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| author | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 04:40:13 -0700 |
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| committer | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 04:40:13 -0700 |
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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/12539-0.txt b/12539-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..68439d1 --- /dev/null +++ b/12539-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,4998 @@ +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 12539 *** + +[Illustration: A MANDINGO CHIEF, and his HEADMAN, in their COSTUME, & other +NATIVES] + + + + + OBSERVATIONS + UPON THE + WINDWARD COAST OF AFRICA, + THE + RELIGION, CHARACTER, CUSTOMS, &c. + OF THE NATIVES; + WITH A + SYSTEM UPON WHICH THEY MAY BE CIVILIZED, + AND A + KNOWLEDGE ATTAINED OF THE INTERIOR OF THIS EXTRAORDINARY + QUARTER OF THE GLOBE; + AND UPON + THE NATURAL AND COMMERCIAL RESOURCES OF THE COUNTRY; + MADE IN THE YEARS 1805 AND 1806. + + BY JOSEPH CORRY. + + WITH AN APPENDIX, + CONTAINING + A LETTER TO LORD HOWICK, ON THE MOST SIMPLE AND EFFECTUAL + MEANS OF ABOLISHING THE SLAVE TRADE. + + + + LONDON: +PRINTED FOR G. AND W. NICOL, BOOKSELLERS TO HIS MAJESTY, PALL-MALL; + AND JAMES ASPERNE, CORNHILL. + BY W. BULMER AND CO. CLEVELAND ROW, ST. JAMES'S + 1807. + + + + + TO + THE RIGHT HONOURABLE + LORD VISCOUNT CASTLEREAGH, + ONE OF HIS MAJESTY'S PRINCIPAL SECRETARIES + OF STATE FOR FOREIGN AFFAIRS. + + + + MY LORD, + + +Hightly flattered by your Lordship's polite condescension, in permitting me +to inscribe to you the following Pages, I return your Lordship my most +unfeigned thanks. + +If they meet your Lordship's approbation, and that of a discerning Public; +or if they tend in the most remote degree to excite more intelligent +efforts and more active enterprise on behalf of the unenlightened African, +or to augment the Commerce of the United Kingdom with a Country, now in +danger of falling into the hands of our Enemies, I shall feel an ample +reward for the risques and dangers to which I have been exposed in +collecting these Fragments; while the occasion gives me the opportunity of +subscribing myself, + + + With grateful acknowledgments, + Your Lordship's + Most obedient, and devoted humble Servant, + + + + JOSEPH CORRY, + +PREFACE. + +With becoming deference, I shall endeavour to illustrate in the following +pages, the observations I have personally made upon the Coast of Africa, +and to give the information I have obtained from an extended circle of +Chiefs, and native Tribes, relative to its Inhabitants, their Religion, +Habits and Customs, the natural productions and commercial resources, &c. +and attempt to delineate the most eligible grounds upon which the condition +of the African may be effectually improved, and our commercial relations be +preserved with that important quarter of the globe. + +Though deeply impressed with the importance of the subject, and my own +incompetency, I obtrude myself upon Public notice, governed by this +reflection, that I am stimulated by an ardent zeal for the prosperity of my +Country, and am animated by a philanthropic solicitude for the effectual +manumission of the African, from his enslaved customs, his superstitious +idolatry, and for the enlargement of his intellectual powers. + +I shall guard against the sacrifice of truth to abstracted principles; and +if in the most remote degree, I excite the interference of my countrymen in +behalf of the African, extend our commerce, and enlarge the circle of +civilized and Christian Society, I shall think that I have neither +travelled, nor written in vain. + +Africa is a country hitherto but little known; those in general who have +visited it, have been either inadequate to research, or have been absorbed +in the immediate attainment of gain; moreover the European Traveller in +that country has to contend with the combined influence of the native +jealousies of its inhabitants, their hereditary barbarism, obstinate +ferocity, and above all, an uncongenial climate. To surmount these +difficulties, commerce is the most certain medium to inspire its Chiefs and +Natives with confidence, and to obtain a facility of intercourse with the +Interior country. Sanctioned by that pursuit, I have been favoured with +information from a large circle of Native Chiefs, and Tribes, relative to +their customs, their habits, localities, predilections, and the existing +state of society. + +The impressions, which ocular demonstration, and personal investigation +occasion upon visiting this uncultivated country, are so different from +those excited in any other district of the globe, and so powerful, that the +mind is naturally led to meditation on the means of its improvement and on +the mode by which it may be ameliorated, and the sources of commerce be +essentially enlarged. + +Europe, which merits the highest rank for philanthropy, has hitherto +strangely neglected this country; nor have the attempts of individuals and +benevolent Societies been productive in endeavouring to diffuse the +influence of civilization, and to desseminate the seeds of science +throughout these extensive regions. + +Trusting that my endeavours to befriend the Natives of Africa, and to +extend the Commerce of my Country, will shield me from the severity of +animadversion, and of criticism, I shall proceed in my relation. + + + J. CORRY. +_September 1st, 1807_. + + +CONTENTS. + +CHAPTER I. + +Remarks from the Period of Embarkation at St. Helen's, till the Arrival at +Sierra Leone--Sketches of the Land seen in the Passage--its Bearings and +Distance--Observations upon the Bay and Entrance of Sierra Leone River, &c. + +CHAPTER II. + +The Author leaves Bance Island.--Visits the Colony of Sierra +Leone.--Delivers his introductory Letter to the late Governor Day, from +whom he experiences a most hospitable Reception.--Cursory Remarks upon that +Colony, and upon the Islands of Banana.--His Embarkation for the Island of +Goree, &c. + +CHAPTER III. + +An Excursion to the main Land.--Visit to King Marraboo.--Anecdotes of this +Chief.--Another Excursion, accompanied by Mr. Hamilton.--A shooting Party, +acccompanied by Marraboo's Son, Alexander, and other Chiefs.--Reflections +upon Information obtained from them, and at Goree, relative to this Part of +the Coast.--Embark in his Majesty's Sloop of War the Eugenia, which +convoyed Mr. Mungo Park in the Brig Crescent, to the River Gambia, on his +late Mission to the Interior of Africa.--Observations on that +Subject.--Arrive in Porto Praya Bay, in the Island of St. Jago.--Some +Remarks upon that Island.--Departure from thence to England, and safe +Arrival at Portsmouth + +CHAPTER IV. + +The Author proceeds to London.--Re-embarks for Africa.--Arrives at +Madeira.--Observations on that Island.--Prosecution of the Voyage, and +Arrival in the Sierra Leone River, &c. + +CHAPTER V. + +Observations upon the natural Productions of the River Sierra Leone.--The +Author explores its Branches, interior to Bance Island, the Rochelle, and +the Port Logo.--The Manners and Customs of the Inhabitants.--Their +Commerce.--The Author's safe Arrival at Miffare + +CHAPTER VI. + +Return to Bance Island.--General Observations on the Commerce, Religion, +Customs, and Character of the Natives upon the Windward Coast.--An Account +of the requisite Merchandize for Trade, the best Mode of introducing +natural Commerce and Civilization into Africa, &c. + +CHAPTER VII. + +The Mode of Trial by _Ordeal_ and _Red Water_ in Africa.--The Wars of its +Inhabitants.--The State of Barbarism and Slavery considered.--The Condition +of the Africans will not be improved by a late Legislative Act, without +further Interference.--Salutary Measures must be adopted towards the +Negroes in the Colonies.--A System suggested to abolish Slavery in Africa, +and the Slave Trade in general, and to enlarge the intellectual Powers of +its Inhabitants.--The proper Positions to effect an Opening to the Interior +of Africa, and to display to the World its manifold Resources + +CHAPTER VIII. + +What the Anthor conceives should be the System of Establishment to make +effectual the Operations from Cape Verd to Cape Palmas.--Reasons for +subjecting the Whole to one Superior and controlling Administration.--The +Situations, in his Estimation, where principal Depots may be established, +and auxiliary Factories may be placed, &c. &c. + +CHAPTER IX. + +The Author embarks in the Ship Minerva.--Proceeds to the Rio +Pongo.--Disquisitions thereon.--Further Observations on the Inhabitants, +obtained from Natives of various Nations met with there.--The Isles de +Loss.--Returns to Sierra Leone, &c. + +CHAPTER X. + +The Author visits the Isles de Loss.--Remarks on those Islands.--Touches at +the River Scarcies.--Arrives at the Colony of Sierra Leone.--Embarks for +the West Indies--Lands at the Colony of Demerary.--Some Observations on the +Productions of that Colony, Berbice, and Essequibo, and on the Importance +of Dutch Guiana to the United Kingdom in a political and commercial View + +CHAPTER XI. + +Conclusion + +APPENDIX. + +No. I. + +Letter to the Right Honourable Lord Viscount Howick, His Majesty's late +principal Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs, on the Eve of his +Lordship introducing the late Bill into Parliament for the Abolition of the +Slave Trade; shewing at one View the most simple and ready Mode of +gradually and effectually abolishing the Slave Trade, and eradicating +Slavery + +No. II. + +Letter to the Right Honourable the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, +referred to in the foregoing Letter to Lord Howick + +No. III. + +Of the Purrah + +Of the _Termite_, _Termes_, or _Bug a Bug_, as it is called by the Natives +upon the Windward Coast of Africa + +Of the Camelion + +On the Interment of the Dead + +On the Amusements, Musical Instruments, &c. of the Africans + +Concluding Observations + +Vocabulary of the Languages of the principal Nations of the Windward Coast +of Africa + +DIRECTIONS TO THE BINDER. + +Mandingo Chief and his Head Man, with other Natives in their Costume, to +face the Title Page. + +Sketch of the Windward Coast of Africa to face page 1 + +Palma + +The Colony of Sierra Leone and Islands of Banana + +Island of Goree + +Porto Praya, Island of St. Jago + +Island of Fogo, Cape Verd + +Island of St. Jago, and Paps of Cape Verd + +Bance Island, River Sierra Leone + +In illustration of the above Plates, it may be satisfactory to the Reader +to explain that the Turban, in the Frontispiece, distinguishes the +_Mandingo Chief_; and that the Cap, which adorns the _Head Man_, is +embroidered by _themselves_ on scarlet cloth procured from Europeans in +trade, and is executed with great ingenuity. + +The narrow stripe of blue cloth suspended behind from the covering which +adorns one of the figures in the back ground, distinguishes a female in the +state of virginity. + +This distinguishing mark of _virgin purity_ is uniformly removed upon +entering into the matrimonial state, and is called by the Timmauees +_Tintanjey_. + +In the Plate of Bance Island, River Sierra Leone, page 33, is a correct +representation of the _Pullam_ tree, described in page 38, as bearing a +species of silk cotton, or ether down, and is much revered by the natives, +who consider it in many instances as their _Fetish_. + + +* * * * * + + +ERRATA. + + + + Page 54, line 8, for _gallunas_ read _galhinas_. + 62 2, for _is derived from the African gris-gris_, read, + _is the expression from which the African gris-gris is_ + _derived_. + 64 20, for _lugras_, read _lugars_. + 92 6, for _bungra_, read _bangra_. + + + + + + +[Illustration: SKETCH OF THE WINDWARD COAST OF AFRICA] + + + + + + OBSERVATIONS + UPON THE + WINDWARD COAST OF AFRICA. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + + + + +_Remarks from the Period of my Embarkation at St. Helens, to my arrival at +Sierra Leone--Sketches of the Land discovered in the Passage--its Bearings +and Distance--with Observations upon the Bay and Entrance of Sierra Leone +River, &c._ + +Previous to my arrival and landing in the river Sierra Leone, on the 6th of +April, 1805, I shall notice my passage, and display the sketches I have +taken of the land we fell in with, its bearings and distance, for the +observation of the mariner, which from position and prominence to the +Atlantic, claim his most serious attention in running down the coast of +Africa to-windward.[1] + +On the 9th March, 1805, I sailed from St. Helens in the ship Thames, +commanded by James Welsh, in company with a fleet of ships bound to the +East Indies, under convoy of his Majesty's ship Indostan. We had a +favourable run down Channel; but, after making to the westward of Scilly, +a heavy gale of wind separated the Thames from the convoy, which we never +afterwards regained, and were therefore obliged, at all hazards, to +proceed for our destination upon the coast of Africa. + +Nothing interesting occurred during a prosperous and quick passage, until +the high land of Sierra Leone appeared in view on the evening of the 5th of +April. We came to an anchor outside the Capes, and weighed the next +morning, steering our course for the river. + +The space between Leopard's Island, situated to the north, and Cape Sierra +Leone to the south, forms the entrance into the river Sierra Leone; being +in latitude 8° 30" N. and in 13° 43" W. long. and is computed about seven +geographical leagues distant. The river empties itself immediately into the +ocean; and its level banks to the north are covered with impervious +forests, while those to the south exhibit the romantic scenery of an +extended chain of lofty mountains and hills, clothed and ornamented with +foliage of the most luxuriant nature, exciting the highest admiration in +those who are susceptible of the impressions which the sublime works of the +creation never fail to inspire. + +Upon entering the bay, the eye is attracted by an extensive river, +circumscribed by the foregoing outline, and exhibiting upon its banks an +assemblage of the productions of nature, vegetating in their native purity. +This view is animated by the prospect of the colony of Sierra Leone, and +the masts of vessels and craft which commerce, and a safe anchorage, +encourage to assemble before it, and by numerous natives paddling with +great dexterity in their canoes. + + + +[Illustration: PALMA bearing S. by W. distant about 8 leagues from A +Published Aug 1 1807 by G & W Nicol] + + + +As I shall have occasion to speak hereafter of the importance of this bay +in a commercial and agricultural point of view, I shall not at present +enter into farther details; but only suggest that I consider it as a +position from whence active enterprize may perform its operations +throughout an extensive district, and derive the most important advantages. + +At two. P.M. came to an anchor before the fort and settlement of Bance +Island, which we saluted with seven guns. The river is navigable up to this +island for ships, and small craft proceed a number of miles higher, on the +branches of the Port Logo and Rochell. It is obscured from the view by the +island of Tasso, until bearing round a point of that island called Tasso +Point; the eye is then attracted by a regular fortification, and even an +elegant range of buildings and store-houses, which, with great propriety, +may be considered as one of the most desirable positions upon the windward +coast of Africa, to command the interior commerce of the countries +bordering upon the river Sierra Leone and its branches, and that of the +rivers to the northward, the Scarcies and adjoining rivers, the Rio Pongo, +with the Isles De Loss, Rio Grande, Rio Noonez, &c. and those which fall +into the sea from Cape Sierra Leone to Cape Palmas. + +Tasso is an island adjoining, about a mile and a half distant, of some +extent, and a remarkably fertile soil. It is attached to Bance Island; +bearing cotton of a very good staple, and is capable of producing any +tropical production. Considerable labour and expense have been applied to +introduce cultivation into this island, and to exemplify to the African the +advantages derivable from his native soil, by the civil arts of life; while +under a still more scientific superintendency, it would become a possession +of very considerable consequence in an agricultural view. + +Bance Island is little more than a barren rock, of about three-quarters of +a mile in extent. The entrance into the fort is through a folding door or +gate, over which, throughout the night, a watch is constantly placed. The +expectations excited by its external appearance were by no means lessened +by a view of the interior of the fort, in which were assembled several +traders, and chiefs, with their attendants. I was much the object of their +curiosity and attention; and in their manner, all came up to me, to _give +me service _, as expressed in the idiom of their language. This ceremony is +simply performed by touching the fingers, accompanied in the Timminy +language by the usual obeisance of _Currea _, or, how do you do? The reply +to this is _Ba_, which means good, I return you service. + +The Grumittas, or free black people, are assembled outside the fort, in +houses or huts built with mud, upon the general construction in Africa, +which usually is an oblong square, raised little more than eight feet; or a +circle of the same height, over which is thrown a roof of bamboo, or other +thatch, supported by posts about five or six feet asunder, forming a +canopy, which shelters them from the rays of the sun, or the inclemency of +the weather, and affords a shade under which they retire in the extreme +heat of the day, where they repose in their hammocks, or rest upon their +mats. This group of buildings or huts is denominated Adam's Town, from the +black chief who presides over these labouring people. Their numbers may be +estimated at about 600. Originally they were slaves to the proprietors of +this island; but from a very humane and wise policy, they have been endowed +with certain privileges, which rescue them from an absolute state of +slavery, and prevents their being sold as slaves, unless they are convicted +by the laws and customs of their country of some crime or delinquency. + +Among these people are artizans in various branches, viz. smiths, +carpenters, joiners, masons, &c. under the superintendance of Europeans in +their different trades, who for ingenuity and adroitness in their +respective capacities, would deserve the approbation even of the +connoisseur in these arts; while in many other instances they discover a +genius of the most intelligent character, and a decency in their dress and +manners distinguished from that among the surrounding tribes; which is the +never failing consequence of the influence of the arts of civilized society +over barbarous customs and habits. + +[Footnote 1: Perhaps it will be considered by the reader a singular +phenomenon, that the upper region of _Palma_ was covered with snow.] + + + + +CHAPTER II. + + + + +_The Author leaves Bance Island--Visits the Colony of Sierra +Leone--Delivers his introductory Letter to the late Governor Day, from whom +he experiences a most hospitable Reception--Cursory Remarks upon that +Colony and upon the Islands of Bannana--His Embarkation for the Island of +Goree, &c._ + +From the 6th to the 8td April, I remained at Bance Island, and having +determined to embark for Europe, where circumstances required me by the +first conveyance, I visited the colony of Sierra Leone, then under the +government of the late Capt. William Day, of the Royal Navy, to whom I had +a recommendatory letter. His reception of me was in conformity with his +general character, distinguished for urbanity and polite hospitality; and +such were the impressions upon my mind, both from observation and report, +of the skill and penetration he possessed to fulfil the arduous duties of +his station, that they never will be effaced, and I shall ever retain the +highest respect for his memory. He was then occupied in forming plans of +defence in the colony; and had he lived, I am firmly persuaded, from +subsequent observation and enquiry, that it would in a short period have +opposed to an enemy a formidable resistance, and that it might have been +speedily rescued from that anarchy and confusion which distracted councils, +and want of unanimity had occasioned. + +The colony of Sierra Leone was established by the 31st of George III. +avowedly in opposition to the Slave Trade, and for the purpose of +augmenting more natural commerce, and introducing civilization among the +natives of Africa. The grant is from the 1st of July, 1791, and to continue +for the space of 31 years. During the late war with France, in September +1794, it was nearly destroyed by a French squadron, consisting of one +two-decker, several armed ships and brigs, in the whole about seven or +eight sail; they appeared in the offing on the evening of the 27th, and in +the morning of the 28th at day-light commenced their operations; the result +of which was, that the colony was ravaged by the enemy, and many houses +burnt and destroyed. This squadron was piloted into the river by two +Americans, one of whom was a Captain Neville. The pecuniary loss to the +colony by this attack has been estimated at about 40,000_l_. independant of +buildings destroyed, valued at first cost, about 15,000_l_. more. Bance +Island experienced the same fate, and suffered in pecuniary loss upwards of +20,000_l_. + +In addition to this calamity, the Sierra Leone Company had to lament the +inefficiency of its superintendants, their want of unanimity, and various +other disasters and unforeseen difficulties which operated to augment the +charge in their establishment, and diminish its funds; and with every +deference to the benevolent undertakers, whose motives merit the highest +approbation of every enlightened mind, I would observe, they have likewise +to regret their misconception of the eligible grounds upon which so +beneficent a plan is to be productive of operative influence; but as at a +future stage of my narrative, I shall be enabled from more minute +investigation to enter at large upon this interesting subject, I shall for +the present dismiss it. + +On the 28th of April I embarked on board his Majesty's sloop of war the +Lark, then upon the windward station; having looked into the river for +Governor Day's dispatches, &c.; and I cannot omit this opportunity of +expressing the obligations conferred upon me by Captain Langford, the +commander, and his officers, which invariably continued during my being on +board. At day-light we weighed, and were saluted by one of the forts with +15 guns, which were returned; nothing of moment occurred during our +passage, except being once overtaken with a tornado: this is a hurricane +which prevails upon the windward coast of Africa about this season of the +year, preceding the rainy season; and it is impossible to convey by +description an adequate idea of this explosion of the elements. It +announces its approach by a small white cloud scarcely discernible, which +with incredible velocity overspreads the atmosphere, and envelopes the +affrighted mariner in a vortex of lightning, thunder, torrents of rain, &c. +exhibiting nature in one universal uproar. It is necessary when this cloud +appears at sea, to take in all sail instantaneously, and bear away right +before the furious assailant, which soon expends its awful and tremendous +violence, and nature is again hushed into peaceful tranquillity. + +To the southward of Cape Sierra Leone, and in about 8 degrees north +latitude, lie the Islands of Bannana, in a direction from east to west. To +the west of Great Bannana, lie the smaller islands, which are little more +than barren rocks. The soil of the Bannanas is very fertile, and the +climate healthy, from their proximity to the sea, and the refreshing +breezes which it bestows upon them. They take their name from a fruit so +denominated; and are situated in the most eligible position for commerce, +upon the Windward Coast; combining, from their fertility of soil and +situation, great agricultural advantages, and peculiar salubrity of air. At +present the sovereignty of these islands is contended for by two chiefs, of +considerable intelligence and enterprise, named Caulker and Cleveland. +Caulker appears to be the legitimate sovereign; Cleveland's forefathers +having been established by Caulker's as _trade men_, on their account; and +by intermarriage with that family their claims are founded. James +Cleveland, who married king Caulker's sister, first began the war by his +Grummettas, on the Bannanas, attacking Caulker's people on the Plantains, +The result of this violence was, that Charles Caulker was killed in battle; +and his body mangled and cut into pieces, in the most savage and cruel +manner. In 1798, Stephen Caulker, the present chief, commenced war again, +to revenge his brother's death; and the barbarous contest has continued +ever since, marked with ferocious cruelty, and with various success to the +respective claimants. Soon after its renewal, James Cleveland died, and was +succeeded by his nephew, William, who has received his education in +England, and is a chief of no inconsiderable acquirements and talent. +Stephen Caulker has succeeded in obtaining from him the possession of the +Bannanas and Plantains, and at present sways authority over them; still, +however, exposed to the enterprising genius and intrigues of Cleveland. + + + +[Illustration: THE COLONY of SIERRA LEONE A bearing S.W. by E. distant 3 +MILES, and the BANANAS bearing S.W. by W distant 3 leagues. Published Aug 1 +1807 by G & W Nicol] + + + +Were it practicable to reconcile these contentions, and procure these +valuable islands, they would form most eligible auxiliaries and depots to +any establishment which Government might form upon this part of the coast, +and be of the utmost importance; or in the event of their being +unattainable, factories might be established at Kittim and Boom, both under +Caulker's influence and protection. I have had frequent intercourse with +this chief, and I found him of a very superior understanding, and acute +intellect, to the generality of his countrymen; and if his jealousies could +be allayed by the emollients of superior advantage, his intelligence and +co-operation would much facilitate any operations in this quarter. + +On the 10th of April we arrived at Goree Roads, and came to an anchor +nearly opposite to that part of the island of Goree, called the Point de +Nore, and opening Cape Emanuel, which is by much the most eligible position +in the event of tornados, as a ship may always run in safety to sea, +between the island and the main land. + +Goree is a small island, or barren rock, little more than three quarters of +a mile in length, and a few hundred yards in breadth. Its native +inhabitants are of colour, and a spurious progeny from the French; for whom +they still retain a great predilection. The number of what are called +principal inhabitants, does not exceed 50 males, with their families, +dependants, and slaves; which may in the aggregate amount to frequently +between three and four thousand souls. Their principal trade is in slaves, +of whom they annually export about two thousand, with a small proportion of +dead cargo, chiefly procured from Gambia. + +Religion, of any description, is little practised or understood among them; +although it is evident that Christianity has been introduced into the +island, as there are traces of a catholic chapel and a monastery remaining. +Custom here, as in all the maritime countries of Africa, is the governing +principle of all their actions, added to an avaricious thirst for gain, and +the indulgence of sensual gratification. The ceremony of marriage is too +offensive for delicacy even to reflect upon, much less for me to narrate: +it does not attach to the union any sacred obligation, the bond being +broken at the moment of caprice in either party, or predilection in favour +of any other object. As a preliminary to this disgusting ceremony, a "big +dinner," in their phraseology, and a few presents to the lady, first +obtaining her and her parents' consent, is all that is requisite. When the +happy pair are united, the dependants and slaves of the parties, and their +respective connexions, who are assembled round the buildings or huts, send +forth a most savage yell of exclamation, accompanied by their barbarous +music, gesticulations, and clapping of the hands, in unison with their song +of triumph. This dance is continued with unabating vociferation during the +night, and perhaps for a week, or greater length of time, bearing, however, +due reference to the rank and consequence of the connubial pair. + +The following morning the bride issues forth, with solemn pace and slow, in +grand procession, preceded by her most intimate female associate during her +virgin state, reclining upon her shoulder with both hands; who, in +consequence, is considered as the next matrimonial candidate. They are +immediately surrounded by a concourse of attendants, accompanied by music, +dancing, and other wild expressions of joy; and in a body proceed to visit +her circle of acquaintance and friends, who are always expected to +contribute some offering of congratulation. This ceremony is the concluding +one on the part of the bride; while the dancing and music are continued by +the attendants as long as they can procure any thing either to eat or +drink. + + + +[Illustration: ISLAND OF GOREE Published Aug 1 1807 by G & W Nicol] + + + +In a military point of view, in its present condition, the island of Goree +is far from being a place of strength; but in a commercial, it is of +considerable importance; and, therefore, ought to claim the attention of +Government, if it attaches any consequence towards a commerce with the +coast of Africa. In a military character, its batteries and guns are in an +extremely bad condition; and it is completely a position where a piccaroon +privateer could check every supply from the continent, upon which it +depends for fresh provisions and water, and might carry on hostile +operations without the range of its batteries; which, by consequence, +always exposes this garrison to contingencies and casual supply. In a +commercial consideration, I view it as a possession of the greatest moment; +from its contiguity to the French settlement of the Senegal, and to a large +portion of that valuable district, which they claim and influence; from +whence accurate information may be obtained of their operations; and a +check may issue, to maintain our ascendency to leeward; besides a rallying +point for our outward bound ships, to ascertain the enemy's force upon the +coast; the deviation from a direct course to leeward being very +unimportant: moreover, it might be an eligible depot for the trade of that +infinitely valuable river, the Gambia, which, for variety of natural +productions, is perhaps not to be excelled by any other in the world; only +requiring the hand of industry and intelligence to fertilize and unfold. + +The garrison of Goree has seldom more than 150 effective men to defend it, +of the royal African regiment, commanded by Major Lloyd;[1] and this force +is very fluctuating, from sickness and the diseases of the climate; in +general, however, it is tolerably healthy, and its physical department is +superintended by a gentleman (Doctor Heddle) of very considerable +intelligence and ability in his profession. The hospitality of Major Lloyd, +and the officers of his corps, to their countrymen, is distinguished by +liberality; and during my stay in that island, which was upwards of three +weeks, I have to acknowledge their polite attentions. I was the inmate of +Mr. Hamilton, in the commissariat department, whose peculiar friendship and +kind offices have made a most indelible impression upon my mind. + +The view from the roads, some of the buildings near the shore being of +stone, and upon even an elegant and convenient construction, is calculated +to raise expectation upon approaching it, which is considerably +lessened[**Transcriber's note: "lessoned" must be a typesetting error.] +upon a nearer view; the streets being extremely narrow, and the huts of the +natives huddled together without regularity or system. The inhabitants are +governed in their local customs and capacities by a native mayor, and his +advisers; but, of course, under the control of the commandant of the +garrison; and this privilege is a mere matter of form and courtesy, which a +lenient authority permits. + +[Footnote 1: Now Lieutenant Colonel Lloyd.] + + + + +CHAPTER III. + + + + +_An Excursion to the Main Land.--Visit to King Marraboo.--Anecdotes of this +Chief.--Another Excursion, accompanied by Mr. Hamilton.--A shooting Party, +accompanied by Marraboo's Son, Alexander, and other Chiefs.--Reflections +upon Information obtained from them, relative to this Part of the Coast, +and at Goree.--Embark in his Majesty's Sloop of War, the Eugenie, which +convoyed Mr. Mungo Park in the Brig Crescent, to the River Gambia, on his +late Mission to the Interior of Africa.--Observations on that +Subject.--Arrive in Porto Praya Bay, in the Island of St. Jago.--Some +Remarks upon that Island.--Departure from thence to England, and safe +arrival at Portsmouth._ + + +A few days after the arrival of the Lark at the island of Goree, +accompanied by a party of the officers of that ship, I made an excursion +upon the main land: we set out from the ship early in the morning, for +Decar, the capital of a chief or king, named Marraboo: we arrived before he +had moved abroad, and, after going through winding narrow paths or streets, +we were conducted by one of his people to his palace, a wretched hovel, +built with mud, and thatched with bamboo. In our way to this miserable +habitation of royalty, a confused sound of voices issued forth from almost +every hut we passed, which originated from their inhabitants vociferating +their morning orisons to Allah and Mahomet; their religion being an +heterogeneous system of Mahomedanism, associated with superstitious +idolatry, incantations, and charms. + +We found _Marraboo's head men_ and priests assembled before his majesty's +dwelling _to give him service_, and to offer him their morning's +salutation. At length he made his appearance, followed by several of the +officers of the palace, carrying skins of wild beasts, and mats, which upon +enquiry, I found to have composed the royal bed, spread out upon a little +hurdle, erected about a foot and a half high, interwoven with bamboo canes: +my attention was much engaged with this novel sight; and I could not +contemplate the venerable old man, surrounded by his chiefs, without +conceiving I beheld one of the patriarchs of old, in their primaeval state. +After his chiefs had paid their obeisance, I presumed, accompanied by my +friends, to approach the royal presence; when he discovered us among the +group, his countenance underwent an entire change, expressive of reserve +and surprise, exclaiming, "What did I want with Marraboo?" With great +humility I replied, "I be Englishman, come from King George's country, his +brother, to give him service." He replied with quickness, "I be very glad +to see you, what service have you brought?" I was aware of this tax upon my +civility, and replied, that "I make him good service;" which in plain +English was, that I shall make you a good present. He then conversed with +more freedom relative to his country, government, localities, and religion; +I suggested to him that "I understood he was a powerful king, and a great +warrior, had many wives and children, that he ruled over much people, and a +fine country, that I hear he get much head, that he far pass any of his +enemies, and that I be very happy to look so great a king:" or, in other +words, that I understood he was a great general, was very rich, was more +wise than all his contemporary chiefs, and that it gave me much pleasure to +pay my respects to so great a prince: but the former idiom of language is +best adapted to convey meaning to the interpreters of the chiefs of Africa, +in whatever tongue it may be spoken; being that which they use in +translation; and when they are addressed in this phraseology, they convey +their ideas with more perspicuity and literal interpretation. But to return +to the dialogue. + +Marraboo.--"I be very glad to look you for that, I have much trouble all my +life--great deal of war--my son some time since killed in battle." This was +accompanied by such a melancholy expression of countenance, that could not +fail to excite my compassion, I therefore avoided touching more on the +subject of his wars; only observing, "that I hear he be too much for all +his enemies, and that he build great wall that keep his town and people +safe." + +Marraboo.--"The king of Darnel's people cannot pass that--they all be +killed--they come there sometimes, but always go back again." My curiosity +was excited to obtain the history of this _enchanted wall_, which on my +approach to the town, I had discovered to be apparently little more than +three or four feet high, and situated within the verge of their wells of +fresh water, open at several places, and without any defence. + +Upon enquiry, I found that Marraboo had been early in life _fetish man_, or +high priest, to Damel, king of Cayor, a very powerful chief bordering upon +the Senegal, and that he had artfully contrived to gain over to his +interest a number of adherents, who, in process of time, became formidable, +rebelled against their lawful sovereign, and took possession of that part +of the country towards Cape Verd: to strengthen their position, Marraboo +caused a wall to be erected, commencing from the sea shore, and extending +towards the Cape; which, in the estimation of the natives, and in +consequence of his sacerdotal office, incantations, and charms, was +rendered invulnerable: the hypocritical priest well knew the natural +disposition of his countrymen, and the effect his exorcisms would produce +upon their minds; which operated so effectually, that when his army was +beaten by the powerful Damel, they uniformly retired behind their exorcised +heap of stones, which in a moment stopt their enemy's career, and struck +them with such dread, that they immediately retired to their country, +leaving their impotent enemy in quiet possession of his usurped territory; +whom otherwise they might have annihilated with the greatest facility. +Superstition is a delusion very prevalent in Africa; and its powerful +influence upon the human mind is forcibly illustrated by the foregoing +instance. + +When I enquired of Marraboo the nature of his belief in a supreme being, +his observations were confused and perplexed, having no perspicuous +conception of his attributes or perfections, but an indistinct combination +of incomprehensibility; and to sum up the whole, he remarked, "that he pass +all men, and was not born of woman." + +A few days after the abovementioned visit, I made another excursion to the +main land, accompanied by Mr. Hamilton, and one of the principal +inhabitants of Goree, named Martin. We landed at a small native town, +called after the island, Goree Town. When we came on shore, we were +immediately surrounded by natives, who surveyed us with great curiosity and +attention. We had prepared ourselves with fowling-pieces and shooting +equipage, with the view of penetrating into the interior country: in +pursuance of our design, we dispatched a messenger to _Decar_, with a +request that we might be supplied with attendants and horses: our +solicitation was promptly complied with; and Alexander, Marraboo's son, +speedily made his appearance with two horses, attended by several chiefs +and head men. Our cavalcade made a most grotesque exhibition; Mr. Hamilton +and myself being on horseback, followed by Alexander and his attendants on +foot, in their native accoutrements and shooting apparatus. My seat was not +the most easy, neither was my horse very correct in his paces; the saddle +being scarcely long enough to admit me, with a projection behind, intended +as a security from falling backwards: the stirrups were formed of a thin +plate of iron, about three or four inches broad, and so small, that I could +scarcely squeeze my feet into them. In our progress we killed several +birds, of a species unknown in Europe, and of a most beautiful plumage; one +of which, a little larger than the partridge in England, was armed with a +sharp dart or weapon projecting from the pinion, as if designed by nature +to operate as a guard against its enemies. Our associates rendered us every +friendly attention, and evinced great anxiety to contribute to our sport; +and proved themselves skilful and expert marksmen. The country abounded +with a multiplicity of trees and plants, which would no doubt have amply +rewarded the researches of the botanist, and scientific investigator. The +fatigue I had undergone, and the oppressive heat of the sun, so completely +overpowered me, by the time of our return to Goree Town, that I felt myself +attacked by a violent fever; in this situation I was attended with every +tenderness and solicitude by the females; some bringing me a calabash of +milk, others spreading me a mat to repose upon, and all uniting in kind +offices: it is from them alone that man derives his highest happiness in +this life; and in all situations to which he is exposed, they are the +assuasive agents by whom his sorrows are soothed, his sufferings +alleviated, and his griefs subdued; while compassion is their prominent +characteristic, and sympathy a leading principle of their minds. + +The attention of these kind beings, and the affectionate offices of my +friend, operating upon a naturally good constitution, soon enabled me to +overcome the disease, and to return again to Goree. During the remaining +part of my stay there, I was vigilantly employed in procuring every +information relative to this part of the coast, and through the +intelligence of several of the native inhabitants and traders, I am enabled +to submit the following remarks. + +To elucidate, with perspicuity, the deep impression I feel of the +importance of this district of the Windward Coast, in obtaining a facility +of intercourse with the interior, combining such a variety of local +advantage, by which our ascendency may be preserved, and our commercial +relations improved, is an undertaking, the difficulties of which I duly +appreciate; and I am aware that I have to combat many prejudices and +grounds of opposition to the system I conceive to be practicable, to +develope the various stores of wealth with which Africa abounds, and to +improve the intellectual faculties of its native inhabitants. + +That a situation so highly valuable as the Senegal, and its contiguous +auxiliary, the island of Goree, has been so overlooked, is certainly a +subject of great surprise, and deep regret. While visionary and +impracticable efforts have been resorted to penetrate into the interior of +Africa, we have strangely neglected the maritime situations, which abound +with multifarious objects of commerce, and valuable productions, inviting +our interference to extricate them from their dormant state; and the +consideration apparently has been overlooked, that the barbarism of the +natives on the frontiers must first be subdued by enlightened example, +before the path of research can be opened to the interior. + +We have several recent occurrences to lament, where the most enterprising +efforts have failed, through the inherent jealousies of the natives, and +their ferocious character; and, therefore, it is expedient to commence +experiments in the maritime countries, as the most eligible points from +whence operative influence is to make its progress, civilization display +itself among the inhabitants, and a facility of intercourse be attained +with the interior. So long as this powerful barrier remains in its present +condition, it will continue unexplored; and our intercourse with its more +improved tribes must remain obscured, by the forcible opposition of the +frontier; and these immense regions, with their abundant natural resources, +continue unknown to the civilized world. The inhabitants of the sea coast +are always more fierce and savage than those more remote and insular: all +travellers and voyagers, who have visited mankind in their barbarous state, +must substantiate this fact: and the history of nations and states clearly +demonstrates, that the never-failing influence of commerce and agriculture +united, has emanated from the frontiers, and progressively spread their +blessings into the interior countries. View our own now envied greatness, +and the condition in which our forefathers lived, absorbed in idolatry and +ignorance, and it will unquestionably appear, that our exalted state of +being has arisen from the introduction of the civilized arts of life, the +commerce which our local situation has invited to our shores, and our +agricultural industry. + +Within the district now in contemplation, flows the river of _Senegal_, +with its valuable _gum trade_; the _Gambia_, abounding with innumerable +objects of commerce, such as indigo, and a great variety of plants for +staining, of peculiar properties, timber, wax, ivory, &c.; _the Rio Grande, +Rio Noonez, Rio Pongo,_ &c. all greatly productive, and their borders +inhabited by the Jolliffs, the Foollahs, the Susees, the Mandingos, and +other inferior nations, and communicating, as is now generally believed, +with the river Niger, which introduces us to the interior of this great +continent; the whole presenting an animating prospect to the distinguished +enterprise of our country. + +That these advantages should be neglected, is, as I have before said, +subject of deep regret, and are the objects which I would entreat my +countrymen to contemplate, as the most eligible to attain a knowledge of +this important quarter of the globe, and to introduce civilization among +its numerous inhabitants; by which means, our enemies will be excluded from +that emolument and acquirement, which we supinely overlook and abandon to +contingencies. + +The island of Goree lies between the French settlement of the Senegal and +the river Gambia, and therefore is a very appropriate local station to aid +in forming a general system of operation from Cape Verd to Cape Palmas, +subject to one administration and control. The administrative authority, I +would recommend to be established in the river of Sierra Leone, as a +central situation, from whence evolution is to proceed with requisite +facility, and a ready intercourse be maintained throughout the whole of the +Windward Coast; and as intermediate situations, I would propose the rivers +Gambia, Rio Noonez, Rio Pongo, and Isles de Loss, to the northward; and to +the southward, the Bannana Islands, the Galinhas, Bassau, John's River, &c. +to Cape Palmas; or such of them as would be found, upon investigation, best +calculated to promote the resources of this extensive coast. + +The supreme jurisdiction in the river Sierra Leone, with auxiliaries +established to influence the trade of the foregoing rivers, form the +outlines of my plan, to be supported by an adequate military force, and +organized upon principles which I have hereafter to explain in the course +of my narrative. + +Having an opportunity to sail for England, in his Majesty's sloop of war +the Eugenie, commanded by Charles Webb, Esq. as it was uncertain at what +time the Lark was to proceed, I availed myself of that officer's kind +permission to embark, accompanied by surgeon Thomas Burrowes and his lady. + +The Eugenie had been dispatched for England to convoy the Crescent +transport brig, with Mr. Mungo Park on board, to the river Gambia, upon his +late mission to the interior of Africa. Captain Webb did not conceive it +prudent, nor indeed was it expedient, to proceed higher up the river than +Jillifree, and dispatched the Crescent as far as Kaya, about 150 miles from +the capes of the river, where Mr. Park landed with his associates, viz. his +surgeon, botanist, draftsman, and about 40 soldiers, commanded by an +officer obtained from the royal African corps at Goree, by the order of +Government. + +Nothing could have been more injudicious than attempting this ardoous +undertaking, with any force assuming a military appearance. The natives of +Africa are extremely jealous of white men, savage and ferocious in their +manners, and in the utmost degree tenacious of any encroachment upon their +country. This unhappy mistake may deprive the world of the researches of +this intelligent and persevering traveller, who certainly merits the esteem +of his country, and who, it is to be feared, may fall a victim to a +misconceived plan, and mistaken procedure. + + + +[Illustration: PORTO PRAYA, ISLAND OF ST JAGO Published Aug 1 1807 by G & W +Nicol] + + + +Although anxious to embark, yet I could not take my departure without +sensibly feeling and expressing my sense of obligation for the many +attentions I had to acknowledge from the officers of the garrison, and also +to several of the native inhabitants, among whom were Peppin, Martin, St. +John, and others; the latter, I am sorry to say, was in a bad state of +health; I am much indebted to him for his judicious remarks, and very +intelligent observations. This native received his education in France, and +has acquired a very superior intelligence relative to the present condition +of his country. + +Accompanied by Mr. Hamilton, my hospitable and friendly host, and several +of the officers of the Lark, I embarked on board the Eugenie, on the 31st +of May, and arrived in Porto Praya Bay on the 3d of June. + +The town of Porto Praya is situated upon a plain, forming a height from the +sea, level with the fort, and is a most wretched place, with a very weak +and vulnerable fortification. In the roads there is good anchorage for +shipping, opposite to Quail island, and for smaller vessels nearer the +shore. It has a governmenthouse, a catholic chapel, a market place, and +jail, built with stone; and is now the residence of the government of the +island of St. Jago, subject to the crown of Portugul. Formerly the +governor's place of abode was at the town of St. Jago, upon the opposite +side of the island: his title is that of governor-general of the islands, +comprehending Mayo, Fogo, &c. + +Mayo is remarkable for its salt, which is cast on shore by the rollers or +heavy seas, which at certain periods prevail, and run uncommonly high. The +heat of the sun operating upon the saline particles, produces the salt, +which the inhabitants collect in heaps for sale. We anchored at Mayo for +some hours, and a number of vessels were lying in the roads, chiefly +Americans, taking in this article; it is a very rocky and dangerous +anchorage; we, however, found the traders were willing to undergo the +risque, from the cheapness of the commodity they were in quest of. + +It is a most sorry place, with scarce a vestige of vegetation upon its +surface, and its inhabitants apparently live in the greatest misery. They +are governed by a black man, subject to the administration of St. Jago. + +The military force of St. Jago is by no means either formidable in numbers +or discipline, and exhibits a most complete picture of despicable +wretchedness. + +A black officer, of the name of Vincent, conducted as to the governor, who +received us with politeness, and gave us an invitation to dinner. The town +and garrison were quite in a state of activity and bustle; an officer of +high rank and long residence among them had just paid the debt of nature, +and his body was laid in state in the chapel, in all his paraphernalia. The +greater part of the monks from the monastery of St. Jago were assembled +upon the occasion, to sing requiems for his soul; and the scene was truly +solemn and impressive. We met these ministers of religion at dinner, but +how changed from that gravity of demeanor which distinguished them in +their acts of external worship. The governor's excellent Madeira was taken +in the most genuine spirit of devotion, accompanied by fervent exclamations +upon its excellent qualities. Upon perceiving this holy fervency in the +pious fraternity, we plied them closely, and frequently joined them in +flowing bumpers, until their ardour began to sink into brutal stupidity, +and the morning's hymns were changed into revelry and bacchanalian roar. + + + +[Illustration: POGO, bearing N. by W. distance about 4 leagues from B +Published Aug 1 1807 by G & W Nicol] + + + + +[Illustration: 3 ISLAND of ST. IAGO, distance 6 Miles. 4. PAPS of CAPE +VERDE, bearing at C, _N.N.E._ and at D, _S.E._ by _S._ distance 3 leagues. +Published Aug 1 1807 by G & W Nicol] + + + +This, however, was rather a tax upon the governor's hospitality, as it +deprived him of his _Ciesta_, a common practice with him, almost +immediately after the cloth is withdrawn. When we came ashore the next +morning, we were highly entertained with the anecdotes related to us of the +pranks performed during the night by the convivial priests, many of whom +were unable to fulfil the duties of the altar at the usual hour of prayer. + +The natives of St. Jago, with those of the neighbouring islands, are mostly +black, or of a mixed colour, very encroaching in their manners, and much +addicted to knavery. The island is extremely rocky and uneven, but the +vallies are fertile. The inhabitants raise cotton, and they have several +sugar works; the quantity they raise of both, does not, however, much +exceed their own consumption, but there is no doubt that it might be +considerably augmented by industry, even for exportation; but the natives +are indolent, and extremely listless in their habits. The only inducement +in touching at this island is, to procure water and provisions: the former +is good, and the latter consists in hogs, turkeys, ducks, poultry, &c. but +frequently, after they have been visited by a fleet, a great scarcity +prevails. + +The commodities the natives require as payment may be purchased at Rag +Fair, being extremely partial to cast off wearing apparel of every +description. + +The men are extremely slovenly in their dress; but the women are rather +more correct and uniform, those of the better condition being habited in +muslin, and their hair ornamented, and neatly plaited. + +They manufacture a narrow cloth of silk and cotton, which is in high +estimation among them, and its exportation is prohibited, except to +Portugal. Considerable ingenuity is displayed in this manufacture, which is +performed in a loom, differing very little from that used by the ruder +inhabitants of the coast of Africa, and similar to the garter loom in +England. They have horses and mules well adapted to their roads and rugged +paths, which they ride most furiously, particularly the military, who +advance at full speed to a stone wall, or the side of a house, merely to +shew their dexterity in halting. + +After being detained here for several days in taking in stock and +provisions, we again weighed with the Crescent brig, and a sloop from +Gambia, bound to London, under our convoy, and after a tedious and very +anxious passage, arrived at Portsmouth on the 4th of August. We were +detained under quarantine until the return of post from London, and +proceeded on shore the following day. There is something in _natale solum_ +which charms the soul after a period of absence, and operates so +powerfully, as to fill it with indescribable sensations and delight. Every +object and scene appeals so forcibly to the senses, enraptures the eye, and +so sweetly attunes the mind, as to place this feeling among even the +extacies of our nature, and; the most refined we are capable of enjoying. + +It is this love of his country which stimulates man to the noblest deeds; +and, leaving all other considerations, only obedient to its call, separates +him from his most tender connections, and makes him risque his life in its +defence. + + +"Where'er we roam, whatever realms to see, +Our hearts untravell'd fondly turn to thee; +Still to our country turn, with ceaseless pain, +And drag, at each remove, a lengthening chain." + GOLDSMITH. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + + + + +_The Author proceeds to London.--Re-embarks for Africa.--Arrives at +Madeira.--Observations on that Island.--Prosecution of the Voyage, and +Arrival in the Sierra Leone River, &c._ + + +Our happy arrival was celebrated at the Crown inn, where Captain Webb and +his first Lieutenant (Younger) joined us; we dined together, and separated +with mutual kind wishes. The next morning Mr. Burrowes and myself proceeded +to London, and were once more rapidly conducted into its busy scene. + +Without even time to greet my friends, I again left town for Portsmouth, to +commit myself to the watery element, and revisit the shores. I had so +recently left; and on the 22d of September sailed, in the ship Andersons, +from St. Helen's, under convoy of the Arab post sloop of war, commanded by +Keith Maxwell, Esq. and the Favorite sloop of war, by John Davie, Esq. + +We anchored in Funchal Roads, island of Madeira, on Saturday the lath of +October, without experiencing any remarkable event. + +When approaching the island of Madeira, it exhibits to the eye a strikingly +beautiful and picturesque view. The uneven surface of the hills, covered +with plantations of vines, and various kinds of herbage, with the exception +of partial spots burnt up by the heat of the sun in the dry season, +displays a singular perspective, which, with the beautiful appearance of +the interspersed villas, churches, and monasteries, form an arrangement +both exquisite and delightful. + +After being visited by the boat of health, our party proceeded on shore in +the evening; and upon being made known to the house of Messrs. Murdoch, +Masterton, and Co. were politely invited to breakfast the ensuing morning. + +At our appearance, in conformity with our appointment, we were introduced +into the breakfast parlour by Mr. Wardrope, one of the acting partners, to +his lady and sister, who received us with engaging civilities and +attention. + +After our friendly meal, we perambulated the town of Funchal, and attended +chapel, which so far from being a house of devotion, presented to our +contemplation a rendezvous for intrigue and the retirement of a +conversazione. + +Funchiale or Funchal, takes its derivation from Funcho, signifying in the +Portuguese language, Fennel; it is situated at the bottom of a bay, and may +be considered disproportionate to the island, in extent and appearance, as +it is ill built, and the streets remarkably narrow and ill paved. The +churches are decorated with ornaments, and pictures of images and saints, +most wretchedly executed: I understand, however, that a much better taste +is displayed in the convents, more especially that of the Franciscans, in +which is a small chapel, exhibiting the disgusting view of human skulls and +thigh bones lining its walls. The thigh bones form a cross, and the skulls +are placed in each of the four angles. + +Nature has been very bountiful in her favours to Madeira; its soil is rich +and various, and its climate is salubrious and versatile; it abounds in +natural productions, and only requires the fostering hand of the husbandman +to produce every necessary, and almost luxury, of life. Walnuts, chesnuts, +and apples, flourish in the hills, almost spontaneously, and guanas, +mangoes, and bananas, in wild exuberance. At the country residence of James +Gordon, Esq. where we dined, and met with the most distinguished +hospitality, I saw a most surprising instance of rapid growth; a shoot of +the tree, called the Limbriera Royal, started up, perpendicularly from the +trunk, to a height of nearly _thirty feet_, from the month of January to +that of October: it is, however, to be observed, that the branches were +lopped off, and it is supposed the juices of the trunk communicated to this +stem. + +Corn of a very good quality grows in this island, and might be produced in +plenty, but the inhabitants, whose characteristic is idleness, neglect its +culture, and thereby subject themselves to the necessity of relying upon +foreign imports. Their beef, mutton, and pork, are remarkably good, and +they have game in the mountains. + +By order of the late governor, in 1800, the population was taken from the +confessional returns, and, as he was himself a bishop, it may be inferred +that the number stated below, which I procured from official authority, is +accurate, viz. + + + + Number confessed, 95,000 + And, calculating 1 in 10 for children under 5 + years of age, the first period of their confession, + is equal to 3,500 + -------- + Making in the aggregate the number of souls to be 104,500 + -------- + + + +15,000 of whom were computed to be inhabitants of the town of Funchal. + +The government consists of a governor, appointed by the crown of Portugal, +the island being in its possession, styled governor of the islands, and: is +perfectly arbitrary; Funchal is his residence; he has a council under him +consisting of 24 members, whose president is the second judge for the time +being. All officers are nominated by the crown, and the holders continue +only for three years, at the end of which new nominations take place. + +The only article of trade is wine, of which they export about 12,000 pipes +annually, and consume from 6 to 8,000 pipes in the island, comprehending +_small wine_, &c. being in the whole about 20,000 pipes. It is made by +pressing out the juice from the grape in a wooden vessel, proportioned in +size to the quantity they intend to make. The wine-pressers take off their +jackets and stockings, get into the vessel, and with their elbows and feet +press as much of the juice as is practicable by this operation; the stalks +are then tied together and pressed, under a square piece of wood, by a +lever with a stone fastened to the end of it; the wine is brought from the +country in goat skins, by men and women on their heads. + +The roads are so steep and roughly paved, that neither carriages nor carts +are in use, the substitute is a palanquin for the former, and for the +latter a hollow log of wood, drawn by oxen, upon which the wine vessels or +other loads are placed; they, however, have horses and mules very well +adapted to their roads. + +The revenue to the crown of Portugal is estimated from 20 to 30,000_l_. +annually, clear of all expenses; but the balance of trade is greatly +against them, all their specie being drawn to Lisbon. + +The currency of the island is Spanish, and consists of dollars, converted +by their laws, into milreas of 5_s_. 6_d_. pistareens, value about is. +bits, about 6_d_. and half bits, about 3_d_. + +It is disadvantageous to take up money at Madeira upon bills, as they make +payment in dollars, which they value at a milrea. Sometimes they may, from +particular circumstances, give a premium, but it is seldom equal to the +discount. + +On the morning of the 18th I bad my grateful adieu to Madeira, and the +friendly roof of Mr. Wardrope and his united family, the abode of conjugal +affection, friendship, and hospitable reception; and at 2 P.M. went on +board. We weighed anchor under the protection of the Favorite, the Arab +continuing at her moorings. Passing between the grand Canary and close in +with Teneriffe, we arrived safe at the island of Goree, on the 5th of +November, without our commodore, under convoy of the Favorite. The ship +Andersons having freight to deliver at that island, we continued there +until the 12th, and again resumed our voyage; arriving, without accident; +at Bance Island, which I have previously noticed, on the 22d of the same +month. + +My residence was confined to this island, and in excursions through the +neighbouring countries, until the 4th June, 1806, during which period, and +from a general intercourse with an extended circle of chiefs, natives, and +traders, I have been enabled to decide upon the situation of this country, +and to form a conclusive opinion of the condition and character of its +inhabitants, and its commercial resources. + +From these sources of intelligence, and the example this island displayed, +with observations upon the conduct and management of the Sierra Leone +company, I first conceived the system that I shall hereafter delineate, +upon which the African's condition may be effectually improved, and his +hereditary slavery exterminated. + + + +[Illustration: BANCE ISLAND, in the RIVER SIERRA LEONE. _The Property of +John & Alexander Anderson Esq. London._] + + + +The natives of Africa resident upon the coast, are uniformly considered as +more ferocious and barbarous in their customs and manners, less numerous in +population, and more encroaching and deceitful, than those of the interior. +While this formidable opposition exists, and the baneful influence of +barbarous habits continues, it is in vain to look to remuneration by +natural commerce, or to the establishment of civilization. The African's +barbarity must be first here assailed, and the infinite resources upon the +coasts and maritime rivers must be developed to his view, to pre-dispose +him to refine his condition, and adopt the civilized habits of life; nor is +there any site which I have met with upon the Windward Coast of Africa, +more calculated to promote this beneficent undertaking, than the island of +Bance, from its locality of situation, being central to windward and +leeward operation, commanding an extensive circle of interior country, and +being long established in the estimation of the natives of an extended +district. But more of this subject in order. + + + +CHAPTER V. + + + + +_Observations upon the natural Productions of the River Sierra Leone.--The +Author explores its Branches, interior to Bance Island, the Rochelle, and +the Port Logo.--The Manners and Customs of the Inhabitants.--Their +Commerce.--The Author's safe Arrival at Miffaré._ + + +The river of Sierra Leone abounds in fish, and the spermaceti whale has +been occasionally found, the shark, the porpoise, eels, mackarel, mullet, +snappers, yellow tails, cavillos, tenpounders, &c. with the _mannittee_, a +singular mass of shapeless flesh, having much the taste of beef, which the +natives greatly esteem, and consider the highest offering they can make. + +Oysters are found in great abundance, attached to the interwoven twigs and +branches of the mangrove tree, to which they closely cling; and of the +zoophytes, there is the common sponge to be found upon the sandy beaches, +on the Boolum shore, and would, no doubt, bring a high price in England. + +The domestic animals of the adjoining countries are, cattle, sheep, goats, +hogs, ducks, turkeys, and fowls, very inferior, however, to those in +Europe. The beasts of prey are, lions, leopards, hyaenas, wild hogs in +abundance, squirrels, monkies, antelopes, &c. with the civet and zibeth +cats, and a most extraordinary animal, which is found in the mountains of +Sierra Leone and the adjacent countries, a species of the ourang outang, +called by the natives, japanzee, or chimpanzee, but approaching nearer to +the anatomy of the human frame than the former animal. Some of them, when +full grown, are nearly 5 feet, and are covered with black hair, long on the +back, but thin and short upon the belly and breast; the face is quite bare, +and the hands and feet resemble those of man; its countenance is remarkably +grave, similar to that of an old black man, but its ears are straight; it +will imitate a human being in walking, sleeping, eating, and drinking, and +is certainly a most singular production of nature. Surgeon Burrowes, whom I +have before mentioned, had a perfect skeleton of this animal, which, he +assured me, differed in nothing from the human, but in the spine, it being +curved. This skeleton, I believe, now forms a part of the collection of +Surgeon-General Keate. + +There are, of amphibious animals, green turtles, hawk's bills, and +loggerheads, which grow to a great size, some of them weighing several +hundred pounds, land turtles, fresh water turtles, alligators, extremely +voracious, and from 12 to 15 feet in length; they will swallow a man, and +at Bance Island Negro boys have been frequently snatched up by them from +the shore. There are also a variety of the lizard species, with the guava, +and camelion. + +Snakes abound; some of them haunt the houses in the night, and prowl about +for poultry, of which they are fond; some have been found to measure above +18 feet; and I have the skin of one in my possession, killed when young, +above 10 feet in length; it is that species which swallows its prey entire; +several animals were found in their perfect state when the one I allude to +was cut open. + +There is also an immense animal of this species, which I have heard the +natives of this part of the coast describe, often exceeding 30 feet in +length, and of an enormous size; it is variegated with spots, and the head +is covered with scales; the tongue is fleshy and forked, but its bite is +not poisonous; it is to be found in the recesses of caves and thickets, +from whence it suddenly darts upon its victim, whether man or beast: it +frequently chooses a tree, from which it reconnoitres the passing objects, +supporting itself by the tail, which it twists round the trunk or branches: +when it seizes animals, especially those of the larger kind, such as lions, +tigers, &c. it dexterously, and almost instantaneously twists itself round +their bodies in several folds, and by its powerful muscular force, breaks +the bones, and bruises it in all its parts; when this is done it covers the +animal with a viscous cohesive saliva, by licking its body with its tongue, +which facilitates the power of swallowing it entire; this process is +tedious, and it gradually sucks in the body, which, if large, renders it +incapable of moving for some time, until it digests; and this is the period +which the hunters watch to destroy it: it makes a hissing noise like a +serpent, and has recourse to a variety of expedients to conceal itself; it +is called by the natives _Tinnui_, and is what I apprehend naturalists term +the species of _Boa constrictor_: it is most commonly found in the sultry +climates of Africa, and I believe is also an inhabitant of Asia and +America. + +Insects are extremely numerous, of a nondescript species, and exceedingly +beautiful: the most singular are termites, destructive to houses and fences +built of wood; ants, causing ruin to provisions; cockroaches and crickets, +destroying leather, linen, and clothes; musquitos, sand-flies, centipedes, +scorpions; and wild bees, which are very productive of honey. The vermis +and large barnacles abound, which are so destructive to shipping without +copper bottoms. + +Esculent vegetables are various: Rice, which forms the chief part of the +African's sustenance. The rice-fields or _lugars_ are prepared during the +dry season, and the seed is sown in the tornado season, requiring about +four or five months growth to bring it to perfection. + +Yams, a nutritious substance, known in the West Indies. + +_Cassada_ or _cassava_, a root, of a pleasant taste when roasted or boiled, +and makes an excellent cake, superior in whiteness to flour. + +Papaw, of a deep green in its growth, but yellqw when ripe, and is an +excellent dish when boiled; its leaves are frequently used by the natives +for soap; ropes are made of the bark. + +Oranges and limes are in great abundance, and of superior quality, +throughout the year; but lemons degenerate much in their growth, and in a +few years are scarcely to be distinguished from the latter. Guavas, +pumpkins, or pumpions, squash water mellons, musk mellons, and cucumbers, +grow in the greatest perfection. The pumpkins grow in wild exuberance +throughout the year, and make a good pudding or pie. + +Indian corn, or maize, may be reaped several times throughout the year, +only requiring about three months growth. + +Millet, with a multiplicity too tedious to enumerate. + +Sugar canes are not very abundant, but are of a good quality, which, under +careful management and industry, would, no doubt, yield productive returns. + +Coffee trees, of different nondescript species, only requiring the same +interference. + +Dyes, of infinite variety and superior texture: yellow is procured from the +butter and tallow tree, producing a juice resembling gamboge, but more +cohesive, and of a darker colour; the wood of this tree is firm, and +adapted to a variety of purposes; its fruit is about the size of a tennis +ball, nearly oval, thick in the rind, and of a pleasant acid taste, +containing several seeds about the size of a walnut, and yielding a viscous +substance used by the natives in their food. Red and black are procured +from a variety of other trees and plants; and indigo growing in wild +exuberance, particularly in the rivers more to the northward. + +Cotton, in great varieties, requiring only cultivation to raise it to +perfection and amount. The natives manufacture from it a narrow cloth, +which is made from thread, spun in a manner similar to the distaff. + +A species of silk cotton, or ether down, is produced on a large tree, +called the pullam tree. The quantity which the usual size bears may be +computed at about 4 cwt. in pods of 6 to 9 inches long, 4-1/2 in +circumference, and about 1-1/2 inch in diameter, which, upon being exposed +to the heat of the sun, is distended to an incredible bulk. It is much +superior to down for the couch, and, from its elasticity, might be of great +utility in the manufacture of hats. This tree is in great estimation among +the Africans, and is frequently regarded by them as their _Fetish_. Every +town almost has a tree of this species towering over its huts, which its +chief tells the traveller with exultation he or his father planted. + +Tobacco is uncertain, but I entertain very little doubt that it might be +raised upon the more luxuriant soils. + +Pepper, more particularly near Cape Mount, of several sorts, Maboobo, +Massaaba, Massa, Amquona, Tosan, &c.; the three first are of a weaker +flavour, and are oblong and angular in their seeds; but the last excels in +pungency, and is the native Malaguetta pepper of Africa. + +The bread-fruit tree, is similar in appearance to the apple tree, and grows +in the low sandy situations of the Boolum shore, producing a fruit +exceedingly nutritious, and larger than an apple. + +Tamarinds in great variety and plenty: the velvet tamarind abounds in the +Bananas, also the white and brown; but the latter are most in esteem, and +are very fine. + +Okras, the fruit of a small tree, resembling the English mallows, which put +into soup gives it a gelatine quality, highly alimental; the leaves make a +good spinage. + +The palm tree, producing the oil so denominated, is one of the most useful +trees to the African, yielding him meat, drink, and raiment. Where it +grows, it is an indication of a good soil. It is remarkably tall, without +branches, having regular and gradual protuberances, from the bottom towards +the top, ending in five or six clusters of nuts, shaded by large deciduous +leaves. The nuts, which are about the size of a hazle nut, have a hard +kernel, encompassed by a clammy unctuous substance, covered by a thin skin, +and the oil is produced from them by being exposed to the sun, which, by +its influence, opens the juices; subsequent to this exposure, the nuts are +put into a boiler full of water, and a liquid, in the process of boiling, +flows upon the top, which when skimmed off, soon hardens and turns rancid; +the kernel of the nut, after this process, is taken out of the boiler, beat +in a paloon, and put into clear water, the shell of the nut sinks, and its +contents float upon the surface, which, when skimmed as before, is finally +put into a pot, fried, and carefully poured off, producing another kind of +oil, used as butter, and having in a great degree its quality. + +The wine is extracted from the tree by forming an incision at the bottom of +every cluster of nuts, from each of which flows about a gallon of wine per +day, for a week, when they are closed until the ensuing season. The liquid, +when newly taken from the tree, resembles whey, and in that state has a +sweetish agreeable taste, but it soon ferments and grows sour, changing to +a strong vinegar of a disagreeable smell: in its fermented state it is most +esteemed by the natives, and is productive of inebriety. + +A substance overtops the clusters about 10 or 12 inches in diameter, and 3 +or 4 feet in height, in a full grown tree, from whence proceeds a stalk, +about 4 inches in length, which, on being boiled in water, makes an +excellent vegetable resembling cabbage, or rather, in taste, the +cauliflower; the leaves of the tree are converted by the natives into +baskets, fishing nets, and cloth. + +MEDICINAL PLANTS. _Colla_ is highly esteemed by the natives, and they +attribute to it the virtues of Peruvian bark; the Portuguese, ascribe the +same quality to it, and dispatch from their factories small vessels to +collect all they can procure. + +_Castor Oil Rhinum_.-The bush which produces the bud from which this oil +and valuable medicine is extracted, grows in great exuberance upon the +Windward Coast, and its vicinity. A species of bark is in great abundance +also, and is said to be equal in virtue to the Peruvian. + +The foregoing enumeration of natural productions, is the result of +unscientific enquiry only; but unquestionably, industrious and professional +research, would discover infinitely more to philosophic and commercial +contemplation, and develope the arcana of nature, dormant here through +ignorance and barbarism. + +On the 10th of May, I set out from Bance Island, with the view of exploring +the two branches of the Sierra Leone river, the Rochelle, and the Port +Logo. After rowing a few hours I arrived at the factory of Miffaré, +formerly occupied by a Mr. Berauld, a Frenchman, but now attached to Bance +Island. + +Mr. Hodgkin, with his people, then in possession of the factory, +accompanied me up the Port Logo branch the following morning, taking a +number of towns in our way, and visiting the chiefs. The course of this +branch of the river is extremely serpentine, and is navigable for light +vessels to a little way from the town of Port Logo which is now the +residence of Alimami, a Mandingo chief, who assumes the title of emperor. +The banks are overgrown with the mangrove tree, interwoven together, so as +to form an almost impenetrable thicket, excluding the air, which, with the +extreme heat of the sun, and the noxious insects which are extracted by its +rays from the swamps and woods, renders this navigation intolerably +oppressive. The chief part of its trade is in slaves, camwood, and ivory, +the latter, however, being small, although Port Logo commands a very +extensive back country. When we came near the town of Port Logo, which is +extremely difficult of approach at low water, we announced our visit by +saluting in the manner of this country, which is what they call bush +firing, or in other words is a continued irregular firing of musquetry. + +It was soon discovered who we were, and crowds of natives flocked down from +the upper town, which is situated on the declivity of a hill, to give us +service, or to pay their respects. Our first visit was to _Marriba_, one of +Alimami's head men, and a resident of what they consider the lower town. + +Upon our arrival at Marriba's house, we found him at his devotions in the +palaver-house, a shed under which the natives daily assemble to pray, or +discuss public affairs. He received us with every demonstration of regard, +and immediately offered his services to conduct us to Alimami. The old +chief preceded us, with his long gold-headed cane, and our rear was brought +up by a number of armed men, who had assembled to give us a favourable +reception. Our salute had pleased Alimami, and being before known to him, +he was determined to shew us every respect. The heat of the sun was almost +intolerable, and before we arrived at the top of the hill where the +imperial palace stood, I was nearly exhausted. The entrance to this large +square of irregular mud buildings, is through a narrow passage or gate, +forming an oblong square of mud, covered with thatch, and facing Alimami's +house: we were ushered through this by one of his head men, and proceeded +in the order we set out to Alimami, who was seated at the top of the +square, surrounded by his chiefs, upon a mat spread upon a raised bank of +mud, dressed in a turban, after the Turkish fashion, and a loose manding, +robe, or shirt. + +Several pleaders were haranguing two of his judges, who were seated at a +distance, in palaver, or council, to take cognizance of a dispute relative +to some slaves; and although our arrival had excited the-curiosity of every +inhabitant of the town, yet we passed the tribunal without interruption, +their attention being absorbed on the subject of their sitting. The whole +compass of the square was scarcely equal to contain their oratory, their +voices being so extremely loud as to be heard distinctly, without the +walls, accompanied by menacing attitudes. Passing this declamatory +assembly, we paid our obeisance to Alimami, who was graciously pleased to +receive us in the manner of his country, with great civilities, and +immediately spread mats for us with his own hands, near himself. It was +impossible, although accustomed to these people, to contemplate the +surrounding objects without interest. I had previously been acquainted with +this chief at Bance Island, where he was in a high degree restrained by +European manners; but here, every thing was native and original. All came +to give us service, which is performed as I have mentioned. A goat and a +couple of fowls were next presented for our dinners, for which an offering +more valuable was expected, and of course complied with. This mutual +interchange of civilities being fulfilled, our attention was excited by the +orators, who by this time were extremely clamorous; one of them, with an +aspect the most furious, ran up to where I was seated, and addressing +Alimami, said, "that as proof his palaver be good, white man come to give +him service while he address him on the subject of his demand;" attaching +to that circumstance, the superstitious idea that he was right, and that I +was his _fetish_ to establish that right. + +I then enquired of Alimami the nature of the trial; he replied, "these men +tell their story, I appoint two judges to hear them, who are to report to +me what they say, and their opinions of the matter, but I hear all that +already and they cannot tell me wrong: I then give judgment," Or in other +words more expressive of his meaning; these men make their complaint to my +head men, or the judges I have appointed to hear it; it is their business +to make me a true report, and give me their opinion on the merits of the +case; and although I am not now supposed to hear it, yet I am so situated +as to hear the whole, and can thereby check any corrupt practices in the +judges. + +I had now leisure to examine the interior of Alimami's residence; it +consisted of a square of irregular buildings, thatched with bamboo, and +covered with roofs, supported by pillars of wood, at about 6 feet distance, +projecting about the same number of feet beyond the skeleton of the fabric, +and forming a kind of palisado, which serves as a shade for retirement from +the heat of the sun, and under which, the inhabitants indulge in repose, or +sit in familiar intercourse. + +During my conversation with Alimami, his brother, a fat jolly fellow, was +reposing himself upon his mat, reading his Arabic prayer book, which, upon +examination, I found executed in a neat character, and from his +interpretation, was a record of fabulous anecdotes of his family, and +containing confused extracts from the Koran. + +The Mandingos are professed Mahomedans, whose influence is spreading with +so much rapidity on this part of the coast, that several of the other +tribes have submitted to their authority; so strong an impression has their +superior attainments and book-knowledge imprinted on their minds. In no +instance can their growing influence appear more conspicuous than in that +of Alimami being vested with authority over the Port Logo, of which he is +not a native, and over a people originally infidels. Formerly this tribe of +Mandingos were itinerant _fetish_ makers and priests, but now they are +numerous to the northward of Sierra Leone, from whence a wide district +receives their rulers and chieftains. + +After an audience of considerable length, Alimami retired with several of +his chiefs, and soon after I had a message that he wished to see me in +another part of his dwelling. I had previously noticed to him that I +intended shortly to embark for my country. When conducted to his presence, +he very emphatically enquired "if what I tell him be true?" I replied "it +was; but that I go to do him and his countrymen good; that he know this was +the second time I look them, but never forget them." "We all know that," he +replied, "but white man that come among us, never stay long time; you be +good man, and we wish you live among us--How many moon you be gone from +us?"--"About ten moon; how would you like to go with me, Alimami?"--"I +like that much, but black man not be head enough to do what white man +does;" and putting his hand to his bosom, he took from it a piece of gold +in the form of a heart; and said, "take that for me." To have refused it +would have been an insult; I therefore accepted it; adding, "that I would +tie it to fine riband, and wear it when I look my country, to let +Englishmen see what fine present he make me." He was quite pleased with the +idea, and expressed his satisfaction with great fervency. + +Soon after, I offered to take my leave, and was accompanied by him and his +chiefs to the gate, where I bade him adieu, and passed through the town, +paying my respects to its inhabitants, and among others, to the +schoolmaster, whose venerable appearance, and superior intelligence, +excited my respect and esteem. + +Upon our return to Marriba's house, we were happy to partake of a country +mess of rice, boiled with fowls, palm oil, and other compounds. The chief +could not be prevailed to eat with us, but attended us with great assiduity +during our meal. The imperial guard accompanied us to our canoe, and we +returned to Miffaré without accident. + +The following morning we proceeded to the branch of the Rochell, which we +found more diversified and picturesque than the Port Logo, and its borders +better inhabited. + +Proceeding up this branch, and visiting the chiefs in our way, and the +inhabitants of a number of villages, we arrived at Billy Manshu's Town, a +little chief of very considerable intelligence, and who treated us with +great hospitality: here we slept. + +We arose early, and pursued our course up the branch, passing one of the +most regular built towns I have observed in Africa, now Morrey Samba's, but +formerly Morrey Bunda's Town. Morrey Bunda was originally a Manding, and +_fetish_ maker to Smart, the chief who commands an extensive country on +that side of the Rochell branch towards the Sherbro, and rose into notice +and influence: he is now dead. The town is surrounded by a mud wall, and at +the entrance, and upon each angle of the oblong square which encloses it, +there are towers erected for the purposes of defence. The wall, with the +towers, completely obscures the buildings which form the town, and serve as +a guard against any depredations of enemies, while it shelters the +inhabitants from the effects of their arrows or musquetry. Morrey Bunda has +displayed in his plans of fortifications, considerable ingenuity, +considering the circumstances he had to provide against, and the predatory +nature of African wars, which are uniformly to surprise the inhabitants of +a village or town while asleep, or in any other unguarded state, seldom or +ever coming to a general engagement in the open country, but acting under +the protection of some ambush, or other place of security, which, while it +is calculated to conceal their numbers, serves as a retreat from their +successful opponents. + +Leaving Morrey Samba's we passed by a number of other villages, until we +arrived at one of Smart's trading towns, called Mahera, situated upon an +eminence, and commanding a most delightful prospect of the meandering +course of the river, interspersed with islands, displaying a great +diversity of appearance. + +Smart has very wisely chosen this spot, as it is not only a charming +situation, healthy, and delightful, but well situated to command a very +extensive internal trade in camwood and ivory, besides being contiguous to +the Sherbro, from whence a great portion of the camwood is procured, and +situated on the principal branch of the Sierra Leone. In addition to these +local advantages, he has recently opened a path with the interior, +communicating with the Foolah country, which is entirely under his +influence, and which he can open and shut at pleasure. It would be of +incalculable advantage to any operation to secure the friendship of this +chief: he possesses a very superior mind, and, from his connection with +Bance Island, has acquired a knowledge of European ideas and manners seldom +to be met with among any of the chiefs on this part of the coast. From the +various opportunities I have had to consult Smart on his general sentiments +relative to his country, and the freedom of intercourse I have had with +him, I am well persuaded that he would be a powerful and intelligent +auxiliary in promoting the civilization of his country, upon a liberal +principle, calculated to its condition, and having a tendency to eradicate +its barbarism; but he is one, of many more upon this quarter of the coast, +who have no reliance upon the attempts that have been made, and deplores, +with regret, that through the want of a correct knowledge of the +dispositions of his countrymen, an ignorance of the nature of the evil to +be removed, and the invidious principles which constituted the +establishments that have been formed to promote this beneficent +undertaking, his country is still excluded from the light of truth, and the +refined arts of civilized life. + +From Mahera we proceeded to Rochell, another of Mr. Smart's towns, more +insular, where I expected to have met him, in conformity with an +arrangement previously made, to visit him at his towns, and see, as he +observed, his country fashion. Upon our reaching this point of our +expedition, we were saluted by a numerous assemblage of chiefs and natives, +going to join my friend Smart in one of his wars with his opposite +neighbours and rivals, the Cammarancies, inhabiting the country towards the +Port Logo. The cause of quarrel was, that these people had seized upon the +rafts and canoes which brought the camwood over the falls higher up the +river, and had demolished several storehouses belonging to Smart and his +people, engaged in that trade. Smart, with a part of his forces, had +crossed the river only an hour before, and another division were embarking +to join him at a place of rendezvous upon the enemy's territory, with the +intention of cautiously approaching during the night to some of their +towns, and surprising them before they had arisen from sleep. Nothing could +exceed the novelty of this sight; the chiefs and their followers were armed +with their bows and arrows, and other rude implements of war, and +completely in their native character; in addition to their native weapons, +some had musquets, procured from Europeans in trade, swords, and various +other manufacture, supplied by traders, exhibiting an appearance, of which +no idea can be formed, without a personal knowledge of this barbarous +people. The chiefs, in particular, were covered with _gris-gris_ and +_fetishes_, a mixture of feathers and other preposterous materials, +calculated to obliterate any trace of human appearance, and possessing the +virtue, as they conceived, of shielding them from danger. Solemn _palaver_ +is always held upon these occasions, and their _gris-gris_ makers, _fetish_ +men, and priests, exorcise their absurd decorations, which, in their +estimation, operate as guardian angels in the hour of difficulty and peril. + +Having occasion to visit a gentleman resident at some distance, we left our +canoes at Rochell, and proceeded on foot. _Cabba_, one of the chiefs, +accompanied us with a guard, being apprehensive, as he observed, that "bad +might happen us, as war live in the country." We passed through a +remarkably fertile country, presenting an infinite variety of natural +productions. Our path was frequently lined with pine-apples, in all the +luxuriance of nature; but amidst this animating landscape, we beheld +deserted villages, ravaged by the ferocious hand of man; and all the traces +of barbarous devastation. We fell in with several armed parties, with whom +I conversed upon the subject of the war, which appeared to be of a +predatory nature, and the consequence of insatiate avarice and barbarous +habits. + +At length we arrived, much fatigued, at Mr. Green's (at Massou), with whom +we rested for the night, receiving every kindness and attention in his +power to bestow. I am indebted to this gentleman for a variety of useful +information relative to a wide extent of country. His education and +acquirements are of the first class, and I could not view such a man, +insulated from polished society, which he was qualified to adorn, and shut +up in the wilds of Africa, among barbarians, without a mixture of pain and +surprise; nor did I depart from him without sympathy and regret, after he +had confided to me his motives, and the outlines of his life, which were +marked with eventful incidents, and extraordinary occurrences. + +It was my object to have proceeded from Massou to Rocond, the principal +town of Smart's residence, and from thence to penetrate to the falls of the +river, which, from every information I received, exhibit a sublime scene; +but, on account of the disturbed state of the country, and that chiefs +absence, I was obliged to give up my intention, and return to Rochell, from +whence we rowed down the river to the town of our little hospitable chief, +Billy Manshu; where we stayed the night. The following day we arrived safe +at Miffaré; and although Smart had given orders at Mahera to stop all +canoes, we were suffered to pass; the chiefs observing, "that they knew we +would not tell their enemies, when we came among them, what we saw them +do." Had we been strangers, it is more than probable we should have fallen +victims to the fury of these barbarians, who, in the towns we passed, were +excited to a savage fierceness, highly descriptive of the natural ferocity +of the African character. + +At Miffaré, formerly occupied by Monsieur Berauld, as previously noticed, +who had lately paid the common debt of nature, and who was here buried by +his own desire, I had the opportunity of ascertaining a singular custom +prevalent in this country towards the dead, and which strongly elucidates +the prevailing ideas of its inhabitants, relative to the immortality of the +soul and a future state. + +After Monsieur Berauld's interment, his women, and the head people of the +town, assembled round the grave occasionally, for a series of days, +requiring every evening, from Mr. Hodgkin, a candle to light his grave, +which they kept burning during the period of their mourning, under the idea +that it would light him in the other world. In addition to this, a still +more singular rite was performed on this occasion, by Alimami, of the Port +Logo, and a numerous assemblage of natives, who sacrificed a bull to the +departed spirit of Berauld, who was held in great estimation among them. +From authority I cannot doubt, I am persuaded that when slaves have been +redundant, human sacrifices have been offered to the manes of their +favourite chiefs and princes. This horrid custom, which is even extended, +in many of the districts of Africa, to the productions of the earth, is a +most serious subject to contemplate, and a feature of barbarism, pregnant +with melancholy consequences to that class of beings, whom a late +legislative act has abandoned to contingencies, and the uncontrolled power +and avarice of other nations. + + + +CHAPTER VI. + + + + +_Return to Bance Island.--General Observations on the Commerce, Religion, +Customs, and Character of the Natives upon the Windward Coast.--An Account +of the requisite Merchandize for Trade, the best Mode of introducing +natural Commerce and Civilization into Africa, &c._ + + +The morning after my last arrival at Miffaré I returned to Bance Island; +before I leave it, it may not perhaps be considered as inexpedient at this +stage of my narrative, to submit to my readers an account of the present +state of commerce upon the Windward Coast of Africa, the merchandize used +therein, a general outline of the religion, customs, and character of its +natives, and the system I conceive eligible, and consistent with the +claims of humanity, by which their intellectual powers may be improved, and +their enslaved state ameliorated; while our commercial ascendency may be +preserved with this region of the earth, and our enemies excluded from +those important advantages, which it only requires intelligence and +enterprise to unfold. + +In accomplishing this important part of my duty I beg leave to state, that +my reflections are the result of much deliberation upon the subject, +derived from manifold sources of information, and that I am the zealous +advocate of the radical abolition of the slavery of the human kind. The +motives by which I am actuated are, a philanthropic feeling for my species, +Christian principles, humanity, and justice: however I may differ, in the +means I shall propose, from many truly benevolent characters, yet I trust +that they will do me the justice to consider that my intentions are +congenial with theirs in the cause of humanity. + +I shall confine myself to a digested summary of actual observations on the +trade, laws, customs, and manners of the people I have had occasion to +visit; nor shall I attempt to enter into a minute detail on subjects +already ably delineated to British merchants, and with which they are +intimately conversant; but I shall treat of those branches of commerce +which have been hitherto confined to local knowledge, and not generally +known; submitting to the superior powers of the legislature, the +incalculable advantages to be derived by their interference to promote the +agricultural and commercial establishments upon the maritime districts of +Africa, as the only appropriate measure to attain a facility of intercourse +with the interior, and to enlarge the circle of civilised society. + +If my endeavours tend to increase the commerce of my country, and +eventually to emancipate the African, my design will be accomplished, and +my fondest hopes will be gratified. + +In pursuance of my plan, I shall first detail the present number of slaves, +and dead cargo, annually exported, upon an average, from the Windward Coast +of Africa, &c. from the information acquired from the traders of most +intelligence in respective rivers, and from my own observation. + + + +| | | | | | | |Amount +| | | | | | | |Sterling +| NAMES OF PLACES |A |B |C |D |E |F | £ +|---------------------|-------|----|----|------|----|----|--------- +|River Gambia, and | | | | | | | +|Island of Goree . . .| 2,000 | 15 |-- |-- |150 |-- | 60,250 +|Rio Noonez. . . . . .| 600 | 20 |-- |-- |-- |-- | 19,000 +|Rio Pongo . . . . . .| 2,000 | 30 |60 |-- |-- |-- | 52,000 +|River Sierra Leone, | | | | | | | +|adjacent Rivers, | | | | | | | +|and Isles de Loss, | 3,200 | 15 |200 |800 |-- |-- | 82,250 +|inclusive . . . . . .| | | | | | | +|River Sherbro . . . .| 500 |-- |200 |300 |-- |-- | 18,000 +|---- Gallunas. . . .| 1,200 |-- | 80 |-- |-- |-- | 26,000 +|Cape Mount to | | | | | | | +|Cape Palmas . . . . .| 2,000 | 20 |-- |-- |-- |100 | 48,000 +| |-------|----|----|------|----|----|-------- +| |11,500 |100 |540 |1,100 |150 |100 |305,500 + + +A-Slaves, B-Ivory, C-Camwood, D-Rice, E-Bees Wax, F-Malaguetta Pepper + + + +Estimating slaves at 20_l_. each; ivory, 350_l_.; camwood, 25_l_.; rice, +10_l_.; wax, 100_l_.; and Malaguetta pepper, 10_l_. per ton, at first cost +upon the coast of Africa; the whole produces the sum of 305,500_l_. +sterling; to which may be added a three-fold export to leeward, which will +make an aggregate amount of nearly _one million_ sterling. In addition to +the foregoing exemplification, we have to contemplate the great +multiplicity of natural productions, abounding in this extent of region, +namely, indigo, numerous plants for staining, cotton in wild exuberance, +cocoa, coffee, and aromatic plants, &c. &c. Wild bees are so extremely +numerous, that wax forms an important article of trade which might be +considerably increased; substances proper for making soap are also to be +found in great abundance, raw hides, more especially in the Gambia, and the +countries insular to the Rio Noonez and Rio Pongo; gold is procured from +Bambouk, and tobacco is found in every direction, which might be greatly +increased by cultivation and an improved soil; cattle, poultry, Guinea +hens, different species of game, fish, with other animals; fruits, and a +variety of vegetable productions, calculated to satisfy every luxurious +want and desire. To these objects of commerce may be added, the now +important article of sugar, which might be raised to a great amount, in +various districts of Africa, as the climate is propitious to the growth of +the sugarcane, which, under proper cultivation, might be raised in great +perfection. + +The lands upon the banks of the Gambia, the Rio Noonez, the Rio Grande, the +Rio Pongo, in the Mandingo country, Sierra Leone, Sherbro, &c. are +universally allowed to be extremely fertile in many places, and abundant in +vegetation and population. + +These countries produce various hard woods, well adapted to cabinet work +and ship building, and are singular in their qualites and properties. + +The most remarkable are, 1st. the cevey, or kinney wood, which grows about +the size of the oak, in England, and may be cut into planks of 20 feet by +15 inches. Its texture is something of the ash grey and mahogany, +variegated with stripes, fancifully disposed, and is therefore adapted to +cabinet work; its qualities for ship building are peculiar, having the +virtue of resisting the worm and vermis, so destructive to shipping in +tropical climates, and corroding iron; it grows in great abundance. Any +quantity of this wood put into water sufficient to cover it, will, in a few +hours, produce an unctuous substance floating on the top, resembling +verdigrise, and of a poisonous quality. + +Secondly, the dunjay wood, rather coarser in the grain, but harder in +quality than the Spanish Bay mahogany. It possesses the same peculiarities +as the cevey or kinney, in resisting the worm in salt water, and corroding +iron. It may be procured in any quantity. And, Thirdly, the melley wood, or +_gris-gris_ tree, another species of mahogany, abundant in growth, having a +more rare quality than the foregoing, resisting the worm in both salt and +fresh water; it is extremely hard, and its juices so poisonous, in the +premature state, as to cause instant death. + +The manifold and neglected productions of this extraordinary continent +require only to be developed, and when the useful arts of Europe are +introduced here, ample recompense will attend the benevolent undertaking, +natural history will be much enlarged, and mankind be greatly benefited. +The claims of humanity, the distinguished part it has taken in an unnatural +and much to be deplored commerce, loudly unite with a wise policy, in one +impressive appeal to the feelings of the more refined inhabitants of +Europe, and to none more than those of Englishmen. + +The goods adapted to African commerce are, + +_East India goods_--consisting of bafts, byrampauats, chilloes, romals, +neganipauts, niccanees, red and blue chintz, Guinea stuffs, bandanoes, +sastracundies, &c. + +_Manchester goods_.--Cotton chilloes, cushtaes, neganipauts, photaes, romal +handkerchiefs, silk handkerchiefs, &c. _Linen Britanias_, slops, spirits, +tobacco, guns, swords, trade chests, cases, jars, powder, umbrellas, boats, +canvas, cordage, pitch, tar, paints, oil, and brushes, empty kegs, kettles, +pans, lead basons, earthenware, hardware, beads, coral, iron bars, lead +bars, common caps, Kilmarnock ditto, flints, pipes, leg and hand manilloes, +snuff boxes, tobacco boxes, cargo hats, fine ditto, hair trunks, knives, +looking glasses, scarlet cloth, locks, shot, glass ware, stone ware, +provisions, bottled ale and porter, &c. &c. + +The foregoing general enumeration may serve to convey a just conception of +the various manufactures requisite in the African trade, and the different +branches to which it is allied, yeilding support to a numerous body of +merchants, manufacturers, artizans, and many of the labouring class of the +community. + +Generally speaking, the Africans are unacquainted with specie as a +circulating medium of commerce, although they form to themselves an ideal +standard, by which they estimate the value of the commodities in barter; +this, however, fluctuates on various parts of the coast. + +From Senegal to Cape Mesurado, the medium of calculation is termed a _bar_; +from thence to the eastward of Cape Palmas, the computation is in _rounds_; +and on the Gold Coast in _ackies_ of gold, equal to 4_l_. sterling, and of +trade only half that value. + +At Goree the bar, under the French, was 4, pieces of 24 sous, and 1 of 6; +but at present the bar is considered a dollar. + +The bar is by no means a precise value, but subject to much variation; the +quantity and quality of the articles materially differing in many parts of +the coast, and frequently on rivers of a near vicinity; for example, six +heads of tobacco are equal in trade to a bar, as is a gallon of rum, or a +fathom of chintz. + +A piece of cloth which, in one place, will only pass for 6 bars, will in +others fluctuate to 10; hence the trader must form an average standard, to +reduce his assortment to an equilibrium. + +The following are the barter prices now established throughout a +considerable extent of the Windward Coast; but it is to be observed, they +are subject to fluctuation from locality of situation and other +circumstances. + + + + 1 blue baft 6 bars + 1 bonny chintz & stripe 8 + 1 white baft 6 + 1 byrampaut 6 + 1 chilloe 6 + 1 bijudapaut 6 + 1 cushtae 5 + 1 bonny blue romal 5 + 1 niccanee 5 + 1 sastracundie 4 + 1 India cherridery 6 + 1 taffety 15 + 1 cottanee 12 + 1 dozen britannias 8 + 1 piece of bandanas 6 + 1 barrel of powder 60 + 1 fowling gun 8 + 1 burding 6 + 1 soldier's gun 5 bars + 1 buccanier ditto 6 + 1 dozen of cutlasses 8 + 1 sword blade 2 + 1 iron bar 1 + 1000 arangoes 30 + 1 bunch of point beads 1 + 1 bunch of mock coral 1 + Red pecado 3lb. for 1 + Seed beads, ditto 1 + Battery ditto 1 + 1 Mandingo kettle 1 + 1 dozen of hardware 3 + 1 bason 1 + 1 ton of salt 60 + 1 fine hat 3 + Tobacco, 6lb. to 1 + Rum, per gallon 1 + + + +Prime ivory is procured at a bar per lb, and _escrevals_, or pieces under +20lb. 1 bar for each 1-1/2lb. + +As the natives are unacquainted with arithmetic, their numerical +calculations are carried on by counters of pebbles, gun-flints, or cowries. + +After the number of bars is decided upon, a counter, or pebble, &c. is put +down, representing every bar of merchandize, until the whole is exhausted, +when the palaver is finished; and, as they have very little idea of the +value of time, they will use every artifice of delay and chicane to gain a +bar. + +In matters of less consequence they reckon with their fingers, by bending +the little finger of the right hand close to the palm, and the other +fingers in succession, proceeding to the left hand, concluding the +calculation by clapping both the hands together; and if it requires to be +extended, the same process is repeated. + +Among the Foulahs in particular, commercial transactions are carried on +with extreme tardiness; a _palaver_ is held over every thing they have for +barter. The season in which they chiefly bring their trade to the coast is +during the dry months, and they generally travel in caravans, under the +control of a chief or head man. The head man of the party expects to be +lodged and accommodated by the factor, and before they enter upon business, +he expects the latter _to give him service_, or a present of kola, +Malaguetta pepper, tobacco, palm oil, and rice; if they eat of the kola, +and the present is not returned, the head man begins the trade, by making a +long speech, in which he magnifies the difficulties and dangers he has had +to surmount, &c.; mutual interpreters report this harangue. The trade for +rice is settled with little delay, but every tooth of ivory requires a new +palaver, and they will dispute for a whole day for a bar with the most +determined firmness. + +When the palaver and trade is gone through, they again expect a present, +and if they are pleased with the factor, they march off singing his +praises, which they communicate to all they meet on the road. + +The annual return from this commerce in colonial productions, has been from +_two_ to _three millions sterling_; for although large remittances have +been made in bills to the African merchants, yet these bills have been +provided for in produce by the planters. Politically considered, it will +appear, that its regeneration might have been more appropriately the +progressive work of time; and humanely viewed, it will also appear, from my +subsequent remarks, that by those means alone the African can be freed from +his shackles, and his condition efficaciously improved. + +But to proceed with the intention of this chapter, I shall next make some +remarks on the religion, customs, and character of the natives of the +Windward Coast. + +The natives on this part of the coast, and indeed throughout Africa, are in +general extremely superstitious; they believe in witchcraft, incantations, +and charms, and in certain Mahomedan doctrines, adopted from itinerant +devotees and priests of that persuasion, who are numerous among them, and +make a trade of selling charms. The Baggoes, Nellos, Susees, Timinees, &c. +occasionally worship and offer sacrifices to the Devil, and are equally +confused in their conception of the Supreme Being, of whose attributes they +entertain an assemblage of indistinct ideas, of which it is impossible to +give any clear description. They will tell the traveller with great apathy, +"they never saw him, and if he live he be too good to hurt them." Their +acts of devotion are the consequence of fear alone, and are apparently +divested of any feelings of thankfulness or gratitude for the blessing they +receive from the good Spirit which they suppose to exist. The Devil, or +evil spirit, which they suppose to exist also, claims their attention from +the injury they suppose him capable of inflicting, and is worshipped under +a variety of forms; at one time in a grove, or under the shade of a large +tree, consecrated to his worship, they place, for the gratification of his +appetite; a _country mess_, a goat, or other offering of this nature, which +they may conceive to be acceptable to his divinity, who, however, is often +cozened out of the offering by some sacreligious and more corporeal +substance, to whose nature and wants it is more congenial; at some periods +great faith is attached to their _fetish_, as an antidote against evil; and +at others the alligator, the snake, the guava, and a number of other living +animals and inanimate substances are the objects of their worship. Like +other unenlightened nations, a variety of external beings supply the want +of the principles of Christianity; hence the counterfeit adoption and +substitution of corporate qualities as objects of external homage and +reverence. + +_Fetish_, derived from the word _Feitico_, denotes witchcraft among the +majority of the maritime nations of Africa: this superstition is even +extended to some Europeans after a long residence in that country, and is +an expression of a compound meaning, forming an arrangement of various +figures, which constitute the objects of adoration, whether intellectually +conceived, or combined with corporeal substances; even the act of devotion +itself; or the various charms, incantations, and buffoonery of the priests +and fetish makers, who abound among them. In short, it is an incongruous +composition of any thing dedicated to the purpose; one kind of fetish is +formed of a piece of parchment containing an expression or sentence from +the Koran, which is associated with other substances, sewed up in a piece +of leather, and worn upon several parts of their bodies. Another kind is +placed over the doors of their huts, composed of distorted images besmeared +with palm oil, and stuck with feathers, some parts are tinged with blood, +and the whole is bedaubed with other preposterous applications. + +_Ghresh_, or _Gresh_, is an expression in the Arabic tongue, meaning to +expel or drive away, and, as I apprehend, by the repetition of the word, is +the expression from which the African _gris-gris_ is derived, consisting of +exorcised feathers, cloth, &c., short sentences from the Koran, written on +parchment, and enclosed in small ornamented leathern cases, worn about +their persons, under the idea that it will keep away evil spirits, and is a +species of _fetish_. + +The Mandingos, or book-men, are great _fetish_ makers, many of them being +well versed in the Arabic tongue, and writing it in a neat character. From +the impression of their superior learning and address, their influence and +numbers daily increase, many of them having become rulers and chiefs in +places where they sojourned as strangers, The religion they profess in +common with the Foolahs, Jolliffs, and other Mahomedan tribes, is +peculiarly adapted to the sensual effiminacy of the Africans: the doctrines +of Mahomet contained in their book I have procured from a very intelligent +chief in the Rio Pongo, and when I compare his account with others of his +nation on this part of the coast, the Foolahs, and the Mahomedan tribes in +the vicinity of the Island of Goree, I am persuaded the following is the +portion of the Islam faith believed by them. + +1st. That God is above all, and not born of woman. + +2d. That Mahomet stands between God and man, to intercede for him; that he +is superior to all beings born of woman, and is the favorite of God. And, + +3d. That he has prepared for the meanest of his followers and believers +_seventy-two bouris_, or black-eyed girls of superior beauty, who are to +administer to all their pleasures, and participate with them in the +enjoyment of the fountains and groves of paradise, and in the gratification +of those appetites congenial to their nature and existence in this world. +This nearly amounts to the entire belief of Mahomet's doctrine, which is +nothing but a compound of this eternal truth and necessary fiction; namely, +"that there is only one God, and Mahomet is the apostle of God:" from +hence, in the idiom of the Koran, the belief of God is inseparable from the +apostolic character of Mahomet. The fertile and politic imagination of this +impostor admirably adapted his tenets to the prevailing and established +customs; he tolerates polygamy, &c. and to add to the sanctity of his +pernicious doctrines, he represents himself as having been visited by the +angel Gabriel, in the cave of Hera, where he communicated to him the +precepts of the Koran, in the month of Ramadan, which he enjoins as a fast; +he interdicts wine, and inculcates the necessity of praying five times a +day, facing the holy city, &c.; forming together a system of the most +insidious character towards the establishment of pure Christianity. In the +performance of the duties of their belief, the Mahomedan nations of Africa, +upon the coast, are exact and scrupulous, but they have no idea of the +intellectual doctrines of the Islam faith, or the happiness described by +Mahomet as enjoyed by superior saints in the beatitude of vision; they are +as perplexed on this subject as they are in their conceptions of the divine +nature, and discover a surprising contraction of mental powers, when +considered as human beings endowed with reason. + +The nations, upon the Windward Coast, are in general little influenced by +belief in their actions. Forgiveness of injuries they conceive incompatible +with the nature of man; and a spirit of retaliation is very prevalent and +hereditary, descending in succession from father to son. They are extremely +jealous of white men, designing, ferocious, and cowardly; but there are, +notwithstanding, a great variety of localities existing among them, and it +will be found that their climate and habits are closely assimilated. + +To the Africans, the indispensible articles of life are reduced to a very +narrow compass, and they are unacquainted with the insatiate wants of +Europeans. The heat of the climate renders cloathing an incumberance, and +occasions a carelessness with regard to their dwellings: for the former, +they require only a stripe of linen, and their _gris-gris_; while a +building of mud, covered with an interwoven and thatched roof, forms the +latter, which is reared with little labour, and, when circumstances require +it, is abandoned without much regret. + +The food of the Negro consists chiefly of rice, millet, &c. seasoned with +palm oil, butter, or the juices of the cocoa-nut tree mixed with herbs of +various kinds. They frequently regale themselves with other dishes, +kous-kous, and country mess, to which they sometimes add fowls, fish, and +flesh, heightened in the flavour by a variety of savory applications. + +A contracted system of agriculture, conducted by their women and slaves, in +a very few days prepares the _lugars_, or cultivated fields; and the +harvest is distributed by the elders of the community, according to the +portion and wants of the society of the village, or is stored up to be +portioned out as circumstances may require. + +Water is the ordinary drink of the Negroes; they, however, regale +themselves with a wine extracted from the palm tree, as before described, +which, in the luxury of indulgence, they frequently suck through a very +small kind of cane, until inebriety and stupidity absorb them in a perfect +state of apathy. They have also a very pleasant beverage, extracted from +the cocoa nut and banana tree, besides several descriptions of beer, +fermented from various roots and herbs. In the Rio Pongo, and adjacent +countries, especially in the Bashia branch of that river, the Soosees +extract a fermented and intoxicating liquor from a root growing in great +abundance, which they call _gingingey_, something similar to the sweet +potatoe in the West Indies. The distillation is commenced by forming a pit +in the earth, into which a large quantity of the root is put, and covered +with fuel, which is set on fire, and kept burning until the roots are +completely roasted: the roots are then put into paloons, and beat, exposed +afterwards in mats to the sun, by which they acquire a taste similar to +honey; and are afterwards put into hampers for distillation. This is +performed by making a funnel of sticks in a conical form, interwoven +together like basket-work; the funnel is filled with the material, and +water poured upon it; the succulent moisture therefrom passes through a +tube, and yields a liquid similar in colour to coffee, and of a violent +purgative quality. It remains in this state about twenty-four hours, and is +then incorporated with a quantity of the ashes of rice-straw, which excites +a bubbling fermentation like boiling water, after which it becomes fit for +use. In forty-eight hours it returns again to its purgative state, which +interval is employed in drinking most copiously, until overtaken by +insensibility and intoxication. The root, in its roasted state, is an +excellent medicine for colds. + +Indigo and cotton grow in wild exuberance almost every where, without +culture, and the women collect such quantities as they consider requisite +for their families, which they prepare and spin upon a distaff; the thread +is woven, by an apparatus of great simplicity, into fillets, or pieces from +six to nine inches broad, which are sewed together to any width, required +for use. The indigo, in its indigenous state, and a variety of other +plants, colour these cloths, an ell of which will serve as a dress for a +Negroe of the lower class. + +They manufacture cloths, of a very fanciful pattern, from various +substances. I have some from the rind of the cocoa-nut, of great beauty, +and a fine texture; also cloth, fine mats, baskets, hats, ornaments, +quivers, arrows, &c. which all prove the taste and ingenuity of the +natives. + +The Negro is attached by love about his thirteenth year, and from sixteen +to twenty he seeks the object of his affection. This choice generally +continues in his confidence during life; and in proportion as he acquires +wealth, he associates with her several concubines, who generally live +cordially together. From this acquisition to his household, he is +considered rich; and it is a common expression with the Negro to say, "such +a man be rich, he have much woman." When an object excites his desire, he +consults his head woman, who, without any apparent suspicion of rivalry, +gives her assent, and forwards his suit; but she is displeased when not +consulted; and it is not uncommon that the object falls a victim to her +jealousy. Celibacy is a state almost unknown in Africa; and when it does +occur, it is considered as a degradation. + +The Negroe's existence is almost a gratuitous gift of nature; his wants are +supplied without laborious exertion, his desires are gratified without +restraint, his soul remains in peaceful indolence and tranquillity, and his +life glides on in voluptuous apathy and tranquil calm: he has few +solicitudes or apprehensions, and he meets the stroke of fate with perfect +resignation. + +In the countries which I have visited, and, as I understand from others, +every principal village or town has its _bantaba_, or _palaver-house_, +which I have before described. In this house, or under the shade of some +venerable tree, all ranks occasionally assemble in groups, from sun-rising +to sun-set, and pass the time in chit-chat, or in conversation on public +affairs. Their subjects are inexhaustible, and their tittle-tattle is +carried on with surprising volubility, gaiety, and delight; their time thus +occupied is so seducing, that they separate with great reluctance, +sometimes passing the entire day in this, pratling, smoaking, and +diversion: night, however, terminates these amusements: They assemble in +the open air during the dry season, and under the palaver-houses in the +wet, where they form themselves into dancing companies, generally during +half the night, and not unfrequently the whole of it. Their instruments of +music are upon a very rude construction, consisting of a _tabila_, or drum, +hollowed out from a piece of wood, and covered at each end with a bull's +hide, producing a most barbarous noise, accompanied by a _baba_, or rattle, +loud shouts, palaver, songs, and violent gesticulations, forming a system +of confused uproar, unmusical, and ungraceful. Their motions are irregular, +sometimes in violent contortion, and at others voluptuous and slow. Nothing +can be done without a palaver; and at the change of every dance, he from +whom the proposition originates, makes a solemn harangue over the musical +instruments, which is generally descriptive of some warlike action or +exploit, when they again give themselves up with rapture to the pleasures +of the dance, the females in particular, whose actions and shew of +luxuriant pleasure are highly offensive to delicacy, exhibiting all the +gradations of lascivious attitude and indecency. At this period of unusual +delight, they are applauded by the men with rapturous ardour; but suddenly +a feeling of shame strikes the minds of the young creatures with a +humiliating sense of their display, and amidst these plaudits they hastily +retire to the matrons, who are spectators of the scene, and hide their +blushes in their bosoms. So strongly implanted is this ingenuous and +amiable modesty in youth, which is frequently laid aside when engaged in +the vortex of pleasure, that it is one of the highest charms of beauty; and +wretches only, degraded by debauchery and systematic vice, are capable of +insulting this sentiment. A scrupulous regard to modesty and truth will not +permit me to pursue the description of these amusements farther than +observing, that they prepare them for a profound and tranquil sleep on +their mats, from whence they arise at the dawn of day cheerful and easy. +Thus infancy and youth are singularly happy, and mothers attend their +offspring with maternal feeling and delight; they are neither disturbed by +painful commands or restraint; and it is a picture of perfect happiness to +see these children of nature in sportive groups and infantine diversion. +This happy infancy and gay youth is peculiarly calculated to organise a +vigorous manhood, and a firm old age; and, I am persuaded, that these are +the physical causes why the Negro race are so muscular in body, and +procreative of their species. In some countries innoculation is practised; +but the small pox is not so common, or dreadful in its effects, in these +countries as in Europe. The greatest term of their lives may be computed at +from sixty to seventy years, it seldom or ever happening that life is +prolonged beyond that period in this part of Africa. They retain their +vigour, and enjoy a permanent and regular state of health until the last; +and I have observed a venerable chief of advanced years having the +possession of a dozen of young handsome wives, and the father of a young +progeny, whose legitimacy was never disputed or suspected. In Europe the +last stage of man is a daily anticipation of dissolution; but in Africa, +declining years are only insensible approaches to the termination of a +journey, the event of which he considers as the end of life, unconscious of +the future, but as a fatality equally attached to all the creation. + +The picture I have endeavoured to delineate may serve to convey an idea to +the mind of the moral and physical state of Africa, which, undisturbed by +ferocious barbarism, fierce hostilities, and horrid customs, convey a +blissful and happy state of being; but, alas! we must now take another +view, and contemplate these beings in the most degrading state, absorbed in +superstitious idolatry, inhuman customs, and shut out from the civil arts +of life, and the mild principles of Christianity. Their customs, their +hostilities, slavery, and the mode I have conceived requisite to +infranchise this unhappy race of men, I shall attempt to represent in the +following chapter; and happy shall I feel if the description excites the +attention and interference of more capacious minds on this subject, +interesting to so large a portion of the human race, and to the claims of +humanity. + + + +CHAPTER VII. + + + + +_The Mode of Trial by_ Ordeal _and_ Red Water _in Africa.--The Wars of its +Inhabitants.--The State of Barbarism and Slavery considered.--The Condition +of the Africans will not be improved by a late Legislative Act, without +further Interference.--Salutary Measures must be adopted towards the +Negroes in the Colonies.--A System suggested to abolish Slavery in Africa, +and the Slave Trade in general, and to enlarge the intellectual Powers of +its Inhabitants.--The proper Positions to effect an Opening to the Interior +of Africa, and to display to the World its manifold Resources._ + + +Trial by _ordeal_ in Africa is a punishment for petty thefts and +delinquincies. Trial by _red water_ is generally applied to crimes of +greater magnitude. After the usual ceremonial of calling a palaver, the +operation is performed by heating a piece of iron in the fire, the hand of +the accused is dipped into a viscous preparation, and the iron is +immediately drawn horizontally over the palm of the hand. If the judges +(one of whom is always the executioner) have previously determined, in +defiance of all the evidence, to prove the culprit guilty, the consequence +is that the flesh is seared; but if they are predisposed to acquit him, the +iron is dexterously applied so as to absorb the unctuous surface on the +hand without affecting it, and a sentence of not guilty is pronounced. + +Trial by _red water_ consists in making the accused drink a quantity of +water, into which is infused the poisonous juice of the melley or +_gris-gris_ tree; this is prepared by these _equitable_ judges, and +applied upon the same fraudulent principles as in the trial by the _ordeal +of fire_; it is, however, less resorted to. If the unhappy object of +suspicion is affected in such a manner as they consider as a proof of +guilt, his brains are knocked out upon the spot, or the body is so inflated +by the pernicious liquid that it bursts. In either of these catastrophes +all his family are sold for slaves. Some survive these diabolical +expedients of injustice, but the issue is uniformly slavery. When chiefs of +influence, guilty of atrocity and fraud, become objects of accusation, the +ingredient is of course qualified so as to remove its fatal tendency. Hence +justice seldom or ever in this country can punish powerful offenders, or +shield the innocence of the weak and unprotected. + +The iniquity and oppression sanctioned by these trials, is a dreadful +consequence of their avarice and inhumanity, for it is a fact that slaves +are created thereby, and human sacrifices offered to that spirit, which +they consider as their tutelar guardian: it is a subject which humanity +should seriously contemplate in the relinquishment of the slave trade, +whether, by the hasty adoption of that measure, before the intellectual +powers of the people are improved by civilization, this barbarous evil may +not be increased. When I closely enquired of the chiefs and natives +relative to these savage customs, they uniformly admitted the fact, "that +such live in their country," but with their characteristic dissimulation, +always denied having perpetrated these horrid acts, and shifted the +diabolical practice to some other nation or tribe, adding, "that only bad +men do that thing." + +Circumcision is practised among men, and a certain infliction on women, +not, however, from religious motives, but to guard against the consequences +of a disease not uncommon among them. The infliction upon women is the +result of infidelity, or a sacrifice of chastity to loose gratification. As +a preliminary, they retire to the _bunda_, or penitentiary, and are there +secluded from all sexual intercourse. When the season of penitence is over, +the operation is performed by the rude application of two stones, fashioned +and sharpened for the purpose; this obliterates all delinquincy, and on +their return to the world they are considered as restored to virgin purity. + +Wars in Africa originate from a variety of causes; in forming a correct +estimate of these, it is necessary to consider its localities and +situation. The inhabitants of this quarter of the earth, more particularly +those of the district now under consideration, compose numerous tribes and +nations, whose various views and interests excite jealousies and +contentions, which, aided by the passions peculiar to a barbarous people, +inevitably produce hostilities, and the effusion of human blood. + +What we have hitherto known of this country undoubtedly proves that wars +are carried on with the most sanguinary violence: their prisoners, by the +customs of the country, are consigned to massacre, slavery, and +sacrifice,[1] to gratify the avarice, vanity, and cruelty of their chiefs; +one of these passions must be predominant, and therefore the question is, +which of them is the least pregnant with evil? It cannot admit of a doubt +that those who are victims to avarice meet a more mild and humane fate, in +falling into the hands of Europeans, than the unhappy portion who are +sacrificed to vanity and cruelty; and it is equally true, that since the +interior nations have been enabled to exchange their slaves for European +merchandize, the number of victims to the latter passion has decreased. I +am far from being the advocate of slavery, but I am stating a fact, and +leave it to the reader to form his own conclusions. Where confirmed habits +and immemorial custom is to be supplanted, it is certainly requisite to be +well acquainted with the nature and character of the natives, which I have +not here introduced in an exaggerated shape, but infinitely within the +bounds of their savage ferocity. + +From these sources alone have arisen the expedients attendant upon the +slave trade; kidnapping and petty warfare form a very unimportant branch of +the barbarism which governs the inhabitants of Africa, and their enslaved +condition. + +Viewing this in the mass of moral evil which disgraces the character of +man, it will be found that it is even disproportioned to the estimated +population of Africa, which, from the best authority, has been stated at +upwards of 160 millions; and to apply the consideration to our own +situation, it will be found, that the number of executions and +transportations from the United Kingdom, in proportion to its population, +is infinitely greater than the number of slaves exported from the shores of +Africa, to its numerous inhabitants. Unquestionably the slave trade has +extricated a number of human beings from death, whom the horrible +sacrifices before described consigned to a barbarous exit, and has been a +cause, though an immoral one when applied to Britons, of extricating many +victims, who otherwise would have been annually sacrificed: humanity has, +therefore, some consolation in this polluted branch of our commerce, which +in its nature is barbarous and inhuman. + +Theories become extremely dangerous when they are impracticable, or +misapplied, and are pernicious in their consequences from the fallacious +measures they establish. In Africa crimes are punished by forfeitures, +slavery, or death; they are however rare; but accusations are often used to +procure slaves, whether for domestic purposes, sale, or sacrifice to their +customs. Death, as a punishment, is seldom the penalty of condemnation; and +if the culprit is rich, he can purchase his security. The alleged crime of +witchcraft, or magic, is a common means by which the chiefs increase their +accusations; and, consequently, the number of slaves. Adultery, and other +violations of social order, are punished by fine, but absolution is to be +obtained by money. + +The crimes by which the chiefs obtain the condemnation and disposal of +their subjects, are nearly all imaginary; for few exist which, under their +laws, are considered as acts of turpitude. The abuse of authority, the +action of violent passions, barbarous customs, ferocious habits, and +insatiate avarice among the chiefs, augment the number of captives and +victims, and the operation of these is much greater in the interior than in +the maritime districts; but this leads me to the next part of my subject, +namely, that a late legislative act will not, without farther interference, +improve the condition of the African. + +By the hasty conclusion of that measure, the unhappy African is now +abandoned to his fate; and we have surrendered him into the hands of other +nations, less acquainted with his character and situation. Former acts of +parliament had adopted wise and humane measures to ameliorate the condition +of slaves on board British vessls, so that their wants, and even their +comforts, were administered with a liberal hand; and much more might have +been done to augment these comforts. Instead of now being the object of +matured and wise regulations, the captive is exposed to the rapacity of our +enemies, who will derive great advantages from our abandonment of the +trade, and those who are incompetent, from the want of local knowledge, to +ease his shackles, and sooth him in his state of bondage. The magnitude and +nature of the disease, required a comprehensive system of policy to +eradicate it; and although in its nature and tendency of great moral +turpitude, alteratives were required calculated to its inveterate character +and established habits. The condition of the African, the probable +advantages he was to derive by our abandonment, and the circumstances of +commerce, were all considerations of important consequence. + +Even virtue itself must modify to its standard many considerations of moral +evil, more particularly in a political point of view, that it may the more +effectually establish its principles; nor can it, amidst the corruptions of +society, exercise at all times its functions with due effect; neither has +an instance occurred where its prudence and discretion was more imperiously +called upon, than in that now under consideration. It had immemorial custom +in Africa to contend with, inveterate barbarism, and savage ferocity. This +system had interwoven itself with our commercial existence so closely, as +to require the most sagacious policy to eradicate it; at the same time it +was the highest consideration for our magnanimity to interfere for that +being whose thraldom and calamitous state had so long contributed to our +wealth and commercial prosperity, before we abandoned him to contingencies. + +Enough may have been said in the foregoing pages, to prove that something +yet remains to be done to effect the manumission of the African, and +preserve the important branches of commerce, which necessity has allied +with the slave trade; and I entreat my readers to give this subject that +dispassionate consideration which its merits require, and beg to assure +them, that I obtrude my suggestions upon their notice with great submission +and diffidence, trusting that what may appear in my system deficient, +others more competent will embrace the subject, and excite the beneficence +of my country in behalf of the African, promote civilization and Christian +society in his country, display its arcana of wealth to the world, and open +a path to its commerce, free and unobscured. + +The colonization of the coast of Africa, in my estimation, is +impracticable, from its climate being uncongenial to the constitution of +Europeans, and from the system of slavery existing among its inhabitants, +without the employment of natives in their present condition. The requisite +authority to establish a system of labour, upon remunerative principles, +and with industrious vigour, cannot otherwise be supported; and a +misapprehension on this principle has been one of the great causes, as I +conceive, of the failure of the Sierra Leone Company in establishing their +agricultural objects. They attempted, in prosecution of their humane +project, an agricultural establishment on the Boolam shore, opposite to +their colony, where they had a choice of good lands: they proceeded upon +the principles of their declaration, "that the military, personal, and +commercial rights of blacks and whites shall be the same, and secured in +the same manner," and in conformity with the act of parliament which +incorporated them, more immediately that clause which relates to labour, +namely, "not to employ any person or persons in a state of slavery in the +service of the said Company;" but they have totally failed; and in one of +their reports, among other reasons, it is acknowledged, that for want of +authority over the free natives whom they employed, their agricultural +establishment on the Boolam shore was unsuccessful. Let not those worthy +and truly respectable characters, whose humanity has induced them to risque +an extensive property _unhappily expended without effect_, here consider +that I mean to militate against their views, but rather may they acquiesce +in the truth, and devise other expedients to promote their beneficent +objects, and to _assimilate the natives_ of the country with their views. +They have not only to lament a nonproductive profusion of their property, +but an _alienation of the natives_, occasioned by a misconception of their +character, by distracted councils, and the narrowed ideas of the agents +they employed to prosecute their humane endeavours, but also by a desolate +waste in their colony, without a regular feature of cultivation in its +vicinity. + +At Bance Island, where slavery and agriculture were united under one +superintendance in conformity with the established laws of the country, the +mechanic arts among the natives have arrived at a greater degree of +perfection than any situation I have visited upon the Windward Coast; and +had the intellectual powers of their minds been more amply considered and +cultivated, they would have exhibited an uncontrovertible example of the +capacity and intelligence of the African. Although, as I have previously +noticed, a superintendance directed only to the mechanical arts, applied to +the local necessities of the Island, has had the most visible effects, yet, +in proportion as their privileges have been extended, authority has become +more inefficient, and their labour less unproductive in a pecuniary point +of view, for want of a previous enlargement of their intellectual powers, +and a progressive operation of freedom commensurate thereto. + +I can bestow no panegyric adequate to the sense I entertain of that active +goodness which prompted the Directors of the Sierra Leone Company to the +undertaking I have alluded to; but with all due deference I conceive that +they have mistaken the practicable grounds, upon which the seeds of +civilization, and the principles of Christianity, can be effectively +displayed to the African. The Directors had to contend with a peculiar +co-mixture of passions, licentious habits, and hereditary vice; to +eradicate these, and to rescue the natives from their natural state, +alluring and progressive measures were necessary, founded upon an accurate +investigation of their characters and policy, and not by the fulminations +of intemperate zealots, and theoretical speculators. The beneficent views +of the Sierra Leone Company have been unaccountably perverted, and have +been the distorted instruments in prolonging, rather than extirpating, the +barbarism of the African: it is therefore a subject of great regret to the +benevolent supporters of this establishment, that an unprofitable +expenditure of their property is the only existing perpetuity of their +humane interference. Will it be found that the Company's agents have +introduced the arts of civilization among any tribe or nation in Africa, +that they have made any progress in agriculture, although possessing a very +extensive tract of fertile lands, or that they have converted them into any +of the regular features of cultivation? Have they explored or brought into +action any of the attainable and lucrative branches of natural commerce, +abounding in the region they inhabit, or do they employ a single ship in a +regular trade with the mother country? Will it be found that they have +unfolded the doctrines of Christianity, in their native purity and +simplicity, to the unenlightened African, or converted, by their preaching +and example, any tribe or nation among them?--The spacious waste is +destitute of the appearance of domestic industry, or respectable character; +it exhibits only a tissue of indolence, hypocritical grimace, petulant and +assuming manners, and all the consequences of idleness and corrupted +morals. To succeed in this beneficent undertaking, and to expunge the +inveterate nature of the African, his prejudices, and inherent customs, +progressive approaches upon his present condition are indispensibly +requisite, under the attractive influence of agriculture, manufactures, +commerce, and navigation. + +Accidental events, concurring with political causes, frequently render the +best concerted measures abortive, and retard their progress, but +unquestionably the above-mentioned are the means by which the African may +be manumitted, and his condition improved. The wisest laws operate but +slowly upon a rude and fierce people, therefore the measures of reformation +are not to be successfully performed by a coup-de-main, nor are the +hereditary customs of Africa to be erased by the inflammatory declamations +of enthusiasm, but by a liberal policy and the ascendency of the polished +arts of society. Commerce, the chief means of assembling, and agriculture +of assimilating, mankind, must first assume their fascinating and alluring +attitudes to the African upon his native plains. Too impetuous and indolent +to observe the forms, or enter into the requisite details of business, he +contemplates the effect, without investigating the cause; but, when he +discovers his own comparative wretchedness, he will be roused from his +innate indolence, his powers will be stimulated, and his emulation excited +to attain a more exalted state. + +Imperceptible and circumspect approach at innovation upon the laws, +customs, and country of Africa are indispensibly requisite, its chiefs and +head men must be cajoled, their jealousies dextrously allayed, and their +sordid avarice flattered by the prospect of superior gain. + +During the infancy of colonization, the employment of native labour must be +tolerated, as is evident by the unsuccessful attempts of the Sierra Leone +Company, and may appear from what I have already urged. Independent of +political considerations, of much weight, the uncongeniality of the climate +of Africa to the constitution of the European colonist opposes an +insurmountable barrier to the exercise of laborious avocations; therefore +it is necessary to employ natives, in conformity with the usage of the +country; and a recognition of property should exist in their persons; for +it is obvious, from experiment, that authority cannot otherwise be +established, or the necessary labour performed to produce an adequate +return. While this invidious exigency obstructs the immediate manumission +of the slave, it does not the less accelerate it, agreeable to the sound +and humane policy adapted to his condition; but, on the contrary, is +necessary to his complete emancipation; for he must first be taught the +nature of the blessings of freedom, his intellectual faculties must be +expanded, and the veil of barbarism gradually removed, to prepare him to +participate in its enjoyment. + +The system of colonization which I, with all submission, submit to the +legislature, and to my country, is this: + +1st. To employ natives in whom a recognition of property shall exist, as +unavoidable from the present condition of Africa. + +2d. To procure them from as wide an extent of the most powerful nations and +tribes upon the sea coast, as is practicable, and from the Slatees or slave +merchants from the interior countries. + +3d. That a requisite number of these should be fit for the present purposes +of labour, and for an immediate initiation into the mechanic arts, as +applicable to the local circumstances of the colony, and the useful +purposes of life. + +4th. That a proportionate number of males and females should form the +complement, from the age of 5 to 7 years, and be placed in a seminary of +instruction, under the inspection of the government of the colony, and +under tutors approved of in England. + +5th. That this establishment of a seminary of instruction in Africa, under +the administration of the colony, shall have for its bases the initiation +of these children, as calculated to their sexes, into the rudiments of +letters, religion, and science, and the progressive operation of education +adapted to the useful purposes of life. + +6th. That when thus prepared, the necessary avocations of domestic economy, +agriculture, and mechanics, employ the next period of their existence, +under the superintendence of the European colonist. + +7th. When arrived at the period of mature years, and thus instructed, to +become the object of legislative enquiry and investigation as to their +attainments, character, fidelity, and mental improvement. + +8th. That such as produce clear testimonials of capacity, knowledge, and +acquirement, become immediately objects of manumission. + +9th. That all proceedings in this process of education and emancipation, +become matters of record in the colony, subject to such control and +investigation as his Majesty's Government may, in its wisdom, appoint, from +time to time, to guard against the corruption and prejudices of the +legislative authority of the colony. + +10th. That thus endowed, they are to be dismissed to their respective +countries and nations, employed as agents in various capacities of +civilized pursuit, and to promote the commercial and agricultural views of +the colony, and disseminate their allurements among their tribe, which, +under the direction of the unerring dispensations of divine providence, +might, in process of time, diffuse civilization and Christianity throughout +the utmost region of Africa, its inhabitants become members of civilized +and Christian society, and their country, in process of time, be extricated +from its barbarism. + +It is for the legislature to devise a system adapted to the colonies, +calculated to their local situations, and to remove the invidious +distinction now subsisting between the African there, and in his native +country; by these means the entire Negro race may participate in the +blessings of civilization and revealed religion, in every quarter where our +extensive dominion and influence exist. + +By adopting the _first proposition_, a sufficient authority would be +maintained to enforce the labour necessary to produce profit, and competent +to excite emulation, which is a powerful passion in the character of the +African; for in every effort he discovers a strong spirit of competition. + +Through the medium of the 2d proposition, the natives of an extentive +district would be collected under the instruction of the European colonist, +and, in process of time, would become the happy instruments of initiating +their, tribe or nation into the arts of civilization, and in promoting the +commercial interests of the colony, which may eventually be diffused +throughout Africa. + +By the 3d expedient, an adequate portion of effective labourers would be +obtained to commence vigorous operations. + +In consequence of the 4th, 5th, and 6th, a portion of children of both +sexes would be procured at a moderate rate, in their unadulterated +condition, who would be susceptible of any impressions, free from the +control of their parents, and the contamination of their example, into +whose tender minds might be instilled the principles of moral virtue, +religious knowledge, and the civil arts of life. + +Through the adoption of the 7th and 8th, the objects of humanity might be +realized, and slavery, with the slave trade, make a natural exit from the +shores and country of Africa. + +By the 9th, the corrupted and interested endeavours of the colonists to +retard the work of emancipation would be controlled; and, by the patronage +of Government, pecuniary resource and support be obtained, in aid of +individual and corporate endeavours, the requisite population from the +parent state acquired, and the indispensible authority established to +secure success to any further attempts at colonization upon the coast of +Africa. + +And through the 10th expedient, an extended population would enjoy the +advantages of instruction and example, and our ascendency and commerce be +increased by a rapid process, which would predispose the natives to throw +open the avenues of their country to our enterprize and research. + +Thus may the long seclusion of the African from the light of truth and +revealed religion be annihilated, his inveterate jealousies allayed, his +nature regenerated, and his barbarism fall before the emanations of +enlightened existence. In the interim, an unobscured path to the interior +of his country will be opened, and our commerce therewith flow through a +less polluted channel; while the Negro, now the victim of barbarism in his +native land, may be extricated from his thraldom, and received into the +circle of civilized life, which he has hitherto been excluded from, and to +which providence, without doubt, in its mysterious and incomprehensible +administration of human affairs, has designed him to arrive at. + +[Footnote 1: A portion of them being destined to domestic slavery, as +victims to revenge, and as sacrifices to their barbarous customs.] + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + + + + +_What the Author conceives should be the System of Establishment to make +effectual the Operations from Cape Verde to Cape Palmas.--Reasons for +subjecting the Whole to one Superior and controlling Administration.--The +Situations, in his Estimation, where principal Depots may be established, +and auxiliary Factories placed, &c. &c._ + +What I have already said respecting the coast from Cape Verde to Cape +Palmas, may be sufficient to convey a tolerably just and general idea of +the religion, customs, and character of the inhabitants, the commercial +resources with which it abounds, and the system to be pursued to unite +commerce with the claims of humanity in one harmonious compact. + +I am persuaded there is no situation on the Windward Coast of Africa more +calculated, or more advantageously situated, than the river of Sierra Leone +to influence and command an enlarged portion of the continent of Africa. + +This part of Africa, as ascertained by Mr. Park, communicates, by its +rivers to the Niger, and introduces us to the interior of this great +continent; and, from other sources of information, Foolahs, Mandingos, &c. +I am enabled to confirm the statement given in one of the reports of the +Sierra Leone Company, that from _Teembo_, about 270 miles interior to the +entrance of the Rio Noonez, and the capital of the Foolah king, a path of +communication exists through the kingdoms of Bellia, Bourea, Munda, Segoo +(where there are too strong grounds to believe that the enterprising spirit +of Mr. Park ceased its researches in this world), Soofundoo to Genah, and +from thence to Tombuctoo, described as extremely rich and populous. The +distance from Teembo to Tombuctoo the natives estimate at about four moons' +journey, which at 20 miles per day, calculating 30 days to each moon, is +equal to 2,400 miles. This distance in a country like Africa, obscured by +every impediment which forests, desarts, and intense climate can oppose to +the traveller, is immense; and when it is considered that in addition to +these, he has to contend with the barbarism of the inhabitants, it is a +subject for serious deliberation, before the investigation of its natural +history and commercial resources is undertaken. But it also displays an +animating field of enterprise to obtain a free intercourse with this +unbounded space, and if, at a future day, we should traverse it with +freedom and safety, the whole of Africa might thereby be enlightened, and +its mysteries developed to the civilized world. + +I have therefore conceived the expediency of submitting all the enterprises +and operations of the United Kingdom to the influence of a supreme +direction and government in the river of Sierra Leone. No doubt many +contradictory opinions may prevail upon this subject, and upon the outline +I have previously submitted on the most eligible plan of introducing +civilization into Africa; but the detail of all my motives and reasons +would occupy too large a space; I shall therefore proceed to instance some +local circumstances and political reasons why I make the proposition. + +From what I have said respecting the path which Smart, of the Rochell +branch of the river Sierra Leone, has now under his authority, and can open +and shut at pleasure, communicating with the extensive country of the +Foolahs, whose king (as the Sierra Leone agents are well aware of, but who +was strangely and unaccountably neglected by them) is well disposed to aid, +by prudent application, all advances towards the civilization of his +country, it is evident that an immense commerce, extending northward to +Cape Verde, and southward to Cape Palmas, on the coasts, and from the +interior countries, might be maintained. + +By light vessels and schooners, drawing from 6 to 8 feet water, a continued +activity might be kept up in the maritime situations and rivers, and a +correspondence by land might be conducted by post natives, who travel from +20 to 30 miles per day, to all parts of the interior countries. + +From the Island of Goree a correspondence with the river Gambia, and a +watchful vigilance over the settlement of the French in the Senegal would +be maintained both by land and sea, which, with a well chosen position, +central from Cape Sierra Leone, to Cape Palmas, would combine a regular +system of operation, concentrating in the river Sierra Leone. In addition +to these three principal depots, it would be requisite to establish +factories, and places of defence to the northward, on the rivers Scarcies +and Kissey, at the Isles de Loss, the rivers Dembia, Rio Pongo, Rio Grande, +Rio Noonez, and Gambia; and to leeward, on the rivers Sherbro, Galhinas, +Cape Mount, Junk river, John's river, Bassau, &c. or in other commanding +positions towards Cape Palmas. The expense of these auxiliary +establishments and forts would be inconsiderable, compared with the objects +they would attain, the chief requisite being regular and well supplied +assortments of goods, and a wise system of organization adapted to +circumstances. + +The navigation of these rivers, and habits of conciliation and friendship +with the chiefs resident upon them, and towards the interior, it may here +be perceived, are the only practicable measures, under the auspicious +control of Government, to retain our commerce with Africa, to civilize its +inhabitants, and explore its hidden wealth; and are the most favourable, +also, towards our operations in the countries on this continent; while the +various natives attached to this pursuit, would aid, by wise management, in +influencing the inhabitants, where our researches and pursuits might carry +us, and eventually conduct us to the centre of Africa, from thence to the +eastern shores of the Mediterranean, and the banks of the Nile. I trust it +will here also appear that the means of acting, and the important +advantages to be derived therefrom, are neither illusive nor impracticable. + +It is to be lamented, that, in undertakings of this kind, men of limited +genius, of no experience in business, and incapable of acting with +unanimity, have been too frequently employed; who are governed more by +caprice than principle, and are consequently seldom able to reduce their +ideas into practice, and allow their passions to predominate over the +maxims of duty. Delicacy in managing the humours and interests of men is +the art requisite to successful operation. + +May it be remembered, that if civilization and our ascendency prevail in +Africa, and if the first essays we make to extend our relations with that +country are successful, we attach to the civilized world one-fourth of the +habitable globe, and its infinite resources. It therefore becomes a subject +of great magnitude, to commence and form a system of operation, to collect +the means of this immense extent, and the propriety of subjecting the whole +to a similarity of views, and co-operation under one controlling +administration. + +The precipitate abolition of the slave trade will reduce our affairs in +Africa, to a contracted and unproductive compass, in its present condition; +therefore if we attach any consequence to this quarter of the globe, it +will be expedient to endeavour to discover new scources [**Note: sources] +of commercial wealth and industry. + +Coffee, cotton, the sugar cane, cacao, indigo, rice, tobacco, aromatic +plants and trees, &c. first offer themselves to, our attention in wild +exuberance. And these, in my humble opinion, are the only rational means to +bring Africa into a state of civilization, and to abolish slavery. + +I recommend one administration under the patronage of Government, in the +Sierra Leone river, to guard against a want of unity in the number of petty +establishments that may otherwise exist on the coast, which from jealousies +and interests varying in different directions, produce operations of a +contradictory nature, and the first necessary step, is to be well +acquainted with the character and dispositions, of the natives, and the +localities of the maritime situations; for without combined enterprises, I +venture to predict we are now excluded from the commerce of Africa. + +I trust that my system will be examined in all its points, with +dispassionate impartiality before it is rejected; and if others more +competent to the task, devise more eligible means to promote the views of +humanity and commerce, I shall feel happy to have agitated the subject, and +rejoice at every means, to rescue so important a matter to the interests of +mankind. + +The commandant of Goree, I would propose as second in command, with +delegated powers to control all the operations in the countries bordering +on the Senegal, and the river Gambia; and an annual inspection directed by +him, throughout this district. The intermediate countries from the Rio +Noonez to Cape Mount would come immediately under the examination of the +central and administrative government of Sierra Leone, and the third +division under the authority of another command at a position chosen +between Cape Mount, and Cape Palmas. + +The military protection of the establishments, as I have here recommended, +would neither require great exertions, or numbers. Goree certainly claims +peculiar attention. Its fortifications should be repaired, and the guns +rendered more complete, and tanks for water should be in a perfect state to +guard against the want of this necessary article from the main land, which, +as before noticed, is liable to be cut off at any period by the enemy. The +convenience, airy and healthy construction of the barracks and hospitals, +claim the most minute attention and care. Under skilful superintendance in +these important departments, the health of the troops might be preserved, +and objects of defence realized with a very inconsiderable military +establishment. But as government must be well informed by its officers, +both military and naval in these points, it would be indecorous in me to +enlarge on the subject. Lieut. Colonel Lloyd, from his long residence, and +intimacy with a great portion of the Windward Coast, possesses ample +information. And the naval officers, who from time to time have visited it, +have, no doubt, furnished every document necessary to complete an effective +naval protection. A regular system of defence, adapted to the jurisdiction +of the Sierra Leone, and delegated establishment between Cape Mount and +Cape Palmas, are also obviously requisite. The establishments that would be +eligible for the purposes of defence, are confined to the three foregoing +principal positions, and they have little to perform that is either +difficult or embarrassing. It may not, however, be considered as going +beyond the bounds of propriety to hint, that a great portion of the +soldiers charged with defence, should be able engineers and gunners, and a +few cavalry might be occasionally found useful. To complete the entire +plan, and exclude our enemies from every point, from Cape Blanco to Cape +Palmas, the possession of the French establishment at the Isle of Louis in +the Senegal, is an abject of serious contemplation, and no doubt might be +attained with great facility by even a small force. The unhealthy +consequences to a military force attached to this place might be greatly +removed by superior convenience in the hospitals, barracks, and other +departments of residence; and in a commercial point of view, its advantages +are too well ascertained for me to obtrude any observations. + +The bricks necessary for building may be procured in the country, lime from +oyster shells, &c. wood and other materials at a very inconsiderable +expense; and as the usual mode of payment, is in bars of goods, instead of +money, the nominal amount would thereby be greatly lessened. + + + +CHAPTER IX. + + + + +_The Author embarks in the Ship Minerva.--Proceeds to the Rio +Pongo.--Disquisitions thereon.--Further Observations on the Inhabitants, +obtained from Natives of various Nations met with there.