly +understood, that it was from no disinclination on his part to send +them to either of those places, but that his great regard for them +would not permit him to lead them into danger. Now the Landers knew +very well that the Fellatas had not the superiority either in Koolfu +or Guarie; the natives of the latter place, in particular, having +long since cut off the heads of all the Fellatas that could be found +in their country, and from that time they had enjoyed the most +perfect independence. The sultan of Yaoorie further said, that the +best thing he could do, was to send them back again to Boossa, and +from thence he was certain they might have liberty to go anywhere. +The moment they found this to be his intention, they returned to +their house, and having formed their resolution, they instantly +despatched one of their men with a message to the king of Boossa, to +the following effect: + +"That finding their presents insufficient to defray their expenses on +the road to Guarie and Bornou, they were under the necessity of +returning to the salt water to obtain more. That the chief of +Badagry, who is governor of that part of the coast, at which they had +landed, had treated them so very ill, while they were with him, that +he would detain them in his town for the remainder of their lives, if +they were to return by the way they had come, and by so doing, that +they should be unable to avoid falling into his power. Besides which, +the journey thither was so long that they should experience the same, +or even greater inconvenience than if they were to proceed to Bornou +through Catsheenah. Under these circumstances, they were extremely +desirous of travelling to the salt water by a shorter and safer +route, and would therefore prefer going by Fundah, as the easiest and +likeliest means of accomplishing that end. But as they had heard that +the road to that kingdom by land was infested with Fellatas, who live +by plunder and violence, they should feel infinitely obliged to him +(the king of Boossa,) if he could either sell or lend them a canoe to +proceed thither by water, and if so, that they would remunerate him +to the utmost of their ability." + +They awaited the return of their messenger With considerable anxiety, +and if an unfavourable answer were returned, they were resolved, +instead of proceeding to Boossa, to push on to Guarie, and thence to +Funda, as they originally intended, whatever might be the +consequence. + +After the usual lapse of time, the Boossa messenger returned, and to +their unspeakable joy, informed them that the king had consented to +procure for them a canoe, to proceed to Funda, provided the road by +land could not be depended on. He, however, candidly stated his +inability to protect their persons from insult and danger beyond his +own territories, and that they must solicit the good will of the +prince of Wowow, and the other rulers on the banks of the Niger, and +further, that their own men alone must manage the canoe, because no +one at Boossa would be willing, for various reasons, to accompany +them on the journey. They were, therefore, in a fair way of +accomplishing the object of the expedition. The sultan of Yaoorie, +however, put off their departure from day to day, and from week to +week, under a variety of nonsensical excuses, and they were persuaded +that it was his intention to detain them, until he had drained them +of every thing that was valuable. On Monday the 26th of July, +however, to their surprise and pleasure, a messenger from the king +of Boossa arrived, to ascertain the reason of such unwarrantable +conduct on the part of the sultan, and to request their immediate +release. One of the inducements urged by this monarch for their +longer stay with him, was rather whimsical. He had made them a +present of a quantity of worthless feathers, which he had caused to +be plucked from the body of a live ostrich, and because he +entertained an opinion that if others were added to them, they would +altogether form a very acceptable present to the king of England, he +informed them that it would be necessary they should wait till such +time as the ostrich should regain its plumage, in order for that part +of its body, which had not been previously plucked, to undergo a +similar operation, for the weather, he asserted, was much too cold +for the bird to lose all its feathers at one and the same time, and +further to encourage their growth, he would order that two thousand +kowries worth of butter, (about twelve pounds weight,) should be +diligently rubbed into the skin of the animal. This was, however, an +arch trick on the part of the sultan, for he was indebted to the +Landers in a considerable sum for some buttons, which he had +purchased of them, and this butter affair was intended as a kind of +set-off, as the sultan said he did not approve of paying for the +butter out of his own pocket. On the 1st August, the sultan sent a +messenger to inform them that they were at liberty to pay their +respects, and take their farewell of him previously to their +departure from the city, which they were assured should take place on +the following day, without any further procrastination or delay. They +were glad to obey the summons, for such they considered it, and on +their arrival at his residence, they were introduced into a large, +gloomy, uncomfortable apartment; a number of swallows' nests were +attached to the ceiling of the room, and their twittering owners, +which were flying about in all directions, fed their young without +interruption, and added not a little to the filthiness of the unswept +and unclean apartment. The conversation during the interview was as +uninteresting and spiritless, as their conversations with other +native rulers had always been. The sultan, however, could not pay his +debt, but by way of another set-off he offered them a female slave, +which was just as much use to them as the ostrich feathers, however, +the sultan was resolved to pay them in that species of coin, and +therefore they took the lady, and old Pascoe immediately adopted her +as his wife. + +On Monday the 2nd, all was hurry, bustle, and confusion, in getting +their things ready for their departure, and after the beasts had been +laden, and the people had their burdens on their head, they had to +wait for the sultan's long expected letter to the king of England. A +mallam was at length perceived hurrying towards them with it, and +after him came the venerable Arab chief, to honour them with his +company a little way on their journey. This crafty old man was not +their friend, for he had used them deceitfully, and misrepresented +them and their goods to his master, and they enjoyed an innocent kind +of revenge, in administering to him, after repeated applications, a +powerful dose of medicine, which though harmless in its effects, had +yet been very troublesome to him. Indeed it was not till they had +"jalaped" the sultan, his sister, and all the royal family, that they +were permitted to take their farewell of Yaoorie. + +The following is the letter of the sultan of Yaoorie, as it was +translated into English by A. O. Salame: + +"Praise be to God, and blessings and salutations be unto that +(prophet), since whom there has been no other prophet. + +"To our friend in God, and his apostle (Mahommed), the prince of the +English Christians; salutation and mercy, and blessings of God, be +unto you, from your friend, the sultan of Yaouri, whose name is +Mahommed Ebsheer. Perfect salutation be unto you, (and) may God cause +your mornings and evenings to be most happy, with multiplied +salutations (from us). + +"After our salutation unto you (some) ostrich feathers will reach +you, (as a present,) from the bounty and blessings of God (we have in +our country), and we, together with you, thank God (for what he has +bestowed). And salutation be unto your hired people, (your suite) and +peace be unto our people, who praise God. + +(Signed,) From the +PRINCE OF YAOURI." + +Of this letter, Mr. Salame says, that it is the worst of the African +papers which he had seen, both as to its ungrammatical and +unintelligible character. Indeed, his Yaourick majesty seemed to be +sadly in need of words to make himself intelligible. It must be +remarked, that the words between parentheses are not in the original, +but supplied by the translator for the purpose of reducing the letter +to some kind of meaning. + + + +CHAPTER XXXVI. + +Owing to the reputed badness of the path, that by which the Landers +had entered Yaoorie, was rejected for a more northerly one, leading +in almost a direct line to the river Cubbie. About mid-day they +arrived at the walls of a pretty considerable town, called Guàda, and +halted near a small creek of a river flowing from Cubbie, and +entering the Niger a little lower down. Here, as soon as they had +taken a slight refreshment, they sent their beasts across the Niger +to proceed by land to Boossa, and embarked in two canoes, which were +each paddled by four men. On entering the Niger, they found it +running from two to three miles an hour, and they proceeded down the +river till the sun had set; and the moon was shining beautifully on +the water, as they drew near to a small Cumbrie village on the +borders of the river, where they landed and pitched their tent. The +inhabitants of many of the numerous walled towns and open villages on +the banks of the Niger, and also of the islands, were found to be for +the most part Cumbrie people, a poor, despised, and abused, but +industrious and hard-working race. Inheriting from their ancestors a +peaceful, timid, passionless, incurious disposition, they fall an +easy prey to all who choose to molest them; they bow their necks to +the yoke of slavery without a murmur, and think it a matter of +course; and perhaps no people in the world are to be found who are +less susceptible of intense feeling, and the finer emotions of the +human mind, on being stolen away from their favourite amusements and +pursuits, and from the bosom of their wives and families, than these +Cumbrie people, who are held in general disesteem. Thousands of them +reside in the kingdom of Yaoorie, and its province of Engarski, and +most of the slaves in the capital have been taken from them. + +As they proceeded down the Niger by a different channel from that by +which they had ascended it to Yaoorie, they had fresh opportunities +of remarking the more striking features on its banks. The river, as +might naturally be expected, was much swollen, and its current more +impetuous, than when they passed upon their voyage to Yaoorie. In the +earlier part of the evening they landed at a small Cumbrie village, +and their canoes were pulled upon a sandy beach for the night in +security. + +At seven o'clock on the following morning, they were once more upon +the Niger, and about noon they observed a herd of Fellata cows +grazing on the banks of the river, and a very short distance from +them, they saw an immense crocodile floating on the surface like a +long canoe, for which it was at first mistaken, and watching an +opportunity to seize one of the cows, and destroy it by dragging it +into the river. As soon as the terrific reptile was perceived by the +canoemen, they paddled as softly as possible towards him, intending +to wait at a short distance till the crocodile should have +accomplished his object, when they agreed to pull rapidly towards the +shore, and reap the fruit of the reptile's amazing strength, by +scaring him off from his prey, or destroying him with harpoons, for +the skin of the crocodile is not in this country considered +impenetrable. Their intentions were, however, frustrated by the +sudden disappearance of the crocodile, which dived the moment he +perceived the canoe so near him, making a loud plashing noise, and +agitating the water in a remarkable manner in his descent. They +waited some time, in hopes he would rise again, but they were not +again gratified with the sight of the monster. + +A short time afterwards, they landed at Warree, which is the most +celebrated market town in the dependency of Engarski, and consists, +of several clusters of huts, encircled by a dwarf clay wall. The +market was attended by many thousands of people from different parts +of the country. Vast numbers of canoes, filled with people and goods, +were passing from one side of the Niger to the other, and the +countenances of both buyers and sellers betrayed a very anxious and +business-like expression. As soon as the curiosity of the Landers was +fully satisfied, they crossed over to the Boossa side of the river, +and landed at a small walled town called Garnicassa, which was +inhabited by the Cumbrie people, and situated about five miles north +of Boossa. At no great distance from this place, and within sight of +it, all the branches of the Niger meet, and form a beautiful and +magnificent sheet of water, at least seven or eight miles in breadth, +and it excited the surprise of the Landers, to know what became of so +extraordinary a body of water, for at Boossa, the river is no more +than a stone's throw across, and its depth is in proportion to its +narrowness, but about an hour's walk from thence, it again becomes a +noble river, and maintains its width, it was reported, even to Funda. +This singular fact favours the opinion, that a large portion of the +waters of the Niger is conveyed by subterraneous passages from the +town of Garnicassa to a few miles below Boossa. + +The travellers pursued their journey along the banks of the Niger, +although the path was filled with water, and broken up by the force +of the rains. After an hour's ride they drew near to the walls of +Boossa, and soon arrived at the drummer's house, which had been their +former residence. Here they found the midiki on her knees to receive +and welcome them back again to Boossa in the name of the king, but +they were not permitted to enter and take possession of their old +apartments, for the queen conducted them to other huts, which formed +part of the cluster inhabited by the Fellatas. In the evening they +were visited by the king, who said, he had been apprehensive that +they required a little repose and quietness after their journey, and +therefore he did not like to intrude on them before. They were not +long domiciliated in their new dwelling, before they were informed +that the drummer's wife had excited the envy of the queen, by wearing +round her neck a smart gilt button, which had been given to her, and +that was the only reason why they were not allowed to occupy their +former lodgings in her house. Yet to be even with her _fair_ rival, +the queen had extracted from her little sheep-skin box, wherein they +had been confined for a quarter of a century, a small number of round +and flat golden ornaments, with which she adorned her sable bosom, +and thereby totally eclipsed the transitory splendour of the button +belonging to the drummer's wife. + +In a conversation with the king, he intimated to them that it would +be necessary for them to visit Wowow, previously to their going to +Funda, because the prince of that state had already made war on Kiama +on their account, and captured a few of the people. The king, +himself, repeated to them the promise which he had made to their +messenger, that he would furnish them with a canoe sufficiently large +to contain the whole of their people and themselves; but still some +doubts arose in their minds, and should a canoe be denied them, after +all that the monarch had said, it was their determination to take a +canoe of their own accord, and steal away from Boossa by night. The +king expressed his fears that the personal safety of the travellers +would be endangered by the Fellatas, who resided on each side of the +river; but Pascoe answered his majesty by telling him, that the +English were the gods of the waters, and no evil could befal them in +boats, even though all Africa, or the whole world should fight +against them. "I will, however," said the king, in reply, "go down +and ask the _Becken ronah_ (dark or black water, which the Niger is +every where emphatically styled) whether it will be prudent and safe +for the white men to embark on it or not, and I will be sure to +acquaint you and them of my success, be it good or bad." + +The following day the king intended to question the Niger, and the +great hope of the Landers was, that the river would return a +favourable answer. + +The Landers were not ignorant that a present to an African king will +generally effect wonders, it will even make the Niger return a +favourable answer to an inquiry which, but for the present, would +have been adverse. They therefore acted politically, and sent the +king as a present, one of those beautiful silver medals which were +cast during the American war, to which, was attached a large and +valuable chain of the same metal; assuring the sable king at the same +time, that he might now consider himself as the king of England's +most particular friend, and that he could not make a more suitable +return, than by assisting them them in their plan of journeying to +the salt water by way of the Niger. + +The present had the desired effect, for on the following day the king +came to them with great joy, and informed them that he had been down +to the Niger with his mallam, and that the result of his visit was +highly favourable to their wishes as well as to his own, the river +having promised to conduct them in safety its termination. + +The Landers during their stay at Boossa, had to depend in great +measure upon their own resources for their maintenance, their chief +food consisting of guinea fowls and partridges, for their stock of +articles, wherewith they could barter for provisions, was nearly +exhausted. The market was already overstocked with buttons, needles +were unsaleable; all their bits of coloured cloth were disposed of, +and indeed almost every thing that _would_ sell, reserving to +themselves a few articles of some value as presents to the different +chiefs along the banks of the Niger. Amongst other trifles disposed +of, were several tin cases, which contained worthless and unpalatable +portable soups, &c. These were labelled with slips of tin, which +though rather dull and dirty, nevertheless attracted the admiration +of many, and they were highly diverted to see one man in particular +walking at large, and strutting about with "concentrated gravy," +stuck on his head in no less than four places. He appeared quite +proud of these ornaments, and was simpering with pleasure wherever he +went. + +The travellers left Boossa on the 11th August, and directed their +course for Wowow, and having travelled a few miles, they crossed in a +canoe a branch of the Niger, forming a pretty little river, and +running nearly west, and is said to encompass the whole of Wowow. +After a journey of about twelve miles, they entered the city of Wowow +through the western entrance, and by desire, they galloped swiftly +towards the king's residence, and fired off a couple of pistols as a +signal of their arrival. The customs of this monarch were the most +singular that had been yet observed in Africa. He came out to welcome +the travellers, but it was contrary to etiquette for him to speak, or +to enter into any kind of conversation, nor is any foreigner +permitted to speak, whatever might be his rank, unless in presence of +the representative of the chief from whom he last came. In the wall +on each side of the entrance of the town was a large niche, in one of +which the king stood fixed and motionless, with his hands clasped +under his tobe, and supported on his bosom; and round a pole, which +had been placed erect in the other niche, a naked youth had entwined +his legs, remaining in breathless anxiety to be a spectator of the +approaching interview. + +While the king remained in the above position, without moving a +single muscle, and which lasted till the Boossa messenger made his +appearance, a singing woman drew near the person of her sovereign, +and began to exercise her vocation in a tone of voice that displayed +any thing but sweetness or melody, and so loud and shrill as to +frighten away the birds from the trees near the spot. + +The Boossa messenger, who had been so anxiously expected, at length +arrived, and the spell, which had bound every one to the spot was +dissolved in a moment; they were then conducted to the king, and +formally introduced to him, but the grave eccentric old man shook +hands with them, without taking them from the tobe in which they had +been enveloped, or even condescending to look in their faces, for he +never made it a practice to raise his head above a certain height, +fearing that he should discover the person to whom he might be +conversing gazing full in his countenance, to which he had a very +strange, but unconquerable antipathy; the interview lasted but a +moment, and they were hastily conducted to the house which was +occupied by the late Captain Clapperton. + +On the following morning, Richard Lander carried the presents to the +king. The monarch appeared well pleased and cheerful, and expressed +himself perfectly satisfied, though in a few minutes afterwards he +despatched a messenger to inquire if they had not brought any coral +beads with them from England. In compliance with the request which +Richard Lander made to him, the king informed him, that he would sell +them a canoe with the greatest pleasure. He was convinced, he said, +that they would return in safety to their country by way of the +Niger, which did not contain a single rock from Inguazhilligee to +Funda. + +It was the earnest, and oft repeated desire of the chief of Wowow, +while they resided in the town, that they should return from Boossa, +and spend the approaching holidays with him, to which they thought +proper to accede, indeed the old man had behaved so well to them, +that they did not like to make an ungrateful return. But his sister, +the midiki, was jealous of her brother, because they had given him so +good a character, and she said, she was apprehensive he might obtain +from them more than she was willing he should have, and, therefore, +she not only set her husband's mind against the measure, but she +slandered and defamed his character most shamefully. This despicable +vice of slander is universal in Africa, the people all speak ill of +each other, from the monarch to the slave. They now found that they +should be compelled to remain in Boossa, till the period arrived for +their final departure from the country. + +The expected messenger arrived from Wowow, with full power to treat +with the midiki for the purchase of the canoe, and although the +Landers were the parties most concerned in the business, they were +not allowed to say anything about it. The bargain was, however, soon +concluded; they were to give both their horses for the canoe, and if +the king of Wowow should fancy the animals to be more than equivalent +to the value of the boat, he promised to send them the balance in +money (kowries). This was infinitely better than they could have +managed the business themselves, indeed they could not have contrived +matters half so well, for they had previously made a present of the +youngest of the horses to the king of Boossa, but most likely, owing +to Pascoe's misrepresentation, or rather his misinterpretation, the +monarch was not made sensible of the circumstance. The canoe was to +be sent to them in a day or two, when they determined to prepare her +for the water without delay. + +On Wednesday, August 25th, they despatched one of their men, named +Ibrahim, to Coulfo, with their ass and a number of needles to sell. +The king also sent a messenger with him, who was commissioned to +visit all the towns and villages on the Nouffie side of the river, as +far as the Fellata town of Rabba, and to request their chiefs and +governors, in the name of the king of Boossa, to suffer them to pass +down the river without injury or molestation. + +The following is a singular trait in the African character. Not +having any good salt, they sent Pascoe's wife to the king to request +the favour of a little unadulterated salt, because there were such a +great quantity of ashes, and other spurious ingredients, mixed up +with that which is publicly sold in the markets, that they never +could eat it with pleasure. Both the king and queen embraced the +opportunity of admiring the shape and beauty of the salt box, and +spoke in rapturous terms of the lustre of its appearance, and the +ingenuity of its contrivance. "Allah! how wonderful," said they, +"even the most trifling articles belonging to the white men, are fit +for the use of the mightiest kings. Alas! Allah has given them all +the glory and riches of the world, and its knowledge, and left none +whatever for black men." + +The king was affected! He thrust the vessel into the pocket of his +tobe, smoothed it down with his hand, looked melancholy, and said, +"How nicely it fits! what a beautiful thing! how convenient it would +be in travelling." He then took it out again, turned it round and +round, opened and shut it repeatedly, and then bestowing on it a last +commendation, as outrageously as any of the former, it was returned +filled with genuine salt. Who could not understand the meaning of all +this? Now this handsome salt cellar was of latten, and was formerly a +common round tinder box, and because they had nothing better for the +purpose, they deprived it of the candlestick on its cover a short +time before, and converted it to its present use. The tin, moreover, +had been burnt off from many parts of it, and Pascoe's wife not being +an admirer of cleanliness, it had lost much of its original +brightness. The king's encomiums were nothing more than an indirect +and ingenious solicitation of the article for his own use; which was +further apparent by desiring the woman to relate to the Landers, no +part of the conversation that had passed between them: or in other +words, that she should tell them every syllable. They could not help +admiring the delicacy of the king, and sent back the tinder box to +him immediately. The bearer was rewarded handsomely for his trouble, +and they received as many thanks, as when he accepted the silver +medal and chain which they had presented to him. + +It is by such means as this, that the chiefs and rulers of this +country, ashamed of making a direct application for any thing in the +possession of the travellers, to which they may have taken a fancy, +endeavour to obtain it. If, however, the hint does not succeed in +making a visible impression, less delicate measures are presently +resorted to, and when every other expedient fails, they cast aside +the reserve and bashfulness which had influenced them at first, and +express their meaning in language which cannot be misunderstood. In +this respect, the chiefs and governors are all alike, from Badagry to +the metropolis of Yaoorie. + +On the 31st, a messenger with a canoe arrived from the king of Wowow, +but it was so very small, that it was wholly inadequate for their +purpose. This was a most provoking circumstance, because a larger +canoe was to be procured, which could not be done without a +considerable loss of time. In fact, between the chief of Wowow and +his sister, the midiki, the travellers were completely taken in. The +horses given in exchange to the prince of Wowow for this sorry canoe, +were large, handsome, and superior animals, worth in England at least +sixty pounds, and the article they got in exchange for them was not +worth so many pence. They heard that boats of a considerable size +were kept at a small town on the banks of the Niger called Lever, and +thither they resolved to proceed as soon as the Boossa messenger +should have returned from Rabba, and get a canoe prepared with as +much expedition as possible. + +The Landers were now weary of their protracted stay at Boossa, and +urged the king to hasten their departure, and after many scruples and +much hesitation, he at length appointed the second day of the moon, +that being, according to his opinion, the happiest and luckiest of +all days. He could not, however, forbear expressing his deep regret +at their determination to leave Boossa before the return of his +messenger from Nouffie, as it might be detrimental to their own +personal interests, and his own reputation also might suffer, if any +thing should befal them on the river, but he had already given his +word for their departure, and from that promise he would not swerve. +On the same afternoon they wished to pay their respects to the king, +previously to their departure, which they understood was to take +place on the following morning; but to their surprise, he asserted +that the moon would not be discernible that evening, and, therefore, +that the following Monday would be the day of their departure. The +moon, however, _did_ shine fairly in sight of all the people; +nevertheless, they made no further remark to the prince on the +subject, thinking it might confuse and irritate him. + +Every thing was now got ready for starting. As it was not their +intention to call at many inhabited places on the banks of the Niger, +they provided themselves with a great quantity of provisions, which +consisted chiefly of three large bags of corn, and one of beans. +They had likewise a couple of fowls and two sheep, so that they were +of opinion, they should have food enough for all hands for three +weeks or a month at least. To add to their stock, the king and +midiki between them, gave them a considerable quantity of rice, +honey, corn, and onions, and two large pots of vegetable butter, +weighing not less than a hundred pounds. + +To their now unspeakable joy, the long expected and wished for +messenger arrived from Rabba, accompanied by two messengers from the +king of Nouffie, who were to be their guides as far as Rabba, after +passing which city, all the Nouffie territory to the southward, was +under the government of Ederesa and his partisans. "The magia," said +the Boossa ambassador, "was delighted with the intelligence, that +white men were to honour his dominions with their presence, and as a +proof of his friendly disposition towards you, and his interest in +your welfare, he has not only sent his son as your companion and +guide, but he has likewise despatched a messenger to every town on +the banks of the Niger, either considerable or unimportant, even as +far as Funda, which is beyond the limits of the empire, and he is +commissioned to acquaint their inhabitants of the fact of your +intention of proceeding down the river, and to desire them to assist +you with their encouragement and support, as far as it lies in their +power to do." + +After some little consideration, the Landers knew not whether they +ought to feel pleasure or regret, thankfulness or indifference, at +the arrival of these men, and the occasion which brought them +thither; at the time, they could only foresee that they would be a +heavy burden on their funds, and as it happened, that they had the +utmost difficulty in the world to support themselves, it would cause +them additional trouble, expense, and uneasiness, to provide them +with the bare necessaries of life. The king, however, had but one +feeling on the subject, and that was unbounded delight; he capered +round his hut with transport, when he saw their guides, and heard +the message which they had to deliver, and after a burst of joy, he +began to cry like a child, his heart was so full. "Now," said he, +when he had become more composed, "whatever may happen to the white +men, my neighbours cannot but acknowledge that I have taken every +care of them, treated them as became a king, and done my best to +promote their happiness and interests. They will not be able," +continued the monarch with exultation, "they dare not have the +effrontery to cast at me a reproach, like that which they bestowed on +my ancestor; I can now safely entrust the white men to the care, +protection, and hospitality of a neighbouring monarch, who, I am +convinced, if not for my sake, at least for his own, will receive and +entertain them with every mark of distinction and kindness, and feel +that towards them I have done my duty, and let my neighbours see to +it, that they do theirs." + +On Monday, the 20th September, all were on the _qui vine_ at a very +early hour, ransacking their lumber, packing it up, and turning it +out into the yard, whence it was conveyed to the water side. About +breakfast time, the king and queen arrived at their hut, to pay them +a farewell visit, and bestow upon them their last blessing. They +brought with them two pots of honey, and a large quantity of goora +nuts, strongly recommending them to present the latter to the Rabba +chieftain, for that nothing which they might have in their +possession, could so effectually conciliate his favour, procure them +his friendship, and command his confidence. + +It was nine o'clock in the morning when they arrived at the river +side, where they found two canoes lying to receive their goods, which +were quickly loaded. They had, however, been but a short time on the +water, when they discovered that the smaller canoe, in which were six +individuals and a number of sheep belonging to the Nouffie +messengers, was over-laden, and in danger of sinking, and that both +were very leaky, insomuch that it required three men to be constantly +employed in baling out the water to keep them afloat. To lighten the +smaller canoe, they took a man from her into their own, and +afterwards they proceeded more safely, and with less apprehension, +yet they were obliged to put into a small island, called Malalie, to +get it repaired, for they were afraid to proceed any further with the +small canoe, on account of the rocks, and the velocity of the +current. + +According to their estimation, the current was here running at the +rate of five or six miles in an hour, and the bed of the river was +full of rocks, some of which were only a few inches below the surface +of the water, which occasioned it to make a loud rushing noise, and +forewarn the canoe man of his danger. They now passed the boundaries +of Boossa, on the eastern side of the river, and entered the +dominions of the king of Nouffie. Towards evening they came to +Inguazhilligee, having passed just before, a very large and pleasant, +but straggling town, called Congie. Inguazhilligee is the first town +on the Wowow ground, all above, on the western bank of the Niger, +belonging to Boossa. Journeying along for a quarter of an hour +without stopping at any place, they put into a market town, on a +large and beautiful island, called Patashie, just in time to save +themselves from a heavy shower. Here they were obliged to remain +until the return of the messenger, whom they landed in the middle of +the day, and sent to Wowow, for the purpose of informing the king of +their departure from Boossa, and their intention to reside at +Patashie till it might please him to send the large canoe, which they +had purchased of him. They were now out of the protection of the +friendly monarch of Boossa, who would have nothing further to do with +them. + +Patashie is a large, rich island, unspeakably beautiful, and is +embellished with various groves of palm and other noble trees. It is +tributary to Wowow, though it is inhabited solely by Nouffie people, +who are considered honest, active, laborious, and wealthy. The hut in +which they resided, exhibited a scene of revelry and mirth more +becoming a native inn than a private dwelling. + +The chief of the island, accompanied by the four messengers from +Boossa and Nouffie, and several of his own people, all dressed "in +their holiday best," paid them a visit in the earlier part of the +morning, and out of compliment, it was supposed, remained with them +till the evening, with the exception of a short absence in the middle +of the day, during all which time they were employed in swallowing +palm wine, which is procured in the island in great plenty, and in +telling nonsensical stories. The Landers were heartily glad when they +said it was time to depart, and having shaken hands with the ardour +of drunkards, they took their leave, staggered out of the hut, and +all went laughing away. + +They were about to close their hut for the night, when a messenger +arrived from the king of Wowow, with news not at all to their liking. +He informed them that they were anxiously expected in that city from +Boossa at the time of the holidays, and because they did not come +agreeably to their promise, the prince could not conceal his chagrin, +and was exceedingly angry, not only with the king of Boossa, who was +the cause of their absence, but also with themselves. The messenger +informed them that his sovereign had most certainly procured for them +a canoe, which was laid up at Lever, but that if they wished, or +rather if they were determined to have their horses back again, the +king would send them in compliance to their wishes, "for who," said +he, with much emphasis, "would presume to assert that the monarch of +Wowow would keep the property of others? It would not be paying him +that respect," he continued, which his rank and situation demanded, +were the white men to leave his dominions and the country altogether, +without first coming to pay him their respects, and he would +therefore entreat them to pay a visit to Wowow for that purpose, or +if both of them could not leave Patashie, he requested that Richard +Lander would come and bid him adieu, because he had not done so when +his illness compelled him to leave his city. + +The monarchs of Boossa and Wowow seemed to entertain very different +opinions regarding the journey of the Landers. The former insisting +on the necessity of their proceeding down the Niger on the eastern or +Nouffie side, and the latter making use of strong language to +persuade them that the Yarriba side of the river would be the most +convenient, the most agreeable, and the safest; and if they would +make up their minds not to attend to the king of Boossa's advice, he +would send a messenger with them, who should protect them even to the +sea. This difference of opinion, they were apprehensive would involve +them in a thousand perplexities, yet they could only be guided by +circumstances. + +At Boossa, they experienced the greatest difficulty and trouble in +procuring the bare necessaries of life, but in the flourishing +Patashie, provisions were sent to them from the chiefs of the two +islands in such abundance, that half of them were thrown to the dogs. +The natives of all ages displayed the greatest anxiety to see the +white men, and large crowds assembled every day, and waited from +morning to night patiently till they had gained the object of their +visit. However, they were all as timid as hares, and if the Landers +happened to look fixedly in their faces for a moment, most of them, +more especially the females and the junior classes of both sexes, +started back with terror, as if they had seen a serpent in the grass; +and when the Landers attempted to walk near any of them, they ran +screaming away, as though they had been pursued by a lion, or were in +danger of falling into the jaws of a crocodile, so horrified were +these poor people at the bare sight of a white man, and so frightful +did their imaginations picture him to be. + +On Friday, September 24th, Richard Lander landed for the purpose of +proceeding to Wowow, and took possession of a house on the banks of +the river, which had been prepared for him. The king of Wowow's +messenger accompanied him, and having got everything ready as soon as +he could, he commenced his journey to the city. + +On his arrival at Wowow, he was too much fatigued to pay his respects +to the sovereign, but on the following day, he had prepared himself +for the visit to the king's house, but to his great surprise the +eccentric old man excused himself from being seen on that day, on the +plea that he had taken a ride in the morning to see his gardens, and +the exercise had so much tired him, that he felt no inclination +whatever to receive his visitors till the following day. It was, +therefore, not until the 26th, that he granted Lander an audience, +and he then said with the greatest indifference, "I have not yet been +able to procure you the canoe which I promised to get, but I have no +doubt that the ruler of Patashie will have it in his power to supply +you with one to your satisfaction, for which purpose I will send an +express to that island without delay, whom I will furnish with the +necessary instructions to effect an immediate purchase." + +Finding that nothing definitive could be arranged relative to the +canoe, Lander prepared to take his departure, but previously to his +setting out, he requested the monarch to show him his collection of +charms, which were written on sheets of paper, glued or pasted +together. Amongst them he discovered a small edition of Watts' Hymns +on one of the blank leaves of which was written, _Alexander Anderson, +Royal Military Hospital, Gosport_, 1804. From the Wowow chieftain, as +well as from his good old brother, and their quondam Abba, Richard +and his attendants received the most liberal hospitality, and on his +taking his leave of them, they wished him farewell in the most +cordial and affectionate manner. + +On the return of Richard Lander to Patashie, preparations were +instantly made for their departure, but after all their luggage had +been packed up in readiness, information was brought them from the +chief, that they could not start until to-morrow, because the Niger +would receive a great influx of water during the night, which would +be considerably in their favour. To raise any objection to this +arrangement was considered as wholly useless, and therefore they +quietly awaited the coming of the following day. + +Between eight and nine in the morning, horses were brought from the +chief and his nephew to take the Landers to the water side, where +their luggage had been previously conveyed. Here they had to wait a +considerable time till the canoes were brought from another part of +the island, there being but one got ready at the time of their +arrival. On the arrival of the canoes, and all their things had been +removed into them from the beach, they were desired to ride to a +landing place further down the island, because of the rocks, which +were reported to intercept the stream at a little distance from the +place whereon they stood, and to be very dangerous for canoes that +were heavily laden. The venerable governor of Patashie, to whom they +were under so many obligations, preceded them on the footpath, +walking with a staff, and they reached the appointed place of +embarkation exactly at the same moment as the canoes. After thanking +all the friends that had accompanied them, they jumped on board, and +pushed off from the shore, cheered by the natives that were present. + +The current bore them rapidly along, and having passed down in front +of one or two towns on the banks of the river, they came in sight of +Lever, which was the place of their destination, it being about +twenty miles from Patashie. + +Their surprise was, however, great indeed, when instead of the proper +person whom they expected would have received them, they were +welcomed on shore by a man called Ducoo, who represented himself as +the agent and confidential friend of the prince of Rabba, but their +surprise was not a little increased on learning that a party of forty +or fifty armed Fellata soldiers were also in the town. Ducoo treated +them with the courtly politeness of a Frenchman, and was equally +lavish in his compliments and offers of service; he walked with them +to the chief of the town, to whom he took the liberty of introducing +them, almost before he knew himself who or what they were; went +himself and procured excellent lodgings for them, returned and sat +down in their company to tell them some droll stories, and impart to +them in confidence some very disagreeable news; then hastily arose, +went out, and came back again with a sheep and other provisions, +which he had obtained by compulsion from the chief, and finally +remained with them till long after the moon had risen, when he left +them to their repose. + +The Landers now began to discover that they had been egregiously +imposed upon, for in the first place they found, after all, that +Lever did not belong to the king of Wowow, though it stands on his +dominions, nor had that monarch a single subject here, or a single +canoe, so that they were as far as ever they were from getting one, +and with the loss of their horses to boot. They now found to their +cost that they had been cajoled and out-manoeuvred by those fellows +of Boossa and its adjoining state, whom they falsely conceived to be +their dearest and best black friends. They had played with them as if +they were great dolls; they had been driven about like shuttlecocks; +they had been to them first a gazing stock, and afterwards were their +laughing stock, and, perhaps, not unlikely their mockery; they had +been their admiration, their buffoons, their wonder and their scorn, +a by-word and a jest. Else why this double dealing, this deceit, +this chicanery, these hollow professions? "Why," as Richard Lander +says, "did they entrap us in this manner? Why have they led us about +as though we had been blind, only to place us in the very lap of what +they imagine to be danger? For can it be possible that the monarchs +of Wowow and Boossa were ignorant of the state of things here, which +is in their own immediate neighbourhood, and which have continued the +same essentially for these three years? Surely," concludes Lander, +"they have knowingly deceived us." + +The Landers were now placed in a most unpleasant predicament; they +could not possibly obtain a canoe according to the promise of the +king of Wowow, and to take those which had been lent them by the +chief of Patashie, appeared such a breach of confidence, that they +could not prevail upon themselves to commit it, but the necessity of +the case pleaded strongly in their favour. They had not the means of +purchasing the canoes of the chief of Patashie, as the king of Wowow +had adroitly managed to exhaust them of nearly all their resources; +but when they began to talk of prosecuting their journey in the +canoes belonging to the chief of Patashie, the canoe men stoutly +resisted their right: fortunately, however, for them, their busy, +restless friend Ducoo interfered on their behalf, and soon silenced +their remarks, by threatening to cut off the head of him who should +presume from that time to set foot in either of the canoes; and in +order to give his menace the greater weight, he stationed two of his +men to guard the forbidden boats till the sun went down, with drawn +swords, and during the greater part of the night, another of his men +paraded up and down the banks of the river near the spot as a watch, +and this man kept up a noise by continually playing on a drum. + +The four messengers, who had accompanied them from Wowow and Boossa, +had hitherto been a great encumbrance upon the Landers, as their +maintenance was by no means inconsiderable, at the same time, they +were themselves in some measure dependent upon the native chiefs for +their support. They were, therefore, heartily rejoiced to get rid of +them, and having been paid their stipulated wages, they left the town +in company to proceed to Wowow. + +The question of the canoes was, however, by no means settled, for the +Landers were on a sudden surprised by the arrival of a small party of +men, who arrived in a canoe, from the chief of the island of Teàh, +with a message to them, purporting that the canoes which they had, to +the infinite surprise of the chief, detained at Lever, did not belong +as was supposed, to his friend, the chief of Patashie, but were his +own property, and as he did not acknowledge the authority of Wowow, +but had ever been subject to the king of Nouffie, he considered that +they could have no right whatever to the canoes in question, and, +therefore, he entreated them to return the canoes by the hands of his +messengers. The chief of Teàh asserted, that he had lent them, +because he was willing to oblige the white men and his own neighbour, +but he did not conceive it possible that they could make so +ungrateful and unkind a return for his hospitality, and the respect +and attention which it had been his pride and pleasure to show them. +For their own parts, they could not forbear acknowledging the truth +and justice of the observations of the Teàh chieftain, and blaming +themselves for the step they had taken. They said further, that +whatever might be the consequence, they had not the slightest +objection to restore the canoes to their rightful owner; and provided +the men from Teàh could obtain the consent of Ducoo, the priest, to +take them away, they were at liberty to do so whenever they might +think proper. But this, they were by no means disposed to do, for +they both feared and hated Ducoo, and, therefore, they bribed the +Nouffie messenger with a large sum of money to assist them in their +project, and purposed taking away both canoes in the night time by +stealth. These intentions were, however, frustrated by the watchful +vigilence of Ducoo, who had mistrusted them long before they were +made known to the Landers, and when he had actually detected their +plans, he ordered the canoes to be pulled up on shore, two hundred +yards at least from the water's edge, and observed with vehemence, +"That after what he had done, should they again be launched into the +water and taken away, he would instantly tie a rope round the necks +of the chief of the town, and the Nouffie messenger that had accepted +the bribe, and in that humiliating state, they should be driven like +beasts to their sovereign, the magia." + +On Friday the 3rd October, they were desired to get their things +packed up, for that they would be allowed to proceed on their journey +on the following morning. In pursuance of that arrangement, they had +got all their luggage in readiness, and only waited the coming of the +chief to take their departure, when to their great regret, one of his +messengers entered their hut to apprise them, that they would be +unable to depart until to-morrow, his master having been dissuaded +from his original purpose by the officious, bustling priest, their +friend and enemy. They submitted to their disappointment as patiently +and silently as they could, and in the evening they obtained a solemn +promise, that whatever might be the consequence, no one should divert +him from the resolution he had formed of detaining them longer than +that day, and that early on the following morning they should +certainly depart. + +Their surprise and displeasure may, however, be guessed, when after +their goods had been removed from the hut into the yard, they were +informed, that they would be compelled to remain in the town yet +another day, notwithstanding all that the chief had told them on the +day preceding. Their patience was now completely exhausted, and they +were in great anger, for it was disheartening to be always deceived +and trifled with by such scoundrels. Repairing, therefore, to a hut, +in which they knew the chief passed the greater part of his time, +they discovered him sitting on the ground in company with the artful +Ducoo and the Nouffie messenger, and engaged in a very high dispute +with both of them. Their unexpected and abrupt intrusion, in a moment +cut short their wrangling, and they spoke with much emphasis of the +shameful manner in which they had been treated, and expressed their +determination of leaving Lever in a few hours, in defiance of them +and all their power. With the most insolent effrontery in the world, +Ducoo smiled at them, and replied, that they were entirely in his +power--that they should do as _he_ liked, and quit the town whenever +he thought proper. + +Such language as this they thought rather too bold, and they +pretended to be in a violent passion, and quickly undeceived him on +that point, threatening that if either he or any of his men, should +presume to interfere with them in their intention; or proceedings +or attempt to hinder them from getting away from the town, they would +feel no more hesitation nor reluctance in shooting him, than if he +had been a partridge or a guinea hen. The priest, who had never +before seen any thing in them but mildness, was intimidated at the +determined and resolute behaviour they had found it necessary to +adopt; in a moment he was crest-fallen, and from being one of the +most boisterous and consequential fellows in the world, became quite +passive: yet his presence of mind did not forsake him, he stammered +out a kind of apology, attempted to soothe them by soft language and +submission, in which he found little difficulty, and did all in his +power to effect a reconciliation. Having settled this business, the +Landers went out, and assembling their men, attempted to draw their +canoe to the river side, but the ground was even, and the boat so +long and heavy, that notwithstanding all their exertions, they could +move her only a few inches towards the river. The people were ashamed +of themselves to see them labouring so hard, and to so little +purpose, and Ducoo likewise, observing them, was convinced that they +were in earnest, therefore, whispering a few words in the ear of the +chief, they both came down to the spot, where they were toiling at +the canoe, followed by a number of men; these, with the priest at +their head, took the work out of their hands, and in less than two +minutes the boat was floating on the water. Their luggage was then +conveyed into the two canoes, and shortly afterwards they were +supplied with three men to paddle them, with the assistance of their +own. Here they took their farewell of the chief and the priest, the +latter begging them very anxiously to speak well of him to his +sovereign at Rabba. + +It was not till after