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diff --git a/old/12528.txt b/old/12528.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..bc23629 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/12528.txt @@ -0,0 +1,12478 @@ +The Project Gutenberg eBook, A Voyage Round the World, Vol. I (of ?), by +James Holman + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + +Title: A Voyage Round the World, Vol. I (of ?) + +Author: James Holman + +Release Date: June 5, 2004 [eBook #12528] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: US-ASCII + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD, VOL. I +(OF ?)*** + + +E-text prepared by the Project Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading +Team from images provided by the Million Book Project + + + +Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this + file which includes the original illustrations. + See 12528-h.htm or 12528-h.zip: + (https://www.gutenberg.org/1/2/5/2/12528/12528-h/12528-h.htm) + or + (https://www.gutenberg.org/1/2/5/2/12528/12528-h.zip) + + + + + +VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD, VOLUME I + +Including Travels in Africa, Asia, Australasia, America, etc. etc. +from MDCCCXXVII to MDCCCXXXII + + +BY + +JAMES HOLMAN, R.N. F.R.S. ETC. ETC. + +1834 + + + + + + + "Man loves knowledge: and the beams of truth + More welcome touch his understanding's eye, + Than all the blandishments of sounds his ear, + Than all of taste his tongue." + + --Akenside. + + + + + +ADVERTISEMENT. + +It is necessary to observe that this Work is designed to extend to 4 +vols., to be published in regular succession; each Volume to embrace a +distinct portion of the whole, and to be complete in itself. The entire +publication will form a consecutive series of the Author's Voyages and +Travels Round the World. + +The present Volume contains:--Madeira--Teneriffe--St. Jago--Sierra +Leone--Cape Coast--Accra--Fernando Po--Bonny, Calabar, and other Rivers +in the Bight of Biafra--Prince's Island--Ascension--Rio Janeiro--and +Journey to the Gold Mines. + + + + +[Note: The beginning of this dedication was missing from the text.] + +...that your Majesty may long be spared to a nation that is so sensible +of the influence of your Majesty's exalted character. + +With the most profound feelings of gratitude and devotion, + +I have the honor to subscribe myself, + +Your Majesty's Most faithful Servant, + +JAMES HOLMAN. + + + + +CONTENTS OF VOL. I. + + +CHAP. I. + +Passion for Travelling--Author's peculiar Situation--Motives for going +Abroad--Resources for the Blind--Embark in the Eden, Capt. Owen, for +Sierra Leone--Lord High Admiral at Plymouth--Cape Finisterre--Arrival +at Madeira--Town of Funchal--Wines of Madeira--Cultivation of the +Grape--Table of Exports--Seizure of Gin--Fruits and Vegetables--Climate +--Coffee, Tea, and Sugar Cultivation--Palanquin Travelling--Departure +from Madeira + + +CHAP. II. + +Teneriffe--Town of Santa Cruz--Female Costume--Incident at a Ball--Bad +Roads--Climate--Productions--Population of the Canary Islands--Imports +and Exports--Various Qualities of the Wines--Fishery--Leave Santa +Cruz--Crossing the Tropic of Cancer--Shaving and Ducking--General +Remarks--Make St. Jago--Anchor at Porto Praya--Sickly Season--Death of +the Consul and his Wife--Consul's Sister--Governor's Garden and +Watering-place--Population of the Island--Produce--The Orchilla Weed, +its growth, uses, and varieties--Cause of Fever--Departure for Sierra +Leone + + +CHAP. III. + +Arrival at Sierra Leone--Mr. Lewis--Black Washerwomen.--Visitors on +board--Capture of Leopards--Mortality--Funeral of Mr. Lewis--Education +of Native Children--Regimental Mess--Curious Trials at a Quarter +Sessions--Depredations of the Kroomen--Causes of Unhealthiness--The +Boollam Territory--Lieutenant George Maclean's Mission--Election +of a King--Regent's Speech--Macaulay Wilson--Ceremonies of the +Coronation--Character of the Boollams--Christian and Mahommedan +Missionaries--Aspect of the Country--Cession of Boollam to Great +Britain--Extraordinary Trial for Crim. Con.--News of the Death of Mr. +Canning + + +CHAP. IV. + +Auction at Sierra Leone--Timber Establishments in the River--Tombo, +Bance and Tasso Islands--Explosion of a Vessel at Sea--Liberated +Africans--Black Ostlers--Horses Imported--Slave Vessel--Colonial Steam +Vessel--Road and Street Repairs--Continued Rains--Suggestion for +preserving the Health of European Seamen--General Views of the +Colony--Population--Parishes--Supply of Provisions--Description +of Freetown--Curious Letter from Black Labourers--Original +Settlers--Present Inhabitants--Trade with the Interior--Strange Customs +of Native Merchants--Anecdote of Sailors--Injurious Example of the +Royal African Corps--Vaccination of Natives--Medical Opinion--Departure +from Sierra Leone + + +CHAP. V. + +Cape St. Ann--Dangerous Shoals--Old Sailors--Liberia--Origin and +History of the Colony--Failure at Sherbro Island--Experiment at +Liberia--Difficulties Encountered by the Settlers--Differences with +the Natives--Final Adjustment--Improving State of the Colony--Laws and +Morals--Remarks on Colonization + + +CHAP. VI. + +The Kroo Country--Religion of the Kroo and Fish Men--Emigration of the +Natives--Sketch of their habits and customs--Purchase of Wives--The +Krooman's _ne plus ultra_--Migratory propensities--Rogueries +exposed--Adoption of English Names--Cape Palmas--Dexterity of the +Fishmen--Fish towns--The Fetish--Arrival at Cape Coast--Land with +the Governor--Captain Hutchison--Cape Coast mode of taking an airing-- +Ashantee Chiefs--Diurnal occupations--School for Native Girls-- +Domestication of Females--Colonel Lumley--Captain Ricketts--Neglect of +Portuguese Fortresses--A native Doctor + + +CHAP. VII. + +Recollections of the Ashantee War--Battle of Essamacow--Accession of +Osay Aquatoo to the Throne--Battle of Affatoo--Investment of Cape +Coast--Flight of the Ashantees--Martial Law proclaimed--Battle of +Dodowah--Ashantee Mode of Fighting--Death of Captain Hutchison + + +CHAP. VIII. + +Embarkation--Departure for Accra--Land Route--Accra Roads--Visit to +Danish Accra--Dilapidations of the Fortresses at Dutch and English +Accra--Captive Queen--Mr. Thomas Park--Cause of his Death unknown-- +Departure for Fernando Po--First view of the Island--Anchor in +Maidstone Bay--Early History of the Settlement--Capt. Owen's +Expedition--Visited by the Inhabitants--Site for the Settlement +determined--Author's Mission to the King of Baracouta--Visit of the +King--Native Costume--Ecstacy of the Natives--Distribution of +Presents--Second Visit to the King--His Majesty's evasive Conduct-- +Renewed Interviews--A Native Thief--Intended Punishment--Cut-throat, +a Native Chief--Visit to King-Cove--Purchase of Land + + +CHAP. IX. + +Native Simplicity--Resources of the Blind--Royal Village--Gathering +of Natives--Native Priests--Royal Feast--Inhospitable Treatment-- +Uncomfortable Quarters--Vocabulary of the Native Language--Beauty of +the Female Character--Women of Fernando Po--Anecdotes--Aspect of the +Country--Productions--Preparations for the Settlement--Discovery of +a Theft--Mimic War Customs--Native Chiefs--Female on Board--Monkey for +Dinner--Flogging a Prisoner--Accident to a Sailor--A Voyage of Survey +round the Island--River named after the Author--Geographical and +Meteorological Observations--Insubordination--A Man Overboard--Deserter +taken--Death of the Interpreter--Method of Fishing--Visitors from St. +Thomas--Ceremony of taking Possession of Fernando Po--Interview with +a Native Chief--Celebration Dinner--Indirect Roguery--Chief and his +Wife--Hospital near Point William--The Guana--Mistake at Sea-- +Suggestions on the Slave-Trade--Fishing Stakes--Schooner on a Mudflat + + +CHAP. X. + +Slave Canoe--Duke's Pilot--Old Calabar Town--Consternation on Shore, +and disappearance of the Slave Vessels--Fruitless Pursuit of the +Slavers--Eyo Eyo, King Eyo's Brother--Old Calabar Festivals--Attempted +Assassination, and Duke Ephraim's Dilemma--Obesity of the King's +Wives--Ordeal for Regal Honours--Duke's English House--Coasting Voyage +to the Bonny--Author discovers Symptoms of Fever--The Rivers of St. +Nicholas, Sombrero, St. Bartholomew, and Sta. Barbara--"The +Smokes"--Capture of a Spanish Slave Vessel in the River St. John--Nun, +or First Brass River, discovered to be the Niger--Natural Inland +Navigation--New Calabar River--Pilot's Jhu Jhu--Foche Island--Author +Sleeps on Shore--Bonny Bath--Interview with King Peppel--Ceremony of +opening the Trade--Rashness of a Slave Dealer--Horrible +Fanaticism--Schooner at Sea--Return to Fernando Po + + +CHAP. XI. + +Reverence for Beards--Native Shields--Petty Thefts--Tornado Season-- +Author departs for Calabar--Waterspout--Palm-oil Vessels--Visit to Duke +Ephraim--Escape of a Schooner with Slaves--Calabar Sunday--Funeral of +the Duke's Brother--Egbo Laws--Egbo Assembly--Extraordinary Mode of +recovering Debts--Superstition and Credulity--Cruelty of the Calabar +People to Slaves--Royal Slave Dealer--Royal Monopoly--Manner of Trading +with the Natives--Want of Missionaries--Capt. Owen's Arrival--Visit +Creek Town with King Eyo--The Royal Establishment--Savage Festivities-- +Calabar Cookery--Old Calabar River + + +CHAP. XII. + +Captain Owen's Departure--Runaway Slave--Egbo again--Duke's Sunday-- +Superstitious Abstinence--Anecdote of a Native Gentleman--Breaking +Trade--Author's Visit to Creek Town--Bullocks embarked--Departure from +Calabar--Chased by mistake--Dangerous Situation--Mortality at Fernando +Po--Detection of a Deserter--Frequency of Tornados--Horatio hove down-- +Capture of a Slave Vessel--Loss of Mr. Morrison--Another Slave Vessel +taken--Landing a part of the Slaves--Author's Daily Routine--Garden of +Eden--Monstrous Fish--Continued Mortality--Market at Longfield + + +CHAP. XIII. + +Scarcity of Provisions in Fernando Po--Diet of the Natives--Their +Timidity--Its probable Cause--The Recovery of a liberated African +Deserter--Departure from Fernando Po--Reflections on the Uses of +the Settlement--Causes of Failure--Insalubrity of the Climate-- +Probabilities of Improvement--Arrival off the mouth of the Camaroon +River--Chase of a Brigantine--Her Capture--Her suspicious Appearance-- +Slave Accommodations--Pirates of the North Atlantic Ocean--Prince's +Island--Visit to the Governor--Drunken Frolic of a Marine--Provisions-- +Delicious Coffee--Account of the Town--Population--Varieties of +Colour in the Inhabitants--West-bay--Inhospitality of the Governor and +Merchants--Visit to a Brazilian Brigantine--Difficulty of obtaining +a Passage to Angola--Departure of the Emprendadora--The Eden leaves +Prince's Island--Crossing the Equinoctial Line--Dolphin and Flying-fish +--Trade-winds--Ascension Island at Daybreak--Landing--Description of +the Settlement--Turtle--Goats' Flesh--Abundant Poultry--Island Game-- +Aboriginal Foes--Unfaithful Friends--Gladiatorial Sports--Privileges +of Settlers--Traffic--Roads--Water--Culture of Soil--Produce-- +Vegetables--Live Stock--Population--Employments--Hours of Labour-- +Recreations--Departure from the Island--Recollections of Ascension +on a former Voyage--Dampier, the Navigator--The Variables--An Affidavit +on Crossing the Line--Change of Weather--Dutch Galliot--Passage for +the Brazils--Parting of Friends + + +CHAP. XIV. + +Dutch Galliot--An Agreeable Companion--Melancholy Account of St. Jago-- +Beauty in Tears--Manner of obtaining Salt and Water at Mayo--Pleasures +of a Galliot in a heavy Sea--Dutch Miscalculation--Distances--An +Oblation to Neptune and Amphitrite (new style)--Melange, Devotion and +_Gourmanderie_--Curious Flying-fish--Weather--Whales--Cape Pigeons-- +Anchor off Rio Janeiro--Distant Scenery--Custom-house Duties--Hotel du +Nord--Rua Direito--Confusion thrice confounded--Fruit Girls, not fair, +but coquettish--Music unmusical, or Porterage, with an Obligato +Accompaniment--Landing-place--An Evening Walk--A bad Cold--Job's +Comforter--Shoals of Visitors--Captain Lyon's Visit, and Invitation +to the Author--Naval Friends--Packet for England--English Tailors-- +Departure for Congo Soco--The Party--Thoughts on Self-Denial-- +Uncomfortable Quarters--Changes of Atmosphere--Freedom by Halves; +or _left_-handed Charity--Serra Santa Anna--Valley of Botaes--The +Ferreirinho, or little Blacksmith--Dangerous Ascent of the Alto de +Serra--Pest, an Universal Disease--An English Settler--Rio Paraheiba-- +Valencia--Curiosity of the People--Unceremonious Inquisitors--Comforts +of a Beard--Castor-Oil for burning--Rio Preta--Passports--Entrance to +the Mine Country--Examination of Baggage--Attention without Politeness +--The Green-eyed Monster, "An old Man would be wooing" + + +CHAP. XV. + +Advantages of Early Travelling--Funelle--"A Traveller stopped at a +Widow's Gate"--Bright Eyes and Breakfast--Smiles and Sighs--The Fish +River--Cold Lodgings--Fowl Massacre--Bad Ways--Gigantic Ant-hills-- +The Campos--Insect Warriors--Insinuating Visitors (Tick)--The +Simpleton--Bertioga--A Drunkard--Cold Shoulders--Mud Church--Feasting +and Fasting; or, the Fate of Tantalus--Method in a Slow March--Gentlemen +Hungry and Angry--No "Accommodation for Man or Horse"--A Practical +Bull--Curtomi--Hospitable Treatment at Grandie--Horse Dealer--A "Chance" +Purchase--Bivouac--Mule Kneeling--Sagacious Animal--Quilos--A Mist-- +Gold-washing--Ora Branca--Hazardous Ascent of the Serra D'Ora Branca-- +Topaz District--A Colonel the Host--Capoa--Jigger-hunters--Mineralogical +Specimens--Mortality of Animals--Pasturage--Account of Ora Preta--Gold +Essayed--Halt--Journey resumed--Arrival at Congo Soco + + + + +TRAVELS, + +ETC. ETC. + + + + +CHAP. I. + +Passion for Travelling--Author's peculiar situation--Motives for going +Abroad--Resources for the Blind--Embark in the Eden, Capt. Owen, for +Sierra Leone--Lord High Admiral at Plymouth--Cape Finisteire--Arrival +at Madeira--Town of Funchal--Wines of Madeira--Cultiwition of the +Grape--Table of Exports--Seizure of Gin--Fruits and Vegetables--Climate +--Coffee, Tea, and Sugar Cultivation--Palanquin Travelling--Departure +from Madeira + + +The passion for travelling is, I believe, instinctive in some natures. +We have seen men persevere in their enterprises against the most +formidable obstacles; and, without means or friends, and even ignorant +of the languages of the various countries through which they passed, +pursue their perilous journeys into remote places, until, like the +knight in the Arabian tale, they succeeded in snatching a memorial +from every shrine they visited. For my own part, I have been conscious +from my earliest youth of the existence of this desire to explore +distant regions, to trace the varieties exhibited by mankind under the +different influences of different climates, customs, and laws, and to +investigate with unwearied solicitude the moral and physical +distinctions that separate and diversify the various nations of the +earth. + +I am bound to believe that this direction of my faculties and energies +has been ordained by a wise and benevolent Providence, as a source of +consolation under an affliction which closes upon me all the delights +and charms of the visible world. The constant occupation of the mind, +and the continual excitement of mental and bodily action, contribute +to diminish, if not to overcome, the sense of deprivation which must +otherwise have pressed upon me; while the gratification of this +passion scarcely leaves leisure for despondency, at the same time that +it supplies me with inexhaustible means of enjoyment. When I entered +the naval service I felt an irresistible impulse to become acquainted +with as many parts of the world as my professional avocations would +permit, and I was determined not to rest satisfied until I had +completed the circumnavigation of the globe. But at the early age of +twenty-five, while these resolves were strong, and the enthusiasm of +youth was fresh and sanguine, my present affliction came upon me. It +is impossible to describe the state of my mind at the prospect of +losing my sight, and of being, as I then supposed, deprived by that +misfortune of the power of indulging in my cherished project. Even the +suspense which I suffered, during the period when my medical friends +were uncertain of the issue, appeared to me a greater misery than the +final knowledge of the calamity itself. At last I entreated them to be +explicit, and to let me know the worst, as that could be more easily +endured than the agonies of doubt. Their answer, instead of increasing +my uneasiness, dispelled it. I felt a comparative relief in being no +longer deceived by false hopes; and the certainty that my case was +beyond remedy determined me to seek, in some pursuit adapted to my new +state of existence, a congenial field of employment and consolation. +At that time my health was so delicate, and my nerves so depressed by +previous anxiety, that I did not suffer myself to indulge in the +expectation that I should ever be able to travel out of my own country +alone; but the return of strength and vigour, and the concentration of +my views upon one object, gradually brought back my old passion, which +at length became as firmly established as it was before. The +elasticity of my original feelings being thus restored, I ventured, +alone and sightless, upon my dangerous and novel course; and I cannot +look back upon the scenes through which I have passed, the great +variety of circumstances by which I have been surrounded, and the +strange experiences with which I have become familiar, without an +intense aspiration of gratitude for the bounteous dispensation of the +Almighty, which enabled me to conquer the greatest of human evils by +the cultivation of what has been to me the greatest of human +enjoyments, and to supply the void of sight with countless objects of +intellectual gratification. To those who inquire what pleasures I can +derive from the invigorating spirit of travelling under the privation +I suffer, I may be permitted to reply in the words of the poet, + + Unknown those powers that raise the soul to flame, + Catch every nerve, and vibrate through the frame; + Their level life is but a smouldering fire, + Unquench'd by want, unfanned by strong desire. + +Or perhaps, with more propriety, I may ask, who could endure life +without a purpose, without the pursuit of some object, in the +attainment of which his moral energies should be called into healthful +activity? I can confidently assert that the effort of travelling has +been beneficial to me in every way; and I know not what might have +been the consequence, if the excitement with which I looked forward to +it had been disappointed, or how much my health might have suffered +but for its refreshing influence. + +I am constantly asked, and I may as well answer the question here once +for all, what is the use of travelling to one who cannot see? I +answer, Does every traveller see all that he describes?--and is not +every traveller obliged to depend upon others for a great proportion +of the information he collects? Even Humboldt himself was not exempt +from this necessity. + +The picturesque in nature, it is true, is shut out from me, and works +of art are to me mere outlines of beauty, accessible only to one sense; +but perhaps this very circumstance affords a stronger zest to +curiosity, which is thus impelled to a more close and searching +examination of details than would be considered necessary to a +traveller who might satisfy himself by the superficial view, and rest +content with the first impressions conveyed through the eye. Deprived +of that organ of information, I am compelled to adopt a more rigid and +less suspicious course of inquiry, and to investigate analytically, by +a train of patient examination, suggestions, and deductions, which +other travellers dismiss at first sight; so that, freed from the hazard +of being misled by appearances, I am the less likely to adopt hasty and +erroneous conclusions. I believe that, notwithstanding my want of +vision, I do not fail to visit as many interesting points in the course +of my travels as the majority of my contemporaries: and by having +things described to me _on the spot_, I think it is possible for me to +form as correct a judgment as my own sight would enable me to do: and +to confirm my accuracy, I could bring many living witnesses to bear +testimony to my endless inquiries, and insatiable thirst for collecting +information. Indeed this is the secret of the delight I derive from +travelling, affording me as it does a constant source of mental +occupation, and stimulating me so powerfully to physical exertion, that +I can bear a greater degree of bodily fatigue, than any one could +suppose my frame to be capable of supporting. + +I am frequently asked how I take my notes. It is simply thus: I keep a +sort of rough diary, which I fill up from time to time as opportunities +offer, but not from day to day, for I am frequently many days in +arrear, sometimes, indeed, a fortnight together: but I always vividly +remember the daily occurrences which I wish to retain, so that it is +not possible that any circumstances can escape my attention. I also +collect distinct notes on various subjects, as well as particular +descriptions of interesting objects, and when I cannot meet with a +friend to act as my amanuensis, I have still a resource in my own +writing apparatus, of which, however, I but seldom avail myself, as the +process is much more tedious to me than that of dictation. But these +are merely rough notes of the heads of subjects, which I reserve to +expatiate upon at leisure on my return to old England. + +The invention of the apparatus to which I allude is invaluable to those +who are afflicted with blindness. It opens not only an agreeable source +of amusement and occupation in the hours of loneliness and retirement, +but it affords a means of communicating our secret thoughts to a +friend, without the interposition of a third party; so that the +intercourse and confidence of private correspondence, excluded by a +natural calamity, are thus preserved to us by an artificial substitute. +By the aid of this process, too, we may desire our correspondent to +reply to our inquiries in a way which would be quite unintelligible to +those to whom the perusal of the answer might be submitted. This +apparatus, which is called the "Nocto via Polygraph," by Mr. Wedgwood, +the inventor, is not only useful to the blind, but is equally capable +of being rendered available to all persons suffering under diseases of +the eyes; for, although it does not assist you to commit your thoughts +to paper with the same facility that is attained by the use of pen and +ink, it enables you to write very clearly and legibly, while you have +the satisfaction of knowing that you are spared all risk of hurting +your sight. It is but an act of justice to refer such of my readers as +may feel any curiosity on this subject, to Mr. Wedgwood, for full +particulars respecting his various inventions for the use of the blind. + +Having given these personal explanations--rendered necessary by the +peculiarity of my situation, and the very general curiosity which +appears to exist on the subject, if I may judge by the frequency of the +interrogatories that are put to me--will now conclude my preliminary +observations, + + Nor will I thee detain + With poet's fictions, nor oppress thine ear + With circumstance, and long exordiums here; + +but place myself at once on board H.M.S. Eden, at Woolwich, on the 1st +of July, 1827, having been previously invited to take a passage to the +coast of Africa, by her captain, W.F.W. Owen, Esq., who was appointed +superintendent of a new settlement about to be established on the +island of Fernando Po. The commission with which this gentleman was +charged, afforded him peculiar advantages, as he was to retain the +command of his ship, independently of the Commodore on the African +station, for the purpose of facilitating his operations in the island. +I had resolved to visit Sierra Leone, and other places on the western +coast of Africa, principally from an early anxiety I felt to explore +that part of the world, and also, strange and paradoxical as it may +appear, for the benefit of my health. That a man should visit Sierra +Leone for the benefit of his health, seems to be as unreasonable as if +he were to seek for the vernal airs of the south in the inclement +region of Siberia. But, I am strongly inclined to believe, that the +apprehensions of European travellers on this subject are often as fatal +as the climate that produces them. In my own case, I was not only free +from any apprehensions concerning fevers and those diseases which are +incidental to a tropical climate, but, having been recommended to try +the effects of a warm region, I anticipated an improvement in my +general health from a short residence at a spot, which incautious modes +of living, in addition to the insalubrity of the climate, have rendered +fatal to so many of my countrymen. At the same time, I am not +insensible to the fact, that all Europeans are more or less susceptible +of those disorders which are prevalent within the Tropics; especially +on the western coast of Africa, in Batavia, Trincomalee, and different +parts of the West Indies; but it is equally certain that fear is a +great predisposing cause of disease, and that the despondency to which +most persons give way while they are under the influence of its +effects, increases the mortality to a considerable extent. It has been +generally observed, that those persons who happen to be so actively +engaged in any engrossing pursuit, as to have no leisure for the +imagination to work upon their fears, are less liable to the fever, +and, if attacked, are better able to encounter its virulence, than the +timid and cautious. In the event of an attack, if the patient keeps up +his spirits, and prevents desponding thoughts from occupying his mind, +there is every reason to hope for a favourable result-- + + The sons of hope are Heaven's peculiar care, + Whilst life remains 'tis impious to despair. + +There are, of course, some constitutions more susceptible of the +disease than others; and it may also be observed, that young people are +more exposed to danger, than those who have passed the meridian of +life. + +We left Woolwich on the following day, July the 2nd, for Northfleet, +where we remained a week, for the purpose of making observations, +regulating the chronometers, &c. We also took in our guns, 26 in +number, of the following calibre--18 32-pound carronades, 6 18-pound +ditto, and 2 long 9-pounders, with a full proportion of shot. This +quantity of metal alone (for the carriages had been previously taken on +board and fixed at Woolwich) brought the ship bodily down in the water +four inches, drawing, when on board, 15 feet 2 inches forward, and 15 +feet 6 inches abaft. We also received, on the day after, as much powder +as could be put in the magazines. On Monday, the 9th, we left our +moorings, and proceeded down the Thames, anchoring for the night. On +the following day we arrived in the Downs, where we remained for about +six-and-forty hours, and from thence proceeded down Channel, and +anchored in Plymouth Sound, on Saturday the 14th of July, immediately +after which I accompanied my brother, Lieutenant Robert Holman, R.N., +who came on board for me, to his house at Plymouth, where I spent a +very agreeable time, amongst my old shipmates, relatives, and friends. +For the last few days, indeed, my enjoyment was marred by illness, but +that was merely the bitter, which a wise Providence mingles in the cup +of life. + +The period of my stay at Plymouth happened to be one of general +congratulation and excitement, owing to the arrival of his present +Majesty, then Lord High Admiral; who came there on a visit of +inspection. His Royal Highness held regular levees, which were +numerously attended. The opportunity to wait upon his Royal Highness +was to me a source of sincere gratification, of which I gladly availed +myself. But I must acknowledge that a faint hope arose in my mind, that +the peculiar circumstances in which I was placed might interest his +Royal Highness on my behalf, and lead to some change in my situation +favourable to the objects I had so long cherished. I ventured to +indulge in the thought, which, perhaps, I scarcely suffered myself +altogether to define, that I might be relieved from the obligations of +my appointment at Windsor, by which I am under restrictions, both as to +time and space; and be permitted to enjoy some equivalent consideration, +which would leave me free to prosecute the plans to which I had devoted +the whole energies of my mind. As it was, I had only obtained +permission to go abroad for the benefit of my health; but the remedy +was in itself an incitement to further travel, so that I should no +sooner have reaped the advantage of my leave of absence, and with +renewed health, acquired an increased desire for exploring distant +countries, than I should be compelled to relinquish my undertaking, +and the apprehension of a sudden recall constantly presenting itself +to my mind, checked in a great measure the enjoyment of my pursuit. +But my sanguine wishes, and unconfessed hopes, faded like a dream; and +I turned again to the sea, to contemplate the bounds that were placed +to my ambitious projects. Had it been otherwise--could I have followed +unchecked the course of my own impulses, I should not have +circumscribed my plan to any precise limits, but would have pursued my +travels, wherever the slightest point of interest encouraged me to +proceed. + +Possibly it is better as it is. I have much reason to be grateful for +the protecting hand of Providence that preserved me throughout my +wanderings; and, had I been less restrained by the force of +circumstances, I might not now, perhaps, possess the power of recording +the results of my researches. + +In consequence of having been confined to my bed by severe indisposition, +I was unable to walk to the boat when the Eden was ready to sail, and +had nearly lost my passage; but my anxiety to proceed overcame all my +difficulties, and ill as I was I saved my distance by hastening in a +coach to the waterside, where Captain Owen had kindly provided a boat +for my reception. + +On the 29th we got under weigh at 9 A.M., with a fresh breeze from the +eastward. + + Gallant before the wind she goes, her prow + High bearing and disparting the blue tide + That foams and flashes in its rage below. + Meantime the helmsman feels a conscious pride, + And while far onward the long billows swell, + Looks to the lessening land, which seems to say, 'farewell!' + +We did not long enjoy our easterly breeze, for in the evening the wind +became variable, the rain fell in torrents, accompanied with lightning +and thunder, and the night was dark and dismal, with an irregular sea, +which made the ship very uneasy; then followed one of those scenes of +confusion which can be witnessed only on shipboard; the creaking of +timbers as they were strained by the conflict of the elements, the +uproar of a multitude of voices, the ludicrous accidents arising from +the pitching and rolling of the vessel, things breaking loose in all +directions, chests flying from side to side, crockery smashing, people +hallooing, others moaning and groaning, accompanied with frequent +evomitions, and occasionally a general scream, from some extraordinary +crash. With tumultuous noises of this kind I was entertained as I lay +on my bed, not from sea-sickness, but from previous indisposition. +Towards morning the wind settled in the N.W., blowing very strong, and +the Eden continued rolling a great deal the whole day. This breeze +fortunately kept up the two following days, when the weather became +very fine, and the wind light and variable. The whole of this day +(Thursday, August 2nd) we were in sight of Cape Finisterre. On Sunday +the 5th the weather was very fine and warm, with a moderate breeze; we +had eleven sail of vessels in sight, the greater part of which, from +their regular order of sailing, were supposed to be the experimental +squadron under the command of Sir Thomas Hardy. Divine service was +performed by the Rev. Mr. Davy, a Church Missionary, who, with his +wife, was bound to Sierra Leone, to perform the duties of a missionary +and teacher to the liberated Africans; his wife taking upon herself to +instruct the female part of that community. The following day, in +36-1/2 deg. N. lat., we saw several flying fish, which I mention merely +because it was thought to be very unusual to see them so far to the +northward. + +On Wednesday, the 8th of August, we came in sight of Porto Santo. The +first appearance of land always produces a degree of interest in the +ship even to sailors, but to passengers it is generally the cause of +great excitement. In the afternoon we saw Madeira,[1] and on the +following day we rounded the west end of the island, and stood for +Funchal Roads, having passed along the north side in order that +Captain Owen might ascertain its length, which he found to be +thirty-four miles; this was precisely the same distance that he had +calculated it to be on a former measurement. He had taken this trouble +a second time, in consequence of some navigator having expressed a +different opinion on the subject. In the evening we anchored in +thirty-six fathoms water, the Loo Rock bearing N. by E. We found a +Portuguese sloop of war and several small merchant vessels lying here. +The next morning I went on shore with the surgeon and purser of the +Eden, both of whom have since died of fever on board the same ship. + +The general landing place for ships' boats is at the Loo Rock on the +west side of the bay, which is at the extremity of the town on that +side, and you have more than a mile to walk over a very badly paved +road before you arrive at the centre of the town; you may, however, +land on the beach near the custom-house, from whence you immediately +enter the best part of the town, but the surf is sometimes so rough +that you cannot attempt this point without risking a ducking, or the +upsetting of your boat, which you must immediately haul up on the +beach or keep outside the surf. + +Notwithstanding we had left England in the height of summer we found a +great difference in the climate, the weather being exceedingly hot. On +the following day I was invited to dine and take up my residence at +Mr. Shortridge's during our stay at Madeira. We met a large party at +dinner, consisting of Captain Owen, with some of his officers, the +Rev. Mr. Deacon, and a number of the most respectable English +residents. Madeira is so frequently visited by ships from different +parts of Europe, and has been so fully described, that it may, +perhaps, appear superfluous to attempt any further account of a place +already so well known; but as all men are supposed to possess a +certain portion of vanity, and as travellers are proverbially accused +of laying claim to the discovery of some facts which had escaped the +observation of their predecessors, I venture to throw together, into +as brief a compass as possible, the result of my inquiries, in the +hope that I may add something to that which is already known, and, at +all events, with a strong confidence in the accuracy of my remarks. + +The wine, being of vital importance to the prosperity of the island, +presents the first claim to the attention of a stranger. A sort of +controversy, with better reasons on the one side than the other, +prevails, respecting the relative qualities of the wines produced at +the north and the south sides of the island; in which the vineyards at +the north side have suffered what appears to be an indiscriminate and +injudicious censure. The grape chiefly grown there is the Virdelho, +which the most experienced planters allow to be productive of the +strongest and most esteemed of their wines; and when it is of the +growth of the southern vineyards it is held in the highest estimation. +It must, however, be admitted that the northern aspect is unfavourable +to the grape, and that the greater proportion of the wines from that +side are only fit for the still. The cause of this may be referred to +a variety of circumstances; such as the marked difference in the soil +and aspect and the mode of cultivation, the vines being trained upon +trees; whilst on the south side the more approved system is practised +of training them upon horizontal trellis work, raised two or three +feet from the ground, by which the plant is supported and the fruit +exposed to the full influence of the sun. A great superiority of +flavour is, no doubt, thus obtained: on the north side, the grapes are +entirely of the white kind, whilst on the south there is a great +variety, but chiefly of the red, from which it is said the finest wine +is made. The famed vineyards of the Malmsey and Sercial wines, are +towards the west end of the south side. There is but a very small +quantity of either grown on this spot of the first rate quality, or +indeed of any value as a characteristic wine, for on the easternmost +part of this situation there is a constant flow of water rushing from +the summits of the rocks, that greatly deteriorates the value of the +growths over which its influence extends. The practice of plucking the +leaves of the vines to admit the genial heat of the sun to the fruit, +as well as a free circulation of air, has been found most beneficial +in bringing the fruit to perfection. This process is also a source of +emolument to the planter, as the leaves form an excellent food for +fattening cattle destined for the shambles, giving also to the meat a +fine and delicious flavour. + +The wines of Madeira generally may be divided into three +denominations, and may be thus described. + +_Tinto_ is a red wine, the produce of the Burgundy grape, transplanted +to Madeira. It is drank in perfection in the second and third years, +before it has deposited its extractive matter, after which it becomes a +full bodied Madeira wine, of the usual colour and flavour. + +_Sercial_ is the produce of the Hock grape: a pale, lively, and very +high-flavoured wine. It ought not to be drank in less than seven years, +and it requires a much greater age to reach perfection. + +_Malmsey_, when genuine, is a rich and highly cordial wine. There is a +variety of it called _green Malmsey_, bearing some resemblance to +Frontignan. + +The first quality of the Madeira wine is certainly equal to the finest +production of the grape in any part of the world, for its aromatic +flavour and beneficial effects: therefore it is much to be lamented +that so small a quantity of it, in its pure state, should find its way +to foreign markets: and that its character should be sacrificed to the +sordid speculations of any unprincipled traders. Wine drinkers in +England are very commonly deceived into the idea that a voyage to the +East or West Indies is sufficient to ensure the excellence of the +wine; but this is an obvious fallacy, for if the wine were not of a +good quality when shipped from the island, a thousand voyages could +not make it what it never had been. It is well known to every merchant +in Madeira, that a great proportion of the wines so shipped are of an +inferior quality, and are purchased in barter by persons who are +commonly known by the name of truckers. + +I may here observe, as a general remark, that fine Madeira wines are +equally improved by the extremes of heat and cold, and that damp is +always hurtful to them. + +Burgundy vines have lately been introduced into Madeira. The generally +received opinion that the wines of Teneriffe and the Azores are +brought here for the purpose of giving them the Madeira flavour, and +sending them to foreign markets as the produce of the island, is very +erroneous. Although smuggling is openly carried on, and to an extent +that ought to set at rest so fallacious an opinion, any one acquainted +with this island must be aware of the utter impossibility of +introducing foreign wines with a view to exporting them again as +native produce; for, in the first place, the whole of the inhabitants +would be likely to resist such an attempt, from a conviction that the +introduction would militate against their own interests, and from the +obvious apprehension that the increased quantity as well as the +inferior quality of the adulterated wines, would injure the character +and reduce the price of their own. + +The great increase too, which it would occasion in the amount sent out +of the island, would render it very difficult for the speculators in +the spurious wines, to avoid detection. It is, therefore, much more +reasonable to suppose, that these mixtures take place in the markets +to which the wines are sent: the great demand for them tempting the +persons engaged in the traffic, to embark in an imposition which has +had the effect of deteriorating the wines so materially, that at last +they began to lose their previous character, to get out of fashion, +and, consequently, to fall off in demand as well as in price. This +system of intermixing different wines, to swell the quantity of some +favourite wine, is known to prevail to a great extent in those of +France and Portugal. The Clarets of the London market, are principally +prepared for the purpose, and, in the transit, lose much of the pure +nature of the original production: and the quantity of adulterated +Port that is sold in England is almost incredible. It is also a well +known fact, that there is more Tokay[2] sold on the Continent and in +England, in one year, than the limited space where it is grown, on the +mountains of Hungary, could produce in twenty years. + +But there is also, independently of this vitiation to which the wines +are liable, another cause for the inferior quality of those wines +which are really the produce of the islands. A few Englishmen, and +other foreigners, of a grade very different from that of the +respectable English merchants who have been long established here, hit +upon the expedient of exporting wines instead of attending to the +business which they had originally established on the island. They +thought it would turn out profitable to buy up cheap, and, of course, +inferior wines, for the purpose of sending them to the European +markets, under the impression that any thing would sell that was known +to be the genuine production of Madeira. By this method of enlarging +their business, the worst description of the native produce got +abroad, and was substituted in place of the best. There are, of +course, a great variety of qualities; but there is not a greater +quantity of the first quality than is required to flavour their +inferior wines; and it is only by appropriating it to that purpose, +that they could be enabled to furnish a sufficient quantity for the +immense demand in the various markets which they have to supply. + +It will be seen from the following account of the exportation of wine +from Madeira, that the demand was rapidly decreasing in 1825, 6, and +7, owing to the causes above mentioned. + +1825. +------------------------------------------------- + Pipes of Hds. Q.C. 1/2 Q.C. + 110 Gall. of 55 of 27-1/2 of 15 +------------------------------------------------- +January, 1367 1 0 0 +Feb. 751 1 0 1 +March, 1915 1 0 0 +April, 2463 0 1 0 +May, 1252 1 1 0 +June, 1112 1 1 0 +July, 1329 1 1 1 +August, 677 1 0 0 +Sept. 741 0 0 1 +Oct. 1338 1 1 0 +Nov. 881 1 1 0 +Dec. 599 0 0 1 +------------------------------------------------- + 14425 9 7 4 +------------------------------------------------- + + +1826. +------------------------------------------------- + Pipes, old + Measure Hds. Q.C. 1/2 Q.C. +------------------------------------------------- +January, 1092 1 1 1 +Feb. 420 1 1 1 +March, 905 1 1 1 +April, 777 1 1 1 +May, 1826 1 1 1 +June, 866 0 0 1 +July, 488 1 0 1 +August, 978 1 0 0 +Sept. 317 0 0 1 +Oct. 730 1 1 1 +Nov. 703 1 0 1 +Dec. 289 1 0 0 +------------------------------------------------- + 9391 10 6 9 +------------------------------------------------- + + +1827. +------------------------------------------------- + Pipes Hds. Q.C. 1/4 Q.C. +------------------------------------------------- +January, 371 1 0 1 +Feb. 573 0 0 0 +March, 252 0 1 1 +April, 958 1 1 1 +May, 1539 0 1 0 +June, 535 0 1 1 +July, 567 1 1 0 +August, 279 0 1 1 +------------------------------------------------- + 5274 2 6 5 +------------------------------------------------- + +I am informed, that smuggling is so common a practice in this island, +that there is no difficulty in procuring any prohibited article you +may desire: among the most abundant are French brandy and Dutch gin. +The former of these articles continued to be smuggled, in large +quantities, for some time after the prohibition, from an idea that it +was the best spirit they could use, and under an apprehension that the +wines could not maintain their character without it:--experience, +however, has shewn them, that they can not only do without French +brandy, but that the spirit which is made on the island, is much +better adapted to their purpose. + +An extensive seizure of gin was made during our short stay at Madeira, +under the following circumstances: A boat went off to a Dutch vessel, +on the same evening that she left the port, which, no doubt, had been +previously arranged, and took 300 cases of gin, which she landed at +the N.E. side of the island. She remained there that day, and +proceeded, under the obscurity of the following night, towards the +town of Funchal; but on her way she struck, and must have been wrecked +but for the assistance of a fishing-smack that happened to be near at +the moment. The fishermen were, as a matter of course, easily bribed +to assist the smugglers in landing and depositing the illicit store in +a cavern at Prior Bay, a little to the westward of Funchal. The next +day, however, a most unfortunate accident revealed the whole +proceeding. Two lovers had formed an arrangement to make an excursion +from Funchal to Kama de Loba, and leaving the former place in a small +boat, were in due time landed at Prior Bay. They had not proceeded +far, before they discovered the cave, and tempted, by its coolness and +its solitary situation, they entered it, when, to their surprise, they +saw a man lying in a remote part of the interior. As he appeared to be +sleeping very soundly, they ventured to look farther in, when they +perceived a great number of cases deposited in an obscure corner; and, +suspecting that they were placed there to elude the vigilance of the +revenue officers, they immediately communicated the fact to some +persons in the Custom-house, in the hope of being rewarded for their +zeal. The Custom-house people, who were probably already aware of the +circumstance, did not appear to be very anxious to interfere, and told +the disappointed informers that they might take a few cases for +themselves, and say nothing more about the matter. Shortly afterwards, +however, the affair reached the ears of the Governor, who immediately +sent a military party to seize upon the illicit deposit, the contents +of which were demonstrated by the potent effects which they had upon +the soldiers. + +The stone fruits of Madeira are in general of a very inferior quality, +arising from mere want of attention to their cultivation; for where the +trees have been planted in a favourable situation, and otherwise +attended to, the produce is excellent; but they are generally scattered +about the vineyards, and treated with the utmost carelessness, being +very rarely pruned or dressed. It is supposed that they are permitted to +grow in this irregular way for the purpose of attracting the lizards, +insects, and grubs from the vines, as it was found that they always +preferred the more solid nutriment of the stone fruit, especially the +peach. These grubs are so numerous, that they will scarcely allow a +single apricot or peach to ripen unperforated, consequently, the +planters are obliged to pluck, in a green state, what they would +otherwise desire to see expanding to full maturity. + +_Query_.--Why do the insects prefer the peach tree to the vine? Is it +from the resinous quality of the former? + +There is also an abundance of apples and pears, but of a bad quality, +occasioned by the same causes. The mulberry, fig, and guava, succeed +better; they are both abundant and good, but there are not any +plantains or bananas. On the higher lands, that is, above the general +height of the vineyards, the walnut and chesnut grow most luxuriantly, +and are both ornamental and useful. The chesnuts are so plentiful +that, in the fruit season, they form a considerable article of food +amongst the lower orders of the people. The fine old forest trees, the +original occupiers of the soil, are disappearing rapidly, even from +the deepest ravines; in situations easy of access they have been long +since destroyed by the lawless and thoughtless despoiler. + +I must not omit some reference to the vegetables of Madeira, and in +particular the potatoe, which grows as fine here as in any part of the +world. The cultivation of this edible has of late so much increased, +as in some districts to constitute the chief food of the natives. The +apparently unfavourable situation on which it is principally planted, +affords a convincing proof of the superiority, in habits of active +industry, of the peasantry of this island over the Portuguese peasants +in general. Instead of being indolent and supine, and indisposed to +embrace the means of ameliorating and improving their condition, they +are, on the contrary, enterprising, hardy, and persevering. The +potatoe is chiefly reared on the ascent of Pico Rueva, at an elevation +of 6,000 feet above the level of the sea, and many of the beds are +within 300 feet of the summit.[3] The ground above a certain height +belongs to Government, and the people have only a trifling tax to pay +for any portion that they choose to cultivate. Onions, pumpkins, +melons, cucumbers, &c. &c. are in the greatest abundance. Beef, +mutton, and poultry, of good quality, are to be obtained at moderate +prices, and fish in the greatest abundance. + +Madeira may be said to be in general very healthy; but in the autumn +diarrhoea is a common complaint amongst the lower orders, caused by +eating bad and unripe fruits, and drinking the washings of the +wine-press, a beverage made by throwing water on the husks of the +grapes, after the operation of pressing out the wine has been +performed, and then submitting them to a second pressure. + +It is not an infrequent occurrence, that parts of the crews of ships +that touch at the Island, suffer from eating unripe fruits, which are +often incautiously allowed to be brought on board, particularly the +peaches, which the commanding officers of vessels would do well to +prohibit by every means in their power. The Portuguese boats are +always ready to bring off great quantities of such trash, which no one +can eat with impunity. The changes of the weather, for which the +inhabitants are not sufficiently prepared by clothing, may be added as +another cause of disease. + +The planting of coffee has lately become very general in the vicinity +of Funchal, chiefly in gardens and places not favourable for the +culture of the vine, and this plant generally presents a most thriving +appearance, producing a berry which is highly esteemed, and is in such +demand at Lisbon that there is no doubt that the cultivation of it, +will, hereafter, become an object of some consideration; and I may +here observe, that it is already gradually extending. The quality of +this berry is so superior as to have rendered it an article of +exportation, and the people more readily resort to this new branch of +culture, from the decline in the demand for the secondary wines. Our +Consul has recently introduced the tea plant at his seat up the +mountain, from which some favourable specimens have already been +obtained. + +The manufacture of sugar has also been tried on the island, but +although the cane succeeds uncommonly well, the expense of conveying +it to Funchal, together with that of the process of extracting the +juice, and the want of skill in granulation, has rendered the +experiment too costly, it being found that Brazilian sugar can be had +cheaper than the native production. + +_Sunday, August 12th, 1827_.--I accompanied Mr. Shortridge to the +English Chapel, where the congregation was small, in consequence of +the absence of the merchants and their families in the country, during +the summer months. The service was performed by the Rev. Mr. Deacon, +who is a member of the Established Church, and holds the appointment +of Chaplain to the English residents, of whom there are a great +number, consisting of merchants, shop-keepers, servants, and a few +invalids. I do not, however, consider it the best place in the world +for the last description of visitors. Bermuda is well known to be a +much more healthy climate; from the land not being so high, the +weather is less variable, and the temperature, of course, more equal. +Madeira, notwithstanding, has two advantages over Bermuda, worthy of +consideration; it presents more agreeable and better society, and +offers greater facilities of intercourse with England; so that the +accounts from home are more frequent and recent. + +I left town in the afternoon, to dine with Mr. Webster Gordon, who +resides at the mount near the Church of Nostra Senhora del Monte, +about three miles in the country; where I was invited with Captain +Owen and some of his officers. They went on horseback, while I, being +still rather an invalid, hired a palanquin by the advice of my friend, +Mr. Shortridge. Having heard a good deal of the luxury of palanquin +travelling in the East, I thought it would be a very pleasant mode of +conveyance on a hot day; but instead of finding it swing loftily, like +a hammock, as I expected, I discovered much to my mortification, that, +when on the shoulders of the bearers, it was raised only about +eighteen inches from the ground, and consisted of a solid frame of +wood, suspended from a pole with two iron stanchions, and covered on +each side by a cloth flung over the pole, to serve as a curtain. In +this I was placed, in a half sitting, half recumbent posture, which I +need scarcely observe was not very agreeable. When I got out to call +at a gentleman's house, before I reached my ultimate destination, I +found that the cramp in the calves of my legs had so disabled me, that +I could scarcely stand, and it was a considerable time before I could +walk unaided and free from pain. I anticipated every moment that my +bearers would have complained of the road, which was badly paved, and +very steep the greatest part of the way; but they were fine, hardy, +muscular men, and quite indifferent to a toil with which habit had +rendered them familiar. Each bearer carries a long stick in his hand, +which assists to support and steady him, over the uneven ground. + +On arriving at Mr. Webster Gordon's, I was agreeably surprised to find +that I had been previously acquainted with Mrs. Gordon and her mother +in Italy. + +The population of the town of Funchal is said to be about 25,000; and +that of the whole island, including Funchal, 120,000. + +Invalids have, latterly, more facilities for obtaining lodgings than +they had in former years, the inhabitants finding it their interest to +direct their attention more to that particular. The resident British +may be estimated at about 250, including children; and since my return +to England, I have been informed, that, during this last year, there +were upwards of 100 invalid visitors from America. + +I passed the short time the ship remained very pleasantly, and I could +have wished that it had been longer; not only on account of the +salubrity of the climate, but for the advantage of being enabled to +collect more information. Some of the officers went to the Coural, a +celebrated part of the island for extensive and beautiful scenery. In +the afternoon of _Tuesday, August 14th_, we embarked, and sailed +out of Funchal Bay on the same evening, directing our course for +Teneriffe. Our consort the Diadem, transport, had left the bay a few +hours before. From Funchal, Madeira, to Santa Cruz, Teneriffe, the +course is S. 6 deg. E.; distance 252 miles. + +---------- +[1] Madeira received its name in consequence of being covered with +wood; the word "madeira" in the Portuguese signifying timber. + +[2] The vine of Italy was originally introduced to the mountain, of +Tokay, in the fourteenth century, by Louis I. of France. + +[3] In the mountains of the Caraccas the potatoe grows wild, and in +great abundance; but as they are left unnoted, they are usually not +much larger than the ordinary gooseberry.--See _Humboldt_. + + + + +CHAP. II. + +Teneriffe--Town of Santa Cruz--Female Costume--Incident at a Ball--Bad +Roads--Climate--Productions--Population of the Canary Islands--Imports +and Exports--Various Qualities of the Wines--Fishery--Leave Santa +Cruz--Crossing the Tropic of Cancer--Shaving and Ducking--General +Remarks--Make St. Jago--Anchor at Porto Praya--Sickly Season--Death of +the Consul and his Wife--Consul's Sister--Governor's Garden and +Watering-place--Population of the Island--Produce--The Orchilla Weed, +its growth, uses, and varieties--Cause of Fever--Departure for Sierra +Leone + + +_Wednesday, 15th_.--Fresh breezes and cloudy, with the wind and a swell +from the eastward. At sunset passed within six or seven miles to the +eastward of the Great Salvage Islands. + +_Thursday, 16th_.--At daylight saw the island of Teneriffe,[4] and at +nine anchored in Santa Cruz Roads, in nineteen fathoms water; the +flag-staff on the mole bearing W. by N. We saluted the Spanish flag +with thirteen guns, which was returned. + +Mr. M'Gregor, our Vice-consul, came on board, when he immediately +recognised me, as having seen me at Hamburg about three years before. +On his returning to the shore he was complimented with a salute of +seven guns, according to regulations. I accompanied some of the +officers on shore to take a ramble over the town. I regretted to learn +from Mr. M'Gregor that Mr. Bruce, our Consul-General for the Canaries, +was in England. This circumstance was a serious disappointment to me, +as I had a letter of introduction to that gentleman from a friend of +his at Madeira, who assured me that he possessed so vigorous and +intelligent a mind, and was so intimately acquainted with the island of +Teneriffe, where he had long resided, that I could not fail to obtain +much valuable information from him that was not generally known. + +My friends were very much pleased with the cleanly appearance of the +town and good pavement, affording a striking contrast to Funchal, +which, like most Portuguese towns, was dirty and badly paved. There +was another agreeable sight; the Spanish women, who were generally +handsome, with an interesting character of expression in their faces, +which is much heightened by their beautiful dark eyes and jet-black +hair. Their dresses are remarkable for their neatness. + +The town of Santa Cruz stands near the sea, on a plain of about two +miles square, at the foot of the mountains. The population amounts to +about 6,000 souls. It has a well fortified sea-line of defence, and a +mole protected by a fort. It was on landing at this mole that Nelson +lost his arm, and Captain Boscawen his life. The English colours taken +on that occasion are preserved as trophies in the principal church. Few +persons are seen walking about during the day, and those only of the +lower orders. The women wear large shawls thrown over their heads, +hanging very low down, and a round black hat with a high crown. A +friend of mine once visited the island in one of H.M. ships at the +time of the Carnival, and on the last day of the festivities there was +a public ball, to which the officers of the ship were invited. They +went early to see as much as they could of the inhabitants, and their +opinion of the ladies was, that they looked more like English than +Spanish women in almost all respects, except their remarkably black +eyes and hair. Before the dancing commenced the ladies were all +blindfolded, and each provided with a stick, when they were conducted +to one end of the room, where a jar full of _bon bons_ was suspended, +which they were desired to break, but the blows from their delicate +hands were not able to accomplish it, and one of the gentlemen at last +performed this task for them, when there was a general scramble among +the gentlemen, from a desire to procure some of the contents to present +to their fair partners. + +[Illustration: TOWN OF SANTA CRUZ, TENERIFFE] + +The Diadem transport anchored here soon after us. + +_Friday, 17th_.--The York, East Indiaman, was lying off this place in +the forenoon whilst her boat went on shore with letters. Some of the +officers took horse this morning and went to the town of Laguna, which +is about six miles from Santa Cruz. They found the road in a terrible +state, from a quantity of large stones and rubbish, which a late +hurricane, with heavy rain, had brought down from the higher lands. +Their ride was a very cheap one, for they only paid half a dollar for +each horse, including a guide--a rare occurrence for Englishmen to find +any thing cheap in a foreign country. Port Oratava, which lies on the +opposite or north side of the island, the principal town for commerce +on it, is 21 miles by land from Santa Cruz; and it is said to be 36 +miles from Oratava to the summit of the Peak, a journey of at least two +days' ascent from the latter place, which is the starting point. + +Our visit to this island was too short to be of much interest to a +traveller, for it would have required at least a week to have visited +the Peak only and returned to Santa Cruz, which I certainly would have +done if the ship had remained a sufficient time; as I also wished to +have visited Porto Rueva, at Madeira, but on my arrival at that island +I had not sufficiently recovered my strength after the indisposition I +experienced on leaving England. + +They have at Teneriffe, (besides horses, asses, and mules,) camels, +which are much in use as beasts of burden. Smoking is a very general +practice here, and consequently there is no want of ordinary cigars; +but I was surprised to find that Havannah cigars are very difficult to +be procured. They can be obtained, however, but at un exorbitant rate, +in consequence of the risks attending the smuggling. Tobacco is a royal +monopoly, and the duty is so high, that it amounts almost to a +prohibition, and consequently affords great temptation to smuggling. +They have ice at their command here in abundance, which is a great +luxury for a hot climate. They bring it down from the mountains, and +use it very commonly in lemonade, creams, and for many other purposes. +It is desirable to call here on your way to a hot climate, if it were +only to procure a few good drip stones, the best of which are brought +from Grand Canary, and which are to be had in great plenty, and very +cheap, from one to three Spanish dollars each, which is the most +current coin of this island. + +Teneriffe, in climate, soil, produce, and general appearance, strongly +resembles Madeira, from which it is distant 240 miles, due south. The +principal towns are Port-Oratava, Oratava, Realexo, and Caracheeo, on +the north side of the island; and on the south, Santa Cruz, Candilaria, +and Adexi; besides the inland towns, Laguna, (the capital) about two +leagues from Santa Cruz, Metanza, and Victoria, all on the road between +Santa Cruz and Port-Oratava, which arc at an elevation, varying from +3,000 to 5,000 feet above the level of the sea. This affords a +considerable variety of climate, and choice of residence. Teneriffe, +however, possesses but little English society, consequently there are +few comforts or inducements for invalids. There is an extensive plain +of table land and corn country round Laguna, which is a bishop's see, +with an income of 30,000 dollars per annum. The governor of the +province resides at Santa Cruz. There is also a bishopric at Grand +Canary (where the audience, or supreme court is held), worth about +50,000 dollars a-year. + +Teneriffe, from its great elevation, and gradual slope to the sea, +possesses every variety of vegetation from the tropic to the frozen +regions. In the first or lower region are found the date, palm, +pine-apple, alligator-pear, and sugar cane, tea and coffee trees, +lemons, citrons, oranges and grapes; the next region is that of grain +and fruits, and trees of temperate climates; next follow the chesnuts, +pines (Pinus Cananensis), and other hardy Alpine trees; then the region +of heaths, laurels, and other evergreens; and at the extreme limit of +vegetation, a considerable distance from the summit, the white broom +(Spartium Nubigenum.) The population of the Canary Islands is about +200,000, viz. Teneriffe, 80,000; Grand Canary, 60,000; Palma, 25,000; +Lanzerota, 15,000; Forteventura, 10,000; Heirro, 4,000; Gomera, 6,000. + +The exports, exclusive of the coasting trade, are wines, barilla, +orchilla weed, rock-moss, safflower, (hay-saffron,) and silks. The +imports are sugar, cocoa, oil, tobacco, paper, &c. from Cadiz; +earthenware, from St. Lucia; brandy, from Catalonia; dry goods, cloth, +iron, and hardware, from England; and staves, soap, candles, and rice +from the United States of America. + +The volcanic nature of the soil of the Canary Islands renders it +extremely favourable to the cultivation of the vine, which grows +luxuriantly in Teneriffe, where more than three-fourths of all the +wines exported from the Canaries is produced. The Teneriffe wines are +of the same description and varieties as the wines of Madeira, namely, +Tinto, Verdelho, Gual, Listan, Malvasia,[5] &c., but they are not equal +in quality to the fine wines of the south side, yet superior to the +wines of the north side, of that island. They are distinguished by what +may be called the generic denominations of dry and sweet. The dry is +well known by the name of Vidonia, and the sweet as Malvasia. The first +quality of the former can only be obtained from the most respectable +merchants, it being a very common process to convert it, by admixtures, +into a counterfeit of Madeira, or sherry, and occasionally to drug it +with port. The strongest quality of the celebrated wine called sack,[6] +is made in Teneriffe, Grand Canary, and Palma. + +Carbonate of soda is obtained from the _sal sola soda_, extensively +cultivated at Lanccrota and Forteventura. It is gathered in September, +dried, and then charred or fused into a ringing, hard, cellular mass, +of a greyish blue colour. A small quantity is made also at Grand +Canary. The barilla of the Canary Islands has been sold in England so +high as 80l. a ton, and as low as 6l.; at the present time, (December, +1833) it is worth 9l. 10s. a ton. The depreciation is caused chiefly by +kelp, and other substitutes found in the British alkali, a French +chemical discovery, manufactured from sea salt, from which, the other +ingredients are detached, by combination with sulphur, and acids +subjected to heat. The imports of barilla from the Canary Islands to +this country are about 3,500 tons a-year. The United States of America, +and of late years, Brazil, also, take off a few cargoes of this +article. Lancerota produces, annually, about 300 tons of barilla; Forte +ventura about 1500 tons. + +Rock moss (Parmelia perlata) is worth about 70l. a ton, and is one of +the innumerable lichens common to the Canary Islands; it is used in the +manufacture of cudbear for the dyers. There is also a spurious kind, +with difficulty distinguished from the good. + +Silk is chiefly produced at Palma. There is but little exported from +Teneriffe. It might, however, be produced in immense quantities, the +white and red mulberry tree being indigenous and luxuriant in the +middle region of the island, and the climate so mild, that the insect +could be hatched and reared under wooden sheds, without any difficulty. +The great defect in the Teneriffe silk is the coarseness of the fibre, +from want of dexterity in winding it off the cocoons, and in regulating +the heat to which it ought to be subjected during that separation. + +A considerable emigration used to take place annually from the islands, +and particularly from Lancerota and Forteventura, to the Spanish Main, +and to Cuba, where those islanders were much in request, as labourers +and muleteers; and often prospered so well as to be enabled to return +home enriched: but the practice has been prohibited since the +declaration of independence of Spanish South America. + +There is a considerable fishery carried on from the Canary Islands, on +the coast of Barbary, for a species of bream, which is salted in bulk, +and sold very cheap, and in great quantities. This trade is pursued in +decked schooners, or lugger-rigged vessels, of from 60 to 70 tons +burthen, which rum down before the trade wind to their station, where +they remain until they procure a cargo, when they beat up to the +island, take in a fresh cargo of Cadiz salt, and again return to their +station. They have very little intercourse with the Arab tribes of that +coast, but they sometimes bring back a few lion, tiger, and leopard +skins, and ostrich feathers. I am happy to learn that our knowledge of +the natural history of these islands is likely to be soon very much +increased, by the indefatigable exertions of P.B. Webb, Esq., a +gentleman well known to the scientific world, who is now engaged at +Paris in publishing the result of his researches in different branches +of natural history. + +In the afternoon we took in some oxen and wine, and left Santa Cruz +roads at seven in the evening. From Santa Cruz to Porto Praya, St. +Jago, the course is S. 26 deg. W. 920 miles. + +_Monday, 20th_.--Having crossed the tropic of Cancer last evening. +Captain Owen granted the ship's company permission to perform the +customary ceremony of shaving and ducking all those who had not +previously passed the tropic. Whenever a ship is intended to enter the +southern hemisphere, this marine exhibition is not performed until she +reaches the equinoctial line. Although this ceremony has been +frequently described, I do not think it right to pass it over +altogether unnoticed; I will therefore make a few general observations +by way of comment on the practice. + +A sea voyage is at the best a monotonous life, and a long voyage is +only to be wished for by the few whose health it is calculated to +improve; therefore, any little variety, that produces even but a +temporary excitement, is desirable; and in this point of view only, is +the old custom of shaving and ducking (which, by the bye, is a +barbarous one) at all excusable. + +When it is permitted to be practised, it should only be under certain +regulations, as the consequences have frequently been very serious, for +want of some salutary restrictions; in some cases the harmony that has +existed amongst the society on board has been destroyed; actions at +law, and duels, fevers from exposure daring the day's amusement, have +ensued: it is, therefore, imperatively necessary that the law should +take cognizance of this custom, and enforce some rigorous rules for the +government of all commanders of vessels, whenever circumstances should +permit the indulgence of this indefensible practice. In the first +place, the ship should be always put under snug sail; and that part of +the vessel, in which the scene takes place, should be completely +screened in, and no cruel or offensive practices permitted. The Captain +should always have the power of protecting his officers and passengers +from being compelled to submit to the demands of old Neptune, by paying +a small fine for the exemption: say cabin passengers, five shillings, +steerage passengers half-a-crown. The sum total of these fines should +be divided among those sailors who had previously crossed the line; +and, if any of the sailors on board should be found to throw water, +rope yarns dipped in tar, or in any other way insult, or annoy, persons +who do not take a part in their proceedings, they should be punished as +they would for a similar breach of discipline at any other time. There +is one example, which I feel at liberty to quote, and which was nearly +the occasion of a court-martial on the senior lieutenant of one of H.M. +ships that arrived in Simon's Bay during my residence at the Cape of +Good Hope. The circumstance was as follows:--The purser of the ship had +shut himself up in his cabin, determined to resist any forcible attempt +to make him undergo the ceremony of shaving; but those who were engaged +in it, were resolved that he should not be permitted to escape: they +accordingly forced the door of his cabin, from which they got him out, +dragged him on deck, and performed the ceremony, in spite of his +efforts and remonstrances. The charge against the first lieutenant was, +I understood, for encouraging the persons who committed this act of +violence. This formed the grounds of an application for a +court-martial, which was only prevented from taking place by the +intercession of some officers of rank. It is satisfactory to be enabled +to add, that this barbarous and unworthy custom is rapidly falling into +disuse. + +_Wednesday, 22nd_.--A moderate trade wind, and all sail set. At +daylight saw the island of Sall, bearing E.S.E. 15 miles. At half-past +5 in the afternoon saw the island of St. Jago,[7] when I went to the +fore top-mast head, for exercise and amusement, while others went to +see the land. At 11 brought the ship to the wind, and stood off the +land at a convenient distance for going into Porto Praya on the +following day. + +At daylight, made all sail, and stood towards the anchorage, with a +light breeze and very fine weather. At noon anchored off Porto Praya, +in 12 fathoms water and sandy bottom. Extreme points of the bay from +W. 3/4 S. to E. 3/4 S. Garrison flagstaff N.N.W. 1/2 W. + +Our Consul-General for the Cape de Verds (Mr. Clark) waited on Captain +Owen, from whom we learnt, that His Majesty's ship, North Star, sailed +from this port five days before, and that a very heavy gale of wind +arose from the S.W. on that night. We were also informed, that this is +the most sickly part of the year, in consequence of its being the rainy +season, which commences at the beginning of August, and continues to +the end of October; during which time the winds are frequently from the +southward and westward, making it hazardous to anchor at this port in +those months. The whole of this time is generally very sickly, so much +so that the principal authorities are glad to leave the island, and +repair to Fuego, which is the highest, and also considered to be the +most healthy of all the Cape de Verd group. The Chief Justice and his +family left Porto Praya, for Fuego, in a Portuguese sloop of war, on +the day we entered it, the Governor having previously left for the same +destination. + +There were many of the inhabitants suffering from fever, while we were +at St. Jago, and two of the Consul's family were among the number, and +I lament to relate, that not long after our departure, both the Consul +and his wife fell victims to this too commonly fatal fever of St. Jago, +leaving his sister, an amiable and accomplished young lady, dangerously +ill of the same disease. The case of this lady was one of the most +melancholy interest. She was entirely unprotected by the presence of +any country people of her own, except a gentleman, who, happening to +call there on his way from England to Sierra Leone, was induced to +remain on the island, at the request of Mrs. Clark, for the purpose of +acting as Vice-Consul, during the severe illness of her husband. This +gentleman, after performing the painful duty of reading the burial +service over the Consul-General and his lady, was himself attacked by +the same fever, and after struggling for a length of time against it, +was, at last, sent off to the island of Mayo, just in time to save his +life, leaving the Consul's sister behind, reduced to the last extremity +of the disease, with scarcely any symptoms of life remaining, and +attended only by her Portuguese friends, and any occasional English +visitors who landed incidentally from their ships for refreshments, on +their way to other parts of the world. At last, however, she happily +recovered, but after a very severe struggle, and a protracted illness, +and then she could not return direct to England, but was obliged to go +to the Brazils, in a French schooner, before she could procure a +passage home. I shall give, hereafter, some further details of this +young lady's history, leading to the attachment which afterwards sprung +up between her and her medical attendant, who fell in love with her +during a second attack of illness, and there is no doubt that her +fortitude and good sense had a great share in the admiration with which +she inspired him. + +_Friday, August 24th_.--Soon after breakfast I accompanied Captain +Owen, the Rev. Mr. and Mrs. Davy, and some of the officers of the ship, +to pass the day at the Consul's. We took a walk before dinner, to visit +the few places that were worthy of any notice; we first went to the +fort. This fort was forty-seven paces long and seven broad, where the +only objects of interest were the graves of two Captains in the Navy. +One of them contained the remains of an old shipmate of mine, Capt. J. +Eveleigh, who was mortally wounded when commanding the Astrea, in +company with the Creole, during an engagement with two French frigates, +the Etoile and Sultane, on the 23rd of January, 1814, off the Cape de +Verds. I sailed in the same ship with this officer when I first went to +sea. He was then junior lieutenant of the Royal George, bearing the +flag of Lord Bridport. I met him some years afterwards, when he was +lieutenant of the Isis, bearing the flag of Admiral Holloway, on the +Newfoundland station, in which ship I was a passenger from England to +Newfoundland, on my way to join the Cleopatra, as lieutenant, on the +Halifax station. The other grave was that of Capt. Bartholomew, of the +Lieven frigate, who died while he was occupied in the survey of these +islands. The late Consul-General had been purser of that ship, and, +poor fellow, both his grave and that of his wife were made near his +former captain's. + +From thence we went to visit the Governor's garden, which lies in a low +swampy situation, much below the town, and not far from the sea, where +the boats are obliged to land to procure water, subject to the +inconvenience of the surf, which sometimes renders it very difficult to +get the casks off. The water at this island does not deserve the bad +character given of it by some persons. It is, in fact, very good, and +it must, therefore, have been from negligence in procuring it, either +by disturbing it too much, or by using bad bungs, which allowed the +salt water to get in while floating off, that it acquired its +unfavourable reputation. It is supplied by several springs, issuing +from the side of the hill at the back of the town, which unite into one +stream, and as it approaches the sea, expands and forms into a basin, +the nearest part of which is forty yards from the beach. As this is +rarely dry, ships may be easily watered, by landing their casks through +the surf; and, when filled, floating them off to the ship. However, +when it is dry, or nearly so, as was the case when we were there, you +are obliged to roll the casks a considerable distance from the beach to +a well in the Governor's garden, from which they must be filled. This +mode is both tedious and laborious, while the sailors are almost sure +to get drunk on a bad spirit called _aqua dent_, which is sold to them +secretly by the blacks, who are ever on the watch to elude the +vigilance of the officers employed in that service. + +During the time of the former Governor, (the present one not having +been long in command,) this garden received great attention, and was +kept in excellent order; but the present Governor does not take any +interest in it himself, and, consequently, it is very much neglected; +indeed, there appears to be such a general apathy in all the people at +Porto Pray a, that it seems more like a place allowed to go to decay, +than a colony under an European Government, visited so constantly by +vessels from all parts of the globe. + +The population of Villa de Praya is about 4,000, and that of the whole +island about 28,000, which are principally blacks. A large proportion +of the male population of St. Jago, are enrolled in the militia, and +armed with boarding pikes; 300 of whom are compelled, in rotation, to +attend every Sunday, at their own expense, for the purpose of +exercising at Villa de Praya. The regular troops do not amount to more +than 400 for the whole of the islands. + +This place owes its support entirely to the ships that call here for +provisions; and the quantity of stock, fruit, vegetables, and water, +that is purchased annually at the island is immense. A considerable sum +of money is also spent by passengers, who go on shore for their +amusement. + +The landing at St. Jago is, at all times, indifferent, and in the rainy +season frequently very bad, both on the rocks, and on the beach, for +there are two distinct places of debarkation. Yet, with a little +attention, and a small amount of labour, a more secure landing-place +could very easily be made, by cutting a few steps in two or three +favourable situations, that would readily admit of the improvement; +whereas now you are obliged to watch the swell, and step out on pointed +rocks, or an irregular surface, at the risk of falling back into the +boat or the water; or bruising yourself severely on the rocks. Captain +Owen and myself once fell, when he was kindly assisting me out of the +boat. The best time for landing on the rocks is at half-tide. I was +informed that materials have been collected for constructing a pier, a +project, for which nature has provided an excellent site; but, from the +poverty of the government, or some other cause, it has been postponed. +This is the more extraordinary, as the Portuguese government has +hitherto been in the habit of transporting to St. Jago convicted +felons, by whom public works could have been cheaply accomplished. +Angola, however, has latterly been adopted as the principal convict +settlement of the Portuguese. + +Hides, goat skins, and salt, are exported from these islands, but the +chief and most valuable produce is the orchilla weed. It is a +government monopoly, and is at present farmed out to a man named +Martiney. + +As the orchilla weed is a production, the practical application of +which in various ways is diffused over a large surface of utility, and +as its peculiar properties are not very generally known, a minute +description of its nature and uses, which I have procured at some cost +of time and research, may not prove uninteresting. + +The orchilla is a delicate fibrous plant, springing up in situations +that are apparently the most unfavourable to the sustenance of +vegetable life. When gathered it has a soft delicious odour, which it +retains for a great length of time. Mr. Glas, in his history of the +Canary Islands, gives so clear and accurate an account of its growth, +that I will avail myself of his description, as being not only the best +I have met with, but as containing all the necessary particulars. "The +orchilla weed," he observes, "grows out of the pores of the stones or +rocks, to about the length of three inches: I have seen some eight or +ten inches, but that is not common. It is of a round form and of the +thickness of common sewing twine. Its colour is grey, inclining to +white: here and there on the stalk we find white spots or scabs. Many +stalks proceed from one root, at some distance from which they divide +into branches. There is no earth or mould to be perceived on the rock +or stone where it grows. Those who do not know this weed, or are not +accustomed to gather it, would hardly be able to find it, for it is of +such a colour, and grows in such a direction, that it appears at first +sight to be the shade of the rock on which it grows." + +Mr. Glas adds, that the best sort is of the darkest colour, and nearly +round; and that the more white spots or scabs it exhibits the better. +It is found in considerable quantities in the Canary Islands, the Cape +de Verds, the Azores, and the Madeiras, and such are the nice varieties +and properties incidental to the different soils, (if they may be so +called,) or climates, that although the above clusters of islands are +at no great distance from each other, the difference in the produce +makes a very considerable difference in the value of the article. It is +also found on the coast of Barbary, and the Levant, and on that part of +the coast of Africa, which lies adjacent to the Canary-Islands; but, +owing to the want of seasonable rains, the produce of the latter is not +rapid or abundant, although the quality is excellent. It has been +suggested, that the orchilla was probably the Gertulian purple of the +ancients; a conjecture which is strengthened by the fact, that the +coast of Africa, where the orchilla abounds, was formerly called +Gertulia. That the vivid dye which resides in this weed was known to +the ancients, does not admit of any doubt. + +The plant belongs to the class Cryptogamia, and order Algae, of the +Linnean system, and to the class Algae, and order Lichenes, of the +natural system. Professor Burnett, in his Outline of Botany, informs +us, that "Roccella, a corruption of the Portuguese Rocha, is a name +given to several species of lichen, in allusion to the situation in +which they are found; delighting to grow on otherwise barren seaward +rocks, that thus produce a profitable harvest. Tournefort considers +that one species at least (R. tinctoria) was known to the ancients, +and that it was the especial lichen (Greek: leichaen) of Dioscorides, +which was collected on the rocky islands of the Archipelago, from one +of which it received the name of the 'purple of Amorgus.'" + +Of all the known varieties of orchilla, that which is grown in the +Canary Islands stands the highest in estimation, and brings the +greatest price. In the collection of the weed, which is always +performed by the natives, the risk is imminent: they are obliged to be +suspended by ropes over the cliffs, many of which are of stupendous +height, and loss of life frequently occurs in these perilous efforts to +contribute to the luxury of man. Such is the esteem in which the +orchilla of the Canaries is held, that it has recently reached the +enormous value of 400l. per ton. That from the Cape de Verds is next in +quality, but of much greater importance, in reference to the quantity +produced. Madeira and the Azores produce the next qualities. The same +plant, though of a very inferior character, is found in great abundance +in Sardinia, in some parts of Italy, and also on the south coast of +England, Portland Island, Guernsey, &c. but of so poor a kind that it +would not reward the expense of collection. + +The original mode of preparing orchilla, that which was practised by +the ancients, is said to have been lost, and many chemical experiments +exhausted in vain for its recovery. In 1300, however, it was +rediscovered by a Florentine merchant, and from that period preserved +as a profound secret, by the Florentines and the Dutch. It appears that +the Florentines were not satisfied with keeping the preparation of +orchilla a mystery from the rest of the world, but that they +endeavoured to lead all inquiry into a false channel, by calling it +tincture of turnsole, desiring it to be believed, that it was an +extract from the heliotropium or turnsole: the Dutch also disguised it +in the form of a paste, which they called _lacmus_ or _litmus_. The +process is now, however, generally known, and simply consists of +cleaning, drying, and powdering the plant, which, when mixed with half +its weight of pearl ash, is moistened with human urine, and then +allowed to ferment: the fermentation, we are informed by Professor +Burnett, "is kept up for some time by successive additions of urine, +until the colour of the materials changes to a purplish-red, and +subsequently to a violet or blue. The colour is extremely fugitive, and +affords a very delicate chemical test for the presence of an acid. The +vapour of sulphuric acid has been thus detected as pervading to some +extent the atmosphere of London." + +I understand--and for some valuable particulars I here beg to tender my +acknowledgments to Mr. John Aylwin, merchant of London--that the great +object obtained from this vegetable dye, is the production of a red +colour, without the aid of a mineral acid. But the utility of the +orchilla is not confined to the purposes of manufacture. It has been +successfully employed as a medicine in allaying the cough attendant on +phthisis, and in hysterical coughs. It is also variously used in many +productions, where its splendid hue can be rendered available, and +imparts a beautiful bloom to cloths and silks. + +The introduction of the weed into England came originally through the +Portuguese. The Cape de Verd Islands having long been a possession of +the crown of Portugal, orchilla became a royal monopoly, and was +transmitted in considerable quantities to Lisbon, where it was sold by +public auction; from Lisbon it gradually found its way to England, +France, Germany, &c. The recent political contest in Portugal, caused a +total suspension of the shipment of orchilla at the islands. About six +months ago, there were two cargoes at Bona Vista waiting for orders, +one of them (a vessel of about 66 tons) put to sea, and arrived safe at +Lisbon only a few weeks before Admiral Napier's naval victory. When the +news of the result of that battle reached the island, the holders of +the remaining cargo proposed to hand it over for a consideration to +certain parties in the interest of Donna Maria, and it was accordingly +consigned to a Portuguese house in London. The vessel in which it was +sent was called the Saint Anne, of 60 tons, and sailed under British +colours: the cargo consisted of 564 bags,[8] each containing 2 cwt., +and the whole sold for 15,000L. I mention this circumstance as an +occurrence worth being recorded; the arrival of a vessel to England +direct from the islands being a great novelty, accounted for, in this +instance, by the political events which threw the trade out of its +regular channels. + +The principal manufactories of orchilla in England are London and +Liverpool, but there are many others in different parts of the country. +The chief manufacturers are Messrs. Henry Holmes and Sons of Liverpool, +and Mr. Samuel Preston Child of London. The manufactured orchilla is +frequently shipped to Germany, Holland, &c. in its fluid state, with a +small proportion of weed in each cask for the satisfaction of the +purchasers. The inferior qualities of the weed, and also a variety of +mosses that have the same properties as the orchilla, only in a minor +degree, are dried and ground to a fine powder, which is denominated +cudbear, and is applicable to the same purposes as the weed itself.