--The Isles de +Loss--Returns to Sierra Leone, &c._ + + +Upon the 4th of June, 1806, I embarked at Bance Island, on board the ship +Minerva of Liverpool, bound upon a trading voyage to the Rio Pongo, and +other rivers to the northward, and on Thursday the 12th came to an anchor +at the upper forks, in the Rio Pongo, being the point at which the branches +of the _Bungra, Charleston, Constintia,_ &c. empty themselves; higher up +the river are the _Sanga_ and _Bashia_ branches, occupied by a chain of +factories, and inhabited by various nations and tribes. The principal +factories for trade are on the Constintia, about 40 miles up the river, Mr. +Cummings's factory, at Ventura; Mr. John Irvin's, at Kessey; Mr. Benjamin +Curtis's, at Boston; Mr. Frasier's, at Bangra; Mr. Sammo's, at Charleston; +Mr. David Lawrence's, at Gambia; Mr. Daniel Botefeur's, at Mary Hill; Mr. +Ormond's, Mr. Tillinghurst's, Mr. Gray's, in the Bashia branch; with +various others of inferior consideration. + +During my stay on this river, I visited the whole of these branches, and in +addition to personal investigation, I obtained much information from the +various conductors of these factories, and had a variety of opportunities +of communicating with many of the natives from the interior countries, who +are drawn hither by the extensive commerce of the Rio Pongo. In my +excursions on this river, I was generally accompanied by Captain William +Browne, of Liverpool, who was part owner of the Minerva, and had the sole +management of the concerns of her voyage; and I am happy to give him this +public testimony of the many obligations he conferred upon me, while on +this part of the coast, which unceasingly continued until my arrival in +England, by the way of the West Indies. + +The countries bounded by the Rio Pongo and the Gambia, are inhabited by the +Nilloes and various tribes, who carry on a considerable trade with that +river, the Rio Noonez, and Rio Grande, and inland to the two latter, is the +powerful nation of the Foolahs, possessing an extensive country, about 200 +miles in breadth from north to south, and 400 miles from east to west. +Teembo, the capital of the Foolah king, is about 270 miles inland from the +entrance of the Rio Noonez. The paths for trade and communication with the +interior, from this position, are at the king's pleasure, and he opens and +shuts them by his mandate. The Foolahs are tall, well-limbed, robust and +courageous, grave in their deportment, are well acquainted with commerce, +and travel over an astonishing space of the country. Their religion is a +mixture of Mahomedanism, idolatry, and fetishism. One of their tenets, +which inculcates the destruction of those they term infidels, is peculiarly +friendly to slavery, and as the greater part of their neighbouring tribes +are of that description, they are continually practising every violence, +and, are frequently engaged in wars. When I suggested to a chief of very +considerable intelligence, and one of the Foolah king's head men, whom I +met in the Rio Pongo, the enormity of their injustice to the surrounding +tribes, and how displeasing it was to the God they prayed to, his reply +was, "True, this be bad fashion to Foolah, or Mandingo man, but these +people we make war against never pray to God, nor do we make war with those +who give God Almighty service." While this barbarism exists, and the slave +trade is continued, humanity will have to, bewail the miserable condition +of the African slave. For this, and various other reasons that might be +urged, and considering the position and extensive influence of the Foolah +nation, their king claims a high consideration in a combined scheme of +establishment upon the coast. + +So impressed was this chief, of the beneficial advantages to be derived +from agriculture, that he tendered land, cattle, men, &c. to the agents of +the Sierra Leone Company, only requesting from them, in return, a delegated +superintendance; but, strange to tell, this disposition was not cultivated +nor improved; nor was the further offer of the king of Laby, and his high +priest, to place their sons under the protection of the Company, to be sent +to England and educated. A more important step could not have been taken to +attain the object of the Directors, than this of attaching the Foolah +nation to their interest. + +The women of this nation are handsome, and of a sprightly temper, and their +countenances are more regular than those of the common Negroes; the hair in +both men and women is much longer, and not so woolly, but they have a most +disgusting custom of forming it into ringlets, bedaubed with oil and +grease, which gives them a very barbarous appearance. The Foolah tongue, is +different from that of the surrounding nations, and its accent is more +harmonious. + +To the southward of the Rio Pongo, to Sierra Leone, lie the countries of +the Bagoes, Soosees, Mandingos, Timminees, and Boolams, all idolaters +except the Mandingos, who, like the Foolahs, associate in their religion a +mixture of fetishism and Mahomedanism. The Timminees are a more harmless +race of men than any of the other _infidel_ nations, and their dispositions +are more calculated to industrious avocations than their neighbours. + +I have already noticed the Mandingos, but, as I consider this nation and +the Foolahs of the first consequence, from their power and influence over +the other nations of this part of the coast, I shall add a few more +observations upon them. + +From what I have before stated, it will appear that the Mandingos are a +numerous people in Africa, gaining a daily influence and authority in the +district now under consideration. Besides the tribes of this people who +inhabit the countries between the Soosees and Timminees, there are various +others established in the country of Bambouk, and on the borders of the +Gambia, but the great body occupy an extensive territory above the sources +of that river. + +The empire of the Mandingos is not, however, so considerable as that of the +Foolahs, but from their increasing influence over the western countries, +from their docile and cunning dispositions, their knowledge in merchandize, +and acquirements in book-knowledge, their power must, in process of time, +be greatly increased; and it will be of the utmost moment to civilize them, +in order to acquire an influence over the more barbarous states. + +Notwithstanding the cunning and dissimulation which characterizes these +people, they are generous, open, and hospitable, and their women are +aimiable and engaging: they are more zealous Mahomedans than the Foolahs; +their colour has a mixture of yellow, but their features are more regular +than the other nations of Africa which I have seen. The Foolahs, the +Mandingos, and the Joliffs, bordering on the Senegal, are the most handsome +Negroes on this part of Africa; the hair of the latter, however, is more +crisped and woolly, their nose is round, and their lips are thick; this +nation, in particular, is blacker than those approximating towards the +line; nor are the Negroes in the Krew coast, and towards Palmas, so black +as the nation I now speak of; which may tend to prove, that the colour of +the Africans does not arise from a vertical sun, but from other physical +causes yet unknown. + +There is a characteristic feature between the Mahomedan nations of Africa, +particularly those from the shores of the Mediterranean (whom I have seen +in my travels in that quarter) which, with their almost universal +profession of the Mahomedan religion, sanctions the idea, that this part of +the coast has been peopled from the eastern parts of the continent; but the +visible difference in religion, complexion, and feature, of the nations +towards Cape Palmas, give rise to other conjectures. An obvious difference +may be observed among these numerous nations; their language and their +customs are various, and are frequently without affinity or relation. From +the shores of the Mediterranean to this part of Africa, the majority of the +nations are Mahomedans, but towards Cape Palmas they are gross idolaters, +with a mixture Mahomedanism and superstition; many of them erect temples, +and dedicate groves to the devil. I have seen several of these, which +exhibit no outward sign or object of worship, but consist of stumps of +trees, in a circular form, covered with leaves, or a thatched roof, in the +centre of which stands a square altar of mud, without any image of +adoration. The reason assigned by them for their omission in this +instance, is, "that they never look the Devil or evil spirit, therefore +they do not know how to make any thing like him." To the good spirit they +neither make offering nor sacrifice, considering it as unnecessary to +obtain his favours, from his disposition to do nothing but good, which of +course he will administer to them. + +From every thing that I have observed, I conceive that idolatry, and fetish +worship, is the predominant religion of Africa, and that Mahomedanism has +been propagated by the Moore and Arab's. It may not here be unopportune to +introduce the Mandingo man's prayer, which I obtained from a very +intelligent chief of that nation: viz. + + +_Mandingo Arabic_. + +Subbohanalahe Rabila'ademy +abodehé. Subbohanala rabila +Allah. Subbohana arabe. Inye +allamante, nafuse wa amutate +sue wakefurella. Teyatelillahé +tebates allivatuelub lahey. +Sillamaleko ayo hanabehé, obara +katolahe Sullamalina Ihannabé, +lebadelahe Saliheneé" + +The address to Mahomet follows, +viz. + +Sahadala elahe idillaha +Mahomedo, arasoolo lahi +man Mahomedo aboodaho. + +_In their idiom of English._ + +God lives and, is not dust. +God be master of all and is +above his slaves. God knows +his slave, and is not made of +earth; but above all. (Before +the next sentence, Subbohana +arabe, &c. he bows twice.) + +Suppose I die, I can look you +to-morrow, and thank you, and +be out of trouble, and free from +the Devil. + +(Teyatelillahé, &c. accompanied +by a motion of the fingers) + +I beg in my prayers again, +God, I may die to day, I look to +thank you again to-morrow, +my people and family may +then get into trouble, and I +then pray to you. + +To Mahomet. + +Mahomet be man, born of +woman, the prophet of God, +and speak to him for man. + + +In this system of prayer there is a mixture of fetishism, Mahomedanism, and +a strong analogy to the Christian system; and it is no inconsiderable +argument in favour of the mediation of the Saviour, that in the worship of +heathen nations a mediator is uniformly associated with the object of +adoration. Virgil in his Aeneid, and other classic writers, illustrate a +belief of the ancient heathens in the omniscience of the deity, and they +clearly elucidate the importance they attached the mediatorial efficacy of +offerings and sacrifice. + +The form of worship adapted to the foregoing prayer, is to squat down upon +the ground, placing the palm of their hands flat thereon twice, touching +the earth the same number of times with their foreheads; then rubbing their +arms from the wrist to the elbow, with that which is contracted by this +operation, when the hands are applied to the face, and the forefingers put +into the ears. + +I have dwelt more minutely upon this people and their present condition +compared with the Foolahs, because I consider these nations have it much in +their power to shut and open the paths of intercourse with the interior +countries, therefore they become of importance, in the contemplation of any +pursuits upon this district of Africa. + +The Mandingoes inhabiting Galam, and the countries interior to the Gambia, +carry on the principal trade with those of Bambouk, &c. where gold is +procured. This precious metal is obtained from the surface of the earth, +and from the banks of the falls of the rivers in the rainy season; it is +first washed in a calabash; and when the water is poured off, the dust, and +sometimes large grains remain. The natives have no idea of mining; but it +appears from hence, that mines of this metal must exist, which are +concealed thro' the want of the arts of civilized life. The Mandingoes +speak of these countries with a great air of mystery, and are extremely +jealous, lest Europeans should obtain any information relative to them: as +they carry on almost exclusively, this branch of commerce. + +When I was in the Bashia branch of the Rio Pongo, a meteor of an +extraordinary kind appeared for two successive nights, directing its course +from NE. to SW. which put the natives in a most dreadful state of +consternation; the women fell into loud lamentations, the men beat their +drums, and sent forth the most horrid yells; imagining, that this barbarous +uproar would drive away the object of their fears. In eclipses of the sun +and moon, they repeat their prayers and sacrifices, with the same clamour, +under the notion that it will frighten away the monster which they suppose +to obscure these planets from their view. These superstitious notions have +the most powerful influence over the Negro's mind, and it is impossible to +dissuade or reason him out of them. + +From all I have stated, the great importance of these countries, to open an +intercourse with the interior of Africa, must appear. On the borders of the +Rio Pongo, and other rivers, excellent lands, forming hill, and dale, are +every where to be found, and well adapted to agricultural experiments. With +the _consent of the chiefs_, these might be obtained at a small expense, +and many of them with whom I have communicated, would gladly embrace a wise +interference; but they all complain, "white man not know their fashion," +intimating in very forcible language, that every caution should be used, at +innovation upon their laws, customs, and manners. Let example first excite +their admiration, and their barbarism will bow before the arts of +civilization, and slavery be gradually abolished. + +Before I conclude this chapter, I shall make some observations upon the +temperature of the western countries of Africa, situated between Cape Verde +and Cape Palmas, mention the principal diseases, and those which Europeans +are most exposed to on their first arrival in these countries, and give +general precautions against the dangers of the climate, &c. + +The inexhaustible fecundity of Africa holds out to Europeans strong +excitements to enterprise and research; but in the pursuit, the diseases +which prevail in this country should be well understood; and it would be +highly expedient, in any plans of colonization, to attach a medical staff, +as the natives have no idea of the art of surgery, except what arises from +the knowledge they have of the properties of herbs, and the superstitions +attached to their fetishism. In annexing this extraordinary country to the +civilized world, and exploring its stores of wealth, a burning climate, and +the diseases peculiar thereto, unite with the barbarism of its inhabitants +in opposition to the European; but by a strict observance of necessary +rules, and avoiding all kinds of excess, the formidable influence of the +sun may be resisted, and the pernicious effects of exhalations, which arise +from a humid, marshy, and woody country, may in a great degree be obviated; +and I am sorry to say, that for want of proper precaution and through +ignorance, fatal consequences more frequently occur, than from the +unhealthiness of the climate. + +The temperature from Cape Verde to Cape Palmas is extremely various from +the vertical rays of the sun, the nature of the soil, and the face of the +country. + +In the months from November to March, by Fahrenheit's thermometer, it has +been from 70° in the morning, to 90° at noon, in the shade; and nearly the +same variation has been observed at the river of Sierra Leone; and in some +places in the Foolah country it has been from 50° to 90° + +From July to October, the mean temperature in the river Gambia, by +Fahrenheit, has been from 90° in the morning to 100° at noon in the shade, +and during the same months at Sierra Leone from about 92° to 106°; but a +variety of local circumstances may give a greater or less degree of heat: +this however may serve to give a general idea of the temperature of these +countries. The island of Goree, for example, the island of Bance, and the +bay of Sierra Leone, are more healthy, enjoying the cooling sea breezes, +more than situations in the rivers more interior. The banks of all the +rivers in Africa, which I have visited, are enclosed by impenetrable +forests, marshes, and the closely combined mangrove tree, and it is but +seldom that the land forms an uneven dry surface on their borders. +Instances however in the Sierra Leone, Rio Pongo, &c. occasionally occur, +when the most picturesque scenery adorns the river. + +From May to August, hurricanes or _tornados_, before described, prevail +upon the Windward Coast, and this phenomenon is to be met with from Cape +Verde to Cape Palmas. The months from November to March are remarkable for +the prevalence of east and north-east winds. When these winds, which are +called _harmatans_, set in, they are accompanied with a heavy atmosphere, +and are of a dry and destructive nature. Every description of vegetation is +blasted by their influence, and every object, animate and inanimate, feels +their powerful effects; the skin is parched and dried, and every feature is +shriveled and contracted. The most compact cabinet work will give way, the +seams of flooring open, and the planks even bend. Furniture of every sort +is distorted; in short, nothing escapes their dreadful power. The nights at +this period are cool and refreshing. + +The months of July, August, September, and October are rainy, from the +equator to about the 20th degree of north latitude. Towards the equinoxial +they begin earlier, and make their progress to windward, but the difference +throughout the whole of the north tropic fluctuates little more or less +than 15 or 20 days. When the rains commence, the earth, before parched up +and consolidated into an impenetrable crust, by the powerful influence of +the sun and a long period of drought, is immediately covered with vermin +and reptiles of all sorts, creating a moving map of putrefaction. The +natives ascribe to these many of their diseases; but a further cause may be +added, namely, the great change from heat to cold, and the variations at +this season. + +The powerful influence of the sun, which at this period is almost vertical, +quickly dissipates the clouds which obscure the sky, and produces an almost +insupportable effect; but new clouds soon condense, and intercept the solar +rays; a mitigating heat follows; the pores are compressed, and prespiration +ceases. Variations succeeding so rapidly, are attended with the most +serious effects, and the most fatal consequences. And, lastly, the noxious +exhalations arising from the inaccessible forests and marshy swamps which +abound in Africa, and from numerous animal and vegetable remains of the dry +season, which cover the soil every where, are productive of putrid +effluvia. These rains, or rather periodical torrents of water, which +annually visit the tropics, invariably continue for about four months of +the year, and during the other eight it rarely happens that one single drop +falls; in some instances, however, periodical showers have happened in the +dry season, but the effects of these are scarcely perceptible on +vegetation; the consequence is, that the surface of the earth forms an +impervious stratum or crust, which shuts up all exhalation. + +When the rains cease, and the heat of the sun absorbs the evaporations from +the earth, which have been so long concealed during the dry season, a most +offensive and disgusting effluvia is produced, which then fastens upon the +human system, and begets diseases that in a short time shew their effects +with dreadful violence; and no period is more to be guarded against than +when the rains cease, for the intense heat completely impregnates the +atmosphere with animalculae and corrupted matter. + +The principal complaints which attack Europeans are, malignant nervous +fevers, which prevail throughout the rainy season, but they are expelled by +the winds which blow in the month of December; from hence these _harmatans_ +are considered healthy, but I have heard various opinions among medical men +on this subject. Dr. Ballard (now no more), whose long residence at Bance +Island, and in Africa, and whose intimate acquaintance with the diseases of +these climates, peculiarly qualified him to decide upon the fact, was of +opinion, most decidedly, that the _harmatan_ season was not the most +healthy. + +When this malignant fever takes place in all its virulence, its +consequences are the most disastrous; the symptoms are violent and without +gradation, and the blood is heated to an increased degree beyond what is +experienced in Europe; the ninth day is generally decisive, and this is a +crisis that requires the most vigilant attention and care over the patient. +I speak this from personal experience. In consequence of the fatigues I +underwent in the Rio Pongo, and other rivers, and having been for several +days and nights exposed to an open sea, and to torrents of rain upon land, +I was seized with this dreadful disorder, although I had enjoyed an +uninterrupted state of good health before, and on my arrival at the colony +of Sierra Leone was unable to support myself on shore; and had it not been +for the kind attention and skilful prescriptions of Dr. Robson of that +colony, with the friendly offices of Captain Brown, I should, in all +probability, at this stage have finished my travels and existence together. +Dysenteries frequently follow this fever, which are of a very fatal +tendency, and sometimes the flux is unattended by fever. This disease is +not uncommon in persons otherwise healthy, but it is productive of great +debility, which requires a careful regimen; if it continues to a protracted +period, its consequences are often fatal. In my own case, a dysentery +followed the fever, and reduced me to a mere skeleton. The dry belly-ache +is another dangerous disease, accompanied by general languor, a decrease of +appetite, a viscous expectoration, and fixed pain in the stomach. Opium is +considered an efficacious medicine in this disease, and is administered +with great perseverance, accompanied by frequent fomentations. An infusion +of ginger drank in the morning has frequently good effects. Flannel assists +excretion, and is found beneficial. _Tetanos_ is also another disease +peculiar to Africa, and is a kind of spasm and convulsive contraction, for +which opium is the usual remedy. + +The Guinea worm is another disease among the natives, which is productive +of tumours upon the body and limbs, productive of great pain, and is a +contagious disease. This, however, is a subject without my province, and +which has been ably treated upon by gentlemen, whose profession fully +qualified them for the investigation. In addition to the many valuable +treatises upon tropical diseases, from high authority, I would recommend +Dr. Winterbottom's publication to the reader, as, embracing highly +important local information upon the diseases of the Windward Coast. + +I have only touched on those which have more immediately come within my +personal observation. Too much care cannot be taken by Europeans in +drinking, and even washing in the waters of Africa, which should always +undergo a filtering preparation, and I am persuaded that great +circumspection should be used in this respect: these and other precautions, +with a generous, but regular system of living, would no doubt tend to +diminish the fatal tendency of diseases in Africa. + +Without doubt, a series of professional observations and enquiry into the +temperature and periodical variations of the climate of Africa, and its +diseases, would be attended with the most important advantages to the +science of physic, and might ultimately prove of incalculable consequence +in preserving the valuable lives of our brave soldiers and sailors, exposed +to all the ravages of tropical climates. Advantages that are well worth the +attention of government, which would train up a body of physicians and +surgeons, initiated into the mysteries of the diseases peculiar to those +countries, which might tend to preserve a large portion of human beings of +the utmost consequence and importance to the state; and it might form a +part in the organization of colonial establishments, to attach thereto an +institution of this nature. + + + +CHAPTER X. + + + + +_The Author visits the Isles de Loss.--Remarks on those Islands.--Touches +at the River Scarcies.--Arrives at the Colony of Sierra Leone.--Embarks for +the West Indies--Lands at the Colony of Demerory.--Some Observations on the +Productions of that Colony, Berbice, and Essequibo, and on the Importance +of Dutch Guiana to the United Kingdom, in a political and commercial View._ + + +On the 4th of July, I rejoined the Minerva at the Palm Trees, and on the +5th we weighed and passed the bar of the Rio Pongo, steering our course for +the Isles de Loss; and on the 6th came to an anchor off Factory Island. + +The Isles de Loss, in the Portuguese language meaning Islands of Idols, are +so called from the idolatrous customs of the natives, and are seven in +number; Tammara, Crawford's, Factory, Temba, White's, Goat, and Kid +islands. Tammara is the largest, but very difficult of approach, and has +few inhabitants; Crawford's has two factories for trade, belonging to +gentlemen formerly in the service of the Sierra Leone Company; and Factory +Island has an American establishment, conducted by a Mr. Fisk, These are +the principal (the others being little more than barren rocks), and they +abound in vegetation and natural productions. Squilly, or the sea onion, to +which great medicinal qualities are ascribed, grows in great abundance in +these islands, and might be procured in almost any quantity. Dr. Lewis, in +the _Materia Medica_, or _Edinburgh Dispensary_, describes the peculiar +qualities of this root. + +The positions of these islands are excellent for trade, but exposed to the +predatory excursions of the enemy, who have frequently pillaged the +factories established in Crawford's Island. + +On the 9th we again got under weigh, steering our course for the entrance +into the river Scarcies. The night was attended by tremendous peals of +thunder, lightning, and torrents of rain: we continued off and on until the +12th, when we arrived outside Mattacont Island, bearing E. by S. and the +Isles de Loss in sight. At 2 P.M. I accompanied Captain Brown, with five +hands, in the pinnace, with the intention of running into the Scarcies +river. We sailed with a fresh breeze in expectation of gaining the entrance +by the approach of night; but we were obliged to anchor in the open sea, +amidst the most awful peals of thunder, while the whole heaven displayed +nothing but vivid flashes of lightning. Amidst this tremendous scene, +exposed to the mercy of the waves, with the prospect of being deluged by +rain, we secured our little bark and ourselves, in the best manner our +circumstances would admit, and committed ourselves to the all protecting +care and disposal of Providence. The mantle of night was soon spread around +us, the scene was grand and solemn, and we were at length hushed to rest by +the jar of elements, and the murmurs of the ocean. We awoke to contemplate +an azure sky, and the all-bountiful mercy of the Creator, in preserving us +from such imminent danger, to pursue our destination through breakers, +shoals, and sands. + +At day-light, with a breeze from the land, we weighed, and steered our +course S.S.E. for the Scarcies bar, but the wind shifting to the S.E. and +the ebb tide running strong, we were nearly driven out of sight of land; we +were therefore obliged again to anchor, and wait the change of tide. +Trusting to a sea breeze that had just set in, it being slack water, we +again weighed: the serenity of the weather did not long continue, but soon +increased to a brisk gale, accompanied by thunder, lightning and rain; we +were driven with great impetuosity through the narrow channel between the +bar and the shore, and from the shallowness of the water, the rollers +continually broke over our heads, threatening our destruction every moment. +Providentially we surmounted these dangers, and at 5 P.M. entered the +river, which is interspersed with islands and picturesque objects, that +could not be viewed without interest. I have been thus minute in describing +this excursive voyage, that others, whose business may hereafter lead them +to this river, may profit by the difficulties we experienced in this +critical and dangerous passage. We were obliged to come to an anchorage in +the river during the night, under a very violent rain, and the next day +arrived at Robart, the factory of Mr. Aspinwall. + +This gentleman, whom a previous acquaintance had induced me to visit, +received us with great hospitality and kindness. From a residence of +upwards of 32 years on the coast, he possesses much intelligence and +valuable information relative to this part of Africa, and I am indebted to +him not only on this, but on former occasions, for many interesting +particulars. + +The factories of trade in this river are, + + + + Mr. Aspinwall, Robart. + Boatswain, A black chief and trader, above Robart. + Mr. Lewis, Rocoopa, attached to Bance Island. + Mr. Gordon, Thomas's Island, ditto. + + + +With a variety of small factories attached to those of Mr. Aspinwall. + +On the 15th we took leave of Mr. Aspinwall, and embarked on board a +schooner he had the kindness to furnish us with; and after a very tedious +and tempestuous passage, arrived at Sierra Leone on the 21st, having had +contrary winds to contend with; whereas with a favourable breeze, the +passage is usually performed in a few hours. + +Here I was attacked with the epidemic fever of Africa, and experienced the +medical assistance and friendship I have previously noticed. + +In an exceedingly exhausted state, but much recovered, I again embarked on +board the Minerva, where I had a second attack of the fever, accompanied by +dysentery, which reduced me to the lowest state of existence; and after one +of the most distressing and disagreeable voyages I ever experienced, we +arrived in Demerary roads after a passage of 71 days, and, by the +providence of the Almighty, we escaped both disease and the enemy. + +A few hours after we came to an anchor I went on shore, and I verily +believe that the passengers and spectators suspected they had received a +visitation from the world of spirits. When I reached the house of Mr. Colin +McCrea, Captain Brown's consignee, the unaffected and gentlemanlike +reception I met with, both from him and his lady, with their subsequent +kind conduct, can never be effaced from my memory. Captain Brown soon +joined us, and in the most engaging terms we were invited to become inmates +with Mr. McCrea and his partner, which we availed ourselves of during our +stay in Demerary. A few days after, I became acquainted with Mr. Alexander +McCrea, brother to my kind host, and as soon as my health would permit, +visited him at his plantation, the Hope, 11 miles from Stabroke, the +capital of the colony of Demerary. In this society, and from other +quarters, I was favoured with various information upon the situation of the +colonies in Dutch Guiana, and their importance in a political and +commercial point of view. + +The colonial produce of Demerary, Essequibo, and Berbice, chiefly consists +in sugar, coffee, cotton, rum, and molasses; but the richness and fertility +of the soil is capable of raising any tropical production; new sources +being daily unfolded, of the immense wealth derivable from these colonies, +and their great importance to Great Britain. The following example, +extracted from the Custom House reports, may elucidate this in a striking +degree. + +In the June fleet of 1804, consisting of sixty sail of various burthen and +tonnage, there were exported, viz. + + + + 17,235 Casks of sugar. 203 Casks coffee. + 442 Barrels do. 39,701 Barrels cotton. + 3,399 Puncheons rum. 336 Hhds. molasses. + 8,668,885 lbs. wt. coffee. + + + +Calculating sugar at £20. per cask, and £3. per barrel; rum 150 guilders, +or £12. 10s. per puncheon; coffee 1s. per lb.; cotton £20. per bale of 3 +cwt; and molasses a guilder, or 1s. 8d. per gallon, the total amount will +be upwards of £1,600,000. + +This immense export has since progressively increased, and colonists are +only wanting to augment it to an inconceivable extent. How valuable then do +these colonies become, and of what importance are they, in any negociation +with the enemy. + +Unquestionably under the fostering care and guidance of British +jurisprudence, they would produce an accumulated export infinitely beyond +the present computation, and be productive of increasing wealth to the +merchant, and revenue to the country. + +The lands are still more fertile proceeding towards the interior, and being +thinly inhabited, are attainable with great facility, and are extremely +various in their productions. + +At this period these valuable possessions were nearly in a defenceless +state, having a very inadequate and feeble military force to defend them, +and being almost without naval protection; they had literally only an armed +brig and schooner, built and set a float by the colony of Demerary, to +guard an extensive coast, and an immense property. + +In addition to the foregoing enumeration of commerce, indigo, pepper, +cacoa, or chocolate nut, &c. may be raised to great amount. Of the latter, +an individual planter at Berbice, from a nursery of 500,000 trees had +138,000 bearing ones in 1806, which when gathered in, calculating 5lb. to +each tree, will reimburse him in the sum of £32,000. + +Retrospectively viewed, it will appear that the colonies of Dutch Guiana +are of the utmost importance to the revenue, and wealth of Great Britain. +If any consequence is attached by government to the West Indies, and it +would be preposterous to infer that there is not, these become of great +magnitude in the estimation of our colonial possessions, and if they are to +revert to their former proprietors, it evidently should be for no mean +equivalent; and it is but justice to say, that when I was in this part of +the world, the apparent negligence in the protection and jurisdiction of +these possessions, by the administration of the day, had so far alienated +the minds of the inhabitants, that their reversion to the former government +did not appear to be a subject which would excite their regret; although +they were originally predisposed in favour of Great Britain. + +Contemplating also Dutch Guiana in our present state of warfare, and +viewing it, from its contiguity, as an alliance of magnitude to French +Guiana, the Brazils, and the Spanish settlements of South America, from +whence, in the existing situation of Europe, the insatiate ambition of our +inveterate enemy derives an important sinew of finance, which nerves his +arm in wielding the sword against the liberties and the existence of the +United Kingdom, they become infinitely enhanced, and are of still more +momentous consideration. + +Indisputably their possession would tend much to facilitate the British +dominion in this lucrative portion of the globe, which might lead to a +decisive termination of hostilities, and the permanent establishment of +honourable tranquillity. + +On the morning of the 30th of October I took my grateful leave of my +hospitable host and his family; and, accompanied by my trusty friend, +fellow voyager and traveller, Captain Brown, I embarked at noon on board +the ship Admiral Nelson, the command of which he had taken, accompanied by +about 20 sail of vessels under convoy of his Majesty's sloop of war, the +Cygnet, commanded by------Maude, Esq. + +Touching at Tobago, where our fleet was augmented, we came to an anchor in +the harbour of Grenada, on the 5th of November, and remained there until +the 9th. + +The history of this island, with that of the West Indies in general, is so +well known, that it would be delaying my readers unnecessarily, for me to +obtrude my observations. One anecdote, however, which among a variety of +experiments, I made to ascertain the sentiments of the Negroes in the +colonies, may prove, in a high degree, their sentiments upon their present +condition. When I mentioned to them some spot, or some head man in their +country within their recollection, with the utmost extacy they would say, +"eh! you look that, massa?" I then assured them I had, and described the +pullam, or palm tree, in their native town: the effect of this remembrance +was instantaneous, and demonstrated by the most extravagant expressions of +delight. Conceiving that I had attained my object, and being persuaded that +the transportation of these people was an oppressive transgression against +their natural rights, I added, "I had fine ship, I go back to their +country, and obtain leave from massa, to let them go look their country;" a +sudden transition from extravagance to grave reflection followed; "I, +massa, me like that very well, me like much to look my country; but +suppose, massa, they make me slave, me no see my massa again; all the same +to me where I be slave, but me like my massa best, and I no look my country +with you." + +Among every class with whom 1 have conversed on this subject, I have +uniformly received a similar answer, and it is a convincing proof that, by +humane treatment, the condition of the slave is improved, not only by his +transportation to the colonies, but in his own estimation. + +It may be interesting to notice, that at the island of Grenada, I had an +opportunity of correctly ascertaining the truth of a statement, I had heard +from a medical gentleman of respectability at Demerary, that, that ravager +of the human species, the yellow fever, was first imported into this island +from the island of Bulam, in the Rio Grande, upon the coast of Africa, by a +ship called the Hankey, which brought away the sickly colonists from that +unfortunate expedition. + +On the 16th we arrived at Tortola, and on the 19th sailed with the fleet +under convoy of the La Seine frigate, and landed at Liverpool on the 6th of +January, 1806. + + + +CHAPTER XI. + + + + +_Conclusion_. + +I have endeavoured in the foregoing pages, to introduce to my readers, the +substance of my diary of observations upon the Windward Coast of Africa. + +Originally I only intended them for my own private satisfaction, and that +of my intimate friends; but on my arrival in England, I found that the +commerce of Africa was then a particular subject in agitation, among a +large portion of my fellow subjects, and the legislature of my country. + +Under these circumstances, I conceived it my duty as a British commercial +subject, and as a friend to humanity, to communicate my sentiments to the +Right Honourable Lord Viscount Howick, then one of his Majesty's principal +secretaries of state; which I did in the subjoined letter. (Appendix No. +I.) Upon further reflection, and by the express wish of respectable +individuals, I have been induced to obtrude my narrative and sentiments +upon the notice of the public. I have avoided as much as possible to +magnify my personal adventures, and dangers, nor have I had recourse to the +flowing periods of description, preferring a simple narrative of facts +formed upon grounds of personal observation. From thence, if my endeavours +tend to awaken a spirit of enterprise, to enlarge the trade of the united +kingdom, and to increase the export of its manufactures, or lead to more +intelligent interference in behalf of the enslaved African, my design will +be accomplished. + +To do justice to the natural history of Africa, and to introduce to the +public its various sources of commerce, would require a union of political +interests, and vigorous execution, which none but government can apply with +full effect. + +The principal outline which I have endeavoured to confine myself to, is a +recital of such traits of the disposition and character of the natives, as +seem requisite to be understood to form an accurate judgment of the present +condition of Africa. The advantages that may possibly result not only from +moral, but political considerations, in forming upon sure principles, +agricultural and mercantile establishments, calculated to instruct and +civilize the Negroes employed in the necessary avocations, will unfold the +fertility of their soil which is now left to nature; and will also fulfil +the expectations of a rational humanity, while it might rapidly expel +slavery and the Slatee trade, to the establishment of civilization, and +more natural commerce. I have also endeavoured to demonstrate the +eligibility of the position of the river Sierra Leone, from whence a +controlling and administrative authority might employ the resources of the +Windward Coast from Cape Verde to Cape Palmas, at the same time submitting +solely to the wisdom of government, the propriety of annexing Senegal to +our possessions on the coast; which of course would tend to the total +exclusion of France from this part of the world. + +I have besides dwelt upon such positions, as appear to me best calculated +to establish factories of trade and agricultural operation; and upon the +nations whose barbarism must first be subdued, in order to influence other +tribes, and to obtain a free intercourse with the interior, and have +pointed out those chiefs whose dispositions and influence, would greatly +co-operate to facilitate this beneficent undertaking. + +The rivers I have dwelt upon, are surrounded with fertile lands and a +numerous population, and may be navigated a considerable distance into the +interior country; and by reducing all operations to one well adapted +system, under the guidance of experience, moderation, and wisdom, I am +firmly persuaded that success will be the result. + +What I have said relative to the present state of the natives of Africa, +may tend to demonstrate the nature of the opposition, which civilization +has to guard against, and the barbarism it has to contend with. The +condition of a free Negro in Africa is easy and contented, and the class of +slaves attached to them, are satisfied with their fate. They only are to be +lamented, who are procured from condemnation, either for real or imaginary +crimes, or who are taken in war; and it is from this class that slaves are +procured by other nations. It is a remarkable circumstance, that the major +part of these unhappy creatures come from the interior, and that the +maritime places which have had intercourse with Europeans, afford only a +small number of slaves; and I am persuaded, abominable as the slave trade +may be considered, and disgraceful as it is, that it has saved many human +beings from a premature and barbarous death. I am also firmly of opinion, +that it is only by a _gradual abolition_, and a rational system to civilize +the inhabitants of Africa, that this detested traffic can be effectually +abolished. A rational philosophy and humanity, should first have submitted +to political necessity, and have commenced experiment upon practicable +theories, while the sacred rights of property should have been regarded, +and well considered. + +This opinion may perhaps subject me to the animadversion of many worthy +individuals; but I beg to assure them, that I am as zealous an abolitionist +as any among my fellow subjects, although I widely differ from many of +them, as to the means of effecting a measure, that embraces so large a +portion of the human race; and I should contradict the conviction of my own +mind, were I to utter any other opinion. + +Rectitude of intention, a lively interest in the condition of the African, +and a deep impression of the importance of this country to Great Britain, +in a commercial point of view, have actuated me in obtruding myself upon +the public; and before I take my leave, I earnestly entreat a deliberate +investigation of the imperfect system of operation, I have recommended in +the foregoing pages. If I have not been sufficiently perspicuous, I trust +the shafts of criticism will be enfeebled by the consideration, that a +commercial education and pursuit cannot claim a title to literary +acquirements; but if in any instance I meet the judgment of a discerning +public, and my suggestions excite more competent endeavours, I shall feel +the highest pleasure, and satisfaction. + +Into the hands of an enlightened legislature, and a beneficent public, I +commit the Negro race; and may their endeavours be blest by Providence! may +they tend to enlarge the circle of civilized and Christian society, and +augment the commercial prosperity of the United Kingdom! + + + +APPENDIX. + +No. I. + +_To the Right Honourable Lord Viscount Howick, his Majesty's late principal +Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs; shewing at one View the most simple +and ready Mode of gradually and effectually abolishing the Slave Trade, and +eradicating Slavery, on the Eve of his Lordship introducing the late Bill +into Parliament for the Abolition of the Slate Trade_. + + + _London, 5th February, 1807._ + + MY LORD, + + +Stimulated by an ardent zeal for the political and commercial interests of +my country, and animated by the principles of humanity, I venture to +approach your Lordship upon a subject which, with every deference, I +conceive to be of the most momentous consequence at the present +conjuncture, namely, the existing state of Africa, and the relative +importance of its trade to the _United Kingdom_. + +In my communications to your Lordship, I shall adhere to that brevity which +is consistent with perspicuity, and a recognition of the importance +attached to your Lordship's time and weighty engagements. + +If experimental knowledge, my Lord, attaches any force to the observations +I now submit to your Lordship, I have to premise, that they are the result +of recent personal investigation, and are a summary of remarks detailed in +journals of a very excursive observation on the Windward Coast of Africa, +and a peculiar facility of intercourse with the chiefs and native tribes of +a widely extended circle, from which I am returned, by the West Indies, in +the late fleet under the convoy of his Majesty's frigate La Seine, and +Merlin sloop of war. + +As a preliminary introduction, permit me to refer your Lordship to the +annexed copy of a letter, (Appendix No. II.) which I ventured to address to +the Right Honourable the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, dated 1st +May, ultimo, in which is exemplified the present state of commerce from the +Island of Goree to Cape Palmas. Vide page 54. + +Conclusive as this example may be of its magnitude, yet it is infinitely +below its attainable increase. The want of naval protection, and the +patronage of government, has greatly fettered it, and exposed the property +engaged therein, to the incursions and destructive depredations of the +enemy. + +Connected with its present extent, the Gambia, the Rio Pongo, the river +Sierra Leone, and the rivers adjacent to Cape Palmas, abound with the +greatest variety of the most lucrative and rare objects of commercial +pursuit, namely, indigo, numerous plants for staining, pepper, cotton, and +a multifarious enumeration of dormant productions, besides timber of +various kinds, adapted to the building of ships destined to tropical +climates, having the peculiar quality of resisting the worm, so ruinous to +shipping, and corroding iron; it may be cut into planks of 20 feet by 15 +inches, and may be procured in any quantity. + +A retrospective view therefore, my Lord, displays a fruitful field to +commercial enterprise, to the attention of civilized nations, to the +naturalist, and to the metaphysician, requiring united interference only, +to unfold and fertilize them; which in effect, would tend to enfranchise a +kindred species, absorbed in barbarism, and preserve, uninterrupted, our +commercial advantages with this extraordinary and important quarter of the +globe. + +It is, certainly, my Lord, a subject of the deepest regret to the +philanthropist, that among the Africans, a devoted race is consigned to the +galling fetters of slavery by their inhuman customs, by their barbarous +hostilities, and the commercial expedients of civilized states. + +Much has been written and said, my Lord, upon this interesting subject, +from authority high in rank, in talents, and situation, but still it is +involved in a perplexed labyrinth; the attainable sources of African +commerce remain unexplored, and the inhabitants of its extensive regions +are still entangled by the thraldom of barbarous customs, and superstitious +infidelity. No efficient measures have been adopted, upon practicable +grounds, to unite the views of humanity and commerce in one harmonious +compact, compatible with the present condition of Africa, its character, +its customs, and its inveterate barbarism. + +Benevolence has, unhappily, hitherto failed in its objects, through the +opposition of a peculiar mixture of passions, of obstinate ferocity, and +licentious and hereditary habits. + +To subdue the inveteracy of these evils, and to establish the manumission +of the African, alluring and progressive alterations are necessary, +compatible with his present condition, under the influence of agriculture +and mechanics, adapted to the useful purposes of life, to commerce, and to +navigation. + +Previous to his enfranchisement, my Lord, these must exhibit before him +their facinations upon his native plains. Too impetuous and indolent to +observe the forms, or to enter into the necessary details of business, he +views the effect without investigating the cause; but when he perceives the +former, and contemplates his own comparative wretchedness, and contracted +sphere of intellect, he will be roused from his innate indolence, his +powers will be dilated, and his emulation stimulated to attain a more +exalted state of being, while his barbarism will fall before the luminous +displays of enlightened example. + +Hence, to free the African, commercial and agricultural societies adapted +to the present state of the country, appear to be the most practicable +means, and the only sources of remunerative and effective influence: but as +these measures necessarily require population from the parent state, aided +by great pecuniary support, and intelligent superintendance; the patronage +of the legislature is indispensibly requisite, to aid individual and +corporate endeavours. + +In pursuance hereof, imperceptible and circumspect approach at innovation +upon the laws, customs, and country of Africa, are highly expedient; the +chiefs and head men claim a primary consideration; their obstinate +predilection in favour of long-existing usage must be cajoled, the +inveteracy of their jealousies and superstitions be dexterously removed, +and their sordid avarice flattered, by the judicious maxims of policy, and +by the prospects of superior gain. + +The slave trade, therefore, being lucrative, and of immemorial existence, +must, in the interim, pursue its present course, as a fatality attached to +the condition of Africa, and as a polluted alliance, which the dictates of +policy and humanity impose, until a succedaneum is found in its stead. + +While this invidious exigency obstructs the immediate manumission of the +slave, it does not the less accelerate it in conformity thereto, but on the +contrary, is a necessary preliminary to his efficacious emancipation. + +Before he is admitted into the political society of his master, and is +allowed to be free, his intellectual faculties must be expanded by the +example of polished society, and by the arts of civilization. + +Maxims of policy, my Lord, are often apparently little consonant with those +of morality; and where an inveterate evil in society is to be eradicated, +address and delicacy in managing the humours and interests of men, are arts +requisite to success. + +This consideration is applicable to the present condition of the Africans, +and may perhaps justify a farther continuance of the _slave trade_, as +compatible with its _radical abolition_. + +The reasonings adopted by a numerous assemblage of chiefs, convened in the +retirement of the mountains of Sierra Leone, when _that_ company assumed a +defensive attitude, most clearly prove this grievous necessity. + +In their idiom of our language they say, "White man now come among us with +new face, talk palaver we do not understand, they bring new fashion, great +guns, and soldiers into our country, but they make no trade, or bring any +of the fine money of their country with them, therefore we must make war, +and kill these white men." + +This, my Lord, is an impressive epitome of the sentiments of the whole +country, and hence the impolicy of illuminating their minds and abolishing +slavery, in order to erect a system of reformation upon an invidious base +in the estimation of the governing characters of the country. + +With every deference, my Lord, to the wisdom and benevolence which framed +the constitution of the Sierra Leone Company, I would observe, that had +they adopted the following measures, they would before now have been far +advanced in their scheme of reformation. + +1st. They should have employed their funds in the established commerce of +the country. 2d. Have purchased slaves from as _wide an extent_ of native +tribes as was practicable; they should have employed them in that capacity, +under the superintendence of the European colonist; have initiated them +into the arts of agriculture and useful mechanics, manufactures, and +navigation, and have instructed them in the rudiments of letters, religion, +and science, &c. + +3d. having arrived at this state of civilization and knowledge, their +_graduated manumission_ should have proceeded in proportion to their +fidelity and attainments. + +And, lastly, being thus qualified, they should have employed them as the +agents to their tribe, to make known to them the arcana of wealth in their +country, dormant through hereditary barbarism and superstitious idolatry, + +From the adoption of the first proposition, a facility of intercourse with +the interior and native tribes would have been acquired, and also a +knowledge of the genius, policy, customs, manners, and commercial resources +of the neighbouring nations. + +By the 2d, the seeds of science would have been disseminated throughout an +extended district, and a spirit of industry and enquiry would have been +infused, which, by imperceptible degrees, under the guidance of Providence, +might eventually have been spread throughout the most remote regions of +Africa. + +By means of the 3d, the objects of humanity would have been realized. + +And by the progressive influence of the last, a system of civilization and +commercial enterprize would have been diffused, and an equivalent, in +process of time, been obtained, consistent with the cogency of existing +circumstances, and the African's present state of being. + +By adopting this system, my Lord, the maxims of sagacious policy, and the +claims of humanity, upon practicable principles, may be united, and adapted +to the present condition of Africa, while our commerce therewith will be +invigorated and encreased, and will flow without interruption through a +less polluted channel; the seclusion of the African from the refined arts +of society be annihilated, his jealousies allayed, his nature regenerated, +his barbarism fall before the advantages of enlightened existence, and his +enslaved customs make their natural exit, together with the slave trade, +from his shores and his country. + +How animating is this contemplation, my Lord, to the beneficence of +enlightened nations, and how worthy of the magnanimity of a British +government to effect! + +In the interim, my Lord, new and accumulated sources of commerce, &c. will +remunerate the parent state in a manner more congenial with the natural +rights of mankind, while a monumental column will be erected to humanity, +which will perpetuate its exalted benevolence, and excite the admiration +of, and be an example to, the civilized world; but if Africa is abandoned +by Great Britain, it will be subject to the rapacity of other nations, who, +_to my personal knowledge_, are _now_ directing their views towards its +commerce in the contemplation of that abandonment, and who will, no doubt, +seize it with avidity, as being highly lucrative and important; while the +African's chains will still clink in the ears of the civilized world, his +fetters be rivetted more closely, and his miserable fate be consigned to +the uncertainty of human events. + +Finally, permit me to assure your Lordship, that I am wholly uninfluenced, +and that I am, at this moment, ignorant of the present opinions of men in +Europe upon this interesting subject, as I have just arrived in England, +and have been excluded for some time past from any other scene but that of +personal observation in Africa. + +I have considered the subject with deep interest, and finding the momentous +question upon the eve of being agitated by the legislature, I have +conceived it my duty, as a British commercial Subject, to give every +information to your Lordship, within my personal knowledge, and have, +therefore, obtruded my thoughts upon you; and if your Lordship deems a more +detailed and systematic view of my journals of any interest, I am ready to +unfold them with the utmost alacrity. In the interim, I am, + + + My Lord, + Your Lordship's most obedient + humble servant, + + + + JOSEPH CORRY. + + +No. II. + + + + _To the Right Honourable the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty,_ + _referred to in the foregoing Letter to Lord Howick._ + + _Bance Island, River Sierra Leone, Coast of Africa,_ + _May 1st, 1806._ + + + + MY LORDS, + + +That consideration which has uniformly distinguished your Lordships for the +safe-guardianship of our commerce, and the property engaged in it, +stimulates me to approach your Lordships with some few observations on the +present state of the African trade, and its dependencies. + +My object is, to submit to your Lordships a statement of the British +capital involved in that commerce, as exemplified by the present amount of +export, diligently ascertained from the most authentic sources of +intelligence, and to offer some brief remarks on its importance to the +United Kingdom, and the necessity of a more adequate naval protection. + +In the first place, permit me to solicit your Lordships' attention to the +estimate of annual export from the Windward Coast of Africa. (Vide page +54.) + +Your Lordships will perceive, that the amount of export _only_ is here +under review; and I submit to your consideration the capital vested in the +necessary shipping, also the property of British factors, resident on the +Coast, and factories belonging to merchants at home, which forms another +article of great importance. + +During the present war, from the Rio Noonez to the river Sierra Leone, 660 +slaves, and more than the value of 100 slaves in craft, have fallen into +the hands of the enemy; which were forcibly seized upon the premises of +factories, the property of British subjects, to the amount of 35,000_l_. at +the computation of 50 each, valuing them upon an equitable average: +moreover, about one hundred resident free people have been involved in this +violence, of incalculable importance, and ground of indefinite claims from +the natives. + +When your Lordships contemplate these facts, and the annual emolument +derived from this commerce by the government, and a numerous body of +merchants, it may be presumed that its magnitude is of sufficient +consequence to justify the expense of _adequate naval protection_. + +British subjects connected with, and resident on, the Coast, are +consequently become deeply interested, and are earnestly solicitous for an +extension of your Lordships' paternal care towards their possessions. The +principal amount, as before shewn, necessarily in the progress of business, +passes into currency through their hands, which, with the surplus property +they have in their stores, their buildings, and people, creates a momentous +risque, which is exposed to the predatory ravages of piccaroon privateers, +and to the hostile squadrons and depredations of the enemy. + +With all due retrospective reference to your Lordships' vigilance and +watchful guardianship over our commerce, I take the liberty to remind your +Lordships, that only one sloop of war, the Arab, (the Favourite being +taken) has been charged with the important office of defending an extent of +coast of upwards of 1000 miles, against the sweeping hand of the enemy; an +example of which has fatally occurred in the late destruction effected by +Commodore L'Hermitte's squadron, to the very serious injury of many British +merchants, and perhaps the ruin of many underwriters upon African risques. + +From the apparent approaches the legislature appears to make towards an +abolition of the slave trade, the object of consideration for the defence +of the coast of Africa may have become of less comparative magnitude; but +when upwards of one million in export from thence, and its enumerated +appendages, are entangled, and at imminent hazard, an animated and +impressive appeal is made your Lordships for every practicable security, +while it remains in existence; and to the legislative wisdom, for a +remuneration commensurate thereto, in the event of its annihilation. + +Trusting that your Lordships will deign to recognize the importance of this +subject, and will vouchsafe to pardon my temerity in assuming to suggest to +your Lordships' wisdom the expediency of establishing a more adequate and +permanent naval force for the protection of the trade and coast of Africa, +I am, + + + My Lord, + Your Lordship's most obedient + devoted humble servant, + + + + JOSEPH CORRY. + + +No. III. + + +When the foregoing narrative and observations were prepared for the press, +the original minutes from whence the following Appendix is compiled, had +not come to hand, as they remained with a part of my papers, which I have +since received from the coast of Africa. + +The substance of these miscellaneous fragments I shall divide into +sections, descriptive of the different subjects to which they allude, and +it may be found that they illustrate more fully many of the foregoing +remarks upon the Windward Coast of Africa. + +SECTION I. + +_Of the Purrah_. + +Among the singular customs of the inhabitants of Africa, there exists in +the vicinity of the Sierra Leone, and more particularly among the mixed +tribes of the Foolahs, Soosees, Boolams, &c. an institution of a religious +and political nature. It is a confederation by a solemn oath, and binds its +members to inviolable secrecy not to discover its mysteries, and to yield +an implicit obedience to superiors, called by the natives the _Purrah_. + +As it is dangerous to enquire from the natives, and consequently difficult +to procure information on this subject, conjecture must supply the want of +oral and ocular testimony; but what I have here advanced I had from an +intelligent chief, who was a member of the society, who, I am nevertheless +convinced, preserved his integrity, in communicating the following +particulars, as I never could induce him to touch upon any part of the +mysteries, which he acknowledged to exist, but spoke of them with the +utmost reserve. + +The members of this secret tribunal are under the supreme control of a +sovereign, whose superior, or _head man_, commands by his council, absolute +submission and authority from the subordinate councils and members. + +To be admitted into the confederacy it is necessary to be thirty years of +age; and to be a member of the grand _purrah_, fifty years; and the oldest +member of the subordinate _purrahs_ form those of the sovereign _purrahs_. + +No candidate is admitted but at the recommendation and responsibility of +members, who imprecate his death, if he betrays fear during his initiation +into the ceremonies, or the sacred mysteries of the association; from which +females are entirely excluded. + +Some months elapse, in the preparation for admission, and the candidate +passes through the severest trials, in which every dreadful expedient is +employed to ascertain his firmness of mind, and courage. + +The candidate is conducted to a sacred wood, where a place is appointed for +his habitation, from which he dares not absent himself; if he does, he is +immediately surrounded and struck dead. His food is supplied by men masked, +and he must observe an uniform silence. + +Fires, during the night, surround these woods, to preserve them inviolate +from the unhallowed steps of curiosity, into which if indiscretion tempts +any one to enter, a miserable exit is the result. + +When the trials are all gone through, _initiation_ follows; the candidate +is first sworn to secrecy, to execute implicitly the decrees of the +_purrah_ of his order, and to be devoted to the commands of the _sovereign +purrah_. + +During the process of initiation, the hallowed woods resound with dreadful +howlings, shrieks, and other horrid noises, accompanied by conflagrations +and flames. + +This secret and inquisitorial tribunal takes cognizance of crimes and +delinquencies, more especially witchcraft and murder; and also operates as +a mediator in wars, and dissentions among powerful tribes and chiefs. Its +interference is generally attended with effect, more particularly if +accompanied by a threat of vengeance from the _purrah_; and a suspension of +hostilities is scrupulously observed, until it is determined who is the +aggressor; while this investigation takes place by the sovereign _purrah_, +as many of the warriors are convoked, as they conceive necessary to enforce +their judgment, which usually consigns the guilty to a pillage of some +days. To execute the decree, they avail themselves of the night to depart +from the place where the sovereign _purrah_ is assembled, previously +disguising their persons with hideous objects, and dividing themselves into +detachments, armed with torches and warlike weapons; they arrive at the +village of the condemned, and proclaim with tremendous yells the decree of +the sovereign _purrah_. The affrighted victims of superstition and +injustice are either murdered or made captives, and no longer form a people +among the tribes. + +The produce arising from this horrid and indiscriminate execution of the +decrees of this tribunal is divided equally between the injured tribe, and +the sovereign _purrah_; the latter share is again subdivided among the +warriors employed in the execution of its diabolical decree, as a +recompense for their zeal, obedience, and promptitude. + +The families of the tribes under the dominion of this infernal confederacy, +when they become objects of suspicion or rivalry, are subjected to +immediate pillage, and if they resist, are dragged into their secret +recesses, where they are condemned, and consigned to oblivion. + +Its supreme authority is more immediately confined to the Sherbro; and the +natives of the Bay of Sierra Leone speak of it with reserve and dread: they +consider the brotherhood as having intercourse with the _bad spirit_, or +devil, and that they are sorcerers, and invulnerable to human power. Of +course the _purrah_ encourages these superstitious prejudices, which +establish their authority and respect, as the members are numerous, and are +known to each other by certain signs and expressions. The Mandingos have +also their sacred woods and mysteries, where, by their delusions and +exorcisms, they prepare their children for circumcision. + +The Soosees, inhabiting the borders of the Rio Pongo, have a species of +_purrah_, which gives its members great consequence among them; but their +ceremonies are kept also with inviolable secrecy, and they are bound by +horrid oaths and incantations. These people seem to delight in +disseminating improbable tales of their institution, and their invention +appears to be exhausted in superstitious legends of its mysteries. + +The Timmanees have an inquisitorial institution called _bunda_, noticed in +page 72, to which women only are subjected. The season of penitence is +superintended by an elderly woman, called _bunda_ woman; and fathers even +consign their wives and daughters to her investigation when they become +objects of suspicion. Here is extracted from them an unreserved confession +of every crime committed by themselves, or to which they are privy in +others. Upon their admission they are besmeared with white clay, which +obliterates every trace of human appearance, and they are solemnly abjured +to make an unequivocal confession; which if not complied with, they are +threatened with death as the inevitable consequence. The general result is +a discovery of fact and falsehood, in proportion as their fears of +punishment are aroused, which the _bunda_ woman makes known to the people +who assemble in the village or town where the _bunda_ is instituted. If she +is satisfied with the confession, the individual is dismissed from the +_bunda_, and, as is noticed in Chapter VII. an act of oblivion is passed +relative to her former conduct; but where the crime of witchcraft is +included, slavery is uniformly the consequence: those accused as partners +of her guilt are obliged to undergo the ordeal by _red water_, redeem +themselves by slaves, or go into slavery themselves. + +When the _bunda_ woman is dissatisfied with the confessions, she makes the +object sit down, and after rubbing poisonous leaves, procured for the +purpose, between her hands, and infusing them in water, she makes her drink +in proportion to its strength. It naturally occasions pain in the bowels, +which is considered as an infallible evidence of guilt. Incantations and +charms are then resorted to by the _bunda_ woman, to ascertain what the +concealed crime is, and after a _decent_ period employed in this +buffoonery, the charges are brought in conformity with the imagination or +malignity of this priestess of mystery and iniquity. + +During the continuance of this engine of avarice, oppression, and fraud in +any town, the chiefs cause their great drum and other instruments of music +to be continually in action, and every appearance of festive hilarity +pervades among the inhabitants, accompanied by the song and the dance. + +Contumacy, or a refusal to confess, is invariably followed by death. + +In short, the bewildered natives feel the effects, and dread the power of +these extraordinary institutions; they know they exist, but their +deliberations and mysteries are impenetrably concealed from them; and the +objects of their vengeance are in total ignorance, until the annihilating +stroke of death terminates their mortal career. + +It is impossible to contemplate the religious institutions, and +superstitious customs of the western nations of Africa, north of the +equator, without closely assimilating them with those of Ethiopia and +Egypt; and from hence to infer that a correspondence has existed between +the eastern and western inhabitants of this great continent. + +SECTION II. + +_Of the_ Termite, Termes, _or_ Bug a Bug, _as it is called by the Natives +upon the Windward Coast of Africa._ + +Among the insects mentioned in page 36, the _termite, termes_, or _bug a +bug_, attracts peculiar notice. The following observations are derived from +the investigations I occasionally made upon the Island of Tasso, attached +to Bance Island, where they abound, and indeed in nearly all the western +countries of Africa. + +The oeconomy of nature, and the wisdom of Providence, are wonderfully +displayed in these little animals; for although they occasion the utmost +devastation to buildings, utensils, and all kinds of household furniture +and merchandize, and indeed every thing except metal and stone, yet they +answer highly important purposes in demolishing the immense quantity of +putrid substances, which load the earth in tropical climates. + +Their astonishing peculiarities cannot fail to excite the notice of an +attentive observer; the sagacity and ingenuity they display in their +buildings, their industry, and the plunder and devastation they commit, is +incredible to those who have not witnessed their communities and empires. +They are divided into innumerable societies, and acknowledge a king and +queen, the former of which I brought to Europe, but the latter was by +accident mislaid at sea. Linnaeus denominates the African _bug a bug, +Termes_, and describes it as the plague of the Indies. Every community, as +I have observed, has a king and queen, and the monarchy, if I may be +allowed the expression, forms three distinct orders of insects, in three +states of existence; of every species there are likewise three orders, +which differ very essentially in the functions they have to perform, and +are in appearance very different. + +In their primitive state, they are perfectly white; they have six little +feet, three on each side, and a small head, in which I could perceive no +eyes, after a minute investigation with a microscope. In this state they +supply the community with provisions from subterraneous cavities, fabricate +their pyramidical buildings, and may with great propriety be called +labourers. + +In a few weeks they destroy the largest trunks of trees, carry away all +descriptions of putrid substances, and particles of vegetable decay, which, +in such a climate as Africa, amply compensates for the ruin which they +otherwise occasion. + +Their buildings are contrived and finished with great ingenuity and +solidity, to a magnitude infinitely beyond the erections of man, when a +comparative dimension of size is considered. + +They are usually termed hills, and are generally in a conical form, from 10 +to 12 feet in perpendicular height, and frequently upwards of 100 feet +square in the base. + +For a considerable period, vegetation is banished from the surface of their +abode, but from the second to the third year, it becomes like the +surrounding soil. The exterior forms a crust, which shelters the interior +from the weather, and the community from the attacks of enemies. The +interior is divided into almost innumerable chambers or apartments, with +amazing regularity and contrivance; in the centre of which is the royal +residence of the king and queen, composed of solid clay, closely compacted, +and distinct from the external habitation, which accommodate their +subjects. It appears that the royal erection is the first which occupies +the attention of the labourers, as it is central in the foundation of the +hill which composes the empire at large. This makes its first appearance +above the surface of the earth in various turrets, in the form of a sugar +loaf, from which they increase their number, widening them from the base; +the middle one is the highest and largest, and they fill up the spaces as +they proceed, until the whole is formed into one. + +This compact construction is admirably adapted to guard against external +violence, and to preserve a genial warmth and moisture to cherish the +hatching of the eggs, and the young. + +The queen is by far the largest, and has an unwieldy body, of enormous +dimensions, when compared with her subjects; so also is the king, but +inferior in size to the queen. + +The royal residence is a full constructed hill, surrounded by an +innumerable number of others, differing in shape and dimensions, arched in +various forms, circular, and elliptical, which communicate by passages, +occupied by guards and attendants, and surrounded by nurseries and +magazines. But when the community is in an infant state, these are +contiguous to the royal residence; and in proportion as the size of the +queen increases, her chamber is enlarged, and her attendants and apartments +multiplied. + +The construction of the outward apartments which surround the central royal +residence, that of the _common father_ and _mother_ of the community, form +an intricate labyrinth of nurseries and magazines, separated by chambers +and galleries, communicating with each other, and continuing towards the +surface of the pyramid; and being arched, they support each other, and are +uniformly larger towards the centre. + +The second order of _termes_ are like the first, blind and active, but they +undergo a change of form, approaching to the perfect state; they are much +larger, and increase from about a quarter of an inch in length to half an +inch, and greater in bulk; and what is still more remarkable, the mouth is +armed with sharp claws, and the head is disproportionably enlarged. They +may properly be called the nurses and warriors of the kingdom; they urge +their fellow subjects in the _first_ state to labour, they inspect the +construction of the interior apartments, repel all attacks from enemies, +and devour them with fury; and may be considered as the standing army of +the state. + +In the third and last stage, they are winged; their bodies then measure +about 7/8ths of an inch in length, furnished with four brownish transparent +wings, rather large; they have eyes also of a disproportionate size, +visible to the observer. When they make their appearance in this state, it +is indicative of the approach of the rainy season. At this period they +procreate their species. + +They seldom wait before they take wing for a second or third shower; and +should the rain happen in the night, the quantities of them which are found +the next morning upon the surface of the earth, and on the waters, more +particularly upon the latter, are astonishing. The term of existence at +this stage is extremely short, and frequently on the following morning +after they have taken flight, they are surprisingly weakened and decreased; +at the utmost I do not think they live more than two days; and these +insects, so industrious, courageous, and destructive in the two first +periods of their existence, become the prey of innumerable enemies. +Indolent, and incapable of resisting the smallest insects, they are hunted +by various species from place to place, and not one pair in millions get +into a place of safety, to fulfil the laws of nature and propagation. + +Their wings in a short time fall from them, and the ponds and brooks are +covered with their carcases. The Negroes in many places collect them in +their calabashes, dry them, and fry them on a slow fire, which they +consider as a delicious morsel. + +A few, however, escape the general dissolution, several pairs of them are +found by those of the first genus, as they are continually moving over the +surface of the earth, and are carried by them to found new kingdoms and +communities. The royal mansion is then erected, as before described, their +wings fall off, and they pass the remainder of their existence in indolence +and luxury, and in the propagation of their species. Their dimensions now +undergo a monstrous change, more especially the queen; her abdomen augments +by degrees, and increases to a prodigious size, when compared with her two +first stages of existence; and the king, although greatly augmented, yet is +diminutive compared to his enormous spouse, who sometimes exceeds three +inches in length. She is in this state extremely prolific, and the matrix +is almost perpetually yielding eggs, which are taken from her by her +attendants, and are carried into the adjoining nurseries. + +The foregoing is a very imperfect delineation of this wonderful insect, +which requires the minutest description by an experienced and scientific +naturalist to illustrate clearly; and there are many secrets in the natural +history of this little animal that would amply reward his investigation +upon the different circumstances attending its existence. + +Those that build in trees, or erect pyramids, have a strong resemblance to +each other, and pass through the same stages to the winged state, but they +are not of so large a size as the foregoing; and it is a very singular +circumstance, that of all these different species, neither the labourers +nor soldiers expose themselves to the open air, but travel in subterraneous +vaults, unless when they are obstructed and impelled by necessity; and when +their covered ways and habitations are destroyed, it is wonderful how +quickly they will rebuild them. I have frequently destroyed them in the +evening, and have found them re-erected on the following morning. + +When a pair, in the perfect state, is rescued from the general devastation +which attends these little animals, they are by the two first species +elected king and queen, and are inclosed in a chamber, as before described, +around which a new empire is formed, and pyramids are erected. + +That species which builds in trees, frequently establish their abode in +houses also, which in time they will entirely destroy, if not extirpated. +The large kind, however, are more destructive, and more difficult to guard +against, as their approaches are principally made under-ground, and below +the foundation; they rise either in the floors, or under the posts, which +in African buildings support the roof, and as they proceed, they form +cavities towards the top, similar to the holes bored in the bottom of ships +by the worms, which appear to answer the same purpose in water as the +_termites_ do upon land. How convincing is this fact of the infinitely wise +arrangements of the Creator, who has united, in the whole system of +creation, one uniform conformation of order and utility; for although the +_vermis_, or worm, which is so pernicious to shipping in tropical climates, +and the _termite_, possess so many destructive qualities, yet these very +properties serve the most important purposes and designs. Scarcely any +thing perishable on land escapes the _termite_, or in water, the worm; and +it is from thence evident, that these animals are designed by nature to rid +both of incumbrances, which in tropical climates would be attended with +putrefaction and disease. + +The first object which strikes the attention, and excites admiration, upon +opening and investigating the hills of the _termites_, is, the conduct of +the armed species, or soldiers; when a breach is made by a pick-axe, or +hoe, they instantaneously sally forth in small parties round the breach, as +if to oppose the enemy, or to examine the nature of the attack, and the +numbers increase to an incredible degree as long as it continues; parties +frequently return as if to give the alarm to the whole community, and then +rush forth again with astonishing fury. At this period they are replete +with rage, and make a noise which is very distinguishable, and is similar +to the ticking of a watch; if any object now comes in contact with them, +they seize it, and never quit their hold until they are literally torn in +pieces. When the violence against their habitation ceases, they retire into +their nests, as if nothing had happened, and the observer will +instantaneously perceive the labourers at work, with a burthen of mortar in +their mouths, which they stick upon the breach with wonderful facility and +quickness; and although thousands and millions are employed, yet they never +embarrass the proceedings of each other, but gradually fill up the chasm. +While the labourers are thus employed, the greatest part of the soldiers +retire, a few only being discernible, who evidently act as overseers, and +at intervals of about a minute, make the vibrating noise before described, +which is immediately answered by an universal hiss from the labourers, and +at this signal they redouble their exertions with encreased activity. + +In minutely examining these hills, great obstacles present themselves to +the observer; the apartments and nurseries which surround the royal +habitation, and the whole internal fabric, are formed of moist brittle +clay, and are so closely connected, that they can only be examined +separately, for having a geometrical dependance upon each other, the +demolition of one pulls down more; patience is therefore exhausted in the +investigation, and it is impossible to proceed without interruption; for +while the soldiers are employed in defending the breach, the labourers are +engaged in barricading the different galleries and passages towards the +royal chamber. In one apartment which I dug out from a hill, I was forcibly +struck with their attachment and allegiance to their sovereigns; and as it +is capacious enough to hold a great number of attendants, of which it has a +constant supply, I had a fair opportunity offered for experiment, I secured +it in a small box; and these faithful creatures never abandoned their +charge; they were continually running about their king and queen, stopping +at every circuit, as if to administer to them, and to receive their +commands. + +Upon exposing their different avenues and chambers for a night only, before +the next morning, provided the king and queen are preserved, and their +apartments remain, it will be found that they are all shut up with a thin +covering of clay, and every interstice in the ruins, through which either +cold or wet could communicate, filled up, which is continued with +unremitting industry until the building is restored to its pristine state. + +Besides these species, there are also the _marching termites_, of an +encreased size, who make excursions in large bodies, and spread devastation +in their way; but as my means of observation upon them was only accidental, +it will be intruding an imperfect description to notice them at all; but if +we form a conclusion from the immense number of _termites_ which everywhere +abound in Africa, we shall be tempted to believe that their procreation is +endless and unceasing. + +When the papers came to hand which contained the substance of these remarks +upon this extraordinary insect, I did not intend to annex them to the +Observations on the Windward Coast of Africa, nor am I without some doubt +as to the propriety of so doing; the observation of the learned +_naturalist_ only can ascertain the economy of the _termite_, or _bug a +bug_, and I have therefore to apologize for obtruding these imperfect and +general remarks. + +SECTION III. + +_Of the Cameleon_. + +The cameleon is a native of the torrid zone, and is a genus of the lizard: +the faculty of assuming the colour of every object it approaches is +ascribed to it, and other singular properties; but there are many rare +phoenomena not so well understood, such as its absorption and expulsion of +air at pleasure, its property of living a considerable time without any +kind of nourishment, and its extraordinary visual advantages, which are +perhaps not to be found in any other of the wonderful works of the +creation. + +I have made various experiments to ascertain these extraordinary properties +in this little animal; and I brought home one in a preserved state. + +The first object which struck my attention, was the variation of colour; +and I am persuaded that it does not assume these from the surrounding +objects, but that they proceed from internal sensations of pain, or +otherwise. + +From the moment that the liberty of my captive was infringed upon, or when +interrupted in its pursuits, it became less sensible of external objects, +the vivacity of its colour, and the plumpness of its form underwent a +visible change. Its natural colour is a beautiful green; and when in a +state of liberty it is to be found in the grass, or lodged on the branches +of some tree, ornamented with the gayest foilage; and it would appear that +its liberty, and the privilege of living in the grass, are indispensible +towards the preservation of its qualities. The colour of its skin, in a +perfect state of health, is scarcely discernible from the trees and grass, +in which it delights to conceal itself, and is not to be discovered at all +without a very minute scrutiny. It remains immoveable for a length of time, +and its motions are all cautious and slow, continuing to loll out its +tongue, which is long and glutinous, in order to secure the little insects +that are necessary to its nourishment; and I doubt not but it has an +attractive influence over its prey, for I have observed them continually +floating around the cameleon, when scarcely discernible in any other space. +When the tongue is covered with a sufficient quantity it draws it in +instantaneously, and by incessantly repeating the operation, all the +insects within its reach are taken in the snare. + +That its health and existence depend upon being in the grass, I am +persuaded, from the change occasioned by placing it in gravel or sand, when +it immediately assumes a yellow tinge, its form is reduced considerably, +and the air expelled, with which the body of this animal is inflated, so as +visibly to reduce the size. If they are irritated in this situation, they +expell the air so strong as even to be heard, gradually decreasing in size, +and becoming more dull in colour, until at length they are almost black; +but upon being carried into the grass, or placed on the branches of a tree, +they quickly assume their wonted solidity and appearance. + +The victims of my observation I have frequently wrapped in cloth of various +colours, and have left them for a considerable time, but when I visited +them I did not find that they partook of any of the colours, but uniformly +were of a tarnished yellow, or greyish black, the colours they always +assume when in a state of suffering and distress, and I never could succeed +in making them take any other when in a situation of constraint. The skin +of the cameleon is of a very soft and delicate texture, and appears to the +observer similar to a shagreen skin, elastic and pliable; and it may be +owing to this extraordinary construction that it changes its colours and +size with that facility which astonishes us; but what may be considered as +a more wonderful faculty is, its expanding and contracting itself at +pleasure, and, as it were, retaining the fluid in an uniform manner, when +in health, but exhaling it when in a state of suffering, so as to reduce +its dimensions to a more contracted size. Its peculiar organization is +such, that the atmospheric air which it inhales so generally throughout +every part of its body, distends and projects even its eyes and +extremities. I have frequently seen it after many days fasting become +suddenly plump, and continue so for a fortnight, when immediately it became +nothing but a skeleton of skin and bone. + +The tenuity of its body is at these seasons astonishing, the spine of its +back becomes pointed, the flesh of its sides adhere to each other, and +apparently form one united subsance, when it will, in a few hours, at +pleasure, resume its rotund state; and this appears to me to be a most +extraordinary circumstance in the construction of this animal, which +invites the minutest research of the naturalist. + +To convince myself how far the assertion might be admitted, that the +cameleon can exist upon air, I have placed them in a cage, so constructed, +as to exclude any thing else, even the minutest insect; when I have visited +my captives, they have opened their mouths and expelled the air towards me +so as to be felt and heard. In the first stage of their privation and +imprisonment, which has continued for more than a month, I have found them +in continual motion around their prison, but afterwards their excursions +became more circumscribed, and they have sunk to the bottom, when their +powers of distension and contraction became languid and decreased, and were +never again capable of performing their accustomed transformation. The one +which I brought to England preserved in spirits, after undergoing upwards +of two months of famine, when I carried it among the grass, or placed it in +the thick foliage of a tree, in little more than a week regained its green +colour, and power of expansion; but not contented with my experiment, and +determined to ascertain it to the utmost, I redoubled my precautions to +exclude every thing but air, and my devoted victim was doomed to another +series of trial, and continued to exist upwards of a month, when it fell a +sacrifice to my curiosity. + +The eyes of the cameleon may also be considered a remarkable singularity; +they are covered with a thin membrane, which nature has given it to supply +the want of eye-lids, and this membrane is sunk in the centre by a +lengthened hole, which forms an orifice, bordered by a shining circle. This +covering follows all the motions of the eye so perfectly, that they appear +to be one and the same; and the aperture, or lengthened hole, is always +central to the pupil, the eyes moving in every direction, independant of +each other; one eye will be in motion while the other is fixed, one looking +behind while the other is looking before, and another directed above while +its companion is fixed on the earth, so that its eyes move in every +possible direction, independant of each other, without moving the head, +which is closely compacted with the shoulders. + +By these quick evolutions its personal safety is guarded, and it perceives +with quickness the insects and flies, which it is always entrapping by its +glutinous tongue. + +Without doubt, this species of lizard possesses peculiarities well worthy +the attention of naturalists, who only can define them; what I have said I +have observed in my leisure moments, and must be considered as a very +imperfect detail of its natural history. + +SECTION IV. + +_Of the Interment of the Dead._ + +The ceremony of burial upon the Windward Coast of Africa is conducted with +great singularity, solemnity, and extravagant circumstances of condolence. + +The body of the deceased is wrapped up in a cloth, closely sewed around it, +and the head is covered with a white cap of cotton, which is the colour +universally adopted in mourning. The relatives of the deceased bedaub +themselves from head to foot with white clay, upon which they form the most +disgusting figures, while scarcely a leg or an arm exhibits the same +feature. I have even seen serpents and other frightful animals delineated +with great accuracy on many parts of the body, which gives them a most +hideous appearance during the season of mourning. + +When the corps has been washed, and put into a white cloth of cotton, of +the manufacture of the country, the whole is inclosed in a mat, and laid +out in state. + +The corps is placed over the grave upon four sticks across, and after one +of the nearest relatives has collected all the finery with which the +deceased was accustomed to decorate himself, and that also which remains +among his family, he asks him, with expressions of sorrow, if he wants such +and such an article for his comfort in the other world, in which he is +accompanied by the remainder of his family and friends, who join in _making +cry,_ or more property speaking, in dancing and rejoicing. The following +night the dance and song is continued with demonstrations of mirth and +glee, and are kept up every successive night during that moon; and if the +deceased has been of consequence in his tribe, these extravagant acts of +lamentation continue for months together. + +_On the Amusements, Musical Instruments, &c. of the Africans._ + +Upon all occasions of mirth or sorrow, the dance is uniformly introduced, +with monotonous songs, sometimes tender and agreeable, at other times +savage and ferocious, but always accompanied by a slow movement; and it may +with propriety be said, that all the nights in Africa are spent in dancing; +for after the setting of the sun, every village resounds with songs, and +music; and I have often listened to them with attention and pleasure, +during the tranquil evenings of the dry season. + +Villages a league distant from each other frequently perform the same song, +and alternately change it, for hours together. While this harmonic +correspondence continues, and the inhabitants of the neighbouring villages +chaunt their couplets, the youth of both sexes listen with the greatest +attention and pleasure. + +Among the several kinds of instruments of music which accompany the +ceremonies of mourning or mirth among the Africans, the drum is the +principal. It is made from a hard thin wood, about three feet long, which +is covered with a skin distended to the utmost. They strike it with the +fingers of the right hand collected together, which serves to beat time in +all their dances. Among the Foulahs and Soosees they have a kind of flute, +made of a hard reed, which produces sounds both unmusical and harsh: but +all the Africans of the Windward district are the most barbarous musicians +that can be conceived. + +They have also a kind of guitar, formed from the calabash, which they call +_kilara_. Some of these are of an enormous size, and the musician performs +upon it by placing himself on the ground, and putting the _kilara_ between +his thighs; he performs on it with both his hands, in a manner similar to +the playing on the harp in this country. + +They have another instrument of a very complicated construction, about two +feet deep, four feet long, and eighteen inches wide, which they call +_balafau_. It is constructed by parallel intervals, covered with bits of +hard polished wood, so as to give each a different tone, and are connected +by cords of catgut fastened at each extremity of the instrument. The +musician strikes these pieces of wood with knobbed sticks covered with +skin, which produces a most detestable jargon of confused noise. + +Jugglers and buffoons are very common, and are the constant attendants of +the courts of Negro kings and princes, upon whom they lavish the most +extravagant eulogiums, and abject flattery. These jesters are also the +panders of concupiscense; they are astrologers, musicians, and poets, and +are well received every where, and live by public contribution. + +SECTION V. + +_Concluding Observations._ + +It has already been observed that cotton and indigo are indigenous to the +Windward Coast of Africa. Tobacco grows in every direction, likewise cocoa, +coffee, and aromatic plants would no doubt succeed by cultivation. A trade +in raw hides might be carried on to a great extent; and the articles of +wax, gold, ivory, emery, dyes, &c. might be greatly increased. Substances +for making soap are to be found in great abundance; cattle, poultry, +different kinds of game, fish, and various animals, fruits, and roots, +abound, affording a great variety of the necessaries and luxuries of life: +and European art and industry are only wanting to introduce the extensive +culture of the sugar cane. The warmth and nature of the climate are +peculiarly adapted to the maturing this plant, and there are many +situations from Cape Verde to Cape Palmas, where this valuable production +might undoubtedly be raised to great amount and perfection. + +In addition to the woods I have already named, there are many others for +building, viz. _todso, worsmore,_ and a fine yellow wood, called +_barzilla_, the _black_ and the _white mangrove_, boxwood of a superior +quality, _conta_, a remarkable fine wood for building, and various kinds of +mahogany, of a beautiful colour, and large dimensions. + +It has also been observed in the previous section, that one of the musical +instruments used by the Africans of the Windward Coast, named by them +_kilara_, is formed from the calabash, a pumpkin which grows from the size +of a goblet to that of a moderate sized tub, and serves every purpose +almost of household utensils. + +They divide this pumpkin into two hemispheres, with the utmost accuracy, +and it is excavated by pouring boiling water inside, to soften the pulp. +The inside is cleaned with great neatness, and they execute upon the +outside various designs and paintings, both fanciful and eccentric, such as +birds, beasts, serpents, alligators, &c. + +In fine, the objects of commerce and enjoyment in this country are, +comparatively speaking, inexhaustible; and this is a part of the world +which England has hitherto strangely neglected, because its mysteries are +unknown. It only requires the happy influence of civilization, agriculture, +and natural commerce, to surprize and enrich those, who humanely and wisely +interfere to procure these blessings to its inhabitants. + +The system of establishment to attain these important ends to our commerce, +and to the bewildered African, should be skilfully planned, and wisely +adapted to the _present condition_ of the country, for the _hasty +conclusion of the abolition of the slave trade never can, in its present +state, meet the views and objects of rational humanity_. Is the United +Kingdom, at this crisis, when the enormous power of our adversary has shut +the door of commerce against us in every direction where his influence and +dictates command, to abandon Africa, so abundant and versatile in its +natural productions and resources, to contingencies, and to the grasp of +other nations? Forbid it, humanity, and forbid it, wise policy! Let civil +laws, religion, and morality, exercise their influence in behalf of the +Negro race, whom barbarism has subjected to our dominion, and let the +beneficence and wisdom of Government devise a system of agriculture and +commercial operation, upon the maritime situations of Africa, as the most +effectual means to freedom of intercourse with its interior. + +The operations of impracticable theories and misguided zeal have +accomplished an unqualified abolition of the slave trade, which I am +persuaded will be highly injurious to the commercial and manufacturing +interests of our country; and is a measure which humanity will have deeply +to deplore, while in its tendency it is pernicious to the African, and +auspicious to the views of France. + +Without doubt the ability and energies of the _present administration_ will +be directed to avert these calamities; and amidst the _important +diliberations_ which now occupy their attention, the condition of Africa, +the wealth derivable from so important a quarter of the earth, and the +relations involved with it, will not be overlooked by them. + + + A VOCABULARY + OF THE + LANGUAGE OF THE PRINCIPAL NATIONS OF THE + WINDWARD COAST OF AFRICA. + + + + +|ENGLISH |JOLLIFF |SOOSEE |TIMMANEE +|------------|-------------------|--------------------|---------------- +|One |Ben |Kiring |Pen +|Two |Yar |Faring |Prung +|Three |Niet |Shooking |Tisas +|Four |Nianett |Nari |Pánlee +|Five |Gurum |Shooli |Tomát +|Six |Gurum ben |Shinie |Rókin +|Seven |Gurum yar |Shulifiring |Dayring +|Eight |Gurum Niet |Shulimashukúng |Daysas +|Nine |Gurum Niant |Shulimang |Daynga +|Ten |Fue |Fooang |Tofot +|Twenty |Nill |Mahwinia |Tofot Marung +|Thirty |Fanever |Tongashukúng |Tofot Masas +|Forty |Nianett Fue |Tonganani |Tofot Manlu +|Fifty |Guaum Fue |Tongashulang |Tofot Tomat +|Sixty |Gurum ben Fue |Tongashini |Tofot Rokin +|Seventy |Gurum yar Fue |Tongashulifiring |Tofot Dayring +|Eighty |Gurum Niet Fue |Tongashulimashakung |Tofot Daysas +|Ninety |Gurum Nianet Fue |Tongashulimanáne |Tofot Danygah +|One Hundred |Temer |Kimé |Tofot Tofot +|I | |Emtang |Eto or Munga +|Thou | |Etang |Moota or Moonga +|He | |Atang |Otto or Ken +|It | |Atang |Ree +|We | |Mackutang |Sitta or Shang +|Ye | |Wotang |Angsha +|They | |Etang |Angna +|God |Tallah | | +|The Devil |Ghiné | | +|Heaven |Assaman | | + + + + + +|ENGLISH |JOLLIFF |SOOSEE |MANDINGO +|------------|--------------------|---------------|------------------ +|The Sun |Burham Safara |Shuge |Teelee +|The Moon |Burham Safara Lion |Kige |Koro +|Gold |Ourous | |Sanoo +|Father |Bail |Taffe |Fa +|My Father |Samma Bail | | +|Mother |De |Inga |Ba +|My Mother |Samma De | | +|Man |Gour | |Mo or Fato +|Woman |Diguén | |Mooséa +|Brother |Rak Gour |Tarakunjia |Ba Ding Kea +|My Brother |Samma Rak Gour | | +|Sister |Rak Diguén |Magine |Ba Ding Mooséa +|My Sister |Samma Rak Diguén | | +|Head |Bop |Hung Hungji |Roon +|My Head |Samma Bop | | +|Tongue |Lamin |Ning Ningje |Ning +|Mouth |Guémin |Dé |Da +|Nose |Bauane |Nieue |Nung +|Bread |Bourou | |Munko +|Water |Dock | |Gee +|Teeth |Guené | | +|Bowels |Bouthet | | +|Belly |Birr | |Kono +|Fingers |Baram | |Boalla Ronding +|Arm |Lokoó | |Boalla Same for hand. +|Hair |Cayor | | +|The Beard |Jekim |Habe de Habe |Bora +|White |Toulha é |Fihe |Qui +|Black |Jolof |Foro |Fing +|Good |Bachna |Fang |Bettie +|Bad |Bahout |Niaake |Jox + + + + + +|ENGLISH |SOOSEE +|-------------------------------------|------------------------ +|Elephant |Siti +|Camelion |Kolungji +|Horse |Shuoe +|Cow |Ninkgegine +|Goat |Shee +|Sheep |Juké +|Leopard |Shuko she +|Alligator |Shonge +|Parrot |Kalle +|Shark |Sark +|Honey |Kume +|White ant, termite, &c. |Bugabuge +|(or Bug a bug) | +|The Sea |Baa +|Earth |Bohe +|Knife |Finé +|Shirt |Doma +|Trowsers |Wangtanji +|Brass pan |Tang kue +|House |Bankhi +|Door |Dé nadé +|Day |Hi +|Night |Qué +|Health |Maié langfe +|Sickness |Fura +|Pain |Whondi, Whona fe +|Love |Whuli +|Hatred |Niaahú +|Road |Kirá +|Idle |Kobi +|Hot |Furi, furihe +|Cold |Himbeli +|What are you doing? |Emung she ra falama? +|Tornado |Tuliakbegle +|Which way are you going? |Esigama mung kirara +|To trade |Sera Shofe +|Make haste |Arâ bafe mafurì +|To Kill |Fuka fe +|To Quarrel |Gerì shofe +|To Sing |Shige sháfe +|To beat the drum |Fare mokafé +|Have you done? |Ebanta gei? +|Are you afraid? |Egahama? +|He is not yet gone |A mú siga sending +|Stand still |Tife ira hara +|Run |Gee fé +|Leap, or Jump |Tubang fe +|Have you slept well? |Eheo keefang? +|Do you understand Soosee? |Esusee whi mema? +|I am hungry |Kaame em shukuma +|Eat |Dong +|Let us go |Woem hasiga +|Will you go with me? |Esigáma em fokhera +|I have no money |Náfuli muna embe +|How much do you want? |E' wama ierekong +|Sit down |Dokha +|How do you do |E'mung keé? +|Very well |Em melang hekeefang +|Give me some rice? |Málungdundundifeemma +|Here |Be +|What is your name? |Ehili mungkee? +|I love you |Efanghe emma +|If you want rice I will give you some|Ha ewama málunghong eminda fuma éma +|Let us go together. |Meekufiring ha siga + + + + + +|ENGLISH |JOLLIFF +|----------------------------|----------------------- +|Goat |Phas +|Sheep |Zedre +|Wolf |Bouki +|Elephant |Guìé +|Ox |Nack +|Fish |Guienn +|Horse |Ghénapp +|Butter |Dión +|Milk |Sán +|Tiger |Shaglé +|Iron |Vina +|Millet |Doughoul +|Quiver |Smagalla +|To dance |Faik +|To sing |Ouhai +|To-day |Thei +|To-morrow |Elleck, or Mek +|Yesterday |Demb +|A tree |Garallun +|To drink |Nán +|To eat |Leck ou leckamm +|She is remarkably handsome |Sama rafitnalóll +|Good day |Dhiarakio +|Good day Sir |Dhiarakio-Samba +|Good night |Fhanandiam +|Come here? |Kahihfie +|Yes |Ouaa +|No |Dhiett +|How do you do? |Dhya mésa? +|Very well |Dhya medal +|Buy |Ghuyendé +|Sell |Ghuyal +|Take |Diapol +|I will |Benguéna +|I thank you |Guérum nalá +|A bar of Iron |Baravin +|What did you say? |Loung a houche +|Can you speak Joliff? |DÃgenga Jolliff +|How much did that cost? |Niatar ladiar? +|Give me |Maniman +|I love you from my heart |Sépenata tié somo koll + + + + + +|ENGLISH |TEMMANEE |BULLOM +|-----------------------|------------------------|---------------- +|How do you do? |Currea |Lemmoó +|I return you service, |Bá |Bá +|or salute | | +|Are you well? |Too pay |Appay wa? +|Very well |Tai ó tai |Pay chin lin +|What is your name? |Gnay see mooa? |Illil é móa? +|Give me a little rice |Song mee pilla pittun |Knamée opillay +| | |otayk +|Yes |A |A +|No |Deh |Be +|Is your father at home?|Pa ka moo oyá roshaytee?|Appa moway lore +| | |ko killayée +|He is |Oéeree |Way lorre +|What do you want? |Ko nyaymaee? |Yeng yayma? +|Why do you do so? |Ko sum kingyotteeay |Yaywum layngalla +|I beg your pardon |A marree moo |Lum marra mó + + + + + +|ENGLISH |TEMMANEK |BULLOM +|--------------------|--------------------|----------------------- +|I love you |Ee bóter moo |A marra mo +|Let me alone |Tuoy mee |Y'nfolmee +|Let me go |Teer amee |Y'mmelmee +|Sit down |Yeera |Y'nchal +|I am hungry |Durabang mee |Nrik mi a me +|Shut the door |Kanta kayraree |Ingkunta fong fólootay +|Will you go with me?|Yintoo kó pey a mee?|Mo mee ko day ree +|Where are you going?|Ray mó kóay. |Lomo koa +|Here |Unno |Kakée or ha +|Forward |Kihdee |Ebol +|Backward |Rarung |Wayling +|To-day |Taynung |Eenang +|To-morrow |Anéenang |Beng +|Sometimes |Olokko ollon |Lokkó poom +|And |Ray |Na +|Good bye |Mang peearó |Heepeeáró + + + +** The foregoing Vocabulary, and imperfect number of words, may serve to +give some idea of a part of the languages on the Windward Coast of Africa. +From those accidents to which the traveller is continually exposed, I have +unfortunately lost what I am persuaded was a very accurate vocabulary of +the Jolliff, Foulah, Maudingo, Soosee, Bullom, and Temmanee tongues, which +I had arranged under the correction of a very intelligent trader long +resident upon the Windward Coast. Owing to this misfortune I have been +obliged to refer to scattered memoranda only, which I know to correspond +correctly with the document I allude to. As the Foulah and Mandingo nations +are of most consequence in attempts at civilization, I have to regret +exceedingly that I have not been able to give the languages of those +nations more at large. + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Observations Upon The Windward Coast +Of Africa, by Joseph Corry + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 12539 *** diff --git a/12539-h/12539-h.htm b/12539-h/12539-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..20bc879 --- /dev/null +++ b/12539-h/12539-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,5123 @@ +<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN"> +<html> + <head> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8"> + <title> + The Project Gutenberg eBook of Observations Upon The Windward Coast Of Africa, by Joseph Corry. + </title> + <style type="text/css"> +<!-- + LI,P { margin-top: .75em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: .75em; + } + H1,H2,H3,H4,H5,H6 { + text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ + } + HR { width: 33%; + margin-top: 1em; + margin-bottom: 1em; + } + BODY{margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; + } + .topnote {margin-left: 5%; margin-right: 5%; } + .linenum {position: absolute; top: auto; left: 4%;} /* poetry number */ + .note {margin-left: 2em; margin-right: 2em; margin-bottom: 1em;} /* footnote */ + .blkquot {margin-left: 4em; margin-right: 4em;} /* block indent */ + .pagenum {position: absolute; left: 92%; font-size: smaller;} /* page numbers */ + .sidenote {width: 20%; margin-bottom: 1em; padding-left: 2em; font-size: smaller; float: right; clear: right;} + + .poem {margin-left:10%; margin-right:10%; text-align: left;} + .poem .stanza {margin: 1em 0em 1em 0em;} + .poem p {margin: 0; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;} + .poem p.i2 {margin-left: 2em;} + .poem p.i4 {margin-left: 4em;} + .poem .caesura {vertical-align: -200%;} + // --> + </style> + </head> +<body> +<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 12539 ***</div> + +<h1>Observations upon the windward coast of Africa</h1> + +<h2>by JOSEPH CORRY.</h2> + + +<center> +<a href=images/001.jpg><img border=0 alt=001 +src=images/001_th.jpg></a><br>[Illustration: A MANDINGO CHIEF, and his +HEADMAN, in their COSTUME, & other NATIVES] +</center> + + +<center><br> +OBSERVATIONS<br> +UPON THE<br> +WINDWARD COAST OF AFRICA,<br> +THE<br> +RELIGION, CHARACTER, CUSTOMS, &c.<br> +OF THE NATIVES;<br> +WITH A<br> +SYSTEM UPON WHICH THEY MAY BE CIVILIZED,<br> +AND A<br> +KNOWLEDGE ATTAINED OF THE INTERIOR OF THIS EXTRAORDINARY<br> +QUARTER OF THE GLOBE;<br> +AND UPON<br> +THE NATURAL AND COMMERCIAL RESOURCES OF THE COUNTRY;<br> +MADE IN THE YEARS 1805 AND 1806.<br> +<br> +BY JOSEPH CORRY.<br> +<br> +WITH AN APPENDIX,<br> +CONTAINING<br> +A LETTER TO LORD HOWICK, ON THE MOST SIMPLE AND EFFECTUAL<br> +MEANS OF ABOLISHING THE SLAVE TRADE.<br> +</center><br> + +<center><br> +LONDON:<br> +PRINTED FOR G. AND W. NICOL, BOOKSELLERS TO HIS MAJESTY, PALL-MALL;<br> +AND JAMES ASPERNE, CORNHILL.<br> +BY W. BULMER AND CO. CLEVELAND ROW, ST. JAMES'S<br> +1807.<br> +</center><br> +<hr> + +<center><br> +TO<br> +THE RIGHT HONOURABLE<br> +LORD VISCOUNT CASTLEREAGH,<br> +ONE OF HIS MAJESTY'S PRINCIPAL SECRETARIES<br> +OF STATE FOR FOREIGN AFFAIRS.<br> +</center><br> + +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">MY LORD,</span><br> + +<p>Hightly flattered by your Lordship's polite condescension, in permitting +me to inscribe to you the following Pages, I return your Lordship my most +unfeigned thanks.</p> + +<p>If they meet your Lordship's approbation, and that of a discerning +Public; or if they tend in the most remote degree to excite more +intelligent efforts and more active enterprise on behalf of the +unenlightened African, or to augment the Commerce of the United Kingdom +with a Country, now in danger of falling into the hands of our Enemies, I +shall feel an ample reward for the risques and dangers to which I have been +exposed in collecting these Fragments; while the occasion gives me the +opportunity of subscribing myself,</p> + +<center><br> +With grateful acknowledgments,<br> +Your Lordship's<br> +Most obedient, and devoted humble Servant,<br> +</center><br> + +<span style="margin-left: 20em;">JOSEPH CORRY,</span><br> +<hr> +<H2><a name=PREFACE>PREFACE.</a></H2> + +<p>With becoming deference, I shall endeavour to illustrate in the +following pages, the observations I have personally made upon the Coast of +Africa, and to give the information I have obtained from an extended circle +of Chiefs, and native Tribes, relative to its Inhabitants, their Religion, +Habits and Customs, the natural productions and commercial resources, &c. +and attempt to delineate the most eligible grounds upon which the condition +of the African may be effectually improved, and our commercial relations be +preserved with that important quarter of the globe.</p> + +<p>Though deeply impressed with the importance of the subject, and my own +incompetency, I obtrude myself upon Public notice, governed by this +reflection, that I am stimulated by an ardent zeal for the prosperity of my +Country, and am animated by a philanthropic solicitude for the effectual +manumission of the African, from his enslaved customs, his superstitious +idolatry, and for the enlargement of his intellectual powers.</p> + +<p>I shall guard against the sacrifice of truth to abstracted principles; +and if in the most remote degree, I excite the interference of my +countrymen in behalf of the African, extend our commerce, and enlarge the +circle of civilized and Christian Society, I shall think that I have +neither travelled, nor written in vain.</p> + +<p>Africa is a country hitherto but little known; those in general who have +visited it, have been either inadequate to research, or have been absorbed +in the immediate attainment of gain; moreover the European Traveller in +that country has to contend with the combined influence of the native +jealousies of its inhabitants, their hereditary barbarism, obstinate +ferocity, and above all, an uncongenial climate. To surmount these +difficulties, commerce is the most certain medium to inspire its Chiefs and +Natives with confidence, and to obtain a facility of intercourse with the +Interior country. Sanctioned by that pursuit, I have been favoured with +information from a large circle of Native Chiefs, and Tribes, relative to +their customs, their habits, localities, predilections, and the existing +state of society.</p> + +<p>The impressions, which ocular demonstration, and personal investigation +occasion upon visiting this uncultivated country, are so different from +those excited in any other district of the globe, and so powerful, that the +mind is naturally led to meditation on the means of its improvement and on +the mode by which it may be ameliorated, and the sources of commerce be +essentially enlarged.</p> + +<p>Europe, which merits the highest rank for philanthropy, has hitherto +strangely neglected this country; nor have the attempts of individuals and +benevolent Societies been productive in endeavouring to diffuse the +influence of civilization, and to desseminate the seeds of science +throughout these extensive regions.</p> + +<p>Trusting that my endeavours to befriend the Natives of Africa, and to +extend the Commerce of my Country, will shield me from the severity of +animadversion, and of criticism, I shall proceed in my relation.</p> + +<span style="margin-left: 20em;">J. CORRY.</span><br> +<i>September 1st, 1807</i>.<br> + +<hr> +<H2><a name=CONTENTS>CONTENTS.</a></H2> + +<p><a href="#CHAPTER_I">CHAPTER I.</a></p> + +<p>Remarks from the Period of Embarkation at St. Helen's, till the Arrival +at Sierra Leone—Sketches of the Land seen in the Passage—its Bearings and +Distance—Observations upon the Bay and Entrance of Sierra Leone River, +&c.</p> + +<p><a href="#CHAPTER_II">CHAPTER II.</a></p> + +<p>The Author leaves Bance Island.—Visits the Colony of Sierra +Leone.—Delivers his introductory Letter to the late Governor Day, from +whom he experiences a most hospitable Reception.—Cursory Remarks upon that +Colony, and upon the Islands of Banana.—His Embarkation for the Island of +Goree, &c.</p> + +<p><a href="#CHAPTER_III">CHAPTER III.</a></p> + +<p>An Excursion to the main Land.—Visit to King Marraboo.—Anecdotes of +this Chief.—Another Excursion, accompanied by Mr. Hamilton.—A shooting +Party, acccompanied by Marraboo's Son, Alexander, and other +Chiefs.—Reflections upon Information obtained from them, and at Goree, +relative to this Part of the Coast.—Embark in his Majesty's Sloop of War +the Eugenia, which convoyed Mr. Mungo Park in the Brig Crescent, to the +River Gambia, on his late Mission to the Interior of Africa.—Observations +on that Subject.—Arrive in Porto Praya Bay, in the Island of St. +Jago.—Some Remarks upon that Island.—Departure from thence to England, +and safe Arrival at Portsmouth</p> + +<p><a href="#CHAPTER_IV">CHAPTER IV.</a></p> + +<p>The Author proceeds to London.—Re-embarks for Africa.—Arrives at +Madeira.—Observations on that Island.—Prosecution of the Voyage, and +Arrival in the Sierra Leone River, &c.</p> + +<p><a href="#CHAPTER_V">CHAPTER V.</a></p> + +<p>Observations upon the natural Productions of the River Sierra +Leone.—The Author explores its Branches, interior to Bance Island, the +Rochelle, and the Port Logo.—The Manners and Customs of the +Inhabitants.—Their Commerce.—The Author's safe Arrival at Miffare</p> + +<p><a href="#CHAPTER_VI">CHAPTER VI.</a></p> + +<p>Return to Bance Island.—General Observations on the Commerce, Religion, +Customs, and Character of the Natives upon the Windward Coast.—An Account +of the requisite Merchandize for Trade, the best Mode of introducing +natural Commerce and Civilization into Africa, &c.</p> + +<p><a href="#CHAPTER_VII">CHAPTER VII.</a></p> + +<p>The Mode of Trial by <i>Ordeal</i> and <i>Red Water</i> in Africa.—The +Wars of its Inhabitants.—The State of Barbarism and Slavery +considered.—The Condition of the Africans will not be improved by a late +Legislative Act, without further Interference.—Salutary Measures must be +adopted towards the Negroes in the Colonies.—A System suggested to abolish +Slavery in Africa, and the Slave Trade in general, and to enlarge the +intellectual Powers of its Inhabitants.—The proper Positions to effect an +Opening to the Interior of Africa, and to display to the World its manifold +Resources</p> + +<p><a href="#CHAPTER_VIII">CHAPTER VIII.</a></p> + +<p>What the Anthor conceives should be the System of Establishment to make +effectual the Operations from Cape Verd to Cape Palmas.—Reasons for +subjecting the Whole to one Superior and controlling Administration.—The +Situations, in his Estimation, where principal Depots may be established, +and auxiliary Factories may be placed, &c. &c.</p> + +<p><a href="#CHAPTER_IX">CHAPTER IX.</a></p> + +<p>The Author embarks in the Ship Minerva.—Proceeds to the Rio +Pongo.—Disquisitions thereon.—Further Observations on the Inhabitants, +obtained from Natives of various Nations met with there.—The Isles de +Loss.—Returns to Sierra Leone, &c.</p> + +<p><a href="#CHAPTER_X">CHAPTER X.</a></p> + +<p>The Author visits the Isles de Loss.—Remarks on those Islands.—Touches +at the River Scarcies.—Arrives at the Colony of Sierra Leone.—Embarks for +the West Indies—Lands at the Colony of Demerary.—Some Observations on the +Productions of that Colony, Berbice, and Essequibo, and on the Importance +of Dutch Guiana to the United Kingdom in a political and commercial +View</p> + +<p><a href="#CHAPTER_XI">CHAPTER XI.</a></p> + +<p>Conclusion</p> + +<p><a href="#APPENDIX">APPENDIX.</a></p> + +<p><a href="#No_I">No. I.</a></p> + +<p>Letter to the Right Honourable Lord Viscount Howick, His Majesty's late +principal Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs, on the Eve of his +Lordship introducing the late Bill into Parliament for the Abolition of the +Slave Trade; shewing at one View the most simple and ready Mode of +gradually and effectually abolishing the Slave Trade, and eradicating +Slavery</p> + +<p><a href="#No_II">No. II.</a></p> + +<p>Letter to the Right Honourable the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, +referred to in the foregoing Letter to Lord Howick</p> + +<p><a href="#No_III">No. III.</a></p> + +<p>Of the Purrah</p> + +<p>Of the <i>Termite</i>, <i>Termes</i>, or <i>Bug a Bug</i>, as it is +called by the Natives upon the Windward Coast of Africa</p> + +<p>Of the Camelion</p> + +<p>On the Interment of the Dead</p> + +<p>On the Amusements, Musical Instruments, &c. of the Africans</p> + +<p>Concluding Observations</p> + +<p>Vocabulary of the Languages of the principal Nations of the Windward +Coast of Africa</p> + +<hr> +<H2><a name=DIRECTIONS_TO_THE_BINDER>DIRECTIONS TO THE BINDER.</a></H2> + +<p>Mandingo Chief and his Head Man, with other Natives in their Costume, to +face the Title Page.</p> + +<p>Sketch of the Windward Coast of Africa to face page 1</p> + +<p>Palma</p> + +<p>The Colony of Sierra Leone and Islands of Banana</p> + +<p>Island of Goree</p> + +<p>Porto Praya, Island of St. Jago</p> + +<p>Island of Fogo, Cape Verd</p> + +<p>Island of St. Jago, and Paps of Cape Verd</p> + +<p>Bance Island, River Sierra Leone</p> + +<p>In illustration of the above Plates, it may be satisfactory to the +Reader to explain that the Turban, in the Frontispiece, distinguishes the +<i>Mandingo Chief</i>; and that the Cap, which adorns the <i>Head Man</i>, +is embroidered by <i>themselves</i> on scarlet cloth procured from +Europeans in trade, and is executed with great ingenuity.</p> + +<p>The narrow stripe of blue cloth suspended behind from the covering which +adorns one of the figures in the back ground, distinguishes a female in the +state of virginity.</p> + +<p>This distinguishing mark of <i>virgin purity</i> is uniformly removed +upon entering into the matrimonial state, and is called by the Timmauees +<i>Tintanjey</i>.</p> + +<p>In the Plate of Bance Island, River Sierra Leone, page 33, is a correct +representation of the <i>Pullam</i> tree, described in page 38, as bearing +a species of silk cotton, or ether down, and is much revered by the +natives, who consider it in many instances as their <i>Fetish</i>.</p> + + +<p>* * * * *</p> + + +<hr> +<H2><a name=ERRATA>ERRATA.</a></H2> +<br> + +<table> +<tr><td>Page 54,</td><td>line 8,</td><td>for <i>gallunas</i> read <i>galhinas</i>.</td></tr> +<tr><td>62</td><td>2,</td><td>for <i>is derived from the African gris-gris</i>, read,</td></tr> +<tr><td></td><td></td><td><i>is the expression from which the African gris-gris is</i></td></tr> +<tr><td></td><td></td><td><i>derived</i>.</td></tr> +<tr><td>64</td><td>20,</td><td>for <i>lugras</i>, read <i>lugars</i>.</td></tr> +<tr><td>92</td><td>6,</td><td>for <i>bungra</i>, read <i>bangra</i>.</td></tr> +</table> + + +<hr> + +<center> +<a href=images/014.png><img border=0 alt=014 +src=images/014_th.jpg></a><br>[Illustration: SKETCH OF THE WINDWARD COAST +OF AFRICA] +</center> + +<hr> + +<center><br> +OBSERVATIONS<br> +UPON THE<br> +WINDWARD COAST OF AFRICA.<br> +</center><br> + + + +<hr> +<H1><a name=CHAPTER_I>CHAPTER I.</a></H1> + + + + +<p><i>Remarks from the Period of my Embarkation at St. Helens, to my +arrival at Sierra Leone—Sketches of the Land discovered in the +Passage—its Bearings and Distance—with Observations upon the Bay and +Entrance of Sierra Leone River, &c.</i></p> + +<p>Previous to my arrival and landing in the river Sierra Leone, on the 6th +of April, 1805, I shall notice my passage, and display the sketches I have +taken of the land we fell in with, its bearings and distance, for the +observation of the mariner, which from position and prominence to the +Atlantic, claim his most serious attention in running down the coast of +Africa to-windward.<a name="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1"><sup>[1]</sup></a></p> + +<p>On the 9th March, 1805, I sailed from St. Helens in the ship Thames, +commanded by James Welsh, in company with a fleet of ships bound to the +East Indies, under convoy of his Majesty's ship Indostan. We had a +favourable run down Channel; but, after making to the westward of Scilly, +a heavy gale of wind separated the Thames from the convoy, which we never +afterwards regained, and were therefore obliged, at all hazards, to +proceed for our destination upon the coast of Africa.</p> + +<p>Nothing interesting occurred during a prosperous and quick passage, +until the high land of Sierra Leone appeared in view on the evening of the +5th of April. We came to an anchor outside the Capes, and weighed the next +morning, steering our course for the river.</p> + +<p>The space between Leopard's Island, situated to the north, and Cape +Sierra Leone to the south, forms the entrance into the river Sierra Leone; +being in latitude 8° 30" N. and in 13° 43" W. long. and is computed about +seven geographical leagues distant. The river empties itself immediately +into the ocean; and its level banks to the north are covered with +impervious forests, while those to the south exhibit the romantic scenery +of an extended chain of lofty mountains and hills, clothed and ornamented +with foliage of the most luxuriant nature, exciting the highest admiration +in those who are susceptible of the impressions which the sublime works of +the creation never fail to inspire.</p> + +<p>Upon entering the bay, the eye is attracted by an extensive river, +circumscribed by the foregoing outline, and exhibiting upon its banks an +assemblage of the productions of nature, vegetating in their native purity. +This view is animated by the prospect of the colony of Sierra Leone, and +the masts of vessels and craft which commerce, and a safe anchorage, +encourage to assemble before it, and by numerous natives paddling with +great dexterity in their canoes.</p> +<br> + +<center> +<a href=images/017.jpg><img border=0 alt=017 +src=images/017_th.jpg></a><br>[Illustration: PALMA bearing S. by W. distant +about 8 leagues from A Published Aug 1 1807 by G & W Nicol] +</center> + + +<p>As I shall have occasion to speak hereafter of the importance of this +bay in a commercial and agricultural point of view, I shall not at present +enter into farther details; but only suggest that I consider it as a +position from whence active enterprize may perform its operations +throughout an extensive district, and derive the most important +advantages.</p> + +<p>At two. P.M. came to an anchor before the fort and settlement of Bance +Island, which we saluted with seven guns. The river is navigable up to this +island for ships, and small craft proceed a number of miles higher, on the +branches of the Port Logo and Rochell. It is obscured from the view by the +island of Tasso, until bearing round a point of that island called Tasso +Point; the eye is then attracted by a regular fortification, and even an +elegant range of buildings and store-houses, which, with great propriety, +may be considered as one of the most desirable positions upon the windward +coast of Africa, to command the interior commerce of the countries +bordering upon the river Sierra Leone and its branches, and that of the +rivers to the northward, the Scarcies and adjoining rivers, the Rio Pongo, +with the Isles De Loss, Rio Grande, Rio Noonez, &c. and those which fall +into the sea from Cape Sierra Leone to Cape Palmas.</p> + +<p>Tasso is an island adjoining, about a mile and a half distant, of some +extent, and a remarkably fertile soil. It is attached to Bance Island; +bearing cotton of a very good staple, and is capable of producing any +tropical production. Considerable labour and expense have been applied to +introduce cultivation into this island, and to exemplify to the African the +advantages derivable from his native soil, by the civil arts of life; while +under a still more scientific superintendency, it would become a possession +of very considerable consequence in an agricultural view.</p> + +<p>Bance Island is little more than a barren rock, of about three-quarters +of a mile in extent. The entrance into the fort is through a folding door +or gate, over which, throughout the night, a watch is constantly placed. +The expectations excited by its external appearance were by no means +lessened by a view of the interior of the fort, in which were assembled +several traders, and chiefs, with their attendants. I was much the object +of their curiosity and attention; and in their manner, all came up to me, +to <i>give me service </i>, as expressed in the idiom of their language. +This ceremony is simply performed by touching the fingers, accompanied in +the Timminy language by the usual obeisance of <i>Currea </i>, or, how do +you do? The reply to this is <i>Ba</i>, which means good, I return you +service.</p> + +<p>The Grumittas, or free black people, are assembled outside the fort, in +houses or huts built with mud, upon the general construction in Africa, +which usually is an oblong square, raised little more than eight feet; or a +circle of the same height, over which is thrown a roof of bamboo, or other +thatch, supported by posts about five or six feet asunder, forming a +canopy, which shelters them from the rays of the sun, or the inclemency of +the weather, and affords a shade under which they retire in the extreme +heat of the day, where they repose in their hammocks, or rest upon their +mats. This group of buildings or huts is denominated Adam's Town, from the +black chief who presides over these labouring people. Their numbers may be +estimated at about 600. Originally they were slaves to the proprietors of +this island; but from a very humane and wise policy, they have been endowed +with certain privileges, which rescue them from an absolute state of +slavery, and prevents their being sold as slaves, unless they are convicted +by the laws and customs of their country of some crime or delinquency.</p> + +<p>Among these people are artizans in various branches, viz. smiths, +carpenters, joiners, masons, &c. under the superintendance of Europeans in +their different trades, who for ingenuity and adroitness in their +respective capacities, would deserve the approbation even of the +connoisseur in these arts; while in many other instances they discover a +genius of the most intelligent character, and a decency in their dress and +manners distinguished from that among the surrounding tribes; which is the +never failing consequence of the influence of the arts of civilized society +over barbarous customs and habits.</p> + +<a name="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1">[1]</a><div class="note"><p> Perhaps it will be considered by the reader a singular +phenomenon, that the upper region of <i>Palma</i> was covered with +snow.</p></div> + + + + +<hr> +<H1><a name=CHAPTER_II>CHAPTER II.</a></H1> + + + + +<p><i>The Author leaves Bance Island—Visits the Colony of Sierra +Leone—Delivers his introductory Letter to the late Governor Day, from whom +he experiences a most hospitable Reception—Cursory Remarks upon that +Colony and upon the Islands of Bannana—His Embarkation for the Island of +Goree, &c.</i></p> + +<p>From the 6th to the 8td April, I remained at Bance Island, and having +determined to embark for Europe, where circumstances required me by the +first conveyance, I visited the colony of Sierra Leone, then under the +government of the late Capt. William Day, of the Royal Navy, to whom I had +a recommendatory letter. His reception of me was in conformity with his +general character, distinguished for urbanity and polite hospitality; and +such were the impressions upon my mind, both from observation and report, +of the skill and penetration he possessed to fulfil the arduous duties of +his station, that they never will be effaced, and I shall ever retain the +highest respect for his memory. He was then occupied in forming plans of +defence in the colony; and had he lived, I am firmly persuaded, from +subsequent observation and enquiry, that it would in a short period have +opposed to an enemy a formidable resistance, and that it might have been +speedily rescued from that anarchy and confusion which distracted councils, +and want of unanimity had occasioned.</p> + +<p>The colony of Sierra Leone was established by the 31st of George III. +avowedly in opposition to the Slave Trade, and for the purpose of +augmenting more natural commerce, and introducing civilization among the +natives of Africa. The grant is from the 1st of July, 1791, and to continue +for the space of 31 years. During the late war with France, in September +1794, it was nearly destroyed by a French squadron, consisting of one +two-decker, several armed ships and brigs, in the whole about seven or +eight sail; they appeared in the offing on the evening of the 27th, and in +the morning of the 28th at day-light commenced their operations; the result +of which was, that the colony was ravaged by the enemy, and many houses +burnt and destroyed. This squadron was piloted into the river by two +Americans, one of whom was a Captain Neville. The pecuniary loss to the +colony by this attack has been estimated at about 40,000<i>l</i>. +independant of buildings destroyed, valued at first cost, about +15,000<i>l</i>. more. Bance Island experienced the same fate, and suffered +in pecuniary loss upwards of 20,000<i>l</i>.</p> + +<p>In addition to this calamity, the Sierra Leone Company had to lament the +inefficiency of its superintendants, their want of unanimity, and various +other disasters and unforeseen difficulties which operated to augment the +charge in their establishment, and diminish its funds; and with every +deference to the benevolent undertakers, whose motives merit the highest +approbation of every enlightened mind, I would observe, they have likewise +to regret their misconception of the eligible grounds upon which so +beneficent a plan is to be productive of operative influence; but as at a +future stage of my narrative, I shall be enabled from more minute +investigation to enter at large upon this interesting subject, I shall for +the present dismiss it.</p> + +<p>On the 28th of April I embarked on board his Majesty's sloop of war the +Lark, then upon the windward station; having looked into the river for +Governor Day's dispatches, &c.; and I cannot omit this opportunity of +expressing the obligations conferred upon me by Captain Langford, the +commander, and his officers, which invariably continued during my being on +board. At day-light we weighed, and were saluted by one of the forts with +15 guns, which were returned; nothing of moment occurred during our +passage, except being once overtaken with a tornado: this is a hurricane +which prevails upon the windward coast of Africa about this season of the +year, preceding the rainy season; and it is impossible to convey by +description an adequate idea of this explosion of the elements. It +announces its approach by a small white cloud scarcely discernible, which +with incredible velocity overspreads the atmosphere, and envelopes the +affrighted mariner in a vortex of lightning, thunder, torrents of rain, &c. +exhibiting nature in one universal uproar. It is necessary when this cloud +appears at sea, to take in all sail instantaneously, and bear away right +before the furious assailant, which soon expends its awful and tremendous +violence, and nature is again hushed into peaceful tranquillity.</p> + +<p>To the southward of Cape Sierra Leone, and in about 8 degrees north +latitude, lie the Islands of Bannana, in a direction from east to west. To +the west of Great Bannana, lie the smaller islands, which are little more +than barren rocks. The soil of the Bannanas is very fertile, and the +climate healthy, from their proximity to the sea, and the refreshing +breezes which it bestows upon them. They take their name from a fruit so +denominated; and are situated in the most eligible position for commerce, +upon the Windward Coast; combining, from their fertility of soil and +situation, great agricultural advantages, and peculiar salubrity of air. At +present the sovereignty of these islands is contended for by two chiefs, of +considerable intelligence and enterprise, named Caulker and Cleveland. +Caulker appears to be the legitimate sovereign; Cleveland's forefathers +having been established by Caulker's as <i>trade men</i>, on their account; +and by intermarriage with that family their claims are founded. James +Cleveland, who married king Caulker's sister, first began the war by his +Grummettas, on the Bannanas, attacking Caulker's people on the Plantains, +The result of this violence was, that Charles Caulker was killed in battle; +and his body mangled and cut into pieces, in the most savage and cruel +manner. In 1798, Stephen Caulker, the present chief, commenced war again, +to revenge his brother's death; and the barbarous contest has continued +ever since, marked with ferocious cruelty, and with various success to the +respective claimants. Soon after its renewal, James Cleveland died, and was +succeeded by his nephew, William, who has received his education in +England, and is a chief of no inconsiderable acquirements and talent. +Stephen Caulker has succeeded in obtaining from him the possession of the +Bannanas and Plantains, and at present sways authority over them; still, +however, exposed to the enterprising genius and intrigues of Cleveland. +</p> +<br> + +<center> +<a href=images/024.jpg><img border=0 alt=024 +src=images/024_th.jpg></a><br>[Illustration: THE COLONY of SIERRA LEONE A +bearing S.W. by E. distant 3 MILES, and the BANANAS bearing S.W. by W +distant 3 leagues. Published Aug 1 1807 by G & W Nicol] +</center> + + +<p>Were it practicable to reconcile these contentions, and procure these +valuable islands, they would form most eligible auxiliaries and depots to +any establishment which Government might form upon this part of the coast, +and be of the utmost importance; or in the event of their being +unattainable, factories might be established at Kittim and Boom, both under +Caulker's influence and protection. I have had frequent intercourse with +this chief, and I found him of a very superior understanding, and acute +intellect, to the generality of his countrymen; and if his jealousies could +be allayed by the emollients of superior advantage, his intelligence and +co-operation would much facilitate any operations in this quarter.</p> + +<p>On the 10th of April we arrived at Goree Roads, and came to an anchor +nearly opposite to that part of the island of Goree, called the Point de +Nore, and opening Cape Emanuel, which is by much the most eligible position +in the event of tornados, as a ship may always run in safety to sea, +between the island and the main land.</p> + +<p>Goree is a small island, or barren rock, little more than three quarters +of a mile in length, and a few hundred yards in breadth. Its native +inhabitants are of colour, and a spurious progeny from the French; for whom +they still retain a great predilection. The number of what are called +principal inhabitants, does not exceed 50 males, with their families, +dependants, and slaves; which may in the aggregate amount to frequently +between three and four thousand souls. Their principal trade is in slaves, +of whom they annually export about two thousand, with a small proportion of +dead cargo, chiefly procured from Gambia.</p> + +<p>Religion, of any description, is little practised or understood among +them; although it is evident that Christianity has been introduced into the +island, as there are traces of a catholic chapel and a monastery remaining. +Custom here, as in all the maritime countries of Africa, is the governing +principle of all their actions, added to an avaricious thirst for gain, and +the indulgence of sensual gratification. The ceremony of marriage is too +offensive for delicacy even to reflect upon, much less for me to narrate: +it does not attach to the union any sacred obligation, the bond being +broken at the moment of caprice in either party, or predilection in favour +of any other object. As a preliminary to this disgusting ceremony, a "big +dinner," in their phraseology, and a few presents to the lady, first +obtaining her and her parents' consent, is all that is requisite. When the +happy pair are united, the dependants and slaves of the parties, and their +respective connexions, who are assembled round the buildings or huts, send +forth a most savage yell of exclamation, accompanied by their barbarous +music, gesticulations, and clapping of the hands, in unison with their song +of triumph. This dance is continued with unabating vociferation during the +night, and perhaps for a week, or greater length of time, bearing, however, +due reference to the rank and consequence of the connubial pair.</p> + +<p>The following morning the bride issues forth, with solemn pace and slow, +in grand procession, preceded by her most intimate female associate during +her virgin state, reclining upon her shoulder with both hands; who, in +consequence, is considered as the next matrimonial candidate. They are +immediately surrounded by a concourse of attendants, accompanied by music, +dancing, and other wild expressions of joy; and in a body proceed to visit +her circle of acquaintance and friends, who are always expected to +contribute some offering of congratulation. This ceremony is the concluding +one on the part of the bride; while the dancing and music are continued by +the attendants as long as they can procure any thing either to eat or +drink.</p> +<br> + +<center> +<a href=images/028.jpg><img border=0 alt=028 +src=images/028_th.jpg></a><br>[Illustration: ISLAND OF GOREE Published Aug +1 1807 by G & W Nicol] +</center> + + +<p>In a military point of view, in its present condition, the island of +Goree is far from being a place of strength; but in a commercial, it is of +considerable importance; and, therefore, ought to claim the attention of +Government, if it attaches any consequence towards a commerce with the +coast of Africa. In a military character, its batteries and guns are in an +extremely bad condition; and it is completely a position where a piccaroon +privateer could check every supply from the continent, upon which it +depends for fresh provisions and water, and might carry on hostile +operations without the range of its batteries; which, by consequence, +always exposes this garrison to contingencies and casual supply. In a +commercial consideration, I view it as a possession of the greatest moment; +from its contiguity to the French settlement of the Senegal, and to a large +portion of that valuable district, which they claim and influence; from +whence accurate information may be obtained of their operations; and a +check may issue, to maintain our ascendency to leeward; besides a rallying +point for our outward bound ships, to ascertain the enemy's force upon the +coast; the deviation from a direct course to leeward being very +unimportant: moreover, it might be an eligible depot for the trade of that +infinitely valuable river, the Gambia, which, for variety of natural +productions, is perhaps not to be excelled by any other in the world; only +requiring the hand of industry and intelligence to fertilize and +unfold.</p> + +<p>The garrison of Goree has seldom more than 150 effective men to defend +it, of the royal African regiment, commanded by Major Lloyd;<a name="FNanchor_1_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_2"><sup>[1]</sup></a> and this +force is very fluctuating, from sickness and the diseases of the climate; +in general, however, it is tolerably healthy, and its physical department +is superintended by a gentleman (Doctor Heddle) of very considerable +intelligence and ability in his profession. The hospitality of Major Lloyd, +and the officers of his corps, to their countrymen, is distinguished by +liberality; and during my stay in that island, which was upwards of three +weeks, I have to acknowledge their polite attentions. I was the inmate of +Mr. Hamilton, in the commissariat department, whose peculiar friendship and +kind offices have made a most indelible impression upon my mind.</p> + +<p>The view from the roads, some of the buildings near the shore being of +stone, and upon even an elegant and convenient construction, is calculated +to raise expectation upon approaching it, which is considerably +lessened[**Transcriber's note: "lessoned" must be a typesetting error.] +upon a nearer view; the streets being extremely narrow, and the huts of the +natives huddled together without regularity or system. The inhabitants are +governed in their local customs and capacities by a native mayor, and his +advisers; but, of course, under the control of the commandant of the +garrison; and this privilege is a mere matter of form and courtesy, which a +lenient authority permits.</p> + +<a name="Footnote_1_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_2">[1]</a><div class="note"><p> Now Lieutenant Colonel Lloyd.</p></div> + + + + +<hr> +<H1><a name=CHAPTER_III>CHAPTER III.</a></H1> + + + + +<p><i>An Excursion to the Main Land.—Visit to King Marraboo.—Anecdotes of +this Chief.—Another Excursion, accompanied by Mr. Hamilton.—A shooting +Party, accompanied by Marraboo's Son, Alexander, and other +Chiefs.—Reflections upon Information obtained from them, relative to this +Part of the Coast, and at Goree.—Embark in his Majesty's Sloop of War, the +Eugenie, which convoyed Mr. Mungo Park in the Brig Crescent, to the River +Gambia, on his late Mission to the Interior of Africa.—Observations on +that Subject.—Arrive in Porto Praya Bay, in the Island of St. Jago.—Some +Remarks upon that Island.—Departure from thence to England, and safe +arrival at Portsmouth.</i></p> + + +<p>A few days after the arrival of the Lark at the island of Goree, +accompanied by a party of the officers of that ship, I made an excursion +upon the main land: we set out from the ship early in the morning, for +Decar, the capital of a chief or king, named Marraboo: we arrived before he +had moved abroad, and, after going through winding narrow paths or streets, +we were conducted by one of his people to his palace, a wretched hovel, +built with mud, and thatched with bamboo. In our way to this miserable +habitation of royalty, a confused sound of voices issued forth from almost +every hut we passed, which originated from their inhabitants vociferating +their morning orisons to Allah and Mahomet; their religion being an +heterogeneous system of Mahomedanism, associated with superstitious +idolatry, incantations, and charms.</p> + +<p>We found <i>Marraboo's head men</i> and priests assembled before his +majesty's dwelling <i>to give him service</i>, and to offer him their +morning's salutation. At length he made his appearance, followed by several +of the officers of the palace, carrying skins of wild beasts, and mats, +which upon enquiry, I found to have composed the royal bed, spread out upon +a little hurdle, erected about a foot and a half high, interwoven with +bamboo canes: my attention was much engaged with this novel sight; and I +could not contemplate the venerable old man, surrounded by his chiefs, +without conceiving I beheld one of the patriarchs of old, in their +primaeval state. After his chiefs had paid their obeisance, I presumed, +accompanied by my friends, to approach the royal presence; when he +discovered us among the group, his countenance underwent an entire change, +expressive of reserve and surprise, exclaiming, "What did I want with +Marraboo?" With great humility I replied, "I be Englishman, come from King +George's country, his brother, to give him service." He replied with +quickness, "I be very glad to see you, what service have you brought?" I +was aware of this tax upon my civility, and replied, that "I make him good +service;" which in plain English was, that I shall make you a good present. +He then conversed with more freedom relative to his country, government, +localities, and religion; I suggested to him that "I understood he was a +powerful king, and a great warrior, had many wives and children, that he +ruled over much people, and a fine country, that I hear he get much head, +that he far pass any of his enemies, and that I be very happy to look so +great a king:" or, in other words, that I understood he was a great +general, was very rich, was more wise than all his contemporary chiefs, and +that it gave me much pleasure to pay my respects to so great a prince: but +the former idiom of language is best adapted to convey meaning to the +interpreters of the chiefs of Africa, in whatever tongue it may be spoken; +being that which they use in translation; and when they are addressed in +this phraseology, they convey their ideas with more perspicuity and literal +interpretation. But to return to the dialogue.</p> + +<p>Marraboo.—"I be very glad to look you for that, I have much trouble all +my life—great deal of war—my son some time since killed in battle." This +was accompanied by such a melancholy expression of countenance, that could +not fail to excite my compassion, I therefore avoided touching more on the +subject of his wars; only observing, "that I hear he be too much for all +his enemies, and that he build great wall that keep his town and people +safe."</p> + +<p>Marraboo.—"The king of Darnel's people cannot pass that—they all be +killed—they come there sometimes, but always go back again." My curiosity +was excited to obtain the history of this <i>enchanted wall</i>, which on +my approach to the town, I had discovered to be apparently little more than +three or four feet high, and situated within the verge of their wells of +fresh water, open at several places, and without any defence.</p> + +<p>Upon enquiry, I found that Marraboo had been early in life <i>fetish +man</i>, or high priest, to Damel, king of Cayor, a very powerful chief +bordering upon the Senegal, and that he had artfully contrived to gain over +to his interest a number of adherents, who, in process of time, became +formidable, rebelled against their lawful sovereign, and took possession of +that part of the country towards Cape Verd: to strengthen their position, +Marraboo caused a wall to be erected, commencing from the sea shore, and +extending towards the Cape; which, in the estimation of the natives, and in +consequence of his sacerdotal office, incantations, and charms, was +rendered invulnerable: the hypocritical priest well knew the natural +disposition of his countrymen, and the effect his exorcisms would produce +upon their minds; which operated so effectually, that when his army was +beaten by the powerful Damel, they uniformly retired behind their exorcised +heap of stones, which in a moment stopt their enemy's career, and struck +them with such dread, that they immediately retired to their country, +leaving their impotent enemy in quiet possession of his usurped territory; +whom otherwise they might have annihilated with the greatest facility. +Superstition is a delusion very prevalent in Africa; and its powerful +influence upon the human mind is forcibly illustrated by the foregoing +instance.</p> + +<p>When I enquired of Marraboo the nature of his belief in a supreme being, +his observations were confused and perplexed, having no perspicuous +conception of his attributes or perfections, but an indistinct combination +of incomprehensibility; and to sum up the whole, he remarked, "that he pass +all men, and was not born of woman."</p> + +<p>A few days after the abovementioned visit, I made another excursion to +the main land, accompanied by Mr. Hamilton, and one of the principal +inhabitants of Goree, named Martin. We landed at a small native town, +called after the island, Goree Town. When we came on shore, we were +immediately surrounded by natives, who surveyed us with great curiosity and +attention. We had prepared ourselves with fowling-pieces and shooting +equipage, with the view of penetrating into the interior country: in +pursuance of our design, we dispatched a messenger to <i>Decar</i>, with a +request that we might be supplied with attendants and horses: our +solicitation was promptly complied with; and Alexander, Marraboo's son, +speedily made his appearance with two horses, attended by several chiefs +and head men. Our cavalcade made a most grotesque exhibition; Mr. Hamilton +and myself being on horseback, followed by Alexander and his attendants on +foot, in their native accoutrements and shooting apparatus. My seat was not +the most easy, neither was my horse very correct in his paces; the saddle +being scarcely long enough to admit me, with a projection behind, intended +as a security from falling backwards: the stirrups were formed of a thin +plate of iron, about three or four inches broad, and so small, that I could +scarcely squeeze my feet into them. In our progress we killed several +birds, of a species unknown in Europe, and of a most beautiful plumage; one +of which, a little larger than the partridge in England, was armed with a +sharp dart or weapon projecting from the pinion, as if designed by nature +to operate as a guard against its enemies. Our associates rendered us every +friendly attention, and evinced great anxiety to contribute to our sport; +and proved themselves skilful and expert marksmen. The country abounded +with a multiplicity of trees and plants, which would no doubt have amply +rewarded the researches of the botanist, and scientific investigator. The +fatigue I had undergone, and the oppressive heat of the sun, so completely +overpowered me, by the time of our return to Goree Town, that I felt myself +attacked by a violent fever; in this situation I was attended with every +tenderness and solicitude by the females; some bringing me a calabash of +milk, others spreading me a mat to repose upon, and all uniting in kind +offices: it is from them alone that man derives his highest happiness in +this life; and in all situations to which he is exposed, they are the +assuasive agents by whom his sorrows are soothed, his sufferings +alleviated, and his griefs subdued; while compassion is their prominent +characteristic, and sympathy a leading principle of their minds.</p> + +<p>The attention of these kind beings, and the affectionate offices of my +friend, operating upon a naturally good constitution, soon enabled me to +overcome the disease, and to return again to Goree. During the remaining +part of my stay there, I was vigilantly employed in procuring every +information relative to this part of the coast, and through the +intelligence of several of the native inhabitants and traders, I am enabled +to submit the following remarks.</p> + +<p>To elucidate, with perspicuity, the deep impression I feel of the +importance of this district of the Windward Coast, in obtaining a facility +of intercourse with the interior, combining such a variety of local +advantage, by which our ascendency may be preserved, and our commercial +relations improved, is an undertaking, the difficulties of which I duly +appreciate; and I am aware that I have to combat many prejudices and +grounds of opposition to the system I conceive to be practicable, to +develope the various stores of wealth with which Africa abounds, and to +improve the intellectual faculties of its native inhabitants.</p> + +<p>That a situation so highly valuable as the Senegal, and its contiguous +auxiliary, the island of Goree, has been so overlooked, is certainly a +subject of great surprise, and deep regret. While visionary and +impracticable efforts have been resorted to penetrate into the interior of +Africa, we have strangely neglected the maritime situations, which abound +with multifarious objects of commerce, and valuable productions, inviting +our interference to extricate them from their dormant state; and the +consideration apparently has been overlooked, that the barbarism of the +natives on the frontiers must first be subdued by enlightened example, +before the path of research can be opened to the interior.</p> + +<p>We have several recent occurrences to lament, where the most +enterprising efforts have failed, through the inherent jealousies of the +natives, and their ferocious character; and, therefore, it is expedient to +commence experiments in the maritime countries, as the most eligible points +from whence operative influence is to make its progress, civilization +display itself among the inhabitants, and a facility of intercourse be +attained with the interior. So long as this powerful barrier remains in its +present condition, it will continue unexplored; and our intercourse with +its more improved tribes must remain obscured, by the forcible opposition +of the frontier; and these immense regions, with their abundant natural +resources, continue unknown to the civilized world. The inhabitants of the +sea coast are always more fierce and savage than those more remote and +insular: all travellers and voyagers, who have visited mankind in their +barbarous state, must substantiate this fact: and the history of nations +and states clearly demonstrates, that the never-failing influence of +commerce and agriculture united, has emanated from the frontiers, and +progressively spread their blessings into the interior countries. View our +own now envied greatness, and the condition in which our forefathers lived, +absorbed in idolatry and ignorance, and it will unquestionably appear, that +our exalted state of being has arisen from the introduction of the +civilized arts of life, the commerce which our local situation has invited +to our shores, and our agricultural industry.</p> + +<p>Within the district now in contemplation, flows the river of +<i>Senegal</i>, with its valuable <i>gum trade</i>; the <i>Gambia</i>, +abounding with innumerable objects of commerce, such as indigo, and a great +variety of plants for staining, of peculiar properties, timber, wax, ivory, +&c.; <i>the Rio Grande, Rio Noonez, Rio Pongo,</i> &c. all greatly +productive, and their borders inhabited by the Jolliffs, the Foollahs, the +Susees, the Mandingos, and other inferior nations, and communicating, as is +now generally believed, with the river Niger, which introduces us to the +interior of this great continent; the whole presenting an animating +prospect to the distinguished enterprise of our country.</p> + +<p>That these advantages should be neglected, is, as I have before said, +subject of deep regret, and are the objects which I would entreat my +countrymen to contemplate, as the most eligible to attain a knowledge of +this important quarter of the globe, and to introduce civilization among +its numerous inhabitants; by which means, our enemies will be excluded from +that emolument and acquirement, which we supinely overlook and abandon to +contingencies.</p> + +<p>The island of Goree lies between the French settlement of the Senegal +and the river Gambia, and therefore is a very appropriate local station to +aid in forming a general system of operation from Cape Verd to Cape Palmas, +subject to one administration and control. The administrative authority, I +would recommend to be established in the river of Sierra Leone, as a +central situation, from whence evolution is to proceed with requisite +facility, and a ready intercourse be maintained throughout the whole of the +Windward Coast; and as intermediate situations, I would propose the rivers +Gambia, Rio Noonez, Rio Pongo, and Isles de Loss, to the northward; and to +the southward, the Bannana Islands, the Galinhas, Bassau, John's River, &c. +to Cape Palmas; or such of them as would be found, upon investigation, best +calculated to promote the resources of this extensive coast.</p> + +<p>The supreme jurisdiction in the river Sierra Leone, with auxiliaries +established to influence the trade of the foregoing rivers, form the +outlines of my plan, to be supported by an adequate military force, and +organized upon principles which I have hereafter to explain in the course +of my narrative.</p> + +<p>Having an opportunity to sail for England, in his Majesty's sloop of war +the Eugenie, commanded by Charles Webb, Esq. as it was uncertain at what +time the Lark was to proceed, I availed myself of that officer's kind +permission to embark, accompanied by surgeon Thomas Burrowes and his +lady.</p> + +<p>The Eugenie had been dispatched for England to convoy the Crescent +transport brig, with Mr. Mungo Park on board, to the river Gambia, upon his +late mission to the interior of Africa. Captain Webb did not conceive it +prudent, nor indeed was it expedient, to proceed higher up the river than +Jillifree, and dispatched the Crescent as far as Kaya, about 150 miles from +the capes of the river, where Mr. Park landed with his associates, viz. his +surgeon, botanist, draftsman, and about 40 soldiers, commanded by an +officer obtained from the royal African corps at Goree, by the order of +Government.</p> + +<p>Nothing could have been more injudicious than attempting this ardoous +undertaking, with any force assuming a military appearance. The natives of +Africa are extremely jealous of white men, savage and ferocious in their +manners, and in the utmost degree tenacious of any encroachment upon their +country. This unhappy mistake may deprive the world of the researches of +this intelligent and persevering traveller, who certainly merits the esteem +of his country, and who, it is to be feared, may fall a victim to a +misconceived plan, and mistaken procedure.</p> +<br> + +<center> +<a href=images/040.jpg><img border=0 alt=040 +src=images/040_th.jpg></a><br>[Illustration: PORTO PRAYA, ISLAND OF ST JAGO +Published Aug 1 1807 by G & W Nicol] +</center> + + +<p>Although anxious to embark, yet I could not take my departure without +sensibly feeling and expressing my sense of obligation for the many +attentions I had to acknowledge from the officers of the garrison, and also +to several of the native inhabitants, among whom were Peppin, Martin, St. +John, and others; the latter, I am sorry to say, was in a bad state of +health; I am much indebted to him for his judicious remarks, and very +intelligent observations. This native received his education in France, and +has acquired a very superior intelligence relative to the present condition +of his country.</p> + +<p>Accompanied by Mr. Hamilton, my hospitable and friendly host, and +several of the officers of the Lark, I embarked on board the Eugenie, on +the 31st of May, and arrived in Porto Praya Bay on the 3d of June.</p> + +<p>The town of Porto Praya is situated upon a plain, forming a height from +the sea, level with the fort, and is a most wretched place, with a very +weak and vulnerable fortification. In the roads there is good anchorage for +shipping, opposite to Quail island, and for smaller vessels nearer the +shore. It has a governmenthouse, a catholic chapel, a market place, and +jail, built with stone; and is now the residence of the government of the +island of St. Jago, subject to the crown of Portugul. Formerly the +governor's place of abode was at the town of St. Jago, upon the opposite +side of the island: his title is that of governor-general of the islands, +comprehending Mayo, Fogo, &c.</p> + +<p>Mayo is remarkable for its salt, which is cast on shore by the rollers +or heavy seas, which at certain periods prevail, and run uncommonly high. +The heat of the sun operating upon the saline particles, produces the salt, +which the inhabitants collect in heaps for sale. We anchored at Mayo for +some hours, and a number of vessels were lying in the roads, chiefly +Americans, taking in this article; it is a very rocky and dangerous +anchorage; we, however, found the traders were willing to undergo the +risque, from the cheapness of the commodity they were in quest of.</p> + +<p>It is a most sorry place, with scarce a vestige of vegetation upon its +surface, and its inhabitants apparently live in the greatest misery. They +are governed by a black man, subject to the administration of St. Jago.</p> + +<p>The military force of St. Jago is by no means either formidable in +numbers or discipline, and exhibits a most complete picture of despicable +wretchedness.</p> + +<p>A black officer, of the name of Vincent, conducted as to the governor, +who received us with politeness, and gave us an invitation to dinner. The +town and garrison were quite in a state of activity and bustle; an officer +of high rank and long residence among them had just paid the debt of +nature, and his body was laid in state in the chapel, in all his +paraphernalia. The greater part of the monks from the monastery of St. Jago +were assembled upon the occasion, to sing requiems for his soul; and the +scene was truly solemn and impressive. We met these ministers of religion +at dinner, but how changed from that gravity of demeanor which +distinguished them in their acts of external worship. The governor's +excellent Madeira was taken in the most genuine spirit of devotion, +accompanied by fervent exclamations upon its excellent qualities. Upon +perceiving this holy fervency in the pious fraternity, we plied them +closely, and frequently joined them in flowing bumpers, until their ardour +began to sink into brutal stupidity, and the morning's hymns were changed +into revelry and bacchanalian roar.</p> +<br> + +<center> +<a href=images/043.jpg><img border=0 alt=043 +src=images/043_th.jpg></a><br>[Illustration: POGO, bearing N. by W. +distance about 4 leagues from B Published Aug 1 1807 by G & W Nicol] +</center> +<br> + +<center> +<a href=images/044.jpg><img border=0 alt=044 +src=images/044_th.jpg></a><br>[Illustration: 3 ISLAND of ST. IAGO, distance +6 Miles. 4. PAPS of CAPE VERDE, bearing at C, <i>N.N.E.</i> and at D, +<i>S.E.</i> by <i>S.</i> distance 3 leagues. Published Aug 1 1807 by G & W +Nicol] +</center> + + +<p>This, however, was rather a tax upon the governor's hospitality, as it +deprived him of his <i>Ciesta</i>, a common practice with him, almost +immediately after the cloth is withdrawn. When we came ashore the next +morning, we were highly entertained with the anecdotes related to us of the +pranks performed during the night by the convivial priests, many of whom +were unable to fulfil the duties of the altar at the usual hour of +prayer.</p> + +<p>The natives of St. Jago, with those of the neighbouring islands, are +mostly black, or of a mixed colour, very encroaching in their manners, and +much addicted to knavery. The island is extremely rocky and uneven, but the +vallies are fertile. The inhabitants raise cotton, and they have several +sugar works; the quantity they raise of both, does not, however, much +exceed their own consumption, but there is no doubt that it might be +considerably augmented by industry, even for exportation; but the natives +are indolent, and extremely listless in their habits. The only inducement +in touching at this island is, to procure water and provisions: the former +is good, and the latter consists in hogs, turkeys, ducks, poultry, &c. but +frequently, after they have been visited by a fleet, a great scarcity +prevails.</p> + +<p>The commodities the natives require as payment may be purchased at Rag +Fair, being extremely partial to cast off wearing apparel of every +description.</p> + +<p>The men are extremely slovenly in their dress; but the women are rather +more correct and uniform, those of the better condition being habited in +muslin, and their hair ornamented, and neatly plaited.</p> + +<p>They manufacture a narrow cloth of silk and cotton, which is in high +estimation among them, and its exportation is prohibited, except to +Portugal. Considerable ingenuity is displayed in this manufacture, which is +performed in a loom, differing very little from that used by the ruder +inhabitants of the coast of Africa, and similar to the garter loom in +England. They have horses and mules well adapted to their roads and rugged +paths, which they ride most furiously, particularly the military, who +advance at full speed to a stone wall, or the side of a house, merely to +shew their dexterity in halting.</p> + +<p>After being detained here for several days in taking in stock and +provisions, we again weighed with the Crescent brig, and a sloop from +Gambia, bound to London, under our convoy, and after a tedious and very +anxious passage, arrived at Portsmouth on the 4th of August. We were +detained under quarantine until the return of post from London, and +proceeded on shore the following day. There is something in <i>natale +solum</i> which charms the soul after a period of absence, and operates so +powerfully, as to fill it with indescribable sensations and delight. Every +object and scene appeals so forcibly to the senses, enraptures the eye, and +so sweetly attunes the mind, as to place this feeling among even the +extacies of our nature, and; the most refined we are capable of +enjoying.</p> + +<p>It is this love of his country which stimulates man to the noblest +deeds; and, leaving all other considerations, only obedient to its call, +separates him from his most tender connections, and makes him risque his +life in its defence.</p> + +"Where'er we roam, whatever realms to see,<br> +Our hearts untravell'd fondly turn to thee;<br> +Still to our country turn, with ceaseless pain,<br> +And drag, at each remove, a lengthening chain."<br> +<span style="margin-left: 20em;">GOLDSMITH.</span><br> + + + +<hr> +<H1><a name=CHAPTER_IV>CHAPTER IV.</a></H1> + + + + +<p><i>The Author proceeds to London.—Re-embarks for Africa.—Arrives at +Madeira.—Observations on that Island.—Prosecution of the Voyage, and +Arrival in the Sierra Leone River, &c.</i></p> + + +<p>Our happy arrival was celebrated at the Crown inn, where Captain Webb +and his first Lieutenant (Younger) joined us; we dined together, and +separated with mutual kind wishes. The next morning Mr. Burrowes and myself +proceeded to London, and were once more rapidly conducted into its busy +scene.</p> + +<p>Without even time to greet my friends, I again left town for Portsmouth, +to commit myself to the watery element, and revisit the shores. I had so +recently left; and on the 22d of September sailed, in the ship Andersons, +from St. Helen's, under convoy of the Arab post sloop of war, commanded by +Keith Maxwell, Esq. and the Favorite sloop of war, by John Davie, Esq.</p> + +<p>We anchored in Funchal Roads, island of Madeira, on Saturday the lath of +October, without experiencing any remarkable event.</p> + +<p>When approaching the island of Madeira, it exhibits to the eye a +strikingly beautiful and picturesque view. The uneven surface of the hills, +covered with plantations of vines, and various kinds of herbage, with the +exception of partial spots burnt up by the heat of the sun in the dry +season, displays a singular perspective, which, with the beautiful +appearance of the interspersed villas, churches, and monasteries, form an +arrangement both exquisite and delightful.</p> + +<p>After being visited by the boat of health, our party proceeded on shore +in the evening; and upon being made known to the house of Messrs. Murdoch, +Masterton, and Co. were politely invited to breakfast the ensuing +morning.</p> + +<p>At our appearance, in conformity with our appointment, we were +introduced into the breakfast parlour by Mr. Wardrope, one of the acting +partners, to his lady and sister, who received us with engaging civilities +and attention.</p> + +<p>After our friendly meal, we perambulated the town of Funchal, and +attended chapel, which so far from being a house of devotion, presented to +our contemplation a rendezvous for intrigue and the retirement of a +conversazione.</p> + +<p>Funchiale or Funchal, takes its derivation from Funcho, signifying in +the Portuguese language, Fennel; it is situated at the bottom of a bay, and +may be considered disproportionate to the island, in extent and appearance, +as it is ill built, and the streets remarkably narrow and ill paved. The +churches are decorated with ornaments, and pictures of images and saints, +most wretchedly executed: I understand, however, that a much better taste +is displayed in the convents, more especially that of the Franciscans, in +which is a small chapel, exhibiting the disgusting view of human skulls and +thigh bones lining its walls. The thigh bones form a cross, and the skulls +are placed in each of the four angles.</p> + +<p>Nature has been very bountiful in her favours to Madeira; its soil is +rich and various, and its climate is salubrious and versatile; it abounds +in natural productions, and only requires the fostering hand of the +husbandman to produce every necessary, and almost luxury, of life. Walnuts, +chesnuts, and apples, flourish in the hills, almost spontaneously, and +guanas, mangoes, and bananas, in wild exuberance. At the country residence +of James Gordon, Esq. where we dined, and met with the most distinguished +hospitality, I saw a most surprising instance of rapid growth; a shoot of +the tree, called the Limbriera Royal, started up, perpendicularly from the +trunk, to a height of nearly <i>thirty feet</i>, from the month of January +to that of October: it is, however, to be observed, that the branches were +lopped off, and it is supposed the juices of the trunk communicated to this +stem.</p> + +<p>Corn of a very good quality grows in this island, and might be produced +in plenty, but the inhabitants, whose characteristic is idleness, neglect +its culture, and thereby subject themselves to the necessity of relying +upon foreign imports. Their beef, mutton, and pork, are remarkably good, +and they have game in the mountains.</p> + +<p>By order of the late governor, in 1800, the population was taken from +the confessional returns, and, as he was himself a bishop, it may be +inferred that the number stated below, which I procured from official +authority, is accurate, viz.</p> +<br> + +<table> +<tr><td>Number confessed,</td><td>95,000</td></tr> +<tr><td>And, calculating 1 in 10 for children under 5</td><td></td></tr> +<tr><td>years of age, the first period of their confession,</td><td></td></tr> +<tr><td>is equal to</td><td>3,500</td></tr> +<tr><td></td><td>————</td></tr> +<tr><td>Making in the aggregate the number of souls to be</td><td>104,500</td></tr> +<tr><td></td><td>————</td></tr> +</table> + + +<p>15,000 of whom were computed to be inhabitants of the town of +Funchal.</p> + +<p>The government consists of a governor, appointed by the crown of +Portugal, the island being in its possession, styled governor of the +islands, and: is perfectly arbitrary; Funchal is his residence; he has a +council under him consisting of 24 members, whose president is the second +judge for the time being. All officers are nominated by the crown, and the +holders continue only for three years, at the end of which new nominations +take place.</p> + +<p>The only article of trade is wine, of which they export about 12,000 +pipes annually, and consume from 6 to 8,000 pipes in the island, +comprehending <i>small wine</i>, &c. being in the whole about 20,000 pipes. +It is made by pressing out the juice from the grape in a wooden vessel, +proportioned in size to the quantity they intend to make. The wine-pressers +take off their jackets and stockings, get into the vessel, and with their +elbows and feet press as much of the juice as is practicable by this +operation; the stalks are then tied together and pressed, under a square +piece of wood, by a lever with a stone fastened to the end of it; the wine +is brought from the country in goat skins, by men and women on their +heads.</p> + +<p>The roads are so steep and roughly paved, that neither carriages nor +carts are in use, the substitute is a palanquin for the former, and for the +latter a hollow log of wood, drawn by oxen, upon which the wine vessels or +other loads are placed; they, however, have horses and mules very well +adapted to their roads.</p> + +<p>The revenue to the crown of Portugal is estimated from 20 to +30,000<i>l</i>. annually, clear of all expenses; but the balance of trade +is greatly against them, all their specie being drawn to Lisbon.</p> + +<p>The currency of the island is Spanish, and consists of dollars, +converted by their laws, into milreas of 5<i>s</i>. 6<i>d</i>. pistareens, +value about is. bits, about 6<i>d</i>. and half bits, about 3<i>d</i>.</p> + +<p>It is disadvantageous to take up money at Madeira upon bills, as they +make payment in dollars, which they value at a milrea. Sometimes they may, +from particular circumstances, give a premium, but it is seldom equal to +the discount.</p> + +<p>On the morning of the 18th I bad my grateful adieu to Madeira, and the +friendly roof of Mr. Wardrope and his united family, the abode of conjugal +affection, friendship, and hospitable reception; and at 2 P.M. went on +board. We weighed anchor under the protection of the Favorite, the Arab +continuing at her moorings. Passing between the grand Canary and close in +with Teneriffe, we arrived safe at the island of Goree, on the 5th of +November, without our commodore, under convoy of the Favorite. The ship +Andersons having freight to deliver at that island, we continued there +until the 12th, and again resumed our voyage; arriving, without accident; +at Bance Island, which I have previously noticed, on the 22d of the same +month.</p> + +<p>My residence was confined to this island, and in excursions through the +neighbouring countries, until the 4th June, 1806, during which period, and +from a general intercourse with an extended circle of chiefs, natives, and +traders, I have been enabled to decide upon the situation of this country, +and to form a conclusive opinion of the condition and character of its +inhabitants, and its commercial resources.</p> + +<p>From these sources of intelligence, and the example this island +displayed, with observations upon the conduct and management of the Sierra +Leone company, I first conceived the system that I shall hereafter +delineate, upon which the African's condition may be effectually improved, +and his hereditary slavery exterminated.</p> +<br> + +<center> +<a href=images/053.jpg><img border=0 alt=053 +src=images/053_th.jpg></a><br>[Illustration: BANCE ISLAND, in the RIVER +SIERRA LEONE. <i>The Property of John & Alexander Anderson Esq. +London.</i>] +</center> + + +<p>The natives of Africa resident upon the coast, are uniformly considered +as more ferocious and barbarous in their customs and manners, less numerous +in population, and more encroaching and deceitful, than those of the +interior. While this formidable opposition exists, and the baneful +influence of barbarous habits continues, it is in vain to look to +remuneration by natural commerce, or to the establishment of civilization. +The African's barbarity must be first here assailed, and the infinite +resources upon the coasts and maritime rivers must be developed to his +view, to pre-dispose him to refine his condition, and adopt the civilized +habits of life; nor is there any site which I have met with upon the +Windward Coast of Africa, more calculated to promote this beneficent +undertaking, than the island of Bance, from its locality of situation, +being central to windward and leeward operation, commanding an extensive +circle of interior country, and being long established in the estimation of +the natives of an extended district. But more of this subject in order.</p> + + + +<hr> +<H1><a name=CHAPTER_V>CHAPTER V.</a></H1> + + + + +<p><i>Observations upon the natural Productions of the River Sierra +Leone.—The Author explores its Branches, interior to Bance Island, the +Rochelle, and the Port Logo.—The Manners and Customs of the +Inhabitants.—Their Commerce.—The Author's safe Arrival at +Miffaré.</i></p> + + +<p>The river of Sierra Leone abounds in fish, and the spermaceti whale has +been occasionally found, the shark, the porpoise, eels, mackarel, mullet, +snappers, yellow tails, cavillos, tenpounders, &c. with the +<i>mannittee</i>, a singular mass of shapeless flesh, having much the taste +of beef, which the natives greatly esteem, and consider the highest +offering they can make.</p> + +<p>Oysters are found in great abundance, attached to the interwoven twigs +and branches of the mangrove tree, to which they closely cling; and of the +zoophytes, there is the common sponge to be found upon the sandy beaches, +on the Boolum shore, and would, no doubt, bring a high price in +England.</p> + +<p>The domestic animals of the adjoining countries are, cattle, sheep, +goats, hogs, ducks, turkeys, and fowls, very inferior, however, to those in +Europe. The beasts of prey are, lions, leopards, hyaenas, wild hogs in +abundance, squirrels, monkies, antelopes, &c. with the civet and zibeth +cats, and a most extraordinary animal, which is found in the mountains of +Sierra Leone and the adjacent countries, a species of the ourang outang, +called by the natives, japanzee, or chimpanzee, but approaching nearer to +the anatomy of the human frame than the former animal. Some of them, when +full grown, are nearly 5 feet, and are covered with black hair, long on the +back, but thin and short upon the belly and breast; the face is quite bare, +and the hands and feet resemble those of man; its countenance is remarkably +grave, similar to that of an old black man, but its ears are straight; it +will imitate a human being in walking, sleeping, eating, and drinking, and +is certainly a most singular production of nature. Surgeon Burrowes, whom I +have before mentioned, had a perfect skeleton of this animal, which, he +assured me, differed in nothing from the human, but in the spine, it being +curved. This skeleton, I believe, now forms a part of the collection of +Surgeon-General Keate.</p> + +<p>There are, of amphibious animals, green turtles, hawk's bills, and +loggerheads, which grow to a great size, some of them weighing several +hundred pounds, land turtles, fresh water turtles, alligators, extremely +voracious, and from 12 to 15 feet in length; they will swallow a man, and +at Bance Island Negro boys have been frequently snatched up by them from +the shore. There are also a variety of the lizard species, with the guava, +and camelion.</p> + +<p>Snakes abound; some of them haunt the houses in the night, and prowl +about for poultry, of which they are fond; some have been found to measure +above 18 feet; and I have the skin of one in my possession, killed when +young, above 10 feet in length; it is that species which swallows its prey +entire; several animals were found in their perfect state when the one I +allude to was cut open.</p> + +<p>There is also an immense animal of this species, which I have heard the +natives of this part of the coast describe, often exceeding 30 feet in +length, and of an enormous size; it is variegated with spots, and the head +is covered with scales; the tongue is fleshy and forked, but its bite is +not poisonous; it is to be found in the recesses of caves and thickets, +from whence it suddenly darts upon its victim, whether man or beast: it +frequently chooses a tree, from which it reconnoitres the passing objects, +supporting itself by the tail, which it twists round the trunk or branches: +when it seizes animals, especially those of the larger kind, such as lions, +tigers, &c. it dexterously, and almost instantaneously twists itself round +their bodies in several folds, and by its powerful muscular force, breaks +the bones, and bruises it in all its parts; when this is done it covers the +animal with a viscous cohesive saliva, by licking its body with its tongue, +which facilitates the power of swallowing it entire; this process is +tedious, and it gradually sucks in the body, which, if large, renders it +incapable of moving for some time, until it digests; and this is the period +which the hunters watch to destroy it: it makes a hissing noise like a +serpent, and has recourse to a variety of expedients to conceal itself; it +is called by the natives <i>Tinnui</i>, and is what I apprehend naturalists +term the species of <i>Boa constrictor</i>: it is most commonly found in +the sultry climates of Africa, and I believe is also an inhabitant of Asia +and America.</p> + +<p>Insects are extremely numerous, of a nondescript species, and +exceedingly beautiful: the most singular are termites, destructive to +houses and fences built of wood; ants, causing ruin to provisions; +cockroaches and crickets, destroying leather, linen, and clothes; +musquitos, sand-flies, centipedes, scorpions; and wild bees, which are very +productive of honey. The vermis and large barnacles abound, which are so +destructive to shipping without copper bottoms.</p> + +<p>Esculent vegetables are various: Rice, which forms the chief part of the +African's sustenance. The rice-fields or <i>lugars</i> are prepared during +the dry season, and the seed is sown in the tornado season, requiring about +four or five months growth to bring it to perfection.</p> + +<p>Yams, a nutritious substance, known in the West Indies.</p> + +<p><i>Cassada</i> or <i>cassava</i>, a root, of a pleasant taste when +roasted or boiled, and makes an excellent cake, superior in whiteness to +flour.</p> + +<p>Papaw, of a deep green in its growth, but yellqw when ripe, and is an +excellent dish when boiled; its leaves are frequently used by the natives +for soap; ropes are made of the bark.</p> + +<p>Oranges and limes are in great abundance, and of superior quality, +throughout the year; but lemons degenerate much in their growth, and in a +few years are scarcely to be distinguished from the latter. Guavas, +pumpkins, or pumpions, squash water mellons, musk mellons, and cucumbers, +grow in the greatest perfection. The pumpkins grow in wild exuberance +throughout the year, and make a good pudding or pie.</p> + +<p>Indian corn, or maize, may be reaped several times throughout the year, +only requiring about three months growth.</p> + +<p>Millet, with a multiplicity too tedious to enumerate.</p> + +<p>Sugar canes are not very abundant, but are of a good quality, which, +under careful management and industry, would, no doubt, yield productive +returns.</p> + +<p>Coffee trees, of different nondescript species, only requiring the same +interference.</p> + +<p>Dyes, of infinite variety and superior texture: yellow is procured from +the butter and tallow tree, producing a juice resembling gamboge, but more +cohesive, and of a darker colour; the wood of this tree is firm, and +adapted to a variety of purposes; its fruit is about the size of a tennis +ball, nearly oval, thick in the rind, and of a pleasant acid taste, +containing several seeds about the size of a walnut, and yielding a viscous +substance used by the natives in their food. Red and black are procured +from a variety of other trees and plants; and indigo growing in wild +exuberance, particularly in the rivers more to the northward.</p> + +<p>Cotton, in great varieties, requiring only cultivation to raise it to +perfection and amount. The natives manufacture from it a narrow cloth, +which is made from thread, spun in a manner similar to the distaff.