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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/1236-0.txt b/1236-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..3d77feb --- /dev/null +++ b/1236-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,10240 @@ +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 1236 *** + +FIRST ACROSS THE CONTINENT + +The Story of The Exploring Expedition of Lewis and Clark in 1804-5-6 + +By Noah Brooks + + + + +Chapter I -- A Great Transaction in Land + +The people of the young Republic of the United States were greatly +astonished, in the summer of 1803, to learn that Napoleon Bonaparte, +then First Consul of France, had sold to us the vast tract of land known +as the country of Louisiana. The details of this purchase were arranged +in Paris (on the part of the United States) by Robert R. Livingston and +James Monroe. The French government was represented by Barbe-Marbois, +Minister of the Public Treasury. + +The price to be paid for this vast domain was fifteen million dollars. +The area of the country ceded was reckoned to be more than one million +square miles, greater than the total area of the United States, as the +Republic then existed. Roughly described, the territory comprised all +that part of the continent west of the Mississippi River, bounded on the +north by the British possessions and on the west and south by dominions +of Spain. This included the region in which now lie the States of +Louisiana, Arkansas, Missouri, Kansas, parts of Colorado, Minnesota, the +States of Iowa, Nebraska, South Dakota, North Dakota, Wyoming, a part +of Idaho, all of Montana and Territory of Oklahoma. At that time, the +entire population of the region, exclusive of the Indian tribes that +roamed over its trackless spaces, was barely ninety thousand persons, +of whom forty thousand were negro slaves. The civilized inhabitants +were principally French, or descendants of French, with a few Spanish, +Germans, English, and Americans. + +The purchase of this tremendous slice of territory could not be complete +without an approval of the bargain by the United States Senate. Great +opposition to this was immediately excited by people in various parts +of the Union, especially in New England, where there was a very bitter +feeling against the prime mover in this business,--Thomas Jefferson, +then President of the United States. The scheme was ridiculed by persons +who insisted that the region was not only wild and unexplored, but +uninhabitable and worthless. They derided “The Jefferson Purchase,” as +they called it, as a useless piece of extravagance and folly; and, in +addition to its being a foolish bargain, it was urged that President +Jefferson had no right, under the constitution of the United States, to +add any territory to the area of the Republic. + +Nevertheless, a majority of the people were in favor of the purchase, +and the bargain was duly approved by the United States Senate; that +body, July 31, 1803, just three months after the execution of the treaty +of cession, formally ratified the important agreement between the two +governments. The dominion of the United States was now extended across +the entire continent of North America, reaching from the Atlantic to the +Pacific. The Territory of Oregon was already ours. + +This momentous transfer took place one hundred years ago, when almost +nothing was known of the region so summarily handed from the government +of France to the government of the American Republic. Few white men had +ever traversed those trackless plains, or scaled the frowning ranges of +mountains that barred the way across the continent. There were living in +the fastnesses of the mysterious interior of the Louisiana Purchase many +tribes of Indians who had never looked in the face of the white man. + +Nor was the Pacific shore of the country any better known to civilized +man than was the region lying between that coast and the Big Muddy, or +Missouri River. Spanish voyagers, in 1602, had sailed as far north as +the harbors of San Diego and Monterey, in what is now California; +and other explorers, of the same nationality, in 1775, extended their +discoveries as far north as the fifty-eighth degree of latitude. Famous +Captain Cook, the great navigator of the Pacific seas, in 1778, reached +and entered Nootka Sound, and, leaving numerous harbors and bays +unexplored, he pressed on and visited the shores of Alaska, then called +Unalaska, and traced the coast as far north as Icy Cape. Cold weather +drove him westward across the Pacific, and he spent the next winter at +Owyhee, where, in February of the following year, he was killed by the +natives. + +All these explorers were looking for chances for fur-trading, which was +at that time the chief industry of the Pacific coast. Curiously enough, +they all passed by the mouth of the Columbia without observing that +there was the entrance to one of the finest rivers on the American +continent. + +Indeed, Captain Vancouver, a British explorer, who has left his name +on the most important island of the North Pacific coast, baffled by the +deceptive appearances of the two capes that guard the way to a noble +stream (Cape Disappointment and Cape Deception), passed them without a +thought. But Captain Gray, sailing the good ship “Columbia,” of Boston, +who coasted those shores for more than two years, fully convinced that a +strong current which he observed off those capes came from a river, made +a determined effort; and on the 11th of May, 1792, he discovered and +entered the great river that now bears the name of his ship. At last +the key that was to open the mountain fastnesses of the heart of the +continent had been found. The names of the capes christened by Vancouver +and re-christened by Captain Gray have disappeared from our maps, but +in the words of one of the numerous editors(1) of the narrative of the +exploring expedition of Lewis and Clark: “The name of the good ship +‘Columbia,’ it is not hard to believe, will flow with the waters of the +bold river as long as grass grows or water runs in the valleys of the +Rocky Mountains.” + + + (1) Dr. Archibald McVickar. + + +It appears that the attention of President Jefferson had been early +attracted to the vast, unexplored domain which his wise foresight was +finally to add to the territory of the United States. While he was +living in Paris, as the representative of the United States, in 1785-89, +he made the acquaintance of John Ledyard, of Connecticut, the well-known +explorer, who had then in mind a scheme for the establishment of a +fur-trading post on the western coast of America. Mr. Jefferson proposed +to Ledyard that the most feasible route to the coveted fur-bearing lands +would be through the Russian possessions and downward somewhere near to +the latitude of the then unknown sources of the Missouri River, entering +the United States by that route. This scheme fell through on account of +the obstacles thrown in Ledyard’s way by the Russian Government. A few +years later, in 1792, Jefferson, whose mind was apparently fixed on +carrying out his project, proposed to the American Philosophical Society +of Philadelphia that a subscription should be opened for the purpose of +raising money “to engage some competent person to explore that region in +the opposite direction (from the Pacific coast),--that is, by ascending +the Missouri, crossing the Stony (Rocky) Mountains, and descending the +nearest river to the Pacific.” This was the hint from which originated +the famous expedition of Lewis and Clark. + +But the story-teller should not forget to mention that hardy and +adventurous explorer, Jonathan Carver. This man, the son of a British +officer, set out from Boston, in 1766, to explore the wilderness north +of Albany and lying along the southern shore of the Great Lakes. He was +absent two years and seven months, and in that time he collected a vast +amount of useful and strange information, besides learning the language +of the Indians among whom he lived. He conceived the bold plan of +travelling up a branch of the Missouri (or “Messorie”), till, having +discovered the source of the traditional “Oregon, or River of the West,” + on the western side of the lands that divide the continent, “he would +have sailed down that river to the place where it is said to empty +itself, near the Straits of Anian.” + +By the Straits of Anian, we are to suppose, were meant some part of +Behring’s Straits, separating Asia from the American continent. Carver’s +fertile imagination, stimulated by what he knew of the remote Northwest, +pictured that wild region where, according to a modern poet, “rolls the +Oregon and hears no sound save his own dashing.” But Carver died without +the sight; in his later years, he said of those who should follow his +lead: “While their spirits are elated by their success, perhaps they may +bestow some commendations and blessings on the person who first pointed +out to them the way.” + + + + +Chapter II -- Beginning a Long Journey + +In 1803, availing himself of a plausible pretext to send out an +exploring expedition, President Jefferson asked Congress to appropriate +a small sum of money ($2,500) for the execution of his purpose. At that +time the cession of the Louisiana Territory had not been completed; but +matters were in train to that end, and before the expedition was fairly +started on its long journey across the continent, the Territory was +formally ceded to the United States. + +Meriwether Lewis, a captain in the army, was selected by Jefferson to +lead the expedition. Captain Lewis was a native of Virginia, and at that +time was only twenty-nine years old. He had been Jefferson’s private +secretary for two years and was, of course, familiar with the +President’s plans and expectations as these regarded the wonder-land +which Lewis was to enter. It is pleasant to quote here Mr. Jefferson’s +words concerning Captain Lewis. In a memoir of that distinguished young +officer, written after his death, Jefferson said: “Of courage undaunted; +possessing a firmness and perseverance of purpose which nothing but +impossibilities could divert from its direction; careful as a father of +those committed to his charge, yet steady in the maintenance of +order and discipline; intimate with the Indian character, customs +and principles; habituated to the hunting life; guarded, by exact +observation of the vegetables and animals of his own country, against +losing time in the description of objects already possessed; honest, +disinterested, liberal, of sound understanding, and a fidelity to truth +so scrupulous that whatever he should report would be as certain as if +seen by ourselves--with all these qualifications, as if selected and +implanted by nature in one body for this express purpose, I could have +no hesitation in confiding the enterprise to him.” + +Before we have finished the story of Meriwether Lewis and his +companions, we shall see that this high praise of the youthful commander +was well deserved. + +For a coadjutor and comrade Captain Lewis chose William Clark,(1) also +a native of Virginia, and then about thirty-three years old. Clark, like +Lewis, held a commission in the military service of the United States, +and his appointment as one of the leaders of the expedition with which +his name and that of Lewis will ever be associated, made the two men +equal in rank. Exactly how there could be two captains commanding the +same expedition, both of the same military and actual rank, without jar +or quarrel, we cannot understand; but it is certain that the two young +men got on together harmoniously, and no hint or suspicion of any +serious disagreement between the two captains during their long and +arduous service has come down to us from those distant days. + + + (1) It is a little singular that Captain Clark’s name has + been so persistently misspelled by historians and + biographers. Even in most of the published versions of the + story of the Lewis and Clark expedition, the name of one of + the captains is spelled Clarke. Clark’s own signature, of + which many are in existence, is without the final and + superfluous vowel; and the family name, for generations + past, does not show it. + + +As finally organized, the expedition was made up of the two captains +(Lewis and Clark) and twenty-six men. These were nine young men from +Kentucky, who were used to life on the frontier among Indians; fourteen +soldiers of the United States Army, selected from many who eagerly +volunteered their services; two French voyageurs, or watermen, one of +whom was an interpreter of Indian language, and the other a hunter; and +one black man, a servant of Captain Clark. All these, except the negro +servant, were regularly enlisted as privates in the military service of +the United States during the expedition; and three of them were by the +captains appointed sergeants. In addition to this force, nine voyageurs +and a corporal and six private soldiers were detailed to act as guides +and assistants until the explorers should reach the country of the +Mandan Indians, a region lying around the spot where is now situated +the flourishing city of Bismarck, the capital of North Dakota. It was +expected that if hostile Indians should attack the explorers anywhere +within the limits of the little-known parts through which they were +to make their way, such attacks were more likely to be made below the +Mandan country than elsewhere. + +The duties of the explorers were numerous and important. They were to +explore as thoroughly as possible the country through which they were +to pass; making such observations of latitude and longitude as would be +needed when maps of the region should be prepared by the War Department; +observing the trade, commerce, tribal relations, manners and customs, +language, traditions, and monuments, habits and industrial pursuits, +diseases and laws of the Indian nations with whom they might come in +contact; note the floral, mineral, and animal characteristics of the +country, and, above all, to report whatever might be of interest to +citizens who might thereafter be desirous of opening trade relations +with those wild tribes of which almost nothing was then distinctly +known. + +The list of articles with which the explorers were provided, to aid them +in establishing peaceful relations with the Indians, might amuse traders +of the present day. But in those primitive times, and among peoples +entirely ignorant of the white man’s riches and resources, coats richly +laced with gilt braid, red trousers, medals, flags, knives, colored +handkerchiefs, paints, small looking-glasses, beads and tomahawks were +believed to be so attractive to the simple-minded red man that he would +gladly do much and give much of his own to win such prizes. Of these +fine things there were fourteen large bales and one box. The stores of +the expedition were clothing, working tools, fire-arms, food supplies, +powder, ball, lead for bullets, and flints for the guns then in use, the +old-fashioned flint-lock rifle and musket being still in vogue in our +country; for all of this was at the beginning of the present century. + +As the party was to begin their long journey by ascending the Missouri +River, their means of travel were provided in three boats. The largest, +a keel-boat, fifty-five feet long and drawing three feet of water, +carried a big square sail and twenty-two seats for oarsmen. On board +this craft was a small swivel gun. The other two boats were of that +variety of open craft known as pirogue, a craft shaped like a flat-iron, +square-sterned, flat-bottomed, roomy, of light draft, and usually +provided with four oars and a square sail which could be used when the +wind was aft, and which also served as a tent, or night shelter, on +shore. Two horses, for hunting or other occasional service, were led +along the banks of the river. + +As we have seen, President Jefferson, whose master mind organized and +devised this expedition, had dwelt longingly on the prospect of crossing +the continent from the headwaters of the Missouri to the headwaters of +the then newly-discovered Columbia. The route thus explored was more +difficult than that which was later travelled by the first emigrants +across the continent to California. That route lies up the Platte River, +through what is known as the South Pass of the Rocky Mountains, by Great +Salt Lake and down the valley of the Humboldt into California, crossing +the Sierra Nevada at any one of several points leading into the valley +of the Sacramento. The route, which was opened by the gold-seekers, was +followed by the first railroads built across the continent. The route +that lay so firmly in Jefferson’s mind, and which was followed up with +incredible hardships by the Lewis and Clark expedition, has since been +traversed by two railroads, built after the first transcontinental +rails were laid. If Jefferson had desired to find the shortest and most +feasible route across the continent, he would have pointed to the South +Pass and Utah basin trails. But these would have led the explorers into +California, then and long afterwards a Spanish possession. The entire +line finally traced over the Great Divide lay within the territory of +the United States. + +But it must be remembered that while the expedition was being organized, +the vast Territory of Louisiana was as yet a French possession. Before +the party were brought together and their supplies collected, +the territory passed under the jurisdiction of the United States. +Nevertheless, that jurisdiction was not immediately acknowledged by +the officials who, up to that time, had been the representatives of the +French and Spanish governments. Part of the territory was transferred +from Spain to France and then from France to the United States. It was +intended that the exploring party should pass the winter of 1803-4 in +St. Louis, then a mere village which had been commonly known as Pain +Court. But the Spanish governor of the province had not been officially +told that the country had been transferred to the United States, and, +after the Spanish manner, he forbade the passage of the Americans +through his jurisdiction. In those days communication between frontier +posts and points lying far to the eastward of the Mississippi was very +difficult; it required six weeks to carry the mails between New York, +Philadelphia, and Washington to St. Louis; and this was the reason why +a treaty, ratified in July, was not officially heard of in St. Louis +as late as December of that year. The explorers, shut out of Spanish +territory, recrossed the Mississippi and wintered at the mouth of Wood +River, just above St. Louis, on the eastern side of the great river, in +United States territory. As a matter of record, it may be said here that +the actual transfer of the lower part of the territory--commonly known +as Orleans--took place at New Orleans, December 20, 1803, and the +transfer of the upper part was effected at St. Louis, March 10, 1804, +before the Lewis and Clark expedition had started on its long journey to +the northwestward. + +All over the small area of the United States then existed a deep +interest in the proposed explorations of the course and sources of the +Missouri River. The explorers were about to plunge into vast solitudes +of which white people knew less than we know now about the North Polar +country. Wild and extravagant stories of what was to be seen in those +trackless regions were circulated in the States. For example, it was +said that Lewis and Clark expected to find the mammoth of prehistoric +times still living and wandering in the Upper Missouri region; and it +was commonly reported that somewhere, a thousand miles or so up +the river, was a solid mountain of rock salt, eighty miles long and +forty-five miles wide, destitute of vegetation and glittering in the +sun! These, and other tales like these, were said to be believed and +doted upon by the great Jefferson himself. The Federalists, or “Feds,” + as they were called, who hated Jefferson, pretended to believe that he +had invented some of these foolish yarns, hoping thereby to make his +Louisiana purchase more popular in the Republic. + +In his last letter to Captain Lewis, which was to reach the explorers +before they started, Jefferson said: “The acquisition of the country +through which you are to pass has inspired the country generally with a +great deal of interest in your enterprise. The inquiries are perpetual +as to your progress. The Feds alone still treat it as a philosophism, +and would rejoice at its failure. Their bitterness increases with the +diminution of their numbers and despair of a resurrection. I hope you +will take care of yourself, and be a living witness of their malice and +folly.” Indeed, after the explorers were lost sight of in the wilderness +which they were to traverse, many people in the States declaimed +bitterly against the folly that had sent these unfortunate men to perish +miserably in the fathomless depths of the continent. They no longer +treated it “as a philosophism,” or wild prank, but as a wicked scheme to +risk life and property in a search for the mysteries of the unknown and +unknowable. + +As a striking illustration of this uncertainty of the outcome of the +expedition, which exercised even the mind of Jefferson, it may be said +that in his instructions to Captain Lewis he said: “Our Consuls, Thomas +Hewes, at Batavia in Java, William Buchanan in the isles of France and +Bourbon, and John Elmslie at the Cape of Good Hope, will be able to +supply your necessities by drafts on us.” All this seems strange enough +to the young reader of the present day; but this was said and done one +hundred years ago. + + + + +Chapter III -- From the Lower to the Upper River + +The party finally set sail up the Missouri River on Monday, May 21, +1804, but made only a few miles, owing to head winds. Four days +later they camped near the last white settlement on the Missouri,--La +Charrette, a little village of seven poor houses. Here lived Daniel +Boone, the famous Kentucky backwoodsman, then nearly seventy years old, +but still vigorous, erect, and strong of limb. Here and above this place +the explorers began to meet with unfamiliar Indian tribes and names. For +example, they met two canoes loaded with furs “from the Mahar nation.” + The writer of the Lewis and Clark journal, upon whose notes we rely for +our story, made many slips of this sort. By “Mahars” we must understand +that the Omahas were meant. We shall come across other such instances +in which the strangers mistook the pronunciation of Indian names. For +example, Kansas was by them misspelled as “Canseze” and “Canzan;” and +there appear some thirteen or fourteen different spellings of Sioux, of +which one of the most far-fetched is “Scouex.” + +The explorers were now in a country unknown to them and almost unknown +to any white man. On the thirty-first of May, a messenger came down the +Grand Osage River bringing a letter from a person who wrote that the +Indians, having been notified that the country had been ceded to the +Americans, burned the letter containing the tidings, refusing to believe +the report. The Osage Indians, through whose territory they were now +passing, were among the largest and finest-formed red men of the West. +Their name came from the river along which they warred and hunted, but +their proper title, as they called themselves, was “the Wabashas,” and +from them, in later years, we derive the familiar name of Wabash. A +curious tradition of this people, according to the journal of Lewis and +Clark, is that the founder of the nation was a snail, passing a quiet +existence along the banks of the Osage, till a high flood swept him down +to the Missouri, and left him exposed on the shore. The heat of the sun +at length ripened him into a man; but with the change of his nature +he had not forgotten his native seats on the Osage, towards which he +immediately bent his way. He was, however, soon overtaken by hunger and +fatigue, when happily, the Great Spirit appeared, and, giving him a bow +and arrow, showed him how to kill and cook deer, and cover himself +with the skin. He then proceeded to his original residence; but as he +approached the river he was met by a beaver, who inquired haughtily who +he was, and by what authority he came to disturb his possession. The +Osage answered that the river was his own, for he had once lived on its +borders. As they stood disputing, the daughter of the beaver came, and +having, by her entreaties, reconciled her father to this young stranger, +it was proposed that the Osage should marry the young beaver, and share +with her family the enjoyment of the river. The Osage readily consented, +and from this happy union there soon came the village and the nation of +the Wabasha, or Osages, who have ever since preserved a pious reverence +for their ancestors, abstaining from the chase of the beaver, because in +killing that animal they killed a brother of the Osage. Of late years, +however, since the trade with the whites has rendered beaver-skins more +valuable, the sanctity of these maternal relatives has been visibly +reduced, and the poor animals have lost all the privileges of kindred. + +Game was abundant all along the river as the explorers sailed up the +stream. Their hunters killed numbers of deer, and at the mouth of Big +Good Woman Creek, which empties into the Missouri near the present town +of Franklin, Howard County, three bears were brought into the camp. +Here, too, they began to find salt springs, or “salt licks,” to which +many wild animals resorted for salt, of which they were very fond. +Saline County, Missouri, perpetuates the name given to the region by +Lewis and Clark. Traces of buffalo were also found here, and occasional +wandering traders told them that the Indians had begun to hunt the +buffalo now that the grass had become abundant enough to attract this +big game from regions lying further south. + +By the tenth of June the party had entered the country of the Ayauway +nation. This was an easy way of spelling the word now familiar to us +as “Iowa.” But before that spelling was reached, it was Ayaway, Ayahwa, +Iawai, Iaway, and so on. The remnants of this once powerful tribe now +number scarcely two hundred persons. In Lewis and Clark’s time, they +were a large nation, with several hundred warriors, and were constantly +at war with their neighbors. Game here grew still more abundant, and in +addition to deer and bear the hunters brought in a raccoon. One of these +hunters brought into camp a wild tale of a snake which, he said, “made +a guttural noise like a turkey.” One of the French voyageurs confirmed +this story; but the croaking snake was never found and identified. + +On the twenty-fourth of June the explorers halted to prepare some of the +meat which their hunters brought in. Numerous herds of deer were feeding +on the abundant grass and young willows that grew along the river banks. +The meat, cut in small strips, or ribbons, was dried quickly in the hot +sun. This was called “jirked” meat. Later on the word was corrupted into +“jerked,” and “jerked beef” is not unknown at the present day. The verb +“jerk” is corrupted from the Chilian word, charqui, meaning sun-dried +meat; but it is not easy to explain how the Chilian word got into the +Northwest. + +As the season advanced, the party found many delicious wild fruits, such +as currants, plums, raspberries, wild apples, and vast quantities of +mulberries. Wild turkeys were also found in large numbers, and the party +had evidently entered a land of plenty. Wild geese were abundant, and +numerous tracks of elk were seen. But we may as well say here that the +so-called elk of the Northwest is not the elk of ancient Europe; a more +correct and distinctive name for this animal is wapiti, the name given +the animal by the Indians. The European elk more closely resembles the +American moose. Its antlers are flat, low, and palmated like our moose; +whereas the antlers of the American elk, so-called, are long, high, and +round-shaped with many sharp points or tines. The mouth of the great +Platte River was reached on the twenty-first of July. This famous stream +was then regarded as a sort of boundary line between the known and +unknown regions. As mariners crossing the equator require all their +comrades, who have not been “over the line” to submit to lathering +and shaving, so the Western voyageurs merrily compelled their mates to +submit to similar horse-play. The great river was also the mark above +which explorers entered upon what was called the Upper Missouri. + +The expedition was now advancing into a region inhabited by several +wandering tribes of Indians, chief of which were the Ottoes, Missouris, +and Pawnees. It was determined, therefore, to call a council of some of +the chiefs of these bands and make terms of peace with them. After +some delay, the messengers sent out to them brought in fourteen +representative Indians, to whom the white men made presents of roast +meat, pork, flour, and corn-meal, in return for which their visitors +brought them quantities of delicious watermelons. “Next day, August +3,” says the journal, “the Indians, with their six chiefs, were all +assembled under an awning formed with the mainsail, in presence of all +our party, paraded for the occasion. A speech was then made, announcing +to them the change in the government, our promises of protection, and +advice as to their future conduct. All the six chiefs replied to our +speech, each in his turn, according to rank. They expressed their joy at +the change in the government; their hopes that we would recommend them +to their Great Father (the president), that they might obtain trade and +necessaries: they wanted arms as well for hunting as for defence, and +asked our mediation between them and the Mahas, with whom they are now +at war. We promised to do so, and wished some of them to accompany us to +that nation, which they declined, for fear of being killed by them. We +then proceeded to distribute our presents. The grand chief of the nation +not being of the party, we sent him a flag, a medal, and some ornaments +for clothing. To the six chiefs who were present, we gave a medal of the +second grade to one Ottoe chief and one Missouri chief; a medal of the +third grade to two inferior chiefs of each nation; the customary mode +of recognizing a chief being to place a medal round his neck, which is +considered among his tribe as a proof of his consideration abroad. Each +of these medals was accompanied by a present of paint, garters, and +cloth ornaments of dress; and to this we added a canister of powder, a +bottle of whiskey, and a few presents to the whole, which appeared +to make them perfectly satisfied. The air-gun, too, was fired, and +astonished them greatly. The absent grand chief was an Ottoe, named +Weahrushhah, which, in English, degenerates into Little Thief. The two +principal chieftains present were Shongotongo, or Big Horse, and Wethea, +or Hospitality; also Shosguscan, or White Horse, an Ottoe; the first an +Ottoe, the second a Missouri. The incidents just related induced us to +give to this place the name of the Council Bluffs: the situation of it +is exceedingly favorable for a fort and trading factory, as the soil +is well calculated for bricks, and there is an abundance of wood in the +neighborhood, and the air being pure and healthy.” + +Of course the reader will recognize, in the name given to this place by +Lewis and Clark, the flourishing modern city of Council Bluffs, Iowa. +Nevertheless, as a matter of fact, the council took place on the +Nebraskan or western side of the river, and the meeting-place was at +some distance above the site of the present city of Council Bluffs. + +Above Council Bluffs the explorers found the banks of the river to be +high and bluffy, and on one of the highlands which they passed they saw +the burial-place of Blackbird, one of the great men of the Mahars, or +Omahas, who had died of small-pox. A mound, twelve feet in diameter and +six feet high, had been raised over the grave, and on a tall pole at +the summit the party fixed a flag of red, white, and blue. The place +was regarded as sacred by the Omahas, who kept the dead chieftain well +supplied with provisions. The small-pox had caused great mortality among +the Indians; and a few years before the white men’s visit, when the fell +disease had destroyed four hundred men, with a due proportion of women +and children, the survivors burned their village and fled. + +“They had been a military and powerful people; but when these warriors +saw their strength wasting before a malady which they could not resist, +their frenzy was extreme; they burned their village, and many of them +put to death their wives and children, to save them from so cruel an +affliction, and that all might go together to some better country.” + +In Omaha, or Mahar Creek, the explorers made their first experiment +in dragging the stream for fish. With a drag of willows, loaded with +stones, they succeeded in catching a great variety of fine fish, over +three hundred at one haul, and eight hundred at another. These were +pike, bass, salmon-trout, catfish, buffalo fish, perch, and a species of +shrimp, all of which proved an acceptable addition to their usual flesh +bill-of-fare. + +Desiring to call in some of the surrounding Indian tribes, they here +set fire to the dry prairie grass, that being the customary signal for a +meeting of different bands of roving peoples. In the afternoon of August +18, a party of Ottoes, headed by Little Thief and Big Horse, came in, +with six other chiefs and a French interpreter. The journal says:-- + +“We met them under a shade, and after they had finished a repast with +which we supplied them, we inquired into the origin of the war between +them and the Mahas, which they related with great frankness. It seems +that two of the Missouris went to the Mahas to steal horses, but were +detected and killed; the Ottoes and Missouris thought themselves bound +to avenge their companions, and the whole nations were at last obliged +to share in the dispute. They are also in fear of a war from the +Pawnees, whose village they entered this summer, while the inhabitants +were hunting, and stole their corn. This ingenuous confession did +not make us the less desirous of negotiating a peace for them; but no +Indians have as yet been attracted by our fire. The evening was closed +by a dance; and the next day, the chiefs and warriors being assembled +at ten o’clock, we explained the speech we had already sent from the +Council Bluffs, and renewed our advice. They all replied in turn, and +the presents were then distributed. We exchanged the small medal we had +formerly given to the Big Horse for one of the same size with that of +Little Thief: we also gave a small medal to a third chief, and a kind +of certificate or letter of acknowledgment to five of the warriors +expressive of our favor and their good intentions. One of them, +dissatisfied, returned us the certificate; but the chief, fearful of +our being offended, begged that it might be restored to him; this we +declined, and rebuked them severely for having in view mere traffic +instead of peace with their neighbors. This displeased them at first; +but they at length all petitioned that it should be given to the +warrior, who then came forward and made an apology to us; we then +delivered it to the chief to be given to the most worthy, and he +bestowed it on the same warrior, whose name was Great Blue Eyes. After a +more substantial present of small articles and tobacco, the council was +ended with a dram to the Indians. In the evening we exhibited different +objects of curiosity, and particularly the air-gun, which gave them +great surprise. Those people are almost naked, having no covering except +a sort of breech-cloth round the middle, with a loose blanket or buffalo +robe, painted, thrown over them. The names of these warriors, besides +those already mentioned, were Karkapaha, or Crow’s Head, and Nenasawa, +or Black Cat, Missouris; and Sananona, or Iron Eyes, Neswaunja, or +Big Ox, Stageaunja, or Big Blue Eyes, and Wasashaco, or Brave Man, all +Ottoes.” + + + + +Chapter IV -- Novel Experiences among the Indians + +About this time (the nineteenth and twentieth of August), the explorers +lost by death the only member of their party who did not survive the +journey. Floyd River, which flows into the Upper Missouri, in the +northwest corner of Iowa, still marks the last resting-place of Sergeant +Charles Floyd, who died there of bilious colic and was buried by his +comrades near the mouth of the stream. Near here was a quarry of red +pipestone, dear to the Indian fancy as a mine of material for their +pipes; traces of this deposit still remain. So fond of this red rock +were the Indians that when they went there to get the stuff, even +lifelong and vindictive enemies declared a truce while they gathered the +material, and savage hostile tribes suspended their wars for a time. + +On the north side of the Missouri, at a point in what is now known +as Clay County, South Dakota, Captains Lewis and Clark, with ten men, +turned aside to see a great natural curiosity, known to the Indians as +the Hill of Little Devils. The hill is a singular mound in the midst of +a flat prairie, three hundred yards long, sixty or seventy yards wide, +and about seventy feet high. The top is a smooth level plain. The +journal says:-- + +“The Indians have made it a great article of their superstition: it +is called the Mountain of Little People, or Little Spirits; and they +believe that it is the abode of little devils, in the human form, of +about eighteen inches high, and with remarkably large heads; they are +armed with sharp arrows, with which they are very skilful, and are +always on the watch to kill those who should have the hardihood to +approach their residence. The tradition is, that many have suffered from +these little evil spirits, and, among others, three Maha Indians fell +a sacrifice to them a few years since. This has inspired all the +neighboring nations, Sioux, Mahas, and Ottoes, with such terror, that no +consideration could tempt them to visit the hill. We saw none of these +wicked little spirits, nor any place for them, except some small holes +scattered over the top; we were happy enough to escape their vengeance, +though we remained some time on the mound to enjoy the delightful +prospect of the plain, which spreads itself out till the eye rests upon +the northwest hills at a great distance, and those of the northeast, +still farther off, enlivened by large herds of buffalo feeding at a +distance.” + +The present residents of the region, South Dakota, have preserved the +Indian tradition, and Spirit Mound may be seen on modern maps of that +country. + +Passing on their way up the Missouri, the explorers found several kinds +of delicious wild plums and vast quantities of grapes; and here, too, +they passed the mouth of the Yankton River, now known as the Dakota, +at the mouth of which is the modern city of Yankton, South Dakota. The +Yankton-Sioux Indians, numbering about one thousand people, inhabited +this part of the country, and near here the white men were met by a +large band of these Sioux who had come in at the invitation of Lewis +and Clark. The messengers from the white men reported that they had been +well received by the Indians, who, as a mark of respect, presented their +visitors with “a fat dog, already cooked, of which they partook heartily +and found it well-flavored.” From this time, according to the journal, +the explorers tasted occasionally of roast dog, and later on they +adopted this dish as a regular feature of their bill-of-fare. They do +tell us, however, that they had some difficulty in getting used to so +novel an article of food. + +The Sioux and the white men held a grand council under an oak-tree, +from the top of which was flying the American flag. The head chief was +presented with a gold-laced uniform of the United States artillery, a +cocked hat and red feather. The lesser chiefs were also presented +with suitable gifts of lesser value. Various festivities followed the +conference. Next day another powwow was held at which the head chief, +Weucha, or Shake Hand, said:-- + +“‘I see before me my great father’s two sons. You see me and the rest +of our chiefs and warriors. We are very poor; we have neither powder, +nor ball, nor knives; and our women and children at the village have no +clothes. I wish that, as my brothers have given me a flag and a medal, +they would give something to those poor people, or let them stop and +trade with the first boat which comes up the river. I will bring the +chiefs of the Pawnees and Mahas together, and make peace between them; +but it is better that I should do it than my great father’s sons, for +they will listen to me more readily. I will also take some chiefs to +your country in the spring; but before that time I cannot leave home. I +went formerly to the English, and they gave me a medal and some clothes: +when I went to the Spaniards they gave me a medal, but nothing to keep +it from my skin: but now you give me a medal and clothes. But still +we are poor; and I wish, brothers, you would give us something for our +squaws.’” + +When he sat down, Mahtoree, or White Crane, rose: + +“‘I have listened,’ said he, ‘to what our father’s words were +yesterday; and I am to-day glad to see how you have dressed our old +chief. I am a young man, and do not wish to take much; my fathers have +made me a chief; I had much sense before, but now I think I have more +than ever. What the old chief has declared I will confirm, and do +whatever he and you please; but I wish that you would take pity on us, +for we are very poor.’ + +“Another chief, called Pawnawneahpahbe, then said: + +“‘I am a young man, and know but little; I cannot speak well, but I +have listened to what you have told the old chief, and will do whatever +you agree.’ + +“The same sentiments were then repeated by Aweawechache. + +“We were surprised,” the journal says, “at finding that the first of +these titles means Struck by the Pawnee, and was occasioned by some blow +which the chief had received in battle from one of the Pawnee tribe. +The second is in English Half Man, which seemed a singular name for +a warrior, till it was explained to have its origin, probably, in the +modesty of the chief, who, on being told of his exploits, would say, +‘I am no warrior, I am only half a man.’ The other chiefs spoke very +little; but after they had finished, one of the warriors delivered a +speech, in which he declared he would support them. They promised to +make peace with the Ottoes and Missouris, the only nations with whom +they are at war. All these harangues concluded by describing the +distress of the nation: they begged us to have pity on them; to send +them traders; that they wanted powder and ball; and seemed anxious that +we should supply them with some of their great father’s milk, the name +by which they distinguish ardent spirits. We gave some tobacco to each +of the chiefs, and a certificate to two of the warriors who attended +the chief We prevailed on M. Durion (interpreter) to remain here, and +accompany as many of the Sioux chiefs as he could collect to the seat of +government. We also gave his son a flag, some clothes, and provisions, +with directions to bring about a peace between the surrounding tribes, +and to convey some of their chiefs to see the President. + +“The Indians who have just left us are the Yanktons, a tribe of the +great nation of Sioux. These Yanktons are about two hundred men in +number, and inhabit the Jacques, Des Moines, and Sioux Rivers. In person +they are stout, well proportioned, and have a certain air of dignity and +boldness. In their dress they differ nothing from the other bands of the +nation whom we met afterwards.” + +Of the Sioux let us say here, there are many bands, or subdivisions. +Some writers make eighteen of these principal branches. But the first +importance is given to the Sioux proper, or Dakotas. The name “Sioux” is +one of reproach, given by their enemies, and signifies “snake;” whereas +“Dakota” means “friend” or “ally.” The Lewis and Clark journal says of +the Yankton-Sioux:-- + +“What struck us most was an institution peculiar to them and to the Kite +(Crow) Indians further to the westward, from whom it is said to have +been copied. It is an association of the most active and brave young +men, who are bound to each other by attachment, secured by a vow, never +to retreat before any danger, or give way to their enemies. In war they +go forward without sheltering themselves behind trees, or aiding their +natural valor by any artifice. Their punctilious determination not to +be turned from their course became heroic, or ridiculous, a short time +since, when the Yanktons were crossing the Missouri on the ice. A hole +lay immediately in their course, which might easily have been avoided +by going around. This the foremost of the band disdained to do, but +went straight forward and was lost. The others would have followed his +example, but were forcibly prevented by the rest of the tribe. These +young men sit, camp, and dance together, distinct from the rest of the +nation; they are generally about thirty or thirty-five years old, and +such is the deference paid to courage that their seats in council are +superior to those of the chiefs and their persons more respected. But, +as may be supposed, such indiscreet bravery will soon diminish the +numbers of those who practise it; so that the band is now reduced to +four warriors, who were among our visitors. These were the remains of +twenty-two who composed the society not long ago; but, in a battle with +the Kite (Crow) Indians of the Black Mountains, eighteen of them were +killed, and these four were dragged from the field by their companions.” + +Just above the site of the city of Yankton, and near what is still known +as Bon Homme Island, Captain Clark explored a singular earth formation +in a bend of the river. This had all the appearance of an ancient +fortification, stretching across the bend and furnished with redoubts +and other features of a great fort. In the journal is given a glowing +account of the work and an elaborate map of the same. Modern research, +however, has proved that this strange arrangement of walls and parapets +is only a series of sand ridges formed by the currents of the river and +driftings of sand. Many of these so-called earthworks are situated on +the west bank of the Upper Missouri, in North Dakota and South Dakota. + +A few days later, the party saw a species of animal which they described +as “goats,”--very fleet, with short pronged horns inclining backward, +and with grayish hair, marked with white on the rump. This creature, +however, was the American antelope, then unknown to science, and first +described by Lewis and Clark. While visiting a strange dome-shaped +mountain, “resembling a cupola,” and now known as “the Tower,” the +explorers found the abode of another animal, heretofore unknown to them. +“About four acres of ground,” says the journal, “was covered with small +holes.” The account continues: “These are the residence of a little +animal, called by the French petit chien (little dog), which sit erect +near the mouth, and make a whistling noise, but, when alarmed, take +refuge in their holes. In order to bring them out we poured into one of +the holes five barrels of water without filling it, but we dislodged and +caught the owner. After digging down another of the holes for six feet, +we found, on running a pole into it, that we had not yet dug half-way to +the bottom: we discovered, however, two frogs in the hole, and near it +we killed a dark rattlesnake, which had swallowed a small prairie dog. +We were also informed, though we never witnessed the fact, that a sort +of lizard and a snake live habitually with these animals. The +petit chien are justly named, as they resemble a small dog in some +particulars, although they have also some points of similarity to the +squirrel. The head resembles the squirrel in every respect, except that +the ear is shorter; the tail like that of the ground squirrel; the toe +nails are long, the fur is fine, and the long hair is gray.” + +Great confusion has been caused in the minds of readers on account of +there being another burrowing animal, called by Lewis and Clark “the +burrowing squirrel,” which resembles the petit chien in some respects. +But the little animal described here is now well known as the +prairie-dog,--an unfortunate and misleading name. It is in no sense a +species of dog. The creature commonly weighs about three pounds, and its +note resembles that of a toy-dog. It is a species of marmot; it subsists +on grass roots and other vegetable products; its flesh is delicate and, +when fat, of good flavor. The writer of these lines, when crossing the +great plains, in early times, found the “prairie-dogs” excellent eating, +but difficult to kill; they are expert at diving into their holes at the +slightest signal of danger. + +The following days they saw large herds of buffalo, and the copses of +timber appeared to contain elk and deer, “just below Cedar Island,” + adds the journal, “on a hill to the south, is the backbone of a fish, +forty-five feet long, tapering towards the tail, and in a perfect +state of petrifaction, fragments of which were collected and sent to +Washington.” This was not a fish, but the fossil remains of a reptile of +one of the earliest geological periods. Here, too, the party saw immense +herds of buffalo, thousands in number, some of which they killed for +their meat and skins. They also saw elk, deer, turkeys, grouse, beaver, +and prairie-dogs. The journal bitterly complains of the “moschetoes,” + which were very troublesome. As mosquitoes we now know them. + +Oddly enough, the journal sometimes speaks of “goats” and sometimes of +“antelopes,” and the same animal is described in both instances. Here is +a good story of the fleetness of the beautiful creature:-- + +“Of all the animals we had seen, the antelope seems to possess the most +wonderful fleetness. Shy and timorous, they generally repose only on +the ridges, which command a view of all the approaches of an enemy: +the acuteness of their sight distinguishes the most distant danger; +the delicate sensibility of their smell defeats the precautions of +concealment; and, when alarmed, their rapid career seems more like +the flight of birds than the movements of a quadruped. After many +unsuccessful attempts, Captain Lewis at last, by winding around the +ridges, approached a party of seven, which were on an eminence towards +which the wind was unfortunately blowing. The only male of the party +frequently encircled the summit of the hill, as if to announce any +danger to the females, which formed a group at the top. Although they +did not see Captain Lewis, the smell alarmed them, and they fled when he +was at the distance of two hundred yards: he immediately ran to the +spot where they had been; a ravine concealed them from him; but the next +moment they appeared on a second ridge, at the distance of three miles. +He doubted whether they could be the same; but their number, and the +extreme rapidity with which they continued their course, convinced +him that they must have gone with a speed equal to that of the +most distinguished race-horse. Among our acquisitions to-day were a +mule-deer, a magpie, a common deer, and buffalo: Captain Lewis also +saw a hare, and killed a rattlesnake near the burrows of the barking +squirrels.” + +By “barking squirrels” the reader must understand that the animal better +known as the prairie-dog is meant; and the mule-deer, as the explorers +called it, was not a hybrid, but a deer with very long ears, better +known afterwards as the black-tailed deer. + +At the Big Bend of the Missouri, in the heart of what is now South +Dakota, while camped on a sand-bar, the explorers had a startling +experience. “Shortly after midnight,” says the journal, “the sleepers +were startled by the sergeant on guard crying out that the sand-bar was +sinking, and the alarm was timely given; for scarcely had they got off +with the boats before the bank under which they had been lying fell in; +and by the time the opposite shore was reached, the ground on which they +had been encamped sunk also. A man who was sent to step off the distance +across the head of the bend, made it but two thousand yards, while its +circuit is thirty miles.” + +The next day, three Sioux boys swam the river and told them that two +parties of their nation, one of eighty lodges, and one of sixty lodges, +were camped up the river, waiting to have a palaver with the white +explorers. These were Teton Sioux, and the river named for them still +bears that title. + + + + +Chapter V -- From the Tetons to the Mandans + +“On the morning of September 25th,” says the journal, “we raised a +flagstaff and an awning, under which we assembled, with all the party +parading under arms. The chiefs and warriors, from the camps two miles +up the river, met us, about fifty or sixty in number, and after smoking +we delivered them a speech; but as our Sioux interpreter, M. Durion, had +been left with the Yanktons, we were obliged to make use of a Frenchman +who could not speak fluently, and therefore we curtailed our harangue. +After this we went through the ceremony of acknowledging the chiefs, by +giving to the grand chief a medal, a flag of the United States, a laced +uniform coat, a cocked hat and feather; to the two other chiefs, a +medal and some small presents; and to two warriors of consideration, +certificates. The name of the great chief is Untongasabaw, or +Black Buffalo; the second, Tortohonga, or the Partisan; the third, +Tartongawaka, or Buffalo Medicine; the name of one of the warriors was +Wawzinggo; that of the second, Matocoquepa, or Second Bear. We then +invited the chiefs on board, and showed them the boat, the air-gun, and +such curiosities as we thought might amuse them. In this we succeeded +too well; for, after giving them a quarter of a glass of whiskey, which +they seemed to like very much, and sucked the bottle, it was with much +difficulty that we could get rid of them. They at last accompanied +Captain Clark on shore, in a pirogue with five men; but it seems they +had formed a design to stop us; for no sooner had the party landed than +three of the Indians seized the cable of the pirogue, and one of the +soldiers of the chief put his arms round the mast. The second chief, who +affected intoxication, then said that we should not go on; that they +had not received presents enough from us. Captain Clark told him that +he would not be prevented from going on; that we were not squaws, but +warriors; that we were sent by our great father, who could in a moment +exterminate them. The chief replied that he too had warriors, and was +proceeding to offer personal violence to Captain Clark, who immediately +drew his sword, and made a signal to the boat to prepare for action. The +Indians, who surrounded him, drew their arrows from their quivers, +and were bending their bows, when the swivel in the boat was instantly +pointed towards them, and twelve of our most determined men jumped into +the pirogue and joined Captain Clark. This movement made an impression +on them, for the grand chief ordered the young men away from the +pirogue, and they withdrew and held a short council with the warriors. +Being unwilling to irritate them, Captain Clark then went forward, and +offered his hand to the first and second chiefs, who refused to take it. +He then turned from them and got into the pirogue; but he had not got +more than ten paces, when both the chiefs and two of the warriors waded +in after him, and he brought them on board. We then proceeded on for a +mile, and anchored off a willow island, which, from the circumstances +which had just occurred, we called Bad-humored Island.” + +The policy of firmness and gentleness, which Lewis and Clark always +pursued when treating with the Indians, had its good results at this +time. What might have been a bloody encounter was averted, and next day +the Indians contritely came into camp and asked that their squaws and +children might see the white men and their boats, which would be to them +a novel sight. This was agreed to, and after the expedition had sailed +up the river and had been duly admired by a great crowd of men, women, +and children, the Tetons invited the white men to a dance. The journal +adds:-- + +“Captains Lewis and Clark, who went on shore one after the other, were +met on landing by ten well-dressed young men, who took them up in a robe +highly decorated and carried them to a large council-house, where they +were placed on a dressed buffalo-skin by the side of the grand chief. +The hall or council-room was in the shape of three-quarters of a circle, +covered at the top and sides with skins well dressed and sewed together. +Under this shelter sat about seventy men, forming a circle round the +chief, before whom were placed a Spanish flag and the one we had given +them yesterday. This left a vacant circle of about six feet diameter, +in which the pipe of peace was raised on two forked sticks, about six +or eight inches from the ground, and under it the down of the swan was +scattered. A large fire, in which they were cooking provisions, stood +near, and in the centre about four hundred pounds of buffalo meat as a +present for us. As soon as we were seated, an old man got up, and after +approving what we had done, begged us take pity on their unfortunate +situation. To this we replied with assurances of protection. After he +had ceased, the great chief rose and delivered a harangue to the same +effect; then with great solemnity he took some of the most delicate +parts of the dog which was cooked for the festival, and held it to the +flag by way of sacrifice; this done, he held up the pipe of peace, and +first pointed it toward the heavens, then to the four quarters of the +globe, then to the earth, made a short speech, lighted the pipe, and +presented it to us. We smoked, and he again harangued his people, after +which the repast was served up to us. It consisted of the dog which they +had just been cooking, this being a great dish among the Sioux, and used +on all festivals; to this were added pemitigon, a dish made of buffalo +meat, dried or jerked, and then pounded and mixed raw with grease and +a kind of ground potato, dressed like the preparation of Indian corn +called hominy, to which it is little inferior. Of all these luxuries, +which were placed before us in platters with horn spoons, we took the +pemitigon and the potato, which we found good, but we could as yet +partake but sparingly of the dog.” + +The “pemitigon” mentioned here is better known as pemmican, a sort of +dried meat, which may be eaten as prepared, or pounded fine and cooked +with other articles of food. This festival concluded with a grand dance, +which at midnight wound up the affair. + +As the description of these Tetons, given by Lewis and Clark, will give +the reader a good idea of the manners, customs, and personal appearance +of most of the Sioux nation, we will copy the journal in full. It is as +follows: + +“The tribe which we this day saw are a part of the great Sioux nation, +and are known by the name of the Teton Okandandas: they are about two +hundred men in number, and their chief residence is on both sides of the +Missouri, between the Chayenne and Teton Rivers. In their persons they +are rather ugly and ill-made, their legs and arms being too small, their +cheek-bones high, and their eyes projecting. The females, with the same +character of form, are more handsome; and both sexes appear cheerful and +sprightly; but in our intercourse with them we discovered that they were +cunning and vicious. + +“The men shave the hair off their heads, except a small tuft on the top, +which they suffer to grow, and wear in plaits over the shoulders; to +this they seem much attached, as the loss of it is the usual sacrifice +at the death of near relations. In full dress, the men of consideration +wear a hawk’s feather, or calumet feather worked with porcupine quills, +and fastened to the top of the head, from which it falls back. The face +and body are generally painted with a mixture of grease and coal. Over +the shoulders is a loose robe or mantle of buffalo skin dressed white, +adorned with porcupine quills, loosely fixed, so as to make a jingling +noise when in motion, and painted with various uncouth figures, +unintelligible to us, but to them emblematic of military exploits or +any other incident: the hair of the robe is worn next the skin in fair +weather, but when it rains the hair is put outside, and the robe is +either thrown over the arm or wrapped round the body, all of which it +may cover. Under this, in the winter season, they wear a kind of shirt +resembling ours, made either of skin or cloth, and covering the arms and +body. Round the middle is fixed a girdle of cloth, or procured dressed +elk-skin, about an inch in width, and closely tied to the body; to this +is attached a piece of cloth, or blanket, or skin, about a foot wide, +which passes between the legs, and is tucked under the girdle both +before and behind. From the hip to the ankle is covered by leggins of +dressed antelope skins, with seams at the sides two inches in width, and +ornamented by little tufts of hair, the produce of the scalps they have +made in war, which are scattered down the leg. The winter moccasins +are of dressed buffalo skin, the hair being worn inward, and soled with +thick elk-skin parchment; those for summer are of deer or elk-skin, +dressed without the hair, and with soles of elk-skin. On great +occasions, or whenever they are in full dress, the young men drag after +them the entire skin of a polecat fixed to the heel of the moccasin. +Another skin of the same animal, either tucked into the girdle or +carried in the hand, serves as a pouch for their tobacco, or what the +French traders call bois roule.(1) This is the inner bark of a species +of red willow, which, being dried in the sun or over the fire, is, +rubbed between the hands and broken into small pieces, and used alone or +mixed with tobacco. The pipe is generally of red earth, the stem made of +ash, about three or four feet long, and highly decorated with feathers, +hair, and porcupine-quills. . . . + + + (1) This is bois roule, or “rolled wood,” a poor kind of + tobacco rolled with various kinds of leaves, such as the + sumach and dogwood. The Indian name is kinnikinick. + + +“While on shore to-day we witnessed a quarrel between two squaws, which +appeared to be growing every moment more boisterous, when a man came +forward, at whose approach every one seemed terrified and ran. He took +the squaws and without any ceremony whipped them severely. On inquiring +into the nature of such summary justice, we learned that this man was +an officer well known to this and many other tribes. His duty is to keep +the peace, and the whole interior police of the village is confided to +two or three of these officers, who are named by the chief and remain in +power some days, at least till the chief appoints a successor. They +seem to be a sort of constable or sentinel, since they are always on +the watch to keep tranquillity during the day and guard the camp in the +night. The short duration of the office is compensated by its authority. +His power is supreme, and in the suppression of any riot or disturbance +no resistance to him is suffered; his person is sacred, and if in the +execution of his duty he strikes even a chief of the second class, +he cannot be punished for this salutary insolence. In general he +accompanies the person of the chief, and when ordered to any duty, +however dangerous, it is a point of honor rather to die than to refuse +obedience. Thus, when they attempted to stop us yesterday, the chief +ordered one of these men to take possession of the boat; he immediately +put his arms around the mast, and, as we understood, no force except the +command of the chief would have induced him to release his hold. Like +the other men his body is blackened, but his distinguishing mark is a +collection of two or three raven-skins fixed to the girdle behind the +back in such a way that the tails stick out horizontally from the body. +On his head, too, is a raven-skin split into two parts, and tied so as +to let the beak project from the forehead.” + +When the party of explorers subsequently made ready to leave, signs of +reluctance to have them go were apparent among the Indians. Finally, +several of the chief warriors sat on the rope that held the boat to +the shore. Irritated by this, Captain Lewis got ready to fire upon the +warriors, but, anxious to avoid bloodshed, he gave them more tobacco, +which they wanted, and then said to the chief, “You have told us that +you were a great man, and have influence; now show your influence by +taking the rope from those men, and we will then go on without further +trouble.” This appeal to the chieftain’s pride had the desired effect. +The warriors were compelled to give up the rope, which was delivered on +board, and the party set sail with a fresh breeze from the southeast. + +The explorers were soon out of the country of the Teton Sioux and into +that of the Ricaras, or, as these Indians are more commonly called, the +Rickarees. + +On the first day of October they passed the mouth of a river incorrectly +known as Dog River, as if corrupted from the French word chien. But the +true name is Cheyenne, from the Indians who bear that title. The stream +rises in the region called the Black Mountains by Lewis and Clark, on +account of the great quantity of dark cedar and pine trees that covered +the hills. This locality is now known as the Black Hills, in the midst +of which is the famous mining district of Deadwood. In these mountains, +according to Lewis and Clark, were to be found “great quantities +of goats, white bear, prairie cocks, and a species of animal which +resembled a small elk, with large circular horns.” By the “white bear” + the reader must understand that the grizzly bear is meant. Although this +animal, which was first discovered and described by Lewis and Clark, is +commonly referred to in the earlier pages of the journal as “white,” the +error naturally came from a desire to distinguish it from the black +and the cinnamon-colored bears. Afterwards, the journal refers to this +formidable creature as the grizzly, and again as the grisly. Certainly, +the bear was a grizzled gray; but the name “grisly,” that is to say, +horrible, or frightful, fitted him very well. The Latin name, _ursus +horribilis_ is not unlike one of those of Lewis and Clark’s selection. +The animals with circular curled horns, which the explorers thought +resembled a small elk, are now known as the Rocky Mountain sheep, or +bighorn. They very little resemble sheep, however, except in color, +head, horns, and feet. They are now so scarce as to be almost extinct. +They were among the discoveries of Lewis and Clark. The prairie cock +is known to western sportsmen as “prairie chicken;” it is a species of +grouse. + +It was now early in October, and the weather became very cool. So great +is the elevation of those regions that, although the days might be +oppressively warm, the nights were cold and white frosts were frequent. +Crossing the Rocky Mountains at the South Pass, far south of Lewis +and Clark’s route, emigrants who suffered from intense heat during the +middle of day found water in their pails frozen solid in the morning. + +The Rickarees were very curious and inquisitive regarding the white men. +But the journal adds: “The object which appeared to astonish the Indians +most was Captain Clark’s servant York, a remarkably stout, strong negro. +They had never seen a being of that color, and therefore flocked round +him to examine the extraordinary monster. By way of amusement, he told +them that he had once been a wild animal, and been caught and tamed by +his master; and to convince them, showed them feats of strength which, +added to his looks, made him more terrible than we wished him to be.” + +“On October 10th,” says the journal, “the weather was fine, and as we +were desirous of assembling the whole nation at once, we despatched Mr. +Gravelines (a trader)--who, with Mr. Tabeau, another French trader, had +breakfasted with us--to invite the chiefs of the two upper villages to +a conference. They all assembled at one o’clock, and after the usual +ceremonies we addressed them in the same way in which we had already +spoken to the Ottoes and Sioux. We then made or acknowledged three +chiefs, one for each of the three villages; giving to each a flag, a +medal, a red coat, a cocked hat and feather, also some goods, paint and +tobacco, which they divided among themselves. After this the air-gun was +exhibited, very much to their astonishment, nor were they less surprised +at the color and manner of York. On our side we were equally gratified +at discovering that these Ricaras made use of no spirituous liquors of +any kind, the example of the traders who bring it to them, so far +from tempting, having in fact disgusted them. Supposing that it was as +agreeable to them as to the other Indians, we had at first offered them +whiskey; but they refused it with this sensible remark, that they were +surprised that their father should present to them a liquor which would +make them fools. On another occasion they observed to Mr. Tabeau that no +man could be their friend who tried to lead them into such follies.” + +Presents were exchanged by the Indians and the white men; among the +gifts from the former was a quantity of a large, rich bean, which grows +wild and is collected by mice. The Indians hunt for the mice’s deposits +and cook and eat them. The Rickarees had a grand powwow with the white +chiefs and, after accepting presents, agreed to preserve peace with +all men, red or white. On the thirteenth of the month the explorers +discovered a stream which they named Stone-Idol Creek, on account of two +stones, resembling human figures, which adorn its banks. The creek is +now known as Spring River, and is in Campbell County, South Dakota. +Concerning the stone images the Indians gave this tradition:-- + +“A young man was deeply enamoured with a girl whose parents refused +their consent to the marriage. The youth went out into the fields to +mourn his misfortunes; a sympathy of feeling led the lady to the same +spot, and the faithful dog would not cease to follow his master. After +wandering together and having nothing but grapes to subsist on, they +were at last converted into stone, which, beginning at the feet, +gradually invaded the nobler parts, leaving nothing unchanged but a +bunch of grapes which the female holds in her hand to this day. Whenever +the Ricaras pass these sacred stones, they stop to make some offering +of dress to propitiate these deities. Such is the account given by the +Ricara chief, which we had no mode of examining, except that we found +one part of the story very agreeably confirmed; for on the river near +where the event is said to have occurred we found a greater abundance of +fine grapes than we had yet seen.” + +While at their last camp in the country now known as South Dakota, +October 14, 1804, one of the soldiers, tried by a court-martial for +mutinous conduct, was sentenced to receive seventy-five lashes on the +bare back. The sentence was carried out then and there. The Rickaree +chief, who accompanied the party for a time, was so affected by the +sight that he cried aloud during the whole proceeding. When the reasons +for the punishment were explained to him, he acknowledged the justice of +the sentence, but said he would have punished the offender with +death. His people, he added, never whip even their children at any age +whatever. + +On the eighteenth of October, the party reached Cannonball River, which +rises in the Black Hills and empties in the Missouri in Morton County, +North Dakota. Its name is derived from the perfectly round, smooth, +black stones that line its bed and shores. Here they saw great numbers +of antelope and herds of buffalo, and of elk. They killed six fallow +deer; and next day they counted fifty-two herds of buffalo and three +herds of elk at one view; they also observed deer, wolves, and pelicans +in large numbers. + +The ledges in the bluffs along the river often held nests of the calumet +bird, or golden eagle. These nests, which are apparently resorted to, +year after year, by the same pair of birds, are usually out of reach, +except by means of ropes by which the hunters are let down from the +cliffs overhead. The tail-feathers of the bird are twelve in number, +about a foot long, and are pure white except at the tip, which is +jet-black. So highly prized are these by the Indians that they have been +known to exchange a good horse for two feathers. + +The party saw here a great many elk, deer, antelope, and buffalo, and +these last were dogged along their way by wolves who follow them to feed +upon those that die by accident, or are too weak to keep up with the +herd. Sometimes the wolves would pounce upon a calf, too young and +feeble to trot with the other buffalo; and although the mother made an +effort to save her calf, the creature was left to the hungry wolves, the +herd moving along without delay. + +On the twenty-first of October, the explorers reached a creek to which +the Indians gave the name of Chisshetaw, now known as Heart River, +which, rising in Stark County, North Dakota, and running circuitously +through Morton County, empties into the Missouri opposite the city of +Bismarck. At this point the Northern Pacific Railway now crosses the +Missouri; and here, where is built the capital of North Dakota, began, +in those days, a series of Mandan villages, with the people of which +the explorers were to become tolerably well acquainted; for it had been +decided that the increasing cold of the weather would compel them to +winter in this region. But they were as yet uncertain as to the exact +locality at which they would build their camp of winter. Here they met +one of the grand chiefs of the Mandans, who was on a hunting excursion +with his braves. This chief greeted with much ceremony the Rickaree +chief who accompanied the exploring party. The Mandans and Rickarees +were ancient enemies, but, following the peaceful councils of the white +men, the chiefs professed amity and smoked together the pipe of peace. +A son of the Mandan chief was observed to have lost both of his little +fingers, and when the strangers asked how this happened, they were told +that the fingers had been cut off (according to the Mandan custom) to +show the grief of the young man at the loss of some of his relations. + + + + +Chapter VI -- Winter among the Mandans + +Before finally selecting the spot on which to build their winter +quarters, Lewis and Clark held councils with the chiefs of the tribes +who were to be their neighbors during the cold season. These were +Mandans, Annahaways, and Minnetarees, tribes living peacefully in the +same region of country. The principal Mandan chief was Black Cat; White +Buffalo Robe Unfolded represented the Annahaways, and the Minnetaree +chief was Black Moccasin. This last-named chief could not come to the +council, but was represented by Caltahcota, or Cherry on a Bush. The +palaver being over, presents were distributed. The account says:-- + +“One chief of each town was acknowledged by a gift of a flag, a medal +with the likeness of the President of the United States, a uniform coat, +hat and feather. To the second chiefs we gave a medal representing some +domestic animals and a loom for weaving; to the third chiefs, medals +with the impressions of a farmer sowing grain. A variety of other +presents were distributed, but none seemed to give them more +satisfaction than an iron corn-mill which we gave to the Mandans. . . . + +“In the evening the prairie took fire, either by accident or design, and +burned with great fury, the whole plain being enveloped in flames. +So rapid was its progress that a man and a woman were burned to death +before they could reach a place of safety; another man, with his wife +and child, were much burned, and several other persons narrowly escaped +destruction. Among the rest, a boy of the half white breed escaped +unhurt in the midst of the flames; his safety was ascribed to the great +medicine spirit, who had preserved him on account of his being white. +But a much more natural cause was the presence of mind of his mother, +who, seeing no hopes of carrying off her son, threw him on the ground, +and, covering him with the fresh hide of a buffalo, escaped herself from +the flames. As soon as the fire had passed, she returned and found him +untouched, the skin having prevented the flame from reaching the grass +on which he lay.” + +Next day, says the journal,-- + +“We were visited by two persons from the lower village: one, the Big +White, the chief of the village; the other, the Chayenne, called the Big +Man: they had been hunting, and did not return yesterday early enough to +attend the council. At their request we repeated part of our speech of +yesterday, and put the medal round the neck of the chief. Captain +Clark took a pirogue and went up the river in search of a good +wintering-place, and returned after going seven miles to the lower point +of an island on the north side, about one mile in length. He found the +banks on the north side high, with coal occasionally, and the country +fine on all sides; but the want of wood, and the scarcity of game up the +river, induced us to decide on fixing ourselves lower down during the +winter. In the evening our men danced among themselves, to the great +amusement of the Indians.” + +It may be said here that the incident of a life saved from fire by a +raw-hide, originally related by Lewis and Clark, is the foundation of +a great many similar stories of adventures among the Indians. Usually, +however, it is a wise and well-seasoned white trapper who saves his life +by this device. + +Having found a good site for their winter camp, the explorers now built +a number of huts, which they called Fort Mandan. The place was on the +north bank of the Missouri River, in what is now McLean County, North +Dakota, about sixteen hundred miles up the river from St. Louis, and +seven or eight miles below the mouth of Big Knife River. On the opposite +bank, years later, the United States built a military post known as Fort +Clark, which may be found on some of the present-day maps. The huts were +built of logs, and were arranged in two rows, four rooms in each hut, +the whole number being placed in the form of an angle, with a stockade, +or picket, across the two outer ends of the angle, in which was a gate, +kept locked at night. The roofs of the huts slanted upward from the +inner side of the rows, making the outer side of each hut eighteen feet +high; and the lofts of these were made warm and comfortable with dry +grass mixed with clay, Here they were continually visited during the +winter by Indians from all the region around. Here, too, they secured +the services of an interpreter, one Chaboneau, who continued with them +to the end. This man’s wife, Sacajawea, whose Indian name was translated +“Bird Woman,” had been captured from the Snake Indians and sold to +Chaboneau, who married her. She was “a good creature, of a mild and +gentle disposition, greatly attached to the whites.” In the expedition +she proved herself more valuable to the explorers than her husband, and +Lewis and Clark always speak of her in terms of respect and admiration. + +It should not be understood that all the interpreters employed by white +men on such expeditions wholly knew the spoken language of the tribes +among whom they travelled. To some extent they relied upon the universal +language of signs to make themselves understood, and this method of +talking is known to all sorts and kinds of Indians. Thus, two fingers of +the right hand placed astraddle the wrist of the left hand signifies a +man on horseback; and the number of men on horseback is quickly added by +holding up the requisite number of fingers. Sleep is described by gently +inclining the head on the hand, and the number of “sleeps,” or nights, +is indicated by the fingers. Killed, or dead, is described by closed +eyes and a sudden fall of the head on the talker’s chest; and so on, an +easily understood gesture, with a few Indian words, being sufficient to +tell a long story very clearly. + +Lewis and Clark discovered here a species of ermine before unknown +to science. They called it “a weasel, perfectly white except at the +extremity of the tail, which was black.” This animal, highly prized on +account of its pretty fur, was not scientifically described until as +late as 1829. It is a species of stoat. + +The wars of some of the Indian tribes gave Lewis and Clark much trouble +and uneasiness. The Sioux were at war with the Minnetarees (Gros +Ventres, or Big Bellies); and the Assiniboins, who lived further to the +north, continually harassed the Sioux and the Mandans, treating these as +the latter did the Rickarees. The white chiefs had their hands full +all winter while trying to preserve peace among these quarrelsome and +thieving tribes, their favorite game being to steal each other’s horses. +The Indian method of caring for their horses in the cold winter was +to let them shift for themselves during the day, and to take them into +their own lodges at night where they were fed with the juicy, brittle +twigs of the cottonwood tree. With this spare fodder the animals thrive +and keep their coats fine and glossy. + +Late in November, a collision between the Sioux and the Mandans became +almost certain, in consequence of the Sioux having attacked a small +hunting party of the Mandans, killing one, wounding two, and capturing +nine horses. Captain Clark mustered and armed twenty-four of his men, +crossed over into the Mandan village and offered to lead the Indians +against their enemies. The offer was declined on account of the deep +snows which prevented a march; but the incident made friends for white +men, and the tidings of it had a wholesome effect on the other tribes. + +“The whole religion of the Mandans,” like that of many other savage +tribes, says the journal, “consists in the belief of one Great Spirit +presiding over their destinies. This Being must be in the nature of a +good genius, since it is associated with the healing art, and ‘great +spirit’ is synonymous with ‘great medicine,’ a name applied to +everything which they do not comprehend. Each individual selects for +himself the particular object of his devotion, which is termed his +medicine, and is either some invisible being, or more commonly some +animal, which thenceforward becomes his protector or his intercessor +with the Great Spirit, to propitiate whom every attention is lavished +and every personal consideration is sacrificed. ‘I was lately owner of +seventeen horses,’ said a Mandan to us one day, ‘but I have offered them +all up to my medicine and am now poor.’ He had in reality taken all his +wealth, his horses, into the plain, and, turning them loose, committed +them to the care of his medicine and abandoned them forever. The horses, +less religious, took care of themselves, and the pious votary travelled +home on foot.” + +To this day, all the Northwest Indians speak of anything that is highly +useful or influential as “great medicine.” + +One cold December day, a Mandan chief invited the explorers to join them +in a grand buffalo hunt. The journal adds:-- + +“Captain Clark with fifteen men went out and found the Indians engaged +in killing buffalo. The hunters, mounted on horseback and armed with +bows and arrows, encircle the herd and gradually drive them into a plain +or an open place fit for the movements of horse; they then ride in among +them, and singling out a buffalo, a female being preferred, go as close +as possible and wound her with arrows till they think they have +given the mortal stroke; when they pursue another, till the quiver is +exhausted. If, which rarely happens, the wounded buffalo attacks the +hunter, he evades his blow by the agility of his horse, which is trained +for the combat with great dexterity. When they have killed the requisite +number they collect their game, and the squaws and attendants come up +from the rear and skin and dress the animals. Captain Clark killed ten +buffalo, of which five only were brought to the fort; the rest, which +could not be conveyed home, being seized by the Indians, among whom the +custom is that whenever a buffalo is found dead without an arrow or +any particular mark, he is the property of the finder; so that often a +hunter secures scarcely any of the game he kills, if the arrow happens +to fall off.” + +The weather now became excessively cold, the mercury often going +thirty-two degrees below zero. Notwithstanding this, however, the +Indians kept up their outdoor sports, one favorite game of which +resembled billiards. But instead of a table, the players had an open +flooring, about fifty yards long, and the balls were rings of stone, +shot along the flooring by means of sticks like billiard-cues. The white +men had their sports, and they forbade the Indians to visit them on +Christmas Day, as this was one of their “great medicine days.” The +American flag was hoisted on the fort and saluted with a volley of +musketry. The men danced among themselves; their best provisions +were brought out and “the day passed,” says the journal, “in great +festivity.” + +The party also celebrated New Year’s Day by similar festivities. Sixteen +of the men were given leave to go up to the first Mandan village with +their musical instruments, where they delighted the whole tribe with +their dances, one of the French voyageurs being especially applauded +when he danced on his hands with his head downwards. The dancers and +musicians were presented with several buffalo-robes and a large quantity +of Indian corn. The cold grew more intense, and on the tenth of the +month the mercury stood at forty degrees below zero. Some of the men +were badly frost-bitten, and a young Indian, about thirteen years old, +who had been lost in the snows, came into the fort. The journal says:-- + +“His father, who came last night to inquire after him very anxiously, +had sent him in the afternoon to the fort; he was overtaken by the +night, and was obliged to sleep on the snow with no covering except a +pair of antelope-skin moccasins and leggins, and a buffalo-robe. His +feet being frozen, we put them into cold water, and gave him every +attention in our power. About the same time an Indian who had also been +missing returned to the fort. Although his dress was very thin, and he +had slept on the snow without a fire, he had not suffered the slightest +inconvenience. We have indeed observed that these Indians support the +rigors of the season in a way which we had hitherto thought impossible. +A more pleasing reflection occurred at seeing the warm interest which +the situation of these two persons had excited in the village. The boy +had been a prisoner, and adopted from charity; yet the distress of the +father proved that he felt for him the tenderest affection. The man was +a person of no distinction, yet the whole village was full of anxiety +for his safety; and, when they came to us, borrowed a sleigh to bring +them home with ease if they had survived, or to carry their bodies if +they had perished. . . . + +“January 13. Nearly one half of the Mandan nation passed down the river +to hunt for several days. In these excursions, men, women, and children, +with their dogs, all leave the village together, and, after discovering +a spot convenient for the game, fix their tents; all the family bear +their part in the labor, and the game is equally divided among the +families of the tribe. When a single hunter returns from the chase with +more than is necessary for his own immediate consumption, the neighbors +are entitled by custom to a share of it: they do not, however, ask for +it, but send a squaw, who, without saying anything, sits down by the +door of the lodge till the master understands the hint, and gives her +gratuitously a part for her family.” + +By the end of January, 1805, the weather had so far moderated that the +explorers thought they might cut their boats from the ice in the river +and prepare to resume their voyage; but the ice being three feet thick, +they made no progress and were obliged to give up the attempt. Their +stock of meat was low, although they had had good success when the cold +was not too severe to prevent them from hunting deer, elk, and buffalo. +The Mandans, who were careless in providing food for future supplies, +also suffered for want of meat, sometimes going for days without flesh +food. Captain Clark and eighteen men went down the river in search of +game. The hunters, after being out nine days, returned and reported that +they had killed forty deer, three buffalo, and sixteen elk. But much of +the game was lean and poor, and the wolves, who devour everything left +out at night, had stolen a quantity of the flesh. Four men, with sleds, +were sent out to bring into camp the meat, which had been secured +against wolves by being stored in pens. These men were attacked by +Sioux, about one hundred in number, who robbed them of their game +and two of their three horses. Captain Lewis, with twenty-four men, +accompanied by some of the Mandans, set out in pursuit of the marauders. +They were unsuccessful, however, but, having found a part of their game +untouched, they brought it back, and this, with other game killed after +their chase of the Sioux, gave them three thousand pounds of meat; they +had killed thirty-six deer, fourteen elk, and one wolf. + +By the latter part of February, the party were able to get their boats +from the ice. These were dragged ashore, and the work of making them +ready for their next voyage was begun. As the ice in the river began to +break up, the Mandans had great sport chasing across the floating cakes +of ice the buffalo who were tempted over by the appearance of green, +growing grass on the other side. The Indians were very expert in their +pursuit of the animals, which finally slipped from their insecure +footing on the drifting ice, and were killed. + +At this point, April 7, 1805, the escorting party, the voyageurs, and +one interpreter, returned down the river in their barge. This party +consisted of thirteen persons, all told, and to them were intrusted +several packages of specimens for President Jefferson, with letters +and official reports. The presents for Mr. Jefferson, according to the +journal, “consisted of a stuffed male and female antelope, with their +skeletons, a weasel, three squirrels from the Rocky Mountains, the +skeleton of a prairie wolf, those of a white and gray hare, a male +and female blaireau, (badger) or burrowing dog of the prairie, with a +skeleton of the female, two burrowing squirrels, a white weasel, and the +skin of the louservia (loup-servier, or lynx), the horns of a mountain +ram, or big-horn, a pair of large elk horns, the horns and tail of a +black-tailed deer, and a variety of skins, such as those of the red fox, +white hare, marten, yellow bear, obtained from the Sioux; also a number +of articles of Indian dress, among which was a buffalo robe representing +a battle fought about eight years since between the Sioux and Ricaras +against the Mandans and Minnetarees, in which the combatants are +represented on horseback. . . . Such sketches, rude and imperfect as +they are, delineate the predominant character of the savage nations. +If they are peaceable and inoffensive, the drawings usually consist of +local scenery and their favorite diversions. If the band are rude and +ferocious, we observe tomahawks, scalping-knives, bows and arrows, and +all the engines of destruction.--A Mandan bow, and quiver of arrows; +also some Ricara tobacco-seed, and an ear of Mandan corn: to these were +added a box of plants, another of insects, and three cases containing a +burrowing squirrel, a prairie hen, and four magpies, all alive.” . . . + +The articles reached Mr. Jefferson safely and were long on view at his +Virginia residence, Monticello. They were subsequently dispersed, and +some found their way to Peale’s Museum, Philadelphia. Dr. Cones, the +zealous editor of the latest and fullest edition of Lewis and Clark’s +narrative, says that some of the specimens of natural history were +probably extant in 1893. + + + + +Chapter VII -- From Fort Mandan to the Yellowstone + +Up to this time, the expedition had passed through regions from which +vague reports had been brought by the few white men who, as hunters and +trappers in pursuit of fur-bearing game, had dared to venture into these +trackless wildernesses. Now they were to launch out into the mysterious +unknown, from which absolutely no tidings had ever been brought by white +men. The dim reports of Indians who had hunted through some parts of the +region were unreliable, and, as they afterwards proved, were often as +absurdly false as if they had been fairy tales. + +Here, too, they parted from some of their comrades who were to return +to “the United States,” as the explorers fondly termed their native +country, although the strange lands through which they were voyaging +were now a part of the American Republic. The despatches sent to +Washington by these men contained the first official report from Lewis +and Clark since their departure from St. Louis, May 16, 1803; and they +were the last word from the explorers until their return in September, +1806. During all that long interval, the adventurers were not heard of +in the States. No wonder that croakers declared that the little party +had been cut off to perish miserably in the pathless woods that cover +the heart of the continent. + +But they set out on the long journey with light hearts. In his journal, +whose spelling and punctuation are not always models for the faithful +imitation of school-boys, Captain Lewis set down this observation:-- + +“Our vessels consisted of six small canoes, and two large perogues. This +little fleet altho’ not quite so respectable as those of Columbus or +Capt. Cook, were still viewed by us with as much pleasure as those +deservedly famed adventurers ever beheld theirs; and I dare say with +quite as much anxiety for their safety and preservation. We were now +about to penetrate a country at least two thousand miles in width, on +which the foot of civilized man had never trodden; the good or evil +it had in store for us was for experiment yet to determine, and these +little vessels contained every article by which we were to expect to +subsist or defend ourselves. However as the state of mind in which we +are, generally gives the colouring to events, when the imagination is +suffered to wander into futurity, the picture which now presented itself +to me was a most pleasing one. Entertaining as I do the most confident +hope of succeeding in a voyage which had formed a darling project of +mine for the last ten years, I could but esteem this moment of our +departure as among the most happy of my life.” + +The barge sent down the river to St. Louis was in command of Corporal +Wharfington; and with him were six private soldiers, two French +voyageurs, Joseph Gravelines (pilot and interpreter), and Brave Raven, a +Ricara (or Arikara) chief who was to be escorted to Washington to visit +the President. The party was also intrusted with sundry gifts for the +President, among them being natural history specimens, living and dead, +and a number of Indian articles which would be objects of curiosity in +Washington. + +The long voyage of the main party began on the 8th of April, 1805, early +passing the mouth of the Big Knife River, one of the five considerable +streams that fall into the Missouri from the westward in this region; +the other streams are the Owl, the Grand, the Cannonball, and the Heart. +The large town of Stanton, Mercer County, North Dakota, is now situated +at the mouth of the Big Knife. The passage of the party up the river was +slow, owing to unfavorable winds; and they observed along the banks +many signs of early convulsions of nature. The earth of the bluffs was +streaked with layers of coal, or carbonized wood, and large quantities +of lava and pumice-stone were strewn around, showing traces of ancient +volcanic action. The journal of April 9 says:-- + +“A great number of brants (snow-geese) pass up the river; some of them +are perfectly white, except the large feathers of the first joint of +the wing, which are black, though in every other characteristic they +resemble common gray brant. We also saw but could not procure an animal +(gopher) that burrows in the ground, and is similar in every respect to +the burrowing-squirrel, except that it is only one-third of its size. +This may be the animal whose works we have often seen in the plains and +prairies; they resemble the labors of the salamander in the sand-hills +of South Carolina and Georgia, and like him the animals rarely come +above ground; they consist of a little hillock of ten or twelve pounds +of loose ground, which would seem to have been reversed from a pot, +though no aperture is seen through which it could have been thrown. On +removing gently the earth, you discover that the soil has been broken +in a circle of about an inch and a half diameter, where the ground is +looser, though still no opening is perceptible. When we stopped for +dinner the squaw (Sacajawea) went out, and after penetrating with a +sharp stick the holes of the mice (gophers), near some drift-wood, +brought to us a quantity of wild artichokes, which the mice collect and +hoard in large numbers. The root is white, of an ovate form, from one to +three inches long, and generally of the size of a man’s finger, and two, +four, and sometimes six roots are attached to a single stalk. Its +flavor as well as the stalk which issues from it resemble those of the +Jerusalem artichoke, except that the latter is much larger.” + +The weather rapidly grew so warm, although this was early in April, +that the men worked half-naked during the day; and they were very much +annoyed by clouds of mosquitoes. They found that the hillsides and +even the banks of the rivers and sand-bars were covered with “a white +substance, which appears in considerable quantities on the surface +of the earth, and tastes like a mixture of common salt with Glauber’s +salts.” “Many of the streams,” the journal adds, “are so strongly +impregnated with this substance that the water has an unpleasant taste +and a purgative effect.” This is nothing more than the so-called alkali +which has since become known all over the farthest West. It abounds in +the regions west of Salt Lake Valley, whitening vast areas like snow and +poisoning the waters so that the traveller often sees the margins of +the brown pools lined with skeletons and bodies of small animals whose +thirst had led them to drink the deadly fluid. Men and animals stiffer +from smaller doses of this stuff, which is largely a sulphate of soda, +and even in small quantities is harmful to the system. + +Here, on the twelfth of April, they were able to determine the exact +course of the Little Missouri, a stream about which almost nothing was +then known. Near here, too, they found the source of the Mouse River, +only a few miles from the Missouri. The river, bending to the north and +then making many eccentric curves, finally empties into Lake Winnipeg, +and so passes into the great chain of northern lakes in British America. +At this point the explorers saw great flocks of the wild Canada goose. +The journal says:-- + +“These geese, we observe, do not build their nests on the ground or in +the sand-bars, but in the tops of the lofty cottonwood trees. We saw +some elk and buffalo to-day, but at too great a distance to obtain +any of them, though a number of the carcasses of the latter animal are +strewed along the shore, having fallen through the ice and been swept +along when the river broke up. More bald eagles are seen on this part of +the Missouri than we have previously met with; the small sparrow-hawk, +common in most parts of the United States, is also found here. Great +quantities of geese are feeding on the prairies, and one flock of white +brant, or geese with black-tipped wings, and some gray brant with them, +pass up the river; from their flight they seem to proceed much further +to the northwest. We killed two antelopes, which were very lean, and +caught last night two beavers.” + +Lewis and Clark were laughed at by some very knowing people who +scouted the idea that wild geese build their nests in trees. But later +travellers have confirmed their story; the wise geese avoid foxes and +other of their four-footed enemies by fixing their homes in the tall +cottonwoods. In other words, they roost high. + +The Assiniboins from the north had lately been on their spring hunting +expeditions through this region,--just above the Little Missouri,--and +game was scarce and shy. The journal, under the date of April 14, +says:-- + +“One of the hunters shot at an otter last evening; a buffalo was killed, +and an elk, both so poor as to be almost unfit for use; two white +(grizzly) bears were also seen, and a muskrat swimming across the river. +The river continues wide and of about the same rapidity as the ordinary +current of the Ohio. The low grounds are wide, the moister parts +containing timber; the upland is extremely broken, without wood, and in +some places seems as if it had slipped down in masses of several acres +in surface. The mineral appearance of salts, coal, and sulphur, with the +burnt hill and pumice-stone, continue, and a bituminous water about +the color of strong lye, with the taste of Glauber’s salts and a slight +tincture of alum. Many geese were feeding in the prairies, and a number +of magpies, which build their nests much like those of the blackbird, in +trees, and composed of small sticks, leaves, and grass, open at the top; +the egg is of a bluish-brown color, freckled with reddish-brown spots. +We also killed a large hooting-owl resembling that of the United States +except that it was more booted and clad with feathers. On the hills +are many aromatic herbs, resembling in taste, smell, and appearance the +sage, hyssop, wormwood, southernwood, juniper, and dwarf cedar; a plant +also about two or three feet high, similar to the camphor in smell and +taste; and another plant of the same size, with a long, narrow, smooth, +soft leaf, of an agreeable smell and flavor, which is a favorite food of +the antelope, whose necks are often perfumed by rubbing against it.” + +What the journalist intended to say here was that at least one of the +aromatic herbs resembled sage, hyssop, wormwood, and southernwood, and +that there were junipers and dwarf cedars. The pungent-smelling herb was +the wild sage, now celebrated in stories of adventure as the sage-brush. +It grows abundantly in the alkali country, and is browsed upon by a +species of grouse known as the sage-hen. Junipers and dwarf cedars also +grow on the hills of the alkali and sage-brush country. The sage belongs +to the Artemisia family of plants. + +Four days later, the journal had this interesting entry: + +“The country to-day presented the usual variety of highlands +interspersed with rich plains. In one of these we observed a species of +pea bearing a yellow flower, which is now in blossom, the leaf and stalk +resembling the common pea. It seldom rises higher than six inches, and +the root is perennial. On the rose-bushes we also saw a quantity of +the hair of a buffalo, which had become perfectly white by exposure and +resembled the wool of the sheep, except that it was much finer and more +soft and silky. A buffalo which we killed yesterday had shed his long +hair, and that which remained was about two inches long, thick, fine, +and would have furnished five pounds of wool, of which we have no doubt +an excellent cloth may be made. Our game to-day was a beaver, a deer, an +elk, and some geese. . . . + +“On the hills we observed considerable quantities of dwarf juniper, +which seldom grows higher than three feet. We killed in the course of +the day an elk, three geese, and a beaver. The beaver on this part of +the Missouri are in greater quantities, larger and fatter, and their fur +is more abundant and of a darker color, than any we have hitherto seen. +Their favorite food seems to be the bark of the cottonwood and willow, +as we have seen no other species of tree that has been touched by them, +and these they gnaw to the ground through a diameter of twenty inches.” + +And on the twenty-first of April the journal says: + +“Last night there was a hard white frost, and this morning the weather +was cold, but clear and pleasant; in the course of the day, however, it +became cloudy and the wind rose. The country is of the same description +as within the few last days. We saw immense quantities of buffalo, +elk, deer, antelopes, geese, and some swans and ducks, out of which we +procured three deer and four buffalo calves, which last are equal in +flavor to the most delicious veal; also two beaver and an otter.” + +As the party advanced to the westward, following the crooked course +of the Missouri, they were very much afflicted with inflamed eyes, +occasioned by the fine, alkaline dust that blew so lightly that it +sometimes floated for miles, like clouds of smoke. The dust even +penetrated the works of one of their watches, although it was protected +by tight, double cases. In these later days, even the double windows of +the railway trains do not keep out this penetrating dust, which makes +one’s skin dry and rough. + +On the twenty-fifth of April, the explorers believed, by the signs which +they observed, that they must be near the great unknown river of which +they had dimly heard as rising in the rocky passes of the Great Divide +and emptying into the Missouri. Captain Lewis accordingly left the +party, with four men, and struck off across the country in search of +the stream. Under the next day’s date the journal reports the return of +Captain Lewis and says:-- + +“On leaving us yesterday he pursued his route along the foot of the +hills, which he descended to the distance of eight miles; from these +the wide plains watered by the Missouri and the Yellowstone spread +themselves before the eye, occasionally varied with the wood of the +banks, enlivened by the irregular windings of the two rivers, and +animated by vast herds of buffalo, deer, elk, and antelope. The +confluence of the two rivers was concealed by the wood, but the +Yellowstone itself was only two miles distant, to the south. He +therefore descended the hills and camped on the bank of the river, +having killed, as he crossed the plain, four buffaloes; the deer alone +are shy and retire to the woods, but the elk, antelope, and buffalo +suffered him to approach them without alarm, and often followed him +quietly for some distance.” + +The famous water-course, first described by Lewis and Clark, was named +by them the Yellow Stone River. Earlier than this, however, the French +voyageurs had called the Upper Missouri the Riviere Jaune, or Yellow +River; but it is certain that the stream, which rises in the Yellowstone +National Park, was discovered and named by Lewis and Clark. One of the +party, Private Joseph Fields, was the first white man who ever ascended +the Yellowstone for any considerable distance. Sent up the river by +Captains Lewis and Clark, he travelled about eight miles, and observed +the currents and sand-bars. Leaving the mouth of the river, the party +went on their course along the Missouri. The journal, under date of +April 27, says:-- + +“From the point of junction a wood occupies the space between the two +rivers, which at the distance of a mile come within two hundred and +fifty yards of each other. There a beautiful low plain commences, +widening as the rivers recede, and extends along each of them for +several miles, rising about half a mile from the Missouri into a plain +twelve feet higher than itself. The low plain is a few inches above high +water mark, and where it joins the higher plain there is a channel of +sixty or seventy yards in width, through which a part of the Missouri, +when at its greatest height, passes into the Yellowstone. . . . + +“The northwest wind rose so high at eleven o’clock that we were obliged +to stop till about four in the afternoon, when we proceeded till dusk. +On the south a beautiful plain separates the two rivers, till at about +six miles there is a piece of low timbered ground, and a little above it +bluffs, where the country rises gradually from the river: the situations +on the north are more high and open. We encamped on that side, the +wind, the sand which it raised, and the rapidity of the current having +prevented our advancing more than eight miles; during the latter part of +the day the river became wider, and crowded with sand-bars. The game +was in such plenty that we killed only what was necessary for our +subsistence. For several days past we have seen great numbers of buffalo +lying dead along the shore, some of them partly devoured by the wolves. +They have either sunk through the ice during the winter, or been drowned +in attempting to cross; or else, after crossing to some high bluff, have +found themselves too much exhausted either to ascend or swim back again, +and perished for want of food: in this situation we found several small +parties of them. There are geese, too, in abundance, and more bald +eagles than we have hitherto observed; the nests of these last being +always accompanied by those of two or three magpies, who are their +inseparable attendants.” + + + + +Chapter VIII -- In the Haunts of Grizzlies and Buffalo + +Game, which had been somewhat scarce after leaving the Yellowstone, +became more plentiful as they passed on to the westward, still +following the winding course of the Missouri. Much of the time, baffling +winds and the crookedness of the stream made sailing impossible, and the +boats were towed by men walking along the banks. + +Even this was sometimes difficult, on account of the rocky ledges that +beset the shores, and sharp stones that lay in the path of the towing +parties. On the twenty-eighth of April, however, having a favorable +wind, the party made twenty-eight miles with their sails, which was +reckoned a good day’s journey. On that day the journal records that game +had again become very abundant, deer of various kinds, elk, buffalo, +antelope, bear, beaver, and geese being numerous. The beaver, it was +found, had wrought much damage by gnawing down trees; some of these, not +less than three feet in diameter had been gnawed clean through by the +beaver. On the following day the journal has this record:-- + +“We proceeded early, with a moderate wind. Captain Lewis, who was on +shore with one hunter, met, about eight o’clock, two white (grizzly) +bears. Of the strength and ferocity of this animal the Indians had given +us dreadful accounts. They never attack him but in parties of six or +eight persons, and even then are often defeated with a loss of one or +more of their party. Having no weapons but bows and arrows, and the bad +guns with which the traders supply them, they are obliged to approach +very near to the bear; as no wound except through the head or heart +is mortal, they frequently fall a sacrifice if they miss their aim. He +rather attacks than avoids a man, and such is the terror which he has +inspired, that the Indians who go in quest of him paint themselves and +perform all the superstitious rites customary when they make war on a +neighboring nation. Hitherto, those bears we had seen did not appear +desirous of encountering us; but although to a skilful rifleman the +danger is very much diminished, yet the white bear is still a terrible +animal. On approaching these two, both Captain Lewis and the hunter +fired, and each wounded a bear. One of them made his escape; the other +turned upon Captain Lewis and pursued him seventy or eighty yards, but +being badly wounded the bear could not run so fast as to prevent him +from reloading his piece, which he again aimed at him, and a third shot +from the hunter brought him to the ground. He was a male, not quite full +grown, and weighed about three hundred pounds. The legs are somewhat +longer than those of the black bear, and the talons and tusks much +larger and longer. Its color is a yellowish-brown; the eyes are small, +black, and piercing; the front of the fore legs near the feet is usually +black, and the fur is finer, thicker, and deeper than that of the black +bear. Add to which, it is a more furious animal, and very remarkable for +the wounds which it will bear without dying.” + +Next day, the hunter killed the largest elk which they had ever seen. It +stood five feet three inches high from hoof to shoulder. Antelopes were +also numerous, but lean, and not very good for food. Of the antelope the +journal says:-- + +“These fleet and quick-sighted animals are generally the victims of +their curiosity. When they first see the hunters, they run with great +velocity; if he lies down on the ground, and lifts up his arm, his hat, +or his foot, they return with a light trot to look at the object, and +sometimes go and return two or three times, till they approach within +reach of the rifle. So, too, they sometimes leave their flock to go +and look at the wolves, which crouch down, and, if the antelope is +frightened at first, repeat the same manoevre, and sometimes relieve +each other, till they decoy it from the party, when they seize it. But, +generally, the wolves take them as they are crossing the rivers; for, +although swift on foot, they are not good swimmers.” + +Later wayfarers across the plains were wont to beguile the antelope by +fastening a bright-colored handkerchief to a ramrod stuck in the ground. +The patient hunter was certain to be rewarded by the antelope coming +within range of his rifle; for, unless scared off by some interference, +the herd, after galloping around and around and much zigzagging, would +certainly seek to gratify their curiosity by gradually circling nearer +and nearer the strange object until a deadly shot or two sent havoc into +their ranks. + +May came on cold and windy, and on the second of the month, the journal +records that snow fell to the depth of an inch, contrasting strangely +with the advanced vegetation. + +“Our game to-day,” proceeds the journal, “were deer, elk, and buffalo: +we also procured three beaver. They were here quite gentle, as they have +not been hunted; but when the hunters are in pursuit, they never leave +their huts during the day. This animal we esteem a great delicacy, +particularly the tail, which, when boiled, resembles in flavor the +fresh tongues and sounds of the codfish, and is generally so large as to +afford a plentiful meal for two men. One of the hunters, in passing near +an old Indian camp, found several yards of scarlet cloth suspended on +the bough of a tree, as a sacrifice to the deity, by the Assiniboins; +the custom of making these offerings being common among that people, as, +indeed, among all the Indians on the Missouri. The air was sharp this +evening; the water froze on the oars as we rowed.” + +The Assiniboin custom of sacrificing to their deity, or “great +medicine,” the article which they most value themselves, is not by any +means peculiar to that tribe, nor to the Indian race. + +An unusual number of porcupines were seen along here, and these +creatures were so free from wildness that they fed on, undisturbed, +while the explorers walked around and among them. The captains named +a bold and beautiful stream, which here entered the Missouri from the +north,--Porcupine River; but modern geography calls the water-course +Poplar River; at the mouth of the river, in Montana, is now the Poplar +River Indian Agency and military post. The waters of this stream, the +explorers found, were clear and transparent,--an exception to all the +streams, which, discharging into the Missouri, give it its name of the +Big Muddy. The journal adds:-- + +“A quarter of a mile beyond this river a creek falls in on the south, +to which, on account of its distance from the mouth of the Missouri, we +gave the name of Two-thousand-mile creek. It is a bold stream with a bed +thirty yards wide. At three and one-half miles above Porcupine River, +we reached some high timber on the north, and camped just above an +old channel of the river, which is now dry. We saw vast quantities of +buffalo, elk, deer,--principally of the long-tailed kind,--antelope, +beaver, geese, ducks, brant, and some swan. The porcupines too are +numerous, and so careless and clumsy that we can approach very near +without disturbing them, as they are feeding on the young willows. +Toward evening we also found for the first time the nest of a goose +among some driftwood, all that we had hitherto seen being on the top of +a broken tree on the forks, invariably from fifteen to twenty or more +feet in height.” + +“Next day,” May 4, says the journal, “we passed some old Indian +hunting-camps, one of which consisted of two large lodges, fortified +with a circular fence twenty or thirty feet in diameter, made of timber +laid horizontally, the beams overlying each other to the height of five +feet, and covered with the trunks and limbs of trees that have drifted +down the river. The lodges themselves are formed by three or more strong +sticks about the size of a man’s leg or arm and twelve feet long, which +are attached at the top by a withe of small willows, and spread out so +as to form at the base a circle of ten to fourteen feet in diameter. +Against these are placed pieces of driftwood and fallen timber, usually +in three ranges, one on the other; the interstices are covered with +leaves, bark, and straw, so as to form a conical figure about ten feet +high, with a small aperture in one side for the door. It is, however, at +best a very imperfect shelter against the inclemencies of the seasons.” + +Wolves were very abundant along the route of the explorers, the +most numerous species being the common kind, now known as the coyote +(pronounced kyote), and named by science the canis latrans. These +animals are cowardly and sly creatures, of an intermediate size between +the fox and dog, very delicately formed, fleet and active. + +“The ears are large, erect, and pointed; the head is long and pointed, +like that of the fox; the tail long and bushy; the hair and fur are of a +pale reddish-brown color, though much coarser than that of the fox; the +eye is of a deep sea-green color, small and piercing; the talons are +rather longer than those of the wolf of the Atlantic States, which +animal, as far as we can perceive, is not to be found on this side of +the Platte. These wolves usually associate in bands of ten or twelve, +and are rarely, if ever, seen alone, not being able, singly, to attack a +deer or antelope. They live and rear their young in burrows, which they +fix near some pass or spot much frequented by game, and sally out in a +body against any animal which they think they can overpower; but on the +slightest alarm retreat to their burrows, making a noise exactly like +that of a small dog. + +“A second species is lower, shorter in the legs, and thicker than the +Atlantic wolf; the color, which is not affected by the seasons, is of +every variety of shade, from a gray or blackish-brown to a cream-colored +white. They do not burrow, nor do they bark, but howl; they frequent the +woods and plains, and skulk along the skirts of the buffalo herds, in +order to attack the weary or wounded.” + +Under date of May 5, the journal has an interesting story of an +encounter with a grizzly bear, which, by way of variety, is here called +“brown,” instead of “white.” It is noticeable that the explorers dwelt +with much minuteness upon the peculiar characteristics of the grizzly; +this is natural enough when we consider that they were the first white +men to form an intimate acquaintance with “Ursus horribilis.” The +account says:-- + +“Captain Clark and one of the hunters met, this evening, the largest +brown bear we have seen. As they fired he did not attempt to attack, +but fled with a most tremendous roar; and such was his extraordinary +tenacity of life, that, although he had five balls passed through his +lungs, and five other wounds, he swam more than half across the river to +a sand-bar, and survived twenty minutes. He weighed between five and six +hundred pounds at least, and measured eight feet seven inches and a half +from the nose to the extremity of the hind feet, five feet ten inches +and a half round the breast, three feet eleven inches round the neck, +one foot eleven inches round the middle of the fore leg, and his claws +five on each foot, were four inches and three-eighths in length. This +animal differs from the common black bear in having his claws much +longer and more blunt; his tail shorter; his hair of a reddish or bay +brown, longer, finer, and more abundant; his liver, lungs, and heart +much larger even in proportion to his size, the heart, particularly, +being equal to that of a large ox; and his maw ten times larger. Besides +fish and flesh, he feeds on roots and every kind of wild fruit.” + +On May 8 the party discovered the largest and most important of the +northern tributaries of the Upper Missouri. The journal thus describes +the stream:-- + +“Its width at the entrance is one hundred and fifty yards; on going +three miles up, Captain Lewis found it to be of the same breadth and +sometimes more; it is deep, gentle, and has a large quantity of water; +its bed is principally of mud; the banks are abrupt, about twelve +feet in height, and formed of a dark, rich loam and blue clay; the +low grounds near it are wide and fertile, and possess a considerable +proportion of cottonwood and willow. It seems to be navigable for boats +and canoes; by this circumstance, joined to its course and quantity of +water, which indicates that it passes through a large extent of +country, we are led to presume that it may approach the Saskaskawan +(Saskatchewan) and afford a communication with that river. The water has +a peculiar whiteness, such as might be produced by a tablespoonful of +milk in a dish of tea, and this circumstance induced us to call it Milk +River.” + +Modern geography shows that the surmise of Captain Lewis was correct. +Some of the tributaries of Milk River (the Indian name of which +signifies “The River that Scolds at all Others”) have their rise near +St. Mary’s River, which is one of the tributaries of the Saskatchewan, +in British America. + +The explorers were surprised to find the bed of a dry river, as deep and +as wide as the Missouri itself, about fifteen miles above Milk River. +Although it had every appearance of a water-course, it did not discharge +a drop of water. Their journal says:-- + +“It passes through a wide valley without timber; the surrounding country +consists of waving low hills, interspersed with some handsome level +plains; the banks are abrupt, and consist of a black or yellow clay, +or of a rich sandy loam; though they do not rise more than six or eight +feet above the bed, they exhibit no appearance of being overflowed; the +bed is entirely composed of a light brown sand, the particles of which, +like those of the Missouri, are extremely fine. Like the dry rivers we +passed before, this seemed to have discharged its waters recently, but +the watermark indicated that its greatest depth had not been more than +two feet. This stream, if it deserve the name, we called Bigdry (Big +Dry) River.” + +And Big Dry it remains on the maps unto this day. In this region the +party recorded this observation:-- + +“The game is now in great quantities, particularly the elk and buffalo, +which last is so gentle that the men are obliged to drive them out +of the way with sticks and stones. The ravages of the beaver are very +apparent; in one place the timber was entirely prostrated for a space of +three acres in front on the river and one in depth, and great part of it +removed, though the trees were in large quantities, and some of them as +thick as the body of a man.” + +Yet so great have been the ravages of man among these gentle creatures, +that elk are now very rarely found in the region, and the buffalo have +almost utterly disappeared from the face of the earth. Just after +the opening of the Northern Pacific Railway, in 1883, a band of sixty +buffaloes were heard of, far to the southward of Bismarck, and a party +was organized to hunt them. The _bold_ hunters afterwards boasted that +they killed every one of this little band of survivors of their race. + +The men were now (in the middle of May) greatly troubled with boils, +abscesses, and inflamed eyes, caused by the poison of the alkali that +covered much of the ground and corrupted the water. Here is an entry in +the journal of May 11:-- + +“About five in the afternoon one of our men (Bratton), who had been +afflicted with boils and suffered to walk on shore, came running to the +boats with loud cries, and every symptom of terror and distress. For +some time after we had taken him on board he was so much out of breath +as to be unable to describe the cause of his anxiety; but he at length +told us that about a mile and a half below he had shot a brown bear, +which immediately turned and was in close pursuit of him; but the bear +being badly wounded could not overtake him. Captain Lewis, with seven +men, immediately went in search of him; having found his track they +followed him by the blood for a mile, found him concealed in some +thick brushwood, and shot him with two balls through the skull. Though +somewhat smaller than that killed a few days ago, he was a monstrous +animal, and a most terrible enemy. Our man had shot him through the +centre of the lungs; yet he had pursued him furiously for half a +mile, then returned more than twice that distance, and with his talons +prepared himself a bed in the earth two feet deep and five feet long; +he was perfectly alive when they found him, which was at least two hours +after he had received the wound. The wonderful power of life which these +animals possess renders them dreadful; their very track in the mud or +sand, which we have sometimes found eleven inches long and seven and +one-fourth wide, exclusive of the talons, is alarming; and we had rather +encounter two Indians than meet a single brown bear. There is no chance +of killing them by a single shot unless the ball goes through the brain, +and this is very difficult on account of two large muscles which cover +the side of the forehead and the sharp projection of the centre of the +frontal bone, which is also thick. + +“Our camp was on the south, at the distance of sixteen miles from that +of last night. The fleece and skin of the bear were a heavy burden for +two men, and the oil amounted to eight gallons.” + +The name of the badly-scared Bratton was bestowed upon a creek which +discharges into the Missouri near the scene of this encounter. Game +continued to be very abundant. On the fourteenth, according to the +journal, the hunters were hunted, to their great discomfiture. The +account says:-- + +“Toward evening the men in the hindmost canoes discovered a large brown +(grizzly) bear lying in the open grounds, about three hundred paces from +the river. Six of them, all good hunters, immediately went to attack +him, and concealing themselves by a small eminence came unperceived +within forty paces of him. Four of the hunters now fired, and each +lodged a ball in his body, two of them directly through the lungs. The +furious animal sprang up and ran open-mouthed upon them. + +“As he came near, the two hunters who had reserved their fire gave him +two wounds, one of which, breaking his shoulder, retarded his motion +for a moment; but before they could reload he was so near that they +were obliged to run to the river, and before they had reached it he +had almost overtaken them. Two jumped into the canoe; the other four +separated, and, concealing themselves in the willows, fired as fast +as they could reload. They struck him several times, but, instead of +weakening the monster, each shot seemed only to direct him towards the +hunters, till at last he pursued two of them so closely that they threw +aside their guns and pouches, and jumped down a perpendicular bank of +twenty feet into the river: the bear sprang after them, and was within +a few feet of the hindmost, when one of the hunters on shore shot him +in the head, and finally killed him. They dragged him to the shore, and +found that eight balls had passed through him in different directions. +The bear was old, and the meat tough, so that they took the skin only, +and rejoined us at camp, where we had been as much terrified by an +accident of a different kind. + +“This was the narrow escape of one of our canoes, containing all our +papers, instruments, medicine, and almost every article indispensable +for the success of our enterprise. The canoe being under sail, a sudden +squall of wind struck her obliquely and turned her considerably. The man +at the helm, who was unluckily the worst steersman of the party, became +alarmed, and, instead of putting her before the wind, luffed her up into +it. The wind was so high that it forced the brace of the square-sail +out of the hand of the man who was attending it, and instantly upset the +canoe, which would have been turned bottom upward but for the resistance +made by the awning. Such was the confusion on board, and the waves ran +so high, that it was half a minute before she righted, and then nearly +full of water, but by bailing her out she was kept from sinking until +they rowed ashore. Besides the loss of the lives of three men, who, not +being able to swim, would probably have perished, we should have been +deprived of nearly everything necessary for our purposes, at a distance +of between two and three thousand miles from any place where we could +supply the deficiency.” + +Fortunately, there was no great loss from this accident, which was +caused by the clumsiness and timidity of the steersman, Chaboneau. +Captain Lewis’s account of the incident records that the conduct of +Chaboneau’s wife, Sacajawea, was better than that of her cowardly +husband. He says:-- + +“The Indian woman, to whom I ascribe equal fortitude and resolution with +any person on board at the time of the accident, caught and preserved +most of the light articles which were washed overboard.” + + + + +Chapter IX -- In the Solitudes of the Upper Missouri + +Under date of May 17, the journal of the party has the following +interesting entries:-- + +“We set out early and proceeded on very well; the banks being firm and +the shore bold, we were enabled to use the towline, which, whenever +the banks will permit it, is the safest and most expeditious mode of +ascending the river, except under sail with a steady breeze. At the +distance of ten and one-half miles we came to the mouth of a small creek +on the south, below which the hills approach the river, and continue +near it during the day. Three miles further is a large creek on the +north; and again, six and three-quarters miles beyond this, is another +large creek, to the south; both containing a small quantity of running +water, of a brackish taste. The last we called Rattlesnake Creek, from +our seeing that animal near it. Although no timber can be observed on +it from the Missouri, it throws out large quantities of driftwood, among +which were some pieces of coal brought down by the stream. . . . + +“The game is in great quantities, but the buffalo are not so numerous as +they were some days ago; two rattlesnakes were seen to-day, and one of +them was killed. It resembles those of the Middle Atlantic States, being +about thirty inches long, of a yellowish brown on the back and sides, +variegated with a row of oval dark brown spots lying transversely on the +back from the neck to the tail, and two other rows of circular spots of +the same color on the sides along the edge of the scuta; there are one +hundred and seventy-six scuta on the belly, and seventeen on the tail.” + +Two days later, the journal records that one of the party killed a +grizzly bear, “which, though shot through the heart, ran at his usual +pace nearly a quarter of a mile before he fell.” + +The mouth of the Musselshell River, which was one of the notable points +that marked another stage in the journey, was reached on the twentieth +of May. This stream empties into the Missouri two thousand two hundred +and seventy miles above its mouth, and is still known by the name given +it by its discoverers. The journal says: + +“It is one hundred and ten yards wide, and contains more water than +streams of that size usually do in this country; its current is by no +means rapid, and there is every appearance of its being susceptible of +navigation by canoes for a considerable distance. Its bed is chiefly +formed of coarse sand and gravel, with an occasional mixture of black +mud; the banks are abrupt and nearly twelve feet high, so that they are +secure from being overflowed; the water is of a greenish-yellow cast, +and much more transparent than that of the Missouri, which itself, +though clearer than below, still retains its whitish hue and a portion +of its sediment. Opposite the point of junction the current of the +Missouri is gentle, and two hundred and twenty-two yards in width; +the bed is principally of mud, the little sand remaining being wholly +confined to the points, and the water is still too deep to use the +setting-pole. + +“If this be, as we suppose, the Musselshell, our Indian information is +that it rises in the first chain of the Rocky mountains not far from the +sources of the Yellowstone, whence in its course to this place it waters +a high broken country, well timbered, particularly on its borders, and +interspersed with handsome fertile plains and meadows. We have reason, +however, to believe, from their giving a similar account of the timber +where we now are, that the timber of which they speak is similar to that +which we have seen for a few days past, which consists of nothing more +than a few straggling small pines and dwarf cedars on the summits of the +hills, nine-tenths of the ground being totally destitute of wood, and +covered with short grass, aromatic herbs, and an immense quantity +of prickly-pear; though the party who explored it for eight miles +represented the low grounds on the river to be well supplied with +cottonwood of a tolerable size, and of an excellent soil. They also +report that the country is broken and irregular, like that near our +camp; and that about five miles up, a handsome river, about fifty +yards wide, which we named after Chaboneau’s wife, Sacajawea’s or the +Bird-woman’s River, discharges into the Musselshell on the north or +upper side.” + +Later explorations have shown that the Musselshell rises in the +Little Belt Mountains, considerably to the north of the sources of the +Yellowstone. Modern geography has also taken from the good Sacajawea +the honor of having her name bestowed on one of the branches of the +Musselshell. The stream once named for her is now known as Crooked +Creek: it joins the river near its mouth, in the central portion of +Montana. The journal, under date of May 22, has this entry:-- + +“The river (the Missouri) continues about two hundred and fifty yards +wide, with fewer sand-bars, and the current more gentle and regular. +Game is no longer in such abundance since leaving the Musselshell. We +have caught very few fish on this side of the Mandans, and these were +the white catfish, of two to five pounds. We killed a deer and a bear. +We have not seen in this quarter the black bear, common in the United +States and on the lower parts of the Missouri, nor have we discerned any +of their tracks. They may easily be distinguished by the shortness of +the talons from the brown, grizzly, or white bear, all of which seem to +be of the same species, which assumes those colors at different seasons +of the year. We halted earlier than usual, and camped on the north, in a +point of woods, at the distance of sixteen and one half miles (thus past +the site of Fort Hawley, on the south).” + +Notwithstanding the advance of the season, the weather in those great +altitudes grew more and more cold. Under date of May 23, the journal +records the fact that ice appeared along the edges of the river, and +water froze upon their oars. But notwithstanding the coolness of the +nights and mornings, mosquitoes were very troublesome. + +The explorers judged that the cold was somewhat unusual for that +locality, inasmuch as the cottonwood trees lost their leaves by the +frost, showing that vegetation, generally well suited to the temperature +of its country, or habitat, had been caught by an unusual nip of the +frost. The explorers noticed that the air of those highlands was so pure +and clear that objects appeared to be much nearer than they really were. +A man who was sent out to explore the country attempted to reach a ridge +(now known as the Little Rocky Mountains), apparently about fifteen +miles from the river. He travelled about ten miles, but finding himself +not halfway to the object of his search, he returned without reaching +it. + +The party was now just westward of the site of the present town of +Carroll, Montana, on the Missouri. Their journal says:-- + +“The low grounds are narrow and without timber; the country is high and +broken; a large portion of black rock and brown sandy rock appears in +the face of the hills, the tops of which are covered with scattered +pine, spruce, and dwarf cedar; the soil is generally poor, sandy near +the tops of the hills, and nowhere producing much grass, the low grounds +being covered with little else than the hyssop, or southernwood, and the +pulpy-leaved thorn. Game is more scarce, particularly beaver, of which +we have seen but few for several days, and the abundance or scarcity +of which seems to depend on the greater or less quantity of timber. At +twenty-four and one-half miles we reached a point of woodland on the +south, where we observed that the trees had no leaves, and camped for +the night.” + +The “hyssop, or southernwood,” the reader now knows to be the wild sage, +or sage-brush. The “pulpy-leaved thorn” mentioned in the journal is the +greasewood; and both of these shrubs flourish in the poverty-stricken, +sandy, alkaline soil of the far West and Northwest. The woody fibre of +these furnished the only fuel available for early overland emigrants to +the Pacific. + +The character of this country now changed considerably as the explorers +turned to the northward, in their crooked course, with the river. On the +twenty-fifth of May the journal records this:-- + +“The country on each side is high, broken, and rocky; the rock being +either a soft brown sandstone, covered with a thin stratum of limestone, +or else a hard, black, rugged granite, both usually in horizontal +strata, and the sand-rock overlaying the other. Salts and quartz, as +well as some coal and pumice-stone, still appear. The bars of the river +are composed principally of gravel; the river low grounds are narrow, +and afford scarcely any timber; nor is there much pine on the hills. The +buffalo have now become scarce; we saw a polecat (skunk) this evening, +which was the first for several days; in the course of the day we also +saw several herds of the bighorned animals among the steep cliffs on the +north, and killed several of them.” + +The bighorned animals, the first of which were killed here, were +sometimes called “Rocky Mountain sheep.” But sheep they were not, +bearing hair and not wool. As we have said, they are now more commonly +known as bighorns. + +The patience of the explorers was rewarded, on Sunday, May 26, 1806, by +their first view of the Rocky Mountains. Here is the journal’s record on +that date:-- + +“It was here (Cow Creek, Mont.) that, after ascending the highest summit +of the hills on the north side of the river, Captain Lewis first caught +a distant view of the Rock mountains--the object of all our hopes, and +the reward of all our ambition. On both sides of the river, and at no +great distance from it, the mountains followed its course. Above these +at the distance of fifty miles from us, an irregular range of mountains +spread from west to northwest from his position. To the north of these, +a few elevated points, the most remarkable of which bore N. 65'0 W., +appeared above the horizon; and as the sun shone on the snows of their +summits, he obtained a clear and satisfactory view of those mountains +which close on the Missouri the passage to the Pacific.” + +As they continued to ascend the Missouri they found themselves +confronted by many considerable rapids which sometimes delayed their +progress. They also set forth this observation: “The only animals we +have observed are the elk, the bighorn, and the hare common to +this country.” Wayfarers across the plains now call this hare the +jack-rabbit. The river soon became very rapid with a marked descent, +indicating their nearness to its mountain sources. The journal says:-- + +“Its general width is about two hundred yards; the shoals are more +frequent, and the rocky points at the mouths of the gullies more +troublesome to pass. Great quantities of stone lie in the river and on +its bank, and seem to have fallen down as the rain washed away the clay +and sand in which they were imbedded. The water is bordered by high, +rugged bluffs, composed of irregular but horizontal strata of yellow +and brown or black clay, brown and yellowish-white sand, soft +yellowish-white sandstone, and hard dark brown freestone; also, large +round kidney-formed irregular separate masses of a hard black ironstone, +imbedded in the clay and sand; some coal or carbonated wood also +makes its appearance in the cliffs, as do its usual attendants, the +pumice-stone and burnt earth. The salts and quartz are less abundant, +and, generally speaking, the country is, if possible, more rugged and +barren than that we passed yesterday; the only growth of the hills being +a few pine, spruce, and dwarf cedar, interspersed with an occasional +contrast, once in the course of some miles, of several acres of level +ground, which supply a scanty subsistence for a few little cottonwoods.” + +But, a few days later, the party passed out of this inhospitable region, +and, after passing a stream which they named Thompson’s (now Birch) +Creek, after one of their men, they were glad to make this entry in +their diary: + +“Here the country assumed a totally different aspect: the hills retired +on both sides from the river, which spreads to more than three times +its former size, and is filled with a number of small handsome islands +covered with cottonwood. The low grounds on its banks are again wide, +fertile, and enriched with trees: those on the north are particularly +wide, the hills being comparatively low, and opening into three large +valleys, which extend themselves for a considerable distance towards the +north. These appearances of vegetation are delightful after the dreary +hills among which we have passed; and we have now to congratulate +ourselves at having escaped from the last ridges of the Black Mountains. +On leaving Thompson’s Creek we passed two small islands, and at +twenty-three miles’ distance encamped among some timber; on the north, +opposite to a small creek, which we named Bull Creek. The bighorn are +in great quantities, and must bring forth their young at a very early +season, as they are now half grown. One of the party saw a large bear +also; but, being at a distance from the river, and having no timber to +conceal him, he would not venture to fire.” + +A curious adventure happened on the twenty-eighth, of which the journal, +next day, makes this mention:-- + +“Last night we were alarmed by a new sort of enemy. A buffalo swam over +from the opposite side, and to the spot where lay one of our canoes, +over which he clambered to the shore: then, taking fright, he ran full +speed up the bank towards our fires, and passed within eighteen inches +of the heads of some of the men before the sentinel could make him +change his course. Still more alarmed, he ran down between four fires, +and within a few inches of the heads of a second row of the men, and +would have broken into our lodge if the barking of the dog had not +stopped him. He suddenly turned to the right, and was out of sight in +a moment, leaving us all in confusion, every one seizing his rifle and +inquiring the cause of the alarm. On learning what had happened, we had +to rejoice at suffering no more injury than some damage to the guns that +were in the canoe which the buffalo crossed. . . . + +“We passed an island and two sand-bars, and at the distance of two +and a half miles came to a handsome river, which discharges itself on +the South, and which we ascended to the distance of a mile and a half: +we called it Judith’s River. It rises in the Rocky Mountains, in about +the same place with the Musselshell, and near the Yellowstone River. Its +entrance is one hundred yards wide from one bank to the other, the water +occupying about seventy-five yards, and being in greater quantity than +that of the Musselshell River. . . . There were great numbers of the +argalea, or bighorned animals, in the high country through which it +passes, and of beaver in its waters. Just above the entrance of it we +saw the ashes of the fires of one hundred and twenty-six lodges, which +appeared to have been deserted about twelve or fifteen days.” + +Leaving Judith’s River, named for a sweet Virginia lass, the explorers +sailed, or were towed, seventeen miles up the river, where they camped +at the mouth of a bold, running river to which they gave the name +of Slaughter River. The stream is now known as the Arrow; the +appropriateness of the title conferred on the stream by Lewis and Clark +appears from the story which they tell of their experience just below +“Slaughter River,” as follows: + +“On the north we passed a precipice about one hundred and twenty feet +high, under which lay scattered the fragments of at least one hundred +carcasses of buffaloes, although the water which had washed away the +lower part of the hill must have carried off many of the dead. These +buffaloes had been chased down the precipice in a way very common on +the Missouri, by which vast herds are destroyed in a moment. The mode of +hunting is to select one of the most active and fleet young men, who is +disguised by a buffalo-skin round his body; the skin of the head with +the ears and horns being fastened on his own head in such a way as to +deceive the buffalo. Thus dressed, he fixes himself at a convenient +distance between a herd of buffalo and any of the river precipices, +which sometimes extend for some miles. His companions in the mean +time get in the rear and side of the herd, and at a given signal show +themselves and advance toward the buffaloes. These instantly take +the alarm, and finding the hunters beside them, they run toward the +disguised Indian or decoy, who leads them on at full speed toward the +river; when, suddenly securing himself in some crevice of the cliff +which he had previously fixed on, the herd is left on the brink of the +precipice. It is then in vain for the foremost buffaloes to retreat or +even to stop; they are pressed on by the hindmost rank, which, seeing +no danger but from the hunters, goad on those before them till the +whole are precipitated, and the shore is strewn with their dead bodies. +Sometimes, in this perilous seduction, the Indian is himself either +trodden under foot by the rapid movements of the buffaloes, or missing +his footing in the cliff is urged down the precipice by the falling +herd. The Indians then select as much meat as they wish; the rest is +abandoned to the wolves, and creates a most dreadful stench. The wolves +which had been feasting on these carcasses were very fat, and so gentle +that one of them was killed with an espontoon.” (1) + + + (1) A short spear. + + +The dryness and purity of the air roused the admiration of the +explorers, who noticed that the woodwork of the cases of their +instruments shrank, and the joints opened, although the wood was old and +perfectly seasoned. A tablespoonful of water, exposed to the air in +an open saucer, would wholly evaporate in thirty-six hours, when the +thermometer did not mark higher than the “Temperate” point at the +warmest hour of the day. Contrary to their expectations, they had not +yet met with any Indians, although they saw many signs of their having +recently been in that vicinity. The journal says: + +“In the course of the day (May 30) we passed several encampments of +Indians, the most recent of which seemed to have been evacuated about +five weeks since; and, from the several apparent dates, we supposed +that they were formed by a band of about one hundred lodges, who were +travelling slowly up the river. Although no part of the Missouri from +the Minnetarees to this place exhibits signs of permanent settlements, +yet none seem exempt from the transient visits of hunting-parties. We +know that the Minnetarees of the Missouri extend their excursions on the +south side of the river as high as the Yellowstone, and the Assiniboins +visit the northern side, most probably as high as Porcupine River. All +the lodges between that place and the Rocky Mountains we supposed to +belong to the Minnetarees of Fort de Prairie, who live on the south fork +of the Saskashawan.” + +The party now entered upon some of the natural wonders of the West, +which have since become famous. Their journal says:-- + +“These hills and river-cliffs exhibit a most extraordinary and romantic +appearance. They rise in most places nearly perpendicular from the +water, to the height of between two hundred and three hundred feet, and +are formed of very white sandstone, so soft as to yield readily to the +impression of water, in the upper part of which lie imbedded two or +three thin horizontal strata of white freestone, insensible to the rain; +on the top is a dark rich loam, which forms a gradually ascending plain, +from a mile to a mile and a half in extent, when the hills again rise +abruptly to the height of about three hundred feet more. In trickling +down the cliffs, the water has worn the soft sandstone into a thousand +grotesque figures, among which, with a little fancy, may be discerned +elegant ranges of freestone buildings, with columns variously +sculptured, and supporting long and elegant galleries, while the +parapets are adorned with statuary. On a nearer approach they represent +every form of elegant ruins--columns, some with pedestals and capitals +entire, others mutilated and prostrate, and some rising pyramidally over +each other till they terminate in a sharp point. These are varied +by niches, alcoves, and the customary appearances of desolated +magnificence. The illusion is increased by the number of martins, which +have built their globular nests in the niches, and hover over these +columns, as in our country they are accustomed to frequent large +stone structures. As we advance there seems no end to the visionary +enchantment which surrounds us. + +“In the midst of this fantastic scenery are vast ranges of walls, which +seem the productions of art, so regular is the workmanship. They rise +perpendicularly from the river, sometimes to the height of one hundred +feet, varying in thickness from one to twelve feet, being as broad at +the top as below. The stones of which they are formed are black, thick, +durable, and composed of a large portion of earth, intermixed and +cemented with a small quantity of sand and a considerable proportion +of talk (talc) or quartz. These stones are almost invariably regular +parallelopipeds of unequal sizes in the wall, but equally deep and +laid regularly in ranges over each other like bricks, each breaking and +covering the interstice of the two on which it rests; but though the +perpendicular interstice be destroyed, the horizontal one extends +entirely through the whole work. The stones are proportioned to the +thickness of the wall in which they are employed, being largest in the +thickest walls. The thinner walls are composed of a single depth of the +parallelopiped, while the thicker ones consist of two or more depths. +These walls pass the river at several places, rising from the water’s +edge much above the sandstone bluffs, which they seem to penetrate; +thence they cross in a straight line, on either side of the river, the +plains, over which they tower to the height of from ten to seventy feet, +until they lose themselves in the second range of hills. Sometimes they +run parallel in several ranges near to each other, sometimes intersect +each other at right angles, and have the appearance of walls of ancient +houses or gardens.” + +The wall-like, canyon formations were charted by Lewis and Clark as “The +Stone Walls.” Their fantastic outlines have been admired and described +by modern tourists, and some of them have been named “Cathedral Rocks,” + “Citadel Rock,” “Hole in the Wall,” and so on. + +Passing out of this wonderful region, the expedition entered upon a more +level country, here and there broken by bluffy formations which extended +along the river, occasionally interspersed with low hills. Their journal +says: + +“In the plains near the river are the choke-cherry, yellow and red +currant bushes, as well as the wild rose and prickly pear, both of which +are now in bloom. From the tops of the river-hills, which are lower than +usual, we enjoyed a delightful view of the rich, fertile plains on +both sides, in many places extending from the river-cliffs to a great +distance back. In these plains we meet, occasionally, large banks of +pure sand, which were driven apparently by the southwest winds and there +deposited. The plains are more fertile some distance from the river than +near its banks, where the surface of the earth is very generally +strewed with small pebbles, which appear to be smoothed and worn by the +agitation of the waters with which they were, no doubt, once covered.” + +Under date of June 2d, the journal says:-- + +“The current of the river is strong but regular, the timber increases +in quantity, the low grounds become more level and extensive, and the +bluffs are lower than before. As the game is very abundant, we think +it necessary to begin a collection of hides for the purpose of making +a leathern boat, which we intend constructing shortly. The hunters, who +were out the greater part of the day, brought in six elk, two buffalo, +two mule-deer, and a bear. This last animal had nearly cost us the lives +of two of our hunters, who were together when he attacked them. One +of them narrowly escaped being caught, and the other, after running +a considerable distance, concealed himself in some thick bushes, and, +while the bear was in quick pursuit of his hiding-place, his companion +came up, and fortunately shot the animal through the head.” + +Here the party came to the mouth of a large river which entered the +Missouri from the northwest, at the site of the latter-day town of +Ophir, Montana. This stream they named Maria’s River, in honor of +another Virginia damsel. So large and important in appearance was +Maria’s River that the explorers were not certain which was the main +stream, that which came in from the north, or that which, flowing here +in a general course from southwest to northeast, was really the true +Missouri. The journal says: + +“It now became an interesting question, which of these two streams is +what the Minnetarees call Ahmateahza, or Missouri, which they describe +as approaching very near to the Columbia. On our right decision much +of the fate of the expedition depends; since if, after ascending to the +Rocky Mountains or beyond them, we should find that the river we were +following did not come near the Columbia, and be obliged to return, we +should not only lose the travelling season, two months of which have +already elapsed, but probably dishearten the men so much as to induce +them either to abandon the enterprise, or yield us a cold obedience, +instead of the warm and zealous support which they have hitherto +afforded us. We determined, therefore, to examine well before we decided +on our future course. For this purpose we despatched two canoes with +three men up each of the streams, with orders to ascertain the width, +depth, and rapidity of the current, so as to judge of their comparative +bodies of water. At the same time parties were sent out by land +to penetrate the country, and discover from the rising grounds, if +possible, the distant bearings of the two rivers; and all were directed +to return toward evening. . . .” + +Both parties returned without bringing any information that would settle +the point. Which was the true Missouri still remained uncertain. Under +these circumstances, it became necessary that there should be a more +thorough exploration, and the next morning Captains Lewis and Clark +set out at the head of two separate parties, the former to examine the +north, and the latter the south fork. In his progress Captain Lewis and +his party were frequently obliged to quit the course of the river and +cross the plains and hills, but he did not lose sight of its general +direction, and carefully took the bearings of the distant mountains. On +the morning of the third day he became convinced that this river pursued +a course too far north for his contemplated route to the Pacific, and he +accordingly determined to return, but judged it advisable to wait till +noon, that he might obtain a meridian altitude. In this, however, he was +disappointed, owing to the state of the weather. Much rain had fallen, +and their return was somewhat difficult, and not unattended with danger, +as the following incident, which occurred on June 7th, will show: + +“In passing along the side of a bluff at a narrow pass thirty yards +in length, Captain Lewis slipped, and, but for a fortunate recovery by +means of his spontoon, would have been precipitated into the river over +a precipice of about ninety feet. He had just reached a spot where, by +the assistance of his spontoon, he could stand with tolerable safety, +when he heard a voice behind him cry out, ‘Good God, captain, what shall +I do?’ He turned instantly, and found it was Windsor, who had lost his +foothold about the middle of the narrow pass, and had slipped down to +the very verge of the precipice, where he lay on his belly, with his +right arm and leg over it, while with the other leg and arm he was +with difficulty holding on, to keep himself from being dashed to pieces +below. His dreadful situation was instantly perceived by Captain Lewis, +who, stifling his alarm, calmly told him that he was in no danger; that +he should take his knife out of his belt with his right hand, and dig +a hole in the side of the bluff to receive his right foot. With great +presence of mind he did this, and then raised himself on his knees. +Captain Lewis then told him to take off his moccasins and come forward +on his hands and knees, holding the knife in one hand and his rifle in +the other. He immediately crawled in this way till he came to a secure +spot. The men who had not attempted this passage were ordered to return +and wade the river at the foot of the bluff, where they found the water +breast-high. This adventure taught them the danger of crossing the +slippery heights of the river; but as the plains were intersected by +deep ravines, almost as difficult to pass, they continued down the +river, sometimes in the mud of the low grounds, sometimes up to their +arms in the water; and when it became too deep to wade, they cut +footholds with their knives in the sides of the banks. In this way +they travelled through the rain, mud, and water, and having made only +eighteen miles during the whole day, camped in an old Indian lodge of +sticks, which afforded them a dry shelter. Here they cooked part of six +deer they had killed in the course of their walk, and having eaten the +only morsel they had tasted during the whole day, slept comfortably on +some willow-boughs.” + + + + +Chapter X -- To the Great Falls of the Missouri + +Next day, June 8, the Lewis party returned to the main body of the +expedition. They reported that timber was scarce along the river, except +in the lowlands, where there were pretty groves and thickets. These +trees, the journal says, were the haunts of innumerable birds, which, as +the sun rose, sung delightfully:-- + +“Among these birds they distinguished the brown thrush, robin, +turtle-dove, linnet, gold-finch, large and small blackbird, wren, and +some others. As they came along, the whole party were of opinion +that this river was the true Missouri; but Captain Lewis, being fully +persuaded that it was neither the main stream, nor that which it +would be advisable to ascend, gave it the name of Maria’s River. +After travelling all day they reached camp about five o’clock in the +afternoon, and found Captain Clark and the party very anxious for their +safety. As they had stayed two days longer than had been expected, and +as Captain Clark had returned at the appointed time, it was feared that +they had met with some accident.” + +As we now know, the stream that came in from the north was that which +is still called Maria’s (or Marais) River, and the so-called branch from +the southwest was the Missouri River. Lewis and Clark, however, were in +the dark as to the relations of the two streams. Which was the parent? +Which was the branch? After pondering all the evidence that could be +collected to bear on the important question, the two captains agreed +that the southern stream was the true Missouri, and the northern stream +was an important branch. The journal says: + +“These observations, which satisfied our minds completely, we +communicated to the party; but every one of them was of a contrary +opinion. Much of their belief depended on Crusatte, an experienced +waterman on the Missouri, who gave it as his decided judgment that the +north fork was the genuine Missouri. The men, therefore, mentioned that, +although they would most cheerfully follow us wherever we should direct, +yet they were afraid that the south fork would soon terminate in the +Rocky Mountains, and leave us at a great distance from the Columbia. In +order that nothing might be omitted which could prevent our falling into +an error, it was agreed that one of us should ascend the southern branch +by land, until we reached either the falls or the mountains. In the +meantime, in order to lighten our burdens as much as possible, we +determined to deposit here one of the pirogues, and all the heavy +baggage which we could possibly spare, as well as some provision, salt, +powder, and tools. This would at once lighten the other boats, and give +them the crew which had been employed on board the pirogue.” + +On the tenth of June, the weather being fair and pleasant, they dried +all their baggage and merchandise and secreted them in places of +deposits, called caches, as follows:-- + +“These deposits--or caches, as they are called by the Missouri +traders--are very common, particularly among those who deal with the +Sioux, as the skins and merchandise will keep perfectly sound for years, +and are protected from robbery. Our cache was built in the usual manner. +In the high plain on the north side of the Missouri, and forty yards +from a steep bluff, we chose a dry situation, and then, describing a +small circle of about twenty inches diameter, removed the sod as gently +and carefully as possible: the hole was then sunk perpendicularly for +a foot deep. It was now worked gradually wider as it descended, till at +length it became six or seven feet deep, shaped nearly like a kettle, +or the lower part of a large still with the bottom somewhat sunk at the +centre. As the earth was dug it was handed up in a vessel, and carefully +laid on a skin or cloth, in which it was carried away and thrown into +the river, so as to leave no trace of it. A floor of three or four +inches in thickness was then made of dry sticks, on which was placed a +hide perfectly dry. The goods, being well aired and dried, were laid on +this floor, and prevented from touching the wall by other dried sticks, +as the merchandise was stowed away. When the hole was nearly full, a +skin was laid over the goods, and on this earth was thrown and beaten +down, until, with the addition of the sod first removed, the whole +was on a level with the ground, and there remained not the slightest +appearance of an excavation. In addition to this, we made another of +smaller dimensions, in which we placed all the baggage, some powder, and +our blacksmith’s tools, having previously repaired such of the tools as +we carry with us that require mending. To guard against accident, we had +two parcelss of lead and powder in the two places. The red pirogue was +drawn up on the middle of a small island, at the entrance of Maria’s +River, and secured, by being fastened to the trees, from the effects of +any floods. We now took another observation of the meridian altitude of +the sun, and found that the mean latitude of Maria’s River, as deduced +from three observations, is 49'0 25’ 17.2” N.” + +In order to make assurance doubly sure, Captain Lewis resolved to +take four men with him and ascend the south branch (that is, the true +Missouri), before committing the expedition to that route as the final +one. His proposition was that his party should proceed up the river as +rapidly as possible in advance of the main party. On the second day out, +says the journal:-- + +“Captain Lewis left the bank of the river in order to avoid the steep +ravines, which generally run from the shore to the distance of one or +two miles in the plain. Having reached the open country he went for +twelve miles in a course a little to the W. of S.W.; when, the sun +becoming warm by nine o’clock, he returned to the river in quest of +water, and to kill something for breakfast; there being no water in +the plain, and the buffalo, discovering them before they came within +gunshot, took to flight. They reached the banks in a handsome open low +ground with cottonwood, after three miles’ walk. Here they saw two large +brown bears, and killed them both at the first fire--a circumstance +which has never before occurred since we have seen that animal. Having +made a meal of a part, and hung the remainder on a tree, with a note for +Captain Clark, they again ascended the bluffs into the open plains. +Here they saw great numbers of the burrowing-squirrel, also some wolves, +antelopes, mule-deer, and vast herds of buffalo. They soon crossed a +ridge considerably higher than the surrounding plains, and from its top +had a beautiful view of the Rocky Mountains, which are now completely +covered with snow. Their general course is from S.E. to N. of N.W., and +they seem to consist of several ranges which successively rise above +each other, till the most distant mingles with the clouds. After +travelling twelve miles they again met the river, where there was a +handsome plain of cottonwood.” + +Again leaving the river, Captain Lewis bore off more to the north, the +stream here bearing considerably to the south, with difficult bluffs +along its course. But fearful of passing the Great Falls before reaching +the Rocky Mountains, he again changed his course and, leaving the bluffs +to his right he turned towards the river. + +The journal gives this description of what followed:-- + +“In this direction Captain Lewis had gone about two miles, when his +ears were saluted with the agreeable sound of a fall of water, and as he +advanced a spray, which seemed driven by the high southwest wind, arose +above the plain like a column of smoke, and vanished in an instant. +Toward this point he directed his steps; the noise increased as he +approached, and soon became too tremendous to be mistaken for anything +but the Great Falls of the Missouri. Having travelled seven miles after +first hearing the sound, he reached the falls about twelve o’clock. The +hills as he approached were difficult of access and two hundred feet +high. Down these he hurried with impatience; and, seating himself on +some rocks under the centre of the falls, enjoyed the sublime spectacle +of this stupendous object, which since the creation had been lavishing +its magnificence upon the desert, unknown to civilization. + +“The river immediately at this cascade is three hundred yards wide, and +is pressed in by a perpendicular cliff on the left, which rises to about +one hundred feet and extends up the stream for a mile; on the right the +bluff is also perpendicular for three hundred yards above the falls. For +ninety or one hundred yards from the left cliff, the water falls in +one smooth, even sheet, over a precipice of at least eighty feet. +The remaining part of the river precipitates itself with a more rapid +current, but being received as it falls by the irregular and somewhat +projecting rocks below, forms a splendid prospect of perfectly white +foam, two hundred yards in length and eighty in perpendicular elevation. +This spray is dissipated into a thousand shapes, sometimes flying up in +columns of fifteen or twenty feet, which are then oppressed by larger +masses of the white foam, on all of which the sun impresses the +brightest colors of the rainbow. Below the fall the water beats with +fury against a ledge of rocks, which extends across the river at one +hundred and fifty yards from the precipice. From the perpendicular cliff +on the north to the distance of one hundred and twenty yards, the rocks +are only a few feet above the water; and, when the river is high, the +stream finds a channel across them forty yards wide, and near the higher +parts of the ledge, which rise about twenty feet, and terminate abruptly +within eighty or ninety yards of the southern side. Between them and +the perpendicular cliff on the south, the whole body of water runs with +great swiftness. A few small cedars grow near this ridge of rocks, which +serves as a barrier to defend a small plain of about three acres, shaded +with cottonwood; at the lower extremity of which is a grove of the same +trees, where are several deserted Indian cabins of sticks; below which +the river is divided by a large rock, several feet above the surface +of the water, and extending down the stream for twenty yards. At the +distance of three hundred yards from the same ridge is a second abutment +of solid perpendicular rock, about sixty feet high, projecting at right +angles from the small plain on the north for one hundred and thirty-four +yards into the river. After leaving this, the Missouri again spreads +itself to its previous breadth of three hundred yards, though with more +than its ordinary rapidity.” + +One of Lewis’s men was sent back to inform Captain Clark of this +momentous discovery, which finally settled all doubt as to which was +the true Missouri. The famous Great Falls of the river had been finally +reached. Captain Lewis next went on to examine the rapids above the +falls. The journal says:-- + +“After passing one continued rapid and three cascades, each three or +four feet high, he reached, at the distance of five miles, a second +fall. The river is here about four hundred yards wide, and for the +distance of three hundred rushes down to the depth of nineteen feet, and +so irregularly that he gave it the name of the Crooked Falls. From the +southern shore it extends obliquely upward about one hundred and fifty +yards, and then forms an acute angle downward nearly to the commencement +of four small islands close to the northern side. From the perpendicular +pitch to these islands, a distance of more than one hundred yards, the +water glides down a sloping rock with a velocity almost equal to that +of its fall: above this fall the river bends suddenly to the northward. +While viewing this place, Captain Lewis heard a loud roar above him, +and, crossing the point of a hill a few hundred yards, he saw one of the +most beautiful objects in nature: the whole Missouri is suddenly stopped +by one shelving rock, which, without a single niche, and with an edge as +straight and regular as if formed by art, stretches itself from one side +of the river to the other for at least a quarter of a mile. Over this +it precipitates itself in an even, uninterrupted sheet, to the +perpendicular depth of fifty feet, whence, dashing against the rocky +bottom, it rushes rapidly down, leaving behind it a sheet of the +purest foam across the river. The scene which it presented was indeed +singularly beautiful; since, without any of the wild, irregular +sublimity of the lower falls, it combined all the regular elegancies +which the fancy of a painter would select to form a beautiful waterfall. +The eye had scarcely been regaled with this charming prospect, when at +the distance of half a mile Captain Lewis observed another of a similar +kind. To this he immediately hastened, and found a cascade stretching +across the whole river for a quarter of a mile, with a descent of +fourteen feet, though the perpendicular pitch was only six feet. This, +too, in any other neighborhood, would have been an object of great +magnificence; but after what he had just seen, it became of secondary +interest. His curiosity being, however, awakened, he determined to go +on, even should night overtake him, to the head of the falls. + +“He therefore pursued the southwest course of the river, which was one +constant succession of rapids and small cascades, at every one of which +the bluffs grew lower, or the bed of the river became more on a level +with the plains. At the distance of two and one-half miles he arrived +at another cataract, of twenty-six feet. The river is here six hundred +yards wide, but the descent is not immediately perpendicular, though +the river falls generally with a regular and smooth sheet; for about +one-third of the descent a rock protrudes to a small distance, receives +the water in its passage, and gives it a curve. On the south side is a +beautiful plain, a few feet above the level of the falls; on the north, +the country is more broken, and there is a hill not far from the river. +Just below the falls is a little island in the middle of the river, well +covered with timber. Here on a cottonwood tree an eagle had fixed her +nest, and seemed the undisputed mistress of a spot, to contest whose +dominion neither man nor beast would venture across the gulfs that +surround it, and which is further secured by the mist rising from +the falls. This solitary bird could not escape the observation of the +Indians, who made the eagle’s nest a part of their description of the +falls, which now proves to be correct in almost every particular, except +that they did not do justice to the height. + +“Just above this is a cascade of about five feet, beyond which, as +far as could be discerned, the velocity of the water seemed to abate. +Captain Lewis now ascended the hill which was behind him, and saw from +its top a delightful plain, extending from the river to the base of the +Snowy (Rocky) Mountains to the south and southwest. Along this wide, +level country the Missouri pursued its winding course, filled with water +to its smooth, grassy banks, while about four miles above, it was joined +by a large river flowing from the northwest, through a valley three +miles in width, and distinguished by the timber which adorned its +shores. The Missouri itself stretches to the south, in one unruffled +stream of water, as if unconscious of the roughness it must soon +encounter, and bearing on its bosom vast flocks of geese, while numerous +herds of buffalo are feeding on the plains which surround it. + +“Captain Lewis then descended the hill, and directed his course towards +the river falling in from the west. He soon met a herd of at least a +thousand buffalo, and, being desirous of providing for supper, shot one +of them. The animal immediately began to bleed, and Captain Lewis, who +had forgotten to reload his rifle, was intently watching to see him +fall, when he beheld a large brown bear which was stealing on him +unperceived, and was already within twenty steps. In the first moment of +surprise he lifted his rifle; but, remembering instantly that it was not +charged, and that he had no time to reload, he felt that there was no +safety but in flight. It was in the open, level plain; not a bush nor a +tree within three hundred yards; the bank of the river sloping, and +not more than three feet high, so that there was no possible mode of +concealment. Captain Lewis, therefore, thought of retreating with a +quick walk, as fast as the bear advanced, towards the nearest tree; but, +as soon as he turned, the bear rushed open-mouthed, and at full speed, +upon him. Captain Lewis ran about eighty yards, but finding that the +animal gained on him fast, it flashed on his mind that, by getting into +the water to such a depth that the bear would be obliged to attack him +swimming, there was still some chance of his life; he therefore turned +short, plunged into the river about waist-deep, and facing about +presented the point of his espontoon. The bear arrived at the water’s +edge within twenty feet of him; but as soon as he put himself in this +posture of defence, the bear seemed frightened, and wheeling about, +retreated with as much precipitation as he had pursued. Very glad to +be released from this danger, Captain Lewis returned to the shore, +and observed him run with great speed, sometimes looking back as if he +expected to be pursued, till he reached the woods. He could not conceive +the cause of the sudden alarm of the bear, but congratulated himself +on his escape when he saw his own track torn to pieces by the furious +animal, and learned from the whole adventure never to suffer his rifle +to be a moment unloaded.” + +Captain Lewis now resumed his progress towards the western, or Sun, +River, then more commonly known among the Indians as Medicine River. +In going through the lowlands of this stream, he met an animal which he +thought was a wolf, but which was more likely a wolverine, or carcajou. +The journal says:-- + +“It proved to be some brownish yellow animal, standing near its burrow, +which, when he came nigh, crouched, and seemed as if about to spring on +him. Captain Lewis fired, and the beast disappeared in its burrow. From +the track, and the general appearance of the animal, he supposed it +to be of the tiger kind. He then went on; but, as if the beasts of +the forest had conspired against him, three buffalo bulls, which were +feeding with a large herd at the distance of half a mile, left their +companions, and ran at full speed towards him. He turned round, and, +unwilling to give up the field, advanced to meet them: when they were +within a hundred yards they stopped, looked at him for some time, and +then retreated as they came. He now pursued his route in the dark, +reflecting on the strange adventures and sights of the day, which +crowded on his mind so rapidly, that he should have been inclined to +believe it all enchantment if the thorns of the prickly pear, piercing +his feet, had not dispelled at every moment the illusion. He at last +reached the party, who had been very anxious for his safety, and who had +already decided on the route which each should take in the morning to +look for him. Being much fatigued, he supped, and slept well during the +night.” + +On awaking the next morning, Captain Lewis found a large rattlesnake +coiled on the trunk of a tree under which he had been sleeping. He +killed it, and found it like those he had seen before, differing from +those of the Atlantic States, not in its colors, but in the form and +arrangement of them. Information was received that Captain Clark had +arrived five miles below, at a rapid which he did not think it prudent +to ascend, and that he was waiting there for the party above to rejoin +him. + +After the departure of Captain Lewis, Captain Clark had remained a day +at Maria’s River, to complete the deposit of such articles as they could +dispense with, and started on the twelfth of June. + +Four days later, Captain Clark left the river, having sent his messenger +to Captain Lewis, and began to search for a proper portage to convey the +pirogue and canoes across to the Columbia River, leaving most of the +men to hunt, make wheels and draw the canoes up a creek which they named +Portage Creek, as it was to be the base of their future operations. The +stream is now known as Belt Mountain Creek. But the explorers soon +found that although the pirogue was to be left behind, the way was too +difficult for a portage even for canoes. The journal says:-- + +“We found great difficulty and some danger in even ascending the creek +thus far, in consequence of the rapids and rocks of the channel of the +creek, which just above where we brought the canoes has a fall of +five feet, with high steep bluffs beyond it. We were very fortunate in +finding, just below Portage Creek, a cottonwood tree about twenty-two +inches in diameter, large enough to make the carriage-wheels. It was, +perhaps, the only one of the same size within twenty miles; and the +cottonwood which we are obliged to employ in the other parts of the work +is extremely soft and brittle. The mast of the white pirogue, which we +mean to leave behind, supplied us with two axle-trees. + +“There are vast quantities of buffalo feeding on the plains or watering +in the river, which is also strewed with the floating carcasses and +limbs of these animals. They go in large herds to water about the falls, +and as all the passages to the river near that place are narrow and +steep, the foremost are pressed into the river by the impatience of +those behind. In this way we have seen ten or a dozen disappear over +the falls in a few minutes. They afford excellent food for the wolves, +bears, and birds of prey; which circumstance may account for the +reluctance of the bears to yield their dominion over the neighborhood. + +“The pirogue was drawn up a little below our camp, and secured in a +thick copse of willow-bushes. We now began to form a cache or place +of deposit, and to dry our goods and other articles which required +inspection. The wagons are completed. Our hunters brought us ten deer, +and we shot two out of a herd of buffalo that came to water at Sulphur +Spring. There is a species of gooseberry, growing abundantly among the +rocks on the sides of the cliffs. It is now ripe, of a pale red color, +about the size of the common gooseberry, and like it is an ovate +pericarp of soft pulp enveloping a number of small whitish seeds, and +consisting of a yellowish, slimy, mucilaginous substance, with a sweet +taste; the surface of the berry is covered glutinous, adhesive matter, +and its fruit, though ripe, retains its withered corolla. The shrub +itself seldom rises more than two feet high, is much branched, and has +no thorns. The leaves resemble those of the common gooseberry, except +in being smaller, and the berry is supported by separate peduncles or +foot-stalks half an inch long. There are also immense quantities +of grasshoppers, of a brown color, on the plains; they, no doubt, +contribute to the lowness of the grass, which is not generally more than +three inches high, though it is soft, narrow-leaved, and affords a fine +pasture for the buffalo.” + + + + +Chapter XI -- A the Heart of the Continent + +Captain Clark continued his observations up the long series of rapids +and falls until he came to a group of three small islands to which +he gave the name of White Bear Islands, from his having seen numerous +white, or grizzly, bears on them. On the nineteenth of June, Captain +Clark, after a careful survey of the country on both sides of the +stream, decided that the best place for a portage was on the south, or +lower, side of the river, the length of the portage being estimated +to be about eighteen miles, over which the canoes and supplies must +be carried. Next day he proceeded to mark out the exact route of the +portage, or carry, by driving stakes along its lines and angles. From +the survey and drawing which he made, the party now had a clear and +accurate view of the falls, cascades, and rapids of the Missouri; and, +it may be added, this draught, which is reproduced on another page +of this book, is still so correct in all its measurements that when a +Montana manufacturing company undertook to build a dam at Black Eagle +Falls, nearly one hundred years afterwards, they discovered that their +surveys and those of Captain Clark were precisely alike. The total fall +of the river, from the White Bear Islands, as Lewis and Clark called +them, to the foot of the Great Falls, is four hundred twelve and +five-tenths feet; the sheer drop of the Great Fall is seventy-five and +five-tenths feet. The wild, trackless prairie of Lewis and Clark’s +time is now the site of the thriving town of Great Falls, which has a +population of ten thousand. + +Here is a lucid and connected account of the falls and rapids, +discovered and described by Lewis and Clark: + +“This river is three hundred yards wide at the point where it +receives the waters of Medicine (Sun) River, which is one hundred and +thirty-seven yards in width. The united current continues three hundred +and twenty-eight poles to a small rapid on the north side, from which it +gradually widens to fourteen hundred yards, and at the distance of five +hundred and forty-eight poles reaches the head of the rapids, narrowing +as it approaches them. Here the hills on the north, which had withdrawn +from the bank, closely border the river, which, for the space of three +hundred and twenty poles, makes its way over the rocks, with a descent +of thirty feet. In this course the current is contracted to five hundred +and eighty yards, and after throwing itself over a small pitch of five +feet, forms a beautiful cascade of twenty-six feet five inches; this +does not, however, fall immediately or perpendicularly, being stopped by +a part of the rock, which projects at about one-third of the distance. +After descending this fall, and passing the cottonwood island on which +the eagle has fixed her nest, the river goes on for five hundred and +thirty-two poles over rapids and little falls, the estimated descent +of which is thirteen and one-half feet, till it is joined by a large +fountain boiling up underneath the rocks near the edge of the river, +into which it falls with a cascade of eight feet. The water of this +fountain is of the most perfect clearness, and of rather a bluish cast; +and, even after falling into the Missouri, it preserves its color +for half a mile. From the fountain the river descends with increased +rapidity for the distance of two hundred and fourteen poles, during +which the estimated descent is five feet; and from this, for a distance +of one hundred and thirty-five poles, it descends fourteen feet seven +inches, including a perpendicular fall of six feet seven inches. +The Missouri has now become pressed into a space of four hundred and +seventy-three yards, and here forms a grand cataract, by falling over +a plain rock the whole distance across the river, to the depth of +forty-seven feet eight inches. After recovering itself, it then proceeds +with an estimated descent of three feet, till, at the distance of +one hundred and two poles, it is precipitated down the Crooked Falls +nineteen feet perpendicular. Below this, at the mouth of a deep ravine, +is a fall of five feet; after which, for the distance of nine hundred +and seventy poles, the descent is much more gradual, not being more than +ten feet, and then succeeds a handsome level plain for the space of one +hundred and seventy-eight poles, with a computed descent of three feet, +the river making a bend towards the north. Thence it descends, for four +hundred and eighty poles, about eighteen and one-half feet, when it +makes a perpendicular fall of two feet, which is ninety poles beyond the +great cataract; in approaching which, it descends thirteen feet within +two hundred yards, and, gathering strength from its confined channel, +which is only two hundred and eighty yards wide, rushes over the fall to +the depth of eighty-seven feet. + +“After raging among the rocks, and losing itself in foam, it is +compressed immediately into a bed of ninety-three yards in width: it +continues for three hundred and forty poles to the entrance of a run or +deep ravine, where there is a fall of three feet, which, added to the +decline during that distance, makes the descent six feet. As it goes +on, the descent within the next two hundred and forty poles is only +four feet; from this, passing a run or deep ravine, the descent in four +hundred poles is thirteen feet; within two hundred and forty poles, +another descent of eighteen feet; thence, in one hundred and sixty +poles, a descent of six feet; after which, to the mouth of Portage +Creek, a distance of two hundred and eighty poles, the descent is +ten feet. From this survey and estimate, it results that the river +experiences a descent of three hundred and fifty-two feet in the +distance of two and three quarter miles, from the commencement of the +rapids to the mouth of Portage Creek, exclusive of the almost impassable +rapids which extend for a mile below its entrance.” + +On the twenty-first of the month, all the needed preparations having +been finished, the arduous work of making the portage, or carry, was +begun. All the members of the expedition were now together, and the two +captains divided with their men the labor of hunting, carrying luggage, +boat-building, exploring, and so on. They made three camps, the lower +one on Portage Creek, the next at Willow Run (see map), and a third at +a point opposite White Bear Islands. The portage was not completed until +July second. They were often delayed by the breaking down of their rude +carriages, and during the last stage of their journey much of their +luggage was carried on the backs of the men. They were also very much +annoyed with the spines of the prickly pear, a species of cactus, +which, growing low on the ground, is certain to be trampled upon by the +wayfarer. The spines ran through the moccasins of the men and sorely +wounded their feet. Thus, under date of June twenty-fourth, the journal +says (It should be understood that the portage was worked from above and +below the rapids):-- + +“On going down yesterday Captain Clark cut off several angles of the +former route, so as to shorten the portage considerably, and marked it +with stakes. He arrived there in time to have two of the canoes carried +up in the high plain, about a mile in advance. Here they all repaired +their moccasins, and put on double soles to protect them from the +prickly pear, and from the sharp points of earth which have been formed +by the trampling of the buffalo during the late rains. This of itself is +sufficient to render the portage disagreeable to one who has no burden; +but as the men are loaded as heavily as their strength will permit, the +crossing is really painful. Some are limping with the soreness of their +feet; others are scarcely able to stand for more than a few minutes, +from the heat and fatigue. They are all obliged to halt and rest +frequently; at almost every stopping-place they fall, and many of them +are asleep in an instant; yet no one complains, and they go on with +great cheerfulness. At the camp, midway in the portage, Drewyer and +Fields joined them; for, while Captain Lewis was looking for them at +Medicine River, they returned to report the absence of Shannon, about +whom they had been very uneasy. They had killed several buffalo at the +bend of the Missouri above the falls, dried about eight hundred pounds +of meat, and got one hundred pounds of tallow; they had also killed some +deer, but had seen no elk.” + +Under this date, too, Captain Lewis, who was with another branch of the +expedition, makes this note: “Such as were able to shake a foot amused +themselves in dancing on the green to the music of the violin which +Cruzatte plays extremely well.” + +The journal continues:-- + +“We were now occupied (at White Bear camp) in fitting up a boat of +skins, the frame of which had been prepared for the purpose at Harper’s +Ferry in Virginia. It was made of iron, thirty-six feet long, four and +one-half feet in the beam, and twenty-six inches wide in the bottom. Two +men had been sent this morning for timber to complete it, but they could +find scarcely any even tolerably straight sticks four and one-half feet +long; and as the cottonwood is too soft and brittle, we were obliged to +use willow and box-elder.” + +On the twenty-seventh, the main party, which was working on the upper +part of the portage, joined that of Captain Clark at the lower camp, +where a second cache, or place of deposit, had been formed, and where +the boat-swivel was now hidden under the rocks. The journal says:-- + +“The party were employed in preparing timber for the boat, except two +who were sent to hunt. About one in the afternoon a cloud arose from +the southwest, and brought with it violent thunder, lightning, and hail. +Soon after it passed, the hunters came in, from about four miles above +us. They had killed nine elk and three bears. As they were hunting on +the river they saw a low ground covered with thick brushwood, where from +the tracks along shore they thought a bear had probably taken refuge. +They therefore landed, without making a noise, and climbed a tree about +twenty feet above the ground. Having fixed themselves securely, they +raised a loud shout, and a bear instantly rushed toward them. These +animals never climb, and therefore when he came to the tree and stopped +to look at them, Drewyer shot him in the head. He proved to be the +largest we had yet seen; his nose appeared to be like that of a common +ox; his fore feet measured nine inches across; the hind feet were seven +inches wide and eleven and three quarters long, exclusive of the talons. +One of these animals came within thirty yards of the camp last night, +and carried off some buffalo-meat which we had placed on a pole.” + +The party were very much annoyed here by the grizzlies which infested +their camp at night. Their faithful dog always gave warning of the +approach of one of these monsters; but the men were obliged to sleep +with their guns by their side, ready to repel the enemy at a moment’s +notice. + +Captain Clark finally broke up the camp on Portage Creek, June 28, +having deposited in his cache whatever could be left behind without +inconvenience. “On the following day,” the journal says:-- + +“Finding it impossible to reach the upper end of the portage with the +present load, in consequence of the state of the road after the rain, he +sent back nearly all his party to bring on the articles which had been +left yesterday. Having lost some notes and remarks which he had made +on first ascending the river, he determined to go up to the Whitebear +Islands along its banks, in order to supply the deficiency. He there +left one man to guard the baggage, and went on to the falls, accompanied +by his servant York, Chaboneau, and his wife with her young child. + +“On his arrival there he observed a very dark cloud rising in the west, +which threatened rain, and looked around for some shelter; but could +find no place where the party would be secure from being blown into the +river, if the wind should prove as violent as it sometimes does in the +plains. At length, about a quarter of a mile above the falls, he found +a deep ravine, where there were some shelving rocks, under which he +took refuge. They were on the upper side of the ravine near the river, +perfectly safe from the rain, and therefore laid down their guns, +compass, and other articles which they carried with them. The shower +was at first moderate; it then increased to a heavy rain, the effects +of which they did not feel; but soon after, a torrent of rain and hail +descended. The rain seemed to fall in a solid mass, and instantly, +collecting in the ravine, came rolling down in a dreadful current, +carrying the mud, rocks, and everything that opposed it. Captain Clark +fortunately saw it a moment before it reached them, and springing up +with his gun and shot-pouch in his left hand, with his right clambered +up the steep bluff, pushing on the Indian woman with her child in her +arms; her husband too had seized her hand and was pulling her tip the +hill, but he was so terrified at the danger that he remained frequently +motionless; and but for Captain Clark, himself and his wife and child +would have been lost. So instantaneous was the rise of the water that, +before Captain Clark had reached his gun and begun to ascend the bank, +the water was up to his waist, and he could scarcely get up faster than +it rose, till it reached the height of fifteen feet, with a furious +current which, had they waited a moment longer, would have swept +them into the river just above the Great Falls, down which they must +inevitably have been precipitated. They reached the plain in safety and +found York, who had separated from them just before the storm to hunt +some buffalo, and was now returning to find his master. They had been +obliged to escape so rapidly that Captain Clark lost his compass (that +is, circumferentor) and umbrella, Chaboneau left his gun, with Captain +Lewis’ wiping-rod, shot-pouch, and tomahawk, and the Indian woman had +just time to grasp her child, before the net in which it lay at her feet +was carried down the current.” + +Such a storm is known in the West as a cloud-burst. Overland emigrants +in the early rush to California often suffered loss from these sudden +deluges. A party of men, with wagons and animals, have been known to +be swept away and lost in a flood bursting in a narrow canyon in the +mountains. + +“Captain Clark now relinquished his intention of going up the river, and +returned to the camp at Willow Run. Here he found that the party +sent this morning for the baggage had all returned to camp in great +confusion, leaving their loads in the plain. On account of the heat, +they generally go nearly naked, and with no covering on their heads. +The hail was so large, and driven so furiously against them by the high +wind, that it knocked several of them down: one of them, particularly, +was thrown on the ground three times, and most of them were bleeding +freely, and complained of being much bruised. Willow Run had risen six +feet since the rain; and, as the plains were so wet that they could not +proceed, they passed the night at their camp. + +“At the White Bear camp, also,” (says Lewis), “we had not been +insensible to the hailstorm, though less exposed. In the morning there +had been a heavy shower of rain, after which it became fair. After +assigning to the men their respective employments, Captain Lewis took +one of them, and went to see the large fountain near the falls. . . . It +is, perhaps, the largest in America, and is situated in a pleasant level +plain, about twenty-five yards from the river, into which it falls over +some steep, irregular rocks, with a sudden ascent of about six feet in +one part of its course. The water boils up from among the rocks, and +with such force near the centre that the surface seems higher there than +the earth on the sides of the fountain, which is a handsome turf of +fine green grass. The water is extremely pure, cold, and pleasant to the +taste, not being impregnated with lime or any foreign substance. It is +perfectly transparent, and continues its bluish cast for half a mile +down the Missouri, notwithstanding the rapidity of the river. After +examining it for some time, Captain Lewis returned to the camp. . . .” + +“Two men were sent (June 30) to the falls to look for the articles +lost yesterday; but they found nothing but the compass, covered with mud +and sand, at the mouth of the ravine. The place at which Captain Clark +had been caught by the storm was filled with large rocks. The men +complain much of the bruises received yesterday from the hail. A +more than usual number of buffalo appeared about the camp to-day, and +furnished plenty of meat. Captain Clark thought that at one view he must +have seen at least ten thousand.” + +Of the party at the upper camp, opposite White Bear Islands, the journal +makes this observation:-- + +“The party continues to be occupied with the boat, the cross-bars for +which are now finished, and there remain only the strips to complete the +woodwork. The skins necessary to cover it have already been prepared; +they amount to twenty-eight elk-skins and four buffalo-skins. Among our +game were two beaver, which we have had occasion to observe are found +wherever there is timber. We also killed a large bull-bat or goatsucker, +of which there are many in this neighborhood, resembling in every +respect those of the same species in the United States. We have not seen +the leather-winged bat for some time, nor are there any of the small +goatsucker in this part of the Missouri. We have not seen that species +of goatsucker called the whippoorwill, which is commonly confounded in +the United States with the large goatsucker which we observe here. +This last prepares no nest, but lays its eggs on the open plains; they +generally begin to sit on two eggs, and we believe raise only one brood +in a season; at the present moment they are just hatching their young.” + +Dr. Coues says that we should bear in mind that this was written “when +bats were birds and whales were fishes for most persons.” The journal +confounds bats, which are winged mammals, with goatsuckers, or +whippoorwills, which are birds. + +The second of July was an interesting date for the explorers. On that +day we find the following entry in their journal:-- + +“A shower of rain fell very early this morning. We then despatched some +men for the baggage left behind yesterday, and the rest were engaged in +putting the boat together. This was accomplished in about three hours, +and then we began to sew on the leather over the crossbars of iron on +the inner side of the boat which form the ends of the sections. By two +o’clock the last of the baggage arrived, to the great delight of +the party, who were anxious to proceed. The mosquitoes we find very +troublesome. + +“Having completed our celestial observations, we went over to the large +island to make an attack upon its inhabitants, the bears, which have +annoyed us very much of late, and were prowling about our camp all last +night. We found that the part of the island frequented by the bears +forms an almost impenetrable thicket of the broad-leaved willow. Into +this we forced our way in parties of three; but could see only one bear, +which instantly attacked Drewyer. Fortunately, as he was rushing on, the +hunter shot him through the heart within twenty paces and he fell, which +enabled Drewyer to get out of his way. We then followed him one hundred +yards, and found that the wound had been mortal. + +“Not being able to discover any more of these animals, we returned +to camp. Here, in turning over some of the baggage, we caught a rat +somewhat larger than the common European rat, and of a lighter color; +the body and outer parts of the legs and head of a light lead color; the +inner side of the legs, as well as the belly, feet, and ears, white; the +ears are not covered with hair, and are much larger than those of the +common rat; the toes also are longer; the eyes are black and prominent, +the whiskers very long and full; the tail is rather longer than the +body, and covered with fine fur and hair of the same size with that on +the back, which is very close, short, and silky in its texture. This was +the first we had met, although its nests are very frequent in the cliffs +of rocks and hollow trees, where we also found large quantities of the +shells and seed of the prickly-pear.” + +The queer rat discovered by Lewis and Clark was then unknown to science. +It is now known in the Far West as the pack-rat. It lives in holes and +crevices of the rocks, and it subsists on the shells and seeds of the +prickly pear, which is usually abundant in the hunting grounds of the +little animal. The explorers were now constantly in full view of the +Rocky Mountain, on which, however, their present title had not then been +conferred. Under date of July 2, the journal says:-- + +“The mosquitoes are uncommonly troublesome. The wind was again high +from the southwest. These winds are in fact always the coldest and most +violent which we experience, and the hypothesis which we have formed +on that subject is, that the air, coming in contact with the Snowy +Mountains, immediately becomes chilled and condensed, and being thus +rendered heavier than the air below, it descends into the rarefied air +below, or into the vacuum formed by the constant action of the sun +on the open unsheltered plains. The clouds rise suddenly near these +mountains, and distribute their contents partially over the neighboring +plains. The same cloud will discharge hail alone in one part, hail and +rain in another, and rain only in a third, all within the space of a few +miles; while at the same time there is snow falling on the mountains +to the southeast of us. There is at present no snow on those mountains; +that which covered them on our arrival, as well as that which has since +fallen, having disappeared. The mountains to the north and northwest +of us are still entirely covered with snow; indeed, there has been no +perceptible diminution of it since we first saw them, which induces a +belief either that the clouds prevailing at this season do not reach +their summits or that they deposit their snow only. They glisten with +great beauty when the sun shines on them in a particular direction, and +most probably from this glittering appearance have derived the name of +the Shining Mountains.” + +A mysterious noise, heard by the party, here engaged their attention, +as it did years afterwards the attention of other explorers. The journal +says:-- + +“Since our arrival at the falls we have repeatedly heard a strange noise +coming from the mountains in a direction a little to the north of west. +It is heard at different periods of the day and night (sometimes when +the air is perfectly still and without a cloud), and consists of one +stroke only, or of five or six discharges in quick succession. It is +loud, and resembles precisely the sound of a six-pound piece of ordnance +at the distance of three miles. The Minnetarees frequently mentioned +this noise, like thunder, which they said the mountains made; but we had +paid no attention to it, believing it to have been some superstition, or +perhaps a falsehood. The watermen also of the party say that the +Pawnees and Ricaras give the same account of a noise heard in the Black +Mountains to the westward of them. The solution of the mystery given by +the philosophy of the watermen is, that it is occasioned by the bursting +of the rich mines of silver confined within the bosom of the mountains.” + +Of these strange noises there are many explanations, the most plausible +being that they are caused by the explosion of the species of stone +known as the geode, fragments of which are frequently found among the +mountains. The geode has a hollow cell within, lined with beautiful +crystals of many colors. + +Independence Day, 1805, was celebrated with becoming patriotism and +cheerfulness by these far-wandering adventurers. Their record says:-- + +“An elk and a beaver are all that were killed to-day; the buffalo seem +to have withdrawn from our neighborhood, though several of the men, who +went to-day to visit the falls for the first time, mention that they +are still abundant at that place. We contrived, however, to spread not +a very sumptuous but a comfortable table in honor of the day, and in +the evening gave the men a drink of spirits, which was the last of our +stock. Some of them appeared sensible to the effects of even so small +a quantity; and as is usual among them on all festivals, the fiddle was +produced and a dance begun, which lasted till nine o’clock, when it was +interrupted by a heavy shower of rain. They continued their merriment, +however, till a late hour.” + +Their bill-of-fare, according to Captain Lewis, was bacon, beans, suet +dumplings, and buffalo meat, which, he says, “gave them no just cause to +covet the sumptuous feasts of our countrymen on this day.” More than a +year passed before they again saw and tasted spirits. + +Great expectations were entertained of the boat that was built here on +the iron frame brought all the way from Harper’s Ferry, Virginia. The +frame was covered with dressed skins of buffalo and elk, the seams being +coated with a composition of powdered charcoal and beeswax, in default +of tar or pitch. This craft was well named the “Experiment,” and a +disappointing experiment it proved to be. Here is Captain Lewis’ account +of her failure: + +“The boat having now become sufficiently dry, we gave her a coat of the +composition, which after a proper interval was repeated, and the next +morning, Tuesday, July 9th, she was launched into the water, and swam +perfectly well. The seats were then fixed and the oars fitted; but +after we had loaded her, as well as the canoes, and were on the point of +setting out, a violent wind caused the waves to wet the baggage, so +that we were forced to unload the boats. The wind continued high until +evening, when to our great disappointment we discovered that nearly +all the composition had separated from the skins and left the seams +perfectly exposed; so that the boat now leaked very much. To repair this +misfortune without pitch is impossible, and as none of that article +is to be procured, we therefore, however reluctantly, are obliged to +abandon her, after having had so much labor in the construction. We now +saw that the section of the boat covered with buffalo-skins on which +hair had been left answered better than the elk-skins, and leaked but +little; while that part which was covered with hair about one-eighth of +an inch retained the composition perfectly, and remained sound and +dry. From this we perceived that had we employed buffalo instead of +elk skins, not singed them so closely as we did, and carefully avoided +cutting the leather in sewing, the boat would have been sufficient even +with the present composition; or had we singed instead of shaving the +elk-skins, we might have succeeded. But we discovered our error too +late; the buffalo had deserted us, and the travelling season was so +fast advancing that we had no time to spare for experiments; therefore, +finding that she could be no longer useful, she was sunk in the water, +so as to soften the skins, and enable us the more easily to take her to +pieces. + +“It now became necessary to provide other means for transporting the +baggage which we had intended to stow in her. For this purpose we shall +want two more canoes; but for many miles--from below the mouth of the +Musselshell River to this place--we have not seen a single tree fit to +be used in that way. The hunters, however, who have hitherto been sent +after timber, mention that there is a low ground on the opposite side of +the river, about eight miles above us by land, and more than twice that +distance by water, in which we may probably find trees large enough for +our purposes. Captain Clark determined, therefore, to set out by land +for that place with ten of the best workmen, who would be occupied in +building the canoes till the rest of the party, after taking the boat to +pieces, and making the necessary deposits, should transport the baggage, +and join them with the other six canoes. + +“He accordingly passed over to the opposite side of the river with his +party next day, and proceeded on eight miles by land, the distance by +water being twenty-three and three quarter miles. Here he found two +cottonwood trees; but, on cutting them down, one proved to be hollow, +split at the top in falling, and both were much damaged at the bottom. +He searched the neighborhood, but could find none which would suit +better, and therefore was obliged to make use of those which he had +felled, shortening them in order to avoid the cracks, and supplying the +deficiency by making them as wide as possible. They were equally at a +loss for wood of which they might make handles for their axes, the eyes +of which not being round, they were obliged to split the timber in such +a manner that thirteen of the handles broke in the course of the day, +though made of the best wood they could find for the purpose, which was +the chokecherry. + +“The rest of the party took the frame of the boat to pieces, deposited +it in a cache or hole, with a draught of the country from Fort Mandan +to this place, and also some other papers and small articles of less +importance.” + +High winds prevented the party from making rapid progress, and +notwithstanding the winds they were greatly troubled with mosquitoes. +Lest the reader should think the explorers too sensitive on the +subject of these troublesome pests, it should be said that only western +travellers can realize the numbers and venom of the mosquitoes of that +region. Early emigrants across the continent were so afflicted by these +insects that the air at times seemed full of gray clouds of them. It +was the custom of the wayfarers to build a “smudge,” as it was called, +a low, smouldering fire of green boughs and brush, the dense smoke +from which (almost as annoying as the mosquitoes) would drive off their +persecutors as long, as the victims sat in the smoke. The sleeping tent +was usually cleared in this way before “turning in” at night, every +opening of the canvas being afterwards closed. + +Captain Lewis, on the thirteenth of July, followed Captain Clark up the +river; crossing the stream to the north bank, with his six canoes and +all his baggage, he overtook the other party on the same day and found +them all engaged in boat-building. + +“On his way he passed a very large Indian lodge, which was probably +designed as a great council-house; but it differed in its construction +from all that we had seen, lower down the Missouri or elsewhere. The +form of it was a circle two hundred and sixteen feet in circumference at +the base; it was composed of sixteen large cottonwood poles about fifty +feet long and at their thicker ends, which touched the ground, about the +size of a man’s body. They were distributed at equal distances, except +that one was omitted to the cast, probably for the entrance. From the +circumference of this circle the poles converged toward the centre, +where they were united and secured by large withes of willow-brush. +There was no covering over this fabric, in the centre of which were +the remains of a large fire, and around it the marks of about eighty +leathern lodges. He also saw a number of turtle-doves, and some pigeons, +of which he shot one, differing in no respect from the wild pigeon of +the United States. . . .” + +“The buffalo have not yet quite gone, for the hunters brought in three, +in very good order. It requires some diligence to supply us plentifully, +for as we reserve our parched meal for the Rocky Mountains, where we do +not expect to find much game, our principal article of food is meat, and +the consumption of the whole thirty-two persons belonging to the +party amounts to four deer, an elk and a deer, or one buffalo, every +twenty-four hours. The mosquitoes and gnats persecute us as violently as +below, so that we can get no sleep unless defended by biers (nets), with +which we are all provided. We here found several plants hitherto unknown +to us, of which we preserved specimens.” + +On the fourteenth of July, the boats were finally launched, and next day +the journal records this important event: + +“We rose early, embarked all our baggage on board the canoes, which, +though eight in number, are heavily loaded, and at ten o’clock set out +on our journey. . . . At the distance of seven and a half miles we came +to the lower point of a woodland, at the entrance of a beautiful river, +which, in honor of the Secretary of the Navy, we called Smith’s River. +This stream falls into a bend on the south side of the Missouri, and +is eighty yards wide. As far as we could discern its course, it wound +through a charming valley towards the southeast, in which many herds +of buffalo were feeding, till, at the distance of twenty-five miles, it +entered the Rocky Mountains and was lost from our view. . . . + +“We find the prickly pear, one of the greatest beauties as well as +greatest inconveniences of the plains, now in full bloom. The sunflower, +too, a plant common on every part of the Missouri from its entrance to +this place, is here very abundant, and in bloom. The lamb’s-quarter, +wild cucumber, sand-rush, and narrow dock, are also common.” + +The journal here records the fact that the great river had now become so +crooked that it was expedient to note only its general course, leaving +out all description of its turns and windings. The Missouri was now +flowing due north, leaving its bends out of account, and the explorers, +ascending the river, were therefore travelling south; and although the +journal sets forth “the north bank” and “the south bank,” it should be +understood that west is meant by the one, and east by the other. Buffalo +were observed in great numbers. Many obstacles to navigating the river +were encountered. Under date of July 17, the journal says: + +“The navigation is now very laborious. The river is deep, but with +little current, and from seventy to one hundred yards wide; the low +grounds are very narrow, with but little timber, and that chiefly the +aspen tree. The cliffs are steep, and hang over the river so much that +often we could not cross them, but were obliged to pass and repass from +one side of the river to the other, in order to make our way. In +some places the banks are formed of dark or black granite rising +perpendicularly to a great height, through which the river seems, in the +progress of time, to have worn its channel. On these mountains we see +more pine than usual, but it is still in small quantities. Along the +bottoms, which have a covering of high grass, we observed the sunflower +blooming in great abundance. The Indians of the Missouri, more +especially those who do not cultivate maize, make great use of the seed +of this plant for bread, or in thickening their soup. They first parch +and then pound it between two stones, until it is reduced to a fine +meal. Sometimes they add a portion of water, and drink it thus diluted; +at other times they add a sufficient proportion of marrow-grease to +reduce it to the consistency of common dough, and eat it in that manner. +This last composition we preferred to all the rest, and thought it at +that time a very palatable dish.” + +They also feasted on a great variety of wild berries, purple, yellow, +and black currants, which were delicious and more pleasant to the palate +than those grown in their Virginia home-gardens; also service-berries, +popularly known to later emigrants as “sarvice-berries.” These grow on +small bushes, two or three feet high; and the fruit is purple-skinned, +with a white pulp, resembling a ripe gooseberry. + +The journal, next day, has the following entry:-- + +“This morning early, before our departure, we saw a large herd of the +big-horned animals, which were bounding among the rocks on the opposite +cliff with great agility. These inaccessible spots secure them from +all their enemies, and their only danger is in wandering among these +precipices, where we would suppose it scarcely possible for any animal +to stand; a single false step would precipitate them at least five +hundred feet into the water. + +“At one and one fourth miles we passed another single cliff on the left; +at the same distance beyond which is the mouth of a large river emptying +from the north. It is a handsome, bold, and clear stream, eighty yards +wide--that is, nearly as broad as the Missouri--with a rapid current, +over a bed of small smooth stones of various figures. The water is +extremely transparent; the low grounds are narrow, but possess as much +wood as those of the Missouri. The river has every appearance of being +navigable, though to what distance we cannot ascertain, as the country +which it waters is broken and mountainous. In honor of the Secretary of +War we called it Dearborn’s River.” + +General Henry Dearborn, who was then Secretary of War, in Jefferson’s +administration, gave his name, a few years later, to a collection of +camps and log-cabins on Lake Michigan; and in due time Fort Dearborn +became the great city of Chicago. Continuing, the journal says: + +“Being now very anxious to meet with the Shoshonees or Snake Indians, +for the purpose of obtaining the necessary information of our route, +as well as to procure horses, it was thought best for one of us to go +forward with a small party and endeavor to discover them, before the +daily discharge of our guns, which is necessary for our subsistence, +should give them notice of our approach. If by an accident they hear us, +they will most probably retreat to the mountains, mistaking us for their +enemies, who usually attack them on this side.” . . . . . . . . . + +Captain Clark was now in the lead with a small party, and he came upon +the remains of several Indian camps formed of willow-brush, Traces of +Indians became more plentiful. The journal adds:-- + +“At the same time Captain Clark observed that the pine trees had been +stripped of their bark about the same season, which our Indian woman +says her countrymen do in order to obtain the sap and the soft parts of +the wood and bark for food. About eleven o’clock he met a herd of +elk and killed two of them; but such was the want of wood in the +neighborhood that he was unable to procure enough to make a fire, and +was therefore obliged to substitute the dung of the buffalo, with which +he cooked his breakfast. They then resumed their course along an old +Indian road. In the afternoon they reached a handsome valley, watered by +a large creek, both of which extended a considerable distance into the +mountain. This they crossed, and during the evening travelled over a +mountainous country covered with sharp fragments of flint rock; these +bruised and cut their feet very much, but were scarcely less troublesome +than the prickly-pear of the open plains, which have now become so +abundant that it is impossible to avoid them, and the thorns are so +strong that they pierce a double sole of dressed deer-skin; the best +resource against them is a sole of buffalo-hide in parchment (that +is, hard dried). At night they reached the river much fatigued, having +passed two mountains in the course of the day, and travelled thirty +miles. Captain Clark’s first employment, on lighting a fire, was to +extract from his feet the thorns, which he found seventeen in number.” + +The dung of the buffalo, exposed for many years to the action of sun, +wind, and rain, became as dry and firm as the finest compressed hay. +As “buffalo chips,” in these treeless regions, it was the overland +emigrants’ sole dependence for fuel. + +The explorers now approached a wonderful pass in the Rocky Mountains +which their journal thus describes: + +“A mile and a half beyond this creek (Cottonwood Creek) the rocks +approach the river on both sides, forming a most sublime and +extraordinary spectacle. For five and three quarter miles these rocks +rise perpendicularly from the water’s edge to the height of nearly +twelve hundred feet. They are composed of a black granite near their +base, but from the lighter color above, and from the fragments, we +suppose the upper part to be flint of a yellowish brown and cream color. + +“Nothing can be imagined more tremendous than the frowning darkness +of these rocks, which project over the river and menace us with +destruction. The river, one hundred and fifty yards in width, seems to +have forced its channel down this solid mass; but so reluctantly has it +given way, that during the whole distance the water is very deep even at +the edges, and for the first three miles there is not a spot, except +one of a few yards, in which a man could stand between the water and the +towering perpendicular of the mountain. The convulsion of the passage +must have been terrible, since at its outlet there are vast columns +of rock torn from the mountain, which are strewed on both sides of the +river, the trophies, as it were, of its victory. Several fine springs +burst out from the chasms of the rock, and contribute to increase the +river, which has a strong current, but, very fortunately, we were able +to overcome it with our oars, since it would have been impossible to use +either the cord or the pole. We were obliged to go on some time after +dark, not being able to find a spot large enough to encamp on; but at +length, about two miles above a small island in the middle of the river, +we met with a place on the left side, where we procured plenty of light +wood and pitch pine. This extraordinary range of rocks we called the +Gates of the Rocky Mountains.” + +Some of Captain Clark’s men, engaged in hunting, gave the alarm to +roving bands of Shoshonee Indians, hunting in that vicinity. The noise +of their guns attracted the attention of the Indians, who, having set +fire to the grass as a warning to their comrades, fled to the mountains. +The whole country soon appeared to have taken fright, and great clouds +of smoke were observed in all directions. Falling into an old Indian +trail, Captain Clark waited, with his weary and footsore men, for the +rest of the party to come up with them. + +The explorers had now passed south, between the Big Belt range of +mountains on the cast and the main chain of the Rocky Mountains on the +west. Meagher County, Montana, now lies on the cast of their trail, and +on the west side of that route is the county of Lewis and Clark. They +were now--still travelling southward--approaching the ultimate sources +of the great Missouri. The journal says:-- + +“We are delighted to find that the Indian woman recognizes the country; +she tells us that to this creek her countrymen make excursions to +procure white paint on its banks, and we therefore call it Whiteearth +Creek. She says also that the Three Forks of the Missouri are at no +great distance--a piece of intelligence which has cheered the spirits +of us all, as we hope soon to reach the head of that river. This is the +warmest day, except one, we have experienced this summer. In the shade +the mercury stood at eighty degrees, which is the second time it has +reached that height during this season. We camped on an island, after +making nineteen and three quarters miles. + +“In the course of the day we saw many geese, cranes, small birds common +to the plains, and a few pheasants. We also observed a small plover or +curlew of a brown color, about the size of a yellow-legged plover or +jack-curlew, but of a different species. It first appeared near the +mouth of Smith’s River, but is so shy and vigilant that we were unable +to shoot it. Both the broad and narrow-leaved willow continue, +though the sweet willow has become very scarce. The rosebush, small +honeysuckle, pulpy-leaved thorn, southernwood, sage, box-elder, +narrow-leaved cottonwood, redwood, and a species of sumach, are all +abundant. So, too, are the red and black gooseberries, service-berry, +choke-cherry, and the black, yellow, red, and purple currants, which +last seems to be a favorite food of the bear. Before camping we landed +and took on board Captain Clark, with the meat he had collected during +this day’s hunt, which consisted of one deer and an elk; we had, +ourselves, shot a deer and an antelope.” + +The party found quantities of wild onions of good flavor and size. They +also observed wild flax, garlic, and other vegetable products of value. +The journal adds:-- + +“We saw many otter and beaver to-day (July 24th). The latter seem to +contribute very much to the number of islands, and the widening of the +river. They begin by damming up the small channels of about twenty yards +between the islands: this obliges the river to seek another outlet, and, +as soon as this is effected, the channel stopped by the beaver becomes +filled with mud and sand. The industrious animal is then driven to +another channel, which soon shares the same fate, till the river spreads +on all sides, and cuts the projecting points of the land into islands. +We killed a deer, and saw great numbers of antelopes, cranes, some +geese, and a few red-headed ducks. The small birds of the plains and +the curlew are still abundant: we saw a large bear, but could not come +within gunshot of him. There are numerous tracks of the elk, but none +of the animals themselves; and, from the appearance of bones and old +excrement, we suppose that buffalo sometimes stray into the valley, +though we have as yet seen no recent sign of them. Along the water are +a number of snakes, some of a uniform brown color, others black, and +a third speckled on the abdomen, and striped with black and a brownish +yellow on the back and sides. The first, which is the largest, is about +four feet long; the second is of the kind mentioned yesterday; and the +third resembles in size and appearance the garter-snake of the United +States. On examining the teeth of all these several kinds, we found them +free from poison: they are fond of the water, in which they take shelter +on being pursued. The mosquitoes, gnats, and prickly pear, our three +persecutors, still continue with us, and, joined with the labor of +working the canoes, have fatigued us all excessively.” + +On Thursday, July 25, Captain Clark, who was in the lead, as usual, +arrived at the famous Three Forks of the Missouri. The stream flowing in +a generally northeastern direction was the true, or principal Missouri, +and was named the Jefferson. The middle branch was named the Madison, +in honor of James Madison, then Secretary of State, and the fork next to +the eastward received the name of Albert Gallatin, then Secretary of +the Treasury; and by these titles the streams are known to this day. The +explorers had now passed down to their furthest southern limit, their +trail being to the eastward of the modern cities of Helena and Butte, +and separated only by a narrow divide (then unknown to them) from the +sources of some of the streams that fall into the Pacific Ocean. Under +the date of July 27, the journal says:-- + +“We are now very anxious to see the Snake Indians. After advancing for +several hundred miles into this wild and mountainous country, we may +soon expect that the game will abandon us. With no information of the +route, we may be unable to find a passage across the mountains when we +reach the head of the river--at least, such a pass as will lead us +to the Columbia. Even are we so fortunate as to find a branch of that +river, the timber which we have hitherto seen in these mountains does +not promise us any fit to make canoes, so that our chief dependence is +on meeting some tribe from whom we may procure horses. Our consolation +is that this southwest branch can scarcely head with any other river +than the Columbia; and that if any nation of Indians can live in the +mountains we are able to endure as much as they can, and have even +better means of procuring subsistence.” + + + + +Chapter XII -- At the Sources of the Missouri + +The explorers were now (in the last days of July, 1805) at the head of +the principal sources of the great Missouri River, in the fastnesses +of the Rocky Mountains, at the base of the narrow divide that separates +Idaho from Montana in its southern corner. Just across this divide are +the springs that feed streams falling into the majestic Columbia and +then to the Pacific Ocean. As has been already set forth, they named the +Three Forks for President Jefferson and members of his cabinet. These +names still survive, although Jefferson River is the true Missouri +and not a fork of that stream. Upon the forks of the Jefferson Lewis +bestowed the titles of Philosophy, Wisdom, and Philanthropy, each of +these gifts and graces being, in his opinion, “an attribute of that +illustrious personage, Thomas Jefferson,” then President of the United +States. But alas for the fleeting greatness of geographical honor! +Philosophy River is now known as Willow Creek, and at its mouth, a busy +little railroad town, is Willow City. The northwest fork is no longer +Wisdom, but Big Hole River; deep valleys among the mountains are known +as holes; and the stream called by that name, once Wisdom, is followed +along its crooked course by a railroad that connects Dillon, Silver Bow, +and Butte City, Montana. Vulgarity does its worst for Philanthropy; its +modern name on the map is Stinking Water. + +On the thirtieth of July, the party, having camped long enough to unpack +and dry their goods, dress their deerskins and make them into leggings +and moccasins, reloaded their canoes and began the toilsome ascent of +the Jefferson. The journal makes this record:-- + +“Sacajawea, our Indian woman, informs us that we are encamped on the +precise spot where her countrymen, the Snake Indians, had their huts +five years ago, when the Minnetarees of Knife River first came in +sight of them, and from whom they hastily retreated three miles up +the Jefferson, and concealed themselves in the woods. The Minnetarees, +however, pursued and attacked them, killed four men, as many women, +and a number of boys; and made prisoners of four other boys and all +the females, of whom Sacajawea was one. She does not, however, show any +distress at these recollections, nor any joy at the prospect of being +restored to her country; for she seems to possess the folly, or the +philosophy, of not suffering her feelings to extend beyond the anxiety +of having plenty to eat and a few trinkets to wear. + +“This morning the hunters brought in some fat deer of the long-tailed +red kind, which are quite as large as those of the United States, +and are, indeed, the only kind we have found at this place. There are +numbers of the sand-hill cranes feeding in the meadows: we caught a +young one of the same color as the red deer, which, though it had nearly +attained its full growth, could not fly; it is very fierce, and strikes +a severe blow with its beak. . . . + +“Captain Lewis proceeded after dinner through an extensive low ground of +timber and meadow-land intermixed; but the bayous were so obstructed by +beaver-dams that, in order to avoid them, he directed his course toward +the high plain on the right. This he gained with some difficulty, +after wading up to his waist through the mud and water of a number +of beaver-dams. When he desired to rejoin the canoes he found the +underbrush so thick, and the river so crooked, that this, joined to the +difficulty of passing the beaver-dams, induced him to go on and endeavor +to intercept the river at some point where it might be more collected +into one channel, and approach nearer the high plain. He arrived at the +bank about sunset, having gone only six miles in a direct course from +the canoes; but he saw no traces of the men, nor did he receive any +answer to his shouts and the firing of his gun. It was now nearly dark; +a duck lighted near him, and he shot it. He then went on the head of a +small island, where he found some driftwood, which enabled him to cook +his duck for supper, and laid down to sleep on some willow-brush. The +night was cool, but the driftwood gave him a good fire, and he suffered +no inconvenience, except from the mosquitoes.” + +The easy indifference to discomfort with which these well-seasoned +pioneers took their hardships must needs impress the reader. It was a +common thing for men, or for a solitary man, to be caught out of camp +by nightfall and compelled to bivouac, like Captain Lewis, in the +underbrush, or the prairie-grass. As they pressed on, game began to fail +them. Under date of July 31, they remark that the only game seen that +day was one bighorn, a few antelopes, deer, and a brown bear, all of +which escaped them. “Nothing was killed to-day,” it is recorded, “nor +have we had any fresh meat except one beaver for the last two days; so +that we are now reduced to an unusual situation, for we have hitherto +always had a great abundance of flesh.” Indeed, one reason for this is +found in Captain Lewis’s remark: “When we have plenty of fresh meat, I +find it impossible to make the men take any care of it, or use it with +the least frugality, though I expect that necessity will shortly teach +them this art.” We shall see, later on, that the men, who were really as +improvident of food as the Indians, had hard lessons from necessity. + +Anxious to reach the Indians, who were believed to be somewhere ahead +of them, Captain Lewis and three men went on up the Jefferson, Captain +Clark and his party following with the canoes and luggage in a more +leisurely manner. The advance party were so fortunate as to overtake a +herd of elk, two of which they killed; what they did not eat they left +secured for the other party with the canoes. Clark’s men also had good +luck in hunting, for they killed five deer and one bighorn. Neither +party found fresh tracks of Indians, and they were greatly discouraged +thereat. The journal speaks of a beautiful valley, from six to eight +miles wide, where they saw ancient traces of buffalo occupation, but no +buffalo. These animals had now completely disappeared; they were seldom +seen in those mountains. The journal says of Lewis:-- + +“He saw an abundance of deer and antelope, and many tracks of elk and +bear. Having killed two deer, they feasted sumptuously, with a dessert +of currants of different colors--two species red, others yellow, deep +purple, and black; to these were added black gooseberries and deep +purple service-berries, somewhat larger than ours, from which they +differ also in color, size, and the superior excellence of their +flavor. In the low grounds of the river were many beaver-dams formed of +willow-brush, mud, and gravel, so closely interwoven that they resist +the water perfectly; some of them were five feet high, and caused the +river to overflow several acres of land.” + +Meanwhile, the party with the canoes were having a fatiguing time as +they toiled up the river. On the fourth of August, after they had made +only fifteen miles, the journal has this entry:-- + +“The river is still rapid, and the water, though clear, is very much +obstructed by shoals or ripples at every two hundred or three hundred +yards. At all these places we are obliged to drag the canoes over the +stones, as there is not a sufficient depth of water to float them, and +in the other parts the current obliges us to have recourse to the cord. +But as the brushwood on the banks will not permit us to walk on shore, +we are under the necessity of wading through the river as we drag the +boats. This soon makes our feet tender, and sometimes occasions severe +falls over the slippery stones; and the men, by being constantly wet, +are becoming more feeble. In the course of the day the hunters killed +two deer, some geese and ducks, and the party saw some antelopes, +cranes, beaver, and otter.” + +Captain Lewis had left a note for Captain Clark at the forks of the +Jefferson and Wisdom rivers. Clark’s journal says:-- + +“We arrived at the forks about four o’clock, but, unluckily, Captain +Lewis’s note had been attached to a green pole, which the beaver had cut +down, and carried off with the note on it: an accident which deprived us +of all information as to the character of the two branches of the river. +Observing, therefore, that the northwest fork was most in our direction, +we ascended it. We found it extremely rapid, and its waters were +scattered in such a manner that for a quarter of a mile we were forced +to cut a passage through the willow-brush that leaned over the little +channels and united at the top. After going up it for a mile, we +encamped on an island which had been overflowed, and was still so wet +that we were compelled to make beds of brush to keep ourselves out of +the mud. Our provision consisted of two deer which had been killed in +the morning.” + +It should be borne in mind that this river, up which the party were +making their way, was the Wisdom (now Big Hole), and was the northwest +fork of the Jefferson, flowing from southeast to northwest; and near the +point where it enters the Jefferson, it has a loop toward the northeast; +that is to say, it comes from the southwest to a person looking up its +mouth. + + +After going up the Wisdom River, Clark’s party were overtaken by +Drewyer, Lewis’s hunter, who had been sent across between the forks to +notify Clark that Lewis regarded the other fork--the main Jefferson--as +the right course to take. The party, accordingly, turned about and began +to descend the stream, in order to ascend the Jefferson. The journal +says:-- + +“On going down, one of the canoes upset and two others filled with +water, by which all the baggage was wet and several articles were +irrecoverably lost. As one of them swung round in a rapid current, +Whitehouse was thrown out of her; while down, the canoe passed over him, +and had the water been two inches shallower would have crushed him to +pieces; but he escaped with a severe bruise of his leg. In order to +repair these misfortunes we hastened (down) to the forks, where we were +joined by Captain Lewis. We then passed over to the left (east) side, +opposite the entrance of the rapid fork, and camped on a large gravelly +bar, near which there was plenty of wood. Here we opened, and exposed +to dry, all the articles which had suffered from the water; none of them +were completely spoiled except a small keg of powder; the rest of the +powder, which was distributed in the different canoes, was quite safe, +although it had been under the water for upward of an hour. The air is +indeed so pure and dry that any wood-work immediately shrinks, unless +it is kept filled with water; but we had placed our powder in small +canisters of lead, each containing powder enough for the canister when +melted into bullets, and secured with cork and wax, which answered our +purpose perfectly. . . .” + +“In the evening we killed three deer and four elk, which furnished us +once more with a plentiful supply of meat. Shannon, the same man who had +been lost for fifteen days (August 28 to Sept. 11, 1804), was sent +out this morning to hunt, up the northwest fork. When we decided on +returning, Drewyer was directed to go in quest of him, but he returned +with information that he had gone several miles up the (Wisdom) river +without being able to find Shannon. We now had the trumpet sounded, +and fired several guns; but he did not return, and we fear he is again +lost.” + +This man, although an expert hunter, had an unlucky habit of losing +himself in the wilderness, as many another good man has lost himself +among the mountains or the great plains. This time, however, he came +into camp again, after being lost three days. + +On the eighth of August the party reached a point now known by its +famous landmark, Beaver Head, a remarkable rocky formation which gives +its name to Beaverhead County, Montana. The Indian woman, Sacajawea, +recognized the so-called beaver-head, which, she said, was not far from +the summer retreat of her countrymen, living on the other side of the +mountains. The whole party were now together again, the men with the +canoes having come up; and the journal says:-- + +“Persuaded of the absolute necessity of procuring horses to cross +the mountains, it was determined that one of us should proceed in the +morning to the head of the river, and penetrate the mountains till +he found the Shoshonees or some other nation who can assist us in +transporting our baggage, the greater part of which we shall be +compelled to leave without the aid of horses.”. . . + +Early the next day Captain Lewis took Drewyer, Shields, and M’Neal, and, +slinging their knapsacks, they set out with a resolution to meet some +nation of Indians before they returned, however long they might be +separated from the party. + +The party in the canoes continued to ascend the river, which was so +crooked that they advanced but four miles in a direct line from their +starting-place in a distance of eleven miles. In this manner, the party +on foot leading those with the canoes, they repeatedly explored the +various forks of the streams, which baffled them by their turnings and +windings. Lewis was in the advance, and Clark brought up the rear with +the main body. It was found necessary for the leading party to wade the +streams, and occasionally they were compelled by the roughness of +the way to leave the water-course and take to the hills, where great +vigilance was required to keep them in sight of the general direction in +which they must travel. On the 11th of August, 1805, Captain Lewis came +in sight of the first Indian encountered since leaving the country of +the Minnetarees, far back on the Missouri. The journal of that date +says: + +“On examining him with the glass Captain Lewis saw that he was of a +different nation from any Indians we had hitherto met. He was armed with +a bow and a quiver of arrows, and mounted on an elegant horse without a +saddle; a small string attached to the under jaw answered as a bridle. + +“Convinced that he was a Shoshonee, and knowing how much our success +depended on the friendly offices of that nation, Captain Lewis was full +of anxiety to approach without alarming him, and endeavor to convince +him that he (Lewis) was a white man. He therefore proceeded toward the +Indian at his usual pace. When they were within a mile of each other the +Indian suddenly stopped. Captain Lewis immediately followed his example, +took his blanket from his knapsack, and, holding it with both hands at +the two corners, threw it above his head, and unfolded it as he brought +it to the ground, as if in the act of spreading it. This signal, which +originates in the practice of spreading a robe or skin as a seat for +guests to whom they wish to show a distinguished kindness, is the +universal sign of friendship among the Indians on the Missouri and the +Rocky Mountains. As usual, Captain Lewis repeated this signal three +times: still the Indian kept his position, and looked with an air of +suspicion on Drewyer and Shields, who were now advancing on each side. +Captain Lewis was afraid to make any signal for them to halt, lest he +should increase the distrust of the Indian, who began to be uneasy, and +they were too distant to hear his voice. He therefore took from his pack +some beads, a looking-glass, and a few trinkets, which he had brought +for the purpose, and, leaving his gun, advanced unarmed towards the +Indian. He remained in the same position till Captain Lewis came within +two hundred yards of him, when he turned his horse and began to move off +slowly. Captain Lewis then called out to him in as loud a voice as he +could, repeating the words tabba bone, which in the Shoshonee language +mean white man. But, looking over his shoulder, the Indian kept his eyes +on Drewyer and Shields, who were still advancing, without recollecting +the impropriety of doing so at such a moment, till Captain Lewis made a +signal to them to halt: this Drewyer obeyed, but Shields did not observe +it, and still went forward. Seeing Drewyer halt, the Indian turned his +horse about as if to wait for Captain Lewis, who now reached within one +hundred and fifty paces, repeating the words tabba bone, and holding up +the trinkets in his hand, at the same time stripping up the sleeve of +his shirt to show the color of his skin. The Indian suffered him to +advance within one hundred paces, then suddenly turned his horse, and, +giving him the whip, leaped across the creek, and disappeared in an +instant among the willow bushes: with him vanished all the hopes +which the sight of him had inspired, of a friendly introduction to his +countrymen.” + +Sadly disappointed by the clumsy imprudence of his men, Captain Lewis +now endeavored to follow the track of the retreating Indian, hoping that +this might lead them to an encampment, or village, of the Shoshonees. He +also built a fire, the smoke of which might attract the attention of +the Indians. At the same time, he placed on a pole near the fire a +small assortment of beads, trinkets, awls, and paints, in order that the +Indians, if they returned that way, might discover them and be thereby +assured the strangers were white men and friends. Next morning, while +trying to follow the trail of the lone Indian, they found traces of +freshly turned earth where people had been digging for roots; and, later +on, they came upon the fresh track of eight or ten horses. But these +were soon scattered, and the explorers only found that the general +direction of the trails was up into the mountains which define the +boundary between Montana and Idaho. Skirting the base of these mountains +(the Bitter Root), the party endeavored to find a plain trail, or Indian +road, leading up to a practicable pass. Travelling in a southwesterly +direction along the main stream, they entered a valley which led into +the mountains. Here they ate their last bit of fresh meat, the remainder +of a deer they had killed a day or two before; they reserved for their +final resort, in case of famine, a small piece of salt pork. The journal +says:-- + +“They then continued through the low bottom, along the main stream, near +the foot of the mountains on their right. For the first five miles, the +valley continues toward the southwest, being from two to three miles in +width; then the main stream, which had received two small branches from +the left in the valley, turned abruptly to the west through a narrow +bottom between the mountains. The road was still plain, and, as it +led them directly on toward the mountain, the stream gradually became +smaller, till, after going two miles, it had so greatly diminished in +width that one of the men, in a fit of enthusiasm, with one foot on +each side of the river, thanked God that he had lived to bestride the +Missouri. As they went along their hopes of soon seeing the Columbia +(that is, the Pacific watershed) arose almost to painful anxiety, when +after four miles from the last abrupt turn of the river (which turn +had been to the west), they reached a small gap formed by the high +mountains, which recede on each side, leaving room for the Indian road. +From the foot of one of the lowest of these mountains, which rises with +a gentle ascent of about half a mile, issues the remotest water of the +Missouri. + +“They had now reached the hidden sources of that river, which had never +yet been seen by civilized man. As they quenched their thirst at the +chaste and icy fountain--as they sat down by the brink of that little +rivulet, which yielded its distant and modest tribute to the parent +ocean--they felt themselves rewarded for all their labors and all their +difficulties. + +“They left reluctantly this interesting spot, and, pursuing the Indian +road through the interval of the hills, arrived at the top of a ridge, +from which they saw high mountains, partially covered with snow, still +to the west of them. + +“The ridge on which they stood formed the dividing line between the +waters of the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. They followed a descent +much steeper than that on the eastern side, and at the distance of +three-quarters of a mile reached a handsome, bold creek of cold, clear +water running to the westward. They stopped to taste, for the first +time, the waters of the Columbia; and, after a few minutes, followed the +road across steep hills and low hollows, when they came to a spring on +the side of a mountain. Here they found a sufficient quantity of dry +willow-brush for fuel, and therefore halted for the night; and, having +killed nothing in the course of the day, supped on their last piece of +pork, and trusted to fortune for some other food to mix with a little +flour and parched meal, which was all that now remained of their +provisions.” + + + + +Chapter XIII -- From the Minnetarees to the Shoshonees + +Travelling in a westerly direction, with a very gradual descent, Captain +Lewis, on the thirteenth of August, came upon two Indian women, a man, +and some dogs. The Indians sat down when the strangers first came in +sight, as if to wait for their coming; but, soon taking alarm, they +all fled, much to the chagrin of the white men. Now striking into a +well-worn Indian road, they found themselves surely near a village. The +journal says:-- + +“They had not gone along the road more than a mile, when on a sudden +they saw three female Indians, from whom they had been concealed by +the deep ravines which intersected the road, till they were now within +thirty paces of each other. One of them, a young woman, immediately took +to flight; the other two, an elderly woman and a little girl, seeing +they were too near for them to escape, sat on the ground, and holding +down their heads seemed as if reconciled to the death which they +supposed awaited them. The same habit of holding down the head and +inviting the enemy to strike, when all chance of escape is gone, is +preserved in Egypt to this day. + +“Captain Lewis instantly put down his rifle, and advancing toward them, +took the woman by the hand, raised her up, and repeated the words ‘tabba +bone!’ at the same time stripping up his shirt-sleeve to prove that he +was a white man--for his hands and face had become by constant exposure +quite as dark as their own. She appeared immediately relieved from her +alarm; and Drewyer and Shields now coming up, Captain Lewis gave them +some beads, a few awls, pewter mirrors, and a little paint, and told +Drewyer to request the woman to recall her companion, who had escaped to +some distance and, by alarming the Indians, might cause them to attack +him without any time for explanation. She did as she was desired, and +the young woman returned almost out of breath. Captain Lewis gave her an +equal portion of trinkets, and painted the tawny checks of all three +of them with vermilion,--a ceremony which among the Shoshonees is +emblematic of peace. + +“After they had become composed, he informed them by signs of his wishes +to go to their camp, in order to see their chiefs and warriors; they +readily obeyed, and conducted the party along the same road down the +river. In this way they marched two miles, when they met a troop of +nearly sixty warriors, mounted on excellent horses, riding at full speed +toward them. As they advanced Captain Lewis put down his gun, and went +with the flag about fifty paces in advance. The chief, who with two +men was riding in front of the main body, spoke to the women, who +now explained that the party was composed of white men, and showed +exultingly the presents they had received. The three men immediately +leaped from their horses, came up to Captain Lewis, and embraced him +with great cordiality, putting their left arm over his right shoulder, +and clasping his back, applying at the same time their left cheek to +his, and frequently vociferating ah hi e! ah hi e! ‘I am much pleased, I +am much rejoiced.’ The whole body of warriors now came forward, and our +men received the caresses, and no small share of the grease and paint, +of their new friends. After this fraternal embrace, of which the motive +was much more agreeable than the manner, Captain Lewis lighted a pipe, +and offered it to the Indians, who had now seated themselves in a +circle around the party. But, before they would receive this mark of +friendship, they pulled off their moccasins: a custom, as we afterward +learned, which indicates the sacred sincerity of their professions +when they smoke with a stranger, and which imprecates on themselves +the misery of going barefoot forever if they prove faithless to their +words--a penalty by no means light for those who rove over the thorny +plains of this country. . . . + +“After smoking a few pipes, some trifling presents were distributed +among them, with which they seemed very much pleased, particularly with +the blue beads and the vermilion. Captain Lewis then stated to the chief +that the object of his visit was friendly, and should be explained as +soon as he reached their camp; and that, as the sun was oppressive, and +no water near, he wished to go there as soon as possible. They now put +on their moccasins, and their chief, whose name was Cameahwait, made +a short speech to the warriors. Captain Lewis then gave him the flag, +which he informed him was among white men the emblem of peace; and, now +that he had received it, was to be in future the bond of union between +them. The chief then moved on; our party followed him; and the rest of +the warriors, in a squadron, brought up the rear.” + +Arriving at the village, the ceremony of smoking the pipe of peace +was solemnly observed; and the women and children of the tribe were +permitted to gaze with wonder on the first white men they had ever seen. +The Indians were not much better provided with food than were their +half-famished visitors. But some cakes made of service-berries and +choke-berries dried in the sun were presented to the white men “on +which,” says Captain Lewis, “we made a hearty meal.” Later in the day, +however, an Indian invited Captain Lewis into his wigwam and treated +him to a small morsel of boiled antelope and a piece of fresh salmon +roasted. This was the first salmon he had seen, and the captain was now +assured that he was on the headwaters of the Columbia. This stream was +what is now known as the Lemhi River. The water was clear and limpid, +flowing down a bed of gravel; its general direction was a little north +of west. The journal says:-- + +“The chief informed him that this stream discharged, at the distance +of half a day’s march, into another (Salmon River) of twice its size, +coming from the southwest; but added, on further inquiry, that there +was scarcely more timber below the junction of those rivers than in +this neighborhood, and that the river was rocky, rapid, and so closely +confined between high mountains that it was impossible to pass down it +either by land or water to the great lake (Pacific Ocean), where, as he +had understood, the white men lived. + +“This information was far from being satisfactory, for there was no +timber here that would answer the purpose of building canoes,--indeed +not more than just sufficient for fuel; and even that consisted of +the narrow-leaved cottonwood, the red and the narrow-leaved willow, +chokecherry, service-berry, and a few currant bushes, such as are common +on the Missouri. The prospect of going on by land is more pleasant, for +there are great numbers of horses feeding in every direction round the +camp, which will enable us to transport our stores, if necessary, over +the mountains.” + +While Captain Lewis was thus engaged, his companions in the canoes were +slowly and laboriously ascending the river on the other side of the +divide. The character of the stream was much as it had been for several +days, and the men were in the water three-fourths of the time, dragging +the boats over the shoals. They had but little success in killing game, +but caught, as they had done for some days before, numbers of fine +trout. + +“August 14. In order to give time for the boats to reach the forks of +Jefferson River,” proceeds the narrative, “Captain Lewis determined to +remain where he was, and obtain all the information he could collect +in regard to the country. Having nothing to eat but a little flour and +parched meal, with the berries of the Indians, he sent out Drewyer and +Shields, who borrowed horses from the natives, to hunt for a few hours. +About the same time the young warriors set out for the same purpose. +There are but few elk or black tailed deer in this neighborhood; and as +the common red deer secrete themselves in the bushes when alarmed, they +are soon safe from the arrows, which are but feeble weapons against any +animals which the huntsmen cannot previously run down with their horses. +The chief game of the Shoshonees, therefore, is the antelope, which, +when pursued, retreats to the open plains, where the horses have full +room for the chase. But such is its extraordinary fleetness and wind, +that a single horse has no possible chance of outrunning it or tiring it +down, and the hunters are therefore obliged to resort to stratagem. + +“About twenty Indians, mounted on fine horses, and armed with bows +and arrows, left the camp. In a short time they descried a herd of ten +antelope: they immediately separated into little squads of two or three, +and formed a scattered circle round the herd for five or six miles, +keeping at a wary distance, so as not to alarm them till they were +perfectly enclosed, and selecting, as far as possible, some commanding +eminence as a stand. Having gained their positions, a small party rode +towards the animals, and with wonderful dexterity the huntsmen preserved +their seats, and the horses their footing, as they ran at full speed +over the hills, down the steep ravines, and along the borders of the +precipices. They were soon outstripped by the antelopes, which, on +gaining the other extremity of the circle, were driven back and pursued +by the fresh hunters. They turned and flew, rather than ran, in another +direction; but there, too, they found new enemies. In this way they +were alternately pursued backward and forward, till at length, +notwithstanding the skill of the hunters, they all escaped and the +party, after running for two hours, returned without having caught +anything, and their horses foaming with sweat. This chase, the greater +part of which was seen from the camp, formed a beautiful scene; but to +the hunters it is exceedingly laborious, and so unproductive, even when +they are able to worry the animal down and shoot him, that forty or +fifty hunters will sometimes be engaged for half a day without obtaining +more than two or three antelope. + +“Soon after they returned, our two huntsmen came in with no better +success. Captain Lewis therefore made a little paste with the flour, and +the addition of some berries formed a very palatable repast. Having now +secured the good will of Cameahwait, Captain Lewis informed him of his +wish that he would speak to the warriors, and endeavor to engage them +to accompany him to the forks of Jefferson River; where by this time +another chief (Clark), with a large party of white men, was awaiting his +(Lewis’) return; that it would be necessary to take about thirty horses +to transport the merchandise; that they should be well rewarded for +their trouble; and that, when all the party should have reached the +Shoshonee camp, they would remain some time among them to trade for +horses, as well as concert plans for furnishing them in future with +regular supplies of merchandise. He readily consented to do so, and +after collecting the tribe together, he made a long harangue. In about +an hour and a half he returned, and told Captain Lewis that they would +be ready to accompany him in the morning.” + +But the Indians were suspicious and reluctant to take the word of the +white man. Captain Lewis, almost at his wits’ end, appealed to their +courage. He said that if they were afraid of being led into a trap, he +was sure that some among them were not afraid. + +“To doubt the courage of an Indian is to touch the tenderest string of +his mind, and the surest way to rouse him to any dangerous achievement. +Cameahwait instantly replied that he was not afraid to die, and mounting +his horse, for the third time harangued the warriors. He told them that +he was resolved to go if he went alone, or if he were sure of perishing; +that he hoped there were among those who heard him some who were not +afraid to die, and who would prove it by mounting their horses and +following him. This harangue produced an effect on six or eight only +of the warriors, who now joined their chief. With these Captain Lewis +smoked a pipe; and then, fearful of some change in their capricious +temper, set out immediately.” + +The party now retraced the steps so lately taken by Captain Lewis and +his men. On the second day out, one of the spies sent forward by the +Indians came madly galloping back, much to the alarm of the white men. +It proved, however, that the spy had returned to tell his comrades that +one of the white hunters (Drewyer) had killed a deer. An Indian riding +behind Captain Lewis, fearful that he should not get his share of +the spoil, jumped off the horse and ran for a mile at full speed. The +journal says:-- + +“Captain Lewis slackened his pace, and followed at a sufficient distance +to observe them. When they reached the place where Drewyer had thrown +out the intestines, they all dismounted in confusion and ran tumbling +over each other like famished dogs. Each tore away whatever part he +could, and instantly began to eat it. Some had the liver, some the +kidneys--in short, no part on which we are accustomed to look with +disgust escaped them. One of them, who had seized about nine feet of the +entrails, was chewing at one end, while with his hand he was diligently +clearing his way by discharging the contents at the other. It was indeed +impossible to see these wretches ravenously feeding on the filth of +animals, the blood streaming from their mouths, without deploring how +nearly the condition of savages approaches that of the brute creation. +Yet, though suffering with hunger, they did not attempt, as they might +have done, to take by force the whole deer, but contented themselves +with what had been thrown away by the hunter. Captain Lewis now had the +deer skinned, and after reserving a quarter of it gave the rest of the +animal to the chief, to be divided among the Indians, who immediately +devoured nearly the whole of it without cooking. They now went toward +the (Prairie) creek, where there was some brushwood to make a fire, and +found Drewyer, who had killed a second deer. The same struggle for the +entrails was renewed here, and on giving nearly the whole deer to the +Indians, they devoured it even to the soft part of the hoofs. A fire +being made, Captain Lewis had his breakfast, during which Drewyer +brought in a third deer. This too, after reserving one-quarter, was +given to the Indians, who now seemed completely satisfied and in good +humor.” + +They now approached the forks of the Jefferson, where they had expected +to meet Clark and his party with the canoes. Not seeing any signs of +them, the Lewis party were placed in a critical position. The Indians +were again alarmed and suspicious. Here Captain Clark’s journal says:-- + +“As they went on towards the point, Captain Lewis, perceiving how +critical his situation had become, resolved to attempt a stratagem, +which his present difficulty seemed completely to justify. Recollecting +the notes he had left at the point for us, he sent Drewyer for them with +an Indian, who witnessed his taking them from the pole. When they were +brought, Captain Lewis told Cameahwait that, on leaving his brother +chief at the place where the river issues from the mountains, it was +agreed that the boats should not be brought higher than the next forks +we should meet; but that, if the rapid water prevented the boats from +coming on as fast as they expected, his brother chief was to send a note +to the first forks above him, to let him know where they were: that this +note had been left this morning at the forks, and mentioned that +the canoes were just below the mountains, and coming up slowly in +consequence of the current. Captain Lewis added that he would stay at +the forks for his brother chief, but would send a man down the river; +and that if Cameahwait doubted what he said, one of their young men +could go with him, while he and the other two remained at the forks. +This story satisfied the chief and the greater part of the Indians; but +a few did not conceal their suspicions, observing that we told different +stories, and complaining that their chief exposed them to danger by +a mistaken confidence. Captain Lewis now wrote, by the light of some +willow-brush, a note to Captain Clark, which he gave to Drewyer, with +an order to use all possible expedition in descending the river, and +engaged an Indian to accompany him by the promise of a knife and some +beads. + +“At bedtime the chief and five others slept round the fire of +Captain Lewis, and the rest hid themselves in different parts of the +willow-brush to avoid the enemy, who, they feared, would attack them in +the night. Captain Lewis endeavored to assume a cheerfulness he did not +feel, to prevent the despondency of the savages. After conversing gayly +with them he retired to his mosquito-bier, by the side of which the +chief now placed himself. He lay down, yet slept but little, being +in fact scarcely less uneasy than his Indian companions. He was +apprehensive that, finding the ascent of the river impracticable, +Captain Clark might have stopped below Rattlesnake bluff, and the +messenger would not meet him. The consequence of disappointing the +Indians at this moment would most probably be that they would retire +and secrete themselves in the mountains, so as to prevent our having +an opportunity of recovering their confidence. They would also spread +a panic through all the neighboring Indians, and cut us off from the +supply of horses so useful and almost so essential to our success. +He was at the same time consoled by remembering that his hopes of +assistance rested on better foundations than their generosity--their +avarice and their curiosity. He had promised liberal exchanges for their +horses; but what was still more seductive, he had told them that one of +their countrywomen, who had been taken with the Minnetarees, accompanied +the party below; and one of the men had spread the report of our having +with us a man (York) perfectly black, whose hair was short and curled. +This last account had excited a great degree of curiosity, and they +seemed more desirous of seeing this monster than of obtaining the most +favorable barter for their horses.” + +On the following day, August 17, the two parties of explorers finally +met. Under that date the journal has this interesting entry:-- + +“Captain Lewis rose very early and despatched Drewyer and the Indian +down the river in quest of the boats. Shields was sent out at the same +time to hunt, while M’Neal prepared a breakfast out of the remainder of +the meat. Drewyer had been gone about two hours, and the Indians were +all anxiously waiting for some news, when an Indian, who had straggled +a short distance down the river, returned with a report that he had seen +the white men, who were only a short distance below, and were coming on. +The Indians were transported with joy, and the chief, in the warmth of +his satisfaction, renewed his embrace to Captain Lewis, who was quite +as much delighted as the Indians themselves. The report proved most +agreeably true. + +“On setting out at seven o’clock, Captain Clark, with Chaboneau and his +wife, walked on shore; but they had not gone more than a mile before +Captain Clark saw Sacajawea, who was with her husband one hundred yards +ahead, begin to dance and show every mark of the most extravagant joy, +turning round to him and pointing to several Indians, whom he now +saw advancing on horseback, sucking her fingers at the same time, to +indicate that they were of her native tribe. As they advanced, Captain +Clark discovered among them Drewyer dressed like an Indian, from whom he +learned the situation of the party. While the boats were performing the +circuit, he went toward the forks with the Indians, who, as they went +along, sang aloud with the greatest appearance of delight. + +“We soon drew near the camp, and just as we approached it a woman made +her way through the crowd toward Sacajawea; recognizing each other, they +embraced with the most tender affection. The meeting of these two young +women had in it something peculiarly touching, not only from the ardent +manner in which their feelings were expressed, but also from the real +interest of their situation. They had been companions in childhood; in +the war with the Minnetarees they had both been taken prisoners in the +same battle; they had shared and softened the rigors of their captivity +till one of them had escaped from their enemies with scarce a hope of +ever seeing her friend rescued from their hands. + +“While Sacajawea was renewing among the women the friendships of former +days, Captain Clark went on, and was received by Captain Lewis and +the chief, who, after the first embraces and salutations were over, +conducted him to a sort of circular tent or shade of willows. Here he +was seated on a white robe; and the chief immediately tied in his hair +six small shells resembling pearls, an ornament highly valued by these +people, who procure them in the course of trade from the seacoast. +The moccasins of the whole party were then taken off, and, after much +ceremony, the smoking began. After this the conference was to be opened; +and, glad of an opportunity of being able to converse more intelligibly, +Sacajawea was sent for: she came into the tent, sat down, and was +beginning to interpret, when in the person of Cameahwait she recognized +her brother. She instantly jumped up, and ran and embraced him, throwing +over him her blanket, and weeping profusely: the chief was himself +moved, though not in the same degree. After some conversation between +them she resumed her seat, and attempted to interpret for us; but +her new situation seemed to overpower her, and she was frequently +interrupted by her tears. After the council was finished, the +unfortunate woman learned that all her family were dead except two +brothers, one of whom was absent, and a son of her eldest sister, a +small boy, who was immediately adopted by her.” + +The two parties, Indian and white, now went into a conference, the white +chiefs explaining that it would be needful for their Indian friends +to collect all their horses and help to transport the goods of the +explorers over the Great Divide. The journal says:-- + +“The speech made a favorable impression. The chief, in reply, thanked +us for our expressions of friendship toward himself and his nation, and +declared their willingness to render us every service. He lamented that +it would be so long before they should be supplied with firearms, +but that till then they could subsist as they had heretofore done. He +concluded by saying that there were not horses enough here to transport +our goods, but that he would return to the village to-morrow, bring all +his own horses, and encourage his people to come over with theirs. +The conference being ended to our satisfaction, we now inquired of +Cameahwait what chiefs were among the party, and he pointed out two of +them. We then distributed our presents: to Cameahwait we gave a medal of +small size, with the likeness of President Jefferson, and on the reverse +a figure of hands clasped with a pipe and tomahawk; to this was added an +uniform coat, a shirt, a pair of scarlet leggings, a carrot (or twist) +of tobacco, and some small articles. Each of the other chiefs received a +small medal struck during the presidency of General Washington, a shirt, +handkerchief, leggings, knife, and some tobacco. Medals of the same sort +were also presented to two young warriors, who, though not chiefs, were +promising youths and very much respected in the tribe. These honorary +gifts were followed by presents of paint, moccasins, awls, knives, +beads, and looking-glasses. We also gave them all a plentiful meal of +Indian corn, of which the hull is taken off by being boiled in lye; as +this was the first they had ever tasted, they were very much pleased +with it. They had, indeed, abundant sources of surprise in all they +saw--the appearance of the men, their arms, their clothing, the canoes, +the strange looks of the negro, and the sagacity of our dog, all in turn +shared their admiration, which was raised to astonishment by a shot from +the air-gun. This operation was instantly considered ‘great medicine,’ +by which they, as well as the other Indians, mean something emanating +directly from the Great Spirit, or produced by his invisible and +incomprehensible agency. . . . + +“After the council was over we consulted as to our future operations. +The game did not promise to last here for many days; and this +circumstance combined with many others to induce our going on as soon as +possible. Our Indian information as to the state of the Columbia was of +a very alarming kind; and our first object was, of course, to ascertain +the practicability of descending it, of which the Indians discouraged +our expectations. It was therefore agreed that Captain Clark should set +off in the morning with eleven men, furnished, besides their arms, with +tools for making canoes: that he should take Chaboneau and his wife +to the camp of the Shoshonees, where he was to leave them, in order to +hasten the collection of horses; that he should then lead his men +down to the Columbia, and if he found it navigable, and the timber in +sufficient quantity, begin to build canoes. As soon as he had decided +as to the propriety of proceeding down the Columbia or across the +mountains, he was to send back one of the men with information of it to +Captain Lewis, who by that time would have brought up the whole +party, and the rest of the baggage, as far as the Shoshonee village. +Preparations were accordingly made at once to carry out the +arrangement. . . .” + +“In order to relieve the men of Captain Clark’s party from the heavy +weight of their arms, provisions, and tools, we exposed a few articles +to barter for horses, and soon obtained three very good ones, in +exchange for which we gave a uniform coat, a pair of leggings, a few +handkerchiefs, three knives, and some other small articles, the whole +of which did not, in the United States, cost more than twenty dollars; +a fourth was purchased by the men for an old checkered shirt, a pair +of old leggings, and a knife. The Indians seemed to be quite as well +pleased as ourselves at the bargain they had made. We now found that the +two inferior chiefs were somewhat displeased at not having received a +present equal to that given to the great chief, who appeared in a dress +so much finer than their own. To allay their discontent, we bestowed on +them two old coats, and promised them if they were active in assisting +us across the mountains they should have an additional present. This +treatment completely reconciled them, and the whole Indian party, except +two men and two women, set out in perfect good humor to return to their +home with Captain Clark.” + + + + +Chapter XIV -- Across the Great Divide + +Captain Clark had now left the water-shed of the Missouri behind him, +and was pressing on, over a broken, hilly country, to the lands from +which issue the tributaries of the Columbia. The Indian village which +Captain Lewis had previously visited had been removed two miles up the +stream on which it was situated, and was reached by Clark on August 20. +The party was very ceremoniously received by Chief Cameahwait, and +all hands began to explain to the white men the difficulties of the +situation. How to transport the canoes and baggage over the mountains +to some navigable stream leading into the Columbia was now the serious +problem. The Indian chief and his old men dwelt on the obstacles in the +way and argued that it was too late in the season to make the attempt. +They even urged the white men to stay with them until another spring, +when Indian guides would be furnished them to proceed on their journey +westward. + +On the twenty-first, Clark passed the junction of two streams, the +Salmon and the Lemhi, which is now the site of Salmon City, Idaho. As +Captain Lewis was the first white man who had seen these waters, +Clark gave to the combined water-course the name of Lewis’ River. The +mountains here assumed a formidable aspect, and the stream was too +narrow, rapid, and rock-bound to admit of navigation. The journal says +of Captain Clark:-- + +“He soon began to perceive that the Indian accounts had not been +exaggerated. At the distance of a mile he passed a small creek (on the +right), and the points of four mountains, which were rocky, and so high +that it seemed almost impossible to cross them with horses. The road lay +over the sharp fragments of rocks which had fallen from the mountains, +and were strewed in heaps for miles together; yet the horses, altogether +unshod, travelled across them as fast as the men, without detaining them +a moment. They passed two bold running streams, and reached the entrance +of a small river, where a few Indian families resided, who had not been +previously acquainted with the arrival of the whites; the guide was +behind, and the woods were so thick that we came upon them unobserved, +till at a very short distance. As soon as they saw us the women and +children fled in great consternation; the men offered us everything they +had--the fish on the scaffolds, the dried berries, and the collars of +elks’ tushes worn by the children. We took only a small quantity of the +food, and gave them in return some small articles which conduced very +much to pacify them. The guide now coming up, explained to them who we +were and the object of our visit, which seemed to relieve their fears; +still a number of the women and children did not recover from their +fright, but cried during our stay, which lasted about an hour. The +guide, whom we found a very intelligent, friendly old man, informed us +that up this river there was a road which led over the mountains to the +Missouri.” + +To add to their difficulties, game had almost entirely disappeared, and +the abundant fish in the river could not be caught for lack of proper +fishing-tackle. Timber from which canoes could be made, there was none, +and the rapids in the rivers were sharp and violent. With his Indian +guide and three men, Captain Clark now pressed on his route of survey, +leaving the remainder of his men behind to hunt and fish. He went down +the Salmon River about fifty-two miles, making his way as best he could +along its banks. Finding the way absolutely blocked for their purposes, +Captain Clark returned on the twenty-fifth of August and rejoined the +party that he had left behind. These had not been able to kill anything, +and for a time starvation stared them in the face. Under date of August +27, the journal says:-- + +“The men, who were engaged last night in mending their moccasins, all +except one, went out hunting, but no game was to be procured. One of the +men, however, killed a small salmon, and the Indians made a present of +another, on which the whole party made a very slight breakfast. These +Indians, to whom this life is familiar, seem contented, although they +depend for subsistence on the scanty productions of the fishery. But +our men, who are used to hardships, but have been accustomed to have +the first wants of nature regularly supplied, feel very sensibly their +wretched situation; their strength is wasting away; they begin to +express their apprehensions of being without food in a country perfectly +destitute of any means of supporting life, except a few fish. In the +course of the day an Indian brought into the camp five salmon, two of +which Captain Clark bought and made a supper for the party.” + +Two days later, Captain Clark and his men joined the main party, having +met the only repulse that was suffered by the expedition from first to +last. Eluding the vigilance of the Indians, caches, or hiding-places, +for the baggage were constructed, filled, and concealed, the work being +done after dark. The weather was now very cold, although August had +not passed. Ink froze in the pen during the night, and the meadows were +white with frost; but the days were warm, even hot. + +In the absence of Captain Clark, his colleague and party had been +visited by Cameahwait and about fifty of his band, with their women and +children. Captain Lewis’ journal says:-- + +“After they had camped near us and turned loose their horses, we called +a council of all the chiefs and warriors, and addressed them in a +speech. Additional presents were then distributed, particularly to +the two second chiefs, who had, agreeably to their promises, exerted +themselves in our favor. The council was then adjourned, and all the +Indians were treated with an abundant meal of boiled Indian corn and +beans. The poor wretches, who had no animal food and scarcely anything +but a few fish, had been almost starved, and received this new luxury +with great thankfulness. Out of compliment to the chief, we gave him +a few dried squashes, which we had brought from the Mandans, and he +declared it was the best food he had ever tasted except sugar, a small +lump of which he had received from his sister Sacajawea. He now declared +how happy they should all be to live in a country which produced so many +good things; and we told him that it would not be long before the white +men would put it in their power to live below the mountains, where they +might themselves cultivate all these kinds of food, instead of wandering +in the mountains. He appeared to be much pleased with this information, +and the whole party being now in excellent temper after their repast, we +began our purchase of horses. We soon obtained five very good ones, on +very reasonable terms--that is, by giving for each horse merchandise +which cost us originally about $6. We have again to admire the perfect +decency and propriety of the Indians; for though so numerous, they do +not attempt to crowd round our camp or take anything which they see +lying about, and whenever they borrow knives or kettles or any other +article from the men, they return them with great fidelity.” + +Captain Lewis anxiously wished to push on to meet Clark, who, as we +have seen, was then far down on the Salmon River. Lewis was still at +the forks of Jefferson River, it should be borne in mind; and their +objective point was the upper Shoshonee village on the Lemhi River, +across the divide. While on the way over the divide, Lewis was greatly +troubled by the freaks of the Indians, who, regardless of their +promises, would propose to return to the buffalo country on the eastern +side of the mountains. Learning that Cameahwait and his chiefs had sent +a messenger over to the Lemhi to notify the village to come and join an +expedition of this sort, Captain Lewis was dismayed. His journal says:-- + +“Alarmed at this new caprice of the Indians, which, if not counteracted, +threatened to leave ourselves and our baggage on the mountains, or +even if we reached the waters of the Columbia, to prevent our obtaining +horses to go on further, Captain Lewis immediately called the three +chiefs together. After smoking a pipe he asked them if they were men +of their word, and if we could rely on their promises. They readily +answered in the affirmative. He then asked if they had not agreed to +assist us in carrying our baggage over the mountains. To this they also +answered yes. ‘Why, then,’ said he, ‘have you requested your people +to meet us to-morrow where it will be impossible for us to trade for +horses, as you promised we should? If,’ he continued, ‘you had not +promised to help us in transporting our goods over the mountains, we +should not have attempted it, but have returned down the river; after +which no white men would ever have come into your country. If you wish +the whites to be your friends, to bring you arms, and to protect you +from your enemies, you should never promise what you do not mean +to perform. When I first met you, you doubted what I said, yet you +afterward saw that I told you the truth. How, therefore, can you doubt +what I now tell you? You see that I divide amongst you the meat which +my hunters kill, and I promise to give all who assist us a share of +whatever we have to eat. If, therefore, you intend to keep your promise, +send one of the young men immediately, to order the people to remain at +the village till we arrive.’ The two inferior chiefs then said that they +had wished to keep their word and to assist us; that they had not sent +for the people, but on the contrary had disapproved of that measure, +which was done wholly by the first chief. Cameahwait remained silent +for some time; at last he said that he knew he had done wrong, but that, +seeing his people all in want of provisions, he had wished to hasten +their departure for the country where their wants might be supplied. +He, however, now declared that, having passed his word, he would never +violate it, and counter-orders were immediately sent to the village by +a young man, to whom we gave a handkerchief in order to ensure despatch +and fidelity. . . . + +“This difficulty being now adjusted, our march was resumed with an +unusual degree of alacrity on the part of the Indians. We passed a spot +where, six years ago, the Shoshonees had suffered a very severe defeat +from the Minnetarees; and late in the evening we reached the upper part +of the cove, where the creek enters the mountains. The part of the cove +on the northeast side of the creek has lately been burned, most probably +as a signal on some occasion. Here we were joined by our hunters with a +single deer, which Captain Lewis gave, as a proof of his sincerity, +to the women and children, and remained supperless himself. As we came +along we observed several large hares, some ducks, and many of the cock +of the plains: in the low grounds of the cove were also considerable +quantities of wild onions.” + +Arriving at the Shoshonee village on the Lemhi, Captain Lewis found a +note from Captain Clark, sent back by a runner, informing him of +the difficulty and impossibility of a water route to the Columbia. +Cameahwait, being told that his white friends would now need twenty more +horses, said that he would do what he could to help them. The journal +here adds:-- + +“In order not to lose the present favorable moment, and to keep the +Indians as cheerful as possible, the violins were brought out and our +men danced, to the great diversion of the Indians. This mirth was the +more welcome because our situation was not precisely that which would +most dispose us to gayety; for we have only a little parched corn to +eat, and our means of subsistence or of success depend on the wavering +temper of the natives, who may change their minds to-morrow. . . . + +“The Shoshonees are a small tribe of the nation called the Snake +Indians, a vague appellation, which embraces at once the inhabitants of +the southern parts of the Rocky Mountains and of the plains on either +side. The Shoshonees with whom we now were amount to about one hundred +warriors, and three times that number of women and children. Within +their own recollection they formerly lived in the plains, but they have +been driven into the mountains by the Pahkees, or the roving Indians +of the Sascatchawan, and are now obliged to visit occasionally, and +by stealth, the country of their ancestors. Their lives, indeed, are +migratory. From the middle of May to the beginning of September they +reside on the headwaters of the Columbia, where they consider themselves +perfectly secure from the Pahkees, who have never yet found their way to +that retreat. During this time they subsist chiefly on salmon, and, as +that fish disappears on the approach of autumn, they are driven to seek +subsistence elsewhere. They then cross the ridge to the waters of the +Missouri, down which they proceed slowly and cautiously, till they are +joined near the Three Forks by other bands, either of their own nation +or of the Flatheads, with whom they associate against the common enemy. +Being now strong in numbers, they venture to hunt the buffalo in the +plains eastward of the mountains, near which they spend the winter, till +the return of the salmon invites them to the Columbia. But such is their +terror of the Pahkees, that, so long as they can obtain the scantiest +subsistence, they do not leave the interior of the mountains; and, as +soon as they have collected a large stock of dried meat, they again +retreat, thus alternately obtaining their food at the hazard of their +lives, and hiding themselves to consume it. + +“In this loose and wandering life they suffer the extremes of want; for +two thirds of the year they are forced to live in the mountains, passing +whole weeks without meat, and with nothing to eat but a few fish and +roots. Nor can anything be imagined more wretched than their condition +at the present time, when the salmon is fast retiring, when roots are +becoming scarce, and they have not yet acquired strength to hazard an +encounter with their enemies. So insensible are they, however, to these +calamities, that the Shoshonees are not only cheerful, but even gay; and +their character, which is more interesting than that of any Indians +we have seen, has in it much of the dignity of misfortune. In their +intercourse with strangers they are frank and communicative; in their +dealings they are perfectly fair; nor have we, during our stay with +them, had any reason to suspect that the display of all our new and +valuable wealth has tempted them into a single act of dishonesty. While +they have generally shared with us the little they possess, they have +always abstained from begging anything from us. With their liveliness +of temper, they are fond of gaudy dresses and all sorts of amusements, +particularly games of hazard; and, like most Indians, delight in +boasting of their warlike exploits, either real or fictitious. In their +conduct towards us they have been kind and obliging; and though on one +occasion they seemed willing to neglect us, yet we scarcely knew how to +blame the treatment by which we were to suffer, when we recollected how +few civilized chiefs would have hazarded the comforts or the subsistence +of their people for the sake of a few strangers. . . . . . . . . . + +“As war is the chief occupation, bravery is the first virtue among +the Shoshonees. None can hope to be distinguished without having given +proofs of it, nor can there be any preferment or influence among the +nation, without some warlike achievement. Those important events which +give reputation to a warrior, and entitle him to a new name, are: +killing a white (or grizzly) bear, stealing individually the horses +of the enemy, leading a party who happen to be successful either in +plundering horses or destroying the enemy, and lastly, scalping a +warrior. These acts seem of nearly equal dignity, but the last, that +of taking an enemy’s scalp, is an honor quite independent of the act of +vanquishing him. To kill your adversary is of no importance unless the +scalp is brought from the field of battle; were a warrior to slay any +number of his enemies in action, and others were to obtain the scalps +or first touch the dead, they would have all the honors, since they have +borne off the trophy. . . .” + +“The names of these Indians vary in the course of their life. Originally +given in childhood, from the mere necessity of distinguishing objects, +or from some accidental resemblance to external objects, the young +warrior is impatient to change it by some achievement of his own. Any +important event--the stealing of horses, the scalping of an enemy, or +the killing of a brown bear--entitles him at once to a new name, +which he then selects for himself, and it is confirmed by the nation. +Sometimes the two names subsist together; thus, the chief Cameahwait, +which means ‘One Who Never Walks,’ has the war-name of Tooettecone, or +‘Black Gun,’ which he acquired when he first signalized himself. As each +new action gives a warrior a right to change his name, many of them have +several in the course of their lives. To give to a friend one’s own name +is an act of high courtesy, and a pledge, like that of pulling off the +moccasin, of sincerity and hospitality. The chief in this way gave his +name to Captain Clark when he first arrived, and he was afterward known +among the Shoshonees by the name of Cameahwait.” + +On the thirtieth of August, the whole expedition being now reunited, and +a sufficient number of horses having been purchased of the Shoshonees, +the final start across the mountains was begun. The journal says: + +“The greater part of the band, who had delayed their journey on our +account, were also ready to depart. We took leave of the Shoshonees, +who set out on their visit to the Missouri at the same time that we, +accompanied by the old guide, his four sons, and another Indian, began +the descent of the Lemhi River, along the same road which Captain Clark +had previously pursued. After riding twelve miles we camped on the south +bank of this river, and as the hunters had brought in three deer early +in the morning, we did not feel the want of provisions.” + +Three days later, all the Indians, except the old guide, left them. +They now passed up Fish Creek, and finding no track leading over the +mountains they cut their way. Their journal says:-- + +“This we effected with much difficulty; the thickets of trees and brush +through which we were obliged to cut our way required great labor; the +road itself was over the steep and rocky sides of the hills, where the +horses could not move without danger of slipping down, while their +feet were bruised by the rocks and stumps of trees. Accustomed as these +animals were to this kind of life, they suffered severely; several of +them fell to some distance down the sides of the hills, some turned over +with the baggage, one was crippled, and two gave out, exhausted with +fatigue. After crossing the creek several times we at last made five +miles, with great fatigue and labor, and camped on the left side of the +creek in a small stony low ground. It was not, however, till after dark +that the whole party was collected; and then, as it rained and we had +killed nothing, we passed an uncomfortable night. The party had been +too busily occupied with the horses to make any hunting excursion; and +though, as we came along Fish Creek, we saw many beaver-dams, we saw +none of the animals themselves.” + +The Indian guide appears here to have lost his way; but, not dismayed, +he pushed on through a trackless wilderness, sometimes travelling on +the snow that now covered the mountains. On the fourth of September, the +party came upon a large encampment of Indians, who received them with +much ceremony. The journal says:-- + +“September 5, we assembled the chiefs and warriors, and informed them +who we were, and the purpose for which we had visited their country. All +this was, however, conveyed to them through so many different languages, +that it was not comprehended without difficulty. We therefore proceeded +to the more intelligible language of presents, and made four chiefs by +giving a medal and a small quantity of tobacco to each. We received in +turn from the principal chief a present consisting of the skins of a +blaireau (badger), an otter, and two antelopes, and were treated by +the women to some dried roots and berries. We then began to traffic for +horses, and succeeded in exchanging seven and purchasing eleven, for +which we gave a few articles of merchandise. + +“This encampment consists of thirty-three tents, in which were about +four hundred souls, among whom eighty were men. They are called +Ootlashoots, and represent themselves as one band of a nation called +Tushepaws, a numerous people of four hundred and fifty tents, residing +on the head-waters of the Missouri and Columbia rivers, and some of +them lower down the latter river. In person these Indians are stout, and +their complexion lighter than that common among Indians. The hair of +the men is worn in queues of otter skin, falling in front over the +shoulders. A shirt of dressed skin covers the body to the knee, and +over this is worn occasionally a robe. To these are added leggings and +moccasins. The women suffer their hair to fall in disorder over the face +and shoulders, and their chief article of covering is a long shirt of +skin, reaching down to the ankles, and tied round the waist. In other +respects, as also in the few ornaments which they possess, their +appearance is similar to that of the Shoshonees: there is, however, a +difference between the languages of these two people, which is still +farther increased by the very extraordinary pronunciation of the +Ootlashoots. Their words have all a remarkably guttural sound, and there +is nothing which seems to represent the tone of their speaking more +exactly than the clucking of a fowl or the noise of a parrot. This +peculiarity renders their voices scarcely audible, except at a short +distance; and, when many of them are talking, forms a strange confusion +of sounds. The common conversation that we overheard consisted of low, +guttural sounds, occasionally broken by a low word or two, after which +it would relapse, and could scarcely be distinguished. They seemed kind +and friendly, and willingly shared with us berries and roots, which +formed their sole stock of provisions. Their only wealth is their +horses, which are very fine, and so numerous that this party had with +them at least five hundred.” + +These Indians were on their way to join the other bands who were hunting +buffalo on the Jefferson River, across the Great Divide. They set out +the next morning, and the explorers resumed their toilsome journey, +travelling generally in a northwesterly direction and looking for a pass +across the Bitter Root Mountains. Very soon, all indications of game +disappeared, and, September 14, they were forced to kill a colt, their +stock of animal food being exhausted. They pressed on, however, through +a savage wilderness, having frequent need to recur to horse-flesh. Here +is an entry under date of September 18, in the journal: “We melted some +snow, and supped on a little portable soup, a few canisters of which, +with about twenty pounds’ weight of bear’s oil, are our only remaining +means of subsistence. Our guns are scarcely of any service, for there is +no living creature in these mountains, except a few small pheasants, +a small species of gray squirrel, and a blue bird of the vulture kind, +about the size of a turtle-dove, or jay. Even these are difficult to +shoot.” + +“A bold running creek,” up which Captain Clark passed on September 19, +was appropriately named by him “Hungry Creek,” as at that place they had +nothing to eat. But, at about six miles’ distance from the head of the +stream, “he fortunately found a horse, on which he breakfasted, and hung +the rest on a tree for the party in the rear.” This was one of the wild +horses, strayed from Indian bands, which they found in the wilderness, +too wild to be caught and used, but not too wild to shoot and eat. +Later, on the same day, this entry is made in the journal: + +“The road along the creek is a narrow rocky path near the borders +of very high precipices, from which a fall seems almost inevitable +destruction. One of our horses slipped and rolled over with his load +down the hillside, which was nearly perpendicular and strewed with large +irregular rocks, nearly one hundred yards, and did not stop till he fell +into the creek. We all expected he was killed, but to our astonishment, +on taking off his load he rose, seemed but little injured, and in twenty +minutes proceeded with his load. Having no other provision, we took some +portable soup, our only refreshment during the day. This abstinence, +joined with fatigue, has a visible effect on our health. The men are +growing weak and losing their flesh very fast; several are afflicted +with dysentery, and eruptions of the skin are very common.” + +Next day, the party descended the last of the Bitter Root range and +reached level country. They were at last over the Great Divide. Three +Indian boys were discovered hiding in the grass, in great alarm. Captain +Clark at once dismounted from his horse, and, making signs of amity, +went after the boys. He calmed their terrors, and, giving them some bits +of ribbon, sent them home. + +“Soon after the boys reached home, a man came out to meet the party, +with great caution; but he conducted them to a large tent in the +village, and all the inhabitants gathered round to view with a mixture +of fear and pleasure these wonderful strangers. The conductor now +informed Captain Clark, by signs, that the spacious tent was the +residence of the great chief, who had set out three days ago with all +the warriors to attack some of their enemies toward the southwest; that +he would not return before fifteen or eighteen days, and that in +the mean time there were only a few men left to guard the women and +children. They now set before them a small piece of buffalo-meat, some +dried salmon, berries, and several kinds of roots. Among these last is +one which is round, much like an onion in appearance, and sweet to the +taste. It is called quamash, and is eaten either in its natural state, +or boiled into a kind of soup, or made into a cake, which is then called +pasheco. After the long abstinence this was a sumptuous treat. They +returned the kindness of the people by a few small presents, and then +went on in company with one of the chiefs to a second village in the +same plain, at the distance of two miles. Here the party were treated +with great kindness, and passed the night. The hunters were sent out, +but, though they saw some tracks of deer, were not able to procure +anything.” + +The root which the Indians used in so many ways is now known as camas; +it is still much sought for by the Nez Perces and other wandering tribes +in the Northwest, and Camas Prairie, in that region, derives its name +from the much-sought-for vegetable. + +Captain Clark and his men stayed with these hospitable Indians several +days. The free use of wholesome food, to which he had not lately been +accustomed, made Clark very ill, and he contented himself with staying +in the Indian villages, of which there were two. These Indians called +themselves Chopunnish, or Pierced Noses; this latter name is now more +commonly rendered _Nez Perces_, the French voyageurs having given it that +translation into their own tongue. But these people, so far as known, +did not pierce their noses. After sending a man back on the trail to +notify Captain Lewis of his progress, Captain Clark went on to the +village of Chief Twisted-hair. Most of the women and children, +though notified of the coming of the white man, were so scared by +the appearance of the strangers that they fled to the woods. The men, +however, received them without fear and gave them a plentiful supply +of food. They were now on one of the upper branches of the Kooskooskee +River, near what is the site of Pierce City, county seat of Shoshonee +County, Idaho. The Indians endeavored, by means of signs, to explain to +their visitors the geography of the country beyond. + +“Among others, Twisted-hair drew a chart of the river on a white +elk-skin. According to this, the Kooskooskee forks (confluence of its +North fork) a few miles from this place; two days toward the south +is another and larger fork (confluence of Snake River), on which the +Shoshonee or Snake Indians fish; five days’ journey further is a large +river from the northwest (that is, the Columbia itself) into which +Clark’s River empties; from the mouth of that river (that is, confluence +of the Snake with the Columbia) to the falls is five days’ journey +further; on all the forks as well as on the main river great numbers of +Indians reside.” + +On the twenty-third of September, Captain Lewis and his party having +come up, the white men assembled the Indians and explained to them +where they came from and what was their errand across the continent. The +Indians appeared to be entirely satisfied, and they sold their visitors +as much provisions as their half-famished horses could carry. The +journal here says:-- + +“All around the village the women are busily employed in gathering and +dressing the pasheco-root, of which large quantities are heaped in piles +over the plain. We now felt severely the consequence of eating heartily +after our late privations. Captain Lewis and two of the men were taken +very ill last evening; to-day he could hardly sit on his horse, while +others were obliged to be put on horseback, and some, from extreme +weakness and pain, were forced to lie down alongside of the road for +some time. At sunset we reached the island where the hunters had been +left on the 22d. They had been unsuccessful, having killed only two deer +since that time, and two of them were very sick. A little below this +island is a larger one on which we camped, and administered Rush’s pills +to the sick.” + +The illness of the party continued for several days, and not much +progress was made down-stream. Having camped, on the twenty-seventh of +September, in the Kooskooskee River, at a place where plenty of good +timber was found, preparations for building five canoes were begun. From +this time to the fifth of October, all the men capable of labor were +employed in preparing the canoes. The health of the party gradually +recruited, though they still suffered severely from want of food; and, +as the hunters had but little success in procuring game, they were +obliged on the second to kill one of their horses. Indians from +different quarters frequently visited them, but all that could be +obtained from them was a little fish and some dried roots. This diet was +not only unnutritious, but in many cases it caused dysentery and nausea. + + + + +Chapter XV -- Down the Pacific Slope + +The early days of October were spent in making preparations for the +descent of the river,--the Kooskooskee. Here they made their canoes, and +they called their stopping-place Canoe Camp. This was at the junction +of the north fork of the river with the main stream; and all below that +point is called the Lower Kooskooskee, while that above is known as the +upper river. The latitude of the camp, according to the journal of the +explorers, was 46'0 34’ 56” north. Here they buried in a cache their +saddles, horse-gear, and a small supply of powder and musket balls for +possible emergencies. The Kooskooskee, it should be borne in mind, is +now better known as the Clearwater; it empties into the Snake River, and +that into the Columbia. As far as the explorers knew the water-course +down which they were to navigate, they called it Clark’s River, in honor +of Captain Clark. But modern geographers have displaced the name of that +eminent explorer and map-maker and have divided the stream, or streams, +with other nomenclature. + +On the eighth of October the party set out on their long water journey +in five canoes, one of which was a small craft intended to go on ahead +and pilot the way (which, of course, was unknown) for the four larger +ones, in which travelled the main party with their luggage. They met +with disaster very soon after their start, one of the canoes having +struck a rock, which made a hole in its side and caused the sinking +of the craft. Fortunately, no lives were lost, but the voyage was +interrupted. The party went ashore and did not resume their journey +until their luggage was dried and the canoe repaired. On the ninth, says +the journal:-- + +“The morning was as usual cool; but as the weather both yesterday and +to-day was cloudy, our merchandise dried but slowly. The boat, though +much injured, was repaired by ten o’clock so as to be perfectly fit for +service; but we were obliged to remain during the day till the articles +were sufficiently dry to be reloaded. The interval we employed in +purchasing fish for the voyage, and conversing with the Indians. In the +afternoon we were surprised at hearing that our old Shoshonee guide and +his son had left us and had been seen running up the river several miles +above. As he had never given any notice of his intention, nor had even +received his pay for guiding us, we could not imagine the cause of his +desertion; nor did he ever return to explain his conduct. We requested +the chief to send a horseman after him to request that he would return +and receive what we owed him. From this, however, he dissuaded us, and +said very frankly that his nation, the Chopunnish, would take from +the old man any presents that he might have on passing their camp. The +Indians came about our camp at night, and were very gay and good-humored +with the men. Among other exhibitions was that of a squaw who appeared +to be crazy. She sang in a wild, incoherent manner, and offered to the +spectators all the little articles she possessed, scarifying herself +in a horrid manner if anyone refused her present. She seemed to be an +object of pity among the Indians, who suffered her to do as she pleased +without interruption.” + +The river was full of rapids and very dangerous rocks and reefs, and +the voyagers were able to make only twenty miles a day for some distance +along the stream. At the confluence of the Kooskooskee and the Snake +River they camped for the night, near the present site of Lewiston, +Idaho. This city, first settled in May, 1861, and incorporated in 1863, +was named for Captain Lewis of our expedition. From this point the party +crossed over into the present State of Washington. Of their experience +at their camp here the journal says:-- + +“Our arrival soon attracted the attention of the Indians, who flocked in +all directions to see us. In the evening the Indian from the falls, whom +we had seen at Rugged rapid, joined us with his son in a small canoe, +and insisted on accompanying us to the falls. Being again reduced to +fish and roots, we made an experiment to vary our food by purchasing +a few dogs, and after having been accustomed to horse-flesh, felt no +disrelish for this new dish. The Chopunnish have great numbers of dogs, +which they employ for domestic purposes, but never eat; and our using +the flesh of that animal soon brought us into ridicule as dog-eaters.” + +When Fremont and his men crossed the continent to California, in 1842, +they ate the flesh of that species of marmot which we know as the +prairie-dog. Long afterwards, when Fremont was a candidate for the +office of President of the United States, this fact was recalled to the +minds of men, and the famous explorer was denounced as “a dog-eater.” + +The journal of the explorers gives this interesting account of the +Indians among whom they now found themselves:-- + +“The Chopunnish or Pierced-nose nation, who reside on the Kooskooskee +and Lewis’ (Snake) rivers, are in person stout, portly, well-looking +men; the women are small, with good features and generally handsome, +though the complexion of both sexes is darker than that of the +Tushepaws. In dress they resemble that nation, being fond of displaying +their ornaments. The buffalo or elk-skin robe decorated with beads; +sea-shells, chiefly mother-of-pearl, attached to an otter-skin collar +and hung in the hair, which falls in front in two cues; feathers, paints +of different kinds, principally white, green, and light blue, all of +which they find in their own country; these are the chief ornaments +they use. In the winter they wear a short skirt of dressed skins, long +painted leggings and moccasins, and a plait of twisted grass round the +neck. The dress of the women is more simple, consisting of a long shirt +of argalia (argali) or ibex (bighorn) skin, reaching down to the ankles, +without a girdle; to this are tied little pieces of brass, shells, and +other small articles; but the head is not at all ornamented. + +“The Chopunnish have very few amusements, for their life is painful +and laborious; all their exertions are necessary to earn even their +precarious subsistence. During the summer and autumn they are busily +occupied in fishing for salmon and collecting their winter store of +roots. In winter they hunt the deer on snow-shoes over the plains, and +toward spring cross the mountains to the Missouri for the purpose of +rafficking for buffalo-robe. The inconveniences of their comfortless +life are increased by frequent encounters with their enemies from the +west, who drive them over the mountains with the loss of their horses, +and sometimes the lives of many of the nation.” + +After making a short stage on their journey, October 11, the party +stopped to trade with the Indians, their stock of provisions being low. +They were able to purchase a quantity of salmon and seven dogs. They +saw here a novel kind of vapor bath which is thus described in the +journal:-- + +“While this traffic was going on we observed a vapor bath or +sweating-house, in a different form from that used on the frontier of +the United States or in the Rocky Mountains. It was a hollow square six +or eight feet deep, formed in the river bank by damming up with mud the +other three sides and covering the whole completely, except an aperture +about two feet wide at the top. The bathers descend by this hole, taking +with them a number of heated stones and jugs of water; after being +seated round the room they throw the water on the stones till the steam +becomes of a temperature sufficiently high for their purposes. The baths +of the Indians in the Rocky Mountains are of different sizes, the +most common being made of mud and sticks like an oven, but the mode of +raising the steam is exactly the same. Among both these nations it is +very uncommon for a man to bathe alone; he is generally accompanied +by one or sometimes several of his acquaintances; indeed, it is so +essentially a social amusement, that to decline going in to bathe when +invited by a friend is one of the highest indignities which can be +offered to him. The Indians on the frontier generally use a bath which +will accommodate only one person, formed of a wicker-work of willows +about four feet high, arched at the top, and covered with skins. In this +the patient sits, till by means of the heated stones and water he +has perspired sufficiently. Almost universally these baths are in the +neighborhood of running water, into which the Indians plunge immediately +on coming out of the vapor bath, and sometimes return again and subject +themselves to a second perspiration. This practice is, however, less +frequent among our neighboring nations than those to the westward. +This bath is employed either for pleasure or for health, and is used +indiscriminately for all kinds of diseases.” + +The expedition was now on the Snake River, making all possible speed +toward the Columbia, commonly known to the Indians as “The Great River.” + The stream was crowded with dangerous rapids, and sundry disasters were +met with by the way; thus, on the fourteenth of October, a high wind +blowing, one of the canoes was driven upon a rock sidewise and filled +with water. The men on board got out and dragged the canoe upon the +rock, where they held her above water. Another canoe, having been +unloaded, was sent to the relief of the shipwrecked men, who, after +being left on the rock for some time, were taken off without any other +loss than the bedding of two of them. But accidents like this delayed +the party, as they were forced to land and remain long enough to dry +the goods that had been exposed to the water. Several such incidents are +told in the journal of the explorers. Few Indians were to be seen along +the banks of the river, but occasionally the party came to a pile of +planks and timbers which were the materials from which were built the +houses of such Indians as came here in the fishing season to catch +a supply for the winter and for trading purposes. Occasionally, the +complete scarcity of fuel compelled the explorers to depart from their +general rule to avoid taking any Indian property without leave; and they +used some of these house materials for firewood, with the intent to pay +the rightful owners, if they should ever be found. On the sixteenth of +October, they met with a party of Indians, of whom the journal gives +this account:-- + +“After crossing by land we halted for dinner, and whilst we were eating +were visited by five Indians, who came up the river on foot in great +haste. We received them kindly, smoked with them, and gave them a piece +of tobacco to smoke with their tribe. On receiving the present they set +out to return, and continued running as fast as they could while they +remained in sight. Their curiosity had been excited by the accounts of +our two chiefs, who had gone on in order to apprise the tribes of our +approach and of our friendly disposition toward them. After dinner we +reloaded the canoes and proceeded. We soon passed a rapid opposite the +upper point of a sandy island on the left, which has a smaller island +near it. At three miles is a gravelly bar in the river; four miles +beyond this the Kimooenim (Snake) empties into the Columbia, and at its +mouth has an island just below a small rapid. + +“We halted above the point of junction, on the Kimooenim, to confer +with the Indians, who had collected in great numbers to receive us. On +landing we were met by our two chiefs, to whose good offices we were +indebted for this reception, and also the two Indians who had passed +us a few days since on horseback; one of whom appeared to be a man of +influence, and harangued the Indians on our arrival. After smoking with +the Indians, we formed a camp at the point where the two rivers unite, +near to which we found some driftwood, and were supplied by our two old +chiefs with the stalks of willows and some small bushes for fuel. + +“We had scarcely fixed the camp and got the fires prepared, when a chief +came from the Indian camp about a quarter of a mile up the Columbia, at +the head of nearly two hundred men. They formed a regular procession, +keeping time to the music, or, rather, noise of their drums, which +they accompanied with their voices; and as they advanced, they ranged +themselves in a semicircle around us, and continued singing for some +time. We then smoked with them all, and communicated, as well as we +could by signs, our friendly intentions towards every nation, and our +joy at finding ourselves surrounded by our children. After this we +proceeded to distribute presents among them, giving the principal chief +a large medal, a shirt, and a handkerchief; to the second chief, a medal +of a smaller size; and to a third, who had come down from some of the +upper villages, a small medal and a handkerchief. This ceremony being +concluded, they left us; but in the course of the afternoon several of +them returned, and remained with us till a late hour. After they had +dispersed, we proceeded to purchase provisions, and were enabled to +collect seven dogs, to which some of the Indians added small presents of +fish, and one of them gave us twenty pounds of fat dried horse-flesh.” + +The explorers were still in the country which is now the State of +Washington, at a point where the counties of Franklin, Yakima, and Walla +Walla come together, at the junction of the Snake and the Columbia. We +quote now from the journal:-- + +“From the point of junction the country is a continued plain, low near +the water, from which it rises gradually, and the only elevation to be +seen is a range of high country running from northeast to southwest, +where it joins a range of mountains from the southwest, and is on the +opposite side about two miles from the Columbia. There is on this plain +no tree, and scarcely any shrubs, except a few willow-bushes; even of +smaller plants there is not much more than the prickly-pear, which is +in great abundance, and is even more thorny and troublesome than any +we have yet seen. During this time the principal chief came down with +several of his warriors, and smoked with us. We were also visited by +several men and women, who offered dogs and fish for sale; but as +the fish was out of season, and at present abundant in the river, we +contented ourselves with purchasing all the dogs we could obtain. + +“The nation among which we now are call themselves Sokulks; with them +are united a few of another nation, who reside on a western branch which +empties into the Columbia a few miles above the mouth of the latter +river, and whose name is Chimnapum. The languages of these two nations, +of each of which we obtained a vocabulary, differ but little from each +other, or from that of the Chopunnish who inhabit the Kooskooskee and +Lewis’ rivers. In their dress and general appearance they also much +resemble those nations; the men wearing a robe of deer- antelope-skin, +under which a few of them have a short leathern shirt. The most striking +difference is among the females, the Sokulk women being more inclined to +corpulency than any we have yet seen. Their stature is low, their faces +are broad, and their heads flattened in such a manner that the forehead +is in a straight line from the nose to the crown of the head. Their +eyes are of a dirty sable, their hair is coarse and black, and braided +without ornament of any kind. Instead of wearing, as do the Chopunnish, +long leathern shirts highly decorated with beads and shells, the Sokulk +women have no other covering but a truss or piece of leather tied round +the hips, and drawn tight between the legs. The ornaments usually worn +by both sexes are large blue or white beads, either pendant from their +ears, or round the neck, wrists, and arms; they have likewise bracelets +of brass, copper, and horn, and some trinkets of shells, fishbones, and +curious feathers. + +“The houses of the Sokulks are made of large mats of rushes, and are +generally of a square or oblong form, varying in length from fifteen to +sixty feet, and supported in the inside by poles or forks about six feet +high. The top is covered with mats, leaving a space of twelve or fifteen +inches the whole length of the house, for the purpose of admitting the +light and suffering the smoke to escape. The roof is nearly flat, which +seems to indicate that rains are not common in this open country; and +the house is not divided into apartments, the fire being in the middle +of the enclosure, and immediately under the bole in the roof. The +interior is ornamented with their nets, gigs, and other fishing-tackle, +as well as the bow of each inmate, and a large quiver of arrows, which +are headed with flint. + +“The Sokulks seem to be of a mild and peaceable disposition, and live in +a state of comparative happiness. The men, like those on the Kimooenim, +are said to content themselves with a single wife, with whom the +husband, we observe, shares the labors of procuring subsistence much +more than is common among savages. What may be considered an unequivocal +proof of their good disposition, is the great respect which is shown to +old age. Among other marks of it, we noticed in one of the houses an +old woman perfectly blind, and who, we were told, had lived more than +a hundred winters. In this state of decrepitude, she occupied the best +position in the house, seemed to be treated with great kindness, and +whatever she said was listened to with much attention. They are by no +means obtrusive; and as their fisheries supply them with a competent, if +not an abundant subsistence, although they receive thankfully whatever +we choose to give, they do not importune us by begging. Fish is, indeed, +their chief food, except roots and casual supplies of antelope, which +latter, to those who have only bows and arrows, must be very scanty. +This diet may be the direct or the remote cause of the chief disorder +which prevails among them, as well as among the Flatheads on the +Kooskooskee and Lewis’ rivers. With all these Indians a bad soreness +of the eyes is a very common disorder, which is suffered to ripen by +neglect, till many are deprived of one of their eyes, and some have +totally lost the use of both. This dreadful calamity may reasonably, we +think, be imputed to the constant reflection of the sun on the waters, +where they are constantly fishing in the spring, summer, and fall, and +during the rest of the year on the snows of a country which affords no +object to relieve the sight. + +“Among the Sokulks, indeed among all the tribes whose chief subsistence +is fish, we have observed that bad teeth are very general; some have the +teeth, particularly those of the upper jaw, worn down to the gums, and +many of both sexes, even of middle age, have lost them almost entirely. +This decay of the teeth is a circumstance very unusual among Indians, +either of the mountains or the plains, and seems peculiar to the +inhabitants of the Columbia. We cannot avoid regarding as one principal +cause of it the manner in which they eat their food. The roots are +swallowed as they are dug from the ground, frequently covered with a +gritty sand; so little idea have they that this is offensive that all +the roots they offer us for sale are in the same condition.” + +The explorers were now at the entrance of the mighty Columbia,--“The +Great River” of which they had heard so much from the Indians. We might +suppose that when they actually embarked upon the waters of the famous +stream, variously known as “The River of the North” and “The Oregon,” + the explorers would be touched with a little of the enthusiasm with +which they straddled the headwaters of the Missouri and gazed upon the +snow-covered peaks of the Rocky Mountains. But no such kindling of +the imagination seems to have been noted in their journal. In this +commonplace way, according to their own account, Captain Clark entered +upon the mighty Columbia:-- + +“In the course of the day (October 17, 1805), Captain Clark, in a small +canoe with two men, ascended the Columbia. At the distance of five miles +he passed an island in the middle of the river, at the head of which +was a small but not dangerous rapid. On the left bank, opposite to this +island, was a fishing-place consisting of three mat houses. Here were +great quantities of salmon drying on scaffolds; and, indeed, from the +mouth of the river upward, he saw immense numbers of dead salmon strewed +along the shore, or floating on the surface of the water, which is so +clear that the fish may be seen swimming at the depth of fifteen or +twenty feet. The Indians, who had collected on the banks to observe him, +now joined him in eighteen canoes, and accompanied him up the river. A +mile above the rapids he came to the lower point of an island, where the +course of the stream, which had been from its mouth north eighty-three +degrees west, now became due west. He proceeded in that direction, +until, observing three house’s of mats at a short distance, he landed +to visit them. On entering one of these houses, he found it crowded with +men, women, and children, who immediately provided a mat for him to sit +on, and one of the party undertook to prepare something to eat. He began +by bringing in a piece of pine wood that had drifted down the river, +which he split into small pieces with a wedge made of elkhorn, by means +of a mallet of stone curiously carved. The pieces of wood were then +laid on the fire, and several round stones placed upon them. One of the +squaws now brought a bucket of water, in which was a large salmon about +half dried, and, as the stones became heated, they were put into the +bucket till the salmon was sufficiently boiled for use. It was then +taken out, put on a platter of rushes neatly made, and laid before +Captain Clark, while another was boiled for each of his men. During +these preparations he smoked with such about him as would accept of +tobacco, but very few were desirous of smoking, a custom which is +not general among them, and chiefly used as a matter of form in great +ceremonies. + +“After eating the fish, which was of an excellent flavor, Captain Clark +set out and, at the distance of four miles from the last island, came to +the lower point of another near the left shore, where he halted at two +large mat-houses. Here, as at the three houses below, the inhabitants +were occupied in splitting and drying salmon. The multitudes of this +fish are almost inconceivable. The water is so clear that they can +readily be seen at the depth of fifteen or twenty feet; but at this +season they float in such quantities down the stream, and are drifted +ashore, that the Indians have only to collect, split, and dry them on +the scaffolds. Where they procure the timber of which these scaffolds +are composed he could not learn; but as there is nothing but +willow-bushes to be seen for a great distance from this place, it +rendered very probable what the Indians assured him by signs, that they +often used dried fish as fuel for the common occasions of cooking. From +this island they showed him the entrance of the western branch of the +Columbia, called the Tapteal, which, as far as could be seen, bears +nearly west and empties about eight miles above into the Columbia, the +general course of which is northwest.” + +The Tapteal, as the journal calls it, is now known as the Yakima, +a stream which has its source in the Cascade range of mountains, +Washington. The party tarried here long enough to secure from the +Indians a tolerably correct description of the river upon which they +were about to embark. One of the chiefs drew upon the skin-side of a +buffalo robe a sketch of the Columbia. And this was transferred to paper +and put into the journal. That volume adds here:-- + +“Having completed the purposes of our stay, we now began to lay in our +stores. Fish being out of season, we purchased forty dogs, for which we +gave small articles, such as bells, thimbles, knitting-needles, brass +wire, and a few beads, an exchange with which they all seemed perfectly +satisfied. These dogs, with six prairie-cocks killed this morning, +formed a plentiful supply for the present. We here left our guide +and the two young men who had accompanied him, two of the three being +unwilling to go any further, and the third being of no use, as he was +not acquainted with the river below. We therefore took no Indians but +our two chiefs, and resumed our journey in the presence of many of the +Sokulks, who came to witness our departure. The morning was cool and +fair, and the wind from the southeast.” + +They now began again to meet Indians who had never before seen white +men. On the nineteenth, says the journal:-- + +“The great chief, with two of his inferior chiefs and a third belonging +to a band on the river below, made us a visit at a very early hour. The +first of these was called Yelleppit,--a handsome, well-proportioned +man, about five feet eight inches high, and thirty-five years of age, +with a bold and dignified countenance; the rest were not distinguished +in their appearance. We smoked with them, and after making a speech, +gave a medal, a handkerchief, and a string of wampum to Yelleppit, but a +string of wampum only to the inferior chiefs. He requested us to remain +till the middle of the day, in order that all his nation might come and +see us; but we excused ourselves by telling him that on our return we +would spend two or three days with him. This conference detained us till +nine o’clock, by which time great numbers of the Indians had come down +to visit us. On leaving them we went on for eight miles, when we came to +an island near the left shore, which continued six miles in length. +At its lower extremity is a small island on which are five houses, at +present vacant, though the scaffolds of fish are as usual abundant. A +short distance below are two more islands, one of them near the middle +of the river. On this there were seven houses, but as soon as the +Indians, who were drying fish, saw us, they fled to their houses, and +not one of them appeared till we had passed; when they came out in +greater numbers than is usual for houses of that size, which induced us +to think that the inhabitants of the five lodges had been alarmed at our +approach and taken refuge with them. We were very desirous of landing in +order to relieve their apprehensions, but as there was a bad rapid along +the island all our care was necessary to prevent injury to the canoes. +At the foot of this rapid is a rock on the left shore, which is fourteen +miles from our camp of last night and resembles a hat in shape.” + +Later in the day, Captain Clark ascended a bluff on the river bank, +where he saw “a very high mountain covered with snow.” This was Mount +St. Helen’s, in Cowlitz County, Washington. The altitude of the peak is +nine thousand seven hundred and fifty feet. “Having arrived at the lower +ends of the rapids below the bluff before any of the rest of the party, +he sat down on a rock to wait for them, and, seeing a crane fly across +the river, shot it, and it fell near him. Several Indians had been +before this passing on the opposite side towards the rapids, and some +who were then nearly in front of him, being either alarmed at his +appearance or the report of the gun, fled to their houses. Captain Clark +was afraid that these people had not yet heard that the white men were +coming, and therefore, in order to allay their uneasiness before the +rest of the party should arrive, he got into the small canoe with three +men, rowed over towards the houses, and, while crossing, shot a duck, +which fell into the water. As he approached no person was to be seen +except three men in the plains, and they, too, fled as he came near the +shore. He landed in front of five houses close to each other, but no one +appeared, and the doors, which were of mat, were closed. He went towards +one of them with a pipe in his hand, and, pushing aside the mat, entered +the lodge, where he found thirty-two persons, chiefly men and women, +with a few children, all in the greatest consternation; some hanging +down their heads, others crying and wringing their hands. He went up +to them, and shook hands with each one in the most friendly manner; but +their apprehensions, which had for a moment subsided, revived on his +taking out a burning-glass, as there was no roof to the house, and +lighting his pipe: he then offered it to several of the men, and +distributed among the women and children some small trinkets which he +had with him, and gradually restored a degree of tranquillity among +them. + +“Leaving this house, and directing each of his men to visit a house, he +entered a second. Here he found the inmates more terrified than those in +the first; but he succeeded in pacifying them, and afterward went into +the other houses, where the men had been equally successful. Retiring +from the houses, he seated himself on a rock, and beckoned to some of +the men to come and smoke with him; but none of them ventured to +join him till the canoes arrived with the two chiefs, who immediately +explained our pacific intention towards them. Soon after the +interpreter’s wife (Sacajawea) landed, and her presence dissipated all +doubts of our being well-disposed, since in this country no woman +ever accompanies a war party: they therefore all came out, and seemed +perfectly reconciled; nor could we, indeed, blame them for their +terrors, which were perfectly natural. They told the two chiefs that +they knew we were not men, for they had seen us fall from the clouds. In +fact, unperceived by them, Captain Clark had shot the white crane, which +they had seen fall just before he appeared to their eyes: the duck which +he had killed also fell close by him; and as there were some clouds +flying over at the moment, they connected the fall of the birds with +his sudden appearance, and believed that he had himself actually dropped +from the clouds; considering the noise of the rifle, which they had +never heard before, the sound announcing so extraordinary an event. This +belief was strengthened, when, on entering the room, he brought down +fire from the heavens by means of his burning-glass. We soon convinced +them, however, that we were merely mortals; and after one of our chiefs +had explained our history and objects, we all smoked together in great +harmony.” + + + + +Chapter XVI -- Down the Columbia to Tidewater + +The voyagers were now drifting down the Columbia River, and they found +the way impeded by many rapids, some of them very dangerous. But their +skill in the handling of their canoes seems to have been equal to the +occasion, although they were sometimes compelled to go around the more +difficult rapids, making a short land portage. When they had travelled +about forty miles down the river, they landed opposite an island on +which were twenty-four houses of Indians; the people, known as the +Pishquitpahs, were engaged in drying fish. No sooner had the white men +landed than the Indians, to the number of one hundred, came across the +stream bringing with them some firewood, a most welcome present in that +treeless country. The visitors were entertained with presents and a long +smoke at the pipe of peace. So pleased were they with the music of two +violins played by Cruzatte and Gibson, of the exploring party, that they +remained by the fire of the white men all night. The news of the arrival +of the white strangers soon spread, and next morning about two hundred +more of the Indians assembled to gaze on them. Later in the day, having +gotten away from their numerous inquisitive visitors, the explorers +passed down-stream and landed on a small island to examine a curious +vault, in which were placed the remains of the dead of the tribe. The +journal says:-- + +“This place, in which the dead are deposited, is a building about sixty +feet long and twelve feet wide, formed by placing in the ground poles +or forks six feet high, across which a long pole is extended the whole +length of the structure; against this ridge-pole are placed broad boards +and pieces of canoes, in a slanting direction, so as to form a shed. +It stands cast and west, and neither of the extremities is closed. +On entering the western end we observed a number of bodies wrapped +carefully in leather robes, and arranged in rows on boards, which were +then covered with a mat. This was the part destined for those who had +recently died; a little further on, bones half decayed were scattered +about, and in the centre of the building was a large pile of them heaped +promiscuously on each other. At the eastern extremity was a mat, on +which twenty-one skulls were placed in a circular form; the mode of +interment being first to wrap the body in robes, then as it decays to +throw the bones into the heap, and place the skulls together. From +the different boards and pieces of canoes which form the vault were +suspended, on the inside, fishing-nets, baskets, wooden bowls, robes, +skins, trenchers, and trinkets of various kinds, obviously intended +as offerings of affection to deceased relatives. On the outside of the +vault were the skeletons of several horses, and great quantities of +their bones were in the neighborhood, which induced us to believe that +these animals were most probably sacrificed at the funeral rites of +their masters.” + +Just below this stand the party met Indians who traded with tribes +living near the great falls of the Columbia. That place they designated +as “Tum-tum,” a word that signifies the throbbing of the heart. One of +these Indians had a sailor’s jacket, and others had a blue blanket and +a scarlet blanket. These articles had found their way up the river from +white traders on the seashore. + +On the twenty-first of October the explorers discovered a considerable +stream which appeared to rise in the southeast and empty into the +Columbia on the left. To this stream they gave the name of Lepage +for Bastien Lepage, one of the voyageurs accompanying the party. The +watercourse, however, is now known as John Day’s River. John Day was +a mighty hunter and backwoodsman from Kentucky who went across the +continent, six years later, with a party bound for Astoria, on the +Columbia. From the rapids below the John Day River the Lewis and Clark +party caught their first sight of Mount Hood, a famous peak of the +Cascade range of mountains, looming up in the southwest, eleven thousand +two hundred and twenty-five feet high. Next day they passed the mouth +of another river entering the Columbia from the south and called by +the Indians the Towahnahiooks, but known to modern geography as the Des +Chutes, one of the largest southern tributaries of the Columbia. Five +miles below the mouth of this stream the party camped. Near them was a +party of Indians engaged in drying and packing salmon. Their method of +doing this is thus described:-- + +“The manner of doing this is by first opening the fish and exposing it +to the sun on scaffolds. When it is sufficiently dried it is pounded +between two stones till it is pulverized, and is then placed in a +basket about two feet long and one in diameter, neatly made of grass and +rushes, and lined with the skin of a salmon stretched and dried for the +purpose. Here the fish are pressed down as hard as possible, and the top +is covered with fish-skins, which are secured by cords through the holes +of the basket. These baskets are then placed in some dry situation, the +corded part upward, seven being usually placed as close as they can be +put together, and five on the top of these. The whole is then wrapped +up in mats, and made fast by cords, over which mats are again thrown. +Twelve of these baskets, each of which contains from ninety to one +hundred pounds, form a stack, which is left exposed till it is sent to +market. The fish thus preserved keep sound and sweet for several years, +and great quantities, they inform us, are sent to the Indians who live +below the falls, whence it finds its way to the whites who visit the +mouth of the Columbia. We observe, both near the lodges and on the rocks +in the river, great numbers of stacks of these pounded fish. Besides +fish, these people supplied us with filberts and berries, and we +purchased a dog for supper; but it was with much difficulty that we were +able to buy wood enough to cook it.” + +On the twenty-third the voyagers made the descent of the great falls +which had so long been an object of dread to them. The whole height of +the falls is thirty-seven feet, eight inches, in a distance of twelve +hundred yards. A portage of four hundred and fifty yards was made around +the first fall, which is twenty feet high, and perpendicular. By means +of lines the canoes were let down the rapids below. At the season of +high water the falls become mere rapids up which the salmon can pass. On +this point the journal says:-- + +“From the marks everywhere perceivable at the falls, it is obvious that +in high floods, which must be in the spring, the water below the falls +rises nearly to a level with that above them. Of this rise, which is +occasioned by some obstructions which we do not as yet know, the salmon +must avail themselves to pass up the river in such multitudes that this +fish is almost the only one caught in great abundance above the falls; +but below that place we observe the salmon-trout, and the heads of +a species of trout smaller than the salmon-trout, which is in great +quantities, and which they are now burying, to be used as their winter +food. A hole of any size being dug, the sides and bottom are lined with +straw, over which skins are laid; on these the fish, after being well +dried, are laid, covered with other skins, and the hole is closed with a +layer of earth twelve or fifteen inches deep. . . . + +“We saw no game except a sea-otter, which was shot in the narrow channel +as we were coming down, but we could not get it. Having, therefore, +scarcely any provisions, we purchased eight small fat dogs: a food +to which we were compelled to have recourse, as the Indians were very +unwilling to sell us any of their good fish, which they reserved for the +market below. Fortunately, however, habit had completely overcome the +repugnance which we felt at first at eating this animal, and the dog, if +not a favorite dish, was always an acceptable one. The meridian altitude +of to-day gave 45'0 42’ 57.3” north as the latitude of our camp. + +“On the beach, near the Indian huts, we observed two canoes of a +different shape and size from any which we had hitherto seen. One of +these we got by giving our smallest canoe a hatchet, and a few trinkets +to the owner, who said he had obtained it from a white man below the +falls in exchange for a horse. These canoes were very beautifully made: +wide in the middle, and tapering towards each end, with curious figures +carved on the bow. They were thin, but, being strengthened by crossbars +about an inch in diameter, tied with strong pieces of bark through +holes in the sides, were able to bear very heavy burdens, and seemed +calculated to live in the roughest water.” + +At this point the officers of the expedition observed signs of +uneasiness in the two friendly Indian chiefs who had thus far +accompanied them. They also heard rumors that the warlike Indians below +them were meditating an attack as the party went down. The journal +says:-- + +“Being at all times ready for any attempt of that sort, we were +not under greater apprehensions than usual at this intelligence. We +therefore only re-examined our arms, and increased the ammunition to one +hundred rounds. Our chiefs, who had not the same motives of confidence, +were by no means so much at their ease, and when at night they saw the +Indians leave us earlier than usual, their suspicions of an intended +attack were confirmed, and they were very much alarmed. + +“The Indians approached us with apparent caution, and behaved with more +than usual reserve. Our two chiefs, by whom these circumstances were not +observed, now told us that they wished to return home; that they could +be no longer of any service to us; that they could not understand the +language of the people below the falls; that those people formed a +different nation from their own; that the two people had been at war +with each other; and that as the Indians had expressed a resolution to +attack us, they would certainly kill them. We endeavored to quiet their +fears, and requested them to stay two nights longer, in which time we +would see the Indians below, and make a peace between the two nations. +They replied that they were anxious to return and see their horses. +We however insisted on their remaining with us, not only in hopes of +bringing about an accommodation between them and their enemies, but +because they might be able to detect any hostile designs against us, +and also assist us in passing the next falls, which are not far off, and +represented as very difficult. They at length agreed to stay with us two +nights longer.” + +The explorers now arrived at the next fall of the Columbia. Here was a +quiet basin, on the margin of which were three Indian huts. The journal +tells the rest of the story:-- + +“At the extremity of this basin stood a high black rock, which, rising +perpendicularly from the right shore, seemed to run wholly across the +river: so totally, indeed, did it appear to stop the passage, that +we could not see where the water escaped, except that the current was +seemingly drawn with more than usual velocity to the left of the rock, +where was heard a great roaring. We landed at the huts of the Indians, +who went with us to the top of the rock, from which we had a view of +all the difficulties of the channel. We were now no longer at a loss to +account for the rising of the river at the falls; for this tremendous +rock was seen stretching across the river, to meet the high hills on +the left shore, leaving a channel of only forty-five yards wide, through +which the whole body of the Columbia pressed its way. The water, thus +forced into so narrow a passage, was thrown into whirls, and swelled and +boiled in every part with the wildest agitation. But the alternative +of carrying the boats over this high rock was almost impossible in our +present situation; and as the chief danger seemed to be, not from any +obstructions in the channel, but from the great waves and whirlpools, we +resolved to attempt the passage, in the hope of being able, by dexterous +steering, to descend in safety. This we undertook, and with great care +were able to get through, to the astonishment of the Indians in the +huts we had just passed, who now collected to see us from the top of the +rock. The channel continued thus confined for the space of about half a +mile, when the rock ceased. We passed a single Indian hut at the foot +of it, where the river again enlarges to the width of two hundred yards, +and at the distance of a mile and a half stopped to view a very bad +rapid; this is formed by two rocky islands which divide the channel, the +lower and larger of which is in the middle of the river. The appearance +of this place was so unpromising that we unloaded all the most valuable +articles, such as guns, ammunition, our papers, etc., and sent them by +land, with all the men that could not swim, to the extremity of these +rapids. We then descended with the canoes, two at a time; though the +canoes took in some water, we all went through safely; after which we +made two miles, stopped in a deep bend of the river toward the right, +and camped a little above a large village of twenty-one houses. Here +we landed; and as it was late before all the canoes joined us, we were +obliged to remain this evening, the difficulties of the navigation +having permitted us to make only six miles.” + +They were then among the Echeloots, a tribe of the Upper Chinooks, now +nearly extinct. The white men were much interested in the houses of +these people, which, their journal set forth, were “the first wooden +buildings seen since leaving the Illinois country.” This is the manner +of their construction:-- + +“A large hole, twenty feet wide and thirty in length, was dug to the +depth of six feet; the sides of which were lined with split pieces of +timber rising just above the surface of the ground, and smoothed to the +same width by burning, or by being shaved with small iron axes. These +timbers were secured in their erect position by a pole stretched along +the side of the building near the eaves, and supported on a strong +post fixed at each corner. The timbers at the gable ends rose gradually +higher, the middle pieces being the broadest. At the top of these was a +sort of semicircle, made to receive a ridge-pole the whole length of the +house, propped by an additional post in the middle, and forming the top +of the roof. From this ridge-pole to the eaves of the house were placed +a number of small poles or rafters, secured at each end by fibres of the +cedar. On these poles, which were connected by small transverse bars +of wood, was laid a covering of white cedar, or arbor vitae, kept on by +strands of cedar fibres; but a small space along the whole length of +the ridge-pole was left uncovered, for the purpose of light, and of +permitting the smoke to pass out. The roof, thus formed, had a +descent about equal to that common among us, and near the eaves it was +perforated with a number of small holes, made, most probably, for the +discharge of arrows in case of an attack. The only entrance was by a +small door at the gable end, cut out of the middle piece of timber, +twenty-nine and a half inches high, fourteen inches broad, and reaching +only eighteen inches above the earth. Before this hole is hung a mat; on +pushing it aside and crawling through, the descent is by a small wooden +ladder, made in the form of those used among us. One-half of the inside +is used as a place of deposit for dried fish, of which large quantities +are stored away, and with a few baskets of berries form the only +family provisions; the other half, adjoining the door, remains for the +accommodation of the family. On each side are arranged near the walls +small beds of mats placed on little scaffolds or bedsteads, raised from +eighteen inches to three feet from the ground; and in the middle of the +vacant space is the fire, or sometimes two or three fires, when, as is +usually the case, the house contains three families.” + +Houses very like these are built by the Ahts or Nootkas, a tribe of +Indians inhabiting parts of Vancouver Island and the adjacent mainland. +A Nootka calls his house an ourt. + +The good offices of Lewis and Clark, who were always ready to make +peace between hostile tribes, were again successful here. The Echeloots +received the white men with much kindness, invited them to their houses, +and returned their visits after the explorers had camped. Lewis and +Clark told the Echeloot chiefs that the war was destroying them and +their industries, bringing want and privation upon them. The Indians +listened with attention to what was said, and after some talk they +agreed to make peace with their ancient enemies. Impressed with the +sincerity of this agreement, the captains of the expedition invested the +principal chief with a medal and some small articles of clothing. +The two faithful chiefs who had accompanied the white men from the +headwaters of the streams now bade farewell to their friends and allies, +the explorers. They bought horses of the Echeloots and returned to their +distant homes by land. + +Game here became more abundant, and on the twenty-sixth of October the +journal records the fact that they received from the Indians a present +of deer-meat, and on that day their hunters found plenty of tracks of +elk and deer in the mountains, and they brought in five deer, four very +large gray squirrels, and a grouse. Besides these delicacies, one of +the men killed in the river a salmon-trout which was fried in bear’s oil +and, according to the journal, “furnished a dish of a very delightful +flavor,” doubtless a pleasing change from the diet of dog’s flesh with +which they had so recently been regaled. + +Two of the Echeloot chiefs remained with the white men to guide them +on their way down the river. These were joined by seven others of their +tribe, to whom the explorers were kind and attentive. But the visitors +could not resist the temptation to pilfer from the goods exposed to dry +in the sun. Being checked in this sly business, they became ill-humored +and returned, angry, down the river. + +The explorers noticed here that the Indians flattened the heads of +males as well as females. Higher up the river, only the women and female +children had flat heads. The custom of artificially flattening the heads +of both men and women, in infancy, was formerly practised by nearly all +the tribes of the Chinook family along the Columbia River. Various means +are used to accomplish this purpose, the most common and most cruel +being to bind a flat board on the forehead of an infant in such a way +that it presses on the skull and forces the forehead up on to the top of +the head. As a man whose head has been flattened in infancy grows older, +the deformity partly disappears; but the flatness of the head is always +regarded as a tribal badge of great merit. + +“On the morning of the twenty-eighth,” says the journal, having dried +our goods, we were about setting out, when three canoes came from above +to visit us, and at the same time two others from below arrived for the +same purpose. Among these last was an Indian who wore his hair in a +que, and had on a round hat and a sailor’s jacket, which he said he had +obtained from the people below the great rapids, who bought them from +the whites. This interview detained us till nine o’clock, when we +proceeded down the river, which is now bordered with cliffs of loose +dark colored rocks about ninety feet high, with a thin covering of pines +and other small trees. At the distance of four miles we reached a small +village of eight houses under some high rocks on the right with a small +creek on the opposite side of the river. + +“We landed and found the houses similar to those we had seen at the +great narrows; on entering one of them we saw a British musket, a +cutlass, and several brass tea-kettles, of which they seemed to be very +fond. There were figures of men, birds, and different animals, which +were cut and painted on the boards which form the sides of the room; +though the workmanship of these uncouth figures was very rough, they +were highly esteemed by the Indians as the finest frescos of more +civilized people. This tribe is called the Chilluckittequaw; their +language, though somewhat different from that of the Echeloots, has many +of the same words, and is sufficiently intelligible to the neighboring +Indians. We procured from them a vocabulary, and then, after buying five +small dogs, some dried berries, and a white bread or cake made of roots, +we left them. The wind, however, rose so high that we were obliged, +after going one mile, to land on the left side, opposite a rocky island, +and pass the day.” + +On the same day the white chiefs visited one of the most prominent of +the native houses built along the river. + +“This,” says the journal, “was the residence of the principal chief of +the Chilluckittequaw nation, who we found was the same between whom and +our two chiefs we had made a peace at the Echeloot village. He received +us, very kindly, and set before us pounded fish, filberts, nuts, the +berries of the sacacommis, and white bread made of roots. We gave, in +return, a bracelet of ribbon to each of the women of the house, with +which they were very much pleased. The chief had several articles, such +as scarlet and blue cloth, a sword, a jacket, and a hat, which must +have been procured from the whites, and on one side of the room were +two wide, split boards, placed together so as to make space for a rude +figure of a man cut and painted on them. On pointing to this, and asking +him what it meant, he said something, of which all that we understood +was ‘good,’ and then stepped up to the painting, and took out his bow +and quiver, which, with some other warlike instruments, were kept behind +it. + +“He then directed his wife to hand him his medicine-bag, from which he +drew out fourteen forefingers, which he told us had belonged to the same +number of his enemies, whom he had killed in fighting with the nations +to the southeast, in which direction he pointed; alluding, no doubt, to +the Snake Indians, the common enemy of the tribes on the Columbia. This +bag is usually about two feet in length, and contains roots, pounded +dirt, etc., which only the Indians know how to appreciate. It is +suspended in the middle of the lodge; and it is considered as a species +of sacrilege for any one but the owner to touch it. It is an object of +religious fear; and, from its supposed sanctity, is the chief place for +depositing their medals and more valuable articles. They have likewise +small bags, which they preserve in their great medicine-bag, from +whence they are taken, and worn around their waists and necks as amulets +against any real or imaginary evils. This was the first time we had been +apprised that the Indians ever carried from the field any other trophy +than the scalp. These fingers were shown with great exultation; and, +after an harangue, which we were left to presume was in praise of his +exploits, the chief carefully replaced them among the valuable contents +of his red medicine-bag. The inhabitants of this village being part +of the same nation with those of the village we had passed above, the +language of the two was the same, and their houses were of similar form +and materials, and calculated to contain about thirty souls. They were +unusually hospitable and good-humored, so that we gave to the place the +name of the Friendly village. We breakfasted here; and after purchasing +twelve dogs, four sacks of fish, and a few dried berries, proceeded on +our journey. The hills as we passed were high, with steep, rocky sides, +with pine and white oak, and an undergrowth of shrubs scattered over +them.” + +Leaving the Friendly village, the party went on their way down the +river. Four miles below they came to a small and rapid river which they +called the Cataract River, but which is now known as the Klikitat. The +rapids of the stream, according to the Indians, were so numerous that +salmon could not ascend it, and the Indians who lived along its banks +subsisted on what game they could kill with their bows and arrows and on +the berries which, in certain seasons, were plentiful. Again we notice +the purchase of dogs; this time only four were bought, and the party +proceeded on their way. That night, having travelled thirty-two miles, +they camped on the right bank of the river in what is now Skamania +County, Washington. Three huts were inhabited by a considerable number +of Indians, of whom the journal has this to say:-- + +“On our first arrival they seemed surprised, but not alarmed, and we +soon became intimate by means of smoking and our favorite entertainment +for the Indians, the