[9] + +It is a curious illustration of the importance that is attached to the +weed generally, and to the weed of the Canaries in particular, that, +within the last twenty years, the latter production was considered in +London as a remittance equivalent to specie, and was invariably quoted +in the usual channels of commercial intelligence with the price of gold +and silver, thus:-- + + Doubloons per ounce + Dollars ditto + Orchilla Weed per ton + +A bark called the Cape Packet, bound on a whaling voyage in the +Pacific, arrived and sailed again to-day. Our consort the Diadem +transport arrived this afternoon, and sailed the following evening, +being _Saturday 25th_. + +_Sunday, August 26th_.--The Consul General, with his wife and sister, +came on board to attend divine service, and pass the remainder of the +day. + +_Monday, 27th_.--Very fine weather. At 7 in the morning, I accompanied +the Rev. Mr. Davy to pass the day with the Consul's family. A bark from +England, bound to the Cape of Good Hope, anchored in the roads to-day. +A brig, loaded with timber, bound from Sierra Leone to England, was +cast away on this island some time since, and the wreck was purchased +by our Consul. He accordingly made an agreement with some people for +the purpose of having it broken up, with the understanding that he was +to retain the copper bolts, and they were to have the wood for their +labour. I fear that this did not prove a good speculation on the side +of the Consul, as he found it necessary to be nearly always on the +spot, from a very reasonable suspicion that the workmen would steal +some of his bolts. It is not unlikely, that so great an exposure to the +sun as this occasioned him, had no small share in predisposing him for +the fever that afterwards attacked him. + +The cause of so much fever at St. Jago, may be traced to the peculiar +situation of the town, which stands on an elevation between low swampy +grounds, the exhalations from which pass over it as they arise. + +There are a great number of horses, horned cattle, goats, pigs, &c. +bred here. There was formerly an extensive traffic in slaves carried on +between these islands and the coast of Africa, which I was informed is +not yet wholly abolished. The best anchorage among the Capede Verds is +at St. Vincent's. What should prevent the Portuguese giving it up to +us, so that we might form an establishment for any ships to call there, +instead of going to St. Jago, where they so often make fever an +accompaniment with their refreshments? His Majesty's ship Tweed, +visited this place on her way to the Cape of Good Hope station, and a +great proportion of the young officers who slept on shore, died within +a fortnight afterwards. + +The bay abounds with fine fish, yet there are not many taken, therefore +the town is badly supplied, owing entirely to the indolence of the +inhabitants. + +At 5 in the afternoon we made sail out of Porto Praya, leaving it +without regret, except what we felt in parting from the Consul and his +family. There was also a Consul for the United States, but he was not +on friendly terms with Mr. Clark. Their differences, however, were very +soon settled by the great pacificator, death, for they were not long +after interred near each other in the fort. Visiting the Portuguese was +quite out of the question, as very few of them had the power of +entertaining strangers, excepting one old woman known by the name of +English Mary, and she was well paid for her civilities. She could give +you a sort of dinner with bad wine, bad spirits, and fruit. You could +also get your things badly washed here, that is, wetted and well beaten +for money. The Portuguese troops vary from black to white, with all the +intermediate shades, in ragged party-coloured clothing: but a truce +with the Colonial Portuguese:--I am now bound to an English colony, +where I fear I shall not find every thing as it ought to be, and that +is Sierra Leone, which bears from Porto Praya about S.E. by E. 1/2 E. +720 miles. + +P.S. The port charges at St. Jago are not heavy, as they do not exceed +sixteen dollars for a vessel of any size or nation. + +---------- +[4] This island was named Thenariffe, or the White Mountain, by the +natives of Palma; Thenar, in their language, signifying a mountain, +and Ife, white--the Peak of Teneriffe being always covered with snow. + +[5] Malmsey, or sack. + +[6] This word is erroneously supposed to be a corruption of "sec," or +_dry_, but both Canary and sherry sack of old times (as well as the +present) was a _sweet_ and _rich_ wine, and the name could not, +therefore, have been so derived. The term _sac_ is more likely to be a +contraction of the word "saccharine," or it may have been adopted in +consequence of the wine being made from half-dried grapes. + +[7] The islands of Mayo, Bonavista (or St. Filippe), and St. Jago, +were the first of the Cape de Verds discovered, in May 1461, by +Antonio de Nolle, a Genoese in the service of Portugal; and St. Jago, +was the first settled. The remaining seven were also discovered the +same year, by Portuguese subjects, namely, St. Antonio, St. Vincent, +St. Lucia, St. Nicholas, Sall, Fuego, and Bravos. + +[8] The bags in which the weed of the Cape de Verds is packed, are +marked with the initials of the island of which it is the produce, and +indicative of its quality which is at all times uniform. + +[9] A regular trade with Sweden for moss has been long established. A +variety of mosses, different in their growth, but all producing the +colour found in orchilla, are to be met with on the hills and rocky +places, at a distance from the sea, in every country where the weed +itself is indigenous. + + + + +CHAP. III. + +Arrival at Sierra Leone--Mr. Lewis--Black Washerwomen--Visitors on +board--Capture of Leopards--Mortality--Funeral of Mr. Lewis--Education +of Native Children--Regimental Mess--Curious Trials at a Quarter +Sessions--Depredations of the Kroo-men--Causes of Unhealthiness--The +Boollam Territory--Lieut. George Maclean's Mission--Election of a +King--Regent's Speech--Macaulay Wilson--Ceremonies of the Coronation-- +Character of the Boollams--Christian and Mahommedan Missionaries--Aspect +of the Country--Cession of Boollam to Great Britain--Extraordinary Trial +for Crim. Con.--News of the Death of Mr. Canning + + +_Saturday, September 1st, 1827_.--There was a moderate breeze from the +S.W. and fine weather to-day. At noon, lat. 9 deg. 20' N. lon. 16 deg. +6' W. Cape Sierra Leone S. 73 deg. E. 173 miles. Imagining that I was +avoiding a lady who was intentionally advancing to address me on the +quarter deck to-day, I stepped back and measured my length across the +gunroom skylight, which, fortunately for me, had a piece of wood +lengthways in the middle of it, to rest the sashes on, or I must have +paid the officers a visit in their mess-room in a very unceremonious +manner; I had however the good luck to escape with a slight bruise. + +_Sunday, 2d_.--At six in the morning we got soundings in 50 fathoms of +water, and at eight in 29 fathoms. Lat. 8 deg. 29' N. lon. 13 deg. 56' W. +Cape Sierra Leone S. 81 deg. E. distant thirty-six miles. At three in +the afternoon we saw the land, and at the same time a schooner, (which +we afterwards learned was the Joseph and Mary from Sierra Leone bound to +England.) Soon after this we saw the brig Ark coming out of the harbour +of Sierra Leone, which returned into port on the 7th, and sailed again +on the 14th of the same month. This brig had the Aid-de-camp of the +late Sir Neil Campbell on board, who died nearly three weeks before our +arrival, and this officer was the bearer of despatches relating to Sir +Neil Campbell's death, &c. Shortly before midnight we anchored off the +town of Sierra Leone in 14-1/2 fathoms water, and found that our +consort the Diadem transport had arrived only a few hours, although she +left St. Jago three days before we started. We had not any visitors +from the shore that night, in consequence of the lateness of the hour +at which we came to anchor; but we had a great number on the following +day to make up for it. + +_Monday, September 3rd_.--At 7 in the morning Mr. Lewis, the agent; +victualler, came on board to see Captain Owen, and some of his old +friends, whom he had previously known on board H.M. ship Leven. This +gentleman, however, had another motive for coming on board at so early +an hour; he had felt unwell for several days, and having boasted a good +deal about his infallible method of keeping off the fever, namely, by +the use of brandy and water and cigars, he did not choose to apply to +any medical man on shore, knowing that the circumstance would be +immediately spread among his acquaintances; he therefore applied to the +surgeon of the Eden for some medicines, which of course he obtained; +but mark the result--on that day week the officers of the ship were +invited to attend his funeral. + +About 8 o'clock the ship was crowded with black women, who came on +board to procure clothes for washing. Some brought a little fruit, and +all brought a very long tongue, for there was such a clatter that it +was almost impossible to catch one word that was said, and they +clustered round our breakfast table without any ceremony, which was not +very pleasant, in consequence of the variety of odours they carried +with them, from the delightful one of fruits and flowers, to the +broadly contrasted smells which I suppose were peculiar to their +colour. + +In the course of the forenoon Colonel Denham, Mr. Kenneth Macauley, and +many other gentlemen, came on board to wait on Captain Owen, and the +officers. We found that Colonel Lumley, the Commandant of the troops, +had assumed the reins of government on the decease of Sir Neil +Campbell, (August 14th) with the title of Lieutenant Governor. We +learnt that the place was still very sickly, but the rainy season was +drawing to a close, and sickness diminishing. + +_Tuesday, 4th_.--The two previous days had for a wonder been fine, but +the usual weather for the season returned to-day, namely, frequent and +heavy showers, with a bright sun at intervals. Took a ride on horseback +with Mr. Campbell before dinner, and afterwards dined with that +gentleman, in company with Dr. Burn. + +Mr. Campbell had two leopards, which he purchased with the intention of +sending to England, secured in one of the out-buildings in his yard. +They were brought from the Rio Pongas, about 80 miles to the northward +of Sierra Leone, and were taken, near that river in the following +manner:--Some black fellows having discovered a leopard's den, about a +dozen of them, armed with muskets, placed themselves to watch the +departure of the dam in quest of prey. When they went to examine it +they found two young ones, not larger than good sized cats, which they +immediately bagged, and conveyed to the town. They were soon followed +by the dam, but she would not venture to attack so great a number of +persons; she continued, however, to hover about the town for several +weeks, before she despaired of recovering her young. + +_Wednesday, 5th_.--Continued heavy rain in the morning, and showery +throughout the day. We hired 30 Africans, called Kroomen,[10] who are +always ready to serve as seamen on board of a man of war, or any other +vessel, so long as they continue on that coast. They are usually +entered as supernumeraries on the ship's books for provisions and +wages, in the same manner as British seamen. They are employed on any +service which would expose Europeans too much to the climate, such as +wooding, watering, pulling in boats, &c. I shall hereafter give further +particulars of these people, and their country. + +_Saturday, 8th_.--I accompanied Mr. Macaulry, to wait on his honour, +the Lieutenant Governor, Colonel Lumley, who continued in his +Commandant's quarters at the barracks, situated on a hill, which at +first rises gradually from the town, but becomes much steeper as you +ascend. We then accompanied Captain Perry and Mr. Green to the +regimental mess, where we lunched. It is worthy of remark, perhaps, +that three out of four of these gentlemen, namely, the Lieutenant +Governor, Mr. Macauley, and Mr. Green, whom I was in company with at +the barracks this morning, died long before my return to England. Dined +at Mr. Reffells, the acting Chief Justice, where there was a large +party, consisting of the Lieutenant Governor, and all the principal +official characters of the place, Captain Owen, &c. + +_Monday, 10th_.--Notwithstanding the heavy rain to-day, a large party +of the friends of the late Mr. Lewis, (agent victualler, who died last +night at 11 o'clock,) assembled at his residence near King Tom's point, +to witness his interment, under a large tree not far from the house. It +was distressing to observe a favourite dog of the deceased gentleman +howling about the grave of his late master. He offered so much +resistance to those who attempted to remove him, that it was with great +difficulty he could be prevented from throwing himself into the grave +after it had received the coffin. + +Mr. Miller, who was a volunteer serving for a commission in the Royal +African Corps, died to-day from the effects of fever. + +_Tuesday 11th_.--Some slight showers in the forepart of this day, and +fine in the afternoon, when the Rev. Mr. Davy took me to visit a school +for free black children under the charge of Mrs. Taylor, widow of a +late missionary in this colony. Although this is but a day-school, +there is a probability of its doing some good with all who attend it, +and a great deal of service to a few. But it is in vain to attempt to +civilize savage nations through the medium of book instruction alone. +Previous habits exercise so powerful an influence over the mind, that +the value of precept is hardly felt. The good impressions which arc +made by the teacher in the morning, are obliterated by the example of +ignorant parents in the evening; so that the result of an education +imparted in this way, is merely to sharpen the natural cunning of +youth, and give them an increased power of evil, by the fragments of +information they thus acquire. If we would have our efforts to improve +their condition, really effective, we should deal with them as with +foundlings. They should be removed from the contagion of their former +intercourse, and apprenticed out to persons who would look after their +morals, and whore they would have no bad examples set them, so soon as +they were capable of applying their faculties to objects of utility. +The instances are very rare where these African children have fulfilled +the expectations of their benevolent benefactors; I am persuaded that +an establishment for a limited number, in which the end proposed should +be the completion of the work of civilization, would be incalculably +superior to the attempts to accomplish that desirable purpose with +great numbers in so imperfect a manner. + +_Wednesday, Sept. 12th_.--Heavy and frequent showers, from last evening +till near noon to-day, when it cleared up, and continued fine all the +afternoon. This forenoon, I accompanied Mr. Kenneth Macauley to the +Court House, and attended the opening of the general quarter +sessions.[11] + +_Friday, 14th_.--Attended the Court to-day with Mr. Macauley, where I +heard various cases of petty larceny. The morning was fine, but it +became cloudy in the evening, and very dark with much lightning. The +latter is a strong intimation of the expected tornadoes, with which the +rainy season terminates, as well as commences. Captains Owen and +Harrison, Lieutenant Woodman (agent for transports), and myself, dined +with the Governor at his regimental mess. There were also present, all +the principal officers of the civil establishment. Could our friends in +England have witnessed the hilarity that prevailed at that banquet, in +such a country, and at that melancholy season of the year, they would +have scarcely credited what they saw and heard. Many who were seated +there on that day, are now no more! The assistant surgeon of the North +Star, who was serving on hoard a schooner, that was tender to that +ship, died to-day. His death was supposed to have been much accelerated +by the gloomy apprehensions that entered his mind from the moment he +was seized with the fever. + +_Saturday, 15th_.--Attended the Court, and heard some amusing trials +for house-breaking, and stealing therefrom; in one case there were +Kroomen against Kroomen:--Tom Coffee and Bottle of Beer--against +another Bottle of Beer. + +_Sunday, 16th_.--Very fine day. Accompanied the Rev. Mr. Davy on board +the Eden, whore he performed divine service: after which we dined with +Captain Owen, and returned on shore in the evening, when I accompanied +him to a chapel in the parish of St. George's, Freetown, where he +performed the evening service. There are a great number of Independent +chapels in the town, supported by the free black population, and with +black preachers. I unfortunately witnessed a trial in the Court, that +did not redound much to the credit of one of these preachers. As it is +very novel, and not a little amusing in its way, I think I cannot do +better than to give, in its proper place, the opening speech on the day +it occurred, as delivered in the Court by the plaintiff's counsel, who +was a black gentleman. It was the first cause of the kind that ever was +tried in this colony, where morality does not appear to be so highly +appreciated as in some countries of Europe. + +_Monday, 17th_.--Very fine warm day. I attended the Court as usual +to-day; and heard two trials of the same nature as most of the others; +distinguished also by the same difficulty of obtaining the truth from +most of the witnesses, who are quite indifferent to the responsibility +of an oath, because they have no qualms of conscience; but if their +priests were to fetish them, it is probable they might be induced to +give their testimony more honestly. Sentence was this day awarded to +all the prisoners that had been tried, as follows:-- + + John Rhode, a native of the Rio Pongas, for petty larceny. + Grando, a Krooman, for assault. + Yellow Will, a Krooman, for receiving stolen goods.[12] + Peter, a Krooman, for stealing from a dwelling-house. + John Testing, a discharged soldier, for ditto. + Jim Johnson, a liberated African, for grand larceny. + Ben Kroo, a Krooman, for ditto. + Jack Freeman, a Krooman, for receiving stolen goods.[12] + John Freeman, a Krooman, for ditto. + +Several other prisoners found "not guilty," were discharged by +proclamation, and the sentence on Patrick Riley, a private soldier in +the Royal African Colonial Corps, for maliciously stabbing with intent +to murder, was respited on the motion of counsel, until a reference +should be made as to the application to this colony, of the statute +under which he was indicted;--the 43rd Geo. III. cap. 58th, commonly +called Lord Ellenborough's Act. + +It is some gratification to know, that, notwithstanding these sessions +have been unusually heavy, still, that out of 19 prisoners in the +calendar, only two were liberated Africans, although this class of +persons forms nine-tenths of the community of the colony, and that but +one of them was found guilty; whereas, the time of the Court was taken +up with the crimes committed by Kroomen, 13 of whom were tried for +various offences. The evidence disclosed in these cases, afforded the +strongest grounds for the measure now in progress for reducing the +number of such strangers, by sending all above 600 from the colony; and +more particularly what are termed headmen. These fellows, who perform +no kind of work, it would seem, from what transpired in two or three of +the robberies brought to light before the public on this occasion, live +on the labour, and proceeds of plunder, obtained by the younger hands, +who first leave their country under the protection of these headmen, +and who are the mere instruments of this privileged class, contenting +themselves with planning the felonies committed by their dependants, +and thus generally escaping the consequences of detection; while, at +the same time, they _alone_ benefit in the pecuniary advantages of this +criminal course of life. The organization of professional criminals, +and the presence of the principle of co-operation amongst rogues, who +live by the commission of a variety of depredations on society, are not +confined to such places as London and Paris. The schemes and resources +of the headmen, considering the limits and differently constituted +sphere of their operations, are quite as admirable as those of the more +practised thieves of the modern Babylon. + +_Tuesday, September 18th_.--About one o'clock this morning, we had a +violent tornado, which we had expected, from the frequent lightning of +the last four or five days; also, from the near approach of the +termination of the rainy season. The morning was very fresh and clear +after it; but, in the afternoon, it became cloudy and close. Burglaries +are frequently committed by the Kroomen in Sierra Leone, under cover of +the storm, it being a favourable time, from the difficulty of hearing +their operations, as well as from the disinclination the inhabitants +feel to go out in such heavy rain and wind, to examine their stores and +out-houses. + +_Wednesday, 19th_.--Heavy rain from last evening till nine this +morning. Attended the Court, where I heard the trial of an action +brought by a house-carpenter against the executors of an estate, for +work, forming part of a contract that he had made with the late Tascoe +Williams, Esq.; the executors objecting to pay any part, because the +whole of the contract had not been performed, although it appeared, +that he was ready, but they were not willing, that he should complete +it: a verdict was, of course, given for the carpenter. + +At three in the afternoon, I accompanied Capt. Owen to dine with Capt. +Arabin, on board the North Star, which was to sail for the Gambia on +the following day, taking a detachment of the Royal African Corps +thither, under the command of Lieutenant Nott. There was, at one +period, so much sickness at Sierra Leone, that this young man (then an +ensign) was the COMMANDING OFFICER IN BARRACKS! + +_Thursday, September 20th_.--Very fine weather. Accompanied Mr. +Macauley in a ride on horseback, through the grass-field, to a village +called Portuguese Town, and round Barrack Hill, passing the new, and +afterwards the old burying-ground, &c. The grass-field is said to be +that part of Sierra Leone, which is the principal cause of the +unhealthiness of the town, it being, in heavy rains, partly covered +with water; however, there are other causes in addition to this, that +are said to contribute to the unhealthiness of the place. One of these +is a belt of wood on the hill above the town; which must considerably +impede the current of air, and, if this was cleared and cultivated, it +would greatly improve the salubrity of the place; but, I fear, the +greatest evil of all is insurmountable, under existing circumstances, +as it is not within the control of the colonists. This is the low +marshy land that lies on the other side of the bay, and directly +opposite the town, called the Boollam shore, where a friend of mine +(Lieutenant George Maclean, Royal African Corps, who is, at present, at +the head of the Council at Cape Coast) went a few months before my +arrival, on an important mission from the Governor of Sierra Leone, to +be present at, and thereby countenance and confirm their choice in, the +election of a king. + +The origin of the connection between our colony at Sierra Leone, and +the natives of the Boollam territory is very interesting, and will form +an appropriate introduction to a sketch of Lieutenant Maclean's visit +during the election of a King. + +In the year 1804, the colony of Sierra Leone was attacked by the Native +Powers, and a body of blacks to the northward of the Boollam +territories was put in motion for the purpose of assisting the other +native tribes in overwhelming the white population at Freetown. The +King, or Chief of the North, (or, as they call themselves, the Sherbro +Boollams,) who has since been known by the name of King George, and +through whose territories the hostile tribes must needs pass, being a +firm ally of the King of Great Britain, declared that on no account +whatever would he permit them to pass through his country to attack a +British settlement: and he carried his point so effectually as to +render the expedition fruitless. In consequence of the determined and +friendly conduct of this Prince, a deputation of whites from Freetown +was despatched to him, with an invitation to visit Sierra Leone, which +invitation he accepted. While at Freetown, he was crowned with all +solemnity by the name of King George. He continued on the most amicable +terms with the Government of Sierra Leone until his death, which took +place the 19th of May, 1826, at the advanced age, it is said, of +upwards of one hundred years, a point which it would be difficult to +ascertain accurately, as these people are entirely ignorant of their +own ages. Since this period the throne of the Boollams has been vacant; +it being now, however, the intention of the people to proceed to the +choice of a King, according to their custom; and it being deemed of +considerable importance from the vicinity of Boollam to Sierra Leone, +that a person should be elected who was known to be friendly to the +English settlement, it was determined by his Excellency the Governor +that a person should be sent as a commissioner to be present at the +election and coronation; whose duty it should be to support the claims +and secure the election of a person known to the English by the name of +Macaulay Wilson, who, being a near relation of the late King George, +and having been educated in England, being also a man of considerable +abilities, was deemed in every way worthy of the throne. + +The election of Macaulay Wilson having been accomplished, it would then +become the duty of the Commissioner, on the part of the English +Government to use every means in his power to induce the new King, with +the numerous chiefs and head men, to accede to, and sign, a convention, +whereby the sovereignty of Boollam was to be ceded to the King of Great +Britain, under certain limitations and restrictions specified in the +treaty. The attainment of this point, would, of course, be attended +with great difficulty; but it had become of the utmost importance for +the suppression of the slave trade that the attempt should be made; for +slave dealers who were actually carrying on their traffic in Freetown, +upon the least alarm, removed to Boollam with their unfortunate +victims, and being then out of British territory were in perfect +security. The following is Lieutenant Maclean's personal narrative of +his mission. + + "_Yougroo, Boollam, March 3rd, 1827_. + + "I left Freetown tins morning in the Government barge, with Mr. S. (a + person appointed to accompany me as interpreter) and arrived in the + course of the evening at the Boollam shore. On landing I proceeded to + Yougroo, called by the late King, George Town, where I was received by + the King _(esse)_, by Dalmahoumedii, a powerful Mandingo chief, with a + number of other chiefs, and headmen. + + "There was a very good house (constructed after the country fashion) + assigned us as a place of residence. After taking possession, I was + visited by the different chiefs and head men, who came to pay their + respects, or, as they phrase it, to do service to me, as representing + the Governor of Sierra Leone. These consisted principally of Boollam + chiefs, who had seldom left their own country; and a few, + notwithstanding their vicinity to a white colony, who had scarce ever + seen a white man before. There were, also, not a few Mandingo chiefs, + who had acquired property and influence in Boollam, and which was + daily increasing. These Mandingoes are possessed of considerable + intelligence and great cunning, by which means, and by the genius of + their religion (Mahommedan), they invariably, though gradually, + acquire the superiority over the native rulers of those countries in + which they choose to settle. In Boollam this was becoming very + apparent; and as the Mandingo chiefs are all either covertly or + openly, supposed to be engaged in the slave trade, and consequently + opposed to the English Government, I was instructed particularly to + guard against, and to oppose their interest in the election of the + King. Dalmahoumedii, whom I mentioned above, is the principal Mandingo + chief in Boollam, and is by far the best informed man that I had seen + here. He is even well conversant in European politics. He is a man of + large property, and has a town of his own, called Madina, inhabited + entirely by Mandingoes. + + "For the ground-rent of this town and neighbourhood, he pays a nominal + duty to the king of the Boollams, as his superior, although, in fact, + his power and influence in the country is nearly equal to the king's + own. On the day of my arrival, he sent me, ready cooked, in the + European style, an excellent dinner, of which I, of course, could not + do less than ask him to partake. Although a Mahommedan, he drank wine + freely, in compliment, as he said, to me, although I could perceive + that he enjoyed it exceedingly. He told me, in the course of + conversation (carried on principally through an interpreter) that he + had, at that time, no fewer than 85 wives. His brother, who had died + some time previously, left 75 wives, all of whom he was entitled, by + the custom of his country, to have married; he told me, however, that + he only chose 45 of them, all of whom he wedded in one day. In the + evening a number of these ladies favoured us with their company, some + of whom were very fine women. They also seemed to drink their wine + with great relish. + + "Rejoicings commenced at sunset, and continued during the whole night. + I had a guard of honour placed over my residence, to prevent intrusion + during the night; which, however, I found it impossible to prevent + altogether, as during the election and coronation of a king, the laws + 'sleep,' nor can any crime, short of murder or an attempt to murder, + be punished during that space of time, which generally extends to 14 + or 16 days. The natural consequence of this is, that all the most idle + and worthless of the neighbouring nations, or tribes, flock to a place + where they can practise all manner of crimes with impunity. Many + persons, particularly minstrels, or bards, had walked upwards of 400 + miles from the interior, to be present at the election about to take + place at Yougroo. + + "The town of Yougroo, I was told, generally contained but about 500 or + 600 inhabitants, although, during the election, &c. there must have + been, at least, 5000 or 6000 persons present. + + "The mourners for the deceased king, of whom there are 16 in number, + are the most extraordinary figures that can possibly be conceived. One + half of their faces (the upper half) is painted white, forming a + hideous contrast with their black countenances. The mourners + (literally 'makers of the cry,' i.e. lament) are appointed immediately + on the death of the king,[13] and continue their functions until the + election of a new king takes place, however long it may be before that + event may happen. They are generally girls of from ten to fourteen + years of age, and are, while mourners, held sacred and inviolate. + + "_Sunday, March 4th_.--This day was appointed for the formal election + of a successor to the throne of King George. By noon, the whole of the + chiefs and headmen were assembled in the Palaver House, when the + Regent, or person appointed to administer the government during the + _interregnum_, proposed, in a speech of some length, John Macaulay + Wilson to be the future King of the Boollams. Previous to this, a + deputation had been sent requesting my presence. I accordingly + attended in full dress, along with Mr. S----. The Regent's speech, as + literally translated by my interpreter, and immediately after noted + down by me, was as follows:-- + + "'We have now met, headmen and brethren, to perform a great duty, and + to exercise a great privilege. It becomes our duty to elect a + successor to our vacant throne, "the cry" (i.e. the mourning) being + about to close. We have now no king; if we look to his hearth, there + is no one there; if we call upon our king, no one answers; thus are + we, as children without a father; as a family without a head; whom + then shall we choose to sit in the seat of our late venerable king? + Who shall walk in the footsteps of him, whose sayings were the sayings + of wisdom, and out of whose mouth proceeded justice: whom, I say, + shall we elect, but his own son[14], who listened to him when alive, + and who will not forget him now that he is dead? + + "'You have long known this person; and you know that he will not bring + disgrace upon your choice; but that he will do those things which a + King of the Boollams ought to do; that he will discourage wickedness, + encourage the righteous, and do justice to all men; I therefore + propose that John Macaulay Wilson be elected King of the + Boollams.'[15] The speaker of the above was an old man, highly + respected by all classes, named, 'Nain Banna.' It becomes his duty, + immediately on the king's death, to assume the government as Regent; + he is, however, on that account ineligible for the throne. + + "After some conversation among the chiefs, consisting principally of + tributes of praise to the late king, it was formerly announced to me, + 'that John Macaulay Wilson was elected King of the Boollams:--that he + held the Boollam Country in the palm of his hand:--and that the scales + of justice hung upon his finger,' I was also entreated to report to + his Excellency the Governor of Sierra Leone, the choice they had made, + and their hopes that it would meet with his approbation. The people + expecting that I should address them, I rose, and by my interpreter, + said, 'that I should not fail to report to my master, His Excellency + the Governor of Sierra Leone, the good order and unanimity which had + prevailed in the assembly; that I had no doubt but His Excellency + would approve of the object of their choice that day; that from what I + had heard of their new king, I had no doubt, but that he would justify + the confidence they had placed in him; and I trusted that the same + good sense and attention to the true interests of their country, which + they had shewn that day, would guide all their future deliberations. + In conclusion, I begged leave to congratulate them, on having chosen + such a ruler; and to congratulate their king, on the distinction that + day conferred upon him.' + + "The day closed as usual with every manner of licentiousness. + + "_Monday, March 5th_.--This being the day appointed for the + inauguration of the new king, it was ushered in with the firing of + musketry and other demonstrations of joy. At 10 A.M. the chiefs and + headmen assembled, and immediately proceeded to the performance of + certain mysteries, which take place in the depths of the bush; and to + which the initiated only are admitted. + + "At noon they emerged from the bush, having the new king with them; + whom they now regarded as a complete stranger, providentially sent + them from heaven to be their ruler. + + "A deputation now requested my presence at the Palaver House, to which + they were then conducting the king; the headmen and people dancing + around him, as he passed through the streets, in the most fantastic + manner. On my arrival the late Regent pronounced a very long harangue + in the Boollam language, which was repeated sentence by sentence in + the Mandingo and English by the respective interpreters. In this + speech, which however I did not note down, Nain Banna rehearsed what + had from time immemorial been the practice of the Boollams, in cases + such as the present, and declared that all the rites and mysteries + proper for the occasion, had been duly performed. He then pronounced a + long encomium on the virtues of their late king, and concluded by + paying his respects to the new king, and myself, respectively, which + he ended with the highest term of respect which the Boollams + know:--'May you live for ever.' + + "He then requested permission to introduce to the assembly, a stranger + whom they were in future to revere, 'King Bey Sherbro;'[16] after + which, Bey Sherbro received the homage of his subjects. During this + time a number of minstrels played upon their several instruments, some + of which were very ingenious and musical. Those in particular, who had + come a long distance from the interior, executed with spirit and taste + some very beautiful airs; much finer, indeed, than any native music I + had yet heard. They accompanied their instruments with extempore + recitatives in praise of those chiefs whom they knew. I was, of + course, included, as they expected that I would be inclined to reward + them handsomely. Each minstrel of any repute had a person attached to + him by way of fool or jester, several of whom acted their parts very + well, and strongly reminded me of Shakspeare's clowns. + + "Dalmahoumedii was in the assembly, surrounded by a number of + followers, but he appeared to feel that he had lost ground. He took + no part in the proceedings. + + "If it were fair to estimate the character of a people, by their + conduct during a period of unbounded license, I should say that they + were generally, almost universally, a nation of thieves, idlers, and + drunkards. It was with difficulty, indeed, I could preserve my own + private stock of wines, &c. I was assured, however, that such is not + their general character, although they are, no doubt, like all + Africans, extremely indolent and attached to the old customs of their + country. To even the most absurd and superstitious of these, they + cling with such tenacity, that it would be a work of incalculable + labour, and of many years, to induce them to abandon them altogether, + even after they should be made conscious of their absurdity and + barbarity. The European Missionaries of the present day would never + do it. It was attempted some years ago with much zeal, but there is + not at this moment, I believe, a single convert to Christianity in + Boollam, to reward the labour, or repay the expense, which was + lavished on that object. But a very different success has attended + the efforts of the disciples of Mahommed in propagating the doctrines + of the crescent. Not only in Boollam, but in all the neighbouring + districts; even in the Peninsula of Sierra Leone itself, there are + twenty converts to the crescent, for one to the cross; and the reason + is obvious; the Christian Missionaries begin at the wrong end; they + insist upon first making people Christians, and then morality and + civilization, they say, follow as matters of course: and they present + Christianity in its most inattractive form, to men accustomed to the + uncontrollable indulgence of their passions. The Mahommedans know the + genius of the people better, and without altering the spirit of their + religion, they exhibit it in a manner exactly suited to that genius, + as far as regards externals; and in such a form, that the adoption of + it even flatters the vanity of the convert. Thus, in the article of + dress, the Mahommedans have a peculiar or distinguishing cap; to be + entitled to wear which, is, in itself, a matter very flattering to + the vanity of the young worshipper of the crescent; and I am + convinced, that were it incumbent upon Christians to wear in public a + red cross on the shoulder or hat, that it would be the means of + drawing many to listen to the doctrines of Christianity: and really I + can see no sin in the means thus adopted. + + "This evening I despatched the barge to Sierra Leone, with an account + of our progress, and requesting the Convention to be immediately + transmitted, together with the usual presents to be given to the new + King and chiefs. In the mean time every measure was taken, and + argument used (with occasional presents), to induce the chiefs and + headmen to consent to the cession of the sovereignty of the country + to Great Britain. + + "_Tuesday, March 6th_.--This morning I walked out to make a few + observations, and to form some idea of the capabilities of the + Boollam country. What struck me, in the first instance, was the great + fertility, and natural beauty of the surrounding country, which it + was really painful to contrast with the extreme ignorance and + indolence of its inhabitants. There is not, perhaps, a country under + Heaven more calculated to repay the exertions of industry, from the + richness and fertility of the soil; as also from the flatness of the + country, which would prevent the soil from being carried away by the + rains when cleared of the bush. It is in my opinion far more adapted + for agricultural purposes than the Sierra Leone side of the bay. + Spices of almost every description grow naturally and in abundance; + and it would require but little capital, with industry, to make the + soil produce sugar, coffee, tobacco, and indigo in great plenty. In + short, the produce of the Boollam country might, without very great + labour be made to rival that of either our East or West India + possessions, in fact almost every article imported into Great Britain + from either is indigenous to this soil. The indolent and lazy + natives, however, cultivate little excepting rice. The articles + procured from the British settlement at Sierra Leone, such as + fire-arms, gunpowder, tobacco, rum, &c. are got in exchange for + timber, and occasionally labour. + + "During my residence in Boollam, it frequently struck me, that a + British Settlement on the Boollam coast would be highly desirable, + say at Madina. For the reasons stated above, I am almost certain that + practical agriculture would soon become prevalent, inasmuch as it + would soon become profitable. Another, and a very strong inducement + to settlers would be, that Madina, and indeed the whole range of the + Boollam coast, is very healthy. What is called the _country fever_ in + Sierra Leone, is scarcely known in Boollam. + + "To-day five or six of the mourners came to do service to me, which + they performed by bending their heads to the earth, and, in that + position, moaning in a low tone the praises of the deceased King, + mixed with compliments to myself. + + "At midnight I received letters from Sierra Leone, by which I had the + satisfaction of learning that His Excellency approved of my measures. + + "_Wednesday, March 7th_.--This day I succeeded in removing the + numberless evasions and objections urged by the chiefs against the + treaty. + + "In effecting this measure Mr. S----'s exertions were of the greatest + service. + + "In the evening we were a good deal amused by the natives fishing on + the beach. They caught a great number of fish, such as snappers, + cat-fish, soles, sharks, &c. + + "_Thursday 8th_.--This day the convention arrived, and the blanks + being filled up, and the treaty solemnly signed and ratified, I had + the satisfaction on _Friday, March 9th, 1827_, of hoisting the + British flag, and of taking possession of Boollam in the name of His + Britannic Majesty." + +Such is the narrative of Lieutenant Maclean, respecting a people whose +habits are as peculiar as his account of them must be interesting to +Englishmen. + +_September 21st, 1827_.--On this day I attended the Court, to +hear the trial to which I have already alluded. It was a case of +adultery, and the parties were all free blacks. The action was brought +by a carpenter against the Rev. Samuel Thorpe, a preacher at one of +the Independent chapels, for criminal conversation with his wife; and, +as I have a copy from the records of the Court, I think it will be +much more satisfactory to insert the document in full, than to +supersede it by any desultory remarks of my own. It will give a clear +and characteristic idea of the state of society amongst these people. +The occurrence was so unusual, that it created no small astonishment, +that such a case should be brought into Court. The following is the +address of the plaintiff's counsel, and the verdict. + + BERNARD _v_. THORPE. + + "Gentlemen of the Jury, + + "I bespeak your attention and indulgence. I am not only this day the + advocate of my client, but I am lending my humble efforts to defend, + perhaps I ought to say, assert, the divine right and sacredness of the + social compact of marriage, the palladium of every married man's + family, happiness and comfort. I will remind you, gentlemen of the + jury, that this is the first action of the kind that has been tried on + these boards since the colony has been ceded to the British + crown.--Among you, gentlemen of the jury, I see fathers, brothers, and + husbands, to all I appeal this day on behalf of my client, and of this + colony. Shew the world this day, by your verdict, that you will not + suffer with impunity the foul crime of adultery to be committed in the + face of a rising family; shew the value in which you hold the solemn + engagements of your female relatives; let your verdict warn the + seducer that he dare not trespass on any man's honour, or blight with + apathy, for one moment, any pleasure or gratification of his conjugal + tenderness. + + "It has been too common in actions of this kind, for the defendant to + treat with contumely the humble situation of the injured prosecutor. I + do not apprehend much from any such attempt in this cause. I + acknowledge, gentlemen, that my client is a very humble individual, + but he is a respectable and an honest man, by trade a carpenter. I + see, gentlemen, on your countenances, that his humble lot shall not + deprive him from having his happiness considered as dear to him as to + any man, and equally inviolate; for you need not be told, that the + comforts and happiness of the rich and the poor originate from one + source: as it is not necessary to be rich to feel with acuteness the + pain to which our weak frames are subject, or to enjoy with zest the + most pleasurable sensations, so the poor possess the same advantages; + indeed, it is the poor to whom family happiness must be the greatest + solace! the rich have various resources to derive comfort from; the + poor seldom more than centres in their family. But before I attempt to + describe to you the sufferings of my client, I shall enter rather + minutely into the actual situation in life in which the plaintiff and + defendant in this action are placed: if unnecessary to some of you, + yet there may be others who naturally demand this explanation should + be given; I trust this will be admitted as my apology. + + "I will begin with the defendant; because, indeed, gentlemen, he is + the more highly favoured man; I mean, gentlemen, that Providence has + blessed him with a much greater share of this world's goods; he is + known to man by the solemn designation of the Rev. Samuel Thorpe; yes, + gentlemen, the defendant in this action, for criminal conversation + with the wife of my client, is, or very lately was, a preacher of + morality; an expounder of that divine doctrine which inculcates the + precept, 'Do unto others, as you would have others do unto you;' he is + a gentleman, who, beholding with horror the degeneracy of the times, + and believing, no doubt, it required some extraordinary exertions to + recall us unto virtue, has voluntarily, for no idea of gain, or means + of livelihood, publicly devoted his talents to the pulpit. Such + conduct, if we had not other most opposite circumstances to disclose, + would have called forth our admiration and applause; for, gentlemen, + the pulpit, in the sober use of its legitimate peculiar powers, must + stand acknowledged, while the world shall stand, + + "The most important and effectual guard, + Support and ornament of virtue's cause. + + "The defendant, gentlemen, is also a rich man; he is, to say the + least, in very easy circumstances; we see, in this colony, several + valuable possessions of his; and we behold, at one of his houses, a + store from which is retailed valuable merchandise. The defendant, + gentlemen, I am instructed to say, is verging towards the decline of + life; to have arrived at those years, when the hey-day of the blood + might well be expected to have gone by, and that, while he preached + morality, he would find no constitutional impediment to prevent his + practising it. I am persuaded, gentlemen, that, if a cause of the + present nature had been brought before you, in which the defendant had + been a young unmarried man, you would have made some allowance for the + infatuation of his youthful passions; but when, as in the present + instance, we find experienced age; the well-informed man; the + promulger of that divine law, which denounces everlasting punishment + to the adulterer, is brought before you, charged, although a married + man, with this offence, I feel I must, indeed, commit an act of + injustice to you all, if I did not declare, that, in such a case, I am + convinced your feeling's cannot be otherwise than aroused to visit + such a criminal with your vengeance. + + "My instructions suggest to me more than I will utter; yet, I must + confess, that I have been struck with the sacred profession of the + defendant, and the pertinacity with which it appears he committed the + offence against my client, for which you are now called upon to award + him the only remuneration the law allows; I cannot refrain from + asserting my belief, that the defendant's feelings must have been + strangely perverted; he, doubtless, made his full calculation upon his + outward profession, and his inward inclinations, and, I believe, I do + him no more than justice, when I put into his mouth, and suppose by + him uttered in his private moments, the expression used by an arch + hypocrite of former days: + + "I sigh, and with a piece of scripture, + Tell them God bids us do good for evil: + And thus I clothe my naked villany + With odds and ends stol'n forth of Holy Writ; + And seem a saint, when most I play the devil. + + "I regret, very much regret, gentlemen of the jury, I am thus obliged + as a faithful advocate before you; but I have still another feature + to disclose, and here I must declare, that it has astonished me more + than I shall attempt to describe. I alluded before, gentlemen, to + the circumstance of the defendant's being a married man. Yes! he + has a wife living in Freetown, whom (from fear she should take a + right from his substance) he has turned out upon the world! to the + generosity--the kindness--of the stranger! surely we may infer that he + may be left at home with more ample means to gratify his passions. He + has also no children; this I am sorry for on his account; surely he + would have paused before he would have offered them such an example; + before he would systematically set about the seduction of a woman, + surrounded even by her grand-children. + + "I turn now to my client; but, indeed, I have little more to add + respecting him. He is poor, because he has many claims on his + industry; his wife has born him several children; and some of these + children are grown up, and married, and in their turn have children; + the connexion between the plaintiff and his wife has therefore been of + long standing, in fact on their entrance into life they became + attached to each other. The connexion was not for several years + sanctioned by the rites of our religion, but it was not less a + marriage; the assent of the heart was complete, and it has been + sanctioned by what the parties thought binding; further ceremony could + only add more publicity to the engagement. Yet after many years mutual + intercourse, they resolved to give that intercourse every tie, and + were consequently legally married according to the rites of the Church + of England. I mention these particulars because I apprehend my learned + friend will set about pulling their family history to pieces, and + endeavour to shew that my client and his wife might have had some + little family jars; be it so, gentlemen, let him make the endeavour: I + will tell him that their jars are the pleasures of the married life; + they are the tornadoes of the marriage state, which clear away the + mists and fogs, that, alas, will at times intrude themselves, to make + the succeeding calm more susceptible of enjoyments; I warn you I speak + by experience; and my learned friend Samo, on this sacred subject, can + offer nothing but theory; think, gentlemen, how dearly they must have + valued each other, when after a lapse of many years--after all their + little storms of life--they yet resolve to make their union + indissoluble, by adding thereto the celebration of those rites of our + church, which has for its maxim 'that those whom God has thus joined + together no man shall put asunder.' + + "Contrast this with the conduct of the defendant, his own wife an + exile from his bed and board, for no cause, except the lordly will of + the defendant. A woman, against whom scandal has not yet dared to + whisper; still, (although she has suffered much from the violent + conduct of her husband) still, I say, striking for personal + attractions and accomplishments; and is avowedly of an unspotted + character. Let the defendant, therefore, but attempt to pry further + than he has done into the private habits of my client, as regards his + wife, and I shall not hesitate still further to tear down the + beautiful appearance of adopted sanctity, simplicity, and innocence + of deportment, with which he has hedged himself round. + + "My client had been often led to believe that all was not right + between his wife and the defendant, even before the time of the + criminal conversation now prosecuted for. I am aware that my learned + friend may allege that:-- + + "Trifles light as air, + Are to the jealous confirmation strong + As proof of holy writ; + + "But, gentlemen, can you for a moment believe that there was no art, + no perseverance, no continued attention, no working on the passions + before the criminal moment; but that the victim fell at once into the + commission of the adulterous intercourse alleged? Human nature forbids + such an idea. The female mind, always timid, would think of her + ties--her husband--her children--her grand-children; and prevent her, + before, at least, all her fears. I challenge the defendant to name, + even in one slight instance, any thing in the conduct of my client's + wife, that such a ready compliance could be expected. + + "On Thursday night, the 17th of May last, between nine and ten o'clock + at night, the defendant sent his lad to call Mrs. Polly Bernard to his + house. You must know, gentlemen, that Mr. Samuel Thorpe then lived + (and for aught I know does now) in the same street, and within a short + distance of the dwelling of my client, but which was then exclusively + occupied by his wife. The object of thus sending for Mrs. Bernard by + the defendant, is alleged, I am informed, for the simple purpose of + making his bed. It is really astonishing that this gentleman could not + be content to have his bed made by some of his men servants; that he + did not hire a female, considering his ample means. Now the real + object for which Mrs. Bernard was thus called to the house of the + defendant became soon apparent. After her ingress the light ceased to + throw its shade through the casement--the windows and doors were + closed upon the guilty pair. Too much cunning generally defeats its + own intention: not far distant from this scene of unhallowed pleasure + stood the keen eye of jealousy, watching the progress of the night in + order to preserve what custom had made her consider as her own. Yes, + gentlemen, Mrs. Samuel (another intimate acquaintance of the Rev. + Samuel Thorpe,) some time after Mrs. Bernard had entered the house of + the defendant, rushed to the house--knocked at the door and got + admittance. On getting inside, the only object she sought was Mrs. + Bernard. Although in the dark she called her by name--what eye so keen + as that of a jealous woman: she attacked Mrs. Bernard, as Mrs. B. sat + on the bed of Mr. Samuel Thorpe. Both females exerted themselves to + the utmost; one to the assault, the other to repel such violence. Only + conceive, gentlemen, what a fine figure for the painter and the + moralist was here exhibited; at the dark hour of night, two married + women fighting most lustily in the bed-chamber of the pious defendant; + while he (taken by surprise) kept pacing his piazza, unable to + recollect what he had best do, and trembling with fear that the + indiscreet uproar would lead to his exposure. I will pass over the + effects of excited passion, and merely inform you, that to identify + the person so as to leave no subterfuge, Mrs. Samuel carried away as + trophies of her resentment, some handkerchiefs and an ear-ring, she + had taken from Mrs. Bernard. + + "Well then, gentlemen of the jury, you see the defendant, detected in + connection with the wife of one man, by the wife of another, whose + passions he had raised to jealousy by prior intercourse--whether + criminal, or not, I leave to your judgment--that is not, to-day, my + duty to decide. + + "Mrs. Samuel, in the excited feelings of the moment, smarting under + the seeming neglect and vacillating conduct of the defendant, as + regarded herself, flies from house to house, spreading the dishonour + of the plaintiff; the news soon reaches the injured husband; his wife + has absconded from consciousness of guilt--he seeks her out, charges + her with her crime--she confesses it--and now, gentlemen, he is forced + to fly to you, to redress his wounded sensibility and affection." + +The Jury, having heard counsel on the other side returned a verdict +for the plaintiff, damages Fifty Pounds. + +The schooner Thomas arrived from England this morning after a passage +of 35 days. By her we heard of the death of Mr. Canning, which caused +an extraordinary sensation. A warm discussion sprang up among the +Freetown politicians, as to who should form the next Ministry, each +person, of course, electing a Prime Minister for himself, and making a +Cabinet after his own taste. + +---------- +[10] Although these men are hired under the denomination of Kroo men, +they are generally Kroo, and Fish men, who inhabit the country between +Sierra Leone and our settlement of Cape Coast Castle. + +[11] There were only nineteen prisoners in the calendar, one of whom +was a soldier, Patrick Riley, for a desperate attempt to murder a +serjeant with his bayonet. The rest of the prisoners were principally +Kroomcn, and other black fellows, for house-breaking, stealing, &c. +&c. + +[12] In these cases the principal felons remained unknown. + +[13] King George was the first king of Boollam, that had been allowed +to die a natural death, through fear of getting 'a palaver,' as they +term it, with Sierra Leone. Previous to this, they always despatched +their kings when they considered them about to expire, sacrificing two +human victims, whom they buried in the same grave. + +[14] Meaning that the late king loved him as a son. + +[15] It is but right to state, that the above speech was read over +sentence by sentence, to the person who spoke it, and that he deemed +it to be almost literally reported, and seemed much astonished that it +could have been taken down. + +[16] The new appellation of John Macaulay Wilson. + + + + +CHAP. IV. + +Auction at Sierra Leone--Timber Establishments in the River--Tombo, +Bance and Tasso Islands--Explosion of a Vessel at Sea--Liberated +Africans--Black Ostlers--Horses Imported--Slave Vessel--Colonial Steam +Vessel--Road and Street Repairs--Continued Rains--Suggestion for +preserving the Health of European Seamen--General Views of the +Colony--Population--Parishes--Supply of Provisions--Description of +Freetown--Curious Letter from Black Labourers--Original Settlers-- +Present Inhabitants--Trade with the Interior--Strange Customs of Native +Merchants--Anecdote of Sailors--Injurious Example of the Royal African +Corps--Vaccination of Natives--Medical Opinion--Departure from Sierra +Leone + + +_Monday, Sept. 24th_.--Still stronger signs of the breaking up of the +rainy season, more frequent heavy showers, with thunder and lightning +for the last two days. A fine morning, but squally and showery in the +afternoon. There was an auction held to-day of the effects of the late +Tasco Williams, Esq.; one peculiar feature of which is worth noting. +The persons who had assembled were hospitably entertained with bread +and cheese, and abundance of wine and spirits, with a view, no doubt, +to increase the animation and excitement of the scene. Whether the +bidders became extravagant in consequence, I do not know, but I think +it very likely; at all events I suspect that the auctioneer was trying +an experiment on the animal spirits of the company. This custom, +although by no means familiar to Englishmen, is very generally +practised in the north of England. It is probably a relique of ancient +manners. + +I left Freetown, about five in the afternoon, with Mr. McCormack to +visit his timber establishment at the island of Tombo, a distance of +twenty miles up the river, which we made, with a slight breeze, in +about three hours. We passed two similar establishments, the one on +Tasso, and the other on Bance Island, of the former of which Messrs. +Babington and Macauley are the proprietors, the latter belonging to Mr. +Williams. The account I received of Mr. McCormack's enterprise was full +of interest. + +When that gentleman first visited Tombo, he found the interior covered +with a dense jungle, and the shores choked up with mangroves. There was +only one solitary hut on the island near the beach, which was used as a +resting place for boats trading up the river. At that time there was a +slave factory in full occupation at Bance Island. It would be very +difficult to compute the expense, and almost impossible for persons who +are not practically acquainted with African mangroves and jungle, to +estimate the exertion and perseverance which must have been necessary +to bring this place to its present state of improvement. The wildness +of the surface has given way before the hand of industry, and that +which was some years before a wilderness of underwood, now presents an +aspect of cultivation. The whole of this point is as clear as the +streets of Freetown; and on a fine open situation, where the breeze +plays from almost every point of the compass, an excellent stone house, +with out-offices, has been erected. The site is well chosen and the +building is scarcely inferior to the best houses in Freetown. The upper +part is used as a private dwelling, and the lower part is appropriated +to storage. A good boat-house, a saw-pit, upwards of twenty plastered +huts, for the mechanics and labourers employed on the spot, and a well +cut through the solid rock, from whence excellent water is obtained, +complete the conveniences of the establishment. + +Mr. McCormack does not fell any timber in the island; he merely uses +his location here as a depot for the wood which is brought down the +rivers Rokelle and Porto Logo from the upper countries. For this trade +he contracts with the natives inhabiting the lands lying near the +shores of the rivers, and the wood is floated down on rafts to Tombo, +where ships come to take in their cargoes. The African oak is so heavy +that the natives are obliged to raft it on wood of a much lighter +specific gravity. This trade is of considerable benefit both to our +colonists and the native tribes. It not only promotes a friendly +intercourse between them, but affords constant employment to great +numbers of the latter, by which they are enabled to secure many of the +comforts of civilized life, of which they must otherwise have been +destitute. It has also had the happy effect of releasing them from +vassalage, which formerly prevailed universally, and which was in some +degree necessary as a protection against the arbitrary power of the +different chiefs during the existence of the slave trade. + +A statement of the annual export of timber from Tombo, since the +commencement in 1816, will shew with what rapid strides the trade has +increased. + + In 1816 716 logs. + 1817 7,087 do. + 1818 1,341 do. + 1819 2,251 do. + 1820 6,271 do. + 1821 4,454 do. + 1822 1,429 do. + 1823 4,593 do. + 1824 10,093 do. + 1825 22,206 do. + 1826 24,456 do. + +There is a mud bar across the river about one mile and a half below +Tombo; and as the depth here is not more than 14 feet at high water, +vessels ought not to load more than 13 feet before they drop below. + +_Tuesday, Sept. 25th_.--Heavy rain in the night, but a fine warm day. +Soon after noon I left Tombo, and visited Bance Island. The only +objects of interest that presented themselves were the remains of an +old slave factory, and a burial ground. The road to the latter place +was by a path through a lime and orange plantation, which grew so +luxuriantly that it quite obstructed our way, and we were compelled to +have a black pioneer, who went before us with a sword to cut down the +thorny branches. In this remote and lonely place I found the following +epitaph on a tombstone, which appeared to me so curious that I caused +it to be transcribed. + + Here lies The Residue of The Honourable Sea Captain, GEORGE ANDREW + HIORT, Born in Denmark, the 6th of September, 1746, Married January + 8th, 1766, to the virtuous Lady Mary Catherine Schive, who, extremely + sorrowful, with two good-natured Daughters, deplores the too early + Death of this now eternally-blessed Person. + + Died on the Coast of Guinea, the 15th October, 1783. His Body reposes + here, waiting for a glorious Resurrection, whilst his Soul is in the + hands of GOD, where no pain can reach. + +In this place we discovered a tombstone of the date of 1680, but +unfortunately the inscription was illegible. + +We made an excursion to the island of Tasso before dinner, and returned +to Bance Island where we passed the night. On approaching Tasso, we saw +a large alligator, which Mr. McCormack fired at, but apparently without +any effect. It is a well-known fact that the scales of these creatures +will turn a bullet. They abound in the river, and are very fearless +and ravenous. Some of the men belonging to the timber rafts, who +incautiously trusted themselves in the water, have been on several +occasions seized by the alligators and carried off, sometimes escaping +with the loss of a leg or an arm; at other times, when the people on +the rafts happened to sit at the sides, with their feet hanging over, +the alligators have been known to seize them by their legs and drag +them into the water. They have been taken of the enormous length of 18 +feet. + +_Wednesday, Sept. 26th_.--The night being very fine, we got up at +half-past two, and left Bance Island to return to Sierra Leone, where +we arrived in less than four hours, pulling the whole way, having a +very fine boat belonging to Mr. McCormack, with a crew of able bodied +blacks. + +Mr. McCormack related to me the following circumstance which occurred +to him in a vessel trading along the Gold Coast, and by which he was +placed in a situation of great peril. In the middle of the night he +heard a sudden cry of "Fire," and at the same moment a volume of flame +issued from the fore-hatchway; in a few seconds after another burst +forth from the main hatchway; so that before he had time to collect his +thoughts as to what ought to be done, the whole of the middle of the +vessel was in a blaze. The crew were thrown into consternation, and +speedily crowded the deck in a state of confusion, bordering on frenzy. +The despair of their situation was increased by a knowledge of the +fact, that a great quantity of gunpowder, which had been embarked for +the coast trade, was stowed below, while there was but one available +boat to get off the men before the ship should be blown into the air, +which they momently expected. But there was no time for reflection: +each man looked to his own safety, and a rush took place, through the +fire, towards the after-part of the deck, to reach the boat. The poor +fellows who thus risked a passage through the flames, that now curled +up fearfully, and swept the whole surface of the vessel, were +dreadfully burned, and looked more like demons than men. But, at last, +after much difficulty, they succeeded in lowering the boat into the +sea. Those, however, who got in first, seeing that the whole crew must +inevitably perish if they suffered a greater number to crowd the boat +than she could with safety contain, pushed off from the ship as +speedily as they could. If they had yielded to the impulse of their +feelings, every soul must have perished; for, although they might have +escaped from the fire, they must, of necessity, have swamped the boat. +Fortunately, however, the boat got off in safety; but she had made a +very short distance when the vessel blew up. Several poor wretches, +seeing that their fate was not to be averted, had leaped into the sea, +and were drowned; while others, who clung despairingly to the vessel, +were annihilated by the force of the explosion. One poor black boy, +nerved by desperation, flung himself overboard, and swam after the +boat, which, with great exertion, he overtook. Through Mr. McCormack's +interposition he was taken on board. The crew of the boat, so sudden +was their resolution taken, had not time to provide themselves with a +supply of provisions, although they were a considerable distance from +the shore: they snatched up such trifling articles as happened to be at +hand in the hurry of their departure, and trusted themselves to +Providence for the rest. This melancholy accident was occasioned by the +insubordination of some of the sailors, who forced their way through +the bulk-head into the fore-hold, to get at a cask of spirits. + +In the evening I accompanied Mr. Macauley in a drive to the village of +Kissey, one of the settlements of liberated Africans. Its population is +nearly a thousand souls, composed of the descendants of natives of Aco, +who were taken from a slave vessel on the river Lagos in the Bight of +Benin. The immediate neighbourhood of this village, which is about five +miles from Freetown, supplies a great part of the grain and vegetables +that are brought to that market. We called on the Doctor of the +village, who was a black man, and we afterwards went to the chapel, +where we heard a liberated African preach to his black brethren. + +_Thursday, September 27th_.--I dined with a party at the house of +Colonel Denham, the celebrated African traveller. I would gladly offer +a tribute of admiration and respect to the memory of this distinguished +gentleman, but the language of panegyric is superfluous. + +Our party consisted of the Lieutenant-Governor, Captains Owen and +Harrison, of the navy; Dr. Barry, of the medical staff, &c. &c. + +_Friday, September 28th_.--Soon after noon I accompanied Captains Owen +and Harrison, Mr. Reffle, the acting Judge, and the Rev. Mr. Davy, all +mounted on good steeds, to visit some of the villages established for +the liberated Africans. The first part of our journey was very hilly. +We passed through Gloucester and Regent Town, on our way to Bathurst, +near which we were overtaken by a thunder storm; but, before the +heaviest part of it reached us, we got into good quarters at Mr. Davy's +residence, where we found Mrs. Davy expecting us, and prepared to +entertain us in a most friendly and hospitable manner. This lady +undertakes to instruct the African females, of all ages, not only in +the mere education of letters, but in all the moral duties of civilized +society. As a proof that her efforts were not altogether unavailing, it +may be observed, that her domestics consisted of some of her pupils, +whom she had selected for the performance of the household duties. +Morality here is at a very low ebb amongst the adult native population, +and infidelity in the married state is a common occurrence. During our +short stay, a poor fellow came to complain to Mr. Davy that his wife +had gone to live with another man, and that when he went to demand her +restoration, the guilty paramour and his friends turned him off with a +sound beating. The circumstance did not seem to excite much surprise, +although Mr. Davy gave every possible attention to the poor fellow's +case, as he never omitted any opportunity of exerting his influence for +the moral benefit of the community. + +In the course of the day I had an opportunity of examining a snake +which a Timmanee black carried, as ladies wear boas in England, round +his neck, which is a common practice. It was about a yard long, and six +inches in circumference. The blacks frequently extract the teeth of +these reptiles, even those of the most venomous species, a process +which renders them harmless. In the evening we returned to Freetown. +The black ostler, who is generally a Krooman, performs in this country +a double duty, for he not only attends the horse in the stable, but +accompanies him on his journey, keeping pace with the animal at +whatever rate his master pleases to ride. This would be a very good +punishment for some of our ostlers who are in the habit of cheating the +horses out of their corn. To compel the rogues to share fatigue with +the animal, might teach them to treat them with more humanity. Horses +are sometimes brought to this country from St. Jago, but they do not +live long. A smaller and hardier breed comes from the Gambia, and the +climate seems to agree very well with them. Neither English nor St. +Jago horses live long at Sierra Leone, and the cause assigned for this +is, that the coarse grass, which grows so rapidly in this country, has +too little nutriment in it to support the animal under the exhausting +effects of such a climate; and it is observed that he is continually +though gradually wasting away, notwithstanding his appetite is most +voracious; that at length he partially loses the use of his hind legs, +becomes weak across the loins, and for the want of nervous energy, a +paralysis ensues, and the horse ultimately dies. But if he is given +more stimulating food there is a chance of his doing well; or at any +rate of his living much longer than he otherwise would on such poor +food as he usually gets. + +_Saturday, September 29th_.--The Henri Quatre, a beautiful brig, +arrived yesterday afternoon from the Bight of Benin, with 548 slaves on +board, a prize to H.M.S. Sybille. This vessel was afterwards fitted out +as a tender to the Commodore's ship, and well known, as the celebrated +Black Joke, for her success in capturing other slavers. To-day I +accompanied the Rev. Mr. Davy on board. A multitude of slaves crowded +her deck in a state of nudity. The spectacle was humiliating in every +sense, and the immediate effect upon the olfactory nerves was +excessively disagreeable and oppressive. We found the officer who had +charge of the vessel confined to a small space in the after-part of the +deck near the tiller. The pressure of this dense mass of human beings +was suffocating, and the crowd was so great that one poor slave who had +fallen overboard in the night, on the voyage, was never missed until +the following morning. + +From the Henri Quatre we went to visit a steam-vessel called the +African, which was to sail this afternoon, with 300 persons on board, +and as much provisions as she could stow. Her immediate destination was +Cape Coast Castle, where she was to wait the arrival of the Eden. She +had formerly been employed in the Colonial service on this coast, but +had lately been laid up for want of repair. Captain Owen, however, +being desirous to forward a number of mechanics and labourers belonging +to the free population of Sierra Leone, to the new settlement at +Fernando Po, thought that this vessel might answer his purpose, and +save Government the expense of chartering a ship expressly for that +service; he therefore applied to the Colonial Government requesting +that he might be allowed the use of her; which, after many preliminary +arrangements, occasioning much delay, was at last granted. One +condition was, that he should send her to England after she had +completed the service required of her. He therefore ordered Lieutenant +Badgeley, with a small party of men, to clear her out and prepare her +for sea, as she was at that time half full of mud and water, and +employed some mechanics to repair her engines, which were completely +out of order. + +At five this afternoon I went to the race course, to be present at a +private match between two gentlemen's horses. Besides these private +sports, there are regular annual races at this place. + +The roads, which are very much cut up during the rainy season, are +always repaired on its termination, commencing immediately after +Michaelmas. I found that there were gutters, which had been cut by +order of Sir Neil Campbell, (three or four feet deep, and from one to +two wide) in various directions, to carry off the quantity of water +occasioned by the heavy rains. The utility of these gutters in drawing +off the water was sufficiently obvious, but they were found to be very +dangerous both to men and horses in the dark; accidents frequently +occurred, and on one occasion a horse had his legs broken. They were +also dangerous to wheel vehicles, whenever it became necessary to cross +them: indeed, the inconvenience of these drains, without bridges, was +considered to be so much greater than the advantage, that it was +determined they should be filled up, and that the rain should be left +to take its own course over the surface of the ground, as before. The +magistrates, who are elected annually, are obliged to superintend the +repair of the roads, both in the town and its neighbourhood, in +addition to their ordinary duties; and all offenders who are sentenced +to labour on the public works, or to confinement in the house of +correction, are compelled to assist in the necessary repairs. The +expense of keeping the roads in good order is defrayed by a tax of six +days' labour on every inhabitant of the towns and villages in the +colony, which, however, may be commuted to a fine of seven shillings +and sixpence. + +After the race, I went to Mr. Barber's to dine. This gentleman has a +small plantation of ginger and arrow-root, which succeeds uncommonly +well; also some plants of the blood orange from Malta, and some young +cinnamon trees; which, I should observe, are by no means uncommon in +this colony. + +Mr. K. Macauley has also a small plantation of coffee, which prospers +very well. In fact, all the tropical fruits and plants must succeed +here, if proper attention be paid to them. + +_Sunday, September 30th_.--The morning was fine, but the afternoon +showery; rain, indeed, appears to be quite a matter of course, either +in the morning or evening. I had now been upwards of a month in Sierra +Leone, and I found that it rained without fail in some part of the +four-and-twenty hours, and sometimes throughout the whole day and +night; yet, the rainy season had nearly exhausted itself when I +arrived, and some short time before, it had rained for three weeks +without intermission. These alterations of the weather, however, had no +effect whatever on me, for, rain or shine, I went about, at all hours, +as much at my ease as if I had been in England; and instead of +suffering any illness or annoyance from the fluctuations and +uncertainty of the season, I really found my health improved. + +The brig Atalanta came down the river this morning, and anchored off +Freetown, having taken in a cargo of timber at Bance Island. There was +not a single vessel left up the river, which was remarked as an +extraordinary circumstance, for since the year 1816, when the contract +for African timber commenced, such an event had not taken place. + +From the observations I made while I remained at Freetown, it occurred +to me that a plan might be adopted, with good effect, for improving the +management of the timber trade. I should recommend that an old ship be +moored in the river, a little above Freetown, and housed over for the +purpose of receiving the crews of such vessels as go up the river to +take in their cargoes. The object of this arrangement would be to give +the crews an opportunity of refitting, rigging, and repairing the sails +of their own vessels, or of any others that might require assistance, +while the Kroomen were employed loading the ships under the direction +of the mates, or such other persons as might be appointed to that +duty.[17] By this plan (with a proper check to prevent the sailors from +going on shore too often, every reasonable indulgence being allowed +them on board the hulk) many valuable lives might be saved, and those +delays averted which now occur so often, from the difficulty of +procuring hands for the homeward bound voyage, to supply the place of +those who had been carried off by fever. + +_Tuesday, Oct. 2nd_.--On calling at the barracks this morning, to take +leave of the officers of the Royal African Corps, from whom I had +received some very kind attentions, I was sorry to learn that +Lieutenant Green, who had always been one of the most cheerful of the +party, had been taken ill with the fever that morning, and that, from +the great depression of his spirits, serious doubts were entertained of +his recovery. + +_Wednesday, 3rd_.