</p> + +<p>A species of silk cotton, or ether down, is produced on a large tree, +called the pullam tree. The quantity which the usual size bears may be +computed at about 4 cwt. in pods of 6 to 9 inches long, 4-1/2 in +circumference, and about 1-1/2 inch in diameter, which, upon being exposed +to the heat of the sun, is distended to an incredible bulk. It is much +superior to down for the couch, and, from its elasticity, might be of great +utility in the manufacture of hats. This tree is in great estimation among +the Africans, and is frequently regarded by them as their <i>Fetish</i>. +Every town almost has a tree of this species towering over its huts, which +its chief tells the traveller with exultation he or his father planted.</p> + +<p>Tobacco is uncertain, but I entertain very little doubt that it might be +raised upon the more luxuriant soils.</p> + +<p>Pepper, more particularly near Cape Mount, of several sorts, Maboobo, +Massaaba, Massa, Amquona, Tosan, &c.; the three first are of a weaker +flavour, and are oblong and angular in their seeds; but the last excels in +pungency, and is the native Malaguetta pepper of Africa.</p> + +<p>The bread-fruit tree, is similar in appearance to the apple tree, and +grows in the low sandy situations of the Boolum shore, producing a fruit +exceedingly nutritious, and larger than an apple.</p> + +<p>Tamarinds in great variety and plenty: the velvet tamarind abounds in +the Bananas, also the white and brown; but the latter are most in esteem, +and are very fine.</p> + +<p>Okras, the fruit of a small tree, resembling the English mallows, which +put into soup gives it a gelatine quality, highly alimental; the leaves +make a good spinage.</p> + +<p>The palm tree, producing the oil so denominated, is one of the most +useful trees to the African, yielding him meat, drink, and raiment. Where +it grows, it is an indication of a good soil. It is remarkably tall, +without branches, having regular and gradual protuberances, from the bottom +towards the top, ending in five or six clusters of nuts, shaded by large +deciduous leaves. The nuts, which are about the size of a hazle nut, have a +hard kernel, encompassed by a clammy unctuous substance, covered by a thin +skin, and the oil is produced from them by being exposed to the sun, which, +by its influence, opens the juices; subsequent to this exposure, the nuts +are put into a boiler full of water, and a liquid, in the process of +boiling, flows upon the top, which when skimmed off, soon hardens and turns +rancid; the kernel of the nut, after this process, is taken out of the +boiler, beat in a paloon, and put into clear water, the shell of the nut +sinks, and its contents float upon the surface, which, when skimmed as +before, is finally put into a pot, fried, and carefully poured off, +producing another kind of oil, used as butter, and having in a great degree +its quality.</p> + +<p>The wine is extracted from the tree by forming an incision at the bottom +of every cluster of nuts, from each of which flows about a gallon of wine +per day, for a week, when they are closed until the ensuing season. The +liquid, when newly taken from the tree, resembles whey, and in that state +has a sweetish agreeable taste, but it soon ferments and grows sour, +changing to a strong vinegar of a disagreeable smell: in its fermented +state it is most esteemed by the natives, and is productive of +inebriety.</p> + +<p>A substance overtops the clusters about 10 or 12 inches in diameter, and +3 or 4 feet in height, in a full grown tree, from whence proceeds a stalk, +about 4 inches in length, which, on being boiled in water, makes an +excellent vegetable resembling cabbage, or rather, in taste, the +cauliflower; the leaves of the tree are converted by the natives into +baskets, fishing nets, and cloth.</p> + +<p>MEDICINAL PLANTS. <i>Colla</i> is highly esteemed by the natives, and +they attribute to it the virtues of Peruvian bark; the Portuguese, ascribe +the same quality to it, and dispatch from their factories small vessels to +collect all they can procure.</p> + +<p><i>Castor Oil Rhinum</i>.-The bush which produces the bud from which +this oil and valuable medicine is extracted, grows in great exuberance upon +the Windward Coast, and its vicinity. A species of bark is in great +abundance also, and is said to be equal in virtue to the Peruvian.</p> + +<p>The foregoing enumeration of natural productions, is the result of +unscientific enquiry only; but unquestionably, industrious and professional +research, would discover infinitely more to philosophic and commercial +contemplation, and develope the arcana of nature, dormant here through +ignorance and barbarism.</p> + +<p>On the 10th of May, I set out from Bance Island, with the view of +exploring the two branches of the Sierra Leone river, the Rochelle, and the +Port Logo. After rowing a few hours I arrived at the factory of Miffaré, +formerly occupied by a Mr. Berauld, a Frenchman, but now attached to Bance +Island.</p> + +<p>Mr. Hodgkin, with his people, then in possession of the factory, +accompanied me up the Port Logo branch the following morning, taking a +number of towns in our way, and visiting the chiefs. The course of this +branch of the river is extremely serpentine, and is navigable for light +vessels to a little way from the town of Port Logo which is now the +residence of Alimami, a Mandingo chief, who assumes the title of emperor. +The banks are overgrown with the mangrove tree, interwoven together, so as +to form an almost impenetrable thicket, excluding the air, which, with the +extreme heat of the sun, and the noxious insects which are extracted by its +rays from the swamps and woods, renders this navigation intolerably +oppressive. The chief part of its trade is in slaves, camwood, and ivory, +the latter, however, being small, although Port Logo commands a very +extensive back country. When we came near the town of Port Logo, which is +extremely difficult of approach at low water, we announced our visit by +saluting in the manner of this country, which is what they call bush +firing, or in other words is a continued irregular firing of musquetry.</p> + +<p>It was soon discovered who we were, and crowds of natives flocked down +from the upper town, which is situated on the declivity of a hill, to give +us service, or to pay their respects. Our first visit was to +<i>Marriba</i>, one of Alimami's head men, and a resident of what they +consider the lower town.</p> + +<p>Upon our arrival at Marriba's house, we found him at his devotions in +the palaver-house, a shed under which the natives daily assemble to pray, +or discuss public affairs. He received us with every demonstration of +regard, and immediately offered his services to conduct us to Alimami. The +old chief preceded us, with his long gold-headed cane, and our rear was +brought up by a number of armed men, who had assembled to give us a +favourable reception. Our salute had pleased Alimami, and being before +known to him, he was determined to shew us every respect. The heat of the +sun was almost intolerable, and before we arrived at the top of the hill +where the imperial palace stood, I was nearly exhausted. The entrance to +this large square of irregular mud buildings, is through a narrow passage +or gate, forming an oblong square of mud, covered with thatch, and facing +Alimami's house: we were ushered through this by one of his head men, and +proceeded in the order we set out to Alimami, who was seated at the top of +the square, surrounded by his chiefs, upon a mat spread upon a raised bank +of mud, dressed in a turban, after the Turkish fashion, and a loose +manding, robe, or shirt.</p> + +<p>Several pleaders were haranguing two of his judges, who were seated at a +distance, in palaver, or council, to take cognizance of a dispute relative +to some slaves; and although our arrival had excited the-curiosity of every +inhabitant of the town, yet we passed the tribunal without interruption, +their attention being absorbed on the subject of their sitting. The whole +compass of the square was scarcely equal to contain their oratory, their +voices being so extremely loud as to be heard distinctly, without the +walls, accompanied by menacing attitudes. Passing this declamatory +assembly, we paid our obeisance to Alimami, who was graciously pleased to +receive us in the manner of his country, with great civilities, and +immediately spread mats for us with his own hands, near himself. It was +impossible, although accustomed to these people, to contemplate the +surrounding objects without interest. I had previously been acquainted with +this chief at Bance Island, where he was in a high degree restrained by +European manners; but here, every thing was native and original. All came +to give us service, which is performed as I have mentioned. A goat and a +couple of fowls were next presented for our dinners, for which an offering +more valuable was expected, and of course complied with. This mutual +interchange of civilities being fulfilled, our attention was excited by the +orators, who by this time were extremely clamorous; one of them, with an +aspect the most furious, ran up to where I was seated, and addressing +Alimami, said, "that as proof his palaver be good, white man come to give +him service while he address him on the subject of his demand;" attaching +to that circumstance, the superstitious idea that he was right, and that I +was his <i>fetish</i> to establish that right.</p> + +<p>I then enquired of Alimami the nature of the trial; he replied, "these +men tell their story, I appoint two judges to hear them, who are to report +to me what they say, and their opinions of the matter, but I hear all that +already and they cannot tell me wrong: I then give judgment," Or in other +words more expressive of his meaning; these men make their complaint to my +head men, or the judges I have appointed to hear it; it is their business +to make me a true report, and give me their opinion on the merits of the +case; and although I am not now supposed to hear it, yet I am so situated +as to hear the whole, and can thereby check any corrupt practices in the +judges.</p> + +<p>I had now leisure to examine the interior of Alimami's residence; it +consisted of a square of irregular buildings, thatched with bamboo, and +covered with roofs, supported by pillars of wood, at about 6 feet distance, +projecting about the same number of feet beyond the skeleton of the fabric, +and forming a kind of palisado, which serves as a shade for retirement from +the heat of the sun, and under which, the inhabitants indulge in repose, or +sit in familiar intercourse.</p> + +<p>During my conversation with Alimami, his brother, a fat jolly fellow, +was reposing himself upon his mat, reading his Arabic prayer book, which, +upon examination, I found executed in a neat character, and from his +interpretation, was a record of fabulous anecdotes of his family, and +containing confused extracts from the Koran.</p> + +<p>The Mandingos are professed Mahomedans, whose influence is spreading +with so much rapidity on this part of the coast, that several of the other +tribes have submitted to their authority; so strong an impression has their +superior attainments and book-knowledge imprinted on their minds. In no +instance can their growing influence appear more conspicuous than in that +of Alimami being vested with authority over the Port Logo, of which he is +not a native, and over a people originally infidels. Formerly this tribe of +Mandingos were itinerant <i>fetish</i> makers and priests, but now they are +numerous to the northward of Sierra Leone, from whence a wide district +receives their rulers and chieftains.</p> + +<p>After an audience of considerable length, Alimami retired with several +of his chiefs, and soon after I had a message that he wished to see me in +another part of his dwelling. I had previously noticed to him that I +intended shortly to embark for my country. When conducted to his presence, +he very emphatically enquired "if what I tell him be true?" I replied "it +was; but that I go to do him and his countrymen good; that he know this was +the second time I look them, but never forget them." "We all know that," he +replied, "but white man that come among us, never stay long time; you be +good man, and we wish you live among us—How many moon you be gone from +us?"—"About ten moon; how would you like to go with me, Alimami?"—"I +like that much, but black man not be head enough to do what white man +does;" and putting his hand to his bosom, he took from it a piece of gold +in the form of a heart; and said, "take that for me." To have refused it +would have been an insult; I therefore accepted it; adding, "that I would +tie it to fine riband, and wear it when I look my country, to let +Englishmen see what fine present he make me." He was quite pleased with the +idea, and expressed his satisfaction with great fervency.</p> + +<p>Soon after, I offered to take my leave, and was accompanied by him and +his chiefs to the gate, where I bade him adieu, and passed through the +town, paying my respects to its inhabitants, and among others, to the +schoolmaster, whose venerable appearance, and superior intelligence, +excited my respect and esteem.</p> + +<p>Upon our return to Marriba's house, we were happy to partake of a +country mess of rice, boiled with fowls, palm oil, and other compounds. The +chief could not be prevailed to eat with us, but attended us with great +assiduity during our meal. The imperial guard accompanied us to our canoe, +and we returned to Miffaré without accident.</p> + +<p>The following morning we proceeded to the branch of the Rochell, which +we found more diversified and picturesque than the Port Logo, and its +borders better inhabited.</p> + +<p>Proceeding up this branch, and visiting the chiefs in our way, and the +inhabitants of a number of villages, we arrived at Billy Manshu's Town, a +little chief of very considerable intelligence, and who treated us with +great hospitality: here we slept.</p> + +<p>We arose early, and pursued our course up the branch, passing one of the +most regular built towns I have observed in Africa, now Morrey Samba's, but +formerly Morrey Bunda's Town. Morrey Bunda was originally a Manding, and +<i>fetish</i> maker to Smart, the chief who commands an extensive country +on that side of the Rochell branch towards the Sherbro, and rose into +notice and influence: he is now dead. The town is surrounded by a mud wall, +and at the entrance, and upon each angle of the oblong square which +encloses it, there are towers erected for the purposes of defence. The +wall, with the towers, completely obscures the buildings which form the +town, and serve as a guard against any depredations of enemies, while it +shelters the inhabitants from the effects of their arrows or musquetry. +Morrey Bunda has displayed in his plans of fortifications, considerable +ingenuity, considering the circumstances he had to provide against, and the +predatory nature of African wars, which are uniformly to surprise the +inhabitants of a village or town while asleep, or in any other unguarded +state, seldom or ever coming to a general engagement in the open country, +but acting under the protection of some ambush, or other place of security, +which, while it is calculated to conceal their numbers, serves as a retreat +from their successful opponents.</p> + +<p>Leaving Morrey Samba's we passed by a number of other villages, until we +arrived at one of Smart's trading towns, called Mahera, situated upon an +eminence, and commanding a most delightful prospect of the meandering +course of the river, interspersed with islands, displaying a great +diversity of appearance.</p> + +<p>Smart has very wisely chosen this spot, as it is not only a charming +situation, healthy, and delightful, but well situated to command a very +extensive internal trade in camwood and ivory, besides being contiguous to +the Sherbro, from whence a great portion of the camwood is procured, and +situated on the principal branch of the Sierra Leone. In addition to these +local advantages, he has recently opened a path with the interior, +communicating with the Foolah country, which is entirely under his +influence, and which he can open and shut at pleasure. It would be of +incalculable advantage to any operation to secure the friendship of this +chief: he possesses a very superior mind, and, from his connection with +Bance Island, has acquired a knowledge of European ideas and manners seldom +to be met with among any of the chiefs on this part of the coast. From the +various opportunities I have had to consult Smart on his general sentiments +relative to his country, and the freedom of intercourse I have had with +him, I am well persuaded that he would be a powerful and intelligent +auxiliary in promoting the civilization of his country, upon a liberal +principle, calculated to its condition, and having a tendency to eradicate +its barbarism; but he is one, of many more upon this quarter of the coast, +who have no reliance upon the attempts that have been made, and deplores, +with regret, that through the want of a correct knowledge of the +dispositions of his countrymen, an ignorance of the nature of the evil to +be removed, and the invidious principles which constituted the +establishments that have been formed to promote this beneficent +undertaking, his country is still excluded from the light of truth, and the +refined arts of civilized life.</p> + +<p>From Mahera we proceeded to Rochell, another of Mr. Smart's towns, more +insular, where I expected to have met him, in conformity with an +arrangement previously made, to visit him at his towns, and see, as he +observed, his country fashion. Upon our reaching this point of our +expedition, we were saluted by a numerous assemblage of chiefs and natives, +going to join my friend Smart in one of his wars with his opposite +neighbours and rivals, the Cammarancies, inhabiting the country towards the +Port Logo. The cause of quarrel was, that these people had seized upon the +rafts and canoes which brought the camwood over the falls higher up the +river, and had demolished several storehouses belonging to Smart and his +people, engaged in that trade. Smart, with a part of his forces, had +crossed the river only an hour before, and another division were embarking +to join him at a place of rendezvous upon the enemy's territory, with the +intention of cautiously approaching during the night to some of their +towns, and surprising them before they had arisen from sleep. Nothing could +exceed the novelty of this sight; the chiefs and their followers were armed +with their bows and arrows, and other rude implements of war, and +completely in their native character; in addition to their native weapons, +some had musquets, procured from Europeans in trade, swords, and various +other manufacture, supplied by traders, exhibiting an appearance, of which +no idea can be formed, without a personal knowledge of this barbarous +people. The chiefs, in particular, were covered with <i>gris-gris</i> and +<i>fetishes</i>, a mixture of feathers and other preposterous materials, +calculated to obliterate any trace of human appearance, and possessing the +virtue, as they conceived, of shielding them from danger. Solemn +<i>palaver</i> is always held upon these occasions, and their +<i>gris-gris</i> makers, <i>fetish</i> men, and priests, exorcise their +absurd decorations, which, in their estimation, operate as guardian angels +in the hour of difficulty and peril.</p> + +<p>Having occasion to visit a gentleman resident at some distance, we left +our canoes at Rochell, and proceeded on foot. <i>Cabba</i>, one of the +chiefs, accompanied us with a guard, being apprehensive, as he observed, +that "bad might happen us, as war live in the country." We passed through a +remarkably fertile country, presenting an infinite variety of natural +productions. Our path was frequently lined with pine-apples, in all the +luxuriance of nature; but amidst this animating landscape, we beheld +deserted villages, ravaged by the ferocious hand of man; and all the traces +of barbarous devastation. We fell in with several armed parties, with whom +I conversed upon the subject of the war, which appeared to be of a +predatory nature, and the consequence of insatiate avarice and barbarous +habits.</p> + +<p>At length we arrived, much fatigued, at Mr. Green's (at Massou), with +whom we rested for the night, receiving every kindness and attention in his +power to bestow. I am indebted to this gentleman for a variety of useful +information relative to a wide extent of country. His education and +acquirements are of the first class, and I could not view such a man, +insulated from polished society, which he was qualified to adorn, and shut +up in the wilds of Africa, among barbarians, without a mixture of pain and +surprise; nor did I depart from him without sympathy and regret, after he +had confided to me his motives, and the outlines of his life, which were +marked with eventful incidents, and extraordinary occurrences.</p> + +<p>It was my object to have proceeded from Massou to Rocond, the principal +town of Smart's residence, and from thence to penetrate to the falls of the +river, which, from every information I received, exhibit a sublime scene; +but, on account of the disturbed state of the country, and that chiefs +absence, I was obliged to give up my intention, and return to Rochell, from +whence we rowed down the river to the town of our little hospitable chief, +Billy Manshu; where we stayed the night. The following day we arrived safe +at Miffaré; and although Smart had given orders at Mahera to stop all +canoes, we were suffered to pass; the chiefs observing, "that they knew we +would not tell their enemies, when we came among them, what we saw them +do." Had we been strangers, it is more than probable we should have fallen +victims to the fury of these barbarians, who, in the towns we passed, were +excited to a savage fierceness, highly descriptive of the natural ferocity +of the African character.</p> + +<p>At Miffaré, formerly occupied by Monsieur Berauld, as previously +noticed, who had lately paid the common debt of nature, and who was here +buried by his own desire, I had the opportunity of ascertaining a singular +custom prevalent in this country towards the dead, and which strongly +elucidates the prevailing ideas of its inhabitants, relative to the +immortality of the soul and a future state.</p> + +<p>After Monsieur Berauld's interment, his women, and the head people of +the town, assembled round the grave occasionally, for a series of days, +requiring every evening, from Mr. Hodgkin, a candle to light his grave, +which they kept burning during the period of their mourning, under the idea +that it would light him in the other world. In addition to this, a still +more singular rite was performed on this occasion, by Alimami, of the Port +Logo, and a numerous assemblage of natives, who sacrificed a bull to the +departed spirit of Berauld, who was held in great estimation among them. +From authority I cannot doubt, I am persuaded that when slaves have been +redundant, human sacrifices have been offered to the manes of their +favourite chiefs and princes. This horrid custom, which is even extended, +in many of the districts of Africa, to the productions of the earth, is a +most serious subject to contemplate, and a feature of barbarism, pregnant +with melancholy consequences to that class of beings, whom a late +legislative act has abandoned to contingencies, and the uncontrolled power +and avarice of other nations.</p> + + + +<hr> +<H1><a name=CHAPTER_VI>CHAPTER VI.</a></H1> + + + + +<p><i>Return to Bance Island.—General Observations on the Commerce, +Religion, Customs, and Character of the Natives upon the Windward +Coast.—An Account of the requisite Merchandize for Trade, the best Mode of +introducing natural Commerce and Civilization into Africa, &c.</i></p> + + +<p>The morning after my last arrival at Miffaré I returned to Bance Island; +before I leave it, it may not perhaps be considered as inexpedient at this +stage of my narrative, to submit to my readers an account of the present +state of commerce upon the Windward Coast of Africa, the merchandize used +therein, a general outline of the religion, customs, and character of its +natives, and the system I conceive eligible, and consistent with the +claims of humanity, by which their intellectual powers may be improved, and +their enslaved state ameliorated; while our commercial ascendency may be +preserved with this region of the earth, and our enemies excluded from +those important advantages, which it only requires intelligence and +enterprise to unfold.</p> + +<p>In accomplishing this important part of my duty I beg leave to state, +that my reflections are the result of much deliberation upon the subject, +derived from manifold sources of information, and that I am the zealous +advocate of the radical abolition of the slavery of the human kind. The +motives by which I am actuated are, a philanthropic feeling for my species, +Christian principles, humanity, and justice: however I may differ, in the +means I shall propose, from many truly benevolent characters, yet I trust +that they will do me the justice to consider that my intentions are +congenial with theirs in the cause of humanity.</p> + +<p>I shall confine myself to a digested summary of actual observations on +the trade, laws, customs, and manners of the people I have had occasion to +visit; nor shall I attempt to enter into a minute detail on subjects +already ably delineated to British merchants, and with which they are +intimately conversant; but I shall treat of those branches of commerce +which have been hitherto confined to local knowledge, and not generally +known; submitting to the superior powers of the legislature, the +incalculable advantages to be derived by their interference to promote the +agricultural and commercial establishments upon the maritime districts of +Africa, as the only appropriate measure to attain a facility of intercourse +with the interior, and to enlarge the circle of civilised society.</p> + +<p>If my endeavours tend to increase the commerce of my country, and +eventually to emancipate the African, my design will be accomplished, and +my fondest hopes will be gratified.</p> + +<p>In pursuance of my plan, I shall first detail the present number of +slaves, and dead cargo, annually exported, upon an average, from the +Windward Coast of Africa, &c. from the information acquired from the +traders of most intelligence in respective rivers, and from my own +observation.</p> +<br> + +<table> +<tr><td></td><td></td><td></td><td></td><td></td><td></td><td></td><td>Amount</td></tr> +<tr><td></td><td></td><td></td><td></td><td></td><td></td><td></td><td>Sterling</td></tr> +<tr><td>NAMES OF PLACES</td><td>A</td><td>B</td><td>C</td><td>D</td><td>E</td><td>F</td><td>£</td></tr> +<tr><td>——————————-</td><td>———-</td><td>——</td><td>——</td><td>———</td><td>——</td><td>——</td><td>————-</td></tr> +<tr><td>River Gambia, and</td><td></td><td></td><td></td><td></td><td></td><td></td><td></td></tr> +<tr><td>Island of Goree . . .</td><td>2,000</td><td>15</td><td>—</td><td>—</td><td>150</td><td>—</td><td>60,250</td></tr> +<tr><td>Rio Noonez. . . . . .</td><td>600</td><td>20</td><td>—</td><td>—</td><td>—</td><td>—</td><td>19,000</td></tr> +<tr><td>Rio Pongo . . . . . .</td><td>2,000</td><td>30</td><td>60</td><td>—</td><td>—</td><td>—</td><td>52,000</td></tr> +<tr><td>River Sierra Leone,</td><td></td><td></td><td></td><td></td><td></td><td></td><td></td></tr> +<tr><td>adjacent Rivers,</td><td></td><td></td><td></td><td></td><td></td><td></td><td></td></tr> +<tr><td>and Isles de Loss,</td><td>3,200</td><td>15</td><td>200</td><td>800</td><td>—</td><td>—</td><td>82,250</td></tr> +<tr><td>inclusive . . . . . .</td><td></td><td></td><td></td><td></td><td></td><td></td><td></td></tr> +<tr><td>River Sherbro . . . .</td><td>500</td><td>—</td><td>200</td><td>300</td><td>—</td><td>—</td><td>18,000</td></tr> +<tr><td>—— Gallunas. . . .</td><td>1,200</td><td>—</td><td>80</td><td>—</td><td>—</td><td>—</td><td>26,000</td></tr> +<tr><td>Cape Mount to</td><td></td><td></td><td></td><td></td><td></td><td></td><td></td></tr> +<tr><td>Cape Palmas . . . . .</td><td>2,000</td><td>20</td><td>—</td><td>—</td><td>—</td><td>100</td><td>48,000</td></tr> +<tr><td></td><td>———-</td><td>——</td><td>——</td><td>———</td><td>——</td><td>——</td><td>————</td></tr> +<tr><td></td><td>11,500</td><td>100</td><td>540</td><td>1,100</td><td>150</td><td>100</td><td>305,500</td></tr> +</table> + +<p>A-Slaves, B-Ivory, C-Camwood, D-Rice, E-Bees Wax, F-Malaguetta Pepper + +<p>[**Note: table reformulated with labels below to fit in 70 spaces +width]</p> + +<p>Estimating slaves at 20<i>l</i>. each; ivory, 350<i>l</i>.; camwood, +25<i>l</i>.; rice, 10<i>l</i>.; wax, 100<i>l</i>.; and Malaguetta pepper, +10<i>l</i>. per ton, at first cost upon the coast of Africa; the whole +produces the sum of 305,500<i>l</i>. sterling; to which may be added a +three-fold export to leeward, which will make an aggregate amount of nearly +<i>one million</i> sterling. In addition to the foregoing exemplification, +we have to contemplate the great multiplicity of natural productions, +abounding in this extent of region, namely, indigo, numerous plants for +staining, cotton in wild exuberance, cocoa, coffee, and aromatic plants, +&c. &c. Wild bees are so extremely numerous, that wax forms an important +article of trade which might be considerably increased; substances proper +for making soap are also to be found in great abundance, raw hides, more +especially in the Gambia, and the countries insular to the Rio Noonez and +Rio Pongo; gold is procured from Bambouk, and tobacco is found in every +direction, which might be greatly increased by cultivation and an improved +soil; cattle, poultry, Guinea hens, different species of game, fish, with +other animals; fruits, and a variety of vegetable productions, calculated +to satisfy every luxurious want and desire. To these objects of commerce +may be added, the now important article of sugar, which might be raised to +a great amount, in various districts of Africa, as the climate is +propitious to the growth of the sugarcane, which, under proper cultivation, +might be raised in great perfection.</p> + +<p>The lands upon the banks of the Gambia, the Rio Noonez, the Rio Grande, +the Rio Pongo, in the Mandingo country, Sierra Leone, Sherbro, &c. are +universally allowed to be extremely fertile in many places, and abundant in +vegetation and population.</p> + +<p>These countries produce various hard woods, well adapted to cabinet work +and ship building, and are singular in their qualites and properties.</p> + +<p>The most remarkable are, 1st. the cevey, or kinney wood, which grows +about the size of the oak, in England, and may be cut into planks of 20 +feet by 15 inches. Its texture is something of the ash grey and mahogany, +variegated with stripes, fancifully disposed, and is therefore adapted to +cabinet work; its qualities for ship building are peculiar, having the +virtue of resisting the worm and vermis, so destructive to shipping in +tropical climates, and corroding iron; it grows in great abundance. Any +quantity of this wood put into water sufficient to cover it, will, in a few +hours, produce an unctuous substance floating on the top, resembling +verdigrise, and of a poisonous quality.</p> + +<p>Secondly, the dunjay wood, rather coarser in the grain, but harder in +quality than the Spanish Bay mahogany. It possesses the same peculiarities +as the cevey or kinney, in resisting the worm in salt water, and corroding +iron. It may be procured in any quantity. And, Thirdly, the melley wood, or +<i>gris-gris</i> tree, another species of mahogany, abundant in growth, +having a more rare quality than the foregoing, resisting the worm in both +salt and fresh water; it is extremely hard, and its juices so poisonous, in +the premature state, as to cause instant death.</p> + +<p>The manifold and neglected productions of this extraordinary continent +require only to be developed, and when the useful arts of Europe are +introduced here, ample recompense will attend the benevolent undertaking, +natural history will be much enlarged, and mankind be greatly benefited. +The claims of humanity, the distinguished part it has taken in an unnatural +and much to be deplored commerce, loudly unite with a wise policy, in one +impressive appeal to the feelings of the more refined inhabitants of +Europe, and to none more than those of Englishmen.</p> + +<p>The goods adapted to African commerce are,</p> + +<p><i>East India goods</i>—consisting of bafts, byrampauats, chilloes, +romals, neganipauts, niccanees, red and blue chintz, Guinea stuffs, +bandanoes, sastracundies, &c.</p> + +<p><i>Manchester goods</i>.—Cotton chilloes, cushtaes, neganipauts, +photaes, romal handkerchiefs, silk handkerchiefs, &c. <i>Linen +Britanias</i>, slops, spirits, tobacco, guns, swords, trade chests, cases, +jars, powder, umbrellas, boats, canvas, cordage, pitch, tar, paints, oil, +and brushes, empty kegs, kettles, pans, lead basons, earthenware, hardware, +beads, coral, iron bars, lead bars, common caps, Kilmarnock ditto, flints, +pipes, leg and hand manilloes, snuff boxes, tobacco boxes, cargo hats, fine +ditto, hair trunks, knives, looking glasses, scarlet cloth, locks, shot, +glass ware, stone ware, provisions, bottled ale and porter, &c. &c.</p> + +<p>The foregoing general enumeration may serve to convey a just conception +of the various manufactures requisite in the African trade, and the +different branches to which it is allied, yeilding support to a numerous +body of merchants, manufacturers, artizans, and many of the labouring class +of the community.</p> + +<p>Generally speaking, the Africans are unacquainted with specie as a +circulating medium of commerce, although they form to themselves an ideal +standard, by which they estimate the value of the commodities in barter; +this, however, fluctuates on various parts of the coast.</p> + +<p>From Senegal to Cape Mesurado, the medium of calculation is termed a +<i>bar</i>; from thence to the eastward of Cape Palmas, the computation is +in <i>rounds</i>; and on the Gold Coast in <i>ackies</i> of gold, equal to +4<i>l</i>. sterling, and of trade only half that value.</p> + +<p>At Goree the bar, under the French, was 4, pieces of 24 sous, and 1 of +6; but at present the bar is considered a dollar.</p> + +<p>The bar is by no means a precise value, but subject to much variation; +the quantity and quality of the articles materially differing in many parts +of the coast, and frequently on rivers of a near vicinity; for example, six +heads of tobacco are equal in trade to a bar, as is a gallon of rum, or a +fathom of chintz.</p> + +<p>A piece of cloth which, in one place, will only pass for 6 bars, will in +others fluctuate to 10; hence the trader must form an average standard, to +reduce his assortment to an equilibrium.</p> + +<p>The following are the barter prices now established throughout a +considerable extent of the Windward Coast; but it is to be observed, they +are subject to fluctuation from locality of situation and other +circumstances.</p> +<br> + +<table> +<tr><td>1 blue baft</td><td>6 bars</td></tr> +<tr><td>1 bonny chintz & stripe</td><td>8</td></tr> +<tr><td>1 white baft</td><td>6</td></tr> +<tr><td>1 byrampaut</td><td>6</td></tr> +<tr><td>1 chilloe</td><td>6</td></tr> +<tr><td>1 bijudapaut</td><td>6</td></tr> +<tr><td>1 cushtae</td><td>5</td></tr> +<tr><td>1 bonny blue romal</td><td>5</td></tr> +<tr><td>1 niccanee</td><td>5</td></tr> +<tr><td>1 sastracundie</td><td>4</td></tr> +<tr><td>1 India cherridery</td><td>6</td></tr> +<tr><td>1 taffety</td><td>15</td></tr> +<tr><td>1 cottanee</td><td>12</td></tr> +<tr><td>1 dozen britannias</td><td>8</td></tr> +<tr><td>1 piece of bandanas</td><td>6</td></tr> +<tr><td>1 barrel of powder</td><td>60</td></tr> +<tr><td>1 fowling gun</td><td>8</td></tr> +<tr><td>1 burding</td><td>6</td></tr> +<tr><td>1 soldier's gun</td><td>5 bars</td></tr> +<tr><td>1 buccanier ditto</td><td>6</td></tr> +<tr><td>1 dozen of cutlasses</td><td>8</td></tr> +<tr><td>1 sword blade</td><td>2</td></tr> +<tr><td>1 iron bar</td><td>1</td></tr> +<tr><td>1000 arangoes</td><td>30</td></tr> +<tr><td>1 bunch of point beads</td><td>1</td></tr> +<tr><td>1 bunch of mock coral</td><td>1</td></tr> +<tr><td>Red pecado 3lb. for</td><td>1</td></tr> +<tr><td>Seed beads, ditto</td><td>1</td></tr> +<tr><td>Battery ditto</td><td>1</td></tr> +<tr><td>1 Mandingo kettle</td><td>1</td></tr> +<tr><td>1 dozen of hardware</td><td>3</td></tr> +<tr><td>1 bason</td><td>1</td></tr> +<tr><td>1 ton of salt</td><td>60</td></tr> +<tr><td>1 fine hat</td><td>3</td></tr> +<tr><td>Tobacco, 6lb. to</td><td>1</td></tr> +<tr><td>Rum, per gallon</td><td>1</td></tr> +</table> + + +<p>Prime ivory is procured at a bar per lb, and <i>escrevals</i>, or pieces +under 20lb. 1 bar for each 1-1/2lb.</p> + +<p>As the natives are unacquainted with arithmetic, their numerical +calculations are carried on by counters of pebbles, gun-flints, or +cowries.</p> + +<p>After the number of bars is decided upon, a counter, or pebble, &c. is +put down, representing every bar of merchandize, until the whole is +exhausted, when the palaver is finished; and, as they have very little idea +of the value of time, they will use every artifice of delay and chicane to +gain a bar.</p> + +<p>In matters of less consequence they reckon with their fingers, by +bending the little finger of the right hand close to the palm, and the +other fingers in succession, proceeding to the left hand, concluding the +calculation by clapping both the hands together; and if it requires to be +extended, the same process is repeated.</p> + +<p>Among the Foulahs in particular, commercial transactions are carried on +with extreme tardiness; a <i>palaver</i> is held over every thing they have +for barter. The season in which they chiefly bring their trade to the coast +is during the dry months, and they generally travel in caravans, under the +control of a chief or head man. The head man of the party expects to be +lodged and accommodated by the factor, and before they enter upon business, +he expects the latter <i>to give him service</i>, or a present of kola, +Malaguetta pepper, tobacco, palm oil, and rice; if they eat of the kola, +and the present is not returned, the head man begins the trade, by making a +long speech, in which he magnifies the difficulties and dangers he has had +to surmount, &c.; mutual interpreters report this harangue. The trade for +rice is settled with little delay, but every tooth of ivory requires a new +palaver, and they will dispute for a whole day for a bar with the most +determined firmness.</p> + +<p>When the palaver and trade is gone through, they again expect a present, +and if they are pleased with the factor, they march off singing his +praises, which they communicate to all they meet on the road.</p> + +<p>The annual return from this commerce in colonial productions, has been +from <i>two</i> to <i>three millions sterling</i>; for although large +remittances have been made in bills to the African merchants, yet these +bills have been provided for in produce by the planters. Politically +considered, it will appear, that its regeneration might have been more +appropriately the progressive work of time; and humanely viewed, it will +also appear, from my subsequent remarks, that by those means alone the +African can be freed from his shackles, and his condition efficaciously +improved.</p> + +<p>But to proceed with the intention of this chapter, I shall next make +some remarks on the religion, customs, and character of the natives of the +Windward Coast.</p> + +<p>The natives on this part of the coast, and indeed throughout Africa, are +in general extremely superstitious; they believe in witchcraft, +incantations, and charms, and in certain Mahomedan doctrines, adopted from +itinerant devotees and priests of that persuasion, who are numerous among +them, and make a trade of selling charms. The Baggoes, Nellos, Susees, +Timinees, &c. occasionally worship and offer sacrifices to the Devil, and +are equally confused in their conception of the Supreme Being, of whose +attributes they entertain an assemblage of indistinct ideas, of which it is +impossible to give any clear description. They will tell the traveller with +great apathy, "they never saw him, and if he live he be too good to hurt +them." Their acts of devotion are the consequence of fear alone, and are +apparently divested of any feelings of thankfulness or gratitude for the +blessing they receive from the good Spirit which they suppose to exist. The +Devil, or evil spirit, which they suppose to exist also, claims their +attention from the injury they suppose him capable of inflicting, and is +worshipped under a variety of forms; at one time in a grove, or under the +shade of a large tree, consecrated to his worship, they place, for the +gratification of his appetite; a <i>country mess</i>, a goat, or other +offering of this nature, which they may conceive to be acceptable to his +divinity, who, however, is often cozened out of the offering by some +sacreligious and more corporeal substance, to whose nature and wants it is +more congenial; at some periods great faith is attached to their +<i>fetish</i>, as an antidote against evil; and at others the alligator, +the snake, the guava, and a number of other living animals and inanimate +substances are the objects of their worship. Like other unenlightened +nations, a variety of external beings supply the want of the principles of +Christianity; hence the counterfeit adoption and substitution of corporate +qualities as objects of external homage and reverence.</p> + +<p><i>Fetish</i>, derived from the word <i>Feitico</i>, denotes witchcraft +among the majority of the maritime nations of Africa: this superstition is +even extended to some Europeans after a long residence in that country, and +is an expression of a compound meaning, forming an arrangement of various +figures, which constitute the objects of adoration, whether intellectually +conceived, or combined with corporeal substances; even the act of devotion +itself; or the various charms, incantations, and buffoonery of the priests +and fetish makers, who abound among them. In short, it is an incongruous +composition of any thing dedicated to the purpose; one kind of fetish is +formed of a piece of parchment containing an expression or sentence from +the Koran, which is associated with other substances, sewed up in a piece +of leather, and worn upon several parts of their bodies. Another kind is +placed over the doors of their huts, composed of distorted images besmeared +with palm oil, and stuck with feathers, some parts are tinged with blood, +and the whole is bedaubed with other preposterous applications.</p> + +<p><i>Ghresh</i>, or <i>Gresh</i>, is an expression in the Arabic tongue, +meaning to expel or drive away, and, as I apprehend, by the repetition of +the word, is the expression from which the African <i>gris-gris</i> is +derived, consisting of exorcised feathers, cloth, &c., short sentences from +the Koran, written on parchment, and enclosed in small ornamented leathern +cases, worn about their persons, under the idea that it will keep away evil +spirits, and is a species of <i>fetish</i>.</p> + +<p>The Mandingos, or book-men, are great <i>fetish</i> makers, many of them +being well versed in the Arabic tongue, and writing it in a neat character. +From the impression of their superior learning and address, their influence +and numbers daily increase, many of them having become rulers and chiefs in +places where they sojourned as strangers, The religion they profess in +common with the Foolahs, Jolliffs, and other Mahomedan tribes, is +peculiarly adapted to the sensual effiminacy of the Africans: the doctrines +of Mahomet contained in their book I have procured from a very intelligent +chief in the Rio Pongo, and when I compare his account with others of his +nation on this part of the coast, the Foolahs, and the Mahomedan tribes in +the vicinity of the Island of Goree, I am persuaded the following is the +portion of the Islam faith believed by them.</p> + +<p>1st. That God is above all, and not born of woman.</p> + +<p>2d. That Mahomet stands between God and man, to intercede for him; that +he is superior to all beings born of woman, and is the favorite of God. +And,</p> + +<p>3d. That he has prepared for the meanest of his followers and believers +<i>seventy-two bouris</i>, or black-eyed girls of superior beauty, who are +to administer to all their pleasures, and participate with them in the +enjoyment of the fountains and groves of paradise, and in the gratification +of those appetites congenial to their nature and existence in this world. +This nearly amounts to the entire belief of Mahomet's doctrine, which is +nothing but a compound of this eternal truth and necessary fiction; namely, +"that there is only one God, and Mahomet is the apostle of God:" from +hence, in the idiom of the Koran, the belief of God is inseparable from the +apostolic character of Mahomet. The fertile and politic imagination of this +impostor admirably adapted his tenets to the prevailing and established +customs; he tolerates polygamy, &c. and to add to the sanctity of his +pernicious doctrines, he represents himself as having been visited by the +angel Gabriel, in the cave of Hera, where he communicated to him the +precepts of the Koran, in the month of Ramadan, which he enjoins as a fast; +he interdicts wine, and inculcates the necessity of praying five times a +day, facing the holy city, &c.; forming together a system of the most +insidious character towards the establishment of pure Christianity. In the +performance of the duties of their belief, the Mahomedan nations of Africa, +upon the coast, are exact and scrupulous, but they have no idea of the +intellectual doctrines of the Islam faith, or the happiness described by +Mahomet as enjoyed by superior saints in the beatitude of vision; they are +as perplexed on this subject as they are in their conceptions of the divine +nature, and discover a surprising contraction of mental powers, when +considered as human beings endowed with reason.</p> + +<p>The nations, upon the Windward Coast, are in general little influenced +by belief in their actions. Forgiveness of injuries they conceive +incompatible with the nature of man; and a spirit of retaliation is very +prevalent and hereditary, descending in succession from father to son. They +are extremely jealous of white men, designing, ferocious, and cowardly; but +there are, notwithstanding, a great variety of localities existing among +them, and it will be found that their climate and habits are closely +assimilated.</p> + +<p>To the Africans, the indispensible articles of life are reduced to a +very narrow compass, and they are unacquainted with the insatiate wants of +Europeans. The heat of the climate renders cloathing an incumberance, and +occasions a carelessness with regard to their dwellings: for the former, +they require only a stripe of linen, and their <i>gris-gris</i>; while a +building of mud, covered with an interwoven and thatched roof, forms the +latter, which is reared with little labour, and, when circumstances require +it, is abandoned without much regret.</p> + +<p>The food of the Negro consists chiefly of rice, millet, &c. seasoned +with palm oil, butter, or the juices of the cocoa-nut tree mixed with herbs +of various kinds. They frequently regale themselves with other dishes, +kous-kous, and country mess, to which they sometimes add fowls, fish, and +flesh, heightened in the flavour by a variety of savory applications.</p> + +<p>A contracted system of agriculture, conducted by their women and slaves, +in a very few days prepares the <i>lugars</i>, or cultivated fields; and +the harvest is distributed by the elders of the community, according to the +portion and wants of the society of the village, or is stored up to be +portioned out as circumstances may require.</p> + +<p>Water is the ordinary drink of the Negroes; they, however, regale +themselves with a wine extracted from the palm tree, as before described, +which, in the luxury of indulgence, they frequently suck through a very +small kind of cane, until inebriety and stupidity absorb them in a perfect +state of apathy. They have also a very pleasant beverage, extracted from +the cocoa nut and banana tree, besides several descriptions of beer, +fermented from various roots and herbs. In the Rio Pongo, and adjacent +countries, especially in the Bashia branch of that river, the Soosees +extract a fermented and intoxicating liquor from a root growing in great +abundance, which they call <i>gingingey</i>, something similar to the sweet +potatoe in the West Indies. The distillation is commenced by forming a pit +in the earth, into which a large quantity of the root is put, and covered +with fuel, which is set on fire, and kept burning until the roots are +completely roasted: the roots are then put into paloons, and beat, exposed +afterwards in mats to the sun, by which they acquire a taste similar to +honey; and are afterwards put into hampers for distillation. This is +performed by making a funnel of sticks in a conical form, interwoven +together like basket-work; the funnel is filled with the material, and +water poured upon it; the succulent moisture therefrom passes through a +tube, and yields a liquid similar in colour to coffee, and of a violent +purgative quality. It remains in this state about twenty-four hours, and is +then incorporated with a quantity of the ashes of rice-straw, which excites +a bubbling fermentation like boiling water, after which it becomes fit for +use. In forty-eight hours it returns again to its purgative state, which +interval is employed in drinking most copiously, until overtaken by +insensibility and intoxication. The root, in its roasted state, is an +excellent medicine for colds.</p> + +<p>Indigo and cotton grow in wild exuberance almost every where, without +culture, and the women collect such quantities as they consider requisite +for their families, which they prepare and spin upon a distaff; the thread +is woven, by an apparatus of great simplicity, into fillets, or pieces from +six to nine inches broad, which are sewed together to any width, required +for use. The indigo, in its indigenous state, and a variety of other +plants, colour these cloths, an ell of which will serve as a dress for a +Negroe of the lower class.</p> + +<p>They manufacture cloths, of a very fanciful pattern, from various +substances. I have some from the rind of the cocoa-nut, of great beauty, +and a fine texture; also cloth, fine mats, baskets, hats, ornaments, +quivers, arrows, &c. which all prove the taste and ingenuity of the +natives.</p> + +<p>The Negro is attached by love about his thirteenth year, and from +sixteen to twenty he seeks the object of his affection. This choice +generally continues in his confidence during life; and in proportion as he +acquires wealth, he associates with her several concubines, who generally +live cordially together. From this acquisition to his household, he is +considered rich; and it is a common expression with the Negro to say, "such +a man be rich, he have much woman." When an object excites his desire, he +consults his head woman, who, without any apparent suspicion of rivalry, +gives her assent, and forwards his suit; but she is displeased when not +consulted; and it is not uncommon that the object falls a victim to her +jealousy. Celibacy is a state almost unknown in Africa; and when it does +occur, it is considered as a degradation.</p> + +<p>The Negroe's existence is almost a gratuitous gift of nature; his wants +are supplied without laborious exertion, his desires are gratified without +restraint, his soul remains in peaceful indolence and tranquillity, and his +life glides on in voluptuous apathy and tranquil calm: he has few +solicitudes or apprehensions, and he meets the stroke of fate with perfect +resignation.</p> + +<p>In the countries which I have visited, and, as I understand from others, +every principal village or town has its <i>bantaba</i>, or +<i>palaver-house</i>, which I have before described. In this house, or +under the shade of some venerable tree, all ranks occasionally assemble in +groups, from sun-rising to sun-set, and pass the time in chit-chat, or in +conversation on public affairs. Their subjects are inexhaustible, and their +tittle-tattle is carried on with surprising volubility, gaiety, and +delight; their time thus occupied is so seducing, that they separate with +great reluctance, sometimes passing the entire day in this, pratling, +smoaking, and diversion: night, however, terminates these amusements: They +assemble in the open air during the dry season, and under the +palaver-houses in the wet, where they form themselves into dancing +companies, generally during half the night, and not unfrequently the whole +of it. Their instruments of music are upon a very rude construction, +consisting of a <i>tabila</i>, or drum, hollowed out from a piece of wood, +and covered at each end with a bull's hide, producing a most barbarous +noise, accompanied by a <i>baba</i>, or rattle, loud shouts, palaver, +songs, and violent gesticulations, forming a system of confused uproar, +unmusical, and ungraceful. Their motions are irregular, sometimes in +violent contortion, and at others voluptuous and slow. Nothing can be done +without a palaver; and at the change of every dance, he from whom the +proposition originates, makes a solemn harangue over the musical +instruments, which is generally descriptive of some warlike action or +exploit, when they again give themselves up with rapture to the pleasures +of the dance, the females in particular, whose actions and shew of +luxuriant pleasure are highly offensive to delicacy, exhibiting all the +gradations of lascivious attitude and indecency. At this period of unusual +delight, they are applauded by the men with rapturous ardour; but suddenly +a feeling of shame strikes the minds of the young creatures with a +humiliating sense of their display, and amidst these plaudits they hastily +retire to the matrons, who are spectators of the scene, and hide their +blushes in their bosoms. So strongly implanted is this ingenuous and +amiable modesty in youth, which is frequently laid aside when engaged in +the vortex of pleasure, that it is one of the highest charms of beauty; and +wretches only, degraded by debauchery and systematic vice, are capable of +insulting this sentiment. A scrupulous regard to modesty and truth will not +permit me to pursue the description of these amusements farther than +observing, that they prepare them for a profound and tranquil sleep on +their mats, from whence they arise at the dawn of day cheerful and easy. +Thus infancy and youth are singularly happy, and mothers attend their +offspring with maternal feeling and delight; they are neither disturbed by +painful commands or restraint; and it is a picture of perfect happiness to +see these children of nature in sportive groups and infantine diversion. +This happy infancy and gay youth is peculiarly calculated to organise a +vigorous manhood, and a firm old age; and, I am persuaded, that these are +the physical causes why the Negro race are so muscular in body, and +procreative of their species. In some countries innoculation is practised; +but the small pox is not so common, or dreadful in its effects, in these +countries as in Europe. The greatest term of their lives may be computed at +from sixty to seventy years, it seldom or ever happening that life is +prolonged beyond that period in this part of Africa. They retain their +vigour, and enjoy a permanent and regular state of health until the last; +and I have observed a venerable chief of advanced years having the +possession of a dozen of young handsome wives, and the father of a young +progeny, whose legitimacy was never disputed or suspected. In Europe the +last stage of man is a daily anticipation of dissolution; but in Africa, +declining years are only insensible approaches to the termination of a +journey, the event of which he considers as the end of life, unconscious of +the future, but as a fatality equally attached to all the creation.</p> + +<p>The picture I have endeavoured to delineate may serve to convey an idea +to the mind of the moral and physical state of Africa, which, undisturbed +by ferocious barbarism, fierce hostilities, and horrid customs, convey a +blissful and happy state of being; but, alas! we must now take another +view, and contemplate these beings in the most degrading state, absorbed in +superstitious idolatry, inhuman customs, and shut out from the civil arts +of life, and the mild principles of Christianity. Their customs, their +hostilities, slavery, and the mode I have conceived requisite to +infranchise this unhappy race of men, I shall attempt to represent in the +following chapter; and happy shall I feel if the description excites the +attention and interference of more capacious minds on this subject, +interesting to so large a portion of the human race, and to the claims of +humanity.</p> + + + +<hr> +<H1><a name=CHAPTER_VII>CHAPTER VII.</a></H1> + + + + +<p><i>The Mode of Trial by</i> Ordeal <i>and</i> Red Water <i>in +Africa.—The Wars of its Inhabitants.—The State of Barbarism and Slavery +considered.—The Condition of the Africans will not be improved by a late +Legislative Act, without further Interference.—Salutary Measures must be +adopted towards the Negroes in the Colonies.—A System suggested to abolish +Slavery in Africa, and the Slave Trade in general, and to enlarge the +intellectual Powers of its Inhabitants.—The proper Positions to effect an +Opening to the Interior of Africa, and to display to the World its manifold +Resources.</i></p> + + +<p>Trial by <i>ordeal</i> in Africa is a punishment for petty thefts and +delinquincies. Trial by <i>red water</i> is generally applied to crimes of +greater magnitude. After the usual ceremonial of calling a palaver, the +operation is performed by heating a piece of iron in the fire, the hand of +the accused is dipped into a viscous preparation, and the iron is +immediately drawn horizontally over the palm of the hand. If the judges +(one of whom is always the executioner) have previously determined, in +defiance of all the evidence, to prove the culprit guilty, the consequence +is that the flesh is seared; but if they are predisposed to acquit him, the +iron is dexterously applied so as to absorb the unctuous surface on the +hand without affecting it, and a sentence of not guilty is pronounced.</p> + +<p>Trial by <i>red water</i> consists in making the accused drink a +quantity of water, into which is infused the poisonous juice of the melley +or <i>gris-gris</i> tree; this is prepared by these <i>equitable</i> +judges, and applied upon the same fraudulent principles as in the trial by +the <i>ordeal of fire</i>; it is, however, less resorted to. If the unhappy +object of suspicion is affected in such a manner as they consider as a +proof of guilt, his brains are knocked out upon the spot, or the body is so +inflated by the pernicious liquid that it bursts. In either of these +catastrophes all his family are sold for slaves. Some survive these +diabolical expedients of injustice, but the issue is uniformly slavery. +When chiefs of influence, guilty of atrocity and fraud, become objects of +accusation, the ingredient is of course qualified so as to remove its fatal +tendency. Hence justice seldom or ever in this country can punish powerful +offenders, or shield the innocence of the weak and unprotected.</p> + +<p>The iniquity and oppression sanctioned by these trials, is a dreadful +consequence of their avarice and inhumanity, for it is a fact that slaves +are created thereby, and human sacrifices offered to that spirit, which +they consider as their tutelar guardian: it is a subject which humanity +should seriously contemplate in the relinquishment of the slave trade, +whether, by the hasty adoption of that measure, before the intellectual +powers of the people are improved by civilization, this barbarous evil may +not be increased. When I closely enquired of the chiefs and natives +relative to these savage customs, they uniformly admitted the fact, "that +such live in their country," but with their characteristic dissimulation, +always denied having perpetrated these horrid acts, and shifted the +diabolical practice to some other nation or tribe, adding, "that only bad +men do that thing."</p> + +<p>Circumcision is practised among men, and a certain infliction on women, +not, however, from religious motives, but to guard against the consequences +of a disease not uncommon among them. The infliction upon women is the +result of infidelity, or a sacrifice of chastity to loose gratification. As +a preliminary, they retire to the <i>bunda</i>, or penitentiary, and are +there secluded from all sexual intercourse. When the season of penitence is +over, the operation is performed by the rude application of two stones, +fashioned and sharpened for the purpose; this obliterates all delinquincy, +and on their return to the world they are considered as restored to virgin +purity.</p> + +<p>Wars in Africa originate from a variety of causes; in forming a correct +estimate of these, it is necessary to consider its localities and +situation. The inhabitants of this quarter of the earth, more particularly +those of the district now under consideration, compose numerous tribes and +nations, whose various views and interests excite jealousies and +contentions, which, aided by the passions peculiar to a barbarous people, +inevitably produce hostilities, and the effusion of human blood.</p> + +<p>What we have hitherto known of this country undoubtedly proves that wars +are carried on with the most sanguinary violence: their prisoners, by the +customs of the country, are consigned to massacre, slavery, and +sacrifice,<a name="FNanchor_1_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_3"><sup>[1]</sup></a> to gratify the avarice, vanity, and cruelty of their chiefs; +one of these passions must be predominant, and therefore the question is, +which of them is the least pregnant with evil? It cannot admit of a doubt +that those who are victims to avarice meet a more mild and humane fate, in +falling into the hands of Europeans, than the unhappy portion who are +sacrificed to vanity and cruelty; and it is equally true, that since the +interior nations have been enabled to exchange their slaves for European +merchandize, the number of victims to the latter passion has decreased. I +am far from being the advocate of slavery, but I am stating a fact, and +leave it to the reader to form his own conclusions. Where confirmed habits +and immemorial custom is to be supplanted, it is certainly requisite to be +well acquainted with the nature and character of the natives, which I have +not here introduced in an exaggerated shape, but infinitely within the +bounds of their savage ferocity.</p> + +<p>From these sources alone have arisen the expedients attendant upon the +slave trade; kidnapping and petty warfare form a very unimportant branch of +the barbarism which governs the inhabitants of Africa, and their enslaved +condition.</p> + +<p>Viewing this in the mass of moral evil which disgraces the character of +man, it will be found that it is even disproportioned to the estimated +population of Africa, which, from the best authority, has been stated at +upwards of 160 millions; and to apply the consideration to our own +situation, it will be found, that the number of executions and +transportations from the United Kingdom, in proportion to its population, +is infinitely greater than the number of slaves exported from the shores of +Africa, to its numerous inhabitants. Unquestionably the slave trade has +extricated a number of human beings from death, whom the horrible +sacrifices before described consigned to a barbarous exit, and has been a +cause, though an immoral one when applied to Britons, of extricating many +victims, who otherwise would have been annually sacrificed: humanity has, +therefore, some consolation in this polluted branch of our commerce, which +in its nature is barbarous and inhuman.</p> + +<p>Theories become extremely dangerous when they are impracticable, or +misapplied, and are pernicious in their consequences from the fallacious +measures they establish. In Africa crimes are punished by forfeitures, +slavery, or death; they are however rare; but accusations are often used to +procure slaves, whether for domestic purposes, sale, or sacrifice to their +customs. Death, as a punishment, is seldom the penalty of condemnation; and +if the culprit is rich, he can purchase his security. The alleged crime of +witchcraft, or magic, is a common means by which the chiefs increase their +accusations; and, consequently, the number of slaves. Adultery, and other +violations of social order, are punished by fine, but absolution is to be +obtained by money.</p> + +<p>The crimes by which the chiefs obtain the condemnation and disposal of +their subjects, are nearly all imaginary; for few exist which, under their +laws, are considered as acts of turpitude. The abuse of authority, the +action of violent passions, barbarous customs, ferocious habits, and +insatiate avarice among the chiefs, augment the number of captives and +victims, and the operation of these is much greater in the interior than in +the maritime districts; but this leads me to the next part of my subject, +namely, that a late legislative act will not, without farther interference, +improve the condition of the African.</p> + +<p>By the hasty conclusion of that measure, the unhappy African is now +abandoned to his fate; and we have surrendered him into the hands of other +nations, less acquainted with his character and situation. Former acts of +parliament had adopted wise and humane measures to ameliorate the condition +of slaves on board British vessls, so that their wants, and even their +comforts, were administered with a liberal hand; and much more might have +been done to augment these comforts. Instead of now being the object of +matured and wise regulations, the captive is exposed to the rapacity of our +enemies, who will derive great advantages from our abandonment of the +trade, and those who are incompetent, from the want of local knowledge, to +ease his shackles, and sooth him in his state of bondage. The magnitude and +nature of the disease, required a comprehensive system of policy to +eradicate it; and although in its nature and tendency of great moral +turpitude, alteratives were required calculated to its inveterate character +and established habits. The condition of the African, the probable +advantages he was to derive by our abandonment, and the circumstances of +commerce, were all considerations of important consequence.</p> + +<p>Even virtue itself must modify to its standard many considerations of +moral evil, more particularly in a political point of view, that it may the +more effectually establish its principles; nor can it, amidst the +corruptions of society, exercise at all times its functions with due +effect; neither has an instance occurred where its prudence and discretion +was more imperiously called upon, than in that now under consideration. It +had immemorial custom in Africa to contend with, inveterate barbarism, and +savage ferocity. This system had interwoven itself with our commercial +existence so closely, as to require the most sagacious policy to eradicate +it; at the same time it was the highest consideration for our magnanimity +to interfere for that being whose thraldom and calamitous state had so long +contributed to our wealth and commercial prosperity, before we abandoned +him to contingencies.</p> + +<p>Enough may have been said in the foregoing pages, to prove that +something yet remains to be done to effect the manumission of the African, +and preserve the important branches of commerce, which necessity has allied +with the slave trade; and I entreat my readers to give this subject that +dispassionate consideration which its merits require, and beg to assure +them, that I obtrude my suggestions upon their notice with great submission +and diffidence, trusting that what may appear in my system deficient, +others more competent will embrace the subject, and excite the beneficence +of my country in behalf of the African, promote civilization and Christian +society in his country, display its arcana of wealth to the world, and open +a path to its commerce, free and unobscured.</p> + +<p>The colonization of the coast of Africa, in my estimation, is +impracticable, from its climate being uncongenial to the constitution of +Europeans, and from the system of slavery existing among its inhabitants, +without the employment of natives in their present condition. The requisite +authority to establish a system of labour, upon remunerative principles, +and with industrious vigour, cannot otherwise be supported; and a +misapprehension on this principle has been one of the great causes, as I +conceive, of the failure of the Sierra Leone Company in establishing their +agricultural objects. They attempted, in prosecution of their humane +project, an agricultural establishment on the Boolam shore, opposite to +their colony, where they had a choice of good lands: they proceeded upon +the principles of their declaration, "that the military, personal, and +commercial rights of blacks and whites shall be the same, and secured in +the same manner," and in conformity with the act of parliament which +incorporated them, more immediately that clause which relates to labour, +namely, "not to employ any person or persons in a state of slavery in the +service of the said Company;" but they have totally failed; and in one of +their reports, among other reasons, it is acknowledged, that for want of +authority over the free natives whom they employed, their agricultural +establishment on the Boolam shore was unsuccessful. Let not those worthy +and truly respectable characters, whose humanity has induced them to risque +an extensive property <i>unhappily expended without effect</i>, here +consider that I mean to militate against their views, but rather may they +acquiesce in the truth, and devise other expedients to promote their +beneficent objects, and to <i>assimilate the natives</i> of the country +with their views. They have not only to lament a nonproductive profusion of +their property, but an <i>alienation of the natives</i>, occasioned by a +misconception of their character, by distracted councils, and the narrowed +ideas of the agents they employed to prosecute their humane endeavours, but +also by a desolate waste in their colony, without a regular feature of +cultivation in its vicinity.</p> + +<p>At Bance Island, where slavery and agriculture were united under one +superintendance in conformity with the established laws of the country, the +mechanic arts among the natives have arrived at a greater degree of +perfection than any situation I have visited upon the Windward Coast; and +had the intellectual powers of their minds been more amply considered and +cultivated, they would have exhibited an uncontrovertible example of the +capacity and intelligence of the African. Although, as I have previously +noticed, a superintendance directed only to the mechanical arts, applied to +the local necessities of the Island, has had the most visible effects, yet, +in proportion as their privileges have been extended, authority has become +more inefficient, and their labour less unproductive in a pecuniary point +of view, for want of a previous enlargement of their intellectual powers, +and a progressive operation of freedom commensurate thereto.</p> + +<p>I can bestow no panegyric adequate to the sense I entertain of that +active goodness which prompted the Directors of the Sierra Leone Company to +the undertaking I have alluded to; but with all due deference I conceive +that they have mistaken the practicable grounds, upon which the seeds of +civilization, and the principles of Christianity, can be effectively +displayed to the African. The Directors had to contend with a peculiar +co-mixture of passions, licentious habits, and hereditary vice; to +eradicate these, and to rescue the natives from their natural state, +alluring and progressive measures were necessary, founded upon an accurate +investigation of their characters and policy, and not by the fulminations +of intemperate zealots, and theoretical speculators. The beneficent views +of the Sierra Leone Company have been unaccountably perverted, and have +been the distorted instruments in prolonging, rather than extirpating, the +barbarism of the African: it is therefore a subject of great regret to the +benevolent supporters of this establishment, that an unprofitable +expenditure of their property is the only existing perpetuity of their +humane interference. Will it be found that the Company's agents have +introduced the arts of civilization among any tribe or nation in Africa, +that they have made any progress in agriculture, although possessing a very +extensive tract of fertile lands, or that they have converted them into any +of the regular features of cultivation? Have they explored or brought into +action any of the attainable and lucrative branches of natural commerce, +abounding in the region they inhabit, or do they employ a single ship in a +regular trade with the mother country? Will it be found that they have +unfolded the doctrines of Christianity, in their native purity and +simplicity, to the unenlightened African, or converted, by their preaching +and example, any tribe or nation among them?—The spacious waste is +destitute of the appearance of domestic industry, or respectable character; +it exhibits only a tissue of indolence, hypocritical grimace, petulant and +assuming manners, and all the consequences of idleness and corrupted +morals. To succeed in this beneficent undertaking, and to expunge the +inveterate nature of the African, his prejudices, and inherent customs, +progressive approaches upon his present condition are indispensibly +requisite, under the attractive influence of agriculture, manufactures, +commerce, and navigation.</p> + +<p>Accidental events, concurring with political causes, frequently render +the best concerted measures abortive, and retard their progress, but +unquestionably the above-mentioned are the means by which the African may +be manumitted, and his condition improved. The wisest laws operate but +slowly upon a rude and fierce people, therefore the measures of reformation +are not to be successfully performed by a coup-de-main, nor are the +hereditary customs of Africa to be erased by the inflammatory declamations +of enthusiasm, but by a liberal policy and the ascendency of the polished +arts of society. Commerce, the chief means of assembling, and agriculture +of assimilating, mankind, must first assume their fascinating and alluring +attitudes to the African upon his native plains. Too impetuous and indolent +to observe the forms, or enter into the requisite details of business, he +contemplates the effect, without investigating the cause; but, when he +discovers his own comparative wretchedness, he will be roused from his +innate indolence, his powers will be stimulated, and his emulation excited +to attain a more exalted state.</p> + +<p>Imperceptible and circumspect approach at innovation upon the laws, +customs, and country of Africa are indispensibly requisite, its chiefs and +head men must be cajoled, their jealousies dextrously allayed, and their +sordid avarice flattered by the prospect of superior gain.</p> + +<p>During the infancy of colonization, the employment of native labour must +be tolerated, as is evident by the unsuccessful attempts of the Sierra +Leone Company, and may appear from what I have already urged. Independent +of political considerations, of much weight, the uncongeniality of the +climate of Africa to the constitution of the European colonist opposes an +insurmountable barrier to the exercise of laborious avocations; therefore +it is necessary to employ natives, in conformity with the usage of the +country; and a recognition of property should exist in their persons; for +it is obvious, from experiment, that authority cannot otherwise be +established, or the necessary labour performed to produce an adequate +return. While this invidious exigency obstructs the immediate manumission +of the slave, it does not the less accelerate it, agreeable to the sound +and humane policy adapted to his condition; but, on the contrary, is +necessary to his complete emancipation; for he must first be taught the +nature of the blessings of freedom, his intellectual faculties must be +expanded, and the veil of barbarism gradually removed, to prepare him to +participate in its enjoyment.</p> + +<p>The system of colonization which I, with all submission, submit to the +legislature, and to my country, is this:</p> + +<p>1st. To employ natives in whom a recognition of property shall exist, as +unavoidable from the present condition of Africa.</p> + +<p>2d. To procure them from as wide an extent of the most powerful nations +and tribes upon the sea coast, as is practicable, and from the Slatees or +slave merchants from the interior countries.</p> + +<p>3d. That a requisite number of these should be fit for the present +purposes of labour, and for an immediate initiation into the mechanic arts, +as applicable to the local circumstances of the colony, and the useful +purposes of life.</p> + +<p>4th. That a proportionate number of males and females should form the +complement, from the age of 5 to 7 years, and be placed in a seminary of +instruction, under the inspection of the government of the colony, and +under tutors approved of in England.</p> + +<p>5th. That this establishment of a seminary of instruction in Africa, +under the administration of the colony, shall have for its bases the +initiation of these children, as calculated to their sexes, into the +rudiments of letters, religion, and science, and the progressive operation +of education adapted to the useful purposes of life.</p> + +<p>6th. That when thus prepared, the necessary avocations of domestic +economy, agriculture, and mechanics, employ the next period of their +existence, under the superintendence of the European colonist.</p> + +<p>7th. When arrived at the period of mature years, and thus instructed, to +become the object of legislative enquiry and investigation as to their +attainments, character, fidelity, and mental improvement.</p> + +<p>8th. That such as produce clear testimonials of capacity, knowledge, and +acquirement, become immediately objects of manumission.</p> + +<p>9th. That all proceedings in this process of education and emancipation, +become matters of record in the colony, subject to such control and +investigation as his Majesty's Government may, in its wisdom, appoint, from +time to time, to guard against the corruption and prejudices of the +legislative authority of the colony.</p> + +<p>10th. That thus endowed, they are to be dismissed to their respective +countries and nations, employed as agents in various capacities of +civilized pursuit, and to promote the commercial and agricultural views of +the colony, and disseminate their allurements among their tribe, which, +under the direction of the unerring dispensations of divine providence, +might, in process of time, diffuse civilization and Christianity throughout +the utmost region of Africa, its inhabitants become members of civilized +and Christian society, and their country, in process of time, be extricated +from its barbarism.</p> + +<p>It is for the legislature to devise a system adapted to the colonies, +calculated to their local situations, and to remove the invidious +distinction now subsisting between the African there, and in his native +country; by these means the entire Negro race may participate in the +blessings of civilization and revealed religion, in every quarter where our +extensive dominion and influence exist.</p> + +<p>By adopting the <i>first proposition</i>, a sufficient authority would +be maintained to enforce the labour necessary to produce profit, and +competent to excite emulation, which is a powerful passion in the character +of the African; for in every effort he discovers a strong spirit of +competition.</p> + +<p>Through the medium of the 2d proposition, the natives of an extentive +district would be collected under the instruction of the European colonist, +and, in process of time, would become the happy instruments of initiating +their, tribe or nation into the arts of civilization, and in promoting the +commercial interests of the colony, which may eventually be diffused +throughout Africa.</p> + +<p>By the 3d expedient, an adequate portion of effective labourers would be +obtained to commence vigorous operations.</p> + +<p>In consequence of the 4th, 5th, and 6th, a portion of children of both +sexes would be procured at a moderate rate, in their unadulterated +condition, who would be susceptible of any impressions, free from the +control of their parents, and the contamination of their example, into +whose tender minds might be instilled the principles of moral virtue, +religious knowledge, and the civil arts of life.</p> + +<p>Through the adoption of the 7th and 8th, the objects of humanity might +be realized, and slavery, with the slave trade, make a natural exit from +the shores and country of Africa.</p> + +<p>By the 9th, the corrupted and interested endeavours of the colonists to +retard the work of emancipation would be controlled; and, by the patronage +of Government, pecuniary resource and support be obtained, in aid of +individual and corporate endeavours, the requisite population from the +parent state acquired, and the indispensible authority established to +secure success to any further attempts at colonization upon the coast of +Africa.</p> + +<p>And through the 10th expedient, an extended population would enjoy the +advantages of instruction and example, and our ascendency and commerce be +increased by a rapid process, which would predispose the natives to throw +open the avenues of their country to our enterprize and research.</p> + +<p>Thus may the long seclusion of the African from the light of truth and +revealed religion be annihilated, his inveterate jealousies allayed, his +nature regenerated, and his barbarism fall before the emanations of +enlightened existence. In the interim, an unobscured path to the interior +of his country will be opened, and our commerce therewith flow through a +less polluted channel; while the Negro, now the victim of barbarism in his +native land, may be extricated from his thraldom, and received into the +circle of civilized life, which he has hitherto been excluded from, and to +which providence, without doubt, in its mysterious and incomprehensible +administration of human affairs, has designed him to arrive at.</p> + +<a name="Footnote_1_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_3">[1]</a><div class="note"><p> A portion of them being destined to domestic slavery, as +victims to revenge, and as sacrifices to their barbarous customs.</p></div> + + + + +<hr> +<H1><a name=CHAPTER_VIII>CHAPTER VIII.</a></H1> + + + + +<p><i>What the Author conceives should be the System of Establishment to +make effectual the Operations from Cape Verde to Cape Palmas.—Reasons for +subjecting the Whole to one Superior and controlling Administration.—The +Situations, in his Estimation, where principal Depots may be established, +and auxiliary Factories placed, &c. &c.</i></p> + +<p>What I have already said respecting the coast from Cape Verde to Cape +Palmas, may be sufficient to convey a tolerably just and general idea of +the religion, customs, and character of the inhabitants, the commercial +resources with which it abounds, and the system to be pursued to unite +commerce with the claims of humanity in one harmonious compact.</p> + +<p>I am persuaded there is no situation on the Windward Coast of Africa +more calculated, or more advantageously situated, than the river of Sierra +Leone to influence and command an enlarged portion of the continent of +Africa.</p> + +<p>This part of Africa, as ascertained by Mr. Park, communicates, by its +rivers to the Niger, and introduces us to the interior of this great +continent; and, from other sources of information, Foolahs, Mandingos, &c. +I am enabled to confirm the statement given in one of the reports of the +Sierra Leone Company, that from <i>Teembo</i>, about 270 miles interior to +the entrance of the Rio Noonez, and the capital of the Foolah king, a path +of communication exists through the kingdoms of Bellia, Bourea, Munda, +Segoo (where there are too strong grounds to believe that the enterprising +spirit of Mr. Park ceased its researches in this world), Soofundoo to +Genah, and from thence to Tombuctoo, described as extremely rich and +populous. The distance from Teembo to Tombuctoo the natives estimate at +about four moons' journey, which at 20 miles per day, calculating 30 days +to each moon, is equal to 2,400 miles. This distance in a country like +Africa, obscured by every impediment which forests, desarts, and intense +climate can oppose to the traveller, is immense; and when it is considered +that in addition to these, he has to contend with the barbarism of the +inhabitants, it is a subject for serious deliberation, before the +investigation of its natural history and commercial resources is +undertaken. But it also displays an animating field of enterprise to obtain +a free intercourse with this unbounded space, and if, at a future day, we +should traverse it with freedom and safety, the whole of Africa might +thereby be enlightened, and its mysteries developed to the civilized +world.</p> + +<p>I have therefore conceived the expediency of submitting all the +enterprises and operations of the United Kingdom to the influence of a +supreme direction and government in the river of Sierra Leone. No doubt +many contradictory opinions may prevail upon this subject, and upon the +outline I have previously submitted on the most eligible plan of +introducing civilization into Africa; but the detail of all my motives and +reasons would occupy too large a space; I shall therefore proceed to +instance some local circumstances and political reasons why I make the +proposition.</p> + +<p>From what I have said respecting the path which Smart, of the Rochell +branch of the river Sierra Leone, has now under his authority, and can open +and shut at pleasure, communicating with the extensive country of the +Foolahs, whose king (as the Sierra Leone agents are well aware of, but who +was strangely and unaccountably neglected by them) is well disposed to aid, +by prudent application, all advances towards the civilization of his +country, it is evident that an immense commerce, extending northward to +Cape Verde, and southward to Cape Palmas, on the coasts, and from the +interior countries, might be maintained.</p> + +<p>By light vessels and schooners, drawing from 6 to 8 feet water, a +continued activity might be kept up in the maritime situations and rivers, +and a correspondence by land might be conducted by post natives, who travel +from 20 to 30 miles per day, to all parts of the interior countries.</p> + +<p>From the Island of Goree a correspondence with the river Gambia, and a +watchful vigilance over the settlement of the French in the Senegal would +be maintained both by land and sea, which, with a well chosen position, +central from Cape Sierra Leone, to Cape Palmas, would combine a regular +system of operation, concentrating in the river Sierra Leone. In addition +to these three principal depots, it would be requisite to establish +factories, and places of defence to the northward, on the rivers Scarcies +and Kissey, at the Isles de Loss, the rivers Dembia, Rio Pongo, Rio Grande, +Rio Noonez, and Gambia; and to leeward, on the rivers Sherbro, Galhinas, +Cape Mount, Junk river, John's river, Bassau, &c. or in other commanding +positions towards Cape Palmas. The expense of these auxiliary +establishments and forts would be inconsiderable, compared with the objects +they would attain, the chief requisite being regular and well supplied +assortments of goods, and a wise system of organization adapted to +circumstances.</p> + +<p>The navigation of these rivers, and habits of conciliation and +friendship with the chiefs resident upon them, and towards the interior, it +may here be perceived, are the only practicable measures, under the +auspicious control of Government, to retain our commerce with Africa, to +civilize its inhabitants, and explore its hidden wealth; and are the most +favourable, also, towards our operations in the countries on this +continent; while the various natives attached to this pursuit, would aid, +by wise management, in influencing the inhabitants, where our researches +and pursuits might carry us, and eventually conduct us to the centre of +Africa, from thence to the eastern shores of the Mediterranean, and the +banks of the Nile. I trust it will here also appear that the means of +acting, and the important advantages to be derived therefrom, are neither +illusive nor impracticable.</p> + +<p>It is to be lamented, that, in undertakings of this kind, men of limited +genius, of no experience in business, and incapable of acting with +unanimity, have been too frequently employed; who are governed more by +caprice than principle, and are consequently seldom able to reduce their +ideas into practice, and allow their passions to predominate over the +maxims of duty. Delicacy in managing the humours and interests of men is +the art requisite to successful operation.</p> + +<p>May it be remembered, that if civilization and our ascendency prevail in +Africa, and if the first essays we make to extend our relations with that +country are successful, we attach to the civilized world one-fourth of the +habitable globe, and its infinite resources. It therefore becomes a subject +of great magnitude, to commence and form a system of operation, to collect +the means of this immense extent, and the propriety of subjecting the whole +to a similarity of views, and co-operation under one controlling +administration.</p> + +<p>The precipitate abolition of the slave trade will reduce our affairs in +Africa, to a contracted and unproductive compass, in its present condition; +therefore if we attach any consequence to this quarter of the globe, it +will be expedient to endeavour to discover new scources [**Note: sources] +of commercial wealth and industry.</p> + +<p>Coffee, cotton, the sugar cane, cacao, indigo, rice, tobacco, aromatic +plants and trees, &c. first offer themselves to, our attention in wild +exuberance. And these, in my humble opinion, are the only rational means to +bring Africa into a state of civilization, and to abolish slavery.</p> + +<p>I recommend one administration under the patronage of Government, in the +Sierra Leone river, to guard against a want of unity in the number of petty +establishments that may otherwise exist on the coast, which from jealousies +and interests varying in different directions, produce operations of a +contradictory nature, and the first necessary step, is to be well +acquainted with the character and dispositions, of the natives, and the +localities of the maritime situations; for without combined enterprises, I +venture to predict we are now excluded from the commerce of Africa.</p> + +<p>I trust that my system will be examined in all its points, with +dispassionate impartiality before it is rejected; and if others more +competent to the task, devise more eligible means to promote the views of +humanity and commerce, I shall feel happy to have agitated the subject, and +rejoice at every means, to rescue so important a matter to the interests of +mankind.</p> + +<p>The commandant of Goree, I would propose as second in command, with +delegated powers to control all the operations in the countries bordering +on the Senegal, and the river Gambia; and an annual inspection directed by +him, throughout this district. The intermediate countries from the Rio +Noonez to Cape Mount would come immediately under the examination of the +central and administrative government of Sierra Leone, and the third +division under the authority of another command at a position chosen +between Cape Mount, and Cape Palmas.</p> + +<p>The military protection of the establishments, as I have here +recommended, would neither require great exertions, or numbers. Goree +certainly claims peculiar attention. Its fortifications should be repaired, +and the guns rendered more complete, and tanks for water should be in a +perfect state to guard against the want of this necessary article from the +main land, which, as before noticed, is liable to be cut off at any period +by the enemy. The convenience, airy and healthy construction of the +barracks and hospitals, claim the most minute attention and care. Under +skilful superintendance in these important departments, the health of the +troops might be preserved, and objects of defence realized with a very +inconsiderable military establishment. But as government must be well +informed by its officers, both military and naval in these points, it would +be indecorous in me to enlarge on the subject. Lieut. Colonel Lloyd, from +his long residence, and intimacy with a great portion of the Windward +Coast, possesses ample information. And the naval officers, who from time +to time have visited it, have, no doubt, furnished every document necessary +to complete an effective naval protection. A regular system of defence, +adapted to the jurisdiction of the Sierra Leone, and delegated +establishment between Cape Mount and Cape Palmas, are also obviously +requisite. The establishments that would be eligible for the purposes of +defence, are confined to the three foregoing principal positions, and they +have little to perform that is either difficult or embarrassing. It may +not, however, be considered as going beyond the bounds of propriety to +hint, that a great portion of the soldiers charged with defence, should be +able engineers and gunners, and a few cavalry might be occasionally found +useful. To complete the entire plan, and exclude our enemies from every +point, from Cape Blanco to Cape Palmas, the possession of the French +establishment at the Isle of Louis in the Senegal, is an abject of serious +contemplation, and no doubt might be attained with great facility by even a +small force. The unhealthy consequences to a military force attached to +this place might be greatly removed by superior convenience in the +hospitals, barracks, and other departments of residence; and in a +commercial point of view, its advantages are too well ascertained for me to +obtrude any observations.</p> + +<p>The bricks necessary for building may be procured in the country, lime +from oyster shells, &c. wood and other materials at a very inconsiderable +expense; and as the usual mode of payment, is in bars of goods, instead of +money, the nominal amount would thereby be greatly lessened.</p> + + + +<hr> +<H1><a name=CHAPTER_IX>CHAPTER IX.</a></H1> + + + + +<p><i>The Author embarks in the Ship Minerva.—Proceeds to the Rio +Pongo.—Disquisitions thereon.—Further Observations on the Inhabitants, +obtained from Natives of various Nations met with there.—The Isles de +Loss—Returns to Sierra Leone, &c.</i></p> + + +<p>Upon the 4th of June, 1806, I embarked at Bance Island, on board the +ship Minerva of Liverpool, bound upon a trading voyage to the Rio Pongo, +and other rivers to the northward, and on Thursday the 12th came to an +anchor at the upper forks, in the Rio Pongo, being the point at which the +branches of the <i>Bungra, Charleston, Constintia,</i> &c. empty +themselves; higher up the river are the <i>Sanga</i> and <i>Bashia</i> +branches, occupied by a chain of factories, and inhabited by various +nations and tribes. The principal factories for trade are on the +Constintia, about 40 miles up the river, Mr. Cummings's factory, at +Ventura; Mr. John Irvin's, at Kessey; Mr. Benjamin Curtis's, at Boston; Mr. +Frasier's, at Bangra; Mr. Sammo's, at Charleston; Mr. David Lawrence's, at +Gambia; Mr. Daniel Botefeur's, at Mary Hill; Mr. Ormond's, Mr. +Tillinghurst's, Mr. Gray's, in the Bashia branch; with various others of +inferior consideration.</p> + +<p>During my stay on this river, I visited the whole of these branches, and +in addition to personal investigation, I obtained much information from the +various conductors of these factories, and had a variety of opportunities +of communicating with many of the natives from the interior countries, who +are drawn hither by the extensive commerce of the Rio Pongo. In my +excursions on this river, I was generally accompanied by Captain William +Browne, of Liverpool, who was part owner of the Minerva, and had the sole +management of the concerns of her voyage; and I am happy to give him this +public testimony of the many obligations he conferred upon me, while on +this part of the coast, which unceasingly continued until my arrival in +England, by the way of the West Indies.</p> + +<p>The countries bounded by the Rio Pongo and the Gambia, are inhabited by +the Nilloes and various tribes, who carry on a considerable trade with that +river, the Rio Noonez, and Rio Grande, and inland to the two latter, is the +powerful nation of the Foolahs, possessing an extensive country, about 200 +miles in breadth from north to south, and 400 miles from east to west. +Teembo, the capital of the Foolah king, is about 270 miles inland from the +entrance of the Rio Noonez. The paths for trade and communication with the +interior, from this position, are at the king's pleasure, and he opens and +shuts them by his mandate. The Foolahs are tall, well-limbed, robust and +courageous, grave in their deportment, are well acquainted with commerce, +and travel over an astonishing space of the country. Their religion is a +mixture of Mahomedanism, idolatry, and fetishism. One of their tenets, +which inculcates the destruction of those they term infidels, is peculiarly +friendly to slavery, and as the greater part of their neighbouring tribes +are of that description, they are continually practising every violence, +and, are frequently engaged in wars. When I suggested to a chief of very +considerable intelligence, and one of the Foolah king's head men, whom I +met in the Rio Pongo, the enormity of their injustice to the surrounding +tribes, and how displeasing it was to the God they prayed to, his reply +was, "True, this be bad fashion to Foolah, or Mandingo man, but these +people we make war against never pray to God, nor do we make war with those +who give God Almighty service." While this barbarism exists, and the slave +trade is continued, humanity will have to, bewail the miserable condition +of the African slave. For this, and various other reasons that might be +urged, and considering the position and extensive influence of the Foolah +nation, their king claims a high consideration in a combined scheme of +establishment upon the coast.</p> + +<p>So impressed was this chief, of the beneficial advantages to be derived +from agriculture, that he tendered land, cattle, men, &c. to the agents of +the Sierra Leone Company, only requesting from them, in return, a delegated +superintendance; but, strange to tell, this disposition was not cultivated +nor improved; nor was the further offer of the king of Laby, and his high +priest, to place their sons under the protection of the Company, to be sent +to England and educated. A more important step could not have been taken to +attain the object of the Directors, than this of attaching the Foolah +nation to their interest.</p> + +<p>The women of this nation are handsome, and of a sprightly temper, and +their countenances are more regular than those of the common Negroes; the +hair in both men and women is much longer, and not so woolly, but they have +a most disgusting custom of forming it into ringlets, bedaubed with oil and +grease, which gives them a very barbarous appearance. The Foolah tongue, is +different from that of the surrounding nations, and its accent is more +harmonious.</p> + +<p>To the southward of the Rio Pongo, to Sierra Leone, lie the countries of +the Bagoes, Soosees, Mandingos, Timminees, and Boolams, all idolaters +except the Mandingos, who, like the Foolahs, associate in their religion a +mixture of fetishism and Mahomedanism. The Timminees are a more harmless +race of men than any of the other <i>infidel</i> nations, and their +dispositions are more calculated to industrious avocations than their +neighbours.</p> + +<p>I have already noticed the Mandingos, but, as I consider this nation and +the Foolahs of the first consequence, from their power and influence over +the other nations of this part of the coast, I shall add a few more +observations upon them.</p> + +<p>From what I have before stated, it will appear that the Mandingos are a +numerous people in Africa, gaining a daily influence and authority in the +district now under consideration. Besides the tribes of this people who +inhabit the countries between the Soosees and Timminees, there are various +others established in the country of Bambouk, and on the borders of the +Gambia, but the great body occupy an extensive territory above the sources +of that river.</p> + +<p>The empire of the Mandingos is not, however, so considerable as that of +the Foolahs, but from their increasing influence over the western +countries, from their docile and cunning dispositions, their knowledge in +merchandize, and acquirements in book-knowledge, their power must, in +process of time, be greatly increased; and it will be of the utmost moment +to civilize them, in order to acquire an influence over the more barbarous +states.</p> + +<p>Notwithstanding the cunning and dissimulation which characterizes these +people, they are generous, open, and hospitable, and their women are +aimiable and engaging: they are more zealous Mahomedans than the Foolahs; +their colour has a mixture of yellow, but their features are more regular +than the other nations of Africa which I have seen. The Foolahs, the +Mandingos, and the Joliffs, bordering on the Senegal, are the most handsome +Negroes on this part of Africa; the hair of the latter, however, is more +crisped and woolly, their nose is round, and their lips are thick; this +nation, in particular, is blacker than those approximating towards the +line; nor are the Negroes in the Krew coast, and towards Palmas, so black +as the nation I now speak of; which may tend to prove, that the colour of +the Africans does not arise from a vertical sun, but from other physical +causes yet unknown.</p> + +<p>There is a characteristic feature between the Mahomedan nations of +Africa, particularly those from the shores of the Mediterranean (whom I +have seen in my travels in that quarter) which, with their almost universal +profession of the Mahomedan religion, sanctions the idea, that this part of +the coast has been peopled from the eastern parts of the continent; but the +visible difference in religion, complexion, and feature, of the nations +towards Cape Palmas, give rise to other conjectures. An obvious difference +may be observed among these numerous nations; their language and their +customs are various, and are frequently without affinity or relation. From +the shores of the Mediterranean to this part of Africa, the majority of the +nations are Mahomedans, but towards Cape Palmas they are gross idolaters, +with a mixture Mahomedanism and superstition; many of them erect temples, +and dedicate groves to the devil. I have seen several of these, which +exhibit no outward sign or object of worship, but consist of stumps of +trees, in a circular form, covered with leaves, or a thatched roof, in the +centre of which stands a square altar of mud, without any image of +adoration. The reason assigned by them for their omission in this +instance, is, "that they never look the Devil or evil spirit, therefore +they do not know how to make any thing like him." To the good spirit they +neither make offering nor sacrifice, considering it as unnecessary to +obtain his favours, from his disposition to do nothing but good, which of +course he will administer to them.</p> + +<p>From every thing that I have observed, I conceive that idolatry, and +fetish worship, is the predominant religion of Africa, and that +Mahomedanism has been propagated by the Moore and Arab's. It may not here +be unopportune to introduce the Mandingo man's prayer, which I obtained +from a very intelligent chief of that nation: viz.</p> + +<i>Mandingo Arabic</i>.<br> +<br> +Subbohanalahe Rabila'ademy<br> +abodehé. Subbohanala rabila<br> +Allah. Subbohana arabe. Inye<br> +allamante, nafuse wa amutate<br> +sue wakefurella. Teyatelillahé<br> +tebates allivatuelub lahey.<br> +Sillamaleko ayo hanabehé, obara<br> +katolahe Sullamalina Ihannabé,<br> +lebadelahe Saliheneé"<br> +<br> +The address to Mahomet follows,<br> +viz.<br> +<br> +Sahadala elahe idillaha<br> +Mahomedo, arasoolo lahi<br> +man Mahomedo aboodaho.<br> +<br> +<i>In their idiom of English.</i><br> +<br> +God lives and, is not dust.<br> +God be master of all and is<br> +above his slaves. God knows<br> +his slave, and is not made of<br> +earth; but above all. (Before<br> +the next sentence, Subbohana<br> +arabe, &c. he bows twice.)<br> +<br> +Suppose I die, I can look you<br> +to-morrow, and thank you, and<br> +be out of trouble, and free from<br> +the Devil.<br> +<br> +(Teyatelillahé, &c. accompanied<br> +by a motion of the fingers)<br> +<br> +I beg in my prayers again,<br> +God, I may die to day, I look to<br> +thank you again to-morrow,<br> +my people and family may<br> +then get into trouble, and I<br> +then pray to you.<br> +<br> +To Mahomet.<br> +<br> +Mahomet be man, born of<br> +woman, the prophet of God,<br> +and speak to him for man.<br> + +<p>In this system of prayer there is a mixture of fetishism, Mahomedanism, +and a strong analogy to the Christian system; and it is no inconsiderable +argument in favour of the mediation of the Saviour, that in the worship of +heathen nations a mediator is uniformly associated with the object of +adoration. Virgil in his Aeneid, and other classic writers, illustrate a +belief of the ancient heathens in the omniscience of the deity, and they +clearly elucidate the importance they attached the mediatorial efficacy of +offerings and sacrifice.</p> + +<p>The form of worship adapted to the foregoing prayer, is to squat down +upon the ground, placing the palm of their hands flat thereon twice, +touching the earth the same number of times with their foreheads; then +rubbing their arms from the wrist to the elbow, with that which is +contracted by this operation, when the hands are applied to the face, and +the forefingers put into the ears.</p> + +<p>I have dwelt more minutely upon this people and their present condition +compared with the Foolahs, because I consider these nations have it much in +their power to shut and open the paths of intercourse with the interior +countries, therefore they become of importance, in the contemplation of any +pursuits upon this district of Africa.</p> + +<p>The Mandingoes inhabiting Galam, and the countries interior to the +Gambia, carry on the principal trade with those of Bambouk, &c. where gold +is procured. This precious metal is obtained from the surface of the +earth, and from the banks of the falls of the rivers in the rainy season; +it is first washed in a calabash; and when the water is poured off, the +dust, and sometimes large grains remain. The natives have no idea of +mining; but it appears from hence, that mines of this metal must exist, +which are concealed thro' the want of the arts of civilized life. The +Mandingoes speak of these countries with a great air of mystery, and are +extremely jealous, lest Europeans should obtain any information relative +to them: as they carry on almost exclusively, this branch of commerce.</p> + +<p>When I was in the Bashia branch of the Rio Pongo, a meteor of an +extraordinary kind appeared for two successive nights, directing its course +from NE. to SW. which put the natives in a most dreadful state of +consternation; the women fell into loud lamentations, the men beat their +drums, and sent forth the most horrid yells; imagining, that this barbarous +uproar would drive away the object of their fears. In eclipses of the sun +and moon, they repeat their prayers and sacrifices, with the same clamour, +under the notion that it will frighten away the monster which they suppose +to obscure these planets from their view. These superstitious notions have +the most powerful influence over the Negro's mind, and it is impossible to +dissuade or reason him out of them.</p> + +<p>From all I have stated, the great importance of these countries, to open +an intercourse with the interior of Africa, must appear. On the borders of +the Rio Pongo, and other rivers, excellent lands, forming hill, and dale, +are every where to be found, and well adapted to agricultural experiments. +With the <i>consent of the chiefs</i>, these might be obtained at a small +expense, and many of them with whom I have communicated, would gladly +embrace a wise interference; but they all complain, "white man not know +their fashion," intimating in very forcible language, that every caution +should be used, at innovation upon their laws, customs, and manners. Let +example first excite their admiration, and their barbarism will bow before +the arts of civilization, and slavery be gradually abolished.</p> + +<p>Before I conclude this chapter, I shall make some observations upon the +temperature of the western countries of Africa, situated between Cape Verde +and Cape Palmas, mention the principal diseases, and those which Europeans +are most exposed to on their first arrival in these countries, and give +general precautions against the dangers of the climate, &c.</p> + +<p>The inexhaustible fecundity of Africa holds out to Europeans strong +excitements to enterprise and research; but in the pursuit, the diseases +which prevail in this country should be well understood; and it would be +highly expedient, in any plans of colonization, to attach a medical staff, +as the natives have no idea of the art of surgery, except what arises from +the knowledge they have of the properties of herbs, and the superstitions +attached to their fetishism. In annexing this extraordinary country to the +civilized world, and exploring its stores of wealth, a burning climate, and +the diseases peculiar thereto, unite with the barbarism of its inhabitants +in opposition to the European; but by a strict observance of necessary +rules, and avoiding all kinds of excess, the formidable influence of the +sun may be resisted, and the pernicious effects of exhalations, which arise +from a humid, marshy, and woody country, may in a great degree be obviated; +and I am sorry to say, that for want of proper precaution and through +ignorance, fatal consequences more frequently occur, than from the +unhealthiness of the climate.</p> + +<p>The temperature from Cape Verde to Cape Palmas is extremely various from +the vertical rays of the sun, the nature of the soil, and the face of the +country.</p> + +<p>In the months from November to March, by Fahrenheit's thermometer, it +has been from 70° in the morning, to 90° at noon, in the shade; and nearly +the same variation has been observed at the river of Sierra Leone; and in +some places in the Foolah country it has been from 50° to 90°</p> + +<p>From July to October, the mean temperature in the river Gambia, by +Fahrenheit, has been from 90° in the morning to 100° at noon in the shade, +and during the same months at Sierra Leone from about 92° to 106°; but a +variety of local circumstances may give a greater or less degree of heat: +this however may serve to give a general idea of the temperature of these +countries. The island of Goree, for example, the island of Bance, and the +bay of Sierra Leone, are more healthy, enjoying the cooling sea breezes, +more than situations in the rivers more interior. The banks of all the +rivers in Africa, which I have visited, are enclosed by impenetrable +forests, marshes, and the closely combined mangrove tree, and it is but +seldom that the land forms an uneven dry surface on their borders. +Instances however in the Sierra Leone, Rio Pongo, &c. occasionally occur, +when the most picturesque scenery adorns the river.</p> + +<p>From May to August, hurricanes or <i>tornados</i>, before described, +prevail upon the Windward Coast, and this phenomenon is to be met with from +Cape Verde to Cape Palmas. The months from November to March are remarkable +for the prevalence of east and north-east winds. When these winds, which +are called <i>harmatans</i>, set in, they are accompanied with a heavy +atmosphere, and are of a dry and destructive nature. Every description of +vegetation is blasted by their influence, and every object, animate and +inanimate, feels their powerful effects; the skin is parched and dried, and +every feature is shriveled and contracted. The most compact cabinet work +will give way, the seams of flooring open, and the planks even bend. +Furniture of every sort is distorted; in short, nothing escapes their +dreadful power. The nights at this period are cool and refreshing.</p> + +<p>The months of July, August, September, and October are rainy, from the +equator to about the 20th degree of north latitude. Towards the equinoxial +they begin earlier, and make their progress to windward, but the difference +throughout the whole of the north tropic fluctuates little more or less +than 15 or 20 days. When the rains commence, the earth, before parched up +and consolidated into an impenetrable crust, by the powerful influence of +the sun and a long period of drought, is immediately covered with vermin +and reptiles of all sorts, creating a moving map of putrefaction. The +natives ascribe to these many of their diseases; but a further cause may be +added, namely, the great change from heat to cold, and the variations at +this season.</p> + +<p>The powerful influence of the sun, which at this period is almost +vertical, quickly dissipates the clouds which obscure the sky, and produces +an almost insupportable effect; but new clouds soon condense, and intercept +the solar rays; a mitigating heat follows; the pores are compressed, and +prespiration ceases. Variations succeeding so rapidly, are attended with +the most serious effects, and the most fatal consequences. And, lastly, the +noxious exhalations arising from the inaccessible forests and marshy swamps +which abound in Africa, and from numerous animal and vegetable remains of +the dry season, which cover the soil every where, are productive of putrid +effluvia. These rains, or rather periodical torrents of water, which +annually visit the tropics, invariably continue for about four months of +the year, and during the other eight it rarely happens that one single drop +falls; in some instances, however, periodical showers have happened in the +dry season, but the effects of these are scarcely perceptible on +vegetation; the consequence is, that the surface of the earth forms an +impervious stratum or crust, which shuts up all exhalation.</p> + +<p>When the rains cease, and the heat of the sun absorbs the evaporations +from the earth, which have been so long concealed during the dry season, a +most offensive and disgusting effluvia is produced, which then fastens upon +the human system, and begets diseases that in a short time shew their +effects with dreadful violence; and no period is more to be guarded against +than when the rains cease, for the intense heat completely impregnates the +atmosphere with animalculae and corrupted matter.</p> + +<p>The principal complaints which attack Europeans are, malignant nervous +fevers, which prevail throughout the rainy season, but they are expelled by +the winds which blow in the month of December; from hence these +<i>harmatans</i> are considered healthy, but I have heard various opinions +among medical men on this subject. Dr. Ballard (now no more), whose long +residence at Bance Island, and in Africa, and whose intimate acquaintance +with the diseases of these climates, peculiarly qualified him to decide +upon the fact, was of opinion, most decidedly, that the <i>harmatan</i> +season was not the most healthy.</p> + +<p>When this malignant fever takes place in all its virulence, its +consequences are the most disastrous; the symptoms are violent and without +gradation, and the blood is heated to an increased degree beyond what is +experienced in Europe; the ninth day is generally decisive, and this is a +crisis that requires the most vigilant attention and care over the patient. +I speak this from personal experience. In consequence of the fatigues I +underwent in the Rio Pongo, and other rivers, and having been for several +days and nights exposed to an open sea, and to torrents of rain upon land, +I was seized with this dreadful disorder, although I had enjoyed an +uninterrupted state of good health before, and on my arrival at the colony +of Sierra Leone was unable to support myself on shore; and had it not been +for the kind attention and skilful prescriptions of Dr. Robson of that +colony, with the friendly offices of Captain Brown, I should, in all +probability, at this stage have finished my travels and existence together. +Dysenteries frequently follow this fever, which are of a very fatal +tendency, and sometimes the flux is unattended by fever. This disease is +not uncommon in persons otherwise healthy, but it is productive of great +debility, which requires a careful regimen; if it continues to a protracted +period, its consequences are often fatal. In my own case, a dysentery +followed the fever, and reduced me to a mere skeleton. The dry belly-ache +is another dangerous disease, accompanied by general languor, a decrease of +appetite, a viscous expectoration, and fixed pain in the stomach. Opium is +considered an efficacious medicine in this disease, and is administered +with great perseverance, accompanied by frequent fomentations. An infusion +of ginger drank in the morning has frequently good effects. Flannel assists +excretion, and is found beneficial. <i>Tetanos</i> is also another disease +peculiar to Africa, and is a kind of spasm and convulsive contraction, for +which opium is the usual remedy.</p> + +<p>The Guinea worm is another disease among the natives, which is +productive of tumours upon the body and limbs, productive of great pain, +and is a contagious disease. This, however, is a subject without my +province, and which has been ably treated upon by gentlemen, whose +profession fully qualified them for the investigation. In addition to the +many valuable treatises upon tropical diseases, from high authority, I +would recommend Dr. Winterbottom's publication to the reader, as, embracing +highly important local information upon the diseases of the Windward +Coast.</p> + +<p>I have only touched on those which have more immediately come within my +personal observation. Too much care cannot be taken by Europeans in +drinking, and even washing in the waters of Africa, which should always +undergo a filtering preparation, and I am persuaded that great +circumspection should be used in this respect: these and other precautions, +with a generous, but regular system of living, would no doubt tend to +diminish the fatal tendency of diseases in Africa.</p> + +<p>Without doubt, a series of professional observations and enquiry into +the temperature and periodical variations of the climate of Africa, and its +diseases, would be attended with the most important advantages to the +science of physic, and might ultimately prove of incalculable consequence +in preserving the valuable lives of our brave soldiers and sailors, exposed +to all the ravages of tropical climates. Advantages that are well worth the +attention of government, which would train up a body of physicians and +surgeons, initiated into the mysteries of the diseases peculiar to those +countries, which might tend to preserve a large portion of human beings of +the utmost consequence and importance to the state; and it might form a +part in the organization of colonial establishments, to attach thereto an +institution of this nature.</p> + + + +<hr> +<H1><a name=CHAPTER_X>CHAPTER X.</a></H1> + + + + +<p><i>The Author visits the Isles de Loss.—Remarks on those +Islands.—Touches at the River Scarcies.—Arrives at the Colony of Sierra +Leone.—Embarks for the West Indies—Lands at the Colony of Demerory.—Some +Observations on the Productions of that Colony, Berbice, and Essequibo, and +on the Importance of Dutch Guiana to the United Kingdom, in a political and +commercial View.</i></p> + + +<p>On the 4th of July, I rejoined the Minerva at the Palm Trees, and on the +5th we weighed and passed the bar of the Rio Pongo, steering our course for +the Isles de Loss; and on the 6th came to an anchor off Factory Island.</p> + +<p>The Isles de Loss, in the Portuguese language meaning Islands of Idols, +are so called from the idolatrous customs of the natives, and are seven in +number; Tammara, Crawford's, Factory, Temba, White's, Goat, and Kid +islands. Tammara is the largest, but very difficult of approach, and has +few inhabitants; Crawford's has two factories for trade, belonging to +gentlemen formerly in the service of the Sierra Leone Company; and Factory +Island has an American establishment, conducted by a Mr. Fisk, These are +the principal (the others being little more than barren rocks), and they +abound in vegetation and natural productions. Squilly, or the sea onion, to +which great medicinal qualities are ascribed, grows in great abundance in +these islands, and might be procured in almost any quantity. Dr. Lewis, in +the <i>Materia Medica</i>, or <i>Edinburgh Dispensary</i>, describes the +peculiar qualities of this root.</p> + +<p>The positions of these islands are excellent for trade, but exposed to +the predatory excursions of the enemy, who have frequently pillaged the +factories established in Crawford's Island.</p> + +<p>On the 9th we again got under weigh, steering our course for the +entrance into the river Scarcies. The night was attended by tremendous +peals of thunder, lightning, and torrents of rain: we continued off and on +until the 12th, when we arrived outside Mattacont Island, bearing E. by S. +and the Isles de Loss in sight. At 2 P.M. I accompanied Captain Brown, with +five hands, in the pinnace, with the intention of running into the Scarcies +river. We sailed with a fresh breeze in expectation of gaining the entrance +by the approach of night; but we were obliged to anchor in the open sea, +amidst the most awful peals of thunder, while the whole heaven displayed +nothing but vivid flashes of lightning. Amidst this tremendous scene, +exposed to the mercy of the waves, with the prospect of being deluged by +rain, we secured our little bark and ourselves, in the best manner our +circumstances would admit, and committed ourselves to the all protecting +care and disposal of Providence. The mantle of night was soon spread around +us, the scene was grand and solemn, and we were at length hushed to rest by +the jar of elements, and the murmurs of the ocean. We awoke to contemplate +an azure sky, and the all-bountiful mercy of the Creator, in preserving us +from such imminent danger, to pursue our destination through breakers, +shoals, and sands.</p> + +<p>At day-light, with a breeze from the land, we weighed, and steered our +course S.S.E. for the Scarcies bar, but the wind shifting to the S.E. and +the ebb tide running strong, we were nearly driven out of sight of land; we +were therefore obliged again to anchor, and wait the change of tide. +Trusting to a sea breeze that had just set in, it being slack water, we +again weighed: the serenity of the weather did not long continue, but soon +increased to a brisk gale, accompanied by thunder, lightning and rain; we +were driven with great impetuosity through the narrow channel between the +bar and the shore, and from the shallowness of the water, the rollers +continually broke over our heads, threatening our destruction every moment. +Providentially we surmounted these dangers, and at 5 P.M. entered the +river, which is interspersed with islands and picturesque objects, that +could not be viewed without interest. I have been thus minute in describing +this excursive voyage, that others, whose business may hereafter lead them +to this river, may profit by the difficulties we experienced in this +critical and dangerous passage. We were obliged to come to an anchorage in +the river during the night, under a very violent rain, and the next day +arrived at Robart, the factory of Mr. Aspinwall.</p> + +<p>This gentleman, whom a previous acquaintance had induced me to visit, +received us with great hospitality and kindness. From a residence of +upwards of 32 years on the coast, he possesses much intelligence and +valuable information relative to this part of Africa, and I am indebted to +him not only on this, but on former occasions, for many interesting +particulars.</p> + +<p>The factories of trade in this river are,</p> +<br> + +<table> +<tr><td>Mr. Aspinwall,</td><td>Robart.</td></tr> +<tr><td>Boatswain,</td><td>A black chief and trader, above Robart.</td></tr> +<tr><td>Mr. Lewis,</td><td>Rocoopa, attached to Bance Island.</td></tr> +<tr><td>Mr. Gordon,</td><td>Thomas's Island, ditto.</td></tr> +</table> + + +<p>With a variety of small factories attached to those of Mr. +Aspinwall.</p> + +<p>On the 15th we took leave of Mr. Aspinwall, and embarked on board a +schooner he had the kindness to furnish us with; and after a very tedious +and tempestuous passage, arrived at Sierra Leone on the 21st, having had +contrary winds to contend with; whereas with a favourable breeze, the +passage is usually performed in a few hours.</p> + +<p>Here I was attacked with the epidemic fever of Africa, and experienced +the medical assistance and friendship I have previously noticed.</p> + +<p>In an exceedingly exhausted state, but much recovered, I again embarked +on board the Minerva, where I had a second attack of the fever, accompanied +by dysentery, which reduced me to the lowest state of existence; and after +one of the most distressing and disagreeable voyages I ever experienced, we +arrived in Demerary roads after a passage of 71 days, and, by the +providence of the Almighty, we escaped both disease and the enemy.</p> + +<p>A few hours after we came to an anchor I went on shore, and I verily +believe that the passengers and spectators suspected they had received a +visitation from the world of spirits. When I reached the house of Mr. Colin +McCrea, Captain Brown's consignee, the unaffected and gentlemanlike +reception I met with, both from him and his lady, with their subsequent +kind conduct, can never be effaced from my memory. Captain Brown soon +joined us, and in the most engaging terms we were invited to become inmates +with Mr. McCrea and his partner, which we availed ourselves of during our +stay in Demerary. A few days after, I became acquainted with Mr. Alexander +McCrea, brother to my kind host, and as soon as my health would permit, +visited him at his plantation, the Hope, 11 miles from Stabroke, the +capital of the colony of Demerary. In this society, and from other +quarters, I was favoured with various information upon the situation of the +colonies in Dutch Guiana, and their importance in a political and +commercial point of view.</p> + +<p>The colonial produce of Demerary, Essequibo, and Berbice, chiefly +consists in sugar, coffee, cotton, rum, and molasses; but the richness and +fertility of the soil is capable of raising any tropical production; new +sources being daily unfolded, of the immense wealth derivable from these +colonies, and their great importance to Great Britain. The following +example, extracted from the Custom House reports, may elucidate this in a +striking degree.</p> + +<p>In the June fleet of 1804, consisting of sixty sail of various burthen +and tonnage, there were exported, viz.</p> +<br> + +<table> +<tr><td>17,235</td><td>Casks of sugar.</td><td>203</td><td>Casks coffee.</td></tr> +<tr><td>442</td><td>Barrels do.</td><td>39,701</td><td>Barrels cotton.</td></tr> +<tr><td>3,399</td><td>Puncheons rum.</td><td>336</td><td>Hhds. molasses.</td></tr> +<tr><td>8,668,885</td><td>lbs. wt. coffee.</td><td></td><td></td></tr> +</table> + + +<p>Calculating sugar at £20. per cask, and £3. per barrel; rum 150 +guilders, or £12. 10s. per puncheon; coffee 1s. per lb.; cotton £20. per +bale of 3 cwt; and molasses a guilder, or 1s. 8d. per gallon, the total +amount will be upwards of £1,600,000.</p> + +<p>This immense export has since progressively increased, and colonists are +only wanting to augment it to an inconceivable extent. How valuable then do +these colonies become, and of what importance are they, in any negociation +with the enemy.</p> + +<p>Unquestionably under the fostering care and guidance of British +jurisprudence, they would produce an accumulated export infinitely beyond +the present computation, and be productive of increasing wealth to the +merchant, and revenue to the country.</p> + +<p>The lands are still more fertile proceeding towards the interior, and +being thinly inhabited, are attainable with great facility, and are +extremely various in their productions.</p> + +<p>At this period these valuable possessions were nearly in a defenceless +state, having a very inadequate and feeble military force to defend them, +and being almost without naval protection; they had literally only an armed +brig and schooner, built and set a float by the colony of Demerary, to +guard an extensive coast, and an immense property.</p> + +<p>In addition to the foregoing enumeration of commerce, indigo, pepper, +cacoa, or chocolate nut, &c. may be raised to great amount. Of the latter, +an individual planter at Berbice, from a nursery of 500,000 trees had +138,000 bearing ones in 1806, which when gathered in, calculating 5lb. to +each tree, will reimburse him in the sum of £32,000.</p> + +<p>Retrospectively viewed, it will appear that the colonies of Dutch Guiana +are of the utmost importance to the revenue, and wealth of Great Britain. +If any consequence is attached by government to the West Indies, and it +would be preposterous to infer that there is not, these become of great +magnitude in the estimation of our colonial possessions, and if they are to +revert to their former proprietors, it evidently should be for no mean +equivalent; and it is but justice to say, that when I was in this part of +the world, the apparent negligence in the protection and jurisdiction of +these possessions, by the administration of the day, had so far alienated +the minds of the inhabitants, that their reversion to the former government +did not appear to be a subject which would excite their regret; although +they were originally predisposed in favour of Great Britain.</p> + +<p>Contemplating also Dutch Guiana in our present state of warfare, and +viewing it, from its contiguity, as an alliance of magnitude to French +Guiana, the Brazils, and the Spanish settlements of South America, from +whence, in the existing situation of Europe, the insatiate ambition of our +inveterate enemy derives an important sinew of finance, which nerves his +arm in wielding the sword against the liberties and the existence of the +United Kingdom, they become infinitely enhanced, and are of still more +momentous consideration.</p> + +<p>Indisputably their possession would tend much to facilitate the British +dominion in this lucrative portion of the globe, which might lead to a +decisive termination of hostilities, and the permanent establishment of +honourable tranquillity.</p> + +<p>On the morning of the 30th of October I took my grateful leave of my +hospitable host and his family; and, accompanied by my trusty friend, +fellow voyager and traveller, Captain Brown, I embarked at noon on board +the ship Admiral Nelson, the command of which he had taken, accompanied by +about 20 sail of vessels under convoy of his Majesty's sloop of war, the +Cygnet, commanded by———Maude, Esq.</p> + +<p>Touching at Tobago, where our fleet was augmented, we came to an anchor +in the harbour of Grenada, on the 5th of November, and remained there until +the 9th.</p> + +<p>The history of this island, with that of the West Indies in general, is +so well known, that it would be delaying my readers unnecessarily, for me +to obtrude my observations. One anecdote, however, which among a variety of +experiments, I made to ascertain the sentiments of the Negroes in the +colonies, may prove, in a high degree, their sentiments upon their present +condition. When I mentioned to them some spot, or some head man in their +country within their recollection, with the utmost extacy they would say, +"eh! you look that, massa?" I then assured them I had, and described the +pullam, or palm tree, in their native town: the effect of this remembrance +was instantaneous, and demonstrated by the most extravagant expressions of +delight. Conceiving that I had attained my object, and being persuaded that +the transportation of these people was an oppressive transgression against +their natural rights, I added, "I had fine ship, I go back to their +country, and obtain leave from massa, to let them go look their country;" a +sudden transition from extravagance to grave reflection followed; "I, +massa, me like that very well, me like much to look my country; but +suppose, massa, they make me slave, me no see my massa again; all the same +to me where I be slave, but me like my massa best, and I no look my country +with you."</p> + +<p>Among every class with whom 1 have conversed on this subject, I have +uniformly received a similar answer, and it is a convincing proof that, by +humane treatment, the condition of the slave is improved, not only by his +transportation to the colonies, but in his own estimation.</p> + +<p>It may be interesting to notice, that at the island of Grenada, I had an +opportunity of correctly ascertaining the truth of a statement, I had heard +from a medical gentleman of respectability at Demerary, that, that ravager +of the human species, the yellow fever, was first imported into this island +from the island of Bulam, in the Rio Grande, upon the coast of Africa, by a +ship called the Hankey, which brought away the sickly colonists from that +unfortunate expedition.</p> + +<p>On the 16th we arrived at Tortola, and on the 19th sailed with the fleet +under convoy of the La Seine frigate, and landed at Liverpool on the 6th of +January, 1806.</p> + + + +<hr> +<H1><a name=CHAPTER_XI>CHAPTER XI.</a></H1> + + + + +<p><i>Conclusion</i>.</p> + +<p>I have endeavoured in the foregoing pages, to introduce to my readers, +the substance of my diary of observations upon the Windward Coast of +Africa.</p> + +<p>Originally I only intended them for my own private satisfaction, and +that of my intimate friends; but on my arrival in England, I found that the +commerce of Africa was then a particular subject in agitation, among a +large portion of my fellow subjects, and the legislature of my country.</p> + +<p>Under these circumstances, I conceived it my duty as a British +commercial subject, and as a friend to humanity, to communicate my +sentiments to the Right Honourable Lord Viscount Howick, then one of his +Majesty's principal secretaries of state; which I did in the subjoined +letter. (Appendix No. I.) Upon further reflection, and by the express wish +of respectable individuals, I have been induced to obtrude my narrative and +sentiments upon the notice of the public. I have avoided as much as +possible to magnify my personal adventures, and dangers, nor have I had +recourse to the flowing periods of description, preferring a simple +narrative of facts formed upon grounds of personal observation. From +thence, if my endeavours tend to awaken a spirit of enterprise, to enlarge +the trade of the united kingdom, and to increase the export of its +manufactures, or lead to more intelligent interference in behalf of the +enslaved African, my design will be accomplished.</p> + +<p>To do justice to the natural history of Africa, and to introduce to the +public its various sources of commerce, would require a union of political +interests, and vigorous execution, which none but government can apply with +full effect.</p> + +<p>The principal outline which I have endeavoured to confine myself to, is +a recital of such traits of the disposition and character of the natives, +as seem requisite to be understood to form an accurate judgment of the +present condition of Africa. The advantages that may possibly result not +only from moral, but political considerations, in forming upon sure +principles, agricultural and mercantile establishments, calculated to +instruct and civilize the Negroes employed in the necessary avocations, +will unfold the fertility of their soil which is now left to nature; and +will also fulfil the expectations of a rational humanity, while it might +rapidly expel slavery and the Slatee trade, to the establishment of +civilization, and more natural commerce. I have also endeavoured to +demonstrate the eligibility of the position of the river Sierra Leone, from +whence a controlling and administrative authority might employ the +resources of the Windward Coast from Cape Verde to Cape Palmas, at the same +time submitting solely to the wisdom of government, the propriety of +annexing Senegal to our possessions on the coast; which of course would +tend to the total exclusion of France from this part of the world.</p> + +<p>I have besides dwelt upon such positions, as appear to me best +calculated to establish factories of trade and agricultural operation; and +upon the nations whose barbarism must first be subdued, in order to +influence other tribes, and to obtain a free intercourse with the interior, +and have pointed out those chiefs whose dispositions and influence, would +greatly co-operate to facilitate this beneficent undertaking.</p> + +<p>The rivers I have dwelt upon, are surrounded with fertile lands and a +numerous population, and may be navigated a considerable distance into the +interior country; and by reducing all operations to one well adapted +system, under the guidance of experience, moderation, and wisdom, I am +firmly persuaded that success will be the result.</p> + +<p>What I have said relative to the present state of the natives of Africa, +may tend to demonstrate the nature of the opposition, which civilization +has to guard against, and the barbarism it has to contend with. The +condition of a free Negro in Africa is easy and contented, and the class of +slaves attached to them, are satisfied with their fate. They only are to be +lamented, who are procured from condemnation, either for real or imaginary +crimes, or who are taken in war; and it is from this class that slaves are +procured by other nations. It is a remarkable circumstance, that the major +part of these unhappy creatures come from the interior, and that the +maritime places which have had intercourse with Europeans, afford only a +small number of slaves; and I am persuaded, abominable as the slave trade +may be considered, and disgraceful as it is, that it has saved many human +beings from a premature and barbarous death. I am also firmly of opinion, +that it is only by a <i>gradual abolition</i>, and a rational system to +civilize the inhabitants of Africa, that this detested traffic can be +effectually abolished. A rational philosophy and humanity, should first +have submitted to political necessity, and have commenced experiment upon +practicable theories, while the sacred rights of property should have been +regarded, and well considered.</p> + +<p>This opinion may perhaps subject me to the animadversion of many worthy +individuals; but I beg to assure them, that I am as zealous an abolitionist +as any among my fellow subjects, although I widely differ from many of +them, as to the means of effecting a measure, that embraces so large a +portion of the human race; and I should contradict the conviction of my own +mind, were I to utter any other opinion.</p> + +<p>Rectitude of intention, a lively interest in the condition of the +African, and a deep impression of the importance of this country to Great +Britain, in a commercial point of view, have actuated me in obtruding +myself upon the public; and before I take my leave, I earnestly entreat a +deliberate investigation of the imperfect system of operation, I have +recommended in the foregoing pages. If I have not been sufficiently +perspicuous, I trust the shafts of criticism will be enfeebled by the +consideration, that a commercial education and pursuit cannot claim a title +to literary acquirements; but if in any instance I meet the judgment of a +discerning public, and my suggestions excite more competent endeavours, I +shall feel the highest pleasure, and satisfaction.</p> + +<p>Into the hands of an enlightened legislature, and a beneficent public, I +commit the Negro race; and may their endeavours be blest by Providence! may +they tend to enlarge the circle of civilized and Christian society, and +augment the commercial prosperity of the United Kingdom!</p><br> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;"></span><br> + + +<hr> +<H1><a name=APPENDIX>APPENDIX.</a></H1> + +<hr> +<H2><a name=No_I>No. I.</a></H2> + +<p><i>To the Right Honourable Lord Viscount Howick, his Majesty's late +principal Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs; shewing at one View the +most simple and ready Mode of gradually and effectually abolishing the +Slave Trade, and eradicating Slavery, on the Eve of his Lordship +introducing the late Bill into Parliament for the Abolition of the Slate +Trade</i>.</p> + +<span style="margin-left: 20em;"><i>London, 5th February, 1807.</i></span><br> +<br> +<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">MY LORD,</span><br> + +<p>Stimulated by an ardent zeal for the political and commercial interests +of my country, and animated by the principles of humanity, I venture to +approach your Lordship upon a subject which, with every deference, I +conceive to be of the most momentous consequence at the present +conjuncture, namely, the existing state of Africa, and the relative +importance of its trade to the <i>United Kingdom</i>.</p> + +<p>In my communications to your Lordship, I shall adhere to that brevity +which is consistent with perspicuity, and a recognition of the importance +attached to your Lordship's time and weighty engagements.</p> + +<p>If experimental knowledge, my Lord, attaches any force to the +observations I now submit to your Lordship, I have to premise, that they +are the result of recent personal investigation, and are a summary of +remarks detailed in journals of a very excursive observation on the +Windward Coast of Africa, and a peculiar facility of intercourse with the +chiefs and native tribes of a widely extended circle, from which I am +returned, by the West Indies, in the late fleet under the convoy of his +Majesty's frigate La Seine, and Merlin sloop of war.</p> + +<p>As a preliminary introduction, permit me to refer your Lordship to the +annexed copy of a letter, (Appendix No. II.) which I ventured to address to +the Right Honourable the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, dated 1st +May, ultimo, in which is exemplified the present state of commerce from the +Island of Goree to Cape Palmas. Vide page 54.</p> + +<p>Conclusive as this example may be of its magnitude, yet it is infinitely +below its attainable increase. The want of naval protection, and the +patronage of government, has greatly fettered it, and exposed the property +engaged therein, to the incursions and destructive depredations of the +enemy.</p> + +<p>Connected with its present extent, the Gambia, the Rio Pongo, the river +Sierra Leone, and the rivers adjacent to Cape Palmas, abound with the +greatest variety of the most lucrative and rare objects of commercial +pursuit, namely, indigo, numerous plants for staining, pepper, cotton, and +a multifarious enumeration of dormant productions, besides timber of +various kinds, adapted to the building of ships destined to tropical +climates, having the peculiar quality of resisting the worm, so ruinous to +shipping, and corroding iron; it may be cut into planks of 20 feet by 15 +inches, and may be procured in any quantity.</p> + +<p>A retrospective view therefore, my Lord, displays a fruitful field to +commercial enterprise, to the attention of civilized nations, to the +naturalist, and to the metaphysician, requiring united interference only, +to unfold and fertilize them; which in effect, would tend to enfranchise a +kindred species, absorbed in barbarism, and preserve, uninterrupted, our +commercial advantages with this extraordinary and important quarter of the +globe.</p> + +<p>It is, certainly, my Lord, a subject of the deepest regret to the +philanthropist, that among the Africans, a devoted race is consigned to the +galling fetters of slavery by their inhuman customs, by their barbarous +hostilities, and the commercial expedients of civilized states.</p> + +<p>Much has been written and said, my Lord, upon this interesting subject, +from authority high in rank, in talents, and situation, but still it is +involved in a perplexed labyrinth; the attainable sources of African +commerce remain unexplored, and the inhabitants of its extensive regions +are still entangled by the thraldom of barbarous customs, and superstitious +infidelity. No efficient measures have been adopted, upon practicable +grounds, to unite the views of humanity and commerce in one harmonious +compact, compatible with the present condition of Africa, its character, +its customs, and its inveterate barbarism.</p> + +<p>Benevolence has, unhappily, hitherto failed in its objects, through the +opposition of a peculiar mixture of passions, of obstinate ferocity, and +licentious and hereditary habits.</p> + +<p>To subdue the inveteracy of these evils, and to establish the +manumission of the African, alluring and progressive alterations are +necessary, compatible with his present condition, under the influence of +agriculture and mechanics, adapted to the useful purposes of life, to +commerce, and to navigation.</p> + +<p>Previous to his enfranchisement, my Lord, these must exhibit before him +their facinations upon his native plains. Too impetuous and indolent to +observe the forms, or to enter into the necessary details of business, he +views the effect without investigating the cause; but when he perceives the +former, and contemplates his own comparative wretchedness, and contracted +sphere of intellect, he will be roused from his innate indolence, his +powers will be dilated, and his emulation stimulated to attain a more +exalted state of being, while his barbarism will fall before the luminous +displays of enlightened example.</p> + +<p>Hence, to free the African, commercial and agricultural societies +adapted to the present state of the country, appear to be the most +practicable means, and the only sources of remunerative and effective +influence: but as these measures necessarily require population from the +parent state, aided by great pecuniary support, and intelligent +superintendance; the patronage of the legislature is indispensibly +requisite, to aid individual and corporate endeavours.</p> + +<p>In pursuance hereof, imperceptible and circumspect approach at +innovation upon the laws, customs, and country of Africa, are highly +expedient; the chiefs and head men claim a primary consideration; their +obstinate predilection in favour of long-existing usage must be cajoled, +the inveteracy of their jealousies and superstitions be dexterously +removed, and their sordid avarice flattered, by the judicious maxims of +policy, and by the prospects of superior gain.</p> + +<p>The slave trade, therefore, being lucrative, and of immemorial +existence, must, in the interim, pursue its present course, as a fatality +attached to the condition of Africa, and as a polluted alliance, which the +dictates of policy and humanity impose, until a succedaneum is found in its +stead.</p> + +<p>While this invidious exigency obstructs the immediate manumission of the +slave, it does not the less accelerate it in conformity thereto, but on the +contrary, is a necessary preliminary to his efficacious emancipation.</p> + +<p>Before he is admitted into the political society of his master, and is +allowed to be free, his intellectual faculties must be expanded by the +example of polished society, and by the arts of civilization.</p> + +<p>Maxims of policy, my Lord, are often apparently little consonant with +those of morality; and where an inveterate evil in society is to be +eradicated, address and delicacy in managing the humours and interests of +men, are arts requisite to success.</p> + +<p>This consideration is applicable to the present condition of the +Africans, and may perhaps justify a farther continuance of the <i>slave +trade</i>, as compatible with its <i>radical abolition</i>.</p> + +<p>The reasonings adopted by a numerous assemblage of chiefs, convened in +the retirement of the mountains of Sierra Leone, when <i>that</i> company +assumed a defensive attitude, most clearly prove this grievous +necessity.</p> + +<p>In their idiom of our language they say, "White man now come among us +with new face, talk palaver we do not understand, they bring new fashion, +great guns, and soldiers into our country, but they make no trade, or bring +any of the fine money of their country with them, therefore we must make +war, and kill these white men."</p> + +<p>This, my Lord, is an impressive epitome of the sentiments of the whole +country, and hence the impolicy of illuminating their minds and abolishing +slavery, in order to erect a system of reformation upon an invidious base +in the estimation of the governing characters of the country.</p> + +<p>With every deference, my Lord, to the wisdom and benevolence which +framed the constitution of the Sierra Leone Company, I would observe, that +had they adopted the following measures, they would before now have been +far advanced in their scheme of reformation.</p> + +<p>1st. They should have employed their funds in the established commerce +of the country. 2d. Have purchased slaves from as <i>wide an extent</i> of +native tribes as was practicable; they should have employed them in that +capacity, under the superintendence of the European colonist; have +initiated them into the arts of agriculture and useful mechanics, +manufactures, and navigation, and have instructed them in the rudiments of +letters, religion, and science, &c.</p> + +<p>3d. having arrived at this state of civilization and knowledge, their +<i>graduated manumission</i> should have proceeded in proportion to their +fidelity and attainments.</p> + +<p>And, lastly, being thus qualified, they should have employed them as the +agents to their tribe, to make known to them the arcana of wealth in their +country, dormant through hereditary barbarism and superstitious +idolatry,</p> + +<p>From the adoption of the first proposition, a facility of intercourse +with the interior and native tribes would have been acquired, and also a +knowledge of the genius, policy, customs, manners, and commercial resources +of the neighbouring nations.</p> + +<p>By the 2d, the seeds of science would have been disseminated throughout +an extended district, and a spirit of industry and enquiry would have been +infused, which, by imperceptible degrees, under the guidance of Providence, +might eventually have been spread throughout the most remote regions of +Africa.</p> + +<p>By means of the 3d, the objects of humanity would have been +realized.</p> + +<p>And by the progressive influence of the last, a system of civilization +and commercial enterprize would have been diffused, and an equivalent, in +process of time, been obtained, consistent with the cogency of existing +circumstances, and the African's present state of being.</p> + +<p>By adopting this system, my Lord, the maxims of sagacious policy, and +the claims of humanity, upon practicable principles, may be united, and +adapted to the present condition of Africa, while our commerce therewith +will be invigorated and encreased, and will flow without interruption +through a less polluted channel; the seclusion of the African from the +refined arts of society be annihilated, his jealousies allayed, his nature +regenerated, his barbarism fall before the advantages of enlightened +existence, and his enslaved customs make their natural exit, together with +the slave trade, from his shores and his country.</p> + +<p>How animating is this contemplation, my Lord, to the beneficence of +enlightened nations, and how worthy of the magnanimity of a British +government to effect!</p> + +<p>In the interim, my Lord, new and accumulated sources of commerce, &c. +will remunerate the parent state in a manner more congenial with the +natural rights of mankind, while a monumental column will be erected to +humanity, which will perpetuate its exalted benevolence, and excite the +admiration of, and be an example to, the civilized world; but if Africa is +abandoned by Great Britain, it will be subject to the rapacity of other +nations, who, <i>to my personal knowledge</i>, are <i>now</i> directing +their views towards its commerce in the contemplation of that abandonment, +and who will, no doubt, seize it with avidity, as being highly lucrative +and important; while the African's chains will still clink in the ears of +the civilized world, his fetters be rivetted more closely, and his +miserable fate be consigned to the uncertainty of human events.</p> + +<p>Finally, permit me to assure your Lordship, that I am wholly +uninfluenced, and that I am, at this moment, ignorant of the present +opinions of men in Europe upon this interesting subject, as I have just +arrived in England, and have been excluded for some time past from any +other scene but that of personal observation in Africa.</p> + +<p>I have considered the subject with deep interest, and finding the +momentous question upon the eve of being agitated by the legislature, I +have conceived it my duty, as a British commercial Subject, to give every +information to your Lordship, within my personal knowledge, and have, +therefore, obtruded my thoughts upon you; and if your Lordship deems a more +detailed and systematic view of my journals of any interest, I am ready to +unfold them with the utmost alacrity. In the interim, I am,</p> + +<center><br> +My Lord,<br> +Your Lordship's most obedient<br> +humble servant,<br> +</center><br> + +<span style="margin-left: 20em;">JOSEPH CORRY.</span><br> + +<hr> +<H2><a name=No_II>No. II.</a></H2> + + +<center><br> +<i>To the Right Honourable the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty,</i><br> +<i>referred to in the foregoing Letter to Lord Howick.</i><br> +<br> +<i>Bance Island, River Sierra Leone, Coast of Africa,</i><br> +<i>May 1st, 1806.</i><br> +</center><br> + +<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">MY LORDS,</span><br> + +<p>That consideration which has uniformly distinguished your Lordships for +the safe-guardianship of our commerce, and the property engaged in it, +stimulates me to approach your Lordships with some few observations on the +present state of the African trade, and its dependencies.</p> + +<p>My object is, to submit to your Lordships a statement of the British +capital involved in that commerce, as exemplified by the present amount of +export, diligently ascertained from the most authentic sources of +intelligence, and to offer some brief remarks on its importance to the +United Kingdom, and the necessity of a more adequate naval protection.</p> + +<p>In the first place, permit me to solicit your Lordships' attention to +the estimate of annual export from the Windward Coast of Africa. (Vide page +54.)</p> + +<p>Your Lordships will perceive, that the amount of export <i>only</i> is +here under review; and I submit to your consideration the capital vested in +the necessary shipping, also the property of British factors, resident on +the Coast, and factories belonging to merchants at home, which forms +another article of great importance.</p> + +<p>During the present war, from the Rio Noonez to the river Sierra Leone, +660 slaves, and more than the value of 100 slaves in craft, have fallen +into the hands of the enemy; which were forcibly seized upon the premises +of factories, the property of British subjects, to the amount of +35,000<i>l</i>. at the computation of 50 each, valuing them upon an +equitable average: moreover, about one hundred resident free people have +been involved in this violence, of incalculable importance, and ground of +indefinite claims from the natives.</p> + +<p>When your Lordships contemplate these facts, and the annual emolument +derived from this commerce by the government, and a numerous body of +merchants, it may be presumed that its magnitude is of sufficient +consequence to justify the expense of <i>adequate naval protection</i>.</p> + +<p>British subjects connected with, and resident on, the Coast, are +consequently become deeply interested, and are earnestly solicitous for an +extension of your Lordships' paternal care towards their possessions. The +principal amount, as before shewn, necessarily in the progress of business, +passes into currency through their hands, which, with the surplus property +they have in their stores, their buildings, and people, creates a momentous +risque, which is exposed to the predatory ravages of piccaroon privateers, +and to the hostile squadrons and depredations of the enemy.</p> + +<p>With all due retrospective reference to your Lordships' vigilance and +watchful guardianship over our commerce, I take the liberty to remind your +Lordships, that only one sloop of war, the Arab, (the Favourite being +taken) has been charged with the important office of defending an extent of +coast of upwards of 1000 miles, against the sweeping hand of the enemy; an +example of which has fatally occurred in the late destruction effected by +Commodore L'Hermitte's squadron, to the very serious injury of many British +merchants, and perhaps the ruin of many underwriters upon African +risques.</p> + +<p>From the apparent approaches the legislature appears to make towards an +abolition of the slave trade, the object of consideration for the defence +of the coast of Africa may have become of less comparative magnitude; but +when upwards of one million in export from thence, and its enumerated +appendages, are entangled, and at imminent hazard, an animated and +impressive appeal is made your Lordships for every practicable security, +while it remains in existence; and to the legislative wisdom, for a +remuneration commensurate thereto, in the event of its annihilation.</p> + +<p>Trusting that your Lordships will deign to recognize the importance of +this subject, and will vouchsafe to pardon my temerity in assuming to +suggest to your Lordships' wisdom the expediency of establishing a more +adequate and permanent naval force for the protection of the trade and +coast of Africa, I am,</p> + +<center><br> +My Lord,<br> +Your Lordship's most obedient<br> +devoted humble servant,<br> +</center><br> + +<span style="margin-left: 20em;">JOSEPH CORRY.</span><br> + +<hr> +<H2><a name=No_III>No. III.</a></H2> + + +<p>When the foregoing narrative and observations were prepared for the +press, the original minutes from whence the following Appendix is compiled, +had not come to hand, as they remained with a part of my papers, which I +have since received from the coast of Africa.</p> + +<p>The substance of these miscellaneous fragments I shall divide into +sections, descriptive of the different subjects to which they allude, and +it may be found that they illustrate more fully many of the foregoing +remarks upon the Windward Coast of Africa.</p> + +<hr> +<H3><a name=SECTION_I>SECTION I.</a></H3> + +<p><i>Of the Purrah</i>.</p> + +<p>Among the singular customs of the inhabitants of Africa, there exists in +the vicinity of the Sierra Leone, and more particularly among the mixed +tribes of the Foolahs, Soosees, Boolams, &c. an institution of a religious +and political nature. It is a confederation by a solemn oath, and binds its +members to inviolable secrecy not to discover its mysteries, and to yield +an implicit obedience to superiors, called by the natives the +<i>Purrah</i>.</p> + +<p>As it is dangerous to enquire from the natives, and consequently +difficult to procure information on this subject, conjecture must supply +the want of oral and ocular testimony; but what I have here advanced I had +from an intelligent chief, who was a member of the society, who, I am +nevertheless convinced, preserved his integrity, in communicating the +following particulars, as I never could induce him to touch upon any part +of the mysteries, which he acknowledged to exist, but spoke of them with +the utmost reserve.</p> + +<p>The members of this secret tribunal are under the supreme control of a +sovereign, whose superior, or <i>head man</i>, commands by his council, +absolute submission and authority from the subordinate councils and +members.</p> + +<p>To be admitted into the confederacy it is necessary to be thirty years +of age; and to be a member of the grand <i>purrah</i>, fifty years; and the +oldest member of the subordinate <i>purrahs</i> form those of the sovereign +<i>purrahs</i>.</p> + +<p>No candidate is admitted but at the recommendation and responsibility of +members, who imprecate his death, if he betrays fear during his initiation +into the ceremonies, or the sacred mysteries of the association; from which +females are entirely excluded.</p> + +<p>Some months elapse, in the preparation for admission, and the candidate +passes through the severest trials, in which every dreadful expedient is +employed to ascertain his firmness of mind, and courage.</p> + +<p>The candidate is conducted to a sacred wood, where a place is appointed +for his habitation, from which he dares not absent himself; if he does, he +is immediately surrounded and struck dead. His food is supplied by men +masked, and he must observe an uniform silence.</p> + +<p>Fires, during the night, surround these woods, to preserve them +inviolate from the unhallowed steps of curiosity, into which if +indiscretion tempts any one to enter, a miserable exit is the result.</p> + +<p>When the trials are all gone through, <i>initiation</i> follows; the +candidate is first sworn to secrecy, to execute implicitly the decrees of +the <i>purrah</i> of his order, and to be devoted to the commands of the +<i>sovereign purrah</i>.</p> + +<p>During the process of initiation, the hallowed woods resound with +dreadful howlings, shrieks, and other horrid noises, accompanied by +conflagrations and flames.</p> + +<p>This secret and inquisitorial tribunal takes cognizance of crimes and +delinquencies, more especially witchcraft and murder; and also operates as +a mediator in wars, and dissentions among powerful tribes and chiefs. Its +interference is generally attended with effect, more particularly if +accompanied by a threat of vengeance from the <i>purrah</i>; and a +suspension of hostilities is scrupulously observed, until it is determined +who is the aggressor; while this investigation takes place by the sovereign +<i>purrah</i>, as many of the warriors are convoked, as they conceive +necessary to enforce their judgment, which usually consigns the guilty to a +pillage of some days. To execute the decree, they avail themselves of the +night to depart from the place where the sovereign <i>purrah</i> is +assembled, previously disguising their persons with hideous objects, and +dividing themselves into detachments, armed with torches and warlike +weapons; they arrive at the village of the condemned, and proclaim with +tremendous yells the decree of the sovereign <i>purrah</i>. The affrighted +victims of superstition and injustice are either murdered or made captives, +and no longer form a people among the tribes.</p> + +<p>The produce arising from this horrid and indiscriminate execution of the +decrees of this tribunal is divided equally between the injured tribe, and +the sovereign <i>purrah</i>; the latter share is again subdivided among the +warriors employed in the execution of its diabolical decree, as a +recompense for their zeal, obedience, and promptitude.</p> + +<p>The families of the tribes under the dominion of this infernal +confederacy, when they become objects of suspicion or rivalry, are +subjected to immediate pillage, and if they resist, are dragged into their +secret recesses, where they are condemned, and consigned to oblivion.</p> + +<p>Its supreme authority is more immediately confined to the Sherbro; and +the natives of the Bay of Sierra Leone speak of it with reserve and dread: +they consider the brotherhood as having intercourse with the <i>bad +spirit</i>, or devil, and that they are sorcerers, and invulnerable to +human power. Of course the <i>purrah</i> encourages these superstitious +prejudices, which establish their authority and respect, as the members are +numerous, and are known to each other by certain signs and expressions. The +Mandingos have also their sacred woods and mysteries, where, by their +delusions and exorcisms, they prepare their children for circumcision.</p> + +<p>The Soosees, inhabiting the borders of the Rio Pongo, have a species of +<i>purrah</i>, which gives its members great consequence among them; but +their ceremonies are kept also with inviolable secrecy, and they are bound +by horrid oaths and incantations. These people seem to delight in +disseminating improbable tales of their institution, and their invention +appears to be exhausted in superstitious legends of its mysteries.</p> + +<p>The Timmanees have an inquisitorial institution called <i>bunda</i>, +noticed in page 72, to which women only are subjected. The season of +penitence is superintended by an elderly woman, called <i>bunda</i> woman; +and fathers even consign their wives and daughters to her investigation +when they become objects of suspicion. Here is extracted from them an +unreserved confession of every crime committed by themselves, or to which +they are privy in others. Upon their admission they are besmeared with +white clay, which obliterates every trace of human appearance, and they are +solemnly abjured to make an unequivocal confession; which if not complied +with, they are threatened with death as the inevitable consequence. The +general result is a discovery of fact and falsehood, in proportion as their +fears of punishment are aroused, which the <i>bunda</i> woman makes known +to the people who assemble in the village or town where the <i>bunda</i> is +instituted. If she is satisfied with the confession, the individual is +dismissed from the <i>bunda</i>, and, as is noticed in Chapter VII. an act +of oblivion is passed relative to her former conduct; but where the crime +of witchcraft is included, slavery is uniformly the consequence: those +accused as partners of her guilt are obliged to undergo the ordeal by +<i>red water</i>, redeem themselves by slaves, or go into slavery +themselves.</p> + +<p>When the <i>bunda</i> woman is dissatisfied with the confessions, she +makes the object sit down, and after rubbing poisonous leaves, procured for +the purpose, between her hands, and infusing them in water, she makes her +drink in proportion to its strength. It naturally occasions pain in the +bowels, which is considered as an infallible evidence of guilt. +Incantations and charms are then resorted to by the <i>bunda</i> woman, to +ascertain what the concealed crime is, and after a <i>decent</i> period +employed in this buffoonery, the charges are brought in conformity with the +imagination or malignity of this priestess of mystery and iniquity.</p> + +<p>During the continuance of this engine of avarice, oppression, and fraud +in any town, the chiefs cause their great drum and other instruments of +music to be continually in action, and every appearance of festive hilarity +pervades among the inhabitants, accompanied by the song and the dance.</p> + +<p>Contumacy, or a refusal to confess, is invariably followed by death.</p> + +<p>In short, the bewildered natives feel the effects, and dread the power +of these extraordinary institutions; they know they exist, but their +deliberations and mysteries are impenetrably concealed from them; and the +objects of their vengeance are in total ignorance, until the annihilating +stroke of death terminates their mortal career.</p> + +<p>It is impossible to contemplate the religious institutions, and +superstitious customs of the western nations of Africa, north of the +equator, without closely assimilating them with those of Ethiopia and +Egypt; and from hence to infer that a correspondence has existed between +the eastern and western inhabitants of this great continent.</p> + +<hr> +<H3><a name=SECTION_II>SECTION II.</a></H3> + +<p><i>Of the</i> Termite, Termes, <i>or</i> Bug a Bug, <i>as it is called +by the Natives upon the Windward Coast of Africa.</i></p> + +<p>Among the insects mentioned in page 36, the <i>termite, termes</i>, or +<i>bug a bug</i>, attracts peculiar notice. The following observations are +derived from the investigations I occasionally made upon the Island of +Tasso, attached to Bance Island, where they abound, and indeed in nearly +all the western countries of Africa.</p> + +<p>The oeconomy of nature, and the wisdom of Providence, are wonderfully +displayed in these little animals; for although they occasion the utmost +devastation to buildings, utensils, and all kinds of household furniture +and merchandize, and indeed every thing except metal and stone, yet they +answer highly important purposes in demolishing the immense quantity of +putrid substances, which load the earth in tropical climates.</p> + +<p>Their astonishing peculiarities cannot fail to excite the notice of an +attentive observer; the sagacity and ingenuity they display in their +buildings, their industry, and the plunder and devastation they commit, is +incredible to those who have not witnessed their communities and empires. +They are divided into innumerable societies, and acknowledge a king and +queen, the former of which I brought to Europe, but the latter was by +accident mislaid at sea. Linnaeus denominates the African <i>bug a bug, +Termes</i>, and describes it as the plague of the Indies. Every community, +as I have observed, has a king and queen, and the monarchy, if I may be +allowed the expression, forms three distinct orders of insects, in three +states of existence; of every species there are likewise three orders, +which differ very essentially in the functions they have to perform, and +are in appearance very different.</p> + +<p>In their primitive state, they are perfectly white; they have six little +feet, three on each side, and a small head, in which I could perceive no +eyes, after a minute investigation with a microscope. In this state they +supply the community with provisions from subterraneous cavities, fabricate +their pyramidical buildings, and may with great propriety be called +labourers.</p> + +<p>In a few weeks they destroy the largest trunks of trees, carry away all +descriptions of putrid substances, and particles of vegetable decay, which, +in such a climate as Africa, amply compensates for the ruin which they +otherwise occasion.</p> + +<p>Their buildings are contrived and finished with great ingenuity and +solidity, to a magnitude infinitely beyond the erections of man, when a +comparative dimension of size is considered.</p> + +<p>They are usually termed hills, and are generally in a conical form, from +10 to 12 feet in perpendicular height, and frequently upwards of 100 feet +square in the base.</p> + +<p>For a considerable period, vegetation is banished from the surface of +their abode, but from the second to the third year, it becomes like the +surrounding soil. The exterior forms a crust, which shelters the interior +from the weather, and the community from the attacks of enemies. The +interior is divided into almost innumerable chambers or apartments, with +amazing regularity and contrivance; in the centre of which is the royal +residence of the king and queen, composed of solid clay, closely compacted, +and distinct from the external habitation, which accommodate their +subjects. It appears that the royal erection is the first which occupies +the attention of the labourers, as it is central in the foundation of the +hill which composes the empire at large. This makes its first appearance +above the surface of the earth in various turrets, in the form of a sugar +loaf, from which they increase their number, widening them from the base; +the middle one is the highest and largest, and they fill up the spaces as +they proceed, until the whole is formed into one.</p> + +<p>This compact construction is admirably adapted to guard against external +violence, and to preserve a genial warmth and moisture to cherish the +hatching of the eggs, and the young.</p> + +<p>The queen is by far the largest, and has an unwieldy body, of enormous +dimensions, when compared with her subjects; so also is the king, but +inferior in size to the queen.</p> + +<p>The royal residence is a full constructed hill, surrounded by an +innumerable number of others, differing in shape and dimensions, arched in +various forms, circular, and elliptical, which communicate by passages, +occupied by guards and attendants, and surrounded by nurseries and +magazines. But when the community is in an infant state, these are +contiguous to the royal residence; and in proportion as the size of the +queen increases, her chamber is enlarged, and her attendants and apartments +multiplied.</p> + +<p>The construction of the outward apartments which surround the central +royal residence, that of the <i>common father</i> and <i>mother</i> of the +community, form an intricate labyrinth of nurseries and magazines, +separated by chambers and galleries, communicating with each other, and +continuing towards the surface of the pyramid; and being arched, they +support each other, and are uniformly larger towards the centre.</p> + +<p>The second order of <i>termes</i> are like the first, blind and active, +but they undergo a change of form, approaching to the perfect state; they +are much larger, and increase from about a quarter of an inch in length to +half an inch, and greater in bulk; and what is still more remarkable, the +mouth is armed with sharp claws, and the head is disproportionably +enlarged. They may properly be called the nurses and warriors of the +kingdom; they urge their fellow subjects in the <i>first</i> state to +labour, they inspect the construction of the interior apartments, repel all +attacks from enemies, and devour them with fury; and may be considered as +the standing army of the state.</p> + +<p>In the third and last stage, they are winged; their bodies then measure +about 7/8ths of an inch in length, furnished with four brownish transparent +wings, rather large; they have eyes also of a disproportionate size, +visible to the observer. When they make their appearance in this state, it +is indicative of the approach of the rainy season. At this period they +procreate their species.</p> + +<p>They seldom wait before they take wing for a second or third shower; and +should the rain happen in the night, the quantities of them which are found +the next morning upon the surface of the earth, and on the waters, more +particularly upon the latter, are astonishing. The term of existence at +this stage is extremely short, and frequently on the following morning +after they have taken flight, they are surprisingly weakened and decreased; +at the utmost I do not think they live more than two days; and these +insects, so industrious, courageous, and destructive in the two first +periods of their existence, become the prey of innumerable enemies. +Indolent, and incapable of resisting the smallest insects, they are hunted +by various species from place to place, and not one pair in millions get +into a place of safety, to fulfil the laws of nature and propagation.