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diff --git a/old/12525.txt b/old/12525.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..e92526d --- /dev/null +++ b/old/12525.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11652 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Voyage Of H.M.S. Rattlesnake, Vol. 2 (of 2) +by John MacGillivray + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Voyage Of H.M.S. Rattlesnake, Vol. 2 (of 2) + Narrative Of The Voyage Of H.M.S. Rattlesnake, Commanded By The Late + Captain Owen Stanley, R.N., F.R.S. Etc. During The Years 1846-1850. + Including Discoveries And Surveys In New Guinea, The Louisiade + Archipelago, Etc. To Which Is Added The Account Of Mr. E.B. Kennedy's + Expedition For The Exploration Of The Cape York Peninsula. By John + Macgillivray, F.R.G.S. Naturalist To The Expedition. + + +Author: John MacGillivray + +Release Date: June 5, 2004 [EBook #12525] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK VOYAGE OF H.M.S. RATTLESNAKE *** + + + + +Produced by Sue Asscher + + + + +NARRATIVE OF THE VOYAGE + +OF + +H.M.S. RATTLESNAKE, + +COMMANDED BY THE LATE + +CAPTAIN OWEN STANLEY, R.N., F.R.S. ETC. + +DURING THE YEARS 1846-1850. + +INCLUDING DISCOVERIES AND SURVEYS IN + +NEW GUINEA, THE LOUISIADE ARCHIPELAGO, + +ETC. + +TO WHICH IS ADDED THE ACCOUNT OF + +MR. E.B. KENNEDY'S EXPEDITION + +FOR THE EXPLORATION OF THE CAPE YORK PENINSULA. + +BY JOHN MACGILLIVRAY, F.R.G.S. + +NATURALIST TO THE EXPEDITION. + + +PUBLISHED UNDER THE + +SANCTION OF THE LORDS COMMISSIONERS OF THE ADMIRALTY. + + +IN TWO VOLUMES. + +VOLUME 2. + + +1852. + + + + +CONTENTS OF VOLUME 2. + + +CHAPTER 2.1. + +Distribution of Aboriginal tribes of Cape York and Torres Strait. +Mode of warfare illustrated. +Their social condition. +Treatment of the women. +Prevalence of infanticide. +Education of a child. +Mode of scarifying the body. +Initiation to manhood. +Their canoes, weapons, and huts. +Dress of the women. +Food of the natives. +Mode of fishing. +Capture of the turtle and dugong described. +Yams and mode of culture. +Edible roots, fruits, etc. +No recognised chieftainship. +Laws regarding property in land. +Belief in transmigration of souls. +Their traditions. +Diseases and modes of treatment. +Burial Ceremonies. + + +CHAPTER 2.2. + +Sail from Cape York. +Mount Ernest described. +Find Kalkalega tribe on Sue Island. +Friendly reception at Darnley Island, and proceedings there. +Bramble Cay and its turtle. +Stay at Redscar Bay. +Further description of the natives, their canoes, etc. +Pass along the South-east coast of New Guinea. +Call at Duchateau Islands. +Passage to Sydney. +Observations on Geology and Ethnology. +Origin of the Australians considered. + + +CHAPTER 2.3. + +Death of Captain Stanley. +Sail for England. +Arrive at the Bay of Islands. +Kororareka. +Falls of the Keri-Keri. +Passage across the South Pacific. +Oceanic birds. +Stay at the Falkland Islands. +Settlement of Stanley. +Call at Berkeley Sound. +Lassoing cattle. +Resume our homeward voyage. +Call at Horta in the Azores. +The caldeira of Fayal. +Arrive in England. + + +ACCOUNT OF MR. E.B. KENNEDY'S EXPEDITION. + +Narrative of Mr. W. Carron. +Statement of Jackey-Jackey. +Dr. Vallack's statement. +Extracts from Mr. T.B. Simpson's Log. + + +APPENDIX. + +COMPARATIVE VOCABULARY OF TWO OF THE LANGUAGES OF THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF +CAPE YORK. + +COMPARATIVE VOCABULARY OF THREE OF THE LANGUAGES OF THE SOUTH-EAST COAST +OF NEW GUINEA AND THE LOUISIADE ARCHIPELAGO. + +REMARKS ON THE VOCABULARIES OF THE VOYAGE OF THE RATTLESNAKE, BY R.G. +LATHAM, M.D. + +CATALOGUE OF THE BIRDS OF THE NORTH-EAST COAST OF AUSTRALIA AND TORRES +STRAIT. + +ON THE MOLLUSCA COLLECTED BY MR. MACGILLIVRAY DURING THE VOYAGE OF THE +RATTLESNAKE, BY PROFESSOR EDWARD FORBES, F.R.S. + +DESCRIPTIONS OF SOME NEW SPECIES OF ANNULOSA COLLECTED BY MR. +MACGILLIVRAY DURING THE VOYAGE OF H.M.S. RATTLESNAKE, BY ADAM WHITE, +ESQUIRE, F.L.S. + + +LIST OF PLATES. VOLUME 2. + +NATIVES OF REDSCAR BAY, NEW GUINEA. + +FUNERAL SCREEN, MOUNT ERNEST. + +INTERIOR OF DARNLEY ISLAND HUT. + +NEW SHELLS. +Tab. 2. +Fig. 1. Helix brumeriensis. +Fig. 2. Helix franklandiensis. +Fig. 3. Helix inconspicua. +Fig. 4. Helix iuloides. +Fig. 5. Helix divisa. +Fig. 6. Helix yulei. +Fig. 7. Helix dunkiensis. +Fig. 8. Helix louisiadensis. +Fig. 9. Balea australis. +Fig. 10. Pupina grandis. + +NEW SHELLS. +Tab. 3. +Fig. 1. Helix macgillivrayi. +Fig. 2. Pupina Thomsoni. +Fig. 3. Helicina gouldiana. +Fig. 4. Helicina stanleyi. +Fig. 5. Helicina louisiadensis. +Fig. 6. Ranella pulchra. +Fig. 7. Scalaria jukesiana. +Fig. 8. Macgillivrayia pelagica. +Fig. 9. Cheletropis huxleyi. + +NEW INSECTS. +Tab. 4. +Fig. 1, 2. Pachyrhynchus stanleyanus, White. +Fig. 3, 4. Drusilla myloecha, Westwood. +Fig. 5. Eusemia mariana, White. + +NEW CRABS. +Fig. 1. Ommatocarcinus macgillivrayi, White. +Fig. 2. Porcellanella triloba, White. + +CHART OF TORRES STRAIT, NEW GUINEA, AND LOUISIADE ARCHIPELAGO. + +... + + +VOYAGE OF H.M.S. RATTLESNAKE. + + +CHAPTER 2.1. + +Distribution of Aboriginal tribes of Cape York and Torres Strait. +Mode of warfare illustrated. +Their social condition. +Treatment of the women. +Prevalence of infanticide. +Education of a child. +Mode of scarifying the body. +Initiation to manhood. +Their canoes, weapons, and huts. +Dress of the women. +Food of the natives. +Mode of fishing. +Capture of the turtle and dugong described. +Yams and mode of culture. +Edible roots, fruits, etc. +No recognised chieftainship. +Laws regarding property in land. +Belief in transmigration of souls. +Their traditions. +Diseases and modes of treatment. +Burial Ceremonies. + +DISTRIBUTION OF TRIBES OF CAPE YORK AND TORRES STRAIT. + +There are at least five distinct tribes of natives inhabiting the +neighbourhood of Cape York. The Gudang people possess the immediate +vicinity of the Cape: the Yagulles* stretch along the coast to the +southward and eastward beyond Escape River: the Katchialaigas and +Induyamos (or Yarudolaigas as the latter are sometimes called) inhabit +the country behind Cape York, but I am not acquainted with the precise +localities: lastly, the Gomokudins are located on the South-West shores +of Endeavour Strait, and extend a short distance down the Gulf of +Carpentaria. These all belong to the Australian race as unquestionably as +the aborigines of Western or South Australia, or the South-East coast of +New South Wales; they exhibit precisely the same physical characteristics +which have been elsewhere so often described as to render further +repetition unnecessary. + +(*Footnote. This is the tribe concerned in the murder of the unfortunate +Kennedy. The circumstances were related by some of the Yagulles to an old +woman at Cape York of the name of Baki, who, when questioned upon the +subject through Giaom, partially corroborated the statement of +Jackey-Jackey. She further stated that a few years ago a Yagulle woman +and child had been shot by some white men in a small vessel near Albany +Island, and that the tribe were anxious to revenge their death. Whether +this was a story got up as a palliative for the murder, or not, I cannot +say.) + +On the other hand, the tribes inhabiting the islands of Torres Strait +differ from those of the mainland in belonging (with the exception of the +first) to the Papuan or frizzled-haired race. Besides, probably, a few +others of which I cannot speak with certainty, these tribes are +distributed in the following manner. The Kowraregas inhabit the Prince of +Wales group: the Muralegas and Italegas divide between them Banks Island: +the Badulegas possess Mulgrave Island, and the Gumulegas the islands +between the last and New Guinea: the Kulkalegas have Mount Ernest and the +Three Sisters: The Massilegas* reside on the York Isles and others +adjacent: and the Miriam** tribe hold the north-easternmost islands of +Torres Strait, including Murray and Darnley Islands. + +(*Footnote. I do not know what name is given to the tribe or tribes +inhabiting the space between the Miriam and the Kulkalaig. Dzum (a +Darnley islander) told me of a tribe called Gamle inhabiting Owrid, Uta, +Zogarid, Sirreb, Mekek, and Wurber; at all events the natives of Massid +belong to a distinct tribe, judging from their language, and are known as +the Massilegas by the Kowraregas. They occasionally (as in 1848) come +down to Cape York on a visit to the Australians there, often extending +their voyage far to the southward, visiting the various sandy islets in +search of turtle and remaining away for a month or more.) + +(**Footnote. Is so named from a place in Murray Island. The possessions +of this tribe are Mer, Dowar, Wayer, Errub, Ugar, Zapker, and Edugor, +all, except the two last, permanently inhabited. + +The junction between the two races, or the Papuan from the north and the +Australian from the south, is effected at Cape York by the Kowraregas, +whom I believe to be a Papuanized colony of Australians, as will +elsewhere be shown. In fact, one might hesitate whether to consider the +Kowraregas* as Papuans or Australians, so complete is the fusion of the +two races. Still the natives of the Prince of Wales Islands rank +themselves with the islanders and exhibit a degree of conscious +superiority over their neighbours on the mainland and with some show of +reason; although themselves inferior to all the other islanders, they +have at least made with them the great advance in civilisation of having +learned to cultivate the ground, a process which is practised by none of +the Australian aborigines. + +(*Footnote. Dr. Latham informs me that the Kowrarega language is +undeniably Australian, and has clearly shown such to be the case: and +although the Miriam language does not show any obvious affinity with the +continental Australian dialects, yet the number of words common to it and +the Kowrarega, I find by comparison of my vocabularies to be very +considerable, and possibly, were we at all acquainted with the grammar of +the former, other and stronger affinities would appear.) + +THE KOWRAREGAS. + +The Kowraregas speak of New Guinea under the name of Muggi (little) +Dowdai, while to New Holland they apply the term of Kei (large) Dowdai. +Their knowledge of the former island has been acquired indirectly through +the medium of intervening tribes. The New Guinea people are said to live +chiefly on pigs and sago; from them are obtained the cassowary feathers +used in their dances, and stone-headed clubs. They trade with the +Gumulegas, who exchange commodities with the Badulegas, from whom the +Kowrarega people receive them. These last barter away to their northern +neighbours spears, throwing-sticks, and mother-of-pearl shells for bows, +arrows, bamboo pipes, and knives, and small shell ornaments called +dibi-dibi. They have friendly relations with the other islanders of +Torres Strait, but are at enmity with all the mainland tribes except the +Gudang. + +MODE OF WARFARE ILLUSTRATED. + +Occasionally hostilities, frequently caused by the most trivial +circumstances, arise between two neighbouring tribes, when incursions are +made into each other's territories, and reprisals follow. Although timely +notice is usually given prior to an aggression being made by one tribe +upon another, yet the most profound secrecy is afterwards practised by +the invaders. As an illustration of their mode of warfare, in which +treachery is considered meritorious in proportion to its success, and no +prisoners are made, except occasionally, when a woman is carried +off--consisting chiefly in a sudden and unexpected attack, a short +encounter, the flight of one party and the triumphant rejoicings of the +other on their return--I may state the following on the authority of +Giaom. + +About the end of 1848, an old Kowrarega man went by himself in a small +canoe to the neighbourhood of Cape Cornwall, while the men of the tribe +were absent turtling at the eastern end of Endeavour Strait. He was +watched by a party of Gomokudin blacks or Yigeiles, who, guided by his +fire, surprised and speared him. Immediately returning to the mainland, +the perpetrators of this savage deed made a great fire by way of +exultation. Meanwhile the turtling party returned, and when it became +known that the old man had been missing for several days, they were +induced by his two sons to search for him, and found the body horribly +mutilated, with many spears stuck into it to show who had been the +murderers. This explained the fire, so another was lit in reply to the +challenge, and at night a party of Kowraregas in six canoes, containing +all the men and lads of the tribe, crossed over to the main. They came +upon a small camp of Yigeiles who had not been at all concerned in the +murder, and enticed one of them to come out of the thicket where he had +concealed himself by the offer of a fillet of cassowary feathers for +information regarding the real murderers. As soon as the man stepped out, +he was shot down with an arrow, his head cut off, and pursuit made after +the rest. Towards morning their second camping-place was discovered and +surrounded, when three men, one woman, and a girl were butchered. The +heads of the victims were cut off with the hupi, or bamboo knife, and +secured by the sringi, or cane loop, both of which are carried slung on +the back by the Torres Strait islanders and the New Guinea men of the +adjacent shores, when on a marauding excursion;* these Papuans preserve +the skulls of their enemies as trophies, while the Australian tribes +merely mutilate the bodies of the slain, and leave them where they fall. + +(*Footnote. See Jukes' Voyage of the Fly Volume 1 page 277.) + +CANNIBALISM. + +The Kowraregas returned to their island with much exultation, announcing +their approach by great shouting and blowing on conchs. The heads were +placed on an oven and partially cooked, when the eyes were scooped out +and eaten with portions of flesh cut from the cheek;* only those, +however, who had been present at the murder were allowed to partake of +this; the morsel was supposed to make them more brave. A dance was then +commenced, during which the heads were kicked along the ground, and the +savage excitement of the dancers almost amounted to frenzy. The skulls +were ultimately hung up on two cross sticks near the camp, and allowed to +remain there undisturbed. + +(*Footnote. The eyes and cheeks of the survivors from the wreck of a +Charles Eaton (in August 1834) were eaten by their murderers--a party +consisting of different tribes from the eastern part of Torres Strait. +See Nautical Magazine 1837 page 799.) + +In the beginning of 1849 a party of Badulegas who had spent two months on +a friendly visit to the natives of Muralug treacherously killed an old +Italega woman, married to one of their hosts. Two of her brothers from +Banks Island were staying with her at the time, and one was killed, but +the other managed to escape. The heads were carried off to Badu as +trophies. This treacherous violation of the laws of hospitality was in +revenge for some petty injury which one of the Badu men received from an +Ita black several years before. + +SIGNALS BY SMOKE. + +When a large fire is made by one tribe it is often intended as a signal +of defiance to some neighbouring one--an invitation to fight--and may be +continued daily for weeks before hostilities commence; it is answered by +a similar one. Many other signals by smoke are in use: for example, the +presence of an enemy upon the coast--a wish to communicate with another +party at a distance--or the want of assistance--may be denoted by making +a small fire, which, as soon as it has given out a little column of +smoke, is suddenly extinguished by heaping sand upon it. If not answered +immediately it is repeated; if still unanswered, a large fire is got up +and allowed to burn until an answer is returned. + +POLYGAMY. + +Polygamy is practised both on the mainland and throughout the islands of +Torres Strait. Five is the greatest number of wives which I was credibly +informed had been possessed by one man--but this was an extraordinary +instance, one, two, or three, being the usual complement, leaving of +course many men who are never provided with wives. The possession of +several wives ensures to the husband a certain amount of influence in his +tribe as the owner of so much valuable property, also from the nature and +extent of his connections by marriage. In most cases females are +betrothed in infancy, according to the will of the father, and without +regard to disparity of age, thus the future husband may be and often is +an old man with several wives. When the man thinks proper he takes his +wife to live with him without any further ceremony, but before this she +has probably had promiscuous intercourse with the young men, such, if +conducted with a moderate degree of secrecy, not being considered as an +offence, although if continued after marriage it would be visited by the +husband (if powerful enough) upon both the offending parties with the +severest punishment. + +Occasionally there are instances of strong mutual attachment and +courtship, when, if the damsel is not betrothed, a small present made to +the father is sufficient to procure his consent; at the Prince of Wales +Islands a knife or glass bottle are considered as a sufficient price for +the hand of a lady fair, and are the articles mostly used for that +purpose. + +According to Giaom puberty in girls takes place from the tenth to the +twelfth year, but few become mothers at a very early age. When +parturition is about to take place the woman retires to a little distance +in the bush, and is attended by an experienced matron. Delivery is +usually very easy, and the mother is almost always able on the following +day to attend to her usual occupations. The infant is laid upon a small +soft mat which the mother has taken care to prepare beforehand, and which +is used for no other purpose. + +CONDITION OF THE WOMEN. + +The life of a married woman among the Kowrarega and Gudang blacks is a +hard one. She has to procure nearly all the food for herself and husband, +except during the turtling season, and on other occasions when the men +are astir. If she fails to return with a sufficiency of food, she is +probably severely beaten--indeed the most savage acts of cruelty are +often inflicted upon the women for the most trivial offence. + +THEIR TREATMENT BY THE MEN. + +Considering the degraded position assigned by the Australian savages to +their women, it is not surprising that the Prince of Wales Islanders +should, by imitating their neighbours in this respect, afford a strong +contrast to the inhabitants of Darnley and other islands of the +North-East part of Torres Strait, who always appeared to me to treat +their females with much consideration and kindness. Several instances of +this kind of barbarity came under my own notice. Piaquai +(before-mentioned) when spoken to about his wife whom he had killed a +fortnight before in a fit of passion, seemed much amused at the idea of +having got rid of her unborn child at the same time. One morning at Cape +York, Paida did not keep his appointment with me as usual; on making +inquiry, I found that he had been squabbling with one of his wives a few +minutes before, about some trifle, and had speared her through the hip +and groin. On expressing my disapproval of what he had done, adding that +white men never acted in that manner, he turned it off by jocularly +observing that although _I_ had only one wife, HE had two, and could +easily spare one of them. As a further proof of the low condition of the +women, I may state that it is upon them that the only restrictions in +eating particular sorts of food are imposed. Many kinds of fish, +including some of the best, are forbidden on the pretence of their +causing disease in women, although not injurious to the men. The +hawksbill turtle and its eggs are forbidden to women suckling, and no +female, until beyond child bearing, is permitted to eat of the Torres +Strait pigeon. + +Among other pieces of etiquette to be practised after marriage among both +the Kowraregas and Gudangs, a man must carefully avoid speaking to or +even mentioning the name of his mother-in-law, and his wife acts +similarly with regard to her father-in-law. Thus the mother of a person +called Nuki--which means water--is obliged to call water by another name; +in like manner as the names of the dead are never mentioned without great +reluctance so, after the death of a man named Us, or quartz, that stone +had its name changed into nattam ure, or the thing which is a namesake, +although the original will gradually return to common use. + +The population of Muralug is kept always about the same numerical +standard by the small number of births, and the occasional practice of +infanticide. Few women rear more than three children, and besides, most +of those born before marriage are doomed to be killed immediately after +birth, unless the father--which is seldom the case--is desirous of saving +the child--if not, he gives the order marama teio (throw it into the +hole) and it is buried alive accordingly. Even of other infants some, +especially females, are made away with in a similar manner when the +mother is disinclined to support it. + +NAMING OF CHILDREN. + +An infant is named immediately after birth: and, on Muralug, these names +for the last few years have been chosen by a very old man named Guigwi. +Many of these names have a meaning attached to them: thus, two people are +named respectively Wapada and Passei, signifying particular trees, one +woman is called Kuki, or the rainy season, and her son Ras, or the +driving cloud. Most people have several names, for instance, old Guigwi +was also called Salgai, or the firesticks, and Mrs. Thomson was addressed +as Kesagu, or Taomai, by her (adopted) relatives, but as Giaom by all +others. Children are usually suckled for about two years, but are soon +able, in a great measure, to procure their own food, especially +shellfish, and when strong enough to use the stick employed in digging up +roots, they are supposed to be able to shift for themselves. + +COMPRESSION OF THE SKULL. + +A peculiar form of head, which both the Kowrarega and Gudang blacks +consider as the beau ideal of beauty, is produced by artificial +compression during infancy. Pressure is made by the mother with her +hands--as I have seen practised on more than one occasion at Cape +York--one being applied to the forehead and the other to the occiput, +both of which are thereby flattened, while the skull is rendered +proportionally broader and longer than it would naturally have been.* + +(*Footnote. Precisely the same form of skull as that alluded to in volume +1: hence it is not unreasonable to suppose that the latter might have +been artificially produced.) + +When the child is about a fortnight old the perforation in the septum of +the nose is made by drilling it with a sharp-pointed piece of +tortoise-shell, but the raised artificial scars, regarded as personal +ornaments by the Australians and Torres Strait Islanders, are not made +until long afterwards. According to Giaom, who states that among the +Kowraregas this scarification is purely voluntary, the patient is laid +upon the ground and held there, while the incisions are made with a piece +of glass by some old man famous for his skill in performing the +operation. The chewed leaf of a certain plant (which, however, I could +not identify) is introduced into the wound to prevent the edges from +uniting, and a daub of wet clay is then placed over all, and kept there +until the necessary effect has been produced. The principal +scarifications among women at Cape York and Muralug are in the form of +long lines across the hips. Among the men, however, there is considerable +variety. + +The characteristic mode of dressing the hair among the Torres Strait +Islanders is to have it twisted up into long pipe-like ringlets, and wigs +in imitation of this are also worn. Sometimes the head is shaved, leaving +a transverse crest--a practice seldom seen among the men but not uncommon +among women and children, from Darnley Island down to Cape York. At the +last place and Muralug the hair is almost always kept short--still +caprice and fashion have their sway, for at Cape York I have at times for +a week together seen all the men and lads with the hair twisted into +little strands well daubed over with red ochre and turtle fat. + +RAISED CICATRICES ON THE BODY. + +The Torres Strait Islanders are distinguished by a large complicated oval +scar, only slightly raised, and of neat construction. This, which I have +been told has some connection with a turtle, occupies the right shoulder, +and is occasionally repeated on the left. At Cape York, however, the +cicatrices were so varied, that I could not connect any particular style +with an individual tribe--at the same time something like uniformity was +noticed among the Katchialaigas, nearly all of whom had, in addition to +the horned breast-mark, two or three long transverse scars on the chest, +which the other tribes did not possess. In the remaining people the +variety of marking was such that it appeared fair to consider it as being +regulated more by individual caprice than by any fixed custom. Many had a +simple two-horned mark on each breast, and we sometimes saw among them a +clumsy imitation of the elaborate shoulder mark of the islanders. + +INITIATION TO RIGHTS OF MANHOOD. + +The custom of undergoing a certain mysterious ceremony prior to being +admitted to the privileges of manhood, supposed to be an institution +peculiar to the Australians, is found among the Kowraregas, but whether +it extends throughout Torres Strait is uncertain. This initiation is not +at Cape York and Muralug accompanied by the performance either of +circumcision or the knocking out of a tooth, as in many parts of +Australia. The boys, usually three or four in number, are chased about in +the bush during the day by some of the men decked out with feathers and +other ornaments, and at night retire to the men's camp, for, during the +whole time of their novitiate--or about a month--they must on no account +be seen by a woman; in fact, as Giaom informed me, a woman coming upon +these kernele--as they are called--no matter how accidentally, would be +immediately put to death. When all is over the lads return to their +parents, decorated with a profusion of ornaments which are worn until +they drop off, and wearing in front a small triangular piece of shell as +a distinguishing mark. + +CANOES OF TORRES STRAIT. + +The same kind of canoe which is found throughout Torres Strait has been +seen to extend from Cape York along the eastern coast as far south as +Fitzroy Island,* a distance of 500 miles. It essentially consists of a +hollowed-out log, a central platform, and an outrigger on each side. The +largest canoes which I have seen are those of the Murray and Darnley +Islanders, occasionally as much as sixty feet long; those of the +Australians are small, varying at Cape York between fifteen and thirty +feet in length. Even the Kowraregas have much finer canoes than their +neighbours on the mainland; one which I measured alongside the ship was +forty-five feet long and three and a half in greatest width, and could +carry with ease twenty-five people. + +(*Footnote. At the latter place we found a small canoe with two +outriggers concealed on shore among some bushes. The bark canoes of +Rockingham Bay have already been described. About Whitsunday Passage the +canoes, also of bark, are larger and of neater construction: one which I +examined at the Cumberland Isles was made of three pieces of bark neatly +sewn together; it was six feet long and two and a half feet wide, sharp +at each end, with a wooden thwart near the stem and stern, and a cord +amidships to keep the sides from stretching. In the creeks and bays of +the now settled districts of New South Wales another kind of canoe was +once in general use. At Broken Bay, in August 1847, a singular couple of +aborigines whom I met upon a fishing excursion had a small canoe formed +of a single sheet of bark tied up at each end; on the floor of this they +were squatted, with the gunwale not more than six inches above the +water's edge. Yet this frail bark contained a fire, numbers of spears, +fishing lines and other gear. The woman was a character well known in +Sydney--Old Gooseberry--said to be old enough to have remembered Cook's +first visit to these shores.) + +MODE OF CONSTRUCTING AND MANAGING THEM. + +The construction of a canoe in the neighbourhood of Cape York is still +looked upon as a great undertaking, although the labour has been much +lessened by the introduction of iron axes, which have completely +superseded those of stone formerly in use. A tree of sufficient size free +from limbs--usually a species of Bombax (silk-cotton tree) or +Erythrina--is selected in the scrub, cut down, hollowed out where it +falls, and dragged to the beach by means of long climbers used as ropes. +The remaining requisites are now added; two stout poles, fourteen to +twenty feet in length, are laid across the gunwale, and secured there +from six to ten feet apart, and the projecting ends are secured by +lashing and wooden pegs to a long float of light wood on each side, +pointed, and slightly turned up at the ends. A platform or stage of small +sticks laid across occupies the centre of the canoe, extending on each +side, several feet beyond the gunwale, and having on the outside a sort +of double fence of upright sticks used for stowing away weapons and other +gear. The paddles are five feet long, with a narrow rounded blade, and +are very clumsily made. The cable is made of twisted climbers--often the +Flagellaria indica--and a large stone serves for an anchor. + +When desirous of making sail, the first process is to set up in the bow +two poles as masts, and on the weather side a longer and stouter one is +laid across the gunwale, and projects outwards and backwards as an +outrigger. These are further supported by stays and guys, and, together +with another long pole forked at the end, serve as a frame to support the +pressure of the sails, which are usually two in number, made of matting +of pandanus leaves, and average four and a half feet in width and twelve +in height. The sails have a slender pole on each side to which the +matting is secured by small pegs; when set, they are put up on end side +by side, travelling along the backstay by means of a cane grommet. When +blowing fresh it is usual to keep a man standing on the temporary +outrigger to counteract by his weight the inclination of the canoe to +leeward. From the whole sail being placed in the bow these canoes make +much leeway, but when going free may attain a maximum speed of seven or +eight knots an hour. Except in smooth water they are very wet, and the +bailer (a melon shell) is in constant requisition. + +BOWS, ARROWS, SPEARS, THROWING-STICKS AND CLUBS. + +The inhabitants of the mainland and Prince of Wales Islands use the spear +and throwing-stick, but throughout the remainder of Torres Strait bows +and arrows are the chief weapons. The bows, which are large and powerful, +are made of split bamboo, and the arrows of a cane procured from New +Guinea, afterwards headed with hard wood variously pointed and sometimes +barbed. The Kowraregas obtain bows and arrows from their northern +neighbours, and occasionally use them in warfare, but prefer the spears +which are made by the blacks of the mainland. We saw three kinds of spear +at Cape York; one is merely a sharpened stick used for striking fish, the +two others, tipped and barbed with bone, are used in war. The principal +spear (kalak or alka) measures about nine feet in length, two-thirds of +which are made of she-oak or casuarina, hard and heavy, and the remaining +third of a soft and very light wood; one end has a small hollow to +receive the knob of the throwing-stick, and to the other the leg-bone of +a kangaroo six inches long, sharpened at each end, is secured in such a +manner as to furnish a sharp point to the spear and a long barb besides. +Another spear, occasionally used in fighting, has three or four heads of +wood each of which is tipped and barbed with a smaller bone than is used +for the kalak. + +The throwing-stick in use at Cape York extends down the North-East coast +at least as far as Lizard Island; it differs from those in use in other +parts of Australia in having the projecting knob for fitting into the end +of the spear parallel with the plane of the stick and not at rightangles. +It is made of casuarina wood, and is generally three feet in length, an +inch and a quarter broad, and half an inch thick. At the end a double +slip of melon shell, three and a half inches long, crossing diagonally, +serves as a handle, and when used, the end rests against the palm of the +right hand, the three last fingers grasp the stick, and the forefinger +and thumb loosely retain the spear. With the aid of the powerful leverage +of the throwing-stick a spear can be thrown to a distance varying +according to its weight from 30 to 80 yards, and with considerable +precision; still, if observed coming, it may easily be avoided. + +The only other weapon which I have seen in Torres Strait is a peculiar +kind of club procured from New Guinea, consisting of a quoit-like disk of +hard stone (quartz, basalt, or serpentine) with a sharp edge, and a hole +in the centre to receive one end of a long wooden handle. + +The huts which the Kowraregas and Cape York people put up when the rains +commence are usually dome-shaped, four to six feet high, constructed of +an arched framework of flexible sticks, one end of each of which is stuck +firmly in the ground, and over this sheets of tea-tree (Melaleuca) +bark--and sometimes an additional thatch of grass--are placed until it is +rendered perfectly watertight. + +PETTICOATS AND FISHING GEAR. + +Not only at Cape York but throughout Torres Strait the males use no +clothing or covering of any kind. At Cape York and the Prince of Wales +Islands grown up females usually wear a covering in front, consisting of +a tuft of long grass, or flag (Philydrum lanuginosum) or split pandanus +leaves, either hanging loosely or passed between the legs and tied to +another behind; over this a short petticoat of fine shreds of pandanus +leaf, the ends worked into a waistband, is sometimes put on, especially +by the young girls, and when about to engage in dancing. This petticoat, +varying only in the materials from which it is made, is in general use +among the females of all the Torres Strait tribes except the Kowrarega, +and much labour is often expended upon its construction. The large mats +used as sails, also for sleeping under in wet weather, are made by the +women from the fallen leaves of the pandanus--the common basket from the +rush-like leaves of Xerotes banksii ? --and the water basket from the +sheath of the leaf of the Seaforthia palm. + +The food of these blacks varies with the season of the year, and the +supply is irregular and often precarious. Shellfish and fish are alone +obtainable all the year round--collecting the former is exclusively a +female occupation, but fishing is chiefly practised by the men. Fish are +either killed with a plain pointed spear, often merely a stick sharpened +at the end, or are taken in deep water with the hook and line. Their +hooks are made of a strip of tortoise-shell so much curved as to form +three-fourths of a circle, but from their shape and the absence of a barb +they cannot be so effective as those of European make: indeed these last +were at Cape York preferred by the natives themselves. The line is neatly +made from the tough fibres of the rattan, which are first scraped to the +requisite degree of fineness with a sharp-edged Cyrena shell, then +twisted and laid up in three strands. + +Turtle forms an important article of food, and four different kinds are +distinguished at Cape York and the Prince of Wales Islands. Three of +these can be identified as the Green, the Hawksbill, and the Loggerhead +species, and the fourth is a small one which I never saw. This last, I +was informed by Giaom, is fished for in the following extraordinary +manner. + +MODE OF CATCHING TURTLE. + +A live sucking-fish (Echeneis remora) having previously been secured by a +line passed round the tail, is thrown into the water in certain places +known to be suitable for the purpose; the fish while swimming about makes +fast by its sucker to any turtle of this small kind which it may chance +to encounter, and both are hauled in together! + +The green turtle is of such consequence to the natives that they have +distinguished by a special name taken from the animal itself (sulangi +from sulur) the season of the year when it is most plentiful; this, at +Cape York, usually extends from about the middle of October until the end +of November, but the limits are not constant. During the season they are +to be seen floating about on the surface of the water, often in pairs, +male and female together. A few are caught at night on the sandy beaches, +but the greater number are captured in the water. The canoes engaged in +turtling, besides going about in the day, are often sent out on calm +moonlight nights. When a turtle is perceived, it is approached from +behind as noiselessly as possible--when within reach, a man in the bow +carrying the end of a small rope jumps out, and, getting upon the +animal's back, with a hand on each shoulder, generally contrives to turn +it before it has got far and secure it with the rope. This operation +requires considerable strength and courage, in addition to the remarkable +dexterity in diving and swimming possessed by all the blacks of the +north-east coast and Torres Strait. + +LOOKOUT STATIONS FOR TURTLE. + +There are some favourite lookout stations for turtle where the tide runs +strongly off a high rocky point. At many such places, distinguished by +large cairns* of stones, bones of turtle, dugongs, etc., watch is kept +during the season, and, when a turtle is perceived drifting past with the +tide, the canoe is manned and sent in chase. + +(*Footnote. One of these on Albany Rock is a pile of stones, five feet +high and seven wide, mixed up with turtle and human bones, and, when I +last saw it, it was covered with long trailing shoots of Flagellaria +indica placed there by a turtling party to ensure success, as I was told, +but how, was not explained. The human bones were the remains of a man +killed there many years ago by a party of Kowraregas who took his head +away with them. The mounds described and figured in Jukes' Voyage of the +Fly (Volume 1 pages 137 and 138) and considered by us at the time to be +graves, are merely the usual cairns at a lookout place for turtle.) + +With their usual improvidence, the Australians, when they take a turtle, +feast upon it until all has been consumed and the cravings of hunger +induce them to look out for another; but the Torres Strait Islanders are +accustomed to dry the flesh to supply them with food during their +voyages. The meat is cut into thin slices, boiled in a melon shell, stuck +upon skewers, and dried in the sun. Prepared in this manner it will keep +for several weeks, but requires a second cooking before being used, on +account of its hardness and toughness. The fat which rises to the surface +during the boiling is skimmed off and kept in joints of bamboo and turtle +bladders, being much prized as food; I have even seen the natives drink +it off in its hot fluid state with as much gusto as ever alderman enjoyed +his elaborately prepared turtle soup. + +HAWKSBILL TURTLE. + +The hawksbill turtle (Caretta imbricata) that chiefly producing the +tortoise-shell of commerce, resorts to the shores in the neighbourhood of +Cape York later in the season than the green species, and is +comparatively scarce. It is only taken at night when depositing its eggs +in the sand, as the sharpness of the margin of its shell renders it +dangerous to attempt to turn it in the water--indeed even the green +turtle, with a comparatively rounded margin to the carapace, +occasionally, in struggling to escape, inflicts deep cuts on the inner +side of the leg of its captor, of which I myself have seen an instance. +Of the tortoise-shell collected at Cape York and the Prince of Wales +Islands a small portion is converted into fishhooks, the rest is bartered +either to Europeans or to the Island blacks, who fashion it into various +ornaments. + +CAPTURE OF THE DUGONG. + +Another favourite article of food is the dugong (Halicore australis) of +which a few are killed every year. Although it extends along the east +coast of Australia from Moreton Bay to Cape York, it appears to be +nowhere very common. About Cape York and Endeavour Strait, the dugong is +most frequently seen during the rainy season, at which time it is said by +the natives to bring forth its young. When one is observed feeding close +inshore* chase is made after it in a canoe. One of the men standing up in +the bow is provided with a peculiar instrument used solely for the +capture of the animal in question. It consists of a slender peg of bone, +four inches long, barbed all round, and loosely slipped into the heavy, +rounded, and flattened head of a pole, fifteen to sixteen feet in length; +a long rope an inch in thickness, made of the twisted stems of some +creeping plant, is made fast to the peg at one end, while the other is +secured to the canoe. When within distance, the bowman leaps out, strikes +the dugong, and returns to the canoe with the shaft in his hand. On being +struck, the animal dives, carrying out the line, but generally rises to +the surface and dies in a few minutes, not requiring a second wound, a +circumstance surprising in the case of a cetaceous animal, six or eight +feet in length, and of proportionate bulk. The carcass is towed on shore +and rolled up the beach, when preparations are made for a grand feast. +The flesh is cut through to the ribs in thin strips, each with its share +of skin and blubber, then the tail is removed and sliced with a sharp +shell as we would a round of beef. The blubber is esteemed the most +delicate part; but even the skin is eaten, although it requires much +cooking in the oven. + +(*Footnote. A slender, branchless, cylindrical, articulated seaweed, of a +very pale green colour, was pointed out to me by a native as being the +favourite food of the dugong.) + +COOKING IN THE OVEN. + +This oven is of simple construction--a number of stones, the size of the +fist, are laid on the ground, and a fire is continued above them until +they are sufficiently hot, the meat is then laid upon the bottom layer +with some of the heated stones above it, a rim of tea-tree bark banked up +with sand or earth is put up all round, with a quantity of bark, leaves, +or grass on top, to retain the steam, and the process of baking goes on. +This is the favourite mode of cooking turtle and dugong throughout Torres +Strait, and on the east coast of the mainland I have seen similar +fireplaces as far south as Sandy Cape. + +CULTURE OF THE YAM. + +A great variety of yam-like tubers are cultivated in Torres Strait. +Although on Murray and Darnley and other thickly peopled and fertile +islands a considerable extent of land in small patches has been brought +under cultivation, at the Prince of Wales Islands the cleared spots are +few in number, and of small extent--nor does the latter group naturally +produce either the coconut or bamboo, or is the culture of the banana +attempted. On the mainland again I never saw the slightest attempt at +gardening. + +The principal yam, or that known by the names of kutai and ketai, is the +most important article of vegetable food, as it lasts nearly throughout +the dry season. Forming a yam garden is a very simple operation. No +fencing is required--the patch of ground is strewed with branches and +wood, which when thoroughly dry are set on fire to clear the surface--the +ground is loosely turned up with a sharpened stick, and the cut pieces of +yam are planted at irregular intervals, each with a small pole for the +plant to climb up. These operations are completed just before the +commencement of the wet season, or in the month of October. + +When the rains set in the biyu becomes the principal support of the Cape +York and Muralug people. This is a grey slimy paste procured from a +species of mangrove (Candelia ?) the sprouts of which, three or four +inches long, are first made to undergo a process of baking and +steaming--a large heap being laid upon heated stones, and covered over +with bark, wet leaves, and sand--after which they are beaten between two +stones, and the pulp is scraped out fit for use. It does not seem to be a +favourite food, and is probably eaten from sheer necessity. Mixed up with +the biyu to render it more palatable they sometimes add large quantities +of a leguminous seed, the size of a chestnut, which has previously been +soaked for a night in water, and the husk removed, or the tuber of a wild +yam (Dioscorea bulbifera) cut into small pieces, and well steeped in +water to remove its bitter taste. + +Among the edible fruits of Cape York I may mention the leara, a species +of Anacardium or cashew nut (the lurgala of Port Essington) which, after +being well roasted to destroy its acridity has somewhat the taste of a +filbert--the elari (a species of Wallrothia) the size of an apricot, soft +and mealy, with a nearly insipid but slightly mawkish taste--wobar, the +small, red, mealy fruit of Mimusops kaukii--and the apiga (a species of +Eugenia) a red, apple-like fruit, the pericarp of which has a pleasantly +acid taste. The fruit of two species of pandanus yields a sweet mucilage +when sucked, and imparts it to water in which it has been soaked, after +which it is broken up between two stones, and the kernels are extracted +and eaten. + +NO RECOGNISED CHIEFTAINSHIP. + +Throughout Australia and Torres Strait, the existence of chieftainship, +either hereditary or acquired, has in no instance of which I am aware +been clearly proved: yet in each community there are certain individuals +who exercise an influence over the others which Europeans are apt to +mistake for real authority. These so-called chiefs, are generally elderly +men, who from prowess in war, force of character, or acknowledged +sagacity, are allowed to take the lead in everything relating to the +tribe. In Torres Strait such people are generally the owners of large +canoes, and several wives; and in the northern islands, of groves of +coconut-trees, yam grounds, and other wealth. Among the Kowraregas, there +are, according to Giaom, three principal people, Manu, Piaquai, and Baki, +all old men, but among the Gudangs, a young man of twenty-five of the +name of Tumagugo appeared to have the greatest influence, and next to him +Paida, not more than six or eight years older. + +LAWS REGARDING PROPERTY IN LAND. + +It seems curious to find at Cape York and the Prince of Wales Islands a +recognised division and ownership of land, seeing that none of it by +cultivation has been rendered fit for the permanent support of man. +According to Giaom, there are laws regulating the ownership of every inch +of ground on Muralug and the neighbouring possessions of the Kowraregas, +and I am led to believe such is likewise the case at Cape York. Among +these laws are the following: A person has a claim upon the ground where +both himself and his parents were born, although situated in different +localities. On the death of parents their land is divided among the +children, when both sexes share alike, with this exception, that the +youngest of the family receives the largest share. Marriage does not +affect the permanency of the right of a woman to any landed property +which may have come into her possession. Lastly, an old man occasionally +so disposes of his property that a favourite child may obtain a larger +proportion than he could afterwards claim as his inheritance. + +Neither at Cape York, nor in any of the Islands of Torres Strait, so far +as I am aware, do the aborigines appear to have formed an idea of the +existence of a Supreme Being; the absence of this belief may appear +questionable, but my informant, Giaom, spoke quite decidedly on this +point, having frequently made it the subject of conversation with the +Kowrarega blacks. + +TRANSMIGRATION OF SOULS. + +The singular belief in the transmigration of souls, which is general +among the whole of the Australian tribes, so far as known, also extends +to the islands of Torres Strait. The people holding it imagine that, +immediately after death, they are changed into white people or Europeans, +and as such pass the second and final period of their existence; nor is +it any part of this creed that future rewards and punishments are +awarded. It may readily be imagined that when ignorant and superstitious +savage tribes, such as those under consideration, were first visited by +Europeans, it was natural for them to look with wonder upon beings so +strangely different from themselves, and so infinitely superior in the +powers conferred by civilisation, and to associate so much that was +wonderful with the idea of supernatural agency. At Darnley Island, the +Prince of Wales Islands, and Cape York, the word used at each place to +signify a white man, also means a ghost.* The Cape York people even went +so far as to recognise in several of our officers and others in the ship, +the ghosts of departed friends to whom they might have borne some fancied +resemblance, and, in consequence, under the new names of Tamu, Tarka, +etc. they were claimed as relations, and entitled to all the privileges +of such. + +(*Footnote. Frequently when the children were teasing Giaom, they would +be gravely reproved by some elderly person telling them to leave her, as +"poor thing! she is nothing, only a ghost!" (igur! uri longa, mata +markai.)) + +SUPERSTITIONS. + +Among many superstitions held by the Prince of Wales islanders, they are +much afraid of shooting-stars, believing them to be ghosts which in +breaking up produce young ones of their own kind. After sneezing, they +make violent gestures with the hands and arms; if a joint cracks, they +imagine that someone is speaking of them or wishing them well in the +direction in which the arm is pointing. + +The only tradition which I heard of occurs among the Kowraregas, and is +worth mentioning for its singularity. The first man created was a great +giant named Adi, who, while fishing off Hammond Island, was caught by the +rising tide and drowned, Hammond Rock springing up immediately after to +mark the spot. His wives, who were watching him at the time, resolved to +drown themselves, and were changed into some dry rocks upon an adjacent +reef named after them Ipile, or the wives. + +DISEASES AND MODE OF TREATMENT. + +According to Giaom ague is prevalent in Muralug during the rainy season, +but is not much dreaded, as it is supposed to remove former complaints, +such as the sores prevalent among children. At Cape York I have seen +people affected with this complaint, but to what extent it occurs in that +neighbourhood I cannot state. One day some people from the ship saw our +friend Tumagugo under treatment for ague. He was laid upon the ground +while several men in succession took his head between their knees and +kneaded it with their hands. After this they placed him close to a fire +and sprinkled water over him until a copious perspiration broke out, +denoting the third and last stage of the attack. Boils on various parts +of the body, even on the head, are prevalent, especially during the rainy +season, when the food is of a poorer description than at other times. +Children are most subject to them, and I have more than once seen them so +covered with offensive sores as to be rendered most disgusting objects. +In old people callosities frequently form on the hip and elbows, the +effect, probably, of sleeping on the ground. Scarification of the +affected part is a common mode of treating local inflammatory complaints. +Ligatures are also used, as for example, one across the forehead to +remove headache. A singular mode of treating various complaints consists +in attaching one end of a string to the patient, while the other is held +in the mouth of a second person, who scarifies his own gums at the same +time until they bleed, which is supposed to indicate that the bad blood +has passed from the sick to the sound person. + +FUNERAL CEREMONIES. + +With regard to the curious burial ceremonies of the Kowraregas, I regret +that I cannot be so explicit as might otherwise have been the case, as +Giaom's information on this subject, and on this only, was not written +down at the time. When the head of a family dies at Muralug, the body is +laid out upon a framework of sticks raised a foot from the ground, and is +there allowed to rot. A small hut is raised close by, and the nearest +relative of the deceased lives there, supplied with food by his friends, +until the head of the corpse becomes nearly detached by the process of +putrefaction, when it is removed and handed over to the custody of the +eldest wife. She carries it about with her in a bag during her widowhood, +accompanying the party of the tribe to which she belongs from place to +place. The body, or rather the headless skeleton, is then interred in a +shallow grave over which a mound is raised ornamented by wooden posts at +the corners painted red, with sometimes shells, and other decorations +attached to them, precisely such a one as that figured in the Voyage of +the Fly, volume 1 page 149. On the occasion of our visiting the grave in +question (at Port Lihou, on Muralug) Giaom told me that we were closely +watched by a party of natives who were greatly pleased that we did not +attempt to deface the tomb; had we done so--and the temptation was great +to some of us, for several fine nautilus shells were hanging up, and some +good dugong skulls were lying upon the top--one or more of the party +would probably have been speared. + + +CHAPTER 2.2. + +Sail from Cape York. +Mount Ernest described. +Find Kalkalega tribe on Sue Island. +Friendly reception at Darnley Island, and proceedings there. +Bramble Cay and its turtle. +Stay at Redscar Bay. +Further description of the natives, their canoes, etc. +Pass along the South-east coast of New Guinea. +Call at Duchateau Islands. +Passage to Sydney. +Observations on Geology and Ethnology. +Origin of the Australians considered. + +SAIL FROM CAPE YORK. + +December 3rd. + +At length we have bade a final adieu to Cape York, after a stay of +upwards of two months, which have passed away very pleasantly to such of +us as were in the habit of making excursions in the bush, or who spent +much of their time on shore. We are now on our way to Sydney, by way of +Torres Strait, New Guinea and the Louisiade, chiefly for the purpose of +running another set of meridian distances, the position of Cape York +being now sufficiently well determined to serve as a secondary meridian, +one of the starting points of the survey. The natives learned at daylight +that we were to leave them in a few hours, so in order to make the most +of their last opportunity of getting bisiker and choka, they hauled a +large canoe across the dry sands after much trouble, and under the +direction of Baki, who affected great grief at the prospect of parting +with us, went off to the ship. + +MOUNT ERNEST. + +We sailed at 8 A.M. for Mount Ernest--at which place a round of +theodolite angles was required--and in the afternoon anchored off its +south-western side in nine fathoms, one mile off shore. A solitary native +was seen at work upon a canoe near the beach, but when a boat approached +the shore he withdrew. The canoe was about half finished, and close by +was a small shed of bamboo thatched with grass. After crossing a small +sandy plain covered with short grass growing in tufts, we met the native +on the edge of a brush to which he had slowly retired in order to pick up +his spears and throwing-stick, both of which were precisely similar to +those of Cape York, from which place they had probably been procured. He +was a quiet, sedate, good-natured old man, and although at first rather +shy he soon laid aside his fears on receiving assurances in the Kowrarega +language, which he understood, that markai poud Kulkalaig Nagir (the +white men are friends of the Kulkalega tribe of Mount Ernest) backed by a +present of some biscuit and a knife. On subsequent occasions, when +accompanying us from place to place, the quiet listless apathy of the old +fellow was a source of some amusement. He did what was told him, and +exhibited little curiosity, and scarcely any surprise at the many +wonderful things we showed him--such as shooting birds with a gun, and +procuring a light from a lucifer match. + +MOUNT ERNEST DESCRIBED. + +On the following day I had an opportunity of examining the whole of the +northern or inhabited side of the island. Mount Ernest is little more +than a mile in greatest length, of a somewhat triangular shape, its +eastern and larger portion hilly, rising gradually to an elevation of 751 +feet, and its western part low and sandy. The rock is grey sienite, and +from the striking similarity of aspect, it appeared to me pretty certain +that Pole, Burke, and Banks Islands are of the same formation; they agree +in exhibiting massive peaks, respectively 409, 490, and 1,246 feet in +height. + +Mount Ernest is the headquarters of the Kulkalega tribe of Torres Strait +Islanders who are now absent on one of their periodical migrations, +leaving in possession only the old man whom we met yesterday, and his +family, among whom is a daughter of rather prepossessing appearance for a +female of her race. The village consists of a single line of huts, which +would furnish accommodation for, probably, 150 people. It is situated on +the north-west, or leeward side of the island, immediately behind the +beach, and in front of a belt of jungle. The huts are long and low, with +an arched roof, and vary in length from ten to twenty feet, with an +average height of five feet, and a width of six. They consist of a neat +framework of strips of bamboo, thatched with long coarse grass. Each hut +is usually situated in a small well-fenced enclosure, and opposite to it +on the beach is the cooking place, consisting of a small shed, under +which the fire is made. We saw indications of many turtle having lately +been cooked here upon a framework of sticks over a small fire, precisely +as is practised by the natives of New Guinea and the Louisiade +Archipelago. + +SIGNS OF CULTIVATION. + +The strip of forest behind the village is traversed in every direction by +well beaten paths, chiefly leading to the back part of the island, where, +on the slope of a hill in good soil, we found many patches of rude +cultivation. The chief plant is a broad-leaved species of yam, trained +upon tall poles kept in position by cross bamboos, forming a framework +divided into little squares, each of which contains a plant. A species of +Calladium with an esculent root is also much cultivated; it is planted in +regular rows with the earth heaped up in ridges, as in a potato or turnip +field at home. I noticed some small plots of ground prepared with more +than usual care for the growth of what Giaom told me was a herb used as +tobacco; the young plants were protected from the sun with pieces of +matting. + +COLLECTION OF HUMAN SKULLS. + +Not far from the village, under the shade of an aged mimusops tree on the +outskirts of the wood, we observed a cleared oval space where ten human +skulls--of former members of the tribe, as we were informed--were +arranged upon a plank raised on stones a foot or so from the ground. The +skulls were mostly old and weather-worn, and some of them had pandanus +seeds stuck in the orbits by way of eyes. In front was a large smooth +stone painted red and black, and partially embedded in the earth, and +beside it were some painted human leg and arm bones, shells and other +ornaments. Behind, some thirty or forty skulls of turtle were arranged on +the ground in several rows forming a triangle. + +CURIOUS SCREEN. + +In a beautiful opening among the trees behind the village we saw an +extraordinary screen--named wows--the purpose of which, so far as we +could understand, had some connection with the memory of the dead. It +extended fifty-six feet in length, with a slight outward curvature, and +measured five feet and a half in height. It was formed of a row of poles +stuck in the ground, crossed in front by three horizontal strips of +bamboo, and covered with cross latticework. The bars of the screen were +daubed over with red paint, and hung with rows of spider-shells also +painted red. Some poles projecting above the others two to four feet had +painted jaws of the dugong and large conch shells (Fusus proboscidiferus) +fixed to the top, and numerous other dugong bones and shells were +scattered along the front. On the ground along the foot of the screen was +a row of stones painted with black and red in imitation of grotesque +faces, and to several of these the old man who acted as cicerone attached +the names of persons who were dead. In some the painting was +comparatively recent, and the stones appeared to have been placed there +singly at different periods to commemorate the death of the heads of +families of the tribe. We saw another of these curious funeral +screens--like the first one it was situated in a little glade in the +forest, but unlike it the front was covered or thatched with coconut +leaves, and it had a small door-like opening in the centre. + +The natives must have left the island either on account of its being now +the turtling season, or else from the want of water. A small deep well +behind the village, apparently the only one in the place, was almost +entirely dried up. From the old man I procured the names of some of the +neighbouring islands, and also a few other Kulkalega words which are so +similar to those of the Kowrarega language as to corroborate Giaom's +assertion that both have many words in common. By way of illustration I +may give a few examples. Thus muto, small bird; kudulug, dove; geinow, +pigeon; kakur, egg; burda, grass; waraba, coconut; moda, enclosure round +the huts. + +At one place I saw indications of an upheaval of the northern side of the +island in a bed of coral conglomerate six feet thick, with its raised +wall-like edge towards the hill as if tilted up, and the remainder +sloping down towards the sea. A similar appearance on a small scale +exists on most of the coral islands which I have visited, but I had not +before seen these sloping beds above the influence of the salt water, or +at least beyond reach of the spray, still less supporting luxuriant +vegetation, consisting in the present instance of a large extent of +jungle, with trees often of great size, and a dense growth of underwood. + +PRODUCTIONS OF THE ISLAND. + +Among the natural productions of the island I may first allude to the +large thickets of bamboo scattered along the base of the hill as the +first new feature in the vegetation, and secondly, to the small Eucalypti +growing between the hill and the brushes, as this is the most northerly +limit of that Australian genus known to me. Among the trees of the +brushes I may mention the Anacardium, or cashew nut, with large red acrid +fruit, Mimusops kaukii, often attaining a great size, and a species of +Bombax, or silk-cotton tree, from the trunk of one of which the canoe we +saw upon the beach was being constructed. + +Of birds the Australian quail, Torres Strait pigeon, and brown dove were +plentiful, and afforded good sport to the shooters; Pitta strepitans (a +handsome thrush-like bird of gaudy colours--red, green, blue and black) +was heard calling in every brush and thicket. Several large lizards were +seen; one of these, about four feet in length, perched upon the fence of +one of the deserted huts, at first took so little notice of my approach +that I refrained from shooting it, thinking it had been tamed. The colour +of this lizard (Monitor gouldii) is a dull bluish green, spotted and +variegated with yellow. It is much esteemed as food, and the skin is used +for covering the warup or New Guinea drum. + +SUE ISLAND. + +December 7th. + +In the morning a canoe, with seven men in it, came off to the ship from +Sue Island, near which we were at anchor. At first they approached +cautiously, holding up pieces of tortoise-shell, and making a great +noise, shouting out, "kaisu (tortoise-shell) +kapo-bue--kapo-buai--poud--poud," etc., besides other words which were +unintelligible, pointing at the same time to the island (which they +called Waraber) as if inviting us to land. + +KULKALEGA TRIBE OF NATIVES. + +These blacks belonged to the Kulkalega or Kulkalaig tribe, as was +ascertained by Giaom, who was well-known to some of them, and understood +enough of their language to keep up a conversation. Nearly the whole +tribe, she was informed, are now upon Sue Island, although their +headquarters are, as mentioned before, at Mount Ernest. The men in the +canoe differed in no material respect from the natives of the Prince of +Wales Islands on one hand, and those of Darnley Island on the other. Many +had the characteristic faint oval scar on one shoulder, some wore the +hair in moderately long pipe-like ringlets, while others had it cut +close. All were perfectly naked, and the only ornaments worn were the +large round pearl-shell on the breast. The canoe was rather singular in +form, with greater beam than I had ever seen in one, nor did the sides +tumble home as usual; the bow was sharp, but the stern square, as if +effected by cutting a very large canoe in halves, and filling up the open +end. We saw several bamboo bows and bundles of arrows, stowed away under +the platform; these the natives would not part with, but a large quantity +of very fine tortoise-shell was obtained, chiefly in exchange for leaf +tobacco, which they know by the name of sugub. + +When the tide slackened we got underweigh, and the natives returned to +their island. Sue, although the largest of the Three Sisters, is not more +than the third of a mile in length. Like all the islands of the eastern +side of Torres Strait, with the exception of the Darnley and Murray +Islands, this is of the coral sand formation, low and thickly wooded. +Some coconut-trees grow at the west end of the island, where there is a +native village which we approached close enough to have a good view of it +with the spy-glass. It consisted of several long huts, thatched with +grass, which apparently are not much used during the daytime, as we saw +no one entering or coming out of them. Many of the people, both men and +women, ran down to the beach, waving green branches to induce us to land; +others were sitting down under temporary sheds made by stretching large +mats--the sails of their canoes--over a framework of sticks. The inside +of one large enclosure was concealed by a fence six feet high, and an +adjacent shed, under which some cooking was going on, was completely +covered with some recent shells of turtle, apparently about thirty in +number. Three very large canoes were hauled up on the beach, protected +from the sun by matting, and two smaller ones were kept afloat. There +appeared to be about 60 people upon the island, from which, and other +circumstances, I do not suppose the Kulkalega tribe to consist of more +than 100 souls. The women whom we saw wore loose petticoats of leaves +reaching to below the knees. + +The ship worked up through the channel between Bet and Sue Islands, and +anchored for the night off the eastern extreme of the reef running out +from the former. Four large canoes coming from the northward passed over +the reef at high-water, going towards Sue Island. + +LAND ON ARDEN ISLAND. + +Next day we passed Coconut Island on our right, and Dove Island on our +left, and anchored near Arden Island, where we landed on the following +morning before daylight with a seining party. The place is scarcely more +than a quarter of a mile in length, low and sandy, covered with tall +bushes and a few clumps of trees (Pisonia grandis). We saw traces--but +none very recent--of visits paid by the natives, indicated by remains of +fires, turtle bones, a large pit dug as a well, and two old graves. As +usual a coral reef extends from the shore, without leaving a clear spot +of sufficient size to admit of the seine being hauled. Species of Cissus +and two or three Capparidae constituted the bulk of the vegetation, and +rendered the low scrub almost impervious in many places. A number of +Torres Strait pigeons, chiefly young birds, and some stone-plovers and +other waders, were shot, and one rare bird was obtained for the +collection, a male of Pachycephala melanura. Soon after our return we got +underweigh, passed on our right Rennel, Marsden, and Keat Islands, and +anchored three miles to the northward of the last of these. + +NATIVES COME ON BOARD. + +December 10th. + +While getting underweigh, a canoe with a party of natives from Stephens +Island came off to us in a very confident manner, and at once called out +for a rope (laga) with which they made fast to the ship. Among them were +two of the natives of Darnley Island, one of whom, Dzum, soon recognised +me as an old acquaintance, under the name of Dzoka, by which I had +formerly been known on shore during the Fly's visits. They had a few +coconuts, and a little tortoise-shell for barter, and were very urgent +that the ship should go to Campbell Island on her way to Darnley, +promising us abundance of water, coconuts, yams, and tortoise-shell, of +the first of which at least they could have had none to spare. In the +evening they left us, after spending the greater part of the day on +board, with their canoe towing astern. I found the native names of at +least three of the islands to differ from those given in the Admiralty's +chart of Torres Strait from the Fly's survey. Thus Nepean Island is +Edugor, not Oogar--Stephens Island is Ugar and not Attagor--and Campbell +Island is Zapker (nearly as Lewis makes it) and not Jarmuth. These names +were obtained under circumstances which obviated the possibility of +mistake. Dzum also gave much information regarding other matters, and +enabled me to fix the limits of the tribe to which he belonged, a matter +which had frequently puzzled me before. In the afternoon the Bramble--as +told to us by the natives--appeared in sight, but we could not reach +Darnley Island, so anchored after dark in forty-five fathoms, mud, seven +miles to the northward of it. + +December 11th. + +A light air from the North-West carried us up to the anchorage in +Treacherous Bay about noon. A canoe from the village of Kiriam came off +to us, and lay under our stern bartering tortoise-shell for knives, axes, +and tobacco, and when we shoved off in the first cutter to communicate +with the shore, one of the natives, on being asked to accompany us, +jumped into the water without a moment's hesitation, and swam to the +boat. We landed at Kiriam, and were received by a crowd of people on the +rocks and in the water. + +ARE RECEIVED IN A FRIENDLY MANNER. + +My old friend Siwai, with whom I had gone through the ceremony of +exchanging names nearly five years ago, showed much joy at seeing me +again, and made many enquiries regarding Jukes and others then in the +Fly. But these five years have sadly altered him--he now presents the +appearance of a feeble emaciated man prematurely old, with a short cough +and low voice--his back is bowed down, and even with the aid of a stick +he can scarcely totter along. He is now the man in most authority in the +island, his rival Mamus having been killed in New Guinea in company with +several other Darnley Islanders whose