violin. They gave us fruit, roots, and root-bread, +and we purchased from them three dogs. The houses of these people are +similar to those of the Indians above, and their language is the same; +their dress also, consisting of robes or skins of wolves, deer, elk, +and wildcat, is made nearly after the same model; their hair is worn in +plaits down each shoulder, and round their neck is put a strip of some +skin with the tail of the animal hanging down over the breast; like the +Indians above, they are fond of otter-skins, and give a great price for +them. We here saw the skin of a mountain sheep, which they say lives +among the rocks in the mountains; the skin was covered with white hair; +the wool was long, thick, and coarse, with long coarse hair on the top +of the neck and on the back, resembling somewhat the bristles of a goat. +Immediately behind the village is a pond, in which were great numbers of +small swan.” + +The “mountain sheep” mentioned here are not the bighorn of which we have +heard something in the earlier part of this narrative, but a species +of wild goat found among the Cascade Mountains. The “wildcat” above +referred to is probably that variety of lynx known in Canada and most +of the Northern States and the Pacific as the _loup-cervier_, or +vulgarly, the “lucifee.” + +On the last day of October, the next of the more difficult rapids being +near, Captain Clark went ahead to examine the “shoot,” as the explorers +called the place which we know as the chute. In the thick wood that +bordered the river he found an ancient burial-place which he thus +describes:-- + +“It consists of eight vaults made of pine or cedar boards closely +connected, about eight feet square and six in height; the top covered +with wide boards sloping a little, so as to convey off the rain. The +direction of all of these vaults is east and west, the door being on +the eastern side, partially stopped with wide boards decorated with rude +pictures of men and other animals. On entering he found in some of them +four dead bodies, carefully wrapped in skins, tied with cords of grass +and bark, lying on a mat, in a direction east and west. The other vaults +contained only bones, which were in some of them piled to the height +of four feet. On the tops of the vaults, and on poles attached to them, +bung brass kettles and frying-pans with holes in their bottoms, baskets, +bowls, sea-shells, skins, pieces of cloth, hair, bags of trinkets and +small bones--the offerings of friendship or affection, which have +been saved by a pious veneration from the ferocity of war, or the more +dangerous temptations of individual gain. The whole of the walls as well +as the door were decorated with strange figures cut and painted on them; +and besides were several wooden images of men, some so old and decayed +as to have almost lost their shape, which were all placed against the +sides of the vaults. These images, as well as those in the houses we +have lately seen, do not appear to be at all the objects of adoration; +in this place they were most probably intended as resemblances of those +whose decease they indicate; when we observe them in houses, they occupy +the most conspicuous part, but are treated more like ornaments than +objects of worship.” + +The white men were visited at their camp by many Indians from the +villages farther up the stream. The journal says:-- + +“We had an opportunity of seeing to-day the hardihood of the Indians of +the neighboring village. One of the men shot a goose, which fell into +the river and was floating rapidly toward the great shoot, when an +Indian observing it plunged in after it. The whole mass of the waters of +the Columbia, just preparing to descend its narrow channel, carried the +animal down with great rapidity. The Indian followed it fearlessly +to within one hundred and fifty feet of the rocks, where he would +inevitably have been dashed to pieces; but seizing his prey he +turned round and swam ashore with great composure. We very willingly +relinquished our right to the bird in favor of the Indian who had thus +saved it at the imminent hazard of his life; he immediately set to work +and picked off about half the feathers, and then, without opening it, +ran a stick through it and carried it off to roast.” + +With many hair’s-breadth escapes, the expedition now passed through the +rapids or “great shoot.” The river here is one hundred and fifty yards +wide and the rapids are confined to an area four hundred yards long, +crowded with islands and rocky ledges. They found the Indians living +along the banks of the stream to be kindly disposed; but they had +learned, by their intercourse with tribes living below, to set a high +value on their wares. They asked high prices for anything they had for +sale. The journal says:-- + +“We cannot learn precisely the nature of the trade carried on by the +Indians with the inhabitants below. But as their knowledge of the whites +seems to be very imperfect, and as the only articles which they carry to +market, such as pounded fish, bear-grass, and roots, cannot be an object +of much foreign traffic, their intercourse appears to be an intermediate +trade with the natives near the mouth of the Columbia. From them these +people obtain, in exchange for their fish, roots, and bear-grass, blue +and white beads, copper tea-kettles, brass armbands, some scarlet and +blue robes, and a few articles of old European clothing. But their great +object is to obtain beads, an article which holds the first place in +their ideas of relative value, and to procure which they will sacrifice +their last article of clothing or last mouthful of food. Independently +of their fondness for them as an ornament, these beads are the medium of +trade, by which they obtain from the Indians still higher up the river, +robes, skins, chappelel bread, bear-grass, etc. Those Indians in +turn employ them to procure from the Indians in the Rocky Mountains, +bear-grass, pachico-roots, robes, etc. + +“These Indians are rather below the common size, with high cheek-bones; +their noses are pierced, and in full dress ornamented with a tapering +piece of white shell or wampum about two inches long. Their eyes are +exceedingly sore and weak; many of them have only a single eye, and +some are perfectly blind. Their teeth prematurely decay, and in frequent +instances are altogether worn away. Their general health, however, seems +to be good, the only disorder we have remarked being tumors in different +parts of the body.” + +The more difficult rapid was passed on the second day of November, the +luggage being sent down by land and the empty canoes taken down with +great care. The journal of that date says:-- + +“The rapid we have just passed is the last of all the descents of the +Columbia. At this place the first tidewater commences, and the river +in consequence widens immediately below the rapid. As we descended we +reached, at the distance of one mile from the rapid, a creek under +a bluff on the left; at three miles is the lower point of Strawberry +Island. To this immediately succeed three small islands covered with +wood. In the meadow to the right, at some distance from the hills, +stands a perpendicular rock about eight hundred feet high and four +hundred yards around the base. This we called Beacon Rock. Just below is +an Indian village of nine houses, situated between two small creeks. +At this village the river widens to nearly a mile in extent; the low +grounds become wider, and they as well as the mountains on each side are +covered with pine, spruce-pine, cottonwood, a species of ash, and some +alder. After being so long accustomed to the dreary nakedness of the +country above, the change is as grateful to the eye as it is useful in +supplying us with fuel. Four miles from the village is a point of +land on the right, where the hills become lower, but are still thickly +timbered. The river is now about two miles wide, the current smooth and +gentle, and the effect of the tide has been sensible since leaving the +rapid. Six miles lower is a rock rising from the middle of the river to +the height of one hundred feet, and about eighty yards at its base. +We continued six miles further, and halted for the night under a high +projecting rock on the left side of the river, opposite the point of a +large meadow. + +“The mountains, which, from the great shoot to this place, are high, +rugged, and thickly covered with timber, chiefly of the pine species, +here leave the river on each side; the river becomes two and one-half +miles in width; the low grounds are extensive and well supplied with +wood. The Indians whom we left at the portage passed us on their way +down the river, and seven others, who were descending in a canoe for the +purpose of trading below, camped with us. We had made from the foot of +the great shoot twenty-nine miles to-day. The ebb tide rose at our camp +about nine inches; the flood must rise much higher. We saw great numbers +of water-fowl, such as swan, geese, ducks of various kinds, gulls, +plovers, and the white and gray brant, of which last we killed +eighteen.” + + + + +Chapter XVII -- From Tidewater to the Sea + +Near the mouth of the river which the explorers named Quicksand River +(now Sandy), they met a party of fifteen Indians who had lately been +down to the mouth of the Columbia. These people told the white men that +they had seen three vessels at anchor below, and, as these must needs +be American, or European, the far-voyaging explorers were naturally +pleased. When they had camped that night, they received other visitors +of whom the journal makes mention:-- + +“A canoe soon after arrived from the village at the foot of the last +rapid, with an Indian and his family, consisting of a wife, three +children, and a woman who had been taken prisoner from the Snake +Indians, living on a river from the south, which we afterward found to +be the Multnomah. Sacajawea was immediately introduced to her, in hopes +that, being a Snake Indian, they might understand each other; but their +language was not sufficiently intelligible to permit them to converse +together. The Indian had a gun with a brass barrel and cock, which he +appeared to value highly.” + +The party had missed the Multnomah River in their way down, although +this is one of the three largest tributaries of the Columbia, John Day’s +River and the Des Chutes being the other two. A group of islands +near the mouth of the Multnomah hides it from the view of the passing +voyager. The stream is now more generally known as the Willamette, or +Wallamet. The large city of Portland, Oregon, is built on the river, +about twelve miles from its junction with the Columbia. The Indian +tribes along the banks of the Multnomah, or Willamette, subsisted +largely on the wappatoo, an eatable root, about the size of a hen’s egg +and closely resembling a potato. This root is much sought after by the +Indians and is eagerly bought by tribes living in regions where it is +not to be found. The party made great use of the wappatoo after they had +learned how well it served in place of bread. They bought here all that +the Indians could spare and then made their way down the river to an +open prairie where they camped for dinner and found many signs of elk +and deer. The journal says:-- + +“When we landed for dinner, a number of Indians from the last village +came down for the purpose, as we supposed, of paying us a friendly +visit, as they had put on their favorite dresses. In addition to their +usual covering they had scarlet and blue blankets, sailors’ jackets and +trousers, shirts and hats. They had all of them either war-axes, spears, +and bows and arrows, or muskets and pistols, with tin powder-flasks. +We smoked with them and endeavored to show them every attention, but we +soon found them very assuming and disagreeable companions. While we +were eating, they stole the pipe with which they were smoking, and +the greatcoat of one of the men. We immediately searched them all, and +discovered the coat stuffed under the root of a tree near where they +were sitting; but the pipe we could not recover. Finding us determined +not to suffer any imposition, and discontented with them, they showed +their displeasure in the only way which they dared, by returning in an +ill-humor to their village. + +“We then proceeded and soon met two canoes, with twelve men of the same +Skilloot nation, who were on their way from below. The larger of the +canoes was ornamented with the figure of a bear in the bow and a man in +the stern, both nearly as large as life, both made of painted wood +and very neatly fixed to the boat. In the same canoe were two Indians, +finely dressed and with round hats. This circumstance induced us to give +the name of Image-canoe to the large island, the lower end of which we +now passed at the distance of nine miles from its head.” + +Here they had their first full view of Mt. St. Helen’s, sometimes called +Mt. Ranier. The peak is in Washington and is 9,750 feet high. It has +a sugar-loaf, or conical, shape and is usually covered with snow. The +narrative of the expedition continues as follows:-- + +“The Skilloots that we passed to-day speak a language somewhat different +from that of the Echeloots or Chilluckittequaws near the long narrows. +Their dress, however, is similar, except that the Skilloots possess +more articles procured from the white traders; and there is this farther +difference between them, that the Skilloots, both males and females, +have the head flattened. Their principal food is fish, wappatoo roots, +and some elk and deer, in killing which with arrows they seem to be very +expert; for during the short time we remained at the village, three deer +were brought in. We also observed there a tame blaireau, (badger).” + +The journal, November 5, says:-- + +“Our choice of a camp had been very unfortunate; for on a sand-island +opposite us were immense numbers of geese, swan, ducks, and other wild +fowl, which during the whole night serenaded us with a confusion of +noises which completely prevented our sleeping. During the latter part +of the night it rained, and we therefore willingly left camp at an early +hour. We passed at three miles a small prairie, where the river is only +three-quarters of a mile in width, and soon after two houses on the +left, half a mile distant from each other; from one of which three men +came in a canoe merely to look at us, and having done so returned home. +At eight miles we came to the lower point of an island, separated from +the right side by a narrow channel, on which, a short distance above +the end of the island, is situated a large village. It is built more +compactly than the generality of the Indian villages, and the front +has fourteen houses, which are ranged for a quarter of a mile along the +channel. As soon as we were discovered seven canoes came out to see +us, and after some traffic, during which they seemed well disposed and +orderly, accompanied us a short distance below.” + +The explorers now met Indians of a different nation from those whom they +had seen before. The journal says:-- + +“These people seem to be of a different nation from those we have just +passed; they are low in stature, ill shaped, and all have their heads +flattened. They call themselves Wahkiacum, and their language differs +from that of the tribes above, with whom they trade for wappatoo-roots. +The houses are built in a different style, being raised entirely above +ground, with the caves about five feet high and the door at the corner. +Near the end, opposite this door, is a single fireplace, round which are +the beds, raised four feet from the floor of earth; over the fire +are hung the fresh fish, which, when dried, are stowed away with the +wappatoo-roots under the beds. The dress of the men is like that of the +people above, but the women are clad in a peculiar manner, the robe not +reaching lower than the hip, and the body being covered in cold weather +by a sort of corset of fur, curiously plaited and reaching from the arms +to the hip; added to this is a sort of petticoat, or rather tissue of +white cedar bark, bruised or broken into small strands, and woven into +a girdle by several cords of the same material. Being tied round the +middle, these strands hang down as low as the knee in front, and to the +mid-leg behind; they are of sufficient thickness to answer the purpose +of concealment whilst the female stands in an erect position, but in any +other attitude form but a very ineffectual defence. Sometimes the +tissue is strings of silk-grass, twisted and knotted at the end. After +remaining with them about an hour, we proceeded down the channel with an +Indian dressed in a sailor’s jacket for our pilot, and on reaching the +main channel were visited by some Indians who have a temporary residence +on a marshy island in the middle of the river, where is a great +abundance of water-fowl.” + +The tribe of Indians known as the Wahkiacums has entirely disappeared; +but the name survives as that of one of the counties of Washington +bordering on the Columbia. Wahkiacum is the county lying next west of +Cowlitz. When the explorers passed down the river under the piloting of +their Indian friend wearing a sailor’s jacket, they were in a thick fog. +This cleared away and a sight greeted their joyful vision. Their story +says:-- + +“At a distance of twenty miles from our camp, we halted at a village of +Wahkiacums, consisting of seven ill-looking houses, built in the same +form with those above, and situated at the foot of the high hills on the +right, behind two small marshy islands. We merely stopped to purchase +some food and two beaver skins, and then proceeded. Opposite to these +islands the hills on the left retire, and the river widens into a kind +of bay, crowded with low islands, subject to be overflowed occasionally +by the tide. We had not gone far from this village when, the fog +suddenly clearing away, we were at last presented with the glorious +sight of the ocean--that ocean, the object of all our labors, the reward +of all our anxieties. This animating sight exhilarated the spirits of +all the party, who were still more delighted on hearing the distant +roar of the breakers. We went on with great cheerfulness along the high, +mountainous country which bordered the right bank: the shore, however, +was so bold and rocky, that we could not, until at a distance of +fourteen miles from the last village, find any spot fit for an +encampment. Having made during the day thirty-four miles, we now spread +our mats on the ground, and passed the night in the rain. Here we were +joined by our small canoe, which had been separated from us during the +fog this morning. Two Indians from the last village also accompanied us +to the camp; but, having detected them in stealing a knife, they were +sent off.” + +It is not very easy for us, who have lived comfortably at home, or who +have travelled only in luxurious railway-cars and handsomely equipped +steamers, to realize the joy and rapture with which these far-wandering +explorers hailed the sight of the sea,--the sea to which they had so +long been journeying, through deserts, mountain-passes, and tangled +wildernesses. In his diary Captain Clark thus sets down some indication +of his joy on that memorable day, November 8, 1805: “Great joy in camp. +We are in view of the Ocean, this great Pacific Ocean which we have +been so long anxious to see, and the roaring or noise made by the waves +breaking on the rocky shores (as I suppose) may be heard distinctly.” + Later, same day, he says, “Ocean in view! O! the joy!” Fortunately, the +hardships to be undergone on the shores of the ocean were then unknown +and undreamed of; the travellers were thankful to see the sea, the +goal of all their hopes, the end of their long pilgrimage across the +continent. + +That night they camped near the mouth of the river in what is now known +as Gray’s Bay, on the north side of the river, in the southwest corner +of Wahkiacum County. Before they could reach their camping-place, +the water was so rough that some of the men had an unusual +experience,--seasickness. They passed a disagreeable night on a narrow, +rocky bench of land. Next day they say: + +“Fortunately for us, the tide did not rise as high as our camp during +the night; but being accompanied by high winds from the south, the +canoes, which we could not place beyond its reach, were filled with +water, and were saved with much difficulty. Our position was very +uncomfortable, but as it was impossible to move from it, we waited for a +change of weather. It rained, however, during the whole day, and at two +o’clock in the afternoon the flood tide set in, accompanied by a high +wind from the south, which, about four o’clock, shifted to the southwest +and blew almost a gale directly from the sea. The immense waves now +broke over the place where we were camped; the large trees, some of them +five or six feet thick, which had lodged at the point, were drifted over +our camp, and the utmost vigilance of every man could scarcely save +our canoes from being crushed to pieces. We remained in the water, and +drenched with rain, during the rest of the day, our only food being +some dried fish and some rain-water which we caught. Yet, though wet +and cold, and some of them sick from using salt water, the men were +cheerful, and full of anxiety to see more of the ocean. The rain +continued all night.” + +This was the beginning of troubles. Next day, the wind having lulled, +the party set forth again, only to be beaten back and compelled to take +to the shore again. This was their experience for several days. For +example, under date of the eleventh the journal says:-- + +“The wind was still high from the southwest, and drove the waves against +the shore with great fury; the rain too fell in torrents, and not only +drenched us to the skin, but loosened the stones on the hillsides, +which then came rolling down upon us. In this comfortless situation we +remained all day, wet, cold, with nothing but dried fish to satisfy our +hunger; the canoes in one place at the mercy of the waves, the baggage +in another, and all the men scattered on floating logs, or sheltering +themselves in the crevices of the rocks and hillsides. A hunter was +despatched in hopes of finding some fresh meat; but the hills were so +steep, and so covered with undergrowth and fallen timber, that he could +not penetrate them, and he was forced to return.” + +And this is the record for the next day:-- + +“About three o’clock a tremendous gale of wind arose accompanied with +lightning, thunder, and hail: at six it lightened up for a short time, +but a violent rain soon began, and lasted through the day. During the +storm, one of our boats, secured by being sunk with great quantities of +stone, got loose, but, drifting against a rock, was recovered without +having received much injury. Our situation now became much more +dangerous, for the waves were driven with fury against the rocks +and trees, which till now had afforded us refuge: we therefore took +advantage of the low tide, and moved about half a mile round a point to +a small brook, which we had not observed before on account of the thick +bushes and driftwood which concealed its mouth. Here we were more safe, +but still cold and wet; our clothes and bedding rotten as well as wet, +our baggage at a distance, and the canoes, our only means of escape from +this place, at the mercy of the waves. Still, we continued to enjoy good +health, and even had the luxury of feasting on some salmon and three +salmon trout which we caught in the brook. Three of the men attempted to +go round a point in our small Indian canoe, but the high waves rendered +her quite unmanageable, these boats requiring the seamanship of the +natives to make them live in so rough a sea.” + +It should be borne in mind that the canoes of the explorers were poor +dug-outs, unfit to navigate the turbulent waters of the bay, and the men +were not so expert in that sort of seamanship as were the Indians whom +they, with envy, saw breasting the waves and making short voyages in the +midst of the storms. It continued to rain without any intermission, +and the waves dashed up among the floating logs of the camp in a very +distracting manner. The party now had nothing but dried fish to eat, +and it was with great difficulty that a fire could be built. On +the fifteenth of the month, Captain Lewis having found a better +camping-place near a sandy beach, they started to move their luggage +thither; but before they could get under way, a high wind from the +southwest sprung up and they were forced to remain. But the sun came out +and they were enabled to dry their stuff, much of which had been spoiled +by the rain which had prevailed for the past ten days. Their fish also +was no longer fit to eat, and they were indeed in poor case. Captain +Lewis was out on a prospecting trip, and the party set out and found a +beach through which a pleasant brook flowed to the river, making a very +good camping-place. At the mouth of this stream was an ancient Chinook +village, which, says the journal, “has at present no inhabitants but +fleas.” The adventurers were compelled to steer wide of all old Indian +villages, they were so infested with fleas. At times, so great was +the pest, the men were forced to take off all their clothing and soak +themselves and their garments in the river before they could be rid +of the insects. The site of their new camp was at the southeast end +of Baker’s Bay, sometimes called Haley’s Bay, a mile above a very high +point of rocks. On arriving at this place, the voyagers met with an +unpleasant experience of which the journal gives this account:-- + +“Here we met Shannon, who had been sent back to meet us by Captain +Lewis. The day Shannon left us in the canoe, he and Willard proceeded +till they met a party of twenty Indians, who, having never heard of us, +did not know where they (our men) came from; they, however, behaved with +so much civility, and seemed so anxious that the men should go with them +toward the sea, that their suspicions were excited, and they declined +going on. The Indians, however, would not leave them; the men being +confirmed in their suspicions, and fearful that if they went into the +woods to sleep they would be cut to pieces in the night, thought it best +to pass the night in the midst of the Indians. They therefore made a +fire, and after talking with them to a late hour, laid down with their +rifles under their heads. As they awoke that morning they found that +the Indians had stolen and concealed their guns. Having demanded them +in vain, Shannon seized a club, and was about assaulting one of the +Indians, whom he suspected as a thief, when another Indian began to +load a fowling-piece with the intention of shooting him. He therefore +stopped, and explained by signs that if they did not give up the guns +a large party would come down the river before the sun rose to such a +height, and put every one of them to death. Fortunately, Captain Lewis +and his party appeared at this time. The terrified Indians immediately +brought the guns, and five of them came on with Shannon. To these men we +declared that if ever any one of their nation stole anything from us, +he should be instantly shot. They reside to the north of this place, and +speak a language different from that of the people higher up the river. + +“It was now apparent that the sea was at all times too rough for us to +proceed further down the bay by water. We therefore landed, and having +chosen the best spot we could select, made our camp of boards from +the old (Chinook) village. We were now situated comfortably, and being +visited by four Wahkiacums with wappatoo-roots, were enabled to make an +agreeable addition to our food.” + +On the seventeenth Captain Lewis with a small party of his men coasted +the bay as far out as Cape Disappointment and some distance to the north +along the seacoast. Game was now plenty, and the camp was supplied with +ducks, geese, and venison. Bad weather again set in. The journal under +date of November 22 says:-- + +“It rained during the whole night, and about daylight a tremendous gale +of wind rose from the S.S.E., and continued through the day with great +violence. The sea ran so high that the water came into our camp, which +the rain prevents us from leaving. We purchased from the old squaw, for +armbands and rings, a few wappatoo-roots, on which we subsisted. They +are nearly equal in flavor to the Irish potato, and afford a very good +substitute for bread. The bad weather drove several Indians to our camp, +but they were still under the terrors of the threat which we made on +first seeing them, and behaved with the greatest decency. + +“The rain continued through the night, November 23, and the morning was +calm and cloudy. The hunters were sent out, and killed three deer, four +brant, and three ducks. Towards evening seven Clatsops came over in a +canoe, with two skins of the sea-otter. To this article they attached an +extravagant value; and their demands for it were so high, that we were +fearful it would too much reduce our small stock of merchandise, on +which we had to depend for subsistence on our return, to venture on +purchasing it. To ascertain, however, their ideas as to the value +of different objects, we offered for one of these skins a watch, a +handkerchief, an American dollar, and a bunch of red beads; but neither +the curious mechanism of the watch, nor even the red beads, could tempt +the owner: he refused the offer, but asked for tiacomoshack, or chief +beads, the most common sort of coarse blue-colored beads, the article +beyond all price in their estimation. Of these blue beads we had but +few, and therefore reserved them for more necessitous circumstances.” + +The officers of the expedition had hoped and expected to find here some +of the trading ships that were occasionally sent along the coast to +barter with the natives; but none were to be found. They were soon to +prepare for winter-quarters, and they still hoped that a trader might +appear in the spring before they set out on their homeward journey +across the continent. Very much they needed trinkets to deal with the +natives in exchange for, the needful articles of food on the route. But +(we may as well say here) no such relief ever appeared. It is strange +that President Jefferson, in the midst of his very minute orders and +preparations for the benefit of the explorers, did not think of sending +a relief ship to meet the party at the mouth of the Columbia. They would +have been saved a world of care, worry, and discomfort. But at that time +the European nations who held possessions on the Pacific coast were very +suspicious of the Americans, and possibly President Jefferson did not +like to risk rousing their animosity. + +The rain that now deluged the unhappy campers was so incessant that they +might well have thought that people should be web-footed to live in such +a watery region. In these later days, Oregon is sometimes known as “The +Web-foot State.” Captain Clark, in his diary, November 28, makes this +entry: “O! how disagreeable is our situation dureing this dreadfull +weather!” The gallant captain’s spelling was sometimes queer. Under that +date he adds:-- + +“We remained during the day in a situation the most cheerless and +uncomfortable. On this little neck of land we are exposed, with a +miserable covering which does not deserve the name of a shelter, to +the violence of the winds; all our bedding and stores, as well as +our bodies, are completely wet; our clothes are rotting with constant +exposure, and we have no food except the dried fish brought from the +falls, to which we are again reduced. The hunters all returned hungry +and drenched with rain, having seen neither deer nor elk, and the swan +and brant were too shy to be approached. At noon the wind shifted to the +northwest, and blew with such tremendous fury that many trees were blown +down near us. This gale lasted with short intervals during the whole +night.” + +Of course, in the midst of such violent storms, it was impossible to get +game, and the men were obliged to resort once more to a diet of +dried fish, This food caused much sickness in the camp, and it became +imperatively necessary that efforts should again be made to find game. +On the second of December, to their great joy an elk was killed, and +next day they had a feast. The journal says; + +“The wind was from the east and the morning fair; but, as if one whole +day of fine weather were not permitted, toward night it began to rain. +Even this transient glimpse of sunshine revived the spirits of the +party, who were still more pleased when the elk killed yesterday was +brought into camp. This was the first elk we had killed on the west side +of the Rocky Mountains, and condemned as we have been to the dried +fish, it formed a most nourishing food. After eating the marrow of the +shank-bones, the squaw chopped them fine, and by boiling extracted a +pint of grease, superior to the tallow itself of the animal. A canoe of +eight Indians, who were carrying down wappatoo-roots to trade with +the Clatsops, stopped at our camp; we bought a few roots for small +fish-hooks, and they then left us. Accustomed as we were to the sight, +we could not but view with admiration the wonderful dexterity with which +they guide their canoes over the most boisterous seas; for though the +waves were so high that before they had gone half a mile the canoe was +several times out of sight, they proceeded with the greatest calmness +and security. Two of the hunters who set out yesterday had lost their +way, and did not return till this evening. They had seen in their ramble +great signs of elk and had killed six, which they had butchered and left +at a great distance. A party was sent in the morning.” + +On the third of December Captain Clark carved on the trunk of a great +pine tree this inscription:-- + +“WM. CLARK DECEMBER 3D 1805 BY LAND FROM THE + +U. STATES IN 1804 & 5.” + + +A few days later, Captain Lewis took with him a small party and set out +to find a suitable spot on which to build their winter camp. He did not +return as soon as he was expected, and considerable uneasiness was felt +in camp on that account. But he came in safely. He brought good news; +they had discovered a river on the south side of the Columbia, not far +from their present encampment, where there were an abundance of elk and +a favorable place for a winter camp. Bad weather detained them until the +seventh of December, when a favorable change enabled them to proceed. +They made their way slowly and very cautiously down-stream, the tide +being against them. The narrative proceeds:-- + +“We at length turned a point, and found ourselves in a deep bay: here we +landed for breakfast, and were joined by the party sent out three days +ago to look for the six elk, killed by the Lewis party. They had lost +their way for a day and a half, and when they at last reached the place, +found the elk so much spoiled that they brought away nothing but the +skins of four of them. After breakfast we coasted round the bay, which +is about four miles across, and receives, besides several small creeks, +two rivers, called by the Indians, the one Kilhowanakel, the other +Netul. We named it Meriwether’s Bay, from the Christian name of Captain +Lewis, who was, no doubt, the first white man who had surveyed it. The +wind was high from the northeast, and in the middle of the day it rained +for two hours, and then cleared off. On reaching the south side of the +bay we ascended the Netul three miles, to the first point of high land +on its western bank, and formed our camp in a thick grove of lofty +pines, about two hundred yards from the water, and thirty feet above the +level of the high tides.” + + + + +Chapter XVIII -- Camping by the Pacific + +Next in importance to the building of a winter camp was the fixing of +a place where salt could be made. Salt is absolutely necessary for the +comfort of man, and the supply brought out from the United States by the +explorers was now nearly all gone. They were provided with kettles +in which sea-water could be boiled down and salt be made. It would be +needful to go to work at once, for the process of salt-making by boiling +in ordinary kettles is slow and tedious; not only must enough for +present uses be found, but a supply to last the party home again was +necessary. Accordingly, on the eighth of December the journal has this +entry to show what was to be done:-- + +“In order, therefore, to find a place for making salt, and to examine +the country further, Captain Clark set out with five men, and pursuing a +course S. 60'0 W., over a dividing ridge through thick pine timber, +much of which bad fallen, passed the beads of two small brooks. In the +neighborhood of these the land was swampy and overflowed, and they waded +knee-deep till they came to an open ridgy prairie, covered with the +plant known on our frontier by the name of sacacommis (bearberry). Here +is a creek about sixty yards wide and running toward Point Adams; they +passed it on a small raft. At this place they discovered a large herd of +elk, and after pursuing them for three miles over bad swamps and small +ponds, killed one of them. The agility with which the elk crossed the +swamps and bogs seems almost incredible; as we followed their track the +ground for a whole acre would shake at our tread and sometimes we sunk +to our hips without finding any bottom. Over the surface of these bogs +is a species of moss, among which are great numbers of cranberries; +and occasionally there rise from the swamp small steep knobs of earth, +thickly covered with pine and laurel. On one of these we halted at +night, but it was scarcely large enough to suffer us to lie clear of +the water, and had very little dry wood. We succeeded, however, in +collecting enough to make a fire; and having stretched the elk-skin to +keep off the rain, which still continued, slept till morning.” + +Next day the party were met by three Indians who had been fishing for +salmon, of which they had a goodly supply, and were now on their way +home to their village on the seacoast. They, invited Captain Clark and +his men to accompany them; and the white men accepted the invitation. +These were Clatsops. Their village consisted of twelve families living +in houses of split pine boards, the lower half of the house being +underground. By a small ladder in the middle of the house-front, the +visitors reached the floor, which was about four feet below the surface. +Two fires were burning in the middle of the room upon the earthen floor. +The beds were ranged around the room next to the wall, with spaces +beneath them for bags, baskets, and household articles. + +Captain Clark was received with much attention, clean mats were spread +for him, and a repast of fish, roots, and berries was set before him. +He noticed that the Clatsops were well dressed and clean, and that they +frequently washed their faces and hands, a ceremony, he remarked, that +is by no means frequent among other Indians. A high wind now prevailed, +and as the evening was stormy, Captain Clark resolved to stay all night +with his hospitable Clatsops. The narrative proceeds:-- + +“The men of the village now collected and began to gamble. The most +common game was one in which one of the company was banker, and played +against all the rest. He had a piece of bone, about the size of a large +bean, and having agreed with any individual as to the value of the +stake, would pass the bone from one hand to the other with great +dexterity, singing at the same time to divert the attention of his +adversary; then holding it in his hands, his antagonist was challenged +to guess in which of them the bone was, and lost or won as he pointed +to the right or wrong hand. To this game of hazard they abandoned +themselves with great ardor; sometimes everything they possess is +sacrificed to it; and this evening several of the Indians lost all +the beads which they had with them. This lasted for three hours; when, +Captain Clark appearing disposed to sleep, the man who had been most +attentive, and whose name was Cuskalah, spread two new mats near the +fire, ordered his wife to retire to her own bed, and the rest of the +company dispersed at the same time. Captain Clark then lay down, but +the violence with which the fleas attacked him did not leave his rest +unbroken.” + +Next morning, Captain Clark walked along the seashore, and he observed +that the Indians were walking up and down, examining the shore and the +margin of a creek that emptied here. The narrative says:-- + +“He was at a loss to understand their object till one of them came to +him, and explained that they were in search of any fish which might have +been thrown on shore and left by the tide, adding in English, ‘sturgeon +is very good.’ There is, indeed, every reason to believe that these +Clatsops depend for their subsistence, during the winter, chiefly on the +fish thus casually thrown on the coast. After amusing himself for some +time on the beach, he returned towards the village, and shot on his way +two brant. As he came near the village, one of the Indians asked him +to shoot a duck about thirty steps distant: he did so, and, having +accidentally shot off its head, the bird was brought to the village, +when all the Indians came round in astonishment. They examined the duck, +the musket, and the very small bullets, which were a hundred to the +pound, and then exclaimed, Clouch musque, waket, commatax musquet: Good +musket; do not understand this kind of musket. They now placed before +him their best roots, fish, and syrup, after which he attempted to +purchase a sea-otter skin with some red beads which he happened to have +about him; but they declined trading, as they valued none except blue or +white beads. He therefore bought nothing but a little berry-bread and a +few roots, in exchange for fish-hooks, and then set out to return by the +same route he had come. He was accompanied by Cuskalah and his brother +as far as the third creek, and then proceeded to the camp through a +heavy rain. The whole party had been occupied during his absence in +cutting down trees to make huts, and in hunting.” + +This was the occupation of all hands for several days, notwithstanding +the discomfort of the continual downpour. Many of the men were ill from +the effects of sleeping and living so constantly in water. Under date of +December 12, the journal has this entry:-- + +“We continued to work in the rain at our houses. In the evening there +arrived two canoes of Clatsops, among whom was a principal chief, called +Comowol. We gave him a medal and treated his companions with great +attention; after which we began to bargain for a small sea-otter skin, +some wappatoo-roots, and another species of root called shanataque. +We readily perceived that they were close dealers, stickled much for +trifles, and never closed the bargain until they thought they had the +advantage. The wappatoo is dear, as they themselves are obliged to give +a high price for it to the Indians above. Blue beads are the articles +most in request; the white occupy the next place in their estimation; +but they do not value much those of any other color. We succeeded at +last in purchasing their whole cargo for a few fish-hooks and a small +sack of Indian tobacco, which we had received from the Shoshonees.” + +The winter camp was made up of seven huts, and, although it was not so +carefully fortified as was the fort in the Mandan country (during the +previous winter), it was so arranged that intruders could be kept out +when necessary. For the roofs of these shelters they were provided with +“shakes” split out from a species of pine which they called “balsam +pine,” and which gave them boards, or puncheons, or shakes, ten feet +long and two feet wide, and not more than an inch and a half thick. By +the sixteenth of December their meat-house was finished, and their meat, +so much of which had been spoiled for lack of proper care, was cut up +in small pieces and hung under cover. They had been told by the Indians +that very little snow ever fell in that region, and the weather, +although very, very wet, was mild and usually free from frost. They did +have severe hailstorms and a few flurries of snow in December but the +rain was a continual cause of discomfort. Of the trading habits of the +Clatsops the journal has this to say:-- + +“Three Indians came in a canoe with mats, roots, and the berries of the +sacacommis. These people proceed with a dexterity and finesse in their +bargains which, if they have not learned it from their foreign visitors, +may show how nearly allied is the cunning of savages to the little arts +of traffic. They begin by asking double or treble the value of what they +have to sell, and lower their demand in proportion to the greater or +less degree of ardor or knowledge of the purchaser, who, with all his +management, is not able to procure the article for less than its real +value, which the Indians perfectly understand. Our chief medium of trade +consists of blue and white beads, files,--with which they sharpen their +tools,--fish-hooks, and tobacco; but of all these articles blue beads +and tobacco are the most esteemed.” + +But, although their surroundings were not of a sort to make one very +jolly, when Christmas came they observed the day as well as they could. +Here is what the journal says of the holiday:-- + +“We were awaked at daylight by a discharge of firearms, which was +followed by a song from the men, as a compliment to us on the return of +Christmas, which we have always been accustomed to observe as a day of +rejoicing. After breakfast we divided our remaining stock of tobacco, +which amounted to twelve carrots (hands), into two parts; one of which +we distributed among such of the party as make use of it, making a +present of a handkerchief to the others. The remainder of the day was +passed in good spirits, though there was nothing in our situation to +excite much gayety. The rain confined us to the house, and our only +luxuries in honor of the season were some poor elk, so much spoiled that +we ate it through sheer necessity, a few roots, and some spoiled pounded +fish. + +“The next day brought a continuation of rain, accompanied with thunder, +and a high wind from the southeast. We were therefore obliged to still +remain in our huts, and endeavored to dry our wet articles before the +fire. The fleas, which annoyed us near the portage of the Great Falls, +have taken such possession of our clothes that we are obliged to have a +regular search every day through our blankets as a necessary preliminary +to sleeping at night. These animals, indeed, are so numerous that they +are almost a calamity to the Indians of this country. When they have +once obtained the mastery of any house it is impossible to expel them, +and the Indians have frequently different houses, to which they resort +occasionally when the fleas have rendered their permanent residence +intolerable; yet, in spite of these precautions, every Indian is +constantly attended by multitudes of them, and no one comes into our +house without leaving behind him swarms of these tormenting insects.” + +Although the condition of the exploring party was low, the men did not +require very much to put them in good spirits. The important and happy +event of finishing their fort and the noting of good weather are thus +set forth in the journal under date of December 30:-- + +“Toward evening the hunters brought in four elk (which Drewyer had +killed), and after a long course of abstinence and miserable diet, we +had a most sumptuous supper of elk’s tongues and marrow. Besides this +agreeable repast, the state of the weather was quite exhilarating. It +had rained during the night, but in the morning, though the high wind +continued, we enjoyed the fairest and most pleasant weather since our +arrival; the sun having shone at intervals, and there being only +three showers in the course of the day. By sunset we had completed the +fortification, and now announced to the Indians that every day at that +hour the gates would be closed, and they must leave the fort and not +enter it till sunrise. The Wahkiacums who remained with us, and who were +very forward in their deportment, complied very reluctantly with this +order; but, being excluded from our houses, formed a camp near us. . . . + +“January 1, 1806. We were awaked at an early hour by the discharge of a +volley of small arms, to salute the new year. This was the only mode of +commemorating the day which our situation permitted; for, though we had +reason to be gayer than we were at Christmas, our only dainties were +boiled elk and wappatoo, enlivened by draughts of pure water. We were +visited by a few Clatsops, who came by water, bringing roots and berries +for sale. Among this nation we observed a man about twenty-five years +old, of a much lighter complexion than the Indians generally: his face +was even freckled, and his hair long, and of a colour inclining to red. +He was in habits and manners perfectly Indian; but, though he did not +speak a word of English, he seemed to understand more than the others +of his party; and, as we could obtain no account of his origin, we +concluded that one of his parents, at least, must have been white.” + +A novel addition to their bill of fare was fresh blubber, or fat, from a +stranded whale. Under date of January 3 the journal says:-- + +“At eleven o’clock we were visited by our neighbor, the Tia or chief, +Comowool, who is also called Coone, and six Clatsops. Besides roots +and berries, they brought for sale three dogs, and some fresh blubber. +Having been so long accustomed to live on the flesh of dogs, the greater +part of us have acquired a fondness for it, and our original aversion +for it is overcome, by reflecting that while we subsisted on that food +we were fatter, stronger, and in general enjoyed better health than at +any period since leaving the buffalo country, eastward of the mountains. +The blubber, which is esteemed by the Indians an excellent food, has +been obtained, they tell us, from their neighbors, the Killamucks, a +nation who live on the seacoast to the southeast, near one of whose +villages a whale had recently been thrown and foundered.” + +Five men had been sent out to form a camp on the seashore and go into +the manufacture of salt as expeditiously as possible. On the fifth of +January, two of them came into the fort bringing a gallon of salt, which +was decided to be “white, fine and very good,” and a very agreeable +addition to their food, which had been eaten perfectly fresh for some +weeks past. Captain Clark, however, said it was a “mere matter of +indifference” to him whether he had salt or not, but he hankered for +bread. Captain Lewis, on the other hand, said the lack of salt was a +great inconvenience; “the want of bread I consider trivial,” was his +dictum. It was estimated that the salt-makers could turn out three or +four quarts a day, and there was good prospect of an abundant supply +for present needs and for the homeward journey. An expedition to the +seashore was now planned, and the journal goes on to tell how they set +out:-- + +“The appearance of the whale seemed to be a matter of importance to all +the neighboring Indians, and as we might be able to procure some of it +for ourselves, or at least purchase blubber from the Indians, a small +parcel of merchandise was prepared, and a party of the men held in +readiness to set out in the morning. As soon as this resolution was +known, Chaboneau and his wife requested that they might be permitted +to accompany us. The poor woman stated very earnestly that she had +travelled a great way with us to see the great water, yet she had never +been down to the coast, and now that this monstrous fish was also to +be seen, it seemed hard that she should be permitted to see neither the +ocean nor the whale. So reasonable a request could not be denied; they +were therefore suffered to accompany Captain Clark, who, January 6th, +after an early breakfast, set out with twelve men in two canoes.” + +After a long and tedious trip, the camp of the saltmakers was reached, +and Captain Clark and his men went on to the remains of the whale, only +the skeleton being left by the rapacious and hungry Indians. The whale +had been stranded between two shore villages tenanted by the Killamucks, +as Captain Clark called them. They are now known as the Tillamook +Indians, and their name is preserved in Tillamook County, Oregon. The +white men found it difficult to secure much of the blubber, or the oil. +Although the Indians had large quantities of both, they sold it with +much reluctance. In Clark’s private diary is found this entry: “Small +as this stock (of oil and lubber) is I prize it highly; and thank +Providence for directing the whale to us; and think him more kind to +us than he was to Jonah, having sent this monster to be swallowed by us +instead of swallowing us as Jonah’s did.” While here, the party had a +startling experience, as the journal says:-- + +“Whilst smoking with the Indians, Captain Clark was surprised, about ten +o’clock, by a loud, shrill outcry from the opposite village, on hearing +which all the Indians immediately started up to cross the creek, and the +guide informed him that someone had been killed. On examination one +of the men (M’Neal) was discovered to be absent, and a guard (Sergeant +Pryor and four men) despatched, who met him crossing the creek in great +haste. An Indian belonging to another band, who happened to be with the +Killamucks that evening, had treated him with much kindness, and walked +arm in arm with him to a tent where our man found a Chinnook squaw, +who was an old acquaintance. From the conversation and manner of the +stranger, this woman discovered that his object was to murder the white +man for the sake of the few articles on his person; when he rose and +pressed our man to go to another tent where they would find something +better to eat, she held M’Neal by the blanket; not knowing her object, +he freed himself from her, and was going on with his pretended friend, +when she ran out and gave the shriek which brought the men of the +village over, and the stranger ran off before M’Neal knew what had +occasioned the alarm.” + +The “mighty hunter” of the Lewis and Clark expedition was Drewyer, whose +name has frequently been mentioned in these pages. Under date of January +12, the journal has this just tribute to the man:-- + +“Our meat is now becoming scarce; we therefore determined to jerk it, +and issue it in small quantities, instead of dividing it among the four +messes, and leaving to each the care of its own provisions; a plan by +which much is lost, in consequence of the improvidence of the men. Two +hunters had been despatched in the morning, and one of them, Drewyer, +had before evening killed seven elk. We should scarcely be able to +subsist, were it not for the exertions of this most excellent hunter. +The game is scarce, and nothing is now to be seen except elk, which for +almost all the men are very difficult to be procured; but Drewyer, who +is the offspring of a Canadian Frenchman and an Indian woman, has passed +his life in the woods, and unites, in a wonderful degree, the dexterous +aim of the frontier huntsman with the intuitive sagacity of the Indian, +in pursuing the faintest tracks through the forest. All our men, +however, have indeed become so expert with the rifle that we are never +under apprehensions as to food; since, whenever there is game of any +kind, we are almost certain of procuring it.” + +The narrative of the explorers gives this account of the Chinooks:-- + +“The men are low in stature, rather ugly, and ill made; their legs being +small and crooked, their feet large, and their heads, like those of the +women, flattened in a most disgusting manner. These deformities are +in part concealed by robes made of sea-otter, deer, elk, beaver or +fox skins. They also employ in their dress robes of the skin of a cat +peculiar to this country, and of another animal of the same size, which +is light and durable, and sold at a high price by the Indians who bring +it from above. In addition to these are worn blankets, wrappers of red, +blue, or spotted cloth, and some old sailors’ clothes, which are very +highly prized. The greater part of the men have guns, with powder and +ball. + +“The women have in general handsome faces, but are low and +disproportioned, with small feet and large legs, occasioned, probably, +by strands of beads, or various strings, drawn so tight above the ankles +as to prevent the circulation of the blood. Their dress, like that of +the Wahkiacums, consists of a short robe and a tissue of cedar bark. +Their hair hangs loosely down the shoulders and back; and their ears, +neck, and wrists are ornamented with blue beads. Another decoration, +which is very highly prized, consists of figures made by puncturing the +arms or legs; and on the arms of one of the squaws we observed the name +of J. Bowman, executed in the same way. In language, habits, and in +almost every other particular, they resemble the Clatsops, Cathlamahs, +and, indeed, all the people near the mouth of the Columbia, though they +appeared to be inferior to their neighbors in honesty as well as spirit. +No ill treatment or indignity on our part seemed to excite any feeling +except fear; nor, although better provided than their neighbors with +arms, have they enterprise enough either to use them advantageously +against the animals of the forest, or offensively against the +tribes near them, who owe their safety more to the timidity than the +forbearance of the Chinooks. We had heard instances of pilfering while +we were among them, and therefore gave a general order excluding them +from our encampment, so that whenever an Indian wished to visit us, he +began by calling out ‘No Chinook.’ It is not improbable that this first +impression may have left a prejudice against them, since, when we were +among the Clatsops and other tribes at the mouth of the Columbia, they +had less opportunity of stealing, if they were so disposed.” + +The weeks remaining before the party set out on their return were passed +without notable incident. The journal is chiefly occupied with comments +on the weather, which was variable, and some account of the manners and +customs of the Indian tribes along the Columbia River. At that time, +so few traders had penetrated the wilds of the Lower Columbia that the +Indians were not supplied with firearms to any great extent. Their main +reliance was the bow and arrow. A few shotguns were seen among them, +but no rifles, and great was the admiration and wonder with which the +Indians saw the white men slay birds and animals at a long distance. +Pitfalls for elk were constructed by the side of fallen trees over which +the animals might leap. Concerning the manufactures of the Clatsops, +they reported as follows:-- + +“Their hats are made of cedar-bark and bear-grass, interwoven together +in the form of a European hat, with a small brim of about two inches, +and a high crown widening upward. They are light, ornamented with +various colors and figures, and being nearly water-proof, are much more +durable than either chip or straw hats. These hats form a small article +of traffic with the whites, and their manufacture is one of the best +exertions of Indian industry. They are, however, very dexterous in +making a variety of domestic utensils, among which are bowls, spoons, +scewers (skewers), spits, and baskets. The bowl or trough is of +different shapes--round, semicircular, in the form of a canoe, or cubic, +and generally dug out of a single piece of wood; the larger vessels have +holes in the sides by way of handles, and all are executed with great +neatness. In these vessels they boil their food, by throwing hot stones +into the water, and extract oil from different animals in the same way. +Spoons are not very abundant, nor is there anything remarkable in their +shape, except that they are large and the bowl broad. Meat is roasted on +one end of a sharp skewer, placed erect before the fire, with the other +end fixed in the ground. + +“But the most curious workmanship is that of the basket. It is formed of +cedar-bark and bear-grass, so closely interwoven that it is water-tight, +without the aid of either gum or resin. The form is generally conic, or +rather the segment (frustum) of a cone, of which the smaller end is +the bottom of the basket; and being made of all sizes, from that of the +smallest cup to the capacity of five or six gallons, they answer the +double purpose of a covering for the head or to contain water. Some +of them are highly ornamented with strands of bear-grass, woven into +figures of various colors, which require great labor; yet they are made +very expeditiously and sold for a trifle. It is for the construction +of these baskets that the bear-grass forms an article of considerable +traffic. It grows only near the snowy region of the high mountains; the +blade, which is two feet long and about three-eighths of an inch wide, +is smooth, strong, and pliant; the young blades particularly, from +their not being exposed to the sun and air, have an appearance of great +neatness, and are generally preferred. Other bags and baskets, not +waterproof, are made of cedar-bark, silk-grass, rushes, flags, and +common coarse sedge, for the use of families. In these manufactures, +as in the ordinary work of the house, the instrument most in use is a +knife, or rather a dagger. The handle of it is small, and has a strong +loop of twine for the thumb, to prevent its being wrested from the band. +On each side is a blade, double-edged and pointed; the longer from nine +to ten inches, the shorter from four to five. This knife is carried +habitually in the hand, sometimes exposed, but mostly, when in company +with strangers, is put under the robe.” + +Naturally, all of the Columbia River Indians were found to be expert +in the building and handling of canoes. Here their greatest skill was +employed. And, it may be added, the Indians of the North Pacific coast +to-day are equally adept and skilful. The canoes of the present race of +red men do not essentially differ from those of the tribes described by +Lewis and Clark, and who are now extinct. The Indians then living above +tide-water built canoes of smaller size than those employed by the +nations farther down the river. The canoes of the Tillamooks and other +tribes living on the seacoast were upwards of fifty feet long, and would +carry eight or ten thousand pounds’ weight, or twenty-five or thirty +persons. These were constructed from the trunk of a single tree, usually +white cedar. The bow and stern rose much higher than the gunwale, and +were adorned by grotesque figures excellently well carved and fitted +to pedestals cut in the solid wood of the canoe. The same method of +adornment may be seen among the aborigines of Alaska and other regions +of the North Pacific, to-day. The figures are made of small pieces of +wood neatly fitted together by inlaying and mortising, without any spike +of any kind. When one reflects that the Indians seen by Lewis and Clark +constructed their large canoes with very poor tools, it is impossible +to withhold one’s admiration of their industry and patience. The journal +says:-- + +“Our admiration of their skill in these curious constructions was +increased by observing the very inadequate implements which they use. +These Indians possess very few axes, and the only tool they employ, from +felling the tree to the delicate workmanship of the images, is a chisel +made of an old file, about an inch or an inch and a half in width. +Even of this, too, they have not learned the proper management; for the +chisel is sometimes fixed in a large block of wood, and, being held in +the right hand, the block is pushed with the left, without the aid of a +mallet. But under all these disadvantages, their canoes, which one +would suppose to be the work of years, are made in a few weeks. A canoe, +however, is very highly prized, being in traffic an article of the +greatest value except a wife, and of equal value with her; so that +a lover generally gives a canoe to the father in exchange for his +daughter. . . . + +“The harmony of their private life is secured by their ignorance +of spirituous liquors, the earliest and most dreadful present which +civilization has given to the other natives of the continent. Although +they have had so much intercourse with whites, they do not appear to +possess any knowledge of those dangerous luxuries; at least they have +never inquired after them, which they probably would have done if once +liquors bad been introduced among them. Indeed, we have not observed any +liquor of intoxicating quality among these or any Indians west of the +Rocky Mountains, the universal beverage being pure water. They, however, +sometimes almost intoxicate themselves by smoking tobacco, of which they +are excessively fond, and the pleasures of which they prolong as much as +possible, by retaining vast quantities at a time, till after circulating +through the lungs and stomach it issues in volumes from the mouth and +nostrils.” + +A long period of quiet prevailed in camp after the first of February, +before the final preparations for departure were made. Parties were sent +out every day to hunt, and the campers were able to command a few days’ +supply of provision in advance. The flesh of the deer was now very lean +and poor, but that of the elk was growing better and better. It was +estimated by one of the party that they killed, between December +1, 1805, and March 20, 1806, elk to the number of one hundred and +thirty-one, and twenty deer. Some of this meat they smoked for its +better preservation, but most of it was eaten fresh. No record was kept +of the amount of fish consumed by the party; but they were obliged at +times to make fish their sole article of diet. Late in February they +were visited by Comowool, the principal Clatsop chief, who brought them +a sturgeon and quantities of a small fish which had just begun to make +its appearance in the Columbia. This was known as the anchovy, but +oftener as the candle-fish; it is so fat that it may be burned like a +torch, or candle. The journal speaks of Comowool as “by far the most +friendly and decent savage we have seen in this neighborhood.” + + + + +Chapter XIX -- With Faces turned Homeward + +The officers of the expedition had decided to begin their homeward march +on the first of April; but a natural impatience induced them to start +a little earlier, and, as a matter of record, it may be said that they +evacuated Fort Clatsop on the 23d of March, 1806. An examination of +their stock of ammunition showed that they had on hand a supply of +powder amply sufficient for their needs when travelling the three +thousand miles of wilderness in which their sole reliance for food must +be the game to be killed. The powder was kept in leaden canisters, and +these, when empty, were used for making balls for muskets and rifles. +Three bushels of salt were collected for their use on the homeward +journey. + +What they needed now most of all was an assortment of small wares and +trinkets with which to trade with the Indians among whom they must +spend so many months before reaching civilization again. They had ample +letters of credit from the Government at Washington, and if they had met +with white traders on the seacoast, they could have bought anything that +money would buy. They had spent nearly all their stock in coming across +the continent. This is Captain Lewis’s summary of the goods on hand just +before leaving Fort Clatsop:-- + +“All the small merchandise we possess might be tied up in a couple +of handkerchiefs. The rest of our stock in trade consists of six blue +robes, one scarlet ditto, five robes which we made out of our large +United States flag, a few old clothes trimmed with ribbons, and one +artillerist’s uniform coat and hat, which probably Captain Clark will +never wear again. We have to depend entirely upon this meagre outfit for +the purchase of such horses and provisions as it will be in our power to +obtain--a scant dependence, indeed, for such a journey as is before us.” + +One of their last acts was to draw up a full list of the members of +the party, and, making several copies of it, to leave these among the +friendly Indians with instructions to give a paper to the first white +men who should arrive in the country. On the back of the paper was +traced the track by which the explorers had come and that by which +they expected to return. This is a copy of one of these important +documents:-- + +“The object of this list is, that through the medium of some civilized +person who may see the same, it may be made known to the informed +world, that the party consisting of the persons whose names are hereunto +annexed, and who were sent out by the government of the U’States in May, +1804, to explore the interior of the Continent of North America, did +penetrate the same by way of the Missouri and Columbia Rivers, to the +discharge of the latter into the Pacific Ocean, where they arrived on +the 14th of November, 1805, and from whence they departed the 23d day of +March, 1806, on their return to the United States by the same rout they +had come out.” + +Curiously enough, one of these papers did finally reach the United +States. During the summer of 1806, the brig “Lydia,” Captain Hill, +entered the Columbia for the purpose of trading with the natives. From +one of these Captain Hill secured the paper, which he took to +Canton, China, in January, 1807. Thence it was sent to a gentleman in +Philadelphia, having travelled nearly all the way round the world. + +Fort Clatsop, as they called the rude collection of huts in which they +had burrowed all winter, with its rude furniture and shelters, was +formally given to Comowool, the Clatsop chief who had been so kind +to the party. Doubtless the crafty savage had had his eye on this +establishment, knowing that it was to be abandoned in the spring. + +The voyagers left Fort Clatsop about one o’clock in the day, and, after +making sixteen miles up the river, camped for the night. Next day, they +reached an Indian village where they purchased “some wappatoo and a +dog for the invalids.” They still had several men on the sick list in +consequence of the hard fare of the winter. The weather was cold and +wet, and wood for fuel was difficult to obtain. In a few days they found +themselves among their old friends, the Skilloots, who had lately been +at war with the Chinooks. There was no direct intercourse between +the two nations as yet, but the Chinooks traded with the Clatsops and +Wahkiacums, and these in turn traded with the Skilloots, and in this way +the two hostile tribes exchanged the articles which they had for those +which they desired. The journal has this to say about the game of an +island on which the explorers tarried for a day or two, in order to dry +their goods and mend their canoes:-- + +“This island, which has received from the Indians the appropriate name +of Elalah (Elallah), or Deer Island, is surrounded on the water-side by +an abundant growth of cottonwood, ash, and willow, while the interior +consists chiefly of prairies interspersed with ponds. These afford +refuge to great numbers of geese, ducks, large swan, sandhill cranes, +a few canvas-backed ducks, and particularly the duckinmallard, the most +abundant of all. There are also great numbers of snakes resembling our +garter-snakes in appearance, and like them not poisonous. Our hunters +brought in three deer, a goose, some ducks, an eagle, and a tiger-cat. +Such is the extreme voracity of the vultures, that they had devoured in +the space of a few hours four of the deer killed this morning; and one +of our men declared that they had besides dragged a large buck about +thirty yards, skinned it, and broken the backbone.” + +The vulture here referred to is better known as the California condor, a +great bird of prey which is now so nearly extinct that few specimens +are ever seen, and the eggs command a great price from those who make +collections of such objects. A condor killed by one of the hunters of +the Lewis and Clark expedition measured nine feet and six inches from +tip to tip of its wings, three feet and ten inches from the point of the +bill to the end of the tail, and six inches and a half from the back of +the head to the tip of the beak. Very few of the condors of the Andes +are much larger than this, though one measuring eleven feet from tip to +tip has been reported. + +While camped at Quicksand, or Sandy River, the party learned that food +supplies up the Columbia were scarce. The journal says that the Indians +met here were descending the river in search of food. It adds:-- + +“They told us, that they lived at the Great Rapids; but that the +scarcity of provisions there had induced them to come down, in the hopes +of finding subsistence in the more fertile valley. All the people living +at the Rapids, as well as the nations above them, were in much distress +for want of food, having consumed their winter store of dried fish, and +not expecting the return of the salmon before the next full moon, +which would be on the second of May: this information was not a little +embarrassing. From the Falls to the Chopunnish nation, the plains +afforded neither deer, elk, nor antelope for our subsistence. The +horses were very poor at this season, and the dogs must be in the same +condition, if their food, the dried fish, had failed. Still, it was +obviously inexpedient for us to wait for the return of the salmon, +since in that case we might not reach the Missouri before the ice would +prevent our navigating it. We might, besides, hazard the loss of our +horses, as the Chopunnish, with whom we had left them, would cross the +mountains as early as possible, or about the beginning of May, and take +our horses with them, or suffer them to disperse, in either of which +cases the passage of the mountains will be almost impracticable. We +therefore, after much deliberation, decided to remain where we were +till we could collect meat enough to last us till we should reach the +Chopunnish nation, and to obtain canoes from the natives as we ascended, +either in exchange for our pirogues, or by purchasing them with skins +and merchandise. These canoes, again, we might exchange for horses +with the natives of the plains, till we should obtain enough to travel +altogether by land. On reaching the southeast branch of the Columbia, +four or five men could be sent on to the Chopunnish to have our horses +in readiness; and thus we should have a stock of horses sufficient both +to transport our baggage and supply us with food, as we now perceived +that they would form our only certain dependance for subsistence.” + +On the third of April this entry is made:-- + +“A considerable number of Indians crowded about us to-day, many of whom +came from the upper part of the river. These poor wretches confirm +the reports of scarcity among the nations above; which, indeed, their +appearance sufficiently proved, for they seemed almost starved, and +greedily picked the bones and refuse meat thrown away by us. + +“In the evening Captain Clark returned from an excursion. On setting out +yesterday at half-past eleven o’clock, he directed his course along +the south side of the (Columbia) river, where, at the distance of eight +miles, he passed a village of the Nechacohee tribe, belonging to the +Eloot nation. The village itself is small, and being situated behind +Diamond Island, was concealed from our view as we passed both times +along the northern shore. He continued till three o’clock, when he +landed at the single house already mentioned as the only remains of a +village of twenty-four straw huts. Along the shore were great numbers +of small canoes for gathering wappatoo, which were left by the Shahalas, +who visit the place annually. The present inhabitants of the house are +part of the Neerchokioo tribe of the same (Shahala) nation. On entering +one of the apartments of the house, Captain Clark offered several +articles to the Indians in exchange for wappatoo; but they appeared +sullen and ill-humored, and refused to give him any. He therefore sat +down by the fire opposite the men, and taking a port-fire match from his +pocket, threw a small piece of it into the flame; at the same time he +took his pocket-compass, and by means of a magnet, which happened to be +in his inkhorn, made the needle turn round very briskly. The match now +took fire and burned violently, on which the Indians, terrified at this +strange exhibition, immediately brought a quantity of wappatoo and laid +it at his feet, begging him to put out the bad fire, while an old woman +continued to speak with great vehemence, as if praying and imploring +protection. Having received the roots, Captain Clark put up the compass, +and as the match went out of itself tranquillity was restored, though +the women and children still took refuge in their beds and behind the +men. He now paid them for what he had used, and after lighting his pipe +and smoking with them, continued down the river.” + +The excursion from which Captain Clark had returned, as noted in this +extract, was up the Multnomah River. As we have already seen, the +explorers missed that stream when they came down the Columbia; and they +had now passed it again unnoticed, owing to the number of straggling +islands that hide its junction with the Columbia. Convinced that a +considerable river must drain the region to the south, Captain Clark +went back alone and penetrating the intricate channels among the +islands, found the mouth of the Multnomah, now better known as the +Willamette. He was surprised to find that the depth of water in the +river was so great that large vessels might enter it. He would have been +much more surprised if he had been told that a large city, the largest +in Oregon, would some day be built on the site of the Indian huts which +he saw. Here Captain Clark found a house occupied by several families +of the Neechecolee nation. Their mansion was two hundred and twenty-six +feet long and was divided into apartments thirty feet square. + +The most important point in this region of the Columbia was named +Wappatoo Island by the explorers. This is a large extent of country +lying between the Willamette and an arm of the Columbia which they +called Wappatoo Inlet, but which is now known as Willamette Slough. +It is twenty miles long and from five to ten miles wide. Here is an +interesting description of the manner of gathering the roots of the +wappatoo, of which we have heard so much in this region of country:-- + +“The chief wealth of this island consists of the numerous ponds in the +interior, abounding with the common arrowhead (sagittaria sagittifolia) +to the root of which is attached a bulb growing beneath it in the mud. +This bulb, to which the Indians give the name of wappatoo,(1) is the +great article of food, and almost the staple article of commerce on the +Columbia. It is never out of season; so that at all times of the year +the valley is frequented by the neighboring Indians who come to gather +it. It is collected chiefly by the women, who employ for the purpose +canoes from ten to fourteen feet in length, about two feet wide and nine +inches deep, and tapering from the middle, where they are about twenty +inches wide. They are sufficient to contain a single person and several +bushels of roots, yet so very light that a woman can carry them with +ease. She takes one of these canoes into a pond where the water is as +high as the breast, and by means of her toes separates from the root +this bulb, which on being freed from the mud rises immediately to the +surface of the water, and is thrown into the canoe. In this manner these +patient females remain in the water for several hours, even in the depth +of winter. This plant is found through the whole extent of the valley in +which we now are, but does not grow on the Columbia farther eastward.” + + + (1) In the Chinook jargon “Wappatoo” stands for potato. + + +The natives of this inland region, the explorers found, were larger +and better-shaped than those of the sea-coast, but they were nearly +all afflicted with sore eyes. The loss of one eye was common, and not +infrequently total blindness was observed in men of mature years, while +blindness was almost universal among the old people. The white men +made good use of the eye-water which was among their supplies; it was +gratefully received by the natives and won them friends among the people +they met. On the fifth of April the journal has this entry:-- + +“In the course of his chase yesterday, one of our men (Collins), who +had killed a bear, found the den of another with three cubs in it. He +returned to-day in hopes of finding her, but brought only the cubs, +without being able to see the dam; and on this occasion Drewyer, our +most experienced huntsman, assured us that he had never known a single +instance where a female bear, which had once been disturbed by a hunter +and obliged to leave her young, returned to them again. The young bears +were sold for wappatoo to some of the many Indians who visited us in +parties during the day and behaved very well.” + +And on the ninth is this entry:-- + +“The wind having moderated, we reloaded the canoes and set out by seven +o’clock. We stopped to take up the two hunters who left us yesterday, +but were unsuccessful in the chase, and then proceeded to the Wahclellah +village, situated on the north side of the river, about a mile below +Beacon Rock. During the whole of the route from camp we passed along +under high, steep, and rocky sides of the mountains, which now close on +each side of the river, forming stupendous precipices, covered with +fir and white cedar. Down these heights frequently descend the most +beautiful cascades, one of which, a large creek, throws itself over +a perpendicular rock three hundred feet above the water, while other +smaller streams precipitate themselves from a still greater elevation, +and evaporating in a mist, collect again and form a second cascade +before they reach the bottom of the rocks. We stopped to breakfast at +this village. We here found the tomahawk which had been stolen from us +on the fourth of last November. They assured us they had bought it of +the Indians below; but as the latter had already informed us that the +Wahclellahs had such an article, which they had stolen, we made no +difficulty about retaking our property.” + +The Columbia along the region through which the expedition was now +passing is a very wild and picturesque stream. The banks are high and +rocky, and some of the precipices to which the journal refers are of +a vast perpendicular height. On the Oregon side of the river are five +cascades such as those which the journal mentions. The most famous and +beautiful of these is known as Multnomah Falls. This cataract has a +total fall of more than six hundred feet, divided into two sections. The +other cascades are the Bridal Veil, the Horsetail, the Latourelle, and +the Oneonta, and all are within a few miles of each other. + +On the ninth of April the voyagers reached the point at which they were +to leave tidewater, fifty-six miles above the mouth of the Multnomah, or +Willamette. They were now at the entrance of the great rapids which are +known as the Cascades of the Columbia, and which occupy a space on the +river about equal to four miles and a half. They were still navigating +the stream with their canoes, camping sometimes on the north side and +sometimes on the south side of the river. This time they camped on the +north side, and during the night lost one of their boats, which got +loose and drifted down to the next village of the Wahclellahs, some of +whom brought it back to the white men’s camp and were rewarded for their +honesty by a present of two knives. It was found necessary to make a +portage here, but a long and severe rainstorm set in, and the tents and +the skins used for protecting the baggage were soaked. The journal goes +on with the narrative thus:-- + +We determined to take the canoes first over the portage, in hopes that +by the afternoon the rain would cease, and we might carry our baggage +across without injury. This was immediately begun by almost the whole +party, who in the course of the day dragged four of the canoes to the +head of the rapids, with great difficulty and labor. A guard, consisting +of one sick man and three who had been lamed by accidents, remained with +Captain Lewis (and a cook) to guard the baggage. This precaution +was absolutely necessary to protect it from the Wahclellahs, whom we +discovered to be great thieves, notwithstanding their apparent honesty +in restoring our boat; indeed, so arrogant and intrusive have they +become that nothing but our numbers, we are convinced, saves us from +attack. They crowded about us while we were taking up the boats, and one +of them had the insolence to throw stones down the bank at two of our +men. + +“We now found it necessary to depart from our mild and pacific course of +conduct. On returning to the head of the portage, many of them met our +men and seemed very ill-disposed. Shields had stopped to purchase a dog, +and being separated from the rest of the party, two Indians pushed +him out of the road, and attempted to take the dog from him. He had no +weapon but a long knife, with which he immediately attacked them both, +hoping to put them to death before they had time to draw their arrows; +but as soon as they saw his design they fled into the woods. Soon +afterward we were told by an Indian who spoke Clatsop, which we had +ourselves learned during the winter, that the Wahclellahs had carried +off Captain Lewis’ dog to their village below. Three men well armed were +instantly despatched in pursuit of them, with orders to fire if there +was the slightest resistance or hesitation. At the distance of two miles +they came within sight of the thieves, who, finding themselves pursued, +left the dog and made off. We now ordered all the Indians out of our +camp, and explained to them that whoever stole any of our baggage, or +insulted our men, should be instantly shot; a resolution which we were +determined to enforce, as it was now our only means of safety. + +“We were visited during the day by a chief of the Clahclellahs, who +seemed mortified at the behavior of the Indians, and told us that the +persons at the head of their outrages were two very bad men who belonged +to the Wahclellah tribe, but that the nation did not by any means wish +to displease us. This chief seemed very well-disposed, and we had every +reason to believe was much respected by the neighboring Indians. We +therefore gave him a small medal and showed him all the attention in our +power, with which he appeared very much gratified.” + +The portage of these rapids was very difficult and tiresome. The total +distance of the first stage was twenty-eight hundred yards along a +narrow way rough with rocks and now slippery with rain. One of the +canoes was lost here by being driven out into the strong current, where +the force of the water was so great that it could not be held by the +men; the frail skiff drifted down the rapids and disappeared. They now +had two canoes and two periogues left, and the loads were divided among +these craft. This increased the difficulties of navigation, and Captain +Lewis crossed over to the south side of the river in search of canoes +to be purchased from the Indians, who lived in a village on that side of +the stream. The narrative continues: + +“The village now consisted of eleven houses, crowded with inhabitants, +and about sixty fighting men. They were very well disposed, and we found +no difficulty in procuring two small canoes, in exchange for two robes +and four elk-skins. He also purchased with deer-skins three dogs,--an +animal which has now become a favorite food, for it is found to be a +strong, healthy diet, preferable to lean deer or elk, and much superior +to horseflesh in any state. With these he proceeded along the south side +of the river, and joined us in the evening.” + +Above the rapids the party encountered two tribes of Indians from whom +they endeavored to buy horses, for they were now approaching a point +when they must leave the river and travel altogether by land. One of +these tribes was known as the Weocksockwillacurns, and the other was the +Chilluckittequaws. These jaw-breaking names are commended to those who +think that the Indian names of northern Maine are difficult to handle. +Trees were now growing scarcer, and the wide lowlands spread out before +the explorers stretched to the base of the Bitter Root Mountains +without trees, but covered with luxuriant grass and herbage. After being +confined so long to the thick forests and mountains of the seacoast, the +party found this prospect very exhilarating, notwithstanding the absence +of forests and thickets. The climate, too, was much more agreeable than +that to which they had lately been accustomed, being dry and pure. + + + + +Chapter XX -- The Last Stage of the Columbia + +On the thirteenth of April the party reached the series of falls and +rapids which they called the Long Narrows. At the point reached the +river is confined, for a space of about fourteen miles, to narrow +channels and rocky falls. The Long Narrows are now known as the Dalles. +The word “dalles” is French, and signifies flagstones, such as are used +for sidewalks. Many of the rocks in these narrows are nearly flat on +top, and even the precipitous banks look like walls of rock. At the +upper end of the rapids, or dalles, is Celilo City, and at the lower end +is Dalles City, sometimes known as “The Dalles.” Both of these places +are in Oregon; the total fall of the water from Celilo to the Dalles +is over eighty feet. Navigation of these rapids is impossible. As the +explorers had no further use for their pirogues, they broke them up for +fuel. The merchandise was laboriously carried around on the river bank. +They were able to buy four horses from the Skilloots for which they paid +well in goods. It was now nearly time for the salmon to begin to run, +and under date of April 19 the journal has this entry:-- + +“The whole village was filled with rejoicing to-day at having caught a +single salmon, which was considered as the harbinger of vast quantities +in four or five days. In order to hasten their arrival the Indians, +according to custom, dressed the fish and cut it into small pieces, +one of which was given to each child in the village. In the good humor +excited by this occurrence they parted, though reluctantly, with four +other horses, for which we gave them two kettles, reserving only a +single small one for a mess of eight men. Unluckily, however, we lost +one of the horses by the negligence of the person to whose charge he +was committed. The rest were, therefore, hobbled and tied; but as the +nations here do not understand gelding, all the horses but one were +stallions; this being the season when they are most vicious, we had +great difficulty in managing them, and were obliged to keep watch over +them all night. . . . + +“As it was obviously our interest to preserve the goodwill of these +people, we passed over several small thefts which they committed, but +this morning we learnt that six tomahawks and a knife had been stolen +during the night. We addressed ourselves to the chief, who seemed angry +with his people, and made a harangue to them; but we did not recover +the articles, and soon afterward two of our spoons were missing. We +therefore ordered them all from our camp, threatening to beat severely +any one detected in purloining. This harshness irritated them so much +that they left us in an ill-humor, and we therefore kept on our guard +against any insult. Besides this knavery, the faithlessness of the +people is intolerable; frequently, after receiving goods in exchange for +a horse, they return in a few hours and insist on revoking the bargain +or receiving some additional value. We discovered, too, that the horse +which was missing yesterday had been gambled away by the fellow from +whom we had purchased him, to a man of a different nation, who had +carried him off. We succeeded in buying two more horses, two dogs, and +some chappelell, and also exchanged a couple of elk-skins for a gun +belonging to the chief. . . . One of the canoes, for which the Indians +would give us very little, was cut up for fuel; two others, together +with some elk-skins and pieces of old iron, we bartered for beads, and +the remaining two small ones were despatched early next morning, with +all the baggage which could not be carried on horseback. We had intended +setting out at the same time, but one of our horses broke loose during +the night, and we were under the necessity of sending several men in +search of him. In the mean time, the Indians, who were always on the +alert, stole a tomahawk, which we could not recover, though several of +them were searched; and another fellow was detected in carrying off +a piece of iron, and kicked out of camp; upon which Captain Lewis, +addressing them, told them he was not afraid to fight them, for, if he +chose, he could easily put them all to death, and burn their village, +but that he did not wish to treat them ill if they kept from stealing; +and that, although, if he could discover who had the tomahawks, he would +take away their horses, yet he would rather lose the property altogether +than take the horse of an innocent man. The chiefs were present at this +harangue, hung their heads, and made no reply. + +“At ten o’clock the men returned with the horse, and soon after an +Indian, who had promised to go with us as far as the Chopunnish, came +with two horses, one of which he politely offered to assist in carrying +our baggage. We therefore loaded nine horses, and, giving the tenth to +Bratton, who was still too sick to walk, at about ten o’clock left the +village of these disagreeable people.” + +At an Indian village which they reached soon after leaving that of the +disagreeable Skilloots, they found the fellow who had gambled away +the horse that he had sold. Being faced with punishment, he agreed to +replace the animal he had stolen with another, and a very good horse was +brought to satisfy the white men, who were now determined to pursue a +rigid course with the thievish Indians among whom they found themselves. +These people, the Eneeshurs, were stingy, inhospitable, and overbearing +in their ways. Nothing but the formidable numbers of the white men saved +them from insult, pillage, and even murder. While they were here, one of +the horses belonging to the party broke loose and ran towards the Indian +village. A buffalo robe attached to him fell off and was gathered in by +one of the Eneeshurs. Captain Lewis, whose patience was now exhausted, +set out, determined to burn the village unless the Indians restored the +robe. Fortunately, however, one of his men found the missing article +hidden in a hut, and so any act of violent reprisal was not necessary. + +So scarce had now become fuel, the party were obliged to buy what little +wood they required for their single cooking-fire. They could not afford +a fire to keep them warm, and, as the nights were cold and they lay +without any shelter, they were most uncomfortable, although the days +were warm. They were now travelling along the Columbia River, using +their horses for a part of their luggage, and towing the canoes with the +remainder of the stuff. On the twenty-third of April they arrived at the +mouth of Rock Creek, on the Columbia, a considerable stream which they +missed as they passed this point on their way down, October 21. Here +they met a company of Indians called the Wahhowpum, with whom they +traded pewter buttons, strips of tin and twisted wire for roots, dogs, +and fuel. These people were waiting for the arrival of the salmon. The +journal says:-- + +“After arranging the camp we assembled all the warriors, and having +smoked with them, the violins were produced, and some of the men danced. +This civility was returned by the Indians in a style of dancing, such as +we had not yet seen. The spectators formed a circle round the dancers, +who, with their robes drawn tightly round the shoulders, and divided +into parties of five or six men, perform by crossing in a line from one +side of the circle to the other. All the parties, performers as well as +spectators, sing, and after proceeding in this way for some time, the +spectators join, and the whole concludes by a promiscuous dance and +song. Having finished, the natives retired at our request, after +promising to barter horses with us in the morning.” + +They bought three horses of these Indians and hired three more from a +Chopunnish who was to accompany them. The journal adds:-- + +“The natives also had promised to take our canoes in exchange for +horses; but when they found that we were resolved on travelling by land +they refused giving us anything, in hopes that we would be forced to +leave them. Disgusted at this conduct, we determined rather to cut them +to pieces than suffer these people to enjoy them, and actually began +to split them, on which they gave us several strands of beads for each +canoe. We had now a sufficient number of horses to carry our baggage, +and therefore proceeded wholly by land.” + +Next day the party camped near a tribe of Indians known as the +Pishquitpah. These people had never seen white men before, and they +flocked in great numbers around the strangers, but were very civil and +hospitable, although their curiosity was rather embarrassing. These +people were famous hunters, and both men and women were excellent +riders. They were now travelling on the south side of the river, in +Oregon, and, after leaving the Pishquitpahs, they encountered the +“Wollawollahs,” as they called them. These Indians are now known as the +Walla Walla tribe, and their name is given to a river, a town, and a +fort of the United States. In several of the Indian dialects walla means +“running water,” and when the word is repeated, it diminishes the size +of the object; so that Walla Walla means “little running water.” Near +here the explorers passed the mouth of a river which they called the +Youmalolam; it is a curious example of the difficulty of rendering +Indian names into English. The stream is now known as the Umatilla. +Here they found some old acquaintances of whom the journal has this +account:-- + +“Soon after we were joined by seven Wollawollahs, among whom we +recognized a chief by the name of Yellept, who had visited us on the +nineteenth of October, when we gave him a medal with the promise of a +larger one on our return. He appeared very much pleased at seeing us +again, and invited us to remain at his village three or four days, +during which he would supply us with the only food they had, and furnish +us with horses for our journey. After the cold, inhospitable treatment +we have lately received, this kind offer was peculiarly acceptable; and +after a hasty meal we accompanied him to his village, six miles above, +situated on the edge of the low country, about twelve miles below the +mouth of Lewis’ River. + +“Immediately on our arrival Yellept, who proved to be a man of much +influence, not only in his own but in the neighboring nations, collected +the inhabitants, and having made a harangue, the purport of which was +to induce the nations to treat us hospitably, he set them an example +by bringing himself an armful of wood, and a platter containing three +roasted mullets. They immediately assented to one part, at least, of the +recommendation, by furnishing us with an abundance of the only sort of +fuel they employ, the stems of shrubs growing in the plains. We then +purchased four dogs, on which we supped heartily, having been on short +allowance for two days past. When we were disposed to sleep, the Indians +retired immediately on our request, and indeed, uniformly conducted +themselves with great propriety. These people live on roots, which +are very abundant in the plains, and catch a few salmon-trout; but at +present they seem to subsist chiefly on a species of mullet, weighing +from one to three pounds. They informed us that opposite the village +there was a route which led to the mouth of the Kooskooskee, on the +south side of Lewis’ River; that the road itself was good, and passed +over a level country well supplied with water and grass; and that we +should meet with plenty of deer and antelope. We knew that a road in +that direction would shorten the distance at least eighty miles; and as +the report of our guide was confirmed by Yellept and other Indians, we +did not hesitate to adopt this route: they added, however, that there +were no houses, nor permanent Indian residences on the road and that it +would therefore be prudent not to trust wholly to our guns, but to lay +in a stock of provisions. + +“Taking their advice, therefore, we next day purchased ten dogs. While +the trade for these was being conducted by our men, Yellept brought a +fine white horse, and presented him to Captain Clark, expressing at the +same time a wish to have a kettle; but, on being informed that we had +already disposed of the last kettle we could spare, he said he would be +content with any present we chose to make him in return. Captain Clark +thereupon gave him his sword, for which the chief had before expressed a +desire, adding one hundred balls, some powder, and other small articles, +with which he appeared perfectly satisfied. We were now anxious to +depart, and requested Yellept to lend us canoes for the purpose of +crossing the river; but he would not listen to any proposal of the kind. +He wished us to remain for two or three days; but, at all events, would +not consent to our going to-day, for he had already sent to invite his +neighbors, the Chimnapoos, to come down this evening and join his people +in a dance for our amusement. We urged in vain that, by setting out +sooner, we would the earlier return with the articles they desired; +for a day, he observed, would make but little difference. We at length +mentioned that, as there was no wind it was now the best time to cross +the river, and we would merely take the horses over and return to sleep +at their village. To this he assented; we then crossed with our horses, +and having hobbled them, returned to their camp. + +“Fortunately, there was among these Wollwaollahs a prisoner belonging +to a tribe of Shoshonee or Snake Indians, residing to the south of the +Multnomah and visiting occasionally the heads of Wollawollah Creek. +Our Shoshonee woman, Sacajawea, though she belonged to a tribe near the +Missouri, spoke the same language as this prisoner; by their means we +were able to explain ourselves to the Indians, and answer all their +inquiries with respect to ourselves and the object of our journey. Our +conversation inspired them with much confidence, and they soon brought +several sick persons, for whom they requested our assistance. We +splintered (splinted) the broken arm of one, gave some relief to +another, whose knee was contracted by rheumatism, and administered what +we thought beneficial for ulcers and eruptions of the skin on various +parts of the body which are very common disorders among them. But our +most valuable medicine was eye-water, which we distributed, and which, +indeed, they required very much. + +“A little before sunset the Chimnapoos, amounting to one hundred men +and a few women, came to the village, and, joining the Wollawollahs, who +were about the same number of men, formed themselves in a circle round +our camp, and waited very patiently till our men were disposed to dance, +which they did for about an hour, to the music of the violin. They then +requested the Indians to dance. With this they readily complied; and the +whole assemblage, amounting, with the women and children of the village, +to several hundred, stood up, and sang and danced at the same time. +The exercise was not, indeed, very violent nor very graceful; for the +greater part of them were formed into a solid column, round a kind +of hollow square, stood on the same place, and merely jumped up at +intervals, to keep time to the music. Some, however, of the more active +warriors entered the square and danced round it sideways, and some of +our men joined in with them, to the great satisfaction of the Indians. +The dance continued till ten o’clock.” + +By the thirtieth of April the expedition was equipped with twenty-three +horses, most of which were young and excellent animals; but many of them +were afflicted with sore backs. All Indians are cruel masters and +hard riders, and their saddles are so rudely made that it is almost +impossible for an Indian’s horse to be free from scars; yet they +continue to ride after the animal’s back is scarified in the most +horrible manner. + +The expedition was now in what we know as Walla Walla County, +Washington, and they were travelling along the river Walla Walla, +leaving the Columbia, which has here a general direction of northerly. +The course of the party was northeast, their objective point being that +where Waitesburg is now built, near the junction of Coppie Creek and +the Touchet River. They were in a region of wood in plenty, and for the +first time since leaving the Long Narrows, or Dalles, they had as much +fuel as they needed. On the Touchet, accordingly, they camped for the +sake of having a comfortable night; the nights were cold, and a good +fire by which to sleep was an attraction not easily resisted. The +journal, April 30, has this entry:-- + +“We were soon supplied by Drewyer with a beaver and an otter, of which +we took only a part of the beaver, and gave the rest to the Indians. +The otter is a favorite food, though much inferior, at least in our +estimation, to the dog, which they will not eat. The horse is seldom +eaten, and never except when absolute necessity compels them, as the +only alternative to dying of hunger. This fastidiousness does not, +however, seem to proceed so much from any dislike to the food, as from +attachment to the animal itself; for many of them eat very heartily of +the horse-beef which we give them.” + +On the first day of May, having travelled forty miles from their camp +near the mouth of the Walla Walla, they camped between two points at +which are now situated the two towns of Prescott, on the south, and +Waitesburg, on the north. Their journal says:-- + +“We had scarcely encamped when three young men came up from the +Wollawollah village, with a steel-trap which had inadvertently been +left behind, and which they had come a whole day’s journey in order to +restore. This act of integrity was the more pleasing, because, though +very rare among Indians, it corresponded perfectly with the general +behavior of the Wollawollahs, among whom we had lost carelessly several +knives, which were always returned as soon as found. We may, indeed, +justly affirm, that of all the Indians whom we had met since leaving the +United States, the Wollawollahs were the most hospitable, honest, and +sincere.” + + + + +Chapter XXI -- Overland east of the Columbia + +It was now early in May, and the expedition, travelling eastward along +Touchet Creek, were in the country of their friends, the Chopunnish. On +the third, they were agreeably surprised to meet Weahkootnut, whom +they had named Bighorn from the fact that he wore a horn of that animal +suspended from his left arm. This man was the first chief of a large +band of Chopunnish, and when the expedition passed that way, on their +path to the Pacific, the last autumn, he was very obliging and useful to +them, guiding them down the Snake, or Lewis River. He had now heard +that the white men were on their return, and he had come over across the +hills to meet them. As we may suppose, the meeting was very cordial, and +Weahkootnut turned back with his white friends and accompanied them to +the mouth of the Kooskooskee, a stream of which our readers have heard +before; it is now known as the Clearwater. + +Captain Lewis told Weahkootnut that his people were hungry, their +slender stock of provisions being about exhausted. The chief told them +that they would soon come to a Chopunnish house where they could get +food. But the journal has this entry:-- + +“We found the house which Weahkootnut had mentioned, where we halted +for breakfast. It contained six families, so miserably poor that all +we could obtain from them were two lean dogs and a few large cakes of +half-cured bread, made of a root resembling the sweet potato, of all +which we contrived to form a kind of soup. The soil of the plain is +good, but it has no timber. The range of southwest mountains is about +fifteen miles above us, but continues to lower, and is still covered +with snow to its base. After giving passage to Lewis’ (Snake) River, +near their northeastern extremity, they terminate in a high level plain +between that river and the Kooskooskee. The salmon not having yet called +them to the rivers, the greater part of the Chopunnish are now dispersed +in villages through this plain, for the purpose of collecting quamash +and cows, which here grow in great abundance, the soil being extremely +fertile, in many places covered with long-leaved pine, larch, and +balsam-fir, which contribute to render it less thirsty than the open, +unsheltered plains.” + +By the word “cows,” in this sentence, we must understand that the +story-teller meant cowas, a root eaten by the Indians and white +explorers in that distant region. It is a knobbed, irregular root, and +when cooked resembles the ginseng. At this place the party met some of +the Indians whom Captain Clark had treated for slight diseases, when +they passed that way, the previous autumn. They bad sounded the praises +of the white men and their medicine, and others were now waiting to +be treated in the same manner. The Indians were glad to pay for their +treatment, and the white men were not sorry to find this easy method of +adding to their stock of food, which was very scanty at this time. The +journal sagely adds, “We cautiously abstain from giving them any +but harmless medicines; and as we cannot possibly do harm, our +prescriptions, though unsanctioned by the faculty, may be useful, and +are entitled to some remuneration.” Very famous and accomplished doctors +might say the same thing of their practice. But the explorers did +not meet with pleasant acquaintances only; in the very next entry is +recorded this disagreeable incident: + +“Four miles beyond this house we came to another large one, containing +ten families, where we halted and made our dinner on two dogs and +a small quantity of roots, which we did not procure without much +difficulty. Whilst we were eating, an Indian standing by, looking with +great derision at our eating dogs, threw a poor half-starved puppy +almost into Captain Lewis’ plate, laughing heartily at the humor of it. +Captain Lewis took up the animal and flung it with great force into the +fellow’s face; and seizing his tomahawk, threatened to cut him down if +he dared to repeat such insolence. He immediately withdrew, apparently +much mortified, and we continued our repast of dog very quietly. Here we +met our old Chopunnish guide, with his family; and soon afterward one +of our horses, which had been separated from the rest in charge of +Twisted-hair, and had been in this neighborhood for several weeks, was +caught and restored to us.” + +Later in that day the party came to a Chopunnish house which was one +hundred and fifty-six feet long and fifteen feet wide. Thirty families +were living in this big house, each family having its fire by itself +burning on the earthen floor, along through the middle of the great +structure. The journal says:-- + +“We arrived very hungry and weary, but could not purchase any +provisions, except a small quantity of the roots and bread of the +cows. They had, however, heard of our medical skill, and made many +applications for assistance, but we refused to do anything unless they +gave us either dogs or horses to eat. We soon had nearly fifty patients. +A chief brought his wife with an abscess on her back, and promised +to furnish us with a horse to-morrow if we would relieve her. Captain +Clark, therefore, opened the abscess, introduced a tent, and dressed it +with basilicon. We also prepared and distributed some doses of flour of +sulphur and cream of tartar, with directions for its use. For these we +obtained several dogs, but too poor for use, and therefore postponed +our medical operations till the morning. In the mean time a number of +Indians, besides the residents of the village, gathered about us or +camped in the woody bottom of the creek.” + +It will be recollected that when the expedition was in this region (on +the Kooskooskee), during the previous September, on their way westward, +they left their horses with Chief Twisted-hair, travelling overland +from that point. They were now looking for that chief, and the journal +says:-- + +“About two o’clock we collected our horses and set out, accompanied by +Weahkoonut, with ten or twelve men and a man who said he was the brother +of Twisted-hair. At four miles we came to a single house of three +families, but could not procure provisions of any kind; and five miles +further we halted for the night near another house, built like the rest, +of sticks, mats, and dried hay, and containing six families. It was now +so difficult to procure anything to eat that our chief dependence was +on the horse which we received yesterday for medicine; but to our great +disappointment he broke the rope by which he was confined, made his +escape, and left us supperless in the rain.” + +Next day they met an Indian who brought them two canisters of powder, +which they at once knew to be some of that which they had buried last +autumn. The Indian said that his dog had dug it up in the meadow by the +river, and he had restored it to its rightful owners. As a reward for +his honesty, the captains gave him a flint and steel for striking fire; +and they regretted that their own poverty prevented them from being more +liberal to the man. + +They observed that the Rocky Mountains, now in full sight, were still +covered with snow, and the prospect of crossing them was not very rosy. +Their Chopunnish guide told them that it would be impossible to cross +the mountains before the next full moon, which would be about the first +of June. The journal adds: “To us, who are desirous of reaching the +plains of the Missouri--if for no other reason, for the purpose of +enjoying a good meal--this intelligence was by no means welcome, and +gave no relish to the remainder of the horse killed at Colter’s Creek, +which formed our supper, as part of which had already been our dinner.” + Next day, accordingly, the hunters turned out early in the morning, and +before noon returned with four deer and a duck, which, with the +remains of horse-beef on hand, gave them a much more plentiful stock +of provisions than had lately fallen to their lot. During the previous +winter, they were told, the Indians suffered very much for lack of food, +game of all sorts being scarce. They were forced to boil and eat the +moss growing on the trees, and they cut down the pine-trees for the sake +of the small nut to be found in the pine-cones. Here they were met by +an old friend, Neeshnepahkeeook and the Shoshonee, who had acted as +interpreter for them. The journal says:-- + +“We gave Neeshnepahkeeook and his people some of our game and +horse-beef, besides the entrails of the deer, and four fawns which we +found inside of two of them. They did not eat any of them perfectly raw, +but the entrails had very little cooking; the fawns were boiled whole, +and the hide, hair, and entrails all consumed. The Shoshonee was +offended at not having as much venison as he wished, and refused to +interpret; but as we took no notice of him, he became very officious in +the course of a few hours, and made many efforts to reinstate himself in +our favor. The brother of Twisted-hair, and Neeshnepahkeeook, now drew +a sketch, which we preserved, of all the waters west of the Rocky +Mountains.” + +They now met Twisted-hair, in whose care they had left their horses and +saddles the previous fall, and this was the result of their inquiries:-- + +“Between three and four o’clock in the afternoon we set out, in company +with Neeshuepahkeeook and other Indians, the brother of Twisted-hair +having left us. Our route was up a high steep hill to a level plain +with little wood, through which we passed in a direction parallel to the +(Kooskooskee) River for four miles, when we met Twisted-hair and six of +his people. To this chief we had confided our horses and a part of +our saddles last autumn, and we therefore formed very unfavorable +conjectures on finding that he received us with great coldness. Shortly +afterward he began to speak in a very loud, angry manner, and was +answered by Neeshnepahkeeook. We now discovered that a violent quarrel +had arisen between these chiefs, on the subject, as we afterward +understood, of our horses. But as we could not learn the cause, and were +desirous of terminating the dispute, we interposed, and told them we +should go on to the first water and camp. We therefore set out, followed +by all the Indians, and having reached, at two miles’ distance, a small +stream running to the right, we camped with the two chiefs and their +little bands, forming separate camps at a distance from each other. They +all appeared to be in an ill humor; and as we had already heard reports +that the Indians had discovered and carried off our saddles, and that +the horses were very much scattered, we began to be uneasy, lest there +should be too much foundation for the report. We were therefore anxious +to reconcile the two chiefs as soon as possible, and desired the +Shoshonee to interpret for us while we attempted a mediation, but be +peremptorily refused to speak a word. He observed that it was a quarrel +between the two chiefs, and he had therefore no right to interfere; nor +could all our representations, that by merely repeating what we said he +could not possibly be considered as meddling between the chiefs, induce +him to take any part in it. + +“Soon afterward Drewyer returned from hunting, and was sent to invite +Twisted-hair to come and smoke with us. He accepted the invitation, and +as we were smoking the pipe over our fire he informed us that according +to his promise on leaving us at the falls of the Columbia, he had +collected our horses and taken charge of them as soon as he reached +home. But about this time Neeshnepahkeeook and Turmachemootoolt +(Broken-arm), who, as we passed, were on a war-party against the +Shoshonees on the south branch of Lewis’ River, returned; and becoming +jealous of him, because the horses had been confided to his care, +were constantly quarrelling with him. At length, being an old man and +unwilling to live in perpetual dispute with these two chiefs, he had +given up the care of the horses, which had consequently become very +much scattered. The greater part of them were, however, still in the +neighborhood; some in the forks between the Chopunnish and Kooskooskee, +and three or four at the village of Broken Arm, about half a day’s march +higher up the river. He added, that on the rise of the river in the +spring, the earth had fallen from the door of the cache, and exposed the +saddles, some of which had probably been lost; but that, as soon as he +was acquainted with the situation of them, he had them buried in another +deposit, where they now were. He promised that, if we would stay the +next day at his house, a few miles distant, he would collect such of the +horses as were in the neighborhood, and send his young men for those in +the forks, over the Kooskooskee. He moreover advised us to visit Broken +Arm, who was a chief of great eminence, and he would himself guide us to +his dwelling. + +“We told him that we would follow his advice in every respect; that we +had confided our horses to his care, and expected he would deliver +them to us, on which we should cheerfully give him the two guns and the +ammunition we had promised him. With this he seemed very much pleased, +and declared he would use every exertion to restore the horses. We now +sent for Neesbnepahkeeook, or Cut Nose, and, after smoking for some +time, began by expressing to the two chiefs our regret at seeing a +misunderstanding between them. Neeshnepahkeeook replied that Twisted +Hair was a bad old man, and wore two faces; for, instead of taking care +of our horses, he had suffered his young men to hunt with them, so that +they had been very much injured, and it was for this reason that Broken +Arm and himself had forbidden him to use them. Twisted Hair made +no reply to this speech, and we then told Neeshnepahkeeook of our +arrangement for the next day. He appeared to be very well satisfied, and +said he would himself go with us to Broken Arm, who expected to see us, +and had TWO BAD HORSES FOR US; by which expression we understood that +Broken Arm intended to make us a present of two horses.” + +Next day, the party reached the house of Twisted-hair, and began to +look for their horses and saddles. The journal gives this account of the +search:-- + +“Late in the afternoon, Twisted-hair returned with about half the +saddles we had left in the autumn, and some powder and lead which were +buried at the same place. Soon after, the Indians brought us twenty-one +of our horses, the greater part of which were in excellent order, though +some had not yet recovered from hard usage, and three had sore backs. +We were, however, very glad to procure them in any condition. Several +Indians came down from the village of Tunnachemootoolt and passed the +night with us. Cut-nose and Twisted-hair seem now perfectly reconciled, +for they both slept in the house of the latter. The man who had imposed +himself upon us as a brother of Twisted-hair also came and renewed his +advances, but we now found that he was an impertinent, proud fellow, of +no respectability in the nation, and we therefore felt no inclination to +cultivate his intimacy. Our camp was in an open plain, and soon became +very uncomfortable, for the wind was high and cold, and the rain and +hail, which began about seven o’clock, changed in two hours to a heavy +fall of snow, which continued till after six o’clock (May 10th), the +next morning, when it ceased, after covering the ground eight inches +deep and leaving the air keen and cold. We soon collected our horses, +and after a scanty breakfast of roots set out on a course S. 35'0 E.” + +They were now following the general course of the Kooskooskee, or +Clearwater, as the stream is called, and their route lay in what is now +Nez Perce County, Idaho. They have passed the site of the present city +of Lewiston, named for Captain Lewis. They have arrived in a region +inhabited by the friendly Chopunnish, or Nez Perce, several villages +of which nation were scattered around the camp of the white men. The +narrative says: + +“We soon collected the men of consideration, and after smoking, +explained how destitute we were of provisions. The chief spoke to the +people, who immediately brought two bushels of dried quamash-roots, some +cakes of the roots of cows, and a dried salmon-trout; we thanked them +for this supply, but observed that, not being accustomed to live on +roots alone, we feared that such diet might make our men sick, and +therefore proposed to exchange one of our good horses, which was rather +poor, for one that was fatter, and which we might kill. The hospitality +of the chief was offended at the idea of an exchange; he observed +that his people had an abundance of young horses, and that if we +were disposed to use that food we might have as many as we wanted. +Accordingly, they soon gave us two fat young horses, without asking +anything in return, an act of liberal hospitality much greater than any +we have witnessed since crossing the Rocky Mountains, if it be not in +fact the only really hospitable treatment we have received in this part +of the world. We killed one of the horses, and then telling the natives +that we were fatigued and hungry, and that as soon as we were refreshed +we would communicate freely with them, began to prepare our repast. + +“During this time a principal chief, called Hohastillpilp, came from +his village, about six miles distant, with a party of fifty men, for the +purpose of visiting us. We invited him into our circle, and he alighted +and smoked with us, while his retinue, with five elegant horses, +continued mounted at a short distance. While this was going on, the +chief had a large leathern tent spread for us, and desired that we +would make it our home so long as we remained at his village. We removed +there, and having made a fire, and cooked our supper of horseflesh +and roots, collected all the distinguished men present, and spent +the evening in making known who we were, what were the objects of +our journey, and in answering their inquiries. To each of the chiefs +Tunnachemootoolt and Hohastillpilp we gave a small medal, explaining +their use and importance as honorary distinctions both among the whites +and the red men. Our men were well pleased at once more having made a +hearty meal. They had generally been in the habit of crowding into the +houses of the Indians, to purchase provisions on the best terms they +could; for the inhospitality of the country was such, that often, in +the extreme of hunger, they were obliged to treat the natives with +but little ceremony; but this Twisted Hair had told us was very +disagreeable. Finding that these people are so kind and liberal, we +ordered our men to treat them with the greatest respect, and not +to throng round their fires, so that they now agree perfectly well +together. After the council the Indians felt no disposition to retire, +and our tent was filled with them all night.” + +As the expedition was here in a populous country, among many bands of +Indians, it was thought wise to have a powwow with the head men +and explain to them what were the intentions of the United States +Government. But, owing to the crooked course which their talk must needs +take, it was very difficult to learn if the Indians finally understood +what was said. Here is the journal’s account of the way in which the +powwow was conducted:-- + +“We collected the chiefs and warriors, and having drawn a map of +the relative situation of our country on a mat with a piece of coal, +detailed the nature and power of the American nation, its desire to +preserve harmony between all its red brethren, and its intention of +establishing trading-houses for their relief and support. It was not +without difficulty, nor till after nearly half the day was spent, that +we were able to convey all this information to the Chopunnish, much of +which might have been lost or distorted in its circuitous route through +a variety of languages; for in the first place, we spoke in English +to one of our men, who translated it into French to Chaboneau; he +interpreted it to his wife in the Minnetaree language; she then put it +into Shoshonee, and the young Shoshonee prisoner explained it to the +Chopunnish in their own dialect. At last we succeeded in communicating +the impression we wished, and then adjourned the council; after which +we amused them by showing the wonders of the compass, spy-glass, magnet, +watch, and air-gun, each of which attracted its share of admiration.” + +The simple-minded Indians, who seemed to think that the white men could +heal all manner of diseases, crowded around them next day, begging for +medicines and treatment. These were freely given, eye-water being most +in demand. There was a general medical powwow. The journal adds:-- + +“Shortly after, the chiefs and warriors held a council among themselves, +to decide on an answer to our speech, and the result was, as we were +informed, that they had full confidence in what we had told them, and +were resolved to follow our advice. This determination having been made, +the principal chief, Tunnachemootoolt, took a quantity of flour of +the roots of cow-weed (cowas), and going round to all the kettles and +baskets in which his people were cooking, thickened the soup into a +kind of mush. He then began an harangue, setting forth the result of the +deliberations among the chiefs, and after exhorting them to unanimity, +concluded with an invitation to all who acquiesced in the proceedings +of the council to come and eat; while those who were of a different +mind were requested to show their dissent by not partaking of the feast. +During this animated harangue, the women, who were probably uneasy at +the prospect of forming this proposed new connection with strangers, +tore their hair, and wrung their hands with the greatest appearance of +distress. But the concluding appeal of the orator effectually stopped +the mouths of every malecontent, and the proceedings were ratified, and +the mush devoured with the most zealous unanimity. + +“The chiefs and warriors then came in a body to visit us as we were +seated near our tent; and at their instance, two young men, one of whom +was a son of Tunnachemootoolt, and the other the youth whose father +had been killed by the Pahkees, presented to us each a fine horse. We +invited the chiefs to be seated, and gave every one of them a flag, a +pound of powder, and fifty balls, and a present of the same kind to the +young men from whom we had received the horses. They then invited us +into the tent, and said that they now wished to answer what we had +told them yesterday, but that many of their people were at that moment +waiting in great pain for our medical assistance.” + +It was agreed, therefore, that Captain Clark, who seems to have been +their favorite physician, should attend to the sick and lame, while +Captain Lewis should conduct a council with the chiefs and listen to +what they had to say. The upshot of the powwow was that the Chopunnish +said they had sent three of their warriors with a pipe to make peace +with the Shoshonees, last summer, as they had been advised to do by the +white men. The Shoshonees, unmindful of the sacredness of this +embassy, had killed the young warriors and had invited the battle which +immediately took place, in which the Chopunnish killed forty-two of the +Shoshonees, to get even for the wanton killing of their three young men. +The white men now wanted some of the Chopunnish to accompany them to +the plains of the Missouri, but the Indians were not willing to go until +they were assured that they would not be waylaid and slain by their +enemies of the other side of the mountains. The Chopunnish would think +over the proposal that some of their young men should go over the range +with the white men; a decision on this point should be reached before +the white men left the country. Anyhow, the white men might be sure +that the Indians would do their best to oblige their visitors. Their +conclusion was, “For, although we are poor, our hearts are good.” The +story of this conference thus concludes:-- + +“As soon as this speech was concluded, Captain Lewis replied at some +length; with this they appeared highly gratified, and after smoking the +pipe, made us a present of another fat horse for food. We, in turn, gave +Broken-arm a phial of eye-water, with directions to wash the eyes of all +who should apply for it; and as we promised to fill it again when it +was exhausted, he seemed very much pleased with our liberality. To +Twisted-hair, who had last night collected six more horses, we gave a +gun, one hundred balls, and two pounds of powder, and told him he should +have the same quantity when we received the remainder of our horses. In +the course of the day three more of them were brought in, and a fresh +exchange of small presents put the Indians in excellent humor. On our +expressing a wish to cross the river and form a camp, in order to hunt +and fish till the snows had melted, they recommended a position a few +miles distant, and promised to furnish us to-morrow with a canoe to +cross. We invited Twisted-hair to settle near our camp, for he has +several young sons, one of whom we hope to engage as a guide, and he +promised to do so. Having now settled all their affairs, the Indians +divided themselves into two parties, and began to play the game of +hiding a bone, already described as common to all the natives of this +country, which they continued playing for beads and other ornaments.” + +As there was so dismal a prospect for crossing the snow-covered +mountains at this season of the year, the captains of the expedition +resolved to establish a camp and remain until the season should be +further advanced. Accordingly, a spot on the north side of the river, +recommended to them by the Indians, was selected, and a move across +the stream was made. A single canoe was borrowed for the transit of the +baggage, and the horses were driven in to swim across, and the passage +was accomplished without loss. The camp was built on the site of an old +Indian house, in a circle about thirty yards in diameter, near the river +and in an advantageous position. As soon as the party were encamped, the +two Chopunnish chiefs came down to the opposite bank, and, with twelve +of their nation, began to sing. This was the custom of these people, +being a token of their friendship on such occasions. The captains sent +a canoe over for the chiefs, and, after smoking for some time, +Hohastillpilp presented Captain with a fine gray horse which he had +brought over for that purpose, and he was perfectly satisfied to receive +in return a handkerchief, two hundred balls, and four pounds of powder. + +Here is some curious information concerning the bears which they found +in this region. It must be borne in mind that they were still west of +the Bitter Root Mountains:-- + +“The hunters killed some pheasants, two squirrels, and a male and a +female bear, the first of which was large, fat, and of a bay color; the +second meagre, grizzly, and of smaller size. They were of the species +(Ursus horribilis) common to the upper part of the Missouri, and might +well be termed the variegated bear, for they are found occasionally of +a black, grizzly, brown, or red color. There is every reason to believe +them to be of precisely the same species. Those of different colors are +killed together, as in the case of these two, and as we found the white +and bay associated together on the Missouri; and some nearly white were +seen in this neighborhood by the hunters. Indeed, it is not common to +find any two bears of the same color; and if the difference in color +were to constitute a distinction of species, the number would increase +to almost twenty. Soon afterward the hunters killed a female bear with +two cubs. The mother was black, with a considerable intermixture of +white hairs and a white spot on the breast. One of the cubs was jet +black, and the other of a light reddish-brown or bay color. The hair +of these variegated bears is much finer, longer, and more abundant than +that of the common black bear; but the most striking differences between +them are that the former are larger and have longer tusks, and longer as +well as blunter talons; that they prey more on other animals; that they +lie neither so long nor so closely in winter quarters; and that they +never climb a tree, however closely pressed by the hunters. These +variegated bears, though specifically the same with those we met on the +Missouri, are by no means so ferocious; probably because the scarcity +of game and the habit of living on roots may have weaned them from the +practices of attacking and devouring animals. Still, however, they are +not so passive as the common black bear, which is also to be found here; +for they have already fought with our hunters, though with less fury +than those on the other side of the mountains. + +“A large part of the meat we gave to the Indians, to whom it was a real +luxury, as they scarcely taste flesh once in a month. They immediately +prepared a large fire of dried wood, on which was thrown a number of +smooth stones from the river. As soon as the fire went down and the +stones were heated, they were laid next to each other in a level +position, and covered with a quantity of pine branches, on which were +placed flitches of the meat, and then boughs and flesh alternately for +several courses, leaving a thick layer of pine on the top. On this heap +they then poured a small quantity of water, and covered the whole with +earth to the depth of four inches. After remaining in this state for +about three hours, the meat was taken off, and was really more tender +than that which we had boiled or roasted, though the strong flavor of +the pine rendered it disagreeable to our palates. This repast gave them +much satisfaction; for, though they sometimes kill the black bear, they +attack very reluctantly the fierce variegated bear; and never except +when they can pursue him on horseback over the plains, and shoot him +with arrows.” + + + + +Chapter XXII -- Camping with the Nez Perces + +Soon after they had fixed their camp, the explorers bade farewell to +their good friend Tunnachemootoolt and his young men, who returned +to their homes farther down the river. Others of the Nez Perce, or +Chopunnish, nation visited them, and the strangers were interested in +watching the Indians preparing for their hunt. As they were to hunt the +deer, they had the head, horns, and hide of that animal so prepared +that when it was placed on the head and body of a hunter, it gave a very +deceptive idea of a deer; the hunter could move the head of the decoy +so that it looked like a deer feeding, and the suspicious animals were +lured within range of the Indians’ bow and arrow. + +On the sixteenth of May, Hohastillpilp and his young men also left the +white men’s camp and returned to their own village. The hunters of the +party did not meet with much luck in their quest for game, only one deer +and a few pheasants being brought in for several days. The party were +fed on roots and herbs, a species of onion being much prized by them. +Bad weather confined them to their camp, and a common entry in their +journal refers to their having slept all night in a pool of water formed +by the falling rain; their tent-cover was a worn-out leathern affair +no longer capable of shedding the rain. While it rained in the meadows +where they were camped, they could see the snow covering the higher +plains above them; on those plains the snow was more than a foot deep, +and yet the plants and shrubs seemed to thrive in the midst of the snow. +On the mountains the snow was several feet in depth. The journalist +says: “So that within twenty miles of our camp we observe the rigors +of winter cold, the cool air of spring, and the oppressive heat of +midsummer.” They kept a shrewd lookout for the possibilities of future +occupation of the land by white men; and, writing here of country and +its character, the journalist says: “In short, this district affords +many advantages to settlers, and if properly cultivated, would yield +every object necessary for the comfort and subsistence of civilized +man.” But in their wildest dreams, Captains Lewis and Clark could not +have foreseen that in that identical region thrifty settlements of white +men should flourish and that the time would come when the scanty remnant +of the Chopunnish, whom we now call Nez Perces, would be gathered on a +reservation near their camping-place. But both of these things have come +to pass. + +In describing the dress of the Chopunnish, or Nez Perces, the +journal says that tippets, or collars, were worn by the men. “That +of Hohastillpilp,” says the journal, “was formed of human scalps and +adorned with the thumbs and fingers of several men slain by him in +battle.” And yet the journal immediately adds: “The Chopunnish are among +the most amiable men we have seen. Their character is placid and gentle, +rarely moved to passion, yet not often enlivened by gayety.” In short, +the Indians were amiable savages; and it is a savage trait to love to +destroy one’s enemies. + +Here is an entry in the journal of May 19 which will give the reader +some notion of the privations and the pursuits of the party while shut +up in camp for weary weeks in the early summer of 1806:-- + +“After a cold, rainy night, during a greater part of which we lay in the +water, the weather became fair; we then sent some men to a village above +us, on the opposite side, to purchase some roots. They carried with +them for this purpose a small collection of awls, knitting-pins, and +armbands, with which they obtained several bushels of the root of cows, +and some bread of the same material. They were followed, too, by a train +of invalids from the village, who came to ask for our assistance. The +men were generally afflicted with sore eyes; but the women had besides +this a variety of other disorders, chiefly rheumatic, a violent pain and +weakness in the loins, which is a common complaint among them; one of +them seemed much dejected, and as we thought, from the account of her +disease, hysterical. We gave her thirty drops of laudanum, and after +administering eye-water, rubbing the rheumatic patients with volatile +liniment, and giving cathartics to others, they all thought themselves +much relieved and returned highly satisfied to the village. We were +fortunate enough to retake one of the horses on which we (Captain Lewis) +had crossed the Rocky Mountains in the autumn, and which had become +almost wild since that time.” + +A day or two later, the journal has this significant entry: “On +parcelling out the stores, the stock of each man was found to be only +one awl, and one knitting-pin, half an ounce of vermilion, two needles, +a few skeins of thread, and about a yard of ribbon--a slender means of +bartering for our subsistence; but the men have been so much accustomed +to privations that now neither the want of meat nor the scanty funds +of the party excites the least anxiety among them.” To add to their +discomfort, there was a great deal of sickness in the camp, owing to the +low diet of the men. Sacajawea’s baby was ill with mumps and teething, +and it is suggested that the two captains would have been obliged to +“walk the floor all night,” if there had been any floor to walk on; as +it was, they were deprived of their nightly rest. Here is an example +of what the doctors would call heroic treatment by Captain Clark, who +conducted all such experiments:-- + +“With one of the men (Bratton) we have ventured an experiment of a very +robust nature. He has been for some time sick, but has now recovered his +flesh, eats heartily, and digests well, but has so great a weakness in +the loins that he cannot walk or even sit upright without extreme pain. +After we had in vain exhausted the resources of our art, one of the +hunters mentioned that he had known persons in similar situations to +be restored by violent sweats, and at the request of the patient, we +permitted the remedy to be applied. For this purpose a hole about four +feet deep and three in diameter was dug in the earth, and heated well +by a large fire in the bottom of it. The fire was then taken out, and +an arch formed over the hole by means of willow-poles, and covered +with several blankets so as to make a perfect awning. The patient being +stripped naked, was seated under this on a beach, with a piece of board +for his feet, and with a jug of water sprinkled the bottom and sides +of the hole, so as to keep up as hot a steam as he could bear. +After remaining twenty minutes in this situation, he was taken out, +immediately plunged twice in cold water, and brought back to the hole, +where he resumed the vapor bath. During all this time he drank copiously +a strong infusion of horse-mint, which was used as a substitute for +seneca-root, which our informant said he had seen employed on these +occasions, but of which there is none in this country. At the end +of three-quarters of an hour he was again withdrawn from the hole, +carefully wrapped, and suffered to cool gradually. This operation was +performed yesterday; this morning he walked about and is nearly free +from pain. About eleven o’clock a canoe arrived with three Indians, one +of whom was the poor creature who had lost the use of his limbs, and +for whose recovery the natives seem very anxious, as he is a chief of +considerable rank among them. His situation is beyond the reach of our +skill. He complains of no pain in any peculiar limb, and we therefore +think his disorder cannot be rheumatic, and his limbs would have been +more diminished if his disease had been a paralytic affection. We had +already ascribed it to his diet of roots, and had recommended his living +on fish and flesh, and using the cold bath every morning, with a dose of +cream of tartar or flowers of sulphur every third day.” + +It is gratifying to be able to record the fact that Bratton and the +Indian (who was treated in the same manner) actually recovered from +their malady. The journal says of the Indian that his restoration +was “wonderful.” This is not too strong a word to use under the +circumstances, for the chief had been helpless for nearly three years, +and yet he was able to get about and take care of himself after he had +been treated by Captain (otherwise Doctor) Clark. Two of his men met +with a serious disaster about this time; going across the river to trade +with some Indians, their boat was stove and went to the bottom, carrying +with it three blankets, a blanket-coat, and their scanty stock of +merchandise, all of which was utterly lost. Another disaster, which +happened next day, is thus recorded:-- + +“Two of our men, who had been up the river to trade with the Indians, +returned quite unsuccessful. Nearly opposite the village, their horse +fell with his load down a steep cliff into the river, across which he +swam. An Indian on the opposite side drove him back to them; but +in crossing most of the articles were lost and the paint melted. +Understanding their intentions, the Indians attempted to come over to +them, but having no canoe, were obliged to use a raft, which struck on a +rock, upset, and the whole store of roots and bread were destroyed. +This failure completely exhausted our stock of merchandise; but the +remembrance of what we suffered from cold and hunger during the passage +of the Rocky Mountains makes us anxious to increase our means of +subsistence and comfort, since we have again to encounter the same +inconvenience.” + +But the ingenuity of the explorers was equal to this emergency. Having +observed that the Indians were very fond of brass buttons, which they +fastened to their garments as ornaments, and not for the useful purpose +for which buttons are made, the men now proceeded to cut from their +shabby United States uniforms those desired articles, and thus formed a +new fund for trading purposes. To these they added some eye-water, some +basilicon, and a few small tin boxes in which phosphorus had been kept. +Basilicon, of which mention is frequently made in the journal, was an +ointment composed of black pitch, white wax, resin, and olive oil; it +was esteemed as a sovereign remedy for all diseases requiring an outward +application. With these valuables two men were sent out to trade with +the Indians, on the second day of June, and they returned with three +bushels of eatable roots and some cowas bread. Later in that day, a +party that had been sent down the river (Lewis’) in quest of food, +returned with a goodly supply of roots and seventeen salmon. These +fish, although partly spoiled by the long journey home, gave great +satisfaction to the hungry adventurers, for they were the promise of a +plenty to come when the salmon should ascend the rivers that make into +the Columbia. At this time we find the following interesting story in +the journal of the expedition:-- + +“We had lately heard, also, that some Indians, residing at a +considerable distance, on the south side of the Kooskooskee, were in +possession of two tomahawks, one of which had been left at our camp on +Moscheto Creek, and the other had been stolen while we were with the +Chopunnish in the autumn. This last we were anxious to obtain, in order +to give it to the relations of our unfortunate companion, Sergeant +Floyd,(1) to whom it once belonged. We therefore sent Drewyer, with the +two chiefs Neeshnepahkeeook and Hohastillpilp (who had returned to us) +to demand it. On their arrival, they found that the present possessor +of it, who had purchased it of the thief, was at the point of death; and +his relations were unwilling to give it up, as they wished to bury it in +the grave with the deceased. The influence of Neeshnepahkeeook, however, +at length prevailed; and they consented to surrender the tomahawk on +receiving two strands of beads and a handkerchief from Drewyer, and +from each of the chiefs a horse, to be killed at the funeral of their +kinsman, according to the custom of the country.” + + + (1) See page 23. + + +The Chopunnish chiefs now gave their final answer to the two captains +who had requested guides from them. The chiefs said that they could not +accompany the party, but later in the summer they might cross the great +divide and spend the next winter on the headwaters of the Missouri. At +present, they could only promise that some of their young men should go +with the whites; these had not been selected, but they would be sent on +after the party, if the two captains insisted on starting now. This +was not very encouraging, for they had depended upon the Indians for +guidance over the exceedingly difficult and even dangerous passages of +the mountains. Accordingly, it was resolved that, while waiting on the +motions of the Indians, the party might as well make a visit to Quamash +flats, where they could lay in a stock of provisions for their arduous +journey. It is not certain which of the several Quamash flats mentioned +in the history of the expedition is here referred to; but it is likely +that the open glade in which Captain Clark first struck the low country +of the west is here meant. It was here that he met the Indian boys +hiding in the grass, and from here he led the expedition out of the +wilderness. For “quamash” read “camass,” an edible root much prized by +the Nez Perces then and now. + +While they lingered at their camp, they were visited by several bands of +friendly Indians. The explorers traded horses with their visitors, +and, with what they already had, they now found their band to number +sixty-five, all told. Having finished their trading, they invited the +Indians to take part in the games of prisoners’ base and foot-racing; in +the latter game the Indians were very expert, being able to distance +the fleetest runner of the white men’s party. At night, the games +were concluded by a dance. The account of the expedition says that the +captains were desirous of encouraging these exercises before they +should begin the passage over the mountains, “as several of the men are +becoming lazy from inaction.” + +On the tenth of June the party set out for Quamash flats, each man well +mounted and leading a spare horse which carried a small load. To their +dismay, they found that their good friends, the Chopunnish, unwilling to +part with them, were bound to accompany them to the hunting-grounds. The +Indians would naturally expect to share in the hunt and to be provided +for by the white men. The party halted there only until the sixth of +June, and then, collecting their horses, set out through what proved to +be a very difficult trail up the creek on which they were camped, in +a northeasterly direction. There was still a quantity of snow on the +ground, although this was in shady places and hollows. Vegetation was +rank, and the dogtooth violet, honeysuckle, blue-bell, and columbine +were in blossom. The pale blue flowers of the quamash gave to the level +country the appearance of a blue lake. Striking Hungry Creek, which +Captain Clark had very appropriately named when he passed that way, the +previous September, they followed it up to a mountain for about three +miles, when they found themselves enveloped in snow; their limbs were +benumbed, and the snow, from twelve to fifteen feet deep, so paralyzed +their feet that further progress was impossible. Here the journal should +be quoted:-- + +“We halted at the sight of this new difficulty. We already knew that to +wait till the snows of the mountains had dissolved, so as to enable us +to distinguish the road, would defeat our design of returning to the +United States this season. We now found also that as the snow bore our +horses very well, travelling was infinitely easier than it was last +fall, when the rocks and fallen timber had so much obstructed our march. +But it would require five days to reach the fish-weirs at the mouth of +Colt (-killed) Creek, even if we were able to follow the proper ridges +of the mountains; and the danger of missing our direction is exceedingly +great while every track is covered with snow. During these five days, +too, we have no chance of finding either grass or underwood for our +horses, the snow being so deep. To proceed, therefore, under such +circumstances, would be to hazard our being bewildered in the mountains, +and to insure the loss of our horses; even should we be so fortunate as +to escape with our lives, we might be obliged to abandon all our papers +and collections. It was therefore decided not to venture any further; +to deposit here all the baggage and provisions for which we had no +immediate use; and, reserving only subsistence for a few days, to return +while our horses were yet strong to some spot where we might live +by hunting, till a guide could be procured to conduct us across the +mountains. Our baggage was placed on scaffolds and carefully covered, as +were also the instruments and papers, which we thought it safer to leave +than to risk over the roads and creeks by which we came.” + +There was nothing left to do but to return to Hungry Creek. Finding a +scanty supply of grass, they camped under most depressing circumstances; +their outlook now was the passing of four or five days in the midst +of snows from ten to fifteen feet deep, with no guide, no road, and +no forage. In this emergency, two men were sent back to the Chopunnish +country to hurry up the Indians who had promised to accompany them over +the mountains; and, to insure a guide, these men were authorized to +offer a rifle as a reward for any one who would undertake the task. For +the present, it was thought best to return to Quamash flats. + + + + +Chapter XXIII -- Crossing the Bitter Root Mountains + +Disasters many kept pace with the unhappy explorers on their way back +to Quamash flats after their rebuff at the base of the Bitter Root +Mountains. One of the horses fell down a rough and rocky place, carrying +his rider with him; but fortunately neither horse nor man was killed. +Next, a man, sent ahead to cut down the brush that blocked the path, cut +himself badly on the inside of his thigh and bled copiously. The hunters +sent out for game returned empty-handed. The fishermen caught no fish, +but broke the two Indian gigs, or contrivances for catching fish, with +which they had been provided. The stock of salt had given out, the +bulk of their supply having been left on the mountain. Several large +mushrooms were brought in by Cruzatte, but these were eaten without +pepper, salt, or any kind of grease,--“a very tasteless, insipid food,” + as the journal says. To crown all, the mosquitoes were pestilential in +their numbers and venom. + +Nevertheless, the leaders of the expedition were determined to press on +and pass the Bitter Root Mountains as soon as a slight rest at Quamash +flats should be had. If they should tarry until the snows melted from +the trail, they would be too late to reach the United States that winter +and would be compelled to pass the next winter at some camp high up on +the Missouri, as they had passed one winter at Fort Mandan, on their way +out. This is the course of argument which Captain Lewis and Clark took +to persuade each other as to the best way out of their difficulties:-- + +“The snows have formed a hard, coarse bed without crust, on which the +horses walk safely without slipping; the chief difficulty, therefore, is +to find the road. In this we may be assisted by the circumstance that, +though generally ten feet in depth, the snow has been thrown off by the +thick and spreading branches of the trees, and from round the trunk; +while the warmth of the trunk itself, acquired by the reflection of the +sun, or communicated by natural heat of the earth, which is never frozen +under these masses, has dissolved the snow so much that immediately at +the roots its depth is not more than one or two feet. We therefore hope +that the marks of the baggage rubbing against the trees may still be +perceived; and we have decided, in case the guide cannot be procured, +that one of us will take three or four of our most expert woodsmen, +several of our best horses, and an ample supply of provisions, go on two +days’ journey in advance, and endeavor to trace the route by the marks +of the Indian baggage on the trees, which we would then mark more +distinctly with a tomahawk. When they should have reached two days’ +journey beyond Hungry Creek, two of the men were to be sent back to +apprise the rest of their success, and if necessary to cause them to +delay there; lest, by advancing too soon, they should be forced to halt +where no food could be obtained for the horses. If the traces of the +baggage be too indistinct, the whole party is to return to Hungry Creek, +and we will then attempt the passage by ascending the main southwest +branch of Lewis’ River through the country of the Shoshonees, over to +Madison or Gallatin River. On that route, the Chopunnish inform us, +there is a passage not obstructed by snow at this period of the year.” + +On their return to Quamash flats the party met two Indians who, after +some parley, agreed to pilot them over the mountains; these camped where +they were, and the party went on to the flats, having exacted a promise +from the Indians that they would wait there two nights for the white men +to come along. When the party reached their old camp, they found that +one of their hunters had killed a deer, which was a welcome addition +to their otherwise scanty supper. Next day, the hunters met with +astonishing luck, bringing into camp eight deer and three bears. Four of +the men were directed to go to the camp of the two Indians, and if these +were bent on going on, to accompany them and so mark, or blaze, the +trees that the rest of the party would have no difficulty in finding the +way, later on. + +Meanwhile, the men who had been sent back for guides returned, bringing +with them the pleasing information that three Indians whom they brought +with them had consented to guide the party to the great falls of the +Missouri, for the pay of two guns. Accordingly, once more (June 26), +they set out for the mountains, travelling for the third time in twelve +days the route between Quamash flats and the Bitter Root range. For the +second time they ran up against a barrier of snow. They measured the +depth of the snow at the place where they had left their luggage at +their previous repulse and found it to be ten feet and ten inches deep; +and it had sunk four feet since they had been turned back at this point. +Pressing on, after they reached their old camp, they found a bare spot +on the side of the mountain where there was a little grass for their +horses; and there they camped for the night. They were fortunate in +having Indian guides with them; and the journal says:-- + +“The marks on the trees, which had been our chief dependence, are much +fewer and more difficult to be distinguished than we had supposed. But +our guides traverse this trackless region with a kind of instinctive +sagacity; they never hesitate, they are never embarrassed; and so +undeviating is their step, that wherever the snow has disappeared, for +even a hundred paces, we find the summer road. With their aid the snow +is scarcely a disadvantage; for though we are often obliged to slip +down, yet the fallen timber and the rocks, which are now covered, were +much more troublesome when we passed in the autumn. Travelling is indeed +comparatively pleasant, as well as more rapid, the snow being hard and +coarse, without a crust, and perfectly hard enough to prevent the horses +sinking more than two or three inches. After the sun has been on it for +some hours it becomes softer than it is early in the morning; yet they +are almost always able to get a sure foothold.” + +On the twenty-ninth of June the party were well out of the snows in +which they had been imprisoned, although they were by no means over the +mountain barrier that had been climbed so painfully during the past few +days. Here they observed the tracks of two barefooted Indians who had +evidently been fleeing from their enemies, the Pahkees. These signs +disturbed the Indian guides, for they at once said that the tracks were +made by their friends, the Ootlashoots, and that the Pahkees would +also cut them (the guides) off on their return from the trip over the +mountains. On the evening of the day above mentioned, the party camped +at the warm springs which fall into Traveller’s-rest Creek, a point +now well known to the explorers, who had passed that way before. Of the +springs the journal says:-- + +“These warm springs are situated at the foot of a hill on the north side +of Traveller’s-rest Creek, which is ten yards wide at this place. They +issue from the bottoms, and through the interstices of a gray freestone +rock, which rises in irregular masses round their lower side. The +principal spring, which the Indians have formed into a bath by stopping +the run with stone and pebbles, is about the same temperature as the +warmest bath used at the hot springs in Virginia. On trying, Captain +Lewis could with difficulty remain in it nineteen minutes, and then was +affected with a profuse perspiration. The two other springs are much +hotter, the temperature being equal to that of the warmest of the hot +springs in Virginia. Our men, as well as the Indians, amused themselves +with going into the bath; the latter, according to their universal +custom, going first into the hot bath, where they remain as long as they +can bear the heat, then plunging into the creek, which is now of an icy +coldness, and repeating this operation several times, but always ending +with the warm bath.” + +Traveller’s-rest Creek, it will be recollected, is on the summit of the +Bitter Root Mountains, and the expedition had consequently passed from +Idaho into Montana, as these States now exist on the map; but they were +still on the Pacific side of the Great Divide, or the backbone of +the continent. Much game was seen in this region, and after reaching +Traveller’s-rest Creek, the hunters killed six deer; great numbers of +elk and bighorn were also seen in this vicinity. On the thirtieth of +July the party were at their old camp of September 9 and 10, 1805, +having made one hundred and fifty-six miles from Quamash flats to the +mouth of the creek where they now camped. Here a plan to divide and +subdivide the party was made out as follows:-- + +“Captain Lewis, with nine men, is to pursue the most direct route to the +falls of the Missouri, where three of his party (Thompson, Goodrich, and +McNeal) are to be left to prepare carriages for transporting the baggage +and canoes across the portage. With the remaining six, he will ascend +Maria’s River to explore the country and ascertain whether any branch +of it reaches as far north as latitude 50'0, after which he will descend +that river to its mouth. The rest of the men will accompany Captain +Clark to the head of Jefferson River, which Sergeant Ordway and a party +of nine men will descend, with the canoes and other articles deposited +there. Captain Clark’s party, which will then be reduced to ten men and +Sacajawea, will proceed to the Yellowstone, at its nearest approach to +the Three Forks of the Missouri. There he will build canoes, go down +that river with seven of his party, and wait at its mouth till the rest +of the party join him. Sergeant Pryor, with two others, will then take +the horses by land to the Mandans. From that nation he will go to the +British posts on the Assiniboin with a letter to Mr. Alexander Henry, +to procure his endeavors to prevail on some of the Sioux chiefs to +accompany him to the city of Washington. . . . + +“The Indians who had accompanied us intended leaving us in order to seek +their friends, the Ootlashoots; but we prevailed on them to accompany +Captain Lewis a part of his route, so as to show him the shortest road +to the Missouri, and in the mean time amused them with conversation and +running races, on foot and with horses, in both of which they proved +themselves hardy, athletic, and active. To the chief Captain Lewis gave +a small medal and a gun, as a reward for having guided us across the +mountains; in return the customary civility of exchanging names passed +between them, by which the former acquired the title of Yomekollick, of +White Bearskin Unfolded.” + + + + +Chapter XXIV -- The Expedition Subdivided + +On the third of July, accordingly, Captain Lewis, with nine of his men +and five Indians, proceeded down the valley lying between the Rocky +and the Bitter Root ranges of mountains, his general course being due +northwest of Clark’s fork of the Columbia River. Crossing several small +streams that make into this river, they finally reached and crossed the +Missoula River from west to east, below the confluence of the St. Mary’s +and Hell-gate rivers, or creeks; for these streams hardly deserve the +name of rivers. The party camped for the night within a few miles of the +site of the present city of Missoula, Montana. Here they were forced to +part from their good friends and allies, the Indians, who had crossed +the range with them. These men were afraid that they would be cut off by +their foes, the Pahkees, and they wanted to find and join some band +of the Indian nation with whom they were on terms of friendship. The +journal gives this account of the parting:-- + +“We now smoked a farewell pipe with our estimable companions, who +expressed every emotion of regret at parting with us; which they felt +the more, because they did not conceal their fears of our being cut off +by the Pahkees. We also gave them a shirt, a handkerchief, and a small +quantity of ammunition. The meat which they received from us was dried +and left at this place, as a store during the homeward journey. This +circumstance confirms our belief that there is no route along Clark’s +River to the Columbian plains so near or so good as that by which we +came; for, though these people mean to go for several days’ journey +down that river, to look for the Shalees (Ootlashoots), yet they intend +returning home by the same pass of the mountains through which they have +conducted us. This route is also used by all the nations whom we know +west of the mountains who are in the habit of visiting the plains of +the Missouri; while on the other side, all the war-paths of the +Pahkees which fall into this valley of Clark’s River concentre at +Traveller’s-rest, beyond which these people have never ventured to the +west.” + +During the next day or two, Captain Lewis kept on the same general +course through a well-watered country, the ground gradually rising as he +approached the base of the mountains. Tracks of Indians, supposed to +be Pahkees, became more numerous and fresh. On the seventh of July, the +little company went through the famous pass of the Rocky Mountains, now +properly named for the leaders of the expedition. Here is the journal’s +account of their finding the Lewis and Clark Pass:-- + +“At the distance of twelve miles we left the river, or rather the +creek, and having for four miles crossed two ridges in a direction north +fifteen degrees east, again struck to the right, proceeding through +a narrow bottom covered with low willows and grass, and abundantly +supplied with both deer and beaver. After travelling seven miles we +reached the foot of a ridge, which we ascended in a direction north +forty-five degrees east, through a low gap of easy ascent from the +westward; and, on descending it, were delighted at discovering that this +was the dividing ridge between the waters of the Columbia and those of +the Missouri. From this gap Fort Mountain is about twenty miles in a +northeastern direction. We now wound through the hills and mountains, +passing several rivulets which ran to the right, and at the distance +of nine miles from the gap encamped, having made thirty-two miles. We +procured some beaver, and this morning saw tracks of buffalo, from which +it appears that those animals do sometimes penetrate a short distance +among the mountains.” + +Next day the party found themselves in clover, so to speak. Game was +plenty, and, as their object now was to accumulate meat for the three +men who were to be left at the falls (and who were not hunters), they +resolved to strike the Medicine, or Sun, River and hunt down its banks. +On that river the journal, July 10, has this to say:-- + +“In the plains are great quantities of two species of prickly-pear now +in bloom. Gooseberries of the common red kind are in abundance and just +beginning to ripen, but there are no currants. The river has now widened +to one hundred yards; it is deep, crowded with islands, and in many +parts rapid. At the distance of seventeen miles, the timber disappears +totally from the river-bottoms. About this part of the river, the wind, +which had blown on our backs, and constantly put the elk on their guard, +shifted round; we then shot three of them and a brown bear. Captain +Lewis halted to skin them, while two of the men took the pack-horses +forward to seek for a camp. It was nine o’clock before he overtook them, +at the distance of seven miles, in the first grove of cottonwood. They +had been pursued as they came along by a very large bear, on which they +were afraid to fire, lest their horses, being unaccustomed to the gun, +might take fright and throw them. This circumstance reminds us of +the ferocity of these animals, when we were last near this place, and +admonishes us to be very cautious. We saw vast numbers of buffalo below +us, which kept up a dreadful bellowing during the night. With all our +exertions we were unable to advance more than twenty-four miles, owing +to the mire through which we are obliged to travel, in consequence of +the rain.” + +The Sun, or Medicine, River empties into the Missouri just above the +great falls of that stream; and near here, opposite White Bear Islands, +the expedition had deposited some of their property in a cache dug +near the river bank, when they passed that way, a year before. On the +thirteenth of the month, having reached their old camping-ground here, +the party set to work making boat-gear and preparing to leave their +comrades in camp well fixed for their stay. The journal adds:-- + +“On opening the cache, we found the bearskins entirely destroyed by the +water, which in a flood of the river had penetrated to them. All the +specimens of plants, too, were unfortunately lost: the chart of the +Missouri, however, still remained unhurt, and several articles contained +in trunks and boxes had suffered but little injury; but a vial of +laudanum had lost its stopper, and the liquid had run into a drawer +of medicines, which it spoiled beyond recovery. The mosquitoes were +so troublesome that it was impossible even to write without a mosquito +bier. The buffalo were leaving us fast, on their way to the southeast.” + +One of the party met with an amusing adventure here, which is thus +described:-- + +“At night M’Neal, who had been sent in the morning to examine the cache +at the lower end of the portage, returned; but had been prevented from +reaching that place by a singular adventure. Just as he arrived near +Willow run, he approached a thicket of brush in which was a white bear, +which he did not discover till he was within ten feet of him. His horse +started, and wheeling suddenly round, threw M’Neal almost immediately +under the bear, which started up instantly. Finding the bear raising +himself on his hind feet to attack him, he struck him on the head with +the butt end of his musket; the blow was so violent that it broke the +breech of the musket and knocked the bear to the ground. Before he +recovered M’Neal, seeing a willow-tree close by, sprang up, and there +remained while the bear closely guarded the foot of the tree until late +in the afternoon. He then went off; M’Neal being released came down, +and having found his horse, which had strayed off to the distance of +two miles, returned to camp. These animals are, indeed, of a most +extraordinary ferocity, and it is matter of wonder that in all our +encounters we have had the good fortune to escape. We are now +troubled with another enemy, not quite so dangerous, though even more +disagreeable-these are the mosquitoes, who now infest us in such myriads +that we frequently get them into our throats when breathing, and the dog +even howls with the torture they occasion.” + +The intention of Captain Lewis was to reach the river sometimes known as +Maria’s, and sometimes as Marais, or swamp. This stream rises near the +boundary between Montana and the British possessions, and flows into the +Missouri, where the modern town of Ophir is built. The men left at the +great falls were to dig up the canoes and baggage that had been cached +there the previous year, and be ready to carry around the portage of +the falls the stuff that would be brought from the two forks of the +Jefferson, later on, by Sergeant Ordway and his party. It will be +recollected that this stuff had also been cached at the forks of the +Jefferson, the year before. The two parties, thus united, were to go +down to the entrance of Maria’s River into the Missouri, and Captain +Lewis expected to join them there by the fifth of August; if he failed +to meet them by that time, they were to go on down the river and meet +Captain Clark at the mouth of the Yellowstone. This explanation is +needed to the proper understanding of the narrative that follows; for we +now have to keep track of three parties of the explorers. + +Captain Lewis and his men, having travelled northwest about twenty miles +from the great falls of the Missouri, struck the trail of a wounded +buffalo. They were dismayed by the sight, for that assured them that +there were Indians in the vicinity; and the most natural thing to expect +was that these were Blackfeet, or Minnetarees; both of these tribes are +vicious and rascally people, and they would not hesitate to attack a +small party and rob them of their guns, if they thought themselves able +to get away with them. + +They were now in the midst of vast herds of buffalo, so numerous that +the whole number seemed one immense herd. Hanging on the flanks were +many wolves; hares and antelope were also abundant. On the fourth day +out, Captain Lewis struck the north fork of Maria’s River, now known as +Cut-bank River, in the northwest corner of Montana. He was desirous +of following up the stream, to ascertain, if possible, whether its +fountain-head was below, or above, the boundary between the United +States and the British possessions. Bad weather and an accident to +his chronometer prevented his accomplishing his purpose, and, on the +twenty-sixth of July, he turned reluctantly back, giving the name of +Cape Disappointment to his last camping-place. Later in that day, +as they were travelling down the main stream (Maria’s River), they +encountered the Indians whom they had hoped to avoid. Let us read the +story as it is told in the journal of the party:-- + +“At the distance of three miles we ascended the hills close to the +river-side, while Drewyer pursued the valley of the river on the +opposite side. But scarcely had Captain Lewis reached the high plain +when he saw, about a mile on his left, a collection of about thirty +horses. He immediately halted, and by the aid of his spy-glass +discovered that one-half of the horses were saddled, and that on the +eminence above the horses several Indians were looking down toward +the river, probably at Drewyer. This was a most unwelcome sight. Their +probable numbers rendered any contest with them of doubtful issue; to +attempt to escape would only invite pursuit, and our horses were so bad +that we must certainly be overtaken; besides which, Drewyer could not +yet be aware that the Indians were near, and if we ran he would most +probably be sacrificed. We therefore determined to make the most of our +situation, and advance toward them in a friendly manner. The flag which +we had brought in case of any such accident was therefore displayed, and +we continued slowly our march toward them. Their whole attention was so +engaged by Drewyer that they did not immediately discover us. As soon +as they did see us, they appeared to be much alarmed and ran about in +confusion; some of them came down the hill and drove their horses within +gunshot of the eminence, to which they then returned, as if to await +our arrival. When we came within a quarter of a mile, one of the Indians +mounted and rode at full speed to receive us; but when within a hundred +paces of us, he halted. Captain Lewis, who had alighted to receive him, +held out his hand and beckoned to him to approach; he only looked at +us for some time, and then, without saying a word, returned to his +companions with as much haste as he had advanced. The whole party now +descended the hill and rode toward us. As yet we saw only eight, but +presumed that there must be more behind us, as there were several horses +saddled. We however advanced, and Captain Lewis now told his two men +that he believed these were the Minnetarees of Fort de Prairie, who, +from their infamous character, would in all probability attempt to +rob us; but being determined to die rather than lose his papers and +instruments, he intended to resist to the last extremity, and advised +them to do the same, and to be on the alert should there be any +disposition to attack us. When the two parties came within a hundred +yards of each other, all the Indians, except one, halted. Captain Lewis +therefore ordered his two men to halt while he advanced, and after +shaking hands with the Indian, went on and did the same with the others +in the rear, while the Indian himself shook hands with the two men. They +all now came up; and after alighting, the Indians asked to smoke with +us. Captain Lewis, who was very anxious for Drewyer’s safety, told them +that the man who had gone down the river had the pipe, and requested +that as they had seen him, one of them would accompany R. Fields, to +bring him back. To this they assented, and Fields went with a young man +in search of Drewyer.” + +Captain Lewis now asked them by signs if they were Minnetarees of the +north, and he was sorry to be told in reply that they were; he knew +them to be a bad lot. When asked if they had any chief among them, they +pointed out three. The captain did not believe them, but, in order to +keep on good terms with them, he gave to one a flag, to another a medal, +and to the third a handkerchief. At Captain Lewis’ suggestion, the +Indians and the white men camped together, and in the course of the +evening the red men told the captain that they were part of a big +band of their tribe, or nation. The rest of the tribe, they said, were +hunting further up the river, and were then in camp near the foot of the +Rocky Mountains. The captain, in return, told them that his party had +come from the great lake where the sun sets, and that he was in hopes +that he could induce the Minnetarees to live in peace with their +neighbors and come and trade at the posts that would be established in +their country by and by. He offered them ten horses and some tobacco if +they would accompany his party down the river below the great falls. To +this they made no reply. Being still suspicious of these sullen guests, +Captain Lewis made his dispositions for the night, with orders for the +sentry on duty to rouse all hands if the Indians should attempt to steal +anything in the night. Next morning trouble began. Says the journal:-- + +“At sunrise, the Indians got up and crowded around the fire near which +J. Fields, who was then on watch, had carelessly left his rifle, near +the head of his brother, who was still asleep. One of the Indians +slipped behind him, and, unperceived, took his brother’s and his own +rifle, while at the same time two others seized those of Drewyer and +Captain Lewis. As soon as Fields turned, he saw the Indian running off +with the rifles; instantly calling his brother, they pursued him for +fifty or sixty yards; just as they overtook him, in the scuffle for +the rifles R. Fields stabbed him through the heart with his knife. The +Indian ran about fifteen steps and fell dead. They now ran back with +their rifles to the camp. The moment the fellow touched his gun, +Drewyer, who was awake, jumped up and wrested it from him. The noise +awoke Captain Lewis, who instantly started from the ground and reached +for his gun; but finding it gone, drew a pistol from his belt, and +turning saw the Indian running off with it. He followed him and ordered +him to lay it down, which he did just as the two Fields came up, and +were taking aim to shoot him; when Captain Lewis ordered them not to +fire, as the Indian did not appear to intend any mischief. He dropped +the gun and was going slowly off when Drewyer came out and asked +permission to kill him; but this Captain Lewis forbade, as he had +not yet attempted to shoot us. But finding that the Indians were now +endeavoring to drive off all the horses, he ordered all three of us to +follow the main party, who were chasing the horses up the river, and +fire instantly upon the thieves; while he, without taking time to +run for his shot-pouch, pursued the fellow who had stolen his gun and +another Indian, who were driving away the horses on the left of the +camp. He pressed them so closely that they left twelve of their horses, +but continued to