</p> + +<p>Their wings in a short time fall from them, and the ponds and brooks are +covered with their carcases. The Negroes in many places collect them in +their calabashes, dry them, and fry them on a slow fire, which they +consider as a delicious morsel.</p> + +<p>A few, however, escape the general dissolution, several pairs of them +are found by those of the first genus, as they are continually moving over +the surface of the earth, and are carried by them to found new kingdoms and +communities. The royal mansion is then erected, as before described, their +wings fall off, and they pass the remainder of their existence in indolence +and luxury, and in the propagation of their species. Their dimensions now +undergo a monstrous change, more especially the queen; her abdomen augments +by degrees, and increases to a prodigious size, when compared with her two +first stages of existence; and the king, although greatly augmented, yet is +diminutive compared to his enormous spouse, who sometimes exceeds three +inches in length. She is in this state extremely prolific, and the matrix +is almost perpetually yielding eggs, which are taken from her by her +attendants, and are carried into the adjoining nurseries.</p> + +<p>The foregoing is a very imperfect delineation of this wonderful insect, +which requires the minutest description by an experienced and scientific +naturalist to illustrate clearly; and there are many secrets in the natural +history of this little animal that would amply reward his investigation +upon the different circumstances attending its existence.</p> + +<p>Those that build in trees, or erect pyramids, have a strong resemblance +to each other, and pass through the same stages to the winged state, but +they are not of so large a size as the foregoing; and it is a very singular +circumstance, that of all these different species, neither the labourers +nor soldiers expose themselves to the open air, but travel in subterraneous +vaults, unless when they are obstructed and impelled by necessity; and when +their covered ways and habitations are destroyed, it is wonderful how +quickly they will rebuild them. I have frequently destroyed them in the +evening, and have found them re-erected on the following morning.</p> + +<p>When a pair, in the perfect state, is rescued from the general +devastation which attends these little animals, they are by the two first +species elected king and queen, and are inclosed in a chamber, as before +described, around which a new empire is formed, and pyramids are +erected.</p> + +<p>That species which builds in trees, frequently establish their abode in +houses also, which in time they will entirely destroy, if not extirpated. +The large kind, however, are more destructive, and more difficult to guard +against, as their approaches are principally made under-ground, and below +the foundation; they rise either in the floors, or under the posts, which +in African buildings support the roof, and as they proceed, they form +cavities towards the top, similar to the holes bored in the bottom of ships +by the worms, which appear to answer the same purpose in water as the +<i>termites</i> do upon land. How convincing is this fact of the infinitely +wise arrangements of the Creator, who has united, in the whole system of +creation, one uniform conformation of order and utility; for although the +<i>vermis</i>, or worm, which is so pernicious to shipping in tropical +climates, and the <i>termite</i>, possess so many destructive qualities, +yet these very properties serve the most important purposes and designs. +Scarcely any thing perishable on land escapes the <i>termite</i>, or in +water, the worm; and it is from thence evident, that these animals are +designed by nature to rid both of incumbrances, which in tropical climates +would be attended with putrefaction and disease.</p> + +<p>The first object which strikes the attention, and excites admiration, +upon opening and investigating the hills of the <i>termites</i>, is, the +conduct of the armed species, or soldiers; when a breach is made by a +pick-axe, or hoe, they instantaneously sally forth in small parties round +the breach, as if to oppose the enemy, or to examine the nature of the +attack, and the numbers increase to an incredible degree as long as it +continues; parties frequently return as if to give the alarm to the whole +community, and then rush forth again with astonishing fury. At this period +they are replete with rage, and make a noise which is very distinguishable, +and is similar to the ticking of a watch; if any object now comes in +contact with them, they seize it, and never quit their hold until they are +literally torn in pieces. When the violence against their habitation +ceases, they retire into their nests, as if nothing had happened, and the +observer will instantaneously perceive the labourers at work, with a +burthen of mortar in their mouths, which they stick upon the breach with +wonderful facility and quickness; and although thousands and millions are +employed, yet they never embarrass the proceedings of each other, but +gradually fill up the chasm. While the labourers are thus employed, the +greatest part of the soldiers retire, a few only being discernible, who +evidently act as overseers, and at intervals of about a minute, make the +vibrating noise before described, which is immediately answered by an +universal hiss from the labourers, and at this signal they redouble their +exertions with encreased activity.</p> + +<p>In minutely examining these hills, great obstacles present themselves to +the observer; the apartments and nurseries which surround the royal +habitation, and the whole internal fabric, are formed of moist brittle +clay, and are so closely connected, that they can only be examined +separately, for having a geometrical dependance upon each other, the +demolition of one pulls down more; patience is therefore exhausted in the +investigation, and it is impossible to proceed without interruption; for +while the soldiers are employed in defending the breach, the labourers are +engaged in barricading the different galleries and passages towards the +royal chamber. In one apartment which I dug out from a hill, I was forcibly +struck with their attachment and allegiance to their sovereigns; and as it +is capacious enough to hold a great number of attendants, of which it has a +constant supply, I had a fair opportunity offered for experiment, I secured +it in a small box; and these faithful creatures never abandoned their +charge; they were continually running about their king and queen, stopping +at every circuit, as if to administer to them, and to receive their +commands.</p> + +<p>Upon exposing their different avenues and chambers for a night only, +before the next morning, provided the king and queen are preserved, and +their apartments remain, it will be found that they are all shut up with a +thin covering of clay, and every interstice in the ruins, through which +either cold or wet could communicate, filled up, which is continued with +unremitting industry until the building is restored to its pristine +state.</p> + +<p>Besides these species, there are also the <i>marching termites</i>, of +an encreased size, who make excursions in large bodies, and spread +devastation in their way; but as my means of observation upon them was only +accidental, it will be intruding an imperfect description to notice them at +all; but if we form a conclusion from the immense number of <i>termites</i> +which everywhere abound in Africa, we shall be tempted to believe that +their procreation is endless and unceasing.</p> + +<p>When the papers came to hand which contained the substance of these +remarks upon this extraordinary insect, I did not intend to annex them to +the Observations on the Windward Coast of Africa, nor am I without some +doubt as to the propriety of so doing; the observation of the learned +<i>naturalist</i> only can ascertain the economy of the <i>termite</i>, or +<i>bug a bug</i>, and I have therefore to apologize for obtruding these +imperfect and general remarks.</p> + +<hr> +<H3><a name=SECTION_III>SECTION III.</a></H3> + +<p><i>Of the Cameleon</i>.</p> + +<p>The cameleon is a native of the torrid zone, and is a genus of the +lizard: the faculty of assuming the colour of every object it approaches is +ascribed to it, and other singular properties; but there are many rare +phoenomena not so well understood, such as its absorption and expulsion of +air at pleasure, its property of living a considerable time without any +kind of nourishment, and its extraordinary visual advantages, which are +perhaps not to be found in any other of the wonderful works of the +creation.</p> + +<p>I have made various experiments to ascertain these extraordinary +properties in this little animal; and I brought home one in a preserved +state.</p> + +<p>The first object which struck my attention, was the variation of colour; +and I am persuaded that it does not assume these from the surrounding +objects, but that they proceed from internal sensations of pain, or +otherwise.</p> + +<p>From the moment that the liberty of my captive was infringed upon, or +when interrupted in its pursuits, it became less sensible of external +objects, the vivacity of its colour, and the plumpness of its form +underwent a visible change. Its natural colour is a beautiful green; and +when in a state of liberty it is to be found in the grass, or lodged on the +branches of some tree, ornamented with the gayest foilage; and it would +appear that its liberty, and the privilege of living in the grass, are +indispensible towards the preservation of its qualities. The colour of its +skin, in a perfect state of health, is scarcely discernible from the trees +and grass, in which it delights to conceal itself, and is not to be +discovered at all without a very minute scrutiny. It remains immoveable for +a length of time, and its motions are all cautious and slow, continuing to +loll out its tongue, which is long and glutinous, in order to secure the +little insects that are necessary to its nourishment; and I doubt not but +it has an attractive influence over its prey, for I have observed them +continually floating around the cameleon, when scarcely discernible in any +other space. When the tongue is covered with a sufficient quantity it draws +it in instantaneously, and by incessantly repeating the operation, all the +insects within its reach are taken in the snare.</p> + +<p>That its health and existence depend upon being in the grass, I am +persuaded, from the change occasioned by placing it in gravel or sand, when +it immediately assumes a yellow tinge, its form is reduced considerably, +and the air expelled, with which the body of this animal is inflated, so as +visibly to reduce the size. If they are irritated in this situation, they +expell the air so strong as even to be heard, gradually decreasing in size, +and becoming more dull in colour, until at length they are almost black; +but upon being carried into the grass, or placed on the branches of a tree, +they quickly assume their wonted solidity and appearance.</p> + +<p>The victims of my observation I have frequently wrapped in cloth of +various colours, and have left them for a considerable time, but when I +visited them I did not find that they partook of any of the colours, but +uniformly were of a tarnished yellow, or greyish black, the colours they +always assume when in a state of suffering and distress, and I never could +succeed in making them take any other when in a situation of constraint. +The skin of the cameleon is of a very soft and delicate texture, and +appears to the observer similar to a shagreen skin, elastic and pliable; +and it may be owing to this extraordinary construction that it changes its +colours and size with that facility which astonishes us; but what may be +considered as a more wonderful faculty is, its expanding and contracting +itself at pleasure, and, as it were, retaining the fluid in an uniform +manner, when in health, but exhaling it when in a state of suffering, so as +to reduce its dimensions to a more contracted size. Its peculiar +organization is such, that the atmospheric air which it inhales so +generally throughout every part of its body, distends and projects even its +eyes and extremities. I have frequently seen it after many days fasting +become suddenly plump, and continue so for a fortnight, when immediately it +became nothing but a skeleton of skin and bone.</p> + +<p>The tenuity of its body is at these seasons astonishing, the spine of +its back becomes pointed, the flesh of its sides adhere to each other, and +apparently form one united subsance, when it will, in a few hours, at +pleasure, resume its rotund state; and this appears to me to be a most +extraordinary circumstance in the construction of this animal, which +invites the minutest research of the naturalist.</p> + +<p>To convince myself how far the assertion might be admitted, that the +cameleon can exist upon air, I have placed them in a cage, so constructed, +as to exclude any thing else, even the minutest insect; when I have visited +my captives, they have opened their mouths and expelled the air towards me +so as to be felt and heard. In the first stage of their privation and +imprisonment, which has continued for more than a month, I have found them +in continual motion around their prison, but afterwards their excursions +became more circumscribed, and they have sunk to the bottom, when their +powers of distension and contraction became languid and decreased, and were +never again capable of performing their accustomed transformation. The one +which I brought to England preserved in spirits, after undergoing upwards +of two months of famine, when I carried it among the grass, or placed it in +the thick foliage of a tree, in little more than a week regained its green +colour, and power of expansion; but not contented with my experiment, and +determined to ascertain it to the utmost, I redoubled my precautions to +exclude every thing but air, and my devoted victim was doomed to another +series of trial, and continued to exist upwards of a month, when it fell a +sacrifice to my curiosity.</p> + +<p>The eyes of the cameleon may also be considered a remarkable +singularity; they are covered with a thin membrane, which nature has given +it to supply the want of eye-lids, and this membrane is sunk in the centre +by a lengthened hole, which forms an orifice, bordered by a shining circle. +This covering follows all the motions of the eye so perfectly, that they +appear to be one and the same; and the aperture, or lengthened hole, is +always central to the pupil, the eyes moving in every direction, +independant of each other; one eye will be in motion while the other is +fixed, one looking behind while the other is looking before, and another +directed above while its companion is fixed on the earth, so that its eyes +move in every possible direction, independant of each other, without moving +the head, which is closely compacted with the shoulders.</p> + +<p>By these quick evolutions its personal safety is guarded, and it +perceives with quickness the insects and flies, which it is always +entrapping by its glutinous tongue.</p> + +<p>Without doubt, this species of lizard possesses peculiarities well +worthy the attention of naturalists, who only can define them; what I have +said I have observed in my leisure moments, and must be considered as a +very imperfect detail of its natural history.</p> + +<hr> +<H3><a name=SECTION_IV>SECTION IV.</a></H3> + +<p><i>Of the Interment of the Dead.</i></p> + +<p>The ceremony of burial upon the Windward Coast of Africa is conducted +with great singularity, solemnity, and extravagant circumstances of +condolence.</p> + +<p>The body of the deceased is wrapped up in a cloth, closely sewed around +it, and the head is covered with a white cap of cotton, which is the colour +universally adopted in mourning. The relatives of the deceased bedaub +themselves from head to foot with white clay, upon which they form the most +disgusting figures, while scarcely a leg or an arm exhibits the same +feature. I have even seen serpents and other frightful animals delineated +with great accuracy on many parts of the body, which gives them a most +hideous appearance during the season of mourning.</p> + +<p>When the corps has been washed, and put into a white cloth of cotton, of +the manufacture of the country, the whole is inclosed in a mat, and laid +out in state.</p> + +<p>The corps is placed over the grave upon four sticks across, and after +one of the nearest relatives has collected all the finery with which the +deceased was accustomed to decorate himself, and that also which remains +among his family, he asks him, with expressions of sorrow, if he wants such +and such an article for his comfort in the other world, in which he is +accompanied by the remainder of his family and friends, who join in +<i>making cry,</i> or more property speaking, in dancing and rejoicing. The +following night the dance and song is continued with demonstrations of +mirth and glee, and are kept up every successive night during that moon; +and if the deceased has been of consequence in his tribe, these extravagant +acts of lamentation continue for months together.</p> + +<p><i>On the Amusements, Musical Instruments, &c. of the Africans.</i></p> + +<p>Upon all occasions of mirth or sorrow, the dance is uniformly +introduced, with monotonous songs, sometimes tender and agreeable, at other +times savage and ferocious, but always accompanied by a slow movement; and +it may with propriety be said, that all the nights in Africa are spent in +dancing; for after the setting of the sun, every village resounds with +songs, and music; and I have often listened to them with attention and +pleasure, during the tranquil evenings of the dry season.</p> + +<p>Villages a league distant from each other frequently perform the same +song, and alternately change it, for hours together. While this harmonic +correspondence continues, and the inhabitants of the neighbouring villages +chaunt their couplets, the youth of both sexes listen with the greatest +attention and pleasure.</p> + +<p>Among the several kinds of instruments of music which accompany the +ceremonies of mourning or mirth among the Africans, the drum is the +principal. It is made from a hard thin wood, about three feet long, which +is covered with a skin distended to the utmost. They strike it with the +fingers of the right hand collected together, which serves to beat time in +all their dances. Among the Foulahs and Soosees they have a kind of flute, +made of a hard reed, which produces sounds both unmusical and harsh: but +all the Africans of the Windward district are the most barbarous musicians +that can be conceived.</p> + +<p>They have also a kind of guitar, formed from the calabash, which they +call <i>kilara</i>. Some of these are of an enormous size, and the musician +performs upon it by placing himself on the ground, and putting the +<i>kilara</i> between his thighs; he performs on it with both his hands, in +a manner similar to the playing on the harp in this country.</p> + +<p>They have another instrument of a very complicated construction, about +two feet deep, four feet long, and eighteen inches wide, which they call +<i>balafau</i>. It is constructed by parallel intervals, covered with bits +of hard polished wood, so as to give each a different tone, and are +connected by cords of catgut fastened at each extremity of the instrument. +The musician strikes these pieces of wood with knobbed sticks covered with +skin, which produces a most detestable jargon of confused noise.</p> + +<p>Jugglers and buffoons are very common, and are the constant attendants +of the courts of Negro kings and princes, upon whom they lavish the most +extravagant eulogiums, and abject flattery. These jesters are also the +panders of concupiscense; they are astrologers, musicians, and poets, and +are well received every where, and live by public contribution.</p> + +<hr> +<H3><a name=SECTION_V>SECTION V.</a></H3> + +<p><i>Concluding Observations.</i></p> + +<p>It has already been observed that cotton and indigo are indigenous to +the Windward Coast of Africa. Tobacco grows in every direction, likewise +cocoa, coffee, and aromatic plants would no doubt succeed by cultivation. A +trade in raw hides might be carried on to a great extent; and the articles +of wax, gold, ivory, emery, dyes, &c. might be greatly increased. +Substances for making soap are to be found in great abundance; cattle, +poultry, different kinds of game, fish, and various animals, fruits, and +roots, abound, affording a great variety of the necessaries and luxuries of +life: and European art and industry are only wanting to introduce the +extensive culture of the sugar cane. The warmth and nature of the climate +are peculiarly adapted to the maturing this plant, and there are many +situations from Cape Verde to Cape Palmas, where this valuable production +might undoubtedly be raised to great amount and perfection.</p> + +<p>In addition to the woods I have already named, there are many others for +building, viz. <i>todso, worsmore,</i> and a fine yellow wood, called +<i>barzilla</i>, the <i>black</i> and the <i>white mangrove</i>, boxwood of +a superior quality, <i>conta</i>, a remarkable fine wood for building, and +various kinds of mahogany, of a beautiful colour, and large dimensions.</p> + +<p>It has also been observed in the previous section, that one of the +musical instruments used by the Africans of the Windward Coast, named by +them <i>kilara</i>, is formed from the calabash, a pumpkin which grows from +the size of a goblet to that of a moderate sized tub, and serves every +purpose almost of household utensils.</p> + +<p>They divide this pumpkin into two hemispheres, with the utmost accuracy, +and it is excavated by pouring boiling water inside, to soften the pulp. +The inside is cleaned with great neatness, and they execute upon the +outside various designs and paintings, both fanciful and eccentric, such as +birds, beasts, serpents, alligators, &c.</p> + +<p>In fine, the objects of commerce and enjoyment in this country are, +comparatively speaking, inexhaustible; and this is a part of the world +which England has hitherto strangely neglected, because its mysteries are +unknown. It only requires the happy influence of civilization, agriculture, +and natural commerce, to surprize and enrich those, who humanely and wisely +interfere to procure these blessings to its inhabitants.</p> + +<p>The system of establishment to attain these important ends to our +commerce, and to the bewildered African, should be skilfully planned, and +wisely adapted to the <i>present condition</i> of the country, for the +<i>hasty conclusion of the abolition of the slave trade never can, in its +present state, meet the views and objects of rational humanity</i>. Is the +United Kingdom, at this crisis, when the enormous power of our adversary +has shut the door of commerce against us in every direction where his +influence and dictates command, to abandon Africa, so abundant and +versatile in its natural productions and resources, to contingencies, and +to the grasp of other nations? Forbid it, humanity, and forbid it, wise +policy! Let civil laws, religion, and morality, exercise their influence in +behalf of the Negro race, whom barbarism has subjected to our dominion, and +let the beneficence and wisdom of Government devise a system of agriculture +and commercial operation, upon the maritime situations of Africa, as the +most effectual means to freedom of intercourse with its interior.</p> + +<p>The operations of impracticable theories and misguided zeal have +accomplished an unqualified abolition of the slave trade, which I am +persuaded will be highly injurious to the commercial and manufacturing +interests of our country; and is a measure which humanity will have deeply +to deplore, while in its tendency it is pernicious to the African, and +auspicious to the views of France.</p> + +<p>Without doubt the ability and energies of the <i>present +administration</i> will be directed to avert these calamities; and amidst +the <i>important diliberations</i> which now occupy their attention, the +condition of Africa, the wealth derivable from so important a quarter of +the earth, and the relations involved with it, will not be overlooked by +them.</p> + +<center><br> +A VOCABULARY<br> +OF THE<br> +LANGUAGE OF THE PRINCIPAL NATIONS OF THE<br> +WINDWARD COAST OF AFRICA.<br> +</center><br> +<br> + +<table> +<tr><td>ENGLISH</td><td>JOLLIFF</td><td>SOOSEE</td><td>TIMMANEE</td></tr> +<tr><td>——————</td><td>—————————-</td><td>——————————</td><td>————————</td></tr> +<tr><td>One</td><td>Ben</td><td>Kiring</td><td>Pen</td></tr> +<tr><td>Two</td><td>Yar</td><td>Faring</td><td>Prung</td></tr> +<tr><td>Three</td><td>Niet</td><td>Shooking</td><td>Tisas</td></tr> +<tr><td>Four</td><td>Nianett</td><td>Nari</td><td>Pánlee</td></tr> +<tr><td>Five</td><td>Gurum</td><td>Shooli</td><td>Tomát</td></tr> +<tr><td>Six</td><td>Gurum ben</td><td>Shinie</td><td>Rókin</td></tr> +<tr><td>Seven</td><td>Gurum yar</td><td>Shulifiring</td><td>Dayring</td></tr> +<tr><td>Eight</td><td>Gurum Niet</td><td>Shulimashukúng</td><td>Daysas</td></tr> +<tr><td>Nine</td><td>Gurum Niant</td><td>Shulimang</td><td>Daynga</td></tr> +<tr><td>Ten</td><td>Fue</td><td>Fooang</td><td>Tofot</td></tr> +<tr><td>Twenty</td><td>Nill</td><td>Mahwinia</td><td>Tofot Marung</td></tr> +<tr><td>Thirty</td><td>Fanever</td><td>Tongashukúng</td><td>Tofot Masas</td></tr> +<tr><td>Forty</td><td>Nianett Fue</td><td>Tonganani</td><td>Tofot Manlu</td></tr> +<tr><td>Fifty</td><td>Guaum Fue</td><td>Tongashulang</td><td>Tofot Tomat</td></tr> +<tr><td>Sixty</td><td>Gurum ben Fue</td><td>Tongashini</td><td>Tofot Rokin</td></tr> +<tr><td>Seventy</td><td>Gurum yar Fue</td><td>Tongashulifiring</td><td>Tofot Dayring</td></tr> +<tr><td>Eighty</td><td>Gurum Niet Fue</td><td>Tongashulimashakung</td><td>Tofot Daysas</td></tr> +<tr><td>Ninety</td><td>Gurum Nianet Fue</td><td>Tongashulimanáne</td><td>Tofot Danygah</td></tr> +<tr><td>One Hundred</td><td>Temer</td><td>Kimé</td><td>Tofot Tofot</td></tr> +<tr><td>I</td><td></td><td>Emtang</td><td>Eto or Munga</td></tr> +<tr><td>Thou</td><td></td><td>Etang</td><td>Moota or Moonga</td></tr> +<tr><td>He</td><td></td><td>Atang</td><td>Otto or Ken</td></tr> +<tr><td>It</td><td></td><td>Atang</td><td>Ree</td></tr> +<tr><td>We</td><td></td><td>Mackutang</td><td>Sitta or Shang</td></tr> +<tr><td>Ye</td><td></td><td>Wotang</td><td>Angsha</td></tr> +<tr><td>They</td><td></td><td>Etang</td><td>Angna</td></tr> +<tr><td>God</td><td>Tallah</td><td></td><td></td></tr> +<tr><td>The Devil</td><td>Ghiné</td><td></td><td></td></tr> +<tr><td>Heaven</td><td>Assaman</td><td></td><td></td></tr> +</table> + +<br> + +<table> +<tr><td>ENGLISH</td><td>JOLLIFF</td><td>SOOSEE</td><td>MANDINGO</td></tr> +<tr><td>——————</td><td>——————————</td><td>———————-</td><td>—————————</td></tr> +<tr><td>The Sun</td><td>Burham Safara</td><td>Shuge</td><td>Teelee</td></tr> +<tr><td>The Moon</td><td>Burham Safara Lion</td><td>Kige</td><td>Koro</td></tr> +<tr><td>Gold</td><td>Ourous</td><td></td><td>Sanoo</td></tr> +<tr><td>Father</td><td>Bail</td><td>Taffe</td><td>Fa</td></tr> +<tr><td>My Father</td><td>Samma Bail</td><td></td><td></td></tr> +<tr><td>Mother</td><td>De</td><td>Inga</td><td>Ba</td></tr> +<tr><td>My Mother</td><td>Samma De</td><td></td><td></td></tr> +<tr><td>Man</td><td>Gour</td><td></td><td>Mo or Fato</td></tr> +<tr><td>Woman</td><td>Diguén</td><td></td><td>Mooséa</td></tr> +<tr><td>Brother</td><td>Rak Gour</td><td>Tarakunjia</td><td>Ba Ding Kea</td></tr> +<tr><td>My Brother</td><td>Samma Rak Gour</td><td></td><td></td></tr> +<tr><td>Sister</td><td>Rak Diguén</td><td>Magine</td><td>Ba Ding Mooséa</td></tr> +<tr><td>My Sister</td><td>Samma Rak Diguén</td><td></td><td></td></tr> +<tr><td>Head</td><td>Bop</td><td>Hung Hungji</td><td>Roon</td></tr> +<tr><td>My Head</td><td>Samma Bop</td><td></td><td></td></tr> +<tr><td>Tongue</td><td>Lamin</td><td>Ning Ningje</td><td>Ning</td></tr> +<tr><td>Mouth</td><td>Guémin</td><td>Dé</td><td>Da</td></tr> +<tr><td>Nose</td><td>Bauane</td><td>Nieue</td><td>Nung</td></tr> +<tr><td>Bread</td><td>Bourou</td><td></td><td>Munko</td></tr> +<tr><td>Water</td><td>Dock</td><td></td><td>Gee</td></tr> +<tr><td>Teeth</td><td>Guené</td><td></td><td></td></tr> +<tr><td>Bowels</td><td>Bouthet</td><td></td><td></td></tr> +<tr><td>Belly</td><td>Birr</td><td></td><td>Kono</td></tr> +<tr><td>Fingers</td><td>Baram</td><td></td><td>Boalla Ronding</td></tr> +<tr><td>Arm</td><td>Lokoó</td><td></td><td>Boalla Same for hand.</td></tr> +<tr><td>Hair</td><td>Cayor</td><td></td><td></td></tr> +<tr><td>The Beard</td><td>Jekim</td><td>Habe de Habe</td><td>Bora</td></tr> +<tr><td>White</td><td>Toulha é</td><td>Fihe</td><td>Qui</td></tr> +<tr><td>Black</td><td>Jolof</td><td>Foro</td><td>Fing</td></tr> +<tr><td>Good</td><td>Bachna</td><td>Fang</td><td>Bettie</td></tr> +<tr><td>Bad</td><td>Bahout</td><td>Niaake</td><td>Jox</td></tr> +</table> + +<br> + +<table> +<tr><td>ENGLISH</td><td>SOOSEE</td></tr> +<tr><td>——————————————————-</td><td>————————————</td></tr> +<tr><td>Elephant</td><td>Siti</td></tr> +<tr><td>Camelion</td><td>Kolungji</td></tr> +<tr><td>Horse</td><td>Shuoe</td></tr> +<tr><td>Cow</td><td>Ninkgegine</td></tr> +<tr><td>Goat</td><td>Shee</td></tr> +<tr><td>Sheep</td><td>Juké</td></tr> +<tr><td>Leopard</td><td>Shuko she</td></tr> +<tr><td>Alligator</td><td>Shonge</td></tr> +<tr><td>Parrot</td><td>Kalle</td></tr> +<tr><td>Shark</td><td>Sark</td></tr> +<tr><td>Honey</td><td>Kume</td></tr> +<tr><td>White ant, termite, &c.</td><td>Bugabuge</td></tr> +<tr><td>(or Bug a bug)</td><td></td></tr> +<tr><td>The Sea</td><td>Baa</td></tr> +<tr><td>Earth</td><td>Bohe</td></tr> +<tr><td>Knife</td><td>Finé</td></tr> +<tr><td>Shirt</td><td>Doma</td></tr> +<tr><td>Trowsers</td><td>Wangtanji</td></tr> +<tr><td>Brass pan</td><td>Tang kue</td></tr> +<tr><td>House</td><td>Bankhi</td></tr> +<tr><td>Door</td><td>Dé nadé</td></tr> +<tr><td>Day</td><td>Hi</td></tr> +<tr><td>Night</td><td>Qué</td></tr> +<tr><td>Health</td><td>Maié langfe</td></tr> +<tr><td>Sickness</td><td>Fura</td></tr> +<tr><td>Pain</td><td>Whondi, Whona fe</td></tr> +<tr><td>Love</td><td>Whuli</td></tr> +<tr><td>Hatred</td><td>Niaahú</td></tr> +<tr><td>Road</td><td>Kirá</td></tr> +<tr><td>Idle</td><td>Kobi</td></tr> +<tr><td>Hot</td><td>Furi, furihe</td></tr> +<tr><td>Cold</td><td>Himbeli</td></tr> +<tr><td>What are you doing?</td><td>Emung she ra falama?</td></tr> +<tr><td>Tornado</td><td>Tuliakbegle</td></tr> +<tr><td>Which way are you going?</td><td>Esigama mung kirara</td></tr> +<tr><td>To trade</td><td>Sera Shofe</td></tr> +<tr><td>Make haste</td><td>Arâ bafe mafurì</td></tr> +<tr><td>To Kill</td><td>Fuka fe</td></tr> +<tr><td>To Quarrel</td><td>Gerì shofe</td></tr> +<tr><td>To Sing</td><td>Shige sháfe</td></tr> +<tr><td>To beat the drum</td><td>Fare mokafé</td></tr> +<tr><td>Have you done?</td><td>Ebanta gei?</td></tr> +<tr><td>Are you afraid?</td><td>Egahama?</td></tr> +<tr><td>He is not yet gone</td><td>A mú siga sending</td></tr> +<tr><td>Stand still</td><td>Tife ira hara</td></tr> +<tr><td>Run</td><td>Gee fé</td></tr> +<tr><td>Leap, or Jump</td><td>Tubang fe</td></tr> +<tr><td>Have you slept well?</td><td>Eheo keefang?</td></tr> +<tr><td>Do you understand Soosee?</td><td>Esusee whi mema?</td></tr> +<tr><td>I am hungry</td><td>Kaame em shukuma</td></tr> +<tr><td>Eat</td><td>Dong</td></tr> +<tr><td>Let us go</td><td>Woem hasiga</td></tr> +<tr><td>Will you go with me?</td><td>Esigáma em fokhera</td></tr> +<tr><td>I have no money</td><td>Náfuli muna embe</td></tr> +<tr><td>How much do you want?</td><td>E' wama ierekong</td></tr> +<tr><td>Sit down</td><td>Dokha</td></tr> +<tr><td>How do you do</td><td>E'mung keé?</td></tr> +<tr><td>Very well</td><td>Em melang hekeefang</td></tr> +<tr><td>Give me some rice?</td><td>Málungdundundifeemma</td></tr> +<tr><td>Here</td><td>Be</td></tr> +<tr><td>What is your name?</td><td>Ehili mungkee?</td></tr> +<tr><td>I love you</td><td>Efanghe emma</td></tr> +<tr><td>If you want rice I will give you some</td><td>Ha ewama málunghong eminda fuma éma</td></tr> +<tr><td>Let us go together.</td><td>Meekufiring ha siga</td></tr> +</table> + +<br> + +<table> +<tr><td>ENGLISH</td><td>JOLLIFF</td></tr> +<tr><td>——————————————</td><td>———————————-</td></tr> +<tr><td>Goat</td><td>Phas</td></tr> +<tr><td>Sheep</td><td>Zedre</td></tr> +<tr><td>Wolf</td><td>Bouki</td></tr> +<tr><td>Elephant</td><td>Guìé</td></tr> +<tr><td>Ox</td><td>Nack</td></tr> +<tr><td>Fish</td><td>Guienn</td></tr> +<tr><td>Horse</td><td>Ghénapp</td></tr> +<tr><td>Butter</td><td>Dión</td></tr> +<tr><td>Milk</td><td>Sán</td></tr> +<tr><td>Tiger</td><td>Shaglé</td></tr> +<tr><td>Iron</td><td>Vina</td></tr> +<tr><td>Millet</td><td>Doughoul</td></tr> +<tr><td>Quiver</td><td>Smagalla</td></tr> +<tr><td>To dance</td><td>Faik</td></tr> +<tr><td>To sing</td><td>Ouhai</td></tr> +<tr><td>To-day</td><td>Thei</td></tr> +<tr><td>To-morrow</td><td>Elleck, or Mek</td></tr> +<tr><td>Yesterday</td><td>Demb</td></tr> +<tr><td>A tree</td><td>Garallun</td></tr> +<tr><td>To drink</td><td>Nán</td></tr> +<tr><td>To eat</td><td>Leck ou leckamm</td></tr> +<tr><td>She is remarkably handsome</td><td>Sama rafitnalóll</td></tr> +<tr><td>Good day</td><td>Dhiarakio</td></tr> +<tr><td>Good day Sir</td><td>Dhiarakio-Samba</td></tr> +<tr><td>Good night</td><td>Fhanandiam</td></tr> +<tr><td>Come here?</td><td>Kahihfie</td></tr> +<tr><td>Yes</td><td>Ouaa</td></tr> +<tr><td>No</td><td>Dhiett</td></tr> +<tr><td>How do you do?</td><td>Dhya mésa?</td></tr> +<tr><td>Very well</td><td>Dhya medal</td></tr> +<tr><td>Buy</td><td>Ghuyendé</td></tr> +<tr><td>Sell</td><td>Ghuyal</td></tr> +<tr><td>Take</td><td>Diapol</td></tr> +<tr><td>I will</td><td>Benguéna</td></tr> +<tr><td>I thank you</td><td>Guérum nalá</td></tr> +<tr><td>A bar of Iron</td><td>Baravin</td></tr> +<tr><td>What did you say?</td><td>Loung a houche</td></tr> +<tr><td>Can you speak Joliff?</td><td>DÃgenga Jolliff</td></tr> +<tr><td>How much did that cost?</td><td>Niatar ladiar?</td></tr> +<tr><td>Give me</td><td>Maniman</td></tr> +<tr><td>I love you from my heart</td><td>Sépenata tié somo koll</td></tr> +</table> + +<br> + +<table> +<tr><td>ENGLISH</td><td>TEMMANEE</td><td>BULLOM</td></tr> +<tr><td>———————————-</td><td>————————————</td><td>————————</td></tr> +<tr><td>How do you do?</td><td>Currea</td><td>Lemmoó</td></tr> +<tr><td>I return you service,</td><td>Bá</td><td>Bá</td></tr> +<tr><td>or salute</td><td></td><td></td></tr> +<tr><td>Are you well?</td><td>Too pay</td><td>Appay wa?</td></tr> +<tr><td>Very well</td><td>Tai ó tai</td><td>Pay chin lin</td></tr> +<tr><td>What is your name?</td><td>Gnay see mooa?</td><td>Illil é móa?</td></tr> +<tr><td>Give me a little rice</td><td>Song mee pilla pittun</td><td>Knamée opillay</td></tr> +<tr><td></td><td></td><td>otayk</td></tr> +<tr><td>Yes</td><td>A</td><td>A</td></tr> +<tr><td>No</td><td>Deh</td><td>Be</td></tr> +<tr><td>Is your father at home?</td><td>Pa ka moo oyá roshaytee?</td><td>Appa moway lore</td></tr> +<tr><td></td><td></td><td>ko killayée</td></tr> +<tr><td>He is</td><td>Oéeree</td><td>Way lorre</td></tr> +<tr><td>What do you want?</td><td>Ko nyaymaee?</td><td>Yeng yayma?</td></tr> +<tr><td>Why do you do so?</td><td>Ko sum kingyotteeay</td><td>Yaywum layngalla</td></tr> +<tr><td>I beg your pardon</td><td>A marree moo</td><td>Lum marra mó</td></tr> +</table> + +<br> + +<table> +<tr><td>ENGLISH</td><td>TEMMANEK</td><td>BULLOM</td></tr> +<tr><td>——————————</td><td>——————————</td><td>———————————-</td></tr> +<tr><td>I love you</td><td>Ee bóter moo</td><td>A marra mo</td></tr> +<tr><td>Let me alone</td><td>Tuoy mee</td><td>Y'nfolmee</td></tr> +<tr><td>Let me go</td><td>Teer amee</td><td>Y'mmelmee</td></tr> +<tr><td>Sit down</td><td>Yeera</td><td>Y'nchal</td></tr> +<tr><td>I am hungry</td><td>Durabang mee</td><td>Nrik mi a me</td></tr> +<tr><td>Shut the door</td><td>Kanta kayraree</td><td>Ingkunta fong fólootay</td></tr> +<tr><td>Will you go with me?</td><td>Yintoo kó pey a mee?</td><td>Mo mee ko day ree</td></tr> +<tr><td>Where are you going?</td><td>Ray mó kóay.</td><td>Lomo koa</td></tr> +<tr><td>Here</td><td>Unno</td><td>Kakée or ha</td></tr> +<tr><td>Forward</td><td>Kihdee</td><td>Ebol</td></tr> +<tr><td>Backward</td><td>Rarung</td><td>Wayling</td></tr> +<tr><td>To-day</td><td>Taynung</td><td>Eenang</td></tr> +<tr><td>To-morrow</td><td>Anéenang</td><td>Beng</td></tr> +<tr><td>Sometimes</td><td>Olokko ollon</td><td>Lokkó poom</td></tr> +<tr><td>And</td><td>Ray</td><td>Na</td></tr> +<tr><td>Good bye</td><td>Mang peearó</td><td>Heepeeáró</td></tr> +</table> +<br> + +<p>** The foregoing Vocabulary, and imperfect number of words, may serve to +give some idea of a part of the languages on the Windward Coast of Africa. +From those accidents to which the traveller is continually exposed, I have +unfortunately lost what I am persuaded was a very accurate vocabulary of +the Jolliff, Foulah, Maudingo, Soosee, Bullom, and Temmanee tongues, which +I had arranged under the correction of a very intelligent trader long +resident upon the Windward Coast. Owing to this misfortune I have been +obliged to refer to scattered memoranda only, which I know to correspond +correctly with the document I allude to. As the Foulah and Mandingo nations +are of most consequence in attempts at civilization, I have to regret +exceedingly that I have not been able to give the languages of those +nations more at large.</p> + +<div>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 12539 ***</div> +</body> +</html> diff --git a/12539-h/images/001.jpg b/12539-h/images/001.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7c52024 --- /dev/null +++ b/12539-h/images/001.jpg diff --git a/12539-h/images/001_th.jpg b/12539-h/images/001_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..bee884e --- /dev/null +++ b/12539-h/images/001_th.jpg diff --git a/12539-h/images/014.png b/12539-h/images/014.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6a5f81b --- /dev/null +++ b/12539-h/images/014.png diff --git a/12539-h/images/014_th.jpg b/12539-h/images/014_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..4353995 --- /dev/null +++ b/12539-h/images/014_th.jpg diff --git a/12539-h/images/017.jpg b/12539-h/images/017.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6751fb8 --- /dev/null +++ b/12539-h/images/017.jpg diff --git a/12539-h/images/017_th.jpg b/12539-h/images/017_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..86ecb08 --- /dev/null +++ b/12539-h/images/017_th.jpg diff --git a/12539-h/images/024.jpg b/12539-h/images/024.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..75eae22 --- /dev/null +++ b/12539-h/images/024.jpg diff --git a/12539-h/images/024_th.jpg b/12539-h/images/024_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d4ab414 --- /dev/null +++ b/12539-h/images/024_th.jpg diff --git a/12539-h/images/028.jpg b/12539-h/images/028.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7149dd4 --- /dev/null +++ b/12539-h/images/028.jpg diff --git a/12539-h/images/028_th.jpg b/12539-h/images/028_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..caf5962 --- /dev/null +++ b/12539-h/images/028_th.jpg diff --git a/12539-h/images/040.jpg b/12539-h/images/040.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a92921d --- /dev/null +++ b/12539-h/images/040.jpg diff --git a/12539-h/images/040_th.jpg b/12539-h/images/040_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..90a7dcf --- /dev/null +++ b/12539-h/images/040_th.jpg diff --git a/12539-h/images/043.jpg b/12539-h/images/043.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..bc55392 --- /dev/null +++ b/12539-h/images/043.jpg diff --git a/12539-h/images/043_th.jpg b/12539-h/images/043_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..5a39c91 --- /dev/null +++ b/12539-h/images/043_th.jpg diff --git a/12539-h/images/044.jpg b/12539-h/images/044.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2297ac8 --- /dev/null +++ b/12539-h/images/044.jpg diff --git a/12539-h/images/044_th.jpg b/12539-h/images/044_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8e584b4 --- /dev/null +++ b/12539-h/images/044_th.jpg diff --git a/12539-h/images/053.jpg b/12539-h/images/053.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c868d50 --- /dev/null +++ b/12539-h/images/053.jpg diff --git a/12539-h/images/053_th.jpg b/12539-h/images/053_th.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..1111ac0 --- /dev/null +++ b/12539-h/images/053_th.jpg diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..16dd4e7 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #12539 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/12539) diff --git a/old/12539-8.txt b/old/12539-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..fffe767 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/12539-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,5425 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Observations Upon The Windward Coast Of +Africa, by Joseph Corry + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Observations Upon The Windward Coast Of Africa + +Author: Joseph Corry + +Release Date: June 6, 2004 [EBook #12539] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE WINDWARD COAST OF AFRICA *** + + + + +Produced by Carlo Traverso, Willy De la Court and Distributed +Proofreaders Europe, http://dp.rastko.net. This file was produced +from images generously made available by the Bibliotheque nationale +de France (BnF/Gallica) at http://gallica.bnf.fr. Willy De la Court + + + + + +[Illustration: A MANDINGO CHIEF, and his HEADMAN, in their COSTUME, & other +NATIVES] + + + + + OBSERVATIONS + UPON THE + WINDWARD COAST OF AFRICA, + THE + RELIGION, CHARACTER, CUSTOMS, &c. + OF THE NATIVES; + WITH A + SYSTEM UPON WHICH THEY MAY BE CIVILIZED, + AND A + KNOWLEDGE ATTAINED OF THE INTERIOR OF THIS EXTRAORDINARY + QUARTER OF THE GLOBE; + AND UPON + THE NATURAL AND COMMERCIAL RESOURCES OF THE COUNTRY; + MADE IN THE YEARS 1805 AND 1806. + + BY JOSEPH CORRY. + + WITH AN APPENDIX, + CONTAINING + A LETTER TO LORD HOWICK, ON THE MOST SIMPLE AND EFFECTUAL + MEANS OF ABOLISHING THE SLAVE TRADE. + + + + LONDON: +PRINTED FOR G. AND W. NICOL, BOOKSELLERS TO HIS MAJESTY, PALL-MALL; + AND JAMES ASPERNE, CORNHILL. + BY W. BULMER AND CO. CLEVELAND ROW, ST. JAMES'S + 1807. + + + + + TO + THE RIGHT HONOURABLE + LORD VISCOUNT CASTLEREAGH, + ONE OF HIS MAJESTY'S PRINCIPAL SECRETARIES + OF STATE FOR FOREIGN AFFAIRS. + + + + MY LORD, + + +Hightly flattered by your Lordship's polite condescension, in permitting me +to inscribe to you the following Pages, I return your Lordship my most +unfeigned thanks. + +If they meet your Lordship's approbation, and that of a discerning Public; +or if they tend in the most remote degree to excite more intelligent +efforts and more active enterprise on behalf of the unenlightened African, +or to augment the Commerce of the United Kingdom with a Country, now in +danger of falling into the hands of our Enemies, I shall feel an ample +reward for the risques and dangers to which I have been exposed in +collecting these Fragments; while the occasion gives me the opportunity of +subscribing myself, + + + With grateful acknowledgments, + Your Lordship's + Most obedient, and devoted humble Servant, + + + + JOSEPH CORRY, + +PREFACE. + +With becoming deference, I shall endeavour to illustrate in the following +pages, the observations I have personally made upon the Coast of Africa, +and to give the information I have obtained from an extended circle of +Chiefs, and native Tribes, relative to its Inhabitants, their Religion, +Habits and Customs, the natural productions and commercial resources, &c. +and attempt to delineate the most eligible grounds upon which the condition +of the African may be effectually improved, and our commercial relations be +preserved with that important quarter of the globe. + +Though deeply impressed with the importance of the subject, and my own +incompetency, I obtrude myself upon Public notice, governed by this +reflection, that I am stimulated by an ardent zeal for the prosperity of my +Country, and am animated by a philanthropic solicitude for the effectual +manumission of the African, from his enslaved customs, his superstitious +idolatry, and for the enlargement of his intellectual powers. + +I shall guard against the sacrifice of truth to abstracted principles; and +if in the most remote degree, I excite the interference of my countrymen in +behalf of the African, extend our commerce, and enlarge the circle of +civilized and Christian Society, I shall think that I have neither +travelled, nor written in vain. + +Africa is a country hitherto but little known; those in general who have +visited it, have been either inadequate to research, or have been absorbed +in the immediate attainment of gain; moreover the European Traveller in +that country has to contend with the combined influence of the native +jealousies of its inhabitants, their hereditary barbarism, obstinate +ferocity, and above all, an uncongenial climate. To surmount these +difficulties, commerce is the most certain medium to inspire its Chiefs and +Natives with confidence, and to obtain a facility of intercourse with the +Interior country. Sanctioned by that pursuit, I have been favoured with +information from a large circle of Native Chiefs, and Tribes, relative to +their customs, their habits, localities, predilections, and the existing +state of society. + +The impressions, which ocular demonstration, and personal investigation +occasion upon visiting this uncultivated country, are so different from +those excited in any other district of the globe, and so powerful, that the +mind is naturally led to meditation on the means of its improvement and on +the mode by which it may be ameliorated, and the sources of commerce be +essentially enlarged. + +Europe, which merits the highest rank for philanthropy, has hitherto +strangely neglected this country; nor have the attempts of individuals and +benevolent Societies been productive in endeavouring to diffuse the +influence of civilization, and to desseminate the seeds of science +throughout these extensive regions. + +Trusting that my endeavours to befriend the Natives of Africa, and to +extend the Commerce of my Country, will shield me from the severity of +animadversion, and of criticism, I shall proceed in my relation. + + + J. CORRY. +_September 1st, 1807_. + + +CONTENTS. + +CHAPTER I. + +Remarks from the Period of Embarkation at St. Helen's, till the Arrival at +Sierra Leone--Sketches of the Land seen in the Passage--its Bearings and +Distance--Observations upon the Bay and Entrance of Sierra Leone River, &c. + +CHAPTER II. + +The Author leaves Bance Island.--Visits the Colony of Sierra +Leone.--Delivers his introductory Letter to the late Governor Day, from +whom he experiences a most hospitable Reception.--Cursory Remarks upon that +Colony, and upon the Islands of Banana.--His Embarkation for the Island of +Goree, &c. + +CHAPTER III. + +An Excursion to the main Land.--Visit to King Marraboo.--Anecdotes of this +Chief.--Another Excursion, accompanied by Mr. Hamilton.--A shooting Party, +acccompanied by Marraboo's Son, Alexander, and other Chiefs.--Reflections +upon Information obtained from them, and at Goree, relative to this Part of +the Coast.--Embark in his Majesty's Sloop of War the Eugenia, which +convoyed Mr. Mungo Park in the Brig Crescent, to the River Gambia, on his +late Mission to the Interior of Africa.--Observations on that +Subject.--Arrive in Porto Praya Bay, in the Island of St. Jago.--Some +Remarks upon that Island.--Departure from thence to England, and safe +Arrival at Portsmouth + +CHAPTER IV. + +The Author proceeds to London.--Re-embarks for Africa.--Arrives at +Madeira.--Observations on that Island.--Prosecution of the Voyage, and +Arrival in the Sierra Leone River, &c. + +CHAPTER V. + +Observations upon the natural Productions of the River Sierra Leone.--The +Author explores its Branches, interior to Bance Island, the Rochelle, and +the Port Logo.--The Manners and Customs of the Inhabitants.--Their +Commerce.--The Author's safe Arrival at Miffare + +CHAPTER VI. + +Return to Bance Island.--General Observations on the Commerce, Religion, +Customs, and Character of the Natives upon the Windward Coast.--An Account +of the requisite Merchandize for Trade, the best Mode of introducing +natural Commerce and Civilization into Africa, &c. + +CHAPTER VII. + +The Mode of Trial by _Ordeal_ and _Red Water_ in Africa.--The Wars of its +Inhabitants.--The State of Barbarism and Slavery considered.--The Condition +of the Africans will not be improved by a late Legislative Act, without +further Interference.--Salutary Measures must be adopted towards the +Negroes in the Colonies.--A System suggested to abolish Slavery in Africa, +and the Slave Trade in general, and to enlarge the intellectual Powers of +its Inhabitants.--The proper Positions to effect an Opening to the Interior +of Africa, and to display to the World its manifold Resources + +CHAPTER VIII. + +What the Anthor conceives should be the System of Establishment to make +effectual the Operations from Cape Verd to Cape Palmas.--Reasons for +subjecting the Whole to one Superior and controlling Administration.--The +Situations, in his Estimation, where principal Depots may be established, +and auxiliary Factories may be placed, &c. &c. + +CHAPTER IX. + +The Author embarks in the Ship Minerva.--Proceeds to the Rio +Pongo.--Disquisitions thereon.--Further Observations on the Inhabitants, +obtained from Natives of various Nations met with there.--The Isles de +Loss.--Returns to Sierra Leone, &c. + +CHAPTER X. + +The Author visits the Isles de Loss.--Remarks on those Islands.--Touches at +the River Scarcies.--Arrives at the Colony of Sierra Leone.--Embarks for +the West Indies--Lands at the Colony of Demerary.--Some Observations on the +Productions of that Colony, Berbice, and Essequibo, and on the Importance +of Dutch Guiana to the United Kingdom in a political and commercial View + +CHAPTER XI. + +Conclusion + +APPENDIX. + +No. I. + +Letter to the Right Honourable Lord Viscount Howick, His Majesty's late +principal Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs, on the Eve of his +Lordship introducing the late Bill into Parliament for the Abolition of the +Slave Trade; shewing at one View the most simple and ready Mode of +gradually and effectually abolishing the Slave Trade, and eradicating +Slavery + +No. II. + +Letter to the Right Honourable the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, +referred to in the foregoing Letter to Lord Howick + +No. III. + +Of the Purrah + +Of the _Termite_, _Termes_, or _Bug a Bug_, as it is called by the Natives +upon the Windward Coast of Africa + +Of the Camelion + +On the Interment of the Dead + +On the Amusements, Musical Instruments, &c. of the Africans + +Concluding Observations + +Vocabulary of the Languages of the principal Nations of the Windward Coast +of Africa + +DIRECTIONS TO THE BINDER. + +Mandingo Chief and his Head Man, with other Natives in their Costume, to +face the Title Page. + +Sketch of the Windward Coast of Africa to face page 1 + +Palma + +The Colony of Sierra Leone and Islands of Banana + +Island of Goree + +Porto Praya, Island of St. Jago + +Island of Fogo, Cape Verd + +Island of St. Jago, and Paps of Cape Verd + +Bance Island, River Sierra Leone + +In illustration of the above Plates, it may be satisfactory to the Reader +to explain that the Turban, in the Frontispiece, distinguishes the +_Mandingo Chief_; and that the Cap, which adorns the _Head Man_, is +embroidered by _themselves_ on scarlet cloth procured from Europeans in +trade, and is executed with great ingenuity. + +The narrow stripe of blue cloth suspended behind from the covering which +adorns one of the figures in the back ground, distinguishes a female in the +state of virginity. + +This distinguishing mark of _virgin purity_ is uniformly removed upon +entering into the matrimonial state, and is called by the Timmauees +_Tintanjey_. + +In the Plate of Bance Island, River Sierra Leone, page 33, is a correct +representation of the _Pullam_ tree, described in page 38, as bearing a +species of silk cotton, or ether down, and is much revered by the natives, +who consider it in many instances as their _Fetish_. + + +* * * * * + + +ERRATA. + + + + Page 54, line 8, for _gallunas_ read _galhinas_. + 62 2, for _is derived from the African gris-gris_, read, + _is the expression from which the African gris-gris is_ + _derived_. + 64 20, for _lugras_, read _lugars_. + 92 6, for _bungra_, read _bangra_. + + + + + + +[Illustration: SKETCH OF THE WINDWARD COAST OF AFRICA] + + + + + + OBSERVATIONS + UPON THE + WINDWARD COAST OF AFRICA. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + + + + +_Remarks from the Period of my Embarkation at St. Helens, to my arrival at +Sierra Leone--Sketches of the Land discovered in the Passage--its Bearings +and Distance--with Observations upon the Bay and Entrance of Sierra Leone +River, &c._ + +Previous to my arrival and landing in the river Sierra Leone, on the 6th of +April, 1805, I shall notice my passage, and display the sketches I have +taken of the land we fell in with, its bearings and distance, for the +observation of the mariner, which from position and prominence to the +Atlantic, claim his most serious attention in running down the coast of +Africa to-windward.[1] + +On the 9th March, 1805, I sailed from St. Helens in the ship Thames, +commanded by James Welsh, in company with a fleet of ships bound to the +East Indies, under convoy of his Majesty's ship Indostan. We had a +favourable run down Channel; but, after making to the westward of Scilly, +a heavy gale of wind separated the Thames from the convoy, which we never +afterwards regained, and were therefore obliged, at all hazards, to +proceed for our destination upon the coast of Africa. + +Nothing interesting occurred during a prosperous and quick passage, until +the high land of Sierra Leone appeared in view on the evening of the 5th of +April. We came to an anchor outside the Capes, and weighed the next +morning, steering our course for the river. + +The space between Leopard's Island, situated to the north, and Cape Sierra +Leone to the south, forms the entrance into the river Sierra Leone; being +in latitude 8° 30" N. and in 13° 43" W. long. and is computed about seven +geographical leagues distant. The river empties itself immediately into the +ocean; and its level banks to the north are covered with impervious +forests, while those to the south exhibit the romantic scenery of an +extended chain of lofty mountains and hills, clothed and ornamented with +foliage of the most luxuriant nature, exciting the highest admiration in +those who are susceptible of the impressions which the sublime works of the +creation never fail to inspire. + +Upon entering the bay, the eye is attracted by an extensive river, +circumscribed by the foregoing outline, and exhibiting upon its banks an +assemblage of the productions of nature, vegetating in their native purity. +This view is animated by the prospect of the colony of Sierra Leone, and +the masts of vessels and craft which commerce, and a safe anchorage, +encourage to assemble before it, and by numerous natives paddling with +great dexterity in their canoes. + + + +[Illustration: PALMA bearing S. by W. distant about 8 leagues from A +Published Aug 1 1807 by G & W Nicol] + + + +As I shall have occasion to speak hereafter of the importance of this bay +in a commercial and agricultural point of view, I shall not at present +enter into farther details; but only suggest that I consider it as a +position from whence active enterprize may perform its operations +throughout an extensive district, and derive the most important advantages. + +At two. P.M. came to an anchor before the fort and settlement of Bance +Island, which we saluted with seven guns. The river is navigable up to this +island for ships, and small craft proceed a number of miles higher, on the +branches of the Port Logo and Rochell. It is obscured from the view by the +island of Tasso, until bearing round a point of that island called Tasso +Point; the eye is then attracted by a regular fortification, and even an +elegant range of buildings and store-houses, which, with great propriety, +may be considered as one of the most desirable positions upon the windward +coast of Africa, to command the interior commerce of the countries +bordering upon the river Sierra Leone and its branches, and that of the +rivers to the northward, the Scarcies and adjoining rivers, the Rio Pongo, +with the Isles De Loss, Rio Grande, Rio Noonez, &c. and those which fall +into the sea from Cape Sierra Leone to Cape Palmas. + +Tasso is an island adjoining, about a mile and a half distant, of some +extent, and a remarkably fertile soil. It is attached to Bance Island; +bearing cotton of a very good staple, and is capable of producing any +tropical production. Considerable labour and expense have been applied to +introduce cultivation into this island, and to exemplify to the African the +advantages derivable from his native soil, by the civil arts of life; while +under a still more scientific superintendency, it would become a possession +of very considerable consequence in an agricultural view. + +Bance Island is little more than a barren rock, of about three-quarters of +a mile in extent. The entrance into the fort is through a folding door or +gate, over which, throughout the night, a watch is constantly placed. The +expectations excited by its external appearance were by no means lessened +by a view of the interior of the fort, in which were assembled several +traders, and chiefs, with their attendants. I was much the object of their +curiosity and attention; and in their manner, all came up to me, to _give +me service _, as expressed in the idiom of their language. This ceremony is +simply performed by touching the fingers, accompanied in the Timminy +language by the usual obeisance of _Currea _, or, how do you do? The reply +to this is _Ba_, which means good, I return you service. + +The Grumittas, or free black people, are assembled outside the fort, in +houses or huts built with mud, upon the general construction in Africa, +which usually is an oblong square, raised little more than eight feet; or a +circle of the same height, over which is thrown a roof of bamboo, or other +thatch, supported by posts about five or six feet asunder, forming a +canopy, which shelters them from the rays of the sun, or the inclemency of +the weather, and affords a shade under which they retire in the extreme +heat of the day, where they repose in their hammocks, or rest upon their +mats. This group of buildings or huts is denominated Adam's Town, from the +black chief who presides over these labouring people. Their numbers may be +estimated at about 600. Originally they were slaves to the proprietors of +this island; but from a very humane and wise policy, they have been endowed +with certain privileges, which rescue them from an absolute state of +slavery, and prevents their being sold as slaves, unless they are convicted +by the laws and customs of their country of some crime or delinquency. + +Among these people are artizans in various branches, viz. smiths, +carpenters, joiners, masons, &c. under the superintendance of Europeans in +their different trades, who for ingenuity and adroitness in their +respective capacities, would deserve the approbation even of the +connoisseur in these arts; while in many other instances they discover a +genius of the most intelligent character, and a decency in their dress and +manners distinguished from that among the surrounding tribes; which is the +never failing consequence of the influence of the arts of civilized society +over barbarous customs and habits. + +[Footnote 1: Perhaps it will be considered by the reader a singular +phenomenon, that the upper region of _Palma_ was covered with snow.] + + + + +CHAPTER II. + + + + +_The Author leaves Bance Island--Visits the Colony of Sierra +Leone--Delivers his introductory Letter to the late Governor Day, from whom +he experiences a most hospitable Reception--Cursory Remarks upon that +Colony and upon the Islands of Bannana--His Embarkation for the Island of +Goree, &c._ + +From the 6th to the 8td April, I remained at Bance Island, and having +determined to embark for Europe, where circumstances required me by the +first conveyance, I visited the colony of Sierra Leone, then under the +government of the late Capt. William Day, of the Royal Navy, to whom I had +a recommendatory letter. His reception of me was in conformity with his +general character, distinguished for urbanity and polite hospitality; and +such were the impressions upon my mind, both from observation and report, +of the skill and penetration he possessed to fulfil the arduous duties of +his station, that they never will be effaced, and I shall ever retain the +highest respect for his memory. He was then occupied in forming plans of +defence in the colony; and had he lived, I am firmly persuaded, from +subsequent observation and enquiry, that it would in a short period have +opposed to an enemy a formidable resistance, and that it might have been +speedily rescued from that anarchy and confusion which distracted councils, +and want of unanimity had occasioned. + +The colony of Sierra Leone was established by the 31st of George III. +avowedly in opposition to the Slave Trade, and for the purpose of +augmenting more natural commerce, and introducing civilization among the +natives of Africa. The grant is from the 1st of July, 1791, and to continue +for the space of 31 years. During the late war with France, in September +1794, it was nearly destroyed by a French squadron, consisting of one +two-decker, several armed ships and brigs, in the whole about seven or +eight sail; they appeared in the offing on the evening of the 27th, and in +the morning of the 28th at day-light commenced their operations; the result +of which was, that the colony was ravaged by the enemy, and many houses +burnt and destroyed. This squadron was piloted into the river by two +Americans, one of whom was a Captain Neville. The pecuniary loss to the +colony by this attack has been estimated at about 40,000_l_. independant of +buildings destroyed, valued at first cost, about 15,000_l_. more. Bance +Island experienced the same fate, and suffered in pecuniary loss upwards of +20,000_l_. + +In addition to this calamity, the Sierra Leone Company had to lament the +inefficiency of its superintendants, their want of unanimity, and various +other disasters and unforeseen difficulties which operated to augment the +charge in their establishment, and diminish its funds; and with every +deference to the benevolent undertakers, whose motives merit the highest +approbation of every enlightened mind, I would observe, they have likewise +to regret their misconception of the eligible grounds upon which so +beneficent a plan is to be productive of operative influence; but as at a +future stage of my narrative, I shall be enabled from more minute +investigation to enter at large upon this interesting subject, I shall for +the present dismiss it. + +On the 28th of April I embarked on board his Majesty's sloop of war the +Lark, then upon the windward station; having looked into the river for +Governor Day's dispatches, &c.; and I cannot omit this opportunity of +expressing the obligations conferred upon me by Captain Langford, the +commander, and his officers, which invariably continued during my being on +board. At day-light we weighed, and were saluted by one of the forts with +15 guns, which were returned; nothing of moment occurred during our +passage, except being once overtaken with a tornado: this is a hurricane +which prevails upon the windward coast of Africa about this season of the +year, preceding the rainy season; and it is impossible to convey by +description an adequate idea of this explosion of the elements. It +announces its approach by a small white cloud scarcely discernible, which +with incredible velocity overspreads the atmosphere, and envelopes the +affrighted mariner in a vortex of lightning, thunder, torrents of rain, &c. +exhibiting nature in one universal uproar. It is necessary when this cloud +appears at sea, to take in all sail instantaneously, and bear away right +before the furious assailant, which soon expends its awful and tremendous +violence, and nature is again hushed into peaceful tranquillity. + +To the southward of Cape Sierra Leone, and in about 8 degrees north +latitude, lie the Islands of Bannana, in a direction from east to west. To +the west of Great Bannana, lie the smaller islands, which are little more +than barren rocks. The soil of the Bannanas is very fertile, and the +climate healthy, from their proximity to the sea, and the refreshing +breezes which it bestows upon them. They take their name from a fruit so +denominated; and are situated in the most eligible position for commerce, +upon the Windward Coast; combining, from their fertility of soil and +situation, great agricultural advantages, and peculiar salubrity of air. At +present the sovereignty of these islands is contended for by two chiefs, of +considerable intelligence and enterprise, named Caulker and Cleveland. +Caulker appears to be the legitimate sovereign; Cleveland's forefathers +having been established by Caulker's as _trade men_, on their account; and +by intermarriage with that family their claims are founded. James +Cleveland, who married king Caulker's sister, first began the war by his +Grummettas, on the Bannanas, attacking Caulker's people on the Plantains, +The result of this violence was, that Charles Caulker was killed in battle; +and his body mangled and cut into pieces, in the most savage and cruel +manner. In 1798, Stephen Caulker, the present chief, commenced war again, +to revenge his brother's death; and the barbarous contest has continued +ever since, marked with ferocious cruelty, and with various success to the +respective claimants. Soon after its renewal, James Cleveland died, and was +succeeded by his nephew, William, who has received his education in +England, and is a chief of no inconsiderable acquirements and talent. +Stephen Caulker has succeeded in obtaining from him the possession of the +Bannanas and Plantains, and at present sways authority over them; still, +however, exposed to the enterprising genius and intrigues of Cleveland. + + + +[Illustration: THE COLONY of SIERRA LEONE A bearing S.W. by E. distant 3 +MILES, and the BANANAS bearing S.W. by W distant 3 leagues. Published Aug 1 +1807 by G & W Nicol] + + + +Were it practicable to reconcile these contentions, and procure these +valuable islands, they would form most eligible auxiliaries and depots to +any establishment which Government might form upon this part of the coast, +and be of the utmost importance; or in the event of their being +unattainable, factories might be established at Kittim and Boom, both under +Caulker's influence and protection. I have had frequent intercourse with +this chief, and I found him of a very superior understanding, and acute +intellect, to the generality of his countrymen; and if his jealousies could +be allayed by the emollients of superior advantage, his intelligence and +co-operation would much facilitate any operations in this quarter. + +On the 10th of April we arrived at Goree Roads, and came to an anchor +nearly opposite to that part of the island of Goree, called the Point de +Nore, and opening Cape Emanuel, which is by much the most eligible position +in the event of tornados, as a ship may always run in safety to sea, +between the island and the main land. + +Goree is a small island, or barren rock, little more than three quarters of +a mile in length, and a few hundred yards in breadth. Its native +inhabitants are of colour, and a spurious progeny from the French; for whom +they still retain a great predilection. The number of what are called +principal inhabitants, does not exceed 50 males, with their families, +dependants, and slaves; which may in the aggregate amount to frequently +between three and four thousand souls. Their principal trade is in slaves, +of whom they annually export about two thousand, with a small proportion of +dead cargo, chiefly procured from Gambia. + +Religion, of any description, is little practised or understood among them; +although it is evident that Christianity has been introduced into the +island, as there are traces of a catholic chapel and a monastery remaining. +Custom here, as in all the maritime countries of Africa, is the governing +principle of all their actions, added to an avaricious thirst for gain, and +the indulgence of sensual gratification. The ceremony of marriage is too +offensive for delicacy even to reflect upon, much less for me to narrate: +it does not attach to the union any sacred obligation, the bond being +broken at the moment of caprice in either party, or predilection in favour +of any other object. As a preliminary to this disgusting ceremony, a "big +dinner," in their phraseology, and a few presents to the lady, first +obtaining her and her parents' consent, is all that is requisite. When the +happy pair are united, the dependants and slaves of the parties, and their +respective connexions, who are assembled round the buildings or huts, send +forth a most savage yell of exclamation, accompanied by their barbarous +music, gesticulations, and clapping of the hands, in unison with their song +of triumph. This dance is continued with unabating vociferation during the +night, and perhaps for a week, or greater length of time, bearing, however, +due reference to the rank and consequence of the connubial pair. + +The following morning the bride issues forth, with solemn pace and slow, in +grand procession, preceded by her most intimate female associate during her +virgin state, reclining upon her shoulder with both hands; who, in +consequence, is considered as the next matrimonial candidate. They are +immediately surrounded by a concourse of attendants, accompanied by music, +dancing, and other wild expressions of joy; and in a body proceed to visit +her circle of acquaintance and friends, who are always expected to +contribute some offering of congratulation. This ceremony is the concluding +one on the part of the bride; while the dancing and music are continued by +the attendants as long as they can procure any thing either to eat or +drink. + + + +[Illustration: ISLAND OF GOREE Published Aug 1 1807 by G & W Nicol] + + + +In a military point of view, in its present condition, the island of Goree +is far from being a place of strength; but in a commercial, it is of +considerable importance; and, therefore, ought to claim the attention of +Government, if it attaches any consequence towards a commerce with the +coast of Africa. In a military character, its batteries and guns are in an +extremely bad condition; and it is completely a position where a piccaroon +privateer could check every supply from the continent, upon which it +depends for fresh provisions and water, and might carry on hostile +operations without the range of its batteries; which, by consequence, +always exposes this garrison to contingencies and casual supply. In a +commercial consideration, I view it as a possession of the greatest moment; +from its contiguity to the French settlement of the Senegal, and to a large +portion of that valuable district, which they claim and influence; from +whence accurate information may be obtained of their operations; and a +check may issue, to maintain our ascendency to leeward; besides a rallying +point for our outward bound ships, to ascertain the enemy's force upon the +coast; the deviation from a direct course to leeward being very +unimportant: moreover, it might be an eligible depot for the trade of that +infinitely valuable river, the Gambia, which, for variety of natural +productions, is perhaps not to be excelled by any other in the world; only +requiring the hand of industry and intelligence to fertilize and unfold. + +The garrison of Goree has seldom more than 150 effective men to defend it, +of the royal African regiment, commanded by Major Lloyd;[1] and this force +is very fluctuating, from sickness and the diseases of the climate; in +general, however, it is tolerably healthy, and its physical department is +superintended by a gentleman (Doctor Heddle) of very considerable +intelligence and ability in his profession. The hospitality of Major Lloyd, +and the officers of his corps, to their countrymen, is distinguished by +liberality; and during my stay in that island, which was upwards of three +weeks, I have to acknowledge their polite attentions. I was the inmate of +Mr. Hamilton, in the commissariat department, whose peculiar friendship and +kind offices have made a most indelible impression upon my mind. + +The view from the roads, some of the buildings near the shore being of +stone, and upon even an elegant and convenient construction, is calculated +to raise expectation upon approaching it, which is considerably +lessened[**Transcriber's note: "lessoned" must be a typesetting error.] +upon a nearer view; the streets being extremely narrow, and the huts of the +natives huddled together without regularity or system. The inhabitants are +governed in their local customs and capacities by a native mayor, and his +advisers; but, of course, under the control of the commandant of the +garrison; and this privilege is a mere matter of form and courtesy, which a +lenient authority permits. + +[Footnote 1: Now Lieutenant Colonel Lloyd.] + + + + +CHAPTER III. + + + + +_An Excursion to the Main Land.--Visit to King Marraboo.--Anecdotes of this +Chief.--Another Excursion, accompanied by Mr. Hamilton.--A shooting Party, +accompanied by Marraboo's Son, Alexander, and other Chiefs.--Reflections +upon Information obtained from them, relative to this Part of the Coast, +and at Goree.--Embark in his Majesty's Sloop of War, the Eugenie, which +convoyed Mr. Mungo Park in the Brig Crescent, to the River Gambia, on his +late Mission to the Interior of Africa.--Observations on that +Subject.--Arrive in Porto Praya Bay, in the Island of St. Jago.--Some +Remarks upon that Island.--Departure from thence to England, and safe +arrival at Portsmouth._ + + +A few days after the arrival of the Lark at the island of Goree, +accompanied by a party of the officers of that ship, I made an excursion +upon the main land: we set out from the ship early in the morning, for +Decar, the capital of a chief or king, named Marraboo: we arrived before he +had moved abroad, and, after going through winding narrow paths or streets, +we were conducted by one of his people to his palace, a wretched hovel, +built with mud, and thatched with bamboo. In our way to this miserable +habitation of royalty, a confused sound of voices issued forth from almost +every hut we passed, which originated from their inhabitants vociferating +their morning orisons to Allah and Mahomet; their religion being an +heterogeneous system of Mahomedanism, associated with superstitious +idolatry, incantations, and charms. + +We found _Marraboo's head men_ and priests assembled before his majesty's +dwelling _to give him service_, and to offer him their morning's +salutation. At length he made his appearance, followed by several of the +officers of the palace, carrying skins of wild beasts, and mats, which upon +enquiry, I found to have composed the royal bed, spread out upon a little +hurdle, erected about a foot and a half high, interwoven with bamboo canes: +my attention was much engaged with this novel sight; and I could not +contemplate the venerable old man, surrounded by his chiefs, without +conceiving I beheld one of the patriarchs of old, in their primaeval state. +After his chiefs had paid their obeisance, I presumed, accompanied by my +friends, to approach the royal presence; when he discovered us among the +group, his countenance underwent an entire change, expressive of reserve +and surprise, exclaiming, "What did I want with Marraboo?" With great +humility I replied, "I be Englishman, come from King George's country, his +brother, to give him service." He replied with quickness, "I be very glad +to see you, what service have you brought?" I was aware of this tax upon my +civility, and replied, that "I make him good service;" which in plain +English was, that I shall make you a good present. He then conversed with +more freedom relative to his country, government, localities, and religion; +I suggested to him that "I understood he was a powerful king, and a great +warrior, had many wives and children, that he ruled over much people, and a +fine country, that I hear he get much head, that he far pass any of his +enemies, and that I be very happy to look so great a king:" or, in other +words, that I understood he was a great general, was very rich, was more +wise than all his contemporary chiefs, and that it gave me much pleasure to +pay my respects to so great a prince: but the former idiom of language is +best adapted to convey meaning to the interpreters of the chiefs of Africa, +in whatever tongue it may be spoken; being that which they use in +translation; and when they are addressed in this phraseology, they convey +their ideas with more perspicuity and literal interpretation. But to return +to the dialogue. + +Marraboo.--"I be very glad to look you for that, I have much trouble all my +life--great deal of war--my son some time since killed in battle." This was +accompanied by such a melancholy expression of countenance, that could not +fail to excite my compassion, I therefore avoided touching more on the +subject of his wars; only observing, "that I hear he be too much for all +his enemies, and that he build great wall that keep his town and people +safe." + +Marraboo.--"The king of Darnel's people cannot pass that--they all be +killed--they come there sometimes, but always go back again." My curiosity +was excited to obtain the history of this _enchanted wall_, which on my +approach to the town, I had discovered to be apparently little more than +three or four feet high, and situated within the verge of their wells of +fresh water, open at several places, and without any defence. + +Upon enquiry, I found that Marraboo had been early in life _fetish man_, or +high priest, to Damel, king of Cayor, a very powerful chief bordering upon +the Senegal, and that he had artfully contrived to gain over to his +interest a number of adherents, who, in process of time, became formidable, +rebelled against their lawful sovereign, and took possession of that part +of the country towards Cape Verd: to strengthen their position, Marraboo +caused a wall to be erected, commencing from the sea shore, and extending +towards the Cape; which, in the estimation of the natives, and in +consequence of his sacerdotal office, incantations, and charms, was +rendered invulnerable: the hypocritical priest well knew the natural +disposition of his countrymen, and the effect his exorcisms would produce +upon their minds; which operated so effectually, that when his army was +beaten by the powerful Damel, they uniformly retired behind their exorcised +heap of stones, which in a moment stopt their enemy's career, and struck +them with such dread, that they immediately retired to their country, +leaving their impotent enemy in quiet possession of his usurped territory; +whom otherwise they might have annihilated with the greatest facility. +Superstition is a delusion very prevalent in Africa; and its powerful +influence upon the human mind is forcibly illustrated by the foregoing +instance. + +When I enquired of Marraboo the nature of his belief in a supreme being, +his observations were confused and perplexed, having no perspicuous +conception of his attributes or perfections, but an indistinct combination +of incomprehensibility; and to sum up the whole, he remarked, "that he pass +all men, and was not born of woman." + +A few days after the abovementioned visit, I made another excursion to the +main land, accompanied by Mr. Hamilton, and one of the principal +inhabitants of Goree, named Martin. We landed at a small native town, +called after the island, Goree Town. When we came on shore, we were +immediately surrounded by natives, who surveyed us with great curiosity and +attention. We had prepared ourselves with fowling-pieces and shooting +equipage, with the view of penetrating into the interior country: in +pursuance of our design, we dispatched a messenger to _Decar_, with a +request that we might be supplied with attendants and horses: our +solicitation was promptly complied with; and Alexander, Marraboo's son, +speedily made his appearance with two horses, attended by several chiefs +and head men. Our cavalcade made a most grotesque exhibition; Mr. Hamilton +and myself being on horseback, followed by Alexander and his attendants on +foot, in their native accoutrements and shooting apparatus. My seat was not +the most easy, neither was my horse very correct in his paces; the saddle +being scarcely long enough to admit me, with a projection behind, intended +as a security from falling backwards: the stirrups were formed of a thin +plate of iron, about three or four inches broad, and so small, that I could +scarcely squeeze my feet into them. In our progress we killed several +birds, of a species unknown in Europe, and of a most beautiful plumage; one +of which, a little larger than the partridge in England, was armed with a +sharp dart or weapon projecting from the pinion, as if designed by nature +to operate as a guard against its enemies. Our associates rendered us every +friendly attention, and evinced great anxiety to contribute to our sport; +and proved themselves skilful and expert marksmen. The country abounded +with a multiplicity of trees and plants, which would no doubt have amply +rewarded the researches of the botanist, and scientific investigator. The +fatigue I had undergone, and the oppressive heat of the sun, so completely +overpowered me, by the time of our return to Goree Town, that I felt myself +attacked by a violent fever; in this situation I was attended with every +tenderness and solicitude by the females; some bringing me a calabash of +milk, others spreading me a mat to repose upon, and all uniting in kind +offices: it is from them alone that man derives his highest happiness in +this life; and in all situations to which he is exposed, they are the +assuasive agents by whom his sorrows are soothed, his sufferings +alleviated, and his griefs subdued; while compassion is their prominent +characteristic, and sympathy a leading principle of their minds. + +The attention of these kind beings, and the affectionate offices of my +friend, operating upon a naturally good constitution, soon enabled me to +overcome the disease, and to return again to Goree. During the remaining +part of my stay there, I was vigilantly employed in procuring every +information relative to this part of the coast, and through the +intelligence of several of the native inhabitants and traders, I am enabled +to submit the following remarks. + +To elucidate, with perspicuity, the deep impression I feel of the +importance of this district of the Windward Coast, in obtaining a facility +of intercourse with the interior, combining such a variety of local +advantage, by which our ascendency may be preserved, and our commercial +relations improved, is an undertaking, the difficulties of which I duly +appreciate; and I am aware that I have to combat many prejudices and +grounds of opposition to the system I conceive to be practicable, to +develope the various stores of wealth with which Africa abounds, and to +improve the intellectual faculties of its native inhabitants. + +That a situation so highly valuable as the Senegal, and its contiguous +auxiliary, the island of Goree, has been so overlooked, is certainly a +subject of great surprise, and deep regret. While visionary and +impracticable efforts have been resorted to penetrate into the interior of +Africa, we have strangely neglected the maritime situations, which abound +with multifarious objects of commerce, and valuable productions, inviting +our interference to extricate them from their dormant state; and the +consideration apparently has been overlooked, that the barbarism of the +natives on the frontiers must first be subdued by enlightened example, +before the path of research can be opened to the interior. + +We have several recent occurrences to lament, where the most enterprising +efforts have failed, through the inherent jealousies of the natives, and +their ferocious character; and, therefore, it is expedient to commence +experiments in the maritime countries, as the most eligible points from +whence operative influence is to make its progress, civilization display +itself among the inhabitants, and a facility of intercourse be attained +with the interior. So long as this powerful barrier remains in its present +condition, it will continue unexplored; and our intercourse with its more +improved tribes must remain obscured, by the forcible opposition of the +frontier; and these immense regions, with their abundant natural resources, +continue unknown to the civilized world. The inhabitants of the sea coast +are always more fierce and savage than those more remote and insular: all +travellers and voyagers, who have visited mankind in their barbarous state, +must substantiate this fact: and the history of nations and states clearly +demonstrates, that the never-failing influence of commerce and agriculture +united, has emanated from the frontiers, and progressively spread their +blessings into the interior countries. View our own now envied greatness, +and the condition in which our forefathers lived, absorbed in idolatry and +ignorance, and it will unquestionably appear, that our exalted state of +being has arisen from the introduction of the civilized arts of life, the +commerce which our local situation has invited to our shores, and our +agricultural industry. + +Within the district now in contemplation, flows the river of _Senegal_, +with its valuable _gum trade_; the _Gambia_, abounding with innumerable +objects of commerce, such as indigo, and a great variety of plants for +staining, of peculiar properties, timber, wax, ivory, &c.; _the Rio Grande, +Rio Noonez, Rio Pongo,_ &c. all greatly productive, and their borders +inhabited by the Jolliffs, the Foollahs, the Susees, the Mandingos, and +other inferior nations, and communicating, as is now generally believed, +with the river Niger, which introduces us to the interior of this great +continent; the whole presenting an animating prospect to the distinguished +enterprise of our country. + +That these advantages should be neglected, is, as I have before said, +subject of deep regret, and are the objects which I would entreat my +countrymen to contemplate, as the most eligible to attain a knowledge of +this important quarter of the globe, and to introduce civilization among +its numerous inhabitants; by which means, our enemies will be excluded from +that emolument and acquirement, which we supinely overlook and abandon to +contingencies. + +The island of Goree lies between the French settlement of the Senegal and +the river Gambia, and therefore is a very appropriate local station to aid +in forming a general system of operation from Cape Verd to Cape Palmas, +subject to one administration and control. The administrative authority, I +would recommend to be established in the river of Sierra Leone, as a +central situation, from whence evolution is to proceed with requisite +facility, and a ready intercourse be maintained throughout the whole of the +Windward Coast; and as intermediate situations, I would propose the rivers +Gambia, Rio Noonez, Rio Pongo, and Isles de Loss, to the northward; and to +the southward, the Bannana Islands, the Galinhas, Bassau, John's River, &c. +to Cape Palmas; or such of them as would be found, upon investigation, best +calculated to promote the resources of this extensive coast. + +The supreme jurisdiction in the river Sierra Leone, with auxiliaries +established to influence the trade of the foregoing rivers, form the +outlines of my plan, to be supported by an adequate military force, and +organized upon principles which I have hereafter to explain in the course +of my narrative. + +Having an opportunity to sail for England, in his Majesty's sloop of war +the Eugenie, commanded by Charles Webb, Esq. as it was uncertain at what +time the Lark was to proceed, I availed myself of that officer's kind +permission to embark, accompanied by surgeon Thomas Burrowes and his lady. + +The Eugenie had been dispatched for England to convoy the Crescent +transport brig, with Mr. Mungo Park on board, to the river Gambia, upon his +late mission to the interior of Africa. Captain Webb did not conceive it +prudent, nor indeed was it expedient, to proceed higher up the river than +Jillifree, and dispatched the Crescent as far as Kaya, about 150 miles from +the capes of the river, where Mr. Park landed with his associates, viz. his +surgeon, botanist, draftsman, and about 40 soldiers, commanded by an +officer obtained from the royal African corps at Goree, by the order of +Government. + +Nothing could have been more injudicious than attempting this ardoous +undertaking, with any force assuming a military appearance. The natives of +Africa are extremely jealous of white men, savage and ferocious in their +manners, and in the utmost degree tenacious of any encroachment upon their +country. This unhappy mistake may deprive the world of the researches of +this intelligent and persevering traveller, who certainly merits the esteem +of his country, and who, it is to be feared, may fall a victim to a +misconceived plan, and mistaken procedure. + + + +[Illustration: PORTO PRAYA, ISLAND OF ST JAGO Published Aug 1 1807 by G & W +Nicol] + + + +Although anxious to embark, yet I could not take my departure without +sensibly feeling and expressing my sense of obligation for the many +attentions I had to acknowledge from the officers of the garrison, and also +to several of the native inhabitants, among whom were Peppin, Martin, St. +John, and others; the latter, I am sorry to say, was in a bad state of +health; I am much indebted to him for his judicious remarks, and very +intelligent observations. This native received his education in France, and +has acquired a very superior intelligence relative to the present condition +of his country. + +Accompanied by Mr. Hamilton, my hospitable and friendly host, and several +of the officers of the Lark, I embarked on board the Eugenie, on the 31st +of May, and arrived in Porto Praya Bay on the 3d of June. + +The town of Porto Praya is situated upon a plain, forming a height from the +sea, level with the fort, and is a most wretched place, with a very weak +and vulnerable fortification. In the roads there is good anchorage for +shipping, opposite to Quail island, and for smaller vessels nearer the +shore. It has a governmenthouse, a catholic chapel, a market place, and +jail, built with stone; and is now the residence of the government of the +island of St. Jago, subject to the crown of Portugul. Formerly the +governor's place of abode was at the town of St. Jago, upon the opposite +side of the island: his title is that of governor-general of the islands, +comprehending Mayo, Fogo, &c. + +Mayo is remarkable for its salt, which is cast on shore by the rollers or +heavy seas, which at certain periods prevail, and run uncommonly high. The +heat of the sun operating upon the saline particles, produces the salt, +which the inhabitants collect in heaps for sale. We anchored at Mayo for +some hours, and a number of vessels were lying in the roads, chiefly +Americans, taking in this article; it is a very rocky and dangerous +anchorage; we, however, found the traders were willing to undergo the +risque, from the cheapness of the commodity they were in quest of. + +It is a most sorry place, with scarce a vestige of vegetation upon its +surface, and its inhabitants apparently live in the greatest misery. They +are governed by a black man, subject to the administration of St. Jago. + +The military force of St. Jago is by no means either formidable in numbers +or discipline, and exhibits a most complete picture of despicable +wretchedness. + +A black officer, of the name of Vincent, conducted as to the governor, who +received us with politeness, and gave us an invitation to dinner. The town +and garrison were quite in a state of activity and bustle; an officer of +high rank and long residence among them had just paid the debt of nature, +and his body was laid in state in the chapel, in all his paraphernalia. The +greater part of the monks from the monastery of St. Jago were assembled +upon the occasion, to sing requiems for his soul; and the scene was truly +solemn and impressive. We met these ministers of religion at dinner, but +how changed from that gravity of demeanor which distinguished them in +their acts of external worship. The governor's excellent Madeira was taken +in the most genuine spirit of devotion, accompanied by fervent exclamations +upon its excellent qualities. Upon perceiving this holy fervency in the +pious fraternity, we plied them closely, and frequently joined them in +flowing bumpers, until their ardour began to sink into brutal stupidity, +and the morning's hymns were changed into revelry and bacchanalian roar. + + + +[Illustration: POGO, bearing N. by W. distance about 4 leagues from B +Published Aug 1 1807 by G & W Nicol] + + + + +[Illustration: 3 ISLAND of ST. IAGO, distance 6 Miles. 4. PAPS of CAPE +VERDE, bearing at C, _N.N.E._ and at D, _S.E._ by _S._ distance 3 leagues. +Published Aug 1 1807 by G & W Nicol] + + + +This, however, was rather a tax upon the governor's hospitality, as it +deprived him of his _Ciesta_, a common practice with him, almost +immediately after the cloth is withdrawn. When we came ashore the next +morning, we were highly entertained with the anecdotes related to us of the +pranks performed during the night by the convivial priests, many of whom +were unable to fulfil the duties of the altar at the usual hour of prayer. + +The natives of St. Jago, with those of the neighbouring islands, are mostly +black, or of a mixed colour, very encroaching in their manners, and much +addicted to knavery. The island is extremely rocky and uneven, but the +vallies are fertile. The inhabitants raise cotton, and they have several +sugar works; the quantity they raise of both, does not, however, much +exceed their own consumption, but there is no doubt that it might be +considerably augmented by industry, even for exportation; but the natives +are indolent, and extremely listless in their habits. The only inducement +in touching at this island is, to procure water and provisions: the former +is good, and the latter consists in hogs, turkeys, ducks, poultry, &c. but +frequently, after they have been visited by a fleet, a great scarcity +prevails. + +The commodities the natives require as payment may be purchased at Rag +Fair, being extremely partial to cast off wearing apparel of every +description. + +The men are extremely slovenly in their dress; but the women are rather +more correct and uniform, those of the better condition being habited in +muslin, and their hair ornamented, and neatly plaited. + +They manufacture a narrow cloth of silk and cotton, which is in high +estimation among them, and its exportation is prohibited, except to +Portugal. Considerable ingenuity is displayed in this manufacture, which is +performed in a loom, differing very little from that used by the ruder +inhabitants of the coast of Africa, and similar to the garter loom in +England. They have horses and mules well adapted to their roads and rugged +paths, which they ride most furiously, particularly the military, who +advance at full speed to a stone wall, or the side of a house, merely to +shew their dexterity in halting. + +After being detained here for several days in taking in stock and +provisions, we again weighed with the Crescent brig, and a sloop from +Gambia, bound to London, under our convoy, and after a tedious and very +anxious passage, arrived at Portsmouth on the 4th of August. We were +detained under quarantine until the return of post from London, and +proceeded on shore the following day. There is something in _natale solum_ +which charms the soul after a period of absence, and operates so +powerfully, as to fill it with indescribable sensations and delight. Every +object and scene appeals so forcibly to the senses, enraptures the eye, and +so sweetly attunes the mind, as to place this feeling among even the +extacies of our nature, and; the most refined we are capable of enjoying. + +It is this love of his country which stimulates man to the noblest deeds; +and, leaving all other considerations, only obedient to its call, separates +him from his most tender connections, and makes him risque his life in its +defence. + + +"Where'er we roam, whatever realms to see, +Our hearts untravell'd fondly turn to thee; +Still to our country turn, with ceaseless pain, +And drag, at each remove, a lengthening chain." + GOLDSMITH. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + + + + +_The Author proceeds to London.--Re-embarks for Africa.--Arrives at +Madeira.--Observations on that Island.--Prosecution of the Voyage, and +Arrival in the Sierra Leone River, &c._ + + +Our happy arrival was celebrated at the Crown inn, where Captain Webb and +his first Lieutenant (Younger) joined us; we dined together, and separated +with mutual kind wishes. The next morning Mr. Burrowes and myself proceeded +to London, and were once more rapidly conducted into its busy scene. + +Without even time to greet my friends, I again left town for Portsmouth, to +commit myself to the watery element, and revisit the shores. I had so +recently left; and on the 22d of September sailed, in the ship Andersons, +from St. Helen's, under convoy of the Arab post sloop of war, commanded by +Keith Maxwell, Esq. and the Favorite sloop of war, by John Davie, Esq. + +We anchored in Funchal Roads, island of Madeira, on Saturday the lath of +October, without experiencing any remarkable event. + +When approaching the island of Madeira, it exhibits to the eye a strikingly +beautiful and picturesque view. The uneven surface of the hills, covered +with plantations of vines, and various kinds of herbage, with the exception +of partial spots burnt up by the heat of the sun in the dry season, +displays a singular perspective, which, with the beautiful appearance of +the interspersed villas, churches, and monasteries, form an arrangement +both exquisite and delightful. + +After being visited by the boat of health, our party proceeded on shore in +the evening; and upon being made known to the house of Messrs. Murdoch, +Masterton, and Co. were politely invited to breakfast the ensuing morning. + +At our appearance, in conformity with our appointment, we were introduced +into the breakfast parlour by Mr. Wardrope, one of the acting partners, to +his lady and sister, who received us with engaging civilities and +attention. + +After our friendly meal, we perambulated the town of Funchal, and attended +chapel, which so far from being a house of devotion, presented to our +contemplation a rendezvous for intrigue and the retirement of a +conversazione. + +Funchiale or Funchal, takes its derivation from Funcho, signifying in the +Portuguese language, Fennel; it is situated at the bottom of a bay, and may +be considered disproportionate to the island, in extent and appearance, as +it is ill built, and the streets remarkably narrow and ill paved. The +churches are decorated with ornaments, and pictures of images and saints, +most wretchedly executed: I understand, however, that a much better taste +is displayed in the convents, more especially that of the Franciscans, in +which is a small chapel, exhibiting the disgusting view of human skulls and +thigh bones lining its walls. The thigh bones form a cross, and the skulls +are placed in each of the four angles. + +Nature has been very bountiful in her favours to Madeira; its soil is rich +and various, and its climate is salubrious and versatile; it abounds in +natural productions, and only requires the fostering hand of the husbandman +to produce every necessary, and almost luxury, of life. Walnuts, chesnuts, +and apples, flourish in the hills, almost spontaneously, and guanas, +mangoes, and bananas, in wild exuberance. At the country residence of James +Gordon, Esq. where we dined, and met with the most distinguished +hospitality, I saw a most surprising instance of rapid growth; a shoot of +the tree, called the Limbriera Royal, started up, perpendicularly from the +trunk, to a height of nearly _thirty feet_, from the month of January to +that of October: it is, however, to be observed, that the branches were +lopped off, and it is supposed the juices of the trunk communicated to this +stem. + +Corn of a very good quality grows in this island, and might be produced in +plenty, but the inhabitants, whose characteristic is idleness, neglect its +culture, and thereby subject themselves to the necessity of relying upon +foreign imports. Their beef, mutton, and pork, are remarkably good, and +they have game in the mountains. + +By order of the late governor, in 1800, the population was taken from the +confessional returns, and, as he was himself a bishop, it may be inferred +that the number stated below, which I procured from official authority, is +accurate, viz. + + + + Number confessed, 95,000 + And, calculating 1 in 10 for children under 5 + years of age, the first period of their confession, + is equal to 3,500 + -------- + Making in the aggregate the number of souls to be 104,500 + -------- + + + +15,000 of whom were computed to be inhabitants of the town of Funchal. + +The government consists of a governor, appointed by the crown of Portugal, +the island being in its possession, styled governor of the islands, and: is +perfectly arbitrary; Funchal is his residence; he has a council under him +consisting of 24 members, whose president is the second judge for the time +being. All officers are nominated by the crown, and the holders continue +only for three years, at the end of which new nominations take place. + +The only article of trade is wine, of which they export about 12,000 pipes +annually, and consume from 6 to 8,000 pipes in the island, comprehending +_small wine_, &c. being in the whole about 20,000 pipes. It is made by +pressing out the juice from the grape in a wooden vessel, proportioned in +size to the quantity they intend to make. The wine-pressers take off their +jackets and stockings, get into the vessel, and with their elbows and feet +press as much of the juice as is practicable by this operation; the stalks +are then tied together and pressed, under a square piece of wood, by a +lever with a stone fastened to the end of it; the wine is brought from the +country in goat skins, by men and women on their heads. + +The roads are so steep and roughly paved, that neither carriages nor carts +are in use, the substitute is a palanquin for the former, and for the +latter a hollow log of wood, drawn by oxen, upon which the wine vessels or +other loads are placed; they, however, have horses and mules very well +adapted to their roads. + +The revenue to the crown of Portugal is estimated from 20 to 30,000_l_. +annually, clear of all expenses; but the balance of trade is greatly +against them, all their specie being drawn to Lisbon. + +The currency of the island is Spanish, and consists of dollars, converted +by their laws, into milreas of 5_s_. 6_d_. pistareens, value about is. +bits, about 6_d_. and half bits, about 3_d_. + +It is disadvantageous to take up money at Madeira upon bills, as they make +payment in dollars, which they value at a milrea. Sometimes they may, from +particular circumstances, give a premium, but it is seldom equal to the +discount. + +On the morning of the 18th I bad my grateful adieu to Madeira, and the +friendly roof of Mr. Wardrope and his united family, the abode of conjugal +affection, friendship, and hospitable reception; and at 2 P.M. went on +board. We weighed anchor under the protection of the Favorite, the Arab +continuing at her moorings. Passing between the grand Canary and close in +with Teneriffe, we arrived safe at the island of Goree, on the 5th of +November, without our commodore, under convoy of the Favorite. The ship +Andersons having freight to deliver at that island, we continued there +until the 12th, and again resumed our voyage; arriving, without accident; +at Bance Island, which I have previously noticed, on the 22d of the same +month. + +My residence was confined to this island, and in excursions through the +neighbouring countries, until the 4th June, 1806, during which period, and +from a general intercourse with an extended circle of chiefs, natives, and +traders, I have been enabled to decide upon the situation of this country, +and to form a conclusive opinion of the condition and character of its +inhabitants, and its commercial resources. + +From these sources of intelligence, and the example this island displayed, +with observations upon the conduct and management of the Sierra Leone +company, I first conceived the system that I shall hereafter delineate, +upon which the African's condition may be effectually improved, and his +hereditary slavery exterminated. + + + +[Illustration: BANCE ISLAND, in the RIVER SIERRA LEONE. _The Property of +John & Alexander Anderson Esq. London._] + + + +The natives of Africa resident upon the coast, are uniformly considered as +more ferocious and barbarous in their customs and manners, less numerous in +population, and more encroaching and deceitful, than those of the interior. +While this formidable opposition exists, and the baneful influence of +barbarous habits continues, it is in vain to look to remuneration by +natural commerce, or to the establishment of civilization. The African's +barbarity must be first here assailed, and the infinite resources upon the +coasts and maritime rivers must be developed to his view, to pre-dispose +him to refine his condition, and adopt the civilized habits of life; nor is +there any site which I have met with upon the Windward Coast of Africa, +more calculated to promote this beneficent undertaking, than the island of +Bance, from its locality of situation, being central to windward and +leeward operation, commanding an extensive circle of interior country, and +being long established in the estimation of the natives of an extended +district. But more of this subject in order. + + + +CHAPTER V. + + + + +_Observations upon the natural Productions of the River Sierra Leone.--The +Author explores its Branches, interior to Bance Island, the Rochelle, and +the Port Logo.--The Manners and Customs of the Inhabitants.--Their +Commerce.--The Author's safe Arrival at Miffaré._ + + +The river of Sierra Leone abounds in fish, and the spermaceti whale has +been occasionally found, the shark, the porpoise, eels, mackarel, mullet, +snappers, yellow tails, cavillos, tenpounders, &c. with the _mannittee_, a +singular mass of shapeless flesh, having much the taste of beef, which the +natives greatly esteem, and consider the highest offering they can make. + +Oysters are found in great abundance, attached to the interwoven twigs and +branches of the mangrove tree, to which they closely cling; and of the +zoophytes, there is the common sponge to be found upon the sandy beaches, +on the Boolum shore, and would, no doubt, bring a high price in England. + +The domestic animals of the adjoining countries are, cattle, sheep, goats, +hogs, ducks, turkeys, and fowls, very inferior, however, to those in +Europe. The beasts of prey are, lions, leopards, hyaenas, wild hogs in +abundance, squirrels, monkies, antelopes, &c. with the civet and zibeth +cats, and a most extraordinary animal, which is found in the mountains of +Sierra Leone and the adjacent countries, a species of the ourang outang, +called by the natives, japanzee, or chimpanzee, but approaching nearer to +the anatomy of the human frame than the former animal. Some of them, when +full grown, are nearly 5 feet, and are covered with black hair, long on the +back, but thin and short upon the belly and breast; the face is quite bare, +and the hands and feet resemble those of man; its countenance is remarkably +grave, similar to that of an old black man, but its ears are straight; it +will imitate a human being in walking, sleeping, eating, and drinking, and +is certainly a most singular production of nature. Surgeon Burrowes, whom I +have before mentioned, had a perfect skeleton of this animal, which, he +assured me, differed in nothing from the human, but in the spine, it being +curved. This skeleton, I believe, now forms a part of the collection of +Surgeon-General Keate. + +There are, of amphibious animals, green turtles, hawk's bills, and +loggerheads, which grow to a great size, some of them weighing several +hundred pounds, land turtles, fresh water turtles, alligators, extremely +voracious, and from 12 to 15 feet in length; they will swallow a man, and +at Bance Island Negro boys have been frequently snatched up by them from +the shore. There are also a variety of the lizard species, with the guava, +and camelion. + +Snakes abound; some of them haunt the houses in the night, and prowl about +for poultry, of which they are fond; some have been found to measure above +18 feet; and I have the skin of one in my possession, killed when young, +above 10 feet in length; it is that species which swallows its prey entire; +several animals were found in their perfect state when the one I allude to +was cut open. + +There is also an immense animal of this species, which I have heard the +natives of this part of the coast describe, often exceeding 30 feet in +length, and of an enormous size; it is variegated with spots, and the head +is covered with scales; the tongue is fleshy and forked, but its bite is +not poisonous; it is to be found in the recesses of caves and thickets, +from whence it suddenly darts upon its victim, whether man or beast: it +frequently chooses a tree, from which it reconnoitres the passing objects, +supporting itself by the tail, which it twists round the trunk or branches: +when it seizes animals, especially those of the larger kind, such as lions, +tigers, &c. it dexterously, and almost instantaneously twists itself round +their bodies in several folds, and by its powerful muscular force, breaks +the bones, and bruises it in all its parts; when this is done it covers the +animal with a viscous cohesive saliva, by licking its body with its tongue, +which facilitates the power of swallowing it entire; this process is +tedious, and it gradually sucks in the body, which, if large, renders it +incapable of moving for some time, until it digests; and this is the period +which the hunters watch to destroy it: it makes a hissing noise like a +serpent, and has recourse to a variety of expedients to conceal itself; it +is called by the natives _Tinnui_, and is what I apprehend naturalists term +the species of _Boa constrictor_: it is most commonly found in the sultry +climates of Africa, and I believe is also an inhabitant of Asia and +America. + +Insects are extremely numerous, of a nondescript species, and exceedingly +beautiful: the most singular are termites, destructive to houses and fences +built of wood; ants, causing ruin to provisions; cockroaches and crickets, +destroying leather, linen, and clothes; musquitos, sand-flies, centipedes, +scorpions; and wild bees, which are very productive of honey. The vermis +and large barnacles abound, which are so destructive to shipping without +copper bottoms. + +Esculent vegetables are various: Rice, which forms the chief part of the +African's sustenance. The rice-fields or _lugars_ are prepared during the +dry season, and the seed is sown in the tornado season, requiring about +four or five months growth to bring it to perfection. + +Yams, a nutritious substance, known in the West Indies. + +_Cassada_ or _cassava_, a root, of a pleasant taste when roasted or boiled, +and makes an excellent cake, superior in whiteness to flour. + +Papaw, of a deep green in its growth, but yellqw when ripe, and is an +excellent dish when boiled; its leaves are frequently used by the natives +for soap; ropes are made of the bark. + +Oranges and limes are in great abundance, and of superior quality, +throughout the year; but lemons degenerate much in their growth, and in a +few years are scarcely to be distinguished from the latter. Guavas, +pumpkins, or pumpions, squash water mellons, musk mellons, and cucumbers, +grow in the greatest perfection. The pumpkins grow in wild exuberance +throughout the year, and make a good pudding or pie. + +Indian corn, or maize, may be reaped several times throughout the year, +only requiring about three months growth. + +Millet, with a multiplicity too tedious to enumerate. + +Sugar canes are not very abundant, but are of a good quality, which, under +careful management and industry, would, no doubt, yield productive returns. + +Coffee trees, of different nondescript species, only requiring the same +interference. + +Dyes, of infinite variety and superior texture: yellow is procured from the +butter and tallow tree, producing a juice resembling gamboge, but more +cohesive, and of a darker colour; the wood of this tree is firm, and +adapted to a variety of purposes; its fruit is about the size of a tennis +ball, nearly oval, thick in the rind, and of a pleasant acid taste, +containing several seeds about the size of a walnut, and yielding a viscous +substance used by the natives in their food. Red and black are procured +from a variety of other trees and plants; and indigo growing in wild +exuberance, particularly in the rivers more to the northward. + +Cotton, in great varieties, requiring only cultivation to raise it to +perfection and amount. The natives manufacture from it a narrow cloth, +which is made from thread, spun in a manner similar to the distaff. + +A species of silk cotton, or ether down, is produced on a large tree, +called the pullam tree. The quantity which the usual size bears may be +computed at about 4 cwt. in pods of 6 to 9 inches long, 4-1/2 in +circumference, and about 1-1/2 inch in diameter, which, upon being exposed +to the heat of the sun, is distended to an incredible bulk. It is much +superior to down for the couch, and, from its elasticity, might be of great +utility in the manufacture of hats. This tree is in great estimation among +the Africans, and is frequently regarded by them as their _Fetish_. Every +town almost has a tree of this species towering over its huts, which its +chief tells the traveller with exultation he or his father planted. + +Tobacco is uncertain, but I entertain very little doubt that it might be +raised upon the more luxuriant soils. + +Pepper, more particularly near Cape Mount, of several sorts, Maboobo, +Massaaba, Massa, Amquona, Tosan, &c.; the three first are of a weaker +flavour, and are oblong and angular in their seeds; but the last excels in +pungency, and is the native Malaguetta pepper of Africa. + +The bread-fruit tree, is similar in appearance to the apple tree, and grows +in the low sandy situations of the Boolum shore, producing a fruit +exceedingly nutritious, and larger than an apple. + +Tamarinds in great variety and plenty: the velvet tamarind abounds in the +Bananas, also the white and brown; but the latter are most in esteem, and +are very fine. + +Okras, the fruit of a small tree, resembling the English mallows, which put +into soup gives it a gelatine quality, highly alimental; the leaves make a +good spinage. + +The palm tree, producing the oil so denominated, is one of the most useful +trees to the African, yielding him meat, drink, and raiment. Where it +grows, it is an indication of a good soil. It is remarkably tall, without +branches, having regular and gradual protuberances, from the bottom towards +the top, ending in five or six clusters of nuts, shaded by large deciduous +leaves. The nuts, which are about the size of a hazle nut, have a hard +kernel, encompassed by a clammy unctuous substance, covered by a thin skin, +and the oil is produced from them by being exposed to the sun, which, by +its influence, opens the juices; subsequent to this exposure, the nuts are +put into a boiler full of water, and a liquid, in the process of boiling, +flows upon the top, which when skimmed off, soon hardens and turns rancid; +the kernel of the nut, after this process, is taken out of the boiler, beat +in a paloon, and put into clear water, the shell of the nut sinks, and its +contents float upon the surface, which, when skimmed as before, is finally +put into a pot, fried, and carefully poured off, producing another kind of +oil, used as butter, and having in a great degree its quality. + +The wine is extracted from the tree by forming an incision at the bottom of +every cluster of nuts, from each of which flows about a gallon of wine per +day, for a week, when they are closed until the ensuing season. The liquid, +when newly taken from the tree, resembles whey, and in that state has a +sweetish agreeable taste, but it soon ferments and grows sour, changing to +a strong vinegar of a disagreeable smell: in its fermented state it is most +esteemed by the natives, and is productive of inebriety. + +A substance overtops the clusters about 10 or 12 inches in diameter, and 3 +or 4 feet in height, in a full grown tree, from whence proceeds a stalk, +about 4 inches in length, which, on being boiled in water, makes an +excellent vegetable resembling cabbage, or rather, in taste, the +cauliflower; the leaves of the tree are converted by the natives into +baskets, fishing nets, and cloth. + +MEDICINAL PLANTS. _Colla_ is highly esteemed by the natives, and they +attribute to it the virtues of Peruvian bark; the Portuguese, ascribe the +same quality to it, and dispatch from their factories small vessels to +collect all they can procure. + +_Castor Oil Rhinum_.-The bush which produces the bud from which this oil +and valuable medicine is extracted, grows in great exuberance upon the +Windward Coast, and its vicinity. A species of bark is in great abundance +also, and is said to be equal in virtue to the Peruvian. + +The foregoing enumeration of natural productions, is the result of +unscientific enquiry only; but unquestionably, industrious and professional +research, would discover infinitely more to philosophic and commercial +contemplation, and develope the arcana of nature, dormant here through +ignorance and barbarism. + +On the 10th of May, I set out from Bance Island, with the view of exploring +the two branches of the Sierra Leone river, the Rochelle, and the Port +Logo. After rowing a few hours I arrived at the factory of Miffaré, +formerly occupied by a Mr. Berauld, a Frenchman, but now attached to Bance +Island. + +Mr. Hodgkin, with his people, then in possession of the factory, +accompanied me up the Port Logo branch the following morning, taking a +number of towns in our way, and visiting the chiefs. The course of this +branch of the river is extremely serpentine, and is navigable for light +vessels to a little way from the town of Port Logo which is now the +residence of Alimami, a Mandingo chief, who assumes the title of emperor. +The banks are overgrown with the mangrove tree, interwoven together, so as +to form an almost impenetrable thicket, excluding the air, which, with the +extreme heat of the sun, and the noxious insects which are extracted by its +rays from the swamps and woods, renders this navigation intolerably +oppressive. The chief part of its trade is in slaves, camwood, and ivory, +the latter, however, being small, although Port Logo commands a very +extensive back country. When we came near the town of Port Logo, which is +extremely difficult of approach at low water, we announced our visit by +saluting in the manner of this country, which is what they call bush +firing, or in other words is a continued irregular firing of musquetry. + +It was soon discovered who we were, and crowds of natives flocked down from +the upper town, which is situated on the declivity of a hill, to give us +service, or to pay their respects. Our first visit was to _Marriba_, one of +Alimami's head men, and a resident of what they consider the lower town. + +Upon our arrival at Marriba's house, we found him at his devotions in the +palaver-house, a shed under which the natives daily assemble to pray, or +discuss public affairs. He received us with every demonstration of regard, +and immediately offered his services to conduct us to Alimami. The old +chief preceded us, with his long gold-headed cane, and our rear was brought +up by a number of armed men, who had assembled to give us a favourable +reception. Our salute had pleased Alimami, and being before known to him, +he was determined to shew us every respect. The heat of the sun was almost +intolerable, and before we arrived at the top of the hill where the +imperial palace stood, I was nearly exhausted. The entrance to this large +square of irregular mud buildings, is through a narrow passage or gate, +forming an oblong square of mud, covered with thatch, and facing Alimami's +house: we were ushered through this by one of his head men, and proceeded +in the order we set out to Alimami, who was seated at the top of the +square, surrounded by his chiefs, upon a mat spread upon a raised bank of +mud, dressed in a turban, after the Turkish fashion, and a loose manding, +robe, or shirt. + +Several pleaders were haranguing two of his judges, who were seated at a +distance, in palaver, or council, to take cognizance of a dispute relative +to some slaves; and although our arrival had excited the-curiosity of every +inhabitant of the town, yet we passed the tribunal without interruption, +their attention being absorbed on the subject of their sitting. The whole +compass of the square was scarcely equal to contain their oratory, their +voices being so extremely loud as to be heard distinctly, without the +walls, accompanied by menacing attitudes. Passing this declamatory +assembly, we paid our obeisance to Alimami, who was graciously pleased to +receive us in the manner of his country, with great civilities, and +immediately spread mats for us with his own hands, near himself. It was +impossible, although accustomed to these people, to contemplate the +surrounding objects without interest. I had previously been acquainted with +this chief at Bance Island, where he was in a high degree restrained by +European manners; but here, every thing was native and original. All came +to give us service, which is performed as I have mentioned. A goat and a +couple of fowls were next presented for our dinners, for which an offering +more valuable was expected, and of course complied with. This mutual +interchange of civilities being fulfilled, our attention was excited by the +orators, who by this time were extremely clamorous; one of them, with an +aspect the most furious, ran up to where I was seated, and addressing +Alimami, said, "that as proof his palaver be good, white man come to give +him service while he address him on the subject of his demand;" attaching +to that circumstance, the superstitious idea that he was right, and that I +was his _fetish_ to establish that right. + +I then enquired of Alimami the nature of the trial; he replied, "these men +tell their story, I appoint two judges to hear them, who are to report to +me what they say, and their opinions of the matter, but I hear all that +already and they cannot tell me wrong: I then give judgment," Or in other +words more expressive of his meaning; these men make their complaint to my +head men, or the judges I have appointed to hear it; it is their business +to make me a true report, and give me their opinion on the merits of the +case; and although I am not now supposed to hear it, yet I am so situated +as to hear the whole, and can thereby check any corrupt practices in the +judges. + +I had now leisure to examine the interior of Alimami's residence; it +consisted of a square of irregular buildings, thatched with bamboo, and +covered with roofs, supported by pillars of wood, at about 6 feet distance, +projecting about the same number of feet beyond the skeleton of the fabric, +and forming a kind of palisado, which serves as a shade for retirement from +the heat of the sun, and under which, the inhabitants indulge in repose, or +sit in familiar intercourse. + +During my conversation with Alimami, his brother, a fat jolly fellow, was +reposing himself upon his mat, reading his Arabic prayer book, which, upon +examination, I found executed in a neat character, and from his +interpretation, was a record of fabulous anecdotes of his family, and +containing confused extracts from the Koran. + +The Mandingos are professed Mahomedans, whose influence is spreading with +so much rapidity on this part of the coast, that several of the other +tribes have submitted to their authority; so strong an impression has their +superior attainments and book-knowledge imprinted on their minds. In no +instance can their growing influence appear more conspicuous than in that +of Alimami being vested with authority over the Port Logo, of which he is +not a native, and over a people originally infidels. Formerly this tribe of +Mandingos were itinerant _fetish_ makers and priests, but now they are +numerous to the northward of Sierra Leone, from whence a wide district +receives their rulers and chieftains. + +After an audience of considerable length, Alimami retired with several of +his chiefs, and soon after I had a message that he wished to see me in +another part of his dwelling. I had previously noticed to him that I +intended shortly to embark for my country. When conducted to his presence, +he very emphatically enquired "if what I tell him be true?" I replied "it +was; but that I go to do him and his countrymen good; that he know this was +the second time I look them, but never forget them." "We all know that," he +replied, "but white man that come among us, never stay long time; you be +good man, and we wish you live among us--How many moon you be gone from +us?"--"About ten moon; how would you like to go with me, Alimami?"--"I +like that much, but black man not be head enough to do what white man +does;" and putting his hand to his bosom, he took from it a piece of gold +in the form of a heart; and said, "take that for me." To have refused it +would have been an insult; I therefore accepted it; adding, "that I would +tie it to fine riband, and wear it when I look my country, to let +Englishmen see what fine present he make me." He was quite pleased with the +idea, and expressed his satisfaction with great fervency. + +Soon after, I offered to take my leave, and was accompanied by him and his +chiefs to the gate, where I bade him adieu, and passed through the town, +paying my respects to its inhabitants, and among others, to the +schoolmaster, whose venerable appearance, and superior intelligence, +excited my respect and esteem. + +Upon our return to Marriba's house, we were happy to partake of a country +mess of rice, boiled with fowls, palm oil, and other compounds. The chief +could not be prevailed to eat with us, but attended us with great assiduity +during our meal. The imperial guard accompanied us to our canoe, and we +returned to Miffaré without accident. + +The following morning we proceeded to the branch of the Rochell, which we +found more diversified and picturesque than the Port Logo, and its borders +better inhabited. + +Proceeding up this branch, and visiting the chiefs in our way, and the +inhabitants of a number of villages, we arrived at Billy Manshu's Town, a +little chief of very considerable intelligence, and who treated us with +great hospitality: here we slept. + +We arose early, and pursued our course up the branch, passing one of the +most regular built towns I have observed in Africa, now Morrey Samba's, but +formerly Morrey Bunda's Town. Morrey Bunda was originally a Manding, and +_fetish_ maker to Smart, the chief who commands an extensive country on +that side of the Rochell branch towards the Sherbro, and rose into notice +and influence: he is now dead. The town is surrounded by a mud wall, and at +the entrance, and upon each angle of the oblong square which encloses it, +there are towers erected for the purposes of defence. The wall, with the +towers, completely obscures the buildings which form the town, and serve as +a guard against any depredations of enemies, while it shelters the +inhabitants from the effects of their arrows or musquetry. Morrey Bunda has +displayed in his plans of fortifications, considerable ingenuity, +considering the circumstances he had to provide against, and the predatory +nature of African wars, which are uniformly to surprise the inhabitants of +a village or town while asleep, or in any other unguarded state, seldom or +ever coming to a general engagement in the open country, but acting under +the protection of some ambush, or other place of security, which, while it +is calculated to conceal their numbers, serves as a retreat from their +successful opponents. + +Leaving Morrey Samba's we passed by a number of other villages, until we +arrived at one of Smart's trading towns, called Mahera, situated upon an +eminence, and commanding a most delightful prospect of the meandering +course of the river, interspersed with islands, displaying a great +diversity of appearance. + +Smart has very wisely chosen this spot, as it is not only a charming +situation, healthy, and delightful, but well situated to command a very +extensive internal trade in camwood and ivory, besides being contiguous to +the Sherbro, from whence a great portion of the camwood is procured, and +situated on the principal branch of the Sierra Leone. In addition to these +local advantages, he has recently opened a path with the interior, +communicating with the Foolah country, which is entirely under his +influence, and which he can open and shut at pleasure. It would be of +incalculable advantage to any operation to secure the friendship of this +chief: he possesses a very superior mind, and, from his connection with +Bance Island, has acquired a knowledge of European ideas and manners seldom +to be met with among any of the chiefs on this part of the coast. From the +various opportunities I have had to consult Smart on his general sentiments +relative to his country, and the freedom of intercourse I have had with +him, I am well persuaded that he would be a powerful and intelligent +auxiliary in promoting the civilization of his country, upon a liberal +principle, calculated to its condition, and having a tendency to eradicate +its barbarism; but he is one, of many more upon this quarter of the coast, +who have no reliance upon the attempts that have been made, and deplores, +with regret, that through the want of a correct knowledge of the +dispositions of his countrymen, an ignorance of the nature of the evil to +be removed, and the invidious principles which constituted the +establishments that have been formed to promote this beneficent +undertaking, his country is still excluded from the light of truth, and the +refined arts of civilized life. + +From Mahera we proceeded to Rochell, another of Mr. Smart's towns, more +insular, where I expected to have met him, in conformity with an +arrangement previously made, to visit him at his towns, and see, as he +observed, his country fashion. Upon our reaching this point of our +expedition, we were saluted by a numerous assemblage of chiefs and natives, +going to join my friend Smart in one of his wars with his opposite +neighbours and rivals, the Cammarancies, inhabiting the country towards the +Port Logo. The cause of quarrel was, that these people had seized upon the +rafts and canoes which brought the camwood over the falls higher up the +river, and had demolished several storehouses belonging to Smart and his +people, engaged in that trade. Smart, with a part of his forces, had +crossed the river only an hour before, and another division were embarking +to join him at a place of rendezvous upon the enemy's territory, with the +intention of cautiously approaching during the night to some of their +towns, and surprising them before they had arisen from sleep. Nothing could +exceed the novelty of this sight; the chiefs and their followers were armed +with their bows and arrows, and other rude implements of war, and +completely in their native character; in addition to their native weapons, +some had musquets, procured from Europeans in trade, swords, and various +other manufacture, supplied by traders, exhibiting an appearance, of which +no idea can be formed, without a personal knowledge of this barbarous +people. The chiefs, in particular, were covered with _gris-gris_ and +_fetishes_, a mixture of feathers and other preposterous materials, +calculated to obliterate any trace of human appearance, and possessing the +virtue, as they conceived, of shielding them from danger. Solemn _palaver_ +is always held upon these occasions, and their _gris-gris_ makers, _fetish_ +men, and priests, exorcise their absurd decorations, which, in their +estimation, operate as guardian angels in the hour of difficulty and peril. + +Having occasion to visit a gentleman resident at some distance, we left our +canoes at Rochell, and proceeded on foot. _Cabba_, one of the chiefs, +accompanied us with a guard, being apprehensive, as he observed, that "bad +might happen us, as war live in the country." We passed through a +remarkably fertile country, presenting an infinite variety of natural +productions. Our path was frequently lined with pine-apples, in all the +luxuriance of nature; but amidst this animating landscape, we beheld +deserted villages, ravaged by the ferocious hand of man; and all the traces +of barbarous devastation. We fell in with several armed parties, with whom +I conversed upon the subject of the war, which appeared to be of a +predatory nature, and the consequence of insatiate avarice and barbarous +habits. + +At length we arrived, much fatigued, at Mr. Green's (at Massou), with whom +we rested for the night, receiving every kindness and attention in his +power to bestow. I am indebted to this gentleman for a variety of useful +information relative to a wide extent of country. His education and +acquirements are of the first class, and I could not view such a man, +insulated from polished society, which he was qualified to adorn, and shut +up in the wilds of Africa, among barbarians, without a mixture of pain and +surprise; nor did I depart from him without sympathy and regret, after he +had confided to me his motives, and the outlines of his life, which were +marked with eventful incidents, and extraordinary occurrences. + +It was my object to have proceeded from Massou to Rocond, the principal +town of Smart's residence, and from thence to penetrate to the falls of the +river, which, from every information I received, exhibit a sublime scene; +but, on account of the disturbed state of the country, and that chiefs +absence, I was obliged to give up my intention, and return to Rochell, from +whence we rowed down the river to the town of our little hospitable chief, +Billy Manshu; where we stayed the night. The following day we arrived safe +at Miffaré; and although Smart had given orders at Mahera to stop all +canoes, we were suffered to pass; the chiefs observing, "that they knew we +would not tell their enemies, when we came among them, what we saw them +do." Had we been strangers, it is more than probable we should have fallen +victims to the fury of these barbarians, who, in the towns we passed, were +excited to a savage fierceness, highly descriptive of the natural ferocity +of the African character. + +At Miffaré, formerly occupied by Monsieur Berauld, as previously noticed, +who had lately paid the common debt of nature, and who was here buried by +his own desire, I had the opportunity of ascertaining a singular custom +prevalent in this country towards the dead, and which strongly elucidates +the prevailing ideas of its inhabitants, relative to the immortality of the +soul and a future state. + +After Monsieur Berauld's interment, his women, and the head people of the +town, assembled round the grave occasionally, for a series of days, +requiring every evening, from Mr. Hodgkin, a candle to light his grave, +which they kept burning during the period of their mourning, under the idea +that it would light him in the other world. In addition to this, a still +more singular rite was performed on this occasion, by Alimami, of the Port +Logo, and a numerous assemblage of natives, who sacrificed a bull to the +departed spirit of Berauld, who was held in great estimation among them. +From authority I cannot doubt, I am persuaded that when slaves have been +redundant, human sacrifices have been offered to the manes of their +favourite chiefs and princes. This horrid custom, which is even extended, +in many of the districts of Africa, to the productions of the earth, is a +most serious subject to contemplate, and a feature of barbarism, pregnant +with melancholy consequences to that class of beings, whom a late +legislative act has abandoned to contingencies, and the uncontrolled power +and avarice of other nations. + + + +CHAPTER VI. + + + + +_Return to Bance Island.--General Observations on the Commerce, Religion, +Customs, and Character of the Natives upon the Windward Coast.--An Account +of the requisite Merchandize for Trade, the best Mode of introducing +natural Commerce and Civilization into Africa, &c._ + + +The morning after my last arrival at Miffaré I returned to Bance Island; +before I leave it, it may not perhaps be considered as inexpedient at this +stage of my narrative, to submit to my readers an account of the present +state of commerce upon the Windward Coast of Africa, the merchandize used +therein, a general outline of the religion, customs, and character of its +natives, and the system I conceive eligible, and consistent with the +claims of humanity, by which their intellectual powers may be improved, and +their enslaved state ameliorated; while our commercial ascendency may be +preserved with this region of the earth, and our enemies excluded from +those important advantages, which it only requires intelligence and +enterprise to unfold. + +In accomplishing this important part of my duty I beg leave to state, that +my reflections are the result of much deliberation upon the subject, +derived from manifold sources of information, and that I am the zealous +advocate of the radical abolition of the slavery of the human kind. The +motives by which I am actuated are, a philanthropic feeling for my species, +Christian principles, humanity, and justice: however I may differ, in the +means I shall propose, from many truly benevolent characters, yet I trust +that they will do me the justice to consider that my intentions are +congenial with theirs in the cause of humanity. + +I shall confine myself to a digested summary of actual observations on the +trade, laws, customs, and manners of the people I have had occasion to +visit; nor shall I attempt to enter into a minute detail on subjects +already ably delineated to British merchants, and with which they are +intimately conversant; but I shall treat of those branches of commerce +which have been hitherto confined to local knowledge, and not generally +known; submitting to the superior powers of the legislature, the +incalculable advantages to be derived by their interference to promote the +agricultural and commercial establishments upon the maritime districts of +Africa, as the only appropriate measure to attain a facility of intercourse +with the interior, and to enlarge the circle of civilised society. + +If my endeavours tend to increase the commerce of my country, and +eventually to emancipate the African, my design will be accomplished, and +my fondest hopes will be gratified. + +In pursuance of my plan, I shall first detail the present number of slaves, +and dead cargo, annually exported, upon an average, from the Windward Coast +of Africa, &c. from the information acquired from the traders of most +intelligence in respective rivers, and from my own observation. + + + +| | | | | | | |Amount +| | | | | | | |Sterling +| NAMES OF PLACES |A |B |C |D |E |F | £ +|---------------------|-------|----|----|------|----|----|--------- +|River Gambia, and | | | | | | | +|Island of Goree . . .| 2,000 | 15 |-- |-- |150 |-- | 60,250 +|Rio Noonez. . . . . .| 600 | 20 |-- |-- |-- |-- | 19,000 +|Rio Pongo . . . . . .| 2,000 | 30 |60 |-- |-- |-- | 52,000 +|River Sierra Leone, | | | | | | | +|adjacent Rivers, | | | | | | | +|and Isles de Loss, | 3,200 | 15 |200 |800 |-- |-- | 82,250 +|inclusive . . . . . .| | | | | | | +|River Sherbro . . . .| 500 |-- |200 |300 |-- |-- | 18,000 +|---- Gallunas. . . .| 1,200 |-- | 80 |-- |-- |-- | 26,000 +|Cape Mount to | | | | | | | +|Cape Palmas . . . . .| 2,000 | 20 |-- |-- |-- |100 | 48,000 +| |-------|----|----|------|----|----|-------- +| |11,500 |100 |540 |1,100 |150 |100 |305,500 + + +A-Slaves, B-Ivory, C-Camwood, D-Rice, E-Bees Wax, F-Malaguetta Pepper + + + +Estimating slaves at 20_l_. each; ivory, 350_l_.; camwood, 25_l_.; rice, +10_l_.; wax, 100_l_.; and Malaguetta pepper, 10_l_. per ton, at first cost +upon the coast of Africa; the whole produces the sum of 305,500_l_. +sterling; to which may be added a three-fold export to leeward, which will +make an aggregate amount of nearly _one million_ sterling. In addition to +the foregoing exemplification, we have to contemplate the great +multiplicity of natural productions, abounding in this extent of region, +namely, indigo, numerous plants for staining, cotton in wild exuberance, +cocoa, coffee, and aromatic plants, &c. &c. Wild bees are so extremely +numerous, that wax forms an important article of trade which might be +considerably increased; substances proper for making soap are also to be +found in great abundance, raw hides, more especially in the Gambia, and the +countries insular to the Rio Noonez and Rio Pongo; gold is procured from +Bambouk, and tobacco is found in every direction, which might be greatly +increased by cultivation and an improved soil; cattle, poultry, Guinea +hens, different species of game, fish, with other animals; fruits, and a +variety of vegetable productions, calculated to satisfy every luxurious +want and desire. To these objects of commerce may be added, the now +important article of sugar, which might be raised to a great amount, in +various districts of Africa, as the climate is propitious to the growth of +the sugarcane, which, under proper cultivation, might be raised in great +perfection. + +The lands upon the banks of the Gambia, the Rio Noonez, the Rio Grande, the +Rio Pongo, in the Mandingo country, Sierra Leone, Sherbro, &c. are +universally allowed to be extremely fertile in many places, and abundant in +vegetation and population. + +These countries produce various hard woods, well adapted to cabinet work +and ship building, and are singular in their qualites and properties. + +The most remarkable are, 1st. the cevey, or kinney wood, which grows about +the size of the oak, in England, and may be cut into planks of 20 feet by +15 inches. Its texture is something of the ash grey and mahogany, +variegated with stripes, fancifully disposed, and is therefore adapted to +cabinet work; its qualities for ship building are peculiar, having the +virtue of resisting the worm and vermis, so destructive to shipping in +tropical climates, and corroding iron; it grows in great abundance. Any +quantity of this wood put into water sufficient to cover it, will, in a few +hours, produce an unctuous substance floating on the top, resembling +verdigrise, and of a poisonous quality. + +Secondly, the dunjay wood, rather coarser in the grain, but harder in +quality than the Spanish Bay mahogany. It possesses the same peculiarities +as the cevey or kinney, in resisting the worm in salt water, and corroding +iron. It may be procured in any quantity. And, Thirdly, the melley wood, or +_gris-gris_ tree, another species of mahogany, abundant in growth, having a +more rare quality than the foregoing, resisting the worm in both salt and +fresh water; it is extremely hard, and its juices so poisonous, in the +premature state, as to cause instant death. + +The manifold and neglected productions of this extraordinary continent +require only to be developed, and when the useful arts of Europe are +introduced here, ample recompense will attend the benevolent undertaking, +natural history will be much enlarged, and mankind be greatly benefited. +The claims of humanity, the distinguished part it has taken in an unnatural +and much to be deplored commerce, loudly unite with a wise policy, in one +impressive appeal to the feelings of the more refined inhabitants of +Europe, and to none more than those of Englishmen. + +The goods adapted to African commerce are, + +_East India goods_--consisting of bafts, byrampauats, chilloes, romals, +neganipauts, niccanees, red and blue chintz, Guinea stuffs, bandanoes, +sastracundies, &c. + +_Manchester goods_.--Cotton chilloes, cushtaes, neganipauts, photaes, romal +handkerchiefs, silk handkerchiefs, &c. _Linen Britanias_, slops, spirits, +tobacco, guns, swords, trade chests, cases, jars, powder, umbrellas, boats, +canvas, cordage, pitch, tar, paints, oil, and brushes, empty kegs, kettles, +pans, lead basons, earthenware, hardware, beads, coral, iron bars, lead +bars, common caps, Kilmarnock ditto, flints, pipes, leg and hand manilloes, +snuff boxes, tobacco boxes, cargo hats, fine ditto, hair trunks, knives, +looking glasses, scarlet cloth, locks, shot, glass ware, stone ware, +provisions, bottled ale and porter, &c. &c. + +The foregoing general enumeration may serve to convey a just conception of +the various manufactures requisite in the African trade, and the different +branches to which it is allied, yeilding support to a numerous body of +merchants, manufacturers, artizans, and many of the labouring class of the +community. + +Generally speaking, the Africans are unacquainted with specie as a +circulating medium of commerce, although they form to themselves an ideal +standard, by which they estimate the value of the commodities in barter; +this, however, fluctuates on various parts of the coast. + +From Senegal to Cape Mesurado, the medium of calculation is termed a _bar_; +from thence to the eastward of Cape Palmas, the computation is in _rounds_; +and on the Gold Coast in _ackies_ of gold, equal to 4_l_. sterling, and of +trade only half that value. + +At Goree the bar, under the French, was 4, pieces of 24 sous, and 1 of 6; +but at present the bar is considered a dollar. + +The bar is by no means a precise value, but subject to much variation; the +quantity and quality of the articles materially differing in many parts of +the coast, and frequently on rivers of a near vicinity; for example, six +heads of tobacco are equal in trade to a bar, as is a gallon of rum, or a +fathom of chintz. + +A piece of cloth which, in one place, will only pass for 6 bars, will in +others fluctuate to 10; hence the trader must form an average standard, to +reduce his assortment to an equilibrium. + +The following are the barter prices now established throughout a +considerable extent of the Windward Coast; but it is to be observed, they +are subject to fluctuation from locality of situation and other +circumstances. + + + + 1 blue baft 6 bars + 1 bonny chintz & stripe 8 + 1 white baft 6 + 1 byrampaut 6 + 1 chilloe 6 + 1 bijudapaut 6 + 1 cushtae 5 + 1 bonny blue romal 5 + 1 niccanee 5 + 1 sastracundie 4 + 1 India cherridery 6 + 1 taffety 15 + 1 cottanee 12 + 1 dozen britannias 8 + 1 piece of bandanas 6 + 1 barrel of powder 60 + 1 fowling gun 8 + 1 burding 6 + 1 soldier's gun 5 bars + 1 buccanier ditto 6 + 1 dozen of cutlasses 8 + 1 sword blade 2 + 1 iron bar 1 + 1000 arangoes 30 + 1 bunch of point beads 1 + 1 bunch of mock coral 1 + Red pecado 3lb. for 1 + Seed beads, ditto 1 + Battery ditto 1 + 1 Mandingo kettle 1 + 1 dozen of hardware 3 + 1 bason 1 + 1 ton of salt 60 + 1 fine hat 3 + Tobacco, 6lb. to 1 + Rum, per gallon 1 + + + +Prime ivory is procured at a bar per lb, and _escrevals_, or pieces under +20lb. 1 bar for each 1-1/2lb. + +As the natives are unacquainted with arithmetic, their numerical +calculations are carried on by counters of pebbles, gun-flints, or cowries. + +After the number of bars is decided upon, a counter, or pebble, &c. is put +down, representing every bar of merchandize, until the whole is exhausted, +when the palaver is finished; and, as they have very little idea of the +value of time, they will use every artifice of delay and chicane to gain a +bar. + +In matters of less consequence they reckon with their fingers, by bending +the little finger of the right hand close to the palm, and the other +fingers in succession, proceeding to the left hand, concluding the +calculation by clapping both the hands together; and if it requires to be +extended, the same process is repeated. + +Among the Foulahs in particular, commercial transactions are carried on +with extreme tardiness; a _palaver_ is held over every thing they have for +barter. The season in which they chiefly bring their trade to the coast is +during the dry months, and they generally travel in caravans, under the +control of a chief or head man. The head man of the party expects to be +lodged and accommodated by the factor, and before they enter upon business, +he expects the latter _to give him service_, or a present of kola, +Malaguetta pepper, tobacco, palm oil, and rice; if they eat of the kola, +and the present is not returned, the head man begins the trade, by making a +long speech, in which he magnifies the difficulties and dangers he has had +to surmount, &c.; mutual interpreters report this harangue. The trade for +rice is settled with little delay, but every tooth of ivory requires a new +palaver, and they will dispute for a whole day for a bar with the most +determined firmness. + +When the palaver and trade is gone through, they again expect a present, +and if they are pleased with the factor, they march off singing his +praises, which they communicate to all they meet on the road. + +The annual return from this commerce in colonial productions, has been from +_two_ to _three millions sterling_; for although large remittances have +been made in bills to the African merchants, yet these bills have been +provided for in produce by the planters. Politically considered, it will +appear, that its regeneration might have been more appropriately the +progressive work of time; and humanely viewed, it will also appear, from my +subsequent remarks, that by those means alone the African can be freed from +his shackles, and his condition efficaciously improved. + +But to proceed with the intention of this chapter, I shall next make some +remarks on the religion, customs, and character of the natives of the +Windward Coast. + +The natives on this part of the coast, and indeed throughout Africa, are in +general extremely superstitious; they believe in witchcraft, incantations, +and charms, and in certain Mahomedan doctrines, adopted from itinerant +devotees and priests of that persuasion, who are numerous among them, and +make a trade of selling charms. The Baggoes, Nellos, Susees, Timinees, &c. +occasionally worship and offer sacrifices to the Devil, and are equally +confused in their conception of the Supreme Being, of whose attributes they +entertain an assemblage of indistinct ideas, of which it is impossible to +give any clear description. They will tell the traveller with great apathy, +"they never saw him, and if he live he be too good to hurt them." Their +acts of devotion are the consequence of fear alone, and are apparently +divested of any feelings of thankfulness or gratitude for the blessing they +receive from the good Spirit which they suppose to exist. The Devil, or +evil spirit, which they suppose to exist also, claims their attention from +the injury they suppose him capable of inflicting, and is worshipped under +a variety of forms; at one time in a grove, or under the shade of a large +tree, consecrated to his worship, they place, for the gratification of his +appetite; a _country mess_, a goat, or other offering of this nature, which +they may conceive to be acceptable to his divinity, who, however, is often +cozened out of the offering by some sacreligious and more corporeal +substance, to whose nature and wants it is more congenial; at some periods +great faith is attached to their _fetish_, as an antidote against evil; and +at others the alligator, the snake, the guava, and a number of other living +animals and inanimate substances are the objects of their worship. Like +other unenlightened nations, a variety of external beings supply the want +of the principles of Christianity; hence the counterfeit adoption and +substitution of corporate qualities as objects of external homage and +reverence. + +_Fetish_, derived from the word _Feitico_, denotes witchcraft among the +majority of the maritime nations of Africa: this superstition is even +extended to some Europeans after a long residence in that country, and is +an expression of a compound meaning, forming an arrangement of various +figures, which constitute the objects of adoration, whether intellectually +conceived, or combined with corporeal substances; even the act of devotion +itself; or the various charms, incantations, and buffoonery of the priests +and fetish makers, who abound among them. In short, it is an incongruous +composition of any thing dedicated to the purpose; one kind of fetish is +formed of a piece of parchment containing an expression or sentence from +the Koran, which is associated with other substances, sewed up in a piece +of leather, and worn upon several parts of their bodies. Another kind is +placed over the doors of their huts, composed of distorted images besmeared +with palm oil, and stuck with feathers, some parts are tinged with blood, +and the whole is bedaubed with other preposterous applications. + +_Ghresh_, or _Gresh_, is an expression in the Arabic tongue, meaning to +expel or drive away, and, as I apprehend, by the repetition of the word, is +the expression from which the African _gris-gris_ is derived, consisting of +exorcised feathers, cloth, &c., short sentences from the Koran, written on +parchment, and enclosed in small ornamented leathern cases, worn about +their persons, under the idea that it will keep away evil spirits, and is a +species of _fetish_. + +The Mandingos, or book-men, are great _fetish_ makers, many of them being +well versed in the Arabic tongue, and writing it in a neat character. From +the impression of their superior learning and address, their influence and +numbers daily increase, many of them having become rulers and chiefs in +places where they sojourned as strangers, The religion they profess in +common with the Foolahs, Jolliffs, and other Mahomedan tribes, is +peculiarly adapted to the sensual effiminacy of the Africans: the doctrines +of Mahomet contained in their book I have procured from a very intelligent +chief in the Rio Pongo, and when I compare his account with others of his +nation on this part of the coast, the Foolahs, and the Mahomedan tribes in +the vicinity of the Island of Goree, I am persuaded the following is the +portion of the Islam faith believed by them. + +1st. That God is above all, and not born of woman. + +2d. That Mahomet stands between God and man, to intercede for him; that he +is superior to all beings born of woman, and is the favorite of God. And, + +3d. That he has prepared for the meanest of his followers and believers +_seventy-two bouris_, or black-eyed girls of superior beauty, who are to +administer to all their pleasures, and participate with them in the +enjoyment of the fountains and groves of paradise, and in the gratification +of those appetites congenial to their nature and existence in this world. +This nearly amounts to the entire belief of Mahomet's doctrine, which is +nothing but a compound of this eternal truth and necessary fiction; namely, +"that there is only one God, and Mahomet is the apostle of God:" from +hence, in the idiom of the Koran, the belief of God is inseparable from the +apostolic character of Mahomet. The fertile and politic imagination of this +impostor admirably adapted his tenets to the prevailing and established +customs; he tolerates polygamy, &c. and to add to the sanctity of his +pernicious doctrines, he represents himself as having been visited by the +angel Gabriel, in the cave of Hera, where he communicated to him the +precepts of the Koran, in the month of Ramadan, which he enjoins as a fast; +he interdicts wine, and inculcates the necessity of praying five times a +day, facing the holy city, &c.; forming together a system of the most +insidious character towards the establishment of pure Christianity. In the +performance of the duties of their belief, the Mahomedan nations of Africa, +upon the coast, are exact and scrupulous, but they have no idea of the +intellectual doctrines of the Islam faith, or the happiness described by +Mahomet as enjoyed by superior saints in the beatitude of vision; they are +as perplexed on this subject as they are in their conceptions of the divine +nature, and discover a surprising contraction of mental powers, when +considered as human beings endowed with reason. + +The nations, upon the Windward Coast, are in general little influenced by +belief in their actions. Forgiveness of injuries they conceive incompatible +with the nature of man; and a spirit of retaliation is very prevalent and +hereditary, descending in succession from father to son. They are extremely +jealous of white men, designing, ferocious, and cowardly; but there are, +notwithstanding, a great variety of localities existing among them, and it +will be found that their climate and habits are closely assimilated. + +To the Africans, the indispensible articles of life are reduced to a very +narrow compass, and they are unacquainted with the insatiate wants of +Europeans. The heat of the climate renders cloathing an incumberance, and +occasions a carelessness with regard to their dwellings: for the former, +they require only a stripe of linen, and their _gris-gris_; while a +building of mud, covered with an interwoven and thatched roof, forms the +latter, which is reared with little labour, and, when circumstances require +it, is abandoned without much regret. + +The food of the Negro consists chiefly of rice, millet, &c. seasoned with +palm oil, butter, or the juices of the cocoa-nut tree mixed with herbs of +various kinds. They frequently regale themselves with other dishes, +kous-kous, and country mess, to which they sometimes add fowls, fish, and +flesh, heightened in the flavour by a variety of savory applications. + +A contracted system of agriculture, conducted by their women and slaves, in +a very few days prepares the _lugars_, or cultivated fields; and the +harvest is distributed by the elders of the community, according to the +portion and wants of the society of the village, or is stored up to be +portioned out as circumstances may require. + +Water is the ordinary drink of the Negroes; they, however, regale +themselves with a wine extracted from the palm tree, as before described, +which, in the luxury of indulgence, they frequently suck through a very +small kind of cane, until inebriety and stupidity absorb them in a perfect +state of apathy. They have also a very pleasant beverage, extracted from +the cocoa nut and banana tree, besides several descriptions of beer, +fermented from various roots and herbs. In the Rio Pongo, and adjacent +countries, especially in the Bashia branch of that river, the Soosees +extract a fermented and intoxicating liquor from a root growing in great +abundance, which they call _gingingey_, something similar to the sweet +potatoe in the West Indies. The distillation is commenced by forming a pit +in the earth, into which a large quantity of the root is put, and covered +with fuel, which is set on fire, and kept burning until the roots are +completely roasted: the roots are then put into paloons, and beat, exposed +afterwards in mats to the sun, by which they acquire a taste similar to +honey; and are afterwards put into hampers for distillation. This is +performed by making a funnel of sticks in a conical form, interwoven +together like basket-work; the funnel is filled with the material, and +water poured upon it; the succulent moisture therefrom passes through a +tube, and yields a liquid similar in colour to coffee, and of a violent +purgative quality. It remains in this state about twenty-four hours, and is +then incorporated with a quantity of the ashes of rice-straw, which excites +a bubbling fermentation like boiling water, after which it becomes fit for +use. In forty-eight hours it returns again to its purgative state, which +interval is employed in drinking most copiously, until overtaken by +insensibility and intoxication. The root, in its roasted state, is an +excellent medicine for colds. + +Indigo and cotton grow in wild exuberance almost every where, without +culture, and the women collect such quantities as they consider requisite +for their families, which they prepare and spin upon a distaff; the thread +is woven, by an apparatus of great simplicity, into fillets, or pieces from +six to nine inches broad, which are sewed together to any width, required +for use. The indigo, in its indigenous state, and a variety of other +plants, colour these cloths, an ell of which will serve as a dress for a +Negroe of the lower class. + +They manufacture cloths, of a very fanciful pattern, from various +substances. I have some from the rind of the cocoa-nut, of great beauty, +and a fine texture; also cloth, fine mats, baskets, hats, ornaments, +quivers, arrows, &c. which all prove the taste and ingenuity of the +natives. + +The Negro is attached by love about his thirteenth year, and from sixteen +to twenty he seeks the object of his affection. This choice generally +continues in his confidence during life; and in proportion as he acquires +wealth, he associates with her several concubines, who generally live +cordially together. From this acquisition to his household, he is +considered rich; and it is a common expression with the Negro to say, "such +a man be rich, he have much woman." When an object excites his desire, he +consults his head woman, who, without any apparent suspicion of rivalry, +gives her assent, and forwards his suit; but she is displeased when not +consulted; and it is not uncommon that the object falls a victim to her +jealousy. Celibacy is a state almost unknown in Africa; and when it does +occur, it is considered as a degradation. + +The Negroe's existence is almost a gratuitous gift of nature; his wants are +supplied without laborious exertion, his desires are gratified without +restraint, his soul remains in peaceful indolence and tranquillity, and his +life glides on in voluptuous apathy and tranquil calm: he has few +solicitudes or apprehensions, and he meets the stroke of fate with perfect +resignation. + +In the countries which I have visited, and, as I understand from others, +every principal village or town has its _bantaba_, or _palaver-house_, +which I have before described. In this house, or under the shade of some +venerable tree, all ranks occasionally assemble in groups, from sun-rising +to sun-set, and pass the time in chit-chat, or in conversation on public +affairs. Their subjects are inexhaustible, and their tittle-tattle is +carried on with surprising volubility, gaiety, and delight; their time thus +occupied is so seducing, that they separate with great reluctance, +sometimes passing the entire day in this, pratling, smoaking, and +diversion: night, however, terminates these amusements: They assemble in +the open air during the dry season, and under the palaver-houses in the +wet, where they form themselves into dancing companies, generally during +half the night, and not unfrequently the whole of it. Their instruments of +music are upon a very rude construction, consisting of a _tabila_, or drum, +hollowed out from a piece of wood, and covered at each end with a bull's +hide, producing a most barbarous noise, accompanied by a _baba_, or rattle, +loud shouts, palaver, songs, and violent gesticulations, forming a system +of confused uproar, unmusical, and ungraceful. Their motions are irregular, +sometimes in violent contortion, and at others voluptuous and slow. Nothing +can be done without a palaver; and at the change of every dance, he from +whom the proposition originates, makes a solemn harangue over the musical +instruments, which is generally descriptive of some warlike action or +exploit, when they again give themselves up with rapture to the pleasures +of the dance, the females in particular, whose actions and shew of +luxuriant pleasure are highly offensive to delicacy, exhibiting all the +gradations of lascivious attitude and indecency. At this period of unusual +delight, they are applauded by the men with rapturous ardour; but suddenly +a feeling of shame strikes the minds of the young creatures with a +humiliating sense of their display, and amidst these plaudits they hastily +retire to the matrons, who are spectators of the scene, and hide their +blushes in their bosoms. So strongly implanted is this ingenuous and +amiable modesty in youth, which is frequently laid aside when engaged in +the vortex of pleasure, that it is one of the highest charms of beauty; and +wretches only, degraded by debauchery and systematic vice, are capable of +insulting this sentiment. A scrupulous regard to modesty and truth will not +permit me to pursue the description of these amusements farther than +observing, that they prepare them for a profound and tranquil sleep on +their mats, from whence they arise at the dawn of day cheerful and easy. +Thus infancy and youth are singularly happy, and mothers attend their +offspring with maternal feeling and delight; they are neither disturbed by +painful commands or restraint; and it is a picture of perfect happiness to +see these children of nature in sportive groups and infantine diversion. +This happy infancy and gay youth is peculiarly calculated to organise a +vigorous manhood, and a firm old age; and, I am persuaded, that these are +the physical causes why the Negro race are so muscular in body, and +procreative of their species. In some countries innoculation is practised; +but the small pox is not so common, or dreadful in its effects, in these +countries as in Europe. The greatest term of their lives may be computed at +from sixty to seventy years, it seldom or ever happening that life is +prolonged beyond that period in this part of Africa. They retain their +vigour, and enjoy a permanent and regular state of health until the last; +and I have observed a venerable chief of advanced years having the +possession of a dozen of young handsome wives, and the father of a young +progeny, whose legitimacy was never disputed or suspected. In Europe the +last stage of man is a daily anticipation of dissolution; but in Africa, +declining years are only insensible approaches to the termination of a +journey, the event of which he considers as the end of life, unconscious of +the future, but as a fatality equally attached to all the creation. + +The picture I have endeavoured to delineate may serve to convey an idea to +the mind of the moral and physical state of Africa, which, undisturbed by +ferocious barbarism, fierce hostilities, and horrid customs, convey a +blissful and happy state of being; but, alas! we must now take another +view, and contemplate these beings in the most degrading state, absorbed in +superstitious idolatry, inhuman customs, and shut out from the civil arts +of life, and the mild principles of Christianity. Their customs, their +hostilities, slavery, and the mode I have conceived requisite to +infranchise this unhappy race of men, I shall attempt to represent in the +following chapter; and happy shall I feel if the description excites the +attention and interference of more capacious minds on this subject, +interesting to so large a portion of the human race, and to the claims of +humanity. + + + +CHAPTER VII. + + + + +_The Mode of Trial by_ Ordeal _and_ Red Water _in Africa.--The Wars of its +Inhabitants.--The State of Barbarism and Slavery considered.--The Condition +of the Africans will not be improved by a late Legislative Act, without +further Interference.--Salutary Measures must be adopted towards the +Negroes in the Colonies.--A System suggested to abolish Slavery in Africa, +and the Slave Trade in general, and to enlarge the intellectual Powers of +its Inhabitants.