names were mentioned to me; they +had been on a visit to a friendly tribe, one of whose quarrels they +espoused, and only a few returned to Errub to tell the tale. The natives +wished us to stay at Kiriam, but as the principal object of the ship's +coming to the island was to procure water, we were anxious to know +whether it could be obtained in sufficient quantity at Bikar, where the +Fly and Bramble had watered before. As Siwai told us that there was none +at Bikar, but plenty at Mogor--his own village--we pulled along to the +latter place, accompanied by himself and three of his sons. In passing +along the south-west side of the island, we were struck with the superior +richness of vegetation and apparent fertility, compared with what we had +seen in New Guinea and the Louisiade Archipelago during the previous part +of the cruise. Some portions reminded one of English park scenery--gently +sloping, undulating, grassy hills, with scattered clumps and lines of +trees. + +UNABLE TO FIND WATER. + +On landing at the village, which consists of two or three houses only, we +were taken a quarter of a mile--by a path leading along a small valley +through a grove of coconut-trees, bananas, and various cultivated plants +(among which I observed the Mango in full bearing) to a pool of water in +the dried-up bed of a small rivulet. But the quantity of water was not +enough for our purpose, even had it been situated in a place more easy of +access. Some magnificent Sago palms overhung the water with their large +spreading fronds; these we were told had been brought from Dowde or New +Guinea, many years ago. Siwai and his sons, at their own urgent request, +were allowed a passage with us to the ship, and remained all night there, +sleeping among the folds of a sail upon the poop. + +December 12th. + +In the morning a party landed at Bikar (abreast of the ship) to look for +water, but the pool which on several occasions supplied the Fly, Bramble, +and Prince George, was now dry. At this season too, during the prevalence +of North-West winds, landing is difficult on account of the surf, and we +had much trouble in keeping our guns dry while up to the waist in water. +In the afternoon both cutters were sent to Mogor to procure vegetables +for the ship's company by barter with the natives, and I accompanied the +party, but, contrary to expectation, no one was allowed to land, the +person in authority having seen something on shore to alarm him, the +nature of which continued to us a mystery. The second cutter laid off, +and the first remained in water about knee-deep, surrounded by a crowd of +unarmed natives. The scene was at that time very animated--groups of men, +women, and children, were to be seen staggering under a load of coconuts, +wading out to the boats, scrambling to be first served, and shouting out +to attract attention to their wares, which in addition included some +tortoise-shell, a few yams, bananas and mangos. Siwai was present in the +boat, and by exercising his authority in our behalf, matters went on more +smoothly than otherwise might have been the case. A large supply of +coconuts and a few vegetables having been obtained for axes, knives, +calico, and red cloth, we returned to the ship. + +BARTERING SCENE. + +December 13th. + +Three boats were sent to Kiriam to procure more coconuts. There being no +prohibition of landing, I remained onshore during the bartering, sitting +in a shady place among a group of women and children, and employed in +procuring materials for a vocabulary. Most of them remembered me of old, +and in consequence fancied they had a claim upon my tobacco, the stock of +which was quickly exhausted. + +INTERIOR OF A HUT. + +The huts of Darnley Island--together with the inhabitants--have been so +fully described in the voyage of the Fly, that it is unnecessary for me +to enter upon the subject. The natives always objected to show to us the +inside of their huts, many of which we knew were used as dead houses--but +Mr. Huxley today was fortunate enough to induce one of them to allow him +to enter his house, and make a sketch of the interior, but not until he +had given him an axe as an admission fee. These huts resemble a great +beehive in shape--a central pole projects beyond the roof, and to this is +connected a framework of bamboo, thatched with grass, leaving a single +small low entrance to serve as door and window. + +HUMAN SKULLS OFFERED FOR SALE. + +Several human skulls were brought down for sale, also a little shrivelled +mummy of a child. Some of the former had the skin quite perfect, the nose +artificially restored in clay mixed with a resinous substance, and the +orbits occupied by a diamond-shaped piece of mother-of-pearl, with a +black central mark. Towards the end of the bartering the natives had +become very noisy, and even insolent, and everything seemed to indicate +that some at least of them were dissatisfied, and inclined to resent some +injury or cause of offence, for which purpose apparently they had their +bows and arrows ready, and their gauntlets upon the left forearm. Some of +them desired me to get into the boat and be off, intended as I understood +for a friendly caution, while Dzum came up with an air of profound +mystery, wishing me to come with him (now that I was alone) to a +neighbouring hut to see a barit which he had brought over for me from +Stephens Island. This name is applied to the opossums of the genus Cuscus +which the Torres Strait Islanders occasionally procure from New Guinea. +However it was time for me to be off, so I contented myself with +promising a large reward for the animal if taken off to the ship. The +produce of our barter on this and previous occasions amounted to 467 +coconuts, 388 pounds of yams* (then very scarce) and 159 pounds of +bananas. + +(*Footnote. Not less than nine different kinds of yams and yam-like +tubers--including the sweet-potato--are cultivated in Torres Strait, and +are specially distinguished by name.) + +DZUM AND THE BARIT. + +While at dinner news was brought that Dzum was under the stern in a +canoe, shouting out loudly for Dzoka, and, on going up I found that he +had brought off the barit, which, after a great deal of trouble, I struck +a bargain for, and obtained. It was a very fine specimen of Cuscus +maculatus, quite tame, and kept in a large cage of split bamboo. Dzum +seemed very unwilling to part with the animal, and repeatedly enjoined me +to take great care of it and feed it well, which to please him I promised +to do, although I valued it merely for its skin, and was resolved to kill +it for that purpose at my first convenience. He had also brought a +basketful of yams of an inferior quality, as sea stock for the barit +during the voyage, and promised more on the following morning. + +ANCHOR OFF BRAMBLE CAY. + +December 16th. + +Two days ago we left Darnley Island for Bramble Cay, distant about thirty +miles North-East, but owing to calms and light winds had to anchor twice. +A strong North-West breeze which came on last night, and caused us to +drag the stream anchor, at length brought us up to our destination, near +which we anchored in 25 fathoms, sand, the island bearing North-West 1/2 +West distant a mile and a quarter. In the afternoon I landed for an hour, +passing many turtles on the water both going and returning. As usual the +islet was covered with seabirds, only two species, however, of which were +breeding. The Brown Booby (Sula fusca) and a large tern (Thalasseus +pelecanoides) existed in about equal numbers; the latter, in one great +colony, had laid their solitary large speckled eggs in a slight +excavation in the sand, the former were scattered all over the island, +and had regular nests of weed, containing either two eggs, or a single +young bird covered with white down. Well does the booby deserve its name. +The grotesque and stupid look of the old bird standing by its eggs or +young--irresolute whether to defend them or not, and staring with an +intensely droll expression at the intruders--is very amusing; at length +on being too closely approached, it generally disgorges the contents of +its stomach--consisting at this time of very fine flying-fish--and after +some half shuffling, half flying movements, manages to get on wing and be +off. As the tern's eggs were within a short time of being hatched we +broke all we saw in order to ensure some newly-laid ones in a day or two. + +CAPTURE MANY TURTLES. + +We remained at this anchorage for the two following days, during which +time the weather was generally gloomy and unsettled, with occasional +heavy rain. As numerous recent tracks of turtles upon the sandy beach +indicated that the season had not yet ended, parties were sent on shore +to watch for them after dark, and although only one was taken on the +first night, yet on the following not less than eighteen were secured and +brought off: fifteen of them were of the green, and three of the +hawksbill kind. The last, I believe, is undescribed: it is certainly not +the one (Caretta imbricata) producing the greater part of the +tortoise-shell of commerce, and which is not rare in Torres Strait, +distinguished by having the posterior angle of each dorsal plate +projecting, so as to give a serrated appearance to the margin of the +carapace which, in the present species is quite smooth. The green turtle +averaged 350 pounds each, and the hawksbills about 250 pounds. Although a +strong prejudice existed against the hawksbill as an article of food, we +all found reason to change our minds, and pronounce it to be at least +equal to the other. The newly-hatched turtles (all hawksbills) were +running about in every direction, and among their numerous enemies, I was +surprised to see a burrowing crab (Ocypoda cursor) which runs with great +swiftness along the sandy beaches. These crabs even carried off a plover +which I had shot, not allowing more than ten minutes to elapse before one +of them had it safely (as it thought) stowed away in its burrow. + +The golden plover was plentiful on the island during our visit, and one +afternoon I killed fifteen in about an hour. Two days after the terns' +eggs had been broken we found a small colony of laying birds, and picked +up some dozens of eggs; and had we remained a few days longer, doubtless +a very great number might have been procured. The weed which in the Fly +we used to call spinach (a species of Boerhaavia, apparently B. diffusa) +being abundant here, was at my suggestion collected in large quantity for +the use of the ship's company as a vegetable, but it did not seem to be +generally liked. + +December 21st. + +Two days ago we left Bramble Cay for Cape Possession in New Guinea, with +a fine breeze from the North-West, and next morning at daylight saw the +land about the Cape on the weather-beam. The wind, however, died away in +the afternoon, but this morning a light north-westerly breeze sprang up, +before which we bore up and were brought in the afternoon to an anchorage +in 11 fathoms, mud, half a mile to leeward of the Pariwara Islands. + +ARRIVE AT REDSCAR BAY. + +Meanwhile Lieutenant Yule, upon our destination being changed, was +ordered by signal to proceed to Cape Direction and survey the +intermediate space between that and Redscar Bay, in order to connect his +former continuation of the Fly's work with ours, and thus complete the +coastline of the whole of the south-east part of New Guinea. + +We remained at this anchorage for upwards of a week, during which a rate +for the chronometers was obtained, and the Bramble returned. + +WEATHER DURING WESTERLY MONSOON. + +The weather during our stay was very variable and unsettled; rain fell on +several occasions. The wind was usually from the westward, varying +between North-West and South-West, and on one occasion during the night +we had a sudden and very violent squall from the westward, which for a +time was thought to be the beginning of a hurricane, but the gale +moderated very gradually next day. When the wind during the day was light +and from seaward, a land breeze generally came off at night, occasionally +with rain. The cause of this last seems to be the influence exerted upon +the winds here by Mount Owen Stanley and the ranges connected with it, +from which the clouds accumulated during the prevalence of the seabreeze, +are reflected after its subsidence. The low and well wooded district +between the mountains and the sea receives the passing influence of these +clouds surcharged with moisture, and the climate there and in all the low +maritime districts of the south-east part of New Guinea backed by high +land, is probably always a moist one, little affected by the prevalence +of either the North-West or South-East monsoon. The observations made +during our last visit to determine the height of Mount Owen Stanley and +not considered very satisfactory, were repeated under more favourable +conditions, but with nearly the same result. This mountain, the highest +of the range of the same name, is somewhat flat-topped (as viewed from +our anchorage) about six miles in length, and the mean of five +observations from different stations gave 13,205 feet as the height of +the highest part above the level of the sea. + +PARIWARA ISLAND. + +On the largest Pariwara Island, although abundance of rain had fallen +lately, there was no water left in any pool or hole in the rock. Nor +although the soil, from the additional moisture, looked darker and richer +than during my former visit in September, was there any perceptible +improvement in the vegetation. A few fork-tailed red-fronted swallows +(Hirundo neoxena) were hawking about, and a large yellow and black +butterfly (Papilio epius, common in collections from India and China) was +abundant. Many Torres Strait pigeons were observed from the ship to +resort nightly to the second largest of the group, which is covered with +trees and seems quite inaccessible from the steepness of its low cliffs. +On several successive evenings about sunset, and until it became too dark +to distinguish them, immense numbers of frigate-birds were observed +flying over Redscar Head, and going out to the North-North-East. This +being a gregarious bird only when associated at a breeding place, and +there being no known sandbank or islet in the direction which they were +pursuing, rendered their object a subject for much conjecture. + +MANY NATIVES VISIT US. + +We were occasionally visited by parties of natives, chiefly coming from +the northward, probably from some of the large rivermouths known to exist +there. Although in bringing their women and children off to see the ship +they indicated little suspicion or fear, yet on one occasion only could +we induce any of the men to come on board, and the two who did so would +not be persuaded to go below, and made their stay very short. As I had +better opportunities of making observations upon these natives than +during our former visit, some additional information regarding them may +be given here. The inhabitants of Redscar Bay, judging from what was seen +alongside the ship, are rather smaller in stature than those seen at +Dufaure and Brumer Islands and the Louisiade, but perhaps more frequently +show handsome features and good expression. Neither were there any men +exceeding the rest in height by even three inches, as had often been the +case in other places. They are usually of a very light copper colour, but +one man was of a very pale yellow and much resembled a Chinaman in hue; +although it may at first appear strange, yet this pale-skinned individual +by his very colour excited feelings of disgust in the minds of some of +us, such as would be created by the sight of a person whose body was +covered with a loathsome eruption and who still publicly exposed it. And +why should not our pale faces be regarded by these savages in a similar +light? Some had perfect Malayan features, but none seen on this occasion +appeared to practice betel-chewing--a remarkable circumstance, since the +men who on our former visit came off to the ship, then only about fifteen +miles to the north-west, had their teeth discoloured. + +PIGTAILS AND TATTOOING. + +None of the natives had any hair upon the face; various ways of dressing +that of the head were practised, the most singular of which has already +been described in Volume 1. The hair was usually of its natural dark +colour at the base, with the remainder dyed reddish brown and frizzled +out into a mop with long-toothed combs of wood or tortoise-shell. One +child had the head so shaved as to leave a long tuft on the forehead, and +another on the back of the head--precisely in the same manner as is +sometimes practised in Java. Nor must I omit noticing a singular +appendage formerly alluded to--analogous to the pigtail once in +vogue--worn by many of these people; it is formed of human hair wrapped +round with twine, and ends in one or more bunches of shells, dogs' teeth, +and tails of pigs--the longest one which I saw measured twenty-one inches +in length. Among numerous ornaments the most common is a large round +concave portion of melon shell, sometimes beautifully inlaid with +filagree work of tortoise-shell, worn on the breast. Fillets of cassowary +feathers, fur of the spotted bare-tailed opossum, or woven stuff studded +with shells, were often seen. + +Painting the face or body does not seem to be practised here, but the men +are usually tattooed on the breast, cheeks, forehead, and arms, also +occasionally on other places. Their tattooing, however, is much fainter +and less profuse than among the women, every visible part of whose skin +is generally marked with a great variety of patterns, the most usual +style among them consisting in series of double parallel or converging +lines an inch or more apart, the intervals being occupied by small +figures, or irregular lines, with detached rectilinear figures fancifully +filled up. + +DRESS AND ARMS. + +The women wear a petticoat of shreds of pandanus leaf, plaited above into +a waistband and below reaching nearly to the knee. + +They brought off little with them for barter besides bows and arrows, and +as before appeared perfectly ignorant of the use of iron. A few coconuts, +plantains, and mangos were obtained from them, but they had no yams. +Nearly every canoe which came alongside contained several large baked +earthen pots of good construction, some with wide, others with narrow +mouths, and a third sort shaped like a saucer. Besides bows and arrows, +we saw many spears, mostly of small size and usually finely jagged or +barbed towards the end, but of very inferior workmanship, also some +shields, one of which may be described.* It measures 33 inches in length +by 14 in width, and in shape resembles a fiddle, being rounded at the +ends and slightly contracted in the middle; it is made of wood, +three-fourths of an inch thick, neatly covered with fine cane matting, +fitting very tightly. + +(*Footnote. Figured in volume 1.) + +SINGLE OR DOUBLE CANOES. + +The canoes seen here are either single or double, in the latter case +consisting merely of two lashed together, usually without an outrigger. +The single canoes vary in length from 20 to 30 feet, and carry from five +to a dozen people. Each end tapers to a sharp projecting point longer at +the bow. The outrigger frame consists of five poles laid across the +gunwale in grooves, and the float, which is rather less than half the +length of the body of the canoe, is secured to the ends of each by three +pegs, a foot in length. The opposite ends of the outrigger poles project +beyond the side only a few inches, and are secured by lashing of cane to +a piece crossing them; the gunwale is further strengthened by slender +poles running along it from end to end. A small portion only of the +outrigger frame is converted into a platform by a few loose poles or a +plank or two: some of the latter were as much as two feet in width, and +only an inch in thickness, and must have been cut with stone axes out of +a log of wood. The largest canoe seen was judged to be thirty-five feet +in length, with a width at the bow of four and a half feet, but this far +exceeded in bulk any of the other single ones. Like the rest it +essentially consisted of the hollowed-out trunk of a tree. All the heavy +canoes are pulled with oars, working in cane grommets, the others are +propelled with paddles. Both oars and paddles have lanceolate blades and +thick handles, without any attempt at ornament or even neatness of +design. + +The sail (of pandanus matting) is a long parallelogram, twelve feet by +three, its sides secured by two tough slender poles, between which it is +stretched, and which serve both as masts and yards. In making sail one of +the poles is shipped, two stays from the centre leading fore and aft are +then set up, after which the second pole is fixed and secured by stays, +so as to give the sail the requisite inclination. We frequently saw a +second smaller sail set before the first, at the distance of eight or ten +feet, and managed precisely in the same way, but, even with both sails +set, owing to the disproportion between the spread of canvas and the bulk +of the canoe, the latter moves slowly at all times, and on a wind makes +much leeway. + +SAIL FROM REDSCAR BAY. + +December 31st. + +We sailed yesterday from our anchorage in Redscar Bay, but did not clear +the sunken ridge of coral in the offing--a submarine extension of the +Barrier Reef, stretching between Low Island and the vicinity of +South-west Cape--until this forenoon, when we got out of soundings. The +Bramble is to remain behind for three or four weeks upon the coast, to +fill up various blanks in the chart between this and Rossel Island, while +we are to make the best of our way to the Duchateau Islands, to obtain a +meridian distance, and thence proceed direct to Sydney. + +January 6th, 1850. + +Our passage to the Duchateau Isles, a distance of less than 400 miles, +has been protracted by the prevalence of light winds, although these were +generally favourable, or from the westward. Occasional calms, squalls, +and rain occurred, but the weather generally was finer than during the +South-East monsoon. + +CLEARNESS OF THE ATMOSPHERE. + +As an instance of the clearness of the atmosphere, so different from what +we had usually experienced during our former visit to these shores, it +may be mentioned, that on one occasion during a light breeze from the +north-west we clearly saw Mount Yule (10,046 feet high) and the summit of +Mount Owen Stanley, distant respectively, one hundred and twenty, and +eighty miles from the ship. On this occasion also we had a full view of +the whole of Mount Astrolabe, which although 3,824 feet in greatest +height, and appearing to D'Urville as he ran past to be the highest land +on this portion of the coast, is rendered quite insignificant by the +lofty though distant range behind. Mount Astrolabe differs in character +from any other of the New Guinea mountains seen by us, indicating a +different geological formation. The summit extends thirteen miles, +running parallel with the coastline and distant from it about eight +miles. Viewed from the south-westward the outline is regular, exhibiting +a series of nearly flat tops with slight interruptions, but from the +southward it appears as a succession of terraces or projecting cliffs, +precipitous in front near the summit, with a long steep slope below, +probably of debris, while the flat top slopes backwards with a very +gentle declivity. Owen Stanley Range again presented quite a different +aspect as seen on the occasion alluded to, when nearly one half of its +whole length (300 miles) from Mount Yule to Heath Bay was in full view: +the outline was irregular but never suddenly so, and no peaks or other +remarkable points were seen. + +I may mention here in relation to this part of New Guinea, though not in +continuance of the narrative, that the Barrier Reef, beginning (or +ending) at Low Island, is continued to the southward and eastward for 150 +miles, as far as Cape Colombier, generally following the trend of the +coast, at a distance off it from three to fifteen miles. A long strip of +apparently navigable water is thus enclosed between the reef and the +shore, with numerous passages, many of which appeared to be clear to +Lieutenant Yule as he passed along close to the outer margin of the reef. + +HARBOURS INSIDE THE BARRIER REEF. + +Some good harbours doubtless exist here; the Bramble passed through +Roundhead Entrance and found good anchorage in fifteen fathoms +immediately inside. The whole of this extent of coast appeared to be well +peopled. On the western side of Mount Astrolabe, for instance, numerous +villages and patches of cultivated land were seen from the Bramble. + +THE SAGO PALM. + +Both in Redscar Bay and for the first two or three days after leaving it +numbers of sago palms, some quite recent, were observed on the water, +occasionally with boobies and noddies perched upon them. These trees had +probably grown upon the banks of the rivers of the bay, and been washed +away by the undermining of the low alluvial banks on which they grow, and +carried out to sea by the current. Along several of the freshwater +channels on the western side of the Great Bight examined by the Fly's +boats in 1844, I had seen this palm growing on the margin of the stream +in great profusion, and according to Giaom, the bisi tree (as she called +it) is occasionally carried by the winds and currents as far south as the +Prince of Wales Islands, when the natives scoop out the soft spongy inner +wood, wash it well with fresh water, beat it up into a pulp, separate the +farinaceous substance which falls to the bottom of the vessel, and bake +it as bread. On no part of the coast of New Guinea, however, did we ever +see any of this sago bread, which is known to constitute the principal +food of the inhabitants of the north-west coast of that great island.* + +(*Footnote. Forrest endeavours to show that an acre of ground planted +with 300 sago palms will maintain fourteen men, as each tree produces 300 +pounds of sago flour, when arrived at full maturity in its seventh year. +Voyage to New Guinea and the Moluccas in 1774 to 1776 by Captain Thomas +Forrest second edition page 44.) + +On one occasion lately the water was discoloured by a conferva resembling +the sea-sawdust of Captain Cook, with which it was found to agree +generically in consisting of long filaments joined together by a softer +gelatinous-looking substance. The present species, however, is six times +larger than the more common sort, some of which was mixed up with it, +their diameters as ascertained by Mr. Huxley, being respectively 8 1/2 +over 5000 and 1 1/8 over 5000 of an inch. + +Today we stood in for the Duchateau Isles, and, rounding them to the +westward, anchored in the afternoon in seventeen fathoms, with the +central island bearing south, distant one mile. + +SHOOTING PARTY ON DUCHATEAU ISLES. + +January 7th. + +Along with a shooting party I landed soon after daylight on the +westernmost Duchateau Island. Numbers of Nicobar pigeons left the island +as we approached, having apparently used it merely as a roosting-place. + +HABITS OF DUPERREY'S MEGAPODIUS. + +Heavy showers and thunderclouds passed over at intervals during the whole +morning, rendering our shooting not quite so successful as it might have +been; still we procured about fifty pigeons and a few of Duperrey's +megapodius. In habits this last bird resembles the Australian species, +especially in constructing enormous mounds for the reception of its eggs. +Those which I saw averaged five feet in height and fifteen in diameter, +and were composed of the sandy soil of the neighbourhood, mixed up with +rotten sticks and leaves, but without any shells or coral. Some were +placed on the outer margin of the thickets close to the beach, and others +were scattered about more inland. As several of these mounds showed +indications of having lately been opened by the birds, I entertained +hopes of being able to procure an egg, but after digging several pits +three feet in depth, with no more efficient implements than my hands, I +had to give up the work from sheer exhaustion. This bird is apparently +very pugnacious at times, as I frequently saw them chasing each other +along the ground, running with great swiftness, and uttering their cry +more loudly than usual, stopping short suddenly and again starting off in +pursuit. The cry consists of one or two shrill notes, uttered at +intervals and ending in a hurried tremulous cry repeated five or six +times. The noise made by this megapodius while scratching among the dead +leaves for food may sometimes be imitated with such success as to bring +the bird running up within gunshot. When suddenly forced to rise from the +ground it flies up into a tree, and remains there motionless, but +exceedingly vigilant, ready to start on the approach of anyone, but on +other occasions it trusts to its legs to escape. Its food is entirely +procured on the ground, and consists of insects and their larvae +(especially the pupae of ants) small snails, and various fallen seeds and +fruits. Although a great number of the Nicobar pigeons had left, many yet +remained, and the whole island resounded with their cry mixed up with the +cooing of the Nutmeg pigeon. Little skill is required in shooting these +birds, for they generally admit of very close approach, as if trusting to +the chance of being overlooked among the dense foliage. + +ARE VISITED BY NATIVES. + +January 8th. + +During the night a party of natives in five canoes came over from the +Calvados Group, and first attracted our attention by making several fires +on the middle and easternmost islands. Soon after daybreak they came +alongside in their usual boisterous manner. A few words of their language +which were procured proved to be of great interest by agreeing generally +with those formerly obtained at Brierly Island, while the numerals were +quite different and corresponded somewhat with those of my Brumer Island +vocabulary. Two of the canoes--one of which carried sixteen people--were +large and heavy and came off under sail, tacking outside of us and +fetching under the ship's stern. In these large canoes the paddles are of +proportionate size and very clumsy--they are worked as oars with the aid +of cane grommets--the sail is of the large oblong shape formerly +described. One of the canoes was furnished with a small stage above the +platform for the reception of a large bundle of coarse mats, six feet +long and two and a half broad, made by interlacing the leaflets of the +cocoa-palm; these mats are probably used in the construction of temporary +huts when upon a cruise. + +Although rather a better sample of the Papuan race than that which we had +lately seen at Redscar Bay, there was no marked physical distinction +between these inhabitants of the Louisiade and the New Guinea men. The +canoes, however, are as different as the language; here, as throughout +the Archipelago, the canoes have the semblance of a narrow coffin-like +box, resting upon a hollowed-out log, the bow having the two +characteristic ornaments of the tabura, or head-board, and the crest-like +carved woodwork running out along the beak. Some of the natives were +recognised as former visitors to the ship. Nearly all were painted, +chiefly on the face, the favourite pattern being series of white bars and +spots on a black ground. Except their ornaments and weapons, they had +little to give us for the iron hoop so much in request with them; only a +few coconuts, and scarcely any yams were obtained, and to the latter they +attached a much higher value than formerly. + +SAIL FOR SYDNEY. + +At length the natives left us, three canoes making to the northward, and +two returning to the Duchateau Isles. Morning observations for rating the +chronometers having been obtained, we got underweigh soon afterwards, +and, bidding farewell to the Louisiade Archipelago, commenced our voyage +to Sydney. + +Our daily average progress during the passage to Sydney (which occupied a +period of twenty-eight days) was less than fifty miles. The winds for the +first few days, or until beyond the influence of the land, were light and +variable, shifting between South-West and North-East by the northward, +and accompanied by occasional squalls and rain. It became a matter of +difficulty to determine when we got into the south-east trade; it was not +until we had reached latitude 20 degrees South that the wind--light on +the preceding day, but on this strong, with squalls and rain--appeared +steady between East-South-East and South-South-East and this carried us +down to Sandy Cape. + +REEFS OF THE CORAL SEA. + +In traversing the Coral Sea, the numerous detached reefs were so +carefully avoided that we saw none of them--thus in one sense it is to be +regretted that the passage through them of a surveying vessel, with +seventeen chronometers on board, was productive of no beneficial result +by determining the exact position of any one of these dangerous reefs, +most of which are only approximately laid down upon the charts.* + +(*Footnote. About this time a new reef was discovered during the passage +from Cape Deliverance to Sydney of H.M.S. Meander, Captain the Honourable +H. Keppel. While this sheet was passing through the press, I saw an +announcement of the total wreck upon Kenn Reef--one of those the position +of which is uncertain--of a large merchant ship, the passengers and crew +of which, 33 in number, fortunately however, succeeded in reaching +Moreton Bay in their boat--a distance of 400 miles.) + +PRACTICAL RESULTS OF THE SURVEY. + +The most important practical result of Captain Stanley's survey of the +Louisiade Archipelago and the south coast of New Guinea, was the +ascertaining the existence of a clear channel of at least 30 miles in +width along the southern shores of these islands, stretching east and +west between Cape Deliverance and the north-east entrance to Torres +Strait--a distance of about 600 miles. This space was so traversed by the +two vessels of the expedition without any detached reefs being +discovered, that it does not seem probable that any such exist there, +with the exception of the Eastern Fields of Flinders, the position and +extent of which may be regarded as determined with sufficient accuracy +for the purposes of navigation, and the reefs alluded to in Volume 1, +which, if they exist at all, and are not merely the Eastern Fields laid +down far to the eastward of their true position, must be sought for +further to the southward. The shores in question may now be approached +with safety, and vessels may run along them either by day or night under +the guidance of the chart--without incurring the risk of coming upon +unknown reefs, such as doubtless exist in other parts of the Coral Sea +further to the southward--judging from the occasional discovery of a new +one by some vessel which had got out of the beaten track. Whalers will no +doubt find it worth their while--with the characteristic enterprise of +their class--to push into those parts of the Coral Sea now first thrown +open to them, and, although we have not as yet sufficient grounds to +warrant the probability of success in the fishery, yet I may mention that +whales were seen on several occasions from both of our vessels. + +USEFUL PRODUCTIONS OF NEW GUINEA. + +This naturally originates the question--to what extent do the Louisiade +Archipelago and the south-east coast of New Guinea afford a field for +commercial enterprise? What description of trade can be established there +by bartering European goods for the productions of these countries? +Unfortunately at present most of the evidence on this point is of a +negative kind. Besides articles of food, such as pigs, yams, and +coconuts, and weapons and ornaments of no marketable +value--tortoise-shell, flax, arrowroot, massoy bark, and feathers of the +birds of paradise were seen by us, it is true, but in such small +quantities as to hold out at present no inducement for traders to resort +to these coasts for the purpose of procuring them. That gold exists in +the western and northern portions of New Guinea has long been known, that +it exists also on the south-eastern shores of that great island is +equally true, as a specimen of pottery procured at Redscar Bay contained +a few small laminar grains of this precious metal. The clay in which the +gold is embedded was probably part of the great alluvial deposit on the +banks of the rivers, the mouths of which we saw in that neighbourhood, +doubtless originating in the high mountains behind, part of the Owen +Stanley Range. + +It is evident, however, that our acquaintance with the productions of a +great extent of coastline upon which we never once landed must be very +slight, but with that little we must be content until some more complete +exploration of the shores, which were only cursorily examined, and +especially of the rivers of the Great Bight--which seem to offer a ready +means of penetrating far into the interior of New Guinea--shall have been +effected. That an expedition with this end in view will soon be +undertaken is, however, highly improbable, the survey of the Rattlesnake +having completed all that was requisite for the immediate purposes of +navigation in those parts. + +GEOLOGICAL REMARKS. + +The fact of the existence of several active volcanoes on islands +immediately adjacent to the north coast of New Guinea (first made known +by Dampier) and the circumstance of volcanic bands traversing the length +of many of the great islands of the Malayan Archipelago, and others as +far to the southward as New Caledonia and New Zealand, rendered it +extremely probable that we should have found indisputable signs of +comparatively recent volcanic action in the south-east part of New +Guinea. We saw no volcanoes, however, and the great central mountain +chain appeared to me to be probably granitic. The large Brumer Island is +composed of igneous rocks as formerly mentioned; and at Dufaure Island I +obtained from some canoes which came off to us a few smooth water-worn +pieces of hornblendic porphyry. Some specimens of obsidian, or volcanic +glass, were also procured from the natives at the latter place, where +sharp-edged fragments are used for shaving with; one variety is black, +another of a light reddish-brown, with dark streaks. Mount Astrolabe is +apparently of trap formation, as I have already stated. Some conical +hills scattered along the coast may possibly be of volcanic origin, +especially one of that form rising to the height of 645 feet from the +lowland behind Redscar Head. It is in this neighbourhood also that we +find the upraised calcareous rocks of modern date exhibited by the +Pariwara Islands and the neighbouring headland, with which they were +probably once continuous; near this, too, the barrier reef of the coast +ceases at Low Island, which it encloses, although its line is continued +under water, as a ridge of coral, as far as the South-west Cape, where +the coral ends, unless the shoals apparently blocking up the channel +south of Yule Island are of the same formation. + +LOUISIADE ARCHIPELAGO. + +Reference to the outline chart will enable the reader to follow me in +some general remarks which did not properly enter into the narrative. The +Louisiade Archipelago, reduced to what I conceive to be its natural +limits, includes that extensive group of islands comprised between the +parallels of 10 degrees 40 minutes and 11 degrees 40 minutes South +latitude, and the meridians of 151 degrees and 154 degrees 30 minutes +East longitude. About eighty are already known, and probably many others +remain yet to be discovered in the north-west, a large space there being +as yet a blank upon the chart. All the islands of the group, with the +exception of the low ones of coral formation to the westward, appear to +be inhabited, but probably nowhere very densely, judging from the +comparatively small number of natives which we saw, and the circumstance +of the patches of cultivation being small and scattered, while the +greater part of the large islands is either covered with dense forest, or +exhibits extensive grassy tracts with lines and clumps of trees. Such of +the islands as were examined consisted of mica slate, the line of +direction of the beds of which is nearly the same as that of the +Archipelago itself, and the physical appearance of the other islands +leads me to believe that the same rock prevails there also. + +CORAL REEFS OF THE LOUISIADE ARCHIPELAGO DESCRIBED. + +One of the most remarkable features connected with the Louisiade +Archipelago is the manner in which its shores are protected by the coral +reefs which have frequently been alluded to above. The principal of these +are good examples of that kind distinguished by the name of barrier +reefs. Rossel Reef has already been described, and the only other large +one of this description which we saw more than a portion of, is that +partially encircling South-east Island at a variable distance from the +land, then passing to the westward as far as longitude 152 degrees 40 +minutes, where it ceases to show itself above water; thence, however, the +edge of a bank of soundings (represented on the chart by a dotted line) +which is suddenly met with in coming from the deep blue unfathomed water +to the southward, can be traced in a continued line to the westward as +far as the Jomard Isles, whence it turns round to the northward for ten +miles further, where our examination ended. This last may be considered +as a submarine extension of the barrier, which probably reappears again +above water, and passing to the northward of the Calvados Group, reaches +as far as the northern entrance to Coral Haven, enclosing nearly all the +high islands of the Archipelago. The expanse of water inside when not +occupied by land usually exhibits a depth of from 15 to 30 fathoms, with +numerous sunken patches of coral, and several reefs which partially dry +at low-water. The shores of the islands also are generally protected by +fringing coral reefs, the largest of which is that extending off the west +and south side of Piron Island to a distance of seven or eight miles, +with a well defined border towards Coral Haven. + +At the western portion of the Louisiade Archipelago the reefs seen by us +exhibit great irregularity of outline, continuity, and width. Some are +linear reefs, others atolls* more or less distinct in character, and the +remainder are usually round or oval. Viewed as a whole they form an +interrupted chain, with numerous deepwater channels, which terminates in +the West Barrier Reef of the chart but is connected with the coast of New +Guinea by a bank of soundings, with, probably, a well-defined margin. +Many low, wooded islands are scattered along this line. I know of no +distinguishing feature presented by the coral reefs of the Louisiade +compared with those which I have seen elsewhere. One remarkable +occurrence, however, connected with them, may be mentioned. While passing +in the ship the most northern point of Rossel Island, I observed upon the +reef, about a hundred yards inside its outer border, a series of enormous +insulated masses of dead coral rising like rocks from the shallow water. +The largest of these, examined through a good telescope from the distance +of half a mile, was about twenty feet in length and twelve in height, +with a well-defined high-water mark. It formed quite a miniature island, +with tufts of herbage growing in the clefts of its rugged sides, and a +little colony of black-naped terns perched upon the top as if incubating. + +(*Footnote. "An atoll differs from an encircling barrier reef only in the +absence of land within its central expanse; and a barrier reef differs +from a fringing reef in being placed at a much greater distance from the +land with reference to the probable inclination of its submarine +foundation, and in the presence of a deep water lagoon-like space or moat +within the reef." The Structure and Distribution of Coral Reefs by +Charles Darwin page 146.) + +THEORY OF THEIR FORMATION. + +I had only once before seen a similar exhibition of such great and +permanently elevated masses of dead coral upon a living reef--a +phenomenon of much interest in connection with Mr. Darwin's theory of the +mode of formation of coral reefs. This was on a portion of the Great +Barrier Reef of Australia, visited in company with Mr. Jukes, who has +published a detailed account of it.* In both cases the only obvious +explanation is that these huge blocks--too massive to have been hove up +from deep water into their present position by any storm--reached their +present level by the elevation of the sea bottom on which they were +formed. + +(*Footnote. Voyage of H.M.S. Fly by J.B. Jukes volume 1 page 340.) + +Before quitting the subject of the coral reefs of the Louisiade I may be +permitted to express my conviction of the perfect manner in which many, +perhaps all of the appearances which they present may be satisfactorily +accounted for by the application of Mr. Darwin's theory. We have only to +presume the whole of the Archipelago to have once formed part of New +Guinea--a supposition highly probable in itself (suggested even by a +careful examination of the large charts) and strengthened by the total +absence of signs of volcanic agency in what the theory in question would +require to be an area of subsidence as opposed to those of elevation, +such as are known to exist in parts of New Guinea. + +ETHNOLOGY OF NEW GUINEA. + +The ethnology of New Guinea is involved in so much confusion and +obscurity for the want of sufficient data, that even with the aid of some +additional recently acquired information bearing upon the subject, I wish +the following brief remarks to be regarded more as probable assumptions +than as views the correctness of which admits of demonstration. Besides, +to give all the proofs, such as they are, would cause much repetition of +what has been already stated above. + +I must premise that most of our previous definite information regarding +the inhabitants of New Guinea applies only to a small portion of the +north-west coast of that great island in the neighbourhood of Port Dorey, +which is known to be peopled by several distinct varieties of mankind, of +which one (with which, as occupying the coast, we are best acquainted) is +designated the Papuan, or Papua, as generally understood by that +appellation when used in its restricted signification. These Papuans, +according to Dumont D'Urville,* compose the principal part of the +population of Port Dorey, and, judging from his description, I have no +hesitation in referring to them also the inhabitants of the Louisiade +Archipelago and the South-East coast of New Guinea, and agree with +Prichard (in opposition to the views of others) that they "constitute a +genuine and peculiar tribe."** + +(*Footnote. Voyage de l'Astrolabe tome 4 page 603.) + +(**Footnote. Researches into the Physical History of Mankind volume 5 +page 227.) + +NATIVES OF NORTH-WEST COAST. + +Another variety among the inhabitants of Port Dorey, spoken of by M. +d'Urville as the Harfours, is supposed by him to include, along with +another race of which little is known--named Arfaki--the indigenous +inhabitants of the north-west part of New Guinea. The Harfours, +Haraforas, or Alforas, for they have been thus variously named, have +often been described as inhabiting the interior of many of the large +islands of the Malayan Archipelago, but, as Prichard remarks, "nothing +can be more puzzling than the contradictory accounts which are given of +their physical characters and manners. The only point of agreement +between different writers respecting them is the circumstance that all +represent them as very low in civilisation and of fierce and sanguinary +habits."* Their distinctness as a race has been denied with much apparent +reason by Mr. Earl, and they are considered by Prichard to be merely +various tribes of the Malayo-Polynesian race retaining their uncivilised +and primitive state. Be this as it may, of these Harfours D'Urville +states, that they reminded him of the ordinary type of the Australians, +New Caledonians, and the black race of Oceania, from their sooty colour, +coarse but not woolly hair, thick beards, and habit of scarifying the +body. I mention these Harfours for the purpose of stating that no people +answering to the description of them given above were seen by us in New +Guinea or the Louisiade Archipelago. + +(*Footnote. Ibid page 255.) + +VARIETIES OF THE PAPUAN RACE AND THEIR DISTRIBUTION. + +It appears to me that there are two distinct varieties of the Papuan race +inhabiting the south-east portion of New Guinea. The first occupies the +western shores of the Great Bight, and probably extends over the whole of +the adjacent country, along the banks of Aird River, and the other great +freshwater channels. Judging from the little that was seen of them during +the voyage of the Fly, these people appear to agree with the Torres +Strait Islanders--an offshoot, there is reason to believe, of the same +stock--in being a dark and savage race, the males of which go entirely +naked. + +The second variety occupies the remainder of the south-east coast of New +Guinea and the Louisiade Archipelago. Their characteristics have already +been given in this work, as seen at intermediate points between Cape +Possession and Coral Haven; they agree in being a lighter-coloured people +than the preceding, and more advanced in civilisation: mop-headed, +practising betel-chewing, and wearing the breech-cloth. Without entering +into the question of their supposed origin, I may state that, in some of +their physical, intellectual, and moral characters, and also partially in +their language, they seem to me to show indications of a +Malayo-Polynesian influence, probably acquired before their arrival in +New Guinea, along the shores of which they seem to have extended, +colonising the Louisiade during their progress, which at Cape Possession +was finally arrested by their meeting with the other section of the race +alluded to in the preceding paragraph. + +It would be curious to see the effects produced at the point of junction +of these two sections of the same race, probably somewhere between Aird +River and Cape Possession. It is not unlikely that the Papuans of Redscar +Bay and its vicinity derived the use of the bow and arrow from their +neighbours to the westward--and that the kind of canoe in use in Torres +Strait was an introduction from the eastward, is rendered +probable--setting aside other considerations--by a circumstance suggested +by the vocabularies, i.e. that the name for the most characteristic part +of the canoe in question--the outrigger float--is essentially the same +from the Louisiade to Cape York.* + +(*Footnote. +Louisiade: Sama. +Darnley Island: Charima. +Dufaure Island: Sarima. +Prince of Wales Islands: Sarima. +Redscar Bay: Darima. +Cape York: Charima.) + +I have alluded in a preceding part of this work (Volume 1) to the +circumstance that the small vocabulary obtained at the Louisiade may, +along with others, throw some light upon the question: whence has +Australia been peopled? + +ORIGIN OF THE AUSTRALIAN RACE. + +It may safely be assumed that the aborigines of the whole of Australia +(exclusive of Van Diemen's Land) have had one common origin; in physical +character the natives of Cape York seem to me to differ in no material +respect from those of New South Wales, South or Western Australia, or +Port Essington,* and, I believe I am borne out by facts in stating that +an examination of vocabularies and grammars (more or less complete) from +widely remote localities, still further tends to prove the unity of the +Australian tribes as a race. + +(*Footnote. M. Hombron (attached to D'Urville's last expedition as +surgeon and naturalist) considers--as the result of personal +observation--that the aborigines of New South Wales exhibit certain +points of physical difference from those of the North Coast of Australia, +meaning, I suppose, by the latter, those natives seen by him at Raffles +Bay and Port Essington. I may also mention that M. Hombron considers the +Northern Australians to be a distinct subdivision of the Australian race, +in which he also classes the inhabitants of the smaller islands of Torres +Strait (as Warrior Island for instance) attributing the physical +amelioration of the latter people to the fact of their possessing +abundant means of subsistence afforded by the reefs among which they +live, and the necessity of possessing well constructed canoes as their +only means of procuring fish and dugong, stated by him to constitute the +chief food of the Torres Strait islanders. Voyage au Pole Sud, etc. +Zoologie tome 1 par M. Hombron pages 313, 314 et 317.) + +The two places from one of which the Australian population may be +supposed to have been more IMMEDIATELY derived, are Timor on the one hand +and New Guinea on the other: in the former case the first settlers would +probably have landed somewhere on the north-west coast, in the latter, at +Cape York. + +Mr. Eyre believes that there are "grounds sufficient to hazard the +opinion that Australia was first peopled on its north-western coast, +between the parallels of 12 and 16 degrees South latitude. From whence we +might surmise that three grand divisions had branched off from the parent +tribe, and that from the offsets of these the whole continent has been +overspread."* Proceeding still further Mr. Eyre has very ingeniously +attempted to explain the gradual peopling of Australia, and even indicate +the probable routes taken by the first settlers during the long periods +of years which must have elapsed before the whole continent was overrun +by the tribes now collectively forming the Australian race. Dr. Prichard, +when alluding to the probable mode of dispersion of the black tribes of +the Indian Archipelago, conjectures that one of the branches during the +migratory march probably passed from Java to Timor, and from thence to +Australia.** Dr. Latham also inclines to the belief that Australia was +peopled from Timor and not from New Guinea, judging, in the absence of +positive proof, from the probability that "occupancy had begun in +Australia before migration across Torres Strait had commenced in New +Guinea," inferred "from the physical differences between the Australian +and the Papuan, taken with the fact that it is scarcely likely that the +Papuans of Torres Strait would have failed in extending themselves in +Australia had that island been unoccupied." Timor also is much nearer +than New Guinea to the REMOTE source--assumed to be the continent of +Asia--whence the Australians have been derived.*** + +(*Footnote. Journals of Expeditions of Discovery into Central Australia +etc. by E.J. Eyre Volume 2 page 405.) + +(**Footnote. Researches into the Physical History of Mankind Volume 5 +page 214.) + +(***Footnote. Natural History of the Varieties of Man by R.G. Latham, +M.D. pages 257 and 253.) + +The unity of the Australian race being admitted implies one common +origin, and that such was not derived from New Guinea, can scarcely, I +think, be doubted. Upon examining the neighbourhood of the point of +contact between the New Guinea-men and the Australians, we find Cape York +and the neighbouring shores of the mainland occupied by genuine and +unmixed Australians, and the islands of Torres Strait with the adjacent +coast of New Guinea by equally genuine Papuans; intermediate in position +between the two races, and occupying the point of junction at the Prince +of Wales Islands we find the Kowrarega tribe of blacks. At first I was +inclined to regard the last more as degraded Papuans than as improved +Australians: I am now, however, fully convinced that they afford an +example of an Australian tribe so altered by contact with the Papuan +tribes of the adjacent islands as at length to resemble the latter in +most of their physical, intellectual and moral characteristics. Thus the +Kowraregas have acquired from their island neighbours the art of +cultivating the ground, and their superior dexterity in constructing and +navigating large canoes, together with some customs--such as that of +preserving the skulls of their enemies as trophies: while they retain the +use of the spear and throwing-stick, practise certain mysterious +ceremonies connected with the initiation of boys to the rights of +manhood--supposed to be peculiar to the Australian race--and hold the +females in the same low and degraded position which they occupy +throughout Australia. + +That the Kowraregas settled the Prince of Wales Islands either prior to +or nearly simultaneously, with the spreading downwards from New Guinea of +the Papuans of the islands, scarcely admits of absolute proof: but that +the former have existed as a tribe for a long period of years is shown by +the changes which I presume to have taken place in their language. While +this last unquestionably belongs to the Australian class, as clearly +indicated by Dr. Latham's analysis of the pronouns,* one of the +characteristic parts of the language, and, therefore, least liable to +change, yet the occurrence in the Kowrarega of a considerable number of +words resembling and often identical with those of the known Papuan +languages of Torres Strait,** and which I believe to have been derived +from the latter, seems to indicate a degree of long-continued intercourse +between the two races: for changes in language to so great an extent are +not effected in a short space of time any more than the nearly complete +fusion of two different races which has evidently taken place at the +Prince of Wales Islands. Scarcely opposible to this supposition is the +extreme improbability that the Papuans, who had nothing to gain from so +comparatively inferior a race as the Australian, should be indebted to +the latter for the words common to both found to exist in the Kowrarega +and Miriam languages. + +(*Footnote. See the Appendix.) + +(**Footnote. As means of comparison I used the Darnley and Murray Island +vocabulary given in Jukes' Voyage of the Fly, also a manuscript one of my +own, which furnishes some additional particulars; some words from Massid +given by Jukes; and a few from Mount Ernest procured by myself.) + +Another mode of procedure suggests itself to one endeavouring to trace +the proximate origin of the Australians--and that is, to search the +records of voyagers and others for any traces of such customs, the use of +certain implements, etc., as are supposed to be most characteristic of +these people. Yet, taking, for example, the boomerang* and +throwing-stick,** we find nothing approaching to either of these +instruments in any part of New Guinea yet visited by Europeans: in the +absence of any evidence to the contrary from Timor, they may be +considered as true Australian inventions; and assuming the Australians to +be the descendants of a colony from Timor, the circumstance of the +natives of Melville Island--a part of Australia distant only 200 miles +from their presumed place of origin--being ignorant of the use of the +throwing-stick, is in favour of part of this supposition. But a thorough +investigation of the question of the origin of the Australian race, and +their dispersion over the continent, although NOW I believe rendered +quite practicable by the great mass of additional information contributed +by voyagers and travellers since Mr. Eyre wrote upon the subject, is not +consistent with the objects of this work. + +(*Footnote. Some of the fowling-sticks of the ancient Egyptians closely +resemble the boomerang in form and appear to have been used in a similar +manner, but I am not aware that anything approaching it has been seen +elsewhere. A specimen which suggested this remark is exhibited in the +British Museum Egyptian Room Case 36, 37 Number 5646.) + +(**Footnote. The throwing-stick is completely represented in the Aleutian +Islands (See in Ethnographical Room of British Museum, a specimen in case +16): in shape it differs from the Australian ones (which themselves vary +in different localities) but the principle of construction and mode of +use are precisely the same. In the islands of Tanna and New Caledonia a +contrivance is in use to produce the same effect as the throwing-stick in +propelling the spear; but, apart from other considerations, the nature of +the instrument (a piece of stiff plaited cord six inches long, with an +eye in one end and a knot at the other) is such as quite to preclude the +probability of the Australians having derived their throwing-stick from +this source.) + + +CHAPTER 2.3. + +Death of Captain Stanley. +Sail for England. +Arrive at the Bay of Islands. +Kororareka. +Falls of the Keri-Keri. +Passage across the South Pacific. +Oceanic birds. +Stay at the Falkland Islands. +Settlement of Stanley. +Call at Berkeley Sound. +Lassoing cattle. +Resume our homeward voyage. +Call at Horta in the Azores. +The caldeira of Fayal. +Arrive in England. + +Soon after our arrival in Sydney we had to lament the loss of our much +respected commander, who died suddenly on March 13th, while apparently +convalescent from a severe illness contracted during our last +cruise--induced, I understand, by long continued mental anxiety, and the +cares necessarily devolving upon the leader of an expedition such as +ours, of which probably no one who has not been similarly situated can +ever fully comprehend the responsibility. Thus died at the early age of +thirty-nine, but after the successful accomplishment of the chief objects +of his mission, Captain Owen Stanley, who had long before won for himself +an honourable name in that branch of the naval service to which he had +devoted himself, and whose reputation as a surveyor and a man of science +stood deservedly high. Although it would ill become me as a civilian +attached to the expedition to enter upon the services* and professional +character of my late captain, yet in common with many others, I cannot +refrain from adding my humble testimony to his worth, by recording my +deep sense of many personal favours, and the assistance which was always +liberally rendered me during my natural history investigations throughout +the voyage, whenever the more important objects of the survey permitted. + +(*Footnote. See O'Byrne's Naval Biographical Dictionary page 1109.) + +By this unfortunate event all previous arrangements regarding our future +proceedings were anulled. It had been intended by Captain Stanley to +return to England by way of Singapore and the Cape of Good Hope, adding +to the charts of the Inner Passage as we went along the east coast of +Australia, and making a careful survey of the Strait of Alass, between +the islands of Lombock and Sumbawa. Captain the Honourable Henry Keppel +of H.M.S. Meander, as senior naval officer present, having appointed +Lieutenant Yule to the vacancy in the command of the Rattlesnake, with +orders to proceed direct to England, we left Sydney for that purpose on +May 2nd. The Bramble was left behind in the colony, and in addition to +her former crew, the limited accommodations of our ship were still +further crowded with the greater number of the Port Essington marines, +some invalids, and other passengers, making up the number on board to +upwards of 230 persons. + +A course was steered to pass to the northward of New Zealand without +calling there, but shortly after leaving Sydney some defects in the ship +were found out, which rendered it necessary to put into the nearest port, +as the principal one, causing a leak in the after gunroom, could not be +repaired at sea. It was also considered expedient to get rid of the Asp +in order to lessen the straining of the ship during the prospective +passage round Cape Horn, which so much top weight was considered +materially to increase. On May 14th the land about Cape Maria Van Diemen +and the North Cape of New Zealand was in sight at daylight, appearing +high and mountainous, with steep maritime cliffs. On our passage across +from Australia we had seen few seabirds, but now albatrosses of three or +four species were very numerous, together with a few petrels, chiefly +Procellaria cookii. Next morning we found ourselves to leeward of Cape +Brett, having experienced a southerly current during the night of two +knots an hour; it took us the whole day to work up into the Bay of +Islands, and after dark we anchored in 28 fathoms, about six miles from +the entrance of the Kawa-Kawa. + +May 16th. + +The view from our anchorage, although under the favourable conditions of +fine weather, struck me as being dull and cheerless. The surface of the +country is hilly and undulating, showing patches of wood more or less +extensive, and large tracts of fern of a dull greenish hue. The shores of +the mainland and the numerous islands exhibit every here and there +argillaceous cliffs, and banks of a brown, reddish, or yellow colour, +from their steepness almost devoid of vegetation. In the morning it was a +dead calm, but at length a light air sprang up and carried us into the +bay of Kororareka, when we anchored in 4 1/2 fathoms, mud and sand, off +the village of the same name, also known as the township of Russell. + +May 17th. + +On landing at Kororareka, one finds that what from a distance appear neat +and comfortable cottages lose much by close inspection. The township +consists of about thirty small wooden houses, mixed up with many native +hovels. It extends along the shore of a small bay, with a shingly beach +in front and a swamp behind. The number of houses was formerly much +greater, most of those now existing having been built since May 1845, +when the greater part of the town was burnt down by the natives. Even now +it supports two public houses, and several general stores, where +necessaries may be procured at double the Sydney prices. At one time much +trade was done here, before the duties imposed on the occasion of New +Zealand becoming a British colony drove away the whalers which used to +resort in great numbers to the Bay of Islands to refit; at present, +besides the Rattlesnake, the only vessel here is a brig from Hobart, +bound to California, which put in to this place to get a new rudder. +Livestock is plentiful and the prices are moderate. + +There are many natives living in the settlement. They afford a striking +contrast to the wretched specimens of Australian aborigines one +occasionally sees in the streets of Sydney. Many of the men are athletic +and well made, and in their gait and expression exhibit much manliness of +character. The faces of some of the principal people present good +specimens of elaborate tattooing. The women appear strange figures from +their ungainly modern dress, consisting merely of a loose smock of +calico, fastened at the neck and wrists. Some were tolerably handsome +(according to our notions of female beauty) and among them were several +halfcastes. Their fashion of dressing the hair is curious--in front it is +cut short in a line across the forehead, but is allowed to grow long +behind. We met Waka Nene, a Maori chief, possessing considerable +influence, especially in the neighbouring district of Hokianga, who, by +siding with the English during the war, rendered such important services +that the Government rewarded him with a pension of 100 pounds per annum, +and a house in Kororareka. Besides this he owns a small vessel or two +employed in the coasting trade. I peeped into the hut of one of his +people. A small entrance served the combined purposes of door, window, +and chimney, the roof was so low as to preclude one from standing upright +inside, a small fire was burning in the centre of the earthen floor, and +a heap of mats and blankets in one corner pointed out a sleeping-place. + +Behind Kororareka one of a series of hills overlooking the town is +memorable as the site of the flagstaff, the cutting down of which by Heke +was one of the first incidents of the Maori war. On March 11th, 1845, an +attack was made upon the place before daylight, by three of the +disaffected chiefs. Kawiti with one division entered the town from the +southward by a pass between two hills, and after a short conflict forced +a party of marines and seaman from H.M.S. Hazard to retire with the loss +of seven killed and many wounded. While this work was going on, a small +detachment of soldiers occupying a blockhouse on the flagstaff hill was +surprised by Heke and his party, who killed four men, and drove away the +remainder, and levelled the flagstaff to the ground. The English +residents took refuge on board the shipping, and two days afterwards the +Maoris sacked and burned the town with the exception of the two churches, +and a few houses contiguous to the property of the Roman Catholic +Mission. + +The greater part of the country about the town is covered with fern and +the manuka bush (Leptospermum scoparium) the latter a low shrub with +handsome white or pinkish flowers. In some of the ravines two species of +tree-ferns of the genus Cyathea grow luxuriantly in the moist clayey +soil. Everywhere one sees common English weeds scattered about, +especially the sow-thistle and common dock, and a British landshell +(Helix cellaria) has even found its way to New Zealand and is to be met +with in some of the gardens. + +Much rain had lately fallen, and many of the paths were partially +converted into watercourses. I walked across to a neighbouring bay, and +employed myself in searching for shells in the mud at low-water. Some +bivalves, common there--various Cythereae and Mesodesma +chemnitzii--constitute an important article of food to the natives, who +knew them by the name of pipi. A marshy place, at the mouth of a small +stream, was tenanted by a curious wrinkled univalve, with a notch on the +outer lip, Amphibola avellana of conchologists. + +May 18th. + +I joined a party made up to visit the falls of the Keri-Keri river, and +we started, after an early breakfast, in one of the ship's boats. The +morning was dull and rainy, and we had occasional showers during the +forenoon. In an hour after leaving the ship we entered the estuary of the +river, a large arm of the sea, which we followed for several miles. The +scenery reminded me of that of some of the sea lochs on the west coast of +Scotland, and although fern was here substituted for heath, the Scotch +mist was perfectly represented at the antipodes. The country is scantily +wooded, and the muddy shores are occasionally fringed with a small +mangrove (Avicennia tomentosa). Here and there were a few settlers' +houses, with the accompanying signs of cultivation. One of the small +islands, and also a hilltop on the northern shore, had an artificial +appearance, their summits being leveled and the sides scarped--they were +the remains of former fortified villages or pahs. At length the estuary +narrowed, and assumed the appearance of a winding river, with low hilly +banks covered with fern and bushes. One and a half miles from this +brought us to a rocky ledge across the stream, preventing further +progress in the boat, and marking the junction of the fresh and salt +water. + +Here Mr. Kemp, a schoolmaster of the Church Mission Society, has been +located for upwards of thirty years. A well built store, a neat cottage +and garden, and residences for a few Maoris, complete the establishment. +From this place a dray-road leads to the extensive Missionary +establishment at Waimate, distant about ten miles. Crossing the river, we +started for the falls, in charge of a sharp little urchin who acted as +guide. After leaving the narrow valley which the river has cut for itself +through a superstratum of yellowish clay, the country becomes nearly +level--a dreary plain, covered with fern and the manuka bush. The +extensive tract of country now in sight is said to have once been a great +kauri