they were all in the canoes, and ready to push +off, that those on shore discovered them to be overladen, and +recommended them to hire one of immense size, which was lying +alongside. Without stopping to make them any reply, or listen to any +further nonsense, they desired their own men to push the boats out +into the middle of the current, which was done very promptly, and the +town of Lever, with its chief and inhabitants, was speedily out of +sight and soon forgotten. + +About one o'clock they landed at a considerable large and spacious +town, called Bajiebo, inhabited by Nouffie people, although, it is +situated on the Yarriba, or western side of the river. For dirt, +bustle, and nastiness of all kinds, this place exceeded anything they +had ever seen before. For two hours after their arrival they were +obliged to wait in a close diminutive hut, till a more convenient and +becoming habitation could be procured for their reception, and the +pleasure of the chief with regard to them should be known. They were +much incommoded by visitors, who scarcely allowed them to move or +breathe, which, joined to the heat of the weather and the +insufferable stench, rendered their situation truly comfortless and +distressing. + +They were at length removed from this horrible hole, and conducted to +a hut in the heart of the town, in which wood fires had been burning +the whole of the day, so that the wall was almost as warm as the +sides of a heated oven, insomuch that it could scarcely be endured. +Yet, to render it more unpleasant still, a large closely woven mat +was placed before the door way, in order to prevent a thousand eyes +from staring in upon them, and which excluded every breath of air. +Their feelings during the whole of the night, were more distressing +than could be conceived; they were almost suffocated with the +closeness and intense heat of the room, and dreamt that they were +being baked alive in an oven. + +Bajiebo is a flourishing and important trading town, although not +walled, and one of the largest and most populous that they had yet +seen. The huts are erected so close to each other, and with so little +regard to comfort, and a free circulation of air, that there is +scarcely a foot path in the town wide enough for more than one man to +walk on at a time, and not having the advantage of shady trees, the +heat of the town was excessive and distressing. + +The power of the Fellatas was here evidently very great. One of their +number was styled chief, and had more authority and influence than +the native ruler. They were obliged to make a present to each of +these individuals, and other high and mighty personages were likewise +desirous of obtaining a similar favour at their hands, but they made +light of their conversation, and would not understand their enigmas. +Before sunrise on the 5th October, their luggage was removed +to the beach, and between six and seven o'clock they were once more +upon the water. In the course of an hour after leaving Bajiebo, they +passed by two towns of considerable extent, and in about an hour +afterwards they arrived at an extensive town called Lechee, inhabited +by Noufanchie, and said to be a place of considerable rank and +consequence. Here they landed by express desire, and finding an empty +grass hut near the spot, they entered and took possession of it, till +such time as the chief should be made acquainted with their arrival. +Here also their canoe men left them and returned to Bajiebo, where +they had hired them. + +They were not suffered to wait long, but in a few minutes received an +invitation from the chief to come and see him; and having walked +through a good part of the town, they at length approached his +residence, and were introduced without ceremony or hindrance, into a +large and lofty hut, where they discovered the chief sitting on a +platform of mud, in great state, with about forty natives and +Fellatas in earnest conversation on each side of him. He received +them with great civility, and many demonstrations of gladness, and +desired them to draw near his person, that he might have a better +opportunity of looking at and talking to them. He appeared, however, +unwilling for them to quit Lechee till the following day, and pressed +them strongly to remain with him for the day, which, however, not all +his solicitations nor importunities could induce them to accede to. +After some trifling conversation, and a long and pithy harangue from +a Fellata, they took their leave of him and his people, and instantly +made their way back to the water side, where they waited in the grass +hut for the appearance of the canoe men, with whom the chief had +promised to supply them. After a considerable delay, a man for each +canoe could only be procured, so that two of their own people were +obliged to supply the place of others, as well as they could. Having +got into their canoes, they pushed off from the shore, and proceeded +at a good rate down the stream, along the side of a considerable +island, which was within gunshot of the town, and after passing a +large open village of respectable appearance, which was on the +western bank, they put in at a small town, a few miles below, also on +the Yarriba side of the river, where they were constrained to go in +quest of other canoe men, because those from Lechee, though they had +been with them only forty minutes, and had certainly not laboured +very hard, had refused to proceed with them any further, nor could +all their enticements induce them to forego the resolution which they +had taken. The Landers were detained in their canoes for an hour and +a half, exposed to a scorching sun, in order to obtain fresh canoe +men. They at last proceeded on their journey, and in the evening +arrived at a fishing town on a small island, which was called Madjie, +and belonged to the Noufanchie. Here they were received with +cheerfulness by the chief, who accommodated them with a roomy hut, +sent them a quantity of dressed provisions, and otherwise treated +them in the most hospitable manner. + +At nine in the following morning, they landed near a small town to +procure a fresh supply of canoe men, and having obtained them, they +journeyed along the eastern side of the river, and in a few hours +afterwards, they perceived the smoke of the far-famed Rabba ascending +many miles before them. They stopped for a short time at a low, flat, +swampy island called Belee, and visited a mean, dirty-looking town, +where they were in a short time introduced to the chief, who, +according to the report of their messenger, was a great, rich, and +important personage. He informed them, that Mohammed, the magia's +son, who had left them at Patashie, had returned from his father, in +pursuance of his agreement, but instead of remaining at Rabba, as +they had expected, he had come over to Belee, and had been waiting +three days on the island in expectation of their arrival. The +governor further informed them, that they would be obliged to remain +at Belee, till the return of Mohammed to the island, for he had news +of importance to communicate to them. "To-morrow," he said, "you will +leave hence, and proceed to another island, which is further down the +river, wherein it is arranged that you shall abide till your affairs +be finally adjusted." There was some mystery about this information, +which was unexpected by the Landers, and not very gratifying to them. + +It was the evening before Mohammed returned to Belee, and he +presented himself before them in a dripping state, with an excuse, +that he had been upset in a canoe two or three times. After the first +salutation was over, he informed them of his visit to his father, and +its result. The magia had desired him to assure them of his best +wishes in their welfare, and his determination to protect, support, +and encourage them, as far as he was able. Mohammed then drew their +attention to a young man, who had entered the hut with him, but whom +they had not before observed, and introduced him as a messenger sent +to them by the Fellata prince of Rabba. This man said, that his +master, named Mallam Dendo, had commissioned him to acquaint them, +that he heartily concurred with the king of Nouffie in the favourable +opinions and sentiments which the latter entertained for them. With +respect to their visiting Rabba, which he understood they were very +much disinclined to do, he should not urge them, and rather imagined +that they would be more comfortable and enjoy greater tranquillity, +on an inland on the opposite side of the river, where he would +recommend them to stop. The Fellata messenger concluded by observing, +that they would be visited on the morrow by _the king of the dark +water_, who would escort them to the island in question, of which he +was the governor. + +As early as five o'clock on the following morning, their canoes were +loaded, and having breakfasted on a slice of yam, they were fully +prepared to quit the island. But as it was not deemed either politic +or proper to go away till the arrival of the great _king of the dark +water_, who was hourly expected, and who might be inclined to +construe their departure into contempt, they consented to await his +coming. Rather, however, than remain in a close black hut, full of +men, whose garments were generally covered with vermin, and rarely if +ever cleaned, and who made it a common practice to sit on the mat +where the two Landers slept, rather than undergo such a nuisance, +they stepped into their canoes, and having pushed off from the land, +they waited the arrival of the king of the dark water under the +branches of a large tree, at a little distance from the town. + +Between nine and ten, they heard a number of men singing, and keeping +time to the motion of many paddles, and in a very few minutes, a +canoe, which was paddled by a few men only, came in sight, and they +knew by this that the water king was approaching. It was instantly +followed by another, and much larger one, propelled by above twenty +very fine young men, whose voices they had been listening to just +before, and who were still continuing their song. The king of the +dark water was with them. As the canoe drew nearer, they were not +only surprised at its extraordinary length and uncommon neatness, but +likewise at the unusual display of pomp and show which were +observable in her. In the centre a mat awning was erected, which was +variously decorated, and on the front of it hung a large piece of +scarlet cloth, ornamented with bits of gold lace stitched on +different parts of it. In the bow of the canoe were three or four +little boys of equal size, who were clad with neatness and propriety; +and in the stern sat a number of comely looking musicians, consisting +of several drummers and a trumpeter, whilst the young men, who had +the management of the boat, were not inferior to their companions +either in decency of apparel or respectability of appearance. + +As soon as their canoe arrived at the landing place, the water king +came out from beneath the awning, and followed by the musicians and a +suite of attendants, walked to the hut, in which all public matters +were transacted, and whither in a few minutes the Landers were +desired to repair. The chief of the island, with his elders and the +more respectable of the people were seated, on their entrance, on +each side of their important visitor, and the two Landers, as a mark +of distinction, were invited to place themselves in front of him. +When the usual compliments had passed on both sides, he informed +them, with much solemnity, of his rank and title, he then alluded to +the cause of his coming, which he said, was to do them honour, and +repeated what had been previously told them by the king's son. This +being done, he presented them with a pot of excellent honey, and two +thousand cowries in money, with a large quantity of goora nuts, and +which are held in such high esteem that the opulent and powerful +alone have the means of procuring them. Having nothing further to say +or do, they shook hands with his sable majesty, whose name was +Suliken Rouah, expressed their acknowledgement for his handsome +present, and returned to their boats. + +It was exactly mid-day when Suliken Rouah re-embarked in his princely +canoe, and quitted the island of Belee. Determined for once to make +an attempt at a more respectable appearance, for heretofore it had +been extremely mean and homely, they hastily constructed an awning of +their sheets. It was the first time they had made use of such a +thing, though they were without umbrellas, and till then had nothing +but slight straw hats to protect their heads from the sun. Above the +awning, they elevated a slender staff, on the top of which they +fastened the national colours, the union flag, which was kindly given +them by a gentleman on the coast, who was commandant of Anamaboo. +When unfurled and waving in the wind, it looked extremely pretty, and +it made their hearts glow with pride and enthusiasm as they looked on +this solitary little banner. They thought it would also be of service +to them, if they made as gay an appearance as the king and his +followers, and accordingly Richard Lander put on an old naval uniform +coat, which he had with him for state occasions, and John Lander +dressed himself in as grotesque and gaudy a manner as their resources +would afford. Their eight attendants also put on new white mahommedan +tobes, so that their canoe, with its white awning, surmounted by the +union flag, their canoe men in new dresses, and themselves appearing +as officers, contributed not a little to the effect of the whole +scene. The august king of the dark water, with his retinue in twenty +canoes, condescendingly gave them the precedence, and theirs was the +first that moved off from land, and led the way down the river +towards Rabba. + +For a little while, they continued to take the lead, but the chief +soon went before them for two reasons, first, that he might have an +opportunity of looking at them, and secondly, that they might have a +fairer chance of seeing him in all his state, for which purpose, he +had placed himself outside his awning, on an elevated and conspicuous +seat. However, he only wished to get a few yards before them, for his +canoe men soon lifted their paddles out of the water, and the boat +fell back to its former situation. The musicians in the large canoe +performed merrily on their instruments, and about twenty persons now +sung at intervals in recitative, keeping excellent time with their +paddles. + +A brisk wind sprung up the river full in their faces, relieving them +from the extreme heat of the weather, which was remarkably fine; the +scene before them was very animating, and the whole of them were in +high glee and spirits. Other canoes joined them, and never did the +British flag lead so extraordinary a squadron. The king of the dark +water might have been mistaken for a river god, and his wives, now +and then showing their pretty black faces from under the awning, cast +many an arch look at them with their sparkling, jetty eyes. + +It was not long before their reverie was interrupted by a great noise +from the adjacent land, and on turning, they perceived the banks of +an island, called Zagozhi, which was lined with numbers of people, +admiring their flag, and watching them very earnestly, by which they +guessed that this was the place of their destination. The island was +so uncommonly low that the houses and trees appeared as if they were +standing in the water, as indeed many of them actually were. Theirs +being the first canoe, before they landed on the island, they waited +for the king to precede them, and the moment he set his foot on +shore, they fired a salute of four muskets and three pistols. The +king of the dark water was rather alarmed at this, and demanded +whether they were going to make war on him, but he was soon relieved +from his fear, by being told that it was an honour that they had been +in the habit of paying to all the princes, whom they had met in their +travels; which he no sooner understood, than he expressed himself +much gratified by their attention. + +The king himself went in quest of a dwelling house, and conducted +them to one of the best which the island afforded; it was, however, +miserably bad, for as the town was built on a marsh, every hut in it +had the disadvantage, during the whole of the rainy season, of soft +damp floors, and uncomfortable roofs. Their own hut had positively +pools of water springing up out of the ground. The walls of the hut +were built of mud from the river, strengthened and supported by +wooden pillars, and ribs of the same materials; however, these do not +prevent them from cracking in a hundred different places, and large +chinks, admitting wind and rain, may be observed in the walls of +every hut. They have all a very dirty and wretched appearance, +although their inmates, generally speaking, were understood to be +clean, opulent, and respectable. Having conducted them to the hut, +the chief of the island shook hands with them very heartily, and +assured them they should want for nothing. He soon provided them with +doors of bamboo for their hut, and a number of mats to spread on the +floor, which made it tolerably comfortable. In the evening, four +large calabashes of stewed rice with fowls, and no less than ten +gallons of _petto_ or country beer were sent them. + +About seven in the evening, messengers arrived from Rabba, to inform +them that they should come early in the morning for the presents +intended for their chief. They said that the king would not put them +to the trouble of going to see him, as the town was full of Arabs, +whose begging propensities would be very inconvenient to them. The +Landers were much pleased with this intelligence, knowing very well +the character of the Arabs, and they sent back word, that they would +be still more obliged to him, if he would dispense with their going +to the sansan, or camp, at a short distance from the town, to visit +the king of Nouffie. + +Rabba stands in an opposite direction to Zagozhi, and appears at the +distance of about two miles, to be an immensely large, populous, and +flourishing town. It is built on the slope of a gentle hill, and on a +spot almost entirely bare of trees; the Niger here flowed in a +direction to the south of east. + + + +CHAPTER XXXVII. + +According to their announcement on the preceding day, the messengers +from the chiefs arrived, bringing with them two fine sheep and a +great quantity of rice, and it appeared that they would be required +to give presents to nine people, before they should be able to get +away from the place. + +Having prepared the presents, the messengers were collected, and +Richard Lander laid before each of them those that were intended for +their masters, and in order to make them some reward, and secure +their good will, he gave something to each of them, and dismissed +them. + +On the following morning they were visited by two young men, Arabs, +from Rabba, one of whom was very eager to claim acquaintance with +Richard Lander, and to bring to his memory certain scenes which had +taken place on his former journey to Houssa. Having in some degree +recovered from his surprise at his salutation, on looking at him more +attentively, he recognized in him the very same individual, that had +been employed by Captain Clapperton, whom he had abused and cheated, +and who was subsequently engaged by Lander himself as a guide from +Kano. He was the same person also, who decamped with Captain Pearce's +sword, and a large sum of money in kowries. The fellow, however, on +being taxed with his dishonesty, made very light of his offence, and +with the utmost effrontery begged every thing that he saw, so that +the Landers lost their temper with the scoundrel, and turned him out +of the hut in disgust. He, however, could not believe that they were +in earnest with him, "Oh, it must be all sport," said he, but at last +they threatened to shoot him, if ho did not go about his business, +and being apprehensive that they would put their threats into +execution, he ran off as fast as he could. + +The market at Rabba is very celebrated, and considered by traders as +one of the largest and best in the whole country, of which it may be +styled the emporium. On one market day, between one and two hundred +men, women, and children were exposed for sale in ranks and lines, +like the oxen at Smithfield. These poor creatures had for the most +part been captured in war. The price of a strong healthy lad was +about forty thousand kowries, (£8 sterling,) a girl fetches about +fifty thousand, and perhaps more, if she be at all interesting. The +value of men and women varies according to their age, and abilities. + +The situation of the travellers now assumed a critical aspect, for +early one morning, Mallam Dendo, the old king of Rabba sent for +Pascoe in a great hurry, with a message that he was waiting +impatiently his arrival at Rabba, having something of the utmost +consequence to communicate. As may be easily conjectured, the Landers +were rather surprised at this unexpected summons, and waited Pascoe's +return with much anxiety, for they had no doubt whatever, that +themselves were principally concerned in it. When, however, he _did_ +come back, and entered the hut, he looked very wistfully, and +informed them with considerable agitation both of voice and manner, +that Mallam Dendo had expressed to him the greatest dissatisfaction +at the things which he had received from them as presents, declaring +them to be perfectly worthless, and with the exception of the +looking-glass, "fit only for a child," that he well knew they could +have sent him something more useful and of greater value, if they had +thought proper; but that if they persisted in their refusal to do so, +he should demand of them their guns, pistols, and powder, before he +would consent or permit them to leave Zagozhi. + +This news made them very uneasy and unhappy, and they sat down in +gloom and thoughtfulness without uttering a word, for they believed +this to be a death-blow to all their hones. To part with the only +defensive weapons in their possession, they felt determined not to +do, for they knew if they were to be deprived of them, they should be +entirely in the power of a set of fellows remarkable neither for +generosity nor nobleness of principle, without the means of helping +themselves, and they resolved never to part with their guns, unless +compelled to do so by the most urgent necessity. Having reflected +deliberately on their situation, they felt convinced that something +on their part must be done by way of conciliation, if they had any +intention of quitting the country, and of prosecuting their +enterprise. On a sudden, they thought of Mr. Park's tobe, which was +given to them by the king of Boossa, and they hoped that in +consequence of the splendour of its appearance, and its intrinsic +value, it might prove an acceptable present to the covetous prince, +and be the means of effecting a perfect reconciliation between them. +They therefore immediately despatched Ibrahim with it to Rabba, +although their hearts misgave them at the time, that it would, after +all, be thought lightly of, as an excuse for further extortions. + +In this, however, they were agreeably disappointed, for in less than +two hours after his departure, Ibrahim returned from his errand with +a quick step and cheerful looks, and informed them that the tobe was +accepted by the prince with rapturous admiration. By this present +they had made him their friend for ever. "Ask the white men," said +he, "what they would desire, and if Rabba can supply them with it, +tell them they shall always have it. Well," he continued, "I must +purchase this tobe, I will not accept it as a gift; that would be +against my principles, and besides, it would be wrong for me to be +guilty of such injustice. Now I shall be something like a king," he +added, turning the tobe inside and out; "let no man know of it, my +neighbours will behold me with envy, and as for my own people, I will +surprise them some morning by putting it on when they are going to +war: it will dazzle their eyes. How great will be their +astonishment?" In this manner the king of the Fellatas talked to +Ibrahim. + +On the following day, Pascoe was sent to Rabba, well tutored by his +masters, and in consequence of the offer made by the king to make +them any compensation for the handsome tobe, Pascoe informed him, +that the first wish of the white men was to obtain a large canoe, and +to pursue their journey on the Niger as fast as possible. He promised +to settle the business of the canoe, and sent some presents to the +Landers, which at the time were very acceptable. + +They had, however, scarcely got over the dilemma with the king of +Rabba, than a messenger arrived to that monarch from the king of +Nouffie, who had despatched him privately to Mallam Dendo, with an +intimation to him, that if it met with his approbation, he (the +magia) would order the white men to be detained at Zagozhi, until +they would consent to make him a present of a certain number of +dollars, or something equivalent to them in value; that he +disbelieved the story of their poverty altogether, and would +therefore search their luggage, in order to discover whether their +assertion were true or false, that they had no greater presents to +make. + +So much dissimulation, meanness, and rapacity, which this trait in +his character exhibited, they had little reason to expect from the +king of Nouffie, after expressing for them so warmly and repeatedly +as he had done, protestations of the most cordial, candid, and +lasting friendship. They could not forbear feeling very indignant at +this foul breach of the laws of hospitality and good faith, which +previously to this act, they had experienced in every part of the +country. Perhaps it was well that they had presented the prince of +Rabba with Mr. Park's tobe, for he treated the message and its bearer +with contempt, and answered energetically, "Tell the magia, your +sovereign, that I would rebuke him for this expression of his +sentiments, and that I detest his base insinuations; that I will +never consent to his wishes, and that I reject his proposal with +disdain. What! shall the white men, who have come from such distant +lands to visit our country, who have spent their substance amongst +us, and made us presents before we had leisure to do any good for +them, shall they be treated so inhumanly? never! They have worn their +shoes from their feet, and their clothes from their persons, by the +length and tediousness of their journeys; they have thrown themselves +into our hands, to claim our protection and partake of our +hospitality; shall we treat them as robbers, and cast them from us +like dogs? Surely not. What would our neighbours, what would our +friends--our foes say to this? What could be a greater reproach than +the infamy, which would attach itself to our characters, and to our +name, should we treat these poor, unprotected, wandering strangers, +and white men too, in the manner your monarch, the king of Nouffie +proposes? After they have been received and entertained with so much +hospitality and honour in Yarriba, at Wowow, and at Boossa, shall it +be said that Rabba treated them badly? that she shut her doors upon +them and plundered them? No, never! I have already given my word to +protect them, and I will not forfeit that sacred pledge for all the +guns and swords in the world." Such was the answer of a man whom we +call a savage--it was worthy of a prince and a Christian. + +It was now high time that their journey should be completed, for +their goods were very nearly exhausted, and so far from being in a +condition to make further presents, their means were scarcely +adequate to procure the bare necessaries of life. Their stock of +cloth, looking-glasses, snuff-boxes, knives, scissors, razors, and +tobacco pipes, had been already given away, and they had only needles +and a few silver bracelets left, to present to the chiefs whom they +might reasonably expect to fall in with on their voyage down the +Niger. + +The population of Zagozhi cannot well be estimated on account of its +lowness, and the prevailing flatness of the country round, on which +neither a hillock nor eminence of any kind can be discerned. However, +it must be immense, and the Landers considered it to be one of the +most extensive and thickly inhabited towns, as well as one of the +most important trading places in the whole kingdom of Nouffie, not +excepting even Coulfoo. + +Having at length received permission to quit Zagozhi on the following +day, to pursue their journey down the Niger, they made the necessary +preparations for their departure. They were in hope of obtaining a +canoe capable of holding the whole of their party, as it would be a +much more satisfactory arrangement for them, and more convenient than +two small ones. The chief of the island promised to send a messenger +with them as far as Egga, which was the last town down the river +belonging to the Nouffie territory. The chief was, however, unwilling +to part with a canoe under any consideration, yet as a token of his +friendship and regard, he offered to spare them one for twenty +thousand kowries, in addition to their own canoe, which they had +brought from Patashie. A messenger from the prince of Rabba arrived +just after this proposal had been made to them, with full powers to +treat with the "King of the dark water" for the canoe. In a short +time, he returned from his errand, with the pleasing intelligence of +his having succeeded in obtaining the long-talked-of canoe, and which +was to be in readiness to receive them on board at an early hour on +the following morning. + +On Friday, October 16th, they rose at an early hour, to pack up their +clothes, and to get their luggage ready for embarkation. But when +this was all done, they met with a sudden and unforeseen +embarrassment, for the sable king of the dark water laughed at the +idea of giving them a canoe on the faith of receiving payment from +the prince of the Fellatas, and at first, he even refused to deliver +up their own canoe, which they had brought from Patashie, and which +they had kept with so much anxiety and trouble. At length, however, +he consented to restore to them all their property, and the whole of +the articles were accordingly moved into the canoes. + +When all this was done, and they were quite ready to start, the old +chief came down to the water side to bid them farewell, according to +his avowed purpose, but in reality to offer them a commodious canoe +in exchange for their own, if they would consent to give him ten +thousand kowries in addition to them. They had fortunately realized a +sufficient number of kowries from the sale of needles at Rabba, and +while Richard Lander was shifting the things from their own canoe +into another, John Lander walked back with the old chief to his +residence, where he found all the people of the house gathered round +the trunk of a large tree, which was burning in the hut. Here he paid +the chief ten thousand kowries for the canoe, which having done, he +rejoined his brother at the water side. + +The canoes made here are of a particular description, very much +resembling what are called punts in England, but are perfectly +straight and flat bottomed. They are generally formed out of one log +of wood, and are of an immense size; that which the Landers +purchased, was about fifteen feet in length and four in breadth, but +they are sometimes made nearly as large again. To this offer the +Landers most willingly acceded, and as soon as all the goods were +transferred into the purchased canoe, they found, after all, that it +was not nearly large enough for their purpose, independently of its +being extremely leaky, and patched up in a thousand places; they had +been prevented from perceiving the canoe's defect before, by the +excitement of preparation, and the hurry of departure. They now saw +that they had been cheated by the artful king of the dark water, but +rather than enter into an interminable dispute on the subject, which +might involve them in further difficulties, they held their peace and +put up with the imposition without a murmur; after, getting all their +luggage into her, they waited for the arrival of a messenger, who was +to have accompanied them a little way on their journey, but as he did +not come, they resolved to depart without him, so bidding farewell to +the king of the dark water, and hundreds of spectators who were +gazing at them, they fired two muskets, and launching out into the +river, they were soon out of sight of Zagozhi. + + + +CHAPTER XXXVIII. + +They paddled along the banks at a distance of not less than thirty +miles, every inch of which they had attentively examined, but not a +bit of dry land could anywhere be discovered, which was firm enough +to bear their weight. Therefore, they resigned themselves to +circumstances, and all of them having been refreshed with a little +cold rice and honey, and water from the stream, they permitted the +canoe to drive down with the current, for their men were too much +fatigued with the labours of the day to work any longer. But here a +fresh evil arose, which they were unprepared to meet. An incredible +number of hippopotami arose very near them, and came plashing and +snorting and plunging all round the canoe, and placed them in +imminent danger. Thinking to frighten them off, they fired a shot or +two at them, but the noise only called up from the water, and out of +the fens, about as many more of their unwieldy companions, and they +were more closely beset than before. Their people, who had never in +all their lives been exposed in a canoe to such huge and formidable +beasts, trembled with fear and apprehension, and absolutely wept +aloud; their terror was not a little increased by the dreadful peals +of thunder, which rattled over their heads, and by the awful darkness +which prevailed, broken at intervals by flashes of lightning, whose +powerful glare was truly awful. + +However, the hippopotami did them no kind of mischief whatever; no +doubt at first when they interrupted them, they were only sporting +and wallowing in the river for their own amusement, but had they +upset the canoe, the travellers would have paid dearly for it. + +Having travelled, according to their own computation, a distance +little short of a hundred miles, they stopped at a small +insignificant fishing village called _Dacannie_, where they were very +glad to land. The Niger here presented a very magnificent appearance; +and was reckoned to be nearly eight miles in breadth. + +Whilst they were at breakfast, under the shelter of a tree, the +promised messenger from Zagozhi arrived, and introduced himself to +them. He said that he had followed their track during the night, and +had heard the report of their guns, but though he strove to come up +with them, yet he had not been able. + +It was between nine and ten in the morning, that the guide desired +them to proceed onwards, promising to follow them in a few minutes. +With this arrangement they cheerfully complied, and instantly pushed +off the shore, for of all persons, a messenger is the most unpleasant +companion; he is fond of procrastination, sullen when rebuked, and +stops at every paltry village wherein he fancies that he can levy his +contributions without the fear of interruption. + +The messenger, whom they had left at Dacannie, soon overtook them, +and kept company with them till they drew near to two cities of +prodigious extent, one on each side of the river, and directly +opposite each other. To that lying on the right, the guide expressed +his intention of going, and endeavoured to entice the Landers with +many promises to accompany him there, but they refused, for they had +formed a resolution to husband their resources to the utmost of their +ability, and consequently to land at little hamlets only, where they +might do just as they pleased, without being amenable for their +actions to those powerful beings, who are styled "the mighty" of the +earth. + +They now took leave of the Zagozhi messenger, who promised to follow +them as before, and in an hour afterwards they put into a small +village, situated on an island called Gungo, the natives of which +appeared to be a mild, inoffensive, quiet, and good-natured people. +About sunset, the inhabitants of the whole island, amounting to about +a hundred men, women, and children, dressed in very decent apparel, +and headed by their chief, a venerable old man, paid them a visit. +The chief was dressed in the mahommedan costume, and he arranged his +people, and made them sit down round the hut which the Landers +occupied, in the most orderly manner. The men evinced no alarm, but +the women and pretty little plump-faced children were much frightened +at their white faces, and seemed not a little glad to get away. +Before they retired, they distributed about two hundred needles among +them, and they went away highly pleased with their present. + +At Zagozhi, they had been strongly recommended to put into a large +and important trading town called _Egga_, which was reported to be +three days journey down the river from thence, and they had been +promised a guide or messenger to accompany them thither, but they had +neither heard nor seen any thing of him since the preceding day. From +motives of prudence, however, they thought proper to make inquiries +concerning the Egga, of which they had been told, lest by any means, +they should pass it without seeing it. + +About mid-day they touched at a large village to inquire whereabouts +Egga lay, and they were informed that they had not a long way to go. +They journeyed onwards for about an hour, when they perceived a +large, handsome town, behind a deep morass. It was the +long-sought-for Egga, and they instantly proceeded up a creek to the +landing place. The town was upwards of two miles in length, they +halted a few minutes before landing, no one having conveyed +intelligence of their arrival to the chief. A young Fellata was the +first who invited them on shore, and they despatched Pascoe to the +chief to tell him who they were, and what they wanted. He quickly +returned, saying that the old chief was ready to receive them, and +they immediately proceeded to his residence. + +In a few minutes, they arrived at the Zollahe or entrance hut, in +which they found the old man ready to receive them. They discovered +him squatting on a cow's hide, spread on the ground, smoking from a +pipe of about three yards long, and surrounded by a number of +Fellatas, and several old mallams. They were welcomed in the most +friendly and cordial manner, and as a mark of peculiar distinction, +they were invited to seat themselves near the person of the chief. He +looked at them with surprise from head to foot, and told them that +they were strange-looking people, and well worth seeing. Having +satisfied his curiosity, he sent for all his old wives, that they +might do the same; but as they did not altogether relish so much +quizzing, they requested to be shown to a hut. A house, "fit for a +king," to use his own expression, was speedily got ready for their +reception, and as soon as he had learnt with surprise, that they +subsisted on the same kind of food as himself, they were led to their +dwelling, and before evening received a bowl of tuah and gravy from +his wives. They were soon pestered with the visits of the mallams and +the chief's wives, the latter of whom brought them presents of goora +nuts as a sort of introduction to see them. As soon as the news of +their arrival spread through the town, the people flocked by hundreds +to their hut, for the purpose of satisfying their curiosity with a +sight of the white people. The mallams and the king's wives had given +them trouble enough, but the whole population of Egga was too much +for them, so that they were literally obliged to blockade the +doorways, and station three of their people at each to keep them +away. + +The Landers were extremely anxious to expedite their departure from +Egga, for although the old chief was extremely kind and hospitable, +yet the annoyance from the natives was more than could be borne; for +they never could have a moment of rest, their windows and doorways +being blocked up by visitors, so that they were literally prevented +from inhaling the fresh air, but were like prisoners in a cage to be +examined and quizzed by every one, who thought they could pass their +jokes with impunity. + +Having expressed their intention of continuing their journey, the +elders of the town remonstrated with them, that it would be highly +dangerous to go by themselves, and endeavoured to persuade them to +alter the arrangement for their own sakes. They promised to procure +them a convoy of traders, if they would consent to wait three days +longer, which was to leave Egga at the end of that time to attend a +famous market called Bocqua. When they sent word to the chief that +they intended departing on the following day, he begged of them to +remain a few days longer, declaring the banks of the river to be +inhabited by people, who were little better than savages, and +plundered every one that came near them. He was then asked, if he +would send a messenger with them, but he refused, saying, that the +Fellata power and his own extended no further down the river; that +Egga was the last town of Nouffie, and that none of his people traded +below it. "If that be the case," said Richard Lander, "it will be as +safe for us to go to-morrow as any other day," and with this +determination he left him. + +He then proceeded to give directions for his people to prepare +themselves for starting, when to the great astonishment of himself +and his brother, Pascoe and the mulatto Ibrahim were the only two who +agreed to go, the rest of them refusing to a man. Richard said all he +could to them to change their determination; he talked to them half +an hour, telling them they were cowards, and that his life and that +of his brother were as good as theirs, but he could not make the +slightest impression upon them, and therefore told them to go out of +his sight, and that they would do without them. Partly, however, by +threats, and partly by bribes, the men agreed to accompany them, +although the impression could not be effaced from their minds, that +they were going where they should be murdered, or at least sold as +slaves. + +At length every thing being in readiness, they bade farewell to the +old chief, and several of the principal inhabitants came hurrying +down to the waterside to take their leave, to give them their +blessing, and to wish them a successful voyage. The men at first +paddled sluggishly, and the canoe went slowly through the water, for +which reason they were two hours before they reached the middle of +the river. A few miles from the town, they saw with emotions of +pleasure a seagull, which flew over their heads, which to them was a +most gratifying sight, for it reminded them forcibly of the object +which they had in view, and they fondly allowed it to confirm their +hopes, that they were drawing very near their journey's end. + +For many miles they could see nothing but large, open, well-built +villages on both banks of the river, but more especially on the +eastern, yet they touched at none of these goodly places, but +continued their journey till the sun began to decline, when they +stopped at a small hamlet on an island, with the intention of +sleeping there, cut the inhabitants mistrusted their intentions, and +were alarmed at their appearance; they would not even grant them an +accommodation for the night, although they assured them, that the +most homely, the most shattered hut would answer their purpose; +fearing, however, that they might enforce their request, they did all +they could to induce them to proceed onwards a little further, when +they would arrive at a city of considerable importance called +Kacunda, where plenty of provisions could be obtained, and where the +inhabitants would pay the greatest attention to them. + +Kacunda is situated on the western bank of the river, and at a little +distance, it has an advantageous and uncommonly fine appearance. The +only access to the town was by winding channels, that interspersed an +unwholesome swamp, nearly two miles in breadth. It was evening when +they arrived there, and the people at first were alarmed at their +appearance, but they were soon welcomed on shore by an old mahommedan +priest, who speedily introduced them into an excellent and commodious +hut, once the residence of a prince, but then the domicile of a +schoolmaster. + +Kacunda, properly speaking, consists of three or four villages, all +of them considerably large, but unconnected, though situated within a +very short distance of each other. It is the capital of a state or +kingdom of the same name, which is quite independent of Nouffie, or +any other foreign power. The only dress that the natives wear, is a +piece of cotton cloth round the loins. The women wear small ear-rings +of silver, but use no paint, nor do they bedaub their persons with +any sort of pigment. + +On the morning subsequently to their arrival, a large double bank +canoe arrived at Kacunda, and they shortly found that the king's +brother had come in her to pay them a visit. He was saluted on +landing with a discharge from five old rusty muskets. A messenger was +immediately despatched to the Landers, announcing that he was ready +to see them. Their meeting was very cordial, and they shook hands +heartily with him, and explained to him their business. He brought a +goat as a present, and in return Richard Lander presented him with a +pair of silver bracelets, but he did not appear to be much interested +about them, or indeed to care at all for them, but looking round +their room, he perceived several little things to which he took a +fancy, and which being of no value whatever to them, were readily +presented to him. + +They had now become great friends, and he commenced giving them a +dreadful account of the natives down the river, and advised them by +no means to go amongst them, but return by the way they had come. He +said to them with much emphasis, "If you go down the river, you will +surely fall into their hands and be murdered." "Go we must," said +Richard Lander, "if we live or die by it, and that also on the +morrow." He was then asked if he would send a messenger with them, +for that he might ensure their safety, coming from so powerful a +person as the chief of Kacunda. But he replied directly, "No, if I +were to do such a thing, the people at the next town would assuredly +cut off his head;" but, he added, "if you will not be persuaded by me +to turn back, and save your lives, at least you must not leave this +by day light, but stop until the sun goes down, and then you may go +on your journey, you will then pass the most dangerous town in the +middle of the night, and perhaps save yourselves." He was asked, if +the people of whom he spoke had muskets, or large canoes. To which he +replied, "Yes, in great numbers, they are very large and powerful, +and no canoe can pass down the river in the day time, without being +taken by them and plundered; and even at night, the canoes from here +are obliged to go in large numbers, and keep close company with each +other to make a formidable appearance in case of their being seen by +them." + +The Landers had no reason whatever to doubt this information, and +being aware how little they could do, if they should be attacked by +these formidable fellows, they determined on going at night, +according to the custom of the natives, and proposed starting at four +o'clock on the evening of the morrow. The chief's brother was +apprised of their intentions, at which he seemed quite astonished, +and they doubted not that this determined conduct, which they had +every where shown, and apparent defiance of all danger, in making +light of the dreadful stories, which were related to them, had great +influence on the minds of the people, and no doubt inspired them with +a belief that they were supernatural beings, gifted with more than +ordinary qualifications. Having communicated their intentions to +their friend, and given him all the little trifling things he wished +for, he departed with the present for his brother the chief. + +On the following day, he again paid them a visit, urging them by +every argument which he could think of, to defer their departure for +their own sakes for two or three days, in order that canoes might be +got ready to accompany them on their voyage, and he endeavoured again +to impress upon their minds the danger, which they should inevitably +incur, if they were determined to go alone. They, however, paid +little attention to his remarks, further than that they consented to +wait till the afternoon, for a man to accompany them in the capacity +of messenger, to the so much talked of Bocqua market, where, it was +asserted, they should be perfectly safe, and beyond which place the +people were represented as being less rapacious, so that little fear +was to be entertained from them. As the afternoon approached, they +inquired in vain for the promised guide, and when they found that the +chief, or rather his brother, felt no disposition whatever to redeem +his pledge, they made immediate preparations to leave the town, to +the manifest disappointment of the latter, who made a very dolorous +lament, and did all in his power, except employing actual force, to +induce them to change their resolution. + +They now ordered Pascoe and their people to commence loading the +canoe, but the poor fellows were all in tears and trembled with fear; +one of them in particular, a native of Bonny, said, that he did not +care for himself, as his own life was of little consequence, all he +feared was, that his masters would be murdered, and as he had been +with them ever since they had left the sea, it would be as bad as +dying himself, to see them killed. + +In pursuance of their plans, on the same afternoon, they bade adieu +to the inhabitants of Kacunda, and every thing having been conveyed +to the canoe, they embarked and pushed off the shore, in the sight of +a multitude of people. They worked their way with incredible +difficulty through the morass, before they were able to get into the +body of the stream, and being now fairly off they prepared themselves +for the worst. "Now," said Richard Lander, "my boys," as their canoe +glided down with the stream, "let us all stick together; I hope that +we have none amongst us, who will flinch, come what may." + +They had proceeded some distance down the river, when seeing a +convenient place for landing, the men being languid and weary with +hunger and exhaustion, they halted on the right bank of the river, +which they imagined was most suitable for their purpose. The angry +and scowling appearance of the firmament forewarned them of a shower, +or something worse, which induced them hastily to erect an awning of +mats under a palm tree's shade. The spot for a hundred yards was +cleared of grass, underwood, and vegetation of all kinds: and very +shortly afterwards, as three of their men were straggling about in +the bush, searching for firewood, a village suddenly opened before +them; this did not excite their astonishment, and they entered one of +the huts which was nearest them, to procure a little fire. However, +it happened only to contain women, but these were terrified beyond +measure at the sudden and abrupt entrance of strange-looking men, +whose language they did not know, and whose business they could not +understand, and they all ran out in a fright into the woods, to warn +their male relatives of them, who were labouring at their usual +occupations of husbandry. Mean time, their men had very composedly +taken some burning embers from the fire, and returned to their +masters, with the brief allusion to the circumstance of having +discovered a village. This at the time was thought lightly of, but +they rejoiced that they had seen the village, and immediately sent +Pascoe, Ibrahim and Jowdie, in company to obtain some fire, and to +purchase some yams. In about ten minutes after, they returned in +haste, telling them that they had been to the village, and asked for +some fire, but that the people did not understand them, and instead +of attending to their wishes, they looked terrified, and had suddenly +disappeared. In consequence of their threatening attitudes, Pascoe +and his party had left the village, and hastened back to their +masters. + +Totally unconscious of danger, the Landers were reclining on their +mats, for they too, like their people, were wearied with toil, and +overcome with drowsiness, when in about twenty minutes after their +men had returned, one of them shouted with a loud voice, "War is +coming, O war is coming!" and ran towards them with a scream of +terror, telling them, that the natives were hastening to attack them. +They started up at this unusual exclamation, and looking about them, +they beheld a large party of men, almost naked, running in a very +irregular manner, and with uncouth gestures, towards their little +encampment. They were all variously armed with muskets, bows and +arrows, knives, cutlasses, barbs, long spears, and other instruments +of destruction; and as they gazed upon this band of wild men, with +their ferocious looks and hostile appearance, which was not a little +heightened on observing the weapons in their hands, they felt a very +uneasy kind of sensation, and wished themselves safe out of their +hands. + +Their party was at this time much scattered, but fortunately they +could see them coming to them at some distance, and they had time to +collect their men. They resolved, however, to prevent bloodshed, if +possible; their numbers were too few to leave them a chance of +escaping by any other way. The natives were approaching