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+<title>The Project Gutenberg eBook of The Adventures of a Forty-niner, by Daniel Knower</title>
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+<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 12518 ***</div>
+<h1>The Project Gutenberg eBook, The Adventures of a Forty-niner, by Daniel
+Knower</h1>
+<br>
+<br>
+<center><b>E-text prepared by the Project Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team</b></center>
+<br>
+<br>
+<hr class="full" noshade>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<h1>THE ADVENTURES OF A FORTY-NINER.</h1>
+<br>
+<h3>AN HISTORIC DESCRIPTION OF CALIFORNIA, WITH EVENTS AND IDEAS OF
+SAN FRANCISCO AND ITS PEOPLE IN THOSE EARLY DAYS.</h3>
+<h2>By DANIEL KNOWER.</h2>
+<h4>1894</h4>
+<br>
+<br>
+<br>
+<p>DEDICATED TO Colonel Jonathan Stevenson, Colonel John C.
+Freemont, and Captain John A. Sutter,</p>
+<br>
+<p>THE THREE PRE-EMINENT PIONEERS OF CALIFORNIA.</p>
+<br>
+<center><img src="./images/illus004a.png" height="450" width="347"
+alt=" DANIEL KNOWER."></center>
+<br>
+<h2>Table of Contents</h2>
+<a href="#PREFACE"><b>PREFACE.</b></a><br>
+<a href="#CALPIONEER"><b>THE CALIFORNIA PIONEER
+SOCIETY.</b></a><br>
+<a href="#ADVENTURES"><b>THE ADVENTURES OF A
+FORTY-NINER.</b></a><br>
+<a href="#HISTORICAL"><b>A FEW HISTORICAL ITEMS.</b></a><br>
+<a href="#HIS_STORY"><b>HIS STORY.</b></a><br>
+<a href="#GAMBLING"><b>THE GAMBLING OF THAT DAY.</b></a><br>
+<a href="#GRIZZLY"><b>THE GRIZZLY BEARS.</b></a><br>
+<a href="#BLANKET"><b>MY BLANKET MAN.</b></a><br>
+<a href="#TENT"><b>THE MAN IN HIS TENT.</b></a><br>
+<a href="#CLIPPER"><b>THE CLIPPER SHIPS.</b></a><br>
+<a href="#BULL"><b>A BULL FIGHT.</b></a><br>
+<a href="#HOME"><b>HOME SICKNESS.</b></a><br>
+<a href="#JESUIT"><b>JESUIT MISSION STATIONS.</b></a><br>
+<a href="#PACIFIC"><b>SCENES ON THE PACIFIC OCEAN.</b></a><br>
+<a href="#PERORATION"><b>PERORATION.</b></a><br>
+<a href="#DEATH"><b>DEATH OF A FORMER SCHOHARIAN.</b></a><br>
+<a href="#APPENDIX"><b>APPENDIX.</b></a><br>
+<hr>
+<a name="PREFACE"></a>
+<h2>PREFACE.</h2>
+<p>The discovery of gold in California, in 1848, with its other
+mineral resources, including the Alamada quicksilver mine at San
+Jos&eacute;, which is an article of first necessity in working gold
+or silver ore; and the great silver mines of Nevada, in 1860, the
+Comstock lode, in which, in ten years, from five to eight hundred
+millions of gold and silver were taken out, a larger amount than
+was ever taken from one locality before, the Alamada quicksilver
+mine being the second most productive of any in the world, the one
+in Spain being the largest, said to be owned by the Rothschilds.
+Its effect upon the general prosperity and development of our
+country has been immense, almost incalculable. Before these
+discoveries the amount of gold in the United States was estimated
+at about seventy millions, now it is conceded to be seven hundred
+millions. The Northern Pacific coast was then almost unpopulated.
+California a territory three times as large as New York and Oregon
+and the State of Washington, all now being cultivated and
+containing large and populous cities, and railroads connecting them
+with the East. Why that country should have remained uninhabited
+for untold ages, where universal stillness must have prevailed as
+far as human activity is concerned, is one of the unfathomable
+mysteries of nature. It is only one hundred and twenty-five years
+since the Bay of San Francisco was first discovered, one of the
+grandest harbors in the world, being land-locked, extending thirty
+miles, where all the vessels of the world could anchor in safety.
+The early pioneers of those two years immediately after the gold
+was discovered (of which I am writing) are passing away. As Ossian
+says, "People are like the waves of the ocean, like the leafs of
+woody marvin that pass away in the rustling blast, and other leaves
+lift up their green heads." There is probably not five per cent of
+the population of California to-day, of those days, scenes and
+events of which I have tried to portray. Another generation have
+taken their places who can know but little of those times except by
+tradition. I, being one of the pioneers, felt it a duty, or an
+inspiration seemed to come over me as an obligation I owed to
+myself and compatriots of those times, to do what I could to
+perpetuate the memory of them to some extent in the history of our
+country as far as I had the ability to do it.</p>
+<p>THE AUTHOR.</p>
+<br>
+<a name="CALPIONEER"></a>
+<h2>THE CALIFORNIA PIONEER SOCIETY.</h2>
+<p>The California Pioneer Society was organized in August, 1850.
+The photograph of their building appears on the cover of this book,
+W.D.M. Howard was their first president. Among their early
+presidents, and prominent in the days of Forty-niners, were Samuel
+Branan, Thomas Larkins, Wm. D. Farewell, and James Lick&mdash;who
+liberally endowed it.</p>
+<center><img src="./images/illus008a.png" height="450" width="344"
+alt=" BUILDING OF THE SOCIETY OF CALIFORNIA PIONEERS."></center>
+<p>It was organized for the purpose of perpetuating the memory of
+the events of those days and for the benefit and mutual protection
+of its members. No person was eligible for membership except he had
+arrived in California before the 1st of January, 1850, and the
+descendants of Forty-niners when arriving at the age of twenty-one
+are eligible. At the opening of the World's Fair in San Francisco
+in January last, in the ceremonies in the marching of the
+procession through the streets of the city, they were received with
+the greatest enthusiasm and cheers, which was a marked
+manifestation of the veneration in which they are held by the
+people of California.</p>
+<br>
+<a name="ADVENTURES"></a>
+<h2>THE ADVENTURES OF A FORTY-NINER.</h2>
+<p>The writer was practising his profession in the city of Albany,
+his native place, in 1848, when reports came of the discovery of
+gold in California. In a short time samples of scales of the metal
+of the river diggings were on exhibition, sent to friends in the
+city in letters. Many of Colonel Stevenson's regiment had been
+recruited in that city. Soon these rumors were exaggerated. It was
+said that barrels of gold were dug by individuals named. Soon the
+excitement extended all over the country, and the only barrier to
+wealth, it seemed, was the difficulty of getting to the Eldorado.
+Why the discovery of gold there should have produced so much
+excitement cannot be fathomed. It seemed an era in human affairs,
+like the Crusades and other events of great importance that occur.
+Your correspondent became one of its votaries, and organized a
+company to go to the gold rivers and secure a fortune for all
+interested in it, and it seemed all that was required was to get
+there and return in a short time and ride in your carriage and
+astonish your friends with your riches. Suffice it to say, this
+company was fully organized (with its by-laws and system of
+government drawn up by the writer), and sailed from the port of New
+York on the ship <i>Tarrolinter</i> on the 13th of January, 1849,
+to go around Cape Horn, arriving in San Francisco on the following
+July. From that time I became absorbed in all the news from the
+gold regions, and losing confidence somewhat in the certainty of a
+fortune from my interest in the company, and reading of the high
+price of lumber, the scarcity of houses, and the extraordinary high
+wages of mechanics there, conceived the project of shipping the
+materials for some houses there, having all the work put on them
+here that could be done, thus saving the difference in wages, and
+to have them arrive there before the rainy season set in, and thus
+realize the imaginary fortune that I had expected from my interest
+in the company. In the following spring I had twelve houses
+constructed. The main point upon which my speculation seemed to
+rest was to get them to San Francisco before the rainy season
+commenced. I went to New York to secure freight for them in the
+fastest vessel. Fortunately for me, as I conceived at the time, I
+found the day before I arrived in New York, the <i>Prince de
+Joinville,</i> a Havre packet ship, had been put up to sail for the
+port of San Francisco, and as yet had engaged no freight. I made a
+bargain with them at once to take my houses at sixty cents per
+square foot, and had the contract signed, half to be delivered at
+the side of the ship by such a date and the other half at a
+subsequent date. I delivered the first half of the houses on the
+time agreed, sending them down the Hudson river by a barge on a
+tow. I sent the second half on a barge to get there on the day they
+were due, apprehending no trouble, I going down myself a few days
+in advance. They commenced complaining at the ship that they would
+not have room for the balance of my houses on board, although I had
+their written contract to take them at sixty cents per foot.</p>
+<p>There was great California excitement about this time, and other
+parties had come to the conclusion that the <i>Prince de
+Joinville</i> was probably the fastest ship taking freight for San
+Francisco. I saw them accept of offers at $1.50 per foot, when
+their contract with me was for less than half that price, which
+would make a difference of several thousand dollars in their favor.
+So, if the balance of my houses did not arrive within the time
+stated in the contract, they would not be taken on that vessel, and
+my speculation ruined. The time was up the next day at twelve
+o'clock. I was down on the Battery the next morning early watching
+for the tow, with the barge with my houses. The ship was at the
+dock in the East river. About ten o'clock, A.M., I had the good
+fortune to see the barge rounding the Battery. I cried out to the
+captain to cut loose from the tow, employ the first steam tug and I
+would pay the bill, which he did, getting on the side of the vessel
+by eleven o'clock, thus saving my contract by one hour. But they
+did not commence taking them on board, so the captain of the barge
+put a demurrage of $20 per day for detention. In the meantime, I
+had bought my ticket to sail by the steamer <i>Georgia</i> to the
+Isthmus to go on the 1st of July which was but a few days off.
+They, seeing that I had them on my contract, came to me and said
+that my houses should go on their ship according to contract, if
+they had to throw other freight out, and that they would sign a
+regular bill of lading for all the material deliverable to me upon
+the arrival of the <i>Prince de Joinville</i> at the port of San
+Francisco, and take my carpenters' specifications for the
+description of them, which seemed all right to me.</p>
+<p>The following is an article from the <i>Albany Evening Atlas</i>
+of June 23, 1849:</p>
+<div class="blkquot">
+<p>"CALIFORNIA HOUSES.</p>
+<p>"Our estimable fellow citizen Dr. Knower, who is to start for
+California by the Crescent City <i>via</i> Panama, is about to ship
+to that place twelve houses, complete and ready to put up on
+arrival at San Francisco. The venture is a costly one, the freight
+on the material approaching the cost of as many frame buildings in
+this quarter, and the projector, we think, has managed the
+speculation with great foresight and judgment. The best timber has
+been selected, and the best work men employed, and a plan of
+architecture pursued, which is supposed to offer the greatest
+advantages with the most economical expenditures of material. Four
+of these buildings are 18 feet front and 25 feet deep. A partition
+running lengthways divides the buildings into two rooms, and the
+stairs leads to a second platform, which is large enough for
+bedrooms, or for storing materials and tools of miners. Two others
+are 18 feet front and 18 feet deep, with a small extension in the
+rear of 8 feet. Two are 16 feet in front and 22 feet deep, with the
+entrance on the gable front; and the four others are 18 feet front
+by 14 deep. The sides of the building will be composed of a double
+framework of boards planed, grooved and tongued, fitting air tight
+on each side of the timber, the interval between them being either
+filled with the moss of the country or left vacant, the confined
+column of the air being found sufficient to keep off the excess of
+cold or heat. The roofs of all the buildings shed from the front,
+except two of which are of gable shape. The roofs are to be made of
+solid, close-fitting planks, covered with fine ticking and coated
+with the patent indestructible fire-proof paint, and applications
+which our citizens have just begun to use here, and which they
+have, found entirely successful.</p>
+<p>"The houses can be easily transported to the placers or may be
+put up on the sea-board. We should suppose that the numerous
+land-owners who are speculating on the prospects of future cities
+would be glad to give the land necessary for the location of this
+village.</p>
+<p>"The houses go by the <i>Prince de Joinville</i>, a first-class
+vessel, which leaves New York soon."</p>
+</div>
+<p>I sailed on the steamer which left New York at 5 P.M., July 1,
+1849. Friends were there to see me off, but there were no persons
+on the boat that I had ever seen before&mdash;I was wondering who
+would be my first acquaintance.</p>
+<p>Being very tired, I retired soon to my berth, and woke up the
+next morning on the broad ocean. Two days of sea sickness and I was
+all right again. There were about one thousand passengers from all
+parts of our country. I tried to fathom the motives and standing of
+different ones. Colonel B. from Kentucky, an aristocratic-looking
+man, with his slave for a body servant, who could not have been
+bought for less than $1,500 in Kentucky, where slavery existed at
+that time. Why a man in his circumstances should be going to
+California to seek gold I could not fathom. One day a party of us
+were seated around the table talking matters over. It was proposed
+that each should reveal to the others what he expected to do and
+his motives for the expedition. We each related our expectations
+and the motives that had inspired us. My aristocratic friend was
+one of the party. My curiosity was at its height to know his views.
+He said: "Well, gentlemen, you have all been candid in your
+statements, and I shall be the same; I am going to California to
+deal Faro, the great American gambling game, and I don't care who
+knows it."</p>
+<p>Later on in my narrative, I shall have occasion to refer to
+Colonel B. again under other circumstances. The fourth day out
+being the fourth of July, was duly celebrated on the steamer in
+true American style. Our course was to the east of Cuba. We passed
+in sight of the green hills of San Domingo to our left, and in
+sight of Jamaica to our right, crossing the Caribbean sea, whose
+grand, gorgeous sunsets I shall never forget. I could not buy a
+ticket in New York for the steamer from Panama to San Francisco,
+but was informed at the office in New York that sixty tickets were
+for sale in Panama by Zackery, Nelson &amp; Co., the American
+Consul, who were agents for the steamer on the Pacific side. I
+naturally supposed that those who offered their money first for
+those tickets could buy them. The price was $300 for the first
+cabin, and $150 for the second, from Panama to San Francisco; but a
+fraction of the passengers had a ticket for the Pacific side.</p>
+<p>The objective point was to get to Panama to secure a ticket, so
+I made an arrangement with four others; three were to take charge
+of the baggage of the five, and take it leisurely, and Lieutenant
+M., of South Carolina, and myself were selected to run an express
+across the Isthmus and get there ahead of the other passengers and
+secure tickets for the five, and try and be the first to land at
+Chagres. We came to anchor in the bay. The captain announced that
+no passengers would be permitted to go ashore until the government
+officials had inspected the vessel. A boat came from shore with the
+officials. After a short stay the officials went down the side of
+the steamer to their boat to return to the shore. There was a guard
+to keep all but the proper persons from getting into the boat. I
+had a small carpet bag in my hand, passed the guard, slipped a $5
+gold piece in his hands, and took my seat in the boat, and, of
+course, passed as one of the officials, and was the first passenger
+to land from the steamer. The first point to be made was to secure
+a boat for passage up the Chagres river. I was recommended to
+Colonel P., who was the head man in that business there. He was a
+colonel in the Granadian army. I found him a full-blooded African,
+but an active business man in his way. I got his price for a boat
+and two of his best men, and then offered double the price if they
+would row night and day, and an extra present to the men if they
+made good time, for every thing seemed to depend on securing those
+tickets on the Pacific side. By the time I had all my arrangements
+made, Lieutenant M. made his appearance. He said he was the second
+passenger that landed from the steamer. Then behold us in what they
+called a dug-out, a boat somewhat similar to a canoe, with a little
+canopy over the center that you could crawl under to lay down with
+the two naked natives, with the exception of a cloth around their
+loins, neither understanding each other's language, to whom we
+could only communicate by signs. At 4 P.M., starting for Gorgona,
+fifty-five miles up the river, where we were to land and take mules
+for Panama. Eight miles was the first stopping place. We felt
+elated that we had got so good a start of all the other passengers.
+The denseness of the vegetation first attracted our attention on
+the banks of the river. The trees, the vines, the shrubbery, the
+vines clinging to the trees, hanging in all fantastic shapes, it
+seemed to be impenetrable, an ocean of green, unlike any thing we
+had ever seen before.</p>
+<p>Early in the evening we arrived at the first stopping place,
+eight miles on our way up the river, where we both made ourselves
+at home, excited at the strangeness of the scene, surrounded by the
+thatched huts of the natives, who were having a dance on the square
+in the village. After we had been there an hour, we thought our men
+had their rest, and it was time to go on according to our contract,
+to be rowed night and day.</p>
+<p>In the meantime it seems the natives had taken some offense at
+Lieutenant M.'s familiarity, and they appeared with handles of long
+knives projecting back of their necks in a threatening manner. We
+likewise learned that that was the home of one of our men, and that
+he proposed to stay there all night in violation of the contract.
+So we had a consultation to decide what to do to get away. It was
+pitch dark; we laid our plan. Lieutenant M. beckoned one of the men
+away from the dance as if he wanted to give him something, and drew
+his pistol on him and marched him down to the boat, while I, with a
+pistol, kept him there while he went for the other man.</p>
+<p>After a while he came with him and we got them both in the boat
+and started. About this time there was a storm came up with the
+rain, and thunder and lightning, as the elements can only perform
+in that way in the tropics, surrounded by impenetrable darkness,
+and to us an unknown river, with its serpents and alligators, with
+our two naked savages, that we only got in the boat by force, and,
+of course, could not feel very friendly toward us. Expecting to be
+fired on from the shore, if they could see us through the darkness,
+we took our departure from our first landing place on the Chagres
+river, surrounded by romance enough to satisfy the most romantic
+imagination in that line. Our men kept steadily to work. After a
+while the clouds broke away, the moon showed itself, and we made
+good progress that night. We had no trouble with our men after
+that. The colonel at Chagres had evidently given us his best man.
+They found that we were masters of the situation and it was for
+their interest to submit. We treated them kindly after that, and
+all went well, for we passed every boat we came to. I shall never
+forget the look of despair at two Frenchmen, evidently gentlemen,
+as we went by them, and they informed us the length of time they
+had been coming up the river, and that they could do nothing with
+their men. That afternoon we came in sight of a thatched hut on the
+banks, evidently a ranch. We thought it for our interest to rest.
+We saw a man whom we took for the proprietor, entirely naked,
+rubbing his back against a post. On landing and approaching him he
+excused himself for a short time, and returned dressed, walking
+with the air of a lord of a manor, which dress consisted of a
+coarse bagging shirt, coming down to his knees. We arrived the next
+day at 11 A.M., at Gorgona, and took our dinner at the hotel kept
+by the Alcalde of the place, and bargained with him for a guide and
+three mules to continue our journey to Panama. As soon as our
+guides and mules were ready, about 1 P.M., we started for Panama.
+We soon got enough of our mules by being thrown a number of times
+over their heads. They did not understand our language. "Get up and
+go along," was Greek to them, but when the guide said "mula vamous"
+they knew what it meant. On reaching the place where we were to
+stay all night, we arose in the morning refreshed, but concluded to
+leave our mules and make the rest of the way a-foot, as we
+considered them a nuisance, and as we had no baggage but my little
+satchel previously referred to, in which I had bills of lading of
+my houses, they being consigned to me, the specifications of my
+carpenter's schedule, my letters and a gold chronometer watch,
+worth $250, belonging to H., a broker in New York, a friend, and a
+bottle of the best brandy, which he presented to me to keep off the
+fever in crossing the Isthmus. This bag I handed to the guide boy,
+about seventeen years of age, taking out the brandy bottle. The
+watch I was to sell, for he had two nephews who had gone to
+California, and if they were in need, to supply their wants. I did
+not meet them; sold the watch for $500 to Mr. Haight, one of the
+owners of the Miners' Bank in San Francisco, and remitted the money
+to my friend, so I shall not refer to the watch again.</p>
+<p>We were walking on at a free pace, our guide boy following
+behind. Looking back after awhile we could not see him. We stopped
+and waited some time, but he did not come, so we thought we would
+go on and he would follow. The result was we lost our way and
+craved for a sight of the Pacific ocean with all the ardor that
+Gilboa could have done, the first Spanish discoverer of it, and on
+the same route, after our wanderings all day, almost without hope,
+until four in the afternoon, we came to a stream of water;
+oppressed with the heat of the tropics and fatigued I threw myself
+in the water. Lieutenant M. exclaimed: "Do not give up in that
+way." "I am not giving up," I replied; "only refreshing myself." In
+a short time he did the same thing. As we lay there we thought we
+heard voices. In looking back who should we see but one of our
+countrymen, the most gladdening sight to us. We felt saved at once.