forest--a few of these noble trees (Dammara australis) were pointed +out to me from a distance. When about halfway we left the road, and +within the distance of a mile our guide contrived to lead us into five or +six bogs, where we were up to our knees in water, besides entangling us +in several thickets nearly as bad to penetrate as an Australian scrub. At +length we arrived in sight of the waterfall, then in full force from the +quantity of rain which had lately fallen. + +The Keri-Keri, after a long course through a country composed chiefly of +upland moors and gently undulating hills, here suddenly precipitates +itself over a rocky wall into a large circular pool eighty feet below, +then continues its course for a while between steep and densely wooded +banks. Behind the fall the rock is hollowed out into a wide and deeply +arched cave, formed by the falling out of masses of columnar rock. A +winding path leads to the foot of the fall, whence the view is very +grand. Some of the party crept over the slippery rocks, and reached the +cave behind the fall, where they were much gratified with the novelty of +the scene. The luxuriant and varied vegetation in the ravine affords a +fine field for the botanist. The variety of cryptogamic plants is very +great--every rock, and the trunk of each tree, being covered with ferns, +lichens, and mosses. Among the trees I noticed the pale scarlet flowers +of the puriri or New Zealand Teak (Vitex littoralis) the hardest* and +most durable of all the woods of the country. A short search among the +damp stones and moss brought to light some small but interesting +landshells, consisting of a pupiform Cyclostoma, a Carocolla, and five +species of Helix. This leads me to mention, that although the number of +New Zealand landshells hitherto described scarcely exceeds a dozen, this +does not imply any scarcity of such objects in the country, as an +industrious collector from Sydney, who spent nine months on the northern +and middle islands, obtained nearly a hundred species of terrestrial and +fluviatile mollusca. The scarcity of birds during our walk surprised me, +for the only one which I saw on shore was a solitary kingfisher (Halcyon +vagans): during our ascent of the Keri-Keri, however, many ducks (Anas +superciliosa) flew past the boat, and gulls, terns, and two kinds of +cormorants were numerous. + +(*Footnote. This wood was much used in the construction of the pahs +which, in 1845, under the Maori chiefs Heke and Kawiti, long resisted the +attacks of disciplined forces, aided by artillery. In reference to the +puriri wood used in the palisading of one of these, it was officially +stated, that "many of our six-pound shot were picked out of the posts, +not having actually entered far enough to hide themselves.") + +Returning to the road by a path which avoided the swamps our guide had +taken us through, in little more than half an hour we reached Mr. Kemp's +house, and after partaking of that gentleman's hospitality returned to +the ship. On our way we landed at sunset for an hour upon a small island, +which will probably long be remembered by some of the party as having +furnished us with a supper of very excellent rock-oysters. + +Having effected the necessary repairs, and disposed of the decked boat, +we left New Zealand on May 22nd on our homeward passage. On July 5th +having passed to the eastward of Cape Horn we bore up for the Falkland +Islands, having taken forty-three days to traverse a direct distance of a +little more than 5000 miles. During this period the wind was usually +strong from the south-west, but on various occasions we experienced calms +and easterly winds, the latter varying between North-East and +South-South-East and at times blowing very hard with snow squalls. The +lowest temperature experienced by us off Cape Horn was on the day when we +doubled the Cape in latitude 57 degrees South when the minimum +temperature of the day was 21 and the maximum 26 degrees. This reminded +some of us that we had now passed through not less than 75 degrees of +temperature in the ship, the thermometer in the shade having indicated 96 +degrees during a hot wind in Sydney harbour. + +A passage such as ours, during which at one time we were further from +land than if placed in any other portion on the globe, must almost of +necessity be a monotonous one. We saw no land, not even an iceberg, and +very few vessels. For five or six successive evenings when in the +parallels of 40 and 41 degrees South between the meridians of 133 and 113 +degrees West we enjoyed the fine sight of thousands of large Pyrosomae in +the water, each producing a greater body of light than I ever saw given +out by any other of the pelagic-luciferous mollusca or medusae. The +towing net was put over on several occasions but produced little or +nothing to repay Mr. Huxley for his trouble: so that even a naturalist +would here find his occupation gone were it not for the numbers of +oceanic birds daily met with, the observation of whose habits and +succession of occurrence served to fill up many a leisure hour. It being +the winter of the southern hemisphere, the members of the petrel family, +at other times so abundant in the South Pacific, were by no means so +numerous as I had expected to find them, and in the higher southern +latitudes which we attained before rounding Cape Horn, albatrosses had +altogether disappeared, although they had been abundant as far to the +southward as 41 degrees South. The most widely dispersed were Daption +capensis--the pintado or Cape-pigeon of voyagers--Procellaria hasitata, +P. coerulea, P. lessonii, and P. gigantea, of which the first and second +were the most numerous and readily took a bait towing astern. It is +probable that all these species make the circuit of the globe, as they +are equally distributed over the South Indian Ocean. Some interesting +additions were made to the collection of Procellariadae (commenced near +the equator with Thalassidroma leachii) and before leaving the Falklands +I had captured and prepared specimens of twenty-two species of this +highly interesting family, many members of which until the publication of +Mr. Gould's memoir* were either unknown or involved in obscurity and +confusion. Among these is one which merits special notice here, a small +blue petrel, closely resembling P. coerulea, from which it may readily be +distinguished by wanting the white tips to the central tailfeathers. It +turns out to be the P. desolata, known only by a drawing in the British +Museum made more than half a century ago, from which this species was +characterised. When in latitude 50 degrees 46 minutes South and longitude +97 degrees 47 minutes West I saw P. antarctica for the first time; one or +two individuals were in daily attendance while rounding Cape Horn and +followed the ship until we sighted the Falkland Islands. I had long been +looking out for P. glacialoides, which in due time made its appearance--a +beautiful light grey petrel, larger than a pigeon; it continued with us +between the latitudes of 40 and 58 degrees South and occasionally pecked +at a baited hook towing astern. + +(*Footnote. Magazine and Annals of Natural History for 1844 page 360.) + +One may naturally wonder what these petrels can procure for food in the +ocean to the southward of 35 degrees south latitude, where they are +perhaps more numerous than elsewhere, and where the voyager never sees +any surface-swimming fishes which they might pick up? It is, of course, +well known that they eagerly pounce upon any scraps of animal matter in +the wake of a vessel, hence it is reasonable to suppose that they follow +ships for the purpose of picking up the offal, but they may also be seen +similarly following in the wake of whales and droves of the larger +porpoises. Almost invariably I have found in the stomach of the many +kinds of albatrosses, petrels, and shearwaters, which I have examined, +the undigested horny mandibles of cuttlefish, which would thus appear to +constitute their principal food; and, as all the petrel family are to a +certain extent nocturnal, it seems probable that the small cuttlefish on +which they feed approach the surface only at night. + +July 8th. + +Yesterday at noon we passed close to Beauchene Island, a dreary, bushless +place, half covered with snow. Vast numbers of pintados were about, also +some albatrosses, the first that had made their appearance for several +weeks back. In hopes of reaching an anchorage before dark we stood in for +Bull Road, East Falkland Island, but after running fourteen miles, and +sighting Sealion Islands, this was found impracticable. The ship was kept +away to the eastward, and, after wearing several times during the night +to avoid closing the land, a course was shaped to take us to the +settlement. Passing inside of the Seal Rocks we rounded Cape Pembroke, on +which is a tall beacon, and anchored at dark inside the entrance to Port +William. + +July 9th. + +The thermometer fell to 18 degrees during the night, and the water froze +on the decks during the holystoning. A cold dreary aspect was presented +when the sun rose upon the snow-clad country around, but the sight of a +herd of cattle on shore conjured up visions of fresh beef and made ample +amends. We beat up Port William, and, passing by a narrow channel from +the outer to the inner harbour, or Port Stanley, anchored off the +settlement. We found a solitary vessel lying here--an English brig bound +to California. + +The settlement of Stanley was formed in July, 1844, by the removal +thither of the former establishment at Port Louis--Port William being +considered preferable as a harbour, besides being easier of access and +more conveniently situated for vessels calling there for supplies. The +inner harbour, which communicates with the outer one by a passage not +more than 300 yards wide, is four and a half miles in length by half a +mile in width, with anchorage everywhere. The township extends along the +centre of the south shore, as a small straggling village of wooden +houses, the uncompleted residence of the Lieutenant-Governor being the +only one built of stone. The population, I was told, is about 300: of +these thirty are pensioned soldiers, many of whom with their families are +temporarily lodged in a large barrack, which curiosity one day led me to +visit. Its inmates are all Irish, and appeared to be in anything but +comfortable circumstances, although such as work as labourers receive +three shillings per diem, and mechanics are paid in proportion. One of +them, who had served in Van Diemen's Land, said he often envies the lot +of a convict there, for "sure we are fretting to death to think that we +have come to this in our old age after serving our king and country so +long." They all bitterly complained of having been deluded at home by +highly-coloured reports of the productiveness of a country where grain +will not ripen, and which has not yet been found capable of producing a +tolerable potato. Of the remainder of the place little can be said. There +are two good stores where we procured nearly everything we wanted at very +moderate prices: beef of very fair quality is sold at 2 pence per pound, +wild geese at 1 shilling 3 pence each, and rabbits at four shillings a +dozen. The only vegetables, however, were some small Swedish turnips, +which we got by favour. Lastly, a ship may obtain water here with great +facility from a small reservoir from which a pipe leads it down to the +boat. + +We had to remain at Port Stanley for thirteen days before the necessary +observations for determining the rates of the chronometers could be +obtained. During this period a thaw occurred, followed by hard frost and +another fall of snow, making the country as bleak and desolate as before. +By all accounts the winter has been unusually severe. The ground had been +covered with snow for four weeks previous to our arrival, and many cattle +the horses had perished; I also observed at the head of the harbour some +beds of mussels, most of which were dead, having doubtless been frozen +when uncovered at low water. The average mean temperature on board ship +during our stay was 33 degrees, the maximum and minimum being +respectively 37 and 25 degrees. + +I was obliged to content myself with short excursions, for the inclemency +of the weather would not permit of camping out at night. The appearance +of the surrounding country may briefly be described: ridges and peaks of +grey quartz rock of moderate elevation form boundaries to shallow +valleys, or become the summits of slopes extending with gentle declivity +towards the shore. The ground almost everywhere, even on the hills, is +boggy, with numerous swamps, rivulets and pools. The peat in some places +is as much as six feet in thickness; it forms the only fuel on the +island, for not a single tree occurs to diversify the landscape, and few +of the bushes exceed a foot in height. The general tint of the grass and +other herbage at this season is a dull brownish-green. Bays and long +winding arms of the sea intersect the country in a singular manner, and +the shores are everywhere margined by a wide belt of long wavy seaweed or +kelp (Macrocystis pyrifera) which on the exposed coasts often forms +immense beds of various species, some of which attain to gigantic +dimensions. + +On my first walk I was surprised at the extraordinary tameness of the +smaller landbirds: a thrush (Turdus magellanicus) almost allowed me to +knock it down with my cap, and some other birds were quite as familiar as +our robin in winter--a pair of loggerhead ducks (Brachypterus +micropterus) were quietly pluming themselves on the jetty at government +house, and others were swimming along shore within pistol shot of a +public road; at first I thought they were domesticated, and refrained +from firing. The loggerhead is a large and heavy bird for a duck: one +which I shot weighed eighteen pounds, and it has been recorded as +sometimes weighing as much as twenty-nine pounds. From the +disproportionate smallness of its wings it is incapable of flight, but +employs these members as paddles in hurrying along the surface of the +water when alarmed, using its feet at the same time with much splashing +and apparent awkwardness, leaving a broad wake behind it on the +water--hence the not inappropriate name of steamer which is sometimes +applied to it. Not being fit to eat, and moreover from its strength and +the closeness of its plumage difficult to kill, it is not much molested +by sportsmen. Another bird very likely to attract attention is the kelp +goose (Bernicla antarctica) generally seen in pairs along the rocky +coasts: the plumage of the male is of a beautiful white, that of the +female is dark and glossy, variously speckled and barred. + +July 24th. + +We sailed from Port Stanley yesterday at daylight, and after entering +Berkeley Sound beat up as far as Hog Island, off which we anchored at +sunset, at a distance from the old settlement of Port Louis of about two +miles and a half. As the sole object in coming here was to obtain +magnetic observations at the spot used for that purpose in 1842 by the +Antarctic Expedition under Sir James Ross, for which one day would +suffice, we had little time to make excursions in the neighbourhood. Two +parties were made up to shoot rabbits in some large warrens which have +long been established on the shores of Johnson Harbour and at the head of +Port Darlington, but they met with very little success. I preferred +accompanying Captain B.J. Sulivan for the purpose of seeing his gauchos +use the lasso and bolas in catching some cattle required for the ship. +This officer, who formerly commanded H.M.S. Philomel, employed for +several years upon the survey of the Falklands, has been one of the first +to avail himself of the proposals made by Government to develop the +resources of these islands by throwing them open to private enterprise; +in association with several gentleman in England he has set on foot an +establishment for the purpose of curing beef, hides, and tallow, which, +it is expected, will be in full operation in the course of next year. The +terms upon which settlers of the better class are invited to East +Falkland are, I believe, the following: the purchaser of a block of land +of a quarter of a square mile at the minimum price of eight shillings an +acre (64 pounds) is entitled to a lease of 10,000 acres of contiguous +land for the period of twenty years, at the rent of 10 pounds per annum, +with right of pre-emption. Also, according to part of an agreement +between Government and Mr. Lafone (an Englishman residing at Montevideo) +by which the latter has acquired a right to all the wild cattle on the +island (estimated at 30,000 head) until the year 1860, he is bound to +reclaim annually a certain number, and supply them to purchasers at the +fixed rate of thirty shillings a head. + +We landed on Hog Island where Captain Sulivan's herd of eleven hundred +cattle (besides a number of horses) had been kept during the winter, +supported chiefly by the tussock grass fringing the shore, which they had +cropped so closely that, being a perennial plant of slow growth, two +years' rest would be required to enable it to regain its former vigour. +Large patches of this magnificent grass*--Dactylis caespitosa of +botanists--along the shores of the mainland have been destroyed by the +cattle in their fondness for the nutritious base of the stem, a small +portion of which, as thick as the little finger, has a pleasant taste and +may be eaten by man, to whom it has occasionally furnished the principal +means of subsistence when wandering in the wilds of these inhospitable +islands. Great numbers of upland geese (Chloephaga magellanica) chiefly +in small flocks, were feeding on various berries and the tender grass. +Although seldom molested on this island, they became rather wary after a +few shots had been fired--still a sufficient number to answer our purpose +were procured without much difficulty. Unlike the kelp goose, which has a +very rank taste, derived from its feeding chiefly upon the filmy seaweeds +covering the tidal rocks, the upland goose is excellent eating, and +formed a welcome addition to our fare on board. Loggerheads and other +ducks, cormorants, and grebes, were swimming about among the beds of +kelp, and oyster-catchers of two kinds, gulls, kelp-geese, and many other +birds frequented the shores. + +(*Footnote. For a full account of this useful plant, the growth of which +in Britain in certain favourable maritime situations has been attempted +on a large scale, I would refer to Botany of the Antarctic Voyage by Dr. +J.D. Hooker page 384 and plates 136 and 137.) + +Meanwhile one of the gauchos rode over from Captain Sulivan's +establishment on the main by a ford passable at low-water, and was sent +back for a companion to assist him in catching the cattle. He was an old +weather-beaten half-bred Pampas Indian of the name of Escalante, whose +capability of enduring fatigue and privations of every kind were +described as being remarkable even in a gaucho. At length the cattle were +collected and driven up, and although eight hundred out of those +composing the herd had been reclaimed only three months, yet the whole +were easily managed by the two men on horseback, who rounded them in +without difficulty upon the summit of a low hill close to the +slaughtering-place. A fine dun heifer four years old was the first +selected; it was detached from the herd after some trouble, and pursued +by both gauchos who, throwing off their ponchos, untwisted the bolas from +round the waist, and, after swinging them round the head several times, +threw them in succession at the beast's hind legs but without taking +effect, as each time the animal stumbled for an instant and the bolas +slipped off the legs without becoming entangled. Stooping as he passed to +pick up the bolas from the ground, Escalante uncoiled his lasso, and +getting upon the cow's left flank, drove her at full speed towards the +foot of the hill; when distant about twelve yards from the chase, he +threw the lasso which he had kept swinging horizontally and slowly round +his head for a few minutes back--the noose fell over the animal's head +and neck, catching one of the forelegs, which was instantly doubled up +under the throat by the drawing of the noose, when the beast staggered +and fell, but rose again immediately on three legs, and attempted to +charge the horse and rider. Catching one of the forelegs and neck in this +manner is considered the master-stroke in lassoing, being the most +difficult of execution: Captain Sulivan told me that a one-armed man at +Montevideo, famous for his skill in lassoing, on one occasion for a wager +caught nine out of ten bullocks in succession after this fashion. It was +admirable to observe the manner in which the horse eased off the shock of +bringing up an animal much heavier than itself, and by keeping a strain +upon the lasso urged the furious beast onwards to a triangle which had +been put up. The other gaucho, Andrez Pelaluya by name, meanwhile was +riding up behind, and at length threw his lasso over the heifer's flanks, +the slack of the noose falling down upon the ground--in throwing up her +heels the hind legs were dexterously caught, when in a moment the beast +was dragged over on one side and firmly moored. Leaving the horses to +keep up the strain--for the lasso is made fast to an iron ring in the +saddle--the riders dismounted, and Escalante drawing out a long knife +from his belt and renewing the edge upon a steel which he carried in one +boot, quickly despatched the beast. A second heifer was afterwards picked +out from the herd and caught by the horns; as the animal, maddened with +terror, was galloped past with the lasso at full strain, I must confess +that being a novice I did not feel quite comfortable, and instinctively +clutched my gun, not being altogether sure that the lasso might not +break--but, although no thicker than the little finger, it is of immense +strength, being made of plaited hide. This beast was secured and +butchered pretty much as in the former instance; the bolas had been +thrown at the hind legs, but caught only one, round which the three +thongs and balls were so tightly interlaced as to require some patience +in extricating them. + +While slaughtering the cattle it was amusing to notice the familiarity of +the carrion hawks, hundreds of which were collected about, perched upon +the little hillocks all round, watching every movement of ours, or +hovering overhead within the distance of a few yards. They are the +Milvago australis, a bird of which the sexes differ so much in +appearance, that they were pointed out to me as distinct species. The +settlers and others call them rooks, and another very common carrion bird +of the vulture family (Cathartes aura) is known here as the john-crow. On +board the ship the sight of some quarters of beef secured to the mizen +cross-trees had attracted numbers of these hawks, and upwards of a dozen +might have been seen at one time perched upon the rigging, including one +on each truck; on shore they made several attacks upon a pile of geese +lying near the boat, and although repeatedly driven off with stones, they +returned as often to make a fresh attempt. + +July 25th. + +Yesterday afternoon some of our people employed in cutting grass upon a +small island close to the ship, stumbled upon a huge sealion asleep in +one of the pit-like recesses among the tussocks. At first it was supposed +to be a dead bullock, but the beast on being disturbed rose upon his fore +flippers, and, displaying a formidable array of teeth, roared loudly* at +the disturbers of his rest, who, being unarmed, rushed helter-skelter to +the boat and went off to the ship. They returned immediately with an +assortment of pikes, muskets, and pistols sufficient to ensure the +destruction of a host of sealions; but after cautiously investing the +place, it was discovered that the beast had very prudently got out of the +way, nor this morning could he be found by a person who went to make a +second search. + +(*Footnote. "Sometimes when we came suddenly upon them, or waked them out +of their sleep (for they are a sluggish sleepy animal) they would raise +up their heads, snort and snarl, and look as fierce as if they meant to +devour us; but as we advanced upon them, they always ran away; so that +they are downright bullies." Cook's Voyages Volume 4 page 187.) + +On this--Peat Islet of the chart--the tussock grass grows in great +luxuriance, and to a stranger presents a most singular appearance. Its +clusters of stems--frequently upwards of a hundred or more in a +bunch--are raised from the ground upon a densely matted mass of old and +decayed roots, two or three feet high, from the summit of which the +leaves, frequently six feet in length, arch gracefully outwards. The +tussock grass has been likened to a palm on a small scale, but altogether +it reminded me more of the Xanthorrhoea, or grass-tree of Australia. We +saw many seals swimming about among the kelp, and on the shore found the +carcases of several which had lately been killed with clubs, each of the +skulls having been fractured by a blow at the root of the nose. They were +of the kind known here as the hair-seal, the skin of which is of little +value. It is still very abundant; but the fur-seal, from the +indiscriminate slaughter of old and young for many years back has become +scarce, and is now confined to a few favourite localities--rookeries as +they are called, a name also applied at the Falklands to any great +breeding place of penguins or other seafowl. A few days ago a party of +five sealers returned to the settlement after a short absence, with the +skins of no less than 120 fur-seals, worth, I was told, twenty-five +shillings each. + +Here I found two pairs of the sheathbill (Chionis alba) a bird whose +place in the system has puzzled ornithologists. It has been variously +considered as being one of the galinaceous birds, the pigeons, the +waders, and even as belonging to the web-footed order. Its habits are +those of the oyster-catchers,* however different the form of the beak, +which in the sheathbill is short, stout, and pointed, and enveloped at +the base by a waxy-looking sheath. Its feet are like those of a +gallinaceous bird, yet one which I wounded took voluntarily to the water +and swam off to a neighbouring point to rejoin its mate. Cuvier, besides +erroneously mentioning that it is a native of New Holland, states that it +feeds on carrion; the stomachs of two which I examined contained seaweed, +limpets, and small quartz pebbles. The people here call it the rock-dove, +and from its snow-white plumage it forms a conspicuous object along the +shores. + +(*Footnote. When the above was written I had not seen the remarks on +Chionis by M. Blainville, whose anatomical investigation assigns to it +precisely the same position in the system--or next the +oyster-catchers--which appeared to me to have been indicated by its +habits. Voyage de la Bonite Zoologie tome 1 page 107 plate (oiss.) 9.) + +We resumed our homeward voyage on July 25th, and thirty-six days +afterwards crossed the equator in 24 degrees west longitude. The last +pintado left us 240 miles within the tropics to follow an outward-bound +vessel. Another petrel much resembling it--a new species with longer +wings and different markings, the head, neck, and upper surface being +dark chocolate, and the lower parts white--was abundant between the +latitude of 46 and 40 degrees South, and between the parallels of 36 and +35 degrees South, Procellaria conspicillata was numerous, but +unfortunately I had no opportunity of procuring specimens of either. + +Five days after leaving the Falkland Islands, we encountered a very heavy +gale, commencing at south-east, and blowing hardest at east, when the +barometer was down to 29.264--next day the wind went round to the +south-west and moderated. From the latitude of the entrance of the River +Plate up to latitude 15 degrees South, we experienced northerly winds +between East-North-East and West-North-West, after which we got winds +commencing at South-West and merging into the South-East trade, which we +may be said to have fairly got in 13 1/2 degrees South latitude and 23 +1/2 degrees West longitude, and lost in 6 degrees North latitude, and 22 +degrees West longitude. We picked up the North-East trade in latitude 13 +degrees North and longitude 24 degrees West and carried it up to latitude +29 degrees North and longitude 37 1/2 degrees West. I mention these +particulars as the limits of the trade-winds as experienced by us were +considered to differ considerably from what was to be expected at this +season of the year. Gulf weed made its first appearance in latitude 24 +degrees North and longitude 35 1/2 degrees West but in small quantity, +and was last seen in latitude 38 degrees North and longitude 33 1/2 +degrees West in detached pieces, mostly dead. About 31 1/2 degrees North +and 37 3/4 degrees West it was very plentiful, occurring in long lines +from one to fifty yards in width, extending in the direction of the wind. +Some pieces which were hooked up furnished on being shaken numbers of a +minute univalve shell (Litiopa) many small fish--especially pipe-fish +(Syngnathus) and numerous crustacea (of which Planes minuta was the most +plentiful) while several delicate zoophytes were encrusted or attached to +the weed. In short each little patch of gulf weed seemed a world in +itself, affording the shelter of a home to hundreds of minute and +wonderful animals.* + +(*Footnote. The gulf weed is still regarded as of questionable origin. +Has it--unlike all other seaweeds--always existed as a floating plant, or +has it been detached by storms from the bottom of the sea and carried by +the currents of the ocean into the well defined region it now occupies +and out of which it is never met with in any great quantity? Without +entering into proofs, the principal of which are its not yet having been +found attached to the shore, and the invariable absence of +fructification--it seems probable that those botanists are in the right +who consider the gulf weed (Sargassum bacciferum) to be merely an +abnormal condition, propagating itself by shoots, of S. vulgare, which in +its normal state grows upon the shores of the Atlantic and its islands. +See note by Dr. J.D. Hooker in Memoirs of Geological Survey of Great +Britain volume 1 page 349.) + +September 29th. + +With only another day's supply of fresh water on board, we were glad this +morning to have the islands of Pico and Fayal in sight. The view, as we +closed the land, standing in from the south-westward for the roadstead of +Horta, was very fine--on our left we had the beautiful island of Fayal +rising to the height of 3000 feet, its sides gradually sloping towards a +range of maritime cliffs, while the lower grounds, in full cultivation, +indicated--along with numbers of neat white-washed cottages and +occasional villages--a well peopled and fertile country, contrasting +strongly with those from which we had lately returned. To the right was +Pico--with the summit of its peak (stated to be 7,613 feet in height) +peeping out from a mass of snowy clouds descending almost to the +shore--and the centre was occupied by the more distant island of St. +Jorge with a portion of Graciosa dimly seen projecting beyond its western +end. + +After having been for two months cooped up on board ship, I was glad to +have a quiet walk on shore. In a ravine at one end of the town it was +pleasing to see numbers of old acquaintances among the birds, bringing +vividly to my recollection that home which we had now approached so +closely. Martins were hawking about, the whitethroat warbled his short +snatches of song among the bushes, and blackbirds and starlings flew +past. And although engaged in the matter-of-fact occupation of searching +for landshells, by turning over the stones, I could not help being struck +with the beauty of the terraced walks and overhanging gardens; the +beautiful belladonna lily--here run wild in great abundance--made a fine +show. At Point Greta the rock pigeons--the original stock of the +domesticated race--were flying about in large flocks or sunning +themselves on the sea cliffs. A heavy shower of rain, by bringing out the +landshells, enabled me to pick up half-a-dozen species of Helix, Bulimus, +and Pupa, at the foot of the hedgerows; I was anxious to procure some to +ascertain whether any were non-European forms; one was even quite a new +species. On a white-flowered convolvulus with succulent leaves, I found +numbers of the caterpillars of a large hawk-moth (Sphinx convolvuli) +which some ragged urchins who followed me showed great dread of, running +away when I picked one up and shouting to me to throw it away, else I +should die. One was afterwards brought on board by an English +resident--as a very venomous reptile, which had caused three or four +deaths during his stay on the island. The recurved horn on the tail has +been regarded as a sting, and the poor harmless creature, having once got +a bad name, is now by the Fayalese, in the absence of snakes or +scorpions, made to supply their place. + +The town of Horta contains, I was told, upwards of 10,000 inhabitants. It +is prettily situated on the shores of a small bay, extending between two +rocky headlands. The landing-place is at the remains of a mole under the +walls of Fort Santa Cruz, the only one of numerous ruinous fortifications +where a few guns are mounted; even these are in so wretched a condition +that the commandant admitted that it would require several hours' +preparation before they would be fit to return our expected salute, and +seemed glad when told that as a surveying ship we were exempted from +saluting the flags of other nations. A sea wall runs along the face of +the town; parallel with this is the principal street, with others at +rightangles extending up the hill, the narrow streets are clean and well +paved--the houses, generally of one storey, are built of tough grey +trachyte. + +Almost every inch of available ground upon the island of Fayal has been +turned to good account: Indian corn is the chief agricultural product. +With our usual bad fortune in this respect we were too late for the +grapes and the oranges had not yet come in. The lower grounds are divided +into small enclosures by stone walls, and subdivided by rows of a tall +stout reed (Arundo donax) resembling sugarcane. Although taxes and other +burdens are heavy, and wages very low, yet to a mere visitor like myself +there appeared none of those occasional signs of destitution which strike +one in walking through a town at home, nor did I see a single beggar. + +In Fayal and Pico the most careless observer from the anchorage of Horta +can scarcely fail to associate the number of smooth conical hills with +former volcanic activity; and in looking over Captain Vidal's beautiful +charts of the Azores, nearly all the principal hills throughout the group +are seen to have their craters or caldeiras. Fayal exhibits a fine +specimen of one of these caldeiras in the central and highest part of the +island. At an elevation of a little more than 3000 feet, we reached the +ridge forming the margin of a circular crater, rather more than a mile in +diameter, and 700 feet deep. The outer slope is gradual, but the inner +walls are steep, deeply furrowed by small ravines and watercourses, and +covered with grass, fern and heath-like bushes. The bottom contains a +considerable extent of swampy meadowland, a shallow lagoon, and a small +hill with a crater also partially filled with water. The view here is +magnificent, enhanced, too, at times by the rolling volumes of mist +overhead, at one moment admitting of a peep at the blue sky above, in the +next concealing the rim of the crater and increasing in idea the height +of its wall-like sides. The caldeira, I may add in conclusion, is said to +have been formed during the last eruption of Fayal in 1672, but this +statement appears to be very doubtful. + +We resumed our homeward voyage on October 5th, and on November 9th, the +Rattlesnake was paid off at Chatham, after having been in commission +upwards of four years. + +... + + +ACCOUNT OF MR. E.B. KENNEDY'S EXPEDITION FOR THE EXPLORATION OF THE CAPE +YORK PENINSULA, IN TROPICAL AUSTRALIA. + +In addition to the brief account which already forms part of the +Narrative of the Voyage of H.M.S. Rattlesnake, I have thought it would +add to the interest of this work and the gratification of its readers, +were I to give under a distinct head a detailed history of the exploring +expedition conducted by the late Mr. Edmund B. Kennedy, derived from a +pamphlet printed in Sydney, and scarcely procurable in this country. It +includes the interesting narrative of Mr. W. Carron, the botanist +attached to the expedition in question; also the statements of the +aboriginal black who witnessed the death of his gallant master--of Dr. +Vallack who took an active part in rescuing the survivors--and of Mr. +T.B. Simpson who proceeded in search of the remainder of the party, whose +fate was still in a measure uncertain, and succeeded in recovering some +of Mr. Kennedy's papers. + + +NARRATIVE OF MR. W. CARRON. + +We left Sydney on the 29th of April, 1848, in the barque Tam O'Shanter +(Captain Merionberg) in company with H.M.S. Rattlesnake. + +Our party consisted of the following persons: Mr. E.B. Kennedy (leader), +Mr. W. Carron (botanist), Mr. T. Wall (naturalist), Mr. C. Niblet +(storekeeper), James Luff, Edward Taylor, and William Costigan (carters), +Edward Carpenter (shepherd), William Goddard, Thomas +Mitchell, John Douglas, Dennis Dunn (labourers), and Jackey-Jackey, an +aboriginal native of the Patrick's Plains tribe, of the Hunter River +district. + +Our supplies and equipment for the journey had been most fully +considered, and were estimated by Mr. Kennedy as amply sufficient for a +journey so short as what we then anticipated. Our livestock consisted of +twenty-eight horses, one hundred sheep, three kangaroo dogs, and one +sheep dog. Our dry provisions comprised one ton of flour, ninety pounds +of tea, and six hundred pounds of sugar. Besides these necessary supplies +for subsistence on the road, we took with us twenty-four pack-saddles, +one heavy square cart, two spring carts, with harness for nine horses, +four tents, a canvas sheepfold, twenty-two pounds gunpowder, one hundred +and thirty pounds shot, a quarter cask of ammunition, twenty-eight tether +ropes (each twenty-one yards long) forty hobble chains and straps, +together with boxes, paper, etc., for preserving specimens, firearms, +cloaks, blankets, tomahawks, and other minor requisites for such an +expedition, not forgetting a supply of fish-hooks and other small +articles, as presents for the natives. + +After a tedious passage of twenty-two days, we arrived at Rockingham Bay +on the 21st May; and even here, at the very starting point of our +journey, those unforeseen difficulties began to arise, which led us +subsequently to hardships so great and calamities so fatal. + +On casting anchor, Mr. Kennedy, in company with Captain Merionberg, +proceeded in a boat to examine the shores of the Bay, and to determine on +a suitable landing-place for the horses, but returned in the evening +without having been able to discover one. + +The attempt was renewed the next morning, and continued during the entire +day; and on the morning of the 23rd of May Mr. Kennedy and Captain +Merionberg returned to the ship with the intelligence that they had +discovered a spot where the horses might be landed with tolerable safety, +and where, too, there was plenty of grass and water. This was an +important desideratum, as we had lost one horse and eleven sheep on the +voyage. + +The water round the shores of the bay was very shallow, in consequence of +which the vessel could not approach close inshore, but was compelled to +cast anchor about a quarter of a mile off, and this distance the horses +had to swim. + +In the afternoon the vessel was anchored off the landing-place, and early +on the following morning (May 24th) the tents, tether ropes, and +sheepfold were taken ashore, with a party to take care of the horses when +landed. At ten o'clock A.M., slings having been prepared, we commenced +hoisting the horses out of the hold, and lowering them into the water +alongside a boat, to the stern of which the head of each horse was +secured, as it was pulled ashore. One horse was drowned in landing, but +all the others were safely taken ashore during the day. The weather this +day was very cold, with occasional showers of rain. + +During the time occupied by landing the horses, a number of aboriginal +natives assembled on the beach; they evinced no symptom of hostility, but +appeared much surprised at our horses and sheep. White men they had +frequently seen before, as parties have landed on the beach from +surveying vessels. + +We found no difficulty in making them comprehend that we desired to be +friendly with them, and they advanced towards us with green boughs in +their hands, which they displayed as emblems of peace. We met them with +our arms extended and our hands open, indicating that we had no +implements of war with us. We made them a present of two circular tin +plates, with Mr. Kennedy's initials stamped upon them, and chains to hang +them round the neck; we also gave them a few fish-hooks, and they +accepted our presents with great demonstrations of pleasure. We made +signs for them to sit down about 200 yards from the spot where the horses +and sheep were being landed, and marking a line upon the sand we made +them understand that they were not to cross it to approach us. One of our +party was placed amongst them to enforce this regulation, which he did +with little difficulty, although they expressed great curiosity as to +various articles brought on shore from the ship. + +These natives appeared to be very fine strong men, varying much in +intelligence and disposition. I entered into such conversation with them +as we were enabled to hold, and I soon found that while some were eagerly +anxious to learn the names of different articles and their uses, others +were perfectly indifferent about them. + +We pitched our tents about two hundred yards from the beach, forming a +square, with the sheepfold in the centre. Mr. Kennedy came on shore in +the morning to superintend the arrangements, and after giving the +necessary directions and instructions, returned to the ship. The party +left ashore in charge consisted of myself, Wall, Dunn, Carpenter, and +Douglas. Our provisions were supplied from the ship, in order that no +time might be lost in getting all our stores and implements in proper +order for starting. + +A few yards from our camp was a freshwater creek, from which, although +the tide ran into it about one hundred yards--where it was stopped by a +small bank--we could obtain excellent water. The grass around was very +long, and mostly of very coarse descriptions, consisting chiefly of a +species of Uniola growing in tufts, and an Agrostis with creeping roots +and broad blades; the horses seemed to like the Uniola best. A little to +the northward of our camp were very high and almost perpendicular rocks, +composed mostly of micaceous schist, covered with various epiphytal +orchides and ferns. + +The labour of the day being ended, and most of our stores landed, the +greater number of our party came ashore to pass the night; and after +having tethered the horses in fresh places, we assembled at supper, the +materiel of which (beef and biscuit) was sent from the ship. We then took +possession of our tents, one square tent being allotted to Mr. Kennedy; +Niblet, Wall, and myself occupied a small round one; Taylor, Douglas, +Carpenter, Mitchell, and Jackey, a large round tent; and Luff, Dunn, +Goddard, and Costigan, the other. + +Mr. Kennedy's tent was 8 feet long, by 6 feet, and 8 feet high, and in it +were placed a compact table, constructed with joints so as to fold up, a +light camp stool, his books and instruments. The two larger round tents +were pyramidal in shape, seven feet in diameter at the least, and nine +feet high. The small tent was six feet in diameter, and eight feet high. + +Every man was then supplied with one pair of blankets, one cloak, a +double-barrelled gun or carbine, a brace of pistols, cartridge box, small +percussion-cap pouch, and six rounds of ammunition. The arrangement for +preserving the safety of the camp from attack was, that every man, with +the exception of Mr. Kennedy, should take his turn to watch through the +night--two hours being the duration of each man's watch--the watch +extending from 8 P.M. till 6 A.M. During the night the kangaroo-dogs were +kept chained up, but the sheepdog was at large. + +The position of this our first encampment was near the northern extremity +of Rockingham Bay, being in latitude 17 degrees 58 minutes 10 seconds +south, longitude 146 degrees 8 minutes east. The soil, where our cattle +and sheep were feeding, was sandy and very wet. The land, from the beach +to the scrub in the swamp beyond, was slightly undulating, and very +thickly strewed with shells, principally bivalves. + +On the morning of the 25th May, a party commenced landing the remainder +of our stores; and it being a fine morning, I went out to collect +specimens and seeds of any new and interesting plants I might find. On +leaving the camp I proceeded through a small belt of scrub to the rocks +on the north; the scrub was composed of the genera Flagellaria, Kennedya, +Bambusa (bamboo), Smilax, Cissus, Mucuna, and various climbing plants +unknown to me: the trees consisted principally of Eugenia, Anacardium, +Castanospermum (Moreton Bay chestnut), a fine species of Sarcocephalus, +and a large spreading tree belonging to the natural order Rutaceae, with +ternate leaves, axillary panicles of white flowers, about the size of +those of Boronia pinnata. At the edge of the rocks were some fine +treeferns (Dicksonia) with the genera Xiphopteris, and Polypodium; also +some beautiful epiphytal Orchideae; among others a beautiful Dendrobium +(rock lily,) with the habit of D. speciosum, but of stronger growth, +bearing long spikes of bright yellow flowers, the sepals spotted with +rich purple. I found also another species with smaller leaves, and more +slender habit, with spikes of dull green flowers, the column and tips of +the sepals purple: and a very fine Cymbidium, much larger than C. suave, +with brown blossoms, having a yellow column. + +I proceeded along the edge of a mangrove swamp for a short distance, and +entered a freshwater swamp about a mile from the beach, covered with very +thick scrub, composed of large trees of the genus Melaleuca, running for +the most part from forty to fifty feet high. Here also I first found a +strong-growing climbing palm (Calamus australis) throwing up a number of +shoots from its roots, many of them 100 feet long, and about the +thickness of a man's finger, with long pinnatifid leaves, covered with +sharp spines--and long tendrils growing out of the stem alternately with +the leaves, many of them twenty feet long, covered with strong spines +slightly curved downward, by which the shoots are supported in their +rambling growth. They lay hold of the surrounding bushes and branches of +trees, often covering the tops of the tallest, and turning in all +directions. The seed is a small hard nut, with a thin scaly covering, and +is produced in great abundance. + +The shoots, which are remarkably tough, I afterwards found were used by +the natives in making their canoes. These canoes are small, and +constructed of bark, with a small sapling on each side to strengthen +them, the ends of which are tied together with these shoots. + +The growth of this plant forms one of the greatest obstacles to +travelling in the bush in this district. It forms a dense thicket, into +which it is impossible to penetrate without first cutting it away, and a +person once entangled in its long tendrils has much difficulty in +extricating himself, as they lay hold of everything they touch. On +entering the swamp to examine plants, I was caught by them, and became so +much entangled before I was aware of it, that it took me nearly an hour +to get clear, although I had entered but a few yards. No sooner did I cut +one tendril, than two or three others clung around me at the first +attempt to move, and where they once clasp they are very difficult to +unloose. Abundance of the shoots, from fifteen to twenty feet long, free +from leaves or tendrils, could be obtained, and would be useful for all +the purposes to which the common cane is now applied. + +At this spot also I met with Dracontium polyphyllum, a beautiful plant, +belonging to the natural order Aroideae, climbing by its rooting stems to +the tops of the trees, like the common ivy. This plant has narrow pointed +leaves, four inches long, and produces at the ends of the shoots a red +spatha, enclosing a cylindrical spadix of yellow flowers. + +In many parts the swamp was completely covered with a very strong-growing +species of Restio (rope-grass). On the open ground, between the beach and +the swamp, were a few large flooded-gums, and a few Moreton Bay ash +trees, and near the beach I found the Exocarpus latifolia. + +On the beach, too, just above high-water mark, was a beautiful spreading, +lactescent tree, about twenty feet high, belonging to the natural order +Apocyneae, with alternate, exstipulate, broad, lanceolate leaves, six to +eight inches long, and producing terminal spikes of large, white, +sweet-scented flowers, resembling those of the white Nerium oleander, but +much larger. I also met with a tree about twenty feet high belonging to +the natural order Dilleniaceae, with large spreading branches, producing +at the axilla of the leaves from three to five large yellow flowers, with +a row of red appendages surrounding the carpels, and a fine species of +Calophyllum, with large dark green leaves, six to eight inches long, two +and a half to three inches broad, beautifully veined, and with axillary +racemes of white, sweet-scented flowers; the seed being a large round nut +with a thin rind, of a yellowish-green colour when ripe. There were many +other interesting plants growing about, but the afternoon turning out +wet, I left their examination to stand over till finer weather. + +Growing on the beach was a species of Portulaca, a quantity of the young +shoots of which I collected, and we partook of them at our supper, boiled +as a vegetable. + +In the evening after watering our horses, we took them to the camp and +gave each of them a feed of corn which we had brought with us for the +purpose of strengthening them previous to our starting from Rockingham +Bay, on our expedition; but although the grass on which they had been +depasturing was coarse, they were with difficulty induced to eat the +corn, many of them leaving it almost all behind them. We then tethered +them and folded our sheep, one of which we killed for food. The ration +per week on which the party was now put, was one hundred pounds of flour, +twenty-six pounds of sugar, three and a half pounds of tea, with one +sheep every alternate day. + +This night too we commenced our nightly watch, the whole of the stores +being landed and packed in the camp. During nearly the whole of the day a +tribe of natives was watching our movements, but they seemed to be quite +peaceably inclined; the weather was very cold, and at night the rain set +in and continued to fall, almost without intermission, till morning. + +The next morning (May 26th) was very wet and cold; but after securing our +horses, I again went out to search for, and examine plants, although it +was too rainy to collect seeds or specimens. On a Casuarina near the +swamp, I saw a beautiful Loranthus with rather small oval leaves, +panicles of flowers, with the tube of the corolla green; segments of the +limbs dark red; of a dwarf bushy habit. This beautiful parasite covered +the tree, and was very showy. The afternoon turning out fine and warm, I +collected several specimens and sorts of seeds. In the open ground grew a +beautiful tree producing large terminal spikes of yellow flowers, with +broad, and slightly cordate leaves; it belongs to the natural order +Bignoniaceae. + +The open ground between the beach and the swamp varied in width from half +a mile to three or four miles; it was principally covered with long +grass, with a belt of bushy land along the edge of the beach; the bush +consisting principally of Exocarpus, with dark green oval leaves, near an +inch long; two dwarf species of Fabricia, one with white, the other with +pink flowers; a species of Jasminum, with rather large, white, +sweet-scented flowers; and a few acacia trees, with long, linear, +lanceolate, phyllodia, racemose spikes of bright yellow flowers. There +also grew the genera Xanthorrhoea, Xerotes, and Restio (rope-grass.) + +There were a great many wallabies near the beach, but they were very +wild. While returning to the camp in the evening, I met several natives +who had been fishing. Most of the fish they had taken had been speared, +only a few having been caught with hooks. I remained with them some time, +and learned some of their expressions. Fresh water they call hammoo,* +salt water, mocull; their dogs--the same species as the native dogs found +near Sydney--they call taa-taa. We had not as yet seen any of their +women, as they were encamped at some distance from us. + +(*Footnote. Kamo, at Goold Island, only a few miles distant.) + +Near the beach, by the side of the saltwater creek, I saw a beautiful +species of Ruellia with terminal spikes of blue flowers, and +spiny-toothed leaves, and a bushy shrub eight or ten feet high, with +alternate exstipulate, simple, oval leaves, bearing a solitary, axillary, +round fruit, resembling a greengage plum; the fleshy pulp covering the +hard round stone has rather a bitter taste, but it is not disagreeable +when ripe. It acts as a laxative if eaten in any quantity, and is +probably Maba laurina. + +On the following morning, May 27th, when the horses were watered and fed, +I commenced digging a piece of ground, in which I sowed seeds of cabbage, +turnip, leek, pumpkin, rock and water melons, pomegranate, peach stones, +and apple pips. On the two following days, May 28th and 29th, I remained +in the camp all day. + +The next morning, May 30th, Mr. Kennedy and three others of the party +rode out to examine the surrounding country, and to determine in what +direction the expedition should start, the remainder staying at the camp, +busily occupied with preparations for our departure into the wilderness. +The flour was put into canvas bags, holding 100 pounds each, made in the +shape of saddlebags, to hold 50 pounds weight on each side. The sugar we +put into two large tin canisters, made to fit into one of the carts, and +the tea was packed in quarter-chests. The surplus stores, comprising +horse shoes, clothes, specimen boxes, etc., which would not be required +before our arrival at Cape York, were sent on board H.M.S. Rattlesnake, +which it was arranged should meet us at Port Albany. During the day one +of the party shot a wallaby on the beach, which made very good soup. + +During the morning of the next day (May 31st) I was employed in procuring +specimens and seeds of various plants, and in the afternoon we all +resumed our preparations for starting, as we expected Mr. Kennedy back +next day. He however did not arrive in the camp, and on the following +afternoon I obtained specimens of a very pretty plant of the natural +order Onagrariae, with opposite, oblong, simple leaves, and large purple +flowers. + +The following day (June 3rd) Mr. Kennedy and his party returned to the +camp, with the intelligence that it was impossible to proceed in a north +or north-westerly direction, in consequence of the swamps. Mr. Kennedy +had penetrated them in some places, where the scrub was not too thick; +but could not get through them in any place, on account of the water, and +the dense scrub. He informed us that he found we should be obliged to +cross a river on the beach to the south-west of the camp before we could +hope to make any progress. + +The two following days were occupied with completing our arrangements for +starting; as it was determined on the following morning to strike our +tents and proceed at once on our expedition. + +As I may now consider our expedition as fairly begun, it may, for the +sake of clearness and arrangement, be advisable to continue my narrative +in the form of a journal; detailing from day to day the various +occurrences which took place. It must be remembered, however, that in +narrating the particulars of our journey, I am obliged to trust largely +to memory, and to very imperfect memoranda; and to these difficulties +must I refer, in excuse for the defects, with which I am well aware this +narrative abounds. + +Up to the present time, the whole of the party, and especially its +unfortunate leader, had remained in good spirits, and, buoyed up with +sanguine hopes of success, were eager to set out on their pilgrimage of +discovery. + +June 5. + +We breakfasted at an early hour this morning, and proceeded at once to +harness our horses to the carts, three to each cart. The carts contained +about seven hundredweight each. This business having been completed, and +the packhorses saddled and loaded, we started at nine o'clock A.M., and +proceeded along the beach. Mr. Kennedy and Jackey rode in front, followed +by the three carts. After Wall, riding one horse and leading two +packhorses, came Goddard, Douglas, Mitchell, and Dunn, leading three +packhorses, then Niblet in the rear, riding one and leading two horses, +followed by Carpenter driving the sheep, and myself on foot, carrying Mr. +Kennedy's mountain barometer, which he had given into my charge during +the journey; and I was also to take the time for that gentleman, in his +observations. + +After travelling in this order about two miles, we came to a large +river,* emptying itself into Rockingham Bay. This river was about one +hundred and fifty yards wide, and although the tide ran up it about a +mile, fresh water was procurable from it considerably nearer the sea. + +(*Footnote. Mackay River of the Admiralty chart of Rockingham Bay.) + +At nearly high-water I tasted fresh water on one side of the river, and +salt on the other, and about two hours after high-water, there was no +difficulty in obtaining plenty of excellent water on either side of the +river, in different places. There is a great deal of fresh water running +into the sea here, and at the same distance from the sea as the mouth of +the river, it is in some places mixed with salt water, whilst in others +it is quite fresh. The banks of this river are low and sandy, and a short +distance above where we joined it, it is skirted on either side by a +thick mangrove swamp, for the distance of about a mile, where it joins +the freshwater swamps, covered with thick scrub. On my proceeding up the +river, it became narrower in its channel as it approached the swamps, +from which it appeared to be principally supplied. It had a tortuous +course, and when I left it, was turning to the westward. + +A boat was sent to us by Captain Stanley of H.M.S. Rattlesnake to assist +us in carrying our stores across, which we effected with some difficulty +by ten o'clock P.M., the horses and some of the sheep swimming across, +while the remainder of the latter were taken in the boat. We pitched Mr. +Kennedy's tent on sand, at the side of the river, and it being dark, and +not knowing where to obtain water on that side of the river, I and five +others recrossed it, and went back about three-quarters of a mile to a +small creek running parallel to the beach. We filled our kegs, and +returned to the camp in time to have supper by twelve o'clock, after +which we rolled ourselves in our blankets, and, wearied by the fatigues +we had undergone, slept soundly till daylight. + +This was a very harassing day to us, as we were all constantly in the +water, loading and unloading the boat. It is but just to state, that +Captain Stanley of the Rattlesnake, both in landing our horses and +stores, and in crossing this river, rendered us every assistance in his +power, and seemed throughout to take a strong interest in the expedition, +and its object. + +While landing our things at the other side of the river, the natives +assembled in great numbers about our luggage. As they appeared to be +friendly, we permitted them to come within about 150 yards of our +landing-place; with some few we had a little difficulty, but for the most +part they would sit down quietly as soon as a sign was made for them to +do so. + +June 6. + +Early this morning Lieutenant Simpson of the Rattlesnake left us, he +having stayed all night at the camp, and we were now left entirely to our +own resources. We loaded our carts and packhorses, and proceeded about +three miles inland, but again finding it impossible to cross the swamps, +we returned to the beach, and about dusk came to another river, also +emptying itself into Rockingham Bay, about two miles south-west of the +first we had to cross. This river was much wider than the first, being +about two hundred yards wide where we crossed it near the mouth. At the +mouth of this river is a sandbank, over which the water is about four +feet deep. Inside the bank the water is ten feet deep. The tide flows up +for about a mile; there appears to be a great quantity of fresh water +discharged into the sea from the river, which, I think, is principally +supplied from the swamps. These swamps lie at the foot of a high mountain +range, and probably the rivulets descending from the range spread over +the flat ground, and form channels by which they reach the sea. Fresh +water can be obtained on either side the river very near the sea. I +tasted fresh water on one side, salt in the middle, and slightly brackish +on the other side, as we crossed over it. Small boats only can enter this +river, on account of the sandbank at the mouth. Its course turned to the +south-west about two miles up. Its banks were sandy and barren, at least +close to the water; on the north side of the river there is a mangrove +swamp, extending some distance up the stream; on the south side the banks +are higher, and are covered with Casuarinas and Acacias, the soil being +sandy and pretty well covered with grass, the land slightly undulating, +for about one and a half or two miles up the river. It being too late to +think of crossing the river to-night, we hobbled our horses, and having +pitched Mr. Kennedy's tent, slept on the sand till morning. + +June 7. + +As soon as we had breakfasted this morning, we prepared to cross, to +assist us in which undertaking we contrived to construct a sort of punt +by taking the wheels and axletrees off one of the carts. We then placed +the body of the cart on a large tarpaulin, the shafts passing through +holes cut for them, the tarpaulin tightly nailed round them. The +tarpaulin was then turned up all round, and nailed inside the cart; by +this means it was made almost water-tight. We then fastened our +water-bags, filled with air, to the sides of the cart, six on each side, +and a small empty keg to each shaft. We tied our tether ropes together, +and made one end fast on each side of the river, by which means our punt +was easily pulled from one side to the other. By this contrivance we +managed to get most of our things over during the day, and at night a +party slept on either side, without pitching the tents. + +June 8. + +One party continued employed in getting the remainder of the things +across the river, whilst the others went in search of the horses, which +had rambled to some distance to seek for better grass. The grass had +hitherto continued plentiful in places all the way. The horses were +brought up to the river by eleven A.M., and were with some difficulty got +across; after which they were hobbled, and we camped for the night near +the beach, in good grass. + +June 9. + +Mr. Kennedy, with Jackey and three others, left the camp this morning for +the purpose of ascertaining the most practicable route for our carts. +During the day a great number of natives came around our camp, but +appeared very friendly; they are a finer race of men than those usually +seen in the southern districts of the colony, but their habits and mode +of life seem very similar. They left us before dark, without making any +attempt at plunder. + +June 10. + +Mr. Kennedy returned to the camp this evening; he still found the swamps +were impassable, the water and mud lying on them in many parts, from +three to four feet deep; there were patches of dry land here and there +covered with good but coarse grass. + +We saw here large flocks of black and white ducks, making a whistling +noise similar to some I have seen near Port Macquarie; Mr. Wall shot +three of them, and they proved very good to eat, but they were not new, +belonging to the genus Dendrocygna eytoni. + +June 11. + +We started early this morning and proceeded along the beach for three or +four miles, when we came to another river, similar in its character to +the one we crossed on the 8th, with low sandy banks, and dry bushy land +on each side. We unloaded and hobbled our horses, and prepared our punt +as before. + +Near to this spot we came to a native encampment, consisting of eighteen +or twenty huts of an oval form, about seven feet long, and four feet +high; and at the southern end of the camp, was one large hut eighteen +feet long, seven feet wide, and fourteen feet high. All of them were +neatly and strongly built with small saplings stuck in the ground, arched +over, and tied together at the top with small shoots of the climbing +palm, which I have already described. They were covered with the bark of +the large Melaleucas which grow in the swamps, fastened to the saplings +with palm shoots. A small opening is left at one end, from the ground to +the top, and the floors were covered with long dried grass. + +The natives being absent from the camp, I entered the large gunyah, and +found in it a large shield of solid wood, two feet in diameter, convex on +one side, and flat on the other. The convex side was curiously painted +red, in circular rings and crosses. On the flat side was a handle, cut +out of the solid wood. In the same hut I found four wooden swords, three +and a half feet long, and four inches broad, sharp at both edges, and +thick in the centre, with a slightly curved, round handle, about six +inches long. They were made of very hard wood, and were much too heavy to +wield with one hand. I also found a number of fishing lines, made from +grass, with hooks attached of various sizes, made from mussel shells. + +After I had carefully examined all these things, I left them where I +found them. In the centre of the camp were four large ovens, for cooking +their food. These ovens were constructed by digging a hole in the ground, +about three feet in diameter, and two feet deep. The hole is then filled +to within six inches of the top with smooth, hard, loose stones, on which +a fire is kindled, and kept burning till the stones are well heated. +Their food, consisting principally of shell and other fish, is then +placed on the stones and baked. + +There were no vessels in the camp in which they could boil anything, and +it is my opinion, from what I afterwards saw of their habits, that their +cookery is confined to roasting and baking. In the camp were several +large shells for holding water, and some calabashes, made by taking out +the inside of a gourd, which grows plentifully near the camp. These +calabashes would hold from one to three pints each. + +June 12. + +This morning Taylor endeavoured to cross the river with the rope for +working our punt, but although an expert swimmer, and a very strong man, +he was unable to do so, from the strength of the tide which was running +out. We saw several natives fishing in the river from their canoes, which +are about five feet long and one and a half feet wide, made of bark, with +small saplings tied along the side, and are paddled with small pieces of +bark held in either hand. We made signs to them to come to us, with which +three of them complied. We made them understand that if they would take +our rope across, and make it fast to a dead tree on the other side of the +river, we would give them a tomahawk. They consented to undertake the +task, and after great exertion succeeded in performing it, and received +their reward, with which they seemed quite satisfied and highly pleased. +We succeeded in getting everything across this river by ten o'clock P.M., +for the moon being up we would not stop till we had finished. Our horses +we took about a quarter of a mile up the river, and they crossed where it +was narrower and not so deep. Several natives, who had not yet seen our +horses, assembled on the banks of the river to see them cross, and when +they came out of the water commenced shouting to frighten them, +continuing their noise for about twenty minutes. Seeing at length, +however, that the beasts submitted to be led quietly along the beach, +they came near the camp, and we made them a present of a few fish-hooks. +They returned to their camp before sunset. + +The river we crossed this day was not so deep as either of the former +ones. There is, apparently, a sandbank across all the rivers emptying +themselves into Rockingham Bay, near the mouth, and this one formed no +exception to the rule. The tide runs up very strongly, I should think +from a mile and a half to two miles. + +There is a mangrove swamp running up some distance on the northern side +of the river, till it joins the freshwater swamps. There is not so much +fresh water running out of this river as from the last, and fresh water +is only procurable from the south side near the swamp--it being +impossible to penetrate the scrub on the northern side to obtain it. At +low-water the river is very shallow, with a muddy bottom. + +June 13. + +On our mustering this morning, Carpenter was missed from the camp. It was +discovered that he had absconded during the night, carrying off with him +a damper weighing about eleven pounds, two pounds of tea, and ten pounds +of sugar. We had breakfast as quickly as possible, and Mr. Kennedy sent +four men on horseback to scour the country around in search of him. They +returned from an unsuccessful search, but had received intelligence from +the blacks that he was not far off. + +June 14. + +A party went out early this morning, in search of Carpenter, and caught +sight of him about two miles from the river, sharing his damper with the +blacks. As soon, however, as he saw the party approaching, he decamped +into the bush, and was again lost sight of. On coming up to the spot +where he was seen, the bags in which he had carried away the tea and +sugar were found; the sugar was nearly consumed, but the tea appeared +untouched. In the evening Carpenter returned, and on begging Mr. +Kennedy's pardon, he was forgiven. Throughout the expedition he was of +very little service, being, in fact, little better than an idiot. + +This evening we saw a large alligator, about twenty feet long, rising to +the surface of the water, close to our camp. He appeared to be +attentively watching our sheep, which were feeding by the side of the +river, on the Dolichos and Ipomoeas which were growing on the sand. The +natives here had a great many dogs, which, towards evening, rushed on our +sheep and drove them among the bushes in all directions. We had great +difficulty in getting them together before dark. + +June 15. + +We proceeded inland two or three miles to the edge of the freshwater +swamps, and camped there. Mr. Kennedy went with a party into the swamps +to ascertain if it were possible to make a road for the carts to pass +through. Wall and myself went out collecting specimens. + +I found a beautiful species of Loranthus, growing on acacia trees, and +producing on its long pendulous shoots abundance of beautiful scarlet +flowers; the tube of the corolla was two inches long, with a very short +limb, and the plant has lanceolate, glossy leaves. This most interesting +parasite--covering the acacia trees--when in flower forms a most gorgeous +sight; presenting a beautiful contrast to the dull foliage of the +surrounding trees. I also found a scarlet passionflower,* very beautiful, +with three-lobed glaucous leaves; and a Nymphaea, (waterlily) growing in +the waterholes and small creeks, producing large purple flowers, and +peltate leaves; besides a number of other new and interesting plants. Mr. +Wall succeeded in obtaining a specimen of a beautiful little marsupial +animal, resembling an opossum in form, but not larger than the common +rat, the colour pure white, with very small black spots. + +(*Footnote. Disemma coccinea. See Volume 1.) + +Mr. Kennedy and party returned in the evening, after having been in the +water up to their knees all day. He reported that it was altogether +impossible to make a road. + +June 16. + +Mr. Kennedy and party proceeded again this morning to enter the swamps, +but in a different direction, in the hope of finding some spot where a +road might be made, but returned with no better success. This day we +killed the best sheep we had yet slaughtered; it weighed 53 pounds, those +we had previously killed weighed from 40 to 48 pounds; they did not keep +fat, but up to this time we were enabled to fry all the meat, which mode +of cookery was more speedy and convenient for us than boiling or any +other way. + +June 17. + +We proceeded this evening along the edge of the swamps, crossing several +small creeks. In many places the wheels of the carts sank to the +axletrees in consequence of the rottenness of the ground near the creeks. +At length we camped, after travelling about five miles. + +June 18. + +This day was Sunday, and at eleven o'clock Mr. Kennedy assembled the +whole party under the shade of some large trees and read prayers. This +was a practice always persevered in when practicable, and unless for some +very pressing reason, we uniformly set apart the Sabbath as a day of +rest, such an interval from our toils being in fact absolutely necessary. + +June 19. + +Again Mr. Kennedy started this morning, accompanied by five men, into the +swamps, determined, if possible, to find a road by which we might cross +them, and get to the foot of the mountain ranges on the south. He +remained out during this and the two following days. The natives appear +to be very numerous in the neighbourhood of Rockingham Bay. There was an +old camping-place with twelve or fourteen old huts near our camp, but it +was not visited by the natives during our stay there. They generally came +to look at us every day, but always kept at a distance; on some days we +saw as many as from eighty to a hundred. The women and children always +kept farther from us than the men; I think more from fear of our dogs and +horses than of ourselves. The weather was cool, with showers occasionally +during the day, and at night steady rain set in. + +June 20. + +The rain continued throughout the day. + +June 21 and 22. + +The rain still continued. Two of our horses were found bogged in a creek +near the camp, but were soon released without injury; they had strayed +into the creek to eat the aquatic grass, which is plentiful on almost all +the creeks between the swamps and the sea. The soil here was rather +stiffer than we had found it before, being a light sandy loam, and in +places clayey. There were not so many shells to be seen, and what there +were, were principally bivalves. + +Mr. Kennedy returned this evening, and having again found it impossible +to cross the swamps, we were obliged to return to the beach, where the +travelling was far better than among the trees. While travelling inland a +man was always obliged to walk before the carts, to cut down small trees. + +At this time we had only two meals per day; breakfast at daylight, and +dinner when we had completed our day's work, and camped. The time for +dinner was therefore irregular, depending on the nature of the country +over which we travelled. Some days we dined at one o'clock, on others not +till dark. Whenever any birds were shot, they were boiled for supper; but +as yet we had killed very few. + +Mr. Kennedy appeared to be, in every respect, admirably fitted for the +leader of an expedition of this character. Although he had innumerable +difficulties and hardships to contend with, he always appeared cheerful, +and in good spirits. Travelling through such a country as we were in, +such a disposition was essential to the success of the expedition. He was +always diverting the minds of his followers from the obstacles we daily +encountered, and encouraging them to hope for better success; careful in +all his observations and calculations, as to the position of his camp, +and cautious not to plunge into difficulties, without personal +observation of the country, to enable him to take the safest path. But +having decided, he pursued his deliberate determination with steady +perseverance, sharing in the labour of cutting through the scrub, and all +the harassment attendant on travelling through such a wilderness, with as +much (or greater) alacrity and zeal as any of his followers. It was often +grievous to me to hear some of the party observe, after we had passed +over some difficult tract, that a better road might have been found, a +little to the right or to the left. Such observations were the most +unjust and vexatious, as in all matters of difficulty and of opinion, he +would invariably listen to the advice of all, and if he thought it +prudent, take it. For my own part, I can safely say, that I was always +ready to obey his orders, and conform to his directions, confident as I +then was of his abilities to lead us to the place of our destination as +speedily as possible. + +June 23. + +We started early this morning, and proceeded along the beach till we came +to a small river, which was narrow and shallow, but the bottom being +muddy, and it being low-water, we diverged towards the sea, where the +sand was firmer, and there crossed it with little difficulty, without +unloading the packhorses or carts. The tide runs but a short distance up +this river, and as far as the tide goes it is fringed with a belt of +mangroves. The banks are muddy, and so soft that a man sinks up to his +knees in walking along them. A little above the mangroves the river +divides into several small creeks, in swampy ground, covered with small +melaleucas so thickly, that although they are not at all bushy below, but +have straight trunks of from three to five inches in diameter, and from +ten to twenty feet high, a man can scarcely walk between them. + +After crossing this river we again turned inland for a short distance, +and camped by the side of a small river south of the last; with steep +grassy banks on the north side, overhung by Tristanias and arborescent +Callistemons. On the south side grew mangroves, and the large +blue-flowered Ruellia seen at our first camp. The tide ran up to our +camp, the fresh water coming from the north-west. There were plenty of +waterholes in the valley, between the river and the higher sandy ground. +The grass here consisted principally of Agrostis, near the river, where +the land is occasionally inundated, and of Uniola, a little further back, +growing in tufts. On the sandy ridges, however, there was little else +than Xanthorrhoea, Xerotes, and Restio (rope grass). Here we saw a great +many native companions (Grus antigone), and swamp pheasants (Centropus +phasianus). + +June 24. + +Mr. Kennedy and a party of five men again proceeded to examine the +swamps, but returned without finding any practicable way of crossing. + +June 25. + +We started early this morning, proceeding towards the beach in a +southerly direction, the river turning again south by west, and camped +after travelling over five or six miles of rotten and rather sandy +ground. + +June 26. + +We proceeded along the beach till we came to a small river, most probably +the same we left yesterday, which we attempted to cross in the same +manner as we had done the one on the 23rd, but unfortunately the horses +and carts sank so deeply into the mud that they were completely set fast. +We were now obliged to unload, and carry the goods ashore. Some of the +flour-bags fell into the water, but were quickly taken out--very little +damaged. We had great difficulty in getting the carts out of the mud. + +A number of natives had accompanied us all day, and pointed out to us the +best place to cross the river. Some of them also assisted us in carrying +our things across, while one or two attempted petty thefts. I caught one +with two straps belonging to a saddle, and a pair of Mr. Kennedy's spurs +in his basket, which I took from him and sent him away. Many of these +natives were painted all over with a sort of red earth, but none of them +had visited us armed with spears for several days past. Some of them had +learned to address several of our party by name, and seemed pleased when +they received an answer. We frequently made them small presents, and +endeavoured to impress upon them the anxiety we felt to remain on +friendly terms with them. + +After having crossed the river we turned inland; cutting our way through +a belt of mangrove scrub, about half a mile wide; we got the carts +through with comparative ease, the ground being harder than usual. We +camped on a rising ground, with good grass around us, by the side of a +small creek running here almost parallel with the beach, and coming from +the westward. At this camp I obtained seeds of a dwarf spreading tree, +with alternate, exstipulate, pinnate leaves, and axillary racemes of a +round flattened fruit, similar in size and shape to the small blue fig +cultivated in gardens, of a dark purple colour, and possessing a flavour +similar to an Orleans plum when hardly ripe, with a hard rough stone +inside. + +June 27. + +We proceeded about five miles in a westerly direction, passing over two +small creeks running to the south-east. The country here appeared to be +gradually rising, and the land to be growing drier; and we now hoped to +be enabled to prosecute our journey without any great obstruction from +the swamps. + +June 28. + +Proceeding on the same course as on the previous day, we crossed two +small creeks, running rapidly to the eastward. The bottoms of these +creeks were covered with granite pebbles, of various sizes. The first +creek we crossed at the entrance, and the other near the middle of a +thick scrub, extending nearly three miles, and through which we had to +cut a road. The various plants of which this scrub was composed +corresponded with those described as forming the scrub near our first +camp in the Bay. The greatest obstacles to our progress through these +scrubs were the long shoots of the Flagellaria, and climbing palm. We +camped in an open patch of forest land, covered with grass, and the trees +consisted principally of Moreton Bay ash, (a species of eucalyptus), +Casuarina, and a rather large-growing Acacia, with broad, rhomboidal, +sericeous phyllodia, and very broad, flat legumes. + +Luff and Douglas were this day taken very ill with the ague. + +June 29. + +We found that some of our horses had strayed into the scrub, and we did +not succeed in finding them until nearly twelve o'clock, and Luff and +Douglas being no better, Mr. Kennedy with three others proceeded to +examine the country in advance of us. + +June 30. + +This morning Luff was a little better, but Douglas was able to eat but +little. In the scrub near our camp I found a species of Musa, with leaves +as large, and the plants as high, as the common banana (M. paradisiaca) +with blossoms and fruit, but the fruit was not eatable. I also found a +beautiful tree belonging to the natural order Myrtaceae, producing on the +trunk and large branches only abundance of white, sweet-scented flowers, +larger than those of the common rose-apple (Jambosa vulgaris), with long +stamens, a very short style, slightly two-cleft stigma, five very small +semi-orbicular petals, alternate with the thick fleshy segments of the +calyx, broad lanceolate leaves, the fruit four to six inches in +circumference, consisting of a white fleshy, slightly acid substance, +with one large round seed (perhaps sometimes more), the foot-stalk about +one inch long. This is a most beautiful and curious tree. Some specimens +which I saw measured five feet in circumference, and were sixty feet +high, the straight trunks rising twenty or thirty feet from the ground to +the branches, being covered with blossoms, with which not a leaf mingled. +There were ripe and unripe fruit mingled with the blossoms, the scent of +the latter being delightful, spreading perfume over a great distance +around; I had frequently noticed the fragrance of these blossoms while +passing through the scrub, but could not before make out from whence it +arose. It resembles the scent of a ripe pineapple, but is much more +powerful. There are not many of these trees to be found, and those only +in the scrub, in a stiff loamy soil. The small animals eat the fruit, and +I tasted some, but it was not so good as the rose-apple; we called it the +white-apple. It is a species of Eugenia. + +A short distance to the south-west of our camp, is a range of round +hills, of moderate height, covered with grass, and thinly timbered with +box and other species of eucalyptus, resembling the ironbark. These hills +are composed of huge blocks of coarse granite, with a stiff soil, and +appear to stretch a long distance to the west. + +July 1. + +Mr. Kennedy returned this morning, having explored the country for about +forty miles, over which he thought we might travel safely. There being +plenty of grass however at the camp, and the men no better, he determined +to defer our advance till Monday. + +July 2. + +Being Sunday, prayers were read at eleven o'clock. + +July 3. + +Early this morning we prepared to start, but Luff and Douglas being +seized with a fit of ague, we were compelled to stop. Although our horses +had all the way had abundance of feed, they began to grow very +thin--several of them very weak, and one getting very lame, from bad +feet. The sheep also had fallen away very much, which I attributed to the +wet journey they had had; being almost always wet, from crossing rivers +and creeks. + +July 4. + +Mr. Kennedy and three others roamed this morning to some distance from +the camp, when they were followed by a tribe of natives, making +threatening demonstrations, and armed with spears; one spear was actually +thrown, when Mr. Kennedy, fearing for the safety of his party, ordered +his men to fire upon them; four of the natives fell, but Mr. Kennedy +could not ascertain whether more than one was killed, as the other three +were immediately carried off into the scrub. + +July 5. + +Luff and Douglas now began to get better, but being still unable to walk, +we could not break up our camp. + +July 6. + +We started early this morning, and crossed two creeks with narrow belts +of scrub on each side, running north-east. I have little doubt these +creeks run into the river we crossed on the 8th of June. The banks of the +second creek were nearly twenty feet high, so that we were obliged to +lower down the carts into its bed by means of ropes and pulleys, fastened +to the branches of the trees which overhung the creek. The horses were +got into the creek with a great deal of difficulty, then harnessed to the +carts, and we proceeded along the bed of the creek till we arrived at a +spot where the banks on the opposite side were not so steep. At this +place by harnessing six horses to each of the carts, we managed to get +them all out of the creek without any accident. The bed of the creek was +composed of granite pebbles. We encamped on the northern side of it, the +soil being a strong clayey loam, well covered with grass two or three +feet high, so thick that it was difficult to walk through it. The country +here was hilly open forest-land, with a high range before us, running +north-east. The trees were principally Moreton Bay ash, box, and another +species of eucalyptus, resembling the common ironbark, but with long +narrow leaves. I also found a magnificent species of Grevillea, with fine +pinnatifid silvery leaves, and beautiful racemes of orange-coloured +flowers; also another tree belonging to the same natural order, rivalling +the Grevillea in the beauty of its flowers, producing an abundance of +cream-coloured blossoms, on compound, terminal racemes. In the scrub by +the side of the creek, I found a most beautiful Scitamineos plant, the +foliage, root, and habit of which resembled Hedychium. The beauty of the +plant consisted in its large, stiff, shining bracteae, which continue to +grow after the small pink blossoms have fallen. The bracteae are about +half an inch broad at the base, slightly curved inwards, and tapering to +a point. The heads of the flowers, resembling a pineapple in shape and +size, and of a beautiful crimson colour, are produced on the top of a +strong flower-stem, 18 inches high, and they will retain their shape and +colour a month after being cut. This plant appears to be very local in +its habits, as I only caught sight of it by the side of three creeks, and +always in moist, shady places. I obtained seeds, and also packed some of +its fleshy, tuberous roots in a tin case. + +We saw but few wallabies; and not one kangaroo or emu had as yet been +seen by any of the party. The country was not open enough for them to +inhabit. + +July 7. + +We started at daylight, proceeding over open forest ground covered with +long grass, very thick and luxuriant. Travelling was rendered still more +difficult by the large logs of dead wood which strewed the ground in +every direction, and which much impeded the progress of the carts. We +camped by the side of a creek, with a narrow belt of scrub on the +south-east side, but apparently a wide extent of it on the other. This +creek had a large sandy bed; with large Castanospermums, Tristanias, and +Sarcocephali growing on its banks, which were rather steep. It had a very +tortuous course, coming from south-west and turning east a little below +our camp, which was in a bend of the creek. + +July 8. + +We were employed nearly all this day in cutting through very thick scrub +on the other side of the creek. Whilst doing so we had to cross several +other smaller ones, all turning east, and in the evening we camped on a +small patch of open forest land, covered with long coarse grass, and +large blocks of coarse granite rock jutting out here and there. + +July 9. + +This being Sunday we halted for the day, and prayers were read at eleven +o'clock. + +July 10 and 11. + +We continued throughout these days cutting through belts of scrub and +crossing small creeks, running from the west and north-west, and turning +east. During the latter day we were visited by a small tribe of natives, +who appeared very friendly and did not stop long. I found a large +quantity of Castanospermum seeds in one of the creeks, apparently put +there to steep by the natives, who use them for food. They informed me +that they steep them in water for five days, and then cut them into thin +slices and dry them in the sun; they are then pounded between two large +stones, and the meal being moistened with water is baked on a flat stone, +raised from the ground a few inches, with a small fire burning beneath. I +afterwards saw some of the meal baked, but it was not very palatable. + +July 12 and 13. + +Our journey still continued through scrub, intersected by small creeks, +which we had to cross, and by patches here and there of open forest +ground, covered with long grass, the soil a stiff loam. We were not able +to make much progress, travelling on the average from three to five miles +a day. We were compelled to cut away the scrub, and the banks of some of +the creeks, before we were able to cross them, and frequently obliged to +run a creek up and down some distance before we could find a place where +it was passable at all. + +July 14. + +We started very early this morning, and commenced travelling over very +uneven ground, full of small hillocks, and having the appearance of being +frequently inundated, the grass growing very high and luxuriantly over +it. Owing to the irregularities of the surface the axletree of one of our +carts gave way this day. We were forced to leave the cart and harness +behind, and load the horses with the spare pack-saddles we had brought +with us, covering the load of each horse over with a piece of tarpaulin. +We travelled on till dusk, when we arrived at a small creek, overgrown +with grass, which we imagined we should cross with little difficulty; but +the carts were set fast in the mud, and some of the horses got bogged. We +were forced to carry the loading of our carts and saddle-horses over on +our shoulders, a task of no small difficulty and labour, the mud giving +way up to the knee at every step. The horses were then safely taken +across, and we lifted out the carts and carried them to the other side, +finding that it was useless to attempt to draw them out. It was ten +o'clock at night before we had got the things over, and as soon as we had +partaken of our late dinner we made a large fire to dry our clothes, +which had become completely saturated by the labours of the day. + +Mr. Kennedy arrived at the determination this day, to leave the carts +behind at this camp, as they caused so much extra labour and delay in +travelling. + +July 16. + +Sunday, we halted, and had prayers read at eleven o'clock. + +July 17. + +We got up early, and prepared all the loads ready for starting, but we +were obliged to leave many things behind, that would have been very +essential to the successful prosecution of all the objects of the +expedition; my specimen box, a cross-cut saw, pickaxes, and various other +articles which it was considered were too heavy to be carried on +horseback. We however took good care that not an ounce of provisions of +any description should be left behind. The sugar and tea were more +compactly packed than heretofore, and the packages in which they had +formerly been carried were left behind. Near this camp a large swamp +extended south-westward, but it was clear of scrub, containing nothing +but Melaleucas of moderate size. + +July 18. + +Having loaded the horses, we started at eight o'clock this morning, in +good hope and high spirits, rejoicing to have got rid of one great +impediment to our progress. The blacks regarded us with curious interest +as we proceeded on our way, forming a train of twenty-six horses, +followed by the sheep, and Mitchell occasionally sounding a horn he had +brought with him. + +We all felt the inconvenience of leaving the carts behind, and I in +particular. I was now obliged to make two strong bags to fit my specimen +boards, and to hang them over a horse's back, one bag on each side, a +very inconvenient method, as it rendered them liable to much damage going +through the scrub. The sheep at this time had grown very thin and poor, +not averaging more than thirty pounds when skinned and dressed; they had, +however, become so habituated to following the horses that they cost us +very little trouble in driving them. + +After travelling about six miles through open forest land we camped near +a creek on the skirts of a thick scrub. + +July 19. + +We were cutting through scrub all day, skirting numerous small creeks +which we met with here, most of them running to the eastward. The soil +was rather stiff, and indicated a rocky formation, blocks of granite +projecting from it in various directions. + +July 20, 21, and 22. + +During these three days we travelled over an irregular, mountainous +country, intersected by numerous creeks, running in every direction, but +all of them with belts of scrub on each side. We sometimes crossed the +same creeks two or three times a day, owing to the tortuous directions +they took, and our clothes were kept wet all the day; some of them too +had very steep banks, which presented another obstacle to the progress of +our horses. Between the creeks, small patches of open forest land +intervened, with large blocks of rock scattered over them; most of the +creeks had a rocky bottom, and were running to the eastward. + +July 23. + +Sunday, we had prayers read as usual at eleven o'clock, and halted for +the day. + +July 24. + +We resumed our journey through the same description of country, cutting +through scrub, and occasionally travelling through open land, timbered +principally with Moreton Bay ash, box, and flooded-gum, and covered with +very long grass. We crossed two creeks running to the northward, on the +side of the last of which we camped. We were here compelled to shoot one +of our horses, which had fallen lame. During the week we had made very +little progress, being forced to turn in every direction to avoid the +deep gulleys, and the scrub which invariably prevailed in the bends of +the creeks. A tribe of natives visited us at this camp, and appeared very +friendly; they did not stop with us long. I saw to-day several trees of +the white-apple, as we called it, and which I have before described. + +July 25. + +We entered the scrub on the side of the creek, and proceeded along its +banks with difficulty, being obliged to cut our way through, but it grew +less dense after we had skirted the creek a short distance. We found the +creek to be the branch of a river, which here divided, one branch running +to the south-east (by which we had camped yesterday)the other running +east. It is rocky, and shallow where it divides, but grows deeper in its +course towards the coast. It is about two hundred yards wide, and its +banks are overhung with trees on each side. After following it about a +mile up, it grew much more shallow and narrow, and had a rocky bottom. + +On the opposite side were patches of open forest ground, but they did not +extend to any distance. After skirting the river about three miles, we +crossed it in a shallow place, the bed of it being composed of blocks of +water-worn granite. The impediment offered by these blocks rendered it +very difficult for our horses to pass, although the water was only from +one to three feet deep. Several of the horses fell in crossing this +river; the one carrying my specimens fell three times, and my specimens +and seeds received much damage, if they were not entirely spoiled. + +The river here runs from the north-west. We crossed it and entered the +scrub, but not being able to get through it before dark, we tied our +horses to trees, and slept by them all night. + +July 27. + +We were cutting through scrub nearly all day, and having recrossed the +river, cut our way to the top of a high hill, which we could not avoid. +We found a patch of open ground on the hill, with grass for our horses +and sheep. The trees growing on the hill were casuarinas, and acacias, +with a few box-trees. Here we camped and tethered our horses, for fear +they should fall down the steep bank of the river. At the foot of the +hill, on the opposite side of this river, the rocks were of great height, +and almost perpendicular. The river runs through a range of hills coming +from the eastward, joining a very high range, over which our journey now +lay. This range is composed of a dark-coloured granite, very hard; near +the water was a vein of talc schist, running north-west and south-east. +On the top of the hill we found large pebbles of quartz. + +July 28. + +This morning, having loosed our horses from the tether, one of them fell +down from the hill upon a ledge of hard rock at the edge of the river, a +descent of thirty feet; he was so much injured by the fall that he died +during the day. We came down the hill through the scrub towards the +mountains, and camped but a short distance from where we rested the +previous evening. We were now at the foot of the range. + +July 29. + +Mr. Kennedy proceeded to explore the range, to ascertain the best spot to +cross it, it being covered with thick scrub. It runs from the southward +and turns eastward. I dug up a piece of ground here near the edge of the +scrub, and sowed seeds of cabbage, turnip, rock and water melons, +parsley, leek, pomegranate, cotton, and apple pips. + +I here found a beautiful orchideous plant, with the habit of Bletia +tankervilliae, flowering in the same manner, with flower-stems about +three feet high, and from twelve to twenty flowers on each stem. The +sepals were much larger than those of Bletia, and of a rich purple +colour; the column yellow, with a spur at the base of the flower about +three-fourths of an inch long. I packed some of its thick fleshy roots in +a tin case. I also here obtained specimens of a beautiful Hovea, with +long lanceolate leaves, a much finer shrub than H. celsii. Also a species +of Hibiscus, with rough palmate leaves, large bright sulphur-coloured +flowers, with a rich purple spot at the base of each petal, the stamens +and stigma bright red, the blossoms when fully expanded eight inches in +circumference; the plant has a very erect habit. Also another Hibiscus, +with obcordate tomentose leaves, and pink flowers; both these last were +very handsome shrubs. The trees on the open ground were casuarinas and +flooded-gums, with a few Balfourias. Although we had a very difficult +task before us--the ascent of the hills-our spirits did not fail us; but +the horses began to look very poor and weak, although they had always had +plenty of grass. + +July 31. + +Early this morning Mr. Kennedy, Jackey, and four others left the camp, +and began clearing a way up the mountain. They remained out the whole of +the day. + +August 1. + +Mr. Kennedy and his party returned to the camp, having determined on a +route by which we should proceed up the mountain. Mr. Kennedy spoke very +highly of Jackey, and thought him one of the best men of the party for +cutting away scrub and choosing a path; he never seemed tired, and was +very careful to avoid deep gullies. + +August 3. + +We started early this morning, and proceeded up a spur of the range, in a +north-westerly direction, but could not get so far as they had cleared. +We managed to get twenty-three horses and their loads up to a flat place +on the range, but, after several efforts, being unable to drive or lead +the other horse up, we left him tied to a tree in the scrub. We found him +all right the next morning, but as there was nothing but scrub before us, +Mr. Kennedy thought it prudent to send the horses back to where there was +grass and water for them, whilst some of the party cleared a path. After +we had entered the scrub, we crossed a small creek, running rapidly, and +which joined another running from the north-eastward, and which at their +junction, form the river we had been camped at for the last few previous +days. + +The creeks ran over precipitous rocky falls, and it was Mr. Kennedy's +opinion, that all the creeks we have met with on this side (coast side) +the range, run into the swamps, and there spread, and gathering again, +form into channels and run into Rockingham Bay. There is a large tract of +land opposite Rockingham Bay which is occupied by swamps, intersected by +patches of open ground, and a few peaked hills. The swamps extend about +forty-five miles, to about 145 degrees 20 minutes east longitude. It +seemed that a great deal of rain had fallen over this country, and it +rained at intervals all the time we were in the vicinity of Rockingham +Bay--from the 21st May to the middle of August. It was Mr. Kennedy's +opinion that the rainy season occurred very late this year. The whole +peninsula seemed to fall from the east towards the west. + +August 4. + +Mitchell, Dunn, and myself, took the horses and sheep to grass and water, +and having hobbled the former, we made ourselves a small hut with +saplings, and covered it with a small tarpaulin. We divided the night +watch into three parts, being four hours each. + +August 5. + +We mustered the horses morning and evening, and drove the sheep close to +the fire, having one of our kangaroo dogs chained up beside them, and the +other one with the sheep dog loose. We were apprehensive that the natives +might attack us. + +August 6. + +Shortly after we had mustered the cattle this morning, seven or eight +natives appeared at the edge of the scrub, in the direction from which we +had come. Just as they approached, an Australian magpie perched upon a +tree, and I shot it to show the effect of our firearms. On hearing the +report of the gun they all ran into the scrub, and we saw them no more. +On all occasions it was Mr. Kennedy's order--not to fire on the blacks, +unless they molested us. I was anxious on this occasion not to let the +natives know how few we were, and was glad to send them away in so quiet +a manner. One of our sheep died this day, and as we had lost several +before, and had but little to employ us, we opened it to see if we could +ascertain the cause of its death. We found its entrails full of water. +Our party was now divided into three bodies: Mr. Kennedy, Jackey, and +four others, clearing a way up the mountain; Niblett and three others +guarding the stores; whilst myself, Dunn, and Mitchell, had charge of the +sheep and horses. It was necessary, therefore, for us to keep a good +lookout, and two of us watched together. + +August 7. + +Early this morning a man came down to help us with the horses and sheep. +We loaded our horses, with the exception of one, which was too weak and +too much bruised from falling to travel. We turned him toward the open +ground, and having packed our horses went on till dark, when we tied our +horses to a tree and lay down for the night beside them, although it +rained all night. We had each of us a water can which held five pints, +which we filled, and our two water kegs, at the foot of the range, +fearing we might not find water in the journey over. + +August 8. + +At daylight we were afoot and breakfasted, and started immediately after. +We travelled up the hills all day, but made very little progress, owing +to the great labour of clearing, and the numerous steep ascents we met +with. We fortunately found water in a low place, and with difficulty +lighted a fire, everything being saturated with rain. We then laid down +and endeavoured to sleep, but were unable to do so from the number of +small leeches which attacked us. I was obliged to get up several times in +the night, and in the morning I found myself covered with blood. + +August 9. + +We started at daylight, although it was raining, and continued to do so +all day; about six o'clock in the evening we reached a small river, +running rapidly over rocks, and deep in some places. Its course was +north-easterly, but it turned north, a little below where we first came +upon it. We camped by the side of it, it being too late to cross, +although there was open forest ground on the other side. The open ground +on the coast side of the range was considerably lower than that on the +other, the highest part of our track being, according to Mr. Kennedy's +barometrical observations, upwards of two thousand feet above the level +of the sea. The soil was a strong loam of a dark colour, owing to the +admixture of a great deal of decomposed vegetable matter; rock projected +in many places, and in those parts where the rocks were near the surface, +Callitris (cypress pine) grew. In the deeper soil were large trees of the +genera Castanospermum, Lophostemon, and Cedrela, mingled with Achras +australis, Calamus (climbing palm), Seaforthia, Dicksonia, Osmunda, large +shrubs of Alyxia; several very interesting Orchideae were also found in +this place. We also discovered a great many snails, with very large +shells of a greyish colour. One I found on the bushes with an +operculum--this I gave to Wall. + +August 10. + +This morning we took the sheep and horses to a spot in the river where +the current was not so strong, and drove them across. The sheep followed +the horses like dogs. We then cut down three small straight trees, and +made a bridge across a deep channel which ran between two rocks which +projected out of the water, across which we carried our stores on our +backs. All the things were got over before dark, after which we made a +large fire to dry ourselves, having been wet to the waist all day. +Niblett, who had been very unwell for three or four days, was taken much +worse to-day. The position of our camp here was about 17 degrees 48 +minutes South latitude, 145 degrees 20 minutes East longitude. We this +day crossed the range, and prepared to commence our journey on the other +side. + +August 11. + +We remained this day at the camp to give the horses a rest after their +harrassing journey over the range. + +August 12. + +Proceeding about five miles over uneven open forest ground, with isolated +blocks of rock, we camped by a chain of rocky waterholes. The trees +growing here were casuarina, box, apple-gum, and ironbark. + +August 13. + +Sunday. Prayers as usual at eleven o'clock. + +August 14. + +Complaint was made to Mr. Kennedy of the waste and extravagant use of the +flour and sugar by Niblett, who had the charge of the stores. Mr. Kennedy +immediately proceeded to examine the remainder of the stores, when he +found that Niblett had been making false returns of the stores issued +weekly. Up to this time Mr. Kennedy, Niblett, and Douglas (who waited on +Mr. Kennedy) had messed together, apart from the other ten. Niblett took +charge of the ration for the smaller mess, and usually cooked it himself, +the ration being taken out weekly from that weighed for the whole party. +Besides issuing a larger ration to his own mess, Niblett had taken a +great deal from the stores for himself. + +On finding this out, Mr. Kennedy requested me to take charge of the +stores, and issue them to the cook for the week, and from this date we +all messed together. We had at this time about seven hundred pounds flour +left. Everything was weighed in the presence of the whole party before I +took charge, and I always weighed out every week's ration in the presence +of the cook and two other parties. At this camp it was found necessary to +reduce our ration to the following scale per week; fifty pounds flour, +twelve pounds sugar, two and three-quarter pounds tea, and the sheep as +before--one every second day. After the ration was cooked, it was divided +by the cook at every meal. We this day burned our sheepfold to lighten +our loads a little. + +August 15. + +We were cutting through scrub nearly all day, and crossed several small +creeks running westward. This day the horse carrying my specimens had +become so poor and weak that he fell five different times, and we were +obliged to relieve him of his load, which was now placed on one of Mr. +Kennedy's horses; but we soon found that even without a load he could not +travel. We took off his saddle, bridle, and tether rope, and left him +behind on a spot of good grass, where plenty of water was to be found. + +The country here had a rugged and broken appearance; huge blocks of rock +were lying on the open ground, sometimes one irregularly placed on the +top of another, and of curious shapes. The hills as well as the valleys +were generally covered with good grass, excepting in the scrub. On some +of the hills the rocks were shivered into irregular pieces, and displayed +crystals of quartz, small laminae of mica, and occasionally hornblende. +This evening we camped by the side of a fine casuarina creek, coming from +the north-east. Immediately over our camp its waters ran over a very hard +trap-rock of a black colour, the soil a stiff loam. + +August 16. + +We travelled on for the most part of this day over irregular, barren, +stony ridges, and gullies, intersected by numerous small creeks, and +abounding in rocky holes, all containing plenty of water. + +Two more of our horses fell several times this day; one of them being +very old, and so weak that we were obliged to lift him up. We now made up +our minds for the first time, to make our horses, when too weak to +travel, available for food; we therefore killed him, and took meat enough +from his carcass to serve our party for two days, and by this means we +saved a sheep. We boiled the heart, liver, and a piece of the meat to +serve us for our breakfast next day. We camped in the evening in the +midst of rocky, broken hills, covered with dwarf shrubs and stunted +gumtrees; the soil in which they grew appearing more sandy than what we +had yet passed on this side of the range. The shrubs here were Dodonaea, +Fabricia, Daviesia, Jacksonia, and two or three dwarf species of acacia, +one of which was very showy, about three feet high, with very small +oblong, sericeous phyllodia, and globular heads of bright yellow flowers, +produced in great abundance on axillary fascicles; also a very fine +leguminous shrub, bearing the habit and appearance of Callistachys, with +fine terminal spikes of purple decandrous flowers, with two small +bracteae on the foot-stalk of each flower, and with stipulate, oval, +lanceolate leaves, tomentose beneath, legumes small and flattened, three +to six-seeded, with an arillus as large as the seed; these were flowering +from four to twelve feet high. There was plenty of grass in the valleys +of the creeks. To the South-West on the hills the grasses were Restio, +Xerotes, and a spiny grass, which neither the horses nor the sheep would +eat. + +August 17. + +This morning we commenced to prepare our breakfast of horse-flesh. I +confess we did not feel much appetite for the repast, and some would not +eat it at all; but our scruples soon gave way beneath the pangs of +hunger, and at supper every man of the party ate heartily of it, and +afterwards each one claimed his share of the mess with great avidity. The +country to the north and north-west--the course we intended to +pursue--looking very rugged and broken, we were discouraged from +proceeding further this day, as the weak state of our horses prevented us +making almost any progress. We therefore camped by the side of a small +rocky creek, winding through the mountains in all directions. + +August 18. + +Shortly after starting this morning we crossed a creek, running +south-west, with a few arborescent Callistemons growing out of the rocks +here and there. The horse which Mr. Wall had been riding had grown so +weak that it was unable to travel, even with nothing to carry but the +saddle. As we were passing along the side of a hill, he fell and rolled +down into a gully. Being quite a young horse we thought he might regain +strength, and did not like to kill him, so we left him and proceeded to +find a good place for camping, which we did after travelling about four +miles in the north-west direction, by the side of a fine river, with +steep reedy banks, lined with large casuarinas and flooded-gum trees, and +abundance of grass growing in the valley of the river. At this camp the +feet of our horses were all carefully examined by Costigan, who was a +blacksmith: it was also his duty to mark the number of each of our camps +on some adjacent tree. + +August 19. + +Wall rode back to see if he could bring up the horse we had left behind, +but on reaching the spot found him dead; one of our kangaroo-dogs had +also stopped behind by the horse, being unable to follow us to the camp. +We had the good luck to succeed in catching several fish in the river, +and, what was better, shot a fine wallaby, which saved us another sheep. +We had all along been particularly unfortunate in getting anything from +the bush to add to our mess, not having been able either to shoot or +catch anything for some time past except a few pigeons and two or three +brown hawks. + +The river by which we were camped was running west by south: below our +camp it was not nearly so wide as at the spot where we came upon it. +Where it turned through the hills its banks were rocky and steep, and the +bed narrow, but running rapidly. The hills here, as well as the valley of +the river, were well covered with grass. The position of the camp was +about 17 degrees 30 minutes south latitude, 145 degrees 12 minutes east +longitude. + +August 20, 21, and 22. + +During the whole of these three days we travelled over undulating open +land, wooded pretty thickly with stringy-bark, box, and apple-gum, +interspersed with occasional sandy flats, producing a broad-leafed +Melaleuca, and a pretty species of Grevillea, with pinnatifid, silvery +leaves. Neither the Melaleuca nor the Grevillea grew more than twenty +feet high. On the flats we found a great number of ant-hills, remarkable +for their height and size; they were of various forms, but chiefly +conical, some of them rose ten feet high. From the appearance of the +ant-hills I should take the sub-soil to be of a reddish clay. + +August 23. + +We camped by the side of a creek running to the westward, with rather a +broad bed, and steep banks of strong clay. There was no water in the +creeks except in holes. + +A tribe of natives, from eighteen to twenty in number, were seen coming +down the creek, each carrying a large bundle of spears. Three of our +party left the camp and went towards them, carrying in their hands green +boughs, and making signs to the blacks to lay down their spears and come +to us. After making signals to them for some minutes, three or four of +them laid down their spears and approached us. I went back to the camp +and fetched a few fish-hooks, and a tin plate marked with Mr. Kennedy's +initials; having presented them with these they went away and appeared +quite friendly. Shortly after we had camped, Goddard and Jackey went out +for the purpose of shooting wallabies; they parted company at the base of +a hill, intending to go round and meet on the other side, but missing +each other, Jackey returned to the camp without his companion. To our +great alarm Goddard did not return all night, although we kept up a good +fire as a beacon to show him where we were camped, and fired a pistol +every five minutes during the night. + +August 24. + +Three of our party, accompanied by Jackey, rode to the spot where the +latter had left Goddard on the previous day, intending, if possible, to +track him, and succeeded in doing so for some distance to the eastward, +but then coming to some stony ground, they lost the track. + +They returned in about six hours, hoping to find him at the camp, but +were disappointed. We now began to fear that our companion was lost, and +poor Jackey displayed great uneasiness, fearing that he might be blamed +for leaving him, and repeatedly saying that he did not wish Goddard to +leave the camp at all, and that he had waited for him some time on the +opposite side of the hill, where they were to meet. Four fresh horses +were saddled, and Jackey, with Mr. Kennedy, Wall, and Mitchell, were just +on the point of starting to renew the search, when to our great joy we +observed him at a distance, approaching the camp. It would have been +sadly discouraging to the whole party to have lost one of our companions +in so wild and desolate a spot. We made but a short stage to-day in a +northerly direction, and camped by the side of a creek running west by +south, which, with the last two creeks we had passed, we doubted not, +from the appearance of the country, ran into the river we had crossed on +the 20th instant. The country appeared to fall considerably to the +westward. All the rivers and large creeks we had seen on this side the +range (that crossed on the 10th instant) rose in or near the coast range, +and appeared to run westerly across the peninsula into the Gulf of +Carpentaria. + +Although few of them appeared to be constantly running, yet there is an +abundance of water to be found in holes and reaches of the rivers and +creeks. Where there was any scrub by the side of the creeks, it was +composed principally of the climbing palm (Calamus), Glyceria, Kennedya, +Mucuna, and a strong growing Ipomoea, with herbaceo-fibrous roots and +palmate leaves; and in a few places bamboos were growing. + +The trees were, Eugenias, Terminalias, Castanospermums, with two or three +kinds of deciduous figs, bearing large bunches of yellowish fruit on the +trunks. Although we frequently partook of these figs I found they did not +agree with us; three or four of the party who frequently ate a great +quantity, although advised not to do so, suffered severely from pain in +the head and swelling of the eyes. The forest trees on the ironstone +ridges were stringy-bark, and on the grassy hills box, Moreton Bay ash, +and a tree belonging to the natural order Leguminosae, with axillary +racemes of white apetalous flowers, long, broad, flat, many-seeded +legumes, large, bipinnate leaves, leaflets oval, one inch long, and +having dark fissured bark; on the flat stiff soil grew ironbark, +apple-tree, and another species of Angophora, with long lanceolate +leaves, seed vessels as large as the egg of a common fowl and a smooth +yellow bark. + +August 27. + +This day being Sunday we had prayers at eleven o'clock. We saved the +blood of the sheep we had killed for today's food, and having cut up the +heart, liver, and kidneys, we mixed it all with a little flour and boiled +it for breakfast. By this means we made some small saving, and it was a +dish that we were very fond of. We saved all the wool that we could get +from our sheep, for the purpose of stuffing our saddles, a process which +was frequently required, owing to the poor condition of our horses. + +August 28. + +We started early this morning, but had not travelled far when one of our +horses fell from weakness; we placed him on his legs four times during +the day, but finding the poor animal could not walk, we shot him and took +sufficient meat from him with us to last us two days. After making but a +short stage, over ironstone ridges, covered with stringy-bark, and loamy +flats, producing Melaleucas and Grevilleas, we camped beside a small +creek, in the sandy bed of which there was no water, but from which we +soon obtained some by digging a hole about two feet deep. We afterwards +found there was plenty of water in the creek higher up to the eastward. + +August 29. + +We were obliged to leave another horse behind us this morning as he was +quite unable to travel. We camped by the sandy bed of a very broad river, +with water only in reaches and holes. There is, however, evidently a +great deal of water running here occasionally, as the bed of the river +was six or seven hundred yards wide, with two or three channels. The +flood-marks on the trees were fifteen feet high; it has a north-easterly +course; its bed was composed in places of large blocks of granite and +trap-rock, which was very difficult to walk upon, being very slippery. +Fine melaleucas were growing on each side, which with their long +pendulous shoots and narrow silvery leaves, afforded a fine shade from +the heat of the sun. There was plenty both of grass and water for the +horses, but most of them continued to grow weaker. + +August 30 and 31. + +The country was very mountainous and so full of deep gullies, that we +were frequently obliged to follow the course of a rocky creek, the +turnings of which were very intricate; to add to our difficulties, many +of the hills were covered with scrub so thickly that it was with much +difficulty that we could pursue our course through it. We had intended to +have kept along the bank of the river, thinking it might lead us to +Princess Charlotte's Bay, and although unable to do so, we did not as yet +lose sight of the river altogether. + +September 1. + +All this day we continued travelling over very uneven country, full of +precipitous rocks and gullies, until we came to a bend of the river: we +now followed it in its tortuous course through the rocks, till we came to +a flat country where its channels were divided by high green banks, on +which were growing large drooping tea-trees (melaleucas); growing on +these I found a beautiful species of Loranthus, with large fascicles of +orange coloured flowers, the leaves cordate, and clasping the stem. On +the hills I found a Brachychiton, with crimson flowers; the tree had a +stunted growth, with deciduous leaves. I collected as much of the gum as +I could, and advised the others to do the same; we ate it with the +roasted seeds, but were unable to find much of the gum or of the seeds. + +September 2. + +We travelled over uneven rocky ground, and crossed several gullies, and +camped by the bed of a river, at a spot where there were fine reaches of +water, full of Nymphaea and Villarsia. There was plenty of good grass in +the valley of the river, which was not very wide here, but on the hills +many parts had been recently burned, and the grass was just springing up. + +September 3. + +Sunday. We had prayers at eleven o'clock, and afterwards, during the day, +we shot a small emu and a kangaroo. Being camped by the side of the +river, we were able to catch a few fish, which were a most acceptable +change to us. + +The country through which we had passed for the last two days consisted +of a good stiff soil, well covered with grass, openly timbered and well +watered. + +September 4 and 5. + +The country continued much the same, making travelling most difficult and +laborious. We were now in the vicinity of Cape Tribulation. While +traversing the bed of the river, in which we were in many places obliged +to travel, we passed two very high peaked hills to the westward. + +September 6. + +We now found the river beginning to run in all directions through the +hills, over which it was impossible to travel. We were consequently +forced to keep the bed of the river, our horses falling every few +minutes, in consequence of the slippery surface of the rocks over which +they were obliged to pass--consisting of dark granite. + +The sterility of the hills here is much relieved by the bunches of +beautiful large yellow flowers of the Cochlospermum Gossypium, +interspersed with the large balls of white cotton, just bursting from the +seed-vessels. I collected a bag full of this cotton, wherewith to stuff +our pack-saddles, as our sheep did not supply us with wool enough for +that purpose. On these hills, too, I saw a beautiful Calythrix, with pink +flowers, and two or three very pretty dwarf acacias. As Mr. Kennedy and +myself were walking first of the party, looking out for the best path for +the horses to travel in, I fell with violence, and unfortunately broke +Mr. Kennedy's mountain barometer, which I carried. I also bruised one of +my fingers very much, by crushing it with my gun. + +September 7 and 8. + +We continued following the river through its westward course, through a +very mountainous country. On the hills I saw a very handsome Bauhinia, a +tree about twenty feet high, with spreading branches covered with +axillary fascicles of red flowers, long broad flat legumes, pinnate +leaves, leaflets oval, about one inch long; an Erythrina, with fine +racemes of orange-coloured flowers, with long narrow keel, and broad +vexillum, leaves palmate, and three to five lunate leaflets, long, round, +painted legumes, red seeds; also a rose-coloured Brachychiton, with +rather small flowers, a deciduous tree of stunted habit, about twenty +feet high. We also passed narrow belts of low sandy loam, covered with +Banksias, broad-leafed Melaleucas, and the orange-coloured Grevillea I +have before spoken of. On these flats we again met with large ant-hills, +six to ten feet high, and eight feet in circumference; the land at the +base was of a reddish colour. + +September 9. + +We had a fine view of the surrounding country from the top of a high +hill, in the midst of a range over which we passed. To the west and round +to the south the country appeared to be fine undulating forest land, +intersected by numerous creeks and small rivers falling considerably to +the westward, as in fact all the water had been running for some days +past. Doubtless there must be plenty of water in the holes and reaches of +these rivers and creeks at all seasons, but in the rainy season many of +them must be deep and rapid streams, as the flood-marks on the trees were +from fifteen to twenty feet high. The river along the course of which we +had been so long travelling varied in width from two hundred to eight +hundred yards. It has two, or, in some places, three distinct channels, +and in the flat country through which it passes these are divided by +large drooping melaleucas. + +It is singular that the country here should be so destitute of game; we +had seen a few wallabies and some ducks, but were seldom able to shoot +any of them; we had not seen more than four or five emus altogether since +we started; a few brown hawks which we occasionally shot, were almost the +only addition we were enabled to make to our small ration. To-day we got +an iguana and two ducks, which with the water in which our mutton was +boiled, would have made us a good pot of soup, had there been any +substance in the mutton. Even thin as it was, we were very glad to get +it. The rivers also seemed to contain but few fish, as we only caught a +few of two different kinds, one of which without scales, resembled the +catfish, caught near Sydney;* the other was a dark thick fish with +scales. + +(*Footnote. Plotosus macrocephalus.) + +September 10. + +Finding that the river continued running to the westward, and not as we +had hoped towards Princess Charlotte's Bay, we left it and turned in a +northerly direction, travelling over very rocky ridges covered with +cochlospermums and acacias, interspersed with occasional patches of open +forest land, and strewed with isolated blocks of course granite +containing crystals of quartz and laminae of white mica. Prayers as usual +at eleven o'clock. + +We had not seen natives for several days, but this night, whilst one of +the party was keeping watch, a short distance from the fire, about eleven +o'clock, he heard the chattering of the blacks. Three spears were almost +immediately thrown into the camp and fell near the fire, but fortunately +without injuring any of the party. We fired a few shots in the direction +from which the spears came; the night being so dark that we could not see +them. We entertained fears that some of our horses might be speared, as +they were at some distance from the camp, but fortunately the blacks +offered us no further molestation. + +September 11 and 12. + +We pursued our northern course, the ground becoming very rotten; by the +sides of small creeks in sandy flats were belts of broad-leafed +Melaleucas and Grevilleas. We met with scrubs of Leptospermum, Fabricia, +and Dodonaea. By the creeks, when the ground was sandy, we saw Abrus +precatorius, and a small tree about fifteen feet high, with bi-pinnate +leaves, the leaflets very small, with long flat legumes containing ten or +twelve black and red seeds, like those of Abrus precatorius, but rather +larger. + +September 13 and 14. + +Most part of these days we travelled over a country of stiff soil, +covered with iron-bark, and divided at intervals by belts of sandy +ground, on which grew Banksias, Callitris, and a very pretty Lophostemon, +about twenty feet high, with long narrow lanceolate leaves, and a very +round bushy top. By the side of the small streams running through the +flat ground, I saw a curious herbaceous plant, with large pitchers at the +end of the leaves, like those of the common pitcher-plant (Nepenthes +distillatoria). It was too late in the season to find flowers, but the +flower-stems were about eighteen inches high, and the pitchers would hold +about a wine-glass full of water. This interesting and singular plant +very much attracted the attention of all our party. + +We here fell in with a camp of natives. Immediately they saw us they ran +away from their camp, leaving behind them some half-cooked food, +consisting of the meal of some seeds (most likely Moreton Bay chestnuts) +which had been moistened, and laid in small irregular pieces on a flat +stone with a small fire beneath it. We took a part of this baked meal, +leaving behind some fish-hooks as payment. In the camp we also found a +considerable quantity of Pandanus fruit, which grows very plentifully +here. Although, however, it is sweet and pleasant to the taste, I found +that the natives did not eat largely of it, as it possessed very relaxing +qualities, and caused violent headache, with swelling beneath the eyes. + +Some narrow belts of land we passed here betrayed indications of having +been frequently inundated by fresh water. The ground was very uneven, +full of small hillocks which were hidden by long grass, which caused our +weak horses to fall very frequently. + +September 15. + +This day we had better travelling, the soil becoming a strong greyish +loam; the forest land open and free from scrub, the trees principally +consisting of iron-bark, box, and the leguminous tree, with bi-pinnate +leaves, and dark fissured bark I have before alluded to. We saw here a +great many pigeons of various kinds; Mr. Wall shot one pair of Geophaps +plumifera, which he preserved; also a pair of small pigeons of a greyish +colour, with red round the eyes, which he considered new. I also saw a +large tree and obtained specimens of it, belonging to the natural order +Bignoniaceae, with terminal spikes of yellow flowers, and rough cordate +leaves; and a Proteaceous plant with long compound racemes of white +flowers, and deeply cut leaves, resembling a tree with true pinnate +leaves. The large-seeded Angophora mentioned by me before, also grew in +this district. + +About ten o'clock we came upon the banks of a very fine river, with a +very broad bed, and steep banks on both sides. No doubt this was the +river we had seen to the eastward from our camp on the 9th instant. Mr. +Kennedy considered this stream to rise somewhere near Cape Tribulation, +and after running northward about thirty miles, to turn to the +south-west, the way it was running when we came upon it. In this place it +appeared a fine deep river, and we followed it in its south-west course, +at a short distance from its banks, for six or seven miles. The +south-east bank was, for the last three or four miles we traced it, +covered with a narrow belt of scrub, composed of Flagellaria, Jasminum, +Phyllanthus, and a rambling plant, belonging to the natural order +Verbenaceae, with terminal spikes of white, sweet-scented flowers. The +trees were principally Castanospermum, Melia, Rulingia, and +Sarcocephalus, and a beautiful tree belonging to the natural order +Bombaceae, probably to the genus Eriodendron, with large spreading +branches, which, as well as the trunk, were covered with spines. These +trees are from thirty to fifty feet in height, and produce large crimson +campanulate flowers, composed of five large stiff petals, about two +inches long; stamens numerous, all joining at the base, and divided again +into five parcels; the filaments are the same length as the petals; five +cleft stigma; large five-celled capsule, many-seeded cells, the seeds +being wrapped in a white silky cotton. This tree was deciduous, the +leaves being palmate, and grew on stiff soil: its large crimson flowers +attracted universal admiration. + +We crossed the river at a spot where its banks were not so steep, and +where there was but from one to three feet of water; in some places the +bottom was sandy and in others rocky, but we could see rock only in the +bed of the river. We camped on the side of the river, on some recently +burned grass; five of the party went fishing a short distance up the +river, and caught a few fish. The country here to the west and the +south-west was open undulating forest land, which had been burned some +short time before, and the grass just growing again, formed beautiful +feed for our horses and sheep. + +Towards evening about six or eight natives made their appearance, on the +same side of the river as our camp; when about two hundred yards from us +they shipped their spears in their throwing-sticks, and with other +warlike gestures gradually drew near to us, making a great noise, +doubtless thinking to frighten us. There being a wide deep gully between +the natives and our camp, we drew up along the edge of it, with our +firearms all ready to give them a warm reception should they endeavour to +approach to closer hostilities. We endeavoured to make them understand +that our intentions were friendly, and that we wished them to be +peaceable; but they seemed to construe our signals to make them +comprehend this, into indications of fear on our part; this increased +their courage, and strengthened their determination to drive us away if +possible, although they would not come within reach of our guns. We +however fired at them, and although none were hurt, they appeared much +frightened at the report of the firearms. They left us and went in the +direction taken by the five of our party who had gone fishing, and for +the safety of whom we began to be alarmed; our fears were increased, by +hearing the report of a gun a few minutes afterwards. It seemed they had +seen our party fishing by the side of the river, and instantly ran at +them, to attack them; but one of the party placed on the bank as a +lookout, fired at them as they came up, just as they were preparing to +throw their spears, on which they turned their backs, and took to flight +as fast as they could. + +September 16. + +This morning after breakfast, Mitchell and myself took two horses and +re-crossed the river. We went about two miles back to a spot where I had +seen some Portulaca, intending to bring some of it back to the camp to +boil as a vegetable, it being the only description of food of the kind +that we had been able to obtain throughout our journey. We filled a bag +with it and returned to the camp, when I found half a damper, one meal's +bread had been stolen from the stores during my absence. This was not the +first theft of the kind that had been committed, and it was found +necessary to watch the provisions night and day. Mr. Kennedy was anxious +to discover the thief in this instance, as it was stolen in open daylight +while Mr. Kennedy himself was keeping a lookout in his tent, not twenty +yards from where the provisions were stolen; every man's load was +searched, but in vain, and Mr. Kennedy, knowing that a party left the +camp for the purpose of fishing a short distance up the river, and +another party a few yards down the river to wash some clothes--took +Jackey with him, who, by detecting some crumbs on the ground, discovered +that the damper had been eaten at the place where the clothes were +washed. + +So careless were some of the party of the fatal consequences of our +provisions being consumed before we arrived at Cape York, that as soon as +we camped and the horses were unpacked, it was necessary that all the +provisions should be deposited together on a tarpaulin, and that I should +be near them by day and by night, so that I could not leave the camp at +all, unless Mr. Kennedy and Mr. Wall undertook to watch the stores. I was +obliged to watch the food whilst cooking; it was taken out of the boiler +in the presence of myself and two or three others, and placed in the +stores till morning. + +It was seldom that I could go to bed before nine or ten o'clock at night, +and I had to be up at four in the morning to see our tea made and +sweetened, and our breakfast served out by daylight. The meals we cut up +in thirteen parts, as nearly equal as possible, and one person touched +each part in succession; whilst another person, with his back turned, +called out the names of the party, the person named taking the part +touched. The scrupulous exactness we were obliged to practise with +respect to our provisions was increased by our misfortune in getting next +to nothing to assist our scanty ration; while the extreme labour to which +we were subjected increased our appetites. Two of the party always went +out at daylight to fetch the horses in, and it was necessary we should +start at early morning on account of the great heat in the middle of the +day. We always endeavoured to make a fair stage by ten o'clock, and then, +if in a convenient place, to halt: sometimes we were obliged to halt at +nine o'clock, but we started again generally about three or four o'clock +P.M., and travelled on till six. + +Twelve or fourteen natives made their appearance at the camp this +evening, in the same direction as on the previous day. Each one was armed +with a large bundle of spears, and with boomerangs. Their bodies were +painted with a yellowish earth, which with their warlike gestures, made +them look very ferocious. The grass in the position they had taken up was +very long and very dry, quite up to the edge of the gully; they set it on +fire in three or four places, and the wind blowing from them to us, it +burned very rapidly. Thinking we should be frightened at this display +they followed the fire with their spears shipped, making a most hideous +noise, and with the most savage gestures. Knowing the fire could not +reach us, as there was nothing to burn on our side the gully, we drew up +towards them with our firearms prepared. They approached near enough to +throw three spears into our camp, one of which went quite through one of +our tents. No one was hurt, but a few of our party fired at them; we +could not tell whether any were wounded, as they disappeared almost +immediately. We kept three on watch this night for fear of the natives. + +September 17 to 21. + +Leaving the river, we turned north-west, and had occasionally fair +travelling over stiff soil, intersected by many creeks, most of them dry, +but were everywhere able to find water at intervals of a few miles. We +passed over some ironstone ridges, and rocky hills, covered with +Callitris, Cochlospermum, and Sterculias. On the stiff soil the trees +were ironbark, box, apple-gum, and some large acacias, with long +lanceolate phyllodia, and large spikes of golden-coloured flowers. The +grass here in the valleys between the hills had been burned, and was +grown up again about eight or ten inches high. + +September 22. + +We crossed a creek running eastward, overhung by Melaleucas and +arborescent callistemons, with plenty of grass on both sides; the soil +appeared to become more sandy than that over which we had hitherto +passed. + +September 23. + +We proceeded in our course, travelling over sandy ridges covered with +Eugenia, Exocarpus, and a very pretty Eucalyptus, with rose-coloured +flowers and obcordate leaves, and yellow soft bark, also a dwarfish tree +with dark green leaves, and axillary racemes of round monospermons, fruit +of a purple colour, with a thin rind of a bitter flavour; also a great +many trees of moderate size, from fifteen to twenty feet high, of rather +pendulous habit, oval lanceolate exstipulate leaves, loaded with an +oblong yellow fruit, having a rough stone inside; the part covering the +stone has, when ripe, a mealy appearance, and very good flavour. I +considered from its appearance it was the fruit which Leichhardt called +the nonda, which we always afterwards called it; we all ate plentifully +of it. + +The weather for the last few days had been very hot, the thermometer +ranging in the shade from 95 to 100 degrees at noon; still there was +generally a breeze in the morning from the eastward, and in the evening +from the west. We camped by the same creek as on the previous day, but in +our present position it was