fast, and had +nearly arrived close to the palm tree. Not a moment was to be lost. +They desired Pascoe and all their men to follow behind them at a +short distance, with the loaded muskets and pistols; and they +enjoined them strictly not to fire, unless they were first fired at. +One of the natives, who proved to be the chief, was perceived to be a +little in advance of his companions, and throwing down their pistols, +which they had snatched up in the first moment of surprise, the two +Landers walked very composedly and unarmed towards him. As they +approached him, they made all the signs and motions they could with +their arms, to deter him and his people from firing on them. His +quiver was dangling at his side, his bow was bent, and an arrow, +which was pointed at their breasts, already trembled on the string, +when they were within a few yards of his person. This was a highly +critical moment--the next might be their last. But the hand of +Providence averted the blow, for just as the chief was about to pull +the fatal cord, a man that was nearest him rushed forward and stayed +his arm. At that instant the Landers stood before him, and +immediately held forth their hands; all of them trembling like aspen +leaves; the chief looked up full in their faces, kneeling on the +ground; light seemed to flash from his dark rolling eyes; his body +was convulsed all over, as though he was enduring the utmost torture, +and with a timorous, yet indefinable expression of countenance, in +which all the passions of human nature were strangely blended, he +drooped his head, eagerly grasped their proffered hands, and burst +into tears. This was a sign of friendship, harmony followed, and war +and bloodshed were thought of no more. Peace and friendship now +reigned amongst them, and the first thing that they did was, to lift +the old chief from the ground, and convey him to their encampment. + +The behaviour of their men afforded them no little amusement, now +that the danger was past. Pascoe was firm to his post, and stood +still with his musket pointed at the chief's breast during the whole +of the time. He was a brave fellow, and he said to his masters, as +they passed him to their encampment with the old man, "If the _black_ +rascals had fired at either of you, I would have brought the old +chief down like a guinea fowl." As for their two _brave_ fellows, +Sam and Antonio, they took to their heels, and scampered off as fast +as they could, directly they saw the natives approaching them over +the long grass, nor did they make their appearance again, until the +chief and all his people were sitting round them. + +All the armed villagers had now gathered round their leader, and +anxiously watched his looks and gestures. The result of the meeting +delighted them, every eye sparkled with pleasure; they uttered a +shout of joy; they thrust their bloodless arrows into their quivers; +they ran about as though they were possessed of evil spirits; they +twanged their bowstrings, fired off their muskets; shook their +spears; clattered their quivers; danced, put their bodies into all +manner of ridiculous positions; laughed, cried, and sung in rapid +succession; they were like a troop of maniacs. Never was a spectacle +more wild and terrific. When this sally of passion to which they had +worked themselves, had subsided into calmer and more reasonable +behaviour, the Landers presented each of the war-men with a number of +needles, as a farther token of their friendly intentions. The chief +sat himself down on the turf, with one of the Landers on each side of +him, while the men were leaning on their weapons on his right and +left. At first, no one could understand what the Landers said, but +shortly after an old man made his appearance, who understood the +Houssa language. Him the chief employed as an interpreter, and every +one listened with anxiety to the following explanation given by the +chief. + +"A few minutes after you first landed, one of my people came to me, +and said that a number of strange people had arrived at the market +place. I sent him back again to get as near to you as he could, to +hear what you intended doing. He soon after returned to me, and said +that you spoke in a language which he could not understand. Not +doubting that it was your intention to attack my village at night, +and carry off my people, I desired them to get ready to fight. We +were all prepared and eager to kill you, and came down breathing +vengeance and slaughter, supposing that you were my enemies, and had +landed from the opposite side of the river. But when you came to meet +us unarmed, and we saw your white faces, we were all so frightened +that we could not pull our bows, nor move hand or foot; and when you +drew near me, and extended your hands towards me, I felt my heart +faint within me, and believed that you were _Children of Heaven_, and +had dropped from the skies." Such was the effect that the Landers had +produced on him, and under this impression, he knew not what he did. +"And now," said he, "white men, all I want is your forgiveness." +"That you shall have most heartily," said the Landers, as they shook +hands with the old chief; and having taken care to assure him that +they had not come from so good a place as he had imagined, they +congratulated themselves, as well as him, that this affair had ended +so happily. For their own parts, they had reason to feel the most +unspeakable pleasure at its favourable termination, and they offered +up internally to their merciful Creator, a prayer of thanksgiving and +praise for his providential interference in their behalf. It was +indeed a narrow escape, and it was happy for them that their white +faces and calm behaviour produced the effect it did on these people; +in another minute their bodies would have been as full of arrows as a +porcupine's is full of quills. + +They now ascertained that the place where they now were, was the +famous Bocqua market place, of which they had heard so much talk, and +that the opposite bank of the river belonged to the Funda country. +Their interpreter was an old Funda mallam, who understood the Houssa +language perfectly, and was come to Bocqua to attend the market, +which was held every nine days. The old mallam was asked the distance +from Bocqua to the sea, and he told them about ten days journey. The +Landers then pointed out the hills on the opposite side of the river, +and asked him, where they led to. "The sea," was his answer. "And +where do they lead to?" they inquired, pointing to those on the same +bank of the river as themselves. He answered, "They run along way in +the country we do not know." Their next concern was about the safety +of the river navigation, and they anxiously inquired his opinion of +it lower down, and whether there were any rocks or dangerous places. +As to the river navigation, he satisfied them by saying, that he knew +of no dangers, nor had he ever heard of any, but the people on the +banks, he said, were very bad. They asked him, if he thought the +chief would send a messenger with them, if they were to request him, +even one day's journey from this place. Without the least hesitation, +he answered: "No; the people of this country can go no further down +the river; if they do, and are caught, they will lose their heads." +Every town that he knew of on the banks of the river, was at war with +its neighbour, and all the rest likewise. They then asked him how far +Bornou was from Funda. To which, he replied, "Fifteen days journey." +Here their conversation was interrupted by the old chief, who wished +to return to the village, and the mallam was obliged to accompany +him. They likewise learnt from other persons, that directly opposite, +on the eastern bank, was the common path to the city of Funda, which, +as they had been told at Fof, was situated three days journey up the +Tshadda from the Niger; that the large river which they had observed +on their course, was the celebrated Shar, Shary, or Sharry of +travellers, or which is more proper than either, the Tshadda, as it +is universally called throughout the country. They were also informed +that the smaller stream which they passed on the 19th, flowing from +the same direction, was the _Coodania_. + +On Wednesday the 27th October, they made preparations for starting, +and after experiencing rather hostile treatment from the natives, +they arrived at a village called Abbazacca, where they saw an English +iron bar, and feasted their eyes on the graceful cocoa-nut tree, +which they had not seen so long. + +It was the intention of the chief of Abbazacca to send a man with +them as messenger, to a large town, of which he said that his brother +was governor, but on maturer reflection, he determined to accompany +them himself, expecting to obtain an adequate reward. In consequence +of the lightness of his canoe, and its superiority to the old one, +which they had got at Zagozhi, the chief passed them with the utmost +facility, and touched at various towns and villages, to inform their +inhabitants of the fact of the Christians journeying down the river, +and that they had come from a country he had never heard of. + +In the course of the day they came abreast of a village of pretty +considerable extent, intending to pass it by on the other side; they +had, however, no sooner made their appearance, than they were lustily +hailed by a little squinting fellow, who kept crying out as loud as +is lungs would permit him: "Holloa! you Englishmen, you come here!" +They felt no inclination to obey the summons, being rather anxious to +get to the town mentioned to them by the chief of Abbazacca; and as +the current swept them along past the village, they took no notice of +the little man, and they had already sailed beyond the landing place, +when they were overtaken by about a dozen canoes, and the people in +them desiring them to turn back, for that they had forgotten to pay +their respects to the king. The name of the village was Damaggoo. +Being in no condition to force themselves from the men, who had +interrupted them with so little ceremony, they pulled with all their +strength against the current, and after an hour's exertion landed +amidst the cheers and huzzas of a multitude of people. The first +person they observed at the landing place, was their little friend in +the red jacket, whom they found out afterwards was a messenger from +the chief of Bonny. + +Whilst a hut was preparing for them, they were conducted over a bog +to a large fetish tree, at the root of which they were made to sit +down, till the arrival of the chief, who made his appearance in a few +minutes, bringing with him a goat and other provisions as a present. +He put a great many questions respecting themselves and their +country, the places they had come from, their distance up the river, +and also concerning the river itself, and was astonished at their +answers. + +They were now conducted through filthy streets of mud to a very +diminutive hut, which they found excessively warm, owing to the small +quantity of light and air, which were admitted into it only through a +narrow aperture, opening into a gloomy and dismal passage. The +appearance of the inside was better than that of the outside, being +rudely plastered with clay, and surrounded with indifferently carved +fetish figures, either painted or chalked a red colour. + +As signs of European intercourse, with which the Landers, as it might +be reasonably supposed, were highly delighted, they received from the +chief as a present some fofo, a quantity of stewed goat, sufficient +for thirty persons, and _a small case bottle of rum_, a luxury which +they had not enjoyed since they left Kiama; the latter was a treat +that they did not expect, although it was of the most inferior kind. + +Early on the morning of the 28th, the chief paid them a visit, +accompanied by a Nouffie mallam; he gave them a pressing invitation +to come and see him, which was readily accepted, and on proceeding +to the residence, they passed through a variety of low huts, which +led to the one in which he was sitting. He accosted them with +cheerfulness, and placed mats for them to sit upon, and rum was +produced to make them comfortable withal. He wished to know in what +way they had got through the country, for he had learnt that they had +come a long journey; and after having related to them some of their +adventures, he appeared quite astonished, and promised as far as he +was able to imitate those good men in the treatment of his guests. +When Antonio, their interpreter, explained to them that they were +ambassadors from the great king of white men, he seemed highly +delighted, and said, "Something must be done for you to-morrow;" and +left them to conjecture for a short time what that something would +be, but they soon learnt that he intended to make rejoicings with all +his people, that they would fire off their muskets, and pass a night +in dancing and revelry. He requested them to wait eight days longer, +when he expected his people back from the Bocqua market. "I think," +he added, "that the chief of Bocqua's messenger and our people will +be a sufficient protection." The Landers readily assented to his +proposal, and told him that as all their presents were expended, they +would send him some from the sea coast, if he would allow a person to +accompany them thither, on whom he could depend to bring them back to +him. He expressed himself much gratified with this offer, and said +that his own son should accompany them, and that although his people +had never been lower down the river than to a place called Kirree, +about a day's journey from hence, he had no doubt that they should +reach the sea in safety. He then promised with solemnity, that he +would consent to their departure in the time that he had specified, +and having shaken hands, they parted. + +The Landers, however, found that the old chief was not so punctual to +his word as they had a right to expect, for he was every day +consulting his fetish and his mallams, and they were all unanimous in +their opinion, that the departure of the white men should be delayed +for a short time. This to them was a most vexatious proceeding. Their +determination of departing was not, however, to be shaken, although +the entrails of some fowls which the chief consulted, declared that +the time of their departure was very inauspicious. According to the +chief's own arrangement, the people of the Landers were to embark in +the leaky canoe, with the heaviest of the luggage, and themselves +were to travel in one of the chief's canoes, and to take along with +them whatever was of most consequence. To this regulation they could +not raise any plausible objection, because their old canoe had been +partially repaired. + +A little after four in the afternoon of the 4th November, their +luggage was conveyed to the river side, and they proceeded to load +the canoes. Long before five, every thing on their parts had been got +in readiness for quitting the town, and they sat in the canoe till +after sunset, waiting the arrival of the boatmen, who did not seem at +all disposed to hurry themselves in making their appearance. They +began at length to be wearied with anxiety, and impatient to be +stirring. Hundreds of people had been gazing on them for a long +while, many of whom had taken the pains to come, from different parts +of the town in boats for that purpose and the curiosity of all having +been amply indulged, they were moving off in all directions, so that +the Landers were almost deserted. + +At length when their uneasiness was at its height, they saw the chief +advancing towards them with a train of followers. The mallam and all +his principal people were with him, bringing numerous jars of palm +wine. A mat was spread near the water-side, whereon the chief sat +himself, and the Landers were instantly desired to place themselves +one on each side of his person. The palm wine, and some rum were then +produced, and as they were about to take a long farewell of their +hospitable host, they drank of his offering, rather than give offence +by a refusal. They drank and chatted away until half-past six in the +evening, when they sent Pascoe on before them in their own old canoe, +telling him that they should overtake him. It was, however, nearly +dark before they were allowed to depart, and as they lay at a short +distance from the bank, all the fetish people walked knee deep into +the river, and muttered a long prayer, after which they splashed the +water towards their canoe with each foot, and then they proceeded +on their voyage. + +On the following day, they observed a large market close to the banks +of the river, which they were informed was Kirree. A great number of +canoes were lying near the bank, and in a short time afterwards, they +saw about fifty canoes before them coming up the river. As they +approached each other, the Landers observed the British union flag in +several, while others, which were white, had figures on them of a +man's leg, chain, tables, and all kinds of such devices. The people +in them, who were very numerous, were dressed in European clothing, +with the exception of trousers. + +The Landers felt quite overjoyed by the sight of these people, more +particularly when they saw the English flag and European apparel +amongst them, and they congratulated themselves that they were from +the sea coast. But all their fond anticipations vanished in a moment +as the first canoe met them. A great stout fellow, of a most +forbidding countenance beckoned Richard Lander to come to him, but +seeing him and all his people so well armed, Lander was not much +inclined to trust himself amongst them, and therefore paid no +attention to the call. The next moment, he heard the sound of a drum, +and in an instant several of the men mounted a platform and levelled +their muskets at them. There was nothing to be done now but to obey; +as for running away it was out of the question, their square loaded +canoe was incapable of it, and to fight with fifty war canoes, for +such they really were, containing each above forty people, most of +whom were as well armed as themselves, would have been throwing away +their own and their canoe men's lives very foolishly. + +By this time the canoes were side by side, and with astonishing +rapidity the luggage of the Landers found its way into those of their +opponents. This mode of proceeding was not relished by them at all, +and Richard Lander's gun being loaded with two balls and four slugs, +he took deliberate aim at the leader, and he would have paid for his +temerity with his life in one moment more, had not three of his +people sprung on Lander, and forced the gun from his hands. His +jacket and shoes were now plundered from him, and observing some +other fellows at the same time taking away Pascoe's wife, Lander lost +all command over himself, and was determined to sell his life as +dearly as he could. He encouraged his men to arm themselves with +their paddles, and defend themselves to the last. He instantly seized +hold of Pascoe's wife, and with the assistance of another of his men +dragged her from the fellow's grasp. Pascoe at the same time levelled +a blow at his head with one of their iron-wood paddles, that sent him +reeling backwards, and they saw him no more. + +Their canoe having been so completely relieved of their cargo, which +had consisted only of their luggage, they had plenty of room on her +for battle, and being each of them provided with a paddle, they +determined, as they had got clear of their adversary, to cut down the +first fellow who should dare to board them. This, however, was not +attempted, and as none of the other canoes had attempted to +interfere, Lander was in hopes of finding some friends amongst them, +but at all events, he was determined to follow the people who had +plundered them, to the market, whither they seemed to be going. They +accordingly pulled after them as fast as they could, and they were +following the canoe that had attacked them, with the utmost +expedition, when they were hailed by some people from a large canoe, +which was afterwards found to belong to the New Calabar River. One of +the people, who was apparently a person of consequence, called out +lustily, "Holloa, white men, you French, you English?" "Yes, +English," Lander answered immediately. "Come here in my canoe," he +said, and their two canoes approached each other rapidly. Lander got +into the canoe, and put three of his men into his own, to assist in +pulling her to the market. The people of the canoe treated him with +much kindness, and the chief gave him a glass of rum. + +On looking round him, Lander now observed his brother coming towards +him, in the Damaggoo canoe, and the same villain, who had plundered +his canoe was also the first to pursue that of his brother. The canoe +in which Richard was, as well as the war canoes, hastened to a small +sand island in the river, at a short distance from the market, and +John Lander arrived soon afterwards. In a short time the Damaggoo +people made their appearance, and also the chief of Bonny's +messenger, having, like themselves, lost every thing they had of +their own property, as well as of their masters. + +The canoes belonging to the Landers had been lying at the island, but +now the canoes were all formed into a line and paddled into the +market-place before alluded to, called Kirree, and here they were +informed that a palaver would be held to take the whole affair into +consideration; and accordingly, a multitude of men landed from the +canoes, to hold, as it may be termed, a council of war. The Landers +were not suffered to go on shore, but constrained to remain in the +canoes, without a covering for the head, and exposed to the heat of a +burning sun. A person in a muhommedan dress, who they learnt +afterwards was a native of a place near Funda, came to them and +endeavoured to cheer them, by saying that their hearts must not be +sore, that at the palaver which would be held, they had plenty of +friends to speak for them. In the mean time about twenty canoes full +of Damaggoo people had arrived from the various towns near that +place. These persons having heard how the Landers had been treated, +also became their friends, so that they now began to think there was +a chance of their escaping, and this intelligence put them into +better spirits. + +A stir was now made in the market, and a search commenced through all +the canoes for their goods, some of which were found, although the +greater part of them were at the bottom of the river. Those were +landed and placed in the middle of the market-place. The Landers were +now invited by the mallams to land, and told to look at their goods, +and see if they were all there. To the great satisfaction of Richard +Lander, he immediately recognized the box containing their books, and +one of his brother's journals. The medicine chest was by its side, +but both were filled with water. A large carpet bag containing all +their wearing apparel was lying cut open, and deprived of its +contents, with the exception of a shirt, a pair of trousers, and a +waistcoat. Many valuable articles which it contained were gone. The +whole of Richard Lander's journal, with the exception of a note book, +with remarks from Rabba to Kirree, was lost. Four guns, one of which +had been the property of the late Mr. Park, four cutlasses, and two +pistols were gone. All their buttons, kowries, and needles, which +were necessary for them to purchase provisions with, all were +missing, and said to have been sunk in the river. + +They were now desired to seat themselves, which as soon as they had +done, a circle gathered round them and began questioning them, but at +that moment the sound of screams and the clashing of arms reached the +spot, and the multitude catching fire at the noise, drew their +swords, and leaving the Landers to themselves, they ran away to the +place whence it proceeded. The origin of all this, was a desire for +more plunder on the part of the Eboe people. Seeing the few things of +the white men in the marketplace, they made a rush to the place to +recover them. The natives, who were Kirree people, stood ready for +them, armed with swords, daggers, and guns; and the savage Eboes +finding themselves foiled in the attempt, retreated to their canoes, +without risking an attack, although the Landers fully expected to +have been spectators of a furious and bloody battle. + +This after all, was a fortunate circumstance, inasmuch as the two +brothers, having unconsciously jumped into the same canoe found +themselves in each other's company, and were thus afforded, for a +short time at least, the pleasure of conversing without interruption. + +The palaver not having yet concluded, they had full leisure to +contemplate the scene around them. They had moored a little way from +the banks of the river; in front of them was the marketplace, which +was crammed with market people, from all parts of the neighbouring +country of different tribes: a great multitude of wild men, of +ferocious aspect and savage uncouth manners. To these belonged the +choice either of giving them life and liberty, or dooming them to +slavery or death. In the latter determination, their minds might be +swayed by suspicion or caprice, or influenced by hatred. In the +former, they might be guided by the hopes of gain, or biassed by the +fear of punishment; for many of them had come from the sea-coast; and +such an adventure as theirs could not long remain concealed from the +knowledge of their countrymen. There happened to be amongst the +savages, a few well-dressed mahommedan priests, who had come late to +the market from the northward. These were decidedly the friends of +the Landers. Many times they blessed them with uplifted hands and +compassionate countenances, exclaiming, "Allah sullikee," _God is +king_. Nor did they confine themselves to simple expressions of pity +or concern; but as they subsequently learnt, they joined the assembly +and spoke in their favour with warmth and energy, taxing those who +had assaulted them, with cowardice, cruelty, and wrong: and proposing +to have them beheaded on the spot, as a just punishment for their +crime. This was bold language, but it produced a salutary effect on +the minds of the hearers. + +In the afternoon, the Landers were ordered to return to the small +island whence they had come, and the setting of the sun being the +signal for the council to dissolve, they were again sent for to the +market. The people had been engaged in deliberation and discussion +during the whole of the day; and with throbbing hearts they received +their resolution, in nearly the following words:-- + +"That the king of the country being absent, they had taken upon +themselves to consider the occurrence, which had taken place in the +morning, and to give judgment accordingly. Those of their things +which had been saved from the water, should be restored to them; and +the person, who first commenced the attack on the white men, should +lose his head, as a just retribution for his offence, having acted +without the chief's permission: that with regard to themselves, they +must be considered as prisoners, and consent to be conducted on the +following morning to Obie, king of the Eboe country, before whom they +were to undergo an examination, and whose will and pleasure +concerning their persons would then be explained." + +They received this intelligence with feelings of rapture, and with +bursting hearts they offered up thanks to their divine Creator, for +his signal preservation of them throughout this disastrous day. + +The Kirree people are a savage-looking race; they are amazingly +strong and athletic, and are also well proportioned. Their only +clothing is the skin either of a leopard or tiger fastened round +their waist. Their hair is plaited, and plastered with red clay in +abundance; and their face is full of incisions in every part of it; +these are cut into the flesh, so as to produce deep furrows, each +incision being about a quarter of an inch long and dyed with indigo. +It was scarcely possible to make out a feature of their face, and +never were individuals more disfigured. The Eboe women have handsome +features; and the Landers could not help thinking it a pity, that +such savage-looking fellows as the men should be blessed with so +handsome a race of females. + + + +CHAPTER XXXIX. + +At sunrise on the 6th November, their canoe was taken from before +Kirree market-place, to the little sand bank or island in the middle +of the river, where they waited till nine o'clock for the coming of +two war canoes, which it was resolved should convoy them to the Eboe +country, which they understood was situated three days journey down +the Niger. At seven in the morning they bade adieu to Kirree, the +scene of all their sorrows, accompanied by six large war canoes, and +again took their station with the Damaggoo people. Independently of +their convoy, they had a sumpter canoe in company, belonging to the +Eboe people, from which the others were supplied with dressed +provisions. For their part, they had neither money nor needles, nor +indeed any thing to purchase a meal; and knowing this to be the case, +their sable guardians neglected to take into consideration the state +of their stomachs. However, they felt no very strong inclination to +join them in their repast, though on one occasion they were invited +to do so; for they felt an invincible disgust to it, from the filthy +manner in which it had been prepared. Yams were first boiled, and +then skinned, and mashed into a paste, with the addition of a little +water, by hands that were far from being clean. As this part of the +business requires great personal exertion, the man on whom it +devolved perspired very copiously, and the consequences may easily be +guessed at. In eating they use their fingers only, and every one dips +his hand into the same dish. + +It was ten at night, when they came abreast of a small town, where +they stopped. It was long since they had tasted food, and they had +suffered from hunger the whole day, without being able to obtain any +thing. Soon after they had stopped for the night, their guards gave +each of them a piece of roasted yam, and their poor famished people +had also the good fortune to get some too, being the first they had +had since leaving Damaggoo. The roasted yam, washed down with a +little water, was to them as joyful a meal, as if they had been +treated with the most sumptuous fare, and they laid themselves down +in the canoe to sleep in content. + +Long before sunrise on the 8th November, though it was excessively +dark, the canoes were put in motion; for as the Eboe country was said +to be at no great distance, the Eboe people who were with them, were +desirous of arriving there as early in the day as possible. It proved +to be a dull hazy morning, but at 7 o'clock the fog had become so +dense, that no object, however large, could be distinguished at a +greater distance than a few yards. This created considerable +confusion, and the men fearing, as they expressed it, to lose +themselves, tied one canoe to another, thus forming double canoes, +and all proceeded together in close company. The Landers wished to be +more particular in their observations of this interesting part of +their journey, but were constrained to forego that gratification, on +account of the superstitious prejudices of the natives, who were so +infatuated as to imagine, that the Landers had not only occasioned +the fog, but that if they did not sit or lie down in the canoe, for +they had been standing, it would inevitably cause the destruction of +the whole party, and the reason they assigned, was, that the river +had never beheld a white man before; and, therefore, they dreaded the +consequences of their rashness and presumption in regarding its +waters so attentively. This and similar nonsense was delivered with +such determination and earnestness, that they reluctantly laid down, +and allowed themselves to be covered with mats, in order to quiet +their apprehensions; for they did not forget that they were +prisoners, and that a perseverance in standing up, would have exposed +them to the mortification of being put down by force. + +On the dispersion of the fog, the Landers were again permitted +to look at the river, and shortly afterwards one of the Eboe men in +their canoe, exclaimed, "There is my country;" pointing to a clump of +very high trees, which was yet at some distance before them, and +after passing a low fertile island, they quickly came to it. Here +they observed a few fishing canoes, but their owners appeared +suspicious and fearful, and would not come near them, though their +national flag, which was a British union, sewed on a large piece of +plain white cotton, with scollops of blue, was streaming from a long +staff on the bow. The town, they were told, was yet a good way down +the river. In a short time, however, they came to an extensive +morass, intersected by little channels in every direction, and by one +of these, they got into clear water, and in front of the Eboe town. +Here they found hundreds of canoes, some of them even larger than any +they had previously met with. When they had come alongside the +canoes, two or three huge brawny fellows, in broken English, asked +how they did, in a tone which Stentor might have envied; and the +shaking of hands with their powerful friends was really a punishment, +on account of the violent squeezes which they were compelled to +suffer. The chief of these men called himself _Gun_, though +_blunderbuss_ or _thunder_ would have been as appropriate a name; and +without solicitation, he informed them, that though he was not a +great man, yet he was a little military king; that his brother's name +was King _Boy_, and his father's King _Forday_, who, with King +_Jacket_, governed all the Brass country. But what was infinitely +more interesting to them, than this ridiculous list of kings, was the +information he gave them, that besides a Spanish schooner, an English +vessel, called the Thomas of Liverpool, was also lying in the first +Brass river, which _Mr. Gun_ said was frequented by Liverpool traders +for palm oil. Full of joy at this intelligence, they passed on to a +little artificial creek, where they were desired to wait till the +king's pleasure respecting them should be known. They were afterwards +drawn in a canoe over ooze and mud to a house, where, if the +countenance of their host had been at all in unison with the +agreeableness of his dwelling, they imagined that they could live at +ease in it, for a few days at least. The harshness, however, of this +man's manners, corresponded with his sulky, ill-natured face, and +deprived them of a good deal of pleasure, which they would have +enjoyed, in reposing at full length on dry, soft mats, after having +been cramped up for three days in a small canoe, with slaves and +goats, and exposed to the dews by night and the sun by day. + +An hour or two of rest invigorated and refreshed them extremely, and +they then received a message from the king, that he was waiting to +see and converse with them. Having little to adjust in regard to +their dress, they rose up, and followed the messenger. Passing near +the outskirts of the town, the messenger conducted them, by paths +little frequented, to the outward yard of the palace, before the door +of which was placed the statue of a woman in a sitting posture, and +made of clay, of course, very rude and very ugly. Having crossed the +yard, in which they saw nothing remarkable, they entered by a wooden +door into another, which was far superior. From this enclosure they +were led into a third, which, like the former, had its porticoes. +Opposite the entrance was a low clay platform, about three feet from +the ground, which was overlaid with mats of various colours, a large +piece of coarse red cloth covering the whole, and at each of its +corners they observed a little squat figure, also of clay, but +whether they were intended to be males or females, it was impossible +to conjecture. Here they were desired to place themselves among a +crowd of half-dressed, armed men, who were huddled together on the +left of the platform, some sitting, and others standing, and awaiting +the coming of the prince. Their friend, Gun, was with them, and he +immediately claimed priority of acquaintance with them. He chatted +with amazing volubility, and in less than two minutes, he was on the +most familiar footing, slapping them with no small force just above +the knee, to give weight to his observations, and to rivet their +attentions to his remarks. Then, while they spoke, he would rest his +heavy arms on their shoulders, and laugh aloud at every word they +said, look very knowingly, and occasionally apply the palm of his +hand to their backs with the most _feeling_ energy, as a token of +encouragement and approbation. They wished him to answer questions +which concerned them nearly, but the only satisfaction they received, +was contained in the expression "O yes, to be sure," and this was +repeated so often, with an emphasis so peculiar, and with a grin so +irresistibly ludicrous, that in spite of their disappointment, they +were vastly entertained with him. + +In this manner was the time beguiled, till they heard a door suddenly +opened on their right, and the dreaded Obie, king of the Eboe +country, stood before them. There was, however, nothing dreadful in +his appearance, for he was a sprightly young man, with a mild open +countenance, and an eye which indicated quickness, intelligence, and +good nature, rather than the ferocity which they were told he +possessed in an eminent degree. He received them with a smile of +welcome, and shook hands with infinite cordiality, often +complimenting them with the word, "Yes," to which his knowledge of +the English was confined, and which no doubt he had been tutored to +pronounce for the occasion. + +Their story was related to the king in full by the Bonny messenger, +who had accompanied them from Damaggoo, whose speech, which nearly as +they could guess lasted two whole hours, was delivered in an +admirable manner, and produced a visible effect on all present. As +soon as it was over, they were invited by Obie to take some +refreshment; being in truth extremely hungry at the time, they +thankfully accepted the offer, and fish and yams, swimming in oil, +were forthwith brought them on English plates, the king retiring in +the meanwhile from motives of delicacy. When Obie returned, a general +conversation ensued, and he was engaged in talking promiscuously to +those around him till evening, when the "great palaver," as it was +called, was formally prorogued until the morrow, and presently after +the chief bade them good night, and retired. + +On the following morning, they were visited by a number of the +inhabitants, who broke through every restraint to gratify their +desire of seeing them. This was what they naturally expected, yet +after all, they were much better behaved and less impatient, than +they had any reason to apprehend, and they departed with little +importunity, considering that they had not been in the habit of +bending to the will of prisoners and slaves, for such were the +Landers in reality. + +About noon they were informed that their attendance was required at +the king's house, Obie being fully prepared, it was said, to resume +the hearing of their case, and examine the deposition of the Bonny +messenger and the Damaggoo people. On entering the principal yard or +court, in which they were introduced to the king on the preceding +day, a common English chair, covered with inferior red cloth, was +placed for the use of the king. He soon afterwards entered, his fat, +round cheeks were swelling with good humour, real or assumed, as he +shook hands with a sprightly air, when he instantly seated himself to +receive the prostrations and addresses of his subjects and others. + +The business of the day was entered into with spirit, and a violent +altercation arose between the Brass and Bonny people, and although +not much was communicated to the Landers, of the conversation that +passed between them, yet a sufficiency was imparted to them to let +them know, that they would never leave the country without a high +ransom. + +Bonny was the real place of their destination, and they had with them +a messenger from the present and a son to the late ruler of that +state, (King Pepper,) whilst on the other hand, they knew nothing of +Brass, never having heard the name of such a river in their lives +before. The Brass people affirm that the Bonny Creek, which is a +small branch of the Niger, was dried up, and that the main river, +which runs to Brass, belongs to King Jacket, who permitted no +foreigners whatever to pass up and down the Niger, without exacting +the accustomed fees or duties. The Brass people, therefore, would +have a very plausible reason for taking them entirely out of the +hands of Obie and the Damaggoo people. + +In the evening, Antonio and five other Bonny people came to their hut +with tears in their eyes. On asking them, what was the matter, "The +chief," they said, "is determined to sell you to the Brass people, +but we will fight for you, and die rather than see you sold." "How +many of you Bonny people are there?" Richard Lander asked. "Only +six," was the reply. "And can you fight with two hundred Brass +people?" Lander asked. "We can kill some of them," they answered, +"and your people can assist." Lander then asked Antonio the reason +why he did not interpret what was going forward to-day at the king's +house. He said, that he was afraid it would have made their hearts +sore--that it was "a bad palaver." "We have all been to the chief," +he added, "crying to him, and telling him that black man cannot sell +white man, but he will not listen to us, he said, he would sell you +to the Brass people." + +The Landers felt much hurt at their situation, for they did not +expect that it would be so bad as it turned out to be, but they made +up their minds to prepare themselves for the worst, for it was +impossible to foresee the lengths to which the savages would go. On +the following day, Richard Lander was taken very ill with the fever, +and was consequently unable to attend the summons to the king's +house, he therefore sent his brother in his stead, who gave the +following account:-- + +"On my arriving there this morning, to my infinite surprise I found +King Boy (Gun's eldest brother,) with a number of his attendants +already assembled. He was dressed in a style far superior to any of +his countrymen, and wore a jacket and waistcoat over a neat shirt of +striped cotton, to which was annexed a silk pocket handkerchief, +which extended below the knees. Trousers are not permitted to be +worn, either by natives or strangers, of the same hue as themselves, +the kings alone being an exception to the rule. Strings of coral and +other beads encircled his neck, and a pretty little crucifix of seed +beads hung on his bosom. This latter ornament, which has probably +been given him by a slave captain, had by no means an unbecoming +appearance. King Boy introduced himself to me with the air of a +person who bestows a favour, rather than soliciting acquaintance, and +indeed his vanity in other respects was highly amusing. He would not +suffer any one to sit between him and the platform, but squatted +himself down nearest the king's seat, which, as a mark of honour, had +been previously assigned to us; and with a volubility scarcely +imaginable, he commenced a long narrative of his greatness, power, +and dignity, in which he excelled all his neighbours, and to this I +was constrained to listen with assumed composure and attention for a +considerable time. To convince me of his veracity, he produced a +pocket book, containing a great number of recommendatory notes, or +'characters,' as a domestic would call them, written in the English, +French, Spanish, and Portuguese languages, and which had been given +him by the various European traders, who had visited the Brass River. +This practice of giving written characters, which has for some time +been adopted by Europeans, is both praiseworthy and useful, and it +has become almost universal on the western coast; because it is not +to be supposed that the natives themselves can understand these +documents, and strangers are made acquainted with their good or bad +qualities by them, and taught to discriminate the honest from the +unfaithful and malicious. Boy's letters mentioned certain dealings, +which their authors had had with him, and they likewise bore +testimony to his own character, and the manners of his countrymen. +Amongst others is one from a 'James Dow, master of the brig Susan, +from Liverpool,' and dated: '_Brass First River_, Sept. 1830,' which +runs as follows: "Captain Dow states, that he never met with a set of +greater scoundrels than the natives in general, and the pilots in +particular." These he anathematised as d----d rascals, who had +endeavoured to steer his vessel among the breakers at the mouth of +the river, that they might share the plunder of its wreck. King +Jacket, who claims the sovereignty of the river, is declared to be a +more confirmed knave, if possible, than they, and to have cheated him +of a good deal of property. The writer describes King Forday as a man +rather advanced in years, less fraudulent but more dilatory. King +Boy, his son, alone deserved his confidence, for he had not abused +it, and possessed more honour and integrity than either of his +countrymen. + +"These are the rulers of the Brass River, and pretty fellows they +are, truly. Mr. Dow further observes, that the river is extremely +unhealthy, and that his first and second mates, three coopers, and +five seamen, had already died of fever, and that he himself had had +several narrow escapes from the same disorder. He concludes, by +cautioning traders against the treachery of the natives generally, +and gives them certain directions concerning 'the dreadful bar,' at +the mouth of the river, on which he had nearly perished. + +"This business had been no sooner settled, than Obie entered the +yard, attended as usual, but clad indifferently in loose silks. After +the customary salutations, Boy directed the monarch to appeal to me, +that he might be satisfied in what estimation he was held by white +men. Of course I said a variety of fine things in his favour, which +were received with a very good grace indeed; but that a piece of +paper simply, which could neither speak, hear, nor understand, should +impart such information, was a source of astonishment and wonder to +Obie and his train, who testified their emotion in no other manner +than by looks of silly amazement, and repeated bursts of laughter. + +"The king then said with a serious countenance, that there was no +necessity for further discussion respecting the white men, his mind +was already made up on the subject, and for the first time, he +briefly explained himself to this effect: That circumstances having +thrown us in the way of his subjects, by the laws and usages of the +country, he was not only entitled to our own persons, but had an +equal right to those of our attendants; that he should take no +further advantage of his good fortune, than by exchanging us for as +much English goods as would amount in value to twenty slaves. In +order to have this matter fairly arranged and settled, he should, of +his own accord, prevent our leaving the town, till such time as our +countrymen at Bonny or Brass should pay for our ransom, having +understood from ourselves that the English at either of those rivers, +would afford us whatever assistance we might require, with +cheerfulness and alacrity. Concerning the goods of which we had been +robbed at Kirree, he assured us he would use his utmost exertions to +get them restored. He lamented that circumstance more than any one, +but he denied that a single subject of his had any thing to do with +it, and attributed the whole of that unfortunate affair, to the +rashness and brutality of a certain people, that inhabited a country +nearly opposite to his own, whose monarch was his particular friend, +therefore, he apprehended little difficulty in seeing justice done +us; 'but then,' said he, 'it is necessary that you should wait here +for an indefinite time, till a council of that nation be held, when +the plunderers will be examined, and your claims established. The +Damaggoo people, that have come with you, have like yourselves +suffered much loss; for my own part, I shall make them a present of a +slave or two as a compensation, and they have my permission to go +along with you for the present, which I understand you have promised +their monarch, but you must not expect them to be your guides to the +sea, for their responsibility ends here.' + +"When all this was interpreted to me by Antonio, I was thunderstruck. +It was in vain that I assured Obie that there was not the slightest +necessity for our detention in the town; that our countrymen would +redeem us the moment they should see us, but not before; and equally +unavailing were my solicitations for him to alter this arrangement +and suffer us to depart; but the tears of his subjects, and the +representations of the men at Brass, had made too deep an impression +upon his mind to be so easily eradicated. We found it too late either +to implore or remonstrate. + +"This final decision of the king is a bitter stroke to us, for we +fondly indulged the hope of a more favourable issue, from the +deliberations of the savage council, at whose dissolution we expected +to be sent to the sea coast, without being perplexed with further +embarrassments. We have now to wait the return of a messenger from +thence, who has not yet been sent on his errand, and he is to bring +back with him the value of twenty slaves, ere we obtain our freedom. +Heaven only knows whether the masters of English vessels at Bonny or +Brass, have the ability or feel the disposition to ransom us. We only +know that if disposed of at all, we shall be sold for infinitely more +than we are worth. + +"As may naturally be supposed, I returned home much depressed and +afflicted, to inform my brother of the result of the palaver, and he +was as greatly surprised and afflicted as myself at the intelligence. +But though we are full of trouble and uneasiness at our gloomy +situation, yet we do not repine at the divine dispensations of that +Almighty providence, which has comforted us in the hours of +adversity, and relieved us in times of pain and danger, and snatched +us from the jaws of death." + +On the following morning, Richard Lander was rather convalescent, and +in truth they both wondered much that their health, generally +speaking, had been so good, when they reflected for a moment on the +hardships and privations, which they had lately undergone, the +perplexities in which they had been entangled, and the difficulties +with which they had had to contend. + +During the few days that they had spent in this place, they had been +sadly in want of provisions, and their people, who for the first day +bore their privation in silence, have since then been loud in their +complaints. The constant fear which they entertained of being taken +away and sold, now, however, changed that lively feeling of +discontent into sullen-ness and despondency. What made the matter +still worse was the fact, that having lost their needles and kowries +at Kirree, they had not the means of purchasing any thing, although +the kowrie shell was not current where they then were. Obie was in +the habit of sending them a fowl, or a yam or two every morning, but +as they were ten in number, it made but a slender meal, and it was +barely sufficient to keep them from actual starvation. To stop, if +possible, the sullen murmurings of their people, they were now +reduced to the painful necessity of begging, but they might as well +have addressed their petitions to the stones and trees, and thereby +have spared themselves the mortification of a refusal. They never +experienced a more stinging sense of their own humbleness and +imbecility than on such occasions, and never had they greater need +of patience and lowliness of spirit. In most African towns and +villages, they had been regarded as demi-gods, and treated in +consequence with universal kindness, civility, and veneration; but +here, alas! what a contrast, they were classed with the most degraded +and despicable of mankind, and were become slaves in a land of +ignorance and barbarism, whose savage natives treated them with +brutality and contempt. It would be hard to guess whence these +unkindly feelings originated, but they felt that they had not +deserved them, yet the consciousness of their own insignificance +sadly militated against every idea of self-love or self-importance, +and taught them a plain and useful moral lesson. Although they made +the most charitable allowances for the Eboe people, they were, +notwithstanding, obliged to consider them the most inhospitable +tribe, as well as the most covetous and uncivil, that they were +acquainted with. Their monarch, and a respectable married female, who +had passed the meridian of her days, were the only individuals, +amongst several thousands, that showed them anything like civility or +kindness, and the latter alone acted, as they were convinced, solely +from disinterested motives. + +All ranks of people here are passionately fond of palm wine, and +drank of it to excess, whenever they had an opportunity, which often +occurred, as great quantities of it are produced in the town and its +neighbourhood. It was a very general and favourite custom with them, +as soon as the sun had set, to hold large meetings and form parties +in the open air, or under the branches of trees, to talk over the +events of the day, and make merry with this exciting beverage. These +assemblies are kept up until after midnight, and as the revellers +generally contrive to get