--The proper Positions to effect an Opening to the Interior +of Africa, and to display to the World its manifold Resources._ + + +Trial by _ordeal_ in Africa is a punishment for petty thefts and +delinquincies. Trial by _red water_ is generally applied to crimes of +greater magnitude. After the usual ceremonial of calling a palaver, the +operation is performed by heating a piece of iron in the fire, the hand of +the accused is dipped into a viscous preparation, and the iron is +immediately drawn horizontally over the palm of the hand. If the judges +(one of whom is always the executioner) have previously determined, in +defiance of all the evidence, to prove the culprit guilty, the consequence +is that the flesh is seared; but if they are predisposed to acquit him, the +iron is dexterously applied so as to absorb the unctuous surface on the +hand without affecting it, and a sentence of not guilty is pronounced. + +Trial by _red water_ consists in making the accused drink a quantity of +water, into which is infused the poisonous juice of the melley or +_gris-gris_ tree; this is prepared by these _equitable_ judges, and +applied upon the same fraudulent principles as in the trial by the _ordeal +of fire_; it is, however, less resorted to. If the unhappy object of +suspicion is affected in such a manner as they consider as a proof of +guilt, his brains are knocked out upon the spot, or the body is so inflated +by the pernicious liquid that it bursts. In either of these catastrophes +all his family are sold for slaves. Some survive these diabolical +expedients of injustice, but the issue is uniformly slavery. When chiefs of +influence, guilty of atrocity and fraud, become objects of accusation, the +ingredient is of course qualified so as to remove its fatal tendency. Hence +justice seldom or ever in this country can punish powerful offenders, or +shield the innocence of the weak and unprotected. + +The iniquity and oppression sanctioned by these trials, is a dreadful +consequence of their avarice and inhumanity, for it is a fact that slaves +are created thereby, and human sacrifices offered to that spirit, which +they consider as their tutelar guardian: it is a subject which humanity +should seriously contemplate in the relinquishment of the slave trade, +whether, by the hasty adoption of that measure, before the intellectual +powers of the people are improved by civilization, this barbarous evil may +not be increased. When I closely enquired of the chiefs and natives +relative to these savage customs, they uniformly admitted the fact, "that +such live in their country," but with their characteristic dissimulation, +always denied having perpetrated these horrid acts, and shifted the +diabolical practice to some other nation or tribe, adding, "that only bad +men do that thing." + +Circumcision is practised among men, and a certain infliction on women, +not, however, from religious motives, but to guard against the consequences +of a disease not uncommon among them. The infliction upon women is the +result of infidelity, or a sacrifice of chastity to loose gratification. As +a preliminary, they retire to the _bunda_, or penitentiary, and are there +secluded from all sexual intercourse. When the season of penitence is over, +the operation is performed by the rude application of two stones, fashioned +and sharpened for the purpose; this obliterates all delinquincy, and on +their return to the world they are considered as restored to virgin purity. + +Wars in Africa originate from a variety of causes; in forming a correct +estimate of these, it is necessary to consider its localities and +situation. The inhabitants of this quarter of the earth, more particularly +those of the district now under consideration, compose numerous tribes and +nations, whose various views and interests excite jealousies and +contentions, which, aided by the passions peculiar to a barbarous people, +inevitably produce hostilities, and the effusion of human blood. + +What we have hitherto known of this country undoubtedly proves that wars +are carried on with the most sanguinary violence: their prisoners, by the +customs of the country, are consigned to massacre, slavery, and +sacrifice,[1] to gratify the avarice, vanity, and cruelty of their chiefs; +one of these passions must be predominant, and therefore the question is, +which of them is the least pregnant with evil? It cannot admit of a doubt +that those who are victims to avarice meet a more mild and humane fate, in +falling into the hands of Europeans, than the unhappy portion who are +sacrificed to vanity and cruelty; and it is equally true, that since the +interior nations have been enabled to exchange their slaves for European +merchandize, the number of victims to the latter passion has decreased. I +am far from being the advocate of slavery, but I am stating a fact, and +leave it to the reader to form his own conclusions. Where confirmed habits +and immemorial custom is to be supplanted, it is certainly requisite to be +well acquainted with the nature and character of the natives, which I have +not here introduced in an exaggerated shape, but infinitely within the +bounds of their savage ferocity. + +From these sources alone have arisen the expedients attendant upon the +slave trade; kidnapping and petty warfare form a very unimportant branch of +the barbarism which governs the inhabitants of Africa, and their enslaved +condition. + +Viewing this in the mass of moral evil which disgraces the character of +man, it will be found that it is even disproportioned to the estimated +population of Africa, which, from the best authority, has been stated at +upwards of 160 millions; and to apply the consideration to our own +situation, it will be found, that the number of executions and +transportations from the United Kingdom, in proportion to its population, +is infinitely greater than the number of slaves exported from the shores of +Africa, to its numerous inhabitants. Unquestionably the slave trade has +extricated a number of human beings from death, whom the horrible +sacrifices before described consigned to a barbarous exit, and has been a +cause, though an immoral one when applied to Britons, of extricating many +victims, who otherwise would have been annually sacrificed: humanity has, +therefore, some consolation in this polluted branch of our commerce, which +in its nature is barbarous and inhuman. + +Theories become extremely dangerous when they are impracticable, or +misapplied, and are pernicious in their consequences from the fallacious +measures they establish. In Africa crimes are punished by forfeitures, +slavery, or death; they are however rare; but accusations are often used to +procure slaves, whether for domestic purposes, sale, or sacrifice to their +customs. Death, as a punishment, is seldom the penalty of condemnation; and +if the culprit is rich, he can purchase his security. The alleged crime of +witchcraft, or magic, is a common means by which the chiefs increase their +accusations; and, consequently, the number of slaves. Adultery, and other +violations of social order, are punished by fine, but absolution is to be +obtained by money. + +The crimes by which the chiefs obtain the condemnation and disposal of +their subjects, are nearly all imaginary; for few exist which, under their +laws, are considered as acts of turpitude. The abuse of authority, the +action of violent passions, barbarous customs, ferocious habits, and +insatiate avarice among the chiefs, augment the number of captives and +victims, and the operation of these is much greater in the interior than in +the maritime districts; but this leads me to the next part of my subject, +namely, that a late legislative act will not, without farther interference, +improve the condition of the African. + +By the hasty conclusion of that measure, the unhappy African is now +abandoned to his fate; and we have surrendered him into the hands of other +nations, less acquainted with his character and situation. Former acts of +parliament had adopted wise and humane measures to ameliorate the condition +of slaves on board British vessls, so that their wants, and even their +comforts, were administered with a liberal hand; and much more might have +been done to augment these comforts. Instead of now being the object of +matured and wise regulations, the captive is exposed to the rapacity of our +enemies, who will derive great advantages from our abandonment of the +trade, and those who are incompetent, from the want of local knowledge, to +ease his shackles, and sooth him in his state of bondage. The magnitude and +nature of the disease, required a comprehensive system of policy to +eradicate it; and although in its nature and tendency of great moral +turpitude, alteratives were required calculated to its inveterate character +and established habits. The condition of the African, the probable +advantages he was to derive by our abandonment, and the circumstances of +commerce, were all considerations of important consequence. + +Even virtue itself must modify to its standard many considerations of moral +evil, more particularly in a political point of view, that it may the more +effectually establish its principles; nor can it, amidst the corruptions of +society, exercise at all times its functions with due effect; neither has +an instance occurred where its prudence and discretion was more imperiously +called upon, than in that now under consideration. It had immemorial custom +in Africa to contend with, inveterate barbarism, and savage ferocity. This +system had interwoven itself with our commercial existence so closely, as +to require the most sagacious policy to eradicate it; at the same time it +was the highest consideration for our magnanimity to interfere for that +being whose thraldom and calamitous state had so long contributed to our +wealth and commercial prosperity, before we abandoned him to contingencies. + +Enough may have been said in the foregoing pages, to prove that something +yet remains to be done to effect the manumission of the African, and +preserve the important branches of commerce, which necessity has allied +with the slave trade; and I entreat my readers to give this subject that +dispassionate consideration which its merits require, and beg to assure +them, that I obtrude my suggestions upon their notice with great submission +and diffidence, trusting that what may appear in my system deficient, +others more competent will embrace the subject, and excite the beneficence +of my country in behalf of the African, promote civilization and Christian +society in his country, display its arcana of wealth to the world, and open +a path to its commerce, free and unobscured. + +The colonization of the coast of Africa, in my estimation, is +impracticable, from its climate being uncongenial to the constitution of +Europeans, and from the system of slavery existing among its inhabitants, +without the employment of natives in their present condition. The requisite +authority to establish a system of labour, upon remunerative principles, +and with industrious vigour, cannot otherwise be supported; and a +misapprehension on this principle has been one of the great causes, as I +conceive, of the failure of the Sierra Leone Company in establishing their +agricultural objects. They attempted, in prosecution of their humane +project, an agricultural establishment on the Boolam shore, opposite to +their colony, where they had a choice of good lands: they proceeded upon +the principles of their declaration, "that the military, personal, and +commercial rights of blacks and whites shall be the same, and secured in +the same manner," and in conformity with the act of parliament which +incorporated them, more immediately that clause which relates to labour, +namely, "not to employ any person or persons in a state of slavery in the +service of the said Company;" but they have totally failed; and in one of +their reports, among other reasons, it is acknowledged, that for want of +authority over the free natives whom they employed, their agricultural +establishment on the Boolam shore was unsuccessful. Let not those worthy +and truly respectable characters, whose humanity has induced them to risque +an extensive property _unhappily expended without effect_, here consider +that I mean to militate against their views, but rather may they acquiesce +in the truth, and devise other expedients to promote their beneficent +objects, and to _assimilate the natives_ of the country with their views. +They have not only to lament a nonproductive profusion of their property, +but an _alienation of the natives_, occasioned by a misconception of their +character, by distracted councils, and the narrowed ideas of the agents +they employed to prosecute their humane endeavours, but also by a desolate +waste in their colony, without a regular feature of cultivation in its +vicinity. + +At Bance Island, where slavery and agriculture were united under one +superintendance in conformity with the established laws of the country, the +mechanic arts among the natives have arrived at a greater degree of +perfection than any situation I have visited upon the Windward Coast; and +had the intellectual powers of their minds been more amply considered and +cultivated, they would have exhibited an uncontrovertible example of the +capacity and intelligence of the African. Although, as I have previously +noticed, a superintendance directed only to the mechanical arts, applied to +the local necessities of the Island, has had the most visible effects, yet, +in proportion as their privileges have been extended, authority has become +more inefficient, and their labour less unproductive in a pecuniary point +of view, for want of a previous enlargement of their intellectual powers, +and a progressive operation of freedom commensurate thereto. + +I can bestow no panegyric adequate to the sense I entertain of that active +goodness which prompted the Directors of the Sierra Leone Company to the +undertaking I have alluded to; but with all due deference I conceive that +they have mistaken the practicable grounds, upon which the seeds of +civilization, and the principles of Christianity, can be effectively +displayed to the African. The Directors had to contend with a peculiar +co-mixture of passions, licentious habits, and hereditary vice; to +eradicate these, and to rescue the natives from their natural state, +alluring and progressive measures were necessary, founded upon an accurate +investigation of their characters and policy, and not by the fulminations +of intemperate zealots, and theoretical speculators. The beneficent views +of the Sierra Leone Company have been unaccountably perverted, and have +been the distorted instruments in prolonging, rather than extirpating, the +barbarism of the African: it is therefore a subject of great regret to the +benevolent supporters of this establishment, that an unprofitable +expenditure of their property is the only existing perpetuity of their +humane interference. Will it be found that the Company's agents have +introduced the arts of civilization among any tribe or nation in Africa, +that they have made any progress in agriculture, although possessing a very +extensive tract of fertile lands, or that they have converted them into any +of the regular features of cultivation? Have they explored or brought into +action any of the attainable and lucrative branches of natural commerce, +abounding in the region they inhabit, or do they employ a single ship in a +regular trade with the mother country? Will it be found that they have +unfolded the doctrines of Christianity, in their native purity and +simplicity, to the unenlightened African, or converted, by their preaching +and example, any tribe or nation among them?--The spacious waste is +destitute of the appearance of domestic industry, or respectable character; +it exhibits only a tissue of indolence, hypocritical grimace, petulant and +assuming manners, and all the consequences of idleness and corrupted +morals. To succeed in this beneficent undertaking, and to expunge the +inveterate nature of the African, his prejudices, and inherent customs, +progressive approaches upon his present condition are indispensibly +requisite, under the attractive influence of agriculture, manufactures, +commerce, and navigation. + +Accidental events, concurring with political causes, frequently render the +best concerted measures abortive, and retard their progress, but +unquestionably the above-mentioned are the means by which the African may +be manumitted, and his condition improved. The wisest laws operate but +slowly upon a rude and fierce people, therefore the measures of reformation +are not to be successfully performed by a coup-de-main, nor are the +hereditary customs of Africa to be erased by the inflammatory declamations +of enthusiasm, but by a liberal policy and the ascendency of the polished +arts of society. Commerce, the chief means of assembling, and agriculture +of assimilating, mankind, must first assume their fascinating and alluring +attitudes to the African upon his native plains. Too impetuous and indolent +to observe the forms, or enter into the requisite details of business, he +contemplates the effect, without investigating the cause; but, when he +discovers his own comparative wretchedness, he will be roused from his +innate indolence, his powers will be stimulated, and his emulation excited +to attain a more exalted state. + +Imperceptible and circumspect approach at innovation upon the laws, +customs, and country of Africa are indispensibly requisite, its chiefs and +head men must be cajoled, their jealousies dextrously allayed, and their +sordid avarice flattered by the prospect of superior gain. + +During the infancy of colonization, the employment of native labour must be +tolerated, as is evident by the unsuccessful attempts of the Sierra Leone +Company, and may appear from what I have already urged. Independent of +political considerations, of much weight, the uncongeniality of the climate +of Africa to the constitution of the European colonist opposes an +insurmountable barrier to the exercise of laborious avocations; therefore +it is necessary to employ natives, in conformity with the usage of the +country; and a recognition of property should exist in their persons; for +it is obvious, from experiment, that authority cannot otherwise be +established, or the necessary labour performed to produce an adequate +return. While this invidious exigency obstructs the immediate manumission +of the slave, it does not the less accelerate it, agreeable to the sound +and humane policy adapted to his condition; but, on the contrary, is +necessary to his complete emancipation; for he must first be taught the +nature of the blessings of freedom, his intellectual faculties must be +expanded, and the veil of barbarism gradually removed, to prepare him to +participate in its enjoyment. + +The system of colonization which I, with all submission, submit to the +legislature, and to my country, is this: + +1st. To employ natives in whom a recognition of property shall exist, as +unavoidable from the present condition of Africa. + +2d. To procure them from as wide an extent of the most powerful nations and +tribes upon the sea coast, as is practicable, and from the Slatees or slave +merchants from the interior countries. + +3d. That a requisite number of these should be fit for the present purposes +of labour, and for an immediate initiation into the mechanic arts, as +applicable to the local circumstances of the colony, and the useful +purposes of life. + +4th. That a proportionate number of males and females should form the +complement, from the age of 5 to 7 years, and be placed in a seminary of +instruction, under the inspection of the government of the colony, and +under tutors approved of in England. + +5th. That this establishment of a seminary of instruction in Africa, under +the administration of the colony, shall have for its bases the initiation +of these children, as calculated to their sexes, into the rudiments of +letters, religion, and science, and the progressive operation of education +adapted to the useful purposes of life. + +6th. That when thus prepared, the necessary avocations of domestic economy, +agriculture, and mechanics, employ the next period of their existence, +under the superintendence of the European colonist. + +7th. When arrived at the period of mature years, and thus instructed, to +become the object of legislative enquiry and investigation as to their +attainments, character, fidelity, and mental improvement. + +8th. That such as produce clear testimonials of capacity, knowledge, and +acquirement, become immediately objects of manumission. + +9th. That all proceedings in this process of education and emancipation, +become matters of record in the colony, subject to such control and +investigation as his Majesty's Government may, in its wisdom, appoint, from +time to time, to guard against the corruption and prejudices of the +legislative authority of the colony. + +10th. That thus endowed, they are to be dismissed to their respective +countries and nations, employed as agents in various capacities of +civilized pursuit, and to promote the commercial and agricultural views of +the colony, and disseminate their allurements among their tribe, which, +under the direction of the unerring dispensations of divine providence, +might, in process of time, diffuse civilization and Christianity throughout +the utmost region of Africa, its inhabitants become members of civilized +and Christian society, and their country, in process of time, be extricated +from its barbarism. + +It is for the legislature to devise a system adapted to the colonies, +calculated to their local situations, and to remove the invidious +distinction now subsisting between the African there, and in his native +country; by these means the entire Negro race may participate in the +blessings of civilization and revealed religion, in every quarter where our +extensive dominion and influence exist. + +By adopting the _first proposition_, a sufficient authority would be +maintained to enforce the labour necessary to produce profit, and competent +to excite emulation, which is a powerful passion in the character of the +African; for in every effort he discovers a strong spirit of competition. + +Through the medium of the 2d proposition, the natives of an extentive +district would be collected under the instruction of the European colonist, +and, in process of time, would become the happy instruments of initiating +their, tribe or nation into the arts of civilization, and in promoting the +commercial interests of the colony, which may eventually be diffused +throughout Africa. + +By the 3d expedient, an adequate portion of effective labourers would be +obtained to commence vigorous operations. + +In consequence of the 4th, 5th, and 6th, a portion of children of both +sexes would be procured at a moderate rate, in their unadulterated +condition, who would be susceptible of any impressions, free from the +control of their parents, and the contamination of their example, into +whose tender minds might be instilled the principles of moral virtue, +religious knowledge, and the civil arts of life. + +Through the adoption of the 7th and 8th, the objects of humanity might be +realized, and slavery, with the slave trade, make a natural exit from the +shores and country of Africa. + +By the 9th, the corrupted and interested endeavours of the colonists to +retard the work of emancipation would be controlled; and, by the patronage +of Government, pecuniary resource and support be obtained, in aid of +individual and corporate endeavours, the requisite population from the +parent state acquired, and the indispensible authority established to +secure success to any further attempts at colonization upon the coast of +Africa. + +And through the 10th expedient, an extended population would enjoy the +advantages of instruction and example, and our ascendency and commerce be +increased by a rapid process, which would predispose the natives to throw +open the avenues of their country to our enterprize and research. + +Thus may the long seclusion of the African from the light of truth and +revealed religion be annihilated, his inveterate jealousies allayed, his +nature regenerated, and his barbarism fall before the emanations of +enlightened existence. In the interim, an unobscured path to the interior +of his country will be opened, and our commerce therewith flow through a +less polluted channel; while the Negro, now the victim of barbarism in his +native land, may be extricated from his thraldom, and received into the +circle of civilized life, which he has hitherto been excluded from, and to +which providence, without doubt, in its mysterious and incomprehensible +administration of human affairs, has designed him to arrive at. + +[Footnote 1: A portion of them being destined to domestic slavery, as +victims to revenge, and as sacrifices to their barbarous customs.] + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + + + + +_What the Author conceives should be the System of Establishment to make +effectual the Operations from Cape Verde to Cape Palmas.--Reasons for +subjecting the Whole to one Superior and controlling Administration.--The +Situations, in his Estimation, where principal Depots may be established, +and auxiliary Factories placed, &c. &c._ + +What I have already said respecting the coast from Cape Verde to Cape +Palmas, may be sufficient to convey a tolerably just and general idea of +the religion, customs, and character of the inhabitants, the commercial +resources with which it abounds, and the system to be pursued to unite +commerce with the claims of humanity in one harmonious compact. + +I am persuaded there is no situation on the Windward Coast of Africa more +calculated, or more advantageously situated, than the river of Sierra Leone +to influence and command an enlarged portion of the continent of Africa. + +This part of Africa, as ascertained by Mr. Park, communicates, by its +rivers to the Niger, and introduces us to the interior of this great +continent; and, from other sources of information, Foolahs, Mandingos, &c. +I am enabled to confirm the statement given in one of the reports of the +Sierra Leone Company, that from _Teembo_, about 270 miles interior to the +entrance of the Rio Noonez, and the capital of the Foolah king, a path of +communication exists through the kingdoms of Bellia, Bourea, Munda, Segoo +(where there are too strong grounds to believe that the enterprising spirit +of Mr. Park ceased its researches in this world), Soofundoo to Genah, and +from thence to Tombuctoo, described as extremely rich and populous. The +distance from Teembo to Tombuctoo the natives estimate at about four moons' +journey, which at 20 miles per day, calculating 30 days to each moon, is +equal to 2,400 miles. This distance in a country like Africa, obscured by +every impediment which forests, desarts, and intense climate can oppose to +the traveller, is immense; and when it is considered that in addition to +these, he has to contend with the barbarism of the inhabitants, it is a +subject for serious deliberation, before the investigation of its natural +history and commercial resources is undertaken. But it also displays an +animating field of enterprise to obtain a free intercourse with this +unbounded space, and if, at a future day, we should traverse it with +freedom and safety, the whole of Africa might thereby be enlightened, and +its mysteries developed to the civilized world. + +I have therefore conceived the expediency of submitting all the enterprises +and operations of the United Kingdom to the influence of a supreme +direction and government in the river of Sierra Leone. No doubt many +contradictory opinions may prevail upon this subject, and upon the outline +I have previously submitted on the most eligible plan of introducing +civilization into Africa; but the detail of all my motives and reasons +would occupy too large a space; I shall therefore proceed to instance some +local circumstances and political reasons why I make the proposition. + +From what I have said respecting the path which Smart, of the Rochell +branch of the river Sierra Leone, has now under his authority, and can open +and shut at pleasure, communicating with the extensive country of the +Foolahs, whose king (as the Sierra Leone agents are well aware of, but who +was strangely and unaccountably neglected by them) is well disposed to aid, +by prudent application, all advances towards the civilization of his +country, it is evident that an immense commerce, extending northward to +Cape Verde, and southward to Cape Palmas, on the coasts, and from the +interior countries, might be maintained. + +By light vessels and schooners, drawing from 6 to 8 feet water, a continued +activity might be kept up in the maritime situations and rivers, and a +correspondence by land might be conducted by post natives, who travel from +20 to 30 miles per day, to all parts of the interior countries. + +From the Island of Goree a correspondence with the river Gambia, and a +watchful vigilance over the settlement of the French in the Senegal would +be maintained both by land and sea, which, with a well chosen position, +central from Cape Sierra Leone, to Cape Palmas, would combine a regular +system of operation, concentrating in the river Sierra Leone. In addition +to these three principal depots, it would be requisite to establish +factories, and places of defence to the northward, on the rivers Scarcies +and Kissey, at the Isles de Loss, the rivers Dembia, Rio Pongo, Rio Grande, +Rio Noonez, and Gambia; and to leeward, on the rivers Sherbro, Galhinas, +Cape Mount, Junk river, John's river, Bassau, &c. or in other commanding +positions towards Cape Palmas. The expense of these auxiliary +establishments and forts would be inconsiderable, compared with the objects +they would attain, the chief requisite being regular and well supplied +assortments of goods, and a wise system of organization adapted to +circumstances. + +The navigation of these rivers, and habits of conciliation and friendship +with the chiefs resident upon them, and towards the interior, it may here +be perceived, are the only practicable measures, under the auspicious +control of Government, to retain our commerce with Africa, to civilize its +inhabitants, and explore its hidden wealth; and are the most favourable, +also, towards our operations in the countries on this continent; while the +various natives attached to this pursuit, would aid, by wise management, in +influencing the inhabitants, where our researches and pursuits might carry +us, and eventually conduct us to the centre of Africa, from thence to the +eastern shores of the Mediterranean, and the banks of the Nile. I trust it +will here also appear that the means of acting, and the important +advantages to be derived therefrom, are neither illusive nor impracticable. + +It is to be lamented, that, in undertakings of this kind, men of limited +genius, of no experience in business, and incapable of acting with +unanimity, have been too frequently employed; who are governed more by +caprice than principle, and are consequently seldom able to reduce their +ideas into practice, and allow their passions to predominate over the +maxims of duty. Delicacy in managing the humours and interests of men is +the art requisite to successful operation. + +May it be remembered, that if civilization and our ascendency prevail in +Africa, and if the first essays we make to extend our relations with that +country are successful, we attach to the civilized world one-fourth of the +habitable globe, and its infinite resources. It therefore becomes a subject +of great magnitude, to commence and form a system of operation, to collect +the means of this immense extent, and the propriety of subjecting the whole +to a similarity of views, and co-operation under one controlling +administration. + +The precipitate abolition of the slave trade will reduce our affairs in +Africa, to a contracted and unproductive compass, in its present condition; +therefore if we attach any consequence to this quarter of the globe, it +will be expedient to endeavour to discover new scources [**Note: sources] +of commercial wealth and industry. + +Coffee, cotton, the sugar cane, cacao, indigo, rice, tobacco, aromatic +plants and trees, &c. first offer themselves to, our attention in wild +exuberance. And these, in my humble opinion, are the only rational means to +bring Africa into a state of civilization, and to abolish slavery. + +I recommend one administration under the patronage of Government, in the +Sierra Leone river, to guard against a want of unity in the number of petty +establishments that may otherwise exist on the coast, which from jealousies +and interests varying in different directions, produce operations of a +contradictory nature, and the first necessary step, is to be well +acquainted with the character and dispositions, of the natives, and the +localities of the maritime situations; for without combined enterprises, I +venture to predict we are now excluded from the commerce of Africa. + +I trust that my system will be examined in all its points, with +dispassionate impartiality before it is rejected; and if others more +competent to the task, devise more eligible means to promote the views of +humanity and commerce, I shall feel happy to have agitated the subject, and +rejoice at every means, to rescue so important a matter to the interests of +mankind. + +The commandant of Goree, I would propose as second in command, with +delegated powers to control all the operations in the countries bordering +on the Senegal, and the river Gambia; and an annual inspection directed by +him, throughout this district. The intermediate countries from the Rio +Noonez to Cape Mount would come immediately under the examination of the +central and administrative government of Sierra Leone, and the third +division under the authority of another command at a position chosen +between Cape Mount, and Cape Palmas. + +The military protection of the establishments, as I have here recommended, +would neither require great exertions, or numbers. Goree certainly claims +peculiar attention. Its fortifications should be repaired, and the guns +rendered more complete, and tanks for water should be in a perfect state to +guard against the want of this necessary article from the main land, which, +as before noticed, is liable to be cut off at any period by the enemy. The +convenience, airy and healthy construction of the barracks and hospitals, +claim the most minute attention and care. Under skilful superintendance in +these important departments, the health of the troops might be preserved, +and objects of defence realized with a very inconsiderable military +establishment. But as government must be well informed by its officers, +both military and naval in these points, it would be indecorous in me to +enlarge on the subject. Lieut. Colonel Lloyd, from his long residence, and +intimacy with a great portion of the Windward Coast, possesses ample +information. And the naval officers, who from time to time have visited it, +have, no doubt, furnished every document necessary to complete an effective +naval protection. A regular system of defence, adapted to the jurisdiction +of the Sierra Leone, and delegated establishment between Cape Mount and +Cape Palmas, are also obviously requisite. The establishments that would be +eligible for the purposes of defence, are confined to the three foregoing +principal positions, and they have little to perform that is either +difficult or embarrassing. It may not, however, be considered as going +beyond the bounds of propriety to hint, that a great portion of the +soldiers charged with defence, should be able engineers and gunners, and a +few cavalry might be occasionally found useful. To complete the entire +plan, and exclude our enemies from every point, from Cape Blanco to Cape +Palmas, the possession of the French establishment at the Isle of Louis in +the Senegal, is an abject of serious contemplation, and no doubt might be +attained with great facility by even a small force. The unhealthy +consequences to a military force attached to this place might be greatly +removed by superior convenience in the hospitals, barracks, and other +departments of residence; and in a commercial point of view, its advantages +are too well ascertained for me to obtrude any observations. + +The bricks necessary for building may be procured in the country, lime from +oyster shells, &c. wood and other materials at a very inconsiderable +expense; and as the usual mode of payment, is in bars of goods, instead of +money, the nominal amount would thereby be greatly lessened. + + + +CHAPTER IX. + + + + +_The Author embarks in the Ship Minerva.--Proceeds to the Rio +Pongo.--Disquisitions thereon.--Further Observations on the Inhabitants, +obtained from Natives of various Nations met with there.--The Isles de +Loss--Returns to Sierra Leone, &c._ + + +Upon the 4th of June, 1806, I embarked at Bance Island, on board the ship +Minerva of Liverpool, bound upon a trading voyage to the Rio Pongo, and +other rivers to the northward, and on Thursday the 12th came to an anchor +at the upper forks, in the Rio Pongo, being the point at which the branches +of the _Bungra, Charleston, Constintia,_ &c. empty themselves; higher up +the river are the _Sanga_ and _Bashia_ branches, occupied by a chain of +factories, and inhabited by various nations and tribes. The principal +factories for trade are on the Constintia, about 40 miles up the river, Mr. +Cummings's factory, at Ventura; Mr. John Irvin's, at Kessey; Mr. Benjamin +Curtis's, at Boston; Mr. Frasier's, at Bangra; Mr. Sammo's, at Charleston; +Mr. David Lawrence's, at Gambia; Mr. Daniel Botefeur's, at Mary Hill; Mr. +Ormond's, Mr. Tillinghurst's, Mr. Gray's, in the Bashia branch; with +various others of inferior consideration. + +During my stay on this river, I visited the whole of these branches, and in +addition to personal investigation, I obtained much information from the +various conductors of these factories, and had a variety of opportunities +of communicating with many of the natives from the interior countries, who +are drawn hither by the extensive commerce of the Rio Pongo. In my +excursions on this river, I was generally accompanied by Captain William +Browne, of Liverpool, who was part owner of the Minerva, and had the sole +management of the concerns of her voyage; and I am happy to give him this +public testimony of the many obligations he conferred upon me, while on +this part of the coast, which unceasingly continued until my arrival in +England, by the way of the West Indies. + +The countries bounded by the Rio Pongo and the Gambia, are inhabited by the +Nilloes and various tribes, who carry on a considerable trade with that +river, the Rio Noonez, and Rio Grande, and inland to the two latter, is the +powerful nation of the Foolahs, possessing an extensive country, about 200 +miles in breadth from north to south, and 400 miles from east to west. +Teembo, the capital of the Foolah king, is about 270 miles inland from the +entrance of the Rio Noonez. The paths for trade and communication with the +interior, from this position, are at the king's pleasure, and he opens and +shuts them by his mandate. The Foolahs are tall, well-limbed, robust and +courageous, grave in their deportment, are well acquainted with commerce, +and travel over an astonishing space of the country. Their religion is a +mixture of Mahomedanism, idolatry, and fetishism. One of their tenets, +which inculcates the destruction of those they term infidels, is peculiarly +friendly to slavery, and as the greater part of their neighbouring tribes +are of that description, they are continually practising every violence, +and, are frequently engaged in wars. When I suggested to a chief of very +considerable intelligence, and one of the Foolah king's head men, whom I +met in the Rio Pongo, the enormity of their injustice to the surrounding +tribes, and how displeasing it was to the God they prayed to, his reply +was, "True, this be bad fashion to Foolah, or Mandingo man, but these +people we make war against never pray to God, nor do we make war with those +who give God Almighty service." While this barbarism exists, and the slave +trade is continued, humanity will have to, bewail the miserable condition +of the African slave. For this, and various other reasons that might be +urged, and considering the position and extensive influence of the Foolah +nation, their king claims a high consideration in a combined scheme of +establishment upon the coast. + +So impressed was this chief, of the beneficial advantages to be derived +from agriculture, that he tendered land, cattle, men, &c. to the agents of +the Sierra Leone Company, only requesting from them, in return, a delegated +superintendance; but, strange to tell, this disposition was not cultivated +nor improved; nor was the further offer of the king of Laby, and his high +priest, to place their sons under the protection of the Company, to be sent +to England and educated. A more important step could not have been taken to +attain the object of the Directors, than this of attaching the Foolah +nation to their interest. + +The women of this nation are handsome, and of a sprightly temper, and their +countenances are more regular than those of the common Negroes; the hair in +both men and women is much longer, and not so woolly, but they have a most +disgusting custom of forming it into ringlets, bedaubed with oil and +grease, which gives them a very barbarous appearance. The Foolah tongue, is +different from that of the surrounding nations, and its accent is more +harmonious. + +To the southward of the Rio Pongo, to Sierra Leone, lie the countries of +the Bagoes, Soosees, Mandingos, Timminees, and Boolams, all idolaters +except the Mandingos, who, like the Foolahs, associate in their religion a +mixture of fetishism and Mahomedanism. The Timminees are a more harmless +race of men than any of the other _infidel_ nations, and their dispositions +are more calculated to industrious avocations than their neighbours. + +I have already noticed the Mandingos, but, as I consider this nation and +the Foolahs of the first consequence, from their power and influence over +the other nations of this part of the coast, I shall add a few more +observations upon them. + +From what I have before stated, it will appear that the Mandingos are a +numerous people in Africa, gaining a daily influence and authority in the +district now under consideration. Besides the tribes of this people who +inhabit the countries between the Soosees and Timminees, there are various +others established in the country of Bambouk, and on the borders of the +Gambia, but the great body occupy an extensive territory above the sources +of that river. + +The empire of the Mandingos is not, however, so considerable as that of the +Foolahs, but from their increasing influence over the western countries, +from their docile and cunning dispositions, their knowledge in merchandize, +and acquirements in book-knowledge, their power must, in process of time, +be greatly increased; and it will be of the utmost moment to civilize them, +in order to acquire an influence over the more barbarous states. + +Notwithstanding the cunning and dissimulation which characterizes these +people, they are generous, open, and hospitable, and their women are +aimiable and engaging: they are more zealous Mahomedans than the Foolahs; +their colour has a mixture of yellow, but their features are more regular +than the other nations of Africa which I have seen. The Foolahs, the +Mandingos, and the Joliffs, bordering on the Senegal, are the most handsome +Negroes on this part of Africa; the hair of the latter, however, is more +crisped and woolly, their nose is round, and their lips are thick; this +nation, in particular, is blacker than those approximating towards the +line; nor are the Negroes in the Krew coast, and towards Palmas, so black +as the nation I now speak of; which may tend to prove, that the colour of +the Africans does not arise from a vertical sun, but from other physical +causes yet unknown. + +There is a characteristic feature between the Mahomedan nations of Africa, +particularly those from the shores of the Mediterranean (whom I have seen +in my travels in that quarter) which, with their almost universal +profession of the Mahomedan religion, sanctions the idea, that this part of +the coast has been peopled from the eastern parts of the continent; but the +visible difference in religion, complexion, and feature, of the nations +towards Cape Palmas, give rise to other conjectures. An obvious difference +may be observed among these numerous nations; their language and their +customs are various, and are frequently without affinity or relation. From +the shores of the Mediterranean to this part of Africa, the majority of the +nations are Mahomedans, but towards Cape Palmas they are gross idolaters, +with a mixture Mahomedanism and superstition; many of them erect temples, +and dedicate groves to the devil. I have seen several of these, which +exhibit no outward sign or object of worship, but consist of stumps of +trees, in a circular form, covered with leaves, or a thatched roof, in the +centre of which stands a square altar of mud, without any image of +adoration. The reason assigned by them for their omission in this +instance, is, "that they never look the Devil or evil spirit, therefore +they do not know how to make any thing like him." To the good spirit they +neither make offering nor sacrifice, considering it as unnecessary to +obtain his favours, from his disposition to do nothing but good, which of +course he will administer to them. + +From every thing that I have observed, I conceive that idolatry, and fetish +worship, is the predominant religion of Africa, and that Mahomedanism has +been propagated by the Moore and Arab's. It may not here be unopportune to +introduce the Mandingo man's prayer, which I obtained from a very +intelligent chief of that nation: viz. + + +_Mandingo Arabic_. + +Subbohanalahe Rabila'ademy +abodehé. Subbohanala rabila +Allah. Subbohana arabe. Inye +allamante, nafuse wa amutate +sue wakefurella. Teyatelillahé +tebates allivatuelub lahey. +Sillamaleko ayo hanabehé, obara +katolahe Sullamalina Ihannabé, +lebadelahe Saliheneé" + +The address to Mahomet follows, +viz. + +Sahadala elahe idillaha +Mahomedo, arasoolo lahi +man Mahomedo aboodaho. + +_In their idiom of English._ + +God lives and, is not dust. +God be master of all and is +above his slaves. God knows +his slave, and is not made of +earth; but above all. (Before +the next sentence, Subbohana +arabe, &c. he bows twice.) + +Suppose I die, I can look you +to-morrow, and thank you, and +be out of trouble, and free from +the Devil. + +(Teyatelillahé, &c. accompanied +by a motion of the fingers) + +I beg in my prayers again, +God, I may die to day, I look to +thank you again to-morrow, +my people and family may +then get into trouble, and I +then pray to you. + +To Mahomet. + +Mahomet be man, born of +woman, the prophet of God, +and speak to him for man. + + +In this system of prayer there is a mixture of fetishism, Mahomedanism, and +a strong analogy to the Christian system; and it is no inconsiderable +argument in favour of the mediation of the Saviour, that in the worship of +heathen nations a mediator is uniformly associated with the object of +adoration. Virgil in his Aeneid, and other classic writers, illustrate a +belief of the ancient heathens in the omniscience of the deity, and they +clearly elucidate the importance they attached the mediatorial efficacy of +offerings and sacrifice. + +The form of worship adapted to the foregoing prayer, is to squat down upon +the ground, placing the palm of their hands flat thereon twice, touching +the earth the same number of times with their foreheads; then rubbing their +arms from the wrist to the elbow, with that which is contracted by this +operation, when the hands are applied to the face, and the forefingers put +into the ears. + +I have dwelt more minutely upon this people and their present condition +compared with the Foolahs, because I consider these nations have it much in +their power to shut and open the paths of intercourse with the interior +countries, therefore they become of importance, in the contemplation of any +pursuits upon this district of Africa. + +The Mandingoes inhabiting Galam, and the countries interior to the Gambia, +carry on the principal trade with those of Bambouk, &c. where gold is +procured. This precious metal is obtained from the surface of the earth, +and from the banks of the falls of the rivers in the rainy season; it is +first washed in a calabash; and when the water is poured off, the dust, and +sometimes large grains remain. The natives have no idea of mining; but it +appears from hence, that mines of this metal must exist, which are +concealed thro' the want of the arts of civilized life. The Mandingoes +speak of these countries with a great air of mystery, and are extremely +jealous, lest Europeans should obtain any information relative to them: as +they carry on almost exclusively, this branch of commerce. + +When I was in the Bashia branch of the Rio Pongo, a meteor of an +extraordinary kind appeared for two successive nights, directing its course +from NE. to SW. which put the natives in a most dreadful state of +consternation; the women fell into loud lamentations, the men beat their +drums, and sent forth the most horrid yells; imagining, that this barbarous +uproar would drive away the object of their fears. In eclipses of the sun +and moon, they repeat their prayers and sacrifices, with the same clamour, +under the notion that it will frighten away the monster which they suppose +to obscure these planets from their view. These superstitious notions have +the most powerful influence over the Negro's mind, and it is impossible to +dissuade or reason him out of them. + +From all I have stated, the great importance of these countries, to open an +intercourse with the interior of Africa, must appear. On the borders of the +Rio Pongo, and other rivers, excellent lands, forming hill, and dale, are +every where to be found, and well adapted to agricultural experiments. With +the _consent of the chiefs_, these might be obtained at a small expense, +and many of them with whom I have communicated, would gladly embrace a wise +interference; but they all complain, "white man not know their fashion," +intimating in very forcible language, that every caution should be used, at +innovation upon their laws, customs, and manners. Let example first excite +their admiration, and their barbarism will bow before the arts of +civilization, and slavery be gradually abolished. + +Before I conclude this chapter, I shall make some observations upon the +temperature of the western countries of Africa, situated between Cape Verde +and Cape Palmas, mention the principal diseases, and those which Europeans +are most exposed to on their first arrival in these countries, and give +general precautions against the dangers of the climate, &c. + +The inexhaustible fecundity of Africa holds out to Europeans strong +excitements to enterprise and research; but in the pursuit, the diseases +which prevail in this country should be well understood; and it would be +highly expedient, in any plans of colonization, to attach a medical staff, +as the natives have no idea of the art of surgery, except what arises from +the knowledge they have of the properties of herbs, and the superstitions +attached to their fetishism. In annexing this extraordinary country to the +civilized world, and exploring its stores of wealth, a burning climate, and +the diseases peculiar thereto, unite with the barbarism of its inhabitants +in opposition to the European; but by a strict observance of necessary +rules, and avoiding all kinds of excess, the formidable influence of the +sun may be resisted, and the pernicious effects of exhalations, which arise +from a humid, marshy, and woody country, may in a great degree be obviated; +and I am sorry to say, that for want of proper precaution and through +ignorance, fatal consequences more frequently occur, than from the +unhealthiness of the climate. + +The temperature from Cape Verde to Cape Palmas is extremely various from +the vertical rays of the sun, the nature of the soil, and the face of the +country. + +In the months from November to March, by Fahrenheit's thermometer, it has +been from 70° in the morning, to 90° at noon, in the shade; and nearly the +same variation has been observed at the river of Sierra Leone; and in some +places in the Foolah country it has been from 50° to 90° + +From July to October, the mean temperature in the river Gambia, by +Fahrenheit, has been from 90° in the morning to 100° at noon in the shade, +and during the same months at Sierra Leone from about 92° to 106°; but a +variety of local circumstances may give a greater or less degree of heat: +this however may serve to give a general idea of the temperature of these +countries. The island of Goree, for example, the island of Bance, and the +bay of Sierra Leone, are more healthy, enjoying the cooling sea breezes, +more than situations in the rivers more interior. The banks of all the +rivers in Africa, which I have visited, are enclosed by impenetrable +forests, marshes, and the closely combined mangrove tree, and it is but +seldom that the land forms an uneven dry surface on their borders. +Instances however in the Sierra Leone, Rio Pongo, &c. occasionally occur, +when the most picturesque scenery adorns the river. + +From May to August, hurricanes or _tornados_, before described, prevail +upon the Windward Coast, and this phenomenon is to be met with from Cape +Verde to Cape Palmas. The months from November to March are remarkable for +the prevalence of east and north-east winds. When these winds, which are +called _harmatans_, set in, they are accompanied with a heavy atmosphere, +and are of a dry and destructive nature. Every description of vegetation is +blasted by their influence, and every object, animate and inanimate, feels +their powerful effects; the skin is parched and dried, and every feature is +shriveled and contracted. The most compact cabinet work will give way, the +seams of flooring open, and the planks even bend. Furniture of every sort +is distorted; in short, nothing escapes their dreadful power. The nights at +this period are cool and refreshing. + +The months of July, August, September, and October are rainy, from the +equator to about the 20th degree of north latitude. Towards the equinoxial +they begin earlier, and make their progress to windward, but the difference +throughout the whole of the north tropic fluctuates little more or less +than 15 or 20 days. When the rains commence, the earth, before parched up +and consolidated into an impenetrable crust, by the powerful influence of +the sun and a long period of drought, is immediately covered with vermin +and reptiles of all sorts, creating a moving map of putrefaction. The +natives ascribe to these many of their diseases; but a further cause may be +added, namely, the great change from heat to cold, and the variations at +this season. + +The powerful influence of the sun, which at this period is almost vertical, +quickly dissipates the clouds which obscure the sky, and produces an almost +insupportable effect; but new clouds soon condense, and intercept the solar +rays; a mitigating heat follows; the pores are compressed, and prespiration +ceases. Variations succeeding so rapidly, are attended with the most +serious effects, and the most fatal consequences. And, lastly, the noxious +exhalations arising from the inaccessible forests and marshy swamps which +abound in Africa, and from numerous animal and vegetable remains of the dry +season, which cover the soil every where, are productive of putrid +effluvia. These rains, or rather periodical torrents of water, which +annually visit the tropics, invariably continue for about four months of +the year, and during the other eight it rarely happens that one single drop +falls; in some instances, however, periodical showers have happened in the +dry season, but the effects of these are scarcely perceptible on +vegetation; the consequence is, that the surface of the earth forms an +impervious stratum or crust, which shuts up all exhalation. + +When the rains cease, and the heat of the sun absorbs the evaporations from +the earth, which have been so long concealed during the dry season, a most +offensive and disgusting effluvia is produced, which then fastens upon the +human system, and begets diseases that in a short time shew their effects +with dreadful violence; and no period is more to be guarded against than +when the rains cease, for the intense heat completely impregnates the +atmosphere with animalculae and corrupted matter. + +The principal complaints which attack Europeans are, malignant nervous +fevers, which prevail throughout the rainy season, but they are expelled by +the winds which blow in the month of December; from hence these _harmatans_ +are considered healthy, but I have heard various opinions among medical men +on this subject. Dr. Ballard (now no more), whose long residence at Bance +Island, and in Africa, and whose intimate acquaintance with the diseases of +these climates, peculiarly qualified him to decide upon the fact, was of +opinion, most decidedly, that the _harmatan_ season was not the most +healthy. + +When this malignant fever takes place in all its virulence, its +consequences are the most disastrous; the symptoms are violent and without +gradation, and the blood is heated to an increased degree beyond what is +experienced in Europe; the ninth day is generally decisive, and this is a +crisis that requires the most vigilant attention and care over the patient. +I speak this from personal experience. In consequence of the fatigues I +underwent in the Rio Pongo, and other rivers, and having been for several +days and nights exposed to an open sea, and to torrents of rain upon land, +I was seized with this dreadful disorder, although I had enjoyed an +uninterrupted state of good health before, and on my arrival at the colony +of Sierra Leone was unable to support myself on shore; and had it not been +for the kind attention and skilful prescriptions of Dr. Robson of that +colony, with the friendly offices of Captain Brown, I should, in all +probability, at this stage have finished my travels and existence together. +Dysenteries frequently follow this fever, which are of a very fatal +tendency, and sometimes the flux is unattended by fever. This disease is +not uncommon in persons otherwise healthy, but it is productive of great +debility, which requires a careful regimen; if it continues to a protracted +period, its consequences are often fatal. In my own case, a dysentery +followed the fever, and reduced me to a mere skeleton. The dry belly-ache +is another dangerous disease, accompanied by general languor, a decrease of +appetite, a viscous expectoration, and fixed pain in the stomach. Opium is +considered an efficacious medicine in this disease, and is administered +with great perseverance, accompanied by frequent fomentations. An infusion +of ginger drank in the morning has frequently good effects. Flannel assists +excretion, and is found beneficial. _Tetanos_ is also another disease +peculiar to Africa, and is a kind of spasm and convulsive contraction, for +which opium is the usual remedy. + +The Guinea worm is another disease among the natives, which is productive +of tumours upon the body and limbs, productive of great pain, and is a +contagious disease. This, however, is a subject without my province, and +which has been ably treated upon by gentlemen, whose profession fully +qualified them for the investigation. In addition to the many valuable +treatises upon tropical diseases, from high authority, I would recommend +Dr. Winterbottom's publication to the reader, as, embracing highly +important local information upon the diseases of the Windward Coast. + +I have only touched on those which have more immediately come within my +personal observation. Too much care cannot be taken by Europeans in +drinking, and even washing in the waters of Africa, which should always +undergo a filtering preparation, and I am persuaded that great +circumspection should be used in this respect: these and other precautions, +with a generous, but regular system of living, would no doubt tend to +diminish the fatal tendency of diseases in Africa. + +Without doubt, a series of professional observations and enquiry into the +temperature and periodical variations of the climate of Africa, and its +diseases, would be attended with the most important advantages to the +science of physic, and might ultimately prove of incalculable consequence +in preserving the valuable lives of our brave soldiers and sailors, exposed +to all the ravages of tropical climates. Advantages that are well worth the +attention of government, which would train up a body of physicians and +surgeons, initiated into the mysteries of the diseases peculiar to those +countries, which might tend to preserve a large portion of human beings of +the utmost consequence and importance to the state; and it might form a +part in the organization of colonial establishments, to attach thereto an +institution of this nature. + + + +CHAPTER X. + + + + +_The Author visits the Isles de Loss.--Remarks on those Islands.--Touches +at the River Scarcies.--Arrives at the Colony of Sierra Leone.--Embarks for +the West Indies--Lands at the Colony of Demerory.--Some Observations on the +Productions of that Colony, Berbice, and Essequibo, and on the Importance +of Dutch Guiana to the United Kingdom, in a political and commercial View._ + + +On the 4th of July, I rejoined the Minerva at the Palm Trees, and on the +5th we weighed and passed the bar of the Rio Pongo, steering our course for +the Isles de Loss; and on the 6th came to an anchor off Factory Island. + +The Isles de Loss, in the Portuguese language meaning Islands of Idols, are +so called from the idolatrous customs of the natives, and are seven in +number; Tammara, Crawford's, Factory, Temba, White's, Goat, and Kid +islands. Tammara is the largest, but very difficult of approach, and has +few inhabitants; Crawford's has two factories for trade, belonging to +gentlemen formerly in the service of the Sierra Leone Company; and Factory +Island has an American establishment, conducted by a Mr. Fisk, These are +the principal (the others being little more than barren rocks), and they +abound in vegetation and natural productions. Squilly, or the sea onion, to +which great medicinal qualities are ascribed, grows in great abundance in +these islands, and might be procured in almost any quantity. Dr. Lewis, in +the _Materia Medica_, or _Edinburgh Dispensary_, describes the peculiar +qualities of this root. + +The positions of these islands are excellent for trade, but exposed to the +predatory excursions of the enemy, who have frequently pillaged the +factories established in Crawford's Island. + +On the 9th we again got under weigh, steering our course for the entrance +into the river Scarcies. The night was attended by tremendous peals of +thunder, lightning, and torrents of rain: we continued off and on until the +12th, when we arrived outside Mattacont Island, bearing E. by S. and the +Isles de Loss in sight. At 2 P.M. I accompanied Captain Brown, with five +hands, in the pinnace, with the intention of running into the Scarcies +river. We sailed with a fresh breeze in expectation of gaining the entrance +by the approach of night; but we were obliged to anchor in the open sea, +amidst the most awful peals of thunder, while the whole heaven displayed +nothing but vivid flashes of lightning. Amidst this tremendous scene, +exposed to the mercy of the waves, with the prospect of being deluged by +rain, we secured our little bark and ourselves, in the best manner our +circumstances would admit, and committed ourselves to the all protecting +care and disposal of Providence. The mantle of night was soon spread around +us, the scene was grand and solemn, and we were at length hushed to rest by +the jar of elements, and the murmurs of the ocean. We awoke to contemplate +an azure sky, and the all-bountiful mercy of the Creator, in preserving us +from such imminent danger, to pursue our destination through breakers, +shoals, and sands. + +At day-light, with a breeze from the land, we weighed, and steered our +course S.S.E. for the Scarcies bar, but the wind shifting to the S.E. and +the ebb tide running strong, we were nearly driven out of sight of land; we +were therefore obliged again to anchor, and wait the change of tide. +Trusting to a sea breeze that had just set in, it being slack water, we +again weighed: the serenity of the weather did not long continue, but soon +increased to a brisk gale, accompanied by thunder, lightning and rain; we +were driven with great impetuosity through the narrow channel between the +bar and the shore, and from the shallowness of the water, the rollers +continually broke over our heads, threatening our destruction every moment. +Providentially we surmounted these dangers, and at 5 P.M. entered the +river, which is interspersed with islands and picturesque objects, that +could not be viewed without interest. I have been thus minute in describing +this excursive voyage, that others, whose business may hereafter lead them +to this river, may profit by the difficulties we experienced in this +critical and dangerous passage. We were obliged to come to an anchorage in +the river during the night, under a very violent rain, and the next day +arrived at Robart, the factory of Mr. Aspinwall. + +This gentleman, whom a previous acquaintance had induced me to visit, +received us with great hospitality and kindness. From a residence of +upwards of 32 years on the coast, he possesses much intelligence and +valuable information relative to this part of Africa, and I am indebted to +him not only on this, but on former occasions, for many interesting +particulars. + +The factories of trade in this river are, + + + + Mr. Aspinwall, Robart. + Boatswain, A black chief and trader, above Robart. + Mr. Lewis, Rocoopa, attached to Bance Island. + Mr. Gordon, Thomas's Island, ditto. + + + +With a variety of small factories attached to those of Mr. Aspinwall. + +On the 15th we took leave of Mr. Aspinwall, and embarked on board a +schooner he had the kindness to furnish us with; and after a very tedious +and tempestuous passage, arrived at Sierra Leone on the 21st, having had +contrary winds to contend with; whereas with a favourable breeze, the +passage is usually performed in a few hours. + +Here I was attacked with the epidemic fever of Africa, and experienced the +medical assistance and friendship I have previously noticed. + +In an exceedingly exhausted state, but much recovered, I again embarked on +board the Minerva, where I had a second attack of the fever, accompanied by +dysentery, which reduced me to the lowest state of existence; and after one +of the most distressing and disagreeable voyages I ever experienced, we +arrived in Demerary roads after a passage of 71 days, and, by the +providence of the Almighty, we escaped both disease and the enemy. + +A few hours after we came to an anchor I went on shore, and I verily +believe that the passengers and spectators suspected they had received a +visitation from the world of spirits. When I reached the house of Mr. Colin +McCrea, Captain Brown's consignee, the unaffected and gentlemanlike +reception I met with, both from him and his lady, with their subsequent +kind conduct, can never be effaced from my memory. Captain Brown soon +joined us, and in the most engaging terms we were invited to become inmates +with Mr. McCrea and his partner, which we availed ourselves of during our +stay in Demerary. A few days after, I became acquainted with Mr. Alexander +McCrea, brother to my kind host, and as soon as my health would permit, +visited him at his plantation, the Hope, 11 miles from Stabroke, the +capital of the colony of Demerary. In this society, and from other +quarters, I was favoured with various information upon the situation of the +colonies in Dutch Guiana, and their importance in a political and +commercial point of view. + +The colonial produce of Demerary, Essequibo, and Berbice, chiefly consists +in sugar, coffee, cotton, rum, and molasses; but the richness and fertility +of the soil is capable of raising any tropical production; new sources +being daily unfolded, of the immense wealth derivable from these colonies, +and their great importance to Great Britain. The following example, +extracted from the Custom House reports, may elucidate this in a striking +degree. + +In the June fleet of 1804, consisting of sixty sail of various burthen and +tonnage, there were exported, viz. + + + + 17,235 Casks of sugar. 203 Casks coffee. + 442 Barrels do. 39,701 Barrels cotton. + 3,399 Puncheons rum. 336 Hhds. molasses. + 8,668,885 lbs. wt. coffee. + + + +Calculating sugar at £20. per cask, and £3. per barrel; rum 150 guilders, +or £12. 10s. per puncheon; coffee 1s. per lb.; cotton £20. per bale of 3 +cwt; and molasses a guilder, or 1s. 8d. per gallon, the total amount will +be upwards of £1,600,000. + +This immense export has since progressively increased, and colonists are +only wanting to augment it to an inconceivable extent. How valuable then do +these colonies become, and of what importance are they, in any negociation +with the enemy. + +Unquestionably under the fostering care and guidance of British +jurisprudence, they would produce an accumulated export infinitely beyond +the present computation, and be productive of increasing wealth to the +merchant, and revenue to the country. + +The lands are still more fertile proceeding towards the interior, and being +thinly inhabited, are attainable with great facility, and are extremely +various in their productions. + +At this period these valuable possessions were nearly in a defenceless +state, having a very inadequate and feeble military force to defend them, +and being almost without naval protection; they had literally only an armed +brig and schooner, built and set a float by the colony of Demerary, to +guard an extensive coast, and an immense property. + +In addition to the foregoing enumeration of commerce, indigo, pepper, +cacoa, or chocolate nut, &c. may be raised to great amount. Of the latter, +an individual planter at Berbice, from a nursery of 500,000 trees had +138,000 bearing ones in 1806, which when gathered in, calculating 5lb. to +each tree, will reimburse him in the sum of £32,000. + +Retrospectively viewed, it will appear that the colonies of Dutch Guiana +are of the utmost importance to the revenue, and wealth of Great Britain. +If any consequence is attached by government to the West Indies, and it +would be preposterous to infer that there is not, these become of great +magnitude in the estimation of our colonial possessions, and if they are to +revert to their former proprietors, it evidently should be for no mean +equivalent; and it is but justice to say, that when I was in this part of +the world, the apparent negligence in the protection and jurisdiction of +these possessions, by the administration of the day, had so far alienated +the minds of the inhabitants, that their reversion to the former government +did not appear to be a subject which would excite their regret; although +they were originally predisposed in favour of Great Britain. + +Contemplating also Dutch Guiana in our present state of warfare, and +viewing it, from its contiguity, as an alliance of magnitude to French +Guiana, the Brazils, and the Spanish settlements of South America, from +whence, in the existing situation of Europe, the insatiate ambition of our +inveterate enemy derives an important sinew of finance, which nerves his +arm in wielding the sword against the liberties and the existence of the +United Kingdom, they become infinitely enhanced, and are of still more +momentous consideration. + +Indisputably their possession would tend much to facilitate the British +dominion in this lucrative portion of the globe, which might lead to a +decisive termination of hostilities, and the permanent establishment of +honourable tranquillity. + +On the morning of the 30th of October I took my grateful leave of my +hospitable host and his family; and, accompanied by my trusty friend, +fellow voyager and traveller, Captain Brown, I embarked at noon on board +the ship Admiral Nelson, the command of which he had taken, accompanied by +about 20 sail of vessels under convoy of his Majesty's sloop of war, the +Cygnet, commanded by------Maude, Esq. + +Touching at Tobago, where our fleet was augmented, we came to an anchor in +the harbour of Grenada, on the 5th of November, and remained there until +the 9th. + +The history of this island, with that of the West Indies in general, is so +well known, that it would be delaying my readers unnecessarily, for me to +obtrude my observations. One anecdote, however, which among a variety of +experiments, I made to ascertain the sentiments of the Negroes in the +colonies, may prove, in a high degree, their sentiments upon their present +condition. When I mentioned to them some spot, or some head man in their +country within their recollection, with the utmost extacy they would say, +"eh! you look that, massa?" I then assured them I had, and described the +pullam, or palm tree, in their native town: the effect of this remembrance +was instantaneous, and demonstrated by the most extravagant expressions of +delight. Conceiving that I had attained my object, and being persuaded that +the transportation of these people was an oppressive transgression against +their natural rights, I added, "I had fine ship, I go back to their +country, and obtain leave from massa, to let them go look their country;" a +sudden transition from extravagance to grave reflection followed; "I, +massa, me like that very well, me like much to look my country; but +suppose, massa, they make me slave, me no see my massa again; all the same +to me where I be slave, but me like my massa best, and I no look my country +with you." + +Among every class with whom 1 have conversed on this subject, I have +uniformly received a similar answer, and it is a convincing proof that, by +humane treatment, the condition of the slave is improved, not only by his +transportation to the colonies, but in his own estimation. + +It may be interesting to notice, that at the island of Grenada, I had an +opportunity of correctly ascertaining the truth of a statement, I had heard +from a medical gentleman of respectability at Demerary, that, that ravager +of the human species, the yellow fever, was first imported into this island +from the island of Bulam, in the Rio Grande, upon the coast of Africa, by a +ship called the Hankey, which brought away the sickly colonists from that +unfortunate expedition. + +On the 16th we arrived at Tortola, and on the 19th sailed with the fleet +under convoy of the La Seine frigate, and landed at Liverpool on the 6th of +January, 1806. + + + +CHAPTER XI. + + + + +_Conclusion_. + +I have endeavoured in the foregoing pages, to introduce to my readers, the +substance of my diary of observations upon the Windward Coast of Africa. + +Originally I only intended them for my own private satisfaction, and that +of my intimate friends; but on my arrival in England, I found that the +commerce of Africa was then a particular subject in agitation, among a +large portion of my fellow subjects, and the legislature of my country. + +Under these circumstances, I conceived it my duty as a British commercial +subject, and as a friend to humanity, to communicate my sentiments to the +Right Honourable Lord Viscount Howick, then one of his Majesty's principal +secretaries of state; which I did in the subjoined letter. (Appendix No. +I.) Upon further reflection, and by the express wish of respectable +individuals, I have been induced to obtrude my narrative and sentiments +upon the notice of the public. I have avoided as much as possible to +magnify my personal adventures, and dangers, nor have I had recourse to the +flowing periods of description, preferring a simple narrative of facts +formed upon grounds of personal observation. From thence, if my endeavours +tend to awaken a spirit of enterprise, to enlarge the trade of the united +kingdom, and to increase the export of its manufactures, or lead to more +intelligent interference in behalf of the enslaved African, my design will +be accomplished. + +To do justice to the natural history of Africa, and to introduce to the +public its various sources of commerce, would require a union of political +interests, and vigorous execution, which none but government can apply with +full effect. + +The principal outline which I have endeavoured to confine myself to, is a +recital of such traits of the disposition and character of the natives, as +seem requisite to be understood to form an accurate judgment of the present +condition of Africa. The advantages that may possibly result not only from +moral, but political considerations, in forming upon sure principles, +agricultural and mercantile establishments, calculated to instruct and +civilize the Negroes employed in the necessary avocations, will unfold the +fertility of their soil which is now left to nature; and will also fulfil +the expectations of a rational humanity, while it might rapidly expel +slavery and the Slatee trade, to the establishment of civilization, and +more natural commerce. I have also endeavoured to demonstrate the +eligibility of the position of the river Sierra Leone, from whence a +controlling and administrative authority might employ the resources of the +Windward Coast from Cape Verde to Cape Palmas, at the same time submitting +solely to the wisdom of government, the propriety of annexing Senegal to +our possessions on the coast; which of course would tend to the total +exclusion of France from this part of the world. + +I have besides dwelt upon such positions, as appear to me best calculated +to establish factories of trade and agricultural operation; and upon the +nations whose barbarism must first be subdued, in order to influence other +tribes, and to obtain a free intercourse with the interior, and have +pointed out those chiefs whose dispositions and influence, would greatly +co-operate to facilitate this beneficent undertaking. + +The rivers I have dwelt upon, are surrounded with fertile lands and a +numerous population, and may be navigated a considerable distance into the +interior country; and by reducing all operations to one well adapted +system, under the guidance of experience, moderation, and wisdom, I am +firmly persuaded that success will be the result. + +What I have said relative to the present state of the natives of Africa, +may tend to demonstrate the nature of the opposition, which civilization +has to guard against, and the barbarism it has to contend with. The +condition of a free Negro in Africa is easy and contented, and the class of +slaves attached to them, are satisfied with their fate. They only are to be +lamented, who are procured from condemnation, either for real or imaginary +crimes, or who are taken in war; and it is from this class that slaves are +procured by other nations. It is a remarkable circumstance, that the major +part of these unhappy creatures come from the interior, and that the +maritime places which have had intercourse with Europeans, afford only a +small number of slaves; and I am persuaded, abominable as the slave trade +may be considered, and disgraceful as it is, that it has saved many human +beings from a premature and barbarous death. I am also firmly of opinion, +that it is only by a _gradual abolition_, and a rational system to civilize +the inhabitants of Africa, that this detested traffic can be effectually +abolished. A rational philosophy and humanity, should first have submitted +to political necessity, and have commenced experiment upon practicable +theories, while the sacred rights of property should have been regarded, +and well considered. + +This opinion may perhaps subject me to the animadversion of many worthy +individuals; but I beg to assure them, that I am as zealous an abolitionist +as any among my fellow subjects, although I widely differ from many of +them, as to the means of effecting a measure, that embraces so large a +portion of the human race; and I should contradict the conviction of my own +mind, were I to utter any other opinion. + +Rectitude of intention, a lively interest in the condition of the African, +and a deep impression of the importance of this country to Great Britain, +in a commercial point of view, have actuated me in obtruding myself upon +the public; and before I take my leave, I earnestly entreat a deliberate +investigation of the imperfect system of operation, I have recommended in +the foregoing pages. If I have not been sufficiently perspicuous, I trust +the shafts of criticism will be enfeebled by the consideration, that a +commercial education and pursuit cannot claim a title to literary +acquirements; but if in any instance I meet the judgment of a discerning +public, and my suggestions excite more competent endeavours, I shall feel +the highest pleasure, and satisfaction. + +Into the hands of an enlightened legislature, and a beneficent public, I +commit the Negro race; and may their endeavours be blest by Providence! may +they tend to enlarge the circle of civilized and Christian society, and +augment the commercial prosperity of the United Kingdom! + + + +APPENDIX. + +No. I. + +_To the Right Honourable Lord Viscount Howick, his Majesty's late principal +Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs; shewing at one View the most simple +and ready Mode of gradually and effectually abolishing the Slave Trade, and +eradicating Slavery, on the Eve of his Lordship introducing the late Bill +into Parliament for the Abolition of the Slate Trade_. + + + _London, 5th February, 1807._ + + MY LORD, + + +Stimulated by an ardent zeal for the political and commercial interests of +my country, and animated by the principles of humanity, I venture to +approach your Lordship upon a subject which, with every deference, I +conceive to be of the most momentous consequence at the present +conjuncture, namely, the existing state of Africa, and the relative +importance of its trade to the _United Kingdom_. + +In my communications to your Lordship, I shall adhere to that brevity which +is consistent with perspicuity, and a recognition of the importance +attached to your Lordship's time and weighty engagements. + +If experimental knowledge, my Lord, attaches any force to the observations +I now submit to your Lordship, I have to premise, that they are the result +of recent personal investigation, and are a summary of remarks detailed in +journals of a very excursive observation on the Windward Coast of Africa, +and a peculiar facility of intercourse with the chiefs and native tribes of +a widely extended circle, from which I am returned, by the West Indies, in +the late fleet under the convoy of his Majesty's frigate La Seine, and +Merlin sloop of war. + +As a preliminary introduction, permit me to refer your Lordship to the +annexed copy of a letter, (Appendix No. II.) which I ventured to address to +the Right Honourable the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, dated 1st +May, ultimo, in which is exemplified the present state of commerce from the +Island of Goree to Cape Palmas. Vide page 54. + +Conclusive as this example may be of its magnitude, yet it is infinitely +below its attainable increase. The want of naval protection, and the +patronage of government, has greatly fettered it, and exposed the property +engaged therein, to the incursions and destructive depredations of the +enemy. + +Connected with its present extent, the Gambia, the Rio Pongo, the river +Sierra Leone, and the rivers adjacent to Cape Palmas, abound with the +greatest variety of the most lucrative and rare objects of commercial +pursuit, namely, indigo, numerous plants for staining, pepper, cotton, and +a multifarious enumeration of dormant productions, besides timber of +various kinds, adapted to the building of ships destined to tropical +climates, having the peculiar quality of resisting the worm, so ruinous to +shipping, and corroding iron; it may be cut into planks of 20 feet by 15 +inches, and may be procured in any quantity. + +A retrospective view therefore, my Lord, displays a fruitful field to +commercial enterprise, to the attention of civilized nations, to the +naturalist, and to the metaphysician, requiring united interference only, +to unfold and fertilize them; which in effect, would tend to enfranchise a +kindred species, absorbed in barbarism, and preserve, uninterrupted, our +commercial advantages with this extraordinary and important quarter of the +globe. + +It is, certainly, my Lord, a subject of the deepest regret to the +philanthropist, that among the Africans, a devoted race is consigned to the +galling fetters of slavery by their inhuman customs, by their barbarous +hostilities, and the commercial expedients of civilized states. + +Much has been written and said, my Lord, upon this interesting subject, +from authority high in rank, in talents, and situation, but still it is +involved in a perplexed labyrinth; the attainable sources of African +commerce remain unexplored, and the inhabitants of its extensive regions +are still entangled by the thraldom of barbarous customs, and superstitious +infidelity. No efficient measures have been adopted, upon practicable +grounds, to unite the views of humanity and commerce in one harmonious +compact, compatible with the present condition of Africa, its character, +its customs, and its inveterate barbarism. + +Benevolence has, unhappily, hitherto failed in its objects, through the +opposition of a peculiar mixture of passions, of obstinate ferocity, and +licentious and hereditary habits. + +To subdue the inveteracy of these evils, and to establish the manumission +of the African, alluring and progressive alterations are necessary, +compatible with his present condition, under the influence of agriculture +and mechanics, adapted to the useful purposes of life, to commerce, and to +navigation. + +Previous to his enfranchisement, my Lord, these must exhibit before him +their facinations upon his native plains. Too impetuous and indolent to +observe the forms, or to enter into the necessary details of business, he +views the effect without investigating the cause; but when he perceives the +former, and contemplates his own comparative wretchedness, and contracted +sphere of intellect, he will be roused from his innate indolence, his +powers will be dilated, and his emulation stimulated to attain a more +exalted state of being, while his barbarism will fall before the luminous +displays of enlightened example. + +Hence, to free the African, commercial and agricultural societies adapted +to the present state of the country, appear to be the most practicable +means, and the only sources of remunerative and effective influence: but as +these measures necessarily require population from the parent state, aided +by great pecuniary support, and intelligent superintendance; the patronage +of the legislature is indispensibly requisite, to aid individual and +corporate endeavours. + +In pursuance hereof, imperceptible and circumspect approach at innovation +upon the laws, customs, and country of Africa, are highly expedient; the +chiefs and head men claim a primary consideration; their obstinate +predilection in favour of long-existing usage must be cajoled, the +inveteracy of their jealousies and superstitions be dexterously removed, +and their sordid avarice flattered, by the judicious maxims of policy, and +by the prospects of superior gain. + +The slave trade, therefore, being lucrative, and of immemorial existence, +must, in the interim, pursue its present course, as a fatality attached to +the condition of Africa, and as a polluted alliance, which the dictates of +policy and humanity impose, until a succedaneum is found in its stead. + +While this invidious exigency obstructs the immediate manumission of the +slave, it does not the less accelerate it in conformity thereto, but on the +contrary, is a necessary preliminary to his efficacious emancipation. + +Before he is admitted into the political society of his master, and is +allowed to be free, his intellectual faculties must be expanded by the +example of polished society, and by the arts of civilization. + +Maxims of policy, my Lord, are often apparently little consonant with those +of morality; and where an inveterate evil in society is to be eradicated, +address and delicacy in managing the humours and interests of men, are arts +requisite to success. + +This consideration is applicable to the present condition of the Africans, +and may perhaps justify a farther continuance of the _slave trade_, as +compatible with its _radical abolition_. + +The reasonings adopted by a numerous assemblage of chiefs, convened in the +retirement of the mountains of Sierra Leone, when _that_ company assumed a +defensive attitude, most clearly prove this grievous necessity. + +In their idiom of our language they say, "White man now come among us with +new face, talk palaver we do not understand, they bring new fashion, great +guns, and soldiers into our country, but they make no trade, or bring any +of the fine money of their country with them, therefore we must make war, +and kill these white men." + +This, my Lord, is an impressive epitome of the sentiments of the whole +country, and hence the impolicy of illuminating their minds and abolishing +slavery, in order to erect a system of reformation upon an invidious base +in the estimation of the governing characters of the country. + +With every deference, my Lord, to the wisdom and benevolence which framed +the constitution of the Sierra Leone Company, I would observe, that had +they adopted the following measures, they would before now have been far +advanced in their scheme of reformation. + +1st. They should have employed their funds in the established commerce of +the country. 2d. Have purchased slaves from as _wide an extent_ of native +tribes as was practicable; they should have employed them in that capacity, +under the superintendence of the European colonist; have initiated them +into the arts of agriculture and useful mechanics, manufactures, and +navigation, and have instructed them in the rudiments of letters, religion, +and science, &c. + +3d. having arrived at this state of civilization and knowledge, their +_graduated manumission_ should have proceeded in proportion to their +fidelity and attainments. + +And, lastly, being thus qualified, they should have employed them as the +agents to their tribe, to make known to them the arcana of wealth in their +country, dormant through hereditary barbarism and superstitious idolatry, + +From the adoption of the first proposition, a facility of intercourse with +the interior and native tribes would have been acquired, and also a +knowledge of the genius, policy, customs, manners, and commercial resources +of the neighbouring nations. + +By the 2d, the seeds of science would have been disseminated throughout an +extended district, and a spirit of industry and enquiry would have been +infused, which, by imperceptible degrees, under the guidance of Providence, +might eventually have been spread throughout the most remote regions of +Africa. + +By means of the 3d, the objects of humanity would have been realized. + +And by the progressive influence of the last, a system of civilization and +commercial enterprize would have been diffused, and an equivalent, in +process of time, been obtained, consistent with the cogency of existing +circumstances, and the African's present state of being. + +By adopting this system, my Lord, the maxims of sagacious policy, and the +claims of humanity, upon practicable principles, may be united, and adapted +to the present condition of Africa, while our commerce therewith will be +invigorated and encreased, and will flow without interruption through a +less polluted channel; the seclusion of the African from the refined arts +of society be annihilated, his jealousies allayed, his nature regenerated, +his barbarism fall before the advantages of enlightened existence, and his +enslaved customs make their natural exit, together with the slave trade, +from his shores and his country. + +How animating is this contemplation, my Lord, to the beneficence of +enlightened nations, and how worthy of the magnanimity of a British +government to effect! + +In the interim, my Lord, new and accumulated sources of commerce, &c. will +remunerate the parent state in a manner more congenial with the natural +rights of mankind, while a monumental column will be erected to humanity, +which will perpetuate its exalted benevolence, and excite the admiration +of, and be an example to, the civilized world; but if Africa is abandoned +by Great Britain, it will be subject to the rapacity of other nations, who, +_to my personal knowledge_, are _now_ directing their views towards its +commerce in the contemplation of that abandonment, and who will, no doubt, +seize it with avidity, as being highly lucrative and important; while the +African's chains will still clink in the ears of the civilized world, his +fetters be rivetted more closely, and his miserable fate be consigned to +the uncertainty of human events. + +Finally, permit me to assure your Lordship, that I am wholly uninfluenced, +and that I am, at this moment, ignorant of the present opinions of men in +Europe upon this interesting subject, as I have just arrived in England, +and have been excluded for some time past from any other scene but that of +personal observation in Africa. + +I have considered the subject with deep interest, and finding the momentous +question upon the eve of being agitated by the legislature, I have +conceived it my duty, as a British commercial Subject, to give every +information to your Lordship, within my personal knowledge, and have, +therefore, obtruded my thoughts upon you; and if your Lordship deems a more +detailed and systematic view of my journals of any interest, I am ready to +unfold them with the utmost alacrity. In the interim, I am, + + + My Lord, + Your Lordship's most obedient + humble servant, + + + + JOSEPH CORRY. + + +No. II. + + + + _To the Right Honourable the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty,_ + _referred to in the foregoing Letter to Lord Howick._ + + _Bance Island, River Sierra Leone, Coast of Africa,_ + _May 1st, 1806._ + + + + MY LORDS, + + +That consideration which has uniformly distinguished your Lordships for the +safe-guardianship of our commerce, and the property engaged in it, +stimulates me to approach your Lordships with some few observations on the +present state of the African trade, and its dependencies. + +My object is, to submit to your Lordships a statement of the British +capital involved in that commerce, as exemplified by the present amount of +export, diligently ascertained from the most authentic sources of +intelligence, and to offer some brief remarks on its importance to the +United Kingdom, and the necessity of a more adequate naval protection. + +In the first place, permit me to solicit your Lordships' attention to the +estimate of annual export from the Windward Coast of Africa. (Vide page +54.) + +Your Lordships will perceive, that the amount of export _only_ is here +under review; and I submit to your consideration the capital vested in the +necessary shipping, also the property of British factors, resident on the +Coast, and factories belonging to merchants at home, which forms another +article of great importance. + +During the present war, from the Rio Noonez to the river Sierra Leone, 660 +slaves, and more than the value of 100 slaves in craft, have fallen into +the hands of the enemy; which were forcibly seized upon the premises of +factories, the property of British subjects, to the amount of 35,000_l_. at +the computation of 50 each, valuing them upon an equitable average: +moreover, about one hundred resident free people have been involved in this +violence, of incalculable importance, and ground of indefinite claims from +the natives. + +When your Lordships contemplate these facts, and the annual emolument +derived from this commerce by the government, and a numerous body of +merchants, it may be presumed that its magnitude is of sufficient +consequence to justify the expense of _adequate naval protection_. + +British subjects connected with, and resident on, the Coast, are +consequently become deeply interested, and are earnestly solicitous for an +extension of your Lordships' paternal care towards their possessions. The +principal amount, as before shewn, necessarily in the progress of business, +passes into currency through their hands, which, with the surplus property +they have in their stores, their buildings, and people, creates a momentous +risque, which is exposed to the predatory ravages of piccaroon privateers, +and to the hostile squadrons and depredations of the enemy. + +With all due retrospective reference to your Lordships' vigilance and +watchful guardianship over our commerce, I take the liberty to remind your +Lordships, that only one sloop of war, the Arab, (the Favourite being +taken) has been charged with the important office of defending an extent of +coast of upwards of 1000 miles, against the sweeping hand of the enemy; an +example of which has fatally occurred in the late destruction effected by +Commodore L'Hermitte's squadron, to the very serious injury of many British +merchants, and perhaps the ruin of many underwriters upon African risques. + +From the apparent approaches the legislature appears to make towards an +abolition of the slave trade, the object of consideration for the defence +of the coast of Africa may have become of less comparative magnitude; but +when upwards of one million in export from thence, and its enumerated +appendages, are entangled, and at imminent hazard, an animated and +impressive appeal is made your Lordships for every practicable security, +while it remains in existence; and to the legislative wisdom, for a +remuneration commensurate thereto, in the event of its annihilation. + +Trusting that your Lordships will deign to recognize the importance of this +subject, and will vouchsafe to pardon my temerity in assuming to suggest to +your Lordships' wisdom the expediency of establishing a more adequate and +permanent naval force for the protection of the trade and coast of Africa, +I am, + + + My Lord, + Your Lordship's most obedient + devoted humble servant, + + + + JOSEPH CORRY. + + +No. III. + + +When the foregoing narrative and observations were prepared for the press, +the original minutes from whence the following Appendix is compiled, had +not come to hand, as they remained with a part of my papers, which I have +since received from the coast of Africa. + +The substance of these miscellaneous fragments I shall divide into +sections, descriptive of the different subjects to which they allude, and +it may be found that they illustrate more fully many of the foregoing +remarks upon the Windward Coast of Africa. + +SECTION I. + +_Of the Purrah_. + +Among the singular customs of the inhabitants of Africa, there exists in +the vicinity of the Sierra Leone, and more particularly among the mixed +tribes of the Foolahs, Soosees, Boolams, &c. an institution of a religious +and political nature. It is a confederation by a solemn oath, and binds its +members to inviolable secrecy not to discover its mysteries, and to yield +an implicit obedience to superiors, called by the natives the _Purrah_. + +As it is dangerous to enquire from the natives, and consequently difficult +to procure information on this subject, conjecture must supply the want of +oral and ocular testimony; but what I have here advanced I had from an +intelligent chief, who was a member of the society, who, I am nevertheless +convinced, preserved his integrity, in communicating the following +particulars, as I never could induce him to touch upon any part of the +mysteries, which he acknowledged to exist, but spoke of them with the +utmost reserve. + +The members of this secret tribunal are under the supreme control of a +sovereign, whose superior, or _head man_, commands by his council, absolute +submission and authority from the subordinate councils and members. + +To be admitted into the confederacy it is necessary to be thirty years of +age; and to be a member of the grand _purrah_, fifty years; and the oldest +member of the subordinate _purrahs_ form those of the sovereign _purrahs_. + +No candidate is admitted but at the recommendation and responsibility of +members, who imprecate his death, if he betrays fear during his initiation +into the ceremonies, or the sacred mysteries of the association; from which +females are entirely excluded. + +Some months elapse, in the preparation for admission, and the candidate +passes through the severest trials, in which every dreadful expedient is +employed to ascertain his firmness of mind, and courage. + +The candidate is conducted to a sacred wood, where a place is appointed for +his habitation, from which he dares not absent himself; if he does, he is +immediately surrounded and struck dead. His food is supplied by men masked, +and he must observe an uniform silence. + +Fires, during the night, surround these woods, to preserve them inviolate +from the unhallowed steps of curiosity, into which if indiscretion tempts +any one to enter, a miserable exit is the result. + +When the trials are all gone through, _initiation_ follows; the candidate +is first sworn to secrecy, to execute implicitly the decrees of the +_purrah_ of his order, and to be devoted to the commands of the _sovereign +purrah_. + +During the process of initiation, the hallowed woods resound with dreadful +howlings, shrieks, and other horrid noises, accompanied by conflagrations +and flames. + +This secret and inquisitorial tribunal takes cognizance of crimes and +delinquencies, more especially witchcraft and murder; and also operates as +a mediator in wars, and dissentions among powerful tribes and chiefs. Its +interference is generally attended with effect, more particularly if +accompanied by a threat of vengeance from the _purrah_; and a suspension of +hostilities is scrupulously observed, until it is determined who is the +aggressor; while this investigation takes place by the sovereign _purrah_, +as many of the warriors are convoked, as they conceive necessary to enforce +their judgment, which usually consigns the guilty to a pillage of some +days. To execute the decree, they avail themselves of the night to depart +from the place where the sovereign _purrah_ is assembled, previously +disguising their persons with hideous objects, and dividing themselves into +detachments, armed with torches and warlike weapons; they arrive at the +village of the condemned, and proclaim with tremendous yells the decree of +the sovereign _purrah_. The affrighted victims of superstition and +injustice are either murdered or made captives, and no longer form a people +among the tribes. + +The produce arising from this horrid and indiscriminate execution of the +decrees of this tribunal is divided equally between the injured tribe, and +the sovereign _purrah_; the latter share is again subdivided among the +warriors employed in the execution of its diabolical decree, as a +recompense for their zeal, obedience, and promptitude. + +The families of the tribes under the dominion of this infernal confederacy, +when they become objects of suspicion or rivalry, are subjected to +immediate pillage, and if they resist, are dragged into their secret +recesses, where they are condemned, and consigned to oblivion. + +Its supreme authority is more immediately confined to the Sherbro; and the +natives of the Bay of Sierra Leone speak of it with reserve and dread: they +consider the brotherhood as having intercourse with the _bad spirit_, or +devil, and that they are sorcerers, and invulnerable to human power. Of +course the _purrah_ encourages these superstitious prejudices, which +establish their authority and respect, as the members are numerous, and are +known to each other by certain signs and expressions. The Mandingos have +also their sacred woods and mysteries, where, by their delusions and +exorcisms, they prepare their children for circumcision. + +The Soosees, inhabiting the borders of the Rio Pongo, have a species of +_purrah_, which gives its members great consequence among them; but their +ceremonies are kept also with inviolable secrecy, and they are bound by +horrid oaths and incantations. These people seem to delight in +disseminating improbable tales of their institution, and their invention +appears to be exhausted in superstitious legends of its mysteries. + +The Timmanees have an inquisitorial institution called _bunda_, noticed in +page 72, to which women only are subjected. The season of penitence is +superintended by an elderly woman, called _bunda_ woman; and fathers even +consign their wives and daughters to her investigation when they become +objects of suspicion. Here is extracted from them an unreserved confession +of every crime committed by themselves, or to which they are privy in +others. Upon their admission they are besmeared with white clay, which +obliterates every trace of human appearance, and they are solemnly abjured +to make an unequivocal confession; which if not complied with, they are +threatened with death as the inevitable consequence. The general result is +a discovery of fact and falsehood, in proportion as their fears of +punishment are aroused, which the _bunda_ woman makes known to the people +who assemble in the village or town where the _bunda_ is instituted. If she +is satisfied with the confession, the individual is dismissed from the +_bunda_, and, as is noticed in Chapter VII. an act of oblivion is passed +relative to her former conduct; but where the crime of witchcraft is +included, slavery is uniformly the consequence: those accused as partners +of her guilt are obliged to undergo the ordeal by _red water_, redeem +themselves by slaves, or go into slavery themselves. + +When the _bunda_ woman is dissatisfied with the confessions, she makes the +object sit down, and after rubbing poisonous leaves, procured for the +purpose, between her hands, and infusing them in water, she makes her drink +in proportion to its strength. It naturally occasions pain in the bowels, +which is considered as an infallible evidence of guilt. Incantations and +charms are then resorted to by the _bunda_ woman, to ascertain what the +concealed crime is, and after a _decent_ period employed in this +buffoonery, the charges are brought in conformity with the imagination or +malignity of this priestess of mystery and iniquity. + +During the continuance of this engine of avarice, oppression, and fraud in +any town, the chiefs cause their great drum and other instruments of music +to be continually in action, and every appearance of festive hilarity +pervades among the inhabitants, accompanied by the song and the dance. + +Contumacy, or a refusal to confess, is invariably followed by death. + +In short, the bewildered natives feel the effects, and dread the power of +these extraordinary institutions; they know they exist, but their +deliberations and mysteries are impenetrably concealed from them; and the +objects of their vengeance are in total ignorance, until the annihilating +stroke of death terminates their mortal career. + +It is impossible to contemplate the religious institutions, and +superstitious customs of the western nations of Africa, north of the +equator, without closely assimilating them with those of Ethiopia and +Egypt; and from hence to infer that a correspondence has existed between +the eastern and western inhabitants of this great continent. + +SECTION II. + +_Of the_ Termite, Termes, _or_ Bug a Bug, _as it is called by the Natives +upon the Windward Coast of Africa._ + +Among the insects mentioned in page 36, the _termite, termes_, or _bug a +bug_, attracts peculiar notice. The following observations are derived from +the investigations I occasionally made upon the Island of Tasso, attached +to Bance Island, where they abound, and indeed in nearly all the western +countries of Africa. + +The oeconomy of nature, and the wisdom of Providence, are wonderfully +displayed in these little animals; for although they occasion the utmost +devastation to buildings, utensils, and all kinds of household furniture +and merchandize, and indeed every thing except metal and stone, yet they +answer highly important purposes in demolishing the immense quantity of +putrid substances, which load the earth in tropical climates. + +Their astonishing peculiarities cannot fail to excite the notice of an +attentive observer; the sagacity and ingenuity they display in their +buildings, their industry, and the plunder and devastation they commit, is +incredible to those who have not witnessed their communities and empires. +They are divided into innumerable societies, and acknowledge a king and +queen, the former of which I brought to Europe, but the latter was by +accident mislaid at sea. Linnaeus denominates the African _bug a bug, +Termes_, and describes it as the plague of the Indies. Every community, as +I have observed, has a king and queen, and the monarchy, if I may be +allowed the expression, forms three distinct orders of insects, in three +states of existence; of every species there are likewise three orders, +which differ very essentially in the functions they have to perform, and +are in appearance very different. + +In their primitive state, they are perfectly white; they have six little +feet, three on each side, and a small head, in which I could perceive no +eyes, after a minute investigation with a microscope. In this state they +supply the community with provisions from subterraneous cavities, fabricate +their pyramidical buildings, and may with great propriety be called +labourers. + +In a few weeks they destroy the largest trunks of trees, carry away all +descriptions of putrid substances, and particles of vegetable decay, which, +in such a climate as Africa, amply compensates for the ruin which they +otherwise occasion. + +Their buildings are contrived and finished with great ingenuity and +solidity, to a magnitude infinitely beyond the erections of man, when a +comparative dimension of size is considered. + +They are usually termed hills, and are generally in a conical form, from 10 +to 12 feet in perpendicular height, and frequently upwards of 100 feet +square in the base. + +For a considerable period, vegetation is banished from the surface of their +abode, but from the second to the third year, it becomes like the +surrounding soil. The exterior forms a crust, which shelters the interior +from the weather, and the community from the attacks of enemies. The +interior is divided into almost innumerable chambers or apartments, with +amazing regularity and contrivance; in the centre of which is the royal +residence of the king and queen, composed of solid clay, closely compacted, +and distinct from the external habitation, which accommodate their +subjects. It appears that the royal erection is the first which occupies +the attention of the labourers, as it is central in the foundation of the +hill which composes the empire at large. This makes its first appearance +above the surface of the earth in various turrets, in the form of a sugar +loaf, from which they increase their number, widening them from the base; +the middle one is the highest and largest, and they fill up the spaces as +they proceed, until the whole is formed into one. + +This compact construction is admirably adapted to guard against external +violence, and to preserve a genial warmth and moisture to cherish the +hatching of the eggs, and the young. + +The queen is by far the largest, and has an unwieldy body, of enormous +dimensions, when compared with her subjects; so also is the king, but +inferior in size to the queen. + +The royal residence is a full constructed hill, surrounded by an +innumerable number of others, differing in shape and dimensions, arched in +various forms, circular, and elliptical, which communicate by passages, +occupied by guards and attendants, and surrounded by nurseries and +magazines. But when the community is in an infant state, these are +contiguous to the royal residence; and in proportion as the size of the +queen increases, her chamber is enlarged, and her attendants and apartments +multiplied. + +The construction of the outward apartments which surround the central royal +residence, that of the _common father_ and _mother_ of the community, form +an intricate labyrinth of nurseries and magazines, separated by chambers +and galleries, communicating with each other, and continuing towards the +surface of the pyramid; and being arched, they support each other, and are +uniformly larger towards the centre. + +The second order of _termes_ are like the first, blind and active, but they +undergo a change of form, approaching to the perfect state; they are much +larger, and increase from about a quarter of an inch in length to half an +inch, and greater in bulk; and what is still more remarkable, the mouth is +armed with sharp claws, and the head is disproportionably enlarged. They +may properly be called the nurses and warriors of the kingdom; they urge +their fellow subjects in the _first_ state to labour, they inspect the +construction of the interior apartments, repel all attacks from enemies, +and devour them with fury; and may be considered as the standing army of +the state. + +In the third and last stage, they are winged; their bodies then measure +about 7/8ths of an inch in length, furnished with four brownish transparent +wings, rather large; they have eyes also of a disproportionate size, +visible to the observer. When they make their appearance in this state, it +is indicative of the approach of the rainy season. At this period they +procreate their species. + +They seldom wait before they take wing for a second or third shower; and +should the rain happen in the night, the quantities of them which are found +the next morning upon the surface of the earth, and on the waters, more +particularly upon the latter, are astonishing. The term of existence at +this stage is extremely short, and frequently on the following morning +after they have taken flight, they are surprisingly weakened and decreased; +at the utmost I do not think they live more than two days; and these +insects, so industrious, courageous, and destructive in the two first +periods of their existence, become the prey of innumerable enemies. +Indolent, and incapable of resisting the smallest insects, they are hunted +by various species from place to place, and not one pair in millions get +into a place of safety, to fulfil the laws of nature and propagation. + +Their wings in a short time fall from them, and the ponds and brooks are +covered with their carcases. The Negroes in many places collect them in +their calabashes, dry them, and fry them on a slow fire, which they +consider as a delicious morsel. + +A few, however, escape the general dissolution, several pairs of them are +found by those of the first genus, as they are continually moving over the +surface of the earth, and are carried by them to found new kingdoms and +communities. The royal mansion is then erected, as before described, their +wings fall off, and they pass the remainder of their existence in indolence +and luxury, and in the propagation of their species. Their dimensions now +undergo a monstrous change, more especially the queen; her abdomen augments +by degrees, and increases to a prodigious size, when compared with her two +first stages of existence; and the king, although greatly augmented, yet is +diminutive compared to his enormous spouse, who sometimes exceeds three +inches in length. She is in this state extremely prolific, and the matrix +is almost perpetually yielding eggs, which are taken from her by her +attendants, and are carried into the adjoining nurseries. + +The foregoing is a very imperfect delineation of this wonderful insect, +which requires the minutest description by an experienced and scientific +naturalist to illustrate clearly; and there are many secrets in the natural +history of this little animal that would amply reward his investigation +upon the different circumstances attending its existence. + +Those that build in trees, or erect pyramids, have a strong resemblance to +each other, and pass through the same stages to the winged state, but they +are not of so large a size as the foregoing; and it is a very singular +circumstance, that of all these different species, neither the labourers +nor soldiers expose themselves to the open air, but travel in subterraneous +vaults, unless when they are obstructed and impelled by necessity; and when +their covered ways and habitations are destroyed, it is wonderful how +quickly they will rebuild them. I have frequently destroyed them in the +evening, and have found them re-erected on the following morning. + +When a pair, in the perfect state, is rescued from the general devastation +which attends these little animals, they are by the two first species +elected king and queen, and are inclosed in a chamber, as before described, +around which a new empire is formed, and pyramids are erected. + +That species which builds in trees, frequently establish their abode in +houses also, which in time they will entirely destroy, if not extirpated. +The large kind, however, are more destructive, and more difficult to guard +against, as their approaches are principally made under-ground, and below +the foundation; they rise either in the floors, or under the posts, which +in African buildings support the roof, and as they proceed, they form +cavities towards the top, similar to the holes bored in the bottom of ships +by the worms, which appear to answer the same purpose in water as the +_termites_ do upon land. How convincing is this fact of the infinitely wise +arrangements of the Creator, who has united, in the whole system of +creation, one uniform conformation of order and utility; for although the +_vermis_, or worm, which is so pernicious to shipping in tropical climates, +and the _termite_, possess so many destructive qualities, yet these very +properties serve the most important purposes and designs. Scarcely any +thing perishable on land escapes the _termite_, or in water, the worm; and +it is from thence evident, that these animals are designed by nature to rid +both of incumbrances, which in tropical climates would be attended with +putrefaction and disease. + +The first object which strikes the attention, and excites admiration, upon +opening and investigating the hills of the _termites_, is, the conduct of +the armed species, or soldiers; when a breach is made by a pick-axe, or +hoe, they instantaneously sally forth in small parties round the breach, as +if to oppose the enemy, or to examine the nature of the attack, and the +numbers increase to an incredible degree as long as it continues; parties +frequently return as if to give the alarm to the whole community, and then +rush forth again with astonishing fury. At this period they are replete +with rage, and make a noise which is very distinguishable, and is similar +to the ticking of a watch; if any object now comes in contact with them, +they seize it, and never quit their hold until they are literally torn in +pieces. When the violence against their habitation ceases, they retire into +their nests, as if nothing had happened, and the observer will +instantaneously perceive the labourers at work, with a burthen of mortar in +their mouths, which they stick upon the breach with wonderful facility and +quickness; and although thousands and millions are employed, yet they never +embarrass the proceedings of each other, but gradually fill up the chasm. +While the labourers are thus employed, the greatest part of the soldiers +retire, a few only being discernible, who evidently act as overseers, and +at intervals of about a minute, make the vibrating noise before described, +which is immediately answered by an universal hiss from the labourers, and +at this signal they redouble their exertions with encreased activity. + +In minutely examining these hills, great obstacles present themselves to +the observer; the apartments and nurseries which surround the royal +habitation, and the whole internal fabric, are formed of moist brittle +clay, and are so closely connected, that they can only be examined +separately, for having a geometrical dependance upon each other, the +demolition of one pulls down more; patience is therefore exhausted in the +investigation, and it is impossible to proceed without interruption; for +while the soldiers are employed in defending the breach, the labourers are +engaged in barricading the different galleries and passages towards the +royal chamber. In one apartment which I dug out from a hill, I was forcibly +struck with their attachment and allegiance to their sovereigns; and as it +is capacious enough to hold a great number of attendants, of which it has a +constant supply, I had a fair opportunity offered for experiment, I secured +it in a small box; and these faithful creatures never abandoned their +charge; they were continually running about their king and queen, stopping +at every circuit, as if to administer to them, and to receive their +commands. + +Upon exposing their different avenues and chambers for a night only, before +the next morning, provided the king and queen are preserved, and their +apartments remain, it will be found that they are all shut up with a thin +covering of clay, and every interstice in the ruins, through which either +cold or wet could communicate, filled up, which is continued with +unremitting industry until the building is restored to its pristine state. + +Besides these species, there are also the _marching termites_, of an +encreased size, who make excursions in large bodies, and spread devastation +in their way; but as my means of observation upon them was only accidental, +it will be intruding an imperfect description to notice them at all; but if +we form a conclusion from the immense number of _termites_ which everywhere +abound in Africa, we shall be tempted to believe that their procreation is +endless and unceasing. + +When the papers came to hand which contained the substance of these remarks +upon this extraordinary insect, I did not intend to annex them to the +Observations on the Windward Coast of Africa, nor am I without some doubt +as to the propriety of so doing; the observation of the learned +_naturalist_ only can ascertain the economy of the _termite_, or _bug a +bug_, and I have therefore to apologize for obtruding these imperfect and +general remarks. + +SECTION III. + +_Of the Cameleon_. + +The cameleon is a native of the torrid zone, and is a genus of the lizard: +the faculty of assuming the colour of every object it approaches is +ascribed to it, and other singular properties; but there are many rare +phoenomena not so well understood, such as its absorption and expulsion of +air at pleasure, its property of living a considerable time without any +kind of nourishment, and its extraordinary visual advantages, which are +perhaps not to be found in any other of the wonderful works of the +creation. + +I have made various experiments to ascertain these extraordinary properties +in this little animal; and I brought home one in a preserved state. + +The first object which struck my attention, was the variation of colour; +and I am persuaded that it does not assume these from the surrounding +objects, but that they proceed from internal sensations of pain, or +otherwise. + +From the moment that the liberty of my captive was infringed upon, or when +interrupted in its pursuits, it became less sensible of external objects, +the vivacity of its colour, and the plumpness of its form underwent a +visible change. Its natural colour is a beautiful green; and when in a +state of liberty it is to be found in the grass, or lodged on the branches +of some tree, ornamented with the gayest foilage; and it would appear that +its liberty, and the privilege of living in the grass, are indispensible +towards the preservation of its qualities. The colour of its skin, in a +perfect state of health, is scarcely discernible from the trees and grass, +in which it delights to conceal itself, and is not to be discovered at all +without a very minute scrutiny. It remains immoveable for a length of time, +and its motions are all cautious and slow, continuing to loll out its +tongue, which is long and glutinous, in order to secure the little insects +that are necessary to its nourishment; and I doubt not but it has an +attractive influence over its prey, for I have observed them continually +floating around the cameleon, when scarcely discernible in any other space. +When the tongue is covered with a sufficient quantity it draws it in +instantaneously, and by incessantly repeating the operation, all the +insects within its reach are taken in the snare. + +That its health and existence depend upon being in the grass, I am +persuaded, from the change occasioned by placing it in gravel or sand, when +it immediately assumes a yellow tinge, its form is reduced considerably, +and the air expelled, with which the body of this animal is inflated, so as +visibly to reduce the size. If they are irritated in this situation, they +expell the air so strong as even to be heard, gradually decreasing in size, +and becoming more dull in colour, until at length they are almost black; +but upon being carried into the grass, or placed on the branches of a tree, +they quickly assume their wonted solidity and appearance. + +The victims of my observation I have frequently wrapped in cloth of various +colours, and have left them for a considerable time, but when I visited +them I did not find that they partook of any of the colours, but uniformly +were of a tarnished yellow, or greyish black, the colours they always +assume when in a state of suffering and distress, and I never could succeed +in making them take any other when in a situation of constraint. The skin +of the cameleon is of a very soft and delicate texture, and appears to the +observer similar to a shagreen skin, elastic and pliable; and it may be +owing to this extraordinary construction that it changes its colours and +size with that facility which astonishes us; but what may be considered as +a more wonderful faculty is, its expanding and contracting itself at +pleasure, and, as it were, retaining the fluid in an uniform manner, when +in health, but exhaling it when in a state of suffering, so as to reduce +its dimensions to a more contracted size. Its peculiar organization is +such, that the atmospheric air which it inhales so generally throughout +every part of its body, distends and projects even its eyes and +extremities. I have frequently seen it after many days fasting become +suddenly plump, and continue so for a fortnight, when immediately it became +nothing but a skeleton of skin and bone. + +The tenuity of its body is at these seasons astonishing, the spine of its +back becomes pointed, the flesh of its sides adhere to each other, and +apparently form one united subsance, when it will, in a few hours, at +pleasure, resume its rotund state; and this appears to me to be a most +extraordinary circumstance in the construction of this animal, which +invites the minutest research of the naturalist. + +To convince myself how far the assertion might be admitted, that the +cameleon can exist upon air, I have placed them in a cage, so constructed, +as to exclude any thing else, even the minutest insect; when I have visited +my captives, they have opened their mouths and expelled the air towards me +so as to be felt and heard. In the first stage of their privation and +imprisonment, which has continued for more than a month, I have found them +in continual motion around their prison, but afterwards their excursions +became more circumscribed, and they have sunk to the bottom, when their +powers of distension and contraction became languid and decreased, and were +never again capable of performing their accustomed transformation. The one +which I brought to England preserved in spirits, after undergoing upwards +of two months of famine, when I carried it among the grass, or placed it in +the thick foliage of a tree, in little more than a week regained its green +colour, and power of expansion; but not contented with my experiment, and +determined to ascertain it to the utmost, I redoubled my precautions to +exclude every thing but air, and my devoted victim was doomed to another +series of trial, and continued to exist upwards of a month, when it fell a +sacrifice to my curiosity. + +The eyes of the cameleon may also be considered a remarkable singularity; +they are covered with a thin membrane, which nature has given it to supply +the want of eye-lids, and this membrane is sunk in the centre by a +lengthened hole, which forms an orifice, bordered by a shining circle. This +covering follows all the motions of the eye so perfectly, that they appear +to be one and the same; and the aperture, or lengthened hole, is always +central to the pupil, the eyes moving in every direction, independant of +each other; one eye will be in motion while the other is fixed, one looking +behind while the other is looking before, and another directed above while +its companion is fixed on the earth, so that its eyes move in every +possible direction, independant of each other, without moving the head, +which is closely compacted with the shoulders. + +By these quick evolutions its personal safety is guarded, and it perceives +with quickness the insects and flies, which it is always entrapping by its +glutinous tongue. + +Without doubt, this species of lizard possesses peculiarities well worthy +the attention of naturalists, who only can define them; what I have said I +have observed in my leisure moments, and must be considered as a very +imperfect detail of its natural history. + +SECTION IV. + +_Of the Interment of the Dead._ + +The ceremony of burial upon the Windward Coast of Africa is conducted with +great singularity, solemnity, and extravagant circumstances of condolence. + +The body of the deceased is wrapped up in a cloth, closely sewed around it, +and the head is covered with a white cap of cotton, which is the colour +universally adopted in mourning. The relatives of the deceased bedaub +themselves from head to foot with white clay, upon which they form the most +disgusting figures, while scarcely a leg or an arm exhibits the same +feature. I have even seen serpents and other frightful animals delineated +with great accuracy on many parts of the body, which gives them a most +hideous appearance during the season of mourning. + +When the corps has been washed, and put into a white cloth of cotton, of +the manufacture of the country, the whole is inclosed in a mat, and laid +out in state. + +The corps is placed over the grave upon four sticks across, and after one +of the nearest relatives has collected all the finery with which the +deceased was accustomed to decorate himself, and that also which remains +among his family, he asks him, with expressions of sorrow, if he wants such +and such an article for his comfort in the other world, in which he is +accompanied by the remainder of his family and friends, who join in _making +cry,_ or more property speaking, in dancing and rejoicing. The following +night the dance and song is continued with demonstrations of mirth and +glee, and are kept up every successive night during that moon; and if the +deceased has been of consequence in his tribe, these extravagant acts of +lamentation continue for months together. + +_On the Amusements, Musical Instruments, &c. of the Africans._ + +Upon all occasions of mirth or sorrow, the dance is uniformly introduced, +with monotonous songs, sometimes tender and agreeable, at other times +savage and ferocious, but always accompanied by a slow movement; and it may +with propriety be said, that all the nights in Africa are spent in dancing; +for after the setting of the sun, every village resounds with songs, and +music; and I have often listened to them with attention and pleasure, +during the tranquil evenings of the dry season. + +Villages a league distant from each other frequently perform the same song, +and alternately change it, for hours together. While this harmonic +correspondence continues, and the inhabitants of the neighbouring villages +chaunt their couplets, the youth of both sexes listen with the greatest +attention and pleasure. + +Among the several kinds of instruments of music which accompany the +ceremonies of mourning or mirth among the Africans, the drum is the +principal. It is made from a hard thin wood, about three feet long, which +is covered with a skin distended to the utmost. They strike it with the +fingers of the right hand collected together, which serves to beat time in +all their dances. Among the Foulahs and Soosees they have a kind of flute, +made of a hard reed, which produces sounds both unmusical and harsh: but +all the Africans of the Windward district are the most barbarous musicians +that can be conceived. + +They have also a kind of guitar, formed from the calabash, which they call +_kilara_. Some of these are of an enormous size, and the musician performs +upon it by placing himself on the ground, and putting the _kilara_ between +his thighs; he performs on it with both his hands, in a manner similar to +the playing on the harp in this country. + +They have another instrument of a very complicated construction, about two +feet deep, four feet long, and eighteen inches wide, which they call +_balafau_. It is constructed by parallel intervals, covered with bits of +hard polished wood, so as to give each a different tone, and are connected +by cords of catgut fastened at each extremity of the instrument. The +musician strikes these pieces of wood with knobbed sticks covered with +skin, which produces a most detestable jargon of confused noise. + +Jugglers and buffoons are very common, and are the constant attendants of +the courts of Negro kings and princes, upon whom they lavish the most +extravagant eulogiums, and abject flattery. These jesters are also the +panders of concupiscense; they are astrologers, musicians, and poets, and +are well received every where, and live by public contribution. + +SECTION V. + +_Concluding Observations._ + +It has already been observed that cotton and indigo are indigenous to the +Windward Coast of Africa. Tobacco grows in every direction, likewise cocoa, +coffee, and aromatic plants would no doubt succeed by cultivation. A trade +in raw hides might be carried on to a great extent; and the articles of +wax, gold, ivory, emery, dyes, &c. might be greatly increased. Substances +for making soap are to be found in great abundance; cattle, poultry, +different kinds of game, fish, and various animals, fruits, and roots, +abound, affording a great variety of the necessaries and luxuries of life: +and European art and industry are only wanting to introduce the extensive +culture of the sugar cane. The warmth and nature of the climate are +peculiarly adapted to the maturing this plant, and there are many +situations from Cape Verde to Cape Palmas, where this valuable production +might undoubtedly be raised to great amount and perfection. + +In addition to the woods I have already named, there are many others for +building, viz. _todso, worsmore,_ and a fine yellow wood, called +_barzilla_, the _black_ and the _white mangrove_, boxwood of a superior +quality, _conta_, a remarkable fine wood for building, and various kinds of +mahogany, of a beautiful colour, and large dimensions. + +It has also been observed in the previous section, that one of the musical +instruments used by the Africans of the Windward Coast, named by them +_kilara_, is formed from the calabash, a pumpkin which grows from the size +of a goblet to that of a moderate sized tub, and serves every purpose +almost of household utensils. + +They divide this pumpkin into two hemispheres, with the utmost accuracy, +and it is excavated by pouring boiling water inside, to soften the pulp. +The inside is cleaned with great neatness, and they execute upon the +outside various designs and paintings, both fanciful and eccentric, such as +birds, beasts, serpents, alligators, &c. + +In fine, the objects of commerce and enjoyment in this country are, +comparatively speaking, inexhaustible; and this is a part of the world +which England has hitherto strangely neglected, because its mysteries are +unknown. It only requires the happy influence of civilization, agriculture, +and natural commerce, to surprize and enrich those, who humanely and wisely +interfere to procure these blessings to its inhabitants. + +The system of establishment to attain these important ends to our commerce, +and to the bewildered African, should be skilfully planned, and wisely +adapted to the _present condition_ of the country, for the _hasty +conclusion of the abolition of the slave trade never can, in its present +state, meet the views and objects of rational humanity_. Is the United +Kingdom, at this crisis, when the enormous power of our adversary has shut +the door of commerce against us in every direction where his influence and +dictates command, to abandon Africa, so abundant and versatile in its +natural productions and resources, to contingencies, and to the grasp of +other nations? Forbid it, humanity, and forbid it, wise policy! Let civil +laws, religion, and morality, exercise their influence in behalf of the +Negro race, whom barbarism has subjected to our dominion, and let the +beneficence and wisdom of Government devise a system of agriculture and +commercial operation, upon the maritime situations of Africa, as the most +effectual means to freedom of intercourse with its interior. + +The operations of impracticable theories and misguided zeal have +accomplished an unqualified abolition of the slave trade, which I am +persuaded will be highly injurious to the commercial and manufacturing +interests of our country; and is a measure which humanity will have deeply +to deplore, while in its tendency it is pernicious to the African, and +auspicious to the views of France. + +Without doubt the ability and energies of the _present administration_ will +be directed to avert these calamities; and amidst the _important +diliberations_ which now occupy their attention, the condition of Africa, +the wealth derivable from so important a quarter of the earth, and the +relations involved with it, will not be overlooked by them. + + + A VOCABULARY + OF THE + LANGUAGE OF THE PRINCIPAL NATIONS OF THE + WINDWARD COAST OF AFRICA. + + + + +|ENGLISH |JOLLIFF |SOOSEE |TIMMANEE +|------------|-------------------|--------------------|---------------- +|One |Ben |Kiring |Pen +|Two |Yar |Faring |Prung +|Three |Niet |Shooking |Tisas +|Four |Nianett |Nari |Pánlee +|Five |Gurum |Shooli |Tomát +|Six |Gurum ben |Shinie |Rókin +|Seven |Gurum yar |Shulifiring |Dayring +|Eight |Gurum Niet |Shulimashukúng |Daysas +|Nine |Gurum Niant |Shulimang |Daynga +|Ten |Fue |Fooang |Tofot +|Twenty |Nill |Mahwinia |Tofot Marung +|Thirty |Fanever |Tongashukúng |Tofot Masas +|Forty |Nianett Fue |Tonganani |Tofot Manlu +|Fifty |Guaum Fue |Tongashulang |Tofot Tomat +|Sixty |Gurum ben Fue |Tongashini |Tofot Rokin +|Seventy |Gurum yar Fue |Tongashulifiring |Tofot Dayring +|Eighty |Gurum Niet Fue |Tongashulimashakung |Tofot Daysas +|Ninety |Gurum Nianet Fue |Tongashulimanáne |Tofot Danygah +|One Hundred |Temer |Kimé |Tofot Tofot +|I | |Emtang |Eto or Munga +|Thou | |Etang |Moota or Moonga +|He | |Atang |Otto or Ken +|It | |Atang |Ree +|We | |Mackutang |Sitta or Shang +|Ye | |Wotang |Angsha +|They | |Etang |Angna +|God |Tallah | | +|The Devil |Ghiné | | +|Heaven |Assaman | | + + + + + +|ENGLISH |JOLLIFF |SOOSEE |MANDINGO +|------------|--------------------|---------------|------------------ +|The Sun |Burham Safara |Shuge |Teelee +|The Moon |Burham Safara Lion |Kige |Koro +|Gold |Ourous | |Sanoo +|Father |Bail |Taffe |Fa +|My Father |Samma Bail | | +|Mother |De |Inga |Ba +|My Mother |Samma De | | +|Man |Gour | |Mo or Fato +|Woman |Diguén | |Mooséa +|Brother |Rak Gour |Tarakunjia |Ba Ding Kea +|My Brother |Samma Rak Gour | | +|Sister |Rak Diguén |Magine |Ba Ding Mooséa +|My Sister |Samma Rak Diguén | | +|Head |Bop |Hung Hungji |Roon +|My Head |Samma Bop | | +|Tongue |Lamin |Ning Ningje |Ning +|Mouth |Guémin |Dé |Da +|Nose |Bauane |Nieue |Nung +|Bread |Bourou | |Munko +|Water |Dock | |Gee +|Teeth |Guené | | +|Bowels |Bouthet | | +|Belly |Birr | |Kono +|Fingers |Baram | |Boalla Ronding +|Arm |Lokoó | |Boalla Same for hand. +|Hair |Cayor | | +|The Beard |Jekim |Habe de Habe |Bora +|White |Toulha é |Fihe |Qui +|Black |Jolof |Foro |Fing +|Good |Bachna |Fang |Bettie +|Bad |Bahout |Niaake |Jox + + + + + +|ENGLISH |SOOSEE +|-------------------------------------|------------------------ +|Elephant |Siti +|Camelion |Kolungji +|Horse |Shuoe +|Cow |Ninkgegine +|Goat |Shee +|Sheep |Juké +|Leopard |Shuko she +|Alligator |Shonge +|Parrot |Kalle +|Shark |Sark +|Honey |Kume +|White ant, termite, &c. |Bugabuge +|(or Bug a bug) | +|The Sea |Baa +|Earth |Bohe +|Knife |Finé +|Shirt |Doma +|Trowsers |Wangtanji +|Brass pan |Tang kue +|House |Bankhi +|Door |Dé nadé +|Day |Hi +|Night |Qué +|Health |Maié langfe +|Sickness |Fura +|Pain |Whondi, Whona fe +|Love |Whuli +|Hatred |Niaahú +|Road |Kirá +|Idle |Kobi +|Hot |Furi, furihe +|Cold |Himbeli +|What are you doing? |Emung she ra falama? +|Tornado |Tuliakbegle +|Which way are you going? |Esigama mung kirara +|To trade |Sera Shofe +|Make haste |Arâ bafe mafurì +|To Kill |Fuka fe +|To Quarrel |Gerì shofe +|To Sing |Shige sháfe +|To beat the drum |Fare mokafé +|Have you done? |Ebanta gei? +|Are you afraid? |Egahama? +|He is not yet gone |A mú siga sending +|Stand still |Tife ira hara +|Run |Gee fé +|Leap, or Jump |Tubang fe +|Have you slept well? |Eheo keefang? +|Do you understand Soosee? |Esusee whi mema? +|I am hungry |Kaame em shukuma +|Eat |Dong +|Let us go |Woem hasiga +|Will you go with me? |Esigáma em fokhera +|I have no money |Náfuli muna embe +|How much do you want? |E' wama ierekong +|Sit down |Dokha +|How do you do |E'mung keé? +|Very well |Em melang hekeefang +|Give me some rice? |Málungdundundifeemma +|Here |Be +|What is your name? |Ehili mungkee? +|I love you |Efanghe emma +|If you want rice I will give you some|Ha ewama málunghong eminda fuma éma +|Let us go together. |Meekufiring ha siga + + + + + +|ENGLISH |JOLLIFF +|----------------------------|----------------------- +|Goat |Phas +|Sheep |Zedre +|Wolf |Bouki +|Elephant |Guìé +|Ox |Nack +|Fish |Guienn +|Horse |Ghénapp +|Butter |Dión +|Milk |Sán +|Tiger |Shaglé +|Iron |Vina +|Millet |Doughoul +|Quiver |Smagalla +|To dance |Faik +|To sing |Ouhai +|To-day |Thei +|To-morrow |Elleck, or Mek +|Yesterday |Demb +|A tree |Garallun +|To drink |Nán +|To eat |Leck ou leckamm +|She is remarkably handsome |Sama rafitnalóll +|Good day |Dhiarakio +|Good day Sir |Dhiarakio-Samba +|Good night |Fhanandiam +|Come here? |Kahihfie +|Yes |Ouaa +|No |Dhiett +|How do you do? |Dhya mésa? +|Very well |Dhya medal +|Buy |Ghuyendé +|Sell |Ghuyal +|Take |Diapol +|I will |Benguéna +|I thank you |Guérum nalá +|A bar of Iron |Baravin +|What did you say? |Loung a houche +|Can you speak Joliff? |Dígenga Jolliff +|How much did that cost? |Niatar ladiar? +|Give me |Maniman +|I love you from my heart |Sépenata tié somo koll + + + + + +|ENGLISH |TEMMANEE |BULLOM +|-----------------------|------------------------|---------------- +|How do you do? |Currea |Lemmoó +|I return you service, |Bá |Bá +|or salute | | +|Are you well? |Too pay |Appay wa? +|Very well |Tai ó tai |Pay chin lin +|What is your name? |Gnay see mooa? |Illil é móa? +|Give me a little rice |Song mee pilla pittun |Knamée opillay +| | |otayk +|Yes |A |A +|No |Deh |Be +|Is your father at home?|Pa ka moo oyá roshaytee?|Appa moway lore +| | |ko killayée +|He is |Oéeree |Way lorre +|What do you want? |Ko nyaymaee? |Yeng yayma? +|Why do you do so? |Ko sum kingyotteeay |Yaywum layngalla +|I beg your pardon |A marree moo |Lum marra mó + + + + + +|ENGLISH |TEMMANEK |BULLOM +|--------------------|--------------------|----------------------- +|I love you |Ee bóter moo |A marra mo +|Let me alone |Tuoy mee |Y'nfolmee +|Let me go |Teer amee |Y'mmelmee +|Sit down |Yeera |Y'nchal +|I am hungry |Durabang mee |Nrik mi a me +|Shut the door |Kanta kayraree |Ingkunta fong fólootay +|Will you go with me?|Yintoo kó pey a mee?|Mo mee ko day ree +|Where are you going?|Ray mó kóay. |Lomo koa +|Here |Unno |Kakée or ha +|Forward |Kihdee |Ebol +|Backward |Rarung |Wayling +|To-day |Taynung |Eenang +|To-morrow |Anéenang |Beng +|Sometimes |Olokko ollon |Lokkó poom +|And |Ray |Na +|Good bye |Mang peearó |Heepeeáró + + + +** The foregoing Vocabulary, and imperfect number of words, may serve to +give some idea of a part of the languages on the Windward Coast of Africa. +From those accidents to which the traveller is continually exposed, I have +unfortunately lost what I am persuaded was a very accurate vocabulary of +the Jolliff, Foulah, Maudingo, Soosee, Bullom, and Temmanee tongues, which +I had arranged under the correction of a very intelligent trader long +resident upon the Windward Coast. Owing to this misfortune I have been +obliged to refer to scattered memoranda only, which I know to correspond +correctly with the document I allude to. As the Foulah and Mandingo nations +are of most consequence in attempts at civilization, I have to regret +exceedingly that I have not been able to give the languages of those +nations more at large. + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Observations Upon The Windward Coast +Of Africa, by Joseph Corry + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE WINDWARD COAST OF AFRICA *** + +***** This file should be named 12539-8.txt or 12539-8.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/1/2/5/3/12539/ + +Produced by Carlo Traverso, Willy De la Court and Distributed +Proofreaders Europe, http://dp.rastko.net. This file was produced +from images generously made available by the Bibliotheque nationale +de France (BnF/Gallica) at http://gallica.bnf.fr. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Observations Upon The Windward Coast Of Africa + +Author: Joseph Corry + +Release Date: June 6, 2004 [EBook #12539] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE WINDWARD COAST OF AFRICA *** + + + + +Produced by Carlo Traverso, Willy De la Court and Distributed +Proofreaders Europe, http://dp.rastko.net. This file was produced +from images generously made available by the Bibliotheque nationale +de France (BnF/Gallica) at http://gallica.bnf.fr. Willy De la Court + + + + + + +</pre> + + + +<h1>Observations upon the windward coast of Africa</h1> + +<h2>by JOSEPH CORRY.</h2> + + +<center> +<a href=images/001.jpg><img border=0 alt=001 +src=images/001_th.jpg></a><br>[Illustration: A MANDINGO CHIEF, and his +HEADMAN, in their COSTUME, & other NATIVES] +</center> + + +<center><br> +OBSERVATIONS<br> +UPON THE<br> +WINDWARD COAST OF AFRICA,<br> +THE<br> +RELIGION, CHARACTER, CUSTOMS, &c.<br> +OF THE NATIVES;<br> +WITH A<br> +SYSTEM UPON WHICH THEY MAY BE CIVILIZED,<br> +AND A<br> +KNOWLEDGE ATTAINED OF THE INTERIOR OF THIS EXTRAORDINARY<br> +QUARTER OF THE GLOBE;<br> +AND UPON<br> +THE NATURAL AND COMMERCIAL RESOURCES OF THE COUNTRY;<br> +MADE IN THE YEARS 1805 AND 1806.<br> +<br> +BY JOSEPH CORRY.<br> +<br> +WITH AN APPENDIX,<br> +CONTAINING<br> +A LETTER TO LORD HOWICK, ON THE MOST SIMPLE AND EFFECTUAL<br> +MEANS OF ABOLISHING THE SLAVE TRADE.<br> +</center><br> + +<center><br> +LONDON:<br> +PRINTED FOR G. AND W. NICOL, BOOKSELLERS TO HIS MAJESTY, PALL-MALL;<br> +AND JAMES ASPERNE, CORNHILL.<br> +BY W. BULMER AND CO. CLEVELAND ROW, ST. JAMES'S<br> +1807.<br> +</center><br> +<hr> + +<center><br> +TO<br> +THE RIGHT HONOURABLE<br> +LORD VISCOUNT CASTLEREAGH,<br> +ONE OF HIS MAJESTY'S PRINCIPAL SECRETARIES<br> +OF STATE FOR FOREIGN AFFAIRS.<br> +</center><br> + +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">MY LORD,</span><br> + +<p>Hightly flattered by your Lordship's polite condescension, in permitting +me to inscribe to you the following Pages, I return your Lordship my most +unfeigned thanks.</p> + +<p>If they meet your Lordship's approbation, and that of a discerning +Public; or if they tend in the most remote degree to excite more +intelligent efforts and more active enterprise on behalf of the +unenlightened African, or to augment the Commerce of the United Kingdom +with a Country, now in danger of falling into the hands of our Enemies, I +shall feel an ample reward for the risques and dangers to which I have been +exposed in collecting these Fragments; while the occasion gives me the +opportunity of subscribing myself,</p> + +<center><br> +With grateful acknowledgments,<br> +Your Lordship's<br> +Most obedient, and devoted humble Servant,<br> +</center><br> + +<span style="margin-left: 20em;">JOSEPH CORRY,</span><br> +<hr> +<H2><a name=PREFACE>PREFACE.</a></H2> + +<p>With becoming deference, I shall endeavour to illustrate in the +following pages, the observations I have personally made upon the Coast of +Africa, and to give the information I have obtained from an extended circle +of Chiefs, and native Tribes, relative to its Inhabitants, their Religion, +Habits and Customs, the natural productions and commercial resources, &c. +and attempt to delineate the most eligible grounds upon which the condition +of the African may be effectually improved, and our commercial relations be +preserved with that important quarter of the globe.</p> + +<p>Though deeply impressed with the importance of the subject, and my own +incompetency, I obtrude myself upon Public notice, governed by this +reflection, that I am stimulated by an ardent zeal for the prosperity of my +Country, and am animated by a philanthropic solicitude for the effectual +manumission of the African, from his enslaved customs, his superstitious +idolatry, and for the enlargement of his intellectual powers.</p> + +<p>I shall guard against the sacrifice of truth to abstracted principles; +and if in the most remote degree, I excite the interference of my +countrymen in behalf of the African, extend our commerce, and enlarge the +circle of civilized and Christian Society, I shall think that I have +neither travelled, nor written in vain.</p> + +<p>Africa is a country hitherto but little known; those in general who have +visited it, have been either inadequate to research, or have been absorbed +in the immediate attainment of gain; moreover the European Traveller in +that country has to contend with the combined influence of the native +jealousies of its inhabitants, their hereditary barbarism, obstinate +ferocity, and above all, an uncongenial climate. To surmount these +difficulties, commerce is the most certain medium to inspire its Chiefs and +Natives with confidence, and to obtain a facility of intercourse with the +Interior country. Sanctioned by that pursuit, I have been favoured with +information from a large circle of Native Chiefs, and Tribes, relative to +their customs, their habits, localities, predilections, and the existing +state of society.</p> + +<p>The impressions, which ocular demonstration, and personal investigation +occasion upon visiting this uncultivated country, are so different from +those excited in any other district of the globe, and so powerful, that the +mind is naturally led to meditation on the means of its improvement and on +the mode by which it may be ameliorated, and the sources of commerce be +essentially enlarged.</p> + +<p>Europe, which merits the highest rank for philanthropy, has hitherto +strangely neglected this country; nor have the attempts of individuals and +benevolent Societies been productive in endeavouring to diffuse the +influence of civilization, and to desseminate the seeds of science +throughout these extensive regions.</p> + +<p>Trusting that my endeavours to befriend the Natives of Africa, and to +extend the Commerce of my Country, will shield me from the severity of +animadversion, and of criticism, I shall proceed in my relation.</p> + +<span style="margin-left: 20em;">J. CORRY.</span><br> +<i>September 1st, 1807</i>.<br> + +<hr> +<H2><a name=CONTENTS>CONTENTS.</a></H2> + +<p><a href="#CHAPTER_I">CHAPTER I.</a></p> + +<p>Remarks from the Period of Embarkation at St. Helen's, till the Arrival +at Sierra Leone—Sketches of the Land seen in the Passage—its Bearings and +Distance—Observations upon the Bay and Entrance of Sierra Leone River, +&c.</p> + +<p><a href="#CHAPTER_II">CHAPTER II.</a></p> + +<p>The Author leaves Bance Island.—Visits the Colony of Sierra +Leone.—Delivers his introductory Letter to the late Governor Day, from +whom he experiences a most hospitable Reception.—Cursory Remarks upon that +Colony, and upon the Islands of Banana.—His Embarkation for the Island of +Goree, &c.</p> + +<p><a href="#CHAPTER_III">CHAPTER III.</a></p> + +<p>An Excursion to the main Land.—Visit to King Marraboo.—Anecdotes of +this Chief.—Another Excursion, accompanied by Mr. Hamilton.—A shooting +Party, acccompanied by Marraboo's Son, Alexander, and other +Chiefs.—Reflections upon Information obtained from them, and at Goree, +relative to this Part of the Coast.—Embark in his Majesty's Sloop of War +the Eugenia, which convoyed Mr. Mungo Park in the Brig Crescent, to the +River Gambia, on his late Mission to the Interior of Africa.—Observations +on that Subject.—Arrive in Porto Praya Bay, in the Island of St. +Jago.—Some Remarks upon that Island.—Departure from thence to England, +and safe Arrival at Portsmouth</p> + +<p><a href="#CHAPTER_IV">CHAPTER IV.</a></p> + +<p>The Author proceeds to London.—Re-embarks for Africa.—Arrives at +Madeira.—Observations on that Island.—Prosecution of the Voyage, and +Arrival in the Sierra Leone River, &c.</p> + +<p><a href="#CHAPTER_V">CHAPTER V.</a></p> + +<p>Observations upon the natural Productions of the River Sierra +Leone.—The Author explores its Branches, interior to Bance Island, the +Rochelle, and the Port Logo.—The Manners and Customs of the +Inhabitants.—Their Commerce.—The Author's safe Arrival at Miffare</p> + +<p><a href="#CHAPTER_VI">CHAPTER VI.</a></p> + +<p>Return to Bance Island.—General Observations on the Commerce, Religion, +Customs, and Character of the Natives upon the Windward Coast.—An Account +of the requisite Merchandize for Trade, the best Mode of introducing +natural Commerce and Civilization into Africa, &c.</p> + +<p><a href="#CHAPTER_VII">CHAPTER VII.</a></p> + +<p>The Mode of Trial by <i>Ordeal</i> and <i>Red Water</i> in Africa.—The +Wars of its Inhabitants.—The State of Barbarism and Slavery +considered.—The Condition of the Africans will not be improved by a late +Legislative Act, without further Interference.—Salutary Measures must be +adopted towards the Negroes in the Colonies.—A System suggested to abolish +Slavery in Africa, and the Slave Trade in general, and to enlarge the +intellectual Powers of its Inhabitants.—The proper Positions to effect an +Opening to the Interior of Africa, and to display to the World its manifold +Resources</p> + +<p><a href="#CHAPTER_VIII">CHAPTER VIII.</a></p> + +<p>What the Anthor conceives should be the System of Establishment to make +effectual the Operations from Cape Verd to Cape Palmas.—Reasons for +subjecting the Whole to one Superior and controlling Administration.—The +Situations, in his Estimation, where principal Depots may be established, +and auxiliary Factories may be placed, &c. &c.</p> + +<p><a href="#CHAPTER_IX">CHAPTER IX.</a></p> + +<p>The Author embarks in the Ship Minerva.—Proceeds to the Rio +Pongo.—Disquisitions thereon.—Further Observations on the Inhabitants, +obtained from Natives of various Nations met with there.—The Isles de +Loss.—Returns to Sierra Leone, &c.</p> + +<p><a href="#CHAPTER_X">CHAPTER X.</a></p> + +<p>The Author visits the Isles de Loss.—Remarks on those Islands.—Touches +at the River Scarcies.—Arrives at the Colony of Sierra Leone.—Embarks for +the West Indies—Lands at the Colony of Demerary.—Some Observations on the +Productions of that Colony, Berbice, and Essequibo, and on the Importance +of Dutch Guiana to the United Kingdom in a political and commercial +View</p> + +<p><a href="#CHAPTER_XI">CHAPTER XI.</a></p> + +<p>Conclusion</p> + +<p><a href="#APPENDIX">APPENDIX.</a></p> + +<p><a href="#No_I">No. I.</a></p> + +<p>Letter to the Right Honourable Lord Viscount Howick, His Majesty's late +principal Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs, on the Eve of his +Lordship introducing the late Bill into Parliament for the Abolition of the +Slave Trade; shewing at one View the most simple and ready Mode of +gradually and effectually abolishing the Slave Trade, and eradicating +Slavery</p> + +<p><a href="#No_II">No. II.</a></p> + +<p>Letter to the Right Honourable the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, +referred to in the foregoing Letter to Lord Howick</p> + +<p><a href="#No_III">No. III.</a></p> + +<p>Of the Purrah</p> + +<p>Of the <i>Termite</i>, <i>Termes</i>, or <i>Bug a Bug</i>, as it is +called by the Natives upon the Windward Coast of Africa</p> + +<p>Of the Camelion</p> + +<p>On the Interment of the Dead</p> + +<p>On the Amusements, Musical Instruments, &c. of the Africans</p> + +<p>Concluding Observations</p> + +<p>Vocabulary of the Languages of the principal Nations of the Windward +Coast of Africa</p> + +<hr> +<H2><a name=DIRECTIONS_TO_THE_BINDER>DIRECTIONS TO THE BINDER.</a></H2> + +<p>Mandingo Chief and his Head Man, with other Natives in their Costume, to +face the Title Page.</p> + +<p>Sketch of the Windward Coast of Africa to face page 1</p> + +<p>Palma</p> + +<p>The Colony of Sierra Leone and Islands of Banana</p> + +<p>Island of Goree</p> + +<p>Porto Praya, Island of St. Jago</p> + +<p>Island of Fogo, Cape Verd</p> + +<p>Island of St. Jago, and Paps of Cape Verd</p> + +<p>Bance Island, River Sierra Leone</p> + +<p>In illustration of the above Plates, it may be satisfactory to the +Reader to explain that the Turban, in the Frontispiece, distinguishes the +<i>Mandingo Chief</i>; and that the Cap, which adorns the <i>Head Man</i>, +is embroidered by <i>themselves</i> on scarlet cloth procured from +Europeans in trade, and is executed with great ingenuity.</p> + +<p>The narrow stripe of blue cloth suspended behind from the covering which +adorns one of the figures in the back ground, distinguishes a female in the +state of virginity.</p> + +<p>This distinguishing mark of <i>virgin purity</i> is uniformly removed +upon entering into the matrimonial state, and is called by the Timmauees +<i>Tintanjey</i>.</p> + +<p>In the Plate of Bance Island, River Sierra Leone, page 33, is a correct +representation of the <i>Pullam</i> tree, described in page 38, as bearing +a species of silk cotton, or ether down, and is much revered by the +natives, who consider it in many instances as their <i>Fetish</i>.</p> + + +<p>* * * * *</p> + + +<hr> +<H2><a name=ERRATA>ERRATA.</a></H2> +<br> + +<table> +<tr><td>Page 54,</td><td>line 8,</td><td>for <i>gallunas</i> read <i>galhinas</i>.</td></tr> +<tr><td>62</td><td>2,</td><td>for <i>is derived from the African gris-gris</i>, read,</td></tr> +<tr><td></td><td></td><td><i>is the expression from which the African gris-gris is</i></td></tr> +<tr><td></td><td></td><td><i>derived</i>.</td></tr> +<tr><td>64</td><td>20,</td><td>for <i>lugras</i>, read <i>lugars</i>.</td></tr> +<tr><td>92</td><td>6,</td><td>for <i>bungra</i>, read <i>bangra</i>.</td></tr> +</table> + + +<hr> + +<center> +<a href=images/014.png><img border=0 alt=014 +src=images/014_th.jpg></a><br>[Illustration: SKETCH OF THE WINDWARD COAST +OF AFRICA] +</center> + +<hr> + +<center><br> +OBSERVATIONS<br> +UPON THE<br> +WINDWARD COAST OF AFRICA.<br> +</center><br> + + + +<hr> +<H1><a name=CHAPTER_I>CHAPTER I.</a></H1> + + + + +<p><i>Remarks from the Period of my Embarkation at St. Helens, to my +arrival at Sierra Leone—Sketches of the Land discovered in the +Passage—its Bearings and Distance—with Observations upon the Bay and +Entrance of Sierra Leone River, &c.</i></p> + +<p>Previous to my arrival and landing in the river Sierra Leone, on the 6th +of April, 1805, I shall notice my passage, and display the sketches I have +taken of the land we fell in with, its bearings and distance, for the +observation of the mariner, which from position and prominence to the +Atlantic, claim his most serious attention in running down the coast of +Africa to-windward.<a name="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1"><sup>[1]</sup></a></p> + +<p>On the 9th March, 1805, I sailed from St. Helens in the ship Thames, +commanded by James Welsh, in company with a fleet of ships bound to the +East Indies, under convoy of his Majesty's ship Indostan. We had a +favourable run down Channel; but, after making to the westward of Scilly, +a heavy gale of wind separated the Thames from the convoy, which we never +afterwards regained, and were therefore obliged, at all hazards, to +proceed for our destination upon the coast of Africa.</p> + +<p>Nothing interesting occurred during a prosperous and quick passage, +until the high land of Sierra Leone appeared in view on the evening of the +5th of April. We came to an anchor outside the Capes, and weighed the next +morning, steering our course for the river.</p> + +<p>The space between Leopard's Island, situated to the north, and Cape +Sierra Leone to the south, forms the entrance into the river Sierra Leone; +being in latitude 8° 30" N. and in 13° 43" W. long. and is computed about +seven geographical leagues distant. The river empties itself immediately +into the ocean; and its level banks to the north are covered with +impervious forests, while those to the south exhibit the romantic scenery +of an extended chain of lofty mountains and hills, clothed and ornamented +with foliage of the most luxuriant nature, exciting the highest admiration +in those who are susceptible of the impressions which the sublime works of +the creation never fail to inspire.</p> + +<p>Upon entering the bay, the eye is attracted by an extensive river, +circumscribed by the foregoing outline, and exhibiting upon its banks an +assemblage of the productions of nature, vegetating in their native purity. +This view is animated by the prospect of the colony of Sierra Leone, and +the masts of vessels and craft which commerce, and a safe anchorage, +encourage to assemble before it, and by numerous natives paddling with +great dexterity in their canoes.</p> +<br> + +<center> +<a href=images/017.jpg><img border=0 alt=017 +src=images/017_th.jpg></a><br>[Illustration: PALMA bearing S. by W. distant +about 8 leagues from A Published Aug 1 1807 by G & W Nicol] +</center> + + +<p>As I shall have occasion to speak hereafter of the importance of this +bay in a commercial and agricultural point of view, I shall not at present +enter into farther details; but only suggest that I consider it as a +position from whence active enterprize may perform its operations +throughout an extensive district, and derive the most important +advantages.</p> + +<p>At two. P.M. came to an anchor before the fort and settlement of Bance +Island, which we saluted with seven guns. The river is navigable up to this +island for ships, and small craft proceed a number of miles higher, on the +branches of the Port Logo and Rochell. It is obscured from the view by the +island of Tasso, until bearing round a point of that island called Tasso +Point; the eye is then attracted by a regular fortification, and even an +elegant range of buildings and store-houses, which, with great propriety, +may be considered as one of the most desirable positions upon the windward +coast of Africa, to command the interior commerce of the countries +bordering upon the river Sierra Leone and its branches, and that of the +rivers to the northward, the Scarcies and adjoining rivers, the Rio Pongo, +with the Isles De Loss, Rio Grande, Rio Noonez, &c. and those which fall +into the sea from Cape Sierra Leone to Cape Palmas.</p> + +<p>Tasso is an island adjoining, about a mile and a half distant, of some +extent, and a remarkably fertile soil. It is attached to Bance Island; +bearing cotton of a very good staple, and is capable of producing any +tropical production. Considerable labour and expense have been applied to +introduce cultivation into this island, and to exemplify to the African the +advantages derivable from his native soil, by the civil arts of life; while +under a still more scientific superintendency, it would become a possession +of very considerable consequence in an agricultural view.</p> + +<p>Bance Island is little more than a barren rock, of about three-quarters +of a mile in extent. The entrance into the fort is through a folding door +or gate, over which, throughout the night, a watch is constantly placed. +The expectations excited by its external appearance were by no means +lessened by a view of the interior of the fort, in which were assembled +several traders, and chiefs, with their attendants. I was much the object +of their curiosity and attention; and in their manner, all came up to me, +to <i>give me service </i>, as expressed in the idiom of their language. +This ceremony is simply performed by touching the fingers, accompanied in +the Timminy language by the usual obeisance of <i>Currea </i>, or, how do +you do? The reply to this is <i>Ba</i>, which means good, I return you +service.</p> + +<p>The Grumittas, or free black people, are assembled outside the fort, in +houses or huts built with mud, upon the general construction in Africa, +which usually is an oblong square, raised little more than eight feet; or a +circle of the same height, over which is thrown a roof of bamboo, or other +thatch, supported by posts about five or six feet asunder, forming a +canopy, which shelters them from the rays of the sun, or the inclemency of +the weather, and affords a shade under which they retire in the extreme +heat of the day, where they repose in their hammocks, or rest upon their +mats. This group of buildings or huts is denominated Adam's Town, from the +black chief who presides over these labouring people. Their numbers may be +estimated at about 600. Originally they were slaves to the proprietors of +this island; but from a very humane and wise policy, they have been endowed +with certain privileges, which rescue them from an absolute state of +slavery, and prevents their being sold as slaves, unless they are convicted +by the laws and customs of their country of some crime or delinquency.</p> + +<p>Among these people are artizans in various branches, viz. smiths, +carpenters, joiners, masons, &c. under the superintendance of Europeans in +their different trades, who for ingenuity and adroitness in their +respective capacities, would deserve the approbation even of the +connoisseur in these arts; while in many other instances they discover a +genius of the most intelligent character, and a decency in their dress and +manners distinguished from that among the surrounding tribes; which is the +never failing consequence of the influence of the arts of civilized society +over barbarous customs and habits.</p> + +<a name="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1">[1]</a><div class="note"><p> Perhaps it will be considered by the reader a singular +phenomenon, that the upper region of <i>Palma</i> was covered with +snow.</p></div> + + + + +<hr> +<H1><a name=CHAPTER_II>CHAPTER II.</a></H1> + + + + +<p><i>The Author leaves Bance Island—Visits the Colony of Sierra +Leone—Delivers his introductory Letter to the late Governor Day, from whom +he experiences a most hospitable Reception—Cursory Remarks upon that +Colony and upon the Islands of Bannana—His Embarkation for the Island of +Goree, &c.</i></p> + +<p>From the 6th to the 8td April, I remained at Bance Island, and having +determined to embark for Europe, where circumstances required me by the +first conveyance, I visited the colony of Sierra Leone, then under the +government of the late Capt. William Day, of the Royal Navy, to whom I had +a recommendatory letter. His reception of me was in conformity with his +general character, distinguished for urbanity and polite hospitality; and +such were the impressions upon my mind, both from observation and report, +of the skill and penetration he possessed to fulfil the arduous duties of +his station, that they never will be effaced, and I shall ever retain the +highest respect for his memory. He was then occupied in forming plans of +defence in the colony; and had he lived, I am firmly persuaded, from +subsequent observation and enquiry, that it would in a short period have +opposed to an enemy a formidable resistance, and that it might have been +speedily rescued from that anarchy and confusion which distracted councils, +and want of unanimity had occasioned.</p> + +<p>The colony of Sierra Leone was established by the 31st of George III. +avowedly in opposition to the Slave Trade, and for the purpose of +augmenting more natural commerce, and introducing civilization among the +natives of Africa. The grant is from the 1st of July, 1791, and to continue +for the space of 31 years. During the late war with France, in September +1794, it was nearly destroyed by a French squadron, consisting of one +two-decker, several armed ships and brigs, in the whole about seven or +eight sail; they appeared in the offing on the evening of the 27th, and in +the morning of the 28th at day-light commenced their operations; the result +of which was, that the colony was ravaged by the enemy, and many houses +burnt and destroyed. This squadron was piloted into the river by two +Americans, one of whom was a Captain Neville. The pecuniary loss to the +colony by this attack has been estimated at about 40,000<i>l</i>. +independant of buildings destroyed, valued at first cost, about +15,000<i>l</i>. more. Bance Island experienced the same fate, and suffered +in pecuniary loss upwards of 20,000<i>l</i>.</p> + +<p>In addition to this calamity, the Sierra Leone Company had to lament the +inefficiency of its superintendants, their want of unanimity, and various +other disasters and unforeseen difficulties which operated to augment the +charge in their establishment, and diminish its funds; and with every +deference to the benevolent undertakers, whose motives merit the highest +approbation of every enlightened mind, I would observe, they have likewise +to regret their misconception of the eligible grounds upon which so +beneficent a plan is to be productive of operative influence; but as at a +future stage of my narrative, I shall be enabled from more minute +investigation to enter at large upon this interesting subject, I shall for +the present dismiss it.</p> + +<p>On the 28th of April I embarked on board his Majesty's sloop of war the +Lark, then upon the windward station; having looked into the river for +Governor Day's dispatches, &c.; and I cannot omit this opportunity of +expressing the obligations conferred upon me by Captain Langford, the +commander, and his officers, which invariably continued during my being on +board. At day-light we weighed, and were saluted by one of the forts with +15 guns, which were returned; nothing of moment occurred during our +passage, except being once overtaken with a tornado: this is a hurricane +which prevails upon the windward coast of Africa about this season of the +year, preceding the rainy season; and it is impossible to convey by +description an adequate idea of this explosion of the elements. It +announces its approach by a small white cloud scarcely discernible, which +with incredible velocity overspreads the atmosphere, and envelopes the +affrighted mariner in a vortex of lightning, thunder, torrents of rain, &c. +exhibiting nature in one universal uproar. It is necessary when this cloud +appears at sea, to take in all sail instantaneously, and bear away right +before the furious assailant, which soon expends its awful and tremendous +violence, and nature is again hushed into peaceful tranquillity.</p> + +<p>To the southward of Cape Sierra Leone, and in about 8 degrees north +latitude, lie the Islands of Bannana, in a direction from east to west. To +the west of Great Bannana, lie the smaller islands, which are little more +than barren rocks. The soil of the Bannanas is very fertile, and the +climate healthy, from their proximity to the sea, and the refreshing +breezes which it bestows upon them. They take their name from a fruit so +denominated; and are situated in the most eligible position for commerce, +upon the Windward Coast; combining, from their fertility of soil and +situation, great agricultural advantages, and peculiar salubrity of air. At +present the sovereignty of these islands is contended for by two chiefs, of +considerable intelligence and enterprise, named Caulker and Cleveland. +Caulker appears to be the legitimate sovereign; Cleveland's forefathers +having been established by Caulker's as <i>trade men</i>, on their account; +and by intermarriage with that family their claims are founded. James +Cleveland, who married king Caulker's sister, first began the war by his +Grummettas, on the Bannanas, attacking Caulker's people on the Plantains, +The result of this violence was, that Charles Caulker was killed in battle; +and his body mangled and cut into pieces, in the most savage and cruel +manner. In 1798, Stephen Caulker, the present chief, commenced war again, +to revenge his brother's death; and the barbarous contest has continued +ever since, marked with ferocious cruelty, and with various success to the +respective claimants. Soon after its renewal, James Cleveland died, and was +succeeded by his nephew, William, who has received his education in +England, and is a chief of no inconsiderable acquirements and talent. +Stephen Caulker has succeeded in obtaining from him the possession of the +Bannanas and Plantains, and at present sways authority over them; still, +however, exposed to the enterprising genius and intrigues of Cleveland. +</p> +<br> + +<center> +<a href=images/024.jpg><img border=0 alt=024 +src=images/024_th.jpg></a><br>[Illustration: THE COLONY of SIERRA LEONE A +bearing S.W. by E. distant 3 MILES, and the BANANAS bearing S.W. by W +distant 3 leagues. Published Aug 1 1807 by G & W Nicol] +</center> + + +<p>Were it practicable to reconcile these contentions, and procure these +valuable islands, they would form most eligible auxiliaries and depots to +any establishment which Government might form upon this part of the coast, +and be of the utmost importance; or in the event of their being +unattainable, factories might be established at Kittim and Boom, both under +Caulker's influence and protection. I have had frequent intercourse with +this chief, and I found him of a very superior understanding, and acute +intellect, to the generality of his countrymen; and if his jealousies could +be allayed by the emollients of superior advantage, his intelligence and +co-operation would much facilitate any operations in this quarter.</p> + +<p>On the 10th of April we arrived at Goree Roads, and came to an anchor +nearly opposite to that part of the island of Goree, called the Point de +Nore, and opening Cape Emanuel, which is by much the most eligible position +in the event of tornados, as a ship may always run in safety to sea, +between the island and the main land.</p> + +<p>Goree is a small island, or barren rock, little more than three quarters +of a mile in length, and a few hundred yards in breadth. Its native +inhabitants are of colour, and a spurious progeny from the French; for whom +they still retain a great predilection. The number of what are called +principal inhabitants, does not exceed 50 males, with their families, +dependants, and slaves; which may in the aggregate amount to frequently +between three and four thousand souls. Their principal trade is in slaves, +of whom they annually export about two thousand, with a small proportion of +dead cargo, chiefly procured from Gambia.</p> + +<p>Religion, of any description, is little practised or understood among +them; although it is evident that Christianity has been introduced into the +island, as there are traces of a catholic chapel and a monastery remaining. +Custom here, as in all the maritime countries of Africa, is the governing +principle of all their actions, added to an avaricious thirst for gain, and +the indulgence of sensual gratification. The ceremony of marriage is too +offensive for delicacy even to reflect upon, much less for me to narrate: +it does not attach to the union any sacred obligation, the bond being +broken at the moment of caprice in either party, or predilection in favour +of any other object. As a preliminary to this disgusting ceremony, a "big +dinner," in their phraseology, and a few presents to the lady, first +obtaining her and her parents' consent, is all that is requisite. When the +happy pair are united, the dependants and slaves of the parties, and their +respective connexions, who are assembled round the buildings or huts, send +forth a most savage yell of exclamation, accompanied by their barbarous +music, gesticulations, and clapping of the hands, in unison with their song +of triumph. This dance is continued with unabating vociferation during the +night, and perhaps for a week, or greater length of time, bearing, however, +due reference to the rank and consequence of the connubial pair.</p> + +<p>The following morning the bride issues forth, with solemn pace and slow, +in grand procession, preceded by her most intimate female associate during +her virgin state, reclining upon her shoulder with both hands; who, in +consequence, is considered as the next matrimonial candidate. They are +immediately surrounded by a concourse of attendants, accompanied by music, +dancing, and other wild expressions of joy; and in a body proceed to visit +her circle of acquaintance and friends, who are always expected to +contribute some offering of congratulation. This ceremony is the concluding +one on the part of the bride; while the dancing and music are continued by +the attendants as long as they can procure any thing either to eat or +drink.</p> +<br> + +<center> +<a href=images/028.jpg><img border=0 alt=028 +src=images/028_th.jpg></a><br>[Illustration: ISLAND OF GOREE Published Aug +1 1807 by G & W Nicol] +</center> + + +<p>In a military point of view, in its present condition, the island of +Goree is far from being a place of strength; but in a commercial, it is of +considerable importance; and, therefore, ought to claim the attention of +Government, if it attaches any consequence towards a commerce with the +coast of Africa. In a military character, its batteries and guns are in an +extremely bad condition; and it is completely a position where a piccaroon +privateer could check every supply from the continent, upon which it +depends for fresh provisions and water, and might carry on hostile +operations without the range of its batteries; which, by consequence, +always exposes this garrison to contingencies and casual supply. In a +commercial consideration, I view it as a possession of the greatest moment; +from its contiguity to the French settlement of the Senegal, and to a large +portion of that valuable district, which they claim and influence; from +whence accurate information may be obtained of their operations; and a +check may issue, to maintain our ascendency to leeward; besides a rallying +point for our outward bound ships, to ascertain the enemy's force upon the +coast; the deviation from a direct course to leeward being very +unimportant: moreover, it might be an eligible depot for the trade of that +infinitely valuable river, the Gambia, which, for variety of natural +productions, is perhaps not to be excelled by any other in the world; only +requiring the hand of industry and intelligence to fertilize and +unfold.</p> + +<p>The garrison of Goree has seldom more than 150 effective men to defend +it, of the royal African regiment, commanded by Major Lloyd;<a name="FNanchor_1_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_2"><sup>[1]</sup></a> and this +force is very fluctuating, from sickness and the diseases of the climate; +in general, however, it is tolerably healthy, and its physical department +is superintended by a gentleman (Doctor Heddle) of very considerable +intelligence and ability in his profession. The hospitality of Major Lloyd, +and the officers of his corps, to their countrymen, is distinguished by +liberality; and during my stay in that island, which was upwards of three +weeks, I have to acknowledge their polite attentions. I was the inmate of +Mr. Hamilton, in the commissariat department, whose peculiar friendship and +kind offices have made a most indelible impression upon my mind.</p> + +<p>The view from the roads, some of the buildings near the shore being of +stone, and upon even an elegant and convenient construction, is calculated +to raise expectation upon approaching it, which is considerably +lessened[**Transcriber's note: "lessoned" must be a typesetting error.] +upon a nearer view; the streets being extremely narrow, and the huts of the +natives huddled together without regularity or system. The inhabitants are +governed in their local customs and capacities by a native mayor, and his +advisers; but, of course, under the control of the commandant of the +garrison; and this privilege is a mere matter of form and courtesy, which a +lenient authority permits.</p> + +<a name="Footnote_1_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_2">[1]</a><div class="note"><p> Now Lieutenant Colonel Lloyd.</p></div> + + + + +<hr> +<H1><a name=CHAPTER_III>CHAPTER III.</a></H1> + + + + +<p><i>An Excursion to the Main Land.—Visit to King Marraboo.—Anecdotes of +this Chief.—Another Excursion, accompanied by Mr. Hamilton.—A shooting +Party, accompanied by Marraboo's Son, Alexander, and other +Chiefs.—Reflections upon Information obtained from them, relative to this +Part of the Coast, and at Goree.—Embark in his Majesty's Sloop of War, the +Eugenie, which convoyed Mr. Mungo Park in the Brig Crescent, to the River +Gambia, on his late Mission to the Interior of Africa.—Observations on +that Subject.—Arrive in Porto Praya Bay, in the Island of St. Jago.—Some +Remarks upon that Island.—Departure from thence to England, and safe +arrival at Portsmouth.</i></p> + + +<p>A few days after the arrival of the Lark at the island of Goree, +accompanied by a party of the officers of that ship, I made an excursion +upon the main land: we set out from the ship early in the morning, for +Decar, the capital of a chief or king, named Marraboo: we arrived before he +had moved abroad, and, after going through winding narrow paths or streets, +we were conducted by one of his people to his palace, a wretched hovel, +built with mud, and thatched with bamboo. In our way to this miserable +habitation of royalty, a confused sound of voices issued forth from almost +every hut we passed, which originated from their inhabitants vociferating +their morning orisons to Allah and Mahomet; their religion being an +heterogeneous system of Mahomedanism, associated with superstitious +idolatry, incantations, and charms.