running South-West, with several lagoons in +the valley, full of Nymphaea and Villarsia; our latitude here was 15 +degrees 33 minutes south. + +September 24. + +We crossed the creek and proceeded northward, till we camped by a dry +creek, from the bed of which we obtained water by digging. During the +day's journey, we passed over some flats of rotten honeycomb ground, on +which nothing was growing but a few stunted shrubs, and a blue herbaceous +plant belonging to the order Boragineae. We also passed over other sandy +flats covered with broad-leafed Melaleucas and Grevillias, and a few +Banksias. On these flats ant-hills occurred, and in their vicinity there +was seldom much grass. The grasses generally growing there were annual +kinds. It was Mr. Kennedy's opinion that the creek we crossed this +morning joined the river we left on the 16th, and formed the Mitchell, +although the country hereabouts did not resemble the banks of the +Mitchell, as described by Leichhardt; but the appearance of the country +varies so much every few miles, particularly to the westward, that it is +impossible to support an opposite opinion on this ground. + +September 25. + +As three of the horses could not be found this morning, four men were +left behind to search for them while the rest of the party travelled on. +They had not come up with us at about four o'clock, and being anxious to +find water before dark, we proceeded along a narrow open valley covered +with long grass and large pandanus trees, skirted on each side by rather +scrubby forest land. At dark we reached a large waterhole. One of the men +left behind shortly arrived, and stated that the rest had halted for the +night. Mr. Kennedy being anxious to bring all the horses to water, and to +have the party together, sent me back to conduct them to the camp, which +I very soon did, even though it was dark, the track being very plain. We +collected a great many nondas to-day and baked some of them with our +bread, which was the only way we could eat them cooked; they were much +better fresh from the trees, but we found them rather astringent. Spring, +our best kangaroo dog, was unable to come up to the camp this day, being +overpowered by the heat of the sun, a circumstance we all regretted, as +he was a most excellent watchdog. + +September 26. + +We travelled a good stage this morning before we found water--in a sandy +creek, where the country seemed to fall slightly to the north-east. We +still hoped to find a river running into Princess Charlotte's Bay. + +September 27. + +We proceeded North-East over alternating sandy ridges and marshy flats; +the latter, though dry where we passed over them, presented the +appearance of being generally inundated. We camped by the side of a rocky +creek, containing very little water. + +September 28. + +Just as we were about to start this morning, two natives, carrying a +bundle of reeds and a basket, passed within a short distance of our camp, +and seemed to take no notice of us. Our sheep were not to be found, +having rambled to a distance: although without a sheepfold, this was the +first instance in which the sheep had strayed; they generally remained by +the fire, towards which they were driven at night, till morning. + +We had never seen a wild native dog during the journey. Our dog that we +had left behind came into the camp to-night, very much exhausted, having +travelled about thirty miles; he must have subsisted on nondas, as it was +impossible he could have caught anything, and we had seen him eat them +before. He died the following morning. + +September 30. + +After travelling a short distance we crossed a small river running +eastward: for some distance down it, the water was brackish, and at +spring-tide the salt water came up to our camp; but we obtained good +water from a small lagoon near the camp. We proceeded over a large plain +well covered with good grass, the soil stiff clay. We proceeded about +five or six miles on this plain, turning westward towards a lagoon +surrounded by Stravadiums and a few very large palms. We hoped to find +water in it, but it was dry, and fearing we should not be able to reach +water before dark if we proceeded in this direction, we thought it better +to return to our camp. + +October 1. + +We had prayers this day as usual on Sundays, at eleven o'clock. We saw +native fires at a distance to the north-east of our camp, but the natives +did not come near us. I went up what we fancied was the river by which we +had camped, but found it only a creek; but it had plenty of water in it +at this season. There were several small lagoons near it. There were +large drooping tea-trees (Melaleucas) growing on its banks, and large +palm trees, of the same kind as those I had seen in the plain the day +before, and which were by far the finest palms I had ever seen; the +trunks were not very high, from fifteen to thirty feet in height, but +very large in bulk, varying from six to eight feet in circumference: they +had large fan-shaped leaves, with slightly curved spines on the +footstalk. It is a dioecious palm, the female plants bearing an immense +quantity of round fruit, about the size of a greengage plum, of a purple +colour, and rather disagreeable flavour; the pulp covering the seed was +very oily, and not a leaf to be seen on any of the fruit-bearing plants; +the whole top consists of branches full of ripe and unripe seeds. Bushels +of seeds were lying beneath some of the trees, it seeming that but few +were eaten by birds or small animals. One of our party suffered severely +from eating too freely of them as they brought on diarrhoea. I measured +two or three of the leaves of the male plants, and those not of the +largest size, and found them to measure six feet in the widest part, and +four feet and half in the narrowest. These leaves were split by the wind +into segments of various widths. The grass growing to the westward of our +camp was not so high as that to the eastward, and appeared to consist of +a larger proportion of annual grasses, the perennial grass growing only +in tufts; near the river it was covered with an annual Ipomoea, of very +strong growth; the leaves and blossoms were withered, but I obtained +seeds. We shot three ducks to-day, and Wall killed a wallaby of a light +grey colour, long soft fur, and rather bushy tail; he thought it new, and +preserved the skin. I also obtained specimens of a beautiful plant, a +shrub about two feet high, with white sweet-scented blossoms, belonging +to the natural order Rubiaceae, and several other interesting plants. +Lately, however, my specimens had been very much spoiled, being torn from +the horse's back so frequently, that I grew disheartened to see all the +efforts I had made, made in vain, although I still took every method to +preserve them from injury. + +October 2. + +This morning we proceeded across the plain, and when we had advanced +about two miles upon it, we discovered that the natives had set the grass +on fire behind us, and the wind blowing from the eastward, and the grass +growing thick and high, it rapidly gained upon us; we made all possible +haste to some burned ground which we had seen on Saturday, and reached it +only a few minutes before the fire. We were enveloped in smoke and ashes, +but fortunately no one was burned. The natives did not come near us, +although no doubt they watched us, and saw us proceeding to the part of +the plain that was burned. The plain extended a great distance to the +westward, and in crossing it one of our horses knocked up and could +travel no longer; Mr. Kennedy ordered him to be bled, and we not liking +to lose the blood, boiled it as a blood-pudding with a little flour, and +in the situation we were, we enjoyed it very much. + +October 3. + +We killed the horse this morning as he was not able to stand, and dried +the meat to carry with us; we made a small stage of saplings on which to +dry the meat, which was cut off close to the bone as clean as possible, +and then cut in thin slices, and laid on the stage in the sun to dry, and +the sun being very hot, it dried well; the heart, liver, and kidneys were +parboiled, and cut up fine, and mixed with the blood of the horse and +about three pounds of flour; they made four puddings, with which, after +they had boiled about four hours, we satisfied our appetites better than +we had been able to do for some time: it was served up in the same manner +as our usual rations, in equal parts, and each man had a right to reserve +a portion of his mess till the next day, but very little was saved. Mr. +Kennedy found that it was even necessary to have the horseflesh watched +whilst drying, finding that two or three of the party had secreted small +quantities amongst their clothes; such precautions were quite necessary, +as well in justice to the whole of the party, as to keep up the strength +of all, which seemed to be very fast declining. At night we made a fire +to smoke the meat, and to destroy the maggots, which were very numerous +in it; we packed the meat in empty flour bags. + +October 4. + +We proceeded northward over small sandy plains, covered with annual +grass, which was now very much withered, and through belts of dwarf bushy +Melaleucas and Banksias. We were not far from Princess Charlotte's Bay, +Jane's Table Land being in sight. We came to the side of a salt lagoon, +very nearly dry; we found it covered with salt, of which we took about 20 +pounds, which was as much as we could carry, but even this was a very +seasonable help; we rubbed about two pounds of it into our meat. We +encamped by a small creek, but the water was brackish, and not being able +to find any other we were obliged to make use of it. One of our horses +was slightly hurt by a stump of a mangrove tree. All we got from the +horse we last killed was sixty-five pounds of meat. + +October 5 and 6. + +We travelled over sandy soil, but with little grass, meeting frequently +with salt lagoons, surrounded by various salsolaceous plants. Near the +edge of a saltwater creek we found a native camp, composed of about seven +or eight huts, curiously and neatly built of a conical form; all very +nearly of the same size, about five and a half feet in diameter at the +base, and six and a half feet high. They were made by placing saplings in +the ground in a slanting position, which were tied together at the top +and woven inside like wickerwork, with strips of small bamboo canes. The +whole was then covered with palm leaves, over which was a coating of +tea-tree bark, very neatly fastened by strips of cane. They were +substantially built, and would no doubt keep out the wet effectually. +They seemed to be occupied by the natives only in the rainy season, as, +from their appearance, they had not been inhabited for some time. I +entered one of them through a small arched opening of about twenty inches +or two feet high, and found three or four nets, made with thin strips of +cane, about five feet long, with an opening of about eight inches in +diameter at one end, getting gradually smaller for about four feet, where +there was a small opening into a large round sort of basket. These nets +were laid by the natives in narrow channels to catch fish, as well as in +the tracks of small animals, such as rats and bandicoots, for the purpose +of trapping them. There were also some pieces of glass bottle in the hut, +carefully wrapped in bark and placed in a very neat basket, made in the +shape of a lady's reticule. The glass is used by the natives in marking +themselves: all of them being scarred on the arms and breast, while some +were marked on the cheeks and forehead. + +In the camp we thus discovered were small stone ovens, similar to those +we had found in the camp at Rockingham Bay, as well as one with a large +flat stone raised six or eight inches from the ground, and a fireplace of +loose stones beneath. Near to one of the tents was a large stone hollowed +out in the middle, and two or three round pebbles for pounding dried +seeds, etc. + +October 7 and 8. + +Flat sandy ground, with occasional patches of scrub, composed of bushy +Melaleucas, Hibiscus, Banksia, and several rambling plants, with a few +large palms scattered in places; there was not much grass, except at +intervals. + +October 9. + +This morning we came to a river, running into Princess Charlotte's Bay, +in latitude 14 degrees 30 minutes South, longitude 143 degrees 56 +minutes. It was deep, and about 100 yards wide, the water salt, and the +tide was flowing up fast, and the banks were high. A few scattered +mangroves, and a leguminous tree, with rough cordate leaves, and large +one or two-seeded legumes, were growing on the banks. We were obliged to +turn southerly for a short distance, and found what we had fancied to be +a river to be only a small creek. We crossed it about twelve or fourteen +miles from the sea, but the water was brackish. The trees on the sandy +ground were broad-leafed Melaleucas, Grevilleas, and nondas, and by the +waterholes which we occasionally saw, were Stravadiums and drooping +Melaleucas. I also saw a species of Stravadium with racemes of white +flowers, much longer than the others, with leaves ten inches long by four +inches broad, and the trees thirty feet high. Keeping at a distance from +the sea-coast to avoid the saltwater creeks, and to obtain good grass for +our horses, we halted in the middle of the day, and were visited by a +great many natives, coming in all directions, and making a great noise. +They appeared to have been collecting nondas, as a great many of their +women were carrying large basketfuls away. After the women were out of +sight they made signs to us to go away. We got our horses together, and +endeavoured to make them friendly, but our entreaties were disregarded, +and the presents we offered them were treated with contempt. When we +found they would not allow us to come near them, we packed our horses and +prepared to start. They followed us at some distance, continually +throwing spears after us for some time; one was thrown into the thigh of +a horse, but fortunately not being barbed it was taken out, and the horse +was not much injured. We then rode after them in two or three directions +and fired at them, and they left us, and we saw no more of them. + +October 11. + +To-day, when halting in a place where there was no water, but good grass, +a tribe of natives made their appearance, and appeared disposed to be +friendly. We carefully collected our horses, and shortly after the +natives drew near to us. We made them presents of a few fish-hooks and +tin plates, and made signs to them that we wanted water. Several of them +ran off, and in a few minutes returned with water in a vessel (if it may +be so called) composed of pieces of bark tied together at each end, and +they continued going backwards and forwards until they had brought enough +to fill our cans, besides what we drank. They left us quite quietly. + +October 12. + +We proceeded along the creek by which we had encamped the night before; +the water was brackish. We attempted to go through some mangroves to the +beach, but did not succeed. + +October 13. + +Jackey, Taylor, and myself took three horses, and tried to get to the +beach more to the northward than yesterday. We passed through a belt of +mangroves, where the ground was pretty firm, the tide coming up only +occasionally; we then proceeded along a sandy ridge to the northward, +when we found it succeeded by a saltwater lagoon, surrounded by +salsolaceous plants and mangroves, which it was impossible to get +through. We returned to our camp, and here Mr. Kennedy abandoned the +thought of going to the beach, as he felt sure H.M.S. Bramble (which was +to have met us at the beginning of August) would have gone; our journey +having occupied so much longer time than we could have possibly +anticipated. This consideration, combined with the great difficulty which +seemed likely to ensue in obtaining water and feed for our horses, +determined him to take a different direction. + +October 15. + +We had prayers as usual this day, being Sunday, at 11 o'clock; today we +finished the consumption of all our sugar, except a very small quantity, +which was reserved for any particular case of sickness. + +October 16. + +This morning a horse fell into a rocky waterhole, and finding it +impossible to get him out alive, we killed him, and cured the flesh as +before, drying it in the sun on a stage; the blood, heart, and liver +furnished us with a good day's food. Our meat being well dried by five +o'clock in the afternoon, we sprinkled some salt upon it, and put it in +bags for the convenience of carrying. We left one of our round tents, and +such other things as we could possibly spare behind us at the camp, as +our horses were now so weak they could not carry their loads. + +October 17 and 18. + +Our travelling was very uneven, our horses giving us continual trouble +from their frequent falls; we had a few narrow belts of scrub to cut +through, but they were not very thick. + +October 19. + +Several of our horses were now quite unable to carry anything but the +saddle; we passed through open forest land, with a light soil, sub-soil +clay, with isolated blocks of granite rock scattered about. We encamped +by a rocky creek, with water in holes only; it ran westerly, and had +fresh green feed on each side, the grass having been burned shortly +before, and now growing up again. + +October 20. + +We passed over a piece of stiff ground about two miles in extent, which +appeared to have been the scene of a devastating hurricane. It was +covered with fallen timber, which rendered it very difficult to cross. +The wind must have swept from the south-west to the north-east, and from +the appearance of the saplings which were growing from the stumps of some +of the trees which had been broken, this terrific storm appeared to have +taken place about two years ago. Not a tree had been left standing in the +part where we crossed, nor could we tell how far the devastation had +extended to the south-west; but the ground to the north and east being +swampy, and covered only with small Melaleucas and Banksias, the wind had +not taken much effect. Many of the trees in the middle of the fallen +timber measured two feet in diameter. Some were torn up by the roots, and +the trunks of others were snapped off at various heights from the ground. +The latitude of our camp here was 13 degrees 35 minutes South. + +October 21. + +We killed another of our horses to-day, as he was too weak to stand. + +October 22. + +We got our meat well dried to-day, and having smoked it a little, packed +it as before. Our stock of flour was now reduced to two hundred pounds +weight, and many of the men growing very weak, we were obliged to +increase our weekly ration a little. Three of the party, Douglas, Taylor, +and Costigan, were suffering from diarrhoea, in consequence of having +eaten too freely of the pandanus fruit. Their spirits began to fail them, +and they frequently complained despairingly to Mr. Kennedy that they +should never be able to reach Cape York. Although our horses were so very +weak, these men were obliged to ride, being quite unable to walk far at a +time. The country before us was very mountainous, but between the hills +we found plenty of grass and water: to the south the whole country +appeared to be on fire. + +October 23 to 25. + +We travelled during these days over a rocky mountainous country, +interspersed with deep gullies and creeks, fringed with belts of scrub. +In these scrubs I saw the white-apple and the crimson scitamineous plant +seen near Rockingham Bay; scattered over the country were a few cedar +trees and Moreton Bay chestnuts, and some very fine timber trees +belonging to the natural order Myrtaceae, upwards of sixty feet high, and +three to four feet in diameter, with fine straight trunks. + +October 26 to 28. + +We travelled over stony hills, the tops of which were occasionally +composed of white flint (?), with rusty veins running through it. On the +sides of the hills were broken rocks containing mica, hornblende, and +crystals of quartz. The grass on these hills had all been newly burned. + +October 29. + +Sunday; prayers at eleven o'clock. We this day shot three small +wallabies, which were a great treat to us. + +October 30. + +This day Luff was taken very lame, being seized with severe pain and +stiffness in the right leg; he was quite unable to walk, so we burned the +other two round tents to enable him to ride. + +November 1 and 2. + +We again had to kill a horse which was too weak, and disposed of it as we +had our former ones. + +November 3. + +We were cutting through scrub all day, intersected by deep gullies and +rocky hills; we crossed a small river, with very uneven rocky bottom, +about three feet deep; where we crossed it, it was running southerly, and +as there had been a heavy storm a few days previously, the current was +rapid; five of our horses fell in crossing it--the one carrying my +specimens in a very bad place; we were obliged to cut the girths, and +before I could secure his load two bags of seeds were washed away; we +tied our horses to trees, and encamped in a thick bamboo scrub by the +side of the river. + +November 4. + +This morning Jackey went to examine a scrub through which we wanted to +pass, and while out, shot a fine cassowary; it was very dark and heavy, +not so long on the leg as the common emu, and had a larger body, shorter +neck, with a large red, stiff, horny comb on its head; Mr. Wall skinned +it, but from the many difficulties with which he had to contend, the skin +was spoiled before it could be properly preserved. + +November 5. + +We travelled a short distance to the top of a hill, from which Jackey had +seen grass from a tree. We were obliged to kill another horse to-day, and +cured the flesh as usual. + +November 6. + +We were compelled to shoot two other horses to day, and as we had no +other means of taking the meat with us, we skinned one of them, and made +the skin into bags, in which we each carried a few pounds of meat on our +backs. + +November 7 and 8. + +We were travelling these two days over very rough rocky ground, +intersected with gullies and belts of scrub. + +November 9. + +We were obliged this morning to start without our breakfast, having no +bread baked, and being unable to find water. We followed the course of a +creek at the foot of a low range of hills running northward, the range +being to the westward. In the evening we found water in the creek. + +November 10. + +We proceeded along the valley of the creek, which was very uneven, and +full of small hillocks. Near the spot where we camped a great number of +Pandanus trees were growing. On each side of the creek there were a few +scattered trees and a thick scrub to the westward. The soil was stiff, +with plenty of grass in the valley. + +Mr. Kennedy, here, finding from the weak state of some of the men, that +it would be impossible for us to reach Cape York before our provisions +were exhausted, resolved to form an advance party, consisting of himself, +Jackey, Costigan, Luff, and Dunn. + +We had but nine horses left, of which number it was proposed that they +should take seven, and proceed to Cape York as quickly as possible, to +obtain provisions for the rest of the party from the vessel waiting with +supplies for our homeward journey. + +November 11. + +We proceeded along the valley a short distance, with the view of forming +our depot as near to Weymouth Bay as possible. We crossed the creek where +it turned eastward, on a kind of bank, which intercepted its course, up +to which, from the east, the tide came sometimes, so that on that side +the creek the water was brackish, but very good water was obtainable on +the other side the bank. + +After we had camped, we killed our last sheep, and Mr. Kennedy proceeded +to the top of a high hill to view the country over which he would have to +pass. Shortly after his return to the camp several natives made their +appearance, to whom we made a present of a tin plate and a few +fish-hooks, which made them quite friendly. While they were looking at +us, a great many brown hawks came hovering over the camp. Wall and Jackey +shot fourteen or fifteen of them, in the presence of the natives, who +retired to the edge of the scrub, and seemed very much surprised to see +the hawks fall as soon as they heard the report of the guns. They went +into the scrub at dark, but a good watch was kept all night; though the +natives did not again make their appearance. One of our dogs killed a +young dog belonging to the natives during the night, which I afterwards +ascertained was eaten by Dunn, Luff, Costigan, and Goddard. + +November 12. + +Sunday: prayers at eleven; Jackey and I went to the beach to see if we +could find any salt, as our stock was getting very low, but we could not +succeed in finding any. + +November 13. + +This morning everything was prepared for the departure of Mr. Kennedy and +his party, and the last of our mutton was served out equally to each of +the party. + +Mr. Kennedy gave me written instructions how to act during our stay at +Weymouth Bay, it being his intention to send for us by water, if +possible, as he expected to meet H.M.S. Bramble at Port Albany. He +calculated that he should be from ten to fifteen days before he reached +that place, and directed me to keep a sharp lookout from the hill for a +vessel; and should I see one, to hoist a flag on the hill. If the natives +were friendly I was to put a ball beneath the flag, and above it should +they be hostile. In the evening I was to fire three rockets, at intervals +of about twenty minutes. + +The party left at the depot under my charge were eight in number. The +provisions consisted of two horses and twenty-eight pounds of flour, the +former being very poor and weak. + +Not knowing whether he could send for us by water or not, Mr. Kennedy +directed me to make my provisions last at least six weeks, saying that it +was possible I might get relief fourteen days after his departure, and to +keep a very sharp lookout after that time. + +I packed up all the dried meat we had left (75 pounds) and 18 pounds of +flour for Mr. Kennedy to take with him, and about one pound of tea was +divided between the two parties. These, with their firearms, and a few +necessaries of a light description, were all the party took with them. +Mr. Kennedy requested me to register the height of the thermometer during +my stay at the Bay. The whole of the party left at the camp were very +weak, Luff being the weakest man that proceeded with the party to Cape +York. + +Before leaving Mr. Kennedy told me that he expected to meet with some +difficulties for the first few days, from the nature of the country he +had seen from the hill. I did not mention this to the rest of the party, +for fear it might still further tend to depress their spirits, as three +or four of them even now seemed to despair of ever reaching our +destination. I did all in my power to keep them in good heart, but they +were saddened and depressed from long suffering. + +We removed our camp back across the creek to the side of the high bare +hill on which I was to hoist a flag, and from which I could look out for +a vessel. It also afforded us a security from the natives, as we could +see them at a greater distance. The latitude of this camp was 12 degrees +35 minutes South. + +And thus we settled down in the spot which was to be the burial place of +so many of our party--which was fated to be the scene of so much intense +suffering, and of such heart-sickening hope deferred. Wearied out by long +endurance of trials that would have tried the courage and shaken the +fortitude of the strongest, a sort of sluggish indifference prevailed, +that prevented the development of those active energies which were so +necessary to support us in our critical position. The duties of our camp +were performed as if by habit, and knowing how utterly useless complaint +must be, the men seldom repined aloud. + +November 14. + +We killed the smallest horse early this morning, and had all the meat cut +up and on the stage to dry by nine o'clock. I made the blood, heart, +liver, kidneys, and tripe last us three days, as they would not keep +longer, and we mixed our allowance of flour with them. We had no salt to +season them with, as all our salt was required to put in the blood to +prevent it turning sour. The heat during this day was very great, the +thermometer at noon in the shade standing at 110 degrees. Douglas was +very weak. The natives came this afternoon, but did not stay long. + +November 16. + +The natives this day brought us a few small pieces of fish, but they were +old and hardly eatable. I would not allow them to come near the camp, but +made signs to them to sit down at a distance, and when they had done so I +went to them and distributed a few fish-hooks. Douglas died this morning, +and we buried him at dusk when the natives were gone, and I read the +funeral service over him. He was the first of our party we had lost, and +his death, the sad precursor of so many more, cast an additional gloom +over us. + +November 18. + +The natives came and brought some of their gins (women) with them. They +would only allow one of us at a time to go near them. The women wore very +neatly fringed girdles hanging loose about their loins, and shaded +themselves with large fan-palm leaves. The girdles were made of the +leaves of the Cordyline. Both men and women were very stout, strong, +well-made people--some of the men standing six feet high. They brought us +some fish, which they called mingii, but it was such as they would not +even eat themselves; also a kind of paste, made of different kinds of +leaves and roots, mixed with the inside of the roasted mangrove seeds, +all pounded up together, then heated over a fire in a large shell. This +paste they call dakiaa.* Although we did not much like the taste of the +paste, and it was very full of sand, we ate some of it as a vegetable. + +(*Footnote. This is identical with the biyu of Cape York. See Volume 2.) + +November 19. + +This morning about fifty or sixty natives, all strongly armed with +spears, made their appearance, and by their gestures and manner it was +quite evident they intended to attack us if opportunity offered. As we +always kept our firearms in readiness, we stood out in a line, with our +guns in our hands. I made signs to them to keep back, but they pretended +not to understand us, holding up pieces of fish, crying out mingii, +mingii (fish, fish) to induce us to come for them, but their designs upon +us were too transparent for that. They kept us standing a good while, for +I was anxious to refrain from firing on them if possible, and at length +they left us without any actually hostile demonstration. Being Sunday, I +read prayers to-day. + +November 20. + +Taylor died this morning, and we buried him in the evening, by the side +of Douglas, and I read the funeral service over him. + +November 21. + +About sixty natives came to the camp this morning, well armed with +spears, and pieces of fish, which they held up to us, to entice us to +come to them. We took no notice, however, of their invitations, but +preparing our firearms, we turned out. They were now closing round us in +all directions, many of them with their spears in their throwing-sticks, +ready for use--pointing them to their own necks and sides, and showing us +by their postures how we should writhe with pain when they struck us. +Then they would change their tactics and again endeavour to persuade us +that they meant us no harm, but they would not lay down their spears. +Some of them seemed inclined to go away, but others appeared determined +to attack us. After keeping us standing about an hour, eleven spears were +thrown at us. Three of my party then fired, slightly wounding one of +them, when they all immediately ran away as fast as they could. Some of +them, however, remained hovering in sight for some time after. Three of +the spears that were thrown fell short of us, the rest passing very +close, but fortunately no one was hurt; the three spears which passed us +were barbed with bone, and were very heavy. + +November 26. + +Carpenter died this morning; the poor fellow did not suffer acutely on +the approach of death, but the animal energies were destroyed, and they +withered away one after another, without pain or struggle. At eleven +o'clock, being Sunday, I read prayers, and in the evening we buried our +late companion in the bed of the creek, and I read the funeral service +over him. The natives came again this morning, leaving their spears at a +distance, and brought us a few small fish; but remembering their former +treachery, we took very little notice of them and showed them they could +only expect kind treatment from us, so long as they themselves continued +peaceable. During the last few days we shot a few pigeons and parrots, +also a small blue heron. + +November 27. + +We killed another horse this morning, and had the meat all cut up and on +the stage by nine o'clock, with all the appearance of a fine day to dry +it. But about eleven o'clock a heavy thunderstorm came on, and it rained +all day. I kept a fire burning near the stage all night. + +November 28. + +We were very uneasy at the continued wet weather, as it threatened to +destroy the scanty remains of our provision, the flesh already beginning +to smell very badly. + +November 29. + +It was raining heavily all day, and our meat became almost putrid. + +November 30. + +This day a fresh breeze blew, and there was no rain; I cut up all the +meat that would hold together into thin slices, but a great deal of it +was quite rotten. The blood-puddings, tripe, feet, and bones, lasted us +till this day. I saved the hide of this horse for ourselves, the other I +had fed our dogs on; Mr. Kennedy having requested me to keep them alive +if possible, so that we had to spare a little from our scanty meals for +them. + +December 1. + +The wind was blowing strong from the south-east this morning. On going up +the hill in the afternoon I saw a schooner from the northward beating to +the southward. I supposed her to be the Bramble, as it was about the time +Mr. Kennedy had given me expectation of being relieved by water, and I +afterwards found I was right in this supposition. + +I naturally concluded she had come for us; and full of hope and joy I +immediately hoisted a flag on a staff we had previously erected, on a +part of the hill where it could be seen from any part of the bay. We +placed a ball above the flag to put the crew on their guard against the +natives. We then collected a quantity of wood, and at dusk lighted a +fire, and kept it burning till about half-past seven or eight o'clock. I +then fired off three rockets one after the other, at intervals of about +twenty minutes. I also took a large pistol up the hill, and stood for +some time firing it as quickly as I could load it, thinking they might +perhaps see the flash of that, if they had not seen the rockets. + +December 2. + +Early this morning I was up, straining my eyes to catch a view of the +bay, and at length saw the schooner standing in to the shore; and during +the forenoon a boat was lowered. I now made quite certain they were +coming for us, and thinking they might come up the creek in the boat for +some distance, I hastened down the hill, and began to pack up a few +things, determined to keep them waiting for our luggage no longer than I +could help. I looked anxiously for them all the afternoon, wondering much +at their delay in coming, until at last I went up the hill, just in time +to see the schooner passing the bay. I cannot describe the feeling of +despair and desolation which I in common with the rest of our party +experienced as we gazed on the vessel as she fast faded from our view. On +the very brink of starvation and death--death in the lone wilderness, +peopled only with the savage denizens of the forest, who even then were +thirsting for our blood--hope, sure and certain hope, had for one brief +moment gladdened our hearts with the consoling assurance, that after our +many trials, and protracted sufferings, we were again about to find +comfort and safety. But the bright expectancy faded; and although we +strove to persuade ourselves that the vessel was not the Bramble, our +hearts sank within us in deep despondency. + +December 4. + +We yesterday finished our scanty remnant of flour; and our little store +of meat, which we had been able to dry, could have but very little +nourishment in it. Goddard and I went to the beach and got a bag of +shellfish, but found it very difficult to get back to the camp through +the mangroves, we were in so weak a state. + +December 7. + +This day I took Mitchell with me to the beach, and procured another bag +of shellfish. During the last few days we shot a very small wallaby and +three or four Torres Strait pigeons. These afforded us some relief, as +our horse-flesh was so very bitter, that nothing but unendurable hunger +could have induced us to eat it. A number of small brown beetles were +generated from it, which ate it, and we were also much annoyed by flies. +We all suffered more or less from bad eyes. + +December 9. + +The natives visited us this morning, and brought with them a few pieces +of turtles' entrails and a few nondas. I gave them an old shirt and a +knife, the latter of which was highly prized by them. They call turtle +mallii, and the sun youmboll. Goddard had a fit of ague to-day, followed +by fever. + +December 10. + +We all of us had fits of ague this morning, and none of us could get up +till the afternoon, when, being Sunday, I read prayers. + +December 11. + +The natives came this morning, and brought us a little vegetable paste, +and some pieces of turtles' entrails, with some sharks' liver. The latter +was fresh, but one could not eat it, as it all melted into a yellowish +oil, when boiled for a few minutes. I gave them a few fish-hooks, but +found it very difficult to get them to leave the camp. + +December 13. + +This morning Mitchell was found dead by the side of the creek, with his +feet in the water. He must have gone down at night to get water, but too +much exhausted to perform his task, had sat down and died there. None of +us being strong enough to dig a grave for him, we sewed the body in a +blanket, with a few stones to sink it, and then put it into the brackish +water. + +December 15. + +The thermometer fell this morning and was broken. It was raining heavily +all day, and two bags of my seeds, and several other little things, were +washed out of the tent by the water which ran down the hill. We were all +very ill and weak. + +December 16. + +It was raining this morning, and we remained in the tent. Hearing one of +our dogs barking, however, I went out and saw several natives with pieces +of fish and turtle, which I took from them, when they left us. The +natives also brought us some roasted nymphaea roots, which they call +dillii. During the last few days we shot seven pigeons. Wall and Goddard +used to go into the scrub and sit beneath a tree, to which they used to +come for berries to feed their young, and watching their opportunity, +shoot them. + +December 21. + +Our kangaroo dog being very weak, and unable to catch anything, we +killed, and lived on him for two days. There was very little flesh on his +bones, but our dried meat was so bad, that we very much enjoyed the +remains of our old companion, and drank the water in which we boiled him. + +December 24. + +The natives took a tin case from Wall whilst he was talking to them, he +not being able to resist them. My legs had swelled very much, and I was +able to walk but a very short distance. + +December 26. + +The natives brought us a few pieces of fish and turtle, but both were +almost rotten; they also gave us a blue-tongued lizard, which I opened +and took out eleven young ones, which we roasted and ate. There was +nothing but scales on the old one, except in its tail. + +We always equally divided whatever we got from the natives, be it what it +might; but they brought us very little that was eatable. I could easily +perceive that their pretended good feeling towards us was assumed for the +sake of fulfilling their own designs upon us. Although they tried to make +us believe they were doing all in their power to benefit us, their object +was to obtain an opportunity of coming upon us by surprise and destroying +us. They had at many times seen the fatal effects of our firearms, and I +believe that it was only the dread of these, that prevented them from +falling upon us at once, and murdering us. They were a much finer race of +men than the natives we had seen at Rockingham Bay, most of the men being +from five feet ten to six feet high. The general characteristics of the +race were different from those of the other aborigines I had ever seen, +and I imagined that they might be an admixture of the Australian tribes +and the Malays, or Murray Islanders. Some of them had large bushy +whiskers, with no hair on their chins or upper lips, having the +appearance of being regularly shaved. It would be almost impossible for +any class of men to excel these fellows in the scheming and versatile +cunning with which they strove to disguise their meditated treachery. In +fine weather I always had our firearms standing out for them to see, and +once or twice every night I fired off a pistol, to let them know we were +on the lookout by night as well as by day. + +December 28. + +Niblett and Wall both died this morning; Niblett was quite dead when I +got up, and Wall, though alive, was unable to speak; they were neither of +them up the day previous. I had been talking with them both, endeavouring +to encourage them to hope on to the last, but sickness, privation, and +fatigue had overcome them, and they abandoned themselves to a calm and +listless despair. We had got two pigeons the day before, which in the +evening were boiled and divided between us, as well as the water they +were boiled in. Niblett had eaten his pigeon, and drank the water, but +Wall had only drank the water and eaten part of his half pigeon. About +eleven o'clock, as many as fifty natives, armed with spears, and some of +them painted with a yellowish earth, made their appearance in the +vicinity of our camp. There were natives of several strange tribes +amongst them. They were well aware that neither Niblett nor Wall was able +to resist them, if they did not know they were dead. They also knew that +we were very weak, although I always endeavoured as much as possible to +keep that fact from them. This morning when I made signs to them to lay +down their spears they paid no attention, with the exception of two, who +had been in the habit of coming very frequently to the camp. These two +came running up quite close to us, without their spears, and endeavoured +to persuade one of us to go across a small dry creek, for a fish which +another of the rascals was holding up to tempt us. They tried various +methods to draw our attention from the rest, who were trailing their +spears along the ground, with their feet, closing gradually round us, and +running from tree to tree, to hide their spears behind them. Others lay +on their backs on the long grass, and were working their way towards us, +unnoticed, as they supposed. Goddard and myself stood with our guns in +readiness and our pistols by our sides for about two hours, when I fell +from excessive weakness. When I got up we thought it best to send them +away at once, or stand our chance of being speared in the attempt, both +of us being unable to stand any longer. We presented our guns at the two +by our side, making signs to them to send the others away, or we would +shoot them immediately. This they did, and they ran off in all directions +without a spear being thrown or a shot fired. We had many times tried to +catch fish in the creek during our stay at Weymouth Bay, with our fishing +lines, but never could get as much as a bite at the bait. + +As the evening came on, there came with it the painful task of removing +the bodies of our unfortunate companions who had died in the morning. We +had not strength to make the smallest hole in the ground as a grave; but +after great exertion we succeeded in removing the bodies to a small patch +of phyllanthus scrub, about four feet high, and eighty yards from the +tent. We then laid them side by side, and covered them with a few small +branches, and this was all the burial we were enabled to give them. + +December 29. + +Goddard went into the scrub, and shot three pigeons. We ate one of them +at night, and the others we reserved till next day. Our bowels were +greatly relaxed, which was partly stayed by eating a few nondas, which we +got occasionally. + +The six weeks having expired, which Mr. Kennedy had led me to expect +would be the longest period we should have to wait, I now began to fear +the rainy season had set in, and filled the creeks to the northward, so +that his party had been unable to cross them, or that some untoward +accident had happened, which prevented us being relieved. + +I did not quite despair, but I knew that we could not live long. Our shot +was almost consumed, not having more than eight or ten charges left, and +although we had plenty of ball, we were too weak to attempt to form any +plan to make shot. Our sole remaining companion, the sheepdog, I intended +to kill in a day or two, but he would not last long, as he was nothing +but skin and bone. + +December 30. + +Early this morning we ate the two pigeons left yesterday, and boiled each +a quart of tea, from the leaves we had left; but we had not had any fresh +tea to put into the pot for some time. Goddard then went into the bush, +to try to get another pigeon or two, and if the natives made their +appearance, I was to fire a pistol to recall him to the camp. After he +had been gone, I saw natives coming toward the camp, and I immediately +fired a pistol; but before Goddard could return they came into the camp, +and handed me a piece of paper, very much dirtied and torn. I was sure, +from the first, by their manner, that there was a vessel in the Bay. The +paper was a note to me from Captain Dobson, of the schooner Ariel, but it +was so dirtied and torn that I could only read part of it. + +For a minute or two I was almost senseless with the joy which the hope of +our deliverance inspired. I made the natives a few presents, and gave +them a note to Captain Dobson, which I made them easily understand I +wanted them to take to that gentleman. I was in hopes they would then +have gone, but I soon found they had other intentions. A great many +natives were coming from all quarters well armed with spears. I had given +a shirt to the one who had brought the note, and put it on him; but I saw +him throw down the note and pull off the shirt, and picking up his spear +he joined the rest, who were preparing to attack us. We were expecting +every moment to be attacked and murdered by these savages, our newly +awakened hope already beginning to fail, when we saw Captain Dobson and +Dr. Vallack, accompanied by Jackey and a man named Barrett (who had been +wounded a few days before in the arm by a barbed spear) approaching +towards us, across the creek. I and my companion, who was preserved with +me, must ever be grateful for the prompt courage with which these +persons, at the risk of their own lives, came to our assistance, through +the scrub and mangroves, a distance of about three miles, surrounded as +they were all the way by a large number of armed natives. + +I was reduced almost to a skeleton. The elbow bone of my right arm was +through the skin, as also the bone of my right hip. My legs also were +swollen to an enormous size. Goddard walked to the boat, but I could not +do so without the assistance of Captain Dobson and Dr. Vallack, and I had +to be carried altogether a part of the distance. The others, Jackey and +Barrett, kept a lookout for the blacks. We were unable to bring many +things from the camp. The principal were, the firearms and one parcel of +my seeds, which I had managed to keep dry, containing eighty-seven +species. All my specimens were left behind, which I regretted very much: +for though much injured, the collection contained specimens of very +beautiful trees, shrubs, and orchideae. I could also only secure an +abstract of my journal, except that portion of it from 13th November to +30th December, which I have in full. My original journal, with a +botanical work which had been kindly lent me by a friend in Sydney for +the expedition, was left behind. We got safely on board the Ariel; and +after a very long passage, arrived in Sydney. + +I am confident that no man could have done more for the safety of the +party than was done by Mr. Kennedy, nor could any man have exerted +himself more than he, in the most distressing circumstances of our +perilous journey. He walked by far the greater part of the distance, +giving his own horses for the use of the weak men, and the general +service of the expedition. I never rode but two hours all through the +journey, and that was on two successive days when we were in the vicinity +of Cape Sidmouth, and I was suffering from bad feet. + +The unfortunate death of our brave and generous leader, deeply and +extensively as I know it to have been lamented, can have no more sincere +mourner than myself. + +The tale of his sufferings and those of his party has already been read +and sympathised over by hundreds, and it would ill become me to add +anything to the artless narrative of the faithful and true-hearted +Jackey, who having tended his last moments, and closed his eyes, was the +first, perhaps the most disinterested, bewailer of his unhappy fate. + +... + + +STATEMENT OF JACKEY-JACKEY. + +MADE BY HIM ON BOARD THE ARIEL, AND WRITTEN DOWN BY DR. VALLACK. + +I started with Mr. Kennedy from Weymouth Bay for Cape York, on the 13th +November, 1848, accompanied by Costigan, Dunn, and Luff, leaving eight +men at the camp, at Weymouth Bay. We went on till we came to a river +which empties itself into Weymouth Bay. A little further north we crossed +the river; next morning a lot of natives camped on the other side of the +river. Mr. Kennedy and the rest of us went on a very high hill and came +to a flat on the other side and camped there; I went on a good way next +day; a horse fell down a creek; the flour we took with us lasted three +days; we had much trouble in getting the horse out of the creek; we went +on, and came out, and camped on the ridges; we had no water. Next morning +went on and Luff was taken ill with a very bad knee; we left him behind, +and Dunn went back again and brought him on; Luff was riding a horse +named Fiddler; then we went on and camped at a little creek; the flour +being out this day we commenced eating horse-flesh, which Carron gave us +when we left Weymouth Bay; as we went on we came on a small river, and +saw no blacks there; as we proceeded we gathered nondas, and lived upon +them and the meat; we stopped at a little creek and it came on raining, +and Costigan shot himself; in putting his saddle under the tarpaulin, a +string caught the trigger and the ball went in under the right arm and +came out at his back under the shoulder; we went on this morning all of +us, and stopped at another creek in the evening, and the next morning we +killed a horse named Browney, smoked him that night and went on next day, +taking as much of the horse as we could with us, and went on about a mile +and then turned back again to where we killed the horse, because Costigan +was very bad and in much pain; we went back again because there was no +water; then Mr. Kennedy and I had dinner there, and went on in the +afternoon leaving Dunn, Costigan, and Luff at the creek. This was at +Pudding-pan Hill, near Shelburne Bay. Mr. Kennedy called it Pudding-pan +Hill. We left some horse-meat with the three men at Pudding-pan Hill, and +carried some with us on a packhorse. Mr. Kennedy wanted to make great +haste when he left this place, to get the doctor to go down to the men +that were ill. This was about three weeks after leaving Weymouth Bay. One +horse was left with the three men at Pudding-pan Hill, and we (Kennedy +and myself) took with us three horses. The three men were to remain there +until Mr. Kennedy and myself had gone to and returned from Cape York for +them. Mr. Kennedy told Luff and Dunn when he left them that if Costigan +died to come along the beach till they saw the ship, and then to fire a +gun; he told them he would not be long away, so it was not likely they +would move from there for some time. They stopped to take care of the man +that was shot, we (me and Mr. Kennedy) killed a horse for them before we +came away; having left these three men, we camped that night where there +was no water; next morning Mr. Kennedy and me went on with the four +horses, two packhorses and two saddle-horses; one horse got bogged in a +swamp. We tried to get him out all day, but could not, we left him there, +and camped at another creek. The next day Mr. Kennedy and I went on +again, and passed up a ridge very scrubby, and had to turn back again, +and went along gulleys to get clear of the creek and scrub. Now it +rained, and we camped; there were plenty of blacks here, but we did not +see them, but plenty of fresh tracks, and camps, and smoke. Next morning +we went on and camped at another creek, and on the following morning we +continued going on, and camped in the evening close to a scrub; it rained +in the night. Next day we went on in the scrub, but could not get +through, I cut and cleared away, and it was near sundown before we got +through the scrub--there we camped. It was heavy rain next morning, and +we went on in the rain, then I changed horses and rode a black colt, to +spell the other, and rode him all day, and in the afternoon we got on +clear ground, and the horse fell down, me and all; the horse lay upon my +right hip. Here Mr. Kennedy got off his horse and moved my horse from my +thigh; we stopped there that night, and could not get the horse up; we +looked to him in the morning and he was dead; we left him there; we had +some horse-meat left to eat, and went on that day and crossed a little +river and camped. The next day we went a good way; Mr. Kennedy told me to +go up a tree to see a sandy hill somewhere; I went up a tree, and saw a +sandy hill a little way down from Port Albany. That day we camped near a +swamp; it was a very rainy day. The next morning we went on, and Mr. +Kennedy told me we should get round to Port Albany in a day; we travelled +on all day till twelve o'clock (noon) and then we saw Port Albany; then +he said "There is Port Albany, Jackey--a ship is there--you see that +island there," pointing to Albany Island; this was when we were at the +mouth of Escape River; we stopped there a little while; all the meat was +gone; I tried to get some fish but could not; we went on in the afternoon +half a mile along the riverside, and met a good lot of blacks, and we +camped; the blacks all cried out "powad, powad," and rubbed their +bellies; and we thought they were friendly, and Mr. Kennedy gave them +fish-hooks all round; every one asked me if I had anything to give away, +and I said no; and Mr. Kennedy said, give them your knife, Jackey; this +fellow on board was the man I gave the knife to; I am sure of it; I know +him well; the black that was shot in the canoe was the most active in +urging all the others on to spear Mr. Kennedy; I gave the man on board my +knife; we went on this day, and I looked behind, and they were getting up +their spears, and ran all round the camp which we had left; I told Mr. +Kennedy that very likely those blackfellows would follow us, and he said, +"No, Jackey, those blacks are very friendly;" I said to him "I know those +blackfellows well, they too much speak;" we went on some two or three +miles and camped; I and Mr. Kennedy watched them that night, taking it in +turns every hour all night; by-and-by I saw the blackfellows; it was a +moonlight night; and I walked up to Mr. Kennedy, and said to him there is +plenty of blackfellows now; this was in the middle of the night; Mr. +Kennedy told me to get my gun ready; the blacks did not know where we +slept, as we did not make a fire; we both sat up all night; after this, +daylight came, and I fetched the horses and saddled them; then we went on +a good way up the river, and then we sat down a little while, and we saw +three blackfellows coming along our track, and they saw us, and one +fellow ran back as hard as he could run, and fetched up plenty more, like +a flock of sheep almost; I told Mr. Kennedy to put the saddles on the two +horses and go on, and the blacks came up, and they followed us all the +day; all along it was raining, and I now told him to leave the horses and +come on without them, that the horses made too much track. Mr. Kennedy +was too weak, and would not leave the horses. We went on this day till +towards evening, raining hard, and the blacks followed us all the day, +some behind, some planted before; in fact, blacks all around following +us. Now we went on into a little bit of a scrub, and I told Mr. Kennedy +to look behind always; sometimes he would do so, and sometimes he would +not look behind to look out for the blacks. Then a good many blackfellows +came behind in the scrub, and threw plenty of spears, and hit Mr. Kennedy +in the back first. Mr. Kennedy said to me, "Oh! Jackey, Jackey! shoot +'em, shoot 'em." Then I pulled out my gun and fired, and hit one fellow +all over the face with buckshot; he tumbled down, and got up again and +again and wheeled right round, and two blackfellows picked him up and +carried him away. They went away then a little way, and came back again, +throwing spears all around, more than they did before; very large spears. +I pulled out the spear at once from Mr. Kennedy's back, and cut out the +jag with Mr. Kennedy's knife; then Mr. Kennedy got his gun and snapped, +but the gun would not go off. The blacks sneaked all along by the trees, +and speared Mr. Kennedy again in the right leg, above the knee a little, +and I got speared over the eye, and the blacks were now throwing their +spears all ways, never giving over, and shortly again speared Mr. Kennedy +in the right side; there were large jags to the spears, and I cut them +out and put them into my pocket. At the same time we got speared, the +horses got speared too, and jumped and bucked all about, and got into the +swamp. I now told Mr. Kennedy to sit down, while I looked after the +saddlebags, which I did; and when I came back again, I saw blacks along +with Mr. Kennedy; I then asked him if he saw the blacks with him, he was +stupid with the spear wounds, and said "No;" then I asked him where was +his watch? I saw the blacks taking away watch and hat as I was returning +to Mr. Kennedy; then I carried Mr. Kennedy into the scrub, he said, +"Don't carry me a good way;" then Mr. Kennedy looked this way, very bad +(Jackey rolling his eyes). I said to him, "Don't look far away," as I +thought he would be frightened; I asked him often, "Are you well now?" +and he said, "I don't care for the spear wound in my leg, Jackey, but for +the other two spear wounds in my side and back," and said, "I am bad +inside, Jackey." I told him blackfellow always die when he got spear in +there (the back); he said, "I am out of wind, Jackey;" I asked him, "Mr. +Kennedy; are you going to leave me?" and he said, "Yes, my boy, I am +going to leave you;" he said, "I am very bad, Jackey; you take the books, +Jackey, to the captain, but not the big ones, the Governor will give +anything for them;" I then tied up the papers; he then said, "Jackey, +give me paper and I will write;" I gave him paper and pencil, and he +tried to write, and he then fell back and died, and I caught him as he +fell back and held him, and I then turned round myself and cried: I was +crying a good while until I got well; that was about an hour, and then I +buried him; I digged up the ground with a tomahawk, and covered him over +with logs, then grass, and my shirt and trousers; that night I left him +near dark; I would go through the scrub, and the blacks threw spears at +me, a good many, and I went back again into the scrub; then I went down +the creek which runs into Escape River, and I walked along the water in +the creek very easy, with my head only above water, to avoid the blacks, +and get out of their way; in this way I went half a mile; then I got out +of the creek, and got clear of them, and walked on all night nearly, and +slept in the bush without a fire; I went on next morning, and felt very +bad, and I spelled for two days; I lived upon nothing but salt water; +next day I went on and camped one mile away from where I left, and ate +one of the pandanus fruits; next morning I went on two miles, and sat +down there, and I wanted to spell a little there, and go on; but when I +tried to get up, I could not, but fell down again very tired and cramped, +and I spelled here two days; then I went on again one mile, and got +nothing to eat but one nonda; and I went on that day and camped, and on +again next morning, about half a mile, and sat down where there was good +water, and remained all day. On the following morning, I went a good way, +went round a great swamp and mangroves, and got a good way by sundown; +the next morning I went and saw a very large track of blackfellows; I +went clear of the track and of swamp or sandy ground; then I came to a +very large river, and a large lagoon; plenty of alligators in the lagoon, +about ten miles from Port Albany. I now got into the ridges by sundown, +and went up a tree and saw Albany Island; then next morning at four +o'clock, I went on as hard as I could go all the way down, over fine +clear ground, fine ironbark timber, and plenty of good grass; I went on +round the point (this was towards Cape York, north of Albany Island) and +went on and followed a creek down, and went on top of the hill and saw +Cape York; I knew it was Cape York, because the sand did not go on +further; I sat down then a good while; I said to myself, this is Port +Albany, I believe inside somewhere; Mr. Kennedy also told me that the +ship was inside, close up to the mainland; I went on a little way, and +saw the ship and boat; I met close up here two black gins and a good many +piccanninies; one said to me "powad, powad;" then I asked her for eggs, +she gave me turtles' eggs, and I gave her a burning-glass; she pointed to +the ship which I had seen before; I was very frightened of seeing the +black men all along here; and when I was on the rock cooeying, and murry +murry glad when the boat came for me. + +... + + +DR. VALLACK'S STATEMENT. + +A full account of proceedings taken by the Ariel, from the time of +Jackey's arrival at Cape York, on the 23rd December, 1848, up to the time +of her departure from Weymouth Bay, on the 31st December, 1848. + +Saturday, 23rd December, 1848. + +About eight o'clock A.M., Captain Dobson called down to me, saying that +he thought Mr. Kennedy was arrived, as there was a black on shore with a +shirt on and trousers. On going upon deck, the Captain had left in the +dinghy for the mainland, where the black was standing, I observed with +the glass and the naked eye, the black first standing, then walking very +lame, then sitting down on a rock on the mainland. The dinghy made there, +and took him on board. It turned out to be Jackey, of Mr. Kennedy's +party, who looked very haggard and told a woeful tale. After being on +board I wished to take down depositions, fearing anything might happen to +him from over-excitement. Depositions were taken, before which he became +faint, and a glass of wine revived him, which he told us afterwards, made +him budgeree (that is, well again.) I consulted with the Captain as to +what should be done, and it was immediately determined upon to leave Port +Albany with all possible speed, to save the surviving parties at +Pudding-pan Hill and Weymouth Bay, three men at the former place, and the +rest at the latter. It being necessary to take the sheep with us, they +were all but three shipped in the evening, and prompt orders given for +the vessel to be got ready for a start in the morning the first thing. In +the meantime I went on shore with the Captain to get the bullock in to +kill, Barrett, as well, on horseback, and we found it was impossible to +get him in--he was so wild: he was therefore shot at the far and south +end of the island, with the intention of bringing as much as possible of +the carcass away. It getting late in the evening, however, none was taken +away, nor is there time now to do so, and to do also an act of duty and +humanity to the yet living human beings. + +Sunday, 24th December. + +Before ten A.M., a dead calm; at turn of tide or rather before, weighed +anchor, but the tide took us towards Cape York a mile; the tide now +turned, and a gentle breeze took us through the strait. The breeze +continued, and at sundown we anchored five miles south of Point Shadwell, +Mount Adolphus bearing North-North-West, seven leagues; employed during +the day conversing with Jackey, taking down in pencil what he had to say, +changing the subject now and then by speaking of his comrades at Jerry's +Plains. I did so as he told me what kept him awake all last night was +thinking about Mr. Kennedy. Saw three native fires on our voyage here, +one on this south end of Albany Island, one between it and here, and one +on shore abreast of us. + +December 25th, Monday. + +At daylight in the morning a dead calm, and the hottest day we have had, +the sun was so glaring that the altitude could not be taken. At about a +quarter before ten A.M. a light breeze came on and we left our anchorage, +the breeze increased a little, before eleven; saw what appeared to be an +island at first; on nearing, found it to be a canoe, about fifteen feet +long, with seven or eight natives in it, shearing about, sometimes in one +direction, sometimes in another. After a little we heard them calling +out, "paoud," "whappee," "chauca," some of them standing up. I named to +the Captain that I thought they must be from Cape York, from their words, +and that it would be at least desirable to glean information from them, +if possible, concerning Mr. Kennedy. The Captain said, "We will not call +out paoud," (which means peace) but occasionally the words chauca +(tobacco) biskey (biscuit) were called out from the ship. They from this +drew close to the vessel, very wary, however, in doing so. Jackey was +placed in the fore-top, and word came that Jackey knew all these fellows, +that they were the party who speared Mr. Kennedy. One black was allowed +to come on board, and whilst he was partly in the ship, word came to me +by Parker (a seaman) that Jackey wanted to speak to me. On going to +Jackey, he said, "That fellow," pointing to the one named, "is the fellow +that speared Mr. Kennedy; I gave him a knife, keep him, bale (don't) let +him go. All those fellows threw spears at Mr. Kennedy." This native was +immediately secured. He struggled hard, and it was as much as three men +could do to secure him. The other blacks in the canoe now jumped +overboard, and observing now that the native secured had a part of a +bridle round his arm, and a piece of sinew, or tendon of a horse, and +Jackey being so positive as to identity, it was determined to examine the +canoe, and an order was given to fire over their heads, whilst they (the +blacks) were endeavouring to recover their canoe. The ship's long-boat +was sent after the canoe, but in the meantime the blacks had recovered +it, and a hard chase took place, the blacks paddling away towards the +shore. The boat overhauled them, when a shot was fired from the boat, and +as the boat closed upon them I saw the blacks jump overboard again, and +afterwards the ship's boat bring back the canoe. During this time several +shots were fired over them, and near them, from the ship. The boat +returned in about twenty minutes from the time of leaving, with the +canoe. Barrett said to me when alongside that he was speared, and that he +had shot the black who had speared him, and who was now in the canoe +nearly dead. It appears that one black had stuck to his canoe, and on the +ship's boat nearing it, had thrown a spear into Barret's arm, and was on +the eve of throwing another at him, when Barrett shot him. I went into +the canoe, and examined the black, and found the ball had gone through +his body, entering on the one side and coming out on the other side. The +ball must have gone through the stomach, from its direction. He was now +dying--nearly dead. The canoe was chopped up, and, with the black, +disappeared a short time afterwards. I dressed Barrett's wounds, three of +them, of a triangular shape, in the lower and fleshy part of the forearm. +From the canoe were brought the leg part of a pair of trousers, three +spears, a piece of iron of a saddle, hooks and lines, etc.; and a piece +of moleskin was taken off the native's leg, which Jackey says was part of +his trousers, which he tied round Mr. Kennedy's head when he buried him, +Jackey being sure that they had dug up Mr. Kennedy. I observed at the +time that the native was nearly on board, the moment the blacks saw +Jackey, they looked at each other as if everything was not right. +Previously to their jumping overboard, when Jackey showed the native the +spear wound over his eye, he would quickly turn away and not look him in +the face. Whilst the native was being secured, after being removed to the +fore part of the vessel, a mutton bone with meat was offered him which he +grappled at and ate voraciously, saying, "paoud, paoud." The wind +increased and was fair, and Jackey pointed out a hill ahead of us which +he said was like Pudding-pan Hill, near which the three men were left. +This Hill was Pudding-pan Hill, according to the chart. As we neared +Pudding-pan Hill, Jackey said, that is not the place, that he had been +mistaken, and, on continually looking at it, he became the more confirmed +and positive, and said it was no use whatever to land there, but that we +must go further on; we passed the hill; in the meantime, the Captain and +I consulted as to what should be done, knowing this was the only +Pudding-pan Hill on the chart; but Jackey, who had been placed on the +fore-top, became more and more positive, saying at length, "Do you think +I am stupid?