inebriated very soon after they sit down to +drink, the greater part of the evening is devoted to wrangling and +fighting, instead of convivial intercourse, and occasionally the most +fearful noises that it is possible for the mind to conceive. +Bloodshed, and even murder, it is said, not unfrequently terminate +these boisterous and savage entertainments. A meeting of this +description was held outside the yard of their residence every +evening, and the noise which they made was really terrifying, more +especially when the women and young people joined in the affray, for +a quarrel of some sort was sure to ensue. Their cries, groans, and +shrieks of agony were dreadful, and would lead a stranger to suppose, +that these dismal and piercing sounds proceeded from individuals +about to be butchered, or that they were extorted by the last pangs +of anguish and suffering. The Landers trembled with alarm for the +first night or two, imagining from these loud and doleful cries, that +a work of bloodshed and slaughter was in progress. They found it +useless to endeavour to sleep till the impression of the first wild +cry that was uttered, and the last faint scream had worn away. But by +degrees they became in some measure more reconciled to them, from the +frequency of their occurrence, or rather they felt less apprehension +than formerly, as to their origin; understanding with surprise that +they were only the effects of a simple quarrel, and excite from the +inhabitants no more than a casual remark, although it is said that in +fits of ungovernable passion, the most heinous crimes are consummated +in these frantic revels. + +Their matronly female acquaintance, though excessively fat, was of +diminutive stature, and by her cheerful pleasantry she beguiled in +some degree the wearisomeness of the long evening hours, and banished +that _ennui_, which the disagreeableness of their situation had +partially induced, simply by her endeavours to do so. For not content +with paying them formal visits in the day time, she came into their +yard every night, instead of joining the orgies of her acquaintance, +accompanied by two or three friends of congenial natures, with the +very benevolent intention of pitying their misfortunes, and +dissipating their melancholy. Two or three slaves followed their +mistress into the yard, carrying a few bottles of their favourite +palm wine, and perhaps with a plate of bananas also, that the evening +might be passed more agreeably. + +Their sleeping quarters were in a recess, which was elevated three or +four feet from the ground, and supported by wooden columns. It was +without a door, or indeed anything answering the same purpose, so +that they enjoyed the refreshing coolness of the evening air, with +the disadvantage of being gazed at by whoever had the curiosity to +enter their premises. They generally laid down shortly after sunset, +and presently their fat, jolly little friend, duck-like, comes +waddling into their yard, with her companions and slaves, to offer +them the evening salutations, and enter into the usual familiar +discourse. This was commonly preceded by a large potation of palm +wine, which was always relished with a loud and peculiar smack, +expressive of the pleasure and satisfaction afforded by so copious a +draught, and betokening also much internal warmth and comfort. The +officious slaves having spread mats for the purpose, directly in +front of their recess, their lady visitor and her associates, +together with their ill-natured host, who had by this time joined the +party, squatted themselves down in a circle, and under the +inspiration of the fermented juice, maintained a pretty animated +conversation, till the wine was all expended and sleep weighed their +eyelids down. For themselves they had little of any thing to say, +because the Landers were pretty nearly as ignorant of their language, +as they were of theirs, and interpretation is unfavourable to the +contagion of social felicity. Nevertheless, it was highly diverting +to watch the influence of the palm wine on their looks, language, and +ideas. The flushed countenance is invisible in a black lady, but then +she has the liquid and unsettled eye, the proneness to talk with +irresistible garrulity, the gentle simper, or the bursting laugh at +any trifle, or at nothing at all; and to wind up the list of +symptoms, she has that complaisant idea of her own good points, and +superior qualifications, which elicit her own approbation, without +exciting the applauses of her associates, and which distinguishes the +inexperienced male reveller in every part of the globe. All these +were observable in their talkative little friend, as well as in her +companions. It was also a relief to contemplate from their resting +place, the peace and harmony of the little party before them, so +entirely different from the boisterous one without; because it gave +them a comfortable sense of their own security, which they should not +certainly have entertained, had they been left to their own +reflections, and when, after a good deal of turning and restlessness +they at length fell into a disagreeable and unrefreshing dose, and +were attacked by that hideous phantom, nightmare, which was often the +case; starting up in fright from the assassin's knife, which they +could scarcely persuade themselves to be unreal; it was pleasant to +fix their eyes upon their comical little visitor, with her round +shining face, and her jolly companions; all apprehension of mischief +immediately vanished, and a truly pleasing effect was produced upon +their minds and spirits. The breaking up of the party on the outside, +was a signal for their friends also to depart. When rising from her +mat, the mistress, after shaking hands, wished them good night in a +thick tremulous tone, and waddled out of their yard in a direction, +which Hogarth denominates the line of beauty, she returned home to +her husband, who was a valetudinarian. Thus passed their evenings, +and thus much of their solitary Eboe friend. + + + +CHAPTER XL. + +In addition to the value of twenty slaves, which the king of Eboe +demanded from them, they now heard that King Boy required the value +of fifteen casks of palm oil, which is equal to fifteen slaves, for +himself, and as payment for the trouble he and his people will have +in conducting them to the English vessel. He said, that he must take +three canoes and one hundred and fifty people, and, therefore, it was +impossible that he could do with less. The chief then said, that if +they did not consent to give King Boy a _book_ for all this money, he +should send them into the interior of the country to be sold, and +that they never should see the sea again. It was now seen that they +had no alternative, and they considered it most prudent to give him +the bill, not intending, however, on their arrival at the sea, to +give him more than twenty common trade guns, to pay this chief and +all other expenses. King Boy was to give Obie five pieces of cloth +and one gun as part payment; the remainder was to be paid on his +return, after having delivered them up to the brig. The Landers and +all their people were now in high spirits, at the prospect of leaving +this place and obtaining their freedom, for they had so much faith in +the character of the English, that they entertained not the slightest +doubt that the captain of the brig would most willingly pay the +ransom money. + +Towards evening, Obie in his showy coral dress came barefooted to +their hut, for the purpose of inspecting their books and examining +the contents of their medicine chest. His approach was announced to +them by the jingling of the little bells which his feet. He appeared +greatly pleased with every thing they said, and looked aghast when +informed of the powerful properties of some of the medicines, which +ended in a fit of laughter. He expressed a strong desire to have a +little, especially of the purgatives, and there being no objection on +the part of the Landers, they supplied him with a good strong dose of +jalap, which had the same affect as it had had upon the sultan of +Yaoorie and family. Obie was evidently fearful of their books, having +been informed that could "tell all things," and appeared to shrink +with horror at which was offered him, shaking his head, saying, that +he must not accept it, for that it was good only for white men, +"Whose God was not his God." The visit was of very short duration, + +On the following day, they found King Boy in the inner yard of the +king's house, and from his significant physiognomy, they conjectured +that he had something of consequence to communicate. Obie received +them with his accustomed politeness and jocularity, but instantly +directed his attention and discourse to King Boy, who maintained an +earnest and pretty animated conversation with him for some time. The +Bonny people were in attendance and weeping. As the Landers were +frequently pointed out and named, they had no doubt whatever that it +was chiefly concerning themselves, which opinion was soon after +confirmed. As if the parties had some secret to discuss, which they +did not wish either their attendants or those of the Landers to +overhear, they retired to the middle court, where having conversed +for a time by themselves, they returned with anxious looks to resume +their conversation. This was repeated twice, after which, as it was +subsequently understood, Obie briefly related in a loud voice the +result of this extraordinary conference, and all present, except the +men of Bonny, shouted simultaneously the monosyllable "Yah," as a +token of their approbation. + +In the mean time, from anxiety to be made acquainted with what had +transpired respecting themselves, they felt rather impatient and +uneasy, the answer of King Boy to their repeated interrogations +having been only "Plenty of bars," the meaning whereof they were +grievously puzzled to define. But shortly after the termination of +the palaver, how transported were they to hear the last mentioned +individual explain himself in broken English to this effect: "In the +conversation, which I have just had with Obie, I have been induced to +offer him the goods, which he demands for your ransom, on the faith +that they be hereafter repaid me by the master of the brig Thomas, +which is now lying in the first Brass, River, and that the value of +fifteen bars or slaves be added thereto in European goods, and +likewise a cask of rum, as a remuneration for the hazard and trouble +which I shall inevitably incur in transporting you to Brass. If you +consent to these resolutions, and on these only will I consent to +redeem you, you will forthwith give me a bill on Captain Lake, for +the receipt of articles to the value of thirty-five bars, after which +you will be at liberty to leave this place, and to go along with me, +whenever you may think proper, agreeably to the understanding at +present existing between Obie and myself." + +This was delightful news indeed, and they thanked King Boy over and +over again for his generosity and nobleness, for they were too much +elated at the time to reflect on the exorbitant demands which had +been imposed upon them. Without hesitation they gave him a bill on +Mr. Lake; indeed there was not anything which they would not have +done, rather than lose the opportunity of getting down to the sea, +which seemed so providentially held out to them. + +Obie perceived by the great and sudden change in their countenances, +the joy which filled their breasts, and having asked them whether +they were not pleased with his arrangements, in the fullness of their +hearts, he exacted from them a promise, that on returning to England, +they would inform their countrymen that he was a good man, and that +they would pay him a visit whenever they should come again into the +country. + +When King Boy came for his _book_, it was given to him, and he wished +to send it down to the brig, to know if it was good. This was no more +than what was to be expected, so he was informed, the book would be +of no use, unless they were sent along with it, and that the captain +would not pay it, before he had taken them on board, on which he put +the bill into his pocket-book. They then bade him farewell, and he +took leave of them in a kind and cordial manner. + +Fearing that something might yet occur to detain them, and ultimately +to change the king's resolution altogether, they were most eager to +get out of the reach of him and his people as quickly as possible. +Therefore they lost not a moment in hastening to their lodgings, and +having sent their people on board Boy's canoe, they hurried after +them immediately, and embarked at three in the afternoon, and thus +terminated four of the most wretched days of their existence. They +were unable to take along with them their own old leaky and shattered +canoe, as it would detain them very much, from being so heavy to move +along. The Damaggoo people accompanied them in their own canoe, and +every thing was arranged for their departure at an early hour on the +following day. The Brass canoe, which was now become their dwelling, +was extremely large, and heavily laden. It was paddled by forty men +and boys, in addition to whom there might be about twenty +individuals, or more, including a few slaves and themselves, so that +the number of human beings amounted altogether to sixty. + +Like Obie's war canoes, it was furnished with a cannon, which was +lashed to the bow, a vast number of cutlasses, and a quantity of +grape and other shot, besides powder, flints, &c. It contained a +number of large boxes or chests, which were filled with spirituous +liquors, cotton, silk goods, earthenware, and other articles of +European and other foreign manufactures; besides abundance of +provisions for present consumption, and two thousand yams for the +master of a Spanish slaver, which was then lying in Brass River. In +this canoe three men might sit abreast of each other, and from the +number of people which it contained, and the immense quantity of +articles of various descriptions, some idea of its size may be +formed. It was cut out of a solid trunk of a tree, and drew four feet +and a half of water, being more than fifty feet in length. It was, +however, so deeply laden, that not above two inches of the canoe were +to be seen above the water's edge. With its present burden, it would +have been impossible for her to sail on any river less smooth than +the Niger, and even as it is, when it comes to be paddled, some +danger exists of its being swamped. It was really laughable to +reflect that the canoe was supplied with two speaking trumpets, +which, considering the stentorian lungs of the men of Brass, were +entirely superfluous, and that she was commanded by regularly +appointed officers, with sounding titles, in imitation of European +vessels, such as captain, mate, boatswain, coxswain, &c. besides a +cook and his minions. These distinctions are encouraged by King Boy, +whose vanity and consequence even in the most trifling concerns, were +irresistibly diverting. The Landers determined to sleep in the canoe +that night, notwithstanding the want of room would render it an +intolerable grievance. Previously to embarking, they had taken a +little boiled yam with palm oil at Obie's house, and they remained +two hours lying on the bank. At seven in the evening they settled +themselves for the night, but found that they were exceedingly +cramped up for want of room, occasioned by the yams being stowed +badly. + +During the night a great tumult arose between the natives and the men +of Brass, which might have had a serious and fatal termination, if +the latter had not taken timely precaution to convey their canoe from +the beach into the middle of the stream, whither the natives could +not follow them. The former had flocked down to the water's edge in +considerable numbers, armed with muskets, spears, and other offensive +weapons, and kept up a dreadful noise, like the howling of wolves, +till long after midnight; when the uproar died away King Boy slept on +shore with his wife Adizzetta, who was Obie's favourite daughter, and +on her account they waited till between seven and eight o'clock in +the morning, when she made her appearance with her husband, who, they +understood, had embraced the present opportunity of making an +excursion with her to his native country, to vary her life a little +by a change of air and scene, and to introduce her to his other wives +and relatives residing at Brass. She had besides expressed a desire +to see white men's ships, and it was partly to gratify her curiosity +in this particular that she was going with them. On stepping into the +canoe, with a spirit of gallantry, Boy handed her to the best seat, +which was a box, close to which he himself sat, and which the +Landers, from motives of delicacy, had relinquished in her favour. +Her face was towards the bow, whilst the two Landers sat directly +_vis-a-vis_ on a heap of yams, but they were So close to the opposite +party that their legs came in continual contact, which threatened to +produce much inconvenience and confusion. They were still further +detained by removing various heavy articles into another canoe, which +was lying alongside, because the canoe in which they were was +pronounced too deeply laden to be safe, but after all she did not +appear to be lightened very considerably. This being all +accomplished, at half-past seven they pushed off the Eboe shore, and +for a little while, with forty paddles dashing up the silvery foam at +the same moment, they glided through the water with the speed of a +dolphin. To the Landers it was altogether a scene of considerable +gratification. + +"The eyes of man," says Richard Lander, "are so placed in his head, +that it has been frequently observed, whether sitting or standing, he +can behold earth and sky at the same moment without inconvenience, +which is an advantage, I believe, that no other animal possesses in +an equal degree, if it does at all. As I was reflecting on this +circumstance I happened to cast my eyes towards the horizon, to +convince myself of its reality, when I found the tall, masculine +figure of Obie's favourite daughter intercepted it entirely from my +view. Being thus balked for a moment in my intentions, I was +instantly diverted from them, and I deemed the opportunity favourable +for studying the physiognomy and person of King Boy's 'ladye love.' +Adizzetta may be between twenty and thirty years of age,[Footnote: +There is a discrepancy in the account given by Lander respecting Obie +and Adizzetta, which we cannot reconcile. Obie is represented to be a +sprightly _young_ man, and yet his favourite daughter Adizzetta is +married, and between 20 and 30 year of age. Obie then could not be a +_young_ man.] or perhaps younger, for she takes snuff, and females +arrive at womanhood in warm countries much sooner than in cold ones. +Her person is tall, stout, and well proportioned, though it has not +dignity sufficient to be commanding; her countenance is round and +open, but dull and almost inexpressive; mildness of manners, evenness +of temper, and inactivity of body also, might notwithstanding, I +think be clearly defined in it; on the whole she has a perfect +virginity of face, which betrays not the smallest symptoms of +feeling. Her forehead is smooth and shining as polished ebony, but it +is rather too low to be noble; her eyes full, large, and beautiful, +though languid; her cheeks of a dutch-like breadth and fullness; her +nose finely compressed, but not quite so distinguished a feature as +the negro nose in general; there is a degree of prettiness about her +mouth, the lips not being disagreeably large, which is further +embellished by a set of elegant teeth, perfectly even and regular, +and white as the teeth of a greyhound; her chin--but I am unable to +describe a chin; I only know that it agrees well with the other +features of her face. + +"Adizzetta seldom laughs, but smiles and simpers most engagingly, +whenever she is more than ordinarily pleased, and she seems not to be +unconscious of the powerful influence which these smiles have over +the mind of her husband. Her dress and personal charms may be +described in a few words; the former consisting simply of a piece of +figured silk, encircling the waist, and extending as far as the +knees; her woolly hair, which is tastefully braided, is enclosed in a +net, and ends in a peak at the top; the net is adorned, but not +profusely, with coral beads, strings of which hang from the crown to +the forehead. She wears necklaces of the same costly bead; copper +rings encircle her fingers and great toes; bracelets of ivory her +wrists, and enormous rings, also, of the elephant's tusks decorate +her legs, near the ankle, by which she is almost disabled from +walking, on account of their ponderous weight and immense size. I had +almost finished the scrutiny of her person, when Adizzetta, observing +me regarding her with more than common attention, at length caught my +eye, and turned away her head, with a triumphant kind of smile, as +much as to say, Aye, white man, you may well admire and adore my +person; I perceive you are struck with my beauty, and no wonder +neither: yet I immediately checked the ill-natured construction, +which I had put on her looks, and accused myself of injustice. For +though, said I to myself, Adizzetta, poor simple savage, may be as +fond of admiration as her white sisters in more civilized lands, yet +her thoughts, for aught I know, might have been very remote from +vanity or self-love. However, that she smiled I am quite certain, and +very prettily too, for I saw a circling dimple, radiating upon her +full, round cheek, which terminated in a momentary gleam of +animation, and illuminate her dark languishing eye, like a flash of +light; and what could all this mean I had forgotten to say that the +person of Obie's daughter is tattooed in various parts, but the +incisions or rather lacerations are irregular and unseemly. Her bosom +in particular bears evident marks of the cutting and gashing, which +it had received when Adizzetta was a child, for the wounds having +badly healed, the skin over them is risen a full half inch above the +natural surface. By the side of each eye, near the temple vein, a +representation of the point of an arrow is alone formed with +tolerable accuracy. They look a though indigo had been inserted into +the flesh with a needle, and by this peculiarity, with which every +female face is impressed, the Eboe women are distinguished from their +neighbours and surrounding tribes. + +"Before breakfast, Adizzetta was employed above an hour in cleaning +and polishing her teeth, by rubbing them with the fibrous roots of a +certain shrub or tree, which are much esteemed, and generally used +for the purpose in her own country, as well as in the more interior +parts. A great part of the day is consumed by many thousands of +individuals in this amusing occupation, and to this cause, the +brilliant whiteness of their teeth, for which Africans, generally +speaking, are remarkable, may be attributed." Such is Lander's +description of an African beauty, and that beauty a queen. + +About ten in the morning, a mess of fish, boiled with yams and +plantains, was produced for breakfast. As King Boy was fearful that +the presence of the Landers might incommode the lady, they were +desired to move farther back, that she might eat with additional +confidence and comfort, for alas! they were not placed on an equality +with Adizzetta and her kingly spouse. When they had breakfasted and +swallowed a calabash of water from the stream, the Landers were +served with a plateful, and afterwards the boat's crew and the slaves +were likewise regaled with yams and wafer. In the evening, another +refreshment, similar to this, was served round to all, and these are +the only meals which the men of Brass have during the twenty-four +hours. Before eating, Boy himself made it a practice of offering a +small portion of his food to the spirits of the river, that his +voyage might be rendered propitious by conciliating their good will. +Previously also to his drinking a glass of rum or spirits, he poured +a few drops of it into the water, invoking the protection of these +fanciful beings, by muttering several expressions between his teeth, +the tenor of which, of course, they did not understand. This +religious observance, they were told, was invariably performed, +whenever the Brass people have occasion to leave their country by +water, or return to it by the same means; it is called a meat and +drink offering, and is celebrated at every meal. A custom very +similar to this prevails at Yarriba, at Badagry, Cape Coast Castle, +and along the western coast generally; the natives of those places +never take a glass of spirits without spilling a quantity of it on +the ground as "a fetish." In the morning, they observed a branch of +the river running off in a westerly direction, the course of the main +body being southwest. + +They stopped awhile at various little villages during the day, to +purchase yams, bananas, and cocoa-nuts, and the curiosity of their +poor inhabitants at their appearance was intense. They were chiefly +fishermen or husbandmen, and notwithstanding the uncouth and +remarkable dress of the Landers, they behaved to them without +rudeness and even with civility, so that their inquisitiveness was +not disagreeable. Speaking trumpets, it was imagined, were quite a +novelty with the men at Brass, by the extraordinary rapture which +they displayed for their music, which certainly was anything but +melodious. It has been already stated that two of these instruments +were in the canoe, for the convenience of issuing orders, and during +the whole of the day, they were not ten minutes together from the +mouths of the officers, so great was the desire of all of them to +breathe through them, and which adds considerably to the deafening +noises made by their constant quarrelling with each other. This was a +great annoyance to the Landers, but they were constrained to submit +to it in silence; besides, it was entirely superfluous, for the +voices of the people were of themselves loud and powerful enough for +all the common purposes of life; and when they have a mind to strain +their brazen lungs, no speaking trumpet that has ever been made, be +it ever so large, could match the quantity of horrid sound which they +made; it would, in fact, drown the roaring of the sea. + +In addition to the officers and attendants in the canoe formerly +mentioned, they had one drummer, the king's steward, and his lady's +maid, and two persons to bale out water, besides three captains, to +give the necessary directions for the safety of the canoe. The noise +made by these people on their starting, in bawling to their fetish +through the trumpets, was beyond all description. Their object was to +secure them a safe journey, and most certainly, if noise could do so, +they were pretty certain of it. + +The villages that they passed in the course of the day, were very +numerous, and not distant more than two or three miles from each +other, on the banks of the river. They were surrounded by more +cultivated land than they had seen for the previous fortnight; the +crops consisting of yams, bananas, plantains, indian corn, &c. &c., +not having seen so much since they left Kacunda. The villages had a +pleasing appearance from the river. The houses seemed to be built of +a light-coloured clay, and being thatched with palm branches, they +very much resembled our own cottages. They were of a square form, +with two windows on each side of the door, but have no upper rooms. + +In many places they observed that the river had overflowed its banks, +and was running between the trees and thick underwood. In the widest +part, it did not seem more than a mile and a half across, in fact, +its width, contrary to the usual course of rivers, when approaching +the sea, was sensibly diminishing, and was dwindling away into an +ordinary stream. + +"Perhaps," says Richard Lander, "there cannot be a greater comfort +under the sun, than sound and invigorating sleep to the weary, nor in +our opinion, a greater grievance than the loss of it; because +wakefulness at those hours, which nature has destined for repose, is, +in nine cases out of ten, sure to be the harbinger of peevishness, +discontent, and ill humour, and not unfrequently induces languor, +lassitude, and disease. No two individuals in the world have greater +reason to complain of disturbed slumbers or nightly watching, than +ourselves. Heretofore, this has been occasioned chiefly by exposure +to damps, rains, and dews, mosquito attacks, frightful and piercing +noises, and over-fatigue, or apprehension or anxiety of mind. But +now, in the absence of most of these causes, we are cramped, +painfully cramped for want of room, insomuch, that when we feel +drowsy, we find it impossible to place ourselves in a recumbent +posture, without having the heavy legs of Mr. and Mrs. Boy, with +their prodigious ornaments of ivory, placed either on our faces or on +our breasts. From such a situation it requires almost the strength of +a rhinoceros to be freed; it is most excessively teasing. Last night +we were particularly unfortunate in this respect, and a second attack +of fever, which came on me in the evening, rendered my condition +lamentable indeed, and truly piteous. It would be ridiculous to +suppose, that one can enjoy the refreshment of sleep, how much soever +it my be required, when two or more uncovered legs and feet, huge, +black, and rough, are traversing one's face and body, stopping up the +passages of respiration, and pressing so heavily upon them at times, +as to threaten suffocation. I could not long endure so serious an +inconvenience, but preferred last night sitting up in the canoe. My +brother was indisposed, and in fact unable to follow my example, and +therefores I endeavoured, if possible, to render his situation more +tolerable. With this object in view, I pinched the feet of our +snoring companions, Mr. and Mrs. Boy, repeatedly, till the pain +caused them to awake, and remove their brawny feet from his face, and +this enabled him to draw backwards a few inches, and place his head +into a narrow recess, which is formed by two boxes. However, this did +not allow him liberty to turn it either way, and thus jammed, with no +command whatever over his suffering limbs, he passed the hours +without sleep, and arose this morning with bruised bones and sore +limbs, complaining bitterly of the wretched moments, which the legs +of Mr. and Mrs. Boy had caused him, with their ivory rings and heaps +of yams." + +They now arrived at a convenient place for stopping awhile, to give +their canoe men rest from their labour, and at day break they +launched out again into the river, and paddled down the stream. At +seven in the morning, Boy and his wife having landed to trade, the +Landers took advantage of their absence and slept soundly for two +hours, without the risk of being disturbed by the brawny legs of +either the gentleman or lady. + +They continued their course down the river until two hours after +midnight, when they stopped near a small village on the east side of +the river. They made fast to the shore, and the people settled +themselves in the canoe to sleep. Having sat up the whole of the +previous night, for the best of all reasons, because they could find +no room to lie down, in consequence of the crowded state of the +canoe, and feeling themselves quite unequal to do the same, the +Landers took their mats and went on shore, determined if possible, to +sleep on the ground. Overcome by fatigue, the fear of being attacked +by alligators, or any thing else, they selected a dry place and laid +themselves down on their mats. They had nearly dropped asleep, when +they were roused by several severe stings, and found themselves +covered with black ants. They had got up their trousers, and were +tormenting them dreadfully. At first they knew not which way to get +rid of them. Their men, Pascoe, Sam, and Jowdie, seeing the condition +they were in, landed from the canoe, and made large fires in the form +of a ring, and they laid down in the midst of them and slept till +daylight. The sting of a black ant is quite as painful as that of a +wasp. + +Towards the evening of the following day, they departed from the main +river, and took their course up a small branch towards Brass Town, +running in a direction about southeast from that which they had just +left. They had not proceeded far on this course, when to their great +satisfaction, they found themselves influenced by the tide. They had +previously observed an appearance of foam on the water, which might +have been carried up by the flood tide from the mouth of the river, +but they now felt certain of being within its influence. They were +constantly annoyed by the canoe running aground on a bank, or +sticking fast in the underwood, which delayed their progress +considerably, and the men were obliged to get out to lighten and lift +the canoe off them. Their tract was through a narrow creek, arched +over by mangroves, so as to form a complete avenue, which in many +places was so thick as to be totally impenetrable by the light above. +A heavy shower of rain came on and wetted them thoroughly, and after +this was over, the dripping from the trees, which overhung the canoe, +kept them in constant rain nearly the whole of the night. The smell +from decayed vegetable substances was sickly and exceedingly +disagreeable. + +Through these dismal and gloomy passages, they travelled during the +whole of the night of the 15th November without stopping, unless for +a few minutes at a time, to disengage themselves from the pendant +shoots of the mangrove and spreading brambles, in which they +occasionally became entangled. These luxuriant natives of the soil +are so intricately woven, that it would be next to impossible to +eradicate them. Their roots and branches are the receptacles of ooze, +mud, and filth of all kinds, exhaling a peculiar offensive odour, +which no doubt possesses highly deleterious qualities. + +The reason adduced for not resting during the night, was the +apprehension entertained by King Boy, of being unable to overtake his +father and brothers, they having left the Eboe country the day before +them. A certain spot had been previously fixed upon by the parties +for the meeting, and they arrived there about nine o'clock a.m., and +found those individuals in three large canoes, with their attendants, +waiting their arrival. Here they stopped, and made their canoes fast +to the trees, to take refreshment, such as it was, and half an hour's +rest; and here they were introduced to the renowned King Forday, who +according to his own account is monarch of the whole country. In one +of the canoes sat old King Forday, in company with several fetish +priests; the second canoe belonged to King Boy, and the third was Mr. +Gun's. These canoes had come thus far for the purpose of escorting +them into their country. + +King Forday was a complaisant venerable-looking old man, but was +rather shabbily dressed, partly in the European and partly in the +native style. Like most savages, his fondness for spirituous liquors +was extreme, and he took large potations of rum in their presence, +though it produced no visible effect upon his manner or conversation. +In the jollity of the moment, he attempted to sing, but his weak +piping voice did not seem to second his inclination, and the sound +died away from very feebleness. His subjects, however, amounting to +nearly two hundred individuals, testified their approbation of the +effort by a tremendous "Yah!" shouted simultaneously by every voice, +which sounded like the roar of a lion. + +During the time that they had been at breakfast, the tide ebbed, and +left their canoes lying on the mud. Breakfast being over, the fetish +priests commenced their avocations, by marking the person of King Boy +from head to foot with chalk, in lines, circles, and a variety of +fantastic figures, which so completely metamorphosed him, as to +render his identity rather questionable, at the distance of only a +few yards. His usual dress had been thrown aside, and he was allowed +to wear nothing but a narrow silk handkerchief tied round his waist; +on his head a little close cap was placed, made of grass, and +ornamented with large feathers. These they found to be the wing +feathers of a black and white buzzard, which is the fetish bird of +Brass Town. Two huge spears were also chalked and put into his hands, +and thus equipped his appearance was wild and grotesque in the +extreme. The same operation was performed on the rest of the party, +and the fetish priests were chalked in the same manner. The people +belonging to the Landers were merely marked on the forehead, and the +Landers themselves, perhaps from being already white, although their +faces were not a little tanned, were exempted from the ceremony. + +They were now ordered into King Forday's canoe, to sit down with him. +The old man asked them immediately in tolerably good English, to take +a glass of rum with him; and having observed them wondering at the +strange appearance of King Boy, and the rest of the party, gave them +to understand that in consequence of no man having come down the +river as they had done, the fetish ceremony was performed to prevent +any thing happening to them. They also understood from him, that a +certain rite would be performed to _Dju-dju_, the fetish or domestic +god of Brass Town, in honour of their coming. + +The tide was now fast returning, and preparations were made for +proceeding to Brass Town. For this purpose the canoes were all +arranged in a line, that of King Boy taking the lead; the Landers and +King Forday in the next, followed by King Boy's brother; Mr. Gun and +the Damaggoo people in others, and in this order they proceeded up +the river. Gun was styled the _little military king_ of Brass Town, +from being entrusted with the care of all the arms and ammunition, +and on this occasion, he gave them frequent opportunities of +witnessing his importance and activity, by suddenly passing a short +distance from the rest of the canoes, and firing off the cannon in +the bow of his own, and then dropping behind again. + +The whole procession formed one of the most extraordinary sights that +can be imagined. The canoes were following each other up the river in +tolerable order, each of them displaying three flags. In the first +was King Boy, standing erect and conspicuous, his head dress of +feathers waving with the movements of his body, which had been +chalked in various fantastic figures, rendered more distinct by its +natural colour. His hands were resting on the barbs of two immense +spears, which at intervals he darted violently into the bottom of his +canoe, as if he were in the act of killing some formidable wild +animal under his feet. In the bows of all the other canoes, fetish +priests were dancing, and performing various extraordinary antics, +their persons as well as those of the people in them, being chalked +over in the same manner as that of King Boy; and to crown the whole, +Mr. Gun, the little military gentleman, was most actively employed, +his canoe, now darting before, and now dropping behind the rest, +adding not a little to the imposing effect of the whole scene, by the +repeated discharges of his cannon. + +In this manner they continued on till about noon, when they entered a +little bay, and saw before them on the south side of it, two distinct +groups of buildings, one of which was King Forday's own, and the +other King Jacket's town. The cannons in all the canoes were now +fired off, and the whole of the people were quickly on the look-out, +to witness their approach. The firing having ceased, the greatest +stillness prevailed, and the canoes moved forward very slowly between +the two towns to a small island, a little to the east of Jacket's +town. This island is the abode of _Dju-dju_, or grand fetish priest, +and his wives, no one else being permitted to reside there. As they +passed Forday's town, a salute of seven guns was fired off at a +small battery near the water. The canoes stopped near the fetish hut +on the island, which was a low insignificant building of clay. The +priest, who was chalked over nearly in the same manner as Boy, drew +near to the water's edge, and with a peculiar air asked some +questions, which appeared to be answered to his satisfaction. Boy +then landed, and preceded by the tall figure of the priest, entered +the religious hut. Soon after this, the priest came to the +water-side, and looking at the Landers with much earnestness, broke +an egg, and poured some liquid into the water, after which he +returned again to the hut. The Brass men then rushed on a sudden into +the water, and returned in the same hasty manner, which to the +Landers appeared equally as mysterious as the rest of the ceremony. + +After remaining at the island about an hour, during which time Boy +was in the hut with the priest, he rejoined them, and they proceeded +to Forday's town, and took up their residence at Boy's house. In the +extraordinary ceremony which they had just witnessed, it was evident +that they were the persons principally concerned, but whether it +terminated in their favour or against them; whether the answers of +the _Dju-dju_ were propitious or otherwise, they were only able to +ascertain by the behaviour of the Brass people towards them. + +It was with the strongest emotions of joy that they saw a white man +on shore, whilst they were in the canoe, waiting the conclusion of +the ceremony. It was a cheering and goodly sight to recognize the +features of an European, in the midst of a crowd of savages. This +individual paid them a visit in the evening; his behaviour was +perfectly affable, courteous, and obliging, and in the course of a +conversation which they had with him, he informed them that he was +the master of the Spanish schooner, which was then lying in the Brass +River for slaves. Six of her crew, who were ill of the fever, and who +were still indisposed, likewise resided in the town. + +Of all the wretched, filthy, and contemptible places in this world of +ours, none can present to the eye of a stranger so miserable an +appearance, or can offer such disgusting and loathsome sights as this +abominable Brass Town. Dogs, goats, and other animals were running +about the dirty streets half starved, whose hungry looks could only +be exceeded by the famishing appearance of the men, women, and +children, which bespoke the penury and wretchedness to which they +were reduced, while the sons of many of them were covered with odious +boils, and their huts were falling to the ground from neglect and +decay. + +Brass, properly speaking, consists of two towns of nearly equal size, +containing about a thousand inhabitants each, and built on the +borders of a kind of basin, which is formed by a number of rivulets, +entering it from the Niger through forests of mangrove bushes. One of +them was under the domination of a noted scoundrel, called King +Jacket, to whom a former allusion has been made, and the other was +governed by a rival chief, named King Forday. These towns are +situated directly opposite each other, and within the distance of +eighty yards, and are built on a marshy ground, which occasions the +huts to be always wet. Another place, called Pilot's Town by +Europeans, from the number of pilots that reside in it, is situated +nearly at the mouth of the first Brass River, which the Landers +understood to be the "_Nun_" River of the Europeans, and at the +distance of sixty or seventy miles from hence. This town acknowledges +the authority of both kings, having been originally peopled by +settlers from each of their towns. At the ebb of the tide, the basin +is left perfectly dry, with the exception of small gutters, and +presents a smooth and almost unvaried surface of black mud, which +emits an intolerable odour, owing to the decomposition of vegetable +substances, and the quantity of filth and nastiness which is thrown +into the basin by the inhabitants of both towns. Notwithstanding this +nuisance, both children and grown-up persons may be seen sporting in +the mud, whenever the tide goes out, all naked, and amusing +themselves in the same manner, as if they were on shore. + +The Brass people grow neither yams, nor bananas, nor grain of any +kind, cultivating only the plantain as an article of food, which, +with the addition of a little fish, forms their principal diet. Yams, +however, are frequently imported from Eboe, and other countries by +the chief people, who resell great quantities of them to the shipping +that may happen to be in the river. They are enabled to do this by +the very considerable profits which accrue to them from their trading +transactions with people residing further inland, and from the palm +oil which they themselves manufacture, and which they dispose of to +the Liverpool traders. The soil in the vicinity of Brass is, for the +most part, poor and marshy, though it is covered with a rank, +luxuriant and impenetrable vegetation. Even in the hands of an +active, industrious race, it would offer almost insuperable obstacles +to general cultivation; but, with its present possessory, the +mangrove itself can never be extirpated, and the country will, it is +likely enough, maintain its present appearance till the end of time. + +The dwelling in which the Landers resided, belonged to King Boy, and +stood on the extreme edge of the basin, and was constructed not long +since, by a carpenter, who came up the river for the purpose from +Calabar, of which place he was a native: he received seven slaves for +his labour. This man must evidently have seen European dwellings, as +there was decidedly an attempt to imitate them. It was of an oblong +form, containing four apartments, which were all on the ground-floor, +lined with wood, and furnished with tolerably-made doors and +cupboards. This wood bore decided marks of its having once formed +part of a vessel, and was most likely the remains of one which, +according to report, was wrecked not long ago on the bar of the +river. The house had recently been converted into a kind of seraglio +by King Boy, because ho had, to use his own expression, "plenty of +wives," who required looking after. It also answered the purpose of a +store-house for European goods, tobacco, and spirituous liquors. Its +rafters were of bamboo, and its thatch of palm leaves. The +apartment which the Landers occupied, had a window overlooking the +basin, outside of which was a veranda, occupied at the time by Pascoe +and his wives. The whole of its furniture consisted of an old oaken +table, but it was supplied with seats, made of clay, which were +raised about three feet from the ground. These, together with the +floor, which was of mud, were so soft and wet as to enable a person +to thrust his hand into any part of them without any difficulty +whatever. In one corner, communicating with the other apartments, was +a door destitute of a lock, and kept always ajar, except at night, +when it was closed. One of the sides of the room was decorated with +an old French print, representing the Virgin Mary, with a great +number of chubby-faced angels ministering to her, at whose feet was a +prayer on "Our Lady's good deliverance." The whole group was designed +and executed badly. + +When the tide is at its height, the water flows up to the doors and +windows of the house, which may perhaps account for its dampness; it +is, however, held in very high estimation by its owner, and was +called an English house. In general the houses are built of a kind of +yellow clay, and the windows are all furnished with shutters. + +There were several huts opposite the town, where the people make +salt, after the rains are over; the water at present was brackish +from the effect of the rains, but according to the information given +by Boy, in the course of two months it will be quite salt, when they +will again commence making it. It is an article of trade, and appears +to be taken in large quantities to the Eboe market, where it is +exchanged for yams, the kowrie shell not being circulated lower down +the river than Bocqua. The principal employment of the people +consists in making salt, fishing, boiling oil, and trading to the +Eboe country, for not a particle of cultivated land was to be seen. +The people live exclusively on yams and palm oil, with sometimes a +small quantity of fish. They bring poultry from the Eboe country, but +rear very little themselves, and what they do rear is very carefully +preserved, and sold to the ships that frequent the river. + +A little palm oil would have been a great luxury to the Landers, but +King Boy would not give them any. Their allowance consisted of half a +small yam each day, but on the evening after their arrival, his +majesty being out of the way, two of his wives brought them half a +glass of rum each, and four yams; this was a great treat to them, but +a considerable risk to the ladies, for had Boy discovered the theft, +it is more than likely that he would have had them flogged and sold. + +Wet and uncomfortable as was their dwelling, yet it was infinitely +more desirable and convenient than their confined quarters in the +canoe, for here they had the pleasure of reposing at full length, +which was a luxury they could not have purchased on the water at any +price. + +The Spanish captain paid them another visit, and left the town in the +afternoon, on his return to his vessel. He informed them that slaves +were very scarce, and obtained with difficulty and expense. + +Richard Lander was now invited to visit King Forday, and he +accordingly complied with the summons. His house was situated about a +hundred yards distant from that of King Boy, and on entering it, he +found him sitting, half drunk, with about a dozen of his wives, and a +number of dogs in a small filthy room. Lander was desired to sit down +by his side, and to drink a glass of rum. He was then given to +understand, as well as his majesty was able, that it was customary +for every white man who came down the river to pay him four bars. +Lander expressed his ignorance and surprise at this demand, but was +soon silenced by his saying, "That is my demand, and I shall not +allow you to leave this town until you give me a _book_ for that +amount." Seeing that he had nothing to do but to comply with his +demand, Lander gave him a bill on Lake the commander of the English +vessel, after which he said, "To-morrow you may go to the brig; take +one servant with yon, but your mate, (meaning his brother,) must +remain here with your seven people, until my son, King Boy, shall +bring the goods for himself and me, after this they shall be sent on +board without delay." + +In order that he might make a decent appearance before his countrymen +on the following day, Richard Lander was obliged to sit the whole of +the afternoon with an old cloth wrapped round him, until his clothes +were washed and dried. This was the most miserable and starving place +which they had yet visited: since their arrival, Mr. Gun had sent +them two meals, consisting of a little pounded yam, and fish stewed +in palm oil, and for this he had the impudence to demand two muskets +in payment. These fellows, like the rest on the coast, were a set of +imposing rascals, little better than downright savages; Lander was +informed that they had absolutely starved three white men, shortly +before his arrival, who had been wrecked in a slaving vessel, when +crossing the bar. + + + +CHAPTER XLI. + +Richard Lander had determined that one of his men should accompany +him down the river, and at ten o'clock, having taken leave of his +brother and the rest of the party, they embarked in King Boy's canoe, +with a light heart and an anxious mind: although distant about sixty +miles from the mouth of the river, his journey appeared to him +already completed, and all his troubles and difficulties, he +considered at an end. Already, in fond anticipation, he was on board +the brig, and had found a welcome reception from her commander had +related to him all the hardships and dangers they had undergone, and +had been listened to with commiseration; already had he assured +himself of his doing all he could to enable him to fulfil his +engagements with these people, and thought themselves happy in +finding a vessel belonging to their own country in the river at the +time of their arrival. These meditations and a train of others about +home and friends, to which they naturally led, occupied his mind as +the canoe passed through the narrow creeks, sometimes winding under +avenues of mangrove trees, and at others expanding into small lakes +occasioned by the overflowing of the river. The captain of the canoe, +a tall sturdy fellow, was standing up, directing its course, +occasionally hallooing as they came to a turn in the creek, to the +fetish, and where an echo was returned half a glass of rum and a +piece of yam and fish were thrown into the water. Lander had seen +this done before, and on asking Boy the reason why he was throwing +away the provisions thus, he asked, "Did you not hear the fetish?" +The captain of the canoe replied, "Yes." "That is for the fetish," +said Boy, "if we do not feed him, and do good for him, he will kill +us, or make us poor and sick." Lander could not help smiling at the +ignorance of the poor creatures, but such is their firm belief. + +They had pursued their course in this manner, which had been +principally to the west, till about three in the afternoon, when they +came to a branch of the river about two hundred yards wide, and +seeing a small village at a short distance before them, they stopped +there for the purpose of obtaining some dried fish. Having supplied +their wants and proceeded on, about an hour afterwards they again +stopped, that their people might take some refreshment. Boy