--The ship Redmond arrived to-day from England, +bringing letters from thence up to August 23rd. His Majesty's ship +Eden, received on board to-day 60 black soldiers, of the Royal African +Corps, to perform garrison duty at Fernando Po, under the command of +Lieutenant Mends. + +A gentleman in charge of the ordnance died this afternoon. + +Before I take leave of Sierra Leone, a few general retrospective +glances at the colony may not be without interest. First, of the +population. There are not exceeding 110 Europeans in the colony, +two-thirds of whom are under 30 years of age. This may, probably, in +some degree, account for the great mortality that prevails amongst +them. + +In Freetown alone, there are between 5000 and 6000 coloured men, all of +whom are free. + +In the village of Kissey, three miles and a quarter from Freetown, are +contained 1,100 souls, all liberated Africans. + +In Wellington, six miles and a quarter from Freetown, about 800, +composed principally of liberated Africans, with a few disbanded +soldiers from the 2nd West India regiment. + +In Allen town, three miles from Wellington, about 150, all liberated +Africans. + +In Hastings, twelve miles from Freetown, 600, composed of liberated +Africans and disbanded soldiers. + +In Waterloo, nine miles from Hastings, 900, composed of liberated +Africans and disbanded soldiers. + +In Wilberforce, two miles and a half from Freetown, 100, all liberated +Africans. + +In York, twenty miles from Freetown, about 600, composed of liberated +Africans and disbanded soldiers. + +In Kent, twelve miles from York, about 500, composed of liberated +Africans and disbanded soldiers. + +In Gloucester, three miles from Freetown, 700, all liberated Africans. + +In Leicester, one mile from Gloucester, 100, all liberated Africans. + +In Regent Town, one mile and a half from Gloucester, 1000, all +liberated Africans. + +In Bathurst, two miles and a half from Regent Town, 1000, all liberated +Africans. + +In Charlotte, three quarters of a mile from Bathurst, 900, all +liberated Africans. + +In Bassa town, three miles from Charlotte, 130, all liberated Africans. + +In addition to these there are about 400 inhabitants at the island of +the Bananas, 100 at the village of Calmunt, and many others of whom no +correct amount can be given, residing at various little villages along +the coast, perhaps their entire number may be about 200; if so, it will +make the population of the whole colony about 15,000. The names of the +parishes to each town are as follows: + + St. George's in Freetown. + St. Patrick Kissey. + St. Arthur Wellington. + St. Francis Hastings. + St. Michael Waterloo. + St. Paul in Wilberforce. + St. Thomas York. + St. Edward Kent. + St. Andrew Gloucester. + St. Charles Regent Town. + St. Peter and James Bathurst. + St. John Charlotte. + +Freetown is well supplied with fish every afternoon at sunset, most of +which is brought in by boats that go outside the harbour in the +morning, and return in the evening. Unfortunately, there is an immense +number of sharks generally in the harbour, which sometimes commit great +depredations. + +Sierra Leone is about six miles within the cape of that name, and lies +at the entrance of the river. The town is laid out with great +regularity, and the streets are spacious. It is two miles in length +near the water-side, and about one mile in width, gradually ascending +from the beach to the hills at the back of the town. The intervening +space between a short distance beyond the extremity of the town and the +summit of the hills is principally unreclaimed forest land, which was +originally portioned out amongst the first settlers in the colony. From +want of means, however, or some other cause, the colonists never +cleared those grounds, nor did they offer them on sufficiently +reasonable terms to enable others to do so. This is the more +extraordinary, as it is generally supposed that if the wood were +removed, it would greatly improve the salubrity of the air in the town +and neighbourhood, as well as open a new source of profit to the +proprietors, it being already well known that all tropical productions +thrive most successfully in this soil. Coffee, cocoa, arrow-root, +sugar-cane, &c. have been tried with the utmost success. The houses of +the Governor, several of the respectable merchants, and some of the +natives, are built of stone. There is a church also, on a very +magnificent scale; indeed, so ambitious was the design of this +building, that the Colonial Government do not appear to have been able +to afford the expense of furnishing the interior, and have accordingly +run up an ugly brick wall in the centre, for the purpose of +appropriating one half of it to religious duties, and the other to +public offices. The church, as it was built, was evidently too +capacious for the congregation that was likely to attend the service of +the established religion, particularly as a great portion of the +population consists of Dissenters, who have men of their own colour and +way of thinking for preachers. I have heard some of their black +divines, but cannot say that I was much edified by their discourses. + +The following extraordinary letter from two master workmen, free +blacks, who were employed on the church, received by a Member of +Council, while I was on a visit to him, will serve as a specimen of the +advancement in education that some of these poor fellows have made. The +letter is given literally from the original. + + "_Sierra Leone, Sept. 18th, 1827_. + + "Honourable Sir, + + "I have the honour of sendin to you this morning with humble manner + I was to the Honour D. Denney yesterday, about the trouble what I + have, I was take work from the church-yard, and I finish it, the + gentlemen I must made petition and I cannot tell who will go to + please to help me from this trouble if I will get the money from the + gentleman. Shew me the way for get the money by your Honour all the + people what I hired I do not know how to do with myself--only you + one I know because I was under your brother if any trouble to much + for me I cry to you with humble manner I am poor black man-- + + "I remain + Your affectionately and obedient servant, + + "JOSEPH RICKETT and GEORGE DUNE, + _Sierra Leone Labourers_. + + "_To the Honourable + K. Maccauley, Esq. M.C. &c. + Freetown_." + +The original settlers of this colony, we learn from "Murray's +Historical Discoveries," consisted of about four hundred blacks, and +sixty whites, (the latter chiefly women of abandoned character,) who +arrived at Sierra Leone the 9th of May, 1787. These blacks, as is well +known, were part of those that went to Great Britain; having been sent +with the white loyalists, among the Bahama Islands, Nova Scotia, and +England, at the conclusion of the American war: and twelve hundred more +of the same description of American blacks agreed to leave Nova Scotia +for Sierra Leone, on terms proposed to them by the Sierra Leone +Company, where they arrived in March, 1792: and in December, 1793, +Lieut. Beaver arrived at Sierra Leone, with the few survivors that had +abandoned the colony of Bulama. + +The present inhabitants arc principally composed of negroes of a +variety of nations; Maroons from Jamaica, negroes who were captured or +had deserted in the American war, some from England, some from Nova +Scotia, some from disbanded West India regiments, and many prize +slaves, that come under the name of liberated Africans, who from their +industry and prudence have saved a little money and settled at Freetown +in various capacities. There are besides a great number of persons +residing here in succession under the denomination of strangers. These +are people from various parts of the interior of Africa, namely, +Timmanees, Foulahs, Mandingoes, &c. &c. There are also a great number +of Kroomen, formerly upwards of a thousand, but a late order in council +reduced them to 600, with the intention of introducing and encouraging +the liberated Africans to come forward as labourers, fishermen, +mechanics, sailors, soldiers, &c. &c. + +Sierra Leone has a large market-house, with a market held daily, where +the inhabitants may be well supplied with most of the tropical fruits +and vegetables, and some from Europe. Poultry is abundant and +reasonable. Beef and mutton are in most common use. The animals are +small, a quarter of beef weighing on an average between 50 and 60 lbs. +and a quarter of mutton from 5 to 8 lbs. Pork and lamb are seldom sent +to table, and I never met with veal. The colony is principally supplied +with stock, (viz. bullocks, sheep, and fowls,) by the Foulahs, +Mandingoes, Sousoos, and Timmanees. They carry the fowls on their head +in a large basket, and their necessaries in a sheep-skin bag fastened +on the top of it. Perhaps the reason why veal and lamb are but rarely +seen at table is in consequence of the bullocks and sheep having to +travel a considerable distance, and fresh pork is almost too gross a +food for a hot country. + +The trade with the nations of the interior is chiefly confined to the +Foulahs and Mandingoes, who bring small quantities of gold with them, +which they exchange for European articles to carry home. Their mode of +travelling to the colony is not a little curious. They first appoint +one of their number as head man, who is referred to on every occasion, +and who is answerable for the conduct of the whole. They generally come +down in numbers of from six to thirty, and sometimes more. Each man +carries on his head a kind of basket, made of the rattan cane, in which +is contained his shirt, a calabash, some rice, and a bag made of +sheep-skin, which holds the alcoran, some rice, bread, a knife, +scissors, and other useful articles; also a small pouch in which they +carry their gold, averaging about 5l. sterling each person. They secure +the bag by fastening the sides of the basket together, and binding it +round with strong twine which they make from grass. On the top of the +basket they tie their bow and quiver of arrows loosely, so that they +can get at them readily, in case they should be attacked in the woods +by wild animals, or by any of the different tribes whose settlement +they pass through in coming down. They also carry a bamboo cane about +six feet long, and three inches in circumference, with a piece of iron, +about six inches long, and sharp at the point, fixed into the end of +it; this they make use of as a spear. They also carry a long knife or +sword, which is slung over the arm by a belt. They partly live on the +wild fruits of the country, and occasionally get something at the +villages through which they pass; generally walking between the hours +of six and ten in the morning, and two and six in the afternoon each +day. When they arrive at Porto Logo, (which place is the termination of +their land journey) they engage a canoe to take them to Freetown, for +which they used to pay four dollars a head, but it is now reduced to +one, and this charge they are accustomed to levy afterwards upon the +merchant with whom they intend to deal, looking upon it as a bonus +included in the traffic. They also apply to the merchants in Freetown, +for accommodations during their stay, which is from ten days to a +month. They will not trade either on the first or second day, but go +round the town examining the different goods in the shops, and +ascertaining the prices. In this preliminary proceeding they are +assisted by their countrymen, who have been long resident in the colony +and are acquainted with the English language. These interpreters make +their living by cheating in every possible way, both the poor traveller +and the merchant. + +When they begin to trade it takes one day for the head man to settle +the investment of the gold in the merchant's hands, which he has +received individually from his companions, giving a separate receipt to +each: after which they all assemble to choose their goods to the amount +of each person's portion. This is an affair of three or four days. They +do not, however, think it necessary to leave the colony so soon as +their business is settled, but remain some time after idling about the +streets. Two or three days before they really intend returning by the +canoe to Porto Logo, the whole party call and say that they are going, +which is intended as a hint to prepare some present for them. They +repeat their visit the next day, and if they do not receive a present +from you, they address you in the following manner. "Friend," (calling +the merchant by his name, and holding out his hands with extended +arms,) "do you see my hands? do you not see that they are empty? When I +go back to my country, my countrymen will ask me if I have seen the +great merchant! they will say they doubt me, asking me, at the same +time, where are your presents? and if I have nothing to shew they will +call me a liar, saying that the great merchant never allowed any one +that went to see him, to go away empty-handed. I came from my country +on purpose to see you. True, I have brought you but little trade this +time, but when I go back to my country, and say I have seen the great +merchant, and shew them the presents I have received, then they will +all want to come, and bring plenty of trade." This of course concludes +with a present to propitiate the grasping spirit of the African petty +dealer. + +The goods principally preferred by the Foulahs and Mandingoes, are +powder, muskets, fowling-pieces, flints, swords, spear-pointed knives, +India blue baft, India white baft, India scarlet silk taffety, red +cloth, beads, and tobacco, which they make into snuff, being the only +manner in which they use it. + +The following amusing dialogue occurred between two sailors who +happened to be on the military parade when the soldiers were at drill, +going through the evolution of marking time,--a military manoeuvre by +which the feet, as well as the whole body of the person, are kept in +motion, presenting a similar appearance to that which they exhibit when +they are actually marching. One observed the other watching the +movements of the corps very attentively, with his eyes fixed and his +arms akimbo: "What the h-ll are you looking at?" he inquired. "Why, +Jack," replied his companion, "I'm thinking there must be a d--d strong +tide running this morning." "Why?" said he. "Why?" answered the other, +"why, because these poor beggars have been pulling away this half hour, +and have'nt got an inch a head yet!" + +The custom of sentencing soldiers to serve in the Royal African Corps, +must naturally be attended with bad consequences, not only to the +soldiers themselves, but to the natives. If we desire to enlighten a +savage race, we could scarcely devise a worse plan than that of sending +amongst them the refuse of a civilized country, who carry into the new +community, the worst vices and crimes of an old country. These soldiers +consider themselves to be exiled for life from their native land, and +as they entertain no hope whatever, under such forlorn circumstances, +of redeeming their character, they abandon themselves to debauchery, +and give a free vent to the most debasing tendencies of their nature. +The influence of this injurious example, which is a thousand fold more +powerful than all the precepts of the preachers, upon the minds of the +Africans, must be obvious. It weakens the effect, even if it does not +altogether obliterate the impressions of that morality which we so +studiously labour to inculcate. The African says, "The white man tells +us not to do those things which are wicked in the sight of God; yet, in +the same breath, he commits the very guilt against which he warns us. +The white man tells us that drunkenness is a crime in the eyes of God, +yet he drinks until his senses become stupified; he tells us not to +curse and blaspheme; yet the most terrible oaths are on his lips. Which +are we to follow? the white man's words or his actions?" If we wish to +command respect, and to impress upon the savage the real advantages of +civilization, we should send out only such persons as would be likely +to secure a complete influence and ascendancy over the uninstructed +people, and so demonstrate to them, by the force of actions, the purity +and stability of the Christian faith, the importance of education, and +the practical benefits of social organization. If it be necessary, as +no doubt it is, to send out Europeans to serve in the African Corps, +they should be sent in the capacity of officers, or non-commissioned +officers: privates of good character might be selected, who would +volunteer to go out on certain conditions, perhaps on some such terms +as these: to serve as corporal for a limited period, after which time, +if their conduct had been unimpeachable, to be advanced to the rank of +serjeant, when, having served in that rank for a prescribed period, +they might be permitted to return home on a pension. Two years might be +assigned as the first period of service, and three as the second, +making altogether a service of five years in Africa, which, considering +the opinion that is popularly entertained respecting the climate, might +be deemed of sufficient duration. I am aware that this suggestion is +liable to one objection arising from the prejudice that is generally +entertained against the climate, namely, the difficulty that would +arise, in the first instance, in obtaining volunteers; nor am I +entirely prepared to say, that the objection is without force. But the +plan might be tried, and the temptation which would be held out, by the +certainty of promotion, might, probably, be considered an adequate +compensation to the risk: and, in case any individual should have +conducted himself throughout the whole period of his service, to the +entire satisfaction of his officers, and should subsequently wish to +remain at the colony, it might be adviseable to offer him a small +government appointment, or, in some cases, the reward might be extended +to a commission in the Colonial Corps. If this could be carried into +effect, it would certainly be attended with considerable advantages; it +would procure respect for the British name, recall the savage from his +life of recklessness, and put a final stop to those disgraceful scenes +of profligacy which are so frequently witnessed in the streets of +Sierra Leone. + +Having requested my friend Dr. Barry, who was at the head of the +Medical Staff at Sierra Leone, to procure me what information he could +on the subject of vaccination and small-pox, in Africa, he most +obligingly forwarded me the following document, which, for the sake of +perspicuity, is put in the form of question and answer. + + _Replies to Dr. George Gregory's Queries on Vaccination and + Small-pox, Sierra Leone, 24th September, 1827_. + + 1st. Is vaccination generally practised among the infant negro + population? + + 2nd. Whence do they derive their stock of lymph? + + 3rd. What is the degree of confidence placed in it? + + Vaccination is not at all practised among the negro population, by + native vaccinators; it is, however, practised among certain branches + of the negro population by European surgeons; the negro population + of Sierra Leone consists of Nova Scotian, and Maroon settlers, + liberated Africans, and several of the aboriginal African tribes, + namely, Timmanees, Mandingoes, Soosoos, Boollams, Sherbros, &c. &c. + &c. The three first mentioned of these branches of the negro + population, having greater intercourse with Europeans, are better + acquainted with European customs, and have, of course, imbibed more + of European notions and prejudices, on such subjects as the one now + under consideration, than the aboriginal inhabitants of this part of + Africa; vaccination, therefore, is, and has been, practised among + them to a considerable extent, the stock of lymph being derived + from, and kept up by, frequent renewals from England. That their + confidence in it, as a measure preventive of small-pox, is great, I + judge from the anxiety which they shew, and the eagerness which they + manifest to have their children vaccinated when the small-pox is + raging around them; while, under ordinary circumstances, and when + their fears have been lulled by the absence of this fatal epidemic, + an absence which they well know is probably but temporary, they + exhibit such an unaccountable apathy regarding vaccination, that a + stranger might well suppose they had no faith in it as a + prophylactic measure; notwithstanding this, I believe they have + great confidence in it, although, from circumstances to which I + shall presently allude, that confidence has declined considerably. + + 4th. How soon does the arcola arrive at its greatest height in those + countries? + + The arcola surrounding the vaccine vesicle is, I think, at its + greatest height about the eleventh or twelfth day after vaccination, + if the lymph used has been genuine. + + 5th. Does small-pox prevail there? + + 6th. Does small-pox prevail there after vaccination? + + Small-pox prevails occasionally, and there are instances of its + having occurred even in a confluent form after vaccination: one + genuine instance of this kind came under my notice in the year 1824, + in the person of a liberated African girl, of about sixteen years of + age; vaccination had been performed in this case, by the late Dr. + Nicol, Deputy Inspector of Hospitals, and was considered + satisfactory; the case proved confluent; the secondary fever was + accompanied by a severe diarrhoea, which carried off the patient + about the thirteenth day. Another well authenticated instance of the + same fact, occurred in the early part of the present year, in the + family of a respectable Nova Scotian settler; other cases of a + similar nature have been reported by the inhabitants; but I do not + consider that, in these cases, the proofs of a pure previous vaccine + disease have been satisfactorily established; when vaccination has + been carried on for some time, from the same stock of lymph, the + disease is apt to degenerate and become spurious, from which cause + we require a frequent renewal of lymph from England, in order to + keep it in continuous and successful operation; the spurious + disease, on the fifth day, generally shews itself in the form of a + small globated papula; on the eighth day, it presents sometimes an + ash-coloured pustule, containing purulent matter; at other times, + and less frequently, a brown-coloured scale, having a small quantity + of purulent matter under it, capable of producing, by innoculation, + a disease similar to itself; the great prevalence of a disease among + the negro population, called "craw craw," is considered as + materially influencing that change in the properties of the pure + vaccine lymph, which has been just noticed: that apathy and + indolence of which I have already accused the negro population, + leads them to consider the appearance of disease in the arm, after + vaccination, as the test of safety from small-pox, great as the + difficulty sometimes is, in getting them to bring forward their + children for vaccination, it is still greater to procure the + examinations in its progress and maturation; the mere appearance of + disease in the arm, is supposed to carry along with it immunity from + small-pox; and, on the occurrence of the epidemic at an after + period, it may be easily foreseen how wretchedly and how fatally + this confidence in the spurious disease may be misplaced; I, + therefore, do not consider, that, in all the cases spoken of among + the inhabitants, as cases of small-pox occurring after vaccination, + there existed satisfactory proofs of the patient having previously + undergone the genuine vaccine disease; yet, I am sorry to say, that + from such occurrences as these, vaccination has rather lost ground + in the opinion of the negro population. + + 7th. Is small-pox an increasing malady? + + Small-pox is not an increasing malady; it is generally introduced + here from the slave cargoes of vessels detained by the squadron, and + sent here for adjudication; were this source of its renewal removed, + I am persuaded that small-pox would, in the course of a few years, + be almost unknown in this part of Africa. + + 8th. Can the vaccine virus be retained on points and glasses, so as + to be fit for use? + + The vaccine lymph, if taken on points, will not retain its virulence + seven days in this country: this observation is established by + repeated trials; if taken on glasses, I would not be disposed to + depend on its activity when kept longer than fourteen or sixteen + days, though I have known it sometimes to retain its original + properties for four or five weeks; if preserved in glass bulbs, + hermetically sealed, in the manner practised by the National Vaccine + Institution, I have known its properties unimpaired after keeping + for three months; repeated trials have convinced me of the + excellence of this mode of preserving the vaccine lymph, and, I + believe it to be the best and surest that has been yet devised of + transmitting the lymph from England to tropical countries: next to + this method, I believe the crusts have proved the most successful. + + 9th. Are the young negro population pitted with the small-pox? + + The negro population are pitted with the small-pox in the same + manner as Europeans. + + 10th. Are there periodical vaccinations of large districts? or, is + each child vaccinated soon after its birth? if the latter, how soon? + + The practice, in these cases, is, as long as the vaccine lymph + continues to produce a genuine disease, to keep it up by the weekly + vaccination of all comers. Children are rarely vaccinated under four + weeks old; but there is no rule observed on this head. + + 11th. What sort of scars are usually left in the arms? + + The scar bears the shape of the original vesicle, and is slightly + depressed below the surface of the surrounding skin; the surface of + the scar is marked by a number of small depressions of various + shapes, corresponding, I believe, with the cells in the original + vesicle. + + 12th. Is vaccination, in hot countries, attended with feverish + symptoms? and, if it is, on what day do they begin? + + Vaccination is, sometimes, in this country, attended with feverish + symptoms; but, in the most marked cases, so far as I have seen, + these symptoms have been so slight, as almost to escape common + observation. I have not remarked on what day they begin. + + 13th. Is vaccination ever followed by any eruptions? + + I have seen only one case of this: an eruption appeared on the sixth + day after unsuccessful vaccination; it was diffused over the whole + body, and is now in progress. + + W. FERGUSON, _Assistant Surgeon, Royal African Corps_. + + N.B. The case alluded to, in the last of the above replies, was, in + the first instance, papular eruption; the base of each papula being + surrounded by an inflamed ring; the eruption was thickest on the + thorax, and on the arms; in its progress, the eruption became + pustular, the pustules being in circumference about half the usual + size of the vaccine vesicle; on the twelfth day, the crusts had + dropped from some of the smaller pustules; and, by the seventeenth + day, they had all dropped off, leaving a mark, but not in any manner + pitted; and which, I think, promises to be permanent. + + W.F. + +_Thursday, October 4th, 1827_.--At length the day arrived when I was to +quit Sierra Leone, and I might say with some regret; for, during my +residence there, I had been very hospitably and agreeably entertained +by the principal government officers, as well as by several of the most +respectable merchants; and I had found a sufficient variety of objects +of interest, to yield ample occupation for the mind. I could have +desired to remain sometime longer, particularly as the fine weather, +and what is called the healthy season, was fast coming on, which would +have afforded me more time to examine and reflect on what was of +interest to the colony as well as to the mother country; but I was +conscious of a feeling of still deeper regret, and of a different +character from that of mere curiosity;--it was the pain of parting from +those whose kind sympathy had led them to take more than a common +interest in my pursuits, and to whose friendly and constant attentions +I was indebted for the advantages I enjoyed while I remained in the +colony. + +The apprehension, too, which was afterwards fatally realized, that many +of us should never meet again, was calculated to embitter my +leave-taking, even more poignantly. Of the friends who were then around +me at Sierra Leone, the greater number are now no more; the principal +persons amongst whom are the following: Colonels Lumley and Denham; Mr. +K. Macauley (member of council); Mr. Barber, Mr. Leavers, Mr. Reffel +(acting judge), Mr. Magnus (clerk of the court), Lieutenant Green, +R.A.C., and several gentlemen volunteers of the same corps. + +At daylight in the morning, just as the ship was preparing to get her +anchors up, a heavy tornado came on, and the rain continued for some +hours after the violence of the wind had subsided. Notwithstanding the +rain, however, Colonel Lumley, the Lieutenant-Governor of the colony, +and his private secretary. Lieutenant McLean, R.A.C., came on board at +eight o'clock for a passage to Cape Coast, where the Lieutenant-Governor +was going for the purpose of delivering the fortress of Cape Coast +Castle into the hands of the British merchants, who were to take +possession of it with a militia force, which they were permitted to +organize for their own protection: the Government allowing them a +stipulated sum to support the necessary establishment, at the same time +withdrawing the troops of the Royal African Corps, and all the +government stores, part of which were to be sent to Fernando Po, and +the rest to Sierra Leone or England. + +At ten o'clock we got under weigh, and made sail out of Sierra Leone +harbour. The Horatio, a schooner, which Captain Owen had purchased to +take provisions, mechanics and labourers to Fernando Po, was to have +sailed in company with us, but from some unaccountable delay, she did +not join us till we got to Cape Coast.[18] At noon, Cape Sierra Leone +bore E. 1/2 S. distance seven miles; and the Banana Islands S. 1/2 E. +The afternoon cleared up, and the wind was very light. From Sierra +Leone to Cape St. Ann, the course is S. 57 deg. E. distance 86 miles. From +Cape St. Ann to Cape Mesurada the course is S. 60 degrees E. distance +123 miles. + +---------- +[17] All the headmen understand enough of English to perform any +labour under the direction of Englishmen, and the Kroomen are a +hard-working body of men. + +[18] Fenao Gomez, a Portuguese, was the first person who rented a +monopoly of the trade of the Coast of Guinea, on consideration of +his paying 300 milreas per annum for five years; and he was to +discover 100 leagues of coast per annum, beginning at Sierra Leone. +He finished his discoveries at Cape St. Catherines. + + + + +CHAP. V. + +Cape St. Ann--Dangerous Shoals--Old Sailors--Liberia--Origin and History +of the Colony--Failure at Sherbro Island--Experiment at Liberia-- +Difficulties Encountered by the Settlers--Differences with the Natives-- +Final Adjustment--Improving State of the Colony--Laws and Morals-- +Remarks on Colonization + + +_Friday, October 5th_.--There was a moderate breeze from the westward, +and fine weather. At eight o'clock, finding, by our calculation, that we +had rounded the shoals of Cape St. Ann, we altered our course more +towards the land, intending to run along the Gold Coast, within sight of +the shore. These shoals are the most dangerous part of the west coast of +Africa; and there is good reason to believe that many vessels have been +wrecked on them, particularly in former times. There is but little doubt +that H.M. (late) ship Redwing was lost here, for there has been no trace +of her since the day she sailed from Sierra Leone, (the afternoon of +which was very squally) excepting a small mast that was picked up on the +coast, to the northward, with her name on it; and as she was bound from +Sierra Leone to Accra, she had occasion to go round these shoals, which +commence about 30 miles from Cape Sierra Leone. But there is an +additional cause for apprehending that such was her fate, for I was +informed by an officer, that he heard Captain Clavering say, that he did +not believe in the existence of these shoals; it is not improbable, +therefore, that, with an idea of shortening his passage, he might have +attempted to have gone nearer to them than prudence would justify, and +thus tempted the danger which he held to be apocryphal. They might also +have neglected to sound sufficiently often, an error which I have +frequently witnessed, and which arises from a mistaken wish to save +trouble and time--a poor excuse for risking the loss of lives and +property. I am sure this will not be the case with Captain Owen, for I +believe he knows the ground under water where his ship is in soundings, +as well as that which he sees above it; and among the jokes of the crew +of his ship, there was one on his late surveying voyage, uttered by an +old sailor, who said, that as soon as he was paid off, he would set up a +public-house in Wapping, with the sign of The Bag and Nippers,[19] and +the words "Watch, there, watch!" written underneath. Notwithstanding +this poor fellow's joke, he entered a second time with Captain Owen, on +board the Eden, for an equally hazardous voyage, which he did not +survive. I was near him in his last moments, when the fatal signal of +ebbing life--the rattles in the throat--fell on the ear like the +melancholy sound of the muffled drum in a dead march. + +_Sunday, 7th_.--Light airs and variable, with rain at times. Cape +Mesurada in sight great part of the day. Under the eastern side of this +Cape is the American settlement of Liberia. The origin and progress of +this colony present so many points of interest, that I am induced to lay +before my readers a succinct account of its early history. I am chiefly +indebted for the materials of this sketch to a pamphlet, which I +procured in Sierra Leone, published a short time before in Washington. + +The first efforts of the American Colonization Society were directed to +Sierra Leone in 1818, when two Agents were sent there to purchase land +for a new colony; on their arrival at their destination, two men of +colour, well acquainted with the coast, accompanied them on a voyage of +exploration. Having examined all the places which appeared suitable for +their purposes, they finally made arrangements for forming the new +colony on Sherbro Island, about 100 miles south of Sierra Leone, when +one of the agents returned to America, the other having died on his +passage. The Society now resolved to fit out an expedition immediately, +in which they were greatly aided by the President, the object seeming to +be well calculated to promote the political advantages of the United +States. The first colonists left America in February, 1820. They +consisted of two government agents, one from the society, and +eighty-eight persons of colour. These emigrants were very unfortunate: +they arrived just at the commencement of the rainy season, the _damps_ +of which were much increased by the unhealthiness of the low, marshy +ground of the Sherbro. The result was that all the agents, and a great +number of the colonists died; the remainder wisely abandoned a +speculation so fruitful of risk. Those people remained at Sierra Leone +until new agents were sent out, and another spot selected lor +colonization. The new scene of operations was Liberia. + +The territory on which the first settlement, of the colonists of Liberia +was made, forms a tongue of land of twelve leagues extent, in no part +more than a league in width, and in some parts contracted to half that +distance. This peninsula is so connected with the main land, as to +represent a scale beam, the narrow isthmus answering to the pivot; which +isthmus is formed by an acute angle of the Junk river on the eastern +side, that falls into the sea at the S.E. extremity of the peninsula +and an acute angle of the Montserado river on the western side, which +falls into the sea at the N.W. extremity. Thus the N.E. side of the +peninsula is washed by the above rivers; and the whole of the S.W. side +by the sea. The north-western termination of this linear track of +country is Cape Montserado, which towards the extremity rises to a +promontory, sufficiently majestic to present a bold distinction from the +uniform level of the coast. + +The town of Monrovia is situated on the inland side of the peninsula, on +the S.W. bank of the river Montserado, about two miles within the +extremity of the Cape. The original settlement approached within 150 +yards of the water, and occupied the highest part of the spiral ridge, +which traverses a large part of the peninsula, and rises at this place +to about 75 feet. At the time this territory was purchased by the agents +of the American Colonization Society, in December 1821, this tract of +land was covered by a dense and lofty forest, entangled with vines (a +very large description of parasitical plant, so called) and brushwood, +which rendered it almost impervious to new settlers. + +Opposite the town, are two small islands containing together less than +three acres of ground. The largest of these islands is nearly covered +with houses built in the native style, and occupied by a family of +several hundred domestic slaves, formerly the property of an English +factor, but now held in a state of qualified vassalage (common in +Africa) by a black man. + +This little community lives so entirely within its own resources, that +the individuals composing it are little known by their neighbours; their +utter indifference to whose politics, however, does not preserve them +from their dislike and envy, which, without the protection of the +American colony, would soon be converted into acts of oppression. + +There are four tribes in the neighbourhood of this coast, viz. the Deys, +who extend along the coast twenty-five miles to the northward of +Montserado, to the mouth of the Junk about thirty-six miles to the +south-eastward. Next, towards the interior, the Queahs, a small and +quiet people, whose country lies to the east of Cape Montserado. The +Gurrahs, a more numerous and toilsome race, occupying the country to the +northward of the upper part of the St. Paul river. And further into the +interior, the Condoes, whose warlike character renders them the terror +of all their maritime neighbours. + +On the beach, one mile to the north of the new settlement, there is a +small hamlet belonging to the Kroomen, a people entirely distinct in +origin, language, and character, from all their neighbours. They +originate from the populous tribe, whose country is Settra Kroo near +Cape Palmas, and are well known as the pilots and watermen of the +country. The number of families belonging to this hamlet, scarcely +exceeds a dozen, and may comprehend fifty individuals. + +The purchase of the Montserado territory being effected, it was first +occupied by such American emigrants as could be collected early in the +following year, at which time the indications of hostility exhibited by +the Dey people, demonstrated but too distinctly the insincerity of their +engagements with the new settlers, the first division of whom, +consisting chiefly of single men, were met with menaces, and positively +forbidden to land. This purpose they, however, effected upon the small +island of Perseverance, situated near the mouth of the Montserado, where +they were kindly received by Mr. S. Mill, an African by birth, who was +at that time occupant, and from whom the island had been purchased by +Dr. Ayres on behalf of the Society. + +After many ineffectual attempts to conciliate the friendship of the +Deys, the ferment of opposition seemed to have subsided, and Dr. Ayres +received an invitation to meet the chiefs at a friendly conference in +King Peter's town. This amicable appearance, however, proved to be a +mere _ruse de guerre_, and the doctor found himself a prisoner in the +hands of his faithless allies. Nor could he obtain his freedom until he +consented to receive back the remnant of the goods, which had been +advanced to the natives the preceding month in part payment for their +lands, but, in according this enforced compliance to their wishes, he +contrived eventually to elude their purpose of ejectment, by pleading +the impossibility of removing the emigrants until vessels could be +procured for their use. + +The individuals at this time upon the island of Perseverance, did not +exceed twenty persons. The only shelter for them and their store was +that afforded by half a dozen diminutive native huts; the island itself +was a mere artificial formation, which being always becalmed by the high +land of the Cape, was extremely unhealthy; it was also entirely +destitute both of fresh water and firewood--which circumstances, added +to the insalubrity of the air, and the closeness of their dwellings, +soon produced a sensible effect upon the health of the settlers. Happily +at this critical juncture a secret arrangement was concluded with King +George, (a monarch who claims the right of jurisdiction over the +northern district of the Peninsula) and by virtue of his authority the +settlers were permitted (in consideration of certain presents, +consisting of rum, trade-cloth, and tobacco) to cross the river and +commence clearing the forest for the site of their intended town. Being +stimulated to exertion, by the union of interest and self-preservation, +their labours proceeded with surprising rapidity, and in a very few +weeks presented the skeletons of twenty-two dwelling houses, ranged in +an orderly manner to form the principal street of their town. +Unfortunately, at this period, so promising to their hopes, and so +honourable to their assiduity, a circumstance occurred that interrupted +their avocations in the most painful manner, and plunged them into a +disastrous war with the natives. + +A small vessel, the prize of an English cruiser, bound to Sierra Leone, +and having on board about thirty liberated Africans, put into the roads +for water, and had the misfortune to part her cable and run ashore below +George's town, where she was in a few hours beaten to pieces by the +heavy surf. She was immediately claimed by the natives on behalf of +their king, whose alleged rights they came forward to maintain by the +force of arms.--In attempting to board, however, they were opposed and +beaten back by the prize-master and his crew. The American settlers, +perceiving the extreme danger of their English visitors, hastened to +their relief, bringing with them a brass field-piece, which they turned +against the assailants, who, terrified by so unaccustomed a mode of +warfare, hastily retreated towards their forest-bound hamlet, leaving +the English officer, his crew, and the Africans at liberty. The damage +on both sides was, however, considerable; on that of the natives it +consisted of many wounded men and two killed; on that of the strangers, +in the total loss of their vessel, with most part of their stores and +property; but on that of the settlers the injury sustained was fatally +severe, it consisted of the destruction by fire of their most valuable +and requisite stores, amounting in actual worth to three thousand +dollars: a loss incalculably increased by their necessities. + +The accident arose from some mismanagement of the fusee, used for the +cannon, a spark from which communicating with the thatch of the public +storehouse so rapidly spread into a flame, that it was only by the most +daring courage that the powder, some casks of provisions, and a few +other stores were rescued from the devastating element. + +The natives meanwhile, exasperated at the interference of the settlers, +and maddened by the sight of their wounded and dead brethren, were only +restrained from taking summary vengeance by the dread of the artillery. +Even this fear could not prevent their occasionally venturing near +enough to fire upon the settlers and their new allies,--these furtive +and for the most part futile indications of malignity, were, however, +always easily repelled by a single shot from a four or six-pounder, +which usually put the assailants for the time being to an immediate +flight. But it was not to this mockery of warfare with King George's +warriors that the annoyance of the settlers was limited. Many and +various were the vexations to which the hostility of the Deys subjected +the unhappy adventurers; in the mere act of obtaining water (for which +purpose they had to pass through the enemy's town) their obstacles were +endless. While the demolition of their unfinished houses, secretly +accomplished by their persecutors, and similar injuries constantly +practised, ultimately compelled them to discontinue their principal +work. At length the vigilant hatred of their savage enemies, resolved +itself into a mode of attack which robbed the settlers of all present +means of resistance.--Watching their opportunity when the boats went up +the river Montserado, in search of water, they sheltered themselves +beneath the large trees and rocks which overhung the narrowest parts of +the river, from whence they fired upon the boats at pleasure, alike +without the possibility of receiving any injury, or of their victims +avoiding the danger by a hasty retreat. In this adventure, one colonist +and an English seaman lost their lives, and two other persons were +slightly wounded. + +The recurrence of such events did not fail to keep up a spirit of +animosity between the Dey tribe and the colonists, whose principal crime +in the eyes of the natives, was their aversion to the slave trade; an +aversion which struck at the root of all the interest, fears, and +prejudices of the Deys. Old King Peter, the venerable patriarch of the +nation, and with whom the first treaty for the purchase of the ground +had been negotiated, was capitally arraigned and brought to trial on a +charge of betraying the interests of his subjects, by selling their +country. The accusation was substantiated, and it became doubtful +whether the punishment of high treason, would not be executed upon a +monarch, whom they had been accustomed to venerate and to obey for more +than thirty years. + +Under these circumstances the settlers became seriously alarmed +respecting the nature of the intercourse which might become necessary to +the policy of Bacaia, the king of the larger island, and from whom they +had received many proofs of friendship, in secret supplies of fuel and +water. But as his plantations, with numerous detached bodies of his +subjects, were entirety exposed to the power of the Deys, it seemed +absolutely requisite that his friendship with that tribe should not be +affected by any further acts of kindness to a people so inimical to +their views. Hence the suspicions of the colonists became naturally +excited against Bacaia. It appeared that the considerations which had +been so painfully entertained on the part of the colonists, operated no +less powerfully upon the mind of the chief; for he immediately summoned +to his aid one of the most powerful and famous chiefs of the Condoes, by +whose protection he had for many years been sustained in his dangerous +contiguity to such quarrelsome neighbours. + +King Boatswain, whose political influence over the maritime tribes of +the country was nearly absolute, and whose name had long been the terror +of his countrymen, replied to the request of his protegee with that +prompt alacrity which characterized all his actions, almost immediately +arriving in person, accompanied with an armed force sufficient to carry +into effect any measure that might seem most desirable to their chief. +He, with that apparent modesty in which extreme pride delights to dress +itself, and which is but another way of exhibiting innate confidence, +assured his allies,--that he came not to _pronounce sentence_ between +the coast natives and the strangers, but _to do justice to all_. He next +convoked the head chiefs of the neighbourhood to a meeting with the +American Agents, who were but just returned to the settlement, having +been absent during the last mentioned events, and principal settlers, +who on their part were required to set forth their grievances and the +nature of their claims. These complained of the dishonesty of the Deys, +in withholding the possession of lands which they had sold, and of the +hostile acts committed against the colonists by King George's people. +These charges were followed by a clamorous discussion on the part of the +accused; which the haughty judge having heard, as long as his patience +served, at length closed, by abruptly rising, with the remark, that, "as +the Deys had sold their country, and accepted a part payment for it, +they must abide the consequences of their indiscretion; and that their +refusal of the balance due to them could not annul nor affect the sale. +Let the Americans," said he, "have their lands immediately. Whoever is +unsatisfied with my decision, let him say so."--Then turning to the +Agents, "I promise you," said he, "protection. If these people give you +further disturbance, send for me. And I swear, that if they oblige me to +come again to quiet them, I will do it effectually, by taking their +heads from their shoulders, as I did that of old King George on my last +visit to settle their disputes." + +The necessity of an acquiescence in this decree, being by common consent +allowed, no farther opposition was offered by the natives, and the usual +interchange of presents having been effected, the colonists resumed +their labours with increased zeal and confidence. + +On the 26th of April, the colonists took formal possession of the Cape, +but unfortunately so much time had been lost in contesting with the +natives, that, notwithstanding all their industry, the rainy and tornado +season set in while the dwelling-houses were still roofless. In the +island sickness began to make terrible ravages; both the Agents were +among the sufferers, and it was soon evident, that unless a removal from +their insalubrious situation should be speedily effected, the +consequences would be finally fatal. Nor was this their only trial, for +in the midst of this appalling visitation, the gaunt spectre famine +reared its ghastly head, and threatened them with new terrors. In +circumstances so dispiriting, where despair seemed about to crash the +weakened energies of the labourers, and where nothing but activity could +preserve them from the loss of life; it was perhaps more honourable to +Dr. Ayres' benevolence than to his policy, that he proposed to convey +the settlers back to Sierra Leone. It is, however, a fact worthy of +record, as well as of admiration, that only a small part of the +emigrants embraced this proposal. The rest, consisting of twenty-six +persons capable of bearing arms, with a few women and children, together +with Mr. Wiltberger, the Society's assistant agent, remained to combat +the difficulties of their situation; thus nobly affording a pledge to +find for themselves and their brethren a present home, and for the +oppressed African, or the captured slave, a safe asylum on this once +hostile coast. + +The settled rains of the season now set in with unusual violence, and +the struggles and hardships endured by this little band cannot be easily +imagined. However, so great was their persevering industry, that before +the first of May several dwelling-houses had been rendered habitable, +with a small frame-house for the Agent; and a storehouse sufficient for +their purposes had been constructed of servicable materials. + +In the beginning of July the colonists completed their removal from the +island, each took possession of the humble dwelling that was henceforth +to constitute his home. The Agents had meanwhile both sailed for the +United States, leaving the settlement under the management of one of the +emigrants (Elijah Johnson of New York), who acquitted himself so much to +the satisfaction of the settlers that he now enjoys one of the most +respectable situations in the municipal government, conferred upon him +by the people. + +Still the most economical division of their rapidly diminishing store of +provisions, could not enable them to exist through more than half of the +rainy season, and as no present produce could be derived from the soil, +their prospects continued dark and dispiriting, circumstances which +derived no inconsiderable addition from the fact that their stores had +been reported to the managers in the United States as sufficient for a +twelvemonth's consumption. But, as though fortune, at length won to +admiration of their heroic fortitude, had determined to recompense their +sufferings, a vessel arrived, unexpectedly, with a moderate supply of +stores, and thirty-seven persons patronized by the Colonization Society. + +This vessel had encountered many difficulties on her passage, but she +arrived safely off Cape Montserado on the 8th of August, being the +middle of the rainy season; here Mr. J. Ashman, who had with a truly +philanthropic feeling undertaken the direction of this expedition, +received the first accounts of the departure of the Agents, and the +disasters of the colony. A fresh difficulty now arose in providing +dwellings for the newly arrived emigrants, as well as a larger and more +secure storehouse for transport stores. And it was not until after four +weeks of incessant labour that Mr. Ashmun had the satisfaction of seeing +the passengers and property all safely landed, and provided with shelter +to secure them from the rains of that inclement season. + +He next lost no time in ascertaining the external relations of the +settlement with respect to the temper of their neighbours, and for this +purpose proceeded to conciliate those kings whose alliance he deemed +most desirable. He encouraged them to trade with the colony, and sought +to establish them in amicable bonds, by receiving their sons and +subjects for the purposes of instruction in all those points which form +the basis of civilization. Yet, notwithstanding these pacific measures, +a hostile and malign spirit on the part of the Deys, could not be wholly +concealed. These symptoms rendered it advisable that measures of +permanent defence should be adopted, and on the 18th of August the +present Martello tower was consequently planned and the building +actively commenced. + +Their military force was, meanwhile, extremely slender, consisting of +not above thirty men capable of bearing arms. They had forty muskets, +but out of six guns attached to the settlement, one only was fit for +use, four of the remaining number being without carriages. There were no +flints, and but little ammunition. It was soon perceived that a system +of defence was to be originated, without either the materials or +artificers usually considered requisite, but undaunted by obstacles like +these, each difficulty seemed to stimulate the ingenuity of the +colonists to fresh activity and untried resources. + +With immense labour the guns were transported over the river, and +conveyed to the height of the peninsula, where they were mounted on +rough truck carriages. Thirteen African youths (attached to the United +States Agency) were next exercised in the daily use of arms. A master of +ordnance was also appointed to repair the small-arms, and to make up a +quantity of cartridges, as well as to arrange minor details for service. + +But their chief difficulties arose from the necessity of clearing the +heavy forest from the neighbourhood of the town, and of keeping a +constant nightly watch: a duty which required no less than the services +of twenty men; but, arduous as these were, they were carried on with +unremitting diligence by all whose health remained unaffected by the +climate. + +At the commencement of the third week after his arrival, the Agent was +attacked with fever; and, a few days after, his wife, whose affectionate +devotion had induced her to accompany him, was seized with symptoms +fatally. The sickness, from this period, made so rapid a progress +amongst the last division of emigrants, that, in a short time, there +were but two of their number who were not on the sick-list. + +Notwithstanding the domestic calamity, and the enervating debility which +bowed the energies and spirit of the Agent, he continued, at every +intermission of fever, to direct the operations of the colonists, and to +organize such a plan of defence as he considered necessary to secure the +safety of the settlement; so that, in the event of his death, they might +not be deprived of their security. + +To accomplish this purpose, five heavy guns were stationed at the +different points of a triangle, which enclosed the whole town; each +angle resting on a point of ground, sufficiently commanding to enfilade +two sides of the triangle, and to sweep over a considerable extent +beyond the lines. These guns were to be covered by musket-proof +triangular stockades, of which two would be sufficient to contain all +the settlers in their wings. The brass piece, and two swivels, mounted +on travelling carriages, were stationed in the centre, ready to support +the post exposed to the heaviest attack: these detached works were to be +all joined together by a paling, intended to enclose the whole +settlement; meanwhile, the Martello tower was to be carried on with all +possible speed; and it was hoped that this, when completed, would almost +supersede the necessity of the rest, and form an impregnable barrier to +the efforts of any native force; while the tangled brushwood, and +newly-felled trees, were to form a formidable and impracticable hedge +forest side. + +With all the details of this plan, the most intelligent of the colonists +were made familiar, so that they might be carried into effect for the +good of those who might happen to survive. + +On the 8th of November, while these warlike preparations were still far +from being completed, intelligence arrived at the colony, that King +George, who, with his people, had previously evacuated the neighbouring +town, and to whom the African youths had deserted, was advancing upon +the settlement with a force, composed of such people, from among all the +neighbouring tribes, as had the daring to set the authority of King +Boatswain at defiance. Happily for the colonists, they had a means of +acquiring intelligence of their enemy's deliberations and intentions, of +which that enemy was little aware; a circumstance which enabled them +effectually to guard against surprise, and of which the Agent took +advantage to press the necessity of coolness and determination upon the +attention of the men. + +On the evening of November 10th, the army of King George made its +appearance, at the distance of little more than half a mile to the +westward of the settlement, where it encamped for the night. The number +of warriors comprising this force, was generally estimated at nine +hundred; but, as the chiefs were the only persons who could tell the +exact amount, and each was afterwards interested to diminish the account +of their individual subjects, it is probable that the force was much +greater than it was allowed. + +The most wakeful vigilance was kept up by the settlers throughout the +night; but the out-piquet having imprudently ventured, in violation of +their orders, to leave their station at the dawn of day, were +immediately followed by the native force; who, suddenly presenting a +front of ten yards in width, fired a volley, and then rushing forward, +took possession of the post, towards which they had been so incautiously +led, and from which the men were driven without having been able to +discharge their guns. Had the enemy possessed the skill, or the +self-denial to have kept their advantage, the colonists must have been +utterly destroyed; but such was their avidity for plunder, that, +abandoning every thing for the pillage of four houses in the outskirt of +the settlement, they so far impeded and confused the main body of their +army, that the colonists had time to recover from their panic, and, by +keeping up a rapid fire with the brass field-piece, they brought the +whole body of the enemy to a stand. A detachment of musketeers, with E. +Johnson at their head, was, meanwhile, despatched round the enemy's +flank, which considerably increased their disorder, and, in about twenty +minutes, the main front of the assailants began to recoil, but from the +numerous obstacles presented to their rear, the entire absence of +discipline, and the difficulty of giving a reversed order, without +method, to so large a body, and added to all, the delay arising from +their practice of carrying off their dead, their retreat was, for a +time, rendered impossible; and the violence used by those in front, to +hasten this measure, only increased the difficulties of its +accomplishment. The colonists, perceiving their advantage, quickly +regained possession of the western post, and brought their long +nine-pounder to rake the whole line of the enemy, who, pressed together +into so dense a body, that a child might have walked on their heads from +one end to the other, remained thus defenceless, and exposed to the +destructive fire that was poured upon them by a cannon of great power, +at no more than sixty yards distance; every shot from this tremendous +engine did immense execution, and savage yells filled the forest with +horrible echoes. These gradually died away, as the terrified host fell +back. At eight o'clock the well-known signal for their retreat was +sounded, and immediately after, small parties were seen running off in +different directions. One large canoe, employed in carrying a party +across the mouth of the Montserado, venturing within the range of the +long gun, was struck by the shot, and several men killed. + +On the part of the settlers it was soon ascertained that considerable +injury had been sustained. One woman who had imprudently, and contrary +to express orders, passed the night in a house outside the +fortifications, and which happened to be at the point first attacked, +received thirteen wounds, and had been placed aside as dead, (after +incredible suffering she, however, recovered.) Another, flying from the +house with two infant children, received a wound in the head, and was +robbed of both her babes; but she herself providentially escaped. A +young married woman, with the mother of five small children, finding +their house surrounded, barricaded the door, in the vain hope of +resistance. It was forced, when each of the women seizing an axe, held +the barbarians in check several minutes longer; they were, however, +speedily overpowered, and the youngest stabbed to the heart: the mother +instinctively springing through the window to preserve her suckling +babe, providentially escaped, but the babe recoiling through fright, was +left behind and fell into the enemy's hands. + +It was not possible to ascertain the number lost by the enemy, but it +must have been very considerable, as it is calculated that the killed +carried away by water alone amounted to not less than 150. Many others +were conveyed along the beach on mats; and twenty-seven bodies were at +one period found by a party of friendly Condoes employed by the Agent to +remove them; and long after this action the offensive effluvia from the +wood proved that the researches of these persons were still incomplete. + +The numerical force of the settlers at this period amounted to 35 +persons, including six native youths not sixteen years of age. Of this +number, but one half were engaged. After this action it was determined +to contract the lines, and to surround the central houses, and stores, +with a musket-proof stockade, and before night more than eighty yards of +this erection were completed. + +The work was carried on with no other interruption on the following day, +than the necessary one of burying the dead: and was so speedily +completed that by the fourteenth of the month half the number of men +were, by the contraction of the lines, relieved from camp duty: thus +obtaining for each a larger portion of rest during the day, which +enabled them to perform their night watch with renewed vigour. An +additional gun was mounted and posted on the same day, and every hour +witnessed some progress in the discipline or defences of the colonists. + +It was at this period that a friendly message, accompanied by a small +present, consisting of the country's produce, sent by Prince Tom Bassa, +a chief of some distinction, inspired something like encouragement to +the hopes of the desolate little band; but it cannot be denied that +their despondency outweighed their hopes, on discovering that, exclusive +of rice, there remained but fifteen days provision in store. Each +individual was now placed on an allowance per diem, scarcely sufficient +to sustain animal strength, especially when such constant demands were +made upon their industry and vigilance. No supplies could be obtained +from the natives, in whose hands seven infant children were retained as +captives, added to which the enemy's troops, though repelled, had not +dispersed, and the colonists remained in daily expectation of a fresh +incursion upon their little territory; to complete all came the cruel +conviction that their stock of ammunition was insufficient to maintain +more than an hour's defence. + +These considerations, as well as the fear that the infant captives might +fall victims to their infuriated enemies, determined the Agent to make +another attempt to open a treaty for peace with the hostile chiefs, and +after great difficulty he succeeded in conveying a message to their +council (then in the act of debating a second attack), descriptive of +the wishes of the colonists to maintain peace, and of their equal +determination to oppose an invasion, with measures still more +destructive than those under which their assailants had already +suffered. These negotiations being unsatisfactorily entertained for some +time, a day of humiliation and prayer was set apart at the settlement, +after which the preparations for resistance were carried on as before. +Fortunately, at this juncture a trading vessel touched at the Cape, from +which the most pressing wants of the people obtained relief, and a few +days after, a still more bountiful supply was received through the +disinterested kindness of Captain Brassey of Liverpool, who, unsolicited +and without prospect of remuneration, nearly exhausted his own stores to +relieve the necessities of the sick and wounded, and presuming upon a +long acquaintance with the people of these parts, he undertook to +negotiate for peace; his efforts were however not successful; and +immediately after the departure of his vessel a considerable army +advanced upon the colonists; they, however, on their part were better +defended than on the former occasion, and although the force against +which they had to contend was more numerous and better disciplined than +before, yet as the forest in the neighbourhood of the town was now +converted into a wide plain, the assailants were obliged to approach +under a fire from the cannon, the rapidity of which to them appeared +like magic. + +The natives sustained these destructive measures with surprising +fortitude and perseverance; several times throwing themselves on their +faces to allow the shots to pass over them, and renewing their own fire +immediately after each discharge. But a contest so unequal could not be +long maintained--in seventy minutes from the commencement of the attack +a final victory was accomplished; and the terrified fugitives dispersed +as suddenly as they had appeared, many throwing themselves into the +water and diving to avoid the shots that were fired after them. The loss +on the part of the natives was supposed not to be greater than upon the +former occasion, but its results were longer and more fearfully +remembered. Three men belonging to the colony, serving at the guns on +the eastern post were wounded, Gardiner and Crook dangerously, Tines +mortally; the Agent received three bullets through his clothes, but +providentially escaped without any bodily hurt. + +There was at this time but little surgical knowledge, less skill, and no +instruments at the settlement. Its dispensary was liberally furnished +with James's powders and febrifuges; but for broken bones, and +extracting pieces of pot-metal or copper ship-bolts from shattered +limbs, there had been no provision whatever. A dull penknife or razor +were substituted for lancets; and for probes there was nothing to be had +but pieces of priming wire; the sufferings of those compelled to carry +in their cankering wounds the corroding metal, were indescribably +afflicting; and served to exemplify, most completely, the cruelty of +placing men subject to the casualties of war, beyond the reach of +surgical assistance. + +A movement on the following night, supposed to indicate hostility, +induced the officer, on duty at the western post, to open a pretty brisk +fire of musketry, with several discharges from the large guns. This, +however, proved a most fortunate circumstance, for it was not only the +cause of bringing immediate relief to the settlement, but was finally +productive of the most beneficial results. + +The English colonial schooner, Prince Regent, laden with military +stores, having as passengers Captain Laing of the Royal African Light +Infantry, and a prize crew commanded by Midshipman Gordon, belonging to +H.B.M. sloop of war, Driver, six days from Sierra Leone, bound for Cape +Coast, was at the time in the offing (a little past the Cape). So +unusual a circumstance as cannonading at midnight could not fail to +attract notice, and the vessel lay to till morning, when a Krooman +carried on board intelligence of the situation of the settlement, and +was immediately despatched on shore with offers of assistance. + +On the following day the officers landed, and kindly undertook to +mediate on behalf of the colonists. An interview with the native Chiefs +was without much difficulty procured, their warriors having dispersed, +and themselves being overwhelmed with vexation and shame. After a little +show of affected reluctance, they were easily induced to sign an +instrument by which they became bound to observe an unlimited truce, and +to refer all their future differences with the settlers to the +arbitration of the Governor of Sierra Leone. It is scarcely necessary to +remark that having no real grievances to submit, they never had recourse +to this provisionary reference; from which time the colony has been +considered invincible to native force, and consequently has been +permitted to prosecute its plans in the utmost tranquillity, +uninterrupted even by the semblance of war. + +The death of the amiable and lamented Gordon, with eight out of eleven +generous seamen, who volunteered their services to remain on the +settlement to guarantee the truce settled by Captain Laing, was the +first event that occurred to interrupt the general joy that prevailed +after the consummation of peace; these gallant fellows all fell victims +to the climate, within four weeks after the departure of the Prince +Regent, on the 4th of December. + +On the 8th of the same month, the colonists received fresh assistance +through the friendly offices of Captain Wesley and his officers, whose +vessel, a large privateer schooner, under Columbian colours, came to an +anchor off the town. By the aid of mechanics, obtained from this vessel, +the settlement was put into a superior state of defence, while the +sufferings of the wounded were alleviated by the assiduous attentions of +a skilful surgeon. After conferring upon the settlers countless +obligations during a term of four weeks, Captain Wesley's vessel sailed, +bearing with it the sincerest wishes of a grateful people. + +The Agent's health, which had promised improvement, sunk into a state of +hopeless debility, and by the 16th of December, medicines utterly failed +to produce any beneficial effect. It was at this period that a remedy of +the most singular nature was presented to him by a French charlatan, +who, accidentally touching at the Cape, offered his services; a drowning +wretch it is said will catch at a straw, and from despair rather than +hope the Agent submitted to his adviser, and consented to try the +effects of his prescription. A potion, was accordingly prepared, of +which one ingredient was _a spoonful of calomel_! Having administered +this, the Frenchman proceeded on his voyage, leaving the patient to +abide the consequences of his docility. Such, however, was the weakness +of his system, that he could neither throw it off, nor take it into +circulation for five days. The crude poison was then voided, and a +distressing salivation ensued, in the course of which all other morbid +symptoms disappeared: by the middle of February, he was restored to +health and the active duties of his station. Two out of the number of +captive children had been delivered up for a small gratuity; five still +remained, for whose release an extravagant ransom was demanded, terms +steadily rejected by the colonists. It speaks well, however, for the +humanity of the natives, that their first object had been to place these +young prisoners in the care of experienced nurses. These protectresses +so entirely won the affection of their charges, that when the chiefs +determined eventually to restore them unransomed to their parents, they +were obliged to be taken from their nurses by main force. + +The long illness of the Agent, had relaxed the principle of industry and +order, which he had been so anxious to establish; and on his recovery he +found that it required all his influence to rouse the colonists into +those exertions, which were necessary to secure their comfort, and the +safety of their stores, during the rainy season. The huts were still +without floors, and except the storehouse there was but one shingled +roof, so that through the thatch of nearly all, the rain could easily +penetrate in continued streams. + +The store of provisions was now consumed, and still remained +unreplenished by any shipment from America, while the neglect of +effective financial arrangement on the part of the Colonization Society +at home, rendered it difficult for the Agent to make purchases from +occasional vessels, and he had already a larger pecuniary +responsibility, than as an individual he could justify either to himself +or others; the productions of the country had been rendered available, +but the few disposable goods which the settlers possessed were now all +exhausted in their purchases. + +Matters had arrived at this extremity, when, on the 12th of March, the +welcome intelligence of the arrival on the coast of the U.S. ship Cyane, +R.T. Spence, Esq. was announced, by a Krooman from Sierra Leone. By the +judicious and indefatigable exertions of that officer, the hulk of the +dismantled and long-condemned schooner Augusta, was again floated, and +metamorphosed into a seaworthy and useful vessel, on board which Captain +Spence placed a crew and a quantity of stores for the new settlement, +under the command of Lieut. Dashiell. Not satisfied with these important +services, he rendered the Agent's house habitable, and caused the +Martello tower to be completed, chiefly by the labour of his own crew, +before the 20th of April; and it is to be deeply regretted that the +sickness which had begun to make fearful inroads in the crew of his +ship, during her stay at the Cape, terminated in the death of no less +than forty persons, soon after her return to America. + +Dr. Dix, the surgeon of the Cyane, became the earliest victim of a too +generous zeal for the advancement of the colony. The tears of gratitude +fell upon his grave, which was closed over his remains by the hands of a +sorrowing community. The case of the amiable Seton is still more worthy +of memorial, in him the blossoms of youth had just ripened into the +graceful bloom of manhood, giving to a person naturally prepossessing, +the higher ornament of a benevolent disposition, and accomplished mind. +He perceived that his services would be invaluable to the colony, and he +became the voluntary companion of the solitary Agent. His conciliating +manners, and judicious counsels, completed the conquest of public +approbation, and rendered his decease (which took place on board the +Oswego, five days after he had re-embarked for the United States), a +subject of unmitigated grief to the whole colony. + +The arrival of the above-mentioned vessel, bringing an accession of +sixty-six emigrants from the middle states of America, with ample stores +and a physician, terminated the difficulties of the colonists, and since +that period, the settlement has continued rapidly improving in all those +resources necessary to the comforts of peace; as well as in those means +of defence which serve, at once, to repel, and even defy the incursions +of war. + +From this period the affairs of the colony have rapidly improved. In a +short time after peace was restored, sixty-one new emigrants, and a +supply of stores, under the charge of Dr. Ayres, augmented the resources +of the colonists; but that gentleman was obliged, in consequence of the +state of his health, to resign, at the close of 1823, the +superintendance of the interests of the colony to Mr. Ashmun, who +continued, until the period of his death, to act as principal Colonial +Agent to the Society. To Mr. Ashmun's admirable management of the +affairs of the colony, much of its contentment and security may be +attributed. He purchased from its natural owners, all the territory he +occupied; and as not an acre was taken without an equivalent, the +natives were well pleased to cultivate an intercourse that was at once +so profitable and desirable. In 1825, a number of fresh emigrants +arrived, whose pursuits were of an agricultural nature, and as they +desired to go into the jungle at once, and commence operations, a +negotiation was opened with the neighbouring tribes for the purchase of +land. The ground selected was a tract of about twenty miles, varying +from one to three miles in breadth, lying on the navigable part of the +St. Paul's river. The advantages of this accession of territory, +consisted in the opportunity it afforded the settlers of dwelling on +their plantations, instead of being compelled to live in the town, at an +inconvenient distance from them; in the fertility of the soil, which was +sufficiently rich to enable the emigrant to support himself and his +family, a short time after his arrival; in making the agricultural +settlement more available and compact; and in securing the trade of the +St. Paul's river, which was an object of great importance. Subsequently +to that period, other additions have been made to the possessions of the +colonists; and, at present, the colony extends nearly 150 miles along +the coast, and a considerable distance into the interior. The government +of the colony commands eight trading stations, established on the +purchased land for the convenience of, and intercourse with, the +natives, from Cape Mount to Trade Town; and the prospects and advantages +of the colonists, are every day improving. + +The laws by which a colony so prosperous and happy is governed, must +suggest a subject of deep concern to every man who is interested in any +project, that has for its end the promotion of the well being of any +section of his fellow-creatures. In this little colony, which has +succeeded so effectually in securing the confidence and attachment of +the natives, the utmost vigilance appears to have been exercised from +the commencement, to prevent any dangerous precedents from being +established, that might afterwards be cited for the defence of customs +injurious to the interests of the settlers. One of the first principles +adopted, even before the regulations by which the colonists were +governed assumed the tangible shape of law, was that all persons born in +the colony, or residing in it, should be free, and enjoy all the rights +and privileges of citizenship known to the United States of America, +which was taken as the model of the Liberian Constitution in all +respects, except that anomaly, the institution of slavery. It must +always continue to be a matter of surprise and regret, that a country +which expended so much blood on the purchase of its independence, should +sanction within its boundary the existence of slavery as a legal right. +The ermine is said to die if a single stain fall on its spotless skin, +and one would suppose that the giant republic of the new world would be +equally susceptible throughout her mighty frame of the taint of slavery; +but, perhaps, there is a fine moral in the fact, to shew us that the +works of man, even in his most elevated inspirations, must of necessity +be imperfect. The wisdom and power of the Godhead alone can produce +perfection. + +The colonists of Liberia resolved to avoid the error of the parent +country. They began by banishing the very name of slave, and they have +persisted in their resolution to keep themselves free. Under the +provisions of their constitution, the Colonization Society is empowered +to make such regulations as may appear requisite for the government of +the colony, until it shall withdraw its superintendence, and leave the +colonists to govern themselves; the common law, as it is in force in the +United States, is applied to the jurisdiction of Liberia. In 1824 a +regular plan for the civil government of the colony was drawn up, and a +digest of laws framed, which have been approved of, and are now in full +operation. By this plan, the Agent is invested with sovereign power, +subject only to the decision of the colonial board; municipal and +judicial officers are appointed; the choice of certain offices is vested +in the colonists, subject to the approval of the Agent; and standing +committees of agriculture, of public works, of colonial militia, and of +health are appointed, whose duties are clearly defined and rigidly +enforced. + +The criminal code is singularly mild: the highest degree of punishment +being expulsion from the colony, which is a very beautiful +exemplification of the sense of honour and integrity that the colonists +entertain, when, for the most flagrant violations of civil rights and +good order, they deem it a sufficient disgrace and infliction to cast +out the guilty person from all further communion, the property of the +exile being given to his heir; or, in lack of an heir, reverting to the +general stock. + +The remarkable success which crowned the efforts of the settlers in +Liberia, has subsequently led to the consideration of more extensive +plans for the establishment of colonies for liberated slaves. Of course, +in proportion as the circle of manumission is enlarged, the provision +for the future welfare of the emancipated blacks must he increased:--with +a double view, therefore, not only to prepare adequate settlements for +their reception, but by the exercise of an active liberality to +encourage the spirit of freedom which was found difficult of +accomplishment at first, but which ultimately yielded to the energies +of the opponents of the slave trade in America. Many attempts had been +made in the United States to abolish, or at all events diminish the +practice of slavery, bat in vain; for it appears, however startling and +apocryphal the statement may seem, that the English Government, during +the period that they exercised sovereignty in the Union, always refused +to sanction the abrogation of slavery. Even so far back as 1698, the +mother country rejected a proposition made by the assembly of +Pennsylvania, to levy a duty of 10 per cent. per head on the importation of +slaves; which was intended to operate as a prohibition. Indeed, one of +the proximate causes of the Declaration of Independence (July 1776) was +the unrestricted introduction of slaves. Soon after the American war +had terminated, it was suggested as an appropriate measure, in +fulfilment of views which had been so long defeated by the influence of +English authority, to establish a colony on the coast of Africa, but +the continued pursuit of the degrading traffic by almost all the powers +of Europe, prevented the benevolent projectors from carrying their +design into effect. Twenty years afterwards, the plan was revived, and +the most strenuous exertions were made in the different States to +organize a body of opinion, which should finally triumph over the +self-interests and reluctant morality of the slave-owners. At this +period, one of the difficulties which the philanthropic abolitionists +experienced was the want of a suitable refuge for such slaves as they +might be enabled to liberate. The legislature of Virginia, which +contains nearly one-third of the black population of the Union, pledged +itself to release all its slaves, if Congress would undertake to +provide an adequate asylum for them. President Jefferson negotiated in +vain for a territory in Africa, and the Brazils. The legislature of +Virginia again renewed its pledge, and as much of the bigotry of former +times had now been obliterated by the diffusion of enlightened +principles, the renewal of the proposition was followed by the best +results. General Mercer, familiarly designated as the Wilberforce of +America, opened a correspondence with the principal advocates of +emancipation, which ultimately produced the formation of the American +Colonization Society, on the first of January, 1817. The labours of the +Society were greatly facilitated by the laws of the Union, which left +to each State the uncontrolled power of legislating for itself on the +subject of slavery. The members of the Society had therefore merely to +address themselves to the humanity and understanding of the +slaveowners, in order finally to attain their purpose. The progress of +moral truth, however slow, is always certain, and the issue of those +proceedings has been such as the excellence of their object might have +led us to anticipate. Several of the States have already signified +their willingness to forego all the pernicious advantages of slavery. +And the number of slaves offered gratuitously by owners in different +parts of America, vastly exceed the present means of the Society to +provide for them in Africa. The legislature of Maryland appreciate so +highly the utility and importance of the settlement of Liberia, that +they have voted in the first instance a considerable sum, to be +appropriated annually to its support, and have subsequently, within the +last six months, voted two hundred thousand dollars for the purpose of +assisting in the formation of another settlement on the same +principles. + +It is, therefore, sufficiently evident, that what is now required to +complete the united objects of manumission and colonization, is, not so +much the consent of the slave-owners, as the power of carrying the +design into operation. Mr. Elliot Cresson, of Philadelphia, an active +and enthusiastic supporter of the cause, visited England in 1832, for +the purpose of drawing attention to the subject, and of appealing to the +well-known generosity of a country that has uniformly taken the lead in +advancing the interests of civilization. A Society was formed, under the +patronage of H.R.H. the Duke of Sussex, with the view of extending +colonization in Africa, on the same system which has proved so +successful in the case of Liberia. The subject, unfortunately, did not +excite the attention which might have been anticipated, partly, I fear, +because it was ill-timed, and was considered by the general body of +Abolitionists, as a diversion tending to distract the public mind from +the great question of emancipation, which was then undergoing anxious +discussion; and partly, because it was considered by some, as a +palliative likely to prolong the existence of slavery, in the same ratio +as it diminished its evils. The selection of so unseasonable a moment +for introducing the subject to the public, was influenced by the +necessity Mr. Cresson was under of returning to the United States, but +previously to his departure, the objections to the efforts of the +Society were fully answered, and the important fact of the independence +of each State, in reference to slavery, was stated in ample detail. From +those statements it appeared, that the law of slavery, in some cases, +prohibits--not only the emancipation; but the education of slaves, in +order to render their bondage still more hopeless and oppressive: but +that the efforts of the Society were gradually abating the rigour of +those cruel restrictions. The Society has hitherto endeavoured, as far +as its powers would permit, to extend the principle of colonization, by +removing, invariably, with their own consent, such slaves as have the +good fortune to obtain their freedom, to a spot where they were not only +free from competition with the white population, but where their +education, imperfect as it might have been, rendered them the superior +instead of the inferior class: thus silently promoting the blessings of +Christianity and civilization amongst the native tribes. Mr. Cresson, +during his residence in England, distributed several illustrative +documents, sanctioned by names of distinguished persons in the United +States, and to which I am indebted for some of these particulars. From +these documents, were there even no other evidence, it may be fairly +inferred, that Liberia affords uncontrovertible proof of the +practicability of establishing colonies on the African coast, composed +of persons of the African race, nearly, if not wholly, freed from the +control of the whites; that the expense of establishing such a colony is +moderate, not having exceeded, in the case in point, 4000l. per annum; +that it is greatly favoured by the natives, with whom the colonists are +rapidly extending their commercial and friendly relations to their +mutual benefit; that it has not only placed a large number of manumitted +slaves in a prosperous situation, but led to the emancipation of many, +who must otherwise have still continued in bondage; and, finally, that +it has completely put an end to the slave-trade in the immediate +neighbourhood of the settlement, where that nefarious traffic was +hitherto most extensively prosecuted. It is to be deplored, that +although Great Britain has recently made a noble effort to abolish +slavery in her own dominions, there are other countries which still +sanction a usage so degrading to our age and religion. But a very short +time since, several vessels were captured, the united cargoes of which +amounted to a thousand slaves, and when we refer to the large proportion +which the liberated Africans bear to the rest of the population in +Sierra Leone, equal to about three-fourths of the whole, and consider +the heavy expense at which this country endeavours to fulfil the serious +responsibility it has taken upon itself in the liberation of these +unfortunate captives, I am persuaded that all the particulars which can +be collected respecting Liberia, will be deemed worthy of the most +serious attention. My readers, therefore, will not, I trust, think that +I devote too much space to the subject, if I close my rapid sketch of +the progress and fortunes of this settlement, with the latest +information respecting it, which has been received in Europe. It is of a +very recent date, and is from the pen of Dr. Mechlin, the Governor of +Liberia:-- + + "The colony is daily adding strength and respectability to its + character, and if even now all patronage were withdrawn, the colonists + are fully capable of sustaining and defending themselves from any + assaults of the natives, and regulating their own concerns in such a + manner as to secure the prosperity of the colony. A court, courthouse, + and trial by jury, are established. At this moment, since the + departure of Governor Mechlin, and until the new Governor arrives out, + there are none other than blacks among the inhabitants of Liberia. + + "The slaves who were captured and brought into St. Augustine, and Key + West, after remaining in the United States from six to twelve months, + were sent to Liberia, a quantity of land being granted to them there. + They have gone on to cultivate it in a manner equal, if not superior, + to that of the colonists. They have been able to accomplish thus much + from what experience they gained while in this country. These people + arrived at Liberia naked; they have clothed themselves from the avails + of their labour, and, what is rather singular, they have gone into the + town to seek out for themselves wives, esteeming themselves too far + advanced in civilization and refinement to form connexions among the + natives, although they might obtain from among them much more comely + persons than they are enabled to find among the very meanest of the + colonists, from whom they are obliged to select. This fact alone + shows, that but a small degree of civilization infused into this + people, tends to the elevation of their character. + + "The colonists of Monrovia are said to be much more inclined to trade + than to cultivate the earth. The English and the French vessels which + come there, have engrossed almost the whole trade of the colony, the + Americans not being able to compete with them. Many of the natives + come into the town, and are employed as labourers by the colonists. + The colonists also receive some of the children of the natives into + their families, and send them to school. At different times the + natives have made three or four attacks on the settlements, but have + always been repelled with spirit; for the last year the natives have + been very quiet and friendly. The colonists can bring into the field, + if necessary, about 500 troops, which are considered a match for ten + times the number of natives. Many tribes of these natives hold slaves, + which are treated with much cruelty, and it is doubtful if even their + masters are so well off or so happy as the slaves in our southern + states. They are much less civilized and more ignorant. + + "The people there called Kroomen, reside in the country. They come + down to the sea-shore and pitch their tents, and launch their canoes, + and, sailing all along the coast, they become pilots to the traders; + and these are the men with whom the Spaniards trade for slaves. These + Kroomen keep no slaves themselves, neither do they allow any of their + own tribe to be sold as slaves; and they become of so much importance + to the slave-dealers on the coast, acting as a sort of brokers, + negotiating among the tribes for slaves, that they themselves, knowing + their own consequence, do not hesitate to board a slave-vessel, and + there is no instance of their ever being kidnapped." + +The history of this little colony, which I have endeavoured to sketch +from the information furnished by Mr. Ashmun, appears to me to afford +matter for serious reflection. The principle involved in colonization +is, I am aware, liable to some objections, and I am not indifferent to +the arguments to which it has given occasion. But the strength of truth +and reason seems to be altogether in its favour. The dogmas of Malthus +maybe right or wrong, the statistical propositions of Mr. Sadler, and +the philosophical deductions he derives from them may be right or +wrong: with these querulous rhetoricians, I have nothing to do. But one +thing is certain, that while the fertile earth, in any of its endless +divisions, affords the means of sustenance, no human being ought to be +suffered to want, because the notion of emigration does not square with +certain opinions of a despotic school. That some countries are +overpopulated in reference to the resources of their superficies is, I +take it for granted, a fact above impeachment. That there is room +enough on the surface of the earth for all the population it contains, +is another truth which very few persons will be hardy enough to +contest. The principles of Providence in the economy of space appear, +therefore, to be that the superabundant population of one place, shall +seek in the uncultivated and scantily peopled regions of other +countries, for those means of existence which are denied to them by the +pressure of the demand on the soil at home. The immutable law of +benevolence, drawn from the institutes of Christianity, ordains the +earth for the sustenance of man. But that law is perverted by those who +resist emigration under the circumstances to which I have alluded. What +is to become of the surplus population, if it be not allowed a space +wherein to fertilize the virgin soil, and supply its wants? If its own +land denies it the means of life, must it die, that some philosopher +may triumph in his doctrines? + +It is very true that colonization frequently terminates disastrously, +and that instances might be cited, in which emigrants have suffered +terrible privations, and have even fallen beneath the insalubrity of +unaccustomed climates. But these cases merely prove the necessity of +adopting sufficiently precautionary measures, before the emigrant +commits himself to a venture, upon which the happiness and interests of +himself and his family altogether depend. If a man rashly goes out +uncovered, and exposed, into a storm, he will surely run a chance of +catching an illness: so too, if a man penetrate to the tropics, and +carry with him the habits of England or France, he will certainly peril +his life, for these habits are unsuitable to places where a vertical +sun pours down its scorching rays upon the body. Every climate requires +especial modes of conduct for physical constitution. Brandy and water +might be a very good beverage, and even a medicinal protective at the +North Pole, but it would be ruinous if taken in excess at Sierra Leone. +It is because emigrants do not sufficiently study the situation to +which they bend their steps, that they so often complain of failure. We +have seen in the first expedition from the United States, that the +project terminated fatally for nearly all the colonists; but why? +Because they went to a low marshy island, at the commencement of the +rainy season, when disease in its worst horrors was just setting in. +How could they expect to escape a contagion, which they actually seemed +to court? + +If the example of the colony of Liberia were to be followed, if +wholesome laws were laid down to regulate the movements of emigrants, +and proper precautions taken, by which all the advantages of position +might be seized, and the disadvantages avoided, I have very little +doubt that colonization would ultimately prove a valuable safety-valve +for society. The idle and wretched, who have no hopes or friends at +home, might always be thus beneficially drafted off to infant states, +where they could be made to labour, and where their recovered habits +could be rendered subservient to the common good. At home they hang on +the necks of the industrious; there they might be converted to useful +members of the great community, improving the means of the social body, +instead of deteriorating its morals, and wasting its resources. + +---------- +[19] This is a small bag filled with air, for the purpose of floating +nippers that are attached to it, through which the line passes, being +intended to fasten itself to the line on the surface of the water the +moment you check it on perceiving the lead strike the bottom, by which +means more correct soundings are obtained. + + + + +CHAP. VI. + +The Kroo Country--Religion of the Kroo and Fish men--Emigration of the +Natives--Sketch of their habits and customs--Purchase of wives--The +Krooman's _ne plus ultra_--Migratory propensities--Rogueries exposed-- +Adoption of English Names--Cape Palmas--Dexterity of the Fishmen--Fish +towns--The Fetish--Arrival at Cape Coast--Land with the Governor-- +Captain Hutchison--Cape Coast mode of taking an airing--Ashantee +Chiefs--Diurnal occupations--School for Native Girls--Domestication +of Females--Colonel Lumley--Captain Ricketts--Neglect of Portuguese +fortresses--A native Doctor + + +_Monday, Oct. 8th, 1827_.