+We asked him if he had any provision. He said he thought not. Then
+he said one of his companions might have a little piece of ham left
+and some crackers. He said there were three of them, and they would
+soon be there, and when they came one of them had some bacon and a
+few crackers, which he gave to us. The eating of it soon refreshed
+us. As I had some of the brandy left in the bottle, I extended it
+to them, which they were very glad to receive. Explanations ensued.
+We, by chance, had struck the Crusos road, and were but ten miles
+from Panama. They had come from Philadelphia in a brig, and had
+started across from Crusos, the head of boating on the Chagres
+river, and had been from two to three weeks getting so far across
+the Isthmus, and were perfectly astonished at the rapidity with
+which we had come. So we joined them and arrived in Panama that
+evening. Lieutenant M. and myself were the first of the one
+thousand passengers of the <i>Georgia</i> to enter the city. The
+office of the agents of the Pacific steamers was closed. I went,
+the first thing in the morning, to purchase the five tickets for
+our party. Alas for human expectation! I was informed it would be
+several weeks before the steamer would sail. She had not yet
+returned from the first trip to San Francisco. They said there were
+but sixty tickets for sale, and they would not be offered until a
+few days before the departure of the steamer. Of course, all we
+could do was to abide our chances of getting them. The city was
+walled around and dyked like those of the Middle Ages. Toward the
+bay the wall was one hundred feet high by twenty broad. The city
+had been on the decline for most a hundred years. We could see the
+ruins of what it once had been. At one time Spain owned all South
+America, Mexico, California, Louisiana and Florida. Panama was the
+only port of entry on the Pacific coast, and controlled its
+commerce. As you enter the gates of the walled city there is a
+chapel just inside, where the lights are always burning on its
+altars. The first thing on entering all good Catholics enter, kneel
+and make their devotions, seeking the protection of the patron
+saint of the city. The head alcalder of the city was a Castilian
+Spaniard, a venerable-looking gentleman, white as any Northern man,
+evidently of Scandinavian descent, who ages back conquered Spain
+and divided the land up among themselves and became its nobility,
+from whom the present rulers of Spain are descendants. It is said
+that when conquered, the original inhabitants of Spain, to a great
+extent, fled to their vessels, put to sea, and found the island of
+Ireland, from which the present inhabitants are descendants. The
+second alcalder was a negro as black as I have ever seen.</p>
+<p>In the city of Panama in its days of prosperity, when under
+Spain, the higher classes must have lived in great luxuries, the
+negroes their slaves. The natives the peons were in a condition
+similar to slavery, they could not leave the land as long as they
+owed any thing. But the despotism of old Spain became so great that
+when they struck for freedom, all classes united. They gave freedom
+to the negroes and the peons, and even the priests of the Catholic
+church had been so tyrannized over by the mother church in Spain
+that they joined the revolutionists and all classes are represented
+in the government. I called at a watchmaker's to have a crystal put
+in my watch. Two brothers had furnished rooms like a parlor. I
+could not speak Spanish, nor they English. I could speak a little
+French. I found they could speak it fluently. I asked them where
+they learned it. They said, "At the Jesuit college at Granada."
+Then one, of them, when he learned that I was from the United
+States, went to the piano and played Hail Columbia as a compliment
+to my country, which would trouble most of us to do the same for
+their country.</p>
+<p>There are now great trees growing up in the ruins of what was
+once its great cathedral. The freebooter Morgan is said to have
+plundered one of its altars of a million of gold and silver, and
+massacred many of its inhabitants, perpetrating on them the
+atrocities that their ancestors had upon the original natives. It
+is said that when Pizarro captured Peru and took the Inca, their
+king, prisoner, he issued a decree that if his subjects would fill
+a room with gold, he would release him, which they did. Instead of
+doing it, he sentenced him to be burned at the stake, and only
+commuted it to hanging on condition that he confessed the Christian
+religion. Madam Roland, when she was about to be guillotined in the
+French revolution, exclaimed, "O Liberty, what crimes have been
+committed in thy name." O Christianity, what terrible atrocities
+have been perpetrated in thy name!</p>
+<p>Panama is a healthy city to those acclimated, facing a beautiful
+bay, unlike Chagres, on this side of the Isthmus of Darien, which
+is the most unhealthy spot on this continent. Excuse this
+diversion, I must get back to my subject, the days of the
+forty-niners.</p>
+<p>I stopped at the American Hotel. I was somewhat in a dilapidated
+condition from the experiences of my trip from Chagres. The waiter
+in my room at the hotel took the best of care of me. I soon found
+he was no ordinary waiter. He had resigned a position in Washington
+of $2,000 a year to go to the gold Eldorado. He had been in Panama
+several months, and had been taken down with the fever twice, which
+had exhausted his funds and was working at the hotel for his board,
+but never thought of turning back. He was bound for California. He
+was quite enfeebled from the effects of the fever. He got hold of
+my sympathies and secured my friendship. (More of him anon.) I had
+been here four or five days without seeing our guide, the boy with
+my satchel, containing my valuables, particularly the bills of
+lading of my houses. I was in a quandary and anxiety about it, not
+knowing what to do, when one day as I was going to dinner,
+something pulled my coat from behind, and looking around, what
+should I see to my great joy and satisfaction but the native boy
+with my satchel, contents there all safe. It was an instance of
+honesty that would do honor to any nation. I gave some honest
+Catholic priest credit for it. The boy had evidently been
+instructed what to do.</p>
+<p>The great objective point now was, how to get to San Francisco.
+There was no hope for a sailing vessel from this place, for we saw
+one return for water that had been chartered by a party that had
+been out three weeks, and scarcely got out of sight of the city.
+There is very little chance for a sailing vessel from there until
+they get west several hundred miles, and strike the trade winds.
+The chances were better with the sailing vessel to start from New
+York and go around Cape Horn. So the only hope seemed to be the
+steamer with its sixty tickets and with from one thousand to
+fifteen hundred passengers waiting to buy them, all seeking to
+bring some influence to bear to secure one. I saw in the office of
+the steamer agent a young man, the book-keeper, whom I took a fancy
+to, and sought his acquaintance. I found he was from Hudson, N.Y.,
+and I, from Albany, both from the banks of the Hudson river. It
+ripened into a warm friendship. I explained my situation to him,
+and my desire, if it was possible, to get off on the steamer, but
+did not venture to ask his influence to try and get me a ticket. At
+this time the cholera and Panama fever was raging in full force.
+The acclimatednacclimated Americans were dying in every direction.
+I was conversing at 8 A.M. with a healthy looking man, one of our
+passengers, from New York. At 5 P.M., the same day, I inquired for
+him and was informed that he was dead and buried. He had been
+attacked with the cholera. It was a law of the city that they must
+be buried within one hour after death from a contagious disease. I
+was finally myself taken down with the Panama fever, lay
+unconscious and unnoticed in my room at the hotel for a long time,
+and then came to and found myself burning with the raging fever,
+had a doctor sent for, and after a time recovered so I could
+venture out. In the meantime, the steamer <i>Panama</i> had
+arrived, and its day of sailing for San Francisco announced.
+Zackary, Nelson &amp; Co. had issued an order that the sixty
+tickets would be put up to be drawn for. Those having the winning
+numbers could have the privilege of purchasing them; that they must
+register their names on such a day. Probably one thousand names and
+but sixty tickets. The chances were small, but the only hope. On
+that day, I went early to register, as I was still very weak from
+the effects of the fever, and at my best in the morning. As I
+entered, there was a great number there registering. When my turn
+came, and I was about to put down my name, I looked behind the desk
+and saw my friend, the book-keeper. He shook his head for me not
+to. I knew that meant something favorable. I backed out. I returned
+at once to the hotel. In the evening, about 8 o'clock, my friend
+came to my room with a second cabin ticket. The joys of Paradise
+centered into my possession of that ticket. I asked him how did he
+obtain it? He said he was about to resign his position, and was
+going up on the same steamer to California. The night before the
+drawing he asked Mr. Nelson if his services had been satisfactory
+to him. He said they had. He then said if he should ask him a favor
+on leaving him if he would grant it? He replied certainly. He then
+said that he wanted one of those sixty tickets for a particular
+friend. Mr. Nelson said, "If I had known what you was going to ask
+for, I could not have granted it; but since I have pledged my word,
+I shall give you the ticket."</p>
+<p>The next day passengers would be received on the steamer, which
+was anchored out in the bay, some distance from shore. It was
+announced that no sick persons could go on the steamer. As I was
+quite enfeebled from my sickness, and was at my best in the
+morning, I thought I would make an early start, so as to be sure
+and be aboard, as they were all to be on board the vessel to sail
+early the next morning. I started out for a boat to take me out to
+it with the highest elasticity of feelings, not so much from the
+prospect of financial success as the idea that if I could get North
+again my physical health would be restored, and the steamer was
+going North. It seemed at times that I would have given $1,000 for
+one good breath of Northern air. As I was going along, some
+distance ahead of me, sitting at the doors of a doggery, with his
+head almost between his knees, the picture of despair, was my
+Washington friend, who waited on my room at the hotel when I first
+arrived, did me many favors, and got hold of my sympathies. I said
+to myself, poor fellow, I can do nothing for you. I must not let
+him see me, so I dodged and passed him. When I got some distance by
+him my conscience smote me. I will go back and speak to him; so I
+did. I had advised him a few days previous to go and see some
+officers of the boat and offer to go up as waiter without pay. I
+asked him if he had done so, and what luck? He said there was no
+hope. They told him they had been offered $300 for the privilege of
+going up as waiter. I then told him I had a ticket. I was going
+then for a boat to go on board. That his case was desperate, and
+that desperate cases required desperate remedies; that he had been
+down twice with the fever, and the next time he would probably die;
+that he had no friends there nor money; if he would do as I told
+him I would stand by him and he must have nerve. He said to me:
+"How can a man have nerve without a dollar in his pocket?" which
+exclamation has occurred to me many times since. I asked him to
+hire a boat to get him out to the vessel, and what it would cost.
+He said $2. I gave him the money and told him to get his baggage.
+He said he had none. I told him to come about 11 o'clock and go to
+work among the hands as if he was one of them; that all were new
+hands and officers, and they would not know the difference. He said
+that the captain had said if any person was caught on board without
+a ticket they would be put on shore at the first uninhabited
+island. I told him I would attend to that in his case. I went on
+board and got my berth and baggage all in. About 11 o'clock I saw
+my friend coming over the water making for the vessel. There was
+considerable confusion on board at the time, passengers constantly
+arriving, and he was not noticed, and he went to work among the
+hands as if he had been regularly employed. In a short time the
+officers were arranging the men in line to pass the baggage, and
+said to him: "You stand here and help pass it," of course, taking
+him for one of the men of the boat. In the evening he came and
+spoke to me. I said all right so far. But in the morning, he said,
+they are going to examine every person, then they will put me
+ashore. I said, keep a stiff upper lip. If you get in trouble, come
+to me.</p>
+<p>The next morning the gun fired, the anchor was raised, and we
+sailed down to Bogota, an island similar to Staten Island in the
+New York Harbor. The health officers came out. Then my friend
+trembled and thought the day of judgment had come to him, but the
+health officers were on board but a short time. No examination of
+those on board took place. The signal gun for departure was fired.
+We passed out of the harbor. The bow of our vessel was pointed
+north, and we felt extremely happy. I said to him, "This vessel is
+bound for San Francisco, and you are aboard, and will get there as
+soon as I will." A few days after that the mate was arranging the
+employment of the men, and when he came to my friend's turn he said
+to him, "Who employed you? You are not an able-bodied seaman." He
+made no reply. They could see he was a man of intelligence, and his
+pale look showed he had been sick. It may have moved the sympathies
+of the officer, who said to him, "This vessel is crowded with
+people; it wont do for us to be short of water, and I will put the
+water in your charge, and you must not let any passenger, or even
+the steward, have any except according to the regulations, and if
+you attend to that properly no other services will be required of
+you." That took him off of the anxious seat and put him on the
+solid. In all his adversities he never thought of turning back.
+That commanded my esteem. His attentions to me, when sick, aroused
+my sympathies for him, which good action on his part saved him. Of
+one thousand passengers desirous of getting on that steamer, and
+there was room but for sixty on the day of its departure; his
+chance looked the most hopeless, being penniless, but he was one of
+the fortunate ones, while those who had plenty of money were left.
+It illustrated the old maxim, "Where there is a will there is a
+way."</p>
+<p>Nothing of interest occurred until we got to the port of
+Acupulco, the largest place on the west coast of Mexico. We were
+about to enter the harbor when a government boat with officials
+came out and ordered us to stop. If we proceeded any further there
+would be "matter trouble" in broken English. There were Americans
+on shore who had crossed over from Vera Cruz for the purpose of
+taking this steamer. It would be a month before there would be
+another one, and then there would be no certainty of their getting
+aboard of that. The captain held a consultation of the passengers,
+who all decided to have them come on board. They were our
+countrymen and we would share our berths with them, although the
+vessel was then crowded, and some of the passengers volunteered to
+row ashore with the small boats to bring them aboard, which they
+did. When they approached the shore there was a company of soldiers
+waded in the water with pointed guns, forbidding them to approach
+any nearer. The Americans who were on the bank informed them that
+the soldiers would fire, and warning them not to approach any
+nearer, while bewailing their fate that they had to be left, so
+they returned. Then the captain received notice to leave in half an
+hour or the guns of the fort would open fire on us. It was a bright
+moonlight night. The fort was on a high knoll just above us, and
+could have blown us out of the water. So we thought discretion was
+the better part of valor, and we had to leave. The laws of nations
+were on their side. We were from an infected port, Panama, where
+cholera prevailed.</p>
+<p>On board the steamer were some men of prominence. W.F.
+McCondery, from Boston, a retired East India sea captain, a man of
+wealth, who had been out of business for three years and craved for
+a more exciting life; who started the largest commission-house in
+San Francisco, and had consigned to him about all the shipments
+from Boston, and likewise the <i>Prince de Joinville</i> with my
+houses; Mr. G., from Liverpool, an Englishman, who had about all
+the consignments from that city; Rothschild's nephew, who had
+represented that house as a banker in Valparaiso, Chili, was going
+to establish a branch of those great bankers' house in San
+Francisco; Judge Terry, from Louisiana, who had the reputation at
+that time of being a dead shot with a pistol, who afterward
+challenged United States Senator Broderick to fight a duel, from
+political influences, and killed him, and some years afterward was
+assassinated himself from a disagreement with parties about a
+lawsuit. We came opposite Mazland at the mouth of the Gulf of
+California, and took on board some passengers and freight.</p>
+<p>The next incident in our voyage was when we came in sight of San
+Diego, California, and saw the American flag floating from the flag
+staff. There was an instantaneous shout went up from every American
+on board. We were once more to be under its protection in our own
+country.</p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Love of country, mystic fire from
+heaven,</span><br>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">To light our race up to stateliest
+heights 'tis given.</span><br>
+<p>We were entering the Golden Gate. It was but four miles to the
+harbor where we cast anchor, opposite the city of San Francisco,
+which was the goal of our hopes for so long a time, and which was
+about to be realized; which was also the objective point from
+almost every part of the world where adventurers are seeking to
+get. We had come three thousand, five hundred miles since we left
+Panama. We engaged a row-boat to take us ashore. My friend attended
+to getting my baggage out of the boat, and went with me to the
+shore. He had signed no papers, and entered into no bonds not to
+desert the vessel at San Francisco, as the other sailors had. He
+was free to do as he pleased.</p>
+<p>I had the chills and fever all the way up, from the effects of
+the Panama fever. My first idea was to get in good quarters,
+whatever expense, to regain my health. I was informed that there
+was a good hotel kept by a widow woman on Montgomery street, where
+we landed. Some of the other passengers were going to stop there. I
+inquired the terms. They said $5 per day. I thought I would try it
+for a while. My sleeping-room was a mattress laid on the floor,
+with muslin partitions to separate us from the next room. The table
+was very indifferent, no vegetables, which I required, which we
+lacked on the ship coming up. Being in poor health, I needed them.
+After being there a few days one of our passengers asked me if I
+knew what the charges were. I said yes, $5 per day. He said it was
+more; I had better ask again, which I did. I was informed it was $5
+for the room and extra for the meals. I paid my bill and looked out
+for other quarters. I had brought in my baggage an Indian rubber
+mattress and pillow which was folded up in a small space and could
+be blown up with your breath and filled with air, made a soft bed,
+a pair of new Mackinaw blankets and other things to provide for any
+contingency, and took my meals at a restaurant, which were
+numerous, including the Chinese which we often patronized, and
+found myself satisfactorily quartered. It may not be inappropriate
+to make some general remarks about the history of California.</p>
+<p>Although my subject is strictly on the days of forty-niners,
+which consisted of about two years from the discovery of the gold,
+when it was supposed that the future prosperity of the country
+depended exclusively on the mining interest. How different it has
+turned out since has nothing to do with my subject. I want to try
+to paint to the mind of the reader the condition of California at
+that time, and the views of the pioneers in those days. I am doing
+it in the form of a personal narrative, as it enables me more
+distinctly to recall to my mind the events of those days in which I
+was a participant. Such fluctuations of fortune as then occurred,
+the world never saw before in the same space of time, and probably
+never will again, where common labor was $16 per day. There were
+some very interesting and truthful articles published in the
+<i>Century</i> magazine two years ago from the pen of the pioneers,
+but there has been no book published as a standard work for the
+present and future, and the participants in it are passing away,
+for it is forty-five years since they occurred. California is three
+times larger in territory than the State of New York. Its
+population before the discovery of gold, including Indians and all,
+was but a few thousand. Cattle could be bought for $1 per head, and
+all the land they ranged upon thrown in the bargain for nothing.
+They were killed for their hides, and the meat thrown away, as
+there was no one to eat it.</p>
+<br>
+<a name="HISTORICAL"></a>
+<h2>A FEW HISTORICAL ITEMS.</h2>
+<p>San Francisco bay, first discovered the 25th of October, 1769.