very +kindly presented Lander with a large piece of yam, reserving to +himself all the fish they had got at the village, and after making a +hearty meal off them, he fell asleep. While he was snoring by +Lander's side, the remainder of the fish attracted his notice, and +not feeling half satisfied with the yam which had been given him, he +felt an irresistible inclination to taste them. Conscience acquitted +him on the score of hunger, and hinted that such an opportunity +should not be lost, and accordingly, he very quickly demolished two +small ones. Although entirely raw, they were delicious, and he never +remembered having enjoyed anything with a better relish in all his +life. + +There was scarcely a spot of dry land to be seen anywhere, all was +covered with water and mangrove trees. After remaining about half an +hour, they again proceeded, and at seven in the evening arrived in +the second Brass River, which was a large branch of the Quorra. They +kept their course down it about due south, and half an hour +afterwards, Lander heard the welcome sound of the surf on the beach. +They still continued onwards, and at a quarter before eight in the +evening, they made their canoe fast to a tree for the night, on the +west bank of the river. + +On the following morning, Lander found his clothes as thoroughly wet +from the effects of the dew, as if he had been lying in the river all +night instead of the canoe. At five in the morning, they let go the +rope from the tree, and took their course in a westerly direction up +a creek. At seven they arrived in the main branch of the Quorra, +which is called the River Nun, or the First Brass River, having +entered it opposite to a large branch, which, from the information +given by King Boy, ran to Benin. The direction of the River Nun was +here nearly north and south, and they kept on their course down the +stream. + +About a quarter an hour after they had entered the river Nun, they +discerned at a distance from them, two vessels lying at anchor. The +emotions of delight which the sight of them occasioned were beyond +the power of Lander to describe. The nearest was a schooner, a +Spanish slave vessel, whose captain they had seen at Brass Town. +Their canoe was quickly by her side, and Lander went on board. The +captain received him very kindly, and invited him to take some +spirits and water with him. He complained sadly of the sickly state +of the crew, asserting that the river was extremely unhealthy, and +that he had only been in it six weeks, in which time he had lost as +many men. The remainder of his crew, consisting of thirty persons, +were in such a reduced state, that they were scarcely able to move, +and were lying about his decks, more resembling skeletons man living +persons. Lander could do no good with the Spaniard, so he took his +leave of him, and returned into the canoe. + +They now directed their course to the English brig, which was lying +about three hundred yards lower down the river. Having reached her, +with feelings of delight, mingled with doubt, Lander went on board. +Here he found every thing in as sad a condition, as he had in the +schooner, four of the crew had just died of fever, four more which +completed the whole, were lying sick in their hammocks, and the +captain himself appeared to be in the very last stage of illness. He +had recovered from a severe attack of fever, and having suffered a +relapse in consequence of having exposed himself too soon, which had +been nearly fatal to him, Lander now stated to him who he was, +explained his situation to him as fully as he could, and had his +instructions read to him by one of his own people, that he might see +there was no intention to impose upon him. Lander then requested that +he would redeem them by paying what had been demanded by King Boy, +and assured him, that whatever he might give to him on their account +would certainly be repaid him by the British government. To the utter +surprise, however, of Lander, he flatly refused to give a single +thing, ill and weak as he was, made use of the most offensive and the +most shameful oaths, which he ever heard. Petrified amazement, and +horror-struck at such conduct, Lander shrunk from him with terror. He +could scarcely believe what he had heard, till his ears were assailed +by a repetition of the same oaths. Disappointed beyond measure, by +such brutal conduct from one of his own countrymen, he could not have +believed it possible, his feelings completely overpowered him, and he +was ready to sink with grief and shame. He was now undetermined how +to act, or what course to pursue. Never in his life did he feel such +humiliation as at this moment. In his way through the country he had +been treated well; he had been in the habit of making such presents +as had been expected from them, and above all, they had maintained +their character amongst the natives, by keeping their promises. This +was now no longer in his power, as his means were all expended, and +when as a last, and as he had imagined, a certain resource, he had +promised the price of his ransom should be paid by the first of his +countrymen that he might meet with, on the best of all securities, to +be thus refused and dishonoured by him, would, he knew, degrade them +sadly in the opinion of the natives, if it did not lessen them in +their own. + +As there were no hopes that the captain of this vessel would pay any +thing for them, he went on board the canoe again, and told King Boy, +that he must take him to Bonny, as a number of English ships were +there. "No, no," said he, "dis captain no pay, Bonny captain no pay. +I won't take you any further." As this would not do, Lander again had +recourse to the captain, and implored him to do something for him, +telling him that if he would only let him have ten muskets, Boy might +be content with them, when he found that he could get nothing else. +The only reply Lander received was; "I have told you already I will +not let you have even a flint, so bother me no more." "But I have a +brother and eight people at Brass Town," said Lander to him, "and if +you do not intend to pay King Boy, at least persuade him to bring +them here, or else he will poison or starve my brother, before I can +get any assistance from a man of war, and sell all my people." The +only answer given was; "If you can get them on board, I will take +them away, but as I have told you before, you do not get a flint from +me." Lander then endeavoured to persuade Boy to go back for his +people, and that he should be paid some time or other. "Yes," said +the captain, "make haste and bring them." Boy very naturally required +some of his goods before he went, and it was with no small +difficulty, that Lander prevailed on him afterwards to go without +them. + +The captain of the brig now inquired what men Lander had, and on his +telling him he had two seamen, and three others, who might be useful +to him in working his vessel, his tone and manner began to soften. He +fully agreed with Lander, that they might be useful in getting the +brig out of the river, as half of his crew were dead, and the other +half sick, so Lander took courage and asked him for a piece of beef +to send to his brother, and a small quantity of rum, which he readily +gave. Lander knew that his brother as well as himself, much needed a +change of linen, but he could not venture to ask such a thing from +the captain with much hopes of success, so the cook of the brig, +appearing to be a respectable sort of a man, an application was made +to him, and he produced instantly three white shirts. King Boy was +now ready to depart, not a little discontented, and Lander sent his +own man in the canoe, with the few things which he had been able to +obtain, and a note for his brother. The latter was desired to give +Antonio an order on any English captain that he might find at Bonny, +for his wages, and also one for the Damaggoo people, that they might +receive the small present he had promised to their good old chief, +who had treated them so well. At two in the afternoon, King Boy took +his departure, promising to return with John Lander and his people in +three days, but grumbling much at not having been paid his goods. + +Lander endeavoured to make himself as comfortable as he could in the +vessel, and thinking that the captain might change his behaviour +towards him, when he got better, he determined to have as little to +say to him till then as possible. On the following day, Captain Lake +appeared to be much better, and Lander ventured to ask him for a +change of linen, of which he was in great want. This request was +immediately complied with, and he enjoyed a luxury which he had not +experienced a long time. In the course of the morning, Lander +conversed with him about his travels in the country, and related the +whole of the particulars of the manner in which they had been +attacked and plundered at Kirree. He then explained to him how King +Boy had saved them from slavery in the Eboe country, and how much +they felt indebted to him for it. He endeavoured particularly to +impress this on his mind, as he still hoped to bring him round to pay +what he had promised. Having laid all before him as fully as he was +able, and pointed out to him the bad opinion which Boy would have of +them, and the injurious tendency towards Englishmen in general, that +would result from not keeping their word with him, which it was in +his power to enable them to do, he ventured to ask him to give him +ten muskets for his bill on government. He listened apparently with +great attention to his story, but Lander no sooner advanced his +wants, than with a furious oath, he repeated his refusal, and finding +him as determined as ever he had been, he mentioned it no more. He +moreover told him in the most unkind and petulant manner, "If your +brother and people are not here in three days, I go without them." +This, it was believed, he would not do, as the men would be of +service to him, but Boy had given his promise, that they should be at +the vessel in that time. + +In the middle of the day, the pilot who had brought the vessel into +the river, came on board and demanded payment for it, which gave +Lander an opportunity of seeing more of the disposition of Mr. Lake. +The pilot had no sooner made his business known, than Lake flew into +a violent passion, cursing and abusing him in the most disgusting +language he could use; he refused to pay him any thing whatever, and +ordered him to go out of the ship immediately. Whether Lake was right +or wrong in this, Lander knew not, but he was shocked at his +expressions, and the pilot reluctantly went away, threatening that he +would sink his vessel, if he offered to leave the river without +paying him his due. He was rather surprised to hear such language +from the pilot, and doubted his meaning, until he found that he had a +battery of seven brass guns at the town on the eastern side of the +river, near its entrance, which, if well managed, might soon produce +that effect. This town, as before observed, is named Pilot's Town, +being the established residence of those who conduct vessels over the +bar. + +On the following day, Lander inquired of Capt. Lake, whether, when +they left the river, he would take them to Fernando Po. This, +however, he again refused, saying that the island had been given up; +that there was not a single white man on it, and that no assistance +could be got there, but that if all the people should arrive by the +morning of the 23rd, he would land them at Bimbia, a small island in +the river Cameroons, whither he was going to complete his cargo, and +at this island he said that Lander would find a white man, who kept a +store for Captain Smith. Lander was quite satisfied with this +arrangement, feeling assured that he should get every thing he might +want from him. + +Lander's chief concern was now about his brother, and he much feared +that the vessel would sail without him, for there was no dependence +on the captain, so little did he care for them, or the object for +which they had visited the country. Lander took an opportunity of +begging him, in the event of his brother and the men not arriving by +the 23rd, to wait a little longer for them, asserting at the same +time, that if he went away without them, they would be assuredly +starved or sold as slaves, before he could return to them with +assistance. He might just as well have addressed himself to the +wind--"I can't help it, I shall wait no longer," was the only reply +he made, in a surly, hasty tone, which was a convincing proof that +all attempts to reason with him would be fruitless. + +In the afternoon, the chief mate and three Kroomen were sent away by +his direction to sound the bar of the river, to know whether there +was sufficient depth of water for the vessel to pass over it. The +pilot, who had been dismissed so peremptorily on the preceding day, +was determined to have his revenge, and being naturally on the look +out, had observed the movements of the boat; so favourable an +opportunity was not to be lost, and accordingly watching her, he +despatched an armed canoe, and intercepted her return at the mouth of +the river. The mate of the brig and one of the Kroomen were quickly +made prisoners and conveyed to Pilot's Town, and the boat with the +remainder sent back with a message to the captain, that they would +not be given up until the pilotage should be paid. Lake must have +felt somewhat annoyed at this, but whether he did or not, he treated +it with the greatest indifference, saying that he did not care, he +would go to sea without his mate or the Kroomen either, and that he +was determined not to pay the pilotage. + +On the 22nd of December, the anxiety of Lander for his brother's +safety made him extremely unhappy, and during the whole of the day he +was on the look out for him; Lake, observing the distress he was in, +told him not to trouble himself any more about him, adding, that he +was sure he was dead, and that he need not expect to see him again. +"If he had been alive," said Lake, "he would have been here by this +time, to-morrow morning I shall leave the river." Such inhuman and +unfeeling conduct from this man only tended to increase Lander's +dislike for him, and without paying him any attention, he kept +looking out for his party. So great was his anxiety that he was on +the look out long after dusk, nor could he sleep during the whole of +the night. + +The 23rd arrived, the day fixed for the departure, but to the great +joy of Lander, and the mortification of Lake, the sea breeze was so +strong that it raised a considerable surf on the bar, and prevented +them from getting out. This was a most anxious time for Lander, and +the whole of the day his eyes were riveted to the part of the river +where he knew his brother must come. The whole day passed in tedious +watching, and the night was far spent without any tidings of him. +About midnight he saw several large canoes making their way over to +the west bank of the river, in one of which he imagined that he could +distinguish his brother. He observed them soon after landing, and saw +by the fires which they made, that they had encamped under some +mangrove trees. All his fears and apprehensions vanished in an +instant, and he was overjoyed with the thoughts of meeting his +brother in the morning. + +The captain of the brig having observed them, suddenly exclaimed, +"Now we shall have a little fighting to-morrow, go you and load +seventeen muskets, and put five buck shot into each. I will take care +that the cannon shall be loaded to the muzzle with balls and flints, +and if there is any row, I will give them such a scouring as they +never had." He then directed Lander to place the muskets and +cutlasses out of sight, near the stern of the vessel, and said to +him, "The instant that your people come on board, call them aft, and +let them stand by the arms. Tell them, if there is any row to arm +themselves directly, and drive all the Brass people overboard." This +was summary work with a vengeance, and every thing betokened that +Lake was in earnest. Lander saw clearly that he was resolved on +adopting severe measures, and he appeared to possess all the +determination necessary to carry them through. + +Lander could not help feeling otherwise than distressed and +ashamed of leaving the Brass people in this manner, but he had no +alternative, there was no one to whom he could apply for assistance +in his present situation, except the captain of the vessel, and to +him he had applied in vain. His entreaties were thrown away on him, +and even the certainty of an ample recompense by the British +government, which had been held out to him, had been treated with +contempt. He, therefore, had no hopes from that quarter. Boy had +refused to take them to Bonny, asserting that if he could not be paid +here, he should not be paid there, and to go back to Brass Town would +be deliberately returning to starvation. His last resource, +therefore, was to put the best face on the business which he could, +and as no other plan was left him, to get away by fair means or foul, +and let the blame fall where it was incurred. + +Early on the following morning, Lander was on the look out for his +brother, and soon observed him and the people get into the canoe. +They were no sooner embarked than they all landed again, which could +be accounted for in no other way, than by supposing that it was the +intention of Boy to keep them on shore, until he had received the +goods. He was, however, not long in this state of anxiety, for about +seven o'clock, they embarked and were brought on board. + +The following is the account which John Lander gave, of the events +which fell under his notice at Brass Town, and his proceedings during +the time that he was separated from his brother. + +Wednesday, November 17th. "This morning, my brother, attended by one +of our men, quitted this town with King Boy and suite, leaving the +remainder of the party and myself behind, as hostages for the +fulfilment of the conditions, which we entered into with him in the +Eboe country. For myself, though greatly chagrined at this unforeseen +arrangement, I could not from my heart, altogether condemn the framer +of it; for it is quite natural to suppose that a savage should +distrust the promises of Europeans, when he himself is at all times +guilty of breach of faith and trust, not only in his trading +transactions with foreigners, but likewise in familiar intercourse +with his own people. Forday is the cause of it, and he displays all +the artifice, chicanery, and low cunning of a crafty and corrupt +mind. Therefore, after a moment's reflection, I was not much +surprised at the step which King Boy has taken, nor can I be very +angry with him, and I am resolved to await with composure his return, +and consequently my release from this miserable place, though I have +begun to consider with seriousness, what will become of us, in the +event of Lake's refusal to honour the bill which we have sent him. +Besides, I am rather uneasy on our people's account, for during these +two or three days past, they have had scarcely any thing to eat, and +we are now left entirely destitute, nor do I know where to obtain +relief. The Damaggoo people are with us likewise, and they are +interested in my brother's return, equally as much as myself. Instead +of being our guides and protectors, these poor creatures have shared +in our calamity; their little all has either been lost or stolen, or +else expended in provisions, and like us, they are reduced to great +distress and wretchedness. They will remain here, in order to receive +the few things which we have promised them and their chief, but +should Lake object to part with his goods, we shall give them a note +to the master of any English vessel at Bonny, whither they are +destined to go, requesting him to pay the poor strangers their +demands. + +"After a good deal of solicitation and importunity, we received this +morning four small yams from the wives of King Boy, who informed us +that the same number of yams will be given us daily. Our people +having nothing else to eat, made a kind of broth with this vegetable; +at first it was, of course, a most insipid mess, but with the +addition of a little salt, it is rendered more palatable. We sent to +King Forday in the afternoon, for a few plantains, or any thing that +could be eaten, but the gloomy old savage shook his head, folded his +arms, and refused. + +"Nothing could exceed my regret and consternation on the perusal of +the letter which I received from my brother, and somehow, I almost +dreaded to meet with King Boy. Well knowing how much it would +influence his behaviour towards us, we had been careful to represent +to that individual, the thanks and cheering which he would receive +from our countrymen, the moment he should take us on board the +English brig, that he would be favoured and caressed beyond measure, +and receive plenty of beef, bread, and rum. His face used to shine +with delight on anticipating so luxurious a treat, and he had +uniformly been in a better humour, after listening to these promises +of ours, than any thing else could have made him. The contrast +between his actual reception on board Lake's ship, to that which his +own fancy and our repeated assurances had taught him to expect, was +too dreadful to think on even for a moment, and for this reason, as +much as any other, I looked forward with something of apprehension +and anxiety to an interview with this savage, because I knew, that +after the cutting disappointment which he had experienced, he would +be under the influence of strongly excited feelings, and stormy +passions, over which he exercises no control. I was convinced too, +that the whole weight of his resentment, and the fury of his rage, +would fall upon me, for I am completely in his power. + +"The interesting moment at length arrived. We heard King Boy +quarrelling with his women, and afterwards walking through their +apartments towards ours, muttering as he went along. He entered it, +and stood still; I was reposing, as I usually do for the greater part +of the day, upon a mat which is placed on the seat of wet clay, but +on perceiving him, I lifted my head without arising, and reclined it +on my hand. He looked fixedly upon me, and I returned his glance with +the same unshrinking steadfastness. But his dark eye was flashing +with anger, whilst his upturned lip, which exposed his white teeth, +quivered with passion. No face in the world could convey more +forcibly to the mind the feeling of contempt and bitter scorn, than +the distorted one before me. It was dreadfully expressive, drawing up +the left angle of his mouth in a parallel with his eyes, he broke +silence, with a sneering, long-drawn 'Eh!' and almost choked with +rage, he cursed me; and in a tone and manner, which it is infinitely +out of my power to describe, he spoke to the following effect: 'You +are thief, man; English captain, no will! You assured me, when I took +you from the Eboe country, that he would be overjoyed to see me, and +give me plenty of beef and rum; I received from him neither the one +nor the other. Eh! English captain, no will! I gave a quantity of +goods to free you from the slavery of Obie; I took you into my own +canoe; you were hungry, and I gave you yam and fish; you were almost +naked, I was sorry to see you so, because you were white men and +strangers, and I gave each of you a red cap and a silk handkerchief; +but you are no good, you are thief, man. Eh! English captain, no +will; he no will. You also told me your countrymen would do this +(taking off his cap, and flourishing it in circles over his head,) +and cry hurra! hurra! on receiving me on board their vessel; you +promised my wife a necklace, and my father, four bars. But eh! +English captain, no will! he tell me he no will: yes, I will satisfy +your hunger with plenty more of my fish and yams, and your thirst I +will quench with rum and palm wine. Eh! you thief man, you are no +good, English captain, no will!' He then stamped on the ground, and +gnashing at me with his teeth like a dog, he cursed me again and +again. + +"It is true I did not feel perfectly easy at this severe rebuke, and +under such taunting reproaches; but I refrained from giving utterance +to a single thought till after he had concluded his abuse and +anathematizing. Had a spirited person been in my situation, he might +have knocked him down, and might have had his head taken off for his +pains, but as for me, all such kind of spirit is gone out of me +entirely. Besides we had, though unintentionally, deceived King Boy, +and I also bore in mind the kindness which he had done us, in +ransoming us from a state of slavery. Most of what he had asserted +was most unquestionably true, and in some measure, I was deserving +his severest reprehension and displeasure. + +"The fury of Boy having been somewhat appeased by my silence and +submission, as well as by his own extraordinary and violent +agitation, I ventured mildly to assure him, on the strength of my +brother's letter, that his suspicions were entirely groundless, that +Mr. Lake had certainly a _will_ or inclination to enter into +arrangements with him for the payment of his just demands, and that +when he should convey our people and myself to the Thomas, every +thing would be settled to his complete satisfaction. He half +believed, half mistrusted my words, and shortly afterwards quitted +the apartment, threatening, however, that we should not leave Brass +till it suited his own pleasure and convenience. + +"It is really a most humiliating reflection, that we are reduced to +the most contemptible subterfuges of deceit and falsehood, in order +to carry a point which might have been easily gained by +straightforward integrity. But the conduct of Lake has left us no +alternative, and whatever my opinion of that individual may be, he +surely must be destitute of all those manly characteristics of a +British seaman, as well as of the more generous feelings of our +common nature, to be guilty, on a sick bed, of an action which might, +for aught he knew or cared, produce the most serious consequences to +his unfortunate countrymen in a savage land, by exposing them to the +wretchedness of want, and the miseries of slavery, to mockery, +ill-usage, contempt, and scorn, and even to death itself. + +"November 20th. King Boy has not visited us to-day, though we have +received the customary allowance of four yams from his women. In +addition to which, Adizzetta made us a present of half a dozen this +morning, as an acknowledgment for the benefit she had derived from a +dose of laudanum, which I gave her last night, for the purpose of +removing pain from the lower regions of the stomach, a complaint by +which she says she is occasionally visited. + +"This morning, November 21st, I dismissed the poor Damaggoo people, +with a note to either of the English vessels lying in the Bonny +river, requesting him to give the bearer three barrels of gunpowder, +and a few muskets, On the faith of being paid for the same by the +British government. They left Brass in their own canoe, quite +dejected and out of heart, and Antonio, the young man who volunteered +to accompany us from his majesty's brig, Clinker, at Badagry, went +along with them, on his return to his country, from which he has been +absent two or three years. + +"The following day, one or two crafty little urchins, who are slaves +to King Boy, brought us a few plantains as a gift. They had been +engaged in pilfering tobacco leaves from an adjoining apartment, to +which our people were witnesses, and the juvenile depredators, +fearing the consequences of a disclosure, bribed them to secrecy in +the manner already mentioned. Boy's women have also been guilty, +during the temporary absence of their lord and master, of stealing a +quantity of rum from the store room, and distributing it amongst +their friends and acquaintance, and they have resorted to the same +plan as the boys, to prevent the exposure, which they dreaded. One of +them, who acts as a duenna, is the favourite and confidante of Boy, +and she wears a bunch of keys round her neck in token of her +authority. She has likewise the care of all her master's effects, and +as a further mark of distinction, she is allowed the privilege of +using a walking-stick with a knob at the end, which is her constant +companion. This woman is exceedingly good-natured, and indulges our +men with a glass or two of rum every day. + +"Last evening, King Boy stripped to the skin, and having his body +most hideously marked, ran about the town like a maniac with a spear +in his hand, calling loudly on _Dju dju_, and uttering a wild, +frantic cry at every corner. It appears that one of his father's +wives had been strongly suspected of adulterous intercourse with a +free man residing in the town, and that this strange means was +adopted, in pursuance of an ancient custom, to apprize the +inhabitants publicly of the circumstance, and implore the counsel and +assistance of the god at the examination of the parties. This morning +the male aggressor was found dead, having swallowed poison, it is +believed, to avoid a worse kind of death, and the priest declaring +his opinion of the guilt of the surviving party, she was immediately +sentenced to be drowned. This afternoon, the ill-fated woman was tied +hand and foot, and conveyed in a canoe to the main body of the river, +into which she was thrown without hesitation, a weight of some kind +having been fastened to her feet for the purpose of sinking her. She +met her death with incredible firmness and resolution. The +superstitious people believe, that had the deceased been innocent of +the crime laid to her charge, their god would have saved her life, +even after she had been flung into the river; but because she had +perished, her guilt was unquestionably attested. The mother of the +deceased is not allowed to display any signs of sorrow or sadness at +the untimely death of her daughter, for were she to do so, the same +dreadful punishment would be inflicted upon her, 'For,' say the Brass +people, 'if the parent should mourn or weep over the fate of a child +guilty of so heinous a crime, we should pronounce her instantly to be +as criminal as her daughter, and to have tolerated her offence. But +if, on the contrary, she betrays no maternal tenderness, nor bewail +her bereavement in tears and groans, we should then conclude her to +be entirely ignorant of the whole transaction; she would then give a +tacit acknowledgment to the justice of the sentence, and rejoice to +be rid of an object that would only entail disgrace on her as long as +she lived. + +"Our people are become heartily tired of their situation, and +impatient to be gone; they were regaled with an extra quantity of rum +last evening, by their female friend, the duenna; when their +grievances appearing to them in a more grievous light than ever, they +had the courage to go in a body to King Boy, to demand an explanation +of his intentions towards them. They told him, indignantly, either to +convey them to the English brig, or sell them for slaves to the +Spaniards, 'For,' say they, 'we would rather lose our liberty, than +be kept here to die of hunger.' Boy returned them an equivocating +answer, but treated them much less roughly than I had reason to +anticipate. Afterwards, I went myself to the same individual, and +with a similar motive, but for some time I had no opportunity of +conversing with him. It is a kind of holiday here, and most of the +Brass people, with their chiefs, are merry with intoxication. As well +as I can understand, during the earlier part of the day they were +engaged in a solemn, religious observance, and since then King Forday +has publicly abdicated in favour of Boy, who is his eldest son. I +discovered those individuals in a court annexed to the habitation of +the former, surrounded by a great number of individuals with bottles, +glasses, and decanters at their feet; they were all in a state of +drunkenness, more or less; and all had their faces and bodies chalked +over in rude and various characters. Forday, alone, sat in a chair, +Boy was at his side, and the others, amongst whom was our friend Gun +and a drummer, were sitting around on blocks of wood, and on the +trunk of a fallen tree. The chairman delivered a long oration, but he +was too tipsy, and perhaps too full of days to speak with grace, +animation, or power; therefore his eloquence was not very persuasive, +and his nodding hearers, overcome with drowsiness, listened to him +with scarcely any attention. They smiled, however, and laughed +occasionally, but I could not find why they did so; I don't think +they themselves could tell. The old chief wore an English superfine +beaver hat, and an old jacket, that once belonged to a private +soldier, but the latter was so small that he was able only to thrust +an arm into one of the sleeves, the other part of the jacket being +thrown upon his left shoulder. These, with the addition of a cotton +handkerchief, which was tied round his waist, were his only apparel. +By far the most showy and conspicuous object in the yard, was an +immense umbrella, made of figured cotton of different patterns, with +a deep fringe of coloured worsted, which was stuck into the ground. +But even this was tattered and torn, and dirty withal, having been in +Forday's possession for many years, and it is only used on public and +sacred occasions. I had been sitting amongst the revellers till the +speaker had finished his harangue, when I embraced the opportunity, +as they were about to separate, of entreating King Boy to hasten our +departure for the vessel. He was highly excited and elated with +liquor, and being in excellent temper, he promised to take us +to-morrow. + +"It required little time on the following day, to take leave of a few +friends we have at Brass, and we quitted the town not only without +regret, but with emotions of peculiar pleasure. King Boy, with three +of his women, and his suite in a large canoe, and our people and +myself in a smaller one. Adizzetta would gladly have accompanied her +husband to the English vessel, for her desire to see it was naturally +excessive; but she was forbidden by old Forday, who expressed some +squeamishness about the matter, or rather he was jealous that on her +return to her father's house in the Eboe country, she would give too +high and favourable an opinion of it to her friends, which might in +the end produce consequences highly prejudicial to his interests. + +"We stopped awhile at a little fishing village, at no great distance +from Brass, where we procured a few fish, and abundance of young +cocoa nuts, the milk of which was sweet and refreshing. Continuing +our journey on streams and rivulets intricately winding through +mangroves and brambles, we entered the main body of the river in time +to see the sun setting behind a glorious sky, directly before us. We +were evidently near the sea, because the water was perfectly salt, +and we scented also the cool and bracing sea breeze, with feelings of +satisfaction and rapture. However, the wind became too stormy for our +fragile canoe; the waves leaped into it over the bow, and several +times we were in danger of being swamped. Our companion was far +before us, and out of sight, so that, for the moment, there was no +probability of receiving assistance, or of lightening the canoe, but, +happily, in a little while we did not require it, for the violence of +the wind abating with the disappearance of the sun, we were enabled +to continue on our way without apprehension. About nine o'clock in +the evening, we overtook the large canoe and the crews, both having +partaken of a slight refreshment of fish and plantain together, we +passed the _Second Brass River_, which was to the left of us, in +company. Here it might have been somewhat more than half a mile in +breadth, and though it was dangerously rough for a canoe, with great +precaution we reached the opposite side in safety. From thence, we +could perceive in the distance, the long wished for Atlantic, with +the moonbeams reposing in peaceful beauty on its surface, and could +also hear the sea breaking, and roaring over the sandy bar, which +stretches across the mouth of the river. The solemn voice of Ocean +never sounded more melodiously in my ear, than it did at this moment. +O it was enchanting as the harp of David! Passing along by the left +bank, we presently entered the First Brass River, which is the _Nun_ +of Europeans, where at midnight we could faintly distinguish the +masts and rigging of the English brig in the dusky light, which +appeared like a dark and fagged cloud above the horizon. To me, +however, no sight could be more charming. It was beautiful as the +gates of Paradise, and my heart fluttered with unspeakable delight, +as we landed in silence on the beach opposite the brig, near a few +straggling huts, to wait impatiently the dawn of to-morrow. + +"The morning of the 24th was a happy one, for it restored me to the +society of my brother, and of my countrymen. The baneful effects of +the climate are strongly impressed upon the countenances of the +latter, who, instead of their natural healthy hue, have a pale, +dejected, and sickly appearance, which is quite distressing to +witness. However, the crew of the Spanish schooner look infinitely +more wretched; they have little else but their original forms +remaining; they crawl about like beings under a curse they are mere +shadows or phantoms of men, looking round for their burying place. No +spectacle can be more humiliating to man's pride than this; nothing +can give him a more degrading sense of his own nothingness. It is +very much to be wondered at why Europeans, and Englishmen in +particular, persevere in sending their fellow creatures to this +Aceldama, or Golgotha, as the African coast is sometimes not +inappropriately called; they might as well bury them at once at home, +and it is pleasanter far to die there; but interest, and the lust of +gain, like Aaron's rod, seem to swallow up every other consideration." + + + +CHAPTER XLII + +During the time that the canoe was coming from the shore to the +vessel, Richard Lander had stationed himself by the cannon; it was +the only one on board, but it had been loaded as Lake had directed, +and pointed to the gangway of the brig, where the Brass people were +obliged to come. The muskets were all ready, lying concealed, where +Lake had directed them to be placed, and he repeated the same orders +that he had given on the preceding day, respecting the part that the +Landers' people were to take in the business. + +Lake received John Lander very civilly, but immediately expressed his +determination to dismiss Boy without giving him a single article, and +to make the best of his way out of the river. A short time after the +arrival of John Lander, a canoe arrived at the beach, with Mr. +Spittle, the mate of the brig, as prisoner, who, immediately sent a +note off to the captain, informing him that the price of his +liberation was the sum demanded for the pilotage of the vessel over +the bar of the river. He said further, that he was strictly guarded, +but that, notwithstanding this, he did not despair of making his +escape, if Lake could wait a little for him. The vessel had been +brought into the river about three months before, but Lake would +never pay the pilotage, and all he did was to send Mr. Spittle a +little bread and beef. The amount demanded was about fifty pounds +worth of goods, which it was quite out of the question that Lake +would ever pay. + +Meanwhile King Boy, full of gloomy forebodings, had been lingering +about the deck. He had evidently foresight enough to suspect what was +to take place, and he appeared troubled and uneasy, and bewildered in +thought. The poor fellow was quite an altered person; his habitual +haughtiness had entirely forsaken him, and given place to a cringing +and humble demeanor. A plate of meat was presented to him, of which +he ate sparingly, and showed clearly that he was thinking more of his +promised goods, than his appetite, and a quantity of rum that was +given to him was drunk carelessly, and without affording any apparent +satisfaction. + +Knowing how things were likely to terminate, the Landers endeavoured +to get Boy into a good humour, by telling him that he should +certainly have his goods some time or other; but it was all to no +purpose; the attempt was a complete failure; the present was the only +time in his mind. The Landers really pitied him, and were grieved to +think that their promises could not be fulfilled. How gladly would +they have made any personal sacrifice, rather than thus break their +word; for although they had been half starved in his hands, yet they +felt themselves indebted to him for having taken them from the Eboe +people, and bringing them to the vessel. Richard Lander rummaged over +the few things which had been left them from their disaster at +Kirree, and found to his surprise, five silver bracelets wrapped up +in a piece of flannel. He was not aware of having these things, but +he immediately offered them to him, along with a native sword, which +being a very great curiosity, they had brought with them from +Yarriba, with the intention of taking it to England. Boy accepted of +them, and John Lander then offered him his watch, for which he had a +great regard, as it was the gift of one of his earliest and best +friends. This was refused with disdain, for Boy knew not its value, +and calling one of his men to look at what, he said, the Landers +wished to impose on him in lieu of his bars, both of them, with a +significant groan, turned away from the Landers with scorn and +indignation, nor would they speak to them or even look at them again. +The mortification of the Landers was nearly now complete, but they +were helpless, and the fault was not with them. + +Boy now ventured to approach Captain Lake, on the quarter deck, and +with an anxious petitioning countenance, asked for the goods, which +had been promised him. Prepared for the desperate game he was about +to play, it was the object of Lake to gain as much time as possible, +that he might get his vessel under way, before he came to an open +rupture. Therefore, he pretended to be busy in writing, and desired +Boy to wait a moment. Becoming impatient with delay, Boy repeated his +demand a second and a third time: "Give me my bars." "I NO WILL," +said Lake, in a voice of thunder, which could hardly have been +expected from a frame so emaciated as his. "I no will, I tell you; I +won't give you a--flint. Give me my mate, you black rascal, or I will +bring a thousand men of war here in a day or two; they shall come and +burn down your towns, and kill every one of you; bring me my mate." +Terrified by the demeanor of Lake, and the threats and oaths he made +use of, poor King Boy suddenly retreated, and seeing men going aloft +to loosen the sails, apprehensive of being carried off to sea, he +quickly disappeared from the deck of the brig, and was soon observed +making his way on shore in his canoe, with the rest of his people; +this was the last they saw of him. In a few minutes from the time Boy +had left the vessel, the mate, Mr. Spittle, was sent off in a canoe, +so terrified were the Brass people that a man of war would come, and +put Lake's threats into execution. + +At ten in the morning the vessel was got under way, and they dropped +down the river. At noon the breeze died away, and they were obliged +to let go an anchor to prevent their drifting on the western +breakers, at the mouth of the river. A few minutes more would have +been fatal to them, and the vessel was fortunately stopped, although +the depth of water where she lay, was only five fathoms. The rollers, +as the large high waves are called, which come into the river over +the bar, were so high, that they sometimes passed nearly over the bow +of the vessel, and caused her to ride very uneasily by her anchor. +They had been obliged to anchor immediately abreast of the Pilot's +town, and expected every moment that they should be fired at from the +battery. Time was of the greatest importance to them; they had made +Boy their enemy, and expected before they could get out of the river, +he would summon his people and make an attack upon them, whilst their +whole party amounted only to twenty men, two thirds of whom were +Africans. The pilot also, whom Lake had offended so much, was known +to be a bold and treacherous ruffian. He was the same person, who +steered the brig Susan among the breakers, by which that vessel +narrowly escaped destruction, with the loss of her windlass, and an +anchor and cable. The fellow had done this, merely with the hope of +obtaining a part of the wreck, as it drifted on shore. Another +vessel, a Liverpool oil trader, was actually lost on the bar, by the +treachery of the same individual, who having effected his purpose, by +placing her in a situation, from which she could not escape, jumped +overboard and swam to the canoe, which was at a short distance. The +treatment of the survivors of this wreck is shocking to relate; they +were actually stripped of their clothes, and allowed to die of +hunger. It would be an endless task to enumerate all the misdeeds, +that are laid to this fellow's charge, which have no doubt lost +nothing by report, but after making all reasonable allowances for +exaggeration, his character appears in a most revolting light, and +the fact of his running these vessels on the bar, proves him to be a +desperate and consummate villain. This same fellow is infinitely more +artful and intelligent than any of his countrymen, and is one of the +handsomest black men that the Landers had seen. + +Not long after they had dropped the anchor, they observed the pilot, +with the help of the glass, walking on the beach, and watching them +occasionally. A multitude of half-naked, suspicious-looking fellows, +were likewise straggling along the shore, while others were seen +emerging from a grove of cocoa trees, and the thick bushes near it. +These men were all armed, chiefly with muskets, and they subsequently +assembled in detached groups to the number of several hundreds, and +appeared to be consulting about attacking the vessel. Nothing less +than this, and to be fired at from the battery, was now expected by +them, and there was no doubt that the strength and loftiness of the +brig only deterred them from so doing. The same people were hovering +on the beach till very late in the evening, when they dispersed; many +of them could be seen even at midnight, so that they were obliged to +keep a good look-out till the morning. + +During the night, the vessel rode very uneasily, in consequence of +the long heavy waves which set in from the bar; these are technically +called by sailors _ground swell_, being different from the waves +which are raised while the wind blows; the latter generally break at +the top, while the former are quite smooth, and roll with great +impetuosity in constant succession, forming a deep furrow between +them, which, with the force of the wave, is very dangerous to vessels +at anchor. + +Their motions were still closely watched by the natives. About eleven +they got under way, but were obliged to anchor again in the +afternoon, as the water was not deep enough for the vessel to pass +over the bar. The mate sounded the bar again, and placed a buoy as a +mark for the vessel to pass over in the deepest water. + +On the following morning, the wind favouring them, they made another +attempt at getting out of the river. They had already made some +progress, when the wind again died away, and the current setting them +rapidly over to the eastern breakers, they were obliged to let go an +anchor to save them from destruction. They could see nothing of the +buoy, and no doubt was entertained that it was washed away by the +current. Their anchorage was in three and a half fathom water, and +the ground swell, which then set in, heaved the vessel up and down in +such a frightful manner, that they expected every moment to see the +chain cable break. As soon as they dropped their anchor, the tide +rushed past the vessel at the rate of eight miles an hour. After the +ebb tide had ceased running, the swell gradually subsided, and the +vessel rode easily. + +The mate was again sent to sound the bar, and in about three hours +afterwards, returned with the information that two fathoms and three +quarters was the deepest water he could find. The bar extended across +the mouth of the river in the form of a crescent, leaving a very +narrow and shallow entrance for vessels in the middle, which was +generally concealed by the surf and foam of the adjacent breakers. +When the wind is light and the tide high, and the surface of the +water smooth, excepting in a few places, the bar is then most +dangerous. They observed several fires made by the natives on the +beach, which were supposed to be signals for them to return. + +They passed a restless and most unpleasant night. The captain and the +people were much alarmed for the safety of the brig. The heavy ground +swell, which set in, increased by the strength of the tide, caused +her to pitch and labour so hard, that a man was placed to watch the +cable, and give notice the moment it _complained_, a technical +expression, which meant, the moment it gave signs of breaking. +Daylight had scarcely dawned, when the pall of the windlass broke. +The purpose of this was to prevent the windlass from turning round on +its axis against any strain to which it might be subjected, and +consequently it was no sooner broken, than the windlass flew round +with incredible velocity, having nothing to resist the strain of the +cable, which was passed round it. The chain cable ran out so swiftly, +that in half a minute the windlass was broken to atoms. The two +Landers with their people rendered all the assistance in their power +to prevent the ship from drifting. They succeeded in fastening the +cable to ring bolts in the deck, until they got sufficient of it +clear to go round the capstan, which they had no sooner effected, +than the ring bolts were fairly drawn out of the deck by the strain +on the cable. + +About eight in the evening, a terrific wave, called by sailors a +_sea_, struck the vessel with tremendous force, and broke the chain +cable. "The cable is gone," shouted a voice, and the next instant the +captain cried out in a firm, collected tone, "Cut away the kedge," +which was promptly obeyed, and the vessel was again stopped from +drifting among the breakers. The man who had been stationed to look +out on the cable, came running aft on deck, as soon as he had given +notice of the danger, calling out that all was over. "Good God!" was +the passionate exclamation of every one, and a slight confusion +ensued. But the captain was prepared for the worst, he gave his +orders with firmness, and behaved with promptness and intrepidity. + +"We were riding by the kedge, a small anchor, which, however, was the +only one left us, and on which the safety of the brig now depended. +The breakers were close under our stern, and this was not expected to +hold ten minutes; it was a forlorn hope, every eye was fixed on the +raging surf, and our hearts thrilled with agitation, expecting every +moment that the vessel would be dashed in pieces. A few long and +awful minutes were passed in this state, which left an indelible +impression on our minds. Never," continues Richard Lander, "shall I +forget the chief mate saying to me, 'Now, sir, every one for himself, +a few minutes will be the last with us.' The tumultuous sea was +raging in mountainous waves close by us, their foam dashing against +the sides of the brig, which was only prevented from being carried +among them by a weak anchor and cable. The natives, from whom they +could expect no favour, were busy on shore making large fires, and +other signals, for us to desert the brig and land at certain places, +expecting, no doubt, every moment to see her a prey to the waves, and +those who escaped their fury, to fall into their hands. Wretched +resource! the sea would have been far more merciful than they." + +Such was their perilous situation, when a fine sea breeze set in, +which literally saved them from destruction. The sails were loosened +to relieve the anchor from the strain of the vessel, and she rode out +the ebb tide without drifting. At ten a.m. the tide had nearly ceased +running out, and the fury of the sea rather abated, but it was quite +impossible that the brig could ride out another ebb tide where she +lay, with the kedge anchor alone to hold her; the only chance left +them, therefore, was to get to sea, and the captain determined on +crossing the bar, although there appeared to be little chance of +success. At half-past ten a.m. he manned the boat with two of +Lander's men, and two Kroomen belonging to the brig, and sent them to +tow while the anchor was got on board. This had no sooner been done +than the wind fell light, and instead of drifting over to the western +breakers as on the two preceding days, the brig was now set towards +those on the eastern side, and again they had a narrow escape. With +the assistance of the boat and good management, they at length passed +clear over the bar on the edge of the breakers, in a depth of quarter +less three fathoms, and made sail to the eastward. Their troubles +were now at an end; by the protection of a merciful Providence, they +had escaped dangers, the very thoughts of which had filled them with +horror, and with a grateful heart and tears of joy for all his +mercies, they offered up a silent prayer of thanks for their +deliverance. + +The bar extends about four or five miles from the mouth of the river, +in a southerly direction, but is by no means known. This river is by +far the best place on the whole coast, at which small vessels may +procure oil, as it is the shortest distance from the Eboe country, +where