</p> + +<p>We found <i>Marraboo's head men</i> and priests assembled before his +majesty's dwelling <i>to give him service</i>, and to offer him their +morning's salutation. At length he made his appearance, followed by several +of the officers of the palace, carrying skins of wild beasts, and mats, +which upon enquiry, I found to have composed the royal bed, spread out upon +a little hurdle, erected about a foot and a half high, interwoven with +bamboo canes: my attention was much engaged with this novel sight; and I +could not contemplate the venerable old man, surrounded by his chiefs, +without conceiving I beheld one of the patriarchs of old, in their +primaeval state. After his chiefs had paid their obeisance, I presumed, +accompanied by my friends, to approach the royal presence; when he +discovered us among the group, his countenance underwent an entire change, +expressive of reserve and surprise, exclaiming, "What did I want with +Marraboo?" With great humility I replied, "I be Englishman, come from King +George's country, his brother, to give him service." He replied with +quickness, "I be very glad to see you, what service have you brought?" I +was aware of this tax upon my civility, and replied, that "I make him good +service;" which in plain English was, that I shall make you a good present. +He then conversed with more freedom relative to his country, government, +localities, and religion; I suggested to him that "I understood he was a +powerful king, and a great warrior, had many wives and children, that he +ruled over much people, and a fine country, that I hear he get much head, +that he far pass any of his enemies, and that I be very happy to look so +great a king:" or, in other words, that I understood he was a great +general, was very rich, was more wise than all his contemporary chiefs, and +that it gave me much pleasure to pay my respects to so great a prince: but +the former idiom of language is best adapted to convey meaning to the +interpreters of the chiefs of Africa, in whatever tongue it may be spoken; +being that which they use in translation; and when they are addressed in +this phraseology, they convey their ideas with more perspicuity and literal +interpretation. But to return to the dialogue.</p> + +<p>Marraboo.—"I be very glad to look you for that, I have much trouble all +my life—great deal of war—my son some time since killed in battle." This +was accompanied by such a melancholy expression of countenance, that could +not fail to excite my compassion, I therefore avoided touching more on the +subject of his wars; only observing, "that I hear he be too much for all +his enemies, and that he build great wall that keep his town and people +safe."</p> + +<p>Marraboo.—"The king of Darnel's people cannot pass that—they all be +killed—they come there sometimes, but always go back again." My curiosity +was excited to obtain the history of this <i>enchanted wall</i>, which on +my approach to the town, I had discovered to be apparently little more than +three or four feet high, and situated within the verge of their wells of +fresh water, open at several places, and without any defence.</p> + +<p>Upon enquiry, I found that Marraboo had been early in life <i>fetish +man</i>, or high priest, to Damel, king of Cayor, a very powerful chief +bordering upon the Senegal, and that he had artfully contrived to gain over +to his interest a number of adherents, who, in process of time, became +formidable, rebelled against their lawful sovereign, and took possession of +that part of the country towards Cape Verd: to strengthen their position, +Marraboo caused a wall to be erected, commencing from the sea shore, and +extending towards the Cape; which, in the estimation of the natives, and in +consequence of his sacerdotal office, incantations, and charms, was +rendered invulnerable: the hypocritical priest well knew the natural +disposition of his countrymen, and the effect his exorcisms would produce +upon their minds; which operated so effectually, that when his army was +beaten by the powerful Damel, they uniformly retired behind their exorcised +heap of stones, which in a moment stopt their enemy's career, and struck +them with such dread, that they immediately retired to their country, +leaving their impotent enemy in quiet possession of his usurped territory; +whom otherwise they might have annihilated with the greatest facility. +Superstition is a delusion very prevalent in Africa; and its powerful +influence upon the human mind is forcibly illustrated by the foregoing +instance.</p> + +<p>When I enquired of Marraboo the nature of his belief in a supreme being, +his observations were confused and perplexed, having no perspicuous +conception of his attributes or perfections, but an indistinct combination +of incomprehensibility; and to sum up the whole, he remarked, "that he pass +all men, and was not born of woman."</p> + +<p>A few days after the abovementioned visit, I made another excursion to +the main land, accompanied by Mr. Hamilton, and one of the principal +inhabitants of Goree, named Martin. We landed at a small native town, +called after the island, Goree Town. When we came on shore, we were +immediately surrounded by natives, who surveyed us with great curiosity and +attention. We had prepared ourselves with fowling-pieces and shooting +equipage, with the view of penetrating into the interior country: in +pursuance of our design, we dispatched a messenger to <i>Decar</i>, with a +request that we might be supplied with attendants and horses: our +solicitation was promptly complied with; and Alexander, Marraboo's son, +speedily made his appearance with two horses, attended by several chiefs +and head men. Our cavalcade made a most grotesque exhibition; Mr. Hamilton +and myself being on horseback, followed by Alexander and his attendants on +foot, in their native accoutrements and shooting apparatus. My seat was not +the most easy, neither was my horse very correct in his paces; the saddle +being scarcely long enough to admit me, with a projection behind, intended +as a security from falling backwards: the stirrups were formed of a thin +plate of iron, about three or four inches broad, and so small, that I could +scarcely squeeze my feet into them. In our progress we killed several +birds, of a species unknown in Europe, and of a most beautiful plumage; one +of which, a little larger than the partridge in England, was armed with a +sharp dart or weapon projecting from the pinion, as if designed by nature +to operate as a guard against its enemies. Our associates rendered us every +friendly attention, and evinced great anxiety to contribute to our sport; +and proved themselves skilful and expert marksmen. The country abounded +with a multiplicity of trees and plants, which would no doubt have amply +rewarded the researches of the botanist, and scientific investigator. The +fatigue I had undergone, and the oppressive heat of the sun, so completely +overpowered me, by the time of our return to Goree Town, that I felt myself +attacked by a violent fever; in this situation I was attended with every +tenderness and solicitude by the females; some bringing me a calabash of +milk, others spreading me a mat to repose upon, and all uniting in kind +offices: it is from them alone that man derives his highest happiness in +this life; and in all situations to which he is exposed, they are the +assuasive agents by whom his sorrows are soothed, his sufferings +alleviated, and his griefs subdued; while compassion is their prominent +characteristic, and sympathy a leading principle of their minds.</p> + +<p>The attention of these kind beings, and the affectionate offices of my +friend, operating upon a naturally good constitution, soon enabled me to +overcome the disease, and to return again to Goree. During the remaining +part of my stay there, I was vigilantly employed in procuring every +information relative to this part of the coast, and through the +intelligence of several of the native inhabitants and traders, I am enabled +to submit the following remarks.</p> + +<p>To elucidate, with perspicuity, the deep impression I feel of the +importance of this district of the Windward Coast, in obtaining a facility +of intercourse with the interior, combining such a variety of local +advantage, by which our ascendency may be preserved, and our commercial +relations improved, is an undertaking, the difficulties of which I duly +appreciate; and I am aware that I have to combat many prejudices and +grounds of opposition to the system I conceive to be practicable, to +develope the various stores of wealth with which Africa abounds, and to +improve the intellectual faculties of its native inhabitants.</p> + +<p>That a situation so highly valuable as the Senegal, and its contiguous +auxiliary, the island of Goree, has been so overlooked, is certainly a +subject of great surprise, and deep regret. While visionary and +impracticable efforts have been resorted to penetrate into the interior of +Africa, we have strangely neglected the maritime situations, which abound +with multifarious objects of commerce, and valuable productions, inviting +our interference to extricate them from their dormant state; and the +consideration apparently has been overlooked, that the barbarism of the +natives on the frontiers must first be subdued by enlightened example, +before the path of research can be opened to the interior.</p> + +<p>We have several recent occurrences to lament, where the most +enterprising efforts have failed, through the inherent jealousies of the +natives, and their ferocious character; and, therefore, it is expedient to +commence experiments in the maritime countries, as the most eligible points +from whence operative influence is to make its progress, civilization +display itself among the inhabitants, and a facility of intercourse be +attained with the interior. So long as this powerful barrier remains in its +present condition, it will continue unexplored; and our intercourse with +its more improved tribes must remain obscured, by the forcible opposition +of the frontier; and these immense regions, with their abundant natural +resources, continue unknown to the civilized world. The inhabitants of the +sea coast are always more fierce and savage than those more remote and +insular: all travellers and voyagers, who have visited mankind in their +barbarous state, must substantiate this fact: and the history of nations +and states clearly demonstrates, that the never-failing influence of +commerce and agriculture united, has emanated from the frontiers, and +progressively spread their blessings into the interior countries. View our +own now envied greatness, and the condition in which our forefathers lived, +absorbed in idolatry and ignorance, and it will unquestionably appear, that +our exalted state of being has arisen from the introduction of the +civilized arts of life, the commerce which our local situation has invited +to our shores, and our agricultural industry.</p> + +<p>Within the district now in contemplation, flows the river of +<i>Senegal</i>, with its valuable <i>gum trade</i>; the <i>Gambia</i>, +abounding with innumerable objects of commerce, such as indigo, and a great +variety of plants for staining, of peculiar properties, timber, wax, ivory, +&c.; <i>the Rio Grande, Rio Noonez, Rio Pongo,</i> &c. all greatly +productive, and their borders inhabited by the Jolliffs, the Foollahs, the +Susees, the Mandingos, and other inferior nations, and communicating, as is +now generally believed, with the river Niger, which introduces us to the +interior of this great continent; the whole presenting an animating +prospect to the distinguished enterprise of our country.</p> + +<p>That these advantages should be neglected, is, as I have before said, +subject of deep regret, and are the objects which I would entreat my +countrymen to contemplate, as the most eligible to attain a knowledge of +this important quarter of the globe, and to introduce civilization among +its numerous inhabitants; by which means, our enemies will be excluded from +that emolument and acquirement, which we supinely overlook and abandon to +contingencies.</p> + +<p>The island of Goree lies between the French settlement of the Senegal +and the river Gambia, and therefore is a very appropriate local station to +aid in forming a general system of operation from Cape Verd to Cape Palmas, +subject to one administration and control. The administrative authority, I +would recommend to be established in the river of Sierra Leone, as a +central situation, from whence evolution is to proceed with requisite +facility, and a ready intercourse be maintained throughout the whole of the +Windward Coast; and as intermediate situations, I would propose the rivers +Gambia, Rio Noonez, Rio Pongo, and Isles de Loss, to the northward; and to +the southward, the Bannana Islands, the Galinhas, Bassau, John's River, &c. +to Cape Palmas; or such of them as would be found, upon investigation, best +calculated to promote the resources of this extensive coast.</p> + +<p>The supreme jurisdiction in the river Sierra Leone, with auxiliaries +established to influence the trade of the foregoing rivers, form the +outlines of my plan, to be supported by an adequate military force, and +organized upon principles which I have hereafter to explain in the course +of my narrative.</p> + +<p>Having an opportunity to sail for England, in his Majesty's sloop of war +the Eugenie, commanded by Charles Webb, Esq. as it was uncertain at what +time the Lark was to proceed, I availed myself of that officer's kind +permission to embark, accompanied by surgeon Thomas Burrowes and his +lady.</p> + +<p>The Eugenie had been dispatched for England to convoy the Crescent +transport brig, with Mr. Mungo Park on board, to the river Gambia, upon his +late mission to the interior of Africa. Captain Webb did not conceive it +prudent, nor indeed was it expedient, to proceed higher up the river than +Jillifree, and dispatched the Crescent as far as Kaya, about 150 miles from +the capes of the river, where Mr. Park landed with his associates, viz. his +surgeon, botanist, draftsman, and about 40 soldiers, commanded by an +officer obtained from the royal African corps at Goree, by the order of +Government.</p> + +<p>Nothing could have been more injudicious than attempting this ardoous +undertaking, with any force assuming a military appearance. The natives of +Africa are extremely jealous of white men, savage and ferocious in their +manners, and in the utmost degree tenacious of any encroachment upon their +country. This unhappy mistake may deprive the world of the researches of +this intelligent and persevering traveller, who certainly merits the esteem +of his country, and who, it is to be feared, may fall a victim to a +misconceived plan, and mistaken procedure.</p> +<br> + +<center> +<a href=images/040.jpg><img border=0 alt=040 +src=images/040_th.jpg></a><br>[Illustration: PORTO PRAYA, ISLAND OF ST JAGO +Published Aug 1 1807 by G & W Nicol] +</center> + + +<p>Although anxious to embark, yet I could not take my departure without +sensibly feeling and expressing my sense of obligation for the many +attentions I had to acknowledge from the officers of the garrison, and also +to several of the native inhabitants, among whom were Peppin, Martin, St. +John, and others; the latter, I am sorry to say, was in a bad state of +health; I am much indebted to him for his judicious remarks, and very +intelligent observations. This native received his education in France, and +has acquired a very superior intelligence relative to the present condition +of his country.</p> + +<p>Accompanied by Mr. Hamilton, my hospitable and friendly host, and +several of the officers of the Lark, I embarked on board the Eugenie, on +the 31st of May, and arrived in Porto Praya Bay on the 3d of June.</p> + +<p>The town of Porto Praya is situated upon a plain, forming a height from +the sea, level with the fort, and is a most wretched place, with a very +weak and vulnerable fortification. In the roads there is good anchorage for +shipping, opposite to Quail island, and for smaller vessels nearer the +shore. It has a governmenthouse, a catholic chapel, a market place, and +jail, built with stone; and is now the residence of the government of the +island of St. Jago, subject to the crown of Portugul. Formerly the +governor's place of abode was at the town of St. Jago, upon the opposite +side of the island: his title is that of governor-general of the islands, +comprehending Mayo, Fogo, &c.</p> + +<p>Mayo is remarkable for its salt, which is cast on shore by the rollers +or heavy seas, which at certain periods prevail, and run uncommonly high. +The heat of the sun operating upon the saline particles, produces the salt, +which the inhabitants collect in heaps for sale. We anchored at Mayo for +some hours, and a number of vessels were lying in the roads, chiefly +Americans, taking in this article; it is a very rocky and dangerous +anchorage; we, however, found the traders were willing to undergo the +risque, from the cheapness of the commodity they were in quest of.</p> + +<p>It is a most sorry place, with scarce a vestige of vegetation upon its +surface, and its inhabitants apparently live in the greatest misery. They +are governed by a black man, subject to the administration of St. Jago.</p> + +<p>The military force of St. Jago is by no means either formidable in +numbers or discipline, and exhibits a most complete picture of despicable +wretchedness.</p> + +<p>A black officer, of the name of Vincent, conducted as to the governor, +who received us with politeness, and gave us an invitation to dinner. The +town and garrison were quite in a state of activity and bustle; an officer +of high rank and long residence among them had just paid the debt of +nature, and his body was laid in state in the chapel, in all his +paraphernalia. The greater part of the monks from the monastery of St. Jago +were assembled upon the occasion, to sing requiems for his soul; and the +scene was truly solemn and impressive. We met these ministers of religion +at dinner, but how changed from that gravity of demeanor which +distinguished them in their acts of external worship. The governor's +excellent Madeira was taken in the most genuine spirit of devotion, +accompanied by fervent exclamations upon its excellent qualities. Upon +perceiving this holy fervency in the pious fraternity, we plied them +closely, and frequently joined them in flowing bumpers, until their ardour +began to sink into brutal stupidity, and the morning's hymns were changed +into revelry and bacchanalian roar.</p> +<br> + +<center> +<a href=images/043.jpg><img border=0 alt=043 +src=images/043_th.jpg></a><br>[Illustration: POGO, bearing N. by W. +distance about 4 leagues from B Published Aug 1 1807 by G & W Nicol] +</center> +<br> + +<center> +<a href=images/044.jpg><img border=0 alt=044 +src=images/044_th.jpg></a><br>[Illustration: 3 ISLAND of ST. IAGO, distance +6 Miles. 4. PAPS of CAPE VERDE, bearing at C, <i>N.N.E.</i> and at D, +<i>S.E.</i> by <i>S.</i> distance 3 leagues. Published Aug 1 1807 by G & W +Nicol] +</center> + + +<p>This, however, was rather a tax upon the governor's hospitality, as it +deprived him of his <i>Ciesta</i>, a common practice with him, almost +immediately after the cloth is withdrawn. When we came ashore the next +morning, we were highly entertained with the anecdotes related to us of the +pranks performed during the night by the convivial priests, many of whom +were unable to fulfil the duties of the altar at the usual hour of +prayer.</p> + +<p>The natives of St. Jago, with those of the neighbouring islands, are +mostly black, or of a mixed colour, very encroaching in their manners, and +much addicted to knavery. The island is extremely rocky and uneven, but the +vallies are fertile. The inhabitants raise cotton, and they have several +sugar works; the quantity they raise of both, does not, however, much +exceed their own consumption, but there is no doubt that it might be +considerably augmented by industry, even for exportation; but the natives +are indolent, and extremely listless in their habits. The only inducement +in touching at this island is, to procure water and provisions: the former +is good, and the latter consists in hogs, turkeys, ducks, poultry, &c. but +frequently, after they have been visited by a fleet, a great scarcity +prevails.</p> + +<p>The commodities the natives require as payment may be purchased at Rag +Fair, being extremely partial to cast off wearing apparel of every +description.</p> + +<p>The men are extremely slovenly in their dress; but the women are rather +more correct and uniform, those of the better condition being habited in +muslin, and their hair ornamented, and neatly plaited.</p> + +<p>They manufacture a narrow cloth of silk and cotton, which is in high +estimation among them, and its exportation is prohibited, except to +Portugal. Considerable ingenuity is displayed in this manufacture, which is +performed in a loom, differing very little from that used by the ruder +inhabitants of the coast of Africa, and similar to the garter loom in +England. They have horses and mules well adapted to their roads and rugged +paths, which they ride most furiously, particularly the military, who +advance at full speed to a stone wall, or the side of a house, merely to +shew their dexterity in halting.</p> + +<p>After being detained here for several days in taking in stock and +provisions, we again weighed with the Crescent brig, and a sloop from +Gambia, bound to London, under our convoy, and after a tedious and very +anxious passage, arrived at Portsmouth on the 4th of August. We were +detained under quarantine until the return of post from London, and +proceeded on shore the following day. There is something in <i>natale +solum</i> which charms the soul after a period of absence, and operates so +powerfully, as to fill it with indescribable sensations and delight. Every +object and scene appeals so forcibly to the senses, enraptures the eye, and +so sweetly attunes the mind, as to place this feeling among even the +extacies of our nature, and; the most refined we are capable of +enjoying.</p> + +<p>It is this love of his country which stimulates man to the noblest +deeds; and, leaving all other considerations, only obedient to its call, +separates him from his most tender connections, and makes him risque his +life in its defence.</p> + +"Where'er we roam, whatever realms to see,<br> +Our hearts untravell'd fondly turn to thee;<br> +Still to our country turn, with ceaseless pain,<br> +And drag, at each remove, a lengthening chain."<br> +<span style="margin-left: 20em;">GOLDSMITH.</span><br> + + + +<hr> +<H1><a name=CHAPTER_IV>CHAPTER IV.</a></H1> + + + + +<p><i>The Author proceeds to London.—Re-embarks for Africa.—Arrives at +Madeira.—Observations on that Island.—Prosecution of the Voyage, and +Arrival in the Sierra Leone River, &c.</i></p> + + +<p>Our happy arrival was celebrated at the Crown inn, where Captain Webb +and his first Lieutenant (Younger) joined us; we dined together, and +separated with mutual kind wishes. The next morning Mr. Burrowes and myself +proceeded to London, and were once more rapidly conducted into its busy +scene.</p> + +<p>Without even time to greet my friends, I again left town for Portsmouth, +to commit myself to the watery element, and revisit the shores. I had so +recently left; and on the 22d of September sailed, in the ship Andersons, +from St. Helen's, under convoy of the Arab post sloop of war, commanded by +Keith Maxwell, Esq. and the Favorite sloop of war, by John Davie, Esq.</p> + +<p>We anchored in Funchal Roads, island of Madeira, on Saturday the lath of +October, without experiencing any remarkable event.</p> + +<p>When approaching the island of Madeira, it exhibits to the eye a +strikingly beautiful and picturesque view. The uneven surface of the hills, +covered with plantations of vines, and various kinds of herbage, with the +exception of partial spots burnt up by the heat of the sun in the dry +season, displays a singular perspective, which, with the beautiful +appearance of the interspersed villas, churches, and monasteries, form an +arrangement both exquisite and delightful.</p> + +<p>After being visited by the boat of health, our party proceeded on shore +in the evening; and upon being made known to the house of Messrs. Murdoch, +Masterton, and Co. were politely invited to breakfast the ensuing +morning.</p> + +<p>At our appearance, in conformity with our appointment, we were +introduced into the breakfast parlour by Mr. Wardrope, one of the acting +partners, to his lady and sister, who received us with engaging civilities +and attention.</p> + +<p>After our friendly meal, we perambulated the town of Funchal, and +attended chapel, which so far from being a house of devotion, presented to +our contemplation a rendezvous for intrigue and the retirement of a +conversazione.</p> + +<p>Funchiale or Funchal, takes its derivation from Funcho, signifying in +the Portuguese language, Fennel; it is situated at the bottom of a bay, and +may be considered disproportionate to the island, in extent and appearance, +as it is ill built, and the streets remarkably narrow and ill paved. The +churches are decorated with ornaments, and pictures of images and saints, +most wretchedly executed: I understand, however, that a much better taste +is displayed in the convents, more especially that of the Franciscans, in +which is a small chapel, exhibiting the disgusting view of human skulls and +thigh bones lining its walls. The thigh bones form a cross, and the skulls +are placed in each of the four angles.</p> + +<p>Nature has been very bountiful in her favours to Madeira; its soil is +rich and various, and its climate is salubrious and versatile; it abounds +in natural productions, and only requires the fostering hand of the +husbandman to produce every necessary, and almost luxury, of life. Walnuts, +chesnuts, and apples, flourish in the hills, almost spontaneously, and +guanas, mangoes, and bananas, in wild exuberance. At the country residence +of James Gordon, Esq. where we dined, and met with the most distinguished +hospitality, I saw a most surprising instance of rapid growth; a shoot of +the tree, called the Limbriera Royal, started up, perpendicularly from the +trunk, to a height of nearly <i>thirty feet</i>, from the month of January +to that of October: it is, however, to be observed, that the branches were +lopped off, and it is supposed the juices of the trunk communicated to this +stem.</p> + +<p>Corn of a very good quality grows in this island, and might be produced +in plenty, but the inhabitants, whose characteristic is idleness, neglect +its culture, and thereby subject themselves to the necessity of relying +upon foreign imports. Their beef, mutton, and pork, are remarkably good, +and they have game in the mountains.</p> + +<p>By order of the late governor, in 1800, the population was taken from +the confessional returns, and, as he was himself a bishop, it may be +inferred that the number stated below, which I procured from official +authority, is accurate, viz.</p> +<br> + +<table> +<tr><td>Number confessed,</td><td>95,000</td></tr> +<tr><td>And, calculating 1 in 10 for children under 5</td><td></td></tr> +<tr><td>years of age, the first period of their confession,</td><td></td></tr> +<tr><td>is equal to</td><td>3,500</td></tr> +<tr><td></td><td>————</td></tr> +<tr><td>Making in the aggregate the number of souls to be</td><td>104,500</td></tr> +<tr><td></td><td>————</td></tr> +</table> + + +<p>15,000 of whom were computed to be inhabitants of the town of +Funchal.</p> + +<p>The government consists of a governor, appointed by the crown of +Portugal, the island being in its possession, styled governor of the +islands, and: is perfectly arbitrary; Funchal is his residence; he has a +council under him consisting of 24 members, whose president is the second +judge for the time being. All officers are nominated by the crown, and the +holders continue only for three years, at the end of which new nominations +take place.</p> + +<p>The only article of trade is wine, of which they export about 12,000 +pipes annually, and consume from 6 to 8,000 pipes in the island, +comprehending <i>small wine</i>, &c. being in the whole about 20,000 pipes. +It is made by pressing out the juice from the grape in a wooden vessel, +proportioned in size to the quantity they intend to make. The wine-pressers +take off their jackets and stockings, get into the vessel, and with their +elbows and feet press as much of the juice as is practicable by this +operation; the stalks are then tied together and pressed, under a square +piece of wood, by a lever with a stone fastened to the end of it; the wine +is brought from the country in goat skins, by men and women on their +heads.</p> + +<p>The roads are so steep and roughly paved, that neither carriages nor +carts are in use, the substitute is a palanquin for the former, and for the +latter a hollow log of wood, drawn by oxen, upon which the wine vessels or +other loads are placed; they, however, have horses and mules very well +adapted to their roads.</p> + +<p>The revenue to the crown of Portugal is estimated from 20 to +30,000<i>l</i>. annually, clear of all expenses; but the balance of trade +is greatly against them, all their specie being drawn to Lisbon.</p> + +<p>The currency of the island is Spanish, and consists of dollars, +converted by their laws, into milreas of 5<i>s</i>. 6<i>d</i>. pistareens, +value about is. bits, about 6<i>d</i>. and half bits, about 3<i>d</i>.</p> + +<p>It is disadvantageous to take up money at Madeira upon bills, as they +make payment in dollars, which they value at a milrea. Sometimes they may, +from particular circumstances, give a premium, but it is seldom equal to +the discount.</p> + +<p>On the morning of the 18th I bad my grateful adieu to Madeira, and the +friendly roof of Mr. Wardrope and his united family, the abode of conjugal +affection, friendship, and hospitable reception; and at 2 P.M. went on +board. We weighed anchor under the protection of the Favorite, the Arab +continuing at her moorings. Passing between the grand Canary and close in +with Teneriffe, we arrived safe at the island of Goree, on the 5th of +November, without our commodore, under convoy of the Favorite. The ship +Andersons having freight to deliver at that island, we continued there +until the 12th, and again resumed our voyage; arriving, without accident; +at Bance Island, which I have previously noticed, on the 22d of the same +month.</p> + +<p>My residence was confined to this island, and in excursions through the +neighbouring countries, until the 4th June, 1806, during which period, and +from a general intercourse with an extended circle of chiefs, natives, and +traders, I have been enabled to decide upon the situation of this country, +and to form a conclusive opinion of the condition and character of its +inhabitants, and its commercial resources.</p> + +<p>From these sources of intelligence, and the example this island +displayed, with observations upon the conduct and management of the Sierra +Leone company, I first conceived the system that I shall hereafter +delineate, upon which the African's condition may be effectually improved, +and his hereditary slavery exterminated.</p> +<br> + +<center> +<a href=images/053.jpg><img border=0 alt=053 +src=images/053_th.jpg></a><br>[Illustration: BANCE ISLAND, in the RIVER +SIERRA LEONE. <i>The Property of John & Alexander Anderson Esq. +London.</i>] +</center> + + +<p>The natives of Africa resident upon the coast, are uniformly considered +as more ferocious and barbarous in their customs and manners, less numerous +in population, and more encroaching and deceitful, than those of the +interior. While this formidable opposition exists, and the baneful +influence of barbarous habits continues, it is in vain to look to +remuneration by natural commerce, or to the establishment of civilization. +The African's barbarity must be first here assailed, and the infinite +resources upon the coasts and maritime rivers must be developed to his +view, to pre-dispose him to refine his condition, and adopt the civilized +habits of life; nor is there any site which I have met with upon the +Windward Coast of Africa, more calculated to promote this beneficent +undertaking, than the island of Bance, from its locality of situation, +being central to windward and leeward operation, commanding an extensive +circle of interior country, and being long established in the estimation of +the natives of an extended district. But more of this subject in order.</p> + + + +<hr> +<H1><a name=CHAPTER_V>CHAPTER V.</a></H1> + + + + +<p><i>Observations upon the natural Productions of the River Sierra +Leone.—The Author explores its Branches, interior to Bance Island, the +Rochelle, and the Port Logo.—The Manners and Customs of the +Inhabitants.—Their Commerce.—The Author's safe Arrival at +Miffaré.</i></p> + + +<p>The river of Sierra Leone abounds in fish, and the spermaceti whale has +been occasionally found, the shark, the porpoise, eels, mackarel, mullet, +snappers, yellow tails, cavillos, tenpounders, &c. with the +<i>mannittee</i>, a singular mass of shapeless flesh, having much the taste +of beef, which the natives greatly esteem, and consider the highest +offering they can make.</p> + +<p>Oysters are found in great abundance, attached to the interwoven twigs +and branches of the mangrove tree, to which they closely cling; and of the +zoophytes, there is the common sponge to be found upon the sandy beaches, +on the Boolum shore, and would, no doubt, bring a high price in +England.</p> + +<p>The domestic animals of the adjoining countries are, cattle, sheep, +goats, hogs, ducks, turkeys, and fowls, very inferior, however, to those in +Europe. The beasts of prey are, lions, leopards, hyaenas, wild hogs in +abundance, squirrels, monkies, antelopes, &c. with the civet and zibeth +cats, and a most extraordinary animal, which is found in the mountains of +Sierra Leone and the adjacent countries, a species of the ourang outang, +called by the natives, japanzee, or chimpanzee, but approaching nearer to +the anatomy of the human frame than the former animal. Some of them, when +full grown, are nearly 5 feet, and are covered with black hair, long on the +back, but thin and short upon the belly and breast; the face is quite bare, +and the hands and feet resemble those of man; its countenance is remarkably +grave, similar to that of an old black man, but its ears are straight; it +will imitate a human being in walking, sleeping, eating, and drinking, and +is certainly a most singular production of nature. Surgeon Burrowes, whom I +have before mentioned, had a perfect skeleton of this animal, which, he +assured me, differed in nothing from the human, but in the spine, it being +curved. This skeleton, I believe, now forms a part of the collection of +Surgeon-General Keate.</p> + +<p>There are, of amphibious animals, green turtles, hawk's bills, and +loggerheads, which grow to a great size, some of them weighing several +hundred pounds, land turtles, fresh water turtles, alligators, extremely +voracious, and from 12 to 15 feet in length; they will swallow a man, and +at Bance Island Negro boys have been frequently snatched up by them from +the shore. There are also a variety of the lizard species, with the guava, +and camelion.</p> + +<p>Snakes abound; some of them haunt the houses in the night, and prowl +about for poultry, of which they are fond; some have been found to measure +above 18 feet; and I have the skin of one in my possession, killed when +young, above 10 feet in length; it is that species which swallows its prey +entire; several animals were found in their perfect state when the one I +allude to was cut open.</p> + +<p>There is also an immense animal of this species, which I have heard the +natives of this part of the coast describe, often exceeding 30 feet in +length, and of an enormous size; it is variegated with spots, and the head +is covered with scales; the tongue is fleshy and forked, but its bite is +not poisonous; it is to be found in the recesses of caves and thickets, +from whence it suddenly darts upon its victim, whether man or beast: it +frequently chooses a tree, from which it reconnoitres the passing objects, +supporting itself by the tail, which it twists round the trunk or branches: +when it seizes animals, especially those of the larger kind, such as lions, +tigers, &c. it dexterously, and almost instantaneously twists itself round +their bodies in several folds, and by its powerful muscular force, breaks +the bones, and bruises it in all its parts; when this is done it covers the +animal with a viscous cohesive saliva, by licking its body with its tongue, +which facilitates the power of swallowing it entire; this process is +tedious, and it gradually sucks in the body, which, if large, renders it +incapable of moving for some time, until it digests; and this is the period +which the hunters watch to destroy it: it makes a hissing noise like a +serpent, and has recourse to a variety of expedients to conceal itself; it +is called by the natives <i>Tinnui</i>, and is what I apprehend naturalists +term the species of <i>Boa constrictor</i>: it is most commonly found in +the sultry climates of Africa, and I believe is also an inhabitant of Asia +and America.</p> + +<p>Insects are extremely numerous, of a nondescript species, and +exceedingly beautiful: the most singular are termites, destructive to +houses and fences built of wood; ants, causing ruin to provisions; +cockroaches and crickets, destroying leather, linen, and clothes; +musquitos, sand-flies, centipedes, scorpions; and wild bees, which are very +productive of honey. The vermis and large barnacles abound, which are so +destructive to shipping without copper bottoms.</p> + +<p>Esculent vegetables are various: Rice, which forms the chief part of the +African's sustenance. The rice-fields or <i>lugars</i> are prepared during +the dry season, and the seed is sown in the tornado season, requiring about +four or five months growth to bring it to perfection.</p> + +<p>Yams, a nutritious substance, known in the West Indies.</p> + +<p><i>Cassada</i> or <i>cassava</i>, a root, of a pleasant taste when +roasted or boiled, and makes an excellent cake, superior in whiteness to +flour.</p> + +<p>Papaw, of a deep green in its growth, but yellqw when ripe, and is an +excellent dish when boiled; its leaves are frequently used by the natives +for soap; ropes are made of the bark.</p> + +<p>Oranges and limes are in great abundance, and of superior quality, +throughout the year; but lemons degenerate much in their growth, and in a +few years are scarcely to be distinguished from the latter. Guavas, +pumpkins, or pumpions, squash water mellons, musk mellons, and cucumbers, +grow in the greatest perfection. The pumpkins grow in wild exuberance +throughout the year, and make a good pudding or pie.</p> + +<p>Indian corn, or maize, may be reaped several times throughout the year, +only requiring about three months growth.</p> + +<p>Millet, with a multiplicity too tedious to enumerate.</p> + +<p>Sugar canes are not very abundant, but are of a good quality, which, +under careful management and industry, would, no doubt, yield productive +returns.</p> + +<p>Coffee trees, of different nondescript species, only requiring the same +interference.</p> + +<p>Dyes, of infinite variety and superior texture: yellow is procured from +the butter and tallow tree, producing a juice resembling gamboge, but more +cohesive, and of a darker colour; the wood of this tree is firm, and +adapted to a variety of purposes; its fruit is about the size of a tennis +ball, nearly oval, thick in the rind, and of a pleasant acid taste, +containing several seeds about the size of a walnut, and yielding a viscous +substance used by the natives in their food. Red and black are procured +from a variety of other trees and plants; and indigo growing in wild +exuberance, particularly in the rivers more to the northward.</p> + +<p>Cotton, in great varieties, requiring only cultivation to raise it to +perfection and amount. The natives manufacture from it a narrow cloth, +which is made from thread, spun in a manner similar to the distaff.</p> + +<p>A species of silk cotton, or ether down, is produced on a large tree, +called the pullam tree. The quantity which the usual size bears may be +computed at about 4 cwt. in pods of 6 to 9 inches long, 4-1/2 in +circumference, and about 1-1/2 inch in diameter, which, upon being exposed +to the heat of the sun, is distended to an incredible bulk. It is much +superior to down for the couch, and, from its elasticity, might be of great +utility in the manufacture of hats. This tree is in great estimation among +the Africans, and is frequently regarded by them as their <i>Fetish</i>. +Every town almost has a tree of this species towering over its huts, which +its chief tells the traveller with exultation he or his father planted.</p> + +<p>Tobacco is uncertain, but I entertain very little doubt that it might be +raised upon the more luxuriant soils.</p> + +<p>Pepper, more particularly near Cape Mount, of several sorts, Maboobo, +Massaaba, Massa, Amquona, Tosan, &c.; the three first are of a weaker +flavour, and are oblong and angular in their seeds; but the last excels in +pungency, and is the native Malaguetta pepper of Africa.</p> + +<p>The bread-fruit tree, is similar in appearance to the apple tree, and +grows in the low sandy situations of the Boolum shore, producing a fruit +exceedingly nutritious, and larger than an apple.</p> + +<p>Tamarinds in great variety and plenty: the velvet tamarind abounds in +the Bananas, also the white and brown; but the latter are most in esteem, +and are very fine.</p> + +<p>Okras, the fruit of a small tree, resembling the English mallows, which +put into soup gives it a gelatine quality, highly alimental; the leaves +make a good spinage.</p> + +<p>The palm tree, producing the oil so denominated, is one of the most +useful trees to the African, yielding him meat, drink, and raiment. Where +it grows, it is an indication of a good soil. It is remarkably tall, +without branches, having regular and gradual protuberances, from the bottom +towards the top, ending in five or six clusters of nuts, shaded by large +deciduous leaves. The nuts, which are about the size of a hazle nut, have a +hard kernel, encompassed by a clammy unctuous substance, covered by a thin +skin, and the oil is produced from them by being exposed to the sun, which, +by its influence, opens the juices; subsequent to this exposure, the nuts +are put into a boiler full of water, and a liquid, in the process of +boiling, flows upon the top, which when skimmed off, soon hardens and turns +rancid; the kernel of the nut, after this process, is taken out of the +boiler, beat in a paloon, and put into clear water, the shell of the nut +sinks, and its contents float upon the surface, which, when skimmed as +before, is finally put into a pot, fried, and carefully poured off, +producing another kind of oil, used as butter, and having in a great degree +its quality.</p> + +<p>The wine is extracted from the tree by forming an incision at the bottom +of every cluster of nuts, from each of which flows about a gallon of wine +per day, for a week, when they are closed until the ensuing season. The +liquid, when newly taken from the tree, resembles whey, and in that state +has a sweetish agreeable taste, but it soon ferments and grows sour, +changing to a strong vinegar of a disagreeable smell: in its fermented +state it is most esteemed by the natives, and is productive of +inebriety.</p> + +<p>A substance overtops the clusters about 10 or 12 inches in diameter, and +3 or 4 feet in height, in a full grown tree, from whence proceeds a stalk, +about 4 inches in length, which, on being boiled in water, makes an +excellent vegetable resembling cabbage, or rather, in taste, the +cauliflower; the leaves of the tree are converted by the natives into +baskets, fishing nets, and cloth.</p> + +<p>MEDICINAL PLANTS. <i>Colla</i> is highly esteemed by the natives, and +they attribute to it the virtues of Peruvian bark; the Portuguese, ascribe +the same quality to it, and dispatch from their factories small vessels to +collect all they can procure.</p> + +<p><i>Castor Oil Rhinum</i>.-The bush which produces the bud from which +this oil and valuable medicine is extracted, grows in great exuberance upon +the Windward Coast, and its vicinity. A species of bark is in great +abundance also, and is said to be equal in virtue to the Peruvian.</p> + +<p>The foregoing enumeration of natural productions, is the result of +unscientific enquiry only; but unquestionably, industrious and professional +research, would discover infinitely more to philosophic and commercial +contemplation, and develope the arcana of nature, dormant here through +ignorance and barbarism.</p> + +<p>On the 10th of May, I set out from Bance Island, with the view of +exploring the two branches of the Sierra Leone river, the Rochelle, and the +Port Logo. After rowing a few hours I arrived at the factory of Miffaré, +formerly occupied by a Mr. Berauld, a Frenchman, but now attached to Bance +Island.</p> + +<p>Mr. Hodgkin, with his people, then in possession of the factory, +accompanied me up the Port Logo branch the following morning, taking a +number of towns in our way, and visiting the chiefs. The course of this +branch of the river is extremely serpentine, and is navigable for light +vessels to a little way from the town of Port Logo which is now the +residence of Alimami, a Mandingo chief, who assumes the title of emperor. +The banks are overgrown with the mangrove tree, interwoven together, so as +to form an almost impenetrable thicket, excluding the air, which, with the +extreme heat of the sun, and the noxious insects which are extracted by its +rays from the swamps and woods, renders this navigation intolerably +oppressive. The chief part of its trade is in slaves, camwood, and ivory, +the latter, however, being small, although Port Logo commands a very +extensive back country. When we came near the town of Port Logo, which is +extremely difficult of approach at low water, we announced our visit by +saluting in the manner of this country, which is what they call bush +firing, or in other words is a continued irregular firing of musquetry.</p> + +<p>It was soon discovered who we were, and crowds of natives flocked down +from the upper town, which is situated on the declivity of a hill, to give +us service, or to pay their respects. Our first visit was to +<i>Marriba</i>, one of Alimami's head men, and a resident of what they +consider the lower town.</p> + +<p>Upon our arrival at Marriba's house, we found him at his devotions in +the palaver-house, a shed under which the natives daily assemble to pray, +or discuss public affairs. He received us with every demonstration of +regard, and immediately offered his services to conduct us to Alimami. The +old chief preceded us, with his long gold-headed cane, and our rear was +brought up by a number of armed men, who had assembled to give us a +favourable reception. Our salute had pleased Alimami, and being before +known to him, he was determined to shew us every respect. The heat of the +sun was almost intolerable, and before we arrived at the top of the hill +where the imperial palace stood, I was nearly exhausted. The entrance to +this large square of irregular mud buildings, is through a narrow passage +or gate, forming an oblong square of mud, covered with thatch, and facing +Alimami's house: we were ushered through this by one of his head men, and +proceeded in the order we set out to Alimami, who was seated at the top of +the square, surrounded by his chiefs, upon a mat spread upon a raised bank +of mud, dressed in a turban, after the Turkish fashion, and a loose +manding, robe, or shirt.</p> + +<p>Several pleaders were haranguing two of his judges, who were seated at a +distance, in palaver, or council, to take cognizance of a dispute relative +to some slaves; and although our arrival had excited the-curiosity of every +inhabitant of the town, yet we passed the tribunal without interruption, +their attention being absorbed on the subject of their sitting. The whole +compass of the square was scarcely equal to contain their oratory, their +voices being so extremely loud as to be heard distinctly, without the +walls, accompanied by menacing attitudes. Passing this declamatory +assembly, we paid our obeisance to Alimami, who was graciously pleased to +receive us in the manner of his country, with great civilities, and +immediately spread mats for us with his own hands, near himself. It was +impossible, although accustomed to these people, to contemplate the +surrounding objects without interest. I had previously been acquainted with +this chief at Bance Island, where he was in a high degree restrained by +European manners; but here, every thing was native and original. All came +to give us service, which is performed as I have mentioned. A goat and a +couple of fowls were next presented for our dinners, for which an offering +more valuable was expected, and of course complied with. This mutual +interchange of civilities being fulfilled, our attention was excited by the +orators, who by this time were extremely clamorous; one of them, with an +aspect the most furious, ran up to where I was seated, and addressing +Alimami, said, "that as proof his palaver be good, white man come to give +him service while he address him on the subject of his demand;" attaching +to that circumstance, the superstitious idea that he was right, and that I +was his <i>fetish</i> to establish that right.</p> + +<p>I then enquired of Alimami the nature of the trial; he replied, "these +men tell their story, I appoint two judges to hear them, who are to report +to me what they say, and their opinions of the matter, but I hear all that +already and they cannot tell me wrong: I then give judgment," Or in other +words more expressive of his meaning; these men make their complaint to my +head men, or the judges I have appointed to hear it; it is their business +to make me a true report, and give me their opinion on the merits of the +case; and although I am not now supposed to hear it, yet I am so situated +as to hear the whole, and can thereby check any corrupt practices in the +judges.</p> + +<p>I had now leisure to examine the interior of Alimami's residence; it +consisted of a square of irregular buildings, thatched with bamboo, and +covered with roofs, supported by pillars of wood, at about 6 feet distance, +projecting about the same number of feet beyond the skeleton of the fabric, +and forming a kind of palisado, which serves as a shade for retirement from +the heat of the sun, and under which, the inhabitants indulge in repose, or +sit in familiar intercourse.</p> + +<p>During my conversation with Alimami, his brother, a fat jolly fellow, +was reposing himself upon his mat, reading his Arabic prayer book, which, +upon examination, I found executed in a neat character, and from his +interpretation, was a record of fabulous anecdotes of his family, and +containing confused extracts from the Koran.</p> + +<p>The Mandingos are professed Mahomedans, whose influence is spreading +with so much rapidity on this part of the coast, that several of the other +tribes have submitted to their authority; so strong an impression has their +superior attainments and book-knowledge imprinted on their minds. In no +instance can their growing influence appear more conspicuous than in that +of Alimami being vested with authority over the Port Logo, of which he is +not a native, and over a people originally infidels. Formerly this tribe of +Mandingos were itinerant <i>fetish</i> makers and priests, but now they are +numerous to the northward of Sierra Leone, from whence a wide district +receives their rulers and chieftains.</p> + +<p>After an audience of considerable length, Alimami retired with several +of his chiefs, and soon after I had a message that he wished to see me in +another part of his dwelling. I had previously noticed to him that I +intended shortly to embark for my country. When conducted to his presence, +he very emphatically enquired "if what I tell him be true?" I replied "it +was; but that I go to do him and his countrymen good; that he know this was +the second time I look them, but never forget them." "We all know that," he +replied, "but white man that come among us, never stay long time; you be +good man, and we wish you live among us—How many moon you be gone from +us?"—"About ten moon; how would you like to go with me, Alimami?"—"I +like that much, but black man not be head enough to do what white man +does;" and putting his hand to his bosom, he took from it a piece of gold +in the form of a heart; and said, "take that for me." To have refused it +would have been an insult; I therefore accepted it; adding, "that I would +tie it to fine riband, and wear it when I look my country, to let +Englishmen see what fine present he make me." He was quite pleased with the +idea, and expressed his satisfaction with great fervency.</p> + +<p>Soon after, I offered to take my leave, and was accompanied by him and +his chiefs to the gate, where I bade him adieu, and passed through the +town, paying my respects to its inhabitants, and among others, to the +schoolmaster, whose venerable appearance, and superior intelligence, +excited my respect and esteem.</p> + +<p>Upon our return to Marriba's house, we were happy to partake of a +country mess of rice, boiled with fowls, palm oil, and other compounds. The +chief could not be prevailed to eat with us, but attended us with great +assiduity during our meal. The imperial guard accompanied us to our canoe, +and we returned to Miffaré without accident.</p> + +<p>The following morning we proceeded to the branch of the Rochell, which +we found more diversified and picturesque than the Port Logo, and its +borders better inhabited.</p> + +<p>Proceeding up this branch, and visiting the chiefs in our way, and the +inhabitants of a number of villages, we arrived at Billy Manshu's Town, a +little chief of very considerable intelligence, and who treated us with +great hospitality: here we slept.</p> + +<p>We arose early, and pursued our course up the branch, passing one of the +most regular built towns I have observed in Africa, now Morrey Samba's, but +formerly Morrey Bunda's Town. Morrey Bunda was originally a Manding, and +<i>fetish</i> maker to Smart, the chief who commands an extensive country +on that side of the Rochell branch towards the Sherbro, and rose into +notice and influence: he is now dead. The town is surrounded by a mud wall, +and at the entrance, and upon each angle of the oblong square which +encloses it, there are towers erected for the purposes of defence. The +wall, with the towers, completely obscures the buildings which form the +town, and serve as a guard against any depredations of enemies, while it +shelters the inhabitants from the effects of their arrows or musquetry. +Morrey Bunda has displayed in his plans of fortifications, considerable +ingenuity, considering the circumstances he had to provide against, and the +predatory nature of African wars, which are uniformly to surprise the +inhabitants of a village or town while asleep, or in any other unguarded +state, seldom or ever coming to a general engagement in the open country, +but acting under the protection of some ambush, or other place of security, +which, while it is calculated to conceal their numbers, serves as a retreat +from their successful opponents.</p> + +<p>Leaving Morrey Samba's we passed by a number of other villages, until we +arrived at one of Smart's trading towns, called Mahera, situated upon an +eminence, and commanding a most delightful prospect of the meandering +course of the river, interspersed with islands, displaying a great +diversity of appearance.</p> + +<p>Smart has very wisely chosen this spot, as it is not only a charming +situation, healthy, and delightful, but well situated to command a very +extensive internal trade in camwood and ivory, besides being contiguous to +the Sherbro, from whence a great portion of the camwood is procured, and +situated on the principal branch of the Sierra Leone. In addition to these +local advantages, he has recently opened a path with the interior, +communicating with the Foolah country, which is entirely under his +influence, and which he can open and shut at pleasure. It would be of +incalculable advantage to any operation to secure the friendship of this +chief: he possesses a very superior mind, and, from his connection with +Bance Island, has acquired a knowledge of European ideas and manners seldom +to be met with among any of the chiefs on this part of the coast. From the +various opportunities I have had to consult Smart on his general sentiments +relative to his country, and the freedom of intercourse I have had with +him, I am well persuaded that he would be a powerful and intelligent +auxiliary in promoting the civilization of his country, upon a liberal +principle, calculated to its condition, and having a tendency to eradicate +its barbarism; but he is one, of many more upon this quarter of the coast, +who have no reliance upon the attempts that have been made, and deplores, +with regret, that through the want of a correct knowledge of the +dispositions of his countrymen, an ignorance of the nature of the evil to +be removed, and the invidious principles which constituted the +establishments that have been formed to promote this beneficent +undertaking, his country is still excluded from the light of truth, and the +refined arts of civilized life.</p> + +<p>From Mahera we proceeded to Rochell, another of Mr. Smart's towns, more +insular, where I expected to have met him, in conformity with an +arrangement previously made, to visit him at his towns, and see, as he +observed, his country fashion. Upon our reaching this point of our +expedition, we were saluted by a numerous assemblage of chiefs and natives, +going to join my friend Smart in one of his wars with his opposite +neighbours and rivals, the Cammarancies, inhabiting the country towards the +Port Logo. The cause of quarrel was, that these people had seized upon the +rafts and canoes which brought the camwood over the falls higher up the +river, and had demolished several storehouses belonging to Smart and his +people, engaged in that trade. Smart, with a part of his forces, had +crossed the river only an hour before, and another division were embarking +to join him at a place of rendezvous upon the enemy's territory, with the +intention of cautiously approaching during the night to some of their +towns, and surprising them before they had arisen from sleep. Nothing could +exceed the novelty of this sight; the chiefs and their followers were armed +with their bows and arrows, and other rude implements of war, and +completely in their native character; in addition to their native weapons, +some had musquets, procured from Europeans in trade, swords, and various +other manufacture, supplied by traders, exhibiting an appearance, of which +no idea can be formed, without a personal knowledge of this barbarous +people. The chiefs, in particular, were covered with <i>gris-gris</i> and +<i>fetishes</i>, a mixture of feathers and other preposterous materials, +calculated to obliterate any trace of human appearance, and possessing the +virtue, as they conceived, of shielding them from danger. Solemn +<i>palaver</i> is always held upon these occasions, and their +<i>gris-gris</i> makers, <i>fetish</i> men, and priests, exorcise their +absurd decorations, which, in their estimation, operate as guardian angels +in the hour of difficulty and peril.</p> + +<p>Having occasion to visit a gentleman resident at some distance, we left +our canoes at Rochell, and proceeded on foot. <i>Cabba</i>, one of the +chiefs, accompanied us with a guard, being apprehensive, as he observed, +that "bad might happen us, as war live in the country." We passed through a +remarkably fertile country, presenting an infinite variety of natural +productions. Our path was frequently lined with pine-apples, in all the +luxuriance of nature; but amidst this animating landscape, we beheld +deserted villages, ravaged by the ferocious hand of man; and all the traces +of barbarous devastation. We fell in with several armed parties, with whom +I conversed upon the subject of the war, which appeared to be of a +predatory nature, and the consequence of insatiate avarice and barbarous +habits.</p> + +<p>At length we arrived, much fatigued, at Mr. Green's (at Massou), with +whom we rested for the night, receiving every kindness and attention in his +power to bestow. I am indebted to this gentleman for a variety of useful +information relative to a wide extent of country. His education and +acquirements are of the first class, and I could not view such a man, +insulated from polished society, which he was qualified to adorn, and shut +up in the wilds of Africa, among barbarians, without a mixture of pain and +surprise; nor did I depart from him without sympathy and regret, after he +had confided to me his motives, and the outlines of his life, which were +marked with eventful incidents, and extraordinary occurrences.</p> + +<p>It was my object to have proceeded from Massou to Rocond, the principal +town of Smart's residence, and from thence to penetrate to the falls of the +river, which, from every information I received, exhibit a sublime scene; +but, on account of the disturbed state of the country, and that chiefs +absence, I was obliged to give up my intention, and return to Rochell, from +whence we rowed down the river to the town of our little hospitable chief, +Billy Manshu; where we stayed the night. The following day we arrived safe +at Miffaré; and although Smart had given orders at Mahera to stop all +canoes, we were suffered to pass; the chiefs observing, "that they knew we +would not tell their enemies, when we came among them, what we saw them +do." Had we been strangers, it is more than probable we should have fallen +victims to the fury of these barbarians, who, in the towns we passed, were +excited to a savage fierceness, highly descriptive of the natural ferocity +of the African character.</p> + +<p>At Miffaré, formerly occupied by Monsieur Berauld, as previously +noticed, who had lately paid the common debt of nature, and who was here +buried by his own desire, I had the opportunity of ascertaining a singular +custom prevalent in this country towards the dead, and which strongly +elucidates the prevailing ideas of its inhabitants, relative to the +immortality of the soul and a future state.</p> + +<p>After Monsieur Berauld's interment, his women, and the head people of +the town, assembled round the grave occasionally, for a series of days, +requiring every evening, from Mr. Hodgkin, a candle to light his grave, +which they kept burning during the period of their mourning, under the idea +that it would light him in the other world. In addition to this, a still +more singular rite was performed on this occasion, by Alimami, of the Port +Logo, and a numerous assemblage of natives, who sacrificed a bull to the +departed spirit of Berauld, who was held in great estimation among them. +From authority I cannot doubt, I am persuaded that when slaves have been +redundant, human sacrifices have been offered to the manes of their +favourite chiefs and princes. This horrid custom, which is even extended, +in many of the districts of Africa, to the productions of the earth, is a +most serious subject to contemplate, and a feature of barbarism, pregnant +with melancholy consequences to that class of beings, whom a late +legislative act has abandoned to contingencies, and the uncontrolled power +and avarice of other nations.</p> + + + +<hr> +<H1><a name=CHAPTER_VI>CHAPTER VI.</a></H1> + + + + +<p><i>Return to Bance Island.—General Observations on the Commerce, +Religion, Customs, and Character of the Natives upon the Windward +Coast.—An Account of the requisite Merchandize for Trade, the best Mode of +introducing natural Commerce and Civilization into Africa, &c.</i></p> + + +<p>The morning after my last arrival at Miffaré I returned to Bance Island; +before I leave it, it may not perhaps be considered as inexpedient at this +stage of my narrative, to submit to my readers an account of the present +state of commerce upon the Windward Coast of Africa, the merchandize used +therein, a general outline of the religion, customs, and character of its +natives, and the system I conceive eligible, and consistent with the +claims of humanity, by which their intellectual powers may be improved, and +their enslaved state ameliorated; while our commercial ascendency may be +preserved with this region of the earth, and our enemies excluded from +those important advantages, which it only requires intelligence and +enterprise to unfold.</p> + +<p>In accomplishing this important part of my duty I beg leave to state, +that my reflections are the result of much deliberation upon the subject, +derived from manifold sources of information, and that I am the zealous +advocate of the radical abolition of the slavery of the human kind. The +motives by which I am actuated are, a philanthropic feeling for my species, +Christian principles, humanity, and justice: however I may differ, in the +means I shall propose, from many truly benevolent characters, yet I trust +that they will do me the justice to consider that my intentions are +congenial with theirs in the cause of humanity.</p> + +<p>I shall confine myself to a digested summary of actual observations on +the trade, laws, customs, and manners of the people I have had occasion to +visit; nor shall I attempt to enter into a minute detail on subjects +already ably delineated to British merchants, and with which they are +intimately conversant; but I shall treat of those branches of commerce +which have been hitherto confined to local knowledge, and not generally +known; submitting to the superior powers of the legislature, the +incalculable advantages to be derived by their interference to promote the +agricultural and commercial establishments upon the maritime districts of +Africa, as the only appropriate measure to attain a facility of intercourse +with the interior, and to enlarge the circle of civilised society.</p> + +<p>If my endeavours tend to increase the commerce of my country, and +eventually to emancipate the African, my design will be accomplished, and +my fondest hopes will be gratified.</p> + +<p>In pursuance of my plan, I shall first detail the present number of +slaves, and dead cargo, annually exported, upon an average, from the +Windward Coast of Africa, &c. from the information acquired from the +traders of most intelligence in respective rivers, and from my own +observation.</p> +<br> + +<table> +<tr><td></td><td></td><td></td><td></td><td></td><td></td><td></td><td>Amount</td></tr> +<tr><td></td><td></td><td></td><td></td><td></td><td></td><td></td><td>Sterling</td></tr> +<tr><td>NAMES OF PLACES</td><td>A</td><td>B</td><td>C</td><td>D</td><td>E</td><td>F</td><td>£</td></tr> +<tr><td>——————————-</td><td>———-</td><td>——</td><td>——</td><td>———</td><td>——</td><td>——</td><td>————-</td></tr> +<tr><td>River Gambia, and</td><td></td><td></td><td></td><td></td><td></td><td></td><td></td></tr> +<tr><td>Island of Goree . . .</td><td>2,000</td><td>15</td><td>—</td><td>—</td><td>150</td><td>—</td><td>60,250</td></tr> +<tr><td>Rio Noonez. . . . . .</td><td>600</td><td>20</td><td>—</td><td>—</td><td>—</td><td>—</td><td>19,000</td></tr> +<tr><td>Rio Pongo . . . . . .</td><td>2,000</td><td>30</td><td>60</td><td>—</td><td>—</td><td>—</td><td>52,000</td></tr> +<tr><td>River Sierra Leone,</td><td></td><td></td><td></td><td></td><td></td><td></td><td></td></tr> +<tr><td>adjacent Rivers,</td><td></td><td></td><td></td><td></td><td></td><td></td><td></td></tr> +<tr><td>and Isles de Loss,</td><td>3,200</td><td>15</td><td>200</td><td>800</td><td>—</td><td>—</td><td>82,250</td></tr> +<tr><td>inclusive . . . . . .</td><td></td><td></td><td></td><td></td><td></td><td></td><td></td></tr> +<tr><td>River Sherbro . . . .</td><td>500</td><td>—</td><td>200</td><td>300</td><td>—</td><td>—</td><td>18,000</td></tr> +<tr><td>—— Gallunas. . . .</td><td>1,200</td><td>—</td><td>80</td><td>—</td><td>—</td><td>—</td><td>26,000</td></tr> +<tr><td>Cape Mount to</td><td></td><td></td><td></td><td></td><td></td><td></td><td></td></tr> +<tr><td>Cape Palmas . . . . .</td><td>2,000</td><td>20</td><td>—</td><td>—</td><td>—</td><td>100</td><td>48,000</td></tr> +<tr><td></td><td>———-</td><td>——</td><td>——</td><td>———</td><td>——</td><td>——</td><td>————</td></tr> +<tr><td></td><td>11,500</td><td>100</td><td>540</td><td>1,100</td><td>150</td><td>100</td><td>305,500</td></tr> +</table> + +<p>A-Slaves, B-Ivory, C-Camwood, D-Rice, E-Bees Wax, F-Malaguetta Pepper + +<p>[**Note: table reformulated with labels below to fit in 70 spaces +width]</p> + +<p>Estimating slaves at 20<i>l</i>. each; ivory, 350<i>l</i>.; camwood, +25<i>l</i>.; rice, 10<i>l</i>.; wax, 100<i>l</i>.; and Malaguetta pepper, +10<i>l</i>. per ton, at first cost upon the coast of Africa; the whole +produces the sum of 305,500<i>l</i>. sterling; to which may be added a +three-fold export to leeward, which will make an aggregate amount of nearly +<i>one million</i> sterling. In addition to the foregoing exemplification, +we have to contemplate the great multiplicity of natural productions, +abounding in this extent of region, namely, indigo, numerous plants for +staining, cotton in wild exuberance, cocoa, coffee, and aromatic plants, +&c. &c. Wild bees are so extremely numerous, that wax forms an important +article of trade which might be considerably increased; substances proper +for making soap are also to be found in great abundance, raw hides, more +especially in the Gambia, and the countries insular to the Rio Noonez and +Rio Pongo; gold is procured from Bambouk, and tobacco is found in every +direction, which might be greatly increased by cultivation and an improved +soil; cattle, poultry, Guinea hens, different species of game, fish, with +other animals; fruits, and a variety of vegetable productions, calculated +to satisfy every luxurious want and desire. To these objects of commerce +may be added, the now important article of sugar, which might be raised to +a great amount, in various districts of Africa, as the climate is +propitious to the growth of the sugarcane, which, under proper cultivation, +might be raised in great perfection.</p> + +<p>The lands upon the banks of the Gambia, the Rio Noonez, the Rio Grande, +the Rio Pongo, in the Mandingo country, Sierra Leone, Sherbro, &c. are +universally allowed to be extremely fertile in many places, and abundant in +vegetation and population.</p> + +<p>These countries produce various hard woods, well adapted to cabinet work +and ship building, and are singular in their qualites and properties.</p> + +<p>The most remarkable are, 1st. the cevey, or kinney wood, which grows +about the size of the oak, in England, and may be cut into planks of 20 +feet by 15 inches. Its texture is something of the ash grey and mahogany, +variegated with stripes, fancifully disposed, and is therefore adapted to +cabinet work; its qualities for ship building are peculiar, having the +virtue of resisting the worm and vermis, so destructive to shipping in +tropical climates, and corroding iron; it grows in great abundance. Any +quantity of this wood put into water sufficient to cover it, will, in a few +hours, produce an unctuous substance floating on the top, resembling +verdigrise, and of a poisonous quality.</p> + +<p>Secondly, the dunjay wood, rather coarser in the grain, but harder in +quality than the Spanish Bay mahogany. It possesses the same peculiarities +as the cevey or kinney, in resisting the worm in salt water, and corroding +iron. It may be procured in any quantity. And, Thirdly, the melley wood, or +<i>gris-gris</i> tree, another species of mahogany, abundant in growth, +having a more rare quality than the foregoing, resisting the worm in both +salt and fresh water; it is extremely hard, and its juices so poisonous, in +the premature state, as to cause instant death.</p> + +<p>The manifold and neglected productions of this extraordinary continent +require only to be developed, and when the useful arts of Europe are +introduced here, ample recompense will attend the benevolent undertaking, +natural history will be much enlarged, and mankind be greatly benefited. +The claims of humanity, the distinguished part it has taken in an unnatural +and much to be deplored commerce, loudly unite with a wise policy, in one +impressive appeal to the feelings of the more refined inhabitants of +Europe, and to none more than those of Englishmen.</p> + +<p>The goods adapted to African commerce are,</p> + +<p><i>East India goods</i>—consisting of bafts, byrampauats, chilloes, +romals, neganipauts, niccanees, red and blue chintz, Guinea stuffs, +bandanoes, sastracundies, &c.</p> + +<p><i>Manchester goods</i>.—Cotton chilloes, cushtaes, neganipauts, +photaes, romal handkerchiefs, silk handkerchiefs, &c. <i>Linen +Britanias</i>, slops, spirits, tobacco, guns, swords, trade chests, cases, +jars, powder, umbrellas, boats, canvas, cordage, pitch, tar, paints, oil, +and brushes, empty kegs, kettles, pans, lead basons, earthenware, hardware, +beads, coral, iron bars, lead bars, common caps, Kilmarnock ditto, flints, +pipes, leg and hand manilloes, snuff boxes, tobacco boxes, cargo hats, fine +ditto, hair trunks, knives, looking glasses, scarlet cloth, locks, shot, +glass ware, stone ware, provisions, bottled ale and porter, &c. &c.</p> + +<p>The foregoing general enumeration may serve to convey a just conception +of the various manufactures requisite in the African trade, and the +different branches to which it is allied, yeilding support to a numerous +body of merchants, manufacturers, artizans, and many of the labouring class +of the community.</p> + +<p>Generally speaking, the Africans are unacquainted with specie as a +circulating medium of commerce, although they form to themselves an ideal +standard, by which they estimate the value of the commodities in barter; +this, however, fluctuates on various parts of the coast.</p> + +<p>From Senegal to Cape Mesurado, the medium of calculation is termed a +<i>bar</i>; from thence to the eastward of Cape Palmas, the computation is +in <i>rounds</i>; and on the Gold Coast in <i>ackies</i> of gold, equal to +4<i>l</i>. sterling, and of trade only half that value.</p> + +<p>At Goree the bar, under the French, was 4, pieces of 24 sous, and 1 of +6; but at present the bar is considered a dollar.</p> + +<p>The bar is by no means a precise value, but subject to much variation; +the quantity and quality of the articles materially differing in many parts +of the coast, and frequently on rivers of a near vicinity; for example, six +heads of tobacco are equal in trade to a bar, as is a gallon of rum, or a +fathom of chintz.</p> + +<p>A piece of cloth which, in one place, will only pass for 6 bars, will in +others fluctuate to 10; hence the trader must form an average standard, to +reduce his assortment to an equilibrium.</p> + +<p>The following are the barter prices now established throughout a +considerable extent of the Windward Coast; but it is to be observed, they +are subject to fluctuation from locality of situation and other +circumstances.</p> +<br> + +<table> +<tr><td>1 blue baft</td><td>6 bars</td></tr> +<tr><td>1 bonny chintz & stripe</td><td>8</td></tr> +<tr><td>1 white baft</td><td>6</td></tr> +<tr><td>1 byrampaut</td><td>6</td></tr> +<tr><td>1 chilloe</td><td>6</td></tr> +<tr><td>1 bijudapaut</td><td>6</td></tr> +<tr><td>1 cushtae</td><td>5</td></tr> +<tr><td>1 bonny blue romal</td><td>5</td></tr> +<tr><td>1 niccanee</td><td>5</td></tr> +<tr><td>1 sastracundie</td><td>4</td></tr> +<tr><td>1 India cherridery</td><td>6</td></tr> +<tr><td>1 taffety</td><td>15</td></tr> +<tr><td>1 cottanee</td><td>12</td></tr> +<tr><td>1 dozen britannias</td><td>8</td></tr> +<tr><td>1 piece of bandanas</td><td>6</td></tr> +<tr><td>1 barrel of powder</td><td>60</td></tr> +<tr><td>1 fowling gun</td><td>8</td></tr> +<tr><td>1 burding</td><td>6</td></tr> +<tr><td>1 soldier's gun</td><td>5 bars</td></tr> +<tr><td>1 buccanier ditto</td><td>6</td></tr> +<tr><td>1 dozen of cutlasses</td><td>8</td></tr> +<tr><td>1 sword blade</td><td>2</td></tr> +<tr><td>1 iron bar</td><td>1</td></tr> +<tr><td>1000 arangoes</td><td>30</td></tr> +<tr><td>1 bunch of point beads</td><td>1</td></tr> +<tr><td>1 bunch of mock coral</td><td>1</td></tr> +<tr><td>Red pecado 3lb. for</td><td>1</td></tr> +<tr><td>Seed beads, ditto</td><td>1</td></tr> +<tr><td>Battery ditto</td><td>1</td></tr> +<tr><td>1 Mandingo kettle</td><td>1</td></tr> +<tr><td>1 dozen of hardware</td><td>3</td></tr> +<tr><td>1 bason</td><td>1</td></tr> +<tr><td>1 ton of salt</td><td>60</td></tr> +<tr><td>1 fine hat</td><td>3</td></tr> +<tr><td>Tobacco, 6lb. to</td><td>1</td></tr> +<tr><td>Rum, per gallon</td><td>1</td></tr> +</table> + + +<p>Prime ivory is procured at a bar per lb, and <i>escrevals</i>, or pieces +under 20lb. 1 bar for each 1-1/2lb.</p> + +<p>As the natives are unacquainted with arithmetic, their numerical +calculations are carried on by counters of pebbles, gun-flints, or +cowries.</p> + +<p>After the number of bars is decided upon, a counter, or pebble, &c. is +put down, representing every bar of merchandize, until the whole is +exhausted, when the palaver is finished; and, as they have very little idea +of the value of time, they will use every artifice of delay and chicane to +gain a bar.</p> + +<p>In matters of less consequence they reckon with their fingers, by +bending the little finger of the right hand close to the palm, and the +other fingers in succession, proceeding to the left hand, concluding the +calculation by clapping both the hands together; and if it requires to be +extended, the same process is repeated.</p> + +<p>Among the Foulahs in particular, commercial transactions are carried on +with extreme tardiness; a <i>palaver</i> is held over every thing they have +for barter. The season in which they chiefly bring their trade to the coast +is during the dry months, and they generally travel in caravans, under the +control of a chief or head man. The head man of the party expects to be +lodged and accommodated by the factor, and before they enter upon business, +he expects the latter <i>to give him service</i>, or a present of kola, +Malaguetta pepper, tobacco, palm oil, and rice; if they eat of the kola, +and the present is not returned, the head man begins the trade, by making a +long speech, in which he magnifies the difficulties and dangers he has had +to surmount, &c.; mutual interpreters report this harangue. The trade for +rice is settled with little delay, but every tooth of ivory requires a new +palaver, and they will dispute for a whole day for a bar with the most +determined firmness.</p> + +<p>When the palaver and trade is gone through, they again expect a present, +and if they are pleased with the factor, they march off singing his +praises, which they communicate to all they meet on the road.</p> + +<p>The annual return from this commerce in colonial productions, has been +from <i>two</i> to <i>three millions sterling</i>; for although large +remittances have been made in bills to the African merchants, yet these +bills have been provided for in produce by the planters. Politically +considered, it will appear, that its regeneration might have been more +appropriately the progressive work of time; and humanely viewed, it will +also appear, from my subsequent remarks, that by those means alone the +African can be freed from his shackles, and his condition efficaciously +improved.</p> + +<p>But to proceed with the intention of this chapter, I shall next make +some remarks on the religion, customs, and character of the natives of the +Windward Coast.</p> + +<p>The natives on this part of the coast, and indeed throughout Africa, are +in general extremely superstitious; they believe in witchcraft, +incantations, and charms, and in certain Mahomedan doctrines, adopted from +itinerant devotees and priests of that persuasion, who are numerous among +them, and make a trade of selling charms. The Baggoes, Nellos, Susees, +Timinees, &c. occasionally worship and offer sacrifices to the Devil, and +are equally confused in their conception of the Supreme Being, of whose +attributes they entertain an assemblage of indistinct ideas, of which it is +impossible to give any clear description. They will tell the traveller with +great apathy, "they never saw him, and if he live he be too good to hurt +them." Their acts of devotion are the consequence of fear alone, and are +apparently divested of any feelings of thankfulness or gratitude for the +blessing they receive from the good Spirit which they suppose to exist. The +Devil, or evil spirit, which they suppose to exist also, claims their +attention from the injury they suppose him capable of inflicting, and is +worshipped under a variety of forms; at one time in a grove, or under the +shade of a large tree, consecrated to his worship, they place, for the +gratification of his appetite; a <i>country mess</i>, a goat, or other +offering of this nature, which they may conceive to be acceptable to his +divinity, who, however, is often cozened out of the offering by some +sacreligious and more corporeal substance, to whose nature and wants it is +more congenial; at some periods great faith is attached to their +<i>fetish</i>, as an antidote against evil; and at others the alligator, +the snake, the guava, and a number of other living animals and inanimate +substances are the objects of their worship. Like other unenlightened +nations, a variety of external beings supply the want of the principles of +Christianity; hence the counterfeit adoption and substitution of corporate +qualities as objects of external homage and reverence.</p> + +<p><i>Fetish</i>, derived from the word <i>Feitico</i>, denotes witchcraft +among the majority of the maritime nations of Africa: this superstition is +even extended to some Europeans after a long residence in that country, and +is an expression of a compound meaning, forming an arrangement of various +figures, which constitute the objects of adoration, whether intellectually +conceived, or combined with corporeal substances; even the act of devotion +itself; or the various charms, incantations, and buffoonery of the priests +and fetish makers, who abound among them. In short, it is an incongruous +composition of any thing dedicated to the purpose; one kind of fetish is +formed of a piece of parchment containing an expression or sentence from +the Koran, which is associated with other substances, sewed up in a piece +of leather, and worn upon several parts of their bodies. Another kind is +placed over the doors of their huts, composed of distorted images besmeared +with palm oil, and stuck with feathers, some parts are tinged with blood, +and the whole is bedaubed with other preposterous applications.</p> + +<p><i>Ghresh</i>, or <i>Gresh</i>, is an expression in the Arabic tongue, +meaning to expel or drive away, and, as I apprehend, by the repetition of +the word, is the expression from which the African <i>gris-gris</i> is +derived, consisting of exorcised feathers, cloth, &c., short sentences from +the Koran, written on parchment, and enclosed in small ornamented leathern +cases, worn about their persons, under the idea that it will keep away evil +spirits, and is a species of <i>fetish</i>.</p> + +<p>The Mandingos, or book-men, are great <i>fetish</i> makers, many of them +being well versed in the Arabic tongue, and writing it in a neat character. +From the impression of their superior learning and address, their influence +and numbers daily increase, many of them having become rulers and chiefs in +places where they sojourned as strangers, The religion they profess in +common with the Foolahs, Jolliffs, and other Mahomedan tribes, is +peculiarly adapted to the sensual effiminacy of the Africans: the doctrines +of Mahomet contained in their book I have procured from a very intelligent +chief in the Rio Pongo, and when I compare his account with others of his +nation on this part of the coast, the Foolahs, and the Mahomedan tribes in +the vicinity of the Island of Goree, I am persuaded the following is the +portion of the Islam faith believed by them.</p> + +<p>1st. That God is above all, and not born of woman.</p> + +<p>2d. That Mahomet stands between God and man, to intercede for him; that +he is superior to all beings born of woman, and is the favorite of God. +And,</p> + +<p>3d. That he has prepared for the meanest of his followers and believers +<i>seventy-two bouris</i>, or black-eyed girls of superior beauty, who are +to administer to all their pleasures, and participate with them in the +enjoyment of the fountains and groves of paradise, and in the gratification +of those appetites congenial to their nature and existence in this world. +This nearly amounts to the entire belief of Mahomet's doctrine, which is +nothing but a compound of this eternal truth and necessary fiction; namely, +"that there is only one God, and Mahomet is the apostle of God:" from +hence, in the idiom of the Koran, the belief of God is inseparable from the +apostolic character of Mahomet. The fertile and politic imagination of this +impostor admirably adapted his tenets to the prevailing and established +customs; he tolerates polygamy, &c. and to add to the sanctity of his +pernicious doctrines, he represents himself as having been visited by the +angel Gabriel, in the cave of Hera, where he communicated to him the +precepts of the Koran, in the month of Ramadan, which he enjoins as a fast; +he interdicts wine, and inculcates the necessity of praying five times a +day, facing the holy city, &c.; forming together a system of the most +insidious character towards the establishment of pure Christianity. In the +performance of the duties of their belief, the Mahomedan nations of Africa, +upon the coast, are exact and scrupulous, but they have no idea of the +intellectual doctrines of the Islam faith, or the happiness described by +Mahomet as enjoyed by superior saints in the beatitude of vision; they are +as perplexed on this subject as they are in their conceptions of the divine +nature, and discover a surprising contraction of mental powers, when +considered as human beings endowed with reason.</p> + +<p>The nations, upon the Windward Coast, are in general little influenced +by belief in their actions. Forgiveness of injuries they conceive +incompatible with the nature of man; and a spirit of retaliation is very +prevalent and hereditary, descending in succession from father to son. They +are extremely jealous of white men, designing, ferocious, and cowardly; but +there are, notwithstanding, a great variety of localities existing among +them, and it will be found that their climate and habits are closely +assimilated.</p> + +<p>To the Africans, the indispensible articles of life are reduced to a +very narrow compass, and they are unacquainted with the insatiate wants of +Europeans. The heat of the climate renders cloathing an incumberance, and +occasions a carelessness with regard to their dwellings: for the former, +they require only a stripe of linen, and their <i>gris-gris</i>; while a +building of mud, covered with an interwoven and thatched roof, forms the +latter, which is reared with little labour, and, when circumstances require +it, is abandoned without much regret.</p> + +<p>The food of the Negro consists chiefly of rice, millet, &c. seasoned +with palm oil, butter, or the juices of the cocoa-nut tree mixed with herbs +of various kinds. They frequently regale themselves with other dishes, +kous-kous, and country mess, to which they sometimes add fowls, fish, and +flesh, heightened in the flavour by a variety of savory applications.</p> + +<p>A contracted system of agriculture, conducted by their women and slaves, +in a very few days prepares the <i>lugars</i>, or cultivated fields; and +the harvest is distributed by the elders of the community, according to the +portion and wants of the society of the village, or is stored up to be +portioned out as circumstances may require.</p> + +<p>Water is the ordinary drink of the Negroes; they, however, regale +themselves with a wine extracted from the palm tree, as before described, +which, in the luxury of indulgence, they frequently suck through a very +small kind of cane, until inebriety and stupidity absorb them in a perfect +state of apathy. They have also a very pleasant beverage, extracted from +the cocoa nut and banana tree, besides several descriptions of beer, +fermented from various roots and herbs. In the Rio Pongo, and adjacent +countries, especially in the Bashia branch of that river, the Soosees +extract a fermented and intoxicating liquor from a root growing in great +abundance, which they call <i>gingingey</i>, something similar to the sweet +potatoe in the West Indies. The distillation is commenced by forming a pit +in the earth, into which a large quantity of the root is put, and covered +with fuel, which is set on fire, and kept burning until the roots are +completely roasted: the roots are then put into paloons, and beat, exposed +afterwards in mats to the sun, by which they acquire a taste similar to +honey; and are afterwards put into hampers for distillation. This is +performed by making a funnel of sticks in a conical form, interwoven +together like basket-work; the funnel is filled with the material, and +water poured upon it; the succulent moisture therefrom passes through a +tube, and yields a liquid similar in colour to coffee, and of a violent +purgative quality. It remains in this state about twenty-four hours, and is +then incorporated with a quantity of the ashes of rice-straw, which excites +a bubbling fermentation like boiling water, after which it becomes fit for +use. In forty-eight hours it returns again to its purgative state, which +interval is employed in drinking most copiously, until overtaken by +insensibility and intoxication. The root, in its roasted state, is an +excellent medicine for colds.</p> + +<p>Indigo and cotton grow in wild exuberance almost every where, without +culture, and the women collect such quantities as they consider requisite +for their families, which they prepare and spin upon a distaff; the thread +is woven, by an apparatus of great simplicity, into fillets, or pieces from +six to nine inches broad, which are sewed together to any width, required +for use. The indigo, in its indigenous state, and a variety of other +plants, colour these cloths, an ell of which will serve as a dress for a +Negroe of the lower class.</p> + +<p>They manufacture cloths, of a very fanciful pattern, from various +substances. I have some from the rind of the cocoa-nut, of great beauty, +and a fine texture; also cloth, fine mats, baskets, hats, ornaments, +quivers, arrows, &c. which all prove the taste and ingenuity of the +natives.</p> + +<p>The Negro is attached by love about his thirteenth year, and from +sixteen to twenty he seeks the object of his affection. This choice +generally continues in his confidence during life; and in proportion as he +acquires wealth, he associates with her several concubines, who generally +live cordially together. From this acquisition to his household, he is +considered rich; and it is a common expression with the Negro to say, "such +a man be rich, he have much woman." When an object excites his desire, he +consults his head woman, who, without any apparent suspicion of rivalry, +gives her assent, and forwards his suit; but she is displeased when not +consulted; and it is not uncommon that the object falls a victim to her +jealousy. Celibacy is a state almost unknown in Africa; and when it does +occur, it is considered as a degradation.</p> + +<p>The Negroe's existence is almost a gratuitous gift of nature; his wants +are supplied without laborious exertion, his desires are gratified without +restraint, his soul remains in peaceful indolence and tranquillity, and his +life glides on in voluptuous apathy and tranquil calm: he has few +solicitudes or apprehensions, and he meets the stroke of fate with perfect +resignation.</p> + +<p>In the countries which I have visited, and, as I understand from others, +every principal village or town has its <i>bantaba</i>, or +<i>palaver-house</i>, which I have before described. In this house, or +under the shade of some venerable tree, all ranks occasionally assemble in +groups, from sun-rising to sun-set, and pass the time in chit-chat, or in +conversation on public affairs. Their subjects are inexhaustible, and their +tittle-tattle is carried on with surprising volubility, gaiety, and +delight; their time thus occupied is so seducing, that they separate with +great reluctance, sometimes passing the entire day in this, pratling, +smoaking, and diversion: night, however, terminates these amusements: They +assemble in the open air during the dry season, and under the +palaver-houses in the wet, where they form themselves into dancing +companies, generally during half the night, and not unfrequently the whole +of it. Their instruments of music are upon a very rude construction, +consisting of a <i>tabila</i>, or drum, hollowed out from a piece of wood, +and covered at each end with a bull's hide, producing a most barbarous +noise, accompanied by a <i>baba</i>, or rattle, loud shouts, palaver, +songs, and violent gesticulations, forming a system of confused uproar, +unmusical, and ungraceful. Their motions are irregular, sometimes in +violent contortion, and at others voluptuous and slow. Nothing can be done +without a palaver; and at the change of every dance, he from whom the +proposition originates, makes a solemn harangue over the musical +instruments, which is generally descriptive of some warlike action or +exploit, when they again give themselves up with rapture to the pleasures +of the dance, the females in particular, whose actions and shew of +luxuriant pleasure are highly offensive to delicacy, exhibiting all the +gradations of lascivious attitude and indecency. At this period of unusual +delight, they are applauded by the men with rapturous ardour; but suddenly +a feeling of shame strikes the minds of the young creatures with a +humiliating sense of their display, and amidst these plaudits they hastily +retire to the matrons, who are spectators of the scene, and hide their +blushes in their bosoms. So strongly implanted is this ingenuous and +amiable modesty in youth, which is frequently laid aside when engaged in +the vortex of pleasure, that it is one of the highest charms of beauty; and +wretches only, degraded by debauchery and systematic vice, are capable of +insulting this sentiment. A scrupulous regard to modesty and truth will not +permit me to pursue the description of these amusements farther than +observing, that they prepare them for a profound and tranquil sleep on +their mats, from whence they arise at the dawn of day cheerful and easy. +Thus infancy and youth are singularly happy, and mothers attend their +offspring with maternal feeling and delight; they are neither disturbed by +painful commands or restraint; and it is a picture of perfect happiness to +see these children of nature in sportive groups and infantine diversion. +This happy infancy and gay youth is peculiarly calculated to organise a +vigorous manhood, and a firm old age; and, I am persuaded, that these are +the physical causes why the Negro race are so muscular in body, and +procreative of their species. In some countries innoculation is practised; +but the small pox is not so common, or dreadful in its effects, in these +countries as in Europe. The greatest term of their lives may be computed at +from sixty to seventy years, it seldom or ever happening that life is +prolonged beyond that period in this part of Africa. They retain their +vigour, and enjoy a permanent and regular state of health until the last; +and I have observed a venerable chief of advanced years having the +possession of a dozen of young handsome wives, and the father of a young +progeny, whose legitimacy was never disputed or suspected. In Europe the +last stage of man is a daily anticipation of dissolution; but in Africa, +declining years are only insensible approaches to the termination of a +journey, the event of which he considers as the end of life, unconscious of +the future, but as a fatality equally attached to all the creation.</p> + +<p>The picture I have endeavoured to delineate may serve to convey an idea +to the mind of the moral and physical state of Africa, which, undisturbed +by ferocious barbarism, fierce hostilities, and horrid customs, convey a +blissful and happy state of being; but, alas! we must now take another +view, and contemplate these beings in the most degrading state, absorbed in +superstitious idolatry, inhuman customs, and shut out from the civil arts +of life, and the mild principles of Christianity. Their customs, their +hostilities, slavery, and the mode I have conceived requisite to +infranchise this unhappy race of men, I shall attempt to represent in the +following chapter; and happy shall I feel if the description excites the +attention and interference of more capacious minds on this subject, +interesting to so large a portion of the human race, and to the claims of +humanity.</p> + + + +<hr> +<H1><a name=CHAPTER_VII>CHAPTER VII.</a></H1> + + + + +<p><i>The Mode of Trial by</i> Ordeal <i>and</i> Red Water <i>in +Africa.—The Wars of its Inhabitants.—The State of Barbarism and Slavery +considered.—The Condition of the Africans will not be improved by a late +Legislative Act, without further Interference.—Salutary Measures must be +adopted towards the Negroes in the Colonies.—A System suggested to abolish +Slavery in Africa, and the Slave Trade in general, and to enlarge the +intellectual Powers of its Inhabitants.—The proper Positions to effect an +Opening to the Interior of Africa, and to display to the World its manifold +Resources.</i></p> + + +<p>Trial by <i>ordeal</i> in Africa is a punishment for petty thefts and +delinquincies. Trial by <i>red water</i> is generally applied to crimes of +greater magnitude. After the usual ceremonial of calling a palaver, the +operation is performed by heating a piece of iron in the fire, the hand of +the accused is dipped into a viscous preparation, and the iron is +immediately drawn horizontally over the palm of the hand. If the judges +(one of whom is always the executioner) have previously determined, in +defiance of all the evidence, to prove the culprit guilty, the consequence +is that the flesh is seared; but if they are predisposed to acquit him, the +iron is dexterously applied so as to absorb the unctuous surface on the +hand without affecting it, and a sentence of not guilty is pronounced.</p> + +<p>Trial by <i>red water</i> consists in making the accused drink a +quantity of water, into which is infused the poisonous juice of the melley +or <i>gris-gris</i> tree; this is prepared by these <i>equitable</i> +judges, and applied upon the same fraudulent principles as in the trial by +the <i>ordeal of fire</i>; it is, however, less resorted to. If the unhappy +object of suspicion is affected in such a manner as they consider as a +proof of guilt, his brains are knocked out upon the spot, or the body is so +inflated by the pernicious liquid that it bursts. In either of these +catastrophes all his family are sold for slaves. Some survive these +diabolical expedients of injustice, but the issue is uniformly slavery. +When chiefs of influence, guilty of atrocity and fraud, become objects of +accusation, the ingredient is of course qualified so as to remove its fatal +tendency. Hence justice seldom or ever in this country can punish powerful +offenders, or shield the innocence of the weak and unprotected.</p> + +<p>The iniquity and oppression sanctioned by these trials, is a dreadful +consequence of their avarice and inhumanity, for it is a fact that slaves +are created thereby, and human sacrifices offered to that spirit, which +they consider as their tutelar guardian: it is a subject which humanity +should seriously contemplate in the relinquishment of the slave trade, +whether, by the hasty adoption of that measure, before the intellectual +powers of the people are improved by civilization, this barbarous evil may +not be increased. When I closely enquired of the chiefs and natives +relative to these savage customs, they uniformly admitted the fact, "that +such live in their country," but with their characteristic dissimulation, +always denied having perpetrated these horrid acts, and shifted the +diabolical practice to some other nation or tribe, adding, "that only bad +men do that thing."</p> + +<p>Circumcision is practised among men, and a certain infliction on women, +not, however, from religious motives, but to guard against the consequences +of a disease not uncommon among them. The infliction upon women is the +result of infidelity, or a sacrifice of chastity to loose gratification. As +a preliminary, they retire to the <i>bunda</i>, or penitentiary, and are +there secluded from all sexual intercourse. When the season of penitence is +over, the operation is performed by the rude application of two stones, +fashioned and sharpened for the purpose; this obliterates all delinquincy, +and on their return to the world they are considered as restored to virgin +purity.</p> + +<p>Wars in Africa originate from a variety of causes; in forming a correct +estimate of these, it is necessary to consider its localities and +situation. The inhabitants of this quarter of the earth, more particularly +those of the district now under consideration, compose numerous tribes and +nations, whose various views and interests excite jealousies and +contentions, which, aided by the passions peculiar to a barbarous people, +inevitably produce hostilities, and the effusion of human blood.</p> + +<p>What we have hitherto known of this country undoubtedly proves that wars +are carried on with the most sanguinary violence: their prisoners, by the +customs of the country, are consigned to massacre, slavery, and +sacrifice,<a name="FNanchor_1_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_3"><sup>[1]</sup></a> to gratify the avarice, vanity, and cruelty of their chiefs; +one of these passions must be predominant, and therefore the question is, +which of them is the least pregnant with evil? It cannot admit of a doubt +that those who are victims to avarice meet a more mild and humane fate, in +falling into the hands of Europeans, than the unhappy portion who are +sacrificed to vanity and cruelty; and it is equally true, that since the +interior nations have been enabled to exchange their slaves for European +merchandize, the number of victims to the latter passion has decreased. I +am far from being the advocate of slavery, but I am stating a fact, and +leave it to the reader to form his own conclusions. Where confirmed habits +and immemorial custom is to be supplanted, it is certainly requisite to be +well acquainted with the nature and character of the natives, which I have +not here introduced in an exaggerated shape, but infinitely within the +bounds of their savage ferocity.</p> + +<p>From these sources alone have arisen the expedients attendant upon the +slave trade; kidnapping and petty warfare form a very unimportant branch of +the barbarism which governs the inhabitants of Africa, and their enslaved +condition.</p> + +<p>Viewing this in the mass of moral evil which disgraces the character of +man, it will be found that it is even disproportioned to the estimated +population of Africa, which, from the best authority, has been stated at +upwards of 160 millions; and to apply the consideration to our own +situation, it will be found, that the number of executions and +transportations from the United Kingdom, in proportion to its population, +is infinitely greater than the number of slaves exported from the shores of +Africa, to its numerous inhabitants. Unquestionably the slave trade has +extricated a number of human beings from death, whom the horrible +sacrifices before described consigned to a barbarous exit, and has been a +cause, though an immoral one when applied to Britons, of extricating many +victims, who otherwise would have been annually sacrificed: humanity has, +therefore, some consolation in this polluted branch of our commerce, which +in its nature is barbarous and inhuman.</p> + +<p>Theories become extremely dangerous when they are impracticable, or +misapplied, and are pernicious in their consequences from the fallacious +measures they establish. In Africa crimes are punished by forfeitures, +slavery, or death; they are however rare; but accusations are often used to +procure slaves, whether for domestic purposes, sale, or sacrifice to their +customs. Death, as a punishment, is seldom the penalty of condemnation; and +if the culprit is rich, he can purchase his security. The alleged crime of +witchcraft, or magic, is a common means by which the chiefs increase their +accusations; and, consequently, the number of slaves. Adultery, and other +violations of social order, are punished by fine, but absolution is to be +obtained by money.</p> + +<p>The crimes by which the chiefs obtain the condemnation and disposal of +their subjects, are nearly all imaginary; for few exist which, under their +laws, are considered as acts of turpitude. The abuse of authority, the +action of violent passions, barbarous customs, ferocious habits, and +insatiate avarice among the chiefs, augment the number of captives and +victims, and the operation of these is much greater in the interior than in +the maritime districts; but this leads me to the next part of my subject, +namely, that a late legislative act will not, without farther interference, +improve the condition of the African.</p> + +<p>By the hasty conclusion of that measure, the unhappy African is now +abandoned to his fate; and we have surrendered him into the hands of other +nations, less acquainted with his character and situation. Former acts of +parliament had adopted wise and humane measures to ameliorate the condition +of slaves on board British vessls, so that their wants, and even their +comforts, were administered with a liberal hand; and much more might have +been done to augment these comforts. Instead of now being the object of +matured and wise regulations, the captive is exposed to the rapacity of our +enemies, who will derive great advantages from our abandonment of the +trade, and those who are incompetent, from the want of local knowledge, to +ease his shackles, and sooth him in his state of bondage. The magnitude and +nature of the disease, required a comprehensive system of policy to +eradicate it; and although in its nature and tendency of great moral +turpitude, alteratives were required calculated to its inveterate character +and established habits. The condition of the African, the probable +advantages he was to derive by our abandonment, and the circumstances of +commerce, were all considerations of important consequence.</p> + +<p>Even virtue itself must modify to its standard many considerations of +moral evil, more particularly in a political point of view, that it may the +more effectually establish its principles; nor can it, amidst the +corruptions of society, exercise at all times its functions with due +effect; neither has an instance occurred where its prudence and discretion +was more imperiously called upon, than in that now under consideration. It +had immemorial custom in Africa to contend with, inveterate barbarism, and +savage ferocity. This system had interwoven itself with our commercial +existence so closely, as to require the most sagacious policy to eradicate +it; at the same time it was the highest consideration for our magnanimity +to interfere for that being whose thraldom and calamitous state had so long +contributed to our wealth and commercial prosperity, before we abandoned +him to contingencies.</p> + +<p>Enough may have been said in the foregoing pages, to prove that +something yet remains to be done to effect the manumission of the African, +and preserve the important branches of commerce, which necessity has allied +with the slave trade; and I entreat my readers to give this subject that +dispassionate consideration which its merits require, and beg to assure +them, that I obtrude my suggestions upon their notice with great submission +and diffidence, trusting that what may appear in my system deficient, +others more competent will embrace the subject, and excite the beneficence +of my country in behalf of the African, promote civilization and Christian +society in his country, display its arcana of wealth to the world, and open +a path to its commerce, free and unobscured.</p> + +<p>The colonization of the coast of Africa, in my estimation, is +impracticable, from its climate being uncongenial to the constitution of +Europeans, and from the system of slavery existing among its inhabitants, +without the employment of natives in their present condition. The requisite +authority to establish a system of labour, upon remunerative principles, +and with industrious vigour, cannot otherwise be supported; and a +misapprehension on this principle has been one of the great causes, as I +conceive, of the failure of the Sierra Leone Company in establishing their +agricultural objects. They attempted, in prosecution of their humane +project, an agricultural establishment on the Boolam shore, opposite to +their colony, where they had a choice of good lands: they proceeded upon +the principles of their declaration, "that the military, personal, and +commercial rights of blacks and whites shall be the same, and secured in +the same manner," and in conformity with the act of parliament which +incorporated them, more immediately that clause which relates to labour, +namely, "not to employ any person or persons in a state of slavery in the +service of the said Company;" but they have totally failed; and in one of +their reports, among other reasons, it is acknowledged, that for want of +authority over the free natives whom they employed, their agricultural +establishment on the Boolam shore was unsuccessful. Let not those worthy +and truly respectable characters, whose humanity has induced them to risque +an extensive property <i>unhappily expended without effect</i>, here +consider that I mean to militate against their views, but rather may they +acquiesce in the truth, and devise other expedients to promote their +beneficent objects, and to <i>assimilate the natives</i> of the country +with their views. They have not only to lament a nonproductive profusion of +their property, but an <i>alienation of the natives</i>, occasioned by a +misconception of their character, by distracted councils, and the narrowed +ideas of the agents they employed to prosecute their humane endeavours, but +also by a desolate waste in their colony, without a regular feature of +cultivation in its vicinity.</p> + +<p>At Bance Island, where slavery and agriculture were united under one +superintendance in conformity with the established laws of the country, the +mechanic arts among the natives have arrived at a greater degree of +perfection than any situation I have visited upon the Windward Coast; and +had the intellectual powers of their minds been more amply considered and +cultivated, they would have exhibited an uncontrovertible example of the +capacity and intelligence of the African. Although, as I have previously +noticed, a superintendance directed only to the mechanical arts, applied to +the local necessities of the Island, has had the most visible effects, yet, +in proportion as their privileges have been extended, authority has become +more inefficient, and their labour less unproductive in a pecuniary point +of view, for want of a previous enlargement of their intellectual powers, +and a progressive operation of freedom commensurate thereto.</p> + +<p>I can bestow no panegyric adequate to the sense I entertain of that +active goodness which prompted the Directors of the Sierra Leone Company to +the undertaking I have alluded to; but with all due deference I conceive +that they have mistaken the practicable grounds, upon which the seeds of +civilization, and the principles of Christianity, can be effectively +displayed to the African. The Directors had to contend with a peculiar +co-mixture of passions, licentious habits, and hereditary vice; to +eradicate these, and to rescue the natives from their natural state, +alluring and progressive measures were necessary, founded upon an accurate +investigation of their characters and policy, and not by the fulminations +of intemperate zealots, and theoretical speculators. The beneficent views +of the Sierra Leone Company have been unaccountably perverted, and have +been the distorted instruments in prolonging, rather than extirpating, the +barbarism of the African: it is therefore a subject of great regret to the +benevolent supporters of this establishment, that an unprofitable +expenditure of their property is the only existing perpetuity of their +humane interference. Will it be found that the Company's agents have +introduced the arts of civilization among any tribe or nation in Africa, +that they have made any progress in agriculture, although possessing a very +extensive tract of fertile lands, or that they have converted them into any +of the regular features of cultivation? Have they explored or brought into +action any of the attainable and lucrative branches of natural commerce, +abounding in the region they inhabit, or do they employ a single ship in a +regular trade with the mother country? Will it be found that they have +unfolded the doctrines of Christianity, in their native purity and +simplicity, to the unenlightened African, or converted, by their preaching +and example, any tribe or nation among them?—The spacious waste is +destitute of the appearance of domestic industry, or respectable character; +it exhibits only a tissue of indolence, hypocritical grimace, petulant and +assuming manners, and all the consequences of idleness and corrupted +morals. To succeed in this beneficent undertaking, and to expunge the +inveterate nature of the African, his prejudices, and inherent customs, +progressive approaches upon his present condition are indispensibly +requisite, under the attractive influence of agriculture, manufactures, +commerce, and navigation.</p> + +<p>Accidental events, concurring with political causes, frequently render +the best concerted measures abortive, and retard their progress, but +unquestionably the above-mentioned are the means by which the African may +be manumitted, and his condition improved. The wisest laws operate but +slowly upon a rude and fierce people, therefore the measures of reformation +are not to be successfully performed by a coup-de-main, nor are the +hereditary customs of Africa to be erased by the inflammatory declamations +of enthusiasm, but by a liberal policy and the ascendency of the polished +arts of society. Commerce, the chief means of assembling, and agriculture +of assimilating, mankind, must first assume their fascinating and alluring +attitudes to the African upon his native plains. Too impetuous and indolent +to observe the forms, or enter into the requisite details of business, he +contemplates the effect, without investigating the cause; but, when he +discovers his own comparative wretchedness, he will be roused from his +innate indolence, his powers will be stimulated, and his emulation excited +to attain a more exalted state.</p> + +<p>Imperceptible and circumspect approach at innovation upon the laws, +customs, and country of Africa are indispensibly requisite, its chiefs and +head men must be cajoled, their jealousies dextrously allayed, and their +sordid avarice flattered by the prospect of superior gain.</p> + +<p>During the infancy of colonization, the employment of native labour must +be tolerated, as is evident by the unsuccessful attempts of the Sierra +Leone Company, and may appear from what I have already urged. Independent +of political considerations, of much weight, the uncongeniality of the +climate of Africa to the constitution of the European colonist opposes an +insurmountable barrier to the exercise of laborious avocations; therefore +it is necessary to employ natives, in conformity with the usage of the +country; and a recognition of property should exist in their persons; for +it is obvious, from experiment, that authority cannot otherwise be +established, or the necessary labour performed to produce an adequate +return. While this invidious exigency obstructs the immediate manumission +of the slave, it does not the less accelerate it, agreeable to the sound +and humane policy adapted to his condition; but, on the contrary, is +necessary to his complete emancipation; for he must first be taught the +nature of the blessings of freedom, his intellectual faculties must be +expanded, and the veil of barbarism gradually removed, to prepare him to +participate in its enjoyment.</p> + +<p>The system of colonization which I, with all submission, submit to the +legislature, and to my country, is this:</p> + +<p>1st. To employ natives in whom a recognition of property shall exist, as +unavoidable from the present condition of Africa.</p> + +<p>2d. To procure them from as wide an extent of the most powerful nations +and tribes upon the sea coast, as is practicable, and from the Slatees or +slave merchants from the interior countries.</p> + +<p>3d. That a requisite number of these should be fit for the present +purposes of labour, and for an immediate initiation into the mechanic arts, +as applicable to the local circumstances of the colony, and the useful +purposes of life.</p> + +<p>4th. That a proportionate number of males and females should form the +complement, from the age of 5 to 7 years, and be placed in a seminary of +instruction, under the inspection of the government of the colony, and +under tutors approved of in England.</p> + +<p>5th. That this establishment of a seminary of instruction in Africa, +under the administration of the colony, shall have for its bases the +initiation of these children, as calculated to their sexes, into the +rudiments of letters, religion, and science, and the progressive operation +of education adapted to the useful purposes of life.</p> + +<p>6th. That when thus prepared, the necessary avocations of domestic +economy, agriculture, and mechanics, employ the next period of their +existence, under the superintendence of the European colonist.</p> + +<p>7th. When arrived at the period of mature years, and thus instructed, to +become the object of legislative enquiry and investigation as to their +attainments, character, fidelity, and mental improvement.</p> + +<p>8th. That such as produce clear testimonials of capacity, knowledge, and +acquirement, become immediately objects of manumission.</p> + +<p>9th. That all proceedings in this process of education and emancipation, +become matters of record in the colony, subject to such control and +investigation as his Majesty's Government may, in its wisdom, appoint, from +time to time, to guard against the corruption and prejudices of the +legislative authority of the colony.</p> + +<p>10th. That thus endowed, they are to be dismissed to their respective +countries and nations, employed as agents in various capacities of +civilized pursuit, and to promote the commercial and agricultural views of +the colony, and disseminate their allurements among their tribe, which, +under the direction of the unerring dispensations of divine providence, +might, in process of time, diffuse civilization and Christianity throughout +the utmost region of Africa, its inhabitants become members of civilized +and Christian society, and their country, in process of time, be extricated +from its barbarism.</p> + +<p>It is for the legislature to devise a system adapted to the colonies, +calculated to their local situations, and to remove the invidious +distinction now subsisting between the African there, and in his native +country; by these means the entire Negro race may participate in the +blessings of civilization and revealed religion, in every quarter where our +extensive dominion and influence exist.</p> + +<p>By adopting the <i>first proposition</i>, a sufficient authority would +be maintained to enforce the labour necessary to produce profit, and +competent to excite emulation, which is a powerful passion in the character +of the African; for in every effort he discovers a strong spirit of +competition.</p> + +<p>Through the medium of the 2d proposition, the natives of an extentive +district would be collected under the instruction of the European colonist, +and, in process of time, would become the happy instruments of initiating +their, tribe or nation into the arts of civilization, and in promoting the +commercial interests of the colony, which may eventually be diffused +throughout Africa.</p> + +<p>By the 3d expedient, an adequate portion of effective labourers would be +obtained to commence vigorous operations.</p> + +<p>In consequence of the 4th, 5th, and 6th, a portion of children of both +sexes would be procured at a moderate rate, in their unadulterated +condition, who would be susceptible of any impressions, free from the +control of their parents, and the contamination of their example, into +whose tender minds might be instilled the principles of moral virtue, +religious knowledge, and the civil arts of life.</p> + +<p>Through the adoption of the 7th and 8th, the objects of humanity might +be realized, and slavery, with the slave trade, make a natural exit from +the shores and country of Africa.</p> + +<p>By the 9th, the corrupted and interested endeavours of the colonists to +retard the work of emancipation would be controlled; and, by the patronage +of Government, pecuniary resource and support be obtained, in aid of +individual and corporate endeavours, the requisite population from the +parent state acquired, and the indispensible authority established to +secure success to any further attempts at colonization upon the coast of +Africa.</p> + +<p>And through the 10th expedient, an extended population would enjoy the +advantages of instruction and example, and our ascendency and commerce be +increased by a rapid process, which would predispose the natives to throw +open the avenues of their country to our enterprize and research.</p> + +<p>Thus may the long seclusion of the African from the light of truth and +revealed religion be annihilated, his inveterate jealousies allayed, his +nature regenerated, and his barbarism fall before the emanations of +enlightened existence. In the interim, an unobscured path to the interior +of his country will be opened, and our commerce therewith flow through a +less polluted channel; while the Negro, now the victim of barbarism in his +native land, may be extricated from his thraldom, and received into the +circle of civilized life, which he has hitherto been excluded from, and to +which providence, without doubt, in its mysterious and incomprehensible +administration of human affairs, has designed him to arrive at.</p> + +<a name="Footnote_1_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_3">[1]</a><div class="note"><p> A portion of them being destined to domestic slavery, as +victims to revenge, and as sacrifices to their barbarous customs.</p></div> + + + + +<hr> +<H1><a name=CHAPTER_VIII>CHAPTER VIII.</a></H1> + + + + +<p><i>What the Author conceives should be the System of Establishment to +make effectual the Operations from Cape Verde to Cape Palmas.—Reasons for +subjecting the Whole to one Superior and controlling Administration.—The +Situations, in his Estimation, where principal Depots may be established, +and auxiliary Factories placed, &c. &c.</i></p> + +<p>What I have already said respecting the coast from Cape Verde to Cape +Palmas, may be sufficient to convey a tolerably just and general idea of +the religion, customs, and character of the inhabitants, the commercial +resources with which it abounds, and the system to be pursued to unite +commerce with the claims of humanity in one harmonious compact.</p> + +<p>I am persuaded there is no situation on the Windward Coast of Africa +more calculated, or more advantageously situated, than the river of Sierra +Leone to influence and command an enlarged portion of the continent of +Africa.</p> + +<p>This part of Africa, as ascertained by Mr. Park, communicates, by its +rivers to the Niger, and introduces us to the interior of this great +continent; and, from other sources of information, Foolahs, Mandingos, &c. +I am enabled to confirm the statement given in one of the reports of the +Sierra Leone Company, that from <i>Teembo</i>, about 270 miles interior to +the entrance of the Rio Noonez, and the capital of the Foolah king, a path +of communication exists through the kingdoms of Bellia, Bourea, Munda, +Segoo (where there are too strong grounds to believe that the enterprising +spirit of Mr. Park ceased its researches in this world), Soofundoo to +Genah, and from thence to Tombuctoo, described as extremely rich and +populous. The distance from Teembo to Tombuctoo the natives estimate at +about four moons' journey, which at 20 miles per day, calculating 30 days +to each moon, is equal to 2,400 miles. This distance in a country like +Africa, obscured by every impediment which forests, desarts, and intense +climate can oppose to the traveller, is immense; and when it is considered +that in addition to these, he has to contend with the barbarism of the +inhabitants, it is a subject for serious deliberation, before the +investigation of its natural history and commercial resources is +undertaken. But it also displays an animating field of enterprise to obtain +a free intercourse with this unbounded space, and if, at a future day, we +should traverse it with freedom and safety, the whole of Africa might +thereby be enlightened, and its mysteries developed to the civilized +world.</p> + +<p>I have therefore conceived the expediency of submitting all the +enterprises and operations of the United Kingdom to the influence of a +supreme direction and government in the river of Sierra Leone. No doubt +many contradictory opinions may prevail upon this subject, and upon the +outline I have previously submitted on the most eligible plan of +introducing civilization into Africa; but the detail of all my motives and +reasons would occupy too large a space; I shall therefore proceed to +instance some local circumstances and political reasons why I make the +proposition.</p> + +<p>From what I have said respecting the path which Smart, of the Rochell +branch of the river Sierra Leone, has now under his authority, and can open +and shut at pleasure, communicating with the extensive country of the +Foolahs, whose king (as the Sierra Leone agents are well aware of, but who +was strangely and unaccountably neglected by them) is well disposed to aid, +by prudent application, all advances towards the civilization of his +country, it is evident that an immense commerce, extending northward to +Cape Verde, and southward to Cape Palmas, on the coasts, and from the +interior countries, might be maintained.</p> + +<p>By light vessels and schooners, drawing from 6 to 8 feet water, a +continued activity might be kept up in the maritime situations and rivers, +and a correspondence by land might be conducted by post natives, who travel +from 20 to 30 miles per day, to all parts of the interior countries.</p> + +<p>From the Island of Goree a correspondence with the river Gambia, and a +watchful vigilance over the settlement of the French in the Senegal would +be maintained both by land and sea, which, with a well chosen position, +central from Cape Sierra Leone, to Cape Palmas, would combine a regular +system of operation, concentrating in the river Sierra Leone. In addition +to these three principal depots, it would be requisite to establish +factories, and places of defence to the northward, on the rivers Scarcies +and Kissey, at the Isles de Loss, the rivers Dembia, Rio Pongo, Rio Grande, +Rio Noonez, and Gambia; and to leeward, on the rivers Sherbro, Galhinas, +Cape Mount, Junk river, John's river, Bassau, &c. or in other commanding +positions towards Cape Palmas. The expense of these auxiliary +establishments and forts would be inconsiderable, compared with the objects +they would attain, the chief requisite being regular and well supplied +assortments of goods, and a wise system of organization adapted to +circumstances.</p> + +<p>The navigation of these rivers, and habits of conciliation and +friendship with the chiefs resident upon them, and towards the interior, it +may here be perceived, are the only practicable measures, under the +auspicious control of Government, to retain our commerce with Africa, to +civilize its inhabitants, and explore its hidden wealth; and are the most +favourable, also, towards our operations in the countries on this +continent; while the various natives attached to this pursuit, would aid, +by wise management, in influencing the inhabitants, where our researches +and pursuits might carry us, and eventually conduct us to the centre of +Africa, from thence to the eastern shores of the Mediterranean, and the +banks of the Nile. I trust it will here also appear that the means of +acting, and the important advantages to be derived therefrom, are neither +illusive nor impracticable.</p> + +<p>It is to be lamented, that, in undertakings of this kind, men of limited +genius, of no experience in business, and incapable of acting with +unanimity, have been too frequently employed; who are governed more by +caprice than principle, and are consequently seldom able to reduce their +ideas into practice, and allow their passions to predominate over the +maxims of duty. Delicacy in managing the humours and interests of men is +the art requisite to successful operation.</p> + +<p>May it be remembered, that if civilization and our ascendency prevail in +Africa, and if the first essays we make to extend our relations with that +country are successful, we attach to the civilized world one-fourth of the +habitable globe, and its infinite resources. It therefore becomes a subject +of great magnitude, to commence and form a system of operation, to collect +the means of this immense extent, and the propriety of subjecting the whole +to a similarity of views, and co-operation under one controlling +administration.</p> + +<p>The precipitate abolition of the slave trade will reduce our affairs in +Africa, to a contracted and unproductive compass, in its present condition; +therefore if we attach any consequence to this quarter of the globe, it +will be expedient to endeavour to discover new scources [**Note: sources] +of commercial wealth and industry.</p> + +<p>Coffee, cotton, the sugar cane, cacao, indigo, rice, tobacco, aromatic +plants and trees, &c. first offer themselves to, our attention in wild +exuberance. And these, in my humble opinion, are the only rational means to +bring Africa into a state of civilization, and to abolish slavery.</p> + +<p>I recommend one administration under the patronage of Government, in the +Sierra Leone river, to guard against a want of unity in the number of petty +establishments that may otherwise exist on the coast, which from jealousies +and interests varying in different directions, produce operations of a +contradictory nature, and the first necessary step, is to be well +acquainted with the character and dispositions, of the natives, and the +localities of the maritime situations; for without combined enterprises, I +venture to predict we are now excluded from the commerce of Africa.</p> + +<p>I trust that my system will be examined in all its points, with +dispassionate impartiality before it is rejected; and if others more +competent to the task, devise more eligible means to promote the views of +humanity and commerce, I shall feel happy to have agitated the subject, and +rejoice at every means, to rescue so important a matter to the interests of +mankind.</p> + +<p>The commandant of Goree, I would propose as second in command, with +delegated powers to control all the operations in the countries bordering +on the Senegal, and the river Gambia; and an annual inspection directed by +him, throughout this district. The intermediate countries from the Rio +Noonez to Cape Mount would come immediately under the examination of the +central and administrative government of Sierra Leone, and the third +division under the authority of another command at a position chosen +between Cape Mount, and Cape Palmas.</p> + +<p>The military protection of the establishments, as I have here +recommended, would neither require great exertions, or numbers. Goree +certainly claims peculiar attention. Its fortifications should be repaired, +and the guns rendered more complete, and tanks for water should be in a +perfect state to guard against the want of this necessary article from the +main land, which, as before noticed, is liable to be cut off at any period +by the enemy. The convenience, airy and healthy construction of the +barracks and hospitals, claim the most minute attention and care. Under +skilful superintendance in these important departments, the health of the +troops might be preserved, and objects of defence realized with a very +inconsiderable military establishment. But as government must be well +informed by its officers, both military and naval in these points, it would +be indecorous in me to enlarge on the subject. Lieut. Colonel Lloyd, from +his long residence, and intimacy with a great portion of the Windward +Coast, possesses ample information. And the naval officers, who from time +to time have visited it, have, no doubt, furnished every document necessary +to complete an effective naval protection. A regular system of defence, +adapted to the jurisdiction of the Sierra Leone, and delegated +establishment between Cape Mount and Cape Palmas, are also obviously +requisite. The establishments that would be eligible for the purposes of +defence, are confined to the three foregoing principal positions, and they +have little to perform that is either difficult or embarrassing. It may +not, however, be considered as going beyond the bounds of propriety to +hint, that a great portion of the soldiers charged with defence, should be +able engineers and gunners, and a few cavalry might be occasionally found +useful. To complete the entire plan, and exclude our enemies from every +point, from Cape Blanco to Cape Palmas, the possession of the French +establishment at the Isle of Louis in the Senegal, is an abject of serious +contemplation, and no doubt might be attained with great facility by even a +small force. The unhealthy consequences to a military force attached to +this place might be greatly removed by superior convenience in the +hospitals, barracks, and other departments of residence; and in a +commercial point of view, its advantages are too well ascertained for me to +obtrude any observations.</p> + +<p>The bricks necessary for building may be procured in the country, lime +from oyster shells, &c. wood and other materials at a very inconsiderable +expense; and as the usual mode of payment, is in bars of goods, instead of +money, the nominal amount would thereby be greatly lessened.</p> + + + +<hr> +<H1><a name=CHAPTER_IX>CHAPTER IX.</a></H1> + + + + +<p><i>The Author embarks in the Ship Minerva.—Proceeds to the Rio +Pongo.—Disquisitions thereon.—Further Observations on the Inhabitants, +obtained from Natives of various Nations met with there.—The Isles de +Loss—Returns to Sierra Leone, &c.</i></p> + + +<p>Upon the 4th of June, 1806, I embarked at Bance Island, on board the +ship Minerva of Liverpool, bound upon a trading voyage to the Rio Pongo, +and other rivers to the northward, and on Thursday the 12th came to an +anchor at the upper forks, in the Rio Pongo, being the point at which the +branches of the <i>Bungra, Charleston, Constintia,</i> &c. empty +themselves; higher up the river are the <i>Sanga</i> and <i>Bashia</i> +branches, occupied by a chain of factories, and inhabited by various +nations and tribes. The principal factories for trade are on the +Constintia, about 40 miles up the river, Mr. Cummings's factory, at +Ventura; Mr. John Irvin's, at Kessey; Mr. Benjamin Curtis's, at Boston; Mr. +Frasier's, at Bangra; Mr. Sammo's, at Charleston; Mr. David Lawrence's, at +Gambia; Mr. Daniel Botefeur's, at Mary Hill; Mr. Ormond's, Mr. +Tillinghurst's, Mr. Gray's, in the Bashia branch; with various others of +inferior consideration.</p> + +<p>During my stay on this river, I visited the whole of these branches, and +in addition to personal investigation, I obtained much information from the +various conductors of these factories, and had a variety of opportunities +of communicating with many of the natives from the interior countries, who +are drawn hither by the extensive commerce of the Rio Pongo. In my +excursions on this river, I was generally accompanied by Captain William +Browne, of Liverpool, who was part owner of the Minerva, and had the sole +management of the concerns of her voyage; and I am happy to give him this +public testimony of the many obligations he conferred upon me, while on +this part of the coast, which unceasingly continued until my arrival in +England, by the way of the West Indies.</p> + +<p>The countries bounded by the Rio Pongo and the Gambia, are inhabited by +the Nilloes and various tribes, who carry on a considerable trade with that +river, the Rio Noonez, and Rio Grande, and inland to the two latter, is the +powerful nation of the Foolahs, possessing an extensive country, about 200 +miles in breadth from north to south, and 400 miles from east to west. +Teembo, the capital of the Foolah king, is about 270 miles inland from the +entrance of the Rio Noonez. The paths for trade and communication with the +interior, from this position, are at the king's pleasure, and he opens and +shuts them by his mandate. The Foolahs are tall, well-limbed, robust and +courageous, grave in their deportment, are well acquainted with commerce, +and travel over an astonishing space of the country. Their religion is a +mixture of Mahomedanism, idolatry, and fetishism. One of their tenets, +which inculcates the destruction of those they term infidels, is peculiarly +friendly to slavery, and as the greater part of their neighbouring tribes +are of that description, they are continually practising every violence, +and, are frequently engaged in wars. When I suggested to a chief of very +considerable intelligence, and one of the Foolah king's head men, whom I +met in the Rio Pongo, the enormity of their injustice to the surrounding +tribes, and how displeasing it was to the God they prayed to, his reply +was, "True, this be bad fashion to Foolah, or Mandingo man, but these +people we make war against never pray to God, nor do we make war with those +who give God Almighty service." While this barbarism exists, and the slave +trade is continued, humanity will have to, bewail the miserable condition +of the African slave. For this, and various other reasons that might be +urged, and considering the position and extensive influence of the Foolah +nation, their king claims a high consideration in a combined scheme of +establishment upon the coast.</p> + +<p>So impressed was this chief, of the beneficial advantages to be derived +from agriculture, that he tendered land, cattle, men, &c. to the agents of +the Sierra Leone Company, only requesting from them, in return, a delegated +superintendance; but, strange to tell, this disposition was not cultivated +nor improved; nor was the further offer of the king of Laby, and his high +priest, to place their sons under the protection of the Company, to be sent +to England and educated. A more important step could not have been taken to +attain the object of the Directors, than this of attaching the Foolah +nation to their interest.</p> + +<p>The women of this nation are handsome, and of a sprightly temper, and +their countenances are more regular than those of the common Negroes; the +hair in both men and women is much longer, and not so woolly, but they have +a most disgusting custom of forming it into ringlets, bedaubed with oil and +grease, which gives them a very barbarous appearance. The Foolah tongue, is +different from that of the surrounding nations, and its accent is more +harmonious.</p> + +<p>To the southward of the Rio Pongo, to Sierra Leone, lie the countries of +the Bagoes, Soosees, Mandingos, Timminees, and Boolams, all idolaters +except the Mandingos, who, like the Foolahs, associate in their religion a +mixture of fetishism and Mahomedanism. The Timminees are a more harmless +race of men than any of the other <i>infidel</i> nations, and their +dispositions are more calculated to industrious avocations than their +neighbours.</p> + +<p>I have already noticed the Mandingos, but, as I consider this nation and +the Foolahs of the first consequence, from their power and influence over +the other nations of this part of the coast, I shall add a few more +observations upon them.</p> + +<p>From what I have before stated, it will appear that the Mandingos are a +numerous people in Africa, gaining a daily influence and authority in the +district now under consideration. Besides the tribes of this people who +inhabit the countries between the Soosees and Timminees, there are various +others established in the country of Bambouk, and on the borders of the +Gambia, but the great body occupy an extensive territory above the sources +of that river.</p> + +<p>The empire of the Mandingos is not, however, so considerable as that of +the Foolahs, but from their increasing influence over the western +countries, from their docile and cunning dispositions, their knowledge in +merchandize, and acquirements in book-knowledge, their power must, in +process of time, be greatly increased; and it will be of the utmost moment +to civilize them, in order to acquire an influence over the more barbarous +states.</p> + +<p>Notwithstanding the cunning and dissimulation which characterizes these +people, they are generous, open, and hospitable, and their women are +aimiable and engaging: they are more zealous Mahomedans than the Foolahs; +their colour has a mixture of yellow, but their features are more regular +than the other nations of Africa which I have seen. The Foolahs, the +Mandingos, and the Joliffs, bordering on the Senegal, are the most handsome +Negroes on this part of Africa; the hair of the latter, however, is more +crisped and woolly, their nose is round, and their lips are thick; this +nation, in particular, is blacker than those approximating towards the +line; nor are the Negroes in the Krew coast, and towards Palmas, so black +as the nation I now speak of; which may tend to prove, that the colour of +the Africans does not arise from a vertical sun, but from other physical +causes yet unknown.</p> + +<p>There is a characteristic feature between the Mahomedan nations of +Africa, particularly those from the shores of the Mediterranean (whom I +have seen in my travels in that quarter) which, with their almost universal +profession of the Mahomedan religion, sanctions the idea, that this part of +the coast has been peopled from the eastern parts of the continent; but the +visible difference in religion, complexion, and feature, of the nations +towards Cape Palmas, give rise to other conjectures. An obvious difference +may be observed among these numerous nations; their language and their +customs are various, and are frequently without affinity or relation. From +the shores of the Mediterranean to this part of Africa, the majority of the +nations are Mahomedans, but towards Cape Palmas they are gross idolaters, +with a mixture Mahomedanism and superstition; many of them erect temples, +and dedicate groves to the devil. I have seen several of these, which +exhibit no outward sign or object of worship, but consist of stumps of +trees, in a circular form, covered with leaves, or a thatched roof, in the +centre of which stands a square altar of mud, without any image of +adoration. The reason assigned by them for their omission in this +instance, is, "that they never look the Devil or evil spirit, therefore +they do not know how to make any thing like him." To the good spirit they +neither make offering nor sacrifice, considering it as unnecessary to +obtain his favours, from his disposition to do nothing but good, which of +course he will administer to them.</p> + +<p>From every thing that I have observed, I conceive that idolatry, and +fetish worship, is the predominant religion of Africa, and that +Mahomedanism has been propagated by the Moore and Arab's. It may not here +be unopportune to introduce the Mandingo man's prayer, which I obtained +from a very intelligent chief of that nation: viz.</p> + +<i>Mandingo Arabic</i>.<br> +<br> +Subbohanalahe Rabila'ademy<br> +abodehé. Subbohanala rabila<br> +Allah. Subbohana arabe. Inye<br> +allamante, nafuse wa amutate<br> +sue wakefurella. Teyatelillahé<br> +tebates allivatuelub lahey.<br> +Sillamaleko ayo hanabehé, obara<br> +katolahe Sullamalina Ihannabé,<br> +lebadelahe Saliheneé"<br> +<br> +The address to Mahomet follows,<br> +viz.<br> +<br> +Sahadala elahe idillaha<br> +Mahomedo, arasoolo lahi<br> +man Mahomedo aboodaho.<br> +<br> +<i>In their idiom of English.</i><br> +<br> +God lives and, is not dust.<br> +God be master of all and is<br> +above his slaves. God knows<br> +his slave, and is not made of<br> +earth; but above all. (Before<br> +the next sentence, Subbohana<br> +arabe, &c. he bows twice.)<br> +<br> +Suppose I die, I can look you<br> +to-morrow, and thank you, and<br> +be out of trouble, and free from<br> +the Devil.<br> +<br> +(Teyatelillahé, &c. accompanied<br> +by a motion of the fingers)<br> +<br> +I beg in my prayers again,<br> +God, I may die to day, I look to<br> +thank you again to-morrow,<br> +my people and family may<br> +then get into trouble, and I<br> +then pray to you.<br> +<br> +To Mahomet.<br> +<br> +Mahomet be man, born of<br> +woman, the prophet of God,<br> +and speak to him for man.<br> + +<p>In this system of prayer there is a mixture of fetishism, Mahomedanism, +and a strong analogy to the Christian system; and it is no inconsiderable +argument in favour of the mediation of the Saviour, that in the worship of +heathen nations a mediator is uniformly associated with the object of +adoration. Virgil in his Aeneid, and other classic writers, illustrate a +belief of the ancient heathens in the omniscience of the deity, and they +clearly elucidate the importance they attached the mediatorial efficacy of +offerings and sacrifice.</p> + +<p>The form of worship adapted to the foregoing prayer, is to squat down +upon the ground, placing the palm of their hands flat thereon twice, +touching the earth the same number of times with their foreheads; then +rubbing their arms from the wrist to the elbow, with that which is +contracted by this operation, when the hands are applied to the face, and +the forefingers put into the ears.</p> + +<p>I have dwelt more minutely upon this people and their present condition +compared with the Foolahs, because I consider these nations have it much in +their power to shut and open the paths of intercourse with the interior +countries, therefore they become of importance, in the contemplation of any +pursuits upon this district of Africa.</p> + +<p>The Mandingoes inhabiting Galam, and the countries interior to the +Gambia, carry on the principal trade with those of Bambouk, &c. where gold +is procured. This precious metal is obtained from the surface of the +earth, and from the banks of the falls of the rivers in the rainy season; +it is first washed in a calabash; and when the water is poured off, the +dust, and sometimes large grains remain. The natives have no idea of +mining; but it appears from hence, that mines of this metal must exist, +which are concealed thro' the want of the arts of civilized life. The +Mandingoes speak of these countries with a great air of mystery, and are +extremely jealous, lest Europeans should obtain any information relative +to them: as they carry on almost exclusively, this branch of commerce.</p> + +<p>When I was in the Bashia branch of the Rio Pongo, a meteor of an +extraordinary kind appeared for two successive nights, directing its course +from NE. to SW. which put the natives in a most dreadful state of +consternation; the women fell into loud lamentations, the men beat their +drums, and sent forth the most horrid yells; imagining, that this barbarous +uproar would drive away the object of their fears. In eclipses of the sun +and moon, they repeat their prayers and sacrifices, with the same clamour, +under the notion that it will frighten away the monster which they suppose +to obscure these planets from their view. These superstitious notions have +the most powerful influence over the Negro's mind, and it is impossible to +dissuade or reason him out of them.</p> + +<p>From all I have stated, the great importance of these countries, to open +an intercourse with the interior of Africa, must appear. On the borders of +the Rio Pongo, and other rivers, excellent lands, forming hill, and dale, +are every where to be found, and well adapted to agricultural experiments. +With the <i>consent of the chiefs</i>, these might be obtained at a small +expense, and many of them with whom I have communicated, would gladly +embrace a wise interference; but they all complain, "white man not know +their fashion," intimating in very forcible language, that every caution +should be used, at innovation upon their laws, customs, and manners. Let +example first excite their admiration, and their barbarism will bow before +the arts of civilization, and slavery be gradually abolished.</p> + +<p>Before I conclude this chapter, I shall make some observations upon the +temperature of the western countries of Africa, situated between Cape Verde +and Cape Palmas, mention the principal diseases, and those which Europeans +are most exposed to on their first arrival in these countries, and give +general precautions against the dangers of the climate, &c.</p> + +<p>The inexhaustible fecundity of Africa holds out to Europeans strong +excitements to enterprise and research; but in the pursuit, the diseases +which prevail in this country should be well understood; and it would be +highly expedient, in any plans of colonization, to attach a medical staff, +as the natives have no idea of the art of surgery, except what arises from +the knowledge they have of the properties of herbs, and the superstitions +attached to their fetishism. In annexing this extraordinary country to the +civilized world, and exploring its stores of wealth, a burning climate, and +the diseases peculiar thereto, unite with the barbarism of its inhabitants +in opposition to the European; but by a strict observance of necessary +rules, and avoiding all kinds of excess, the formidable influence of the +sun may be resisted, and the pernicious effects of exhalations, which arise +from a humid, marshy, and woody country, may in a great degree be obviated; +and I am sorry to say, that for want of proper precaution and through +ignorance, fatal consequences more frequently occur, than from the +unhealthiness of the climate.</p> + +<p>The temperature from Cape Verde to Cape Palmas is extremely various from +the vertical rays of the sun, the nature of the soil, and the face of the +country.</p> + +<p>In the months from November to March, by Fahrenheit's thermometer, it +has been from 70° in the morning, to 90° at noon, in the shade; and nearly +the same variation has been observed at the river of Sierra Leone; and in +some places in the Foolah country it has been from 50° to 90°</p> + +<p>From July to October, the mean temperature in the river Gambia, by +Fahrenheit, has been from 90° in the morning to 100° at noon in the shade, +and during the same months at Sierra Leone from about 92° to 106°; but a +variety of local circumstances may give a greater or less degree of heat: +this however may serve to give a general idea of the temperature of these +countries. The island of Goree, for example, the island of Bance, and the +bay of Sierra Leone, are more healthy, enjoying the cooling sea breezes, +more than situations in the rivers more interior. The banks of all the +rivers in Africa, which I have visited, are enclosed by impenetrable +forests, marshes, and the closely combined mangrove tree, and it is but +seldom that the land forms an uneven dry surface on their borders. +Instances however in the Sierra Leone, Rio Pongo, &c. occasionally occur, +when the most picturesque scenery adorns the river.</p> + +<p>From May to August, hurricanes or <i>tornados</i>, before described, +prevail upon the Windward Coast, and this phenomenon is to be met with from +Cape Verde to Cape Palmas. The months from November to March are remarkable +for the prevalence of east and north-east winds. When these winds, which +are called <i>harmatans</i>, set in, they are accompanied with a heavy +atmosphere, and are of a dry and destructive nature. Every description of +vegetation is blasted by their influence, and every object, animate and +inanimate, feels their powerful effects; the skin is parched and dried, and +every feature is shriveled and contracted. The most compact cabinet work +will give way, the seams of flooring open, and the planks even bend. +Furniture of every sort is distorted; in short, nothing escapes their +dreadful power. The nights at this period are cool and refreshing.</p> + +<p>The months of July, August, September, and October are rainy, from the +equator to about the 20th degree of north latitude. Towards the equinoxial +they begin earlier, and make their progress to windward, but the difference +throughout the whole of the north tropic fluctuates little more or less +than 15 or 20 days. When the rains commence, the earth, before parched up +and consolidated into an impenetrable crust, by the powerful influence of +the sun and a long period of drought, is immediately covered with vermin +and reptiles of all sorts, creating a moving map of putrefaction. The +natives ascribe to these many of their diseases; but a further cause may be +added, namely, the great change from heat to cold, and the variations at +this season.</p> + +<p>The powerful influence of the sun, which at this period is almost +vertical, quickly dissipates the clouds which obscure the sky, and produces +an almost insupportable effect; but new clouds soon condense, and intercept +the solar rays; a mitigating heat follows; the pores are compressed, and +prespiration ceases. Variations succeeding so rapidly, are attended with +the most serious effects, and the most fatal consequences. And, lastly, the +noxious exhalations arising from the inaccessible forests and marshy swamps +which abound in Africa, and from numerous animal and vegetable remains of +the dry season, which cover the soil every where, are productive of putrid +effluvia. These rains, or rather periodical torrents of water, which +annually visit the tropics, invariably continue for about four months of +the year, and during the other eight it rarely happens that one single drop +falls; in some instances, however, periodical showers have happened in the +dry season, but the effects of these are scarcely perceptible on +vegetation; the consequence is, that the surface of the earth forms an +impervious stratum or crust, which shuts up all exhalation.</p> + +<p>When the rains cease, and the heat of the sun absorbs the evaporations +from the earth, which have been so long concealed during the dry season, a +most offensive and disgusting effluvia is produced, which then fastens upon +the human system, and begets diseases that in a short time shew their +effects with dreadful violence; and no period is more to be guarded against +than when the rains cease, for the intense heat completely impregnates the +atmosphere with animalculae and corrupted matter.</p> + +<p>The principal complaints which attack Europeans are, malignant nervous +fevers, which prevail throughout the rainy season, but they are expelled by +the winds which blow in the month of December; from hence these +<i>harmatans</i> are considered healthy, but I have heard various opinions +among medical men on this subject. Dr. Ballard (now no more), whose long +residence at Bance Island, and in Africa, and whose intimate acquaintance +with the diseases of these climates, peculiarly qualified him to decide +upon the fact, was of opinion, most decidedly, that the <i>harmatan</i> +season was not the most healthy.</p> + +<p>When this malignant fever takes place in all its virulence, its +consequences are the most disastrous; the symptoms are violent and without +gradation, and the blood is heated to an increased degree beyond what is +experienced in Europe; the ninth day is generally decisive, and this is a +crisis that requires the most vigilant attention and care over the patient. +I speak this from personal experience. In consequence of the fatigues I +underwent in the Rio Pongo, and other rivers, and having been for several +days and nights exposed to an open sea, and to torrents of rain upon land, +I was seized with this dreadful disorder, although I had enjoyed an +uninterrupted state of good health before, and on my arrival at the colony +of Sierra Leone was unable to support myself on shore; and had it not been +for the kind attention and skilful prescriptions of Dr. Robson of that +colony, with the friendly offices of Captain Brown, I should, in all +probability, at this stage have finished my travels and existence together. +Dysenteries frequently follow this fever, which are of a very fatal +tendency, and sometimes the flux is unattended by fever. This disease is +not uncommon in persons otherwise healthy, but it is productive of great +debility, which requires a careful regimen; if it continues to a protracted +period, its consequences are often fatal. In my own case, a dysentery +followed the fever, and reduced me to a mere skeleton. The dry belly-ache +is another dangerous disease, accompanied by general languor, a decrease of +appetite, a viscous expectoration, and fixed pain in the stomach. Opium is +considered an efficacious medicine in this disease, and is administered +with great perseverance, accompanied by frequent fomentations. An infusion +of ginger drank in the morning has frequently good effects. Flannel assists +excretion, and is found beneficial. <i>Tetanos</i> is also another disease +peculiar to Africa, and is a kind of spasm and convulsive contraction, for +which opium is the usual remedy.</p> + +<p>The Guinea worm is another disease among the natives, which is +productive of tumours upon the body and limbs, productive of great pain, +and is a contagious disease. This, however, is a subject without my +province, and which has been ably treated upon by gentlemen, whose +profession fully qualified them for the investigation. In addition to the +many valuable treatises upon tropical diseases, from high authority, I +would recommend Dr. Winterbottom's publication to the reader, as, embracing +highly important local information upon the diseases of the Windward +Coast.</p> + +<p>I have only touched on those which have more immediately come within my +personal observation. Too much care cannot be taken by Europeans in +drinking, and even washing in the waters of Africa, which should always +undergo a filtering preparation, and I am persuaded that great +circumspection should be used in this respect: these and other precautions, +with a generous, but regular system of living, would no doubt tend to +diminish the fatal tendency of diseases in Africa.</p> + +<p>Without doubt, a series of professional observations and enquiry into +the temperature and periodical variations of the climate of Africa, and its +diseases, would be attended with the most important advantages to the +science of physic, and might ultimately prove of incalculable consequence +in preserving the valuable lives of our brave soldiers and sailors, exposed +to all the ravages of tropical climates. Advantages that are well worth the +attention of government, which would train up a body of physicians and +surgeons, initiated into the mysteries of the diseases peculiar to those +countries, which might tend to preserve a large portion of human beings of +the utmost consequence and importance to the state; and it might form a +part in the organization of colonial establishments, to attach thereto an +institution of this nature.</p> + + + +<hr> +<H1><a name=CHAPTER_X>CHAPTER X.</a></H1> + + + + +<p><i>The Author visits the Isles de Loss.—Remarks on those +Islands.—Touches at the River Scarcies.—Arrives at the Colony of Sierra +Leone.—Embarks for the West Indies—Lands at the Colony of Demerory.—Some +Observations on the Productions of that Colony, Berbice, and Essequibo, and +on the Importance of Dutch Guiana to the United Kingdom, in a political and +commercial View.</i></p> + + +<p>On the 4th of July, I rejoined the Minerva at the Palm Trees, and on the +5th we weighed and passed the bar of the Rio Pongo, steering our course for +the Isles de Loss; and on the 6th came to an anchor off Factory Island.</p> + +<p>The Isles de Loss, in the Portuguese language meaning Islands of Idols, +are so called from the idolatrous customs of the natives, and are seven in +number; Tammara, Crawford's, Factory, Temba, White's, Goat, and Kid +islands. Tammara is the largest, but very difficult of approach, and has +few inhabitants; Crawford's has two factories for trade, belonging to +gentlemen formerly in the service of the Sierra Leone Company; and Factory +Island has an American establishment, conducted by a Mr. Fisk, These are +the principal (the others being little more than barren rocks), and they +abound in vegetation and natural productions. Squilly, or the sea onion, to +which great medicinal qualities are ascribed, grows in great abundance in +these islands, and might be procured in almost any quantity. Dr. Lewis, in +the <i>Materia Medica</i>, or <i>Edinburgh Dispensary</i>, describes the +peculiar qualities of this root.</p> + +<p>The positions of these islands are excellent for trade, but exposed to +the predatory excursions of the enemy, who have frequently pillaged the +factories established in Crawford's Island.</p> + +<p>On the 9th we again got under weigh, steering our course for the +entrance into the river Scarcies. The night was attended by tremendous +peals of thunder, lightning, and torrents of rain: we continued off and on +until the 12th, when we arrived outside Mattacont Island, bearing E. by S. +and the Isles de Loss in sight. At 2 P.M. I accompanied Captain Brown, with +five hands, in the pinnace, with the intention of running into the Scarcies +river. We sailed with a fresh breeze in expectation of gaining the entrance +by the approach of night; but we were obliged to anchor in the open sea, +amidst the most awful peals of thunder, while the whole heaven displayed +nothing but vivid flashes of lightning. Amidst this tremendous scene, +exposed to the mercy of the waves, with the prospect of being deluged by +rain, we secured our little bark and ourselves, in the best manner our +circumstances would admit, and committed ourselves to the all protecting +care and disposal of Providence. The mantle of night was soon spread around +us, the scene was grand and solemn, and we were at length hushed to rest by +the jar of elements, and the murmurs of the ocean. We awoke to contemplate +an azure sky, and the all-bountiful mercy of the Creator, in preserving us +from such imminent danger, to pursue our destination through breakers, +shoals, and sands.</p> + +<p>At day-light, with a breeze from the land, we weighed, and steered our +course S.S.E. for the Scarcies bar, but the wind shifting to the S.E. and +the ebb tide running strong, we were nearly driven out of sight of land; we +were therefore obliged again to anchor, and wait the change of tide. +Trusting to a sea breeze that had just set in, it being slack water, we +again weighed: the serenity of the weather did not long continue, but soon +increased to a brisk gale, accompanied by thunder, lightning and rain; we +were driven with great impetuosity through the narrow channel between the +bar and the shore, and from the shallowness of the water, the rollers +continually broke over our heads, threatening our destruction every moment. +Providentially we surmounted these dangers, and at 5 P.M. entered the +river, which is interspersed with islands and picturesque objects, that +could not be viewed without interest. I have been thus minute in describing +this excursive voyage, that others, whose business may hereafter lead them +to this river, may profit by the difficulties we experienced in this +critical and dangerous passage. We were obliged to come to an anchorage in +the river during the night, under a very violent rain, and the next day +arrived at Robart, the factory of Mr. Aspinwall.</p> + +<p>This gentleman, whom a previous acquaintance had induced me to visit, +received us with great hospitality and kindness. From a residence of +upwards of 32 years on the coast, he possesses much intelligence and +valuable information relative to this part of Africa, and I am indebted to +him not only on this, but on former occasions, for many interesting +particulars.</p> + +<p>The factories of trade in this river are,</p> +<br> + +<table> +<tr><td>Mr. Aspinwall,</td><td>Robart.</td></tr> +<tr><td>Boatswain,</td><td>A black chief and trader, above Robart.</td></tr> +<tr><td>Mr. Lewis,</td><td>Rocoopa, attached to Bance Island.</td></tr> +<tr><td>Mr. Gordon,</td><td>Thomas's Island, ditto.</td></tr> +</table> + + +<p>With a variety of small factories attached to those of Mr. +Aspinwall.</p> + +<p>On the 15th we took leave of Mr. Aspinwall, and embarked on board a +schooner he had the kindness to furnish us with; and after a very tedious +and tempestuous passage, arrived at Sierra Leone on the 21st, having had +contrary winds to contend with; whereas with a favourable breeze, the +passage is usually performed in a few hours.</p> + +<p>Here I was attacked with the epidemic fever of Africa, and experienced +the medical assistance and friendship I have previously noticed.</p> + +<p>In an exceedingly exhausted state, but much recovered, I again embarked +on board the Minerva, where I had a second attack of the fever, accompanied +by dysentery, which reduced me to the lowest state of existence; and after +one of the most distressing and disagreeable voyages I ever experienced, we +arrived in Demerary roads after a passage of 71 days, and, by the +providence of the Almighty, we escaped both disease and the enemy.</p> + +<p>A few hours after we came to an anchor I went on shore, and I verily +believe that the passengers and spectators suspected they had received a +visitation from the world of spirits. When I reached the house of Mr. Colin +McCrea, Captain Brown's consignee, the unaffected and gentlemanlike +reception I met with, both from him and his lady, with their subsequent +kind conduct, can never be effaced from my memory. Captain Brown soon +joined us, and in the most engaging terms we were invited to become inmates +with Mr. McCrea and his partner, which we availed ourselves of during our +stay in Demerary. A few days after, I became acquainted with Mr. Alexander +McCrea, brother to my kind host, and as soon as my health would permit, +visited him at his plantation, the Hope, 11 miles from Stabroke, the +capital of the colony of Demerary. In this society, and from other +quarters, I was favoured with various information upon the situation of the +colonies in Dutch Guiana, and their importance in a political and +commercial point of view.</p> + +<p>The colonial produce of Demerary, Essequibo, and Berbice, chiefly +consists in sugar, coffee, cotton, rum, and molasses; but the richness and +fertility of the soil is capable of raising any tropical production; new +sources being daily unfolded, of the immense wealth derivable from these +colonies, and their great importance to Great Britain. The following +example, extracted from the Custom House reports, may elucidate this in a +striking degree.</p> + +<p>In the June fleet of 1804, consisting of sixty sail of various burthen +and tonnage, there were exported, viz.</p> +<br> + +<table> +<tr><td>17,235</td><td>Casks of sugar.</td><td>203</td><td>Casks coffee.</td></tr> +<tr><td>442</td><td>Barrels do.</td><td>39,701</td><td>Barrels cotton.</td></tr> +<tr><td>3,399</td><td>Puncheons rum.</td><td>336</td><td>Hhds. molasses.</td></tr> +<tr><td>8,668,885</td><td>lbs. wt. coffee.</td><td></td><td></td></tr> +</table> + + +<p>Calculating sugar at £20. per cask, and £3. per barrel; rum 150 +guilders, or £12. 10s. per puncheon; coffee 1s. per lb.; cotton £20. per +bale of 3 cwt; and molasses a guilder, or 1s. 8d. per gallon, the total +amount will be upwards of £1,600,000.</p> + +<p>This immense export has since progressively increased, and colonists are +only wanting to augment it to an inconceivable extent. How valuable then do +these colonies become, and of what importance are they, in any negociation +with the enemy.</p> + +<p>Unquestionably under the fostering care and guidance of British +jurisprudence, they would produce an accumulated export infinitely beyond +the present computation, and be productive of increasing wealth to the +merchant, and revenue to the country.</p> + +<p>The lands are still more fertile proceeding towards the interior, and +being thinly inhabited, are attainable with great facility, and are +extremely various in their productions.</p> + +<p>At this period these valuable possessions were nearly in a defenceless +state, having a very inadequate and feeble military force to defend them, +and being almost without naval protection; they had literally only an armed +brig and schooner, built and set a float by the colony of Demerary, to +guard an extensive coast, and an immense property.</p> + +<p>In addition to the foregoing enumeration of commerce, indigo, pepper, +cacoa, or chocolate nut, &c. may be raised to great amount. Of the latter, +an individual planter at Berbice, from a nursery of 500,000 trees had +138,000 bearing ones in 1806, which when gathered in, calculating 5lb. to +each tree, will reimburse him in the sum of £32,000.</p> + +<p>Retrospectively viewed, it will appear that the colonies of Dutch Guiana +are of the utmost importance to the revenue, and wealth of Great Britain. +If any consequence is attached by government to the West Indies, and it +would be preposterous to infer that there is not, these become of great +magnitude in the estimation of our colonial possessions, and if they are to +revert to their former proprietors, it evidently should be for no mean +equivalent; and it is but justice to say, that when I was in this part of +the world, the apparent negligence in the protection and jurisdiction of +these possessions, by the administration of the day, had so far alienated +the minds of the inhabitants, that their reversion to the former government +did not appear to be a subject which would excite their regret; although +they were originally predisposed in favour of Great Britain.</p> + +<p>Contemplating also Dutch Guiana in our present state of warfare, and +viewing it, from its contiguity, as an alliance of magnitude to French +Guiana, the Brazils, and the Spanish settlements of South America, from +whence, in the existing situation of Europe, the insatiate ambition of our +inveterate enemy derives an important sinew of finance, which nerves his +arm in wielding the sword against the liberties and the existence of the +United Kingdom, they become infinitely enhanced, and are of still more +momentous consideration.</p> + +<p>Indisputably their possession would tend much to facilitate the British +dominion in this lucrative portion of the globe, which might lead to a +decisive termination of hostilities, and the permanent establishment of +honourable tranquillity.</p> + +<p>On the morning of the 30th of October I took my grateful leave of my +hospitable host and his family; and, accompanied by my trusty friend, +fellow voyager and traveller, Captain Brown, I embarked at noon on board +the ship Admiral Nelson, the command of which he had taken, accompanied by +about 20 sail of vessels under convoy of his Majesty's sloop of war, the +Cygnet, commanded by———Maude, Esq.</p> + +<p>Touching at Tobago, where our fleet was augmented, we came to an anchor +in the harbour of Grenada, on the 5th of November, and remained there until +the 9th.</p> + +<p>The history of this island, with that of the West Indies in general, is +so well known, that it would be delaying my readers unnecessarily, for me +to obtrude my observations. One anecdote, however, which among a variety of +experiments, I made to ascertain the sentiments of the Negroes in the +colonies, may prove, in a high degree, their sentiments upon their present +condition. When I mentioned to them some spot, or some head man in their +country within their recollection, with the utmost extacy they would say, +"eh! you look that, massa?" I then assured them I had, and described the +pullam, or palm tree, in their native town: the effect of this remembrance +was instantaneous, and demonstrated by the most extravagant expressions of +delight. Conceiving that I had attained my object, and being persuaded that +the transportation of these people was an oppressive transgression against +their natural rights, I added, "I had fine ship, I go back to their +country, and obtain leave from massa, to let them go look their country;" a +sudden transition from extravagance to grave reflection followed; "I, +massa, me like that very well, me like much to look my country; but +suppose, massa, they make me slave, me no see my massa again; all the same +to me where I be slave, but me like my massa best, and I no look my country +with you."</p> + +<p>Among every class with whom 1 have conversed on this subject, I have +uniformly received a similar answer, and it is a convincing proof that, by +humane treatment, the condition of the slave is improved, not only by his +transportation to the colonies, but in his own estimation.</p> + +<p>It may be interesting to notice, that at the island of Grenada, I had an +opportunity of correctly ascertaining the truth of a statement, I had heard +from a medical gentleman of respectability at Demerary, that, that ravager +of the human species, the yellow fever, was first imported into this island +from the island of Bulam, in the Rio Grande, upon the coast of Africa, by a +ship called the Hankey, which brought away the sickly colonists from that +unfortunate expedition.</p> + +<p>On the 16th we arrived at Tortola, and on the 19th sailed with the fleet +under convoy of the La Seine frigate, and landed at Liverpool on the 6th of +January, 1806.</p> + + + +<hr> +<H1><a name=CHAPTER_XI>CHAPTER XI.</a></H1> + + + + +<p><i>Conclusion</i>.</p> + +<p>I have endeavoured in the foregoing pages, to introduce to my readers, +the substance of my diary of observations upon the Windward Coast of +Africa.</p> + +<p>Originally I only intended them for my own private satisfaction, and +that of my intimate friends; but on my arrival in England, I found that the +commerce of Africa was then a particular subject in agitation, among a +large portion of my fellow subjects, and the legislature of my country.</p> + +<p>Under these circumstances, I conceived it my duty as a British +commercial subject, and as a friend to humanity, to communicate my +sentiments to the Right Honourable Lord Viscount Howick, then one of his +Majesty's principal secretaries of state; which I did in the subjoined +letter. (Appendix No. I.) Upon further reflection, and by the express wish +of respectable individuals, I have been induced to obtrude my narrative and +sentiments upon the notice of the public. I have avoided as much as +possible to magnify my personal adventures, and dangers, nor have I had +recourse to the flowing periods of description, preferring a simple +narrative of facts formed upon grounds of personal observation. From +thence, if my endeavours tend to awaken a spirit of enterprise, to enlarge +the trade of the united kingdom, and to increase the export of its +manufactures, or lead to more intelligent interference in behalf of the +enslaved African, my design will be accomplished.