+The first ship that ever entered the harbor was the <i>San
+Carlos</i>, June, 1775. The mission of Dolores founded by the
+Jesuit Fathers in 1769. Colonel Jonathan Stevenson arrived at
+California with one thousand men on the 7th of March, 1847. The
+treaty of Hidalgo ceding California to the United States by Mexico,
+officially proclaimed by the president, July 4, 1848. Gold first
+discovered by Marshall, January 9, 1848. January, 1848, the whole
+white population of California was fourteen thousand, January,
+1849, the population of San Francisco was two thousand. The three
+most prominent publicmen at the time of my arrival in California
+were Colonel Freemont, who had conducted an expedition overland;
+Colonel Stevenson, who came by sea with one thousand men, appointed
+by William L. Marcy, who was secretary of war during the conflict
+with Mexico, from whom I had a letter of introduction as a family
+connection of Governor Marcy, similar to the following letter to
+Brigadier Major-General P.F. Smith, which was not delivered:</p>
+<div class="blkquot">
+<p>ALBANY, <i>June</i> 24, 1849.</p>
+<p>My Dear Sir&mdash;I desire to present to your favorable notice,
+the bearer hereof, Dr. Daniel Knower. He is on the eve of departing
+for California. He is a family connection of mine, a gentleman of
+talents and respectability, and I commend him to your favorable
+notice.</p>
+<p>Yours truly,</p>
+<p>WILLIAM L. MARCY.</p>
+<p>BRIG.-GEN. P.F. SMITH.</p>
+</div>
+<p>I soon found the colonel one of the warmest of friends. Captain
+John A. Sutter, who was a captain in the Swiss Guards of Charles
+the Tenth of France, after the revolution of 1830 in that country,
+came to the United States, who some years previous had wandered
+across the country to Oregon, and the Russian Fur Company secured
+for him a large grant of land from Mexico in California, on which
+the city of Sacramento now stands, extending back from that city
+many miles to where the gold was first discovered. He was having a
+raceway dug on the American river for the purpose of erecting a
+saw-mill, as there was no lumber in the country. He had constructed
+a fort some miles back from the Sacramento river, where he made his
+home. The object of the Russian Fur Company was to have a place
+where they could purchase grain, as there was none raised there at
+that time, and they had a contract with him, and that they were to
+send a vessel at such a time, and he was to settle up the country
+and cultivate it. Sutter was the most social and generous of men.
+The latch-string of his cabin was always on the outside, and all
+callers were welcome, and the hospitalities of the fort extended to
+all callers.</p>
+<p>At the time of my arrival, on August 18, 1849, there were
+several hundreds of ships anchored in the bay deserted by their
+crews, who had gone to the mines. They could make more in one day
+there than their wages would amount to in a month on the
+vessel.</p>
+<p>In the city a large portion of its population were living in
+tents. There were not buildings enough. Vessels were constantly
+arriving loaded with people from all parts of the world. As my
+health permitted I investigated matters there. I took a walk out. I
+met what looked like a laboring man. I asked him how long he had
+been there? He said two months. I said to him: "And not gone up to
+the mines yet?" He said to me he was in no particular hurry. He
+said he had a row-boat and made $20 a day rowing passengers to and
+from the vessels (there was then no dock). He had his boy with him,
+who gathered mussels and sold them. Between the two they averaged
+$30 per day, which explained why he was in no hurry to go to the
+gold diggings.</p>
+<p>Lumber was bringing fabulous prices. It looked very favorable
+for my house ventures. Mr. G., the Englishman, had been very
+anxious to buy them. He had seen the specifications of the
+carpenter on the steamer coming up. On Saturday P.M. I called at
+his office. He asked me if I had made up my mind to sell him the
+houses. I said to him: "If I should put a price on them you would
+not take me up." He said "try me." I named a price. He said he
+would take them and go to my lawyer to draw up the contract. I said
+I would just as soon go to his (which was a fatal mistake). I knew
+his was a State senator from Florida, and had come up on the
+steamer with us. We found the lawyer in his office, and he
+commenced drawing up the contract. I made my statement that I sold
+the houses from my carpenter's specifications (not from any
+representations I made myself), and from the bills of lading and
+from my insurance policy, which ranked the ship <i>Prince de
+Joinville</i>, formerly a Havre packet, classed A, No. 1. He was to
+deposit bills of lading of the ship <i>St. George</i> from
+Liverpool, consigned to him, in value to the amount of $50,000,
+with a third party, as collateral security, that on the arrival of
+the <i>Prince de Joinville,</i> and the delivery of the houses, he
+was to pay me the sum agreed upon.</p>
+<p>The lawyer, after writing a little, complained of a headache,
+and asked if it made any difference if he put it off until Monday
+morning. I said, Mr. G. had been very anxious to buy the houses,
+and I had not cared about selling them to arrive, preferring to
+take my chances when the vessel got here, but since I had consented
+to sell them, I preferred to have it on the solid. I said, I
+supposed the transaction was not of great importance to Mr. G., but
+I had all that I was worth in the world at stake on the venture,
+and would prefer to have it closed now. He commenced writing, and
+again complained of the headache. I then consented to put it off
+until Monday morning at 10 o'clock. We both pledged our honor to
+meet there at that time and consummate it. I was there on Monday
+morning at the time designated. Mr. G. came in at 11 o'clock and
+said he had changed his mind and would not take the houses. I said
+all right, but his word of pledge of honor would have no value with
+me hereafter.</p>
+<p>I would have made $18,000 profit, but I was selling them for a
+good deal less than they would have brought if they had been there.
+Lumber was selling as high as from three to four hundred dollars
+per thousand feet in San Francisco at that time. But I was making
+certain of a good profit and running no risk of what might happen
+in the future.</p>
+<p>I had another offer of a number of lots on Stockton street, the
+next street above the plaza in the heart of the city, for six of
+the smaller ones, which, if I had consummated, would have made my
+fortune. "There is a tide in the affairs of men, which, if taken at
+the flood tide, leads on to fortune, or, if not seized, are forever
+lost." (Shakespeare.)</p>
+<p>The ideas of the people there at that time was, that a railroad
+across the continent, connecting California with the East, was
+entirely impracticable. That there were one thousand miles of
+desert to cross, where there was no water, and the Sierra Nevada
+mountains presented an impassable barrier, and they thought how
+could it ever be an agricultural country, when there was no rain
+for more than seven months in the year. The idea of irrigation was
+not thought of then. How different every thing has turned out
+since, I have nothing to do with. I must be true to my subject, the
+days of the Forty-niners.</p>
+<p>As it would be, at least, three months before the ship could
+come in with my houses, and my health had improved, I was anxious
+to get up to the mines. I was informed that there was a party from
+Albany at the Dutch bar, on the south fork of the American river,
+about eight miles from Coloma, where gold was first discovered,
+with whom I was acquainted. I found a sloop about to sail for
+Sacramento (there were no steamers then) the starting point to the
+northern mine. I took passage on board with all the passengers the
+boat could accommodate. I noticed on the passage up that the
+mosquitoes were very large, with penetrating bills. It was as much
+as we could do to protect our faces.</p>
+<p>The only important event on the passage was that a Jew had
+potatoes that he was taking up on speculation, and that he was
+going to treat his fellow passengers to some, one day at dinner. We
+were a little disappointed when we found they were sweet ones, but
+still they were a treat. Vegetables were scarce, potatoes selling
+from forty to sixty cents per pound. After a few days we arrived at
+Sacramento, it being about one hundred miles from San Francisco by
+water. There were no hacks at the landing, nobody that wanted a job
+to carry your baggage. Governor Shannon, of Ohio, was among the
+passengers. He had been minister to Mexico, yet he had to carry his
+own baggage, and make several trips to do it. One of the passengers
+assisted him. He was president of a mining company organized in
+Ohio.</p>
+<p>It was evening. We stopped at a hotel, and I slept in my
+Mackinaw blanket that I carried with me, on the dining-room floor.
+The next morning after breakfast, about 9 o'clock, I went out on
+the front portico to take observations of the place. The landlord
+was there. There was a loaferish-looking fellow going by on the
+opposite side of the street. The landlord cries out to him: "Bill,
+what will you charge to chop wood for me from now until night?" He
+cries back, "What will you give?" He replies, "$10." Bill answers
+back, "Can't chop for less than an ounce," which was $16, and
+walked right on. It was evident that common labor was not suffering
+there for want of employment. I was there some days, and could find
+no one to post me how to get to Coloma. All was excitement and
+bustle. While there, Sam. Brannan&mdash;who had built a new hotel
+there (just finished), called the City Hotel&mdash;gave a free
+entertainment for one day to the public. He must have expended
+$1,000 for refreshments. He had been a Mormon preacher, and was a
+captain in Colonel Stevenson's regiment. He was very enterprising
+and generous, a prominent figure with the "Forty-niners."</p>
+<p>I saw an article in the paper a few years ago from a California
+correspondent, giving a biography of him; that he was, at one time,
+worth several millions, and went into some big
+enterprise&mdash;which I cannot now recall&mdash;and was
+unfortunate and lost all his wealth, and that he was, at that time,
+in San Francisco at a twenty-five-cent lodging-house, and that he
+told him that he passed two men that day who had crossed the street
+to avoid him, to whom he had furnished the money from which they
+had made their fortunes. Well, I finally found an Oregon man with a
+yoke of oxen, who was freighting goods up to Coloma. He said he had
+seven hundred and fifty acres of land in Oregon, but no cattle on
+it. He thought he would come to California and get gold enough to
+buy them, and his wife was keeping a cake and pie stand on the
+streets of that city. I never saw him after that trip, but coming
+with so modest expectations, I have no doubt he was successful.</p>
+<p>We started on our journey in the afternoon. The country through
+which we traveled looked as if it had been an old-settled land, and
+deserted by its inhabitants. It seemed that we must come to a
+farm-house, but there was none. There were scattering trees in the
+country and occasionally a woods, but no dense forest. We made
+eight miles, then camped for the night on the edge of a woods. I
+had brought no provisions with me, so I offered him $1 per meal to
+eat with him, which was accepted. He made tea, cooked some Indian
+meal, and had a jug of molasses; so we made a very good supper. I
+got my satchel out of the wagon for a pillow, and with my blankets
+made my bed on the ground under the wagon. I thought it would keep
+the dew off, but there was none.</p>
+<p>There is no danger of taking cold sleeping on the ground in the
+dry season, when it does not rain for seven months. He had set fire
+to a dead tree to keep the grizzly bears off, and about the time I
+got comfortably laid down, there was a pack of coyote wolves came
+howling around. Amid those surroundings, the burning of the fire to
+keep the grizzlies off and howling of the wolves, I fell asleep and
+did not wake until morning, refreshed from my slumbers. After a
+breakfast similar to the meal the night before, we proceeded on our
+journey, but the ox team travelled so slow that in walking I got
+away ahead of it, and then got tired of waiting for it to come up
+to me, and so went on alone. Toward night I came to Mormon Island,
+the first gold diggings. I inquired if there was a place where I
+could get quarters for the night. They said I might, at the
+hospital. It was a log cabin with bunks in it, and what was my
+astonishment to find the proprietor, a doctor from Troy, N.Y., an
+old acquaintance. I was more than welcome. We were both delighted
+to see each other. I to find such comfortable quarters, and he to
+meet with a friend in the wilderness, and to hear the latest news
+from the East. He got for me the best supper that the surroundings
+would afford; as I had eaten nothing since morning, it was very
+acceptable, and he provided for me the most comfortable of his
+bunks for sleeping. He informed me that it was twenty-five miles
+from Coloma, and there was but one place on the way where I could
+get water to drink. I started after breakfast, refreshed. After
+travelling some miles, I came to the smoke of the camp-fire of
+Indians, just ahead of me. It was rumored that the Oregon men were
+in the habit of shooting an Indian on sight when they had a chance.
+The Indians killed white men in retaliation, as they could not make
+peace until they had killed as many whites as they had lost,
+according to their ideas of equity. As I did not care particularly
+about being one to make up the number, I struck off in a ravine and
+passed around so as to avoid their camping ground and came to the
+road beyond them. What truth there was about the shooting of them I
+could not say, but it was currently reported at the time. About 4
+o'clock, P.M., I got to a stopping place six miles from Coloma.
+There I met a man with a long beard, slouched hat, a sash around
+his body, a flannel shirt, evidently a miner. I had a long talk
+with him. He posted me about the gold diggings and I him about the
+news from the States. As we were about to part, he asked me to take
+a drink. He inquired of the proprietor if he had champagne? He
+said, yes, at $10 a bottle. The man said, pass us down a bottle,
+which we drank together. He, evidently, had struck good diggings.
+We parted, as I was anxious to get to Coloma before dark, which I
+did, just as the sun was setting, having made twenty-five miles in
+one day on foot. I found a regular tavern here, kept by a man from
+Mississippi, with his family. I sat down to a regular table for my
+supper, which seemed quite a treat. He informed me that he had no
+bed-room for me; that I could sleep on the dining-room floor, or in
+his barn. He had just had some new hay put in. I chose the latter.
+It was a kind of a shanty building, but the soft bed of new hay was
+a luxury after my twenty-five miles walk.</p>
+<p>I awoke the next morning refreshed. After my breakfast I took in
+the place and went to the raceway where the first piece of gold was
+discovered. There were three or four stores in the place to supply
+the miners of the surrounding region. I got my direction how to
+find the Dutch Bar, eight miles from there. Proceeding on my way,
+after going about five miles, I came to a person, his face covered
+with a long beard, whom I recognized, by the expression of his
+eyes, as a person who I knew in Albany, and who belonged to the
+party I was seeking. He informed me that I was within three miles
+of them, and he gave me plain directions how to find them. I soon
+came to their camp and there was a genial meeting and exchange of
+news. There were five in the company. They had a tent and owned a
+pair of mules. I joined them, as I had not come to depend on
+mining, as I never had been accustomed to physical labor. At first
+I thought it was awful hard work, and that it was lucky for me that
+I had not come to California depending on it, but after a short
+time I got used to it and liked it. They took turns in cooking, so
+each one had one day in the week that he did the cooking. We lived
+on fried pork and flapjacks made from wheat flour fried in the fat
+of the pork, tin cups for our tea and coffee, and tin dishes. We
+each had stone seats, and a big one in the center for our table. At
+night we slept under our tent. The gold rivers were not navigable.
+They were sunk way down deep in the earth. When the rainy season
+sets in during the winter months, and sometimes rains every day in
+the month, causing the snow to melt on the Sierra Nevada mountains,
+where these streams take their rise, will cause the water to rise
+often from ten to twenty feet in a night, and in the course of ages
+has worn their depth down into the earth, and is supposed to have
+washed out of the earth the scales of gold that are found on the
+banks of the rivers. The first mining was a very simple process. A
+party of three could work together to the best advantage. A virgin
+bar was where the river had once run over and now receded from it.
+Three persons worked together, one to clear off the sand on the
+ground to within six inches of the hardpan. The top earth was not
+considered worth washing, the scales of gold, being heavier, had
+settled through it, but could not penetrate that portion of the
+earth called the hardpan, so the earth within six inches of it was
+impregnated with more or less gold, and one to carry the bucket to
+the rocker, and the other to run the rocker, which was located
+close to the water. The rocker was a trough about three feet in
+length with three slats in it and a sieve at the upper end, on
+which the bucket of earth was thrown. The man worked the rocker
+with one hand and dipped the water out of the river with a
+tin-handled dipper. As he worked the rocker the fine earth and
+scales of gold passed through the holes of the sieve and settled
+behind the slats in the trough, and the stones and large lumps in
+which there was no gold were caught in the sieve and thrown away.
+After a certain number of buckets of earth had been run through in
+that way, the settlings behind the slats in the trough were put in
+a milk-pan and the water was allowed to run in the pan and the fine
+earth and sand would float on the top of the water. You would let
+that run off.</p>
+<p>After a few operations of that kind you would see the yellow
+scales of gold on the edge of the sand. You would continue that
+process until there was but a little of the sand left; then you
+would take it with you when you went to the tank and warm it by a
+fire to dry the sand; then with your breath you would blow away the
+sand and have the gold, which you carried in a buckskin bag, which
+was the currency of the country, at $16 per ounce, and at the mint
+in Philadelphia was worth $18.25. I have carried three hundred
+buckets in a day, and at twenty-five cents worth of gold in a
+bucket, it would amount to $75, $25 to each man for his day's work,
+which was frequently the average. In those days all it cost for a
+party of three for capital to start mining was about $15. Then you
+had the chances of striking a pocket. That was a cavity in the
+rocks where gold had settled. In the course of ages, and where the
+strong currents of the streams, when the rivers were high, could
+not reach it to wash it out, I have known a person to take out $800
+of gold in less than an hour. The first miners, when they found
+gold on the banks of the river, thought if they could only dig in
+the deep holes of the bed they would find chunks of it, and they
+went to a big expense, and those who had money hired laborers to
+assist in constructing raceways at $16 per day, to change the
+current of the river; but when they had effected their object and
+dug there they found no gold, for there was nothing to prevent the
+strong current from carrying it off; but I knew a party to draw off
+the water and expose the bed of the river, where there were rapids,
+and they were successful, and the gold had settled down between the
+crevices of the rocks, and the currents could not disturb it.</p>
+<p>There were some other kinds of diggings discovered different
+from the river mining, called ca&ntilde;ons, one I know of, called
+the Oregon. It was described like a tunnel, deep down in the earth,
+where a party of three persons from near our locality went and
+returned in about three weeks and had from three to five thousand
+dollars apiece, which they showed me. It was not scale gold, but
+nuggets of all sizes. Of course, they had unusual luck.</p>
+<p>On the river mining each person was entitled to so many feet, as
+long as they left any implements of labor on it. No person would
+trespass upon it; but if he took every thing away, then it was
+inferred he had given it up, and anybody had a right to take it.
+All regulations were strictly respected and every thing was safe,
+and a person told me that he would not be afraid to leave his bag
+of gold in his tent. Every thing was honorable and safe until the
+overland emigrants from western Missouri arrived there.</p>
+<p>They were a different kind of people; more of the brute order.
+When they saw a party of two or three that had a good claim, and
+they were the strongest, they would dispossess them. (I suppose the
+same class that raided Kansas in John Brown's time.) They became so
+obnoxious that a respectable man would deny his State.</p>
+<p>And another corrupt element arrived by sea, the ex-convicts from
+Sidney.</p>
+<p>I went to Coloma one day to get supplies for the party. I rode
+one of the mules, the other followed to be packed with the
+purchases. When I bought what was wanted, I handed the storekeeper
+my bag of gold to pay him. When he returned it to me, I found his
+statement made was between three and four dollars less than I knew
+was in it. I informed him of the discrepancy. He said he did not
+see how that could be; that he weighed it right. He came in in a
+few minutes and apologized, saying that he had weighed it in the
+scales that he used when he traded with the Indians. It needs no
+comment to know that the Christian man is not always superior to
+the Indian in integrity. There was an Indian who had struck a
+pocket. He came to Coloma with $800 in gold dust that he got out in
+a short time. He invested it all with the storekeepers in a few
+hours. He had dressed himself in the height of fashion, including a
+gold watch. He was dressed as no California Indian ever had been
+before. The gold he could not eat nor drink.</p>
+<center><img src="./images/illus074a.png" height="450" width="264"
+alt=" DRESSED AS NO CALIFORNIA INDIAN EVER WAS BEFORE."></center>
+<p>How the gold came there is one of the mysteries of nature. One
+theory is, that the Sierra Nevada mountains were once the banks of
+the Pacific ocean, and all California had been thrown up from the
+bottom of the sea from that depth where gold was a part of the
+formation of the earth, in connection with quartz, and as all gold
+appears in a molten state, which would go to corroborate this
+theory. A person informed me that he went through a ravine where
+one side of the road was half of a large rock, and on the other
+side, the other half. He could see where the two halves would match
+each other exactly. Well, I lived that life for two months. We had
+an addition to what I have described to eat&mdash;pork and beans on
+Sunday, and Chili pudding. It had been baked and sweetened, and
+then ground up like flour and put in bags. All you had to do was to
+moisten it with water to eat it. All our flour came from that
+country, put up in sacks of fifty and one hundred pounds each, but
+we had no vegetables. One day we heard that they had dried-apple
+sauce at the hotel at Coloma for dinner. The next day, Sunday,
+three of us walked eight miles to get there to dinner to get a
+taste of it. We paid $2 apiece for our dinner, and they had the
+sauce; it tasted so good that we did not begrudge the price of the
+dinner and the walk back again. We were fully satisfied.</p>
+<p>The rainy season set in. It rained three days, and although it
+was three or four weeks before it would be possible for my houses
+to arrive, yet it was a new country and no bridges. The streams
+might get up so as to be impassable, and the houses were consigned
+to me, and no one but myself to receive them. I thought I had
+better get back to San Francisco at once. What I was making in the
+mines was mere nothing to what I had at stake in the houses.