--Light airs and variable, with frequent heavy +showers. Land in sight, bearing N.E. At noon calm and very hot. Lat. +5 deg. 32'. N. lon. 10 deg. 17'. W. Cape Palmas E.S.E. 168 miles. +Hoisted in the pinnance, which we had been towing all the way from +Sierra Leone, in consequence of the crowded state of the ship. + +_Tuesday, 9th_.--At noon, lat. 4 deg. 55'. N. lon. 9 deg. 17'. W. Cape +Palmas S. 76 deg. E. 83 miles. At one a canoe came off to the ship, at +this time we saw a remarkable rock, called the Swallow, or Kroo rock, +which is detached from the main land, about two miles and a half from +the entrance of the river Waffen. There is a safe channel for vessels +inside of this rock, with seven fathoms water, and a muddy bottom. +Nearly twenty leagues to the westward of the Waffen is the river +Cestus,[20] in which river, Captain Spence, an old African trader, has +had a timber establishment some years. + +Being now off the Kroo country, I think it desirable to introduce a +short description of it, and its inhabitants. + +The Kroo country is situated on that part of the coast of Africa called +the Grain Coast, the chief towns of which are Settra Kroo, Little Kroo, +Kroo Barru, Kroo Settra, and King Will's town. It does not appear that +it extends any distance inland. The manners of the natives are +sufficiently curious to merit some description. They are pagans, and +place much faith in charms, auguries, and oracles. The most celebrated +place for oracles is near the banks of the river Cavally, a little to +the westward of Cape Palmas, and this spot is in as great repute +amongst them, and the surrounding tribes (particularly those along the +coast, even so far down as Cape Lahou), as ever that of Delphos was +among the ancient Greeks, and so far as we can learn, imposes with +equal success on the credulity and superstition of the poor ignorant +natives. + +The Kroomen, that is, the Kroo and Fish men, for they all come under +the general denomination of Kroomen in Sierra Leone, are almost the +only people on the coast who voluntarily emigrate, to seek for labour +out of their own country. They come to Sierra Leone, to work in any +capacity in which they can obtain employment, until they are possessed +of sufficient property to enable them to purchase several wives. The +object they propose to themselves in this increase of their domestic +establishments, differs in some respects from the indulgences of the +east. The Kroomen compel their women to perform all the field-work, as +well as the necessary domestic duties, in conformity with the usages of +savage life, and when they can purchase a sufficient number of wives to +fulfil all these employments, they pass the remainder of their days in +ease and indolence. Before they are able to accomplish this object, +they are obliged to make several visits to Sierra Leone, as they do not +like to be absent more than two or three years at a time from their own +country. The average duration of this voluntary banishment is perhaps +about eighteen months. A sketch of the progress of the Kroomen from +their first visit to Sierra Leone, to the final consummation of their +wishes, in the attainment of their Paradise of idleness, will fully +illustrate the peculiar character of a tribe, one of whose usages is +that of seeking abroad during the vigorous years of life, the means of +dwelling with ease and comfort in old age at home. + +When they have arrived at healthy boyhood, they first come to Sierra +Leone in the capacity of apprentices to the old hands, who are +considered as headmen or masters: these headmen, according to their +influence, or station in their own country, have a proportionate number +of apprentices attached to them, fluctuating from five to twenty, to +teach them what they call "White man's fashion." The profit of the +labour of the youths is always received by the headmen, who returns +them a small portion of it. When an apprentice goes back to his own +country, after his first trip, he is considered to have passed through +the period of initiation, and when next he visits Sierra Leone, he +comes upon his own account. The amount of the gains of this visit (a +great part of which consists of what they have been able to steal) is +delivered up to the elders of his family, who select and purchase a +wife for him. A short time is now spent in marriage festivities with +the respective relatives of the parties, and then a fresh venture to +Sierra Leone is undertaken, on which occasion he leaves his wife with +her relations. The proceeds of the third visit are dedicated to the +building of a hut, and the purchase of another wife. But he does not +remain long at home, before he prepares to set out again for the +purpose of making fresh accessions to his wealth, so that he may +increase his household up to the desired point where his own personal +labour will be rendered unnecessary to his support. In this way he +continues to visit Sierra Leone, accumulate property, and purchase +wives, the general number of which varies from six to ten, until he has +secured the requisite domestic establishment, when he "_sits down_" (as +they call it) for the remainder of his life, in what he considers +affluence and happiness. The process of wife-buying is remarkably +curious. For the first wife they pay two bullocks, two brass kettles, +one piece of blue baft, and one iron bar; but the terms upon which they +obtain the rest, depends entirely upon the agreement they make with the +parents of the brides. A convenient condition is attached to the +marriage articles, which secures the husband against any risk of being +disappointed by the bargain. If, after marriage, he discovers in the +lady any imperfection, or qualities that falsify the account given of +her previously by her parents, he is at liberty to turn her away in +disgrace, and the rejected bride is for ever after looked upon as an +abandoned character. In a very ancient history of Ireland, it is +stated, that a practice formerly prevailed in that country, of +permitting the bride elect to live with her intended husband twelve +months before marriage; and if, at the end of that time, the gentleman +was not satisfied with the lady's character and disposition, he was +allowed to send her back to her parents, taking upon himself the charge +of their offspring, in case they should have any. The gallantry of that +people, however, appears not to hare visited the female with any odium +in consequence: she was regarded by her friends with the same respect +and tenderness as before. The Kroomen cohabit with their wives in +succession, passing two days in rotation with each. + +Of course, it does not fall to the lot of every Krooman who goes to +Sierra Leone, to secure such luxuries for the decline of life, many of +them being too imprudent to take sufficient care of their earnings. + +The Kroomen sometimes come to Sierra Leone in their own canoes, which +are comparatively small for such a voyage, but they manage them with +skill, taking the precaution to keep close in with the land, and go on +shore every night. They are also conveyed in vessels that trade on the +coast, which they prefer, for the sake of economy, as they get their +provisions for assisting in navigating the vessel. On returning to +their country, however, they cheerfully pay 15s. a-head for their +passage, in any vessel they can procure; and, at these times, their +luggage, including the fruits of their plunder as well as their +earnings, makes no inconsiderable appearance in the ship. When they can +afford to return home in these larger vessels, they prefer them, on +many accounts, to their canoes, which are not only inconveniently +small, but expose their goods to the wet, and always liable to be +attacked and plundered by the Fishmen, who are more expert on the +water. They are also subject to great danger from some runaway blacks, +who infest the coast near the rock Cestus, going out in canoes, and +watching their opportunities for plundering any boat or vessel that +they are able to overpower. + +When the Kroomen leave their own country for Sierra Leone, they do not +bring any thing with them, except their gregories (various charms), +some native medicines, consisting merely of a few herbs, and a little +box containing certificates of character from the different persons +with whom they have served. These certificates they prize highly, as +forming introductions to future employment; however, but very few of +them could be possessed of such testimonials if their masters were +better acquainted with their conduct. I have been informed by some +persons who have visited the Kroo country, that they have seen in the +huts of the natives, silver forks and spoons, knives and forks, +table-cloths, towels, &c. &c., things which they never bought, but +which they had, no doubt, stolen from their employers. The articles +that they generally purchase for themselves are shawls, handkerchiefs, +blue baft, and other cloths for wearing round their waist, fine beaver +hats, muskets, ammunition, knives, common spoons, and various fancy +articles for their women. + +It was my intention to have visited their country, had not the Eden +proceeded so soon to Fernando Po, but as I was very anxious to be +present at the first operations in the formation of our establishment +on that island, I reluctantly abandoned my design. Any person would be +quite safe in the Kroo country, who would place himself under the +guidance of one of their respectable headmen, and Englishmen in +particular might visit the interior of their country under great +advantages, as the people are well acquainted with them in consequence +of the trade which is carried on in ivory, at their own towns on the +coast, as well as the intercourse which is constantly kept up with +Sierra Leone. There have occasionally been upwards of 2000 of these +people at one time in Freetown; but, shortly before our arrival, an +order in council was issued to restrict the resident Kroomen to 600, +for the purpose of throwing open the labour market to the free blacks, +as well as to prevent in some measure the drain of profit which the +Kroomen caused by their frequent immigration and departure. +Notwithstanding a great proportion of what they earned was expended on +articles of British manufacture, which they took away with them, still +a material injury was sustained by their constant robberies, which more +than counterbalanced the benefit of their expenditure. Independently of +this political motive for restricting their numbers, it was useful as a +measure of social protection. They resided by themselves in a suburb of +the town, apart from the rest of the inhabitants, and used to emerge at +night from their close retreats, and commit the most daring burglaries. +The stolen property was carefully secreted in their own quarter, where +they had a much better opportunity of concealing it than if they dwelt +promiscuously in the town at large. They frequently stole calves, pigs +and poultry, always adopting the precaution of immediately dressing +them, and burning the hides or feathers, as well as any of the offal, +that might probably lead to detection. In consequence of these +practices their moral character was very low at Freetown, but as they +were active, muscular, and intelligent, they obtained a decided +preference as servants and labourers. Some of them were also usually +employed as sailors in nearly all vessels that remain on the coast. One +very remarkable trait in these people is the bond of close union that +keeps them together, and preserves an interest in common throughout the +whole fraternity. If one of them should commit a crime, it is a very +rare occurrence to find another informing, or bearing witness against +him; and they carry this principle of combination so far, that they +will rather suffer for the offender than denounce him. If the +authorities attempt to elicit the facts by a course of examination, +they only obtain subterfuges and prevarications, and seek in vain by +threats or promises to shake the constancy of the witnesses. The +headmen manage their rogueries with so much ingenuity that charges can +very seldom be proved against them. They send out their apprentices, +under particular instructions, to commit robberies, and, like the +Spartan youths, they consider the most expert thief to be the cleverest +fellow: should any of these young men be caught, they are left to get +out of the scrape in the best manner they are able, for unless it be to +swear falsely to an alibi, or some other evasion of truth, their +masters never appear in the affair afterwards. + +The native denomination of a Krooman is Kroo, and that of a Fishman +Krepo, and they have distinguishing marks for their respective +countries tattooed on their face. + +From the difficulty which exists in ascertaining their own names, they +always add some English word as a personal designation. The selection +of the word is quite a matter of chance, and it is of no consequence +whether it belong to a person, place, or thing. For instance, if you +ask one of them what his name is, he will probably say, "My name is +Soda Water, Massa," another will tell you that his name is "Bottle +Rum," or "Bottle o' Beer," and others, "King Will, Jack Freeman, Tom +Freeman," &c. &c. Freeman being one of the most common and favourite +names amongst them. + +_On Wednesday, October 10th_.--we were off Cape Palmas, bearing N.E. +twenty-one miles, where a number of canoes came alongside with a few +trifling articles for sale, but their object was evidently more to beg +than barter. The article chiefly in demand amongst them was tobacco. On +taking their leave, one of the men got into his canoe by leaping +overboard while the ship was going very fast, and the boat paddling +hard to keep up with her. He swam to the canoe, and rolled himself over +the gunwale in a horizontal position, the people in the boat leaning +over the opposite side to prevent it from upsetting. These men may +truly be called Fishmen, for they appear almost as independent in the +water as the fish who inhabit it; they think nothing of having their +canoes upset on the wide ocean, for they can easily recover its former +position, and get the water out of it when they resume their places. I +was informed they will also attack a shark in the water without +hesitation, and they are very expert in catching almost every +description of fish. The Kroomen stand no chance with them on the +water, and when they happen to encounter each other in their canoes, +the first thing the Fishmen try to do is to upset the Krooman's canoe, +after which they are quite at their mercy. They arc also much better +seamen, as well as boatmen, yet notwithstanding this difference of +character, they are in appearance the same people as the Kroomen, and a +stranger would not know the difference. Formerly the Fishmen were +without the distinguishing mark down the forehead, which is now +commonly adopted. Their country, as I have before remarked, is in the +vicinity of Cape Palmas, and their principal towns are Bafoo, Wapee, +Batoo, Little Cess, Grand Cess, Garaway, Cape Town, Cavally, Tabor, and +Bassa. They are much more numerous than the Kroomen, but neither +Kroomen nor Fishmen have a united government; for they have frequent +wars amongst themselves; Fishtown against Fishtown, and Krootown +against Krootown, but they both possess one great and generous +characteristic, that of never selling each other for slaves on any +pretence. This, in a country where the slave-trade is so universal, may +be noted as a very extraordinary and remarkable feature in their +character. + +When any person dies in the Kroo, or Fish countries, unless the +deceased may have expressed a wish to the contrary, his friends apply +to the Fetish-men to know how he came by his death, when they +invariably fix on some obnoxious character, either man or woman, as +having been the cause. This person is then compelled to drink what they +call saucy-water, the infusion of the bark of a tree, well known for +its deleterious qualities. Of this preparation they are obliged to take +three heavy draughts of about a quart each. On the effect of this +depends the supposed guilt, or innocence of the accused. If it remains +on his stomach he is considered to be guilty of the alleged crime, and +he consequently dies; but, if evomition takes place no evil consequence +attends it, and he is declared to be innocent. Where it fails to +produce the latter effect, the people hunt him about the town as they +would a mad dog, until he is at the point of death, which generally +takes place a few hours after he has drank the prescribed potion. + +_Saturday, 13th_.--At noon. Cape Three Points E. 1/2 N. 7 miles. + +Five leagues to the westward of Cape Three Points, is Axim, where the +Dutch have a fort; and about one league further to the westward is the +mouth of the river Ancobra. Six leagues to the eastward of Cape Three +Points, is Dix Cove, where we had a fort occupied by a small detachment +of the Royal African Corps. At half past eight in the evening, we +anchored for the night in 15 fathoms water, for fear of running past +Cape Coast roads before daylight, the currents being very irregular; +and, early on the following morning, we proceeded on our voyage. At 9 +o'clock we were abreast of the Dutch fortress of Elmina, which is 7 +miles to the westward of Cape Coast Castle, off which place we came to +an anchor about 10 o'clock, in 9 fathoms water. We found the African +steam-boat, and the Diadem transport, waiting our arrival; there was +also an English merchant brig in the roads, but we heard nothing of our +schooner. At noon saluted his Honour the Lieut.-Governor, on his +leaving the ship, taking his secretary and myself with him in the +canoe, which was a fine boat, pulling 17 paddles: we were seated on +chairs, fixed to a platform in the forepart of the boat. The castle +saluted the Lieut.-Governor on landing, and the shore was lined with +natives to receive him. The surf not being very high, we were enabled +to land without a wetting, which is rarely the case. On entering the +castle, I was introduced to the officers of the garrison, and to Capt. +Hutchison, a merchant of this place, who is well-known for his eminent +services in this country. The first thing that brought him into +particular notice was being associated with Messrs. James and Bowdich, +in their mission to the King of Ashantee, in 1817. He was left at +Coomassie, the capital of that kingdom, as the accredited British +agent, after the departure of the mission, on their return to Cape +Coast. The King of Ashantee was pleased with his remaining, for it not +only shewed the confidence he had in him, but it was a proof of the +sincerity of our intentions, by thus leaving him as a pledge for the +fulfilment of our part of the treaty that had just been negotiated; and +the forfeiture of his life would, no doubt, have been the consequence, +if the King had even suspected any breach of faith on our part. In this +situation he remained several months, without the society of any white +man, among savages, who think no more of the life of a human being, +than a vicious boy does of a dog or cat. Some time after his return +from this mission, Capt. Hutchison was called upon to serve in a +military capacity against the very nation where all his efforts had +been directed to preserve a pacific disposition: and we here find him +no less distinguishing himself in the field of proud honour, with his +sword in his hand, than he had done in his diplomatic character; for, +notwithstanding he had an important command assigned to him, he was +personally engaged in almost every battle, in one of which (at Affatoo) +he was severely wounded in both arms, and before these wounds were +healed, he was called upon to take command of the centre hill on the +lines at Cape Coast, when it was attacked by the Ashantees, and all the +nations that the powerful king of that country was in alliance with. + +I took a ride with Capt. Hutchison before dinner, in his carriage, +which was a gig, with a head to it, on four wheels, drawn by as many +men; but, if these fellows could have been placed behind us, as they +were in the canoe, it would have been desirable, for their muscular +exertions produced an effluvia, which was any thing but agreeable. +Objectionable, however, as this style of travelling may appear, it was +certainly better than being carried about in a sedan-chair, or a +palanquin, excepting for travelling at night, or any great distance. + +My countrymen will, perhaps, think it very cruel to see men substituted +for horses, but when they are informed, that it is undertaken +voluntarily on their part, and even eagerly solicited by them, for the +reward attendant thereon, there will be no reason for complaint. As a +proof of their not feeling the employment derogatory, the following +observations will be sufficient to convince the most sceptical:--when a +gentleman, who has not a sufficient number of persons on his +establishment to employ in this way, wants to take an airing in his +carriage, he has only to mention it to his servants, and the house will +soon be surrounded with volunteers, soliciting to be selected for the +service. There are two reasons why the vehicles at Cape Coast are drawn +by men instead of horses, the principal one being that horses are very +dear, and do not live long in the climate; the second, that, even if +they had a sufficient supply of horses, they could not find a drive of +four miles in any one direction, without making a road expressly for +the occasion. The short one that they already have, requires constant +attention to keep it clear, the vegetation being remarkably rapid and +luxuriant. + +Captain Hutchison obligingly invited me to take up my quarters with +him, but as Colonel Lumley also desired me to consider myself as his +guest during my stay at Cape Coast, I divided my time between the +Colonel and his officers at the Castle, and Captain Hutchison with the +principal merchants of the place. Dined with the Lieutenant-Governor at +the officers mess at the castle. + +_Tuesday, 16th_.--Immediately after breakfast I accompanied the +Governor and Captain Ricketts to visit a native school, which is +composed of 100 boys, some of whom were very intelligent, and wrote and +read English remarkably well. + +I was present to-day when the Governor gave audience to twenty Ashantee +chiefs, who were introduced by the King of the Fantees, or Cape Coast +nation, accompanied by a number of his carboceers, or great men, who +acted as interpreters to the Ashantees. These twenty chiefs were part +of a mission, composed of one hundred and twenty sent by the King of +Ashantee to the commandant at Cape Coast Castle, but as the +Lieutenant-Governor of Sierra Leone happened to be there at the time, +it was thought to be more complimentary that he should give them an +audience. They came rather as petitioners than as equals, their object +being to sue for a peace, offering to deposit a certain quantity of +gold in Cape Coast Castle, as a security for their strict observance of +the treaty. After the meeting, I had some conversation with the King of +the Fantees, and several of his carboceers, all of whom spoke English. + +_Wednesday, 17th_.--I will just give an outline of my diurnal +occupations, which were pretty much the same during my short stay at +Cape Coast. My first visit every morning was to Captain Hutchison about +7 o'clock, when I was sure to find him at breakfast. I remained with +him about a couple of hours, which time was passed very agreeably in +conversation, excepting occasional interruptions by a visit from one of +the carboceers, who called on matters of business, or to get him to +settle some disputes among their people, for he had so much the +confidence of the natives, that both their great men and the common +people, preferred referring to him to settle their quarrels than to +their own authorities. At 9 o'clock I always repaired to the castle to +breakfast with the Governor, and Captain Ricketts, the commandant, +after which I used to pass my time among the different merchants, who +had all called on me on my first arrival, and given me a general +invitation to their houses. About noon I usually found a party +assembled at Captain Hutchison's to _relish_ with him, as it is +significantly called, which in fact was an early dinner, as was the +custom of the place. At 4 o'clock they took a ride in the manner before +described, or called on each other, and at 6 they took their tea with +meat, &c. + +This evening I accompanied Colonel Lumley and the officers at the +castle, to the merchants club-room, where some played cards, while +others passed the time in conversation, billiards, &c. In the +intermediate hours during the day I called on various persons, and +visited different parts of the town, to glean what information I could. +The Horatio, schooner, tender to the Eden, arrived this evening. + +_Thursday, Oct. 18th_.--Passed through the market this morning, which +is always held at an early hour, where the articles for sale consist +principally of fruits and vegetables. The sales here are conducted by +barter, the merchants generally exchanging tobacco and other goods for +the articles they want to purchase. + +I visited to-day an English school for native girls (21 in number) the +expense of which is defrayed by the Government. These children were not +all black, for there were a few very pretty Mulattoes amongst them. A +custom that must appear strange and immoral to my own countrymen, but +which is not held so at Cape Coast, prevails, in reference to these +girls, when their education has been completed. Although none of them +are regularly affianced, some of them are taken from the school into +the household of resident English gentlemen, where they perform all the +domestic duties in an anomalous capacity, combining all the +responsibilities of the married state, without its legal bond. A +previous engagement, and clear understanding is entered into with the +parents of the girls, to the mutual satisfaction of all parties, and +their offspring is afterwards provided for according to circumstances. +These young women usually receive the elements of a good education, and +constitute the only female society which an Englishman can enjoy here, +as the climate is so debilitating to English ladies that they cannot +reside in the place for any length of time. This, indeed, is the only +excuse that can be offered for a custom, which it must be granted does +not admit of an apology beyond the mere necessity of the case. The +girls are excellent managers in domestic concerns, and good and careful +nurses, qualities that are exceedingly valuable in such a situation. + +_Friday, 19th_.--Being on the point of taking leave of my friends at +Cape Coast, I cannot better occupy a few pages than with some general +retrospective observations. + +Colonel Lumley, Lieutenant-Governor of Sierra Leone claims my first +attention. I had the good fortune to make his acquaintance at the seat +of government, and during the whole time I had the pleasure of knowing +him, I always found him to be actuated by a most zealous devotion to +the many important duties which his situation imposed upon him. Nor was +his high character as a public officer more praiseworthy, than his +estimable qualities us a man. I shall always look back with pride and +satisfaction to the period of our intimacy, which was clouded only with +the apprehensions I entertained of the fate that awaited him. Perhaps +the prophetic forebodings with which he was impressed might have led me +to such gloomy anticipations; for he often observed to me, he felt +convinced that if he should ever be attacked by the fever, it would +prove fatal, as it unfortunately did, not very long after I left the +colony: and I was informed he caught it from a young friend whom he was +kindly attending, and who fell a victim to the disease. + +With Captain Ricketts, the commandant of the fortress, I also had the +pleasure of enjoying an intimate acquaintance. Captain Ricketts has +served many years on this coast, and was engaged with the Ashantees at +the battle of Essamacow, where Sir Charles McCarthy lost his life. On +that occasion he had a most miraculous escape, both in, and after the +battle, particularly on his return to the coast, where he was obliged +to follow the course of rivers, traverse the jungle and forests alone, +to evade the murderous Ashantees. He subsequently became commandant of +Cape Coast Castle, in which capacity he acquired so much influence with +the natives as to succeed in prevailing on them to build a +market-place, to lay out several new lines of streets, and otherwise +improve the town; but above all, to induce them, after a great deal of +persuasion, and perseverance, to take down all the houses adjoining, +and in the immediate vicinity of the castle walls, a measure which must +have greatly interfered with their religious prejudices, as they were +obliged to remove the remains of their relatives, who are always buried +under the apartments they inhabit, and to carry them to their new +habitations to be deposited in a similar manner. He had also succeeded +with the King and carboceers in getting them to cut away all the jungle +from the suburbs of the town, for three or four miles distant, and in +fact his influence was so great, and the positive utility of the works +he designed so obvious, that the natives of Cape Coast almost adored +him. The castle, which is a fine building, was kept in the best order +under the superintendence of this active and useful officer. + +It is astonishing that the Portuguese, who have been so enterprising, +and expended so much money on their early discoveries in the erection +of fortresses, many of which may still be considered good modern +fortifications, should now allow most of their foreign possessions to +go to decay, and even to fall into ruins. Look at the once celebrated +city of Goa on the Malabar coast, dwindled into insignificance, and +proverbially called a city of priests and beggars. What is the cause of +this decadence? Is it a just visitation for the unjust means they +practised to acquire those possessions? All for the thirst of gold! Or +is it that the active spirit of the Portuguese ceases with the +acquisition of novelties, and that they are destitute of those +persevering qualities which improve and foster the possessions that are +originally obtained by enthusiasm and energy? + +We had frequent heavy showers during our stay at Cape Coast, although +this was not the regular rainy season, for these showers were what are +called the after-rains, which last about a fortnight. + +When the weather clears up after very heavy rains, many of the poor +people, principally old women and children, take up the mud from the +gutters, and wash it well in calabashes, when they generally find a few +grains of gold for their pains. This is also the case after a very +heavy surf has subsided which, during the violence of the storm, +generally throws up a great quantity of black mud on the shore. + +There is a strange exhibition to be witnessed every morning on the +sea-shore, which, however, I shall forbear to describe. + +There is a singular old man, upwards of 60 years of age, at Cape Coast +Castle, who is well known by the name of Dr. Saguah, and who acts in +the capacity of a native doctor. This person excites a great deal of +attention, not only by the peculiarity of his manners, but by the +circumstances through which he has reached a station of some +consideration. He was originally a slave to the African Company at Cape +Coast, and having been accidentally placed in the house of the medical +establishment, he learned to compound medicines. In the duties which he +performed in this capacity he rendered himself very useful, and +continued at the pestle and mortar until Sir Charles McCarthy's +arrival, when the African Company was dissolved, all their slaves +liberated, and the new charter proclaimed, (for Sierra Leone and Cape +Coast) on March 29, 1822. Having received his freedom, he now assumed a +position of some importance, and was retained on the medical +establishment as dispenser, with a small salary. His excellent conduct +and judgment in the discharge of his new office procured him the +general respect and confidence of Europeans, and his reputation, when I +was at Cape Coast, stood so high that he was frequently consulted on +the diseases of the climate in preference to medical gentlemen from +Europe. He is in the habit of making daily visits to all the European +residents, whether they require his services or not, and they generally +invite him to take some refreshment, handing him at the same time the +keys of their celeret or cupboard, that he may help himself to spirits, +or wine. He sometimes avails himself of their offer, chiefly for the +sake of gratifying his vanity, by shewing to the servants the +confidence that is reposed in him; for no other native, perhaps, except +himself, would be entrusted with the keys of any place where wine and +spirits are kept. Trade was very dull during my stay at Cape Coast, and +had been so for some time; the merchants, however, looked forward to +its revival, in consequence of the prospects of peace with the Ashantee +people, who were very desirous to terminate hostilities, for the sake +of being enabled to resume their commercial intercourse with the +English, and other Europeans on the coast. During the war it was +believed that they had accumulated a great quantity of gold and ivory, +which are the principal articles they barter for goods of European +manufacture, and for which they had no sale while hostilities lasted, +except in some few instances, where individuals risked the hazard of +embarking in smuggling transactions. + +Captain Hutchison (whom I have before mentioned, as being left at the +Ashantee capital after the departure of the mission), when the troops +returned to the coast, subsequent to the Ashantee war was appointed +commandant of the Fortress of Annamaboe, a post which he resigned for a +time, in consequence of some difference of opinion with Colonel Lumley, +acting Governor of Sierra Leone, when he was at Cape Coast; however, he +was afterwards induced to resume the command of the fort, where he has +a mercantile establishment, as well as at Cape Coast. His opportunities +of acquiring popularity have been very favourable, for he has held +several high posts at one and the same time, namely:-- + + Commissioner of Requests, + Commandant of Annamaboe, + One of H.M. Justices of the Peace for the Gold Coast, + Colonial Secretary of Cape Coast, and + Captain of the Royal Gold Coast Militia. + +And I have the satisfaction of adding my personal testimony of his +worth, having found him a most intelligent, hospitable, and friendly +man. In addition to all the kind offices he had rendered me during my +short residence at Cape Coast, he presented me with a hoop +basket-worked ring, richly chased, made of virgin gold from the +Ashantee country, and also an Ashantee stool, which is described by +Bowdich to be made out of a solid piece of wood, called zesso, which is +very light, white, soft, and bearing a high polish. In addition to the +soft nature of the wood, it is said to be well soaked in water to make +it still softer, previous to its undergoing the process of carving. + +From its being the custom among the Ashantees for their great men to be +seated on stools, some of them take much pride and pains in having them +highly carved or ornamented. The pattern is generally the same, being a +very low concave seat; the only difference is the manner of ornamenting +them. Bowdich relates, that in one of the grand processions at +Coomassie, the stools of the great men were carried on the heads of +favourites, and he observes that they were laboriously carved, with two +bells attached to each. He also describes the King's stool as being +entirely cased with gold. The word stool also signifies a high place of +office in the King's council, to which his captains are occasionally +raised for any distinguished act of bravery; but this promotion is +attended by a heavy fee to the King's household, being no less than +eight ounces of gold. When a rich man dies, the person that succeeds to +his fortune is said to succeed to his stool. I will conclude the +subject of stools with an observation relating to cushions, which is, +that no subject can sit in public with a cushion on his stool, unless +it has been presented to him by the King, or one of his four principal +captains. + +---------- +[20] Nine miles to the westward of the mouth of this river, is the +rock Cestus, where there is a settlement of about seventy Fishmen, +who have run away from their own country, to avoid the penalty of the +law. They are principally from Niffon, Baddon, and Pickaninny Cess. + + + + +CHAP. VII. + +Recollections of the Ashantee War--Battle of Essamacow--Accession of +Osay Aquatoo to the Throne--Battle of Affatoo--Investment of Cape +Coast--Flight of the Ashantees--Martial Law proclaimed--Battle of +Dodowah--Ashantee Mode of Fighting--Death of Captain Hutchison + + +I cannot sufficiently express my sense of the uniform kindness I +experienced from the residents at this station. My excellent friend, +Capt. Hutchison, lodged me in a good stone house, which was entirely +appropriated to my own use, and I had also apartments allotted to me +at the castle, so that I passed my time as agreeably as I could +possibly desire. The interesting conversations in which I had the good +fortune to participate, afforded me a variety of curious and valuable +particulars respecting the natives; and, when it is remembered that +the gentlemen from whom I derived those anecdotes and descriptions, +had mingled personally in the scenes to which they referred, they +acquire an enhanced value, from so unequivocal a proof of their +authenticity. Many incidents, connected with the Ashantee war, were +related to me with all the fire and energy which the soldier exhibits +when he enumerates the dangers he has escaped, and the victories in +which he has shared; I wish I could transfer to my pages the spirit +which inspired my informants; but I must leave the imagination of the +reader to supply the strong feelings of personal interest involved in +the details, contenting myself with a plain recital of a few short +reminiscences. + +The battle of Essamacow, which is registered in the Gold Coast +Almanack, with the significant prefix of "fatal," was fought on the +21st of January, 1824. Hostilities commenced about two o'clock in the +afternoon, when both parties opened a brisk fire across a small river, +that separated their forces. Our troops consisted of only a few +regulars, a small body of militia, and some irregular native allies, +the whole commanded in person by his Excellency Sir Charles McCarthy, +Governor of Sierra Leone. + +The regulars and militia alone were armed with bayonets, so that, in +the event of close collision, in which, unfortunately, this conflict +terminated, we were at a fearful disadvantage, contending against a +foe so much superior in numbers, and so expert in the use of their +hand-arms. The firing across the river continued for four hours, but +at six o'clock in the evening, the English were compelled to cease in +consequence of having exhausted all their remaining ammunition. The +Ashantees, perceiving the difficulty in which our troops were placed, +resolved to turn the opportunity to immediate account, and, uttering +discordant yells, rushed into the river, and advanced _en masse_ +upon our forces. Sir Charles McCarthy saw that there was but one means +of resistance left, and received the tumultuous enemy at the point of +the bayonet. For some time, the steadiness and courage of the English +prevailed over the barbarian rage of the multitudes that threw +themselves upon their "serried ranks," and the Ashantees fell in rapid +succession; but it soon became evident that the strictest discipline +of such an inferior body, could not withstand the increasing crowds +that poured upon them: the English soldiers, finding themselves so +hemmed in that their muskets became inconvenient to them, for want of +space to exercise their arms with freedom, relieved themselves from +the encumbrance by unfixing their bayonets, and casting their muskets +away. With this awkward weapon they continued the engagement against +an enemy armed with long knives, in the use of which every Ashantee is +singularly skilful. All the advantages of European knowledge and +cooperation, were at an end. It now became a terrific scene of +slaughter, in which physical power had the inevitable superiority. +Opposed to such infuriated masses, the coolness of the English was of +no avail. They fell quickly before the knives of the Ashantees, +exhausted from the loss of blood, and covered with numberless wounds. +Happily their sufferings were of short duration, for the enemy, in the +fulfilment of a barbarous usage, cut off their heads as they fell, as +trophies of their own personal prowess. + +Sir Charles McCarthy saw that the day was lost, and that it would be +but an inglorious sacrifice of his own staff, and the few soldiers +that yet remained, to continue on the field. He, therefore, prepared +to retire; but this resolution--which, in the breast of so brave an +officer, was slow to find a place--was taken too late. A large body of +the enemy had already advanced upon his rear, and intercepted his +retreat. All hope, even of escape, was now cut off. The victory of the +Ashantees was complete: and nothing but conjecture is left as to the +cruel sufferings which were inflicted upon our gallant countrymen and +allies before they surrendered their spirits to their Creator on that +fatal day. + +Two officers only escaped--Brigade-Major Ricketts and Lieut. Erskine. +Almost all the principal Europeans were slaughtered, and only one, Mr. +Williams, is known to have survived: he was sent to the court of +Ashantee. The most melancholy feature in this affair is, that the +officer who had charge of the ammunition, neglected to keep the troops +properly provided with powder, for had the supply been sufficiently +prompt, it is believed that the Ashantees never could have succeeded +in their advance movement, or, indeed, that they never would have +attempted it, so great was our superiority over them in loading and +firing. It is to be feared, that great blame is attached to the +management in this part of the arrangement for the necessities of the +battle, for when Major Ricketts opened the three last kegs supplied to +the troops for ammunition, he found, to his consternation, that they +were filled with macaroni! although, when the Ashantees plundered our +camp the day after the battle, they discovered ten kegs of +ball-cartridges, amongst a great quantity of valuable booty. But, +however lamentable this negligence was, it should be suffered to pass +into oblivion. The officer upon whom it is charged, perished with his +brave companions; and, like them, he is placed for judgment before a +higher tribunal: it is, therefore, unnecessary, as it would be cruel, +to pain his friends and relatives by registering his name, to mark a +military error, which might have been caused by the unexampled +confusion of the scene in which he was called upon to act so +responsible a part. + +Shortly after this disastrous event, the late King of Ashantee, Osay +Tootoo Quamina, died. He just lived long enough to receive the +intelligence of a triumph which inspired the Ashantees with the most +extravagant hopes, and led them to prosecute the war with sanguinary +violence. Osay Aquatoo (the Orange[21]), the brother of the deceased +king, had no sooner succeeded to the vacant throne, than he resolved to +follow up the advantages of the war with vigour. He believed that the +death of an officer of such estimation as Sir Charles McCarthy, must +have thrown the ranks of the British soldiers into confusion and +despair, and, taking it for granted, that a military demonstration, on +his part, would be sufficient to complete the successes which had opened +so successfully under his predecessor, he departed from his capital to +take the command of the army, which was then advancing on Cape Coast. On +this occasion, agreeably to the superstitious usage of the natives, the +head of the late king was carried into the files of the Ashantees, as a +charm to protect them in the battle, and an incentive to the performance +of valorous deeds. When the King had made some progress towards the +encampment, he sent a sarcastic message to the Commander-in-chief, who +was then at Affatoo, within ten miles of Cape Coast, which abundantly +shewed the confidence by which he was animated. His message was to the +effect, that he had learned, in Coomassie,[22] that all the white men +had been killed in the late action, and demanding to be informed, what +he, the Commander, and all his young men were about, that they had not +taken the Castle.--"Stop!"--was the _naive_ reply of the General to the +messenger--"Stop till Friday, when the white men are going to attack us: +then you can carry back to the King the news of what you see, and of +what the young men have to do." Friday came in due course, and the army +of the Ashantees went forward to redeem the pledge of their exulting +General. This was the battle of Affatoo, which took place on the 21st +of May, 1824. The result was disastrous to the cause of the King. The +natives were completely routed and driven from the scene of action, +without the loss of a single officer on our side, and with but one +wounded (Capt. Hutchison), who commanded the Annamaboe militia, and who +was shot through both arms, while he was leading his men to the charge. + +The Anglo-Fantee army, immediately after the battle of Affatoo, fell +back on Cape Coast Castle, as had been previously arranged by Colonel +Sutherland, who had arrived from Sierra Leone just before the battle. +This movement of that portion of our troops, enabled Major Chisholm, +who possessed the entire confidence of all the soldiers, to take the +command in the field. The King of Ashantee, now joined the army, which +he headed in person, and concentrating all his forces, he advanced +towards Cape Coast Castle with the intention of blockading the town. +On the 10th of June, 1824, he pitched his gorgeous pavilion,[23] +sparkling with its rich colours and costly embroidery in the effulgent +sunlight, on a height to the northward of the town; in the valley +between which and the back of the town lay the ground where the +important issue was to be contested. + +For a whole month the belligerent parties lay in sight of each other, +mutually watching their opportunities to attempt a decisive movement. +Several skirmishes took place from day to day, but without making much +impression on either side; and during this interval of suspense, in +which our troops were exposed to the rays of a vertical sun, and in +continual expectation of a hidden and treacherous attack from a +barbarous horde, greatly superior in numbers, and with whom "revenge +is virtue," ascending volumes of smoke wreathing up into the air, and +blackening the bright expanse of heaven, marked the terrific +conflagrations that were constantly taking place in the surrounding +country. + +At length the eventful day arrived on the 11th of July, 1824. In order +to understand the peculiar perils which our army had to encounter, it +is necessary to observe that Cape Coast Castle stands near the sea, +and that the town is built on the west side of it, at a short distance +from the beach. Upon three conical hills that arise close to the back +of the town, and run nearly parallel with the coast, our troops were +stationed. The right hill was occupied by Major Chisholm's division, +the left by Major Purden's, and the centre by Captain Hutchison's; +while the subordinate officers commanded the passes between the valley +and the town, which were four in number, two beyond the hills, and two +between them. These passes were choked up with a dense jungle. The +whole army was commanded by Colonel Sutherland, assisted by Sir John +Phillirnore, and most of the officers, seamen, and marines, of H.M.S. +Thetis. + +At noon the enemy pushed forward in immense numbers, and with +ferocious valour towards the passes, with the design of forcing them. +Their attention was particularly directed to the right wing, as the +town was considered to be most accessible on that side. Their savage +cries, their heedless desperation, and tumultuous onset, were well +calculated to unnerve the bravery of troops accustomed to discipline +and a more honourable species of warfare, but our soldiers met the +Ashantees with an unmoved front: the resistance was as courageous as +the attack was fierce; and the first approach of the enemy was +repulsed with steadiness. It was at this crisis that Lieutenant Swanzy +fell, covered with wounds at the head of his detachment. To this fine +young man, whose gallantry was conspicuous in the action, might be +applied with truth the celebrated words of the poet, + + "The young, the beautiful, the brave!" + +The conflict raged with great fury, and the indomitable self-possession +of our soldiers at last threw the Ashantees into confusion. Their wild +exultations gave way to universal despair, a panic seized upon their +irregular masses, which now filled the valley in a state of fearful +commotion, and exhibited a terrific picture of savage desperation. +Perceiving the incertitude of his army, the King descended from the +hill for the purpose of animating the troops by his presence. The royal +_cortege_, as it swept down the height, and mixed with the heaving +crowds below, was singularly imposing. The King advanced with a gaudy +umbrella held over his head, followed by a glittering and diversified +train, consisting of his numerous wives and eunuchs celebrating his +praises and his deeds in barbarous lyrics, while others amongst his +retinue were employed in waving brilliant feathers and fans, and the +tails of elephants and horses over the head of the monarch, keeping +regular time with the inspiring war-song, to which all his guards +contributed in an uproarious chorus. The King exhibited great personal +courage and perseverance; again and again he rallied his disconcerted +troops, who were seen flying about in all directions in the utmost +disorder. In this way the conflict was prolonged until darkness fell +upon the scene and terminated the battle. On the cessation of +hostilities, the Ashantees retired, with the intention, as the British +soldiers believed, of renewing the fight with the return of daylight. +Major Chisholm, taking advantage of the circumstance, removed into the +fort for the night, and discovered for the first time, that the stock +of ammunition, particularly the musket balls, was nearly exhausted. +Rapid measures were adopted for repairing this disaster; all the leaden +and pewter vessels in the town were immediately put in requisition, +melted down during the night, and cast into ounce balls. Yet even this +additional supply would have been of little avail, had the enemy +renewed the attack on the following day. But when the dawn returned, +the Ashantees were seen in the distance, encamped in stillness, and +without exhibiting any disposition to encounter our soldiers again, and +as evening began to fall, preparations were visible of an intention to +retire from the field, and in a few hours afterwards, the King of +Ashantee, despairing of success, retreated with his army under cover of +the night. + +From this period a cessation of arms followed; but the Ashantees +becoming turbulent again, martial law was proclaimed on the 6th of +June, 1826. Affairs were in this position, when the battle of Dodowah +was fought on August 7, 1826, between the English, assisted by the +native allies, and the Ashantees, with their allies, commanded in +person by the king, commonly known by the designation of the +Tiger-King. + +The ground on which the battle was fought is an extensive plain, the +surface of which is occasionally interspersed with clumps of trees and +brushwood. It is distant from Accra, N.E. about seven or eight leagues, +and lies four miles S. of a village called Dodowah, from which it takes +its name. The day on which it took place being considered by the +Ashantees as favourable to enterprises, was on that account anticipated +by us, so that we were enabled to prepare for the action in time. About +eight o'clock in the morning, our scouts brought intelligence that the +enemy were already in motion, and the English drums immediately spoke +with their fine martial music to our troops, who formed their lines +with promptitude, stretching about four miles from E. to W. The variety +of costumes, and flags of different nations, exhibited by the European +lines, including the native allies, presented a very picturesque and +imposing appearance, and invested the scene with a peculiar arid +inspiring interest. For several days previous to the battle, a dispute +was maintained between the King of Akimboo, the King of Dunkara, and +the Queen of Akim ,[24] as to who should have the honour of attacking +the King of Ashantee's own band. This point, however, was finally +settled by an arrangement which satisfied all parties; it was decided +that the King of Akimboo should take the extreme right, while the King +of Dunkara and the Queen of Akim should occupy the extreme left. Their +zealous aspirations, notwithstanding their ardour, were disappointed +after all, for the King of Ashantee hearing that the white men filled +the central position of the European lines, chose that point for his +own attack, on account of the great honour which he hoped to acquire by +meeting the English in person. + +The officers and gentlemen engaged in the battle were Lieut.-colonel +Edward Purden, commanding the whole. Captains Kingston and Rogers, and +Lieutenant Calder, of the Royal African Corps; Dr. Young, of the staff; +Mr. Henry Richter, merchant, Danish Accra, with his own men, about 120; +Mr. I.W. Hanson, merchant, British Accra, with his men, amounting +nearly to a similar force; Mr. J. Jackson, merchant, Cape Coast, with +Mr. Bannerman's men (Mr. Bannerman being in England in bad health), +amounting also to about an equal strength; and Captain Hutchison, +Annamaboe, with the Cape Coast artificers, part of the town's people +(volunteers), assisted by Bynie, a native chief, whose people, +including the above mentioned from Cape Coast, amounted to about 150. +These formed the centre, and were drawn up in lines, with the Royal +African Corps as a reserve. + +The attack commenced from right to left about half past 9 o'clock. +Several of the natives, unaccustomed, probably, to the regularity of +European movements, came to the troops in the centre, and reproached +them in coarse and offensive language with cowardice, for not opening +their fire, which circumstance being communicated to the commanding +officer he ordered them instantly to advance. They accordingly moved +forward about 400 yards, when a heavy well directed fire took place on +our side. From this point the English troops continued steadily to +proceed, the enemy slowly and sulkily giving way as they advanced. No +prisoners were made, for as they fell they were put to death. Even in +this summary cruelty there was a species of mercy, as many were ripped +up, and their hearts torn from the vital region, in order that the +blood might be poured out on the ground as an offering to the triumph +of the English arms. The fighting in many instances was of the most +barbarous and ferocious description. In some cases, single men marked +their particular adversaries and dragged them from the ranks; and thus, +combating in pairs, they wrestled and cut each other, until the knife +of the more fortunate gladiator entered the vital part of his +antagonist and terminated the revolting contest. The enemy was pressed +so hard by our troops, that a distinguished Captain of the Ashantees, +either from despair, or to end his misery the more speedily, blew +himself up. A cry now arose that the Ashantees were advancing between +the centre and the right wing of the army: the alarm was caused by a +panic amongst the party from Danish Accra, the native troops in that +quarter having, with their Carboceer at their head, retreated early in +the action, it being, as they afterwards explained, "against their +Fetish to fight on a Monday," and thus created in the remainder of the +body apprehensions of weakness. This cowardly conduct of the Danes +compelled the centre to fall back, and abandon all the advantages their +valour had obtained, a movement which immediately exposed them to a +galling fire from the enemy, who now rushed onwards in immense numbers +to crush the retiring troops. At this important crisis of the battle, +Colonel Purden advanced with the reserve, who brought rockets with +them, a few of which thrown amongst the enemy spread the most appalling +confusion. The hissing sounds of these novel messengers of death; the +train of fire; the explosion; with the ghastly wounds inflicted by the +bursting of the rockets; led them to suppose that this terrible +instrument could be nothing less than thunder and lightning. + +While these proceedings were going forward in the centre, another party +of Ashantees attacked the left wing of King Chebbo (of Dunkara), the +Winnebahs[25] having fled at the first fire, and never paused until +they reached Accra. King Chebbo, however, was in advance with a handful +of his people, driving back his opponents, and a few rounds of grape +fired over the heads of our troops soon relieved his party from their +assailants. On the right wing, the battle was never doubtful throughout +the day. The King of Akimboo swept all before him, penetrated to the +King of Ashantee's camp, took them in flank, and shewed his rapid and +victorious progress by a column of smoke that extended to the very +heart of the enemy's lines. + +The example of the Ashantee Captain, who blew himself up to escape from +the hand of his adversaries, was followed by several other Ashantees in +command. The sight of these suicides on the field of death was +terrible: the explosion of the gunpowder, the shouts and groans of the +combatants, the discordant noises produced by the rude instruments of +the barbarian soldiery, the general _melee_ of the raging battle, and +the confusion that arose in consequence of the grass having caught the +flames from the firing and the exploding powder, presented a scene +which, with a little aid from the imagination, might have been easily +translated by a poet or a painter into a vivid picture of the infernal +regions. + +The effects of the rockets and grape-shot, produced so extensive an +alarm amongst the enemy, that they fled in all directions, and were at +last completely routed. The Danish flag now advanced from the rear, and +it was soon seen that the Fetish of the recreants, although it had +forbidden them to fight on a Monday, had not made any provision against +the commission of acts of spoliation, for these people were the very +first to plunder the Ashantee camp, and then to run off with the booty, +as fast as they had fled from the field of battle. + +The Ashantees lost in this engagement the whole of their camp baggage, +including a great quantity of gold. Towards the evening a number of +prisoners were made, for our allies, tired of slaughter, contented +themselves with making as many prisoners as they could for slaves. They +were supposed altogether to have lost 5000 men, amongst whom were most +of the principal chiefs, and the King himself was wounded. One of his +wives (to whom Mr. Bannerman introduced me at Accra) and a female child +were taken prisoners. Our loss was comparatively trifling, not +amounting to more than 800 killed, and 1600 wounded. Colonel Purden +received a contusion on the higher part of his right leg, from a spent +shot, and Mr. Richter received a shot through one of his thighs. +Amongst the deaths, there were three native chiefs, who commanded in +our lines. + +Soon after the battle, some of the Annamaboe people brought several +heads of Ashantees whom they had slain to Captain Hutchison, as a proof +of their personal courage, and individual prowess. Some of these heads +were recognised by Captain Hutchison as belonging to natives who had +been known to him. Amongst the spoils one head was found by the Aquapim +chief, which excited curiosity, by the care with which it was enclosed +in wrappers, and Captain Hutchison desired that the covering should be +removed. On taking off the first wrapper, they found the second to be a +fine parchment, inscribed with Arabic characters; beneath this was a +final envelope of tiger's skin, the well known emblem of royalty among +the Ashantees. The evident pains which had been taken in the +preservation of this head, satisfied all the by-standers that it was +the head of Sir Charles McCarthy, to which it was generally understood +regal honours had been paid by the natives. The gratification which +this discovery gave to our countrymen may be easily conceived, and they +lost no time in sending the head to England, together with the first +account of the battle of Dodowah. The head, however, had scarcely been +forwarded to its destination, when some prisoners who had been taken in +the action, made the disagreeable disclosure that the head belonged, +not to Sir Charles McCarthy, but to the late King, Osay Tootoo Quamina, +and that it had been taken into the battle in conformity with the +prevailing usage of the people. The effects of this information though +painful were ludicrous enough. The head of the Ashantee King had found +its way to England as an accredited relique of the lamented Sir Charles +McCarthy, and was the first remains of an Ashantee that had ever, +perhaps, received the solemn rite of Christian burial; while, on the +other hand, the head of Sir Charles McCarthy, had been deposited with +all the rude pomp of their heathen ceremonials in a Pagan cemetery. +However disappointed the friends and countrymen of Sir Charles McCarthy +must feel at the discovery of this strange interchange of reliques, the +Ashantees are still more mortified at a circumstance which has robbed +their royal catacombs of one of its mementos, and broken the line of +death's heads by which the chronology of the throne is perpetuated. +They are quite ashamed of the occurrence, and greatly annoyed whenever +it is alluded to; more particularly as the Fantees, their immediate +enemies, take every opportunity of reproaching them with a loss which +they consider to be a disgrace. + +Connected with this subject is the Ashantee mode of fighting, a +description of which will serve to illustrate the previous details. In +the first place, we must suppose them to be encamped, with the +intention of advancing to attack their enemy. They commence their +operations by cutting a number of footpaths for a single person only to +make his way through the bush; these paths are cut parallel, +equi-distant, and just within hearing. By these numerous paths they all +advance in Indian file, until they arrive in front of the enemy, when +they form in line, as well as circumstances will admit. Their arms and +accoutrements consist of a musket without a bayonet, the lock of which +is covered with a piece of leopard's or some other skin to protect it +from the weather, a pouch tied round their waist containing the powder, +in about twenty or thirty small boxes of light wood, each having a +single charge; a small bag of loose powder hanging down on the left +side; and in addition to this a keg or barrel of powder is carried for +each party to replenish from when required. Their shot is langrage, +composed of pieces of iron, lead, ironstone (broken in small pieces), +&c. &c., and is carried loosely in a bag. The last of these materials +is most generally used, as it is procured with facility, being found +lying in great quantities on the surface of the earth. They load their +muskets with a large charge of both powder and shot. In their buckskin +belts they carry from six to twenty knives of various lengths, together +with a cutlass or bill-hook, the former for cutting off heads, and the +latter for clearing their way through the underwood. On arriving near +the enemy, they cut a path transversely in front of those before +mentioned, in which path they form their line, within twenty or thirty +paces of the enemy, having a little brushwood in front for their +protection. They then immediately commence firing through the +intermediate bush. So soon as one of either party observes an opponent +fall, he rushes forward and seizes him by the throat, when with great +dexterity he separates the head from the body by means of one of his +knives, and runs off with it to lay it at the feet of his captain. +After the action is over, the captain collects all the heads that he +has received, puts them into bowls, and causes them to be presented to +the chief of the army. + +I cannot take leave of this subject, or of the scenes to which it +relates, without reverting to the name of Captain Hutchison, a sharer +in the dangers and the glories of the war, and one to whom I am +indebted for many valuable particulars, and for an anxious and steady +friendship, upon which I shall always look back with satisfaction and +gratitude. Very lately--indeed while these memoirs have been in +preparation for the press--the painful intelligence of his death has +reached me. I had been favoured by a visit from him since his return to +England, after an absence of seventeen years in Africa, and anticipated +shortly to have had that gratification renewed, looking forward to our +meeting with something like the anticipations of a veteran, who hopes, +in the society of some ancient and well-beloved comrade, "to fight his +battles o'er again!" But these pleasurable dreams of life are not at +our own disposal, and we must submit to the will of that Power in whose +hands are the agencies of all the elements, of which man is but a +perishable compound. My acquaintance with Captain Hutchison commenced +under circumstances which cannot easily be obliterated from my memory, +and ripened into friendship almost unconsciously. I speak of him as I +knew him, and even my partiality, heightened by my regret, cannot much +exaggerate his merits. He was a brave officer, and an intelligent +gentleman. His mind was practical, prompt, and energetic; and he united +to the qualities of a strict disciplinarian, all the kind feelings that +embellish the character of social benevolence. Peace to his ashes, and +honour to his name! + +---------- +[21] From the colour of his skin. + +[22] From "Coom," to kill, and "assie," under, meaning under the large +Banian, or Indian fig-tree, that stands in the market-place, opposite +to the palace. + +[23] This was a very splendid tent that had been presented to him some +years before by the Dutch Governor, General Daendals. + +[24] This extraordinary woman, who displayed unexampled energy +throughout the whole of this war, was about five feet three inches +in height, and was distinguished by an almost infantine character of +face, and a voice low and soft as the tones of a flute. It was thought +that she habituated herself to that style of speaking to conceal her +really masculine nature, and to interest her audience. Her voice, +notwithstanding its sweet inflections, was broken, or "cracked," as +singers term it, a circumstance occasioned, perhaps, by the constant +use she made of it, for she was not a little remarkable for that +volubility which a rude jest attributes to her sex in general. She was +a very successful beggar, too, amongst the rest of her accomplishments, +for munition and strong drink. Just before the battle of Dodowah +commenced, she passed along the ranks, encouraging her people with an +appropriate harangue, and waving at the same time a gold-hilted sword +in one hand, and an elephant's tail (the emblem of royalty), in the +other, with a necklace, well adapted for the occasion, composed of a +string of musket halls. This heroine said to some of our countrymen, +who called on her the day before the battle, "Osay has driven me from +my country because he thought me weak, but he is mistaken; for, +although I have the form of a woman, I have the heart of a man!" an +observation which her extraordinary prowess in the fight fully +justified. She was to be seen every where in the heat of the battle, +encouraging and exciting her troops; wherever the greatest danger was, +there, too, was the energetic Queen of Akim. Her conduct reminds us of +Queen Bess at Tilbury Fort, and perhaps still more of Boadicea herself. + +[25] These are the same people who murdered Governor Meredith about +fourteen years before. For that crime, the English blew up their +fort. They have always acted basely in battle, and are notorious for +gluttony, cruelty, and cowardice. The Ashantees said that if they went +to Winnebah, they could catch the people like swine. + + + + +CHAP. VIII. + +Embarkation--Departure for Accra--Land Route--Accra Roads-Visit to +Danish Accra--Dilapidations of the Fortresses at Dutch and English +Accra--Captive Queen--Mr. Thomas Park--Cause of his Death unknown-- +Departure for Fernando Po--First view of the Island--Anchor in +Maidstone Bay--Early History of the Settlement--Captain Owen's +Expedition--Visited by the Inhabitants--Site for the Settlement +determined--Author's Mission to the King of Baracouta--Visit of +the King--Native Costume--Ecstacy of the Natives--Distribution +of Presents--Second Visit to the King--His Majesty's evasive +Conduct--Renewed Interviews--A Native Thief--Intended Punishment-- +Cut-throat, a Native Chief--Visit to King-Cove--Purchase of land + + +_Friday, Oct. 19_.--When on the point of embarking with Mr. Galler, +the purser of the Eden, we took some refreshment at Mr. Castle's, a +commissariat officer, whom I had the pleasure of unexpectedly meeting +again at New South Wales, and who is one of the few survivors, after +serving some years at Sierra Leone and Cape Coast. Embarking, as well +as landing, at this place, is a matter of some moment, the passengers +and a part of the crew being obliged to get into the boat before they +launch her from the beach; for the surf is occasionally so heavy as to +become exceedingly perilous. Canoes are frequently upset in the attempt +to get off in bad weather, and the purser of a man-of-war was drowned +in this manner a few years before; but the natives, who are like fish +in the water, are indifferent to the danger; all they care about is to +keep the boat from being stove, and to save her appointments. There was +a small lodge of rocks about one hundred yards from the shore, that +would answer for the foundation of a breakwater, which it is calculated +might be effected at the cost of from three to five hundred pounds, and +which certainly would be most desirable for affording protection, and +facility to boats, both on landing and leaving the shore. + +_Saturday, Oct. 20th_.--At eight this morning we left Cape Coast Roads +with a fine breeze, for Accra, a distance of sixty miles by sea, and +eighty-five by land. A sketch, of the land route may not be +uninteresting. Four miles eastward of Cape Coast is Moree, and the +Dutch Fort Nassau; six miles from Moree is Annamaboc, the most complete +fortification in the country; five miles from thence Cormantine, the +first fort possessed by the English, and built by them about the middle +of the seventeenth century. It was taken afterwards by the Dutch, and +being stormed, was almost destroyed by the Ashantee army, before it +attacked Annamaboe; the position is very commanding. Tantumquerry, a +small English fort, is about eighteen English miles from Cormantine +(crossing the small river Amissa, an hour's walk inland from which is +Mankasim, the capital of the Braffoe district of Fantee), the natives +call the town Tuam; eight miles from Tantumquerry is the town of Afram, +where there is a Dutch fort, and a small river; eight miles from Afram +is Simpah or Winnebah. The people of Simpah are Fantees, but their +language is called Affoottoo. They are in the district of Agoona. About +nine miles from Simpah is the Dutch fort Berracoe; the natives call the +town Leniah. Attah, of Akim, laid a contribution on this fort in March +1811. About twenty-seven miles from Berracoe is Accra or Inkran, once +subject to Aquamboo, which people, according to Isert, formerly drove +them to Popo. + +We had only the Horatio schooner in company, the African steam-vessel, +and Diadem transport, having sailed the preceding evening for Fernando +Po. + +_Sunday, 21st_.--At eleven o'clock this forenoon, we anchored in Accra +Roads, where we found His Majesty's ship Esk, Captain Purchass, who +came on board to wait on Captain Owen. I had the pleasure of +accompanying this gentleman on his return, first to his ship and then +to the shore, in a very fine canoe of the country, belonging to Mr. +Bannerman, who is the only English merchant at Accra. This canoe was +fifty feet in length, pulling seventeen paddles, and Mr. B. has had it +raised two feet in the fore part (where the passengers were seated on +chairs), expressly to protect him from the sea in his occasional +voyages to and from Cape Coast Castle. + +We found the beach equally bad for landing as at Cape Coast. Some of +the officers of the Eden and Esk, as well as myself, dined with Mr. +Bannerman, and I slept at the house of Captain Fry, who was commandant +of the English fort here, which is in a most ruinous state, and instead +of being _fort_, I should say it was _foible_. + +_Monday, 22nd_.--After breakfast, a party of us in two gigs, drawn by +four blacks each, went to Danish Accra, a distance of two miles, and a +very good road. The Danish Governor and all the officers received us +very politely, and invited us to remain and pass the day with them. The +fortress was very clean, and every way apparently in good order. What +is called Danish Accra is merely the fortress, which is the case with +Dutch and English Accra,[26] for there are no Europeans living in +private houses, except Captain Fry and Mr. Bannerman. The fortress of +Dutch Accra is even in a more ruinous state than that of the English, +and is entirely deserted. There is a native town, of course, and in it +are to be found jewellers, who make ornaments of every fashion, out of +the purest gold, brought from the interior. The gold is four pounds per +ounce, and they charge an additional pound for converting it into +necklaces, bracelets, or any other ornaments, of whatever pattern you +may fancy. + +Mr. Bannerman invited us to visit one of the King of Ashantee's +favourite wives, who had been made prisoner during the war, with her +daughter and grand-daughter, whom Mr. B. had accommodated with part of +his house, where his own two sisters were living, distant about a +quarter of a mile from the house of business where he resided. They +were apprized of our visit, and were dressed accordingly to receive us. +Mr. Bannerman is himself a gentleman of colour, and a man of education; +he resided a long time in England, and is a sensible, mild, and +gentlemanlike man. He supplies all our men of war, on the African +station, when they call at Accra, with bullocks, vegetables, &c. &c. + +Mr. Thomas Park, who left England, as one of the Midshipmen of the +Sybille, but with three years leave of absence from his ship so soon as +she arrived on the coast, ordered by the Admiralty for the express +purpose of travelling in Africa, with the avowed intention of +endeavouring to discover the course, and source of the Niger, was +landed at Accra some time since from that ship, and passed a short time +there in studying some of the languages of the countries through which +he meant to travel. He left Accra to proceed on his journey into the +interior on the 29th of September, 1827, and arrived at Mampong in +Aquapim on the 2nd of October; this he left on the 5th for Acropong, +the chief town of Aquapim, and on the 10th left Acropong, for Aquambo, +a town at the head of the Volta river, where he arrived on the 16th of +October. I heard that he had been kindly treated, so far as he had +penetrated, but at the last mentioned place, he took a fancy to climb a +particular tree, which the natives entreated him to desist from, saying +that it was Fetished,[27] however, he persisted and accomplished his +wish. A few days after this he was taken ill, and as every one knows, +he did not survive to tell his own story: perhaps the precise cause of +his death will ever remain in doubt. This gentleman was a son of the +celebrated Mungo Park, than whom no man was better calculated for such +an enterprise, and whose loss is perhaps more to be regretted than that +of any other African traveller; but I lament to say that from the +moment I heard of his son, an inexperienced young man, undertaking an +enterprise of such magnitude, as that of penetrating alone into the +interior of an unknown country, to solve a problem in the pursuit of +which so many distinguished travellers had failed and fallen, I confess +I never supposed he would live to return: in fact, the project appeared +to me, what is emphatically expressed in the old proverb, "a wild-goose +chase." For where men of maturer judgment and greater experience found +that they could not contend against the superstitions, prejudices, and +artifices of those cunning savages, how was it to be expected that a +youth of nineteen could possibly succeed? + +I have heard, that his desire for travelling in Africa, arose from a +romantic notion, that had entered his head when a boy, of seeking for +his father in the interior of that country, to ascertain whether he was +alive and in slavery, or had lost his life by sickness, or violence. +This filial enthusiasm continued to haunt him until a short time before +he left England, when he abandoned the fond hope of recovering his +father, whose death was confirmed by a variety of coincident +circumstances, but still he resolved to persevere in his long-cherished +scheme of visiting the interior of Africa. Impelled, perhaps, by the +name he inherited, and a latent passion to emulate the deeds of his +father, on the same field of action, he embarked in this hazardous and +unfortunate enterprise. But mark the difference of character and +qualifications. The father, a man of mature judgment, whose experience +in the world gave him considerable advantages; was also of an age and +temperament that rendered him less liable to the endemic diseases of +such a climate,[28] while his patience, perseverance, and medical +skill, enabled him to surmount difficulties which a younger man, by his +rashness, would only increase. The son, a young sailor, just entering +life, full of enthusiastic ardour, and, perhaps, of confidence, from +the information he had collected from books, little thinking that +theoretical knowledge is of no avail in comparison with the practical +study of human nature, particularly amongst savage tribes, which time +and experience alone can give, was, of all persons, the worst qualified +for such an undertaking. He possessed no knowledge whatever of the +country, or the people, and had not a single individual to hold council +with, amongst a variety of savage nations, where he would, +occasionally, meet with some of the most cunning and intriguing people +in the world. I, of course, allude to the Arabs; who alone possess any +influence, or can be supposed to be secure amongst the Africans of the +interior, cut off, as they are, from all European nations on the +coast:--the Mahommedan religion is the only one that is generally +known, and the only written one amongst these people, the rest being +mere superstitious forms and customs: which, however, do not vary, in +any great degree, in the whole country. The Arabs are very jealous of +the ascendancy they possess over the various nations of the continent +of Africa, and studiously endeavour to prevent strangers from +traversing the interior, from the fear of losing the influence they +have acquired over this poor, ignorant, and superstitious people. + +It appears singular, that there should have been no rain at Accra, +where their crops were failing for the want of it, although it rained +every day at Cape Coast. There were several heaps of shells on the +beach at Accra, principally consisting of the common cowrie, and the +large muscle. They had been collected for the purpose of undergoing the +process of calcination. In the absence of limestone, they are used as a +substitute, and are considered to produce a finer and stronger lime. + +About sun-set we embarked in the same large canoe from which I landed, +and immediately after our arrival on board, the Eden got under weigh, +when we shaped our course for our ultimate destination, the Island of +Fernando Po, a distance of 530 miles, bearing about E. by S. 1/4 S. +while H.M.S. Esk, left Accra roads for Cape Coast. + +_Friday, 26th_.--After a four days' passage across the Gulf of Guinea, +at seven o'clock this morning, we saw the island of Fernando Po, +bearing S.E. This island can be seen from a considerable distance, +being distinguished by some very high peaks. At four in the afternoon, +the wind fell away nearly to a calm, when we found ourselves close in +with the land, and a current carrying us still closer; however, +fortunately, a light breeze sprung up, when we were glad to stand off +for the night. On the following morning (_Saturday, 27th_) we made +towards the land, sailing along the coast, which presented the most +picturesque, scenery that could well be imagined, until we anchored in +Maidstone Bay, at half past three in the afternoon, 12 fathoms +water--black mud. + +[Illustration: ISLAND OF FERNANDO PO] + +The island of Fernando Po, situated off the western coast of Africa, in +the Gulf or Bight of Biafra, between 3 deg. and 4 deg. N. latitude, and +8 deg. and 9 deg. E. longitude, is about one hundred and twenty miles +in circumference. It is generally believed to have been discovered in +the year 1471, by a Portuguese navigator, who gave it the name of Ilha +Formosa, or the Beautiful Isle, afterwards changed for that of its +discoverer, which it now retains. The Portuguese first established a +settlement upon it which they, however, abandoned, and subsequently +transferred the right of possession to Spain, receiving in exchange the +Island of Trinidad, off the coast of Brazil. + +In the year 1764, a new settlement was founded by Spain, which, after a +lapse of eighteen years, was also abandoned, for causes which have not +been satisfactorily explained, although it is generally believed that a +series of misunderstandings with the natives took place, which +principally produced that result.