</p> + +<p>To do justice to the natural history of Africa, and to introduce to the +public its various sources of commerce, would require a union of political +interests, and vigorous execution, which none but government can apply with +full effect.</p> + +<p>The principal outline which I have endeavoured to confine myself to, is +a recital of such traits of the disposition and character of the natives, +as seem requisite to be understood to form an accurate judgment of the +present condition of Africa. The advantages that may possibly result not +only from moral, but political considerations, in forming upon sure +principles, agricultural and mercantile establishments, calculated to +instruct and civilize the Negroes employed in the necessary avocations, +will unfold the fertility of their soil which is now left to nature; and +will also fulfil the expectations of a rational humanity, while it might +rapidly expel slavery and the Slatee trade, to the establishment of +civilization, and more natural commerce. I have also endeavoured to +demonstrate the eligibility of the position of the river Sierra Leone, from +whence a controlling and administrative authority might employ the +resources of the Windward Coast from Cape Verde to Cape Palmas, at the same +time submitting solely to the wisdom of government, the propriety of +annexing Senegal to our possessions on the coast; which of course would +tend to the total exclusion of France from this part of the world.</p> + +<p>I have besides dwelt upon such positions, as appear to me best +calculated to establish factories of trade and agricultural operation; and +upon the nations whose barbarism must first be subdued, in order to +influence other tribes, and to obtain a free intercourse with the interior, +and have pointed out those chiefs whose dispositions and influence, would +greatly co-operate to facilitate this beneficent undertaking.</p> + +<p>The rivers I have dwelt upon, are surrounded with fertile lands and a +numerous population, and may be navigated a considerable distance into the +interior country; and by reducing all operations to one well adapted +system, under the guidance of experience, moderation, and wisdom, I am +firmly persuaded that success will be the result.</p> + +<p>What I have said relative to the present state of the natives of Africa, +may tend to demonstrate the nature of the opposition, which civilization +has to guard against, and the barbarism it has to contend with. The +condition of a free Negro in Africa is easy and contented, and the class of +slaves attached to them, are satisfied with their fate. They only are to be +lamented, who are procured from condemnation, either for real or imaginary +crimes, or who are taken in war; and it is from this class that slaves are +procured by other nations. It is a remarkable circumstance, that the major +part of these unhappy creatures come from the interior, and that the +maritime places which have had intercourse with Europeans, afford only a +small number of slaves; and I am persuaded, abominable as the slave trade +may be considered, and disgraceful as it is, that it has saved many human +beings from a premature and barbarous death. I am also firmly of opinion, +that it is only by a <i>gradual abolition</i>, and a rational system to +civilize the inhabitants of Africa, that this detested traffic can be +effectually abolished. A rational philosophy and humanity, should first +have submitted to political necessity, and have commenced experiment upon +practicable theories, while the sacred rights of property should have been +regarded, and well considered.</p> + +<p>This opinion may perhaps subject me to the animadversion of many worthy +individuals; but I beg to assure them, that I am as zealous an abolitionist +as any among my fellow subjects, although I widely differ from many of +them, as to the means of effecting a measure, that embraces so large a +portion of the human race; and I should contradict the conviction of my own +mind, were I to utter any other opinion.</p> + +<p>Rectitude of intention, a lively interest in the condition of the +African, and a deep impression of the importance of this country to Great +Britain, in a commercial point of view, have actuated me in obtruding +myself upon the public; and before I take my leave, I earnestly entreat a +deliberate investigation of the imperfect system of operation, I have +recommended in the foregoing pages. If I have not been sufficiently +perspicuous, I trust the shafts of criticism will be enfeebled by the +consideration, that a commercial education and pursuit cannot claim a title +to literary acquirements; but if in any instance I meet the judgment of a +discerning public, and my suggestions excite more competent endeavours, I +shall feel the highest pleasure, and satisfaction.</p> + +<p>Into the hands of an enlightened legislature, and a beneficent public, I +commit the Negro race; and may their endeavours be blest by Providence! may +they tend to enlarge the circle of civilized and Christian society, and +augment the commercial prosperity of the United Kingdom!</p><br> +<span style="margin-left: 1em;"></span><br> + + +<hr> +<H1><a name=APPENDIX>APPENDIX.</a></H1> + +<hr> +<H2><a name=No_I>No. I.</a></H2> + +<p><i>To the Right Honourable Lord Viscount Howick, his Majesty's late +principal Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs; shewing at one View the +most simple and ready Mode of gradually and effectually abolishing the +Slave Trade, and eradicating Slavery, on the Eve of his Lordship +introducing the late Bill into Parliament for the Abolition of the Slate +Trade</i>.</p> + +<span style="margin-left: 20em;"><i>London, 5th February, 1807.</i></span><br> +<br> +<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">MY LORD,</span><br> + +<p>Stimulated by an ardent zeal for the political and commercial interests +of my country, and animated by the principles of humanity, I venture to +approach your Lordship upon a subject which, with every deference, I +conceive to be of the most momentous consequence at the present +conjuncture, namely, the existing state of Africa, and the relative +importance of its trade to the <i>United Kingdom</i>.</p> + +<p>In my communications to your Lordship, I shall adhere to that brevity +which is consistent with perspicuity, and a recognition of the importance +attached to your Lordship's time and weighty engagements.</p> + +<p>If experimental knowledge, my Lord, attaches any force to the +observations I now submit to your Lordship, I have to premise, that they +are the result of recent personal investigation, and are a summary of +remarks detailed in journals of a very excursive observation on the +Windward Coast of Africa, and a peculiar facility of intercourse with the +chiefs and native tribes of a widely extended circle, from which I am +returned, by the West Indies, in the late fleet under the convoy of his +Majesty's frigate La Seine, and Merlin sloop of war.</p> + +<p>As a preliminary introduction, permit me to refer your Lordship to the +annexed copy of a letter, (Appendix No. II.) which I ventured to address to +the Right Honourable the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, dated 1st +May, ultimo, in which is exemplified the present state of commerce from the +Island of Goree to Cape Palmas. Vide page 54.</p> + +<p>Conclusive as this example may be of its magnitude, yet it is infinitely +below its attainable increase. The want of naval protection, and the +patronage of government, has greatly fettered it, and exposed the property +engaged therein, to the incursions and destructive depredations of the +enemy.</p> + +<p>Connected with its present extent, the Gambia, the Rio Pongo, the river +Sierra Leone, and the rivers adjacent to Cape Palmas, abound with the +greatest variety of the most lucrative and rare objects of commercial +pursuit, namely, indigo, numerous plants for staining, pepper, cotton, and +a multifarious enumeration of dormant productions, besides timber of +various kinds, adapted to the building of ships destined to tropical +climates, having the peculiar quality of resisting the worm, so ruinous to +shipping, and corroding iron; it may be cut into planks of 20 feet by 15 +inches, and may be procured in any quantity.</p> + +<p>A retrospective view therefore, my Lord, displays a fruitful field to +commercial enterprise, to the attention of civilized nations, to the +naturalist, and to the metaphysician, requiring united interference only, +to unfold and fertilize them; which in effect, would tend to enfranchise a +kindred species, absorbed in barbarism, and preserve, uninterrupted, our +commercial advantages with this extraordinary and important quarter of the +globe.</p> + +<p>It is, certainly, my Lord, a subject of the deepest regret to the +philanthropist, that among the Africans, a devoted race is consigned to the +galling fetters of slavery by their inhuman customs, by their barbarous +hostilities, and the commercial expedients of civilized states.</p> + +<p>Much has been written and said, my Lord, upon this interesting subject, +from authority high in rank, in talents, and situation, but still it is +involved in a perplexed labyrinth; the attainable sources of African +commerce remain unexplored, and the inhabitants of its extensive regions +are still entangled by the thraldom of barbarous customs, and superstitious +infidelity. No efficient measures have been adopted, upon practicable +grounds, to unite the views of humanity and commerce in one harmonious +compact, compatible with the present condition of Africa, its character, +its customs, and its inveterate barbarism.</p> + +<p>Benevolence has, unhappily, hitherto failed in its objects, through the +opposition of a peculiar mixture of passions, of obstinate ferocity, and +licentious and hereditary habits.</p> + +<p>To subdue the inveteracy of these evils, and to establish the +manumission of the African, alluring and progressive alterations are +necessary, compatible with his present condition, under the influence of +agriculture and mechanics, adapted to the useful purposes of life, to +commerce, and to navigation.</p> + +<p>Previous to his enfranchisement, my Lord, these must exhibit before him +their facinations upon his native plains. Too impetuous and indolent to +observe the forms, or to enter into the necessary details of business, he +views the effect without investigating the cause; but when he perceives the +former, and contemplates his own comparative wretchedness, and contracted +sphere of intellect, he will be roused from his innate indolence, his +powers will be dilated, and his emulation stimulated to attain a more +exalted state of being, while his barbarism will fall before the luminous +displays of enlightened example.</p> + +<p>Hence, to free the African, commercial and agricultural societies +adapted to the present state of the country, appear to be the most +practicable means, and the only sources of remunerative and effective +influence: but as these measures necessarily require population from the +parent state, aided by great pecuniary support, and intelligent +superintendance; the patronage of the legislature is indispensibly +requisite, to aid individual and corporate endeavours.</p> + +<p>In pursuance hereof, imperceptible and circumspect approach at +innovation upon the laws, customs, and country of Africa, are highly +expedient; the chiefs and head men claim a primary consideration; their +obstinate predilection in favour of long-existing usage must be cajoled, +the inveteracy of their jealousies and superstitions be dexterously +removed, and their sordid avarice flattered, by the judicious maxims of +policy, and by the prospects of superior gain.</p> + +<p>The slave trade, therefore, being lucrative, and of immemorial +existence, must, in the interim, pursue its present course, as a fatality +attached to the condition of Africa, and as a polluted alliance, which the +dictates of policy and humanity impose, until a succedaneum is found in its +stead.</p> + +<p>While this invidious exigency obstructs the immediate manumission of the +slave, it does not the less accelerate it in conformity thereto, but on the +contrary, is a necessary preliminary to his efficacious emancipation.</p> + +<p>Before he is admitted into the political society of his master, and is +allowed to be free, his intellectual faculties must be expanded by the +example of polished society, and by the arts of civilization.</p> + +<p>Maxims of policy, my Lord, are often apparently little consonant with +those of morality; and where an inveterate evil in society is to be +eradicated, address and delicacy in managing the humours and interests of +men, are arts requisite to success.</p> + +<p>This consideration is applicable to the present condition of the +Africans, and may perhaps justify a farther continuance of the <i>slave +trade</i>, as compatible with its <i>radical abolition</i>.</p> + +<p>The reasonings adopted by a numerous assemblage of chiefs, convened in +the retirement of the mountains of Sierra Leone, when <i>that</i> company +assumed a defensive attitude, most clearly prove this grievous +necessity.</p> + +<p>In their idiom of our language they say, "White man now come among us +with new face, talk palaver we do not understand, they bring new fashion, +great guns, and soldiers into our country, but they make no trade, or bring +any of the fine money of their country with them, therefore we must make +war, and kill these white men."</p> + +<p>This, my Lord, is an impressive epitome of the sentiments of the whole +country, and hence the impolicy of illuminating their minds and abolishing +slavery, in order to erect a system of reformation upon an invidious base +in the estimation of the governing characters of the country.</p> + +<p>With every deference, my Lord, to the wisdom and benevolence which +framed the constitution of the Sierra Leone Company, I would observe, that +had they adopted the following measures, they would before now have been +far advanced in their scheme of reformation.</p> + +<p>1st. They should have employed their funds in the established commerce +of the country. 2d. Have purchased slaves from as <i>wide an extent</i> of +native tribes as was practicable; they should have employed them in that +capacity, under the superintendence of the European colonist; have +initiated them into the arts of agriculture and useful mechanics, +manufactures, and navigation, and have instructed them in the rudiments of +letters, religion, and science, &c.</p> + +<p>3d. having arrived at this state of civilization and knowledge, their +<i>graduated manumission</i> should have proceeded in proportion to their +fidelity and attainments.</p> + +<p>And, lastly, being thus qualified, they should have employed them as the +agents to their tribe, to make known to them the arcana of wealth in their +country, dormant through hereditary barbarism and superstitious +idolatry,</p> + +<p>From the adoption of the first proposition, a facility of intercourse +with the interior and native tribes would have been acquired, and also a +knowledge of the genius, policy, customs, manners, and commercial resources +of the neighbouring nations.</p> + +<p>By the 2d, the seeds of science would have been disseminated throughout +an extended district, and a spirit of industry and enquiry would have been +infused, which, by imperceptible degrees, under the guidance of Providence, +might eventually have been spread throughout the most remote regions of +Africa.</p> + +<p>By means of the 3d, the objects of humanity would have been +realized.</p> + +<p>And by the progressive influence of the last, a system of civilization +and commercial enterprize would have been diffused, and an equivalent, in +process of time, been obtained, consistent with the cogency of existing +circumstances, and the African's present state of being.</p> + +<p>By adopting this system, my Lord, the maxims of sagacious policy, and +the claims of humanity, upon practicable principles, may be united, and +adapted to the present condition of Africa, while our commerce therewith +will be invigorated and encreased, and will flow without interruption +through a less polluted channel; the seclusion of the African from the +refined arts of society be annihilated, his jealousies allayed, his nature +regenerated, his barbarism fall before the advantages of enlightened +existence, and his enslaved customs make their natural exit, together with +the slave trade, from his shores and his country.</p> + +<p>How animating is this contemplation, my Lord, to the beneficence of +enlightened nations, and how worthy of the magnanimity of a British +government to effect!</p> + +<p>In the interim, my Lord, new and accumulated sources of commerce, &c. +will remunerate the parent state in a manner more congenial with the +natural rights of mankind, while a monumental column will be erected to +humanity, which will perpetuate its exalted benevolence, and excite the +admiration of, and be an example to, the civilized world; but if Africa is +abandoned by Great Britain, it will be subject to the rapacity of other +nations, who, <i>to my personal knowledge</i>, are <i>now</i> directing +their views towards its commerce in the contemplation of that abandonment, +and who will, no doubt, seize it with avidity, as being highly lucrative +and important; while the African's chains will still clink in the ears of +the civilized world, his fetters be rivetted more closely, and his +miserable fate be consigned to the uncertainty of human events.</p> + +<p>Finally, permit me to assure your Lordship, that I am wholly +uninfluenced, and that I am, at this moment, ignorant of the present +opinions of men in Europe upon this interesting subject, as I have just +arrived in England, and have been excluded for some time past from any +other scene but that of personal observation in Africa.</p> + +<p>I have considered the subject with deep interest, and finding the +momentous question upon the eve of being agitated by the legislature, I +have conceived it my duty, as a British commercial Subject, to give every +information to your Lordship, within my personal knowledge, and have, +therefore, obtruded my thoughts upon you; and if your Lordship deems a more +detailed and systematic view of my journals of any interest, I am ready to +unfold them with the utmost alacrity. In the interim, I am,</p> + +<center><br> +My Lord,<br> +Your Lordship's most obedient<br> +humble servant,<br> +</center><br> + +<span style="margin-left: 20em;">JOSEPH CORRY.</span><br> + +<hr> +<H2><a name=No_II>No. II.</a></H2> + + +<center><br> +<i>To the Right Honourable the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty,</i><br> +<i>referred to in the foregoing Letter to Lord Howick.</i><br> +<br> +<i>Bance Island, River Sierra Leone, Coast of Africa,</i><br> +<i>May 1st, 1806.</i><br> +</center><br> + +<span style="margin-left: 1.5em;">MY LORDS,</span><br> + +<p>That consideration which has uniformly distinguished your Lordships for +the safe-guardianship of our commerce, and the property engaged in it, +stimulates me to approach your Lordships with some few observations on the +present state of the African trade, and its dependencies.</p> + +<p>My object is, to submit to your Lordships a statement of the British +capital involved in that commerce, as exemplified by the present amount of +export, diligently ascertained from the most authentic sources of +intelligence, and to offer some brief remarks on its importance to the +United Kingdom, and the necessity of a more adequate naval protection.</p> + +<p>In the first place, permit me to solicit your Lordships' attention to +the estimate of annual export from the Windward Coast of Africa. (Vide page +54.)</p> + +<p>Your Lordships will perceive, that the amount of export <i>only</i> is +here under review; and I submit to your consideration the capital vested in +the necessary shipping, also the property of British factors, resident on +the Coast, and factories belonging to merchants at home, which forms +another article of great importance.</p> + +<p>During the present war, from the Rio Noonez to the river Sierra Leone, +660 slaves, and more than the value of 100 slaves in craft, have fallen +into the hands of the enemy; which were forcibly seized upon the premises +of factories, the property of British subjects, to the amount of +35,000<i>l</i>. at the computation of 50 each, valuing them upon an +equitable average: moreover, about one hundred resident free people have +been involved in this violence, of incalculable importance, and ground of +indefinite claims from the natives.</p> + +<p>When your Lordships contemplate these facts, and the annual emolument +derived from this commerce by the government, and a numerous body of +merchants, it may be presumed that its magnitude is of sufficient +consequence to justify the expense of <i>adequate naval protection</i>.</p> + +<p>British subjects connected with, and resident on, the Coast, are +consequently become deeply interested, and are earnestly solicitous for an +extension of your Lordships' paternal care towards their possessions. The +principal amount, as before shewn, necessarily in the progress of business, +passes into currency through their hands, which, with the surplus property +they have in their stores, their buildings, and people, creates a momentous +risque, which is exposed to the predatory ravages of piccaroon privateers, +and to the hostile squadrons and depredations of the enemy.</p> + +<p>With all due retrospective reference to your Lordships' vigilance and +watchful guardianship over our commerce, I take the liberty to remind your +Lordships, that only one sloop of war, the Arab, (the Favourite being +taken) has been charged with the important office of defending an extent of +coast of upwards of 1000 miles, against the sweeping hand of the enemy; an +example of which has fatally occurred in the late destruction effected by +Commodore L'Hermitte's squadron, to the very serious injury of many British +merchants, and perhaps the ruin of many underwriters upon African +risques.</p> + +<p>From the apparent approaches the legislature appears to make towards an +abolition of the slave trade, the object of consideration for the defence +of the coast of Africa may have become of less comparative magnitude; but +when upwards of one million in export from thence, and its enumerated +appendages, are entangled, and at imminent hazard, an animated and +impressive appeal is made your Lordships for every practicable security, +while it remains in existence; and to the legislative wisdom, for a +remuneration commensurate thereto, in the event of its annihilation.</p> + +<p>Trusting that your Lordships will deign to recognize the importance of +this subject, and will vouchsafe to pardon my temerity in assuming to +suggest to your Lordships' wisdom the expediency of establishing a more +adequate and permanent naval force for the protection of the trade and +coast of Africa, I am,</p> + +<center><br> +My Lord,<br> +Your Lordship's most obedient<br> +devoted humble servant,<br> +</center><br> + +<span style="margin-left: 20em;">JOSEPH CORRY.</span><br> + +<hr> +<H2><a name=No_III>No. III.</a></H2> + + +<p>When the foregoing narrative and observations were prepared for the +press, the original minutes from whence the following Appendix is compiled, +had not come to hand, as they remained with a part of my papers, which I +have since received from the coast of Africa.</p> + +<p>The substance of these miscellaneous fragments I shall divide into +sections, descriptive of the different subjects to which they allude, and +it may be found that they illustrate more fully many of the foregoing +remarks upon the Windward Coast of Africa.</p> + +<hr> +<H3><a name=SECTION_I>SECTION I.</a></H3> + +<p><i>Of the Purrah</i>.</p> + +<p>Among the singular customs of the inhabitants of Africa, there exists in +the vicinity of the Sierra Leone, and more particularly among the mixed +tribes of the Foolahs, Soosees, Boolams, &c. an institution of a religious +and political nature. It is a confederation by a solemn oath, and binds its +members to inviolable secrecy not to discover its mysteries, and to yield +an implicit obedience to superiors, called by the natives the +<i>Purrah</i>.</p> + +<p>As it is dangerous to enquire from the natives, and consequently +difficult to procure information on this subject, conjecture must supply +the want of oral and ocular testimony; but what I have here advanced I had +from an intelligent chief, who was a member of the society, who, I am +nevertheless convinced, preserved his integrity, in communicating the +following particulars, as I never could induce him to touch upon any part +of the mysteries, which he acknowledged to exist, but spoke of them with +the utmost reserve.</p> + +<p>The members of this secret tribunal are under the supreme control of a +sovereign, whose superior, or <i>head man</i>, commands by his council, +absolute submission and authority from the subordinate councils and +members.</p> + +<p>To be admitted into the confederacy it is necessary to be thirty years +of age; and to be a member of the grand <i>purrah</i>, fifty years; and the +oldest member of the subordinate <i>purrahs</i> form those of the sovereign +<i>purrahs</i>.</p> + +<p>No candidate is admitted but at the recommendation and responsibility of +members, who imprecate his death, if he betrays fear during his initiation +into the ceremonies, or the sacred mysteries of the association; from which +females are entirely excluded.</p> + +<p>Some months elapse, in the preparation for admission, and the candidate +passes through the severest trials, in which every dreadful expedient is +employed to ascertain his firmness of mind, and courage.</p> + +<p>The candidate is conducted to a sacred wood, where a place is appointed +for his habitation, from which he dares not absent himself; if he does, he +is immediately surrounded and struck dead. His food is supplied by men +masked, and he must observe an uniform silence.</p> + +<p>Fires, during the night, surround these woods, to preserve them +inviolate from the unhallowed steps of curiosity, into which if +indiscretion tempts any one to enter, a miserable exit is the result.</p> + +<p>When the trials are all gone through, <i>initiation</i> follows; the +candidate is first sworn to secrecy, to execute implicitly the decrees of +the <i>purrah</i> of his order, and to be devoted to the commands of the +<i>sovereign purrah</i>.</p> + +<p>During the process of initiation, the hallowed woods resound with +dreadful howlings, shrieks, and other horrid noises, accompanied by +conflagrations and flames.</p> + +<p>This secret and inquisitorial tribunal takes cognizance of crimes and +delinquencies, more especially witchcraft and murder; and also operates as +a mediator in wars, and dissentions among powerful tribes and chiefs. Its +interference is generally attended with effect, more particularly if +accompanied by a threat of vengeance from the <i>purrah</i>; and a +suspension of hostilities is scrupulously observed, until it is determined +who is the aggressor; while this investigation takes place by the sovereign +<i>purrah</i>, as many of the warriors are convoked, as they conceive +necessary to enforce their judgment, which usually consigns the guilty to a +pillage of some days. To execute the decree, they avail themselves of the +night to depart from the place where the sovereign <i>purrah</i> is +assembled, previously disguising their persons with hideous objects, and +dividing themselves into detachments, armed with torches and warlike +weapons; they arrive at the village of the condemned, and proclaim with +tremendous yells the decree of the sovereign <i>purrah</i>. The affrighted +victims of superstition and injustice are either murdered or made captives, +and no longer form a people among the tribes.</p> + +<p>The produce arising from this horrid and indiscriminate execution of the +decrees of this tribunal is divided equally between the injured tribe, and +the sovereign <i>purrah</i>; the latter share is again subdivided among the +warriors employed in the execution of its diabolical decree, as a +recompense for their zeal, obedience, and promptitude.</p> + +<p>The families of the tribes under the dominion of this infernal +confederacy, when they become objects of suspicion or rivalry, are +subjected to immediate pillage, and if they resist, are dragged into their +secret recesses, where they are condemned, and consigned to oblivion.</p> + +<p>Its supreme authority is more immediately confined to the Sherbro; and +the natives of the Bay of Sierra Leone speak of it with reserve and dread: +they consider the brotherhood as having intercourse with the <i>bad +spirit</i>, or devil, and that they are sorcerers, and invulnerable to +human power. Of course the <i>purrah</i> encourages these superstitious +prejudices, which establish their authority and respect, as the members are +numerous, and are known to each other by certain signs and expressions. The +Mandingos have also their sacred woods and mysteries, where, by their +delusions and exorcisms, they prepare their children for circumcision.</p> + +<p>The Soosees, inhabiting the borders of the Rio Pongo, have a species of +<i>purrah</i>, which gives its members great consequence among them; but +their ceremonies are kept also with inviolable secrecy, and they are bound +by horrid oaths and incantations. These people seem to delight in +disseminating improbable tales of their institution, and their invention +appears to be exhausted in superstitious legends of its mysteries.</p> + +<p>The Timmanees have an inquisitorial institution called <i>bunda</i>, +noticed in page 72, to which women only are subjected. The season of +penitence is superintended by an elderly woman, called <i>bunda</i> woman; +and fathers even consign their wives and daughters to her investigation +when they become objects of suspicion. Here is extracted from them an +unreserved confession of every crime committed by themselves, or to which +they are privy in others. Upon their admission they are besmeared with +white clay, which obliterates every trace of human appearance, and they are +solemnly abjured to make an unequivocal confession; which if not complied +with, they are threatened with death as the inevitable consequence. The +general result is a discovery of fact and falsehood, in proportion as their +fears of punishment are aroused, which the <i>bunda</i> woman makes known +to the people who assemble in the village or town where the <i>bunda</i> is +instituted. If she is satisfied with the confession, the individual is +dismissed from the <i>bunda</i>, and, as is noticed in Chapter VII. an act +of oblivion is passed relative to her former conduct; but where the crime +of witchcraft is included, slavery is uniformly the consequence: those +accused as partners of her guilt are obliged to undergo the ordeal by +<i>red water</i>, redeem themselves by slaves, or go into slavery +themselves.</p> + +<p>When the <i>bunda</i> woman is dissatisfied with the confessions, she +makes the object sit down, and after rubbing poisonous leaves, procured for +the purpose, between her hands, and infusing them in water, she makes her +drink in proportion to its strength. It naturally occasions pain in the +bowels, which is considered as an infallible evidence of guilt. +Incantations and charms are then resorted to by the <i>bunda</i> woman, to +ascertain what the concealed crime is, and after a <i>decent</i> period +employed in this buffoonery, the charges are brought in conformity with the +imagination or malignity of this priestess of mystery and iniquity.</p> + +<p>During the continuance of this engine of avarice, oppression, and fraud +in any town, the chiefs cause their great drum and other instruments of +music to be continually in action, and every appearance of festive hilarity +pervades among the inhabitants, accompanied by the song and the dance.</p> + +<p>Contumacy, or a refusal to confess, is invariably followed by death.</p> + +<p>In short, the bewildered natives feel the effects, and dread the power +of these extraordinary institutions; they know they exist, but their +deliberations and mysteries are impenetrably concealed from them; and the +objects of their vengeance are in total ignorance, until the annihilating +stroke of death terminates their mortal career.</p> + +<p>It is impossible to contemplate the religious institutions, and +superstitious customs of the western nations of Africa, north of the +equator, without closely assimilating them with those of Ethiopia and +Egypt; and from hence to infer that a correspondence has existed between +the eastern and western inhabitants of this great continent.</p> + +<hr> +<H3><a name=SECTION_II>SECTION II.</a></H3> + +<p><i>Of the</i> Termite, Termes, <i>or</i> Bug a Bug, <i>as it is called +by the Natives upon the Windward Coast of Africa.</i></p> + +<p>Among the insects mentioned in page 36, the <i>termite, termes</i>, or +<i>bug a bug</i>, attracts peculiar notice. The following observations are +derived from the investigations I occasionally made upon the Island of +Tasso, attached to Bance Island, where they abound, and indeed in nearly +all the western countries of Africa.</p> + +<p>The oeconomy of nature, and the wisdom of Providence, are wonderfully +displayed in these little animals; for although they occasion the utmost +devastation to buildings, utensils, and all kinds of household furniture +and merchandize, and indeed every thing except metal and stone, yet they +answer highly important purposes in demolishing the immense quantity of +putrid substances, which load the earth in tropical climates.</p> + +<p>Their astonishing peculiarities cannot fail to excite the notice of an +attentive observer; the sagacity and ingenuity they display in their +buildings, their industry, and the plunder and devastation they commit, is +incredible to those who have not witnessed their communities and empires. +They are divided into innumerable societies, and acknowledge a king and +queen, the former of which I brought to Europe, but the latter was by +accident mislaid at sea. Linnaeus denominates the African <i>bug a bug, +Termes</i>, and describes it as the plague of the Indies. Every community, +as I have observed, has a king and queen, and the monarchy, if I may be +allowed the expression, forms three distinct orders of insects, in three +states of existence; of every species there are likewise three orders, +which differ very essentially in the functions they have to perform, and +are in appearance very different.</p> + +<p>In their primitive state, they are perfectly white; they have six little +feet, three on each side, and a small head, in which I could perceive no +eyes, after a minute investigation with a microscope. In this state they +supply the community with provisions from subterraneous cavities, fabricate +their pyramidical buildings, and may with great propriety be called +labourers.</p> + +<p>In a few weeks they destroy the largest trunks of trees, carry away all +descriptions of putrid substances, and particles of vegetable decay, which, +in such a climate as Africa, amply compensates for the ruin which they +otherwise occasion.</p> + +<p>Their buildings are contrived and finished with great ingenuity and +solidity, to a magnitude infinitely beyond the erections of man, when a +comparative dimension of size is considered.</p> + +<p>They are usually termed hills, and are generally in a conical form, from +10 to 12 feet in perpendicular height, and frequently upwards of 100 feet +square in the base.</p> + +<p>For a considerable period, vegetation is banished from the surface of +their abode, but from the second to the third year, it becomes like the +surrounding soil. The exterior forms a crust, which shelters the interior +from the weather, and the community from the attacks of enemies. The +interior is divided into almost innumerable chambers or apartments, with +amazing regularity and contrivance; in the centre of which is the royal +residence of the king and queen, composed of solid clay, closely compacted, +and distinct from the external habitation, which accommodate their +subjects. It appears that the royal erection is the first which occupies +the attention of the labourers, as it is central in the foundation of the +hill which composes the empire at large. This makes its first appearance +above the surface of the earth in various turrets, in the form of a sugar +loaf, from which they increase their number, widening them from the base; +the middle one is the highest and largest, and they fill up the spaces as +they proceed, until the whole is formed into one.</p> + +<p>This compact construction is admirably adapted to guard against external +violence, and to preserve a genial warmth and moisture to cherish the +hatching of the eggs, and the young.</p> + +<p>The queen is by far the largest, and has an unwieldy body, of enormous +dimensions, when compared with her subjects; so also is the king, but +inferior in size to the queen.</p> + +<p>The royal residence is a full constructed hill, surrounded by an +innumerable number of others, differing in shape and dimensions, arched in +various forms, circular, and elliptical, which communicate by passages, +occupied by guards and attendants, and surrounded by nurseries and +magazines. But when the community is in an infant state, these are +contiguous to the royal residence; and in proportion as the size of the +queen increases, her chamber is enlarged, and her attendants and apartments +multiplied.</p> + +<p>The construction of the outward apartments which surround the central +royal residence, that of the <i>common father</i> and <i>mother</i> of the +community, form an intricate labyrinth of nurseries and magazines, +separated by chambers and galleries, communicating with each other, and +continuing towards the surface of the pyramid; and being arched, they +support each other, and are uniformly larger towards the centre.</p> + +<p>The second order of <i>termes</i> are like the first, blind and active, +but they undergo a change of form, approaching to the perfect state; they +are much larger, and increase from about a quarter of an inch in length to +half an inch, and greater in bulk; and what is still more remarkable, the +mouth is armed with sharp claws, and the head is disproportionably +enlarged. They may properly be called the nurses and warriors of the +kingdom; they urge their fellow subjects in the <i>first</i> state to +labour, they inspect the construction of the interior apartments, repel all +attacks from enemies, and devour them with fury; and may be considered as +the standing army of the state.</p> + +<p>In the third and last stage, they are winged; their bodies then measure +about 7/8ths of an inch in length, furnished with four brownish transparent +wings, rather large; they have eyes also of a disproportionate size, +visible to the observer. When they make their appearance in this state, it +is indicative of the approach of the rainy season. At this period they +procreate their species.</p> + +<p>They seldom wait before they take wing for a second or third shower; and +should the rain happen in the night, the quantities of them which are found +the next morning upon the surface of the earth, and on the waters, more +particularly upon the latter, are astonishing. The term of existence at +this stage is extremely short, and frequently on the following morning +after they have taken flight, they are surprisingly weakened and decreased; +at the utmost I do not think they live more than two days; and these +insects, so industrious, courageous, and destructive in the two first +periods of their existence, become the prey of innumerable enemies. +Indolent, and incapable of resisting the smallest insects, they are hunted +by various species from place to place, and not one pair in millions get +into a place of safety, to fulfil the laws of nature and propagation.</p> + +<p>Their wings in a short time fall from them, and the ponds and brooks are +covered with their carcases. The Negroes in many places collect them in +their calabashes, dry them, and fry them on a slow fire, which they +consider as a delicious morsel.</p> + +<p>A few, however, escape the general dissolution, several pairs of them +are found by those of the first genus, as they are continually moving over +the surface of the earth, and are carried by them to found new kingdoms and +communities. The royal mansion is then erected, as before described, their +wings fall off, and they pass the remainder of their existence in indolence +and luxury, and in the propagation of their species. Their dimensions now +undergo a monstrous change, more especially the queen; her abdomen augments +by degrees, and increases to a prodigious size, when compared with her two +first stages of existence; and the king, although greatly augmented, yet is +diminutive compared to his enormous spouse, who sometimes exceeds three +inches in length. She is in this state extremely prolific, and the matrix +is almost perpetually yielding eggs, which are taken from her by her +attendants, and are carried into the adjoining nurseries.</p> + +<p>The foregoing is a very imperfect delineation of this wonderful insect, +which requires the minutest description by an experienced and scientific +naturalist to illustrate clearly; and there are many secrets in the natural +history of this little animal that would amply reward his investigation +upon the different circumstances attending its existence.</p> + +<p>Those that build in trees, or erect pyramids, have a strong resemblance +to each other, and pass through the same stages to the winged state, but +they are not of so large a size as the foregoing; and it is a very singular +circumstance, that of all these different species, neither the labourers +nor soldiers expose themselves to the open air, but travel in subterraneous +vaults, unless when they are obstructed and impelled by necessity; and when +their covered ways and habitations are destroyed, it is wonderful how +quickly they will rebuild them. I have frequently destroyed them in the +evening, and have found them re-erected on the following morning.</p> + +<p>When a pair, in the perfect state, is rescued from the general +devastation which attends these little animals, they are by the two first +species elected king and queen, and are inclosed in a chamber, as before +described, around which a new empire is formed, and pyramids are +erected.</p> + +<p>That species which builds in trees, frequently establish their abode in +houses also, which in time they will entirely destroy, if not extirpated. +The large kind, however, are more destructive, and more difficult to guard +against, as their approaches are principally made under-ground, and below +the foundation; they rise either in the floors, or under the posts, which +in African buildings support the roof, and as they proceed, they form +cavities towards the top, similar to the holes bored in the bottom of ships +by the worms, which appear to answer the same purpose in water as the +<i>termites</i> do upon land. How convincing is this fact of the infinitely +wise arrangements of the Creator, who has united, in the whole system of +creation, one uniform conformation of order and utility; for although the +<i>vermis</i>, or worm, which is so pernicious to shipping in tropical +climates, and the <i>termite</i>, possess so many destructive qualities, +yet these very properties serve the most important purposes and designs. +Scarcely any thing perishable on land escapes the <i>termite</i>, or in +water, the worm; and it is from thence evident, that these animals are +designed by nature to rid both of incumbrances, which in tropical climates +would be attended with putrefaction and disease.</p> + +<p>The first object which strikes the attention, and excites admiration, +upon opening and investigating the hills of the <i>termites</i>, is, the +conduct of the armed species, or soldiers; when a breach is made by a +pick-axe, or hoe, they instantaneously sally forth in small parties round +the breach, as if to oppose the enemy, or to examine the nature of the +attack, and the numbers increase to an incredible degree as long as it +continues; parties frequently return as if to give the alarm to the whole +community, and then rush forth again with astonishing fury. At this period +they are replete with rage, and make a noise which is very distinguishable, +and is similar to the ticking of a watch; if any object now comes in +contact with them, they seize it, and never quit their hold until they are +literally torn in pieces. When the violence against their habitation +ceases, they retire into their nests, as if nothing had happened, and the +observer will instantaneously perceive the labourers at work, with a +burthen of mortar in their mouths, which they stick upon the breach with +wonderful facility and quickness; and although thousands and millions are +employed, yet they never embarrass the proceedings of each other, but +gradually fill up the chasm. While the labourers are thus employed, the +greatest part of the soldiers retire, a few only being discernible, who +evidently act as overseers, and at intervals of about a minute, make the +vibrating noise before described, which is immediately answered by an +universal hiss from the labourers, and at this signal they redouble their +exertions with encreased activity.</p> + +<p>In minutely examining these hills, great obstacles present themselves to +the observer; the apartments and nurseries which surround the royal +habitation, and the whole internal fabric, are formed of moist brittle +clay, and are so closely connected, that they can only be examined +separately, for having a geometrical dependance upon each other, the +demolition of one pulls down more; patience is therefore exhausted in the +investigation, and it is impossible to proceed without interruption; for +while the soldiers are employed in defending the breach, the labourers are +engaged in barricading the different galleries and passages towards the +royal chamber. In one apartment which I dug out from a hill, I was forcibly +struck with their attachment and allegiance to their sovereigns; and as it +is capacious enough to hold a great number of attendants, of which it has a +constant supply, I had a fair opportunity offered for experiment, I secured +it in a small box; and these faithful creatures never abandoned their +charge; they were continually running about their king and queen, stopping +at every circuit, as if to administer to them, and to receive their +commands.</p> + +<p>Upon exposing their different avenues and chambers for a night only, +before the next morning, provided the king and queen are preserved, and +their apartments remain, it will be found that they are all shut up with a +thin covering of clay, and every interstice in the ruins, through which +either cold or wet could communicate, filled up, which is continued with +unremitting industry until the building is restored to its pristine +state.</p> + +<p>Besides these species, there are also the <i>marching termites</i>, of +an encreased size, who make excursions in large bodies, and spread +devastation in their way; but as my means of observation upon them was only +accidental, it will be intruding an imperfect description to notice them at +all; but if we form a conclusion from the immense number of <i>termites</i> +which everywhere abound in Africa, we shall be tempted to believe that +their procreation is endless and unceasing.</p> + +<p>When the papers came to hand which contained the substance of these +remarks upon this extraordinary insect, I did not intend to annex them to +the Observations on the Windward Coast of Africa, nor am I without some +doubt as to the propriety of so doing; the observation of the learned +<i>naturalist</i> only can ascertain the economy of the <i>termite</i>, or +<i>bug a bug</i>, and I have therefore to apologize for obtruding these +imperfect and general remarks.</p> + +<hr> +<H3><a name=SECTION_III>SECTION III.</a></H3> + +<p><i>Of the Cameleon</i>.</p> + +<p>The cameleon is a native of the torrid zone, and is a genus of the +lizard: the faculty of assuming the colour of every object it approaches is +ascribed to it, and other singular properties; but there are many rare +phoenomena not so well understood, such as its absorption and expulsion of +air at pleasure, its property of living a considerable time without any +kind of nourishment, and its extraordinary visual advantages, which are +perhaps not to be found in any other of the wonderful works of the +creation.</p> + +<p>I have made various experiments to ascertain these extraordinary +properties in this little animal; and I brought home one in a preserved +state.</p> + +<p>The first object which struck my attention, was the variation of colour; +and I am persuaded that it does not assume these from the surrounding +objects, but that they proceed from internal sensations of pain, or +otherwise.</p> + +<p>From the moment that the liberty of my captive was infringed upon, or +when interrupted in its pursuits, it became less sensible of external +objects, the vivacity of its colour, and the plumpness of its form +underwent a visible change. Its natural colour is a beautiful green; and +when in a state of liberty it is to be found in the grass, or lodged on the +branches of some tree, ornamented with the gayest foilage; and it would +appear that its liberty, and the privilege of living in the grass, are +indispensible towards the preservation of its qualities. The colour of its +skin, in a perfect state of health, is scarcely discernible from the trees +and grass, in which it delights to conceal itself, and is not to be +discovered at all without a very minute scrutiny. It remains immoveable for +a length of time, and its motions are all cautious and slow, continuing to +loll out its tongue, which is long and glutinous, in order to secure the +little insects that are necessary to its nourishment; and I doubt not but +it has an attractive influence over its prey, for I have observed them +continually floating around the cameleon, when scarcely discernible in any +other space. When the tongue is covered with a sufficient quantity it draws +it in instantaneously, and by incessantly repeating the operation, all the +insects within its reach are taken in the snare.</p> + +<p>That its health and existence depend upon being in the grass, I am +persuaded, from the change occasioned by placing it in gravel or sand, when +it immediately assumes a yellow tinge, its form is reduced considerably, +and the air expelled, with which the body of this animal is inflated, so as +visibly to reduce the size. If they are irritated in this situation, they +expell the air so strong as even to be heard, gradually decreasing in size, +and becoming more dull in colour, until at length they are almost black; +but upon being carried into the grass, or placed on the branches of a tree, +they quickly assume their wonted solidity and appearance.</p> + +<p>The victims of my observation I have frequently wrapped in cloth of +various colours, and have left them for a considerable time, but when I +visited them I did not find that they partook of any of the colours, but +uniformly were of a tarnished yellow, or greyish black, the colours they +always assume when in a state of suffering and distress, and I never could +succeed in making them take any other when in a situation of constraint. +The skin of the cameleon is of a very soft and delicate texture, and +appears to the observer similar to a shagreen skin, elastic and pliable; +and it may be owing to this extraordinary construction that it changes its +colours and size with that facility which astonishes us; but what may be +considered as a more wonderful faculty is, its expanding and contracting +itself at pleasure, and, as it were, retaining the fluid in an uniform +manner, when in health, but exhaling it when in a state of suffering, so as +to reduce its dimensions to a more contracted size. Its peculiar +organization is such, that the atmospheric air which it inhales so +generally throughout every part of its body, distends and projects even its +eyes and extremities. I have frequently seen it after many days fasting +become suddenly plump, and continue so for a fortnight, when immediately it +became nothing but a skeleton of skin and bone.</p> + +<p>The tenuity of its body is at these seasons astonishing, the spine of +its back becomes pointed, the flesh of its sides adhere to each other, and +apparently form one united subsance, when it will, in a few hours, at +pleasure, resume its rotund state; and this appears to me to be a most +extraordinary circumstance in the construction of this animal, which +invites the minutest research of the naturalist.</p> + +<p>To convince myself how far the assertion might be admitted, that the +cameleon can exist upon air, I have placed them in a cage, so constructed, +as to exclude any thing else, even the minutest insect; when I have visited +my captives, they have opened their mouths and expelled the air towards me +so as to be felt and heard. In the first stage of their privation and +imprisonment, which has continued for more than a month, I have found them +in continual motion around their prison, but afterwards their excursions +became more circumscribed, and they have sunk to the bottom, when their +powers of distension and contraction became languid and decreased, and were +never again capable of performing their accustomed transformation. The one +which I brought to England preserved in spirits, after undergoing upwards +of two months of famine, when I carried it among the grass, or placed it in +the thick foliage of a tree, in little more than a week regained its green +colour, and power of expansion; but not contented with my experiment, and +determined to ascertain it to the utmost, I redoubled my precautions to +exclude every thing but air, and my devoted victim was doomed to another +series of trial, and continued to exist upwards of a month, when it fell a +sacrifice to my curiosity.</p> + +<p>The eyes of the cameleon may also be considered a remarkable +singularity; they are covered with a thin membrane, which nature has given +it to supply the want of eye-lids, and this membrane is sunk in the centre +by a lengthened hole, which forms an orifice, bordered by a shining circle. +This covering follows all the motions of the eye so perfectly, that they +appear to be one and the same; and the aperture, or lengthened hole, is +always central to the pupil, the eyes moving in every direction, +independant of each other; one eye will be in motion while the other is +fixed, one looking behind while the other is looking before, and another +directed above while its companion is fixed on the earth, so that its eyes +move in every possible direction, independant of each other, without moving +the head, which is closely compacted with the shoulders.</p> + +<p>By these quick evolutions its personal safety is guarded, and it +perceives with quickness the insects and flies, which it is always +entrapping by its glutinous tongue.</p> + +<p>Without doubt, this species of lizard possesses peculiarities well +worthy the attention of naturalists, who only can define them; what I have +said I have observed in my leisure moments, and must be considered as a +very imperfect detail of its natural history.</p> + +<hr> +<H3><a name=SECTION_IV>SECTION IV.</a></H3> + +<p><i>Of the Interment of the Dead.</i></p> + +<p>The ceremony of burial upon the Windward Coast of Africa is conducted +with great singularity, solemnity, and extravagant circumstances of +condolence.</p> + +<p>The body of the deceased is wrapped up in a cloth, closely sewed around +it, and the head is covered with a white cap of cotton, which is the colour +universally adopted in mourning. The relatives of the deceased bedaub +themselves from head to foot with white clay, upon which they form the most +disgusting figures, while scarcely a leg or an arm exhibits the same +feature. I have even seen serpents and other frightful animals delineated +with great accuracy on many parts of the body, which gives them a most +hideous appearance during the season of mourning.</p> + +<p>When the corps has been washed, and put into a white cloth of cotton, of +the manufacture of the country, the whole is inclosed in a mat, and laid +out in state.</p> + +<p>The corps is placed over the grave upon four sticks across, and after +one of the nearest relatives has collected all the finery with which the +deceased was accustomed to decorate himself, and that also which remains +among his family, he asks him, with expressions of sorrow, if he wants such +and such an article for his comfort in the other world, in which he is +accompanied by the remainder of his family and friends, who join in +<i>making cry,</i> or more property speaking, in dancing and rejoicing. The +following night the dance and song is continued with demonstrations of +mirth and glee, and are kept up every successive night during that moon; +and if the deceased has been of consequence in his tribe, these extravagant +acts of lamentation continue for months together.</p> + +<p><i>On the Amusements, Musical Instruments, &c. of the Africans.</i></p> + +<p>Upon all occasions of mirth or sorrow, the dance is uniformly +introduced, with monotonous songs, sometimes tender and agreeable, at other +times savage and ferocious, but always accompanied by a slow movement; and +it may with propriety be said, that all the nights in Africa are spent in +dancing; for after the setting of the sun, every village resounds with +songs, and music; and I have often listened to them with attention and +pleasure, during the tranquil evenings of the dry season.</p> + +<p>Villages a league distant from each other frequently perform the same +song, and alternately change it, for hours together. While this harmonic +correspondence continues, and the inhabitants of the neighbouring villages +chaunt their couplets, the youth of both sexes listen with the greatest +attention and pleasure.</p> + +<p>Among the several kinds of instruments of music which accompany the +ceremonies of mourning or mirth among the Africans, the drum is the +principal. It is made from a hard thin wood, about three feet long, which +is covered with a skin distended to the utmost. They strike it with the +fingers of the right hand collected together, which serves to beat time in +all their dances. Among the Foulahs and Soosees they have a kind of flute, +made of a hard reed, which produces sounds both unmusical and harsh: but +all the Africans of the Windward district are the most barbarous musicians +that can be conceived.</p> + +<p>They have also a kind of guitar, formed from the calabash, which they +call <i>kilara</i>. Some of these are of an enormous size, and the musician +performs upon it by placing himself on the ground, and putting the +<i>kilara</i> between his thighs; he performs on it with both his hands, in +a manner similar to the playing on the harp in this country.</p> + +<p>They have another instrument of a very complicated construction, about +two feet deep, four feet long, and eighteen inches wide, which they call +<i>balafau</i>. It is constructed by parallel intervals, covered with bits +of hard polished wood, so as to give each a different tone, and are +connected by cords of catgut fastened at each extremity of the instrument. +The musician strikes these pieces of wood with knobbed sticks covered with +skin, which produces a most detestable jargon of confused noise.</p> + +<p>Jugglers and buffoons are very common, and are the constant attendants +of the courts of Negro kings and princes, upon whom they lavish the most +extravagant eulogiums, and abject flattery. These jesters are also the +panders of concupiscense; they are astrologers, musicians, and poets, and +are well received every where, and live by public contribution.</p> + +<hr> +<H3><a name=SECTION_V>SECTION V.</a></H3> + +<p><i>Concluding Observations.</i></p> + +<p>It has already been observed that cotton and indigo are indigenous to +the Windward Coast of Africa. Tobacco grows in every direction, likewise +cocoa, coffee, and aromatic plants would no doubt succeed by cultivation. A +trade in raw hides might be carried on to a great extent; and the articles +of wax, gold, ivory, emery, dyes, &c. might be greatly increased. +Substances for making soap are to be found in great abundance; cattle, +poultry, different kinds of game, fish, and various animals, fruits, and +roots, abound, affording a great variety of the necessaries and luxuries of +life: and European art and industry are only wanting to introduce the +extensive culture of the sugar cane. The warmth and nature of the climate +are peculiarly adapted to the maturing this plant, and there are many +situations from Cape Verde to Cape Palmas, where this valuable production +might undoubtedly be raised to great amount and perfection.</p> + +<p>In addition to the woods I have already named, there are many others for +building, viz. <i>todso, worsmore,</i> and a fine yellow wood, called +<i>barzilla</i>, the <i>black</i> and the <i>white mangrove</i>, boxwood of +a superior quality, <i>conta</i>, a remarkable fine wood for building, and +various kinds of mahogany, of a beautiful colour, and large dimensions.</p> + +<p>It has also been observed in the previous section, that one of the +musical instruments used by the Africans of the Windward Coast, named by +them <i>kilara</i>, is formed from the calabash, a pumpkin which grows from +the size of a goblet to that of a moderate sized tub, and serves every +purpose almost of household utensils.</p> + +<p>They divide this pumpkin into two hemispheres, with the utmost accuracy, +and it is excavated by pouring boiling water inside, to soften the pulp. +The inside is cleaned with great neatness, and they execute upon the +outside various designs and paintings, both fanciful and eccentric, such as +birds, beasts, serpents, alligators, &c.</p> + +<p>In fine, the objects of commerce and enjoyment in this country are, +comparatively speaking, inexhaustible; and this is a part of the world +which England has hitherto strangely neglected, because its mysteries are +unknown. It only requires the happy influence of civilization, agriculture, +and natural commerce, to surprize and enrich those, who humanely and wisely +interfere to procure these blessings to its inhabitants.</p> + +<p>The system of establishment to attain these important ends to our +commerce, and to the bewildered African, should be skilfully planned, and +wisely adapted to the <i>present condition</i> of the country, for the +<i>hasty conclusion of the abolition of the slave trade never can, in its +present state, meet the views and objects of rational humanity</i>. Is the +United Kingdom, at this crisis, when the enormous power of our adversary +has shut the door of commerce against us in every direction where his +influence and dictates command, to abandon Africa, so abundant and +versatile in its natural productions and resources, to contingencies, and +to the grasp of other nations? Forbid it, humanity, and forbid it, wise +policy! Let civil laws, religion, and morality, exercise their influence in +behalf of the Negro race, whom barbarism has subjected to our dominion, and +let the beneficence and wisdom of Government devise a system of agriculture +and commercial operation, upon the maritime situations of Africa, as the +most effectual means to freedom of intercourse with its interior.</p> + +<p>The operations of impracticable theories and misguided zeal have +accomplished an unqualified abolition of the slave trade, which I am +persuaded will be highly injurious to the commercial and manufacturing +interests of our country; and is a measure which humanity will have deeply +to deplore, while in its tendency it is pernicious to the African, and +auspicious to the views of France.</p> + +<p>Without doubt the ability and energies of the <i>present +administration</i> will be directed to avert these calamities; and amidst +the <i>important diliberations</i> which now occupy their attention, the +condition of Africa, the wealth derivable from so important a quarter of +the earth, and the relations involved with it, will not be overlooked by +them.</p> + +<center><br> +A VOCABULARY<br> +OF THE<br> +LANGUAGE OF THE PRINCIPAL NATIONS OF THE<br> +WINDWARD COAST OF AFRICA.<br> +</center><br> +<br> + +<table> +<tr><td>ENGLISH</td><td>JOLLIFF</td><td>SOOSEE</td><td>TIMMANEE</td></tr> +<tr><td>——————</td><td>—————————-</td><td>——————————</td><td>————————</td></tr> +<tr><td>One</td><td>Ben</td><td>Kiring</td><td>Pen</td></tr> +<tr><td>Two</td><td>Yar</td><td>Faring</td><td>Prung</td></tr> +<tr><td>Three</td><td>Niet</td><td>Shooking</td><td>Tisas</td></tr> +<tr><td>Four</td><td>Nianett</td><td>Nari</td><td>Pánlee</td></tr> +<tr><td>Five</td><td>Gurum</td><td>Shooli</td><td>Tomát</td></tr> +<tr><td>Six</td><td>Gurum ben</td><td>Shinie</td><td>Rókin</td></tr> +<tr><td>Seven</td><td>Gurum yar</td><td>Shulifiring</td><td>Dayring</td></tr> +<tr><td>Eight</td><td>Gurum Niet</td><td>Shulimashukúng</td><td>Daysas</td></tr> +<tr><td>Nine</td><td>Gurum Niant</td><td>Shulimang</td><td>Daynga</td></tr> +<tr><td>Ten</td><td>Fue</td><td>Fooang</td><td>Tofot</td></tr> +<tr><td>Twenty</td><td>Nill</td><td>Mahwinia</td><td>Tofot Marung</td></tr> +<tr><td>Thirty</td><td>Fanever</td><td>Tongashukúng</td><td>Tofot Masas</td></tr> +<tr><td>Forty</td><td>Nianett Fue</td><td>Tonganani</td><td>Tofot Manlu</td></tr> +<tr><td>Fifty</td><td>Guaum Fue</td><td>Tongashulang</td><td>Tofot Tomat</td></tr> +<tr><td>Sixty</td><td>Gurum ben Fue</td><td>Tongashini</td><td>Tofot Rokin</td></tr> +<tr><td>Seventy</td><td>Gurum yar Fue</td><td>Tongashulifiring</td><td>Tofot Dayring</td></tr> +<tr><td>Eighty</td><td>Gurum Niet Fue</td><td>Tongashulimashakung</td><td>Tofot Daysas</td></tr> +<tr><td>Ninety</td><td>Gurum Nianet Fue</td><td>Tongashulimanáne</td><td>Tofot Danygah</td></tr> +<tr><td>One Hundred</td><td>Temer</td><td>Kimé</td><td>Tofot Tofot</td></tr> +<tr><td>I</td><td></td><td>Emtang</td><td>Eto or Munga</td></tr> +<tr><td>Thou</td><td></td><td>Etang</td><td>Moota or Moonga</td></tr> +<tr><td>He</td><td></td><td>Atang</td><td>Otto or Ken</td></tr> +<tr><td>It</td><td></td><td>Atang</td><td>Ree</td></tr> +<tr><td>We</td><td></td><td>Mackutang</td><td>Sitta or Shang</td></tr> +<tr><td>Ye</td><td></td><td>Wotang</td><td>Angsha</td></tr> +<tr><td>They</td><td></td><td>Etang</td><td>Angna</td></tr> +<tr><td>God</td><td>Tallah</td><td></td><td></td></tr> +<tr><td>The Devil</td><td>Ghiné</td><td></td><td></td></tr> +<tr><td>Heaven</td><td>Assaman</td><td></td><td></td></tr> +</table> + +<br> + +<table> +<tr><td>ENGLISH</td><td>JOLLIFF</td><td>SOOSEE</td><td>MANDINGO</td></tr> +<tr><td>——————</td><td>——————————</td><td>———————-</td><td>—————————</td></tr> +<tr><td>The Sun</td><td>Burham Safara</td><td>Shuge</td><td>Teelee</td></tr> +<tr><td>The Moon</td><td>Burham Safara Lion</td><td>Kige</td><td>Koro</td></tr> +<tr><td>Gold</td><td>Ourous</td><td></td><td>Sanoo</td></tr> +<tr><td>Father</td><td>Bail</td><td>Taffe</td><td>Fa</td></tr> +<tr><td>My Father</td><td>Samma Bail</td><td></td><td></td></tr> +<tr><td>Mother</td><td>De</td><td>Inga</td><td>Ba</td></tr> +<tr><td>My Mother</td><td>Samma De</td><td></td><td></td></tr> +<tr><td>Man</td><td>Gour</td><td></td><td>Mo or Fato</td></tr> +<tr><td>Woman</td><td>Diguén</td><td></td><td>Mooséa</td></tr> +<tr><td>Brother</td><td>Rak Gour</td><td>Tarakunjia</td><td>Ba Ding Kea</td></tr> +<tr><td>My Brother</td><td>Samma Rak Gour</td><td></td><td></td></tr> +<tr><td>Sister</td><td>Rak Diguén</td><td>Magine</td><td>Ba Ding Mooséa</td></tr> +<tr><td>My Sister</td><td>Samma Rak Diguén</td><td></td><td></td></tr> +<tr><td>Head</td><td>Bop</td><td>Hung Hungji</td><td>Roon</td></tr> +<tr><td>My Head</td><td>Samma Bop</td><td></td><td></td></tr> +<tr><td>Tongue</td><td>Lamin</td><td>Ning Ningje</td><td>Ning</td></tr> +<tr><td>Mouth</td><td>Guémin</td><td>Dé</td><td>Da</td></tr> +<tr><td>Nose</td><td>Bauane</td><td>Nieue</td><td>Nung</td></tr> +<tr><td>Bread</td><td>Bourou</td><td></td><td>Munko</td></tr> +<tr><td>Water</td><td>Dock</td><td></td><td>Gee</td></tr> +<tr><td>Teeth</td><td>Guené</td><td></td><td></td></tr> +<tr><td>Bowels</td><td>Bouthet</td><td></td><td></td></tr> +<tr><td>Belly</td><td>Birr</td><td></td><td>Kono</td></tr> +<tr><td>Fingers</td><td>Baram</td><td></td><td>Boalla Ronding</td></tr> +<tr><td>Arm</td><td>Lokoó</td><td></td><td>Boalla Same for hand.</td></tr> +<tr><td>Hair</td><td>Cayor</td><td></td><td></td></tr> +<tr><td>The Beard</td><td>Jekim</td><td>Habe de Habe</td><td>Bora</td></tr> +<tr><td>White</td><td>Toulha é</td><td>Fihe</td><td>Qui</td></tr> +<tr><td>Black</td><td>Jolof</td><td>Foro</td><td>Fing</td></tr> +<tr><td>Good</td><td>Bachna</td><td>Fang</td><td>Bettie</td></tr> +<tr><td>Bad</td><td>Bahout</td><td>Niaake</td><td>Jox</td></tr> +</table> + +<br> + +<table> +<tr><td>ENGLISH</td><td>SOOSEE</td></tr> +<tr><td>——————————————————-</td><td>————————————</td></tr> +<tr><td>Elephant</td><td>Siti</td></tr> +<tr><td>Camelion</td><td>Kolungji</td></tr> +<tr><td>Horse</td><td>Shuoe</td></tr> +<tr><td>Cow</td><td>Ninkgegine</td></tr> +<tr><td>Goat</td><td>Shee</td></tr> +<tr><td>Sheep</td><td>Juké</td></tr> +<tr><td>Leopard</td><td>Shuko she</td></tr> +<tr><td>Alligator</td><td>Shonge</td></tr> +<tr><td>Parrot</td><td>Kalle</td></tr> +<tr><td>Shark</td><td>Sark</td></tr> +<tr><td>Honey</td><td>Kume</td></tr> +<tr><td>White ant, termite, &c.</td><td>Bugabuge</td></tr> +<tr><td>(or Bug a bug)</td><td></td></tr> +<tr><td>The Sea</td><td>Baa</td></tr> +<tr><td>Earth</td><td>Bohe</td></tr> +<tr><td>Knife</td><td>Finé</td></tr> +<tr><td>Shirt</td><td>Doma</td></tr> +<tr><td>Trowsers</td><td>Wangtanji</td></tr> +<tr><td>Brass pan</td><td>Tang kue</td></tr> +<tr><td>House</td><td>Bankhi</td></tr> +<tr><td>Door</td><td>Dé nadé</td></tr> +<tr><td>Day</td><td>Hi</td></tr> +<tr><td>Night</td><td>Qué</td></tr> +<tr><td>Health</td><td>Maié langfe</td></tr> +<tr><td>Sickness</td><td>Fura</td></tr> +<tr><td>Pain</td><td>Whondi, Whona fe</td></tr> +<tr><td>Love</td><td>Whuli</td></tr> +<tr><td>Hatred</td><td>Niaahú</td></tr> +<tr><td>Road</td><td>Kirá</td></tr> +<tr><td>Idle</td><td>Kobi</td></tr> +<tr><td>Hot</td><td>Furi, furihe</td></tr> +<tr><td>Cold</td><td>Himbeli</td></tr> +<tr><td>What are you doing?</td><td>Emung she ra falama?</td></tr> +<tr><td>Tornado</td><td>Tuliakbegle</td></tr> +<tr><td>Which way are you going?</td><td>Esigama mung kirara</td></tr> +<tr><td>To trade</td><td>Sera Shofe</td></tr> +<tr><td>Make haste</td><td>Arâ bafe mafurì</td></tr> +<tr><td>To Kill</td><td>Fuka fe</td></tr> +<tr><td>To Quarrel</td><td>Gerì shofe</td></tr> +<tr><td>To Sing</td><td>Shige sháfe</td></tr> +<tr><td>To beat the drum</td><td>Fare mokafé</td></tr> +<tr><td>Have you done?</td><td>Ebanta gei?</td></tr> +<tr><td>Are you afraid?</td><td>Egahama?</td></tr> +<tr><td>He is not yet gone</td><td>A mú siga sending</td></tr> +<tr><td>Stand still</td><td>Tife ira hara</td></tr> +<tr><td>Run</td><td>Gee fé</td></tr> +<tr><td>Leap, or Jump</td><td>Tubang fe</td></tr> +<tr><td>Have you slept well?</td><td>Eheo keefang?</td></tr> +<tr><td>Do you understand Soosee?</td><td>Esusee whi mema?</td></tr> +<tr><td>I am hungry</td><td>Kaame em shukuma</td></tr> +<tr><td>Eat</td><td>Dong</td></tr> +<tr><td>Let us go</td><td>Woem hasiga</td></tr> +<tr><td>Will you go with me?</td><td>Esigáma em fokhera</td></tr> +<tr><td>I have no money</td><td>Náfuli muna embe</td></tr> +<tr><td>How much do you want?</td><td>E' wama ierekong</td></tr> +<tr><td>Sit down</td><td>Dokha</td></tr> +<tr><td>How do you do</td><td>E'mung keé?</td></tr> +<tr><td>Very well</td><td>Em melang hekeefang</td></tr> +<tr><td>Give me some rice?</td><td>Málungdundundifeemma</td></tr> +<tr><td>Here</td><td>Be</td></tr> +<tr><td>What is your name?</td><td>Ehili mungkee?</td></tr> +<tr><td>I love you</td><td>Efanghe emma</td></tr> +<tr><td>If you want rice I will give you some</td><td>Ha ewama málunghong eminda fuma éma</td></tr> +<tr><td>Let us go together.</td><td>Meekufiring ha siga</td></tr> +</table> + +<br> + +<table> +<tr><td>ENGLISH</td><td>JOLLIFF</td></tr> +<tr><td>——————————————</td><td>———————————-</td></tr> +<tr><td>Goat</td><td>Phas</td></tr> +<tr><td>Sheep</td><td>Zedre</td></tr> +<tr><td>Wolf</td><td>Bouki</td></tr> +<tr><td>Elephant</td><td>Guìé</td></tr> +<tr><td>Ox</td><td>Nack</td></tr> +<tr><td>Fish</td><td>Guienn</td></tr> +<tr><td>Horse</td><td>Ghénapp</td></tr> +<tr><td>Butter</td><td>Dión</td></tr> +<tr><td>Milk</td><td>Sán</td></tr> +<tr><td>Tiger</td><td>Shaglé</td></tr> +<tr><td>Iron</td><td>Vina</td></tr> +<tr><td>Millet</td><td>Doughoul</td></tr> +<tr><td>Quiver</td><td>Smagalla</td></tr> +<tr><td>To dance</td><td>Faik</td></tr> +<tr><td>To sing</td><td>Ouhai</td></tr> +<tr><td>To-day</td><td>Thei</td></tr> +<tr><td>To-morrow</td><td>Elleck, or Mek</td></tr> +<tr><td>Yesterday</td><td>Demb</td></tr> +<tr><td>A tree</td><td>Garallun</td></tr> +<tr><td>To drink</td><td>Nán</td></tr> +<tr><td>To eat</td><td>Leck ou leckamm</td></tr> +<tr><td>She is remarkably handsome</td><td>Sama rafitnalóll</td></tr> +<tr><td>Good day</td><td>Dhiarakio</td></tr> +<tr><td>Good day Sir</td><td>Dhiarakio-Samba</td></tr> +<tr><td>Good night</td><td>Fhanandiam</td></tr> +<tr><td>Come here?</td><td>Kahihfie</td></tr> +<tr><td>Yes</td><td>Ouaa</td></tr> +<tr><td>No</td><td>Dhiett</td></tr> +<tr><td>How do you do?</td><td>Dhya mésa?</td></tr> +<tr><td>Very well</td><td>Dhya medal</td></tr> +<tr><td>Buy</td><td>Ghuyendé</td></tr> +<tr><td>Sell</td><td>Ghuyal</td></tr> +<tr><td>Take</td><td>Diapol</td></tr> +<tr><td>I will</td><td>Benguéna</td></tr> +<tr><td>I thank you</td><td>Guérum nalá</td></tr> +<tr><td>A bar of Iron</td><td>Baravin</td></tr> +<tr><td>What did you say?</td><td>Loung a houche</td></tr> +<tr><td>Can you speak Joliff?</td><td>Dígenga Jolliff</td></tr> +<tr><td>How much did that cost?</td><td>Niatar ladiar?</td></tr> +<tr><td>Give me</td><td>Maniman</td></tr> +<tr><td>I love you from my heart</td><td>Sépenata tié somo koll</td></tr> +</table> + +<br> + +<table> +<tr><td>ENGLISH</td><td>TEMMANEE</td><td>BULLOM</td></tr> +<tr><td>———————————-</td><td>————————————</td><td>————————</td></tr> +<tr><td>How do you do?</td><td>Currea</td><td>Lemmoó</td></tr> +<tr><td>I return you service,</td><td>Bá</td><td>Bá</td></tr> +<tr><td>or salute</td><td></td><td></td></tr> +<tr><td>Are you well?</td><td>Too pay</td><td>Appay wa?</td></tr> +<tr><td>Very well</td><td>Tai ó tai</td><td>Pay chin lin</td></tr> +<tr><td>What is your name?</td><td>Gnay see mooa?</td><td>Illil é móa?</td></tr> +<tr><td>Give me a little rice</td><td>Song mee pilla pittun</td><td>Knamée opillay</td></tr> +<tr><td></td><td></td><td>otayk</td></tr> +<tr><td>Yes</td><td>A</td><td>A</td></tr> +<tr><td>No</td><td>Deh</td><td>Be</td></tr> +<tr><td>Is your father at home?</td><td>Pa ka moo oyá roshaytee?</td><td>Appa moway lore</td></tr> +<tr><td></td><td></td><td>ko killayée</td></tr> +<tr><td>He is</td><td>Oéeree</td><td>Way lorre</td></tr> +<tr><td>What do you want?</td><td>Ko nyaymaee?</td><td>Yeng yayma?</td></tr> +<tr><td>Why do you do so?</td><td>Ko sum kingyotteeay</td><td>Yaywum layngalla</td></tr> +<tr><td>I beg your pardon</td><td>A marree moo</td><td>Lum marra mó</td></tr> +</table> + +<br> + +<table> +<tr><td>ENGLISH</td><td>TEMMANEK</td><td>BULLOM</td></tr> +<tr><td>——————————</td><td>——————————</td><td>———————————-</td></tr> +<tr><td>I love you</td><td>Ee bóter moo</td><td>A marra mo</td></tr> +<tr><td>Let me alone</td><td>Tuoy mee</td><td>Y'nfolmee</td></tr> +<tr><td>Let me go</td><td>Teer amee</td><td>Y'mmelmee</td></tr> +<tr><td>Sit down</td><td>Yeera</td><td>Y'nchal</td></tr> +<tr><td>I am hungry</td><td>Durabang mee</td><td>Nrik mi a me</td></tr> +<tr><td>Shut the door</td><td>Kanta kayraree</td><td>Ingkunta fong fólootay</td></tr> +<tr><td>Will you go with me?</td><td>Yintoo kó pey a mee?</td><td>Mo mee ko day ree</td></tr> +<tr><td>Where are you going?</td><td>Ray mó kóay.</td><td>Lomo koa</td></tr> +<tr><td>Here</td><td>Unno</td><td>Kakée or ha</td></tr> +<tr><td>Forward</td><td>Kihdee</td><td>Ebol</td></tr> +<tr><td>Backward</td><td>Rarung</td><td>Wayling</td></tr> +<tr><td>To-day</td><td>Taynung</td><td>Eenang</td></tr> +<tr><td>To-morrow</td><td>Anéenang</td><td>Beng</td></tr> +<tr><td>Sometimes</td><td>Olokko ollon</td><td>Lokkó poom</td></tr> +<tr><td>And</td><td>Ray</td><td>Na</td></tr> +<tr><td>Good bye</td><td>Mang peearó</td><td>Heepeeáró</td></tr> +</table> +<br> + +<p>** The foregoing Vocabulary, and imperfect number of words, may serve to +give some idea of a part of the languages on the Windward Coast of Africa. +From those accidents to which the traveller is continually exposed, I have +unfortunately lost what I am persuaded was a very accurate vocabulary of +the Jolliff, Foulah, Maudingo, Soosee, Bullom, and Temmanee tongues, which +I had arranged under the correction of a very intelligent trader long +resident upon the Windward Coast. Owing to this misfortune I have been +obliged to refer to scattered memoranda only, which I know to correspond +correctly with the document I allude to. As the Foulah and Mandingo nations +are of most consequence in attempts at civilization, I have to regret +exceedingly that I have not been able to give the languages of those +nations more at large.</p> + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Observations Upon The Windward Coast +Of Africa, by Joseph Corry + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE WINDWARD COAST OF AFRICA *** + +***** This file should be named 12539-h.htm or 12539-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/1/2/5/3/12539/ + +Produced by Carlo Traverso, Willy De la Court and Distributed +Proofreaders Europe, http://dp.rastko.net. This file was produced +from images generously made available by the Bibliotheque nationale +de France (BnF/Gallica) at http://gallica.bnf.fr. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Observations Upon The Windward Coast Of Africa + +Author: Joseph Corry + +Release Date: June 6, 2004 [EBook #12539] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE WINDWARD COAST OF AFRICA *** + + + + +Produced by Carlo Traverso, Willy De la Court and Distributed +Proofreaders Europe, http://dp.rastko.net. This file was produced +from images generously made available by the Bibliotheque nationale +de France (BnF/Gallica) at http://gallica.bnf.fr. Willy De la Court + + + + + +[Illustration: A MANDINGO CHIEF, and his HEADMAN, in their COSTUME, & other +NATIVES] + + + + + OBSERVATIONS + UPON THE + WINDWARD COAST OF AFRICA, + THE + RELIGION, CHARACTER, CUSTOMS, &c. + OF THE NATIVES; + WITH A + SYSTEM UPON WHICH THEY MAY BE CIVILIZED, + AND A + KNOWLEDGE ATTAINED OF THE INTERIOR OF THIS EXTRAORDINARY + QUARTER OF THE GLOBE; + AND UPON + THE NATURAL AND COMMERCIAL RESOURCES OF THE COUNTRY; + MADE IN THE YEARS 1805 AND 1806. + + BY JOSEPH CORRY. + + WITH AN APPENDIX, + CONTAINING + A LETTER TO LORD HOWICK, ON THE MOST SIMPLE AND EFFECTUAL + MEANS OF ABOLISHING THE SLAVE TRADE. + + + + LONDON: +PRINTED FOR G. AND W. NICOL, BOOKSELLERS TO HIS MAJESTY, PALL-MALL; + AND JAMES ASPERNE, CORNHILL. + BY W. BULMER AND CO. CLEVELAND ROW, ST. JAMES'S + 1807. + + + + + TO + THE RIGHT HONOURABLE + LORD VISCOUNT CASTLEREAGH, + ONE OF HIS MAJESTY'S PRINCIPAL SECRETARIES + OF STATE FOR FOREIGN AFFAIRS. + + + + MY LORD, + + +Hightly flattered by your Lordship's polite condescension, in permitting me +to inscribe to you the following Pages, I return your Lordship my most +unfeigned thanks. + +If they meet your Lordship's approbation, and that of a discerning Public; +or if they tend in the most remote degree to excite more intelligent +efforts and more active enterprise on behalf of the unenlightened African, +or to augment the Commerce of the United Kingdom with a Country, now in +danger of falling into the hands of our Enemies, I shall feel an ample +reward for the risques and dangers to which I have been exposed in +collecting these Fragments; while the occasion gives me the opportunity of +subscribing myself, + + + With grateful acknowledgments, + Your Lordship's + Most obedient, and devoted humble Servant, + + + + JOSEPH CORRY, + +PREFACE. + +With becoming deference, I shall endeavour to illustrate in the following +pages, the observations I have personally made upon the Coast of Africa, +and to give the information I have obtained from an extended circle of +Chiefs, and native Tribes, relative to its Inhabitants, their Religion, +Habits and Customs, the natural productions and commercial resources, &c. +and attempt to delineate the most eligible grounds upon which the condition +of the African may be effectually improved, and our commercial relations be +preserved with that important quarter of the globe. + +Though deeply impressed with the importance of the subject, and my own +incompetency, I obtrude myself upon Public notice, governed by this +reflection, that I am stimulated by an ardent zeal for the prosperity of my +Country, and am animated by a philanthropic solicitude for the effectual +manumission of the African, from his enslaved customs, his superstitious +idolatry, and for the enlargement of his intellectual powers. + +I shall guard against the sacrifice of truth to abstracted principles; and +if in the most remote degree, I excite the interference of my countrymen in +behalf of the African, extend our commerce, and enlarge the circle of +civilized and Christian Society, I shall think that I have neither +travelled, nor written in vain. + +Africa is a country hitherto but little known; those in general who have +visited it, have been either inadequate to research, or have been absorbed +in the immediate attainment of gain; moreover the European Traveller in +that country has to contend with the combined influence of the native +jealousies of its inhabitants, their hereditary barbarism, obstinate +ferocity, and above all, an uncongenial climate. To surmount these +difficulties, commerce is the most certain medium to inspire its Chiefs and +Natives with confidence, and to obtain a facility of intercourse with the +Interior country. Sanctioned by that pursuit, I have been favoured with +information from a large circle of Native Chiefs, and Tribes, relative to +their customs, their habits, localities, predilections, and the existing +state of society. + +The impressions, which ocular demonstration, and personal investigation +occasion upon visiting this uncultivated country, are so different from +those excited in any other district of the globe, and so powerful, that the +mind is naturally led to meditation on the means of its improvement and on +the mode by which it may be ameliorated, and the sources of commerce be +essentially enlarged. + +Europe, which merits the highest rank for philanthropy, has hitherto +strangely neglected this country; nor have the attempts of individuals and +benevolent Societies been productive in endeavouring to diffuse the +influence of civilization, and to desseminate the seeds of science +throughout these extensive regions. + +Trusting that my endeavours to befriend the Natives of Africa, and to +extend the Commerce of my Country, will shield me from the severity of +animadversion, and of criticism, I shall proceed in my relation. + + + J. CORRY. +_September 1st, 1807_. + + +CONTENTS. + +CHAPTER I. + +Remarks from the Period of Embarkation at St. Helen's, till the Arrival at +Sierra Leone--Sketches of the Land seen in the Passage--its Bearings and +Distance--Observations upon the Bay and Entrance of Sierra Leone River, &c. + +CHAPTER II. + +The Author leaves Bance Island.--Visits the Colony of Sierra +Leone.--Delivers his introductory Letter to the late Governor Day, from +whom he experiences a most hospitable Reception.--Cursory Remarks upon that +Colony, and upon the Islands of Banana.--His Embarkation for the Island of +Goree, &c. + +CHAPTER III. + +An Excursion to the main Land.--Visit to King Marraboo.--Anecdotes of this +Chief.--Another Excursion, accompanied by Mr. Hamilton.--A shooting Party, +acccompanied by Marraboo's Son, Alexander, and other Chiefs.--Reflections +upon Information obtained from them, and at Goree, relative to this Part of +the Coast.--Embark in his Majesty's Sloop of War the Eugenia, which +convoyed Mr. Mungo Park in the Brig Crescent, to the River Gambia, on his +late Mission to the Interior of Africa.--Observations on that +Subject.--Arrive in Porto Praya Bay, in the Island of St. Jago.--Some +Remarks upon that Island.--Departure from thence to England, and safe +Arrival at Portsmouth + +CHAPTER IV. + +The Author proceeds to London.--Re-embarks for Africa.--Arrives at +Madeira.--Observations on that Island.--Prosecution of the Voyage, and +Arrival in the Sierra Leone River, &c. + +CHAPTER V. + +Observations upon the natural Productions of the River Sierra Leone.--The +Author explores its Branches, interior to Bance Island, the Rochelle, and +the Port Logo.--The Manners and Customs of the Inhabitants.--Their +Commerce.--The Author's safe Arrival at Miffare + +CHAPTER VI. + +Return to Bance Island.--General Observations on the Commerce, Religion, +Customs, and Character of the Natives upon the Windward Coast.--An Account +of the requisite Merchandize for Trade, the best Mode of introducing +natural Commerce and Civilization into Africa, &c. + +CHAPTER VII. + +The Mode of Trial by _Ordeal_ and _Red Water_ in Africa.--The Wars of its +Inhabitants.--The State of Barbarism and Slavery considered.--The Condition +of the Africans will not be improved by a late Legislative Act, without +further Interference.--Salutary Measures must be adopted towards the +Negroes in the Colonies.--A System suggested to abolish Slavery in Africa, +and the Slave Trade in general, and to enlarge the intellectual Powers of +its Inhabitants.--The proper Positions to effect an Opening to the Interior +of Africa, and to display to the World its manifold Resources + +CHAPTER VIII. + +What the Anthor conceives should be the System of Establishment to make +effectual the Operations from Cape Verd to Cape Palmas.--Reasons for +subjecting the Whole to one Superior and controlling Administration.--The +Situations, in his Estimation, where principal Depots may be established, +and auxiliary Factories may be placed, &c. &c. + +CHAPTER IX. + +The Author embarks in the Ship Minerva.--Proceeds to the Rio +Pongo.--Disquisitions thereon.--Further Observations on the Inhabitants, +obtained from Natives of various Nations met with there.--The Isles de +Loss.--Returns to Sierra Leone, &c. + +CHAPTER X. + +The Author visits the Isles de Loss.--Remarks on those Islands.--Touches at +the River Scarcies.--Arrives at the Colony of Sierra Leone.--Embarks for +the West Indies--Lands at the Colony of Demerary.--Some Observations on the +Productions of that Colony, Berbice, and Essequibo, and on the Importance +of Dutch Guiana to the United Kingdom in a political and commercial View + +CHAPTER XI. + +Conclusion + +APPENDIX. + +No. I. + +Letter to the Right Honourable Lord Viscount Howick, His Majesty's late +principal Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs, on the Eve of his +Lordship introducing the late Bill into Parliament for the Abolition of the +Slave Trade; shewing at one View the most simple and ready Mode of +gradually and effectually abolishing the Slave Trade, and eradicating +Slavery + +No. II. + +Letter to the Right Honourable the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, +referred to in the foregoing Letter to Lord Howick + +No. III. + +Of the Purrah + +Of the _Termite_, _Termes_, or _Bug a Bug_, as it is called by the Natives +upon the Windward Coast of Africa + +Of the Camelion + +On the Interment of the Dead + +On the Amusements, Musical Instruments, &c. of the Africans + +Concluding Observations + +Vocabulary of the Languages of the principal Nations of the Windward Coast +of Africa + +DIRECTIONS TO THE BINDER. + +Mandingo Chief and his Head Man, with other Natives in their Costume, to +face the Title Page. + +Sketch of the Windward Coast of Africa to face page 1 + +Palma + +The Colony of Sierra Leone and Islands of Banana + +Island of Goree + +Porto Praya, Island of St. Jago + +Island of Fogo, Cape Verd + +Island of St. Jago, and Paps of Cape Verd + +Bance Island, River Sierra Leone + +In illustration of the above Plates, it may be satisfactory to the Reader +to explain that the Turban, in the Frontispiece, distinguishes the +_Mandingo Chief_; and that the Cap, which adorns the _Head Man_, is +embroidered by _themselves_ on scarlet cloth procured from Europeans in +trade, and is executed with great ingenuity. + +The narrow stripe of blue cloth suspended behind from the covering which +adorns one of the figures in the back ground, distinguishes a female in the +state of virginity. + +This distinguishing mark of _virgin purity_ is uniformly removed upon +entering into the matrimonial state, and is called by the Timmauees +_Tintanjey_. + +In the Plate of Bance Island, River Sierra Leone, page 33, is a correct +representation of the _Pullam_ tree, described in page 38, as bearing a +species of silk cotton, or ether down, and is much revered by the natives, +who consider it in many instances as their _Fetish_. + + +* * * * * + + +ERRATA. + + + + Page 54, line 8, for _gallunas_ read _galhinas_. + 62 2, for _is derived from the African gris-gris_, read, + _is the expression from which the African gris-gris is_ + _derived_. + 64 20, for _lugras_, read _lugars_. + 92 6, for _bungra_, read _bangra_. + + + + + + +[Illustration: SKETCH OF THE WINDWARD COAST OF AFRICA] + + + + + + OBSERVATIONS + UPON THE + WINDWARD COAST OF AFRICA. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + + + + +_Remarks from the Period of my Embarkation at St. Helens, to my arrival at +Sierra Leone--Sketches of the Land discovered in the Passage--its Bearings +and Distance--with Observations upon the Bay and Entrance of Sierra Leone +River, &c._ + +Previous to my arrival and landing in the river Sierra Leone, on the 6th of +April, 1805, I shall notice my passage, and display the sketches I have +taken of the land we fell in with, its bearings and distance, for the +observation of the mariner, which from position and prominence to the +Atlantic, claim his most serious attention in running down the coast of +Africa to-windward.[1] + +On the 9th March, 1805, I sailed from St. Helens in the ship Thames, +commanded by James Welsh, in company with a fleet of ships bound to the +East Indies, under convoy of his Majesty's ship Indostan. We had a +favourable run down Channel; but, after making to the westward of Scilly, +a heavy gale of wind separated the Thames from the convoy, which we never +afterwards regained, and were therefore obliged, at all hazards, to +proceed for our destination upon the coast of Africa. + +Nothing interesting occurred during a prosperous and quick passage, until +the high land of Sierra Leone appeared in view on the evening of the 5th of +April. We came to an anchor outside the Capes, and weighed the next +morning, steering our course for the river. + +The space between Leopard's Island, situated to the north, and Cape Sierra +Leone to the south, forms the entrance into the river Sierra Leone; being +in latitude 8 deg. 30" N. and in 13 deg. 43" W. long. and is computed about seven +geographical leagues distant. The river empties itself immediately into the +ocean; and its level banks to the north are covered with impervious +forests, while those to the south exhibit the romantic scenery of an +extended chain of lofty mountains and hills, clothed and ornamented with +foliage of the most luxuriant nature, exciting the highest admiration in +those who are susceptible of the impressions which the sublime works of the +creation never fail to inspire. + +Upon entering the bay, the eye is attracted by an extensive river, +circumscribed by the foregoing outline, and exhibiting upon its banks an +assemblage of the productions of nature, vegetating in their native purity. +This view is animated by the prospect of the colony of Sierra Leone, and +the masts of vessels and craft which commerce, and a safe anchorage, +encourage to assemble before it, and by numerous natives paddling with +great dexterity in their canoes. + + + +[Illustration: PALMA bearing S. by W. distant about 8 leagues from A +Published Aug 1 1807 by G & W Nicol] + + + +As I shall have occasion to speak hereafter of the importance of this bay +in a commercial and agricultural point of view, I shall not at present +enter into farther details; but only suggest that I consider it as a +position from whence active enterprize may perform its operations +throughout an extensive district, and derive the most important advantages. + +At two. P.M. came to an anchor before the fort and settlement of Bance +Island, which we saluted with seven guns. The river is navigable up to this +island for ships, and small craft proceed a number of miles higher, on the +branches of the Port Logo and Rochell. It is obscured from the view by the +island of Tasso, until bearing round a point of that island called Tasso +Point; the eye is then attracted by a regular fortification, and even an +elegant range of buildings and store-houses, which, with great propriety, +may be considered as one of the most desirable positions upon the windward +coast of Africa, to command the interior commerce of the countries +bordering upon the river Sierra Leone and its branches, and that of the +rivers to the northward, the Scarcies and adjoining rivers, the Rio Pongo, +with the Isles De Loss, Rio Grande, Rio Noonez, &c. and those which fall +into the sea from Cape Sierra Leone to Cape Palmas. + +Tasso is an island adjoining, about a mile and a half distant, of some +extent, and a remarkably fertile soil. It is attached to Bance Island; +bearing cotton of a very good staple, and is capable of producing any +tropical production. Considerable labour and expense have been applied to +introduce cultivation into this island, and to exemplify to the African the +advantages derivable from his native soil, by the civil arts of life; while +under a still more scientific superintendency, it would become a possession +of very considerable consequence in an agricultural view. + +Bance Island is little more than a barren rock, of about three-quarters of +a mile in extent. The entrance into the fort is through a folding door or +gate, over which, throughout the night, a watch is constantly placed. The +expectations excited by its external appearance were by no means lessened +by a view of the interior of the fort, in which were assembled several +traders, and chiefs, with their attendants. I was much the object of their +curiosity and attention; and in their manner, all came up to me, to _give +me service _, as expressed in the idiom of their language. This ceremony is +simply performed by touching the fingers, accompanied in the Timminy +language by the usual obeisance of _Currea _, or, how do you do? The reply +to this is _Ba_, which means good, I return you service. + +The Grumittas, or free black people, are assembled outside the fort, in +houses or huts built with mud, upon the general construction in Africa, +which usually is an oblong square, raised little more than eight feet; or a +circle of the same height, over which is thrown a roof of bamboo, or other +thatch, supported by posts about five or six feet asunder, forming a +canopy, which shelters them from the rays of the sun, or the inclemency of +the weather, and affords a shade under which they retire in the extreme +heat of the day, where they repose in their hammocks, or rest upon their +mats. This group of buildings or huts is denominated Adam's Town, from the +black chief who presides over these labouring people. Their numbers may be +estimated at about 600. Originally they were slaves to the proprietors of +this island; but from a very humane and wise policy, they have been endowed +with certain privileges, which rescue them from an absolute state of +slavery, and prevents their being sold as slaves, unless they are convicted +by the laws and customs of their country of some crime or delinquency. + +Among these people are artizans in various branches, viz. smiths, +carpenters, joiners, masons, &c. under the superintendance of Europeans in +their different trades, who for ingenuity and adroitness in their +respective capacities, would deserve the approbation even of the +connoisseur in these arts; while in many other instances they discover a +genius of the most intelligent character, and a decency in their dress and +manners distinguished from that among the surrounding tribes; which is the +never failing consequence of the influence of the arts of civilized society +over barbarous customs and habits. + +[Footnote 1: Perhaps it will be considered by the reader a singular +phenomenon, that the upper region of _Palma_ was covered with snow.] + + + + +CHAPTER II. + + + + +_The Author leaves Bance Island--Visits the Colony of Sierra +Leone--Delivers his introductory Letter to the late Governor Day, from whom +he experiences a most hospitable Reception--Cursory Remarks upon that +Colony and upon the Islands of Bannana--His Embarkation for the Island of +Goree, &c._ + +From the 6th to the 8td April, I remained at Bance Island, and having +determined to embark for Europe, where circumstances required me by the +first conveyance, I visited the colony of Sierra Leone, then under the +government of the late Capt. William Day, of the Royal Navy, to whom I had +a recommendatory letter. His reception of me was in conformity with his +general character, distinguished for urbanity and polite hospitality; and +such were the impressions upon my mind, both from observation and report, +of the skill and penetration he possessed to fulfil the arduous duties of +his station, that they never will be effaced, and I shall ever retain the +highest respect for his memory. He was then occupied in forming plans of +defence in the colony; and had he lived, I am firmly persuaded, from +subsequent observation and enquiry, that it would in a short period have +opposed to an enemy a formidable resistance, and that it might have been +speedily rescued from that anarchy and confusion which distracted councils, +and want of unanimity had occasioned. + +The colony of Sierra Leone was established by the 31st of George III. +avowedly in opposition to the Slave Trade, and for the purpose of +augmenting more natural commerce, and introducing civilization among the +natives of Africa. The grant is from the 1st of July, 1791, and to continue +for the space of 31 years. During the late war with France, in September +1794, it was nearly destroyed by a French squadron, consisting of one +two-decker, several armed ships and brigs, in the whole about seven or +eight sail; they appeared in the offing on the evening of the 27th, and in +the morning of the 28th at day-light commenced their operations; the result +of which was, that the colony was ravaged by the enemy, and many houses +burnt and destroyed. This squadron was piloted into the river by two +Americans, one of whom was a Captain Neville. The pecuniary loss to the +colony by this attack has been estimated at about 40,000_l_. independant of +buildings destroyed, valued at first cost, about 15,000_l_. more. Bance +Island experienced the same fate, and suffered in pecuniary loss upwards of +20,000_l_. + +In addition to this calamity, the Sierra Leone Company had to lament the +inefficiency of its superintendants, their want of unanimity, and various +other disasters and unforeseen difficulties which operated to augment the +charge in their establishment, and diminish its funds; and with every +deference to the benevolent undertakers, whose motives merit the highest +approbation of every enlightened mind, I would observe, they have likewise +to regret their misconception of the eligible grounds upon which so +beneficent a plan is to be productive of operative influence; but as at a +future stage of my narrative, I shall be enabled from more minute +investigation to enter at large upon this interesting subject, I shall for +the present dismiss it. + +On the 28th of April I embarked on board his Majesty's sloop of war the +Lark, then upon the windward station; having looked into the river for +Governor Day's dispatches, &c.; and I cannot omit this opportunity of +expressing the obligations conferred upon me by Captain Langford, the +commander, and his officers, which invariably continued during my being on +board. At day-light we weighed, and were saluted by one of the forts with +15 guns, which were returned; nothing of moment occurred during our +passage, except being once overtaken with a tornado: this is a hurricane +which prevails upon the windward coast of Africa about this season of the +year, preceding the rainy season; and it is impossible to convey by +description an adequate idea of this explosion of the elements. It +announces its approach by a small white cloud scarcely discernible, which +with incredible velocity overspreads the atmosphere, and envelopes the +affrighted mariner in a vortex of lightning, thunder, torrents of rain, &c. +exhibiting nature in one universal uproar. It is necessary when this cloud +appears at sea, to take in all sail instantaneously, and bear away right +before the furious assailant, which soon expends its awful and tremendous +violence, and nature is again hushed into peaceful tranquillity. + +To the southward of Cape Sierra Leone, and in about 8 degrees north +latitude, lie the Islands of Bannana, in a direction from east to west. To +the west of Great Bannana, lie the smaller islands, which are little more +than barren rocks. The soil of the Bannanas is very fertile, and the +climate healthy, from their proximity to the sea, and the refreshing +breezes which it bestows upon them. They take their name from a fruit so +denominated; and are situated in the most eligible position for commerce, +upon the Windward Coast; combining, from their fertility of soil and +situation, great agricultural advantages, and peculiar salubrity of air. At +present the sovereignty of these islands is contended for by two chiefs, of +considerable intelligence and enterprise, named Caulker and Cleveland. +Caulker appears to be the legitimate sovereign; Cleveland's forefathers +having been established by Caulker's as _trade men_, on their account; and +by intermarriage with that family their claims are founded. James +Cleveland, who married king Caulker's sister, first began the war by his +Grummettas, on the Bannanas, attacking Caulker's people on the Plantains, +The result of this violence was, that Charles Caulker was killed in battle; +and his body mangled and cut into pieces, in the most savage and cruel +manner. In 1798, Stephen Caulker, the present chief, commenced war again, +to revenge his brother's death; and the barbarous contest has continued +ever since, marked with ferocious cruelty, and with various success to the +respective claimants. Soon after its renewal, James Cleveland died, and was +succeeded by his nephew, William, who has received his education in +England, and is a chief of no inconsiderable acquirements and talent. +Stephen Caulker has succeeded in obtaining from him the possession of the +Bannanas and Plantains, and at present sways authority over them; still, +however, exposed to the enterprising genius and intrigues of Cleveland. + + + +[Illustration: THE COLONY of SIERRA LEONE A bearing S.W. by E. distant 3 +MILES, and the BANANAS bearing S.W. by W distant 3 leagues. Published Aug 1 +1807 by G & W Nicol] + + + +Were it practicable to reconcile these contentions, and procure these +valuable islands, they would form most eligible auxiliaries and depots to +any establishment which Government might form upon this part of the coast, +and be of the utmost importance; or in the event of their being +unattainable, factories might be established at Kittim and Boom, both under +Caulker's influence and protection. I have had frequent intercourse with +this chief, and I found him of a very superior understanding, and acute +intellect, to the generality of his countrymen; and if his jealousies could +be allayed by the emollients of superior advantage, his intelligence and +co-operation would much facilitate any operations in this quarter. + +On the 10th of April we arrived at Goree Roads, and came to an anchor +nearly opposite to that part of the island of Goree, called the Point de +Nore, and opening Cape Emanuel, which is by much the most eligible position +in the event of tornados, as a ship may always run in safety to sea, +between the island and the main land. + +Goree is a small island, or barren rock, little more than three quarters of +a mile in length, and a few hundred yards in breadth. Its native +inhabitants are of colour, and a spurious progeny from the French; for whom +they still retain a great predilection. The number of what are called +principal inhabitants, does not exceed 50 males, with their families, +dependants, and slaves; which may in the aggregate amount to frequently +between three and four thousand souls. Their principal trade is in slaves, +of whom they annually export about two thousand, with a small proportion of +dead cargo, chiefly procured from Gambia. + +Religion, of any description, is little practised or understood among them; +although it is evident that Christianity has been introduced into the +island, as there are traces of a catholic chapel and a monastery remaining. +Custom here, as in all the maritime countries of Africa, is the governing +principle of all their actions, added to an avaricious thirst for gain, and +the indulgence of sensual gratification. The ceremony of marriage is too +offensive for delicacy even to reflect upon, much less for me to narrate: +it does not attach to the union any sacred obligation, the bond being +broken at the moment of caprice in either party, or predilection in favour +of any other object. As a preliminary to this disgusting ceremony, a "big +dinner," in their phraseology, and a few presents to the lady, first +obtaining her and her parents' consent, is all that is requisite. When the +happy pair are united, the dependants and slaves of the parties, and their +respective connexions, who are assembled round the buildings or huts, send +forth a most savage yell of exclamation, accompanied by their barbarous +music, gesticulations, and clapping of the hands, in unison with their song +of triumph. This dance is continued with unabating vociferation during the +night, and perhaps for a week, or greater length of time, bearing, however, +due reference to the rank and consequence of the connubial pair. + +The following morning the bride issues forth, with solemn pace and slow, in +grand procession, preceded by her most intimate female associate during her +virgin state, reclining upon her shoulder with both hands; who, in +consequence, is considered as the next matrimonial candidate. They are +immediately surrounded by a concourse of attendants, accompanied by music, +dancing, and other wild expressions of joy; and in a body proceed to visit +her circle of acquaintance and friends, who are always expected to +contribute some offering of congratulation. This ceremony is the concluding +one on the part of the bride; while the dancing and music are continued by +the attendants as long as they can procure any thing either to eat or +drink. + + + +[Illustration: ISLAND OF GOREE Published Aug 1 1807 by G & W Nicol] + + + +In a military point of view, in its present condition, the island of Goree +is far from being a place of strength; but in a commercial, it is of +considerable importance; and, therefore, ought to claim the attention of +Government, if it attaches any consequence towards a commerce with the +coast of Africa. In a military character, its batteries and guns are in an +extremely bad condition; and it is completely a position where a piccaroon +privateer could check every supply from the continent, upon which it +depends for fresh provisions and water, and might carry on hostile +operations without the range of its batteries; which, by consequence, +always exposes this garrison to contingencies and casual supply. In a +commercial consideration, I view it as a possession of the greatest moment; +from its contiguity to the French settlement of the Senegal, and to a large +portion of that valuable district, which they claim and influence; from +whence accurate information may be obtained of their operations; and a +check may issue, to maintain our ascendency to leeward; besides a rallying +point for our outward bound ships, to ascertain the enemy's force upon the +coast; the deviation from a direct course to leeward being very +unimportant: moreover, it might be an eligible depot for the trade of that +infinitely valuable river, the Gambia, which, for variety of natural +productions, is perhaps not to be excelled by any other in the world; only +requiring the hand of industry and intelligence to fertilize and unfold. + +The garrison of Goree has seldom more than 150 effective men to defend it, +of the royal African regiment, commanded by Major Lloyd;[1] and this force +is very fluctuating, from sickness and the diseases of the climate; in +general, however, it is tolerably healthy, and its physical department is +superintended by a gentleman (Doctor Heddle) of very considerable +intelligence and ability in his profession. The hospitality of Major Lloyd, +and the officers of his corps, to their countrymen, is distinguished by +liberality; and during my stay in that island, which was upwards of three +weeks, I have to acknowledge their polite attentions. I was the inmate of +Mr. Hamilton, in the commissariat department, whose peculiar friendship and +kind offices have made a most indelible impression upon my mind. + +The view from the roads, some of the buildings near the shore being of +stone, and upon even an elegant and convenient construction, is calculated +to raise expectation upon approaching it, which is considerably +lessened[**Transcriber's note: "lessoned" must be a typesetting error.] +upon a nearer view; the streets being extremely narrow, and the huts of the +natives huddled together without regularity or system. The inhabitants are +governed in their local customs and capacities by a native mayor, and his +advisers; but, of course, under the control of the commandant of the +garrison; and this privilege is a mere matter of form and courtesy, which a +lenient authority permits. + +[Footnote 1: Now Lieutenant Colonel Lloyd.] + + + + +CHAPTER III. + + + + +_An Excursion to the Main Land.--Visit to King Marraboo.--Anecdotes of this +Chief.--Another Excursion, accompanied by Mr. Hamilton.--A shooting Party, +accompanied by Marraboo's Son, Alexander, and other Chiefs.--Reflections +upon Information obtained from them, relative to this Part of the Coast, +and at Goree.--Embark in his Majesty's Sloop of War, the Eugenie, which +convoyed Mr. Mungo Park in the Brig Crescent, to the River Gambia, on his +late Mission to the Interior of Africa.--Observations on that +Subject.--Arrive in Porto Praya Bay, in the Island of St. Jago.--Some +Remarks upon that Island.--Departure from thence to England, and safe +arrival at Portsmouth._ + + +A few days after the arrival of the Lark at the island of Goree, +accompanied by a party of the officers of that ship, I made an excursion +upon the main land: we set out from the ship early in the morning, for +Decar, the capital of a chief or king, named Marraboo: we arrived before he +had moved abroad, and, after going through winding narrow paths or streets, +we were conducted by one of his people to his palace, a wretched hovel, +built with mud, and thatched with bamboo. In our way to this miserable +habitation of royalty, a confused sound of voices issued forth from almost +every hut we passed, which originated from their inhabitants vociferating +their morning orisons to Allah and Mahomet; their religion being an +heterogeneous system of Mahomedanism, associated with superstitious +idolatry, incantations, and charms. + +We found _Marraboo's head men_ and priests assembled before his majesty's +dwelling _to give him service_, and to offer him their morning's +salutation. At length he made his appearance, followed by several of the +officers of the palace, carrying skins of wild beasts, and mats, which upon +enquiry, I found to have composed the royal bed, spread out upon a little +hurdle, erected about a foot and a half high, interwoven with bamboo canes: +my attention was much engaged with this novel sight; and I could not +contemplate the venerable old man, surrounded by his chiefs, without +conceiving I beheld one of the patriarchs of old, in their primaeval state. +After his chiefs had paid their obeisance, I presumed, accompanied by my +friends, to approach the royal presence; when he discovered us among the +group, his countenance underwent an entire change, expressive of reserve +and surprise, exclaiming, "What did I want with Marraboo?" With great +humility I replied, "I be Englishman, come from King George's country, his +brother, to give him service." He replied with quickness, "I be very glad +to see you, what service have you brought?" I was aware of this tax upon my +civility, and replied, that "I make him good service;" which in plain +English was, that I shall make you a good present. He then conversed with +more freedom relative to his country, government, localities, and religion; +I suggested to him that "I understood he was a powerful king, and a great +warrior, had many wives and children, that he ruled over much people, and a +fine country, that I hear he get much head, that he far pass any of his +enemies, and that I be very happy to look so great a king:" or, in other +words, that I understood he was a great general, was very rich, was more +wise than all his contemporary chiefs, and that it gave me much pleasure to +pay my respects to so great a prince: but the former idiom of language is +best adapted to convey meaning to the interpreters of the chiefs of Africa, +in whatever tongue it may be spoken; being that which they use in +translation; and when they are addressed in this phraseology, they convey +their ideas with more perspicuity and literal interpretation. But to return +to the dialogue. + +Marraboo.--"I be very glad to look you for that, I have much trouble all my +life--great deal of war--my son some time since killed in battle." This was +accompanied by such a melancholy expression of countenance, that could not +fail to excite my compassion, I therefore avoided touching more on the +subject of his wars; only observing, "that I hear he be too much for all +his enemies, and that he build great wall that keep his town and people +safe." + +Marraboo.--"The king of Darnel's people cannot pass that--they all be +killed--they come there sometimes, but always go back again." My curiosity +was excited to obtain the history of this _enchanted wall_, which on my +approach to the town, I had discovered to be apparently little more than +three or four feet high, and situated within the verge of their wells of +fresh water, open at several places, and without any defence. + +Upon enquiry, I found that Marraboo had been early in life _fetish man_, or +high priest, to Damel, king of Cayor, a very powerful chief bordering upon +the Senegal, and that he had artfully contrived to gain over to his +interest a number of adherents, who, in process of time, became formidable, +rebelled against their lawful sovereign, and took possession of that part +of the country towards Cape Verd: to strengthen their position, Marraboo +caused a wall to be erected, commencing from the sea shore, and extending +towards the Cape; which, in the estimation of the natives, and in +consequence of his sacerdotal office, incantations, and charms, was +rendered invulnerable: the hypocritical priest well knew the natural +disposition of his countrymen, and the effect his exorcisms would produce +upon their minds; which operated so effectually, that when his army was +beaten by the powerful Damel, they uniformly retired behind their exorcised +heap of stones, which in a moment stopt their enemy's career, and struck +them with such dread, that they immediately retired to their country, +leaving their impotent enemy in quiet possession of his usurped territory; +whom otherwise they might have annihilated with the greatest facility. +Superstition is a delusion very prevalent in Africa; and its powerful +influence upon the human mind is forcibly illustrated by the foregoing +instance. + +When I enquired of Marraboo the nature of his belief in a supreme being, +his observations were confused and perplexed, having no perspicuous +conception of his attributes or perfections, but an indistinct combination +of incomprehensibility; and to sum up the whole, he remarked, "that he pass +all men, and was not born of woman." + +A few days after the abovementioned visit, I made another excursion to the +main land, accompanied by Mr. Hamilton, and one of the principal +inhabitants of Goree, named Martin. We landed at a small native town, +called after the island, Goree Town. When we came on shore, we were +immediately surrounded by natives, who surveyed us with great curiosity and +attention. We had prepared ourselves with fowling-pieces and shooting +equipage, with the view of penetrating into the interior country: in +pursuance of our design, we dispatched a messenger to _Decar_, with a +request that we might be supplied with attendants and horses: our +solicitation was promptly complied with; and Alexander, Marraboo's son, +speedily made his appearance with two horses, attended by several chiefs +and head men. Our cavalcade made a most grotesque exhibition; Mr. Hamilton +and myself being on horseback, followed by Alexander and his attendants on +foot, in their native accoutrements and shooting apparatus. My seat was not +the most easy, neither was my horse very correct in his paces; the saddle +being scarcely long enough to admit me, with a projection behind, intended +as a security from falling backwards: the stirrups were formed of a thin +plate of iron, about three or four inches broad, and so small, that I could +scarcely squeeze my feet into them. In our progress we killed several +birds, of a species unknown in Europe, and of a most beautiful plumage; one +of which, a little larger than the partridge in England, was armed with a +sharp dart or weapon projecting from the pinion, as if designed by nature +to operate as a guard against its enemies. Our associates rendered us every +friendly attention, and evinced great anxiety to contribute to our sport; +and proved themselves skilful and expert marksmen. The country abounded +with a multiplicity of trees and plants, which would no doubt have amply +rewarded the researches of the botanist, and scientific investigator. The +fatigue I had undergone, and the oppressive heat of the sun, so completely +overpowered me, by the time of our return to Goree Town, that I felt myself +attacked by a violent fever; in this situation I was attended with every +tenderness and solicitude by the females; some bringing me a calabash of +milk, others spreading me a mat to repose upon, and all uniting in kind +offices: it is from them alone that man derives his highest happiness in +this life; and in all situations to which he is exposed, they are the +assuasive agents by whom his sorrows are soothed, his sufferings +alleviated, and his griefs subdued; while compassion is their prominent +characteristic, and sympathy a leading principle of their minds. + +The attention of these kind beings, and the affectionate offices of my +friend, operating upon a naturally good constitution, soon enabled me to +overcome the disease, and to return again to Goree. During the remaining +part of my stay there, I was vigilantly employed in procuring every +information relative to this part of the coast, and through the +intelligence of several of the native inhabitants and traders, I am enabled +to submit the following remarks. + +To elucidate, with perspicuity, the deep impression I feel of the +importance of this district of the Windward Coast, in obtaining a facility +of intercourse with the interior, combining such a variety of local +advantage, by which our ascendency may be preserved, and our commercial +relations improved, is an undertaking, the difficulties of which I duly +appreciate; and I am aware that I have to combat many prejudices and +grounds of opposition to the system I conceive to be practicable, to +develope the various stores of wealth with which Africa abounds, and to +improve the intellectual faculties of its native inhabitants. + +That a situation so highly valuable as the Senegal, and its contiguous +auxiliary, the island of Goree, has been so overlooked, is certainly a +subject of great surprise, and deep regret. While visionary and +impracticable efforts have been resorted to penetrate into the interior of +Africa, we have strangely neglected the maritime situations, which abound +with multifarious objects of commerce, and valuable productions, inviting +our interference to extricate them from their dormant state; and the +consideration apparently has been overlooked, that the barbarism of the +natives on the frontiers must first be subdued by enlightened example, +before the path of research can be opened to the interior. + +We have several recent occurrences to lament, where the most enterprising +efforts have failed, through the inherent jealousies of the natives, and +their ferocious character; and, therefore, it is expedient to commence +experiments in the maritime countries, as the most eligible points from +whence operative influence is to make its progress, civilization display +itself among the inhabitants, and a facility of intercourse be attained +with the interior. So long as this powerful barrier remains in its present +condition, it will continue unexplored; and our intercourse with its more +improved tribes must remain obscured, by the forcible opposition of the +frontier; and these immense regions, with their abundant natural resources, +continue unknown to the civilized world. The inhabitants of the sea coast +are always more fierce and savage than those more remote and insular: all +travellers and voyagers, who have visited mankind in their barbarous state, +must substantiate this fact: and the history of nations and states clearly +demonstrates, that the never-failing influence of commerce and agriculture +united, has emanated from the frontiers, and progressively spread their +blessings into the interior countries. View our own now envied greatness, +and the condition in which our forefathers lived, absorbed in idolatry and +ignorance, and it will unquestionably appear, that our exalted state of +being has arisen from the introduction of the civilized arts of life, the +commerce which our local situation has invited to our shores, and our +agricultural industry. + +Within the district now in contemplation, flows the river of _Senegal_, +with its valuable _gum trade_; the _Gambia_, abounding with innumerable +objects of commerce, such as indigo, and a great variety of plants for +staining, of peculiar properties, timber, wax, ivory, &c.; _the Rio Grande, +Rio Noonez, Rio Pongo,_ &c. all greatly productive, and their borders +inhabited by the Jolliffs, the Foollahs, the Susees, the Mandingos, and +other inferior nations, and communicating, as is now generally believed, +with the river Niger, which introduces us to the interior of this great +continent; the whole presenting an animating prospect to the distinguished +enterprise of our country. + +That these advantages should be neglected, is, as I have before said, +subject of deep regret, and are the objects which I would entreat my +countrymen to contemplate, as the most eligible to attain a knowledge of +this important quarter of the globe, and to introduce civilization among +its numerous inhabitants; by which means, our enemies will be excluded from +that emolument and acquirement, which we supinely overlook and abandon to +contingencies. + +The island of Goree lies between the French settlement of the Senegal and +the river Gambia, and therefore is a very appropriate local station to aid +in forming a general system of operation from Cape Verd to Cape Palmas, +subject to one administration and control. The administrative authority, I +would recommend to be established in the river of Sierra Leone, as a +central situation, from whence evolution is to proceed with requisite +facility, and a ready intercourse be maintained throughout the whole of the +Windward Coast; and as intermediate situations, I would propose the rivers +Gambia, Rio Noonez, Rio Pongo, and Isles de Loss, to the northward; and to +the southward, the Bannana Islands, the Galinhas, Bassau, John's River, &c. +to Cape Palmas; or such of them as would be found, upon investigation, best +calculated to promote the resources of this extensive coast. + +The supreme jurisdiction in the river Sierra Leone, with auxiliaries +established to influence the trade of the foregoing rivers, form the +outlines of my plan, to be supported by an adequate military force, and +organized upon principles which I have hereafter to explain in the course +of my narrative. + +Having an opportunity to sail for England, in his Majesty's sloop of war +the Eugenie, commanded by Charles Webb, Esq. as it was uncertain at what +time the Lark was to proceed, I availed myself of that officer's kind +permission to embark, accompanied by surgeon Thomas Burrowes and his lady. + +The Eugenie had been dispatched for England to convoy the Crescent +transport brig, with Mr. Mungo Park on board, to the river Gambia, upon his +late mission to the interior of Africa. Captain Webb did not conceive it +prudent, nor indeed was it expedient, to proceed higher up the river than +Jillifree, and dispatched the Crescent as far as Kaya, about 150 miles from +the capes of the river, where Mr. Park landed with his associates, viz. his +surgeon, botanist, draftsman, and about 40 soldiers, commanded by an +officer obtained from the royal African corps at Goree, by the order of +Government. + +Nothing could have been more injudicious than attempting this ardoous +undertaking, with any force assuming a military appearance. The natives of +Africa are extremely jealous of white men, savage and ferocious in their +manners, and in the utmost degree tenacious of any encroachment upon their +country. This unhappy mistake may deprive the world of the researches of +this intelligent and persevering traveller, who certainly merits the esteem +of his country, and who, it is to be feared, may fall a victim to a +misconceived plan, and mistaken procedure. + + + +[Illustration: PORTO PRAYA, ISLAND OF ST JAGO Published Aug 1 1807 by G & W +Nicol] + + + +Although anxious to embark, yet I could not take my departure without +sensibly feeling and expressing my sense of obligation for the many +attentions I had to acknowledge from the officers of the garrison, and also +to several of the native inhabitants, among whom were Peppin, Martin, St. +John, and others; the latter, I am sorry to say, was in a bad state of +health; I am much indebted to him for his judicious remarks, and very +intelligent observations. This native received his education in France, and +has acquired a very superior intelligence relative to the present condition +of his country. + +Accompanied by Mr. Hamilton, my hospitable and friendly host, and several +of the officers of the Lark, I embarked on board the Eugenie, on the 31st +of May, and arrived in Porto Praya Bay on the 3d of June. + +The town of Porto Praya is situated upon a plain, forming a height from the +sea, level with the fort, and is a most wretched place, with a very weak +and vulnerable fortification. In the roads there is good anchorage for +shipping, opposite to Quail island, and for smaller vessels nearer the +shore. It has a governmenthouse, a catholic chapel, a market place, and +jail, built with stone; and is now the residence of the government of the +island of St. Jago, subject to the crown of Portugul. Formerly the +governor's place of abode was at the town of St. Jago, upon the opposite +side of the island: his title is that of governor-general of the islands, +comprehending Mayo, Fogo, &c. + +Mayo is remarkable for its salt, which is cast on shore by the rollers or +heavy seas, which at certain periods prevail, and run uncommonly high. The +heat of the sun operating upon the saline particles, produces the salt, +which the inhabitants collect in heaps for sale. We anchored at Mayo for +some hours, and a number of vessels were lying in the roads, chiefly +Americans, taking in this article; it is a very rocky and dangerous +anchorage; we, however, found the traders were willing to undergo the +risque, from the cheapness of the commodity they were in quest of. + +It is a most sorry place, with scarce a vestige of vegetation upon its +surface, and its inhabitants apparently live in the greatest misery. They +are governed by a black man, subject to the administration of St. Jago. + +The military force of St. Jago is by no means either formidable in numbers +or discipline, and exhibits a most complete picture of despicable +wretchedness. + +A black officer, of the name of Vincent, conducted as to the governor, who +received us with politeness, and gave us an invitation to dinner. The town +and garrison were quite in a state of activity and bustle; an officer of +high rank and long residence among them had just paid the debt of nature, +and his body was laid in state in the chapel, in all his paraphernalia. The +greater part of the monks from the monastery of St. Jago were assembled +upon the occasion, to sing requiems for his soul; and the scene was truly +solemn and impressive. We met these ministers of religion at dinner, but +how changed from that gravity of demeanor which distinguished them in +their acts of external worship. The governor's excellent Madeira was taken +in the most genuine spirit of devotion, accompanied by fervent exclamations +upon its excellent qualities. Upon perceiving this holy fervency in the +pious fraternity, we plied them closely, and frequently joined them in +flowing bumpers, until their ardour began to sink into brutal stupidity, +and the morning's hymns were changed into revelry and bacchanalian roar. + + + +[Illustration: POGO, bearing N. by W. distance about 4 leagues from B +Published Aug 1 1807 by G & W Nicol] + + + + +[Illustration: 3 ISLAND of ST. IAGO, distance 6 Miles. 4. PAPS of CAPE +VERDE, bearing at C, _N.N.E._ and at D, _S.E._ by _S._ distance 3 leagues. +Published Aug 1 1807 by G & W Nicol] + + + +This, however, was rather a tax upon the governor's hospitality, as it +deprived him of his _Ciesta_, a common practice with him, almost +immediately after the cloth is withdrawn. When we came ashore the next +morning, we were highly entertained with the anecdotes related to us of the +pranks performed during the night by the convivial priests, many of whom +were unable to fulfil the duties of the altar at the usual hour of prayer. + +The natives of St. Jago, with those of the neighbouring islands, are mostly +black, or of a mixed colour, very encroaching in their manners, and much +addicted to knavery. The island is extremely rocky and uneven, but the +vallies are fertile. The inhabitants raise cotton, and they have several +sugar works; the quantity they raise of both, does not, however, much +exceed their own consumption, but there is no doubt that it might be +considerably augmented by industry, even for exportation; but the natives +are indolent, and extremely listless in their habits. The only inducement +in touching at this island is, to procure water and provisions: the former +is good, and the latter consists in hogs, turkeys, ducks, poultry, &c. but +frequently, after they have been visited by a fleet, a great scarcity +prevails. + +The commodities the natives require as payment may be purchased at Rag +Fair, being extremely partial to cast off wearing apparel of every +description. + +The men are extremely slovenly in their dress; but the women are rather +more correct and uniform, those of the better condition being habited in +muslin, and their hair ornamented, and neatly plaited. + +They manufacture a narrow cloth of silk and cotton, which is in high +estimation among them, and its exportation is prohibited, except to +Portugal. Considerable ingenuity is displayed in this manufacture, which is +performed in a loom, differing very little from that used by the ruder +inhabitants of the coast of Africa, and similar to the garter loom in +England. They have horses and mules well adapted to their roads and rugged +paths, which they ride most furiously, particularly the military, who +advance at full speed to a stone wall, or the side of a house, merely to +shew their dexterity in halting. + +After being detained here for several days in taking in stock and +provisions, we again weighed with the Crescent brig, and a sloop from +Gambia, bound to London, under our convoy, and after a tedious and very +anxious passage, arrived at Portsmouth on the 4th of August. We were +detained under quarantine until the return of post from London, and +proceeded on shore the following day. There is something in _natale solum_ +which charms the soul after a period of absence, and operates so +powerfully, as to fill it with indescribable sensations and delight. Every +object and scene appeals so forcibly to the senses, enraptures the eye, and +so sweetly attunes the mind, as to place this feeling among even the +extacies of our nature, and; the most refined we are capable of enjoying. + +It is this love of his country which stimulates man to the noblest deeds; +and, leaving all other considerations, only obedient to its call, separates +him from his most tender connections, and makes him risque his life in its +defence. + + +"Where'er we roam, whatever realms to see, +Our hearts untravell'd fondly turn to thee; +Still to our country turn, with ceaseless pain, +And drag, at each remove, a lengthening chain." + GOLDSMITH. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + + + + +_The Author proceeds to London.--Re-embarks for Africa.--Arrives at +Madeira.--Observations on that Island.--Prosecution of the Voyage, and +Arrival in the Sierra Leone River, &c._ + + +Our happy arrival was celebrated at the Crown inn, where Captain Webb and +his first Lieutenant (Younger) joined us; we dined together, and separated +with mutual kind wishes. The next morning Mr. Burrowes and myself proceeded +to London, and were once more rapidly conducted into its busy scene. + +Without even time to greet my friends, I again left town for Portsmouth, to +commit myself to the watery element, and revisit the shores. I had so +recently left; and on the 22d of September sailed, in the ship Andersons, +from St. Helen's, under convoy of the Arab post sloop of war, commanded by +Keith Maxwell, Esq. and the Favorite sloop of war, by John Davie, Esq. + +We anchored in Funchal Roads, island of Madeira, on Saturday the lath of +October, without experiencing any remarkable event. + +When approaching the island of Madeira, it exhibits to the eye a strikingly +beautiful and picturesque view. The uneven surface of the hills, covered +with plantations of vines, and various kinds of herbage, with the exception +of partial spots burnt up by the heat of the sun in the dry season, +displays a singular perspective, which, with the beautiful appearance of +the interspersed villas, churches, and monasteries, form an arrangement +both exquisite and delightful. + +After being visited by the boat of health, our party proceeded on shore in +the evening; and upon being made known to the house of Messrs. Murdoch, +Masterton, and Co. were politely invited to breakfast the ensuing morning. + +At our appearance, in conformity with our appointment, we were introduced +into the breakfast parlour by Mr. Wardrope, one of the acting partners, to +his lady and sister, who received us with engaging civilities and +attention. + +After our friendly meal, we perambulated the town of Funchal, and attended +chapel, which so far from being a house of devotion, presented to our +contemplation a rendezvous for intrigue and the retirement of a +conversazione. + +Funchiale or Funchal, takes its derivation from Funcho, signifying in the +Portuguese language, Fennel; it is situated at the bottom of a bay, and may +be considered disproportionate to the island, in extent and appearance, as +it is ill built, and the streets remarkably narrow and ill paved. The +churches are decorated with ornaments, and pictures of images and saints, +most wretchedly executed: I understand, however, that a much better taste +is displayed in the convents, more especially that of the Franciscans, in +which is a small chapel, exhibiting the disgusting view of human skulls and +thigh bones lining its walls. The thigh bones form a cross, and the skulls +are placed in each of the four angles. + +Nature has been very bountiful in her favours to Madeira; its soil is rich +and various, and its climate is salubrious and versatile; it abounds in +natural productions, and only requires the fostering hand of the husbandman +to produce every necessary, and almost luxury, of life. Walnuts, chesnuts, +and apples, flourish in the hills, almost spontaneously, and guanas, +mangoes, and bananas, in wild exuberance. At the country residence of James +Gordon, Esq. where we dined, and met with the most distinguished +hospitality, I saw a most surprising instance of rapid growth; a shoot of +the tree, called the Limbriera Royal, started up, perpendicularly from the +trunk, to a height of nearly _thirty feet_, from the month of January to +that of October: it is, however, to be observed, that the branches were +lopped off, and it is supposed the juices of the trunk communicated to this +stem. + +Corn of a very good quality grows in this island, and might be produced in +plenty, but the inhabitants, whose characteristic is idleness, neglect its +culture, and thereby subject themselves to the necessity of relying upon +foreign imports. Their beef, mutton, and pork, are remarkably good, and +they have game in the mountains. + +By order of the late governor, in 1800, the population was taken from the +confessional returns, and, as he was himself a bishop, it may be inferred +that the number stated below, which I procured from official authority, is +accurate, viz. + + + + Number confessed, 95,000 + And, calculating 1 in 10 for children under 5 + years of age, the first period of their confession, + is equal to 3,500 + -------- + Making in the aggregate the number of souls to be 104,500 + -------- + + + +15,000 of whom were computed to be inhabitants of the town of Funchal. + +The government consists of a governor, appointed by the crown of Portugal, +the island being in its possession, styled governor of the islands, and: is +perfectly arbitrary; Funchal is his residence; he has a council under him +consisting of 24 members, whose president is the second judge for the time +being. All officers are nominated by the crown, and the holders continue +only for three years, at the end of which new nominations take place. + +The only article of trade is wine, of which they export about 12,000 pipes +annually, and consume from 6 to 8,000 pipes in the island, comprehending +_small wine_, &c. being in the whole about 20,000 pipes. It is made by +pressing out the juice from the grape in a wooden vessel, proportioned in +size to the quantity they intend to make. The wine-pressers take off their +jackets and stockings, get into the vessel, and with their elbows and feet +press as much of the juice as is practicable by this operation; the stalks +are then tied together and pressed, under a square piece of wood, by a +lever with a stone fastened to the end of it; the wine is brought from the +country in goat skins, by men and women on their heads. + +The roads are so steep and roughly paved, that neither carriages nor carts +are in use, the substitute is a palanquin for the former, and for the +latter a hollow log of wood, drawn by oxen, upon which the wine vessels or +other loads are placed; they, however, have horses and mules very well +adapted to their roads. + +The revenue to the crown of Portugal is estimated from 20 to 30,000_l_. +annually, clear of all expenses; but the balance of trade is greatly +against them, all their specie being drawn to Lisbon. + +The currency of the island is Spanish, and consists of dollars, converted +by their laws, into milreas of 5_s_. 6_d_. pistareens, value about is. +bits, about 6_d_. and half bits, about 3_d_. + +It is disadvantageous to take up money at Madeira upon bills, as they make +payment in dollars, which they value at a milrea. Sometimes they may, from +particular circumstances, give a premium, but it is seldom equal to the +discount. + +On the morning of the 18th I bad my grateful adieu to Madeira, and the +friendly roof of Mr. Wardrope and his united family, the abode of conjugal +affection, friendship, and hospitable reception; and at 2 P.M. went on +board. We weighed anchor under the protection of the Favorite, the Arab +continuing at her moorings. Passing between the grand Canary and close in +with Teneriffe, we arrived safe at the island of Goree, on the 5th of +November, without our commodore, under convoy of the Favorite. The ship +Andersons having freight to deliver at that island, we continued there +until the 12th, and again resumed our voyage; arriving, without accident; +at Bance Island, which I have previously noticed, on the 22d of the same +month. + +My residence was confined to this island, and in excursions through the +neighbouring countries, until the 4th June, 1806, during which period, and +from a general intercourse with an extended circle of chiefs, natives, and +traders, I have been enabled to decide upon the situation of this country, +and to form a conclusive opinion of the condition and character of its +inhabitants, and its commercial resources. + +From these sources of intelligence, and the example this island displayed, +with observations upon the conduct and management of the Sierra Leone +company, I first conceived the system that I shall hereafter delineate, +upon which the African's condition may be effectually improved, and his +hereditary slavery exterminated. + + + +[Illustration: BANCE ISLAND, in the RIVER SIERRA LEONE. _The Property of +John & Alexander Anderson Esq. London._] + + + +The natives of Africa resident upon the coast, are uniformly considered as +more ferocious and barbarous in their customs and manners, less numerous in +population, and more encroaching and deceitful, than those of the interior. +While this formidable opposition exists, and the baneful influence of +barbarous habits continues, it is in vain to look to remuneration by +natural commerce, or to the establishment of civilization. The African's +barbarity must be first here assailed, and the infinite resources upon the +coasts and maritime rivers must be developed to his view, to pre-dispose +him to refine his condition, and adopt the civilized habits of life; nor is +there any site which I have met with upon the Windward Coast of Africa, +more calculated to promote this beneficent undertaking, than the island of +Bance, from its locality of situation, being central to windward and +leeward operation, commanding an extensive circle of interior country, and +being long established in the estimation of the natives of an extended +district. But more of this subject in order. + + + +CHAPTER V. + + + + +_Observations upon the natural Productions of the River Sierra Leone.--The +Author explores its Branches, interior to Bance Island, the Rochelle, and +the Port Logo.--The Manners and Customs of the Inhabitants.--Their +Commerce.--The Author's safe Arrival at Miffare._ + + +The river of Sierra Leone abounds in fish, and the spermaceti whale has +been occasionally found, the shark, the porpoise, eels, mackarel, mullet, +snappers, yellow tails, cavillos, tenpounders, &c. with the _mannittee_, a +singular mass of shapeless flesh, having much the taste of beef, which the +natives greatly esteem, and consider the highest offering they can make. + +Oysters are found in great abundance, attached to the interwoven twigs and +branches of the mangrove tree, to which they closely cling; and of the +zoophytes, there is the common sponge to be found upon the sandy beaches, +on the Boolum shore, and would, no doubt, bring a high price in England. + +The domestic animals of the adjoining countries are, cattle, sheep, goats, +hogs, ducks, turkeys, and fowls, very inferior, however, to those in +Europe. The beasts of prey are, lions, leopards, hyaenas, wild hogs in +abundance, squirrels, monkies, antelopes, &c. with the civet and zibeth +cats, and a most extraordinary animal, which is found in the mountains of +Sierra Leone and the adjacent countries, a species of the ourang outang, +called by the natives, japanzee, or chimpanzee, but approaching nearer to +the anatomy of the human frame than the former animal. Some of them, when +full grown, are nearly 5 feet, and are covered with black hair, long on the +back, but thin and short upon the belly and breast; the face is quite bare, +and the hands and feet resemble those of man; its countenance is remarkably +grave, similar to that of an old black man, but its ears are straight; it +will imitate a human being in walking, sleeping, eating, and drinking, and +is certainly a most singular production of nature. Surgeon Burrowes, whom I +have before mentioned, had a perfect skeleton of this animal, which, he +assured me, differed in nothing from the human, but in the spine, it being +curved. This skeleton, I believe, now forms a part of the collection of +Surgeon-General Keate. + +There are, of amphibious animals, green turtles, hawk's bills, and +loggerheads, which grow to a great size, some of them weighing several +hundred pounds, land turtles, fresh water turtles, alligators, extremely +voracious, and from 12 to 15 feet in length; they will swallow a man, and +at Bance Island Negro boys have been frequently snatched up by them from +the shore. There are also a variety of the lizard species, with the guava, +and camelion. + +Snakes abound; some of them haunt the houses in the night, and prowl about +for poultry, of which they are fond; some have been found to measure above +18 feet; and I have the skin of one in my possession, killed when young, +above 10 feet in length; it is that species which swallows its prey entire; +several animals were found in their perfect state when the one I allude to +was cut open. + +There is also an immense animal of this species, which I have heard the +natives of this part of the coast describe, often exceeding 30 feet in +length, and of an enormous size; it is variegated with spots, and the head +is covered with scales; the tongue is fleshy and forked, but its bite is +not poisonous; it is to be found in the recesses of caves and thickets, +from whence it suddenly darts upon its victim, whether man or beast: it +frequently chooses a tree, from which it reconnoitres the passing objects, +supporting itself by the tail, which it twists round the trunk or branches: +when it seizes animals, especially those of the larger kind, such as lions, +tigers, &c. it dexterously, and almost instantaneously twists itself round +their bodies in several folds, and by its powerful muscular force, breaks +the bones, and bruises it in all its parts; when this is done it covers the +animal with a viscous cohesive saliva, by licking its body with its tongue, +which facilitates the power of swallowing it entire; this process is +tedious, and it gradually sucks in the body, which, if large, renders it +incapable of moving for some time, until it digests; and this is the period +which the hunters watch to destroy it: it makes a hissing noise like a +serpent, and has recourse to a variety of expedients to conceal itself; it +is called by the natives _Tinnui_, and is what I apprehend naturalists term +the species of _Boa constrictor_: it is most commonly found in the sultry +climates of Africa, and I believe is also an inhabitant of Asia and +America. + +Insects are extremely numerous, of a nondescript species, and exceedingly +beautiful: the most singular are termites, destructive to houses and fences +built of wood; ants, causing ruin to provisions; cockroaches and crickets, +destroying leather, linen, and clothes; musquitos, sand-flies, centipedes, +scorpions; and wild bees, which are very productive of honey. The vermis +and large barnacles abound, which are so destructive to shipping without +copper bottoms. + +Esculent vegetables are various: Rice, which forms the chief part of the +African's sustenance. The rice-fields or _lugars_ are prepared during the +dry season, and the seed is sown in the tornado season, requiring about +four or five months growth to bring it to perfection. + +Yams, a nutritious substance, known in the West Indies. + +_Cassada_ or _cassava_, a root, of a pleasant taste when roasted or boiled, +and makes an excellent cake, superior in whiteness to flour. + +Papaw, of a deep green in its growth, but yellqw when ripe, and is an +excellent dish when boiled; its leaves are frequently used by the natives +for soap; ropes are made of the bark. + +Oranges and limes are in great abundance, and of superior quality, +throughout the year; but lemons degenerate much in their growth, and in a +few years are scarcely to be distinguished from the latter. Guavas, +pumpkins, or pumpions, squash water mellons, musk mellons, and cucumbers, +grow in the greatest perfection. The pumpkins grow in wild exuberance +throughout the year, and make a good pudding or pie. + +Indian corn, or maize, may be reaped several times throughout the year, +only requiring about three months growth. + +Millet, with a multiplicity too tedious to enumerate. + +Sugar canes are not very abundant, but are of a good quality, which, under +careful management and industry, would, no doubt, yield productive returns. + +Coffee trees, of different nondescript species, only requiring the same +interference. + +Dyes, of infinite variety and superior texture: yellow is procured from the +butter and tallow tree, producing a juice resembling gamboge, but more +cohesive, and of a darker colour; the wood of this tree is firm, and +adapted to a variety of purposes; its fruit is about the size of a tennis +ball, nearly oval, thick in the rind, and of a pleasant acid taste, +containing several seeds about the size of a walnut, and yielding a viscous +substance used by the natives in their food. Red and black are procured +from a variety of other trees and plants; and indigo growing in wild +exuberance, particularly in the rivers more to the northward. + +Cotton, in great varieties, requiring only cultivation to raise it to +perfection and amount. The natives manufacture from it a narrow cloth, +which is made from thread, spun in a manner similar to the distaff. + +A species of silk cotton, or ether down, is produced on a large tree, +called the pullam tree. The quantity which the usual size bears may be +computed at about 4 cwt. in pods of 6 to 9 inches long, 4-1/2 in +circumference, and about 1-1/2 inch in diameter, which, upon being exposed +to the heat of the sun, is distended to an incredible bulk. It is much +superior to down for the couch, and, from its elasticity, might be of great +utility in the manufacture of hats. This tree is in great estimation among +the Africans, and is frequently regarded by them as their _Fetish_. Every +town almost has a tree of this species towering over its huts, which its +chief tells the traveller with exultation he or his father planted. + +Tobacco is uncertain, but I entertain very little doubt that it might be +raised upon the more luxuriant soils. + +Pepper, more particularly near Cape Mount, of several sorts, Maboobo, +Massaaba, Massa, Amquona, Tosan, &c.; the three first are of a weaker +flavour, and are oblong and angular in their seeds; but the last excels in +pungency, and is the native Malaguetta pepper of Africa. + +The bread-fruit tree, is similar in appearance to the apple tree, and grows +in the low sandy situations of the Boolum shore, producing a fruit +exceedingly nutritious, and larger than an apple. + +Tamarinds in great variety and plenty: the velvet tamarind abounds in the +Bananas, also the white and brown; but the latter are most in esteem, and +are very fine. + +Okras, the fruit of a small tree, resembling the English mallows, which put +into soup gives it a gelatine quality, highly alimental; the leaves make a +good spinage. + +The palm tree, producing the oil so denominated, is one of the most useful +trees to the African, yielding him meat, drink, and raiment. Where it +grows, it is an indication of a good soil. It is remarkably tall, without +branches, having regular and gradual protuberances, from the bottom towards +the top, ending in five or six clusters of nuts, shaded by large deciduous +leaves. The nuts, which are about the size of a hazle nut, have a hard +kernel, encompassed by a clammy unctuous substance, covered by a thin skin, +and the oil is produced from them by being exposed to the sun, which, by +its influence, opens the juices; subsequent to this exposure, the nuts are +put into a boiler full of water, and a liquid, in the process of boiling, +flows upon the top, which when skimmed off, soon hardens and turns rancid; +the kernel of the nut, after this process, is taken out of the boiler, beat +in a paloon, and put into clear water, the shell of the nut sinks, and its +contents float upon the surface, which, when skimmed as before, is finally +put into a pot, fried, and carefully poured off, producing another kind of +oil, used as butter, and having in a great degree its quality. + +The wine is extracted from the tree by forming an incision at the bottom of +every cluster of nuts, from each of which flows about a gallon of wine per +day, for a week, when they are closed until the ensuing season. The liquid, +when newly taken from the tree, resembles whey, and in that state has a +sweetish agreeable taste, but it soon ferments and grows sour, changing to +a strong vinegar of a disagreeable smell: in its fermented state it is most +esteemed by the natives, and is productive of inebriety. + +A substance overtops the clusters about 10 or 12 inches in diameter, and 3 +or 4 feet in height, in a full grown tree, from whence proceeds a stalk, +about 4 inches in length, which, on being boiled in water, makes an +excellent vegetable resembling cabbage, or rather, in taste, the +cauliflower; the leaves of the tree are converted by the natives into +baskets, fishing nets, and cloth. + +MEDICINAL PLANTS. _Colla_ is highly esteemed by the natives, and they +attribute to it the virtues of Peruvian bark; the Portuguese, ascribe the +same quality to it, and dispatch from their factories small vessels to +collect all they can procure. + +_Castor Oil Rhinum_.-The bush which produces the bud from which this oil +and valuable medicine is extracted, grows in great exuberance upon the +Windward Coast, and its vicinity. A species of bark is in great abundance +also, and is said to be equal in virtue to the Peruvian. + +The foregoing enumeration of natural productions, is the result of +unscientific enquiry only; but unquestionably, industrious and professional +research, would discover infinitely more to philosophic and commercial +contemplation, and develope the arcana of nature, dormant here through +ignorance and barbarism. + +On the 10th of May, I set out from Bance Island, with the view of exploring +the two branches of the Sierra Leone river, the Rochelle, and the Port +Logo. After rowing a few hours I arrived at the factory of Miffare, +formerly occupied by a Mr. Berauld, a Frenchman, but now attached to Bance +Island. + +Mr. Hodgkin, with his people, then in possession of the factory, +accompanied me up the Port Logo branch the following morning, taking a +number of towns in our way, and visiting the chiefs. The course of this +branch of the river is extremely serpentine, and is navigable for light +vessels to a little way from the town of Port Logo which is now the +residence of Alimami, a Mandingo chief, who assumes the title of emperor. +The banks are overgrown with the mangrove tree, interwoven together, so as +to form an almost impenetrable thicket, excluding the air, which, with the +extreme heat of the sun, and the noxious insects which are extracted by its +rays from the swamps and woods, renders this navigation intolerably +oppressive. The chief part of its trade is in slaves, camwood, and ivory, +the latter, however, being small, although Port Logo commands a very +extensive back country. When we came near the town of Port Logo, which is +extremely difficult of approach at low water, we announced our visit by +saluting in the manner of this country, which is what they call bush +firing, or in other words is a continued irregular firing of musquetry. + +It was soon discovered who we were, and crowds of natives flocked down from +the upper town, which is situated on the declivity of a hill, to give us +service, or to pay their respects. Our first visit was to _Marriba_, one of +Alimami's head men, and a resident of what they consider the lower town. + +Upon our arrival at Marriba's house, we found him at his devotions in the +palaver-house, a shed under which the natives daily assemble to pray, or +discuss public affairs. He received us with every demonstration of regard, +and immediately offered his services to conduct us to Alimami. The old +chief preceded us, with his long gold-headed cane, and our rear was brought +up by a number of armed men, who had assembled to give us a favourable +reception. Our salute had pleased Alimami, and being before known to him, +he was determined to shew us every respect. The heat of the sun was almost +intolerable, and before we arrived at the top of the hill where the +imperial palace stood, I was nearly exhausted. The entrance to this large +square of irregular mud buildings, is through a narrow passage or gate, +forming an oblong square of mud, covered with thatch, and facing Alimami's +house: we were ushered through this by one of his head men, and proceeded +in the order we set out to Alimami, who was seated at the top of the +square, surrounded by his chiefs, upon a mat spread upon a raised bank of +mud, dressed in a turban, after the Turkish fashion, and a loose manding, +robe, or shirt. + +Several pleaders were haranguing two of his judges, who were seated at a +distance, in palaver, or council, to take cognizance of a dispute relative +to some slaves; and although our arrival had excited the-curiosity of every +inhabitant of the town, yet we passed the tribunal without interruption, +their attention being absorbed on the subject of their sitting. The whole +compass of the square was scarcely equal to contain their oratory, their +voices being so extremely loud as to be heard distinctly, without the +walls, accompanied by menacing attitudes. Passing this declamatory +assembly, we paid our obeisance to Alimami, who was graciously pleased to +receive us in the manner of his country, with great civilities, and +immediately spread mats for us with his own hands, near himself. It was +impossible, although accustomed to these people, to contemplate the +surrounding objects without interest. I had previously been acquainted with +this chief at Bance Island, where he was in a high degree restrained by +European manners; but here, every thing was native and original. All came +to give us service, which is performed as I have mentioned. A goat and a +couple of fowls were next presented for our dinners, for which an offering +more valuable was expected, and of course complied with. This mutual +interchange of civilities being fulfilled, our attention was excited by the +orators, who by this time were extremely clamorous; one of them, with an +aspect the most furious, ran up to where I was seated, and addressing +Alimami, said, "that as proof his palaver be good, white man come to give +him service while he address him on the subject of his demand;" attaching +to that circumstance, the superstitious idea that he was right, and that I +was his _fetish_ to establish that right. + +I then enquired of Alimami the nature of the trial; he replied, "these men +tell their story, I appoint two judges to hear them, who are to report to +me what they say, and their opinions of the matter, but I hear all that +already and they cannot tell me wrong: I then give judgment," Or in other +words more expressive of his meaning; these men make their complaint to my +head men, or the judges I have appointed to hear it; it is their business +to make me a true report, and give me their opinion on the merits of the +case; and although I am not now supposed to hear it, yet I am so situated +as to hear the whole, and can thereby check any corrupt practices in the +judges. + +I had now leisure to examine the interior of Alimami's residence; it +consisted of a square of irregular buildings, thatched with bamboo, and +covered with roofs, supported by pillars of wood, at about 6 feet distance, +projecting about the same number of feet beyond the skeleton of the fabric, +and forming a kind of palisado, which serves as a shade for retirement from +the heat of the sun, and under which, the inhabitants indulge in repose, or +sit in familiar intercourse. + +During my conversation with Alimami, his brother, a fat jolly fellow, was +reposing himself upon his mat, reading his Arabic prayer book, which, upon +examination, I found executed in a neat character, and from his +interpretation, was a record of fabulous anecdotes of his family, and +containing confused extracts from the Koran. + +The Mandingos are professed Mahomedans, whose influence is spreading with +so much rapidity on this part of the coast, that several of the other +tribes have submitted to their authority; so strong an impression has their +superior attainments and book-knowledge imprinted on their minds. In no +instance can their growing influence appear more conspicuous than in that +of Alimami being vested with authority over the Port Logo, of which he is +not a native, and over a people originally infidels. Formerly this tribe of +Mandingos were itinerant _fetish_ makers and priests, but now they are +numerous to the northward of Sierra Leone, from whence a wide district +receives their rulers and chieftains. + +After an audience of considerable length, Alimami retired with several of +his chiefs, and soon after I had a message that he wished to see me in +another part of his dwelling. I had previously noticed to him that I +intended shortly to embark for my country. When conducted to his presence, +he very emphatically enquired "if what I tell him be true?" I replied "it +was; but that I go to do him and his countrymen good; that he know this was +the second time I look them, but never forget them." "We all know that," he +replied, "but white man that come among us, never stay long time; you be +good man, and we wish you live among us--How many moon you be gone from +us?"--"About ten moon; how would you like to go with me, Alimami?"--"I +like that much, but black man not be head enough to do what white man +does;" and putting his hand to his bosom, he took from it a piece of gold +in the form of a heart; and said, "take that for me." To have refused it +would have been an insult; I therefore accepted it; adding, "that I would +tie it to fine riband, and wear it when I look my country, to let +Englishmen see what fine present he make me." He was quite pleased with the +idea, and expressed his satisfaction with great fervency. + +Soon after, I offered to take my leave, and was accompanied by him and his +chiefs to the gate, where I bade him adieu, and passed through the town, +paying my respects to its inhabitants, and among others, to the +schoolmaster, whose venerable appearance, and superior intelligence, +excited my respect and esteem. + +Upon our return to Marriba's house, we were happy to partake of a country +mess of rice, boiled with fowls, palm oil, and other compounds. The chief +could not be prevailed to eat with us, but attended us with great assiduity +during our meal. The imperial guard accompanied us to our canoe, and we +returned to Miffare without accident. + +The following morning we proceeded to the branch of the Rochell, which we +found more diversified and picturesque than the Port Logo, and its borders +better inhabited. + +Proceeding up this branch, and visiting the chiefs in our way, and the +inhabitants of a number of villages, we arrived at Billy Manshu's Town, a +little chief of very considerable intelligence, and who treated us with +great hospitality: here we slept. + +We arose early, and pursued our course up the branch, passing one of the +most regular built towns I have observed in Africa, now Morrey Samba's, but +formerly Morrey Bunda's Town. Morrey Bunda was originally a Manding, and +_fetish_ maker to Smart, the chief who commands an extensive country on +that side of the Rochell branch towards the Sherbro, and rose into notice +and influence: he is now dead. The town is surrounded by a mud wall, and at +the entrance, and upon each angle of the oblong square which encloses it, +there are towers erected for the purposes of defence. The wall, with the +towers, completely obscures the buildings which form the town, and serve as +a guard against any depredations of enemies, while it shelters the +inhabitants from the effects of their arrows or musquetry. Morrey Bunda has +displayed in his plans of fortifications, considerable ingenuity, +considering the circumstances he had to provide against, and the predatory +nature of African wars, which are uniformly to surprise the inhabitants of +a village or town while asleep, or in any other unguarded state, seldom or +ever coming to a general engagement in the open country, but acting under +the protection of some ambush, or other place of security, which, while it +is calculated to conceal their numbers, serves as a retreat from their +successful opponents. + +Leaving Morrey Samba's we passed by a number of other villages, until we +arrived at one of Smart's trading towns, called Mahera, situated upon an +eminence, and commanding a most delightful prospect of the meandering +course of the river, interspersed with islands, displaying a great +diversity of appearance. + +Smart has very wisely chosen this spot, as it is not only a charming +situation, healthy, and delightful, but well situated to command a very +extensive internal trade in camwood and ivory, besides being contiguous to +the Sherbro, from whence a great portion of the camwood is procured, and +situated on the principal branch of the Sierra Leone. In addition to these +local advantages, he has recently opened a path with the interior, +communicating with the Foolah country, which is entirely under his +influence, and which he can open and shut at pleasure. It would be of +incalculable advantage to any operation to secure the friendship of this +chief: he possesses a very superior mind, and, from his connection with +Bance Island, has acquired a knowledge of European ideas and manners seldom +to be met with among any of the chiefs on this part of the coast. From the +various opportunities I have had to consult Smart on his general sentiments +relative to his country, and the freedom of intercourse I have had with +him, I am well persuaded that he would be a powerful and intelligent +auxiliary in promoting the civilization of his country, upon a liberal +principle, calculated to its condition, and having a tendency to eradicate +its barbarism; but he is one, of many more upon this quarter of the coast, +who have no reliance upon the attempts that have been made, and deplores, +with regret, that through the want of a correct knowledge of the +dispositions of his countrymen, an ignorance of the nature of the evil to +be removed, and the invidious principles which constituted the +establishments that have been formed to promote this beneficent +undertaking, his country is still excluded from the light of truth, and the +refined arts of civilized life. + +From Mahera we proceeded to Rochell, another of Mr. Smart's towns, more +insular, where I expected to have met him, in conformity with an +arrangement previously made, to visit him at his towns, and see, as he +observed, his country fashion. Upon our reaching this point of our +expedition, we were saluted by a numerous assemblage of chiefs and natives, +going to join my friend Smart in one of his wars with his opposite +neighbours and rivals, the Cammarancies, inhabiting the country towards the +Port Logo. The cause of quarrel was, that these people had seized upon the +rafts and canoes which brought the camwood over the falls higher up the +river, and had demolished several storehouses belonging to Smart and his +people, engaged in that trade. Smart, with a part of his forces, had +crossed the river only an hour before, and another division were embarking +to join him at a place of rendezvous upon the enemy's territory, with the +intention of cautiously approaching during the night to some of their +towns, and surprising them before they had arisen from sleep. Nothing could +exceed the novelty of this sight; the chiefs and their followers were armed +with their bows and arrows, and other rude implements of war, and +completely in their native character; in addition to their native weapons, +some had musquets, procured from Europeans in trade, swords, and various +other manufacture, supplied by traders, exhibiting an appearance, of which +no idea can be formed, without a personal knowledge of this barbarous +people. The chiefs, in particular, were covered with _gris-gris_ and +_fetishes_, a mixture of feathers and other preposterous materials, +calculated to obliterate any trace of human appearance, and possessing the +virtue, as they conceived, of shielding them from danger. Solemn _palaver_ +is always held upon these occasions, and their _gris-gris_ makers, _fetish_ +men, and priests, exorcise their absurd decorations, which, in their +estimation, operate as guardian angels in the hour of difficulty and peril. + +Having occasion to visit a gentleman resident at some distance, we left our +canoes at Rochell, and proceeded on foot. _Cabba_, one of the chiefs, +accompanied us with a guard, being apprehensive, as he observed, that "bad +might happen us, as war live in the country." We passed through a +remarkably fertile country, presenting an infinite variety of natural +productions. Our path was frequently lined with pine-apples, in all the +luxuriance of nature; but amidst this animating landscape, we beheld +deserted villages, ravaged by the ferocious hand of man; and all the traces +of barbarous devastation. We fell in with several armed parties, with whom +I conversed upon the subject of the war, which appeared to be of a +predatory nature, and the consequence of insatiate avarice and barbarous +habits. + +At length we arrived, much fatigued, at Mr. Green's (at Massou), with whom +we rested for the night, receiving every kindness and attention in his +power to bestow. I am indebted to this gentleman for a variety of useful +information relative to a wide extent of country. His education and +acquirements are of the first class, and I could not view such a man, +insulated from polished society, which he was qualified to adorn, and shut +up in the wilds of Africa, among barbarians, without a mixture of pain and +surprise; nor did I depart from him without sympathy and regret, after he +had confided to me his motives, and the outlines of his life, which were +marked with eventful incidents, and extraordinary occurrences. + +It was my object to have proceeded from Massou to Rocond, the principal +town of Smart's residence, and from thence to penetrate to the falls of the +river, which, from every information I received, exhibit a sublime scene; +but, on account of the disturbed state of the country, and that chiefs +absence, I was obliged to give up my intention, and return to Rochell, from +whence we rowed down the river to the town of our little hospitable chief, +Billy Manshu; where we stayed the night. The following day we arrived safe +at Miffare; and although Smart had given orders at Mahera to stop all +canoes, we were suffered to pass; the chiefs observing, "that they knew we +would not tell their enemies, when we came among them, what we saw them +do." Had we been strangers, it is more than probable we should have fallen +victims to the fury of these barbarians, who, in the towns we passed, were +excited to a savage fierceness, highly descriptive of the natural ferocity +of the African character. + +At Miffare, formerly occupied by Monsieur Berauld, as previously noticed, +who had lately paid the common debt of nature, and who was here buried by +his own desire, I had the opportunity of ascertaining a singular custom +prevalent in this country towards the dead, and which strongly elucidates +the prevailing ideas of its inhabitants, relative to the immortality of the +soul and a future state. + +After Monsieur Berauld's interment, his women, and the head people of the +town, assembled round the grave occasionally, for a series of days, +requiring every evening, from Mr. Hodgkin, a candle to light his grave, +which they kept burning during the period of their mourning, under the idea +that it would light him in the other world. In addition to this, a still +more singular rite was performed on this occasion, by Alimami, of the Port +Logo, and a numerous assemblage of natives, who sacrificed a bull to the +departed spirit of Berauld, who was held in great estimation among them. +From authority I cannot doubt, I am persuaded that when slaves have been +redundant, human sacrifices have been offered to the manes of their +favourite chiefs and princes. This horrid custom, which is even extended, +in many of the districts of Africa, to the productions of the earth, is a +most serious subject to contemplate, and a feature of barbarism, pregnant +with melancholy consequences to that class of beings, whom a late +legislative act has abandoned to contingencies, and the uncontrolled power +and avarice of other nations. + + + +CHAPTER VI. + + + + +_Return to Bance Island.--General Observations on the Commerce, Religion, +Customs, and Character of the Natives upon the Windward Coast.--An Account +of the requisite Merchandize for Trade, the best Mode of introducing +natural Commerce and Civilization into Africa, &c._ + + +The morning after my last arrival at Miffare I returned to Bance Island; +before I leave it, it may not perhaps be considered as inexpedient at this +stage of my narrative, to submit to my readers an account of the present +state of commerce upon the Windward Coast of Africa, the merchandize used +therein, a general outline of the religion, customs, and character of its +natives, and the system I conceive eligible, and consistent with the +claims of humanity, by which their intellectual powers may be improved, and +their enslaved state ameliorated; while our commercial ascendency may be +preserved with this region of the earth, and our enemies excluded from +those important advantages, which it only requires intelligence and +enterprise to unfold. + +In accomplishing this important part of my duty I beg leave to state, that +my reflections are the result of much deliberation upon the subject, +derived from manifold sources of information, and that I am the zealous +advocate of the radical abolition of the slavery of the human kind. The +motives by which I am actuated are, a philanthropic feeling for my species, +Christian principles, humanity, and justice: however I may differ, in the +means I shall propose, from many truly benevolent characters, yet I trust +that they will do me the justice to consider that my intentions are +congenial with theirs in the cause of humanity. + +I shall confine myself to a digested summary of actual observations on the +trade, laws, customs, and manners of the people I have had occasion to +visit; nor shall I attempt to enter into a minute detail on subjects +already ably delineated to British merchants, and with which they are +intimately conversant; but I shall treat of those branches of commerce +which have been hitherto confined to local knowledge, and not generally +known; submitting to the superior powers of the legislature, the +incalculable advantages to be derived by their interference to promote the +agricultural and commercial establishments upon the maritime districts of +Africa, as the only appropriate measure to attain a facility of intercourse +with the interior, and to enlarge the circle of civilised society. + +If my endeavours tend to increase the commerce of my country, and +eventually to emancipate the African, my design will be accomplished, and +my fondest hopes will be gratified. + +In pursuance of my plan, I shall first detail the present number of slaves, +and dead cargo, annually exported, upon an average, from the Windward Coast +of Africa, &c. from the information acquired from the traders of most +intelligence in respective rivers, and from my own observation. + + + +| | | | | | | |Amount +| | | | | | | |Sterling +| NAMES OF PLACES |A |B |C |D |E |F | L +|---------------------|-------|----|----|------|----|----|--------- +|River Gambia, and | | | | | | | +|Island of Goree . . .