+Although, to tell the truth, I never left a place with more regret,
+as hard as the fare was. We were interested every day in the work
+for gold, and did not know when we might make a rich strike. My
+last day there it rained. Notwithstanding, a companion and myself
+went out to dig for a couple of hours. When we returned, we had $25
+worth. That was the last of my mining. I started the next morning
+for Sacramento afoot. I sold my pistol and blankets for an ounce
+each, $16 apiece. On my route I met a man bound for the same place.
+We joined teams and became very intimate.</p>
+<p>The only incident of importance was when we got within five
+miles of Sacramento. We stopped at a log cabin and ordered dinner.
+A short time after my companion came to me in some excitement and
+said he had looked through the window and that they were cooking
+potatoes for dinner. I could not believe the good news, and so went
+and looked for myself and found it was true. I had not tasted one
+in two months. We took the steamer <i>Senator</i> that evening for
+San Francisco. It had been a Long Island steamboat and had arrived
+since my departure for the mines. It was the first steamer that had
+ever sailed the interior waters of California, and had been put on
+to run from San Francisco to Sacramento. I think it belonged to
+Grenell, Minton &amp; Co., a prominent shipping firm of New York
+city. Charley Minton had charge of it. Of course its profits were
+great. But I could not sleep in my state-room berth; I had been so
+long used to a hard bed I was restless, but we arrived safe the
+next morning at San Francisco. The bulk of my book will be events
+that occurred during my residence in that city. I scarcely know how
+to begin to describe it. My efforts will be to portray them
+truthfully. To do so I must continue in the form of a personal
+narrative. That is the only way I can recall the events to my mind
+of so long ago.</p>
+<p>At this time more changes took place there in a month than in
+most any other place in a year. Every thing was done by the month.
+Buildings were rented by the month; money was loaned by the month;
+ten per cent per month was the regular interest. There was but one
+bank, called the Miners', on the corner of the plaza, owned by
+three parties. During my absence a great boom had taken
+place&mdash;influenced by new arrivals and most favorable news from
+the gold mining sections. This was the fall of 1849. The lots that
+I had thought of trading six of my houses for had tripled in value,
+but lumber was still bringing fabulous prices and every thing
+looked favorable for a big strike on my houses when they arrived.
+Montgomery street was on the banks of the bay. There was one pier
+at this time constructed from it in the bay, and a temporary pier
+by Colonel Stevenson at the north beach. The city was growing up
+toward Happy Valley. Portsmouth Square, the plaza, still had some
+of the adobe buildings on it. The best hotel was the Parker House,
+on the west corner of it. The plaza was sand, no vegetation on
+it.</p>
+<p>Rincon Point, on Telegraph Hill, was the spot where ships and
+steamers were signalled. Steamers coming in but once a month, they
+brought the last news from the East. The New York papers were
+peddled at $1 each. Long lines of people were formed to get the
+mail, and you had to take sometimes half a day before you could
+reach the office. Oakland, opposite the bay, had no existence. Goat
+Island had plenty of wild goats on it, and we could never imagine
+how the first goat ever got there. There was no scarcity of
+meat&mdash;plenty of beef and grizzly bears were hung out at the
+doors of the restaurants as a sign, and plenty of venison. I can
+recall now to my mind, venison steaks that we would get in the
+evening with their rich jellies on it. The luxuries of Asia were
+coming in there. Many China restaurants with their signs from
+Canton or Pekin. But there was a great scarcity of vegetables.
+Onions and potatoes sold for forty cents per pound.</p>
+<p>A day or two after my arrival, my friend who came down with me
+from the mines came to me and said that there were a lot of
+blankets to be sold at auction; that he had no money, or he would
+buy them; that if I would buy them he would take them up in the
+mines and peddle them out for me for half of the profit. As I knew
+they were in great demand there&mdash;I had sold, when I left
+there, mine for $16&mdash;I told him if he could buy them for $4
+per pair to bid them off and I would furnish the money to pay for
+them. He came back in a short time and said he had bought them, and
+that they came to $800. We had them taken to the steamer
+<i>Senator</i> to ship to Sacramento. We paid $10 a load to have
+them carted from the store where they were bought to the steamer.
+(The result of this speculation later on.)</p>
+<p>There were at this time several hundred vessels anchored in the
+bay, deserted by their officers and crews. A ship could be bought
+for probably one-third of what it was worth in New York, and I
+conceived the project of buying a ship as soon as I sold my houses,
+which I expected soon to arrive, being on so fast a ship as the
+<i>Prince de Joinville</i>, and going myself to the Sandwich
+Islands and buying a load of onions and potatoes, as I was informed
+that they could be bought as cheap there as in the States, and
+ciphered out that one successful venture of that kind would make my
+fortune. So I went among the idle ships to see what I could do in
+that line, and to have one selected, ready to close the bargain as
+soon as the houses arrived. I came across a brig that had been
+running to Sacramento, but was condemned as a foreign bottom, when
+Collier, the collector, arrived there, a short time before, and
+extended the marine laws of the United States over California. The
+captain and crew were aboard. The captain was an Englishman; the
+crew, cosmopolitan&mdash;a Hindostan, a Mexican named Edwin Jesus,
+an English sailor and an American. I inquired of the captain about
+the history of the vessel. He said she had been built at Quavqiel,
+down the coast, and had belonged to a Mexican general, and was
+built partially of an American whaler that had been wrecked on the
+coast, so I got American timbers in her. They wanted to sell the
+vessel. I told him I might buy her. I would let them know in a day
+or two. So I went to Colonel Stevenson and gave him a history of
+it, and asked him if he would see Collier, the collector of the
+port, and see if I could not get her papers as an American vessel,
+which he did, and informed me the next day that it was all right. I
+went at once and bought the brig. As soon as I got its American
+papers it was worth twice what I had to pay for it. I kept the same
+captain, as he knew the navigation of the rivers, which few did at
+that time. I gave him $250 per month and put a supercargo at $150
+per month, and kept the same crew. I had it put up for Stockton,
+the head depot for the Southern lines. The first month it made two
+trips. Its receipts were $3,100; its expenses, $1,100; so it earned
+me $2,000 clear.</p>
+<p>There was a friend of mine named R., who owned a third interest
+in a factory that belonged to a relative of mine who got the gold
+fever when I did, and got me to negotiate the sale of his interest
+in it to him, which I did for $8,000, so he could go to California
+with me. When he arrived there he proposed to build a brewery. His
+father had been a brewer in Scotland. He bought a lot, a part of
+the city called Happy Valley, and started to build the first
+brewery on the Pacific coast. He commenced to build one that would
+cost $30,000 with that capital, which was his mistake. If he had
+commenced in a small way he would have made his fortune. (In my
+personal narrative he had much to do with my affairs.)</p>
+<p>At this point in writing my manuscript, I have just heard of the
+death of Colonel Jonathan Stevenson, aged ninety-four, in
+California, to whom I had a letter of introduction from Governor
+William L. Marcy. I found him the warmest, the truest and most
+generous friend. He was a little unpopular when I first met him,
+for what I conceived the most noble action of his life. There were
+in his regiment roughs from the city of New York, where it was
+organized, who, when the war was over with Mexico, would go into
+saloons and places and help them selves to what they wanted and
+refused to pay. They were termed "The Hounds." There was a
+vigilance committee organized against them, which public sentiment,
+at that time, fully indorsed. They had seized a number of them and
+were about to hang them. Colonel Stevenson faced the excited crowd
+and asked to have them give the men a trial and punish the guilty.
+He said that when he returned to New York and their mothers asked
+him what had become of their sons, how could he face them if they
+were put to death in that way; but if he could say to them that
+they had a fair trial, were found guilty of crime, and had been
+punished according to law, it would be different. I think they were
+not executed, but banished; but it set up a cry against the colonel
+that he had taken the part of "The Hounds," so unjust is often, for
+a time, public sentiment. That was the first vigilance committee;
+the great one came afterward, but I am confined to the days of the
+"Forty-niners."</p>
+<p>It was rumored, at the time, that there was a jealousy between
+him and Colonel Freemont. It was not on the part of Stevenson. I
+boarded at the same hotel with Freemont.</p>
+<p>See illustration for bill which I received while at the hotel
+with Colonel Freemont:</p>
+<center><img src="./images/illus086a.png" height="450" width="299"
+alt=" HOTEL BILL."></center>
+<p>The colonel asked me one day to speak to Freemont at dinner, and
+request him, if convenient, to stop in his office as he came from
+dinner, which I did. Stevenson's office was on the plaza, but
+Freemont never called.</p>
+<p>There was great difficulty about the title to lots at that time.
+There were contentions set up, and claims of property from
+different Mexican grants, as it became valuable. It was guaranteed
+by the United States, at the treaty of Hidalgo, when California was
+ceded to us, that all titles that were good under the Mexican
+government should be recognized by us. L., the chaplain of
+Stevenson's regiment, seems to have been the butt of the boys
+before the gold was discovered.</p>
+<p>They, as a farce, elected him alcalde of San Francisco, which
+position is a combination of mayor and judge, as we would
+understand it, and his election was declared illegal. Then they
+elected him for spite. He served one year. There was a Mexican law
+that in any village in that country a person had a right to settle
+on one hundred veras of land so many feet, about three hundred, and
+if he put up any kind of a building on it, and held undisputed
+possession for one year, he could go to the alcalde, and by paying
+$16, get a good and valid title. When the lots became so valuable
+in San Francisco, after the gold was discovered, many lots based on
+those kinds of grants became very valuable two or three years after
+the discovery of gold. L. became quite wealthy, it was said, by
+advances in real estate. There were rumors of bogus titles in the
+names of dead soldiers and others who had left the country, but
+could be traced to no authentic source. He was estimated to be
+worth several hundred thousand dollars, made in the rise of real
+estate. I met him but once and I sold him some lumber.</p>
+<p>My shipping merchant who negotiated freight for my brig got a
+legal title of that kind.</p>
+<br>
+<a name="HIS_STORY"></a>
+<h2>HIS STORY.</h2>
+<p>He said he was a book-keeper for a firm in Newport, Rhode
+Island, at a small salary. He made up his mind that if they would
+not raise his pay $100 per year on the 1st of January he would
+leave them. They refused, so he lost his situation, and it was dull
+times, and he could not get another one, so he shipped on a whaling
+vessel as a sailor. His health was poor, and he found he could not
+stand the hardships of that life. The vessel put in the harbor of
+San Francisco for water and fresh meat on their way to the Arctic
+ocean, so he deserted the ship and secreted himself until it left.
+Then he had to do something there for a living, so he squatted on
+one hundred veras of land on the beach, and put up a shanty and
+sold fruit and probably some liquor, etc., to make a living. No one
+disturbed him for one year. He applied to the alcalde and paid his
+$16 and got a good, valid title. After the gold was discovered it
+became the most valuable property in the city. When I was doing
+business with him he had a three-story brick store, which he owned.
+The whaling ship had been gone to the Arctic ocean two or three
+years and had heard nothing of the discovery of the gold, and
+wonderful changes in San Francisco, and the captain thought he
+would put in that port on his return and hunt up his runaway
+sailor, and behold, his absconding sailor was rich enough when he
+found him to buy his ship and his whole cargo of whale oil. I was
+introduced by him to his captain and shook hands with him, and we
+had a good talk over it. Wherein does our stories of fiction, of
+our boyhood, of Arabian Nights, surpass the actual events of life,
+of the wonderful fluctuations of fortunes in California in the days
+of the Forty-niners?</p>
+<center><img src="./images/illus090a.png" height="450" width="350"
+alt=" THE CAPTAIN AND THE RUNAWAY SAILOR."></center>
+<p>On the death of President Taylor, a meeting was called for the
+purpose of having funeral obsequies there in his honor. A man was
+named for president of the day. Then it was proposed to name a
+vice-president for each State and Territory, which was done. There
+were persons in the crowd from every one of them. A day was set
+apart for the ceremonies, and all business was to be suspended.
+There was a long procession on that day, and the masons and all
+societies and the people in general turned out in full force,
+including the Chinese, who were smart enough to think it would make
+a favorable impression in their favor. After the parade was
+dismissed in the plaza, the Chinese were requested to remain, and a
+missionary addressed them, and a Chinaman interpreted to them in
+their own language. I noticed that their language was much more
+condensed than ours. It took about a third of the time for him to
+translate what the missionary said. When the missionary closed, he
+said he hoped that we would all meet together in another and a
+better world. It seemed to them so absurd that they looked at each
+other and smiled as if it was a good joke. In those early days
+there were no particular prejudices against them. Pagans, as we
+call them, practised the Christian virtues toward their own
+countrymen. When the ship arrived from China they were down to
+greet the newcomers, whom they had never seen before, and invite
+them to their homes. The present laws of restriction against them,
+I think, are all right. We cannot afford to run the risk of having
+the institutions of our country injured by an emigration that is
+uncongenial to it. We have gone too far in that line already, not
+from selfishness, but to perpetuate the institutions founded by our
+revolutionary ancestors, in their purity, for the interests of
+mankind.</p>
+<p>I received a letter from my blanket friend. He informed me that
+he could not sell the blankets, and had traded them off for flour,
+and would start the next day for the Yuba, which was the most
+remote gold river. That was all a lie. He did that so that I would
+not follow him up. He had not a dollar invested in them. They were
+my property. I knew at once I had been dealing with a rascal, but I
+was powerless to do any thing about it, so I wrote him back that it
+was all right; that I had bought a brig; and that I had it running
+to Stockton, and he could take ventures up on that and make up what
+we had lost on the blankets, and much more. (More of him later
+on.)</p>
+<br>
+<a name="GAMBLING"></a>
+<h2>THE GAMBLING OF THAT DAY.</h2>
+<p>It was public most everywhere. Faro tables, the great American
+gambling game, Monte, the Mexican and Roulette. The Eldorado, on
+the corner of the plaza, was the most celebrated gambling house of
+that time. There had been a great deal of money expended in fitting
+it up. It had an orchestra of fifteen persons. It was run all night
+and day, with two sets of hands. It was gorgeously fitted up. What
+they used to stir up the sugar in the drinks cost $300. It was
+solid gold. Numerous gambling tables, piled up with gold and
+silver, to tempt the better, behind which were hired dealers. The
+owners of the Eldorado were not known. Many a miner has come with
+his few thousand dollars to San Francisco to sail for home, and
+taking in the sights, visited the Eldorado, got interested in the
+different games, and lost it all and went back to the gold regions
+broken and penniless to try his luck over again. I heard of one
+that lost his all three times in that way. I saw a man once put
+down a bag of gold, which contained $5,000, bet $1,000 on one turn
+of the card at Monte. He lost. While I was looking at him in the
+course of half an hour, he lost it all. I thought what independence
+that amount would have given some family in the East.</p>
+<p>In those early days there was often but a muslin partition
+between you and the next room, and you could hear every word in the
+next apartment. About 1 o'clock in the morning I was awaken by two
+men entering and taking the next room to mine, whom I saw running a
+Roulette table on the plaza. They seemed to be considerably
+excited. They said they would be willing to lose some money to get
+rid of that tapper. Of course, I could not understand, at first,
+what they meant by that expression, but come to find out from their
+conversation, they had their Roulette table arranged so that they
+could make the ball stop on the red or black, as it happened to be
+for their interest to have it do. So, if there were $20 bet upon
+the red, the tapper would bet $10 on the black, and they could not
+make the red lose without making the black win. So the tapper was
+getting half of their gains. I would advise all my friends to let
+Roulette alone, unless they are sure they can place themselves in
+the position of the tapper.</p>
+<p>One morning on the plaza I took a look into a gambling saloon. I
+saw a Greaser that had been betting against Monte all night, and
+had had wonderful luck. He announced that he would tap the bank for
+$1,800, which was more money than he ever had before, or could ever
+expect to have again, which meant that he would bet that amount for
+whatever sum the dealer could show to meet it on the turn of one
+card. He lost, and the dealer showed $1,800 in the bank and took
+all his money. Monte is the great National gambling game of Mexico,
+and his idea of Paradise is to be able to break a Monte bank.</p>
+<p>Mr. B. from Kentucky, whom I took for so rich a nabob, referred
+to among the passengers when out of New York. I saw him take out
+his gold watch, a valuable one, and bet it behind the queen, on the
+game of Faro, for $100. He was evidently about broke. It won. Then
+he went the $200, and it won again. Then he went it the third time,
+and it won. In about twenty minutes he had his watch back and $700,
+then he left. Some one asked me a few months after that if I knew
+that he was worth $80,000? He had been very lucky, and that he was
+to run for sheriff of San Francisco county on the Democratic
+ticket, and that the Whigs had nominated Jack Hayes, the celebrated
+Texan ranger. Hayes had been in the Mexican war. It was told of him
+that when the American and Mexican armies were encamped opposite
+each other, that a Mexican officer, splendidly equipped, came
+forward on horseback, and challenged any American to meet him in
+single combat between the two forces. Jack Hayes volunteered to go,
+and he killed him. He took his horse, gold watch and personal
+effects. He afterward learned who he was, and that he left a widow.