[29] + +Since this period the island has been left to its native inhabitants, +excepting that various European, and particularly English vessels, have +occasionally touched at it for the purpose of procuring water and yams; +the latter of which it grows the finest in the world, and which the +natives were accustomed to barter for pieces of iron. + +At length, a variety of considerations determined the British +Government to attempt a new settlement on this island; these it may be +proper briefly to state. + +In the first place, the convenient situation of the island, at the +distance of only twenty miles from the main-land of Africa, and in the +immediate neighbourhood of the mouths of the many large rivers which +pour their waters into the Gulf of Biafra, appeared to afford a most +eligible point for checking the slave-trade, of which this position may +be considered the very centre. + +Secondly, it, was imagined,--and the consideration reflects the highest +honour on the humanity of our Government,--that the adoption of the +measure would tend materially to diminish the sufferings of the +miserable objects of human traffic--the unfortunate slaves--who too +frequently sank under the confinement and disease incidental to a +protracted voyage to Sierra Leone, before their liberation could be +legally accomplished. + +In the third place, it was hoped that the greater salubrity of the new +colony would lead to the eventual abandonment of the settlements of +Sierra Leone and Cape Coast Castle, the direful effects of whose +climates upon European life have long been proverbial. The Insular +position of Fernando Po, and the nature of its climate and localities, +appeared to offer an earnest that it would not abound with those, +destructive malaria which have proved, on the neighbouring continent, +so fatal to our brave countrymen. + +I might also advert to the facilities which the situation of Fernando +Po, at the estuaries of so many great rivers, together with its +insularity, holds out for extending and protecting our commercial +relations with Central Africa, and probably extending the blessings of +civilization amongst its inhabitants; these, however, although +important, were minor considerations with the British Government. + +To carry the proposed object into effect, an expedition was fitted oat +in the early part of the summer of 1827, under the command of Captain +William Fitzwilliam Owen, of His Majesty's ship _Eden_, who received +the appointment of superintendent of the colony, and than whom no one +could be better adapted to fulfil the important duties which were to +devolve upon him; Captain Harrison, a highly meritorious and +indefatigable officer, received the chief civil appointment under him. +A number of appropriate artificers, with an abundant supply of the +requisite stores, including several framed wooden houses ready for +immediate erection, were embarked in a transport; and it was arranged +that a body of troops, with an additional number of workmen and +labourers from Sierra Leone, should be attached to the expedition on +its arrival at that settlement. + +On first approaching the island, its mountains were shrouded from view +by heavy clouds and a hazy atmosphere; which, however, gradually +dispersed as we neared the shore, and revealed to the eyes of my +companions a magnificent display of mountain scenery, closely studded +with large trees, and thick with underwood, whose luxuriant foliage of +various tints and hues, blending with the scarcely ruffled bosom of the +ocean, and the retiring clouds, making the sky each moment become more +lucid and transparent, formed such a variegated picture of natural +beauty, that we unanimously hailed it as the land of promise. + +It was not long before the scene began to assume an aspect of +animation, the immediate consequence of our arrival; for, in less than +half an hour after we anchored, a number of canoes, with several +natives in each, who had already been trafficking with the Diadem,[30] +approached us for the purpose of bartering the productions of their +island, namely, yams, fowls, palm-wine in calabashes, fish, some boxes +made of split cane, monkey and snake skins, with other trifling +articles; for pieces of iron hoop, a few inches long, which we +afterwards found they made into two-edged knives, by beating them +between stones, until they succeeded, in shaping the blade to their +purpose, when they fitted it into a wooden handle, from four to six +inches in length. In the first instance, however, they evinced +considerable doubt and timidity, as they did riot venture to come +alongside, but kept the stern of their canoes directed towards us, to +be ready to paddle away on the first show of hostility, while a man +remained in the forepart to carry on the barter. We in vain attempted +to induce them to come on board, for, pointing in reply to their +Fetish, they gave us to understand that this was either prohibited or +imprudent. It was easy to perceive that the natives were fine-looking, +active, middle-sized men, with an agreeable and animated expression of +countenance. The natural colour of their skin was not ascertainable, +the whole body being painted, or rather daubed over with a composition +of clay, or ochre, mixed up with palm-oil. The prevailing colour was +red, which seems to belong more exclusively to the lower classes: some +few, however, had used a yellow, and others a grey pigment, probably as +a mark of distinction, and which we afterwards found appropriated to +the kings, or chief men. The faces were much seamed or scarified, while +other parts of the body, and particularly the abdomen, were more or +less tattoed. It is curious to remark, among the African savages, the +variety of delineations on their skin, tattoed in lines, figures, or +tropes, by way of ornament, fashion, or distinction, in nation and +rank, which, perhaps, cannot be better described than in the words of +the poet:-- + + Prince Giolo and his royal sisters, + Scarr'd with ten thousand comely blisters, + The marks remaining on the skin, + To tell the quality within: + Distinguish'd flashes deck the great, + As each excels in birth or state; + His oylet-holes are more and ampler; + The king's own body was a sampler. + +Their weapons were wooden well-barbed spears, with their points +hardened by fire, each individual being provided with three or four. +We afterwards, however, found that these were not the only means of +defence, as they are possessed of slings, in the use of which they +acquire no inconsiderable expertness. The canoes appeared to be from 15 +to 30 feet in length, and each capable of carrying from three to twelve +persons; these were provided with sails made of a kind of split rattan +matting, of an oblong square form, the longer side placed +perpendicularly, and some of them had a staff erected in the bow, with +a bunch of feathers at the top of it. + +When our muskets were fired at sunset, the whole immediately shoved +off, being evidently much alarmed at the report; and most of them, +hoisting their sails, endeavoured to reach the shore with all possible +celerity. + +_Sunday, October 28_.--Notwithstanding it rained heavily this morning, +a great number of the natives came off to us at an early hour for the +purpose of renewing their barter, to exchange their articles for pieces +of iron, a metal which they appear to hold in the highest estimation, +and which became the almost exclusive medium of our traffic with them. +This metal they wisely prefer, nay, almost worship, for its usefulness; +knives, hatchets, and iron-hoop, rank first in their good opinion, +scissors and razors holding a secondary place; for they deem six inches +in length of old iron-hoop, a quantity which would purchase +half-a-dozen yams, varying from six to twelve pounds each in weight, +far more valuable than the best razor you can present them with; in +short, the _ferri sacra fames_ may here be well substituted for the +_auri fames_ of more civilized nations. We may safely aver, that in our +intercourse with these people, we have the 'love of iron' the chief +exciting principle of their more generous, as well as malignant +passions,--an opinion which many subsequent anecdotes in this narrative +will prove. + +The natives had to-day gained an evident accession of confidence, as +some of them ventured on board, not, however, without many symptoms of +timidity. A boy of twelve years old allowed himself to be conducted +over the ship, and was shewn a variety of articles, of course entirely +novel to him. With these he was, as may be supposed, exceedingly +astonished, but more particularly with a looking-glass, and by the +ringing of a small bell. + +In the course of the day, Captain Owen landed at various points for the +purpose of investigating the localities of the neighbourhood, and with +a view of selecting the most eligible situation for our intended +establishment. Lieutenant Robinson also went on shore to take sights +for comparing the chronometers. Several natives approached the latter +gentleman, offering him yams in barter, but were careful not to come +too near, so long as his men remained armed with muskets. As it was +evident from their signs that they wished these to be laid aside, +Lieutenant Robinson, in order to inspire them with confidence, directed +his party to ground arms, while he and Mr. Jeffery advanced towards +them. Satisfied with this demonstration, their whole anxiety now +appeared to be, how to dispose of their yams, which they professed, by +signs, and with affectation of fatigue, to have brought from a great +distance. They were not a little disappointed that our party, being +unprovided with the necessary medium for payment, hoop-iron, were +unable to effect the purchase. + +_Monday, Oct. 29_.--The natives, who have visited us in great numbers +to-day, are evidently increasing their stock of confidence, and, +indeed, beginning to be, not a little troublesome, as we have no small +difficulty in preventing them from coming on board. At seven o'clock in +the morning we changed our anchorage to the opposite side of the bay, +near the Adelaide islets, and close to Point William. A party went on +shore for wood and water, in the procuring of which they were assisted +by the natives. + +_Tuesday, Oct. 30_.--Captain Owen, having now thoroughly investigated +the vicinity of this place, determined upon the site of our future +settlement. For this purpose, Maidstone Bay, in consequence of its +capacity, (being about four miles and a half from Cape Bullen, its +north-western limit, to Point William); the excellency of its +anchorage, and the smoothness of its water, offered peculiar +advantages; to which may be added, its reception of the waters of the +Baracouta river, with other smaller streams, and the abundance of its +fine fish of various kinds, including two or three species of turtle. +On the south-eastern side, adjoining to coves which have received the +respective names of Clarence and Cockburn Coves, two necks of land +project into the bay, the one named Point Adelaide, with two small +islands off it, bearing the same name; the other Point William. It was +on the latter, constituting a kind of peninsula, projecting nearly six +hundred yards into the sea, that Captain Owen decided upon fixing the +infant settlement, which is probably destined to become the future +emporium of the commerce, as well as the centre of civilization of this +part of the globe,--giving it, out of compliment to His Royal Highness +the Lord High Admiral, the name of Clarence. Besides the above named +peninsula, the new settlement comprises other adjoining lands, which +were afterwards respectively known by the appellations of Bushy Park, +Longfield, Paradise, and New-lands, with some which have not yet +received any name,--the whole constituting an elevated plain, lying +between one and two hundred feet above the level of the sea, and at +present thickly covered with timber and jungle. In Clarence Cove, there +is an excellent spring of water issuing from a cliff, about sixty-six +yards above low water-mark, well calculated to supply the exigencies of +the settlement, and which it is intended to conduct, by means of +shoots, down to the beach. + +[Illustration: SETTLEMENT OF CLARENCE, ISLAND OF FERNANDO PO] + +The above situation having been finally decided upon, Captain Owen +determined to lose no time in commencing operations, and, in the course +of the day, notwithstanding it proved rainy, a party of a hundred +Kroomen and other black labourers, were landed, under the command of +Mr. Vidal, the senior lieutenant, and immediately began to clear a road +through the jungle, to the spot selected for the new town. + +Accompanied by Mr. Morrison, I also went ashore at Baracouta, for the +purpose of inviting the supposed king of the island, but who, we have +since reason to believe, is only the chief of a tribe. His Majesty +would have accepted our invitation, had not his attendants offered a +strong opposition: all we could gain was a promise that he would visit +us early on the following morning. Our interpreter was a black soldier +of the Royal African Corps, named Anderson, who professed to have some +acquaintance with the language of the islanders. We found afterwards, +however, that his Fernandian vocabulary was scarcely more copious than +a sensible parrot might acquire in a month: his knowledge of the +English, at all events, was so exceedingly defective, as to make +another interpreter necessary, to explain what he meant to express, in +our language. This man was left to pass the night at the royal +residence, in order that he might avail himself of opportunities to +inspire his Majesty with confidence, and be ready to accompany him on +his visit in the morning. + +_Wednesday, Oct. 31_.--The steam-vessel (_African_) arrived to-day, and +brought in two vessels under Brazilian colours, which Lieutenant +Badgeley had boarded and detained, under strong suspicion of their +being engaged in the slave-trade. + +At nine o'clock, the King of Baracouta, accompanied by his brother and +five or six other chiefs, came on board according to promise, and +without betraying any symptoms of timidity. The party were immediately +conducted to the captain's cabin, and entertained with wine and +biscuit, which they appeared to partake of with considerable relish. +His Majesty, however, had not come unprovided, his canoe having been +stored with some calabashes of palm-wine, which he sent for and +distributed freely. We partook of this wholesome beverage, but some of +the natives mixed it with Madeira. I must not omit to mention that, +whether as a point of etiquette, or intended as an expression of +gratitude for the attentions they were receiving, the King, and his +Chiefs, were particularly desirous of rubbing their long beards against +those of our party who happened to be possessed of a similar ornament. +Amongst other circumstances which gave them satisfaction, they were +highly gratified by sitting on our chairs; and we have since learned, +that, in their own residences, they are in the habit of using logs of +wood for this purpose, a custom differing from many of the African +nations. + +A description of their dress, which was in the most fanciful savage +taste, cannot fail to be interesting. In the first place, the body was +completely smeared over with the kind of paint I have before described: +His Majesty's colour, like that which distinguishes the imperial family +of China, being yellow, while the livery of his attendants was dark +red. The hair of the head was dressed in long small curls hanging down +behind, and which, instead of hair powder and pomatum, were well +stiffened with ochre and oil: in front, similar curls dividing from the +forehead, hung down on each side below the ears, somewhat in the style +of Vandyke's female portraits of the age of Charles I. The forehead was +generally round, sufficiently elevated to give phrenological +indications of a fair portion of intellect, and, perhaps, unusually +well displayed by a custom which prevails of having the hair shorn in +front an inch beyond the line of its natural growth, so as, in +conjunction with the peculiar disposition of curls before described, to +leave the part fully exposed. In some instances, seven or eight strings +of beads, in imitation of the natural curls, were adjusted with much +care over the forepart of the head, and conducted separately behind the +ears, the end of each string reaching down to the shoulders. This +singularly ornamental head-dress was surmounted by a flatfish +low-crowned hat, with a narrow brim, the whole shape not a little +resembling that of Mambrino's helmet; the frame-work, constructed of +loosely wove split rattan, was covered over and ornamented with leaves, +the bones of monkeys and other animals, and a few white, and +occasionally red, feathers; the latter of which appeared to have been +dyed in the blood of some animal. This hat was secured to the head by a +skewer, which passed through the crown, and penetrated a tuft of hair +collected above the vertex. The neck, arms, body above the hips, and +the legs below the knee, were encircled by ornamental bands, in the +form of bracelets, which were, for the most part, composed of strings +of beads, or the vertebrae of small snakes; to the girdle, which thus +surrounded the body, was appended, hanging down in front, the only +article of covering which they can be said to wear, consisting of the +skin of some animal, and which, in many instances, was decorated with a +bunch of herbage. His Majesty, however, as a mark of distinction, wore +also a similar covering behind. + +After having been entertained in the cabin, we conducted the party +along the main-deck, and shewed them our horses, oxen, pigs, &c., with +the whole of which they were highly gratified, especially with the cow, +whose tail was a source of ineffable delight to them, each of them +handling it in succession, plucking out its hairs, and shaking it with +every indication of astonishment. The band was directed to play for +their amusement, and delighted them to such a degree, that they could +not restrain themselves from running into the midst of it. The King's +brother was so enraptured, that he capered about with excess of joy, +making the most uncouth gestures in accordance with the music. + + "So play'd Orpheus, and so danced the brutes." + +Our more difficult task was yet to be encountered--the distribution of +presents. His yellow Majesty was in the first place complimented with +the whole of an iron hoop straightened out for the occasion, and also +with half a dozen fishing-hooks; to his brother we gave half the +quantity: while the minor chiefs received about a foot in length each. +Some squabbling occurred during this arrangement, which was, at length, +happily concluded, pretty much to the satisfaction of the whole party, +and they left the ship in apparent good humour, evidently highly +gratified with their visit. + +_Thursday, Nov. 1_.--A heavy fall of rain disappointed us in an +arrangement to visit the chiefs on shore. + +_Friday, Nov. 2_.--Notwithstanding it continued to rain heavily at +intervals, I went on shore in company with Messrs. Galler and Morrison, +for the purpose of arranging with the King for the establishment of a +market. On landing, we were surrounded by a number of natives, who +treated us with more kindness than on our preceding visit, not +forgetting, however, both male and female, from the youngest to the +oldest, to importune us incessantly for iron; it was almost dangerous +to take particular notice of any individual, for they immediately +assumed it as an indication of a disposition to make them a present, +and began to double their importunities. Not finding the King or his +chiefs on the beach, we sent to announce our arrival, yet we had to +wait two hours before they condescended to appear. During this time, +Mr. Galler amused himself with shooting monkeys; which appeared to +afford some interest and amusement to the natives, who assisted in +pointing out _the game_, and laughed heartily whenever he missed his +aim. + +At length the King arrived, and we explained as well as we could the +object of our visit, to which he listened with great attention, +appearing to comprehend, so as finally to accede to our wishes. He then +proposed, in order to preserve a mutual good understanding, that, in +the event of any breach of faith on the part of their people, we should +immediately communicate the same to the chiefs, who would take care to +have the delinquent properly punished; while, on the other hand, if any +of our people were guilty of improper conduct towards them, they would +represent it to our chief. This proposal, after a deliberate +discussion, was agreed to on both, sides, the contract confirmed by +drinking palm-wine, and a mutual exchange of presents, as follows, we +tendered an axe to the King, and he returned the compliment by +presenting us with a fowl. + +We now proposed to accompany his Majesty back to his village. With this +he appeared perfectly acquiescent, taking me by the hand, and leading +me forward, as if he were conducting me to the point proposed; but we +soon found that his real intention was to lead us to our boats. We +still, however, imagined that this was only with the view of taking us +some nearer way home; but when we wished him to enter the boat, with +the intention of coasting it to another part of the shore, he +positively declined, giving us to understand that his house was not +good enough to receive us, and that it contained nothing in the shape +of refreshments sufficient to do honour to the visit. We were, however, +predetermined, and, as our interpreter was acquainted with the way, +proceeded with Captain Smith and Mr. Jeffery, in addition to our former +party. When we arrived, we were ready to admit that his Majesty had +some reason not to be over-anxious for our company: for neither was the +road, nor the accommodations of his hut, calculated either for a visit +of pleasure or ceremony; in many parts the path was not only slippery, +but interrupted by roots of trees and pools of water; added to which, +it lay through a thick jungle, which swarmed with myriads of ants. His +Majesty's hut was a mere thatched roof, the eaves of which nearly +reached to the ground, supported by posts, and with only one end +protected from the weather; the chief articles of furniture were logs +of wood, as substitutes for stools, and an inclined plane of wood, five +feet in length, to serve the purpose of a bed, the pillow of which was +a round bar, three or four inches in diameter, supported at the proper +height by two brackets. The king's brother, who had arrived first, +received us with much good humour, but regretted that he had nothing to +entertain us with. In a short time, however, a calabash of stale +palm-wine was handed in, which, having first tasted, according to the +African custom, with a view of proving that it contained no poison, he +presented to us. After resting a short time, we returned to our boats. + +In order to prosecute the formation of the now colony with the greatest +energy, every hand which could possibly be spared, was sent on shore. A +better approach to Point William, the acclivity being more gentle, was +discovered this morning, and a large party immediately employed in +clearing away the timber and brushwood, for the purpose of making a +broad road through it. + +_Saturday, Nov. 3_.--The Eden was moved nearer to Point William and the +Adelaide Islands, for the greater convenience of landing the working +parties, stores, &c. The steam-vessel and her prizes also left their +anchorage in the bay, and moved into Clarence Cove. Not a single canoe +was visible on the water, and very few natives on the shore; we were +informed by our interpreter, that they were occupied with the funeral +of a chief, but suspect that the different tribes were assembled in +council to discuss the subject of our arrival, and our evident +intention to form a settlement among them. + +_Nov. 4_.--Some native chiefs were much delighted with sitting in our +chairs; but, when the Captain presented them with a few knives, small +looking-glasses, and other trinkets, their delight was raised to +rapture, expressed by clapping their hands and singing certain short +sentences in a high tone of voice, at the same time bowing their heads, +as if to indicate their readiness to admit our superiority. We were +afterwards informed, that these songs were in our praise, and implied +the following meaning:--"Truly you are come to do us good." We +entertained them with palm-wine, Madeira, biscuit, fish, and yams; we +found, however, on this, as on all other occasions, that these +unsophisticated people preferred their native viands to our European +delicacies. They appeared much interested with the three European +females we had on board; but, whether they had sufficient taste to +prefer them to their native beauties, I shall not pretend to determine. +After remaining two hours on board, they took their leave, and returned +to the shore. + +_Monday, November 5_.--Anderson, who had been absent two days, returned +this morning in a large canoe of seventeen paddles, accompanied by the +same party of chiefs who had visited us yesterday, with, however, an +addition of the king's son. Before coming alongside, they pulled round +the ship, singing most loudly and merrily. Though Captain Owen was on +shore, they were taken into the cabin, and entertained until his +return, after which he gave a present to each of them. Notwithstanding +this liberality, the principal chief fixed his covetous eye upon an +axe, and expressed a most eager desire to become possessed of it. +Captain Owen, however, notwithstanding his wish to conciliate the +natives as much as possible, did not think proper to gratify his +cupidity; but he promised, that it should be presented to the King at +the next interview with him. In the afternoon, a tornado arose and +drove most of the canoes away; the chiefs, however, remained on board +until it was over, and then left us under an arrangement that the +Captain should pay a visit to the King on the following Wednesday. + +_Tuesday, Nov. 6_.--We had a wet morning, succeeded by a fine day. Many +canoes, full of natives, came alongside. About noon, a native was +discovered, by the master-at-arms, to have stolen an axe, which he had +secreted in a piece of canvas that he had picked up and tied round his +waist in the manner of an apron. On taking it from him, he made a +desperate attempt to escape, by running down the ship's side into a +canoe, from whence he made his way over several others, with a view of +reaching his own, but he was arrested in his progress. A warm +discussion now arose among the chiefs present, as to the punishment he +ought to be subjected to, having been taken _flagrante delicto_, under +their own eyes. Captain Owen, to evidence his high displeasure at the +transaction, cut the matter short, by ordering them all out of the +ship. This gave rise to another commotion and discussion, the result of +which was, that the culprit was assailed on all sides by his countrymen +with their paddles; even a boy in the same canoe inflicted several +blows, and he was finally severely injured about the head and body, +when, with the blood streaming from various parts, he was compelled to +leap into the sea, in order to wash it away, before they would allow +him to re-enter his own boat. His punishment, however, did not +terminate with the above discipline; for as he assisted in paddling his +canoe ashore, his countrymen followed him with every denunciation of +vengeance. On landing in the neighbourhood of our market, he was +seized, conducted a short distance from the beach, and surrounded by an +immense crowd of the natives. Mr. Jeffery, who happened to be near the +spot, penetrated into the midst of them, with a view of ascertaining +the nature of the affair, when, to his surprise, he was immediately +laid hold of, and tied hand to hand with the bleeding prisoner. It may +be imagined that this proceeding excited considerable alarm in Mr. +Jeffery, who was led to infer that the wounds of the prisoner had been +inflicted by our people, and that the natives were about to retaliate +upon himself. A soldier, who was passing at the moment, lost no time in +giving an alarm at the camp, when Capt. Harrison came with a party of +soldiers to the assistance of our comrade; but Mr. Jeffery had, by this +time, contrived to disengage his hand; and, our people appearing, the +natives desisted from farther attempts upon him. It turned out that +their object in offering this apparent violence, was merely to secure +an evidence on our side of the final punishment of their countryman, +which they now proceeded to carry into effect in the following +extraordinary manner:--the poor wretch was, in the first place, tied +hand and foot with his back to a tree, after which a discussion took +place, between the chiefs and a man, whom we conceived to be a priest. +This being finished, one of the chiefs, who, in consequence of the +prominent part he played in this dramatic scene, was ever after known +among us by the honourable name of Cut-throat, very coolly stepped up +to the prisoner, the whole of the natives at the same time falling on +their knees, and was proceeding with great deliberation to cut his +throat, when Captain Harrison and Mr. Jeffery hastened forward, and +prevented the perpetration of the act by holding back his arm, and +making signs that our chief was coming. Fortunately, Capt. Owen was +actually coming on shore at this juncture, and, having passed to the +centre of the assembly, by means of signs succeeded in explaining that +it was not his wish to have the man so severely punished. He then took +him by the hand, led him through the crowd, and thus liberated him from +the sanguinary vengeance of his own countrymen. During the whole of +this trying occasion, the prisoner neither shrunk from the numerous and +severe blows inflicted upon him in the earlier part of it; nor, in the +latter part, did he indicate the slightest symptom of fear. This is one +of the many traits we met with of either the great fortitude or little +sensibility of these islanders. + +[Illustration: CUT THROAT] + +We were much surprised at finding a Demi-John in the woods at the back +of our encampment; it certainly indicates that we are not the first +Europeans who have visited this spot. + +_Wednesday, November 7_.--Anderson, accompanied by two chiefs, came on +board at 9 A.M. to say, that the King was on the beach, waiting for our +boat to fetch him off. At eleven, the Captain, accompanied by several +of his officers, myself, the band, and a party of marines, with a +variety of presents, went in three boats for the purpose of paying our +intended visit to his Majesty. We landed at a small cove, three miles +to the eastward of the ship, since known by the name of King-Cove, and +were conducted by the chiefs to a small open place in the woods, at the +distance of about a hundred yards from the rocky shore, where the +natives had placed a number of stones in the water in such manner as to +leave a channel for only one canoe to land at a time. When the Captain +was seated, a small ram, and several calabashes of palm-wine, were +brought forward. After waiting an hour, the King arrived, when the +Captain, rising to receive him, ordered a red cloak to be thrown over +his shoulders, and a velvet cap to be put on his head; as his Majesty +wore his native hat, ornamented with a pair of ram's horns on the fore +part of it, it became necessary to place the velvet one above it, and +secure it in its position by means of a bone skewer, which, piercing +both at the same time, fastened them effectually to the tuft of hair on +the top of the head. The sight of our presents, but more particularly +the quantity of iron, excited so uncontrollably the feelings of the +royal party, that the good order previously observed, could now no +longer be maintained; we were pressed upon on all sides, and with such +an inconceivable clatter and confusion of tongues, that the bellowing +of cattle would have been comparatively musical to our ears; however, +to do them justice, notwithstanding this horrid din, they did not make +the least attempt upon our persons or property. It was noticed that the +King himself gave away several small pieces of iron to certain +individuals, probably an act of policy, which, by leading others to +expect a similar token of royal favour, would restrain them from +attempting to help themselves, and thus diminish the quantum of his own +presents. During this scene of confusion, we retired to the beach and +entered our boats, the crowd following us to the shore, and many even +into the water. On this occasion, we calculated that there could not +have been less than two thousand natives assembled, including many +women, but they were kept apart from the men. Mr. Galler spoke to some +of them; but they were excessively timid, although the men endeavoured +to encourage familiarity by placing some of the younger women's hands +into his. One peculiarity was remarked on the present occasion, that +many of the natives had lost one of their hands, and some both, indeed +we found this so common in the island, that there was no doubt of the +deprivation of this part of the body being resorted to as a punishment. +Before returning to the ship, I went with Messrs. Galler and Jeffery to +visit the works at Clarence, when we were informed that the men +employed in clearing the jungle, had discovered the Indian-rubber tree, +and one or two other indigenous plants which had not been previously +noticed. + +_Thursday, November 8th_.--The importance of our acquiring a knowledge +of the language of the natives of this island, must be obvious. In +order to promote this object. Captain Owen selected an active and +intelligent young man of the name of Elwood, who volunteered to reside +for a week at a village in the interior of the island; and he left the +ship this morning in pursuance of the plan. The Captain this day fixed +upon a spot for the site of a house intended for his own residence: he +also gave the name of Paradise to a portion of ground which had been +cleared to form a garden for the use of the colony, and changed the +appellation of Glover's Stairs for that of Jacob's Ladder. This +consists of a flight of 150 steps, leading from the beach to the +acclivity on which Clarence is situated that had been constructed, +since our arrival, by Mr. Glover, and his body of English artificers. + +_Friday, 9_.--During the night there had been much thunder and +lightning, succeeded, in the morning, by heavy rains, which went off at +eleven o'clock, and recommenced at two, accompanied by strong gusts of +wind; at four, it cleared up again: scarcely a canoe or native was to +be seen throughout the day. + +_Saturday, 10_.--The weather is to-day extremely fine, and yet very few +canoes or natives have been seen: and none have approached the ship. We +apprehend that something has occurred to displease them--a suspicion +afterwards confirmed. In the afternoon, at the time I happened to be on +shore, a deputation of seven chiefs came to Mr. Jeffery, at Newmarket, +with a complaint that our Kroomen had been cutting down the palm-trees +for the leaves to thatch their huts with; and, also, that they were +much annoyed by the frequent firing of muskets. In reply to the latter +complaint, Mr. Jeffery explained to them, that the firing proceeded +only from the attempts of our officers to shoot monkeys; to confirm +which statement, the purser very opportunely came up at the instant +with a large monkey and a small deer, which he had just shot. They did +not, however, appear properly satisfied; for they shook their heads, +and intimated that, if we persevered in cutting down the palms, it +would not only deprive them of the advantages of that valuable tree, +but, by diminishing the quantity of wood, extend the system of firing +musketry farther into the interior of the country. At length, with a +view of settling all grievances, and convincing them we had no +intention of inflicting any injury, we took them a short distance +beyond the points our men were occupied in clearing, and, placing a +quantity of iron on the ground, gave them, by signs, to understand, +that we would give them all that iron for the land contained within +that boundary. The nature of this treaty for purchase, they appeared to +understand well, and signified their assent by placing sticks, at equal +distances from each other, in the line proposed. Mr. Jeffery, at the +same time, marking a tree as an evidence of the agreement on our side. +The quantity of land of which we had thus made a _bona fide_ purchase, +was equal to about a square mile in extent. The treaty was afterwards +more fully ratified, and the property involved formally taken +possession of by a public act, which will be duly noticed. Both parties +being now satisfied, we returned to Newmarket, the natives accompanying +us, and, sitting down in a row together, farther confirmed the bargain +by plentiful libations of palm-wine. + +_Sunday, 11_.--At half-past one divine service was performed by Captain +Owen, when four of the natives attended, and behaved with great +decorum; they also made signals to their companions in the canoes to +avoid all noises which might disturb us. + +_Monday, 12_.--A numerous deputation of chiefs, gaily dressed, came to +our camp at Clarence, to conclude a definitive arrangement respecting +the land we had purchased on Saturday. Captain Owen accompanied them to +the boundary line, and marked an additional number of trees, to define +the limits with more accuracy. He also promised them additional +payments: after which he took four of the principal chiefs on board, +drank palm-wine with them, and made them a variety of presents. +Confidence was now fully restored, and great numbers of both sexes +visited us before the day terminated. + +_Tuesday, 13_.--We have additional proofs of the return of confidence +on the part of the natives: a man and a boy insisted on remaining on +board to sleep, probably induced by the anticipation of a present. +There never were more harmless, inoffensive, or tractable people: for, +when most troublesome, they may be led in any direction you choose, by +taking hold of the hand, or even of a finger. + +---------- +[26] Accra is a European corruption of the word Inkran which +means an ant. + +[27] The word Fetish is derived, I believe, from the Portuguese word +Fatisa, or Phatisa, which means "a charm." It is used on all occasions +by the natives, when they are asked any question which they do not +understand, or which they do not wish to understand, particularly if it +relate to their religion. Thus the sacrifice, the rocks, and the sacred +groves where they imagine their deities dwell, are all called Fetish: +also, their priests, or priestesses, when they are going through any +antic ceremonies, are said to be making Fetish, and are consequently +called Fetish men or Fetish women. Some have regarded the Fetish as an +object of worship to the natives of Africa; it ought, however, more +properly to be considered only as a _charm_, to which a superstitious +and reverential feeling is paid; in which an implicit confidence is +reposed. Whether it be intended to exercise a public or a private +function, it consists of some body, either animate or inanimate, +selected according to fancy, as a dog, cat, tiger, snake, an egg, the +bone of a bird, a piece of wood, a feather, or any other substance: +this is rendered sacred or endowed with its supposed virtues by +peculiar ceremonies, and afterwards honoured with a species of worship, +vows of abstinence from particular or occasional pleasures, and other +services; in return, the party to which it belongs looks up to it for +protection and assistance on all occasions--if successful, he +attributes it to its intervention; if unlucky, to its displeasure. + +[28] In my opinion, no man under thirty years of age, should think of +travelling in an unhealthy country; before that age, the constitution +is more liable to the infection of the endemic diseases of a hot +climate than afterwards. Perhaps, between forty and fifty would be the +best age--"ceteris paribus." + +[29] The following extract from the letter-book of the late African +Company, throws considerable light upon this subject: + + 'Cape Coast Castle, 30th January, 1783. + + 'Captain Lawson, who has been lately at the islands of Princes and St. + Thomas, says that the Governor, who was inimical to the English, is + returned to Portugal; he hired to the Spaniards at Fernando Po, one + hundred soldiers to make reprisals on the English, in consequence of + Captain Ragan having endeavoured to cut out of the island a Spanish + packet, which was there in March and April last. Captain West of his + Majesty's ship _Champion_, cruized off Fernando Po, two days in July + last, in order to fall in with a frigate of thirty guns, and a sloop + of fourteen, but, being both in the harbour, they would not come out. + These two vessels remained in St. Thomas's in October last, where they + had carried 200 troops, the only remains of 3000 that had originally + been sent to Fernando Po, where the Spaniards had made a settlement, + and landed a great quantity of brass cannon, and all kinds of military + stores; but the natives were so disgusted with the Spanish Government, + that they poisoned the water, which caused a great mortality and + obliged the survivors to go away. However, previous to their departure, + they dismounted and buried the cannon and all the stores; and, after + they were gone, the natives demolished all the fortification, and threw + the stones into the sea. A few Portuguese natives of St. Thomas's who + for misdemeanors had been sold to the Spaniards by the Portuguese + Government, are now remaining in the island ready to shew where the + cannon and stores are buried; and, from what Captain Lawson has heard, + the natives seem to wish that the English would come and settle among + them, promising to render us every assistance in their power in + erecting a settlement there. The importance of the trade carried on to + Leeward having already been represented to you, I shall not add on the + subject.' + +---------- +[30] The Diadem arrived in the bay a few hours before us. + + + + +CHAP. IX. + +Native Simplicity--Resources of the Blind--Royal Village--Gathering of +Natives--Native Priests--Royal Feast--Inhospitable Treatment-- +Uncomfortable Quarters--Vocabulary of the Native Language--Beauty of +the Female Character--Women of Fernando Po--Anecdotes--Aspect of the +Country--Productions--Preparations for the Settlement--Discovery of a +Theft--Mimic War Customs--Native Chiefs--Female on Board--Monkey for +Dinner--Flogging a Prisoner--Accident to a Sailor--A Voyage of Survey +round the Island--River named after the Author--Geographical and +Meteorological Observations--Insubordination--A Man Overboard--Deserter +taken--Death of the Interpreter--Method of Fishing--Visitors from St. +Thomas--Ceremony of taking Possession of Fernando Po--Interview with a +Native Chief--Celebration Dinner--Indirect Roguery--Chief and his +Wife--Hospital near Point William--The Guana--Mistake at Sea-- +Suggestions on the Slave-Trade--Fishing Stakes--Schooner on a Mud-flat + + +_Thursday, Nov. 15_.--Soon after landing this morning, I fell in with a +party of natives, with whom I shook hands, as usual, when a young +female, whom I had frequently met in the market-place, with her +parents, perceiving that I did not immediately recognize her as an old +acquaintance, with the most natural simplicity, placed my hand on her +bosom, in the presence of her relations and countrymen, who all laughed +heartily, and appeared to enjoy my astonishment very much. If, however, +any of us had ventured upon such a liberty of our own accord, the men +would have been highly indignant, for they were extremely jealous of +their women, and did not like us to shew them any marked attention, by +purchasing their articles first, or making them a present in preference +to themselves:--such a distinction, in contradiction to the usages of +civilized society, being considered derogatory by these savage lords of +the creation. + +Matthew Elwood, the young man who had been sent into the interior, +returned to-day, and I am afraid without having derived much advantage +from his journey. I expect, however, an opportunity of adverting more +fully to its results at a future time. A quantity of bricks were landed +for the purpose of constructing a forge. The natives soon found out +that they possessed the property of sharpening their knives, and began +to shew a very eager desire to become possessed of them. + +_Friday, 16_.--The natives have crowded upon us in such numbers, that +we have taken up the stakes which enclosed the market, with the +intention of holding it in future without the boundary line. Several +unpleasant occurrences have taken place, partly the fault of our own +people, who have been criminal enough to sell their tools, and partly +of the natives, who have been eager to purchase them. The following +are, perhaps, the average terms on which our barter has been conducted: +an axe would purchase a sheep, or a goat; and three or four inches of +iron hoop, from two to four fowls, from eight to twelve yams, or two or +three calabashes of palm-wine, each containing about one gallon. + +_Saturday, 17_.--The number and confidence of the natives continued to +increase, as well as the annoyance we experience from their +importunities;--it had been found necessary to protect the market by a +guard of soldiers. On returning from the market to-day, near the border +of Hay river, a party were daring enough to snatch the sentinel's +bayonet from out of its scabbard, and throw it into the river. The +soldier, however, succeeded in recovering it, and, to deter them from +proceeding to greater lengths, fired his musket over their heads. This +alarmed them so excessively, that away they scampered like a flock of +sheep, without daring to cast a look behind; indeed, such is their +terror of fire-arms, that it is only with the greatest difficulty that +they can be persuaded to touch a musket. + +_Monday, Nov. 19_.--The young man, named Matthew Elwood, who had so +recently returned from his visit in the interior, where he had been +sent by Capt. Owen, with a view of acquiring some knowledge of their +language, volunteered to repeat it, accompanied by another young man, +and they had now been two days at the same village a few miles distant +from the settlement, where the King resided. Anxious to lose no +opportunity of obtaining information respecting the manners and customs +of this singular people, I determined on joining the party, and fixed +upon the present day for my journey. I have ever, throughout life, but +perhaps more particularly since the loss of my sight, felt an intense +interest in entering into association with human nature, and observing +human character in its more primitive forms: this propensity I have +previously had opportunities of enjoying, in some of the countries most +remote from European knowledge, amidst the wilds of Tartary and the +deserts of Siberia; and I can refer to the indulgence of it many of my +more pleasurable sensations. I know that the world declaims against the +absurdity of an individual, circumstanced like myself, professing to +derive either pleasure or information from such sources, and maintains +that travelling by the fireside would better suit those circumstances, +and convey an equally gratifying interest. I answer confidently that +this is not the case, and that I believe the intensity of my enjoyments +under the system I have adopted, equals, if not surpasses, what other +travellers experience who journey with their eyes open. It is true, I +ascertain nothing _visibly_; but, thank God! I possess most exquisitely +the other senses, which it has pleased Providence to leave me endowed +with; and I have reason to believe that my deficiency of sight is to a +considerable degree compensated, by a greater abundance of the power of +imagination which presents me with facility to form _ideal pictures_ +from the description of others, which, as far as my experience goes, I +have reason to believe constitute fair and correct representations of +the objects they were originally derived from. It must be recollected +that I have formerly enjoyed the power of vision; and, although my +colourings may occasionally be too weak or too vivid, it is fair to +infer that the recollections of my former experience are sufficient to +prevent me from running into gross inaccuracies or incongruities. Place +me, as some have suggested, in the situation of the man in the farce, +and carry me in a limited circle around the same point, under the +assurance that I was travelling to distant and ever-changing scenes, +and support the stratagem by every circumstance calculated to give it +the fullest effect; it would never impose upon me: for the tact which +nature and experience have given me, and the inconceivable acuteness of +perception I derive from it, would immediately detect inconsistencies +scarcely appreciable by others, and at once overturn and expose the +deception which was being practised. + +At 3 o'clock in the afternoon I left the Eden for King Cove, at which +place we found a few natives, who assembled on our landing. Anderson, +the interpreter, had been appointed to conduct me, but Mr. Jeffery +kindly accompanied me for the first half mile, in expectation of +leaving me in the care of a chief of our acquaintance. However, before +we had proceeded far, the assemblage of natives had become so great, +and their importunities to purchase palm-wine and other commodities so +annoying, that I was glad when he returned, under the expectation that +his separation from me would prove, as it did, a diversion which, by +drawing off a considerable part of the natives, would permit me to +continue my journey with less interruption. I now advanced with +Anderson as fast as the paths would admit, being anxious to arrive at +our point of destination that evening; my companion, however, was +desirous of passing the night at the hut of a chief in the +neighbourhood of the beach, and endeavoured to dissuade me from +prosecuting our journey this evening. I have already spoken of the +qualifications of this man as an interpreter, and have now to observe, +that he possessed others, which made him a useful medium of +communication with the natives: for instance, he was a good-tempered +fellow, could laugh heartily whenever they laughed, eat and drink +whatever was placed before him, however repugnant to an European +stomach; and, being somewhat of their own colour, i.e. not many shades +darker, they were inclined to be particularly partial to him. + +Our path was at first tolerably good, and lay through a level country, +but, when we had proceeded about half way, became hilly, rugged, and +slippery, particularly after passing the second of two streams which +intercepted our road. A number of the natives, principally women, +continued to follow, passing evidently a variety of jokes upon us, and +laughing heartily at every false step I happened to make. Before we +reached the end of our journey, the number had increased to many +hundreds, who shouted, and halloed incessantly at the novelty of our +appearance, similar to a European rabble, when following any +extraordinary sight. To relieve Anderson, who had the luggage, I took +hold, for a short time, of the arm of a native, who conducted me well, +until we became surrounded by a crowd of his countrymen, and then, +whether he felt compelled to answer their queries, or was proud of his +charge, or anxious to exhibit the high confidence reposed in him, I +found him a very troublesome guide; for he was constantly turning his +head over my shoulder, and speaking or hallooing to those who were +behind him. + +At length we arrived at the royal village, where Elwood and his +companion came to receive us at the hut that His Majesty had appointed +for our accommodation. It was so late, that my countrymen were +surprised to see us; and, the King having retired, we were obliged to +relinquish the honour of an interview until morning. I therefore took +tea, and was happy in lying down for repose, after my fatiguing +journey. It was not without much concern I learned from Elwood, that, +during the present visit, neither he nor his companion had met with the +hospitable treatment or attention which they had expected; on the +contrary, they had been compelled, immediately after their arrival, to +expose the contents of their bags, and actually obliged to surrender up +to the King one-half of the little stock of iron with which they had +provided themselves for the purpose of barter. The consequence was, +that, after paying three pieces to the natives who had conveyed their +luggage, another for a couple of fowls, and presenting a fifth to +Canning, (a chief who had been Elwood's principal friend on his former +visit, and to whom he had given this distinguished name,) to secure his +good services,--they had only one remaining for their future resources; +and it was by no means satisfactory to be thrown upon the casual +generosity of the natives. It is true, they had with them some salt +beef and biscuit, and it was understood, when they quitted the ship, +that Captain Owen had engaged to compensate the King for their +protection and entertainment. + +_Tuesday, 20_.--At daybreak we were visited by Canning, and several +other chiefs, who brought with them a large yam, and some palm-wine +intended for our breakfast. We were from time to time, in reply to our +inquiries, assured that the King was coming; we waited, however, two +hours in vain expectation, and at length sent Anderson to inquire into +the cause of delay, when we were informed that His Majesty was busily +occupied at his toilet, or, in other words, having his head dressed, in +order, as I suppose, to enable him to appear with more dignity on this +important occasion. About 8 o'clock he made his entree, accompanied by +several of his chiefs. At first his manner was somewhat reserved, but, +after a short conversation, which held out to him the prospect of +receiving presents, confirmed by the actual gift of two large knives +from myself, he became highly animated, loquacious, and agreeable. He +now ordered a plentiful supply of palm-wine, which he caused to pass +freely round; and, after staying with us about an hour, returned to his +own residence, from whence he shortly after sent us half a dozen yams. + +There was a native priest resident in our hut, probably placed there to +observe our conduct, and who, for the whole morning, had been occupied +in smearing himself with coloured clay. We noticed that this man, +during our visit, performed every morning a few religious ceremonies, +and repeated prayers, in which the natives appeared to join. After the +King's departure, he began to exercise some of the more mysterious +functions of his office. I know not what the occasion was, but the +ceremony consisted in frequent repetitions of certain short sentences, +in which the individual on whom he was operating occasionally joined; +and, in the intervals between these sentences, he shook a bundle of +rods over the head of the latter, making, at the same time, a noise +which resembled the squeaking of a pig. + +I am enabled to communicate but little respecting the religious +sentiments of this people. The duties of the priests appear to be more +surgical than clerical; of which opinion the following are +illustrations: A female applied to one of the priests with an +inflammatory tumour on the hand; after making an incision into the +tumour, and squeezing it in a manner which made his patient grin with +pain, he blew and spat upon the part. Upon another person, who had an +abcess of the eye, with an accumulation of some white matter in it, he +performed the following delicate operation: having first applied his +mouth to the part, he began to suck it with great eagerness and +perseverance, after which he ejected from his mouth a chalky-looking +substance, which he appeared to have extracted from the diseased +structure: this process he repeated several times, with a similar +result. These were, at least, substantial duties. + +Our priest had a sacred corner in the hut, with a particular seat which +none else presumed to occupy; the former, a receptacle for dirt, the +latter, formed of a large stone, with four smaller ones, which served +for legs or supporters. + +I endeavoured in vain to gain any satisfactory account of their funeral +ceremonies; no indications of graves have been seen by our people, and +the probability is, as is not unfrequently the custom in Africa, that +they bury their dead under the earthen floor of their huts. I know not +whether this opinion will be deemed as confirmed or not by the fact, +that, in returning from a walk, this afternoon, we passed a closed hut, +with five hats hanging in front of it, the owner of which, we were +informed, had died shortly before our arrival. + +Our friend Canning supplied us with a fowl for dinner, and, when it was +dressed, appeared perfectly ready to assist us in disposing of it. + +The following is, probably, the general mode which these people adopt +of hunting or catching wild animals, of which we had the fortune this +day to meet with a specimen: A goat, which was very wild, had been +secured to a rail, when, taking fright at the approach of my +companions, it contrived, by floundering, to break loose from its +confinement. The King, and some of his chiefs, who were at hand, +immediately ran for some long grass nets, rolled upon poles, and which +were about four feet wide. These they expeditiously unfolded, and then +encircling the goat, very skilfully and speedily recaptured him. They +have, however, other methods of taking wild animals; on enclosing yam +plantations with stakes seven feet high, they place traps at the sides +of the fence. + +_Wednesday, 21_.--We returned His Majesty's visit this morning at eight +o'clock. He received us on the outside of his hut, and seated me on a +stone at his right hand, but immediately after a few words had been +exchanged, he made signs to us to return to our own residence; where on +our arrival, we found he had sent a sheep, with a view of giving us a +sumptuous feast. His Majesty, accompanied by his chiefs, soon after +joined us, and they immediately proceeded to the operation of killing +the sheep, which was conducted in the following manner: The animal +having been first hung up by the hind legs, its throat was cut, care +being taken, in effecting this, not to wound the windpipe. The blood, +as it flowed, was caught in a calabash, and then given to the priest, +probably to be reserved for some religious ceremony. The next process +was to skin the animal, in doing which the operator commenced with a +fore leg, then the corresponding hind one, then the other fore leg, and +so on; he then proceeded to the abdomen, and afterwards completed the +operation in the usual manner. The gall-bag and bladder were now +extracted and thrown away; after which the whole of the remaining +viscera were removed and placed aside for subsequent use. A large +portion of the flesh from one of the shoulders was now presented to the +King, who cut it into the form of a long string, beginning at the +outside, and proceeding to the centre. This he wound round a stick, and +held over a blazing fire, until half broiled; and, then dividing it +into a number of small pieces, distributed them to the party around +him, doing myself the honour of presenting me with the first piece. The +remainder of the animal was, in the next place, taken within our hut, +where the stomach and intestines, without any other preparation than +imperfectly squeezing out their contents, were warmed over the fire, +and then, in nearly a raw state, divided among the natives, who ate +them with great relish, the King receiving his portion with the rest. +His Majesty now presented our party with a leg, shoulder, breast, and +small saddle, and afterwards divided what remained among his chiefs, +reserving the head for himself, which, after being well scorched, he +ordered to be taken to his hut. + +A more curious part of this singular feast remains to be described. On +opening the animal, it was found to be with young, when the uterus, +containing two lambs, each about six inches long, was, as a particular +mark of favour or respect, placed in my hands: but, not appreciating +the gift so highly as probably had been expected, I immediately laid it +aside. After the departure of the King, it was a second time brought to +me, and I now contrived, by shaking my head, and other demonstrations, +to make them comprehend that I did not intend to make use of it, and +that it was entirely at their service. This was, without doubt, very +agreeable intelligence; for, having pricked the sac, to allow the +liquor to drain away, and laid it for a short time before the fire, the +whole was divided into portions, and eaten up apparently with avidity +and delight. + +The above meal was purely carnivorous, for neither yams nor palm-wine +were introduced as accompaniments; in the afternoon, however, his +Majesty made us another short visit, and sent a quantity of wine. We +offered the natives salt to their meat, but they refused it with every +sign of disgust, and even wanted to throw away our little store of +this, to us, so necessary a condiment. They also shewed an equal +dislike to tobacco; and, when one of our party made preparations for +smoking a cigar, the priest held out his rod as if in prohibition, +while others endeavoured to prevent him from lighting it. Canning, +indeed, who had witnessed more frequently the practice of smoking on +board, shewed less aversion. + +Though we were at a considerable distance from the settlement, we could +hear the reports of the morning and evening gun; for the first two or +three days, the natives appeared, or pretended to be, much alarmed at +this, as they halloed for some time after. They would frequently come +up to us, levelling a stick like a musket, and accompany the action +with bang! bang! We had reason to consider them much afraid of every +species of fire-arms, and I cannot but think it would be good policy to +keep this apprehension alive, rather than to endeavour to remove it by +attempts to explain the principles of their action, and to familiarise +them with the effects. In this respect, I deem the general practice of +our voyagers and travellers to be decidedly faulty, since the superior +advantages which fire-arms give, may be said to constitute our chief +compensation for deficiency of numbers, and thus enable us to preserve +that vast pre-eminence which we possess over the uncivilised +inhabitants of newly-discovered countries. If the policy of our +Government requires an intercourse with savage nations, both prudence +and humanity justify our retaining the means of commanding that +intercourse, by the superiority of our modes of defence; for, in the +event of hostile collision, the numbers of the savages, possessed as +they are, individually, of physical strength and bodily activity, at +least equal to our own, could scarcely fail to be overwhelming. This +also agrees with Vaillant's opinion, for he remarks, that, "when you +travel among savages, you ought never to employ your arms, or shew the +use of them, except to render them a service, either by procuring them +game, or destroying such ferocious animals as are obnoxious to +them."--_Vaillant_, vol. ii. p. 127. + +About ten o'clock this evening, a great noise from persons talking +commenced in the village, accompanied, at times, by loud hallooing, and +a clattering of a kind of rattle-boxes, which many of the natives wear +around the neck, and which somewhat resembles the upper half of the +leathern-case of a spirituous-liquor bottle, within which is appended a +clapper made generally of a sheep's jawbone. This noise, the meaning of +which I could not comprehend, continued, with little interruption, +throughout the night. + +_Thursday, Nov. 22_.--Soon after breakfast, the King sent for us to his +hut, and regaled us with palm-wine, poured out by the fair hand of a +young female, whom my companions pronounced the most beautiful they had +seen in this island, and whom we supposed to be his Majesty's favourite +wife. On this occasion, he took the opportunity of reminding us of the +presents he expected to receive from Captain Owen, and directed some of +his chiefs to shew us those which he intended to offer in return, +consisting of sheep, fowls, &c. &c. We were then conducted to our hut, +and given to understand, by signs, that it was his Majesty's pleasure +we should forthwith pack up our luggage, and return to our settlement. +We thought, however, it would be more pleasant to take an early dinner +first, and with this intention commenced the preparation of a kind of +Irish stew, consisting of mutton and yams: being defective in the +latter article, we requested a further supply; but this did not please +our hosts, and it was intimated that we should find plenty at the end +of our journey. We still, however, urged our wishes, when, at length, +they brought us a couple of pieces. We could not avoid expressing +dissatisfaction at this scanty supply, when they began to assume a very +savage and sulky appearance; even our friend Canning arose with a +menacing countenance, and laying hold of his spears, threatened to +compel our immediate departure. It would have been imprudent to +continue to irritate them at this juncture, and at best have only +exposed our own weakness: we therefore thought we should most preserve +our dignity, and, at the same time, retain a just ground of complaint +of their want of hospitality, by giving way to their wishes, yet not +without evident signs of our high dissatisfaction. I believe they had, +subsequently, reason to repent of their conduct, as Capt. Owen +afterwards treated them with apparent coldness, and probably abridged +his intended presents: not but that they were amply remunerated, +although the measure of it fell short of their own expectations. We +took our dinner deliberately, notwithstanding this urgency, and then +commenced our journey, accompanied by Canning and another chief; +besides an old man, who had resided in the hut with us, carrying our +luggage. We were soon joined by the persons who carried the presents +intended for Captain Owen. We also met the King, but he, instead of +accompanying us, as we had expected, went off immediately to his own +residence, bearing on his shoulders a quantity of wood, for the use, as +we supposed, of the royal household; we shook hands with his Majesty on +taking our final leave. + +As on the journey up the country, we had, on our return, great numbers +of idle people following us, either from motives of curiosity or +interest, and teazing us to give them palm-wine, iron, &c. The road, in +various places, was extremely rugged and narrow, with steep declivities +from the sides to the centre, and very slippery from the rain that had +fallen in the morning. We again crossed two streams, the chief of +which, although broad and rapid, was not sufficiently deep to be +dignified with the title of a river. Towards evening, we arrived at +King Cove, where, proceeding to the beach, we washed the clay from our +trowsers, and then went to our quarters for the night. + +The hut in which we took up our residence, consisted of a wooden roof, +thatched with palm-leaves, and supported on stancheons of wood; the +leaves, on all sides, approaching within two or three feet of the +ground, indeed so low, that it made it very inconvenient to get in or +out; for, unless great caution was observed, there was considerable +risk of getting wounded by the prickles on the leaves of the palm-tree. +Previously to its becoming dark, we were invited to drink palm-wine on +the outside of our hut; and, afterwards retiring within, our native +companions employed themselves busily enough in roasting and eating +their yams, while we enjoyed the refreshing beverage of tea. We then +lay down for the night; but, alas! not to sleep; for, although our hut +was not very large, it contained about twenty persons of different +sexes and ages, who were, of course, pretty closely stowed: and from +its not being closed at the sides, with much thunder and lightning +taking place, accompanied by high wind and heavy rain, which continued +throughout the greater part of the night, the latter beat in under the +roof, and also drove the smoke of three fires towards us, until we were +nearly suffocated. It will be conceived, that our situation was not the +most enviable; those near the outside were exposed to the pitiless +storm; while they who occupied the centre, where we had spread our +hammocks, were necessarily oppressed with heat and smoke. About two +o'clock, some of the natives, finding it impossible to sleep, got up +and amused themselves until daylight in conversation, and roasting yams +on the fire. + +_Friday, 23_.--At day-break, the whole of the natives rose and +commenced their yam feast, succeeded by plentiful supplies of +palm-wine. As the heavy winds and rain shewed no appearance of abating, +we began to doubt whether we should get on board to-day; however, about +eight o'clock, it moderated, and before noon, the weather was +sufficiently favourable to induce us to make the attempt. Having taken +our seats in the canoes, together with the chiefs who accompanied us, a +party of the natives urged them over the surf, and away we paddled for +the ship, which we reached in less than a couple of hours. Before +getting on board, however, we were treated with a specimen of eager +covetousness and want of decorum in our late friends; for, instead of +waiting to allow us to get up first, or offering to assist us, no +sooner did the canoe touch the ship, which she happened to do under the +main-chains, than away they all started with their presents, leaving us +to bring the boat to the gangway, and get out as well as we could; they +even gave up all care for the safety of the canoe; the consequence of +which was, that _they left us adrift in it_, and the commanding officer +was obliged to send a boat to bring her alongside again. + +_Saturday, 24_.--Having now spent some days in what may be termed the +domestic privacy of the island, it will be inferred that I have become +more intimately acquainted with the character of its inhabitants, who +may justly be considered as constituting one of the most extraordinary +races of savages at this time in existence. I shall, therefore, avail +myself of this opportunity of developing farther than has yet been done +in the preceding pages, whatever occurred to me as being most +interesting in their manners, habits, customs, and peculiarities. This +I shall follow up with some details respecting the natural history and +productions of the island; which, however imperfectly they may be +treated, will probably be deemed worthy of attention as subjects of +scientific research. In these descriptions, I must, however, plead +strongly for the indulgence of my readers, as many serious obstacles +have opposed themselves to the inquiry after satisfactory information; +among which, none have been more uncompromising than those experienced +in acquiring a knowledge of the language; for, although we have been in +constant communication with the natives, at present so little progress +has been made, that our attempts in this respect may be said to have +almost entirely proved abortive. We have, indeed, some reason to +believe that the natives are desirous of throwing impediments in our +way, since, notwithstanding they evince much quickness in catching +words of our language, repeating the orders issued by the officers, and +are also possessed of considerable power of mimicry, they shew little +inclination to communicate their own terms or names. It has not +unfrequently happened, that when, according to the usual custom of +persons who are not conversant with each other's language, we touched, +significantly, any thing which we were desirous of knowing, they used +different words in reply, as if with the intention of confusing us; +and, again, when we believed that we had ascertained the right name +from one source, on inquiring from others, a very different word was +given; so that we eventually remained in doubt as to the proper one. +The few small vocabularies we have succeeded in collecting, seem to +prove that there are distinct dialects, or idioms, among the different +tribes. This is particularly exemplified in the case of the numerals; +for not only are different words used to express the same number, but +peculiar modes of counting are made use of--for instance, one tribe, +after counting five in the usual way, proceeds to ten and twenty; while +another, after going on progressively to ten, starts at once to twenty. +The language itself is, generally speaking, harmonious, most of the +words terminating in vowels, as will be perceived from the subjoined +vocabulary, which is as correct as circumstances would admit of our +obtaining. + +The mode Captain Owen adopted of gaining an insight into the Fernandian +language was, perhaps, the best that could have been devised: viz. the +sending a person to reside with the natives in the interior, as has +been before stated; but the result proved very unsatisfactory; for he +added little to what we had previously acquired. Another mode adopted +was, the promise of a reward to that individual who might gain the +earliest and best knowledge of the subject. + +A VOCABULARY OF THE NATIVE LANGUAGE OF FERNANDO PO. + + _Etwee_, head. + _Isilla_, hair of the head. + _Lotto_, ear. + _Booyah_, mouth. + _Nokko_, eye. + _Lopappo_, eye-lashes. + _Kokalako_, chief, or head man. + _Mohoonka_, chief's wife. + _Icancunee_, little one. + _Ebeo_, boy. + _Ternapo_, mother. + _Murugudu_, eye-brows. + _Vompo and Mompo_, nose. + _Bello_ and _Wello_, tooth. + _Ezaddoo_, beard. + _Lobabbo_, tongue. + _Lobok_, arm. + _Dialla_, hand. + _Aboobooso_, wrist. + _Anne_, finger. + _Jpapo_, thigh. + _Eddo_, and _Etoko_, knee. + _Lopola_, leg. + _Inkakase_, ancle. + _Dekotto_, foot. + _Deballe_, female bosom. + _Babilla_, belly. + _Djakkee_, navel. + _Bopa_. + _Motto_. + _Djeecha_. + _Eppoo_ buttocks. + _Elleboo_, trinket of wood, in form of a bell. + _Motoocko_, belt of shells and pebbles. + _Dpibbo_, bracelet. + _Longebo_, armlet. + _Touno_, black shell bracelet. + _Ebebbo_, snake skin collar. + _Loppollo_, vertebrae of a snake. + _Eboote_, hat. + _Mu-u,_ bulls, or cattle. + _Me-he,_ sheep, or goats, or their flesh. + _Kohoko_, fowls, or their meat. + _Tonatchetolo_, tattoo, or marked. + _Empoo_, dog's jaw. + _Tokko_, round shell ornament like a button. + _Epehaunah_, purse, sheep's scrotum. + _Looka_, man. + _Daka_, woman. + _Labole_, ship. + _Labolechee_, or _Epoode_, boat. + _Wattoo_, canoe. + _Ikahaddee_, long reed, in the stern of canoes. + _Kalsokoola_, sail. + _Nossapo_, mast. + _Inkappa_, paddle. + _Bonokee_, fishing. + _Itokka_, sun. + _Tolo_, moon. + _Bockao_, eggs. + _Boka_, water. + _Mooheelya_, bar of iron. + _Pooripoodee_, cloves. + _Sokolaee_, Chili pepper. + _Epeepee_, tomatos. + _Etoka_, potatoe. + _Saly_, yams. + _Beentok_, or _Lilo_, cocoa tops. + _Topy_, or _Nakko_, palm-wine. + _Loma_, to drink. + _Looba_, or _Bata_, give. + _Taleppa_, take it away. + _Omitta_, to hold. + _Vallee_ anger. + _Atehee_, done, no more, finish, end. + _Anjoo_, come here. + _Sheerskalle_, fine, pretty. + _Boola_, or _Lilla_, or _Illee_, one. + _Epa_, or _Taba_, two. + _Buelly_, or _Twelly_, three. + _Betoh_, or _Totoh_, five. + _Beho_, ten. + _Bo_, fifteen. + _Eeckee_, twenty. + _Olaito_, thirty. + +It would be superfluous to repeat the descriptions which have already, +on various occasions, been given of the persons, dress, and characters +of the male inhabitants of this island. The reader will have inferred, +that they are generally a harmless and inoffensive race of savages: it +may be added, that they are probably the most dirty people existing +under the face of the sun; for, with the exception of occasional +immersions in the sea, when occupied in the affairs of business, we have +never known them to wash themselves. The only systematic method they +appear to adopt of cleansing, as well as of dress, is to give themselves +a new coating of clay and palm-oil, whenever the previous one happens to +be injured. Some few individuals, indeed, appear to renew this covering +as a matter of fashion; particularly one dandy chief, who frequently +changed the colour of his skin, and, in consequence, became familiarly +known to us by the name of Chameleon; and what is singular, this man, +like our European dandies, was in the habit of scenting himself. + +The transition from the male to the female sex, through the intermediate +species of Macaroni, is easy, if not natural; and I shall indulge my own +particular feelings and partialities in entering upon that part of my +observations which relates more exclusively to the fairer and softer +portion of this aboriginal people. The infinite modifications of person, +mind, and manners, exhibited by the sex in the different grades of +society throughout the world, whether formed by the influences of +climate, government, or education, present a most interesting subject to +the speculative observer of human nature: and to one who, from early +life, both by profession and inclination, a traveller, has wandered +under every temperature of our eastern hemisphere, who has studied and +admired the sex under every variety of character, no wonder that the +contemplation of woman, as nature left her, inartificial, +unsophisticated, simple, barbarous, and unadorned, should seem fraught +with peculiar interest. Are there any who imagine that my loss of +eye-sight must necessarily deny me the enjoyment of such contemplations? +How much more do I pity the mental darkness which could give rise to +such an error, than they can pity my personal calamity! The feelings and +sympathies which pervade my breast, when in the presence of an amiable +and interesting female, are such as never could have been suggested by +_viewing_ a mere surface of coloured clay, however shaped into beauty, +or however animated by feeling and expression. The intelligence still +allowed me by a beneficent Providence, is amply sufficient to apprise me +of the existence of the more real--the diviner beauties of the soul; and +herein are enjoyments in which I am proud to indulge. A soft and sweet +voice, for instance, affords me a two-fold gratification;--it is a +vehicle of delight, as operating on the appropriate nerves, and, at the +same time, it suggests ideas of _visible_ beauty, which, I admit, may, +by force of imagination, be carried beyond _reality_. But, supposing I +am deceived, are my feelings the less intense?--and, in what consists my +existence, but in those feelings? Is it otherwise with those who _see_? +If it be, I envy them not. But are those who think themselves happier, +in this respect, than I am, sure, that the possession of a more +exquisite sense than any they enjoy, does not, sometimes at least, +compensate, or more than compensate, the curtailments to which the +ordinary senses, and particularly the one of eye-sight, is liable?--and +if they should think so, let them not, at least, deny me the resources I +possess. I shall not, however, persist further in a description of that +situation, those circumstances and those consolations, which the +all-feeling comprehension of the poet hath so justly caught in one of +its diviner moods of inspiration:-- + + And yet he neither drooped nor pined, + Nor had a melancholy mind; + For God took pity on the boy, + And was his friend--and gave him joy + Of which we nothing know. + +The personal appearance of the females of Fernando Po, is by no means +attractive, unless (de gustibus non est disputandum) a very ordinary +face, with much of the contour of the baboon, be deemed so. Add to this +the ornaments of scarification and tattooing, adopted by the sex to a +greater extent than by the men: and the imagination will at once be +sensible how much divinity attaches to Fernandian beauty. Like the men, +the women plaster the body all over with clay and palm-oil, and also in +a similar manner wear the hair long, and in curls or ringlets, well +stiffened with the above composition. The children of both sexes, or +those who have not obtained the age of puberty, have the hair cut short, +and are not permitted to use any artificial covering to the body. One +trait is, perhaps, peculiar to the women of this country, and may be +regarded by some as an indication of their good sense--that they have no +taste for baubles, or, at all events, do not appear to desire them more +than the men. With respect to articles of clothing, they are equally +exempt from such incumbrances as the other sex:-- + + Happy the climate where the beau + Wears the same suit for use and show, + And at a small expense your wife, + If once well pink'd, is clothed for life. + +Their lords and masters contrive to keep them in great subjection, and +accustom them to carry their burdens; they evince also a considerable +degree of jealousy, and shew evident marks of displeasure, whenever +strangers pay attentions to them. As, however, this is equally the case +whether the lady be young or old, it is not improbable that it may, in +some measure, arise from their considering it too great a condescension +on their parts to notice persons whom they deem so inferior. They rarely +brought them to the ship, and for some time did not allow them to appear +at market. If we are to credit our people, some of the young women are +great jilts, and very expert in wheedling them out of iron and other +property, under pretence of admitting them into their favour, and then +running away, with a laugh at their credulity. + +Mr. Jeffery witnessed the following ludicrous occurrence. He went one +day, for the purpose of barter, to a part of the shore eastward of Hay +river, where the surf was too great to allow his boat to remain on the +beach, and he was, therefore, compelled to lie off in deep water; this, +however, did not prevent the natives from carrying on their traffic. +Some young women, in particular, came off to the boat, bringing a +calabash of palm-wine in each hand, and treading the water so soon as +they were out of their depth. These they contrived to deliver safe, +without the wine becoming in the slightest degree impregnated with the +briny wave. One of these females, having been taken into the boat, began +to ingratiate herself into the favour of an honest tar, who, nothing +loath, seated her near him, with his arm around her neck. At this +juncture, the boat beginning to move, she made a sudden plunge over the +side, and nearly carried the astonished seaman into the water; in short, +he only escaped a good ducking by laying fast hold of the seat. The lady +now, in an instant, dived under the boat, and, reappearing at some +distance on the opposite side, swam, laughing, to the shore, evidently +much amused at Jack's surprise and disappointment. + +This was not the only instance Mr. Jeffery met with of the superior +talents of the fair sex, in swimming and diving. On one occasion, having +thrown into the sea a few small pieces of iron which had been rejected +in barter, a number of natives of both sexes dashed after them, with a +view to their recovery, when it was evident that the females were the +more active and successful. + +To elucidate more fully the character of the native women, I shall +conclude my account of them with the details of an occurrence which +possesses enough of the romantic to be capable of exciting, in the hands +of a better painter than I am, an interest in the bosoms of such of my +fair readers as may delight in tales of love and jealousy, with their +sequel of rage and revenge. A female, about twenty-five years of age, +who resided at a village in the neighbourhood of our settlement, had +been guilty of an offence, probably infidelity to her husband, which +subjected her to the dreadful penalty of having her hands cut off. +Hoping to avert this punishment, she adopted the resolution, accompanied +by her child, a fine and engaging boy of two years old, of entering our +lines, and throwing herself on our protection. Captain Harrison received +her favourably, and, for additional safety, sent her on board the Eden, +where she remained several days before any inquiry was made respecting +her. Although evidently of much firmness and decision of character, her +personal appearance was by no means attractive, the face being greatly +seamed with scars, and the abdomen tattooed all over. Captain Owen +directed her to be placed under the care of our European females, who, +either from envy or the force of habit, not approving the Eve-like dress +in which she came on board, immediately clothed her in blue cotton +garments. The poor child of nature, unused to such incumbrance, which +probably, in her opinion, served only to irritate the skin, and prevent +the contact of the refreshing atmosphere, felt any thing but easy, or +gratified with this addition to her circumstances, and availed herself, +at first, of every opportunity to lay it aside; but our unrelenting +countrywomen were equally zealous in persisting to replace it. At +length, she either became more accustomed to it, or aware of the +necessity of compliance with the wishes of her new friends; this effort +was, however, not unaccompanied by some ludicrous occurrences: for +instance, whenever her tormentors were out of sight, she lost no time in +tucking the grievance up round the waist, and dropping it below the +shoulders from above, thus leaving her limbs, and the general surface, +as free as nature intended them to be. On being taken on shore some days +after, and placed under the protection of the wife of a seaman who had +charge of the guns and ordnance stores, she had become sufficiently +reconciled to her new dress to wear it with less apparent inconvenience; +she was, indeed, once caught tripping, having one evening taken an +opportunity of throwing it off, when finding herself light and free, +like a bird on the wing, she ran into the jungle, where she frisked +about and enjoyed herself for some time; after which she returned to the +seaman's hut, and resumed her dress. + +When this woman had been with us about a week, her husband came to +Captain Harrison, bearing with him a present of two calabashes of +palm-wine, and a couple of fowls, intimating his wish to have the child +restored to him. With regard to his wife, he at this time shewed no +anxiety to recover her; he afterwards, however, returned with a +deputation of chiefs, and expressed his wish to have both of them +restored to him. This being represented to Captain Owen, in order to +convince them that she was under no restraint, he conducted her to the +boundary line, and, pointing first to her countrymen, and then to our +settlement, gave her to understand that she was at liberty to make her +choice. One of the chiefs now advanced, and taking her by the hand, +evinced his intention of leading her away, but Captain Owen would not +permit this without her free consent; and, that his presence might be no +restraint, left her to walk with her husband on the outside of the +boundary line, attended by a sailor armed with a musket. They had not +walked many paces, before five natives started from the bush and +attempted to carry her off by force, when she immediately ran towards +the sailor, and putting her hand on his musket, intimated her wish that +he would fire at them. He did so, and they all immediately scampered +away as fast as they could, leaving her to return with the sailor to his +hut. Foiled in this attempt, the husband soon after came again and +induced her to permit him to stay the night with her, and to take away +the child in the morning, under the promise of bringing it back next +day; a promise which he failed to perform, and which rendered the lady +so indignant, that, although he afterwards came to visit her himself, +bringing some fowls and palm-wine as a peace-offering, she persisted in +rejecting all compromise. This produced a violent quarrel, which ended +in their parting in high wrath, the husband threatening to return in the +night and inflict some dreadful vengeance upon her for it, but he did +not dare to carry his threats into execution. + +I regret that my circumstances do not permit me to investigate the +general aspect and natural history of this island, as it abounds with +many interesting subjects which would well repay the trouble of inquiry. +It is to be hoped that Government will ere long send out some +intelligent naturalist for the purpose. The general appearance of the +island is rocky and volcanic; on the north-eastern extremity, where our +settlement is situated, one mountain, named Clarence Peak, rises to the +elevation of 10,655 feet above the level of the sea, the easiest ascent +to which is from its eastern side, being only interrupted by a few +valleys of no great depth, while the western side exhibits a series of +chasms and precipices, the sides of which from the sea appear almost +perpendicular. The southern part of the island, although the least +populous, is very picturesquely mountainous, being broken into several +peaks, each supposed to be from one to three thousand feet in elevation, +with numerous streams and beautiful cataracts descending in various +parts and directions. In consequence of the hilly nature of the country +admitting of no lodgment of water, we have reason to believe that few +marshes exist throughout the island, a circumstance which must +contribute greatly to its salubrity. + +The soil of that part of the country with which we are best acquainted, +is of a red argillaceous nature, generally forming a stratum of nine or +ten feet in thickness, lying over one of sandstone, in which are +imbedded fragments of lava; the latter stratum, at Point William, +appears to decline to the east, at an angle of ten or twelve degrees. + +The whole of the island is most luxuriantly wooded, even to within three +or four hundred feet of its highest peaks, while some cleared spots, +particularly in the north-east part, which is the most populous and +cultivated, affords evidences of its great fertility. There is an +immense variety of timber, comprising some of the finest trees in the +world. I have already mentioned the Indian-rubber tree as indigenous +here. The island also produces a species of black pepper, and we have +reason to believe that cloves and nutmegs are to be met with. Yams are +cultivated in abundance; they are remarkably fine and large, and +constitute the principal food of the natives. Of this root they prepare +a food called foo-foo, made by beating a quantity of well boiled ones +together for a long time in a wooden mortar, which forms it into a +highly tenacious mass, somewhat similar to bird-lime, but this mode of +preparing them is not peculiar to Fernando Po, for it is commonly +practised among the African nations. There is also a variety of other +edible plants, particularly the eddoe, which is well known in the West +Indies, and whose leaves, when young, form a good substitute for +spinach. It is in general use when yams are out of season. A few +plantains have also been brought to us. Wild fruits, not generally +known, are found here; but there do not appear to be any oranges, +lemons, limes, pine-apples, bananas, sour-sop, or sugar-canes, which are +peculiar to such climates. + +The following is the mode adopted for procuring the sap of the +palm-tree, commonly known by the name of palm-wine: the lower branches +of the tree having been cut off near the trunk, the sap exudes +abundantly from the extremity of the divided part, and is received in +calabashes appended thereto, which are secured from the aggressions of +insects by enclosing the mouth of the vessel with the end of the branch, +by leaves, and secured with wooden pins. The natives are remarkably +expert in ascending the tree for the purpose of attaching and removing +the calabashes; to assist them, they make use of a hoop sufficiently +large to encircle the trunk, and allow, also, the body to move freely +within it. This the individual moves upwards or downwards whenever he +wants to change the position of his feet, according as he wishes to +ascend or descend. + +The juice, when procured, is, in the first instance, sweet, and not +unlike cyder, but rapidly undergoes a process of fermentation, by which, +in the course of two or three hours, it acquires a slightly vinous +flavour: in both those states I found it a very pleasant beverage. If +procured in the morning,[31] by the afternoon it becomes slightly acid, +and, on the following morning, perfectly sour: sufficient alcohol is, +however, formed to produce considerable exhilarating effect, when taken +in even moderate quantity; but, when drank inordinately, it stupefies +and intoxicates. The natives, notwithstanding they are fond of it, much +to their credit, rarely abuse this bountiful gift of nature, and, in +this respect, are well deserving of imitation by more civilized people. + +The preparation of the palm-oil is conducted an follows:--A circular and +slightly concave hole, about a yard in diameter and a foot deep, is made +in the ground and paved with small stones. In this hole the palm-nuts +are beaten into a pulp, and the oil afterwards extracted. It is then +preserved and brought to market in native boxes, each containing from a +quart to a gallon. + +The island abounds with monkeys, which are eaten by the natives, many +are of considerable size, some having been killed above 50 lb. weight. +Several species have been noticed, particularly one with long, shaggy, +jet-black hair; another with short silver-grey hair; and a third auburn, +inclining to gold, with the hair of an intermediate length; so that it +might be said we have gold and silver monkeys. The Kroomen, who are very +partial to their flesh, hunt them successfully with sticks and stones. +If any one makes them a present of a monkey, after feasting on the +carcase, they thankfully return the skin, well dried. + +The only domestic animal on the island is a dog of a peculiar cur +species, very diminutive, and of a red and white colour; these we have +reason to believe the natives eat, and they use the under jaw for a +clapper to their rattles. + +There is a great variety of fish; and also two species of turtle: viz. +the green, and hawksbill; the former good for eating, and the latter +only desirable for its shell. + +It is now time that I revert to the proceedings which had taken place at +the settlement during my absence. The increased confidence of the +natives, and even violent proceedings, subsequently to our purchase of +land and establishment of a market, have already been noticed: the +numbers, indeed, which crowded within our boundary line, were immense; +and their conduct in wandering about the settlement, with a view of +inducing our people to make purchases, contrary to regulation, together +with the irregularities arising from the temptation to sell their tools, +to procure the means of privately feasting and tippling among the +bushes, became so obnoxious, that Captain Owen determined to remove the +market beyond the boundary line. He, therefore, directed the stakes to +be removed, and took measures for preventing any number of natives from +entering, in future, within the works, giving them to understand that no +barter could be made, excepting at the place appointed for that purpose. +The spot selected for the new market, was a point to the eastward beyond +Hay River. Although much pains were taken to convince the chiefs of the +advantages of this arrangement, it did not appear to give them +satisfaction; as, for several days, few natives were to be seen on +shore, and no canoes came off to the ship. It is probable that the +chiefs were holding a conference respecting the affair, a mode of +proceeding which they appear to adopt when any thing of moment occurs. + +Two days afterwards Capt. Owen, accompanied by Capt. Harrison and Mr. +Jeffery, went to examine the shore to the eastward of Hay River, and +observing two canoes making towards a small cove, followed them, until +they landed at a village near the beach, the inhabitants of which +received him with every demonstration of friendly feeling, pawing the +gentlemen of the party with their clayey hands, and pressing upon them +so close, that they were also rubbing their bodies against their +clothes. At the same time, that they thus expressed their welcome, they +did not forget to solicit for iron, knives, and other presents. The +chief occupation of the people of this village was fishing; and as, +contrary to all other assemblages of the natives we had yet witnessed, +the larger proportion present consisted of women, it is probable that +the men were, at the time, engaged in that employment. Captain Owen +purchased a few articles from them, and expressed his intention of +establishing a market at the place; after which, he returned to his +boat, both parties appearing satisfied with each other. + +Our market was for some days afterwards carried on at the above village +with reciprocal satisfaction, the supply of the several articles being +abundant. It was soon, however, evident, that the tribes who were +excluded by this arrangement, were by no means contented: and, as +Captain Owen was anxious to do justice to the whole, by giving each a +fair opportunity of barter, and as the immediate neighbourhood of the +settlement was more convenient for the greatest assemblage of persons +from the different tribes, he ordered, after first having a clear +understanding with the chiefs, a new market-place to be fenced in, near +the boundary line, which, from its situation and circumstances, ought to +be regarded as neutral ground. This establishment of a neutral ground, +was a measure of great importance and advantage, as we had now +discovered that the natives are not only divided into distinct tribes, +but that each tribe possesses a distinct portion of territory, and is +extremely jealous of admitting others within its boundaries. The new +market having been completed to-day, and a pole erected for the purpose +of hoisting a flag, during the appointed hours of barter, it was opened +about noon, with some ceremony, in consequence of hoisting, for the +first time on this island, an Union-jack, under the hearty cheers of a +large assembly, composed, perhaps, of as great a variety of people as +ever before witnessed the first display of the British flag in a foreign +land; comprising, besides our own countrymen and the inhabitants of the +island, natives of various parts of Africa. The ceremony concluded by +drinking palm-wine. + +_Monday, Nov. 26_.