--Mr. Kennedy sent me from the camp to look out the coast, so +that I might know it again when I came back in the ship, and I will tell +you when we come to it, the ship must go on that way further," pointing +to the south. Proceeding on, towards evening, off Hannibal Bay, we saw +numerous native fires, and in one spot I observed about forty natives. +Before sundown a canoe was making off to us, but after sunset we +gradually lost sight of it, and some time after this we anchored. + +Tuesday, 26th December, 1848. + +At twenty minutes to six A.M., got underweigh with a light breeze; in the +centre of Hannibal Bay, Risk Point ahead. In about ten minutes we struck +on a coral reef, and soon got off again; we anchored this day in +Shelburne Bay, opposite where Jackey wished us to proceed to recover the +three men; he was sure this was the place, seeing the mountain which Mr. +Kennedy called Pudding-pan Hill, and other mountains there, which were +wanting at the Pudding-pan Hill of the chart; he was perfectly confident +as to this being the right place and it may be here stated that this hill +is the very facsimile of the Pudding-pan Hill of the chart. In sailing in +the bay we found the water getting very shallow, from three to four, and +lastly, when we anchored, two and a half fathoms, and this unfortunately, +was a long way off from the land, say three or four miles; after +consultation with the Captain and Jackey, our main guide, we determined +on going on shore at the place pointed out by Jackey before daylight on +the following morning; during this afternoon several fires, about five, +were in sight along the coast in the bay, and not many natives seen; I +saw five; after a time it had been determined who should be the party to +go to recover the three men. The Captain, Jackey, Barrett, Thomas (the +sailor), and myself, formed the party. The evening was employed in +getting our guns in good order for the morrow. The Captain thought he +observed on shore natives with wearing apparel on. + +Wednesday, 27th December, 1848. + +At three o'clock A.M., the Captain called me, and such had been the +preparation last night that in a quarter of an hour we were in the +longboat, steering for the shore, and just as daylight was peeping we +were near the shore in shallow water, and a fire sprung up nearly in +front of us a little way in from the beach. The boat struck on the +ground, and we waded through the water for about a hundred yards or more +knee deep. Jackey took the lead, the Captain and I following, Barrett and +Tom behind, and mounted the low scrubby cliff about two hundred yards +from where we saw the fire. On we trudged through dense scrub inland for +about an hour, When Jackey said we must go further up that way, pointing +more in the south part of the bay; that is where I want to go, said he, +and that we had better cross there in the boat and recommence the trip. +On reaching the coast we hailed the boat, which was anchored off a +little, and waded out to it. Having seen a great smoke last evening and +apparently one this morning, some distance beyond where Jackey wished us +to land, he was asked if we should go first to this native fire and camp, +and see if they have anything there belonging to the three men, and +Jackey said, yes. We proceeded there, a distance of about four miles to +the southernmost part of the bay, and landed, but could discover only the +remains of a bushfire and no camp; we now left this part and proceeded to +exactly where Jackey pointed out on the beach, more in the central part +of the bay, some three miles across, and landed, telling the men in the +boat to anchor a little higher up to the north, where Jackey said we +should come out at by-and-bye. We left word with the men in the boat that +we might be away for three hours or more, and that we should fire a gun +on our return, which was to be answered by them. + +Jackey was now head and leading man in every sense of the word, and away +we went in a westerly direction, for about, say, five or six miles; +Jackey telling us to look out behind and all about for the blacks. After +proceeding some four miles of the distance, we came to a creek where we +stopped for a few minutes; Jackey was evidently tired, not recovered, and +could not walk fast, and although we went off at first at a good pace, +Jackey was getting lame, and had been obliged to sit down three times on +the journey. About two miles beyond this creek Jackey got up into a tree, +and returned saying he could see the mountain near which the camp was, +but that it was a long way off, that we could not get there to-night, but +that we must camp in the bush, and get there to-morrow. It here became +necessary to pause. The ship was left with two hands only in her, +anchored in shallow water, and the Captain said promptly that he could +not proceed farther without great risk of losing the ship, either from +its coming on to blow, or that natives may attack her in their canoes; +(here I may say what has been omitted, namely, that in the early part of +the morning we saw and examined a canoe close to where we first landed, +and found part of a cloak in it, which Jackey immediately pronounced as +belonging to the white men at the camp) and it was determined, well +considering all circumstances, to return to the ship, which we did, +coming out on the beach under mangroves, at the very spot we told Jackey +to come out at on our leaving. We arrived at the ship at twelve minutes +before four P.M. During our absence the men in the boat had seen on the +beach from fifty to one hundred natives. We saw none. The day has been +very hot, and we are in a fix, surrounded by reefs, and some little +anxiety is existing as to how we shall get out again. We have determined +to proceed to Weymouth Bay, and in so doing I have taken everything into +consideration. We have eight men to attend to at Weymouth Bay. In all +probability the three men here are dead, for when Jackey left them, +Costigan was nearly dead, and Luff was very ill. The cloak taken from the +canoe shows that the blacks have found their camp, and had we gone on +there, which would have taken a day or two at least more, we should only +have found, I verily believe, as Jackey says, "bones belonging to +whitefellows." After getting on board, Jackey went to sleep, thoroughly +done up. He fell asleep also in coming off in the boat. + +Thursday, December 28. + +This has been a day of anxiety. We left a little after daylight, not +without feelings of disappointment and dissatisfaction at not having been +successful in rescuing the men, who it was possible might be yet alive. +We were surrounded by reefs, a light breeze, and fair depth of +water--called out by the leadsman, 2, 2 1/2, 2, 3 fathoms, until after +some time we got into deeper water, and passed out of the Bay in safety. +Not a fire had been seen on the shore all night, nor was there a native +to be seen this morning from the vessel. We passed numerous islands, +until the Piper Islands came in sight. We calculated upon making them for +our anchorage, but a squall came on, and the wind shifted, and we were +compelled to anchor at half-past seven P.M., in fifteen fathoms water, +near a reef. Some native fires were seen on the coast to-day. I find the +native on board understands and speaks the same language as the Port +Albany blacks, and repeats all their names to me. He eats and drinks +heartily, and lends apparently a most willing hand towards securing +himself with the leather straps. + +Friday, 29th December. + +Left our anchorage at daylight in the morning; passed between the Piper +Islands and Bald Head. When off Fair Cape saw a smoke on the shore, and +three natives, who immediately disappeared in the scrub and were seen no +more. On rounding the Cape it became a dead calm, and it was intensely +hot; we saw a smoke and a large fire ahead of us. Jackey recognised the +land and said the smoke was at the mouth of a river which Mr. Kennedy and +he had crossed after leaving the camp. The land where the camp and eight +men were Jackey pointed out ahead of us, opposite to Weymouth Bay; a +heavy squall and thunderstorm with rain came on very suddenly, and beyond +the mouth of the river, with the camping-hill ahead of us, we came to an +anchor, between two and three o'clock P.M.; could not see any flagstaff +on the hill pointed out by Jackey, and which hill is very conspicuous and +bald, nor could we see any symptom of living beings along the coast in +the bay. It was too great a distance to land to-night, and the Captain +said if it came on to blow the boat could not be got back again. Employed +the other part of the day in looking through the glass and with the naked +eye to see the flagstaff and flag, or any other sign (Jackey having +informed us they would have a flag on the top of the hill) but none was +to be seen, not a native, and I have reason to believe every one of the +eight have been sacrificed; it looks suspicious not seeing a native, for +Jackey says they used to bring fish to the camp, and there were plenty of +them. The Captain is to take the ship in as near as possible to the hill, +and it is determined to go on shore with the same party who assisted us +at Shelburne Bay, and go up to the camp to-morrow well armed. All this +evening a solemn, silent, inexpressible gloom; no rockets, no gun, no +fire, to-morrow will tell a tale. + +Saturday, 30th December, 1848. + +At daylight this morning the ship was got underweigh, and sailed nearer +in towards the hill which Jackey had pointed out as being the hill where +"camp sit down," and anchored in about two fathoms of water about half a +mile off the land. Five canoes were now seen creeping off towards us from +under the mangroves, with from five to ten natives in each (there was yet +no flag or any token of white people on the hill); the canoes gradually +neared in a string, and one came cautiously alongside, making signs and +saying "ferraman, ferraman," "white man, white man," and pointing towards +Jackey's mountain. We were at first doubtful whether they were disposed +to be friendly or not, and afterwards seeing some children with them and +one or two females, we concluded they were disposed to be friendly, and +that they knew the parties at the camp. A few lines were written to the +party at the camp, stating a vessel was in the bay, and the bearer, one +of the natives, would take them to it. This was given to one of the +natives in the first canoe, and Jackey, whom the natives recognised, +beckoned and motioned to them to take the note to the camp. In the +meantime the Captain and I had determined as soon as the boat could be +got ready, to proceed according to Jackey's instructions to the camp. The +boat left with our party, and Jackey directed us some distance off in the +wake of the canoes, there being nothing but a mangrove swamp on the shore +near us. We landed beside of a creek knee-deep in water, among some +mangroves. Here we got out of the boat, Jackey, the Captain, Barrett, and +myself, Tom, the sailor, who had accompanied us before, saying he could +not go, that he had a bad leg. We were a little disappointed here, but +said nothing, and proceeded, Jackey leading, myself, the Captain, and +Barrett following, through a mangrove swamp, for some considerable +distance, all well armed. Getting out of the swamp we came upon a +beautiful flat, and followed up a creek which Jackey said would lead up +to the camp. After getting on (keeping a good lookout) for about two +miles, Jackey doubled his pace, and all at once said with great emphasis, +"I see camp." "Well done, Jackey," I think was exclaimed by all of us at +the same moment. Jackey, still going on at a sharp pace, stopped for a +moment and said, "I not sure, I believe it is hole through tree," and +suddenly, with greater excitement than before, he exclaimed, "See two +whitefellows sit down, and camp." We were now on one side of the creek: +down the creek we went, and up on the other side in double-quick time, +and a scene presented itself. On the side of the hill, not two hundred +yards from us, were two men sitting down, looking towards us, the tent +and fire immediately behind them; and on coming up to them, two of the +most pitiable creatures imaginable were sitting down. One had sufficient +strength to get up; the other appeared to be like a man in the very last +stage of consumption. Alas! alas! they were the only two left of the +eight, the remainder having died from starvation. Whilst here we were +considering what was best to be done, when natives in great numbers were +descried watching our movements. Jackey said, "Doctor," calling me aside, +"now I tell you exactly what to do, you see those blackfellows over +there" (and in pointing to them I saw a great number, some eight hundred +yards away, peeping from behind trees) "you leave him tent, everything, +altogether there, and get the two whitefellows down to the boat quick." +Jackey was exceedingly energetic, and grave as well. Get away as quick as +possible, was resounded by all, but what was to be done--two men almost +dead to walk two or three miles. We looked over the tent, asked Carron +for what important things there were, and each laid hold of what appeared +to be of most value, the Captain taking two sextants, other parties +firearms, etc., etc. "Come along," again and again Jackey called out, and +the Captain too, whilst they were halfway down towards the creek, and +Barrett and I loaded ourselves. I took a case of seeds, some papers of +Carron's, a double gun and pistol, which, together with my own double gun +and brace of pistols, thermometer, and my pockets full of powder and +shot, was as much as I could manage. Seeing Carron could not get along, I +told him to put his hands on my shoulders, and in this way he managed to +walk down, as far as nearly through the mangrove swamp, towards the +water's edge, when he could not in that way possibly get any further, and +Barrett, with his disabled arm, carried him down to the edge of the +water. Goddard, the other survivor, was just able to walk down, spoke, +and looked exceedingly feeble. They were brought on board at noon, and +attended to according to my instructions. Carron's legs were dreadfully +swollen, about three times their natural size, from oedema. In the +afternoon both reviving and thanking God for their deliverance. I was for +some time afraid of Carron. At ten P.M.--they are both doing well, and, I +trust, will be enabled to tell their own tale, which renders it +unnecessary for me to write it down here. I told the Captain to proceed +direct on to Sydney. Jackey, Carron, and Goddard, and the Captain, +stating it would be running too great a risk to go to recover anything +from the tent, moreover, with so small a party as the Captain, Jackey, +and myself (Barrett really being unfit to go) and the sailors all +refusing to go. I consider the Captain deserves considerable credit for +his actions throughout in exerting himself to rescue the survivors. + +Sunday, December 31. + +At daylight got underweigh and took our departure from Weymouth Bay for +Sydney. Carron and Goddard were some considerable time in getting better; +the former being subject to daily fits of ague, etc., etc. + +Thursday, January 11, 1849. + +The black native had made his escape during the night, whilst it was +raining and blowing hard; we were at this time anchored about one and a +half or two miles from Turtle Reef, and a distance of eight miles from +Cape Bedford, the nearest part of the mainland; made search on the reef, +but saw no marks of him; a strong current was making towards Cape +Bedford, and he might have taken that direction. Two large sharks were +seen about the ship this morning; it is our impression the man can never +have reached the land; the black was seen by Parker, on deck, at two +A.M., whilst it was thundering, lightning, and raining, but was never +seen afterwards. + +... + + +EXTRACT + +From the private log of T. BECKFORD SIMPSON, master of the brig Freak,* +giving an account of her proceedings when employed in searching for the +papers, etc., connected with the late Mr. Kennedy's exploring party. + +(*Footnote. Under contract with the Colonial Government to call (on her +way to Port Essington) at Shelburne Bay and Escape River, to ascertain, +if possible, the fate of the three men left at the former place, and +recover the papers of Mr. Kennedy secreted by Jackey-Jackey, who went in +the Freak to point out the localities.) + +Wednesday, May 2, 1849. + +In the night fresh breezes from North-East with rain; at daylight weighed +and made sail, the Harbinger in company; shaped a course to pass between +Cape Direction and the low sandy island which lies off it; passed close +to the latter; I observed the reef extending from the North-East end +further than laid down on the chart; after passing it, and giving Cape +Direction a good berth, shaped a course for Restoration Island. At 9 A.M. +dense masses of rain-clouds to the east and north-east. The weather +became thick and rainy, shortened sail to the topsails. At 10.30 A.M., +the weather clearing a little, saw Restoration and Cape Weymouth; when +close to the former we had heavy squalls with rain, which prevented our +seeing the land; hove-to with the vessel's head to the North-East; +shortly after the weather clearing a little so as to enable us to see the +land, bore up and stood in for Weymouth Bay. The rain now descended in +torrents, lowered topsails on the cap, feeling our way cautiously with +the lead; finding the water shoaling, anchored in twelve fathoms; at 0.30 +P.M., the weather clearing a little, saw Restoration, bearing +South-South-East 1/2 East, and a small island distant about a mile west. + +At 3.30 P.M. fine, and finding we were a long distance out, weighed and +ran in under the jib, the Harbinger following our example; as we +approached the bottom of the bay the water shoaled gradually, and when +the haze lifted Jackey pointed out the hill at the foot of which was the +camp where Mr. Kennedy had left eight of the party, and from whence +Carron and Goddard had been rescued. We stood into five fathoms, and at 5 +P.M. anchored about 1 1/2 miles from the shore; the Harbinger brought up +close to us. Made up my mind to visit the camp in the morning, and +endeavour to find if there were any papers which might have been left and +not destroyed. + +Thursday, May 3. + +During the night moderate breeze from the south with light showers. At +five A.M., Captain Sampson came alongside, he wishing to join our party, +and visit the camp. Having well manned and armed the large whaleboat, +pulled on shore, and landed at the entrance of a small river, on a little +sand patch, the place having been pointed out by Jackey; it was the only +clear landing-place I saw. A dense mangrove swamp extended some distance +beyond high-water mark. We had no sooner landed than the rain fell in +torrents, and continued for three hours, so much so that we could not +load our guns. It was about high-water when we landed, and in the +mangrove scrub through which we had to go, the water was nearly up to our +waists. We had, therefore, no alternative but to remain patiently until +the tide fell, and the rain ceased. + +On searching the place where we landed, part of a blanket was found, +marked B (arrow pointing up) O, a part of a tarpaulin, a piece of canvas, +apparently a portion of a tent, and a small tin dish, with a name +scratched on its back. These articles were evidently part of the pillage +from the camp. A little way up the creek we found three canoes, very +rudely made, with outriggers on both sides. We searched and found some +small pieces of iron, which we took, being also pillage from the +exploring party. At ten A.M., less rain, got some of our pieces blown off +with difficulty, they being drenched with rain. + +At eleven A.M., having some of our guns in a state to be trusted, we took +to our boats and pulled a short distance up the creek in order to avoid +in some measure the crossing of the mangrove swamp. We started, Jackey +taking the lead, leaving a party to look after the boats. We walked for a +short distance in the mangrove swamp, and came out on an open spot where +we found a native camp, which from appearances had been but recently +abandoned, the ashes of the fire being still warm: we made a strict +search, but found nothing; we proceeded, passed through a small belt of +mangroves, and came on an open plain; here Jackey and Tommy being the +leading men, saw five natives, about fifty yards from us, planted behind +trees, each had a bundle of spears, they were evidently watching us, +Jackey levelled his gun at the nearest, and off they ran and disappeared +immediately; Jackey seemed very desirous to shoot them, but I told him +not to fire, as I wished to speak to them. + +From the recent heavy rain the plain was very nearly knee-deep with +water, nearly the whole distance we travelled the water was over our +ankles, making walking very fatiguing. After crossing the plain we came +to a band of trees and bushes, among them I was surprised to find some +very fine banana plants; I observed also a fine specimen of the red cedar +(the only tree I had hitherto seen was the Melaleuca) here we crossed a +small creek, and came on fine forest land. After proceeding some +distance, Jackey pointed out the place where the party first camped, and +where Mr. Kennedy left the eight men; they subsequently removed to the +opposite side of the creek; near this place on a tree was carved in large +letters K. LXXX., which I suppose meant the eightieth station. On coming +to the creek found it running too strong for us to ford it; went along by +its side a short distance, and were fortunate to find a tree extending +across it, upon which we got over; found the grass as high as our +shoulders, crossed a small gully and ascended a slight acclivity, which +brought us to the site of the camp; a bare spot of ground indicated the +exact locality; this spot was strewed with portions of books, all of a +religious or scientific character; found no manuscripts; parts of +harness, leather belts, pieces of cedar boxes in leather covers were also +found; one or two tins for carrying water, a camp stool, and part of a +table, and piece of a tent pole, the bones, skulls, and part of the +feathers of birds, etc.; specimens of natural history, all destroyed. I +observed the bones of a horse, and the skull of a dog; a piece of torn +calico with a portion of a chart adhering to it was picked up; I thought +I could make out the words River Mitchell on it. I found among the pieces +of books, a portion of Leichhardt's journey overland. + +I was some time before I could find the remains of Wall and Niblet, who +were the last men that died, and had not been buried, the survivors being +too weak. I placed myself at the camp, and looked about for the likeliest +place to which a corpse would be taken under the circumstances. I went +down into a small gully, about sixty yards from the camp; under some +small bushes, in about two feet of water, I found their bones, two skulls +and some of the larger bones, the smaller ones having most probably been +washed away by the flood; the bones were all carefully collected and +taken on board. From the position in which these bones were found, +agreeing with the description given me by Mr. Carron, I feel confident +they are the remains of Wall and Niblet. + +I was rather surprised to find some cabbage-palm trees growing in the +vicinity of the camp; the tops are very nutritious, and would be very +desirable for men in a starving state, had they been aware of it. I +picked up part of a key belonging to a chronometer. After having a good +look round, we returned to the boats, all tired, from our drenching and +wading through so much mud and water, and we unfortunately had no +provisions of any kind, and had eaten nothing all day. When we pulled to +the entrance of the river it was low-water, and there was a bank dry +outside of us for upwards of half a mile; we had no alternative but to +wait until the tide flowed. At half past three P.M., got on board, +hoisted the boat in, and prepared to start in the morning. + +Friday, May 4. + +At daylight, weighed, with a light breeze from the southward; steered to +give Fair Cape a berth. I observed the entrance of a large river at the +north end of Weymouth Bay. At half-past ten A.M., passed Piper's Islands, +and steered for Young Island; could not make it out for some time, when +we did see it, found it only a small reef above water, not worthy the +name of an island; such a misnomer is likely to mislead; hauled up for +the reef M. At noon, abreast of Haggerstone Island, steered to give Sir +Everard Home's Isles a berth; saw natives on Cape Grenville; hauled in +for Sunday Island; the wind light from the eastward; passed Thorpe Point, +and hauled in for Round Point. At five P.M., anchored in six fathoms, +mud. Bearings at anchor, North Sand Hill, D (conical hill) South-East 1/2 +East; South Wind Hillock (a saddle hill) South 3/4 East; the remarkable +sand patch, South-West 1/2 West; Jackey's Pudding-pan Hill, West 1/4 +North. Got the whaleboat and crew ready to start at daylight for +Shelburne Bay. + +On consulting Jackey about going to the camp where the three men were +left, he said it was no use going there; the distance was great, and the +country scrubby, and that he was sure if any of the men were alive, they +would be on the seacoast. Dunn, one of the men, told him, if Costigan +died, he should come down to the beach directly. I therefore considered +all that we could do would be to thoroughly examine the coast with the +whaleboat, close in shore, and the brig as near as she prudently could +approach. + +At daylight despatched the whaleboat, in charge of the second officer, +with four seamen, Jackey, and his two companions, with particular orders +to keep close to the beach, and to land occasionally, to examine all the +native camping places and canoes; to make strict search for anything that +might tend to point out the fate of the unfortunate men. At 6.30 A.M. +weighed, with a light breeze from the southward, and steered to pass +between the Bird and Macarthur Islands; at noon abreast of the latter; +P.M., after passing Hannibal Isles, hauled in for the shore, for the +purpose of picking up the whaleboat. At 5.30 P.M., having shoaled our +water rather suddenly to 3 1/2 fathoms, hard bottom, anchored about a +mile off shore. Saw a canoe and a few natives on the beach. Bearings at +anchor--Risk Point, South 1/2 East; the centre of the Hannibal Isles, +South-East by East 1/2 East. At eight P.M. the boat returned. The second +officer made the following Report: + +I kept close along the beach all day, landed three times; first, near the +creek where the Ariel's boat landed, saw no indication there of +Europeans. I landed again some distance further on, where I saw a native +camp and a canoe. In the latter I found a leather pistol holster, marked +34, which Jackey recognised as belonging to the party. Three natives were +seen by Jackey, who, on perceiving the boat, ran into the bush. At the +third place I landed I saw no indication of men. I was close to the beach +all along, and occasionally fired a musket. + +Jackey appears confident that the men left have been killed by the +blacks. He said he had hopes of finding Dunn, he being a man that "knew +blackfellow well, and used to go along blackfellow." + +Sunday, May 6th, 1849. + +At daylight sent the boat on shore, manned as before, with instructions +to land at the place where I saw natives last night. At 6.30 A.M., +weighed and set the topsail to a light breeze from the southward, steered +North by East 1/2 East, hauling out a little from the land. At seven +heard a rumbling noise, looked over the vessel's side and saw we were in +shoal water, the vessel gradually losing her way, but still continued +forging ahead a little; lowered the boat and sounded round, found more +water ahead, thirteen and fourteen feet; inshore, about half a cable's +length found five and six fathoms; to seaward, eleven and eleven and a +half feet. Set the foresail: having a flowing tide the vessel went ahead +and deepened our water; after going ahead about two or three ship's +lengths touched again slightly, and immediately after got into five and +six fathoms. The sea being smooth at the time, and the after part of the +keel being the only part of the vessel that touched, she cannot have +received any material damage. This shoal appeared to be of small extent, +composed of sand and coral; it is not laid down in the chart, but is very +dangerous, not being visible from the masthead. I went aloft after +crossing it, and could perceive no indication of shoal water. The +bearings I got when on the shoal were, the outer or larger Hannibal +Island, South-East 1/2 East, the inner one (only a solitary tree visible) +South by East 1/2 East. + +At eleven A.M. passed Cairncross Island, running under easy sail and +keeping as near the shore as prudent to keep the boat in sight. I have +given instructions to the officers in charge to make a signal if anything +was discovered. At half-past four hauled in for Fern Island; at five +anchored under the lee in three fathoms, mud; bearings, the highest part +of Fern Island South by East, the entrance to Escape River, North-West by +West 1/2 West, hoisted the recall for the boat, on the return of which +the officer reported as follows: + +I ran along close to the shore all day. I landed a little to the +southward of Orfordness. We met about thirty natives on the beach, who +came up to us without hesitation, and appeared very friendly; they shook +hands with all of us, and brought us water. Jackey at first thought he +recognised the native who escaped from the Ariel among them; he got a +little excited, and wanted to shoot him, when he approached nearer he was +satisfied he was not the same individual. At another place where I landed +I found part of the lower mast of a vessel about 400 tons, and pieces of +wreck; saw no natives or indication of them on the beach. + +The schooner remained at anchor, and from the fact of her doing so, I +came to the conclusion it could be no other vessel than the Coquette;* +seeing her so far from her station, I imagined there was something wrong, +or that she had heard the unfortunate termination of the expedition, and +was preparing to leave; I determined to communicate with her before +proceeding up Escape River; at half-past eight A.M., saw four natives on +the beach. + +(*Footnote. Which had been sent from Sydney to await the arrival of +Kennedy's Expedition at Port Albany, the period for which the Ariel had +been chartered for that purpose having expired.) + +At nine A.M., I left in the whaleboat for the schooner--the small boat +employed watering. At half past eleven A.M. I boarded the Coquette; +Captain Elliott had heard by the Sea Nymph, from Hobart Town, the fate of +the expedition, and was about leaving for Sydney. She reported the ship +Lord Auckland, from Hobart Town, with horses, having been aground on the +X reef for several days; she subsequently got off, and had proceeded on +her voyage, not having sustained any very material damage; she had lost +four anchors, and the Coquette was going to try to pick them up. Having +explained to Captain Elliott my intention of proceeding up the Escape +River in the morning, he volunteered to accompany me, and to supply two +hands, which enabled me to man my two boats, thus making a most +formidable party. + +At daylight made preparations for starting. I took the five-oared +whaleboat, and the second officer, accompanied by Captain Elliott, went +in the small boat, both well armed and manned. At half-past six A.M. we +left and ran before a strong breeze from the South-East, and stood in for +the entrance of Escape River. At half-past seven hauled in round the +south head (Point Shadwell): in crossing the bar, least water three +fathoms, the tide being about first quarter spring flood. + +After entering the river perceived a bay, with small sandy beaches, one +of which Jackey pointed out as the place where Mr. Kennedy first met the +hostile natives; from this place we observed some of them launching a +canoe for the purpose of speaking us, but as we could not afford to lose +either the time or the tide I deferred communicating with them until our +return. After steering west about five or six miles, the river began +gradually to wind to the northward, and afterwards South-South-East; the +river six or seven miles from the entrance was upwards of a mile in +width, both banks were covered by a dense impenetrable mangrove swamp; +after the river trended to the southward we had to lower our sail and +pull; after pulling some four or five miles the river became gradually +narrower. I observed several branches of it trending to the northward and +westward; we remained on the southernmost branch, the principal one; as +we proceeded on the left hand side of the river we came to a clear place +free of mangroves, the only one we had seen; here we landed, and Jackey +pointed it out as the place where Mr. Kennedy had come down on the +morning of the day when he was killed; it was here Jackey advised him to +abandon the horses and swim the river, about thirty yards wide. Jackey +pointed out the tree where he made the horses fast whilst they went down +to the river and searched in vain for oysters, they having had nothing to +eat all that day. + +We again proceeded, the river becoming gradually narrower as we advanced, +and the water perfectly fresh. After going about two or three miles, the +river became so narrow that our oars could not be used. We were compelled +to haul the boats along, against a strong stream, by the overhanging +branches of the trees, frequently coming across fallen trees, over which +we had to launch our boats, running the risk of staving them; and again +obliged to force them under others. A better spot could not have been +selected by the natives for cutting us off, had they been so disposed--a +narrow creek, and a dense scrub on either side. We still proceeded till +the boats could get no further. We had traced the Escape River to its +source--a small freshwater creek. As we advanced the belt of mangroves +became thinner. We landed on a clear place, on the right of the creek. We +went a short distance inland; saw an extensive plain, with numerous large +ant-hills on it, which Jackey knew as the place he had crossed the day +Mr. Kennedy was killed. Jackey went a short distance further to +reconnoitre, and presently returned, having perfectly satisfied himself +as to our locality. + +After making a hasty meal we proceeded, leaving four hands in charge of +the boats; we walked some distance across a swamp, still following the +course of the creek. In the swamp I saw a great many of the Nepenthes +distillatoria, or pitcher-plant; they were not exactly of the same +description I have seen on the Pellew Islands, and other places; nearly +all of them wanted the graceful turn in the stem, for which those elegant +plants are so justly celebrated. We traced the creek for nearly a mile, +looking out for a crossing-place, when Jackey pointed out on the other +side the place where he had secreted the saddlebags. At length we came to +a tree which had fallen and formed a kind of bridge, over which we passed +with difficulty, and returned to the place where Jackey said the +saddlebags were planted. Jackey then showed us the place where "horse +tumble down creek" after being speared. Some horse-dung was found on the +top of the bank close to this place, which confirmed Jackey's statement; +he then took us a few yards into the scrub to look for the saddlebags, +and told us to look about for a broken twig, growing over a thick bush; +the place was found, but the saddlebags were gone; on searching under the +bush among the leaves, the horizon glass of a sextant was found, a strong +proof that Jackey had found the right place. + +Jackey then took us through a dense scrub for some distance, when we came +on open swampy ground about half a mile wide; on the opposite side there +was more scrub, close to which there were three large ant-hills; Jackey +took us up to the centre one, five yards from which poor Kennedy fell; +against this ant-hill Jackey placed him when he went after the +saddlebags. Jackey told us to look about for broken spears; some pieces +were found; he then took us to a place about sixty yards from the +ant-hill, where he put Mr. Kennedy, who then told him not to carry him +far. About a quarter of a mile from this place, towards the creek, Jackey +pointed out a clear space of ground, near an angle of a very small +running stream of fresh water, close to three young pandanus trees, as +the place where the unfortunate gentleman died. Jackey had taken him here +to wash his wounds and stop the blood. It was here, when poor Kennedy +found he was dying, that he gave Jackey instructions about the papers, +when Jackey said, "Why do you talk so: you are not going to leave me?" + +Jackey then led the way to a dense tea-tree scrub, distant about three or +four hundred yards, where he had carried the body and buried it. When we +came to the edge of the scrub, Jackey was at a loss where to enter, as he +said when he was carrying the corpse he did not look behind--all the +objects in front being nearly alike he did not get a good mark. Into the +midst of this scrub we went, divided ourselves and searched in every +direction, but could not find the place: Jackey had not made the spot too +conspicuous, fearing the blacks might find it, he had only bent down two +twigs across each other; the scrub was not very extensive but exceedingly +thick. + +Jackey led the way to a creek, and pointed out the place where he had +crossed. Jackey said "I threw him down one fellow compass somewhere +here." It was immediately found, it was one of Kater's prismatic +compasses, the name Chislett, London, engraved on the back. Jackey then +went to a place where he "plant him sextant," but the flood had been over +the spot and washed it away. When returning I found the trough for an +artificial horizon washed upon the banks of the creek, this had been left +with the sextant. Jackey crossed the creek, and found a small wooden +bottle of quicksilver in the same place where he had left it. + +We returned to the scrub where Mr. Kennedy was buried, when we came to it +I placed the party (eleven in number) five yards asunder, and traversed +it this way in all directions, but without success. I then took Jackey to +the plain where the poor gentleman died, and told him to go towards the +scrub in the same manner he did when he was carrying the corpse, and not +to look back, which he did, telling me the manner in which he carried it, +and where he shifted it from one shoulder to the other. In this manner he +entered the scrub, and I have no doubt he took us very near the exact +place where the body was buried; we sounded the ground all round with our +ramrods, but without success. After taking another good look we +reluctantly gave up the search, as the night was rapidly approaching, and +returned to the boats. + +My opinion is, that the remains of the unfortunate gentleman have not +been exhumed; if they had, we should have seen some indication of them; +the natives would not have taken the trouble to fill the grave, or take +away the bones. The soil where he was buried was of a light sandy nature, +and the small mound Jackey rose over the grave had been washed down by +the heavy rains. The only clue that gave rise to the supposition that the +natives had found the body, was the fact that part of Mr. Kennedy's +trousers was found in the canoe taken by the schooner Ariel. Jackey said +there were other trousers in the saddlebag, exactly like those he had on +at the time of his death. The saddlebags, there is not the slightest +doubt, have been found by the natives. Poor Jackey was very quiet, but +felt, and felt deeply, during the day. When pointing out the spot where +Mr. Kennedy died, I saw tears in his eyes, and no one could be more +indefatigable in searching for the remains. His feelings against the +natives were bitter, and had any of them made their appearance at the +time, I could hardly have prevented him from shooting them. + +When we got back to the boats, we immediately proceeded down the creek, +being anxious to get clear of the intricate navigation before dark. We +succeeded in getting into the open river with difficulty, the numerous +snags and branches of trees in the creek, together with the strong +current, requiring great precaution to prevent our boats being stove. + +A few yards above the place pointed out by Jackey in the morning, where +Mr. Kennedy came down to the river for the purpose of crossing, we found +the water very shallow, not ankle deep, right across, and had they waited +until low-water they might have crossed without difficulty; as we pulled +down the river we found numerous shoals, our boat constantly grounding; +in fact Escape River is not a river, but an estuary, terminating in +swamps. + +At eleven we arrived at the entrance of the river, where I camped for the +night, on a sandy beach not far from Point Shadwell, having determined to +examine the native camp at daybreak. Set a watch, but made no fire, as I +wanted to take the natives by surprise. + +Wednesday, May 9th, 1849. + +Blowing very hard all night from South-East; passed a miserable +night--the mosquitoes devouring us. At break of day launched our boats +and pulled towards the camp where we had seen natives the day before. +Some of the party went along the beach. On arriving at the camp found it +had very recently been abandoned; one of Jackey's companions saw one +native, who ran into the bush and was seen no more. + +I went with Jackey some distance into the bush, he showed me the place +where a native threw a spear at him the day before Mr. Kennedy's death; +Jackey fired, but missed him. I forgot to mention that the master of the +Coquette had seen a native at Port Albany, who had, apparently, been +wounded in the face with large shot, and as he answered the exact +description given by Jackey, there is little doubt that he was the same +individual mentioned in his statement as shot by him. + +We searched the camp, found a small piece of red cloth, which Jackey +recognised as part of the lining of Mr. Kennedy's cloak, also a piece of +painted canvas; a canoe on the beach we destroyed. Finding nothing more +could be done, we pulled out of the river, and got on board about ten +A.M., after a very hard pull against both a head wind and tide. + +Found the brig riding very uneasy in consequence of the heavy sea, and as +Jackey said the other papers, called by him the small ones, and which I +conceive to be the most important, as he was particularly instructed to +take them to the Governor, were secreted at the head of another river, +about eight miles further to the northward, and finding the vessel could +not ride any longer here with safety, I determined, when the tide ceased, +to weigh and seek some more secure anchorage. + +At half-past twelve P.M. weighed, the Coquette in company, and stood to +the northward. At half-past four hard squalls and heavy rain; rounded the +Tree Island Reef and anchored in five fathoms, about one and a half miles +from the north end of Albany Island. + +I do not intend going into Port Albany, as the tides run very strong +there; outside is quite as safe at this season. In the evening went on +shore on Albany Island. Saw four or five natives, who knew Captain +Elliott; they were very anxious to get biscuit and tobacco. They seem to +be the same class of men as those at Port Essington, but the language is, +I think, different. + +Thursday, May 10. + +All night blowing hard, and squally. At daylight same weather; no chance +of the boat getting to the southward today. At ten went on shore, for the +purpose of selecting a spot to inter the remains of Messrs. Wall and +Niblet. Saw the horse left by the Ariel; he seemed in good condition, but +rather shy; no chance, I fear, of catching him. Took some corn and meal +in a bucket for him. + +At three P.M. the weather rather more moderate. Both vessels got +underweigh, and worked close inshore. At 4.30 anchored in three and +three-quarters fathoms, mud: Tree Island North-East by East half East; +Pile Island West half South; north extreme of Albany Island South by East +half East; within a short half mile of the shore. + +Got all ready for a start in the morning, should the weather be moderate. +Should the weather continue bad, I proposed to Jackey to try the overland +route. He said the distance was too great, and the country very bad to +travel through; that it would take several days. + +Friday, May 11th, 1849. + +All night fresh breeze and squally, at daylight rather more moderate, at +half-past six despatched the whaleboat, fully manned and armed and +provisioned for two days, and Jackey and his two companions. I gave +charge of the boat to Macnate, my chief officer. I did not think there +was any necessity to go myself, as Jackey said they were not likely to +fall in with any natives. Captain Elliot volunteered his services and +accompanied the party. Employed watering ship, found water very abundant +all over Albany Island. + +Saturday, May 12th, 1849. + +At half-past one P.M. the whaleboat returned, having got the papers, +etc., secreted by Jackey in a hollow tree. A rat or some animal had +pulled them out of the tree, and they were saturated with water, and I +fear nearly destroyed; they consisted of a roll of charts and some +memorandum books. The charts with care may be deciphered. The following +is Mr. Macnate's statement: + +May 11. + +At eight A.M. we rounded Fly Point, set sail and steered South by West, +the boat going about five knots, just laying along the shore. At ten A.M. +crossed a bank with only nine feet of water on it, passed a reef about +three miles from Fly Point, and half a mile from the shore; from former +shoal had three and four fathoms to the entrance of the river. At +half-past eleven A.M. entered the mouth of a river, near the centre of +Newcastle Bay; here we lost sight of Albany Island, making the distance +from it about fourteen miles; the entrance of this river is about one +mile and a half wide; on the northern half of the entrance the water is +deep, three fathoms; on the southern side there is a sandbank, nearly dry +at low-water. + +From the entrance we went South-South-West five miles, when the river +narrowed to about the third of a mile, we had from six to two and a half +fathoms all the way in. From here we went into the branch of the river +that ran about south, the main river going west. The entrance to the +branch is about two cables' lengths wide, we went in a southerly +direction about six miles, when the river narrowed to forty feet; here we +landed at half-past three P.M. Leaving two hands in charge of the boat, +walked about two and a half miles, where Jackey found the papers, they +had been pulled out of the hollow trunk where he had placed them, and +were much damaged, being saturated with water. We then went half a mile +to where Jackey had camped, to look for a pair of compasses he had left; +could not find them, but found a notebook that Jackey had been drawing +sketches in; from here we went to another camp to look for the compasses, +but did not find them. At half-past five came back to the boat and camped +for the night, none of us could sleep on account of the mosquitoes and +flies, etc. + +At six A.M. started down the river; at eight calm, got into the main +river, had breakfast. At half-past eight, a light breeze from the +eastward. At eleven passed within half a mile of two native canoes with +seven men in each, stood towards them, they immediately paddled away. At +one rounded Fly Point, and at half-past one got alongside the brig. + +Sunday, May 13, 1849. + +Fresh breeze from South-East and fine all day. At eight A.M. both vessels +hoisted the ensign half-mast. At three P.M. having put the remains of +Messrs. Wall and Niblet in a coffin, left the ship in the two boats with +nearly all the ship's crew cleaned, and pulled to the southern end of +Albany Island, landed and went up to the highest hill on that part of the +island, and on the top, a clear open place, we dug a grave and interred +the remains of the unfortunate individuals Thomas Wall and Charles +Niblet, reading the funeral service over them; about ten or twelve of the +natives were present, and we fully explained to them what we were doing, +they conducted themselves with propriety when the funeral service was +being read. Poor Jackey was much affected, and could not refrain from +tears. + +The spot I selected is the most conspicuous on the island, and would be +an excellent site for the erection of a monument to the memory of the +unfortunate men who perished on the late ill-fated expedition.* At each +end of the grave I planted two large bushes, and on the top were placed +several large stones. A bottle was suspended over the grave, with a paper +in it, stating who was interred, with the date, etc.; and at sunset we +returned on board. + +(*Footnote. A tombstone with suitable inscription was afterwards erected +by Captain Stanley, and two young coconut trees were planted near the +grave.) + +I cannot close my extracts without mentioning the exemplary conduct of +Jackey-Jackey. Since he came on board I have always found him quiet, +obliging, and very respectful; when on shore he was very attentive, +nothing could abstract him from his object; the sagacity and knowledge he +displayed in traversing the trackless wilderness were astonishing; when +he found the places he went in search of, he was never flushed with +success, but invariably maintained his quiet, unobtrusive behaviour; he +was much concerned at not being able to find the remains of his late +unfortunate master, to whom he was sincerely attached; his two +companions* also conducted themselves well, and were very useful on +shore. + +(*Footnote. Aboriginal blacks of his own tribe.) + +... + + + +APPENDIX 1. + +COMPARATIVE VOCABULARY OF TWO OF THE LANGUAGES OF THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF +CAPE YORK. + +A few words procured at Cape York and Port Lihou are given in the Voyage +of the Fly, and most of those which I have been able to identify belong +to the language spoken by the Kowrarega tribe, inhabiting the Prince of +Wales Islands, and frequently visiting Cape York. + +For the materials composing the present Kowrarega Vocabulary, I am almost +entirely indebted to Mrs. Thomson. Unfortunately, however, her total want +of education prevented her from acquiring any idea of the construction of +the language; nor could she always be made to understand the meaning of a +question--however simple in its form--framed to elicit information on +this point. Even by carefully sifting at leisure hours the mass of crude +materials obtained from her and written down at each interview, day by +day, I did not make sufficient progress in the grammar of the language to +enable me to pursue the subject further, until her value as an authority +had so far declined that it was prudent to reject it altogether. Nearly +all the words originally procured from Mrs. Thomson were subsequently +verified either by herself or by our Kowrarega visitors. + +The Gudang Vocabulary was formed at Cape York, and the chief contributor +to it was the black named Paida, mentioned above, to whom I latterly was +able to make myself tolerably well understood upon most subjects, through +the medium of the Kowrarega language, which he knew thoroughly. As +several dialects are spoken at this place,* I took care to reject all +such words as were not given me expressly as Gudang. + +(*Footnote. Two examples will suffice to show the differences in the five +languages which I have heard spoken at Cape York. + +Dog = ing-godinya (Gudang and Yagulle), ngyomo (Kachialaiga), Inyomo +(Induyamo), umai (Kowrarega). + +Smoke = ekura (Gudang and Induyamo), rong-gura (Yagulle and Kachialaiga), +tuo (Kowrarega).) + +The following rules have been adopted in the Vocabularies: + +[The vowels are sounded as follows: + +a as in hard. +a as in hat. +e as in there. +e as in bet. +e as in French meme. +i as in eel. +i as in bit. +o as in hole. +o as in not. +u as in cool. +u as in cut. +ai as in eye. +ei not represented in English.] + +G is always hard, as in get; ch soft, as in church. + +The letters in italics are sometimes omitted. + +The numbers appended to some words point out similarities and +derivations. + +... + + +1. NATURAL OBJECTS.* + +(*Footnote. To form the plural of a noun or adjective, the rule appears +to be to add le as a postfix, sometimes previously supplying a terminal +vowel if required: Example: geta = hand becomes getale in the plural: +kuku = foot, kukule: kutai = yam, kutaile: ipi = wife, ipile: kerne = lad +undergoing a certain ceremony, kernele: makaow = mat, makaowle: bom = +fruit of pandanus, bomale. There are exceptions however; mari = shell +ornament, makes marurre in the plural: gul = canoe, gulai: tawpei = +short, tawpeingh: all nouns ending in ra have the plural in re, as kowra += ear, kowrare and all ending in kai gain jille in the plural, as ipikai += woman, ipikaijille. + +Regarding the allusion to a terminal vowel, it may be mentioned here that +as most Kowrarega words end in a vowel, its absence when a vowel +commences the following word is commonly owing to elision. Example: udzu +umai = my dog becomes udz'umai. When the last consonant in a word is the +same as the first in the following word, one of the letters is omitted. +Example: apa pirung = soft ground becomes ap'irung. There are numerous +other contractions, as ai for aidu = food: aiye for aiyewel = come here: +mue utsem = the fire has gone out, for mue utsimem etc.) + +COLUMN 1: ITEM NUMBER. +COLUMN 2: ENGLISH. +COLUMN 3: KOWRAREGA. +COLUMN 4: GUDANG. + +1 : Sky : je : -. +2 : Sun : gariga : inga. +3 : Cloud : dapar : otera. +4 : Cloud, heavy, cumulus : markei : -. +5 : Cloud, driving, scud : ras : -. +6 : Moon : kissuri : aikana. +7 : Moon, new : kainidung (634) : kichia. +8 : Moon, full : mullpal : ichara. +9 : Moonlight : kapi kissurri (612.6) : -. +10 : Star : titure : onbi, unbi. +11 : Star, falling : titure udzarizhe (10.745) : -. +12 : Star, morning : gariga titure (2.10) : -. +13 : Jupiter ? : dogei : -. +14 : Pleiades : kusali* : -. + +(*Footnote. The frequency of words having different meanings may perhaps +lead some to suppose that they may have originated in error on my part. +Some have a figurative connexion as upu = a series of waterholes, also a +blister; kusali = the constellation of the Pleiades, also a plant with +bunches of seeds which become white and glittering by exposure to the +sun: others have no obvious community of meaning, as ari = rain, also a +louse; gi = laughter, also ripe, &tc.) + +15 : Darkness, night : inur : yulpalga. +16 : Shadow, shade : yirada : moda. +17 : Wind : guba : alba. +18 : Rain : ari : apura. +19 : Rainbow : oripara : ung-gebanya. +20 : Dew : urma : -. +21 : Fog : wunu : -. +22 : Thunder : duyuma : wagel (526). +23 : Lightning : baguma : omba. +24 : Heat, steam : kaman : -. +25 : Sea : wur : -. +26 : Salt water : adabu : ung-onya. +27 : Saltwater creek : kassur : -. +28 : Saltwater swamp : gowada : gawata. +29 : Deep water : mal : -. +30 : Shoal water : gata : -. +31 : Wave : baow : -. +32 : Foam : tsika : -. +33 : High-water : wur pusakuradun (746) : -. +34 : Low-water : wur nuremizinghi : -. +35 : Tide, flood : wur kamizinghi : -. +36 : Tide, ebb : wur nurezinghi : -. +37 : Salt : - : ? bawa. +38 : Fresh water : nuki : epi. +39 : Spring : dana nuki (443) : -. +40 : Well, hole dug in ground : marama : akanya. +41 : Stream of fresh water : bubbu : epitaba (38). +42 : Stream, bed of : kassa : artaba. +43 : Chain of ponds : upu (529) : -. +44 : Land : laga (370) : -. +45 : Sand, sandy beach : butu : aigi. +46 : Island : kowra (455) : unbonya. +47 : Reef : madji : -. +48 : Flat, plain : bowa : -. +49 : Hill, wooded : pada : pada. +50 : Hill, stony : baradi (56) : -. +51 : Ground, soil : apa : ampa. +52 : Mud : barrudder : -. +53 : Mangrove swamp : tugga : -. +54 : Stone, rock : kula, kola : olpa. +55 : Cave, hole in rock : sakai : -. +56 : Any remarkable rock : adi : -. +57 : Cliff : thi : -. +58 : Sandstone : iba-eba : -. +59 : Quartz : us : elpowa. +60 : Pumice : maat : meta. +61 : Ochre, red : parma : anto. +62 : Ochre, yellow : daoma : -. +63 : Fire, wood : mue : yoko. +64 : Flame : buyeli : -. +65 : Smoke : tuo : ekora, ekura. +66 : Ashes : kunur : buro-buro. +67 : Charcoal : burker : onta. +68 : Path : yabu : alka. +69 : Summer, dry season : aibow : -. +70 : Winter, rainy season : kuki* : adara. + +(*Footnote. Also applied to north-west wind then prevailing.) + +71 : Spring and Autumn : malgui : -. +72 : Turtling season : sulangi : -. + +a. MAMMALIA. + +73 : Tail of quadruped : koba : opo. +74 : Bat, large : sapur : -. +75 : Bat, young of : kugi : -. +76 : Bat, harpy : - : tumidumi. +77 : Bat, small : ararapa : mali. +78 : Native cat : - : kute. +79 : Dog : umai : ing-godinya. +80 : Bandicoot : - : walkundunya. +81 : Kangaroo : usur* : epama. + +(*Footnote. The sounds of s and z are wanting in Gudang, and when +occurring in a foreign language are represented by ch or ty. Example: The +Kowrarega words usur = kangaroo, makutz = mouse, surka = megapodius, susu += breasts, if pronounced by a Gudang black are rendered by uchur, +makutcha, tyurka, tyu-tyu.) + +82 : Opossum : barit : -. +83 : Mouse : makutz : makutcha. +84 : Whale : bidu : -. +85 : Dugong : dung-ula : wattei. +86 : Dugong, tail of : sun-na (149) : -. + +b. BIRDS. + +87 : Bird, insect, shell, etc. : ure : wuroi. +88 : Wing : buta : ngaga. +89 : Tail : kupa-luba (478) : kopagoba. +90 : Quill : kai-kai : aikunya, eikunya. +91 : Down : palissa : -. +92 : Nest : padama : untinya (242). +93 : Egg (or of reptile) : kakuru (499) : achina (499). +94 : Eagle : agaleg : -. +95 : Eagle, quill of : baba* (418) : -. + +(*Footnote. Literally the father (of feathers); it is much prized as an +ornament both for the persan and to deck graves with.) + +96 : Hawk : - : kartam. +97 : Owl : - : tuitru. +98 : Goatsucker : biya : ngoko. +99 : Laughing jackass : kowru : unbunya. +100 : Kingfisher, long-tailed : - : quatawur. +101 : Kingfisher, yellow-billed : - : poditti. +102 : Swamp pheasant : - : pura-pura. +103 : Swift : - : ebundyara. +104 : Parson-bird, thrush : - : weya. +105 : Bower-bird : - : yewinya. +106 : Dragoon-bird : - : eipura. +107 : Fork-tailed flycatcher : - : trokaru. +108 : Small thrush : - : chechurri. +109 : Rifle-bird : - : yagunya. +110 : Starling : - : muter. +111 : Wood swallow : - : kartaquiko. +112 : Small flycatcher : - : kopota. +113 : Sun-bird : - : teredirri. +114 : Many small birds : - : inchanya. +115 : Leather-head : quako : kakua. +116 : Black macaw : - : peuntu. +117 : Cockatoo : weama : aira. +118 : Cockatoo, crest of : yelai (493) : -. +119 : Parrot, blue mountain : kerissa : inbere. +120 : Parrot, rosella : - : wong-inya. +121 : Pigeon, white : gainowa : gainowa. +122 : Pigeon, green : waranis : belbucku. +123 : Dove, ground : ku-u-rug : kudrogo. +124 : Dove, green : - : waraba (257). +125 : Cassowary of New Guinea : sam (597) : -. +126 : Emu : - : nichulka. +127 : Brush turkey : raon : araunya. +128 : Megapodius : surka : utema. +129 : Megapodius, mound of : surka pada (49) : -. +130 : Quail : - : gururu. +131 : Native companion : aporega : aporega. +132 : Heron, night : - : wang-go. +133 : Heron, blue : karbai : -. +134 : Heron, white : krem : -. +135 : Godwit : - : ku-urri. +136 : Sandpiper : - : tyuri. +137 : Frigate-bird : - : owmer. +138 : Gull : keki : keake. +139 : Tern : - : chara. +140 : Teal : - : ropagama. +141 : White duck : diggi-diggi : -. + +c. REPTILES. + +142 : Turtle (general) : waru : waru. +143 : Turtle, soft eggs : oebada : -. +144 : Turtle, hawksbill : unao : -. +145 : Turtle, green : sulur : -. +146 : Turtle, logger-head : urza : -. +147 : Turtle, small kind : kidu : waru. +148 : Turtle, fore fin : puye : -. +149 : Turtle, hind fin : suna suro (86). +150 : Turtle, : belly atta : -. +151 : Turtle, back : agu : -. +152 : Tortoiseshell : todi : wanawa. +153 : Frog : kang-gu : kartakutta. +154 : Crocodile : ibara : -. +155 : Lizard, large : gang-ura : murunya. +156 : Lizard, middle-sized : - : rauntinya. +157 : Lizard, small : indyura : dudyuroko. +158 : Snake, brown : karomat : kanurra. +159 : Snake, black : piroan : -. +160 : Snake, green : - : wachi. + +d. FISHES. + +161 : Fish : wawpi : wawpi. +162 : Fin : - : merta. +163 : Tail : mabi : chana. +164 : Breast : pel : -. +165 : Gills : - : ananaji. +166 : Shark : beidum : wandi. +167 : Sting-ray : aona : waki. +168 : Pelates : dzaram : -. +169 : Diacope 8 lineata : tanigi : -. +170 : Scatophagus multifasciatus : karmoi : tora. +171 : Lethrinus : djaga, dyaga : -. +172 : Parrot-fish : bila : uburu. +173 : Mullet : piwer : -. +174 : Whiting (Silago) : kopuru (475 ?) : -. +175 : Flathead : - : tobu. +176 : Freshwater herring : wila : anburo. +177 : Toad-fish : badar (530): -. +178 : Sucking-fish : gapu : -. + +e. INSECTS, ETC. + +179 : Crab, blue : kowturri : paka. +180 : Crab, small : gurba : -. +181 : Crab, large : getalli : getalla. +182 : Crayfish : kayer : lang-gunya. +183 : Beetle, small : - : orona. +184 : Beetle, water : - : neke. +185 : Humble bee : - : boro. +186 : Honey* : utu : untere. + +(*Footnote. This and the next are made by a small stingless bee which +builds its nest in hollow trees.) + +187 : Wax : yerka : alpanya. +188 : Small wasp : garur : elpiri. +189 : Ant-hill and ant : mugu : mong-go. +190 : Ant, bronzed : dupu (532) : -. +191 : Ant, small black : tumi : -. +192 : Ant, green : musu : eipunya. +193 : Ant, large red : kaguda. +194 : Ant, small, white, wood : - : benje. +195 : Cicada : edyena : intere. +196 : Fly : buli : wampa. +197 : Fly, horse (Haematopoda) : burugo : burogo. +198 : Mosquito : iwi : uma, oma. +199 : Butterfly : - : tewinya, tawinya. +200 : Grub in dead wood : oka : etimunya. +201 : Grub in living wood : tolo. +202 : Louse : ari (18) : ako. +203 : Scorpion : idi-idi, diwi : -. +204 : Spider : enti : tamburra. +205 : Worm : kurtur : -. + +f. SHELLS, ETC. + +206 : Cuttlefish : sug-gu : -. +207 : Barnacle on turtle : yetu : yetu. +208 : Clamshell (Tridacna) : miya : miya. +209 : Cyrena : akula : onti. +210 : Oyster : ita : umpeda. +211 : Sanguinolaria : tiki : teki. +212 : Fusus proboscidiferus : boa : mabur. +213 : Melon-shell : alopa : ang-kowa. +214 : Murex : - : weloro. +215 : Egg-cowrie : buboam : -. +216 : Olive : - : waraji. +217 : Ear-shell : - : tepur. +218 : Periwinkle, small : budi : budi. +219 : Periwinkle, large : - : yarawura. +220 : Natica : - : modul. +221 : Auricula judae : - : ngaanbamedi. +222 : Snail, large : - : tetuka. +223 : Snail, small : - : keno. +224 : Coral : yammar (branched) : wardyo-orge (massive). + +g. VEGETABLE PRODUCTIONS. + +225 : Tree (general term) : prue : pure. +226 : Log : watur : -. +227 : Driftwood : bete : -. +228 : Touchwood* and its charcoal : kubi : -. + +(*Footnote. The charcoal used for painting the body is made from this.) + +229 : Small stick : saragi : cheragi. +230 : Bark : purur : rang-a. +231 : Branch : mang : -. +232 : Leaf : nissa : etrara. +233 : Flower : kowsur : erora. +234 : Seed : kawp : -. +235 : Root : quiku (433) : -. +236 : Root, of grass : - : nontya. +237 : Root, of a tree : - : yalida (493 ?). +238 : Seaweed : - : tawar. +239 : Seaweed (food of dugong) : - : purada. +240 : Mushroom : - : achari. +241 : Fern : - : ganda. +242 : Grass : burda : untinya (92). +243 : Grass, coarse : - : bagudda. +244 : Sugarcane : garu : -. +245 : Bamboo : marapi ? : marapi. +246 : Calladium esculentum : bua : -. +247 : Pandanus spiralis : gara : burwa. +248 : Pandanus, cluster of fruit : bom : -. +249 : Pandanus, fruit, singly : abul, abal : -. +250 : Pandanus, kernel : abul dan' (443) : -. +251 : Pandanus pedunculata : kowsar : quatyerra. +252 : Seaforthia palm, large : lulko : akarinya. +253 : Seaforthia palm, small : utu : -. +254 : Caryota palm : - : damaraba. +255 : Rattan : kuchi : -. +256 : Cabbage palm (Corypha) : muru, moro : watu (251 ?). +257 : Coconut : uraba : waraba. +258 : Sago palm of New Guinea : bisi : -. +259 : White lily (Crinum) : ? gurabi : korobo. +260 : Banana : - : katamurra. +261 : Hellenia coerulea* : - : kera-kera. + +(*Footnote. The root of this is eaten raw.) + +262 : Flag (Philydrum) : tagur : dyaimura. +263 : Rush : - : akomba. +264 : Rush, ? (with edible roots) : - : rewino. +265 : Sedge : - : opolga. +266 : Sedge : - : gwanda. +267 : Yam, wild (Dioscorea) : derabu : worng-ura. +268 : Yam, fibrous, (Dioscorea) : kutai : perut. +269 : Yam, (do.) : dawb : -. +270 : Yam, (do.) : sowar : -. +271 : Yam, purple (Convolvulus ?) : bizar : -. +272 : Yam, : sagu : -. +273 : Yam, (Convolvulus ?) : tapan : -. +274 : Sweet-potato : rugabu : -. +275 : Cane (Flagellaria) : buji : budya, bodya. +276 : Dracontium : - : epuanoma. +277 : Fig : - : atara. +278 : Fig, (with large edible fruit) : uguru. +279 : Fig : - : awida. +280 : She-oak (Casuarina) : gaibur : burbura. +281 : Cotton-tree (Cochlospermum) : - : paotu. +282 : Cotton-tree (Bombax) : wapada, goguta : wapada. +283 : Cotton-tree, cotton of : - : maye. +284 : Waterlily (Nymphaea) : ? rumbadi : rumbadi, rombadi. +285 : Wormia alata : - : maartitta. +286 : Cashew nut : dua : leara, liara. +287 : Grevillea : - : yuwurra. +288 : Parinarium : wibu : elari. +289 : Acacia : - : garragurra. +290 : Large bean* : kalapi, kulapi : umpira, umbera. + +(*Footnote. Eaten with Biyu--the produce of a vine-like climber with +legumes a foot in length.) + +291 : Coral-tree (Erythrina) : - : pinura, penura. +292 : Abrus precatorius : timikapul : -. +293 : Blue pea-flower : - : waalkuda. +294 : Mimusops kaukii : ubur : wobar. +295 : Convolvulus (with edible roots) : chawur : atiar. +296 : Vitex macrophylla : - : oroida. +297 : Avicennia tomentosa ? : - : dyang-a. +298 : Scaevola koenigii : dela : dyara. +299 : Mangrove : taga : teang-gunya. +300 : Mangrove : - : korad-da. +301 : Mangrove : kuiyur : inchencheiya. +302 : Mangrove : biyu : biyu. +303 : Tea-tree (Melaleuca) : - : agura. +304 : Tea-tree (Melaleuca) : ubu, wobu : unera. +305 : Tea-tree (Melaleuca) : - : elembi. +306 : Tea-tree (Melaleuca) : - : adoya, aduya. +307 : Gumtree (Eucalyptus) : - : keru. +308 : Apple, red (Eugenia) : kuai : apiga, apega. +309 : Apple, white (Eugenia) : kupa : bang-gadi. +310 : Cherry (Eugenia) : - : arondyi. +311 : Sciadophyllum : - : lang-gula. +312 : Cedar (Cedrela) : - : kerum. +313 : Vine (Cissus) : - : mangko. +314 : Creeper* : wali : -. + +(*Footnote. Used in making one kind of fishing line.) + +315 : Heritiera* : meker : -. + +(*Footnote. The leaf of this rolled up into a cylinder is used to distend +the hole in the lobe of the ear.) + +316 : Tree : passei* : -. + +(*Footnote. Large tree with very light wood used for making outrigger +floats and paddles.) + +317 : Tree : - : ung-kunya. +318 : Tree : sira-sira* : -. + +(*Footnote. The bark of this is made into large fishing lines.) + +319 : Tree : koper : baguntinya. +320 : Resin : yirka* : -. + +(*Footnote. Used in fixing the heads and joints of spears and +throwing-sticks.) + +321 : Bark of which daje is made : mae : -. +322 : Xerotes banksii : walchi : noyo, noyu. +323 : Tobacco : suguba : choka. +324 : Wood, hard, used for spears : - : era. +325 : Wood, soft, used for spears : - : mang-ga. + +2. ARTICLES OF FOREIGN ORIGIN. + +326 : Iron : turika : gere. +327 : Glass, bottle : talpura : talpura. +328 : Gun : tarika : tida. +329 : Axe : aga : aga. +330 : Clothes : dumawk : dumawk. +331 : Hat : - : walapa. +332 : Knife : gi, gi-turik : -. + +3. UTENSILS, ORNAMENTS, WEAPONS, etc. + +333 : Canoe : gul : ang-ganya. +334 : Bow : bua, buai : oimpa. +335 : Stern : menir : kona. +336 : Stern, ornaments of* : - : koikochupa. + +(*Footnote. One central and two lateral poles ornamented with streamers +and feathers.) + +337 : Raised gunwale : bada (530) : bada. +338 : Platform : tamu : tamo. +339 : Netting : sari : chari. +340 : Outrigger poles : togo : togo. +341 : Outrigger float : sarima : charima. +342 : Outrigger float, pegs of : sarim' pati : -. +343 : Paddle : karaba : karaba. +344 : Mast : raba : mulgoburra. +345 : Poles of sails, etc. : suru : malela. +346 : Backstays : buzu : -. +347 : Backstays, grommets on : queada : -. +348 : Sail, mat of any kind : rab'waku (344) waku : abara. +349 : Rope, cable : uro : chichaluro. +350 : Stone for anchor : yadi : -. +351 : Women's covering : awash : -. +352 : Petticoat : daje : -. +353 : Petticoat, band of : wakaow : -. +354 : Petticoat, small : mue-daje : -. +355 : Petticoat, long : urge-daje, tabom : -. +356 : Nose-stick : guba : taiko. +357 : Round shell ornament* : mari : meri. + +(*Footnote. Of the mother-of-pearl shell--worn by a string round the +neck.) + +358 : Small* : dibi-dibi : -. + +(*Footnote. The top of a cone ground flat.) + +359 : Necklace of cordage : soger : -. +360 : Necklace of reeds : - : anchi. +361 : Fillet (general term) : quik'uro (438, 349) : -. +362 : Fillet of mother-of-pearl : - : karakopo. +363 : Armlet, bracelet (general) : musuri : petu. +364 : Armlet, narrow : - : ungkinya. +365 : Armlet, broad : - : maiagu. +366 : Leg ornaments* : maka : puara. + +(*Footnote. Circular, narrow and twisted--worn round the leg above the +calf, from 5 to 30 together. + +367 : Anklet : dana-kuk'uro (443, 438, 349) : -. +368 : Any painting on the body : menara : -. +369 : Camp, camping-place : mudu : -. +370 : Hut : laga (44) : eikuwa. +371 : Windbreak of bushes, etc. : maak : baalkulka. +372 : Basket : li, le : akomi. +373 : Basket, water : lulko (252) : rolko. +374 : Sticks for producing fire : salgai : -. +375 : Oven : ammai : yarte. +376 : Needle (of bone) : saka : -. +377 : Thread : ketal : -. +378 : Tobacco-pipe : suguba-marapi (323, 245) : marapi (245). +379 : Fishing line : ariga : -. +380 : Fish-hook : tudi, todi (152) : neang-gunya. +381 : Stick for digging : pottur : -. +382 : Spear (general) : kalaka : alka (68). +383 : Spear, plain (for fishing) : rada : ainti. +384 : Spear, large, barbed : tuna : tona. +385 : Spear, 3 or 4-headed : taku : tako. +386 : Throwing-stick : kobai : ekara. +387 : Shell handle : - : atara. +388 : Peg at top : kobai piti (386, 446) : ekar' eye (386, 446). +389 : Dugong peg : kuyur : -. +390 : Dugong shaft : wapu : -. +391 : Dugong line : amu : -. +392 : Bow : gugure : -. +393 : Arrow : terig : -. +394 : Gauntlet : kadik : kadik. +395 : Bamboo knife, large : upi : -. +396 : Bamboo knife, small : hupi : -. +397 : Cane loop : sringi : -. +398 : Stone-headed club : bagabogub : -. +399 : Drum : warup : warupa. +400 : Grave : kaga : -. +401 : Cairn of stones : agu : -. + +4. MAN, RELATIONSHIP, ETC. + +402 : Man, white, ghost : markai : umboypu. +403 : Man, black : garkai* : amma. + +(*Footnote. From this is derived garkaije = a tribe, or collection of +men, women, and children.) + +404 : Man, a : turkekai : unbamo. +405 : Man, old : ke'turkekai (625, 405) : -. +406 : Man, young (until married) : kaowquiku (438) : -. +407 : Boy, male child : turkekai kaje (405, 412) : -. +408 : Woman : ipikai (431) : undamo. : - +409 : Woman, old : ke'ipikai (625, 408) : -. +410 : Woman, young (until married) : nerawkai : -. +411 : Girl, female child : ipikai kaje (408, 412) : -. +412 : Child : kaje : ang-gora, ung-kura. +413 : Infant : muggi' kaje (647, 412) : -. +414 : Son : netur kaje (412) : -. +415 : Grandchild : nep : -. +416 : Grandfather : bobata : bobata. +417 : Grandmother : kaieda : kaieda. +418 : Father (or his brother) : baba (addressing him) : epada. +419 : Father : tati* (speaking of him) : -. + +(*Footnote. A father and his brothers are equally represented by this +word: distinctive appellations according to age are indicated by +prefixing the adjectives ke' = great and muggi' = small to tati.) + +420 : Father's sister : rebata : -. +421 : Mother (or her sister) : amma (addressing her) : atinya. +422 : Mother (or her sister) : apu (speaking of her) : -. +423 : Mother brother : adoama : -. +424 : Brother, sister : barabata (if of one sex) : aigodinya elpowa, +intyara. +425 : Brother, sister, addressing them : tukeap (if of different sexes) : +-. +426 : Brother, sister, eldest : kukule. +427 : Brother, sister, second : quiquig. +428 : Brother, sister, third : dadaig. +429 : Brother, sister, fourth, or youngest : kutaig* : -. + +(*Footnote. There may be several of this name at one time, distinguished +by ke' and muggi.) + +430 : Husband : allai : anba. +431 : Wife : ipi : onda. +432 : Father- or mother-in-law : ira : -. +433 : Namesake : nattam : -. +434 : Sweetheart : rugeiga : -. +435 : Friend, associate : keimagi : -. +436 : Term expressing affection : kawki (if male to female) : -. +437 : Term expressing affection : kami (if female to male) : -. + +5. PARTS OF HUMAN BODY, etc. + +438 : Head : quiku : pada. +439 : Head, fore : paru : epunya. +440 : Head, top of : ? quai : -. +441 : Head, back of : quateya : -. +442 : Temples : daka : aintra. +443 : Eye : dana : dana. +444 : Eyelashes : samudana : chamudana. +445 : Eyebrow : beibassam : emeri. +446 : Nose, bill of bird : piti : eye. +447 : Nostrils : ngursaka, karabu (55) : eye'pandya (446, 817). +448 : Hole in septum : piti-tarte (446, 817) : -. +449 : Mouth : guda : angka. +450 : Lips : ira-guda : angka. +451 : Tongue : nai, nei : untara. +452 : Teeth : danga : ampo, ampu. +453 : Cheek : baga : baga. +454 : Chin, lower jaws : ibu : ebu. +455 : Ear : kowra (46) : ewunya, ewonya. +456 : Ear, holes in margin* : kowra tarte (46, 817) : ewunya' pandya +(455, 817). + +(*Footnote. Minute holes all round the margin of the ear, into which +short pieces of stick, grass, etc. are stuck.) + +457 : Ear, pendulous portion : muti : -. +458 : Throat : karta : nanu. +459 : Neck : mudul : yuro. +460 : Shoulder : dzogo : wondo, wontu. +461 : Armpit : narang-i : amunya, amonya. +462 : Upper arm : ? udu : enta, enda. +463 : Elbow : kudulo : yurtu. +464 : Forearm, wrist : udu : terapi. +465 : Hand, finger : geta : arta. +466 : Hand, back : kal : art'onto (465, 476). +467 : Hand, palm : wier : art'apa (465, 477). +468 : Thumb : kaba-geta : -. +469 : Nails (of fingers or toes) and claws of bird : tara : tetur. +470 : Chest : - : rondura. +471 : Breasts : susu : yong-o. +472 : Nipple : susu nur (471) : yong' ampo (471, 452). +473 : Milk : ikai : -. +474 : Belly : maita : -. +475 : Navel : kupar : kopurra. +476 : Back, upper part : kibu : onto. +477 : Back, lower part : kibu : apa. +478 : Hip : kupa : openya. +479 : Thigh : kapi : etena. +480 : Popliteal space : - : ilkanya. +481 : Knee : kulu, kolu : eng-go. +482 : Leg, ankle : tirra, ngar : utronya. +483 : Leg, calf : bru-madu (508) : -. +484 : Shinbone : bru-rida (507) : -. +485 : Foot, toes : kuku : oquarra. +486 : Foot, upper part : - : oquar' onto (485, 476). +487 : Foot, sole : saan : oquar' apa (485, 477). +488 : Heel : pokoko : omo. +489 : Toes : - : dyuro. +490 : Great toe : kei' kuku (625, 485) : -. +491 : Beard : yeta : yeta. +492 : Moustache : guda mageda (449) : yeta. +493 : Hair of head : yal : odye. +494 : Hair of body : - : ang-a. +495 : Hair of groin : mageda : nadula. +496 : Anus : - : opinya. +497 : Penis : ini : achanya. +498 : Scrotum : - : untonya, ngtonya. +499 : Testicles : kakuru : achina. +500 : Pudendum : mada : mon-na. +501 : Skin : purra : equora. +502 : Cicatrices : us : guri. +503 : Cicatrices on shoulder : - : kaimai. +504 : Cicatrices, horned, on breast : sadeo : chedow. +505 : Cicatrices, straight, on breast : - : rondro guri (470, 502). +506 : Cicatrices on belly : - : kopur guri (475, 502). +507 : Bone : rida : atira. +508 : Flesh : madu : egondi. +509 : Fat : idi-idi : bujer. +510 : Vein : kerer : kerur. +511 : Blood : kulka : etyunya. +512 : Heart : nganakapo : epa. +513 : Liver : sibu : -. +514 : Stomach : wera : -. +515 : Intestines : akur : elpe. +516 : Brain : - : urua. +517 : Skull : - : pad' atira (438, 507). +518 : Spine : garu rida (244, 507) : -. +519 : Collarbone : kalum rida (507) : kanulu. +520 : Lungs : saaka (55) : chaka. +521 : Saliva : mawcha : agai. +522 : Tears : nudi : -. +523 : Perspiration : murrag : -. +524 : Dung : - : on-na. +525 : Urine : - : ombo. +526 : Abscess, boil : gaima : oro. +527 : Pus : bagur : -. +528 : Snot, white of an egg : nurse : -. +529 : Blister : upu (43) : kodje. +530 : Sore : bada (337) : unti, anti. +531 : Bunions in old people : kowruta : -. +532 : Ague : dupu (190) : -. +533 : Toothache : dangakikire (452, 635) : -. + +6. PRONOUNS. + +534 : I, me : ngatu* ngai : eipana, yoba. + +(*Footnote. These two sets of personal pronouns are not used +indiscriminately, but the examples of their use which I collected are too +few to generalize upon. However, ngatu and the three next under it, +appear to be used only with a certain class of verbs of which an example +is afforded by the sentence ngatu nudu matumina = I struck him; and the +use of the second set of these pronouns is illustrated by ngai nue (not +ngatu nudu) mulem', etc. = I told him, etc.) + +535 : Thou, thee : ngidu ngi : untoba, doba. +536 : He, him : nudu nue : -. +537 : She, her : nadu na : -. +538 : We two, us two : albei : -. +539 : We, us : arri : aku. +540 : You two : ngipel (593) : -. +541 : You : ngi-tana : -. +542 : They two : pale : -. +543 : They : tana : inyaba. +544 : Me, my : ana* : -. + +(*Footnote. I do not understand the EXACT meaning of this and the two +next, so give an example of each; ana gamu lupeipa = my body is shaking +(or I have the ague): aikeka mule = tell me: nu'abepa chena wir = give +that to him.) + +545 : For myself : ngai-aikeka : -. +546 : For himself : nu'abepa : -. +547 : For ourselves : albi nipa, arri nipa : -. +548 : For themselves : pale nipa, tane nipa : -. +549 : Who? : ngadu, nga : -. +550 : Whose? : nganu : -. +551 : What? : eimi : -. +552 : What? which? : mida : -. +553 : This : ina : -. +554 : This, these : nabing : -. +555 : That, those : chena : noba. +556 : Let us two, shall we two? : aba* : -. + +(*Footnote. Example: aba nudu gasumeipa = let us two seize him.) + +557 : Let us, shall we? : alpa* : -. + +(*Footnote. Example: alpa pongeipa? = shall we sail?) + +558 : Mine : ngow (if a male) udzu (if a female) : -. +559 : Thine : yinu : -. +560 : His : nunue : -. +561 : Her : nanue : -. +562 : Our (dual) : abane (566)* : -. + +(*Footnote. Includes the person addressed: the mother speaking to the +father of their child would say abane kaje = our child.) + +563 : Our (dual) : albeine (538)* : -. + +(*Footnote. Excludes the person addressed: in answer to kaje chena +ngipeine? = is that your child? the father or mother, BOTH BEING PRESENT, +and one pointing to the other, would say to a third person, albeine kaje += the child is ours. These forms are Polynesian also as I have since +found recorded.) + +564 : Our (plural) : arrien : -. +565 : Your (dual) : ngipeine (540) : -. +566 : Your (plural) : ngitanaman (541) (568) : -. +567 : Their (dual) : palaman (542) : -. +568 : Their (plural) : tanaman (543) : -. + +7. NUMERALS. + +569 : One : warapune (580) : epiamana. +570 : Two : quassur : elabaiu. +571 : Three : uquassur-warapune : dama*. + +(*Footnote. After careful investigation I am inclined to think that the +Gudang blacks have no words to express definite numbers beyond three. +Dama is generally used for higher numbers, and occasionally unora.) + +572 : Four : uquassur-uquassur : -. +573 : Five : uquassur-uquassur-warapune : -. +574 : Six : uquassur-warapune-uquassur-warapune : -. +575 : Seven : uquassur-warapune-uquassur-warapune-warapune : -. +576 : Eight : uquassur or ipel uquassur repeated 4 times : -. + +8. ADJECTIVES.