the best palm oil is to be had in any quantity. The Eboe oil is +pronounced to be superior to that of any other part of the country, +which is brought to the coast. The river is not much frequented, +owing probably to its being unknown, and the difficulty of crossing +the bar; for not more than five English vessels have been known to +come to it, two of which are stated to have been lost, and a third to +have struck on the bar, but being a new strong vessel, she beat over +into deep water. The Landers recommend any master going to the river +for palm oil, to provide himself with two good strong six-oared boats +for towing, and a double complement of Kroomen. The expense of ten or +twelve Kroomen would be trifling, as they only require a few yams and +a little palm oil to eat, and they are always ready to perform any +laborious work which may be required of them. If masters of vessels +coming to the river would send a boat before to sound, and have two +good six-oared boats towing, it is supposed there would be no danger +of any being lost, as has been the case with some, from being weakly +manned. Vessels are got under way with a fine breeze, and when they +arrive in the most dangerous part, it dies away, and if there be no +boats ready for towing, nothing can save them from destruction. + +Vessels going out of the river are usually recommended to keep as +near as possible to the western breakers, but this plan is supposed +to be very dangerous, unless there be sufficient wind to keep command +of them. When a vessel leaves her anchorage in the river, she will be +set by the current over to the western breakers, and when half way to +the bar, will be set over to the eastern, as the Landers were. The +river would be the safest in the month of December or January, as the +rains in the interior would then be over, and all the extra water +will have been discharged, which it has received in the extent of +country through which it has run. When no English vessels are in the +river, the people of Bonny come and purchase the palm oil from the +Brass people, probably for the purpose of supplying the ships in +their river, as well as for their own uses. + +On the morning of November 28th, they discovered a strange vessel on +their starboard beam, which directly made sail in chase of them. +After firing a gun to make them stop, or to bring them to, as the +sailors expressed themselves, she sent a boat on board of the brig, +and we found her to be the Black Joke, tender to the British +commodore's ship. The Landers reported themselves to the lieutenant +commanding her, under the hope of her taking them on board of his +vessel and landing them at Accra, from whence they thought it would +be easy to find their way by one of his majesty's ships to Ascension +or St. Helena, from either of which places an opportunity would offer +for them to get home without delay. The orders, however, of the +lieutenant were to run down the coast as far as the Congo, and he +recommended them to go to Fernando Po, where they would find every +assistance, and a vessel about to sail soon for England. Having +obtained from them the intelligence that the Spanish slaver was lying +in the Nun River ready to sail, he immediately altered his course for +that river, for the purpose of capturing her. Captain Lake agreed to +land them in his boat at Fernando Po, as he passed the island on his +way to the River Camaroons, and they again made sail to the westward. + +They were two days in making their passage to Fernando Po, and on the +morning of December 1st, to their great satisfaction, they discovered +the island. They were glad to get out of the Thomas, for the +unfeeling commander, notwithstanding that Lander's men had rendered +him every service in getting his brig out of the river, and had done +every thing required of them, afterwards employed every means he +could think of to annoy them, and to make them uncomfortable, while +they were with him. At night, while the people were sleeping, he +would make his men draw water, and throw it over them, for mere +amusement. There are many commanders as bad as he is on the coast, +who seem to vie with each other in acts of cruelty and oppression. +The captain of the palm oil brig Elizabeth, now in the Calebar River, +actually whitewashed his crew from head to foot, while they were sick +with fever, and unable to protect themselves; his cook suffered so +much in the operation, that the lime totally deprived him of the +sight of one of his eyes, and rendered the other of little service to +him. + +In the afternoon they were happily landed at Clarence Cove, in the +island of Fernando Po, where they were most kindly received by Mr. +Becroft, the acting superintendent. This worthy gentleman readily +supplied them with changes of linen, and every thing they stood in +need of, besides doing all he could to make them comfortable. The +kindness and hospitality they received from him and Dr. Crichton in +particular, made a grateful impression on the hearts of the Landers. + +Accustomed as they had been during the last month, to the monotonous +sameness of a low flat country, the banks of the river covered with +mangroves overhanging the water, and in many parts, in consequence of +its extraordinary height, apparently growing out of it; the lofty +summit of Fernando Po, and the still loftier mountains of the +Camaroons, on the distant mainland, presented a sublime and +magnificent appearance. The highest mountain of the Camaroons, is a +striking feature on this part of the coast, being more than thirteen +thousand feet high. The land in its vicinity is low and flat, which +renders the appearance of this mountain still more imposing, as it +towers majestically over the surrounding country in solitary +grandeur. It divides the embouchures of the spacious rivers Old +Calebar and Del Rey on the west, from the equally important one of +the Cameroons on the east. The island of Fernando is detached about +twenty miles from the coast, and appeared to them, when they first +saw it, in two lofty peaks connected by a high ridge of land. The +northern peak is higher than the other, which is situated in the +southern part of the island, and rises gradually from the sea to the +height of ten thousand seven hundred feet. In clear weather the +island can be seen at the distance of more than a hundred miles; but +this is not always the case, as the summit is most frequently +concealed by clouds and fogs, which are common at certain seasons of +the year. + +As they approached the island in fine weather, and with a moderate +wind, they had ample time to observe it. The shore is formed mostly +of a dark coloured rock, and covered with trees which reach down to +the water's edge. The whole of the lower part of the island is +covered with fine forest trees of various descriptions, extending +about three fourths up the sides of the mountain, where they became +thinly scattered, stinted in their growth, and interspersed with low +bushes and a brown dry grass. In various parts, patches of cultivated +ground may be seen along with the huts of the natives, presenting, +with the luxuriant foliage of the trees, a mass of verdure in the +most flourishing condition. Nature has here done her utmost; the +whole appearance of the island is of the most beautiful description, +and fully justifies its title to the name of _Ilha Formosa_, +signifying, "beautiful island," which it first received. As they +approached it still nearer, the stupendous precipices, and wide +fissures near the summit of the principal mountain, became more +distinct, by the contrast between their dark recesses and the lights +on the projecting rocks, until by the proximity of the observers to +the shore, the whole became concealed behind the lesser height next +to the sea. + +Until the year 1827, the island lay forsaken and neglected in its +primitive condition, neither the Portuguese nor Spaniards having +thought it worth their consideration. At length, the attention of the +British government was directed to it, in consequence of its +favourable position for putting a stop to the slave trade in that +quarter of Africa. Situated within a few hours sail of the coast, in +the immediate vicinity of those rivers, commencing with the Camaroons +on the east, and extending along the whole of the Gold Coast, where +the principal outlets of this unlawful traffic are found, Fernando Po +presented advantages, which were sufficient to authorize a settlement +being formed on it, and Captain W. Owen sailed from England for that +purpose, in his majesty's ship Eden, with the appointment of +governor, and with Commander Harrison under his orders. Captain Owen +had been previously employed on an extensive and difficult survey of +the coasts of Africa, both in the Atlantic and Indian Oceans, in +which the shores of this island were included, and therefore, having +visited it before, he was no stranger either to its nature and +resources, or to the climate in which it is situated. Previously to +the arrival of Captain Owen, the island had been occasionally visited +by some of the ships on the African station, for the purpose of +obtaining supplies of vegetables and water, and perhaps now and then +a Liverpool trader would be seen there waiting for palm oil, or +recovering the health of her crew from fevers obtained in the rivers +on the coast. As the natives reside some distance in the interior, +the arrival of a ship of war at the island, was announced to them by +the discharge of a cannon on board, which was sufficient to bring +them to the sea side, with whatever vegetables, poultry, and other +articles they might wish to sell. The articles mostly demanded by +them in return, were pieces of iron-hoop, knives, and nails. At +first, a piece of iron-hoop about six inches long, would purchase a +pair of fowls or four yams, so great was the value which the natives +attached to iron. + +The business of forming a new settlement, is a species of service +that requires the exercise of certain qualities of the mind, which it +is not the good fortune of every one to possess. In addition to the +pernicious effects of the climate on European constitutions, there +were people on the island, who, although they might be unable to +offer any serious impediment to the progress of the settlement, it +was necessary to conciliate than treat them with hostility, and for +this, no one could have been better calculated than Captain Owen. +Whatever may have induced him to relinquish the appointment of +governor, no measures for gaining the friendship of the natives, and +thereby securing their good will towards the colony, could have been +better than those which he adopted, and the chiefs even now +frequently mention his name. + +The part selected as the site of the proposed settlement, was on the +northern side of the island on the borders of a small cove, formed by +a narrow neck of land projecting out from the shore on the eastern +side of it. This was named "Point William," and the cove, together +with the whole establishment was called "Clarence," after his most +gracious majesty, who was then lord high admiral of Great Britain. +Point Adelaide with two small islets off it, connected by a sand +bank, forms the western boundary of the cove, and is distant about +half a mile from Point William. Goderich Bay lies to the east, and +Cockburn Cove to the west of Clarence Cove. Under the able direction +of Captain Owen, the various buildings were planned, while the +operation of clearing the ground was going forward. A flag staff, +which formerly stood on the extremity of Point William, was removed +to the governor's house; and a large commodious building, with a few +solitary palm trees near it, is the first object which attracts +attention. This building was assigned as the hospital, and was +judiciously situated here, as it was the most exposed to the sea +breeze, and stood completely isolated from the rest of the +settlement, both which precautions were of no small importance in the +climate of Fernando Po. A small, round-topped building at a short +distance from the hospital, with a few huts near it, and surrounded +by stakes, was formerly the magazine, and near it was another large +building, used as the marine barracks. The officers' quarters, and +those of the African corps, were next in succession, and announced +their military character by a piece of artillery mounted close to +them, and pointed towards the cove. The governor's house, a large, +spacious building, stands eminently conspicuous, on the precipice of +the shore beneath, which is the landing place. From hence, a +fatiguing walk leads immediately to it, up an ascent of about one +hundred feet. A battery of seven guns were landed for this purpose +from his majesty's ship, Esk, which were placed in a very commanding +situation in front of the governor's house. The house of the mixed +commission for the adjudication of captured slave vessels, stands in +an unfinished state, at a short distance from the governor's. +Various other buildings occupy Point William, which are diversified +by a few trees, that give it a pleasing and picturesque appearance +from the sea. This remark is generally made by those who first visit +Clarence Cove, and all are pleased on first seeing it. In addition to +the buildings just enumerated, Mr. Lloyd has a tolerably good house, +and the surgeon of the colony, who is a naval officer, has also one +assigned for his residence. The Kroomen and free negroes, who amount +to about two thousand in number, have a collection of small, neat +huts, at a short distance from government house, which are +constructed of wood, and thatched with palm leaves. They are very +careful of them, and have a small garden in the front as well as +behind, in which they cultivate Indian corn, bananas, peppers, &c. +These huts form two small streets, but they are daily receiving +additions from new comers. + +The work of clearing the ground is constantly going forward and is +performed by the free negroes, the African troops, and the Kroomen. +The principal disease amongst these people, which arises from +accidents in cutting down the trees, is ulcerated legs, and sixteen +of them were in the hospital from this cause alone. The Kroomen are a +particular race of people, differing entirely from the other African +tribes. They inhabit a country called Sotta Krou, on the coast near +Cape Palmas; their principal employment being of a maritime nature. +Their language, as well as their general character, is also different +from that of their neighbours. A certain number of these men are +always employed on board of the ships of war on the African coast, +for the purpose of performing those duties where considerable fatigue +and exposure to the sun are experienced. In consequence of their +roving employment, they are to be found on all parts of the coast, +and are sufficiently acquainted with it to serve as pilots. It is +customary with them to establish themselves on various parts of the +coast for this purpose, and to leave the elders of their tribes in +their own country, unless their presence should be required by any +war that might take place. They are said to return to their country +after an absence of several years, when they have amassed by their +industry, sufficient to maintain themselves, and some among them are +intelligent and active, but they are not always to be trusted, +although they are a very superior class of people, in comparison with +other African tribes. + +Besides a watering place at a short distance to the right of the +governor's house, two small streams, Hay brook and Horton brook, run +into Goderich Bay, affording plenty of excellent water, and capable +of admitting boats. The watering place, above-mentioned, is generally +frequented, from the convenience with which the water is obtained, +being connected to the sea side by a wooden aqueduct, under which +boats may lie and fill their casks very easily without removing them. + +When the Landers arrived, Clarence establishment consisted of the +superintendent, or acting governor, Mr. Becroft, who was generally +known by the title of captain; Captain Beattie, the commander of the +Portia, colonial schooner; Mr. Crichton, a naval surgeon; Lieutenant +Stockwell, with a party of five or six marines; a mulatto ensign of +the royal African corps, with two black companions from Sierra Leone, +and some carpenters and sail-makers, besides a mulatto, who filled +the office of clerk or secretary to Mr. Becroft; an English merchant +of the name of Lloyd, in the employment of Mr. Smith, whose residence +has been already mentioned. + +No place, in point of convenience, could have been better selected +for a settlement, than that on which Clarence is situated. The bay +affords safe anchorage for shipping, from the furious tornadoes, +which are common in this part of the world, and is sufficiently +capacious to shelter as many vessels as are likely to visit the +island; it abounds with fish, and is free from sunken rocks, and the +shore is steep and easy of access to boats. There is another bay, +called George's Bay, on the western side of the island, but it has +the disadvantage of being open to that quarter, and consequently +affords no safety to shipping. The proximity of Clarence Cove to the +coast of Africa, is also another important point in favour of the +object for which the establishment was formed. + +The natives of Fernando Po are the filthiest race of people in the +whole world. They are different in their manners and appearance from +their neighbours on the coast, to whom the Landers had of late been +so much accustomed, and possess no single trait of character similar +to them, except that of pilfering. In point of civilization, to which +the natives of Brass Town have not the most distant pretensions, +these people have even still less; their language is totally +different, and they have no resemblance whatever to them. This in +itself affords a tolerable proof of the little intercourse they have +had with the world, for while the other islands of the gulf are +plentifully stocked with the same race of people as those of the +coast, Fernando Po which is so much nearer to it, is inhabited by a +totally different class. They are, generally speaking, a stout, +athletic, and well-made race of people, and peculiarly harmless and +peaceably inclined in their dispositions, although each individual is +generally armed with a spear about eight feet in length, made of a +hard wood, and barbed at one end. They appeared also to be a healthy +race of people, for although here and there one or two might be less +favoured by nature in their persons, no signs of the diseases so +common among the natives of Africa were to be seen amongst them. + +They have already been described as a filthy race, but no words can +convey an idea of their disgusting nature. They have long hair, which +it is difficult to distinguish, from being matted together with red +clay and palm oil. The clay and oil are so profusely laid on; that it +forms an impenetrable shield for the head, and the long tresses, +which descend to their shoulders, are generally in a moist condition. +Although this covering is a complete safeguard to all inconvenience +from without, they still further adorn their heads with a kind of +cap, made of dry grass, ornamented round the border with the feathers +of fowls, or any other bird, carefully stuck into it apart from each +other. Some are so vain as to affix the horns of a ram in front of +this cap, which gives them a most strange and ludicrous appearance. +Finally, the cap with all its ornaments of feathers, horns, shells, +&c. is secured in its place with a piece of stick, which answers the +purpose by being forced through it on one side and out on the +opposite, after passing underneath the hair. Sometimes this elegant +pin, as it may be called, is formed of the leg bone of some small +animal, and is pointed at one end for the purpose of penetrating more +easily. The expression of their countenance, scared and marked as it +is, and surmounted by the cap already described, is wild and +barbarous. They smear their faces entirely over with red clay, mixed +with palm oil, sometimes a kind of grey dust is used instead of the +clay, and this preparation being equally distributed over their whole +persons, renders their presence scarcely tolerable. It is difficult +to find out the colour of their skin under the filthy covering of oil +and clay by which it is concealed, but it is believed not to be so +dark as the African negro, and more resembling a copper colour. + +The natives make use of no other dress than the cap, which they wear +on their heads, but a few leaves, or a bunch of dried grass, are +usually secured round the middle by the people of both sexes, while +the younger, naturally unconscious of indecency, go entirely naked. +The vertebrae of snakes, the bones of fowls and birds, as well as +sheep, broken shells, small beads, and pieces of cocoa nut shell are +put in requisition by the natives, for the ornament of their persons. +A profusion of these strung together hang round the waist, which it +seems to be the principal care to decorate in this manner, while +their necks are scarcely less favoured with a proportion of these +articles. Strings of them are also fastened round the arms and legs, +but not in such quantities as round the waist. The pieces of hoop +they have obtained from the ships which have visited the island, are +formed into rude knives, or polished, and worn on the arm, in a kind +of band made of straw, and are much valued. In their first +intercourse with Europeans, the natives were very shy, and displayed +much fear, but this gradually wore off, and they now venture boldly +on board for the purpose of obtaining knives, hatchets, or any thing +they can get. They have a few canoes of small dimensions, capable of +containing ten or twelve people, but are not very expert in the +management of them, although they are so far advanced as to make use +of a mast and sail, which latter is constructed of a sort of mat. +They seem to be little addicted to the water, and none were seen +amongst them; who could swim. In their fishing excursions, the +natives are generally very successful, and those who pursue this mode +of obtaining their livelihood, are compelled to adhere to it, and +allowed to have nothing to do with cultivating the land. They +exchange their fish for yams, and thus the wants of the fishermen and +the cultivators are both supplied. + +On the first visit of ships to this island, very considerable +aversion was shown by the natives to any of their people attempting +to go to their huts, or even to their endeavouring to penetrate into +the woods, although only a short distance from the shore, from a fear +perhaps of their plantations being plundered. Their huts, which are +of the rudest construction imaginable, may be distinctly seen amongst +the trees in small groups, surrounding a clear space of ground, in +which they cultivate the yam, and are formed of a few stakes driven +firmly into the ground, thatched over with the palm leaf, the sides +being completed with a sort of wicker work. They are about ten or +twelve feet long, and half that in breadth, and not more than four or +five feet in height. Their only furniture consists of some long flat +pieces of wood, raised a few inches from the ground, and slightly +hollowed out, to answer the purpose of sleeping in. + +Numerous instances have occurred, of the thieving propensities of the +natives, and it required, at first, a considerable degree of +vigilance to prevent them from being successful, but it is due to the +chiefs to say, that since the establishment of Clarence, they have +invariably taken an active part in putting a stop to it. Whatever may +have been their habits previously to the formation of the settlement, +they seem to be little improved by their intercourse with the +settlers. Their principal chief has received the formidable +appellation of cut-throat from Captain Owen, a name, by which he will +be known as long as he lives. This fellow is a most determined +savage, and seems to have lost none of his natural propensities by +communicating with the settlers. He has received innumerable presents +from the English, of clothes, and a variety of things, which are all +thrown away upon him, and he goes about as usual, wearing his little +hat, with feathers stuck in it, and the long grass about his waist, +disdaining such useless coverings as he imagines them. This is not to +be wondered at, for accustomed as he has been all his life time, to +the unrestrained freedom of his whole person, it would be rather a +matter of surprise to see him make use of them, particularly in the +climate of Fernando Po, where one almost wishes to follow the example +of the natives, excepting in the use of their clay and palm oil. No +doubt Cut-throat thinks this quite a sufficient covering. + +The natives pay frequent visits to the colony, and, however they may +deal out justice amongst themselves, are by no means backward in +seeing it administered among the free negroes and Kroomen of +Clarence. It frequently happens, that in the scarcity of live stock, +some of the former, unable to restrain their desire for more +substantial food, and tired of their Indian corn, venture to help +themselves to what the natives will not bring them; parties of these +people are accordingly formed, who find their way to the huts of the +natives in the interior, and steal their yams, goats, and sheep, or +whatever they meet with. These depredations are sure to bring the +unfortunate owners to the colony with complaints of their losses, +which are laid before the governor. The negroes are then mustered +before them, and the native who has been plundered, is allowed, if he +can do so, to point out the thief. If he should be successful, which +is frequently the case, he is allowed to witness the punishment, +which the offender is sentenced to receive, and generally gets some +recompense for his loss. On the Sunday after the arrival of the +Landers at Clarence, a party of four Kroomen set off into the +interior, with the full determination of plunder, let the +consequences be what it might. They had not gone far before they met +with a goat belonging to a native, which they immediately shot, and +returned with it carefully concealed, that they might not be +discovered. Their precautions, however, were of little avail, for the +owner of the animal accompanied by a party of his friends, made his +appearance at Clarence the next morning, and preferred his complaint +in strong terms against the luckless Kroomen, whom, it appeared, he +knew perfectly well. The Kroomen were accordingly mustered, and the +very four, who had gone on this unfortunate expedition, were pointed +out with exultation by the natives. The law took its course, the +Kroomen each received one hundred and fifty lashes from the African +drummer, usually employed on these occasions, while the natives stood +by, to see that the punishment was duly performed. This they did to +admiration, by counting the number of lashes each received; and +having witnessed the last punished, with eyes sparkling with brutal +satisfaction at the tortures of the unfortunate sufferers, they went +away quite satisfied. The place where this disagreeable operation is +performed, is in the barrack yard, on Point William, between the +officers' house and the hospital. The culprit is tied up to a kind of +strong gallows, erected for the purpose. Two stout pieces of timber, +about seven or eight feet high, are driven perpendicularly into the +ground, about four feet apart from each other, a piece is secured +firmly across them at the top, and another at a short distance from +the ground. The hands of the man who is to be punished, are tied at +each end of the upright pieces, and his legs are secured to the same +on each side below, in which position he is exposed to the merciless +scourge of the drummer, which is a common cat-o-nine-tails. It is +painful even to think of such scenes as these, and when they take +place at the mere whim and caprice of the hardened slave merchant, +such a picture is revolting in the extreme. Here, however, severe as +it may appear, it must be looked upon in a different point of view. +The punishment is great, but with the certainty of receiving it, if +discovered, the negro will run the risk of incurring it, by what may +be termed the breach of the first law of civilized society. In +addition to the tendency it has to keep the free blacks in control, +such a proceeding convinces the natives of the island, that their +depredations are not sanctioned by the colony. Were some punishment +not instituted to curb the restless, pilfering propensities of these +people, no order could be maintained; they would return to a worse +condition, than that which they were in at first, and the colony +would no longer be secure; for the natives of the island, finding +their homes invaded, and their property carried off, unable to obtain +redress, would soon take the law into their own hands, and would +either murder the colonists, or drive them from the island. +Therefore, although a severe one, it is a salutary measure, and it +has no doubt done much towards keeping the natives themselves honest. +What punishment is adopted by the natives, the Landers were not able +to ascertain. The chiefs appear to possess considerable authority +over them, and it is not improbable that the custom of the settlement +is imitated in some shape or other. + +The only weapon used by the natives, excepting the knife before +mentioned, is a spear, of about eight feet in length, made of iron +wood, and barbed at one end. The nature of the wood is so hard, as +not to require the protection of iron at the end, and they did not +see any pointed with it. They are very plentiful amongst the natives, +who do not appear to attach any particular value to them. The Landers +during their stay had no opportunity of witnessing their expertness +with them, but they are said to use them for killing monkeys and +other animals. + +The resources of the island, in point of provisions are exhausted, or +the natives are determined to reserve what are left for their own +purposes. On the first formation of the establishment, they gladly +brought to market all they had to dispose of, in the same manner as +they had done to any vessel that chanced to visit the island. These +consisted of a few goats, sheep, and fowls, of a very poor quality, +and plenty of yams, which were all readily exchanged for pieces of +iron hoop, of about six inches long. A piece of hoop of this length +would purchase a goat, three or four fowls, or a large bundle of +yams, weighing about twenty pounds. As their stock became exhausted, +so the iron hoops became less valuable; more were demanded, until the +natives could no longer supply the settlement, and had enough to do +to provide for themselves, when they discontinued their supplies, and +the settlement, not yet able to provide for itself, is dependent on +supplies from the Calebar, and other rivers near it. Bullocks are +stated by the natives, to be plentiful on the hills in the interior, +but the Landers did not hear of any having been seen by the people of +Clarence, and they are generally obtained from the Calebar River. +Deer are also said to be on the island, abundance of wild fowl, and a +great number of monkeys, some black and others of a brown colour. +Parrots are also innumerable, and the natives are particularly +partial to them and monkeys for food. Turtle have been caught in the +bay, as well as fish, but these supplies are uncertain, and, +therefore, not to be depended upon. The island is entirely +mountainous, and contains a fine rich soil, capable of producing any +thing required of it. Several small mountain streams fall into the +sea, the largest of which are the two, named Hay and Horton Brooks, +before mentioned. The principal vegetable cultivated by the natives +is the yam, with which they are particularly successful. The best +yams of the island are said to be those of George's Bay, which are +very large, and of an uncommonly fine flavour. The supply of these at +Clarence is now very limited, and not to be depended on always, which +may be probably to a difference in the season for growing them. This +deficiency has been in some measure remedied by the construction of a +government garden, from which some men of war have received supplies, +but these are not sufficient to supply the wants of the colony, and +recourse is had for them to the Calebar River. + +Palm wine at the colony, as well as on the coast, is the common and +favourite drink of the natives. It is easily procured in any +quantity, and is used in either an unfermented state, when just fresh +from the tree, or after it has been kept some days. It seems +peculiarly intended by a bountiful providence for the untutored and +destitute Indian, who is unable to supply himself with those +beverages which are the result of art. The palm tree affords him a +pleasant drink, a valuable oil, a fruit from the nut, and besides +food, it furnishes him with a material to construct his hut, and is +always ready for any immediate purpose. The juice, which is called +"wine," is obtained by making a hole in the trunk of the tree, and +inserting a piece of the leaf into it, so as to form a spout; the +liquid flows through this, and is received in a calabash placed +beneath it, which probably holds two or three gallons, and will be +thus filled in the course of a day. It shortly assumes a milky +appearance, and is either used in this state, or preserved till it +acquires rather a bitter flavour. The produce of the palm tree, fish, +and yams, form the principal food of the natives; they devour monkeys +when they can get them. + +This method of obtaining the juice of the palm tree is exactly +similar to that which is adopted by the Indians of North America, +with respect to the maple tree. A hole is made in the same manner in +the trunk of the tree, and a piece of birch bark inserted into it as +a spout, which, from its peculiar nature, answers the purpose +remarkably well. The juice of the maple instead of being preserved is +converted into sugar by evaporation. There are various sorts of +timber at Fernando Po, amongst which the African oak is very +plentiful, and particularly so in George's Bay, where it grows close +to the sea side; satin wood, ebony, lignum vitæ, yellow cam wood, and +several sorts of mahogany, besides other wood of a very hard nature, +grow in profusion all over the island, and may probably hereafter +become valuable. + +The Landers had the good fortune to arrive at the island during the +season of fine weather, but they had not enjoyed much of the sea +breeze, which about noon, sometimes set in from the north west +quarter, The harmattan is said to be experienced here, although it +extends not to the other islands of the gulf. This wind, which passes +over the sands of Africa, would be almost insupportable, were it not +for the sea breezes. While the harmattan lasts, the dryness in the +atmosphere produces an unpleasant feeling, although it is said not to +be injurious to health. The atmosphere is filled with a fine light +sand, which prevents objects from being distinctly seen; the sun +loses its brilliancy, and everything appears parched and suffering +from a want of moisture. The effect of the harmattan after the rainy +season is said to be most beneficial in drying up the vapours with +which the atmosphere is loaded, and it has been observed, that on the +return of this wind at the end of the rainy season, the recovery of +invalids commences. The harmattan has also the effect of drying up +the skin of the natives in a very extraordinary manner. After an +exposure to it, the skin peals off in white scales from their whole +body, which assumes an appearance as if it were covered over with +white dust. + +The islands in the gulf of Guinea, with the exception of Fernando Po, +have each a capital town of some consequence, and although they +produce sufficient supplies for ships that visit them, and carry on a +small trade, it is much to be doubted, whether they are not more +indebted for their importance to the slave trade than any other +source. With respect to Prince's Island and St. Thomas, they are +known to be the receptacles for slaves from the coast, from whence +they are re-embarked and conveyed away as opportunities offer; and +the natives of the small island of Anna Bon, appear to be living in +constant fear of the same, from the effects of their former treatment +by the Spaniards. + +The natives of Anna Bon, have a tradition that they once belonged to +the Portuguese, and exhibit proofs of their having been formerly +initiated in the ceremonies of the Roman Catholic religion. They are +said to be particularly careful, when any stranger visits their +settlement, to let them see their church, which is appropriately +situated for this purpose immediately opposite the landing place. At +present, by all accounts, they are living in a state of natural +simplicity and ignorance of the world. Some idea may be formed of the +condition of their minds, by a story that is currently related of +them, in which the effects of their former tuition are apparent. The +king once gravely told a visitor, with an idea of impressing him with +his importance, that a short time previously to his arrival, he had +held a conference with the supreme being, from whom he had learnt the +cause of a recent sickness which had visited them, and also that he +had approved of his being the king of the island. Other stories, +equally nonsensical, are told of them, such as might be expected from +people in this half-informed condition. But the old king's word was +sufficient for his subjects, and this assurance was quite enough to +satisfy the harmless, inoffensive creatures, that he was their +legitimate king. Although Anna Bon is a healthy island in comparison +with any other in the Gulf of Guinea; it is too far removed from the +coast to be of use in putting down the slave trade, unless it were +made a rendezvous for half a dozen steam vessels, which would do more +than any other class of vessels towards effecting this object. + +Favourable as the situation of Clarence is for the purpose for which +it is intended, it is much to be regretted that it is so unhealthy +for Europeans. During the stay of the Landers on the island, four +deaths occurred; these persons were the sail maker, one of the +carpenters of the colony, a seaman of the Portia, a colonial +schooner, and one of the crew of the Susan, an English brig that they +found there, on their arrival. The Susan was in the Calebar, waiting +for a cargo, when her crew were attacked with fever, which quickly +carried off her captain, mates, and left only one person alive. The +vessel thus reduced, was without her crew to bring her out of the +river, much less to complete her cargo, and she might have remained +there till the last had died, but for the watchful attention of Mr. +Becroft, who brought her to Clarence with a party of men, and after +putting a new mast into her, and doing all in his power to set the +vessel in order, supplied her with provisions and fresh people, and +sent her to sea. The Landers were offered a passage in her to +England, but declined accepting it in consequence of the condition in +which she had been. She was afterwards obliged to stop at Cape Coast, +in consequence of the fever having broken out afresh on board of her. +The most melancholy account of the effects of the climate here, which +came within the knowledge of the Landers, was in the family of +Lieutenant Stockwell, the officer commanding the party of marines, +whose name has been already mentioned. This gentleman had brought his +wife and a large family with him from the island of Ascension, who +were residing with his brother officer in a building called the +Waterfall House, which had been erected by Captain Owen. Mr. +Stockwell successively lost five of his children, and five servants, +the latter of whom successively died, as they came into his service. +His brother officer also died, making eleven in number, and Mr. +Stockwell and his wife narrowly escaped with their lives. The house +was in consequence deserted by them, and since been occupied by the +black people. The fever, which attacks Europeans at this island, is +said to be similar to the yellow fever in the West Indies. The +symptoms are the same, from the commencement to the end of the +disease, and it is equally as summary in its effects. George's Bay, +is said to be far healthier than Clarence, and being on the western +side of the island, receives the full benefit of the sea breeze, +while at Clarence, the wind is later, and is interrupted by land to +the westward of it. In addition to this, the sea breeze passes over a +long and disagreeable swamp in its progress to Clarence, which no +doubt charges it with all kinds of noxious vapours. George's Bay, +besides having the benefit of a pure sea breeze, has a good deal of +clear land about it, and equally as good a soil as Clarence. + +It is more than probable, as the Landers had now ascertained, that a +water communication may be carried on with so extensive a part of the +interior of Africa, that a considerable trade will be opened with the +country through which they had passed. The natives only require to +know what is wanted from them, and to be shown what they will have in +return, and much produce that is now lost from neglect, will be +turned to a considerable account. The countries situated on the +banks of the Niger, will become frequented from all the adjacent +parts, and this magnificent stream will assume an appearance, it has +never yet displayed. The first effects of a trade being opened, will +be to do away with the monopoly near the mouth of the river, which +has hitherto been held by the chiefs of the lower countries. Steam +boats will penetrate up the river even as far as Lever, at the time +of year in which the Landers came down, and will defy the efforts of +these monopolists to arrest their progress. The steam engine, the +greatest invention of the human mind, will be a fit means of +conveying civilization amongst the uninformed Africans, who, +incapable of comprehending such a thing, will view its arrival +amongst them with astonishment and terror, and will gradually learn +to appreciate the benefits they will derive, and to hail its arrival +with joy. In this case, Fernando Po will become of still greater +consequence, and will no doubt be a depot of considerable importance. +It was, however, the opinion of Richard Lander, that much expense +would be saved, and above all, many valuable lives, if it were +possible to adopt George's Bay, as the place for the principal +establishment. Of the different parts of the coast, Accra is the most +healthy, and were it nearer, Lander would recommend it for such a +purpose, the soil being good and clear of underwood for many miles +round. But the distance at which it lies from the mouth of the river +is too great for such a purpose. + +On the 23rd December, Mr. Becroft, the superintendent, invited +Richard Lander to accompany him in the Portia, to the Calebar River, +whither he was going to procure stock for the use of the colony. The +place from which this is obtained, is called Ephraim Town, where it +appears to be very plentiful. Being tired of Fernando Po, Lander +accepted his invitation, in order to pass away the time that they +would still have to wait before they could get away, notwithstanding +all their anxiety to reach home with the news of their discovery. +John Lander, being very ill, was unable to accompany them. Richard, +therefore, left him at Clarence, and embarked with Mr. Becroft in the +evening. They departed from Clarence with a fine breeze, but found it +necessary in going out, to be particularly careful of being drifted +by the tide, either on Point William, or on the Adelaide islets at +each extremity of the cove, as the tide always sets either towards +the one or the other. In leaving the cove, it is best to keep, as +near as possible, midway between the two extremes, and not to +approach either the one or the other, nearer than can be possibly +avoided. The currents in the Gulf of Guinea are stated to be very +variable, although they are most generally from the westward, obeying +the direction of the sea breeze. The harmattan generally produces a +very strong westerly current in direct opposition to this, and the +want of knowing it, has frequently proved fatal to vessels; the +masters of which, imagining that they were under the influence of an +easterly current, have been actually drifted many miles to the +westward in the course of a single night, and have found themselves +on shore the next morning; the violence of the current from the +westward when the sea breezes are strong, is so great, that it is +scarcely possible to believe, that a day or two of the harmattan +would overcome it, but the effect of this is so powerful, that it is +well known, to those, who have frequented the gulf, that the current +produced by the harmattan, will even continue against the westerly +winds, after they may have again set in. A remarkable instance is +related of the velocity of the currents in the gulf, to the southward +of Fernando Po. In the month of June, a vessel performed the passage +between Prince's Island and St. Thomas in twenty hours, which +generally occupies from eight to ten days. The distance is about +ninety three miles, and the vessel must have averaged from four to +six miles per hour. The harmattan is said not to extend to the +southward of Fernando Po, but this has not yet been fully +ascertained. + +The passage through the gulf from Fernando Po to Sierra Leone, is +generally extremely long and tedious, owing to the prevalence of +calms and the different currents. It is usually made either by +running to the southward and getting into the southeast trade, or by +keeping in shore, as far as Cape Palmas, so as to benefit by the +landwinds. The former method is generally recommended by the +merchantmen as being safer and quicker, for a vessel adopting the +latter, is more under the dangerous influence of the currents, +besides being obliged to keep close to the shore; it is also adopted +by the merchantmen in their homeward voyage. Sometimes vessels by +taking a mean between these two methods, get between two different +winds, by which means they lose the benefit of both, and are delayed +by calms and rains. This part, according to accurate information, is +at the distance of sixty miles from the land, so that vessels should +pass either far without or else within that distance on leaving +Fernando Po. + +In this part of the Gulf of Guinea, between Fernando Po and the +Calebar River, the rainy season is stated to commence in the month of +July, and to be at the worst in August and September, accompanied by +tornadoes of the most terrific description. The rains continue during +November, and cease in the month of December, but the coast is said +to be seldom many days together without a tornado. During the other +months of the year, dry, hot weather is experienced, excepting about +May, when slight rains take place. These rains are looked upon as the +winter of the natives, and are considered by them equally as cold in +their effects, as our winters in England are by ourselves. They are +equally alive to the change of the seasons as in northern countries, +and prepare themselves against the cold weather during the rains, +comparatively with as much care, as we do against our winter's frost. + +The chief peculiarity of this climate, which distinguishes it from +all others within the tropics, consists in the furious storms of wind +and rain, accompanied by the most terrific thunder and lightning it +is possible to imagine. These storms are known by the name of +tornadoes, and one would be almost inclined to think that the +ancient's belief of the torrid zone being of a fiery nature, and too +hot for mankind to live in, originated in the exaggerated reports of +them, which might have gradually found their way into the part of the +world then known, and from which they were not very far distant. The +Landers witnessed three of these tornadoes, but they were trifling in +their effects, compared with those which take place in the rainy +season. They are described as being most violent, but happily of +short duration; nothing can withstand the fury of the wind while they +last, but they give sufficient indications of their approach, to +enable the experienced mariner, who is ever on the watch for the +changes in the weather, to reduce his sail on the ship, and put her +head in that position, in which she is best able to withstand its +effects, by running before the wind. This awful period lasts +generally about a quarter of an hour, when the wind subsides rather +suddenly, while the rain falls incessantly; shortly afterwards, the +wind shifts round by the south to its old quarter, the west, until +another tornado comes to disturb it. There are several peculiarities +attending the tornadoes, which are rather remarkable. It has been +remarked by experienced navigators, that they are much influenced by +the different phases of the moon, that they generally commence with +the full or new moon, at which time they are the most violent, and +that they even come on at the time that the moon sets. The influence +of the moon on the weather In other countries is doubted, but this is +an extraordinary fact, relating to the tornadoes, which has been +proved by experience. + +On Saturday December 25th, after a pleasing passage, Richard Lander, +in company with Mr. Becroft, anchored off Ephraim Town, in the +Calebar River. The distance from Fernando Po to the north of the +Calebar River, is about sixty miles, and Ephraim Town is distant +about fifty miles, on the eastern bank. On their way up the river, +the attention of Richard Lander was attracted by something of a very +extraordinary appearance, hanging over the water from the branch of a +tree. His curiosity was excited by it, and he was at a loss to +conjecture what it was. He did not remain long in suspense, for they +soon passed sufficiently near it to enable him to discover, that it +was the body of one of the natives suspended by the middle, with the +feet and hands just touching the water. So barbarous a sight quickly +reminded him, that he was again amongst the poor deluded wretches on +the coast, although he had not seen any thing so bad on his way down +to the Brig Thomas, in the River Nun. The natives of this place are +Pagans, in the most depraved condition, and know nothing of +Mahommedanism, nor any other creed. They believe in a good spirit, +who they imagine dwells in the water, and sacrifices of human beings, +such as that which has just been mentioned, are frequently made to +him, with the idea of gaining his favour and protection. The object +selected for this purpose is generally some unfortunate old slave, +who may be worn out and incapable of further service, or unfit for +the market, and he is there left to suffer death, either from the +effects of the sun, or from the fangs of some hungry alligator or +shark, which may chance to find the body. The circumstance of the +hands and feet being just allowed to be immersed in the water, is +considered by these deluded people as necessary, and they are thereby +rendered an easier prey. + +It is usual with ships on their first arrival in the river, to be +visited by Duke Ephraim, the chief of the town; a personage who is +well known to the numerous Liverpool traders, that frequent the +river. The reason of this visit is, that the duke may receive his +present, which consists generally of cloth, muskets, rum, or any +articles of that description, and he always goes on board in great +state, in his canoe, for this purpose, previously to which, no one is +allowed to leave the ship. This regulation, which is a method of +securing the port dues, affects those only, who come to the river for +the purpose of trade, and as the Portia was a government vessel, +they were not included in the number of those, who had the port dues +to pay. As soon as they had anchored, Richard Lander accompanied Mr. +Becroft on shore, and proceeded with him to the duke's residence, for +the purpose of paying their respects to him. A walk of about ten +minutes brought them to his house, and they found him in the palaver +square which belongs to it, busily engaged in writing, and surrounded +by a great number of his principal people. It was something unusual +to find a native chief thus employed, but the large dealings which +Duke Ephraim appears to have with the Liverpool merchants, accounts +in some measure for this accomplishment, and the smattering of +English which he has obtained. His only pretensions to dress, +consisted in a smart, gold laced hat, which he wore, and a handsome +piece of silk tied round his loins. His chief officers, who were next +to him, also wore gold laced hats, while those next in rank wore +silver lace, and the lower class contented themselves without either. +They arrived at council time, but Mr. Becroft being immediately +recognized by the duke, he received them very cordially, and made +them sit down. Duke Ephraim bears the character of being always very +civil and attentive to the English, and of making himself very active +in supplying their wants of live stock. He has formed a favourable +opinion of them, from the fine things they bring him, but his +discernment goes beyond these; for the circumstance of slave vessels +having being captured and taken out of the river, by the boats of the +English ships of war on the station, has impressed him with +admiration of their boldness and courage, and given him a very +exalted opinion of their power. Vessels of war formerly came up the +river in search of slaves, and he has always received their +commanders