--A circumstance unfortunately occurred to-day to +interrupt the good understanding so lately established. One of our black +labourers, who was occupied by himself in cutting wood within our lines, +had drunk some palm-wine, which had been offered to him, without his +having the means of paying for it; the natives, in consequence, forcibly +took from him the bill-hook he was using. The theft having been +communicated to Capt. Harrison, he assembled the chiefs who were at the +market, and explained the affair, when two of them, Chameleon and +Cut-throat, formed their respective followers into lines, each being +armed with his equipment of spears; a parley now took place between the +chiefs, who addressed their respective parties, with a view, no doubt, +of finding out the thieves. A man, having the appearance of a priest, +next harangued the whole body: each party in succession sang a war-song, +the chiefs going on one, and the men on both knees. Each party now +marched three times round a space which described a circle; after which, +those under Chameleon suddenly started off at full speed, and were +immediately followed by Cut-throat and his party, to the boundary of Hay +River. The stragglers of the former, in their flight, disencumbered +themselves of their yams, and calabashes of palm-wine, which the others, +on coming up, amused themselves with breaking to pieces. Thus ended this +curious specimen of war-like movements, which might appropriately be +called the Battle of the Calabashes; and is sufficient to prove that a +system of organization exists among the people, and confirms our former +opinions on this subject: for, on our first landing at Baracouta, we +perceived they had guards regularly stationed to watch and follow our +movements. This system, I have some reason to believe, extends itself +into the heart of the country, for, during my visit in the interior, I +was sensible the people were running about at all hours of the night, +ready for action. This may probably be the result of necessity, as the +different tribes, if we are to judge from the numerous large scars in +various parts of the body, are evidently engaged in frequent warfare +with each other. + +_Tuesday, 27_.--Mr. Jeffery held a market to-day, at the village near +the beach; but an old chief, who had been named Bottle-nose, was +apparently, out of humour, probably in consequence of the affair at the +border-market the day before. + +_Wednesday, 28_.--At the conclusion of the market, which was held at the +Bottle-nose village to-day, a party of chiefs came hallooing after Mr. +Jeffery, at the moment of his leaving the shore, but he did not offer to +return. They then followed along the beach in the direction of his boat, +until they nearly reached Hay River. He now perceived they held +something in their hands, which they gave him to understand, by signs, +was intended for him. This induced him to pull for the shore again, when +he found they had brought back the unfortunate bill-hook that had been +carried away on the preceding Monday: the men who had stolen it, +however, were not forthcoming. Mr. Jeffery conducted them to Clarence, +where an interview took place between Captains Owen and Harrison, and +some of the chiefs, at which the former directed a couple of iron hoops +to be given as a reward for the recovery of the bill-hook. After this, +several chiefs came on board, bringing with them a sheep as a +peace-offering, which the Captain immediately ordered to be killed for +their own entertainment. In this operation, they assisted very +effectually; for one of them took his knife, and after skinning the head +and neck, the animal being yet alive, cut its throat and extracted the +windpipe, which was given to our friend Cut-throat, who first slapped it +for some time about his shoulders, and afterwards, having merely warmed +it on the fire, devoured it voraciously. The skin being removed, others +of the natives tore off with their teeth, and ate the portions of raw +flesh which remained attached to it; while some cut off portions from +the animal, and disposed of them in the same manner. The remainder of +the body was partially dressed on the coals, and dispatched by the party +generally. Notwithstanding this demonstration of their high relish for +raw meat, it is remarkable that two of the chiefs, Cut-throat and +Good-tempered Jack, who were honoured with a second dinner at Captain +Owen's table, when presented with meat supposed to be done to their +taste, shewed a repugnance to it, and wished it to be put on the fire +again. Cut-throat had shewn so much disinterested zeal in our favour, on +various occasions, and particularly in the affair of the bill-hook, that +Captain Owen took the opportunity of rewarding him for it, by presenting +him with some iron, and a pair of shoes. It is singular, that he is the +only native we have, as yet, been conversant with, who never begged for +any thing. + +_Thursday, 29_.--Our little establishment (considering the few hands, +and the many irons we have in the fire,) is making a rapid progress. The +greatest activity pervades every department. The whole of our people, +whether ashore or afloat, live uncommonly well, having plenty of yams +and palm-wine served out to them daily, with fowls and fish +occasionally, which are extra provisions, supplied gratuitously; the +former being purchased from the natives with iron hoop, the latter taken +by our fishermen. We have also caught a few hawksbill, and green turtle, +and occasionally dig turtles' eggs from the sand on the beach. + +_Saturday, Dec. 1_.--Our establishment has hitherto been remarkably +healthy; the sickness which has occurred, being almost entirely the +result of accidental wounds, or the bites of musquitos and sand-flies; +the latter, being irritated by rubbing, have produced, in some +instances, very serious sores, which have baffled the greatest attention +of our surgeons: one feature in these ulcers is, that frequent changes +of applications are required, no individual remedy appearing to agree, +at farthest, for more than five days; generally, but three or four; nor +has any kindly disposition to heal shewn itself, until a degree of +salivation has been produced, by giving the patient a grain of calomel, +night and morning. Both my companions in the country are unfortunately +on the sick list,--Elwood, with remittent fever, with which he was +seized immediately after his return; the other, Debenham, in consequence +of getting his legs bitten by insects. I have myself, thank God, escaped +without illness or injury of any kind. + +_Sunday, 2_.--Two chiefs, Cut-throat and Bottle-nose, with some other +natives of consequence, dined with Captain Owen to-day, who was +entertaining a party of the officers and other gentlemen attached to the +establishment. The natives always appear particularly gratified in being +allowed to dine on board, and Captain Owen, as a matter of policy, in +tending to promote a friendly intercourse, frequently indulges them in +this way; it is offering, however, no trifling sacrifice at the shrines +of the gods of friendship and cleanliness, to sit down with them, for +their bodies not unfrequently emitted a most offensive odour, +particularly when much heated by exertion, and the influence of a +tropical climate. Imagine the action of these upon a mixture of +perspiration, rancid palm-oil, clay and dust, the whole producing an +effluvium little inferior to that which Sir John Falstaff describes to +have been generated in his ducking-basket, 'The rankest compound of +villanous smells that ever offended nostrils.' Besides, as our guests +were all dressed in buff, it was necessary to clean, after them, the +chairs and other places on which they might happen to sit. Cut-throat, +and one of his tribe, slept on board, on a sail placed between two guns. + +_Monday, 3_.--After breakfast, our visitors took their leave, +accompanied by Mr. Jeffery, who, in consequence of a previous +arrangement, was going to spend a couple of days with them, at a village +about eight miles in the country, and from which he returned at the +expiration of the appointed time, well pleased with the attention and +hospitality that had been shewn him. A remuneration of bar-iron was the +price of these civilities. + +Our fishing party have taken in their seine to-day, two flying-fish of +the gurnet species, and a hawksbill turtle. A party of natives from King +Cove, headed by a chief named Toby Limp, came on board with a native +woman, who was far advanced in that happy teeming state which is +peculiar to females in all parts of the world. This was, in fact, one of +the few instances of any female coming on board: for, although old +Bottle-nose had once brought two alongside the ship, he kept them +concealed at the bottom of his canoe: we have some reason, however, to +believe that his original intention was to have honoured us with a full +introduction, but that he waived it in consequence of finding the chief +of another tribe in close conference with Captain Owen. With respect to +Mr. Toby Limp's lady, the general opinion, drawn from various signs and +appearances, was, that she was intended as a sort of present, or +peace-offering, to the Captain; and what amused us exceedingly, was the +peculiar mode which Toby adopted of recommending her more fully to his +good opinion, by frequently passing his hand over her abdomen, while, +regarding Captain Owen with a most animated countenance, he seemed to +express something like the following: 'Look here! surely this is worthy +of your attention.' But, however powerful the native charms of this lady +might have been, and in spite of the above felicitous mode of 'showing +her off,' the speculation proved totally ineffectual. Another +circumstance concurred in diminishing the effect of any impression that +might have been made, namely, that three or four clay-coloured chiefs +appeared to be co-partners with Mr. Toby in the affections of the lady. +The whole party passed the night together on board, between two guns. So +much for the delicacy of sentiment among savages. + +The following is a specimen of the delicacy of this people in another +respect. On the occasion of Captain Owen visiting the brother of the +King of Baracouta, a calabash of palm-wine was produced, which, in +consequence of some imperfection in the vessel, leaked out its contents; +in order to cure this defect, the hospitable chief took off his hat, +and, scraping with his thumb-nail a portion of the clay and grease from +his head, effectually checked further leakage, with this _veritable_ +Fernando Po cement. + +_Tuesday, 4_.--An increase in the number of the sick has been reported +to-day, several of the men on board, and of the mechanics and labourers +on shore being affected with ulcers of the hospital gangrene kind. One +seaman of the Eden, has had his leg amputated above the knee, in +consequence of the nature of the ulceration. Having gone on shore this +morning, I had the pleasure of finding the works in rapid progress; the +floor plates were being laid in one of the frame houses; the roof of a +large saw-pit was also being put on; while a great part of the labourers +were occupied in bringing up some frames of houses which had lately been +landed from the transport. We were treated to-day with a monkey for +dinner, cooked in the manner of an Irish stew, with yams as a substitute +for potatoes: I must admit that I found it by no means a disagreeable +food, which is not to be wondered at from its being a very clean animal, +living on vegetable substances. Our fishermen have taken one green, and +one hawksbill turtle; also a skate, weighing ninety pounds; and two +buckets full of other fish of various descriptions, principally mullet. + +Lieutenant Vidal brought a native on board, charged with the following +crimes: namely, stealing a dinner knife from on board the steam-vessel; +and an attempt, in conjunction with others, to plunder our forge, on +Adelaide Island. Lieutenant Vidal, fortunately passing in that +direction, observed a canoe lying on the beach. This he secured. The men +belonging to it, however, contrived to make their escape in another +canoe, but left behind them two of their hats. The prisoner had the +audacity to venture on board the steam-vessel, in hopes of recovering +the lost canoe; he was immediately attempted to be seized, but he +contrived, in consequence of his greasy skin, to give our men the slip, +and effect his escape. Yet he was not deterred from making a second +attempt, having, as he imagined, sufficiently disguised himself with a +different hat and head-dress; but he was immediately recognised, and, +having been enticed into the cabin, effectually secured. Captain Owen +ordered him to be put into irons, with the intention of keeping him +under confinement for a week, and then dismissing him with some slight +punishment. + +_Wednesday, 5_.--A brig was observed in the offing which had the +appearance of a slaver. The steam-vessel was immediately ordered in +chase, and returned in the evening, reporting her to be an English brig, +from Liverpool, bound for the Cameroons. + +_Thursday, 6_.--Our tender, the Horatio, sailed this week for Sierra +Leone. Among other supernumeraries sent in her, were a serjeant and two +privates of the Royal African Corps. The conduct of these men was so +notoriously bad, that Captain Owen apprehended their example would +corrupt the black soldiers with whom they were associated. I cannot +avoid again calling in question the policy of our Government in sending +out condemned soldiers to the Colonial African Corps; for nothing tends +more to degrade the general character of our country, in the opinion of +the native Africans, who are too apt to form their estimate of our +morality, from these specimens of their masters. + +_Friday, 7_.--The unloading of the transport which came with us from +England was completed to-day. Among other stores, she brought out the +frames of a block-house; six large and ten small dwelling-houses; six +long eighteen pounders, and two long nines. + +_Saturday, 8_.--Lieutenant Caldwell, of the Royal Marines, died this +morning, and was buried at four in the afternoon. He had never been in +health since our departure from England, or even been on shore, +excepting for an hour or two at Sierra Leone. He was to have returned by +the first opportunity to England, and, with that view, had, previously +to his death, been removed from the Eden to the steam-vessel. + +_Monday, 10_.--Our fishing party took to-day no less than ten turtle in +their seine. The native prisoner having now been confined six days out +of the seven awarded him. Captain Owen thought it better to inflict his +intended punishment of thirty-nine lashes to-day, in order that his +immediate rage might have time to subside, before being set at liberty +on the morrow. It was accordingly carried into effect; and, although he +made a most lusty bellowing on the occasion, the whip-cord appeared to +make very little impression on his thick skin. I believe he deemed +himself peculiarly fortunate in coming off so well, as, judging from his +signs, he expected, at least, to have had his throat cut. During his +confinement, he roared and blubbered frequently, particularly whenever +he was sensible of any canoe approaching the ship. His countrymen, +however, appeared to care little about him; on the contrary, they +frequently mimicked his noises, as if in ridicule. His father, indeed, +and one or two other relatives, took some interest in his fate, and +offered ransom for him. + +_Tuesday, Dec. 11_.--Captain Owen, at an early hour, went on board the +steam-vessel to commence his intended survey of the island, and did me +the honour of inviting me to accompany him. At seven o'clock we left +Maidstone Bay, and proceeded towards a place to the eastward of Point +William, where Captain Owen intended to land his native prisoner, and +from whence he was expecting to receive on board Cut-throat, +Bottle-nose, and another chief, known by the name of Good-tempered Jack. +The two latter only kept their promise, but, on coming on board, they +were so impressed with fear and astonishment, particularly when the +paddles began to move, that their hearts failed them, and they retreated +to the boat with all possible celerity. The prisoner was allowed to +accompany them; but no sooner did the boat approach the shore, than, +doubting the reality of his freedom, until entirely out of our reach, he +jumped overboard, and, alternately swimming and diving, as if to elude +pursuit, he, at length, reached the shore. About a week afterwards, he +ventured to make his appearance on the beach, accompanied by +Bottle-nose, but was careful not to approach our party, until the +officer on duty threw out a signal of encouragement, when he came +forward, exchanged his palm-wine for iron hoop, and afterwards joined in +the laugh with those around him. + +Pursuing our voyage, about noon, a party of natives were observed on the +beach, and Capt. Owen determined on paying them a visit, ordering a boat +to be lowered for the purpose. Unfortunately, however, it being +necessary, while in the act of lowering, to make a few retrograde +strokes of the paddle, the boat was drawn into the vortex on the right +hand, and nearly cut in two. By this accident, one of the seamen who +were in it, was thrown within the paddle, but, miraculously, taken out +unhurt; another made his escape on board the vessel; while two more were +set adrift in the sea; they were, however, soon picked up by a second +boat, which was instantly lowered, and which also succeeded in +recovering the wreck of the first. On approaching the shore, the surf +was found to be so strong, that Captain Owen was obliged to communicate +with the natives from the boat. + +A few yams were purchased for some pieces of iron-hoop, which the +natives were so eager to become possessed of, that, daring the exchange, +they trembled exceedingly from the intensity of their desire. A piece +was intentionally thrown into the sea, with the view of giving them a +scramble: they all immediately darted with the utmost eagerness into the +water, and exerted themselves most strenuously, until one had the luck +to find it; when the remainder left him in quiet possession, without +evincing the slightest disposition to deprive him of his treasure. + +A small island lay off the shore of this place, which Capt. Owen did not +consider of sufficient importance to induce him to give it a name. We +now continued our survey along the south-eastern side of the island, +advancing at the rate of six or seven miles an hour, until half-past +five in the evening, when we arrived a-breast of the south-eastern point +(Cape Barrow): we then took our bearings, let the steam down, and stood +off the land, under easy sail, for the night. + +_Wednesday, Dec. 12_.--An hour after midnight we tacked, and stood +towards the land; at daylight, got the steam on, and furled the sails, +and at eight in the morning we were off the same point at which our +survey of the previous evening had concluded, the current having, during +the night, carried us to the south-west, at the rate of about a mile and +a half per hour. The part of the island we were now coasting along, was +possessed of a very considerable degree of sublimity, the shore being +bold and rocky, with various picturesque cataracts descending from the +mountains; and the whole face of the country having a wild appearance. +During the forenoon, we had two high peaks in view, one of which Captain +Owen named after Dr. Burn, the surgeon of the Eden, who first observed +it. About half-past ten, we passed a snug little cove, where the natives +were occupied in building canoes, and where we observed a considerable +quantity of wood piled up, intended for making paddles. Soon afterwards, +we passed the entrance of a river, which, out of compliment to myself, +Captain Owen named Holman River. A remarkably large stone lay on the +beach near its mouth. At noon, we were off a bluff cape, which received +the name of Cape Eden. At this time our previously fine weather +disappeared, and we had, throughout the remainder of the day, a very +hazy atmosphere, with occasional rain. + +About one o'clock, a rakish-looking schooner made her appearance, which, +from her manoeuvres, such as frequently altering her course, as if she +wished to avoid us, we suspected to be a slave-vessel; we, therefore, +made full sail in chase, and at three o'clock, had approached near +enough to fire a gun at her, when she immediately hoisted English +colours, brought to, and proved to be the African, Captain John Smith, +twenty-five days from Sierra Leone, and seven from Cape Coast Castle, +laden with provisions for the colony, and having on board +Hospital-Assistant Cowen, of the Medical Staff, who had volunteered to +join the establishment. Captain Owen, having received his letters, +ordered her to proceed to Maidstone Bay, while we stood in for George's +Bay, on the western side of the island, where we came to anchor soon +after four o'clock. + +_Thursday, Dec. 13_.--Soon after breakfast, Dr. Burn landed with three +men, and proceeded to a native village, about three miles from the +beach, where he was kindly received by an elderly chief, who appeared +well acquainted with our countrymen. He could pronounce 'King George,' +and a few other English words, and wore as an ornament, suspended from +his neck, a brass plate, which had belonged to the cap of a soldier of +the Royal African Corps; he had also another brass plate with G.R. upon +it. This chief, with his son, accompanied Dr. Burn on board, and was +entertained by Captain Owen with fish, yams, and palm-wine; at length, +he began to express much anxiety to be gone, and was sent on shore. +During the morning, Captain Owen and Lieutenant Badgeley occupied +themselves with surveying the bay: after this, we went ashore, when many +of the natives assembled round us, and behaved themselves very civilly, +although they were, as usual, importunate for iron; offering in exchange +yams, palm-wine, fowls, &c. &c. Only one canoe came off to us at this +place, containing twelve men, who had a few yams with them, which they +appeared very indifferent about parting with; at least, they demanded +very exorbitant prices, as a piece of iron for a single yam, for which, +at Maidstone Bay, we could have purchased eight or ten. We caught here a +large dog-fish, a species of ground shark. + +_Friday, Dec. 14_.--At day-break we were again under weigh, and stood +out of George's Bay, making a little to the southward of it, for the +purpose of resuming our survey at the point where we left off on the +preceding day, in order to give chase to the schooner; we then returned +into the bay, running close along, and surveying its shores, leaving it +at its northern extremity, and passing round Goat Island; we then stood +for Maidstone Bay, where we anchored at one in the afternoon, having +surveyed the intermediate coast, as well us the whole extent of the bay, +from Cape Bullen to Point William, from whence we had commenced the +survey. Thus we completed the circumnavigation of the island. + +I shall conclude my account of this short voyage, by giving a few of the +geographical and meteorological observations, which have been made since +our arrival, with every due attention to accuracy. + +Names of Places. | N. lat. | E. lon. +----------------------------------------|---------------|-------------- +Cape Bullen | 3 deg. 47' 3" | 8 deg. 39' 4" +Point William, or Clarence Town | 3 45 8 | 8 45 0 +Cape Horatio | 3 46 25 | 8 54 4 +Cape Barrow | 3 11 5 | 8 40 4 +Point Charles (S.W. of St. George's Bay)| 3 26 9 | 8 27 7 +Goat Island (N.E. of St. George's Bay) | 3 26 9 | 8 32 8 +Cape Badgeley, or West Point | 3 19 0 | 8 24 7 +Cape Vidal, or East Point | 3 39 3 | 8 56 3 +Peak of Clarence Mountain | 3 34 6 | 8 41 5 +Peak of the Cameroon Mountain, | 4 13 5 | 9 9 5 + on the Mainland of Africa | | +----------------------------------------|---------------|-------------- + +The Cameroon Mountain bears, from Clarence Peak, N. 32 deg. 30 min. E. +at a distance of 48 miles; and from Clarence Town, N. 27 deg. E., the +distance being 31-1/2 miles; while the nearest point from the mainland +is only about 20 miles. From the proximity of this island to the +equinoctial, there is only 14 minutes difference between the longest and +shortest day; and the temperature is so equable, that the thermometer, +throughout the year, never varies more than 10 degrees in the 24 hours. +The spring-tides have a rise and fall between seven and eight feet; and +it is high water all round the island, at the full and change of the +moon, at half after four o'clock. During our absence, the first house +erected in the settlement, had been completed; and Mr. Glover, who was +to inhabit it, had invited his friends to the house-warming on the day +of our return. This house consisted of only one floor, twenty feet +square, and built on piles, with a store-room beneath, the sides of +which are constituted by the piles. Ten other houses, of similar form +and dimensions, are in progress of construction, besides six larger +ones, of forty feet square, and the block-house, which measures fifty by +thirty; the whole consisting of single floors, with store-rooms +underneath. + +_Saturday, Dec. 15_.--The system of labour among the workmen is, to +commence at six in the morning, and leave off at eleven for dinner, +recommencing at one, and concluding at half-past five; after which, +during the remainder of the day, they are allowed to amuse themselves. +The labourers and mechanics have been formed into a militia corps, under +the command of Capt. Harrison, with the rank of Major, and are +occasionally taught to march _en militaire_, and exercised with the +pike, which is, at present, their only weapon; the Eden, having but +twenty muskets to spare, which have been distributed among the +artificers who came out with us from England. + +This afternoon, our transport, the Diadem, sailed for Cape Coast Castle. +In the evening, the bugles at Clarence sounded an alarm, in consequence +of the flames of some burning brush-wood accidentally communicating with +one of the huts. It was fortunately soon extinguished, without any +serious injury having been sustained. + +_Monday, Dec. 17_.--The Diadem, which sailed on Saturday, was detained +during the whole of yesterday within sight of the island; but, about +noon to-day, a fresh wind springing up from the eastward, she was soon +out of sight. A few days since, our gardener, while digging in Paradise, +turned up a Spanish copper-coin of Charles III., dated 1774, probably a +relic of some ship which had touched here for water. + +_Tuesday, Dec. 18_.--Anderson, a black soldier of the Royal African +Corps, whom I have previously mentioned as an interpreter on our arrival +here, was to-day found sleeping on his post, and committed to the +guard-house, from whence he contrived to escape into the woods, with a +view of seeking protection from the natives. Another black soldier was +punished this morning for having quitted his post, and lost his musket, +a few days since, in the following manner. A party of Kroomen being +employed in cutting down wood, some of the natives contrived to steal an +axe and bill-hook. The theft, however, was immediately detected, and a +scuffle ensued, during which this soldier, who was a sentinel near the +spot, threw down his musket, and ran away. The musket was taken +possession of by a native, but subsequently recovered by a Krooman, not, +however, without his first receiving a severe cut on his hand by the +knife of the native. After throwing a few spears, one of which slightly +wounded the head Krooman, the natives got clear off with the bill-hook +and axe. A spear was also thrown at Mr. Davis, the master's assistant, +who was accidentally passing at the time, and whom one of the natives +had even the audacity to attempt to make prisoner; a fate which he only +escaped, from his shirt giving way under the grasp. + +When this affair was made known to Captain Harrison, he immediately +proceeded to the market-place, and finding some chiefs there, +communicated to them what had happened. Cut-throat, who was present, +instantly arose, and, after making a speech to his countrymen, formed +them into line, each being armed with the usual number of spears. After +singing a war-song, and making three circular tours, or evolutions, the +whole started off in quest of the thieves, and, in less than an hour, +returned with the axe and bill-hook. Some few days after this event, one +of the natives, who had taken an active part in it, had the effrontery +to enter our lines for the purpose of selling his palm-wine, when he was +immediately secured by the Kroomen, and conducted a prisoner to Captain +Harrison, who sent him on board the Eden, where he was put into irons; +however, this man had committed a previous offence, namely, having +struck Mr. Jeffery two severe blows with a stick, about a month since, +which compelled him to give up the pursuit of a fellow, who had been +endeavouring to impose two calabashes of water upon him, instead of +palm-wine. + +During the last week, we have had little communication with the natives, +and our supplies of palm-wine, &c., have consequently run short. This +circumstance, we are informed, is attributable to their being occupied +in the yam-plantations. I am inclined to infer, that, if the necessity +really exists for thus employing the whole of the inhabitants in the +culture of this root, the population of the island is not so great as we +have been led to consider it. + +_Wednesday, 19_.--At half-past one this morning, a loud splash was heard +in the water, succeeded by the cry of, 'A man overboard.' A boat was +immediately sent, and from the phosphorescence of the water, some one +was discovered swimming towards the shore. On approaching him, he turned +round in the direction of the Eden; and, when within twenty yards of the +ship, he all at once disappeared, and was not seen afterwards. On +inquiry, it was found that the native prisoner who had been confined in +irons on the forecastle, for his participation in the affray I have so +lately described, had contrived to effect his escape. To accomplish +this, he had put his hand down the scuttle over the coppers, and taken +from thence the iron that turns the handles of the dischargers. With the +point of this he had contrived to break off one of the sides of the +padlock which secured his fetters, and thus setting himself at liberty, +he crossed the deck to the gangway, opposite to where the sentry was +placed, when he mounted the railings, and immediately plunged into the +sea. It is singular, with respect to this prisoner, that his countrymen +shewed very little solicitude about him: and we therefore had reason to +think that he was no favourite with them. When they did inquire after +him, it was to know whether we had not cut his throat. The King of +Baracouta's brother once asked Captain Owen what he intended to do with +him; and, on being informed that he meant to keep him for a time in +irons, and then, after a gentle flagellation, dismiss him, expressed his +astonishment at this lenity, and made signs that we ought to cut his +throat. It is true we sometimes had, as might be expected, very +different versions of the signs of these natives; but, in the present +instance, they could not well be misunderstood. + +Captain Owen, attended by a small party of marines, went on shore at an +early hour, to hold a Court of Inquiry on twelve African soldiers, for +refusing to attend the punishment of their comrade (an Ashantee) on the +preceding day. They were found guilty, and sentenced to receive three +hundred lashes each. After a part of this punishment had been inflicted, +they were sent on board the Eden. + +_Thursday, 20_.--Anderson, the African soldier, who escaped from +confinement on Tuesday, was met in the woods this morning by a serjeant +of his company, to whom he immediately surrendered himself, and who +placed him under charge of another soldier. Apprehensive, however, of +the consequences of his double offence, he shortly after contrived to +give his guard the slip, and again effected his escape. The above +mentioned serjeant also detected a labourer in the act of lowering a +piece of iron from a cliff, with the intention of selling it to the +natives, whose canoes were lying off the beach. Having first secured the +offender, he then fired his musket at one of the canoes, without +injuring, or intending to injure, the men whom it contained, and the aim +was so unerring, that the ball penetrated through the bottom of the +canoe, in such a manner that it immediately began to fill with water; +this terrified the natives so much, that they all leaped overboard, and +swimming to another canoe, left their own, with her cargo of sheep, +fowls, &c. to its fate. This might truly be termed a good hit. + +In the afternoon I went on shore at Adelaide Point, where, it is said, +the Spaniards had a battery. Whether this be true or not, the spot is +well adapted for one; it is now entirely covered over with remarkably +thick brushwood, which Captain Owen has ordered to be cleared off, with +the intention of forming a road, through the woods, to Longfield. +Hospital-Assistant Cowen found to-day a silver Spanish coin, in +Paradise, near the same spot where the copper one before mentioned was +discovered, and which bears the same date. + +_Friday, 21_.--This morning, Matthew Elwood died, after an illness of 25 +days. His complaint was a remittent fever, taken on our short journey +into the interior. On the third day after our return, he took to his +bed, from which he never rose again, excepting on the day previous to +his death, when, under a state of mental aberration, he secretly took +off his shirt, and threw himself from out of the port-hole near his bed +into the sea; he was soon taken up, but his delirium continued until he +expired. At five this afternoon he was buried in Paradise. My other +companion, John Debenham, has also been ill ever since our return, with +an ulcerated leg, occasioned by the bites of insects, and which, at +present, shews little disposition to heal. + +_Saturday, 22_.--A sheep was killed this morning, one of whose hind +quarters weighed four pounds and two ounces, and which, although not +fat, was the largest native sheep we have yet met with. About a +fortnight since five were slaughtered, which altogether weighed but +sixty pounds, and, consequently, averaged only twelve pounds each. + +_Sunday, 23_.--During the last week we have experienced much thunder and +lightning. Our fishermen attribute their want of success to this cause; +for the fishery has been unusually unproductive. Early this morning it +began to rain, and for an hour continued to do so more heavily than any +of us had before witnessed, after which; a smaller rain continued until +eleven o'clock, when it cleared off, and the remainder of the day was +fine. In the evening, a number of native fishing boats assembled between +Point William, and the Eden, and as their proceedings on the occasion +particularly attracted our attention, I shall take this opportunity of +describing the peculiar method of fishing which they make use of. + +A number of canoes, containing from three to twelve men, put out to sea, +to look for a shoal of fish; when discovered, they surround it on all +sides, shouting and splashing the water with their paddles in every +direction, endeavouring to drive it towards a centre. This done, they +commence fishing, using for the bait a small fish with which they are +previously provided, and they occasionally throw a few of these into the +midst of the shoal. The fish appear to take this bait very eagerly; but, +as the hooks which the natives use, are made of bone or nails, and +without barbs,[32] not more than half the number struck in the first +instance, are eventually secured. Two men paddle the canoe in the +direction of the shoal, while the remainder are occupied in fishing. +Captain Owen went in his boat, and pulled towards the party; we were +much interested with their operations and success. At his invitation, +after the fishing had concluded, one of the canoes brought us some very +fine ones, a species of bream, weighing from two to three pounds each. +This was the first time I ever knew fish caught, in deep water at sea, +with a rod and line. + +_Monday, Dec. 24_.--In the course of the day, a party of natives brought +on board three black men, inhabitants of the Island of St. Thomas, who, +six months before, had taken refuge in Fernando Po, under the following +circumstances:--During the time they were engaged in fishing, a strong +wind arose, which drove them out to sea. Unable to contend against the +power of the gale, they deemed it prudent to keep the canoe before it, +and even assist with their paddles, in hopes of sooner falling in with +land, and thus escape starvation. In this manner they continued drifting +for eight days without fresh water, or any kind of provisions, excepting +the few fish they had caught before the gale arose, the greater part of +which were thrown overboard, in consequence of their getting into a +state of excessive putridity. At length they came in sight of Fernando +Po. Some of the natives came off to them in their canoes, and took them +ashore on the eastern part of the island. Here they had been compelled +to remain, devoid of all hopes of returning, until they saw our +steam-vessel making its late circumnavigation of the island. This opened +to them a new and cheering prospect; and they determined to attempt +reaching our settlement overland, by travelling at night, and secreting +themselves during the day, in order that the natives might not interrupt +their escape. Previously to the discovery of our steam-vessel, they had +frequently heard the reports of our morning and evening gun: this had +led them to the belief, that some Europeans were resident on the island, +and now afforded them the proper line of direction for their march. +After travelling for three nights, and at the time of their approaching +our settlement, they were discovered by the natives, who, in the first +instance, attempted to force them back to their former residence. The +poor creatures, however, made so much noise and resistance, that, +apprehending the fact would transpire and excite our displeasure, it was +at length determined to conduct them to us. One of them was a Fantee, +and had resided at the Dutch settlement of Elmina, where a black man of +our party, who was no less a personage than a son of the King of Cape +Coast, although now discharging the humble office of gun-room steward of +the Eden, had frequently seen him. + +At the time these men arrived on board, several natives were with us, +and among the rest, our friend Cut-throat. No sooner did the Fantee fix +his eyes upon him, than, to the astonishment of all present, they began +to flash with indignation, while the countenance of Cut-throat assumed +proportionably the expression of sheepishness. The cause of this proved +to be, that, when they first landed on the island, our old friend had +stolen a shirt from him; in other respects, however, I believe they had +little reason to complain of the treatment they experienced: for they +had not been compelled to work, excepting occasionally assisting in +fishing, and they had been permitted to reside by themselves; it is +true, on the other hand, that they had little hospitality to be grateful +for, having been compelled to subsist on a scanty supply of yams and +palm-wine. + +During the last week, the natives had, without any apparent reason, +absented themselves from the settlement; to-day, however, they returned +in great numbers, and among the rest, our old friend Cut-throat, +exhibiting a large gash on his forehead. He gave us to understand, that +there had been some warfare between the various tribes, concerning a +quantity of iron, probably that which Chameleon's party had stolen from +Messrs. Vidal and Jeffery. + +_Tuesday, Dec. 25_.--This being Christmas-day, Captain Owen selected it +for taking formal possession of the settlement, in the name, and on +behalf of his Sovereign, George the Fourth. At seven o'clock in the +morning, accompanied by most of his officers and ship's company, he went +on shore for this purpose. The different parties of our colony being +assembled, the whole marched in procession, from the border parade, in +the following order, with bugles, drums and fifes, playing alternately:-- + + Captains Owen and Harrison, + Surgeon Cowen and Lieutenant Holman, + Messrs. Jeffery and Carter, + The Surgeon and Purser of the Eden, + The European Volunteers, commanded by Lieutenant Glover, + Lieutenant Vidal, with half the Eden's ship's company, + and the Midshipmen of his division, + The Colours, carried by Mr. Wood, + The Band, + Lieutenant Badgeley, with half the Eden's ship's company, + and the Midshipmen of his division, + The Marines and Royal African Corps, under Lieutenant Mends, + The Clarence Militia, under their respective Officers: + First Division--Lieutenant Morrison, + Second Division--Lieutenant Abbott, + Third Division--Ensign Matthews, + Tom Liverpool's party, under Bell, + Ben Gundo's party, under Miller. + +On arriving at the Point, the different divisions were formed around the +flag-staff; and the colours having been first hoisted, the following +Proclamation was read:-- + + '_Proclamation_,--By William Fitzwilliam Owen, Esq. Captain of His + Majesty's ship Eden, and Superintendent of Fernando Po. + + 'His Majesty, George the Fourth, King of Great Britain and Ireland, + has been graciously pleased to direct that a settlement by his + Majesty's subjects should be established on the Island of Fernando Po, + and his Royal Highness the Lord High Admiral having selected me for + the performance of this service, the formation of the said settlement + has been entrusted to me, under the title and denomination of + Superintendent. + + 'In obedience to the orders of his Royal Highness the Lord High + Admiral, I directed the first operations of clearing the land on this + point (Point William) to be commenced on the first day of November + last, and on the tenth and twelfth following, purchased from the + native chiefs, and from the tenants of one small part of that ground + which I desired to occupy, the full right of property and possession, + for which iron was paid to the amount of three bars, and land-marks + fixed by the native chiefs, to shew the extent of ground so bought. + + '_Therefore_, in the name of God, by whose grace we have been thus + successful, and for the sole use and benefit of his most gracious + Majesty, George the Fourth, King of Great Britain and Ireland, I do, + by this public act, take possession of all the land bought by me as + aforesaid, under the future name of _Clarence_, being all the land + bounded on the north by the sea, on the east and south by Hay-brook, + and on the west by a line running from the sea due south, by the + magnetic needle, or south-south-east, by the pole of the world, until + it joins Hay-brook, the Peninsula of Point William included in the + same, being in north latitude about three degrees and forty-five + minutes, and east longitude from the Observatory of Greenwich, about + eight degrees and forty-five minutes, and the aforesaid western + boundary being taken from a tree marked by the natives, which is two + hundred and eighteen yards from the gate of the ditch across the gorge + of Point William, and bearing, therefore, south twenty and a half + degrees west by the magnetic needle, or south two degrees and thirty + minutes east by the pole of the world. + + 'And, in testimony of this public act, I command all persons present + to attach their names to this Proclamation, as witnesses of the same. + + 'Done by me on Point William, in the settlement of Clarence, on the + Island of Fernando Po, this one thousand eight hundred and + twenty-seventh anniversary of the birth of our blessed Saviour and + Redeemer, and in the eighth year of the reign of his present Majesty. + + 'WILLIAM FITZWILLIAM OWEN, + + _Captain of his Majesty's ship Eden, and Superintendent of Fernando + Po._ + + 'GOD SAVE THE KING.' + +The following additional Proclamation was then read:-- + + '_Proclamation_,--By William Fitzwilliam Owen, Esq. Captain of his + Majesty's ship Eden, and Superintendent of Fernando Po. + + 'It has become necessary to extend our lines for the purpose of + keeping the natives more separate from our working parties, which are, + at times, much incommoded by them, and for the purpose of possessing + ground enough for our own establishment. + + '_Therefore_, I do, by this act, formally take possession for his + Majesty, of all unpossessed lands lying between a line running south, + by the compass, or south-south-east by the pole of the world, from + Cockburn-brook on the west, to Hay-brook on the south, and the + coast-line between the said Cockburn and Hay-brooks, including therein + the two islets named Adelaide; guaranteeing, at the same time, to the + natives of Fernando Po, perfect security, and unmolested possession of + all such grounds within the said limits as are now settled or + appropriated by them, being apparently four small spots where they + have parks for store yams, which grounds are to be purchased whenever + the chiefs can be assembled for that purpose, and the said natives are + disposed to receive an equivalent for their value. + + 'Given under my hand, at Clarence, this twenty-fifth day of December, + one thousand eight hundred and twenty-seven. + + 'WILLIAM FITZWILLIAM OWEN, + + _Captain of his Majesty's ship Eden, and Superintendent of Fernando + Po._ + + 'GOD SAVE THE KING.' + +The above Proclamations having been read, three general cheers were +given, on a signal from the boatswain's pipe, after which the band +struck up 'God save the King,' succeeded by a _feu de joie_ from the +volunteers, marines, and African corps, which was immediately responded +to, by a royal salute, from His Majesty's ship Eden, the Steam-vessel, +and the African (a merchant schooner), and afterwards from small cannon +at the settlement. + +The ceremony being thus concluded, the different parties marched off in +the same order as before, and were dismissed to their respective +quarters, the band playing 'Rule Britannia.' On returning to the Eden, +Capt. Owen performed divine service, Captain Harrison doing the same to +the civil establishment on shore; after which, Capt. Owen gave a dinner, +at Mr. Glover's house, to the whole of the officers engaged in the +establishment. It only remains to be added to the events of this day, +that many of the natives, including our friend Cut-throat, were present +during its different ceremonies. + +_Tuesday, January 1, 1828_.--During the past week nothing of importance +has occurred, excepting that our works are rapidly advancing; as +respects our general pursuits, and intercourse with the natives, much +sameness must necessarily exist. + +Soon after eight o'clock this morning. Captains Owen and Harrison, +attended by a party of marines, proceeded to a native town, eight miles +to the eastward, for the purpose of meeting an old chief, who was said +to be the principal one on that part of the island. After they had +waited a considerable time at the place appointed, the chief made his +appearance, accompanied by 150 spearmen, who entertained our party with +an exhibition of warlike evolutions, when Captain Owen, in return, +directed his marines to go through their military exercise; but, before +they had proceeded far, the chief became evidently much alarmed, and +requested them to desist: his apprehension appeared to be more +particularly excited by the bayonets. Having spent a short time with the +chief, partaking of his palm-wine, and inviting him to return the visit +on the following Tuesday, Captain Owen took his leave. + +In the course of the afternoon Chameleon came to our market, accompanied +by nearly 150 of his followers, all well armed with spears, and walked +up to Mr. Jeffery in a menacing and insulting manner, as if to demand +satisfaction for some injury he had sustained. He even carried his +daring so far as to make a seizure of Mr. Jeffery's person; that +gentleman immediately despatched a messenger to Captain Owen to +communicate what had happened, requesting at the same time that some +soldiers might be sent to his assistance, in order to prevent further +aggression on our lines. Captain Owen immediately hastened to the spot +with a party of the Royal African Corps, and at length succeeded in +conciliating the natives, although, for want of a good interpreter, he +could by no means satisfactorily ascertain the cause of their violent +proceedings. It probably originated in the discontent of the chief, who +had, on the day preceding, in consequence of some misconduct, been +excluded from the market. + +At five o'clock I had the pleasure of accompanying Captain Owen on shore +to a banquet, that had been prepared in honour of him by the civil and +military officers of the establishment. On this occasion the Eden's band +attended, and we were also favoured by the presence of many of the +natives, who were thus enabled to gratify their love of music. The +following ludicrous instance of their enthusiasm in this respect, +occurred one day while the band were playing on the quarter-deck of the +Eden. A chief, named Good-tempered Jack, while listening to the music, +was so absorbed in his feelings, that he became totally insensible to +the circumstance of a native woman, who stood behind him, giving way to +her own raptures, by beating time, with no little vehemence, on his +back. + +_Thursday, 3_.--Lieutenant Vidal, Captain Smith, of the African, +schooner, and others, made an excursion, about eight miles up the +Baracouta river, this morning. They proceeded partly by walking along +the banks, and partly by wading up the bed of the river. They met with +little of interest, excepting that, at about three miles from the mouth, +they observed some fine basaltic pillars: they also shot a few snipes, +and saw the tracks of many deer. + +_Friday, 4_.--Our old acquaintance, Bottle-nose, was to-day found guilty +of an indirect mode of stealing, by demanding payment a second time, +with the greatest possible coolness and effrontery, for a sheep, and a +goat with its kid, for which he had previously received the stipulated +price. Mr. Jeffery, of course, resisted the demand, and brought forward +several persons who most satisfactorily proved the former payment. Mr. +Bottle-nose, however, would not be satisfied with this, and had even the +presumption to complain to Captain Owen, who, on inquiry, was convinced +that he was guilty of an intentional attempt at imposition; he, however, +ordered the animals in question to be returned, but gave directions that +he should never in future be permitted to enter the market, or in any +shape trade with our establishment. This man had also, on the very same +day, been detected in two or three attempts to steal a knife, and +various pieces of iron. It is evident, from the above and other traits, +that the natives of this island, like all other savage nations, are +naturally addicted to thieving: from the fear of detection, however, the +instances of their venturing to indulge the propensity, do not appear to +be numerous. + +_Monday, 7_.--After breakfasting on board the steam-vessel, I +accompanied Lieutenant Vidal and Mr. Cowen on shore, for the purpose of +making observations. In the first place, we investigated the process for +making a beautiful lake-red pigment, which is conducted by the women, +the paint being used as an ornament for their skins. On entering the hut +of an old chief, to whom our visit was more particularly directed, we +found him sitting on the ground, with one of his wives in the same +position holding a calabash, containing a mess of fowl and palm-oil, +which he was eating with one hand, while the other held a roasted yam, +which he also occasionally partook of. Having finished his repast, he +took a draught from a large calabash of palm-wine, which he then +presented to us, having, however, previously poured some into another +vessel, which he gave to his wife. When the lady had finished her +draught, she went to a tree near the hut, whose leaves and berries +resembled those of our laurel, and plucking off about a dozen of the +younger leaves, made them up into a bundle, which she first dipped into +water, and afterwards into wood-ashes; they were then ground into a pulp +on a stone, whose surface formed an inclined place, from which the +material was allowed to run off when sufficiently prepared. On rubbing a +portion of this pulp on our hands and faces, it became, after drying, a +most beautiful and delicate rose colour, which required several times +washing with soap and water before it could be removed, and which, if +allowed to remain without washing, would retain its brilliancy for a +comparatively long time. Mr. Cowen professed his intention of preparing +a quantity of this dye, to send to his fair friends in England. + +We also observed the process for preparing the palm-oil which I have +before described. This oil, from the great number of palm-trees in the +island, will, without doubt, ultimately become a considerable article of +trade; indeed Captain Smith, of the African, schooner, has already +opened a traffic for it, giving iron in exchange. + +Two of the Kroomen to-day knocked down a fine buck deer, one of the +haunches of which weighed six pounds. + +_Tuesday, 8_.--Our market at Longfield, which of late has been held only +twice in the week, when the natives are summoned by the sound of the +bugle, has been well attended to-day. Hitherto Mr. Jeffery has had the +superintendence of it, and it is impossible to pay too high a tribute to +his exertions, and the manner in which he has discharged the very +arduous task of conducting the barter with the natives. The system acted +upon has now become so well defined, that Captain Owen deems it +sufficient to commit the future charge to a corporal of marines, who +has to-day entered on this duty. + +_Thursday, 10_.--A native afflicted with insanity came within our lines +this morning, and continued there until the afternoon. The conduits, or +shoots from the watering-place to the beach, were this day reported to +be completed. + +_Saturday, 12_.--We have for some days been experiencing close warm +weather, which I regret to say has proved unfavourable to our invalids, +the ulcerations having in consequence been apparently aggravated. + +_Monday, 14_.--Mr. Abbott, the store-keeper at Clarence, and John Earle, +seaman of H.M.S. Eden, who had charge of the ordnance at the settlement, +died this afternoon from intermittent fever. + +_Thursday, 17_.--At daylight, the African, steam-vessel, got up her +anchor and steam; when she stood out of the bay and parted company for +England, intending to call at Sierra Leone, for a fresh supply of coals. +She was under the command of Lieut. Vidal, who was charged with +despatches relating to the proceedings of the settlement, &c. Mr. +Bremner, master of the Eden, as well as several invalids, went home +passengers in her: and I availed myself of the opportunity of sending +home numberless specimens of articles used by the natives, amongst which +were the following--the model of a canoe, spears, fishing lines, and +stone slings, made from the fibre of the bark of a tree, bracelets, +armlets, and other trifling ornaments worn about their person; a knife, +made out of an iron hoop, and fitted into a wooden handle; a bell-shaped +wooden rattle, some small boxes, made of split cane, monkey skins, &c. +&c. + +A building, composed of the frames of two small houses, each twenty feet +square, having been erected, near Point William, for an hospital, it was +this day reported to be ready for the reception of the sick, and 17 +seamen of the Eden, with bad ulcers, were sent on shore to occupy it, +leaving 15 on board with the same complaint, besides a few fever cases; +there were also eight more ulcer cases that had been on shore for some +time under a tent, near Point William. This situation was chosen by +Capt. Owen for the hospital, as it was near the extreme point of a small +peninsula, on which the prevailing wind blows transversely, therefore, +if any spot on the settlement, or near the sea-shore of any part of the +island was healthy, it is reasonable to suppose that this would be. The +house consisted of only one floor, with a good broad verandah all round +it, shingled in the same way as the roof of the house.[33] + +_Friday, 18_.--This morning, one of the African Corps followed the +example of our interpreter, Anderson, with this difference, however, +that when he ran away, he took his musket and accoutrements with him. I +do not see what advantage they proposed to themselves by going amongst +the islanders, as they did not speak their language, and could not +expect to procure the means of support, without working hard for it. The +only point in their favour was, that they were of the same colour. + +This afternoon the Eden's boats were sent after a vessel in the offing, +which proved to be a sloop laden with palm-oil, from the Old Calabar +River, bound to Liverpool. A few guanas have been seen here, and the +Kroomen caught one a few days since, which they considered a great +treat, and had cooked agreeably to their taste; but no venomous animal, +except a few snakes, has yet been discovered. The guana is harmless, +and, in some countries, is used for food. It is common to Asia, Africa, +and America. Fortunately the alligator has not been seen in any of the +rivers here, notwithstanding that they are native to all the rivers of +the proximate continent. The cause, no doubt, is, that the rivers on the +island, are mere mountain streams, which are very unfavourable to the +retreat or repose of those reptiles. + +_Saturday, 19_.--Soon after midnight, I accompanied Lieutenant Badgeley +from his Majesty's ship Eden, on board the schooner African, Captain +Smith, when we got under weigh to proceed round the coast of the Bight +of Biafra, between the Camaroon River and Cape Formosa, for the purpose +of cruising off, and entering any of the rivers, in quest of vessels +trading for slaves, where we might have reason to believe that the +inhuman traffic was pursued. The weather was very unpropitious during +the night, for we had it squally, with heavy rain, thunder and +lightning; but it cleared up in the course of the morning, and, at noon, +it was calm and fine;--soon after which we saw a strange vessel, which +we supposed to be a slaver: we, therefore, used every effort to overtake +her, getting out our sweeps, and sending the Eden's pinnace a-head to +tow; which boat, with a good crew of English sailors, Lieutenant +Badgeley had brought with him, to assist in performing the service. We +had not advanced far towards the strange sail, before we observed two +boats coming from her, which came alongside of us about three in the +afternoon, when we found that they belonged to his Majesty's brig +Clinker, which was well manned and armed, and that they entertained the +same suspicions of our purpose as we had held of theirs. The Clinker was +in the very best order, and was commanded by Lieutenant Matson, a most +active and experienced officer. + +I would here remark, that if we desire to be eminently successful in +putting down the slave-trade, our Government ought to select vessels of +a peculiar description, I mean vessels constructed principally for +sailing; for, in the first instance, the very service on which they are +employed is that of chasing vessels that have been built with a special +regard to swiftness on the water. The consequence of the unfitness of +our ships for this particular service, is, that of the number of slavers +that we descry in these seas, the captures make but a small proportion. + +If we had a few of the large class of Baltimore schooners, with a long +12 or 18 pounder a-midships for a chase-gun, and a few carronades for +close action, with a good crew well trained to the sweeps; and a few +brigs similar to the well known Black Joke, I would venture to say, that +they would be more successful, and less expensive to Government, than +the class of vessels that have hitherto been employed on this service. +Instead of a large frigate, with a Commodore's Pennant, we might have a +first class flush-deck sloop of war, built principally for fast sailing, +with a distinguished young Post Captain to command her; for activity and +experience on this coast are more wanted than large ships and officers +of high rank, as there is not much diplomatic business to be carried on +with the African nations. It may also be observed that it is a very safe +coast to navigate, for if you will but sound in time, you may always be +apprized of danger soon enough to avoid it. The worst weather is during +the tornado season, and these squalls, of which there is always timely +notice, generally come off the land, and do not last, on an average, +more than a couple of hours. + +At six we anchored off the entrance of the main channel into the old +Calabar river, in company with H.M. brig Clinker; entrance of the Rio +del Rey bearing E.N.E. + +_Sunday, 20_.--We got under weigh at an early hour this morning, with +the intention of proceeding up the old Calabar, so far as Duke's Town, +off which place the palm-oil vessels, and slavers, generally anchor. +H.M. brig Clinker also got under weigh at the same time, with the +intention of accompanying us a short distance within the bar, where she +was to have anchored; while her boats were to have gone with us, for the +purpose of assisting in the capture of any slave-vessel that might be up +the river, but it unfortunately fell calm about 9 o'clock, when +Lieutenant Matson came on board and acquainted Lieutenant Badgeley that +he was afraid the expedition up the river would detain him longer than +he had expected, and he must therefore relinquish his intentions, and +proceed direct for Fernando Po, in order to obtain a supply of +provisions, of which they had much need. At noon there was a moderate +breeze, and fine clear weather. East point of the old Calabar N.N.E. 7 +miles: but the wind being down the river, we were employed working up +all the afternoon, and having no pilot on board, we occasionally got +rather too close to the mud banks on either side, and once we tacked in +two fathoms water, which is just as much as would keep the vessel +afloat. She was fortunately a very beautiful American pilot-boat +schooner, that with the least breeze was as manageable as a boat. We +scaled the guns, and otherwise prepared for action, for there was no +doubt but that any slave-vessel would resist to the utmost, if there was +the least chance of escape. We were afraid that they might obtain +information of our movements, before we got up to Duke's Town, where +they generally receive their slaves on board, for when they are nearly +ready for sea, they always keep a canoe on the look out at the mouth of +the river, to report when any men-of-war appear on the coast, so that +they might have time to disembark their slaves, before men-of-war, or +their boats, can reach them; for although vessels may be fitted up with +a slave deck, and have every preparation on board for their reception, +you cannot condemn them, unless you actually find slaves on board. + +At 4 the east point of Old Calabar river W.N.W. 7 miles. Anchored at +midnight. + +_Monday, 21_.--Unsettled weather and wind variable. At daylight got +under weigh. At noon light breezes and hazy. + +From 4 to 6 this evening we passed between two lines of fishing-stakes, +indeed we found that a number of large stakes were driven into the mud +banks, in different situations, outside the entrance of the Old Calabar, +some of them a considerable distance from the land; and there were long +lines of them a short distance from each other. + +I endeavoured in vain to find out the reason for placing these stakes in +such situations, many of which were covered with water at the highest +time of the tides. They are called fishing-stakes, and boats certainly +do sometimes go and make fast to them for that purpose, as well as to +wait the turning of the tide, when they are going to places at any +distance along the coast, yet one would think that they would hardly +take so much trouble as to bring, and place so great a number as there +are, and many of them several miles from the land, merely for the above +purposes. They make it very dangerous for boats, or small vessels, +navigating those places in the dark, who are not acquainted with their +existence. If I were allowed to hazard a conjecture on the subject, I +should think they were placed there for the above reason, as men-of-war +often send their boats up the rivers at night in quest of slave-vessels, +for the purpose of coming on them by surprise, and thereby prevent them +from landing the slaves which might be on board preparatory to sailing; +also to get quietly alongside of them in any part of the river, where +they might have anchored for the night, or the turning of the tide, with +their slaves on board, on their way to sea. About 9 o'clock we +unexpectedly found ourselves within the bar of the Old Camaroon river, +where we anchored for the night. + +The tide was running strong, taking the various directions of the coasts +and rivers, and very perplexing to strangers. Unfortunately, there was +no one on board who had ever been here before, and not having been able +to procure a pilot, we were compelled to grope our way, both by night +and by day, with only a rough sketch of a chart to guide us. + +_Tuesday, 22_.--At daylight we got under weigh, and endeavoured to +regain the channel of the Old Calabar river, but we found the tide +stronger than the wind, and that it had carried us on a mud-flat off +little Quay river, which, at about half ebb left the schooner aground, +this obliged us to get some spars out, to prop her up on each side. At +which time we were in the following situation: West point of Old +Calabar river, W. by S. Fish Town point N. by W. 1/2 W. and the +entrance of little Quay river N.N.E. At 5 in the afternoon we got the +spars in and laid a small anchor out, with the assistance of a boat, by +which, and other aid, we hoped to get the vessel entirely clear of the +bank: but we only partly succeeded that tide, for on the return of low +water, we were obliged to have recourse to the same means of propping +her up, from there not being two feet water left on the bank. + +---------- +[31] The calabashes are taken down, and replaced by others, every +morning and evening. + +[32] We have met with some hooks made from the part of the solid wood of +a prickly tree, or shrub, whence the thorn grows, and which process +formed the pointed part of the hook. + +[33] Wood is seldom found to be desirable for building in a hot country, +from the numerous ants and other insects that assail it, particularly +where the changes are so frequent from very dry to very moist weather, +if we had had time, it would have been much better to have erected our +buildings with brick or stone. There is, indeed, plenty of fine clay for +the former; but building stones are scarce in that neighbourhood, and we +had not sufficient lime,--as we had to procure burnt lime from Sierra +Leone, or shells from Accra, both of which we obtained for the building +of an armourer's shop and a bakehouse. Indeed, we were obliged to use +the utmost exertion to get any thing erected to shelter the Europeans +and African soldiers, before the rainy season set in. As for the African +mechanics and labourers, they built their own huts, in certain lines, +that we called streets. + + + + +CHAP. X. + +Slave Canoe--Duke's Pilot--Old Calabar Town--Consternation on Shore, +and disappearance of the Slave Vessels--Fruitless Pursuit of the +Slavers--Eyo Eyo, King Eyo's Brother--Old Calabar Festivals--Attempted +Assassination, and Duke Ephraim's Dilemma--Obesity of the King's +Wives--Ordeal for Regal Honours--Duke's English House--Coasting Voyage +to the Bonny--Author discovers Symptoms of Fever--The Rivers of St. +Nicholas, Sombrero, St. Bartholomew, and Sta. Barbara--"The Smokes"-- +Capture of a Spanish Slave Vessel in the River St. John--Nun, or First +Brass River, discovered to be the Niger--Natural Inland Navigation-- +New Calabar River--Pilot's Jhu Jhu--Foche Island--Author Sleeps on +Shore--Bonny Bath--Interview with King Peppel--Ceremony of +opening the Trade--Rashness of a Slave Dealer--Horrible Fanaticism-- +Schooner at Sea--Return to Fernando Po + + +_Wednesday, January 23, 1828_.--Fortunately the wind was light, for had +it blown hard, the result might have been fatal to the vessel. At seven +in the morning, we found the vessel afloat, and attempted, with a small +anchor and cable, assisted by the sails, to get her over the mud: but, +at eleven o'clock, we were again stuck fast. In the afternoon, we sent a +letter by a Krooman, in a small canoe, to Captain Cumings, of the brig +Kent, lying off the town of Old Calabar, commonly called Duke's Town, as +the king of that country is generally known by the name and title of +Duke Ephraim. In about a couple of hours, the Krooman returned, in +consequence of having met with a very large canoe coming down on her +passage to the Camaroon river, to purchase slaves. He induced the +Captain to come on board, but the appearance of a schooner, with so +large a boat and so many hands, evidently created some suspicion in his +mind. He was too much a man of the world, however, not to affect a +confidence, which we were all persuaded he did not feel:--he drank some +rum, and carried himself with consummate self-possession; gave us all +the Calabar news he could recollect, and demanded our latest +intelligence in return. When the conversation was exhausted, and a good +opportunity occurred for taking leave, he departed; heartily rejoiced, +no doubt, at escaping with so much tact. His canoe was about fifty feet +long, with a small thatched house built on a platform in the centre. The +paddles were worked by boys, under the direction of two men, who gave +out a song when pulling. There were two poor creatures, whom we supposed +to be slaves, confined in irons, at one end of the boat. + +About nine we got clear of the mud-flats, after a great deal of trouble, +with hawsers and a small anchor; we then stood up the river, and at +eleven anchored for the night. + +_Thursday, 24_.--Fresh breezes from the northward, and very hazy. The +wind coming from the Camaroon mountains, increased the haziness of the +atmosphere, and made it feel very cold. Soon after daylight, when the +tide answered, we got under weigh, and beat up the river. About eleven, +we came to an anchor off Parrott Island, the north end of which bore +S.W. 1/2 W. and the north end of James's Island N. by E. At three in the +afternoon, a pilot came on board, and, at five, Captain Smith, with +Lieutenant Badgeley, went up to the brig Kent, off Duke's Town, to +procure information. + +_Friday, 25_.--At three this morning, the same party returned; and, soon +after daylight, we got the schooner under weigh, to beat up the river, +and the Duke's head pilot came on board, when to prove the confidence +that might be reposed in him, he brought a certificate from Lieutenant +Corry, of H.M.S. North Star, which stated that he had piloted that +ship's boats up the river, as well as conducted them down, with a +slave-vessel that they had seized. We blackened the schooner's yellow +sides with a mixture of gunpowder and water. This, however, was not a +very safe pigment, for if a spark of fire had happened to have come in +contact with any part of her side, it would have communicated from one +extremity to the other: but it served for a temporary disguise, which +was all we required. + +About noon, we came abreast of the town of Old Calabar, where we +observed the greatest confusion. Armed men, of different colours and +nations, were running about in all directions, preparing, as we +imagined, to oppose our landing, for it was evident they were alarmed at +our appearance, which sufficiently indicated our intentions. The +slave-vessels, afraid of being seized, had disappeared from before the +town, and gone farther up the river before we arrived, so that, however +we might have been otherwise disposed, we did not drop anchor, but +continued to advance as long as the tide served, which was till +half-past one, when the wind failing, we were obliged to anchor. The +Duke's pilot, when we were off the town, requested to leave us for a +short time; he said, he "must go tell Duke news, and come back +directly." We afterwards discovered that his pretence to go ashore, was +merely a subterfuge to get away altogether, for he never returned, and +we had good reason for believing, that all the people, from the Duke (or +King, which is the same thing) to the meanest of his subjects, secretly +abet the unlawful proceedings of the slavers, by whom they realize much +larger profits than by the regular traders. At three, we sent the small +canoe, with two Kroomen, up the river, to ascertain the situation of the +slave-vessels, and soon got under weigh to follow them; but the wind +dying off towards sunset, we were obliged to anchor again. About an hour +afterwards, our canoe returned, with information that three slave +schooners, and a brig, had gone still farther up the river, indeed, as +far as the navigation of the river would allow, where they had fortified +themselves in the strongest manner, to resist any attack on our part: +having also the support of all the authorities of the native towns and +villages that could, with any show of prudence, be extended to them. We +also understood, that they had not a slave on board of either of them, +which was likely enough, as it is not customary to put them on board +until they are on the point of sailing. These circumstances determined +Lieutenant Badgeley to return to the town, in which resolution he was +also influenced by the consideration of the inferiority of our force. A +schooner of 120 tons, with no more than twenty Europeans on board; the +crew of the vessel being Africans (as the crews of most of the colonial +vessels that navigate this coast are,) could have but a poor chance +against five vessels, mustering not less than 150 white men of different +nations, and reckoning 30 guns to our six. The caution evinced by this +step, however justified by circumstances, did not, I must confess, +appear to me to be very creditable to our character, and must have made +us look very foolish. After having chased the slavers so far up the +river, we ought to have brought the matter to an issue, particularly as +we had the eyes of all the country upon us, and were regarded with great +anxiety by the people of Old Calabar town, as well as by the crews of +the British merchant-vessels in the river. The affair gave the slavers +an opportunity of exulting over our failure, and their own good fortune; +which, I think, was to be regretted. On going down the river, a large +canoe came alongside with one of the great men of the country on board, +named Eyo Eyo, a brother to King Eyo; when he asked for a present, and +something to drink, the customary demand of the natives. We presented +him with a few leaves of tobacco, which appeared to amuse him +exceedingly: he held them up with a contemptuous sneer, and asked if +that was a present? This man was as shrewd a fellow as any we met with, +in Old Calabar, and had long been accustomed to trade, and receive +presents, from captains of slavers, and palm-oil vessels. + +At nine, we arrived off Robin's Town, where a canoe met us, with a note +from Captain Cumings, of the Kent, informing us, that a Frenchman had +entered his palm-oil house, and deliberately shot his second mate +through the body. + +There are two grand festivals here, which take place every eighth day in +succession. Old Calabar day, which was yesterday; and Duke's day, which +happens to-day. The succession of these festivals is curious enough; +that which takes place on Thursday in this week, will be on Friday in +the next week; and the one on Friday this week, will be on Saturday in +the following week, and so on. + +_Saturday, 26_.--We got under weigh, and dropped down with the ebb tide, +abreast of Duke's Town, a distance of three miles, where we anchored. We +had not been long here before the Duke, attended by a number of his +black gentlemen, and followed by Captain Cumings, of the Kent, came on +board to have a grand palaver with Lieutenant Badgeley, concerning the +attempted assassination of Captain Cumings' mate, on the preceding day. +The Frenchman's name was Ferrard, and this monster was no less than the +Captain of a slave-vessel. The cause of this palaver, was an imperative +demand, on the part of Captain Cumings, that the Duke should deliver the +Frenchman into our hands, in order that he should be given up to justice +in the event of the mate's death: but the Duke made great difficulties +concerning the practicability of securing this man, and offered many +excuses to escape the acknowledgment of any responsibility in the +matter. It was clear enough that he wished to protect the assassin, as +indeed it was his policy to shield the slavers, whose trade was more +lucrative to him, than that of any other class of persons. Finding +himself somewhat embarrassed in the conversation, he made an apology for +leaving the vessel, saying he would go on shore and see what could be +done, inviting us at the same time to finish the palaver at his house. +Accordingly we all went on shore, after breakfast, attended by two +marines. A second palaver took place, which was merely a repetition of +the first, and when it terminated, he presented us with some excellent +Champagne, and then exhibited a quantity of fine clothes, with a variety +of other articles, all of which he said he had received as presents. The +only dress His Majesty wore, when he came on board, was a cotton cloth +round his middle, and a fine white beaver hat, bound with broad gold +lace. Captain Cumings, at our request, asked permission of the Duke to +allow us to see his wives, who live in a square formed of mud huts, with +a communication from the back part of his house. The Duke very +courteously complied with our wishes, and sent persons to attend us. +There were about sixty Queens, besides little Princes and Princesses, +with a number of slave-girls to wait upon them. His favourite Queen, the +handsomest of the royal party, was so large that she could scarcely +walk, or even move, indeed they were all prodigiously large, their +beauty consisting more in the mass of physique, than in the delicacy or +symmetry of features or figure. This uniform tendancy to _en bon point_, +on an unusual scale, was accounted for, by the singular fact, that the +female upon whom His Majesty fixes his regards, is regularly fattened up +to a certain standard, previously to the nuptial ceremony, it appearing +to be essential to the Queenly dignity that the lady should be +enormously fat. We saw a very fine young woman undergoing this ordeal. +She was sitting at a table, with a large bowl of farinaceous food; which +she was swallowing as fast as she could pass the spoon to, and from, the +bowl, and her mouth; and she was evidently taking no inconsiderable +trouble to qualify herself for that happy state, which Pope tell us is +the object of every woman's ambition, that of being Queen for life, the +royal road to which, in this country, lies through a course of +gormandizing. The same custom extends to the wives of the great men, who +undergo a similar operation before marriage. On the morning of their +wedding-day they are seated at a table, to receive presents from their +relations and friends; a yard of cloth from one, some silk from another, +some beads from a third, according to the taste incapacity of the +donors. My companions were not much struck with the beauty of the +Queens, for they declared that some of the pretty young slave-girls had +much more lovely looks. Each of the Duke's wives bring, or send, a jug +of water for his large brass-pan bath every morning, and his favourite +wife remains to assist in his ablutions. + +On leaving the Queens' Square, we were invited to go over the Duke's +English house, as it was called, which, in fact it was, having been sent +out in frame, from Liverpool, with carpenters to erect it, by Mr. Bold, +formerly a merchant of that town. This wooden edifice stood by the side +of his mud hut, in which, by the bye, such was the force of habit, he +preferred residing. In the English house there was a grand display of +European articles, consisting of furniture, mirrors, pictures, a +quantity of cut-glass on the sideboard, and to crown all, there was a +large brass arm-chair, weighing 160 pounds, a present from Sir John +Tobin, with an inscription engraved on it, to that effect. + +About two o'clock we took leave of the Duke, and went on board the Kent, +where the poor mate was lying dangerously ill, and we all apprehended +the worst result, not having any medical man to dress the wound, or tell +the exact nature of it. After dining with Captain Cumings, we returned +to the Duke's house, to learn if he had ascertained the name of the +vessel the Frenchman commanded. The reply was unsatisfactory, as he +still declared his ignorance on the subject. It is not unusual for the +blacks (like the Chinese) to identify the ship in the Captain, for +instance, if they want to speak of the Jane, Captain Brown, they say, +'that Brown's ship.' It was, therefore, possible that the Duke might +really have spoken the truth in protesting that the name of the vessel +was unknown to him. + +Finding there was nothing more to be done with the Duke that evening, we +left him, with an assurance that we should persist in our demand of +having either the Captain, or his vessel, delivered up to us; that we +should go and report the circumstance to the Governor of Fernando Po, +who would send a frigate to blockade the port, stop all the trade of the +river, and perhaps come and burn the town. These threats were not +apparently without their effect, although his Majesty was as much afraid +of opposing the slavers, as he was of quarrelling with us. The following +morning at daylight we left Duke's Town, and proceeded down the river, +not however, with the intention of going to Fernando Po, but merely to +visit all the rivers between the Calabar and Cape Formosa, in quest of +slavers, first going to the celebrated Bonny, off which river we arrived +on _Thursday, 31_. Here we saw a brig at anchor, which proved to be the +Neptune, of and from Liverpool. She had been lying here ten days, +waiting for clear weather to enable her to pass the bar, and get into +the river. + +On the day we left Old Calabar town, I had all the symptoms of +approaching fever, such as headache, foul tongue, hot and dry skin, loss +of appetite, prostration of strength, &c. I, therefore, took calomel, +and adopted prompt measures of regimen, abstaining from all food, taking +nothing but diluents, keeping myself quiet, and occupying the mind with +amusing thoughts. By following this practice, at the expiration of three +days, I found myself quite convalescent, after which I soon recovered my +former health and spirits. + +At noon, we parted from the Neptune, and stood to the westward, for the +river St. Nicholas, having had information that two Spanish vessels, +trading for slaves, were in that river. At six, we passed the entrance +of the Sombrero river, and, at midnight, that of St. Bartholomew's +river. + +_Friday, February 1_.