drive off one of our own. + +“At the distance of three hundred paces they entered a steep niche in +the river-bluffs, when Captain Lewis, being too much out of breath +to pursue them any further, called out, as he had done several times +before, that unless they gave up the horse he would shoot them. As he +raised his gun one of the Indians jumped behind a rock and spoke to the +other, who stopped at the distance of thirty paces. Captain Lewis shot +him in the belly. He fell on his knees and right elbow; but, raising +himself a little, fired, and then crawled behind a rock. The shot had +nearly proved fatal; for Captain Lewis, who was bareheaded, felt the +wind of the ball very distinctly. Not having his shot-pouch, he could +not reload his rifle; and, having only a single charge also for his +pistol, he thought it most prudent not to attack them farther, and +retired slowly to the camp. He was met by Drewyer, who, hearing the +report of the guns, had come to his assistance, leaving the Fields to +follow the other Indians. Captain Lewis ordered him to call out to them +to desist from the pursuit, as we could take the horses of the Indians +in place of our own; but they were at too great a distance to hear him. +He therefore returned to the camp, and while he was saddling the horses +the Fields returned with four of our own, having followed the Indians +until two of them swam the river and two others ascended the hills, so +that the horses became dispersed.” + +The white men were gainers by this sad affair, for they had now in their +possession four of the Indians’ horses, and had lost one of their own. +Besides these, they found in the camp of the Indians four shields, two +bows and their quivers, and one of their two guns. The captain took +some buffalo meat which he found in the camp, and then the rest of their +baggage was burned on the spot. The flag given to one of the so-called +chiefs was retaken; but the medal given to the dead man was left +around his neck. The consequences of this unfortunate quarrel were +far-reaching. The tribe whose member was killed by the white men never +forgave the injury, and for years after there was no safety for white +men in their vicinity except when the wayfarers were in great numbers or +strongly guarded. + +A forced march was now necessary for the explorers, and they set out as +speedily as possible, well knowing that the Indians would be on their +trail. By three o’clock in the afternoon of that day they had reached +Tansy River, now known as the Teton, having travelled sixty-three miles. +They rested for an hour and a half to refresh their horses, and then +pushed on for seventeen miles further before camping again. Having +killed a buffalo, they had supper and stopped two hours. Then, +travelling through vast herds of buffalo until two o’clock in the +morning, they halted again, almost dead with fatigue; they rested until +daylight. On awaking, they found themselves so stiff and sore with much +riding that they could scarcely stand. But the lives of their friends +now at or near the mouth of Maria’s River were at stake, as well as +their own. Indeed, it was not certain but that the Indians had, by hard +riding and a circuitous route, already attacked the river party left at +the falls. So Captain Lewis told his men that they must go on, and, +if attacked, they must tie their horses together by the head and stand +together, selling their lives as dearly as possible, or routing their +enemies. The journal now says:-- + +“To this they all assented, and we therefore continued our route to +the eastward, till at the distance of twelve miles we came near the +Missouri, when we heard a noise which seemed like the report of a gun. +We therefore quickened our pace for eight miles farther, and, being +about five miles from Grog Spring, now heard distinctly the noise of +several rifles from the river. We hurried to the bank, and saw with +exquisite satisfaction our friends descending the river. They landed +to greet us, and after turning our horses loose, we embarked with our +baggage, and went down to the spot where we had made a deposite. This, +after reconnoitring the adjacent country, we opened; but, unfortunately, +the cache had caved in, and most of the articles were injured. We took +whatever was still worth preserving, and immediately proceeded to the +point, where we found our deposits in good order. By a singular good +fortune, we were here joined by Sergeant Gass and Willard from the +Falls, who had been ordered to come with the horses here to assist in +procuring meat for the voyage, as it had been calculated that the canoes +would reach this place much sooner than Captain Lewis’s party. After a +very heavy shower of rain and hail, attended with violent thunder and +lightning, we started from the point, and giving a final discharge to +our horses, went over to the island where we had left our red pirogue, +which, however, we found much decayed, and we had no means of repairing +her. We therefore took all the iron work out of her, and, proceeding +down the river fifteen miles, encamped near some cottonwood trees, one +of which was of the narrow-leafed species, and the first of that kind we +had remarked in ascending the river. + +“Sergeant Ordway’s party, which had left the mouth of Madison River on +the thirteenth, had descended in safety to White Bear Island, where he +arrived on the nineteenth, and, after collecting the baggage, had left +the falls on the twenty-seventh in the white pirogue and five canoes, +while Sergeant Gass and Willard set out at the same time by land with +the horses, and thus fortunately met together.” + +Sergeant Ordway’s party, it will be recollected, had left Captain Clark +at the three forks of the Missouri, to which they had come down the +Jefferson, and thence had passed down the Missouri to White Bear +Islands, and, making the portage, had joined the rest of the party just +in time to reinforce them. Game was now abundant the buffalo being in +enormous herds; and the bighorn were also numerous; the flesh of these +animals was in fine condition, resembling the best of mutton in flavor. +The reunited party now descended the river, the intention being to reach +the mouth of the Yellowstone as soon as possible, and there wait for +Captain Clark, who, it will be recalled, was to explore that stream and +meet them at the point of its junction with the Missouri. The voyage of +Captain Lewis and his men was without startling incident, except that +Cruzatte accidentally shot the captain, one day, while they were out +hunting. The wound was through the fleshy part of the left thigh, and +for a time was very painful. As Cruzatte was not in sight when the +captain was hit, the latter naturally thought he had been shot by +Indians hiding in the thicket. He reached camp as best he could, and, +telling his men to arm themselves, he explained that he had been shot by +Indians. But when Cruzatte came into camp, mutual explanations satisfied +all hands that a misunderstanding had arisen and that Cruzatte’s unlucky +shot was accidental. As an example of the experience of the party about +this time, while they were on their way down the Missouri, we take this +extract from their journal:-- + +“We again saw great numbers of buffalo, elk, antelope, deer, and wolves; +also eagles and other birds, among which were geese and a solitary +pelican, neither of which can fly at present, as they are now shedding +the feathers of their wings. We also saw several bears, one of them the +largest, except one, we had ever seen; for he measured nine feet from +the nose to the extremity of the tail. During the night a violent +storm came on from the northeast with such torrents of rain that we had +scarcely time to unload the canoes before they filled with water. Having +no shelter we ourselves were completely wet to the skin, and the wind +and cold air made our situation very unpleasant.” + +On the twelfth of August, the Lewis party met with two traders from +Illinois. These men were camped on the northeast side of the river; +they had left Illinois the previous summer, and had been coming up the +Missouri hunting and trapping. Captain Lewis learned from them that +Captain Clark was below; and later in that day the entire expedition was +again united, Captain Clark’s party being found at a point near where +Little Knife Creek enters the Missouri River. We must now take up the +narrative of Captain Clark and his adventures on the Yellowstone. + + + + +Chapter XXV -- Adventures on the Yellowstone + +The route of Captain Clark from the point where he and Captain Lewis +divided their party, was rather more difficult than that pursued by +the Lewis detachment. But the Clark party was larger, being composed of +twenty men and Sacajawea and her baby. They were to travel up the main +fork of Clark’s River (sometimes called the Bitter Root), to Ross’s +Hole, and then strike over the great continental divide at that point by +way of the pass which he discovered and which was named for him; thence +he was to strike the headwaters of Wisdom River, a stream which this +generation of men knows by the vulgar name of Big Hole River; from this +point he was to go by the way of Willard’s Creek to Shoshonee Cove and +the Two Forks of the Jefferson, and thence down that stream to the +Three Forks of the Missouri, up the Gallatin, and over the divide to the +Yellowstone and down that river to its junction with the Missouri, where +he was to join the party of Captain Lewis. This is the itinerary that +was exactly carried out. The very first incident set forth in the +journal is a celebration of Independence Day, as follows:-- + +“Friday, July 4. Early in the morning three hunters were sent out. +The rest of the party having collected the horses and breakfasted, we +proceeded at seven o’clock up the valley, which is now contracted to the +width of from eight to ten miles, with a good proportion of pitch-pine, +though its low lands, as well as the bottoms of the creeks, are strewn +with large stones. We crossed five creeks of different sizes, but of +great depth, and so rapid that in passing the last several of the horses +were driven down the stream, and some of our baggage was wet. Near +this river we saw the tracks of two Indians, whom we supposed to be +Shoshonees. Having made sixteen miles, we halted at an hour for +the purpose of doing honor to the birthday of our early country’s +independence. The festival was not very splendid, for it consisted of a +mush made of cows and a saddle of venison; nor had we anything to tempt +us to prolong it. We therefore went on till at the distance of a mile we +came to a very large creek, which, like all those in the valley, had +an immense rapidity of descent; we therefore proceeded up for some +distance, in order to select the most convenient spot for fording. Even +there, however, such was the violence of the current that, though the +water was not higher than the bellies of the horses, the resistance made +in passing caused the stream to rise over their backs and loads. After +passing the creek we inclined to the left, and soon after struck the +road which we had descended last year, near the spot where we dined on +the 7th of September (1805). Along this road we continued on the west +side of Clark’s River, till at the distance of thirteen miles, during +which we passed three more deep, large creeks, we reached its western +branch, where we camped; and having sent out two hunters, despatched +some men to examine the best ford across the west fork of the river. The +game to-day consisted of four deer; though we also saw a herd of ibex, +or bighorn.” + +Two days later they were high up among the mountains, although the +ascent was not very steep. At that height they found the weather very +cool, so much so that on the morning of the sixth of July, after a cold +night, they had a heavy white frost on the ground. Setting out on that +day, Captain Clark crossed a ridge which proved to be the dividing line +between the Pacific and the Atlantic watershed. At the same time he +passed from what is now Missoula County, Montana, into the present +county of Beaver Head, in that State. “Beaver Head,” the reader will +recollect, comes from a natural elevation in that region resembling the +head of a beaver. These points will serve to fix in one’s mind the +route of the first exploring party that ever ventured into those wilds; +descending the ridge on its eastern slope, the explorers struck Glade +Creek, one of the sources of the stream then named Wisdom River, a +branch of the Jefferson; and the Jefferson is one of the tributaries of +the mighty Missouri. Next day the journal has this entry:-- + +“In the morning our horses were so much scattered that, although we sent +out hunters in every direction to range the country for six or eight +miles, nine of them could not be recovered. They were the most valuable +of all our horses, and so much attached to some of their companions that +it was difficult to separate them in the daytime. We therefore presumed +that they must have been stolen by some roving Indians; and accordingly +left a party of five men to continue the pursuit, while the rest went +on to the spot where the canoes had been deposited. We set out at ten +o’clock and pursued a course S. 56'0 E. across the valley, which we +found to be watered by four large creeks, with extensive low and +miry bottoms; and then reached (and crossed) Wisdom River, along the +northeast side of which we continued, till at the distance of sixteen +miles we came to its three branches. Near that place we stopped for +dinner at a hot spring situated in the open plain. The bed of the spring +is about fifteen yards in circumference, and composed of loose, hard, +gritty stones, through which the water boils in great quantities. It is +slightly impregnated with sulphur, and so hot that a piece of meat about +the size of three fingers was completely done in twenty-five minutes.” + +Next day, July 8, the party reached the forks of the Jefferson River, +where they had cached their goods in August, 1805; they had now +travelled one hundred and sixty-four miles from Traveller’s-rest Creek +to that point. The men were out of tobacco, and as there was some among +the goods deposited in the cache they made haste to open the cache. They +found everything safe, although some of the articles were damp, and a +hole had been made in the bottom of one of the canoes. Here they were +overtaken by Sergeant Ordway and his party with the nine horses that had +escaped during the night of the seventh. + +That night the weather was so cold that water froze in a basin to a +thickness of three-quarters of an inch, and the grass around the camp +was stiff with frost, although the month of July was nearly a week old. +The boats taken from the cache were now loaded, and the explorers were +divided into two bands, one to descend the river by boat and the other +to take the same general route on horseback, the objective point being +the Yellowstone. The story is taken tip here by the journal in these +lines:-- + +“After breakfast (July 10) the two parties set out, those on shore +skirting the eastern side of Jefferson River, through Service (-berry) +Valley and over Rattlesnake Mountain, into a beautiful and extensive +country, known among the Indians by the name of Hahnahappapchah, or +Beaverhead Valley, from the number of those animals to be found in it, +and also from the point of land resembling the head of a beaver. It (the +valley) extends from Rattlesnake Mountain as low as Frazier’s Creek, and +is about fifty miles in length in direct line; while its width varies +from ten to fifteen miles, being watered in its whole course by +Jefferson River and six different creeks. The valley is open and +fertile; besides the innumerable quantities of beaver and otter with +which its creeks are supplied, the bushes of the low grounds are a +favorite resort for deer; while on the higher parts of the valley are +seen scattered groups of antelopes, and still further, on the steep +sides of the mountains, are observed many bighorns, which take refuge +there from the wolves and bears. At the distance of fifteen miles the +two parties stopped to dine; when Captain Clark, finding that the river +became wider and deeper, and that the canoes could advance more rapidly +than the horses, determined to go himself by water, leaving Sergeant +Pryor with six men to bring on the horses. In this way they resumed +their journey after dinner, and camped on the eastern side of the river, +opposite the head of Three-thousand-mile Island. The beaver were basking +in great numbers along the shore; there were also some young wild geese +and ducks. The mosquitoes were very troublesome during the day, but +after sunset the weather became cool and they disappeared.” + +Three-thousand-mile Island was so named by the explorers, when they +ascended these streams, because it was at a point exactly three thousand +miles from the mouth of the Missouri. But no such island exists now; it +has probably been worn away by the swift-rushing current of the river. +The route of Captain Clark and his party, up to this time had been a few +miles west of Bannock City, Montana. As the captain was now to proceed +by land to the Yellowstone, again leaving the canoe party, it is well to +recall the fact that his route from the Three Forks of the Missouri to +the Yellowstone follows pretty nearly the present line of the railroad +from Gallatin City to Livingston, by the way of Bozeman Pass. Of this +route the journal says:-- + +“Throughout the whole, game was very abundant. They procured deer in +the low grounds; beaver and otter were seen in Gallatin River, and elk, +wolves, eagles, hawks, crows, and geese at different parts of the route. +The plain was intersected by several great roads leading to a gap in the +mountains, about twenty miles distant, in a direction E.N.E.; but the +Indian woman, who was acquainted with the country, recommended a gap +more to the southward. This course Captain Clark determined to pursue.” + +Let us pause here to pay a little tribute to the memory of “the Indian +woman,” Sacajawea. She showed that she was very observant, had a good +memory, and was plucky and determined when in trouble. She was the guide +of the exploring party when she was in a region of country, as here, +with which she was familiar. She remembered localities which she had +not seen since her childhood. When their pirogue was upset by the +carelessness of her husband, it was she who saved the goods and helped +to right the boat. And, with her helpless infant clinging to her, she +rode with the men, guiding them with unerring skill through the mountain +fastnesses and lonely passes which the white men saw for the first time +when their salient features were pointed out to them by the intelligent +and faithful Sacajawea. The Indian woman has long since departed to the +Happy Hunting-Grounds of her fathers; only her name and story remain +to us who follow the footsteps of the brave pioneers of the western +continent. But posterity should not forget the services which were +rendered to the white race by Sacajawea. + +On the fifteenth of July the party arrived at the ridge that divides +the Missouri and the Yellowstone, nine miles from which they reached +the river itself, about a mile and a half from the point where it +issues from the Rocky Mountains. Their journey down the valley of the +Yellowstone was devoid of special interest, but was accompanied with +some hardships. For example, the feet of the horses had become so sore +with long travel over a stony trail that it was necessary to shoe them +with raw buffalo hide. Rain fell frequently and copiously; and often, +sheltered at night only by buffalo hides, they rose in the morning +drenched to the skin. The party could not follow the course of the river +very closely, but were compelled often to cross hills that came down to +the bank, making the trail impassable for horses. Here is the story of +July 18 and 19:-- + +“Gibson, one of the party, was so badly hurt by falling on a sharp point +of wood that he was unable to sit on his horse, and they were obliged +to form a sort of litter for him, so that he could lie nearly at full +length. The wound became so painful, however, after proceeding a short +distance, that he could not bear the motion, and they left him with two +men, while Captain Clark went to search for timber large enough to form +canoes. He succeeded in finding some trees of sufficient size for small +canoes, two of which he determined to construct, and by lashing them +together hoped to make them answer the purpose of conveying the party +down the river, while a few of his men should conduct the horses to the +Mandans. All hands, therefore, were set busily to work, and they were +employed in this labor for several days. In the mean time no less than +twenty-four of their horses were missing, and they strongly suspected +had been stolen by the Indians, for they were unable to find them, +notwithstanding they made the most diligent search.” + +“July 23. A piece of a robe and a moccasin,” says the journal, “were +discovered this morning not far from the camp. The moccasin was worn out +in the sole, and yet wet, and had every appearance of having been left +but a few hours before. This was conclusive that the Indians had taken +our horses, and were still prowling about for the remainder, which +fortunately escaped last night by being in a small prairie surrounded by +thick timber. At length Labiche, one of our best trackers, returned from +a very wide circuit, and informed Captain Clark that he had traced +the horses bending their course rather down the river towards the open +plains, and from their tracks, must have been going very rapidly. All +hopes of recovering them were now abandoned. Nor were the Indians the +only plunderers around our camp; for in the night the wolves or dogs +stole the greater part of the dried meat from the scaffold. The wolves, +which constantly attend the buffalo, were here in great numbers, as this +seemed to be the commencement of the buffalo country. . . . + +“At noon the two canoes were finished. They were twenty-eight feet long, +sixteen or eighteen inches deep, and from sixteen to twenty-four inches +wide; and, having lashed them together, everything was ready for setting +out the next day, Gibson having now recovered. Sergeant Pryor was +directed, with Shannon and Windsor, to take the remaining horses to the +Mandans, and if he should find that Mr. Henry (a trading-post agent) +was on the Assiniboin River, to go thither and deliver him a letter, the +object of which was to prevail on the most distinguished chiefs of the +Sioux to accompany him to Washington.” + +On a large island near the mouth of a creek now known as Canyon Creek, +the party landed to explore an extensive Indian lodge which seems to +have been built for councils, rather than for a place of residence. The +lodge was shaped like a cone, sixty feet in diameter at the base and +tapering towards the top. The poles of which it was constructed were +forty-five feet long. The interior was strangely decorated, the tops of +the poles being ornamented with eagles’ feathers, and from the centre +hung a stuffed buffalo-hide. A buffalo’s head and other trophies of +the chase were disposed about the wigwam. The valley, as the explorers +descended the river, was very picturesque and wonderful. On the north +side the cliffs were wild and romantic, and these were soon succeeded by +rugged hills, and these, in turn, by open plains on which were descried +herds of buffalo, elk, and wolves. On the twenty-seventh of July, having +reached the Bighorn, one of the largest tributaries of the Yellowstone, +the party have this entry in their journal:-- + +“They again set out very early, and on leaving the Bighorn took a last +look at the Rocky Mountains, which had been constantly in view from the +first of May. The (Yellowstone) river now widens to the extent of from +four hundred to six hundred yards; it is much divided by islands and +sandbars; its banks are generally low and falling in; it thus resembles +the Missouri in many particulars, but its islands are more numerous, +its waters less muddy, and the current is more rapid. The water is of +a yellowish-white, and the round stones, which form the bars above the +Bighorn, have given place to gravel. On the left side the river runs +under cliffs of light, soft, gritty stone, varying in height from +seventy to one hundred feet, behind which are level and extensive +plains. On the right side of the river are low extensive bottoms, +bordered with cottonwood, various species of willow, rose-bushes, +grapevines, redberry or buffalo-grease bushes, and a species of sumach; +to these succeed high grounds supplied with pine, and still further on +are level plains. Throughout the country are vast quantities of buffalo, +which, as this is the running-season, keep up a continued bellowing. +Large herds of elk also are lying on every point, so gentle that they +may be approached within twenty paces without being alarmed. Several +beaver were seen in the course of the day; indeed, there is a greater +appearance of those animals than there was above the Bighorn. Deer, +however, are by no means abundant, and antelopes, as well as bighorns, +are scarce.” + +It is noticeable that the explorers, all along their route, gave to +streams, rocks, mountains, and other natural features of the country +many names that appear to us meaningless and trifling. It would appear +that they used up all the big names, such as Jefferson, Gallatin, +Philosophy, Philanthropy, and the like, and were compelled to use, +first, the names of their own party, and then such titles as were +suggested by trifling incidents. For example, when they reached a +difficult shoal on the Yellowstone River, they named that Buffalo Shoal +because they found a buffalo on it; and Buffalo Shoal it remains unto +this day. In like manner, when they reached a dangerous rapid, twenty +miles below that point, they saw a bear standing on a rock in the +stream; and Bear Rapid the place was and is named. Bear and buffalo +were pretty numerous all the way along that part of the river which they +navigated in July. They had now rejoined the boats, and on the last day +of July, when camped at a point two miles above Wolf Rapid (so called +from seeing a wolf there), the buffalo were continually prowling about +the camp at night, exciting much alarm lest they should trample on the +boats and ruin them. In those days, buffalo were so numerous that they +were a nuisance to travellers; and they were so free from fear of man +that they were too familiar with the camps and equipage. On the first of +August we find this entry in the journal of the party:-- + +“The buffalo now appear in vast numbers. A herd happened to be on their +way across the river. Such was the multitude of these animals that, +though the river, including an island over which they passed, was a mile +wide, the herd stretched, as thickly as they could swim, from one +side to the other, and the party was obliged to stop for an hour. They +consoled themselves for the delay by killing four of the herd; and then +having proceeded for the distance of forty-five miles (in all to-day) +to an island, below which two other herds of buffalo, as numerous as the +first, soon after crossed the river.” + +Again, on the very next day, we find this entry:-- + +“The river was now about a mile wide, less rapid, and more divided by +islands, and bars of sand and mud, than heretofore; the low grounds, +too, were more extensive, and contained a greater quantity of +cottonwood, ash, and willows. On the northwest was a low, level plain, +and on the southeast some rugged hills, on which we saw, without being +able to approach them, some bighorns. Buffalo and elk, as well as their +pursuers, the wolves, were in great numbers. On each side of the +river there were several dry beds of streams, but the only one of any +considerable size was one to which they gave the name of Ibex River, +on the right, about thirty yards wide, and sixteen miles from their +encampment of the preceding night. The bear, which had given them so +much trouble at the head of the Missouri, they found equally fierce +here. One of these animals, which was on a sand-bar as the boat passed, +raised himself on his hind feet, and after looking at the party for a +moment, plunged in and swam towards them; but, after receiving three +balls in the body, he turned and made for the shore. Towards evening +they saw another enter the water to swim across; when Captain Clark +directed the boat towards the shore, and just as the animal landed shot +it in the head. It proved to be the largest female they had ever seen, +and was so old that its tusks were worn quite smooth. The boats escaped +with difficulty between two herds of buffalo that were crossing the +river, and came near being again detained by them. Among the elk of this +neighborhood they saw an unusual number of males, while higher up the +herds consisted chiefly of females.” + +It is almost incredible that these wild animals should have been so +nearly exterminated by hunters and other rovers of the plains, very soon +after travel set in across the continent. The writer of these lines, who +crossed the plains to California so lately as 1856, saw buffalo +killed for the sake of their tongues, or to give rifle practice to +the wayfarers. After the overland railroad was opened, passengers shot +buffalo from the car-windows, well knowing that they could not get their +game, even if they should kill as they flew by a herd. There are no +buffalo nor elk where millions once roamed almost unmolested. + +Early in the afternoon of August 3, the party reached the junction of +the Yellowstone and the Missouri, and camped on the same spot where they +had pitched their tents on the 26th of April, 1805. They were nearing +the end of their long journey. + +But their troubles thickened as they drew near the close of their many +miles of travel. The journal for August 4 has this record:-- + +“The camp became absolutely uninhabitable in consequence of the +multitude of mosquitoes; the men could not work in preparing skins for +clothing, nor hunt in the timbered low grounds; there was no mode of +escape, except by going on the sand-bars in the river, where, if the +wind should blow, the insects do not venture; but when there is no wind, +and particularly at night, when the men have no covering except their +worn-out blankets, the pain they suffer is scarcely to be endured. There +was also a want of meat, for no buffalo were to be found; and though elk +are very abundant, yet their fat and flesh is more difficult to dry in +the sun, and is also much more easily spoiled than the meat or fat of +either deer or buffalo. + +“Captain Clark therefore determined to go on to some spot which should +be free from mosquitoes and furnish more game. Having written a note to +Captain Lewis, to inform him of his intention, and stuck it on a pole +at the confluence of the two rivers, he loaded the canoes at five in the +afternoon, proceeded down the river to the second point, and camped on +a sand-bar; but here the mosquitoes seemed to be even more numerous +than above. The face of the Indian child was considerably puffed up +and swollen with their bites; the men could procure scarcely any sleep +during the night, and the insects continued to harass them next morning, +as they proceeded. On one occasion Captain Clark went on shore and +ascended a hill after one of the bighorns; but the mosquitoes were in +such multitudes that he could not keep them from the barrel of his rifle +long enough to take aim. About ten o’clock, however, a light breeze +sprung up from the northwest, and dispersed them in some degree. Captain +Clark then landed on a sand-bar, intending to wait for Captain Lewis, +and went out to hunt. But not finding any buffalo, he again proceeded in +the afternoon; and having killed a large white bear, camped under a high +bluff exposed to a light breeze from the southwest, which blew away the +mosquitoes. About eleven o’clock, however, the wind became very high and +a storm of rain came on, which lasted for two hours, accompanied with +sharp lightning and loud peals of thunder. + +“The party rose, next day, very wet, and proceeded to a sand-bar below +the entrance of Whiteearth River. Just above this place the Indians, +apparently within seven, or eight days past, had been digging a root +which they employ in making a kind of soup. Having fixed their tents, +the men were employed in dressing skins and hunting. They shot a number +of deer; but only two of them were fat, owing probably to the great +quantities of mosquitoes which annoy them while feeding.” + +On the eleventh of August the Clark party came up with the two white +traders from Illinois, of whom we have already made mention as having +been met by the Lewis party on their way down the river. These were the +first white men they had seen (except themselves) since they parted with +the three French trappers, near the Little Missouri, in April, 1805, +From them the wayworn voyagers received the latest news from the United +States. From them they also had some unfavorable tidings. The journal +says:-- + +“These men had met the boat which we had despatched from Fort Mandan, +on board of which, they were told, was a Ricara chief on his way to +Washington; and also another party of Yankton chiefs, accompanying Mr. +Durion on a visit of the same kind. We were sorry to learn that the +Mandans and Minnetarees were at war with the Ricaras, and had killed two +of them. The Assiniboins too are at war with the Mandans. They have, +in consequence, prohibited the Northwestern Company from trading to the +Missouri, and even killed two of their traders near Mouse River; they +are now lying in wait for Mr. McKenzie of the Northwestern Company, who +has been for a long time among the Minnetarees. These appearances are +rather unfavorable to our project of carrying some of the chiefs to the +United States; but we still hope that, by effecting a peace between the +Mandans, Minnetarees, and Ricaras, the views of our Government may be +accomplished.” + +Next day, August 12, 1806, the party, slowly descending the river, were +overjoyed to see below them the little flotilla of Captain Lewis and his +men. But they were alarmed when they discovered that Lewis was not with +them; as the boats landed at the shore, the captain was not to be seen. +Captain Clark’s party, on coming up with their friends, were told that +Lewis was lying in the pirogue, having been accidentally wounded. The +whole party were now happily reunited, and they were soon joined by the +two Illinois traders whom they had met up the river; these men wished to +accompany the expedition down the river as far as the Mandan nation, +for the purpose of trading; they were more secure with a large party of +white men than they would be if left to themselves. + + + + +Chapter XXVI -- The End of a Long Journey + +The reunited party now set out for the lower river and proceeded rapidly +down-stream, favored with a good wind. They made eighty-six miles on +the first day, passing the mouth of the Little Missouri early in the +forenoon, and camping at Miry River, on the northeast side of the +Missouri. On the second day they arrived at the principal village of the +Minnetarees, where they were received with cordial welcome by their old +friends. The explorers fired their blunderbuss several times by way of +salute, and the Indian chiefs expressed their satisfaction at the safe +return of the white men. One of the Minnetaree chiefs, however, wept +bitterly at the sight of the whites, and it was explained by his friends +that their coming reminded him of the death of his son, who had been +lately killed by the Blackfoot Indians. + +Arriving at the village of the Mandans, of which Black Cat was the +chief, a council was called, and the chiefs of the expedition endeavored +to persuade some of the leading men of the tribe to accompany them to +Washington to see “the Great Father.” Black Cat expressed his strong +desire to visit the United States and see the Great Father, but he was +afraid of the Sioux, their ancient enemies, through whose territory they +must pass on their way down to the white man’s country. This chief, it +will be recollected, was given a flag and a medal by the two captains +when they passed up the river on their way to the Rocky Mountains and +the Pacific coast. The flag was now brought on and hoisted on the lodge +of Black Cat. On that occasion, also, the commanders of the expedition +had given the Indians a number of useful articles, among them being a +portable corn-mill. But the Indians had other uses for metal, and they +had taken the mill apart and used the iron for the purpose of making +barbs for their arrows. From the Omahas, who were located here, the +white men received a present of as much corn as three men could carry. +Black Cat also gave them a dozen bushels of corn. + +Their days of starvation and famine were over. They were next visited +by Le Borgne, better known as One-eye, the head chief of all the +Minnetarees, to whom Lewis and Clark also extended an invitation to go +to Washington to see the Great Father. The journal says:-- + +“Le Borgne began by declaring that he much desired to visit his Great +Father, but that the Sioux would certainly kill any of the Mandans who +should attempt to go down the river. They were bad people, and would not +listen to any advice. When he saw us last, we had told him that we had +made peace with all the nations below; yet the Sioux had since killed +eight of his tribe, and stolen a number of their horses. The Ricaras too +had stolen their horses, and in the contest his people had killed two +of the Ricaras. Yet in spite of these dispositions he had always had +his ears open to our counsels, and had actually made a peace with +the Chayennes and the Indians of the Rocky Mountains. He concluded by +saying, that however disposed they were to visit the United States, the +fear of the Sioux would prevent them from going with us.” + +The truth was that One-eye had no notion of going to Washington; he was +afraid of nobody, and his plea of possible danger among the Sioux +was mere nonsense to deceive the white men. Captain Clark visited the +village of Black Cat, and that worthy savage made the same excuse that +Le Borgne (One-eye) had already put forth; he was afraid of the Sioux. +The journal adds:-- + +“Captain Clark then spoke to the chiefs and warriors of the village. +He told them of his anxiety that some of them should see their Great +Father, hear his good words, and receive his gifts; and requested them +to fix on some confidential chief who might accompany us. To this they +made the same objections as before; till at length a young man offered +to go, and the warriors all assented to it. But the character of +this man was known to be bad; and one of the party with Captain Clark +informed him that at the moment he (this Indian) had in his possession +a knife which he had stolen. Captain Clark therefore told the chief of +this theft, and ordered the knife to be given up. This was done with +a poor apology for having it in his possession, and Captain Clark then +reproached the chiefs for wishing to send such a fellow to see and hear +so distinguished a person as their Great Father. They all hung down +their heads for some time, till Black Cat apologized by saying that +the danger was such that they were afraid of sending any one of their +chiefs, as they considered his loss almost inevitable.” + +Although there was so much reluctance on the part of the Indians to +leave their roving life, even for a few months, there were some white +men among the explorers who were willing to give up their home in “the +States.” The journal says:-- + +“In the evening Colter applied to us for permission to join the two +trappers who had accompanied us, and who now proposed an expedition up +the river, in which they were to find traps and to give him a share of +the profits. The offer was a very advantageous one; and as he had +always performed his duty, and his services could be dispensed with, we +consented to his going upon condition that none of the rest were to ask +or expect a similar indulgence. To this they all cheerfully assented, +saying that they wished Colter every success, and would not apply for +liberty to separate before we reached St. Louis. We therefore supplied +him, as did his comrades also, with powder and lead, and a variety of +articles which might be useful to him, and he left us the next day. The +example of this man shows how easily men may be weaned from the habits +of civilized life to the ruder, though scarcely less fascinating, +manners of the woods. This hunter had now been absent for many years +from the frontiers, and might naturally be presumed to have some +anxiety, or at least curiosity, to return to his friends and his +country; yet, just at the moment when he was approaching the frontiers, +he was tempted by a hunting scheme to give up all those delightful +prospects, and to go back without the least reluctance to the solitude +of the wilds.” + +The two captains learned here that the Minnetarees had sent out a +war-party against the Shoshonees, very soon after the white men’s +expedition had left for the Rocky Mountains, notwithstanding their +promise to keep peace with the surrounding tribes. They had also sent a +war-party against the Ricaras, two of whom they killed. Accordingly, the +white chiefs had a powwow with the Indian chiefs, at which the journal +says these incidents occurred:-- + +“We took this opportunity of endeavoring to engage Le Borgne in our +interests by a present of the swivel, which is no longer serviceable, as +it cannot be discharged from our largest pirogue. It was loaded; and the +chiefs being formed into a circle round it, Captain Clark addressed them +with great ceremony. He said that he had listened with much attention +to what had yesterday been declared by Le Borgne, whom he believed to be +sincere, and then reproached them with their disregard of our counsels, +and their wars on the Shoshonees and Ricaras. Little Cherry, the +old Minnetaree chief, answered that they had long stayed at home and +listened to our advice, but at last went to war against the Sioux +because their horses had been stolen and their companions killed; and +that in an expedition against those people they met the Ricaras, who +were on their way to strike them, and a battle ensued. But in future he +said they would attend to our words and live at peace. Le Borgne added +that his ears would always be open to the words of his Good Father, and +shut against bad counsel. Captain Clark then presented to Le Borgne the +swivel, which he told him had announced the words of his Great Father +to all the nations we had seen, and which, whenever it was fired, should +recall those which we had delivered to him. The gun was discharged, and +Le Borgne had it conveyed in great pomp to his village. The council then +adjourned.” + +After much diplomacy and underhand scheming, one of the Mandan chiefs, +Big White, agreed to go to Washington with the expedition. But none of +the Minnetarees could be prevailed upon to leave their tribe, even for +a journey to the Great Father, of whose power and might so much had been +told them. The journal, narrating this fact, says further:-- + +“The principal chiefs of the Minnetarees now came down to bid us +farewell, as none of them could be prevailed on to go with us. This +circumstance induced our interpreter, Chaboneau, to remain here with his +wife and child, as he could no longer be of use to us, and, although we +offered to take him with us to the United States, he declined, saying +that there he had no acquaintance, and no chance of making a livelihood, +and preferred remaining among the Indians. This man had been very +serviceable to us, and his wife was particularly useful among the +Shoshonees: indeed, she had borne with a patience truly admirable the +fatigues of so long a route, encumbered with the charge of an infant, +who was then only nineteen months old. We therefore paid him his wages, +amounting to five hundred dollars and thirty-three cents, including +the price of a horse and a lodge purchased of him, and soon afterward +dropped down to the village of Big White, attended on shore by all the +Indian chiefs, who had come to take leave of him. + +“We found him surrounded by his friends, who sat in a circle smoking, +while the women were crying. He immediately sent his wife and son, with +their baggage, on board, accompanied by the interpreter and his wife, +and two children; and then, after distributing among his friends some +powder and ball which we had given him, and smoking a pipe, he went with +us to the river side. The whole village crowded about us, and many of +the people wept aloud at the departure of their chief.” + +Once more embarked, the party soon reached Fort Mandan, where they had +wintered in 1804. They found very little of their old stronghold left +except a few pickets and one of the houses. The rest had been destroyed +by an accidental fire. Eighteen miles below, they camped near an old +Ricara village, and next day, as they were about to resume their voyage, +a brother of Big White, whose camp was farther inland, came running down +to the beach to bid Big White farewell. The parting of the two brothers +was very affectionate, and the elder gave the younger a pair of leggings +as a farewell present. The Indian chief was satisfied with his treatment +by the whites, and interested himself to tell them traditions of +localities which they passed. August 20 they were below the mouth of +Cannon-ball River, and were in the country occupied and claimed by the +Sioux. Here, if anywhere, they must be prepared for attacks from +hostile Indians. At this point, the journal sets forth this interesting +observation:-- + +“Since we passed in 1804, a very obvious change has taken place in the +current and appearance of the Missouri. In places where at that time +there were sandbars, the current of the river now passes, and the former +channel of the river is in turn a bank of sand. Sandbars then naked are +now covered with willows several feet high; the entrance of some of +the creeks and rivers has changed in consequence of the quantity of mud +thrown into them; and in some of the bottoms are layers of mud eight +inches in depth.” + +The streams that flow into the Missouri and Mississippi from the +westward are notoriously fickle and changeable. Within a very few years, +some of them have changed their course so that farms are divided into +two parts, or are nearly wiped out by the wandering streams. In at least +one instance, artful men have tried to steal part of a State by changing +the boundary line along the bed of the river, making the stream flow +many miles across a tract around which it formerly meandered. On this +boundary line between the Sioux and their upper neighbors, the party +met a band of Cheyennes and another of Ricaras, or Arikaras. They held +a palaver with these Indians and reproached the Ricara chief, who was +called Gray-eyes, with having engaged in hostilities with the Sioux, +notwithstanding the promises made when the white men were here before. +To this Gray-eyes made an animated reply:-- + +“He declared that the Ricaras were willing to follow the counsels we had +given them, but a few of their bad young men would not live in peace, +but had joined the Sioux and thus embroiled them with the Mandans. These +young men had, however, been driven out of the villages, and as the +Ricaras were now separated from the Sioux, who were a bad people and the +cause of all their misfortunes, they now desired to be at peace with the +Mandans, and would receive them with kindness and friendship. Several of +the chiefs, he said, were desirous of visiting their Great Father; but +as the chief who went to the United States last summer had not returned, +and they had some fears for his safety, on account of the Sioux, they +did not wish to leave home until they heard of him. With regard to +himself, he would continue with his nation, to see that they followed +our advice. . . . . . . . . . + +“After smoking for some time, Captain Clark gave a small medal to the +Chayenne chief, and explained at the same time the meaning of it. He +seemed alarmed at this present, and sent for a robe and a quantity of +buffalo-meat, which he gave to Captain Clark, and requested him to take +back the medal; for he knew that all white people were ‘medicine,’ and +was afraid of the medal, or of anything else which the white people gave +to the Indians. Captain Clark then repeated his intention in giving +the medal, which was the medicine his great father had directed him +to deliver to all chiefs who listened to his word and followed his +counsels; and that as he (the chief) had done so, the medal was given +as a proof that we believed him sincere. He now appeared satisfied and +received the medal, in return for which he gave double the quantity of +buffalo-meat he had offered before. He seemed now quite reconciled to +the whites, and requested that some traders might be sent among the +Chayennes, who lived, he said, in a country full of beaver, but did +not understand well how to catch them, and were discouraged from it by +having no sale for them when caught. Captain Clark promised that they +should be soon supplied with goods and taught the best mode of catching +beaver. + +“Big White, the chief of the Mandans, now addressed them at some length, +explaining the pacific intentions of his nation; the Chayennes observed +that both the Ricaras and Mandans seemed to be in fault; but at the end +of the council the Mandan chief was treated with great civility, and +the greatest harmony prevailed among them. The great chief, however, +informed us that none of the Ricaras could be prevailed on to go with us +till the return of the other chief; and that the Chayennes were a wild +people, afraid to go. He invited Captain Clark to his house, and gave +him two carrots of tobacco, two beaver-skins, and a trencher of boiled +corn and beans. It is the custom of all the nations on the Missouri to +offer to every white man food and refreshment when he first enters their +tents.” + +Resuming their voyage, the party reached Tyler’s River, where they +camped, on the twenty-seventh of August. This stream is now known as +Medicine River, from Medicine Hill, a conspicuous landmark rising at a +little distance from the Missouri. The voyagers were now near the +lower portion of what is now known as South Dakota, and they camped in +territory embraced in the county of Presho. Here they were forced to +send out their hunters; their stock of meat was nearly exhausted. The +hunters returned empty-handed. + +“After a hunt of three hours they reported that no game was to be found +in the bottoms, the grass having been laid flat by the immense number of +buffaloes which recently passed over it; and, that they saw only a few +buffalo bulls, which they did not kill, as they were quite unfit for +use. Near this place we observed, however, the first signs of the wild +turkey; not long afterward we landed in the Big Bend, and killed a fine +fat elk, on which we feasted. Toward night we heard the bellowing of +buffalo bulls on the lower island of the Big Bend. We pursued this +agreeable sound, and after killing some of the cows, camped on the +island, forty-five miles from the camp of last night.” . . . . . . . . . + +“Setting out at ten o’clock the next morning, at a short distance they +passed the mouth of White River, the water of which was nearly of the +color of milk. As they were much occupied with hunting, they made but +twenty miles. The buffalo,” says the journal, “were now so numerous, +that from an eminence we discovered more than we had ever seen before +at one time; and though it was impossible accurately to calculate their +number, they darkened the whole plain, and could not have been, we were +convinced, less than twenty thousand. With regard to game in general, +we have observed that wild animals are usually found in the greatest +numbers in the country lying between two nations at war.” + +They were now well into the Sioux territory, and on the thirtieth of +August they had an encounter with a party of Indians. About twenty +persons were seen on the west side of the river, proceeding along a +height opposite the voyagers. Just as these were observed, another band, +numbering eighty or ninety, came out of the woods nearer the shore. As +they had a hostile appearance, the party in the canoes made preparations +to receive them; they were suspected to be Teton-Sioux, although they +might be Yanktons, Pawnees, or Omahas. The journal adds:-- + +“In order, however, to ascertain who they were, without risk to the +party, Captain Clark crossed, with three persons who could speak +different Indian languages, to a sand-bar near the opposite side, in +hopes of conversing with them. Eight young men soon met him on the +sand-bar, but none of them could understand either the Pawnee or +Maha interpreter. They were then addressed in the Sioux language, and +answered that they were Tetons, of the band headed by Black Buffaloe, +Tahtackasabah. This was the same who had attempted to stop us in 1804; +and being now less anxious about offending so mischievous a tribe, +Captain Clark told them that they had been deaf to our councils, had +ill-treated us two years ago, and had abused all the whites who had +since visited them. He believed them, he added, to be bad people, and +they must therefore return to their companions; for if they crossed over +to our camp we would put them to death. They asked for some corn, which +Captain Clark refused; they then requested permission to come and +visit our camp, but he ordered them back to their own people. He then +returned, and all our arms were prepared, in case of an attack; but when +the Indians reached their comrades, and informed their chiefs of our +intention, they all set out on their way to their own camp; though +some of them halted on a rising ground and abused us very copiously, +threatening to kill us if we came across. We took no notice of this for +some time, till the return of three of our hunters, whom we were afraid +the Indians might have met. But as soon as they joined us we embarked; +and to see what the Indians would attempt, steered near their side of +the river. At this the party on the hill seemed agitated; some set out +for their camp, others walked about, and one man walked toward the boats +and invited us to land. As he came near, we recognized him to be the +same who had accompanied us for two days in 1804, and was considered a +friend of the whites. + +“Unwilling, however, to have any intercourse with these people, we +declined his invitation, upon which he returned to the hill, and struck +the earth three times with his gun, a great oath among the Indians, +who consider swearing by the earth as one of the most solemn forms +of imprecation. At the distance of six miles we stopped on a bleak +sand-bar, where we thought ourselves secure from any attack during the +night, and also safe from the mosquitoes. We had made but twenty-two +miles, but in the course of the day had killed a mule-deer, an animal +we were very anxious to obtain. About eleven in the evening the wind +shifted to the northwest, and it began to rain, accompanied by thunder +and lightning, after which the wind changed to the southwest, and blew +with such violence that we were obliged to hold fast the canoes, for +fear of their being driven from the sand-bar: still, the cables of two +of them broke, and two others were blown quite across the river; nor was +it till two o’clock that the whole party were reassembled, waiting in +the rain for daylight.” + +The party now began to meet white men in small detachments coming up the +river. On the third of September, for example, they met the first men +who were able to give them news of home. This party was commanded by a +Mr. James Airs (or Ayres), from Mackinaw, by the way of Prairie du Chien +and St. Louis. He had two canoes loaded with merchandise which he was +taking up the river to trade with the Indians. Among the items of news +gathered from him, according to the private journal of one of the Lewis +and Clark party, was that General James Wilkinson was now Governor +of Louisiana Territory, and was stationed at St. Louis. This is the +Wilkinson who fought in the American Revolution, and was subsequently to +this time accused of accepting bribes from Spain and of complicity with +Aaron Burr in his treasonable schemes. Another item was to this effect: +“Mr. Burr & Genl. Hambleton fought a Duel, the latter was killed.” + This brief statement refers to the unhappy duel between Aaron Burr +and Alexander Hamilton, at Weehawken, New Jersey, July 11, 1804. This +interesting entry shows with what feelings the long-absent explorers met +Mr. Airs:-- + +“After so long an interval, the sight of anyone who could give us +information of our country was peculiarly delightful, and much of the +night was spent in making inquiries into what had occurred during our +absence. We found Mr. Airs a very friendly and liberal gentleman; when +we proposed to him to purchase a small quantity of tobacco, to be paid +for in St. Louis, he very readily furnished every man of the party with +as much as he could use during the rest of the voyage, and insisted +on our accepting a barrel of flour. This last we found very agreeable, +although we have still a little flour which we had deposited at the +mouth of Maria’s River. We could give in return only about six bushels +of corn, which was all that we could spare.” + +Three days later, the voyagers met a trading-boat belonging to Mr. +Augustus Chouteau, the founder of a famous trading-house in St. Louis. +From this party the captains procured a gallon of whiskey, and with this +they served out a dram to each of their men. “This,” says the journal, +“is the first spirituous liquor any of them have tasted since the Fourth +of July, 1805.” From this time forward, the returning explorers met +trading parties nearly every day; and this showed that trade was +following the flag far up into the hitherto unexplored regions of the +American continent. + +The explorers, hungry for news from home, would have tarried and talked +longer with their new-found friends, but they were anxious to get +down to civilization once more. Their journal also says: “The Indians, +particularly the squaws and children, are weary of the long journey, and +we are desirous of seeing our country and friends.” This quotation from +the journal gives us our first intimation that any Indians accompanied +Big White to the United States. He appears to have had a small retinue +of followers men, women, and children--with him. + +Below the mouth of the Platte, September 12, Lewis and Clark met +Gravelines, the interpreter who was sent to Washington from Fort Mandan, +in 1805, with despatches, natural history specimens, and a Ricara chief. +The chief had unfortunately died in Washington, and Gravelines was now +on his way to the Ricaras with a speech from President Jefferson and the +presents that had been given to the chief. He also had instructions to +teach the Ricaras in agriculture. + +It is interesting to note how that the explorers, now tolerably well +acquainted with the Indian character since their long experience with +the red men, had adopted a very different bearing from that which they +had when coming up the river, in 1805. Here is an extract from their +journal, September 14:-- + +“We resumed our journey. This being a part of the river to which the +Kansas resort, in order to rob the boats of traders, we held ourselves +in readiness to fire upon any Indians who should offer us the slightest +indignity; as we no longer needed their friendship, and found that a +tone of firmness and decision is the best possible method of making +proper impressions on these freebooters. However, we did not +encounter any of them; but just below the old Kansas village met three +trading-boats from St. Louis, on their way to the Yanktons and Mahas.” + +Thirty miles below the island of Little Osage village, the party met +Captain McClellan, formerly of the United States army. He informed +Captain Lewis that the party had been given up for lost, people +generally believing that they would never again be heard from; but, +according to the journal of one of the party, “The President of the U. +States yet had hopes of us.” The last news received in “the U. States” + from the explorers was that sent from Fort Mandan, by Gravelines, in +1805. + +Scarcity of provisions once more disturbed the party, so that, on the +eighteenth of September, the journal sets forth the fact that game was +very scarce and nothing was seen by the hunters but a bear and three +turkeys, which they were unable to reach. The men, however, were +perfectly satisfied, although they were allowed only one biscuit +per day. An abundance of pawpaws growing along the banks sufficed as +nutritious food. The pawpaw is native to many of the Western States +of the Republic. It is a fruit three or four inches long, growing on +a small tree, or bush. The fruit is sweet and juicy and has several +bean-shaped seeds embedded in the pulp. The voyagers now began to see +signs of civilization on the banks of the river. Near the mouth of the +Gasconade, above St. Louis, they beheld cows grazing in the meadows. The +journal says: “The whole party almost involuntarily raised a shout of +joy at seeing this image of civilization and domestic life.” Men who +have been wandering in pathless wildernesses, remote from man, for more +than two years, might well be moved by the sights of a homelike farm +and a settled life. Soon after this the party reached the little French +village of La Charette which they saluted with four guns and three +hearty cheers. Then, according to the journal, they landed and were +warmly received by the people, who had long since abandoned all hope +of ever seeing these far-voyaging adventurers return. Here are the +last entries in the journal that has been our guide so long across the +continent and back again to the haunts of men:-- + +“Sunday, September 21st, we proceeded; and as several settlements have +been made during our absence, we were refreshed with the sight of men +and cattle along the banks. We also passed twelve canoes of Kickapoo +Indians, going on a hunting-excursion. At length, after coming +forty-eight miles, we saluted, with heartfelt satisfaction, the +village of St. Charles, and on landing were treated with the greatest +hospitality and kindness by all the inhabitants of that place. Their +civility detained us till ten o’clock the next morning. + +“September 22d, when the rain having ceased, we set out for Coldwater +Creek, about three miles from the mouth of the Missouri, where we found +a cantonment of troops of the United States, with whom we passed the +day; and then, + +“September 23d, descended to the Mississippi, and round to St. Louis, +where we arrived at twelve o’clock; and having fired a salute, went on +shore and received the heartiest and most hospitable welcome from the +whole village.” + +The two captains were very busily employed, as soon as they arrived in +St. Louis, with writing letters to their friends and to the officers +of the government who were concerned to know of their safe return to +civilization. Captain Lewis’ letter to the President of the United +States, announcing his arrival, was dated Sept. 23, 1806. President +Jefferson’s reply was dated October 20 of that year. In his letter the +President expressed his “unspeakable joy” at the safe return of the +expedition. He said that the unknown scenes in which they had been +engaged and the length of time during which no tidings had been received +from them “had begun to be felt awfully.” It may seem strange to modern +readers familiar with the means for rapid travel and communication that +no news from the explorers, later than that which they sent from the +Mandan country, was received in the United States until their return, +two years and four months later. But mail facilities were very scanty +in those far-off days, even in the settled portions of the Mississippi +Valley, and few traders had then penetrated to those portions of the +Lower Missouri that had just been travelled by Lewis and Clark. As we +have seen, white men were regarded with awe and curiosity by the natives +of the regions which the explorers traversed in their long absence. The +first post-office in what is now the great city of St. Louis was not +established until 1808; mails between the Atlantic seaboard and that +“village” required six weeks to pass either way. + +The two captains went to Washington early in the year following their +arrival in St. Louis. There is extant a letter from Captain Lewis, +dated at Washington, Feb. 11, 1807. Congress was then in session, and, +agreeably to the promises that had been held out to the explorers, the +Secretary of War (General Henry Dearborn), secured from that body +the passage of an act granting to each member of the expedition a +considerable tract of land from the public domain. To each private +and non-commissioned officer was given three hundred acres; to Captain +Clark, one thousand acres, and to Captain Lewis fifteen hundred acres. +In addition to this, the two officers were given double pay for their +services during the time of their absence. Captain Lewis magnanimously +objected to receiving more land for his services than that given to +Captain Clark. + +Captain Lewis resigned from the army, March 2, 1807, having been +nominated to be Governor of Louisiana Territory a few days before. His +commission as Governor was dated March 3 of that year. He was thus +made the Governor of all the territory of the United States west of the +Mississippi River. About the same time, Captain Clark was appointed a +general of the territorial militia and Indian agent for that department. + +Originally, the territory acquired from France was divided into the +District of New Orleans and the District of Louisiana, the first-named +being the lower portion of the territory and bounded on the north by +a line which now represents the northern boundary of the State of +Louisiana; and all above that line was known as the District of +Louisiana. In 1812, the upper part, or Louisiana, was named the +Territory of Missouri, and Captain Clark (otherwise General), was +appointed Governor of the Territory, July 1, 1813, his old friend and +comrade having died a few years earlier. + +The end of Captain (otherwise Governor) Lewis was tragical and was +shadowed by a cloud. Official business calling him to Washington, he +left St. Louis early in September, 1809, and prosecuted his journey +eastward through Tennessee, by the way of Chickasaw Bluffs, now Memphis, +of that State. There is a mystery around his last days. On the eleventh +of October, he stopped at a wayside log-inn, and that night he died +a violent death, whether by his own hand or by that of a murderer, no +living man knows. There were many contradictory stories about the sad +affair, some persons holding to the one theory and some to the other. +He was buried where he died, in the centre of what is now Lewis County, +Tennessee. In 1848, the State of Tennessee erected over the last +resting-place of Lewis a handsome monument, the inscriptions on which +duly set forth his many virtues and his distinguished services to his +country. + +The story of the expedition of Lewis and Clark is the foundation of the +history of the great Northwest and the Missouri Valley. These men +and their devoted band of followers were the first to break into the +world-old solitudes of the heart of the continent and to explore +the mountain fastnesses in which the mighty Columbia has its birth. +Following in their footsteps, the hardy American emigrant, trader, +adventurer, and home-seeker penetrated the wilderness, and, building +better than they knew, laid the foundations of populous and thriving +States. Peaceful farms and noble cities, towns and villages, thrilling +with the hum of modern industry and activity, are spread over the vast +spaces through which the explorers threaded their toilsome trail, amid +incredible privations and hardships, showing the way westward across the +boundless continent which is ours. Let the names of those two men long +be held in grateful honor by the American people! + + + +INDEX + + A + + Alkali, natural deposits of, 60. + Antelope, first seen, 29, how hunted, 69. + Assiniboins, at war with Sioux, 49. + + B + + Beaver, hunted as game, 70, + Beaver Head, 143. + Big Dry River, 75. + Bismarck, N. D., 44. + Bitter Root Mountains, 147. + Black Cat, a Mandan chief, 342. + Boone, Daniel, 14. + Buffalo, first signs of, 16; hunt, 51; curious adventure with, 87; + extermination of, 338. + + C + + Caches, how built, 98. + Calumet bird, 43. + Camas, edible root, 179. + Cameahwait, a Shoshonee chief, 157. + Camp, first winter, 48; departure from, 57. + Candle-fish, 252. + Cannonball River, N. D-, 43. + Captain Cook, 3. + Captain Gray, 3. + Captain Vancouver, 3. + Carroll, Mont., 83. + Carver, Jonathan, 5. + Cascades of the Columbia, 262. + Cathedral Rocks, 90-92. + Cheyenne River, 40. + Chinook Indians, 208, some account of, 246. + Chouteau, a St. Louis trader, 355. + Christmas (1804), 52. (1805), 240- + Clark, Captain, biographical notice Of, 7. + general of militia, 359. + Clark’s Fort, 48. + river, 180-63. + party overtaken by disaster, 142. + Clatsop Indians, some account Of, 248. + Clearwater River, 183. + Cloudburst, 116. + Columbia River, discovery Of, 4. + portage to, 108; + at the headwaters of, 148. + at the entrance to, 194. + great falls of, 202; + the great chute Of, 21. + et seq. Comowol, a Columbia River Indian + chief, 239. + Condor, a California variety, 256. + Council Bluffs, 19. + Cowas, an edible root, 278. + Coyote, described, 72. + Crow Indians, 24. + + D + + Dalles, the, 266. + Dearborn River, 130. + Divide, on the great, 148; + across the, 179. + Dog’s flesh as an article of food, 24. + 185- + + E + + Echeloot Indians, 210. + Elk, hunting of, 251. + Ermine, first seen, 49. + Expedition, Lewis and Clark’s, 7. + Organization of, 8. + route of, 10; + sets sail, 14. + “Experiment,” failure of the boat, 124 + + F + + Falls of the Missouri, 101. + description of, 11. et seq. + Flathead Indians, 211. + Floyd’s River, why so named, 23. + Forks of the Missouri, 135. + Fort Clark, 48. + Clatsop, 255. + + G + + Gallatin’s fork of the Missouri, 135. + Gates of the Rocky Mountains, 132. + Goose-nests in trees, 61. + gray, Capt., discoverer of the Columbia, 3. + Grizzly bear, first seen, 40. + thrilling encounters with, 72, 76, 77, 105, 115, 315- + + H + + Horse-flesh eaten by the expedition, 77. + Hungry Creek, 178, 303- + + 1 + + Independence Day, celebration of (1805), 123. + (180(i), 327. + Iowa Indians, 16. + Islands, White Bear, 110. + + J + + Jefferson, President Thomas, 2-4. + his letters to Capt. Lewis, 12. + presents to, + from Lewis and Clark, 55. + welcome to Capt. Lewis on return, 358. + name given + to fork of the Missouri, 135. + John Day’s River, 203- + + K + + Klikitat River, 214. + Kooskooskee River, 180. + + L + + Lewis, Capt., biographical notice of, 6, 7. + accidentally wounded, 341; + announces his return, 358. + Governor of Louisiana Territory, 359; + his tragical death, 360. + Lewis and Clark, pursue separate routes across + the Divide, 140. + also on their return, 310. + Lewis’s River, 165. + + Lewiston, Idaho, 185. + Ledyard, John, 4. + Lemhi River, 152. + Little Devils, hill Of, 23. + Louisiana Purchase, the, 1-2; + divided into two territories, 360. + + M + + Madison, fork of the Missouri, 135. + Mandan Indians, 4. et seq.; + religion of, 50. + Maria’s River, 97. + Medicine River, 106. + Meriwether’s Bay, 234. + Milk River, 74. + Minnetarees, at war + with Sioux, 49. + expedition has an encounter with, 31. et seq, + Missouri River, Little, 60. + Missouri, the Upper, So; great falls of, 101; + forks of, 135. + at the headwaters Of, 147. + Mosquitoes, the great + plague of, 126, 339. + Mount St. Helen’s, 198. + Hood, 203. + Mouse River, source of, 60. + Multnomah (Willamette) River, 221. + 259. + Musselshell River, 81. + + N + + Nez Perce Indians (Chopunnish), 180. + some account of the, 186. + Noises, mysterious, 122. + + 0 + + Osage Indians, traditions of, 15. + Ottoes, council with, 20. + + P + + Pacific Ocean, first sight of the, 225. + Pawpaw fruit, 357. + Pemmican, 33. + Platte River as a boundary, 17. + Porcupine River, 70. + Prairie dog, 29. + + Q Quamash flats, 302. + Quicksand River, 220. + + R + + Rat, peculiar variety of, 121. + Rickarees, in the country + of the, 40. + River, Little Missouri, to; Mouse, source of, 60; + Yellowstone, 65. + Porcupine, 70. + Saskatchewan, 74. + Milk, 74; + Big Dry, 75. + Upper Missouri, 80. + Musselshell, 81. + Slaughter, 88; + Maria’s, 97. + Madison, 106. + Columbia, portage to, 108. + Smith’s, 129; + Dearborn, 130. + Salmon, 152. + Lemhi, 152. + Lewis’s, 165. + Kooskooskee, 180; + Clark’s, 180. + Clearwater, 183. + Snake, 188. + Yakima, 196. + John Day’S, 203; + Klikitat, 21. + Quicksand, 220. + Multnomah. 220. + Rocky Mountains, + first sight of, 85. + sheep, 85. + gates of the, 132. + farewell to + the mountains, 335. + Rocks, Cathedral, 90-92. + + S + + St. Louis, village of, 11. + first post-office in, 359. + Sacajawea, joins the expedition, 4. + stream named for her, 82; + story of her capture, 138. + finds her own people, 160. + a tribute to + her memory, 332. + Sage-brush, first seen, 62. + Saline County, Mo., 16. + Salmon River, 152. + City, Idaho, 165. + abundance of fish, 194. + Salt, made from sea-water, 23. + et seq. Saskatchewan River, 74. + Shannon, the lost hunter, 143. + Shoshonees, first meeting with, 14. + among the, 15. + et seq.; some account of the, 17. + et seq. + Sioux Indians, 27. + Slaughter River, 88. + Smith’s River, 128. + + Snake River, 188. + junction of the with Columbia, 190. + Sokulk Indians, some account of, 19. + et seq. Spirit Mound, 24. + Spring River, S. D-; 42. + Stone-Idol Creek, legend Of, 42. + Sweat baths, Indian, 187, 298. + + T + + Tetons, in the country of, 33-38. + Three-thousand-mile Island, 331. + Tillamook Indians, 244. + Traveller’s-rest Creek, 309. + Twisted-hair, an Indian chief, adventures with, 28. et seq. + + U Umatilla, 271- + + V + + Vancouver, Capt-y 3- + + W + + Wahkiacum Indians, 224. + Walla Walla, 271. + Wappatoo, edible root, 23. + description of, 260. + Weocksockwillacums, 265. + Wharfington, commands return party to the U. S., 58. + White Bear Islands, 110. + camp at, 114. + Whisky, Indian rejection + of, 42. + Winter camp, first, 48. + departure from, 57- + + Y + + Yakima River, 196. + Yankton, S. D., 24. + Yellowstone River, 65; + Capt. Clark’s descent of the, 327. + York, a negro servant, 41. 159. + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg’s First Across the Continent, by Noah Brooks + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 1236 *** diff --git a/1236-h/1236-h.htm b/1236-h/1236-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..14f212a --- /dev/null +++ b/1236-h/1236-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,10950 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?> + +<!DOCTYPE html + PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd" > + +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" lang="en"> + <head> + <title> + First Across the Continent, by Noah Brooks + </title> + <style type="text/css" xml:space="preserve"> + + body { margin:5%; background:#faebd0; text-align:justify} + P { text-indent: 1em; margin-top: .25em; margin-bottom: .25em; } + H1,H2,H3,H4,H5,H6 { text-align: center; margin-left: 15%; margin-right: 15%; } + hr { width: 50%; text-align: center;} + .foot { margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%; text-align: justify; text-indent: -3em; font-size: 90%; } + blockquote {font-size: 97%; font-style: italic; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%;} + .mynote {background-color: #DDE; color: #000; padding: .5em; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 95%;} + .toc { margin-left: 10%; margin-bottom: .75em;} + .toc2 { margin-left: 20%;} + div.fig { display:block; margin:0 auto; text-align:center; } + div.middle { margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%; text-align: justify; } + .figleft {float: left; margin-left: 0%; margin-right: 1%;} + .figright {float: right; margin-right: 0%; margin-left: 1%;} + .pagenum {display:inline; font-size: 70%; font-style:normal; + margin: 0; padding: 0; position: absolute; right: 1%; + text-align: right;} + pre { font-style: italic; font-size: 90%; margin-left: 10%;} + +</style> + </head> + <body> +<div>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 1236 ***</div> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <h1> + FIRST ACROSS THE CONTINENT + </h1> + <h3> + The Story of The Exploring Expedition of Lewis and Clark in 1804-5-6 + </h3> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <h2> + By Noah Brooks + </h2> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <blockquote> + <p class="toc"> + <big><b>CONTENTS</b></big> + </p> + <p> + <br /> <a href="#link2HCH0001"> Chapter I </a> A Great + Transaction in Land <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0002"> Chapter II</a> + Beginning a Long Journey <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0003"> Chapter III</a> + From the Lower to the Upper River <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0004"> + Chapter IV</a> Novel Experiences among the Indians <br /><br /> + <a href="#link2HCH0005"> Chapter V</a> From the Tetons to + the Mandans <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0006"> Chapter VI</a> + Winter among the Mandans <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0007"> Chapter VII</a> + From Fort Mandan to the Yellowstone <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0008"> + Chapter VIII</a> In the Haunts of Grizzlies and Buffalo + <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0009"> Chapter IX</a> In the + Solitudes of the Upper Missouri <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0010"> + Chapter X</a> To the Great Falls of the Missouri <br /><br /> + <a href="#link2HCH0011"> Chapter XI</a> A the Heart of the + Continent <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0012"> Chapter XII</a> + At the Sources of the Missouri <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0013"> + Chapter XIII</a> From the Minnetarees to the Shoshonees + <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0014"> Chapter XIV</a> Across + the Great Divide <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0015"> Chapter XV</a> + Down the Pacific Slope <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0016"> Chapter XVI</a> + Down the Columbia to Tidewater <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0017"> + Chapter XVII</a> From Tidewater to the Sea <br /><br /> <a + href="#link2HCH0018"> Chapter XVIII</a> Camping by the + Pacific <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0019"> Chapter XIX</a> + With Faces turned Homeward <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0020"> Chapter + XX</a> The Last Stage of the Columbia <br /><br /> <a + href="#link2HCH0021"> Chapter XXI</a> Overland east of the + Columbia <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0022"> Chapter XXII</a> + Camping with the Nez Perces <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0023"> Chapter + XXIII </a> Crossing the Bitter Root + Mountains <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0024"> Chapter XXIV</a> + The Expedition Subdivided <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0025"> Chapter + XXV</a> Adventures on the Yellowstone <br /><br /> <a + href="#link2HCH0026"> Chapter XXVI</a> The End of a Long + Journey <br /><br /> + </p> + </blockquote> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0001" id="link2HCH0001"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> <br /> <br /> <br /> + </p> + <h2> + Chapter I — A Great Transaction in Land + </h2> + <p> + The people of the young Republic of the United States were greatly + astonished, in the summer of 1803, to learn that Napoleon Bonaparte, then + First Consul of France, had sold to us the vast tract of land known as the + country of Louisiana. The details of this purchase were arranged in Paris + (on the part of the United States) by Robert R. Livingston and James + Monroe. The French government was represented by Barbe-Marbois, Minister + of the Public Treasury. + </p> + <p> + The price to be paid for this vast domain was fifteen million dollars. The + area of the country ceded was reckoned to be more than one million square + miles, greater than the total area of the United States, as the Republic + then existed. Roughly described, the territory comprised all that part of + the continent west of the Mississippi River, bounded on the north by the + British possessions and on the west and south by dominions of Spain. This + included the region in which now lie the States of Louisiana, Arkansas, + Missouri, Kansas, parts of Colorado, Minnesota, the States of Iowa, + Nebraska, South Dakota, North Dakota, Wyoming, a part of Idaho, all of + Montana and Territory of Oklahoma. At that time, the entire population of + the region, exclusive of the Indian tribes that roamed over its trackless + spaces, was barely ninety thousand persons, of whom forty thousand were + negro slaves. The civilized inhabitants were principally French, or + descendants of French, with a few Spanish, Germans, English, and + Americans. + </p> + <p> + The purchase of this tremendous slice of territory could not be complete + without an approval of the bargain by the United States Senate. Great + opposition to this was immediately excited by people in various parts of + the Union, especially in New England, where there was a very bitter + feeling against the prime mover in this business,—Thomas Jefferson, + then President of the United States. The scheme was ridiculed by persons + who insisted that the region was not only wild and unexplored, but + uninhabitable and worthless. They derided “The Jefferson Purchase,” as + they called it, as a useless piece of extravagance and folly; and, in + addition to its being a foolish bargain, it was urged that President + Jefferson had no right, under the constitution of the United States, to + add any territory to the area of the Republic. + </p> + <p> + Nevertheless, a majority of the people were in favor of the purchase, and + the bargain was duly approved by the United States Senate; that body, July + 31, 1803, just three months after the execution of the treaty of cession, + formally ratified the important agreement between the two governments. The + dominion of the United States was now extended across the entire continent + of North America, reaching from the Atlantic to the Pacific. The Territory + of Oregon was already ours. + </p> + <p> + This momentous transfer took place one hundred years ago, when almost + nothing was known of the region so summarily handed from the government of + France to the government of the American Republic. Few white men had ever + traversed those trackless plains, or scaled the frowning ranges of + mountains that barred the way across the continent. There were living in + the fastnesses of the mysterious interior of the Louisiana Purchase many + tribes of Indians who had never looked in the face of the white man. + </p> + <p> + Nor was the Pacific shore of the country any better known to civilized man + than was the region lying between that coast and the Big Muddy, or + Missouri River. Spanish voyagers, in 1602, had sailed as far north as the + harbors of San Diego and Monterey, in what is now California; and other + explorers, of the same nationality, in 1775, extended their discoveries as + far north as the fifty-eighth degree of latitude. Famous Captain Cook, the + great navigator of the Pacific seas, in 1778, reached and entered Nootka + Sound, and, leaving numerous harbors and bays unexplored, he pressed on + and visited the shores of Alaska, then called Unalaska, and traced the + coast as far north as Icy Cape. Cold weather drove him westward across the + Pacific, and he spent the next winter at Owyhee, where, in February of the + following year, he was killed by the natives. + </p> + <p> + All these explorers were looking for chances for fur-trading, which was at + that time the chief industry of the Pacific coast. Curiously enough, they + all passed by the mouth of the Columbia without observing that there was + the entrance to one of the finest rivers on the American continent. + </p> + <p> + Indeed, Captain Vancouver, a British explorer, who has left his name on + the most important island of the North Pacific coast, baffled by the + deceptive appearances of the two capes that guard the way to a noble + stream (Cape Disappointment and Cape Deception), passed them without a + thought. But Captain Gray, sailing the good ship “Columbia,” of Boston, + who coasted those shores for more than two years, fully convinced that a + strong current which he observed off those capes came from a river, made a + determined effort; and on the 11th of May, 1792, he discovered and entered + the great river that now bears the name of his ship. At last the key that + was to open the mountain fastnesses of the heart of the continent had been + found. The names of the capes christened by Vancouver and re-christened by + Captain Gray have disappeared from our maps, but in the words of one of + the numerous editors(1) of the narrative of the exploring expedition of + Lewis and Clark: “The name of the good ship ‘Columbia,’ it is not hard to + believe, will flow with the waters of the bold river as long as grass + grows or water runs in the valleys of the Rocky Mountains.” + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + (1) Dr. Archibald McVickar. +</pre> + <p> + It appears that the attention of President Jefferson had been early + attracted to the vast, unexplored domain which his wise foresight was + finally to add to the territory of the United States. While he was living + in Paris, as the representative of the United States, in 1785-89, he made + the acquaintance of John Ledyard, of Connecticut, the well-known explorer, + who had then in mind a scheme for the establishment of a fur-trading post + on the western coast of America. Mr. Jefferson proposed to Ledyard that + the most feasible route to the coveted fur-bearing lands would be through + the Russian possessions and downward somewhere near to the latitude of the + then unknown sources of the Missouri River, entering the United States by + that route. This scheme fell through on account of the obstacles thrown in + Ledyard’s way by the Russian Government. A few years later, in 1792, + Jefferson, whose mind was apparently fixed on carrying out his project, + proposed to the American Philosophical Society of Philadelphia that a + subscription should be opened for the purpose of raising money “to engage + some competent person to explore that region in the opposite direction + (from the Pacific coast),—that is, by ascending the Missouri, + crossing the Stony (Rocky) Mountains, and descending the nearest river to + the Pacific.” This was the hint from which originated the famous + expedition of Lewis and Clark. + </p> + <p> + But the story-teller should not forget to mention that hardy and + adventurous explorer, Jonathan Carver. This man, the son of a British + officer, set out from Boston, in 1766, to explore the wilderness north of + Albany and lying along the southern shore of the Great Lakes. He was + absent two years and seven months, and in that time he collected a vast + amount of useful and strange information, besides learning the language of + the Indians among whom he lived. He conceived the bold plan of travelling + up a branch of the Missouri (or “Messorie”), till, having discovered the + source of the traditional “Oregon, or River of the West,” on the western + side of the lands that divide the continent, “he would have sailed down + that river to the place where it is said to empty itself, near the Straits + of Anian.” + </p> + <p> + By the Straits of Anian, we are to suppose, were meant some part of + Behring’s Straits, separating Asia from the American continent. Carver’s + fertile imagination, stimulated by what he knew of the remote Northwest, + pictured that wild region where, according to a modern poet, “rolls the + Oregon and hears no sound save his own dashing.” But Carver died without + the sight; in his later years, he said of those who should follow his + lead: “While their spirits are elated by their success, perhaps they may + bestow some commendations and blessings on the person who first pointed + out to them the way.” + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0002" id="link2HCH0002"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter II — Beginning a Long Journey + </h2> + <p> + In 1803, availing himself of a plausible pretext to send out an exploring + expedition, President Jefferson asked Congress to appropriate a small sum + of money ($2,500) for the execution of his purpose. At that time the + cession of the Louisiana Territory had not been completed; but matters + were in train to that end, and before the expedition was fairly started on + its long journey across the continent, the Territory was formally ceded to + the United States. + </p> + <p> + Meriwether Lewis, a captain in the army, was selected by Jefferson to lead + the expedition. Captain Lewis was a native of Virginia, and at that time + was only twenty-nine years old. He had been Jefferson’s private secretary + for two years and was, of course, familiar with the President’s plans and + expectations as these regarded the wonder-land which Lewis was to enter. + It is pleasant to quote here Mr. Jefferson’s words concerning Captain + Lewis. In a memoir of that distinguished young officer, written after his + death, Jefferson said: “Of courage undaunted; possessing a firmness and + perseverance of purpose which nothing but impossibilities could divert + from its direction; careful as a father of those committed to his charge, + yet steady in the maintenance of order and discipline; intimate with the + Indian character, customs and principles; habituated to the hunting life; + guarded, by exact observation of the vegetables and animals of his own + country, against losing time in the description of objects already + possessed; honest, disinterested, liberal, of sound understanding, and a + fidelity to truth so scrupulous that whatever he should report would be as + certain as if seen by ourselves—with all these qualifications, as if + selected and implanted by nature in one body for this express purpose, I + could have no hesitation in confiding the enterprise to him.” + </p> + <p> + Before we have finished the story of Meriwether Lewis and his companions, + we shall see that this high praise of the youthful commander was well + deserved. + </p> + <p> + For a coadjutor and comrade Captain Lewis chose William Clark,(1) also a + native of Virginia, and then about thirty-three years old. Clark, like + Lewis, held a commission in the military service of the United States, and + his appointment as one of the leaders of the expedition with which his + name and that of Lewis will ever be associated, made the two men equal in + rank. Exactly how there could be two captains commanding the same + expedition, both of the same military and actual rank, without jar or + quarrel, we cannot understand; but it is certain that the two young men + got on together harmoniously, and no hint or suspicion of any serious + disagreement between the two captains during their long and arduous + service has come down to us from those distant days. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + (1) It is a little singular that Captain Clark’s name has + been so persistently misspelled by historians and + biographers. Even in most of the published versions of the + story of the Lewis and Clark expedition, the name of one of + the captains is spelled Clarke. Clark’s own signature, of + which many are in existence, is without the final and + superfluous vowel; and the family name, for generations + past, does not show it. +</pre> + <p> + As finally organized, the expedition was made up of the two captains + (Lewis and Clark) and twenty-six men. These were nine young men from + Kentucky, who were used to life on the frontier among Indians; fourteen + soldiers of the United States Army, selected from many who eagerly + volunteered their services; two French voyageurs, or watermen, one of whom + was an interpreter of Indian language, and the other a hunter; and one + black man, a servant of Captain Clark. All these, except the negro + servant, were regularly enlisted as privates in the military service of + the United States during the expedition; and three of them were by the + captains appointed sergeants. In addition to this force, nine voyageurs + and a corporal and six private soldiers were detailed to act as guides and + assistants until the explorers should reach the country of the Mandan + Indians, a region lying around the spot where is now situated the + flourishing city of Bismarck, the capital of North Dakota. It was expected + that if hostile Indians should attack the explorers anywhere within the + limits of the little-known parts through which they were to make their + way, such attacks were more likely to be made below the Mandan country + than elsewhere. + </p> + <p> + The duties of the explorers were numerous and important. They were to + explore as thoroughly as possible the country through which they were to + pass; making such observations of latitude and longitude as would be + needed when maps of the region should be prepared by the War Department; + observing the trade, commerce, tribal relations, manners and customs, + language, traditions, and monuments, habits and industrial pursuits, + diseases and laws of the Indian nations with whom they might come in + contact; note the floral, mineral, and animal characteristics of the + country, and, above all, to report whatever might be of interest to + citizens who might thereafter be desirous of opening trade relations with + those wild tribes of which almost nothing was then distinctly known. + </p> + <p> + The list of articles with which the explorers were provided, to aid them + in establishing peaceful relations with the Indians, might amuse traders + of the present day. But in those primitive times, and among peoples + entirely ignorant of the white man’s riches and resources, coats richly + laced with gilt braid, red trousers, medals, flags, knives, colored + handkerchiefs, paints, small looking-glasses, beads and tomahawks were + believed to be so attractive to the simple-minded red man that he would + gladly do much and give much of his own to win such prizes. Of these fine + things there were fourteen large bales and one box. The stores of the + expedition were clothing, working tools, fire-arms, food supplies, powder, + ball, lead for bullets, and flints for the guns then in use, the + old-fashioned flint-lock rifle and musket being still in vogue in our + country; for all of this was at the beginning of the present century. + </p> + <p> + As the party was to begin their long journey by ascending the Missouri + River, their means of travel were provided in three boats. The largest, a + keel-boat, fifty-five feet long and drawing three feet of water, carried a + big square sail and twenty-two seats for oarsmen. On board this craft was + a small swivel gun. The other two boats were of that variety of open craft + known as pirogue, a craft shaped like a flat-iron, square-sterned, + flat-bottomed, roomy, of light draft, and usually provided with four oars + and a square sail which could be used when the wind was aft, and which + also served as a tent, or night shelter, on shore. Two horses, for hunting + or other occasional service, were led along the banks of the river. + </p> + <p> + As we have seen, President Jefferson, whose master mind organized and + devised this expedition, had dwelt longingly on the prospect of crossing + the continent from the headwaters of the Missouri to the headwaters of the + then newly-discovered Columbia. The route thus explored was more difficult + than that which was later travelled by the first emigrants across the + continent to California. That route lies up the Platte River, through what + is known as the South Pass of the Rocky Mountains, by Great Salt Lake and + down the valley of the Humboldt into California, crossing the Sierra + Nevada at any one of several points leading into the valley of the + Sacramento. The route, which was opened by the gold-seekers, was followed + by the first railroads built across the continent. The route that lay so + firmly in Jefferson’s mind, and which was followed up with incredible + hardships by the Lewis and Clark expedition, has since been traversed by + two railroads, built after the first transcontinental rails were laid. If + Jefferson had desired to find the shortest and most feasible route across + the continent, he would have pointed to the South Pass and Utah basin + trails. But these would have led the explorers into California, then and + long afterwards a Spanish possession. The entire line finally traced over + the Great Divide lay within the territory of the United States. + </p> + <p> + But it must be remembered that while the expedition was being organized, + the vast Territory of Louisiana was as yet a French possession. Before the + party were brought together and their supplies collected, the territory + passed under the jurisdiction of the United States. Nevertheless, that + jurisdiction was not immediately acknowledged by the officials who, up to + that time, had been the representatives of the French and Spanish + governments. Part of the territory was transferred from Spain to France + and then from France to the United States. It was intended that the + exploring party should pass the winter of 1803-4 in St. Louis, then a mere + village which had been commonly known as Pain Court. But the Spanish + governor of the province had not been officially told that the country had + been transferred to the United States, and, after the Spanish manner, he + forbade the passage of the Americans through his jurisdiction. In those + days communication between frontier posts and points lying far to the + eastward of the Mississippi was very difficult; it required six weeks to + carry the mails between New York, Philadelphia, and Washington to St. + Louis; and this was the reason why a treaty, ratified in July, was not + officially heard of in St. Louis as late as December of that year. The + explorers, shut out of Spanish territory, recrossed the Mississippi and + wintered at the mouth of Wood River, just above St. Louis, on the eastern + side of the great river, in United States territory. As a matter of + record, it may be said here that the actual transfer of the lower part of + the territory—commonly known as Orleans—took place at New + Orleans, December 20, 1803, and the transfer of the upper part was + effected at St. Louis, March 10, 1804, before the Lewis and Clark + expedition had started on its long journey to the northwestward. + </p> + <p> + All over the small area of the United States then existed a deep interest + in the proposed explorations of the course and sources of the Missouri + River. The explorers were about to plunge into vast solitudes of which + white people knew less than we know now about the North Polar country. + Wild and extravagant stories of what was to be seen in those trackless + regions were circulated in the States. For example, it was said that Lewis + and Clark expected to find the mammoth of prehistoric times still living + and wandering in the Upper Missouri region; and it was commonly reported + that somewhere, a thousand miles or so up the river, was a solid mountain + of rock salt, eighty miles long and forty-five miles wide, destitute of + vegetation and glittering in the sun! These, and other tales like these, + were said to be believed and doted upon by the great Jefferson himself. + The Federalists, or “Feds,” as they were called, who hated Jefferson, + pretended to believe that he had invented some of these foolish yarns, + hoping thereby to make his Louisiana purchase more popular in the + Republic. + </p> + <p> + In his last letter to Captain Lewis, which was to reach the explorers + before they started, Jefferson said: “The acquisition of the country + through which you are to pass has inspired the country generally with a + great deal of interest in your enterprise. The inquiries are perpetual as + to your progress. The Feds alone still treat it as a philosophism, and + would rejoice at its failure. Their bitterness increases with the + diminution of their numbers and despair of a resurrection. I hope you will + take care of yourself, and be a living witness of their malice and folly.” + Indeed, after the explorers were lost sight of in the wilderness which + they were to traverse, many people in the States declaimed bitterly + against the folly that had sent these unfortunate men to perish miserably + in the fathomless depths of the continent. They no longer treated it “as a + philosophism,” or wild prank, but as a wicked scheme to risk life and + property in a search for the mysteries of the unknown and unknowable. + </p> + <p> + As a striking illustration of this uncertainty of the outcome of the + expedition, which exercised even the mind of Jefferson, it may be said + that in his instructions to Captain Lewis he said: “Our Consuls, Thomas + Hewes, at Batavia in Java, William Buchanan in the isles of France and + Bourbon, and John Elmslie at the Cape of Good Hope, will be able to supply + your necessities by drafts on us.” All this seems strange enough to the + young reader of the present day; but this was said and done one hundred + years ago. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0003" id="link2HCH0003"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter III — From the Lower to the Upper River + </h2> + <p> + The party finally set sail up the Missouri River on Monday, May 21, 1804, + but made only a few miles, owing to head winds. Four days later they + camped near the last white settlement on the Missouri,—La Charrette, + a little village of seven poor houses. Here lived Daniel Boone, the famous + Kentucky backwoodsman, then nearly seventy years old, but still vigorous, + erect, and strong of limb. Here and above this place the explorers began + to meet with unfamiliar Indian tribes and names. For example, they met two + canoes loaded with furs “from the Mahar nation.” The writer of the Lewis + and Clark journal, upon whose notes we rely for our story, made many slips + of this sort. By “Mahars” we must understand that the Omahas were meant. + We shall come across other such instances in which the strangers mistook + the pronunciation of Indian names. For example, Kansas was by them + misspelled as “Canseze” and “Canzan;” and there appear some thirteen or + fourteen different spellings of Sioux, of which one of the most + far-fetched is “Scouex.” + </p> + <p> + The explorers were now in a country unknown to them and almost unknown to + any white man. On the thirty-first of May, a messenger came down the Grand + Osage River bringing a letter from a person who wrote that the Indians, + having been notified that the country had been ceded to the Americans, + burned the letter containing the tidings, refusing to believe the report. + The Osage Indians, through whose territory they were now passing, were + among the largest and finest-formed red men of the West. Their name came + from the river along which they warred and hunted, but their proper title, + as they called themselves, was “the Wabashas,” and from them, in later + years, we derive the familiar name of Wabash. A curious tradition of this + people, according to the journal of Lewis and Clark, is that the founder + of the nation was a snail, passing a quiet existence along the banks of + the Osage, till a high flood swept him down to the Missouri, and left him + exposed on the shore. The heat of the sun at length ripened him into a + man; but with the change of his nature he had not forgotten his native + seats on the Osage, towards which he immediately bent his way. He was, + however, soon overtaken by hunger and fatigue, when happily, the Great + Spirit appeared, and, giving him a bow and arrow, showed him how to kill + and cook deer, and cover himself with the skin. He then proceeded to his + original residence; but as he approached the river he was met by a beaver, + who inquired haughtily who he was, and by what authority he came to + disturb his possession. The Osage answered that the river was his own, for + he had once lived on its borders. As they stood disputing, the daughter of + the beaver came, and having, by her entreaties, reconciled her father to + this young stranger, it was proposed that the Osage should marry the young + beaver, and share with her family the enjoyment of the river. The Osage + readily consented, and from this happy union there soon came the village + and the nation of the Wabasha, or Osages, who have ever since preserved a + pious reverence for their ancestors, abstaining from the chase of the + beaver, because in killing that animal they killed a brother of the Osage. + Of late years, however, since the trade with the whites has rendered + beaver-skins more valuable, the sanctity of these maternal relatives has + been visibly reduced, and the poor animals have lost all the privileges of + kindred. + </p> + <p> + Game was abundant all along the river as the explorers sailed up the + stream. Their hunters killed numbers of deer, and at the mouth of Big Good + Woman Creek, which empties into the Missouri near the present town of + Franklin, Howard County, three bears were brought into the camp. Here, + too, they began to find salt springs, or “salt licks,” to which many wild + animals resorted for salt, of which they were very fond. Saline County, + Missouri, perpetuates the name given to the region by Lewis and Clark. + Traces of buffalo were also found here, and occasional wandering traders + told them that the Indians had begun to hunt the buffalo now that the + grass had become abundant enough to attract this big game from regions + lying further south. + </p> + <p> + By the tenth of June the party had entered the country of the Ayauway + nation. This was an easy way of spelling the word now familiar to us as + “Iowa.” But before that spelling was reached, it was Ayaway, Ayahwa, + Iawai, Iaway, and so on. The remnants of this once powerful tribe now + number scarcely two hundred persons. In Lewis and Clark’s time, they were + a large nation, with several hundred warriors, and were constantly at war + with their neighbors. Game here grew still more abundant, and in addition + to deer and bear the hunters brought in a raccoon. One of these hunters + brought into camp a wild tale of a snake which, he said, “made a guttural + noise like a turkey.” One of the French voyageurs confirmed this story; + but the croaking snake was never found and identified. + </p> + <p> + On the twenty-fourth of June the explorers halted to prepare some of the + meat which their hunters brought in. Numerous herds of deer were feeding + on the abundant grass and young willows that grew along the river banks. + The meat, cut in small strips, or ribbons, was dried quickly in the hot + sun. This was called “jirked” meat. Later on the word was corrupted into + “jerked,” and “jerked beef” is not unknown at the present day. The verb + “jerk” is corrupted from the Chilian word, charqui, meaning sun-dried + meat; but it is not easy to explain how the Chilian word got into the + Northwest. + </p> + <p> + As the season advanced, the party found many delicious wild fruits, such + as currants, plums, raspberries, wild apples, and vast quantities of + mulberries. Wild turkeys were also found in large numbers, and the party + had evidently entered a land of plenty. Wild geese were abundant, and + numerous tracks of elk were seen. But we may as well say here that the + so-called elk of the Northwest is not the elk of ancient Europe; a more + correct and distinctive name for this animal is wapiti, the name given the + animal by the Indians. The European elk more closely resembles the + American moose. Its antlers are flat, low, and palmated like our moose; + whereas the antlers of the American elk, so-called, are long, high, and + round-shaped with many sharp points or tines. The mouth of the great + Platte River was reached on the twenty-first of July. This famous stream + was then regarded as a sort of boundary line between the known and unknown + regions. As mariners crossing the equator require all their comrades, who + have not been “over the line” to submit to lathering and shaving, so the + Western voyageurs merrily compelled their mates to submit to similar + horse-play. The great river was also the mark above which explorers + entered upon what was called the Upper Missouri. + </p> + <p> + The expedition was now advancing into a region inhabited by several + wandering tribes of Indians, chief of which were the Ottoes, Missouris, + and Pawnees. It was determined, therefore, to call a council of some of + the chiefs of these bands and make terms of peace with them. After some + delay, the messengers sent out to them brought in fourteen representative + Indians, to whom the white men made presents of roast meat, pork, flour, + and corn-meal, in return for which their visitors brought them quantities + of delicious watermelons. “Next day, August 3,” says the journal, “the + Indians, with their six chiefs, were all assembled under an awning formed + with the mainsail, in presence of all our party, paraded for the occasion. + A speech was then made, announcing to them the change in the government, + our promises of protection, and advice as to their future conduct. All the + six chiefs replied to our speech, each in his turn, according to rank. + They expressed their joy at the change in the government; their hopes that + we would recommend them to their Great Father (the president), that they + might obtain trade and necessaries: they wanted arms as well for hunting + as for defence, and asked our mediation between them and the Mahas, with + whom they are now at war. We promised to do so, and wished some of them to + accompany us to that nation, which they declined, for fear of being killed + by them. We then proceeded to distribute our presents. The grand chief of + the nation not being of the party, we sent him a flag, a medal, and some + ornaments for clothing. To the six chiefs who were present, we gave a + medal of the second grade to one Ottoe chief and one Missouri chief; a + medal of the third grade to two inferior chiefs of each nation; the + customary mode of recognizing a chief being to place a medal round his + neck, which is considered among his tribe as a proof of his consideration + abroad. Each of these medals was accompanied by a present of paint, + garters, and cloth ornaments of dress; and to this we added a canister of + powder, a bottle of whiskey, and a few presents to the whole, which + appeared to make them perfectly satisfied. The air-gun, too, was fired, + and astonished them greatly. The absent grand chief was an Ottoe, named + Weahrushhah, which, in English, degenerates into Little Thief. The two + principal chieftains present were Shongotongo, or Big Horse, and Wethea, + or Hospitality; also Shosguscan, or White Horse, an Ottoe; the first an + Ottoe, the second a Missouri. The incidents just related induced us to + give to this place the name of the Council Bluffs: the situation of it is + exceedingly favorable for a fort and trading factory, as the soil is well + calculated for bricks, and there is an abundance of wood in the + neighborhood, and the air being pure and healthy.” + </p> + <p> + Of course the reader will recognize, in the name given to this place by + Lewis and Clark, the flourishing modern city of Council Bluffs, Iowa. + Nevertheless, as a matter of fact, the council took place on the Nebraskan + or western side of the river, and the meeting-place was at some distance + above the site of the present city of Council Bluffs. + </p> + <p> + Above Council Bluffs the explorers found the banks of the river to be high + and bluffy, and on one of the highlands which they passed they saw the + burial-place of Blackbird, one of the great men of the Mahars, or Omahas, + who had died of small-pox. A mound, twelve feet in diameter and six feet + high, had been raised over the grave, and on a tall pole at the summit the + party fixed a flag of red, white, and blue. The place was regarded as + sacred by the Omahas, who kept the dead chieftain well supplied with + provisions. The small-pox had caused great mortality among the Indians; + and a few years before the white men’s visit, when the fell disease had + destroyed four hundred men, with a due proportion of women and children, + the survivors burned their village and fled. + </p> + <p> + “They had been a military and powerful people; but when these warriors saw + their strength wasting before a malady which they could not resist, their + frenzy was extreme; they burned their village, and many of them put to + death their wives and children, to save them from so cruel an affliction, + and that all might go together to some better country.” + </p> + <p> + In Omaha, or Mahar Creek, the explorers made their first experiment in + dragging the stream for fish. With a drag of willows, loaded with stones, + they succeeded in catching a great variety of fine fish, over three + hundred at one haul, and eight hundred at another. These were pike, bass, + salmon-trout, catfish, buffalo fish, perch, and a species of shrimp, all + of which proved an acceptable addition to their usual flesh bill-of-fare. + </p> + <p> + Desiring to call in some of the surrounding Indian tribes, they here set + fire to the dry prairie grass, that being the customary signal for a + meeting of different bands of roving peoples. In the afternoon of August + 18, a party of Ottoes, headed by Little Thief and Big Horse, came in, with + six other chiefs and a French interpreter. The journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “We met them under a shade, and after they had finished a repast with + which we supplied them, we inquired into the origin of the war between + them and the Mahas, which they related with great frankness. It seems that + two of the Missouris went to the Mahas to steal horses, but were detected + and killed; the Ottoes and Missouris thought themselves bound to avenge + their companions, and the whole nations were at last obliged to share in + the dispute. They are also in fear of a war from the Pawnees, whose + village they entered this summer, while the inhabitants were hunting, and + stole their corn. This ingenuous confession did not make us the less + desirous of negotiating a peace for them; but no Indians have as yet been + attracted by our fire. The evening was closed by a dance; and the next + day, the chiefs and warriors being assembled at ten o’clock, we explained + the speech we had already sent from the Council Bluffs, and renewed our + advice. They all replied in turn, and the presents were then distributed. + We exchanged the small medal we had formerly given to the Big Horse for + one of the same size with that of Little Thief: we also gave a small medal + to a third chief, and a kind of certificate or letter of acknowledgment to + five of the warriors expressive of our favor and their good intentions. + One of them, dissatisfied, returned us the certificate; but the chief, + fearful of our being offended, begged that it might be restored to him; + this we declined, and rebuked them severely for having in view mere + traffic instead of peace with their neighbors. This displeased them at + first; but they at length all petitioned that it should be given to the + warrior, who then came forward and made an apology to us; we then + delivered it to the chief to be given to the most worthy, and he bestowed + it on the same warrior, whose name was Great Blue Eyes. After a more + substantial present of small articles and tobacco, the council was ended + with a dram to the Indians. In the evening we exhibited different objects + of curiosity, and particularly the air-gun, which gave them great + surprise. Those people are almost naked, having no covering except a sort + of breech-cloth round the middle, with a loose blanket or buffalo robe, + painted, thrown over them. The names of these warriors, besides those + already mentioned, were Karkapaha, or Crow’s Head, and Nenasawa, or Black + Cat, Missouris; and Sananona, or Iron Eyes, Neswaunja, or Big Ox, + Stageaunja, or Big Blue Eyes, and Wasashaco, or Brave Man, all Ottoes.” + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0004" id="link2HCH0004"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter IV — Novel Experiences among the Indians + </h2> + <p> + About this time (the nineteenth and twentieth of August), the explorers + lost by death the only member of their party who did not survive the + journey. Floyd River, which flows into the Upper Missouri, in the + northwest corner of Iowa, still marks the last resting-place of Sergeant + Charles Floyd, who died there of bilious colic and was buried by his + comrades near the mouth of the stream. Near here was a quarry of red + pipestone, dear to the Indian fancy as a mine of material for their pipes; + traces of this deposit still remain. So fond of this red rock were the + Indians that when they went there to get the stuff, even lifelong and + vindictive enemies declared a truce while they gathered the material, and + savage hostile tribes suspended their wars for a time. + </p> + <p> + On the north side of the Missouri, at a point in what is now known as Clay + County, South Dakota, Captains Lewis and Clark, with ten men, turned aside + to see a great natural curiosity, known to the Indians as the Hill of + Little Devils. The hill is a singular mound in the midst of a flat + prairie, three hundred yards long, sixty or seventy yards wide, and about + seventy feet high. The top is a smooth level plain. The journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “The Indians have made it a great article of their superstition: it is + called the Mountain of Little People, or Little Spirits; and they believe + that it is the abode of little devils, in the human form, of about + eighteen inches high, and with remarkably large heads; they are armed with + sharp arrows, with which they are very skilful, and are always on the + watch to kill those who should have the hardihood to approach their + residence. The tradition is, that many have suffered from these little + evil spirits, and, among others, three Maha Indians fell a sacrifice to + them a few years since. This has inspired all the neighboring nations, + Sioux, Mahas, and Ottoes, with such terror, that no consideration could + tempt them to visit the hill. We saw none of these wicked little spirits, + nor any place for them, except some small holes scattered over the top; we + were happy enough to escape their vengeance, though we remained some time + on the mound to enjoy the delightful prospect of the plain, which spreads + itself out till the eye rests upon the northwest hills at a great + distance, and those of the northeast, still farther off, enlivened by + large herds of buffalo feeding at a distance.” + </p> + <p> + The present residents of the region, South Dakota, have preserved the + Indian tradition, and Spirit Mound may be seen on modern maps of that + country. + </p> + <p> + Passing on their way up the Missouri, the explorers found several kinds of + delicious wild plums and vast quantities of grapes; and here, too, they + passed the mouth of the Yankton River, now known as the Dakota, at the + mouth of which is the modern city of Yankton, South Dakota. The + Yankton-Sioux Indians, numbering about one thousand people, inhabited this + part of the country, and near here the white men were met by a large band + of these Sioux who had come in at the invitation of Lewis and Clark. The + messengers from the white men reported that they had been well received by + the Indians, who, as a mark of respect, presented their visitors with “a + fat dog, already cooked, of which they partook heartily and found it + well-flavored.” From this time, according to the journal, the explorers + tasted occasionally of roast dog, and later on they adopted this dish as a + regular feature of their bill-of-fare. They do tell us, however, that they + had some difficulty in getting used to so novel an article of food. + </p> + <p> + The Sioux and the white men held a grand council under an oak-tree, from + the top of which was flying the American flag. The head chief was + presented with a gold-laced uniform of the United States artillery, a + cocked hat and red feather. The lesser chiefs were also presented with + suitable gifts of lesser value. Various festivities followed the + conference. Next day another powwow was held at which the head chief, + Weucha, or Shake Hand, said:— + </p> + <p> + “‘I see before me my great father’s two sons. You see me and the rest of + our chiefs and warriors. We are very poor; we have neither powder, nor + ball, nor knives; and our women and children at the village have no + clothes. I wish that, as my brothers have given me a flag and a medal, + they would give something to those poor people, or let them stop and trade + with the first boat which comes up the river. I will bring the chiefs of + the Pawnees and Mahas together, and make peace between them; but it is + better that I should do it than my great father’s sons, for they will + listen to me more readily. I will also take some chiefs to your country in + the spring; but before that time I cannot leave home. I went formerly to + the English, and they gave me a medal and some clothes: when I went to the + Spaniards they gave me a medal, but nothing to keep it from my skin: but + now you give me a medal and clothes. But still we are poor; and I wish, + brothers, you would give us something for our squaws.’” + </p> + <p> + When he sat down, Mahtoree, or White Crane, rose: + </p> + <p> + “‘I have listened,’ said he, ‘to what our father’s words were yesterday; + and I am to-day glad to see how you have dressed our old chief. I am a + young man, and do not wish to take much; my fathers have made me a chief; + I had much sense before, but now I think I have more than ever. What the + old chief has declared I will confirm, and do whatever he and you please; + but I wish that you would take pity on us, for we are very poor.’ + </p> + <p> + “Another chief, called Pawnawneahpahbe, then said: + </p> + <p> + “‘I am a young man, and know but little; I cannot speak well, but I have + listened to what you have told the old chief, and will do whatever you + agree.’ + </p> + <p> + “The same sentiments were then repeated by Aweawechache. + </p> + <p> + “We were surprised,” the journal says, “at finding that the first of these + titles means Struck by the Pawnee, and was occasioned by some blow which + the chief had received in battle from one of the Pawnee tribe. The second + is in English Half Man, which seemed a singular name for a warrior, till + it was explained to have its origin, probably, in the modesty of the + chief, who, on being told of his exploits, would say, ‘I am no warrior, I + am only half a man.’ The other chiefs spoke very little; but after they + had finished, one of the warriors delivered a speech, in which he declared + he would support them. They promised to make peace with the Ottoes and + Missouris, the only nations with whom they are at war. All these harangues + concluded by describing the distress of the nation: they begged us to have + pity on them; to send them traders; that they wanted powder and ball; and + seemed anxious that we should supply them with some of their great + father’s milk, the name by which they distinguish ardent spirits. We gave + some tobacco to each of the chiefs, and a certificate to two of the + warriors who attended the chief We prevailed on M. Durion (interpreter) to + remain here, and accompany as many of the Sioux chiefs as he could collect + to the seat of government. We also gave his son a flag, some clothes, and + provisions, with directions to bring about a peace between the surrounding + tribes, and to convey some of their chiefs to see the President. + </p> + <p> + “The Indians who have just left us are the Yanktons, a tribe of the great + nation of Sioux. These Yanktons are about two hundred men in number, and + inhabit the Jacques, Des Moines, and Sioux Rivers. In person they are + stout, well proportioned, and have a certain air of dignity and boldness. + In their dress they differ nothing from the other bands of the nation whom + we met afterwards.” + </p> + <p> + Of the Sioux let us say here, there are many bands, or subdivisions. Some + writers make eighteen of these principal branches. But the first + importance is given to the Sioux proper, or Dakotas. The name “Sioux” is + one of reproach, given by their enemies, and signifies “snake;” whereas + “Dakota” means “friend” or “ally.” The Lewis and Clark journal says of the + Yankton-Sioux:— + </p> + <p> + “What struck us most was an institution peculiar to them and to the Kite + (Crow) Indians further to the westward, from whom it is said to have been + copied. It is an association of the most active and brave young men, who + are bound to each other by attachment, secured by a vow, never to retreat + before any danger, or give way to their enemies. In war they go forward + without sheltering themselves behind trees, or aiding their natural valor + by any artifice. Their punctilious determination not to be turned from + their course became heroic, or ridiculous, a short time since, when the + Yanktons were crossing the Missouri on the ice. A hole lay immediately in + their course, which might easily have been avoided by going around. This + the foremost of the band disdained to do, but went straight forward and + was lost. The others would have followed his example, but were forcibly + prevented by the rest of the tribe. These young men sit, camp, and dance + together, distinct from the rest of the nation; they are generally about + thirty or thirty-five years old, and such is the deference paid to courage + that their seats in council are superior to those of the chiefs and their + persons more respected. But, as may be supposed, such indiscreet bravery + will soon diminish the numbers of those who practise it; so that the band + is now reduced to four warriors, who were among our visitors. These were + the remains of twenty-two who composed the society not long ago; but, in a + battle with the Kite (Crow) Indians of the Black Mountains, eighteen of + them were killed, and these four were dragged from the field by their + companions.” + </p> + <p> + Just above the site of the city of Yankton, and near what is still known + as Bon Homme Island, Captain Clark explored a singular earth formation in + a bend of the river. This had all the appearance of an ancient + fortification, stretching across the bend and furnished with redoubts and + other features of a great fort. In the journal is given a glowing account + of the work and an elaborate map of the same. Modern research, however, + has proved that this strange arrangement of walls and parapets is only a + series of sand ridges formed by the currents of the river and driftings of + sand. Many of these so-called earthworks are situated on the west bank of + the Upper Missouri, in North Dakota and South Dakota. + </p> + <p> + A few days later, the party saw a species of animal which they described + as “goats,”—very fleet, with short pronged horns inclining backward, + and with grayish hair, marked with white on the rump. This creature, + however, was the American antelope, then unknown to science, and first + described by Lewis and Clark. While visiting a strange dome-shaped + mountain, “resembling a cupola,” and now known as “the Tower,” the + explorers found the abode of another animal, heretofore unknown to them. + “About four acres of ground,” says the journal, “was covered with small + holes.” The account continues: “These are the residence of a little + animal, called by the French petit chien (little dog), which sit erect + near the mouth, and make a whistling noise, but, when alarmed, take refuge + in their holes. In order to bring them out we poured into one of the holes + five barrels of water without filling it, but we dislodged and caught the + owner. After digging down another of the holes for six feet, we found, on + running a pole into it, that we had not yet dug half-way to the bottom: we + discovered, however, two frogs in the hole, and near it we killed a dark + rattlesnake, which had swallowed a small prairie dog. We were also + informed, though we never witnessed the fact, that a sort of lizard and a + snake live habitually with these animals. The petit chien are justly + named, as they resemble a small dog in some particulars, although they + have also some points of similarity to the squirrel. The head resembles + the squirrel in every respect, except that the ear is shorter; the tail + like that of the ground squirrel; the toe nails are long, the fur is fine, + and the long hair is gray.” + </p> + <p> + Great confusion has been caused in the minds of readers on account of + there being another burrowing animal, called by Lewis and Clark “the + burrowing squirrel,” which resembles the petit chien in some respects. But + the little animal described here is now well known as the prairie-dog,—an + unfortunate and misleading name. It is in no sense a species of dog. The + creature commonly weighs about three pounds, and its note resembles that + of a toy-dog. It is a species of marmot; it subsists on grass roots and + other vegetable products; its flesh is delicate and, when fat, of good + flavor. The writer of these lines, when crossing the great plains, in + early times, found the “prairie-dogs” excellent eating, but difficult to + kill; they are expert at diving into their holes at the slightest signal + of danger. + </p> + <p> + The following days they saw large herds of buffalo, and the copses of + timber appeared to contain elk and deer, “just below Cedar Island,” adds + the journal, “on a hill to the south, is the backbone of a fish, + forty-five feet long, tapering towards the tail, and in a perfect state of + petrifaction, fragments of which were collected and sent to Washington.” + This was not a fish, but the fossil remains of a reptile of one of the + earliest geological periods. Here, too, the party saw immense herds of + buffalo, thousands in number, some of which they killed for their meat and + skins. They also saw elk, deer, turkeys, grouse, beaver, and prairie-dogs. + The journal bitterly complains of the “moschetoes,” which were very + troublesome. As mosquitoes we now know them. + </p> + <p> + Oddly enough, the journal sometimes speaks of “goats” and sometimes of + “antelopes,” and the same animal is described in both instances. Here is a + good story of the fleetness of the beautiful creature:— + </p> + <p> + “Of all the animals we had seen, the antelope seems to possess the most + wonderful fleetness. Shy and timorous, they generally repose only on the + ridges, which command a view of all the approaches of an enemy: the + acuteness of their sight distinguishes the most distant danger; the + delicate sensibility of their smell defeats the precautions of + concealment; and, when alarmed, their rapid career seems more like the + flight of birds than the movements of a quadruped. After many unsuccessful + attempts, Captain Lewis at last, by winding around the ridges, approached + a party of seven, which were on an eminence towards which the wind was + unfortunately blowing. The only male of the party frequently encircled the + summit of the hill, as if to announce any danger to the females, which + formed a group at the top. Although they did not see Captain Lewis, the + smell alarmed them, and they fled when he was at the distance of two + hundred yards: he immediately ran to the spot where they had been; a + ravine concealed them from him; but the next moment they appeared on a + second ridge, at the distance of three miles. He doubted whether they + could be the same; but their number, and the extreme rapidity with which + they continued their course, convinced him that they must have gone with a + speed equal to that of the most distinguished race-horse. Among our + acquisitions to-day were a mule-deer, a magpie, a common deer, and + buffalo: Captain Lewis also saw a hare, and killed a rattlesnake near the + burrows of the barking squirrels.” + </p> + <p> + By “barking squirrels” the reader must understand that the animal better + known as the prairie-dog is meant; and the mule-deer, as the explorers + called it, was not a hybrid, but a deer with very long ears, better known + afterwards as the black-tailed deer. + </p> + <p> + At the Big Bend of the Missouri, in the heart of what is now South Dakota, + while camped on a sand-bar, the explorers had a startling experience. + “Shortly after midnight,” says the journal, “the sleepers were startled by + the sergeant on guard crying out that the sand-bar was sinking, and the + alarm was timely given; for scarcely had they got off with the boats + before the bank under which they had been lying fell in; and by the time + the opposite shore was reached, the ground on which they had been encamped + sunk also. A man who was sent to step off the distance across the head of + the bend, made it but two thousand yards, while its circuit is thirty + miles.” + </p> + <p> + The next day, three Sioux boys swam the river and told them that two + parties of their nation, one of eighty lodges, and one of sixty lodges, + were camped up the river, waiting to have a palaver with the white + explorers. These were Teton Sioux, and the river named for them still + bears that title. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0005" id="link2HCH0005"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter V — From the Tetons to the Mandans + </h2> + <p> + “On the morning of September 25th,” says the journal, “we raised a + flagstaff and an awning, under which we assembled, with all the party + parading under arms. The chiefs and warriors, from the camps two miles up + the river, met us, about fifty or sixty in number, and after smoking we + delivered them a speech; but as our Sioux interpreter, M. Durion, had been + left with the Yanktons, we were obliged to make use of a Frenchman who + could not speak fluently, and therefore we curtailed our harangue. After + this we went through the ceremony of acknowledging the chiefs, by giving + to the grand chief a medal, a flag of the United States, a laced uniform + coat, a cocked hat and feather; to the two other chiefs, a medal and some + small presents; and to two warriors of consideration, certificates. The + name of the great chief is Untongasabaw, or Black Buffalo; the second, + Tortohonga, or the Partisan; the third, Tartongawaka, or Buffalo Medicine; + the name of one of the warriors was Wawzinggo; that of the second, + Matocoquepa, or Second Bear. We then invited the chiefs on board, and + showed them the boat, the air-gun, and such curiosities as we thought + might amuse them. In this we succeeded too well; for, after giving them a + quarter of a glass of whiskey, which they seemed to like very much, and + sucked the bottle, it was with much difficulty that we could get rid of + them. They at last accompanied Captain Clark on shore, in a pirogue with + five men; but it seems they had formed a design to stop us; for no sooner + had the party landed than three of the Indians seized the cable of the + pirogue, and one of the soldiers of the chief put his arms round the mast. + The second chief, who affected intoxication, then said that we should not + go on; that they had not received presents enough from us. Captain Clark + told him that he would not be prevented from going on; that we were not + squaws, but warriors; that we were sent by our great father, who could in + a moment exterminate them. The chief replied that he too had warriors, and + was proceeding to offer personal violence to Captain Clark, who + immediately drew his sword, and made a signal to the boat to prepare for + action. The Indians, who surrounded him, drew their arrows from their + quivers, and were bending their bows, when the swivel in the boat was + instantly pointed towards them, and twelve of our most determined men + jumped into the pirogue and joined Captain Clark. This movement made an + impression on them, for the grand chief ordered the young men away from + the pirogue, and they withdrew and held a short council with the warriors. + Being unwilling to irritate them, Captain Clark then went forward, and + offered his hand to the first and second chiefs, who refused to take it. + He then turned from them and got into the pirogue; but he had not got more + than ten paces, when both the chiefs and two of the warriors waded in + after him, and he brought them on board. We then proceeded on for a mile, + and anchored off a willow island, which, from the circumstances which had + just occurred, we called Bad-humored Island.” + </p> + <p> + The policy of firmness and gentleness, which Lewis and Clark always + pursued when treating with the Indians, had its good results at this time. + What might have been a bloody encounter was averted, and next day the + Indians contritely came into camp and asked that their squaws and children + might see the white men and their boats, which would be to them a novel + sight. This was agreed to, and after the expedition had sailed up the + river and had been duly admired by a great crowd of men, women, and + children, the Tetons invited the white men to a dance. The journal adds:— + </p> + <p> + “Captains Lewis and Clark, who went on shore one after the other, were met + on landing by ten well-dressed young men, who took them up in a robe + highly decorated and carried them to a large council-house, where they + were placed on a dressed buffalo-skin by the side of the grand chief. The + hall or council-room was in the shape of three-quarters of a circle, + covered at the top and sides with skins well dressed and sewed together. + Under this shelter sat about seventy men, forming a circle round the + chief, before whom were placed a Spanish flag and the one we had given + them yesterday. This left a vacant circle of about six feet diameter, in + which the pipe of peace was raised on two forked sticks, about six or + eight inches from the ground, and under it the down of the swan was + scattered. A large fire, in which they were cooking provisions, stood + near, and in the centre about four hundred pounds of buffalo meat as a + present for us. As soon as we were seated, an old man got up, and after + approving what we had done, begged us take pity on their unfortunate + situation. To this we replied with assurances of protection. After he had + ceased, the great chief rose and delivered a harangue to the same effect; + then with great solemnity he took some of the most delicate parts of the + dog which was cooked for the festival, and held it to the flag by way of + sacrifice; this done, he held up the pipe of peace, and first pointed it + toward the heavens, then to the four quarters of the globe, then to the + earth, made a short speech, lighted the pipe, and presented it to us. We + smoked, and he again harangued his people, after which the repast was + served up to us. It consisted of the dog which they had just been cooking, + this being a great dish among the Sioux, and used on all festivals; to + this were added pemitigon, a dish made of buffalo meat, dried or jerked, + and then pounded and mixed raw with grease and a kind of ground potato, + dressed like the preparation of Indian corn called hominy, to which it is + little inferior. Of all these luxuries, which were placed before us in + platters with horn spoons, we took the pemitigon and the potato, which we + found good, but we could as yet partake but sparingly of the dog.” + </p> + <p> + The “pemitigon” mentioned here is better known as pemmican, a sort of + dried meat, which may be eaten as prepared, or pounded fine and cooked + with other articles of food. This festival concluded with a grand dance, + which at midnight wound up the affair. + </p> + <p> + As the description of these Tetons, given by Lewis and Clark, will give + the reader a good idea of the manners, customs, and personal appearance of + most of the Sioux nation, we will copy the journal in full. It is as + follows: + </p> + <p> + “The tribe which we this day saw are a part of the great Sioux nation, and + are known by the name of the Teton Okandandas: they are about two hundred + men in number, and their chief residence is on both sides of the Missouri, + between the Chayenne and Teton Rivers. In their persons they are rather + ugly and ill-made, their legs and arms being too small, their cheek-bones + high, and their eyes projecting. The females, with the same character of + form, are more handsome; and both sexes appear cheerful and sprightly; but + in our intercourse with them we discovered that they were cunning and + vicious. + </p> + <p> + “The men shave the hair off their heads, except a small tuft on the top, + which they suffer to grow, and wear in plaits over the shoulders; to this + they seem much attached, as the loss of it is the usual sacrifice at the + death of near relations. In full dress, the men of consideration wear a + hawk’s feather, or calumet feather worked with porcupine quills, and + fastened to the top of the head, from which it falls back. The face and + body are generally painted with a mixture of grease and coal. Over the + shoulders is a loose robe or mantle of buffalo skin dressed white, adorned + with porcupine quills, loosely fixed, so as to make a jingling noise when + in motion, and painted with various uncouth figures, unintelligible to us, + but to them emblematic of military exploits or any other incident: the + hair of the robe is worn next the skin in fair weather, but when it rains + the hair is put outside, and the robe is either thrown over the arm or + wrapped round the body, all of which it may cover. Under this, in the + winter season, they wear a kind of shirt resembling ours, made either of + skin or cloth, and covering the arms and body. Round the middle is fixed a + girdle of cloth, or procured dressed elk-skin, about an inch in width, and + closely tied to the body; to this is attached a piece of cloth, or + blanket, or skin, about a foot wide, which passes between the legs, and is + tucked under the girdle both before and behind. From the hip to the ankle + is covered by leggins of dressed antelope skins, with seams at the sides + two inches in width, and ornamented by little tufts of hair, the produce + of the scalps they have made in war, which are scattered down the leg. The + winter moccasins are of dressed buffalo skin, the hair being worn inward, + and soled with thick elk-skin parchment; those for summer are of deer or + elk-skin, dressed without the hair, and with soles of elk-skin. On great + occasions, or whenever they are in full dress, the young men drag after + them the entire skin of a polecat fixed to the heel of the moccasin. + Another skin of the same animal, either tucked into the girdle or carried + in the hand, serves as a pouch for their tobacco, or what the French + traders call bois roule.(1) This is the inner bark of a species of red + willow, which, being dried in the sun or over the fire, is, rubbed between + the hands and broken into small pieces, and used alone or mixed with + tobacco. The pipe is generally of red earth, the stem made of ash, about + three or four feet long, and highly decorated with feathers, hair, and + porcupine-quills. . . . + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + (1) This is bois roule, or “rolled wood,” a poor kind of + tobacco rolled with various kinds of leaves, such as the + sumach and dogwood. The Indian name is kinnikinick. +</pre> + <p> + “While on shore to-day we witnessed a quarrel between two squaws, which + appeared to be growing every moment more boisterous, when a man came + forward, at whose approach every one seemed terrified and ran. He took the + squaws and without any ceremony whipped them severely. On inquiring into + the nature of such summary justice, we learned that this man was an + officer well known to this and many other tribes. His duty is to keep the + peace, and the whole interior police of the village is confided to two or + three of these officers, who are named by the chief and remain in power + some days, at least till the chief appoints a successor. They seem to be a + sort of constable or sentinel, since they are always on the watch to keep + tranquillity during the day and guard the camp in the night. The short + duration of the office is compensated by its authority. His power is + supreme, and in the suppression of any riot or disturbance no resistance + to him is suffered; his person is sacred, and if in the execution of his + duty he strikes even a chief of the second class, he cannot be punished + for this salutary insolence. In general he accompanies the person of the + chief, and when ordered to any duty, however dangerous, it is a point of + honor rather to die than to refuse obedience. Thus, when they attempted to + stop us yesterday, the chief ordered one of these men to take possession + of the boat; he immediately put his arms around the mast, and, as we + understood, no force except the command of the chief would have induced + him to release his hold. Like the other men his body is blackened, but his + distinguishing mark is a collection of two or three raven-skins fixed to + the girdle behind the back in such a way that the tails stick out + horizontally from the body. On his head, too, is a raven-skin split into + two parts, and tied so as to let the beak project from the forehead.” + </p> + <p> + When the party of explorers subsequently made ready to leave, signs of + reluctance to have them go were apparent among the Indians. Finally, + several of the chief warriors sat on the rope that held the boat to the + shore. Irritated by this, Captain Lewis got ready to fire upon the + warriors, but, anxious to avoid bloodshed, he gave them more tobacco, + which they wanted, and then said to the chief, “You have told us that you + were a great man, and have influence; now show your influence by taking + the rope from those men, and we will then go on without further trouble.” + This appeal to the chieftain’s pride had the desired effect. The warriors + were compelled to give up the rope, which was delivered on board, and the + party set sail with a fresh breeze from the southeast. + </p> + <p> + The explorers were soon out of the country of the Teton Sioux and into + that of the Ricaras, or, as these Indians are more commonly called, the + Rickarees. + </p> + <p> + On the first day of October they passed the mouth of a river incorrectly + known as Dog River, as if corrupted from the French word chien. But the + true name is Cheyenne, from the Indians who bear that title. The stream + rises in the region called the Black Mountains by Lewis and Clark, on + account of the great quantity of dark cedar and pine trees that covered + the hills. This locality is now known as the Black Hills, in the midst of + which is the famous mining district of Deadwood. In these mountains, + according to Lewis and Clark, were to be found “great quantities of goats, + white bear, prairie cocks, and a species of animal which resembled a small + elk, with large circular horns.” By the “white bear” the reader must + understand that the grizzly bear is meant. Although this animal, which was + first discovered and described by Lewis and Clark, is commonly referred to + in the earlier pages of the journal as “white,” the error naturally came + from a desire to distinguish it from the black and the cinnamon-colored + bears. Afterwards, the journal refers to this formidable creature as the + grizzly, and again as the grisly. Certainly, the bear was a grizzled gray; + but the name “grisly,” that is to say, horrible, or frightful, fitted him + very well. The Latin name, <i>ursus horribilis</i> is not unlike one of + those of Lewis and Clark’s selection. The animals with circular curled + horns, which the explorers thought resembled a small elk, are now known as + the Rocky Mountain sheep, or bighorn. They very little resemble sheep, + however, except in color, head, horns, and feet. They are now so scarce as + to be almost extinct. They were among the discoveries of Lewis and Clark. + The prairie cock is known to western sportsmen as “prairie chicken;” it is + a species of grouse. + </p> + <p> + It was now early in October, and the weather became very cool. So great is + the elevation of those regions that, although the days might be + oppressively warm, the nights were cold and white frosts were frequent. + Crossing the Rocky Mountains at the South Pass, far south of Lewis and + Clark’s route, emigrants who suffered from intense heat during the middle + of day found water in their pails frozen solid in the morning. + </p> + <p> + The Rickarees were very curious and inquisitive regarding the white men. + But the journal adds: “The object which appeared to astonish the Indians + most was Captain Clark’s servant York, a remarkably stout, strong negro. + They had never seen a being of that color, and therefore flocked round him + to examine the extraordinary monster. By way of amusement, he told them + that he had once been a wild animal, and been caught and tamed by his + master; and to convince them, showed them feats of strength which, added + to his looks, made him more terrible than we wished him to be.” + </p> + <p> + “On October 10th,” says the journal, “the weather was fine, and as we were + desirous of assembling the whole nation at once, we despatched Mr. + Gravelines (a trader)—who, with Mr. Tabeau, another French trader, + had breakfasted with us—to invite the chiefs of the two upper + villages to a conference. They all assembled at one o’clock, and after the + usual ceremonies we addressed them in the same way in which we had already + spoken to the Ottoes and Sioux. We then made or acknowledged three chiefs, + one for each of the three villages; giving to each a flag, a medal, a red + coat, a cocked hat and feather, also some goods, paint and tobacco, which + they divided among themselves. After this the air-gun was exhibited, very + much to their astonishment, nor were they less surprised at the color and + manner of York. On our side we were equally gratified at discovering that + these Ricaras made use of no spirituous liquors of any kind, the example + of the traders who bring it to them, so far from tempting, having in fact + disgusted them. Supposing that it was as agreeable to them as to the other + Indians, we had at first offered them whiskey; but they refused it with + this sensible remark, that they were surprised that their father should + present to them a liquor which would make them fools. On another occasion + they observed to Mr. Tabeau that no man could be their friend who tried to + lead them into such follies.” + </p> + <p> + Presents were exchanged by the Indians and the white men; among the gifts + from the former was a quantity of a large, rich bean, which grows wild and + is collected by mice. The Indians hunt for the mice’s deposits and cook + and eat them. The Rickarees had a grand powwow with the white chiefs and, + after accepting presents, agreed to preserve peace with all men, red or + white. On the thirteenth of the month the explorers discovered a stream + which they named Stone-Idol Creek, on account of two stones, resembling + human figures, which adorn its banks. The creek is now known as Spring + River, and is in Campbell County, South Dakota. Concerning the stone + images the Indians gave this tradition:— + </p> + <p> + “A young man was deeply enamoured with a girl whose parents refused their + consent to the marriage. The youth went out into the fields to mourn his + misfortunes; a sympathy of feeling led the lady to the same spot, and the + faithful dog would not cease to follow his master. After wandering + together and having nothing but grapes to subsist on, they were at last + converted into stone, which, beginning at the feet, gradually invaded the + nobler parts, leaving nothing unchanged but a bunch of grapes which the + female holds in her hand to this day. Whenever the Ricaras pass these + sacred stones, they stop to make some offering of dress to propitiate + these deities. Such is the account given by the Ricara chief, which we had + no mode of examining, except that we found one part of the story very + agreeably confirmed; for on the river near where the event is said to have + occurred we found a greater abundance of fine grapes than we had yet + seen.” + </p> + <p> + While at their last camp in the country now known as South Dakota, October + 14, 1804, one of the soldiers, tried by a court-martial for mutinous + conduct, was sentenced to receive seventy-five lashes on the bare back. + The sentence was carried out then and there. The Rickaree chief, who + accompanied the party for a time, was so affected by the sight that he + cried aloud during the whole proceeding. When the reasons for the + punishment were explained to him, he acknowledged the justice of the + sentence, but said he would have punished the offender with death. His + people, he added, never whip even their children at any age whatever. + </p> + <p> + On the eighteenth of October, the party reached Cannonball River, which + rises in the Black Hills and empties in the Missouri in Morton County, + North Dakota. Its name is derived from the perfectly round, smooth, black + stones that line its bed and shores. Here they saw great numbers of + antelope and herds of buffalo, and of elk. They killed six fallow deer; + and next day they counted fifty-two herds of buffalo and three herds of + elk at one view; they also observed deer, wolves, and pelicans in large + numbers. + </p> + <p> + The ledges in the bluffs along the river often held nests of the calumet + bird, or golden eagle. These nests, which are apparently resorted to, year + after year, by the same pair of birds, are usually out of reach, except by + means of ropes by which the hunters are let down from the cliffs overhead. + The tail-feathers of the bird are twelve in number, about a foot long, and + are pure white except at the tip, which is jet-black. So highly prized are + these by the Indians that they have been known to exchange a good horse + for two feathers. + </p> + <p> + The party saw here a great many elk, deer, antelope, and buffalo, and + these last were dogged along their way by wolves who follow them to feed + upon those that die by accident, or are too weak to keep up with the herd. + Sometimes the wolves would pounce upon a calf, too young and feeble to + trot with the other buffalo; and although the mother made an effort to + save her calf, the creature was left to the hungry wolves, the herd moving + along without delay. + </p> + <p> + On the twenty-first of October, the explorers reached a creek to which the + Indians gave the name of Chisshetaw, now known as Heart River, which, + rising in Stark County, North Dakota, and running circuitously through + Morton County, empties into the Missouri opposite the city of Bismarck. At + this point the Northern Pacific Railway now crosses the Missouri; and + here, where is built the capital of North Dakota, began, in those days, a + series of Mandan villages, with the people of which the explorers were to + become tolerably well acquainted; for it had been decided that the + increasing cold of the weather would compel them to winter in this region. + But they were as yet uncertain as to the exact locality at which they + would build their camp of winter. Here they met one of the grand chiefs of + the Mandans, who was on a hunting excursion with his braves. This chief + greeted with much ceremony the Rickaree chief who accompanied the + exploring party. The Mandans and Rickarees were ancient enemies, but, + following the peaceful councils of the white men, the chiefs professed + amity and smoked together the pipe of peace. A son of the Mandan chief was + observed to have lost both of his little fingers, and when the strangers + asked how this happened, they were told that the fingers had been cut off + (according to the Mandan custom) to show the grief of the young man at the + loss of some of his relations. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0006" id="link2HCH0006"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter VI — Winter among the Mandans + </h2> + <p> + Before finally selecting the spot on which to build their winter quarters, + Lewis and Clark held councils with the chiefs of the tribes who were to be + their neighbors during the cold season. These were Mandans, Annahaways, + and Minnetarees, tribes living peacefully in the same region of country. + The principal Mandan chief was Black Cat; White Buffalo Robe Unfolded + represented the Annahaways, and the Minnetaree chief was Black Moccasin. + This last-named chief could not come to the council, but was represented + by Caltahcota, or Cherry on a Bush. The palaver being over, presents were + distributed. The account says:— + </p> + <p> + “One chief of each town was acknowledged by a gift of a flag, a medal with + the likeness of the President of the United States, a uniform coat, hat + and feather. To the second chiefs we gave a medal representing some + domestic animals and a loom for weaving; to the third chiefs, medals with + the impressions of a farmer sowing grain. A variety of other presents were + distributed, but none seemed to give them more satisfaction than an iron + corn-mill which we gave to the Mandans. . . . + </p> + <p> + “In the evening the prairie took fire, either by accident or design, and + burned with great fury, the whole plain being enveloped in flames. So + rapid was its progress that a man and a woman were burned to death before + they could reach a place of safety; another man, with his wife and child, + were much burned, and several other persons narrowly escaped destruction. + Among the rest, a boy of the half white breed escaped unhurt in the midst + of the flames; his safety was ascribed to the great medicine spirit, who + had preserved him on account of his being white. But a much more natural + cause was the presence of mind of his mother, who, seeing no hopes of + carrying off her son, threw him on the ground, and, covering him with the + fresh hide of a buffalo, escaped herself from the flames. As soon as the + fire had passed, she returned and found him untouched, the skin having + prevented the flame from reaching the grass on which he lay.” + </p> + <p> + Next day, says the journal,— + </p> + <p> + “We were visited by two persons from the lower village: one, the Big + White, the chief of the village; the other, the Chayenne, called the Big + Man: they had been hunting, and did not return yesterday early enough to + attend the council. At their request we repeated part of our speech of + yesterday, and put the medal round the neck of the chief. Captain Clark + took a pirogue and went up the river in search of a good wintering-place, + and returned after going seven miles to the lower point of an island on + the north side, about one mile in length. He found the banks on the north + side high, with coal occasionally, and the country fine on all sides; but + the want of wood, and the scarcity of game up the river, induced us to + decide on fixing ourselves lower down during the winter. In the evening + our men danced among themselves, to the great amusement of the Indians.” + </p> + <p> + It may be said here that the incident of a life saved from fire by a + raw-hide, originally related by Lewis and Clark, is the foundation of a + great many similar stories of adventures among the Indians. Usually, + however, it is a wise and well-seasoned white trapper who saves his life + by this device. + </p> + <p> + Having found a good site for their winter camp, the explorers now built a + number of huts, which they called Fort Mandan. The place was on the north + bank of the Missouri River, in what is now McLean County, North Dakota, + about sixteen hundred miles up the river from St. Louis, and seven or + eight miles below the mouth of Big Knife River. On the opposite bank, + years later, the United States built a military post known as Fort Clark, + which may be found on some of the present-day maps. The huts were built of + logs, and were arranged in two rows, four rooms in each hut, the whole + number being placed in the form of an angle, with a stockade, or picket, + across the two outer ends of the angle, in which was a gate, kept locked + at night. The roofs of the huts slanted upward from the inner side of the + rows, making the outer side of each hut eighteen feet high; and the lofts + of these were made warm and comfortable with dry grass mixed with clay, + Here they were continually visited during the winter by Indians from all + the region around. Here, too, they secured the services of an interpreter, + one Chaboneau, who continued with them to the end. This man’s wife, + Sacajawea, whose Indian name was translated “Bird Woman,” had been + captured from the Snake Indians and sold to Chaboneau, who married her. + She was “a good creature, of a mild and gentle disposition, greatly + attached to the whites.” In the expedition she proved herself more + valuable to the explorers than her husband, and Lewis and Clark always + speak of her in terms of respect and admiration. + </p> + <p> + It should not be understood that all the interpreters employed by white + men on such expeditions wholly knew the spoken language of the tribes + among whom they travelled. To some extent they relied upon the universal + language of signs to make themselves understood, and this method of + talking is known to all sorts and kinds of Indians. Thus, two fingers of + the right hand placed astraddle the wrist of the left hand signifies a man + on horseback; and the number of men on horseback is quickly added by + holding up the requisite number of fingers. Sleep is described by gently + inclining the head on the hand, and the number of “sleeps,” or nights, is + indicated by the fingers. Killed, or dead, is described by closed eyes and + a sudden fall of the head on the talker’s chest; and so on, an easily + understood gesture, with a few Indian words, being sufficient to tell a + long story very clearly. + </p> + <p> + Lewis and Clark discovered here a species of ermine before unknown to + science. They called it “a weasel, perfectly white except at the extremity + of the tail, which was black.” This animal, highly prized on account of + its pretty fur, was not scientifically described until as late as 1829. It + is a species of stoat. + </p> + <p> + The wars of some of the Indian tribes gave Lewis and Clark much trouble + and uneasiness. The Sioux were at war with the Minnetarees (Gros Ventres, + or Big Bellies); and the Assiniboins, who lived further to the north, + continually harassed the Sioux and the Mandans, treating these as the + latter did the Rickarees. The white chiefs had their hands full all winter + while trying to preserve peace among these quarrelsome and thieving + tribes, their favorite game being to steal each other’s horses. The Indian + method of caring for their horses in the cold winter was to let them shift + for themselves during the day, and to take them into their own lodges at + night where they were fed with the juicy, brittle twigs of the cottonwood + tree. With this spare fodder the animals thrive and keep their coats fine + and glossy. + </p> + <p> + Late in November, a collision between the Sioux and the Mandans became + almost certain, in consequence of the Sioux having attacked a small + hunting party of the Mandans, killing one, wounding two, and capturing + nine horses. Captain Clark mustered and armed twenty-four of his men, + crossed over into the Mandan village and offered to lead the Indians + against their enemies. The offer was declined on account of the deep snows + which prevented a march; but the incident made friends for white men, and + the tidings of it had a wholesome effect on the other tribes. + </p> + <p> + “The whole religion of the Mandans,” like that of many other savage + tribes, says the journal, “consists in the belief of one Great Spirit + presiding over their destinies. This Being must be in the nature of a good + genius, since it is associated with the healing art, and ‘great spirit’ is + synonymous with ‘great medicine,’ a name applied to everything which they + do not comprehend. Each individual selects for himself the particular + object of his devotion, which is termed his medicine, and is either some + invisible being, or more commonly some animal, which thenceforward becomes + his protector or his intercessor with the Great Spirit, to propitiate whom + every attention is lavished and every personal consideration is + sacrificed. ‘I was lately owner of seventeen horses,’ said a Mandan to us + one day, ‘but I have offered them all up to my medicine and am now poor.’ + He had in reality taken all his wealth, his horses, into the plain, and, + turning them loose, committed them to the care of his medicine and + abandoned them forever. The horses, less religious, took care of + themselves, and the pious votary travelled home on foot.” + </p> + <p> + To this day, all the Northwest Indians speak of anything that is highly + useful or influential as “great medicine.” + </p> + <p> + One cold December day, a Mandan chief invited the explorers to join them + in a grand buffalo hunt. The journal adds:— + </p> + <p> + “Captain Clark with fifteen men went out and found the Indians engaged in + killing buffalo. The hunters, mounted on horseback and armed with bows and + arrows, encircle the herd and gradually drive them into a plain or an open + place fit for the movements of horse; they then ride in among them, and + singling out a buffalo, a female being preferred, go as close as possible + and wound her with arrows till they think they have given the mortal + stroke; when they pursue another, till the quiver is exhausted. If, which + rarely happens, the wounded buffalo attacks the hunter, he evades his blow + by the agility of his horse, which is trained for the combat with great + dexterity. When they have killed the requisite number they collect their + game, and the squaws and attendants come up from the rear and skin and + dress the animals. Captain Clark killed ten buffalo, of which five only + were brought to the fort; the rest, which could not be conveyed home, + being seized by the Indians, among whom the custom is that whenever a + buffalo is found dead without an arrow or any particular mark, he is the + property of the finder; so that often a hunter secures scarcely any of the + game he kills, if the arrow happens to fall off.” + </p> + <p> + The weather now became excessively cold, the mercury often going + thirty-two degrees below zero. Notwithstanding this, however, the Indians + kept up their outdoor sports, one favorite game of which resembled + billiards. But instead of a table, the players had an open flooring, about + fifty yards long, and the balls were rings of stone, shot along the + flooring by means of sticks like billiard-cues. The white men had their + sports, and they forbade the Indians to visit them on Christmas Day, as + this was one of their “great medicine days.” The American flag was hoisted + on the fort and saluted with a volley of musketry. The men danced among + themselves; their best provisions were brought out and “the day passed,” + says the journal, “in great festivity.” + </p> + <p> + The party also celebrated New Year’s Day by similar festivities. Sixteen + of the men were given leave to go up to the first Mandan village with + their musical instruments, where they delighted the whole tribe with their + dances, one of the French voyageurs being especially applauded when he + danced on his hands with his head downwards. The dancers and musicians + were presented with several buffalo-robes and a large quantity of Indian + corn. The cold grew more intense, and on the tenth of the month the + mercury stood at forty degrees below zero. Some of the men were badly + frost-bitten, and a young Indian, about thirteen years old, who had been + lost in the snows, came into the fort. The journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “His father, who came last night to inquire after him very anxiously, had + sent him in the afternoon to the fort; he was overtaken by the night, and + was obliged to sleep on the snow with no covering except a pair of + antelope-skin moccasins and leggins, and a buffalo-robe. His feet being + frozen, we put them into cold water, and gave him every attention in our + power. About the same time an Indian who had also been missing returned to + the fort. Although his dress was very thin, and he had slept on the snow + without a fire, he had not suffered the slightest inconvenience. We have + indeed observed that these Indians support the rigors of the season in a + way which we had hitherto thought impossible. A more pleasing reflection + occurred at seeing the warm interest which the situation of these two + persons had excited in the village. The boy had been a prisoner, and + adopted from charity; yet the distress of the father proved that he felt + for him the tenderest affection. The man was a person of no distinction, + yet the whole village was full of anxiety for his safety; and, when they + came to us, borrowed a sleigh to bring them home with ease if they had + survived, or to carry their bodies if they had perished. . . . + </p> + <p> + “January 13. Nearly one half of the Mandan nation passed down the river to + hunt for several days. In these excursions, men, women, and children, with + their dogs, all leave the village together, and, after discovering a spot + convenient for the game, fix their tents; all the family bear their part + in the labor, and the game is equally divided among the families of the + tribe. When a single hunter returns from the chase with more than is + necessary for his own immediate consumption, the neighbors are entitled by + custom to a share of it: they do not, however, ask for it, but send a + squaw, who, without saying anything, sits down by the door of the lodge + till the master understands the hint, and gives her gratuitously a part + for her family.” + </p> + <p> + By the end of January, 1805, the weather had so far moderated that the + explorers thought they might cut their boats from the ice in the river and + prepare to resume their voyage; but the ice being three feet thick, they + made no progress and were obliged to give up the attempt. Their stock of + meat was low, although they had had good success when the cold was not too + severe to prevent them from hunting deer, elk, and buffalo. The Mandans, + who were careless in providing food for future supplies, also suffered for + want of meat, sometimes going for days without flesh food. Captain Clark + and eighteen men went down the river in search of game. The hunters, after + being out nine days, returned and reported that they had killed forty + deer, three buffalo, and sixteen elk. But much of the game was lean and + poor, and the wolves, who devour everything left out at night, had stolen + a quantity of the flesh. Four men, with sleds, were sent out to bring into + camp the meat, which had been secured against wolves by being stored in + pens. These men were attacked by Sioux, about one hundred in number, who + robbed them of their game and two of their three horses. Captain Lewis, + with twenty-four men, accompanied by some of the Mandans, set out in + pursuit of the marauders. They were unsuccessful, however, but, having + found a part of their game untouched, they brought it back, and this, with + other game killed after their chase of the Sioux, gave them three thousand + pounds of meat; they had killed thirty-six deer, fourteen elk, and one + wolf. + </p> + <p> + By the latter part of February, the party were able to get their boats + from the ice. These were dragged ashore, and the work of making them ready + for their next voyage was begun. As the ice in the river began to break + up, the Mandans had great sport chasing across the floating cakes of ice + the buffalo who were tempted over by the appearance of green, growing + grass on the other side. The Indians were very expert in their pursuit of + the animals, which finally slipped from their insecure footing on the + drifting ice, and were killed. + </p> + <p> + At this point, April 7, 1805, the escorting party, the voyageurs, and one + interpreter, returned down the river in their barge. This party consisted + of thirteen persons, all told, and to them were intrusted several packages + of specimens for President Jefferson, with letters and official reports. + The presents for Mr. Jefferson, according to the journal, “consisted of a + stuffed male and female antelope, with their skeletons, a weasel, three + squirrels from the Rocky Mountains, the skeleton of a prairie wolf, those + of a white and gray hare, a male and female blaireau, (badger) or + burrowing dog of the prairie, with a skeleton of the female, two burrowing + squirrels, a white weasel, and the skin of the louservia (loup-servier, or + lynx), the horns of a mountain ram, or big-horn, a pair of large elk + horns, the horns and tail of a black-tailed deer, and a variety of skins, + such as those of the red fox, white hare, marten, yellow bear, obtained + from the Sioux; also a number of articles of Indian dress, among which was + a buffalo robe representing a battle fought about eight years since + between the Sioux and Ricaras against the Mandans and Minnetarees, in + which the combatants are represented on horseback. . . . Such sketches, + rude and imperfect as they are, delineate the predominant character of the + savage nations. If they are peaceable and inoffensive, the drawings + usually consist of local scenery and their favorite diversions. If the + band are rude and ferocious, we observe tomahawks, scalping-knives, bows + and arrows, and all the engines of destruction.—A Mandan bow, and + quiver of arrows; also some Ricara tobacco-seed, and an ear of Mandan + corn: to these were added a box of plants, another of insects, and three + cases containing a burrowing squirrel, a prairie hen, and four magpies, + all alive.” . . . + </p> + <p> + The articles reached Mr. Jefferson safely and were long on view at his + Virginia residence, Monticello. They were subsequently dispersed, and some + found their way to Peale’s Museum, Philadelphia. Dr. Cones, the zealous + editor of the latest and fullest edition of Lewis and Clark’s narrative, + says that some of the specimens of natural history were probably extant in + 1893. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0007" id="link2HCH0007"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter VII — From Fort Mandan to the Yellowstone + </h2> + <p> + Up to this time, the expedition had passed through regions from which + vague reports had been brought by the few white men who, as hunters and + trappers in pursuit of fur-bearing game, had dared to venture into these + trackless wildernesses. Now they were to launch out into the mysterious + unknown, from which absolutely no tidings had ever been brought by white + men. The dim reports of Indians who had hunted through some parts of the + region were unreliable, and, as they afterwards proved, were often as + absurdly false as if they had been fairy tales. + </p> + <p> + Here, too, they parted from some of their comrades who were to return to + “the United States,” as the explorers fondly termed their native country, + although the strange lands through which they were voyaging were now a + part of the American Republic. The despatches sent to Washington by these + men contained the first official report from Lewis and Clark since their + departure from St. Louis, May 16, 1803; and they were the last word from + the explorers until their return in September, 1806. During all that long + interval, the adventurers were not heard of in the States. No wonder that + croakers declared that the little party had been cut off to perish + miserably in the pathless woods that cover the heart of the continent. + </p> + <p> + But they set out on the long journey with light hearts. In his journal, + whose spelling and punctuation are not always models for the faithful + imitation of school-boys, Captain Lewis set down this observation:— + </p> + <p> + “Our vessels consisted of six small canoes, and two large perogues. This + little fleet altho’ not quite so respectable as those of Columbus or Capt. + Cook, were still viewed by us with as much pleasure as those deservedly + famed adventurers ever beheld theirs; and I dare say with quite as much + anxiety for their safety and preservation. We were now about to penetrate + a country at least two thousand miles in width, on which the foot of + civilized man had never trodden; the good or evil it had in store for us + was for experiment yet to determine, and these little vessels contained + every article by which we were to expect to subsist or defend ourselves. + However as the state of mind in which we are, generally gives the + colouring to events, when the imagination is suffered to wander into + futurity, the picture which now presented itself to me was a most pleasing + one. Entertaining as I do the most confident hope of succeeding in a + voyage which had formed a darling project of mine for the last ten years, + I could but esteem this moment of our departure as among the most happy of + my life.” + </p> + <p> + The barge sent down the river to St. Louis was in command of Corporal + Wharfington; and with him were six private soldiers, two French voyageurs, + Joseph Gravelines (pilot and interpreter), and Brave Raven, a Ricara (or + Arikara) chief who was to be escorted to Washington to visit the + President. The party was also intrusted with sundry gifts for the + President, among them being natural history specimens, living and dead, + and a number of Indian articles which would be objects of curiosity in + Washington. + </p> + <p> + The long voyage of the main party began on the 8th of April, 1805, early + passing the mouth of the Big Knife River, one of the five considerable + streams that fall into the Missouri from the westward in this region; the + other streams are the Owl, the Grand, the Cannonball, and the Heart. The + large town of Stanton, Mercer County, North Dakota, is now situated at the + mouth of the Big Knife. The passage of the party up the river was slow, + owing to unfavorable winds; and they observed along the banks many signs + of early convulsions of nature. The earth of the bluffs was streaked with + layers of coal, or carbonized wood, and large quantities of lava and + pumice-stone were strewn around, showing traces of ancient volcanic + action. The journal of April 9 says:— + </p> + <p> + “A great number of brants (snow-geese) pass up the river; some of them are + perfectly white, except the large feathers of the first joint of the wing, + which are black, though in every other characteristic they resemble common + gray brant. We also saw but could not procure an animal (gopher) that + burrows in the ground, and is similar in every respect to the + burrowing-squirrel, except that it is only one-third of its size. This may + be the animal whose works we have often seen in the plains and prairies; + they resemble the labors of the salamander in the sand-hills of South + Carolina and Georgia, and like him the animals rarely come above ground; + they consist of a little hillock of ten or twelve pounds of loose ground, + which would seem to have been reversed from a pot, though no aperture is + seen through which it could have been thrown. On removing gently the + earth, you discover that the soil has been broken in a circle of about an + inch and a half diameter, where the ground is looser, though still no + opening is perceptible. When we stopped for dinner the squaw (Sacajawea) + went out, and after penetrating with a sharp stick the holes of the mice + (gophers), near some drift-wood, brought to us a quantity of wild + artichokes, which the mice collect and hoard in large numbers. The root is + white, of an ovate form, from one to three inches long, and generally of + the size of a man’s finger, and two, four, and sometimes six roots are + attached to a single stalk. Its flavor as well as the stalk which issues + from it resemble those of the Jerusalem artichoke, except that the latter + is much larger.” + </p> + <p> + The weather rapidly grew so warm, although this was early in April, that + the men worked half-naked during the day; and they were very much annoyed + by clouds of mosquitoes. They found that the hillsides and even the banks + of the rivers and sand-bars were covered with “a white substance, which + appears in considerable quantities on the surface of the earth, and tastes + like a mixture of common salt with Glauber’s salts.” “Many of the + streams,” the journal adds, “are so strongly impregnated with this + substance that the water has an unpleasant taste and a purgative effect.” + This is nothing more than the so-called alkali which has since become + known all over the farthest West. It abounds in the regions west of Salt + Lake Valley, whitening vast areas like snow and poisoning the waters so + that the traveller often sees the margins of the brown pools lined with + skeletons and bodies of small animals whose thirst had led them to drink + the deadly fluid. Men and animals stiffer from smaller doses of this + stuff, which is largely a sulphate of soda, and even in small quantities + is harmful to the system. + </p> + <p> + Here, on the twelfth of April, they were able to determine the exact + course of the Little Missouri, a stream about which almost nothing was + then known. Near here, too, they found the source of the Mouse River, only + a few miles from the Missouri. The river, bending to the north and then + making many eccentric curves, finally empties into Lake Winnipeg, and so + passes into the great chain of northern lakes in British America. At this + point the explorers saw great flocks of the wild Canada goose. The journal + says:— + </p> + <p> + “These geese, we observe, do not build their nests on the ground or in the + sand-bars, but in the tops of the lofty cottonwood trees. We saw some elk + and buffalo to-day, but at too great a distance to obtain any of them, + though a number of the carcasses of the latter animal are strewed along + the shore, having fallen through the ice and been swept along when the + river broke up. More bald eagles are seen on this part of the Missouri + than we have previously met with; the small sparrow-hawk, common in most + parts of the United States, is also found here. Great quantities of geese + are feeding on the prairies, and one flock of white brant, or geese with + black-tipped wings, and some gray brant with them, pass up the river; from + their flight they seem to proceed much further to the northwest. We killed + two antelopes, which were very lean, and caught last night two beavers.” + </p> + <p> + Lewis and Clark were laughed at by some very knowing people who scouted + the idea that wild geese build their nests in trees. But later travellers + have confirmed their story; the wise geese avoid foxes and other of their + four-footed enemies by fixing their homes in the tall cottonwoods. In + other words, they roost high. + </p> + <p> + The Assiniboins from the north had lately been on their spring hunting + expeditions through this region,—just above the Little Missouri,—and + game was scarce and shy. The journal, under the date of April 14, says:— + </p> + <p> + “One of the hunters shot at an otter last evening; a buffalo was killed, + and an elk, both so poor as to be almost unfit for use; two white + (grizzly) bears were also seen, and a muskrat swimming across the river. + The river continues wide and of about the same rapidity as the ordinary + current of the Ohio. The low grounds are wide, the moister parts + containing timber; the upland is extremely broken, without wood, and in + some places seems as if it had slipped down in masses of several acres in + surface. The mineral appearance of salts, coal, and sulphur, with the + burnt hill and pumice-stone, continue, and a bituminous water about the + color of strong lye, with the taste of Glauber’s salts and a slight + tincture of alum. Many geese were feeding in the prairies, and a number of + magpies, which build their nests much like those of the blackbird, in + trees, and composed of small sticks, leaves, and grass, open at the top; + the egg is of a bluish-brown color, freckled with reddish-brown spots. We + also killed a large hooting-owl resembling that of the United States + except that it was more booted and clad with feathers. On the hills are + many aromatic herbs, resembling in taste, smell, and appearance the sage, + hyssop, wormwood, southernwood, juniper, and dwarf cedar; a plant also + about two or three feet high, similar to the camphor in smell and taste; + and another plant of the same size, with a long, narrow, smooth, soft + leaf, of an agreeable smell and flavor, which is a favorite food of the + antelope, whose necks are often perfumed by rubbing against it.” + </p> + <p> + What the journalist intended to say here was that at least one of the + aromatic herbs resembled sage, hyssop, wormwood, and southernwood, and + that there were junipers and dwarf cedars. The pungent-smelling herb was + the wild sage, now celebrated in stories of adventure as the sage-brush. + It grows abundantly in the alkali country, and is browsed upon by a + species of grouse known as the sage-hen. Junipers and dwarf cedars also + grow on the hills of the alkali and sage-brush country. The sage belongs + to the Artemisia family of plants. + </p> + <p> + Four days later, the journal had this interesting entry: + </p> + <p> + “The country to-day presented the usual variety of highlands interspersed + with rich plains. In one of these we observed a species of pea bearing a + yellow flower, which is now in blossom, the leaf and stalk resembling the + common pea. It seldom rises higher than six inches, and the root is + perennial. On the rose-bushes we also saw a quantity of the hair of a + buffalo, which had become perfectly white by exposure and resembled the + wool of the sheep, except that it was much finer and more soft and silky. + A buffalo which we killed yesterday had shed his long hair, and that which + remained was about two inches long, thick, fine, and would have furnished + five pounds of wool, of which we have no doubt an excellent cloth may be + made. Our game to-day was a beaver, a deer, an elk, and some geese. . . . + </p> + <p> + “On the hills we observed considerable quantities of dwarf juniper, which + seldom grows higher than three feet. We killed in the course of the day an + elk, three geese, and a beaver. The beaver on this part of the Missouri + are in greater quantities, larger and fatter, and their fur is more + abundant and of a darker color, than any we have hitherto seen. Their + favorite food seems to be the bark of the cottonwood and willow, as we + have seen no other species of tree that has been touched by them, and + these they gnaw to the ground through a diameter of twenty inches.” + </p> + <p> + And on the twenty-first of April the journal says: + </p> + <p> + “Last night there was a hard white frost, and this morning the weather was + cold, but clear and pleasant; in the course of the day, however, it became + cloudy and the wind rose. The country is of the same description as within + the few last days. We saw immense quantities of buffalo, elk, deer, + antelopes, geese, and some swans and ducks, out of which we procured three + deer and four buffalo calves, which last are equal in flavor to the most + delicious veal; also two beaver and an otter.” + </p> + <p> + As the party advanced to the westward, following the crooked course of the + Missouri, they were very much afflicted with inflamed eyes, occasioned by + the fine, alkaline dust that blew so lightly that it sometimes floated for + miles, like clouds of smoke. The dust even penetrated the works of one of + their watches, although it was protected by tight, double cases. In these + later days, even the double windows of the railway trains do not keep out + this penetrating dust, which makes one’s skin dry and rough. + </p> + <p> + On the twenty-fifth of April, the explorers believed, by the signs which + they observed, that they must be near the great unknown river of which + they had dimly heard as rising in the rocky passes of the Great Divide and + emptying into the Missouri. Captain Lewis accordingly left the party, with + four men, and struck off across the country in search of the stream. Under + the next day’s date the journal reports the return of Captain Lewis and + says:— + </p> + <p> + “On leaving us yesterday he pursued his route along the foot of the hills, + which he descended to the distance of eight miles; from these the wide + plains watered by the Missouri and the Yellowstone spread themselves + before the eye, occasionally varied with the wood of the banks, enlivened + by the irregular windings of the two rivers, and animated by vast herds of + buffalo, deer, elk, and antelope. The confluence of the two rivers was + concealed by the wood, but the Yellowstone itself was only two miles + distant, to the south. He therefore descended the hills and camped on the + bank of the river, having killed, as he crossed the plain, four buffaloes; + the deer alone are shy and retire to the woods, but the elk, antelope, and + buffalo suffered him to approach them without alarm, and often followed + him quietly for some distance.” + </p> + <p> + The famous water-course, first described by Lewis and Clark, was named by + them the Yellow Stone River. Earlier than this, however, the French + voyageurs had called the Upper Missouri the Riviere Jaune, or Yellow + River; but it is certain that the stream, which rises in the Yellowstone + National Park, was discovered and named by Lewis and Clark. One of the + party, Private Joseph Fields, was the first white man who ever ascended + the Yellowstone for any considerable distance. Sent up the river by + Captains Lewis and Clark, he travelled about eight miles, and observed the + currents and sand-bars. Leaving the mouth of the river, the party went on + their course along the Missouri. The journal, under date of April 27, + says:— + </p> + <p> + “From the point of junction a wood occupies the space between the two + rivers, which at the distance of a mile come within two hundred and fifty + yards of each other. There a beautiful low plain commences, widening as + the rivers recede, and extends along each of them for several miles, + rising about half a mile from the Missouri into a plain twelve feet higher + than itself. The low plain is a few inches above high water mark, and + where it joins the higher plain there is a channel of sixty or seventy + yards in width, through which a part of the Missouri, when at its greatest + height, passes into the Yellowstone. . . . + </p> + <p> + “The northwest wind rose so high at eleven o’clock that we were obliged to + stop till about four in the afternoon, when we proceeded till dusk. On the + south a beautiful plain separates the two rivers, till at about six miles + there is a piece of low timbered ground, and a little above it bluffs, + where the country rises gradually from the river: the situations on the + north are more high and open. We encamped on that side, the wind, the sand + which it raised, and the rapidity of the current having prevented our + advancing more than eight miles; during the latter part of the day the + river became wider, and crowded with sand-bars. The game was in such + plenty that we killed only what was necessary for our subsistence. For + several days past we have seen great numbers of buffalo lying dead along + the shore, some of them partly devoured by the wolves. They have either + sunk through the ice during the winter, or been drowned in attempting to + cross; or else, after crossing to some high bluff, have found themselves + too much exhausted either to ascend or swim back again, and perished for + want of food: in this situation we found several small parties of them. + There are geese, too, in abundance, and more bald eagles than we have + hitherto observed; the nests of these last being always accompanied by + those of two or three magpies, who are their inseparable attendants.” + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0008" id="link2HCH0008"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter VIII — In the Haunts of Grizzlies and Buffalo + </h2> + <p> + Game, which had been somewhat scarce after leaving the Yellowstone, became + more plentiful as they passed on to the westward, still following the + winding course of the Missouri. Much of the time, baffling winds and the + crookedness of the stream made sailing impossible, and the boats were + towed by men walking along the banks. + </p> + <p> + Even this was sometimes difficult, on account of the rocky ledges that + beset the shores, and sharp stones that lay in the path of the towing + parties. On the twenty-eighth of April, however, having a favorable wind, + the party made twenty-eight miles with their sails, which was reckoned a + good day’s journey. On that day the journal records that game had again + become very abundant, deer of various kinds, elk, buffalo, antelope, bear, + beaver, and geese being numerous. The beaver, it was found, had wrought + much damage by gnawing down trees; some of these, not less than three feet + in diameter had been gnawed clean through by the beaver. On the following + day the journal has this record:— + </p> + <p> + “We proceeded early, with a moderate wind. Captain Lewis, who was on shore + with one hunter, met, about eight o’clock, two white (grizzly) bears. Of + the strength and ferocity of this animal the Indians had given us dreadful + accounts. They never attack him but in parties of six or eight persons, + and even then are often defeated with a loss of one or more of their + party. Having no weapons but bows and arrows, and the bad guns with which + the traders supply them, they are obliged to approach very near to the + bear; as no wound except through the head or heart is mortal, they + frequently fall a sacrifice if they miss their aim. He rather attacks than + avoids a man, and such is the terror which he has inspired, that the + Indians who go in quest of him paint themselves and perform all the + superstitious rites customary when they make war on a neighboring nation. + Hitherto, those bears we had seen did not appear desirous of encountering + us; but although to a skilful rifleman the danger is very much diminished, + yet the white bear is still a terrible animal. On approaching these two, + both Captain Lewis and the hunter fired, and each wounded a bear. One of + them made his escape; the other turned upon Captain Lewis and pursued him + seventy or eighty yards, but being badly wounded the bear could not run so + fast as to prevent him from reloading his piece, which he again aimed at + him, and a third shot from the hunter brought him to the ground. He was a + male, not quite full grown, and weighed about three hundred pounds. The + legs are somewhat longer than those of the black bear, and the talons and + tusks much larger and longer. Its color is a yellowish-brown; the eyes are + small, black, and piercing; the front of the fore legs near the feet is + usually black, and the fur is finer, thicker, and deeper than that of the + black bear. Add to which, it is a more furious animal, and very remarkable + for the wounds which it will bear without dying.” + </p> + <p> + Next day, the hunter killed the largest elk which they had ever seen. It + stood five feet three inches high from hoof to shoulder. Antelopes were + also numerous, but lean, and not very good for food. Of the antelope the + journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “These fleet and quick-sighted animals are generally the victims of their + curiosity. When they first see the hunters, they run with great velocity; + if he lies down on the ground, and lifts up his arm, his hat, or his foot, + they return with a light trot to look at the object, and sometimes go and + return two or three times, till they approach within reach of the rifle. + So, too, they sometimes leave their flock to go and look at the wolves, + which crouch down, and, if the antelope is frightened at first, repeat the + same manoevre, and sometimes relieve each other, till they decoy it from + the party, when they seize it. But, generally, the wolves take them as + they are crossing the rivers; for, although swift on foot, they are not + good swimmers.” + </p> + <p> + Later wayfarers across the plains were wont to beguile the antelope by + fastening a bright-colored handkerchief to a ramrod stuck in the ground. + The patient hunter was certain to be rewarded by the antelope coming + within range of his rifle; for, unless scared off by some interference, + the herd, after galloping around and around and much zigzagging, would + certainly seek to gratify their curiosity by gradually circling nearer and + nearer the strange object until a deadly shot or two sent havoc into their + ranks. + </p> + <p> + May came on cold and windy, and on the second of the month, the journal + records that snow fell to the depth of an inch, contrasting strangely with + the advanced vegetation. + </p> + <p> + “Our game to-day,” proceeds the journal, “were deer, elk, and buffalo: we + also procured three beaver. They were here quite gentle, as they have not + been hunted; but when the hunters are in pursuit, they never leave their + huts during the day. This animal we esteem a great delicacy, particularly + the tail, which, when boiled, resembles in flavor the fresh tongues and + sounds of the codfish, and is generally so large as to afford a plentiful + meal for two men. One of the hunters, in passing near an old Indian camp, + found several yards of scarlet cloth suspended on the bough of a tree, as + a sacrifice to the deity, by the Assiniboins; the custom of making these + offerings being common among that people, as, indeed, among all the + Indians on the Missouri. The air was sharp this evening; the water froze + on the oars as we rowed.” + </p> + <p> + The Assiniboin custom of sacrificing to their deity, or “great medicine,” + the article which they most value themselves, is not by any means peculiar + to that tribe, nor to the Indian race. + </p> + <p> + An unusual number of porcupines were seen along here, and these creatures + were so free from wildness that they fed on, undisturbed, while the + explorers walked around and among them. The captains named a bold and + beautiful stream, which here entered the Missouri from the north,—Porcupine + River; but modern geography calls the water-course Poplar River; at the + mouth of the river, in Montana, is now the Poplar River Indian Agency and + military post. The waters of this stream, the explorers found, were clear + and transparent,—an exception to all the streams, which, discharging + into the Missouri, give it its name of the Big Muddy. The journal adds:— + </p> + <p> + “A quarter of a mile beyond this river a creek falls in on the south, to + which, on account of its distance from the mouth of the Missouri, we gave + the name of Two-thousand-mile creek. It is a bold stream with a bed thirty + yards wide. At three and one-half miles above Porcupine River, we reached + some high timber on the north, and camped just above an old channel of the + river, which is now dry. We saw vast quantities of buffalo, elk, deer,—principally + of the long-tailed kind,—antelope, beaver, geese, ducks, brant, and + some swan. The porcupines too are numerous, and so careless and clumsy + that we can approach very near without disturbing them, as they are + feeding on the young willows. Toward evening we also found for the first + time the nest of a goose among some driftwood, all that we had hitherto + seen being on the top of a broken tree on the forks, invariably from + fifteen to twenty or more feet in height.” + </p> + <p> + “Next day,” May 4, says the journal, “we passed some old Indian + hunting-camps, one of which consisted of two large lodges, fortified with + a circular fence twenty or thirty feet in diameter, made of timber laid + horizontally, the beams overlying each other to the height of five feet, + and covered with the trunks and limbs of trees that have drifted down the + river. The lodges themselves are formed by three or more strong sticks + about the size of a man’s leg or arm and twelve feet long, which are + attached at the top by a withe of small willows, and spread out so as to + form at the base a circle of ten to fourteen feet in diameter. Against + these are placed pieces of driftwood and fallen timber, usually in three + ranges, one on the other; the interstices are covered with leaves, bark, + and straw, so as to form a conical figure about ten feet high, with a + small aperture in one side for the door. It is, however, at best a very + imperfect shelter against the inclemencies of the seasons.” + </p> + <p> + Wolves were very abundant along the route of the explorers, the most + numerous species being the common kind, now known as the coyote + (pronounced kyote), and named by science the canis latrans. These animals + are cowardly and sly creatures, of an intermediate size between the fox + and dog, very delicately formed, fleet and active. + </p> + <p> + “The ears are large, erect, and pointed; the head is long and pointed, + like that of the fox; the tail long and bushy; the hair and fur are of a + pale reddish-brown color, though much coarser than that of the fox; the + eye is of a deep sea-green color, small and piercing; the talons are + rather longer than those of the wolf of the Atlantic States, which animal, + as far as we can perceive, is not to be found on this side of the Platte. + These wolves usually associate in bands of ten or twelve, and are rarely, + if ever, seen alone, not being able, singly, to attack a deer or antelope. + They live and rear their young in burrows, which they fix near some pass + or spot much frequented by game, and sally out in a body against any + animal which they think they can overpower; but on the slightest alarm + retreat to their burrows, making a noise exactly like that of a small dog. + </p> + <p> + “A second species is lower, shorter in the legs, and thicker than the + Atlantic wolf; the color, which is not affected by the seasons, is of + every variety of shade, from a gray or blackish-brown to a cream-colored + white. They do not burrow, nor do they bark, but howl; they frequent the + woods and plains, and skulk along the skirts of the buffalo herds, in + order to attack the weary or wounded.” + </p> + <p> + Under date of May 5, the journal has an interesting story of an encounter + with a grizzly bear, which, by way of variety, is here called “brown,” + instead of “white.” It is noticeable that the explorers dwelt with much + minuteness upon the peculiar characteristics of the grizzly; this is + natural enough when we consider that they were the first white men to form + an intimate acquaintance with “Ursus horribilis.” The account says:— + </p> + <p> + “Captain Clark and one of the hunters met, this evening, the largest brown + bear we have seen. As they fired he did not attempt to attack, but fled + with a most tremendous roar; and such was his extraordinary tenacity of + life, that, although he had five balls passed through his lungs, and five + other wounds, he swam more than half across the river to a sand-bar, and + survived twenty minutes. He weighed between five and six hundred pounds at + least, and measured eight feet seven inches and a half from the nose to + the extremity of the hind feet, five feet ten inches and a half round the + breast, three feet eleven inches round the neck, one foot eleven inches + round the middle of the fore leg, and his claws five on each foot, were + four inches and three-eighths in length. This animal differs from the + common black bear in having his claws much longer and more blunt; his tail + shorter; his hair of a reddish or bay brown, longer, finer, and more + abundant; his liver, lungs, and heart much larger even in proportion to + his size, the heart, particularly, being equal to that of a large ox; and + his maw ten times larger. Besides fish and flesh, he feeds on roots and + every kind of wild fruit.” + </p> + <p> + On May 8 the party discovered the largest and most important of the + northern tributaries of the Upper Missouri. The journal thus describes the + stream:— + </p> + <p> + “Its width at the entrance is one hundred and fifty yards; on going three + miles up, Captain Lewis found it to be of the same breadth and sometimes + more; it is deep, gentle, and has a large quantity of water; its bed is + principally of mud; the banks are abrupt, about twelve feet in height, and + formed of a dark, rich loam and blue clay; the low grounds near it are + wide and fertile, and possess a considerable proportion of cottonwood and + willow. It seems to be navigable for boats and canoes; by this + circumstance, joined to its course and quantity of water, which indicates + that it passes through a large extent of country, we are led to presume + that it may approach the Saskaskawan (Saskatchewan) and afford a + communication with that river. The water has a peculiar whiteness, such as + might be produced by a tablespoonful of milk in a dish of tea, and this + circumstance induced us to call it Milk River.” + </p> + <p> + Modern geography shows that the surmise of Captain Lewis was correct. Some + of the tributaries of Milk River (the Indian name of which signifies “The + River that Scolds at all Others”) have their rise near St. Mary’s River, + which is one of the tributaries of the Saskatchewan, in British America. + </p> + <p> + The explorers were surprised to find the bed of a dry river, as deep and + as wide as the Missouri itself, about fifteen miles above Milk River. + Although it had every appearance of a water-course, it did not discharge a + drop of water. Their journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “It passes through a wide valley without timber; the surrounding country + consists of waving low hills, interspersed with some handsome level + plains; the banks are abrupt, and consist of a black or yellow clay, or of + a rich sandy loam; though they do not rise more than six or eight feet + above the bed, they exhibit no appearance of being overflowed; the bed is + entirely composed of a light brown sand, the particles of which, like + those of the Missouri, are extremely fine. Like the dry rivers we passed + before, this seemed to have discharged its waters recently, but the + watermark indicated that its greatest depth had not been more than two + feet. This stream, if it deserve the name, we called Bigdry (Big Dry) + River.” + </p> + <p> + And Big Dry it remains on the maps unto this day. In this region the party + recorded this observation:— + </p> + <p> + “The game is now in great quantities, particularly the elk and buffalo, + which last is so gentle that the men are obliged to drive them out of the + way with sticks and stones. The ravages of the beaver are very apparent; + in one place the timber was entirely prostrated for a space of three acres + in front on the river and one in depth, and great part of it removed, + though the trees were in large quantities, and some of them as thick as + the body of a man.” + </p> + <p> + Yet so great have been the ravages of man among these gentle creatures, + that elk are now very rarely found in the region, and the buffalo have + almost utterly disappeared from the face of the earth. Just after the + opening of the Northern Pacific Railway, in 1883, a band of sixty + buffaloes were heard of, far to the southward of Bismarck, and a party was + organized to hunt them. The <i>bold</i> hunters afterwards boasted that + they killed every one of this little band of survivors of their race. + </p> + <p> + The men were now (in the middle of May) greatly troubled with boils, + abscesses, and inflamed eyes, caused by the poison of the alkali that + covered much of the ground and corrupted the water. Here is an entry in + the journal of May 11:— + </p> + <p> + “About five in the afternoon one of our men (Bratton), who had been + afflicted with boils and suffered to walk on shore, came running to the + boats with loud cries, and every symptom of terror and distress. For some + time after we had taken him on board he was so much out of breath as to be + unable to describe the cause of his anxiety; but he at length told us that + about a mile and a half below he had shot a brown bear, which immediately + turned and was in close pursuit of him; but the bear being badly wounded + could not overtake him. Captain Lewis, with seven men, immediately went in + search of him; having found his track they followed him by the blood for a + mile, found him concealed in some thick brushwood, and shot him with two + balls through the skull. Though somewhat smaller than that killed a few + days ago, he was a monstrous animal, and a most terrible enemy. Our man + had shot him through the centre of the lungs; yet he had pursued him + furiously for half a mile, then returned more than twice that distance, + and with his talons prepared himself a bed in the earth two feet deep and + five feet long; he was perfectly alive when they found him, which was at + least two hours after he had received the wound. The wonderful power of + life which these animals possess renders them dreadful; their very track + in the mud or sand, which we have sometimes found eleven inches long and + seven and one-fourth wide, exclusive of the talons, is alarming; and we + had rather encounter two Indians than meet a single brown bear. There is + no chance of killing them by a single shot unless the ball goes through + the brain, and this is very difficult on account of two large muscles + which cover the side of the forehead and the sharp projection of the + centre of the frontal bone, which is also thick. + </p> + <p> + “Our camp was on the south, at the distance of sixteen miles from that of + last night. The fleece and skin of the bear were a heavy burden for two + men, and the oil amounted to eight gallons.” + </p> + <p> + The name of the badly-scared Bratton was bestowed upon a creek which + discharges into the Missouri near the scene of this encounter. Game + continued to be very abundant. On the fourteenth, according to the + journal, the hunters were hunted, to their great discomfiture. The account + says:— + </p> + <p> + “Toward evening the men in the hindmost canoes discovered a large brown + (grizzly) bear lying in the open grounds, about three hundred paces from + the river. Six of them, all good hunters, immediately went to attack him, + and concealing themselves by a small eminence came unperceived within + forty paces of him. Four of the hunters now fired, and each lodged a ball + in his body, two of them directly through the lungs. The furious animal + sprang up and ran open-mouthed upon them. + </p> + <p> + “As he came near, the two hunters who had reserved their fire gave him two + wounds, one of which, breaking his shoulder, retarded his motion for a + moment; but before they could reload he was so near that they were obliged + to run to the river, and before they had reached it he had almost + overtaken them. Two jumped into the canoe; the other four separated, and, + concealing themselves in the willows, fired as fast as they could reload. + They struck him several times, but, instead of weakening the monster, each + shot seemed only to direct him towards the hunters, till at last he + pursued two of them so closely that they threw aside their guns and + pouches, and jumped down a perpendicular bank of twenty feet into the + river: the bear sprang after them, and was within a few feet of the + hindmost, when one of the hunters on shore shot him in the head, and + finally killed him. They dragged him to the shore, and found that eight + balls had passed through him in different directions. The bear was old, + and the meat tough, so that they took the skin only, and rejoined us at + camp, where we had been as much terrified by an accident of a different + kind. + </p> + <p> + “This was the narrow escape of one of our canoes, containing all our + papers, instruments, medicine, and almost every article indispensable for + the success of our enterprise. The canoe being under sail, a sudden squall + of wind struck her obliquely and turned her considerably. The man at the + helm, who was unluckily the worst steersman of the party, became alarmed, + and, instead of putting her before the wind, luffed her up into it. The + wind was so high that it forced the brace of the square-sail out of the + hand of the man who was attending it, and instantly upset the canoe, which + would have been turned bottom upward but for the resistance made by the + awning. Such was the confusion on board, and the waves ran so high, that + it was half a minute before she righted, and then nearly full of water, + but by bailing her out she was kept from sinking until they rowed ashore. + Besides the loss of the lives of three men, who, not being able to swim, + would probably have perished, we should have been deprived of nearly + everything necessary for our purposes, at a distance of between two and + three thousand miles from any place where we could supply the deficiency.” + </p> + <p> + Fortunately, there was no great loss from this accident, which was caused + by the clumsiness and timidity of the steersman, Chaboneau. Captain + Lewis’s account of the incident records that the conduct of Chaboneau’s + wife, Sacajawea, was better than that of her cowardly husband. He says:— + </p> + <p> + “The Indian woman, to whom I ascribe equal fortitude and resolution with + any person on board at the time of the accident, caught and preserved most + of the light articles which were washed overboard.” + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0009" id="link2HCH0009"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter IX — In the Solitudes of the Upper Missouri + </h2> + <p> + Under date of May 17, the journal of the party has the following + interesting entries:— + </p> + <p> + “We set out early and proceeded on very well; the banks being firm and the + shore bold, we were enabled to use the towline, which, whenever the banks + will permit it, is the safest and most expeditious mode of ascending the + river, except under sail with a steady breeze. At the distance of ten and + one-half miles we came to the mouth of a small creek on the south, below + which the hills approach the river, and continue near it during the day. + Three miles further is a large creek on the north; and again, six and + three-quarters miles beyond this, is another large creek, to the south; + both containing a small quantity of running water, of a brackish taste. + The last we called Rattlesnake Creek, from our seeing that animal near it. + Although no timber can be observed on it from the Missouri, it throws out + large quantities of driftwood, among which were some pieces of coal + brought down by the stream. . . . + </p> + <p> + “The game is in great quantities, but the buffalo are not so numerous as + they were some days ago; two rattlesnakes were seen to-day, and one of + them was killed. It resembles those of the Middle Atlantic States, being + about thirty inches long, of a yellowish brown on the back and sides, + variegated with a row of oval dark brown spots lying transversely on the + back from the neck to the tail, and two other rows of circular spots of + the same color on the sides along the edge of the scuta; there are one + hundred and seventy-six scuta on the belly, and seventeen on the tail.” + </p> + <p> + Two days later, the journal records that one of the party killed a grizzly + bear, “which, though shot through the heart, ran at his usual pace nearly + a quarter of a mile before he fell.” + </p> + <p> + The mouth of the Musselshell River, which was one of the notable points + that marked another stage in the journey, was reached on the twentieth of + May. This stream empties into the Missouri two thousand two hundred and + seventy miles above its mouth, and is still known by the name given it by + its discoverers. The journal says: + </p> + <p> + “It is one hundred and ten yards wide, and contains more water than + streams of that size usually do in this country; its current is by no + means rapid, and there is every appearance of its being susceptible of + navigation by canoes for a considerable distance. Its bed is chiefly + formed of coarse sand and gravel, with an occasional mixture of black mud; + the banks are abrupt and nearly twelve feet high, so that they are secure + from being overflowed; the water is of a greenish-yellow cast, and much + more transparent than that of the Missouri, which itself, though clearer + than below, still retains its whitish hue and a portion of its sediment. + Opposite the point of junction the current of the Missouri is gentle, and + two hundred and twenty-two yards in width; the bed is principally of mud, + the little sand remaining being wholly confined to the points, and the + water is still too deep to use the setting-pole. + </p> + <p> + “If this be, as we suppose, the Musselshell, our Indian information is + that it rises in the first chain of the Rocky mountains not far from the + sources of the Yellowstone, whence in its course to this place it waters a + high broken country, well timbered, particularly on its borders, and + interspersed with handsome fertile plains and meadows. We have reason, + however, to believe, from their giving a similar account of the timber + where we now are, that the timber of which they speak is similar to that + which we have seen for a few days past, which consists of nothing more + than a few straggling small pines and dwarf cedars on the summits of the + hills, nine-tenths of the ground being totally destitute of wood, and + covered with short grass, aromatic herbs, and an immense quantity of + prickly-pear; though the party who explored it for eight miles represented + the low grounds on the river to be well supplied with cottonwood of a + tolerable size, and of an excellent soil. They also report that the + country is broken and irregular, like that near our camp; and that about + five miles up, a handsome river, about fifty yards wide, which we named + after Chaboneau’s wife, Sacajawea’s or the Bird-woman’s River, discharges + into the Musselshell on the north or upper side.” + </p> + <p> + Later explorations have shown that the Musselshell rises in the Little + Belt Mountains, considerably to the north of the sources of the + Yellowstone. Modern geography has also taken from the good Sacajawea the + honor of having her name bestowed on one of the branches of the + Musselshell. The stream once named for her is now known as Crooked Creek: + it joins the river near its mouth, in the central portion of Montana. The + journal, under date of May 22, has this entry:— + </p> + <p> + “The river (the Missouri) continues about two hundred and fifty yards + wide, with fewer sand-bars, and the current more gentle and regular. Game + is no longer in such abundance since leaving the Musselshell. We have + caught very few fish on this side of the Mandans, and these were the white + catfish, of two to five pounds. We killed a deer and a bear. We have not + seen in this quarter the black bear, common in the United States and on + the lower parts of the Missouri, nor have we discerned any of their + tracks. They may easily be distinguished by the shortness of the talons + from the brown, grizzly, or white bear, all of which seem to be of the + same species, which assumes those colors at different seasons of the year. + We halted earlier than usual, and camped on the north, in a point of + woods, at the distance of sixteen and one half miles (thus past the site + of Fort Hawley, on the south).” + </p> + <p> + Notwithstanding the advance of the season, the weather in those great + altitudes grew more and more cold. Under date of May 23, the journal + records the fact that ice appeared along the edges of the river, and water + froze upon their oars. But notwithstanding the coolness of the nights and + mornings, mosquitoes were very troublesome. + </p> + <p> + The explorers judged that the cold was somewhat unusual for that locality, + inasmuch as the cottonwood trees lost their leaves by the frost, showing + that vegetation, generally well suited to the temperature of its country, + or habitat, had been caught by an unusual nip of the frost. The explorers + noticed that the air of those highlands was so pure and clear that objects + appeared to be much nearer than they really were. A man who was sent out + to explore the country attempted to reach a ridge (now known as the Little + Rocky Mountains), apparently about fifteen miles from the river. He + travelled about ten miles, but finding himself not halfway to the object + of his search, he returned without reaching it. + </p> + <p> + The party was now just westward of the site of the present town of + Carroll, Montana, on the Missouri. Their journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “The low grounds are narrow and without timber; the country is high and + broken; a large portion of black rock and brown sandy rock appears in the + face of the hills, the tops of which are covered with scattered pine, + spruce, and dwarf cedar; the soil is generally poor, sandy near the tops + of the hills, and nowhere producing much grass, the low grounds being + covered with little else than the hyssop, or southernwood, and the + pulpy-leaved thorn. Game is more scarce, particularly beaver, of which we + have seen but few for several days, and the abundance or scarcity of which + seems to depend on the greater or less quantity of timber. At twenty-four + and one-half miles we reached a point of woodland on the south, where we + observed that the trees had no leaves, and camped for the night.” + </p> + <p> + The “hyssop, or southernwood,” the reader now knows to be the wild sage, + or sage-brush. The “pulpy-leaved thorn” mentioned in the journal is the + greasewood; and both of these shrubs flourish in the poverty-stricken, + sandy, alkaline soil of the far West and Northwest. The woody fibre of + these furnished the only fuel available for early overland emigrants to + the Pacific. + </p> + <p> + The character of this country now changed considerably as the explorers + turned to the northward, in their crooked course, with the river. On the + twenty-fifth of May the journal records this:— + </p> + <p> + “The country on each side is high, broken, and rocky; the rock being + either a soft brown sandstone, covered with a thin stratum of limestone, + or else a hard, black, rugged granite, both usually in horizontal strata, + and the sand-rock overlaying the other. Salts and quartz, as well as some + coal and pumice-stone, still appear. The bars of the river are composed + principally of gravel; the river low grounds are narrow, and afford + scarcely any timber; nor is there much pine on the hills. The buffalo have + now become scarce; we saw a polecat (skunk) this evening, which was the + first for several days; in the course of the day we also saw several herds + of the bighorned animals among the steep cliffs on the north, and killed + several of them.” + </p> + <p> + The bighorned animals, the first of which were killed here, were sometimes + called “Rocky Mountain sheep.” But sheep they were not, bearing hair and + not wool. As we have said, they are now more commonly known as bighorns. + </p> + <p> + The patience of the explorers was rewarded, on Sunday, May 26, 1806, by + their first view of the Rocky Mountains. Here is the journal’s record on + that date:— + </p> + <p> + “It was here (Cow Creek, Mont.) that, after ascending the highest summit + of the hills on the north side of the river, Captain Lewis first caught a + distant view of the Rock mountains—the object of all our hopes, and + the reward of all our ambition. On both sides of the river, and at no + great distance from it, the mountains followed its course. Above these at + the distance of fifty miles from us, an irregular range of mountains + spread from west to northwest from his position. To the north of these, a + few elevated points, the most remarkable of which bore N. 65'0 W., + appeared above the horizon; and as the sun shone on the snows of their + summits, he obtained a clear and satisfactory view of those mountains + which close on the Missouri the passage to the Pacific.” + </p> + <p> + As they continued to ascend the Missouri they found themselves confronted + by many considerable rapids which sometimes delayed their progress. They + also set forth this observation: “The only animals we have observed are + the elk, the bighorn, and the hare common to this country.” Wayfarers + across the plains now call this hare the jack-rabbit. The river soon + became very rapid with a marked descent, indicating their nearness to its + mountain sources. The journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “Its general width is about two hundred yards; the shoals are more + frequent, and the rocky points at the mouths of the gullies more + troublesome to pass. Great quantities of stone lie in the river and on its + bank, and seem to have fallen down as the rain washed away the clay and + sand in which they were imbedded. The water is bordered by high, rugged + bluffs, composed of irregular but horizontal strata of yellow and brown or + black clay, brown and yellowish-white sand, soft yellowish-white + sandstone, and hard dark brown freestone; also, large round kidney-formed + irregular separate masses of a hard black ironstone, imbedded in the clay + and sand; some coal or carbonated wood also makes its appearance in the + cliffs, as do its usual attendants, the pumice-stone and burnt earth. The + salts and quartz are less abundant, and, generally speaking, the country + is, if possible, more rugged and barren than that we passed yesterday; the + only growth of the hills being a few pine, spruce, and dwarf cedar, + interspersed with an occasional contrast, once in the course of some + miles, of several acres of level ground, which supply a scanty subsistence + for a few little cottonwoods.” + </p> + <p> + But, a few days later, the party passed out of this inhospitable region, + and, after passing a stream which they named Thompson’s (now Birch) Creek, + after one of their men, they were glad to make this entry in their diary: + </p> + <p> + “Here the country assumed a totally different aspect: the hills retired on + both sides from the river, which spreads to more than three times its + former size, and is filled with a number of small handsome islands covered + with cottonwood. The low grounds on its banks are again wide, fertile, and + enriched with trees: those on the north are particularly wide, the hills + being comparatively low, and opening into three large valleys, which + extend themselves for a considerable distance towards the north. These + appearances of vegetation are delightful after the dreary hills among + which we have passed; and we have now to congratulate ourselves at having + escaped from the last ridges of the Black Mountains. On leaving Thompson’s + Creek we passed two small islands, and at twenty-three miles’ distance + encamped among some timber; on the north, opposite to a small creek, which + we named Bull Creek. The bighorn are in great quantities, and must bring + forth their young at a very early season, as they are now half grown. One + of the party saw a large bear also; but, being at a distance from the + river, and having no timber to conceal him, he would not venture to fire.” + </p> + <p> + A curious adventure happened on the twenty-eighth, of which the journal, + next day, makes this mention:— + </p> + <p> + “Last night we were alarmed by a new sort of enemy. A buffalo swam over + from the opposite side, and to the spot where lay one of our canoes, over + which he clambered to the shore: then, taking fright, he ran full speed up + the bank towards our fires, and passed within eighteen inches of the heads + of some of the men before the sentinel could make him change his course. + Still more alarmed, he ran down between four fires, and within a few + inches of the heads of a second row of the men, and would have broken into + our lodge if the barking of the dog had not stopped him. He suddenly + turned to the right, and was out of sight in a moment, leaving us all in + confusion, every one seizing his rifle and inquiring the cause of the + alarm. On learning what had happened, we had to rejoice at suffering no + more injury than some damage to the guns that were in the canoe which the + buffalo crossed. . . . + </p> + <p> + “We passed an island and two sand-bars, and at the distance of two and a + half miles came to a handsome river, which discharges itself on the South, + and which we ascended to the distance of a mile and a half: we called it + Judith’s River. It rises in the Rocky Mountains, in about the same place + with the Musselshell, and near the Yellowstone River. Its entrance is one + hundred yards wide from one bank to the other, the water occupying about + seventy-five yards, and being in greater quantity than that of the + Musselshell River. . . . There were great numbers of the argalea, or + bighorned animals, in the high country through which it passes, and of + beaver in its waters. Just above the entrance of it we saw the ashes of + the fires of one hundred and twenty-six lodges, which appeared to have + been deserted about twelve or fifteen days.” + </p> + <p> + Leaving Judith’s River, named for a sweet Virginia lass, the explorers + sailed, or were towed, seventeen miles up the river, where they camped at + the mouth of a bold, running river to which they gave the name of + Slaughter River. The stream is now known as the Arrow; the appropriateness + of the title conferred on the stream by Lewis and Clark appears from the + story which they tell of their experience just below “Slaughter River,” as + follows: + </p> + <p> + “On the north we passed a precipice about one hundred and twenty feet + high, under which lay scattered the fragments of at least one hundred + carcasses of buffaloes, although the water which had washed away the lower + part of the hill must have carried off many of the dead. These buffaloes + had been chased down the precipice in a way very common on the Missouri, + by which vast herds are destroyed in a moment. The mode of hunting is to + select one of the most active and fleet young men, who is disguised by a + buffalo-skin round his body; the skin of the head with the ears and horns + being fastened on his own head in such a way as to deceive the buffalo. + Thus dressed, he fixes himself at a convenient distance between a herd of + buffalo and any of the river precipices, which sometimes extend for some + miles. His companions in the mean time get in the rear and side of the + herd, and at a given signal show themselves and advance toward the + buffaloes. These instantly take the alarm, and finding the hunters beside + them, they run toward the disguised Indian or decoy, who leads them on at + full speed toward the river; when, suddenly securing himself in some + crevice of the cliff which he had previously fixed on, the herd is left on + the brink of the precipice. It is then in vain for the foremost buffaloes + to retreat or even to stop; they are pressed on by the hindmost rank, + which, seeing no danger but from the hunters, goad on those before them + till the whole are precipitated, and the shore is strewn with their dead + bodies. Sometimes, in this perilous seduction, the Indian is himself + either trodden under foot by the rapid movements of the buffaloes, or + missing his footing in the cliff is urged down the precipice by the + falling herd. The Indians then select as much meat as they wish; the rest + is abandoned to the wolves, and creates a most dreadful stench. The wolves + which had been feasting on these carcasses were very fat, and so gentle + that one of them was killed with an espontoon.” (1) + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + (1) A short spear. +</pre> + <p> + The dryness and purity of the air roused the admiration of the explorers, + who noticed that the woodwork of the cases of their instruments shrank, + and the joints opened, although the wood was old and perfectly seasoned. A + tablespoonful of water, exposed to the air in an open saucer, would wholly + evaporate in thirty-six hours, when the thermometer did not mark higher + than the “Temperate” point at the warmest hour of the day. Contrary to + their expectations, they had not yet met with any Indians, although they + saw many signs of their having recently been in that vicinity. The journal + says: + </p> + <p> + “In the course of the day (May 30) we passed several encampments of + Indians, the most recent of which seemed to have been evacuated about five + weeks since; and, from the several apparent dates, we supposed that they + were formed by a band of about one hundred lodges, who were travelling + slowly up the river. Although no part of the Missouri from the Minnetarees + to this place exhibits signs of permanent settlements, yet none seem + exempt from the transient visits of hunting-parties. We know that the + Minnetarees of the Missouri extend their excursions on the south side of + the river as high as the Yellowstone, and the Assiniboins visit the + northern side, most probably as high as Porcupine River. All the lodges + between that place and the Rocky Mountains we supposed to belong to the + Minnetarees of Fort de Prairie, who live on the south fork of the + Saskashawan.” + </p> + <p> + The party now entered upon some of the natural wonders of the West, which + have since become famous. Their journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “These hills and river-cliffs exhibit a most extraordinary and romantic + appearance. They rise in most places nearly perpendicular from the water, + to the height of between two hundred and three hundred feet, and are + formed of very white sandstone, so soft as to yield readily to the + impression of water, in the upper part of which lie imbedded two or three + thin horizontal strata of white freestone, insensible to the rain; on the + top is a dark rich loam, which forms a gradually ascending plain, from a + mile to a mile and a half in extent, when the hills again rise abruptly to + the height of about three hundred feet more. In trickling down the cliffs, + the water has worn the soft sandstone into a thousand grotesque figures, + among which, with a little fancy, may be discerned elegant ranges of + freestone buildings, with columns variously sculptured, and supporting + long and elegant galleries, while the parapets are adorned with statuary. + On a nearer approach they represent every form of elegant ruins—columns, + some with pedestals and capitals entire, others mutilated and prostrate, + and some rising pyramidally over each other till they terminate in a sharp + point. These are varied by niches, alcoves, and the customary appearances + of desolated magnificence. The illusion is increased by the number of + martins, which have built their globular nests in the niches, and hover + over these columns, as in our country they are accustomed to frequent + large stone structures. As we advance there seems no end to the visionary + enchantment which surrounds us. + </p> + <p> + “In the midst of this fantastic scenery are vast ranges of walls, which + seem the productions of art, so regular is the workmanship. They rise + perpendicularly from the river, sometimes to the height of one hundred + feet, varying in thickness from one to twelve feet, being as broad at the + top as below. The stones of which they are formed are black, thick, + durable, and composed of a large portion of earth, intermixed and cemented + with a small quantity of sand and a considerable proportion of talk (talc) + or quartz. These stones are almost invariably regular parallelopipeds of + unequal sizes in the wall, but equally deep and laid regularly in ranges + over each other like bricks, each breaking and covering the interstice of + the two on which it rests; but though the perpendicular interstice be + destroyed, the horizontal one extends entirely through the whole work. The + stones are proportioned to the thickness of the wall in which they are + employed, being largest in the thickest walls. The thinner walls are + composed of a single depth of the parallelopiped, while the thicker ones + consist of two or more depths. These walls pass the river at several + places, rising from the water’s edge much above the sandstone bluffs, + which they seem to penetrate; thence they cross in a straight line, on + either side of the river, the plains, over which they tower to the height + of from ten to seventy feet, until they lose themselves in the second + range of hills. Sometimes they run parallel in several ranges near to each + other, sometimes intersect each other at right angles, and have the + appearance of walls of ancient houses or gardens.” + </p> + <p> + The wall-like, canyon formations were charted by Lewis and Clark as “The + Stone Walls.” Their fantastic outlines have been admired and described by + modern tourists, and some of them have been named “Cathedral Rocks,” + “Citadel Rock,” “Hole in the Wall,” and so on. + </p> + <p> + Passing out of this wonderful region, the expedition entered upon a more + level country, here and there broken by bluffy formations which extended + along the river, occasionally interspersed with low hills. Their journal + says: + </p> + <p> + “In the plains near the river are the choke-cherry, yellow and red currant + bushes, as well as the wild rose and prickly pear, both of which are now + in bloom. From the tops of the river-hills, which are lower than usual, we + enjoyed a delightful view of the rich, fertile plains on both sides, in + many places extending from the river-cliffs to a great distance back. In + these plains we meet, occasionally, large banks of pure sand, which were + driven apparently by the southwest winds and there deposited. The plains + are more fertile some distance from the river than near its banks, where + the surface of the earth is very generally strewed with small pebbles, + which appear to be smoothed and worn by the agitation of the waters with + which they were, no doubt, once covered.” + </p> + <p> + Under date of June 2d, the journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “The current of the river is strong but regular, the timber increases in + quantity, the low grounds become more level and extensive, and the bluffs + are lower than before. As the game is very abundant, we think it necessary + to begin a collection of hides for the purpose of making a leathern boat, + which we intend constructing shortly. The hunters, who were out the + greater part of the day, brought in six elk, two buffalo, two mule-deer, + and a bear. This last animal had nearly cost us the lives of two of our + hunters, who were together when he attacked them. One of them narrowly + escaped being caught, and the other, after running a considerable + distance, concealed himself in some thick bushes, and, while the bear was + in quick pursuit of his hiding-place, his companion came up, and + fortunately shot the animal through the head.” + </p> + <p> + Here the party came to the mouth of a large river which entered the + Missouri from the northwest, at the site of the latter-day town of Ophir, + Montana. This stream they named Maria’s River, in honor of another + Virginia damsel. So large and important in appearance was Maria’s River + that the explorers were not certain which was the main stream, that which + came in from the north, or that which, flowing here in a general course + from southwest to northeast, was really the true Missouri. The journal + says: + </p> + <p> + “It now became an interesting question, which of these two streams is what + the Minnetarees call Ahmateahza, or Missouri, which they describe as + approaching very near to the Columbia. On our right decision much of the + fate of the expedition depends; since if, after ascending to the Rocky + Mountains or beyond them, we should find that the river we were following + did not come near the Columbia, and be obliged to return, we should not + only lose the travelling season, two months of which have already elapsed, + but probably dishearten the men so much as to induce them either to + abandon the enterprise, or yield us a cold obedience, instead of the warm + and zealous support which they have hitherto afforded us. We determined, + therefore, to examine well before we decided on our future course. For + this purpose we despatched two canoes with three men up each of the + streams, with orders to ascertain the width, depth, and rapidity of the + current, so as to judge of their comparative bodies of water. At the same + time parties were sent out by land to penetrate the country, and discover + from the rising grounds, if possible, the distant bearings of the two + rivers; and all were directed to return toward evening. . . .” + </p> + <p> + Both parties returned without bringing any information that would settle + the point. Which was the true Missouri still remained uncertain. Under + these circumstances, it became necessary that there should be a more + thorough exploration, and the next morning Captains Lewis and Clark set + out at the head of two separate parties, the former to examine the north, + and the latter the south fork. In his progress Captain Lewis and his party + were frequently obliged to quit the course of the river and cross the + plains and hills, but he did not lose sight of its general direction, and + carefully took the bearings of the distant mountains. On the morning of + the third day he became convinced that this river pursued a course too far + north for his contemplated route to the Pacific, and he accordingly + determined to return, but judged it advisable to wait till noon, that he + might obtain a meridian altitude. In this, however, he was disappointed, + owing to the state of the weather. Much rain had fallen, and their return + was somewhat difficult, and not unattended with danger, as the following + incident, which occurred on June 7th, will show: + </p> + <p> + “In passing along the side of a bluff at a narrow pass thirty yards in + length, Captain Lewis slipped, and, but for a fortunate recovery by means + of his spontoon, would have been precipitated into the river over a + precipice of about ninety feet. He had just reached a spot where, by the + assistance of his spontoon, he could stand with tolerable safety, when he + heard a voice behind him cry out, ‘Good God, captain, what shall I do?’ He + turned instantly, and found it was Windsor, who had lost his foothold + about the middle of the narrow pass, and had slipped down to the very + verge of the precipice, where he lay on his belly, with his right arm and + leg over it, while with the other leg and arm he was with difficulty + holding on, to keep himself from being dashed to pieces below. His + dreadful situation was instantly perceived by Captain Lewis, who, stifling + his alarm, calmly told him that he was in no danger; that he should take + his knife out of his belt with his right hand, and dig a hole in the side + of the bluff to receive his right foot. With great presence of mind he did + this, and then raised himself on his knees. Captain Lewis then told him to + take off his moccasins and come forward on his hands and knees, holding + the knife in one hand and his rifle in the other. He immediately crawled + in this way till he came to a secure spot. The men who had not attempted + this passage were ordered to return and wade the river at the foot of the + bluff, where they found the water breast-high. This adventure taught them + the danger of crossing the slippery heights of the river; but as the + plains were intersected by deep ravines, almost as difficult to pass, they + continued down the river, sometimes in the mud of the low grounds, + sometimes up to their arms in the water; and when it became too deep to + wade, they cut footholds with their knives in the sides of the banks. In + this way they travelled through the rain, mud, and water, and having made + only eighteen miles during the whole day, camped in an old Indian lodge of + sticks, which afforded them a dry shelter. Here they cooked part of six + deer they had killed in the course of their walk, and having eaten the + only morsel they had tasted during the whole day, slept comfortably on + some willow-boughs.” + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0010" id="link2HCH0010"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter X — To the Great Falls of the Missouri + </h2> + <p> + Next day, June 8, the Lewis party returned to the main body of the + expedition. They reported that timber was scarce along the river, except + in the lowlands, where there were pretty groves and thickets. These trees, + the journal says, were the haunts of innumerable birds, which, as the sun + rose, sung delightfully:— + </p> + <p> + “Among these birds they distinguished the brown thrush, robin, + turtle-dove, linnet, gold-finch, large and small blackbird, wren, and some + others. As they came along, the whole party were of opinion that this + river was the true Missouri; but Captain Lewis, being fully persuaded that + it was neither the main stream, nor that which it would be advisable to + ascend, gave it the name of Maria’s River. After travelling all day they + reached camp about five o’clock in the afternoon, and found Captain Clark + and the party very anxious for their safety. As they had stayed two days + longer than had been expected, and as Captain Clark had returned at the + appointed time, it was feared that they had met with some accident.” + </p> + <p> + As we now know, the stream that came in from the north was that which is + still called Maria’s (or Marais) River, and the so-called branch from the + southwest was the Missouri River. Lewis and Clark, however, were in the + dark as to the relations of the two streams. Which was the parent? Which + was the branch? After pondering all the evidence that could be collected + to bear on the important question, the two captains agreed that the + southern stream was the true Missouri, and the northern stream was an + important branch. The journal says: + </p> + <p> + “These observations, which satisfied our minds completely, we communicated + to the party; but every one of them was of a contrary opinion. Much of + their belief depended on Crusatte, an experienced waterman on the + Missouri, who gave it as his decided judgment that the north fork was the + genuine Missouri. The men, therefore, mentioned that, although they would + most cheerfully follow us wherever we should direct, yet they were afraid + that the south fork would soon terminate in the Rocky Mountains, and leave + us at a great distance from the Columbia. In order that nothing might be + omitted which could prevent our falling into an error, it was agreed that + one of us should ascend the southern branch by land, until we reached + either the falls or the mountains. In the meantime, in order to lighten + our burdens as much as possible, we determined to deposit here one of the + pirogues, and all the heavy baggage which we could possibly spare, as well + as some provision, salt, powder, and tools. This would at once lighten the + other boats, and give them the crew which had been employed on board the + pirogue.” + </p> + <p> + On the tenth of June, the weather being fair and pleasant, they dried all + their baggage and merchandise and secreted them in places of deposits, + called caches, as follows:— + </p> + <p> + “These deposits—or caches, as they are called by the Missouri + traders—are very common, particularly among those who deal with the + Sioux, as the skins and merchandise will keep perfectly sound for years, + and are protected from robbery. Our cache was built in the usual manner. + In the high plain on the north side of the Missouri, and forty yards from + a steep bluff, we chose a dry situation, and then, describing a small + circle of about twenty inches diameter, removed the sod as gently and + carefully as possible: the hole was then sunk perpendicularly for a foot + deep. It was now worked gradually wider as it descended, till at length it + became six or seven feet deep, shaped nearly like a kettle, or the lower + part of a large still with the bottom somewhat sunk at the centre. As the + earth was dug it was handed up in a vessel, and carefully laid on a skin + or cloth, in which it was carried away and thrown into the river, so as to + leave no trace of it. A floor of three or four inches in thickness was + then made of dry sticks, on which was placed a hide perfectly dry. The + goods, being well aired and dried, were laid on this floor, and prevented + from touching the wall by other dried sticks, as the merchandise was + stowed away. When the hole was nearly full, a skin was laid over the + goods, and on this earth was thrown and beaten down, until, with the + addition of the sod first removed, the whole was on a level with the + ground, and there remained not the slightest appearance of an excavation. + In addition to this, we made another of smaller dimensions, in which we + placed all the baggage, some powder, and our blacksmith’s tools, having + previously repaired such of the tools as we carry with us that require + mending. To guard against accident, we had two parcelss of lead and powder + in the two places. The red pirogue was drawn up on the middle of a small + island, at the entrance of Maria’s River, and secured, by being fastened + to the trees, from the effects of any floods. We now took another + observation of the meridian altitude of the sun, and found that the mean + latitude of Maria’s River, as deduced from three observations, is 49'0 25’ + 17.2” N.” + </p> + <p> + In order to make assurance doubly sure, Captain Lewis resolved to take + four men with him and ascend the south branch (that is, the true + Missouri), before committing the expedition to that route as the final + one. His proposition was that his party should proceed up the river as + rapidly as possible in advance of the main party. On the second day out, + says the journal:— + </p> + <p> + “Captain Lewis left the bank of the river in order to avoid the steep + ravines, which generally run from the shore to the distance of one or two + miles in the plain. Having reached the open country he went for twelve + miles in a course a little to the W. of S.W.; when, the sun becoming warm + by nine o’clock, he returned to the river in quest of water, and to kill + something for breakfast; there being no water in the plain, and the + buffalo, discovering them before they came within gunshot, took to flight. + They reached the banks in a handsome open low ground with cottonwood, + after three miles’ walk. Here they saw two large brown bears, and killed + them both at the first fire—a circumstance which has never before + occurred since we have seen that animal. Having made a meal of a part, and + hung the remainder on a tree, with a note for Captain Clark, they again + ascended the bluffs into the open plains. Here they saw great numbers of + the burrowing-squirrel, also some wolves, antelopes, mule-deer, and vast + herds of buffalo. They soon crossed a ridge considerably higher than the + surrounding plains, and from its top had a beautiful view of the Rocky + Mountains, which are now completely covered with snow. Their general + course is from S.E. to N. of N.W., and they seem to consist of several + ranges which successively rise above each other, till the most distant + mingles with the clouds. After travelling twelve miles they again met the + river, where there was a handsome plain of cottonwood.” + </p> + <p> + Again leaving the river, Captain Lewis bore off more to the north, the + stream here bearing considerably to the south, with difficult bluffs along + its course. But fearful of passing the Great Falls before reaching the + Rocky Mountains, he again changed his course and, leaving the bluffs to + his right he turned towards the river. + </p> + <p> + The journal gives this description of what followed:— + </p> + <p> + “In this direction Captain Lewis had gone about two miles, when his ears + were saluted with the agreeable sound of a fall of water, and as he + advanced a spray, which seemed driven by the high southwest wind, arose + above the plain like a column of smoke, and vanished in an instant. Toward + this point he directed his steps; the noise increased as he approached, + and soon became too tremendous to be mistaken for anything but the Great + Falls of the Missouri. Having travelled seven miles after first hearing + the sound, he reached the falls about twelve o’clock. The hills as he + approached were difficult of access and two hundred feet high. Down these + he hurried with impatience; and, seating himself on some rocks under the + centre of the falls, enjoyed the sublime spectacle of this stupendous + object, which since the creation had been lavishing its magnificence upon + the desert, unknown to civilization. + </p> + <p> + “The river immediately at this cascade is three hundred yards wide, and is + pressed in by a perpendicular cliff on the left, which rises to about one + hundred feet and extends up the stream for a mile; on the right the bluff + is also perpendicular for three hundred yards above the falls. For ninety + or one hundred yards from the left cliff, the water falls in one smooth, + even sheet, over a precipice of at least eighty feet. The remaining part + of the river precipitates itself with a more rapid current, but being + received as it falls by the irregular and somewhat projecting rocks below, + forms a splendid prospect of perfectly white foam, two hundred yards in + length and eighty in perpendicular elevation. This spray is dissipated + into a thousand shapes, sometimes flying up in columns of fifteen or + twenty feet, which are then oppressed by larger masses of the white foam, + on all of which the sun impresses the brightest colors of the rainbow. + Below the fall the water beats with fury against a ledge of rocks, which + extends across the river at one hundred and fifty yards from the + precipice. From the perpendicular cliff on the north to the distance of + one hundred and twenty yards, the rocks are only a few feet above the + water; and, when the river is high, the stream finds a channel across them + forty yards wide, and near the higher parts of the ledge, which rise about + twenty feet, and terminate abruptly within eighty or ninety yards of the + southern side. Between them and the perpendicular cliff on the south, the + whole body of water runs with great swiftness. A few small cedars grow + near this ridge of rocks, which serves as a barrier to defend a small + plain of about three acres, shaded with cottonwood; at the lower extremity + of which is a grove of the same trees, where are several deserted Indian + cabins of sticks; below which the river is divided by a large rock, + several feet above the surface of the water, and extending down the stream + for twenty yards. At the distance of three hundred yards from the same + ridge is a second abutment of solid perpendicular rock, about sixty feet + high, projecting at right angles from the small plain on the north for one + hundred and thirty-four yards into the river. After leaving this, the + Missouri again spreads itself to its previous breadth of three hundred + yards, though with more than its ordinary rapidity.” + </p> + <p> + One of Lewis’s men was sent back to inform Captain Clark of this momentous + discovery, which finally settled all doubt as to which was the true + Missouri. The famous Great Falls of the river had been finally reached. + Captain Lewis next went on to examine the rapids above the falls. The + journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “After passing one continued rapid and three cascades, each three or four + feet high, he reached, at the distance of five miles, a second fall. The + river is here about four hundred yards wide, and for the distance of three + hundred rushes down to the depth of nineteen feet, and so irregularly that + he gave it the name of the Crooked Falls. From the southern shore it + extends obliquely upward about one hundred and fifty yards, and then forms + an acute angle downward nearly to the commencement of four small islands + close to the northern side. From the perpendicular pitch to these islands, + a distance of more than one hundred yards, the water glides down a sloping + rock with a velocity almost equal to that of its fall: above this fall the + river bends suddenly to the northward. While viewing this place, Captain + Lewis heard a loud roar above him, and, crossing the point of a hill a few + hundred yards, he saw one of the most beautiful objects in nature: the + whole Missouri is suddenly stopped by one shelving rock, which, without a + single niche, and with an edge as straight and regular as if formed by + art, stretches itself from one side of the river to the other for at least + a quarter of a mile. Over this it precipitates itself in an even, + uninterrupted sheet, to the perpendicular depth of fifty feet, whence, + dashing against the rocky bottom, it rushes rapidly down, leaving behind + it a sheet of the purest foam across the river. The scene which it + presented was indeed singularly beautiful; since, without any of the wild, + irregular sublimity of the lower falls, it combined all the regular + elegancies which the fancy of a painter would select to form a beautiful + waterfall. The eye had scarcely been regaled with this charming prospect, + when at the distance of half a mile Captain Lewis observed another of a + similar kind. To this he immediately hastened, and found a cascade + stretching across the whole river for a quarter of a mile, with a descent + of fourteen feet, though the perpendicular pitch was only six feet. This, + too, in any other neighborhood, would have been an object of great + magnificence; but after what he had just seen, it became of secondary + interest. His curiosity being, however, awakened, he determined to go on, + even should night overtake him, to the head of the falls. + </p> + <p> + “He therefore pursued the southwest course of the river, which was one + constant succession of rapids and small cascades, at every one of which + the bluffs grew lower, or the bed of the river became more on a level with + the plains. At the distance of two and one-half miles he arrived at + another cataract, of twenty-six feet. The river is here six hundred yards + wide, but the descent is not immediately perpendicular, though the river + falls generally with a regular and smooth sheet; for about one-third of + the descent a rock protrudes to a small distance, receives the water in + its passage, and gives it a curve. On the south side is a beautiful plain, + a few feet above the level of the falls; on the north, the country is more + broken, and there is a hill not far from the river. Just below the falls + is a little island in the middle of the river, well covered with timber. + Here on a cottonwood tree an eagle had fixed her nest, and seemed the + undisputed mistress of a spot, to contest whose dominion neither man nor + beast would venture across the gulfs that surround it, and which is + further secured by the mist rising from the falls. This solitary bird + could not escape the observation of the Indians, who made the eagle’s nest + a part of their description of the falls, which now proves to be correct + in almost every particular, except that they did not do justice to the + height. + </p> + <p> + “Just above this is a cascade of about five feet, beyond which, as far as + could be discerned, the velocity of the water seemed to abate. Captain + Lewis now ascended the hill which was behind him, and saw from its top a + delightful plain, extending from the river to the base of the Snowy + (Rocky) Mountains to the south and southwest. Along this wide, level + country the Missouri pursued its winding course, filled with water to its + smooth, grassy banks, while about four miles above, it was joined by a + large river flowing from the northwest, through a valley three miles in + width, and distinguished by the timber which adorned its shores. The + Missouri itself stretches to the south, in one unruffled stream of water, + as if unconscious of the roughness it must soon encounter, and bearing on + its bosom vast flocks of geese, while numerous herds of buffalo are + feeding on the plains which surround it. + </p> + <p> + “Captain Lewis then descended the hill, and directed his course towards + the river falling in from the west. He soon met a herd of at least a + thousand buffalo, and, being desirous of providing for supper, shot one of + them. The animal immediately began to bleed, and Captain Lewis, who had + forgotten to reload his rifle, was intently watching to see him fall, when + he beheld a large brown bear which was stealing on him unperceived, and + was already within twenty steps. In the first moment of surprise he lifted + his rifle; but, remembering instantly that it was not charged, and that he + had no time to reload, he felt that there was no safety but in flight. It + was in the open, level plain; not a bush nor a tree within three hundred + yards; the bank of the river sloping, and not more than three feet high, + so that there was no possible mode of concealment. Captain Lewis, + therefore, thought of retreating with a quick walk, as fast as the bear + advanced, towards the nearest tree; but, as soon as he turned, the bear + rushed open-mouthed, and at full speed, upon him. Captain Lewis ran about + eighty yards, but finding that the animal gained on him fast, it flashed + on his mind that, by getting into the water to such a depth that the bear + would be obliged to attack him swimming, there was still some chance of + his life; he therefore turned short, plunged into the river about + waist-deep, and facing about presented the point of his espontoon. The + bear arrived at the water’s edge within twenty feet of him; but as soon as + he put himself in this posture of defence, the bear seemed frightened, and + wheeling about, retreated with as much precipitation as he had pursued. + Very glad to be released from this danger, Captain Lewis returned to the + shore, and observed him run with great speed, sometimes looking back as if + he expected to be pursued, till he reached the woods. He could not + conceive the cause of the sudden alarm of the bear, but congratulated + himself on his escape when he saw his own track torn to pieces by the + furious animal, and learned from the whole adventure never to suffer his + rifle to be a moment unloaded.” + </p> + <p> + Captain Lewis now resumed his progress towards the western, or Sun, River, + then more commonly known among the Indians as Medicine River. In going + through the lowlands of this stream, he met an animal which he thought was + a wolf, but which was more likely a wolverine, or carcajou. The journal + says:— + </p> + <p> + “It proved to be some brownish yellow animal, standing near its burrow, + which, when he came nigh, crouched, and seemed as if about to spring on + him. Captain Lewis fired, and the beast disappeared in its burrow. From + the track, and the general appearance of the animal, he supposed it to be + of the tiger kind. He then went on; but, as if the beasts of the forest + had conspired against him, three buffalo bulls, which were feeding with a + large herd at the distance of half a mile, left their companions, and ran + at full speed towards him. He turned round, and, unwilling to give up the + field, advanced to meet them: when they were within a hundred yards they + stopped, looked at him for some time, and then retreated as they came. He + now pursued his route in the dark, reflecting on the strange adventures + and sights of the day, which crowded on his mind so rapidly, that he + should have been inclined to believe it all enchantment if the thorns of + the prickly pear, piercing his feet, had not dispelled at every moment the + illusion. He at last reached the party, who had been very anxious for his + safety, and who had already decided on the route which each should take in + the morning to look for him. Being much fatigued, he supped, and slept + well during the night.” + </p> + <p> + On awaking the next morning, Captain Lewis found a large rattlesnake + coiled on the trunk of a tree under which he had been sleeping. He killed + it, and found it like those he had seen before, differing from those of + the Atlantic States, not in its colors, but in the form and arrangement of + them. Information was received that Captain Clark had arrived five miles + below, at a rapid which he did not think it prudent to ascend, and that he + was waiting there for the party above to rejoin him. + </p> + <p> + After the departure of Captain Lewis, Captain Clark had remained a day at + Maria’s River, to complete the deposit of such articles as they could + dispense with, and started on the twelfth of June. + </p> + <p> + Four days later, Captain Clark left the river, having sent his messenger + to Captain Lewis, and began to search for a proper portage to convey the + pirogue and canoes across to the Columbia River, leaving most of the men + to hunt, make wheels and draw the canoes up a creek which they named + Portage Creek, as it was to be the base of their future operations. The + stream is now known as Belt Mountain Creek. But the explorers soon found + that although the pirogue was to be left behind, the way was too difficult + for a portage even for canoes. The journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “We found great difficulty and some danger in even ascending the creek + thus far, in consequence of the rapids and rocks of the channel of the + creek, which just above where we brought the canoes has a fall of five + feet, with high steep bluffs beyond it. We were very fortunate in finding, + just below Portage Creek, a cottonwood tree about twenty-two inches in + diameter, large enough to make the carriage-wheels. It was, perhaps, the + only one of the same size within twenty miles; and the cottonwood which we + are obliged to employ in the other parts of the work is extremely soft and + brittle. The mast of the white pirogue, which we mean to leave behind, + supplied us with two axle-trees. + </p> + <p> + “There are vast quantities of buffalo feeding on the plains or watering in + the river, which is also strewed with the floating carcasses and limbs of + these animals. They go in large herds to water about the falls, and as all + the passages to the river near that place are narrow and steep, the + foremost are pressed into the river by the impatience of those behind. In + this way we have seen ten or a dozen disappear over the falls in a few + minutes. They afford excellent food for the wolves, bears, and birds of + prey; which circumstance may account for the reluctance of the bears to + yield their dominion over the neighborhood. + </p> + <p> + “The pirogue was drawn up a little below our camp, and secured in a thick + copse of willow-bushes. We now began to form a cache or place of deposit, + and to dry our goods and other articles which required inspection. The + wagons are completed. Our hunters brought us ten deer, and we shot two out + of a herd of buffalo that came to water at Sulphur Spring. There is a + species of gooseberry, growing abundantly among the rocks on the sides of + the cliffs. It is now ripe, of a pale red color, about the size of the + common gooseberry, and like it is an ovate pericarp of soft pulp + enveloping a number of small whitish seeds, and consisting of a yellowish, + slimy, mucilaginous substance, with a sweet taste; the surface of the + berry is covered glutinous, adhesive matter, and its fruit, though ripe, + retains its withered corolla. The shrub itself seldom rises more than two + feet high, is much branched, and has no thorns. The leaves resemble those + of the common gooseberry, except in being smaller, and the berry is + supported by separate peduncles or foot-stalks half an inch long. There + are also immense quantities of grasshoppers, of a brown color, on the + plains; they, no doubt, contribute to the lowness of the grass, which is + not generally more than three inches high, though it is soft, + narrow-leaved, and affords a fine pasture for the buffalo.” + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0011" id="link2HCH0011"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XI — A the Heart of the Continent + </h2> + <p> + Captain Clark continued his observations up the long series of rapids and + falls until he came to a group of three small islands to which he gave the + name of White Bear Islands, from his having seen numerous white, or + grizzly, bears on them. On the nineteenth of June, Captain Clark, after a + careful survey of the country on both sides of the stream, decided that + the best place for a portage was on the south, or lower, side of the + river, the length of the portage being estimated to be about eighteen + miles, over which the canoes and supplies must be carried. Next day he + proceeded to mark out the exact route of the portage, or carry, by driving + stakes along its lines and angles. From the survey and drawing which he + made, the party now had a clear and accurate view of the falls, cascades, + and rapids of the Missouri; and, it may be added, this draught, which is + reproduced on another page of this book, is still so correct in all its + measurements that when a Montana manufacturing company undertook to build + a dam at Black Eagle Falls, nearly one hundred years afterwards, they + discovered that their surveys and those of Captain Clark were precisely + alike. The total fall of the river, from the White Bear Islands, as Lewis + and Clark called them, to the foot of the Great Falls, is four hundred + twelve and five-tenths feet; the sheer drop of the Great Fall is + seventy-five and five-tenths feet. The wild, trackless prairie of Lewis + and Clark’s time is now the site of the thriving town of Great Falls, + which has a population of ten thousand. + </p> + <p> + Here is a lucid and connected account of the falls and rapids, discovered + and described by Lewis and Clark: + </p> + <p> + “This river is three hundred yards wide at the point where it receives the + waters of Medicine (Sun) River, which is one hundred and thirty-seven + yards in width. The united current continues three hundred and + twenty-eight poles to a small rapid on the north side, from which it + gradually widens to fourteen hundred yards, and at the distance of five + hundred and forty-eight poles reaches the head of the rapids, narrowing as + it approaches them. Here the hills on the north, which had withdrawn from + the bank, closely border the river, which, for the space of three hundred + and twenty poles, makes its way over the rocks, with a descent of thirty + feet. In this course the current is contracted to five hundred and eighty + yards, and after throwing itself over a small pitch of five feet, forms a + beautiful cascade of twenty-six feet five inches; this does not, however, + fall immediately or perpendicularly, being stopped by a part of the rock, + which projects at about one-third of the distance. After descending this + fall, and passing the cottonwood island on which the eagle has fixed her + nest, the river goes on for five hundred and thirty-two poles over rapids + and little falls, the estimated descent of which is thirteen and one-half + feet, till it is joined by a large fountain boiling up underneath the + rocks near the edge of the river, into which it falls with a cascade of + eight feet. The water of this fountain is of the most perfect clearness, + and of rather a bluish cast; and, even after falling into the Missouri, it + preserves its color for half a mile. From the fountain the river descends + with increased rapidity for the distance of two hundred and fourteen + poles, during which the estimated descent is five feet; and from this, for + a distance of one hundred and thirty-five poles, it descends fourteen feet + seven inches, including a perpendicular fall of six feet seven inches. The + Missouri has now become pressed into a space of four hundred and + seventy-three yards, and here forms a grand cataract, by falling over a + plain rock the whole distance across the river, to the depth of + forty-seven feet eight inches. After recovering itself, it then proceeds + with an estimated descent of three feet, till, at the distance of one + hundred and two poles, it is precipitated down the Crooked Falls nineteen + feet perpendicular. Below this, at the mouth of a deep ravine, is a fall + of five feet; after which, for the distance of nine hundred and seventy + poles, the descent is much more gradual, not being more than ten feet, and + then succeeds a handsome level plain for the space of one hundred and + seventy-eight poles, with a computed descent of three feet, the river + making a bend towards the north. Thence it descends, for four hundred and + eighty poles, about eighteen and one-half feet, when it makes a + perpendicular fall of two feet, which is ninety poles beyond the great + cataract; in approaching which, it descends thirteen feet within two + hundred yards, and, gathering strength from its confined channel, which is + only two hundred and eighty yards wide, rushes over the fall to the depth + of eighty-seven feet. + </p> + <p> + “After raging among the rocks, and losing itself in foam, it is compressed + immediately into a bed of ninety-three yards in width: it continues for + three hundred and forty poles to the entrance of a run or deep ravine, + where there is a fall of three feet, which, added to the decline during + that distance, makes the descent six feet. As it goes on, the descent + within the next two hundred and forty poles is only four feet; from this, + passing a run or deep ravine, the descent in four hundred poles is + thirteen feet; within two hundred and forty poles, another descent of + eighteen feet; thence, in one hundred and sixty poles, a descent of six + feet; after which, to the mouth of Portage Creek, a distance of two + hundred and eighty poles, the descent is ten feet. From this survey and + estimate, it results that the river experiences a descent of three hundred + and fifty-two feet in the distance of two and three quarter miles, from + the commencement of the rapids to the mouth of Portage Creek, exclusive of + the almost impassable rapids which extend for a mile below its entrance.” + </p> + <p> + On the twenty-first of the month, all the needed preparations having been + finished, the arduous work of making the portage, or carry, was begun. All + the members of the expedition were now together, and the two captains + divided with their men the labor of hunting, carrying luggage, + boat-building, exploring, and so on. They made three camps, the lower one + on Portage Creek, the next at Willow Run (see map), and a third at a point + opposite White Bear Islands. The portage was not completed until July + second. They were often delayed by the breaking down of their rude + carriages, and during the last stage of their journey much of their + luggage was carried on the backs of the men. They were also very much + annoyed with the spines of the prickly pear, a species of cactus, which, + growing low on the ground, is certain to be trampled upon by the wayfarer. + The spines ran through the moccasins of the men and sorely wounded their + feet. Thus, under date of June twenty-fourth, the journal says (It should + be understood that the portage was worked from above and below the + rapids):— + </p> + <p> + “On going down yesterday Captain Clark cut off several angles of the + former route, so as to shorten the portage considerably, and marked it + with stakes. He arrived there in time to have two of the canoes carried up + in the high plain, about a mile in advance. Here they all repaired their + moccasins, and put on double soles to protect them from the prickly pear, + and from the sharp points of earth which have been formed by the trampling + of the buffalo during the late rains. This of itself is sufficient to + render the portage disagreeable to one who has no burden; but as the men + are loaded as heavily as their strength will permit, the crossing is + really painful. Some are limping with the soreness of their feet; others + are scarcely able to stand for more than a few minutes, from the heat and + fatigue. They are all obliged to halt and rest frequently; at almost every + stopping-place they fall, and many of them are asleep in an instant; yet + no one complains, and they go on with great cheerfulness. At the camp, + midway in the portage, Drewyer and Fields joined them; for, while Captain + Lewis was looking for them at Medicine River, they returned to report the + absence of Shannon, about whom they had been very uneasy. They had killed + several buffalo at the bend of the Missouri above the falls, dried about + eight hundred pounds of meat, and got one hundred pounds of tallow; they + had also killed some deer, but had seen no elk.” + </p> + <p> + Under this date, too, Captain Lewis, who was with another branch of the + expedition, makes this note: “Such as were able to shake a foot amused + themselves in dancing on the green to the music of the violin which + Cruzatte plays extremely well.” + </p> + <p> + The journal continues:— + </p> + <p> + “We were now occupied (at White Bear camp) in fitting up a boat of skins, + the frame of which had been prepared for the purpose at Harper’s Ferry in + Virginia. It was made of iron, thirty-six feet long, four and one-half + feet in the beam, and twenty-six inches wide in the bottom. Two men had + been sent this morning for timber to complete it, but they could find + scarcely any even tolerably straight sticks four and one-half feet long; + and as the cottonwood is too soft and brittle, we were obliged to use + willow and box-elder.” + </p> + <p> + On the twenty-seventh, the main party, which was working on the upper part + of the portage, joined that of Captain Clark at the lower camp, where a + second cache, or place of deposit, had been formed, and where the + boat-swivel was now hidden under the rocks. The journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “The party were employed in preparing timber for the boat, except two who + were sent to hunt. About one in the afternoon a cloud arose from the + southwest, and brought with it violent thunder, lightning, and hail. Soon + after it passed, the hunters came in, from about four miles above us. They + had killed nine elk and three bears. As they were hunting on the river + they saw a low ground covered with thick brushwood, where from the tracks + along shore they thought a bear had probably taken refuge. They therefore + landed, without making a noise, and climbed a tree about twenty feet above + the ground. Having fixed themselves securely, they raised a loud shout, + and a bear instantly rushed toward them. These animals never climb, and + therefore when he came to the tree and stopped to look at them, Drewyer + shot him in the head. He proved to be the largest we had yet seen; his + nose appeared to be like that of a common ox; his fore feet measured nine + inches across; the hind feet were seven inches wide and eleven and three + quarters long, exclusive of the talons. One of these animals came within + thirty yards of the camp last night, and carried off some buffalo-meat + which we had placed on a pole.” + </p> + <p> + The party were very much annoyed here by the grizzlies which infested + their camp at night. Their faithful dog always gave warning of the + approach of one of these monsters; but the men were obliged to sleep with + their guns by their side, ready to repel the enemy at a moment’s notice. + </p> + <p> + Captain Clark finally broke up the camp on Portage Creek, June 28, having + deposited in his cache whatever could be left behind without + inconvenience. “On the following day,” the journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “Finding it impossible to reach the upper end of the portage with the + present load, in consequence of the state of the road after the rain, he + sent back nearly all his party to bring on the articles which had been + left yesterday. Having lost some notes and remarks which he had made on + first ascending the river, he determined to go up to the Whitebear Islands + along its banks, in order to supply the deficiency. He there left one man + to guard the baggage, and went on to the falls, accompanied by his servant + York, Chaboneau, and his wife with her young child. + </p> + <p> + “On his arrival there he observed a very dark cloud rising in the west, + which threatened rain, and looked around for some shelter; but could find + no place where the party would be secure from being blown into the river, + if the wind should prove as violent as it sometimes does in the plains. At + length, about a quarter of a mile above the falls, he found a deep ravine, + where there were some shelving rocks, under which he took refuge. They + were on the upper side of the ravine near the river, perfectly safe from + the rain, and therefore laid down their guns, compass, and other articles + which they carried with them. The shower was at first moderate; it then + increased to a heavy rain, the effects of which they did not feel; but + soon after, a torrent of rain and hail descended. The rain seemed to fall + in a solid mass, and instantly, collecting in the ravine, came rolling + down in a dreadful current, carrying the mud, rocks, and everything that + opposed it. Captain Clark fortunately saw it a moment before it reached + them, and springing up with his gun and shot-pouch in his left hand, with + his right clambered up the steep bluff, pushing on the Indian woman with + her child in her arms; her husband too had seized her hand and was pulling + her tip the hill, but he was so terrified at the danger that he remained + frequently motionless; and but for Captain Clark, himself and his wife and + child would have been lost. So instantaneous was the rise of the water + that, before Captain Clark had reached his gun and begun to ascend the + bank, the water was up to his waist, and he could scarcely get up faster + than it rose, till it reached the height of fifteen feet, with a furious + current which, had they waited a moment longer, would have swept them into + the river just above the Great Falls, down which they must inevitably have + been precipitated. They reached the plain in safety and found York, who + had separated from them just before the storm to hunt some buffalo, and + was now returning to find his master. They had been obliged to escape so + rapidly that Captain Clark lost his compass (that is, circumferentor) and + umbrella, Chaboneau left his gun, with Captain Lewis’ wiping-rod, + shot-pouch, and tomahawk, and the Indian woman had just time to grasp her + child, before the net in which it lay at her feet was carried down the + current.” + </p> + <p> + Such a storm is known in the West as a cloud-burst. Overland emigrants in + the early rush to California often suffered loss from these sudden + deluges. A party of men, with wagons and animals, have been known to be + swept away and lost in a flood bursting in a narrow canyon in the + mountains. + </p> + <p> + “Captain Clark now relinquished his intention of going up the river, and + returned to the camp at Willow Run. Here he found that the party sent this + morning for the baggage had all returned to camp in great confusion, + leaving their loads in the plain. On account of the heat, they generally + go nearly naked, and with no covering on their heads. The hail was so + large, and driven so furiously against them by the high wind, that it + knocked several of them down: one of them, particularly, was thrown on the + ground three times, and most of them were bleeding freely, and complained + of being much bruised. Willow Run had risen six feet since the rain; and, + as the plains were so wet that they could not proceed, they passed the + night at their camp. + </p> + <p> + “At the White Bear camp, also,” (says Lewis), “we had not been insensible + to the hailstorm, though less exposed. In the morning there had been a + heavy shower of rain, after which it became fair. After assigning to the + men their respective employments, Captain Lewis took one of them, and went + to see the large fountain near the falls. . . . It is, perhaps, the + largest in America, and is situated in a pleasant level plain, about + twenty-five yards from the river, into which it falls over some steep, + irregular rocks, with a sudden ascent of about six feet in one part of its + course. The water boils up from among the rocks, and with such force near + the centre that the surface seems higher there than the earth on the sides + of the fountain, which is a handsome turf of fine green grass. The water + is extremely pure, cold, and pleasant to the taste, not being impregnated + with lime or any foreign substance. It is perfectly transparent, and + continues its bluish cast for half a mile down the Missouri, + notwithstanding the rapidity of the river. After examining it for some + time, Captain Lewis returned to the camp. . . .” + </p> + <p> + “Two men were sent (June 30) to the falls to look for the articles lost + yesterday; but they found nothing but the compass, covered with mud and + sand, at the mouth of the ravine. The place at which Captain Clark had + been caught by the storm was filled with large rocks. The men complain + much of the bruises received yesterday from the hail. A more than usual + number of buffalo appeared about the camp to-day, and furnished plenty of + meat. Captain Clark thought that at one view he must have seen at least + ten thousand.” + </p> + <p> + Of the party at the upper camp, opposite White Bear Islands, the journal + makes this observation:— + </p> + <p> + “The party continues to be occupied with the boat, the cross-bars for + which are now finished, and there remain only the strips to complete the + woodwork. The skins necessary to cover it have already been prepared; they + amount to twenty-eight elk-skins and four buffalo-skins. Among our game + were two beaver, which we have had occasion to observe are found wherever + there is timber. We also killed a large bull-bat or goatsucker, of which + there are many in this neighborhood, resembling in every respect those of + the same species in the United States. We have not seen the leather-winged + bat for some time, nor are there any of the small goatsucker in this part + of the Missouri. We have not seen that species of goatsucker called the + whippoorwill, which is commonly confounded in the United States with the + large goatsucker which we observe here. This last prepares no nest, but + lays its eggs on the open plains; they generally begin to sit on two eggs, + and we believe raise only one brood in a season; at the present moment + they are just hatching their young.” + </p> + <p> + Dr. Coues says that we should bear in mind that this was written “when + bats were birds and whales were fishes for most persons.” The journal + confounds bats, which are winged mammals, with goatsuckers, or + whippoorwills, which are birds. + </p> + <p> + The second of July was an interesting date for the explorers. On that day + we find the following entry in their journal:— + </p> + <p> + “A shower of rain fell very early this morning. We then despatched some + men for the baggage left behind yesterday, and the rest were engaged in + putting the boat together. This was accomplished in about three hours, and + then we began to sew on the leather over the crossbars of iron on the + inner side of the boat which form the ends of the sections. By two o’clock + the last of the baggage arrived, to the great delight of the party, who + were anxious to proceed. The mosquitoes we find very troublesome. + </p> + <p> + “Having completed our celestial observations, we went over to the large + island to make an attack upon its inhabitants, the bears, which have + annoyed us very much of late, and were prowling about our camp all last + night. We found that the part of the island frequented by the bears forms + an almost impenetrable thicket of the broad-leaved willow. Into this we + forced our way in parties of three; but could see only one bear, which + instantly attacked Drewyer. Fortunately, as he was rushing on, the hunter + shot him through the heart within twenty paces and he fell, which enabled + Drewyer to get out of his way. We then followed him one hundred yards, and + found that the wound had been mortal. + </p> + <p> + “Not being able to discover any more of these animals, we returned to + camp. Here, in turning over some of the baggage, we caught a rat somewhat + larger than the common European rat, and of a lighter color; the body and + outer parts of the legs and head of a light lead color; the inner side of + the legs, as well as the belly, feet, and ears, white; the ears are not + covered with hair, and are much larger than those of the common rat; the + toes also are longer; the eyes are black and prominent, the whiskers very + long and full; the tail is rather longer than the body, and covered with + fine fur and hair of the same size with that on the back, which is very + close, short, and silky in its texture. This was the first we had met, + although its nests are very frequent in the cliffs of rocks and hollow + trees, where we also found large quantities of the shells and seed of the + prickly-pear.” + </p> + <p> + The queer rat discovered by Lewis and Clark was then unknown to science. + It is now known in the Far West as the pack-rat. It lives in holes and + crevices of the rocks, and it subsists on the shells and seeds of the + prickly pear, which is usually abundant in the hunting grounds of the + little animal. The explorers were now constantly in full view of the Rocky + Mountain, on which, however, their present title had not then been + conferred. Under date of July 2, the journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “The mosquitoes are uncommonly troublesome. The wind was again high from + the southwest. These winds are in fact always the coldest and most violent + which we experience, and the hypothesis which we have formed on that + subject is, that the air, coming in contact with the Snowy Mountains, + immediately becomes chilled and condensed, and being thus rendered heavier + than the air below, it descends into the rarefied air below, or into the + vacuum formed by the constant action of the sun on the open unsheltered + plains. The clouds rise suddenly near these mountains, and distribute + their contents partially over the neighboring plains. The same cloud will + discharge hail alone in one part, hail and rain in another, and rain only + in a third, all within the space of a few miles; while at the same time + there is snow falling on the mountains to the southeast of us. There is at + present no snow on those mountains; that which covered them on our + arrival, as well as that which has since fallen, having disappeared. The + mountains to the north and northwest of us are still entirely covered with + snow; indeed, there has been no perceptible diminution of it since we + first saw them, which induces a belief either that the clouds prevailing + at this season do not reach their summits or that they deposit their snow + only. They glisten with great beauty when the sun shines on them in a + particular direction, and most probably from this glittering appearance + have derived the name of the Shining Mountains.” + </p> + <p> + A mysterious noise, heard by the party, here engaged their attention, as + it did years afterwards the attention of other explorers. The journal + says:— + </p> + <p> + “Since our arrival at the falls we have repeatedly heard a strange noise + coming from the mountains in a direction a little to the north of west. It + is heard at different periods of the day and night (sometimes when the air + is perfectly still and without a cloud), and consists of one stroke only, + or of five or six discharges in quick succession. It is loud, and + resembles precisely the sound of a six-pound piece of ordnance at the + distance of three miles. The Minnetarees frequently mentioned this noise, + like thunder, which they said the mountains made; but we had paid no + attention to it, believing it to have been some superstition, or perhaps a + falsehood. The watermen also of the party say that the Pawnees and Ricaras + give the same account of a noise heard in the Black Mountains to the + westward of them. The solution of the mystery given by the philosophy of + the watermen is, that it is occasioned by the bursting of the rich mines + of silver confined within the bosom of the mountains.” + </p> + <p> + Of these strange noises there are many explanations, the most plausible + being that they are caused by the explosion of the species of stone known + as the geode, fragments of which are frequently found among the mountains. + The geode has a hollow cell within, lined with beautiful crystals of many + colors. + </p> + <p> + Independence Day, 1805, was celebrated with becoming patriotism and + cheerfulness by these far-wandering adventurers. Their record says:— + </p> + <p> + “An elk and a beaver are all that were killed to-day; the buffalo seem to + have withdrawn from our neighborhood, though several of the men, who went + to-day to visit the falls for the first time, mention that they are still + abundant at that place. We contrived, however, to spread not a very + sumptuous but a comfortable table in honor of the day, and in the evening + gave the men a drink of spirits, which was the last of our stock. Some of + them appeared sensible to the effects of even so small a quantity; and as + is usual among them on all festivals, the fiddle was produced and a dance + begun, which lasted till nine o’clock, when it was interrupted by a heavy + shower of rain. They continued their merriment, however, till a late + hour.” + </p> + <p> + Their bill-of-fare, according to Captain Lewis, was bacon, beans, suet + dumplings, and buffalo meat, which, he says, “gave them no just cause to + covet the sumptuous feasts of our countrymen on this day.” More than a + year passed before they again saw and tasted spirits. + </p> + <p> + Great expectations were entertained of the boat that was built here on the + iron frame brought all the way from Harper’s Ferry, Virginia. The frame + was covered with dressed skins of buffalo and elk, the seams being coated + with a composition of powdered charcoal and beeswax, in default of tar or + pitch. This craft was well named the “Experiment,” and a disappointing + experiment it proved to be. Here is Captain Lewis’ account of her failure: + </p> + <p> + “The boat having now become sufficiently dry, we gave her a coat of the + composition, which after a proper interval was repeated, and the next + morning, Tuesday, July 9th, she was launched into the water, and swam + perfectly well. The seats were then fixed and the oars fitted; but after + we had loaded her, as well as the canoes, and were on the point of setting + out, a violent wind caused the waves to wet the baggage, so that we were + forced to unload the boats. The wind continued high until evening, when to + our great disappointment we discovered that nearly all the composition had + separated from the skins and left the seams perfectly exposed; so that the + boat now leaked very much. To repair this misfortune without pitch is + impossible, and as none of that article is to be procured, we therefore, + however reluctantly, are obliged to abandon her, after having had so much + labor in the construction. We now saw that the section of the boat covered + with buffalo-skins on which hair had been left answered better than the + elk-skins, and leaked but little; while that part which was covered with + hair about one-eighth of an inch retained the composition perfectly, and + remained sound and dry. From this we perceived that had we employed + buffalo instead of elk skins, not singed them so closely as we did, and + carefully avoided cutting the leather in sewing, the boat would have been + sufficient even with the present composition; or had we singed instead of + shaving the elk-skins, we might have succeeded. But we discovered our + error too late; the buffalo had deserted us, and the travelling season was + so fast advancing that we had no time to spare for experiments; therefore, + finding that she could be no longer useful, she was sunk in the water, so + as to soften the skins, and enable us the more easily to take her to + pieces. + </p> + <p> + “It now became necessary to provide other means for transporting the + baggage which we had intended to stow in her. For this purpose we shall + want two more canoes; but for many miles—from below the mouth of the + Musselshell River to this place—we have not seen a single tree fit + to be used in that way. The hunters, however, who have hitherto been sent + after timber, mention that there is a low ground on the opposite side of + the river, about eight miles above us by land, and more than twice that + distance by water, in which we may probably find trees large enough for + our purposes. Captain Clark determined, therefore, to set out by land for + that place with ten of the best workmen, who would be occupied in building + the canoes till the rest of the party, after taking the boat to pieces, + and making the necessary deposits, should transport the baggage, and join + them with the other six canoes. + </p> + <p> + “He accordingly passed over to the opposite side of the river with his + party next day, and proceeded on eight miles by land, the distance by + water being twenty-three and three quarter miles. Here he found two + cottonwood trees; but, on cutting them down, one proved to be hollow, + split at the top in falling, and both were much damaged at the bottom. He + searched the neighborhood, but could find none which would suit better, + and therefore was obliged to make use of those which he had felled, + shortening them in order to avoid the cracks, and supplying the deficiency + by making them as wide as possible. They were equally at a loss for wood + of which they might make handles for their axes, the eyes of which not + being round, they were obliged to split the timber in such a manner that + thirteen of the handles broke in the course of the day, though made of the + best wood they could find for the purpose, which was the chokecherry. + </p> + <p> + “The rest of the party took the frame of the boat to pieces, deposited it + in a cache or hole, with a draught of the country from Fort Mandan to this + place, and also some other papers and small articles of less importance.” + </p> + <p> + High winds prevented the party from making rapid progress, and + notwithstanding the winds they were greatly troubled with mosquitoes. Lest + the reader should think the explorers too sensitive on the subject of + these troublesome pests, it should be said that only western travellers + can realize the numbers and venom of the mosquitoes of that region. Early + emigrants across the continent were so afflicted by these insects that the + air at times seemed full of gray clouds of them. It was the custom of the + wayfarers to build a “smudge,” as it was called, a low, smouldering fire + of green boughs and brush, the dense smoke from which (almost as annoying + as the mosquitoes) would drive off their persecutors as long, as the + victims sat in the smoke. The sleeping tent was usually cleared in this + way before “turning in” at night, every opening of the canvas being + afterwards closed. + </p> + <p> + Captain Lewis, on the thirteenth of July, followed Captain Clark up the + river; crossing the stream to the north bank, with his six canoes and all + his baggage, he overtook the other party on the same day and found them + all engaged in boat-building. + </p> + <p> + “On his way he passed a very large Indian lodge, which was probably + designed as a great council-house; but it differed in its construction + from all that we had seen, lower down the Missouri or elsewhere. The form + of it was a circle two hundred and sixteen feet in circumference at the + base; it was composed of sixteen large cottonwood poles about fifty feet + long and at their thicker ends, which touched the ground, about the size + of a man’s body. They were distributed at equal distances, except that one + was omitted to the cast, probably for the entrance. From the circumference + of this circle the poles converged toward the centre, where they were + united and secured by large withes of willow-brush. There was no covering + over this fabric, in the centre of which were the remains of a large fire, + and around it the marks of about eighty leathern lodges. He also saw a + number of turtle-doves, and some pigeons, of which he shot one, differing + in no respect from the wild pigeon of the United States. . . .” + </p> + <p> + “The buffalo have not yet quite gone, for the hunters brought in three, in + very good order. It requires some diligence to supply us plentifully, for + as we reserve our parched meal for the Rocky Mountains, where we do not + expect to find much game, our principal article of food is meat, and the + consumption of the whole thirty-two persons belonging to the party amounts + to four deer, an elk and a deer, or one buffalo, every twenty-four hours. + The mosquitoes and gnats persecute us as violently as below, so that we + can get no sleep unless defended by biers (nets), with which we are all + provided. We here found several plants hitherto unknown to us, of which we + preserved specimens.” + </p> + <p> + On the fourteenth of July, the boats were finally launched, and next day + the journal records this important event: + </p> + <p> + “We rose early, embarked all our baggage on board the canoes, which, + though eight in number, are heavily loaded, and at ten o’clock set out on + our journey. . . . At the distance of seven and a half miles we came to + the lower point of a woodland, at the entrance of a beautiful river, + which, in honor of the Secretary of the Navy, we called Smith’s River. + This stream falls into a bend on the south side of the Missouri, and is + eighty yards wide. As far as we could discern its course, it wound through + a charming valley towards the southeast, in which many herds of buffalo + were feeding, till, at the distance of twenty-five miles, it entered the + Rocky Mountains and was lost from our view. . . . + </p> + <p> + “We find the prickly pear, one of the greatest beauties as well as + greatest inconveniences of the plains, now in full bloom. The sunflower, + too, a plant common on every part of the Missouri from its entrance to + this place, is here very abundant, and in bloom. The lamb’s-quarter, wild + cucumber, sand-rush, and narrow dock, are also common.” + </p> + <p> + The journal here records the fact that the great river had now become so + crooked that it was expedient to note only its general course, leaving out + all description of its turns and windings. The Missouri was now flowing + due north, leaving its bends out of account, and the explorers, ascending + the river, were therefore travelling south; and although the journal sets + forth “the north bank” and “the south bank,” it should be understood that + west is meant by the one, and east by the other. Buffalo were observed in + great numbers. Many obstacles to navigating the river were encountered. + Under date of July 17, the journal says: + </p> + <p> + “The navigation is now very laborious. The river is deep, but with little + current, and from seventy to one hundred yards wide; the low grounds are + very narrow, with but little timber, and that chiefly the aspen tree. The + cliffs are steep, and hang over the river so much that often we could not + cross them, but were obliged to pass and repass from one side of the river + to the other, in order to make our way. In some places the banks are + formed of dark or black granite rising perpendicularly to a great height, + through which the river seems, in the progress of time, to have worn its + channel. On these mountains we see more pine than usual, but it is still + in small quantities. Along the bottoms, which have a covering of high + grass, we observed the sunflower blooming in great abundance. The Indians + of the Missouri, more especially those who do not cultivate maize, make + great use of the seed of this plant for bread, or in thickening their + soup. They first parch and then pound it between two stones, until it is + reduced to a fine meal. Sometimes they add a portion of water, and drink + it thus diluted; at other times they add a sufficient proportion of + marrow-grease to reduce it to the consistency of common dough, and eat it + in that manner. This last composition we preferred to all the rest, and + thought it at that time a very palatable dish.” + </p> + <p> + They also feasted on a great variety of wild berries, purple, yellow, and + black currants, which were delicious and more pleasant to the palate than + those grown in their Virginia home-gardens; also service-berries, + popularly known to later emigrants as “sarvice-berries.” These grow on + small bushes, two or three feet high; and the fruit is purple-skinned, + with a white pulp, resembling a ripe gooseberry. + </p> + <p> + The journal, next day, has the following entry:— + </p> + <p> + “This morning early, before our departure, we saw a large herd of the + big-horned animals, which were bounding among the rocks on the opposite + cliff with great agility. These inaccessible spots secure them from all + their enemies, and their only danger is in wandering among these + precipices, where we would suppose it scarcely possible for any animal to + stand; a single false step would precipitate them at least five hundred + feet into the water. + </p> + <p> + “At one and one fourth miles we passed another single cliff on the left; + at the same distance beyond which is the mouth of a large river emptying + from the north. It is a handsome, bold, and clear stream, eighty yards + wide—that is, nearly as broad as the Missouri—with a rapid + current, over a bed of small smooth stones of various figures. The water + is extremely transparent; the low grounds are narrow, but possess as much + wood as those of the Missouri. The river has every appearance of being + navigable, though to what distance we cannot ascertain, as the country + which it waters is broken and mountainous. In honor of the Secretary of + War we called it Dearborn’s River.” + </p> + <p> + General Henry Dearborn, who was then Secretary of War, in Jefferson’s + administration, gave his name, a few years later, to a collection of camps + and log-cabins on Lake Michigan; and in due time Fort Dearborn became the + great city of Chicago. Continuing, the journal says: + </p> + <p> + “Being now very anxious to meet with the Shoshonees or Snake Indians, for + the purpose of obtaining the necessary information of our route, as well + as to procure horses, it was thought best for one of us to go forward with + a small party and endeavor to discover them, before the daily discharge of + our guns, which is necessary for our subsistence, should give them notice + of our approach. If by an accident they hear us, they will most probably + retreat to the mountains, mistaking us for their enemies, who usually + attack them on this side.” . . . . . . . . . + </p> + <p> + Captain Clark was now in the lead with a small party, and he came upon the + remains of several Indian camps formed of willow-brush, Traces of Indians + became more plentiful. The journal adds:— + </p> + <p> + “At the same time Captain Clark observed that the pine trees had been + stripped of their bark about the same season, which our Indian woman says + her countrymen do in order to obtain the sap and the soft parts of the + wood and bark for food. About eleven o’clock he met a herd of elk and + killed two of them; but such was the want of wood in the neighborhood that + he was unable to procure enough to make a fire, and was therefore obliged + to substitute the dung of the buffalo, with which he cooked his breakfast. + They then resumed their course along an old Indian road. In the afternoon + they reached a handsome valley, watered by a large creek, both of which + extended a considerable distance into the mountain. This they crossed, and + during the evening travelled over a mountainous country covered with sharp + fragments of flint rock; these bruised and cut their feet very much, but + were scarcely less troublesome than the prickly-pear of the open plains, + which have now become so abundant that it is impossible to avoid them, and + the thorns are so strong that they pierce a double sole of dressed + deer-skin; the best resource against them is a sole of buffalo-hide in + parchment (that is, hard dried). At night they reached the river much + fatigued, having passed two mountains in the course of the day, and + travelled thirty miles. Captain Clark’s first employment, on lighting a + fire, was to extract from his feet the thorns, which he found seventeen in + number.” + </p> + <p> + The dung of the buffalo, exposed for many years to the action of sun, + wind, and rain, became as dry and firm as the finest compressed hay. As + “buffalo chips,” in these treeless regions, it was the overland emigrants’ + sole dependence for fuel. + </p> + <p> + The explorers now approached a wonderful pass in the Rocky Mountains which + their journal thus describes: + </p> + <p> + “A mile and a half beyond this creek (Cottonwood Creek) the rocks approach + the river on both sides, forming a most sublime and extraordinary + spectacle. For five and three quarter miles these rocks rise + perpendicularly from the water’s edge to the height of nearly twelve + hundred feet. They are composed of a black granite near their base, but + from the lighter color above, and from the fragments, we suppose the upper + part to be flint of a yellowish brown and cream color. + </p> + <p> + “Nothing can be imagined more tremendous than the frowning darkness of + these rocks, which project over the river and menace us with destruction. + The river, one hundred and fifty yards in width, seems to have forced its + channel down this solid mass; but so reluctantly has it given way, that + during the whole distance the water is very deep even at the edges, and + for the first three miles there is not a spot, except one of a few yards, + in which a man could stand between the water and the towering + perpendicular of the mountain. The convulsion of the passage must have + been terrible, since at its outlet there are vast columns of rock torn + from the mountain, which are strewed on both sides of the river, the + trophies, as it were, of its victory. Several fine springs burst out from + the chasms of the rock, and contribute to increase the river, which has a + strong current, but, very fortunately, we were able to overcome it with + our oars, since it would have been impossible to use either the cord or + the pole. We were obliged to go on some time after dark, not being able to + find a spot large enough to encamp on; but at length, about two miles + above a small island in the middle of the river, we met with a place on + the left side, where we procured plenty of light wood and pitch pine. This + extraordinary range of rocks we called the Gates of the Rocky Mountains.” + </p> + <p> + Some of Captain Clark’s men, engaged in hunting, gave the alarm to roving + bands of Shoshonee Indians, hunting in that vicinity. The noise of their + guns attracted the attention of the Indians, who, having set fire to the + grass as a warning to their comrades, fled to the mountains. The whole + country soon appeared to have taken fright, and great clouds of smoke were + observed in all directions. Falling into an old Indian trail, Captain + Clark waited, with his weary and footsore men, for the rest of the party + to come up with them. + </p> + <p> + The explorers had now passed south, between the Big Belt range of + mountains on the cast and the main chain of the Rocky Mountains on the + west. Meagher County, Montana, now lies on the cast of their trail, and on + the west side of that route is the county of Lewis and Clark. They were + now—still travelling southward—approaching the ultimate + sources of the great Missouri. The journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “We are delighted to find that the Indian woman recognizes the country; + she tells us that to this creek her countrymen make excursions to procure + white paint on its banks, and we therefore call it Whiteearth Creek. She + says also that the Three Forks of the Missouri are at no great distance—a + piece of intelligence which has cheered the spirits of us all, as we hope + soon to reach the head of that river. This is the warmest day, except one, + we have experienced this summer. In the shade the mercury stood at eighty + degrees, which is the second time it has reached that height during this + season. We camped on an island, after making nineteen and three quarters + miles. + </p> + <p> + “In the course of the day we saw many geese, cranes, small birds common to + the plains, and a few pheasants. We also observed a small plover or curlew + of a brown color, about the size of a yellow-legged plover or jack-curlew, + but of a different species. It first appeared near the mouth of Smith’s + River, but is so shy and vigilant that we were unable to shoot it. Both + the broad and narrow-leaved willow continue, though the sweet willow has + become very scarce. The rosebush, small honeysuckle, pulpy-leaved thorn, + southernwood, sage, box-elder, narrow-leaved cottonwood, redwood, and a + species of sumach, are all abundant. So, too, are the red and black + gooseberries, service-berry, choke-cherry, and the black, yellow, red, and + purple currants, which last seems to be a favorite food of the bear. + Before camping we landed and took on board Captain Clark, with the meat he + had collected during this day’s hunt, which consisted of one deer and an + elk; we had, ourselves, shot a deer and an antelope.” + </p> + <p> + The party found quantities of wild onions of good flavor and size. They + also observed wild flax, garlic, and other vegetable products of value. + The journal adds:— + </p> + <p> + “We saw many otter and beaver to-day (July 24th). The latter seem to + contribute very much to the number of islands, and the widening of the + river. They begin by damming up the small channels of about twenty yards + between the islands: this obliges the river to seek another outlet, and, + as soon as this is effected, the channel stopped by the beaver becomes + filled with mud and sand. The industrious animal is then driven to another + channel, which soon shares the same fate, till the river spreads on all + sides, and cuts the projecting points of the land into islands. We killed + a deer, and saw great numbers of antelopes, cranes, some geese, and a few + red-headed ducks. The small birds of the plains and the curlew are still + abundant: we saw a large bear, but could not come within gunshot of him. + There are numerous tracks of the elk, but none of the animals themselves; + and, from the appearance of bones and old excrement, we suppose that + buffalo sometimes stray into the valley, though we have as yet seen no + recent sign of them. Along the water are a number of snakes, some of a + uniform brown color, others black, and a third speckled on the abdomen, + and striped with black and a brownish yellow on the back and sides. The + first, which is the largest, is about four feet long; the second is of the + kind mentioned yesterday; and the third resembles in size and appearance + the garter-snake of the United States. On examining the teeth of all these + several kinds, we found them free from poison: they are fond of the water, + in which they take shelter on being pursued. The mosquitoes, gnats, and + prickly pear, our three persecutors, still continue with us, and, joined + with the labor of working the canoes, have fatigued us all excessively.” + </p> + <p> + On Thursday, July 25, Captain Clark, who was in the lead, as usual, + arrived at the famous Three Forks of the Missouri. The stream flowing in a + generally northeastern direction was the true, or principal Missouri, and + was named the Jefferson. The middle branch was named the Madison, in honor + of James Madison, then Secretary of State, and the fork next to the + eastward received the name of Albert Gallatin, then Secretary of the + Treasury; and by these titles the streams are known to this day. The + explorers had now passed down to their furthest southern limit, their + trail being to the eastward of the modern cities of Helena and Butte, and + separated only by a narrow divide (then unknown to them) from the sources + of some of the streams that fall into the Pacific Ocean. Under the date of + July 27, the journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “We are now very anxious to see the Snake Indians. After advancing for + several hundred miles into this wild and mountainous country, we may soon + expect that the game will abandon us. With no information of the route, we + may be unable to find a passage across the mountains when we reach the + head of the river—at least, such a pass as will lead us to the + Columbia. Even are we so fortunate as to find a branch of that river, the + timber which we have hitherto seen in these mountains does not promise us + any fit to make canoes, so that our chief dependence is on meeting some + tribe from whom we may procure horses. Our consolation is that this + southwest branch can scarcely head with any other river than the Columbia; + and that if any nation of Indians can live in the mountains we are able to + endure as much as they can, and have even better means of procuring + subsistence.” + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0012" id="link2HCH0012"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XII — At the Sources of the Missouri + </h2> + <p> + The explorers were now (in the last days of July, 1805) at the head of the + principal sources of the great Missouri River, in the fastnesses of the + Rocky Mountains, at the base of the narrow divide that separates Idaho + from Montana in its southern corner. Just across this divide are the + springs that feed streams falling into the majestic Columbia and then to + the Pacific Ocean. As has been already set forth, they named the Three + Forks for President Jefferson and members of his cabinet. These names + still survive, although Jefferson River is the true Missouri and not a + fork of that stream. Upon the forks of the Jefferson Lewis bestowed the + titles of Philosophy, Wisdom, and Philanthropy, each of these gifts and + graces being, in his opinion, “an attribute of that illustrious personage, + Thomas Jefferson,” then President of the United States. But alas for the + fleeting greatness of geographical honor! Philosophy River is now known as + Willow Creek, and at its mouth, a busy little railroad town, is Willow + City. The northwest fork is no longer Wisdom, but Big Hole River; deep + valleys among the mountains are known as holes; and the stream called by + that name, once Wisdom, is followed along its crooked course by a railroad + that connects Dillon, Silver Bow, and Butte City, Montana. Vulgarity does + its worst for Philanthropy; its modern name on the map is Stinking Water. + </p> + <p> + On the thirtieth of July, the party, having camped long enough to unpack + and dry their goods, dress their deerskins and make them into leggings and + moccasins, reloaded their canoes and began the toilsome ascent of the + Jefferson. The journal makes this record:— + </p> + <p> + “Sacajawea, our Indian woman, informs us that we are encamped on the + precise spot where her countrymen, the Snake Indians, had their huts five + years ago, when the Minnetarees of Knife River first came in sight of + them, and from whom they hastily retreated three miles up the Jefferson, + and concealed themselves in the woods. The Minnetarees, however, pursued + and attacked them, killed four men, as many women, and a number of boys; + and made prisoners of four other boys and all the females, of whom + Sacajawea was one. She does not, however, show any distress at these + recollections, nor any joy at the prospect of being restored to her + country; for she seems to possess the folly, or the philosophy, of not + suffering her feelings to extend beyond the anxiety of having plenty to + eat and a few trinkets to wear. + </p> + <p> + “This morning the hunters brought in some fat deer of the long-tailed red + kind, which are quite as large as those of the United States, and are, + indeed, the only kind we have found at this place. There are numbers of + the sand-hill cranes feeding in the meadows: we caught a young one of the + same color as the red deer, which, though it had nearly attained its full + growth, could not fly; it is very fierce, and strikes a severe blow with + its beak. . . . + </p> + <p> + “Captain Lewis proceeded after dinner through an extensive low ground of + timber and meadow-land intermixed; but the bayous were so obstructed by + beaver-dams that, in order to avoid them, he directed his course toward + the high plain on the right. This he gained with some difficulty, after + wading up to his waist through the mud and water of a number of + beaver-dams. When he desired to rejoin the canoes he found the underbrush + so thick, and the river so crooked, that this, joined to the difficulty of + passing the beaver-dams, induced him to go on and endeavor to intercept + the river at some point where it might be more collected into one channel, + and approach nearer the high plain. He arrived at the bank about sunset, + having gone only six miles in a direct course from the canoes; but he saw + no traces of the men, nor did he receive any answer to his shouts and the + firing of his gun. It was now nearly dark; a duck lighted near him, and he + shot it. He then went on the head of a small island, where he found some + driftwood, which enabled him to cook his duck for supper, and laid down to + sleep on some willow-brush. The night was cool, but the driftwood gave him + a good fire, and he suffered no inconvenience, except from the + mosquitoes.” + </p> + <p> + The easy indifference to discomfort with which these well-seasoned + pioneers took their hardships must needs impress the reader. It was a + common thing for men, or for a solitary man, to be caught out of camp by + nightfall and compelled to bivouac, like Captain Lewis, in the underbrush, + or the prairie-grass. As they pressed on, game began to fail them. Under + date of July 31, they remark that the only game seen that day was one + bighorn, a few antelopes, deer, and a brown bear, all of which escaped + them. “Nothing was killed to-day,” it is recorded, “nor have we had any + fresh meat except one beaver for the last two days; so that we are now + reduced to an unusual situation, for we have hitherto always had a great + abundance of flesh.” Indeed, one reason for this is found in Captain + Lewis’s remark: “When we have plenty of fresh meat, I find it impossible + to make the men take any care of it, or use it with the least frugality, + though I expect that necessity will shortly teach them this art.” We shall + see, later on, that the men, who were really as improvident of food as the + Indians, had hard lessons from necessity. + </p> + <p> + Anxious to reach the Indians, who were believed to be somewhere ahead of + them, Captain Lewis and three men went on up the Jefferson, Captain Clark + and his party following with the canoes and luggage in a more leisurely + manner. The advance party were so fortunate as to overtake a herd of elk, + two of which they killed; what they did not eat they left secured for the + other party with the canoes. Clark’s men also had good luck in hunting, + for they killed five deer and one bighorn. Neither party found fresh + tracks of Indians, and they were greatly discouraged thereat. The journal + speaks of a beautiful valley, from six to eight miles wide, where they saw + ancient traces of buffalo occupation, but no buffalo. These animals had + now completely disappeared; they were seldom seen in those mountains. The + journal says of Lewis:— + </p> + <p> + “He saw an abundance of deer and antelope, and many tracks of elk and + bear. Having killed two deer, they feasted sumptuously, with a dessert of + currants of different colors—two species red, others yellow, deep + purple, and black; to these were added black gooseberries and deep purple + service-berries, somewhat larger than ours, from which they differ also in + color, size, and the superior excellence of their flavor. In the low + grounds of the river were many beaver-dams formed of willow-brush, mud, + and gravel, so closely interwoven that they resist the water perfectly; + some of them were five feet high, and caused the river to overflow several + acres of land.” + </p> + <p> + Meanwhile, the party with the canoes were having a fatiguing time as they + toiled up the river. On the fourth of August, after they had made only + fifteen miles, the journal has this entry:— + </p> + <p> + “The river is still rapid, and the water, though clear, is very much + obstructed by shoals or ripples at every two hundred or three hundred + yards. At all these places we are obliged to drag the canoes over the + stones, as there is not a sufficient depth of water to float them, and in + the other parts the current obliges us to have recourse to the cord. But + as the brushwood on the banks will not permit us to walk on shore, we are + under the necessity of wading through the river as we drag the boats. This + soon makes our feet tender, and sometimes occasions severe falls over the + slippery stones; and the men, by being constantly wet, are becoming more + feeble. In the course of the day the hunters killed two deer, some geese + and ducks, and the party saw some antelopes, cranes, beaver, and otter.” + </p> + <p> + Captain Lewis had left a note for Captain Clark at the forks of the + Jefferson and Wisdom rivers. Clark’s journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “We arrived at the forks about four o’clock, but, unluckily, Captain + Lewis’s note had been attached to a green pole, which the beaver had cut + down, and carried off with the note on it: an accident which deprived us + of all information as to the character of the two branches of the river. + Observing, therefore, that the northwest fork was most in our direction, + we ascended it. We found it extremely rapid, and its waters were scattered + in such a manner that for a quarter of a mile we were forced to cut a + passage through the willow-brush that leaned over the little channels and + united at the top. After going up it for a mile, we encamped on an island + which had been overflowed, and was still so wet that we were compelled to + make beds of brush to keep ourselves out of the mud. Our provision + consisted of two deer which had been killed in the morning.” + </p> + <p> + It should be borne in mind that this river, up which the party were making + their way, was the Wisdom (now Big Hole), and was the northwest fork of + the Jefferson, flowing from southeast to northwest; and near the point + where it enters the Jefferson, it has a loop toward the northeast; that is + to say, it comes from the southwest to a person looking up its mouth. + </p> + <p> + After going up the Wisdom River, Clark’s party were overtaken by Drewyer, + Lewis’s hunter, who had been sent across between the forks to notify Clark + that Lewis regarded the other fork—the main Jefferson—as the + right course to take. The party, accordingly, turned about and began to + descend the stream, in order to ascend the Jefferson. The journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “On going down, one of the canoes upset and two others filled with water, + by which all the baggage was wet and several articles were irrecoverably + lost. As one of them swung round in a rapid current, Whitehouse was thrown + out of her; while down, the canoe passed over him, and had the water been + two inches shallower would have crushed him to pieces; but he escaped with + a severe bruise of his leg. In order to repair these misfortunes we + hastened (down) to the forks, where we were joined by Captain Lewis. We + then passed over to the left (east) side, opposite the entrance of the + rapid fork, and camped on a large gravelly bar, near which there was + plenty of wood. Here we opened, and exposed to dry, all the articles which + had suffered from the water; none of them were completely spoiled except a + small keg of powder; the rest of the powder, which was distributed in the + different canoes, was quite safe, although it had been under the water for + upward of an hour. The air is indeed so pure and dry that any wood-work + immediately shrinks, unless it is kept filled with water; but we had + placed our powder in small canisters of lead, each containing powder + enough for the canister when melted into bullets, and secured with cork + and wax, which answered our purpose perfectly. . . .” + </p> + <p> + “In the evening we killed three deer and four elk, which furnished us once + more with a plentiful supply of meat. Shannon, the same man who had been + lost for fifteen days (August 28 to Sept. 11, 1804), was sent out this + morning to hunt, up the northwest fork. When we decided on returning, + Drewyer was directed to go in quest of him, but he returned with + information that he had gone several miles up the (Wisdom) river without + being able to find Shannon. We now had the trumpet sounded, and fired + several guns; but he did not return, and we fear he is again lost.” + </p> + <p> + This man, although an expert hunter, had an unlucky habit of losing + himself in the wilderness, as many another good man has lost himself among + the mountains or the great plains. This time, however, he came into camp + again, after being lost three days. + </p> + <p> + On the eighth of August the party reached a point now known by its famous + landmark, Beaver Head, a remarkable rocky formation which gives its name + to Beaverhead County, Montana. The Indian woman, Sacajawea, recognized the + so-called beaver-head, which, she said, was not far from the summer + retreat of her countrymen, living on the other side of the mountains. The + whole party were now together again, the men with the canoes having come + up; and the journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “Persuaded of the absolute necessity of procuring horses to cross the + mountains, it was determined that one of us should proceed in the morning + to the head of the river, and penetrate the mountains till he found the + Shoshonees or some other nation who can assist us in transporting our + baggage, the greater part of which we shall be compelled to leave without + the aid of horses.”. . . + </p> + <p> + Early the next day Captain Lewis took Drewyer, Shields, and M’Neal, and, + slinging their knapsacks, they set out with a resolution to meet some + nation of Indians before they returned, however long they might be + separated from the party. + </p> + <p> + The party in the canoes continued to ascend the river, which was so + crooked that they advanced but four miles in a direct line from their + starting-place in a distance of eleven miles. In this manner, the party on + foot leading those with the canoes, they repeatedly explored the various + forks of the streams, which baffled them by their turnings and windings. + Lewis was in the advance, and Clark brought up the rear with the main + body. It was found necessary for the leading party to wade the streams, + and occasionally they were compelled by the roughness of the way to leave + the water-course and take to the hills, where great vigilance was required + to keep them in sight of the general direction in which they must travel. + On the 11th of August, 1805, Captain Lewis came in sight of the first + Indian encountered since leaving the country of the Minnetarees, far back + on the Missouri. The journal of that date says: + </p> + <p> + “On examining him with the glass Captain Lewis saw that he was of a + different nation from any Indians we had hitherto met. He was armed with a + bow and a quiver of arrows, and mounted on an elegant horse without a + saddle; a small string attached to the under jaw answered as a bridle. + </p> + <p> + “Convinced that he was a Shoshonee, and knowing how much our success + depended on the friendly offices of that nation, Captain Lewis was full of + anxiety to approach without alarming him, and endeavor to convince him + that he (Lewis) was a white man. He therefore proceeded toward the Indian + at his usual pace. When they were within a mile of each other the Indian + suddenly stopped. Captain Lewis immediately followed his example, took his + blanket from his knapsack, and, holding it with both hands at the two + corners, threw it above his head, and unfolded it as he brought it to the + ground, as if in the act of spreading it. This signal, which originates in + the practice of spreading a robe or skin as a seat for guests to whom they + wish to show a distinguished kindness, is the universal sign of friendship + among the Indians on the Missouri and the Rocky Mountains. As usual, + Captain Lewis repeated this signal three times: still the Indian kept his + position, and looked with an air of suspicion on Drewyer and Shields, who + were now advancing on each side. Captain Lewis was afraid to make any + signal for them to halt, lest he should increase the distrust of the + Indian, who began to be uneasy, and they were too distant to hear his + voice. He therefore took from his pack some beads, a looking-glass, and a + few trinkets, which he had brought for the purpose, and, leaving his gun, + advanced unarmed towards the Indian. He remained in the same position till + Captain Lewis came within two hundred yards of him, when he turned his + horse and began to move off slowly. Captain Lewis then called out to him + in as loud a voice as he could, repeating the words tabba bone, which in + the Shoshonee language mean white man. But, looking over his shoulder, the + Indian kept his eyes on Drewyer and Shields, who were still advancing, + without recollecting the impropriety of doing so at such a moment, till + Captain Lewis made a signal to them to halt: this Drewyer obeyed, but + Shields did not observe it, and still went forward. Seeing Drewyer halt, + the Indian turned his horse about as if to wait for Captain Lewis, who now + reached within one hundred and fifty paces, repeating the words tabba + bone, and holding up the trinkets in his hand, at the same time stripping + up the sleeve of his shirt to show the color of his skin. The Indian + suffered him to advance within one hundred paces, then suddenly turned his + horse, and, giving him the whip, leaped across the creek, and disappeared + in an instant among the willow bushes: with him vanished all the hopes + which the sight of him had inspired, of a friendly introduction to his + countrymen.” + </p> + <p> + Sadly disappointed by the clumsy imprudence of his men, Captain Lewis now + endeavored to follow the track of the retreating Indian, hoping that this + might lead them to an encampment, or village, of the Shoshonees. He also + built a fire, the smoke of which might attract the attention of the + Indians. At the same time, he placed on a pole near the fire a small + assortment of beads, trinkets, awls, and paints, in order that the + Indians, if they returned that way, might discover them and be thereby + assured the strangers were white men and friends. Next morning, while + trying to follow the trail of the lone Indian, they found traces of + freshly turned earth where people had been digging for roots; and, later + on, they came upon the fresh track of eight or ten horses. But these were + soon scattered, and the explorers only found that the general direction of + the trails was up into the mountains which define the boundary between + Montana and Idaho. Skirting the base of these mountains (the Bitter Root), + the party endeavored to find a plain trail, or Indian road, leading up to + a practicable pass. Travelling in a southwesterly direction along the main + stream, they entered a valley which led into the mountains. Here they ate + their last bit of fresh meat, the remainder of a deer they had killed a + day or two before; they reserved for their final resort, in case of + famine, a small piece of salt pork. The journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “They then continued through the low bottom, along the main stream, near + the foot of the mountains on their right. For the first five miles, the + valley continues toward the southwest, being from two to three miles in + width; then the main stream, which had received two small branches from + the left in the valley, turned abruptly to the west through a narrow + bottom between the mountains. The road was still plain, and, as it led + them directly on toward the mountain, the stream gradually became smaller, + till, after going two miles, it had so greatly diminished in width that + one of the men, in a fit of enthusiasm, with one foot on each side of the + river, thanked God that he had lived to bestride the Missouri. As they + went along their hopes of soon seeing the Columbia (that is, the Pacific + watershed) arose almost to painful anxiety, when after four miles from the + last abrupt turn of the river (which turn had been to the west), they + reached a small gap formed by the high mountains, which recede on each + side, leaving room for the Indian road. From the foot of one of the lowest + of these mountains, which rises with a gentle ascent of about half a mile, + issues the remotest water of the Missouri. + </p> + <p> + “They had now reached the hidden sources of that river, which had never + yet been seen by civilized man. As they quenched their thirst at the + chaste and icy fountain—as they sat down by the brink of that little + rivulet, which yielded its distant and modest tribute to the parent ocean—they + felt themselves rewarded for all their labors and all their difficulties. + </p> + <p> + “They left reluctantly this interesting spot, and, pursuing the Indian + road through the interval of the hills, arrived at the top of a ridge, + from which they saw high mountains, partially covered with snow, still to + the west of them. + </p> + <p> + “The ridge on which they stood formed the dividing line between the waters + of the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. They followed a descent much steeper + than that on the eastern side, and at the distance of three-quarters of a + mile reached a handsome, bold creek of cold, clear water running to the + westward. They stopped to taste, for the first time, the waters of the + Columbia; and, after a few minutes, followed the road across steep hills + and low hollows, when they came to a spring on the side of a mountain. + Here they found a sufficient quantity of dry willow-brush for fuel, and + therefore halted for the night; and, having killed nothing in the course + of the day, supped on their last piece of pork, and trusted to fortune for + some other food to mix with a little flour and parched meal, which was all + that now remained of their provisions.” + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0013" id="link2HCH0013"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XIII — From the Minnetarees to the Shoshonees + </h2> + <p> + Travelling in a westerly direction, with a very gradual descent, Captain + Lewis, on the thirteenth of August, came upon two Indian women, a man, and + some dogs. The Indians sat down when the strangers first came in sight, as + if to wait for their coming; but, soon taking alarm, they all fled, much + to the chagrin of the white men. Now striking into a well-worn Indian + road, they found themselves surely near a village. The journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “They had not gone along the road more than a mile, when on a sudden they + saw three female Indians, from whom they had been concealed by the deep + ravines which intersected the road, till they were now within thirty paces + of each other. One of them, a young woman, immediately took to flight; the + other two, an elderly woman and a little girl, seeing they were too near + for them to escape, sat on the ground, and holding down their heads seemed + as if reconciled to the death which they supposed awaited them. The same + habit of holding down the head and inviting the enemy to strike, when all + chance of escape is gone, is preserved in Egypt to this day. + </p> + <p> + “Captain Lewis instantly put down his rifle, and advancing toward them, + took the woman by the hand, raised her up, and repeated the words ‘tabba + bone!’ at the same time stripping up his shirt-sleeve to prove that he was + a white man—for his hands and face had become by constant exposure + quite as dark as their own. She appeared immediately relieved from her + alarm; and Drewyer and Shields now coming up, Captain Lewis gave them some + beads, a few awls, pewter mirrors, and a little paint, and told Drewyer to + request the woman to recall her companion, who had escaped to some + distance and, by alarming the Indians, might cause them to attack him + without any time for explanation. She did as she was desired, and the + young woman returned almost out of breath. Captain Lewis gave her an equal + portion of trinkets, and painted the tawny checks of all three of them + with vermilion,—a ceremony which among the Shoshonees is emblematic + of peace. + </p> + <p> + “After they had become composed, he informed them by signs of his wishes + to go to their camp, in order to see their chiefs and warriors; they + readily obeyed, and conducted the party along the same road down the + river. In this way they marched two miles, when they met a troop of nearly + sixty warriors, mounted on excellent horses, riding at full speed toward + them. As they advanced Captain Lewis put down his gun, and went with the + flag about fifty paces in advance. The chief, who with two men was riding + in front of the main body, spoke to the women, who now explained that the + party was composed of white men, and showed exultingly the presents they + had received. The three men immediately leaped from their horses, came up + to Captain Lewis, and embraced him with great cordiality, putting their + left arm over his right shoulder, and clasping his back, applying at the + same time their left cheek to his, and frequently vociferating ah hi e! ah + hi e! ‘I am much pleased, I am much rejoiced.’ The whole body of warriors + now came forward, and our men received the caresses, and no small share of + the grease and paint, of their new friends. After this fraternal embrace, + of which the motive was much more agreeable than the manner, Captain Lewis + lighted a pipe, and offered it to the Indians, who had now seated + themselves in a circle around the party. But, before they would receive + this mark of friendship, they pulled off their moccasins: a custom, as we + afterward learned, which indicates the sacred sincerity of their + professions when they smoke with a stranger, and which imprecates on + themselves the misery of going barefoot forever if they prove faithless to + their words—a penalty by no means light for those who rove over the + thorny plains of this country. . . . + </p> + <p> + “After smoking a few pipes, some trifling presents were distributed among + them, with which they seemed very much pleased, particularly with the blue + beads and the vermilion. Captain Lewis then stated to the chief that the + object of his visit was friendly, and should be explained as soon as he + reached their camp; and that, as the sun was oppressive, and no water + near, he wished to go there as soon as possible. They now put on their + moccasins, and their chief, whose name was Cameahwait, made a short speech + to the warriors. Captain Lewis then gave him the flag, which he informed + him was among white men the emblem of peace; and, now that he had received + it, was to be in future the bond of union between them. The chief then + moved on; our party followed him; and the rest of the warriors, in a + squadron, brought up the rear.” + </p> + <p> + Arriving at the village, the ceremony of smoking the pipe of peace was + solemnly observed; and the women and children of the tribe were permitted + to gaze with wonder on the first white men they had ever seen. The Indians + were not much better provided with food than were their half-famished + visitors. But some cakes made of service-berries and choke-berries dried + in the sun were presented to the white men “on which,” says Captain Lewis, + “we made a hearty meal.” Later in the day, however, an Indian invited + Captain Lewis into his wigwam and treated him to a small morsel of boiled + antelope and a piece of fresh salmon roasted. This was the first salmon he + had seen, and the captain was now assured that he was on the headwaters of + the Columbia. This stream was what is now known as the Lemhi River. The + water was clear and limpid, flowing down a bed of gravel; its general + direction was a little north of west. The journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “The chief informed him that this stream discharged, at the distance of + half a day’s march, into another (Salmon River) of twice its size, coming + from the southwest; but added, on further inquiry, that there was scarcely + more timber below the junction of those rivers than in this neighborhood, + and that the river was rocky, rapid, and so closely confined between high + mountains that it was impossible to pass down it either by land or water + to the great lake (Pacific Ocean), where, as he had understood, the white + men lived. + </p> + <p> + “This information was far from being satisfactory, for there was no timber + here that would answer the purpose of building canoes,—indeed not + more than just sufficient for fuel; and even that consisted of the + narrow-leaved cottonwood, the red and the narrow-leaved willow, + chokecherry, service-berry, and a few currant bushes, such as are common + on the Missouri. The prospect of going on by land is more pleasant, for + there are great numbers of horses feeding in every direction round the + camp, which will enable us to transport our stores, if necessary, over the + mountains.” + </p> + <p> + While Captain Lewis was thus engaged, his companions in the canoes were + slowly and laboriously ascending the river on the other side of the + divide. The character of the stream was much as it had been for several + days, and the men were in the water three-fourths of the time, dragging + the boats over the shoals. They had but little success in killing game, + but caught, as they had done for some days before, numbers of fine trout. + </p> + <p> + “August 14. In order to give time for the boats to reach the forks of + Jefferson River,” proceeds the narrative, “Captain Lewis determined to + remain where he was, and obtain all the information he could collect in + regard to the country. Having nothing to eat but a little flour and + parched meal, with the berries of the Indians, he sent out Drewyer and + Shields, who borrowed horses from the natives, to hunt for a few hours. + About the same time the young warriors set out for the same purpose. There + are but few elk or black tailed deer in this neighborhood; and as the + common red deer secrete themselves in the bushes when alarmed, they are + soon safe from the arrows, which are but feeble weapons against any + animals which the huntsmen cannot previously run down with their horses. + The chief game of the Shoshonees, therefore, is the antelope, which, when + pursued, retreats to the open plains, where the horses have full room for + the chase. But such is its extraordinary fleetness and wind, that a single + horse has no possible chance of outrunning it or tiring it down, and the + hunters are therefore obliged to resort to stratagem. + </p> + <p> + “About twenty Indians, mounted on fine horses, and armed with bows and + arrows, left the camp. In a short time they descried a herd of ten + antelope: they immediately separated into little squads of two or three, + and formed a scattered circle round the herd for five or six miles, + keeping at a wary distance, so as not to alarm them till they were + perfectly enclosed, and selecting, as far as possible, some commanding + eminence as a stand. Having gained their positions, a small party rode + towards the animals, and with wonderful dexterity the huntsmen preserved + their seats, and the horses their footing, as they ran at full speed over + the hills, down the steep ravines, and along the borders of the + precipices. They were soon outstripped by the antelopes, which, on gaining + the other extremity of the circle, were driven back and pursued by the + fresh hunters. They turned and flew, rather than ran, in another + direction; but there, too, they found new enemies. In this way they were + alternately pursued backward and forward, till at length, notwithstanding + the skill of the hunters, they all escaped and the party, after running + for two hours, returned without having caught anything, and their horses + foaming with sweat. This chase, the greater part of which was seen from + the camp, formed a beautiful scene; but to the hunters it is exceedingly + laborious, and so unproductive, even when they are able to worry the + animal down and shoot him, that forty or fifty hunters will sometimes be + engaged for half a day without obtaining more than two or three antelope. + </p> + <p> + “Soon after they returned, our two huntsmen came in with no better + success. Captain Lewis therefore made a little paste with the flour, and + the addition of some berries formed a very palatable repast. Having now + secured the good will of Cameahwait, Captain Lewis informed him of his + wish that he would speak to the warriors, and endeavor to engage them to + accompany him to the forks of Jefferson River; where by this time another + chief (Clark), with a large party of white men, was awaiting his (Lewis’) + return; that it would be necessary to take about thirty horses to + transport the merchandise; that they should be well rewarded for their + trouble; and that, when all the party should have reached the Shoshonee + camp, they would remain some time among them to trade for horses, as well + as concert plans for furnishing them in future with regular supplies of + merchandise. He readily consented to do so, and after collecting the tribe + together, he made a long harangue. In about an hour and a half he + returned, and told Captain Lewis that they would be ready to accompany him + in the morning.” + </p> + <p> + But the Indians were suspicious and reluctant to take the word of the + white man. Captain Lewis, almost at his wits’ end, appealed to their + courage. He said that if they were afraid of being led into a trap, he was + sure that some among them were not afraid. + </p> + <p> + “To doubt the courage of an Indian is to touch the tenderest string of his + mind, and the surest way to rouse him to any dangerous achievement. + Cameahwait instantly replied that he was not afraid to die, and mounting + his horse, for the third time harangued the warriors. He told them that he + was resolved to go if he went alone, or if he were sure of perishing; that + he hoped there were among those who heard him some who were not afraid to + die, and who would prove it by mounting their horses and following him. + This harangue produced an effect on six or eight only of the warriors, who + now joined their chief. With these Captain Lewis smoked a pipe; and then, + fearful of some change in their capricious temper, set out immediately.” + </p> + <p> + The party now retraced the steps so lately taken by Captain Lewis and his + men. On the second day out, one of the spies sent forward by the Indians + came madly galloping back, much to the alarm of the white men. It proved, + however, that the spy had returned to tell his comrades that one of the + white hunters (Drewyer) had killed a deer. An Indian riding behind Captain + Lewis, fearful that he should not get his share of the spoil, jumped off + the horse and ran for a mile at full speed. The journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “Captain Lewis slackened his pace, and followed at a sufficient distance + to observe them. When they reached the place where Drewyer had thrown out + the intestines, they all dismounted in confusion and ran tumbling over + each other like famished dogs. Each tore away whatever part he could, and + instantly began to eat it. Some had the liver, some the kidneys—in + short, no part on which we are accustomed to look with disgust escaped + them. One of them, who had seized about nine feet of the entrails, was + chewing at one end, while with his hand he was diligently clearing his way + by discharging the contents at the other. It was indeed impossible to see + these wretches ravenously feeding on the filth of animals, the blood + streaming from their mouths, without deploring how nearly the condition of + savages approaches that of the brute creation. Yet, though suffering with + hunger, they did not attempt, as they might have done, to take by force + the whole deer, but contented themselves with what had been thrown away by + the hunter. Captain Lewis now had the deer skinned, and after reserving a + quarter of it gave the rest of the animal to the chief, to be divided + among the Indians, who immediately devoured nearly the whole of it without + cooking. They now went toward the (Prairie) creek, where there was some + brushwood to make a fire, and found Drewyer, who had killed a second deer. + The same struggle for the entrails was renewed here, and on giving nearly + the whole deer to the Indians, they devoured it even to the soft part of + the hoofs. A fire being made, Captain Lewis had his breakfast, during + which Drewyer brought in a third deer. This too, after reserving + one-quarter, was given to the Indians, who now seemed completely satisfied + and in good humor.” + </p> + <p> + They now approached the forks of the Jefferson, where they had expected to + meet Clark and his party with the canoes. Not seeing any signs of them, + the Lewis party were placed in a critical position. The Indians were again + alarmed and suspicious. Here Captain Clark’s journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “As they went on towards the point, Captain Lewis, perceiving how critical + his situation had become, resolved to attempt a stratagem, which his + present difficulty seemed completely to justify. Recollecting the notes he + had left at the point for us, he sent Drewyer for them with an Indian, who + witnessed his taking them from the pole. When they were brought, Captain + Lewis told Cameahwait that, on leaving his brother chief at the place + where the river issues from the mountains, it was agreed that the boats + should not be brought higher than the next forks we should meet; but that, + if the rapid water prevented the boats from coming on as fast as they + expected, his brother chief was to send a note to the first forks above + him, to let him know where they were: that this note had been left this + morning at the forks, and mentioned that the canoes were just below the + mountains, and coming up slowly in consequence of the current. Captain + Lewis added that he would stay at the forks for his brother chief, but + would send a man down the river; and that if Cameahwait doubted what he + said, one of their young men could go with him, while he and the other two + remained at the forks. This story satisfied the chief and the greater part + of the Indians; but a few did not conceal their suspicions, observing that + we told different stories, and complaining that their chief exposed them + to danger by a mistaken confidence. Captain Lewis now wrote, by the light + of some willow-brush, a note to Captain Clark, which he gave to Drewyer, + with an order to use all possible expedition in descending the river, and + engaged an Indian to accompany him by the promise of a knife and some + beads. + </p> + <p> + “At bedtime the chief and five others slept round the fire of Captain + Lewis, and the rest hid themselves in different parts of the willow-brush + to avoid the enemy, who, they feared, would attack them in the night. + Captain Lewis endeavored to assume a cheerfulness he did not feel, to + prevent the despondency of the savages. After conversing gayly with them + he retired to his mosquito-bier, by the side of which the chief now placed + himself. He lay down, yet slept but little, being in fact scarcely less + uneasy than his Indian companions. He was apprehensive that, finding the + ascent of the river impracticable, Captain Clark might have stopped below + Rattlesnake bluff, and the messenger would not meet him. The consequence + of disappointing the Indians at this moment would most probably be that + they would retire and secrete themselves in the mountains, so as to + prevent our having an opportunity of recovering their confidence. They + would also spread a panic through all the neighboring Indians, and cut us + off from the supply of horses so useful and almost so essential to our + success. He was at the same time consoled by remembering that his hopes of + assistance rested on better foundations than their generosity—their + avarice and their curiosity. He had promised liberal exchanges for their + horses; but what was still more seductive, he had told them that one of + their countrywomen, who had been taken with the Minnetarees, accompanied + the party below; and one of the men had spread the report of our having + with us a man (York) perfectly black, whose hair was short and curled. + This last account had excited a great degree of curiosity, and they seemed + more desirous of seeing this monster than of obtaining the most favorable + barter for their horses.” + </p> + <p> + On the following day, August 17, the two parties of explorers finally met. + Under that date the journal has this interesting entry:— + </p> + <p> + “Captain Lewis rose very early and despatched Drewyer and the Indian down + the river in quest of the boats. Shields was sent out at the same time to + hunt, while M’Neal prepared a breakfast out of the remainder of the meat. + Drewyer had been gone about two hours, and the Indians were all anxiously + waiting for some news, when an Indian, who had straggled a short distance + down the river, returned with a report that he had seen the white men, who + were only a short distance below, and were coming on. The Indians were + transported with joy, and the chief, in the warmth of his satisfaction, + renewed his embrace to Captain Lewis, who was quite as much delighted as + the Indians themselves. The report proved most agreeably true. + </p> + <p> + “On setting out at seven o’clock, Captain Clark, with Chaboneau and his + wife, walked on shore; but they had not gone more than a mile before + Captain Clark saw Sacajawea, who was with her husband one hundred yards + ahead, begin to dance and show every mark of the most extravagant joy, + turning round to him and pointing to several Indians, whom he now saw + advancing on horseback, sucking her fingers at the same time, to indicate + that they were of her native tribe. As they advanced, Captain Clark + discovered among them Drewyer dressed like an Indian, from whom he learned + the situation of the party. While the boats were performing the circuit, + he went toward the forks with the Indians, who, as they went along, sang + aloud with the greatest appearance of delight. + </p> + <p> + “We soon drew near the camp, and just as we approached it a woman made her + way through the crowd toward Sacajawea; recognizing each other, they + embraced with the most tender affection. The meeting of these two young + women had in it something peculiarly touching, not only from the ardent + manner in which their feelings were expressed, but also from the real + interest of their situation. They had been companions in childhood; in the + war with the Minnetarees they had both been taken prisoners in the same + battle; they had shared and softened the rigors of their captivity till + one of them had escaped from their enemies with scarce a hope of ever + seeing her friend rescued from their hands. + </p> + <p> + “While Sacajawea was renewing among the women the friendships of former + days, Captain Clark went on, and was received by Captain Lewis and the + chief, who, after the first embraces and salutations were over, conducted + him to a sort of circular tent or shade of willows. Here he was seated on + a white robe; and the chief immediately tied in his hair six small shells + resembling pearls, an ornament highly valued by these people, who procure + them in the course of trade from the seacoast. The moccasins of the whole + party were then taken off, and, after much ceremony, the smoking began. + After this the conference was to be opened; and, glad of an opportunity of + being able to converse more intelligibly, Sacajawea was sent for: she came + into the tent, sat down, and was beginning to interpret, when in the + person of Cameahwait she recognized her brother. She instantly jumped up, + and ran and embraced him, throwing over him her blanket, and weeping + profusely: the chief was himself moved, though not in the same degree. + After some conversation between them she resumed her seat, and attempted + to interpret for us; but her new situation seemed to overpower her, and + she was frequently interrupted by her tears. After the council was + finished, the unfortunate woman learned that all her family were dead + except two brothers, one of whom was absent, and a son of her eldest + sister, a small boy, who was immediately adopted by her.” + </p> + <p> + The two parties, Indian and white, now went into a conference, the white + chiefs explaining that it would be needful for their Indian friends to + collect all their horses and help to transport the goods of the explorers + over the Great Divide. The journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “The speech made a favorable impression. The chief, in reply, thanked us + for our expressions of friendship toward himself and his nation, and + declared their willingness to render us every service. He lamented that it + would be so long before they should be supplied with firearms, but that + till then they could subsist as they had heretofore done. He concluded by + saying that there were not horses enough here to transport our goods, but + that he would return to the village to-morrow, bring all his own horses, + and encourage his people to come over with theirs. The conference being + ended to our satisfaction, we now inquired of Cameahwait what chiefs were + among the party, and he pointed out two of them. We then distributed our + presents: to Cameahwait we gave a medal of small size, with the likeness + of President Jefferson, and on the reverse a figure of hands clasped with + a pipe and tomahawk; to this was added an uniform coat, a shirt, a pair of + scarlet leggings, a carrot (or twist) of tobacco, and some small articles. + Each of the other chiefs received a small medal struck during the + presidency of General Washington, a shirt, handkerchief, leggings, knife, + and some tobacco. Medals of the same sort were also presented to two young + warriors, who, though not chiefs, were promising youths and very much + respected in the tribe. These honorary gifts were followed by presents of + paint, moccasins, awls, knives, beads, and looking-glasses. We also gave + them all a plentiful meal of Indian corn, of which the hull is taken off + by being boiled in lye; as this was the first they had ever tasted, they + were very much pleased with it. They had, indeed, abundant sources of + surprise in all they saw—the appearance of the men, their arms, + their clothing, the canoes, the strange looks of the negro, and the + sagacity of our dog, all in turn shared their admiration, which was raised + to astonishment by a shot from the air-gun. This operation was instantly + considered ‘great medicine,’ by which they, as well as the other Indians, + mean something emanating directly from the Great Spirit, or produced by + his invisible and incomprehensible agency. . . . + </p> + <p> + “After the council was over we consulted as to our future operations. The + game did not promise to last here for many days; and this circumstance + combined with many others to induce our going on as soon as possible. Our + Indian information as to the state of the Columbia was of a very alarming + kind; and our first object was, of course, to ascertain the practicability + of descending it, of which the Indians discouraged our expectations. It + was therefore agreed that Captain Clark should set off in the morning with + eleven men, furnished, besides their arms, with tools for making canoes: + that he should take Chaboneau and his wife to the camp of the Shoshonees, + where he was to leave them, in order to hasten the collection of horses; + that he should then lead his men down to the Columbia, and if he found it + navigable, and the timber in sufficient quantity, begin to build canoes. + As soon as he had decided as to the propriety of proceeding down the + Columbia or across the mountains, he was to send back one of the men with + information of it to Captain Lewis, who by that time would have brought up + the whole party, and the rest of the baggage, as far as the Shoshonee + village. Preparations were accordingly made at once to carry out the + arrangement. . . .” + </p> + <p> + “In order to relieve the men of Captain Clark’s party from the heavy + weight of their arms, provisions, and tools, we exposed a few articles to + barter for horses, and soon obtained three very good ones, in exchange for + which we gave a uniform coat, a pair of leggings, a few handkerchiefs, + three knives, and some other small articles, the whole of which did not, + in the United States, cost more than twenty dollars; a fourth was + purchased by the men for an old checkered shirt, a pair of old leggings, + and a knife. The Indians seemed to be quite as well pleased as ourselves + at the bargain they had made. We now found that the two inferior chiefs + were somewhat displeased at not having received a present equal to that + given to the great chief, who appeared in a dress so much finer than their + own. To allay their discontent, we bestowed on them two old coats, and + promised them if they were active in assisting us across the mountains + they should have an additional present. This treatment completely + reconciled them, and the whole Indian party, except two men and two women, + set out in perfect good humor to return to their home with Captain Clark.” + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0014" id="link2HCH0014"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XIV — Across the Great Divide + </h2> + <p> + Captain Clark had now left the water-shed of the Missouri behind him, and + was pressing on, over a broken, hilly country, to the lands from which + issue the tributaries of the Columbia. The Indian village which Captain + Lewis had previously visited had been removed two miles up the stream on + which it was situated, and was reached by Clark on August 20. The party + was very ceremoniously received by Chief Cameahwait, and all hands began + to explain to the white men the difficulties of the situation. How to + transport the canoes and baggage over the mountains to some navigable + stream leading into the Columbia was now the serious problem. The Indian + chief and his old men dwelt on the obstacles in the way and argued that it + was too late in the season to make the attempt. They even urged the white + men to stay with them until another spring, when Indian guides would be + furnished them to proceed on their journey westward. + </p> + <p> + On the twenty-first, Clark passed the junction of two streams, the Salmon + and the Lemhi, which is now the site of Salmon City, Idaho. As Captain + Lewis was the first white man who had seen these waters, Clark gave to the + combined water-course the name of Lewis’ River. The mountains here assumed + a formidable aspect, and the stream was too narrow, rapid, and rock-bound + to admit of navigation. The journal says of Captain Clark:— + </p> + <p> + “He soon began to perceive that the Indian accounts had not been + exaggerated. At the distance of a mile he passed a small creek (on the + right), and the points of four mountains, which were rocky, and so high + that it seemed almost impossible to cross them with horses. The road lay + over the sharp fragments of rocks which had fallen from the mountains, and + were strewed in heaps for miles together; yet the horses, altogether + unshod, travelled across them as fast as the men, without detaining them a + moment. They passed two bold running streams, and reached the entrance of + a small river, where a few Indian families resided, who had not been + previously acquainted with the arrival of the whites; the guide was + behind, and the woods were so thick that we came upon them unobserved, + till at a very short distance. As soon as they saw us the women and + children fled in great consternation; the men offered us everything they + had—the fish on the scaffolds, the dried berries, and the collars of + elks’ tushes worn by the children. We took only a small quantity of the + food, and gave them in return some small articles which conduced very much + to pacify them. The guide now coming up, explained to them who we were and + the object of our visit, which seemed to relieve their fears; still a + number of the women and children did not recover from their fright, but + cried during our stay, which lasted about an hour. The guide, whom we + found a very intelligent, friendly old man, informed us that up this river + there was a road which led over the mountains to the Missouri.” + </p> + <p> + To add to their difficulties, game had almost entirely disappeared, and + the abundant fish in the river could not be caught for lack of proper + fishing-tackle. Timber from which canoes could be made, there was none, + and the rapids in the rivers were sharp and violent. With his Indian guide + and three men, Captain Clark now pressed on his route of survey, leaving + the remainder of his men behind to hunt and fish. He went down the Salmon + River about fifty-two miles, making his way as best he could along its + banks. Finding the way absolutely blocked for their purposes, Captain + Clark returned on the twenty-fifth of August and rejoined the party that + he had left behind. These had not been able to kill anything, and for a + time starvation stared them in the face. Under date of August 27, the + journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “The men, who were engaged last night in mending their moccasins, all + except one, went out hunting, but no game was to be procured. One of the + men, however, killed a small salmon, and the Indians made a present of + another, on which the whole party made a very slight breakfast. These + Indians, to whom this life is familiar, seem contented, although they + depend for subsistence on the scanty productions of the fishery. But our + men, who are used to hardships, but have been accustomed to have the first + wants of nature regularly supplied, feel very sensibly their wretched + situation; their strength is wasting away; they begin to express their + apprehensions of being without food in a country perfectly destitute of + any means of supporting life, except a few fish. In the course of the day + an Indian brought into the camp five salmon, two of which Captain Clark + bought and made a supper for the party.” + </p> + <p> + Two days later, Captain Clark and his men joined the main party, having + met the only repulse that was suffered by the expedition from first to + last. Eluding the vigilance of the Indians, caches, or hiding-places, for + the baggage were constructed, filled, and concealed, the work being done + after dark. The weather was now very cold, although August had not passed. + Ink froze in the pen during the night, and the meadows were white with + frost; but the days were warm, even hot. + </p> + <p> + In the absence of Captain Clark, his colleague and party had been visited + by Cameahwait and about fifty of his band, with their women and children. + Captain Lewis’ journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “After they had camped near us and turned loose their horses, we called a + council of all the chiefs and warriors, and addressed them in a speech. + Additional presents were then distributed, particularly to the two second + chiefs, who had, agreeably to their promises, exerted themselves in our + favor. The council was then adjourned, and all the Indians were treated + with an abundant meal of boiled Indian corn and beans. The poor wretches, + who had no animal food and scarcely anything but a few fish, had been + almost starved, and received this new luxury with great thankfulness. Out + of compliment to the chief, we gave him a few dried squashes, which we had + brought from the Mandans, and he declared it was the best food he had ever + tasted except sugar, a small lump of which he had received from his sister + Sacajawea. He now declared how happy they should all be to live in a + country which produced so many good things; and we told him that it would + not be long before the white men would put it in their power to live below + the mountains, where they might themselves cultivate all these kinds of + food, instead of wandering in the mountains. He appeared to be much + pleased with this information, and the whole party being now in excellent + temper after their repast, we began our purchase of horses. We soon + obtained five very good ones, on very reasonable terms—that is, by + giving for each horse merchandise which cost us originally about $6. We + have again to admire the perfect decency and propriety of the Indians; for + though so numerous, they do not attempt to crowd round our camp or take + anything which they see lying about, and whenever they borrow knives or + kettles or any other article from the men, they return them with great + fidelity.” + </p> + <p> + Captain Lewis anxiously wished to push on to meet Clark, who, as we have + seen, was then far down on the Salmon River. Lewis was still at the forks + of Jefferson River, it should be borne in mind; and their objective point + was the upper Shoshonee village on the Lemhi River, across the divide. + While on the way over the divide, Lewis was greatly troubled by the freaks + of the Indians, who, regardless of their promises, would propose to return + to the buffalo country on the eastern side of the mountains. Learning that + Cameahwait and his chiefs had sent a messenger over to the Lemhi to notify + the village to come and join an expedition of this sort, Captain Lewis was + dismayed. His journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “Alarmed at this new caprice of the Indians, which, if not counteracted, + threatened to leave ourselves and our baggage on the mountains, or even if + we reached the waters of the Columbia, to prevent our obtaining horses to + go on further, Captain Lewis immediately called the three chiefs together. + After smoking a pipe he asked them if they were men of their word, and if + we could rely on their promises. They readily answered in the affirmative. + He then asked if they had not agreed to assist us in carrying our baggage + over the mountains. To this they also answered yes. ‘Why, then,’ said he, + ‘have you requested your people to meet us to-morrow where it will be + impossible for us to trade for horses, as you promised we should? If,’ he + continued, ‘you had not promised to help us in transporting our goods over + the mountains, we should not have attempted it, but have returned down the + river; after which no white men would ever have come into your country. If + you wish the whites to be your friends, to bring you arms, and to protect + you from your enemies, you should never promise what you do not mean to + perform. When I first met you, you doubted what I said, yet you afterward + saw that I told you the truth. How, therefore, can you doubt what I now + tell you? You see that I divide amongst you the meat which my hunters + kill, and I promise to give all who assist us a share of whatever we have + to eat. If, therefore, you intend to keep your promise, send one of the + young men immediately, to order the people to remain at the village till + we arrive.’ The two inferior chiefs then said that they had wished to keep + their word and to assist us; that they had not sent for the people, but on + the contrary had disapproved of that measure, which was done wholly by the + first chief. Cameahwait remained silent for some time; at last he said + that he knew he had done wrong, but that, seeing his people all in want of + provisions, he had wished to hasten their departure for the country where + their wants might be supplied. He, however, now declared that, having + passed his word, he would never violate it, and counter-orders were + immediately sent to the village by a young man, to whom we gave a + handkerchief in order to ensure despatch and fidelity. . . . + </p> + <p> + “This difficulty being now adjusted, our march was resumed with an unusual + degree of alacrity on the part of the Indians. We passed a spot where, six + years ago, the Shoshonees had suffered a very severe defeat from the + Minnetarees; and late in the evening we reached the upper part of the + cove, where the creek enters the mountains. The part of the cove on the + northeast side of the creek has lately been burned, most probably as a + signal on some occasion. Here we were joined by our hunters with a single + deer, which Captain Lewis gave, as a proof of his sincerity, to the women + and children, and remained supperless himself. As we came along we + observed several large hares, some ducks, and many of the cock of the + plains: in the low grounds of the cove were also considerable quantities + of wild onions.” + </p> + <p> + Arriving at the Shoshonee village on the Lemhi, Captain Lewis found a note + from Captain Clark, sent back by a runner, informing him of the difficulty + and impossibility of a water route to the Columbia. Cameahwait, being told + that his white friends would now need twenty more horses, said that he + would do what he could to help them. The journal here adds:— + </p> + <p> + “In order not to lose the present favorable moment, and to keep the + Indians as cheerful as possible, the violins were brought out and our men + danced, to the great diversion of the Indians. This mirth was the more + welcome because our situation was not precisely that which would most + dispose us to gayety; for we have only a little parched corn to eat, and + our means of subsistence or of success depend on the wavering temper of + the natives, who may change their minds to-morrow. . . . + </p> + <p> + “The Shoshonees are a small tribe of the nation called the Snake Indians, + a vague appellation, which embraces at once the inhabitants of the + southern parts of the Rocky Mountains and of the plains on either side. + The Shoshonees with whom we now were amount to about one hundred warriors, + and three times that number of women and children. Within their own + recollection they formerly lived in the plains, but they have been driven + into the mountains by the Pahkees, or the roving Indians of the + Sascatchawan, and are now obliged to visit occasionally, and by stealth, + the country of their ancestors. Their lives, indeed, are migratory. From + the middle of May to the beginning of September they reside on the + headwaters of the Columbia, where they consider themselves perfectly + secure from the Pahkees, who have never yet found their way to that + retreat. During this time they subsist chiefly on salmon, and, as that + fish disappears on the approach of autumn, they are driven to seek + subsistence elsewhere. They then cross the ridge to the waters of the + Missouri, down which they proceed slowly and cautiously, till they are + joined near the Three Forks by other bands, either of their own nation or + of the Flatheads, with whom they associate against the common enemy. Being + now strong in numbers, they venture to hunt the buffalo in the plains + eastward of the mountains, near which they spend the winter, till the + return of the salmon invites them to the Columbia. But such is their + terror of the Pahkees, that, so long as they can obtain the scantiest + subsistence, they do not leave the interior of the mountains; and, as soon + as they have collected a large stock of dried meat, they again retreat, + thus alternately obtaining their food at the hazard of their lives, and + hiding themselves to consume it. + </p> + <p> + “In this loose and wandering life they suffer the extremes of want; for + two thirds of the year they are forced to live in the mountains, passing + whole weeks without meat, and with nothing to eat but a few fish and + roots. Nor can anything be imagined more wretched than their condition at + the present time, when the salmon is fast retiring, when roots are + becoming scarce, and they have not yet acquired strength to hazard an + encounter with their enemies. So insensible are they, however, to these + calamities, that the Shoshonees are not only cheerful, but even gay; and + their character, which is more interesting than that of any Indians we + have seen, has in it much of the dignity of misfortune. In their + intercourse with strangers they are frank and communicative; in their + dealings they are perfectly fair; nor have we, during our stay with them, + had any reason to suspect that the display of all our new and valuable + wealth has tempted them into a single act of dishonesty. While they have + generally shared with us the little they possess, they have always + abstained from begging anything from us. With their liveliness of temper, + they are fond of gaudy dresses and all sorts of amusements, particularly + games of hazard; and, like most Indians, delight in boasting of their + warlike exploits, either real or fictitious. In their conduct towards us + they have been kind and obliging; and though on one occasion they seemed + willing to neglect us, yet we scarcely knew how to blame the treatment by + which we were to suffer, when we recollected how few civilized chiefs + would have hazarded the comforts or the subsistence of their people for + the sake of a few strangers. . . . . . . . . . + </p> + <p> + “As war is the chief occupation, bravery is the first virtue among the + Shoshonees. None can hope to be distinguished without having given proofs + of it, nor can there be any preferment or influence among the nation, + without some warlike achievement. Those important events which give + reputation to a warrior, and entitle him to a new name, are: killing a + white (or grizzly) bear, stealing individually the horses of the enemy, + leading a party who happen to be successful either in plundering horses or + destroying the enemy, and lastly, scalping a warrior. These acts seem of + nearly equal dignity, but the last, that of taking an enemy’s scalp, is an + honor quite independent of the act of vanquishing him. To kill your + adversary is of no importance unless the scalp is brought from the field + of battle; were a warrior to slay any number of his enemies in action, and + others were to obtain the scalps or first touch the dead, they would have + all the honors, since they have borne off the trophy. . . .” + </p> + <p> + “The names of these Indians vary in the course of their life. Originally + given in childhood, from the mere necessity of distinguishing objects, or + from some accidental resemblance to external objects, the young warrior is + impatient to change it by some achievement of his own. Any important event—the + stealing of horses, the scalping of an enemy, or the killing of a brown + bear—entitles him at once to a new name, which he then selects for + himself, and it is confirmed by the nation. Sometimes the two names + subsist together; thus, the chief Cameahwait, which means ‘One Who Never + Walks,’ has the war-name of Tooettecone, or ‘Black Gun,’ which he acquired + when he first signalized himself. As each new action gives a warrior a + right to change his name, many of them have several in the course of their + lives. To give to a friend one’s own name is an act of high courtesy, and + a pledge, like that of pulling off the moccasin, of sincerity and + hospitality. The chief in this way gave his name to Captain Clark when he + first arrived, and he was afterward known among the Shoshonees by the name + of Cameahwait.” + </p> + <p> + On the thirtieth of August, the whole expedition being now reunited, and a + sufficient number of horses having been purchased of the Shoshonees, the + final start across the mountains was begun. The journal says: + </p> + <p> + “The greater part of the band, who had delayed their journey on our + account, were also ready to depart. We took leave of the Shoshonees, who + set out on their visit to the Missouri at the same time that we, + accompanied by the old guide, his four sons, and another Indian, began the + descent of the Lemhi River, along the same road which Captain Clark had + previously pursued. After riding twelve miles we camped on the south bank + of this river, and as the hunters had brought in three deer early in the + morning, we did not feel the want of provisions.” + </p> + <p> + Three days later, all the Indians, except the old guide, left them. They + now passed up Fish Creek, and finding no track leading over the mountains + they cut their way. Their journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “This we effected with much difficulty; the thickets of trees and brush + through which we were obliged to cut our way required great labor; the + road itself was over the steep and rocky sides of the hills, where the + horses could not move without danger of slipping down, while their feet + were bruised by the rocks and stumps of trees. Accustomed as these animals + were to this kind of life, they suffered severely; several of them fell to + some distance down the sides of the hills, some turned over with the + baggage, one was crippled, and two gave out, exhausted with fatigue. After + crossing the creek several times we at last made five miles, with great + fatigue and labor, and camped on the left side of the creek in a small + stony low ground. It was not, however, till after dark that the whole + party was collected; and then, as it rained and we had killed nothing, we + passed an uncomfortable night. The party had been too busily occupied with + the horses to make any hunting excursion; and though, as we came along + Fish Creek, we saw many beaver-dams, we saw none of the animals + themselves.” + </p> + <p> + The Indian guide appears here to have lost his way; but, not dismayed, he + pushed on through a trackless wilderness, sometimes travelling on the snow + that now covered the mountains. On the fourth of September, the party came + upon a large encampment of Indians, who received them with much ceremony. + The journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “September 5, we assembled the chiefs and warriors, and informed them who + we were, and the purpose for which we had visited their country. All this + was, however, conveyed to them through so many different languages, that + it was not comprehended without difficulty. We therefore proceeded to the + more intelligible language of presents, and made four chiefs by giving a + medal and a small quantity of tobacco to each. We received in turn from + the principal chief a present consisting of the skins of a blaireau + (badger), an otter, and two antelopes, and were treated by the women to + some dried roots and berries. We then began to traffic for horses, and + succeeded in exchanging seven and purchasing eleven, for which we gave a + few articles of merchandise. + </p> + <p> + “This encampment consists of thirty-three tents, in which were about four + hundred souls, among whom eighty were men. They are called Ootlashoots, + and represent themselves as one band of a nation called Tushepaws, a + numerous people of four hundred and fifty tents, residing on the + head-waters of the Missouri and Columbia rivers, and some of them lower + down the latter river. In person these Indians are stout, and their + complexion lighter than that common among Indians. The hair of the men is + worn in queues of otter skin, falling in front over the shoulders. A shirt + of dressed skin covers the body to the knee, and over this is worn + occasionally a robe. To these are added leggings and moccasins. The women + suffer their hair to fall in disorder over the face and shoulders, and + their chief article of covering is a long shirt of skin, reaching down to + the ankles, and tied round the waist. In other respects, as also in the + few ornaments which they possess, their appearance is similar to that of + the Shoshonees: there is, however, a difference between the languages of + these two people, which is still farther increased by the very + extraordinary pronunciation of the Ootlashoots. Their words have all a + remarkably guttural sound, and there is nothing which seems to represent + the tone of their speaking more exactly than the clucking of a fowl or the + noise of a parrot. This peculiarity renders their voices scarcely audible, + except at a short distance; and, when many of them are talking, forms a + strange confusion of sounds. The common conversation that we overheard + consisted of low, guttural sounds, occasionally broken by a low word or + two, after which it would relapse, and could scarcely be distinguished. + They seemed kind and friendly, and willingly shared with us berries and + roots, which formed their sole stock of provisions. Their only wealth is + their horses, which are very fine, and so numerous that this party had + with them at least five hundred.” + </p> + <p> + These Indians were on their way to join the other bands who were hunting + buffalo on the Jefferson River, across the Great Divide. They set out the + next morning, and the explorers resumed their toilsome journey, travelling + generally in a northwesterly direction and looking for a pass across the + Bitter Root Mountains. Very soon, all indications of game disappeared, + and, September 14, they were forced to kill a colt, their stock of animal + food being exhausted. They pressed on, however, through a savage + wilderness, having frequent need to recur to horse-flesh. Here is an entry + under date of September 18, in the journal: “We melted some snow, and + supped on a little portable soup, a few canisters of which, with about + twenty pounds’ weight of bear’s oil, are our only remaining means of + subsistence. Our guns are scarcely of any service, for there is no living + creature in these mountains, except a few small pheasants, a small species + of gray squirrel, and a blue bird of the vulture kind, about the size of a + turtle-dove, or jay. Even these are difficult to shoot.” + </p> + <p> + “A bold running creek,” up which Captain Clark passed on September 19, was + appropriately named by him “Hungry Creek,” as at that place they had + nothing to eat. But, at about six miles’ distance from the head of the + stream, “he fortunately found a horse, on which he breakfasted, and hung + the rest on a tree for the party in the rear.” This was one of the wild + horses, strayed from Indian bands, which they found in the wilderness, too + wild to be caught and used, but not too wild to shoot and eat. Later, on + the same day, this entry is made in the journal: + </p> + <p> + “The road along the creek is a narrow rocky path near the borders of very + high precipices, from which a fall seems almost inevitable destruction. + One of our horses slipped and rolled over with his load down the hillside, + which was nearly perpendicular and strewed with large irregular rocks, + nearly one hundred yards, and did not stop till he fell into the creek. We + all expected he was killed, but to our astonishment, on taking off his + load he rose, seemed but little injured, and in twenty minutes proceeded + with his load. Having no other provision, we took some portable soup, our + only refreshment during the day. This abstinence, joined with fatigue, has + a visible effect on our health. The men are growing weak and losing their + flesh very fast; several are afflicted with dysentery, and eruptions of + the skin are very common.” + </p> + <p> + Next day, the party descended the last of the Bitter Root range and + reached level country. They were at last over the Great Divide. Three + Indian boys were discovered hiding in the grass, in great alarm. Captain + Clark at once dismounted from his horse, and, making signs of amity, went + after the boys. He calmed their terrors, and, giving them some bits of + ribbon, sent them home. + </p> + <p> + “Soon after the boys reached home, a man came out to meet the party, with + great caution; but he conducted them to a large tent in the village, and + all the inhabitants gathered round to view with a mixture of fear and + pleasure these wonderful strangers. The conductor now informed Captain + Clark, by signs, that the spacious tent was the residence of the great + chief, who had set out three days ago with all the warriors to attack some + of their enemies toward the southwest; that he would not return before + fifteen or eighteen days, and that in the mean time there were only a few + men left to guard the women and children. They now set before them a small + piece of buffalo-meat, some dried salmon, berries, and several kinds of + roots. Among these last is one which is round, much like an onion in + appearance, and sweet to the taste. It is called quamash, and is eaten + either in its natural state, or boiled into a kind of soup, or made into a + cake, which is then called pasheco. After the long abstinence this was a + sumptuous treat. They returned the kindness of the people by a few small + presents, and then went on in company with one of the chiefs to a second + village in the same plain, at the distance of two miles. Here the party + were treated with great kindness, and passed the night. The hunters were + sent out, but, though they saw some tracks of deer, were not able to + procure anything.” + </p> + <p> + The root which the Indians used in so many ways is now known as camas; it + is still much sought for by the Nez Perces and other wandering tribes in + the Northwest, and Camas Prairie, in that region, derives its name from + the much-sought-for vegetable. + </p> + <p> + Captain Clark and his men stayed with these hospitable Indians several + days. The free use of wholesome food, to which he had not lately been + accustomed, made Clark very ill, and he contented himself with staying in + the Indian villages, of which there were two. These Indians called + themselves Chopunnish, or Pierced Noses; this latter name is now more + commonly rendered <i>Nez Perces</i>, the French voyageurs having given it + that translation into their own tongue. But these people, so far as known, + did not pierce their noses. After sending a man back on the trail to + notify Captain Lewis of his progress, Captain Clark went on to the village + of Chief Twisted-hair. Most of the women and children, though notified of + the coming of the white man, were so scared by the appearance of the + strangers that they fled to the woods. The men, however, received them + without fear and gave them a plentiful supply of food. They were now on + one of the upper branches of the Kooskooskee River, near what is the site + of Pierce City, county seat of Shoshonee County, Idaho. The Indians + endeavored, by means of signs, to explain to their visitors the geography + of the country beyond. + </p> + <p> + “Among others, Twisted-hair drew a chart of the river on a white elk-skin. + According to this, the Kooskooskee forks (confluence of its North fork) a + few miles from this place; two days toward the south is another and larger + fork (confluence of Snake River), on which the Shoshonee or Snake Indians + fish; five days’ journey further is a large river from the northwest (that + is, the Columbia itself) into which Clark’s River empties; from the mouth + of that river (that is, confluence of the Snake with the Columbia) to the + falls is five days’ journey further; on all the forks as well as on the + main river great numbers of Indians reside.” + </p> + <p> + On the twenty-third of September, Captain Lewis and his party having come + up, the white men assembled the Indians and explained to them where they + came from and what was their errand across the continent. The Indians + appeared to be entirely satisfied, and they sold their visitors as much + provisions as their half-famished horses could carry. The journal here + says:— + </p> + <p> + “All around the village the women are busily employed in gathering and + dressing the pasheco-root, of which large quantities are heaped in piles + over the plain. We now felt severely the consequence of eating heartily + after our late privations. Captain Lewis and two of the men were taken + very ill last evening; to-day he could hardly sit on his horse, while + others were obliged to be put on horseback, and some, from extreme + weakness and pain, were forced to lie down alongside of the road for some + time. At sunset we reached the island where the hunters had been left on + the 22d. They had been unsuccessful, having killed only two deer since + that time, and two of them were very sick. A little below this island is a + larger one on which we camped, and administered Rush’s pills to the sick.” + </p> + <p> + The illness of the party continued for several days, and not much progress + was made down-stream. Having camped, on the twenty-seventh of September, + in the Kooskooskee River, at a place where plenty of good timber was + found, preparations for building five canoes were begun. From this time to + the fifth of October, all the men capable of labor were employed in + preparing the canoes. The health of the party gradually recruited, though + they still suffered severely from want of food; and, as the hunters had + but little success in procuring game, they were obliged on the second to + kill one of their horses. Indians from different quarters frequently + visited them, but all that could be obtained from them was a little fish + and some dried roots. This diet was not only unnutritious, but in many + cases it caused dysentery and nausea. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0015" id="link2HCH0015"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XV — Down the Pacific Slope + </h2> + <p> + The early days of October were spent in making preparations for the + descent of the river,—the Kooskooskee. Here they made their canoes, + and they called their stopping-place Canoe Camp. This was at the junction + of the north fork of the river with the main stream; and all below that + point is called the Lower Kooskooskee, while that above is known as the + upper river. The latitude of the camp, according to the journal of the + explorers, was 46'0 34’ 56” north. Here they buried in a cache their + saddles, horse-gear, and a small supply of powder and musket balls for + possible emergencies. The Kooskooskee, it should be borne in mind, is now + better known as the Clearwater; it empties into the Snake River, and that + into the Columbia. As far as the explorers knew the water-course down + which they were to navigate, they called it Clark’s River, in honor of + Captain Clark. But modern geographers have displaced the name of that + eminent explorer and map-maker and have divided the stream, or streams, + with other nomenclature. + </p> + <p> + On the eighth of October the party set out on their long water journey in + five canoes, one of which was a small craft intended to go on ahead and + pilot the way (which, of course, was unknown) for the four larger ones, in + which travelled the main party with their luggage. They met with disaster + very soon after their start, one of the canoes having struck a rock, which + made a hole in its side and caused the sinking of the craft. Fortunately, + no lives were lost, but the voyage was interrupted. The party went ashore + and did not resume their journey until their luggage was dried and the + canoe repaired. On the ninth, says the journal:— + </p> + <p> + “The morning was as usual cool; but as the weather both yesterday and + to-day was cloudy, our merchandise dried but slowly. The boat, though much + injured, was repaired by ten o’clock so as to be perfectly fit for + service; but we were obliged to remain during the day till the articles + were sufficiently dry to be reloaded. The interval we employed in + purchasing fish for the voyage, and conversing with the Indians. In the + afternoon we were surprised at hearing that our old Shoshonee guide and + his son had left us and had been seen running up the river several miles + above. As he had never given any notice of his intention, nor had even + received his pay for guiding us, we could not imagine the cause of his + desertion; nor did he ever return to explain his conduct. We requested the + chief to send a horseman after him to request that he would return and + receive what we owed him. From this, however, he dissuaded us, and said + very frankly that his nation, the Chopunnish, would take from the old man + any presents that he might have on passing their camp. The Indians came + about our camp at night, and were very gay and good-humored with the men. + Among other exhibitions was that of a squaw who appeared to be crazy. She + sang in a wild, incoherent manner, and offered to the spectators all the + little articles she possessed, scarifying herself in a horrid manner if + anyone refused her present. She seemed to be an object of pity among the + Indians, who suffered her to do as she pleased without interruption.” + </p> + <p> + The river was full of rapids and very dangerous rocks and reefs, and the + voyagers were able to make only twenty miles a day for some distance along + the stream. At the confluence of the Kooskooskee and the Snake River they + camped for the night, near the present site of Lewiston, Idaho. This city, + first settled in May, 1861, and incorporated in 1863, was named for + Captain Lewis of our expedition. From this point the party crossed over + into the present State of Washington. Of their experience at their camp + here the journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “Our arrival soon attracted the attention of the Indians, who flocked in + all directions to see us. In the evening the Indian from the falls, whom + we had seen at Rugged rapid, joined us with his son in a small canoe, and + insisted on accompanying us to the falls. Being again reduced to fish and + roots, we made an experiment to vary our food by purchasing a few dogs, + and after having been accustomed to horse-flesh, felt no disrelish for + this new dish. The Chopunnish have great numbers of dogs, which they + employ for domestic purposes, but never eat; and our using the flesh of + that animal soon brought us into ridicule as dog-eaters.” + </p> + <p> + When Fremont and his men crossed the continent to California, in 1842, + they ate the flesh of that species of marmot which we know as the + prairie-dog. Long afterwards, when Fremont was a candidate for the office + of President of the United States, this fact was recalled to the minds of + men, and the famous explorer was denounced as “a dog-eater.” + </p> + <p> + The journal of the explorers gives this interesting account of the Indians + among whom they now found themselves:— + </p> + <p> + “The Chopunnish or Pierced-nose nation, who reside on the Kooskooskee and + Lewis’ (Snake) rivers, are in person stout, portly, well-looking men; the + women are small, with good features and generally handsome, though the + complexion of both sexes is darker than that of the Tushepaws. In dress + they resemble that nation, being fond of displaying their ornaments. The + buffalo or elk-skin robe decorated with beads; sea-shells, chiefly + mother-of-pearl, attached to an otter-skin collar and hung in the hair, + which falls in front in two cues; feathers, paints of different kinds, + principally white, green, and light blue, all of which they find in their + own country; these are the chief ornaments they use. In the winter they + wear a short skirt of dressed skins, long painted leggings and moccasins, + and a plait of twisted grass round the neck. The dress of the women is + more simple, consisting of a long shirt of argalia (argali) or ibex + (bighorn) skin, reaching down to the ankles, without a girdle; to this are + tied little pieces of brass, shells, and other small articles; but the + head is not at all ornamented. + </p> + <p> + “The Chopunnish have very few amusements, for their life is painful and + laborious; all their exertions are necessary to earn even their precarious + subsistence. During the summer and autumn they are busily occupied in + fishing for salmon and collecting their winter store of roots. In winter + they hunt the deer on snow-shoes over the plains, and toward spring cross + the mountains to the Missouri for the purpose of rafficking for + buffalo-robe. The inconveniences of their comfortless life are increased + by frequent encounters with their enemies from the west, who drive them + over the mountains with the loss of their horses, and sometimes the lives + of many of the nation.” + </p> + <p> + After making a short stage on their journey, October 11, the party stopped + to trade with the Indians, their stock of provisions being low. They were + able to purchase a quantity of salmon and seven dogs. They saw here a + novel kind of vapor bath which is thus described in the journal:— + </p> + <p> + “While this traffic was going on we observed a vapor bath or + sweating-house, in a different form from that used on the frontier of the + United States or in the Rocky Mountains. It was a hollow square six or + eight feet deep, formed in the river bank by damming up with mud the other + three sides and covering the whole completely, except an aperture about + two feet wide at the top. The bathers descend by this hole, taking with + them a number of heated stones and jugs of water; after being seated round + the room they throw the water on the stones till the steam becomes of a + temperature sufficiently high for their purposes. The baths of the Indians + in the Rocky Mountains are of different sizes, the most common being made + of mud and sticks like an oven, but the mode of raising the steam is + exactly the same. Among both these nations it is very uncommon for a man + to bathe alone; he is generally accompanied by one or sometimes several of + his acquaintances; indeed, it is so essentially a social amusement, that + to decline going in to bathe when invited by a friend is one of the + highest indignities which can be offered to him. The Indians on the + frontier generally use a bath which will accommodate only one person, + formed of a wicker-work of willows about four feet high, arched at the + top, and covered with skins. In this the patient sits, till by means of + the heated stones and water he has perspired sufficiently. Almost + universally these baths are in the neighborhood of running water, into + which the Indians plunge immediately on coming out of the vapor bath, and + sometimes return again and subject themselves to a second perspiration. + This practice is, however, less frequent among our neighboring nations + than those to the westward. This bath is employed either for pleasure or + for health, and is used indiscriminately for all kinds of diseases.” + </p> + <p> + The expedition was now on the Snake River, making all possible speed + toward the Columbia, commonly known to the Indians as “The Great River.” + The stream was crowded with dangerous rapids, and sundry disasters were + met with by the way; thus, on the fourteenth of October, a high wind + blowing, one of the canoes was driven upon a rock sidewise and filled with + water. The men on board got out and dragged the canoe upon the rock, where + they held her above water. Another canoe, having been unloaded, was sent + to the relief of the shipwrecked men, who, after being left on the rock + for some time, were taken off without any other loss than the bedding of + two of them. But accidents like this delayed the party, as they were + forced to land and remain long enough to dry the goods that had been + exposed to the water. Several such incidents are told in the journal of + the explorers. Few Indians were to be seen along the banks of the river, + but occasionally the party came to a pile of planks and timbers which were + the materials from which were built the houses of such Indians as came + here in the fishing season to catch a supply for the winter and for + trading purposes. Occasionally, the complete scarcity of fuel compelled + the explorers to depart from their general rule to avoid taking any Indian + property without leave; and they used some of these house materials for + firewood, with the intent to pay the rightful owners, if they should ever + be found. On the sixteenth of October, they met with a party of Indians, + of whom the journal gives this account:— + </p> + <p> + “After crossing by land we halted for dinner, and whilst we were eating + were visited by five Indians, who came up the river on foot in great + haste. We received them kindly, smoked with them, and gave them a piece of + tobacco to smoke with their tribe. On receiving the present they set out + to return, and continued running as fast as they could while they remained + in sight. Their curiosity had been excited by the accounts of our two + chiefs, who had gone on in order to apprise the tribes of our approach and + of our friendly disposition toward them. After dinner we reloaded the + canoes and proceeded. We soon passed a rapid opposite the upper point of a + sandy island on the left, which has a smaller island near it. At three + miles is a gravelly bar in the river; four miles beyond this the Kimooenim + (Snake) empties into the Columbia, and at its mouth has an island just + below a small rapid. + </p> + <p> + “We halted above the point of junction, on the Kimooenim, to confer with + the Indians, who had collected in great numbers to receive us. On landing + we were met by our two chiefs, to whose good offices we were indebted for + this reception, and also the two Indians who had passed us a few days + since on horseback; one of whom appeared to be a man of influence, and + harangued the Indians on our arrival. After smoking with the Indians, we + formed a camp at the point where the two rivers unite, near to which we + found some driftwood, and were supplied by our two old chiefs with the + stalks of willows and some small bushes for fuel. + </p> + <p> + “We had scarcely fixed the camp and got the fires prepared, when a chief + came from the Indian camp about a quarter of a mile up the Columbia, at + the head of nearly two hundred men. They formed a regular procession, + keeping time to the music, or, rather, noise of their drums, which they + accompanied with their voices; and as they advanced, they ranged + themselves in a semicircle around us, and continued singing for some time. + We then smoked with them all, and communicated, as well as we could by + signs, our friendly intentions towards every nation, and our joy at + finding ourselves surrounded by our children. After this we proceeded to + distribute presents among them, giving the principal chief a large medal, + a shirt, and a handkerchief; to the second chief, a medal of a smaller + size; and to a third, who had come down from some of the upper villages, a + small medal and a handkerchief. This ceremony being concluded, they left + us; but in the course of the afternoon several of them returned, and + remained with us till a late hour. After they had dispersed, we proceeded + to purchase provisions, and were enabled to collect seven dogs, to which + some of the Indians added small presents of fish, and one of them gave us + twenty pounds of fat dried horse-flesh.” + </p> + <p> + The explorers were still in the country which is now the State of + Washington, at a point where the counties of Franklin, Yakima, and Walla + Walla come together, at the junction of the Snake and the Columbia. We + quote now from the journal:— + </p> + <p> + “From the point of junction the country is a continued plain, low near the + water, from which it rises gradually, and the only elevation to be seen is + a range of high country running from northeast to southwest, where it + joins a range of mountains from the southwest, and is on the opposite side + about two miles from the Columbia. There is on this plain no tree, and + scarcely any shrubs, except a few willow-bushes; even of smaller plants + there is not much more than the prickly-pear, which is in great abundance, + and is even more thorny and troublesome than any we have yet seen. During + this time the principal chief came down with several of his warriors, and + smoked with us. We were also visited by several men and women, who offered + dogs and fish for sale; but as the fish was out of season, and at present + abundant in the river, we contented ourselves with purchasing all the dogs + we could obtain. + </p> + <p> + “The nation among which we now are call themselves Sokulks; with them are + united a few of another nation, who reside on a western branch which + empties into the Columbia a few miles above the mouth of the latter river, + and whose name is Chimnapum. The languages of these two nations, of each + of which we obtained a vocabulary, differ but little from each other, or + from that of the Chopunnish who inhabit the Kooskooskee and Lewis’ rivers. + In their dress and general appearance they also much resemble those + nations; the men wearing a robe of deer- antelope-skin, under which a few + of them have a short leathern shirt. The most striking difference is among + the females, the Sokulk women being more inclined to corpulency than any + we have yet seen. Their stature is low, their faces are broad, and their + heads flattened in such a manner that the forehead is in a straight line + from the nose to the crown of the head. Their eyes are of a dirty sable, + their hair is coarse and black, and braided without ornament of any kind. + Instead of wearing, as do the Chopunnish, long leathern shirts highly + decorated with beads and shells, the Sokulk women have no other covering + but a truss or piece of leather tied round the hips, and drawn tight + between the legs. The ornaments usually worn by both sexes are large blue + or white beads, either pendant from their ears, or round the neck, wrists, + and arms; they have likewise bracelets of brass, copper, and horn, and + some trinkets of shells, fishbones, and curious feathers. + </p> + <p> + “The houses of the Sokulks are made of large mats of rushes, and are + generally of a square or oblong form, varying in length from fifteen to + sixty feet, and supported in the inside by poles or forks about six feet + high. The top is covered with mats, leaving a space of twelve or fifteen + inches the whole length of the house, for the purpose of admitting the + light and suffering the smoke to escape. The roof is nearly flat, which + seems to indicate that rains are not common in this open country; and the + house is not divided into apartments, the fire being in the middle of the + enclosure, and immediately under the bole in the roof. The interior is + ornamented with their nets, gigs, and other fishing-tackle, as well as the + bow of each inmate, and a large quiver of arrows, which are headed with + flint. + </p> + <p> + “The Sokulks seem to be of a mild and peaceable disposition, and live in a + state of comparative happiness. The men, like those on the Kimooenim, are + said to content themselves with a single wife, with whom the husband, we + observe, shares the labors of procuring subsistence much more than is + common among savages. What may be considered an unequivocal proof of their + good disposition, is the great respect which is shown to old age. Among + other marks of it, we noticed in one of the houses an old woman perfectly + blind, and who, we were told, had lived more than a hundred winters. In + this state of decrepitude, she occupied the best position in the house, + seemed to be treated with great kindness, and whatever she said was + listened to with much attention. They are by no means obtrusive; and as + their fisheries supply them with a competent, if not an abundant + subsistence, although they receive thankfully whatever we choose to give, + they do not importune us by begging. Fish is, indeed, their chief food, + except roots and casual supplies of antelope, which latter, to those who + have only bows and arrows, must be very scanty. This diet may be the + direct or the remote cause of the chief disorder which prevails among + them, as well as among the Flatheads on the Kooskooskee and Lewis’ rivers. + With all these Indians a bad soreness of the eyes is a very common + disorder, which is suffered to ripen by neglect, till many are deprived of + one of their eyes, and some have totally lost the use of both. This + dreadful calamity may reasonably, we think, be imputed to the constant + reflection of the sun on the waters, where they are constantly fishing in + the spring, summer, and fall, and during the rest of the year on the snows + of a country which affords no object to relieve the sight. + </p> + <p> + “Among the Sokulks, indeed among all the tribes whose chief subsistence is + fish, we have observed that bad teeth are very general; some have the + teeth, particularly those of the upper jaw, worn down to the gums, and + many of both sexes, even of middle age, have lost them almost entirely. + This decay of the teeth is a circumstance very unusual among Indians, + either of the mountains or the plains, and seems peculiar to the + inhabitants of the Columbia. We cannot avoid regarding as one principal + cause of it the manner in which they eat their food. The roots are + swallowed as they are dug from the ground, frequently covered with a + gritty sand; so little idea have they that this is offensive that all the + roots they offer us for sale are in the same condition.” + </p> + <p> + The explorers were now at the entrance of the mighty Columbia,—“The + Great River” of which they had heard so much from the Indians. We might + suppose that when they actually embarked upon the waters of the famous + stream, variously known as “The River of the North” and “The Oregon,” the + explorers would be touched with a little of the enthusiasm with which they + straddled the headwaters of the Missouri and gazed upon the snow-covered + peaks of the Rocky Mountains. But no such kindling of the imagination + seems to have been noted in their journal. In this commonplace way, + according to their own account, Captain Clark entered upon the mighty + Columbia:— + </p> + <p> + “In the course of the day (October 17, 1805), Captain Clark, in a small + canoe with two men, ascended the Columbia. At the distance of five miles + he passed an island in the middle of the river, at the head of which was a + small but not dangerous rapid. On the left bank, opposite to this island, + was a fishing-place consisting of three mat houses. Here were great + quantities of salmon drying on scaffolds; and, indeed, from the mouth of + the river upward, he saw immense numbers of dead salmon strewed along the + shore, or floating on the surface of the water, which is so clear that the + fish may be seen swimming at the depth of fifteen or twenty feet. The + Indians, who had collected on the banks to observe him, now joined him in + eighteen canoes, and accompanied him up the river. A mile above the rapids + he came to the lower point of an island, where the course of the stream, + which had been from its mouth north eighty-three degrees west, now became + due west. He proceeded in that direction, until, observing three house’s + of mats at a short distance, he landed to visit them. On entering one of + these houses, he found it crowded with men, women, and children, who + immediately provided a mat for him to sit on, and one of the party + undertook to prepare something to eat. He began by bringing in a piece of + pine wood that had drifted down the river, which he split into small + pieces with a wedge made of elkhorn, by means of a mallet of stone + curiously carved. The pieces of wood were then laid on the fire, and + several round stones placed upon them. One of the squaws now brought a + bucket of water, in which was a large salmon about half dried, and, as the + stones became heated, they were put into the bucket till the salmon was + sufficiently boiled for use. It was then taken out, put on a platter of + rushes neatly made, and laid before Captain Clark, while another was + boiled for each of his men. During these preparations he smoked with such + about him as would accept of tobacco, but very few were desirous of + smoking, a custom which is not general among them, and chiefly used as a + matter of form in great ceremonies. + </p> + <p> + “After eating the fish, which was of an excellent flavor, Captain Clark + set out and, at the distance of four miles from the last island, came to + the lower point of another near the left shore, where he halted at two + large mat-houses. Here, as at the three houses below, the inhabitants were + occupied in splitting and drying salmon. The multitudes of this fish are + almost inconceivable. The water is so clear that they can readily be seen + at the depth of fifteen or twenty feet; but at this season they float in + such quantities down the stream, and are drifted ashore, that the Indians + have only to collect, split, and dry them on the scaffolds. Where they + procure the timber of which these scaffolds are composed he could not + learn; but as there is nothing but willow-bushes to be seen for a great + distance from this place, it rendered very probable what the Indians + assured him by signs, that they often used dried fish as fuel for the + common occasions of cooking. From this island they showed him the entrance + of the western branch of the Columbia, called the Tapteal, which, as far + as could be seen, bears nearly west and empties about eight miles above + into the Columbia, the general course of which is northwest.” + </p> + <p> + The Tapteal, as the journal calls it, is now known as the Yakima, a stream + which has its source in the Cascade range of mountains, Washington. The + party tarried here long enough to secure from the Indians a tolerably + correct description of the river upon which they were about to embark. One + of the chiefs drew upon the skin-side of a buffalo robe a sketch of the + Columbia. And this was transferred to paper and put into the journal. That + volume adds here:— + </p> + <p> + “Having completed the purposes of our stay, we now began to lay in our + stores. Fish being out of season, we purchased forty dogs, for which we + gave small articles, such as bells, thimbles, knitting-needles, brass + wire, and a few beads, an exchange with which they all seemed perfectly + satisfied. These dogs, with six prairie-cocks killed this morning, formed + a plentiful supply for the present. We here left our guide and the two + young men who had accompanied him, two of the three being unwilling to go + any further, and the third being of no use, as he was not acquainted with + the river below. We therefore took no Indians but our two chiefs, and + resumed our journey in the presence of many of the Sokulks, who came to + witness our departure. The morning was cool and fair, and the wind from + the southeast.” + </p> + <p> + They now began again to meet Indians who had never before seen white men. + On the nineteenth, says the journal:— + </p> + <p> + “The great chief, with two of his inferior chiefs and a third belonging to + a band on the river below, made us a visit at a very early hour. The first + of these was called Yelleppit,—a handsome, well-proportioned man, + about five feet eight inches high, and thirty-five years of age, with a + bold and dignified countenance; the rest were not distinguished in their + appearance. We smoked with them, and after making a speech, gave a medal, + a handkerchief, and a string of wampum to Yelleppit, but a string of + wampum only to the inferior chiefs. He requested us to remain till the + middle of the day, in order that all his nation might come and see us; but + we excused ourselves by telling him that on our return we would spend two + or three days with him. This conference detained us till nine o’clock, by + which time great numbers of the Indians had come down to visit us. On + leaving them we went on for eight miles, when we came to an island near + the left shore, which continued six miles in length. At its lower + extremity is a small island on which are five houses, at present vacant, + though the scaffolds of fish are as usual abundant. A short distance below + are two more islands, one of them near the middle of the river. On this + there were seven houses, but as soon as the Indians, who were drying fish, + saw us, they fled to their houses, and not one of them appeared till we + had passed; when they came out in greater numbers than is usual for houses + of that size, which induced us to think that the inhabitants of the five + lodges had been alarmed at our approach and taken refuge with them. We + were very desirous of landing in order to relieve their apprehensions, but + as there was a bad rapid along the island all our care was necessary to + prevent injury to the canoes. At the foot of this rapid is a rock on the + left shore, which is fourteen miles from our camp of last night and + resembles a hat in shape.” + </p> + <p> + Later in the day, Captain Clark ascended a bluff on the river bank, where + he saw “a very high mountain covered with snow.” This was Mount St. + Helen’s, in Cowlitz County, Washington. The altitude of the peak is nine + thousand seven hundred and fifty feet. “Having arrived at the lower ends + of the rapids below the bluff before any of the rest of the party, he sat + down on a rock to wait for them, and, seeing a crane fly across the river, + shot it, and it fell near him. Several Indians had been before this + passing on the opposite side towards the rapids, and some who were then + nearly in front of him, being either alarmed at his appearance or the + report of the gun, fled to their houses. Captain Clark was afraid that + these people had not yet heard that the white men were coming, and + therefore, in order to allay their uneasiness before the rest of the party + should arrive, he got into the small canoe with three men, rowed over + towards the houses, and, while crossing, shot a duck, which fell into the + water. As he approached no person was to be seen except three men in the + plains, and they, too, fled as he came near the shore. He landed in front + of five houses close to each other, but no one appeared, and the doors, + which were of mat, were closed. He went towards one of them with a pipe in + his hand, and, pushing aside the mat, entered the lodge, where he found + thirty-two persons, chiefly men and women, with a few children, all in the + greatest consternation; some hanging down their heads, others crying and + wringing their hands. He went up to them, and shook hands with each one in + the most friendly manner; but their apprehensions, which had for a moment + subsided, revived on his taking out a burning-glass, as there was no roof + to the house, and lighting his pipe: he then offered it to several of the + men, and distributed among the women and children some small trinkets + which he had with him, and gradually restored a degree of tranquillity + among them. + </p> + <p> + “Leaving this house, and directing each of his men to visit a house, he + entered a second. Here he found the inmates more terrified than those in + the first; but he succeeded in pacifying them, and afterward went into the + other houses, where the men had been equally successful. Retiring from the + houses, he seated himself on a rock, and beckoned to some of the men to + come and smoke with him; but none of them ventured to join him till the + canoes arrived with the two chiefs, who immediately explained our pacific + intention towards them. Soon after the interpreter’s wife (Sacajawea) + landed, and her presence dissipated all doubts of our being well-disposed, + since in this country no woman ever accompanies a war party: they + therefore all came out, and seemed perfectly reconciled; nor could we, + indeed, blame them for their terrors, which were perfectly natural. They + told the two chiefs that they knew we were not men, for they had seen us + fall from the clouds. In fact, unperceived by them, Captain Clark had shot + the white crane, which they had seen fall just before he appeared to their + eyes: the duck which he had killed also fell close by him; and as there + were some clouds flying over at the moment, they connected the fall of the + birds with his sudden appearance, and believed that he had himself + actually dropped from the clouds; considering the noise of the rifle, + which they had never heard before, the sound announcing so extraordinary + an event. This belief was strengthened, when, on entering the room, he + brought down fire from the heavens by means of his burning-glass. We soon + convinced them, however, that we were merely mortals; and after one of our + chiefs had explained our history and objects, we all smoked together in + great harmony.” + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0016" id="link2HCH0016"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XVI — Down the Columbia to Tidewater + </h2> + <p> + The voyagers were now drifting down the Columbia River, and they found the + way impeded by many rapids, some of them very dangerous. But their skill + in the handling of their canoes seems to have been equal to the occasion, + although they were sometimes compelled to go around the more difficult + rapids, making a short land portage. When they had travelled about forty + miles down the river, they landed opposite an island on which were + twenty-four houses of Indians; the people, known as the Pishquitpahs, were + engaged in drying fish. No sooner had the white men landed than the + Indians, to the number of one hundred, came across the stream bringing + with them some firewood, a most welcome present in that treeless country. + The visitors were entertained with presents and a long smoke at the pipe + of peace. So pleased were they with the music of two violins played by + Cruzatte and Gibson, of the exploring party, that they remained by the + fire of the white men all night. The news of the arrival of the white + strangers soon spread, and next morning about two hundred more of the + Indians assembled to gaze on them. Later in the day, having gotten away + from their numerous inquisitive visitors, the explorers passed down-stream + and landed on a small island to examine a curious vault, in which were + placed the remains of the dead of the tribe. The journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “This place, in which the dead are deposited, is a building about sixty + feet long and twelve feet wide, formed by placing in the ground poles or + forks six feet high, across which a long pole is extended the whole length + of the structure; against this ridge-pole are placed broad boards and + pieces of canoes, in a slanting direction, so as to form a shed. It stands + cast and west, and neither of the extremities is closed. On entering the + western end we observed a number of bodies wrapped carefully in leather + robes, and arranged in rows on boards, which were then covered with a mat. + This was the part destined for those who had recently died; a little + further on, bones half decayed were scattered about, and in the centre of + the building was a large pile of them heaped promiscuously on each other. + At the eastern extremity was a mat, on which twenty-one skulls were placed + in a circular form; the mode of interment being first to wrap the body in + robes, then as it decays to throw the bones into the heap, and place the + skulls together. From the different boards and pieces of canoes which form + the vault were suspended, on the inside, fishing-nets, baskets, wooden + bowls, robes, skins, trenchers, and trinkets of various kinds, obviously + intended as offerings of affection to deceased relatives. On the outside + of the vault were the skeletons of several horses, and great quantities of + their bones were in the neighborhood, which induced us to believe that + these animals were most probably sacrificed at the funeral rites of their + masters.” + </p> + <p> + Just below this stand the party met Indians who traded with tribes living + near the great falls of the Columbia. That place they designated as + “Tum-tum,” a word that signifies the throbbing of the heart. One of these + Indians had a sailor’s jacket, and others had a blue blanket and a scarlet + blanket. These articles had found their way up the river from white + traders on the seashore. + </p> + <p> + On the twenty-first of October the explorers discovered a considerable + stream which appeared to rise in the southeast and empty into the Columbia + on the left. To this stream they gave the name of Lepage for Bastien + Lepage, one of the voyageurs accompanying the party. The watercourse, + however, is now known as John Day’s River. John Day was a mighty hunter + and backwoodsman from Kentucky who went across the continent, six years + later, with a party bound for Astoria, on the Columbia. From the rapids + below the John Day River the Lewis and Clark party caught their first + sight of Mount Hood, a famous peak of the Cascade range of mountains, + looming up in the southwest, eleven thousand two hundred and twenty-five + feet high. Next day they passed the mouth of another river entering the + Columbia from the south and called by the Indians the Towahnahiooks, but + known to modern geography as the Des Chutes, one of the largest southern + tributaries of the Columbia. Five miles below the mouth of this stream the + party camped. Near them was a party of Indians engaged in drying and + packing salmon. Their method of doing this is thus described:— + </p> + <p> + “The manner of doing this is by first opening the fish and exposing it to + the sun on scaffolds. When it is sufficiently dried it is pounded between + two stones till it is pulverized, and is then placed in a basket about two + feet long and one in diameter, neatly made of grass and rushes, and lined + with the skin of a salmon stretched and dried for the purpose. Here the + fish are pressed down as hard as possible, and the top is covered with + fish-skins, which are secured by cords through the holes of the basket. + These baskets are then placed in some dry situation, the corded part + upward, seven being usually placed as close as they can be put together, + and five on the top of these. The whole is then wrapped up in mats, and + made fast by cords, over which mats are again thrown. Twelve of these + baskets, each of which contains from ninety to one hundred pounds, form a + stack, which is left exposed till it is sent to market. The fish thus + preserved keep sound and sweet for several years, and great quantities, + they inform us, are sent to the Indians who live below the falls, whence + it finds its way to the whites who visit the mouth of the Columbia. We + observe, both near the lodges and on the rocks in the river, great numbers + of stacks of these pounded fish. Besides fish, these people supplied us + with filberts and berries, and we purchased a dog for supper; but it was + with much difficulty that we were able to buy wood enough to cook it.” + </p> + <p> + On the twenty-third the voyagers made the descent of the great falls which + had so long been an object of dread to them. The whole height of the falls + is thirty-seven feet, eight inches, in a distance of twelve hundred yards. + A portage of four hundred and fifty yards was made around the first fall, + which is twenty feet high, and perpendicular. By means of lines the canoes + were let down the rapids below. At the season of high water the falls + become mere rapids up which the salmon can pass. On this point the journal + says:— + </p> + <p> + “From the marks everywhere perceivable at the falls, it is obvious that in + high floods, which must be in the spring, the water below the falls rises + nearly to a level with that above them. Of this rise, which is occasioned + by some obstructions which we do not as yet know, the salmon must avail + themselves to pass up the river in such multitudes that this fish is + almost the only one caught in great abundance above the falls; but below + that place we observe the salmon-trout, and the heads of a species of + trout smaller than the salmon-trout, which is in great quantities, and + which they are now burying, to be used as their winter food. A hole of any + size being dug, the sides and bottom are lined with straw, over which + skins are laid; on these the fish, after being well dried, are laid, + covered with other skins, and the hole is closed with a layer of earth + twelve or fifteen inches deep. . . . + </p> + <p> + “We saw no game except a sea-otter, which was shot in the narrow channel + as we were coming down, but we could not get it. Having, therefore, + scarcely any provisions, we purchased eight small fat dogs: a food to + which we were compelled to have recourse, as the Indians were very + unwilling to sell us any of their good fish, which they reserved for the + market below. Fortunately, however, habit had completely overcome the + repugnance which we felt at first at eating this animal, and the dog, if + not a favorite dish, was always an acceptable one. The meridian altitude + of to-day gave 45'0 42’ 57.3” north as the latitude of our camp. + </p> + <p> + “On the beach, near the Indian huts, we observed two canoes of a different + shape and size from any which we had hitherto seen. One of these we got by + giving our smallest canoe a hatchet, and a few trinkets to the owner, who + said he had obtained it from a white man below the falls in exchange for a + horse. These canoes were very beautifully made: wide in the middle, and + tapering towards each end, with curious figures carved on the bow. They + were thin, but, being strengthened by crossbars about an inch in diameter, + tied with strong pieces of bark through holes in the sides, were able to + bear very heavy burdens, and seemed calculated to live in the roughest + water.” + </p> + <p> + At this point the officers of the expedition observed signs of uneasiness + in the two friendly Indian chiefs who had thus far accompanied them. They + also heard rumors that the warlike Indians below them were meditating an + attack as the party went down. The journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “Being at all times ready for any attempt of that sort, we were not under + greater apprehensions than usual at this intelligence. We therefore only + re-examined our arms, and increased the ammunition to one hundred rounds. + Our chiefs, who had not the same motives of confidence, were by no means + so much at their ease, and when at night they saw the Indians leave us + earlier than usual, their suspicions of an intended attack were confirmed, + and they were very much alarmed. + </p> + <p> + “The Indians approached us with apparent caution, and behaved with more + than usual reserve. Our two chiefs, by whom these circumstances were not + observed, now told us that they wished to return home; that they could be + no longer of any service to us; that they could not understand the + language of the people below the falls; that those people formed a + different nation from their own; that the two people had been at war with + each other; and that as the Indians had expressed a resolution to attack + us, they would certainly kill them. We endeavored to quiet their fears, + and requested them to stay two nights longer, in which time we would see + the Indians below, and make a peace between the two nations. They replied + that they were anxious to return and see their horses. We however insisted + on their remaining with us, not only in hopes of bringing about an + accommodation between them and their enemies, but because they might be + able to detect any hostile designs against us, and also assist us in + passing the next falls, which are not far off, and represented as very + difficult. They at length agreed to stay with us two nights longer.” + </p> + <p> + The explorers now arrived at the next fall of the Columbia. Here was a + quiet basin, on the margin of which were three Indian huts. The journal + tells the rest of the story:— + </p> + <p> + “At the extremity of this basin stood a high black rock, which, rising + perpendicularly from the right shore, seemed to run wholly across the + river: so totally, indeed, did it appear to stop the passage, that we + could not see where the water escaped, except that the current was + seemingly drawn with more than usual velocity to the left of the rock, + where was heard a great roaring. We landed at the huts of the Indians, who + went with us to the top of the rock, from which we had a view of all the + difficulties of the channel. We were now no longer at a loss to account + for the rising of the river at the falls; for this tremendous rock was + seen stretching across the river, to meet the high hills on the left + shore, leaving a channel of only forty-five yards wide, through which the + whole body of the Columbia pressed its way. The water, thus forced into so + narrow a passage, was thrown into whirls, and swelled and boiled in every + part with the wildest agitation. But the alternative of carrying the boats + over this high rock was almost impossible in our present situation; and as + the chief danger seemed to be, not from any obstructions in the channel, + but from the great waves and whirlpools, we resolved to attempt the + passage, in the hope of being able, by dexterous steering, to descend in + safety. This we undertook, and with great care were able to get through, + to the astonishment of the Indians in the huts we had just passed, who now + collected to see us from the top of the rock. The channel continued thus + confined for the space of about half a mile, when the rock ceased. We + passed a single Indian hut at the foot of it, where the river again + enlarges to the width of two hundred yards, and at the distance of a mile + and a half stopped to view a very bad rapid; this is formed by two rocky + islands which divide the channel, the lower and larger of which is in the + middle of the river. The appearance of this place was so unpromising that + we unloaded all the most valuable articles, such as guns, ammunition, our + papers, etc., and sent them by land, with all the men that could not swim, + to the extremity of these rapids. We then descended with the canoes, two + at a time; though the canoes took in some water, we all went through + safely; after which we made two miles, stopped in a deep bend of the river + toward the right, and camped a little above a large village of twenty-one + houses. Here we landed; and as it was late before all the canoes joined + us, we were obliged to remain this evening, the difficulties of the + navigation having permitted us to make only six miles.” + </p> + <p> + They were then among the Echeloots, a tribe of the Upper Chinooks, now + nearly extinct. The white men were much interested in the houses of these + people, which, their journal set forth, were “the first wooden buildings + seen since leaving the Illinois country.” This is the manner of their + construction:— + </p> + <p> + “A large hole, twenty feet wide and thirty in length, was dug to the depth + of six feet; the sides of which were lined with split pieces of timber + rising just above the surface of the ground, and smoothed to the same + width by burning, or by being shaved with small iron axes. These timbers + were secured in their erect position by a pole stretched along the side of + the building near the eaves, and supported on a strong post fixed at each + corner. The timbers at the gable ends rose gradually higher, the middle + pieces being the broadest. At the top of these was a sort of semicircle, + made to receive a ridge-pole the whole length of the house, propped by an + additional post in the middle, and forming the top of the roof. From this + ridge-pole to the eaves of the house were placed a number of small poles + or rafters, secured at each end by fibres of the cedar. On these poles, + which were connected by small transverse bars of wood, was laid a covering + of white cedar, or arbor vitae, kept on by strands of cedar fibres; but a + small space along the whole length of the ridge-pole was left uncovered, + for the purpose of light, and of permitting the smoke to pass out. The + roof, thus formed, had a descent about equal to that common among us, and + near the eaves it was perforated with a number of small holes, made, most + probably, for the discharge of arrows in case of an attack. The only + entrance was by a small door at the gable end, cut out of the middle piece + of timber, twenty-nine and a half inches high, fourteen inches broad, and + reaching only eighteen inches above the earth. Before this hole is hung a + mat; on pushing it aside and crawling through, the descent is by a small + wooden ladder, made in the form of those used among us. One-half of the + inside is used as a place of deposit for dried fish, of which large + quantities are stored away, and with a few baskets of berries form the + only family provisions; the other half, adjoining the door, remains for + the accommodation of the family. On each side are arranged near the walls + small beds of mats placed on little scaffolds or bedsteads, raised from + eighteen inches to three feet from the ground; and in the middle of the + vacant space is the fire, or sometimes two or three fires, when, as is + usually the case, the house contains three families.” + </p> + <p> + Houses very like these are built by the Ahts or Nootkas, a tribe of + Indians inhabiting parts of Vancouver Island and the adjacent mainland. A + Nootka calls his house an ourt. + </p> + <p> + The good offices of Lewis and Clark, who were always ready to make peace + between hostile tribes, were again successful here. The Echeloots received + the white men with much kindness, invited them to their houses, and + returned their visits after the explorers had camped. Lewis and Clark told + the Echeloot chiefs that the war was destroying them and their industries, + bringing want and privation upon them. The Indians listened with attention + to what was said, and after some talk they agreed to make peace with their + ancient enemies. Impressed with the sincerity of this agreement, the + captains of the expedition invested the principal chief with a medal and + some small articles of clothing. The two faithful chiefs who had + accompanied the white men from the headwaters of the streams now bade + farewell to their friends and allies, the explorers. They bought horses of + the Echeloots and returned to their distant homes by land. + </p> + <p> + Game here became more abundant, and on the twenty-sixth of October the + journal records the fact that they received from the Indians a present of + deer-meat, and on that day their hunters found plenty of tracks of elk and + deer in the mountains, and they brought in five deer, four very large gray + squirrels, and a grouse. Besides these delicacies, one of the men killed + in the river a salmon-trout which was fried in bear’s oil and, according + to the journal, “furnished a dish of a very delightful flavor,” doubtless + a pleasing change from the diet of dog’s flesh with which they had so + recently been regaled. + </p> + <p> + Two of the Echeloot chiefs remained with the white men to guide them on + their way down the river. These were joined by seven others of their + tribe, to whom the explorers were kind and attentive. But the visitors + could not resist the temptation to pilfer from the goods exposed to dry in + the sun. Being checked in this sly business, they became ill-humored and + returned, angry, down the river. + </p> + <p> + The explorers noticed here that the Indians flattened the heads of males + as well as females. Higher up the river, only the women and female + children had flat heads. The custom of artificially flattening the heads + of both men and women, in infancy, was formerly practised by nearly all + the tribes of the Chinook family along the Columbia River. Various means + are used to accomplish this purpose, the most common and most cruel being + to bind a flat board on the forehead of an infant in such a way that it + presses on the skull and forces the forehead up on to the top of the head. + As a man whose head has been flattened in infancy grows older, the + deformity partly disappears; but the flatness of the head is always + regarded as a tribal badge of great merit. + </p> + <p> + “On the morning of the twenty-eighth,” says the journal, having dried our + goods, we were about setting out, when three canoes came from above to + visit us, and at the same time two others from below arrived for the same + purpose. Among these last was an Indian who wore his hair in a que, and + had on a round hat and a sailor’s jacket, which he said he had obtained + from the people below the great rapids, who bought them from the whites. + This interview detained us till nine o’clock, when we proceeded down the + river, which is now bordered with cliffs of loose dark colored rocks about + ninety feet high, with a thin covering of pines and other small trees. At + the distance of four miles we reached a small village of eight houses + under some high rocks on the right with a small creek on the opposite side + of the river. + </p> + <p> + “We landed and found the houses similar to those we had seen at the great + narrows; on entering one of them we saw a British musket, a cutlass, and + several brass tea-kettles, of which they seemed to be very fond. There + were figures of men, birds, and different animals, which were cut and + painted on the boards which form the sides of the room; though the + workmanship of these uncouth figures was very rough, they were highly + esteemed by the Indians as the finest frescos of more civilized people. + This tribe is called the Chilluckittequaw; their language, though somewhat + different from that of the Echeloots, has many of the same words, and is + sufficiently intelligible to the neighboring Indians. We procured from + them a vocabulary, and then, after buying five small dogs, some dried + berries, and a white bread or cake made of roots, we left them. The wind, + however, rose so high that we were obliged, after going one mile, to land + on the left side, opposite a rocky island, and pass the day.” + </p> + <p> + On the same day the white chiefs visited one of the most prominent of the + native houses built along the river. + </p> + <p> + “This,” says the journal, “was the residence of the principal chief of the + Chilluckittequaw nation, who we found was the same between whom and our + two chiefs we had made a peace at the Echeloot village. He received us, + very kindly, and set before us pounded fish, filberts, nuts, the berries + of the sacacommis, and white bread made of roots. We gave, in return, a + bracelet of ribbon to each of the women of the house, with which they were + very much pleased. The chief had several articles, such as scarlet and + blue cloth, a sword, a jacket, and a hat, which must have been procured + from the whites, and on one side of the room were two wide, split boards, + placed together so as to make space for a rude figure of a man cut and + painted on them. On pointing to this, and asking him what it meant, he + said something, of which all that we understood was ‘good,’ and then + stepped up to the painting, and took out his bow and quiver, which, with + some other warlike instruments, were kept behind it. + </p> + <p> + “He then directed his wife to hand him his medicine-bag, from which he + drew out fourteen forefingers, which he told us had belonged to the same + number of his enemies, whom he had killed in fighting with the nations to + the southeast, in which direction he pointed; alluding, no doubt, to the + Snake Indians, the common enemy of the tribes on the Columbia. This bag is + usually about two feet in length, and contains roots, pounded dirt, etc., + which only the Indians know how to appreciate. It is suspended in the + middle of the lodge; and it is considered as a species of sacrilege for + any one but the owner to touch it. It is an object of religious fear; and, + from its supposed sanctity, is the chief place for depositing their medals + and more valuable articles. They have likewise small bags, which they + preserve in their great medicine-bag, from whence they are taken, and worn + around their waists and necks as amulets against any real or imaginary + evils. This was the first time we had been apprised that the Indians ever + carried from the field any other trophy than the scalp. These fingers were + shown with great exultation; and, after an harangue, which we were left to + presume was in praise of his exploits, the chief carefully replaced them + among the valuable contents of his red medicine-bag. The inhabitants of + this village being part of the same nation with those of the village we + had passed above, the language of the two was the same, and their houses + were of similar form and materials, and calculated to contain about thirty + souls. They were unusually hospitable and good-humored, so that we gave to + the place the name of the Friendly village. We breakfasted here; and after + purchasing twelve dogs, four sacks of fish, and a few dried berries, + proceeded on our journey. The hills as we passed were high, with steep, + rocky sides, with pine and white oak, and an undergrowth of shrubs + scattered over them.” + </p> + <p> + Leaving the Friendly village, the party went on their way down the river. + Four miles below they came to a small and rapid river which they called + the Cataract River, but which is now known as the Klikitat. The rapids of + the stream, according to the Indians, were so numerous that salmon could + not ascend it, and the Indians who lived along its banks subsisted on what + game they could kill with their bows and arrows and on the berries which, + in certain seasons, were plentiful. Again we notice the purchase of dogs; + this time only four were bought, and the party proceeded on their way. + That night, having travelled thirty-two miles, they camped on the right + bank of the river in what is now Skamania County, Washington. Three huts + were inhabited by a considerable number of Indians, of whom the journal + has this to say:— + </p> + <p> + “On our first arrival they seemed surprised, but not alarmed, and we soon + became intimate by means of smoking and our favorite entertainment for the + Indians, the violin. They gave us fruit, roots, and root-bread, and we + purchased from them three dogs. The houses of these people are similar to + those of the Indians above, and their language is the same; their dress + also, consisting of robes or skins of wolves, deer, elk, and wildcat, is + made nearly after the same model; their hair is worn in plaits down each + shoulder, and round their neck is put a strip of some skin with the tail + of the animal hanging down over the breast; like the Indians above, they + are fond of otter-skins, and give a great price for them. We here saw the + skin of a mountain sheep, which they say lives among the rocks in the + mountains; the skin was covered with white hair; the wool was long, thick, + and coarse, with long coarse hair on the top of the neck and on the back, + resembling somewhat the bristles of a goat. Immediately behind the village + is a pond, in which were great numbers of small swan.” + </p> + <p> + The “mountain sheep” mentioned here are not the bighorn of which we have + heard something in the earlier part of this narrative, but a species of + wild goat found among the Cascade Mountains. The “wildcat” above referred + to is probably that variety of lynx known in Canada and most of the + Northern States and the Pacific as the <i>loup-cervier</i>, or vulgarly, + the “lucifee.” + </p> + <p> + On the last day of October, the next of the more difficult rapids being + near, Captain Clark went ahead to examine the “shoot,” as the explorers + called the place which we know as the chute. In the thick wood that + bordered the river he found an ancient burial-place which he thus + describes:— + </p> + <p> + “It consists of eight vaults made of pine or cedar boards closely + connected, about eight feet square and six in height; the top covered with + wide boards sloping a little, so as to convey off the rain. The direction + of all of these vaults is east and west, the door being on the eastern + side, partially stopped with wide boards decorated with rude pictures of + men and other animals. On entering he found in some of them four dead + bodies, carefully wrapped in skins, tied with cords of grass and bark, + lying on a mat, in a direction east and west. The other vaults contained + only bones, which were in some of them piled to the height of four feet. + On the tops of the vaults, and on poles attached to them, bung brass + kettles and frying-pans with holes in their bottoms, baskets, bowls, + sea-shells, skins, pieces of cloth, hair, bags of trinkets and small bones—the + offerings of friendship or affection, which have been saved by a pious + veneration from the ferocity of war, or the more dangerous temptations of + individual gain. The whole of the walls as well as the door were decorated + with strange figures cut and painted on them; and besides were several + wooden images of men, some so old and decayed as to have almost lost their + shape, which were all placed against the sides of the vaults. These + images, as well as those in the houses we have lately seen, do not appear + to be at all the objects of adoration; in this place they were most + probably intended as resemblances of those whose decease they indicate; + when we observe them in houses, they occupy the most conspicuous part, but + are treated more like ornaments than objects of worship.” + </p> + <p> + The white men were visited at their camp by many Indians from the villages + farther up the stream. The journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “We had an opportunity of seeing to-day the hardihood of the Indians of + the neighboring village. One of the men shot a goose, which fell into the + river and was floating rapidly toward the great shoot, when an Indian + observing it plunged in after it. The whole mass of the waters of the + Columbia, just preparing to descend its narrow channel, carried the animal + down with great rapidity. The Indian followed it fearlessly to within one + hundred and fifty feet of the rocks, where he would inevitably have been + dashed to pieces; but seizing his prey he turned round and swam ashore + with great composure. We very willingly relinquished our right to the bird + in favor of the Indian who had thus saved it at the imminent hazard of his + life; he immediately set to work and picked off about half the feathers, + and then, without opening it, ran a stick through it and carried it off to + roast.” + </p> + <p> + With many hair’s-breadth escapes, the expedition now passed through the + rapids or “great shoot.” The river here is one hundred and fifty yards + wide and the rapids are confined to an area four hundred yards long, + crowded with islands and rocky ledges. They found the Indians living along + the banks of the stream to be kindly disposed; but they had learned, by + their intercourse with tribes living below, to set a high value on their + wares. They asked high prices for anything they had for sale. The journal + says:— + </p> + <p> + “We cannot learn precisely the nature of the trade carried on by the + Indians with the inhabitants below. But as their knowledge of the whites + seems to be very imperfect, and as the only articles which they carry to + market, such as pounded fish, bear-grass, and roots, cannot be an object + of much foreign traffic, their intercourse appears to be an intermediate + trade with the natives near the mouth of the Columbia. From them these + people obtain, in exchange for their fish, roots, and bear-grass, blue and + white beads, copper tea-kettles, brass armbands, some scarlet and blue + robes, and a few articles of old European clothing. But their great object + is to obtain beads, an article which holds the first place in their ideas + of relative value, and to procure which they will sacrifice their last + article of clothing or last mouthful of food. Independently of their + fondness for them as an ornament, these beads are the medium of trade, by + which they obtain from the Indians still higher up the river, robes, + skins, chappelel bread, bear-grass, etc. Those Indians in turn employ them + to procure from the Indians in the Rocky Mountains, bear-grass, + pachico-roots, robes, etc. + </p> + <p> + “These Indians are rather below the common size, with high cheek-bones; + their noses are pierced, and in full dress ornamented with a tapering + piece of white shell or wampum about two inches long. Their eyes are + exceedingly sore and weak; many of them have only a single eye, and some + are perfectly blind. Their teeth prematurely decay, and in frequent + instances are altogether worn away. Their general health, however, seems + to be good, the only disorder we have remarked being tumors in different + parts of the body.” + </p> + <p> + The more difficult rapid was passed on the second day of November, the + luggage being sent down by land and the empty canoes taken down with great + care. The journal of that date says:— + </p> + <p> + “The rapid we have just passed is the last of all the descents of the + Columbia. At this place the first tidewater commences, and the river in + consequence widens immediately below the rapid. As we descended we + reached, at the distance of one mile from the rapid, a creek under a bluff + on the left; at three miles is the lower point of Strawberry Island. To + this immediately succeed three small islands covered with wood. In the + meadow to the right, at some distance from the hills, stands a + perpendicular rock about eight hundred feet high and four hundred yards + around the base. This we called Beacon Rock. Just below is an Indian + village of nine houses, situated between two small creeks. At this village + the river widens to nearly a mile in extent; the low grounds become wider, + and they as well as the mountains on each side are covered with pine, + spruce-pine, cottonwood, a species of ash, and some alder. After being so + long accustomed to the dreary nakedness of the country above, the change + is as grateful to the eye as it is useful in supplying us with fuel. Four + miles from the village is a point of land on the right, where the hills + become lower, but are still thickly timbered. The river is now about two + miles wide, the current smooth and gentle, and the effect of the tide has + been sensible since leaving the rapid. Six miles lower is a rock rising + from the middle of the river to the height of one hundred feet, and about + eighty yards at its base. We continued six miles further, and halted for + the night under a high projecting rock on the left side of the river, + opposite the point of a large meadow. + </p> + <p> + “The mountains, which, from the great shoot to this place, are high, + rugged, and thickly covered with timber, chiefly of the pine species, here + leave the river on each side; the river becomes two and one-half miles in + width; the low grounds are extensive and well supplied with wood. The + Indians whom we left at the portage passed us on their way down the river, + and seven others, who were descending in a canoe for the purpose of + trading below, camped with us. We had made from the foot of the great + shoot twenty-nine miles to-day. The ebb tide rose at our camp about nine + inches; the flood must rise much higher. We saw great numbers of + water-fowl, such as swan, geese, ducks of various kinds, gulls, plovers, + and the white and gray brant, of which last we killed eighteen.” + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0017" id="link2HCH0017"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XVII — From Tidewater to the Sea + </h2> + <p> + Near the mouth of the river which the explorers named Quicksand River (now + Sandy), they met a party of fifteen Indians who had lately been down to + the mouth of the Columbia. These people told the white men that they had + seen three vessels at anchor below, and, as these must needs be American, + or European, the far-voyaging explorers were naturally pleased. When they + had camped that night, they received other visitors of whom the journal + makes mention:— + </p> + <p> + “A canoe soon after arrived from the village at the foot of the last + rapid, with an Indian and his family, consisting of a wife, three + children, and a woman who had been taken prisoner from the Snake Indians, + living on a river from the south, which we afterward found to be the + Multnomah. Sacajawea was immediately introduced to her, in hopes that, + being a Snake Indian, they might understand each other; but their language + was not sufficiently intelligible to permit them to converse together. The + Indian had a gun with a brass barrel and cock, which he appeared to value + highly.” + </p> + <p> + The party had missed the Multnomah River in their way down, although this + is one of the three largest tributaries of the Columbia, John Day’s River + and the Des Chutes being the other two. A group of islands near the mouth + of the Multnomah hides it from the view of the passing voyager. The stream + is now more generally known as the Willamette, or Wallamet. The large city + of Portland, Oregon, is built on the river, about twelve miles from its + junction with the Columbia. The Indian tribes along the banks of the + Multnomah, or Willamette, subsisted largely on the wappatoo, an eatable + root, about the size of a hen’s egg and closely resembling a potato. This + root is much sought after by the Indians and is eagerly bought by tribes + living in regions where it is not to be found. The party made great use of + the wappatoo after they had learned how well it served in place of bread. + They bought here all that the Indians could spare and then made their way + down the river to an open prairie where they camped for dinner and found + many signs of elk and deer. The journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “When we landed for dinner, a number of Indians from the last village came + down for the purpose, as we supposed, of paying us a friendly visit, as + they had put on their favorite dresses. In addition to their usual + covering they had scarlet and blue blankets, sailors’ jackets and + trousers, shirts and hats. They had all of them either war-axes, spears, + and bows and arrows, or muskets and pistols, with tin powder-flasks. We + smoked with them and endeavored to show them every attention, but we soon + found them very assuming and disagreeable companions. While we were + eating, they stole the pipe with which they were smoking, and the + greatcoat of one of the men. We immediately searched them all, and + discovered the coat stuffed under the root of a tree near where they were + sitting; but the pipe we could not recover. Finding us determined not to + suffer any imposition, and discontented with them, they showed their + displeasure in the only way which they dared, by returning in an ill-humor + to their village. + </p> + <p> + “We then proceeded and soon met two canoes, with twelve men of the same + Skilloot nation, who were on their way from below. The larger of the + canoes was ornamented with the figure of a bear in the bow and a man in + the stern, both nearly as large as life, both made of painted wood and + very neatly fixed to the boat. In the same canoe were two Indians, finely + dressed and with round hats. This circumstance induced us to give the name + of Image-canoe to the large island, the lower end of which we now passed + at the distance of nine miles from its head.” + </p> + <p> + Here they had their first full view of Mt. St. Helen’s, sometimes called + Mt. Ranier. The peak is in Washington and is 9,750 feet high. It has a + sugar-loaf, or conical, shape and is usually covered with snow. The + narrative of the expedition continues as follows:— + </p> + <p> + “The Skilloots that we passed to-day speak a language somewhat different + from that of the Echeloots or Chilluckittequaws near the long narrows. + Their dress, however, is similar, except that the Skilloots possess more + articles procured from the white traders; and there is this farther + difference between them, that the Skilloots, both males and females, have + the head flattened. Their principal food is fish, wappatoo roots, and some + elk and deer, in killing which with arrows they seem to be very expert; + for during the short time we remained at the village, three deer were + brought in. We also observed there a tame blaireau, (badger).” + </p> + <p> + The journal, November 5, says:— + </p> + <p> + “Our choice of a camp had been very unfortunate; for on a sand-island + opposite us were immense numbers of geese, swan, ducks, and other wild + fowl, which during the whole night serenaded us with a confusion of noises + which completely prevented our sleeping. During the latter part of the + night it rained, and we therefore willingly left camp at an early hour. We + passed at three miles a small prairie, where the river is only + three-quarters of a mile in width, and soon after two houses on the left, + half a mile distant from each other; from one of which three men came in a + canoe merely to look at us, and having done so returned home. At eight + miles we came to the lower point of an island, separated from the right + side by a narrow channel, on which, a short distance above the end of the + island, is situated a large village. It is built more compactly than the + generality of the Indian villages, and the front has fourteen houses, + which are ranged for a quarter of a mile along the channel. As soon as we + were discovered seven canoes came out to see us, and after some traffic, + during which they seemed well disposed and orderly, accompanied us a short + distance below.” + </p> + <p> + The explorers now met Indians of a different nation from those whom they + had seen before. The journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “These people seem to be of a different nation from those we have just + passed; they are low in stature, ill shaped, and all have their heads + flattened. They call themselves Wahkiacum, and their language differs from + that of the tribes above, with whom they trade for wappatoo-roots. The + houses are built in a different style, being raised entirely above ground, + with the caves about five feet high and the door at the corner. Near the + end, opposite this door, is a single fireplace, round which are the beds, + raised four feet from the floor of earth; over the fire are hung the fresh + fish, which, when dried, are stowed away with the wappatoo-roots under the + beds. The dress of the men is like that of the people above, but the women + are clad in a peculiar manner, the robe not reaching lower than the hip, + and the body being covered in cold weather by a sort of corset of fur, + curiously plaited and reaching from the arms to the hip; added to this is + a sort of petticoat, or rather tissue of white cedar bark, bruised or + broken into small strands, and woven into a girdle by several cords of the + same material. Being tied round the middle, these strands hang down as low + as the knee in front, and to the mid-leg behind; they are of sufficient + thickness to answer the purpose of concealment whilst the female stands in + an erect position, but in any other attitude form but a very ineffectual + defence. Sometimes the tissue is strings of silk-grass, twisted and + knotted at the end. After remaining with them about an hour, we proceeded + down the channel with an Indian dressed in a sailor’s jacket for our + pilot, and on reaching the main channel were visited by some Indians who + have a temporary residence on a marshy island in the middle of the river, + where is a great abundance of water-fowl.” + </p> + <p> + The tribe of Indians known as the Wahkiacums has entirely disappeared; but + the name survives as that of one of the counties of Washington bordering + on the Columbia. Wahkiacum is the county lying next west of Cowlitz. When + the explorers passed down the river under the piloting of their Indian + friend wearing a sailor’s jacket, they were in a thick fog. This cleared + away and a sight greeted their joyful vision. Their story says:— + </p> + <p> + “At a distance of twenty miles from our camp, we halted at a village of + Wahkiacums, consisting of seven ill-looking houses, built in the same form + with those above, and situated at the foot of the high hills on the right, + behind two small marshy islands. We merely stopped to purchase some food + and two beaver skins, and then proceeded. Opposite to these islands the + hills on the left retire, and the river widens into a kind of bay, crowded + with low islands, subject to be overflowed occasionally by the tide. We + had not gone far from this village when, the fog suddenly clearing away, + we were at last presented with the glorious sight of the ocean—that + ocean, the object of all our labors, the reward of all our anxieties. This + animating sight exhilarated the spirits of all the party, who were still + more delighted on hearing the distant roar of the breakers. We went on + with great cheerfulness along the high, mountainous country which bordered + the right bank: the shore, however, was so bold and rocky, that we could + not, until at a distance of fourteen miles from the last village, find any + spot fit for an encampment. Having made during the day thirty-four miles, + we now spread our mats on the ground, and passed the night in the rain. + Here we were joined by our small canoe, which had been separated from us + during the fog this morning. Two Indians from the last village also + accompanied us to the camp; but, having detected them in stealing a knife, + they were sent off.” + </p> + <p> + It is not very easy for us, who have lived comfortably at home, or who + have travelled only in luxurious railway-cars and handsomely equipped + steamers, to realize the joy and rapture with which these far-wandering + explorers hailed the sight of the sea,—the sea to which they had so + long been journeying, through deserts, mountain-passes, and tangled + wildernesses. In his diary Captain Clark thus sets down some indication of + his joy on that memorable day, November 8, 1805: “Great joy in camp. We + are in view of the Ocean, this great Pacific Ocean which we have been so + long anxious to see, and the roaring or noise made by the waves breaking + on the rocky shores (as I suppose) may be heard distinctly.” Later, same + day, he says, “Ocean in view! O! the joy!” Fortunately, the hardships to + be undergone on the shores of the ocean were then unknown and undreamed + of; the travellers were thankful to see the sea, the goal of all their + hopes, the end of their long pilgrimage across the continent. + </p> + <p> + That night they camped near the mouth of the river in what is now known as + Gray’s Bay, on the north side of the river, in the southwest corner of + Wahkiacum County. Before they could reach their camping-place, the water + was so rough that some of the men had an unusual experience,—seasickness. + They passed a disagreeable night on a narrow, rocky bench of land. Next + day they say: + </p> + <p> + “Fortunately for us, the tide did not rise as high as our camp during the + night; but being accompanied by high winds from the south, the canoes, + which we could not place beyond its reach, were filled with water, and + were saved with much difficulty. Our position was very uncomfortable, but + as it was impossible to move from it, we waited for a change of weather. + It rained, however, during the whole day, and at two o’clock in the + afternoon the flood tide set in, accompanied by a high wind from the + south, which, about four o’clock, shifted to the southwest and blew almost + a gale directly from the sea. The immense waves now broke over the place + where we were camped; the large trees, some of them five or six feet + thick, which had lodged at the point, were drifted over our camp, and the + utmost vigilance of every man could scarcely save our canoes from being + crushed to pieces. We remained in the water, and drenched with rain, + during the rest of the day, our only food being some dried fish and some + rain-water which we caught. Yet, though wet and cold, and some of them + sick from using salt water, the men were cheerful, and full of anxiety to + see more of the ocean. The rain continued all night.” + </p> + <p> + This was the beginning of troubles. Next day, the wind having lulled, the + party set forth again, only to be beaten back and compelled to take to the + shore again. This was their experience for several days. For example, + under date of the eleventh the journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “The wind was still high from the southwest, and drove the waves against + the shore with great fury; the rain too fell in torrents, and not only + drenched us to the skin, but loosened the stones on the hillsides, which + then came rolling down upon us. In this comfortless situation we remained + all day, wet, cold, with nothing but dried fish to satisfy our hunger; the + canoes in one place at the mercy of the waves, the baggage in another, and + all the men scattered on floating logs, or sheltering themselves in the + crevices of the rocks and hillsides. A hunter was despatched in hopes of + finding some fresh meat; but the hills were so steep, and so covered with + undergrowth and fallen timber, that he could not penetrate them, and he + was forced to return.” + </p> + <p> + And this is the record for the next day:— + </p> + <p> + “About three o’clock a tremendous gale of wind arose accompanied with + lightning, thunder, and hail: at six it lightened up for a short time, but + a violent rain soon began, and lasted through the day. During the storm, + one of our boats, secured by being sunk with great quantities of stone, + got loose, but, drifting against a rock, was recovered without having + received much injury. Our situation now became much more dangerous, for + the waves were driven with fury against the rocks and trees, which till + now had afforded us refuge: we therefore took advantage of the low tide, + and moved about half a mile round a point to a small brook, which we had + not observed before on account of the thick bushes and driftwood which + concealed its mouth. Here we were more safe, but still cold and wet; our + clothes and bedding rotten as well as wet, our baggage at a distance, and + the canoes, our only means of escape from this place, at the mercy of the + waves. Still, we continued to enjoy good health, and even had the luxury + of feasting on some salmon and three salmon trout which we caught in the + brook. Three of the men attempted to go round a point in our small Indian + canoe, but the high waves rendered her quite unmanageable, these boats + requiring the seamanship of the natives to make them live in so rough a + sea.” + </p> + <p> + It should be borne in mind that the canoes of the explorers were poor + dug-outs, unfit to navigate the turbulent waters of the bay, and the men + were not so expert in that sort of seamanship as were the Indians whom + they, with envy, saw breasting the waves and making short voyages in the + midst of the storms. It continued to rain without any intermission, and + the waves dashed up among the floating logs of the camp in a very + distracting manner. The party now had nothing but dried fish to eat, and + it was with great difficulty that a fire could be built. On the fifteenth + of the month, Captain Lewis having found a better camping-place near a + sandy beach, they started to move their luggage thither; but before they + could get under way, a high wind from the southwest sprung up and they + were forced to remain. But the sun came out and they were enabled to dry + their stuff, much of which had been spoiled by the rain which had + prevailed for the past ten days. Their fish also was no longer fit to eat, + and they were indeed in poor case. Captain Lewis was out on a prospecting + trip, and the party set out and found a beach through which a pleasant + brook flowed to the river, making a very good camping-place. At the mouth + of this stream was an ancient Chinook village, which, says the journal, + “has at present no inhabitants but fleas.” The adventurers were compelled + to steer wide of all old Indian villages, they were so infested with + fleas. At times, so great was the pest, the men were forced to take off + all their clothing and soak themselves and their garments in the river + before they could be rid of the insects. The site of their new camp was at + the southeast end of Baker’s Bay, sometimes called Haley’s Bay, a mile + above a very high point of rocks. On arriving at this place, the voyagers + met with an unpleasant experience of which the journal gives this account:— + </p> + <p> + “Here we met Shannon, who had been sent back to meet us by Captain Lewis. + The day Shannon left us in the canoe, he and Willard proceeded till they + met a party of twenty Indians, who, having never heard of us, did not know + where they (our men) came from; they, however, behaved with so much + civility, and seemed so anxious that the men should go with them toward + the sea, that their suspicions were excited, and they declined going on. + The Indians, however, would not leave them; the men being confirmed in + their suspicions, and fearful that if they went into the woods to sleep + they would be cut to pieces in the night, thought it best to pass the + night in the midst of the Indians. They therefore made a fire, and after + talking with them to a late hour, laid down with their rifles under their + heads. As they awoke that morning they found that the Indians had stolen + and concealed their guns. Having demanded them in vain, Shannon seized a + club, and was about assaulting one of the Indians, whom he suspected as a + thief, when another Indian began to load a fowling-piece with the + intention of shooting him. He therefore stopped, and explained by signs + that if they did not give up the guns a large party would come down the + river before the sun rose to such a height, and put every one of them to + death. Fortunately, Captain Lewis and his party appeared at this time. The + terrified Indians immediately brought the guns, and five of them came on + with Shannon. To these men we declared that if ever any one of their + nation stole anything from us, he should be instantly shot. They reside to + the north of this place, and speak a language different from that of the + people higher up the river. + </p> + <p> + “It was now apparent that the sea was at all times too rough for us to + proceed further down the bay by water. We therefore landed, and having + chosen the best spot we could select, made our camp of boards from the old + (Chinook) village. We were now situated comfortably, and being visited by + four Wahkiacums with wappatoo-roots, were enabled to make an agreeable + addition to our food.” + </p> + <p> + On the seventeenth Captain Lewis with a small party of his men coasted the + bay as far out as Cape Disappointment and some distance to the north along + the seacoast. Game was now plenty, and the camp was supplied with ducks, + geese, and venison. Bad weather again set in. The journal under date of + November 22 says:— + </p> + <p> + “It rained during the whole night, and about daylight a tremendous gale of + wind rose from the S.S.E., and continued through the day with great + violence. The sea ran so high that the water came into our camp, which the + rain prevents us from leaving. We purchased from the old squaw, for + armbands and rings, a few wappatoo-roots, on which we subsisted. They are + nearly equal in flavor to the Irish potato, and afford a very good + substitute for bread. The bad weather drove several Indians to our camp, + but they were still under the terrors of the threat which we made on first + seeing them, and behaved with the greatest decency. + </p> + <p> + “The rain continued through the night, November 23, and the morning was + calm and cloudy. The hunters were sent out, and killed three deer, four + brant, and three ducks. Towards evening seven Clatsops came over in a + canoe, with two skins of the sea-otter. To this article they attached an + extravagant value; and their demands for it were so high, that we were + fearful it would too much reduce our small stock of merchandise, on which + we had to depend for subsistence on our return, to venture on purchasing + it. To ascertain, however, their ideas as to the value of different + objects, we offered for one of these skins a watch, a handkerchief, an + American dollar, and a bunch of red beads; but neither the curious + mechanism of the watch, nor even the red beads, could tempt the owner: he + refused the offer, but asked for tiacomoshack, or chief beads, the most + common sort of coarse blue-colored beads, the article beyond all price in + their estimation. Of these blue beads we had but few, and therefore + reserved them for more necessitous circumstances.” + </p> + <p> + The officers of the expedition had hoped and expected to find here some of + the trading ships that were occasionally sent along the coast to barter + with the natives; but none were to be found. They were soon to prepare for + winter-quarters, and they still hoped that a trader might appear in the + spring before they set out on their homeward journey across the continent. + Very much they needed trinkets to deal with the natives in exchange for, + the needful articles of food on the route. But (we may as well say here) + no such relief ever appeared. It is strange that President Jefferson, in + the midst of his very minute orders and preparations for the benefit of + the explorers, did not think of sending a relief ship to meet the party at + the mouth of the Columbia. They would have been saved a world of care, + worry, and discomfort. But at that time the European nations who held + possessions on the Pacific coast were very suspicious of the Americans, + and possibly President Jefferson did not like to risk rousing their + animosity. + </p> + <p> + The rain that now deluged the unhappy campers was so incessant that they + might well have thought that people should be web-footed to live in such a + watery region. In these later days, Oregon is sometimes known as “The + Web-foot State.” Captain Clark, in his diary, November 28, makes this + entry: “O! how disagreeable is our situation dureing this dreadfull + weather!” The gallant captain’s spelling was sometimes queer. Under that + date he adds:— + </p> + <p> + “We remained during the day in a situation the most cheerless and + uncomfortable. On this little neck of land we are exposed, with a + miserable covering which does not deserve the name of a shelter, to the + violence of the winds; all our bedding and stores, as well as our bodies, + are completely wet; our clothes are rotting with constant exposure, and we + have no food except the dried fish brought from the falls, to which we are + again reduced. The hunters all returned hungry and drenched with rain, + having seen neither deer nor elk, and the swan and brant were too shy to + be approached. At noon the wind shifted to the northwest, and blew with + such tremendous fury that many trees were blown down near us. This gale + lasted with short intervals during the whole night.” + </p> + <p> + Of course, in the midst of such violent storms, it was impossible to get + game, and the men were obliged to resort once more to a diet of dried + fish, This food caused much sickness in the camp, and it became + imperatively necessary that efforts should again be made to find game. On + the second of December, to their great joy an elk was killed, and next day + they had a feast. The journal says; + </p> + <p> + “The wind was from the east and the morning fair; but, as if one whole day + of fine weather were not permitted, toward night it began to rain. Even + this transient glimpse of sunshine revived the spirits of the party, who + were still more pleased when the elk killed yesterday was brought into + camp. This was the first elk we had killed on the west side of the Rocky + Mountains, and condemned as we have been to the dried fish, it formed a + most nourishing food. After eating the marrow of the shank-bones, the + squaw chopped them fine, and by boiling extracted a pint of grease, + superior to the tallow itself of the animal. A canoe of eight Indians, who + were carrying down wappatoo-roots to trade with the Clatsops, stopped at + our camp; we bought a few roots for small fish-hooks, and they then left + us. Accustomed as we were to the sight, we could not but view with + admiration the wonderful dexterity with which they guide their canoes over + the most boisterous seas; for though the waves were so high that before + they had gone half a mile the canoe was several times out of sight, they + proceeded with the greatest calmness and security. Two of the hunters who + set out yesterday had lost their way, and did not return till this + evening. They had seen in their ramble great signs of elk and had killed + six, which they had butchered and left at a great distance. A party was + sent in the morning.” + </p> + <p> + On the third of December Captain Clark carved on the trunk of a great pine + tree this inscription:— + </p> + <p> + “WM. CLARK DECEMBER 3D 1805 BY LAND FROM THE U. STATES IN 1804 & 5.” + </p> + <p> + A few days later, Captain Lewis took with him a small party and set out to + find a suitable spot on which to build their winter camp. He did not + return as soon as he was expected, and considerable uneasiness was felt in + camp on that account. But he came in safely. He brought good news; they + had discovered a river on the south side of the Columbia, not far from + their present encampment, where there were an abundance of elk and a + favorable place for a winter camp. Bad weather detained them until the + seventh of December, when a favorable change enabled them to proceed. They + made their way slowly and very cautiously down-stream, the tide being + against them. The narrative proceeds:— + </p> + <p> + “We at length turned a point, and found ourselves in a deep bay: here we + landed for breakfast, and were joined by the party sent out three days ago + to look for the six elk, killed by the Lewis party. They had lost their + way for a day and a half, and when they at last reached the place, found + the elk so much spoiled that they brought away nothing but the skins of + four of them. After breakfast we coasted round the bay, which is about + four miles across, and receives, besides several small creeks, two rivers, + called by the Indians, the one Kilhowanakel, the other Netul. We named it + Meriwether’s Bay, from the Christian name of Captain Lewis, who was, no + doubt, the first white man who had surveyed it. The wind was high from the + northeast, and in the middle of the day it rained for two hours, and then + cleared off. On reaching the south side of the bay we ascended the Netul + three miles, to the first point of high land on its western bank, and + formed our camp in a thick grove of lofty pines, about two hundred yards + from the water, and thirty feet above the level of the high tides.” + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0018" id="link2HCH0018"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XVIII — Camping by the Pacific + </h2> + <p> + Next in importance to the building of a winter camp was the fixing of a + place where salt could be made. Salt is absolutely necessary for the + comfort of man, and the supply brought out from the United States by the + explorers was now nearly all gone. They were provided with kettles in + which sea-water could be boiled down and salt be made. It would be needful + to go to work at once, for the process of salt-making by boiling in + ordinary kettles is slow and tedious; not only must enough for present + uses be found, but a supply to last the party home again was necessary. + Accordingly, on the eighth of December the journal has this entry to show + what was to be done:— + </p> + <p> + “In order, therefore, to find a place for making salt, and to examine the + country further, Captain Clark set out with five men, and pursuing a + course S. 60'0 W., over a dividing ridge through thick pine timber, much + of which bad fallen, passed the beads of two small brooks. In the + neighborhood of these the land was swampy and overflowed, and they waded + knee-deep till they came to an open ridgy prairie, covered with the plant + known on our frontier by the name of sacacommis (bearberry). Here is a + creek about sixty yards wide and running toward Point Adams; they passed + it on a small raft. At this place they discovered a large herd of elk, and + after pursuing them for three miles over bad swamps and small ponds, + killed one of them. The agility with which the elk crossed the swamps and + bogs seems almost incredible; as we followed their track the ground for a + whole acre would shake at our tread and sometimes we sunk to our hips + without finding any bottom. Over the surface of these bogs is a species of + moss, among which are great numbers of cranberries; and occasionally there + rise from the swamp small steep knobs of earth, thickly covered with pine + and laurel. On one of these we halted at night, but it was scarcely large + enough to suffer us to lie clear of the water, and had very little dry + wood. We succeeded, however, in collecting enough to make a fire; and + having stretched the elk-skin to keep off the rain, which still continued, + slept till morning.” + </p> + <p> + Next day the party were met by three Indians who had been fishing for + salmon, of which they had a goodly supply, and were now on their way home + to their village on the seacoast. They, invited Captain Clark and his men + to accompany them; and the white men accepted the invitation. These were + Clatsops. Their village consisted of twelve families living in houses of + split pine boards, the lower half of the house being underground. By a + small ladder in the middle of the house-front, the visitors reached the + floor, which was about four feet below the surface. Two fires were burning + in the middle of the room upon the earthen floor. The beds were ranged + around the room next to the wall, with spaces beneath them for bags, + baskets, and household articles. + </p> + <p> + Captain Clark was received with much attention, clean mats were spread for + him, and a repast of fish, roots, and berries was set before him. He + noticed that the Clatsops were well dressed and clean, and that they + frequently washed their faces and hands, a ceremony, he remarked, that is + by no means frequent among other Indians. A high wind now prevailed, and + as the evening was stormy, Captain Clark resolved to stay all night with + his hospitable Clatsops. The narrative proceeds:— + </p> + <p> + “The men of the village now collected and began to gamble. The most common + game was one in which one of the company was banker, and played against + all the rest. He had a piece of bone, about the size of a large bean, and + having agreed with any individual as to the value of the stake, would pass + the bone from one hand to the other with great dexterity, singing at the + same time to divert the attention of his adversary; then holding it in his + hands, his antagonist was challenged to guess in which of them the bone + was, and lost or won as he pointed to the right or wrong hand. To this + game of hazard they abandoned themselves with great ardor; sometimes + everything they possess is sacrificed to it; and this evening several of + the Indians lost all the beads which they had with them. This lasted for + three hours; when, Captain Clark appearing disposed to sleep, the man who + had been most attentive, and whose name was Cuskalah, spread two new mats + near the fire, ordered his wife to retire to her own bed, and the rest of + the company dispersed at the same time. Captain Clark then lay down, but + the violence with which the fleas attacked him did not leave his rest + unbroken.” + </p> + <p> + Next morning, Captain Clark walked along the seashore, and he observed + that the Indians were walking up and down, examining the shore and the + margin of a creek that emptied here. The narrative says:— + </p> + <p> + “He was at a loss to understand their object till one of them came to him, + and explained that they were in search of any fish which might have been + thrown on shore and left by the tide, adding in English, ‘sturgeon is very + good.’ There is, indeed, every reason to believe that these Clatsops + depend for their subsistence, during the winter, chiefly on the fish thus + casually thrown on the coast. After amusing himself for some time on the + beach, he returned towards the village, and shot on his way two brant. As + he came near the village, one of the Indians asked him to shoot a duck + about thirty steps distant: he did so, and, having accidentally shot off + its head, the bird was brought to the village, when all the Indians came + round in astonishment. They examined the duck, the musket, and the very + small bullets, which were a hundred to the pound, and then exclaimed, + Clouch musque, waket, commatax musquet: Good musket; do not understand + this kind of musket. They now placed before him their best roots, fish, + and syrup, after which he attempted to purchase a sea-otter skin with some + red beads which he happened to have about him; but they declined trading, + as they valued none except blue or white beads. He therefore bought + nothing but a little berry-bread and a few roots, in exchange for + fish-hooks, and then set out to return by the same route he had come. He + was accompanied by Cuskalah and his brother as far as the third creek, and + then proceeded to the camp through a heavy rain. The whole party had been + occupied during his absence in cutting down trees to make huts, and in + hunting.” + </p> + <p> + This was the occupation of all hands for several days, notwithstanding the + discomfort of the continual downpour. Many of the men were ill from the + effects of sleeping and living so constantly in water. Under date of + December 12, the journal has this entry:— + </p> + <p> + “We continued to work in the rain at our houses. In the evening there + arrived two canoes of Clatsops, among whom was a principal chief, called + Comowol. We gave him a medal and treated his companions with great + attention; after which we began to bargain for a small sea-otter skin, + some wappatoo-roots, and another species of root called shanataque. We + readily perceived that they were close dealers, stickled much for trifles, + and never closed the bargain until they thought they had the advantage. + The wappatoo is dear, as they themselves are obliged to give a high price + for it to the Indians above. Blue beads are the articles most in request; + the white occupy the next place in their estimation; but they do not value + much those of any other color. We succeeded at last in purchasing their + whole cargo for a few fish-hooks and a small sack of Indian tobacco, which + we had received from the Shoshonees.” + </p> + <p> + The winter camp was made up of seven huts, and, although it was not so + carefully fortified as was the fort in the Mandan country (during the + previous winter), it was so arranged that intruders could be kept out when + necessary. For the roofs of these shelters they were provided with + “shakes” split out from a species of pine which they called “balsam pine,” + and which gave them boards, or puncheons, or shakes, ten feet long and two + feet wide, and not more than an inch and a half thick. By the sixteenth of + December their meat-house was finished, and their meat, so much of which + had been spoiled for lack of proper care, was cut up in small pieces and + hung under cover. They had been told by the Indians that very little snow + ever fell in that region, and the weather, although very, very wet, was + mild and usually free from frost. They did have severe hailstorms and a + few flurries of snow in December but the rain was a continual cause of + discomfort. Of the trading habits of the Clatsops the journal has this to + say:— + </p> + <p> + “Three Indians came in a canoe with mats, roots, and the berries of the + sacacommis. These people proceed with a dexterity and finesse in their + bargains which, if they have not learned it from their foreign visitors, + may show how nearly allied is the cunning of savages to the little arts of + traffic. They begin by asking double or treble the value of what they have + to sell, and lower their demand in proportion to the greater or less + degree of ardor or knowledge of the purchaser, who, with all his + management, is not able to procure the article for less than its real + value, which the Indians perfectly understand. Our chief medium of trade + consists of blue and white beads, files,—with which they sharpen + their tools,—fish-hooks, and tobacco; but of all these articles blue + beads and tobacco are the most esteemed.” + </p> + <p> + But, although their surroundings were not of a sort to make one very + jolly, when Christmas came they observed the day as well as they could. + Here is what the journal says of the holiday:— + </p> + <p> + “We were awaked at daylight by a discharge of firearms, which was followed + by a song from the men, as a compliment to us on the return of Christmas, + which we have always been accustomed to observe as a day of rejoicing. + After breakfast we divided our remaining stock of tobacco, which amounted + to twelve carrots (hands), into two parts; one of which we distributed + among such of the party as make use of it, making a present of a + handkerchief to the others. The remainder of the day was passed in good + spirits, though there was nothing in our situation to excite much gayety. + The rain confined us to the house, and our only luxuries in honor of the + season were some poor elk, so much spoiled that we ate it through sheer + necessity, a few roots, and some spoiled pounded fish. + </p> + <p> + “The next day brought a continuation of rain, accompanied with thunder, + and a high wind from the southeast. We were therefore obliged to still + remain in our huts, and endeavored to dry our wet articles before the + fire. The fleas, which annoyed us near the portage of the Great Falls, + have taken such possession of our clothes that we are obliged to have a + regular search every day through our blankets as a necessary preliminary + to sleeping at night. These animals, indeed, are so numerous that they are + almost a calamity to the Indians of this country. When they have once + obtained the mastery of any house it is impossible to expel them, and the + Indians have frequently different houses, to which they resort + occasionally when the fleas have rendered their permanent residence + intolerable; yet, in spite of these precautions, every Indian is + constantly attended by multitudes of them, and no one comes into our house + without leaving behind him swarms of these tormenting insects.” + </p> + <p> + Although the condition of the exploring party was low, the men did not + require very much to put them in good spirits. The important and happy + event of finishing their fort and the noting of good weather are thus set + forth in the journal under date of December 30:— + </p> + <p> + “Toward evening the hunters brought in four elk (which Drewyer had + killed), and after a long course of abstinence and miserable diet, we had + a most sumptuous supper of elk’s tongues and marrow. Besides this + agreeable repast, the state of the weather was quite exhilarating. It had + rained during the night, but in the morning, though the high wind + continued, we enjoyed the fairest and most pleasant weather since our + arrival; the sun having shone at intervals, and there being only three + showers in the course of the day. By sunset we had completed the + fortification, and now announced to the Indians that every day at that + hour the gates would be closed, and they must leave the fort and not enter + it till sunrise. The Wahkiacums who remained with us, and who were very + forward in their deportment, complied very reluctantly with this order; + but, being excluded from our houses, formed a camp near us. . . . + </p> + <p> + “January 1, 1806. We were awaked at an early hour by the discharge of a + volley of small arms, to salute the new year. This was the only mode of + commemorating the day which our situation permitted; for, though we had + reason to be gayer than we were at Christmas, our only dainties were + boiled elk and wappatoo, enlivened by draughts of pure water. We were + visited by a few Clatsops, who came by water, bringing roots and berries + for sale. Among this nation we observed a man about twenty-five years old, + of a much lighter complexion than the Indians generally: his face was even + freckled, and his hair long, and of a colour inclining to red. He was in + habits and manners perfectly Indian; but, though he did not speak a word + of English, he seemed to understand more than the others of his party; + and, as we could obtain no account of his origin, we concluded that one of + his parents, at least, must have been white.” + </p> + <p> + A novel addition to their bill of fare was fresh blubber, or fat, from a + stranded whale. Under date of January 3 the journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “At eleven o’clock we were visited by our neighbor, the Tia or chief, + Comowool, who is also called Coone, and six Clatsops. Besides roots and + berries, they brought for sale three dogs, and some fresh blubber. Having + been so long accustomed to live on the flesh of dogs, the greater part of + us have acquired a fondness for it, and our original aversion for it is + overcome, by reflecting that while we subsisted on that food we were + fatter, stronger, and in general enjoyed better health than at any period + since leaving the buffalo country, eastward of the mountains. The blubber, + which is esteemed by the Indians an excellent food, has been obtained, + they tell us, from their neighbors, the Killamucks, a nation who live on + the seacoast to the southeast, near one of whose villages a whale had + recently been thrown and foundered.” + </p> + <p> + Five men had been sent out to form a camp on the seashore and go into the + manufacture of salt as expeditiously as possible. On the fifth of January, + two of them came into the fort bringing a gallon of salt, which was + decided to be “white, fine and very good,” and a very agreeable addition + to their food, which had been eaten perfectly fresh for some weeks past. + Captain Clark, however, said it was a “mere matter of indifference” to him + whether he had salt or not, but he hankered for bread. Captain Lewis, on + the other hand, said the lack of salt was a great inconvenience; “the want + of bread I consider trivial,” was his dictum. It was estimated that the + salt-makers could turn out three or four quarts a day, and there was good + prospect of an abundant supply for present needs and for the homeward + journey. An expedition to the seashore was now planned, and the journal + goes on to tell how they set out:— + </p> + <p> + “The appearance of the whale seemed to be a matter of importance to all + the neighboring Indians, and as we might be able to procure some of it for + ourselves, or at least purchase blubber from the Indians, a small parcel + of merchandise was prepared, and a party of the men held in readiness to + set out in the morning. As soon as this resolution was known, Chaboneau + and his wife requested that they might be permitted to accompany us. The + poor woman stated very earnestly that she had travelled a great way with + us to see the great water, yet she had never been down to the coast, and + now that this monstrous fish was also to be seen, it seemed hard that she + should be permitted to see neither the ocean nor the whale. So reasonable + a request could not be denied; they were therefore suffered to accompany + Captain Clark, who, January 6th, after an early breakfast, set out with + twelve men in two canoes.” + </p> + <p> + After a long and tedious trip, the camp of the saltmakers was reached, and + Captain Clark and his men went on to the remains of the whale, only the + skeleton being left by the rapacious and hungry Indians. The whale had + been stranded between two shore villages tenanted by the Killamucks, as + Captain Clark called them. They are now known as the Tillamook Indians, + and their name is preserved in Tillamook County, Oregon. The white men + found it difficult to secure much of the blubber, or the oil. Although the + Indians had large quantities of both, they sold it with much reluctance. + In Clark’s private diary is found this entry: “Small as this stock (of oil + and lubber) is I prize it highly; and thank Providence for directing the + whale to us; and think him more kind to us than he was to Jonah, having + sent this monster to be swallowed by us instead of swallowing us as + Jonah’s did.” While here, the party had a startling experience, as the + journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “Whilst smoking with the Indians, Captain Clark was surprised, about ten + o’clock, by a loud, shrill outcry from the opposite village, on hearing + which all the Indians immediately started up to cross the creek, and the + guide informed him that someone had been killed. On examination one of the + men (M’Neal) was discovered to be absent, and a guard (Sergeant Pryor and + four men) despatched, who met him crossing the creek in great haste. An + Indian belonging to another band, who happened to be with the Killamucks + that evening, had treated him with much kindness, and walked arm in arm + with him to a tent where our man found a Chinnook squaw, who was an old + acquaintance. From the conversation and manner of the stranger, this woman + discovered that his object was to murder the white man for the sake of the + few articles on his person; when he rose and pressed our man to go to + another tent where they would find something better to eat, she held + M’Neal by the blanket; not knowing her object, he freed himself from her, + and was going on with his pretended friend, when she ran out and gave the + shriek which brought the men of the village over, and the stranger ran off + before M’Neal knew what had occasioned the alarm.” + </p> + <p> + The “mighty hunter” of the Lewis and Clark expedition was Drewyer, whose + name has frequently been mentioned in these pages. Under date of January + 12, the journal has this just tribute to the man:— + </p> + <p> + “Our meat is now becoming scarce; we therefore determined to jerk it, and + issue it in small quantities, instead of dividing it among the four + messes, and leaving to each the care of its own provisions; a plan by + which much is lost, in consequence of the improvidence of the men. Two + hunters had been despatched in the morning, and one of them, Drewyer, had + before evening killed seven elk. We should scarcely be able to subsist, + were it not for the exertions of this most excellent hunter. The game is + scarce, and nothing is now to be seen except elk, which for almost all the + men are very difficult to be procured; but Drewyer, who is the offspring + of a Canadian Frenchman and an Indian woman, has passed his life in the + woods, and unites, in a wonderful degree, the dexterous aim of the + frontier huntsman with the intuitive sagacity of the Indian, in pursuing + the faintest tracks through the forest. All our men, however, have indeed + become so expert with the rifle that we are never under apprehensions as + to food; since, whenever there is game of any kind, we are almost certain + of procuring it.” + </p> + <p> + The narrative of the explorers gives this account of the Chinooks:— + </p> + <p> + “The men are low in stature, rather ugly, and ill made; their legs being + small and crooked, their feet large, and their heads, like those of the + women, flattened in a most disgusting manner. These deformities are in + part concealed by robes made of sea-otter, deer, elk, beaver or fox skins. + They also employ in their dress robes of the skin of a cat peculiar to + this country, and of another animal of the same size, which is light and + durable, and sold at a high price by the Indians who bring it from above. + In addition to these are worn blankets, wrappers of red, blue, or spotted + cloth, and some old sailors’ clothes, which are very highly prized. The + greater part of the men have guns, with powder and ball. + </p> + <p> + “The women have in general handsome faces, but are low and + disproportioned, with small feet and large legs, occasioned, probably, by + strands of beads, or various strings, drawn so tight above the ankles as + to prevent the circulation of the blood. Their dress, like that of the + Wahkiacums, consists of a short robe and a tissue of cedar bark. Their + hair hangs loosely down the shoulders and back; and their ears, neck, and + wrists are ornamented with blue beads. Another decoration, which is very + highly prized, consists of figures made by puncturing the arms or legs; + and on the arms of one of the squaws we observed the name of J. Bowman, + executed in the same way. In language, habits, and in almost every other + particular, they resemble the Clatsops, Cathlamahs, and, indeed, all the + people near the mouth of the Columbia, though they appeared to be inferior + to their neighbors in honesty as well as spirit. No ill treatment or + indignity on our part seemed to excite any feeling except fear; nor, + although better provided than their neighbors with arms, have they + enterprise enough either to use them advantageously against the animals of + the forest, or offensively against the tribes near them, who owe their + safety more to the timidity than the forbearance of the Chinooks. We had + heard instances of pilfering while we were among them, and therefore gave + a general order excluding them from our encampment, so that whenever an + Indian wished to visit us, he began by calling out ‘No Chinook.’ It is not + improbable that this first impression may have left a prejudice against + them, since, when we were among the Clatsops and other tribes at the mouth + of the Columbia, they had less opportunity of stealing, if they were so + disposed.” + </p> + <p> + The weeks remaining before the party set out on their return were passed + without notable incident. The journal is chiefly occupied with comments on + the weather, which was variable, and some account of the manners and + customs of the Indian tribes along the Columbia River. At that time, so + few traders had penetrated the wilds of the Lower Columbia that the + Indians were not supplied with firearms to any great extent. Their main + reliance was the bow and arrow. A few shotguns were seen among them, but + no rifles, and great was the admiration and wonder with which the Indians + saw the white men slay birds and animals at a long distance. Pitfalls for + elk were constructed by the side of fallen trees over which the animals + might leap. Concerning the manufactures of the Clatsops, they reported as + follows:— + </p> + <p> + “Their hats are made of cedar-bark and bear-grass, interwoven together in + the form of a European hat, with a small brim of about two inches, and a + high crown widening upward. They are light, ornamented with various colors + and figures, and being nearly water-proof, are much more durable than + either chip or straw hats. These hats form a small article of traffic with + the whites, and their manufacture is one of the best exertions of Indian + industry. They are, however, very dexterous in making a variety of + domestic utensils, among which are bowls, spoons, scewers (skewers), + spits, and baskets. The bowl or trough is of different shapes—round, + semicircular, in the form of a canoe, or cubic, and generally dug out of a + single piece of wood; the larger vessels have holes in the sides by way of + handles, and all are executed with great neatness. In these vessels they + boil their food, by throwing hot stones into the water, and extract oil + from different animals in the same way. Spoons are not very abundant, nor + is there anything remarkable in their shape, except that they are large + and the bowl broad. Meat is roasted on one end of a sharp skewer, placed + erect before the fire, with the other end fixed in the ground. + </p> + <p> + “But the most curious workmanship is that of the basket. It is formed of + cedar-bark and bear-grass, so closely interwoven that it is water-tight, + without the aid of either gum or resin. The form is generally conic, or + rather the segment (frustum) of a cone, of which the smaller end is the + bottom of the basket; and being made of all sizes, from that of the + smallest cup to the capacity of five or six gallons, they answer the + double purpose of a covering for the head or to contain water. Some of + them are highly ornamented with strands of bear-grass, woven into figures + of various colors, which require great labor; yet they are made very + expeditiously and sold for a trifle. It is for the construction of these + baskets that the bear-grass forms an article of considerable traffic. It + grows only near the snowy region of the high mountains; the blade, which + is two feet long and about three-eighths of an inch wide, is smooth, + strong, and pliant; the young blades particularly, from their not being + exposed to the sun and air, have an appearance of great neatness, and are + generally preferred. Other bags and baskets, not waterproof, are made of + cedar-bark, silk-grass, rushes, flags, and common coarse sedge, for the + use of families. In these manufactures, as in the ordinary work of the + house, the instrument most in use is a knife, or rather a dagger. The + handle of it is small, and has a strong loop of twine for the thumb, to + prevent its being wrested from the band. On each side is a blade, + double-edged and pointed; the longer from nine to ten inches, the shorter + from four to five. This knife is carried habitually in the hand, sometimes + exposed, but mostly, when in company with strangers, is put under the + robe.” + </p> + <p> + Naturally, all of the Columbia River Indians were found to be expert in + the building and handling of canoes. Here their greatest skill was + employed. And, it may be added, the Indians of the North Pacific coast + to-day are equally adept and skilful. The canoes of the present race of + red men do not essentially differ from those of the tribes described by + Lewis and Clark, and who are now extinct. The Indians then living above + tide-water built canoes of smaller size than those employed by the nations + farther down the river. The canoes of the Tillamooks and other tribes + living on the seacoast were upwards of fifty feet long, and would carry + eight or ten thousand pounds’ weight, or twenty-five or thirty persons. + These were constructed from the trunk of a single tree, usually white + cedar. The bow and stern rose much higher than the gunwale, and were + adorned by grotesque figures excellently well carved and fitted to + pedestals cut in the solid wood of the canoe. The same method of adornment + may be seen among the aborigines of Alaska and other regions of the North + Pacific, to-day. The figures are made of small pieces of wood neatly + fitted together by inlaying and mortising, without any spike of any kind. + When one reflects that the Indians seen by Lewis and Clark constructed + their large canoes with very poor tools, it is impossible to withhold + one’s admiration of their industry and patience. The journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “Our admiration of their skill in these curious constructions was + increased by observing the very inadequate implements which they use. + These Indians possess very few axes, and the only tool they employ, from + felling the tree to the delicate workmanship of the images, is a chisel + made of an old file, about an inch or an inch and a half in width. Even of + this, too, they have not learned the proper management; for the chisel is + sometimes fixed in a large block of wood, and, being held in the right + hand, the block is pushed with the left, without the aid of a mallet. But + under all these disadvantages, their canoes, which one would suppose to be + the work of years, are made in a few weeks. A canoe, however, is very + highly prized, being in traffic an article of the greatest value except a + wife, and of equal value with her; so that a lover generally gives a canoe + to the father in exchange for his daughter. . . . + </p> + <p> + “The harmony of their private life is secured by their ignorance of + spirituous liquors, the earliest and most dreadful present which + civilization has given to the other natives of the continent. Although + they have had so much intercourse with whites, they do not appear to + possess any knowledge of those dangerous luxuries; at least they have + never inquired after them, which they probably would have done if once + liquors bad been introduced among them. Indeed, we have not observed any + liquor of intoxicating quality among these or any Indians west of the + Rocky Mountains, the universal beverage being pure water. They, however, + sometimes almost intoxicate themselves by smoking tobacco, of which they + are excessively fond, and the pleasures of which they prolong as much as + possible, by retaining vast quantities at a time, till after circulating + through the lungs and stomach it issues in volumes from the mouth and + nostrils.” + </p> + <p> + A long period of quiet prevailed in camp after the first of February, + before the final preparations for departure were made. Parties were sent + out every day to hunt, and the campers were able to command a few days’ + supply of provision in advance. The flesh of the deer was now very lean + and poor, but that of the elk was growing better and better. It was + estimated by one of the party that they killed, between December 1, 1805, + and March 20, 1806, elk to the number of one hundred and thirty-one, and + twenty deer. Some of this meat they smoked for its better preservation, + but most of it was eaten fresh. No record was kept of the amount of fish + consumed by the party; but they were obliged at times to make fish their + sole article of diet. Late in February they were visited by Comowool, the + principal Clatsop chief, who brought them a sturgeon and quantities of a + small fish which had just begun to make its appearance in the Columbia. + This was known as the anchovy, but oftener as the candle-fish; it is so + fat that it may be burned like a torch, or candle. The journal speaks of + Comowool as “by far the most friendly and decent savage we have seen in + this neighborhood.” + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0019" id="link2HCH0019"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XIX — With Faces turned Homeward + </h2> + <p> + The officers of the expedition had decided to begin their homeward march + on the first of April; but a natural impatience induced them to start a + little earlier, and, as a matter of record, it may be said that they + evacuated Fort Clatsop on the 23d of March, 1806. An examination of their + stock of ammunition showed that they had on hand a supply of powder amply + sufficient for their needs when travelling the three thousand miles of + wilderness in which their sole reliance for food must be the game to be + killed. The powder was kept in leaden canisters, and these, when empty, + were used for making balls for muskets and rifles. Three bushels of salt + were collected for their use on the homeward journey. + </p> + <p> + What they needed now most of all was an assortment of small wares and + trinkets with which to trade with the Indians among whom they must spend + so many months before reaching civilization again. They had ample letters + of credit from the Government at Washington, and if they had met with + white traders on the seacoast, they could have bought anything that money + would buy. They had spent nearly all their stock in coming across the + continent. This is Captain Lewis’s summary of the goods on hand just + before leaving Fort Clatsop:— + </p> + <p> + “All the small merchandise we possess might be tied up in a couple of + handkerchiefs. The rest of our stock in trade consists of six blue robes, + one scarlet ditto, five robes which we made out of our large United States + flag, a few old clothes trimmed with ribbons, and one artillerist’s + uniform coat and hat, which probably Captain Clark will never wear again. + We have to depend entirely upon this meagre outfit for the purchase of + such horses and provisions as it will be in our power to obtain—a + scant dependence, indeed, for such a journey as is before us.” + </p> + <p> + One of their last acts was to draw up a full list of the members of the + party, and, making several copies of it, to leave these among the friendly + Indians with instructions to give a paper to the first white men who + should arrive in the country. On the back of the paper was traced the + track by which the explorers had come and that by which they expected to + return. This is a copy of one of these important documents:— + </p> + <p> + “The object of this list is, that through the medium of some civilized + person who may see the same, it may be made known to the informed world, + that the party consisting of the persons whose names are hereunto annexed, + and who were sent out by the government of the U’States in May, 1804, to + explore the interior of the Continent of North America, did penetrate the + same by way of the Missouri and Columbia Rivers, to the discharge of the + latter into the Pacific Ocean, where they arrived on the 14th of November, + 1805, and from whence they departed the 23d day of March, 1806, on their + return to the United States by the same rout they had come out.” + </p> + <p> + Curiously enough, one of these papers did finally reach the United States. + During the summer of 1806, the brig “Lydia,” Captain Hill, entered the + Columbia for the purpose of trading with the natives. From one of these + Captain Hill secured the paper, which he took to Canton, China, in + January, 1807. Thence it was sent to a gentleman in Philadelphia, having + travelled nearly all the way round the world. + </p> + <p> + Fort Clatsop, as they called the rude collection of huts in which they had + burrowed all winter, with its rude furniture and shelters, was formally + given to Comowool, the Clatsop chief who had been so kind to the party. + Doubtless the crafty savage had had his eye on this establishment, knowing + that it was to be abandoned in the spring. + </p> + <p> + The voyagers left Fort Clatsop about one o’clock in the day, and, after + making sixteen miles up the river, camped for the night. Next day, they + reached an Indian village where they purchased “some wappatoo and a dog + for the invalids.” They still had several men on the sick list in + consequence of the hard fare of the winter. The weather was cold and wet, + and wood for fuel was difficult to obtain. In a few days they found + themselves among their old friends, the Skilloots, who had lately been at + war with the Chinooks. There was no direct intercourse between the two + nations as yet, but the Chinooks traded with the Clatsops and Wahkiacums, + and these in turn traded with the Skilloots, and in this way the two + hostile tribes exchanged the articles which they had for those which they + desired. The journal has this to say about the game of an island on which + the explorers tarried for a day or two, in order to dry their goods and + mend their canoes:— + </p> + <p> + “This island, which has received from the Indians the appropriate name of + Elalah (Elallah), or Deer Island, is surrounded on the water-side by an + abundant growth of cottonwood, ash, and willow, while the interior + consists chiefly of prairies interspersed with ponds. These afford refuge + to great numbers of geese, ducks, large swan, sandhill cranes, a few + canvas-backed ducks, and particularly the duckinmallard, the most abundant + of all. There are also great numbers of snakes resembling our + garter-snakes in appearance, and like them not poisonous. Our hunters + brought in three deer, a goose, some ducks, an eagle, and a tiger-cat. + Such is the extreme voracity of the vultures, that they had devoured in + the space of a few hours four of the deer killed this morning; and one of + our men declared that they had besides dragged a large buck about thirty + yards, skinned it, and broken the backbone.” + </p> + <p> + The vulture here referred to is better known as the California condor, a + great bird of prey which is now so nearly extinct that few specimens are + ever seen, and the eggs command a great price from those who make + collections of such objects. A condor killed by one of the hunters of the + Lewis and Clark expedition measured nine feet and six inches from tip to + tip of its wings, three feet and ten inches from the point of the bill to + the end of the tail, and six inches and a half from the back of the head + to the tip of the beak. Very few of the condors of the Andes are much + larger than this, though one measuring eleven feet from tip to tip has + been reported. + </p> + <p> + While camped at Quicksand, or Sandy River, the party learned that food + supplies up the Columbia were scarce. The journal says that the Indians + met here were descending the river in search of food. It adds:— + </p> + <p> + “They told us, that they lived at the Great Rapids; but that the scarcity + of provisions there had induced them to come down, in the hopes of finding + subsistence in the more fertile valley. All the people living at the + Rapids, as well as the nations above them, were in much distress for want + of food, having consumed their winter store of dried fish, and not + expecting the return of the salmon before the next full moon, which would + be on the second of May: this information was not a little embarrassing. + From the Falls to the Chopunnish nation, the plains afforded neither deer, + elk, nor antelope for our subsistence. The horses were very poor at this + season, and the dogs must be in the same condition, if their food, the + dried fish, had failed. Still, it was obviously inexpedient for us to wait + for the return of the salmon, since in that case we might not reach the + Missouri before the ice would prevent our navigating it. We might, + besides, hazard the loss of our horses, as the Chopunnish, with whom we + had left them, would cross the mountains as early as possible, or about + the beginning of May, and take our horses with them, or suffer them to + disperse, in either of which cases the passage of the mountains will be + almost impracticable. We therefore, after much deliberation, decided to + remain where we were till we could collect meat enough to last us till we + should reach the Chopunnish nation, and to obtain canoes from the natives + as we ascended, either in exchange for our pirogues, or by purchasing them + with skins and merchandise. These canoes, again, we might exchange for + horses with the natives of the plains, till we should obtain enough to + travel altogether by land. On reaching the southeast branch of the + Columbia, four or five men could be sent on to the Chopunnish to have our + horses in readiness; and thus we should have a stock of horses sufficient + both to transport our baggage and supply us with food, as we now perceived + that they would form our only certain dependance for subsistence.” + </p> + <p> + On the third of April this entry is made:— + </p> + <p> + “A considerable number of Indians crowded about us to-day, many of whom + came from the upper part of the river. These poor wretches confirm the + reports of scarcity among the nations above; which, indeed, their + appearance sufficiently proved, for they seemed almost starved, and + greedily picked the bones and refuse meat thrown away by us. + </p> + <p> + “In the evening Captain Clark returned from an excursion. On setting out + yesterday at half-past eleven o’clock, he directed his course along the + south side of the (Columbia) river, where, at the distance of eight miles, + he passed a village of the Nechacohee tribe, belonging to the Eloot + nation. The village itself is small, and being situated behind Diamond + Island, was concealed from our view as we passed both times along the + northern shore. He continued till three o’clock, when he landed at the + single house already mentioned as the only remains of a village of + twenty-four straw huts. Along the shore were great numbers of small canoes + for gathering wappatoo, which were left by the Shahalas, who visit the + place annually. The present inhabitants of the house are part of the + Neerchokioo tribe of the same (Shahala) nation. On entering one of the + apartments of the house, Captain Clark offered several articles to the + Indians in exchange for wappatoo; but they appeared sullen and + ill-humored, and refused to give him any. He therefore sat down by the + fire opposite the men, and taking a port-fire match from his pocket, threw + a small piece of it into the flame; at the same time he took his + pocket-compass, and by means of a magnet, which happened to be in his + inkhorn, made the needle turn round very briskly. The match now took fire + and burned violently, on which the Indians, terrified at this strange + exhibition, immediately brought a quantity of wappatoo and laid it at his + feet, begging him to put out the bad fire, while an old woman continued to + speak with great vehemence, as if praying and imploring protection. Having + received the roots, Captain Clark put up the compass, and as the match + went out of itself tranquillity was restored, though the women and + children still took refuge in their beds and behind the men. He now paid + them for what he had used, and after lighting his pipe and smoking with + them, continued down the river.” + </p> + <p> + The excursion from which Captain Clark had returned, as noted in this + extract, was up the Multnomah River. As we have already seen, the + explorers missed that stream when they came down the Columbia; and they + had now passed it again unnoticed, owing to the number of straggling + islands that hide its junction with the Columbia. Convinced that a + considerable river must drain the region to the south, Captain Clark went + back alone and penetrating the intricate channels among the islands, found + the mouth of the Multnomah, now better known as the Willamette. He was + surprised to find that the depth of water in the river was so great that + large vessels might enter it. He would have been much more surprised if he + had been told that a large city, the largest in Oregon, would some day be + built on the site of the Indian huts which he saw. Here Captain Clark + found a house occupied by several families of the Neechecolee nation. + Their mansion was two hundred and twenty-six feet long and was divided + into apartments thirty feet square. + </p> + <p> + The most important point in this region of the Columbia was named Wappatoo + Island by the explorers. This is a large extent of country lying between + the Willamette and an arm of the Columbia which they called Wappatoo + Inlet, but which is now known as Willamette Slough. It is twenty miles + long and from five to ten miles wide. Here is an interesting description + of the manner of gathering the roots of the wappatoo, of which we have + heard so much in this region of country:— + </p> + <p> + “The chief wealth of this island consists of the numerous ponds in the + interior, abounding with the common arrowhead (sagittaria sagittifolia) to + the root of which is attached a bulb growing beneath it in the mud. This + bulb, to which the Indians give the name of wappatoo,(1) is the great + article of food, and almost the staple article of commerce on the + Columbia. It is never out of season; so that at all times of the year the + valley is frequented by the neighboring Indians who come to gather it. It + is collected chiefly by the women, who employ for the purpose canoes from + ten to fourteen feet in length, about two feet wide and nine inches deep, + and tapering from the middle, where they are about twenty inches wide. + They are sufficient to contain a single person and several bushels of + roots, yet so very light that a woman can carry them with ease. She takes + one of these canoes into a pond where the water is as high as the breast, + and by means of her toes separates from the root this bulb, which on being + freed from the mud rises immediately to the surface of the water, and is + thrown into the canoe. In this manner these patient females remain in the + water for several hours, even in the depth of winter. This plant is found + through the whole extent of the valley in which we now are, but does not + grow on the Columbia farther eastward.” + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + (1) In the Chinook jargon “Wappatoo” stands for potato. +</pre> + <p> + The natives of this inland region, the explorers found, were larger and + better-shaped than those of the sea-coast, but they were nearly all + afflicted with sore eyes. The loss of one eye was common, and not + infrequently total blindness was observed in men of mature years, while + blindness was almost universal among the old people. The white men made + good use of the eye-water which was among their supplies; it was + gratefully received by the natives and won them friends among the people + they met. On the fifth of April the journal has this entry:— + </p> + <p> + “In the course of his chase yesterday, one of our men (Collins), who had + killed a bear, found the den of another with three cubs in it. He returned + to-day in hopes of finding her, but brought only the cubs, without being + able to see the dam; and on this occasion Drewyer, our most experienced + huntsman, assured us that he had never known a single instance where a + female bear, which had once been disturbed by a hunter and obliged to + leave her young, returned to them again. The young bears were sold for + wappatoo to some of the many Indians who visited us in parties during the + day and behaved very well.” + </p> + <p> + And on the ninth is this entry:— + </p> + <p> + “The wind having moderated, we reloaded the canoes and set out by seven + o’clock. We stopped to take up the two hunters who left us yesterday, but + were unsuccessful in the chase, and then proceeded to the Wahclellah + village, situated on the north side of the river, about a mile below + Beacon Rock. During the whole of the route from camp we passed along under + high, steep, and rocky sides of the mountains, which now close on each + side of the river, forming stupendous precipices, covered with fir and + white cedar. Down these heights frequently descend the most beautiful + cascades, one of which, a large creek, throws itself over a perpendicular + rock three hundred feet above the water, while other smaller streams + precipitate themselves from a still greater elevation, and evaporating in + a mist, collect again and form a second cascade before they reach the + bottom of the rocks. We stopped to breakfast at this village. We here + found the tomahawk which had been stolen from us on the fourth of last + November. They assured us they had bought it of the Indians below; but as + the latter had already informed us that the Wahclellahs had such an + article, which they had stolen, we made no difficulty about retaking our + property.” + </p> + <p> + The Columbia along the region through which the expedition was now passing + is a very wild and picturesque stream. The banks are high and rocky, and + some of the precipices to which the journal refers are of a vast + perpendicular height. On the Oregon side of the river are five cascades + such as those which the journal mentions. The most famous and beautiful of + these is known as Multnomah Falls. This cataract has a total fall of more + than six hundred feet, divided into two sections. The other cascades are + the Bridal Veil, the Horsetail, the Latourelle, and the Oneonta, and all + are within a few miles of each other. + </p> + <p> + On the ninth of April the voyagers reached the point at which they were to + leave tidewater, fifty-six miles above the mouth of the Multnomah, or + Willamette. They were now at the entrance of the great rapids which are + known as the Cascades of the Columbia, and which occupy a space on the + river about equal to four miles and a half. They were still navigating the + stream with their canoes, camping sometimes on the north side and + sometimes on the south side of the river. This time they camped on the + north side, and during the night lost one of their boats, which got loose + and drifted down to the next village of the Wahclellahs, some of whom + brought it back to the white men’s camp and were rewarded for their + honesty by a present of two knives. It was found necessary to make a + portage here, but a long and severe rainstorm set in, and the tents and + the skins used for protecting the baggage were soaked. The journal goes on + with the narrative thus:— + </p> + <p> + We determined to take the canoes first over the portage, in hopes that by + the afternoon the rain would cease, and we might carry our baggage across + without injury. This was immediately begun by almost the whole party, who + in the course of the day dragged four of the canoes to the head of the + rapids, with great difficulty and labor. A guard, consisting of one sick + man and three who had been lamed by accidents, remained with Captain Lewis + (and a cook) to guard the baggage. This precaution was absolutely + necessary to protect it from the Wahclellahs, whom we discovered to be + great thieves, notwithstanding their apparent honesty in restoring our + boat; indeed, so arrogant and intrusive have they become that nothing but + our numbers, we are convinced, saves us from attack. They crowded about us + while we were taking up the boats, and one of them had the insolence to + throw stones down the bank at two of our men. + </p> + <p> + “We now found it necessary to depart from our mild and pacific course of + conduct. On returning to the head of the portage, many of them met our men + and seemed very ill-disposed. Shields had stopped to purchase a dog, and + being separated from the rest of the party, two Indians pushed him out of + the road, and attempted to take the dog from him. He had no weapon but a + long knife, with which he immediately attacked them both, hoping to put + them to death before they had time to draw their arrows; but as soon as + they saw his design they fled into the woods. Soon afterward we were told + by an Indian who spoke Clatsop, which we had ourselves learned during the + winter, that the Wahclellahs had carried off Captain Lewis’ dog to their + village below. Three men well armed were instantly despatched in pursuit + of them, with orders to fire if there was the slightest resistance or + hesitation. At the distance of two miles they came within sight of the + thieves, who, finding themselves pursued, left the dog and made off. We + now ordered all the Indians out of our camp, and explained to them that + whoever stole any of our baggage, or insulted our men, should be instantly + shot; a resolution which we were determined to enforce, as it was now our + only means of safety. + </p> + <p> + “We were visited during the day by a chief of the Clahclellahs, who seemed + mortified at the behavior of the Indians, and told us that the persons at + the head of their outrages were two very bad men who belonged to the + Wahclellah tribe, but that the nation did not by any means wish to + displease us. This chief seemed very well-disposed, and we had every + reason to believe was much respected by the neighboring Indians. We + therefore gave him a small medal and showed him all the attention in our + power, with which he appeared very much gratified.” + </p> + <p> + The portage of these rapids was very difficult and tiresome. The total + distance of the first stage was twenty-eight hundred yards along a narrow + way rough with rocks and now slippery with rain. One of the canoes was + lost here by being driven out into the strong current, where the force of + the water was so great that it could not be held by the men; the frail + skiff drifted down the rapids and disappeared. They now had two canoes and + two periogues left, and the loads were divided among these craft. This + increased the difficulties of navigation, and Captain Lewis crossed over + to the south side of the river in search of canoes to be purchased from + the Indians, who lived in a village on that side of the stream. The + narrative continues: + </p> + <p> + “The village now consisted of eleven houses, crowded with inhabitants, and + about sixty fighting men. They were very well disposed, and we found no + difficulty in procuring two small canoes, in exchange for two robes and + four elk-skins. He also purchased with deer-skins three dogs,—an + animal which has now become a favorite food, for it is found to be a + strong, healthy diet, preferable to lean deer or elk, and much superior to + horseflesh in any state. With these he proceeded along the south side of + the river, and joined us in the evening.” + </p> + <p> + Above the rapids the party encountered two tribes of Indians from whom + they endeavored to buy horses, for they were now approaching a point when + they must leave the river and travel altogether by land. One of these + tribes was known as the Weocksockwillacurns, and the other was the + Chilluckittequaws. These jaw-breaking names are commended to those who + think that the Indian names of northern Maine are difficult to handle. + Trees were now growing scarcer, and the wide lowlands spread out before + the explorers stretched to the base of the Bitter Root Mountains without + trees, but covered with luxuriant grass and herbage. After being confined + so long to the thick forests and mountains of the seacoast, the party + found this prospect very exhilarating, notwithstanding the absence of + forests and thickets. The climate, too, was much more agreeable than that + to which they had lately been accustomed, being dry and pure. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0020" id="link2HCH0020"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XX — The Last Stage of the Columbia + </h2> + <p> + On the thirteenth of April the party reached the series of falls and + rapids which they called the Long Narrows. At the point reached the river + is confined, for a space of about fourteen miles, to narrow channels and + rocky falls. The Long Narrows are now known as the Dalles. The word + “dalles” is French, and signifies flagstones, such as are used for + sidewalks. Many of the rocks in these narrows are nearly flat on top, and + even the precipitous banks look like walls of rock. At the upper end of + the rapids, or dalles, is Celilo City, and at the lower end is Dalles + City, sometimes known as “The Dalles.” Both of these places are in Oregon; + the total fall of the water from Celilo to the Dalles is over eighty feet. + Navigation of these rapids is impossible. As the explorers had no further + use for their pirogues, they broke them up for fuel. The merchandise was + laboriously carried around on the river bank. They were able to buy four + horses from the Skilloots for which they paid well in goods. It was now + nearly time for the salmon to begin to run, and under date of April 19 the + journal has this entry:— + </p> + <p> + “The whole village was filled with rejoicing to-day at having caught a + single salmon, which was considered as the harbinger of vast quantities in + four or five days. In order to hasten their arrival the Indians, according + to custom, dressed the fish and cut it into small pieces, one of which was + given to each child in the village. In the good humor excited by this + occurrence they parted, though reluctantly, with four other horses, for + which we gave them two kettles, reserving only a single small one for a + mess of eight men. Unluckily, however, we lost one of the horses by the + negligence of the person to whose charge he was committed. The rest were, + therefore, hobbled and tied; but as the nations here do not understand + gelding, all the horses but one were stallions; this being the season when + they are most vicious, we had great difficulty in managing them, and were + obliged to keep watch over them all night. . . . + </p> + <p> + “As it was obviously our interest to preserve the goodwill of these + people, we passed over several small thefts which they committed, but this + morning we learnt that six tomahawks and a knife had been stolen during + the night. We addressed ourselves to the chief, who seemed angry with his + people, and made a harangue to them; but we did not recover the articles, + and soon afterward two of our spoons were missing. We therefore ordered + them all from our camp, threatening to beat severely any one detected in + purloining. This harshness irritated them so much that they left us in an + ill-humor, and we therefore kept on our guard against any insult. Besides + this knavery, the faithlessness of the people is intolerable; frequently, + after receiving goods in exchange for a horse, they return in a few hours + and insist on revoking the bargain or receiving some additional value. We + discovered, too, that the horse which was missing yesterday had been + gambled away by the fellow from whom we had purchased him, to a man of a + different nation, who had carried him off. We succeeded in buying two more + horses, two dogs, and some chappelell, and also exchanged a couple of + elk-skins for a gun belonging to the chief. . . . One of the canoes, for + which the Indians would give us very little, was cut up for fuel; two + others, together with some elk-skins and pieces of old iron, we bartered + for beads, and the remaining two small ones were despatched early next + morning, with all the baggage which could not be carried on horseback. We + had intended setting out at the same time, but one of our horses broke + loose during the night, and we were under the necessity of sending several + men in search of him. In the mean time, the Indians, who were always on + the alert, stole a tomahawk, which we could not recover, though several of + them were searched; and another fellow was detected in carrying off a + piece of iron, and kicked out of camp; upon which Captain Lewis, + addressing them, told them he was not afraid to fight them, for, if he + chose, he could easily put them all to death, and burn their village, but + that he did not wish to treat them ill if they kept from stealing; and + that, although, if he could discover who had the tomahawks, he would take + away their horses, yet he would rather lose the property altogether than + take the horse of an innocent man. The chiefs were present at this + harangue, hung their heads, and made no reply. + </p> + <p> + “At ten o’clock the men returned with the horse, and soon after an Indian, + who had promised to go with us as far as the Chopunnish, came with two + horses, one of which he politely offered to assist in carrying our + baggage. We therefore loaded nine horses, and, giving the tenth to + Bratton, who was still too sick to walk, at about ten o’clock left the + village of these disagreeable people.” + </p> + <p> + At an Indian village which they reached soon after leaving that of the + disagreeable Skilloots, they found the fellow who had gambled away the + horse that he had sold. Being faced with punishment, he agreed to replace + the animal he had stolen with another, and a very good horse was brought + to satisfy the white men, who were now determined to pursue a rigid course + with the thievish Indians among whom they found themselves. These people, + the Eneeshurs, were stingy, inhospitable, and overbearing in their ways. + Nothing but the formidable numbers of the white men saved them from + insult, pillage, and even murder. While they were here, one of the horses + belonging to the party broke loose and ran towards the Indian village. A + buffalo robe attached to him fell off and was gathered in by one of the + Eneeshurs. Captain Lewis, whose patience was now exhausted, set out, + determined to burn the village unless the Indians restored the robe. + Fortunately, however, one of his men found the missing article hidden in a + hut, and so any act of violent reprisal was not necessary. + </p> + <p> + So scarce had now become fuel, the party were obliged to buy what little + wood they required for their single cooking-fire. They could not afford a + fire to keep them warm, and, as the nights were cold and they lay without + any shelter, they were most uncomfortable, although the days were warm. + They were now travelling along the Columbia River, using their horses for + a part of their luggage, and towing the canoes with the remainder of the + stuff. On the twenty-third of April they arrived at the mouth of Rock + Creek, on the Columbia, a considerable stream which they missed as they + passed this point on their way down, October 21. Here they met a company + of Indians called the Wahhowpum, with whom they traded pewter buttons, + strips of tin and twisted wire for roots, dogs, and fuel. These people + were waiting for the arrival of the salmon. The journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “After arranging the camp we assembled all the warriors, and having smoked + with them, the violins were produced, and some of the men danced. This + civility was returned by the Indians in a style of dancing, such as we had + not yet seen. The spectators formed a circle round the dancers, who, with + their robes drawn tightly round the shoulders, and divided into parties of + five or six men, perform by crossing in a line from one side of the circle + to the other. All the parties, performers as well as spectators, sing, and + after proceeding in this way for some time, the spectators join, and the + whole concludes by a promiscuous dance and song. Having finished, the + natives retired at our request, after promising to barter horses with us + in the morning.” + </p> + <p> + They bought three horses of these Indians and hired three more from a + Chopunnish who was to accompany them. The journal adds:— + </p> + <p> + “The natives also had promised to take our canoes in exchange for horses; + but when they found that we were resolved on travelling by land they + refused giving us anything, in hopes that we would be forced to leave + them. Disgusted at this conduct, we determined rather to cut them to + pieces than suffer these people to enjoy them, and actually began to split + them, on which they gave us several strands of beads for each canoe. We + had now a sufficient number of horses to carry our baggage, and therefore + proceeded wholly by land.” + </p> + <p> + Next day the party camped near a tribe of Indians known as the + Pishquitpah. These people had never seen white men before, and they + flocked in great numbers around the strangers, but were very civil and + hospitable, although their curiosity was rather embarrassing. These people + were famous hunters, and both men and women were excellent riders. They + were now travelling on the south side of the river, in Oregon, and, after + leaving the Pishquitpahs, they encountered the “Wollawollahs,” as they + called them. These Indians are now known as the Walla Walla tribe, and + their name is given to a river, a town, and a fort of the United States. + In several of the Indian dialects walla means “running water,” and when + the word is repeated, it diminishes the size of the object; so that Walla + Walla means “little running water.” Near here the explorers passed the + mouth of a river which they called the Youmalolam; it is a curious example + of the difficulty of rendering Indian names into English. The stream is + now known as the Umatilla. Here they found some old acquaintances of whom + the journal has this account:— + </p> + <p> + “Soon after we were joined by seven Wollawollahs, among whom we recognized + a chief by the name of Yellept, who had visited us on the nineteenth of + October, when we gave him a medal with the promise of a larger one on our + return. He appeared very much pleased at seeing us again, and invited us + to remain at his village three or four days, during which he would supply + us with the only food they had, and furnish us with horses for our + journey. After the cold, inhospitable treatment we have lately received, + this kind offer was peculiarly acceptable; and after a hasty meal we + accompanied him to his village, six miles above, situated on the edge of + the low country, about twelve miles below the mouth of Lewis’ River. + </p> + <p> + “Immediately on our arrival Yellept, who proved to be a man of much + influence, not only in his own but in the neighboring nations, collected + the inhabitants, and having made a harangue, the purport of which was to + induce the nations to treat us hospitably, he set them an example by + bringing himself an armful of wood, and a platter containing three roasted + mullets. They immediately assented to one part, at least, of the + recommendation, by furnishing us with an abundance of the only sort of + fuel they employ, the stems of shrubs growing in the plains. We then + purchased four dogs, on which we supped heartily, having been on short + allowance for two days past. When we were disposed to sleep, the Indians + retired immediately on our request, and indeed, uniformly conducted + themselves with great propriety. These people live on roots, which are + very abundant in the plains, and catch a few salmon-trout; but at present + they seem to subsist chiefly on a species of mullet, weighing from one to + three pounds. They informed us that opposite the village there was a route + which led to the mouth of the Kooskooskee, on the south side of Lewis’ + River; that the road itself was good, and passed over a level country well + supplied with water and grass; and that we should meet with plenty of deer + and antelope. We knew that a road in that direction would shorten the + distance at least eighty miles; and as the report of our guide was + confirmed by Yellept and other Indians, we did not hesitate to adopt this + route: they added, however, that there were no houses, nor permanent + Indian residences on the road and that it would therefore be prudent not + to trust wholly to our guns, but to lay in a stock of provisions. + </p> + <p> + “Taking their advice, therefore, we next day purchased ten dogs. While the + trade for these was being conducted by our men, Yellept brought a fine + white horse, and presented him to Captain Clark, expressing at the same + time a wish to have a kettle; but, on being informed that we had already + disposed of the last kettle we could spare, he said he would be content + with any present we chose to make him in return. Captain Clark thereupon + gave him his sword, for which the chief had before expressed a desire, + adding one hundred balls, some powder, and other small articles, with + which he appeared perfectly satisfied. We were now anxious to depart, and + requested Yellept to lend us canoes for the purpose of crossing the river; + but he would not listen to any proposal of the kind. He wished us to + remain for two or three days; but, at all events, would not consent to our + going to-day, for he had already sent to invite his neighbors, the + Chimnapoos, to come down this evening and join his people in a dance for + our amusement. We urged in vain that, by setting out sooner, we would the + earlier return with the articles they desired; for a day, he observed, + would make but little difference. We at length mentioned that, as there + was no wind it was now the best time to cross the river, and we would + merely take the horses over and return to sleep at their village. To this + he assented; we then crossed with our horses, and having hobbled them, + returned to their camp. + </p> + <p> + “Fortunately, there was among these Wollwaollahs a prisoner belonging to a + tribe of Shoshonee or Snake Indians, residing to the south of the + Multnomah and visiting occasionally the heads of Wollawollah Creek. Our + Shoshonee woman, Sacajawea, though she belonged to a tribe near the + Missouri, spoke the same language as this prisoner; by their means we were + able to explain ourselves to the Indians, and answer all their inquiries + with respect to ourselves and the object of our journey. Our conversation + inspired them with much confidence, and they soon brought several sick + persons, for whom they requested our assistance. We splintered (splinted) + the broken arm of one, gave some relief to another, whose knee was + contracted by rheumatism, and administered what we thought beneficial for + ulcers and eruptions of the skin on various parts of the body which are + very common disorders among them. But our most valuable medicine was + eye-water, which we distributed, and which, indeed, they required very + much. + </p> + <p> + “A little before sunset the Chimnapoos, amounting to one hundred men and a + few women, came to the village, and, joining the Wollawollahs, who were + about the same number of men, formed themselves in a circle round our + camp, and waited very patiently till our men were disposed to dance, which + they did for about an hour, to the music of the violin. They then + requested the Indians to dance. With this they readily complied; and the + whole assemblage, amounting, with the women and children of the village, + to several hundred, stood up, and sang and danced at the same time. The + exercise was not, indeed, very violent nor very graceful; for the greater + part of them were formed into a solid column, round a kind of hollow + square, stood on the same place, and merely jumped up at intervals, to + keep time to the music. Some, however, of the more active warriors entered + the square and danced round it sideways, and some of our men joined in + with them, to the great satisfaction of the Indians. The dance continued + till ten o’clock.” + </p> + <p> + By the thirtieth of April the expedition was equipped with twenty-three + horses, most of which were young and excellent animals; but many of them + were afflicted with sore backs. All Indians are cruel masters and hard + riders, and their saddles are so rudely made that it is almost impossible + for an Indian’s horse to be free from scars; yet they continue to ride + after the animal’s back is scarified in the most horrible manner. + </p> + <p> + The expedition was now in what we know as Walla Walla County, Washington, + and they were travelling along the river Walla Walla, leaving the + Columbia, which has here a general direction of northerly. The course of + the party was northeast, their objective point being that where Waitesburg + is now built, near the junction of Coppie Creek and the Touchet River. + They were in a region of wood in plenty, and for the first time since + leaving the Long Narrows, or Dalles, they had as much fuel as they needed. + On the Touchet, accordingly, they camped for the sake of having a + comfortable night; the nights were cold, and a good fire by which to sleep + was an attraction not easily resisted. The journal, April 30, has this + entry:— + </p> + <p> + “We were soon supplied by Drewyer with a beaver and an otter, of which we + took only a part of the beaver, and gave the rest to the Indians. The + otter is a favorite food, though much inferior, at least in our + estimation, to the dog, which they will not eat. The horse is seldom + eaten, and never except when absolute necessity compels them, as the only + alternative to dying of hunger. This fastidiousness does not, however, + seem to proceed so much from any dislike to the food, as from attachment + to the animal itself; for many of them eat very heartily of the horse-beef + which we give them.” + </p> + <p> + On the first day of May, having travelled forty miles from their camp near + the mouth of the Walla Walla, they camped between two points at which are + now situated the two towns of Prescott, on the south, and Waitesburg, on + the north. Their journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “We had scarcely encamped when three young men came up from the + Wollawollah village, with a steel-trap which had inadvertently been left + behind, and which they had come a whole day’s journey in order to restore. + This act of integrity was the more pleasing, because, though very rare + among Indians, it corresponded perfectly with the general behavior of the + Wollawollahs, among whom we had lost carelessly several knives, which were + always returned as soon as found. We may, indeed, justly affirm, that of + all the Indians whom we had met since leaving the United States, the + Wollawollahs were the most hospitable, honest, and sincere.” + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0021" id="link2HCH0021"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XXI — Overland east of the Columbia + </h2> + <p> + It was now early in May, and the expedition, travelling eastward along + Touchet Creek, were in the country of their friends, the Chopunnish. On + the third, they were agreeably surprised to meet Weahkootnut, whom they + had named Bighorn from the fact that he wore a horn of that animal + suspended from his left arm. This man was the first chief of a large band + of Chopunnish, and when the expedition passed that way, on their path to + the Pacific, the last autumn, he was very obliging and useful to them, + guiding them down the Snake, or Lewis River. He had now heard that the + white men were on their return, and he had come over across the hills to + meet them. As we may suppose, the meeting was very cordial, and + Weahkootnut turned back with his white friends and accompanied them to the + mouth of the Kooskooskee, a stream of which our readers have heard before; + it is now known as the Clearwater. + </p> + <p> + Captain Lewis told Weahkootnut that his people were hungry, their slender + stock of provisions being about exhausted. The chief told them that they + would soon come to a Chopunnish house where they could get food. But the + journal has this entry:— + </p> + <p> + “We found the house which Weahkootnut had mentioned, where we halted for + breakfast. It contained six families, so miserably poor that all we could + obtain from them were two lean dogs and a few large cakes of half-cured + bread, made of a root resembling the sweet potato, of all which we + contrived to form a kind of soup. The soil of the plain is good, but it + has no timber. The range of southwest mountains is about fifteen miles + above us, but continues to lower, and is still covered with snow to its + base. After giving passage to Lewis’ (Snake) River, near their + northeastern extremity, they terminate in a high level plain between that + river and the Kooskooskee. The salmon not having yet called them to the + rivers, the greater part of the Chopunnish are now dispersed in villages + through this plain, for the purpose of collecting quamash and cows, which + here grow in great abundance, the soil being extremely fertile, in many + places covered with long-leaved pine, larch, and balsam-fir, which + contribute to render it less thirsty than the open, unsheltered plains.” + </p> + <p> + By the word “cows,” in this sentence, we must understand that the + story-teller meant cowas, a root eaten by the Indians and white explorers + in that distant region. It is a knobbed, irregular root, and when cooked + resembles the ginseng. At this place the party met some of the Indians + whom Captain Clark had treated for slight diseases, when they passed that + way, the previous autumn. They bad sounded the praises of the white men + and their medicine, and others were now waiting to be treated in the same + manner. The Indians were glad to pay for their treatment, and the white + men were not sorry to find this easy method of adding to their stock of + food, which was very scanty at this time. The journal sagely adds, “We + cautiously abstain from giving them any but harmless medicines; and as we + cannot possibly do harm, our prescriptions, though unsanctioned by the + faculty, may be useful, and are entitled to some remuneration.” Very + famous and accomplished doctors might say the same thing of their + practice. But the explorers did not meet with pleasant acquaintances only; + in the very next entry is recorded this disagreeable incident: + </p> + <p> + “Four miles beyond this house we came to another large one, containing ten + families, where we halted and made our dinner on two dogs and a small + quantity of roots, which we did not procure without much difficulty. + Whilst we were eating, an Indian standing by, looking with great derision + at our eating dogs, threw a poor half-starved puppy almost into Captain + Lewis’ plate, laughing heartily at the humor of it. Captain Lewis took up + the animal and flung it with great force into the fellow’s face; and + seizing his tomahawk, threatened to cut him down if he dared to repeat + such insolence. He immediately withdrew, apparently much mortified, and we + continued our repast of dog very quietly. Here we met our old Chopunnish + guide, with his family; and soon afterward one of our horses, which had + been separated from the rest in charge of Twisted-hair, and had been in + this neighborhood for several weeks, was caught and restored to us.” + </p> + <p> + Later in that day the party came to a Chopunnish house which was one + hundred and fifty-six feet long and fifteen feet wide. Thirty families + were living in this big house, each family having its fire by itself + burning on the earthen floor, along through the middle of the great + structure. The journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “We arrived very hungry and weary, but could not purchase any provisions, + except a small quantity of the roots and bread of the cows. They had, + however, heard of our medical skill, and made many applications for + assistance, but we refused to do anything unless they gave us either dogs + or horses to eat. We soon had nearly fifty patients. A chief brought his + wife with an abscess on her back, and promised to furnish us with a horse + to-morrow if we would relieve her. Captain Clark, therefore, opened the + abscess, introduced a tent, and dressed it with basilicon. We also + prepared and distributed some doses of flour of sulphur and cream of + tartar, with directions for its use. For these we obtained several dogs, + but too poor for use, and therefore postponed our medical operations till + the morning. In the mean time a number of Indians, besides the residents + of the village, gathered about us or camped in the woody bottom of the + creek.” + </p> + <p> + It will be recollected that when the expedition was in this region (on the + Kooskooskee), during the previous September, on their way westward, they + left their horses with Chief Twisted-hair, travelling overland from that + point. They were now looking for that chief, and the journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “About two o’clock we collected our horses and set out, accompanied by + Weahkoonut, with ten or twelve men and a man who said he was the brother + of Twisted-hair. At four miles we came to a single house of three + families, but could not procure provisions of any kind; and five miles + further we halted for the night near another house, built like the rest, + of sticks, mats, and dried hay, and containing six families. It was now so + difficult to procure anything to eat that our chief dependence was on the + horse which we received yesterday for medicine; but to our great + disappointment he broke the rope by which he was confined, made his + escape, and left us supperless in the rain.” + </p> + <p> + Next day they met an Indian who brought them two canisters of powder, + which they at once knew to be some of that which they had buried last + autumn. The Indian said that his dog had dug it up in the meadow by the + river, and he had restored it to its rightful owners. As a reward for his + honesty, the captains gave him a flint and steel for striking fire; and + they regretted that their own poverty prevented them from being more + liberal to the man. + </p> + <p> + They observed that the Rocky Mountains, now in full sight, were still + covered with snow, and the prospect of crossing them was not very rosy. + Their Chopunnish guide told them that it would be impossible to cross the + mountains before the next full moon, which would be about the first of + June. The journal adds: “To us, who are desirous of reaching the plains of + the Missouri—if for no other reason, for the purpose of enjoying a + good meal—this intelligence was by no means welcome, and gave no + relish to the remainder of the horse killed at Colter’s Creek, which + formed our supper, as part of which had already been our dinner.” Next + day, accordingly, the hunters turned out early in the morning, and before + noon returned with four deer and a duck, which, with the remains of + horse-beef on hand, gave them a much more plentiful stock of provisions + than had lately fallen to their lot. During the previous winter, they were + told, the Indians suffered very much for lack of food, game of all sorts + being scarce. They were forced to boil and eat the moss growing on the + trees, and they cut down the pine-trees for the sake of the small nut to + be found in the pine-cones. Here they were met by an old friend, + Neeshnepahkeeook and the Shoshonee, who had acted as interpreter for them. + The journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “We gave Neeshnepahkeeook and his people some of our game and horse-beef, + besides the entrails of the deer, and four fawns which we found inside of + two of them. They did not eat any of them perfectly raw, but the entrails + had very little cooking; the fawns were boiled whole, and the hide, hair, + and entrails all consumed. The Shoshonee was offended at not having as + much venison as he wished, and refused to interpret; but as we took no + notice of him, he became very officious in the course of a few hours, and + made many efforts to reinstate himself in our favor. The brother of + Twisted-hair, and Neeshnepahkeeook, now drew a sketch, which we preserved, + of all the waters west of the Rocky Mountains.” + </p> + <p> + They now met Twisted-hair, in whose care they had left their horses and + saddles the previous fall, and this was the result of their inquiries:— + </p> + <p> + “Between three and four o’clock in the afternoon we set out, in company + with Neeshuepahkeeook and other Indians, the brother of Twisted-hair + having left us. Our route was up a high steep hill to a level plain with + little wood, through which we passed in a direction parallel to the + (Kooskooskee) River for four miles, when we met Twisted-hair and six of + his people. To this chief we had confided our horses and a part of our + saddles last autumn, and we therefore formed very unfavorable conjectures + on finding that he received us with great coldness. Shortly afterward he + began to speak in a very loud, angry manner, and was answered by + Neeshnepahkeeook. We now discovered that a violent quarrel had arisen + between these chiefs, on the subject, as we afterward understood, of our + horses. But as we could not learn the cause, and were desirous of + terminating the dispute, we interposed, and told them we should go on to + the first water and camp. We therefore set out, followed by all the + Indians, and having reached, at two miles’ distance, a small stream + running to the right, we camped with the two chiefs and their little + bands, forming separate camps at a distance from each other. They all + appeared to be in an ill humor; and as we had already heard reports that + the Indians had discovered and carried off our saddles, and that the + horses were very much scattered, we began to be uneasy, lest there should + be too much foundation for the report. We were therefore anxious to + reconcile the two chiefs as soon as possible, and desired the Shoshonee to + interpret for us while we attempted a mediation, but be peremptorily + refused to speak a word. He observed that it was a quarrel between the two + chiefs, and he had therefore no right to interfere; nor could all our + representations, that by merely repeating what we said he could not + possibly be considered as meddling between the chiefs, induce him to take + any part in it. + </p> + <p> + “Soon afterward Drewyer returned from hunting, and was sent to invite + Twisted-hair to come and smoke with us. He accepted the invitation, and as + we were smoking the pipe over our fire he informed us that according to + his promise on leaving us at the falls of the Columbia, he had collected + our horses and taken charge of them as soon as he reached home. But about + this time Neeshnepahkeeook and Turmachemootoolt (Broken-arm), who, as we + passed, were on a war-party against the Shoshonees on the south branch of + Lewis’ River, returned; and becoming jealous of him, because the horses + had been confided to his care, were constantly quarrelling with him. At + length, being an old man and unwilling to live in perpetual dispute with + these two chiefs, he had given up the care of the horses, which had + consequently become very much scattered. The greater part of them were, + however, still in the neighborhood; some in the forks between the + Chopunnish and Kooskooskee, and three or four at the village of Broken + Arm, about half a day’s march higher up the river. He added, that on the + rise of the river in the spring, the earth had fallen from the door of the + cache, and exposed the saddles, some of which had probably been lost; but + that, as soon as he was acquainted with the situation of them, he had them + buried in another deposit, where they now were. He promised that, if we + would stay the next day at his house, a few miles distant, he would + collect such of the horses as were in the neighborhood, and send his young + men for those in the forks, over the Kooskooskee. He moreover advised us + to visit Broken Arm, who was a chief of great eminence, and he would + himself guide us to his dwelling. + </p> + <p> + “We told him that we would follow his advice in every respect; that we had + confided our horses to his care, and expected he would deliver them to us, + on which we should cheerfully give him the two guns and the ammunition we + had promised him. With this he seemed very much pleased, and declared he + would use every exertion to restore the horses. We now sent for + Neesbnepahkeeook, or Cut Nose, and, after smoking for some time, began by + expressing to the two chiefs our regret at seeing a misunderstanding + between them. Neeshnepahkeeook replied that Twisted Hair was a bad old + man, and wore two faces; for, instead of taking care of our horses, he had + suffered his young men to hunt with them, so that they had been very much + injured, and it was for this reason that Broken Arm and himself had + forbidden him to use them. Twisted Hair made no reply to this speech, and + we then told Neeshnepahkeeook of our arrangement for the next day. He + appeared to be very well satisfied, and said he would himself go with us + to Broken Arm, who expected to see us, and had TWO BAD HORSES FOR US; by + which expression we understood that Broken Arm intended to make us a + present of two horses.” + </p> + <p> + Next day, the party reached the house of Twisted-hair, and began to look + for their horses and saddles. The journal gives this account of the + search:— + </p> + <p> + “Late in the afternoon, Twisted-hair returned with about half the saddles + we had left in the autumn, and some powder and lead which were buried at + the same place. Soon after, the Indians brought us twenty-one of our + horses, the greater part of which were in excellent order, though some had + not yet recovered from hard usage, and three had sore backs. We were, + however, very glad to procure them in any condition. Several Indians came + down from the village of Tunnachemootoolt and passed the night with us. + Cut-nose and Twisted-hair seem now perfectly reconciled, for they both + slept in the house of the latter. The man who had imposed himself upon us + as a brother of Twisted-hair also came and renewed his advances, but we + now found that he was an impertinent, proud fellow, of no respectability + in the nation, and we therefore felt no inclination to cultivate his + intimacy. Our camp was in an open plain, and soon became very + uncomfortable, for the wind was high and cold, and the rain and hail, + which began about seven o’clock, changed in two hours to a heavy fall of + snow, which continued till after six o’clock (May 10th), the next morning, + when it ceased, after covering the ground eight inches deep and leaving + the air keen and cold. We soon collected our horses, and after a scanty + breakfast of roots set out on a course S. 35'0 E.” + </p> + <p> + They were now following the general course of the Kooskooskee, or + Clearwater, as the stream is called, and their route lay in what is now + Nez Perce County, Idaho. They have passed the site of the present city of + Lewiston, named for Captain Lewis. They have arrived in a region inhabited + by the friendly Chopunnish, or Nez Perce, several villages of which nation + were scattered around the camp of the white men. The narrative says: + </p> + <p> + “We soon collected the men of consideration, and after smoking, explained + how destitute we were of provisions. The chief spoke to the people, who + immediately brought two bushels of dried quamash-roots, some cakes of the + roots of cows, and a dried salmon-trout; we thanked them for this supply, + but observed that, not being accustomed to live on roots alone, we feared + that such diet might make our men sick, and therefore proposed to exchange + one of our good horses, which was rather poor, for one that was fatter, + and which we might kill. The hospitality of the chief was offended at the + idea of an exchange; he observed that his people had an abundance of young + horses, and that if we were disposed to use that food we might have as + many as we wanted. Accordingly, they soon gave us two fat young horses, + without asking anything in return, an act of liberal hospitality much + greater than any we have witnessed since crossing the Rocky Mountains, if + it be not in fact the only really hospitable treatment we have received in + this part of the world. We killed one of the horses, and then telling the + natives that we were fatigued and hungry, and that as soon as we were + refreshed we would communicate freely with them, began to prepare our + repast. + </p> + <p> + “During this time a principal chief, called Hohastillpilp, came from his + village, about six miles distant, with a party of fifty men, for the + purpose of visiting us. We invited him into our circle, and he alighted + and smoked with us, while his retinue, with five elegant horses, continued + mounted at a short distance. While this was going on, the chief had a + large leathern tent spread for us, and desired that we would make it our + home so long as we remained at his village. We removed there, and having + made a fire, and cooked our supper of horseflesh and roots, collected all + the distinguished men present, and spent the evening in making known who + we were, what were the objects of our journey, and in answering their + inquiries. To each of the chiefs Tunnachemootoolt and Hohastillpilp we + gave a small medal, explaining their use and importance as honorary + distinctions both among the whites and the red men. Our men were well + pleased at once more having made a hearty meal. They had generally been in + the habit of crowding into the houses of the Indians, to purchase + provisions on the best terms they could; for the inhospitality of the + country was such, that often, in the extreme of hunger, they were obliged + to treat the natives with but little ceremony; but this Twisted Hair had + told us was very disagreeable. Finding that these people are so kind and + liberal, we ordered our men to treat them with the greatest respect, and + not to throng round their fires, so that they now agree perfectly well + together. After the council the Indians felt no disposition to retire, and + our tent was filled with them all night.” + </p> + <p> + As the expedition was here in a populous country, among many bands of + Indians, it was thought wise to have a powwow with the head men and + explain to them what were the intentions of the United States Government. + But, owing to the crooked course which their talk must needs take, it was + very difficult to learn if the Indians finally understood what was said. + Here is the journal’s account of the way in which the powwow was + conducted:— + </p> + <p> + “We collected the chiefs and warriors, and having drawn a map of the + relative situation of our country on a mat with a piece of coal, detailed + the nature and power of the American nation, its desire to preserve + harmony between all its red brethren, and its intention of establishing + trading-houses for their relief and support. It was not without + difficulty, nor till after nearly half the day was spent, that we were + able to convey all this information to the Chopunnish, much of which might + have been lost or distorted in its circuitous route through a variety of + languages; for in the first place, we spoke in English to one of our men, + who translated it into French to Chaboneau; he interpreted it to his wife + in the Minnetaree language; she then put it into Shoshonee, and the young + Shoshonee prisoner explained it to the Chopunnish in their own dialect. At + last we succeeded in communicating the impression we wished, and then + adjourned the council; after which we amused them by showing the wonders + of the compass, spy-glass, magnet, watch, and air-gun, each of which + attracted its share of admiration.” + </p> + <p> + The simple-minded Indians, who seemed to think that the white men could + heal all manner of diseases, crowded around them next day, begging for + medicines and treatment. These were freely given, eye-water being most in + demand. There was a general medical powwow. The journal adds:— + </p> + <p> + “Shortly after, the chiefs and warriors held a council among themselves, + to decide on an answer to our speech, and the result was, as we were + informed, that they had full confidence in what we had told them, and were + resolved to follow our advice. This determination having been made, the + principal chief, Tunnachemootoolt, took a quantity of flour of the roots + of cow-weed (cowas), and going round to all the kettles and baskets in + which his people were cooking, thickened the soup into a kind of mush. He + then began an harangue, setting forth the result of the deliberations + among the chiefs, and after exhorting them to unanimity, concluded with an + invitation to all who acquiesced in the proceedings of the council to come + and eat; while those who were of a different mind were requested to show + their dissent by not partaking of the feast. During this animated + harangue, the women, who were probably uneasy at the prospect of forming + this proposed new connection with strangers, tore their hair, and wrung + their hands with the greatest appearance of distress. But the concluding + appeal of the orator effectually stopped the mouths of every malecontent, + and the proceedings were ratified, and the mush devoured with the most + zealous unanimity. + </p> + <p> + “The chiefs and warriors then came in a body to visit us as we were seated + near our tent; and at their instance, two young men, one of whom was a son + of Tunnachemootoolt, and the other the youth whose father had been killed + by the Pahkees, presented to us each a fine horse. We invited the chiefs + to be seated, and gave every one of them a flag, a pound of powder, and + fifty balls, and a present of the same kind to the young men from whom we + had received the horses. They then invited us into the tent, and said that + they now wished to answer what we had told them yesterday, but that many + of their people were at that moment waiting in great pain for our medical + assistance.” + </p> + <p> + It was agreed, therefore, that Captain Clark, who seems to have been their + favorite physician, should attend to the sick and lame, while Captain + Lewis should conduct a council with the chiefs and listen to what they had + to say. The upshot of the powwow was that the Chopunnish said they had + sent three of their warriors with a pipe to make peace with the + Shoshonees, last summer, as they had been advised to do by the white men. + The Shoshonees, unmindful of the sacredness of this embassy, had killed + the young warriors and had invited the battle which immediately took + place, in which the Chopunnish killed forty-two of the Shoshonees, to get + even for the wanton killing of their three young men. The white men now + wanted some of the Chopunnish to accompany them to the plains of the + Missouri, but the Indians were not willing to go until they were assured + that they would not be waylaid and slain by their enemies of the other + side of the mountains. The Chopunnish would think over the proposal that + some of their young men should go over the range with the white men; a + decision on this point should be reached before the white men left the + country. Anyhow, the white men might be sure that the Indians would do + their best to oblige their visitors. Their conclusion was, “For, although + we are poor, our hearts are good.” The story of this conference thus + concludes:— + </p> + <p> + “As soon as this speech was concluded, Captain Lewis replied at some + length; with this they appeared highly gratified, and after smoking the + pipe, made us a present of another fat horse for food. We, in turn, gave + Broken-arm a phial of eye-water, with directions to wash the eyes of all + who should apply for it; and as we promised to fill it again when it was + exhausted, he seemed very much pleased with our liberality. To + Twisted-hair, who had last night collected six more horses, we gave a gun, + one hundred balls, and two pounds of powder, and told him he should have + the same quantity when we received the remainder of our horses. In the + course of the day three more of them were brought in, and a fresh exchange + of small presents put the Indians in excellent humor. On our expressing a + wish to cross the river and form a camp, in order to hunt and fish till + the snows had melted, they recommended a position a few miles distant, and + promised to furnish us to-morrow with a canoe to cross. We invited + Twisted-hair to settle near our camp, for he has several young sons, one + of whom we hope to engage as a guide, and he promised to do so. Having now + settled all their affairs, the Indians divided themselves into two + parties, and began to play the game of hiding a bone, already described as + common to all the natives of this country, which they continued playing + for beads and other ornaments.” + </p> + <p> + As there was so dismal a prospect for crossing the snow-covered mountains + at this season of the year, the captains of the expedition resolved to + establish a camp and remain until the season should be further advanced. + Accordingly, a spot on the north side of the river, recommended to them by + the Indians, was selected, and a move across the stream was made. A single + canoe was borrowed for the transit of the baggage, and the horses were + driven in to swim across, and the passage was accomplished without loss. + The camp was built on the site of an old Indian house, in a circle about + thirty yards in diameter, near the river and in an advantageous position. + As soon as the party were encamped, the two Chopunnish chiefs came down to + the opposite bank, and, with twelve of their nation, began to sing. This + was the custom of these people, being a token of their friendship on such + occasions. The captains sent a canoe over for the chiefs, and, after + smoking for some time, Hohastillpilp presented Captain with a fine gray + horse which he had brought over for that purpose, and he was perfectly + satisfied to receive in return a handkerchief, two hundred balls, and four + pounds of powder. + </p> + <p> + Here is some curious information concerning the bears which they found in + this region. It must be borne in mind that they were still west of the + Bitter Root Mountains:— + </p> + <p> + “The hunters killed some pheasants, two squirrels, and a male and a female + bear, the first of which was large, fat, and of a bay color; the second + meagre, grizzly, and of smaller size. They were of the species (Ursus + horribilis) common to the upper part of the Missouri, and might well be + termed the variegated bear, for they are found occasionally of a black, + grizzly, brown, or red color. There is every reason to believe them to be + of precisely the same species. Those of different colors are killed + together, as in the case of these two, and as we found the white and bay + associated together on the Missouri; and some nearly white were seen in + this neighborhood by the hunters. Indeed, it is not common to find any two + bears of the same color; and if the difference in color were to constitute + a distinction of species, the number would increase to almost twenty. Soon + afterward the hunters killed a female bear with two cubs. The mother was + black, with a considerable intermixture of white hairs and a white spot on + the breast. One of the cubs was jet black, and the other of a light + reddish-brown or bay color. The hair of these variegated bears is much + finer, longer, and more abundant than that of the common black bear; but + the most striking differences between them are that the former are larger + and have longer tusks, and longer as well as blunter talons; that they + prey more on other animals; that they lie neither so long nor so closely + in winter quarters; and that they never climb a tree, however closely + pressed by the hunters. These variegated bears, though specifically the + same with those we met on the Missouri, are by no means so ferocious; + probably because the scarcity of game and the habit of living on roots may + have weaned them from the practices of attacking and devouring animals. + Still, however, they are not so passive as the common black bear, which is + also to be found here; for they have already fought with our hunters, + though with less fury than those on the other side of the mountains. + </p> + <p> + “A large part of the meat we gave to the Indians, to whom it was a real + luxury, as they scarcely taste flesh once in a month. They immediately + prepared a large fire of dried wood, on which was thrown a number of + smooth stones from the river. As soon as the fire went down and the stones + were heated, they were laid next to each other in a level position, and + covered with a quantity of pine branches, on which were placed flitches of + the meat, and then boughs and flesh alternately for several courses, + leaving a thick layer of pine on the top. On this heap they then poured a + small quantity of water, and covered the whole with earth to the depth of + four inches. After remaining in this state for about three hours, the meat + was taken off, and was really more tender than that which we had boiled or + roasted, though the strong flavor of the pine rendered it disagreeable to + our palates. This repast gave them much satisfaction; for, though they + sometimes kill the black bear, they attack very reluctantly the fierce + variegated bear; and never except when they can pursue him on horseback + over the plains, and shoot him with arrows.” + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0022" id="link2HCH0022"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XXII — Camping with the Nez Perces + </h2> + <p> + Soon after they had fixed their camp, the explorers bade farewell to their + good friend Tunnachemootoolt and his young men, who returned to their + homes farther down the river. Others of the Nez Perce, or Chopunnish, + nation visited them, and the strangers were interested in watching the + Indians preparing for their hunt. As they were to hunt the deer, they had + the head, horns, and hide of that animal so prepared that when it was + placed on the head and body of a hunter, it gave a very deceptive idea of + a deer; the hunter could move the head of the decoy so that it looked like + a deer feeding, and the suspicious animals were lured within range of the + Indians’ bow and arrow. + </p> + <p> + On the sixteenth of May, Hohastillpilp and his young men also left the + white men’s camp and returned to their own village. The hunters of the + party did not meet with much luck in their quest for game, only one deer + and a few pheasants being brought in for several days. The party were fed + on roots and herbs, a species of onion being much prized by them. Bad + weather confined them to their camp, and a common entry in their journal + refers to their having slept all night in a pool of water formed by the + falling rain; their tent-cover was a worn-out leathern affair no longer + capable of shedding the rain. While it rained in the meadows where they + were camped, they could see the snow covering the higher plains above + them; on those plains the snow was more than a foot deep, and yet the + plants and shrubs seemed to thrive in the midst of the snow. On the + mountains the snow was several feet in depth. The journalist says: “So + that within twenty miles of our camp we observe the rigors of winter cold, + the cool air of spring, and the oppressive heat of midsummer.” They kept a + shrewd lookout for the possibilities of future occupation of the land by + white men; and, writing here of country and its character, the journalist + says: “In short, this district affords many advantages to settlers, and if + properly cultivated, would yield every object necessary for the comfort + and subsistence of civilized man.” But in their wildest dreams, Captains + Lewis and Clark could not have foreseen that in that identical region + thrifty settlements of white men should flourish and that the time would + come when the scanty remnant of the Chopunnish, whom we now call Nez + Perces, would be gathered on a reservation near their camping-place. But + both of these things have come to pass. + </p> + <p> + In describing the dress of the Chopunnish, or Nez Perces, the journal says + that tippets, or collars, were worn by the men. “That of Hohastillpilp,” + says the journal, “was formed of human scalps and adorned with the thumbs + and fingers of several men slain by him in battle.” And yet the journal + immediately adds: “The Chopunnish are among the most amiable men we have + seen. Their character is placid and gentle, rarely moved to passion, yet + not often enlivened by gayety.” In short, the Indians were amiable + savages; and it is a savage trait to love to destroy one’s enemies. + </p> + <p> + Here is an entry in the journal of May 19 which will give the reader some + notion of the privations and the pursuits of the party while shut up in + camp for weary weeks in the early summer of 1806:— + </p> + <p> + “After a cold, rainy night, during a greater part of which we lay in the + water, the weather became fair; we then sent some men to a village above + us, on the opposite side, to purchase some roots. They carried with them + for this purpose a small collection of awls, knitting-pins, and armbands, + with which they obtained several bushels of the root of cows, and some + bread of the same material. They were followed, too, by a train of + invalids from the village, who came to ask for our assistance. The men + were generally afflicted with sore eyes; but the women had besides this a + variety of other disorders, chiefly rheumatic, a violent pain and weakness + in the loins, which is a common complaint among them; one of them seemed + much dejected, and as we thought, from the account of her disease, + hysterical. We gave her thirty drops of laudanum, and after administering + eye-water, rubbing the rheumatic patients with volatile liniment, and + giving cathartics to others, they all thought themselves much relieved and + returned highly satisfied to the village. We were fortunate enough to + retake one of the horses on which we (Captain Lewis) had crossed the Rocky + Mountains in the autumn, and which had become almost wild since that + time.” + </p> + <p> + A day or two later, the journal has this significant entry: “On parcelling + out the stores, the stock of each man was found to be only one awl, and + one knitting-pin, half an ounce of vermilion, two needles, a few skeins of + thread, and about a yard of ribbon—a slender means of bartering for + our subsistence; but the men have been so much accustomed to privations + that now neither the want of meat nor the scanty funds of the party + excites the least anxiety among them.” To add to their discomfort, there + was a great deal of sickness in the camp, owing to the low diet of the + men. Sacajawea’s baby was ill with mumps and teething, and it is suggested + that the two captains would have been obliged to “walk the floor all + night,” if there had been any floor to walk on; as it was, they were + deprived of their nightly rest. Here is an example of what the doctors + would call heroic treatment by Captain Clark, who conducted all such + experiments:— + </p> + <p> + “With one of the men (Bratton) we have ventured an experiment of a very + robust nature. He has been for some time sick, but has now recovered his + flesh, eats heartily, and digests well, but has so great a weakness in the + loins that he cannot walk or even sit upright without extreme pain. After + we had in vain exhausted the resources of our art, one of the hunters + mentioned that he had known persons in similar situations to be restored + by violent sweats, and at the request of the patient, we permitted the + remedy to be applied. For this purpose a hole about four feet deep and + three in diameter was dug in the earth, and heated well by a large fire in + the bottom of it. The fire was then taken out, and an arch formed over the + hole by means of willow-poles, and covered with several blankets so as to + make a perfect awning. The patient being stripped naked, was seated under + this on a beach, with a piece of board for his feet, and with a jug of + water sprinkled the bottom and sides of the hole, so as to keep up as hot + a steam as he could bear. After remaining twenty minutes in this + situation, he was taken out, immediately plunged twice in cold water, and + brought back to the hole, where he resumed the vapor bath. During all this + time he drank copiously a strong infusion of horse-mint, which was used as + a substitute for seneca-root, which our informant said he had seen + employed on these occasions, but of which there is none in this country. + At the end of three-quarters of an hour he was again withdrawn from the + hole, carefully wrapped, and suffered to cool gradually. This operation + was performed yesterday; this morning he walked about and is nearly free + from pain. About eleven o’clock a canoe arrived with three Indians, one of + whom was the poor creature who had lost the use of his limbs, and for + whose recovery the natives seem very anxious, as he is a chief of + considerable rank among them. His situation is beyond the reach of our + skill. He complains of no pain in any peculiar limb, and we therefore + think his disorder cannot be rheumatic, and his limbs would have been more + diminished if his disease had been a paralytic affection. We had already + ascribed it to his diet of roots, and had recommended his living on fish + and flesh, and using the cold bath every morning, with a dose of cream of + tartar or flowers of sulphur every third day.” + </p> + <p> + It is gratifying to be able to record the fact that Bratton and the Indian + (who was treated in the same manner) actually recovered from their malady. + The journal says of the Indian that his restoration was “wonderful.” This + is not too strong a word to use under the circumstances, for the chief had + been helpless for nearly three years, and yet he was able to get about and + take care of himself after he had been treated by Captain (otherwise + Doctor) Clark. Two of his men met with a serious disaster about this time; + going across the river to trade with some Indians, their boat was stove + and went to the bottom, carrying with it three blankets, a blanket-coat, + and their scanty stock of merchandise, all of which was utterly lost. + Another disaster, which happened next day, is thus recorded:— + </p> + <p> + “Two of our men, who had been up the river to trade with the Indians, + returned quite unsuccessful. Nearly opposite the village, their horse fell + with his load down a steep cliff into the river, across which he swam. An + Indian on the opposite side drove him back to them; but in crossing most + of the articles were lost and the paint melted. Understanding their + intentions, the Indians attempted to come over to them, but having no + canoe, were obliged to use a raft, which struck on a rock, upset, and the + whole store of roots and bread were destroyed. This failure completely + exhausted our stock of merchandise; but the remembrance of what we + suffered from cold and hunger during the passage of the Rocky Mountains + makes us anxious to increase our means of subsistence and comfort, since + we have again to encounter the same inconvenience.” + </p> + <p> + But the ingenuity of the explorers was equal to this emergency. Having + observed that the Indians were very fond of brass buttons, which they + fastened to their garments as ornaments, and not for the useful purpose + for which buttons are made, the men now proceeded to cut from their shabby + United States uniforms those desired articles, and thus formed a new fund + for trading purposes. To these they added some eye-water, some basilicon, + and a few small tin boxes in which phosphorus had been kept. Basilicon, of + which mention is frequently made in the journal, was an ointment composed + of black pitch, white wax, resin, and olive oil; it was esteemed as a + sovereign remedy for all diseases requiring an outward application. With + these valuables two men were sent out to trade with the Indians, on the + second day of June, and they returned with three bushels of eatable roots + and some cowas bread. Later in that day, a party that had been sent down + the river (Lewis’) in quest of food, returned with a goodly supply of + roots and seventeen salmon. These fish, although partly spoiled by the + long journey home, gave great satisfaction to the hungry adventurers, for + they were the promise of a plenty to come when the salmon should ascend + the rivers that make into the Columbia. At this time we find the following + interesting story in the journal of the expedition:— + </p> + <p> + “We had lately heard, also, that some Indians, residing at a considerable + distance, on the south side of the Kooskooskee, were in possession of two + tomahawks, one of which had been left at our camp on Moscheto Creek, and + the other had been stolen while we were with the Chopunnish in the autumn. + This last we were anxious to obtain, in order to give it to the relations + of our unfortunate companion, Sergeant Floyd,(1) to whom it once belonged. + We therefore sent Drewyer, with the two chiefs Neeshnepahkeeook and + Hohastillpilp (who had returned to us) to demand it. On their arrival, + they found that the present possessor of it, who had purchased it of the + thief, was at the point of death; and his relations were unwilling to give + it up, as they wished to bury it in the grave with the deceased. The + influence of Neeshnepahkeeook, however, at length prevailed; and they + consented to surrender the tomahawk on receiving two strands of beads and + a handkerchief from Drewyer, and from each of the chiefs a horse, to be + killed at the funeral of their kinsman, according to the custom of the + country.” + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + (1) See page 23. +</pre> + <p> + The Chopunnish chiefs now gave their final answer to the two captains who + had requested guides from them. The chiefs said that they could not + accompany the party, but later in the summer they might cross the great + divide and spend the next winter on the headwaters of the Missouri. At + present, they could only promise that some of their young men should go + with the whites; these had not been selected, but they would be sent on + after the party, if the two captains insisted on starting now. This was + not very encouraging, for they had depended upon the Indians for guidance + over the exceedingly difficult and even dangerous passages of the + mountains. Accordingly, it was resolved that, while waiting on the motions + of the Indians, the party might as well make a visit to Quamash flats, + where they could lay in a stock of provisions for their arduous journey. + It is not certain which of the several Quamash flats mentioned in the + history of the expedition is here referred to; but it is likely that the + open glade in which Captain Clark first struck the low country of the west + is here meant. It was here that he met the Indian boys hiding in the + grass, and from here he led the expedition out of the wilderness. For + “quamash” read “camass,” an edible root much prized by the Nez Perces then + and now. + </p> + <p> + While they lingered at their camp, they were visited by several bands of + friendly Indians. The explorers traded horses with their visitors, and, + with what they already had, they now found their band to number + sixty-five, all told. Having finished their trading, they invited the + Indians to take part in the games of prisoners’ base and foot-racing; in + the latter game the Indians were very expert, being able to distance the + fleetest runner of the white men’s party. At night, the games were + concluded by a dance. The account of the expedition says that the captains + were desirous of encouraging these exercises before they should begin the + passage over the mountains, “as several of the men are becoming lazy from + inaction.” + </p> + <p> + On the tenth of June the party set out for Quamash flats, each man well + mounted and leading a spare horse which carried a small load. To their + dismay, they found that their good friends, the Chopunnish, unwilling to + part with them, were bound to accompany them to the hunting-grounds. The + Indians would naturally expect to share in the hunt and to be provided for + by the white men. The party halted there only until the sixth of June, and + then, collecting their horses, set out through what proved to be a very + difficult trail up the creek on which they were camped, in a northeasterly + direction. There was still a quantity of snow on the ground, although this + was in shady places and hollows. Vegetation was rank, and the dogtooth + violet, honeysuckle, blue-bell, and columbine were in blossom. The pale + blue flowers of the quamash gave to the level country the appearance of a + blue lake. Striking Hungry Creek, which Captain Clark had very + appropriately named when he passed that way, the previous September, they + followed it up to a mountain for about three miles, when they found + themselves enveloped in snow; their limbs were benumbed, and the snow, + from twelve to fifteen feet deep, so paralyzed their feet that further + progress was impossible. Here the journal should be quoted:— + </p> + <p> + “We halted at the sight of this new difficulty. We already knew that to + wait till the snows of the mountains had dissolved, so as to enable us to + distinguish the road, would defeat our design of returning to the United + States this season. We now found also that as the snow bore our horses + very well, travelling was infinitely easier than it was last fall, when + the rocks and fallen timber had so much obstructed our march. But it would + require five days to reach the fish-weirs at the mouth of Colt (-killed) + Creek, even if we were able to follow the proper ridges of the mountains; + and the danger of missing our direction is exceedingly great while every + track is covered with snow. During these five days, too, we have no chance + of finding either grass or underwood for our horses, the snow being so + deep. To proceed, therefore, under such circumstances, would be to hazard + our being bewildered in the mountains, and to insure the loss of our + horses; even should we be so fortunate as to escape with our lives, we + might be obliged to abandon all our papers and collections. It was + therefore decided not to venture any further; to deposit here all the + baggage and provisions for which we had no immediate use; and, reserving + only subsistence for a few days, to return while our horses were yet + strong to some spot where we might live by hunting, till a guide could be + procured to conduct us across the mountains. Our baggage was placed on + scaffolds and carefully covered, as were also the instruments and papers, + which we thought it safer to leave than to risk over the roads and creeks + by which we came.” + </p> + <p> + There was nothing left to do but to return to Hungry Creek. Finding a + scanty supply of grass, they camped under most depressing circumstances; + their outlook now was the passing of four or five days in the midst of + snows from ten to fifteen feet deep, with no guide, no road, and no + forage. In this emergency, two men were sent back to the Chopunnish + country to hurry up the Indians who had promised to accompany them over + the mountains; and, to insure a guide, these men were authorized to offer + a rifle as a reward for any one who would undertake the task. For the + present, it was thought best to return to Quamash flats. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0023" id="link2HCH0023"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XXIII — Crossing the Bitter Root Mountains + </h2> + <p> + Disasters many kept pace with the unhappy explorers on their way back to + Quamash flats after their rebuff at the base of the Bitter Root Mountains. + One of the horses fell down a rough and rocky place, carrying his rider + with him; but fortunately neither horse nor man was killed. Next, a man, + sent ahead to cut down the brush that blocked the path, cut himself badly + on the inside of his thigh and bled copiously. The hunters sent out for + game returned empty-handed. The fishermen caught no fish, but broke the + two Indian gigs, or contrivances for catching fish, with which they had + been provided. The stock of salt had given out, the bulk of their supply + having been left on the mountain. Several large mushrooms were brought in + by Cruzatte, but these were eaten without pepper, salt, or any kind of + grease,—“a very tasteless, insipid food,” as the journal says. To + crown all, the mosquitoes were pestilential in their numbers and venom. + </p> + <p> + Nevertheless, the leaders of the expedition were determined to press on + and pass the Bitter Root Mountains as soon as a slight rest at Quamash + flats should be had. If they should tarry until the snows melted from the + trail, they would be too late to reach the United States that winter and + would be compelled to pass the next winter at some camp high up on the + Missouri, as they had passed one winter at Fort Mandan, on their way out. + This is the course of argument which Captain Lewis and Clark took to + persuade each other as to the best way out of their difficulties:— + </p> + <p> + “The snows have formed a hard, coarse bed without crust, on which the + horses walk safely without slipping; the chief difficulty, therefore, is + to find the road. In this we may be assisted by the circumstance that, + though generally ten feet in depth, the snow has been thrown off by the + thick and spreading branches of the trees, and from round the trunk; while + the warmth of the trunk itself, acquired by the reflection of the sun, or + communicated by natural heat of the earth, which is never frozen under + these masses, has dissolved the snow so much that immediately at the roots + its depth is not more than one or two feet. We therefore hope that the + marks of the baggage rubbing against the trees may still be perceived; and + we have decided, in case the guide cannot be procured, that one of us will + take three or four of our most expert woodsmen, several of our best + horses, and an ample supply of provisions, go on two days’ journey in + advance, and endeavor to trace the route by the marks of the Indian + baggage on the trees, which we would then mark more distinctly with a + tomahawk. When they should have reached two days’ journey beyond Hungry + Creek, two of the men were to be sent back to apprise the rest of their + success, and if necessary to cause them to delay there; lest, by advancing + too soon, they should be forced to halt where no food could be obtained + for the horses. If the traces of the baggage be too indistinct, the whole + party is to return to Hungry Creek, and we will then attempt the passage + by ascending the main southwest branch of Lewis’ River through the country + of the Shoshonees, over to Madison or Gallatin River. On that route, the + Chopunnish inform us, there is a passage not obstructed by snow at this + period of the year.” + </p> + <p> + On their return to Quamash flats the party met two Indians who, after some + parley, agreed to pilot them over the mountains; these camped where they + were, and the party went on to the flats, having exacted a promise from + the Indians that they would wait there two nights for the white men to + come along. When the party reached their old camp, they found that one of + their hunters had killed a deer, which was a welcome addition to their + otherwise scanty supper. Next day, the hunters met with astonishing luck, + bringing into camp eight deer and three bears. Four of the men were + directed to go to the camp of the two Indians, and if these were bent on + going on, to accompany them and so mark, or blaze, the trees that the rest + of the party would have no difficulty in finding the way, later on. + </p> + <p> + Meanwhile, the men who had been sent back for guides returned, bringing + with them the pleasing information that three Indians whom they brought + with them had consented to guide the party to the great falls of the + Missouri, for the pay of two guns. Accordingly, once more (June 26), they + set out for the mountains, travelling for the third time in twelve days + the route between Quamash flats and the Bitter Root range. For the second + time they ran up against a barrier of snow. They measured the depth of the + snow at the place where they had left their luggage at their previous + repulse and found it to be ten feet and ten inches deep; and it had sunk + four feet since they had been turned back at this point. Pressing on, + after they reached their old camp, they found a bare spot on the side of + the mountain where there was a little grass for their horses; and there + they camped for the night. They were fortunate in having Indian guides + with them; and the journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “The marks on the trees, which had been our chief dependence, are much + fewer and more difficult to be distinguished than we had supposed. But our + guides traverse this trackless region with a kind of instinctive sagacity; + they never hesitate, they are never embarrassed; and so undeviating is + their step, that wherever the snow has disappeared, for even a hundred + paces, we find the summer road. With their aid the snow is scarcely a + disadvantage; for though we are often obliged to slip down, yet the fallen + timber and the rocks, which are now covered, were much more troublesome + when we passed in the autumn. Travelling is indeed comparatively pleasant, + as well as more rapid, the snow being hard and coarse, without a crust, + and perfectly hard enough to prevent the horses sinking more than two or + three inches. After the sun has been on it for some hours it becomes + softer than it is early in the morning; yet they are almost always able to + get a sure foothold.” + </p> + <p> + On the twenty-ninth of June the party were well out of the snows in which + they had been imprisoned, although they were by no means over the mountain + barrier that had been climbed so painfully during the past few days. Here + they observed the tracks of two barefooted Indians who had evidently been + fleeing from their enemies, the Pahkees. These signs disturbed the Indian + guides, for they at once said that the tracks were made by their friends, + the Ootlashoots, and that the Pahkees would also cut them (the guides) off + on their return from the trip over the mountains. On the evening of the + day above mentioned, the party camped at the warm springs which fall into + Traveller’s-rest Creek, a point now well known to the explorers, who had + passed that way before. Of the springs the journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “These warm springs are situated at the foot of a hill on the north side + of Traveller’s-rest Creek, which is ten yards wide at this place. They + issue from the bottoms, and through the interstices of a gray freestone + rock, which rises in irregular masses round their lower side. The + principal spring, which the Indians have formed into a bath by stopping + the run with stone and pebbles, is about the same temperature as the + warmest bath used at the hot springs in Virginia. On trying, Captain Lewis + could with difficulty remain in it nineteen minutes, and then was affected + with a profuse perspiration. The two other springs are much hotter, the + temperature being equal to that of the warmest of the hot springs in + Virginia. Our men, as well as the Indians, amused themselves with going + into the bath; the latter, according to their universal custom, going + first into the hot bath, where they remain as long as they can bear the + heat, then plunging into the creek, which is now of an icy coldness, and + repeating this operation several times, but always ending with the warm + bath.” + </p> + <p> + Traveller’s-rest Creek, it will be recollected, is on the summit of the + Bitter Root Mountains, and the expedition had consequently passed from + Idaho into Montana, as these States now exist on the map; but they were + still on the Pacific side of the Great Divide, or the backbone of the + continent. Much game was seen in this region, and after reaching + Traveller’s-rest Creek, the hunters killed six deer; great numbers of elk + and bighorn were also seen in this vicinity. On the thirtieth of July the + party were at their old camp of September 9 and 10, 1805, having made one + hundred and fifty-six miles from Quamash flats to the mouth of the creek + where they now camped. Here a plan to divide and subdivide the party was + made out as follows:— + </p> + <p> + “Captain Lewis, with nine men, is to pursue the most direct route to the + falls of the Missouri, where three of his party (Thompson, Goodrich, and + McNeal) are to be left to prepare carriages for transporting the baggage + and canoes across the portage. With the remaining six, he will ascend + Maria’s River to explore the country and ascertain whether any branch of + it reaches as far north as latitude 50'0, after which he will descend that + river to its mouth. The rest of the men will accompany Captain Clark to + the head of Jefferson River, which Sergeant Ordway and a party of nine men + will descend, with the canoes and other articles deposited there. Captain + Clark’s party, which will then be reduced to ten men and Sacajawea, will + proceed to the Yellowstone, at its nearest approach to the Three Forks of + the Missouri. There he will build canoes, go down that river with seven of + his party, and wait at its mouth till the rest of the party join him. + Sergeant Pryor, with two others, will then take the horses by land to the + Mandans. From that nation he will go to the British posts on the + Assiniboin with a letter to Mr. Alexander Henry, to procure his endeavors + to prevail on some of the Sioux chiefs to accompany him to the city of + Washington. . . . + </p> + <p> + “The Indians who had accompanied us intended leaving us in order to seek + their friends, the Ootlashoots; but we prevailed on them to accompany + Captain Lewis a part of his route, so as to show him the shortest road to + the Missouri, and in the mean time amused them with conversation and + running races, on foot and with horses, in both of which they proved + themselves hardy, athletic, and active. To the chief Captain Lewis gave a + small medal and a gun, as a reward for having guided us across the + mountains; in return the customary civility of exchanging names passed + between them, by which the former acquired the title of Yomekollick, of + White Bearskin Unfolded.” + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0024" id="link2HCH0024"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XXIV — The Expedition Subdivided + </h2> + <p> + On the third of July, accordingly, Captain Lewis, with nine of his men and + five Indians, proceeded down the valley lying between the Rocky and the + Bitter Root ranges of mountains, his general course being due northwest of + Clark’s fork of the Columbia River. Crossing several small streams that + make into this river, they finally reached and crossed the Missoula River + from west to east, below the confluence of the St. Mary’s and Hell-gate + rivers, or creeks; for these streams hardly deserve the name of rivers. + The party camped for the night within a few miles of the site of the + present city of Missoula, Montana. Here they were forced to part from + their good friends and allies, the Indians, who had crossed the range with + them. These men were afraid that they would be cut off by their foes, the + Pahkees, and they wanted to find and join some band of the Indian nation + with whom they were on terms of friendship. The journal gives this account + of the parting:— + </p> + <p> + “We now smoked a farewell pipe with our estimable companions, who + expressed every emotion of regret at parting with us; which they felt the + more, because they did not conceal their fears of our being cut off by the + Pahkees. We also gave them a shirt, a handkerchief, and a small quantity + of ammunition. The meat which they received from us was dried and left at + this place, as a store during the homeward journey. This circumstance + confirms our belief that there is no route along Clark’s River to the + Columbian plains so near or so good as that by which we came; for, though + these people mean to go for several days’ journey down that river, to look + for the Shalees (Ootlashoots), yet they intend returning home by the same + pass of the mountains through which they have conducted us. This route is + also used by all the nations whom we know west of the mountains who are in + the habit of visiting the plains of the Missouri; while on the other side, + all the war-paths of the Pahkees which fall into this valley of Clark’s + River concentre at Traveller’s-rest, beyond which these people have never + ventured to the west.” + </p> + <p> + During the next day or two, Captain Lewis kept on the same general course + through a well-watered country, the ground gradually rising as he + approached the base of the mountains. Tracks of Indians, supposed to be + Pahkees, became more numerous and fresh. On the seventh of July, the + little company went through the famous pass of the Rocky Mountains, now + properly named for the leaders of the expedition. Here is the journal’s + account of their finding the Lewis and Clark Pass:— + </p> + <p> + “At the distance of twelve miles we left the river, or rather the creek, + and having for four miles crossed two ridges in a direction north fifteen + degrees east, again struck to the right, proceeding through a narrow + bottom covered with low willows and grass, and abundantly supplied with + both deer and beaver. After travelling seven miles we reached the foot of + a ridge, which we ascended in a direction north forty-five degrees east, + through a low gap of easy ascent from the westward; and, on descending it, + were delighted at discovering that this was the dividing ridge between the + waters of the Columbia and those of the Missouri. From this gap Fort + Mountain is about twenty miles in a northeastern direction. We now wound + through the hills and mountains, passing several rivulets which ran to the + right, and at the distance of nine miles from the gap encamped, having + made thirty-two miles. We procured some beaver, and this morning saw + tracks of buffalo, from which it appears that those animals do sometimes + penetrate a short distance among the mountains.” + </p> + <p> + Next day the party found themselves in clover, so to speak. Game was + plenty, and, as their object now was to accumulate meat for the three men + who were to be left at the falls (and who were not hunters), they resolved + to strike the Medicine, or Sun, River and hunt down its banks. On that + river the journal, July 10, has this to say:— + </p> + <p> + “In the plains are great quantities of two species of prickly-pear now in + bloom. Gooseberries of the common red kind are in abundance and just + beginning to ripen, but there are no currants. The river has now widened + to one hundred yards; it is deep, crowded with islands, and in many parts + rapid. At the distance of seventeen miles, the timber disappears totally + from the river-bottoms. About this part of the river, the wind, which had + blown on our backs, and constantly put the elk on their guard, shifted + round; we then shot three of them and a brown bear. Captain Lewis halted + to skin them, while two of the men took the pack-horses forward to seek + for a camp. It was nine o’clock before he overtook them, at the distance + of seven miles, in the first grove of cottonwood. They had been pursued as + they came along by a very large bear, on which they were afraid to fire, + lest their horses, being unaccustomed to the gun, might take fright and + throw them. This circumstance reminds us of the ferocity of these animals, + when we were last near this place, and admonishes us to be very cautious. + We saw vast numbers of buffalo below us, which kept up a dreadful + bellowing during the night. With all our exertions we were unable to + advance more than twenty-four miles, owing to the mire through which we + are obliged to travel, in consequence of the rain.” + </p> + <p> + The Sun, or Medicine, River empties into the Missouri just above the great + falls of that stream; and near here, opposite White Bear Islands, the + expedition had deposited some of their property in a cache dug near the + river bank, when they passed that way, a year before. On the thirteenth of + the month, having reached their old camping-ground here, the party set to + work making boat-gear and preparing to leave their comrades in camp well + fixed for their stay. The journal adds:— + </p> + <p> + “On opening the cache, we found the bearskins entirely destroyed by the + water, which in a flood of the river had penetrated to them. All the + specimens of plants, too, were unfortunately lost: the chart of the + Missouri, however, still remained unhurt, and several articles contained + in trunks and boxes had suffered but little injury; but a vial of laudanum + had lost its stopper, and the liquid had run into a drawer of medicines, + which it spoiled beyond recovery. The mosquitoes were so troublesome that + it was impossible even to write without a mosquito bier. The buffalo were + leaving us fast, on their way to the southeast.” + </p> + <p> + One of the party met with an amusing adventure here, which is thus + described:— + </p> + <p> + “At night M’Neal, who had been sent in the morning to examine the cache at + the lower end of the portage, returned; but had been prevented from + reaching that place by a singular adventure. Just as he arrived near + Willow run, he approached a thicket of brush in which was a white bear, + which he did not discover till he was within ten feet of him. His horse + started, and wheeling suddenly round, threw M’Neal almost immediately + under the bear, which started up instantly. Finding the bear raising + himself on his hind feet to attack him, he struck him on the head with the + butt end of his musket; the blow was so violent that it broke the breech + of the musket and knocked the bear to the ground. Before he recovered + M’Neal, seeing a willow-tree close by, sprang up, and there remained while + the bear closely guarded the foot of the tree until late in the afternoon. + He then went off; M’Neal being released came down, and having found his + horse, which had strayed off to the distance of two miles, returned to + camp. These animals are, indeed, of a most extraordinary ferocity, and it + is matter of wonder that in all our encounters we have had the good + fortune to escape. We are now troubled with another enemy, not quite so + dangerous, though even more disagreeable-these are the mosquitoes, who now + infest us in such myriads that we frequently get them into our throats + when breathing, and the dog even howls with the torture they occasion.” + </p> + <p> + The intention of Captain Lewis was to reach the river sometimes known as + Maria’s, and sometimes as Marais, or swamp. This stream rises near the + boundary between Montana and the British possessions, and flows into the + Missouri, where the modern town of Ophir is built. The men left at the + great falls were to dig up the canoes and baggage that had been cached + there the previous year, and be ready to carry around the portage of the + falls the stuff that would be brought from the two forks of the Jefferson, + later on, by Sergeant Ordway and his party. It will be recollected that + this stuff had also been cached at the forks of the Jefferson, the year + before. The two parties, thus united, were to go down to the entrance of + Maria’s River into the Missouri, and Captain Lewis expected to join them + there by the fifth of August; if he failed to meet them by that time, they + were to go on down the river and meet Captain Clark at the mouth of the + Yellowstone. This explanation is needed to the proper understanding of the + narrative that follows; for we now have to keep track of three parties of + the explorers. + </p> + <p> + Captain Lewis and his men, having travelled northwest about twenty miles + from the great falls of the Missouri, struck the trail of a wounded + buffalo. They were dismayed by the sight, for that assured them that there + were Indians in the vicinity; and the most natural thing to expect was + that these were Blackfeet, or Minnetarees; both of these tribes are + vicious and rascally people, and they would not hesitate to attack a small + party and rob them of their guns, if they thought themselves able to get + away with them. + </p> + <p> + They were now in the midst of vast herds of buffalo, so numerous that the + whole number seemed one immense herd. Hanging on the flanks were many + wolves; hares and antelope were also abundant. On the fourth day out, + Captain Lewis struck the north fork of Maria’s River, now known as + Cut-bank River, in the northwest corner of Montana. He was desirous of + following up the stream, to ascertain, if possible, whether its + fountain-head was below, or above, the boundary between the United States + and the British possessions. Bad weather and an accident to his + chronometer prevented his accomplishing his purpose, and, on the + twenty-sixth of July, he turned reluctantly back, giving the name of Cape + Disappointment to his last camping-place. Later in that day, as they were + travelling down the main stream (Maria’s River), they encountered the + Indians whom they had hoped to avoid. Let us read the story as it is told + in the journal of the party:— + </p> + <p> + “At the distance of three miles we ascended the hills close to the + river-side, while Drewyer pursued the valley of the river on the opposite + side. But scarcely had Captain Lewis reached the high plain when he saw, + about a mile on his left, a collection of about thirty horses. He + immediately halted, and by the aid of his spy-glass discovered that + one-half of the horses were saddled, and that on the eminence above the + horses several Indians were looking down toward the river, probably at + Drewyer. This was a most unwelcome sight. Their probable numbers rendered + any contest with them of doubtful issue; to attempt to escape would only + invite pursuit, and our horses were so bad that we must certainly be + overtaken; besides which, Drewyer could not yet be aware that the Indians + were near, and if we ran he would most probably be sacrificed. We + therefore determined to make the most of our situation, and advance toward + them in a friendly manner. The flag which we had brought in case of any + such accident was therefore displayed, and we continued slowly our march + toward them. Their whole attention was so engaged by Drewyer that they did + not immediately discover us. As soon as they did see us, they appeared to + be much alarmed and ran about in confusion; some of them came down the + hill and drove their horses within gunshot of the eminence, to which they + then returned, as if to await our arrival. When we came within a quarter + of a mile, one of the Indians mounted and rode at full speed to receive + us; but when within a hundred paces of us, he halted. Captain Lewis, who + had alighted to receive him, held out his hand and beckoned to him to + approach; he only looked at us for some time, and then, without saying a + word, returned to his companions with as much haste as he had advanced. + The whole party now descended the hill and rode toward us. As yet we saw + only eight, but presumed that there must be more behind us, as there were + several horses saddled. We however advanced, and Captain Lewis now told + his two men that he believed these were the Minnetarees of Fort de + Prairie, who, from their infamous character, would in all probability + attempt to rob us; but being determined to die rather than lose his papers + and instruments, he intended to resist to the last extremity, and advised + them to do the same, and to be on the alert should there be any + disposition to attack us. When the two parties came within a hundred yards + of each other, all the Indians, except one, halted. Captain Lewis + therefore ordered his two men to halt while he advanced, and after shaking + hands with the Indian, went on and did the same with the others in the + rear, while the Indian himself shook hands with the two men. They all now + came up; and after alighting, the Indians asked to smoke with us. Captain + Lewis, who was very anxious for Drewyer’s safety, told them that the man + who had gone down the river had the pipe, and requested that as they had + seen him, one of them would accompany R. Fields, to bring him back. To + this they assented, and Fields went with a young man in search of + Drewyer.” + </p> + <p> + Captain Lewis now asked them by signs if they were Minnetarees of the + north, and he was sorry to be told in reply that they were; he knew them + to be a bad lot. When asked if they had any chief among them, they pointed + out three. The captain did not believe them, but, in order to keep on good + terms with them, he gave to one a flag, to another a medal, and to the + third a handkerchief. At Captain Lewis’ suggestion, the Indians and the + white men camped together, and in the course of the evening the red men + told the captain that they were part of a big band of their tribe, or + nation. The rest of the tribe, they said, were hunting further up the + river, and were then in camp near the foot of the Rocky Mountains. The + captain, in return, told them that his party had come from the great lake + where the sun sets, and that he was in hopes that he could induce the + Minnetarees to live in peace with their neighbors and come and trade at + the posts that would be established in their country by and by. He offered + them ten horses and some tobacco if they would accompany his party down + the river below the great falls. To this they made no reply. Being still + suspicious of these sullen guests, Captain Lewis made his dispositions for + the night, with orders for the sentry on duty to rouse all hands if the + Indians should attempt to steal anything in the night. Next morning + trouble began. Says the journal:— + </p> + <p> + “At sunrise, the Indians got up and crowded around the fire near which J. + Fields, who was then on watch, had carelessly left his rifle, near the + head of his brother, who was still asleep. One of the Indians slipped + behind him, and, unperceived, took his brother’s and his own rifle, while + at the same time two others seized those of Drewyer and Captain Lewis. As + soon as Fields turned, he saw the Indian running off with the rifles; + instantly calling his brother, they pursued him for fifty or sixty yards; + just as they overtook him, in the scuffle for the rifles R. Fields stabbed + him through the heart with his knife. The Indian ran about fifteen steps + and fell dead. They now ran back with their rifles to the camp. The moment + the fellow touched his gun, Drewyer, who was awake, jumped up and wrested + it from him. The noise awoke Captain Lewis, who instantly started from the + ground and reached for his gun; but finding it gone, drew a pistol from + his belt, and turning saw the Indian running off with it. He followed him + and ordered him to lay it down, which he did just as the two Fields came + up, and were taking aim to shoot him; when Captain Lewis ordered them not + to fire, as the Indian did not appear to intend any mischief. He dropped + the gun and was going slowly off when Drewyer came out and asked + permission to kill him; but this Captain Lewis forbade, as he had not yet + attempted to shoot us. But finding that the Indians were now endeavoring + to drive off all the horses, he ordered all three of us to follow the main + party, who were chasing the horses up the river, and fire instantly upon + the thieves; while he, without taking time to run for his shot-pouch, + pursued the fellow who had stolen his gun and another Indian, who were + driving away the horses on the left of the camp. He pressed them so + closely that they left twelve of their horses, but continued to drive off + one of our own. + </p> + <p> + “At the distance of three hundred paces they entered a steep niche in the + river-bluffs, when Captain Lewis, being too much out of breath to pursue + them any further, called out, as he had done several times before, that + unless they gave up the horse he would shoot them. As he raised his gun + one of the Indians jumped behind a rock and spoke to the other, who + stopped at the distance of thirty paces. Captain Lewis shot him in the + belly. He fell on his knees and right elbow; but, raising himself a + little, fired, and then crawled behind a rock. The shot had nearly proved + fatal; for Captain Lewis, who was bareheaded, felt the wind of the ball + very distinctly. Not having his shot-pouch, he could not reload his rifle; + and, having only a single charge also for his pistol, he thought it most + prudent not to attack them farther, and retired slowly to the camp. He was + met by Drewyer, who, hearing the report of the guns, had come to his + assistance, leaving the Fields to follow the other Indians. Captain Lewis + ordered him to call out to them to desist from the pursuit, as we could + take the horses of the Indians in place of our own; but they were at too + great a distance to hear him. He therefore returned to the camp, and while + he was saddling the horses the Fields returned with four of our own, + having followed the Indians until two of them swam the river and two + others ascended the hills, so that the horses became dispersed.” + </p> + <p> + The white men were gainers by this sad affair, for they had now in their + possession four of the Indians’ horses, and had lost one of their own. + Besides these, they found in the camp of the Indians four shields, two + bows and their quivers, and one of their two guns. The captain took some + buffalo meat which he found in the camp, and then the rest of their + baggage was burned on the spot. The flag given to one of the so-called + chiefs was retaken; but the medal given to the dead man was left around + his neck. The consequences of this unfortunate quarrel were far-reaching. + The tribe whose member was killed by the white men never forgave the + injury, and for years after there was no safety for white men in their + vicinity except when the wayfarers were in great numbers or strongly + guarded. + </p> + <p> + A forced march was now necessary for the explorers, and they set out as + speedily as possible, well knowing that the Indians would be on their + trail. By three o’clock in the afternoon of that day they had reached + Tansy River, now known as the Teton, having travelled sixty-three miles. + They rested for an hour and a half to refresh their horses, and then + pushed on for seventeen miles further before camping again. Having killed + a buffalo, they had supper and stopped two hours. Then, travelling through + vast herds of buffalo until two o’clock in the morning, they halted again, + almost dead with fatigue; they rested until daylight. On awaking, they + found themselves so stiff and sore with much riding that they could + scarcely stand. But the lives of their friends now at or near the mouth of + Maria’s River were at stake, as well as their own. Indeed, it was not + certain but that the Indians had, by hard riding and a circuitous route, + already attacked the river party left at the falls. So Captain Lewis told + his men that they must go on, and, if attacked, they must tie their horses + together by the head and stand together, selling their lives as dearly as + possible, or routing their enemies. The journal now says:— + </p> + <p> + “To this they all assented, and we therefore continued our route to the + eastward, till at the distance of twelve miles we came near the Missouri, + when we heard a noise which seemed like the report of a gun. We therefore + quickened our pace for eight miles farther, and, being about five miles + from Grog Spring, now heard distinctly the noise of several rifles from + the river. We hurried to the bank, and saw with exquisite satisfaction our + friends descending the river. They landed to greet us, and after turning + our horses loose, we embarked with our baggage, and went down to the spot + where we had made a deposite. This, after reconnoitring the adjacent + country, we opened; but, unfortunately, the cache had caved in, and most + of the articles were injured. We took whatever was still worth preserving, + and immediately proceeded to the point, where we found our deposits in + good order. By a singular good fortune, we were here joined by Sergeant + Gass and Willard from the Falls, who had been ordered to come with the + horses here to assist in procuring meat for the voyage, as it had been + calculated that the canoes would reach this place much sooner than Captain + Lewis’s party. After a very heavy shower of rain and hail, attended with + violent thunder and lightning, we started from the point, and giving a + final discharge to our horses, went over to the island where we had left + our red pirogue, which, however, we found much decayed, and we had no + means of repairing her. We therefore took all the iron work out of her, + and, proceeding down the river fifteen miles, encamped near some + cottonwood trees, one of which was of the narrow-leafed species, and the + first of that kind we had remarked in ascending the river. + </p> + <p> + “Sergeant Ordway’s party, which had left the mouth of Madison River on the + thirteenth, had descended in safety to White Bear Island, where he arrived + on the nineteenth, and, after collecting the baggage, had left the falls + on the twenty-seventh in the white pirogue and five canoes, while Sergeant + Gass and Willard set out at the same time by land with the horses, and + thus fortunately met together.” + </p> + <p> + Sergeant Ordway’s party, it will be recollected, had left Captain Clark at + the three forks of the Missouri, to which they had come down the + Jefferson, and thence had passed down the Missouri to White Bear Islands, + and, making the portage, had joined the rest of the party just in time to + reinforce them. Game was now abundant the buffalo being in enormous herds; + and the bighorn were also numerous; the flesh of these animals was in fine + condition, resembling the best of mutton in flavor. The reunited party now + descended the river, the intention being to reach the mouth of the + Yellowstone as soon as possible, and there wait for Captain Clark, who, it + will be recalled, was to explore that stream and meet them at the point of + its junction with the Missouri. The voyage of Captain Lewis and his men + was without startling incident, except that Cruzatte accidentally shot the + captain, one day, while they were out hunting. The wound was through the + fleshy part of the left thigh, and for a time was very painful. As + Cruzatte was not in sight when the captain was hit, the latter naturally + thought he had been shot by Indians hiding in the thicket. He reached camp + as best he could, and, telling his men to arm themselves, he explained + that he had been shot by Indians. But when Cruzatte came into camp, mutual + explanations satisfied all hands that a misunderstanding had arisen and + that Cruzatte’s unlucky shot was accidental. As an example of the + experience of the party about this time, while they were on their way down + the Missouri, we take this extract from their journal:— + </p> + <p> + “We again saw great numbers of buffalo, elk, antelope, deer, and wolves; + also eagles and other birds, among which were geese and a solitary + pelican, neither of which can fly at present, as they are now shedding the + feathers of their wings. We also saw several bears, one of them the + largest, except one, we had ever seen; for he measured nine feet from the + nose to the extremity of the tail. During the night a violent storm came + on from the northeast with such torrents of rain that we had scarcely time + to unload the canoes before they filled with water. Having no shelter we + ourselves were completely wet to the skin, and the wind and cold air made + our situation very unpleasant.” + </p> + <p> + On the twelfth of August, the Lewis party met with two traders from + Illinois. These men were camped on the northeast side of the river; they + had left Illinois the previous summer, and had been coming up the Missouri + hunting and trapping. Captain Lewis learned from them that Captain Clark + was below; and later in that day the entire expedition was again united, + Captain Clark’s party being found at a point near where Little Knife Creek + enters the Missouri River. We must now take up the narrative of Captain + Clark and his adventures on the Yellowstone. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0025" id="link2HCH0025"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XXV — Adventures on the Yellowstone + </h2> + <p> + The route of Captain Clark from the point where he and Captain Lewis + divided their party, was rather more difficult than that pursued by the + Lewis detachment. But the Clark party was larger, being composed of twenty + men and Sacajawea and her baby. They were to travel up the main fork of + Clark’s River (sometimes called the Bitter Root), to Ross’s Hole, and then + strike over the great continental divide at that point by way of the pass + which he discovered and which was named for him; thence he was to strike + the headwaters of Wisdom River, a stream which this generation of men + knows by the vulgar name of Big Hole River; from this point he was to go + by the way of Willard’s Creek to Shoshonee Cove and the Two Forks of the + Jefferson, and thence down that stream to the Three Forks of the Missouri, + up the Gallatin, and over the divide to the Yellowstone and down that + river to its junction with the Missouri, where he was to join the party of + Captain Lewis. This is the itinerary that was exactly carried out. The + very first incident set forth in the journal is a celebration of + Independence Day, as follows:— + </p> + <p> + “Friday, July 4. Early in the morning three hunters were sent out. The + rest of the party having collected the horses and breakfasted, we + proceeded at seven o’clock up the valley, which is now contracted to the + width of from eight to ten miles, with a good proportion of pitch-pine, + though its low lands, as well as the bottoms of the creeks, are strewn + with large stones. We crossed five creeks of different sizes, but of great + depth, and so rapid that in passing the last several of the horses were + driven down the stream, and some of our baggage was wet. Near this river + we saw the tracks of two Indians, whom we supposed to be Shoshonees. + Having made sixteen miles, we halted at an hour for the purpose of doing + honor to the birthday of our early country’s independence. The festival + was not very splendid, for it consisted of a mush made of cows and a + saddle of venison; nor had we anything to tempt us to prolong it. We + therefore went on till at the distance of a mile we came to a very large + creek, which, like all those in the valley, had an immense rapidity of + descent; we therefore proceeded up for some distance, in order to select + the most convenient spot for fording. Even there, however, such was the + violence of the current that, though the water was not higher than the + bellies of the horses, the resistance made in passing caused the stream to + rise over their backs and loads. After passing the creek we inclined to + the left, and soon after struck the road which we had descended last year, + near the spot where we dined on the 7th of September (1805). Along this + road we continued on the west side of Clark’s River, till at the distance + of thirteen miles, during which we passed three more deep, large creeks, + we reached its western branch, where we camped; and having sent out two + hunters, despatched some men to examine the best ford across the west fork + of the river. The game to-day consisted of four deer; though we also saw a + herd of ibex, or bighorn.” + </p> + <p> + Two days later they were high up among the mountains, although the ascent + was not very steep. At that height they found the weather very cool, so + much so that on the morning of the sixth of July, after a cold night, they + had a heavy white frost on the ground. Setting out on that day, Captain + Clark crossed a ridge which proved to be the dividing line between the + Pacific and the Atlantic watershed. At the same time he passed from what + is now Missoula County, Montana, into the present county of Beaver Head, + in that State. “Beaver Head,” the reader will recollect, comes from a + natural elevation in that region resembling the head of a beaver. These + points will serve to fix in one’s mind the route of the first exploring + party that ever ventured into those wilds; descending the ridge on its + eastern slope, the explorers struck Glade Creek, one of the sources of the + stream then named Wisdom River, a branch of the Jefferson; and the + Jefferson is one of the tributaries of the mighty Missouri. Next day the + journal has this entry:— + </p> + <p> + “In the morning our horses were so much scattered that, although we sent + out hunters in every direction to range the country for six or eight + miles, nine of them could not be recovered. They were the most valuable of + all our horses, and so much attached to some of their companions that it + was difficult to separate them in the daytime. We therefore presumed that + they must have been stolen by some roving Indians; and accordingly left a + party of five men to continue the pursuit, while the rest went on to the + spot where the canoes had been deposited. We set out at ten o’clock and + pursued a course S. 56'0 E. across the valley, which we found to be + watered by four large creeks, with extensive low and miry bottoms; and + then reached (and crossed) Wisdom River, along the northeast side of which + we continued, till at the distance of sixteen miles we came to its three + branches. Near that place we stopped for dinner at a hot spring situated + in the open plain. The bed of the spring is about fifteen yards in + circumference, and composed of loose, hard, gritty stones, through which + the water boils in great quantities. It is slightly impregnated with + sulphur, and so hot that a piece of meat about the size of three fingers + was completely done in twenty-five minutes.” + </p> + <p> + Next day, July 8, the party reached the forks of the Jefferson River, + where they had cached their goods in August, 1805; they had now travelled + one hundred and sixty-four miles from Traveller’s-rest Creek to that + point. The men were out of tobacco, and as there was some among the goods + deposited in the cache they made haste to open the cache. They found + everything safe, although some of the articles were damp, and a hole had + been made in the bottom of one of the canoes. Here they were overtaken by + Sergeant Ordway and his party with the nine horses that had escaped during + the night of the seventh. + </p> + <p> + That night the weather was so cold that water froze in a basin to a + thickness of three-quarters of an inch, and the grass around the camp was + stiff with frost, although the month of July was nearly a week old. The + boats taken from the cache were now loaded, and the explorers were divided + into two bands, one to descend the river by boat and the other to take the + same general route on horseback, the objective point being the + Yellowstone. The story is taken tip here by the journal in these lines:— + </p> + <p> + “After breakfast (July 10) the two parties set out, those on shore + skirting the eastern side of Jefferson River, through Service (-berry) + Valley and over Rattlesnake Mountain, into a beautiful and extensive + country, known among the Indians by the name of Hahnahappapchah, or + Beaverhead Valley, from the number of those animals to be found in it, and + also from the point of land resembling the head of a beaver. It (the + valley) extends from Rattlesnake Mountain as low as Frazier’s Creek, and + is about fifty miles in length in direct line; while its width varies from + ten to fifteen miles, being watered in its whole course by Jefferson River + and six different creeks. The valley is open and fertile; besides the + innumerable quantities of beaver and otter with which its creeks are + supplied, the bushes of the low grounds are a favorite resort for deer; + while on the higher parts of the valley are seen scattered groups of + antelopes, and still further, on the steep sides of the mountains, are + observed many bighorns, which take refuge there from the wolves and bears. + At the distance of fifteen miles the two parties stopped to dine; when + Captain Clark, finding that the river became wider and deeper, and that + the canoes could advance more rapidly than the horses, determined to go + himself by water, leaving Sergeant Pryor with six men to bring on the + horses. In this way they resumed their journey after dinner, and camped on + the eastern side of the river, opposite the head of Three-thousand-mile + Island. The beaver were basking in great numbers along the shore; there + were also some young wild geese and ducks. The mosquitoes were very + troublesome during the day, but after sunset the weather became cool and + they disappeared.” + </p> + <p> + Three-thousand-mile Island was so named by the explorers, when they + ascended these streams, because it was at a point exactly three thousand + miles from the mouth of the Missouri. But no such island exists now; it + has probably been worn away by the swift-rushing current of the river. The + route of Captain Clark and his party, up to this time had been a few miles + west of Bannock City, Montana. As the captain was now to proceed by land + to the Yellowstone, again leaving the canoe party, it is well to recall + the fact that his route from the Three Forks of the Missouri to the + Yellowstone follows pretty nearly the present line of the railroad from + Gallatin City to Livingston, by the way of Bozeman Pass. Of this route the + journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “Throughout the whole, game was very abundant. They procured deer in the + low grounds; beaver and otter were seen in Gallatin River, and elk, + wolves, eagles, hawks, crows, and geese at different parts of the route. + The plain was intersected by several great roads leading to a gap in the + mountains, about twenty miles distant, in a direction E.N.E.; but the + Indian woman, who was acquainted with the country, recommended a gap more + to the southward. This course Captain Clark determined to pursue.” + </p> + <p> + Let us pause here to pay a little tribute to the memory of “the Indian + woman,” Sacajawea. She showed that she was very observant, had a good + memory, and was plucky and determined when in trouble. She was the guide + of the exploring party when she was in a region of country, as here, with + which she was familiar. She remembered localities which she had not seen + since her childhood. When their pirogue was upset by the carelessness of + her husband, it was she who saved the goods and helped to right the boat. + And, with her helpless infant clinging to her, she rode with the men, + guiding them with unerring skill through the mountain fastnesses and + lonely passes which the white men saw for the first time when their + salient features were pointed out to them by the intelligent and faithful + Sacajawea. The Indian woman has long since departed to the Happy + Hunting-Grounds of her fathers; only her name and story remain to us who + follow the footsteps of the brave pioneers of the western continent. But + posterity should not forget the services which were rendered to the white + race by Sacajawea. + </p> + <p> + On the fifteenth of July the party arrived at the ridge that divides the + Missouri and the Yellowstone, nine miles from which they reached the river + itself, about a mile and a half from the point where it issues from the + Rocky Mountains. Their journey down the valley of the Yellowstone was + devoid of special interest, but was accompanied with some hardships. For + example, the feet of the horses had become so sore with long travel over a + stony trail that it was necessary to shoe them with raw buffalo hide. Rain + fell frequently and copiously; and often, sheltered at night only by + buffalo hides, they rose in the morning drenched to the skin. The party + could not follow the course of the river very closely, but were compelled + often to cross hills that came down to the bank, making the trail + impassable for horses. Here is the story of July 18 and 19:— + </p> + <p> + “Gibson, one of the party, was so badly hurt by falling on a sharp point + of wood that he was unable to sit on his horse, and they were obliged to + form a sort of litter for him, so that he could lie nearly at full length. + The wound became so painful, however, after proceeding a short distance, + that he could not bear the motion, and they left him with two men, while + Captain Clark went to search for timber large enough to form canoes. He + succeeded in finding some trees of sufficient size for small canoes, two + of which he determined to construct, and by lashing them together hoped to + make them answer the purpose of conveying the party down the river, while + a few of his men should conduct the horses to the Mandans. All hands, + therefore, were set busily to work, and they were employed in this labor + for several days. In the mean time no less than twenty-four of their + horses were missing, and they strongly suspected had been stolen by the + Indians, for they were unable to find them, notwithstanding they made the + most diligent search.” + </p> + <p> + “July 23. A piece of a robe and a moccasin,” says the journal, “were + discovered this morning not far from the camp. The moccasin was worn out + in the sole, and yet wet, and had every appearance of having been left but + a few hours before. This was conclusive that the Indians had taken our + horses, and were still prowling about for the remainder, which fortunately + escaped last night by being in a small prairie surrounded by thick timber. + At length Labiche, one of our best trackers, returned from a very wide + circuit, and informed Captain Clark that he had traced the horses bending + their course rather down the river towards the open plains, and from their + tracks, must have been going very rapidly. All hopes of recovering them + were now abandoned. Nor were the Indians the only plunderers around our + camp; for in the night the wolves or dogs stole the greater part of the + dried meat from the scaffold. The wolves, which constantly attend the + buffalo, were here in great numbers, as this seemed to be the commencement + of the buffalo country. . . . + </p> + <p> + “At noon the two canoes were finished. They were twenty-eight feet long, + sixteen or eighteen inches deep, and from sixteen to twenty-four inches + wide; and, having lashed them together, everything was ready for setting + out the next day, Gibson having now recovered. Sergeant Pryor was + directed, with Shannon and Windsor, to take the remaining horses to the + Mandans, and if he should find that Mr. Henry (a trading-post agent) was + on the Assiniboin River, to go thither and deliver him a letter, the + object of which was to prevail on the most distinguished chiefs of the + Sioux to accompany him to Washington.” + </p> + <p> + On a large island near the mouth of a creek now known as Canyon Creek, the + party landed to explore an extensive Indian lodge which seems to have been + built for councils, rather than for a place of residence. The lodge was + shaped like a cone, sixty feet in diameter at the base and tapering + towards the top. The poles of which it was constructed were forty-five + feet long. The interior was strangely decorated, the tops of the poles + being ornamented with eagles’ feathers, and from the centre hung a stuffed + buffalo-hide. A buffalo’s head and other trophies of the chase were + disposed about the wigwam. The valley, as the explorers descended the + river, was very picturesque and wonderful. On the north side the cliffs + were wild and romantic, and these were soon succeeded by rugged hills, and + these, in turn, by open plains on which were descried herds of buffalo, + elk, and wolves. On the twenty-seventh of July, having reached the + Bighorn, one of the largest tributaries of the Yellowstone, the party have + this entry in their journal:— + </p> + <p> + “They again set out very early, and on leaving the Bighorn took a last + look at the Rocky Mountains, which had been constantly in view from the + first of May. The (Yellowstone) river now widens to the extent of from + four hundred to six hundred yards; it is much divided by islands and + sandbars; its banks are generally low and falling in; it thus resembles + the Missouri in many particulars, but its islands are more numerous, its + waters less muddy, and the current is more rapid. The water is of a + yellowish-white, and the round stones, which form the bars above the + Bighorn, have given place to gravel. On the left side the river runs under + cliffs of light, soft, gritty stone, varying in height from seventy to one + hundred feet, behind which are level and extensive plains. On the right + side of the river are low extensive bottoms, bordered with cottonwood, + various species of willow, rose-bushes, grapevines, redberry or + buffalo-grease bushes, and a species of sumach; to these succeed high + grounds supplied with pine, and still further on are level plains. + Throughout the country are vast quantities of buffalo, which, as this is + the running-season, keep up a continued bellowing. Large herds of elk also + are lying on every point, so gentle that they may be approached within + twenty paces without being alarmed. Several beaver were seen in the course + of the day; indeed, there is a greater appearance of those animals than + there was above the Bighorn. Deer, however, are by no means abundant, and + antelopes, as well as bighorns, are scarce.” + </p> + <p> + It is noticeable that the explorers, all along their route, gave to + streams, rocks, mountains, and other natural features of the country many + names that appear to us meaningless and trifling. It would appear that + they used up all the big names, such as Jefferson, Gallatin, Philosophy, + Philanthropy, and the like, and were compelled to use, first, the names of + their own party, and then such titles as were suggested by trifling + incidents. For example, when they reached a difficult shoal on the + Yellowstone River, they named that Buffalo Shoal because they found a + buffalo on it; and Buffalo Shoal it remains unto this day. In like manner, + when they reached a dangerous rapid, twenty miles below that point, they + saw a bear standing on a rock in the stream; and Bear Rapid the place was + and is named. Bear and buffalo were pretty numerous all the way along that + part of the river which they navigated in July. They had now rejoined the + boats, and on the last day of July, when camped at a point two miles above + Wolf Rapid (so called from seeing a wolf there), the buffalo were + continually prowling about the camp at night, exciting much alarm lest + they should trample on the boats and ruin them. In those days, buffalo + were so numerous that they were a nuisance to travellers; and they were so + free from fear of man that they were too familiar with the camps and + equipage. On the first of August we find this entry in the journal of the + party:— + </p> + <p> + “The buffalo now appear in vast numbers. A herd happened to be on their + way across the river. Such was the multitude of these animals that, though + the river, including an island over which they passed, was a mile wide, + the herd stretched, as thickly as they could swim, from one side to the + other, and the party was obliged to stop for an hour. They consoled + themselves for the delay by killing four of the herd; and then having + proceeded for the distance of forty-five miles (in all to-day) to an + island, below which two other herds of buffalo, as numerous as the first, + soon after crossed the river.” + </p> + <p> + Again, on the very next day, we find this entry:— + </p> + <p> + “The river was now about a mile wide, less rapid, and more divided by + islands, and bars of sand and mud, than heretofore; the low grounds, too, + were more extensive, and contained a greater quantity of cottonwood, ash, + and willows. On the northwest was a low, level plain, and on the southeast + some rugged hills, on which we saw, without being able to approach them, + some bighorns. Buffalo and elk, as well as their pursuers, the wolves, + were in great numbers. On each side of the river there were several dry + beds of streams, but the only one of any considerable size was one to + which they gave the name of Ibex River, on the right, about thirty yards + wide, and sixteen miles from their encampment of the preceding night. The + bear, which had given them so much trouble at the head of the Missouri, + they found equally fierce here. One of these animals, which was on a + sand-bar as the boat passed, raised himself on his hind feet, and after + looking at the party for a moment, plunged in and swam towards them; but, + after receiving three balls in the body, he turned and made for the shore. + Towards evening they saw another enter the water to swim across; when + Captain Clark directed the boat towards the shore, and just as the animal + landed shot it in the head. It proved to be the largest female they had + ever seen, and was so old that its tusks were worn quite smooth. The boats + escaped with difficulty between two herds of buffalo that were crossing + the river, and came near being again detained by them. Among the elk of + this neighborhood they saw an unusual number of males, while higher up the + herds consisted chiefly of females.” + </p> + <p> + It is almost incredible that these wild animals should have been so nearly + exterminated by hunters and other rovers of the plains, very soon after + travel set in across the continent. The writer of these lines, who crossed + the plains to California so lately as 1856, saw buffalo killed for the + sake of their tongues, or to give rifle practice to the wayfarers. After + the overland railroad was opened, passengers shot buffalo from the + car-windows, well knowing that they could not get their game, even if they + should kill as they flew by a herd. There are no buffalo nor elk where + millions once roamed almost unmolested. + </p> + <p> + Early in the afternoon of August 3, the party reached the junction of the + Yellowstone and the Missouri, and camped on the same spot where they had + pitched their tents on the 26th of April, 1805. They were nearing the end + of their long journey. + </p> + <p> + But their troubles thickened as they drew near the close of their many + miles of travel. The journal for August 4 has this record:— + </p> + <p> + “The camp became absolutely uninhabitable in consequence of the multitude + of mosquitoes; the men could not work in preparing skins for clothing, nor + hunt in the timbered low grounds; there was no mode of escape, except by + going on the sand-bars in the river, where, if the wind should blow, the + insects do not venture; but when there is no wind, and particularly at + night, when the men have no covering except their worn-out blankets, the + pain they suffer is scarcely to be endured. There was also a want of meat, + for no buffalo were to be found; and though elk are very abundant, yet + their fat and flesh is more difficult to dry in the sun, and is also much + more easily spoiled than the meat or fat of either deer or buffalo. + </p> + <p> + “Captain Clark therefore determined to go on to some spot which should be + free from mosquitoes and furnish more game. Having written a note to + Captain Lewis, to inform him of his intention, and stuck it on a pole at + the confluence of the two rivers, he loaded the canoes at five in the + afternoon, proceeded down the river to the second point, and camped on a + sand-bar; but here the mosquitoes seemed to be even more numerous than + above. The face of the Indian child was considerably puffed up and swollen + with their bites; the men could procure scarcely any sleep during the + night, and the insects continued to harass them next morning, as they + proceeded. On one occasion Captain Clark went on shore and ascended a hill + after one of the bighorns; but the mosquitoes were in such multitudes that + he could not keep them from the barrel of his rifle long enough to take + aim. About ten o’clock, however, a light breeze sprung up from the + northwest, and dispersed them in some degree. Captain Clark then landed on + a sand-bar, intending to wait for Captain Lewis, and went out to hunt. But + not finding any buffalo, he again proceeded in the afternoon; and having + killed a large white bear, camped under a high bluff exposed to a light + breeze from the southwest, which blew away the mosquitoes. About eleven + o’clock, however, the wind became very high and a storm of rain came on, + which lasted for two hours, accompanied with sharp lightning and loud + peals of thunder. + </p> + <p> + “The party rose, next day, very wet, and proceeded to a sand-bar below the + entrance of Whiteearth River. Just above this place the Indians, + apparently within seven, or eight days past, had been digging a root which + they employ in making a kind of soup. Having fixed their tents, the men + were employed in dressing skins and hunting. They shot a number of deer; + but only two of them were fat, owing probably to the great quantities of + mosquitoes which annoy them while feeding.” + </p> + <p> + On the eleventh of August the Clark party came up with the two white + traders from Illinois, of whom we have already made mention as having been + met by the Lewis party on their way down the river. These were the first + white men they had seen (except themselves) since they parted with the + three French trappers, near the Little Missouri, in April, 1805, From them + the wayworn voyagers received the latest news from the United States. From + them they also had some unfavorable tidings. The journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “These men had met the boat which we had despatched from Fort Mandan, on + board of which, they were told, was a Ricara chief on his way to + Washington; and also another party of Yankton chiefs, accompanying Mr. + Durion on a visit of the same kind. We were sorry to learn that the + Mandans and Minnetarees were at war with the Ricaras, and had killed two + of them. The Assiniboins too are at war with the Mandans. They have, in + consequence, prohibited the Northwestern Company from trading to the + Missouri, and even killed two of their traders near Mouse River; they are + now lying in wait for Mr. McKenzie of the Northwestern Company, who has + been for a long time among the Minnetarees. These appearances are rather + unfavorable to our project of carrying some of the chiefs to the United + States; but we still hope that, by effecting a peace between the Mandans, + Minnetarees, and Ricaras, the views of our Government may be + accomplished.” + </p> + <p> + Next day, August 12, 1806, the party, slowly descending the river, were + overjoyed to see below them the little flotilla of Captain Lewis and his + men. But they were alarmed when they discovered that Lewis was not with + them; as the boats landed at the shore, the captain was not to be seen. + Captain Clark’s party, on coming up with their friends, were told that + Lewis was lying in the pirogue, having been accidentally wounded. The + whole party were now happily reunited, and they were soon joined by the + two Illinois traders whom they had met up the river; these men wished to + accompany the expedition down the river as far as the Mandan nation, for + the purpose of trading; they were more secure with a large party of white + men than they would be if left to themselves. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0026" id="link2HCH0026"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XXVI — The End of a Long Journey + </h2> + <p> + The reunited party now set out for the lower river and proceeded rapidly + down-stream, favored with a good wind. They made eighty-six miles on the + first day, passing the mouth of the Little Missouri early in the forenoon, + and camping at Miry River, on the northeast side of the Missouri. On the + second day they arrived at the principal village of the Minnetarees, where + they were received with cordial welcome by their old friends. The + explorers fired their blunderbuss several times by way of salute, and the + Indian chiefs expressed their satisfaction at the safe return of the white + men. One of the Minnetaree chiefs, however, wept bitterly at the sight of + the whites, and it was explained by his friends that their coming reminded + him of the death of his son, who had been lately killed by the Blackfoot + Indians. + </p> + <p> + Arriving at the village of the Mandans, of which Black Cat was the chief, + a council was called, and the chiefs of the expedition endeavored to + persuade some of the leading men of the tribe to accompany them to + Washington to see “the Great Father.” Black Cat expressed his strong + desire to visit the United States and see the Great Father, but he was + afraid of the Sioux, their ancient enemies, through whose territory they + must pass on their way down to the white man’s country. This chief, it + will be recollected, was given a flag and a medal by the two captains when + they passed up the river on their way to the Rocky Mountains and the + Pacific coast. The flag was now brought on and hoisted on the lodge of + Black Cat. On that occasion, also, the commanders of the expedition had + given the Indians a number of useful articles, among them being a portable + corn-mill. But the Indians had other uses for metal, and they had taken + the mill apart and used the iron for the purpose of making barbs for their + arrows. From the Omahas, who were located here, the white men received a + present of as much corn as three men could carry. Black Cat also gave them + a dozen bushels of corn. + </p> + <p> + Their days of starvation and famine were over. They were next visited by + Le Borgne, better known as One-eye, the head chief of all the Minnetarees, + to whom Lewis and Clark also extended an invitation to go to Washington to + see the Great Father. The journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “Le Borgne began by declaring that he much desired to visit his Great + Father, but that the Sioux would certainly kill any of the Mandans who + should attempt to go down the river. They were bad people, and would not + listen to any advice. When he saw us last, we had told him that we had + made peace with all the nations below; yet the Sioux had since killed + eight of his tribe, and stolen a number of their horses. The Ricaras too + had stolen their horses, and in the contest his people had killed two of + the Ricaras. Yet in spite of these dispositions he had always had his ears + open to our counsels, and had actually made a peace with the Chayennes and + the Indians of the Rocky Mountains. He concluded by saying, that however + disposed they were to visit the United States, the fear of the Sioux would + prevent them from going with us.” + </p> + <p> + The truth was that One-eye had no notion of going to Washington; he was + afraid of nobody, and his plea of possible danger among the Sioux was mere + nonsense to deceive the white men. Captain Clark visited the village of + Black Cat, and that worthy savage made the same excuse that Le Borgne + (One-eye) had already put forth; he was afraid of the Sioux. The journal + adds:— + </p> + <p> + “Captain Clark then spoke to the chiefs and warriors of the village. He + told them of his anxiety that some of them should see their Great Father, + hear his good words, and receive his gifts; and requested them to fix on + some confidential chief who might accompany us. To this they made the same + objections as before; till at length a young man offered to go, and the + warriors all assented to it. But the character of this man was known to be + bad; and one of the party with Captain Clark informed him that at the + moment he (this Indian) had in his possession a knife which he had stolen. + Captain Clark therefore told the chief of this theft, and ordered the + knife to be given up. This was done with a poor apology for having it in + his possession, and Captain Clark then reproached the chiefs for wishing + to send such a fellow to see and hear so distinguished a person as their + Great Father. They all hung down their heads for some time, till Black Cat + apologized by saying that the danger was such that they were afraid of + sending any one of their chiefs, as they considered his loss almost + inevitable.” + </p> + <p> + Although there was so much reluctance on the part of the Indians to leave + their roving life, even for a few months, there were some white men among + the explorers who were willing to give up their home in “the States.” The + journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “In the evening Colter applied to us for permission to join the two + trappers who had accompanied us, and who now proposed an expedition up the + river, in which they were to find traps and to give him a share of the + profits. The offer was a very advantageous one; and as he had always + performed his duty, and his services could be dispensed with, we consented + to his going upon condition that none of the rest were to ask or expect a + similar indulgence. To this they all cheerfully assented, saying that they + wished Colter every success, and would not apply for liberty to separate + before we reached St. Louis. We therefore supplied him, as did his + comrades also, with powder and lead, and a variety of articles which might + be useful to him, and he left us the next day. The example of this man + shows how easily men may be weaned from the habits of civilized life to + the ruder, though scarcely less fascinating, manners of the woods. This + hunter had now been absent for many years from the frontiers, and might + naturally be presumed to have some anxiety, or at least curiosity, to + return to his friends and his country; yet, just at the moment when he was + approaching the frontiers, he was tempted by a hunting scheme to give up + all those delightful prospects, and to go back without the least + reluctance to the solitude of the wilds.” + </p> + <p> + The two captains learned here that the Minnetarees had sent out a + war-party against the Shoshonees, very soon after the white men’s + expedition had left for the Rocky Mountains, notwithstanding their promise + to keep peace with the surrounding tribes. They had also sent a war-party + against the Ricaras, two of whom they killed. Accordingly, the white + chiefs had a powwow with the Indian chiefs, at which the journal says + these incidents occurred:— + </p> + <p> + “We took this opportunity of endeavoring to engage Le Borgne in our + interests by a present of the swivel, which is no longer serviceable, as + it cannot be discharged from our largest pirogue. It was loaded; and the + chiefs being formed into a circle round it, Captain Clark addressed them + with great ceremony. He said that he had listened with much attention to + what had yesterday been declared by Le Borgne, whom he believed to be + sincere, and then reproached them with their disregard of our counsels, + and their wars on the Shoshonees and Ricaras. Little Cherry, the old + Minnetaree chief, answered that they had long stayed at home and listened + to our advice, but at last went to war against the Sioux because their + horses had been stolen and their companions killed; and that in an + expedition against those people they met the Ricaras, who were on their + way to strike them, and a battle ensued. But in future he said they would + attend to our words and live at peace. Le Borgne added that his ears would + always be open to the words of his Good Father, and shut against bad + counsel. Captain Clark then presented to Le Borgne the swivel, which he + told him had announced the words of his Great Father to all the nations we + had seen, and which, whenever it was fired, should recall those which we + had delivered to him. The gun was discharged, and Le Borgne had it + conveyed in great pomp to his village. The council then adjourned.” + </p> + <p> + After much diplomacy and underhand scheming, one of the Mandan chiefs, Big + White, agreed to go to Washington with the expedition. But none of the + Minnetarees could be prevailed upon to leave their tribe, even for a + journey to the Great Father, of whose power and might so much had been + told them. The journal, narrating this fact, says further:— + </p> + <p> + “The principal chiefs of the Minnetarees now came down to bid us farewell, + as none of them could be prevailed on to go with us. This circumstance + induced our interpreter, Chaboneau, to remain here with his wife and + child, as he could no longer be of use to us, and, although we offered to + take him with us to the United States, he declined, saying that there he + had no acquaintance, and no chance of making a livelihood, and preferred + remaining among the Indians. This man had been very serviceable to us, and + his wife was particularly useful among the Shoshonees: indeed, she had + borne with a patience truly admirable the fatigues of so long a route, + encumbered with the charge of an infant, who was then only nineteen months + old. We therefore paid him his wages, amounting to five hundred dollars + and thirty-three cents, including the price of a horse and a lodge + purchased of him, and soon afterward dropped down to the village of Big + White, attended on shore by all the Indian chiefs, who had come to take + leave of him. + </p> + <p> + “We found him surrounded by his friends, who sat in a circle smoking, + while the women were crying. He immediately sent his wife and son, with + their baggage, on board, accompanied by the interpreter and his wife, and + two children; and then, after distributing among his friends some powder + and ball which we had given him, and smoking a pipe, he went with us to + the river side. The whole village crowded about us, and many of the people + wept aloud at the departure of their chief.” + </p> + <p> + Once more embarked, the party soon reached Fort Mandan, where they had + wintered in 1804. They found very little of their old stronghold left + except a few pickets and one of the houses. The rest had been destroyed by + an accidental fire. Eighteen miles below, they camped near an old Ricara + village, and next day, as they were about to resume their voyage, a + brother of Big White, whose camp was farther inland, came running down to + the beach to bid Big White farewell. The parting of the two brothers was + very affectionate, and the elder gave the younger a pair of leggings as a + farewell present. The Indian chief was satisfied with his treatment by the + whites, and interested himself to tell them traditions of localities which + they passed. August 20 they were below the mouth of Cannon-ball River, and + were in the country occupied and claimed by the Sioux. Here, if anywhere, + they must be prepared for attacks from hostile Indians. At this point, the + journal sets forth this interesting observation:— + </p> + <p> + “Since we passed in 1804, a very obvious change has taken place in the + current and appearance of the Missouri. In places where at that time there + were sandbars, the current of the river now passes, and the former channel + of the river is in turn a bank of sand. Sandbars then naked are now + covered with willows several feet high; the entrance of some of the creeks + and rivers has changed in consequence of the quantity of mud thrown into + them; and in some of the bottoms are layers of mud eight inches in depth.” + </p> + <p> + The streams that flow into the Missouri and Mississippi from the westward + are notoriously fickle and changeable. Within a very few years, some of + them have changed their course so that farms are divided into two parts, + or are nearly wiped out by the wandering streams. In at least one + instance, artful men have tried to steal part of a State by changing the + boundary line along the bed of the river, making the stream flow many + miles across a tract around which it formerly meandered. On this boundary + line between the Sioux and their upper neighbors, the party met a band of + Cheyennes and another of Ricaras, or Arikaras. They held a palaver with + these Indians and reproached the Ricara chief, who was called Gray-eyes, + with having engaged in hostilities with the Sioux, notwithstanding the + promises made when the white men were here before. To this Gray-eyes made + an animated reply:— + </p> + <p> + “He declared that the Ricaras were willing to follow the counsels we had + given them, but a few of their bad young men would not live in peace, but + had joined the Sioux and thus embroiled them with the Mandans. These young + men had, however, been driven out of the villages, and as the Ricaras were + now separated from the Sioux, who were a bad people and the cause of all + their misfortunes, they now desired to be at peace with the Mandans, and + would receive them with kindness and friendship. Several of the chiefs, he + said, were desirous of visiting their Great Father; but as the chief who + went to the United States last summer had not returned, and they had some + fears for his safety, on account of the Sioux, they did not wish to leave + home until they heard of him. With regard to himself, he would continue + with his nation, to see that they followed our advice. . . . . . . . . . + </p> + <p> + “After smoking for some time, Captain Clark gave a small medal to the + Chayenne chief, and explained at the same time the meaning of it. He + seemed alarmed at this present, and sent for a robe and a quantity of + buffalo-meat, which he gave to Captain Clark, and requested him to take + back the medal; for he knew that all white people were ‘medicine,’ and was + afraid of the medal, or of anything else which the white people gave to + the Indians. Captain Clark then repeated his intention in giving the + medal, which was the medicine his great father had directed him to deliver + to all chiefs who listened to his word and followed his counsels; and that + as he (the chief) had done so, the medal was given as a proof that we + believed him sincere. He now appeared satisfied and received the medal, in + return for which he gave double the quantity of buffalo-meat he had + offered before. He seemed now quite reconciled to the whites, and + requested that some traders might be sent among the Chayennes, who lived, + he said, in a country full of beaver, but did not understand well how to + catch them, and were discouraged from it by having no sale for them when + caught. Captain Clark promised that they should be soon supplied with + goods and taught the best mode of catching beaver. + </p> + <p> + “Big White, the chief of the Mandans, now addressed them at some length, + explaining the pacific intentions of his nation; the Chayennes observed + that both the Ricaras and Mandans seemed to be in fault; but at the end of + the council the Mandan chief was treated with great civility, and the + greatest harmony prevailed among them. The great chief, however, informed + us that none of the Ricaras could be prevailed on to go with us till the + return of the other chief; and that the Chayennes were a wild people, + afraid to go. He invited Captain Clark to his house, and gave him two + carrots of tobacco, two beaver-skins, and a trencher of boiled corn and + beans. It is the custom of all the nations on the Missouri to offer to + every white man food and refreshment when he first enters their tents.” + </p> + <p> + Resuming their voyage, the party reached Tyler’s River, where they camped, + on the twenty-seventh of August. This stream is now known as Medicine + River, from Medicine Hill, a conspicuous landmark rising at a little + distance from the Missouri. The voyagers were now near the lower portion + of what is now known as South Dakota, and they camped in territory + embraced in the county of Presho. Here they were forced to send out their + hunters; their stock of meat was nearly exhausted. The hunters returned + empty-handed. + </p> + <p> + “After a hunt of three hours they reported that no game was to be found in + the bottoms, the grass having been laid flat by the immense number of + buffaloes which recently passed over it; and, that they saw only a few + buffalo bulls, which they did not kill, as they were quite unfit for use. + Near this place we observed, however, the first signs of the wild turkey; + not long afterward we landed in the Big Bend, and killed a fine fat elk, + on which we feasted. Toward night we heard the bellowing of buffalo bulls + on the lower island of the Big Bend. We pursued this agreeable sound, and + after killing some of the cows, camped on the island, forty-five miles + from the camp of last night.” . . . . . . . . . + </p> + <p> + “Setting out at ten o’clock the next morning, at a short distance they + passed the mouth of White River, the water of which was nearly of the + color of milk. As they were much occupied with hunting, they made but + twenty miles. The buffalo,” says the journal, “were now so numerous, that + from an eminence we discovered more than we had ever seen before at one + time; and though it was impossible accurately to calculate their number, + they darkened the whole plain, and could not have been, we were convinced, + less than twenty thousand. With regard to game in general, we have + observed that wild animals are usually found in the greatest numbers in + the country lying between two nations at war.” + </p> + <p> + They were now well into the Sioux territory, and on the thirtieth of + August they had an encounter with a party of Indians. About twenty persons + were seen on the west side of the river, proceeding along a height + opposite the voyagers. Just as these were observed, another band, + numbering eighty or ninety, came out of the woods nearer the shore. As + they had a hostile appearance, the party in the canoes made preparations + to receive them; they were suspected to be Teton-Sioux, although they + might be Yanktons, Pawnees, or Omahas. The journal adds:— + </p> + <p> + “In order, however, to ascertain who they were, without risk to the party, + Captain Clark crossed, with three persons who could speak different Indian + languages, to a sand-bar near the opposite side, in hopes of conversing + with them. Eight young men soon met him on the sand-bar, but none of them + could understand either the Pawnee or Maha interpreter. They were then + addressed in the Sioux language, and answered that they were Tetons, of + the band headed by Black Buffaloe, Tahtackasabah. This was the same who + had attempted to stop us in 1804; and being now less anxious about + offending so mischievous a tribe, Captain Clark told them that they had + been deaf to our councils, had ill-treated us two years ago, and had + abused all the whites who had since visited them. He believed them, he + added, to be bad people, and they must therefore return to their + companions; for if they crossed over to our camp we would put them to + death. They asked for some corn, which Captain Clark refused; they then + requested permission to come and visit our camp, but he ordered them back + to their own people. He then returned, and all our arms were prepared, in + case of an attack; but when the Indians reached their comrades, and + informed their chiefs of our intention, they all set out on their way to + their own camp; though some of them halted on a rising ground and abused + us very copiously, threatening to kill us if we came across. We took no + notice of this for some time, till the return of three of our hunters, + whom we were afraid the Indians might have met. But as soon as they joined + us we embarked; and to see what the Indians would attempt, steered near + their side of the river. At this the party on the hill seemed agitated; + some set out for their camp, others walked about, and one man walked + toward the boats and invited us to land. As he came near, we recognized + him to be the same who had accompanied us for two days in 1804, and was + considered a friend of the whites. + </p> + <p> + “Unwilling, however, to have any intercourse with these people, we + declined his invitation, upon which he returned to the hill, and struck + the earth three times with his gun, a great oath among the Indians, who + consider swearing by the earth as one of the most solemn forms of + imprecation. At the distance of six miles we stopped on a bleak sand-bar, + where we thought ourselves secure from any attack during the night, and + also safe from the mosquitoes. We had made but twenty-two miles, but in + the course of the day had killed a mule-deer, an animal we were very + anxious to obtain. About eleven in the evening the wind shifted to the + northwest, and it began to rain, accompanied by thunder and lightning, + after which the wind changed to the southwest, and blew with such violence + that we were obliged to hold fast the canoes, for fear of their being + driven from the sand-bar: still, the cables of two of them broke, and two + others were blown quite across the river; nor was it till two o’clock that + the whole party were reassembled, waiting in the rain for daylight.” + </p> + <p> + The party now began to meet white men in small detachments coming up the + river. On the third of September, for example, they met the first men who + were able to give them news of home. This party was commanded by a Mr. + James Airs (or Ayres), from Mackinaw, by the way of Prairie du Chien and + St. Louis. He had two canoes loaded with merchandise which he was taking + up the river to trade with the Indians. Among the items of news gathered + from him, according to the private journal of one of the Lewis and Clark + party, was that General James Wilkinson was now Governor of Louisiana + Territory, and was stationed at St. Louis. This is the Wilkinson who + fought in the American Revolution, and was subsequently to this time + accused of accepting bribes from Spain and of complicity with Aaron Burr + in his treasonable schemes. Another item was to this effect: “Mr. Burr + & Genl. Hambleton fought a Duel, the latter was killed.” This brief + statement refers to the unhappy duel between Aaron Burr and Alexander + Hamilton, at Weehawken, New Jersey, July 11, 1804. This interesting entry + shows with what feelings the long-absent explorers met Mr. Airs:— + </p> + <p> + “After so long an interval, the sight of anyone who could give us + information of our country was peculiarly delightful, and much of the + night was spent in making inquiries into what had occurred during our + absence. We found Mr. Airs a very friendly and liberal gentleman; when we + proposed to him to purchase a small quantity of tobacco, to be paid for in + St. Louis, he very readily furnished every man of the party with as much + as he could use during the rest of the voyage, and insisted on our + accepting a barrel of flour. This last we found very agreeable, although + we have still a little flour which we had deposited at the mouth of + Maria’s River. We could give in return only about six bushels of corn, + which was all that we could spare.” + </p> + <p> + Three days later, the voyagers met a trading-boat belonging to Mr. + Augustus Chouteau, the founder of a famous trading-house in St. Louis. + From this party the captains procured a gallon of whiskey, and with this + they served out a dram to each of their men. “This,” says the journal, “is + the first spirituous liquor any of them have tasted since the Fourth of + July, 1805.” From this time forward, the returning explorers met trading + parties nearly every day; and this showed that trade was following the + flag far up into the hitherto unexplored regions of the American + continent. + </p> + <p> + The explorers, hungry for news from home, would have tarried and talked + longer with their new-found friends, but they were anxious to get down to + civilization once more. Their journal also says: “The Indians, + particularly the squaws and children, are weary of the long journey, and + we are desirous of seeing our country and friends.” This quotation from + the journal gives us our first intimation that any Indians accompanied Big + White to the United States. He appears to have had a small retinue of + followers men, women, and children—with him. + </p> + <p> + Below the mouth of the Platte, September 12, Lewis and Clark met + Gravelines, the interpreter who was sent to Washington from Fort Mandan, + in 1805, with despatches, natural history specimens, and a Ricara chief. + The chief had unfortunately died in Washington, and Gravelines was now on + his way to the Ricaras with a speech from President Jefferson and the + presents that had been given to the chief. He also had instructions to + teach the Ricaras in agriculture. + </p> + <p> + It is interesting to note how that the explorers, now tolerably well + acquainted with the Indian character since their long experience with the + red men, had adopted a very different bearing from that which they had + when coming up the river, in 1805. Here is an extract from their journal, + September 14:— + </p> + <p> + “We resumed our journey. This being a part of the river to which the + Kansas resort, in order to rob the boats of traders, we held ourselves in + readiness to fire upon any Indians who should offer us the slightest + indignity; as we no longer needed their friendship, and found that a tone + of firmness and decision is the best possible method of making proper + impressions on these freebooters. However, we did not encounter any of + them; but just below the old Kansas village met three trading-boats from + St. Louis, on their way to the Yanktons and Mahas.” + </p> + <p> + Thirty miles below the island of Little Osage village, the party met + Captain McClellan, formerly of the United States army. He informed Captain + Lewis that the party had been given up for lost, people generally + believing that they would never again be heard from; but, according to the + journal of one of the party, “The President of the U. States yet had hopes + of us.” The last news received in “the U. States” from the explorers was + that sent from Fort Mandan, by Gravelines, in 1805. + </p> + <p> + Scarcity of provisions once more disturbed the party, so that, on the + eighteenth of September, the journal sets forth the fact that game was + very scarce and nothing was seen by the hunters but a bear and three + turkeys, which they were unable to reach. The men, however, were perfectly + satisfied, although they were allowed only one biscuit per day. An + abundance of pawpaws growing along the banks sufficed as nutritious food. + The pawpaw is native to many of the Western States of the Republic. It is + a fruit three or four inches long, growing on a small tree, or bush. The + fruit is sweet and juicy and has several bean-shaped seeds embedded in the + pulp. The voyagers now began to see signs of civilization on the banks of + the river. Near the mouth of the Gasconade, above St. Louis, they beheld + cows grazing in the meadows. The journal says: “The whole party almost + involuntarily raised a shout of joy at seeing this image of civilization + and domestic life.” Men who have been wandering in pathless wildernesses, + remote from man, for more than two years, might well be moved by the + sights of a homelike farm and a settled life. Soon after this the party + reached the little French village of La Charette which they saluted with + four guns and three hearty cheers. Then, according to the journal, they + landed and were warmly received by the people, who had long since + abandoned all hope of ever seeing these far-voyaging adventurers return. + Here are the last entries in the journal that has been our guide so long + across the continent and back again to the haunts of men:— + </p> + <p> + “Sunday, September 21st, we proceeded; and as several settlements have + been made during our absence, we were refreshed with the sight of men and + cattle along the banks. We also passed twelve canoes of Kickapoo Indians, + going on a hunting-excursion. At length, after coming forty-eight miles, + we saluted, with heartfelt satisfaction, the village of St. Charles, and + on landing were treated with the greatest hospitality and kindness by all + the inhabitants of that place. Their civility detained us till ten o’clock + the next morning. + </p> + <p> + “September 22d, when the rain having ceased, we set out for Coldwater + Creek, about three miles from the mouth of the Missouri, where we found a + cantonment of troops of the United States, with whom we passed the day; + and then, + </p> + <p> + “September 23d, descended to the Mississippi, and round to St. Louis, + where we arrived at twelve o’clock; and having fired a salute, went on + shore and received the heartiest and most hospitable welcome from the + whole village.” + </p> + <p> + The two captains were very busily employed, as soon as they arrived in St. + Louis, with writing letters to their friends and to the officers of the + government who were concerned to know of their safe return to + civilization. Captain Lewis’ letter to the President of the United States, + announcing his arrival, was dated Sept. 23, 1806. President Jefferson’s + reply was dated October 20 of that year. In his letter the President + expressed his “unspeakable joy” at the safe return of the expedition. He + said that the unknown scenes in which they had been engaged and the length + of time during which no tidings had been received from them “had begun to + be felt awfully.” It may seem strange to modern readers familiar with the + means for rapid travel and communication that no news from the explorers, + later than that which they sent from the Mandan country, was received in + the United States until their return, two years and four months later. But + mail facilities were very scanty in those far-off days, even in the + settled portions of the Mississippi Valley, and few traders had then + penetrated to those portions of the Lower Missouri that had just been + travelled by Lewis and Clark. As we have seen, white men were regarded + with awe and curiosity by the natives of the regions which the explorers + traversed in their long absence. The first post-office in what is now the + great city of St. Louis was not established until 1808; mails between the + Atlantic seaboard and that “village” required six weeks to pass either + way. + </p> + <p> + The two captains went to Washington early in the year following their + arrival in St. Louis. There is extant a letter from Captain Lewis, dated + at Washington, Feb. 11, 1807. Congress was then in session, and, agreeably + to the promises that had been held out to the explorers, the Secretary of + War (General Henry Dearborn), secured from that body the passage of an act + granting to each member of the expedition a considerable tract of land + from the public domain. To each private and non-commissioned officer was + given three hundred acres; to Captain Clark, one thousand acres, and to + Captain Lewis fifteen hundred acres. In addition to this, the two officers + were given double pay for their services during the time of their absence. + Captain Lewis magnanimously objected to receiving more land for his + services than that given to Captain Clark. + </p> + <p> + Captain Lewis resigned from the army, March 2, 1807, having been nominated + to be Governor of Louisiana Territory a few days before. His commission as + Governor was dated March 3 of that year. He was thus made the Governor of + all the territory of the United States west of the Mississippi River. + About the same time, Captain Clark was appointed a general of the + territorial militia and Indian agent for that department. + </p> + <p> + Originally, the territory acquired from France was divided into the + District of New Orleans and the District of Louisiana, the first-named + being the lower portion of the territory and bounded on the north by a + line which now represents the northern boundary of the State of Louisiana; + and all above that line was known as the District of Louisiana. In 1812, + the upper part, or Louisiana, was named the Territory of Missouri, and + Captain Clark (otherwise General), was appointed Governor of the + Territory, July 1, 1813, his old friend and comrade having died a few + years earlier. + </p> + <p> + The end of Captain (otherwise Governor) Lewis was tragical and was + shadowed by a cloud. Official business calling him to Washington, he left + St. Louis early in September, 1809, and prosecuted his journey eastward + through Tennessee, by the way of Chickasaw Bluffs, now Memphis, of that + State. There is a mystery around his last days. On the eleventh of + October, he stopped at a wayside log-inn, and that night he died a violent + death, whether by his own hand or by that of a murderer, no living man + knows. There were many contradictory stories about the sad affair, some + persons holding to the one theory and some to the other. He was buried + where he died, in the centre of what is now Lewis County, Tennessee. In + 1848, the State of Tennessee erected over the last resting-place of Lewis + a handsome monument, the inscriptions on which duly set forth his many + virtues and his distinguished services to his country. + </p> + <p> + The story of the expedition of Lewis and Clark is the foundation of the + history of the great Northwest and the Missouri Valley. These men and + their devoted band of followers were the first to break into the world-old + solitudes of the heart of the continent and to explore the mountain + fastnesses in which the mighty Columbia has its birth. Following in their + footsteps, the hardy American emigrant, trader, adventurer, and + home-seeker penetrated the wilderness, and, building better than they + knew, laid the foundations of populous and thriving States. Peaceful farms + and noble cities, towns and villages, thrilling with the hum of modern + industry and activity, are spread over the vast spaces through which the + explorers threaded their toilsome trail, amid incredible privations and + hardships, showing the way westward across the boundless continent which + is ours. Let the names of those two men long be held in grateful honor by + the American people! + </p> + <p> + INDEX + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + A + + Alkali, natural deposits of, 60. + Antelope, first seen, 29, how hunted, 69. + Assiniboins, at war with Sioux, 49. + + B + + Beaver, hunted as game, 70, + Beaver Head, 143. + Big Dry River, 75. + Bismarck, N. D., 44. + Bitter Root Mountains, 147. + Black Cat, a Mandan chief, 342. + Boone, Daniel, 14. + Buffalo, first signs of, 16; hunt, 51; curious adventure with, 87; + extermination of, 338. + + C + + Caches, how built, 98. + Calumet bird, 43. + Camas, edible root, 179. + Cameahwait, a Shoshonee chief, 157. + Camp, first winter, 48; departure from, 57. + Candle-fish, 252. + Cannonball River, N. D-, 43. + Captain Cook, 3. + Captain Gray, 3. + Captain Vancouver, 3. + Carroll, Mont., 83. + Carver, Jonathan, 5. + Cascades of the Columbia, 262. + Cathedral Rocks, 90-92. + Cheyenne River, 40. + Chinook Indians, 208, some account of, 246. + Chouteau, a St. Louis trader, 355. + Christmas (1804), 52. (1805), 240- + Clark, Captain, biographical notice Of, 7. + general of militia, 359. + Clark’s Fort, 48. + river, 180-63. + party overtaken by disaster, 142. + Clatsop Indians, some account Of, 248. + Clearwater River, 183. + Cloudburst, 116. + Columbia River, discovery Of, 4. + portage to, 108; + at the headwaters of, 148. + at the entrance to, 194. + great falls of, 202; + the great chute Of, 21. + et seq. Comowol, a Columbia River Indian + chief, 239. + Condor, a California variety, 256. + Council Bluffs, 19. + Cowas, an edible root, 278. + Coyote, described, 72. + Crow Indians, 24. + + D + + Dalles, the, 266. + Dearborn River, 130. + Divide, on the great, 148; + across the, 179. + Dog’s flesh as an article of food, 24. + 185- + + E + + Echeloot Indians, 210. + Elk, hunting of, 251. + Ermine, first seen, 49. + Expedition, Lewis and Clark’s, 7. + Organization of, 8. + route of, 10; + sets sail, 14. + “Experiment,” failure of the boat, 124 + + F + + Falls of the Missouri, 101. + description of, 11. et seq. + Flathead Indians, 211. + Floyd’s River, why so named, 23. + Forks of the Missouri, 135. + Fort Clark, 48. + Clatsop, 255. + + G + + Gallatin’s fork of the Missouri, 135. + Gates of the Rocky Mountains, 132. + Goose-nests in trees, 61. + gray, Capt., discoverer of the Columbia, 3. + Grizzly bear, first seen, 40. + thrilling encounters with, 72, 76, 77, 105, 115, 315- + + H + + Horse-flesh eaten by the expedition, 77. + Hungry Creek, 178, 303- + + 1 + + Independence Day, celebration of (1805), 123. + (180(i), 327. + Iowa Indians, 16. + Islands, White Bear, 110. + + J + + Jefferson, President Thomas, 2-4. + his letters to Capt. Lewis, 12. + presents to, + from Lewis and Clark, 55. + welcome to Capt. Lewis on return, 358. + name given + to fork of the Missouri, 135. + John Day’s River, 203- + + K + + Klikitat River, 214. + Kooskooskee River, 180. + + L + + Lewis, Capt., biographical notice of, 6, 7. + accidentally wounded, 341; + announces his return, 358. + Governor of Louisiana Territory, 359; + his tragical death, 360. + Lewis and Clark, pursue separate routes across + the Divide, 140. + also on their return, 310. + Lewis’s River, 165. + + Lewiston, Idaho, 185. + Ledyard, John, 4. + Lemhi River, 152. + Little Devils, hill Of, 23. + Louisiana Purchase, the, 1-2; + divided into two territories, 360. + + M + + Madison, fork of the Missouri, 135. + Mandan Indians, 4. et seq.; + religion of, 50. + Maria’s River, 97. + Medicine River, 106. + Meriwether’s Bay, 234. + Milk River, 74. + Minnetarees, at war + with Sioux, 49. + expedition has an encounter with, 31. et seq, + Missouri River, Little, 60. + Missouri, the Upper, So; great falls of, 101; + forks of, 135. + at the headwaters Of, 147. + Mosquitoes, the great + plague of, 126, 339. + Mount St. Helen’s, 198. + Hood, 203. + Mouse River, source of, 60. + Multnomah (Willamette) River, 221. + 259. + Musselshell River, 81. + + N + + Nez Perce Indians (Chopunnish), 180. + some account of the, 186. + Noises, mysterious, 122. + + 0 + + Osage Indians, traditions of, 15. + Ottoes, council with, 20. + + P + + Pacific Ocean, first sight of the, 225. + Pawpaw fruit, 357. + Pemmican, 33. + Platte River as a boundary, 17. + Porcupine River, 70. + Prairie dog, 29. + + Q Quamash flats, 302. + Quicksand River, 220. + + R + + Rat, peculiar variety of, 121. + Rickarees, in the country + of the, 40. + River, Little Missouri, to; Mouse, source of, 60; + Yellowstone, 65. + Porcupine, 70. + Saskatchewan, 74. + Milk, 74; + Big Dry, 75. + Upper Missouri, 80. + Musselshell, 81. + Slaughter, 88; + Maria’s, 97. + Madison, 106. + Columbia, portage to, 108. + Smith’s, 129; + Dearborn, 130. + Salmon, 152. + Lemhi, 152. + Lewis’s, 165. + Kooskooskee, 180; + Clark’s, 180. + Clearwater, 183. + Snake, 188. + Yakima, 196. + John Day’S, 203; + Klikitat, 21. + Quicksand, 220. + Multnomah. 220. + Rocky Mountains, + first sight of, 85. + sheep, 85. + gates of the, 132. + farewell to + the mountains, 335. + Rocks, Cathedral, 90-92. + + S + + St. Louis, village of, 11. + first post-office in, 359. + Sacajawea, joins the expedition, 4. + stream named for her, 82; + story of her capture, 138. + finds her own people, 160. + a tribute to + her memory, 332. + Sage-brush, first seen, 62. + Saline County, Mo., 16. + Salmon River, 152. + City, Idaho, 165. + abundance of fish, 194. + Salt, made from sea-water, 23. + et seq. Saskatchewan River, 74. + Shannon, the lost hunter, 143. + Shoshonees, first meeting with, 14. + among the, 15. + et seq.; some account of the, 17. + et seq. + Sioux Indians, 27. + Slaughter River, 88. + Smith’s River, 128. + + Snake River, 188. + junction of the with Columbia, 190. + Sokulk Indians, some account of, 19. + et seq. Spirit Mound, 24. + Spring River, S. D-; 42. + Stone-Idol Creek, legend Of, 42. + Sweat baths, Indian, 187, 298. + + T + + Tetons, in the country of, 33-38. + Three-thousand-mile Island, 331. + Tillamook Indians, 244. + Traveller’s-rest Creek, 309. + Twisted-hair, an Indian chief, adventures with, 28. et seq. + + U Umatilla, 271- + + V + + Vancouver, Capt-y 3- + + W + + Wahkiacum Indians, 224. + Walla Walla, 271. + Wappatoo, edible root, 23. + description of, 260. + Weocksockwillacums, 265. + Wharfington, commands return party to the U. S., 58. + White Bear Islands, 110. + camp at, 114. + Whisky, Indian rejection + of, 42. + Winter camp, first, 48. + departure from, 57- + + Y + + Yakima River, 196. + Yankton, S. D., 24. + Yellowstone River, 65; + Capt. Clark’s descent of the, 327. + York, a negro servant, 41. 