+He sent all his personal effects to her as a present. Of course, we
+were interested warmly on his side, and he was elected. They say
+Colonel B. spent all his $80,000 on his side and was defeated. No
+reputable citizen of San Francisco or business man would allow
+himself to be seen betting at any of the public gambling tables. He
+would feel that he was losing character. I am trying to portray the
+scenes of those days exactly as they occurred, and if I left the
+gambling scenes out it would not be a true history.</p>
+<p>At first public offices went a begging; nobody wanted them. Fine
+clothes were at a discount. He was looked upon as a tender-foot who
+knew nothing about the gold regions. But a flannel-shirted,
+roughly-dressed miner was the lion. He could tell something about
+the gold regions. The governor appointed a loafer fellow, in the
+early days, Port Warden. Nobody wanted it, and he was indorsed by
+one firm. As the city grew very rapidly the office soon became
+valuable. Somebody told the governor what kind of a man he had
+appointed Port Warden, and the governor wrote him a letter
+requesting him to resign, stating to him what representations had
+been made to him about his character, which, if he had known, he
+would not have appointed him. He wrote back to the governor
+refusing to resign, saying to him, he had better read the papers
+and look after his own character. The governor was up for
+re-election and the opposition papers were pitching into him.</p>
+<br>
+<a name="GRIZZLY"></a>
+<h2>THE GRIZZLY BEARS.</h2>
+<p>One warm afternoon my friend Me and myself thought we would take
+a walk over to Pesedeo; that was about three miles to the Pacific
+ocean. The seal rocks is where the sea lions or seals can always be
+seen. It was the entrance to the Golden Gates, where the roar of
+the Pacific ocean is twice that of the Atlantic, it being six
+thousand miles broad, twice that of the Atlantic. On our way we
+stopped into a tent to get a drink of water. We found it occupied
+by three miners, one of whom was quite lame. I inquired of him what
+was the matter. He said his hip had been dislocated by the
+grizzlies. I asked him how it happened. He said they went up to the
+Trinity river to dig for gold. I knew that was the most remote gold
+river. He said they were lucky and found rich diggings, but after
+awhile their provisions gave out and they could not procure any
+unless they returned to the settlements. On their way, returning on
+horseback, they came to three grizzly bears grazing in a field. It
+was very dangerous to attack them, but they were very hungry. They
+thought if they could kill one of them it would supply them with
+meat, so they finally decided they would take their chances and
+fire on them, which they did, and wounded one. The other two took
+after the man whose hip was dislocated. He fled and came to a
+buckeye tree, the body of which slants, and he got up in it, the
+bears came on under it. After awhile they found they could not
+reach him. It being a low tree one of them commenced climbing it
+after him. He thought his last hour had come; all the events of his
+life seemed to rush on his mind, and a picture of the old-fashioned
+spelling book, where the man plays dead on the bear, came before
+him, which I distinctly recollected. He thought his only chance was
+to drop from the tree and hold his breath, and play dead on the
+bear, which he did, and fell on his face. One bear grabbed him by
+the shoulders and the other by the ankle, and in pulling,
+dislocated his hip. He had a thick overcoat on which they tore to
+pieces. He held his breath. After awhile they went off and left
+him. After a little while he raised his head to see if they were
+gone, and they came trotting back and smelt him all over again, and
+went away again, he holding his breath. Then he laid a long time,
+fearing to move, and his companions came up</p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"Each fainter trace that memory
+holds</span><br>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">So darkly of departed
+years,</span><br>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">In one broad glance, the soul
+beholds,</span><br>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">And all that was at once
+appears"</span><br>
+<p>In the cases of imminent danger such is said to be the case. It
+is evident that is what saved this man's life. Truth is stranger
+than fiction.</p>
+<center><img src="./images/illus100a.png" height="290" width="450"
+alt=" PURSUED BY THE GRIZZLIES."></center>
+<p>The State seal of California is Minerva, with a spear and shield
+and the grizzly bear at her feet. Before the discovery of gold they
+were quite numerous. They roamed in full possession, apparently, of
+the country&mdash;no one to molest them or make them afraid. It was
+a very formidable animal, weighing from seven to eight hundred
+pounds. When the rainy season set in, late in the fall, and the
+winter months, during which the grass commenced to grow, he fed on
+it in the valleys and fields, and became fat and powerful. In the
+spring, when the dry season set in and no rain for seven months,
+and fields dried up with a dusty brown, he fled to the tops of the
+mountains to browse on the leaves of the trees to support life
+until the next rainy season commenced. It is said he is not a
+ferocious animal if unmolested, and will not attack you if you let
+him alone, unless it is a she bear with cubs, or you shoot at them
+and wound them. They are very hard to kill. To be hit by a bullet
+has very little effect on them, unless hit in a vital spot. An
+acquaintance of mine was walking on a road in the interior and saw
+a big grizzly coming down the road in the opposite direction toward
+him. He knew it would not do to undertake to run. He had been
+posted on their natures, so he kept walking right on, as if he was
+undisturbed and had no fear, the bear coming nearer to him all the
+time, with his gait unchanged, or he his, until they passed each
+other, he looking the grizzly in the eye and treating each other
+with due respect and consideration as friends. As an illustration
+of their strength, an old Californian informed me that he knew of
+an instance where a grizzly came into a pack of live mules and took
+one off and carried it to his den and ate it. In corroboration of
+that fact, another man informed me that he saw a bear chasing a
+mule and fired on the bear and hit him, and the bear turned toward
+him, and the mule escaped.</p>
+<center><img src="./images/illus102a.png" height="450" width="262"
+alt=" THE MINER AND THE GRIZZLY."></center>
+<p>There was a Mr. W., who opened a fashionable hotel on the east
+side of the plaza. I was invited to be one of a party of twenty to
+give a complimentary dinner to a friend, who was about to return
+East. The bill was just $400, which was $20 apiece, the most I ever
+paid for a California dinner. The landlord became quite popular and
+was thought to be a very responsible person. A great many persons
+from the long voyages around Cape Horn arrived, sick with the
+scurvy, owing to want of vegetables at sea, most of whose systems
+underwent a change to become acclimated to the country; some
+seriously and others more mildly. It was thought it would be a good
+thing to do to erect a hospital for the benefit of the public and
+those arriving sick. There was $30,000 raised at the first meeting
+called, and Mr. W., the landlord, was elected treasurer.</p>
+<center><img src="./images/illus104a.png" height="450" width="253"
+alt=" THE MAN WHO ESCAPED FROM THE SANDWICH ISLANDS."></center>
+<p>One night he got betting against the game of Faro, lost, and I
+suppose got over excited, and in trying to recover his losses, lost
+every thing, including $30,000. Of course it was not known that he
+ever gambled or he would not have been trusted with the money. As
+soon as it was known it created great excitement and indignation,
+that so sacred a fund should have been wasted in that way. He fled,
+and the Mayor offered $3,000 reward for his apprehension. It seems
+he had escaped on a vessel to the Sandwich Islands, and had no
+money, and got in debt there and could not leave there as long as
+he owed any thing, according to their laws, and he was in despair,
+until one day fortune smiled upon him. Accidentally he came across
+a California paper in which was the $3,000 reward offered by the
+Mayor of San Francisco for his arrest, and this was his opportunity
+and he seized it at once. Then hope dawned upon him. He found a
+vessel about to sail for San Francisco. He took the paper and
+showed it to the captain and told him if he would advance the money
+so he could pay his debts, he would return with him to San
+Francisco and he could surrender him and they would divide the
+reward. The captain accepted his offer and delivered him up upon
+his arrival at San Francisco, and got the reward. Two or three
+months had elapsed since his departure, and that was more time than
+so many years in any other country, and all excitement about it had
+subsided, and I think it was called a breach of trust, and I have
+no recollection that he was punished in any other way.</p>
+<br>
+<a name="BLANKET"></a>
+<h2>MY BLANKET MAN.</h2>
+<p>When he wrote me that he had traded the blankets for flour, and
+had gone to the Yuba river with the flour, I knew that it was a
+lie, and that he was a rascal, and I found that blankets had been
+in great demand, at a high price, and likewise learned that he had
+been connected with a forgery in New York city, but that his
+brother was a respectable merchant there, so for the time I gave up
+my $800 as lost. What was my surprise after six weeks at my hotel
+(which was an expensive one), to see my man at the tea table. I
+greeted him most cordially and asked no questions about the
+blankets, but talked to him about the brig I owned and had running
+to Stockton; that I had been looking for him to come back; there
+was such a splendid chance for us to make purchases in San
+Francisco, and for him to take them up on my vessel and sell them
+out in the Southern gold mines, near that place; that what we had
+lost on the blankets we could more than make up on the first
+venture, and that there would be big money in that kind of a
+speculation. We spent the evening together most cordially. The next
+morning I detained him in conversation until about the time for the
+Miners' Bank to open, then we went out together. When we got
+opposite the bank I took out my watch and said to him, that I did
+not think it was so late. I said I had a note of $800 due there
+that morning; I asked him if he had the gold dust about him to that
+amount. He said yes. I said let me have it and I will take up my
+note. He said there was no place to weigh it. I said yes, here
+there was a place where I was acquainted. It was weighed and handed
+to me. I told him I would see him at dinner, which I did. I then
+opened on him, and told him how despicably he had acted when I so
+generously trusted to his honor. He made no reply; he virtually
+admitted the truth of my statement. I never saw him afterward. That
+was the only time I ever played the confidence game in my life, and
+my conscience has approved of it ever since.</p>
+<p>My friend, Mr. R., had got his brewery well under way in Happy
+Valley, as they called that part of the city, had used up his
+$8,000 and commenced borrowing money on my indorsement, at ten per
+cent a month, the regular interest at that time. He had a friend,
+Lieutenant S., who resigned from the regular army, a graduate from
+West Point, who had been up in the country, and came back with a
+flaming account of a place on the Toulama river, which empties into
+the San Joaquin, which was the head of navigation on that river,
+and was the place to start a town, and if we would furnish him with
+$1,500 to do it with, we would each own a third of it. I did not
+take to it, but Mr. R. was so earnest about it, and had such
+confidence in his friend, that I finally let him have the money.
+There was quite a spirit of speculation of that kind at that time.
+Colonel Stevenson had laid out one on Suisan bay, at the mouth of
+the San Joaquin river, named New York of the Pacific. Marysville,
+on the Sacramento river, was laid out a short time previous, and
+proved a great success, making the fortunes of the projectors. Of
+course, a few were successful, and many failed. It seemed to have
+been a legitimate thing to do to make a fortune in a new country. I
+became acquainted with Broderick. It was Koyler &amp; Broderick.
+They had an office in the same building with Colonel Stevenson.
+Broderick, who was afterward United States Senator from California,
+and I became very intimate. He was not intellectually a very
+brilliant man, but a solid, able and strictly honest man, and a
+thoroughly posted politician of his day. He had run as a Democratic
+candidate for Congress from the city of New York, but was not
+elected. In California he was first elected to the State Senate
+from the city. It was he who conceived the project of laying out
+the water lots on the bay, and got the bill through the
+Legislature. He advised me to buy one or more. I looked at where he
+suggested to me to buy, and found them six feet under water.
+Although they could be bought very cheap then, their prospective
+value seemed so remote to me I thought they were not worth the
+trouble of bothering with. It shows how easy it is to be mistaken
+in apprehending the future. I understand they are now the most
+valuable part of the city.</p>
+<br>
+<a name="TENT"></a>
+<h2>THE MAN IN HIS TENT.</h2>
+<p>The man in his tent, who had squatted on Rincon Point, an
+elevated locality, that commanded a grand view of the bay, informed
+me that when he squatted there with his tent, that he could find no
+person who claimed the land. He had been there but a few days, when
+some parties came to him and offered to give him so much a month
+for the privilege of putting up their tent near his. He said he had
+no objections. They paid him. Then other parties who wanted to put
+up their tents were referred to him. From these various persons he
+was getting a very liberal income. He informed me that as long as
+it lasted, he was in no hurry to go to the mines.</p>
+<br>
+<a name="CLIPPER"></a>
+<h2>THE CLIPPER SHIPS.</h2>
+<p>About this time was the first appearance of the celebrated
+clipper ships. They anchored off of Happy Valley and attracted
+great attention; they could make the trip around Cape Horn from New
+York to San Francisco in three or four months; they run wet; their
+bows were very sharp, and, in a rough sea, instead of mounting the
+waves, they cut them, and the bows ran under water, and their
+progress was not impeded by the waves, saving two or three months'
+time, which was of great consideration then. There was no railroad
+across the Isthmus then, and there was no other way of transporting
+freight between the cities of New York and San Francisco except
+around Cape Horn. They had great fame then. England conceded their
+superiority over all other sailing vessels for speed; but they have
+passed away, the railroad reducing the time to from five to eight
+days; of course, there is a great difference between that and three
+or four months. The days of sailing vessels, however great their
+speed, to a great extent, is gone. Besides, there are regular lines
+of steamers to most every port of the world, and the ocean is
+covered with tramp steamers.</p>
+<p>That winter a convention was called to organize a State
+government and apply for admission to the Union. The Southern
+element there wanted to make it a slave State. The Northerners,
+including both Whigs and Democrats, wanted it free. They did not
+want to be brought in competition with slave labor in the mines,
+and have their occupation degraded in that way. Their pride, as
+well as interest, was at stake, and there was great feeling on the
+subject. Meetings were called all through the mines and addresses
+made and candidates nominated. The average of intelligence there
+was away above any other part of the country. For they were men of
+enterprise, or they would not have been there in that early day. At
+Mormon Island, one of the miners got up and made a speech. He so
+impressed them with his ability that they unanimously nominated him
+as their candidate to the Constitutional Convention. He was an old
+acquaintance of mine. In 1847 or 1848 he was a Democratic member of
+the Legislature of the State of New York, from Washington county,
+and was chosen by that body to deliver the oration on Washington's
+birthday. His name was George Washington Sherwood. He was elected
+to the Constitutional Convention of California, and wrote its first
+Constitution, copied after that of his native State, New York. The
+Northern element prevailed in that convention, and California came
+in a free State by its unanimous vote. Broderick headed the
+Northern sentiment; Gwin, who had been a United States Marshal in
+Mississippi, the Southern. I met him often. He would come into a
+bar-room and say: "I did not come here to dig gold, but to
+represent you in the United States Senate." He would then say:
+"Come up all, and take a drink." I thought that was a strange way
+to inspire the people with the idea that he was the proper person
+to represent them in the United States Senate. He was elected, with
+Colonel Freemont, the first two United States Senators from
+California. At the next election for United States Senators,
+Broderick got absolute control, and although Gwin had fought him
+bitterly, they were the two senators to be elected again. Broderick
+had the magnanimity to induce his friends to go for Gwin and had
+him elected with him, and Gwin showed his ingratitude by going at
+once to Washington and securing from Buchanan the control of all
+the appointments of the government in the State of California. So
+when Broderick came there, there were none to give his friends.
+Gwin was afterward very prominent in the rebellion. He went out in
+a boat in Charleston harbor, crying out from it his advice to Major
+Anderson, advising him to surrender at the time of the attack on
+Fort Sumter. (This is a matter of history that occurred after the
+time of which I am writing.)</p>
+<br>
+<a name="BULL"></a>
+<h2>A BULL FIGHT.</h2>
+<p>There were bills posted about the city that three of the most
+celebrated fighters of Mexico would have an exhibition in the
+evening, and combat with animals. As my friend and myself never had
+seen one we thought we would go. It was an amphitheatre, with
+circular seats about the pit, with thick planks around it, the
+seats commencing about twenty feet from the bottom of the pit.
+There was a door at the side of the pit, which was raised by
+pulleys, which admitted the bull. They were wild ones. Our seat was
+about the fifth row back. The house was crowded and brilliantly
+illuminated. Then the bull-fighters were in the pit, one on
+horseback, two on foot, gorgeously and brilliantly dressed, with
+swords, the blades pointed like spears, with red flags in their
+hands to attract the bull. The door was raised and the animal came
+rushing in; he was a terrible one to look at. Blinded by the lights
+and the scene, he rushed and roared around the arena; I trembled in
+my seat, although I was in no possible danger. The first feat of
+the bull-fighters was to plant a rosette on the shoulders of the
+animal with a barb implanted in his flesh, which enraged him more,
+with colored ribbons, two or three feet in length, attached to the
+rosette, which was flying in the air as he went around, indicating
+to the audience the success of the feat. Then the same feat was
+performed on the other shoulder. Then when the bull attacked the
+man again, a rosette was implanted between his horns, and the man
+escaped, which was the most difficult of all. They had red flags in
+one hand to enrage and blind him, but this bull, he became so
+furious and enraged that they could not master him. He rushed upon
+the man on horseback, threw the horse and rider, and, with his
+horns, tore the entrails out of the horse and killed it. The man
+was wounded, but escaped. The rest of the fighters fled, and one
+climbed up the side of the paling and came within two inches of
+being impaled alive against the side by the bull's horns. As I
+write I can, in imagination, hear the sound of the animal's horns
+as they struck the boards in missing the man. The bull was master
+of the situation; he had cleared the ring. It was a terrible sight
+as he roared around in his fury. Then the most startling event of
+all occurred. It seems incredible, but it is the truth of history,
+and I must write it.</p>
+<center><img src="./images/illus116a.png" height="291" width="450"
+alt=" THE BULL FIGHT"></center>
+<p>A greaser, with no weapon, but simply his <i>seraper</i>, a
+shawl that he wore around his shoulders, took that off and
+stretching it out in his hands, jumped down into the pit of the
+ring alone, to the entire astonishment of the audience, looked Mr.
+Bull in the eyes and dodged him with his shawl as the animal
+attacked him. He had probably been brought up among wild bulls. The
+audience all arose in excitement, expecting to see him torn to
+pieces, and crying out for him to escape. The professional
+bull-fighters got their red flags and drew the bull off, and the
+greaser escaped, and seemed to be surprised at the excitement of
+the audience. They succeeded in getting the bull out, and dragging
+out the dead horse, and letting in a less ferocious one. The same
+performance was gone through with him, as already described, except
+that this one was conquered. At last, when the bull pitched at the
+man, he holds his sword in such a way that the weight of the animal
+comes on it, and passes between his foreshoulders and penetrates
+his heart. In an instant the back wilts and the animal lies dead.
+It was the most sudden change, from full vitality to death; it
+startled you. It's a shock to your nervous system. My friend and
+myself said it was the first and last bull-fight we would ever
+see.</p>
+<p>The price of lumber and vegetables kept up. I paid forty cents a
+pound for potatoes in buying provisions for the hands on my brig. I
+furnished them enough to last them on the up trip, but not for the
+return, so they would hurry back. It was now time for the vessel
+with the houses to arrive, and I expected to buy a ship with the
+money, and to go to the Sandwich Islands and make, what I
+considered, a fortune for me, but alas! no <i>Prince de
+Joinville</i> came. It was hope deferred. Finally the rainy season
+set in in full blast, and all consumption of lumber stopped. The
+high price had stimulated shipments from everywhere. There was a
+big reaction in the price. The first prominent failure in the city
+took place, I think it was Ward &amp; Co., commission merchants and
+private bankers. It was said it was owing to his large orders of
+shipments of lumber to that market. He shot himself with a pistol
+in the morning in his bedroom and died, knowing that he could not
+meet his creditors if he went to his place of business. About this
+time it was announced from Telegraph Hill that my vessel, with the
+houses, was entering the port two or three months after she was
+due, striking a glutted market. I had four or five thousand dollars
+to raise to pay the freight on them to get possession of them, or I
+would lose the capital invested. So instead of making $18,000
+profit, which I might have made if they had come on time, I was
+running the risk of losing the capital invested in them. Colonel
+Stevenson had selected six of them some time before, which he
+wanted for his New York of the Pacific, which he said he would make
+me an offer on as soon as they arrived. I saw it was my only chance
+to save myself to close that sale. I was at his office in the
+morning as soon as there was any probability of they being there. I
+said to him: "The houses have arrived. I am ready to receive your
+offer for the six you selected." He said he had no money now. I
+said I did not want any (which was a white lie). I said I would
+take a draft on Prosper, Whetmore &amp; Co., of New York city, for
+$3,000, payable in ninety days, and his note for the balance, on
+his own time. He looked over the plan of the houses again. He said
+he would not give but so much. I said to him, that was not the
+question, what will you give? He said I will give you that amount,
+naming the sum. I said at once, they are sold, they are yours. He
+gave me the draft on Whetmore &amp; Co., for $3,000, payable in
+ninety days. Just at this time, his partner, Dr. Parker, came in.
+The colonel informed him he had bought six of my houses. He said,
+you have made a mistake. Lumber is in a glutted market. It is
+falling rapidly. The colonel said, that makes no difference now, I
+have bought them. The colonel was considered rich. No one there
+questioned the soundness of his draft. I went with it to all the
+brokers in the city, but could get no offer for it. I then went to
+Charley Minton, the agent of the steamer <i>Senator</i>. I thought
+he could send it to New York to the owners of the steamer for its
+face value. He said, the best he could do with me was to give me
+$2,250 for it. Money was ten per cent a month, and scarce at that.
+Three months time, at the rate of interest there, would be $900. I
+said, I would take it. He gave me a check on his broker for that
+amount. He paid me in gold, $16 Spanish doubloon pieces. I tied
+them up in my handkerchief, and went to McCondery &amp; Co., and
+said to him, the vessel, with my houses, I see, are consigned to
+you. I will pay you $2,000 now on the freight, and before they are
+all taken off of the ship, I will pay you the balance. He said,
+take them all off, and pay the balance at your convenience (we were
+acquainted and had come up on the same steamer, and played whist
+together). It cost me $800 to get them ashore. There were no
+wharves then. They had to be taken ashore on lighters. I expected
+my brig down from Stockton soon, with $2,000 freight money, so I
+was out of the woods financially for the present. I then made
+arrangement with the colonel to have them landed on the North Beach
+on land owned by him, where I could retail out my other six houses,
+which I had to sell, when I got a proper price for them. We formed
+a copartnership. I was to take one of my smallest houses, and have
+it erected there, to be used for an office, and to use the grounds
+as a lumber yard to sell on commission, and as a place for storage,
+which was very scarce then. There were quite a number who had taken
+the liberty of piling lumber and other articles on it, using it as
+public ground. I took formal possession of it in the name of
+Colonel Stevenson, and gave notice to the different parties that if
+they did not remove their materials from the premises in ten days
+they would be charged so much for storage. Some removed, and others
+did not. I recollect the German house that did not remove it in
+thirty days after the ten days of notice. It was a wealthy house,
+and I handed them a bill of $250 for storage, at which they
+demurred very seriously, questioning our title; but they paid it.