--In the afternoon, the Eden's pinnace went to +examine a small river, which was found to be the Sta. Barbara, but there +were no vessels there, and about sunset, we anchored off the river St. +Nicholas. + +_Saturday, 2_.--At daylight, the Eden's pinnace, the schooner's boat, +and a canoe, manned with Kroomen, all well armed, left the schooner to +go in search of the two vessels said to be in the river; but they +returned on board, having examined a large river, three creeks, and one +town, without success. All they saw on the banks of the river, was a +large dog, and a rattle, like those at Fernando Po. + +_Sunday, 3_.--At daylight, weighed and stood to the westward. About +nine o'clock we anchored off a long line of breakers, but no land in +sight, in consequence of the haziness of the weather. That peculiar +state of the atmosphere, which we call hazy, is, perhaps, more +characteristically designated "the smokes," on these coasts. Lieutenant +Badgeley and Capt. Smith, went in the schooner's boat to sound, and +trace the passage into the river St. John, at the entrance of which +we supposed ourselves to be situated. In the afternoon, the party +returned, having not only found the entrance of the river St. John, but +also one of the vessels of which we were in search. At half-past four, +the pinnace, schooner's boat, and Kroo canoe, were despatched, well +manned and armed, to bring the schooner out of the river. At eleven, +Captain Smith returned on board, and informed us, that, at sunset, they +boarded the Spanish schooner Victoria Felicita, armed with one long +nine-pounder and twenty men, and that they took possession of her with +scarcely a show of resistance. The Spaniards endeavoured to get the gun +ready, but the boats came so suddenly upon them, by rounding a point +close to their moorings, that they were completely taken by surprise, +and boarded before they could carry their measures of defence into +effect. There were but two slaves and a part of the crew on board, +the rest of the slaves and the remainder of the crew, being at the +Barakoom, or Slave-yard, to which place they are always consigned so +soon as they are purchased, and left until the vessel is ready for sea, +to escape from the responsibility which would fall upon the commander +of the vessel, in case any slaves were discovered on board. There were +many slave-dealers on the schooner's deck when the boats came in sight, +but they all jumped overboard, and swam to the shore. + +_Monday, 4_.--At daylight, Captain Smith left us to assist in bringing +the prize out of the river, but the day being calm, she was not removed. +We burnt blue lights, at intervals, during the night, as signals to the +prize, or any boat that might be sent from her. + +_Tuesday, 5_.--At nine, we saw the Spaniard under weigh; and, at ten, +she anchored close beside us. She was well supplied with water, of which +we stood in need, and of which we availed ourselves. A midshipman, with +some men, was then appointed to take charge of her to Fernando Po. We +parted company, and proceeded on our further examination of the rivers +on this coast, when we stood to the westward, anchoring off Nun +River,[34] at nine in the evening. + +_Wednesday, 6_.--After breakfast, we sent on shore to procure +information of slavers, in consequence of having seen the smoke of a +fire, which is a well-known signal on the coast, to invite vessels to +trade with them. The fire is made by night, and the smoke forms the +signal by day. Our boat returned, bringing a poor Spaniard from a small +town, just within the entrance of the river, called Pilot's Town.[35] He +was a native of Manilla, and had been left behind by his vessel, but +from what cause he did not state. He told us, the blacks informed him, +that there had been a man of war on the coast, but that she had left +some days since. + +_Thursday, 7_.--Light airs. At daylight we got under weigh, and came to +an anchor, off the mouth of the Bonny river again, soon after sunset. + +We had now examined the entrances of all the rivers between the Bonny, +and Cape Formosa; all of which communicate with each other in the +interior; some being navigable by vessels, but all by canoes; for +instance, a vessel may go in at St. Nicholas, and by passing through a +creek, come out at the St. John's. This piece of intelligence had the +effect of occasionally placing us in some perplexity as to our +movements; for, according to one person, a vessel freighted with slaves +was on the point of coming out of one river; while, at the same time, +agreeably to another informant, the same vessel was stated to be coming +out of another river. + +There is, however, but little doubt that the interior of the country is +intersected by very extensive water communications lying between the +bight of Benin and Biafra, and I heard Captain Owen say, that, in his +opinion, the Niger would be found to discharge itself in one of these +bights, a fact, which I have the satisfaction to learn, is now proved by +the recent discovery of the Landers. + +_Friday, 8_.--At daylight, we made sail. At ten, we received a pilot on +board, and in three hours, entered the channel of the New Calabar river, +which must be passed, before an entrance into the Bonny can be effected. +This position of the Calabar is, however, on the coast usually +denominated the Bonny, in reference to the superior trade of that river. + +The pilot here requested the Captain's permission to make a "jhu jhu," +which is a superstitious rite performed by the natives in these rivers. +The object of the ceremony is to propitiate their deity for a safe +passage and a good trade; the operation consists of spilling a wine +glass full of rum, twice on the bowsprit (upon which the operator +stands), and once on each side of it, into the water. They practise a +similar rite when they anchor, cutting some bread and meat into small +pieces, scattering it in like manner on the bowsprit, into the river, +and also on the deck, while those who stand around, mingle in the act, +by tasting their offerings. The objects worshipped by the people of the +New Calabar, are the tiger and the shark; while the Bonny people worship +the shark and the guana. + +At half-past four, we anchored, for the night, off Foche Island, inside +the first bar of the river, and the pilot went on shore. The town on +this island had been burnt to the ground only a few days before we +arrived, owing to the carelessness of some new slaves, and the people of +the town had determined upon selling the woman to whom the slaves +belonged, as a punishment for her own neglect. + +The dogs on Foche Island were observed to bear a close resemblance to +those of Fernando Po, (a common sort of small cur.) I mention this, +because it has been thought that the Fernandians have had very little +connection with the people of the Continent, as a proof of which, we +have never found any one (out of all the varieties of the African +nations) who could speak with, or understand, the language of the +natives of Fernando Po. + +_Saturday, 9_.--Soon after daylight the pilot returned on board. We +found the natives of Foche Island very cautious in coming off, even the +pilot would not reply to our signals, until we had sent a messenger to +tell him what we were, nor would he even then consent to sleep on board. +I have little doubt, from the timidity he exhibited, that the +slave-vessels have occasionally enticed pilots and their people on +board, and carried them off for slaves. + +Our breakfast this morning consisted of smoked and dried herrings, +corned mackerel, fresh prawns, beef steaks, cold roast beef, cold ham, +roast and boiled yams, eggs, and toast: a supply that will not be +thought despicable for the passengers of a merchant schooner, in the +Bight of Biafra, where the sun was so powerful, that our anchor was hot +enough to serve the purposes of a heated oven. + +At four in the afternoon I accompanied Lieut. Badgeley, with six Kroomen +in a small boat, to visit the town of Bonny, and the English shipping in +the river. Soon after dark we went on board the Neptune, which was lying +off the town of Bonny, and was the same vessel we had boarded outside +the river. After refreshing ourselves with tea, we accompanied the +Surgeon on shore, to look for Captain Cudd, whom we found visiting one +of King Peppel's great men. We wished to call upon the King, but were +informed that we could not be allowed to do so, as his Majesty was too +drunk to receive company, and exceedingly dangerous in his cups; a state +of bliss to which he commonly arrived by that hour, every evening. We, +therefore, contented ourselves by passing the night at the house of the +prime minister, with the intention of waiting upon his Majesty the +following morning. I slept in the same apartment with the Doctor. Our +beds, by courtesy so called, were made on a mud floor; they consisted +merely of a mat spread for each, with a coya-cushion (the outside shell +of the cocoa nut) for a pillow; fortunately the climate is too hot to +require any covering; we therefore lay down without removing our nether +garments; sleep was, however, quite out of the question, for so soon as +the lights were out, the rats and mice came in, and assisted by myriads +of cockroaches and ants, contrived to keep us constantly employed +driving them away from our bodies, until we were in so feverish and +exhausted a state that we anxiously longed for the return of day. + +On the following morning, _Sunday, 10_, I was invited to take a Bonny +warm bath, which I accepted with pleasure, for after such a night the +very name of a bath was refreshing; the Doctor therefore kindly +conducted me into the open space where I was informed that every thing +was prepared. I was seated in an arm chair, with a large brass-pan +before me full of tepid water, about two feet deep, into which I was +requested to put my legs: two or three attendants provided with bowls of +warm water, soap and cloths, now began to operate on my body; the +sensation produced by this process, was similar to the effect of +champooing. After they thought they had sufficiently polished me with +their cloths, they began to pour cold water over me, which was the most +refreshing part of the business; but the reader may imagine what my +feelings were, when to my utter surprise I discovered that the whole +ceremony had been performed by women, many of whom, although black, were +both young and handsome. I had detected a good deal of giggling from the +beginning, and objected to the presence of so many persons; but I was +indifferently told, 'Oh! it was the custom of the country.' + +We accompanied Captain Cudd on board his vessel to breakfast, after +which we all came on shore, to wait upon the King, to whom we were +conducted by our friend Bill Peppel, at whose house we passed the night, +and whom I understood to be the King's most confidential minister. His +Majesty received us in a very easy friendly manner, and in what he +perhaps considered a fine dress, consisting of a neat striped fine +calico shirt, a pair of white trowsers, and a silk cap with a long +tassel. We talked on a variety of subjects, selecting those which we +supposed were interesting to him, such as the regular trade in palm-oil, +and the illicit one in slaves, but our conversation principally turned +on England, in courtesy to the King who had been at Liverpool, in the +capacity of cabin boy, with one of the Captains of the palm-oil vessels. +He ordered some Membo (palm-wine) to be presented to us; we found it +flavoured with a strong bitter, produced by the use of a native nut. To +our European palate, this taste was by no means agreeable. It is with +palm-wine so prepared, however, that his Majesty contrives to get tipsy +with such punctuality. When this liquor first exudes from the tree, and +before the process of fermentation has drawn its intoxicating qualities +into action, it is a sweet and not unpleasant beverage. + +Our interview lasted about an hour, when we took leave of the King, to +return on board. In passing through one of the streets, we saw a guana +climbing up a tree, the Doctor advanced and seized it by the tail, a +proceeding by no means dangerous as regarded the animal, whose nature is +extremely gentle. The natives, however, witnessed this act with horror, +this creature being to them an object of worship. As these animals are +protected by the superstition of the people, and are allowed to enter +their houses at pleasure, they become extremely bold, and frequently +help themselves to a chicken, or any thing else for which they have a +fancy, upon which occasion the owner feels himself highly favoured, and +imagines that some good fortune will attend him in consequence. I was +informed that they have been known to devour young infants. A guana was +once killed on board an English vessel, upon which the trade with that +vessel was immediately stopped, and a grand palaver held, when the +Captain was sentenced to pay a fine of 500 bars, this was afterwards +commuted to 200; and when it was paid the ship was permitted to +recommence trading. + +The ceremony of opening the trade with each vessel is as follows: a day +being appointed by the King, a dinner is prepared, and His Majesty is +entertained by the Captain and his officers, on board the trader. The +black gentlemen who form the royal suite are obliged, upon this +occasion, to trust to chance, and the good-nature of the ship's crew, +for their share of the feast. In order that no point of courtesy may be +wanting, it is requisite to send a boat from the ship to meet His +Majesty, as he comes out of the creek in his own canoe. The King, upon +joining his entertainers, immediately enters their boat; which +condescension is acknowledged by a salute of seven guns, fired from the +ship. On arriving alongside, His Majesty throws an egg at the vessel's +hull; he then ascends to the deck, which is usually covered, from the +gangway to the cabin, with a piece of cloth; an arm chair, covered and +ornamented with the same material, being placed ready for his +accommodation. + +The only beverage used by King Peppel is his favourite Membo, which is +brought on board by his attendants. His Majesty commonly returns about +sunset to the shore, when a second salute of seven guns is fired from +the ship, and the trade is declared free to all his subjects. + +Shortly before our arrival a circumstance occurred which serves to +illustrate King Peppel's good-nature and forbearance. About the middle +of December, 1826, Capt. Lawrenson, a slave agent, arrived at the Bonny, +to purchase a cargo of slaves, which he accomplished in about two +months, and sent them away to the West Indies, remaining behind himself, +with a quantity of goods to make further purchases, having written his +owners to send vessels, and take the slaves away. In the meantime he +contrived to ingratiate himself so much with King Peppel, that His +Majesty allowed him to live in his house, and consulted his opinion, +upon all matters of importance, relative to the white people. Many +months elapsed before any vessel arrived, but when they did, the slaves +were not ready, and the King continued to delude him with promises for +two months longer, at the end of which period, finding his hopes still +unrealized, the impatient Frenchman became enraged at what he considered +the King's deceit, and resolved on taking summary vengeance. +Accordingly, one evening, he went on shore with a cigar in his mouth, +and a few squibs in his pocket, when he deposited the latter in the +thatch of several houses, and set fire to them. The huts being composed +of bamboo, palm-leaves, and reeds, soon burst into a flame, which spread +so rapidly in all quarters, that nearly the whole town was destroyed. +The people were greatly exasperated and wished to kill the Frenchman, +who had not attempted to effect his escape, but King Peppel forbade them +to injure a hair of his head, permitting him to return to his vessel, +which immediately sailed for France; the Captain still vowing vengeance +against the King, and threatening to return with a much larger vessel, +well armed, to commit greater ravages, and to carry off all he could lay +his hands on, until he considered that he had received compensation for +the fraud which he averred had been practised upon him. + +There is a superstitious ceremony performed at the Bonny river, about +once in three years, which consists of offering the most beautiful +virgin they can find, as a sacrifice to their Jhu Jhu, whereby they hope +to propitiate the evil spirit, and avert the dangers to which vessels +are liable in crossing the bar. The victim is taken in a boat to the +mouth of the river, where, after a preparatory ceremonial, she is made +to walk to the extremity of a plank, from which she is precipitated into +the water, where in a few seconds she is devoured by sharks. The mind of +the poor wretch is prepared for this fate: which, indeed, appears to be +a source of pleasure, rather than of terror, from the idea that she is +going at once to Paradise, to become the wife of Jhu Jhu; and towards +the conclusion of the ceremony, it is not uncommon for the victim to +display extravagant transports of joy. One of the English captains +remonstrated with a native for going to witness such an exhibition. +"What?" replied the indignant black,--"What you tink?--Why! she now +married to Jhu Jhu--got large house--more big than any in +Liverpool--plenty copper-bar--plenty rum--plenty clothes--what you tink +she want?--noting!" These articles being the principal objects of the +trade from England, are consequently most desired; and as the majority +of the trading vessels come from Liverpool, where some few of the Bonny +people have been, they consider that town the ultimatum of magnificence +and splendour. + +We went on board the Neptune about noon, where we took an early dinner, +and returned to the schooner about sunset, when we learnt that a grand +deputation of black gentlemen, from New Calabar Town, had arrived, to +invite Capt. Smith to bring his schooner up their river to trade; they +requested him to lose no time, and offered to leave a large canoe for +our use, when we returned from the Bonny; however, Captain Smith would +not agree to their request; and when they discovered, that, instead of +being a trader, we were looking out for slavers, they were glad to get +away. Our pilot partook of their alarm, and, on the following morning, +he sent back the casks empty, with a message, that he could not come on +board again. + +There is much enmity between the Bonny and the New Calabar people, +arising principally out of their rivalship in the trade with foreign +vessels. A short time ago, they had a fight on board an English ship, +under the following circumstances. + +The New Calabar people had got on board the ship Huskinson, and were +taking her up to their town. On the passage, they were attacked by a +number of large canoes, well manned and armed, from the Bonny: a +desperate struggle ensued; the Bonny people lost many lives, but they +succeeded in boarding the vessel, dislodging their opponents, and +triumphantly carried the ship into their river; thus securing all her +trade to themselves. This fight did not, on the present occasion, +produce war between the rival people, as such incidents usually do; it +merely had the effect of suspending their intercourse for a short +period. Their war canoes are very large, and will carry from 50 to 100 +men, well armed with muskets, pistols, sabres, and sometimes a small gun +in the bow. + +We got under weigh in the afternoon, without a pilot, and worked the +schooner over the bar, which is very narrow, and stood out to sea that +evening, notwithstanding there was a fresh breeze against us, through a +very intricate navigation. It was at the entrance of this river that one +of the boats of H.M.S. Maidstone was upset. She had come to an anchor in +the evening, with the tide running in, which made the water very smooth; +but, in the middle of the night, at the turn of the tide, they found the +boat rolling about very uneasily. This very much surprised them, because +the wind had not arisen; the sea soon began to break over them, when the +boat upset, and the surgeon's assistant, with several other persons, was +drowned. This proceeded from the ebb tide encountering the ordinary set +on the land. We left the Bonny with the intention of visiting our +friends in the Old Calabar, in the hope of meeting the Frenchman, who +had shot the mate of the Kent. + +_Tuesday, 12_.--At five this morning, we came to an anchor. The weather +had been squally during the night, and at daylight the wind increased; +the squalls becoming more frequent and heavy, with continued thunder and +lightning; and so heavy a swell, that if we had not taken in the boat +from the stern, she would have been washed away. At daylight, we +discovered that Tom Shot's Point bore N.E. by N. six or seven miles. + +_Wednesday, 13_.--At daylight, saw a vessel at anchor, outside of us, +which proved to be H.M.S. North-Star, and immediately after, Lieut. +Mather came on board to examine us. On that officer's return, Lieutenant +Badgeley and myself went on board the North-Star, to wait on Captain +Arabin, who gave us a most friendly reception. He pressed us to remain +and dine, but Lieutenant Badgeley's anxiety to return to Fernando Po, +obliged us to decline an invitation which otherwise would have proved +extremely agreeable, and as Captain Arabin had sent his boats up the +river (under the command of his first lieutenant) in search of slavers, +it superseded the necessity of our going; we therefore got under weigh, +and sailed to rejoin Captain Owen. + +---------- +[34] "The river Nun, or First Brass River, is the main branch of the +Quorra, from whence you pass (in about two hours) through a creek, in an +easterly direction, into the Second Brass River, which is also a large +branch of the Quorra."--_Lander_, vol. iii. p. 224. "Brass, properly +speaking, consists of two towns of nearly equal size, containing about a +thousand inhabitants, and built on the borders of a kind of basin, which +is formed by a number of rivulets, entering it from the Niger, through +forests of mangrove bushes. One of them is under the domination of a +noted scoundrel called King _Jacket_, who has already been spoken of; +and the other is governed by a rival chief, named King Forday. These +towns are situated directly opposite to each other, and within the +distance of eighty yards, and are built on a marshy ground, which +occasions the huts to be always wet."--_Lander_, vol. iii. p. 234. + +[35] "A place, called Pilot's Town by Europeans, from the number of +pilots that reside in it, is situated nearly at the entrance of the +First Brass River (which, we understand, is the Nun River of Europeans), +and at the distance of sixty or seventy miles from hence. This town +acknowledges the authority of both kings, having been originally peopled +by settlers from each of their towns."--_Lander_, vol. iii. p. 234. + + + + +CHAP. XI. + +Reverence for Beards--Native Shields--Petty Thefts--Tornado Season-- +Author departs for Calabar--Waterspout--Palm-oil Vessels--Visit +to Duke Ephraim--Escape of a Schooner with Slaves--Calabar Sunday-- +Funeral of a Duke's Brother--Egbo Laws--Egbo Assembly--Extraordinary +Mode of recovering Debts--Superstition and Credulity--Cruelty of the +Calabar People to Slaves--Royal Slave Dealer--Royal Monopoly--Manner +of Trading with the Natives--Want of Missionaries--Capt. Owen's +Arrival--Visit Creek Town with King Eyo--The Royal Establishment-- +Savage Festivities--Calabar Cookery--Old Calabar River + + +_Thursday, 14_.--ARRIVED in Maidstone Bay, at ten o'clock, when we +learnt that Commodore Collier, in the Sybille, with the Esk and +Primrose, had been in the bay, and left it only on the preceding day. We +also heard of the decease of Captain Clapperton, Richard Lander, who was +the bearer of the melancholy tidings, being on board the Esk, for a +passage to England. Received some letters and papers from England, that +had been left for me by my old friend Captain Griffenhooffe, of the +Primrose, and whom I was unfortunately doomed never to meet again in +this sublunary scene; for having suffered from fever, he was invalided, +and died at Ascension, on his way home. We found the Diadem transport +here, which had arrived a few days before, with government stores from +Cape Coast Castle. A remarkable occurrence took place between the agent +(Lieutenant Woodman) and the natives, on their first interview. That +gentleman had, like Captain Owen, and some of his officers, allowed his +beard to grow from the time he had left England, having been induced to +do so for the sake of the advantages, which, from experience. Captain +Owen considered were to be derived from it. In the first place, all the +Arabs wear long beards, and they are held in much respect wherever they +sojourn among the various African nations: not altogether for their +beards, but from their intelligence; however, the beard is naturally +identified with their character. They also command respect, because they +are generally worn by the old men of their own country, and, on our +first arrival, the chiefs of Fernando Po advanced with delight to rub +beards, with all those among us who wore them. When Lieutenant Woodman +left the island for Cape Coast, his beard was of considerable length, +but meeting with Commodore Collier at Accra, that officer would not +receive him in his Fernando Po costume; and being unequal to contend +with the higher powers, yielded to the alternative of removing his +beard, in preference to subjecting himself to the consequences of his +superior officer's displeasure. But, mark the effect!--when he came back +to Fernando Po, the native chiefs turned from him with contempt, +believing that he could not have lost so dignified an appendage, without +having committed some crime. This reminds me of a passage in the 15th +chapter of Gibbon's Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire, viz. "The +practice of shaving the beard excited the pious indignation of the +Fathers of the Church, which practice (according to Tertullian) is a lie +against our own faces, and an impious attempt to improve the works of +the Creator." + +I was sorry to learn, that there had been some altercation between +Commodore Collier, and Captain Owen, on the subject of wearing beards. + +_Saturday, 16_.--Went on shore at day light, and remained till evening, +when I returned on board in the midst of a tornado, which, however, did +not last long, and fortunately had no great strength. We observed a +glare in the mountain, which the natives informed us proceeded from a +fire of considerable extent, made by them for the purpose of driving the +wild oxen, or buffalos, to a certain spot, where they are hamstrung, and +afterwards slain. We never saw any animals in the island, larger than +sheep or goats. I have more than once, in a native hut, found a shield +made of hide, about four feet high and two broad, with a stick passed +longitudinally through each end; but whether they procured these shields +from vessels touching at the island, or from the wild animals described +as being in the mountains, we had no means of ascertaining. + +_Sunday, 17_.--Captain Owen had some of the officers of the Eden, as +well as civilians from the establishment, to dine with him to-day: our +dinner consisted of green turtle, a variety of fish, small mutton, +fowls, &c. all the produce of the island. + +_Monday, 18_.--The weather was now getting very close, hazy, and +oppressive, as the season approached for the hot winds from the +Continent, named, on this coast, the Hermattan, similar to the Sirocco +of the Mediterranean; yet, the thermometer was only 88 deg. F. in the +shade. + +_Tuesday, 19_.--Mr. Galler ran after, and secured, a native who was +making off with an iron hoop. + + But, lo! what dangers doth environ, + The man that meddleth with cold iron, + +for, on the following day, Captain Owen ordered the thief to have his +head shaved, for the purpose of shaming him out of the repetition of his +crime, thus making him an object of ridicule, among his own, as well as +our people; and, as the natives display no small degree of dandyism in +dressing their hair, he hoped that this 'rape of the locks,' would have +a beneficial effect: he, however, considered an additional punishment +necessary, in consequence of the frequency of the offence, iron-stealing +having become a very common practice; he, therefore, ordered the +offender to receive thirty-nine lashes; but at the twenty-fifth he +fainted, from fear, no doubt, certainly not from the severity of the +chastisement; however, he was immediately taken down and carried into +the guard-house, where he continued bellowing, in a most frightful +manner, for a long time. + +_Monday, 25_.--We have had very close weather for several days, with much +thunder and lightning during the whole of last night. At eight o'clock +this morning, a heavy tornado came on, the rain and wind continuing for +more than three hours; the greatest force of the hurricane was, however, +expended in the first hour, from which time it gradually diminished; this +produced a very agreeable change in the state of the atmosphere, the +thermometer having fallen, during the tornado, from 91 deg. to 78 deg. F. +being the lowest degree we have yet experienced. + +_Wednesday, 27_.--The Diadem, transport, Lieut. Woodman, agent, sailed +this morning for Sierra Leone, and England, by which conveyance I sent +letters, and a few curiosities. + +_Friday, 29_.--Mr. Wood was sent, with a party of men, to assist the +gunner in erecting a battery on Adelaide Island. Having made bankrupts +of the natives in the yam market, the African, schooner, sailed to-day +for the purpose of procuring them, in other parts of the island. + +_Saturday, March 1_.--Some days since, a native having been detected +stealing a knife out of Capt. Smith's store, he was sent on board the +Eden to have his head shaved, and be kept in irons for a week; the time +having expired this morning, he was ordered to receive thirty-nine +lashes previously to his dismissal. He bore his punishment well, and was +going away, when, about 300 yards from the place, he fell down in a +fainting fit, doubtless from the apprehension that he was not yet quite +out of our power. Mr. Cowan, the surgeon, ran to his assistance, but the +natives surrounded the patient, and would not allow him to receive +medical aid from us; this was of the less consequence, as their method +of proceeding proved completely effectual. They first bound a strong +narrow leaf around the sufferer's body, stuffing as many more leaves +within the bandage as it would contain: they then chewed some vegetable +substance until it was reduced to a pulp, and when this preparation was +blown up into the nose and ears of the patient, it almost immediately +produced the desired effect. + +There had been much thunder in the distance, and we had seen a good deal +of lightning playing about the Camaroon mountain for several days past; +but more particularly towards the morning. + +_Saturday, 8_.--This being the tornado season, we have experienced one +almost daily, lasting however only a few hours, the rest of the +twenty-four being in part, very cloudy; and in part, very fine. The Lady +Combermere, of Liverpool, which anchored here last night, sailed this +afternoon to prosecute her voyage along the coast. + +The African, schooner, Captain Smith, intending to sail this evening on +a trading voyage up the Calabar river, principally to procure bullocks +for our little colony, I was glad to avail myself of the opportunity of +going as a passenger, for the purpose of making further observations on +the habits and peculiarities of the people. + +We left Maidstone bay about ten o'clock in the evening, taking with us, +by way of experiment, three native youths from the island, an event +which certainly augured well for the future advancement and civilization +of these islanders. + +_Sunday, 9_.--We this morning saw a very large waterspout, which broke +within 200 yards of the vessel, and it is remarkable, that before it +broke, we observed it raining in five or six different parts of the +horizon, while it was quite fair, with the sun shining, in the +intermediate spaces. Soon after four in the afternoon, we entered the +Old Calabar river, and at sunset we anchored in three and a half fathoms +water; east end of Parrot Island, N.N.W. four or five miles. + +_Monday, 10_.--Weather still variable. Got under weigh at daylight, but +it soon fell calm, and we made use of our sweeps. At noon, abreast of +James's Island; and at three, we anchored off Old Calabar, or Duke's +Town. + +We found the brig Kent, Captain Cumings, still here; also, the ship +Agnes, Captain Charles, from Liverpool, for palm-oil; and a Spanish +schooner, from the Havannah, waiting for slaves. Captain Smith and I +accompanied Captain Cumings on shore to pay a visit to Duke Ephraim, +with whom Capt. Cumings was a great favourite, which proved a fortunate +circumstance for us. The schooner having last visited the place as a man +of war, she was received with suspicion, and it was extremely difficult +to convince the Duke and his people, that there was not a _ruse de +guerre_ intended by her reappearance as a mere trader. + +_Tuesday, 11_.--A fine but very hot day. Paid a visit to the Duke after +breakfast, and in the afternoon went three miles down the river to visit +the Lady Combermere on her way up the river. In the evening we paid +another visit to the Duke, at which period, every day, he holds a sort +of levee for supercargoes, and Captains of vessels, to talk over "news." +Upon these occasions he discovers an acute knowledge of his own +interest. Remained on shore, and passed the night in the Duke's English +house, where his visitors always sleep, but none of his family, except a +few domestics in charge of it. This evening a tornado came on with heavy +rain. + +_Wednesday, 12_.--A schooner, that had secreted herself further up the +river; dropped down and anchored off the town last night, after it +became dark, intending to take in her cargo of slaves during the night. +She completed her object before daylight, when she got under weigh, and +sailed down the river, without shewing any colours. + +This day was the Calabar Sunday, but it was not kept as the usual +holiday, in consequence of the recent death of the Duke's favourite +brother. The funeral ceremony is horrible, but I feel bound to describe +it for the sake of shewing the extraordinary superstition and bigotry +that still exists among a people, who have not only been visited, but +regularly traded with, by European nations, for nearly two centuries. I +shall introduce this individual case by premising that human sacrifices +are lavishly made, not only in honour of the blood royal, but in a more +or less degree upon the death of _great_ (or I should more properly say +_rich_) men; for riches constitute greatness here, even in a higher +ratio than they do in more civilized countries; the riches of these +parts consisting in the possession of slaves. + +At the funeral obsequies of the Duke's brother, six human victims were +destined to the sacrifice; namely, three men and three women, who, +however, were, with a strange mixture of mercy and cruelty, rendered +insensible to the terrors of their fate by previous intoxication. Five +of these poor creatures were hung, and placed in the grave of the +Prince, while the sixth, a young and favourite wife, was reserved for a +destiny still more horrible; being thrown alive into the grave, which +was immediately closed over the whole. + +These people practise many other superstitious customs, equally +dreadful, and I am persuaded it needs but a recital of them, to prove +how much they stand in want of the benevolent instructions of Christian +missionaries. + +The laws of the country are worthy of attention, being, perhaps, the +most curious, as well as the most prompt, and effectual, of any that we +are acquainted with, amongst the African nations. The whole of the Old +Calabar country is governed by what are termed the "Egbo laws." These +are laws, enacted by a secret meeting, called the Egbo assembly, which +is held in a house set apart for that purpose, called the Palaver house; +of this assembly the Duke, by virtue of his sovereignty, officiates as +the chief, with the title of Eyamba. There are different degrees of rank +in the subordinate Egbo members, and each step must be purchased +successively. They sometimes admit Englishmen into this assembly: +Captain Burrell of the ship Haywood, of Liverpool, held the rank of +Yampai, which is one of considerable importance, and he found it +exceedingly to his advantage, as it enabled him to recover all debts due +to him by the natives. + +The following are the names, and prices, of each step: + +1. Abungo 125 Bars. +2. Aboko 75 Bars. +3. Makaira 400 White copper rods. +4. Bakimboko 100 Bars. +5. Yampai 850 White copper rods, + +also some rum, goats, membo, &c. &c. + +The Yampai is the only class of Egbo men that are allowed to sit in +council. The sums paid for the different titles of Egbo are divided +among the Yampai only, who are not confined to a single share, for a +Yampai may have his title multiplied as often as he chooses to purchase +additional shares, which entitles the person so purchasing to a +corresponding number of portions in the profits arising out of the +establishment. + +Their mode of administering justice is as follows: When a person cannot +obtain his due from a debtor, or when any injury has been received, +personally or otherwise, the aggrieved party applies to the Duke for the +Egbo drums; acquainting him at the same time with the nature of his +complaint: if the Duke accedes to the demand, the Egbo assembly +immediately meet, and the drums are beat about the town; at the first +sound of which every woman is obliged to retreat within her own +dwelling, upon pain of losing her head for disobedience: nor until the +drum goes round the second time, to shew that council is ended, and the +Egbo returned, are they released from their seclusion. If the complaint +be just, the Egbo is sent to the offending party to warn him of his +delinquency, and to demand reparation, after which announcement no one +dares move out of the house inhabited by the culprit, until the affair +is settled, and if it be not soon arranged, the house is pulled down +about their ears, in which case the loss of a few heads frequently +follows. This extremity, however, rarely occurs, for if the offender be +not able to settle the matter himself, it is generally made up by his +relations and friends. + +The Egbo man--that is the executive person wears a complete disguise, +consisting of a black network close to the skin from head to foot, a hat +with a long feather, horns projecting from his forehead, a large whip in +his right hand, with a bell fastened to the lower part of his back, and +several smaller ones round his ankles. Thus equiped he starts from the +Egbo-house, runs through the streets with his bells ringing, to the +house of the offender, followed by half a dozen subordinate personages +fantastically dressed, each carrying either a sword or stick. + +I one day asked King Eyo who this Egbo was, who ran about with the +bells, "What? you tink Egbo be man, no, he be debil, come up from bush, +nobody know him," was his reply. + +It is their custom upon the death of a great man, to have one of his +slaves, male or female, taken down to the side of the river to make what +they call a devil, which means, I presume, an offering to the Evil +Spirit; this is done in the following manner. A stake is driven into the +ground close to the water's edge, to this the poor wretch is fastened, +the head being pulled as high as possible to stretch the neck for the +sword, by which he is to be decapitated, and after the deed is +accomplished they carry the head through the town rejoicing. + +These frightful orgies used to take place in the daytime, but in +consequence of the repeated remonstrances from the Captains of vessels, +who were shocked by the frequency of these horrid scenes, performed in +sight of all the ships in the river, they now take place in the night; +for my own part I think that the noise occasioned by their savage +merriment, and their running about during the stillness of night, +produces a more appalling picture to the imagination, than even the +reality of the scene in broad day; the only difference is that there are +fewer spectators, as the greater number of those on board the vessels +are wrapt in profound repose. + +The practice of burying the youngest and favourite wives with the corpse +is by no means uncommon,[36] and they resort to a variety of cruel +practices for maiming and destroying their slaves; thus they cut off +parts or the whole of their ears, a part of the nose, a finger or a +hand. One of the servants who waited upon us at the King's house, had +lost an ear in this way, for some trifling offence. + +After a recital of these facts, it is scarcely necessary to observe that +the Calabar people are extremely cruel, indeed I am informed that they +frequently cause their slaves to be put to death for a mere whim; a +practice which they endeavour to excuse, by saying, that if the slaves +were not thus kept in awe of their masters, they would rise in +rebellion: they also plead the necessity of it, for preventing them +becoming too numerous. These reasons form also their apology for +countenancing the slave-trade, a traffic which is most strenuously +supported by the Duke, who also trades largely in palm-oil. + +His method of procuring slaves is worthy of remark. He induces the +Captains to deposit a quantity of goods in his hands, which he sorts +into such portions as would form an ordinary load for a man to carry on +his head. He then sends his agents into the country with the goods to +purchase slaves, promising the Captains their cargoes, amounting to any +given number, within a stated time; in the meanwhile he employs other +persons to collect in his own town and neighbourhood, and if he is very +hard pressed, (for the Captains of slavers are always very impatient), +he obliges his great men to furnish him with a certain number each. This +is done by sending him every individual from the neighbouring villages, +who have committed any crime or misdemeanor; and should he still +continue unable to make up the specified demand, they sell their own +servants to him. The Duke has profited largely by this system, for he +has several warehouses full of goods, some of which he has had in store +for years, such as wines, spirits, liqueurs, sail-cloth, cordage, +manufactured goods, copper rods, iron bars, &c. &c. + +The palm-oil he collects in small quantities from his subjects, in the +neighbourhood of the Calabar, and other small rivers that fall into it. +The Duke, however, does not engross the whole trade, for the commerce +being once regularly opened, may be carried on by any person who has +property to barter. Their mode of proceeding is as follows:--Those who +desire to traffic, come on board and select whatever they want, making +their agreement with the captain as to what they are to bring in return. +If the captain knows them to be honest men, they are allowed to take the +goods away at once; but if they have not sufficient credit with him, +they must get the Duke, or some trustworthy person, to be responsible +for them. I was fortunate enough to be present during the time they were +carrying on business. + +The principal part of the cargoes of the Liverpool vessels who trade for +palm-oil, is salt, of which the natives are very fond; but they consider +it more a luxury, than a necessary condiment; the article next in +estimation is rum; after which, they eagerly desire all descriptions of +manufactured articles; such as cotton cloths, especially those printed +with fancy patterns: all sorts of beads, glass or china-ware, umbrellas, +hats, &c. for which they frequently send orders on board the vessels, +written in the following style. + + NOTES. + + (NO. 1.) + + "Captain Cummins Sir please Let the Bearer have fifteen and the 13 + Crew Cask to fill at Toby Creek. + + "Duke Epbraim." + + (NO. 2.) + + "Captain Image Sir Please Give King Eyo Trust for 800 Crews of Oil be + down for it if his no pay I will pay. + + "Duke Ephraim." + + (NO. 3.) + + "Dear my good friend Captain Halmaga Sir I have send you this letter + to let you know that I send you 1 Goat and I send my Dear John to send + me that Rum you promised me yeseday and I thank you to let me know + what Hour you want me to come down to take my Trust. + + "I am your Best friend + + "King Eyo Honesty at Old Creek Town." + + (NO. 4.) + + "Dear friend Captain Cummins Sir I have to thank you to send me 8 + Empett Cask for to go for Market. + + "I remain your friend Eyo Eyo Honesty."[37] + + (NO. 5.) + + "My friend Captain Commins if you please send me that Rum I been beg + you and thank you for lettle Beef too if you got any. + + "Toby Tom Narrow." + + (NO. 6.) + + "Captain R. Commings Sir I mush obliged to you for please spear me + some nails for make door do my friend I remain Sir + + "Tom Duke." + + (NO. 7.) + + "Captain Cummins Sir I let you know but I want to go to Market for me + self in I send you Book to give me 50 Iranba for 110 Crew Salt then + now I want 70 Crew Salt in them Bring me Book for 40 Crew Salt again + then now I thank you to Down hose head for my 2 small hatt I am your + Humble Servant + + "Antega Ambo." + +If the Christian Missionaries were to establish schools in the towns on +the banks of these rivers, they would be very likely to prove eminently +beneficial to the people, who are very desirous of, receiving every kind +of instruction, more particularly a knowledge of writing, which, at +present, the head men teach each other in an imperfect manner, of which +the above notes form an example. There is not one of them who ever read +English, or any other language in print; and I have heard the Duke +express great regret at not being able to read the newspapers, of the +contents of which, although he had seen many, he still remained +ignorant. + +_Thursday, 13_.--The Eden's prize (a Spanish schooner taken last voyage +by the African) arrived this evening from Fernando Po, with Capt. Owen +on board, to whom Captain Smith and myself immediately went to pay our +respects. + +_Friday, 14_.--Captain Owen visited the Spanish slave schooner, the ship +Agnes, the brig Kent, and mustered the crews of the two palm-oil +vessels, when he met with several volunteers for the Eden. In the +afternoon, he went on shore to see the Duke, who received him very +civilly, but suspiciously, for, notwithstanding their great professions +of friendship for the English in general, and their real regard for some +particular individuals, who are regular traders to the country, the +consideration of the profits they derive from the slave-trade, prompts +them to feel no little annoyance at our interference in their lucrative +commerce. They already perceive that our new settlement at Fernando Po, +is calculated to interfere with their proceedings, and they have clearly +expressed their sentiments upon the subject; not, however, without +clothing their observations so cunningly as to avoid giving offence. + +"What for," said one, "white man come to live in black man's country? +What for can't white man stop in own country? Much better for white man, +than black man's country." + +Mr. Cowan, the hospital assistant at Fernando Po, and myself, +accompanied King Eyo, this evening, in his large canoe, up the river, to +Creek Town, a distance of twelve miles, where his Majesty resides. + +The town is built on the edge of a creek, a short distance from the +river. On our arrival, we found that King Eyo had a larger wooden framed +English house, than the King of the Old Calabar, but not in such good +repair: it was also sent from England by Mr. Bold, of Liverpool, to the +King's father. In the largest room there was an elevated seat, in humble +imitation of a throne, where the King sat to hear and give judgment in +cases of dispute, and other causes that required his interference. He +had a number of articles of English furniture, for instance, drawers, +sofas, chairs, &c. The principal articles in glass, were a chandelier, +suspended in the centre of the room, several mirrors, glass shades, for +lamps or candles; rummers, wine-glasses, &c.; but, like the Duke, his +Majesty does not sleep in his English house, preferring a native hut, +where he was surrounded by his wives and domestics; the latter, of +course, being his slaves. King Eyo is more moderate in his conjugal +establishment than the Duke, having only twenty wives, while Duke +Ephraim's number amounts to sixty. + +The captain of an English vessel calling on the Duke one day, he +exclaimed, "Oh, my friend, you come very good time, I just send away +some of my wives, that I have had to entertain me!"--The captain +replying, that he regretted he had not come sooner, as he should have +liked to see them. The Duke answered, "Oh! no, my friend; you could not; +it is not Calabar fashion!" How many were there? questioned the +captain--"Oh!" replied the Duke, "only twenty-five!" + +_Saturday, 15_.--There was so much noise in the town all night, that we +imagined it must proceed from drunkenness, or else some desperate +rencounter; indeed, it was impossible to think otherwise, for they were +screaming, hallooing, and blowing cows-horns, or conchs, which produced +so horrid a din, that there was no possibility of sleeping, and we +expected no less than that a party would rush into the house where we +were. The uproar, however, died away towards morning, and we learned +afterwards, that it was nothing more than the ordinary savage enjoyment +of the natives. + +Captain Owen arrived this morning to pay King Eyo a visit; he remained a +couple of hours, and then returned to Old Calabar Town. + +In the afternoon, we left Creek Town, with the King, in Tom Eyo's canoe, +to return to Old Calabar; we had been very hospitably entertained by his +Majesty, who gave us what is called Calabar chop, a dish consisting of +any sort of meat stewed in palm-oil, and highly seasoned with pepper. + +The idea of palm-oil may be unpleasant to an English reader, but when it +is fresh, it is not unpalatable, and I must confess, that I greatly +relished a dish of fish and yams which was brought on board the Kent, as +a present to the captain: of course it was cooked in their best style. I +remember, at one time, having as much prejudice as any of my countrymen +against oil; but when I went to France, I partook of it insensibly, +until I began to like it; and, when in Italy, I fell into the custom of +using it with vegetables, as a substitute for melted butter: fresh oil, +in warm climates, being generally preferred to butter, even where both +are to be had, which is not always the case in southern latitudes. + +There are very few good fish in the Old Calabar river; the best I met +with was a species of sole, but very thin, which, I suppose, is owing to +the muddiness of the river itself, and to the extensive mud-banks which +flank the channel. The water in the river is also so bad as to be unfit +for use, in consequence of the quantity of decayed animal and vegetable +matter that must constantly be mixed with it, in a climate where the +progress of putrefaction is so rapid; however, fortunately for the +shipping, there is a good spring on the bank of the river, about a mile +below the town, where it is usual to send for supplies. + +King Eyo went on board the African, schooner, and remained with Captain +Smith to select goods, equal in value to twenty bullocks. + +---------- +[36] It is the custom here to bury their dead in their own houses. + +[37] Brother to King Eyo. + + + + +CHAP. XII. + +Captain Owen's Departure--Runaway Slave--Egbo again--Duke's Sunday-- +Superstitious Abstinence--Anecdote of a Native Gentleman--Breaking +Trade--Author's Visit to Creek Town--Bullocks embarked--Departure from +Calabar--Chased by mistake--Dangerous Situation--Mortality at Fernando +Po--Detection of a Deserter--Frequency of Tornados--Horatio hove +down--Capture of a Slave Vessel--Loss of Mr. Morrison--Another Slave +Vessel taken--Landing a part of the Slaves--Author's Daily Routine-- +Garden of Eden--Monstrous Fish--Continued Mortality--Market at Longfield + + +_Monday, 17_.--After breakfast, Captain Owen sailed in the Victoria for +Fernando Po. The Lady Combermere also departed for the same destination; +the latter vessel, being on a trading voyage along the coast, contained +a number of articles in her freight, much required by the people at the +settlement. + +Soon after these vessels were out of sight, two parties of slaves came +down from the Baracoons, to wash themselves in the river; they were +chained in pairs, the right leg of one to the left leg of another. +Before the Victoria arrived, they were brought down daily; but were not +seen during the time she remained, notwithstanding there were several +depots for slaves in the town. + +Some black gentlemen came on board to-day to barter for bullocks. + +The brig James, from Liverpool, arrived this afternoon. About eight in +the evening, a Calabar man was brought on board from the Kent's +oil-house; he wanted to be secreted until we sailed, as he wished to +make his escape; for, he said, his master wanted to cut his head off, or +to make him chop nut, i.e. to oblige him to eat a poisonous nut, which +produces speedy death, because he had free-mason (meaning witchcraft), +and that his master had been sick ever since he had last flogged him. + +Picked up floating about the harbour, the long-boat of a French slaver, +that had been taken while at anchor here, by a French man-of-war brig.-- +Ther. at 1 P.M. 93 deg. F. in the shade. + +_Wednesday, 19_.--We saw from the vessel to-day, that Egbo was running +about the town. A small canoe, with a couple of the Eden's Kroomen, came +up the river this evening with a letter from the Eden's tender, for +information respecting the Spanish slave-vessel that was expected to +sail. + +_Thursday, 20_.--Fine day, with a fresh sea breeze, which felt quite +reviving after several hot days. Egbo again in action to-day, having +been sent from Old Calabar to Robin's Town, a distance of three miles, +to recover a debt for the Duke. + +_Friday, 21_.--Old Calabar being yesterday, this was Duke's Sunday; but +neither of these holidays were kept with the usual festivity, in +consequence of the prescribed time of the mourning for the Prince, not +having yet expired. When these holidays are observed, it is usual for +the Duke to invite all the captains and super-cargoes of vessels in the +river, when he gives them an excellent dinner, with plenty of palm-wine. +The dinner consists, generally, of goats, wild pigs, monkeys, fish, +plain yams, foofoo, &c. The latter dish is a preparation of boiled yams, +which are pounded in a mortar until they obtain a tenacity that will +admit of being drawn out like birdlime. While the Duke is at dinner, or +breakfast, he usually has some foofoo before him. This he rolls in his +hands into small balls, of about two inches in diameter, before he +partakes of it: it is, however, but justice to remark, that his Majesty +always washes his hands both before and after each meal. + +There is a superstition, prevalent among these people, concerning food +that is forbidden, which is pointed out to them from time to time by +their doctor, or rather by the fetish men, who are the interpreters of +his supposed will; the doctor himself being a mere wooden image; one of +which is always carried about in the suite of the Duke. At the time of +our visit, the Duke was forbidden to eat beef or fowls, consequently he +never allowed them to be put on his table. He was occasionally permitted +to eat fish, because, I presume, he was supposed to have a fancy for it. +At these times, the Duke's attendants are forbidden to taste fish. +Although the Duke does not eat beef or fowls, he occasionally orders the +animals to be sacrificed as an offering to the devil: for the Calabar +people say, that "God is a good man, and will not hurt them; but the +devil is a bad man, and it is therefore necessary to appease him." + +The natives of this country all shave on the day previous to Calabar +Sunday; and it is curious enough that they all do so according to the +Mahommedan mode, excepting when they make devils, that is, go into +mourning, at which period, they not only omit shaving, but put on their +worst clothes. + +The captain of an English vessel, calling one day on a black gentleman, +with whom he was on very friendly terms, opened the door suddenly, +without ceremony, breaking a slight fastening, and found his friend +under the hands of one of his wives, who was performing for him the +office of a barber; a discovery which so offended the prejudices of the +native, that he could never summon courage after that circumstance, to +look the captain full in the face. + +The Duke, King Eyo, and several black gentlemen, breakfasted, and began +their trade, on board the James to-day. The form of breaking trade here +is not so ceremonious as at the Bonny, being merely done by the Duke's +visit a few days after the arrival of a vessel, when refreshments are +provided for him and his suite, after which he selects whatever goods he +wants, and the trade is then open to all his subjects. + +_Sunday, 23_.--There were four guns fired in the town this afternoon, +the object of which was to announce the death of a rich old lady; as +they were not minute-guns one would suppose her relations were rejoicing +at the event which had taken place. + +_Monday, 24_.--This evening I accompanied Captains McGhar, Charles, +Coxenham, and Smith, (all commanding English vessels in the river) to +visit King Eyo at Creek Town, but our visit was rather of a different +character to that which would be paid to crowned heads in Europe; in +this instance our host was the gainer, as well as the honoured party, +for his guests came amply provided with the luxuries of life, and he was +only required to furnish a few necessaries, which are also presented to +him by his subjects, or his particular slaves. The excursion, however, +procured us a little variety, and terminated satisfactorily to all +parties, but after the novelty of a first visit has passed away, there +is little interest to be found in a black town, the huts are all on the +same plan; and the streets rugged and narrow. + +_Tuesday, 25_.--About noon we left Creek Town, to return on board our +respective vessels. Early in the evening we experienced a slight touch +of a tornado, which in a few hours after was followed by a very violent +one, and a good deal of heavy rain. + +_Friday, 28_.--We completed our cargo of bullocks this afternoon, which +we began to receive on board the preceding day. Our whole deck was now +crowded with these animals, divided into compartments, with bamboo and +other spars, leaving only a small space in the fore and after parts to +work the vessel. There was also a platform made in the hold for a +further number. Took leave of our friends at Old Calabar, and dropped +down the river just below seven fathom point, where we anchored for the +night. Had a slight tornado this evening. + +_Saturday, 29_.--Got under weigh at daylight, but were obliged to +anchor again before noon, both wind and tide being against us. We here +found the Haywood, Captain Burrel, at anchor; she was from Liverpool, +bound to Old Calabar, for palm-oil. The larger Liverpool vessels have +generally a small one, for a tender, to collect palm-oil, ebony, and +ivory,[38] at different places on the coast, as the ships generally +remain in one river until their cargoes are complete. There was a +dreadful accident happened to one of these tenders. She was boarded by a +number of piratical blacks in canoes, belonging to an island near the +mouth of the Camaroon river, when they murdered all the trader's crew, +and after plundering the vessel of every thing they thought worth +carrying away, they got clear off with their booty. + +At 5 in the afternoon we got under weigh, and at 8 crossed the bar, +where there was a heavy surf and only 15 feet water, so that we and our +live stock were in some danger. Soon afterwards we were chased, and had +two shots fired at us, being taken for a slaver escaping under cover of +the night, and when the vessel was ranging up alongside, with the +intention of pouring in a heavy fire and boarding us in the smoke, our +assailants, to their great mortification, heard the bellowing of our +oxen, and we discovered the vessel to be the Eden's tender, commanded by +our friend Lieutenant Badgeley, who came on board, when we enjoyed a +good laugh at his disappointment, in taking our horned cattle for +slaves. We soon parted company, leaving him our best wishes. + +_Sunday, 30_.--Soon after midnight the weather, from being very calm and +clear, became overcast, and at 2 o'clock a tornado came on, which +continued with frequent, and most violent gusts of wind, rain, thunder +and lightning, till between five and six in the morning; our situation +was not at all enviable, as we had both the deck, and hold, crowded with +cattle. The violence and variableness of the wind soon raised a very +rough and cross sea, which frequently broke over us, making every thing +fly from side to side, and producing the greatest disorder. All this +time I was in a small moveable bed-place on deck, expecting every +instant that the sea would overwhelm us, and wash me and my bed-place +overboard, for I was in no danger of being washed out of my bed, as it +required no little management to emerge from it at pleasure. This berth +of mine was commonly called a doghouse (a box about six feet long, four +high, and two broad,) containing a mattress fitted about 18 inches from +the deck, above which there was a sliding door and curtain, scarcely +large enough to admit an ordinary sized man. I found it, however, much +more pleasant in fine weather than sleeping below, where the cockroaches +were so numerous that a large dishful might be obtained in a few +minutes, by putting a little treacle in it, to serve both for bait and +trap. I used to think, that if the old story were a fact instead of a +fiction, namely, that the Chinese make Soy of these animals, a very +lucrative trade might be carried on between them and the natives of +these coasts. + +Our schooner was a low, sharp, fast sailing vessel, but in an irregular +sea she was tossed about like a cork. At daylight the weather cleared +up, and the day turned out fine with a moderate breeze, which died away +towards noon, when being in sight of the vessels at anchor in Maidstone +Bay, Captain Smith and I left the schooner, to pull thither in a boat, +and got on board the Eden about two in the afternoon: we also went on +board the Louisa, from Sierra Leone. + +The accounts we received of our infant settlement were not so favourable +as we could have desired, not with regard to the progress of operations, +for that was greater than could be reasonably expected, but from the +sickness that had prevailed, and the consequent loss of several valuable +lives. Mr. Glover, the master of the house-carpenters, died only the +preceding evening, and it is much to be feared that the panic which took +place on the first symptom of illness, (from a deficiency of that moral +courage which every Christian ought to possess) proved more fatal than +the disease itself. This morning we had a most convincing illustration +of this fact. One of the stoutest and healthiest of our Plymouth +artificers, who exhibited no previous symptoms of illness, on hearing of +the death of Mr. Glover burst into a fit of crying, and exclaimed, "Oh +my wife! my children! I shall never see you again!" From that moment he +drooped, and in a few days died from despondency. + +_Good Friday, April, 4_.--About 11 o'clock last night, the sentinel over +the provision store at Newmarket, observed a man lying on the ground, +tearing away the watling off one side of the store. On being challenged, +he rose up, either to make his escape, or to resist the sentinel, who +was advancing with fixed bayonet. In the scuffle that followed, the +culprit was wounded in his left breast, notwithstanding which he +succeeded in releasing himself from the grasp of his adversary. The +sentinel, however, returned to the charge, and following him up closely, +felled him to the earth with a blow from the butt-end of his musket. +Still, however, the thief struggled violently, and prostrate as he was, +endeavoured to bring down his opponent by seizing his legs: the soldier +was now compelled, in self-defence, to transfix his prisoner to the +ground, by running his bayonet through his left arm, until the serjeant +came up, who took him to the guard-house, whither he walked, +notwithstanding his severe wounds, and great loss of blood. His +appearance was that of a native, his body being coated with red clay, +and the fore part of his head shaved, while he wore the usual ornaments, +a girdle, and armlets, of beads: but he was soon discovered to be a +soldier of the African Corps, named Gott, who had run away four months +before, taking with him his arms, accoutrements, and clothes. + +The African, schooner, sailed this afternoon, for the purpose of +procuring yams and live stock from other parts of the island, our people +having bought up the whole stock of the natives in the neighbourhood of +the settlement. We found here a few oysters on the Mangrove trees near +the sea-shore, within reach of the tide. + +_Saturday, 5_.--The Eden's tender, Victoria, returned from the Old +Calabar this afternoon. A heavy tornado this evening, but as it is +almost a daily occurrence, it is scarcely worth noticing. + +_Sunday, 6_.--The Eden's tender, Horatio, with Captain Harrison on +board, returned this afternoon from a week's trading voyage for stock +round the island. A seaman belonging to the Eden was drowned through +carelessness, in upsetting a small boat on leaving the Horatio. The +Victoria sailed this evening, under the command of Lieutenant Robinson, +to blockade several slave-vessels that were daily expected to sail from +the Old Calabar river. + +_Monday, 7_.--The armourer of the Eden died this afternoon. I had been +myself affected with feverish symptoms during the last fortnight, but, +although so many persons were dying around me, I still maintained my +cheerful spirits, to which circumstance I attribute the restoration of +my health, which was now daily improving. I mention this solely for the +sake of impressing upon others the importance which cannot be often +urged, of not giving way to despondency in this insalubrious climate. + +_Thursday, 10_.--The Fame, brigantine, arrived here on her way from the +Camaroon river, bound to Liverpool with palm-oil, which afforded us an +opportunity of sending letters to England: she sailed on _Saturday_, on +which day the Horatio filled, and sunk in Clarence Cove while in the act +of heaving down. This event occasioned much trouble, and it required the +assistance of two vessels to get her up again. The weather had been very +unsettled throughout the past week, with a tornado during some part of +each day or night. + +_Monday, 14_.--The African sailed for the island of Bimbia to procure as +much stock and vegetables as they could obtain. I regretted that a +temporary indisposition prevented me from going, occasioned by a large +boil in a highly irritable state, which is very common on this coast. + +_Tuesday, 15_.--Mr. Mercer, midshipman of the Eden, who had sailed from +hence in the Victoria, returned to-day in charge of the Elizabeth +schooner under French colours, with upwards of 100 slaves on board. He +had taken possession of her from the Eden's pinnace, while Lieutenant +Robinson in the Victoria, went in chase of a suspicious vessel in +another direction. + +The Elizabeth was said to be from Guadaloupe, but from the testimony of +her crew, and other circumstances, it appeared, that she had only got +her French captain and papers from thence, and that she had sailed from +St. Thomas's, under Spanish colours, where she engaged a part of her +crew; the rest, with her Spanish captain, having previously joined her +at Porto Rico. The Spaniard, who acted as captain in the outward bound +voyage, remained at Old Calabar, to go back in another vessel, while he +sent the Frenchman, with false papers, for the voyage home, knowing that +the Eden's tender and boat were on the look-out for him at the mouth of +the river. + +_Wednesday, 16_.--Captain Owen employed himself in the examination of +the papers and crew of the schooner brought in by Mr. Mercer. A short +time before midnight, there was an alarm that a man had fallen +overboard: every exertion was made to pick him up, without success. On +inquiry, the unfortunate person proved to be Mr. Morrison, who had left +England as schoolmaster of the Eden, and who, after the death of Mr. +Abbott, was appointed acting store-keeper to the settlement. For want of +lodging on shore, he used to come on board every night to sleep. Upon +this occasion, he had laid down in the hammock netting on the gangway, a +favourite place with the young gentlemen, as most of the ship's company, +as well as the Kroomen, and black labourers, slept on the deck. It is +supposed, that on awaking, he intended going below, but being drowsy, he +mistook the outside for the inside rail, and fell into the water. He +struggled a very short time before he sunk, and it was therefore +thought, that he must have struck himself against a gun, or the side of +the vessel, in his fall. + +_Thursday, 17_.--We this day hove the Horatio down alongside the Eden to +a pinnace filled with iron ballast: the pinnace sunk during the night in +a squall, in consequence of her iron ballast not having been taken out +at sunset. Eighty-one adult female slaves, and some female children, +were landed this afternoon from the Elizabeth. + +_Sunday, 20_.--About two o'clock in the afternoon, Lieutenant Badgeley +arrived in a Brazilian schooner, Ou Voador (The Flying-fish), which he +had taken with 230 slaves on board. + +_Monday, 21_.--The Victoria, Lieutenant Robinson, returned from Old +Calabar to-day, without having met with any further success. Landed this +afternoon, at the settlement, from the Voador, sixty male slaves, with +forty-two women and children, who were to be employed, with an allowance +of sixpence per day, and their provisions. + +_Wednesday, 23_.--Fired a royal salute from Adelaide Island, in honour +of St. George's day. The African returned with stock from the island of +Bimbia. Landed sixty-four sick children, of both sexes, from the Voador, +their complaints being sore eyes, scurvy, craw-craws (itch), &c. The +black mechanics and labourers, and their wives, shewed the greatest +anxiety to take one, two, or more of these children under their +protection, although they had been previously told that they would not +receive any additional allowance for their support. One woman remarked, +that as she had left her child at Sierra Leone, she wanted another in +its place, to carry at her back; and before they obtained the Governor's +permission for the indulgence of their wishes, they took the beads off +their own necks to decorate their newly-adopted favourites. This +philanthropic disposition was happily not confined to people of colour, +(most of whom had fallen under the protection of the British flag, from +similar situations, i.e. the holds of slave-vessels), as most of the +naval, military, and civil officers, who resided on shore, also received +boys under their protection. + +_Thursday, 24_.--The Wanderer, transport, Lieutenant Young, agent, from +Deptford, arrived this afternoon, with stores for this and Ascension +island; and in the evening, the sloop Lucy, from Sierra Leone, with +provisions for the settlement. + +_Friday, 25_.--This afternoon, the two prizes, Ou Voador and Elizabeth, +sailed for adjudication at Sierra Leone. The African left this evening +for Old Calabar. + +_Saturday, 26_.--This evening the Victoria sailed to blockade the Old +Calabar river. + +_Monday, 28_.--The French captain of the Elizabeth, having offered his +services to superintend one of the working parties of black labourers on +shore, commenced the performance of that duty this morning. The last of +the two horses brought from Sierra Leone, died to-day from a disease in +the mysenteric glands. The Munroe, an American whaling brig, arrived +this evening. Two men, who were taken ill with fever, were ordered on +board the Eden, and there were still five of the Plymouth artificers ill +with the fever on shore; one of whom was in a state of delirium. We had +likewise several seamen suffering from fever on board. + +_Wednesday, 30_.--Ware, a fine boy, about fourteen years of age, whom +Captain Owen had appointed to attend me, was unfortunately taken ill +with fever to-day, which gave me great uneasiness. + +_Thursday, May, 1_.--Went on shore soon after daylight, with the working +parties, attended by a new servant, and returned to breakfast. Went on +shore again before dinner, this being my accustomed routine. I +occasionally remained on shore the whole day, and sometimes at night; +but I preferred sleeping on the deck of the Eden, where, on the top of +the Captain's skylight, I weathered out many a tornado. In this +situation, I was tolerably protected by the sloped awning from the +violence of the wind and the heavy rain, by which it is always +accompanied: but even a wetting, now and then, would have been +preferable to sleeping in a close cabin, between decks, where, in spite +of every precaution, the heat was intolerable. + +_Saturday, 3_.--We have had either a tornado, or heavy rain, with +thunder and lightning, at some part of every twenty-four hours since I +last noticed the weather. Another of the artificers departed this life. +We had cucumbers from the Garden of Eden for dinner. + +The following is a list of the seeds that have been sown there by the +order of Captain Owen, who gave it its poetical appellation. + +Many of them were planted in December, 1827. + + Early York Cabbage. + Emperor ditto. + American Cabbage. + Custard Apple. + Sour Sop. + Sierra Leone Plum. + Tomato. + Orchilla Weed, from St. Vincent's. + Do. St. Antonio. + Do. The Cape. + Do. Madeira. + Fruit Stones, from England. + Canna, or Indian Shot. + Large and small Pepper. + Balsams. + Pride of Barbadoes. + Madeira Broom. + Rose Apple. + Dahlia. + Sunflower. + Four o'Clock. + St. Jago Lilac. + Marigold. + Malta Turnip. + Spanish Onion. + Kidney Bean. + Lettuce. + Mustard and Cress. + American Cress. + Leek. + Cucumber. + Pumpkin. + Lime. + Lemon. + Orange. + Cocoa-nut. + +_Sunday, 4_.--The American brig, Munroe, whaler, sailed to-day, on her +return to her fishing ground. + +_Monday, 5_.--The African, schooner, arrived from Old Calabar, with a +cargo of bullocks, seventy-six in number; also a small cutter from +Sierra Leone, with rice, &c. for the settlement. + +_Tuesday, 6_.--Captain Hurst, of the Wanderer, towed a very large fish +on shore, and hauled it up on the beach for examination, the mate of +that ship, after some difficulty, having killed it with a harpoon. The +sailors called it a Devil Fish, because, perhaps, they had never seen +one so ugly, or so large of its kind before. They endeavoured to +describe it to me, as I was too late to examine it myself; many of our +black labourers having carried away pieces of it immediately after it +was brought to land. The head was formed like the concave of a crescent, +with an eye near the end of each point, and a small orifice just behind +each eye, like an ear. In breadth, it measured fourteen feet and a half, +that is, from the extremities of the fins, or flaps, which resembled +those of a skate; in length, seven feet in the body, and six feet in the +tail. + +A very pretty young native girl, about fifteen years of age, took refuge +in our settlement this afternoon, and placed herself under the care of a +fine strapping young Krooman, servant to Capt. Smith, of the African. + +_Wednesday, 7_.--Forster, the marine, who was superintending a party on +shore, was sent on board in a high fever to-day; and Thomas Welling, +another of our Plymouth artificers, died this morning. We also found +that our bullocks began to die very fast, without our being able to +discover the immediate cause. + +My poor servant lad has continued in a high fever ever since he was +first taken; and this evening, about nine o'clock, his respiration +became very low and quick (the rattles), and for a full hour no hope was +entertained; but, at the end of that time, the alarming symptoms +subsided; his respiration became more easy and natural, and after a +composing sleep of several hours, he awoke with every prospect of +recovery. + +_Saturday, 10_.--The Lucy, cutter, sailed this afternoon to procure +stock from the opposite coast. + +_Monday, 12_.--Forster, the marine, died last night, after five days +illness; and, although the sailmaker was called to sew him up in his +hammock before he was quite cold, the work of decomposition had already +commenced, and the corpse was so offensive, that he had much difficulty +in completing his object. This was a case of remarkable despondency. He +entertained an opinion, from the moment he was attacked, that his +illness would terminate fatally, and it was impossible to inspire him +with the least hope; a state of mind which certainly tended greatly to +the accomplishment of his prophecy. + +The Victoria returned from Old Calabar to-day. + +_Tuesday, 13_.--In the middle of the night, a heavy tornado came on; +after which it continued to blow very hard from the eastward till noon, +when the wind died away to a light breeze, and we had a very fine +afternoon. In the evening, the Horatio sailed for Old Calabar. + +_Wednesday, 14_.--A tornado in the middle of the night. + +_Friday, 16_.--A market opened to-day at Longfield, where our people +were allowed to purchase what they pleased from the natives, paying a +small duty for this privilege to the Colonial Government. Hitherto an +officer had been appointed to make the purchases, and distribute the +articles, gratis, to the establishment. The following were the rates of +the impost:-- + + s. d. + For every Gallon of Palm-Wine 0 8 + Ditto Ditto of Oil 0 2 + 100 Yams 2 0 + Fowl 0 1-1/2 + Sheep, or Goat 2 0 + Kid, or Lamb 0 9 + +For my own part, I cannot perceive the policy of imposing duties upon +such trifling articles, the whole of which would amount to a very +inconsiderable sum, when collected, and it had the bad effect of +rendering the people dissatisfied: God knows, there were sufficient +privations for those living in this infant colony, without imposing +duties upon the few additional comforts of life, that were so scantily +supplied by the inhabitants. + +---------- +[38] Ebony is plenty in this country, but the high duty that is +imposed upon its importation, renders it an unprofitable article in +the English market. At Liverpool it sells for no more than L4 per +ton, the duty out of which is L2 per ton. + + + + +CHAP. XIII. + +Scarcity of Provisions in Fernando Po--Diet of the Natives--Their +Timidity--Its probable Cause--The Recovery of a Liberated African +Deserter--Departure from Fernando Po--Reflections on the Uses of +the Settlement--Causes of Failure--Insalubrity of the Climate-- +Probabilities of Improvement--Arrival off the mouth of the Camaroon +River--Chase of a Brigantine--Her Capture--Her suspicious Appearance-- +Slave Accommodations--Pirates of the North Atlantic Ocean--Prince's +Island--Visit to the Governor--Drunken Frolic of a Marine--Provisions +--Delicious Coffee--Account of the Town--Population--Varieties of +Colour in the Inhabitants--West-bay--Inhospitality of the Governor and +Merchants--Visit to a Brazilian Brigantine--Difficulty of obtaining +a Passage to Angola--Departure of the Emprendadora--The Eden leaves +Prince's Island--Crossing the Equinoctial Line--Dolphin and +Flying-fish--Trade-winds--Ascension Island at Daybreak--Landing-- +Description of the Settlement--Turtle--Goats' Flesh--Abundant Poultry +--Island Game--Aboriginal Foes--Unfaithful Friends--Gladiatorial +Sports--Privileges of Settlers--Traffic--Roads--Water--Culture of +Soil--Produce--Vegetables--Live Stock--Population--Employments--Hours +of Labour--Recreations--Departure from the Island--Recollections of +Ascension on a former Voyage--Dampier, the Navigator--The Variables-- +An Affidavit on Crossing the Line--Change of Weather--Dutch Galliot-- +Passage for the Brazils--Parting of Friends + + +_Saturday, May 17, 1828_.--Mr. Craig, who had come from Sierra Leone to +set up a store, went into the country with a native chief this +afternoon, for the purpose of procuring palm-oil. He returned, however, +the next evening, very much fatigued and disappointed; for he not only +found the journey very harassing, in consequence of the badness of the +paths, but discovered that his mercantile project was fruitless, owing +to the poverty of the natives. Indeed, the people of Fernando Po are +less abundantly supplied with provisions than the nations of Africa in +general; their principal dependance being on yams, which are, of course, +liable to occasional failure. They have very little live stock of any +kind, and the chiefs alone appear to indulge in the luxury of animal +food. It is only on particular occasions, however, that they treat +themselves to a goat, or sheep, as they are principally confined to +fowls. That they are not plentifully supplied with fish, is owing solely +to their own negligence, as there are abundance to be had by those who +take the trouble of toiling for them; but for many days together, not a +canoe was to be seen. It is difficult to ascertain the cause of this +strange indifference; it may be that they are afraid to venture out to +sea, and this is not unlikely, as they appeared, on our first arrival, +to entertain much apprehension at the sight of a strange vessel on their +coast; but, as they became accustomed to our presence, and began to +entertain a feeling of confidence and protection in our friendship, this +diffidence gradually wore off. It cannot be doubted, that their island +has often been visited by vessels engaged in the slave-trade, as well as +by men-of-war. A circumstance occurred a few years ago, which proves +that they are not without hostile visitors; and which, in some measure, +justifies the suspicions with which they regard all strangers. In the +year 1820, or 1821, a Spanish vessel came over from the Camaroon river +to this island, accompanied by King Aqua, with a number of war canoes, +for the purpose of decoying the natives, or, in the event of failing in +their artifice, to adopt hostile measures, with the ultimate view of +seizing upon all they could capture, and selling them for slaves. They +accordingly landed well armed, but met with a stout resistance, which +proved, however, unavailing, the invaders succeeding in making about 150 +prisoners, whom they carried off to the West Indies, and killing as many +more in the skirmish. It is supposed that King Aqua received very little +reward for his services on the occasion, or for the loss his subjects +sustained in the fight. This anecdote was related to me by Captain +Cumings, of the Kent, who was trading on the opposite coast for +palm-oil, at the time it occurred. + +_Thursday, 22_.--The Horatio, schooner (Eden's tender), arrived this +afternoon with only her foremast standing, having lost her mainmast in a +tornado. Mr. Craig has just opened his general store, which, with +Captain Smith's, forms the second mercantile establishment in this +infant settlement. + +_Friday, 23_.--Mr. Adamson, the assistant-surgeon of the Eden, who had +the charge of the hospital, as well as of the mechanics and labourers of +the settlement, and who had resided on shore for the purpose of giving +them his constant attendance, was sent on board the Eden to-day, in +consequence of an attack of fever, which lasted five days. + +_Thursday, 29_.--The weather has continued unsettled; sometimes clear +and hot; sometimes cloudy and close; with alternate rain and cold. We +fired a royal salute to-day on Adelaide Island, in commemoration of the +Restoration. + +_Friday, 30_.--One of the liberated Africans from the Voador, was +brought in this morning by one of our black masons, having been absent, +with three of his companions, ever since he was landed. We learned, that +he, and his party, had lived in the bush by day, emerging at night to +steal yams, and proceed on their journey, until, after an absence of +four weeks, being at some distance up the mountain, they were fiercely +attacked by the natives with spears, and stones thrown from slings. In +this rencontre, one of them was killed, and another taken prisoner; +while he, and his remaining companion, effected their escape, by taking +different directions: they never, it appeared, met afterwards. From this +circumstance, it is evident that the islanders are unwilling to give +shelter to runaways; an occurrence by no means unsatisfactory, as the +newly liberated Africans desert very frequently, and sometimes in small +troops, so many as nine having been known to go away together. + +_Saturday, 31_.--Captain Harrison, the superintendant of works, who had, +up to this time, been living on board the Eden, gave a dinner to Captain +Owen and a select party, at his new residence on shore to-day, to which +I had the pleasure of being invited; but, alas! like most of those who +accompanied the first part of the expedition to this settlement, his +services have since terminated with his life. + +The master of the ship Agnes, of Liverpool, trading for palm-oil, in the +Old Calabar river, arrived in his long-boat this afternoon, for the +purpose of obtaining men from Captain Owen, to navigate the Agnes to +England, part of his crew having previously entered for and joined +H.M.S. Eden. + +_Sunday, June, 1_.--There has been scarcely a day during the last +fortnight, that some vessel has not arrived at, or left the settlement, +and one or more been seen in the offing; in fact, the little colony +appears to become extensively known already, and it is expected that the +large palm-oil vessels will find it more to their advantage to anchor in +Maidstone Bay, and carry on their trade with their tenders only, than to +take their vessels up the river, where the long period occupied in +procuring their cargoes, affords time for the men to imbibe the +pestilential disorders of the climate, frequently occasioning the +sacrifice of many lives. + +_Tuesday, 3_.