with much kindness, and assisted them all in his power; a +trait in his character, which is rather extraordinary, when their +object is considered, as he is the principal agent by whom supplies +of slaves are furnished from the interior. None, however, are +allowed to come up now, in consequence of the deaths that have +occurred. + +After a short time, they were desired to go up stairs into his best +room, and they accordingly ascended about thirty or forty wooden +steps, and entered a spacious apartment, when the sight that +presented itself was of the most extraordinary description. The room, +which was about thirty feet in length, by about twenty in breadth, +was literally crammed full of all kinds of European furniture, +covered with cobwebs and dust about half an inch thick. Elegant +tables and chairs, sofas of a magnificent description, splendid +looking-glasses, and prints of the principal public characters of +England, as well as views of sea and land engagements, set in +handsome gilt frames, beautifully cut glass decanters, and glasses, +glass chandeliers, and a number of other things, too numerous to +mention, were all mixed together in the utmost confusion. A handsome +organ attracted the notice of Lander, and a large, solid brass +arm-chair, which from an inscription upon it, appeared to be the +present of Sir John Tobin of Liverpool. The inscription, or rather +raised characters upon it were, "Presented by Sir John Tobin of +Liverpool, to his friend Duke Ephraim," and vain enough is the chief +of his present. He exhibits this chair with the rest of his presents +to the people, or any stranger who may happen to visit him, and +allows them to feast their eyes, as he imagines, on the goodly sight, +but such are his care and pride of them, that he will not allow them +to be touched by any one, and his attendants are not permitted to +approach them, even for the purpose of cleaning off the dust which +has accumulated since their first arrival. The whole of this +miscellaneous assemblage of goods, are presents which have been made +to the duke by merchants of Liverpool, as well as French, Spanish, +and Portuguese traders, and are the accumulation of a considerable +length of time. + +Duke Town, or Ephraim Town, as it is known by both of these +appellations, is situated on rather elevated ground, On the left or +east bank of the river, and is of considerable size, extending +principally along it. From the appearance of it, it may be concluded +that its inhabitants amount to at least six thousand people. The +houses are generally built of clay, like those of the Eboe people. +The breadth of the river opposite to it, is not quite so wide as the +Thames at Waterloo Bridge, and the opposite bank is not so high as +that on which the town stands. The houses are built in an irregular +manner, leaving very little room for the road between them, which at +that time was exceedingly wet and dirty. The duke's house is situate +in the middle of the town, and like the rest is built of clay. It +consists of several squares, round each of which is a verandah, +similar to the houses in Yarriba. The centre square is occupied by +the duke and his wives, the others being the abode of his servants +and attendants, which altogether amount to a considerable number. +Immediately opposite to the first square, which forms the entrance to +his residence, stands a small tree, profusely decorated with human +skulls and bones. This tree is considered by the people as fetish or +sacred, and is supposed to possess the virtue of preventing the evil +spirit from entering the duke's residence. Near the tree stands the +house, which is inhabited by their priests, a class of beings, +certainly in the most savage condition of nature that it is possible +to imagine. The fetish priests of Brass Town, chalked themselves from +head to foot, besides dressing after a fashion of their own, but +these fellows outdo them far, and make themselves the most hideous +and disgusting objects possible. + +Whether it may be with the idea of personifying the evil spirit of +whom they are so afraid, Lander could not learn, but they go about +the town with a human skull fastened over their face, so that they +can see through the eye-holes; this is surmounted by a pair of +bullock's horns; their body is covered with net, made of stained +grass, and to complete the whole, and give them an appearance as +ridiculous behind as they are hideous before, a bullock's tail +protrudes through the dress, and hangs down to the ground, rendering +them altogether the most uncouth looking beings imaginable. Sometimes +a cocked hat is substituted for the horns, and the skull of a dog or +monkey used, which renders their appearance, if possible, still more +grotesque. Thus equipped, they are ready to perform the mysteries of +their profession, which Lander had not sufficient opportunity to +inquire into, but which are quite enough to enslave the minds of the +people. They seem to believe in a good and evil spirit; that the good +spirit dwells in the river, which accounts for their sacrifices being +made on it, and that the evil spirit dwells in a tree, which being +full of human skulls, keeps him away from them. + +On the morning of the 26th, the duke's principal man came on board +the Portia to receive payment for some bullocks, which Mr. Becroft +had purchased. There was something in his appearance which attracted +the attention of Lander, and he fancied that he seemed to be much +dirtier than any that had been seen on the preceding day. On a nearer +inspection, his head, and the whole of his body were found to be +covered with ashes, and a very dirty piece of sackcloth fastened +round his loins; besides this he appeared to be suffering great +distress of mind, and presented a most wretched and woeful +appearance. Lander asked him the cause of his grief, and why he had +covered himself with ashes in such a manner, when he gave the +following relation of the cause of all his distress. It appeared that +he had possessed six wives, one of whom was gifted with a larger +share of personal charms than the rest, the consequence of which was, +that she received more attention from him and was loved more than any +of the others. This partiality naturally excited the jealousy of the +other ladies, and mortified by his neglect of them, they were +determined on revenge, and was resolved to get rid of their favoured +rival by mixing poison with her food. They had just succeeded in +effecting their purpose, which had caused the poor fellow much +distress, and he had not recovered the effects of his loss on the +morning on which he came onboard the Portia. His tale was simple and +unvarnished, and while he was relating it to Lander, the tears were +trickling down his face. Lander never before saw a black man feel so +much for the loss of a wife as he did. This remarkable custom of +mourning in sackcloth and ashes, appears to be peculiar to these +people, and it was ascertained that they do not cease to cover their +bodies with them as long as their sorrow lasts. They do the same on +the death of a relation, and it is the only instance of the kind that +Lander met with in the part of the country through which he had +travelled. + +Great uproar and confusion prevailed the whole of this day +throughout the town occasioned by an adventure of the doctor with the +duke's most favourite wife, which is likely to end tragically to the +parties concerned. This person, who is the doctor of the town, it +appears was the bosom friend of the duke, in whom the latter had the +greatest confidence, and allowed him to visit his wives +_professionally_ as often as he thought proper. The gentleman's visit +had lately become so frequent as to excite suspicion and a look out +was accordingly kept on all his movements. The poor doctor was soon +caught in the snare; the motive of his visit was found to be of an +illegal nature, and the enraged duke has ordered both to be bound +hand and foot and thrown into the river on the following day. + +Lander found seven French vessels lying in the river, one Spanish, +and two English. One of the latter, named the Caledonia, a ship of +five hundred tons burden, was the property of Sir John Tobin, of +Liverpool, which, with the other, the brig Elizabeth were taking in a +cargo of palm oil. + +The river Calebar is very serpentine, and there is scarcely any other +tree but the mangrove to be seen on its banks. The right bank is +intersected by numerous creeks, well known to the natives, who +frequent them in their canoes; they communicate with all the rivers +that fall into the Gulf of Guinea, between this river and that on +which Benin is situated. The natives go as far as Benin in their +canoes, but there is no communication by water with the Camaroons +river, which seems to be totally distinct from the Calebar. The +canoes of the natives are the same sort as those of the Eboe people. +The river is full of crocodiles which are generally about twelve or +fourteen feet long, and are very daring in their search of prey. A +short time previous to their arrival two deaths had been occasioned +by them. Sir John Tobin has a large store close to the river side, in +which palm oil is kept for shipment on board the Liverpool vessels, +and one evening an unfortunate native boy, tired with his day's work, +fell asleep on the shore. In the course of the night an alligator +attacked him, and was awakened by finding himself in the jaws of the +monster; his struggles and cries were all in vain; the powerful +creature lacerated him in a dreadful manner, and tore off one of his +legs, with which he retreated into the water, and the remains of the +unfortunate boy were found the next morning shockingly disfigured and +weltering in blood, the death of the other was occasioned by his +losing an arm in a similar manner. + +Provisions are generally dear at Duke Town. Bullocks fetch twenty +dollars each, and those not of a very good quality. Goats and sheep +are valued at three dollars, ducks at half a dollar each, and fowls +at half a dollar a pair. Yams are cultivated by the natives very +successfully, and are considered the best flavoured and finest of the +country. There are no cleared portions of ground on the banks of the +river, and their cultivation of the yam and other vegetables is at a +distance in the woods. + +Since Lander's first return to Fernando Po from the Calebar river, he +accompanied Mr. Becroft twice to Duke Town in the Portia. In this +interval the Carnarvon, an English vessel had arrived with government +stores from England for the establishment, and as she was going to +Rio Janeiro for a cargo to take back, and there seemed to be no +prospect at present of their getting away from Fernando Po by any +other means, the Landers requested Mr. Becroft to conclude an +agreement for their passage to that place, from whence they hoped to +be more successful in finding their way to England. About a week +previously, the brig Thomas, in which they came from the river Nun, +touched at the island on her way home from the Camaroons, her +commander, Lake, supposing that they would take a passage with him. +They had now been upon the island seven weeks, and they would have +preferred staying seven more, rather than put themselves into his +power again. They had experienced quite enough of his care and +kindness, and therefore declined his offer of taking them. After +waiting three days at the island, he sailed about six o'clock in the +afternoon, and had not got more than a mile from the anchorage, when +a large vessel with long, raking masts, suddenly appeared from behind +a part of the island, and was seen in pursuit of him. They observed +the vessel to fire several guns at him, which at length made him take +in all sail and wait. No doubt was entertained that this vessel was a +pirate, and their suspicions were confirmed the next day by seeing +the two vessels lying becalmed close to each other. There were no +signs of them on the following day, and they saw nothing more of the +Thomas. Nor, indeed, was this vessel ever heard of again, in fact, +the Landers considered it a most providential escape, that they did +not take their passage in her. No doubt rested on the minds of the +people of the settlement that the stranger vessel was a pirate, and +that when his people had murdered the crew of the Thomas, with their +captain, or had compelled them to walk the plank, as they usually do, +that they sunk her after taking everything out of her which they +wanted. "Walking the plank," is literally walking into the sea. A +plank is placed across the side of the ship, so that one end projects +some distance over it while the other remains inside. The person +condemned by these ruffians to this mode of death, which is generally +chosen to avoid one of a more dreadful nature, is placed on the inner +end of the plank, and compelled to walk along it till he reaches the +outer end, which immediately yields to his weight, and he falls into +the sea, never to rise again. To make shorter work of it, he is +sometimes loaded with a large shot, which quickly carries him down. +These fellows have another method of disposing of any unfortunate +vessel that may fall into their hands; after having got rid of the +captain and crew as above, they fill her with slaves, and send her +across the Atlantic, should the vessel be met with by any ship of +war, she escapes examination, as her appearance when in the hands of +her own commander was known, and therefore no suspicion is excited. + +Everything being prepared for their departure they embarked on board +the Carnarvon,--Garth, commander, for Rio Janeiro. The Landers speak +in terms of high commendation of the conduct observed towards them, +during their stay at Fernando, by Mr. Becroft, Mr. Crichton, and Mr. +Beatty. Everything was supplied them which the place could afford, +and it was always a source of gratification to them to reflect on the +time that they passed in their society. + +Having taken leave of their friends, they embarked and bade adieu to +the island of Fernando Po. Mr. Stockwell, the officer of marines, +accompanied them on board, having taken his passage like themselves +to return to England. Their crew consisted of seven European seamen, +two free negroes and one Krooman, besides the commander of the vessel +and two mates. So great, however, was the mortality amongst them, +that before a week had elapsed, the two Landers with the three black +men were all that were left to work the vessel, and one of them only +knew how to steer. Richard Lander was obliged to take the helm until +twelve at night, and every morning after four, having only a few +minutes allowed him to take a hasty meal, and in addition to their +troubles, the vessel was so completely over-run with rats, that it +was quite impossible to stay below with any comfort, and as for +sleeping there, it was wholly out of the question. + +On the evening of the 14th March, the Krooman fell into the sea. This +poor fellow, whose name was Yellow Will, called loudly to them for +help, and although the vessel was not sailing at a great rate, he +missed every thing that was thrown overboard to save him. To have +altered the ship's course would have endangered the masts and sails, +and their small boat was so leaky that it would not swim. They had +therefore no alternative, but were obliged to abandon him to his fate +with the most painful feelings, and they heard his cries nearly an +hour afterwards. [Footnote] There is nothing more distressing than an +accident of this nature. To see an unfortunate man grasping in vain +at any thing which is thrown to him, as the ship passes by him, to +see him struggling against his fate as he rises on the distant wave, +which frequently conceals him from view, and to be unable to render +him the least assistance, whilst his cries die away in the breeze, +raise sensations which it is impossible to describe. This man in the +condition in which they then were, particularly, was a great loss to +them, and was the best amongst the black people. + +[Footnote: We have given this as it is stated in Lander's Narrative, +but there is something highly improbable in the circumstance of the +cries of a man, who could not swim, being heard for an hour after his +immersion in the sea, and yet that during that time no effectual +means could be devised for his deliverance.] + +On the morning of the 15th, the weather was very hazy, which +prevented them seeing the land, although they knew it to be at no +great distance from them. They were becalmed during the whole of the +day, but found by the decrease of the depth, that they were drifting +close on towards the shore. At five in the afternoon, the ship was +about a quarter of a mile from the land, discovered by three large +hills of a sugar loaf appearance being close to them. Finding by +pieces of cork and other things that they threw into the water, that +they were drifting fast on the breakers, which they could distinctly +hear, they made an attempt to get the long boat out to save +themselves, as they expected the ship would be very soon wrecked, but +they found that they could not muster sufficient strength to lift her +over the side. At this critical moment, a breeze of wind from off the +land saved them from destruction, and enabled them to get the vessel +under command. + +On the 16th March they arrived at Rio Janeiro, and on the following +day paid their respects to Admiral Baker, the commander in chief on +the South American station, and made known to him their situation and +anxiety to return to England. The admiral received them in that kind +and hospitable manner, which is the peculiar characteristic of a +British seaman. He invited them to his table with his officers, and +ordered them a passage in the William Harris, a government transport, +which was to sail for England in a day or two. + +Accordingly on the 20th they sailed for England, and on the 9th June +arrived at Portsmouth, after a tedious voyage, and gladly landed with +hearts full of gratitude for all their deliverance. + +One of the first steps which government adopted on the arrival of +Richard Lander, was to issue an order to the authorities at Cape +Coast Castle, to pay to King Boy the whole of his demand for the +ransom of the Landers, and thereby re-establishing that faith and +good opinion with the natives of the country, touching the honour and +integrity of the English character. + +This journey by individuals who make no pretensions to science, has +not afforded materials for the illustration of any of its branches, +but previously to the loss of the instruments, the range of the +thermometer is recorded. At Badagry, on the coast, where the heat was +most oppressive, it was between 86° and 94°, oftener stationary near +the latter than the former point. At Jenna it fell suddenly one day +from 94° to 78°, and remained stationary for some hours. At Assinara +at noon, on the 23rd April it attained the height of 99°. Near +Katunga it fell upon one occasion to 71° in the shade, the air being +then cooler than they had felt it since landing. At Kiama the +extremes were 75° and 94°, the mean 84°. At Youri, the range was the +same. On their voyage from Youri to Boussa, on the 2nd August, it +varied from 75° to 92°. At Boussa it varied from 76° to 93°, but most +commonly between 80° and 90°. At Patashie, generally between 74° and +89°, once 93°. Lever 77° to 93°. Bajiebo 70° to 95°. On the passage +down the river below that place, on the 5th October, 78° to 94°. +Belee 79° to 94°. Such has been the issue of this important voyage, +by which the grand problem that perplexed Europe during so many ages, +and on which, for a period of nearly forty years, so many efforts and +sacrifices had been expended in vain, was completely solved. British +enterprise completed, as it had begun this great discovery. Park in +his first journey reached the banks of the Niger, and saw it rolling +its waters towards the interior of the continent. In the second he +embarked at Bammakoo, and by sailing downwards to Boussa, proved its +continuous progress for upwards of a thousand miles. The present +voyage has exhibited it following a farther course, which with its +windings must amount to about eight hundred miles, and finally +emptying itself into the Atlantic. This celebrated stream is now +divested of that mysterious character, which surrounded it with a +species of supernatural interest. Rising in a chain of high +mountains, flowing through extensive plains, receiving large +tributaries, and terminating in the ocean, it exhibits exactly the +ordinary phenomena of a great river. But by this discovery we see +opened to our view a train of most important consequences. The Niger +affords a channel of communication with the most fertile, most +industrious, and most improved regions of interior Africa. Its +navigation is very easy and safe, unless at intervals between Boussa +and Youri, and between Patashie and Lever, and even there it becomes +practicable during the _malca_ or flood, produced by the periodical +rains. British vessels may, therefore, by this stream and its +tributaries ascend to Rabba, Boussa, Youri, Soccatoo, Timbuctoo, +Sego, and probably to other cities as great, but yet unknown. They +may navigate the yet unexplored Tchadda, a river, which at its +junction, is nearly as large as the Niger itself, and no doubt waters +extensive and fertile regions. It was even stated to the Landers by +different individuals, that by this medium, vessels might reach the +Lake Tchadda, and thereby communicate with the kingdom of Bornou. But +this statement appears erroneous, for though the Tchadda be evidently +the same with the Shary, which runs by Adomowa and Durrora, yet +flowing into the Niger, it must be a quite different stream from the +Shary, which flows _into_ the Tchad, and in a country so mountainous, +there is little likelihood of any connecting branches. The decided +superiority of the interior of Africa to the coast, renders this +event highly important. Steam, so peculiarly adapted to river +navigation, affords an instrument by which the various obstacles may +be overcome, and vessels may be enabled to penetrate into the very +heart of the African continent. + +On the return of the Landers, the question was mooted by the +Geographical Society of London, whether the Quorra or _Niger_, as +discovered by Lander, was the same river as the _Kigir_ of the +ancients. Upon the whole subject it would have been sufficient to +refer to D'Anville and Rennell, who favour the affirmative of the +question, and on the opposite side to M. Wakkenaer, who of all later +writers has examined it with the greatest diligence, had not recent +discoveries furnished us with better grounds for forming a conclusive +opinion, than even the latest of these authors possessed. + +Maritime surveys have now completed a correct outline of Northern +Africa. Major Laing, by ascertaining the source of the Quorra to be +not more than sixteen hundred feet above the sea, proved that it +could not flow to the Nile. Denham and Clapperton demonstrated that +it did not discharge itself into the Lake of Bornou, and at length +its real termination in a delta, at the head of the great gulf of the +western coast of Africa, has rewarded the enlightened perseverance of +the British government, and the courage and enterprise of its +servants. The value to science of this discovery, and the great merit +of those, whose successive exertions have prepared and completed it, +is the more striking, when we consider that the hydrography of an +unknown country is the most important step to a correct knowledge of +its geography, and that in barbarous Africa, nothing short of the +ocular inquiries of educated men, is sufficient to procure the +requisite facts, and yet it is not a little extraordinary, that the +termination of the Quorra or Niger has been discovered by two men, +who, in point of scientific knowledge, education, or literary +acquirements, stand the lowest in the scale of the African +travellers. It is, however, curious to observe how even the best +collectors of oral information in that country, have failed in +arriving at the truth, as to the origin, cause, and termination of +the rivers. Edrisi, Abulfida, Leo Africanus,[Footnote] Delile, and +Bruce, all come to the determination that the Quorra flowed from east +to west. Burckhardt, whose oral inquiries on Bornou, have proved +generally correct, concluded that the Shary flowed from N.E. to S.W., +and Lyon, though particularly successful in his information on the +countries not visited by him, was induced to confound the Shary of +Bornou with the Tchadda or Yen, and like Sultan Bello, to carry the +Quorra, after passing Youri and Funda, into the Lake Tchadda, and +thence into Egypt. The most intelligent natives are confused, when +questioned on the subject of rivers, while the majority, unable to +understand the object or utility of such enquiries, can neither +inform the traveller whether two streams are different rivers or part +of the same; where any river rises, or whither it flows, and appear +often to believe that all the lakes and streams of Africa, are parts +of one and the same water. It is not surprising, therefore, that +ancients as well as moderns have obtained the knowledge of a large +river flowing to the east, should have supposed that it was a branch +of the Nile of Egypt, or that when the existence of a great lake, in +the direction of the known portion of its stream, became known, the +opinion should have followed, that the river terminated in that lake, +or that it was discharged through the lake into the Nile. Such, +consequently have been the prevalent notions in all ages, even +amongst the most intelligent foreigners, as well as the higher class +of natives, from Herodotus, Etearchus, and Juba, to Ibn, Batuta, and +Bello of Soccatoo. + +[Footnote: It is supposed by W. Martin Leake, Esq. Vice President of +the Geographical Society, that Leo Africanus actually reached +Timbuctoo. The narrative of Adams places the matter at rest, that Leo +never did reach that famous city. Mr. Leake says, that Leo was very +young at the time, and, therefore that his memory probably failed +him, when he came to describe the city, which was many years after +his return.] + +Considering these circumstances, it will hardly be contended that the +late discovery of the Landers, has made any alteration in the nature +of the question, as to the identity of the Quorra and Nigir; the +sudden bend of the river to the southward, through a country, which +has been equally unknown to the ancients and moderns, having always +left the best informed of them in ignorance of any part of the river, +except that of which the course was northerly or easterly. If then, +there be sufficient reason for the belief, that these latter portions +were known to the, ancients, we have only to suppose them to have had +some such imperfect knowledge of the interior of North Africa, as we +ourselves had attained previously to the expedition of Denham and +Clapperton, to justify the application of the name Nigir to the whole +course of the river. Although we find Ptolemy to be misinformed on +several points concerning central Africa, yet there still remains +enough in his Data, on Interior Libya and Northern Ethiopia, to show +a real geographical approximation, very distant indeed from the +accuracy at which science is always aiming, but quite sufficient to +resolve the question as to the identity of the Nigir, in which an +approximation is all that can be expected or required. Having been +totally ignorant of the countries through which that river flows in a +southerly direction, Ptolemy naturally mistook it for a river of the +interior; he knew the middle Ethiopia to be a country watered by +lakes, formed by streams rising in mountains to the southward; he was +superior to the vulgar error of supposing that all the waters to the +westward of the Nile flowed into that river, and he knew consequently +that the rivers and lakes in the middle region, had no communication +with the sea. It is but lately that we ourselves have arrived at a +certainty on this important fact. We now know enough of the level of +the Lake Tchad, to be assured that no water from that recipient can +possibly reach the Nile. This wonderful river, of which the lowest +branch is 1200 geographical miles from the Mediterranean, (measuring +the distance along its course, in broken lines of 100 G.M. direct,) +has no tributary from the westward below the Bahr Adda of Browne, +which is more than 1600 miles from the sea, similarly measured. It is +scarcely possible, therefore, that the latter point can be less, +taking the cataracts into consideration than 1500 feet above the sea, +whereas the following considerations lead to the belief that the +Tchadda is not more than 500 feet in height. + +We learn from the information of Clapperton, confirmed and amplified +by that of Lander, that there exists a ridge, which about Kano and +Kashna, extends forth the Yeu to the Lake Tchadda on one side, and on +the other the river of Soccatoo, which joins the Quorra at a distance +from the sea of about 500 miles, measured in the manner above +mentioned. A similar process of measurement gives a length of 1700 +miles to the whole course of the Quorra, the sources of which, +according to Major Laing, are about 1600 feet above the sea; the +stream, therefore, has an average fall of something less than a foot +in a mile in lines of 100 geographical miles. This would give to the +confluence of the river of Soccatoo with the Quorra, a height of less +than 500 feet above the sea, but as that confluence occurs above the +most rapid part of the main stream, 500 feet seem to be very nearly +the height. + +As a knowledge of the origin and course of rivers, conducts in every +country to that of the relative altitude and directions of its +highlands, the late discoveries on the waters of Africa have thrown +great light on its orography. The sources of the largest, or rather +longest of its rivers, namely, the white or true Nile, now appears to +be in a point nearly equidistant from the Indian and Atlantic Oceans +in one direction, and from the Mediterranean and the Cape of Good +Hope on the other. These central summits, it is fair to suppose, are +at least as high as the snowy peak Samen, in Abyssinia, which is the +culminating point towards the sources of the minor branch or Blue +Nile, and that they are covered, therefore, with perpetual snow. From +hence flow the White Nile, the Djyr, the Bahr Culla, the Congo, and +several rivers of the coast of Zanguebar. + +As a part of these great African Alps was described to Denham as +lying beyond the mountain of Mendefy, the latter would seem to be an +advanced northerly summit of them. The range is probably united to +the eastward with the mountains of Abyssinia, and to the westward, +terminates abruptly in some lofty peaks on the eastern side of the +delta of the Quorra, but not till after it has sent forth a lower +prolongation, which crosses the course of the Quorra nearly at right +angles, and terminates at the end of 1500 miles, at the sources of +the Quorra, Gambia, and Senegal. A minor counterfort advances from +the central range to the northwestward, commencing about the Peak of +Mendefy, and vanishing at the end of about 900 miles in the desert of +the Tuaricks. It gives rise to the two Sharys, which flow in opposite +directions to the Quorra and the Lake Tchadda, and further north to +the streams which flow to the same two recipients from about Kano and +Kashna. + +Though the knowledge of interior Africa now possessed by the +civilized world, is the progressive acquisition of many enterprising +men, to all of whom we are profoundly indebted, it cannot be denied +that the last great discovery has done more than any other to place +the great outline of African geography on a basis of certainty. When +to this is added the consideration that it opens a maritime +communication into the centre of the continent, it may be described +as the greatest geographical discovery that has been made since that +of New Holland. Thrice during the last thirty years, it has been on +the eve of accomplishment; first when Horneman had arrived from +Fezzan and Nyfflé, secondly when Park had navigated the Quorra as far +as Boussa, and lastly when Tuckey, supplied with all possible means +For prosecuting researches by water, was unfortunately expedited to +The Congo, instead of being sent to explore the mouths of the Niger. + + + +CHAPTER XLIII. + +A maritime communication with the interior of Africa having been now +opened, by the discovery of the termination of the Niger in the Bight +of Benin, it was considered, that some great commercial advantages +might be derived by fitting out an expedition on a large scale, and +as Lander on his return home had reported, that the Niger was +navigable for vessels of a light burden for a considerable distance +into the country, it was resolved to fit out two steam vessels, well +armed and amply supplied with all stores both in a commercial point +of view, and for attack and defence when arriving amongst the natives +in the interior. It was an enterprise every way worthy of the British +character, and one likely to be productive of future consequences, +the importance of which it would be difficult to overrate either in a +commercial or in a moral and political point of view. Sir John Tobin +of Liverpool was one of its great promoters, and the immediate object +of the expedition was to ascend the Niger, to establish a trade with +the natives, and to enlarge our geographical knowledge of the +country. When we look at the dense population of Africa described in +the preceding parts of this work, it is obvious that in them might be +found an extensive market for the manufactured goods and wares of +England; for the cottons of Manchester, Glasgow, &c., and for many +other products of our skill and industry. In return for these, the +rich commodities of gold, ivory, hippopotami teeth, and the more +common articles of wood, peltry, gums, &c. &c. may be imported, and +if encouragement be given, indigo and other valuable things would be +largely cultivated to barter with Europe. And still nobler aims were +before us, the ending of the traffic in human beings, and the gradual +illumination and civilization of Africa. + +Although in unison with the enlightened spirit of the times, this +expedition may be considered as simply a mercantile speculation, yet +at the same time it purposed to combine objects of greater and more +general interest. The sum of £300 was presented by Sir John Tobin, +and other individuals concerned in the expedition. Government had +nothing to do with the outfit of the expedition, but it was to be +accompanied by Lieutenant William Allen, of the royal navy, but +without rank or command, as a passenger, with instructions to make +surveys and observations, for which his scientific attainments well +qualified him. + +Richard Lander was appointed to the command of the expedition, +leaving his brother John as his _locum tenens_ in the Customhouse of +Liverpool until his return. + +The expedition, considering the object which it had in view was of a +formidable kind, two steam vessels were equipped for the purpose, the +larger was computed to be 145 tons burden, and propelled by a fifty +horse engine. Her sides were pierced and mounted with ten six +pounders. Forward, a very formidable display was made by a +twenty-four pound swivel gun, whilst a long swivel eighteen pound +carronade astern seemed to threaten destruction to every foe. In +addition to these precautions against the Spanish pirates who infest +the coast, and of which Lander was himself an eye witness in the +capture of the brig Thomas, and also against such of the native +tribes, who might prove hostile to the expedition, she was completely +surrounded by a _chevaux de frise_, and amply provided with small +arms and boarding pikes for forty persons, of which number the crew +were to consist. This steamer was named after the river she was +intended to ascend, namely the Quorra, which is the Arabic for +"shining river." Her draft of water was easy, and in her ascent would +not be more than two feet six inches, which was very small, +considering that no sacrifice had been made of those operations, +which constitute the _beau ideal_ of a steamer, which the Quorra +certainly was. The construction of the paddles was such, that should +favourable winds occur, they could be removed in such a manner, that +she could use sails instead of steam, and receive no impediment to +her progress by their immersion in the water. She was schooner rigged +and rather lofty. The Quorra was intended to ascend the principal +stream, and the lesser vessel, which was built entirely of wrought +iron, and of a draught of only 18 inches, was intended to explore all +the tributary streams, and to visit Timbuctoo, Warree, Soccatoo, &c. +&c. This latter vessel was only 55 tons burden, and called the +Alburkha, which is the Arabic for "blessing." The brig Columbine, +which was to accompany them as far as the river Nun, was principally +laden with fuel and other articles for the use of the two steamers. +She was not to ascend the river, but to anchor in a convenient place +as a kind of store-house for the steamers. It was expected that a +sufficiency of wood would be found on the banks of the river to +generate steam, when the supply of coal was exhausted, or not easily +to be procured. The whole squadron was under the command of Captain +Harris of the royal navy, whose experience on the coast during a +period of six years entitled him to the confidence of the promoters +of the expedition. Macgregor Laud, esquire, of Liverpool, as +supercargo, and Mr. Briggs, of Liverpool, surgeon, accompanied the +expedition. To the latter gentlemen was confided the botanical +department, and also that of natural history, being fully competent +to investigate the very important branches connected with those +sciences, either for philosophical or commercial results. + +The Columbine brig was 170 tons, commanded by Captain Miller, being +laden with coals for the steamers, and a variety of articles for +presents, trade, or barter, and a few passengers. The Alburkha +steamer was commanded by Captain Hill, and was admitted to be a model +of a vessel, although with the exception of the decks, being entirely +built of iron. She had a crew of fourteen men. + +Lander carried with him a number of copies of an address, prepared by +Mr. Salamé, and intended to explain the objects of their visit to the +native chiefs and kings. They were printed on all kinds of coloured +paper and being adorned with pictures of the two steam boats, were +likely enough to be regarded not merely as ambassadorial letters, but +as beautiful specimens of the fine arts by the sovereigns to whom +they were to be presented. + +By the ample provision that was made, it would almost seem that every +difficulty was anticipated, and certainly no individual was better +fitted than Lander to direct the outfit of the expedition, he having +been twice in the country, and had acquired a perfect knowledge of +the articles most in request by the natives, and particularly those +kinds which would be the most acceptable to the native chiefs. Every +thing that could be procured for the success, safety, comfort, and +happiness of the adventurous travellers was supplied in the most +bountiful manner, nor should it be omitted to state that an abundance +of trinkets, &c. &c. was shipped for the purpose of conciliating the +good will of the natives. No correct estimate could be formed of the +length of the absence of the expedition, it might, however, be +naturally inferred that it would not be great, as the steamers would +present a facility hitherto unknown in exploring the African rivers, +and that the progress thus obtained would in no way be impeded by the +caprice of any of the African chiefs in obtaining leave to proceed, +or paying a compulsory tribute &c. for such a favour. A glance at the +Quorra would almost convince any one that her implements of +destruction were such as to defy the whole condensed bow and arrow +force of Africa, and it was generally hoped, as the expedition was of +a trading description, conducted at the entire expense of a body of +Liverpool merchants, that the speculations would be attended with +profitable results, and finally with great advantages to open a trade +between this country and the whole of Western Africa. + +The expedition sailed from Liverpool in the month of July, 1822, and +put into Milford, there to wait for orders, and also for Richard +Lander who was expected to join them over land. They were also to +obtain at Milford clean bills of health. On Tuesday the 19th June the +Columbine brig and the Alburkha were towed out to sea by the Quorra, +which vessel returned to Milford to wait the arrival of Lander, and +then to sail immediately for Porto Praga on the African coast, the +place of rendezvous. + +From the unfortunate issue of the expedition we are excluded from the +general information, which would otherwise have been obtained, had +Lander survived to communicate the result of his researches on his +return to England. We know that he was bound in honour not to send +public intelligence, except to the owners of the vessels employed, +and therefore all the information that can be gleaned, is from his +private letters to his friends and relatives, and that even would be +necessarily confined to the news of his personal situation. The +expedition was expected to enter the Niger in six or seven weeks, and +to return to England in about nine months. + +On Sunday the 7th October, the expedition reached Cape Coast Castle +in seventy-two days after sailing from Milford Haven, after having +touched at the isle De Los, Sierra Leone and other points for a +supply of fuel for the two steamers. Some cases of fever had taken +place, but as yet no death had occurred. At Cape Coast, the governor +Maclean and the officers of the garrison treated their visitors with +the utmost kindness and hospitality. Here Lander fortunately secured +the services of his old tried servant Pascoe, as well as Jowdie, and +two natives of the Eboe country, who were likely to be of great +service to the expedition, one of them being the son of a chief, and +both intelligent, with a slight knowledge of the English language. +The Alburkha, of which vessel some fears were entertained, was found +to work admirably, exceeding the expectations of her commander and +the other officers attached to the expedition. They sailed from Cape +Coast Castle about the middle of October, for the river Nun, and +proceeded direct from that river to the river Niger. + +At the meeting of the geographical society of London in the month of +June 1833, the following letter was read, addressed to R. W. Ray, +esquire, from Richard Lander, dated---- + +Niger Expedition, River Nun, October 26, 1832. + +I have the honour to inform you that the expedition under my command +arrived here on the 20th instant, all well. I found on my arrival +here that the captain of the Liverpool brig Susan, had paid king Boy. +I hope you will be pleased to honour the bill. I have made king Boy a +handsome present from the ordnance stores you were good enough to +supply me with, and he accompanies me to the Eboe country to settle +the palaver with king Obie. King Boy and king Forday were very glad +to see me again, and say I am no man but a devil. I sail this evening +and, expect to reach the Eboe country in four days, and feel quite +confident of success. I find Mr. Alien sent out by the admiralty a +very agreeable companion. + +(Signed,) Richard Lander. + +From the account of the seaman who was the bearer of it from Richard +Lander to his brother in Liverpool, some further information was +obtained, that _all_ the vessels of the expedition had reached the +Eboe country previously to the sailors leaving the Nun river. The +seaman stated that the steamers stemmed the current bravely, and +ascended the Niger with apparent ease. + +The following extract of a letter from Sierra Leone, dated May 23, +contains some interesting intelligence respecting the expedition: + +The boats of his majesty's ship Curlew had boarded the Columbine +about the 20th April, the master of which vessel had died a few weeks +previously. The doctor on board the Columbine had received letters +from Mr. Lander dated from king Obie's palace at Eboe, about three +weeks after they had sailed from the entrance of the river Nun. King +Obie had treated them with much kindness, and had made Lander a +present of some canoes, with people to pilot them up the river. A few +days before their arrival at Eboe, the steamers sent their boats +ashore to cut wood. They were fired upon by the inhabitants of a +village, and obliged to return. The next morning a large number of +men were sent armed, these were immediately fired upon by the +natives. The Quorra then sent a signal rocket into the town, and +continued firing her long gun at intervals for an hour and a half. +The natives still continuing to fire, the crews of both the steamers +landed and drove them out of the town or village, and then burned it +to the ground. Three of the natives were found killed, and one was +dying, one or two of the English were slightly wounded. The news of +this engagement reached Eboe before the steamer, and Mr. Lander is of +opinion, it will have a salutary effect on the natives up the river, +and be the means of preventing any further resistance. Nine men are +said to have died before they left the Nun, and two or three +afterwards. There was also an American merchant brig, the Agenoria, +lying in the Nun. She had been fitted out by a company of merchants +of New Providence to explore the Niger. She had with her two small +schooners, which were to proceed up the river, while she remained at +the entrance. Nearly all the white men belonging to these vessels had +died, and the remainder appeared in the most wretched state, and they +had abandoned all intention of attempting to proceed up the river +with the schooners, it being considered impossible to do so with any +sailing vessel. The brig intended to procure a cargo of palm oil, and +proceed to the United States. The Agenoria was fitted out secretly by +the company, and had cleared out for a whaling voyage. + +No doubt whatever exists, and the sequel fully confirms the opinion, +that the conduct observed by the crews of the steamers in attacking +and destroying the town of the natives was highly impolitic and +uncalled for. It is true the natives had commenced the attack, and we +have only to refer to the accounts transmitted to us, of various +travellers on penetrating into the country of a savage people, and +especially a people of the depraved nature of the Africans, with whom +Lander had to deal, that they are generally the first to resort to +force, not so much with the hope of victory, as with the desire of +plunder. In the generality of cases, however, it is to be found that +the hostility on the part of the natives was more easy to be quelled +by a show of forbearance and an inclination to enter into terms of +amity with them, than by an open desire to meet force by force. +Lander was by no means ignorant of the African character, he came not +amongst them as a perfect stranger, and in all his former +transactions with the natives, he had invariably found that he +ultimately obtained their good will by a show of forbearance and +lenity, more than by a determined spirit of resistance and reprisal. +In no instance was this principle more completely verified than in +the travels of Major Denham, in which in several instances, had he +not maintained a complete control over his temper, on the insults and +affronts offered to him by the natives, the consequences, would +doubtless have been fatal to him, and although the natives were, in +the case of Lander, undoubtedly the aggressors, yet had a temper of +conciliation been manifested towards them, that spirit of hatred and +of vengeance would not have been awakened in their breasts, which led +to a most fatal catastrophe, and to the death of one of the most +enterprising travellers, who ever attempted to explore the interior +of Africa. + +For some reason not properly explained, Richard Lander, returned to +Fernando Po on the 1st May from the Quorra steam boat, which he had +left afloat in deep water, near the River Tchadda. From her he +descended the Niger in a native canoe, and arrived on board the brig +Columbine, which was lying in the Nun River, having been 13 days on +his passage. During this period he stopped to sleep every night at a +native village on the banks of the Niger. + +At Fernando Po, Mr. Lander was evidently very ill, though he was +rapidly recovering from an attack of the dysentery, with which he had +been afflicted for some months. His object in returning alone to +Fernando Po, was to procure medicines, as well as tea and other +condiments, for the use of the invalids on board the steam boats. The +reports of the grievous mortality which had prevailed on board the +steamers were confirmed by the arrival of Lander; the number of +deaths on board the vessels had indeed been frightfully great; no +fewer than twenty-five had perished before Mr. Lander undertook his +journey to the coast, including most of the officers and engineers. + +The following may be considered as the principal circumstances which +led to this lamentable result. The vessels were unfortunately +detained at a place called Attah, until Mr. Lander, accompanied by +one or two of his associates, went to see the king. They were very +hospitably received by his sable majesty, who was equipped in silk +velvet, and attended by about three hundred well-dressed youths, all +of them eunuchs, and forming a kind of body guard to their prince. + +This delay was followed by another still more vexatious. The larger +steam boat, was forced by the strength of the current on a sand bank, +where she was fixed for several weeks; till lifted into deep water by +the swelling of the river. Here she was examined, and found to have +sustained no damage, but owing to this unseasonable accident, as well +as the detention at Attah, and above all, to the deplorable loss of +life, which had ensued on board the vessels, the party had not in +their power to cultivate their mercantile speculations either to the +extent or so successfully as they wished, or as their friends +anticipated. + +Still, however, when Mr. Lander left the Quorra, they might be said +to have only begun to trade with the natives, and as there was +unquestionably an abundance of ivory in the country, there was reason +to hope that the adventure would be yet as prosperous in this point +of view as its spirited and enterprising proprietors could +reasonably desire. + +The great mortality which took place amongst the crews of the +vessels, was mainly attributed to the injudicious conduct of Captain +Harris, who, instead of pushing on direct for the Niger, spent a +great deal of time, as he coasted along, in examining inlets, &c., +which exposed the crew to the fatal fever, which committed such +ravages amongst them. Captain Harris himself fell a victim to his +want of judgement, and Lander, Laird, Lieutenant Alien, and the +captain of the Alburkha, were the only persons in office, who +survived, and but fourteen whites besides were left alive. + +The provisions were found to be uncommonly cheap and plentiful. A +bullock weighing two cwt. cost eight shillings. Fowls one penny each, +and other things in proportion, so that the victualling of thirty men +was not more than eighteen pence a day, including yams and rice. + +On the 18th May, Lander left Fernando Po in a native canoe as before, +in order to rejoin his companions, who were no doubt anxiously +awaiting his return. Richard Lander returned to Attah on the 21st +July, in high health and spirits, and immediately made preparations +for ascending the river in the Alburkha, accompanied by Lieutenant +Allen, and a medical man. His voyage from the coast in a canoe, +occupied him thirty-two days. From Attah, he wrote to his brother +John, of which the following is an interesting extract: + +"You know, that when we were here together, Abucco, chief of +Damaggoo, had been at variance with his brother for several years. On +arriving at the former place from the coast, I was sorry to find the +brothers, with their respective subjects, still engaged in that +petty, but obstinate and ferocious warfare, which had distinguished +the quarrel at its commencement. Determined, if possible, to effect a +reconciliation between them, I prevailed on our old friend Abucco to +accompany me to Attah, promising to introduce him to his brother, and +pledging my life for his safety. The meeting took place on the 22nd +November, and a highly interesting one it was, I assure you. One +party, preceded by Jowdie, and a few drummers, were introduced into a +large square enclosure. The chief seated on a kind of throne, was +surrounded by all his mallams, and a multitude of attendants. His +wives were seated under a verandah, from which were suspended several +handsome Turkey carpets, which served them for a screen. Abucco +instantly drew back, as he approached the throne, but, taking him by +the hand, I led, or rather pulled him towards his brother. At this +moment, his confidence seemed to have forsaken him entirely; his head +hung down on his breast, and I could feel him tremble violently. +Whilst I was displaying my presents to the chief of Attah, I +perceived him several times bestow a hasty and displeased look on his +brother, who had disengaged himself from my hand, and was sitting on +the ground. Though seven years had elapsed since their last meeting, +neither of the rulers uttered a word. The curiosity of the chief of +Attah, having in some measure been gratified, I immediately +introduced his brother