| 2,000 | 15 |-- |-- |150 |-- | 60,250 +|Rio Noonez. . . . . .| 600 | 20 |-- |-- |-- |-- | 19,000 +|Rio Pongo . . . . . .| 2,000 | 30 |60 |-- |-- |-- | 52,000 +|River Sierra Leone, | | | | | | | +|adjacent Rivers, | | | | | | | +|and Isles de Loss, | 3,200 | 15 |200 |800 |-- |-- | 82,250 +|inclusive . . . . . .| | | | | | | +|River Sherbro . . . .| 500 |-- |200 |300 |-- |-- | 18,000 +|---- Gallunas. . . .| 1,200 |-- | 80 |-- |-- |-- | 26,000 +|Cape Mount to | | | | | | | +|Cape Palmas . . . . .| 2,000 | 20 |-- |-- |-- |100 | 48,000 +| |-------|----|----|------|----|----|-------- +| |11,500 |100 |540 |1,100 |150 |100 |305,500 + + +A-Slaves, B-Ivory, C-Camwood, D-Rice, E-Bees Wax, F-Malaguetta Pepper + + + +Estimating slaves at 20_l_. each; ivory, 350_l_.; camwood, 25_l_.; rice, +10_l_.; wax, 100_l_.; and Malaguetta pepper, 10_l_. per ton, at first cost +upon the coast of Africa; the whole produces the sum of 305,500_l_. +sterling; to which may be added a three-fold export to leeward, which will +make an aggregate amount of nearly _one million_ sterling. In addition to +the foregoing exemplification, we have to contemplate the great +multiplicity of natural productions, abounding in this extent of region, +namely, indigo, numerous plants for staining, cotton in wild exuberance, +cocoa, coffee, and aromatic plants, &c. &c. Wild bees are so extremely +numerous, that wax forms an important article of trade which might be +considerably increased; substances proper for making soap are also to be +found in great abundance, raw hides, more especially in the Gambia, and the +countries insular to the Rio Noonez and Rio Pongo; gold is procured from +Bambouk, and tobacco is found in every direction, which might be greatly +increased by cultivation and an improved soil; cattle, poultry, Guinea +hens, different species of game, fish, with other animals; fruits, and a +variety of vegetable productions, calculated to satisfy every luxurious +want and desire. To these objects of commerce may be added, the now +important article of sugar, which might be raised to a great amount, in +various districts of Africa, as the climate is propitious to the growth of +the sugarcane, which, under proper cultivation, might be raised in great +perfection. + +The lands upon the banks of the Gambia, the Rio Noonez, the Rio Grande, the +Rio Pongo, in the Mandingo country, Sierra Leone, Sherbro, &c. are +universally allowed to be extremely fertile in many places, and abundant in +vegetation and population. + +These countries produce various hard woods, well adapted to cabinet work +and ship building, and are singular in their qualites and properties. + +The most remarkable are, 1st. the cevey, or kinney wood, which grows about +the size of the oak, in England, and may be cut into planks of 20 feet by +15 inches. Its texture is something of the ash grey and mahogany, +variegated with stripes, fancifully disposed, and is therefore adapted to +cabinet work; its qualities for ship building are peculiar, having the +virtue of resisting the worm and vermis, so destructive to shipping in +tropical climates, and corroding iron; it grows in great abundance. Any +quantity of this wood put into water sufficient to cover it, will, in a few +hours, produce an unctuous substance floating on the top, resembling +verdigrise, and of a poisonous quality. + +Secondly, the dunjay wood, rather coarser in the grain, but harder in +quality than the Spanish Bay mahogany. It possesses the same peculiarities +as the cevey or kinney, in resisting the worm in salt water, and corroding +iron. It may be procured in any quantity. And, Thirdly, the melley wood, or +_gris-gris_ tree, another species of mahogany, abundant in growth, having a +more rare quality than the foregoing, resisting the worm in both salt and +fresh water; it is extremely hard, and its juices so poisonous, in the +premature state, as to cause instant death. + +The manifold and neglected productions of this extraordinary continent +require only to be developed, and when the useful arts of Europe are +introduced here, ample recompense will attend the benevolent undertaking, +natural history will be much enlarged, and mankind be greatly benefited. +The claims of humanity, the distinguished part it has taken in an unnatural +and much to be deplored commerce, loudly unite with a wise policy, in one +impressive appeal to the feelings of the more refined inhabitants of +Europe, and to none more than those of Englishmen. + +The goods adapted to African commerce are, + +_East India goods_--consisting of bafts, byrampauats, chilloes, romals, +neganipauts, niccanees, red and blue chintz, Guinea stuffs, bandanoes, +sastracundies, &c. + +_Manchester goods_.--Cotton chilloes, cushtaes, neganipauts, photaes, romal +handkerchiefs, silk handkerchiefs, &c. _Linen Britanias_, slops, spirits, +tobacco, guns, swords, trade chests, cases, jars, powder, umbrellas, boats, +canvas, cordage, pitch, tar, paints, oil, and brushes, empty kegs, kettles, +pans, lead basons, earthenware, hardware, beads, coral, iron bars, lead +bars, common caps, Kilmarnock ditto, flints, pipes, leg and hand manilloes, +snuff boxes, tobacco boxes, cargo hats, fine ditto, hair trunks, knives, +looking glasses, scarlet cloth, locks, shot, glass ware, stone ware, +provisions, bottled ale and porter, &c. &c. + +The foregoing general enumeration may serve to convey a just conception of +the various manufactures requisite in the African trade, and the different +branches to which it is allied, yeilding support to a numerous body of +merchants, manufacturers, artizans, and many of the labouring class of the +community. + +Generally speaking, the Africans are unacquainted with specie as a +circulating medium of commerce, although they form to themselves an ideal +standard, by which they estimate the value of the commodities in barter; +this, however, fluctuates on various parts of the coast. + +From Senegal to Cape Mesurado, the medium of calculation is termed a _bar_; +from thence to the eastward of Cape Palmas, the computation is in _rounds_; +and on the Gold Coast in _ackies_ of gold, equal to 4_l_. sterling, and of +trade only half that value. + +At Goree the bar, under the French, was 4, pieces of 24 sous, and 1 of 6; +but at present the bar is considered a dollar. + +The bar is by no means a precise value, but subject to much variation; the +quantity and quality of the articles materially differing in many parts of +the coast, and frequently on rivers of a near vicinity; for example, six +heads of tobacco are equal in trade to a bar, as is a gallon of rum, or a +fathom of chintz. + +A piece of cloth which, in one place, will only pass for 6 bars, will in +others fluctuate to 10; hence the trader must form an average standard, to +reduce his assortment to an equilibrium. + +The following are the barter prices now established throughout a +considerable extent of the Windward Coast; but it is to be observed, they +are subject to fluctuation from locality of situation and other +circumstances. + + + + 1 blue baft 6 bars + 1 bonny chintz & stripe 8 + 1 white baft 6 + 1 byrampaut 6 + 1 chilloe 6 + 1 bijudapaut 6 + 1 cushtae 5 + 1 bonny blue romal 5 + 1 niccanee 5 + 1 sastracundie 4 + 1 India cherridery 6 + 1 taffety 15 + 1 cottanee 12 + 1 dozen britannias 8 + 1 piece of bandanas 6 + 1 barrel of powder 60 + 1 fowling gun 8 + 1 burding 6 + 1 soldier's gun 5 bars + 1 buccanier ditto 6 + 1 dozen of cutlasses 8 + 1 sword blade 2 + 1 iron bar 1 + 1000 arangoes 30 + 1 bunch of point beads 1 + 1 bunch of mock coral 1 + Red pecado 3lb. for 1 + Seed beads, ditto 1 + Battery ditto 1 + 1 Mandingo kettle 1 + 1 dozen of hardware 3 + 1 bason 1 + 1 ton of salt 60 + 1 fine hat 3 + Tobacco, 6lb. to 1 + Rum, per gallon 1 + + + +Prime ivory is procured at a bar per lb, and _escrevals_, or pieces under +20lb. 1 bar for each 1-1/2lb. + +As the natives are unacquainted with arithmetic, their numerical +calculations are carried on by counters of pebbles, gun-flints, or cowries. + +After the number of bars is decided upon, a counter, or pebble, &c. is put +down, representing every bar of merchandize, until the whole is exhausted, +when the palaver is finished; and, as they have very little idea of the +value of time, they will use every artifice of delay and chicane to gain a +bar. + +In matters of less consequence they reckon with their fingers, by bending +the little finger of the right hand close to the palm, and the other +fingers in succession, proceeding to the left hand, concluding the +calculation by clapping both the hands together; and if it requires to be +extended, the same process is repeated. + +Among the Foulahs in particular, commercial transactions are carried on +with extreme tardiness; a _palaver_ is held over every thing they have for +barter. The season in which they chiefly bring their trade to the coast is +during the dry months, and they generally travel in caravans, under the +control of a chief or head man. The head man of the party expects to be +lodged and accommodated by the factor, and before they enter upon business, +he expects the latter _to give him service_, or a present of kola, +Malaguetta pepper, tobacco, palm oil, and rice; if they eat of the kola, +and the present is not returned, the head man begins the trade, by making a +long speech, in which he magnifies the difficulties and dangers he has had +to surmount, &c.; mutual interpreters report this harangue. The trade for +rice is settled with little delay, but every tooth of ivory requires a new +palaver, and they will dispute for a whole day for a bar with the most +determined firmness. + +When the palaver and trade is gone through, they again expect a present, +and if they are pleased with the factor, they march off singing his +praises, which they communicate to all they meet on the road. + +The annual return from this commerce in colonial productions, has been from +_two_ to _three millions sterling_; for although large remittances have +been made in bills to the African merchants, yet these bills have been +provided for in produce by the planters. Politically considered, it will +appear, that its regeneration might have been more appropriately the +progressive work of time; and humanely viewed, it will also appear, from my +subsequent remarks, that by those means alone the African can be freed from +his shackles, and his condition efficaciously improved. + +But to proceed with the intention of this chapter, I shall next make some +remarks on the religion, customs, and character of the natives of the +Windward Coast. + +The natives on this part of the coast, and indeed throughout Africa, are in +general extremely superstitious; they believe in witchcraft, incantations, +and charms, and in certain Mahomedan doctrines, adopted from itinerant +devotees and priests of that persuasion, who are numerous among them, and +make a trade of selling charms. The Baggoes, Nellos, Susees, Timinees, &c. +occasionally worship and offer sacrifices to the Devil, and are equally +confused in their conception of the Supreme Being, of whose attributes they +entertain an assemblage of indistinct ideas, of which it is impossible to +give any clear description. They will tell the traveller with great apathy, +"they never saw him, and if he live he be too good to hurt them." Their +acts of devotion are the consequence of fear alone, and are apparently +divested of any feelings of thankfulness or gratitude for the blessing they +receive from the good Spirit which they suppose to exist. The Devil, or +evil spirit, which they suppose to exist also, claims their attention from +the injury they suppose him capable of inflicting, and is worshipped under +a variety of forms; at one time in a grove, or under the shade of a large +tree, consecrated to his worship, they place, for the gratification of his +appetite; a _country mess_, a goat, or other offering of this nature, which +they may conceive to be acceptable to his divinity, who, however, is often +cozened out of the offering by some sacreligious and more corporeal +substance, to whose nature and wants it is more congenial; at some periods +great faith is attached to their _fetish_, as an antidote against evil; and +at others the alligator, the snake, the guava, and a number of other living +animals and inanimate substances are the objects of their worship. Like +other unenlightened nations, a variety of external beings supply the want +of the principles of Christianity; hence the counterfeit adoption and +substitution of corporate qualities as objects of external homage and +reverence. + +_Fetish_, derived from the word _Feitico_, denotes witchcraft among the +majority of the maritime nations of Africa: this superstition is even +extended to some Europeans after a long residence in that country, and is +an expression of a compound meaning, forming an arrangement of various +figures, which constitute the objects of adoration, whether intellectually +conceived, or combined with corporeal substances; even the act of devotion +itself; or the various charms, incantations, and buffoonery of the priests +and fetish makers, who abound among them. In short, it is an incongruous +composition of any thing dedicated to the purpose; one kind of fetish is +formed of a piece of parchment containing an expression or sentence from +the Koran, which is associated with other substances, sewed up in a piece +of leather, and worn upon several parts of their bodies. Another kind is +placed over the doors of their huts, composed of distorted images besmeared +with palm oil, and stuck with feathers, some parts are tinged with blood, +and the whole is bedaubed with other preposterous applications. + +_Ghresh_, or _Gresh_, is an expression in the Arabic tongue, meaning to +expel or drive away, and, as I apprehend, by the repetition of the word, is +the expression from which the African _gris-gris_ is derived, consisting of +exorcised feathers, cloth, &c., short sentences from the Koran, written on +parchment, and enclosed in small ornamented leathern cases, worn about +their persons, under the idea that it will keep away evil spirits, and is a +species of _fetish_. + +The Mandingos, or book-men, are great _fetish_ makers, many of them being +well versed in the Arabic tongue, and writing it in a neat character. From +the impression of their superior learning and address, their influence and +numbers daily increase, many of them having become rulers and chiefs in +places where they sojourned as strangers, The religion they profess in +common with the Foolahs, Jolliffs, and other Mahomedan tribes, is +peculiarly adapted to the sensual effiminacy of the Africans: the doctrines +of Mahomet contained in their book I have procured from a very intelligent +chief in the Rio Pongo, and when I compare his account with others of his +nation on this part of the coast, the Foolahs, and the Mahomedan tribes in +the vicinity of the Island of Goree, I am persuaded the following is the +portion of the Islam faith believed by them. + +1st. That God is above all, and not born of woman. + +2d. That Mahomet stands between God and man, to intercede for him; that he +is superior to all beings born of woman, and is the favorite of God. And, + +3d. That he has prepared for the meanest of his followers and believers +_seventy-two bouris_, or black-eyed girls of superior beauty, who are to +administer to all their pleasures, and participate with them in the +enjoyment of the fountains and groves of paradise, and in the gratification +of those appetites congenial to their nature and existence in this world. +This nearly amounts to the entire belief of Mahomet's doctrine, which is +nothing but a compound of this eternal truth and necessary fiction; namely, +"that there is only one God, and Mahomet is the apostle of God:" from +hence, in the idiom of the Koran, the belief of God is inseparable from the +apostolic character of Mahomet. The fertile and politic imagination of this +impostor admirably adapted his tenets to the prevailing and established +customs; he tolerates polygamy, &c. and to add to the sanctity of his +pernicious doctrines, he represents himself as having been visited by the +angel Gabriel, in the cave of Hera, where he communicated to him the +precepts of the Koran, in the month of Ramadan, which he enjoins as a fast; +he interdicts wine, and inculcates the necessity of praying five times a +day, facing the holy city, &c.; forming together a system of the most +insidious character towards the establishment of pure Christianity. In the +performance of the duties of their belief, the Mahomedan nations of Africa, +upon the coast, are exact and scrupulous, but they have no idea of the +intellectual doctrines of the Islam faith, or the happiness described by +Mahomet as enjoyed by superior saints in the beatitude of vision; they are +as perplexed on this subject as they are in their conceptions of the divine +nature, and discover a surprising contraction of mental powers, when +considered as human beings endowed with reason. + +The nations, upon the Windward Coast, are in general little influenced by +belief in their actions. Forgiveness of injuries they conceive incompatible +with the nature of man; and a spirit of retaliation is very prevalent and +hereditary, descending in succession from father to son. They are extremely +jealous of white men, designing, ferocious, and cowardly; but there are, +notwithstanding, a great variety of localities existing among them, and it +will be found that their climate and habits are closely assimilated. + +To the Africans, the indispensible articles of life are reduced to a very +narrow compass, and they are unacquainted with the insatiate wants of +Europeans. The heat of the climate renders cloathing an incumberance, and +occasions a carelessness with regard to their dwellings: for the former, +they require only a stripe of linen, and their _gris-gris_; while a +building of mud, covered with an interwoven and thatched roof, forms the +latter, which is reared with little labour, and, when circumstances require +it, is abandoned without much regret. + +The food of the Negro consists chiefly of rice, millet, &c. seasoned with +palm oil, butter, or the juices of the cocoa-nut tree mixed with herbs of +various kinds. They frequently regale themselves with other dishes, +kous-kous, and country mess, to which they sometimes add fowls, fish, and +flesh, heightened in the flavour by a variety of savory applications. + +A contracted system of agriculture, conducted by their women and slaves, in +a very few days prepares the _lugars_, or cultivated fields; and the +harvest is distributed by the elders of the community, according to the +portion and wants of the society of the village, or is stored up to be +portioned out as circumstances may require. + +Water is the ordinary drink of the Negroes; they, however, regale +themselves with a wine extracted from the palm tree, as before described, +which, in the luxury of indulgence, they frequently suck through a very +small kind of cane, until inebriety and stupidity absorb them in a perfect +state of apathy. They have also a very pleasant beverage, extracted from +the cocoa nut and banana tree, besides several descriptions of beer, +fermented from various roots and herbs. In the Rio Pongo, and adjacent +countries, especially in the Bashia branch of that river, the Soosees +extract a fermented and intoxicating liquor from a root growing in great +abundance, which they call _gingingey_, something similar to the sweet +potatoe in the West Indies. The distillation is commenced by forming a pit +in the earth, into which a large quantity of the root is put, and covered +with fuel, which is set on fire, and kept burning until the roots are +completely roasted: the roots are then put into paloons, and beat, exposed +afterwards in mats to the sun, by which they acquire a taste similar to +honey; and are afterwards put into hampers for distillation. This is +performed by making a funnel of sticks in a conical form, interwoven +together like basket-work; the funnel is filled with the material, and +water poured upon it; the succulent moisture therefrom passes through a +tube, and yields a liquid similar in colour to coffee, and of a violent +purgative quality. It remains in this state about twenty-four hours, and is +then incorporated with a quantity of the ashes of rice-straw, which excites +a bubbling fermentation like boiling water, after which it becomes fit for +use. In forty-eight hours it returns again to its purgative state, which +interval is employed in drinking most copiously, until overtaken by +insensibility and intoxication. The root, in its roasted state, is an +excellent medicine for colds. + +Indigo and cotton grow in wild exuberance almost every where, without +culture, and the women collect such quantities as they consider requisite +for their families, which they prepare and spin upon a distaff; the thread +is woven, by an apparatus of great simplicity, into fillets, or pieces from +six to nine inches broad, which are sewed together to any width, required +for use. The indigo, in its indigenous state, and a variety of other +plants, colour these cloths, an ell of which will serve as a dress for a +Negroe of the lower class. + +They manufacture cloths, of a very fanciful pattern, from various +substances. I have some from the rind of the cocoa-nut, of great beauty, +and a fine texture; also cloth, fine mats, baskets, hats, ornaments, +quivers, arrows, &c. which all prove the taste and ingenuity of the +natives. + +The Negro is attached by love about his thirteenth year, and from sixteen +to twenty he seeks the object of his affection. This choice generally +continues in his confidence during life; and in proportion as he acquires +wealth, he associates with her several concubines, who generally live +cordially together. From this acquisition to his household, he is +considered rich; and it is a common expression with the Negro to say, "such +a man be rich, he have much woman." When an object excites his desire, he +consults his head woman, who, without any apparent suspicion of rivalry, +gives her assent, and forwards his suit; but she is displeased when not +consulted; and it is not uncommon that the object falls a victim to her +jealousy. Celibacy is a state almost unknown in Africa; and when it does +occur, it is considered as a degradation. + +The Negroe's existence is almost a gratuitous gift of nature; his wants are +supplied without laborious exertion, his desires are gratified without +restraint, his soul remains in peaceful indolence and tranquillity, and his +life glides on in voluptuous apathy and tranquil calm: he has few +solicitudes or apprehensions, and he meets the stroke of fate with perfect +resignation. + +In the countries which I have visited, and, as I understand from others, +every principal village or town has its _bantaba_, or _palaver-house_, +which I have before described. In this house, or under the shade of some +venerable tree, all ranks occasionally assemble in groups, from sun-rising +to sun-set, and pass the time in chit-chat, or in conversation on public +affairs. Their subjects are inexhaustible, and their tittle-tattle is +carried on with surprising volubility, gaiety, and delight; their time thus +occupied is so seducing, that they separate with great reluctance, +sometimes passing the entire day in this, pratling, smoaking, and +diversion: night, however, terminates these amusements: They assemble in +the open air during the dry season, and under the palaver-houses in the +wet, where they form themselves into dancing companies, generally during +half the night, and not unfrequently the whole of it. Their instruments of +music are upon a very rude construction, consisting of a _tabila_, or drum, +hollowed out from a piece of wood, and covered at each end with a bull's +hide, producing a most barbarous noise, accompanied by a _baba_, or rattle, +loud shouts, palaver, songs, and violent gesticulations, forming a system +of confused uproar, unmusical, and ungraceful. Their motions are irregular, +sometimes in violent contortion, and at others voluptuous and slow. Nothing +can be done without a palaver; and at the change of every dance, he from +whom the proposition originates, makes a solemn harangue over the musical +instruments, which is generally descriptive of some warlike action or +exploit, when they again give themselves up with rapture to the pleasures +of the dance, the females in particular, whose actions and shew of +luxuriant pleasure are highly offensive to delicacy, exhibiting all the +gradations of lascivious attitude and indecency. At this period of unusual +delight, they are applauded by the men with rapturous ardour; but suddenly +a feeling of shame strikes the minds of the young creatures with a +humiliating sense of their display, and amidst these plaudits they hastily +retire to the matrons, who are spectators of the scene, and hide their +blushes in their bosoms. So strongly implanted is this ingenuous and +amiable modesty in youth, which is frequently laid aside when engaged in +the vortex of pleasure, that it is one of the highest charms of beauty; and +wretches only, degraded by debauchery and systematic vice, are capable of +insulting this sentiment. A scrupulous regard to modesty and truth will not +permit me to pursue the description of these amusements farther than +observing, that they prepare them for a profound and tranquil sleep on +their mats, from whence they arise at the dawn of day cheerful and easy. +Thus infancy and youth are singularly happy, and mothers attend their +offspring with maternal feeling and delight; they are neither disturbed by +painful commands or restraint; and it is a picture of perfect happiness to +see these children of nature in sportive groups and infantine diversion. +This happy infancy and gay youth is peculiarly calculated to organise a +vigorous manhood, and a firm old age; and, I am persuaded, that these are +the physical causes why the Negro race are so muscular in body, and +procreative of their species. In some countries innoculation is practised; +but the small pox is not so common, or dreadful in its effects, in these +countries as in Europe. The greatest term of their lives may be computed at +from sixty to seventy years, it seldom or ever happening that life is +prolonged beyond that period in this part of Africa. They retain their +vigour, and enjoy a permanent and regular state of health until the last; +and I have observed a venerable chief of advanced years having the +possession of a dozen of young handsome wives, and the father of a young +progeny, whose legitimacy was never disputed or suspected. In Europe the +last stage of man is a daily anticipation of dissolution; but in Africa, +declining years are only insensible approaches to the termination of a +journey, the event of which he considers as the end of life, unconscious of +the future, but as a fatality equally attached to all the creation. + +The picture I have endeavoured to delineate may serve to convey an idea to +the mind of the moral and physical state of Africa, which, undisturbed by +ferocious barbarism, fierce hostilities, and horrid customs, convey a +blissful and happy state of being; but, alas! we must now take another +view, and contemplate these beings in the most degrading state, absorbed in +superstitious idolatry, inhuman customs, and shut out from the civil arts +of life, and the mild principles of Christianity. Their customs, their +hostilities, slavery, and the mode I have conceived requisite to +infranchise this unhappy race of men, I shall attempt to represent in the +following chapter; and happy shall I feel if the description excites the +attention and interference of more capacious minds on this subject, +interesting to so large a portion of the human race, and to the claims of +humanity. + + + +CHAPTER VII. + + + + +_The Mode of Trial by_ Ordeal _and_ Red Water _in Africa.--The Wars of its +Inhabitants.--The State of Barbarism and Slavery considered.--The Condition +of the Africans will not be improved by a late Legislative Act, without +further Interference.--Salutary Measures must be adopted towards the +Negroes in the Colonies.--A System suggested to abolish Slavery in Africa, +and the Slave Trade in general, and to enlarge the intellectual Powers of +its Inhabitants.--The proper Positions to effect an Opening to the Interior +of Africa, and to display to the World its manifold Resources._ + + +Trial by _ordeal_ in Africa is a punishment for petty thefts and +delinquincies. Trial by _red water_ is generally applied to crimes of +greater magnitude. After the usual ceremonial of calling a palaver, the +operation is performed by heating a piece of iron in the fire, the hand of +the accused is dipped into a viscous preparation, and the iron is +immediately drawn horizontally over the palm of the hand. If the judges +(one of whom is always the executioner) have previously determined, in +defiance of all the evidence, to prove the culprit guilty, the consequence +is that the flesh is seared; but if they are predisposed to acquit him, the +iron is dexterously applied so as to absorb the unctuous surface on the +hand without affecting it, and a sentence of not guilty is pronounced. + +Trial by _red water_ consists in making the accused drink a quantity of +water, into which is infused the poisonous juice of the melley or +_gris-gris_ tree; this is prepared by these _equitable_ judges, and +applied upon the same fraudulent principles as in the trial by the _ordeal +of fire_; it is, however, less resorted to. If the unhappy object of +suspicion is affected in such a manner as they consider as a proof of +guilt, his brains are knocked out upon the spot, or the body is so inflated +by the pernicious liquid that it bursts. In either of these catastrophes +all his family are sold for slaves. Some survive these diabolical +expedients of injustice, but the issue is uniformly slavery. When chiefs of +influence, guilty of atrocity and fraud, become objects of accusation, the +ingredient is of course qualified so as to remove its fatal tendency. Hence +justice seldom or ever in this country can punish powerful offenders, or +shield the innocence of the weak and unprotected. + +The iniquity and oppression sanctioned by these trials, is a dreadful +consequence of their avarice and inhumanity, for it is a fact that slaves +are created thereby, and human sacrifices offered to that spirit, which +they consider as their tutelar guardian: it is a subject which humanity +should seriously contemplate in the relinquishment of the slave trade, +whether, by the hasty adoption of that measure, before the intellectual +powers of the people are improved by civilization, this barbarous evil may +not be increased. When I closely enquired of the chiefs and natives +relative to these savage customs, they uniformly admitted the fact, "that +such live in their country," but with their characteristic dissimulation, +always denied having perpetrated these horrid acts, and shifted the +diabolical practice to some other nation or tribe, adding, "that only bad +men do that thing." + +Circumcision is practised among men, and a certain infliction on women, +not, however, from religious motives, but to guard against the consequences +of a disease not uncommon among them. The infliction upon women is the +result of infidelity, or a sacrifice of chastity to loose gratification. As +a preliminary, they retire to the _bunda_, or penitentiary, and are there +secluded from all sexual intercourse. When the season of penitence is over, +the operation is performed by the rude application of two stones, fashioned +and sharpened for the purpose; this obliterates all delinquincy, and on +their return to the world they are considered as restored to virgin purity. + +Wars in Africa originate from a variety of causes; in forming a correct +estimate of these, it is necessary to consider its localities and +situation. The inhabitants of this quarter of the earth, more particularly +those of the district now under consideration, compose numerous tribes and +nations, whose various views and interests excite jealousies and +contentions, which, aided by the passions peculiar to a barbarous people, +inevitably produce hostilities, and the effusion of human blood. + +What we have hitherto known of this country undoubtedly proves that wars +are carried on with the most sanguinary violence: their prisoners, by the +customs of the country, are consigned to massacre, slavery, and +sacrifice,[1] to gratify the avarice, vanity, and cruelty of their chiefs; +one of these passions must be predominant, and therefore the question is, +which of them is the least pregnant with evil? It cannot admit of a doubt +that those who are victims to avarice meet a more mild and humane fate, in +falling into the hands of Europeans, than the unhappy portion who are +sacrificed to vanity and cruelty; and it is equally true, that since the +interior nations have been enabled to exchange their slaves for European +merchandize, the number of victims to the latter passion has decreased. I +am far from being the advocate of slavery, but I am stating a fact, and +leave it to the reader to form his own conclusions. Where confirmed habits +and immemorial custom is to be supplanted, it is certainly requisite to be +well acquainted with the nature and character of the natives, which I have +not here introduced in an exaggerated shape, but infinitely within the +bounds of their savage ferocity. + +From these sources alone have arisen the expedients attendant upon the +slave trade; kidnapping and petty warfare form a very unimportant branch of +the barbarism which governs the inhabitants of Africa, and their enslaved +condition. + +Viewing this in the mass of moral evil which disgraces the character of +man, it will be found that it is even disproportioned to the estimated +population of Africa, which, from the best authority, has been stated at +upwards of 160 millions; and to apply the consideration to our own +situation, it will be found, that the number of executions and +transportations from the United Kingdom, in proportion to its population, +is infinitely greater than the number of slaves exported from the shores of +Africa, to its numerous inhabitants. Unquestionably the slave trade has +extricated a number of human beings from death, whom the horrible +sacrifices before described consigned to a barbarous exit, and has been a +cause, though an immoral one when applied to Britons, of extricating many +victims, who otherwise would have been annually sacrificed: humanity has, +therefore, some consolation in this polluted branch of our commerce, which +in its nature is barbarous and inhuman. + +Theories become extremely dangerous when they are impracticable, or +misapplied, and are pernicious in their consequences from the fallacious +measures they establish. In Africa crimes are punished by forfeitures, +slavery, or death; they are however rare; but accusations are often used to +procure slaves, whether for domestic purposes, sale, or sacrifice to their +customs. Death, as a punishment, is seldom the penalty of condemnation; and +if the culprit is rich, he can purchase his security. The alleged crime of +witchcraft, or magic, is a common means by which the chiefs increase their +accusations; and, consequently, the number of slaves. Adultery, and other +violations of social order, are punished by fine, but absolution is to be +obtained by money. + +The crimes by which the chiefs obtain the condemnation and disposal of +their subjects, are nearly all imaginary; for few exist which, under their +laws, are considered as acts of turpitude. The abuse of authority, the +action of violent passions, barbarous customs, ferocious habits, and +insatiate avarice among the chiefs, augment the number of captives and +victims, and the operation of these is much greater in the interior than in +the maritime districts; but this leads me to the next part of my subject, +namely, that a late legislative act will not, without farther interference, +improve the condition of the African. + +By the hasty conclusion of that measure, the unhappy African is now +abandoned to his fate; and we have surrendered him into the hands of other +nations, less acquainted with his character and situation. Former acts of +parliament had adopted wise and humane measures to ameliorate the condition +of slaves on board British vessls, so that their wants, and even their +comforts, were administered with a liberal hand; and much more might have +been done to augment these comforts. Instead of now being the object of +matured and wise regulations, the captive is exposed to the rapacity of our +enemies, who will derive great advantages from our abandonment of the +trade, and those who are incompetent, from the want of local knowledge, to +ease his shackles, and sooth him in his state of bondage. The magnitude and +nature of the disease, required a comprehensive system of policy to +eradicate it; and although in its nature and tendency of great moral +turpitude, alteratives were required calculated to its inveterate character +and established habits. The condition of the African, the probable +advantages he was to derive by our abandonment, and the circumstances of +commerce, were all considerations of important consequence. + +Even virtue itself must modify to its standard many considerations of moral +evil, more particularly in a political point of view, that it may the more +effectually establish its principles; nor can it, amidst the corruptions of +society, exercise at all times its functions with due effect; neither has +an instance occurred where its prudence and discretion was more imperiously +called upon, than in that now under consideration. It had immemorial custom +in Africa to contend with, inveterate barbarism, and savage ferocity. This +system had interwoven itself with our commercial existence so closely, as +to require the most sagacious policy to eradicate it; at the same time it +was the highest consideration for our magnanimity to interfere for that +being whose thraldom and calamitous state had so long contributed to our +wealth and commercial prosperity, before we abandoned him to contingencies. + +Enough may have been said in the foregoing pages, to prove that something +yet remains to be done to effect the manumission of the African, and +preserve the important branches of commerce, which necessity has allied +with the slave trade; and I entreat my readers to give this subject that +dispassionate consideration which its merits require, and beg to assure +them, that I obtrude my suggestions upon their notice with great submission +and diffidence, trusting that what may appear in my system deficient, +others more competent will embrace the subject, and excite the beneficence +of my country in behalf of the African, promote civilization and Christian +society in his country, display its arcana of wealth to the world, and open +a path to its commerce, free and unobscured. + +The colonization of the coast of Africa, in my estimation, is +impracticable, from its climate being uncongenial to the constitution of +Europeans, and from the system of slavery existing among its inhabitants, +without the employment of natives in their present condition. The requisite +authority to establish a system of labour, upon remunerative principles, +and with industrious vigour, cannot otherwise be supported; and a +misapprehension on this principle has been one of the great causes, as I +conceive, of the failure of the Sierra Leone Company in establishing their +agricultural objects. They attempted, in prosecution of their humane +project, an agricultural establishment on the Boolam shore, opposite to +their colony, where they had a choice of good lands: they proceeded upon +the principles of their declaration, "that the military, personal, and +commercial rights of blacks and whites shall be the same, and secured in +the same manner," and in conformity with the act of parliament which +incorporated them, more immediately that clause which relates to labour, +namely, "not to employ any person or persons in a state of slavery in the +service of the said Company;" but they have totally failed; and in one of +their reports, among other reasons, it is acknowledged, that for want of +authority over the free natives whom they employed, their agricultural +establishment on the Boolam shore was unsuccessful. Let not those worthy +and truly respectable characters, whose humanity has induced them to risque +an extensive property _unhappily expended without effect_, here consider +that I mean to militate against their views, but rather may they acquiesce +in the truth, and devise other expedients to promote their beneficent +objects, and to _assimilate the natives_ of the country with their views. +They have not only to lament a nonproductive profusion of their property, +but an _alienation of the natives_, occasioned by a misconception of their +character, by distracted councils, and the narrowed ideas of the agents +they employed to prosecute their humane endeavours, but also by a desolate +waste in their colony, without a regular feature of cultivation in its +vicinity. + +At Bance Island, where slavery and agriculture were united under one +superintendance in conformity with the established laws of the country, the +mechanic arts among the natives have arrived at a greater degree of +perfection than any situation I have visited upon the Windward Coast; and +had the intellectual powers of their minds been more amply considered and +cultivated, they would have exhibited an uncontrovertible example of the +capacity and intelligence of the African. Although, as I have previously +noticed, a superintendance directed only to the mechanical arts, applied to +the local necessities of the Island, has had the most visible effects, yet, +in proportion as their privileges have been extended, authority has become +more inefficient, and their labour less unproductive in a pecuniary point +of view, for want of a previous enlargement of their intellectual powers, +and a progressive operation of freedom commensurate thereto. + +I can bestow no panegyric adequate to the sense I entertain of that active +goodness which prompted the Directors of the Sierra Leone Company to the +undertaking I have alluded to; but with all due deference I conceive that +they have mistaken the practicable grounds, upon which the seeds of +civilization, and the principles of Christianity, can be effectively +displayed to the African. The Directors had to contend with a peculiar +co-mixture of passions, licentious habits, and hereditary vice; to +eradicate these, and to rescue the natives from their natural state, +alluring and progressive measures were necessary, founded upon an accurate +investigation of their characters and policy, and not by the fulminations +of intemperate zealots, and theoretical speculators. The beneficent views +of the Sierra Leone Company have been unaccountably perverted, and have +been the distorted instruments in prolonging, rather than extirpating, the +barbarism of the African: it is therefore a subject of great regret to the +benevolent supporters of this establishment, that an unprofitable +expenditure of their property is the only existing perpetuity of their +humane interference. Will it be found that the Company's agents have +introduced the arts of civilization among any tribe or nation in Africa, +that they have made any progress in agriculture, although possessing a very +extensive tract of fertile lands, or that they have converted them into any +of the regular features of cultivation? Have they explored or brought into +action any of the attainable and lucrative branches of natural commerce, +abounding in the region they inhabit, or do they employ a single ship in a +regular trade with the mother country? Will it be found that they have +unfolded the doctrines of Christianity, in their native purity and +simplicity, to the unenlightened African, or converted, by their preaching +and example, any tribe or nation among them?--The spacious waste is +destitute of the appearance of domestic industry, or respectable character; +it exhibits only a tissue of indolence, hypocritical grimace, petulant and +assuming manners, and all the consequences of idleness and corrupted +morals. To succeed in this beneficent undertaking, and to expunge the +inveterate nature of the African, his prejudices, and inherent customs, +progressive approaches upon his present condition are indispensibly +requisite, under the attractive influence of agriculture, manufactures, +commerce, and navigation. + +Accidental events, concurring with political causes, frequently render the +best concerted measures abortive, and retard their progress, but +unquestionably the above-mentioned are the means by which the African may +be manumitted, and his condition improved. The wisest laws operate but +slowly upon a rude and fierce people, therefore the measures of reformation +are not to be successfully performed by a coup-de-main, nor are the +hereditary customs of Africa to be erased by the inflammatory declamations +of enthusiasm, but by a liberal policy and the ascendency of the polished +arts of society. Commerce, the chief means of assembling, and agriculture +of assimilating, mankind, must first assume their fascinating and alluring +attitudes to the African upon his native plains. Too impetuous and indolent +to observe the forms, or enter into the requisite details of business, he +contemplates the effect, without investigating the cause; but, when he +discovers his own comparative wretchedness, he will be roused from his +innate indolence, his powers will be stimulated, and his emulation excited +to attain a more exalted state. + +Imperceptible and circumspect approach at innovation upon the laws, +customs, and country of Africa are indispensibly requisite, its chiefs and +head men must be cajoled, their jealousies dextrously allayed, and their +sordid avarice flattered by the prospect of superior gain. + +During the infancy of colonization, the employment of native labour must be +tolerated, as is evident by the unsuccessful attempts of the Sierra Leone +Company, and may appear from what I have already urged. Independent of +political considerations, of much weight, the uncongeniality of the climate +of Africa to the constitution of the European colonist opposes an +insurmountable barrier to the exercise of laborious avocations; therefore +it is necessary to employ natives, in conformity with the usage of the +country; and a recognition of property should exist in their persons; for +it is obvious, from experiment, that authority cannot otherwise be +established, or the necessary labour performed to produce an adequate +return. While this invidious exigency obstructs the immediate manumission +of the slave, it does not the less accelerate it, agreeable to the sound +and humane policy adapted to his condition; but, on the contrary, is +necessary to his complete emancipation; for he must first be taught the +nature of the blessings of freedom, his intellectual faculties must be +expanded, and the veil of barbarism gradually removed, to prepare him to +participate in its enjoyment. + +The system of colonization which I, with all submission, submit to the +legislature, and to my country, is this: + +1st. To employ natives in whom a recognition of property shall exist, as +unavoidable from the present condition of Africa. + +2d. To procure them from as wide an extent of the most powerful nations and +tribes upon the sea coast, as is practicable, and from the Slatees or slave +merchants from the interior countries. + +3d. That a requisite number of these should be fit for the present purposes +of labour, and for an immediate initiation into the mechanic arts, as +applicable to the local circumstances of the colony, and the useful +purposes of life. + +4th. That a proportionate number of males and females should form the +complement, from the age of 5 to 7 years, and be placed in a seminary of +instruction, under the inspection of the government of the colony, and +under tutors approved of in England. + +5th. That this establishment of a seminary of instruction in Africa, under +the administration of the colony, shall have for its bases the initiation +of these children, as calculated to their sexes, into the rudiments of +letters, religion, and science, and the progressive operation of education +adapted to the useful purposes of life. + +6th. That when thus prepared, the necessary avocations of domestic economy, +agriculture, and mechanics, employ the next period of their existence, +under the superintendence of the European colonist. + +7th. When arrived at the period of mature years, and thus instructed, to +become the object of legislative enquiry and investigation as to their +attainments, character, fidelity, and mental improvement. + +8th. That such as produce clear testimonials of capacity, knowledge, and +acquirement, become immediately objects of manumission. + +9th. That all proceedings in this process of education and emancipation, +become matters of record in the colony, subject to such control and +investigation as his Majesty's Government may, in its wisdom, appoint, from +time to time, to guard against the corruption and prejudices of the +legislative authority of the colony. + +10th. That thus endowed, they are to be dismissed to their respective +countries and nations, employed as agents in various capacities of +civilized pursuit, and to promote the commercial and agricultural views of +the colony, and disseminate their allurements among their tribe, which, +under the direction of the unerring dispensations of divine providence, +might, in process of time, diffuse civilization and Christianity throughout +the utmost region of Africa, its inhabitants become members of civilized +and Christian society, and their country, in process of time, be extricated +from its barbarism. + +It is for the legislature to devise a system adapted to the colonies, +calculated to their local situations, and to remove the invidious +distinction now subsisting between the African there, and in his native +country; by these means the entire Negro race may participate in the +blessings of civilization and revealed religion, in every quarter where our +extensive dominion and influence exist. + +By adopting the _first proposition_, a sufficient authority would be +maintained to enforce the labour necessary to produce profit, and competent +to excite emulation, which is a powerful passion in the character of the +African; for in every effort he discovers a strong spirit of competition. + +Through the medium of the 2d proposition, the natives of an extentive +district would be collected under the instruction of the European colonist, +and, in process of time, would become the happy instruments of initiating +their, tribe or nation into the arts of civilization, and in promoting the +commercial interests of the colony, which may eventually be diffused +throughout Africa. + +By the 3d expedient, an adequate portion of effective labourers would be +obtained to commence vigorous operations. + +In consequence of the 4th, 5th, and 6th, a portion of children of both +sexes would be procured at a moderate rate, in their unadulterated +condition, who would be susceptible of any impressions, free from the +control of their parents, and the contamination of their example, into +whose tender minds might be instilled the principles of moral virtue, +religious knowledge, and the civil arts of life. + +Through the adoption of the 7th and 8th, the objects of humanity might be +realized, and slavery, with the slave trade, make a natural exit from the +shores and country of Africa. + +By the 9th, the corrupted and interested endeavours of the colonists to +retard the work of emancipation would be controlled; and, by the patronage +of Government, pecuniary resource and support be obtained, in aid of +individual and corporate endeavours, the requisite population from the +parent state acquired, and the indispensible authority established to +secure success to any further attempts at colonization upon the coast of +Africa. + +And through the 10th expedient, an extended population would enjoy the +advantages of instruction and example, and our ascendency and commerce be +increased by a rapid process, which would predispose the natives to throw +open the avenues of their country to our enterprize and research. + +Thus may the long seclusion of the African from the light of truth and +revealed religion be annihilated, his inveterate jealousies allayed, his +nature regenerated, and his barbarism fall before the emanations of +enlightened existence. In the interim, an unobscured path to the interior +of his country will be opened, and our commerce therewith flow through a +less polluted channel; while the Negro, now the victim of barbarism in his +native land, may be extricated from his thraldom, and received into the +circle of civilized life, which he has hitherto been excluded from, and to +which providence, without doubt, in its mysterious and incomprehensible +administration of human affairs, has designed him to arrive at. + +[Footnote 1: A portion of them being destined to domestic slavery, as +victims to revenge, and as sacrifices to their barbarous customs.] + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + + + + +_What the Author conceives should be the System of Establishment to make +effectual the Operations from Cape Verde to Cape Palmas.--Reasons for +subjecting the Whole to one Superior and controlling Administration.--The +Situations, in his Estimation, where principal Depots may be established, +and auxiliary Factories placed, &c. &c._ + +What I have already said respecting the coast from Cape Verde to Cape +Palmas, may be sufficient to convey a tolerably just and general idea of +the religion, customs, and character of the inhabitants, the commercial +resources with which it abounds, and the system to be pursued to unite +commerce with the claims of humanity in one harmonious compact. + +I am persuaded there is no situation on the Windward Coast of Africa more +calculated, or more advantageously situated, than the river of Sierra Leone +to influence and command an enlarged portion of the continent of Africa. + +This part of Africa, as ascertained by Mr. Park, communicates, by its +rivers to the Niger, and introduces us to the interior of this great +continent; and, from other sources of information, Foolahs, Mandingos, &c. +I am enabled to confirm the statement given in one of the reports of the +Sierra Leone Company, that from _Teembo_, about 270 miles interior to the +entrance of the Rio Noonez, and the capital of the Foolah king, a path of +communication exists through the kingdoms of Bellia, Bourea, Munda, Segoo +(where there are too strong grounds to believe that the enterprising spirit +of Mr. Park ceased its researches in this world), Soofundoo to Genah, and +from thence to Tombuctoo, described as extremely rich and populous. The +distance from Teembo to Tombuctoo the natives estimate at about four moons' +journey, which at 20 miles per day, calculating 30 days to each moon, is +equal to 2,400 miles. This distance in a country like Africa, obscured by +every impediment which forests, desarts, and intense climate can oppose to +the traveller, is immense; and when it is considered that in addition to +these, he has to contend with the barbarism of the inhabitants, it is a +subject for serious deliberation, before the investigation of its natural +history and commercial resources is undertaken. But it also displays an +animating field of enterprise to obtain a free intercourse with this +unbounded space, and if, at a future day, we should traverse it with +freedom and safety, the whole of Africa might thereby be enlightened, and +its mysteries developed to the civilized world. + +I have therefore conceived the expediency of submitting all the enterprises +and operations of the United Kingdom to the influence of a supreme +direction and government in the river of Sierra Leone. No doubt many +contradictory opinions may prevail upon this subject, and upon the outline +I have previously submitted on the most eligible plan of introducing +civilization into Africa; but the detail of all my motives and reasons +would occupy too large a space; I shall therefore proceed to instance some +local circumstances and political reasons why I make the proposition. + +From what I have said respecting the path which Smart, of the Rochell +branch of the river Sierra Leone, has now under his authority, and can open +and shut at pleasure, communicating with the extensive country of the +Foolahs, whose king (as the Sierra Leone agents are well aware of, but who +was strangely and unaccountably neglected by them) is well disposed to aid, +by prudent application, all advances towards the civilization of his +country, it is evident that an immense commerce, extending northward to +Cape Verde, and southward to Cape Palmas, on the coasts, and from the +interior countries, might be maintained. + +By light vessels and schooners, drawing from 6 to 8 feet water, a continued +activity might be kept up in the maritime situations and rivers, and a +correspondence by land might be conducted by post natives, who travel from +20 to 30 miles per day, to all parts of the interior countries. + +From the Island of Goree a correspondence with the river Gambia, and a +watchful vigilance over the settlement of the French in the Senegal would +be maintained both by land and sea, which, with a well chosen position, +central from Cape Sierra Leone, to Cape Palmas, would combine a regular +system of operation, concentrating in the river Sierra Leone. In addition +to these three principal depots, it would be requisite to establish +factories, and places of defence to the northward, on the rivers Scarcies +and Kissey, at the Isles de Loss, the rivers Dembia, Rio Pongo, Rio Grande, +Rio Noonez, and Gambia; and to leeward, on the rivers Sherbro, Galhinas, +Cape Mount, Junk river, John's river, Bassau, &c. or in other commanding +positions towards Cape Palmas. The expense of these auxiliary +establishments and forts would be inconsiderable, compared with the objects +they would attain, the chief requisite being regular and well supplied +assortments of goods, and a wise system of organization adapted to +circumstances. + +The navigation of these rivers, and habits of conciliation and friendship +with the chiefs resident upon them, and towards the interior, it may here +be perceived, are the only practicable measures, under the auspicious +control of Government, to retain our commerce with Africa, to civilize its +inhabitants, and explore its hidden wealth; and are the most favourable, +also, towards our operations in the countries on this continent; while the +various natives attached to this pursuit, would aid, by wise management, in +influencing the inhabitants, where our researches and pursuits might carry +us, and eventually conduct us to the centre of Africa, from thence to the +eastern shores of the Mediterranean, and the banks of the Nile. I trust it +will here also appear that the means of acting, and the important +advantages to be derived therefrom, are neither illusive nor impracticable. + +It is to be lamented, that, in undertakings of this kind, men of limited +genius, of no experience in business, and incapable of acting with +unanimity, have been too frequently employed; who are governed more by +caprice than principle, and are consequently seldom able to reduce their +ideas into practice, and allow their passions to predominate over the +maxims of duty. Delicacy in managing the humours and interests of men is +the art requisite to successful operation. + +May it be remembered, that if civilization and our ascendency prevail in +Africa, and if the first essays we make to extend our relations with that +country are successful, we attach to the civilized world one-fourth of the +habitable globe, and its infinite resources. It therefore becomes a subject +of great magnitude, to commence and form a system of operation, to collect +the means of this immense extent, and the propriety of subjecting the whole +to a similarity of views, and co-operation under one controlling +administration. + +The precipitate abolition of the slave trade will reduce our affairs in +Africa, to a contracted and unproductive compass, in its present condition; +therefore if we attach any consequence to this quarter of the globe, it +will be expedient to endeavour to discover new scources [**Note: sources] +of commercial wealth and industry. + +Coffee, cotton, the sugar cane, cacao, indigo, rice, tobacco, aromatic +plants and trees, &c. first offer themselves to, our attention in wild +exuberance. And these, in my humble opinion, are the only rational means to +bring Africa into a state of civilization, and to abolish slavery. + +I recommend one administration under the patronage of Government, in the +Sierra Leone river, to guard against a want of unity in the number of petty +establishments that may otherwise exist on the coast, which from jealousies +and interests varying in different directions, produce operations of a +contradictory nature, and the first necessary step, is to be well +acquainted with the character and dispositions, of the natives, and the +localities of the maritime situations; for without combined enterprises, I +venture to predict we are now excluded from the commerce of Africa. + +I trust that my system will be examined in all its points, with +dispassionate impartiality before it is rejected; and if others more +competent to the task, devise more eligible means to promote the views of +humanity and commerce, I shall feel happy to have agitated the subject, and +rejoice at every means, to rescue so important a matter to the interests of +mankind. + +The commandant of Goree, I would propose as second in command, with +delegated powers to control all the operations in the countries bordering +on the Senegal, and the river Gambia; and an annual inspection directed by +him, throughout this district. The intermediate countries from the Rio +Noonez to Cape Mount would come immediately under the examination of the +central and administrative government of Sierra Leone, and the third +division under the authority of another command at a position chosen +between Cape Mount, and Cape Palmas. + +The military protection of the establishments, as I have here recommended, +would neither require great exertions, or numbers. Goree certainly claims +peculiar attention. Its fortifications should be repaired, and the guns +rendered more complete, and tanks for water should be in a perfect state to +guard against the want of this necessary article from the main land, which, +as before noticed, is liable to be cut off at any period by the enemy. The +convenience, airy and healthy construction of the barracks and hospitals, +claim the most minute attention and care. Under skilful superintendance in +these important departments, the health of the troops might be preserved, +and objects of defence realized with a very inconsiderable military +establishment. But as government must be well informed by its officers, +both military and naval in these points, it would be indecorous in me to +enlarge on the subject. Lieut. Colonel Lloyd, from his long residence, and +intimacy with a great portion of the Windward Coast, possesses ample +information. And the naval officers, who from time to time have visited it, +have, no doubt, furnished every document necessary to complete an effective +naval protection. A regular system of defence, adapted to the jurisdiction +of the Sierra Leone, and delegated establishment between Cape Mount and +Cape Palmas, are also obviously requisite. The establishments that would be +eligible for the purposes of defence, are confined to the three foregoing +principal positions, and they have little to perform that is either +difficult or embarrassing. It may not, however, be considered as going +beyond the bounds of propriety to hint, that a great portion of the +soldiers charged with defence, should be able engineers and gunners, and a +few cavalry might be occasionally found useful. To complete the entire +plan, and exclude our enemies from every point, from Cape Blanco to Cape +Palmas, the possession of the French establishment at the Isle of Louis in +the Senegal, is an abject of serious contemplation, and no doubt might be +attained with great facility by even a small force. The unhealthy +consequences to a military force attached to this place might be greatly +removed by superior convenience in the hospitals, barracks, and other +departments of residence; and in a commercial point of view, its advantages +are too well ascertained for me to obtrude any observations. + +The bricks necessary for building may be procured in the country, lime from +oyster shells, &c. wood and other materials at a very inconsiderable +expense; and as the usual mode of payment, is in bars of goods, instead of +money, the nominal amount would thereby be greatly lessened. + + + +CHAPTER IX. + + + + +_The Author embarks in the Ship Minerva.--Proceeds to the Rio +Pongo.--Disquisitions thereon.--Further Observations on the Inhabitants, +obtained from Natives of various Nations met with there.--The Isles de +Loss--Returns to Sierra Leone, &c._ + + +Upon the 4th of June, 1806, I embarked at Bance Island, on board the ship +Minerva of Liverpool, bound upon a trading voyage to the Rio Pongo, and +other rivers to the northward, and on Thursday the 12th came to an anchor +at the upper forks, in the Rio Pongo, being the point at which the branches +of the _Bungra, Charleston, Constintia,_ &c. empty themselves; higher up +the river are the _Sanga_ and _Bashia_ branches, occupied by a chain of +factories, and inhabited by various nations and tribes. The principal +factories for trade are on the Constintia, about 40 miles up the river, Mr. +Cummings's factory, at Ventura; Mr. John Irvin's, at Kessey; Mr. Benjamin +Curtis's, at Boston; Mr. Frasier's, at Bangra; Mr. Sammo's, at Charleston; +Mr. David Lawrence's, at Gambia; Mr. Daniel Botefeur's, at Mary Hill; Mr. +Ormond's, Mr. Tillinghurst's, Mr. Gray's, in the Bashia branch; with +various others of inferior consideration. + +During my stay on this river, I visited the whole of these branches, and in +addition to personal investigation, I obtained much information from the +various conductors of these factories, and had a variety of opportunities +of communicating with many of the natives from the interior countries, who +are drawn hither by the extensive commerce of the Rio Pongo. In my +excursions on this river, I was generally accompanied by Captain William +Browne, of Liverpool, who was part owner of the Minerva, and had the sole +management of the concerns of her voyage; and I am happy to give him this +public testimony of the many obligations he conferred upon me, while on +this part of the coast, which unceasingly continued until my arrival in +England, by the way of the West Indies. + +The countries bounded by the Rio Pongo and the Gambia, are inhabited by the +Nilloes and various tribes, who carry on a considerable trade with that +river, the Rio Noonez, and Rio Grande, and inland to the two latter, is the +powerful nation of the Foolahs, possessing an extensive country, about 200 +miles in breadth from north to south, and 400 miles from east to west. +Teembo, the capital of the Foolah king, is about 270 miles inland from the +entrance of the Rio Noonez. The paths for trade and communication with the +interior, from this position, are at the king's pleasure, and he opens and +shuts them by his mandate. The Foolahs are tall, well-limbed, robust and +courageous, grave in their deportment, are well acquainted with commerce, +and travel over an astonishing space of the country. Their religion is a +mixture of Mahomedanism, idolatry, and fetishism. One of their tenets, +which inculcates the destruction of those they term infidels, is peculiarly +friendly to slavery, and as the greater part of their neighbouring tribes +are of that description, they are continually practising every violence, +and, are frequently engaged in wars. When I suggested to a chief of very +considerable intelligence, and one of the Foolah king's head men, whom I +met in the Rio Pongo, the enormity of their injustice to the surrounding +tribes, and how displeasing it was to the God they prayed to, his reply +was, "True, this be bad fashion to Foolah, or Mandingo man, but these +people we make war against never pray to God, nor do we make war with those +who give God Almighty service." While this barbarism exists, and the slave +trade is continued, humanity will have to, bewail the miserable condition +of the African slave. For this, and various other reasons that might be +urged, and considering the position and extensive influence of the Foolah +nation, their king claims a high consideration in a combined scheme of +establishment upon the coast. + +So impressed was this chief, of the beneficial advantages to be derived +from agriculture, that he tendered land, cattle, men, &c. to the agents of +the Sierra Leone Company, only requesting from them, in return, a delegated +superintendance; but, strange to tell, this disposition was not cultivated +nor improved; nor was the further offer of the king of Laby, and his high +priest, to place their sons under the protection of the Company, to be sent +to England and educated. A more important step could not have been taken to +attain the object of the Directors, than this of attaching the Foolah +nation to their interest. + +The women of this nation are handsome, and of a sprightly temper, and their +countenances are more regular than those of the common Negroes; the hair in +both men and women is much longer, and not so woolly, but they have a most +disgusting custom of forming it into ringlets, bedaubed with oil and +grease, which gives them a very barbarous appearance. The Foolah tongue, is +different from that of the surrounding nations, and its accent is more +harmonious. + +To the southward of the Rio Pongo, to Sierra Leone, lie the countries of +the Bagoes, Soosees, Mandingos, Timminees, and Boolams, all idolaters +except the Mandingos, who, like the Foolahs, associate in their religion a +mixture of fetishism and Mahomedanism. The Timminees are a more harmless +race of men than any of the other _infidel_ nations, and their dispositions +are more calculated to industrious avocations than their neighbours. + +I have already noticed the Mandingos, but, as I consider this nation and +the Foolahs of the first consequence, from their power and influence over +the other nations of this part of the coast, I shall add a few more +observations upon them. + +From what I have before stated, it will appear that the Mandingos are a +numerous people in Africa, gaining a daily influence and authority in the +district now under consideration. Besides the tribes of this people who +inhabit the countries between the Soosees and Timminees, there are various +others established in the country of Bambouk, and on the borders of the +Gambia, but the great body occupy an extensive territory above the sources +of that river. + +The empire of the Mandingos is not, however, so considerable as that of the +Foolahs, but from their increasing influence over the western countries, +from their docile and cunning dispositions, their knowledge in merchandize, +and acquirements in book-knowledge, their power must, in process of time, +be greatly increased; and it will be of the utmost moment to civilize them, +in order to acquire an influence over the more barbarous states. + +Notwithstanding the cunning and dissimulation which characterizes these +people, they are generous, open, and hospitable, and their women are +aimiable and engaging: they are more zealous Mahomedans than the Foolahs; +their colour has a mixture of yellow, but their features are more regular +than the other nations of Africa which I have seen. The Foolahs, the +Mandingos, and the Joliffs, bordering on the Senegal, are the most handsome +Negroes on this part of Africa; the hair of the latter, however, is more +crisped and woolly, their nose is round, and their lips are thick; this +nation, in particular, is blacker than those approximating towards the +line; nor are the Negroes in the Krew coast, and towards Palmas, so black +as the nation I now speak of; which may tend to prove, that the colour of +the Africans does not arise from a vertical sun, but from other physical +causes yet unknown. + +There is a characteristic feature between the Mahomedan nations of Africa, +particularly those from the shores of the Mediterranean (whom I have seen +in my travels in that quarter) which, with their almost universal +profession of the Mahomedan religion, sanctions the idea, that this part of +the coast has been peopled from the eastern parts of the continent; but the +visible difference in religion, complexion, and feature, of the nations +towards Cape Palmas, give rise to other conjectures. An obvious difference +may be observed among these numerous nations; their language and their +customs are various, and are frequently without affinity or relation. From +the shores of the Mediterranean to this part of Africa, the majority of the +nations are Mahomedans, but towards Cape Palmas they are gross idolaters, +with a mixture Mahomedanism and superstition; many of them erect temples, +and dedicate groves to the devil. I have seen several of these, which +exhibit no outward sign or object of worship, but consist of stumps of +trees, in a circular form, covered with leaves, or a thatched roof, in the +centre of which stands a square altar of mud, without any image of +adoration. The reason assigned by them for their omission in this +instance, is, "that they never look the Devil or evil spirit, therefore +they do not know how to make any thing like him." To the good spirit they +neither make offering nor sacrifice, considering it as unnecessary to +obtain his favours, from his disposition to do nothing but good, which of +course he will administer to them. + +From every thing that I have observed, I conceive that idolatry, and fetish +worship, is the predominant religion of Africa, and that Mahomedanism has +been propagated by the Moore and Arab's. It may not here be unopportune to +introduce the Mandingo man's prayer, which I obtained from a very +intelligent chief of that nation: viz. + + +_Mandingo Arabic_. + +Subbohanalahe Rabila'ademy +abodehe. Subbohanala rabila +Allah. Subbohana arabe. Inye +allamante, nafuse wa amutate +sue wakefurella. Teyatelillahe +tebates allivatuelub lahey. +Sillamaleko ayo hanabehe, obara +katolahe Sullamalina Ihannabe, +lebadelahe Salihenee" + +The address to Mahomet follows, +viz. + +Sahadala elahe idillaha +Mahomedo, arasoolo lahi +man Mahomedo aboodaho. + +_In their idiom of English._ + +God lives and, is not dust. +God be master of all and is +above his slaves. God knows +his slave, and is not made of +earth; but above all. (Before +the next sentence, Subbohana +arabe, &c. he bows twice.) + +Suppose I die, I can look you +to-morrow, and thank you, and +be out of trouble, and free from +the Devil. + +(Teyatelillahe, &c. accompanied +by a motion of the fingers) + +I beg in my prayers again, +God, I may die to day, I look to +thank you again to-morrow, +my people and family may +then get into trouble, and I +then pray to you. + +To Mahomet. + +Mahomet be man, born of +woman, the prophet of God, +and speak to him for man. + + +In this system of prayer there is a mixture of fetishism, Mahomedanism, and +a strong analogy to the Christian system; and it is no inconsiderable +argument in favour of the mediation of the Saviour, that in the worship of +heathen nations a mediator is uniformly associated with the object of +adoration. Virgil in his Aeneid, and other classic writers, illustrate a +belief of the ancient heathens in the omniscience of the deity, and they +clearly elucidate the importance they attached the mediatorial efficacy of +offerings and sacrifice. + +The form of worship adapted to the foregoing prayer, is to squat down upon +the ground, placing the palm of their hands flat thereon twice, touching +the earth the same number of times with their foreheads; then rubbing their +arms from the wrist to the elbow, with that which is contracted by this +operation, when the hands are applied to the face, and the forefingers put +into the ears. + +I have dwelt more minutely upon this people and their present condition +compared with the Foolahs, because I consider these nations have it much in +their power to shut and open the paths of intercourse with the interior +countries, therefore they become of importance, in the contemplation of any +pursuits upon this district of Africa. + +The Mandingoes inhabiting Galam, and the countries interior to the Gambia, +carry on the principal trade with those of Bambouk, &c. where gold is +procured. This precious metal is obtained from the surface of the earth, +and from the banks of the falls of the rivers in the rainy season; it is +first washed in a calabash; and when the water is poured off, the dust, and +sometimes large grains remain. The natives have no idea of mining; but it +appears from hence, that mines of this metal must exist, which are +concealed thro' the want of the arts of civilized life. The Mandingoes +speak of these countries with a great air of mystery, and are extremely +jealous, lest Europeans should obtain any information relative to them: as +they carry on almost exclusively, this branch of commerce. + +When I was in the Bashia branch of the Rio Pongo, a meteor of an +extraordinary kind appeared for two successive nights, directing its course +from NE. to SW. which put the natives in a most dreadful state of +consternation; the women fell into loud lamentations, the men beat their +drums, and sent forth the most horrid yells; imagining, that this barbarous +uproar would drive away the object of their fears. In eclipses of the sun +and moon, they repeat their prayers and sacrifices, with the same clamour, +under the notion that it will frighten away the monster which they suppose +to obscure these planets from their view. These superstitious notions have +the most powerful influence over the Negro's mind, and it is impossible to +dissuade or reason him out of them. + +From all I have stated, the great importance of these countries, to open an +intercourse with the interior of Africa, must appear. On the borders of the +Rio Pongo, and other rivers, excellent lands, forming hill, and dale, are +every where to be found, and well adapted to agricultural experiments. With +the _consent of the chiefs_, these might be obtained at a small expense, +and many of them with whom I have communicated, would gladly embrace a wise +interference; but they all complain, "white man not know their fashion," +intimating in very forcible language, that every caution should be used, at +innovation upon their laws, customs, and manners. Let example first excite +their admiration, and their barbarism will bow before the arts of +civilization, and slavery be gradually abolished. + +Before I conclude this chapter, I shall make some observations upon the +temperature of the western countries of Africa, situated between Cape Verde +and Cape Palmas, mention the principal diseases, and those which Europeans +are most exposed to on their first arrival in these countries, and give +general precautions against the dangers of the climate, &c. + +The inexhaustible fecundity of Africa holds out to Europeans strong +excitements to enterprise and research; but in the pursuit, the diseases +which prevail in this country should be well understood; and it would be +highly expedient, in any plans of colonization, to attach a medical staff, +as the natives have no idea of the art of surgery, except what arises from +the knowledge they have of the properties of herbs, and the superstitions +attached to their fetishism. In annexing this extraordinary country to the +civilized world, and exploring its stores of wealth, a burning climate, and +the diseases peculiar thereto, unite with the barbarism of its inhabitants +in opposition to the European; but by a strict observance of necessary +rules, and avoiding all kinds of excess, the formidable influence of the +sun may be resisted, and the pernicious effects of exhalations, which arise +from a humid, marshy, and woody country, may in a great degree be obviated; +and I am sorry to say, that for want of proper precaution and through +ignorance, fatal consequences more frequently occur, than from the +unhealthiness of the climate. + +The temperature from Cape Verde to Cape Palmas is extremely various from +the vertical rays of the sun, the nature of the soil, and the face of the +country. + +In the months from November to March, by Fahrenheit's thermometer, it has +been from 70 deg. in the morning, to 90 deg. at noon, in the shade; and nearly the +same variation has been observed at the river of Sierra Leone; and in some +places in the Foolah country it has been from 50 deg. to 90 deg. + +From July to October, the mean temperature in the river Gambia, by +Fahrenheit, has been from 90 deg. in the morning to 100 deg. at noon in the shade, +and during the same months at Sierra Leone from about 92 deg. to 106 deg.; but a +variety of local circumstances may give a greater or less degree of heat: +this however may serve to give a general idea of the temperature of these +countries. The island of Goree, for example, the island of Bance, and the +bay of Sierra Leone, are more healthy, enjoying the cooling sea breezes, +more than situations in the rivers more interior. The banks of all the +rivers in Africa, which I have visited, are enclosed by impenetrable +forests, marshes, and the closely combined mangrove tree, and it is but +seldom that the land forms an uneven dry surface on their borders. +Instances however in the Sierra Leone, Rio Pongo, &c. occasionally occur, +when the most picturesque scenery adorns the river. + +From May to August, hurricanes or _tornados_, before described, prevail +upon the Windward Coast, and this phenomenon is to be met with from Cape +Verde to Cape Palmas. The months from November to March are remarkable for +the prevalence of east and north-east winds. When these winds, which are +called _harmatans_, set in, they are accompanied with a heavy atmosphere, +and are of a dry and destructive nature. Every description of vegetation is +blasted by their influence, and every object, animate and inanimate, feels +their powerful effects; the skin is parched and dried, and every feature is +shriveled and contracted. The most compact cabinet work will give way, the +seams of flooring open, and the planks even bend. Furniture of every sort +is distorted; in short, nothing escapes their dreadful power. The nights at +this period are cool and refreshing. + +The months of July, August, September, and October are rainy, from the +equator to about the 20th degree of north latitude. Towards the equinoxial +they begin earlier, and make their progress to windward, but the difference +throughout the whole of the north tropic fluctuates little more or less +than 15 or 20 days. When the rains commence, the earth, before parched up +and consolidated into an impenetrable crust, by the powerful influence of +the sun and a long period of drought, is immediately covered with vermin +and reptiles of all sorts, creating a moving map of putrefaction. The +natives ascribe to these many of their diseases; but a further cause may be +added, namely, the great change from heat to cold, and the variations at +this season. + +The powerful influence of the sun, which at this period is almost vertical, +quickly dissipates the clouds which obscure the sky, and produces an almost +insupportable effect; but new clouds soon condense, and intercept the solar +rays; a mitigating heat follows; the pores are compressed, and prespiration +ceases. Variations succeeding so rapidly, are attended with the most +serious effects, and the most fatal consequences. And, lastly, the noxious +exhalations arising from the inaccessible forests and marshy swamps which +abound in Africa, and from numerous animal and vegetable remains of the dry +season, which cover the soil every where, are productive of putrid +effluvia. These rains, or rather periodical torrents of water, which +annually visit the tropics, invariably continue for about four months of +the year, and during the other eight it rarely happens that one single drop +falls; in some instances, however, periodical showers have happened in the +dry season, but the effects of these are scarcely perceptible on +vegetation; the consequence is, that the surface of the earth forms an +impervious stratum or crust, which shuts up all exhalation. + +When the rains cease, and the heat of the sun absorbs the evaporations from +the earth, which have been so long concealed during the dry season, a most +offensive and disgusting effluvia is produced, which then fastens upon the +human system, and begets diseases that in a short time shew their effects +with dreadful violence; and no period is more to be guarded against than +when the rains cease, for the intense heat completely impregnates the +atmosphere with animalculae and corrupted matter. + +The principal complaints which attack Europeans are, malignant nervous +fevers, which prevail throughout the rainy season, but they are expelled by +the winds which blow in the month of December; from hence these _harmatans_ +are considered healthy, but I have heard various opinions among medical men +on this subject. Dr. Ballard (now no more), whose long residence at Bance +Island, and in Africa, and whose intimate acquaintance with the diseases of +these climates, peculiarly qualified him to decide upon the fact, was of +opinion, most decidedly, that the _harmatan_ season was not the most +healthy. + +When this malignant fever takes place in all its virulence, its +consequences are the most disastrous; the symptoms are violent and without +gradation, and the blood is heated to an increased degree beyond what is +experienced in Europe; the ninth day is generally decisive, and this is a +crisis that requires the most vigilant attention and care over the patient. +I speak this from personal experience. In consequence of the fatigues I +underwent in the Rio Pongo, and other rivers, and having been for several +days and nights exposed to an open sea, and to torrents of rain upon land, +I was seized with this dreadful disorder, although I had enjoyed an +uninterrupted state of good health before, and on my arrival at the colony +of Sierra Leone was unable to support myself on shore; and had it not been +for the kind attention and skilful prescriptions of Dr. Robson of that +colony, with the friendly offices of Captain Brown, I should, in all +probability, at this stage have finished my travels and existence together. +Dysenteries frequently follow this fever, which are of a very fatal +tendency, and sometimes the flux is unattended by fever. This disease is +not uncommon in persons otherwise healthy, but it is productive of great +debility, which requires a careful regimen; if it continues to a protracted +period, its consequences are often fatal. In my own case, a dysentery +followed the fever, and reduced me to a mere skeleton. The dry belly-ache +is another dangerous disease, accompanied by general languor, a decrease of +appetite, a viscous expectoration, and fixed pain in the stomach. Opium is +considered an efficacious medicine in this disease, and is administered +with great perseverance, accompanied by frequent fomentations. An infusion +of ginger drank in the morning has frequently good effects. Flannel assists +excretion, and is found beneficial. _Tetanos_ is also another disease +peculiar to Africa, and is a kind of spasm and convulsive contraction, for +which opium is the usual remedy. + +The Guinea worm is another disease among the natives, which is productive +of tumours upon the body and limbs, productive of great pain, and is a +contagious disease. This, however, is a subject without my province, and +which has been ably treated upon by gentlemen, whose profession fully +qualified them for the investigation. In addition to the many valuable +treatises upon tropical diseases, from high authority, I would recommend +Dr. Winterbottom's publication to the reader, as, embracing highly +important local information upon the diseases of the Windward Coast. + +I have only touched on those which have more immediately come within my +personal observation. Too much care cannot be taken by Europeans in +drinking, and even washing in the waters of Africa, which should always +undergo a filtering preparation, and I am persuaded that great +circumspection should be used in this respect: these and other precautions, +with a generous, but regular system of living, would no doubt tend to +diminish the fatal tendency of diseases in Africa. + +Without doubt, a series of professional observations and enquiry into the +temperature and periodical variations of the climate of Africa, and its +diseases, would be attended with the most important advantages to the +science of physic, and might ultimately prove of incalculable consequence +in preserving the valuable lives of our brave soldiers and sailors, exposed +to all the ravages of tropical climates. Advantages that are well worth the +attention of government, which would train up a body of physicians and +surgeons, initiated into the mysteries of the diseases peculiar to those +countries, which might tend to preserve a large portion of human beings of +the utmost consequence and importance to the state; and it might form a +part in the organization of colonial establishments, to attach thereto an +institution of this nature. + + + +CHAPTER X. + + + + +_The Author visits the Isles de Loss.--Remarks on those Islands.--Touches +at the River Scarcies.--Arrives at the Colony of Sierra Leone.--Embarks for +the West Indies--Lands at the Colony of Demerory.--Some Observations on the +Productions of that Colony, Berbice, and Essequibo, and on the Importance +of Dutch Guiana to the United Kingdom, in a political and commercial View._ + + +On the 4th of July, I rejoined the Minerva at the Palm Trees, and on the +5th we weighed and passed the bar of the Rio Pongo, steering our course for +the Isles de Loss; and on the 6th came to an anchor off Factory Island. + +The Isles de Loss, in the Portuguese language meaning Islands of Idols, are +so called from the idolatrous customs of the natives, and are seven in +number; Tammara, Crawford's, Factory, Temba, White's, Goat, and Kid +islands. Tammara is the largest, but very difficult of approach, and has +few inhabitants; Crawford's has two factories for trade, belonging to +gentlemen formerly in the service of the Sierra Leone Company; and Factory +Island has an American establishment, conducted by a Mr. Fisk, These are +the principal (the others being little more than barren rocks), and they +abound in vegetation and natural productions. Squilly, or the sea onion, to +which great medicinal qualities are ascribed, grows in great abundance in +these islands, and might be procured in almost any quantity. Dr. Lewis, in +the _Materia Medica_, or _Edinburgh Dispensary_, describes the peculiar +qualities of this root. + +The positions of these islands are excellent for trade, but exposed to the +predatory excursions of the enemy, who have frequently pillaged the +factories established in Crawford's Island. + +On the 9th we again got under weigh, steering our course for the entrance +into the river Scarcies. The night was attended by tremendous peals of +thunder, lightning, and torrents of rain: we continued off and on until the +12th, when we arrived outside Mattacont Island, bearing E. by S. and the +Isles de Loss in sight. At 2 P.M. I accompanied Captain Brown, with five +hands, in the pinnace, with the intention of running into the Scarcies +river. We sailed with a fresh breeze in expectation of gaining the entrance +by the approach of night; but we were obliged to anchor in the open sea, +amidst the most awful peals of thunder, while the whole heaven displayed +nothing but vivid flashes of lightning. Amidst this tremendous scene, +exposed to the mercy of the waves, with the prospect of being deluged by +rain, we secured our little bark and ourselves, in the best manner our +circumstances would admit, and committed ourselves to the all protecting +care and disposal of Providence. The mantle of night was soon spread around +us, the scene was grand and solemn, and we were at length hushed to rest by +the jar of elements, and the murmurs of the ocean. We awoke to contemplate +an azure sky, and the all-bountiful mercy of the Creator, in preserving us +from such imminent danger, to pursue our destination through breakers, +shoals, and sands. + +At day-light, with a breeze from the land, we weighed, and steered our +course S.S.E. for the Scarcies bar, but the wind shifting to the S.E. and +the ebb tide running strong, we were nearly driven out of sight of land; we +were therefore obliged again to anchor, and wait the change of tide. +Trusting to a sea breeze that had just set in, it being slack water, we +again weighed: the serenity of the weather did not long continue, but soon +increased to a brisk gale, accompanied by thunder, lightning and rain; we +were driven with great impetuosity through the narrow channel between the +bar and the shore, and from the shallowness of the water, the rollers +continually broke over our heads, threatening our destruction every moment. +Providentially we surmounted these dangers, and at 5 P.M. entered the +river, which is interspersed with islands and picturesque objects, that +could not be viewed without interest. I have been thus minute in describing +this excursive voyage, that others, whose business may hereafter lead them +to this river, may profit by the difficulties we experienced in this +critical and dangerous passage. We were obliged to come to an anchorage in +the river during the night, under a very violent rain, and the next day +arrived at Robart, the factory of Mr. Aspinwall. + +This gentleman, whom a previous acquaintance had induced me to visit, +received us with great hospitality and kindness. From a residence of +upwards of 32 years on the coast, he possesses much intelligence and +valuable information relative to this part of Africa, and I am indebted to +him not only on this, but on former occasions, for many interesting +particulars. + +The factories of trade in this river are, + + + + Mr. Aspinwall, Robart. + Boatswain, A black chief and trader, above Robart. + Mr. Lewis, Rocoopa, attached to Bance Island. + Mr. Gordon, Thomas's Island, ditto. + + + +With a variety of small factories attached to those of Mr. Aspinwall. + +On the 15th we took leave of Mr. Aspinwall, and embarked on board a +schooner he had the kindness to furnish us with; and after a very tedious +and tempestuous passage, arrived at Sierra Leone on the 21st, having had +contrary winds to contend with; whereas with a favourable breeze, the +passage is usually performed in a few hours. + +Here I was attacked with the epidemic fever of Africa, and experienced the +medical assistance and friendship I have previously noticed. + +In an exceedingly exhausted state, but much recovered, I again embarked on +board the Minerva, where I had a second attack of the fever, accompanied by +dysentery, which reduced me to the lowest state of existence; and after one +of the most distressing and disagreeable voyages I ever experienced, we +arrived in Demerary roads after a passage of 71 days, and, by the +providence of the Almighty, we escaped both disease and the enemy. + +A few hours after we came to an anchor I went on shore, and I verily +believe that the passengers and spectators suspected they had received a +visitation from the world of spirits. When I reached the house of Mr. Colin +McCrea, Captain Brown's consignee, the unaffected and gentlemanlike +reception I met with, both from him and his lady, with their subsequent +kind conduct, can never be effaced from my memory. Captain Brown soon +joined us, and in the most engaging terms we were invited to become inmates +with Mr. McCrea and his partner, which we availed ourselves of during our +stay in Demerary. A few days after, I became acquainted with Mr. Alexander +McCrea, brother to my kind host, and as soon as my health would permit, +visited him at his plantation, the Hope, 11 miles from Stabroke, the +capital of the colony of Demerary. In this society, and from other +quarters, I was favoured with various information upon the situation of the +colonies in Dutch Guiana, and their importance in a political and +commercial point of view. + +The colonial produce of Demerary, Essequibo, and Berbice, chiefly consists +in sugar, coffee, cotton, rum, and molasses; but the richness and fertility +of the soil is capable of raising any tropical production; new sources +being daily unfolded, of the immense wealth derivable from these colonies, +and their great importance to Great Britain. The following example, +extracted from the Custom House reports, may elucidate this in a striking +degree. + +In the June fleet of 1804, consisting of sixty sail of various burthen and +tonnage, there were exported, viz. + + + + 17,235 Casks of sugar. 203 Casks coffee. + 442 Barrels do. 39,701 Barrels cotton. + 3,399 Puncheons rum. 336 Hhds. molasses. + 8,668,885 lbs. wt. coffee. + + + +Calculating sugar at L20. per cask, and L3. per barrel; rum 150 guilders, +or L12. 10s. per puncheon; coffee 1s. per lb.; cotton L20. per bale of 3 +cwt; and molasses a guilder, or 1s. 8d. per gallon, the total amount will +be upwards of L1,600,000. + +This immense export has since progressively increased, and colonists are +only wanting to augment it to an inconceivable extent. How valuable then do +these colonies become, and of what importance are they, in any negociation +with the enemy. + +Unquestionably under the fostering care and guidance of British +jurisprudence, they would produce an accumulated export infinitely beyond +the present computation, and be productive of increasing wealth to the +merchant, and revenue to the country. + +The lands are still more fertile proceeding towards the interior, and being +thinly inhabited, are attainable with great facility, and are extremely +various in their productions. + +At this period these valuable possessions were nearly in a defenceless +state, having a very inadequate and feeble military force to defend them, +and being almost without naval protection; they had literally only an armed +brig and schooner, built and set a float by the colony of Demerary, to +guard an extensive coast, and an immense property. + +In addition to the foregoing enumeration of commerce, indigo, pepper, +cacoa, or chocolate nut, &c. may be raised to great amount. Of the latter, +an individual planter at Berbice, from a nursery of 500,000 trees had +138,000 bearing ones in 1806, which when gathered in, calculating 5lb. to +each tree, will reimburse him in the sum of L32,000. + +Retrospectively viewed, it will appear that the colonies of Dutch Guiana +are of the utmost importance to the revenue, and wealth of Great Britain. +If any consequence is attached by government to the West Indies, and it +would be preposterous to infer that there is not, these become of great +magnitude in the estimation of our colonial possessions, and if they are to +revert to their former proprietors, it evidently should be for no mean +equivalent; and it is but justice to say, that when I was in this part of +the world, the apparent negligence in the protection and jurisdiction of +these possessions, by the administration of the day, had so far alienated +the minds of the inhabitants, that their reversion to the former government +did not appear to be a subject which would excite their regret; although +they were originally predisposed in favour of Great Britain. + +Contemplating also Dutch Guiana in our present state of warfare, and +viewing it, from its contiguity, as an alliance of magnitude to French +Guiana, the Brazils, and the Spanish settlements of South America, from +whence, in the existing situation of Europe, the insatiate ambition of our +inveterate enemy derives an important sinew of finance, which nerves his +arm in wielding the sword against the liberties and the existence of the +United Kingdom, they become infinitely enhanced, and are of still more +momentous consideration. + +Indisputably their possession would tend much to facilitate the British +dominion in this lucrative portion of the globe, which might lead to a +decisive termination of hostilities, and the permanent establishment of +honourable tranquillity. + +On the morning of the 30th of October I took my grateful leave of my +hospitable host and his family; and, accompanied by my trusty friend, +fellow voyager and traveller, Captain Brown, I embarked at noon on board +the ship Admiral Nelson, the command of which he had taken, accompanied by +about 20 sail of vessels under convoy of his Majesty's sloop of war, the +Cygnet, commanded by------Maude, Esq. + +Touching at Tobago, where our fleet was augmented, we came to an anchor in +the harbour of Grenada, on the 5th of November, and remained there until +the 9th. + +The history of this island, with that of the West Indies in general, is so +well known, that it would be delaying my readers unnecessarily, for me to +obtrude my observations. One anecdote, however, which among a variety of +experiments, I made to ascertain the sentiments of the Negroes in the +colonies, may prove, in a high degree, their sentiments upon their present +condition. When I mentioned to them some spot, or some head man in their +country within their recollection, with the utmost extacy they would say, +"eh! you look that, massa?" I then assured them I had, and described the +pullam, or palm tree, in their native town: the effect of this remembrance +was instantaneous, and demonstrated by the most extravagant expressions of +delight. Conceiving that I had attained my object, and being persuaded that +the transportation of these people was an oppressive transgression against +their natural rights, I added, "I had fine ship, I go back to their +country, and obtain leave from massa, to let them go look their country;" a +sudden transition from extravagance to grave reflection followed; "I, +massa, me like that very well, me like much to look my country; but +suppose, massa, they make me slave, me no see my massa again; all the same +to me where I be slave, but me like my massa best, and I no look my country +with you." + +Among every class with whom 1 have conversed on this subject, I have +uniformly received a similar answer, and it is a convincing proof that, by +humane treatment, the condition of the slave is improved, not only by his +transportation to the colonies, but in his own estimation. + +It may be interesting to notice, that at the island of Grenada, I had an +opportunity of correctly ascertaining the truth of a statement, I had heard +from a medical gentleman of respectability at Demerary, that, that ravager +of the human species, the yellow fever, was first imported into this island +from the island of Bulam, in the Rio Grande, upon the coast of Africa, by a +ship called the Hankey, which brought away the sickly colonists from that +unfortunate expedition. + +On the 16th we arrived at Tortola, and on the 19th sailed with the fleet +under convoy of the La Seine frigate, and landed at Liverpool on the 6th of +January, 1806. + + + +CHAPTER XI. + + + + +_Conclusion_. + +I have endeavoured in the foregoing pages, to introduce to my readers, the +substance of my diary of observations upon the Windward Coast of Africa. + +Originally I only intended them for my own private satisfaction, and that +of my intimate friends; but on my arrival in England, I found that the +commerce of Africa was then a particular subject in agitation, among a +large portion of my fellow subjects, and the legislature of my country. + +Under these circumstances, I conceived it my duty as a British commercial +subject, and as a friend to humanity, to communicate my sentiments to the +Right Honourable Lord Viscount Howick, then one of his Majesty's principal +secretaries of state; which I did in the subjoined letter. (Appendix No. +I.) Upon further reflection, and by the express wish of respectable +individuals, I have been induced to obtrude my narrative and sentiments +upon the notice of the public. I have avoided as much as possible to +magnify my personal adventures, and dangers, nor have I had recourse to the +flowing periods of description, preferring a simple narrative of facts +formed upon grounds of personal observation. From thence, if my endeavours +tend to awaken a spirit of enterprise, to enlarge the trade of the united +kingdom, and to increase the export of its manufactures, or lead to more +intelligent interference in behalf of the enslaved African, my design will +be accomplished. + +To do justice to the natural history of Africa, and to introduce to the +public its various sources of commerce, would require a union of political +interests, and vigorous execution, which none but government can apply with +full effect. + +The principal outline which I have endeavoured to confine myself to, is a +recital of such traits of the disposition and character of the natives, as +seem requisite to be understood to form an accurate judgment of the present +condition of Africa. The advantages that may possibly result not only from +moral, but political considerations, in forming upon sure principles, +agricultural and mercantile establishments, calculated to instruct and +civilize the Negroes employed in the necessary avocations, will unfold the +fertility of their soil which is now left to nature; and will also fulfil +the expectations of a rational humanity, while it might rapidly expel +slavery and the Slatee trade, to the establishment of civilization, and +more natural commerce. I have also endeavoured to demonstrate the +eligibility of the position of the river Sierra Leone, from whence a +controlling and administrative authority might employ the resources of the +Windward Coast from Cape Verde to Cape Palmas, at the same time submitting +solely to the wisdom of government, the propriety of annexing Senegal to +our possessions on the coast; which of course would tend to the total +exclusion of France from this part of the world. + +I have besides dwelt upon such positions, as appear to me best calculated +to establish factories of trade and agricultural operation; and upon the +nations whose barbarism must first be subdued, in order to influence other +tribes, and to obtain a free intercourse with the interior, and have +pointed out those chiefs whose dispositions and influence, would greatly +co-operate to facilitate this beneficent undertaking. + +The rivers I have dwelt upon, are surrounded with fertile lands and a +numerous population, and may be navigated a considerable distance into the +interior country; and by reducing all operations to one well adapted +system, under the guidance of experience, moderation, and wisdom, I am +firmly persuaded that success will be the result. + +What I have said relative to the present state of the natives of Africa, +may tend to demonstrate the nature of the opposition, which civilization +has to guard against, and the barbarism it has to contend with. The +condition of a free Negro in Africa is easy and contented, and the class of +slaves attached to them, are satisfied with their fate. They only are to be +lamented, who are procured from condemnation, either for real or imaginary +crimes, or who are taken in war; and it is from this class that slaves are +procured by other nations. It is a remarkable circumstance, that the major +part of these unhappy creatures come from the interior, and that the +maritime places which have had intercourse with Europeans, afford only a +small number of slaves; and I am persuaded, abominable as the slave trade +may be considered, and disgraceful as it is, that it has saved many human +beings from a premature and barbarous death. I am also firmly of opinion, +that it is only by a _gradual abolition_, and a rational system to civilize +the inhabitants of Africa, that this detested traffic can be effectually +abolished. A rational philosophy and humanity, should first have submitted +to political necessity, and have commenced experiment upon practicable +theories, while the sacred rights of property should have been regarded, +and well considered. + +This opinion may perhaps subject me to the animadversion of many worthy +individuals; but I beg to assure them, that I am as zealous an abolitionist +as any among my fellow subjects, although I widely differ from many of +them, as to the means of effecting a measure, that embraces so large a +portion of the human race; and I should contradict the conviction of my own +mind, were I to utter any other opinion. + +Rectitude of intention, a lively interest in the condition of the African, +and a deep impression of the importance of this country to Great Britain, +in a commercial point of view, have actuated me in obtruding myself upon +the public; and before I take my leave, I earnestly entreat a deliberate +investigation of the imperfect system of operation, I have recommended in +the foregoing pages. If I have not been sufficiently perspicuous, I trust +the shafts of criticism will be enfeebled by the consideration, that a +commercial education and pursuit cannot claim a title to literary +acquirements; but if in any instance I meet the judgment of a discerning +public, and my suggestions excite more competent endeavours, I shall feel +the highest pleasure, and satisfaction. + +Into the hands of an enlightened legislature, and a beneficent public, I +commit the Negro race; and may their endeavours be blest by Providence! may +they tend to enlarge the circle of civilized and Christian society, and +augment the commercial prosperity of the United Kingdom! + + + +APPENDIX. + +No. I. + +_To the Right Honourable Lord Viscount Howick, his Majesty's late principal +Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs; shewing at one View the most simple +and ready Mode of gradually and effectually abolishing the Slave Trade, and +eradicating Slavery, on the Eve of his Lordship introducing the late Bill +into Parliament for the Abolition of the Slate Trade_. + + + _London, 5th February, 1807._ + + MY LORD, + + +Stimulated by an ardent zeal for the political and commercial interests of +my country, and animated by the principles of humanity, I venture to +approach your Lordship upon a subject which, with every deference, I +conceive to be of the most momentous consequence at the present +conjuncture, namely, the existing state of Africa, and the relative +importance of its trade to the _United Kingdom_. + +In my communications to your Lordship, I shall adhere to that brevity which +is consistent with perspicuity, and a recognition of the importance +attached to your Lordship's time and weighty engagements. + +If experimental knowledge, my Lord, attaches any force to the observations +I now submit to your Lordship, I have to premise, that they are the result +of recent personal investigation, and are a summary of remarks detailed in +journals of a very excursive observation on the Windward Coast of Africa, +and a peculiar facility of intercourse with the chiefs and native tribes of +a widely extended circle, from which I am returned, by the West Indies, in +the late fleet under the convoy of his Majesty's frigate La Seine, and +Merlin sloop of war. + +As a preliminary introduction, permit me to refer your Lordship to the +annexed copy of a letter, (Appendix No. II.) which I ventured to address to +the Right Honourable the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, dated 1st +May, ultimo, in which is exemplified the present state of commerce from the +Island of Goree to Cape Palmas. Vide page 54. + +Conclusive as this example may be of its magnitude, yet it is infinitely +below its attainable increase. The want of naval protection, and the +patronage of government, has greatly fettered it, and exposed the property +engaged therein, to the incursions and destructive depredations of the +enemy. + +Connected with its present extent, the Gambia, the Rio Pongo, the river +Sierra Leone, and the rivers adjacent to Cape Palmas, abound with the +greatest variety of the most lucrative and rare objects of commercial +pursuit, namely, indigo, numerous plants for staining, pepper, cotton, and +a multifarious enumeration of dormant productions, besides timber of +various kinds, adapted to the building of ships destined to tropical +climates, having the peculiar quality of resisting the worm, so ruinous to +shipping, and corroding iron; it may be cut into planks of 20 feet by 15 +inches, and may be procured in any quantity. + +A retrospective view therefore, my Lord, displays a fruitful field to +commercial enterprise, to the attention of civilized nations, to the +naturalist, and to the metaphysician, requiring united interference only, +to unfold and fertilize them; which in effect, would tend to enfranchise a +kindred species, absorbed in barbarism, and preserve, uninterrupted, our +commercial advantages with this extraordinary and important quarter of the +globe. + +It is, certainly, my Lord, a subject of the deepest regret to the +philanthropist, that among the Africans, a devoted race is consigned to the +galling fetters of slavery by their inhuman customs, by their barbarous +hostilities, and the commercial expedients of civilized states. + +Much has been written and said, my Lord, upon this interesting subject, +from authority high in rank, in talents, and situation, but still it is +involved in a perplexed labyrinth; the attainable sources of African +commerce remain unexplored, and the inhabitants of its extensive regions +are still entangled by the thraldom of barbarous customs, and superstitious +infidelity. No efficient measures have been adopted, upon practicable +grounds, to unite the views of humanity and commerce in one harmonious +compact, compatible with the present condition of Africa, its character, +its customs, and its inveterate barbarism. + +Benevolence has, unhappily, hitherto failed in its objects, through the +opposition of a peculiar mixture of passions, of obstinate ferocity, and +licentious and hereditary habits. + +To subdue the inveteracy of these evils, and to establish the manumission +of the African, alluring and progressive alterations are necessary, +compatible with his present condition, under the influence of agriculture +and mechanics, adapted to the useful purposes of life, to commerce, and to +navigation. + +Previous to his enfranchisement, my Lord, these must exhibit before him +their facinations upon his native plains. Too impetuous and indolent to +observe the forms, or to enter into the necessary details of business, he +views the effect without investigating the cause; but when he perceives the +former, and contemplates his own comparative wretchedness, and contracted +sphere of intellect, he will be roused from his innate indolence, his +powers will be dilated, and his emulation stimulated to attain a more +exalted state of being, while his barbarism will fall before the luminous +displays of enlightened example. + +Hence, to free the African, commercial and agricultural societies adapted +to the present state of the country, appear to be the most practicable +means, and the only sources of remunerative and effective influence: but as +these measures necessarily require population from the parent state, aided +by great pecuniary support, and intelligent superintendance; the patronage +of the legislature is indispensibly requisite, to aid individual and +corporate endeavours. + +In pursuance hereof, imperceptible and circumspect approach at innovation +upon the laws, customs, and country of Africa, are highly expedient; the +chiefs and head men claim a primary consideration; their obstinate +predilection in favour of long-existing usage must be cajoled, the +inveteracy of their jealousies and superstitions be dexterously removed, +and their sordid avarice flattered, by the judicious maxims of policy, and +by the prospects of superior gain. + +The slave trade, therefore, being lucrative, and of immemorial existence, +must, in the interim, pursue its present course, as a fatality attached to +the condition of Africa, and as a polluted alliance, which the dictates of +policy and humanity impose, until a succedaneum is found in its stead. + +While this invidious exigency obstructs the immediate manumission of the +slave, it does not the less accelerate it in conformity thereto, but on the +contrary, is a necessary preliminary to his efficacious emancipation. + +Before he is admitted into the political society of his master, and is +allowed to be free, his intellectual faculties must be expanded by the +example of polished society, and by the arts of civilization. + +Maxims of policy, my Lord, are often apparently little consonant with those +of morality; and where an inveterate evil in society is to be eradicated, +address and delicacy in managing the humours and interests of men, are arts +requisite to success. + +This consideration is applicable to the present condition of the Africans, +and may perhaps justify a farther continuance of the _slave trade_, as +compatible with its _radical abolition_. + +The reasonings adopted by a numerous assemblage of chiefs, convened in the +retirement of the mountains of Sierra Leone, when _that_ company assumed a +defensive attitude, most clearly prove this grievous necessity. + +In their idiom of our language they say, "White man now come among us with +new face, talk palaver we do not understand, they bring new fashion, great +guns, and soldiers into our country, but they make no trade, or bring any +of the fine money of their country with them, therefore we must make war, +and kill these white men." + +This, my Lord, is an impressive epitome of the sentiments of the whole +country, and hence the impolicy of illuminating their minds and abolishing +slavery, in order to erect a system of reformation upon an invidious base +in the estimation of the governing characters of the country. + +With every deference, my Lord, to the wisdom and benevolence which framed +the constitution of the Sierra Leone Company, I would observe, that had +they adopted the following measures, they would before now have been far +advanced in their scheme of reformation. + +1st. They should have employed their funds in the established commerce of +the country. 2d. Have purchased slaves from as _wide an extent_ of native +tribes as was practicable; they should have employed them in that capacity, +under the superintendence of the European colonist; have initiated them +into the arts of agriculture and useful mechanics, manufactures, and +navigation, and have instructed them in the rudiments of letters, religion, +and science, &c. + +3d. having arrived at this state of civilization and knowledge, their +_graduated manumission_ should have proceeded in proportion to their +fidelity and attainments. + +And, lastly, being thus qualified, they should have employed them as the +agents to their tribe, to make known to them the arcana of wealth in their +country, dormant through hereditary barbarism and superstitious idolatry, + +From the adoption of the first proposition, a facility of intercourse with +the interior and native tribes would have been acquired, and also a +knowledge of the genius, policy, customs, manners, and commercial resources +of the neighbouring nations. + +By the 2d, the seeds of science would have been disseminated throughout an +extended district, and a spirit of industry and enquiry would have been +infused, which, by imperceptible degrees, under the guidance of Providence, +might eventually have been spread throughout the most remote regions of +Africa. + +By means of the 3d, the objects of humanity would have been realized. + +And by the progressive influence of the last, a system of civilization and +commercial enterprize would have been diffused, and an equivalent, in +process of time, been obtained, consistent with the cogency of existing +circumstances, and the African's present state of being. + +By adopting this system, my Lord, the maxims of sagacious policy, and the +claims of humanity, upon practicable principles, may be united, and adapted +to the present condition of Africa, while our commerce therewith will be +invigorated and encreased, and will flow without interruption through a +less polluted channel; the seclusion of the African from the refined arts +of society be annihilated, his jealousies allayed, his nature regenerated, +his barbarism fall before the advantages of enlightened existence, and his +enslaved customs make their natural exit, together with the slave trade, +from his shores and his country. + +How animating is this contemplation, my Lord, to the beneficence of +enlightened nations, and how worthy of the magnanimity of a British +government to effect! + +In the interim, my Lord, new and accumulated sources of commerce, &c. will +remunerate the parent state in a manner more congenial with the natural +rights of mankind, while a monumental column will be erected to humanity, +which will perpetuate its exalted benevolence, and excite the admiration +of, and be an example to, the civilized world; but if Africa is abandoned +by Great Britain, it will be subject to the rapacity of other nations, who, +_to my personal knowledge_, are _now_ directing their views towards its +commerce in the contemplation of that abandonment, and who will, no doubt, +seize it with avidity, as being highly lucrative and important; while the +African's chains will still clink in the ears of the civilized world, his +fetters be rivetted more closely, and his miserable fate be consigned to +the uncertainty of human events. + +Finally, permit me to assure your Lordship, that I am wholly uninfluenced, +and that I am, at this moment, ignorant of the present opinions of men in +Europe upon this interesting subject, as I have just arrived in England, +and have been excluded for some time past from any other scene but that of +personal observation in Africa. + +I have considered the subject with deep interest, and finding the momentous +question upon the eve of being agitated by the legislature, I have +conceived it my duty, as a British commercial Subject, to give every +information to your Lordship, within my personal knowledge, and have, +therefore, obtruded my thoughts upon you; and if your Lordship deems a more +detailed and systematic view of my journals of any interest, I am ready to +unfold them with the utmost alacrity. In the interim, I am, + + + My Lord, + Your Lordship's most obedient + humble servant, + + + + JOSEPH CORRY. + + +No. II. + + + + _To the Right Honourable the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty,_ + _referred to in the foregoing Letter to Lord Howick._ + + _Bance Island, River Sierra Leone, Coast of Africa,_ + _May 1st, 1806._ + + + + MY LORDS, + + +That consideration which has uniformly distinguished your Lordships for the +safe-guardianship of our commerce, and the property engaged in it, +stimulates me to approach your Lordships with some few observations on the +present state of the African trade, and its dependencies. + +My object is, to submit to your Lordships a statement of the British +capital involved in that commerce, as exemplified by the present amount of +export, diligently ascertained from the most authentic sources of +intelligence, and to offer some brief remarks on its importance to the +United Kingdom, and the necessity of a more adequate naval protection. + +In the first place, permit me to solicit your Lordships' attention to the +estimate of annual export from the Windward Coast of Africa. (Vide page +54.) + +Your Lordships will perceive, that the amount of export _only_ is here +under review; and I submit to your consideration the capital vested in the +necessary shipping, also the property of British factors, resident on the +Coast, and factories belonging to merchants at home, which forms another +article of great importance. + +During the present war, from the Rio Noonez to the river Sierra Leone, 660 +slaves, and more than the value of 100 slaves in craft, have fallen into +the hands of the enemy; which were forcibly seized upon the premises of +factories, the property of British subjects, to the amount of 35,000_l_. at +the computation of 50 each, valuing them upon an equitable average: +moreover, about one hundred resident free people have been involved in this +violence, of incalculable importance, and ground of indefinite claims from +the natives. + +When your Lordships contemplate these facts, and the annual emolument +derived from this commerce by the government, and a numerous body of +merchants, it may be presumed that its magnitude is of sufficient +consequence to justify the expense of _adequate naval protection_. + +British subjects connected with, and resident on, the Coast, are +consequently become deeply interested, and are earnestly solicitous for an +extension of your Lordships' paternal care towards their possessions. The +principal amount, as before shewn, necessarily in the progress of business, +passes into currency through their hands, which, with the surplus property +they have in their stores, their buildings, and people, creates a momentous +risque, which is exposed to the predatory ravages of piccaroon privateers, +and to the hostile squadrons and depredations of the enemy. + +With all due retrospective reference to your Lordships' vigilance and +watchful guardianship over our commerce, I take the liberty to remind your +Lordships, that only one sloop of war, the Arab, (the Favourite being +taken) has been charged with the important office of defending an extent of +coast of upwards of 1000 miles, against the sweeping hand of the enemy; an +example of which has fatally occurred in the late destruction effected by +Commodore L'Hermitte's squadron, to the very serious injury of many British +merchants, and perhaps the ruin of many underwriters upon African risques. + +From the apparent approaches the legislature appears to make towards an +abolition of the slave trade, the object of consideration for the defence +of the coast of Africa may have become of less comparative magnitude; but +when upwards of one million in export from thence, and its enumerated +appendages, are entangled, and at imminent hazard, an animated and +impressive appeal is made your Lordships for every practicable security, +while it remains in existence; and to the legislative wisdom, for a +remuneration commensurate thereto, in the event of its annihilation. + +Trusting that your Lordships will deign to recognize the importance of this +subject, and will vouchsafe to pardon my temerity in assuming to suggest to +your Lordships' wisdom the expediency of establishing a more adequate and +permanent naval force for the protection of the trade and coast of Africa, +I am, + + + My Lord, + Your Lordship's most obedient + devoted humble servant, + + + + JOSEPH CORRY. + + +No. III. + + +When the foregoing narrative and observations were prepared for the press, +the original minutes from whence the following Appendix is compiled, had +not come to hand, as they remained with a part of my papers, which I have +since received from the coast of Africa. + +The substance of these miscellaneous fragments I shall divide into +sections, descriptive of the different subjects to which they allude, and +it may be found that they illustrate more fully many of the foregoing +remarks upon the Windward Coast of Africa. + +SECTION I. + +_Of the Purrah_. + +Among the singular customs of the inhabitants of Africa, there exists in +the vicinity of the Sierra Leone, and more particularly among the mixed +tribes of the Foolahs, Soosees, Boolams, &c. an institution of a religious +and political nature. It is a confederation by a solemn oath, and binds its +members to inviolable secrecy not to discover its mysteries, and to yield +an implicit obedience to superiors, called by the natives the _Purrah_. + +As it is dangerous to enquire from the natives, and consequently difficult +to procure information on this subject, conjecture must supply the want of +oral and ocular testimony; but what I have here advanced I had from an +intelligent chief, who was a member of the society, who, I am nevertheless +convinced, preserved his integrity, in communicating the following +particulars, as I never could induce him to touch upon any part of the +mysteries, which he acknowledged to exist, but spoke of them with the +utmost reserve. + +The members of this secret tribunal are under the supreme control of a +sovereign, whose superior, or _head man_, commands by his council, absolute +submission and authority from the subordinate councils and members. + +To be admitted into the confederacy it is necessary to be thirty years of +age; and to be a member of the grand _purrah_, fifty years; and the oldest +member of the subordinate _purrahs_ form those of the sovereign _purrahs_. + +No candidate is admitted but at the recommendation and responsibility of +members, who imprecate his death, if he betrays fear during his initiation +into the ceremonies, or the sacred mysteries of the association; from which +females are entirely excluded. + +Some months elapse, in the preparation for admission, and the candidate +passes through the severest trials, in which every dreadful expedient is +employed to ascertain his firmness of mind, and courage. + +The candidate is conducted to a sacred wood, where a place is appointed for +his habitation, from which he dares not absent himself; if he does, he is +immediately surrounded and struck dead. His food is supplied by men masked, +and he must observe an uniform silence. + +Fires, during the night, surround these woods, to preserve them inviolate +from the unhallowed steps of curiosity, into which if indiscretion tempts +any one to enter, a miserable exit is the result. + +When the trials are all gone through, _initiation_ follows; the candidate +is first sworn to secrecy, to execute implicitly the decrees of the +_purrah_ of his order, and to be devoted to the commands of the _sovereign +purrah_. + +During the process of initiation, the hallowed woods resound with dreadful +howlings, shrieks, and other horrid noises, accompanied by conflagrations +and flames. + +This secret and inquisitorial tribunal takes cognizance of crimes and +delinquencies, more especially witchcraft and murder; and also operates as +a mediator in wars, and dissentions among powerful tribes and chiefs. Its +interference is generally attended with effect, more particularly if +accompanied by a threat of vengeance from the _purrah_; and a suspension of +hostilities is scrupulously observed, until it is determined who is the +aggressor; while this investigation takes place by the sovereign _purrah_, +as many of the warriors are convoked, as they conceive necessary to enforce +their judgment, which usually consigns the guilty to a pillage of some +days. To execute the decree, they avail themselves of the night to depart +from the place where the sovereign _purrah_ is assembled, previously +disguising their persons with hideous objects, and dividing themselves into +detachments, armed with torches and warlike weapons; they arrive at the +village of the condemned, and proclaim with tremendous yells the decree of +the sovereign _purrah_. The affrighted victims of superstition and +injustice are either murdered or made captives, and no longer form a people +among the tribes. + +The produce arising from this horrid and indiscriminate execution of the +decrees of this tribunal is divided equally between the injured tribe, and +the sovereign _purrah_; the latter share is again subdivided among the +warriors employed in the execution of its diabolical decree, as a +recompense for their zeal, obedience, and promptitude. + +The families of the tribes under the dominion of this infernal confederacy, +when they become objects of suspicion or rivalry, are subjected to +immediate pillage, and if they resist, are dragged into their secret +recesses, where they are condemned, and consigned to oblivion. + +Its supreme authority is more immediately confined to the Sherbro; and the +natives of the Bay of Sierra Leone speak of it with reserve and dread: they +consider the brotherhood as having intercourse with the _bad spirit_, or +devil, and that they are sorcerers, and invulnerable to human power. Of +course the _purrah_ encourages these superstitious prejudices, which +establish their authority and respect, as the members are numerous, and are +known to each other by certain signs and expressions. The Mandingos have +also their sacred woods and mysteries, where, by their delusions and +exorcisms, they prepare their children for circumcision. + +The Soosees, inhabiting the borders of the Rio Pongo, have a species of +_purrah_, which gives its members great consequence among them; but their +ceremonies are kept also with inviolable secrecy, and they are bound by +horrid oaths and incantations. These people seem to delight in +disseminating improbable tales of their institution, and their invention +appears to be exhausted in superstitious legends of its mysteries. + +The Timmanees have an inquisitorial institution called _bunda_, noticed in +page 72, to which women only are subjected. The season of penitence is +superintended by an elderly woman, called _bunda_ woman; and fathers even +consign their wives and daughters to her investigation when they become +objects of suspicion. Here is extracted from them an unreserved confession +of every crime committed by themselves, or to which they are privy in +others. Upon their admission they are besmeared with white clay, which +obliterates every trace of human appearance, and they are solemnly abjured +to make an unequivocal confession; which if not complied with, they are +threatened with death as the inevitable consequence. The general result is +a discovery of fact and falsehood, in proportion as their fears of +punishment are aroused, which the _bunda_ woman makes known to the people +who assemble in the village or town where the _bunda_ is instituted. If she +is satisfied with the confession, the individual is dismissed from the +_bunda_, and, as is noticed in Chapter VII. an act of oblivion is passed +relative to her former conduct; but where the crime of witchcraft is +included, slavery is uniformly the consequence: those accused as partners +of her guilt are obliged to undergo the ordeal by _red water_, redeem +themselves by slaves, or go into slavery themselves. + +When the _bunda_ woman is dissatisfied with the confessions, she makes the +object sit down, and after rubbing poisonous leaves, procured for the +purpose, between her hands, and infusing them in water, she makes her drink +in proportion to its strength. It naturally occasions pain in the bowels, +which is considered as an infallible evidence of guilt. Incantations and +charms are then resorted to by the _bunda_ woman, to ascertain what the +concealed crime is, and after a _decent_ period employed in this +buffoonery, the charges are brought in conformity with the imagination or +malignity of this priestess of mystery and iniquity. + +During the continuance of this engine of avarice, oppression, and fraud in +any town, the chiefs cause their great drum and other instruments of music +to be continually in action, and every appearance of festive hilarity +pervades among the inhabitants, accompanied by the song and the dance. + +Contumacy, or a refusal to confess, is invariably followed by death. + +In short, the bewildered natives feel the effects, and dread the power of +these extraordinary institutions; they know they exist, but their +deliberations and mysteries are impenetrably concealed from them; and the +objects of their vengeance are in total ignorance, until the annihilating +stroke of death terminates their mortal career. + +It is impossible to contemplate the religious institutions, and +superstitious customs of the western nations of Africa, north of the +equator, without closely assimilating them with those of Ethiopia and +Egypt; and from hence to infer that a correspondence has existed between +the eastern and western inhabitants of this great continent. + +SECTION II. + +_Of the_ Termite, Termes, _or_ Bug a Bug, _as it is called by the Natives +upon the Windward Coast of Africa._ + +Among the insects mentioned in page 36, the _termite, termes_, or _bug a +bug_, attracts peculiar notice. The following observations are derived from +the investigations I occasionally made upon the Island of Tasso, attached +to Bance Island, where they abound, and indeed in nearly all the western +countries of Africa. + +The oeconomy of nature, and the wisdom of Providence, are wonderfully +displayed in these little animals; for although they occasion the utmost +devastation to buildings, utensils, and all kinds of household furniture +and merchandize, and indeed every thing except metal and stone, yet they +answer highly important purposes in demolishing the immense quantity of +putrid substances, which load the earth in tropical climates. + +Their astonishing peculiarities cannot fail to excite the notice of an +attentive observer; the sagacity and ingenuity they display in their +buildings, their industry, and the plunder and devastation they commit, is +incredible to those who have not witnessed their communities and empires. +They are divided into innumerable societies, and acknowledge a king and +queen, the former of which I brought to Europe, but the latter was by +accident mislaid at sea. Linnaeus denominates the African _bug a bug, +Termes_, and describes it as the plague of the Indies. Every community, as +I have observed, has a king and queen, and the monarchy, if I may be +allowed the expression, forms three distinct orders of insects, in three +states of existence; of every species there are likewise three orders, +which differ very essentially in the functions they have to perform, and +are in appearance very different. + +In their primitive state, they are perfectly white; they have six little +feet, three on each side, and a small head, in which I could perceive no +eyes, after a minute investigation with a microscope. In this state they +supply the community with provisions from subterraneous cavities, fabricate +their pyramidical buildings, and may with great propriety be called +labourers. + +In a few weeks they destroy the largest trunks of trees, carry away all +descriptions of putrid substances, and particles of vegetable decay, which, +in such a climate as Africa, amply compensates for the ruin which they +otherwise occasion. + +Their buildings are contrived and finished with great ingenuity and +solidity, to a magnitude infinitely beyond the erections of man, when a +comparative dimension of size is considered. + +They are usually termed hills, and are generally in a conical form, from 10 +to 12 feet in perpendicular height, and frequently upwards of 100 feet +square in the base. + +For a considerable period, vegetation is banished from the surface of their +abode, but from the second to the third year, it becomes like the +surrounding soil. The exterior forms a crust, which shelters the interior +from the weather, and the community from the attacks of enemies. The +interior is divided into almost innumerable chambers or apartments, with +amazing regularity and contrivance; in the centre of which is the royal +residence of the king and queen, composed of solid clay, closely compacted, +and distinct from the external habitation, which accommodate their +subjects. It appears that the royal erection is the first which occupies +the attention of the labourers, as it is central in the foundation of the +hill which composes the empire at large. This makes its first appearance +above the surface of the earth in various turrets, in the form of a sugar +loaf, from which they increase their number, widening them from the base; +the middle one is the highest and largest, and they fill up the spaces as +they proceed, until the whole is formed into one. + +This compact construction is admirably adapted to guard against external +violence, and to preserve a genial warmth and moisture to cherish the +hatching of the eggs, and the young. + +The queen is by far the largest, and has an unwieldy body, of enormous +dimensions, when compared with her subjects; so also is the king, but +inferior in size to the queen. + +The royal residence is a full constructed hill, surrounded by an +innumerable number of others, differing in shape and dimensions, arched in +various forms, circular, and elliptical, which communicate by passages, +occupied by guards and attendants, and surrounded by nurseries and +magazines. But when the community is in an infant state, these are +contiguous to the royal residence; and in proportion as the size of the +queen increases, her chamber is enlarged, and her attendants and apartments +multiplied. + +The construction of the outward apartments which surround the central royal +residence, that of the _common father_ and _mother_ of the community, form +an intricate labyrinth of nurseries and magazines, separated by chambers +and galleries, communicating with each other, and continuing towards the +surface of the pyramid; and being arched, they support each other, and are +uniformly larger towards the centre. + +The second order of _termes_ are like the first, blind and active, but they +undergo a change of form, approaching to the perfect state; they are much +larger, and increase from about a quarter of an inch in length to half an +inch, and greater in bulk; and what is still more remarkable, the mouth is +armed with sharp claws, and the head is disproportionably enlarged. They +may properly be called the nurses and warriors of the kingdom; they urge +their fellow subjects in the _first_ state to labour, they inspect the +construction of the interior apartments, repel all attacks from enemies, +and devour them with fury; and may be considered as the standing army of +the state. + +In the third and last stage, they are winged; their bodies then measure +about 7/8ths of an inch in length, furnished with four brownish transparent +wings, rather large; they have eyes also of a disproportionate size, +visible to the observer. When they make their appearance in this state, it +is indicative of the approach of the rainy season. At this period they +procreate their species. + +They seldom wait before they take wing for a second or third shower; and +should the rain happen in the night, the quantities of them which are found +the next morning upon the surface of the earth, and on the waters, more +particularly upon the latter, are astonishing. The term of existence at +this stage is extremely short, and frequently on the following morning +after they have taken flight, they are surprisingly weakened and decreased; +at the utmost I do not think they live more than two days; and these +insects, so industrious, courageous, and destructive in the two first +periods of their existence, become the prey of innumerable enemies. +Indolent, and incapable of resisting the smallest insects, they are hunted +by various species from place to place, and not one pair in millions get +into a place of safety, to fulfil the laws of nature and propagation. + +Their wings in a short time fall from them, and the ponds and brooks are +covered with their carcases. The Negroes in many places collect them in +their calabashes, dry them, and fry them on a slow fire, which they +consider as a delicious morsel. + +A few, however, escape the general dissolution, several pairs of them are +found by those of the first genus, as they are continually moving over the +surface of the earth, and are carried by them to found new kingdoms and +communities. The royal mansion is then erected, as before described, their +wings fall off, and they pass the remainder of their existence in indolence +and luxury, and in the propagation of their species. Their dimensions now +undergo a monstrous change, more especially the queen; her abdomen augments +by degrees, and increases to a prodigious size, when compared with her two +first stages of existence; and the king, although greatly augmented, yet is +diminutive compared to his enormous spouse, who sometimes exceeds three +inches in length. She is in this state extremely prolific, and the matrix +is almost perpetually yielding eggs, which are taken from her by her +attendants, and are carried into the adjoining nurseries. + +The foregoing is a very imperfect delineation of this wonderful insect, +which requires the minutest description by an experienced and scientific +naturalist to illustrate clearly; and there are many secrets in the natural +history of this little animal that would amply reward his investigation +upon the different circumstances attending its existence. + +Those that build in trees, or erect pyramids, have a strong resemblance to +each other, and pass through the same stages to the winged state, but they +are not of so large a size as the foregoing; and it is a very singular +circumstance, that of all these different species, neither the labourers +nor soldiers expose themselves to the open air, but travel in subterraneous +vaults, unless when they are obstructed and impelled by necessity; and when +their covered ways and habitations are destroyed, it is wonderful how +quickly they will rebuild them. I have frequently destroyed them in the +evening, and have found them re-erected on the following morning. + +When a pair, in the perfect state, is rescued from the general devastation +which attends these little animals, they are by the two first species +elected king and queen, and are inclosed in a chamber, as before described, +around which a new empire is formed, and pyramids are erected. + +That species which builds in trees, frequently establish their abode in +houses also, which in time they will entirely destroy, if not extirpated. +The large kind, however, are more destructive, and more difficult to guard +against, as their approaches are principally made under-ground, and below +the foundation; they rise either in the floors, or under the posts, which +in African buildings support the roof, and as they proceed, they form +cavities towards the top, similar to the holes bored in the bottom of ships +by the worms, which appear to answer the same purpose in water as the +_termites_ do upon land. How convincing is this fact of the infinitely wise +arrangements of the Creator, who has united, in the whole system of +creation, one uniform conformation of order and utility; for although the +_vermis_, or worm, which is so pernicious to shipping in tropical climates, +and the _termite_, possess so many destructive qualities, yet these very +properties serve the most important purposes and designs. Scarcely any +thing perishable on land escapes the _termite_, or in water, the worm; and +it is from thence evident, that these animals are designed by nature to rid +both of incumbrances, which in tropical climates would be attended with +putrefaction and disease. + +The first object which strikes the attention, and excites admiration, upon +opening and investigating the hills of the _termites_, is, the conduct of +the armed species, or soldiers; when a breach is made by a pick-axe, or +hoe, they instantaneously sally forth in small parties round the breach, as +if to oppose the enemy, or to examine the nature of the attack, and the +numbers increase to an incredible degree as long as it continues; parties +frequently return as if to give the alarm to the whole community, and then +rush forth again with astonishing fury. At this period they are replete +with rage, and make a noise which is very distinguishable, and is similar +to the ticking of a watch; if any object now comes in contact with them, +they seize it, and never quit their hold until they are literally torn in +pieces. When the violence against their habitation ceases, they retire into +their nests, as if nothing had happened, and the observer will +instantaneously perceive the labourers at work, with a burthen of mortar in +their mouths, which they stick upon the breach with wonderful facility and +quickness; and although thousands and millions are employed, yet they never +embarrass the proceedings of each other, but gradually fill up the chasm. +While the labourers are thus employed, the greatest part of the soldiers +retire, a few only being discernible, who evidently act as overseers, and +at intervals of about a minute, make the vibrating noise before described, +which is immediately answered by an universal hiss from the labourers, and +at this signal they redouble their exertions with encreased activity. + +In minutely examining these hills, great obstacles present themselves to +the observer; the apartments and nurseries which surround the royal +habitation, and the whole internal fabric, are formed of moist brittle +clay, and are so closely connected, that they can only be examined +separately, for having a geometrical dependance upon each other, the +demolition of one pulls down more; patience is therefore exhausted in the +investigation, and it is impossible to proceed without interruption; for +while the soldiers are employed in defending the breach, the labourers are +engaged in barricading the different galleries and passages towards the +royal chamber. In one apartment which I dug out from a hill, I was forcibly +struck with their attachment and allegiance to their sovereigns; and as it +is capacious enough to hold a great number of attendants, of which it has a +constant supply, I had a fair opportunity offered for experiment, I secured +it in a small box; and these faithful creatures never abandoned their +charge; they were continually running about their king and queen, stopping +at every circuit, as if to administer to them, and to receive their +commands. + +Upon exposing their different avenues and chambers for a night only, before +the next morning, provided the king and queen are preserved, and their +apartments remain, it will be found that they are all shut up with a thin +covering of clay, and every interstice in the ruins, through which either +cold or wet could communicate, filled up, which is continued with +unremitting industry until the building is restored to its pristine state. + +Besides these species, there are also the _marching termites_, of an +encreased size, who make excursions in large bodies, and spread devastation +in their way; but as my means of observation upon them was only accidental, +it will be intruding an imperfect description to notice them at all; but if +we form a conclusion from the immense number of _termites_ which everywhere +abound in Africa, we shall be tempted to believe that their procreation is +endless and unceasing. + +When the papers came to hand which contained the substance of these remarks +upon this extraordinary insect, I did not intend to annex them to the +Observations on the Windward Coast of Africa, nor am I without some doubt +as to the propriety of so doing; the observation of the learned +_naturalist_ only can ascertain the economy of the _termite_, or _bug a +bug_, and I have therefore to apologize for obtruding these imperfect and +general remarks. + +SECTION III. + +_Of the Cameleon_. + +The cameleon is a native of the torrid zone, and is a genus of the lizard: +the faculty of assuming the colour of every object it approaches is +ascribed to it, and other singular properties; but there are many rare +phoenomena not so well understood, such as its absorption and expulsion of +air at pleasure, its property of living a considerable time without any +kind of nourishment, and its extraordinary visual advantages, which are +perhaps not to be found in any other of the wonderful works of the +creation. + +I have made various experiments to ascertain these extraordinary properties +in this little animal; and I brought home one in a preserved state. + +The first object which struck my attention, was the variation of colour; +and I am persuaded that it does not assume these from the surrounding +objects, but that they proceed from internal sensations of pain, or +otherwise. + +From the moment that the liberty of my captive was infringed upon, or when +interrupted in its pursuits, it became less sensible of external objects, +the vivacity of its colour, and the plumpness of its form underwent a +visible change. Its natural colour is a beautiful green; and when in a +state of liberty it is to be found in the grass, or lodged on the branches +of some tree, ornamented with the gayest foilage; and it would appear that +its liberty, and the privilege of living in the grass, are indispensible +towards the preservation of its qualities. The colour of its skin, in a +perfect state of health, is scarcely discernible from the trees and grass, +in which it delights to conceal itself, and is not to be discovered at all +without a very minute scrutiny. It remains immoveable for a length of time, +and its motions are all cautious and slow, continuing to loll out its +tongue, which is long and glutinous, in order to secure the little insects +that are necessary to its nourishment; and I doubt not but it has an +attractive influence over its prey, for I have observed them continually +floating around the cameleon, when scarcely discernible in any other space. +When the tongue is covered with a sufficient quantity it draws it in +instantaneously, and by incessantly repeating the operation, all the +insects within its reach are taken in the snare. + +That its health and existence depend upon being in the grass, I am +persuaded, from the change occasioned by placing it in gravel or sand, when +it immediately assumes a yellow tinge, its form is reduced considerably, +and the air expelled, with which the body of this animal is inflated, so as +visibly to reduce the size. If they are irritated in this situation, they +expell the air so strong as even to be heard, gradually decreasing in size, +and becoming more dull in colour, until at length they are almost black; +but upon being carried into the grass, or placed on the branches of a tree, +they quickly assume their wonted solidity and appearance. + +The victims of my observation I have frequently wrapped in cloth of various +colours, and have left them for a considerable time, but when I visited +them I did not find that they partook of any of the colours, but uniformly +were of a tarnished yellow, or greyish black, the colours they always +assume when in a state of suffering and distress, and I never could succeed +in making them take any other when in a situation of constraint. The skin +of the cameleon is of a very soft and delicate texture, and appears to the +observer similar to a shagreen skin, elastic and pliable; and it may be +owing to this extraordinary construction that it changes its colours and +size with that facility which astonishes us; but what may be considered as +a more wonderful faculty is, its expanding and contracting itself at +pleasure, and, as it were, retaining the fluid in an uniform manner, when +in health, but exhaling it when in a state of suffering, so as to reduce +its dimensions to a more contracted size. Its peculiar organization is +such, that the atmospheric air which it inhales so generally throughout +every part of its body, distends and projects even its eyes and +extremities. I have frequently seen it after many days fasting become +suddenly plump, and continue so for a fortnight, when immediately it became +nothing but a skeleton of skin and bone. + +The tenuity of its body is at these seasons astonishing, the spine of its +back becomes pointed, the flesh of its sides adhere to each other, and +apparently form one united subsance, when it will, in a few hours, at +pleasure, resume its rotund state; and this appears to me to be a most +extraordinary circumstance in the construction of this animal, which +invites the minutest research of the naturalist. + +To convince myself how far the assertion might be admitted, that the +cameleon can exist upon air, I have placed them in a cage, so constructed, +as to exclude any thing else, even the minutest insect; when I have visited +my captives, they have opened their mouths and expelled the air towards me +so as to be felt and heard. In the first stage of their privation and +imprisonment, which has continued for more than a month, I have found them +in continual motion around their prison, but afterwards their excursions +became more circumscribed, and they have sunk to the bottom, when their +powers of distension and contraction became languid and decreased, and were +never again capable of performing their accustomed transformation. The one +which I brought to England preserved in spirits, after undergoing upwards +of two months of famine, when I carried it among the grass, or placed it in +the thick foliage of a tree, in little more than a week regained its green +colour, and power of expansion; but not contented with my experiment, and +determined to ascertain it to the utmost, I redoubled my precautions to +exclude every thing but air, and my devoted victim was doomed to another +series of trial, and continued to exist upwards of a month, when it fell a +sacrifice to my curiosity. + +The eyes of the cameleon may also be considered a remarkable singularity; +they are covered with a thin membrane, which nature has given it to supply +the want of eye-lids, and this membrane is sunk in the centre by a +lengthened hole, which forms an orifice, bordered by a shining circle. This +covering follows all the motions of the eye so perfectly, that they appear +to be one and the same; and the aperture, or lengthened hole, is always +central to the pupil, the eyes moving in every direction, independant of +each other; one eye will be in motion while the other is fixed, one looking +behind while the other is looking before, and another directed above while +its companion is fixed on the earth, so that its eyes move in every +possible direction, independant of each other, without moving the head, +which is closely compacted with the shoulders. + +By these quick evolutions its personal safety is guarded, and it perceives +with quickness the insects and flies, which it is always entrapping by its +glutinous tongue. + +Without doubt, this species of lizard possesses peculiarities well worthy +the attention of naturalists, who only can define them; what I have said I +have observed in my leisure moments, and must be considered as a very +imperfect detail of its natural history. + +SECTION IV. + +_Of the Interment of the Dead._ + +The ceremony of burial upon the Windward Coast of Africa is conducted with +great singularity, solemnity, and extravagant circumstances of condolence. + +The body of the deceased is wrapped up in a cloth, closely sewed around it, +and the head is covered with a white cap of cotton, which is the colour +universally adopted in mourning. The relatives of the deceased bedaub +themselves from head to foot with white clay, upon which they form the most +disgusting figures, while scarcely a leg or an arm exhibits the same +feature. I have even seen serpents and other frightful animals delineated +with great accuracy on many parts of the body, which gives them a most +hideous appearance during the season of mourning. + +When the corps has been washed, and put into a white cloth of cotton, of +the manufacture of the country, the whole is inclosed in a mat, and laid +out in state. + +The corps is placed over the grave upon four sticks across, and after one +of the nearest relatives has collected all the finery with which the +deceased was accustomed to decorate himself, and that also which remains +among his family, he asks him, with expressions of sorrow, if he wants such +and such an article for his comfort in the other world, in which he is +accompanied by the remainder of his family and friends, who join in _making +cry,_ or more property speaking, in dancing and rejoicing. The following +night the dance and song is continued with demonstrations of mirth and +glee, and are kept up every successive night during that moon; and if the +deceased has been of consequence in his tribe, these extravagant acts of +lamentation continue for months together. + +_On the Amusements, Musical Instruments, &c. of the Africans._ + +Upon all occasions of mirth or sorrow, the dance is uniformly introduced, +with monotonous songs, sometimes tender and agreeable, at other times +savage and ferocious, but always accompanied by a slow movement; and it may +with propriety be said, that all the nights in Africa are spent in dancing; +for after the setting of the sun, every village resounds with songs, and +music; and I have often listened to them with attention and pleasure, +during the tranquil evenings of the dry season. + +Villages a league distant from each other frequently perform the same song, +and alternately change it, for hours together. While this harmonic +correspondence continues, and the inhabitants of the neighbouring villages +chaunt their couplets, the youth of both sexes listen with the greatest +attention and pleasure. + +Among the several kinds of instruments of music which accompany the +ceremonies of mourning or mirth among the Africans, the drum is the +principal. It is made from a hard thin wood, about three feet long, which +is covered with a skin distended to the utmost. They strike it with the +fingers of the right hand collected together, which serves to beat time in +all their dances. Among the Foulahs and Soosees they have a kind of flute, +made of a hard reed, which produces sounds both unmusical and harsh: but +all the Africans of the Windward district are the most barbarous musicians +that can be conceived. + +They have also a kind of guitar, formed from the calabash, which they call +_kilara_. Some of these are of an enormous size, and the musician performs +upon it by placing himself on the ground, and putting the _kilara_ between +his thighs; he performs on it with both his hands, in a manner similar to +the playing on the harp in this country. + +They have another instrument of a very complicated construction, about two +feet deep, four feet long, and eighteen inches wide, which they call +_balafau_. It is constructed by parallel intervals, covered with bits of +hard polished wood, so as to give each a different tone, and are connected +by cords of catgut fastened at each extremity of the instrument. The +musician strikes these pieces of wood with knobbed sticks covered with +skin, which produces a most detestable jargon of confused noise. + +Jugglers and buffoons are very common, and are the constant attendants of +the courts of Negro kings and princes, upon whom they lavish the most +extravagant eulogiums, and abject flattery. These jesters are also the +panders of concupiscense; they are astrologers, musicians, and poets, and +are well received every where, and live by public contribution. + +SECTION V. + +_Concluding Observations._ + +It has already been observed that cotton and indigo are indigenous to the +Windward Coast of Africa. Tobacco grows in every direction, likewise cocoa, +coffee, and aromatic plants would no doubt succeed by cultivation. A trade +in raw hides might be carried on to a great extent; and the articles of +wax, gold, ivory, emery, dyes, &c. might be greatly increased. Substances +for making soap are to be found in great abundance; cattle, poultry, +different kinds of game, fish, and various animals, fruits, and roots, +abound, affording a great variety of the necessaries and luxuries of life: +and European art and industry are only wanting to introduce the extensive +culture of the sugar cane. The warmth and nature of the climate are +peculiarly adapted to the maturing this plant, and there are many +situations from Cape Verde to Cape Palmas, where this valuable production +might undoubtedly be raised to great amount and perfection. + +In addition to the woods I have already named, there are many others for +building, viz. _todso, worsmore,_ and a fine yellow wood, called +_barzilla_, the _black_ and the _white mangrove_, boxwood of a superior +quality, _conta_, a remarkable fine wood for building, and various kinds of +mahogany, of a beautiful colour, and large dimensions. + +It has also been observed in the previous section, that one of the musical +instruments used by the Africans of the Windward Coast, named by them +_kilara_, is formed from the calabash, a pumpkin which grows from the size +of a goblet to that of a moderate sized tub, and serves every purpose +almost of household utensils. + +They divide this pumpkin into two hemispheres, with the utmost accuracy, +and it is excavated by pouring boiling water inside, to soften the pulp. +The inside is cleaned with great neatness, and they execute upon the +outside various designs and paintings, both fanciful and eccentric, such as +birds, beasts, serpents, alligators, &c. + +In fine, the objects of commerce and enjoyment in this country are, +comparatively speaking, inexhaustible; and this is a part of the world +which England has hitherto strangely neglected, because its mysteries are +unknown. It only requires the happy influence of civilization, agriculture, +and natural commerce, to surprize and enrich those, who humanely and wisely +interfere to procure these blessings to its inhabitants. + +The system of establishment to attain these important ends to our commerce, +and to the bewildered African, should be skilfully planned, and wisely +adapted to the _present condition_ of the country, for the _hasty +conclusion of the abolition of the slave trade never can, in its present +state, meet the views and objects of rational humanity_. Is the United +Kingdom, at this crisis, when the enormous power of our adversary has shut +the door of commerce against us in every direction where his influence and +dictates command, to abandon Africa, so abundant and versatile in its +natural productions and resources, to contingencies, and to the grasp of +other nations? Forbid it, humanity, and forbid it, wise policy! Let civil +laws, religion, and morality, exercise their influence in behalf of the +Negro race, whom barbarism has subjected to our dominion, and let the +beneficence and wisdom of Government devise a system of agriculture and +commercial operation, upon the maritime situations of Africa, as the most +effectual means to freedom of intercourse with its interior. + +The operations of impracticable theories and misguided zeal have +accomplished an unqualified abolition of the slave trade, which I am +persuaded will be highly injurious to the commercial and manufacturing +interests of our country; and is a measure which humanity will have deeply +to deplore, while in its tendency it is pernicious to the African, and +auspicious to the views of France. + +Without doubt the ability and energies of the _present administration_ will +be directed to avert these calamities; and amidst the _important +diliberations_ which now occupy their attention, the condition of Africa, +the wealth derivable from so important a quarter of the earth, and the +relations involved with it, will not be overlooked by them. + + + A VOCABULARY + OF THE + LANGUAGE OF THE PRINCIPAL NATIONS OF THE + WINDWARD COAST OF AFRICA. + + + + +|ENGLISH |JOLLIFF |SOOSEE |TIMMANEE +|------------|-------------------|--------------------|---------------- +|One |Ben |Kiring |Pen +|Two |Yar |Faring |Prung +|Three |Niet |Shooking |Tisas +|Four |Nianett |Nari |Panlee +|Five |Gurum |Shooli |Tomat +|Six |Gurum ben |Shinie |Rokin +|Seven |Gurum yar |Shulifiring |Dayring +|Eight |Gurum Niet |Shulimashukung |Daysas +|Nine |Gurum Niant |Shulimang |Daynga +|Ten |Fue |Fooang |Tofot +|Twenty |Nill |Mahwinia |Tofot Marung +|Thirty |Fanever |Tongashukung |Tofot Masas +|Forty |Nianett Fue |Tonganani |Tofot Manlu +|Fifty |Guaum Fue |Tongashulang |Tofot Tomat +|Sixty |Gurum ben Fue |Tongashini |Tofot Rokin +|Seventy |Gurum yar Fue |Tongashulifiring |Tofot Dayring +|Eighty |Gurum Niet Fue |Tongashulimashakung |Tofot Daysas +|Ninety |Gurum Nianet Fue |Tongashulimanane |Tofot Danygah +|One Hundred |Temer |Kime |Tofot Tofot +|I | |Emtang |Eto or Munga +|Thou | |Etang |Moota or Moonga +|He | |Atang |Otto or Ken +|It | |Atang |Ree +|We | |Mackutang |Sitta or Shang +|Ye | |Wotang |Angsha +|They | |Etang |Angna +|God |Tallah | | +|The Devil |Ghine | | +|Heaven |Assaman | | + + + + + +|ENGLISH |JOLLIFF |SOOSEE |MANDINGO +|------------|--------------------|---------------|------------------ +|The Sun |Burham Safara |Shuge |Teelee +|The Moon |Burham Safara Lion |Kige |Koro +|Gold |Ourous | |Sanoo +|Father |Bail |Taffe |Fa +|My Father |Samma Bail | | +|Mother |De |Inga |Ba +|My Mother |Samma De | | +|Man |Gour | |Mo or Fato +|Woman |Diguen | |Moosea +|Brother |Rak Gour |Tarakunjia |Ba Ding Kea +|My Brother |Samma Rak Gour | | +|Sister |Rak Diguen |Magine |Ba Ding Moosea +|My Sister |Samma Rak Diguen | | +|Head |Bop |Hung Hungji |Roon +|My Head |Samma Bop | | +|Tongue |Lamin |Ning Ningje |Ning +|Mouth |Guemin |De |Da +|Nose |Bauane |Nieue |Nung +|Bread |Bourou | |Munko +|Water |Dock | |Gee +|Teeth |Guene | | +|Bowels |Bouthet | | +|Belly |Birr | |Kono +|Fingers |Baram | |Boalla Ronding +|Arm |Lokoo | |Boalla Same for hand. +|Hair |Cayor | | +|The Beard |Jekim |Habe de Habe |Bora +|White |Toulha e |Fihe |Qui +|Black |Jolof |Foro |Fing +|Good |Bachna |Fang |Bettie +|Bad |Bahout |Niaake |Jox + + + + + +|ENGLISH |SOOSEE +|-------------------------------------|------------------------ +|Elephant |Siti +|Camelion |Kolungji +|Horse |Shuoe +|Cow |Ninkgegine +|Goat |Shee +|Sheep |Juke +|Leopard |Shuko she +|Alligator |Shonge +|Parrot |Kalle +|Shark |Sark +|Honey |Kume +|White ant, termite, &c. |Bugabuge +|(or Bug a bug) | +|The Sea |Baa +|Earth |Bohe +|Knife |Fine +|Shirt |Doma +|Trowsers |Wangtanji +|Brass pan |Tang kue +|House |Bankhi +|Door |De nade +|Day |Hi +|Night |Que +|Health |Maie langfe +|Sickness |Fura +|Pain |Whondi, Whona fe +|Love |Whuli +|Hatred |Niaahu +|Road |Kira +|Idle |Kobi +|Hot |Furi, furihe +|Cold |Himbeli +|What are you doing? |Emung she ra falama? +|Tornado |Tuliakbegle +|Which way are you going? |Esigama mung kirara +|To trade |Sera Shofe +|Make haste |Ara bafe mafuri +|To Kill |Fuka fe +|To Quarrel |Geri shofe +|To Sing |Shige shafe +|To beat the drum |Fare mokafe +|Have you done? |Ebanta gei? +|Are you afraid? |Egahama? +|He is not yet gone |A mu siga sending +|Stand still |Tife ira hara +|Run |Gee fe +|Leap, or Jump |Tubang fe +|Have you slept well? |Eheo keefang? +|Do you understand Soosee? |Esusee whi mema? +|I am hungry |Kaame em shukuma +|Eat |Dong +|Let us go |Woem hasiga +|Will you go with me? |Esigama em fokhera +|I have no money |Nafuli muna embe +|How much do you want? |E' wama ierekong +|Sit down |Dokha +|How do you do |E'mung kee? +|Very well |Em melang hekeefang +|Give me some rice? |Malungdundundifeemma +|Here |Be +|What is your name? |Ehili mungkee? +|I love you |Efanghe emma +|If you want rice I will give you some|Ha ewama malunghong eminda fuma ema +|Let us go together. |Meekufiring ha siga + + + + + +|ENGLISH |JOLLIFF +|----------------------------|----------------------- +|Goat |Phas +|Sheep |Zedre +|Wolf |Bouki +|Elephant |Guie +|Ox |Nack +|Fish |Guienn +|Horse |Ghenapp +|Butter |Dion +|Milk |San +|Tiger |Shagle +|Iron |Vina +|Millet |Doughoul +|Quiver |Smagalla +|To dance |Faik +|To sing |Ouhai +|To-day |Thei +|To-morrow |Elleck, or Mek +|Yesterday |Demb +|A tree |Garallun +|To drink |Nan +|To eat |Leck ou leckamm +|She is remarkably handsome |Sama rafitnaloll +|Good day |Dhiarakio +|Good day Sir |Dhiarakio-Samba +|Good night |Fhanandiam +|Come here? |Kahihfie +|Yes |Ouaa +|No |Dhiett +|How do you do? |Dhya mesa? +|Very well |Dhya medal +|Buy |Ghuyende +|Sell |Ghuyal +|Take |Diapol +|I will |Benguena +|I thank you |Guerum nala +|A bar of Iron |Baravin +|What did you say? |Loung a houche +|Can you speak Joliff? |Digenga Jolliff +|How much did that cost? |Niatar ladiar? +|Give me |Maniman +|I love you from my heart |Sepenata tie somo koll + + + + + +|ENGLISH |TEMMANEE |BULLOM +|-----------------------|------------------------|---------------- +|How do you do? |Currea |Lemmoo +|I return you service, |Ba |Ba +|or salute | | +|Are you well? |Too pay |Appay wa? +|Very well |Tai o tai |Pay chin lin +|What is your name? |Gnay see mooa? |Illil e moa? +|Give me a little rice |Song mee pilla pittun |Knamee opillay +| | |otayk +|Yes |A |A +|No |Deh |Be +|Is your father at home?|Pa ka moo oya roshaytee?|Appa moway lore +| | |ko killayee +|He is |Oeeree |Way lorre +|What do you want? |Ko nyaymaee? |Yeng yayma? +|Why do you do so? |Ko sum kingyotteeay |Yaywum layngalla +|I beg your pardon |A marree moo |Lum marra mo + + + + + +|ENGLISH |TEMMANEK |BULLOM +|--------------------|--------------------|----------------------- +|I love you |Ee boter moo |A marra mo +|Let me alone |Tuoy mee |Y'nfolmee +|Let me go |Teer amee |Y'mmelmee +|Sit down |Yeera |Y'nchal +|I am hungry |Durabang mee |Nrik mi a me +|Shut the door |Kanta kayraree |Ingkunta fong folootay +|Will you go with me?|Yintoo ko pey a mee?|Mo mee ko day ree +|Where are you going?|Ray mo koay. |Lomo koa +|Here |Unno |Kakee or ha +|Forward |Kihdee |Ebol +|Backward |Rarung |Wayling +|To-day |Taynung |Eenang +|To-morrow |Aneenang |Beng +|Sometimes |Olokko ollon |Lokko poom +|And |Ray |Na +|Good bye |Mang peearo |Heepeearo + + + +** The foregoing Vocabulary, and imperfect number of words, may serve to +give some idea of a part of the languages on the Windward Coast of Africa. +From those accidents to which the traveller is continually exposed, I have +unfortunately lost what I am persuaded was a very accurate vocabulary of +the Jolliff, Foulah, Maudingo, Soosee, Bullom, and Temmanee tongues, which +I had arranged under the correction of a very intelligent trader long +resident upon the Windward Coast. Owing to this misfortune I have been +obliged to refer to scattered memoranda only, which I know to correspond +correctly with the document I allude to. As the Foulah and Mandingo nations +are of most consequence in attempts at civilization, I have to regret +exceedingly that I have not been able to give the languages of those +nations more at large. + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Observations Upon The Windward Coast +Of Africa, by Joseph Corry + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE WINDWARD COAST OF AFRICA *** + +***** This file should be named 12539.txt or 12539.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/1/2/5/3/12539/ + +Produced by Carlo Traverso, Willy De la Court and Distributed +Proofreaders Europe, http://dp.rastko.net. This file was produced +from images generously made available by the Bibliotheque nationale +de France (BnF/Gallica) at http://gallica.bnf.fr. 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