+When I went out to the ship to see about taking my houses off, I
+met the first mate, whom I got acquainted with in New York. I told
+him I thought the ship had been lost; that all the old tugs of
+ships had got in ahead of them. He said to me, I have had the worst
+time I ever had in my life. I have had to carry that old man on my
+shoulders (referring to the captain) all the way. Whenever we had a
+good breeze and sails were all full, he would come on deck and
+order shorten sail to check our speed, or we might have been here a
+month sooner. That told the whole story. I saw them take freight,
+in my presence, when they were offered $1.50 per foot, when they
+told me there was no room for the other half of my houses to go on
+the ship, when I had a legal contract with them at sixty cents per
+foot. My freight alone would have made a difference of two or three
+thousand dollars by excluding it and taking the other in at the
+difference in the price of it. There is no doubt they served many
+other shippers and put their goods on other vessels, and kept
+theirs back until the other ships would get to San Francisco ahead
+of them, so that they could deliver the freight according to their
+bills of lading on the arrival of the <i>Prince de Joinville</i>.
+That was why my speculation was ruined by their dishonesty. Instead
+of being the fastest ship, it was a fraud, a decoy, a dead trap on
+those who were unfortunate enough to ship by it. When I saw the
+captain he was very humble. He had all kinds of apologies to make,
+and invited me to go to China with him. I could have the best
+state-room on his ship. It should not cost me a dollar. I could go
+around the world with him. I saw that my speculation was ruined by
+their dishonesty, and there was no remedy, and, like all human
+events, that ended it, and I had to abandon my Sandwich Island
+expedition and throw my anticipated fortune from it to the winds.
+Mr. Meighs, the one who failed and ran away to Chili, and built the
+railroad in that country from Valparaiso to its capital, and then
+organized a company and constructed railroads in Peru, had a lumber
+yard side of me. I sold, after a while, my other six houses, one at
+a time, retailing them out, and, by careful management, just
+succeeded in saving my original capital.</p>
+<p>I was satisfied with San Francisco, with my interest in the
+lumber yards, and with my partnership with Colonel Stevenson on the
+North Beach. My interest in my brig, when it came down, and my
+prospective interest in what was to be the city of Toulom, and my
+associations with Mr. R., who was building the first brewery on the
+Pacific, which I was backing up with my indorsement, and I was to
+have one-third interest when it was completed, if I wanted it, at
+first cost, looked like a very favorable investment for me at that
+time. I was living an active and enterprising life, with bright
+hopes of future fortune. One morning when I went down to the North
+Beach I found there had been a house erected on our land in the
+night. I, of course, informed the colonel at once. He informed me
+it was a man by the name of Colton, who pretended to have a title
+under what he called the "Colton Grant," and that it was bogus, and
+that he had the building erected to try and force his title. The
+colonel said he would see the judge of the court in the city, and
+get an order for its removal. In about two hours he sent a
+messenger with an order from the judge authorizing us to remove it.
+He instructed me to employ all the men that were necessary, and
+have the material removed from the premises and he would pay the
+bill, which I did, and our title was not disputed after that.</p>
+<p>I had never been on a trip to Stockton, and I had chartered the
+freight capacity of the brig to a man for $1,800. He was to put in
+it all the freight he chose to. I thought it would not be for his
+interest to overload it. If the vessel sunk there was no
+insurance&mdash;his cargo would be a total loss. I had reserved the
+deck and the passenger room. The conditions of the charter were
+that the freight was to be delivered in Stockton by a certain date
+or I was to forfeit the $1,800. The freight was aboard; he had
+loaded the vessel deeper than I had expected. I had a number of
+passengers at $15 each. They were to furnish their own provisions,
+but to have the privileges of the cooking stove on deck. The vessel
+was anchored out in the bay, to sail at 2 P.M., when the tide was
+most favorable. I had a new chain for the anchor, and the captain
+said he wanted a kedge anchor for safety, so I ordered one from
+McCondery &amp; Co., for $35, on condition that, without fail, they
+would have it on board before 2 P.M. We were all on board by 1
+o'clock, waiting for the favorable tide, to start. At 1:30 no
+anchor and the bay was very rough. The captain said it would not
+come, they would not venture out in that sea in a small boat. I
+said it would be there certain, I knew my man. Sure enough, in a
+few moments we could just see a boat in the distance, two men
+rowing and one guiding the rudder. They came alongside and we had
+the anchor aboard in five minutes. In the stern was Mr. Watson, one
+of the firm. He said he was afraid to trust his men in that sea for
+fear they would fail to deliver it. The profit on it to them was
+only $3.50, and it was a very wealthy firm, but they had pledged
+their word to me that they would have it there at that time. (Would
+that there were more of such honorable men.) We hoisted anchor, the
+tide in our favor and a stiff breeze blowing. We passed out of the
+bay of San Francisco into the bay of Los Angles, and crossed that
+into the Straits of Benica, which is four miles long and connects
+with Suisan bay. The Straits of Benica was a perfectly safe
+anchorage. It was approaching night, and blowing almost a gale. I
+was in hopes and expected that the captain would come to anchor in
+the straits and wait until morning before venturing out into the
+Suisan bay, which was twenty miles across to the mouth of the San
+Joaquin river, where we were bound. The bay was almost like the
+open sea; you could get out of sight of land. I think he would have
+come to anchor if I, the owner, had not been on board, and had not
+urged upon him the importance of having the vessel in Stockton in
+time. As he was the captain I felt sensitive about interfering with
+his business, and had hoped and expected, all the way through the
+straits, that he would come to anchor, and not undertake to cross
+the bay that night. Darkness was setting in, but he did not come to
+anchor. The gale increased to a hurricane; all sails were taken in,
+and we were scudding under bare poles, and had a lantern hung up in
+the rigging. The captain came to me and said, loaded as we were, we
+could not live in that gale; he would have to seek a place to
+anchor on the side of the bay. I said to him, he was the captain.
+The line was thrown out every few minutes. At last we found
+sounding, and the anchor was cast. We had been there but a short
+time before another vessel, more than twice as large as ours, came
+aside of us, with a heavy deck-load of lumber, and got entangled in
+our anchor chain, and kept drawing us nearer to them. If they had
+struck our vessel we knew we were lost. They would have sunk us at
+once. Seven times they came down on us and each time, by superhuman
+efforts, we warded the blow, all hands and passengers doing their
+best, fully realizing the danger they were in. It seems to me that
+I hear now the oaths of the captain of the other vessel rising
+above the sounds of the terrific hurricane as he was ordering his
+men, for they, too, were in danger if they collided with us. Of
+course, he was on the bare poles. As he came on us the eighth time
+they hoisted their jib sail. As the wind struck it, it seemed to
+lift their vessel out of the water, and, thank God, we were freed
+from it. It was forty-five years ago, and, as I write, it all lives
+before me as visible as if it were yesterday. The captain of the
+other vessel had seen our light, and, supposing we were in the
+right channel, had followed us. We had escaped what seemed almost
+certain death, but were not out of danger. Our new good chain was
+attached to our bad chain, and the captain had let out all our
+chain to free us from the other vessel, so we were actually hanging
+by our bad chain in the open roadstead, not in the protection of a
+harbor, and liable to drag our anchor or break our chain and be
+wrecked; but we could do nothing more than submit to our fate. I
+thought I would get into my berth and try and get to sleep, and, if
+I found myself alive in the morning, we might be saved. I did
+sleep, and when I awoke it was daylight. The gale was subsiding. We
+had dragged our anchor. The bow of our brig was very sharp; the
+banks were soft mud, and we had struck it with such force that we
+were wedged in. The tide was low and we were almost out of water.
+We fortunately had struck the land with our bow, and that was what
+saved us. If we had struck with the side of the vessel we would
+have been wrecked. So, ever since we had been freed from the other
+vessel, we had been in safety and did not know it. We waited for
+the tide to rise and then got our kedge anchor out and pulled the
+vessel out off the bank as the tide rose. The sea was very rough,
+but the gale had subsided, and by 11 o'clock we were entering the
+mouth of the San Joaquin river in safety. It was forty miles up the
+river to Stockton. The river was in a valley of Tullieries. The
+land seemed to be in the course of formation. There was but one
+tree between the mouth and Stockton, a willow, called the Lone
+Tree. The only place on its banks where the soil had formed solid
+enough to produce one, surrounded by hills at that season of the
+year, covered with beautiful wild flowers. The scenery was
+magnificent. As the river curved we could see the white sails of
+other vessels. They looked as if they were in a field. You could
+not see the water at a little distance, the river being narrow. We
+could almost jump from our deck to the banks. We felt in perfect
+safety. Contrasting that with the night before in that terrible
+hurricane and in the death struggles for our lives, it produced a
+supreme feeling of ethereal ideal happiness that this earth seemed
+almost a Paradise. The captain informed me that there was one place
+on the river where we might have to anchor. It was called the
+Devil's Elbow. There was a sharp turn in the river and the current
+was rapid, and we might have to pull the vessel around it; but
+sometimes, if it was favorable, he could sail around it, and if
+done successfully, then the vessels that had come to anchor could
+find no fault; otherwise you had to come to behind the others and
+take your turn. When we were coming to it, he was at the helm and I
+at his side, to see what was the best to do. As we approached, we
+saw several vessels had come to for the purpose of pulling around.
+The last was a large vessel that the captain said could never get
+around. If we anchored behind it we might not be able to deliver
+our freight according to the charter. We had put an English sailor
+in the hold to let the anchor go, in case we did not succeed, if we
+gave him the signal to do so. As we came to the place with all
+sails set, there was a breeze sprung up, filling all the sails. I
+said to the captain, let her go. As we passed the vessels that had
+come to anchor there was a howling and yelling from them of
+derision and anger at us for going by them. Just as we got
+two-thirds of the way around, the sailor in the hold let the anchor
+go without orders. He got frightened. If he had not, we would have
+made it successfully. As it was, we got ahead of all the other
+vessels, and got to Stockton in ample time. The next morning there
+was a drove of mules at the side of the brig, and the cargo was
+being discharged and packed on their backs to be taken to the
+mining camps, as there were no good roads there in those early
+days. About all the grain and flour came from Valparaiso and Chili,
+put up very nicely in fifty and one hundred pound sacks, so it was
+easy to handle. As soon as all the mules were packed, the head
+mule, who had on a bell fastened around his neck, which rang as he
+went, was started first, and all the rest, in single file, followed
+him, and they were going for the different mining camps in the
+interior. In two or three days we were unloaded, and we were
+prepared to return. The freight money was paid to me in gold, at
+$16 per ounce in full, all being satisfactory to the shipper. I had
+delivered it within the time specified. One of the passengers who
+came up with me, a tailor, from Salem, Mass., asked me if I would
+not give him a free passage back on the vessel to San Francisco;
+that he wanted to try to get home; he was discouraged. I said to
+him you have traveled eighteen thousand miles to get to the gold
+mines, and now you are within half a day of them and want to go
+home without trying your fortune. If you do go, you will never
+forgive yourself, but go to the mines and try your luck; then, if
+you are discouraged and want to go back, I will give you a free
+passage, as we have no passengers on our return trip.</p>
+<br>
+<a name="HOME"></a>
+<h2>HOME SICKNESS.</h2>
+<p>When a person was attacked with it, it seemed the worst kind of
+malady, as it would take them months to return if they had the
+money to pay their passage. Many were married men, separated a
+great distance from their wives and children. Others, young men,
+who had their engaged ones waiting for them to return, with their
+fortunes made in the gold mines, to marry them. I can recall
+several instances where I have known them to lie down and die from
+despair. I was talking with an old Californian of those days. He
+said he had once given up and made up his mind to wander off by
+himself on the mountains and die, which he did. As he lay there in
+despair, after a while he thought he would look around him, and he
+saw the hill was covered with every variety of beautiful wild
+flowers. He said their beauty seemed to refresh and revive his
+mind, and give him new resolution, and he decided to try his
+fortune again, and he became successful and returned to the States
+with a competency.</p>
+<center><img src="./images/illus140a.png" height="309" width="450"
+alt=" THE DESPONDENT MINER."></center>
+<p>The early pioneers had some conflict with the Indians in the
+interior of the country. Five Oregon men were massacred by them
+when engaged in digging gold, but a terrible retribution was
+visited upon those Indians concerned in it by the enraged
+Forty-niners. The Indians, at first, had nothing but bows and
+arrows, and, of course, could not compete with rifles. Several
+other small engagements were rumored, but they soon gave up all
+contests with the whites, for they saw it was useless. There was an
+acorn that was quite plenty in California, being longer than ours,
+but not of a bitter taste. The squaws made flour of them. The
+Digger Indians were the next tribe east of them; they were probably
+the lowest grade. They would set fire to the prairie grass to burn
+the grasshoppers, and pick them up and eat them. They deemed them a
+luxury. The Oregon tribes were a higher grade, a warlike race, and
+superior in every respect. The highest grade of them, in the United
+States now, are the Choctaws and Chicksaws that formerly occupied
+the northern parts of the State of Mississippi. When a young man, I
+spent three weeks in their nation, travelling alone, and was
+treated with great hospitality by them. They are quite intelligent,
+and they have laws and customs as civilized nations. We generally
+look upon all of them as alike, but such is not the
+case&mdash;there is as great a difference between different tribes
+as much as between different white nations. The California Indians
+were not naturally warlike, and when the early pioneers expected
+any trouble from them, they would appoint a committee to go and see
+them, and they generally settled their difficulty without any
+conflicts.</p>
+<br>
+<a name="JESUIT"></a>
+<h2>JESUIT MISSION STATIONS.</h2>
+<p>There were about sixteen Jesuit missionary stations in the
+country before the discovery of gold, and were there for the
+purpose of converting the Indians to the Catholic church, and when
+converted, generally made them work to sustain their missionary
+establishments.</p>
+<p>I had returned to my office on the North Beach after my only
+trip to Stockton on my brig. My friend R. was progressing with his
+brewery. He had received a favorable letter from Lieutenant S.
+about our Touwalma city, and informing me that S. had a diamond
+ring that cost $800 in Rio Janeiro, at a broker's office, as
+collateral security for $250 borrowed on it at ten per cent per
+month, and the time was about up. If I would redeem the ring I
+could keep it and wear it until he paid me. I went and saw the
+ring. It was as represented, and I redeemed it and wore it for a
+considerable time. One day R. came to me with a naming letter from
+S. that he had laid out the city and been elected alcalde, and we
+would make our fortune, and there was a friend of S. that was going
+up there, and if I would send up the ring by him he would
+appreciate it so much, and he would be responsible that I should
+not lose any thing by it. I was foolish enough to be persuaded by
+him and handed him the ring, for which act I have never forgiven
+myself. That was the last I ever saw of the ring or any of the
+money invested in Touwalma city, for it turned out a failure. It
+was never the head of navigation on the river, or any thing else
+that was ever heard of.</p>
+<p>There were three unfortunate events that occurred in California
+in the winter months of 1849 and the beginning of 1850. The rainy
+season had destroyed all the dams constructed on the gold rivers
+and raceways, which had been constructed at great expense for the
+purpose of working the beds of the river for gold, the rivers often
+rising from ten to eighteen feet in a night, and the current
+running with terrible force. The second, the flooding of
+Sacramento, destroying large quantities of merchandise and carrying
+away and undermining the houses there. The third was the great fire
+in San Francisco, destroying one-third of the main business portion
+of the city, upon which there was no insurance. There were no
+companies organized or agents there to insure property then, as it
+was too risky. There was one four-story fire-proof building that
+was stored full of the most valuable goods, at a large price for
+storage, for it was considered absolutely fire-proof, but when the
+fire came the heat of the fire from the buildings around it caused
+the iron sides of it to expand, which let the roof fall in and
+burned every thing to the ground, so that nothing was saved.
+Instead of being a place of safety, it was the most destructive of
+all.</p>
+<p>Some ships in the bay were burned. I succeeded in getting in the
+rear of the fire to save my brig. I ordered the men to hoist anchor
+and put out further in the bay, which saved it. These unfortunate
+events destroyed and marred the fortune of many. On the day before
+I called on a private banker, G., on the plaza, and presented my
+check for $800. He said to me, if it made no difference, it being
+steamer day (once a month they went East when the gold was shipped
+to the mint in Philadelphia by them), and if I would call in the
+morning for it, it would be an accommodation to him. I said I
+wanted to use it. He commenced weighing it out. I then thought it
+would make no difference to me and it was mean not to accommodate
+him, for I might want some favor of him. I said, if I can have it
+in three days without fail it would answer my purpose. He said, you
+can have it now, pouring the gold in the scales to weigh it. I said
+never mind, I don't want it now. The fire came that night, burnt
+his place up and all his property. He was a ruined man. I never saw
+him afterward.</p>
+<p>Mr. G., to whom I had bargained to sell my houses to arrive,
+(and he backed out) was an Englishman from Liverpool. He had about
+all the consignments of shipments from that city (evidently being
+very popular there), to sell on commission at ten per cent; when
+the goods came and were sold, instead of remitting the capital to
+the owners and being satisfied with his commission, he used it in
+buying property and in erecting buildings in San Francisco. He had
+constructed a fire-proof building which he rented to the government
+for a post-office, at a large sum per month, likewise the first
+theatre in the city, and other buildings. He informed me at one
+time how much his rents amounted to per month; the sum was several
+thousand dollars. Money was worth but three to five per cent in
+England per year to the owners of the merchandise; while in
+California it was in demand at ten per cent per month. I suppose he
+thought he would make a great fortune for himself and then return
+to England (where he had a wife and children) and pay up all his
+obligations with extra allowance, for the use of the money, and
+make all satisfactory; but the great fire destroyed all his
+buildings, and he was a ruined man, there being no insurance in the
+city then. I met a friend in New York about two years after my
+return from California; I asked him when he saw Mr. G. last. He
+said, "it was about 11 o'clock one day at a hotel where he invited
+some friends to take a drink. Mr. G. was there, he declined; but
+afterward called him to one side and asked him to loan him $1,
+saying he had had no breakfast that morning." Such was an example
+of some of the fluctuations of fortune in those days.</p>
+<p>Some parties came with various kinds of machinery that was to
+make a certain fortune for them, and was taken up into the interior
+at great expense. I never knew of one that was successful. About
+all the companies that were formed in the States to go around Cape
+Horn for mining purposes generally dissolved after arriving in
+California, but what they brought with them for supplies, sold for
+so high a price that it generally sold for more than the cost of
+their passage, and they had money coming to them. Some companies
+bought the ships as they came in and hired the captain. I recollect
+one, called the <i>Mechanics' Own</i>. Every person joining their
+company in the States had to be voted in and pay $1,000. They put
+on airs and talked quite aristocratic of their captain as their
+boy.</p>
+<p>Three persons started the first bank in San Francisco, called
+the Miners' Bank, on the northwestern corner of the plaza. Mr.
+Haight, who was from Rochester, N.Y., and the sutler of Colonel
+Stevenson's regiment, was one of them. It was said that at first
+they bought gold as low as $8 per ounce, when it was worth more
+than $18 at the mint East. The owners of the bank made $100,000
+each in three or four years.</p>
+<p>Before the discovery of gold the then small places on the
+Pacific Coast obtained their supplies from small trading vessels
+that sailed along the coast and stopped at their towns
+occasionally. After the discovery of gold, at first goods went up
+four or five times their previous value, and when one of these
+vessels was seen entering the port, parties would put out in small
+boats to get aboard of them before they came to anchor (they on
+board knowing nothing about the discovery of the gold), would
+bargain with them for some of their goods, and finally offer them
+so much for all their cargo. It being beyond their expectations the
+offer was generally accepted, and thus some big speculations were
+made.</p>
+<p>A lieutenant of Stevenson's regiment, who had been down in
+Monterey and had not heard of the gold discovery, on his first day
+in San Francisco, informed me that he did not know what to make of
+things. Most of his old acquaintances wanted to know if he did not
+want to borrow some money; they had some that he could have as well
+as not.</p>
+<p>The steamers came in once a month with letters and papers. Then
+long lines were formed to the post-office. Sometimes it took half a
+day to get there. The New York papers at first sold for $1 each.