to his notice, by paying him a high +compliment, which Abucco had certainly deserved. I then expressed the +regret I felt in witnessing the bad effects of the misunderstanding, +which had existed amongst them for so many years; insisted on the +necessity of brothers living in harmony, and said I was determined +not to quit the spot, until I had established a perfect +reconciliation between them. The chief was extremely disconcerted, +but he made no reply, I then desired Abucco to rise, and leading him +to his brother, I took the right hand of each, and pressing both +hands together, made them shake hands heartily, observing; You are +now friends, and may God keep you so. The brothers were deeply +affected, and neither of them could utter a syllable, for several +seconds afterwards. Every countenance beamed with delight at the +happy termination of the interview, and the multitude gave vent to +their feelings, in a loud, long, and general shout. For my part, I +need not say, I cannot tell the heartfelt gratification, I felt at +that moment. But this is not the most important good, that I have +been the humble means of effecting at this place. From time +immemorable it has been a custom with the rulers of Attah, to +sacrifice human beings on rejoicing days, and on all public +occasions. At the interview, which I have just described to you, two +poor creatures were brought before us to be slain, in order that +their blood might be sprinkled about the yard. I shuddered at the +proposal, and begged with earnestness, that nothing of the kind might +be done, I assured the chief he would one day have to give an account +to God, of every life he might wantonly destroy; and also made him +sensible, that though after death, his body would moulder into dust, +his soul would live for ever, and that it would be happy or +miserable, in proportion to the good or bad actions he had performed, +or might yet perform in this world. The chief was evidently much +affected at my words, and desired his followers to unbind the +intended victims, and remove them from the yard. He then made a +solemn promise, to put an end to the custom of sacrificing human +beings. As soon as this declaration was made known to the mallams, +and the crowd of attendants in the yard, they all held up their hands +in token of approbation, and shouted for joy. It is now seven or +eight months since this promise was made, and I am happy to say, it +has been religiously kept." + +As further lights continued to be thrown upon the course of the +Niger, that geographical problem of many years, and as its importance +in a commercial point of view, opening a way into the interior of +Africa, becomes more appreciable, our attention was naturally drawn +to every circumstance connected with its exploration. Thus the +expeditions of Mungo Park excited a strong sensation, and have left a +mournful recollection on the public mind, and thus the equally +adventurous, and noble, and more successful enterprises of the +brothers, Landers, and especially of Richard, whose narrative of his +third voyage we are now relating, have fixed the admiration of their +country. This feeling was probably greatly enhanced, as the prospect +of utility is certainly much enlarged by the remarkable coincidence +of these gallant efforts, with the application of the navigating +powers of steam. There might have been generations of Landers, with +lives devoted to the cause, the sole reward of which would have been +the discovery of a river's source and termination, but now there was +combined with that end, the cheering hope of extending civilization, +of strangling the hydra, slavery, in its cradle, and of diffusing +comfort and happiness over a wide quarter of the globe. Assuredly it +is a glorious thing to be signally and prosperously engaged in laying +the foundation for a consummation so devoutly to be wished. + +Lander had not made great progress in the interior, before he found +that he was deficient in some particular kinds of goods, which were +required for the markets in the interior, and he, therefore, +descended the river in a canoe, and embarked on board the Curlew ship +of war, to convey him to Cape Coast Castle, where he expected to meet +with the articles which he required. Having succeeded in effecting +his purchases, he returned to the mouth of the Nun, thence to +_reascend the Niger for the third time_, and endeavour to penetrate +as far up the river as Boussa. + +It is, however, highly interesting to know, that previously to his +last return to the Coast, Lander and Lieutenant Alien, had +fortunately reached Rabba, a large Fellata town, in the iron steam +boat, and for the period of thirteen or fourteen days had maintained +a friendly intercourse, and carried on an advantageous trade with its +inhabitants. The depth of the water at that place was between two and +three fathoms, and as far as could be seen beyond it, the Niger was +free from rocks and other obstructions, and assumed a majestic and +very encouraging appearance. For the reason already mentioned, Lander +was obliged to return to the coast, though it was supposed that he +hastily quitted Rabba on account of some unfavourable rumours which +had reached him, to the effect that the people wished to inveigle our +countrymen on shore, in order to seize their persons and destroy +their boat. This is, however, an improbable supposition, for as far +as could be ascertained, the general bearing of the inhabitants +towards the English was any thing but hostile. This important town +was inhabited by Fellatas and negroes, and fully realized the +expectations that had been formed of it, as regards its extent, its +wealth, and its population. A few Tuaricks from the borders of the +desert, and other Arabs were observed by our countrymen in the +streets of Rabba. + +Another important feature of this expedition is, the circumstance +that the travellers ascended the river Tchadda, as high as one +hundred and fifty miles from its junction with the Niger. At that +point, and at some distance below and above it, the river was found +to be intersected with islands, and comparatively shallow, +alternately becoming broad and narrow in proportion as its channel +was free from, or obstructed by these islands. No traces of +inhabitants appeared on the banks of this very interesting river, and +Lander and his valuable coadjutor were compelled to return to the +Niger for want of provisions. All the natives in this part of the +country agreed in the assertion, that the Tchadda communicates with +Lake Tchad, the inland sea of Africa. They do not hazard this as a +mere conjecture, but state it with confidence, as a well-known and +undisputed fact. This being the case, though it be at variance with +the opinion entertained of it by many of our scientific countrymen, +the concurrent testimony of the natives, who, after all, are better +acquainted with the geography of their own country, is entitled to +respect. It should also be remembered, that the Tchadda has not +received its name, any more than its gigantic namesake, from +Europeans, but from the natives themselves, who have never bestowed +on it any other appellation. On a small island, near Attah, Lander +erected a kind of mud fort, which would answer the purpose of a depot +for British goods. This place has been named English island, and it +possesses peculiar facilities for trading purposes in that part of +the country. The king of Attah, who seemed to have formed an +attachment to Lander, presented him with four small but very +beautiful horses, which he succeeded in conveying to Fernando Po. +Poor old Pascoe the black, who buried Belzoni, and whose name occurs +so frequently in Clapperton's journal, and the narrative of the +Landers, as a faithful and brave servant, died at Attah. + +For some time, no information which could be relied upon reached this +country, relative to the progress of the expedition, although some +sinister reports were afloat relative to the fatal termination of it. +At length, however, all suspense was extinguished by the arrival of +an individual belonging to the expedition, who gave the following +account of the melancholy manner in which Richard Lander met his +death, and which was subsequently corroborated by Mr. Moore, a +medical gentleman attached to the expedition, and who was himself an +eyewitness of the whole murderous scene. The particulars of the +mournful event of Lander's death are thus given: + +"Richard Lander and his associates entered the Brass River, and began +ascending it in excellent spirits. With them were two or three negro +musicians, who, when the labours of the day were over, cheered their +countrymen with their instruments, at the sound of which they danced +and sang in company, while the few Englishmen be longing to the +party, amused themselves with angling on the banks of the stream, in +which, though not very expert, they were tolerably successful. In +this pleasing manner, stemming a strong current by day, and resting +from their toil at night, Richard Lander and his little band, totally +unapprehensive of danger, and unprepared to overcome or meet it, +proceeded slowly up the Niger. At some distance from its mouth, and +on his way thither, they met King Jacket, a relative of King Boy, and +one of the heartless and sullen chiefs, who rule over a large tract +of marshy country on the banks of the Brass River. This individual +was hailed by our travellers, and a present of tobacco and rum was +offered to him, he accepted it with a murmur of dissatisfaction, and +his eyes sparkled with malignity, as he said in his own language, +'White man will never reach Eboe this time.' This sentence was +immediately interpreted to Lander by a native of the country, a boy, +who afterwards bled to death from a wound in the knee, but Lander +made light of the matter, and attributed Jacket's prophecy, for so it +proved, to the petulance and malice of his disposition. Soon, +however, he discovered his error, but it was too late to correct it, +or evade the danger which threatened him. On ascending as far inland +as sixty or seventy miles, the English approached an island, and +their progress in the larger canoe was effectually obstructed by the +shallowness of the stream. Amongst the trees and underwood that grew +on this island, and on both banks of the river in its vicinity, large +ambuscades of the natives had previously been formed, and shortly +after the principal canoe had grounded, its unfortunate crew, busily +employed to heave it into deep water, were saluted with irregular but +heavy and continued discharges of musketry. So great was Lander's +confidence in the sincerity and good will of the natives, that he +could not at first believe that the destructive fire, by which he was +literally surrounded, was any thing more than a mode of salutation +they had adopted in honour of his arrival. But the Kroomen who had +leaped into the boat, and who fell wounded by his side, soon +convinced him of his mistake, and plainly discovered to him the +fearful nature of the peril into which he had fallen so unexpectedly, +and the difficulty he would experience in extricating himself from +it. Encouraging his comrades with his voice and gestures, Lander +prepared to defend himself to the last, and a loud and simultaneous +shout from his little party assured him that they shared his +feelings, and would follow his example. Meanwhile, several of the +savages having come out of their concealment, were brought down by +the shots of the English, but Lander whilst stopping to pick up a +cartridge from the bottom of the canoe, was struck near the hip by a +musket ball. The shock made him stagger, but he did not fall, and he +continued cheering on his men. Soon finding, however, his ammunition +expended, himself seriously wounded, the courage of his Kroomen +beginning to droop, and the firing of his assailants, instead of +diminishing become more general than ever, he resolved to attempt +getting into the smaller canoe, afloat at a short distance, as the +only remaining chance of preserving a single life. For this purpose, +abandoning their property, the survivors threw themselves into the +stream, and with much difficulty, for the strength of the current was +incredibly strong, most of them succeeded in accomplishing their +object. No sooner was this observed by the men in ambush, than they +started up and rushed out with wild and hideous yells; canoes that +had been hidden behind the luxuriant foliage which overhung the +river, were in an instant pushed out into the middle of the stream, +and pursued the fugitives with surprising velocity; whilst numbers of +people, with savage antics and furious gesticulations, ran and danced +along the beach, uttering loud and startling cries. The Kroomen +maintained on this occasion, the good reputation which their +countrymen have deservedly acquired; their lives depended on their +energy and skill, and they impelled their slender bark through the +water with unrivalled swiftness. The pursuit was kept up for four +hours, and poor Lander, without ammunition or any defensive weapon +whatever, was exposed to the straggling fire, as well as the +insulting mockery of his pursuers. One incident, which occurred in +the flight, deserves to be recorded. A white man named T----, +completely overpowered by his fears, refused to fire on the savages, +who were within a paddle's length of him, but stood up in the canoe, +with a loaded musket in his hand, beseeching them by his gestures to +take him prisoner, rather than deprive him of his life. While in the +act of making this dastardly appeal, a musket ball from the enemy +entered his mouth, and killed him on the spot. The others behaved +with the greatest coolness and intrepidity. The fugitives gained on +their pursuers, and when they found the chase discontinued +altogether, Lander stood up for the last time in the canoe, and being +seconded by his remaining associates, he waved his hat, and gave a +last cheer in sight of his adversaries. He then became sick and faint +from loss of blood, and sank back exhausted in the arms of those who +were nearest to him. Rallying shortly afterwards, the nature of his +wound was communicated to him by Mr. Moore, a young surgeon from +England, who had accompanied him up the river, and whose conduct +throughout this disastrous affray was most admirable. The ball could +not be extracted, and Lander felt convinced his career would soon be +terminated. When the state of excitement to which his feelings had +been wrought, gave place to the languor which generally succeeds +powerful excitement of any kind, the invalid's wound pained him +exceedingly, and for several hours afterwards, he endured with +calmness the most intense suffering. From that time he could neither +sit up, nor turn on his couch, nor hold a pen, but while he was +proceeding down the river in a manner so melancholy, and so very +different from the mode in which he was ascending it only the day +before, he could not help indulging in various reflections, and he +talked much of his wife and children, his friends, his distant home, +and his blighted expectations. It was a period of darkness, and +distress, and sorrow to him, but his natural cheerfulness soon +regained its ascendancy over his mind, and freely forgiving all his +enemies, he resigned himself into the hands of his Maker, and derived +considerable benefit from the consolations of religion. He arrived +with his surviving companions at Fernando Po on the 25th January. It +was there found that the ball had entered his hip, and worked its way +down to the thick of the thigh. He died on the 2nd February. His +clothes and papers were all lost. + +"Various conjectures have been urged as to the probable cause of this +cold-blooded and heartless attack on Lander and his party. Some +persons imagine that the natives had been stimulated to the +perpetration of this disgraceful deed by the Portuguese and South +American slave dealers, who have considerable influence in the +country, and whose interests would unquestionably decline by the +introduction into the interior of British subjects and British +manufactures. It is, however, generally supposed that the hostility +of the natives may be in some degree traced to the shameful and +scandalous conduct of some of the Liverpool merchants, who had used +their private influence to poison the minds of the natives by +attributing particular motives to the travellers, which were at +variance with the interests of the country, and subversive of the +authority of the chiefs. Nor is this scarcely a matter of doubt, +when we peruse the following extract from a letter addressed by John +Lander to the editor of the Literary Gazette. + +"I cannot close this letter, without apprising you of a fact, which +will appear incredible to you. Can you believe me when I assert, on +the most unquestionable authority, that there are merchants here (the +letter was dated from Liverpool) so heartless and inhuman as to +instruct the masters of their vessels who trade to the African coast +_to refuse any assistance to the expedition of which it may stand in +need; to reject all letters that may be sent from the parties +connected with it, and, in fine, to hold no communication whatever +with the steamers or the brig_, does it not startle you, that +jealousy and selfishness can go so far? Believe me, I blush at the +reflection of a crime so hideous and un-English like as this?" In a +postscript, John Lander says, "The fact of the merchants' +instructions to the masters of their vessels may be safely depended +on. Nothing can be more true. They have gone even farther than I have +ventured to hint. _They have taken measures to prejudice the minds of +the natives against the expedition_." + +Thus is human life, thus are the interests of science sacrificed on +the shrine of a sordid love of gain and pelf. It is true that the +merit of the fitting out of the expedition belongs to the +enterprising spirit and the liberality of a few Liverpool merchants, +but greatly indeed is that merit eclipsed, in a general point of +view, when it is considered, that in the same town could be found a +set of individuals, who, for the purpose of enabling them to carry on +an illegal and infamous traffic, could be the instruments of +circumventing the life of an individual, who was nobly employed in +the extension of geographical science, and who was perhaps actually +laying the foundation of the civilization of the countries through +which he might pass, and extending the commercial relations of his +country. An indelible stain will it be upon the merchants of +Liverpool, who could so far forget that they were Englishmen, as to +make a horde of barbarous savages their instruments for the +destruction of an expedition by which the general interests of the +human race might be promoted, our commercial relations extended, and +ultimately, the blessings of Christianity diffused over the dark and +unenlightened children of Africa. + +As a palliative to the statement of John Lander, and as some relief +to the dark picture which we have just exhibited, it must be +confessed, that when the circumstances are taken into consideration, +which have already been detailed, when Lander first visited the Eboe +country, his conduct was not exactly regulated by prudence or policy, +in proceeding towards a country, not in the simple guise and +unostentatious manner of the solitary traveller, but attended by a +force sufficient to excite the fears and jealousy of the native +chiefs, and to instil into their suspicious minds the belief, that +the travellers, whom they had formerly seen in their country, had +returned, equipped with the means of subjugating the country, and +reducing the chiefs themselves, perhaps to a state of slavery. The +very vessels in which they presented themselves, were sufficient to +strike terror and alarm into the minds of the superstitious natives. +They knew not by what character to describe them; to their ignorant +and untutored understandings, they appeared to be impelled by some +power of witchcraft, for which they could not in the least account; +to behold a large vessel impelled even against the stream with no +inconsiderable velocity, and no power manifested by which that speed +could be obtained, set their minds a wondering, and obtained for +Lander the character of the devil. As the devil, therefore, had +arrived in their country, it became an act of the most imperious duty +to force him to abandon it, by any means which could suggest +themselves, and no one certainly could be more effectual than to put +themselves in ambuscade, and take the first opportunity of killing +him at once. It must also be taken into consideration, that the +report of the destruction of the town and the murder of some of the +natives by the crew of the Alburkha, had spread itself all along the +banks of the river, and had spread consternation and alarm amongst +the natives, who apprehended that the same fate might befal +themselves. Another opinion was entertained, that the Brass people, +perceiving that their lucrative carrying trade between the coast and +the inland countries would be annihilated, if they suffered the +English to trade with the natives of the interior in their own +vessels, formed a coalition with the people of Bonny, whose interests +would likewise be affected by the new order of things, and that these +men, aided by the savage inhabitants of the country residing in the +vicinity of the spot, where the ruthless and cowardly assault was +made, met together and resolved on the destruction of the unoffending +Englishmen. + +From what cause soever it originated, this much is certain, that the +attack had been premeditated, that the arrangements of the assassins +had been made in a methodical and skilful manner, and that Brass and +Bonny canoes were engaged in the assault. Those who have had the best +means of knowing the character and disposition of the Brass people, +and their neighbours of Bonny, whose treacherous manoeuvering can +only be equalled by their insatiable rapacity, consider the last as +by far the most probable hypothesis, and believe that King Boy, +notwithstanding his affectation of sympathy for the sufferers, and +his apparent distress on beholding his friend and benefactor mortally +wounded, was nevertheless at the bottom of the plot, and had exerted +his influence to bring that plot to maturity, in conjunction with the +malignant wretch, who foretold the eventful catastrophe. Boy having +with alacrity joined the party on all former occasions, when they +ascended the river, and having obstinately refused to accompany them +on this, strengthens the supposition that he was well aware of the +formidable danger, which awaited them, but in which it is plain he +had no ambition to participate. + +The fate of Lander, on whom the eyes of all England were directed as +the individual most likely to extend the benefits of civilization to +the benighted Africans, and to open fresh sources of wealth to his +enterprising countrymen, excited in all breasts the most unfeigned +regret; to the honour of the inhabitants of Truro, the native place +of the Landers, it must be recorded that the intelligence of the +premature death of Richard Lander, no sooner reached that town, than +a meeting of his fellow townsmen took place, which was held at the +council hall, at which Humphry Willyams, Esquire, presided. After +expressing their extreme regret, the assembly resolved: + +"To express its sincere sympathy with the sorrowing family, and its +sense of the loss which science, commerce, and civilization had +sustained by the death of this enterprising traveller. Further that +the sum of £84 having been raised for the purpose of presenting +pieces of plate to Messrs. Richard and John Lander, and the altered +circumstances of the case having induced the survivor generously to +decline any participation in the fund so raised, and to request that +the same might be appropriated to some other memorial of the respect +and esteem of his native town, for his lamented brother; it was their +opinion that if an adequate amount be obtained, a column should be +erected in their native town, to commemorate the intrepidity of the +two brothers, and that an appeal be made to the county to co-operate +in their object." + +About ten days after, a second meeting took place, when the following +address was printed, and unanimously adopted: + +TO THE INHABITANTS OF CORNWALL. + +"The lamentable fate of the African traveller, Richard Lander, calls +for some marked expression of public sympathy and respect, and more +especially does it behove Cornishmen to show their esteem and sorrow +for their adventurous countryman. Whether to testify this natural +sentiment, or to declare our admiration at the energy of mind, which +raised the departed and his enterprising brother from humble station +to such enviable pre-eminence, or to evince that deep interest, which +every philanthropist and Christian must feel, in all that concerns +the civilization of Africa, we are assured there can be but one +opinion as to the propriety of raising some lasting memorial of the +travellers. The effects likely to result from their discoveries, +followed up by such indomitable resolution as characterized Richard +Lander, may be inferred from the melancholy circumstance that this +courageous man has in all probability fallen a victim to the +suspicion of those concerned in the atrocious slave trade. But the +grand object has been accomplished, though great the cost: the path +now opened for mercantile enterprise, will make plain the way, for +civilization, freedom, and religion. PARK, DENHAM, RITCHIE, +CLAPPERTON and LANDER, have led the forlorn hope, against the +seemingly impregnable fastnesses of African barbarism, and though +each has perished, the cause of humanity has been advanced. At once, +therefore, to celebrate the progress of discovery, and to record +individual merit, it is proposed to erect a Column in some +conspicuous part of Truro, the birth place of the Landers, which, +while it commemorates the fate of one brother, will render a just +tribute to both, and to this end it is intended to apply the amount +already obtained for a testimonial of respect of another description, +which sum, however, being inadequate, the committee appeals to the +liberality of the county, confident that contributions will be +immediately forthcoming to render the memorial worthy of the +occasion." + +Notwithstanding this forcible appeal to the compatriots of Landers it +was some time before a sufficiency could be collected for the +erection of the monument; success, however, at last attended the +exertions of the committee, and the monument was erected; and +although no blazoned escutcheon is engraved upon it, nor pompous +epitaph declares the virtues of the departed, yet to the ages yet +unborn it will rouse the spirit of compatriot pride, when the +traveller views the memorial, and with exultation he will exclaim, +Richard Lander was my countryman. + +In investigating the advantages which may be supposed to flow to the +country by the discoveries of the Landers, we fear that they have +been much over-rated, for great and almost insuperable obstacles have +to be surmounted, before the savages of Africa can be brought to +relinquish their usual habits, or in any manner to forego those +advantages which the traffic in human flesh so bountifully presents +to them. The chiefs, who rule over the uncivilized hordes, who are +located on the banks of the Quorra, are all engaged in a kind of +commercial relation with the Europeans, by whom it is found necessary +to conciliate them, by sometimes, the most obsequious conduct, +degrading to a man of civilization, when shown towards an ignorant, +tyrannical, and despotic tyrant. Any attempt to force a channel of +commerce, beyond the territories of these savage chiefs, without +having first, either by presents or other means, obtained their +co-operation, is too visionary a scheme for even the most +enterprising adventurer to dare to undertake. King Jacket and King +Boy, with the king of Eboe, may be said to be in the command of the +estuary of the Niger, and, therefore, any attempt to establish a +channel of commerce without allowing them to participate in the +profits, or to be permitted to exact a duty on all goods passing by +water through their territory, must necessarily prove abortive. The +jealousy of their character would be aroused, they would see in the +traffic of the European a gradual decline of their own emoluments, +and by degrees a total exclusion from those branches of commerce, +from which they had hitherto derived the greatest profit. That the +commerce of the interior of Africa offers the most tempting +advantages to the enterprising British merchant cannot be doubted, +for the two articles alone of indigo and ivory would repay the +speculator with a profit of nearly 1000 per cent. This circumstance +was sufficient to arouse the commercial spirit of the merchants of +Glasgow, who, on the return of the Landers with the information of +the discovery of the termination of the Niger, proceeded immediately +to form a company, having a capital of £10,000, for establishing a +commercial intercourse with the chiefs of the interior of Africa, +forgetting at the time, that before they could reach the territories +of those chiefs, they had in the persons of King Boy, King Jacket, +and King Forday, and the king of the Eboe country, a gauntlet to run +through, and a kind of quadruple alliance to extinguish, without +which all their efforts would be in vain. The death of Lander put an +end to this speculation, as it was then clearly seen that unless the +actual constitution of the countries situate on the banks of the +Quorra, could be placed under a different authority, and the people +brought to a state of positive submission, it were futile to expect +any solid or permanent advantages from any commercial relations they +might form. The insalubrity of the climate, so very injurious to a +European constitution, was also a great drawback to the prosecution +of those commercial advantages, which the discovery of the +termination of the Niger offered to this country; it was literally +sending men to die a premature death to embark them on board of an +African trader, and we have the authority of the late Captain +Fullerton for stating, that he scarcely ever knew an individual who, +although he might escape the pestilential fevers of the country for +the second, and even the third or fourth time, that did not +eventually die. Notwithstanding, however, the latter serious drawback +to the prosecution of our geographical knowledge of the interior of +Africa, there are yet to be found amongst us some hardy, gallant +spirits, who, fearless of every danger, and willing to undergo every +privation which the human constitution can endure, are still anxious +to expose themselves to such appalling perils, for the promotion of +science and the general welfare of the human race. Amongst those +individuals, a young gentleman of the name of Coulthurst has rendered +himself conspicuous. He was the only surviving son of C. Coulthurst, +Esquire, of Sandirvay, near Norwich, and was thirty-five years of age +at the time of his death. He was educated at Eton, studied afterwards +at Brazen Nose College, Oxford, and then went to Barbadoes, but from +his infancy his heart was set on African enterprise. His family are +still in possession of some of his Eton school books, in which maps +of Africa, with his supposed travels into the interior, are +delineated; and at Barbadoes he used to take long walks in the heat +of the day, in order to season himself for the further exposure, +which he never ceased to contemplate. His eager desires also took a +poetical form, and a soliloquy of Mungo Park, and other pieces of a +similar description, of considerable merit, were written by him at +different times. The stimulus that at length decided him, however, +was the success of the Landers. He feared that if he delayed longer, +another expedition would be fitted out on a grand scale, and leave +nothing which an individual could attempt. + +It was in December 1831, that Messrs. Coulthurst and Tyrwhitt were +introduced to the council of the Geographical Society, as being +about to proceed at their own expense to the mouth of the Quorra, +with the view of endeavouring to penetrate thence eastward to the +Bahr-Abiad; and although their preparations were not on such a scale +as to warrant any very sanguine hopes of success, yet it was felt to +be a duty on the part of the society to patronize so spirited an +undertaking. They were accordingly placed in communication with +Colonel Leake, and other members of the late African Association, +whose advice it was thought could not fail to be of service to them. +They were also introduced to Captain Owen and to Mr. Lander, the +value of whose experience in planning their operations was obvious. +And the expedition being brought under the notice of his majesty's +government, the loan of a chronometer was obtained for it, with +strong letters of introduction and recommendation to the officers +commanding the naval and military forces of the crown along the +African coast. + +The party sailed from the Downs on the 1st January 1832, and arrived +at Bathurst St. Mary's on the Gambia on the 28th of the same month. +Both travellers were somewhat indisposed during the voyage, and the +sun after their arrival so seriously affected Mr. Tyrwhitt, that he +here yielded to the repeated representations of his companion and +others, and returned home. The following is an extract of a letter +received from Mr. Coulthurst, dated Bathurst, 1st February 1832, and +the style is clearly indicative of the superior qualifications of his +mind: + +"After a conference and palaver with some of the native chiefs, +amongst whose grotesque forms and equipments you would have laughed +to have seen me perched this morning, sipping palm wine; I have made +up my mind to take the southern bank of this river, through Fooladoo +to Sego. A messenger from the Almana of Bondou, who has undertaken to +bring the gum trade here from the Senegal, is now at Bathurst, and +the merchants are willing to assist in making up a coffila, which +will enable us I trust to prosecute our journey in safety. Though I +shall not thus reach the main object of Funda so directly as if I had +had the good fortune to overtake the Pluto, it would be scarcely +possible for me to do this now before the rainy season; and though I +shall be a few weeks later in reaching my destination, I shall have +the satisfaction of tracing the _whole_ river, and giving the +position of all the remarkable places, which neither Caillie nor +Lander were able to do. There is now no earthly chance of the +observations made by Park seeing the light, for Mr. Ainslie showed me +yesterday his last letter from Sansanding, which I perused with much +interest. You are aware that nothing but the unfortunate occurrence +of the Fellatas' conquests with the period of his expedition, and his +being mistaken for one of their parties, occasioned its unhappy +result; and by striking across the mountains, which we shall do at +Baranco, about four hundred miles up, we shall have only twenty-four +days' land journey to the mighty Niger, where he has scarcely command +of water enough to float a canoe. + +"The climate here is so very superior to that in the Bights of Benin +and Biafra, that after Barbadoes, where shade is unknown, it really +seems comparatively cold; I took a stroll of half a dozen miles +to-day before breakfast, which I could not have done, without feeling +languid afterwards, in the West Indies, but Tyrwhitt never could have +borne the breathing oven of the Gold Coast. Everything reminds me +here of the near neighbourhood of the desert; the toke and turban +very general, every man, not a Christian, a Musselman, and what seems +strange to European eyes, persons in the coarsest checks with gold +ornaments to the value of hundreds of dollars. + +"The beautiful harnessed antelope, which it is really a sin to shoot, +is common in the bush, and milk, honey, and rice, are to be had in +most of the negro villages, this being quite the dairy country of +Africa. But then there are mosquitoes, that madden the best-tempered +folk, and holy men with their eyes on the Koran, ready to dirk you +for the slightest subject of difference, and it is curious to see the +strangest characters of this sort well received and admitted to a +familiarity at government house, because they have much interest in +the country, and it is politic just now to speak them fair." + +Having concluded his arrangements for proceeding through the Enyong +and Eboe countries, he intended to proceed up the Calebar River, and +thence over land to Funda. He arrived without any particular accident +in the Eboe country, but the king of that people refused to let him +pass, and he was, therefore, obliged to return to Calebar, and thence +it was his intention to take a passage on board the Agnes for +Fernando Po. The refusal of the king of the Eboe country, did not +proceed from any distrust or jealousy on his part, but a most +sanguinary war was raging in the interior, and he, therefore, +considered the life of the traveller to be in danger. He had not been +exposed to any very severe fatigue, but his disappointment was great, +and he laboured under considerable debility and depression of +spirits. He died without much suffering on the second day after +embarking on board the Agnes. + +Thus perished another victim in the cause of African discovery, but +still there are hearts to be found, who are willing in the cause of +science to brave every peril, for the purpose of enlarging our +knowledge of the interior of the African continent, and opening fresh +sources to the skill and industry of our merchants. The Rev. Mr. Wolf +is now on his journey to Timbuctoo, and Lieutenant Wilkinson is +following up the discoveries of Lander; of them we may say with the +poet:-- + +"Fortuna audaces juvat." + +FINIS. + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Lander's Travels, by Robert Huish + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LANDER'S TRAVELS *** + +***** This file should be named 12667-8.txt or 12667-8.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/1/2/6/6/12667/ + + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, +set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to +copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to +protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. Project +Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you +charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission. If you +do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the +rules is very easy. You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose +such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and +research. They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do +practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks. Redistribution is +subject to the trademark license, especially commercial +redistribution. + + + +*** START: FULL LICENSE *** + +THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE +PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK + +To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free +distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work +(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project +Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project +Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at +https://gutenberg.org/license). + + +Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic works + +1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to +and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property +(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all +the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy +all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession. +If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the +terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or +entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8. + +1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be +used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who +agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few +things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works +even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See +paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement +and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. See paragraph 1.E below. + +1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation" +or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual works in the +collection are in the public domain in the United States. If an +individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are +located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from +copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative +works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg +are removed. Of course, we hope that you will support the Project +Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by +freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of +this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with +the work. You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by +keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project +Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others. + +1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern +what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are in +a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, check +the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement +before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or +creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project +Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no representations concerning +the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United +States. + +1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: + +1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate +access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently +whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the +phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project +Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed, +copied or distributed: + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + +1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived +from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is +posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied +and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees +or charges. If you are redistributing or providing access to a work +with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the +work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 +through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the +Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or +1.E.9. + +1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted +with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution +must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional +terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms will be linked +to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the +permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work. + +1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this +work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. + +1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this +electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without +prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with +active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project +Gutenberg-tm License. + +1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, +compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any +word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access to or +distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than +"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version +posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org), +you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a +copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon +request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other +form. Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. + +1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, +performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works +unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. + +1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing +access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided +that + +- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from + the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method + you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is + owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he + has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the + Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments + must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you + prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax + returns. Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and + sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the + address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to + the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation." + +- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies + you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he + does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm + License. You must require such a user to return or + destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium + and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of + Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any + money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the + electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days + of receipt of the work. + +- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free + distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set +forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from +both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael +Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark. Contact the +Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below. + +1.F. + +1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable +effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread +public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm +collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain +"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or +corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual +property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a +computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by +your equipment. + +1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right +of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project +Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all +liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal +fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT +LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE +PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH F3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE +TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE +LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR +INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH +DAMAGE. + +1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a +defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can +receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a +written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you +received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with +your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you with +the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a +refund. If you received the work electronically, the person or entity +providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to +receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If the second copy +is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further +opportunities to fix the problem. + +1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth +in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS' WITH NO OTHER +WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO +WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. + +1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied +warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages. +If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the +law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be +interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by +the applicable state law. The invalidity or unenforceability of any +provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions. + +1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the +trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone +providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance +with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production, +promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works, +harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees, +that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do +or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm +work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any +Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause. + + +Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm + +Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of +electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers +including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It exists +because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from +people in all walks of life. + +Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the +assistance they need, is critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's +goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will +remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure +and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations. +To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation +and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4 +and the Foundation web page at https://www.pglaf.org. + + +Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive +Foundation + +The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit +501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the +state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal +Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification +number is 64-6221541. Its 501(c)(3) letter is posted at +https://pglaf.org/fundraising. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent +permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. + +The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S. +Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered +throughout numerous locations. Its business office is located at +809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email +business@pglaf.org. Email contact links and up to date contact +information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official +page at https://pglaf.org + +For additional contact information: + Dr. Gregory B. Newby + Chief Executive and Director + gbnewby@pglaf.org + + +Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation + +Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide +spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of +increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be +freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest +array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations +($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt +status with the IRS. + +The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating +charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United +States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a +considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up +with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations +where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To +SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any +particular state visit https://pglaf.org + +While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we +have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition +against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who +approach us with offers to donate. + +International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make +any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from +outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. + +Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation +methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other +ways including including checks, online payments and credit card +donations. To donate, please visit: https://pglaf.org/donate + + +Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. + +Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm +concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared +with anyone. For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project +Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support. + + +Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S. +unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not necessarily +keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. + + +Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: + + https://www.gutenberg.org + +This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, +including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to +subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. |