--The day at last arrived on which I was to quit Fernando +Po. Captain Owen, finding his crew much reduced in numbers from +sickness, which appeared unlikely to diminish, and fearing also, that +his operations would be retarded for the want of stores, determined to +make a visit to Sierra Leone; by this step, hoping to re-establish the +health of his men, and to procure the necessaries of which the Colony +stood in need. Accordingly, making the requisite arrangements on the +establishment, and committing it entirely to the charge of Captain +Harrison, he got under weigh in the afternoon, when we made sail out of +Maidstone Bay, and stood for the opposite coast, with the Agnes' +long-boat in tow. + +On looking back at this incipient colony, and reflecting upon the +probabilities of its future destiny, a few thoughts arise, which this +appears to be the proper place for inserting. + +The formation of a new settlement amongst an uncivilized people must +always be an event of interest, whether we regard it in a political or +moral point of view, as extending the power of the parent nation, or +spreading the advantages of improvement in regions hitherto sunk in the +darkness of barbaric ignorance. The objects proposed by the British +Government in establishing a colony at Fernando Po appear to have been +three-fold, and not less connected with political than moral results. + +First, to create facilities for promoting our commercial relations with +the districts of tropical Africa, in which many valuable necessaries and +costly luxuries are produced. + +Second, to assist in carrying into effect the wise and benevolent +regulations adopted by our Government for the suppression of the +slave-trade, which has been so long the scourge and disgrace of our +fellow men in this portion of the globe. + +Third, to increase the means of advancing the civilization of central +Africa. + +The determination to endeavour to carry these leading objects into full +effect, is sufficiently evidenced in the perseverance with which our +Government has established the British name on the African Coast, in our +different settlements at Sierra Leone, Cape Coast Castle, and other +places. We have made as yet but slight progress towards the completion +of designs so comprehensive in their purpose, we must look for the +causes in impediments which time alone can conquer, and not in any lack +of zeal on the part of those who were appointed to execute the plans of +the Government. If firm resolution, meritorious conduct, and +indefatigable diligence could have mastered the difficulties which meet +the English residents on this insalubrious shore, the ends which it was +desirable to attain must have been speedily accomplished: but +unfortunately the laws of nature and the force of habit oppose us at the +very threshold of our proceedings, and seem almost to render our labour +a work of despair. + +All our attempts to penetrate into Africa, to establish a friendly +intercourse with the people, and to abolish the traffic in human life +are repelled, and frequently rendered abortive, by the fatal influence +of the climate, and the obstinate resistance of the natives to our +projects of liberty, which they oppose because they derive a lucrative +source of income from the slave-trade, while habit has made them +insensible to its ignominies and miseries. This opposition to our +progress would be of no moment, if the barbarous notions of the people +were not favoured by the repulsive nature of the climate, which is even +more pernicious than we originally believed when we ventured to form a +British settlement within its range. It is so unpropitious to European +life that the pestilential breath of death may be said to lurk in every +calm, and to be wafted in every gale. + +It has been supposed, and not without reason, that much of the +insalubrity of the climate may be referred to local causes, and that if +the soil could be completely cleared and drained, the operations of the +air in the redeemed space would expel, or reduce, the baneful influences +that at present produce such extensive mortality. But this would be a +labour demanding almost an incalculable and indefinite period of time, +and which the difficulty of procuring sufficient manual power must +always render nearly impossible, to any great extent. + +Hitherto, the situation and prospects of the settlement of Fernando Po +have been discouraging, in consequence of the disease having been more +universal in its ravages than we had anticipated. But it must not, +therefore, be supposed that the place is more unhealthy than other parts +on the coast, or even that the deaths which occurred, during the period +to which I more particularly allude, were occasioned by the insalubrity +of the situation. When the crew of the Eden suffered so much from fever, +it broke out on board of that vessel while she was at Sierra Leone, and +several of the officers and men died before she returned to Fernando Po: +the mortality that ensued was in a great measure caused by the contagion +which the infected sailors spread at the settlement. Several vessels +also arrived before I left the Colony with invalids on board, but the +deaths that took place in their number, certainly ought not to be +introduced into the argument against the insalubrity of the island. + +That Fernando Po must always be liable to considerable atmospheric +changes, and become, at particular seasons, very unhealthy, there cannot +be a doubt: but that is invariably the case in all low situations within +the tropics, on the west coast of Africa, where the decomposition of +animal and vegetable matter is so rapid in its progress. But the insular +situation of Fernando Po, with its many local advantages and +peculiarities, may ultimately have the effect of diminishing the +production of miasmata, or at least of correcting their deleterious +qualities, and preventing such immense and dangerous accumulations, as +have on the adjacent continent produced so great a loss of European +life. + +_Wednesday, 4_.--At daylight we cast off the Agnes' long-boat, leaving +her to prosecute her voyage up the Calabar to her own ship, while we +stood to the eastward. + +_Thursday, 5_.--Unsettled weather. In the afternoon we anchored off the +mouth of the Camaroon river, where Lieutenant Badgeley and Mr. Wood +went, in separate boats, to examine the river, for slave-vessels. + +_Saturday, 7_.--Soon after daylight this morning our boats returned, +reporting that there was a Brazilian brig, at anchor, some distance up +the Camaroon river, waiting for a cargo of slaves; and a Brazilian +schooner at the Island of Bimbia, near the entrance of the river, on the +same service. At noon we got under weigh, and stood to the southward. + +_Wednesday, 11_.--Lat. 2 deg. 4'. N. Wind from S.S.W. to W.S.W. Tacked and +sounded occasionally, working up to Prince's Island, and also in chase +of a brigantine. + +_Thursday, 12_.--At 10 in the forenoon we tacked to the southward in +hopes of falling in with the brigantine, which we supposed had stood +toward the land in the night, and at noon our expectations were +realized: we also saw her in a more favourable point for pursuit, she +being a little under our lee. Finding that she could not escape us, she +put a good face on the matter, and continued to stand towards us. +Between one and two o'clock we sent a boat's-crew on board to examine +her. She proved to be the Emprendadora, a Spanish brigantine from the +Havannah, well armed, mounting one long eighteen-pounder on a swivel, +and four 12 lb. carronades, and having thirty-two persons on board. Her +outfit and general appearance were extremely suspicious, for she had not +only a slave-deck, with irons, &c., but also two slaves, secreted in the +forehold, from whom we learnt that they had been stolen from Po-Po, near +Wydah. She had also a quantity of merchandise on board, without having +any Custom-house certificate of clearance from the Havannah, or indeed +any other account of it, which circumstances led us to believe that it +had been plundered from some American vessel. It was evident that she +had been along the Gold Coast, and round the Bights of Benin and Biafra. +The Captain stated that he was going to Prince's Island to procure +anchors, having only one remaining, and that one, with but a single +fluke to it. We afterwards learnt from the crew that he had endeavoured +to enter the river Lagos, but had been fired on and forced to retire, by +several Brazilian vessels lying there at the time. We conjectured that +she had left the West Indies, on a pretence of going to the coast of +Africa, upon a slaving voyage, without any cargo, except perhaps a small +quantity of specie, in dollars and gold, but carrying an efficient crew, +composed of persons from various nations, and a good stock of +provisions. Vessels, thus equipped, frequently traverse these seas, and +being generally very fast sailers, they contrive to keep away from ships +better armed than themselves, and to board only those that they can +approach, or run away from, at convenience; when convinced that they are +not likely to encounter any resistance, they plunder such vessels at +their pleasure: but should they arrive on the coast of Africa, without +having succeeded in obtaining plunder on their voyage to enable them to +purchase slaves, they entrap and steal such negroes as they can get into +their power, and then return to the West Indies to dispose of their +slave cargo. This is the general character of these pirates, that are +occasionally met in different parts of the North Atlantic Ocean, and +also about the equinoctial line. I have heard numerous instances of +vessels, from Europe, bound to these latitudes, meeting on their voyages +with one or more of such vessels. Prison ships going to New South Wales +have been followed by them; and scrutinized with spy glasses from their +decks: but they have never yet ventured to attack a prison-ship, the +sight of soldiers being quite enough to deter them from any hostile +attempt. Indeed, I believe the best plan in meeting these marauders is, +to assume as bold an air, and make as much show of resistance as +possible. Knowing the character of these craft, Captain Owen thought it +right to detain the brigantine, and therefore sent Lieut. Robinson, Mr. +Wood, midshipman, and twenty-two men, to take her into Sierra Leone, for +adjudication. In the evening we parted company, but expected to find her +at our rendezvous in Prince's Island. + +_Saturday, 14_.--At daylight saw Prince's Island, towards which we +continued to make our course. At eight came to anchor in Port Antonio, +where we found Lieutenant Robinson with the captured brigantine, and +also the Vengeance, a Brazilian brigantine on a slaving voyage, which +had put in for Cassada root, or Mandioc, upon which these people +principally feed their slaves. After breakfast I accompanied Captain +Owen on shore to wait on the Governor, who received us very politely, +and introduced us to his lady and family. On leaving the Government +House, we proceeded to that of Mr. Ferraro, who was said to be the +richest and only respectable merchant here, but he had gone into the +country; we therefore walked about the town until our curiosity was +satisfied. There were no inns in the place, only some public houses, +where nothing could be got but spirits, and inferior wines. The sailors, +however, considered it a very civilized place, because it afforded them +the means of getting most agreeably drunk, a feat which they could not +accomplish at Fernando Po. Captain. Owen having allowed some of his men +to go on shore for amusement, one of the marines contrived to get into a +drunken frolic, and was so troublesome, that it puzzled the whole guard +of black soldiers to secure him. I regret to remark that in many foreign +places, the people intentionally lead our sailors into disputes, merely +to obtain a fee for releasing them. + +_Sunday, 15_.--After divine service, I accompanied Captain Owen in a +walk to a negro village, about two or three miles distant, and to which +there was no distinct road, but merely a rough irregular path. There was +little of interest to be seen there, and scarcely any refreshment to be +procured; the blacks brought us a few young cocoanuts, of which we drank +the milk. The only fruits to be had on the island, were pine-apples, +plantains, bananas, lemons, limes, and a few more common kinds, all of +which the blacks brought to the ship in their own boats; as also +vegetables, namely, pumpkins, onions, cucumbers, tomatos, &c. The +oranges do not come into season until September. The principal +plantations were mandioc and coffee, and there was also a small quantity +of cocoa; the coffee is rather celebrated for its flavour and quality. +The prices vary a good deal, but we found the average from eight to +twelve pounds for a dollar. The natives both roast, and sell, their +coffee with a pellicle over the berry, and I should imagine it is to +this circumstance that its singularly delicious flavour may be +attributed. We found the place very gay, it being the festival of St. +Antonio, the patron saint, which, considering it is a Portuguese town, +and situated in such a demi-civilized part of the world, may be called +rather a neat one. It contained about twelve hundred houses, and seven +churches, most of these, however, were in a miserable state. There were +not more than fifty Europeans on the island, the whole population of +which does not exceed four thousand. The principal part of these were +negroes, who, of course, were slaves[39], and the remainder were of +different shades from black to white. This island has still the +character of slave-dealing, in a small way, with some of the African +nations. One of the gentlemen of the Eden, rode across the island to +West-bay, about six miles distant, but the road was a mere footpath, and +scarcely entitled to be considered a bridle-road. West-bay is where our +men-of-war, on the African station, generally anchor to procure water. +It is a place of no consequence, in a mercantile point of view, as it +consists merely of a small negro village. We heard that the great +merchant, Mr. Ferraro, had been at his house in town to-day, but he left +it again without having shewn the courtesy to return Captain Owen's +visit; perhaps, he feared that such an effort of politeness might lead +to a demand upon his hospitality, a virtue for which the Portuguese are +not very remarkable, especially in their intercourse with Englishmen; in +this respect, the Governor was no less a niggard of his attentions than +the rest of his countrymen, giving no invitation either to Capt. Owen or +any of his officers, whose ceremonious visit cost him, no doubt, +infinite annoyance, as, upon that occasion, his Excellency was obliged +to appear clean shaved, and in his full uniform, a laborious sacrifice +to cleanliness and grandeur, at the expense of his accustomed habits of +luxurious indolence and personal ease. + +We found the latitude of Port Antonio, by a good observation with stars, +to be 1 deg. 38'. N. while, in most books on navigation, it is laid +down in 1 deg. 27'. N. + +_Monday, 16_.--Visited the Brazilian brigantine (Vengeance), with Signor +Begaro, who was sailing-master of the Voador, slave-schooner, taken by +Lieutenant Badgeley, in the Eden's boat, in company with the African, +schooner. This gentleman had prevailed on his countrymen to accommodate +him on board, for a passage to the Brazils, however, they had first to +procure their cargo of slaves; and told us, that they were going +southward of the line for them, but we thought, if that were the case, +they would not have come to the northward of the line, merely to get +provisions.[40] From this circumstance, we suspected it to be their +intention to go to the Camaroon, or some other river in that direction, +where slaves are not above one-third of the price that they are to the +south of the line, and where children (which they always prefer to +adults) are also more easily procured. Could I have believed their +assurance that they were southward bound, I should have endeavoured to +have made arrangements with the captain to take me with him, being +anxious to get to St. Paul de Loando, for the purpose of visiting +different parts of Angola, and in which view I had prepared myself with +a letter of introduction to the Viceroy of that country, from a +distinguished person in England: but although I had been about seven +months at Fernando Po, and other parts of the Bight of Biafra, I had +never met with an opportunity for proceeding to Angola; I was therefore +obliged to leave that place out of my plan, and to make the Brazils the +next point in my route; with this intention I thought it most desirable +to return to Sierra Leone with Captain Owen, where I might meet with a +captured slave-vessel, that had been bought up by the agents, to be sent +to some part of the Brazils, from whence there would be no difficulty in +my ultimately reaching Rio de Janeiro. + +Captain Owen had a Portuguese Abbe, Signor Begaro, and some of his +officers, to dine with him to-day. + +_Tuesday, 17_.--As it was Captain Owen's intention to visit Ascension +before he went to Sierra Leone, we parted company with the Emprendadora, +desiring Lieutenant Robinson to make the best of his way to the latter +place; she accordingly sailed this morning at daylight, passing round to +leeward of the island, while we followed soon after, with the intention +of working to windward. + +_Wednesday, 18_.--We had a fine fresh breeze, veering between S. and +S.W., and kept our course to the westward. Lat. 1 deg. 0'. N. On getting +into the open sea, we found the weather much colder than it was at +Fernando Po, notwithstanding we were 3 deg. nearer the equinoctial line, +than at the former place, while the thermometer for the last twenty-four +hours, has only ranged from 74 deg. to 78 deg. F. Indeed, it is very +commonly remarked, that the poor slaves brought from the Bights of Benin +and Biafra, for the Brazils, suffer dreadfully from the cold, when they +get into the open sea, and approach the line. + +_Thursday, 19_.--There was a fine southerly breeze to-day, and we +crossed the equinoctial line this forenoon, without observing the usual +custom of shaving, having gone through that ceremony on passing the +tropic, before we arrived at Sierra Leone, not expecting, at that time, +the Eden would have occasion to cross the equinoctial line. Latitude, at +noon, 0 deg. 6'. S. steering W. by S. with the wind south. There have been +numberless flying-fish, with a few bonetas and dolphins sporting round +the ship at times, to-day; men-of-war are not very successful in taking +these fish, but in a low, dull sailing merchant-vessel, it is otherwise, +particularly if she is not coppered, and has been sometime in a warm +climate. I consider the dolphin and flying-fish to be exceedingly +palatable food, but the boneta is strongly flavoured, and very close +grained, approaching to the solidity of animal flesh. + +_Sunday, 21_.--Latitude, at noon, 28 deg. 19'. S. Still a fresh +trade-wind, but as we advanced from the Bight of Biafra into the Southern +Atlantic Ocean, increasing our distance, at the same time, from the +continent of Africa, we found the wind gradually drawing from the westward +of south, to the eastward of south, until it arrived at that point (S.E.), +which is the prevailing trade-wind of the Southern Atlantic, from the +equinoctial line to about the 28th degree of south latitude, varying a +few degrees from these extremes, according to the season of the year. +Being now in the regular trade-wind, I shall not think it necessary to +trouble my readers with any farther remarks on the common routine of the +duties of a ship, until we come within sight of Ascension, + + Whose rocky shores to the glad sailor's eye + Reflect the gleams of morning. + +Having run for this little island in the middle of the ocean, during the +night, we saw it immediately on the break of day, of _Wednesday, 25th_, +within a mile of the computed distance, viz. three or four leagues. At +eight, we anchored in N.W. Bay, in eleven fathoms water, about half a +mile from the landing-place, when the Governor, Lieut.-Colonel Nichols, +came on board; and after breakfast. Captain Owen and myself accompanied +him on shore, in the gig. We landed with facility, there being very +little surf, and some marines ready to run the boat upon the beach the +moment she touched the ground. The officers of the establishment were +prepared to receive us, and we were introduced to them individually. We +first visited the mess-room, which, with some apartments attached to it +for the officers' quarters, is one of three buildings that are distinct +from the general establishment, called Regent Square. The second +building is a store-house, containing provisions for the African +squadron, as well as the persons employed on the island; and the third, +a house that was built for the Governor, but which Colonel Nichols +allows Lieutenant Stanwell to reside in, he being a married man, with a +family of five children. One part of Regent Square is composed of the +barracks for the marines, and the other for the liberated Africans that +are employed on the island. All these buildings are of stone, which is +the cheapest material that can be procured. The coral that is found on +the beach, makes excellent lime, and enhances the utility of the +quarries. It is fortunate that the island contains these resources, as +it is entirely destitute of brick and timber. There was a tank of +considerable size in progress, not far from the establishment; close to +the landing-place there was a large pond of salt water for keeping the +turtle which are taken during the season, for supplies to the shipping, +&c.; there were about eighty turtles in it, at the time of our arrival. + +Colonel Nichols, Captain Owen, and myself, dined with. Mr. and Mrs. +Stanwell, where, among other things, we had a large loin of wether goat, +which, in my opinion, was equal to the finest mutton; indeed, had it +been called mutton, I should not have known the difference, it was so +fat and highly flavoured. There are about six hundred goats on the +island, who are allowed to wander in herds, browsing on the sides of the +hills, and feeding on whatever herbage they can procure in the valleys. +In this way, no doubt, they pick up many aromatic herbs,[41] which give +a peculiarly fine flavour to the meat; but the flesh of goats, is not +the only description of fresh provisions on the island. Those who reside +here, are much better provided, in this particular, than people in +England imagine, for there is a moderate supply of cattle and sheep, for +general consumption, while most individuals have their own private stock +of domestic poultry. Turkeys arid fowls thrive well here; but geese and +ducks, very indifferently, from the want of fresh streams and pools, so +necessary to their nature, in consequence of which they lay their eggs, +but do not produce young. They have also a few goats, and abundance of +guinea fowls,[42] in a wild state, which, in flavour, greatly surpass +those that have been domesticated; and some of the domestic poultry of +the gallinaceous tribe, that have returned to their aboriginal state. +These three species of Ascension game, with the hunting of wild cats, +occasionally afford no little amusement to the officers of the +establishment. A number of cats were originally introduced; in their +tame state, to destroy the rats, which, at one period, overran the +island; but, after routing the rats, the cats, like the Saxons of old, +finding themselves masters of the soil, became greater usurpers than the +foes whom they had been called in to vanquish. These treacherous +animals, and most unworthy allies, discovering that they could sustain +themselves in freedom, without the aid of the biped population, fled +into the least inhabited parts of the island, where they lived most +royally upon young guinea fowl, and other wild poultry; regaling +themselves occasionally upon eggs, or such other dainties as fell in the +way of their most destructive claws. So numerous had this band of +quadruped freebooters become, at the time of our visit, that the +inhabitants had been compelled to call in the assistance of a number of +dogs,[43] for the purpose of putting them to flight; and the gentlemen +sportsmen of the island declare, that a battle between these belligerent +powers and natural enemies presents a scene of unusual excitement and +interest to the lovers of animal gladiatorship. + +The sale of spirits is prohibited on the island, but each man may +purchase one pint of brown stout per diem. Butter, cheese, and other +little comforts, were to be procured from a stock that had been sent out +by dealers in England; having, it is said, ten per cent. profit on their +exportation, and two per cent. to the corporal who took charge of its +disposal. It had no freightage to pay, as the owners were allowed the +privilege of sending it out in a transport, which annually brings stores +to the island; and, I was informed, that the British Government allowed +the Governor to exchange turtle with any vessel for such necessaries, or +temperate luxuries, that may be required by the establishment. + +The turtle season here, is considered to be the interval between +Christmas and Midsummer-day, during which time parties are stationed +almost every night on each of the beaches,[44] where the turtle are +known to land, for the purpose of depositing their eggs; upon these +occasions, they turn as many as are likely to be required for the use of +the establishment, until the following season, and also for the shipping +that may call for them; these are kept in the pond, to be taken out at +pleasure: two pounds of turtle is allowed as a substitute for one pound +of ordinary meat.[45] The Wide-awakes, or Kitty-wakes,[46] as sailors +call them, are also very numerous, both on the rocks and plains, in the +laying and breeding season: and, consequently, an immense number of eggs +are deposited, which are much used by the persons on the island. + +We returned on board for the night, to avoid putting the officers to an +inconvenience for our accommodation. + +_Thursday, 26_.--We went on shore to breakfast, landing in a smaller +boat to-day than yesterday, namely, a four-oared gig instead of a larger +one with six, and yet we landed with more ease. About eleven o'clock, I +accompanied Colonel Nichols and Captain Owen on horseback to visit the +Colonel's residence on Green Mountain, distant about six miles from +Regent Square. The roads have been made with a great deal of labour +under the direction of the Colonel, and considering circumstances, there +is no little credit due to that officer for his indefatigable exertions, +and perseverance in accomplishing what would, to ordinary minds, have +appeared impracticable. When about four miles from Regent Square we +arrived at Dampier's Spring, a stream of water that might pass through +an ordinary sized goose quill, and if allowed to spread over the surface +of the ground in some climates, would evaporate as quickly as it flowed, +but here, conducted into a cask, it affords no inconsiderable portion of +the supply at Regent's Square. It is sent down in barrels on the backs +of asses, or mules, and served out by measure, according to the quantity +procured. There were a few habitations near this spring, cut out of the +solid rock, for the residence of soldiers who were stationed here, with +their wives and families. From Dampier's Spring we continued to ascend +about two miles further, when we arrived at the Colonel's dwelling +(which consisted merely of a ground floor), from whence all sterility +ceases, the space between it and the top of the mountain being covered +with a fine rich mould, partly cultivated with sweet potatoes, and +partly covered with wild herbage, amongst which the Cape gooseberry is +very abundant; this is an agreeable subacid fruit, pleasant to eat when +ripe, and useful in a green state for tarts, &c. + +Before dinner I took an opportunity of walking to the top of the hill, +which is the highest on the island, being 800 feet above the Colonel's +house, and 2,849 feet above the level of the sea. + +After dinner Lieutenant Badgeley, Dr. Burn, and Lieutenant Carrington of +the Marines, left us to return by way of Regent Square, to the Eden. +These three gentlemen have all, since that time, paid the debt of nature +on board that ship. I accompanied Mr. Butter round the side of the +Mountain to the Black Rock, beneath which stretched a wide and deep +valley. In this walk we passed various spots set apart for the +cultivation of vegetables, to which the soil is exceedingly favourable, +while the deposition of night dews, with light showers, and a genial +climate, all combine to render vegetation here peculiarly luxuriant, so +that the inhabitants are not only enabled to reserve an ample supply for +themselves, but to spare a small quantity for most of the ships that +call at the island. Colonel Nichols informed us that he had 1000 lbs. +weight of vegetables, principally the sweet potatoe, ready to dispose of +at this period. We had at dinner green peas, and French beans, besides +the more common vegetables, likewise turnip-radishes with our cheese. In +fact all European vegetables may be, and most of them are, produced +here. The greatest range of the thermometer on the mountain in the +winter months, which are August, September, October, and November, is +from 58 deg. to 70 deg., and in the summer from 70 deg. to 82 deg., +consequently the greatest range of the whole year is only 24 deg. being +from 58 deg. to 82 deg. F. The sweet potatoe, (of which there are a great +many and very large[47]) was first brought here from Africa; the best +method of cultivating them is found to be from shoots. + +The following are the names and number of domestic animals now on the +island, which is about 30 miles in circumference. + + 70 head of oxen. + 60 sheep. (principally from Africa.) + 600 goats. + 8 horses. + 4 mules. + 27 asses. + +There are likewise the dogs lately imported, and a few rabbits from the +Cape of Good Hope, which have been turned loose in the valleys to breed; +it is feared, however, that the cats will destroy the young rabbits, if +they do not the old ones. Two red-legged partridges have also been +brought from the Cape, and there are a few pigeons, likewise the English +linnet in a wild state. + +_Friday, 27_.--Fine morning with a few refreshing showers. Thermometer +at 6 A.M. 70 deg. F. Soon after breakfast we left the Colonel's house to +return to Regent's Square, but we walked nearly a mile before we mounted +our horses. The officers of the Establishment invited all Captain Owen's +party, and their Colonel, to dine with them to-day at their mess, which +consists of Lieutenants Evans and Barns, R.M. Mr. Mitchell, Surgeon, and +Mr. Trescot, Agent-victualler to the African squadron. + +[Illustration: THE ISLAND OF ASCENSION] + +The population of the island at that time was 192 souls,[48] all +Europeans, except 40 liberated Africans, and they were then deficient of +10: the Government having allowed the number of 50 to assist in carrying +on the required improvements and other employments, which consists of +road-making, erecting buildings, gardening, conveying water, &c. &c. The +officers of the Establishment, superintend the working parties, however, +these only work four days in the week, Wednesday and Saturday being +allowed them for fishing,[49] cleaning their clothes, and other private +purposes, while the Sunday is of course kept holy. Their working hours +are from daylight until eight o'clock, when they are allowed +three-quarters of an hour for breakfast; after which they return to +labour till eleven, they then rest until three o'clock; from which time +they work until sunset. This arrangement, which throws open to repose +the hottest portion of the day, is highly to be approved of in a warm +climate. + +At 7 o'clock we took leave of the Colonel and his officers, to return +on board the Eden. When we got under weigh, and made sail out of +Ascension-roads, for Sierra Leone, steering N.N.E. + +In the year 1801, when I belonged to H.M.S. Cambrian, (the Honourable +Captain Legge,) on our return voyage from St. Helena, we passed so near +this island, that we sent a 24-pound shot among the hills, and saw it +scatter the dust around the spot where it fell, but we did not send a +boat on shore, for we knew it was then uninhabited, and our Commander +was not disposed to lose his time in turning turtle, while he might be +more gallantly employed chasing the enemy. We merely fired as a signal +to any one that might have been left on the island by accident, for on +the preceding year H.M.S. Endymion took on board the crew of a brig that +had been wrecked on the island: and the celebrated navigator, Dampier, +was also cast away here in the Roebuck, of 12 guns, on his return voyage +from New Holland. Little could I have imagined at the time of my first +visit, that I should ever have landed here, under my present peculiar +circumstances, or that after so many years I should find so much to +interest me in a place that presented nothing to my recollection but +utter desolation. The alteration in the island was indeed curious, and I +am happy to learn, that the improvements still proceed with at least +equal energy, and proportionate success. Since my last visit, I am told +that, the inhabitants have greatly increased their facilities of +obtaining, and preserving supplies of fresh water, an achievement which +must necessarily add much to their daily comfort. + +_Saturday, 28_.--Nothing material occurred on this or the following day, +for we glided along pleasantly with a fresh trade-wind, varying only a +couple of points from S.E. to E.S.E. until the morning of + +_Monday, 30_.--When the wind got much lighter and we were afraid of +losing the trade altogether, for although at this season of the year it +prevails much further from the Southern towards the Northern Hemisphere, +yet we can seldom hope to carry it beyond the equinoctial line, where we +expect to get into what is very characteristically called "the +variables": at one season of the year, these winds are very light and +changeable, with frequent calms and occasional thunderstorms and +waterspouts: at another season of the year, the weather is dark, gloomy, +squally with occasional calms and much rain, until we advance to 12 deg. or +14 deg. N. latitude, where we usually fall in with the N.E. trade wind, +however, ships are sometimes fortunate enough on leaving the Southern +Hemisphere for the Northern, particularly in the months of May, June, +and July, to carry the S.E. trade to the northward of the line, even +until they fall in with the N.E. trade. + +Between three and four this afternoon, we crossed the equinoctial line, +at which time I took an affidavit before Captain Owen for my half-pay. I +was induced to do this from the novelty of the circumstance, as well as +a preparatory measure in case I should have an opportunity of forwarding +a letter to England. Lat. at noon, for the last three days, 5 deg. +39'.--2 deg. 25'. and 0 deg. 13'. S. + +_Tuesday, July, 1_.--There was a great change in the weather to-day. The +wind was more unsettled, the clouds were heavy, and there was a general +haze around the horizon. These were clear indications of our approaching +the coast of Africa in the rainy season; there had also been a heavy dew +last night, which aggravated these gloomy appearances. At sunset, we saw +a vessel a few miles a-head of us, which we came up with in about an +hour, she proved to be a Dutch galliot, from the island of Mayo, bound +to Rio de Janeiro, with half a cargo of salt. + +Immediately on receiving this intelligence, I requested the boarding +officer to engage a passage for me to the Brazils, which being +accomplished, I took leave of my kind and respected friend Captain Owen, +after having been his guest for nearly twelve months; during which time +I had experienced an unvarying series of unequalled attentions, a +consideration for my interest and pursuits highly flattering, and had +derived, from his conversation and society, an acquisition of truly +valuable information; for which I desire to acknowledge myself deeply +and gratefully his debtor. + +---------- +[39] There are a good many runaway slaves living at the south end of the +island, quite independent of all the Portuguese authorities. + +[40] It should be explained, that these vessels are permitted to trade +for slaves to the southward of the line; but are liable to capture, if +found to the northward of the line with slaves on board. However, they +frequently expose themselves to the risk, in a desperate spirit of +speculation. + +[41] Wild parsley is very abundant in the valleys, besides chickweed, +thistles, wild mint, and other herbs. + +[42] The guinea fowl feed principally on crickets and chickweed. + +[43] Bull terriers. + +[44] It is observed, a short time previous to the turtle season, that +the sand rises on shore, near the beach, considerably higher than at +other times. + +[45] The turtle, generally, weigh about 400 lbs.; and, sometimes, as +much as 700 lbs. + +[46] A small species of gull. + +[47] Some have grown so large as to weigh 5 or 6 pounds. + +[48] About 50 of this number live at Dampier's Spring. + +[49] They have boats belonging to the Establishment, which are on these +days provided with hooks and lines, and sent off those parts of the +island where there is known to be good fishing ground. + + + + +CHAP. XIV. + +Dutch Galliot--An Agreeable Companion--Strange Associates--Melancholy +Account of St. Jago--Beauty in Tears--Manner of obtaining Salt, and +Water at Mayo--Pleasures of a Galliot in a heavy Sea--Dutch +Miscalculation--Distances--An Oblation to Neptune and Amphitrite (new +style)--Melange, Devotion and _Gourmanderie_--Curious Flying-fish-- +Weather--Whales--Cape Pigeons--Anchor off Rio Janeiro--Distant +Scenery--Custom-house Duties--Hotel du Nord--Rua Dircito--Confusion +thrice confounded--Fruit Girls, not fair, but coquettish--Music +unmusical, or Porterage, with an Obligato Accompaniment--Landing-places-- +An Evening Walk--A bad Cold--Job's Comforter--Shoals of Visitors-- +Captain Lyon's Visit, and Invitation to the Author--Naval Friends-- +Packet for England--English Tailors--Departure for Gongo Soco--The +Party--Thoughts on Self-Denial--Uncomfortable Quarters--Changes of +Atmosphere--Freedom by Halves; or _left_-handed Charity--Serra Santa +Anna--Valley of Botaes--The Ferreirinho, or little Blacksmith--Dangerous +Ascent of the Alto de Serra--Pest, an Universal Disease--An English +Settler--Rio Paraheiba--Valencia--Curiosity of the People--Unceremonious +Inquisitors--Comforts of a Beard--Castor-Oil for burning--Rio Preta-- +Passports--Entrance to the Mine Country--Examination of Baggage-- +Attention without Politeness--The Green-eyed Monster, "An old Man +would be wooing" + + +At eight o'clock, I found myself and baggage on board the Dutchman, +under all sail, for Rio de Janeiro. I had the good fortune to meet with +a countryman, in a fellow voyager, who proved to be excellent society, +and who, consequently, became my principal companion, for although the +captain and his mates were good sailors, and honest men, they were +unskilled in the polite usages of society, and as the best linguist +amongst them had but a small share of broken English, much conversation +with them was out of the question. + +Mr. Fearon (my fellow passenger), having left England, some time since, +for Sierra Leone, the vessel in which he sailed, had called at St. Jago, +where they found the Consul General for the Cape de Verds, lying +dangerously ill with the fever. Mr. Fearon was solicited to remain and +perform the duties of that office; and a few days after, had the +melancholy task of attending the Consul to his grave, and very shortly +after, of laying the widow by her husband's side. These melancholy +duties being performed, he took upon himself the office of Vice Consul, +until a reply to his report of the Consul's death could be received from +the British Government; but, in the meanwhile, he was himself taken so +ill with the endemic fever, and found it so impossible to regain health +at St. Jago, that it was deemed necessary to send him to the island of +Mayo for change of air; where he attained convalescence, but still +continued much debilitated when we met on board the galliot. The +Consul's sister at St. Jago, a most accomplished and attractive young +lady, and whose acquaintance I had had the pleasure of making there at +her brother's house, had also been, I learned, taken ill at the same +time; I had, however, the gratification of meeting her afterwards at the +Brazils, as a married lady, both happy and healthful, after she had +surmounted a variety of difficult adventures, and many severe trials of +fortitude, and presence of mind. + +One of my first inquiries, was respecting the manner of preparing the +salt at Mayo, for exportation. I learned, that during the summer a +portion of low-land, near the sea, was inundated, between which and the +sea, the communication being subsequently cut off, the water rapidly +exhaled, leaving the salt in chrystals on the surface of the earth; +these, in due time, were collected in heaps; but as, of course, the +longer they remain, the more concentrated the chrystals become, it is +necessary to observe considerable caution in loading vessels, to select +that portion which has been the longest exposed to evaporation. + +They procure water for the town and shipping at Mayo, by digging a +number of pits (too shallow to deserve the name of wells), near the +beach, between the salt-pan plain, and the sea: they thus collect a +stock of brackish water, in small quantities from each pit: however, in +the interior of the island, they are well supplied with good spring +water. + +_Wednesday, 2_.--We had a fresh trade-wind to-day, which made me feel +the difference between H.M.S. Eden, and this pile-driving galliot: my +sleeping-place too, happened to be at the furthest end of the vessel, +which might be compared to one of the horns of a crescent, and while I +was dancing in the air, others in the centre of the concavity, were +scarcely out of the horizontal line. Fortunately, a very short repose is +sufficient for me, as my bed was not the softest in the world, for as I +had not brought one with me, I was obliged to lie upon an old sail, with +a bag of clothes for a pillow: however, I have no desire to consider +comforts, when I am travelling, lest feather-bed indulgences, and +luxurious appointments, should divert my attention from more useful +objects. The latitude at noon to-day, was 1 deg. 36'. N, and longitude, +16 deg. 28'. W. by the Eden's calculation (the correctness of which I +might venture to swear by, for no ship ever kept a better), being 1 deg. +27'. E. of the galliot's reckoning. + +_Thursday, 3_.--Still a fresh S.E. trade-wind, which enabled us to go a +point free, (S.W. by S.) Noon, lat. 0 deg. 14'. S. lon. 17 deg. 29'. W. +Having crossed the equinoctial line this forenoon, I have passed it for +the third time, in as many distinct voyages, within a fortnight, namely, + +1st. From Prince's Island, to Ascension. + +2nd. From Ascension towards Sierra Leone. + +3rd. From on board the Eden, on her way to Sierra Leone, more than 2 deg. +north of the line, to Rio de Janeiro. + +There being no one on board the galliot, who had ever crossed the +equinoctial line before, except the chief mate, Mr. Fearon, and myself, +the usual ceremony of shaving, &c. was dispensed with, but to prevent +the circumstance passing entirely uncommemorated, Mr. Fearon presented +us with some champagne, as an oblation to Neptune and his spouse, +Amphitrite. About sunset, seven flying-fish fell on board, which we had +for supper, and found them very delicious. + +_Friday, 4_.--Still a moderate S.E. trade, lat. 1 deg. 56'. S. lon. 18 +deg. 16'. W. Our mode of living is as follows:--Between six and seven +in the morning, a cup of coffee is brought to us; at half-past seven, the +whole crew assemble in the cabin to prayers; immediately after which, we +all go to breakfast, ours in the cabin, consisting of boiled barley, of +which the captain and his mates partake freely, mixing with each +portion, a large table spoonful of butter; this is followed by tea, cold +meat, and biscuit, and concluded with well buttered biscuits and cheese. +At eleven, coffee again; and so soon after noon as the ship's place is +ascertained by the reckoning, a glass of wine is presented to each +person,[50] followed by dinner. At half-past three, tea; and at six, tea +again, but combined with supper. At half-past seven, the crew again +assemble to prayers; after which, all not employed on watch, retire to +rest, with the exception of Mr. Fearon and myself, who were neither such +_gourmands_, nor such sleepers as our Dutch friends.--They, however, +were very moderate in their use of ardent spirits, or fermented liquors; +they were also very moderate smokers, and seldom introduced smoking in +the cabin. + +This evening, three more flying-fish fell on board, one of which, having +four wings instead of two, I preserved in spirits. Mr. Fearon informed +me, that he had previously remarked this variation in the species, +which, however, does not appear to be common, it having, as I think, +escaped general notice. + +_Saturday, 5_.--Saw a large ship to-day standing in the same direction +with ourselves, but she did not approach us. At noon, Lat. 3 deg. 52'. S. +Lon. 19 deg. 18'. W. + +_Sunday, 6_.--Fresh breezes and cloudy, with heavy squalls, and rain at +times; four more flying-fish for breakfast. The sea getting up to-day +made the vessel very uneasy. Lat. 5 deg. 47. S. Lon. 20 deg. 12. W. + +_Monday, 7_.--Strong breezes and cloudy, with a heavy sea. Course +continues the same, and but little variation in the wind, excepting +force. Lat. 7 deg. 42'. S. + +_Tuesday, 8_.--The wind moderated to-day, and the weather cleared up. +Only two flying-fish for breakfast, which proved a sufficient relish for +the passengers, but they would not have gone far towards satisfying our +Dutch messmates. Lat. at noon, 9 deg. 34'. S. Lon. 22 deg. 17'. W. + +_Wednesday, 9_.--Breeze freshened again to-day. Lat. 11 deg. 9'. S. Lon. +23 deg. 36'. W. + +_Thursday, 10_.--Wind increased to a very strong breeze, with a good +deal of sea, which made the vessel roll about and plunge in a most +delightful manner. Lat. 13 deg. 13'. S. Lon. 25 deg. 7'. W. + +_Friday, 11_.--Very squally weather, with a heavy swell. Lat. at noon, +15 deg. 9'. S. Lon. 25 deg. 7'. W. + +_Saturday, 12_.--Fresh breezes and cloudy. Lat. 17 deg. 9'. S. Lon. +27 deg. 46. W. + +_Sunday, 13_.--Wind and weather moderated to-day. Lat. 18 deg. 55'. S. +Lon. 29 deg. 48'. W. Saw a few whales playing about. + +_Monday, 14_.--Fresh breezes and very fine weather. At noon, Lat. 20 deg. +44'. S. Lon. 31 deg. 42'. W. Cape Frio, S. 76 deg. W. 564 miles. + +_Tuesday, 15_.--Moderate and fine: wind N.E. Lat. 22 deg. 2'. S. Lon. +33 deg. 22'. W. Cape Frio, S. 82 deg. W. 472 miles. Afternoon, light +breezes and variable, from N. to E. + +_Wednesday, 16_.--Fresh breezes and cloudy, with squalls at times. Wind +N.E. to E. A single flying-fish for breakfast. Lat. 22 deg. 23'. S. Lon. +35 deg. 9'. W. Cape Frio, S. 84 deg. W. 364 miles. + +_Thursday, 17_.--Fresh breezes, and cloudy until noon. Afternoon, +moderate and fine. Lat. 22 deg. 34'. S. Lon. 34 deg. 7'. W. Found a sore +throat coming on, accompanied with fever, the effect of a severe cold +caught by remaining on deck late at night. I had also frequently got wet +during the blowing weather, by the sea breaking over the vessel: and, +unfortunately, had not recommenced wearing flannel, having abandoned the +use of it at Fernando Po, in consequence of the exhaustion it produced +by the excessive sultriness of the weather. + +_Friday, 18_.--Two Cape pigeons were hovering over the vessel to-day; +they were the first we had seen; and it is very possible, that they had +recently deserted some vessel which they had followed from the Cape of +Good Hope. They are a small sea-fowl, about the size of a pigeon, from +which resemblance they derive their name. They are to be seen in great +numbers off the Cape, as well as in the higher southern latitudes. + +At noon, Lat. 22 deg. 34'. S. Lon. 38 deg. 27'. W. Cape Frio, S. 82 +deg. W. 200 miles. Soon after noon, the discoloration of the sea +indicated the proximity of land, although, by our reckoning, it should +have been far distant; however, we saw it at sunset, bearing N.W. by N. +about 15 miles, which we supposed to be the Cape St. Thomas, when we +sounded in 33 fathoms sand, with black and white specks. Stood to the +southward for the night. + +_Saturday, 19_.--Soon after daylight, we saw the land. At noon, Cape +Frio, W.N.W. about 12 miles. Lat. 23 deg. 7'. S. Lon. 39 deg. 25'. W. +At two in the afternoon, we passed a warlike looking schooner under +Brazilian colours. At sunset. Cape Frio, E.N.E. about eight miles. +Continued our course for the harbour of Rio de Janeiro till midnight, +when we hove to for daylight. + +_Sunday, 20_.--At daylight, we made all sail with a light breeze, for +the harbour of Rio de Janeiro. At two in the afternoon, sounded in forty +fathoms; Sugar Loaf Hill bearing N.W. At eight in the evening, we came +to an anchor abreast of the forts, at the entrance of the harbour.[51] + +_Monday, 21_.--At daylight, we found the most splendid scenery open to +our view: a clear atmosphere, and a sky so serene, that the distant +mountains blended softly into the heavens, while the picturesque +grouping of objects in the vicinity, completed a beautiful _coup +d'oeil_, which it is difficult to imagine, and scarcely possible to be +surpassed. The wind and tide being against us until two o'clock, the +sea-breeze then setting in, we got under weigh, to go into the harbour, +but, at four o'clock, the Portuguese authorities obliged us to come to +an anchor in the outer harbour, abreast of Fort Santa Cruz, in 22 +fathoms water. + +H.M.S. Blossom, Captain Beechy, dropped anchor here this afternoon, on +his return voyage from his explorating expedition in Baring Straits, +when she immediately saluted the flag of Sir Robert Otway, which was +flying on board H.M.S. Ganges. H.M.B. Chanticleer, Captain Forster, was +also lying in the harbour; an agreeable _rencontre_, I should imagine, +for Captains Beechy and Forster, who were companions on the North Pole +expedition; no small difference in climate and scenery from their +present place of meeting. Captain Peters of our galliot (the Young +Nicholas) and Mr. Fearon went on shore in the evening, but I was too ill +with my cold, even to venture exposing myself to the night air, or to +remove until I had secured a comfortable lodging; however, on the +following afternoon I landed, but without my baggage, as it was detained +until special permission for its removal could be received from the +Custom-house; where every packet was examined and paid for, before I was +permitted to take it to my lodgings. + +Mr. Fearon and myself took up our quarters at the Hotel du Nord near the +Palace, at one end of the Rua Direito (or strait street), which runs +parallel with the sea. This is the broadest and best street in Rio de +Janeiro, and as the Custom-house is situated in the centre, with the +Palace and Dock-yard flanking the extremities, this street is an immense +thoroughfare, especially as all articles of merchandise, not excepting +the slaves, or any other object of traffic imported, or exported, must +pass through it, on, or from, its way to the Custom-house. + +But, as though the confusion necessarily attendant upon this continual +bustle were insufficient, each group of porters as they pass along with +their heavy loads, chant their peculiar national songs, for the double +purpose of timing their steps and concentrating their attention on their +employment. To these sounds are added the variety of cries, uttered in +an endless alternation of tones, by the pretty negress fruit venders, +who, smartly dressed, and leering and smiling in their most captivating +manner endeavour so to attract the attention of the sons of Adam. These, +with the gabbling of foreigners, hurrying on their several missions of +pleasure or of business, the chattering of slaves waiting to be hired, +and the occasional expostulations of those who are unceremoniously +jostled from the pavement by the rude encounter of bales of goods, keep +up altogether a din of discordance perfectly distracting. + +There are three principal landing-places at the city of Rio, one in +front of the Palace, one at the Custom-House, and one at the Naval-yard; +where there are flights of stone steps for the convenience of the +public. I took a walk in the evening with my friend Mr. Fearon to the +Rua Pescadores (Fisherman's street, one of the many that branch from the +Rua Direito), to find out Dr. Dickson, a naval surgeon settled in this +city, for whom I had a letter of introduction, from my friend Captain +Owen. He was not at home, but we were received by his partner, who +appeared much concerned at my state of health, and advised me to return +home and not think of leaving the house again until Dr. Dickson saw me, +which he promised should be early on the following morning. I believed +my catarrh had encreased to pneumonia, and the medical gentleman +appeared to consider the symptoms much more seriously than I did myself. + +_Wednesday, 23_.--My cough was much worse to-day, indeed it had become +so troublesome that I was almost exhausted, especially as I dared not +partake of any stimulating food, to support my strength. Neither could I +obtain repose either by night or by day, indeed I found the horizontal +position less endurable than any other. I, however, received in my bed +room a number of gentlemen who called upon me. Among these was Captain +Lyon of the royal navy, who had charge of a very large mining +establishment in the interior, under the title of the Imperial British +Brazilian Mining Company, at Gongo Soco. On hearing my intention to +travel in the Brazils, this gentleman not only invited me to visit him, +but also to accompany him to his establishment, to which he was about to +return in a few days. This invitation was perfectly irresistible, and I +promised to avail myself of it, if it were possible for me to sit on +horseback at the time of his departure. This hope induced me to be +doubly careful in promoting the measures judged advisable for my +recovery. Captain Duntz, and his friend Mr. Edward Walker, one of the +Directors of the Mining Company, also called with Captain Lyon; as well +as Messrs. Luddington, Power, &c. in the course of the day. + +_Thursday, 24_.--Captain Lyon most obligingly invited me to join a +party, consisting of Mr. Gordon, our Minister, Captains Beechy and +Forster, &c. &c. on a most interesting excursion to the Corcovada +Mountain on the following morning, for the purpose of measuring its +height; but I was most reluctantly obliged to decline it; first, because +it would have been too trying for my cough; and secondly, because I +wished to reserve all my strength for my journey into the interior. + +_Saturday, 26_.--Captain Duntz paid me another visit, bringing his +friend Sir T. Thompson of the Cadmus with him. Captain Lyon and his +friend Mr. Edward Walker also favoured me in like manner. + +_Monday, 28_.--The packet sailed for England to-day, calling at Bahia +and Pernambuco on her way. Captain Lyon's friend Mr. Edward Walker went +passenger in her. I heard that our journey into the interior was +fortunately deferred for a day or two. My friend Lieutenant E. Belcher +of H.M.S. Blossom, called on me to-day, as did several other gentlemen. + +_Tuesday, 29_.--Captain Lyon called to inform me that he had determined +on proceeding to the interior the following day; I therefore busied +myself in preparing for the journey. Among the few articles of which I +stood in need, were a jacket and pantaloons, which I was obliged to +purchase, ready made, at a store of English slop-goods, the English +tailors here being too consequential to accommodate any one on an +emergency. + +_Wednesday, 30_.--I took leave of my friend and fellow passenger Mr. +Fearon, to join Captain Lyon at Mr. Raynsford's in Rua Pescadores, from +whose house we were to set out. Every thing being ready about noon, we +mounted our mules, and formed a very respectable cavalcade, our party +for the interior consisting of Captain Lyon, Mr. Sharpe, Mr. A. Walker, +and myself, with a train of loaded mules, we were also favoured by the +escort of Messrs. Raynsford, and Lewis, on our first day's march. The +latter gentleman is a Prussian Jew, and has amassed a considerable +property in this country by dealing in precious stones, in addition to +which traffic, he has a general store at Gongo Soco. He has also a +brother a dealer in jewels who lives at Villa Rica. How is it that other +men cannot succeed so well as those of the Jewish persuasion? Is it that +their intelligence, penetration, and discrimination, are superior to +other men? Or is it solely owing to their less scrupulous integrity? My +own conviction has always been, that want of success in any particular +pursuit or profession, has arisen in most cases, out of an absence of +that firmness which enables a man to reject the pleasures of the world, +and the world's frivolities, for the sake of the one purpose to which he +should rightly devote all his energies. When men practise a rigid course +of self-denial in this respect; immolating all vain desires upon the +altar of science, or of interest, they seldom fail to attain the utmost +point of their ambition. + +I found myself very weak, and much reduced by the low regimen which I +had necessarily observed during the violence of my inflammatory cough. A +blister had also been kept open on my breast during the whole time of my +sojourn at Rio de Janeiro, this had only received its first dressing +just before I mounted my mule, and I had not got clear of the city +before the inflamed state of my chest, so dried up the dressing, that +the irritation produced was like a red hot iron applied to the surface: +this torture I was compelled to endure for more than three hours, before +I could obtain any relief. About four o'clock we arrived at Venda Nova, +or Traja, also known by the name of Willis's, it having been kept by an +Englishman of that name. It was much patronized by the English, who +frequently made excursions of pleasure to this place, distant from Rio +de Janeiro four Brazilian leagues or sixteen English miles. We were well +supplied here with provisions, but our lodgings were of a very inferior +description, all the party, excepting myself, being literally, and +actually, necessitated to exclaim + + "My lodging is on the cold ground." + +The only imitation of a bed-place was considerately resigned to me. It +consisted of a crib in a small room, no larger than a closet; however, +as the horizontal position still continued most distressing to me, a bed +of down could not have procured me repose, for I do not think I ceased +coughing for three consecutive minutes the whole night. And it was no +small aggravation to my misery, to know that I was the means of +disturbing all my friends in the next apartment. Under these +circumstances, I heard the summons for preparation, at a very early +hour, with infinite satisfaction, and, ill as I was, though the morning +was extremely raw and cold, I rejoiced to find that we were all in the +saddle before daylight (half-past five)--Mr. Raynsford, on his return to +Rio de Janeiro, and our own party for the Mine Country. Soon after noon, +we arrived at Manganga, a distance of four leagues (16 miles), having +passed over a very level country, where the heat of the day was equal in +intensity, to the cold of the morning; the thermometer being, at one +time, upwards of 90 deg. F. This change was to me delightful, as heat +agrees with me at all times, and more particularly while suffering from +an indisposition, the prevalent symptom of which is a sensation of +chilliness. I found my strength very inadequate to bear much fatigue. +Our accommodation, however, was better to-night than the preceding one, +and Captain Lyon being well known on the road, acquainted with the +language, and a man of very agreeable manners, we found every one ready +to do their utmost to serve him, especially the fair sex. In speaking of +the fair sex--or rather, in this case, the female, but not fair--a +pretty young negress came to solicit charity, for the purpose of +enabling her to make up a sum of money to purchase half her freedom, the +other half having been left as a legacy, by her deceased master. This is +doing things by halves with a witness: who would have thought of such +piece-meal generosity, except a thrifty Brazilian Portuguese. + +_Friday, August 1_.--Soon after daylight, we set off again with our +whole party: and at eleven, we rested a short time to refresh ourselves +at a venda,[52] which stands at the foot of a rugged and precipitous +range, called the Serra Santa Anna (or St. Ann's Mountain), which we +afterwards passed over, and arrived, about three o'clock, at a +respectable farm-house, in the village of Botaes, where we remained for +the night, having travelled four leagues to-day. Captain Lyon called my +attention this afternoon, to the note of a bird in a wood, when passing +over the mountain, named the Ferreirinho (little Blacksmith), from the +resemblance of the note to the ringing sound of a smart blow from a +small hammer on an anvil, terminating in a sharp whistle. + +_Saturday, 2_.--Notwithstanding the inconvenience I had suffered during +the journey of the two preceding days, I felt an increase of strength, +and an abatement of my cough. Fortunately for me, we passed the night in +a warm valley, and did not start this morning till nine o'clock, from +which time our journey over the mountain proved very pleasant, for it +must be remembered, that this is the winter season in this country; and +that the coldness of the nights continues unabated until the rising sun +begins to exert its influence. We left Mr. A. Walker, with the loaded +mules, to follow; Capt. Lyon being anxious to proceed at a quicker rate. +Almost immediately after leaving the farm, we began to ascend the Alto +de Serra, where, in some places, a false step of the mule would have +precipitated both the animal and its rider into one of the fearful +chasms that occasionally yawned beneath our path. We were frequently +placed in very awkward situations, for we met with several caravans of +loaded mules, winch were generally conducted by the voices of the +muleteers, who dash on at a fearless rate; and, in some of these passes, +at the imminent risk of overturning the travellers whom chance places in +their way: I was frequently obliged to jerk my foot suddenly out of the +stirrup, and allow my leg to pass behind on the back of the animal on +which I rode, to avoid these unceremonious assaults; while, on the +opposite side, I was pressed against the rugged surface of an +overhanging ridge. + +When we arrived at the top of the mountain, we made a halt at a +blacksmith's shop, for the purpose of getting Captain Lyon's mule bled, +the muleteer having declared that he had the pest; but the word _pest_ +appertains here to all sorts of animal ailments; for example, there was +a fowl sick at this place, and on asking what was the matter with it, we +were told that it had the pest; the fowl's disease proved to be the pip. +Indeed, this convenient word pest, was indiscriminately applied to all +diseases which the people did not understand. It reminded me of La +Fleur, in the Sentimental Journey, who, when he could not get his horse +to pass the dead ass, cried "Pest!" as the _dernier resort_ of his +vocabulary of exclamations. In the afternoon, we made a short halt at a +venda within twelve miles of Botaes, to refresh ourselves, which was +kept by an Englishman named John M'Dill, who had formerly lived at Gongo +Soco with Captain Tregoning. He had recently settled here on a small +estate, which he was clearing for a coffee plantation. About sunset, we +crossed the Rio Paraheiba, over a long wooden bridge, about a mile +beyond which we put up for the night, where we had but very indifferent +accommodations. We had ridden five leagues, or twenty miles, to-day. + +_Sunday, 3_.--We set off at five this morning, and arrived at the town +of Valencia at nine, where we stopped for breakfast. Nearly all the +inhabitants of the town collected to comment upon us, and it so +happened, that I was the principal object of curiosity in the whole +group: this unlooked for distinction, arose from two circumstances, +first, my wearing a long beard; and secondly, my blindness. These +peculiarities produced numberless exclamations, as, "How could I travel? +Why did I travel? Why did I wear a long beard? Was I a Padre?--or, a +Missionary?" and so forth, until they became so pressing that we were +glad to get housed, with closed doors, to keep these troublesome +inquisitors at a respectful distance. + +I can well understand, that a simple people, whose experience is limited +to their own habits, and who have never had an opportunity of +inter-mixing with other nations, must have been startled by the novelty +of a beard; but their astonishment at the sight of a board, was not +greater than mine, on discovering that they were destitute of an +appendage, which, in the torid zone, is at once an article of luxury and +utility. The people of the East invariably wear beards, not merely as a +national custom, but as a matter of necessity; and, for my part, I can +testify, that I found it an indispensable protection to the neck, and +the lower part of the face: after a day's journey, the luxury of +immerging the face in cold water, leaving the beard half dry, was most +refreshing, the evaporation producing a very reviving and agreeable +effect. In addition to my beard, I had the farther protection of a broad +brimmed straw-hat, the crown of which was deeply wadded with cotton +wool, and which completely screened me from the piercing rays of a +tropical sun. + +Having occasion for some castor-oil, I sent to an apothecary to procure +it, which amused the people exceedingly, who declared their astonishment +at our simplicity, in sending to a doctor for an article so common here, +that it is generally used for lamp-oil, and to obtain which, it is only +necessary to gather the beans from the plant, which grows wildly and +luxuriantly in this country, and express the juice in the ordinary way. + +Soon after leaving Valencia, we passed a venda, kept by another +countryman of ours, but we did not stop there, being anxious to reach +the town of Preta before night. About sunset we arrived at Rio Preta (or +Black River), passing over a long wooden bridge to the town, where we +waited for the authorities, to have our passports, &c. examined, which +we had previously procured at Rio, from the Minister of the Interior. We +had now entered the Minas Geraes, or Mine Country, the opposite bank of +the river forming the boundary of the province of Rio de Janeiro. Every +package was examined, and a duty demanded for each article of +merchandize, &c. excepting our personal baggage; after this ceremony, we +proceeded to a house, where they were accustomed to receive, I cannot +say accommodate, travellers, for its appointments and arrangements, were +neither elegant nor convenient; and the host, an old man with a young +wife, was by no means civil: attentive he was, to the most minute point +of etiquette, and somewhat more attentive than agreeable, for he watched +us with a most pertinacious vigilance, in order that we might have no +opportunity of conversing with our pretty hostess, whom he closely +followed about with looks of angry jealousy, while she prepared our +supper. It was truly pitiable to observe the misery the old dotard +endured, every time his wife entered our apartment, constantly +fidgetting at her elbow, and scrutinizing, suspiciously, every look that +passed between her and her guests. His fears served us for a jest, +however, and produced a vein of jocularity, that reconciled us to our +earthen flooring, upon which some of our party were doomed to seek +repose for that night. + +We had made the longest journey to-day of any since we left Rio, having +travelled twenty-eight miles. This is also the largest town we entered, +since leaving Rio, and had once been a place of considerable importance. + +---------- +[50] This was a very pleasant, light, sweet wine, made at Tours, and +which the captain procured at Nantes. + +[51] It is worthy of remark, that, notwithstanding the immense number of +sharks in the harbour, the inhabitants are not deterred from bathing; +these animals being so abundantly supplied with food from the offal of +a large and populous city, as to be divested of their natural +ferocity:--accidents caused by them, are absolutely unknown here, +although they are frequently seen swimming near, and even among the +persons bathing in the harbour. + +[52] This is a shop, or store, by the road-side, where aqua-dent +(spirits made in the country, and generally strongly flavoured with +aniseed) and sometimes wine can be procured, with provisions, and a few +other common necessaries. + + + + +CHAP. XV. + +Advantages of early Travelling--Funelle--"A Traveller stopped at a +Widow's Gate"--Bright Eyes and Breakfast--Smiles and Sighs--The Fish +River--Cold Lodgings--Fowl Massacre--Bad Ways--Gigantic Ant-hills--The +Campos--Insect Warriors--Insinuating Visitors (Tick)--The Simpleton-- +Bertioga--A Drunkard--Cold Shoulders--Mud Church--Feasting and Fasting; +or, the Fate of Tantalus--Method in a Slow March--Gentlemen Hungry and +Angry--No "Accommodation for Man or Horse"--A Practical Bull--Curtomi-- +Hospitable Treatment at Grandie--Horse-dealer--A "Chance" Purchase-- +Bivouac--Mule Kneeling--Sagacious Animal--Quilos--A Mist--Gold-washing +--Ora Branca--Hazardous Ascent of the Serra D'Ora Banca--Topaz District +--A Colonel the Host--Capoa--Jigger-hunters--Mineralogical Specimens-- +Mortality of Animals--Pasturage--Account of Ora Preta--Gold Essayed-- +Halt--Journey resumed--Arrival at Gongo Soco + + +_Monday, August 4, 1828_.--Our muleteers had no small trouble to collect +their animals in readiness for us to start at the appointed time (four +in the morning); indeed, they had been full two hours beating about the +bush to get them together. Fortunately, however, these men go to rest so +early, that they think little of getting up in the middle of the night, +to collect and load their mules, which is a common occurrence, as an +early start is desirable for both man and beast, because two hours +travelling before sunrise, is not half so fatiguing as one hour after +it; the muleteers are also glad to promote any measure that will enable +them to complete their day's journey before sunset, that they may get +their supper and go to rest so soon as it is dark, which, in this +tropical region, is always at an early hour. Between nine and ten we +arrived at a venda, called Funelle, where we breakfasted on eggs and +milk, standing at a counter, there being no other apartments in this +small habitation, except the bed-room of a pretty young black-eyed +widow, who was laughing and flirting with our party the whole time we +remained. Having made but a third of our intended day's journey, we were +obliged to tear ourselves away from the interesting widow's +fascinations, greatly to the annoyance of some of my companions, who +would fain have prolonged the pleasure of her agreeable trifling:--but +_malgre_ the Loves and the Cupids, with the accompaniments of beauty's +witcheries, we were obliged to press forward, towards our quarters for +the night, which we proposed to take up at a house called Rosa Gomez, +six leagues from Funelle, and nine from Villa Preta, making thirty-six +miles to-day. About a mile or two before we arrived at Rosa Gomez, we +passed the Fish River. + +_Tuesday, August 5_.--We endured a very cold and comfortless night in +bad quarters, where, had it not been for the exertions of our own people +who were obliged to knock down a few wretched straggling fowls for our +use, we should not have been able to procure any thing either for +supper, or breakfast, except a disagreeable mess of flour and water. + +The thermometer at daylight this morning was so low as 45 deg. F., which +temperature we all felt keenly, especially as we had nothing but our +cloaks for our night covering, on cold and comfortless cane couches. +However, we did not set off till near eight o'clock, and after the sun +rises, the warmth rapidly increases. We made but a short journey to-day, +of two leagues and a half, for the roads were rugged and precipitous, +and intersected by several abrupt and broken streams, so that we were +obliged to be extremely cautious in our progress, and chary of the +services of our mules. We passed some very large ant-hills to-day, from +eight to twelve feet in height; the summits of which form excellent +arches for the tops of ovens, while slabs cut out of the more solid +parts, serve for the ends and sides. + +_Wednesday, 6_.--We set out at daylight, leaving the woody country +behind us, and entering on the Campos, or Downs, where our annoyances +from the insect tribe commenced. The brushwood here being infested by +Tick and other tormentors, who mercilessly attacked our whole party, +mules included, insinuating themselves imperceptibly into our sleeves +and pantaloons, when burying their heads in our flesh, and feasting on +our blood, they made us acutely sensible of their presence, by the +intolerable irritation they produced: and from which we had no means of +escaping until the hour of disrobing for the night. After travelling +three leagues we stopped at a village called Souza, where we took +breakfast, the comfort of which meal was, however, destroyed, by the +importunate absurdities of an old man, half lunatic, half simpleton. + +After breakfast we proceeded to Bertioga (three leagues and a half), +where we put up for the night. Soon after our arrival, several people +came hastily to Captain Lyon to complain of an Englishman, who was very +drunk, and had been making a great disturbance in their house. On +inquiry, the offender proved to be a blacksmith on his way to Gongo +Soco, he had been engaged by the agent for the Company, and sent off +from Rio, thirty-six days previously, which time he had wasted in +drunkenness and idleness, having only completed forty leagues of his +journey; Captain Lyon consequently ordered him to return to Rio, as the +specimen of ill conduct already given, shewed him to be unworthy of +being received into the Company's service. + +Our accommodations to night were much us usual, mud floors, and our +cloaks for a covering. Total six leagues and a half to-day. + +_Thursday, 7_.--We set off before daylight, which did not agree very +well with me, the morning air being still too keen for my lungs, which, +with a pain in my side, made me very unwell to-day. About noon we +stopped at a farm-house in a village, called Os Ilhos. There was a +church in progress here, the walls of which they were building with mud. +After refreshing ourselves, and our mules, for about an hour, we resumed +our journey toward a large farm, called Baroga, having made 24 miles +to-day. My companions fared sumptuously, as we had brought a turkey with +us from our last resting place, and with the addition of a roasting pig, +it made the grandest feast imaginable, and far exceeded any thing we had +met with since we left Rio de Janeiro; however, it proved a fast to me, +as I was obliged to take medicine, and leave them to their enjoyment. + +Our host and hostess were plain honest good farming people, and appeared +desirous to do every thing they could for Captain Lyon, but for all +that, they could not be roused out of their accustomed methodical +manner, and the preparation of our meal was, to them, a business of +serious delay and labour. + + And all entreaties were vain, + For they'd promise and promise again, + But still go on the same. + +My friends, therefore, were compelled to take policy for their +counsellor, and patience for their remedy. The most provoking part of +the affair was, that they were expected to consider themselves obliged, +by the condescension of their hosts, in undertaking upon any terms to +minister to their necessities: consequently there was no possibility of +giving utterance to any hasty feelings of impatience; no opening for +those little outbreaks of anger so common to hungry gentlemen. These, +might they have been indulged, would have amused, as well as comforted +the sufferers, but unhappy travellers! they were compelled to + + Let _keen hunger_, like a worm in the bud, + Feed on their _inner man_. + +Here, however, our accommodations were quite superior, when compared +with what we had found at other resting-places; indeed they did not +profess to "_accommodate travellers_," an assurance which is I presume +intended to reconcile the guest to such reception as they choose to +give: but if these people are unwilling to "_profess_," they do not +allow their _scruples_ to limit their _expectations_; these are always +directed towards a recompense, which they are just as eager to receive +as those who accord more to the convenience of the stranger. + +Their curiosity is also unparalleled, and when you dismount you are +received with a string of questions; respecting your health. Where you +have been? The news of Rio? Whom you have met on the road? Who are +expected to go up? or down the country? &c. &c. Having obtained all the +information your patience will grant, they at length begin to consider +what provision they can make for you, and generally commence operations +by slaughtering a few fowls, (or sometimes a turkey or a roasting pig;) +then a large pot of water must be boiled to dip the fowls in, by way of +removing the feathers in the most expeditious manner; a practical bull, +for if they plucked the birds the moment they were dead, and before the +body was allowed to cool, the process would be completed in less time +than they could boil the water. After this preparation, they proceed +with their tedious cookery, all of which is conducted in an equally +awkward manner. Sometimes after arriving in the evening, tired and +hungry, three or four hours elapsed, before any knives and forks were +put on the table, or any other visible progress made in the arrangement +of our meal: and not unfrequently my companions gave the matter up in +despair, and resigned themselves to sleep, while all were completely +worn out with waiting, long before the dinner appeared. + +_Friday, 8_.--We set out at daylight, and about ten miles distance, we +stopped a short time at a farm house, named Curtomi; we then proceeded +ten miles further to Grandie. Just before we arrived at this place, +about four miles and a half distant, the road from Rio over the Campos, +and the Caminha Real, or Royal road, from Porta de Estrella meet, +forming one main road from hence into the interior. We stopped at a +large house, which belonged to very civil people, where we were well +lodged, and very hospitably entertained. + +_Saturday, 9_.--We had a comfortable breakfast before we set off this +morning, and I felt much recruited to-day; we had also all the advantage +to be derived from the warm rays of the sun, as we did not start till +near eight o'clock. In the course of our journey this forenoon, we met a +horse dealer with a train of horses, on his way to Rio, when Mr. Sharpe +took a fancy to one, and purchased it for thirty-six milreas, in silver, +something less than five pounds sterling. From being purchased in this +accidental way, I suggested that the animal ought to be named "Chance," +to which his master assented. In consequence of our wishing to avoid a +disagreeable old fellow, who kept a venda on the road side, we proceeded +a short distance beyond his domicile, and having previously provided our +refreshment, we sat down near the bank of a river to partake of it, at +about two o'clock in the afternoon. + +On our journey afterwards, my poor mule was so thirsty, that he ran to a +little stream by the road-side, to drink, but as he could not +conveniently reach it standing, he very quietly went down on his knees, +upon which hint, I, of course, dismounted, until he had finished his +draught. This mule was the most docile, intelligent animal I ever rode, +and it was a knowledge of these good qualities, that induced Captain +Lyon to appropriate him to my use; I was frequently considerably in +advance of the party, without feeling any apprehension about my safety, +from the perfect confidence I reposed in the mule's sagacity. About five +in the afternoon, we arrived at the town of Qualos, where we were well +lodged, had good fare, and where the excellence of the bread was quite +remarkable, being superior to any I had tasted in the Brazils. This town +gives the title to a Marquess, but it is not of any importance in other +respects. + +_Sunday, 10_.--We started long before daylight, and for two or three +hours rode through a mist, as cold and dense as a November one in +England, but after the sun had gained sufficient power to disperse it, +the day was proportionably hot. We this forenoon passed the first +gold-washing place of any consideration, which has, however, long since +been abandoned for others more profitable. About eleven, we arrived at +the village of Ora Branca, so called from the light colour of the gold +procured here, the gravel or sand of every stream, henceforward, +produces a greater or lesser proportion of gold. + +The owner of the house where we refreshed, had a collection of +mineralogical specimens, which interested Captain Lyon very much, he +being himself a collector. At about a league distance, we commenced the +ascent of the Serra D'Ora Branca, which was almost impracticable even +for our mules. It is so steep and difficult, that it is the universal +custom to dismount, to which, I believe, I formed the only exception, an +undertaking of considerable hazard to ride either up, or down, this +mountain. At about a league beyond the summit, on the opposite side, we +entered what is called the Topaz District, where we soon passed many +washings for Topazes, and put up for the night at the celebrated one of +Capoa, where we were not very well entertained, although the proprietor +of this venda was a Colonel in the Brazilian militia. It is the general +custom, while travelling in this country, for the inhabitants to bring +you a panela, or large bowl of hot water, every night, when you are +going to bed, for your feet, and it is usual to have a black man in +attendance, for the purpose of examining the feet, and extracting the +jiggers with a needle, at which operation they are very expert. + +_Monday, 11_.--Although our journey on this day, was only intended to be +three leagues to the imperial city of Ora Preta (Black Gold), the Villa +Rica (Rich City) of the maps, capital of the mining districts, we set +off at daylight, and arrived about ten at the house that is kept for the +use of the Gongo Soco Mining Company. The gold that is collected at the +Gongo Soco mines, is sent from time to time to the mint at this place, +where it is essayed and melted into bars, the government reserving, a +tax of 25 per cent. before it is suffered to be transmitted to Rio. On +leaving Capoa this morning, we visited several mud huts in the village, +and neighbourhood, in search of those mineralogical specimens, which are +commonly known in this country by the name of Raridades. + +During our route, but more especially before we arrived at the Campos, +not a day passed without our meeting droves of oxen and pigs as well +as many troops of loaded mules, with coffee, cotton, sugar, &c. all +proceeding from the interior for Rio; and our olfactory nerves were not +unfrequently assailed by a very offensive odour, arising from dead +animals, principally oxen, among whom there is usually a great mortality +on these journeys, in consequence of excessive fatigue from travelling +500 or 600 miles, as also from the bad and insufficient pasturage they +find on their road. When these unfortunate animals sink down under their +sufferings, they are left to die, and putrify on the spot where they +happen to fall. These cattle are chiefly brought from the Sertao, which +is a wild country beyond the mountains of the gold district, intervening +between it and the diamond district, which is a fine pasture country, +but with few habitations. The term Sertao, however, is general all over +the interior of Brazil, for inland places unredeemed by culture. Ora +Preta is the most considerable town that we have yet met with, and it +owes it respectability and extent to the circumstance of its being the +town residence of the proprietors of gold mines, dealers in precious +stones, &c; and there is an Imperial Mint, with a government essayer +settled here, for the purpose of examining all the gold produced from +the mines, causing it to be melted and stamped, and a duty of 25 per +cent. taken from it for the Government. + +This duty had, a short time previous to my visit, been reduced to 10 per +cent. for Brazilian subjects, the Government, however, continued to +exact 25 per cent, from Gongo Soco, or the Imperial British Brazilian +Mining Company; although, in their charter from the Brazilian +Government, it was understood, if not expressed, that the Company should +be allowed to work their mines on the same terms with the Brazilians, +however advantageous those terms might happen to be: at the time the +charter was granted, the Brazilians paid 25 per cent.; but after their +neglecting several mines, they petitioned the Government for a reduction +of duty, on the plea, that it was too high, to allow them a profit on +their expenses. The Government, upon this application, consented to +receive only ten per cent. from their own subjects, but absolutely +refused to accord to the British Mining Company any reduction of the +original duty. + +Captain Lyon found it necessary to pass a couple of days here, to +transact some business; this proved a seasonable rest, particularly for +our mules, who had been worked fifteen days in succession. + +_Tuesday, August 14_.--We this morning renewed our journey for Gongo +Soco, and immediately on leaving Ora Preta, began to ascend the +Ferreiria (Iron Mountain). After having rode over the top of it for +about six miles, we descended by a very steep and dangerous road, the +bed of a great part of which was composed of ironstone rock: very few +persons ever venture to ride down it; for, in case a mule should lose +its footing, both the animal and its rider would be hurled down a +precipice, so gigantic, that the state of their remains could not even +be ascertained. Our mules were, at times, on their haunches, actually +sliding over the rocky surface of the road, and although Captain Lyon +had travelled this path several times, he had never ventured to ride +down it before: but not knowing any better way to manage me and my mule, +than by allowing us to follow him mounted, down the hill, he most kindly +braved the danger for my sake, and I resigned myself to the intelligence +of my mule, who very soon assumed the entire control of his own conduct, +shaking his head whenever he felt the reins tighter than convenient, and +picking his way with all imaginable care: I always found, when the +ground appeared uncertain, that the sagacious animal would pause, and +putting out his foot, discover, by scratching, whether the ground might +be trusted, before he would advance a step further. + +After leaving the mountain, we arrived at the village of Antonio +Ferreira, which is ten miles from Ora Preta. At this village, the +Company have some landed property, which they intended to mine, but they +had not yet commenced their operations. From thence we passed on to +Inficionado, where the Company have another estate, Ceta Preta. The road +from Antonio Ferreira to this place, was very hilly and circuitous, as +well as very bad in particular places. We arrived about sunset, and got +comparatively well lodged, by some of the Company's servants, who reside +here to look after the estate: it had produced a little gold, but the +quantity was not considered sufficient to induce them to prosecute their +operations; and the people were consequently ordered to return to Gongo. + +_Friday, 15_.--We breakfasted with Mr. and Mrs. Bilden (one of the +clerks of the Gongo establishment); and about nine miles distant we +stopped to refresh, at the village of Catas Altas; where we had tidings +by an _avant courier_ from Gongo, that the heads of the mining +department were on their way to receive their chief (Captain Lyon), at +Brunado, which is about twelve miles from the establishment; and we +accordingly met them. After an exchange of civilities, we all proceeded +in grand cavalcade, towards Gongo, Lieutenant Tom, of the navy +(Lieutenant-Governor), and myself, leading the way. On our arrival, we +were received with cheers and gratulations, from all the individuals in +the establishment; and the day concluded by an entertainment to the +officers, given by Captain Lyon, at the government-house. + +Having arrived at this point of my journey, which brings me to a new and +interesting scene, I pause to look back upon the past, and to prepare +for the future. The traveller must rest in his book, as well as in his +route, and, bespeaking the reader's favour for the sequel of my +adventures and researches in the Gold Mines, I take my leave for the +present--hoping that the perusal of my discursive journal, may prove but +one-half as entertaining to others, as the consolatory resource of +producing it has been pleasurable to myself. + + +END OF VOL. I. + + +G. Norman, Printer, 29, Maiden-Lane, Covent-Garden. + + + +***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD, VOL. 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