* + +(*Footnote. The formation of many adjectives can be clearly traced: in +fact, one of the most obvious features of the language--imperfectly as it +is understood--is the facility with which many nouns may be converted +into either adjectives or verbs. Thus, mapei = a bite, becomes mapeile = +capable of biting, and is the root of the verb mapeipa = to bite. The +positive adjunct leg, and its negative aige (802, 803), are also used to +convert nouns into adjectives: the former follows the same rules as those +before given for forming the plural: gizu = sharpness, becomes either +gizule = sharp, or gizuge = blunt, literally: sharpness-possessing, or, +possessing not : from nuki = water, we get the form nukile maram = the +well contains water, or, nukegi maram = the well is dry: danagi = blind, +literally means, eye-possessing not : as a further example, I may give, +ipikai ajirge wap' ina badale mapeip = the shameless woman eats this +sore-producing fish.) + +577 : Afraid : akan : -. +578 : Alive : danaleg (443, 804) : anading. +579 : All, the whole : muro : -. +580 : Another : wara (569) : inyana. +581 : Ashamed : ajiran (823) : -. +582 : Bad, ugly : wate : -. +583 : Bad-smelling : wate ganule(826) : -. +584 : Bad-tasted : wate mitale (827) : -. +585 : Bald : guele : -. +586 : Bent : balbai : -. +587 : Bitter : tera : -. +588 : Black : kubi-kubi thung (228, 629) : -. +589 : Blind : danagi (443, 804) beagi (when addressing one blind) : -. +590 : Bloody : kulkale (511) : -. +591 : Blunt : dugung, gizuge (824) : -. +592 : Boiling : zurana : -. +593 : Both : ipal, ipel : -. +594 : Blue : mal-tha gamule (29) : -. +595 : Cold : sumai : -. +596 : Cooked : giung (641, 629) : -. +597 : Cylindrical : sam (125) : -. +598 : Dead : uma : etora, etolma. +599 : Deaf : wate kowrare (582, 455) : -. +600 : Dirty : tumitalle (812) : -. +601 : Drowned : sarupa : -. +602 : Dry, dried up : watang : -. +603 : Dumb : keigalein : -. +604 : Faced, pretty : kape parure (612, 439) : -. +605 : Faced, ugly : wate parure (582, 439) : -. +606 : Female : madale (500) : -. +607 : First : kul : -. +608 : Flat : attang : -. +609 : Flooded : budaman : ankgera. +610 : Forbidden, as food : adzar : -. +611 : Forious, vindictive : kerketale (806) : -. +612 : Good, pretty : kape : -. +613 : Good, perfect : min-na : -. +614 : Gorged : kekedi : murko. +615 : Greedy : ubile (816) : -. +616 : Green* : nis-thung (232, 629) : -. + +(*Footnote. There are two forms of each adjective denoting colour, except +grey and white. Thus, black is rendered either kubi-kubi thung, or, +kubi-kubi tha gamule, both meaning like, or, the colour of the charcoal +procured from kubi-kubi = touchwood. Blue, green, and red, are denoted by +compounds signifying resemblance to deep water, a leaf, and blood, +respectively.) + +617 : Grey, any light tint : miakula : -. +618 : Half, part of : tapi : -. +619 : Heavy : mapule (828) : -. +620 : Hollow : muile (685) : -. +621 : How many? : mida kubi (694) : -. +622 : Hungry : weragi (514) : awora, awura. +623 : Itchy : gamuji (807 ?) : -. +624 : Lame : wate ngarare (582, 482) : -. +625 : Large, very : keinga* : intonya. + +(*Footnote. Generally used in its contracted form, as ke or kei : it is +also employed as a prefix to denote the superlative degree: thus, ke' +kamanale = very warm.) + +626 : Last : wagel (22) : -. +627 : Left : kida : etamuna. +628 : Light : turong : -. +629 : Like, the same as : thung* : -. + +(*Footnote. As an example of one of the modes of using this, I find, +gariga thung = like the sun, or, as bright as if daylight. + +630 : Long, high, tall : kulalle, kotalle : -. +631 : Male : inile (497) : -. +632 : Many, plenty : putage, kubi : -. +633 : Noisy : nurile (822) : -. +634 : New, little used : kaining : -. +635 : Painful : kikire : -. +636 : Pregnant : maitaleg (474) : netari. +637 : Putrid : utzai : -. +638 : Quiet : nurage (822, 804) : -. +639 : Red : kulk-thung (511, 629) : -. +640 : Right : mina : metagoma. +641 : Ripe : gi : -. +642 : Rotten, full of holes : - : opera. +643 : Sharp : gizule (824, 802) : ung-garung-gare. +644 : Short, low : tawpei : -. +645 : Sick : soka, sali* : -. + +(*Footnote. These two words appear to have the same meaning, but are used +differently: sok' atchin = sali mizzi, and both express having been +sick.) + +646 : Silent : arage* : -. + +(*Footnote. Arage atzir = become silent, hold your tongue.) + +647 : Small, a few, a portion of : muggingh : embowa. +648 : Soft, spongy, swampy : pirung : -. +649 : Sore-producing : badalle (530, 802) : -. +650 : Sorry : watekum : -. +651 : Sour : terari : -. +652 : Stony : kulalle (54, 802) : -. +653 : Sweet-smelling : kape ganule (612, 826) : -. +654 : Sweet-tasted : g'ru tha mitalle (244, 827) : -. +655 : Thirsty : nuk' enei (38) : -. +656 : Unable : karaweg : -. +657 : Unripe, uncooked : kobaris : -. +658 : Wanton : danule : -. +659 : Warm : kamanalle : imandinya. +660 : Wet : uleig, urge : -. +661 : White : uru : -. +662 : Withered : raji : -. +663 : Worn, old from use : kulbang : -. + +9. ADVERBS, ETC. + +664 : Now, immediately : kaibu : -. +665 : Presently, by-and-bye : tuma-tuma : -. +666 : To-morrow : batteingh : achunya. +667 : Two or three days hence : bang-al : ayere. +668 : A week (or so) hence : mata bang-al (675) : -. +669 : Yesterday : ngul : -. +670 : Two or three days ago : kul : narama. +671 : A week (or so) ago : mata kul (675) : -. +672 : A long time ago : korrekida* : -. + +(*Footnote. Also denotes duration of time, and is = for a long time; it +may also be used as an adjective, as, korrekida gul ina = this is a very +old canoe.) + +673 : Quickly : tari : -. +674 : Slowly : taregi (674, 804) : -. +675 : Constantly, always, only, still : mata* : - + +(*Footnote. Expresses a continuance of the action: gul mata pongeipa = +the canoe is still under sail.) + +676 : Morning : muggi' batteingh : -. +677 : About noon : kei gariga (625, 2) : -. +678 : Afternoon : kut : -. +679 : Hereabouts : kareki : -. +680 : Here : ina* : -. +681 : There : chena* : -. + +(*Footnote. Both are also pronouns: perhaps, when translated as adverbs, +the term equivalent to place is omitted, rendering ina = (in) this +(place) and chena = (in) that (place.)) + +682 : Above, upwards : nakareipa : -. +683 : Below, downwards : malupa (29) : -. +684 : Below, (a very long way) : kara malupa : -. +685 : Inside : muye : -. +686 : Thus, in this manner : keda : keda. +687 : A long way off : kapi taig : -. +688 : Near, close to : logi : -. +689 : Again : laka : -. +690 : Completely, into pieces, etc. : palge : -. +691 : Well, much, etc. : purke : -. +692 : Where? : anaga : -. +693 : Why? : mipa : -. +694 : How, in what manner? : mida : -. +695 : Yes : wa, ua : ia. +696 : No : long-a, giure : untamo. +697 : Don't : wan-nur,* maige (804) : -. + +(*Footnote. I suspect, from the termination, that this is the present +tense of the imperative mood of some verb = to do, to perform, etc.) + +698 : Stop! enough! : china : -. +699 : Exclamation of surprise : ka! ka! ka! : -. +700 : Exclamation to arrest attention : qualli! qualli! (= I say!) : -. +701 : Exclamation of pity : igur (= poor thing!) : -. +702 : And* : ia. + +(*Footnote. Example: uleip' Aburdia, Salallaia, Wagelia, Mania = Aburde +and Salalle and Wagel and Manu are approaching.) + +10. VERBS.* + +(*Footnote. After tabulating 100 Kowrarega verbs in all the different +forms in which they had occurred to me, I yet failed in arriving at a +knowledge of their mode of formation, owing to the deficiency of data on +one hand, and the presence of some apparently defective and irregular +verbs on the other. Still some of the results are worth recording. +Leaving out the consideration of the irregular verbs, I can speak with +certainty of only two Moods, the Indicative and the Subjunctive, of the +Present and the Past (probably really further divisible) Tenses of the +former, and the Present of the latter. As an example I may give the verb +to strike, of which the root is assumed to be matum = a stroke. + +Indicative Present : nudu ngatu : matumeipa = I am striking him. +Indicative Perfect : nudu ngatu : matnmina = I struck him. +Indicative Future : nudu ngatu : matumeipakai = I shall strike him. +Imperative Present : nudu ngidu : matumur = strike him. + +Assuming a root to each, I find 94 of the verbs under examination to +agree in having the present tense of the indicative terminating in pa: of +these 70 end in aipa, 14 in ipa, 6 in epa, and 1 in aipa. + +The perfect tense (setting aside some inexplicable irregularities) +exhibits a great variety of terminations for the formation of which no +rule can yet be given: these are an, ana, ani; in, ina, ima: em, ema; +eima, eiun; and un. + +The future tense alone is perfectly regular; it is simply formed by +adding kai to the present. + +The present tense of the imperative mood in those verbs having the +present of the indicative ending in ipa terminates (with one exception in +i) in ir: in the others the terminations of this tense are ur (the most +frequent); ar (the next in order of frequency), ara, ari; ada, eada; e, +eio, eir, erur; and o. + +After all I am inclined to suppose that the Kowrarega verb, although +apparently complicated, is of simple construction; and that its various +modifications are caused by the mere addition to its root of various +particles, the exact meaning of which (with one exception) is yet +unknown. That exception is the particle aige or ge (804) the mode of +employment of which is shown by the following examples : + +Wawp' yinu ngai purteipaige = I am not eating your fish. +Wawp' yinu ngai purteiunaige = I did not eat your fish. +Wawp' yinu ngai purteipakaige = I shall not eat your fish. +Wawp' nanu ngi purtaige = Don't eat his fish. + +A few examples may be given in illustration of the preceding remarks. + +COLUMN 1: ENGLISH. +COLUMN 2: PRESENT. +COLUMN 3: PAST. +COLUMN 4: FUTURE. +COLUMN 5: IMPERATIVE. + +Eat : purteipa : purteiun : purteipakai : purtar. +Bite : mapeipa : mapana : mapeipakai : mapur. +Take away : meipa : mani : meipakai : mari. +Tell : mulepa : mulem : mulepakai : muleada. +Lie down : yuneipa : yunum : yuneipakai : yunur. +Leave behind : yuneipa : yunem : yuneipakai : yunur. +Shoot : uteipa : utun : uteipakai : utur. +Enter : uteipa : utema : uteipakai : uterur.) + +703 : Word implying motion : ngapa* : -. + +(*Footnote. This is a word which from the variety of its modes of +application long puzzled me. Careful examination of sentences in which it +occurred led to the following results. 1. It may be used as an +independent word to denote motion towards the speaker, the pronoun which +would otherwise be required being omitted. Example: adur = go out, but +ngap' adur = come out (towards the speaker), lak' ngapa = to come again, +to return. 2. It is also used as a postfix to denote motion towards the +object to which it is joined. Example: laga' p'(ngapa) aiyewel = come to +the hut, mue' pa teir = throw it into the fire. 3. It is used in a third +sense. Example: wawpi 'pa = to go fishing, kaba 'pa = to go to a dance. +4. It is often used as an equivalent to give me, the hand being held out +at the same time, Example: ngapa = let it come to me.) + +704 : Bail : salpumeipa : -. +705 : Be affected with : ameipa* : -. + +(*Footnote. Apparently a contraction of ana and meipa. Example: ana +kobaki ameipa = (literally) me cough affects, or I have a cough. The word +mizzi, the exact meaning of which is unknown to me, is also used to +express the same thing. Example: quiku kikire ana mizzi = I have a sick +head, or a headache.) + +706 : Become : atzipa : -. +707 : Bite : mapeipa : -. +708 : Bore a hole : tartepaleipa (817, 722) : -. +709 : Break (as a stick) : tideipa aterumbanya. +710 : Break wind backwards : - : penyaka. +711 : Build (as a hut) : mideipa (369 ?) : -. +712 : Bury, plant, sow : maramateipa (40, 791) : -. +713 : Call for : tureipa : untandurra. +714 : Carry, hold : ang-eipa : -. +715 : Choose, select : yapepa : -. +716 : Climb : waleipa : oquagamurra. +717 : Come here : pateipa, aiyewel : -. +718 : Come, approach : uleipa : impebino. +719 : Cook : gia paleipa (641 ?) : -. +720 : Copulate : lameipa : erorunya. +721 : Cover over : abeipa : -. +722 : Crush, pound with a stone : paleipa : akelgurra. +723 : Cry, howl like a dog : maierchipa : rong-gung-ga-murra. +724 : Cut : labaipa : utedung-gurra. +725 : Dance : kaba mineipa (811) : unchigulkamurra. +726 : Die : dadeipa : -. +727 : Dig : pideipa : -. +728 : Dive : penneipa : -. +729 : Dream : piki lalkeipa* (813, 755) : -. + +(*Footnote. The pronoun ana is always used with this. Example: ana piki +lalkar = I had a dream.) + +730 : Drink : wanipa : ung-gen-ga. +731 : Drown : delupeipa : -. +732 : Dry up : wata' pateipa (602) : -. +733 : Eat : purteipa, pratipa : atedurra. +734 : Enter (going out of sight) : uteipa : -. +735 : Fall down : pudeipa : -. +736 : Fill (with solids) : wangepa : -. +737 : Fill (with fluids) : maleipa (29) : -. +738 : Find : imeipa : angkanya. +739 : Finish (men's work) : min' atzipa (613, 706) : -. +740 : Finish (women's work) : palpagipa : -. +741 : Feces, to void : - : anabichung-ar. +742 : Forget : kekochipa : -. +743 : Get up : winipa : amamung-i. +744 : Give : pibeipa, wiepa* : utera. + +(*Footnote. Ana is used with pibeipa only; the exact meaning of both is +to bestow, or cause the transfer of ownership; the actual HANDING OVER of +anything would be asked for by ngapa = let it come here, holding out the +hand at the same time, but this last may presume merely inspection or +temporary use of the article.) + +745 : Go away : udzaripa : einpira. +746 : Go out, perforate : adeipa : -. +747 : Go out (as a fire) : utsimeipa : -. +748 : Hear, understand : krangipa : -. +749 : Hide, conceal : muye teipa (685, 791) : -. +750 : Jump, leap : katapulgipa : ralkagamurra. +751 : Kick : kukuna mapeipa (485, 707) : -. +752 : Kill : dadeima matameipa (598, 786) : -. +753 : Laugh : gi waleipa (819) : ung-garung-gari. +754 : Leave behind : yuneipa : -. +755 : Lie : lalkeipa (820) : -. +756 : Lie down : yuneipa : -. +757 : Make (men's work) : tatureipa : -. +758 : Make (women's work) : umeipa : -. +759 : Make a fire : muekemeipa : -. +760 : Paddle : karaba tapeipa (343, 787) : untyendyurra : -. +761 : Pull, drag : yuteipa : -. +762 : Rain : ari pudeipa (18, 735) : -. +763 : Return : mang-epa : -. +764 : Rise (as the sun) daneipa : -. +765 : Run* : - : ringa. + +(*Footnote. In Kowrarega, the action of running is expressed by the +adverb tari = quickly, and the verb uleipa = to approach: Example: ngapa +tari uleipa expresses quick motion TOWARDS the speaker, and tari uleipa +quick motion FROM the speaker.) + +766 : Sail : pong-eipa : reng-gamurra. +767 : Scold : ideipa : inyamung-urra. +768 : Scrape hands* : getapudeipa (465, 735) : -. + +(*Footnote. A mode of salutation practised throughout Torres Strait, and +occasionally at Cape York.) + +769 : Scratch, pinch : musiteipa : -. +770 : See, look after, watch : yaweipa : -. +771 : Sew : tarpeipa : belkagur. +772 : Shake : lupeipa : -. +773 : Sharpen : gizu paleipa (824, 722) : -. +774 : Shave : piniteipa : angkarung-gurra (449, 450). +775 : Shoot (with gun or bow) : uteipa : -. +776 : Seize, press, squeeze : gasumeipa : gipaburra. +777 : Sing : sagul piyepa (818) : -. +778 : Sleep : ute-ipa (825) : eremadin. +779 : Smoke : suguba wanipa (323, 730) : -. +780 : Sit down : tanureipa : engka. +781 : Speak, tell : mulepa : ekalkamurra. +782 : Spear, sting : pageipa : -. +783 : Stand : kadi (irregular) : -. +784 : Stand up : kadi tanure (783) : -. +785 : Steal : krameipa : -. +786 : Strike : matumeipa : untondunya. +787 : Swim : tapeipa : rolma, rulma. +788 : Take away : meipa : -. +789 : Tear : ladeipa : -. +790 : Thirst : nukineipa (655) : -. +791 : Throw into : teipa : umpanya. +792 : Tie : kunumeipa : -. +793 : Touch : tareipa : abeang-gang-urra. +794 : Turn over : tarteipa : -. +795 : Unloose, untie : ideipa : -. +796 : Waken : welmeipa : -. +797 : Wash : garwulgeipa : -. +798 : Water, make : ing-uje (irregular) : -. +799 : Wound : umaliza matumeipa (598, 786) : -. +800 : Wrap round, coil, twist : nureipa : -. + +11. MISCELLANEOUS. + +801 : Affix expressing article spoken of : dza* : -. + +(*Footnote. Example: Nabi'dza = this thing.) + +802 : Affix expressing possession : leg* : -. + +(*Footnote. Leg or le, is to be possessed of, and, when used +independently, is placed after the noun which it refers to: ngai 'quassur +daje leg = I have two petticoats; ngi kutai leg? = have you (any) yams?) + +803 : ---- : ki* : -. + +(*Footnote. The meaning of this is to a certain extent doubtful; however +it enforces an affirmation: Example: ina muggi' ki = this is VERY little +: it is frequently used after pronouns: Example: arri ki kabspakai = we +SHALL go to the dance.) + +804 : Affix of negation : aige* : -. + +(*Footnote. Being the negative of leg, or le, as formerly stated, aige, +or ge = to have not: Example: ngai kalak' aige = I have no spears; nga +ajir'ge = she has no shame.) + +805 : Any small article : zapu (fish-hook, etc.) : -. +806 : Anger, rage : kerket : -. +807 : Body of any creature : gamu : -. +808 : Cold : sumein : ekanba (? to shiver). +809 : Cough : kobaki : ulgene. +810 : Crack : pis : -. +811 : Dance : kaba : -. +812 : Dirt : tumit : -. +813 : Dream : piki : -. +814 : Dust in the eye : - : lopicha. +815 : Food : aidu* : -. + +(*Footnote. As examples of various forms of this word, I may give, ana +pibur aidu = give me (some) food: ina aio? = is this eatable? ai = it is +eatable.) + +816 : Greediness : ubi : -. +817 : Hole : tarte : apandya. +818 : Joke : sagul : -. +819 : Laughter : gi (641) : -. +820 : Lie : lalkai : -. +821 : Name : nel : -. +822 : Noise : nur : -. +823 : Shame : ajir : -. +824 : Sharpness : gizu : -. +825 : Sleep : ute : -. +826 : Smell : ganu : -. +827 : Taste : mita : -. +828 : Weight : mapu : -. + +12. NAMES OF PERSONS. + + +Males, Number 1 : Piaquai : Paida. +Males, Number 2 : Manu : Tumagugu. +Males, Number 3 : Wagel (626) : Waga. +Males, Number 4 : Salalle : Kuri. +Males, Number 5 : Boruto : Chamida (444). +Males, Number 6 : Gabua : Puroma. +Females, Number 1 : Aburde : Mamulla. +Females, Number 2 : Seibai : Ganulle. +Females, Number 3 : Yeza : Baki. + +... + +NATIVE NAMES OF PLACES IN TORRES STRAIT AND NEIGHBOURHOOD OF CAPE YORK. + +Mount Adolphus Island : Morilaga. +Mount Adolphus Hill : Begunkutche. +Small island to northward : Quiquichaga. +Island North-West from Mount Adolphus, larger : Wagilwane. +Island North-West from Mount Adolphus, smaller : Budye. +Rock South-East from ditto : Akoine. +Rock a : Kolapitchum. +The Brothers : Kurobi. +North Brother : Tarakar. +Albany Island : Pabaju. +Albany Island, north point : Tarung-i. +Bush Island : Marte. +Tree Island : Moebamunne. +North-East Point of Albany Island : Tolodinya. +Albany Rock : Manurre. +Albany Rock, islet East by South : Takunya. +Albany Rock, South-East : Eikoa. +York Island (Cape York) : Wamilag. +Eborac Island : Dyara. +Mount Bremer : Charua. +Evans Point : Maodinya. +Sextant Rock : Delua. +Beach at Evans Bay : Podaga. +Bramble Hill : Duyemil-pada. +South-East point of Evans Bay : Chechuri. +Ida Island : Robumo. +Beach East from Mew River : Paiera. +Beach East from Mew River, hill behind : Pochinya. +Bishop Point : Qualulga. +Osnaburg Point : Kalalurri. +Beach West from Cape York : Eintrang-o. +Islet West by South : Purang-i. +Peak Point : Karubowra. +Possession Island : Bedanug. +Woody Island, larger : Kei' Yellubi. +Woody Island, smaller : Muggi' Yellubi. +Entrance Island : Juna. +Entrance Island, islet to North-West : Cheruko. +Entrance Island, islet to West-South-West : Pipa. +Islet on East side of Port Lihou : Tarilug. +Islet off Port Lihou : Dumaralug. +West Prince of Wales Island : Muralug. +Cape Cornwall and neighbourhood : Morurpure. +Beach on West side of Port Lihou : Daaka. +Creek opposite Pipa and vicinity : Yet. +Beach on North-East side of Muralug : Marin. +Thursday Island : Gealug. +Black Rock : Gi'omanalug. +Green Island : Piwer. +Goode Island : Peilalug. +Goode Island, rocks on reef near this : Ipile. +Hammond Island : Keiriri. +Hammond Island, Rock : Adi. +Friday Island : Weibene. +East Prince of Wales Island : Narupai. +Horned Hill : Dyugubai. +Wednesday Island : Mowrurra. +Strait Island, larger : Kei Kudulug. +Strait Island, smaller : Muggi Kudulug. +Travers Island : Mukunaba. +Double Island : Nellgi. +Mount Ernest : Nagir. +Mount Ernest, islet next this : Pinakar. +Pole Island : Getullai. +Burke Island : Suaraji. +Banks Island, high portion : Mua. +Banks Island, low : Ita. +Mulgrave Island : Badu. +Hawkesbury Island : Warara. +Tobin, or North Possession Island : Kulbi. +Sue Island : Waraber. +Murray Island, largest : Mer. +Murray Island, middle : Dowar. +Murray Island, smallest : Wayer. +Darnley Island : Errub. +Nepean Island : Eddugor. +Stephens Island : Ugar. +Campbell Island : Zapker. +Dalrymple Island : Dzamud. +Keats Island : Umagur. +York Island, larger : Massid. +York Island, smaller : Kudala. +Bourke Isles, westernmost : Owrid. +Bourke Isles, northernmost : Purem. + +... + + +APPENDIX 2. + +COMPARATIVE VOCABULARY OF THREE OF THE LANGUAGES OF THE SOUTH-EAST COAST +OF NEW GUINEA AND THE LOUISIADE ARCHIPELAGO. + +The materials composing the following Vocabulary are arranged in three +columns, according to the localities where they were obtained. + +1. Redscar Bay (on the South-East coast of New Guinea, in latitude 9 +degrees 17 minutes South and longitude 146 degrees 53 minutes East) and +its neighbourhood. + +2. Brumer Island (on the South-East coast of New Guinea, in latitude 10 +degrees 45 minutes South and longitude 150 degrees 22 minutes East) and +its neighbourhood; also Dufaure Island (about 40 miles to the westward). +When the same word was given at both these places, I have indicated this +circumstance by the letter b placed after the word; those procured at +Dufaure Island only are marked by the letter D. + +3. Brierly Island (Louisiade Archipelago, in latitude 11 degrees 20 +minutes South and longitude 153 degrees 9 minutes East); also a few +words, distinguished by the letter D, procured at the Duchateau Isles +from natives of some neighbouring islands of the Calvados Group. + +COLUMN 1: ENGLISH. +COLUMN 2: REDSCAR BAY. +COLUMN 3: BRUMER ISLANDS. +COLUMN 4: LOUISIADE. + +1. NATURAL OBJECTS. + +Sky : - : garewa : buru-buru. +Sun : diina* : mahana (b) : parai, parei. + +(*Footnote. Since reading Dr. Latham's remarks, I am inclined to suppose +that in this vocabulary the common termination na is often no part of the +word, but merely a contraction of the relative pronoun = this (is).) + +Cloud : - : budi-budi : -. +Moon : - : nowarai : -. +Wind : - : - : wiego. +Salt water : dawara, davara : arita (b) : soga. +Surf : - : bagodu : -. +Fresh water : ranu : goila (b) : wawei (D). +Sand : - : gera-gera : kera-kera. +Earth : - : batan : -. +Stone, rock : nati : weu, veu (b) : pak. +Cliff : - : padi-padi : -. +Quartz : - : karitao : -. +Obsidian : - : nabuka (b) : -. +Fire : lahi, rahi : kaiwa (b) : hiwo. + +a. Mammalia. + +Tail (of a dog) : - : derena : -. +Dog : sisia : wanuhe, daiasi : geiwo. +Pig : buroma : tuana, bawa (D) : bobo. +Opossum (Cuscus) : mowra, bowra : - : -. + +b. Birds. + +Bird : - : - : maan. +Wing : - : mabena, pepena : -. +Bill : - : esuna, kawana : -. +Feather : iduar : daguri : sao-sa. +Hornbill : pawporo : - : -. +White cockatoo : karai : rorowa : -. +Nicobar pigeon : - : korauto : -. +Cassowary : - : tyuaburo : -. +Noddy : - : maga : -. + +c. Reptiles. + +Green turtle : matabudi : wawnu : -. +Eggs : momo : - : -. +Shell : nakeme : - : -. +Hind flipper : ai : - : -. +Tortoise-shell : kipore, gebore : koma-koma : -. +Large lizard : - : makara : -. +Water-snake : - : mata : -. + +d. Fishes. + +Fish : - : yama : yeimai. +Bone : - : - : bebai. +Fry of a Caranx : - : - : muwota. +Mailed-perch : - : beirawa : -. + +e. Insects, etc. + +Sand-crab (Ocypoda) : - : gagaruki : -. +Small crab (Grapsus etc.) : - : karagi : wallo-quallo. +Fly : - : wuro-uro : -. +Butterfly : - : bebi : bebi (= moth). + +f. Shells, etc. + +Cuttle-fish bone : - : - : weinaga. +Nautilus : - : were-werigwa : -. +Ear-shell : - : woka-woka : -. +Snail : - : nin-nu : -. +Scarabus : - : wadiwa : -. +Small cowrie : - : - : dinga-dinga. +Small cowrie, white : - : mawto : -. +Egg-cowrie : lokol : dunari (b), dunai : du-ong-a. +Cypraea mauritiana : - : guna : -. +Arca : - : - : emoyamo. +Cyrena : keva : kiwai : -. +Cockle : - : kasepin. +Donax : - : bogadob (D) : -. +Pearl-oyster : meili : kepo, immaro : kepo. +Barnacle : - : - : tuwaraga. +Coral : - : puduri, buduri : sangoken = branched. + +g. Vegetable Productions. + +Wood : au : kaiwa : hiwo. +Charcoal, black paint : uma : dum : -. +Leaf : - : - : taiyu = yam leaf. +Grass : - : yawa-yawada : wirmwir. +Sea-weed : - : - : baan. +Tree : - : madyu : -. +Scented-herb : mura-mura : mura (b), kamura : -. +Yellow-flowered plant : - : - : tao-ta. +Erythrina indica : - : yowra : -. +Casuarina : - : - : dai. +Mangrove : - : - : tu-onga. +Coconut and tree : niu : niu (b) : pogia, niu (D). +Pandanus : - : duya : elegeli. +Areca-nut : - : beda (b) : ereka. +Banana : ani : kassaig, betu and beta (D) : pai-pai (D). +Bread-fruit : kunune : -. +Calladium esculentum ? : - : abaiya : piya = plant, poya = tuber, pihia +(D). +Yam : - : quateya : daha. +Nodulated tuber : - : - : saiwe. +Small yam-like tuber : - : nare : -. +Betel pepper : - : gugu, rugu = fruit, peipai = leaf (D) : -. +Mango : waiwai : gishoa : -. +Yellow plum : - : baowyobi : -. +Fig : - : baware : -. +Sugar-cane : - : garu : mon-mon (D). +Ginger : - : monewa : -. +Amaranth : - : popori : -. +Flax : - : yimone, taoc (D). + +2. ARTICLES OF FOREIGN ORIGIN. + +Iron : - : ropo-ropo (b) : kellumai. +Clothing : - : quama : -. + +3. UTENSILs, ORNAMENTS, WEAPONS, ETC. + +Catamaran : - : daow, raow : -. +Catamaran, lashing : - : owisu : -. +Canoe : wanagi : waga (b) : waga. +Bow : kura-kuro : - : hebagi. +Figure-head : - : - : tabura. +End-board : - : - : baragai, baragaiwi (D). +Stern : tareiya : - : waga-pakena. +Sides : - : - : badai, badaha (D). +Outrigger float : darima : sarima (D) : sama. +Diagonal supports : - : tuturi (D) : patuma. +Outrigger poles : ilava : sai-ira, and saeya (D) : maga, hemaga (D). +Lashing of poles : - : mamadi (D) (twisted) : wari (plain). +Pole along gunwale : eiwara : - : -. +Platform : - : - : piri-piritele. +Mast : aiwar (= masts) : - : mamarang. +Poles supporting mast : - : - : tuowo, towa (D). +Sticks across sail : - : - : pokiwi. +Sail : geda : doro : badiara, tun (D). +Rope (of bark) : panaow : barrai, barawara (D) : baiawa. +Streamers of pandanus leaf : - : - : kevara. +Paddle : hawte, hawta : wosi, reha (D) : patoma and lewa (D). +Bailer, wooden : dihu : aruma : -. +Bailer, shell : - : heko = ? melon shell (D) : -. +Hut : mahuta : maia : yuma. +Posts : - : - : kawkola. +Shelves on posts : - : - : gaga-gila. +Wooden pillow : - : unua (D) : -. +Earthen pot : uro : gudawa : uya. +Earthen saucer : nau : - : -. +Netted bag : vaina : hiwa : -. +Basket, round : - : kira-kira (b) : -. +Basket, small : - : - : nabo. +Petticoat : erua : noge (b) : -. +Breech-cloth, mat : - : daam : -. +Cloth of bark : - : - : watu : -. +Girdle, common : siehi (of tapa cloth) : turi-turi, toru. +Girdle, rattan : barikue, ue (D) : -. +Comb : tuari : suari (b) : sugo. +Nose-stick : mukora : wanipa : bubusi-yana. +Earring : - : kuratana (b) : puritana. +Plug in lobe of ear : - : beya : batiwan. +Queue : - : doyo : -. +Armlet, woven : kaana : sia-sia, harimani (b) : -. +Armlet, shell, solid : - : akassi : hiwe = Trochus niloticus. +Armlet, shell, of 3 pieces : popo (b) : -. +Armlet, rattan : - : wewessi : -. +Breast ornament Number 1 : kawko : - : -. +Breast ornament Number 2 : koiyu : - : -. +Necklace of small seeds : - : digo-digota : -. +Necklace of black seeds : - : ganogar, gudu-gudu (b) : -. +Necklace of dog's teeth : - : gugadoi : -. +Necklace of teeth and seeds : - : moka-moka : -. +Paint, black : - : garoka, garoa : -. +Paint, red : pai-ira : sabe : -. +Lime for betel-chewing : - : harigyu (b) : hawi. +Spatula : - : gahi : giang. +Bamboo knife : katiwa : - : -. +Stone-headed axe : kiram (also kelam* green jade) : -. + +(*Footnote. Also the stone which heads it--probably the origin of +kelumai, understood to mean iron, or any iron implement, as an axe.) + +Fish-hook : - : aowri (b) : - : -. +Seine : - : nine, tine : puakan. +Floats : - : uyawa : kuoto. +Wooden sword : - : kerepa (b) : kirapa. +Snout of saw-fish : - : gari-gari : -. +Shield : - : rigoane : -. +Club, wooden : - : putu-putu : -. +Club, stone-headed : kahi : - : -. +Spear of any kind : iyu : - : -. +Spear, fishing : - : kari : -. +Spear, plain : - : - : hemera. +Spear, polished : - : wawmerri : wama, manutu. +Spear, sword-pointed : arahia : -. +Spear, bamboo : - : - : didib (? = bamboo). +Bow : pewa : - : -. +Arrow : diba : - : -. +Drum : - : baiatu, boyatu (D) : -. +Conch : - : wage (Cassis or Triton) : -. +Pandean pipes : - : wererri : -. +Musical reed : - : bogigi : -. + +4. MAN, RELATIONSHIP, ETC. + +Man : tau : tau : -. +Woman : ahine : sinadaow : daina, winakao. +Father : ? tama : sibawa : -. +Mother : - : ? bode : -. +Brother : - : boe, ? nigerra : -. +Sister : - : wadaiya : -. +Son : ? natu : ? yowboe : -. +Child, boy : mero : - : -. +Friend, adopted brother : - : damagai : -. + +5. PARTS OF HUMAN BODY, ETC. + +Head : quara : - : -. +Forehead : bagu : debada (b) : debada. +Top of head : tubua : - : -. +Back of head : ketu : - : -. +Temples : abati : - : -. +Eye : mata : matada : matara. +Eyelashes : auna, mata-una : matasinowa : matara pulupulura. +Eyebrow : bunimata : baia : -. +Nose : udu : ishuda (b) : bubusi, bushuda (D). +Nostril : - : - : bushuda-goina. +Mouth : mao : - : -. +Lips : pipina : sopada (b) : sepada. +Tongue : mata : mimenada, manada (D) : mimiada. +Teeth : isi : makada, mokada (b) : yingeda, yingida, nenin and nini (D). +Cheek : meta : paparida : yamada. +Chin : ate : laiagaiada : sewelida. +Ear : taiya : beadawa, teinada (D) : batida. +Throat : kato : garagaroda : dumuada. +Back of neck : - : omda : -. +Shoulder : paga : debearuda, daharada (D) : nemada. +Armpit : - : - : chigirida. +Upper arm : howow : - : nemada. +Elbow : diu : mimassiuda, nimasiuda (D) : nemurrapupli, paokona. +Fore-arm : ima : monaga = arm : nemada. +Hand : ima : nimada : nemada. +Hand, back of : - : murina : -. +Hand, palm of : - : karokarona : -. +Finger : dodori, wakiri : nimada gigida : nemadagigina. +Finger : dodori, wakiri: nima garada (D) : nima gigina (D). +Finger, little : pakeriga : - : -. +Thumb : chinapata, sinabadu : - : -. +Nails : kau : gibuda, nima gibuda (D) : kapuruna. +Sides : - : - : diyuda = ? ribs. +Breasts : rata : - : pididida (in man). +Nipple : rata : susuga, tyutyuda : -. +Belly : - : bogada : kineida. +Navel : hudu : poasida : pusuana. +Back : - : dagearada : muida, muina. +Hip : piya : pampada, uripunana. +Thigh : mamu : gotuda : -. +Knee : tui : turida : paoko. +Leg and ankle : dok : - : -. +Leg, calf of : - : kaibira, haibira : -. +Foot : - : kaida, goguda (D) : gegeda. +Heel : - : - : ujuna. +Beard : - : garagarada (b), gagaeda : baas. +Hair of head : hui : kuruda (b) : huluda. +Penis : usi: - : -. +Scrotum : abu : - : -. +Pudendum : konu : - : -. +Tattooing : kerawera, kevareva : yatuya, kurikuri, and kurimani (D) : -. +Blood : - : - : madibana. +Collarbone : - : - : bongida. +Jawbone : - : - : sewe. +Saliva : kanudi : - : walahai. +Dung : nian : - : tai. +Boil : - : bonu : -. +Leprosy : - : warilya (D) : -. + +6. PRONOUN. +This : ena : aena, aina : -. + +7. NUMERALS. + +One : owtamona, ta : teya (b) : paihetia*. + +(*Footnote. The numerals procured at the Duchateau Isles in January, +1850, are very different: One = etega, Two = erua, Three = eton, Four = +epate, Five = nemara-panu, Ten = erute.) + +Two : owrua, rua : labui (b) : pahiwo. +Three : owtoi, toi : haiyona (b) : paihetuan. +Four : owhani, hani : haasi (b) : paihepak. +Five : owima, ima : harigigi (b) : paihelima. +Six : owtaratoi, towratoi : harigigi-karimoga : paihewona. +Seven : owkuta, hitu : harigigi-labui : paikepik. +Eight : owtarahani, towrahani : harigigi-haiyona : paihewan. +Nine : owsa, taa : harigigi-haasi : paihesiwo. +Ten : adarata, wauta : saorudoi (b) : paiheawata. +Eleven : - : - : paiheawata-paihetia. +Twelve : - : - : paiheawata-pahiwo. +Fifteen : - : saorudoi-harigigi : -. +Nineteen : - : saorudoi-harigigi-haasi : paiheawata-paihesiwo. +Twenty : ---- ruahui : taoi-mate : -. +Twenty-five : - : talabushi-mate : -. +Thirty : ---- toyahui : towkarimoga-mate : -. +Thirty-one : - : towkarimoga-mate-karimoga : -. + +8. ADJECTIVES. + +Another : - : nessao (b) : -. +More : patana : sagu : -. + +9. ADVERBS, ETC. + +Yes : - : ewa : -. +No, I have not, will not : - : nige : -. +No, I won't, don't! : laasi : besi (b) : -. +Presently, by and bye : - : tabu (h) : tabu. +Exclamations of surprise and astonishment : - : ao-o-o : -. +Exclamations of surprise and astonishment : - : dim-dim : -. + +10. VERBS. + +Break (a stick) : udumuan : - : -. +Come away : - : kurhama (D) : -. +Cough : huwa : oso (D) : keli-keli. +Cry : tai : - : -. +Dive : hetai : - : -. +Eat, eat it : - : oquai : -. +Give, give me : mahi : ureama (b) : -. +Go away, go back : - : - : tadubi. +Laugh : kiri : tanuwaraha : -. +Paddle : oawde : ow-wassi (b) : -. +Rise up : - : kotoro : -. +Sing : - : pediri (D) : -. +Sit down : - : kumturi : -. +Sleep : mahuta : - : -. +Sneeze : - : tatino (D) : -. +Strike (with fist) : hela : - : -. +Swim : nahu : - : -. +Whistle : - : ino : -. + +11. MlSCELLANEOUS. + +Expressing friendship : - : magasugo (b) : -. +This is called : - : taina esana : -. + +12. NAMES OF PERSONS. + +Males, Number 1 : Woro : Ihara : Wadai. +Males, Number 2 : Iripa : Nubaida : Maho. +Males, Number 3 : Kari (father and son) : Tubuda : Hewawo. +Males, Number 4 : Baguya : Eratao : Mao. +Females, Number 1 : - : Lataoma, Konaia (D) : -. +Females, Number 2 : - : Narumai, Tatarai (D) : -. +Females, Number 3 : - : Haraobi, Bonarua (D) : -. +Females, Number 4 : - : Perodi : -. +Females, Number 5 : - : Gubetta : -. + +... + + +APPENDIX 3. + +REMARKS ON THE VOCABULARIES OF THE VOYAGE OF THE RATTLESNAKE, BY R.G. +LATHAM, M.D. + +In the way of comparative philology the most important part of the +Grammar of the Australian languages is, generally, the Pronoun. That of +the Kowrarega language will, therefore, be the first point investigated. + +In the tongues of the Indo-European class the personal pronouns are +pre-eminently constant, i.e., they agree in languages which, in many +other points, differ. How thoroughly the sound of m runs through the +Gothic, Slavonic, and Iranian tongues as the sign of the pronoun of the +first person singular, in the oblique cases; how regularly a modification +of t, s, or th, appears in such words as tu, su, thou, etc! Now this +constancy of the Pronoun exists in most languages; but not in an equally +palpable and manifest form. It is disguised in several ways. Sometimes, +as in the Indo-European tongues, there is one root for the nominative and +one for the oblique cases; sometimes the same form, as in the Finlandic, +runs through the whole declension; sometimes, as when we say you for thou +in English, one number is substituted for another; and sometimes, as when +the German says sie for thou, a change of the person is made as well. +When languages are known in detail, these complications can be guarded +against; but where the tongue is but imperfectly exhibited a special +analysis becomes requisite. + +Generally, the first person is more constant than the second, and the +second than the third; indeed, the third is frequently no true personal +pronoun at all, but a demonstrative employed to express the person or +thing spoken of as the agent or object to a verb. Now, as there are +frequently more demonstratives than one which can be used in a personal +sense, two languages may be, in reality, very closely allied, though +their personal pronouns of the third person differ. Thus the Latin ego = +Greek ego; but the Latin hic and ille by no means correspond in form with +os, auto, and ekeinos. This must prepare us for not expecting a greater +amount of resemblance between the Australian personal pronouns than +really exists. + +Beginning with the most inconstant of the three pronouns, namely, that of +the third person, we find in the Kowrarega the following forms: + +3. + +Singular, masculine : nu-du = he, him. +Singular, feminine : na-du = she, her. +Dual, common : pale = they two, them two. +Plural, common : tana = they, them. + +In the two first of these forms the du is no part of the root, but an +affix, since the Gudang gives us the simpler forms nue and na. Pale, the +dual form, occurs in the Western Australian, the New South Wales, the +South Australian, and the Parnkalla as foIlows: boola, bulo-ara, purl-a, +pudlanbi = they two. + +2. + +Singular : ngi-du = thou, thee. +Dual : ngi-pel = ye two, you two. +Plural : ngi-tana = ye, you. + +Here the root is limited to the syllable ngi, as shown not less by the +forms ngi-pel, and ngi-tana, than by the simple Gudang ngi = thou. + +Ngi, expressive of the second person, is common in Australia: ngi-nnee, +ngi-ntoa, ni-nna, ngi-nte = thou, thee, in the Western Australian, New +South Wales, Parnkalla, and Encounter Bay dialects. + +Ngi-pel is probably thou + pair; a priori this is a likely way of forming +a dual. As to the reasons a posteriori they are not to be drawn wholly +from the Kowrarega tongue itself. Here the word for two is not pel but +quassur. But let us look further. The root p-l, or a modification of it, += two in the following dialects; as well as in the Parnkalla and others: +pur-laitye, poolette, par-koolo, bull-a, in the Adelaide, Boraipar, +Yak-kumban, and Murrumbidge. That it may stand too for the dual personal +pronoun is shown in the first of these tongues; since in the Adelaide +language purla = ye two. Finally, its appearance amongst the pronouns, +and its absence amongst the numerals, occurs in the Western Australian. +The numeral two is kardura; but the dual pronoun is boala. The same +phenomenon would occur in the present English if two circumstances had +taken place, namely, if the Anglo-Saxon dual wi-t = we two had been +retained up to the present time amongst the pronouns, and the word pair, +brace, or couple, had superseded two amongst the numerals. + +Lastly, the Western Australian and the Kowrarega so closely agree in the +use of the numeral two for the dual pronoun, that each applies it in the +same manner. In the third person it stands alone, so that in Western +Australian boala, and in Kowrarega pale = they two, just as if in English +we said pair or both, instead of they both (he pair); whilst in the +second person, the pronoun precedes it, and a compound is formed; just as +if, in English, we translated the Greek sphoi by thou pair or thou both. + +1. +Singular : nga-tu = I, me. +Dual : albei = we two, us two. +Plural : arri = we, us. + +Here the plural and dual are represented not by a modification of the +singular but by a new word; as different from nga as nos is from ego. The +tu, of course, is non-radical, the Gudang form being ngai. + +Nga, expressive of the first person, is as common as ngi, equivalent to +the second. Thus, nga-nya, nga-toa, nga-i, nga-pe = I, me, in the Western +Australian, New South Wales, Parnkalla, and Encounter Bay dialects. + +Now, the difference between the first and second persons being expressed +by different modifications (nga, ngi) of the same root (ng), rather than +by separate words, suggests the inquiry as to the original power of that +root. It has already been said that, in many languages, the pronoun of +the third person is, in origin, a demonstrative. In the Kowrarega it +seems as if even the basis of the first and second was the root of the +demonstrative also; since, by looking lower down in the list, we find +that i-na = this, che-na = that, and nga-du (nga in Gudang) = who. Ina +and chena also means here and there, respectively. + +The dual form albei reappears in the Yak-kumban dialect of the River +Darling where allewa = we two. Arri = us, is also the first syllable in +the Western Australian form ar-lingul = we; or, rather it is ar-lingul in +a simpler and less compounded form. In a short specimen of Mr. +Eyre's from the head of the Great Australian Bight, the form in a appears +in the singular number, ajjo = I and me. The root tana = they, is not +illustrated without going as far as the Western Australian of Mr. Eyre. +Here, however, we find it in the compound word par-tanna = many. Its +original power is probably others; and it is most likely a widely +diffused Australian root. + +The pronouns in question are compound rather than simple; i.e. instead of +nga = me, and ngi = thee, we have nga-tu and ngi-du. What is the import +and explanation of this? It may safely be said, that the termination in +the Australian is NOT a termination like the Latin met in ego- met, +inasmuch as this last is constant throughout the three persons (ego-met, +tute-met, se-met), whereas, the former varies with the pronoun to which +it is appended (nga-tu, and ngi-du). I hazard the conjecture that the two +forms correspond with the adverbs here and there; so that nga-tu = I +here, and ngi-du = thou there, and nu-du = he there. In respect to the +juxtaposition of the simple forms (ngai, ngi, and nue) of the Gudang with +the compound ones (nga-tu, ngi-du, and nu-du) of the Kowrarega, it can be +shown that the same occurs in the Parnkalla of Port Lincoln; where Mr. +Eyre gives the double form ngai and nga-ppo each = I or me. + +Now, this analysis of the Kowrarega personals has exhibited the evolution +of one sort of pronoun out of another, with the addition of certain words +expressive of number, the result being no true inflexion but an +agglutination or combination of separate words. It has also shown how the +separate elements of such combinations may appear in different forms and +with different powers in different dialects of the same language, and +different languages of the same class, even where, in the primary and +normal signification, they may be wanting in others. The first of these +facts is a contribution to the laws of language in general; the second +shows that a great amount of apparent difference may be exhibited on the +surface of a language which disappears as the analysis proceeds. + +In rude languages the Numerals vary with the dialect more than most other +words. We can understand this by imagining what the case would be in +English if one of our dialects counted things by the brace, another by +the pair, and a third by the couple. Nevertheless, if we bear in mind the +Greek forms Thalassa and Thalatta, we may fairly suppose that the +Kowrarega word for two, or quassur, is the same word with the Head of +Australian Bight kootera, the Parnkalla kuttara, and the Western +Australian kardura, having the same meaning. + +The difference, then, between the numerals of the Australian +languages--and it is undoubtedly great--is no proof of any fundamental +difference of structure or origin. It is just what occurs in the +languages of Africa, and, in a still greater degree, in those of America. + +The extent to which the numeration is carried, is a matter of more +importance. Possibly a numeration limited to the first three, four, or +five numbers is the effect of intellectual inferiority. It is certainly a +cause that continues it. As a measure of ethnological affinity it is +unimportant. In America we have, within a limited range of languages, +vigesimal systems like the Mexican, and systems limited to the three +first units like the Caribb. The difference between a vigesimal and +decimal system arises simply from the practice of counting by the fingers +and toes collectively, or the fingers alone, being prevalent; whereas the +decimal system as opposed to the quinary is referrible to the numeration +being extended to both hands, instead of limited to one. Numerations not +extending as far as five are generally independent of the fingers in +toto. Then as to the names of particular numbers. Two nations may each +take the name of the number two from some natural dualism; but they may +not take it from the name. For instance, one American Indian may take it +from a pair of skates, another from a pair of shoes. If so, the word for +two will differ in the two languages, even when the names for skate and +shoe agree. All this is supported by real facts, and is no hypothetical +illustration; so that the inference from it is, that, in languages where +a numeral system is in the process of formation, difference in the names +of the numbers is comparatively unimportant. + +The extent to which the numerals vary, the extent to which they agree, +and the extent to which this variation and agreement are anything but +coincident with geographical proximity or distance, may be seen in the +following table: + +English : one two three. +Moreton Bay : kamarah bulla mudyan. +Moreton Island : karawo poonlah madan. +Bijenelumbo : warat ngargark 2 + 1. +Limbakarajia : erat ngargark 2 + 1. +Terrutong : roka oryalk 2 + 1. +Limbapyu : immuta lawidperra 2 + 1. +Kowrarega : warapune quassur 2 + 1. +Gudang : epiamana elabaio 2 + 1. +Darnley Island : netat nes 2 + 1. +Raffles Bay : loca orica orongarie. +Lake Macquarie : wakol buloara ngoro. +Peel River : peer pular purla. +Wellington : ngungbai bula bula-ngungbai. +Corio : koimoil. +Jhongworong : kap. +Pinegorine : youa. +Gnurellean : lua. +King George Sound : keyen cuetrel murben. +Karaula : mal bular culeba. +Lachlan, Regent Lake : nyoonbi bulia bulongonbi. +Wollondilly River : medung pulla colluerr. + +The Verb now requires notice. In languages in the same stage of +development with the Australian the usual analysis, as shown by the late +Mr. Garnett in his masterly papers on the structure of the verb, is as +follows: 1. The root. 2. The possessive pronoun. 3. A particle of +time--often originally one of place. + +A rough illustration of this is the statement that such a word as dormur +== sleep-my-then (or there). To apply this doctrine to the Kowrarega with +our present data, is unsafe. Still, I am inclined (notwithstanding some +difficulties) to identify the pa of the Present tense with the bu in +kai-bu = now, and the n of the preterite with the n of che-na = there. + +The double forms of the Past tense (one in n, and another in m) are at +present inexplicable. So are the double forms of the Imperative, namely +the one in r, and the one in e. It may, however, be remarked, that +wherever the Imperative ends in e, the Preterite has the form in m; thus, +pid-e = dig, pid-ema = dug. The only exception is the anomalous form +peneingodgi = dived. This prepares the future grammarian for a division +of the Kowrarega Verbs into Conjugations. + +The last class of words that supply the materials of comment are the +Substantives. Herein, the formation of the plural by the addition of le, +probably occurs in several of the Australian tongues. I infer this from +many of those words which we find in the vocabularies of languages +whereof the grammar is unknown, and which are expressive of naturally +plural objects ending in li, la, or l. + +1. Star (stars)--pur-le, pi-lle, poo-lle, in Parnkalla, Aiawong, and +Yak-kumban. + +2. Fire (flames)--ka-lla, gad-la, in Western Australian and Parnkalla. + +3. Head (hair)--kur-le, Encounter Bay. Here we learn from the forms +kar-ga, from the Head of the Great Australian Bight, and ma-kar-ta, from +Adelaide, that the l is foreign to the root. + +4. Hands--marrow-la in the Molonglo dialect; as contrasted with marra in +the Adelaide. + +This, however, is merely a conjecture, a conjecture, however, which has a +practical bearing. It suggests caution in the comparison of vocabularies; +since, by mistaking an inflexion or an affix for a part of the root, we +may overlook really existing similarities. + +Father Anjello's very brief grammatical sketch of the Limbakarajia +language of Port Essington* exhibits, as far as it goes, precisely the +same principles as Mr. Macgillivray's Kowrarega; indeed, some of the +details coincide. + +(*Footnote. Given to Mr. Macgillivray by Mr. James Macarthur, and +prefixed to the manuscript Port Essington Vocabulary, alluded to in +Volume 1.) + +Thus, the Limbakarajia personal pronouns are: + +I = nga-pi. +We = ngari. +Thou = noie. +We two = arguri. +He, she, it = gianat. +Ye = noie. +They = ngalmo. + +Here the pi in nga-pi is the po in the Aiawong nga-ppo; the gian in +gian-at being, probably, the in in the Kowrarega ina = that, this. +Ngalmo, also, is expressly stated to mean many as well as they, a fact +which confirms the view taken of tana. + +As for the tenses of the verbs, they are evidently no true tenses at all, +but merely combinations of the verbal root, and an adverb of time. In +Limbakarajia, however, the adverbial element precedes the verbal one. In +Kowrarega, however, the equivalent to this adverbial element (probably a +simple adverb modified in form so as to amalgamate with its verb, and +take the appearance of an inflexion) follows it--a difference of order, +sequence, or position, upon which some philologists will, perhaps, lay +considerable stress. On the contrary, however, languages exceedingly +similar in other respects, may differ in the order of the parts of a +term; e.g. the German dialects, throughout, place the article before the +noun, and keep it separate: whereas the Scandinavian tongues not only +make it follow, but incorporate it with the substantive with which it +agrees. Hence, a term which, if modelled on the German fashion, should be +hin sol, becomes, in Scandinavian, solen = the sun. And this is but one +instance out of many. Finally, I may add that the prefix apa, in the +present tense of the verb = cut, is, perhaps, the same affix eipa in the +present tense of the Kowrarega verbs. + +Another point connected with the comparative philology of Australia is +the peculiarity of its phonetic system. The sounds of f and s are +frequently wanting. Hence, the presence of either of them in one dialect +has been considered as evidence of a wide ethnological difference. Upon +this point--in the case of s--the remarks on the sound systems of the +Kowrarega and Gudang are important. The statement is, the s of the one +dialect becomes ty or tsh (and ch) in the other. Thus the English word +breast = susu, Kowrarega; tyu-tyu, Gudang, and the English outrigger +float = sarima, Kowrarega; charima, Gudang, which of these two forms is +the older? Probably the Gudang, or the form in ty. If so, the series of +changes is remarkable, and by attending to it we may see how sounds +previously non-existent may become evolved. + +Thus--let the original form for breast be tutu. The first change which +takes place is the insertion of the sound of y, making tyu-tyu; upon the +same principle which makes certain Englishmen say gyarden, kyind, and +skyey, for garden, kind, and sky. The next change is for ty to become +tsh. This we find also in English, where picture or pictyoor is +pronounced pictshur, etc. This being the change exhibited in the Gudang +form tyutyu (pr. choochoo, or nearly so) we have a remarkable phonetic +phenomenon, namely the existence of a compound sound (tsh) wherein s is +an element, in a language where s, otherwise than as the element of a +compound, is wanting. In other words, we have a sound formed out of s, +but not s itself; or (changing the expression still further) we have s in +certain combinations, but not uncombined. Let, however, the change +proceed, and the initial sound of t be lost. In this case tsh becomes sh. +A further change reduces sh to s. + +When all this has taken place--and there are many languages wherein the +whole process is exhibited--the sound of a hitherto unknown articulation +becomes evolved or developed by a natural process of growth, and that in +a language where it was previously wanting. The phenomenon, then, of the +evolution of new simple sounds should caution us against over-valuing +phonetic differences. So should such facts as that of the closely allied +dialects of the Gudang and Kowrarega differing from each other by the +absence or presence of so important a sound as that of s. + +The comparative absence, however, of the sound of s, in Australian, may +be further refined on in another way; and it may be urged that it is +absent, not because it has never been developed, or called into +existence, but because it has ceased to exist. In the Latin of the +Augustan age as compared with that of the early Republic, we find the s +of words like arbos changed into r (arbor). The old High German, also, +and the Icelandic, as compared with the Meso-Gothic, does the same. Still +the change only affects certain inflectional sy1lables, so that the +original s being only partially displaced, retains its place in the +language, although it occurs in fewer words. In Australian, where it is +wanting at all, it is wanting in toto: and this is a reason for believing +that its absence is referrible to non-development rather than to +displacement. For reasons too lengthy to exhibit, I believe that this +latter view is NOT applicable to Australian; the s, when wanting, being +undeveloped. In either case, however, the phonetic differences between +particular dialects are the measures of but slight differences. + +Now--with these preliminary cautions against the over-valuation of +apparent differences--we may compare the new data for the structure of +the Kowrarega and Limbakarajia with the reccived opinions respecting the +Australian grammars in general. + +These refer them to the class of agglutinate tongues, i.e. tongues +wherein the inflections can be shown to consist of separate words more or +legs incorporated or amalgamated with the roots which they modify. It may +be said that this view is confirmed rather than impugned. + +Now, what applies to the Australian grammars applies also to Polynesian +and the more highly-developed Malay languages, such as the Tagala of the +Philippines, for instance; and, if such being the case, no difference of +principle in respect to tkeir structure separates the Australian from the +languages of those two great classes. But the details, it may be said, +differ undoubtedly; and this is what we expect. Plural numbers, signs of +tense, and other grammatical elements, are evolved by means of the +juxtaposition of similar but not identical elements, e.g. one plural may +be formed by the affix signifying many; another, by the affix signifying +with or conjointly; one preterite may be the root plus a word meaning +then; another the root plus a word meaning there. Futures, too, may be +equally evolved by the incorporation or juxtaposition of the word meaning +after, or the word meaning to-morrow. All this makes the exact +coincidence of the details of inflection the exception rather than the +rule. + +This doctrine goes farther than the mere breaking-down of the lines of +demarcation which separate classes of languages like the Australian from +classes of languages like the Malayo-Polynesian. It shows how both may be +evolved from monosyllabic tongues like the Chinese or Siamese. The proof +that such is really the case lies in the similarity of individual words, +and consists in comparative tables. It is too lengthy for the present +paper, the chief object of which is to bring down the inferences from the +undoubtedly great superficial differences between the languages of the +parts in question to their proper level. + +In respect to the vocabularies, the extent to which the analysis which +applies to the grammar applies to the vocables also may be seen in the +following instance. The word hand in Bijenelumbo and Limbapyu is birgalk. +There is also in each language a second form--anbirgalk--wherein the an +is non-radical. Neither is the alk; since we find that armpit = +ingamb-alk, shoulder = mundy-alk, and fingers = mong-alk. This brings the +root = hand to birg. Now this we can find elsewhere by looking for. In +the Liverpool dialect, bir-il = hand, and at King George Sound, peer = +nails. The commonest root, = hand in the Australian dialects, is m-r, +e.g.: + +Moreton Bay : murrah. +Corio : far-onggnetok. +Karaula : marra. +Jhongworong : far-okgnata. +Sydney : da-mora. +Murrumbidje : mur-rugan. +Mudje : mara. +Molonglo : mar-rowla. +Wellington : murra. +Head of Bight : merrer. +Liverpool : ta-mura. +Parnkalla : marra. + +All this differs from the Port Essington terms. Elbow, however, in the +dialects there spoken, = waare; and forearm = am-ma-woor; wier, tao, = +palm in Kowrarega. + +To complete the evidence for this latter word being the same as the m-r +of the other dialects and languages, it would be necessary to show, by +examples, how the sounds of m and w interchange; and also to show (by +example also) how the ideas of elbow, forearm, and hand do so. But as the +present remarks are made for the sake of illustrating a method, rather +than establishing any particular point, this is not necessary here; a few +instances taken from the names of the parts of the human body being +sufficient to show the general distribution of some of the commoner +Australian roots; and the more special fact of their existence in the +northern dialects: + +English : hand. +Peel River : ma. +Terrutong : manawiye. +Raffles Bay : maneiya. + +... + +English : foot. +Moreton Bay : chidna. +Moreton Island : tenang. +Karaula : tinna. +Lake Macquarie : tina. +Peel River : tina. +Jhongworong : gnen-ong-gnat-a. +Mudje : dina. +Wellington : dinnung. +Corio : gen-ong-gnet-ok. +Liverpool : dana. +Bathurst : dina. +Colack : ken-ong-gnet-ok. +Boraipar : tchin-nang-y +Lake Hindmarsh : jin-nerr. +Bight Head : jinna. +Parnkalla : idna. +Murrumbidje : tjin-nuk. +Aiawong : dtun. +King George Sound : tian. +Molonglo : jin-y-gy. +Pinegorine : gena. +Goold Island : pinyun and pinkan. +Gnurellean : gen-ong-be-gnen-a. + +... + +English : hair, beard. +Goold Island : kiaram. +Moreton Island : yerreng. +Wellington : uran. +Karaula : yerry. +Bijenelumbo : yirka. +Sydney : yaren. +Regent's Lake : ooran. +Peel River : ierai. +Lake Macquarie : wurung. +Mudje : yarai. + +... + +English : eye. +Jhongworong : mer-ing-gna-ta. +Moreton Island : mel. +Pinegorine : ma. +Moreton Bay : mill. +Gnurellean : mer-e-gnen-a. +Gudang : emeri = eyebrow. +Boraipar : mer-ring-y. +Lake Hindmarsh : mer. +Bijenelumbo : merde = eyelid. +Regent's Lake : mil. +Lake Mundy : meer-rang. +Karaula : mil. +Murrumbidje : mil. +Mudje : mir. +Corio : mer-gnet-ok. +Bight Head : mail. +Colack : mer-gnen-ok. +King George Sound : mial. +Dautgart : mer-gna-nen. + +... + +English : tooth. +Sydney : yera. +Moreton Island : tiya. +Wellington : irang. +Murrumbidje : yeeran. +Moreton Bay : deer. +Lake Macquarie : tina. +Goold Island : eera. + +... + +English : tongue. +Lake Macquarie : talan. +Moreton Bay : dalan. +Regent's Lake : talleng. +Sydney : dalan. +Karaula : talley. +Peel River : tale. +Goold Island : talit. +King George Sound : talien. + +... + +English : ear. +Moreton Bay : bidna. +Kowrarega : kowra. +Karaula : binna. +Sydney : kure. +Peel River : bine. +Liverpool : kure. +Bathurst : benang-arei. +Lake Macquarie : ngureong. +Goold Island : pinna. + +The Miriam Vocabulary belongs to a different class, namely the Papuan. It +is a dialect of language first made known to us through the Voyage of the +Fly, as spoken in the islands Erroob, Maer, and Massied. Admitting this, +we collate it with the North Australian tongues, and that, for the sake +of contrast rather than comparison. Here, the philologist, from the +extent to which the Australian tongues differ from each other, +notwithstanding their real affinity, is prepared to find greater +differences between an Australian and a Papuan language than, at the +first glance, exists. Let us verify this by reference to some words which +relate to the human body, and its parts. + +COLUMN 1: ENGLISH. +COLUMN 2: ERROOB. +COLUMN 3: MASSIED. +COLUMN 4: KOWRAREGA. +COLUMN 5: GUDANG. + +Nose : pit : pichi : piti : -. +Lips : - : anka : - : angka. +Cheek : baag : - : baga : baga. +Chin, jaw : iba : ibu : ibu : ebu. +Navel : kopor, kupor : kupor : kupar : kopurra. +Eye : - : dana : dana : dana. +Skin : egur : - : - : equora. +Vein : kerer : kirer : kerur : kerur. +Bone : lid : - : rida : -. +Sore : bada : - : bada : -. + +Few Australian vocabularies are thus similar--a fact which may be said to +prove too much; since it may lead to inference that the so-called Papuan +tongue of Torres Strait is really Australian. Nevertheless, although I do +not absolutely deny that such is the case, the evidence of the whole body +of ethnological fact--e.g. those connected with the moral, intellectual, +and physical conformation of the two populations--is against it. + +And so is the philology itself, if we go further. The Erroob pronouns +are: + +Me = ka. +You = ma. +His = eta. +Mine = ka-ra. +Your = ma-ra. + +All of which are un-Australian. + +Are we then to say that all the words of the table just given are +borrowed from the Australian by the Papuans, or vice versa? No. Some +belong to the common source of the two tongues, pit = nose being, +probably, such a word; whilst others are the result of subsequent +intercourse. + +Still, it cannot absolutely be said that the Erroob or Miriam iongue is +not Australian also, or vice versa. Still less, is it absolutely certain +that the former is not transitional between the New Guinea language and +the Australian. I believe, however, that it is not so. + +The doubts as to the philological position of the Miriam are by no means +diminished by reference to the nearest unequivocally Papuan vocabulary, +namely that of Redscar Bay. Here the difference exceeds rather than falls +short of our expectations. The most important of the few words which +coincide are: + +COLUMN 1: ENGLISH. +COLUMN 2: REDSCAR BAY. +COLUMN 3: ERROOB. + +Head : quara : kerem. +Mouth : mao : mit = lips. +Testicles : abu : eba = penis. +Shoulder : paga : pagas = upper arm. + +On the other hand, the Redscar Bay word for throat, kato, coincides with +the Australian karta of the Gudang of Cape York. Again, a complication is +introduced by the word buni-mata = eyebrow. Here mata = eye, and, +consequently, buni = brow. This root re-appears in the Erroob; but there +it means the eyeball, as shown by the following words from Jukes' +Vocabulary: + +Eye : irkeep +Eyebrow : irkeep-moos = eye-hair. +Eyeball : poni. +Eyelid : poni-pow = eyeball-hair. + +Probably the truer meaning of the Redscar Bay word is eyeball. + +No inference is safer than that which brings the population of the +Louisiade Archipelago, so far, at least, as it is represented by the +Vocabularies of Brierly Island and Duchateau Island, from the eastern +coast of New Guinea. What points beyond were peopled from Louisiade is +another question. + +For the islands between New Ireland and New Caledonia our data are +lamentably scanty; the list consisting of: + +1. A short vocabulary from the Solomon Isles. +2. Short ones from Mallicollo. +3. The same from Tanna. +4. Shorter ones still from Erromanga and +5. Annatom. +6. Cook's New Caledonian Vocabulary. +7. La Billardiere's ditto. + +The collation of these with the Louisiade has led me to a fact which I +little expected. As far as the very scanty data go, they supply the +closest resemblance to the Louisiade dialects, from the two New +Caledonian vocabularies. Now New Caledonia was noticed in the Appendix to +the Voyage of the Fly (volume 2 page 318) as apparently having closer +philological affinities with Van Diemen's Land, than that country had +with Australia; an apparent fact which induced me to write as follows: "A +proposition concerning the Tasmanian language exhibits an impression, +rather than a deliberate opinion. Should it, however, be confirmed by +future researches, it will at once explain the points of physical +contrast between the Tasmanian tribes and those of Australia that have so +often been insisted on. It is this--that the affinities of language +between the Tasmanian and the New Caledonian are stronger than those +between the Australian and Tasmanian. This indicates that the stream of +population for Van Diemen's Land ran ROUND Australia, rather than across +it." Be this as it may, the remark, with our present scanty matcrials, +is, at best, but a suggestion--a suggestion, however, which would account +for the physical appearance of the Tasmanian being more New Caledonian +than Australian. + +The chief point of resemblance between the Louisiade and the New +Caledonian is taken from the numerals. In each system there is a prefix, +and in each that prefix begins with a labial letter--indeed the wa of New +Caledonia and the pahi of Louisiade seem to be the same roots. + +1. +Brierly Island : paihe-tia. +Cook's New Caledonia : wa-geeaing. +La Billardiere's New Caledonia : oua-nait. + +2. +Brierly Island : pahi-wo. +Cook's New Caledonia : wa-roo. +La Billardiere's New Caledonia : oua-dou. + +3. +Brierly Island : paihe-tuan. +Cook's New Caledonia : wa-teen. +La Billardiere's New Caledonia : oua-tguien. + +4. +Brierly Island : paihe-pak. +Cook's New Caledonia : wa-mbaeek. +La Billardiere's New Caledonia : oua-tbait. + +5. +Brierly Island : paihe-lima. +Cook's New Caledonia : wa-nnim. +La Billardiere's New Caledonia : oua-nnaim. + +6. +Brierly Island : paihe-wona. +Cook's New Caledonia : wa-nnim-geeek. +La Billardiere's New Caledonia : oua-naim-guik. + +7. +Brierly Island : pahe-pik. +Cook's New Caledonia : wa-nnim-noo. +La Billardiere's New Caledonia : oua-naim-dou. + +8. +Brierly Island : paihe-wan. +Cook's New Caledonia : wa-nnim-gain. +La Billardiere's New Caledonia : ou-naim-guein. + +9. +Brierly Island : paihe-siwo. +Cook's New Caledonia : wa-nnim-baeek. +La Billardiere's New Caledonia : oua-naim-bait. + +10. +Brierly Island : paihe-awata. +Cook's New Caledonia : wa-nnoon-aiuk. +La Billardiere's New Caledonia : oua-doun-hic. + +The Redscar Bay numerals are equally instructive. They take two forms: +one with, one without, the prefix in ow, as recorded by Mr. Macgillivray. + +This system of prefix is not peculiar. The Tanna and Mallicollo numerals +of Cook are: + +COLUMN 1: ENGLISH. +COLUMN 2: TANNA. +COLUMN 3: MALLICOLLO. + +One : r-eedee : tsee-kaee +Two : ka-roo : e-ry. +Three : ka-har : e-rei +Four : kai-phar : e-bats +Five : k-reerum : e-reeum +Six : ma-r-eedee : tsookaeee +Seven : ma-ka-roo : gooy +Eight : ma-ka-har : hoo-rey +Nine : ma-kai-phar : good-bats. +Ten : ma-k-reerum : senearn. + +Here, although the formations are not exactly regular, the prefixion of +an initial syllable is evident. So is the quinary character of the +numeration. The prefix itself, however, in the Tanna and Mallicollo is no +labial, as in the Louisiade and New Caledonian, but either k or a +vowel. + +The next fact connected with the Louisiade vocabularies is one of greater +interest. Most of the names of the different parts of the body end in da. +In the list in question they were marked in italics; so that the +proportion they bear to the words not so ending was easily seen. Now it +is only the words belonging to this class that thus terminate. Elsewhere +the ending da is no commoner than any other. + +What does this mean? If we look to such words as mata-da = eyes, sopa-da += lips, maka-da = teeth, and some other naturally plural names, we should +infer that it was a sign of number. That this, however, is not the case +is shown by the equivalents to tongue, nose, and other single members +where the affix is equally common. What then is its import? The American +tongues help us here: + +COLUMN 1: ENGLISH. +COLUMN 2: MBAYA. +COLUMN 3: ABIPONI. +COLUMN 4: MOKOBI. + +Head : na-guilo : ne-maiat : -. +Eye : ni-gecoge : na-toele : ni-cote. +Ear : na-pagate : - : -. +Nose : ni-onige : - : -. +Tongue : no-gueligi : - : -. +Hair : na-modi : ne-etiguic : na-ccuta. +Mand : ni-baagadi : na-pakeni : na-poguena. +Foot : no-gonagi : - : -. + +COLUMN 1: ENGLISH. +COLUMN 2: MOXA (1).