+Then they got down to fifty cents. I sold the <i>New York
+Herald</i>, that was more than a month old, that contained the
+latest news there from the States in the interior, for $5, and the
+man coaxed it out of me at that, for I wanted to give it to a party
+of friends I was going to see in the mining districts. I knew it
+would be a great treat to them. It is almost impossible to recall
+all the exact scenes of those days, so as to have them fully
+realized by the reader.</p>
+<p>The city of San Francisco was extending more rapidly in what
+they called the Happy Valley district, which was toward the Mission
+of Dolores, established by the Jesuits. I visited it when the
+building was intact. I recollect a painting of an Indian warrior,
+with his bows and arrows, the implements of war, represented as a
+saint ascending to heaven&mdash;I suppose to create favorable
+impression on Indians and make converts of them.</p>
+<p>My friend was going on with his brewery, and borrowing money and
+getting me deeper on his paper. He heard that I had $2,500
+deposited with McCondery &amp; Co., and pleaded with me to let him
+have it as it would carry him through. I had lost all confidence in
+him, and felt it would be like throwing it in the sea. I informed
+him that I had shipped it the day before, which I had not, but went
+right down and gave an order for its shipment, for fear he might
+over-persuade me to let him have it, and I thus saved it. When most
+completed, a barrel of alcohol that was in the building bursted,
+and it ran down to the furnace and set it on fire, and burnt it up.
+That was the fate of the first brewery started in California. Since
+then there have been millions made in that business there.</p>
+<p>The North Beach property, after I had sold all my houses out, I
+closed my interest in. It proved a failure to use for a wharf or
+shipping point.</p>
+<p>During the seven months of summer the north-west wind blew there
+so hard every afternoon that it was not a safe place for vessels,
+and the property would never have any value for that purpose, and I
+do not think it has ever been used since for that.</p>
+<p>In the winter months, which is generally the rainy season, the
+wind blows from the south for five months, and the other seven
+months it blows from the north-west over six thousand miles of
+ocean, and, consequently, is not impregnated with any decayed
+vegetable matter, and is as pure as air can be. In San Francisco
+the sun would rise in a clear sky every morning and there would be
+a perfect calm; by 11 A.M. there would be a little breeze; by 2 or
+3 o'clock, a gale. When the sun set the wind would subside and
+there would be a perfect calm again. Every day would be the same,
+month after month. What was almost a gale on the coast would be a
+gentle breeze up in the mining district, in the interior. The next
+day that air would be displaced by another gale from over the
+thousand miles of ocean, for it is impossible to imagine any other
+country with purer air.</p>
+<p>During that time there were various visionary reports of new
+discoveries of gold regions, one of a lake that the sands of its
+banks were rich with gold. All you had to do, to make your fortune,
+was to wash it out, which produced quite a sensation, and parties
+were organized to go there, but they never found it. The next year
+after the purchase of my brig, there were small steamers
+constructed to run to Stockton, and they had already some sailing
+vessels put on, built there, and the price of freight had commenced
+falling, and I thought I had better sell my vessel while I could
+get a good price for it. There was a man who came to me and said he
+wanted to buy it; that he had been a captain of a boat on Lake
+Erie. I stated to him my price for it. He said that was not out of
+the way, but he would like to try it one trip before closing the
+purchase, and referred me to a mercantile house there as his
+reference. They said he had run vessels for them on Lake Erie when
+they were doing business in Buffalo. I concluded that was entirely
+satisfactory; that that had evidently been his regular business. He
+said he wanted to employ all his own hands. I had the vessel, at
+the time, half loaded with freight, which I turned over to him. I
+paid my men and discharged them, and told them the vessel was about
+to change owners, and put him in full possession of it. Of course I
+had nothing more to do with it until he returned from the trip to
+Stockton; then I expected he would close the purchase as he said
+that the price was satisfactory to him. After a few weeks I
+commenced looking for the return of my brig, but it did not come.
+Finally I heard a rumor that the captain had left the vessel at
+Stockton, but did not believe it, but thought that some accident
+might have happened. I had borrowed a spy-glass to investigate the
+bay. I could have recognized my vessel by the red streak around it.
+Finally, after it had been gone long enough to make several trips,
+I discovered it at anchor in the bay. I went and supplied myself
+with money, in case it should prove true that the captain had left
+the vessel, to pay his men in full before they got ashore, because
+the vessel was liable for their wages, whoever might have employed
+them; so I hired a boat to row me out to it. I met a man on the
+deck that seemed to be in command. I inquired of him where the
+captain was. He said he had run away. I spoke to him in a sharp
+tone of voice and said, how do you know that? He said, because I
+saw him on the back of a mule going over the plain. Then he asked
+me, are you the owner? I said, yes. Then I said, you have all got
+your pay before he went; I did not employ you. He said, some of
+them have got some.</p>
+<p>As you seem to be in command, I suppose you have kept an account
+of how it stands. He said, "Come down in the cabin and I will show
+it to you." I said, "It was hard on me to be robbed of all my
+freight money, but it was also hard for them to be cheated out of
+their hard earnings, and I would see what I could do for them." He
+presented the statement of what each man had received and what was
+due them. I was surprised at his correctness. I said: It seems all
+right and I would pay them, which I did, and took their receipt. I
+was afraid if they went ashore and found the vessel was liable for
+their wages they might make any kind of demands, so I got
+possession of my vessel again, very much damaged. Before leaving
+the port he had let the steamer <i>Senator</i> run into the bows of
+the vessel, and it cost me $700 to have it repaired, ship
+carpenters' wages being $20 per day, payable in gold. The events
+which I had anticipated of the decline of that kind of property had
+come, and, after it was repaired, I put it up at auction and sold
+it, so that rascal cost me several thousand dollars. Such was life
+in California in the days of the Forty-niners.</p>
+<p>Having some leisure I thought I would take a trip up the mining
+regions, and make a visit to my old friends there. More than a year
+had passed, and greater changes had taken place than would have
+occurred in any other country in many years. The population of
+California increased one hundred thousand the first year after the
+discovery of the gold, which had accounted for the great changes
+which had taken place since my previous trip. I went up on the
+steamer <i>Senator</i> to Sacramento, which had become quite a
+city, and the next morning started for Coloma in a stage full of
+passengers, drawn by mules. I took a seat aside of the driver. I
+got in conversation with the driver. I asked him what pay he
+received? He said, only $450 per month and his board. I asked him
+if he had driven stages before? He said, yes, out of Boston. I
+said, at what wages? He said, $14 a month. I said that there was a
+big difference between that and $450. He said, yes, but that this
+was his last trip. He took a party of three up only a few weeks
+ago, and he brought them down yesterday, and they had between
+$3,000 and $4,000 apiece, and he was not going to waste his time
+driving for $450 a month. He was going to the mines the next day.
+It was quite probable that the party referred to had made an
+unusual lucky strike, for I had met parties that had done the same
+thing. I had had in my hands at one time, in San Francisco, a piece
+of solid gold metal, something in the shape of the cover of a sugar
+loaf, that was worth $4,500, found by a couple of green Irishmen.
+They inquired of some miners in the interior where was a good place
+to dig. The miners said in fun, dig there in that sand bank behind
+you. The Irishmen took them up in earnest and went to digging. In a
+short time they found that chunk of gold, where no experienced
+miner would think of digging.</p>
+<p>I have dug gold in the cellar of the brewery in San Francisco. I
+think most all the soil of that part of California is impregnated
+with gold. But the point is to find it in sufficient quantities to
+pay to dig it. As an illustration, if you knew that in a certain
+piece of ground there was $5,000 worth of gold, and it cost you
+$10,000 to wash all the ground to get it, of course that land would
+have no gold value. I found at Coloma that my friends had left the
+Dutch bar and gone to the middle fork of the American river, some
+distance from there. I got directions how to get there and started
+on foot. Toward night I met a young man who had just came overland
+and had separated that day from his party to get work in the mining
+camp. I told him where I was going, and that he had better go with
+me, and that he could get from $10 to $16 per day to work for other
+parties, or to join two others and work a claim for himself, which
+he did. So as it was getting toward night, we camped under a tree
+and slept until morning, and took a fresh start. That day we found
+the middle fork of the American river and my friends. The river was
+sunk way down in the earth. It seemed almost a mile down to the
+water where they were to work. It was quite a large mining place.
+The excitement there every day was when the "dummy" went into the
+river. It was a diving armor that had been used in the gulf of
+Lower California to go down in the deep waters to hunt for pearls,
+and had been bought by a party of five, each putting in $800,
+making $4,000, expecting to make their fortunes by getting into the
+deep water of the gold rivers. (As I have shown before, the
+torrents and force of the currents had prevented any gold from ever
+lodging there.) Every day at such an hour, it was announced that
+the "dummy" was a going in the river. The other miners quit their
+work to see it, and the proprietors of the "dummy" always treated
+the crowd in the most lavish manner. Its credit was good for any
+store bills. Its always treating the crowd had made it popular, and
+nobody would trade with the storekeeper who would not trust it, so
+it was death to the prosperity of the storekeeper, whether he
+trusted it or not. They never got any gold while there through
+"dummy," and when he left to go further down the river to try
+another place, the main storekeeper there lost $800 by trusting it,
+which broke him. These stores were tents, to supply immediate wants
+of the miners. I never heard of "dummy" afterward. I have no doubt
+he operated on all the store tents until he came to grief like all
+evil-doers.</p>
+<p>The productiveness of the gold rivers had not diminished any
+that I could perceive. I talked to a man who had been off a little
+ways to prospect in another place. I asked him what luck? He said,
+there was nothing there. I said, was there no gold? He said; yes,
+there was some, but of no value. He said a man could make $10 a
+day, and who was a going to waste their time on that. My visit
+over, I returned to San Francisco. My friend R.'s brewery was not
+completed. I was informed he had been borrowing money from a Jew at
+twenty per cent a month. It was no use for me to back him any more,
+however valuable it might be, if completed, and I had no doubt
+there was a fortune in it, but neither he nor I had the capital to
+do it.</p>
+<p>I had some other financial entangling matters, and I was afraid
+if I kept on with them I might get broke, and the only way I saw of
+getting out with them was to announce that I was going to leave,
+and going down to Relago, Central America.</p>
+<p>There was an English steamer advertised to sail for that port
+and Panama. I thought I would go for sixty days and then return and
+commence again and manage my affairs in a more conservative way,
+and what I could control. Well I closed my matters out the best I
+could and engaged my passage on the steamer for Relago. There was
+considerable excitement at this time about the Nicaragua route. The
+above place would be the terminus on the Pacific coast, and,
+consequently, a place of importance. As I had missed it in trading
+six of my houses for lots in San Francisco, there might be a chance
+to get some there in advance of any rise on them. Any way, I wanted
+to get out of my entangling alliances and take a fresh start. The
+night before I sailed Mr. Brady (Colonel Stevenson's son-in-law)
+came to me and said the colonel did not like to have me go. I told
+him I had paid my passage, $200. He said the colonel understood
+that. He put his hand in his vest pocket and pulled out a roll of
+bills. He said, here is the $200, which he told me to give you, so
+you will not lose any thing by not going. There was once a lady,
+the wife of one of the officers of his regiment, who arrived there,
+expecting to meet her husband, but he was up in the country. The
+colonel asked me to go down to the steamer and meet her, and escort
+her to a boarding-house to stay until her husband arrived, which I
+did. I told him that she was short of funds, having expected to
+meet her husband. He gave me $150 and told me to give it to her, as
+if I loaned it to her, and when her husband paid me I could return
+it to him. I mention these little incidents to show that whatever
+faults he may have had, he was the most generous of friends.</p>
+<p>Colonels Stevenson, Freemont and Captain Sutter will stand
+pre-eminent in the future history of the State as its most
+prominent founders.</p>
+<p>I sailed out of the port of San Francisco on the steamer
+<i>Ecuador</i> for Relago, Central America, expecting to return to
+California within sixty days. In a few days, out at sea, we began
+to hear unfavorable rumors about our vessel; that the engineer had
+left the day before our sailing; that he did not consider it safe
+to go in it; that it could not carry coal enough to take it to
+Acapulco, the next coaling place. And we were informed that it was
+a steamer that had been running from Panama to Valparaiso, and had
+been bought up by a speculator and sent up to San Francisco as an
+experiment, to see if it would pay. The officers and men had never
+been up the coast before, and knew nothing about the port. One day
+we were startled in mid ocean by the stopping of the engine. We
+soon found the cause. The captain was about to try his sails so as
+to save coal (which verified the reports about being short of
+coal). We made some headway with the sails, but lost it again when
+the wind subsided, by the currents of the ocean; so that project
+was abandoned, and after some days we put into the port of San
+Blas, in Mexico, for fuel. There was no coal there, so we laid in
+all the wood we could to try and reach Acapulco (here we could not
+buy any thing with our $5 gold pieces, but they were ready to sell
+for silver). The cholera had been there, they said, but had left.
+The priests had had a procession, and, with their incense boxes,
+had marched through the streets and driven it out. We took in all
+the wood we could get and started to make the port of Acapulco, the
+regular coaling port for all the steamers on that coast. It was
+Sunday P.M. We could raise fuel enough to make only four knots an
+hour. It was an iron steamer. We were burning what there was of the
+woodwork of the vessel, for if we could not make the port before
+dark we were lost. The officers were not acquainted with the coast.
+We had not fuel enough to keep steam up all night, and we would be
+on the broad Pacific ocean, six thousand miles across, without the
+remotest possibility of meeting any other vessel, without any
+control of our steamer, subject to be driven in any direction. I
+heard the mate talking to the captain about the propriety of
+wrecking the vessel and saving what lives they could, although we
+were in sight of land. The captain said the under-tow was so great
+that none could be saved in that way. It is twice as great on the
+Pacific as the Atlantic. There were no female passengers. One man
+said he had $10,000 in gold with him; if his wife and children only
+had that he would be content to meet his fate, under the
+circumstances, but it was hard to leave them without it. All the
+passengers had more or less gold, or they would not have been
+returning.</p>
+<p>You can imagine with what anxiety we watched every indication of
+the coast to see if there was any chance of us nearing the port.
+Finally, toward night, we saw a high projection of land on the
+coast, and that was predicted that it was the entrance to the port.
+If we could reach that point before dark, we might be saved. The
+passengers went to work to break up any thing for the fires that
+would make steam. The captain made no objections, but told them to
+burn all woodwork on the vessel to save their lives. At dark we
+reached the point we had in view, and it was fortunate for us that
+it was the entrance to the port. As the vessel turned to enter, you
+could see, coming over the waters of the ocean, a tropical storm,
+accompanied with wind, thunder and lightning. Twenty minutes later
+it would have reached us, and we would have been lost. As soon as
+we got safely in port (and it was very dark), I can hear now, in
+imagination, the sound of the anchor as it was let down in the
+water, which assured our entire safety. It thundered and
+lightninged, and blowing a high gale, which was music in our ears,
+as we knew we were out of danger, and feeling the supreme
+gratification of knowing what we had escaped. Blessed to us was the
+high mountains which surrounded the port. The entrance to it is
+narrow, but when you get inside it is one of the safest harbors in
+the world, being perfectly land-locked. The next day opened on a
+happy lot of passengers. I felt as if I was commencing life anew.
+We went ashore expecting to be there several days, as they proposed
+to take in a full supply of coal. This place had been once quite a
+city, but many years ago had been partly destroyed by an
+earthquake. It was said that the water went out of the bay most to
+the tops of the mountains, and then reacted to its usual level in
+the harbor; that there was a French ship carried up to the sides of
+the mountains, and when the water reacted, carried back in safety
+in the harbor. Hundreds of buildings were destroyed, the ruins of
+which are now visible where the city once extended.</p>
+<p>I was introduced to General Alvarado. He was the most prominent
+man in Mexico, on the Pacific coast, at that time, and afterward
+became very prominent in the public affairs of his country. On our
+return to the vessel that evening there was quite an excitement on
+board. Among the passengers was a party of three who had been quite
+successful in Sacramento in the bottling of soda and summer beer,
+and peddling it out through the city. They had picked up by chance
+an old acquaintance from Waterford who belonged to an aristocratic
+family there, and by his habits of dissipation was a mortification
+to them. So when the California excitement broke out, they
+furnished him the money to go to the gold regions. It would either
+reform him or they would get rid of him. Of course, such men were
+no good in California, and he had spent his money and wanted to
+return. These men came across him and told him they were going to
+return East in sixty days, and if he would keep straight, and drive
+one of their wagons for them, they would take him home with them.
+When they went ashore the first day they left him in charge of
+their baggage, and promised him that he could go ashore the next.
+They had their private store of wines and brandy. He had found it
+and tried it and got full, and treated all the sailors and
+everybody on board that would drink with him, and was the most
+popular man on board with the sailors. He repented the next day and
+begged their forgiveness, and they took him home with them. Like a
+bad penny, he returned as he was before. Distance did not reform
+him.</p>
+<p>Well, our next port was Relago my destination. Just after dark
+one day we got opposite to what, according to the charts, was that
+port. It was necessary for them to wait until morning before they
+could undertake to enter it, as they had never been there before,
+and there were no pilots, and they decided not to let the steam go
+down, and they concluded that they would sail slowly around in a
+circle, so as to be opposite to the port in the morning. When
+morning came it was foggy, and we could not see the land. But they
+had such confidence in the correctness of their chart that they
+determined to enter it. Instead of the port, we came to the white
+caps, dashing against the rocks almost mountains high, and we came
+within an ace of being dashed to pieces against them. If the
+engineer had not reversed the movement of the engine the instant he
+did, we would have been wrecked. The captain was now completely
+befogged. In a short time he came to me with a paper to sign
+agreeing to go to Panama. It should cost me nothing extra for my
+passage there; that the few other passengers for that port had
+signed it. I thought I had better sign to go anywhere than to take
+any more chances in that steamer. Come to find out afterward,
+instead of being opposite the port that morning, we were twenty
+miles from it, the currents of the ocean having carried us that
+distance while we were sailing around in a circle, which they had
+not ciphered on, and thus came so near wrecking us. By chance we
+saw a sailing vessel. The captain gave orders for the steamer to
+follow it, and, when we overtook it, we found it was bound for
+Relago. There was a man on board of it who was acquainted with the
+port. They got him to come on our steamer and had him pilot us to
+that port, so I expected to go ashore, and got my baggage in
+readiness, and, when the time came, had it brought up on deck. They
+did not enter the port, but came to outside. There were two
+passengers, it seems, that would not sign the paper to go to
+Panama, and it was to land them he had come to, and when I went to
+have my baggage put in the small boat the captain informed me I had
+signed to go to Panama, and some of the other passengers said I was
+very foolish to risk my life in that sea in so small a boat. Before
+I scarcely knew it the boat had pushed off without me, and,
+consequently, the whole current and course of my life was changed.