* +COLUMN 3: MOXA (2). +COLUMN 4: MOXA (3). + +(*Footnote. These are three different dialects.) + +Head : nu-ciuti : nu-chuti : nu-chiuti +Eye : nu-chi : - : nu-ki +Ear : nu-cioca : - : -. +Nose : nu-siri : nu-siri : -. +Tongue : nu-nene : nu-nene : nu-nene. +Hand : nu-bore : nu-boupe : nu-bore. +Foot : ni-bope : - : ni-bope. + +Now in these, and in numerous other American tongues, the prefix is the +possessive pronoun; in other words, there is a great number of American +languages where the capacity for abstracting the thing possessed from the +possessor is so slight as to make it almost impossible to disconnect the +noun from its pronoun. I believe, then, the affixes in question have a +possessive power; and am not aware that possessive adjuncts thus +incorporated have been recognised in any of the languages for these +parts; indeed, they are generally considered as American characteristics. + +How far does their presence extend? In the New Caledonian vocabulary of +La Billardiere we find it. The names of the parts of the body all take an +affix, which no other class of words does. This is gha, guai, or ghai, or +other similar combination of g with a vowel. In Van Diemen's Land, an +important locality, we find the following series of words, which are +submitted to the judgment of the reader. + +COLUMN 1: ENGLISH. +COLUMN 2: WESTERN TASMANIAN. + +Foot : lula. +Leg : peea = piya = posteriors, Brumer I. +Thigh : tula = turi = knee, Brumer I. +Belly : cawara-ny. +Neck : denia. +Ears : lewli-na. +Nose : me-na. +Eyes : pollatoola = matara-pulupulura = eyelashes, Brierly I. +Hair : pareata. +Hair : palani-na. +Face : manrable. +Mouth : ca-nia. +Teeth : yannalople = yinge-da, Brierly I. +Tongue : tulla-na. +Arm : alree. +Fist : reannema-na. +Head : pulbea-ny. + +Here the termination na appears elsewhere, as in mema-na = fight, +nabagee-na = sun; but by no means so frequently, nor yet with such an +approach to regularity. + +COLUMN 1: ENGLISH. +COLUMN 2: CIRCULAR HEAD. + +Hair : parba. +Hand : rabal-ga. +Foot : rabuc-ka. +Head : ewuc-ka. +Eyc : mameric-ca. +Nose : rowari-ga. +Tongue : mamana = mimena, Brumer I. +Teeth : cawna. +Ear : cowanrig-ga. + +Here, however, it must not be concealed that the termination ka, or ga, +occurs in other words, such as tenal-ga = laugh, tar-ga = cry, teiri-ga = +walk, lamuni-ka = see. These, however, are verbs; and it is possible +(indeed probable) that the k or g is the same as in the preceding +substantives, just as the m in su-m, and ei-mi (Greek) is the m in meus, +me, and eme (Greek). Still, this will not apply throughout; e.g. the +words like lalli-ga = kangaroo, para-ka = flower, and others. + +COLUMN 1: ENGLISH. +COLUMN 2: EASTERN TASMANIAN. + +Eye : lepe-na +Ear : pelverata. +Elbow : rowella +Foot : langa-na +Fist : trew +Head : pathe-na-naddi +Hair : cetha-na +Hand : anama-na = nema-da, Brumer I. +Knee : nannabena-na. +Leg : lathana-ma +Teeth : yan-na = yinge-da, Brierly I. +Tongue : me-na = mime-na, Brumer I. +Chin : came-na. +Neck : lepera. +Breast : wagley. + +Here, the number of other words ending in na is very considerable; so +considerable that, if it were not for the cumulative evidence derived +from other quarters, it would be doubtful whether the na could +legitimately be considered as a possessive affix at all. It MAY, however, +be so even in the present instance. + +To these we may add two lists from the Lobo and Utanata dialects of the +south-western coast of New Guinea. + +COLUMN 1: ENGLISH. +COLUMN 2: UTANATA. +COLUMN 3: LOBO. + +Arms : too : nima-ngo. +Back : urimi : rusuko-ngo. +Beard : - : minooro. +Belly : imauw : kanboro-ngo. +Breast, female : auw : gingo-ngo. +Breast, male : paiety : gingo-ngo +Cheeks : awamu : wafiwirio-ngo. +Ears : ianie : -. +Eyebrows : - : matato-ngo-wuru. +Eyes : mame : matatoto-ngo. +Fingers : - : nima-ngo-sori. +Foot : mouw : kai-ngo. +Hands : toe-mare : nima-ngo-uta. +Hair : oeirie : mono-ng-furu. +Head : oepauw : mono-ngo or umum. +Knee : iripu : kai-ngo-woko. +Mouth : irie : orie-ngo. +Nose : birimboe : sikaio-ngo. +Neck : ema : gara-ng. +Tongue : mare : kario-ngo. +Thigh : ai : willanima. +Teeth : titi : riwoto-ngo. +Toes : - : nisora. + +Finally, we have the long, and evidently compound forms of p** in the +Corio, Colack, and other Australian dialects; long and evidently compound +forms which no hypothesis so readily explains as that of the possessive +adjunct; a phenomenon which future investigation many show to be equally +Oceanic and American. + +... + + +APPENDIX 4. + +CATALOGUE OF THE BIRDS OF THE NORTH-EAST COAST OF AUSTRALIA AND TORRES +STRAIT. + +Lists exhibiting the occurrence of Australian Birds in particular +districts are instructive, as showing the range of species over the +various parts of an extensive district, and as bearing upon, and to my +mind confirming, to a certain extent, the views of those geologists who +consider Australia to have formerly appeared as a cluster of three or +four islands, subsequently connected since the tertiary epoch so as to +form what may now be considered as a continent. With the kind assistance +in determining the species of Mr. Gould, who has elsewhere published +similar lists* of the birds of other parts of Australia, the annexed +Catalogue has been made out. All the species contained therein have +passed under my own observation, and I have distributed them in three +columns; the first includes that portion of the north-east coast of +Australia and its islands included between the Tropic of Capricorn and +latitude 17 degrees 45 minutes south, or the parallel of the bottom of +the Gulf of Carpentaria; the second comprises the remainder of the +north-east coast as far to the northward as Cape York; and the third is +devoted to the islands of Torres Strait, from Raine Islet to Bramble Cay. +The species marked with an ? (query) are those which are probably local +varieties, representatives of southern birds, showing slight differences +in size, etc., yet not decided enough to be of specific value. + +(*Footnote. In the works of Strzelecki and Eyre, and Introduction to the +Birds of Australia. ) + +Ichthyaetus leucogaster 1 2 3. +Haliastur leucosternmus 1 2 3. +Pandion leucocephalus 1 2 3. +Falco frontatus 3. +Ieracidea berigora 2. +Astur novae hollandiae 1 3. +Astur approximans 1 2. +Accipiter torquatus 1 2 3. +Milvus affinis 1 2. +Circus jardinii 3. +Strix delicatula 1 2 3. +Athene boobook 1. +Athene maculata 1 2. +Podargus humeralis 1. +Podargus papuensis 2. +Podargus marmoratus 2. +Eurystopodus albogularis 2 3. +Eurystopodus guttatus 1 2 3. +Acanthylis caudacuta 2. +Cypselus australis 2 3. +Collocalia 1. +Chelidon arborea 1 3. +Merops ornatus 1 2 3. +Dacelo leachii 1 2. +Halcyon torotoro 2. +Halcyon sancta 1 2 3. +Halcyon sordida 1 2 3. +Halcyon macleayii 1 2 3. +Tanysiptera sylvia 2. +Alcyone azurea 2. +Alcyone pusilla 1 2. +Artamus leucopygialis 1 2 3. +Dicaeum hirundinaceum 1 2 3. +Cracticus nigrogularis 1 2. +Cracticus quoyii 1 2. +Grallina australis 2. +Grauculus melanops 1 2 3. +Grauculus hypoleucus 2. +Grauculus swainsonii 2. +Campephaga karu 1 2 3. +Pachycephala melanura 2 3. +Colluricincla brunnea 1 2 3. +Colluricincla harmonica 2. +Dicrurus bracteatus 1 2 3. +Rhipidura rufifrons 2. +Seisura inquieta 1 2 3. +Piezorhynchus nitidus 1 2 3. +Myiagra concinna 1 2 3. +Myiagra latirostris 1 2. +Monarcha trivirgata 1 2 3. +Monarcha leucotis 1 2. +Arses kaupii 2. +Petroica bicolor ? 2 3. +Machaerirhynchus flaviventris 2. +Drymodes superciliosa 2. +Malurus amabilis 2. +Malurus brownii 1. +Sphenoeacus galactotes 2 3. +Cysticola lineocapilla 1 2 3. +Sericornis maculata ? 2. +Anthus australis 1 2. +Estrelda bichenovii 1. +Donacola castaneothorax 2 3. +Pitta strepitans 1 2 3. +Chlamydera nuchalis 1. +Chlamydera cerviniventris 2 3. +Oriolus assimilis 2. +Oriolus flavocinctus 2. +Sphecotheres flaviventris 2. +Aplonis metallica 2. +Chalybaeus cornutus 2. +Corvus coronoides 1 2 3. +Ptilotis chrysotis 1 2 3. +Ptilotis filigera 2. +Ptilotis 2. +Entomophila 1. +Tropidorhynchus argenticeps 2. +Tropidorhynchus 2. +Myzomela erythrocephala 2 3. +Myzomela obscura 1 2 3. +Nectarinia australis 1 2 3. +Zosterops luteus 1 2 3. +Cuculus cineraceus 1. +Cuculus insperatus 1. +Chrysococcyx lucidus 1 2. +Endynamys flindersii 1 2 3. +Centropus phasianus 1 2 3. +Ptiloris victoriae 1. +Ptiloris magnifica 2. +Cacatua galerita 1 2 3. +Microglossus aterrimus 2. +Calyptorhynchus banksii 1. +Aprosmictus erythropterus ? 1 2. +Platycercus palliceps ? 2. +Melopsittacus undulatus 1. +Trichoglossus swainsonii 1 3. +Trichoglossus rubritorquis 2. +Ptilonopus ewingii 1 2. +Ptilonopus superbus 2 3. +Carpophaga luctuosa 1 2 3. +Carpophaga puella 2. +Lopholaimus antarcticus 2. +Chalcophaps chrysochlora 1 2. +Phaps elegans 1. +Geopelia humeralis 1 2 3. +Geopelia tranquilla 1 2 3. +Macropygia phasianella ? 1. +Talegalla lathami 1 2. +Megapodius tumulus 1 2 3. +Turnix melanota 1 2 3. +Coturnix pectoralis 2. +Synoicus australis 1 2 3. +Synoicus sinensis 3. +Dromaius novae hollandiae 1 2. +Otis australasiana 1. +Esacus magnirostris 1 2 3. +Oedicnemus grallarius 1. +Hoematopus longirostris 1 2 3. +Hoematopus fuliginosus 1 2 3. +Sarciophorus pectoralis 1. +Charadrius xanthocheilus 1 2 3. +Hiaticula bicincta 1. +Hiaticula ruficapilla 1 2 3. +Hiaticula inornata 2 3. +Limosa uropygialis 1 2 3. +Schoeniclus australis 1 2 3. +Schoeniclus albescens 1 2 3. +Actitis empusa 1 2. +Glottis glottoides 1 2 3. +Strepsilas interpres 1 2 3. +Numenius australis 1 2 3. +Numenius uropygialis 1 2 3. +Numenius minutus 2. +Threskiornis strictipennis 2. +Grus australasianus 1 2. +Mycteria australis 2. +Ardea Pacifica 2. +Ardea novae hollandiae 1. +Herodias jugularis 1 2 3. +Herodias greyii 1 2 3. +Herodias plumifera 2 3. +Herodias syrmatophora 3. +Nycticorax caledonicus 1 2 3. +Ardetta flavicollis 1 2. +Ardetta stagnatilis 2 3. +Porphyrio melanota 3. +Rallus pectoralis 1 2 3. +Porzana leucophrys 3. +Tadorna radjah 1 2. +Anas superciliosa 1. +Anas punctata 1 2. +Xema jamesonii ? 1 2 3. +Sylochelidon strennuus 1 2. +Thalasseus pelecanoides 1 2 3. +Sterna gracilis 2. +Sterna melanauchen 1 2 3. +Sternula nereis 2 3. +Hydrochelidon fluviatilis 2. +Onychoprion fuliginosus 1 2 3. +Onychoprion panaya 1 2 3. +Anous stolidus 1 2 3. +Anous leucocapillus 1 2 3. +Puffinus sphenurus 1 3. +Phalacrocorax carboides 1. +Phalacrocorax melanoleucus 1 2 3. +Attagen ariel 1 2 3. +Phaeton phoenicurus 3. +Pelecanus conspicillatus 1 2 3. +Sula personata. +Sula fusca 1 2 3. +Sula piscator 1 2 3. + +... + + +APPENDIX 5. + +ON THE MOLLUSCA COLLECTED BY MR. MACGILLIVRAY DURING THE VOYAGE OF THE +RATTLESNAKE, BY PROFESSOR EDWARD FORBES, F.R.S. + +1. ON THE BATHYMETRICAL DISTRIBUTION OF MARINE TESTACEA ON THE EASTERN +COAST OF AUSTRALIA. + +As in every instance the exact locality, depth and character of habitat +of species of Mollusc taken were carefully noted of at the time of +capture, much more valuable information elucidating the distribution of +shellfish in the Australian seas has been collected during this +expedition than was ever before obtained. Whilst new species are usually +sought after by collectors with eagerness, the habits and range of the +commoner or less conspicuous forms are passed over without observation.* +Hence every note on the habitat and mode of life of marine creatures from +the southern hemisphere becomes of no small value. Indeed, there is no +information more desirable at this time for the illustration of +geological phenomena, than such as may throw light on the distribution in +range and depth of the creatures inhabiting the sea of the Tropics, and +those living around the coasts of Australia and New Zealand. The +following notes will serve to record the more prominent facts bearing +upon the Bathymetrical distribution of the Testacea collected on the +northern coast of Australia, at Port Essington, and on the eastern coast +from Cape York to Bass Strait, including the northern ports of Van +Diemen's Land. + +(*Footnote. An extensive collection of landshells was made at Madeira. +They proved on examination to be all known species, including several of +the rarer forms, and not a few of those discovered by the Reverend Mr. +Lowe. They were compared with Madeiran specimens by Mr. Vernon Wollaston. +When the Rattlesnake touched at the Azores on the return voyage, a few +landshells were collected at Fayal. Among them was the Helix barbula, an +Asturian species, Helix pauperata, and Bulimus variatus, Madeiran or +Canarian forms. A considerable number of marine and terrestrial Testacea +were procured at Rio de Janeiro, not a few of them new and of great +interest. Terebratula rosea was dredged off Rio in thirteen fathoms +water, on a coarse sandy bottom. Collections were also made at the Cape +of Good Hope, at Mauritius and in the Falkland Isles. The radiata were +gathered with as much care and their habitats recorded with as much +attention as the Mollusca.) + +It may here be remarked that the Molluscan fauna of the seas of North +Australia and of the north-east coast from Cape York southwards to Sandy +Cape, belongs to the great Indo-Pacific province, a zoological region +extending from the east coast of Africa (from Port Natal or a little +above, northwards to Suez) to Easter Island in the Pacific. But south of +Sandy Cape and onwards to Van Diemen's Land (and apparently including New +Zealand) we have a distinct (East)Australian province, marked by a +peculiar fauna in many respects, representative of the Senegal, and +perhaps also Lusitanian regions of the North Atlantic. + +Proceeding in descending order we may first remark on the: + +SHELLS OF SALT MARSHES. + +As in the Northern hemisphere, Melampus or Convolvulus is the genus +represented in such localities. Thus Auricula australis prevails in salt +marshes at Brisbane Water, and an allied species in similar places in New +Zealand. In both instances we find this form accompanied by members of a +curious genus characteristic of the Australian province--Ampullacera, the +Ampullacera quoyana being the Brisbane Water species, and A. avellana, +that of New Zealand. In the latter case an Assiminea is its companion. A +very curious fact noted during the expedition was the presence of a Unio +living within the influence of salt water, in the River Brisbane. + +SHELLS INHABIT MUD, ETC. AMONG MANGROVES. + +These belong to the Indo-Pacific province. Some are found on the +mangroves themselves. Such are the Littorina scabra, on the trunks and +branches of mangroves among islets in Trinity Bay; a Phasianella +inhabiting the trunks and branches of Rhizophora at the Percy Isles; a +Littorina on the leaves of Aigaeceras fragrans at Port Curtis, Auricula +angulata, and rugulata on the trunks of mangroves at Port Essington, and +Monodonta viridis on their roots at Night Island; a new and very +beautiful Ostrea was found on the roots of mangroves among Low Islets in +Trinity Bay. In the last-named locality a Cytherea inhabited the mud +around their roots. At the Three Islets several new species of Melampus, +a Nerita and a Cyrena lived in a like habitat, and at Port Essington +Cerithium kieneri, was found in the same situation. The fine Cyrena +cyrenoides lives among the roots of mangroves in the Louisiade +Archipelago. + +LITTORAL ZONE. + +Of the many living Gasteropoda taken in this region, very few are new +species. Of Patelloid forms we have a new Fissurella and Parmophorus +convexus at Port Dalrymple, accompanied by Haliotis naevosa, and species +of Patella and Siphonaria. In the more tropical regions, Haliotis asinina +and varia, another and distinct Patella, two Fissurellae and a Scutella +were collected. Of convolute shells the littoral species gathered were +all Indo-Pacific and inhabitants of mostly the coral-reef region, such as +Cypraea arabica, annulus, isabella, errones and oryza, Conus magus, +arenatus, achatinus, etc., Oliva cruentata, tremulina and ericinus, those +of the last-named genus often living in sand. Bulla cylindrica occurred +in sandy pools on the reef at Claremont Isles. Of Volutes, V. turneri +lives on coral blocks at Port Essington, and V. undulata partially buried +in sandbanks at Port Dalrymple. Conus maculosus is an inhabitant of the +last-named locality. The Mitras found in the Littoral zone were all on +the north-east coast, and well-known Indo-Pacific forms. A new Murex was +taken on mud at Port Curtis. Fasciolaria coronata, Fusus alveolatus, and +Triton verrucosus were found on the reefs at Port Dalrymple. Many species +of Nassa, all known forms, were collected, mostly on mud in the Littoral +zone, chiefly in the north-eastern province. Phos cyanostoma lives on +muddy sand in the Trinity Bay islets, where also in similar situations is +Terebra maculata and Pyramidella maculosa. Pyramidella auriscati is a +littoral shell among the reefs of the Claremont Isles. Several Purpurae +were taken on reefs and rocks at low-water; among them was P. textiliosa, +a Port Dalrymple species. A Quoya lives on rocks being high-water mark in +Lizard Island. Several Terebrae, including T. crenulata dimidiata and +affinis, inhabit muddy sand among Pipon's Islets. The well-known Strombus +luhuanus lives on sand among the reefs at Eagle Island. A Cerithium +inhabits mud-flats at Port Molle and Pipon's Islets. Of the holostomatous +gasteropods inhabiting the Littoral zone, the Naticae, mostly well-known +species, were taken in sandy localities on the north-east coast, and the +Neritae in the same province, mostly on rocks or reefs. Littorina +pyramidalis and mauritiana are inhabitants of the rocky headlands of +Broken Bay; other forms were collected at Port Curtis and at Port +Dalrymple. At the last-named locality, Turbo undulatus, a new Risella, +Monodonta constricta and buccata, and Trochus reticularis were taken on +reefs. Littoral species of the same genera occurred on the north-east +coast. A New Rissoa was found under stones at Night Island. Turbo +squamosus and Trochus lentiginosus are inhabitants of the shore at Port +Essington. In Broken Bay species of Bankivia and Scalaria were collected, +cast dead on the shore. + +The Acephala found living in the Littoral zone of the south-east +Australian province were Cleidotherus chamoides, under rocks at low-water +in Port Jackson; Mytilus erosus on the mud of zostera flats at Port +Dalrymple, several species of Venus, Tapes, Cytherea in similar +localities; Arca globata in the same habitat at Brisbane; Arca fuscata in +reefs at Port Dalrymple; a new Tellina on mud at Port Phillip; another +with Donax epidermia in sand at Broken Bay, and Clavagella australis on +rocks at low-water, Port Jackson. Species of Pectunculus, Nucula, +Pandora, Anatinella, Venus, Tellina (decussata and deltoidalis) and +Mesodesma are thrown dead on the shores. + +In the north and north-east Australian province the living littoral +Acephala are Solens of which two new species were taken at Port +Essington, Anomia australis, Anatina olerina, and another, new, in the +same locality; species of Mytilus, Meleagrina and Pinna, Ostrea and +Pecten (pyxidatus) Lima fragilis and squamosa, Hippopus and Tridacna, the +former detached on coral reefs, the latter embedded in the coral, Corbis +fimbriatus in sand among coral reefs; species of Venus, Cytherea, Circe, +and Tapes in mud, Artemis sculpta at Port Essington on sand, Lucinae on +sand or reefs, Crassatella on mudflats at Port Curtis, where Cypricardia +vellicata occupies the fissures of rocks with Carditae; several species +of Cardium in mud or sand, including C. fragum, C. subrugosum, and C. +unedo; Sanguinolaria rugosa at Dunk Island; species of Mesodesma in sand, +and Mactrae and Tellinae in mud; a new Psammobia at Port Essington as +also a new Pholas that bores into coral. Other species, members of the +same genera, are cast on shore dead. + +REGION OF WEEDS EQUIVALENT TO THE LAMINARIAN REGION OF THE EUROPEAN SEAS. + +Some seventeen or eighteen localities in this Bathymetrical province were +explored by means of the dredge, varying in depth from one to seventeen +fathoms. In the south-east Australian province the principal Gasteropoda +procured were Bulla brevis, at Port Jackson, in 6 fathoms; Cyprea oryza, +at Port Phillip, in 5 fathoms; Calyptraea connata, in 6 fathoms, Port +Jackson, with Nassa suturalis, and another, a new Terebra, Monotigma +casta, Mitra sordida, a Marginella, a Columbella, and Struthiolaria +oblita. A Phasianella was dredged in from 3 to 5 fathoms on sandy mud, at +Port Phillip, with Elenchus rutilus, Marginella fornicata, and Cerithium +granarium. In the North-east Australian province, a different set of +shells was dredged in similar depths, such as a Sigaretus, possibly new, +Fissurella calyculata, Mitra obeliscus, a Turritella, a Murex, Columbella +versicolor, and a new species off Cape York, Ranella pulchella, new, +several Nassae, Phos senticosa and blainvillei, and sculptilis, in 3 and +5 fathoms, off Cape York; Strombus campbelli, in mud off Cape Upstart; +Cerithium obeliscus, and a new species of the genus Obeliscus. In the +deeper localities Cypraea fimbriata occurred, dead, off Cape Capricorn; +and two species of Ranella, one being R. pusilla, in 17 fathoms, off the +Percy Isles. The univalves dredged among the Louisiade Islands in this +region of depth were mostly known forms, such as Conus betulinus, Oliva +sanguinolenta, Mitra exasperata, Terebra maculata, consors and labiata; +these were all taken in less than six fathoms water. + +The bivalves of this region were but few. In the South Australian +province species of Mactra, Psammobia, Venus, Tapes and Pecten, all +peculiar, were taken. This is the region of the peculiar genus Myadora, +of which five species were dredged on sand in 6 fathoms at Port Jackson, +along with Myochama anomioides, Trigonia margaritacea, Lima bullata, and +Cardium radiatum. In the North-east Australian province we have species +of Donax, Mactra and Corbula, all apparently new, from the shallower +localities; Corbula tunicata, Pectunculus tenuicostatus, and another, +from 8 to 11 fathoms, off Cumberland Islands; species of Arca, +Pectunculus, Avicula, Pecten, Venus, Circe, Cardium, Cardita, and +Erycina, mostly new, from 15 to 17 fathoms in a sandy and shelly bottom +off Cape Capricorn. + +CORALLINE ZONE. + +Some dredgings in both North and South-eastern provinces, in depths +between twenty-seven and forty-five fathoms, give a slight idea of the +fauna of this important region. In the South-eastern province we find in +forty and forty-five fathoms on a muddy bottom in Bass Strait, Turritella +sinuata, Trochus nebulosus, a Pleurotoma, an Emarginula, a Dentalium, two +species of Cardita, a Cypricardia, a Venus, a Nucula, and Pectunculus +holosericeus. In the North-eastern province we find off Cumberland Island +in 27 fathoms, also on a muddy bottom, species of Murex, Nassa, +Turritella, Ranella pusilla, a Fusus, Cancellaria antiquata, a Terebra, +two Dentalia, a Natica, a Terebellum, a Scalaria, a Cardium, a Venus, a +Nucula, a Pecten, and a Spondylus. + +It is evident from the comparative paucity of undescribed species +procured in the Littoral zone and the large proportion of new or doubtful +forms among those taken by the dredge, that a rich harvest has yet to be +reaped in the deeper regions of the southern seas. In the lower zones, +however, just as much as in the upper, the distinctions of province are +maintained. The explanation of this complete separation of the +South-eastern marine fauna of Australia from that of the North-eastern or +Indo-Pacific portion, may be explained by reference to the distribution +of currents along the Australian shores. In both, as in the Bathymetrical +regions of the South Atlantic, the Testacea of the depths are generally +smaller and less brightly coloured than those inhabiting the shallows. + +During this voyage notes of the habitats of considerably more than a +thousand species of Mollusca and Echinodermata were carefully registered. + +2. ENUMERATION OF TERRESTRIAL PULMONIFEROUS MOLLUSCA AS YET NOTICED IN +AUSTRALIA. + +The following Catalogue is founded on the monograph of Helicidae by Dr. +Pfeiffer. To the species therein described are added certain new ones, +announced by Pfeiffer since the publication of his work, and others, +recorded for the first time in this volume. It will be seen that a great +part of the Australian land-shells is as yet unfigured. The exact +localities of not a few have to be determined; a precise record was kept +of the place and circumstances under with each was found during the +voyage of the Rattlesnake. From all we yet know the genus Helix is fairly +represented in New Holland, and presents some very remarkable and +peculiar forms; Bulimus has but few, and those (with the sole exception +of B. atomatus) not remarkable Australian members; a single Pupa, closely +resembling one of our commonest European species, is the only recorded +Australian one; and a very remarkable addition to the terrestrial +conchology of the southern hemisphere has been made in a Balea of a type +unlike any other member of the genus. + +HELIX. + +1. H. falconari, Reeve. (Conch. Syst. t. 163, f. 4). +Locality: Bellingen River, in the brushes (Macgillivray). + +2. H. irradiata, Gould. +Locality: New South Wales. + +3. H. australis, Menke. +Locality: Swan River. + +4. H. georgiana, Quoy and Gaimard. +Locality: King George's Sound. + +5. H. novae hollandiae, Gray. +Locality: Macquarie River. + +6. H. jervisensis, Quoy and Gaimard. (Voyage Astr. 2 t. 10, f 26-30). +Locality: Jervis Bay (Quoy and Gaimard). Brisbane Water, under logs in +dry, stony, and scrubby ground (Macgillivray). + +7. H. subgranosa, Le Guillou. +Locality: North Australia. + +8. H. capillacea, Ferussac. (Hist. t. 82, f. 5). +Locality: Port Jackson (Ferussac). + +9. H. jacksoniensis, Gray. +Locality: Port Jackson. May not this be H. nitida introduced ? + +10. H. walkeri, Gray. +Locality: New Holland. + +11. H. gilberti, Pfeiffer. +Locality: Darling Downs, East Australia (Gilbert). Brisbane Water, under +logs in the brushes (Macgillivray). + +12. H. splendidula, Pfeiffer. (Chemnitz, ed. 2nd, t. 85, f. 1-3.) +Locality: Eastern Australia, near Torres Strait (Ince). Blackwood Bay, +and Restoration Island (Brit. Mus.) + +13. H. ziczac, Gould. +Locality: New South Wales. + +14. H. grayi, Pfeiffer. +Locality: East Australia. + +15. H. macrodon, Menke. (Fer. as M. duclosiana. Hist. t. 51 A, f. 6). +Locality: New Holland. + +16. H. vitracea, Ferussac. (Hist. t. 64, f. 5). +Locality: New Holland ? (Beck). + +17. H. lessoni, Pfeiffer. +Locality: Under bark of Eucalypti, coming out after rain, at Port Curtis +(Macgillivray). + +18. H. tortulus, Ferussac. (Hist. t. 27, f. 3, 4). +Locality: New Holland. Port Essington and North-West coast of Australia +(Brit. Mus.) + +19. H. Dringi, Pfeiffer. +Locality: East Coast of Australia, near Torres Strait (Dring). + +20. H. sinclairi, Pfeiffer. +Locality: Van Diemen's Land (Sinclair). + +21. H. semicastanea, Pfeiffer. (Chemnitz, Ed. 2nd, t. 56, f. 3-5). +Locality: "Unknown, probably New Holland," Pfeiffer. + +22. H. bipartita, Ferussac. (Hist. t. 75 A, f. 1). +Locality: At the roots of trees and bushes in Lizard Island, and at Cape +York (Macgillivray). Restoration Island (Brit. Mus.) + +23. H. pomum, Pfeiffer. (Phil. Icon. Helix, t. 2. f. 8). +Locality: Port Essington, about roots of trees (Macgillivray). This +appears to be H. sphaeroidea, Le Guillou (H. urvillei, Homb. et Jacq. +Voyage au Pole Sud. Moll. t. 3, f. 1-3) of which Pfeiffer remarks, "an +varietas praecedentis?" + +24. H. janellei, Le Guillou. +Locality: North Australia. + +25. H. leptogramma, Pfeiffer. +Locality: Cygnet Bay, in North Australia (Ince). + +26. H. incei, Pfeiffer. (Phil. Icon. Helix, t. 7, f. 3). +Locality: Percy Isles, under bark; Port Molle, and Keppel's Isles, in +hollow trees (Macgillivray). + +27. H. prunum, Ferussac. (Hist. t. 26, f. 7, 8). +Locality: Australia ? + +28. H. pelodes, Pfeiffer. (Chemnitz, Ed. 2nd, t. 58, f. 6, 7). +Locality: Port Essington, on trunks of melaleuca trees (Macgillivray). + +29. H. pedestris, Gould. +Locality: New South Wales. + +30. H. similaris, Ferussac. (Hist. t. 25 B, f. 1-4). +Locality: Under decaying logs in the Frankland Isles, chiefly dead +(Macgillivruy). This species appears to be most widely diffused. It is +recorded from the West lndies and Brazil, Java, the Seychelles and +Mauritius, and Bengal and China! This is the first announcement of it as +an Australian shell. Does it make its way about on floating timber? + +31. H. delessertiana, Le Guillou (H. torresii, Homb. et Jacq. Voyage au +Pole Sud. Moll. t. 4, f. 24-27). +Locality: Warrior Island, Torres Strait (Le Guillou, etc.) Nogo Island, +Endeavour Strait, at roots of grass (Macgillivray). + +32. H. gulosa, Gould. +Locality: New South Wales. + +33. H. tuckeri, Pfeiffer. (Chemnitz, Ed. 2nd, Helix, t. 79, f. 10-12). +Locality: Under dead leaves at roots of trees in Sunday Island +(Macgillivray). The original recorded habitat was Sir Charles Hardy's +Islands, where also Mr. Macgillivray round it in 1844. As Pfeiffer +suspects, H. cyclostomata of Le Guillou (H. strangulata, Homb. et Jacq. +Voyage au Pole Sud. Moll. t. 6, f. 1-4), is this species; from Warrior +Island, Torres Strait. + +34. H. cunninghami, Gray. (Griffith, An. Kingd. t. 36, f. 4). +Locality: Darling Downs, New South Wales (Macgillivray); brushes near +Wide Bay (Strange). + +35. H. taranaki, Gray. (Chemnitz, Ed. 2, t. 75, f. 4, 5). +Locality: Possession Island, Torres Strait (Ince). +The following are not enumerated as Australian in the first edition of +Pfeiffer's Monograph: + +36. H. strangei, Pfeiffer. +Locality: At Brisbane Water, New South Wales, under logs in the brushes +(Macgillivray). + +37. H. dupuyana, Pfeiffer. (Chemnitz, Ed. 2nd, Helix, t. 124, f. 15, 16). +Locality: Bellingen River, in the brushes (Macgillivray). + +38. H. pachystyla, Pfeiffer. +Locality: Facing Island, Port Curtis; Dunk Island; Cape Upstart, at roots +of bushes; Wide Bay, under bark of Eucalyptus resinifera (Macgillivray). +This fine species was originally recorded as a native of New Zealand; was +not the supposed habitat a mistake? + +39. H. yulei, Forbes. (Voyage Rattlesnake, t. 2, f. 6). +Locality: Port Molle (Macgillivray). + +40. H. iuloidea, Forbes. (Voyage Rattlesnake, t. 2, f. 4). +Locality: Port Molle (Macgillivray). + +41. H. ptycomphala, Pfeiffer. +Locality: Roots of trees among dead leaves at Cape Upstart +(Macgillivray). + +42. H. dunkiensis, Forbes. (Voyage Rattlesnake, t. 2, f. 7.) +Locality: Dunk Island (Macgillivray). + +43. H. macgillivrayi, Forbes. (Voyage Rattlesnake, t. 3, f. 1). +Locality: Frankland Isles (Macgillivray). + +44. H. franklandiensis, Forbes. (Voyage Rattlesnake, t. 2, f. 2). +Locality: Frankland Isles and Lizard Island (Macgillivray). + +45. H. inconspicua, Forbes. (Voyage Rattlesnake, t. 2, f. 3). +Locality: Islet in Trinity Bay (Macgillivray). + +46. H. brevipila, Pfeiffer. (Chemnitz, Ed. 2, Helix t. 124, f. 28-30). +Locality: Under dead leaves at roots of trees in Sunday Island +(Macgillivray). + +47. H. fraseri, Gray. (Beechey's Voyage Zool. t. 38, f. 6). +Locality: Wide Bay and Clarence River, New South Wales, in the scrubs +(Macgillivray). The true locality of this species--first given by +Beck--is thus verified. + +48. H. gaertneriana, Pfeiffer. +Locality: Night Island, on trunks and branches of a Bombax +(Macgillivray). + +49. H. sericatula, Pfeiffer. +Locality: Port Jackson (Strange). + +BULIMUS. + +1. B. faba, Martyn. (Reeve Conch. Syst. t. 175, f. 13, 14). +Locality: Australian Isles ? A Polynesian species. + +2. B. tuckeri, Pfeiffer. +Locality: Inhabits most of the islands on the North-East coast of +Australia. Among dead leaves at the roots of trees and bushes in Fitzroy, +Sunday, and Lizard Islands, and at roots of grass in Sir Charles Hardy's +Islands (Macgillivray). + +3. B. dufresnii, Leach. (Fer. Hist, t. 3. f. 1-3). +Locality: Van Diemen's Land. Under logs and stones (Macgillivray). + +4. B. atomatus, Gray. (Reeve Conch. Icon. Bulimus, t. 30, f. 184). +Locality: New South Wales (Macgillivray). Western Australia (Brit. Mus.) + +5. B. kingii, Gray. (Wood, Suppl. t. 7, f. 27). +Locality: Bald Head, King George Sound (King). + +6. B. trilineatus, Quoy and Gaimard. (Voyage Astr. 2, t. 9, f. 1-3). +Locality: Bald Head, King George Sound (Quoy and Gaimard). "Varietas +praecedentis esse videtur." Pfeiffer. + +7. B. rhodostomus, Gray. +Locality: New Holland ? + +8. B. indutus, Menke. +Locality: Darling Range and Mount Eliza, Swan River (Priess). + +9. B. melo, Quoy and Gaimard. Voyage Astr. 2 t. 9, f. 4-7.) +Locality: Bald Head, King George's Sound (Quoy and Gaimard). + +10. B. bulla, Menke. +Locality: Darling Range, Western Australia (Priess.) + +11. B. inflatus, Lamarck. (Delessert Recueil. t. 28, f. 1). +Locality: New Holland (Lamarck.) New Zealand (Beck). + +12. B. obtusus, Reeve. (Conch. Icon. t. 79, f. 583). +Locality: Australia. + +PUPA. + +1. P. pacifica, Pfeiffer. +Locality: "Sir Charles Hardy's Islands (Tucker)," Pfeiffer--where Mr. +Macgillivray also found it about roots of grass and bushes in 1844. Under +dead leaves at roots of trees in Sunday Island, and Lizard Island +(Macgillivray). + +BALEA. +1. B. australis, Forbes. (Voyage Ratt1esnake, t. 2, f. 9). +Locality: Port Molle (Macgillivray). + +VITRINA. + +1. V. cuvieri, Ferussac. (Hist. t. 9, f. 8, and t. 9 A, f. 1, 2). +Locality: Australia. + +2. V. freycineti, Ferussac. (Hist. t. 9 A, f. 3, 4, 9, and t. 9 B, f. 2). +Locality: Port Jackson. + +3. V. robusta, Gould. +Locality: East coast of New Holland. + +4. V. nigra, Quoy and Gaimard. (Voyage Astr. 2 t. 11, f. 8, 9). +Locality: Port Western and King George Sound (Quoy and Gaimard). + +5. V. strangei, Pfeiffer. +Locality: Under logs in the brushes at Brisbane Water, New South Wales +(Macgillivray). + +6. V. verreauxii, Pfeiffer. +Locality: Australia (Verreaux). + +SUCCINEA. + +1. S. australis, Ferussac. (Hist. t. 11, f. 11). +Locality: Australian Isles. Van Diemen's Land (Quoy and Gaimard). Mount +Eliza, Swan River (Priess, apud Menke). + +HELICINA. + +1. H. gouldiana, Forbes. (Voyage Ratt1esnake, t. 3, f. 3). +Locality: In the Two Isles on the North-East coast of Australia +(Macgillivray). + +1. P. bilinguis, Pfeiffer. +Locality: About roots of trees among leaves at Cape York (Macgillivray). +Blackwood Bay, and Restoration Island (Brit. Mus.) + +2. P. thomsoni, Forbes. (Voyage Rattlesnake, t. 3, f. 2). +Locality: Fitzroy Island (Macgillivray). + +CYCLOSTOMA. + +1. C. australe, Gray. +Locality: New Holland. + +2. C. vitreum, Less. (Sowerby, Thes. Conch. t. 30, f. 252). +Locality: Dunk Island, Frankland Isles, Green Island, on leaves and +trunks of trees (Macgillivray). New Ireland (Hinds). + +3. C. bilabre, Menke. +Locality: East coast of New Holland (Lehmann). + +4. C. fimbriatum, Lamarck. (Delessert Receuil. t. 29, f. 12). +Locality: New Holland. + +5. C. multilabris, Lamarck. (Delessert Receuil. t. 29, f. 14). +Locality: New Holland. Sowerby considers this to be a monstrosity (of +what?) + +... + +3. DESCRIPTIONS OF S0ME NEW SPECIES OF SHELLS, DISCOVERED DURING THE +VOYAGE OF THE RATTLESNAKE. + +Relu brumeriensis. Tab. 2 fig. 1. a, b. + +Testa imperforata, globosa-conoidea, crassa, laevigata (sub lente +granulato-striata) alba, ad aperturam nigra; spira obtusa, conoidea; +anfractus 4, convexiusculi, rapide accrescentes, ultimus basi +subcompressus; apertura per-obliqua, oblonga, intus alba; peristoma late +reflexum, nigrum. Diam. maj. 28, min. 23, alt. 23, millem. (Mus. Brit.) + +This remarkable shell resembles a dwarf H. haemastoma in shape; it is of +a porcelain white except at the aperture, which has a broad reflexed lip +of a deep brown-black hue, both within and without. It is a very +interesting species, indicative of the Indian affinities of the New +Guinea fauna. A single specimen was taken in August 1849, on a breadfruit +tree in Brumer Island, South-East coast of New Guinea. + +Helix divisa. Tab. 2 fig. 5. a, b. + +Testa obtecte perforata, lenticulari-depressa, orbicularis, carinata, +crassiuscula, superne fulva, radiato-striata, minutissime granulata, +carina acuta, superne subcrenulata, basi convexa, nitidissima, +griseo-albida, radiatim substriata ad umbilicum declivens; spira +convexiuscula; anfractus 5, planulati; apertura angulato-lunaris, intus +margaritacea; peristoma simplex, basi incrassatum, ad columellam +expansiusculum. Diam. maj. 23, min. 20, alt. 11, mill. (Mus. Brit.) + +A Helix of the Caracolla section, allied to the C. panayensis of +Broderip. Found on the ground at the roots of trees, in the South-East +Island of the Louisiade Archipelago. + +Helix louisiadensis. Tab. i. fig. 8. a, b. + +Testa imperforata, globoso-turbinata, solidiuscula, sub lente rugosa, +albida, fasciis variis purpureo-fuscis ornata; spira conoidea, rubescens; +anfrac. 5 convexiusculi, ultimus magnus, paululum deflexus; apertura +ovata, intus nitide livida, peristoma expansum, reflexum, sordide +violaceum, margine externo sinuato, columellari incrassato, dilatato, +subsulcato. Diam. maj. 26, min. 21, alt. 20, mill. (Mus. Brit.) + +This remarkable snail has a tendency towards a trochi-form contour. The +ground colour appears as a white band on the body whorl marking its most +prominent portion just below the centre. The sinuation of the outer lip +and impression of the whorl behind the peristome, give a slightly ringent +aspect to the mouth. It is very distinct from any known species; its +affinities are more with Australian than with Philippine forms. It was +taken on a tree in the South-East Island of the Louisiade Archipelago. + +Helix yulei. Tab. n. fig. 6. a, b. + +Testa profunde umbilicata, depresso-globosa, solida, striata, sub +epidermide fulvo-alba, fasciis castaneis cingulata; spira sub-depressa, +obtusa; anfractus 6 convexiusculi; apertura subcircularis; peristoma +nigrum, expansum, margine basali reflexo, columellari dilatato, umbilicum +subtegente. Diam. maj. 37, min. 27, alt. 25, mill. (Mus. Brit.) + +This handsome species is of a rich fulvous hue, with dark chestnut bands +and a deep chestnut umbilicus, partly covered by the reflexion of the +nearly black lip. It is allied to the H. incei, a well known north-east +Australian species. It was found in hollow trees, and under logs and +stones at Port Molle, in the same region. + +Helix macgillivrayi. Tab. 3 fig. 1. + +Testa imperforata, trochiformis, carinata, striis minutis spiralibus +ornata, pallide fusco-carnea, punctis nigris albo-occellatis sparsa; +spira conica; anfractus 6 planati, ultimus carinatus, basi subplanatus; +apertura oblique oblonga, intus brunnea, margine externo bisinuato; +peristoma album, incrassatum, infra reflexum; columella basi rufescens. +Diam. maj. 23, min. 19, alt. 21, mill. (Mus. Brit. and Geol.) + +Of all Australian Helices, this is perhaps the most curious. Its outline +and aspect are singularly like those of a Trochus of the Ziziphinus +group. The colour is also very singular, being a yellowish flesh hue +deepening on the base to rich brownish-yellow, and speckled irregularly +with minute black dots which are areolated with white, the white ring +being largest on the side towards the mouth. The fine striae that +encircle the body are also very curious. The outer lip of the aperture +seems as if it had been dented in two places. Behind the white thickened +peristome, intemaily is a dark brown band, which is seen through the +shell as a dark blackish green stripe. The edge of the outer lip declines +to join the body whorl a little below the keel. It was found on trunks +and branches of trees in the Frankland Isles. + +Helix dunkiensis. Tab. 2 fig. 7. a, b. + +Testa umbilicata, depresso-globosa, subcarinata, solida, radiato striata +et subtilissime granulata, flavida; spira late depressa, convexiuscula, +apice obtusa; anfractus 6 convexiusculi, ultimo obsolete carinato; +apertura lunaris, intus alba; peristoma superne rectum, margine basali +margine columellarique sub-reflexis, umbilicus profundus, conspicuus, vix +obtectus. Diam. maj. 24, min. 21, alt. 16, mill. (Mus. Brit.) + +This snail strikingly resembles some Illyrian forms. It has affinities +with H. coriaria, a species said to be from Ceylon. It was taken under +stones and about roots of trees in Dunk Island, on the North-East coast +of Australia. + +Helix franklandiensis. Tab. 2 fig. 2. a, b. + +Testa aperte-umbilicata, tumido-depressa, nitidissima, superne radiatim +striata, cornea, fasciis angustis transversis distantibus fulvis; spira +angusta; anfractus 5 planiusculi, ultimus rotundatus, antice vix +descendentes; apertura rotundata; peristoma simplex, vix acutum, rectum, +margine columellari non reflexo. Diam. maj. 26, min. 21, alt. 14 mill. +(Mus. Brit.) + +This beautiful snail is of a brightly shining yellowish or greenish horn +colour. The whorls of its spire are small, but the body whorl, whilst +preserving a wide diameter throughout, gradually increases in +trumpet-like manner to the round mouth. It belongs to the same group with +H. olivetorum and H. nitida, and is allied to the Australian H. +ptycomphala. It occurs about the roots of trees in the Frankland and +Lizard Islands. + +Helix iuloidea. Tab. 2 fig. 4. a, b, c, d. + +Testa late et perspective umbilicata, orbicularis, superne depressa seu +subconcava, rufo-cornea, regulariter costulata; anfractus 4 1/2 +convexiusculi, ultimus tumidus, rotundatus; apertura lunaris; peristoma +simplex, acutum. Diam. maj. 4 1/2, min. 4, alt. 3 mill. (Mus. Brit. & +Geol.) + +This curious little snail, resembling a rolled-up Iulus, and reminding us +of our own H. rotundata and its allies, was found under a stone at Port +Molle. + +Helix inconspicua. Tab. 2 fig. 3. a, b, c. + +Testa perforata, depresso-convexa, laevigata, nitidiuscula, pallide +cornea, basi subcompressa; anfractus 6, planiusculi; spira obtusa; +apertura lunaris; peristoma rectum, simplex, margine columellari reflexo: +umbilicus minutus, subobtectus. Diam. maj. 8--min. 7--alt. 5 mill. (Mus. +Brit.) + +A very inconspicuous ordinary-looking little shell, its upper surface +recalling the aspect of H. alliaria but with more convexity and no +lustre, and its base that of H. crystallina. It was found, apparently +gregarious, under dead leaves in an islet in Trinity Bay. + +Balea australis. Tab. 2 fig. 9. a, b. + +Testa dextrorsa, rimata, subcylindracea, turrita, decollata, dense +capillaceo-costulata, corneo-lutea, maculis obscuris flavidis; sutura +impressa; anfractus 11, convexiusculi; apertura pyriformis, columella +triplicata, plica inferior maxima, conspicua, elevata, acuta, spiralis; +peristoma continuum, solutum. Long. 18--Diam. 4--Apert 4 mill. (Mus. +Brit. & Geol.) + +This very remarkable shell, the first of its genus discovered in +Australia, differs from all its congeners. It has exactly the aspect of a +Clausilia, but the mouth is not furnished with a clausium. It was found +under stones at Port Molle. + +Pupina grandis. Tab. 2 fig. 10. a, b, c, d. + +Testa ovato-subcylindrica, superne laevigata, inferne rugulosa, +sordide-rufa; spira obtusa; anfractus 6, secundus tumidus, obliquus, +ultimus super aperturam planatus; apertura rotundata; peristoma laete +aurantiacum, rimatum, crassum, dorsaliter canaliculatum, infra +columellari, profunde sinuatum et in canali contorto excavatum; canalis +alter minutus ad partem superiorem et externam aperturae; callus +columellaris expansus, appressus. Long. 30, Diam. 15, Apert. 7 mill. +(Mus. Brit. & Geol.). + +This, the giant of its genus, is perhaps the most remarkable land-shell +discovered during the voyage. It differs from all other Pupinae in having +an unpolished surface. It was found in the South-East Island of the +Louisiade Archipelago, under dead leaves chiefly about the roots of +trees. + +Pupina thomsoni. Tab. 3 fig. 2. a, b. + +Testa ovata, polita, nitidissima, translucens, hyalina, solidiuscula; +spira obtusa; anfractus 5, duo ultimi majores; apertura orbicularis; +peristoma album, crassum, solutum, canalibus duobus interruptum; canalis +superior ad partem superiorem et externam aperturae, inferior major, +basalis, marginibus disjunctis et in dorsum anfractus prolongatis. Long. +7 1/2, diam. 4 1/2, apert. 2 mill. (Mus. Brit.) + +This remarkable and beautiful little Pupina is most nearly allied to the +P. bilinguis of Cape York. From that species (which is larger) it +differs, however, very materially, most especially in the position of the +inferior or basal canal of the aperture which is here placed like the +canal of a whelk, but in P. bilinguis is very small and placed high up, +cutting as it were the columella. The curious manner in which the margins +of the canals are prolonged on the back of the body whorl like parallel +and somewhat diverging walls is also a singular feature of this species, +which is dedicated to Dr. Thomson, surgeon of the Rattlesnake, and an +excellent botanist. It was found among dead leaves at the roots of trees +in Fitzroy Island. + +Helicina stanleyi. Tab. 3 fig. 4. a, b. + +Testa lenticularis, superne inferneque convexa, orbicularis, acute +carinata, fusco-carnea, spiraliter striata; spira obtusa; anfractus 4 1/2 +leviter convexiusculi; basis imperforata, centraliter laevigata, alba; +apertura oblique sublunata, angulata; peristoma simplex, tenue. Diam. +maj. 6 1/2, min. 6, alt. 5 mill. (Mus. Brit.) + +Found on the leaves and trunks of trees and bushes (especially Scaevola +koenigii) in the Duchateau Isles, Louisiade Archipelago. Dedicated to the +late Captain Owen Stanley, R.N. + +Helicina louisiadensis. Tab. 3 fig. 5. a, b. + +Testa depresso-globosa, superne inferneque convexa, orbicularis, obsolete +sub-angulata, pallide aurantiaca, sub lente spiraliter striata; spira +obtusa; anfractus 4 1/2, vix convexiusculi; basis imperforata, +centraliter sub-impressa; apertura lunata, inferne subangulata; peristoma +incrassatum, aurantiacum, reflexum. Diam. maj. 4 1/2, min. 4, alt. 3 +mill. (Mus. Brit.) + +On Round Island in Coral Haven, Louisiade Archipelago, under stones. This +pretty little Helicina is nearly allied to some Philippine species. + +Helicina gouldiana. Tab. 3 fig. 3. a, b. + +Testa depresso-globosa, superne sub-conica, orbicularis, obsolete +subangulata, flava seu rufa, spiraliter striata; spira prominens; +anfractus 5, planati; basis imperforata; apertura sub-lunata, inferne +angulata; peristoma incrassatum, subreflexum, album. Diam. maj. 6, min. 5 +1/4, alt. 4 1/2 mill. (Mus. Brit.) + +Under the bark of Mimusops kaukii, in the Two Isles, on the North-East +coast of Australia. Dedicated to the indefatigable illustrator of +Australian ornithology. + +Ranella pulchella. Tab. 3 fig. 6. a, b. + +Testa turrita, utroque alata, acute-caudata, alba; anfractus tumidi, +spiraliter striati, longitudinaliter noduloso-costati, costis crebris, +lateraliter varicosi, varices compressi, aliformes, crenulati, striati, +ad margines crenati; apertura ovato-rotunda, inferne longe-caudata; +peristoma solutum. Long. 20, diam. 14, apert. 4 mill. (Mus. Brit.) + +This beautiful shell was dredged in from 8 to 11 fathoms water, on a +bottom of sand and shells between Cumberland Island 1.i, and Point Slade +(Latitude 21 degrees South Longitude 149 degrees 20 minutes East). + +The spiral striae that cross its whorls are grouped in pairs; their +interstices are raised, and more or less finely crenulated; as they pass +out on the expanded and wing-like varices they diverge, and the lobe-like +projections that scallop the margins of the wings are separated from each +other by each pair of diverging striae. The fine ribs that cross the +whorls are not present on the wings, nor on the back; they are nodulated +at their decussation with the raised striae. The wing-like varices of the +whorls overlap each other alternately on each side of the shell. The only +species to which it has affinity is the R. pulchra. + +Scalaria jukesiana. Tab. 3 fig. 7. + +Testa lanceolato-turrita, gracilis, alba, laevis, nitida, +longitudinaliter costata, costis lamellosis, reflexis, simplicibus, +nnmerosis (in ult. anfrac. 20); anfractus 11, tumidi; sutura profunde +impressa; varices nulli; apertura orbicularis, margine laevi. Long. 13, +Diam. max. 14, apert 3 mill. (Mus. Brit.) + +This beautiful little Scalaria is deserving of particular notice on +account of the analogy and representation which it exhibits with the S. +clathratulus of the seas of the Northern Hemisphere. It is dedicated to +the author of the Voyage of the Fly. + +New Genus--MACGILLIVRAYIA, Forbes. + +Shell spiral, dextral, globular, thin, corneous, transparent (in the only +known species smooth or marked by obscure lines of growth) imperforate; +spire not produced (with a sinistral nucleus ?). Aperture oblong, entire, +angulated below; peristome incomplete, thin, even-edged. + +Operculum semicircular, horny, thin, composed of concentric layers with +faint traces of a spiral structure at the centro-lateral nucleus, which +is on the columellar side; from it there runs a strait rib or process +continued nearly to the outer margin, and indicated externally by a +depression or groove. + +Animal ample, provided with four very long and rather broad linear rugose +(or ciliated ?) tentacula; mantle produced into a long siphon; foot very +large, expanded, truncate in front, bearing the operculum near its +posterior extremity, but not accompanied by filamentous processes or +lobes. A float. (Mus. Brit. and Geol.) + +This very remarkable mollusk was taken in the towing net off Cape Byron, +on the east coast of Australia, in latitude 28 degrees 40 minutes South, +fifteen miles from the shore. It was floating and was apparently +gregarious. Mr. Macgillivray states that it is furnished with a float in +the manner of Ianthina. The largest specimens measure rather less than +two lines in diameter. The shell is of a yellow horn colour (as is also +the operculum) thin and transparent. It bears a striking resemblance to +our much more minute Jeffreysia opalina. The four tentacula and the form +of the very peculiar operculum also seem to indicate considerable +affinity with the genus Jeffreysia of Alder, and an examination of the +remains of the tongue extracted from a dried specimen showed an +arrangement and form of the lingual denticles very closely resembling +that exhibited by Jeffreysia. On the other hand, the very distinct and +long siphonal tube delineated in Mr. Macgillivray's drawing, taken when +the animal was alive, would seem to refer this genus to some family +probably near to Cancellaridae. It is certainly entirely distinct in +every respect from any known Gasteropod. It is a form of very great +interest to the geologist, for in it we see the nearest representation of +certain palaeozoic (especially Lower Silurian) univalves hitherto +referred to Littorina, but which, judging from their associates and the +indications afforded by the strata in which they are found, were +assuredly either inhabitants of deep water or floaters in a great ocean +like the Pacific. + +I have dedicated this most interesting creature to my friend Mr. +Macgillivray, its discoverer, whose researches have been productive of so +much new and valuable contributions to all departments of zoological +science. + +I have named the species M. pelagica. Tab. 3 fig. 8. a, b, c, d. (Mus. +Brit. and Geol.) + +New Genus--CHELETROPIS, Forbes. + +Shell spiral, turbinate, dextral, imperforate, spirally ridged or +double-keeled and transversely wrinkled; spire prominent, its nucleus +sinistral; aperture ovate, canaliculated below, its outer margin +furnished with two claw-like lobes, the one central and formed by a +prolongation of the margin between the keels of the body whorl, the other +smaUer and nearer the canal; peristome thickened, reflexed, forming a +conspicuous margin. + +Operculum none ? + +Animal unknown, but certainly floating, and probably pteropodous. This I +infer from its habits, and from the analogy of the shell with Spirialis. +(Mus. Brit. & Geol.) + +The only known species, C. huxleyi (dedicated to Mr. Huxley, Assistant +Surgeon of the Rattlesnake, and now eminent for the admirable anatomical +researches among marine invertebrata which he conducted during the +voyage) is very minute, being not more than the 1/24th of an inch in +diameter. It is translucent and of a brownish-white hue. Its aspect is +that of a Turbo in miniature. The whorls are tumid, the spire prominent; +the body whorl is belted by two prominent keels, one of which is +continued on the whorls of the spire: between, above, and below these +keels are transverse membranous raised ridges, which in the central +division of the body whorl are curved forwards. This curvature +corresponds with the projection of the curious incurved claw-like lobe +that proceeds from thc central portion of the lower lip. Towards the base +of the aperture is a second and similar but smaller lobe, below which is +the short but broad and well-marked canal. The entire lip is marginated +by the thickened and reflected peristome. I believe this curious floating +shell will throw some light on the true nature and habits of several +palaeozoic types. It was taken in the towing net, gregarious, in the sea +off Cape Howe, the south-east corner of Australia. Tab. 3 fig. 9. a, b. + +CONTENTS OF PLATES OF NEW SHELLS. + +Tab. 2. + +Fig. 1. Helix brumeriensis. +Fig. 2. Helix franklandiensis. +Fig. 3. Helix inconspicua. +Fig. 4. Helix iuloides. +Fig. 5. Helix divisa. +Fig. 6. Helix yulei. +Fig. 7. Helix dunkiensis. +Fig. 8. Helix louisiadensis. +Fig. 9. Balea australis. +Fig. 10. Pupina grandis. + +Tab. 3. + +Fig. 1. Helix macgillivrayi. +Fig. 2. Pupina Thomsoni. +Fig. 3. Helicina gouldiana. +Fig. 4. Helicina stanleyi. +Fig. 5. Helicina louisiadensis. +Fig. 6. Ranella pulchra. +Fig. 7. Scalaria jukesiana. +Fig. 8. Macgillivrayia pelagica. +Fig. 9. Cheletropis huxleyi. + +... + + +APPENDIX 6. + +DESCRIPTIONS OF SOME NEW SPECIES OF ANNULOSA COLLECTED BY MR. +MACGILLIVRAY DURING THE VOYAGE OF H.M.S. RATTLESNAKE, BY ADAM WHITE, +ESQUIRE, F.L.S., ASSISTANT ZOOLOGICAL DEPARTMENT, BRITISH MUSEUM. + +Among the very numerous Insects and Crustacea, collected by Mr. +Macgillivray during the voyage of the Rattlesnake, the following have +been selected for illustration; references to and descriptions of some of +the Diptera, Homoptera, and Hemiptera, collected by him, have appeared in +the Catalogues of the British Museum drawn up hy Messrs. Walker and +Dallas, while the names and descriptions of others will appear in +catalogues in preparation. A fine species of the class Crustacea, +discovered by him, has been described and figured in the Illustrated +Proceedings of the Zoological Society. (Cancer [Galene] dorsalis, White.) + +INSECTS. COLEOPTERA. + +Chrysodema pistor, Laporte and Gory. Buprestidae, t. 6, f. 33. + +Habitat: Australia (Cape Upstart). Mr. Macgillivray informs me, that the +specimens of this species were observed by him coming out of a dead tree +(Casuarina). + +Pachyrhynchus stanleyanus.* Tab. 4 fig. 1, 2. + +(*Footnote. In memoriam Owen Stanley, in classe Britannica Navarchi, +species haec distincta et peculiaris nominatur.) + +Pachyrhynchus nigerrimus, maculis parvis squamosis plurimis +viridiscenti-albidis. + +Habitat: Pariwara Islands, New Guinea. Four specimens. + +Head between the eyes somewhat rugose, some of the rugose punctures with +pale greenish white scales; an abbreviated longitudinal impressed line +down the front. Beak short and thick (somewhat as in Pachyrhynchus +cumingii, Waterhouse). Thorax irregularly and somewhat coarsely +punctured, the sides somewhat wrinkled in front, the punctures scaled, a +triangular depression on the posterior part of thorax, the bottom is +covered with scales, at least in some specimens, and there are three +spots similarly scaled and placed somewhat transversely: the Elytra with +eight to ten punctured lines, running somewhat irregularly, especially +towards the sides, each elytra with ten, twelve, or more spots of scales, +arranged longitudinally in spots on the sides, and largest towards the +end. Underside of the mesothorax and metathorax with many greenish +scales. Legs thick, polished, and with scattered grey hairs proceeding +from the punctures. + +I have named this somewhat mourning Pachyrhynchus after Captain Owen +Stanley and his father, the late venerable Bishop of Norwich and +President of the Linnean Society. Both of these gentlemen were fond of +natural history, especially the father, who was a good observer of the +habits of birds. The son, Captain Owen Stanley, was an accurate, though +not very practised draughtsman; and I recollect with pleasure his +pointing out to me, at one of the soirees at Brook Street, a volume of +sketches (coloured) made by him on one of his voyages, in which objects +of natural history were ably introduced. He encouraged natural history +researches. + +HYMENOPTERA. + +Trigonalys compressus. Smith. Trans. Ent. Soc. Lond. n. ser. 1. p. ---- +pl. 16. f. 2. + +Sphex compressa. De Geer. Mem. 3. + +Trigonalys bipustulatus. Smith (olim) Ann. and Mag. Nat. Hist. 7 1851. + +Habitat: Nest of Polistes lanio. Brazil. + +Among the Hymenoptera, few genera have created greater dispute than the +anomalous genus Trigonalys of Westwood. Mr. Macgillivray one day brought +to the British Museum the nest of a Brazilian Polistes. My friend, Mr. +Frederick Smith, is well known for his profound knowledge of the +Hymenoptera, Exotic and British, which, though he has studied them ONLY +fourteen years, are better known to him, perhaps, than to any other +living Entomologist; the instant that he looked at the nest, he +exclaimed, "Why, here is Trigonalys!" and certainly a large, black-headed +creature, not very like Polistes, protruded from one of the cells. Mr. +Smith, on the 7th April, 1851, communicated this piece of information to +the Entomological Society of London, and in their Transactions his brief +memoir was lately printed. I cannot do better than give it in Mr. Smith's +own words. Mr. Smith, subsequently to the reading of the paper, +ascertained that the species had been described in the great work of De +Geer, a book of which it would be well to have a condensed new edition. +Mr. Smith says: + +"John Macgillivray, Esquire, Naturalist to Her Majesty's Ship +Rattlesnake, lately presented to the British Museum the nest of a South +American species of Polistes, which he says is very abundant at St. +Salvador, where even in the streets it attaches its nest under the eaves +of houses; the species is the Polistes lanio of Fabricius, and in all +probability the Vespa canadensis of Linnaeus; a specimen of the species +is preserved in the Banksian Cabinet. On examining the nest, I found it +consisted as usual of a single comb of cells, having in the centre at the +back a short footstalk, by which the nests are attached in their +position; the comb contained sixty-five cells, the outer ones being in an +unfinished state, whilst twenty-two of the central ones had remains of +exuviae in them, and one or two closed cells contained perfect insects +ready to emerge; about half a dozen of the wasps had the anterior portion +of their bodies buried in the cells, in the manner in which these insects +are said to repose. In one cell I observed the head of an insect +evidently of a different species, it being black and shining. On +extricating it, I discovered it to be a species of Trigonalys; I +subsequently carefully expanded the insect, and it proved to be the +Trigonalys bipustulatus, described by myself in the Ann. and Mag. of +Natural History, volume 7 2nd Series, 1851, from a specimen captured at +Para by Mr. Bates, now in the possession of William Wilson Saunders, +Esquire. The insect was not enveloped in any pellicle, nor had the cell +been closed in any way; the wings were crumpled up at its side, as is +usual in Hymenopterous insects which have not expanded them, proving +satisfactorily that it had never quitted the cell, and that Trigonalys is +the parasite of Polistes. + +"This discovery is one of much interest, proving the relationship of the +insect to be amongst the pupivora, to which family it had been previously +assigned by Mr. Westwood, see Volume 3 Ent. Transactions page 270. The +specimen is seven lines in length, entirely black, the head shining, the +thorax and abdomen opaque, and having two white maculae touching the +apical margin of the basal segment above; the wings are smoky, the +antennae broken off. Of one of them I found subsequently seventeen +joints--the perfect insect in the possession of Mr. Saunders having +twenty joints." + +LEPIDOPTERA. + +Drusilla myloecha, Tab. 4 fig. 3, 4. + +This fine butterfly* was found flying in considerable plenty in the woods +of one of the islands of the Louisiade Archipelago; it forms a very +interesting addition to a genus, of which but few species are known, and +is allied to the Drusilla catops of Dr. Boisduval, described and figured +in the Voyage de l'Astrolabe. The upper sides of the wings of the +Drusilla myloecha are of pure white with a silky lustre, the front edge +of the fore wings margined with deep brown both above and below; in the +male there is a slender white line on the upper side running close to the +edge, and extending beyond the middle of it; the two discoidal veins in +the male are brown on the upper side, and the edge of the upper side of +the lower wings is brown. The under side of the lower wings has a dark +brown band at the base, widest close to the attachment of the wing and +narrowing to a large ocellus which it surrounds in the form of a narrow +brown ring; the black ocellus has a very small white pupil with a slight +bluish crescent on the inside, and is surrounded by a fulvous ring; thcre +is a second black ocellus nearer the hind edge than the middle, with a +small white pupil and a wideish fulvous ring, separated from the white of +the wing by a narrow brown ring; head, antennae, legs, and thorax in +front brown; palpi fulvous. + +The figures are of the size of nature, and carefully drawn by Mr. Wing. + +(*Footnote. Described (but not figured) by Mr. Westwood, in the +Transactions of the Entomological Society of London, New Series, Volume 1 +page 175 1851, from Mr. M.'s specimens in the British Museum. Mr. W. felt +anxious to describe this striking Drusilla.) + +Eusemia mariana, Tab. 4 fig. 5. + +E. alis coerulescenti-nigris; anticis albo-fasciatis et maculatis, +posticis croceo-maculatis.* + +(*Footnote. Filiae meae "Marian Frances White," speciem hanc pulchram +d.d. descriptor.) + +Upper wings black, with a slight bluish tinge; a wide band extends across +the wing before the middle; it is white with a slight yellowish tint, at +the lower edge of the wing it is abruptly narrowed; behind the middle of +the wing, and between it and the tip, are from five to six pale yellowish +white spots, the four or five outermost the smallest, and one or two of +them sometimes obsolete; between the base and the band a narrow bluish +grey line extends across the wing, and behind the band, at an equal +distance, there is another short, waved, bluish grey line running down to +the inner margin. The margins of the band and spots are bluish grey. The +lower wing is narrowly black at the base, with a transverse band of a +king's yellow colour; this is the widest on the inner edge, near its +outer end there is an angular black spot; the apical half of the wing is +black, with numerous king's yellow spots arranged in two lines, two spots +about the middle connected and notched with black. Head, thorax, and base +of abdomen black, rest of abdomen of a king's yellow colour. + +Mr. Macgillivray took two specimens of this fine species. One flew on +board when the ship was to the north of Cape Weymouth; the other was +taken at Cape York: the figure is of the natural size. + +Cocytia durvillii, Boisd. Monog. des Zygenides, t. 1, fig. 1. + +This is an abundant species in the Louisiade Archipelago, flying on shore +in the daytime among trees (as D'Urville remarked it did in New Guinea); +and it frequently came on board the Rattlesnake, even when distant from +the shore two or three miles. It flies heavily like a moth, and is easily +caught. This beautiful insect is one of the finest found by Mr. +Macgillivray. Only three specimens are recorded: those discovered by +Admiral d'Urville, and described by Dr. Boisduval; Mr. M. brought home +two, deposited with the rest of his collection in the British Museum. + +CRUSTACEA. MALACOSTRACA: DECAPODA. + +Ommatocarcinus macgillivrayi. Tab. 5 fig. 1. + +Carapace more than twice as wide as long; the sides in front extended +into a long slightly bent spine. The frontal portion between the pedicles +of the eyes is narrow, much as in Macrophthalmus, it slopes down towards +the mouth, and is deeply notched at the sides for the reception of the +eyes; the fore-edge is doubly notched in the middle, there being a slight +tooth between the emarginations. The epistome not so prominent as the +lower margin of the orbit; the inner antennae, with the basal joint, long +(the others broken off). The eye-pedicles very long and cylindrical, +thickest at the base, slightly bent, somewhat thickened towards the end, +so long, that, when bent back, the eye extends a little beyond the end of +the spine. Mouth formed nearly as in Gonoplax, the third joint of the +jaw-feet wider than long. Abdomen seven-jointed, the first joint scarcely +visible, shaped much as in Gonoplax, but rather wider, the base of the +terminal joint longer than the sides. Anterior legs two and a half times +as long as the Carapace, measuring it from spine to spine, the arm long +and triangular, the upper portion more or less thickly covered with small +papillae, and having a nearly obliterated spine about the middle; the +wrist smooth, roundish, with a large blunt tooth on the inside; hands +somewhat flattened, widest at the base of the claws, with a broad ridge +on the inside, the edge of it rough with small papillae; the upper edge +of hand rough with small papillae; the claws lap over each other at the +tips, and are irregularly toothed on the inside; the fixed claw of the +right hand bent at the base, so as to leave a considerable space when the +other is closed upon it; upper part of arm, hand, and movable claw pretty +thickly spotted with red, epistome orbits and greater part of the upper +surface of carapace spotted with red, sides and hind part of carapace +white; upper edge of the orbit covered with small papillae; a tolerably +prominent ridge extends across the carapace before the middle. Four hind +pairs of legs long, slender, compressed, the upper edges of the second +and third pairs fringed with hairs, as well as the lower edge of the two +terminal joints, the claws long, thin, and somewhat bent. + +Habitat: Port Curtis. Shoal water, mudbanks. + +This fine Crustacean is allied to Gonoplax and Curtonotus; and being one +of the most prominent species sent home by Mr. Macgillivray, is selected +for description here; the figure is of the size of nature. + +Porcellanella triloba. Tab. 5 fig. 2. + +Carapace somewhat flattened, the front produced into three large teeth or +lobes; the intermediate the widest and most prominent; the sides of the +outer lobes rounded before the eye; carapace longer than wide, widest a +little behind the insertion of the antennae, the upper surface smooth, +polished, with some transverse scratched lines, which are slight and +irregular, they are most observable in front and on the sides, behind it +is somewhat notched in the middle. External antennae long, longer than +twice the breadth of the carapace, inserted in a sinus behind the eye, +the basal portion formed of three joints, the first projecting beyond the +sides of the carapace, the second wider and longer than the first, third +short and thick at the end; the terminal part of antennae long, +thread-like, and formed of very numerous articulations; the eyes large, +and with a short pedicel. Anterior legs long and smooth, the pincers +overlapping each other at the end, their inner edge rough, scarcely +toothed; from before the base of the inside of the movable claw a +thickish line of hairs extends about halfway down the hands, which bulge, +and are rounded on the inside, but on the outside are straightish or +slightly waved, and rather sharply keeled; the second, third, and fourth +pairs of legs are somewhat compressed, and terminate in claws with four +longish hooks on the inside; posterior pair of legs folded over the back, +narrow, with the second joint somewhat bent upwards. + +This curious species was dredged by Mr. Macgillivray off Cape Capricorn, +in latitude 23 degrees 25 minutes South longitude 151 degrees 12 minutes +East in 15 fathoms, the bottom being muddy sand and shells. It is allied +to the species of the second section of the genus Porcellana, as detailed +by Professor Milne Edwards in the second volume of the Histoire Naturelle +des Crustaces, but has characters sufficient to constitute a new +subgenus, to which may be applied the name Porcellanella. The figure +represents it of twice its natural size. + +P.S. The figures have been carefully drawn from the originals by Mr. +William Wing, so well known as a Zoological Draughtsman, and will at once +explain my imperfect descriptions. + +THE END. + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Voyage Of H.M.S. Rattlesnake, Vol. 2 +(of 2), by John MacGillivray + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK VOYAGE OF H.M.S. 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