+Upon such little incidents often do the events of human life
+depend. It may have been fortunate for me that I did not land
+there.</p>
+<p>There was in Nicaragua at the time a filibustering expedition
+under the command of Captain Walker, who went from California to
+overthrow the government there by taking sides with the
+revolutionary movement that had been started, and to get an
+American control of the government, which I did not approve of, for
+I considered it a dishonorable movement; but still, if I had
+landed, they being my countrymen, I might have got mixed up with
+them. They were conquered and all sentenced to death, and shot. It
+is barely possible I might have shared their fate. I have often
+thought since I made a good escape by not landing.</p>
+<br>
+<a name="PACIFIC"></a>
+<h2>SCENES ON THE PACIFIC OCEAN.</h2>
+<p>The course of the steamer is frequently in sight of land. The
+storms I have referred to were tropical storms, lasting but a short
+time. The ocean is generally very mild all the distance, three
+thousand five hundred miles from Panama to San Francisco. North of
+San Francisco the storms are somewhat similar to the Atlantic ocean
+storms. The passengers on the return trip were in the best of
+spirits; they were returning home; all of them had been more or
+less successful in California, and I can recall to my mind many
+pleasant times we had on board the steamship. The porpoise are very
+numerous on the Pacific ocean; there were often, for days, schools
+of them on the sides of the steamer, throwing themselves out of the
+water, and then diving in again; great numbers, at the same time,
+seeming like the motion of a revolving wheel. Occasionally we would
+hear the cry, "There she blows;" a jet of water being thrown up
+many feet high in the air&mdash;a sperm whale had come up to
+breathe. We frequently saw flying fish. One day there was a school
+of them landed on the steamer; they are similar to other fish,
+except having wings, but not of a very large size. At another time
+a booby bird came on the steamer. It got its name from its
+stupidity. We frequently saw them on the water, floating on a piece
+of board or a stick of wood; sailors say they have seen them five
+hundred miles out to sea in that way. This one you could take up
+and handle; it made no resistance. On the coast of Central America
+we saw two mountain peaks of great height, standing out,
+individually, like the Pyramids, said to be extinct volcanoes that
+were thrown up from the internal fires of the earth, and which, at
+one time, belched forth melted lava and fire.</p>
+<p>We arrived safe in Panama. I was so near home that I thought I
+might as well return and see my friends, and take a fresh start for
+California, and try my fortune once more. They had commenced
+building the railroad over the Isthmus, but it was not completed,
+so we crossed over to Cruize, the head of navigation on the Chagres
+river, and went down that to its mouth, and there took the steamer
+<i>Georgia</i> for New York, commanded by Captain Porter, of the
+United States navy&mdash;the man who had control of the vessels in
+going down the Mississippi river and successfully passing
+Vicksburg, which had so much to do with its capture. He was a
+perfect gentleman, and commanded your admiration with the skill of
+his management of the vessel. There were on the vessel well-dressed
+pickpockets, who went from New York to the Isthmus, to return by
+the steamers to the city, for the chances of robbing the returning
+Californians of their gold dust, as all of them had more or less of
+it on their persons. One unfortunate victim of their wiles appealed
+strongly to my sympathies. He was an English sailor, and had been
+two or three years up in the gold mines, and had $3,000 or $4,000
+in gold dust in a buckskin bag on his person. He showed it to me. I
+advised him to deposit it with the purser for safety; that I had
+done so with mine. He said they could not rob him. He was about the
+happiest man I ever saw. He was richer, in feeling, than the
+Vanderbilts. He said he had a wife and children in Liverpool, and
+would take the first steamer from New York for that port. He said
+he had not seen his family for several years, and now that he had
+the gold he could make them all happy. He was in the steerage. A
+few days after I heard he was sick. He had fainted. Some parties
+had helped him up; evidently pickpockets had taken that opportunity
+to rob him; his gold was all gone. I explained his case to Captain
+Porter, but nothing could be done. There was no way to identify his
+gold dust from any other; it was all alike. When he arrived in New
+York, he would have to go to the hospital until he got well enough
+to ship on some other vessel for $14 per month, and not be able to
+return to his wife and children with his gold, and make them happy,
+while these black-hearted villainsillians were spending his money,
+his hard earnings of years. I entered in a bond, with myself, that
+if I were ever on a jury I would never show any mercy to a
+thief.</p>
+<p>As we were sailing along many ships and schooners came in sight.
+We were evidently nearing the great port of New York. The land of
+Staten Island soon came in sight covered with snow. It was late in
+the fall. It was the first I had seen since my departure from the
+same port, except on the highest peaks of the Sierra Nevada
+mountains. Here ends my personal adventures of the days of the
+Forty-niners, to be continued by the peroration on California.</p>
+<br>
+<a name="PERORATION"></a>
+<h2>PERORATION.</h2>
+<p>On my return, in looking over my finances, I was no poorer than
+when I left. It must be evident to the reader that I had acquired
+no wealth to astonish my friends with my riches, which was the
+visionary expectation of the early pioneers to the gold Eldorado. I
+have been writing from personal recollections of events that
+occurred forty-five years ago. Of course, there was nothing in my
+enterprises, or the little fluctuations of fortune that would be of
+particular interest to any one; but in the form of a personal
+narrative, it was the only way I could recall vividly to my mind,
+the events of so long ago. There were a series of articles
+published in the <i>Century</i> magazine two years ago, which I
+read with great interest, for they were truthful, but no book has
+ever been published that took in fully those two years when common
+labor was $16 per day, payable in gold. Such an event was never
+known to occur before, and probably never will again. I have not
+drawn on my imagination in the least in this narrative. I have
+simply attempted to portray from memory events that actually
+occurred under my own observation. Any Forty-niner will concede the
+truth of my narrative. I did not return to California as I had
+expected. Cupid's arrow pierced my heart in the person of a young
+lady, and sealed my fate. I had a cottage built in the quiet and
+beautiful valley of Schoharie, where I have passed more than thirty
+years of happy married life. While not possessing the wealth of the
+successful pioneer, I have been content.</p>
+<p>"A MONUMENT TO JACOB A.L. FISHER, A UNION SOLDIER.</p>
+<p>"<i>Interview with Doctor Knower, who has Charge of
+It&mdash;Some Interesting Reminiscences of Forty-niners.</i></p>
+<p>"A monument to be erected in the Old Stone Fort Cemetery to
+Jacob A.L. Fisher, a Union soldier, by Abraham Schell, his uncle,
+of California.</p>
+<p>"A draft of the above monument is before us. It is quite an
+affair, about twenty-seven feet high, with a full length statue of
+a soldier on top. It is now being constructed in Des Moines, Iowa,
+to be shipped by the 1st of May, and unveiled on the 4th day of
+July, 1894, with appropriate ceremonies. Dr. Knower, in 76, in
+laying the corner-stone to the David Williams State monument, gave
+the grandest celebration that ever occurred in this county. This
+one he expects to rely to a great extent on the local army
+organizations of the county, as this honor paid to one of their
+compatriots in arms is an honor to them.</p>
+<p>"We have before us a copy of the Stockton (Cal.) <i>Evening
+Mail</i> of November 9, 1893, containing a seven column article
+descriptive of Abraham Schell's vineyard at Knight's Ferry, Cal. We
+quote from it: 'A characteristic act of Abraham Schell was to give
+a deed to the entire place and all of its appurtenances, last
+summer, to Herrick R. Schell, his nephew, who had served him
+faithfully as assistant and business associate for twenty-six
+years.' The property conveyed consisted of three thousand acres,
+upon which Mr. Schell had expended at the time the deed was given a
+quarter of a million of dollars. We see by the same article that
+Abraham Schell's landed purchases in that locality, in the early
+days, amounted to fifteen thousand five hundred and thirty-five
+acres.</p>
+<p>"Mr. Schell joined a company formed by Dr. Knower (who made an
+investment in it, and was then a resident of Albany), which sailed
+on the ship <i>Tarolinton</i> from the port of New York, on the
+13th of January, 1849. The doctor, the following spring, shipped
+from Albany, twelve houses around Cape Horn, the freight on which
+was $5,000, he going by the way of the Isthmus, arriving in San
+Francisco on the 25th of September, 1849. On the steamer going up
+from Panama was Judge Terry, of Louisiana, who killed United States
+Senator Broderick in a duel, and who was years afterward
+assassinated.</p>
+<p>"In these early days there was a contest between Northern and
+Southern pioneers whether California should come in the Union a
+free or a slave State. Broderick, a Democrat from the city of New
+York, represented the Northern sentiment, and was supported by the
+Whigs of the State. Common labor at that time was $16 per day,
+payable in gold. It was more from pride than from any thing to do
+with the moral question of slavery. They did not want to come in
+competition with slave labor. The Northern element predominated,
+and California came in a free State. Its first constitution was
+written by George Washington Sherwood, who was a Democratic member
+of the New York Legislature from Washington county, and copied
+after the constitution of this State.</p>
+<p>"California may be said to be the child of the State of New
+York; her citizens may be said to have been pre-eminent in its
+development and present greatness.</p>
+<p>"Abraham Schell was born in Gallupville, and proposes to be
+buried in the neighboring village of Middleburgh, his wife's native
+place, where he has erected a monument.</p>
+<p>"They say that all Forty-niners who remained in California
+either became millionaires or paupers. It seems that Mr. Schell was
+one of the former. He was an unconditional Union man in the
+rebellion, visiting the hospitals of the wounded soldiers, and
+assisting them by his means, and the erection of this monument to
+his nephew for his services in that war is but in accord with his
+acts of patriotism at that time."</p>
+<p>The above article inspired this undertaking at this time. I
+expected to find my friend on at the dedication of the monument,
+and thought I would have the manuscript ready on his arrival and
+submit it to him, and propose to have him go in partnership with me
+in its publication, and have him revise it with me. He was a man of
+high literary attainments, and an experienced Forty-niner, who
+could have added many important events to it that did not come
+under my observation. He was wealthy, and had the means to bring it
+properly before the public.</p>
+<br>
+<a name="DEATH"></a>
+<h2>DEATH OF A FORMER SCHOHARIAN.</h2>
+<p>Intelligence reaches us of the death of Abraham Schell, at his
+home at Knight's Ferry, California, in the early part of February.
+Mr. Schell was seventy-six years old, and was a native of this
+county, having been born in the town of Wright. At the time of the
+gold excitement in 1849 he was in the mercantile business in
+Albany, but sold out and joining a company of friends journeyed to
+California, where he invested his means to good advantage and
+became highly successful, amassing a large fortune. His vineyards
+and their product have long been celebrated. A man of independent
+thought and fine literary attainments, he was one of the sons of
+Schoharie county, whose enterprise and intellectual culture we may
+take just pride in.</p>
+<p>His remains are deposited in a vault there, to be brought here
+in the spring by his nephew, and interred in their final resting
+place in the cemetery at Middleburgh, where he has a $2,000
+monument erected.</p>
+<p>We learn from Dr. Knower that the proposed monument to his
+nephew at Old Stone Fort will undoubtedly be erected, as it has
+been contracted for, but the full details he will not be posted on
+until the arrival of the nephew in the spring.</p>
+<p>The above will show that death, which plays an important hand in
+the events of human life, intervened; so I have gone on alone and
+submit it to the public, such as it is. I hope and trust it may
+meet the approval of all Californians, more particularly of those
+of the days to which it refers. If they will give their approval,
+it will add to the happiness and gratification of one of their
+compatriots of those early days of the pioneers and founders of the
+State of California. What California has become since, we, at that
+time, had no realization of. Instead of conceiving it an utter
+impossibility of ever building one railroad across the continent,
+we now have five. Instead of conceiving the idea that it would
+never be an agricultural country, it may be said to be the vineyard
+and wine producing country of the world, and it has a greater
+variety of productions than most any other land.</p>
+<p>The city of San Francisco, when I first entered it, had not as
+many good buildings as a common eastern village. Now it has a
+population of nearly four hundred thousand, and edifices that cost
+millions. It has produced more millionaires, from persons that went
+there poor, than any other country before in the history of the
+world, and more money has been donated to science and education by
+those successful pioneers, who were the creators of their own
+fortune in the same time, than all the rest of the world in the
+past forty-five years, since the days of the Forty-niners.</p>
+<p>Lick's institution for the science of astronomy, Leland
+Stanford's twenty millions to the Alto University of Learning, open
+to all students, are illustrations of the above statements.</p>
+<p>The foundation of the fortunes of many bankers and wealthy
+capitalists of the East were made in California in the days of the
+Forty-niners. Mill, the owner of the great building at the corner
+of Broadway and Wall street, the ground on which it stands costing
+a million, who is many times a millionaire, went from Sing Sing, in
+this State, a poor boy in 1849. Armour, the great millionaire
+cattle dealer of Chicago, made his first money there in those days,
+which laid the foundation of his great fortune, and many others I
+can recall to mind too numerous to mention.</p>
+<p>While all did not succeed, as they never do in any human
+enterprise, some got discouraged, others fell by the way and laid
+down and died from disappointment, yet others more than realized
+their most fabulous conception of wealth. I was told when I was a
+boy if I went where the sun set and dug for gold I would find it.
+When I became a man I went three thousand miles in the direction of
+the sun setting and dug and found gold. It is not a dream, for as I
+close this writing I see on my little finger a gold ring made from
+the gold I there dug, which has been there for forty-five years. It
+is so fine that it has been wearing away, and it is not more than
+one-fourth the size it was when I first put it on, and time is
+likewise wearing on me, and it will probably last as long as I do,
+and we will disappear together, as Shakespeare says, "besmeared
+with sluttish time."</p>
+<p>THE END.</p>
+<hr style="width: 65%;">
+<a name="APPENDIX"></a>
+<h2>APPENDIX.</h2>
+<p>It was the brains and statesmanship of Wm. L. Marcy, when he was
+secretary of war under President Polk, that inaugurated and
+generaled the movements that resulted in our securing possession of
+California&mdash;by his expeditions, sent by sea and by land, of
+regular forces, followed by the volunteer regiment of one thousand
+men, under the command of Col. Jonathan Stevenson, as the following
+able State paper indicates:</p>
+<p>[Confidential.]</p>
+<center><img src="./images/illus192a.png" height="450" width="361"
+alt=" W.L. MARCY."></center>
+<p>WAR DEPARTMENT, WASHINGTON, <i>June</i> 3, 1846.</p>
+<p>SIR.&mdash;I herewith send you a copy of my letter to the
+governor of Missouri for an additional force of one thousand
+mounted men. The object of thus adding to the force under your
+command is not, as you will perceive, fully set forth in that
+letter, for the reason that it is deemed prudent that it should
+not, at this time, become a matter of public notoriety; but to you
+it is proper and necessary that it should be stated.</p>
+<p>It has been decided by the president to be of the greatest
+importance in the pending war with Mexico to take the earliest
+possession of Upper California. An expedition with that view is
+hereby ordered, and you are designated to command it. To enable you
+to be in sufficient force to conduct it successfully this
+additional force of a thousand mounted men has been provided, to
+follow you in the direction of Santa Fe, to be under your orders or
+the officer you may leave in command at Santa Fe.</p>
+<p>It cannot be determined how far this additional force will be
+behind that designated for the Santa Fe expedition, but it will not
+probably be more than a few weeks. When you arrive at Santa Fe with
+the force already called, and shall have taken possession of it,
+you may find yourself in a condition to garrison it with a small
+part of your command (as the additional force will soon be at that
+place), and with the remainder, press forward to California. In
+that case you will make such arrangements as to being followed by
+the reinforcements before mentioned, as in your judgment may be
+deemed safe and prudent. I need not say to you that in case you
+conquer Santa Fe (and with it will be included the department of
+the State of New Mexico), it will be important to provide for
+retaining safe possession of it. Should you deem it prudent to have
+still more troops for the accomplishment of the object herein
+designated, you will lose no time in communicating that opinion on
+that point, and all others connected with the enterprise, to this
+department. Indeed you are hereby authorized to make a direct
+requisition for it upon the governor of Missouri.</p>
+<p>It is known that a large body of Mormon emigrants are en route
+to California for the purpose of settling in that country. You are
+desired to use all proper means to have a good understanding with
+them, to the end that the United States may have their co-operation
+in taking possession of and holding that country. It has been
+suggested here that many of these Mormons would willingly enter
+into the service of the United States and aid us in our expedition
+against California. You are hereby authorized to muster into
+service such as can be induced to volunteer; not, however, to a
+number exceeding one-third of your entire force. Should they enter
+the service they will be paid as other volunteers, and you can
+allow them to designate, so far as it can be properly done, the
+persons to act as officers thereof. It is understood that a
+considerable number of American citizens are now settled on the
+Sacramento river, near Sutter's establishment, called "Nueva
+Helvetia," who are well disposed toward the United States. Should
+you, on your arrival in the country, find this to be the true state
+of things there, you are authorized to organize and receive into
+the service of the United States such portion of these citizens as
+you may think useful to aid you to hold the possession of the
+country. You will in that case allow them, so far as you shall
+judge proper, to select their own officers. A large discretionary
+power is invested in you in regard to these matters, as well as to
+all others, in relation to the expedition confided to your
+command.</p>
+<p>The choice of routes by which you will enter California will be
+left to your better knowledge and ampler means of getting accurate
+information. We are assured that a southern route (called the
+Caravan route, by which the wild horses are brought from that
+country into New Mexico) is practicable, and it is suggested as not
+improbable that it can be passed over in the winter months, or at
+least late in autumn. It is hoped that this information may prove
+to be correct.</p>
+<p>In regard to routes; the practicability of procuring needful
+supplies for men and animals, and transporting baggage is a point
+to be well considered. Should the president be disappointed in his
+cherished hope that you will be able to reach the interior of Upper
+California before winter, you are then desired to make the best
+arrangement you can for sustaining your forces during the winter,
+and for an early movement in the spring. Though it is very
+desirable that the expedition should reach California this season
+(and the president does not doubt you will make every possible
+effort to accomplish this object), yet if, in your judgment, it
+cannot be undertaken with a reasonable assurance of success, you
+will defer it, as above suggested, until spring. You are left
+unembarrassed by any specific directions in the matter.</p>
+<p>It is expected that the naval forces of the United States which
+are now, or will soon be in the Pacific, will be in possession of
+all the towns on the seacoast, and will co-operate with you in the
+conquest of California. Arms, ordnance, munitions of war, and
+provisions to be used in that country, will be sent by sea to our
+squadron in the Pacific for the use of the land forces.</p>
+<p>Should you conquer and take possession of New Mexico and Upper
+California, or considerable places in either, you will establish
+temporary civil government therein, abolishing all arbitrary
+restrictions that may exist, so far as it may be done with
+safety.</p>
+<p>In performing this duty, it would be wise and prudent to
+continue in their employment all such of the existing officers as
+are known to be friendly to the United States, and will take the
+oath of allegiance to them. The duties of the custom-house ought,
+at once, to be reduced to such a rate as may be barely sufficient
+to maintain the necessary officers without yielding any revenue to
+the government. You may assure the people of these provinces that
+it is the wish and design of the United States to provide for them
+a free government with the least possible delay, similar to that
+which exists in our territories. They will then be called on to
+exercise the rights of freemen in electing their own
+representatives to the territorial legislature. It is foreseen that
+what relates to the civil government will be a difficult and
+unpleasant part of your duty, and much must necessarily be left to
+your own discretion. In your whole conduct you will act in such a
+manner as best to conciliate the inhabitants and render them
+friendly to the United States.</p>
+<p>It is desirable that the usual trade between the citizens of the
+United States and the Mexican provinces should be continued, as far
+as practicable, under the changed condition of things between the
+two countries. In consequence of extending your expedition into
+California it may be proper that you should increase your supply
+for goods to be distributed as presents to the Indians. The United
+States superintendent of Indian affairs at St. Louis will aid you
+in procuring these goods. You will be furnished with a proclamation
+in the Spanish language, to be issued by you and circulated among
+the Mexican people on your entering into or approaching their
+country. You will use your utmost endeavors to have the pledges and
+promises therein contained carried out to the utmost extent.</p>
+<p>I am directed by the president to say that the rank of brevet
+brigadier-general will be conferred on you as soon as you commence
+your movement toward California, and sent round to you by sea or
+over the country, or to the care of the commandant of our squadron
+in the Pacific. In that way cannon, arms, ammunition and supplies
+for the land forces will be sent to you.</p>
+<p>Very respectfully, your obedient servant,</p>
+<p>W.L. MARCY,</p>
+<p><i>Secretary of War</i>.</p>
+<p>COLONEL S.N. KEARNEY, <i>Fort Leavenworth, Missouri.</i></p>
+<br>
+<br>
+<hr class="full" noshade>
+<br>
+<br>
+<div>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 12518 ***</div>
+</body>
+</html>
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