159. +</pre> + <div style="height: 6em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <div>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 1236 ***</div> +</body> +</html> diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..c0d1d09 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #1236 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/1236) diff --git a/old/1236-0.txt b/old/1236-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..5777942 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/1236-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,10626 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of First Across the Continent, by Noah Brooks + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: First Across the Continent + +Author: Noah Brooks + +Release Date: February 11, 2006 [EBook #1236] +Last Updated: November 1, 2016 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: UTF-8 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FIRST ACROSS THE CONTINENT *** + + + + +Produced by Charles Keller and David Widger + + + + + +FIRST ACROSS THE CONTINENT + +The Story of The Exploring Expedition of Lewis and Clark in 1804-5-6 + +By Noah Brooks + + + + +Chapter I -- A Great Transaction in Land + +The people of the young Republic of the United States were greatly +astonished, in the summer of 1803, to learn that Napoleon Bonaparte, +then First Consul of France, had sold to us the vast tract of land known +as the country of Louisiana. The details of this purchase were arranged +in Paris (on the part of the United States) by Robert R. Livingston and +James Monroe. The French government was represented by Barbe-Marbois, +Minister of the Public Treasury. + +The price to be paid for this vast domain was fifteen million dollars. +The area of the country ceded was reckoned to be more than one million +square miles, greater than the total area of the United States, as the +Republic then existed. Roughly described, the territory comprised all +that part of the continent west of the Mississippi River, bounded on the +north by the British possessions and on the west and south by dominions +of Spain. This included the region in which now lie the States of +Louisiana, Arkansas, Missouri, Kansas, parts of Colorado, Minnesota, the +States of Iowa, Nebraska, South Dakota, North Dakota, Wyoming, a part +of Idaho, all of Montana and Territory of Oklahoma. At that time, the +entire population of the region, exclusive of the Indian tribes that +roamed over its trackless spaces, was barely ninety thousand persons, +of whom forty thousand were negro slaves. The civilized inhabitants +were principally French, or descendants of French, with a few Spanish, +Germans, English, and Americans. + +The purchase of this tremendous slice of territory could not be complete +without an approval of the bargain by the United States Senate. Great +opposition to this was immediately excited by people in various parts +of the Union, especially in New England, where there was a very bitter +feeling against the prime mover in this business,--Thomas Jefferson, +then President of the United States. The scheme was ridiculed by persons +who insisted that the region was not only wild and unexplored, but +uninhabitable and worthless. They derided “The Jefferson Purchase,” as +they called it, as a useless piece of extravagance and folly; and, in +addition to its being a foolish bargain, it was urged that President +Jefferson had no right, under the constitution of the United States, to +add any territory to the area of the Republic. + +Nevertheless, a majority of the people were in favor of the purchase, +and the bargain was duly approved by the United States Senate; that +body, July 31, 1803, just three months after the execution of the treaty +of cession, formally ratified the important agreement between the two +governments. The dominion of the United States was now extended across +the entire continent of North America, reaching from the Atlantic to the +Pacific. The Territory of Oregon was already ours. + +This momentous transfer took place one hundred years ago, when almost +nothing was known of the region so summarily handed from the government +of France to the government of the American Republic. Few white men had +ever traversed those trackless plains, or scaled the frowning ranges of +mountains that barred the way across the continent. There were living in +the fastnesses of the mysterious interior of the Louisiana Purchase many +tribes of Indians who had never looked in the face of the white man. + +Nor was the Pacific shore of the country any better known to civilized +man than was the region lying between that coast and the Big Muddy, or +Missouri River. Spanish voyagers, in 1602, had sailed as far north as +the harbors of San Diego and Monterey, in what is now California; +and other explorers, of the same nationality, in 1775, extended their +discoveries as far north as the fifty-eighth degree of latitude. Famous +Captain Cook, the great navigator of the Pacific seas, in 1778, reached +and entered Nootka Sound, and, leaving numerous harbors and bays +unexplored, he pressed on and visited the shores of Alaska, then called +Unalaska, and traced the coast as far north as Icy Cape. Cold weather +drove him westward across the Pacific, and he spent the next winter at +Owyhee, where, in February of the following year, he was killed by the +natives. + +All these explorers were looking for chances for fur-trading, which was +at that time the chief industry of the Pacific coast. Curiously enough, +they all passed by the mouth of the Columbia without observing that +there was the entrance to one of the finest rivers on the American +continent. + +Indeed, Captain Vancouver, a British explorer, who has left his name +on the most important island of the North Pacific coast, baffled by the +deceptive appearances of the two capes that guard the way to a noble +stream (Cape Disappointment and Cape Deception), passed them without a +thought. But Captain Gray, sailing the good ship “Columbia,” of Boston, +who coasted those shores for more than two years, fully convinced that a +strong current which he observed off those capes came from a river, made +a determined effort; and on the 11th of May, 1792, he discovered and +entered the great river that now bears the name of his ship. At last +the key that was to open the mountain fastnesses of the heart of the +continent had been found. The names of the capes christened by Vancouver +and re-christened by Captain Gray have disappeared from our maps, but +in the words of one of the numerous editors(1) of the narrative of the +exploring expedition of Lewis and Clark: “The name of the good ship +‘Columbia,’ it is not hard to believe, will flow with the waters of the +bold river as long as grass grows or water runs in the valleys of the +Rocky Mountains.” + + + (1) Dr. Archibald McVickar. + + +It appears that the attention of President Jefferson had been early +attracted to the vast, unexplored domain which his wise foresight was +finally to add to the territory of the United States. While he was +living in Paris, as the representative of the United States, in 1785-89, +he made the acquaintance of John Ledyard, of Connecticut, the well-known +explorer, who had then in mind a scheme for the establishment of a +fur-trading post on the western coast of America. Mr. Jefferson proposed +to Ledyard that the most feasible route to the coveted fur-bearing lands +would be through the Russian possessions and downward somewhere near to +the latitude of the then unknown sources of the Missouri River, entering +the United States by that route. This scheme fell through on account of +the obstacles thrown in Ledyard’s way by the Russian Government. A few +years later, in 1792, Jefferson, whose mind was apparently fixed on +carrying out his project, proposed to the American Philosophical Society +of Philadelphia that a subscription should be opened for the purpose of +raising money “to engage some competent person to explore that region in +the opposite direction (from the Pacific coast),--that is, by ascending +the Missouri, crossing the Stony (Rocky) Mountains, and descending the +nearest river to the Pacific.” This was the hint from which originated +the famous expedition of Lewis and Clark. + +But the story-teller should not forget to mention that hardy and +adventurous explorer, Jonathan Carver. This man, the son of a British +officer, set out from Boston, in 1766, to explore the wilderness north +of Albany and lying along the southern shore of the Great Lakes. He was +absent two years and seven months, and in that time he collected a vast +amount of useful and strange information, besides learning the language +of the Indians among whom he lived. He conceived the bold plan of +travelling up a branch of the Missouri (or “Messorie”), till, having +discovered the source of the traditional “Oregon, or River of the West,” + on the western side of the lands that divide the continent, “he would +have sailed down that river to the place where it is said to empty +itself, near the Straits of Anian.” + +By the Straits of Anian, we are to suppose, were meant some part of +Behring’s Straits, separating Asia from the American continent. Carver’s +fertile imagination, stimulated by what he knew of the remote Northwest, +pictured that wild region where, according to a modern poet, “rolls the +Oregon and hears no sound save his own dashing.” But Carver died without +the sight; in his later years, he said of those who should follow his +lead: “While their spirits are elated by their success, perhaps they may +bestow some commendations and blessings on the person who first pointed +out to them the way.” + + + + +Chapter II -- Beginning a Long Journey + +In 1803, availing himself of a plausible pretext to send out an +exploring expedition, President Jefferson asked Congress to appropriate +a small sum of money ($2,500) for the execution of his purpose. At that +time the cession of the Louisiana Territory had not been completed; but +matters were in train to that end, and before the expedition was fairly +started on its long journey across the continent, the Territory was +formally ceded to the United States. + +Meriwether Lewis, a captain in the army, was selected by Jefferson to +lead the expedition. Captain Lewis was a native of Virginia, and at that +time was only twenty-nine years old. He had been Jefferson’s private +secretary for two years and was, of course, familiar with the +President’s plans and expectations as these regarded the wonder-land +which Lewis was to enter. It is pleasant to quote here Mr. Jefferson’s +words concerning Captain Lewis. In a memoir of that distinguished young +officer, written after his death, Jefferson said: “Of courage undaunted; +possessing a firmness and perseverance of purpose which nothing but +impossibilities could divert from its direction; careful as a father of +those committed to his charge, yet steady in the maintenance of +order and discipline; intimate with the Indian character, customs +and principles; habituated to the hunting life; guarded, by exact +observation of the vegetables and animals of his own country, against +losing time in the description of objects already possessed; honest, +disinterested, liberal, of sound understanding, and a fidelity to truth +so scrupulous that whatever he should report would be as certain as if +seen by ourselves--with all these qualifications, as if selected and +implanted by nature in one body for this express purpose, I could have +no hesitation in confiding the enterprise to him.” + +Before we have finished the story of Meriwether Lewis and his +companions, we shall see that this high praise of the youthful commander +was well deserved. + +For a coadjutor and comrade Captain Lewis chose William Clark,(1) also +a native of Virginia, and then about thirty-three years old. Clark, like +Lewis, held a commission in the military service of the United States, +and his appointment as one of the leaders of the expedition with which +his name and that of Lewis will ever be associated, made the two men +equal in rank. Exactly how there could be two captains commanding the +same expedition, both of the same military and actual rank, without jar +or quarrel, we cannot understand; but it is certain that the two young +men got on together harmoniously, and no hint or suspicion of any +serious disagreement between the two captains during their long and +arduous service has come down to us from those distant days. + + + (1) It is a little singular that Captain Clark’s name has + been so persistently misspelled by historians and + biographers. Even in most of the published versions of the + story of the Lewis and Clark expedition, the name of one of + the captains is spelled Clarke. Clark’s own signature, of + which many are in existence, is without the final and + superfluous vowel; and the family name, for generations + past, does not show it. + + +As finally organized, the expedition was made up of the two captains +(Lewis and Clark) and twenty-six men. These were nine young men from +Kentucky, who were used to life on the frontier among Indians; fourteen +soldiers of the United States Army, selected from many who eagerly +volunteered their services; two French voyageurs, or watermen, one of +whom was an interpreter of Indian language, and the other a hunter; and +one black man, a servant of Captain Clark. All these, except the negro +servant, were regularly enlisted as privates in the military service of +the United States during the expedition; and three of them were by the +captains appointed sergeants. In addition to this force, nine voyageurs +and a corporal and six private soldiers were detailed to act as guides +and assistants until the explorers should reach the country of the +Mandan Indians, a region lying around the spot where is now situated +the flourishing city of Bismarck, the capital of North Dakota. It was +expected that if hostile Indians should attack the explorers anywhere +within the limits of the little-known parts through which they were +to make their way, such attacks were more likely to be made below the +Mandan country than elsewhere. + +The duties of the explorers were numerous and important. They were to +explore as thoroughly as possible the country through which they were +to pass; making such observations of latitude and longitude as would be +needed when maps of the region should be prepared by the War Department; +observing the trade, commerce, tribal relations, manners and customs, +language, traditions, and monuments, habits and industrial pursuits, +diseases and laws of the Indian nations with whom they might come in +contact; note the floral, mineral, and animal characteristics of the +country, and, above all, to report whatever might be of interest to +citizens who might thereafter be desirous of opening trade relations +with those wild tribes of which almost nothing was then distinctly +known. + +The list of articles with which the explorers were provided, to aid them +in establishing peaceful relations with the Indians, might amuse traders +of the present day. But in those primitive times, and among peoples +entirely ignorant of the white man’s riches and resources, coats richly +laced with gilt braid, red trousers, medals, flags, knives, colored +handkerchiefs, paints, small looking-glasses, beads and tomahawks were +believed to be so attractive to the simple-minded red man that he would +gladly do much and give much of his own to win such prizes. Of these +fine things there were fourteen large bales and one box. The stores of +the expedition were clothing, working tools, fire-arms, food supplies, +powder, ball, lead for bullets, and flints for the guns then in use, the +old-fashioned flint-lock rifle and musket being still in vogue in our +country; for all of this was at the beginning of the present century. + +As the party was to begin their long journey by ascending the Missouri +River, their means of travel were provided in three boats. The largest, +a keel-boat, fifty-five feet long and drawing three feet of water, +carried a big square sail and twenty-two seats for oarsmen. On board +this craft was a small swivel gun. The other two boats were of that +variety of open craft known as pirogue, a craft shaped like a flat-iron, +square-sterned, flat-bottomed, roomy, of light draft, and usually +provided with four oars and a square sail which could be used when the +wind was aft, and which also served as a tent, or night shelter, on +shore. Two horses, for hunting or other occasional service, were led +along the banks of the river. + +As we have seen, President Jefferson, whose master mind organized and +devised this expedition, had dwelt longingly on the prospect of crossing +the continent from the headwaters of the Missouri to the headwaters of +the then newly-discovered Columbia. The route thus explored was more +difficult than that which was later travelled by the first emigrants +across the continent to California. That route lies up the Platte River, +through what is known as the South Pass of the Rocky Mountains, by Great +Salt Lake and down the valley of the Humboldt into California, crossing +the Sierra Nevada at any one of several points leading into the valley +of the Sacramento. The route, which was opened by the gold-seekers, was +followed by the first railroads built across the continent. The route +that lay so firmly in Jefferson’s mind, and which was followed up with +incredible hardships by the Lewis and Clark expedition, has since been +traversed by two railroads, built after the first transcontinental +rails were laid. If Jefferson had desired to find the shortest and most +feasible route across the continent, he would have pointed to the South +Pass and Utah basin trails. But these would have led the explorers into +California, then and long afterwards a Spanish possession. The entire +line finally traced over the Great Divide lay within the territory of +the United States. + +But it must be remembered that while the expedition was being organized, +the vast Territory of Louisiana was as yet a French possession. Before +the party were brought together and their supplies collected, +the territory passed under the jurisdiction of the United States. +Nevertheless, that jurisdiction was not immediately acknowledged by +the officials who, up to that time, had been the representatives of the +French and Spanish governments. Part of the territory was transferred +from Spain to France and then from France to the United States. It was +intended that the exploring party should pass the winter of 1803-4 in +St. Louis, then a mere village which had been commonly known as Pain +Court. But the Spanish governor of the province had not been officially +told that the country had been transferred to the United States, and, +after the Spanish manner, he forbade the passage of the Americans +through his jurisdiction. In those days communication between frontier +posts and points lying far to the eastward of the Mississippi was very +difficult; it required six weeks to carry the mails between New York, +Philadelphia, and Washington to St. Louis; and this was the reason why +a treaty, ratified in July, was not officially heard of in St. Louis +as late as December of that year. The explorers, shut out of Spanish +territory, recrossed the Mississippi and wintered at the mouth of Wood +River, just above St. Louis, on the eastern side of the great river, in +United States territory. As a matter of record, it may be said here that +the actual transfer of the lower part of the territory--commonly known +as Orleans--took place at New Orleans, December 20, 1803, and the +transfer of the upper part was effected at St. Louis, March 10, 1804, +before the Lewis and Clark expedition had started on its long journey to +the northwestward. + +All over the small area of the United States then existed a deep +interest in the proposed explorations of the course and sources of the +Missouri River. The explorers were about to plunge into vast solitudes +of which white people knew less than we know now about the North Polar +country. Wild and extravagant stories of what was to be seen in those +trackless regions were circulated in the States. For example, it was +said that Lewis and Clark expected to find the mammoth of prehistoric +times still living and wandering in the Upper Missouri region; and it +was commonly reported that somewhere, a thousand miles or so up +the river, was a solid mountain of rock salt, eighty miles long and +forty-five miles wide, destitute of vegetation and glittering in the +sun! These, and other tales like these, were said to be believed and +doted upon by the great Jefferson himself. The Federalists, or “Feds,” + as they were called, who hated Jefferson, pretended to believe that he +had invented some of these foolish yarns, hoping thereby to make his +Louisiana purchase more popular in the Republic. + +In his last letter to Captain Lewis, which was to reach the explorers +before they started, Jefferson said: “The acquisition of the country +through which you are to pass has inspired the country generally with a +great deal of interest in your enterprise. The inquiries are perpetual +as to your progress. The Feds alone still treat it as a philosophism, +and would rejoice at its failure. Their bitterness increases with the +diminution of their numbers and despair of a resurrection. I hope you +will take care of yourself, and be a living witness of their malice and +folly.” Indeed, after the explorers were lost sight of in the wilderness +which they were to traverse, many people in the States declaimed +bitterly against the folly that had sent these unfortunate men to perish +miserably in the fathomless depths of the continent. They no longer +treated it “as a philosophism,” or wild prank, but as a wicked scheme to +risk life and property in a search for the mysteries of the unknown and +unknowable. + +As a striking illustration of this uncertainty of the outcome of the +expedition, which exercised even the mind of Jefferson, it may be said +that in his instructions to Captain Lewis he said: “Our Consuls, Thomas +Hewes, at Batavia in Java, William Buchanan in the isles of France and +Bourbon, and John Elmslie at the Cape of Good Hope, will be able to +supply your necessities by drafts on us.” All this seems strange enough +to the young reader of the present day; but this was said and done one +hundred years ago. + + + + +Chapter III -- From the Lower to the Upper River + +The party finally set sail up the Missouri River on Monday, May 21, +1804, but made only a few miles, owing to head winds. Four days +later they camped near the last white settlement on the Missouri,--La +Charrette, a little village of seven poor houses. Here lived Daniel +Boone, the famous Kentucky backwoodsman, then nearly seventy years old, +but still vigorous, erect, and strong of limb. Here and above this place +the explorers began to meet with unfamiliar Indian tribes and names. For +example, they met two canoes loaded with furs “from the Mahar nation.” + The writer of the Lewis and Clark journal, upon whose notes we rely for +our story, made many slips of this sort. By “Mahars” we must understand +that the Omahas were meant. We shall come across other such instances +in which the strangers mistook the pronunciation of Indian names. For +example, Kansas was by them misspelled as “Canseze” and “Canzan;” and +there appear some thirteen or fourteen different spellings of Sioux, of +which one of the most far-fetched is “Scouex.” + +The explorers were now in a country unknown to them and almost unknown +to any white man. On the thirty-first of May, a messenger came down the +Grand Osage River bringing a letter from a person who wrote that the +Indians, having been notified that the country had been ceded to the +Americans, burned the letter containing the tidings, refusing to believe +the report. The Osage Indians, through whose territory they were now +passing, were among the largest and finest-formed red men of the West. +Their name came from the river along which they warred and hunted, but +their proper title, as they called themselves, was “the Wabashas,” and +from them, in later years, we derive the familiar name of Wabash. A +curious tradition of this people, according to the journal of Lewis and +Clark, is that the founder of the nation was a snail, passing a quiet +existence along the banks of the Osage, till a high flood swept him down +to the Missouri, and left him exposed on the shore. The heat of the sun +at length ripened him into a man; but with the change of his nature +he had not forgotten his native seats on the Osage, towards which he +immediately bent his way. He was, however, soon overtaken by hunger and +fatigue, when happily, the Great Spirit appeared, and, giving him a bow +and arrow, showed him how to kill and cook deer, and cover himself +with the skin. He then proceeded to his original residence; but as he +approached the river he was met by a beaver, who inquired haughtily who +he was, and by what authority he came to disturb his possession. The +Osage answered that the river was his own, for he had once lived on its +borders. As they stood disputing, the daughter of the beaver came, and +having, by her entreaties, reconciled her father to this young stranger, +it was proposed that the Osage should marry the young beaver, and share +with her family the enjoyment of the river. The Osage readily consented, +and from this happy union there soon came the village and the nation of +the Wabasha, or Osages, who have ever since preserved a pious reverence +for their ancestors, abstaining from the chase of the beaver, because in +killing that animal they killed a brother of the Osage. Of late years, +however, since the trade with the whites has rendered beaver-skins more +valuable, the sanctity of these maternal relatives has been visibly +reduced, and the poor animals have lost all the privileges of kindred. + +Game was abundant all along the river as the explorers sailed up the +stream. Their hunters killed numbers of deer, and at the mouth of Big +Good Woman Creek, which empties into the Missouri near the present town +of Franklin, Howard County, three bears were brought into the camp. +Here, too, they began to find salt springs, or “salt licks,” to which +many wild animals resorted for salt, of which they were very fond. +Saline County, Missouri, perpetuates the name given to the region by +Lewis and Clark. Traces of buffalo were also found here, and occasional +wandering traders told them that the Indians had begun to hunt the +buffalo now that the grass had become abundant enough to attract this +big game from regions lying further south. + +By the tenth of June the party had entered the country of the Ayauway +nation. This was an easy way of spelling the word now familiar to us +as “Iowa.” But before that spelling was reached, it was Ayaway, Ayahwa, +Iawai, Iaway, and so on. The remnants of this once powerful tribe now +number scarcely two hundred persons. In Lewis and Clark’s time, they +were a large nation, with several hundred warriors, and were constantly +at war with their neighbors. Game here grew still more abundant, and in +addition to deer and bear the hunters brought in a raccoon. One of these +hunters brought into camp a wild tale of a snake which, he said, “made +a guttural noise like a turkey.” One of the French voyageurs confirmed +this story; but the croaking snake was never found and identified. + +On the twenty-fourth of June the explorers halted to prepare some of the +meat which their hunters brought in. Numerous herds of deer were feeding +on the abundant grass and young willows that grew along the river banks. +The meat, cut in small strips, or ribbons, was dried quickly in the hot +sun. This was called “jirked” meat. Later on the word was corrupted into +“jerked,” and “jerked beef” is not unknown at the present day. The verb +“jerk” is corrupted from the Chilian word, charqui, meaning sun-dried +meat; but it is not easy to explain how the Chilian word got into the +Northwest. + +As the season advanced, the party found many delicious wild fruits, such +as currants, plums, raspberries, wild apples, and vast quantities of +mulberries. Wild turkeys were also found in large numbers, and the party +had evidently entered a land of plenty. Wild geese were abundant, and +numerous tracks of elk were seen. But we may as well say here that the +so-called elk of the Northwest is not the elk of ancient Europe; a more +correct and distinctive name for this animal is wapiti, the name given +the animal by the Indians. The European elk more closely resembles the +American moose. Its antlers are flat, low, and palmated like our moose; +whereas the antlers of the American elk, so-called, are long, high, and +round-shaped with many sharp points or tines. The mouth of the great +Platte River was reached on the twenty-first of July. This famous stream +was then regarded as a sort of boundary line between the known and +unknown regions. As mariners crossing the equator require all their +comrades, who have not been “over the line” to submit to lathering +and shaving, so the Western voyageurs merrily compelled their mates to +submit to similar horse-play. The great river was also the mark above +which explorers entered upon what was called the Upper Missouri. + +The expedition was now advancing into a region inhabited by several +wandering tribes of Indians, chief of which were the Ottoes, Missouris, +and Pawnees. It was determined, therefore, to call a council of some of +the chiefs of these bands and make terms of peace with them. After +some delay, the messengers sent out to them brought in fourteen +representative Indians, to whom the white men made presents of roast +meat, pork, flour, and corn-meal, in return for which their visitors +brought them quantities of delicious watermelons. “Next day, August +3,” says the journal, “the Indians, with their six chiefs, were all +assembled under an awning formed with the mainsail, in presence of all +our party, paraded for the occasion. A speech was then made, announcing +to them the change in the government, our promises of protection, and +advice as to their future conduct. All the six chiefs replied to our +speech, each in his turn, according to rank. They expressed their joy at +the change in the government; their hopes that we would recommend them +to their Great Father (the president), that they might obtain trade and +necessaries: they wanted arms as well for hunting as for defence, and +asked our mediation between them and the Mahas, with whom they are now +at war. We promised to do so, and wished some of them to accompany us to +that nation, which they declined, for fear of being killed by them. We +then proceeded to distribute our presents. The grand chief of the nation +not being of the party, we sent him a flag, a medal, and some ornaments +for clothing. To the six chiefs who were present, we gave a medal of the +second grade to one Ottoe chief and one Missouri chief; a medal of the +third grade to two inferior chiefs of each nation; the customary mode +of recognizing a chief being to place a medal round his neck, which is +considered among his tribe as a proof of his consideration abroad. Each +of these medals was accompanied by a present of paint, garters, and +cloth ornaments of dress; and to this we added a canister of powder, a +bottle of whiskey, and a few presents to the whole, which appeared +to make them perfectly satisfied. The air-gun, too, was fired, and +astonished them greatly. The absent grand chief was an Ottoe, named +Weahrushhah, which, in English, degenerates into Little Thief. The two +principal chieftains present were Shongotongo, or Big Horse, and Wethea, +or Hospitality; also Shosguscan, or White Horse, an Ottoe; the first an +Ottoe, the second a Missouri. The incidents just related induced us to +give to this place the name of the Council Bluffs: the situation of it +is exceedingly favorable for a fort and trading factory, as the soil +is well calculated for bricks, and there is an abundance of wood in the +neighborhood, and the air being pure and healthy.” + +Of course the reader will recognize, in the name given to this place by +Lewis and Clark, the flourishing modern city of Council Bluffs, Iowa. +Nevertheless, as a matter of fact, the council took place on the +Nebraskan or western side of the river, and the meeting-place was at +some distance above the site of the present city of Council Bluffs. + +Above Council Bluffs the explorers found the banks of the river to be +high and bluffy, and on one of the highlands which they passed they saw +the burial-place of Blackbird, one of the great men of the Mahars, or +Omahas, who had died of small-pox. A mound, twelve feet in diameter and +six feet high, had been raised over the grave, and on a tall pole at +the summit the party fixed a flag of red, white, and blue. The place +was regarded as sacred by the Omahas, who kept the dead chieftain well +supplied with provisions. The small-pox had caused great mortality among +the Indians; and a few years before the white men’s visit, when the fell +disease had destroyed four hundred men, with a due proportion of women +and children, the survivors burned their village and fled. + +“They had been a military and powerful people; but when these warriors +saw their strength wasting before a malady which they could not resist, +their frenzy was extreme; they burned their village, and many of them +put to death their wives and children, to save them from so cruel an +affliction, and that all might go together to some better country.” + +In Omaha, or Mahar Creek, the explorers made their first experiment +in dragging the stream for fish. With a drag of willows, loaded with +stones, they succeeded in catching a great variety of fine fish, over +three hundred at one haul, and eight hundred at another. These were +pike, bass, salmon-trout, catfish, buffalo fish, perch, and a species of +shrimp, all of which proved an acceptable addition to their usual flesh +bill-of-fare. + +Desiring to call in some of the surrounding Indian tribes, they here +set fire to the dry prairie grass, that being the customary signal for a +meeting of different bands of roving peoples. In the afternoon of August +18, a party of Ottoes, headed by Little Thief and Big Horse, came in, +with six other chiefs and a French interpreter. The journal says:-- + +“We met them under a shade, and after they had finished a repast with +which we supplied them, we inquired into the origin of the war between +them and the Mahas, which they related with great frankness. It seems +that two of the Missouris went to the Mahas to steal horses, but were +detected and killed; the Ottoes and Missouris thought themselves bound +to avenge their companions, and the whole nations were at last obliged +to share in the dispute. They are also in fear of a war from the +Pawnees, whose village they entered this summer, while the inhabitants +were hunting, and stole their corn. This ingenuous confession did +not make us the less desirous of negotiating a peace for them; but no +Indians have as yet been attracted by our fire. The evening was closed +by a dance; and the next day, the chiefs and warriors being assembled +at ten o’clock, we explained the speech we had already sent from the +Council Bluffs, and renewed our advice. They all replied in turn, and +the presents were then distributed. We exchanged the small medal we had +formerly given to the Big Horse for one of the same size with that of +Little Thief: we also gave a small medal to a third chief, and a kind +of certificate or letter of acknowledgment to five of the warriors +expressive of our favor and their good intentions. One of them, +dissatisfied, returned us the certificate; but the chief, fearful of +our being offended, begged that it might be restored to him; this we +declined, and rebuked them severely for having in view mere traffic +instead of peace with their neighbors. This displeased them at first; +but they at length all petitioned that it should be given to the +warrior, who then came forward and made an apology to us; we then +delivered it to the chief to be given to the most worthy, and he +bestowed it on the same warrior, whose name was Great Blue Eyes. After a +more substantial present of small articles and tobacco, the council was +ended with a dram to the Indians. In the evening we exhibited different +objects of curiosity, and particularly the air-gun, which gave them +great surprise. Those people are almost naked, having no covering except +a sort of breech-cloth round the middle, with a loose blanket or buffalo +robe, painted, thrown over them. The names of these warriors, besides +those already mentioned, were Karkapaha, or Crow’s Head, and Nenasawa, +or Black Cat, Missouris; and Sananona, or Iron Eyes, Neswaunja, or +Big Ox, Stageaunja, or Big Blue Eyes, and Wasashaco, or Brave Man, all +Ottoes.” + + + + +Chapter IV -- Novel Experiences among the Indians + +About this time (the nineteenth and twentieth of August), the explorers +lost by death the only member of their party who did not survive the +journey. Floyd River, which flows into the Upper Missouri, in the +northwest corner of Iowa, still marks the last resting-place of Sergeant +Charles Floyd, who died there of bilious colic and was buried by his +comrades near the mouth of the stream. Near here was a quarry of red +pipestone, dear to the Indian fancy as a mine of material for their +pipes; traces of this deposit still remain. So fond of this red rock +were the Indians that when they went there to get the stuff, even +lifelong and vindictive enemies declared a truce while they gathered the +material, and savage hostile tribes suspended their wars for a time. + +On the north side of the Missouri, at a point in what is now known +as Clay County, South Dakota, Captains Lewis and Clark, with ten men, +turned aside to see a great natural curiosity, known to the Indians as +the Hill of Little Devils. The hill is a singular mound in the midst of +a flat prairie, three hundred yards long, sixty or seventy yards wide, +and about seventy feet high. The top is a smooth level plain. The +journal says:-- + +“The Indians have made it a great article of their superstition: it +is called the Mountain of Little People, or Little Spirits; and they +believe that it is the abode of little devils, in the human form, of +about eighteen inches high, and with remarkably large heads; they are +armed with sharp arrows, with which they are very skilful, and are +always on the watch to kill those who should have the hardihood to +approach their residence. The tradition is, that many have suffered from +these little evil spirits, and, among others, three Maha Indians fell +a sacrifice to them a few years since. This has inspired all the +neighboring nations, Sioux, Mahas, and Ottoes, with such terror, that no +consideration could tempt them to visit the hill. We saw none of these +wicked little spirits, nor any place for them, except some small holes +scattered over the top; we were happy enough to escape their vengeance, +though we remained some time on the mound to enjoy the delightful +prospect of the plain, which spreads itself out till the eye rests upon +the northwest hills at a great distance, and those of the northeast, +still farther off, enlivened by large herds of buffalo feeding at a +distance.” + +The present residents of the region, South Dakota, have preserved the +Indian tradition, and Spirit Mound may be seen on modern maps of that +country. + +Passing on their way up the Missouri, the explorers found several kinds +of delicious wild plums and vast quantities of grapes; and here, too, +they passed the mouth of the Yankton River, now known as the Dakota, +at the mouth of which is the modern city of Yankton, South Dakota. The +Yankton-Sioux Indians, numbering about one thousand people, inhabited +this part of the country, and near here the white men were met by a +large band of these Sioux who had come in at the invitation of Lewis +and Clark. The messengers from the white men reported that they had been +well received by the Indians, who, as a mark of respect, presented their +visitors with “a fat dog, already cooked, of which they partook heartily +and found it well-flavored.” From this time, according to the journal, +the explorers tasted occasionally of roast dog, and later on they +adopted this dish as a regular feature of their bill-of-fare. They do +tell us, however, that they had some difficulty in getting used to so +novel an article of food. + +The Sioux and the white men held a grand council under an oak-tree, +from the top of which was flying the American flag. The head chief was +presented with a gold-laced uniform of the United States artillery, a +cocked hat and red feather. The lesser chiefs were also presented +with suitable gifts of lesser value. Various festivities followed the +conference. Next day another powwow was held at which the head chief, +Weucha, or Shake Hand, said:-- + +“‘I see before me my great father’s two sons. You see me and the rest +of our chiefs and warriors. We are very poor; we have neither powder, +nor ball, nor knives; and our women and children at the village have no +clothes. I wish that, as my brothers have given me a flag and a medal, +they would give something to those poor people, or let them stop and +trade with the first boat which comes up the river. I will bring the +chiefs of the Pawnees and Mahas together, and make peace between them; +but it is better that I should do it than my great father’s sons, for +they will listen to me more readily. I will also take some chiefs to +your country in the spring; but before that time I cannot leave home. I +went formerly to the English, and they gave me a medal and some clothes: +when I went to the Spaniards they gave me a medal, but nothing to keep +it from my skin: but now you give me a medal and clothes. But still +we are poor; and I wish, brothers, you would give us something for our +squaws.’” + +When he sat down, Mahtoree, or White Crane, rose: + +“‘I have listened,’ said he, ‘to what our father’s words were +yesterday; and I am to-day glad to see how you have dressed our old +chief. I am a young man, and do not wish to take much; my fathers have +made me a chief; I had much sense before, but now I think I have more +than ever. What the old chief has declared I will confirm, and do +whatever he and you please; but I wish that you would take pity on us, +for we are very poor.’ + +“Another chief, called Pawnawneahpahbe, then said: + +“‘I am a young man, and know but little; I cannot speak well, but I +have listened to what you have told the old chief, and will do whatever +you agree.’ + +“The same sentiments were then repeated by Aweawechache. + +“We were surprised,” the journal says, “at finding that the first of +these titles means Struck by the Pawnee, and was occasioned by some blow +which the chief had received in battle from one of the Pawnee tribe. +The second is in English Half Man, which seemed a singular name for +a warrior, till it was explained to have its origin, probably, in the +modesty of the chief, who, on being told of his exploits, would say, +‘I am no warrior, I am only half a man.’ The other chiefs spoke very +little; but after they had finished, one of the warriors delivered a +speech, in which he declared he would support them. They promised to +make peace with the Ottoes and Missouris, the only nations with whom +they are at war. All these harangues concluded by describing the +distress of the nation: they begged us to have pity on them; to send +them traders; that they wanted powder and ball; and seemed anxious that +we should supply them with some of their great father’s milk, the name +by which they distinguish ardent spirits. We gave some tobacco to each +of the chiefs, and a certificate to two of the warriors who attended +the chief We prevailed on M. Durion (interpreter) to remain here, and +accompany as many of the Sioux chiefs as he could collect to the seat of +government. We also gave his son a flag, some clothes, and provisions, +with directions to bring about a peace between the surrounding tribes, +and to convey some of their chiefs to see the President. + +“The Indians who have just left us are the Yanktons, a tribe of the +great nation of Sioux. These Yanktons are about two hundred men in +number, and inhabit the Jacques, Des Moines, and Sioux Rivers. In person +they are stout, well proportioned, and have a certain air of dignity and +boldness. In their dress they differ nothing from the other bands of the +nation whom we met afterwards.” + +Of the Sioux let us say here, there are many bands, or subdivisions. +Some writers make eighteen of these principal branches. But the first +importance is given to the Sioux proper, or Dakotas. The name “Sioux” is +one of reproach, given by their enemies, and signifies “snake;” whereas +“Dakota” means “friend” or “ally.” The Lewis and Clark journal says of +the Yankton-Sioux:-- + +“What struck us most was an institution peculiar to them and to the Kite +(Crow) Indians further to the westward, from whom it is said to have +been copied. It is an association of the most active and brave young +men, who are bound to each other by attachment, secured by a vow, never +to retreat before any danger, or give way to their enemies. In war they +go forward without sheltering themselves behind trees, or aiding their +natural valor by any artifice. Their punctilious determination not to +be turned from their course became heroic, or ridiculous, a short time +since, when the Yanktons were crossing the Missouri on the ice. A hole +lay immediately in their course, which might easily have been avoided +by going around. This the foremost of the band disdained to do, but +went straight forward and was lost. The others would have followed his +example, but were forcibly prevented by the rest of the tribe. These +young men sit, camp, and dance together, distinct from the rest of the +nation; they are generally about thirty or thirty-five years old, and +such is the deference paid to courage that their seats in council are +superior to those of the chiefs and their persons more respected. But, +as may be supposed, such indiscreet bravery will soon diminish the +numbers of those who practise it; so that the band is now reduced to +four warriors, who were among our visitors. These were the remains of +twenty-two who composed the society not long ago; but, in a battle with +the Kite (Crow) Indians of the Black Mountains, eighteen of them were +killed, and these four were dragged from the field by their companions.” + +Just above the site of the city of Yankton, and near what is still known +as Bon Homme Island, Captain Clark explored a singular earth formation +in a bend of the river. This had all the appearance of an ancient +fortification, stretching across the bend and furnished with redoubts +and other features of a great fort. In the journal is given a glowing +account of the work and an elaborate map of the same. Modern research, +however, has proved that this strange arrangement of walls and parapets +is only a series of sand ridges formed by the currents of the river and +driftings of sand. Many of these so-called earthworks are situated on +the west bank of the Upper Missouri, in North Dakota and South Dakota. + +A few days later, the party saw a species of animal which they described +as “goats,”--very fleet, with short pronged horns inclining backward, +and with grayish hair, marked with white on the rump. This creature, +however, was the American antelope, then unknown to science, and first +described by Lewis and Clark. While visiting a strange dome-shaped +mountain, “resembling a cupola,” and now known as “the Tower,” the +explorers found the abode of another animal, heretofore unknown to them. +“About four acres of ground,” says the journal, “was covered with small +holes.” The account continues: “These are the residence of a little +animal, called by the French petit chien (little dog), which sit erect +near the mouth, and make a whistling noise, but, when alarmed, take +refuge in their holes. In order to bring them out we poured into one of +the holes five barrels of water without filling it, but we dislodged and +caught the owner. After digging down another of the holes for six feet, +we found, on running a pole into it, that we had not yet dug half-way to +the bottom: we discovered, however, two frogs in the hole, and near it +we killed a dark rattlesnake, which had swallowed a small prairie dog. +We were also informed, though we never witnessed the fact, that a sort +of lizard and a snake live habitually with these animals. The +petit chien are justly named, as they resemble a small dog in some +particulars, although they have also some points of similarity to the +squirrel. The head resembles the squirrel in every respect, except that +the ear is shorter; the tail like that of the ground squirrel; the toe +nails are long, the fur is fine, and the long hair is gray.” + +Great confusion has been caused in the minds of readers on account of +there being another burrowing animal, called by Lewis and Clark “the +burrowing squirrel,” which resembles the petit chien in some respects. +But the little animal described here is now well known as the +prairie-dog,--an unfortunate and misleading name. It is in no sense a +species of dog. The creature commonly weighs about three pounds, and its +note resembles that of a toy-dog. It is a species of marmot; it subsists +on grass roots and other vegetable products; its flesh is delicate and, +when fat, of good flavor. The writer of these lines, when crossing the +great plains, in early times, found the “prairie-dogs” excellent eating, +but difficult to kill; they are expert at diving into their holes at the +slightest signal of danger. + +The following days they saw large herds of buffalo, and the copses of +timber appeared to contain elk and deer, “just below Cedar Island,” + adds the journal, “on a hill to the south, is the backbone of a fish, +forty-five feet long, tapering towards the tail, and in a perfect +state of petrifaction, fragments of which were collected and sent to +Washington.” This was not a fish, but the fossil remains of a reptile of +one of the earliest geological periods. Here, too, the party saw immense +herds of buffalo, thousands in number, some of which they killed for +their meat and skins. They also saw elk, deer, turkeys, grouse, beaver, +and prairie-dogs. The journal bitterly complains of the “moschetoes,” + which were very troublesome. As mosquitoes we now know them. + +Oddly enough, the journal sometimes speaks of “goats” and sometimes of +“antelopes,” and the same animal is described in both instances. Here is +a good story of the fleetness of the beautiful creature:-- + +“Of all the animals we had seen, the antelope seems to possess the most +wonderful fleetness. Shy and timorous, they generally repose only on +the ridges, which command a view of all the approaches of an enemy: +the acuteness of their sight distinguishes the most distant danger; +the delicate sensibility of their smell defeats the precautions of +concealment; and, when alarmed, their rapid career seems more like +the flight of birds than the movements of a quadruped. After many +unsuccessful attempts, Captain Lewis at last, by winding around the +ridges, approached a party of seven, which were on an eminence towards +which the wind was unfortunately blowing. The only male of the party +frequently encircled the summit of the hill, as if to announce any +danger to the females, which formed a group at the top. Although they +did not see Captain Lewis, the smell alarmed them, and they fled when he +was at the distance of two hundred yards: he immediately ran to the +spot where they had been; a ravine concealed them from him; but the next +moment they appeared on a second ridge, at the distance of three miles. +He doubted whether they could be the same; but their number, and the +extreme rapidity with which they continued their course, convinced +him that they must have gone with a speed equal to that of the +most distinguished race-horse. Among our acquisitions to-day were a +mule-deer, a magpie, a common deer, and buffalo: Captain Lewis also +saw a hare, and killed a rattlesnake near the burrows of the barking +squirrels.” + +By “barking squirrels” the reader must understand that the animal better +known as the prairie-dog is meant; and the mule-deer, as the explorers +called it, was not a hybrid, but a deer with very long ears, better +known afterwards as the black-tailed deer. + +At the Big Bend of the Missouri, in the heart of what is now South +Dakota, while camped on a sand-bar, the explorers had a startling +experience. “Shortly after midnight,” says the journal, “the sleepers +were startled by the sergeant on guard crying out that the sand-bar was +sinking, and the alarm was timely given; for scarcely had they got off +with the boats before the bank under which they had been lying fell in; +and by the time the opposite shore was reached, the ground on which they +had been encamped sunk also. A man who was sent to step off the distance +across the head of the bend, made it but two thousand yards, while its +circuit is thirty miles.” + +The next day, three Sioux boys swam the river and told them that two +parties of their nation, one of eighty lodges, and one of sixty lodges, +were camped up the river, waiting to have a palaver with the white +explorers. These were Teton Sioux, and the river named for them still +bears that title. + + + + +Chapter V -- From the Tetons to the Mandans + +“On the morning of September 25th,” says the journal, “we raised a +flagstaff and an awning, under which we assembled, with all the party +parading under arms. The chiefs and warriors, from the camps two miles +up the river, met us, about fifty or sixty in number, and after smoking +we delivered them a speech; but as our Sioux interpreter, M. Durion, had +been left with the Yanktons, we were obliged to make use of a Frenchman +who could not speak fluently, and therefore we curtailed our harangue. +After this we went through the ceremony of acknowledging the chiefs, by +giving to the grand chief a medal, a flag of the United States, a laced +uniform coat, a cocked hat and feather; to the two other chiefs, a +medal and some small presents; and to two warriors of consideration, +certificates. The name of the great chief is Untongasabaw, or +Black Buffalo; the second, Tortohonga, or the Partisan; the third, +Tartongawaka, or Buffalo Medicine; the name of one of the warriors was +Wawzinggo; that of the second, Matocoquepa, or Second Bear. We then +invited the chiefs on board, and showed them the boat, the air-gun, and +such curiosities as we thought might amuse them. In this we succeeded +too well; for, after giving them a quarter of a glass of whiskey, which +they seemed to like very much, and sucked the bottle, it was with much +difficulty that we could get rid of them. They at last accompanied +Captain Clark on shore, in a pirogue with five men; but it seems they +had formed a design to stop us; for no sooner had the party landed than +three of the Indians seized the cable of the pirogue, and one of the +soldiers of the chief put his arms round the mast. The second chief, who +affected intoxication, then said that we should not go on; that they +had not received presents enough from us. Captain Clark told him that +he would not be prevented from going on; that we were not squaws, but +warriors; that we were sent by our great father, who could in a moment +exterminate them. The chief replied that he too had warriors, and was +proceeding to offer personal violence to Captain Clark, who immediately +drew his sword, and made a signal to the boat to prepare for action. The +Indians, who surrounded him, drew their arrows from their quivers, +and were bending their bows, when the swivel in the boat was instantly +pointed towards them, and twelve of our most determined men jumped into +the pirogue and joined Captain Clark. This movement made an impression +on them, for the grand chief ordered the young men away from the +pirogue, and they withdrew and held a short council with the warriors. +Being unwilling to irritate them, Captain Clark then went forward, and +offered his hand to the first and second chiefs, who refused to take it. +He then turned from them and got into the pirogue; but he had not got +more than ten paces, when both the chiefs and two of the warriors waded +in after him, and he brought them on board. We then proceeded on for a +mile, and anchored off a willow island, which, from the circumstances +which had just occurred, we called Bad-humored Island.” + +The policy of firmness and gentleness, which Lewis and Clark always +pursued when treating with the Indians, had its good results at this +time. What might have been a bloody encounter was averted, and next day +the Indians contritely came into camp and asked that their squaws and +children might see the white men and their boats, which would be to them +a novel sight. This was agreed to, and after the expedition had sailed +up the river and had been duly admired by a great crowd of men, women, +and children, the Tetons invited the white men to a dance. The journal +adds:-- + +“Captains Lewis and Clark, who went on shore one after the other, were +met on landing by ten well-dressed young men, who took them up in a robe +highly decorated and carried them to a large council-house, where they +were placed on a dressed buffalo-skin by the side of the grand chief. +The hall or council-room was in the shape of three-quarters of a circle, +covered at the top and sides with skins well dressed and sewed together. +Under this shelter sat about seventy men, forming a circle round the +chief, before whom were placed a Spanish flag and the one we had given +them yesterday. This left a vacant circle of about six feet diameter, +in which the pipe of peace was raised on two forked sticks, about six +or eight inches from the ground, and under it the down of the swan was +scattered. A large fire, in which they were cooking provisions, stood +near, and in the centre about four hundred pounds of buffalo meat as a +present for us. As soon as we were seated, an old man got up, and after +approving what we had done, begged us take pity on their unfortunate +situation. To this we replied with assurances of protection. After he +had ceased, the great chief rose and delivered a harangue to the same +effect; then with great solemnity he took some of the most delicate +parts of the dog which was cooked for the festival, and held it to the +flag by way of sacrifice; this done, he held up the pipe of peace, and +first pointed it toward the heavens, then to the four quarters of the +globe, then to the earth, made a short speech, lighted the pipe, and +presented it to us. We smoked, and he again harangued his people, after +which the repast was served up to us. It consisted of the dog which they +had just been cooking, this being a great dish among the Sioux, and used +on all festivals; to this were added pemitigon, a dish made of buffalo +meat, dried or jerked, and then pounded and mixed raw with grease and +a kind of ground potato, dressed like the preparation of Indian corn +called hominy, to which it is little inferior. Of all these luxuries, +which were placed before us in platters with horn spoons, we took the +pemitigon and the potato, which we found good, but we could as yet +partake but sparingly of the dog.” + +The “pemitigon” mentioned here is better known as pemmican, a sort of +dried meat, which may be eaten as prepared, or pounded fine and cooked +with other articles of food. This festival concluded with a grand dance, +which at midnight wound up the affair. + +As the description of these Tetons, given by Lewis and Clark, will give +the reader a good idea of the manners, customs, and personal appearance +of most of the Sioux nation, we will copy the journal in full. It is as +follows: + +“The tribe which we this day saw are a part of the great Sioux nation, +and are known by the name of the Teton Okandandas: they are about two +hundred men in number, and their chief residence is on both sides of the +Missouri, between the Chayenne and Teton Rivers. In their persons they +are rather ugly and ill-made, their legs and arms being too small, their +cheek-bones high, and their eyes projecting. The females, with the same +character of form, are more handsome; and both sexes appear cheerful and +sprightly; but in our intercourse with them we discovered that they were +cunning and vicious. + +“The men shave the hair off their heads, except a small tuft on the top, +which they suffer to grow, and wear in plaits over the shoulders; to +this they seem much attached, as the loss of it is the usual sacrifice +at the death of near relations. In full dress, the men of consideration +wear a hawk’s feather, or calumet feather worked with porcupine quills, +and fastened to the top of the head, from which it falls back. The face +and body are generally painted with a mixture of grease and coal. Over +the shoulders is a loose robe or mantle of buffalo skin dressed white, +adorned with porcupine quills, loosely fixed, so as to make a jingling +noise when in motion, and painted with various uncouth figures, +unintelligible to us, but to them emblematic of military exploits or +any other incident: the hair of the robe is worn next the skin in fair +weather, but when it rains the hair is put outside, and the robe is +either thrown over the arm or wrapped round the body, all of which it +may cover. Under this, in the winter season, they wear a kind of shirt +resembling ours, made either of skin or cloth, and covering the arms and +body. Round the middle is fixed a girdle of cloth, or procured dressed +elk-skin, about an inch in width, and closely tied to the body; to this +is attached a piece of cloth, or blanket, or skin, about a foot wide, +which passes between the legs, and is tucked under the girdle both +before and behind. From the hip to the ankle is covered by leggins of +dressed antelope skins, with seams at the sides two inches in width, and +ornamented by little tufts of hair, the produce of the scalps they have +made in war, which are scattered down the leg. The winter moccasins +are of dressed buffalo skin, the hair being worn inward, and soled with +thick elk-skin parchment; those for summer are of deer or elk-skin, +dressed without the hair, and with soles of elk-skin. On great +occasions, or whenever they are in full dress, the young men drag after +them the entire skin of a polecat fixed to the heel of the moccasin. +Another skin of the same animal, either tucked into the girdle or +carried in the hand, serves as a pouch for their tobacco, or what the +French traders call bois roule.(1) This is the inner bark of a species +of red willow, which, being dried in the sun or over the fire, is, +rubbed between the hands and broken into small pieces, and used alone or +mixed with tobacco. The pipe is generally of red earth, the stem made of +ash, about three or four feet long, and highly decorated with feathers, +hair, and porcupine-quills. . . . + + + (1) This is bois roule, or “rolled wood,” a poor kind of + tobacco rolled with various kinds of leaves, such as the + sumach and dogwood. The Indian name is kinnikinick. + + +“While on shore to-day we witnessed a quarrel between two squaws, which +appeared to be growing every moment more boisterous, when a man came +forward, at whose approach every one seemed terrified and ran. He took +the squaws and without any ceremony whipped them severely. On inquiring +into the nature of such summary justice, we learned that this man was +an officer well known to this and many other tribes. His duty is to keep +the peace, and the whole interior police of the village is confided to +two or three of these officers, who are named by the chief and remain in +power some days, at least till the chief appoints a successor. They +seem to be a sort of constable or sentinel, since they are always on +the watch to keep tranquillity during the day and guard the camp in the +night. The short duration of the office is compensated by its authority. +His power is supreme, and in the suppression of any riot or disturbance +no resistance to him is suffered; his person is sacred, and if in the +execution of his duty he strikes even a chief of the second class, +he cannot be punished for this salutary insolence. In general he +accompanies the person of the chief, and when ordered to any duty, +however dangerous, it is a point of honor rather to die than to refuse +obedience. Thus, when they attempted to stop us yesterday, the chief +ordered one of these men to take possession of the boat; he immediately +put his arms around the mast, and, as we understood, no force except the +command of the chief would have induced him to release his hold. Like +the other men his body is blackened, but his distinguishing mark is a +collection of two or three raven-skins fixed to the girdle behind the +back in such a way that the tails stick out horizontally from the body. +On his head, too, is a raven-skin split into two parts, and tied so as +to let the beak project from the forehead.” + +When the party of explorers subsequently made ready to leave, signs of +reluctance to have them go were apparent among the Indians. Finally, +several of the chief warriors sat on the rope that held the boat to +the shore. Irritated by this, Captain Lewis got ready to fire upon the +warriors, but, anxious to avoid bloodshed, he gave them more tobacco, +which they wanted, and then said to the chief, “You have told us that +you were a great man, and have influence; now show your influence by +taking the rope from those men, and we will then go on without further +trouble.” This appeal to the chieftain’s pride had the desired effect. +The warriors were compelled to give up the rope, which was delivered on +board, and the party set sail with a fresh breeze from the southeast. + +The explorers were soon out of the country of the Teton Sioux and into +that of the Ricaras, or, as these Indians are more commonly called, the +Rickarees. + +On the first day of October they passed the mouth of a river incorrectly +known as Dog River, as if corrupted from the French word chien. But the +true name is Cheyenne, from the Indians who bear that title. The stream +rises in the region called the Black Mountains by Lewis and Clark, on +account of the great quantity of dark cedar and pine trees that covered +the hills. This locality is now known as the Black Hills, in the midst +of which is the famous mining district of Deadwood. In these mountains, +according to Lewis and Clark, were to be found “great quantities +of goats, white bear, prairie cocks, and a species of animal which +resembled a small elk, with large circular horns.” By the “white bear” + the reader must understand that the grizzly bear is meant. Although this +animal, which was first discovered and described by Lewis and Clark, is +commonly referred to in the earlier pages of the journal as “white,” the +error naturally came from a desire to distinguish it from the black +and the cinnamon-colored bears. Afterwards, the journal refers to this +formidable creature as the grizzly, and again as the grisly. Certainly, +the bear was a grizzled gray; but the name “grisly,” that is to say, +horrible, or frightful, fitted him very well. The Latin name, _ursus +horribilis_ is not unlike one of those of Lewis and Clark’s selection. +The animals with circular curled horns, which the explorers thought +resembled a small elk, are now known as the Rocky Mountain sheep, or +bighorn. They very little resemble sheep, however, except in color, +head, horns, and feet. They are now so scarce as to be almost extinct. +They were among the discoveries of Lewis and Clark. The prairie cock +is known to western sportsmen as “prairie chicken;” it is a species of +grouse. + +It was now early in October, and the weather became very cool. So great +is the elevation of those regions that, although the days might be +oppressively warm, the nights were cold and white frosts were frequent. +Crossing the Rocky Mountains at the South Pass, far south of Lewis +and Clark’s route, emigrants who suffered from intense heat during the +middle of day found water in their pails frozen solid in the morning. + +The Rickarees were very curious and inquisitive regarding the white men. +But the journal adds: “The object which appeared to astonish the Indians +most was Captain Clark’s servant York, a remarkably stout, strong negro. +They had never seen a being of that color, and therefore flocked round +him to examine the extraordinary monster. By way of amusement, he told +them that he had once been a wild animal, and been caught and tamed by +his master; and to convince them, showed them feats of strength which, +added to his looks, made him more terrible than we wished him to be.” + +“On October 10th,” says the journal, “the weather was fine, and as we +were desirous of assembling the whole nation at once, we despatched Mr. +Gravelines (a trader)--who, with Mr. Tabeau, another French trader, had +breakfasted with us--to invite the chiefs of the two upper villages to +a conference. They all assembled at one o’clock, and after the usual +ceremonies we addressed them in the same way in which we had already +spoken to the Ottoes and Sioux. We then made or acknowledged three +chiefs, one for each of the three villages; giving to each a flag, a +medal, a red coat, a cocked hat and feather, also some goods, paint and +tobacco, which they divided among themselves. After this the air-gun was +exhibited, very much to their astonishment, nor were they less surprised +at the color and manner of York. On our side we were equally gratified +at discovering that these Ricaras made use of no spirituous liquors of +any kind, the example of the traders who bring it to them, so far +from tempting, having in fact disgusted them. Supposing that it was as +agreeable to them as to the other Indians, we had at first offered them +whiskey; but they refused it with this sensible remark, that they were +surprised that their father should present to them a liquor which would +make them fools. On another occasion they observed to Mr. Tabeau that no +man could be their friend who tried to lead them into such follies.” + +Presents were exchanged by the Indians and the white men; among the +gifts from the former was a quantity of a large, rich bean, which grows +wild and is collected by mice. The Indians hunt for the mice’s deposits +and cook and eat them. The Rickarees had a grand powwow with the white +chiefs and, after accepting presents, agreed to preserve peace with +all men, red or white. On the thirteenth of the month the explorers +discovered a stream which they named Stone-Idol Creek, on account of two +stones, resembling human figures, which adorn its banks. The creek is +now known as Spring River, and is in Campbell County, South Dakota. +Concerning the stone images the Indians gave this tradition:-- + +“A young man was deeply enamoured with a girl whose parents refused +their consent to the marriage. The youth went out into the fields to +mourn his misfortunes; a sympathy of feeling led the lady to the same +spot, and the faithful dog would not cease to follow his master. After +wandering together and having nothing but grapes to subsist on, they +were at last converted into stone, which, beginning at the feet, +gradually invaded the nobler parts, leaving nothing unchanged but a +bunch of grapes which the female holds in her hand to this day. Whenever +the Ricaras pass these sacred stones, they stop to make some offering +of dress to propitiate these deities. Such is the account given by the +Ricara chief, which we had no mode of examining, except that we found +one part of the story very agreeably confirmed; for on the river near +where the event is said to have occurred we found a greater abundance of +fine grapes than we had yet seen.” + +While at their last camp in the country now known as South Dakota, +October 14, 1804, one of the soldiers, tried by a court-martial for +mutinous conduct, was sentenced to receive seventy-five lashes on the +bare back. The sentence was carried out then and there. The Rickaree +chief, who accompanied the party for a time, was so affected by the +sight that he cried aloud during the whole proceeding. When the reasons +for the punishment were explained to him, he acknowledged the justice of +the sentence, but said he would have punished the offender with +death. His people, he added, never whip even their children at any age +whatever. + +On the eighteenth of October, the party reached Cannonball River, which +rises in the Black Hills and empties in the Missouri in Morton County, +North Dakota. Its name is derived from the perfectly round, smooth, +black stones that line its bed and shores. Here they saw great numbers +of antelope and herds of buffalo, and of elk. They killed six fallow +deer; and next day they counted fifty-two herds of buffalo and three +herds of elk at one view; they also observed deer, wolves, and pelicans +in large numbers. + +The ledges in the bluffs along the river often held nests of the calumet +bird, or golden eagle. These nests, which are apparently resorted to, +year after year, by the same pair of birds, are usually out of reach, +except by means of ropes by which the hunters are let down from the +cliffs overhead. The tail-feathers of the bird are twelve in number, +about a foot long, and are pure white except at the tip, which is +jet-black. So highly prized are these by the Indians that they have been +known to exchange a good horse for two feathers. + +The party saw here a great many elk, deer, antelope, and buffalo, and +these last were dogged along their way by wolves who follow them to feed +upon those that die by accident, or are too weak to keep up with the +herd. Sometimes the wolves would pounce upon a calf, too young and +feeble to trot with the other buffalo; and although the mother made an +effort to save her calf, the creature was left to the hungry wolves, the +herd moving along without delay. + +On the twenty-first of October, the explorers reached a creek to which +the Indians gave the name of Chisshetaw, now known as Heart River, +which, rising in Stark County, North Dakota, and running circuitously +through Morton County, empties into the Missouri opposite the city of +Bismarck. At this point the Northern Pacific Railway now crosses the +Missouri; and here, where is built the capital of North Dakota, began, +in those days, a series of Mandan villages, with the people of which +the explorers were to become tolerably well acquainted; for it had been +decided that the increasing cold of the weather would compel them to +winter in this region. But they were as yet uncertain as to the exact +locality at which they would build their camp of winter. Here they met +one of the grand chiefs of the Mandans, who was on a hunting excursion +with his braves. This chief greeted with much ceremony the Rickaree +chief who accompanied the exploring party. The Mandans and Rickarees +were ancient enemies, but, following the peaceful councils of the white +men, the chiefs professed amity and smoked together the pipe of peace. +A son of the Mandan chief was observed to have lost both of his little +fingers, and when the strangers asked how this happened, they were told +that the fingers had been cut off (according to the Mandan custom) to +show the grief of the young man at the loss of some of his relations. + + + + +Chapter VI -- Winter among the Mandans + +Before finally selecting the spot on which to build their winter +quarters, Lewis and Clark held councils with the chiefs of the tribes +who were to be their neighbors during the cold season. These were +Mandans, Annahaways, and Minnetarees, tribes living peacefully in the +same region of country. The principal Mandan chief was Black Cat; White +Buffalo Robe Unfolded represented the Annahaways, and the Minnetaree +chief was Black Moccasin. This last-named chief could not come to the +council, but was represented by Caltahcota, or Cherry on a Bush. The +palaver being over, presents were distributed. The account says:-- + +“One chief of each town was acknowledged by a gift of a flag, a medal +with the likeness of the President of the United States, a uniform coat, +hat and feather. To the second chiefs we gave a medal representing some +domestic animals and a loom for weaving; to the third chiefs, medals +with the impressions of a farmer sowing grain. A variety of other +presents were distributed, but none seemed to give them more +satisfaction than an iron corn-mill which we gave to the Mandans. . . . + +“In the evening the prairie took fire, either by accident or design, and +burned with great fury, the whole plain being enveloped in flames. +So rapid was its progress that a man and a woman were burned to death +before they could reach a place of safety; another man, with his wife +and child, were much burned, and several other persons narrowly escaped +destruction. Among the rest, a boy of the half white breed escaped +unhurt in the midst of the flames; his safety was ascribed to the great +medicine spirit, who had preserved him on account of his being white. +But a much more natural cause was the presence of mind of his mother, +who, seeing no hopes of carrying off her son, threw him on the ground, +and, covering him with the fresh hide of a buffalo, escaped herself from +the flames. As soon as the fire had passed, she returned and found him +untouched, the skin having prevented the flame from reaching the grass +on which he lay.” + +Next day, says the journal,-- + +“We were visited by two persons from the lower village: one, the Big +White, the chief of the village; the other, the Chayenne, called the Big +Man: they had been hunting, and did not return yesterday early enough to +attend the council. At their request we repeated part of our speech of +yesterday, and put the medal round the neck of the chief. Captain +Clark took a pirogue and went up the river in search of a good +wintering-place, and returned after going seven miles to the lower point +of an island on the north side, about one mile in length. He found the +banks on the north side high, with coal occasionally, and the country +fine on all sides; but the want of wood, and the scarcity of game up the +river, induced us to decide on fixing ourselves lower down during the +winter. In the evening our men danced among themselves, to the great +amusement of the Indians.” + +It may be said here that the incident of a life saved from fire by a +raw-hide, originally related by Lewis and Clark, is the foundation of +a great many similar stories of adventures among the Indians. Usually, +however, it is a wise and well-seasoned white trapper who saves his life +by this device. + +Having found a good site for their winter camp, the explorers now built +a number of huts, which they called Fort Mandan. The place was on the +north bank of the Missouri River, in what is now McLean County, North +Dakota, about sixteen hundred miles up the river from St. Louis, and +seven or eight miles below the mouth of Big Knife River. On the opposite +bank, years later, the United States built a military post known as Fort +Clark, which may be found on some of the present-day maps. The huts were +built of logs, and were arranged in two rows, four rooms in each hut, +the whole number being placed in the form of an angle, with a stockade, +or picket, across the two outer ends of the angle, in which was a gate, +kept locked at night. The roofs of the huts slanted upward from the +inner side of the rows, making the outer side of each hut eighteen feet +high; and the lofts of these were made warm and comfortable with dry +grass mixed with clay, Here they were continually visited during the +winter by Indians from all the region around. Here, too, they secured +the services of an interpreter, one Chaboneau, who continued with them +to the end. This man’s wife, Sacajawea, whose Indian name was translated +“Bird Woman,” had been captured from the Snake Indians and sold to +Chaboneau, who married her. She was “a good creature, of a mild and +gentle disposition, greatly attached to the whites.” In the expedition +she proved herself more valuable to the explorers than her husband, and +Lewis and Clark always speak of her in terms of respect and admiration. + +It should not be understood that all the interpreters employed by white +men on such expeditions wholly knew the spoken language of the tribes +among whom they travelled. To some extent they relied upon the universal +language of signs to make themselves understood, and this method of +talking is known to all sorts and kinds of Indians. Thus, two fingers of +the right hand placed astraddle the wrist of the left hand signifies a +man on horseback; and the number of men on horseback is quickly added by +holding up the requisite number of fingers. Sleep is described by gently +inclining the head on the hand, and the number of “sleeps,” or nights, +is indicated by the fingers. Killed, or dead, is described by closed +eyes and a sudden fall of the head on the talker’s chest; and so on, an +easily understood gesture, with a few Indian words, being sufficient to +tell a long story very clearly. + +Lewis and Clark discovered here a species of ermine before unknown +to science. They called it “a weasel, perfectly white except at the +extremity of the tail, which was black.” This animal, highly prized on +account of its pretty fur, was not scientifically described until as +late as 1829. It is a species of stoat. + +The wars of some of the Indian tribes gave Lewis and Clark much trouble +and uneasiness. The Sioux were at war with the Minnetarees (Gros +Ventres, or Big Bellies); and the Assiniboins, who lived further to the +north, continually harassed the Sioux and the Mandans, treating these as +the latter did the Rickarees. The white chiefs had their hands full +all winter while trying to preserve peace among these quarrelsome and +thieving tribes, their favorite game being to steal each other’s horses. +The Indian method of caring for their horses in the cold winter was +to let them shift for themselves during the day, and to take them into +their own lodges at night where they were fed with the juicy, brittle +twigs of the cottonwood tree. With this spare fodder the animals thrive +and keep their coats fine and glossy. + +Late in November, a collision between the Sioux and the Mandans became +almost certain, in consequence of the Sioux having attacked a small +hunting party of the Mandans, killing one, wounding two, and capturing +nine horses. Captain Clark mustered and armed twenty-four of his men, +crossed over into the Mandan village and offered to lead the Indians +against their enemies. The offer was declined on account of the deep +snows which prevented a march; but the incident made friends for white +men, and the tidings of it had a wholesome effect on the other tribes. + +“The whole religion of the Mandans,” like that of many other savage +tribes, says the journal, “consists in the belief of one Great Spirit +presiding over their destinies. This Being must be in the nature of a +good genius, since it is associated with the healing art, and ‘great +spirit’ is synonymous with ‘great medicine,’ a name applied to +everything which they do not comprehend. Each individual selects for +himself the particular object of his devotion, which is termed his +medicine, and is either some invisible being, or more commonly some +animal, which thenceforward becomes his protector or his intercessor +with the Great Spirit, to propitiate whom every attention is lavished +and every personal consideration is sacrificed. ‘I was lately owner of +seventeen horses,’ said a Mandan to us one day, ‘but I have offered them +all up to my medicine and am now poor.’ He had in reality taken all his +wealth, his horses, into the plain, and, turning them loose, committed +them to the care of his medicine and abandoned them forever. The horses, +less religious, took care of themselves, and the pious votary travelled +home on foot.” + +To this day, all the Northwest Indians speak of anything that is highly +useful or influential as “great medicine.” + +One cold December day, a Mandan chief invited the explorers to join them +in a grand buffalo hunt. The journal adds:-- + +“Captain Clark with fifteen men went out and found the Indians engaged +in killing buffalo. The hunters, mounted on horseback and armed with +bows and arrows, encircle the herd and gradually drive them into a plain +or an open place fit for the movements of horse; they then ride in among +them, and singling out a buffalo, a female being preferred, go as close +as possible and wound her with arrows till they think they have +given the mortal stroke; when they pursue another, till the quiver is +exhausted. If, which rarely happens, the wounded buffalo attacks the +hunter, he evades his blow by the agility of his horse, which is trained +for the combat with great dexterity. When they have killed the requisite +number they collect their game, and the squaws and attendants come up +from the rear and skin and dress the animals. Captain Clark killed ten +buffalo, of which five only were brought to the fort; the rest, which +could not be conveyed home, being seized by the Indians, among whom the +custom is that whenever a buffalo is found dead without an arrow or +any particular mark, he is the property of the finder; so that often a +hunter secures scarcely any of the game he kills, if the arrow happens +to fall off.” + +The weather now became excessively cold, the mercury often going +thirty-two degrees below zero. Notwithstanding this, however, the +Indians kept up their outdoor sports, one favorite game of which +resembled billiards. But instead of a table, the players had an open +flooring, about fifty yards long, and the balls were rings of stone, +shot along the flooring by means of sticks like billiard-cues. The white +men had their sports, and they forbade the Indians to visit them on +Christmas Day, as this was one of their “great medicine days.” The +American flag was hoisted on the fort and saluted with a volley of +musketry. The men danced among themselves; their best provisions +were brought out and “the day passed,” says the journal, “in great +festivity.” + +The party also celebrated New Year’s Day by similar festivities. Sixteen +of the men were given leave to go up to the first Mandan village with +their musical instruments, where they delighted the whole tribe with +their dances, one of the French voyageurs being especially applauded +when he danced on his hands with his head downwards. The dancers and +musicians were presented with several buffalo-robes and a large quantity +of Indian corn. The cold grew more intense, and on the tenth of the +month the mercury stood at forty degrees below zero. Some of the men +were badly frost-bitten, and a young Indian, about thirteen years old, +who had been lost in the snows, came into the fort. The journal says:-- + +“His father, who came last night to inquire after him very anxiously, +had sent him in the afternoon to the fort; he was overtaken by the +night, and was obliged to sleep on the snow with no covering except a +pair of antelope-skin moccasins and leggins, and a buffalo-robe. His +feet being frozen, we put them into cold water, and gave him every +attention in our power. About the same time an Indian who had also been +missing returned to the fort. Although his dress was very thin, and he +had slept on the snow without a fire, he had not suffered the slightest +inconvenience. We have indeed observed that these Indians support the +rigors of the season in a way which we had hitherto thought impossible. +A more pleasing reflection occurred at seeing the warm interest which +the situation of these two persons had excited in the village. The boy +had been a prisoner, and adopted from charity; yet the distress of the +father proved that he felt for him the tenderest affection. The man was +a person of no distinction, yet the whole village was full of anxiety +for his safety; and, when they came to us, borrowed a sleigh to bring +them home with ease if they had survived, or to carry their bodies if +they had perished. . . . + +“January 13. Nearly one half of the Mandan nation passed down the river +to hunt for several days. In these excursions, men, women, and children, +with their dogs, all leave the village together, and, after discovering +a spot convenient for the game, fix their tents; all the family bear +their part in the labor, and the game is equally divided among the +families of the tribe. When a single hunter returns from the chase with +more than is necessary for his own immediate consumption, the neighbors +are entitled by custom to a share of it: they do not, however, ask for +it, but send a squaw, who, without saying anything, sits down by the +door of the lodge till the master understands the hint, and gives her +gratuitously a part for her family.” + +By the end of January, 1805, the weather had so far moderated that the +explorers thought they might cut their boats from the ice in the river +and prepare to resume their voyage; but the ice being three feet thick, +they made no progress and were obliged to give up the attempt. Their +stock of meat was low, although they had had good success when the cold +was not too severe to prevent them from hunting deer, elk, and buffalo. +The Mandans, who were careless in providing food for future supplies, +also suffered for want of meat, sometimes going for days without flesh +food. Captain Clark and eighteen men went down the river in search of +game. The hunters, after being out nine days, returned and reported that +they had killed forty deer, three buffalo, and sixteen elk. But much of +the game was lean and poor, and the wolves, who devour everything left +out at night, had stolen a quantity of the flesh. Four men, with sleds, +were sent out to bring into camp the meat, which had been secured +against wolves by being stored in pens. These men were attacked by +Sioux, about one hundred in number, who robbed them of their game +and two of their three horses. Captain Lewis, with twenty-four men, +accompanied by some of the Mandans, set out in pursuit of the marauders. +They were unsuccessful, however, but, having found a part of their game +untouched, they brought it back, and this, with other game killed after +their chase of the Sioux, gave them three thousand pounds of meat; they +had killed thirty-six deer, fourteen elk, and one wolf. + +By the latter part of February, the party were able to get their boats +from the ice. These were dragged ashore, and the work of making them +ready for their next voyage was begun. As the ice in the river began to +break up, the Mandans had great sport chasing across the floating cakes +of ice the buffalo who were tempted over by the appearance of green, +growing grass on the other side. The Indians were very expert in their +pursuit of the animals, which finally slipped from their insecure +footing on the drifting ice, and were killed. + +At this point, April 7, 1805, the escorting party, the voyageurs, and +one interpreter, returned down the river in their barge. This party +consisted of thirteen persons, all told, and to them were intrusted +several packages of specimens for President Jefferson, with letters +and official reports. The presents for Mr. Jefferson, according to the +journal, “consisted of a stuffed male and female antelope, with their +skeletons, a weasel, three squirrels from the Rocky Mountains, the +skeleton of a prairie wolf, those of a white and gray hare, a male +and female blaireau, (badger) or burrowing dog of the prairie, with a +skeleton of the female, two burrowing squirrels, a white weasel, and the +skin of the louservia (loup-servier, or lynx), the horns of a mountain +ram, or big-horn, a pair of large elk horns, the horns and tail of a +black-tailed deer, and a variety of skins, such as those of the red fox, +white hare, marten, yellow bear, obtained from the Sioux; also a number +of articles of Indian dress, among which was a buffalo robe representing +a battle fought about eight years since between the Sioux and Ricaras +against the Mandans and Minnetarees, in which the combatants are +represented on horseback. . . . Such sketches, rude and imperfect as +they are, delineate the predominant character of the savage nations. +If they are peaceable and inoffensive, the drawings usually consist of +local scenery and their favorite diversions. If the band are rude and +ferocious, we observe tomahawks, scalping-knives, bows and arrows, and +all the engines of destruction.--A Mandan bow, and quiver of arrows; +also some Ricara tobacco-seed, and an ear of Mandan corn: to these were +added a box of plants, another of insects, and three cases containing a +burrowing squirrel, a prairie hen, and four magpies, all alive.” . . . + +The articles reached Mr. Jefferson safely and were long on view at his +Virginia residence, Monticello. They were subsequently dispersed, and +some found their way to Peale’s Museum, Philadelphia. Dr. Cones, the +zealous editor of the latest and fullest edition of Lewis and Clark’s +narrative, says that some of the specimens of natural history were +probably extant in 1893. + + + + +Chapter VII -- From Fort Mandan to the Yellowstone + +Up to this time, the expedition had passed through regions from which +vague reports had been brought by the few white men who, as hunters and +trappers in pursuit of fur-bearing game, had dared to venture into these +trackless wildernesses. Now they were to launch out into the mysterious +unknown, from which absolutely no tidings had ever been brought by white +men. The dim reports of Indians who had hunted through some parts of the +region were unreliable, and, as they afterwards proved, were often as +absurdly false as if they had been fairy tales. + +Here, too, they parted from some of their comrades who were to return +to “the United States,” as the explorers fondly termed their native +country, although the strange lands through which they were voyaging +were now a part of the American Republic. The despatches sent to +Washington by these men contained the first official report from Lewis +and Clark since their departure from St. Louis, May 16, 1803; and they +were the last word from the explorers until their return in September, +1806. During all that long interval, the adventurers were not heard of +in the States. No wonder that croakers declared that the little party +had been cut off to perish miserably in the pathless woods that cover +the heart of the continent. + +But they set out on the long journey with light hearts. In his journal, +whose spelling and punctuation are not always models for the faithful +imitation of school-boys, Captain Lewis set down this observation:-- + +“Our vessels consisted of six small canoes, and two large perogues. This +little fleet altho’ not quite so respectable as those of Columbus or +Capt. Cook, were still viewed by us with as much pleasure as those +deservedly famed adventurers ever beheld theirs; and I dare say with +quite as much anxiety for their safety and preservation. We were now +about to penetrate a country at least two thousand miles in width, on +which the foot of civilized man had never trodden; the good or evil +it had in store for us was for experiment yet to determine, and these +little vessels contained every article by which we were to expect to +subsist or defend ourselves. However as the state of mind in which we +are, generally gives the colouring to events, when the imagination is +suffered to wander into futurity, the picture which now presented itself +to me was a most pleasing one. Entertaining as I do the most confident +hope of succeeding in a voyage which had formed a darling project of +mine for the last ten years, I could but esteem this moment of our +departure as among the most happy of my life.” + +The barge sent down the river to St. Louis was in command of Corporal +Wharfington; and with him were six private soldiers, two French +voyageurs, Joseph Gravelines (pilot and interpreter), and Brave Raven, a +Ricara (or Arikara) chief who was to be escorted to Washington to visit +the President. The party was also intrusted with sundry gifts for the +President, among them being natural history specimens, living and dead, +and a number of Indian articles which would be objects of curiosity in +Washington. + +The long voyage of the main party began on the 8th of April, 1805, early +passing the mouth of the Big Knife River, one of the five considerable +streams that fall into the Missouri from the westward in this region; +the other streams are the Owl, the Grand, the Cannonball, and the Heart. +The large town of Stanton, Mercer County, North Dakota, is now situated +at the mouth of the Big Knife. The passage of the party up the river was +slow, owing to unfavorable winds; and they observed along the banks +many signs of early convulsions of nature. The earth of the bluffs was +streaked with layers of coal, or carbonized wood, and large quantities +of lava and pumice-stone were strewn around, showing traces of ancient +volcanic action. The journal of April 9 says:-- + +“A great number of brants (snow-geese) pass up the river; some of them +are perfectly white, except the large feathers of the first joint of +the wing, which are black, though in every other characteristic they +resemble common gray brant. We also saw but could not procure an animal +(gopher) that burrows in the ground, and is similar in every respect to +the burrowing-squirrel, except that it is only one-third of its size. +This may be the animal whose works we have often seen in the plains and +prairies; they resemble the labors of the salamander in the sand-hills +of South Carolina and Georgia, and like him the animals rarely come +above ground; they consist of a little hillock of ten or twelve pounds +of loose ground, which would seem to have been reversed from a pot, +though no aperture is seen through which it could have been thrown. On +removing gently the earth, you discover that the soil has been broken +in a circle of about an inch and a half diameter, where the ground is +looser, though still no opening is perceptible. When we stopped for +dinner the squaw (Sacajawea) went out, and after penetrating with a +sharp stick the holes of the mice (gophers), near some drift-wood, +brought to us a quantity of wild artichokes, which the mice collect and +hoard in large numbers. The root is white, of an ovate form, from one to +three inches long, and generally of the size of a man’s finger, and two, +four, and sometimes six roots are attached to a single stalk. Its +flavor as well as the stalk which issues from it resemble those of the +Jerusalem artichoke, except that the latter is much larger.” + +The weather rapidly grew so warm, although this was early in April, +that the men worked half-naked during the day; and they were very much +annoyed by clouds of mosquitoes. They found that the hillsides and +even the banks of the rivers and sand-bars were covered with “a white +substance, which appears in considerable quantities on the surface +of the earth, and tastes like a mixture of common salt with Glauber’s +salts.” “Many of the streams,” the journal adds, “are so strongly +impregnated with this substance that the water has an unpleasant taste +and a purgative effect.” This is nothing more than the so-called alkali +which has since become known all over the farthest West. It abounds in +the regions west of Salt Lake Valley, whitening vast areas like snow and +poisoning the waters so that the traveller often sees the margins of +the brown pools lined with skeletons and bodies of small animals whose +thirst had led them to drink the deadly fluid. Men and animals stiffer +from smaller doses of this stuff, which is largely a sulphate of soda, +and even in small quantities is harmful to the system. + +Here, on the twelfth of April, they were able to determine the exact +course of the Little Missouri, a stream about which almost nothing was +then known. Near here, too, they found the source of the Mouse River, +only a few miles from the Missouri. The river, bending to the north and +then making many eccentric curves, finally empties into Lake Winnipeg, +and so passes into the great chain of northern lakes in British America. +At this point the explorers saw great flocks of the wild Canada goose. +The journal says:-- + +“These geese, we observe, do not build their nests on the ground or in +the sand-bars, but in the tops of the lofty cottonwood trees. We saw +some elk and buffalo to-day, but at too great a distance to obtain +any of them, though a number of the carcasses of the latter animal are +strewed along the shore, having fallen through the ice and been swept +along when the river broke up. More bald eagles are seen on this part of +the Missouri than we have previously met with; the small sparrow-hawk, +common in most parts of the United States, is also found here. Great +quantities of geese are feeding on the prairies, and one flock of white +brant, or geese with black-tipped wings, and some gray brant with them, +pass up the river; from their flight they seem to proceed much further +to the northwest. We killed two antelopes, which were very lean, and +caught last night two beavers.” + +Lewis and Clark were laughed at by some very knowing people who +scouted the idea that wild geese build their nests in trees. But later +travellers have confirmed their story; the wise geese avoid foxes and +other of their four-footed enemies by fixing their homes in the tall +cottonwoods. In other words, they roost high. + +The Assiniboins from the north had lately been on their spring hunting +expeditions through this region,--just above the Little Missouri,--and +game was scarce and shy. The journal, under the date of April 14, +says:-- + +“One of the hunters shot at an otter last evening; a buffalo was killed, +and an elk, both so poor as to be almost unfit for use; two white +(grizzly) bears were also seen, and a muskrat swimming across the river. +The river continues wide and of about the same rapidity as the ordinary +current of the Ohio. The low grounds are wide, the moister parts +containing timber; the upland is extremely broken, without wood, and in +some places seems as if it had slipped down in masses of several acres +in surface. The mineral appearance of salts, coal, and sulphur, with the +burnt hill and pumice-stone, continue, and a bituminous water about +the color of strong lye, with the taste of Glauber’s salts and a slight +tincture of alum. Many geese were feeding in the prairies, and a number +of magpies, which build their nests much like those of the blackbird, in +trees, and composed of small sticks, leaves, and grass, open at the top; +the egg is of a bluish-brown color, freckled with reddish-brown spots. +We also killed a large hooting-owl resembling that of the United States +except that it was more booted and clad with feathers. On the hills +are many aromatic herbs, resembling in taste, smell, and appearance the +sage, hyssop, wormwood, southernwood, juniper, and dwarf cedar; a plant +also about two or three feet high, similar to the camphor in smell and +taste; and another plant of the same size, with a long, narrow, smooth, +soft leaf, of an agreeable smell and flavor, which is a favorite food of +the antelope, whose necks are often perfumed by rubbing against it.” + +What the journalist intended to say here was that at least one of the +aromatic herbs resembled sage, hyssop, wormwood, and southernwood, and +that there were junipers and dwarf cedars. The pungent-smelling herb was +the wild sage, now celebrated in stories of adventure as the sage-brush. +It grows abundantly in the alkali country, and is browsed upon by a +species of grouse known as the sage-hen. Junipers and dwarf cedars also +grow on the hills of the alkali and sage-brush country. The sage belongs +to the Artemisia family of plants. + +Four days later, the journal had this interesting entry: + +“The country to-day presented the usual variety of highlands +interspersed with rich plains. In one of these we observed a species of +pea bearing a yellow flower, which is now in blossom, the leaf and stalk +resembling the common pea. It seldom rises higher than six inches, and +the root is perennial. On the rose-bushes we also saw a quantity of +the hair of a buffalo, which had become perfectly white by exposure and +resembled the wool of the sheep, except that it was much finer and more +soft and silky. A buffalo which we killed yesterday had shed his long +hair, and that which remained was about two inches long, thick, fine, +and would have furnished five pounds of wool, of which we have no doubt +an excellent cloth may be made. Our game to-day was a beaver, a deer, an +elk, and some geese. . . . + +“On the hills we observed considerable quantities of dwarf juniper, +which seldom grows higher than three feet. We killed in the course of +the day an elk, three geese, and a beaver. The beaver on this part of +the Missouri are in greater quantities, larger and fatter, and their fur +is more abundant and of a darker color, than any we have hitherto seen. +Their favorite food seems to be the bark of the cottonwood and willow, +as we have seen no other species of tree that has been touched by them, +and these they gnaw to the ground through a diameter of twenty inches.” + +And on the twenty-first of April the journal says: + +“Last night there was a hard white frost, and this morning the weather +was cold, but clear and pleasant; in the course of the day, however, it +became cloudy and the wind rose. The country is of the same description +as within the few last days. We saw immense quantities of buffalo, +elk, deer, antelopes, geese, and some swans and ducks, out of which we +procured three deer and four buffalo calves, which last are equal in +flavor to the most delicious veal; also two beaver and an otter.” + +As the party advanced to the westward, following the crooked course +of the Missouri, they were very much afflicted with inflamed eyes, +occasioned by the fine, alkaline dust that blew so lightly that it +sometimes floated for miles, like clouds of smoke. The dust even +penetrated the works of one of their watches, although it was protected +by tight, double cases. In these later days, even the double windows of +the railway trains do not keep out this penetrating dust, which makes +one’s skin dry and rough. + +On the twenty-fifth of April, the explorers believed, by the signs which +they observed, that they must be near the great unknown river of which +they had dimly heard as rising in the rocky passes of the Great Divide +and emptying into the Missouri. Captain Lewis accordingly left the +party, with four men, and struck off across the country in search of +the stream. Under the next day’s date the journal reports the return of +Captain Lewis and says:-- + +“On leaving us yesterday he pursued his route along the foot of the +hills, which he descended to the distance of eight miles; from these +the wide plains watered by the Missouri and the Yellowstone spread +themselves before the eye, occasionally varied with the wood of the +banks, enlivened by the irregular windings of the two rivers, and +animated by vast herds of buffalo, deer, elk, and antelope. The +confluence of the two rivers was concealed by the wood, but the +Yellowstone itself was only two miles distant, to the south. He +therefore descended the hills and camped on the bank of the river, +having killed, as he crossed the plain, four buffaloes; the deer alone +are shy and retire to the woods, but the elk, antelope, and buffalo +suffered him to approach them without alarm, and often followed him +quietly for some distance.” + +The famous water-course, first described by Lewis and Clark, was named +by them the Yellow Stone River. Earlier than this, however, the French +voyageurs had called the Upper Missouri the Riviere Jaune, or Yellow +River; but it is certain that the stream, which rises in the Yellowstone +National Park, was discovered and named by Lewis and Clark. One of the +party, Private Joseph Fields, was the first white man who ever ascended +the Yellowstone for any considerable distance. Sent up the river by +Captains Lewis and Clark, he travelled about eight miles, and observed +the currents and sand-bars. Leaving the mouth of the river, the party +went on their course along the Missouri. The journal, under date of +April 27, says:-- + +“From the point of junction a wood occupies the space between the two +rivers, which at the distance of a mile come within two hundred and +fifty yards of each other. There a beautiful low plain commences, +widening as the rivers recede, and extends along each of them for +several miles, rising about half a mile from the Missouri into a plain +twelve feet higher than itself. The low plain is a few inches above high +water mark, and where it joins the higher plain there is a channel of +sixty or seventy yards in width, through which a part of the Missouri, +when at its greatest height, passes into the Yellowstone. . . . + +“The northwest wind rose so high at eleven o’clock that we were obliged +to stop till about four in the afternoon, when we proceeded till dusk. +On the south a beautiful plain separates the two rivers, till at about +six miles there is a piece of low timbered ground, and a little above it +bluffs, where the country rises gradually from the river: the situations +on the north are more high and open. We encamped on that side, the +wind, the sand which it raised, and the rapidity of the current having +prevented our advancing more than eight miles; during the latter part of +the day the river became wider, and crowded with sand-bars. The game +was in such plenty that we killed only what was necessary for our +subsistence. For several days past we have seen great numbers of buffalo +lying dead along the shore, some of them partly devoured by the wolves. +They have either sunk through the ice during the winter, or been drowned +in attempting to cross; or else, after crossing to some high bluff, have +found themselves too much exhausted either to ascend or swim back again, +and perished for want of food: in this situation we found several small +parties of them. There are geese, too, in abundance, and more bald +eagles than we have hitherto observed; the nests of these last being +always accompanied by those of two or three magpies, who are their +inseparable attendants.” + + + + +Chapter VIII -- In the Haunts of Grizzlies and Buffalo + +Game, which had been somewhat scarce after leaving the Yellowstone, +became more plentiful as they passed on to the westward, still +following the winding course of the Missouri. Much of the time, baffling +winds and the crookedness of the stream made sailing impossible, and the +boats were towed by men walking along the banks. + +Even this was sometimes difficult, on account of the rocky ledges that +beset the shores, and sharp stones that lay in the path of the towing +parties. On the twenty-eighth of April, however, having a favorable +wind, the party made twenty-eight miles with their sails, which was +reckoned a good day’s journey. On that day the journal records that game +had again become very abundant, deer of various kinds, elk, buffalo, +antelope, bear, beaver, and geese being numerous. The beaver, it was +found, had wrought much damage by gnawing down trees; some of these, not +less than three feet in diameter had been gnawed clean through by the +beaver. On the following day the journal has this record:-- + +“We proceeded early, with a moderate wind. Captain Lewis, who was on +shore with one hunter, met, about eight o’clock, two white (grizzly) +bears. Of the strength and ferocity of this animal the Indians had given +us dreadful accounts. They never attack him but in parties of six or +eight persons, and even then are often defeated with a loss of one or +more of their party. Having no weapons but bows and arrows, and the bad +guns with which the traders supply them, they are obliged to approach +very near to the bear; as no wound except through the head or heart +is mortal, they frequently fall a sacrifice if they miss their aim. He +rather attacks than avoids a man, and such is the terror which he has +inspired, that the Indians who go in quest of him paint themselves and +perform all the superstitious rites customary when they make war on a +neighboring nation. Hitherto, those bears we had seen did not appear +desirous of encountering us; but although to a skilful rifleman the +danger is very much diminished, yet the white bear is still a terrible +animal. On approaching these two, both Captain Lewis and the hunter +fired, and each wounded a bear. One of them made his escape; the other +turned upon Captain Lewis and pursued him seventy or eighty yards, but +being badly wounded the bear could not run so fast as to prevent him +from reloading his piece, which he again aimed at him, and a third shot +from the hunter brought him to the ground. He was a male, not quite full +grown, and weighed about three hundred pounds. The legs are somewhat +longer than those of the black bear, and the talons and tusks much +larger and longer. Its color is a yellowish-brown; the eyes are small, +black, and piercing; the front of the fore legs near the feet is usually +black, and the fur is finer, thicker, and deeper than that of the black +bear. Add to which, it is a more furious animal, and very remarkable for +the wounds which it will bear without dying.” + +Next day, the hunter killed the largest elk which they had ever seen. It +stood five feet three inches high from hoof to shoulder. Antelopes were +also numerous, but lean, and not very good for food. Of the antelope the +journal says:-- + +“These fleet and quick-sighted animals are generally the victims of +their curiosity. When they first see the hunters, they run with great +velocity; if he lies down on the ground, and lifts up his arm, his hat, +or his foot, they return with a light trot to look at the object, and +sometimes go and return two or three times, till they approach within +reach of the rifle. So, too, they sometimes leave their flock to go +and look at the wolves, which crouch down, and, if the antelope is +frightened at first, repeat the same manoevre, and sometimes relieve +each other, till they decoy it from the party, when they seize it. But, +generally, the wolves take them as they are crossing the rivers; for, +although swift on foot, they are not good swimmers.” + +Later wayfarers across the plains were wont to beguile the antelope by +fastening a bright-colored handkerchief to a ramrod stuck in the ground. +The patient hunter was certain to be rewarded by the antelope coming +within range of his rifle; for, unless scared off by some interference, +the herd, after galloping around and around and much zigzagging, would +certainly seek to gratify their curiosity by gradually circling nearer +and nearer the strange object until a deadly shot or two sent havoc into +their ranks. + +May came on cold and windy, and on the second of the month, the journal +records that snow fell to the depth of an inch, contrasting strangely +with the advanced vegetation. + +“Our game to-day,” proceeds the journal, “were deer, elk, and buffalo: +we also procured three beaver. They were here quite gentle, as they have +not been hunted; but when the hunters are in pursuit, they never leave +their huts during the day. This animal we esteem a great delicacy, +particularly the tail, which, when boiled, resembles in flavor the +fresh tongues and sounds of the codfish, and is generally so large as to +afford a plentiful meal for two men. One of the hunters, in passing near +an old Indian camp, found several yards of scarlet cloth suspended on +the bough of a tree, as a sacrifice to the deity, by the Assiniboins; +the custom of making these offerings being common among that people, as, +indeed, among all the Indians on the Missouri. The air was sharp this +evening; the water froze on the oars as we rowed.” + +The Assiniboin custom of sacrificing to their deity, or “great +medicine,” the article which they most value themselves, is not by any +means peculiar to that tribe, nor to the Indian race. + +An unusual number of porcupines were seen along here, and these +creatures were so free from wildness that they fed on, undisturbed, +while the explorers walked around and among them. The captains named +a bold and beautiful stream, which here entered the Missouri from the +north,--Porcupine River; but modern geography calls the water-course +Poplar River; at the mouth of the river, in Montana, is now the Poplar +River Indian Agency and military post. The waters of this stream, the +explorers found, were clear and transparent,--an exception to all the +streams, which, discharging into the Missouri, give it its name of the +Big Muddy. The journal adds:-- + +“A quarter of a mile beyond this river a creek falls in on the south, +to which, on account of its distance from the mouth of the Missouri, we +gave the name of Two-thousand-mile creek. It is a bold stream with a bed +thirty yards wide. At three and one-half miles above Porcupine River, +we reached some high timber on the north, and camped just above an +old channel of the river, which is now dry. We saw vast quantities of +buffalo, elk, deer,--principally of the long-tailed kind,--antelope, +beaver, geese, ducks, brant, and some swan. The porcupines too are +numerous, and so careless and clumsy that we can approach very near +without disturbing them, as they are feeding on the young willows. +Toward evening we also found for the first time the nest of a goose +among some driftwood, all that we had hitherto seen being on the top of +a broken tree on the forks, invariably from fifteen to twenty or more +feet in height.” + +“Next day,” May 4, says the journal, “we passed some old Indian +hunting-camps, one of which consisted of two large lodges, fortified +with a circular fence twenty or thirty feet in diameter, made of timber +laid horizontally, the beams overlying each other to the height of five +feet, and covered with the trunks and limbs of trees that have drifted +down the river. The lodges themselves are formed by three or more strong +sticks about the size of a man’s leg or arm and twelve feet long, which +are attached at the top by a withe of small willows, and spread out so +as to form at the base a circle of ten to fourteen feet in diameter. +Against these are placed pieces of driftwood and fallen timber, usually +in three ranges, one on the other; the interstices are covered with +leaves, bark, and straw, so as to form a conical figure about ten feet +high, with a small aperture in one side for the door. It is, however, at +best a very imperfect shelter against the inclemencies of the seasons.” + +Wolves were very abundant along the route of the explorers, the +most numerous species being the common kind, now known as the coyote +(pronounced kyote), and named by science the canis latrans. These +animals are cowardly and sly creatures, of an intermediate size between +the fox and dog, very delicately formed, fleet and active. + +“The ears are large, erect, and pointed; the head is long and pointed, +like that of the fox; the tail long and bushy; the hair and fur are of a +pale reddish-brown color, though much coarser than that of the fox; the +eye is of a deep sea-green color, small and piercing; the talons are +rather longer than those of the wolf of the Atlantic States, which +animal, as far as we can perceive, is not to be found on this side of +the Platte. These wolves usually associate in bands of ten or twelve, +and are rarely, if ever, seen alone, not being able, singly, to attack a +deer or antelope. They live and rear their young in burrows, which they +fix near some pass or spot much frequented by game, and sally out in a +body against any animal which they think they can overpower; but on the +slightest alarm retreat to their burrows, making a noise exactly like +that of a small dog. + +“A second species is lower, shorter in the legs, and thicker than the +Atlantic wolf; the color, which is not affected by the seasons, is of +every variety of shade, from a gray or blackish-brown to a cream-colored +white. They do not burrow, nor do they bark, but howl; they frequent the +woods and plains, and skulk along the skirts of the buffalo herds, in +order to attack the weary or wounded.” + +Under date of May 5, the journal has an interesting story of an +encounter with a grizzly bear, which, by way of variety, is here called +“brown,” instead of “white.” It is noticeable that the explorers dwelt +with much minuteness upon the peculiar characteristics of the grizzly; +this is natural enough when we consider that they were the first white +men to form an intimate acquaintance with “Ursus horribilis.” The +account says:-- + +“Captain Clark and one of the hunters met, this evening, the largest +brown bear we have seen. As they fired he did not attempt to attack, +but fled with a most tremendous roar; and such was his extraordinary +tenacity of life, that, although he had five balls passed through his +lungs, and five other wounds, he swam more than half across the river to +a sand-bar, and survived twenty minutes. He weighed between five and six +hundred pounds at least, and measured eight feet seven inches and a half +from the nose to the extremity of the hind feet, five feet ten inches +and a half round the breast, three feet eleven inches round the neck, +one foot eleven inches round the middle of the fore leg, and his claws +five on each foot, were four inches and three-eighths in length. This +animal differs from the common black bear in having his claws much +longer and more blunt; his tail shorter; his hair of a reddish or bay +brown, longer, finer, and more abundant; his liver, lungs, and heart +much larger even in proportion to his size, the heart, particularly, +being equal to that of a large ox; and his maw ten times larger. Besides +fish and flesh, he feeds on roots and every kind of wild fruit.” + +On May 8 the party discovered the largest and most important of the +northern tributaries of the Upper Missouri. The journal thus describes +the stream:-- + +“Its width at the entrance is one hundred and fifty yards; on going +three miles up, Captain Lewis found it to be of the same breadth and +sometimes more; it is deep, gentle, and has a large quantity of water; +its bed is principally of mud; the banks are abrupt, about twelve +feet in height, and formed of a dark, rich loam and blue clay; the +low grounds near it are wide and fertile, and possess a considerable +proportion of cottonwood and willow. It seems to be navigable for boats +and canoes; by this circumstance, joined to its course and quantity of +water, which indicates that it passes through a large extent of +country, we are led to presume that it may approach the Saskaskawan +(Saskatchewan) and afford a communication with that river. The water has +a peculiar whiteness, such as might be produced by a tablespoonful of +milk in a dish of tea, and this circumstance induced us to call it Milk +River.” + +Modern geography shows that the surmise of Captain Lewis was correct. +Some of the tributaries of Milk River (the Indian name of which +signifies “The River that Scolds at all Others”) have their rise near +St. Mary’s River, which is one of the tributaries of the Saskatchewan, +in British America. + +The explorers were surprised to find the bed of a dry river, as deep and +as wide as the Missouri itself, about fifteen miles above Milk River. +Although it had every appearance of a water-course, it did not discharge +a drop of water. Their journal says:-- + +“It passes through a wide valley without timber; the surrounding country +consists of waving low hills, interspersed with some handsome level +plains; the banks are abrupt, and consist of a black or yellow clay, +or of a rich sandy loam; though they do not rise more than six or eight +feet above the bed, they exhibit no appearance of being overflowed; the +bed is entirely composed of a light brown sand, the particles of which, +like those of the Missouri, are extremely fine. Like the dry rivers we +passed before, this seemed to have discharged its waters recently, but +the watermark indicated that its greatest depth had not been more than +two feet. This stream, if it deserve the name, we called Bigdry (Big +Dry) River.” + +And Big Dry it remains on the maps unto this day. In this region the +party recorded this observation:-- + +“The game is now in great quantities, particularly the elk and buffalo, +which last is so gentle that the men are obliged to drive them out +of the way with sticks and stones. The ravages of the beaver are very +apparent; in one place the timber was entirely prostrated for a space of +three acres in front on the river and one in depth, and great part of it +removed, though the trees were in large quantities, and some of them as +thick as the body of a man.” + +Yet so great have been the ravages of man among these gentle creatures, +that elk are now very rarely found in the region, and the buffalo have +almost utterly disappeared from the face of the earth. Just after +the opening of the Northern Pacific Railway, in 1883, a band of sixty +buffaloes were heard of, far to the southward of Bismarck, and a party +was organized to hunt them. The _bold_ hunters afterwards boasted that +they killed every one of this little band of survivors of their race. + +The men were now (in the middle of May) greatly troubled with boils, +abscesses, and inflamed eyes, caused by the poison of the alkali that +covered much of the ground and corrupted the water. Here is an entry in +the journal of May 11:-- + +“About five in the afternoon one of our men (Bratton), who had been +afflicted with boils and suffered to walk on shore, came running to the +boats with loud cries, and every symptom of terror and distress. For +some time after we had taken him on board he was so much out of breath +as to be unable to describe the cause of his anxiety; but he at length +told us that about a mile and a half below he had shot a brown bear, +which immediately turned and was in close pursuit of him; but the bear +being badly wounded could not overtake him. Captain Lewis, with seven +men, immediately went in search of him; having found his track they +followed him by the blood for a mile, found him concealed in some +thick brushwood, and shot him with two balls through the skull. Though +somewhat smaller than that killed a few days ago, he was a monstrous +animal, and a most terrible enemy. Our man had shot him through the +centre of the lungs; yet he had pursued him furiously for half a +mile, then returned more than twice that distance, and with his talons +prepared himself a bed in the earth two feet deep and five feet long; +he was perfectly alive when they found him, which was at least two hours +after he had received the wound. The wonderful power of life which these +animals possess renders them dreadful; their very track in the mud or +sand, which we have sometimes found eleven inches long and seven and +one-fourth wide, exclusive of the talons, is alarming; and we had rather +encounter two Indians than meet a single brown bear. There is no chance +of killing them by a single shot unless the ball goes through the brain, +and this is very difficult on account of two large muscles which cover +the side of the forehead and the sharp projection of the centre of the +frontal bone, which is also thick. + +“Our camp was on the south, at the distance of sixteen miles from that +of last night. The fleece and skin of the bear were a heavy burden for +two men, and the oil amounted to eight gallons.” + +The name of the badly-scared Bratton was bestowed upon a creek which +discharges into the Missouri near the scene of this encounter. Game +continued to be very abundant. On the fourteenth, according to the +journal, the hunters were hunted, to their great discomfiture. The +account says:-- + +“Toward evening the men in the hindmost canoes discovered a large brown +(grizzly) bear lying in the open grounds, about three hundred paces from +the river. Six of them, all good hunters, immediately went to attack +him, and concealing themselves by a small eminence came unperceived +within forty paces of him. Four of the hunters now fired, and each +lodged a ball in his body, two of them directly through the lungs. The +furious animal sprang up and ran open-mouthed upon them. + +“As he came near, the two hunters who had reserved their fire gave him +two wounds, one of which, breaking his shoulder, retarded his motion +for a moment; but before they could reload he was so near that they +were obliged to run to the river, and before they had reached it he +had almost overtaken them. Two jumped into the canoe; the other four +separated, and, concealing themselves in the willows, fired as fast +as they could reload. They struck him several times, but, instead of +weakening the monster, each shot seemed only to direct him towards the +hunters, till at last he pursued two of them so closely that they threw +aside their guns and pouches, and jumped down a perpendicular bank of +twenty feet into the river: the bear sprang after them, and was within +a few feet of the hindmost, when one of the hunters on shore shot him +in the head, and finally killed him. They dragged him to the shore, and +found that eight balls had passed through him in different directions. +The bear was old, and the meat tough, so that they took the skin only, +and rejoined us at camp, where we had been as much terrified by an +accident of a different kind. + +“This was the narrow escape of one of our canoes, containing all our +papers, instruments, medicine, and almost every article indispensable +for the success of our enterprise. The canoe being under sail, a sudden +squall of wind struck her obliquely and turned her considerably. The man +at the helm, who was unluckily the worst steersman of the party, became +alarmed, and, instead of putting her before the wind, luffed her up into +it. The wind was so high that it forced the brace of the square-sail +out of the hand of the man who was attending it, and instantly upset the +canoe, which would have been turned bottom upward but for the resistance +made by the awning. Such was the confusion on board, and the waves ran +so high, that it was half a minute before she righted, and then nearly +full of water, but by bailing her out she was kept from sinking until +they rowed ashore. Besides the loss of the lives of three men, who, not +being able to swim, would probably have perished, we should have been +deprived of nearly everything necessary for our purposes, at a distance +of between two and three thousand miles from any place where we could +supply the deficiency.” + +Fortunately, there was no great loss from this accident, which was +caused by the clumsiness and timidity of the steersman, Chaboneau. +Captain Lewis’s account of the incident records that the conduct of +Chaboneau’s wife, Sacajawea, was better than that of her cowardly +husband. He says:-- + +“The Indian woman, to whom I ascribe equal fortitude and resolution with +any person on board at the time of the accident, caught and preserved +most of the light articles which were washed overboard.” + + + + +Chapter IX -- In the Solitudes of the Upper Missouri + +Under date of May 17, the journal of the party has the following +interesting entries:-- + +“We set out early and proceeded on very well; the banks being firm and +the shore bold, we were enabled to use the towline, which, whenever +the banks will permit it, is the safest and most expeditious mode of +ascending the river, except under sail with a steady breeze. At the +distance of ten and one-half miles we came to the mouth of a small creek +on the south, below which the hills approach the river, and continue +near it during the day. Three miles further is a large creek on the +north; and again, six and three-quarters miles beyond this, is another +large creek, to the south; both containing a small quantity of running +water, of a brackish taste. The last we called Rattlesnake Creek, from +our seeing that animal near it. Although no timber can be observed on +it from the Missouri, it throws out large quantities of driftwood, among +which were some pieces of coal brought down by the stream. . . . + +“The game is in great quantities, but the buffalo are not so numerous as +they were some days ago; two rattlesnakes were seen to-day, and one of +them was killed. It resembles those of the Middle Atlantic States, being +about thirty inches long, of a yellowish brown on the back and sides, +variegated with a row of oval dark brown spots lying transversely on the +back from the neck to the tail, and two other rows of circular spots of +the same color on the sides along the edge of the scuta; there are one +hundred and seventy-six scuta on the belly, and seventeen on the tail.” + +Two days later, the journal records that one of the party killed a +grizzly bear, “which, though shot through the heart, ran at his usual +pace nearly a quarter of a mile before he fell.” + +The mouth of the Musselshell River, which was one of the notable points +that marked another stage in the journey, was reached on the twentieth +of May. This stream empties into the Missouri two thousand two hundred +and seventy miles above its mouth, and is still known by the name given +it by its discoverers. The journal says: + +“It is one hundred and ten yards wide, and contains more water than +streams of that size usually do in this country; its current is by no +means rapid, and there is every appearance of its being susceptible of +navigation by canoes for a considerable distance. Its bed is chiefly +formed of coarse sand and gravel, with an occasional mixture of black +mud; the banks are abrupt and nearly twelve feet high, so that they are +secure from being overflowed; the water is of a greenish-yellow cast, +and much more transparent than that of the Missouri, which itself, +though clearer than below, still retains its whitish hue and a portion +of its sediment. Opposite the point of junction the current of the +Missouri is gentle, and two hundred and twenty-two yards in width; +the bed is principally of mud, the little sand remaining being wholly +confined to the points, and the water is still too deep to use the +setting-pole. + +“If this be, as we suppose, the Musselshell, our Indian information is +that it rises in the first chain of the Rocky mountains not far from the +sources of the Yellowstone, whence in its course to this place it waters +a high broken country, well timbered, particularly on its borders, and +interspersed with handsome fertile plains and meadows. We have reason, +however, to believe, from their giving a similar account of the timber +where we now are, that the timber of which they speak is similar to that +which we have seen for a few days past, which consists of nothing more +than a few straggling small pines and dwarf cedars on the summits of the +hills, nine-tenths of the ground being totally destitute of wood, and +covered with short grass, aromatic herbs, and an immense quantity +of prickly-pear; though the party who explored it for eight miles +represented the low grounds on the river to be well supplied with +cottonwood of a tolerable size, and of an excellent soil. They also +report that the country is broken and irregular, like that near our +camp; and that about five miles up, a handsome river, about fifty +yards wide, which we named after Chaboneau’s wife, Sacajawea’s or the +Bird-woman’s River, discharges into the Musselshell on the north or +upper side.” + +Later explorations have shown that the Musselshell rises in the +Little Belt Mountains, considerably to the north of the sources of the +Yellowstone. Modern geography has also taken from the good Sacajawea +the honor of having her name bestowed on one of the branches of the +Musselshell. The stream once named for her is now known as Crooked +Creek: it joins the river near its mouth, in the central portion of +Montana. The journal, under date of May 22, has this entry:-- + +“The river (the Missouri) continues about two hundred and fifty yards +wide, with fewer sand-bars, and the current more gentle and regular. +Game is no longer in such abundance since leaving the Musselshell. We +have caught very few fish on this side of the Mandans, and these were +the white catfish, of two to five pounds. We killed a deer and a bear. +We have not seen in this quarter the black bear, common in the United +States and on the lower parts of the Missouri, nor have we discerned any +of their tracks. They may easily be distinguished by the shortness of +the talons from the brown, grizzly, or white bear, all of which seem to +be of the same species, which assumes those colors at different seasons +of the year. We halted earlier than usual, and camped on the north, in a +point of woods, at the distance of sixteen and one half miles (thus past +the site of Fort Hawley, on the south).” + +Notwithstanding the advance of the season, the weather in those great +altitudes grew more and more cold. Under date of May 23, the journal +records the fact that ice appeared along the edges of the river, and +water froze upon their oars. But notwithstanding the coolness of the +nights and mornings, mosquitoes were very troublesome. + +The explorers judged that the cold was somewhat unusual for that +locality, inasmuch as the cottonwood trees lost their leaves by the +frost, showing that vegetation, generally well suited to the temperature +of its country, or habitat, had been caught by an unusual nip of the +frost. The explorers noticed that the air of those highlands was so pure +and clear that objects appeared to be much nearer than they really were. +A man who was sent out to explore the country attempted to reach a ridge +(now known as the Little Rocky Mountains), apparently about fifteen +miles from the river. He travelled about ten miles, but finding himself +not halfway to the object of his search, he returned without reaching +it. + +The party was now just westward of the site of the present town of +Carroll, Montana, on the Missouri. Their journal says:-- + +“The low grounds are narrow and without timber; the country is high and +broken; a large portion of black rock and brown sandy rock appears in +the face of the hills, the tops of which are covered with scattered +pine, spruce, and dwarf cedar; the soil is generally poor, sandy near +the tops of the hills, and nowhere producing much grass, the low grounds +being covered with little else than the hyssop, or southernwood, and the +pulpy-leaved thorn. Game is more scarce, particularly beaver, of which +we have seen but few for several days, and the abundance or scarcity +of which seems to depend on the greater or less quantity of timber. At +twenty-four and one-half miles we reached a point of woodland on the +south, where we observed that the trees had no leaves, and camped for +the night.” + +The “hyssop, or southernwood,” the reader now knows to be the wild sage, +or sage-brush. The “pulpy-leaved thorn” mentioned in the journal is the +greasewood; and both of these shrubs flourish in the poverty-stricken, +sandy, alkaline soil of the far West and Northwest. The woody fibre of +these furnished the only fuel available for early overland emigrants to +the Pacific. + +The character of this country now changed considerably as the explorers +turned to the northward, in their crooked course, with the river. On the +twenty-fifth of May the journal records this:-- + +“The country on each side is high, broken, and rocky; the rock being +either a soft brown sandstone, covered with a thin stratum of limestone, +or else a hard, black, rugged granite, both usually in horizontal +strata, and the sand-rock overlaying the other. Salts and quartz, as +well as some coal and pumice-stone, still appear. The bars of the river +are composed principally of gravel; the river low grounds are narrow, +and afford scarcely any timber; nor is there much pine on the hills. The +buffalo have now become scarce; we saw a polecat (skunk) this evening, +which was the first for several days; in the course of the day we also +saw several herds of the bighorned animals among the steep cliffs on the +north, and killed several of them.” + +The bighorned animals, the first of which were killed here, were +sometimes called “Rocky Mountain sheep.” But sheep they were not, +bearing hair and not wool. As we have said, they are now more commonly +known as bighorns. + +The patience of the explorers was rewarded, on Sunday, May 26, 1806, by +their first view of the Rocky Mountains. Here is the journal’s record on +that date:-- + +“It was here (Cow Creek, Mont.) that, after ascending the highest summit +of the hills on the north side of the river, Captain Lewis first caught +a distant view of the Rock mountains--the object of all our hopes, and +the reward of all our ambition. On both sides of the river, and at no +great distance from it, the mountains followed its course. Above these +at the distance of fifty miles from us, an irregular range of mountains +spread from west to northwest from his position. To the north of these, +a few elevated points, the most remarkable of which bore N. 65'0 W., +appeared above the horizon; and as the sun shone on the snows of their +summits, he obtained a clear and satisfactory view of those mountains +which close on the Missouri the passage to the Pacific.” + +As they continued to ascend the Missouri they found themselves +confronted by many considerable rapids which sometimes delayed their +progress. They also set forth this observation: “The only animals we +have observed are the elk, the bighorn, and the hare common to +this country.” Wayfarers across the plains now call this hare the +jack-rabbit. The river soon became very rapid with a marked descent, +indicating their nearness to its mountain sources. The journal says:-- + +“Its general width is about two hundred yards; the shoals are more +frequent, and the rocky points at the mouths of the gullies more +troublesome to pass. Great quantities of stone lie in the river and on +its bank, and seem to have fallen down as the rain washed away the clay +and sand in which they were imbedded. The water is bordered by high, +rugged bluffs, composed of irregular but horizontal strata of yellow +and brown or black clay, brown and yellowish-white sand, soft +yellowish-white sandstone, and hard dark brown freestone; also, large +round kidney-formed irregular separate masses of a hard black ironstone, +imbedded in the clay and sand; some coal or carbonated wood also +makes its appearance in the cliffs, as do its usual attendants, the +pumice-stone and burnt earth. The salts and quartz are less abundant, +and, generally speaking, the country is, if possible, more rugged and +barren than that we passed yesterday; the only growth of the hills being +a few pine, spruce, and dwarf cedar, interspersed with an occasional +contrast, once in the course of some miles, of several acres of level +ground, which supply a scanty subsistence for a few little cottonwoods.” + +But, a few days later, the party passed out of this inhospitable region, +and, after passing a stream which they named Thompson’s (now Birch) +Creek, after one of their men, they were glad to make this entry in +their diary: + +“Here the country assumed a totally different aspect: the hills retired +on both sides from the river, which spreads to more than three times +its former size, and is filled with a number of small handsome islands +covered with cottonwood. The low grounds on its banks are again wide, +fertile, and enriched with trees: those on the north are particularly +wide, the hills being comparatively low, and opening into three large +valleys, which extend themselves for a considerable distance towards the +north. These appearances of vegetation are delightful after the dreary +hills among which we have passed; and we have now to congratulate +ourselves at having escaped from the last ridges of the Black Mountains. +On leaving Thompson’s Creek we passed two small islands, and at +twenty-three miles’ distance encamped among some timber; on the north, +opposite to a small creek, which we named Bull Creek. The bighorn are +in great quantities, and must bring forth their young at a very early +season, as they are now half grown. One of the party saw a large bear +also; but, being at a distance from the river, and having no timber to +conceal him, he would not venture to fire.” + +A curious adventure happened on the twenty-eighth, of which the journal, +next day, makes this mention:-- + +“Last night we were alarmed by a new sort of enemy. A buffalo swam over +from the opposite side, and to the spot where lay one of our canoes, +over which he clambered to the shore: then, taking fright, he ran full +speed up the bank towards our fires, and passed within eighteen inches +of the heads of some of the men before the sentinel could make him +change his course. Still more alarmed, he ran down between four fires, +and within a few inches of the heads of a second row of the men, and +would have broken into our lodge if the barking of the dog had not +stopped him. He suddenly turned to the right, and was out of sight in +a moment, leaving us all in confusion, every one seizing his rifle and +inquiring the cause of the alarm. On learning what had happened, we had +to rejoice at suffering no more injury than some damage to the guns that +were in the canoe which the buffalo crossed. . . . + +“We passed an island and two sand-bars, and at the distance of two +and a half miles came to a handsome river, which discharges itself on +the South, and which we ascended to the distance of a mile and a half: +we called it Judith’s River. It rises in the Rocky Mountains, in about +the same place with the Musselshell, and near the Yellowstone River. Its +entrance is one hundred yards wide from one bank to the other, the water +occupying about seventy-five yards, and being in greater quantity than +that of the Musselshell River. . . . There were great numbers of the +argalea, or bighorned animals, in the high country through which it +passes, and of beaver in its waters. Just above the entrance of it we +saw the ashes of the fires of one hundred and twenty-six lodges, which +appeared to have been deserted about twelve or fifteen days.” + +Leaving Judith’s River, named for a sweet Virginia lass, the explorers +sailed, or were towed, seventeen miles up the river, where they camped +at the mouth of a bold, running river to which they gave the name +of Slaughter River. The stream is now known as the Arrow; the +appropriateness of the title conferred on the stream by Lewis and Clark +appears from the story which they tell of their experience just below +“Slaughter River,” as follows: + +“On the north we passed a precipice about one hundred and twenty feet +high, under which lay scattered the fragments of at least one hundred +carcasses of buffaloes, although the water which had washed away the +lower part of the hill must have carried off many of the dead. These +buffaloes had been chased down the precipice in a way very common on +the Missouri, by which vast herds are destroyed in a moment. The mode of +hunting is to select one of the most active and fleet young men, who is +disguised by a buffalo-skin round his body; the skin of the head with +the ears and horns being fastened on his own head in such a way as to +deceive the buffalo. Thus dressed, he fixes himself at a convenient +distance between a herd of buffalo and any of the river precipices, +which sometimes extend for some miles. His companions in the mean +time get in the rear and side of the herd, and at a given signal show +themselves and advance toward the buffaloes. These instantly take +the alarm, and finding the hunters beside them, they run toward the +disguised Indian or decoy, who leads them on at full speed toward the +river; when, suddenly securing himself in some crevice of the cliff +which he had previously fixed on, the herd is left on the brink of the +precipice. It is then in vain for the foremost buffaloes to retreat or +even to stop; they are pressed on by the hindmost rank, which, seeing +no danger but from the hunters, goad on those before them till the +whole are precipitated, and the shore is strewn with their dead bodies. +Sometimes, in this perilous seduction, the Indian is himself either +trodden under foot by the rapid movements of the buffaloes, or missing +his footing in the cliff is urged down the precipice by the falling +herd. The Indians then select as much meat as they wish; the rest is +abandoned to the wolves, and creates a most dreadful stench. The wolves +which had been feasting on these carcasses were very fat, and so gentle +that one of them was killed with an espontoon.” (1) + + + (1) A short spear. + + +The dryness and purity of the air roused the admiration of the +explorers, who noticed that the woodwork of the cases of their +instruments shrank, and the joints opened, although the wood was old and +perfectly seasoned. A tablespoonful of water, exposed to the air in +an open saucer, would wholly evaporate in thirty-six hours, when the +thermometer did not mark higher than the “Temperate” point at the +warmest hour of the day. Contrary to their expectations, they had not +yet met with any Indians, although they saw many signs of their having +recently been in that vicinity. The journal says: + +“In the course of the day (May 30) we passed several encampments of +Indians, the most recent of which seemed to have been evacuated about +five weeks since; and, from the several apparent dates, we supposed +that they were formed by a band of about one hundred lodges, who were +travelling slowly up the river. Although no part of the Missouri from +the Minnetarees to this place exhibits signs of permanent settlements, +yet none seem exempt from the transient visits of hunting-parties. We +know that the Minnetarees of the Missouri extend their excursions on the +south side of the river as high as the Yellowstone, and the Assiniboins +visit the northern side, most probably as high as Porcupine River. All +the lodges between that place and the Rocky Mountains we supposed to +belong to the Minnetarees of Fort de Prairie, who live on the south fork +of the Saskashawan.” + +The party now entered upon some of the natural wonders of the West, +which have since become famous. Their journal says:-- + +“These hills and river-cliffs exhibit a most extraordinary and romantic +appearance. They rise in most places nearly perpendicular from the +water, to the height of between two hundred and three hundred feet, and +are formed of very white sandstone, so soft as to yield readily to the +impression of water, in the upper part of which lie imbedded two or +three thin horizontal strata of white freestone, insensible to the rain; +on the top is a dark rich loam, which forms a gradually ascending plain, +from a mile to a mile and a half in extent, when the hills again rise +abruptly to the height of about three hundred feet more. In trickling +down the cliffs, the water has worn the soft sandstone into a thousand +grotesque figures, among which, with a little fancy, may be discerned +elegant ranges of freestone buildings, with columns variously +sculptured, and supporting long and elegant galleries, while the +parapets are adorned with statuary. On a nearer approach they represent +every form of elegant ruins--columns, some with pedestals and capitals +entire, others mutilated and prostrate, and some rising pyramidally over +each other till they terminate in a sharp point. These are varied +by niches, alcoves, and the customary appearances of desolated +magnificence. The illusion is increased by the number of martins, which +have built their globular nests in the niches, and hover over these +columns, as in our country they are accustomed to frequent large +stone structures. As we advance there seems no end to the visionary +enchantment which surrounds us. + +“In the midst of this fantastic scenery are vast ranges of walls, which +seem the productions of art, so regular is the workmanship. They rise +perpendicularly from the river, sometimes to the height of one hundred +feet, varying in thickness from one to twelve feet, being as broad at +the top as below. The stones of which they are formed are black, thick, +durable, and composed of a large portion of earth, intermixed and +cemented with a small quantity of sand and a considerable proportion +of talk (talc) or quartz. These stones are almost invariably regular +parallelopipeds of unequal sizes in the wall, but equally deep and +laid regularly in ranges over each other like bricks, each breaking and +covering the interstice of the two on which it rests; but though the +perpendicular interstice be destroyed, the horizontal one extends +entirely through the whole work. The stones are proportioned to the +thickness of the wall in which they are employed, being largest in the +thickest walls. The thinner walls are composed of a single depth of the +parallelopiped, while the thicker ones consist of two or more depths. +These walls pass the river at several places, rising from the water’s +edge much above the sandstone bluffs, which they seem to penetrate; +thence they cross in a straight line, on either side of the river, the +plains, over which they tower to the height of from ten to seventy feet, +until they lose themselves in the second range of hills. Sometimes they +run parallel in several ranges near to each other, sometimes intersect +each other at right angles, and have the appearance of walls of ancient +houses or gardens.” + +The wall-like, canyon formations were charted by Lewis and Clark as “The +Stone Walls.” Their fantastic outlines have been admired and described +by modern tourists, and some of them have been named “Cathedral Rocks,” + “Citadel Rock,” “Hole in the Wall,” and so on. + +Passing out of this wonderful region, the expedition entered upon a more +level country, here and there broken by bluffy formations which extended +along the river, occasionally interspersed with low hills. Their journal +says: + +“In the plains near the river are the choke-cherry, yellow and red +currant bushes, as well as the wild rose and prickly pear, both of which +are now in bloom. From the tops of the river-hills, which are lower than +usual, we enjoyed a delightful view of the rich, fertile plains on +both sides, in many places extending from the river-cliffs to a great +distance back. In these plains we meet, occasionally, large banks of +pure sand, which were driven apparently by the southwest winds and there +deposited. The plains are more fertile some distance from the river than +near its banks, where the surface of the earth is very generally +strewed with small pebbles, which appear to be smoothed and worn by the +agitation of the waters with which they were, no doubt, once covered.” + +Under date of June 2d, the journal says:-- + +“The current of the river is strong but regular, the timber increases +in quantity, the low grounds become more level and extensive, and the +bluffs are lower than before. As the game is very abundant, we think +it necessary to begin a collection of hides for the purpose of making +a leathern boat, which we intend constructing shortly. The hunters, who +were out the greater part of the day, brought in six elk, two buffalo, +two mule-deer, and a bear. This last animal had nearly cost us the lives +of two of our hunters, who were together when he attacked them. One +of them narrowly escaped being caught, and the other, after running +a considerable distance, concealed himself in some thick bushes, and, +while the bear was in quick pursuit of his hiding-place, his companion +came up, and fortunately shot the animal through the head.” + +Here the party came to the mouth of a large river which entered the +Missouri from the northwest, at the site of the latter-day town of +Ophir, Montana. This stream they named Maria’s River, in honor of +another Virginia damsel. So large and important in appearance was +Maria’s River that the explorers were not certain which was the main +stream, that which came in from the north, or that which, flowing here +in a general course from southwest to northeast, was really the true +Missouri. The journal says: + +“It now became an interesting question, which of these two streams is +what the Minnetarees call Ahmateahza, or Missouri, which they describe +as approaching very near to the Columbia. On our right decision much +of the fate of the expedition depends; since if, after ascending to the +Rocky Mountains or beyond them, we should find that the river we were +following did not come near the Columbia, and be obliged to return, we +should not only lose the travelling season, two months of which have +already elapsed, but probably dishearten the men so much as to induce +them either to abandon the enterprise, or yield us a cold obedience, +instead of the warm and zealous support which they have hitherto +afforded us. We determined, therefore, to examine well before we decided +on our future course. For this purpose we despatched two canoes with +three men up each of the streams, with orders to ascertain the width, +depth, and rapidity of the current, so as to judge of their comparative +bodies of water. At the same time parties were sent out by land +to penetrate the country, and discover from the rising grounds, if +possible, the distant bearings of the two rivers; and all were directed +to return toward evening. . . .” + +Both parties returned without bringing any information that would settle +the point. Which was the true Missouri still remained uncertain. Under +these circumstances, it became necessary that there should be a more +thorough exploration, and the next morning Captains Lewis and Clark +set out at the head of two separate parties, the former to examine the +north, and the latter the south fork. In his progress Captain Lewis and +his party were frequently obliged to quit the course of the river and +cross the plains and hills, but he did not lose sight of its general +direction, and carefully took the bearings of the distant mountains. On +the morning of the third day he became convinced that this river pursued +a course too far north for his contemplated route to the Pacific, and he +accordingly determined to return, but judged it advisable to wait till +noon, that he might obtain a meridian altitude. In this, however, he was +disappointed, owing to the state of the weather. Much rain had fallen, +and their return was somewhat difficult, and not unattended with danger, +as the following incident, which occurred on June 7th, will show: + +“In passing along the side of a bluff at a narrow pass thirty yards +in length, Captain Lewis slipped, and, but for a fortunate recovery by +means of his spontoon, would have been precipitated into the river over +a precipice of about ninety feet. He had just reached a spot where, by +the assistance of his spontoon, he could stand with tolerable safety, +when he heard a voice behind him cry out, ‘Good God, captain, what shall +I do?’ He turned instantly, and found it was Windsor, who had lost his +foothold about the middle of the narrow pass, and had slipped down to +the very verge of the precipice, where he lay on his belly, with his +right arm and leg over it, while with the other leg and arm he was +with difficulty holding on, to keep himself from being dashed to pieces +below. His dreadful situation was instantly perceived by Captain Lewis, +who, stifling his alarm, calmly told him that he was in no danger; that +he should take his knife out of his belt with his right hand, and dig +a hole in the side of the bluff to receive his right foot. With great +presence of mind he did this, and then raised himself on his knees. +Captain Lewis then told him to take off his moccasins and come forward +on his hands and knees, holding the knife in one hand and his rifle in +the other. He immediately crawled in this way till he came to a secure +spot. The men who had not attempted this passage were ordered to return +and wade the river at the foot of the bluff, where they found the water +breast-high. This adventure taught them the danger of crossing the +slippery heights of the river; but as the plains were intersected by +deep ravines, almost as difficult to pass, they continued down the +river, sometimes in the mud of the low grounds, sometimes up to their +arms in the water; and when it became too deep to wade, they cut +footholds with their knives in the sides of the banks. In this way +they travelled through the rain, mud, and water, and having made only +eighteen miles during the whole day, camped in an old Indian lodge of +sticks, which afforded them a dry shelter. Here they cooked part of six +deer they had killed in the course of their walk, and having eaten the +only morsel they had tasted during the whole day, slept comfortably on +some willow-boughs.” + + + + +Chapter X -- To the Great Falls of the Missouri + +Next day, June 8, the Lewis party returned to the main body of the +expedition. They reported that timber was scarce along the river, except +in the lowlands, where there were pretty groves and thickets. These +trees, the journal says, were the haunts of innumerable birds, which, as +the sun rose, sung delightfully:-- + +“Among these birds they distinguished the brown thrush, robin, +turtle-dove, linnet, gold-finch, large and small blackbird, wren, and +some others. As they came along, the whole party were of opinion +that this river was the true Missouri; but Captain Lewis, being fully +persuaded that it was neither the main stream, nor that which it +would be advisable to ascend, gave it the name of Maria’s River. +After travelling all day they reached camp about five o’clock in the +afternoon, and found Captain Clark and the party very anxious for their +safety. As they had stayed two days longer than had been expected, and +as Captain Clark had returned at the appointed time, it was feared that +they had met with some accident.” + +As we now know, the stream that came in from the north was that which +is still called Maria’s (or Marais) River, and the so-called branch from +the southwest was the Missouri River. Lewis and Clark, however, were in +the dark as to the relations of the two streams. Which was the parent? +Which was the branch? After pondering all the evidence that could be +collected to bear on the important question, the two captains agreed +that the southern stream was the true Missouri, and the northern stream +was an important branch. The journal says: + +“These observations, which satisfied our minds completely, we +communicated to the party; but every one of them was of a contrary +opinion. Much of their belief depended on Crusatte, an experienced +waterman on the Missouri, who gave it as his decided judgment that the +north fork was the genuine Missouri. The men, therefore, mentioned that, +although they would most cheerfully follow us wherever we should direct, +yet they were afraid that the south fork would soon terminate in the +Rocky Mountains, and leave us at a great distance from the Columbia. In +order that nothing might be omitted which could prevent our falling into +an error, it was agreed that one of us should ascend the southern branch +by land, until we reached either the falls or the mountains. In the +meantime, in order to lighten our burdens as much as possible, we +determined to deposit here one of the pirogues, and all the heavy +baggage which we could possibly spare, as well as some provision, salt, +powder, and tools. This would at once lighten the other boats, and give +them the crew which had been employed on board the pirogue.” + +On the tenth of June, the weather being fair and pleasant, they dried +all their baggage and merchandise and secreted them in places of +deposits, called caches, as follows:-- + +“These deposits--or caches, as they are called by the Missouri +traders--are very common, particularly among those who deal with the +Sioux, as the skins and merchandise will keep perfectly sound for years, +and are protected from robbery. Our cache was built in the usual manner. +In the high plain on the north side of the Missouri, and forty yards +from a steep bluff, we chose a dry situation, and then, describing a +small circle of about twenty inches diameter, removed the sod as gently +and carefully as possible: the hole was then sunk perpendicularly for +a foot deep. It was now worked gradually wider as it descended, till at +length it became six or seven feet deep, shaped nearly like a kettle, +or the lower part of a large still with the bottom somewhat sunk at the +centre. As the earth was dug it was handed up in a vessel, and carefully +laid on a skin or cloth, in which it was carried away and thrown into +the river, so as to leave no trace of it. A floor of three or four +inches in thickness was then made of dry sticks, on which was placed a +hide perfectly dry. The goods, being well aired and dried, were laid on +this floor, and prevented from touching the wall by other dried sticks, +as the merchandise was stowed away. When the hole was nearly full, a +skin was laid over the goods, and on this earth was thrown and beaten +down, until, with the addition of the sod first removed, the whole +was on a level with the ground, and there remained not the slightest +appearance of an excavation. In addition to this, we made another of +smaller dimensions, in which we placed all the baggage, some powder, and +our blacksmith’s tools, having previously repaired such of the tools as +we carry with us that require mending. To guard against accident, we had +two parcelss of lead and powder in the two places. The red pirogue was +drawn up on the middle of a small island, at the entrance of Maria’s +River, and secured, by being fastened to the trees, from the effects of +any floods. We now took another observation of the meridian altitude of +the sun, and found that the mean latitude of Maria’s River, as deduced +from three observations, is 49'0 25’ 17.2” N.” + +In order to make assurance doubly sure, Captain Lewis resolved to +take four men with him and ascend the south branch (that is, the true +Missouri), before committing the expedition to that route as the final +one. His proposition was that his party should proceed up the river as +rapidly as possible in advance of the main party. On the second day out, +says the journal:-- + +“Captain Lewis left the bank of the river in order to avoid the steep +ravines, which generally run from the shore to the distance of one or +two miles in the plain. Having reached the open country he went for +twelve miles in a course a little to the W. of S.W.; when, the sun +becoming warm by nine o’clock, he returned to the river in quest of +water, and to kill something for breakfast; there being no water in +the plain, and the buffalo, discovering them before they came within +gunshot, took to flight. They reached the banks in a handsome open low +ground with cottonwood, after three miles’ walk. Here they saw two large +brown bears, and killed them both at the first fire--a circumstance +which has never before occurred since we have seen that animal. Having +made a meal of a part, and hung the remainder on a tree, with a note for +Captain Clark, they again ascended the bluffs into the open plains. +Here they saw great numbers of the burrowing-squirrel, also some wolves, +antelopes, mule-deer, and vast herds of buffalo. They soon crossed a +ridge considerably higher than the surrounding plains, and from its top +had a beautiful view of the Rocky Mountains, which are now completely +covered with snow. Their general course is from S.E. to N. of N.W., and +they seem to consist of several ranges which successively rise above +each other, till the most distant mingles with the clouds. After +travelling twelve miles they again met the river, where there was a +handsome plain of cottonwood.” + +Again leaving the river, Captain Lewis bore off more to the north, the +stream here bearing considerably to the south, with difficult bluffs +along its course. But fearful of passing the Great Falls before reaching +the Rocky Mountains, he again changed his course and, leaving the bluffs +to his right he turned towards the river. + +The journal gives this description of what followed:-- + +“In this direction Captain Lewis had gone about two miles, when his +ears were saluted with the agreeable sound of a fall of water, and as he +advanced a spray, which seemed driven by the high southwest wind, arose +above the plain like a column of smoke, and vanished in an instant. +Toward this point he directed his steps; the noise increased as he +approached, and soon became too tremendous to be mistaken for anything +but the Great Falls of the Missouri. Having travelled seven miles after +first hearing the sound, he reached the falls about twelve o’clock. The +hills as he approached were difficult of access and two hundred feet +high. Down these he hurried with impatience; and, seating himself on +some rocks under the centre of the falls, enjoyed the sublime spectacle +of this stupendous object, which since the creation had been lavishing +its magnificence upon the desert, unknown to civilization. + +“The river immediately at this cascade is three hundred yards wide, and +is pressed in by a perpendicular cliff on the left, which rises to about +one hundred feet and extends up the stream for a mile; on the right the +bluff is also perpendicular for three hundred yards above the falls. For +ninety or one hundred yards from the left cliff, the water falls in +one smooth, even sheet, over a precipice of at least eighty feet. +The remaining part of the river precipitates itself with a more rapid +current, but being received as it falls by the irregular and somewhat +projecting rocks below, forms a splendid prospect of perfectly white +foam, two hundred yards in length and eighty in perpendicular elevation. +This spray is dissipated into a thousand shapes, sometimes flying up in +columns of fifteen or twenty feet, which are then oppressed by larger +masses of the white foam, on all of which the sun impresses the +brightest colors of the rainbow. Below the fall the water beats with +fury against a ledge of rocks, which extends across the river at one +hundred and fifty yards from the precipice. From the perpendicular cliff +on the north to the distance of one hundred and twenty yards, the rocks +are only a few feet above the water; and, when the river is high, the +stream finds a channel across them forty yards wide, and near the higher +parts of the ledge, which rise about twenty feet, and terminate abruptly +within eighty or ninety yards of the southern side. Between them and +the perpendicular cliff on the south, the whole body of water runs with +great swiftness. A few small cedars grow near this ridge of rocks, which +serves as a barrier to defend a small plain of about three acres, shaded +with cottonwood; at the lower extremity of which is a grove of the same +trees, where are several deserted Indian cabins of sticks; below which +the river is divided by a large rock, several feet above the surface +of the water, and extending down the stream for twenty yards. At the +distance of three hundred yards from the same ridge is a second abutment +of solid perpendicular rock, about sixty feet high, projecting at right +angles from the small plain on the north for one hundred and thirty-four +yards into the river. After leaving this, the Missouri again spreads +itself to its previous breadth of three hundred yards, though with more +than its ordinary rapidity.” + +One of Lewis’s men was sent back to inform Captain Clark of this +momentous discovery, which finally settled all doubt as to which was +the true Missouri. The famous Great Falls of the river had been finally +reached. Captain Lewis next went on to examine the rapids above the +falls. The journal says:-- + +“After passing one continued rapid and three cascades, each three or +four feet high, he reached, at the distance of five miles, a second +fall. The river is here about four hundred yards wide, and for the +distance of three hundred rushes down to the depth of nineteen feet, and +so irregularly that he gave it the name of the Crooked Falls. From the +southern shore it extends obliquely upward about one hundred and fifty +yards, and then forms an acute angle downward nearly to the commencement +of four small islands close to the northern side. From the perpendicular +pitch to these islands, a distance of more than one hundred yards, the +water glides down a sloping rock with a velocity almost equal to that +of its fall: above this fall the river bends suddenly to the northward. +While viewing this place, Captain Lewis heard a loud roar above him, +and, crossing the point of a hill a few hundred yards, he saw one of the +most beautiful objects in nature: the whole Missouri is suddenly stopped +by one shelving rock, which, without a single niche, and with an edge as +straight and regular as if formed by art, stretches itself from one side +of the river to the other for at least a quarter of a mile. Over this +it precipitates itself in an even, uninterrupted sheet, to the +perpendicular depth of fifty feet, whence, dashing against the rocky +bottom, it rushes rapidly down, leaving behind it a sheet of the +purest foam across the river. The scene which it presented was indeed +singularly beautiful; since, without any of the wild, irregular +sublimity of the lower falls, it combined all the regular elegancies +which the fancy of a painter would select to form a beautiful waterfall. +The eye had scarcely been regaled with this charming prospect, when at +the distance of half a mile Captain Lewis observed another of a similar +kind. To this he immediately hastened, and found a cascade stretching +across the whole river for a quarter of a mile, with a descent of +fourteen feet, though the perpendicular pitch was only six feet. This, +too, in any other neighborhood, would have been an object of great +magnificence; but after what he had just seen, it became of secondary +interest. His curiosity being, however, awakened, he determined to go +on, even should night overtake him, to the head of the falls. + +“He therefore pursued the southwest course of the river, which was one +constant succession of rapids and small cascades, at every one of which +the bluffs grew lower, or the bed of the river became more on a level +with the plains. At the distance of two and one-half miles he arrived +at another cataract, of twenty-six feet. The river is here six hundred +yards wide, but the descent is not immediately perpendicular, though +the river falls generally with a regular and smooth sheet; for about +one-third of the descent a rock protrudes to a small distance, receives +the water in its passage, and gives it a curve. On the south side is a +beautiful plain, a few feet above the level of the falls; on the north, +the country is more broken, and there is a hill not far from the river. +Just below the falls is a little island in the middle of the river, well +covered with timber. Here on a cottonwood tree an eagle had fixed her +nest, and seemed the undisputed mistress of a spot, to contest whose +dominion neither man nor beast would venture across the gulfs that +surround it, and which is further secured by the mist rising from +the falls. This solitary bird could not escape the observation of the +Indians, who made the eagle’s nest a part of their description of the +falls, which now proves to be correct in almost every particular, except +that they did not do justice to the height. + +“Just above this is a cascade of about five feet, beyond which, as +far as could be discerned, the velocity of the water seemed to abate. +Captain Lewis now ascended the hill which was behind him, and saw from +its top a delightful plain, extending from the river to the base of the +Snowy (Rocky) Mountains to the south and southwest. Along this wide, +level country the Missouri pursued its winding course, filled with water +to its smooth, grassy banks, while about four miles above, it was joined +by a large river flowing from the northwest, through a valley three +miles in width, and distinguished by the timber which adorned its +shores. The Missouri itself stretches to the south, in one unruffled +stream of water, as if unconscious of the roughness it must soon +encounter, and bearing on its bosom vast flocks of geese, while numerous +herds of buffalo are feeding on the plains which surround it. + +“Captain Lewis then descended the hill, and directed his course towards +the river falling in from the west. He soon met a herd of at least a +thousand buffalo, and, being desirous of providing for supper, shot one +of them. The animal immediately began to bleed, and Captain Lewis, who +had forgotten to reload his rifle, was intently watching to see him +fall, when he beheld a large brown bear which was stealing on him +unperceived, and was already within twenty steps. In the first moment of +surprise he lifted his rifle; but, remembering instantly that it was not +charged, and that he had no time to reload, he felt that there was no +safety but in flight. It was in the open, level plain; not a bush nor a +tree within three hundred yards; the bank of the river sloping, and +not more than three feet high, so that there was no possible mode of +concealment. Captain Lewis, therefore, thought of retreating with a +quick walk, as fast as the bear advanced, towards the nearest tree; but, +as soon as he turned, the bear rushed open-mouthed, and at full speed, +upon him. Captain Lewis ran about eighty yards, but finding that the +animal gained on him fast, it flashed on his mind that, by getting into +the water to such a depth that the bear would be obliged to attack him +swimming, there was still some chance of his life; he therefore turned +short, plunged into the river about waist-deep, and facing about +presented the point of his espontoon. The bear arrived at the water’s +edge within twenty feet of him; but as soon as he put himself in this +posture of defence, the bear seemed frightened, and wheeling about, +retreated with as much precipitation as he had pursued. Very glad to +be released from this danger, Captain Lewis returned to the shore, +and observed him run with great speed, sometimes looking back as if he +expected to be pursued, till he reached the woods. He could not conceive +the cause of the sudden alarm of the bear, but congratulated himself +on his escape when he saw his own track torn to pieces by the furious +animal, and learned from the whole adventure never to suffer his rifle +to be a moment unloaded.” + +Captain Lewis now resumed his progress towards the western, or Sun, +River, then more commonly known among the Indians as Medicine River. +In going through the lowlands of this stream, he met an animal which he +thought was a wolf, but which was more likely a wolverine, or carcajou. +The journal says:-- + +“It proved to be some brownish yellow animal, standing near its burrow, +which, when he came nigh, crouched, and seemed as if about to spring on +him. Captain Lewis fired, and the beast disappeared in its burrow. From +the track, and the general appearance of the animal, he supposed it +to be of the tiger kind. He then went on; but, as if the beasts of +the forest had conspired against him, three buffalo bulls, which were +feeding with a large herd at the distance of half a mile, left their +companions, and ran at full speed towards him. He turned round, and, +unwilling to give up the field, advanced to meet them: when they were +within a hundred yards they stopped, looked at him for some time, and +then retreated as they came. He now pursued his route in the dark, +reflecting on the strange adventures and sights of the day, which +crowded on his mind so rapidly, that he should have been inclined to +believe it all enchantment if the thorns of the prickly pear, piercing +his feet, had not dispelled at every moment the illusion. He at last +reached the party, who had been very anxious for his safety, and who had +already decided on the route which each should take in the morning to +look for him. Being much fatigued, he supped, and slept well during the +night.” + +On awaking the next morning, Captain Lewis found a large rattlesnake +coiled on the trunk of a tree under which he had been sleeping. He +killed it, and found it like those he had seen before, differing from +those of the Atlantic States, not in its colors, but in the form and +arrangement of them. Information was received that Captain Clark had +arrived five miles below, at a rapid which he did not think it prudent +to ascend, and that he was waiting there for the party above to rejoin +him. + +After the departure of Captain Lewis, Captain Clark had remained a day +at Maria’s River, to complete the deposit of such articles as they could +dispense with, and started on the twelfth of June. + +Four days later, Captain Clark left the river, having sent his messenger +to Captain Lewis, and began to search for a proper portage to convey the +pirogue and canoes across to the Columbia River, leaving most of the +men to hunt, make wheels and draw the canoes up a creek which they named +Portage Creek, as it was to be the base of their future operations. The +stream is now known as Belt Mountain Creek. But the explorers soon +found that although the pirogue was to be left behind, the way was too +difficult for a portage even for canoes. The journal says:-- + +“We found great difficulty and some danger in even ascending the creek +thus far, in consequence of the rapids and rocks of the channel of the +creek, which just above where we brought the canoes has a fall of +five feet, with high steep bluffs beyond it. We were very fortunate in +finding, just below Portage Creek, a cottonwood tree about twenty-two +inches in diameter, large enough to make the carriage-wheels. It was, +perhaps, the only one of the same size within twenty miles; and the +cottonwood which we are obliged to employ in the other parts of the work +is extremely soft and brittle. The mast of the white pirogue, which we +mean to leave behind, supplied us with two axle-trees. + +“There are vast quantities of buffalo feeding on the plains or watering +in the river, which is also strewed with the floating carcasses and +limbs of these animals. They go in large herds to water about the falls, +and as all the passages to the river near that place are narrow and +steep, the foremost are pressed into the river by the impatience of +those behind. In this way we have seen ten or a dozen disappear over +the falls in a few minutes. They afford excellent food for the wolves, +bears, and birds of prey; which circumstance may account for the +reluctance of the bears to yield their dominion over the neighborhood. + +“The pirogue was drawn up a little below our camp, and secured in a +thick copse of willow-bushes. We now began to form a cache or place +of deposit, and to dry our goods and other articles which required +inspection. The wagons are completed. Our hunters brought us ten deer, +and we shot two out of a herd of buffalo that came to water at Sulphur +Spring. There is a species of gooseberry, growing abundantly among the +rocks on the sides of the cliffs. It is now ripe, of a pale red color, +about the size of the common gooseberry, and like it is an ovate +pericarp of soft pulp enveloping a number of small whitish seeds, and +consisting of a yellowish, slimy, mucilaginous substance, with a sweet +taste; the surface of the berry is covered glutinous, adhesive matter, +and its fruit, though ripe, retains its withered corolla. The shrub +itself seldom rises more than two feet high, is much branched, and has +no thorns. The leaves resemble those of the common gooseberry, except +in being smaller, and the berry is supported by separate peduncles or +foot-stalks half an inch long. There are also immense quantities +of grasshoppers, of a brown color, on the plains; they, no doubt, +contribute to the lowness of the grass, which is not generally more than +three inches high, though it is soft, narrow-leaved, and affords a fine +pasture for the buffalo.” + + + + +Chapter XI -- A the Heart of the Continent + +Captain Clark continued his observations up the long series of rapids +and falls until he came to a group of three small islands to which +he gave the name of White Bear Islands, from his having seen numerous +white, or grizzly, bears on them. On the nineteenth of June, Captain +Clark, after a careful survey of the country on both sides of the +stream, decided that the best place for a portage was on the south, or +lower, side of the river, the length of the portage being estimated +to be about eighteen miles, over which the canoes and supplies must +be carried. Next day he proceeded to mark out the exact route of the +portage, or carry, by driving stakes along its lines and angles. From +the survey and drawing which he made, the party now had a clear and +accurate view of the falls, cascades, and rapids of the Missouri; and, +it may be added, this draught, which is reproduced on another page +of this book, is still so correct in all its measurements that when a +Montana manufacturing company undertook to build a dam at Black Eagle +Falls, nearly one hundred years afterwards, they discovered that their +surveys and those of Captain Clark were precisely alike. The total fall +of the river, from the White Bear Islands, as Lewis and Clark called +them, to the foot of the Great Falls, is four hundred twelve and +five-tenths feet; the sheer drop of the Great Fall is seventy-five and +five-tenths feet. The wild, trackless prairie of Lewis and Clark’s +time is now the site of the thriving town of Great Falls, which has a +population of ten thousand. + +Here is a lucid and connected account of the falls and rapids, +discovered and described by Lewis and Clark: + +“This river is three hundred yards wide at the point where it +receives the waters of Medicine (Sun) River, which is one hundred and +thirty-seven yards in width. The united current continues three hundred +and twenty-eight poles to a small rapid on the north side, from which it +gradually widens to fourteen hundred yards, and at the distance of five +hundred and forty-eight poles reaches the head of the rapids, narrowing +as it approaches them. Here the hills on the north, which had withdrawn +from the bank, closely border the river, which, for the space of three +hundred and twenty poles, makes its way over the rocks, with a descent +of thirty feet. In this course the current is contracted to five hundred +and eighty yards, and after throwing itself over a small pitch of five +feet, forms a beautiful cascade of twenty-six feet five inches; this +does not, however, fall immediately or perpendicularly, being stopped by +a part of the rock, which projects at about one-third of the distance. +After descending this fall, and passing the cottonwood island on which +the eagle has fixed her nest, the river goes on for five hundred and +thirty-two poles over rapids and little falls, the estimated descent +of which is thirteen and one-half feet, till it is joined by a large +fountain boiling up underneath the rocks near the edge of the river, +into which it falls with a cascade of eight feet. The water of this +fountain is of the most perfect clearness, and of rather a bluish cast; +and, even after falling into the Missouri, it preserves its color +for half a mile. From the fountain the river descends with increased +rapidity for the distance of two hundred and fourteen poles, during +which the estimated descent is five feet; and from this, for a distance +of one hundred and thirty-five poles, it descends fourteen feet seven +inches, including a perpendicular fall of six feet seven inches. +The Missouri has now become pressed into a space of four hundred and +seventy-three yards, and here forms a grand cataract, by falling over +a plain rock the whole distance across the river, to the depth of +forty-seven feet eight inches. After recovering itself, it then proceeds +with an estimated descent of three feet, till, at the distance of +one hundred and two poles, it is precipitated down the Crooked Falls +nineteen feet perpendicular. Below this, at the mouth of a deep ravine, +is a fall of five feet; after which, for the distance of nine hundred +and seventy poles, the descent is much more gradual, not being more than +ten feet, and then succeeds a handsome level plain for the space of one +hundred and seventy-eight poles, with a computed descent of three feet, +the river making a bend towards the north. Thence it descends, for four +hundred and eighty poles, about eighteen and one-half feet, when it +makes a perpendicular fall of two feet, which is ninety poles beyond the +great cataract; in approaching which, it descends thirteen feet within +two hundred yards, and, gathering strength from its confined channel, +which is only two hundred and eighty yards wide, rushes over the fall to +the depth of eighty-seven feet. + +“After raging among the rocks, and losing itself in foam, it is +compressed immediately into a bed of ninety-three yards in width: it +continues for three hundred and forty poles to the entrance of a run or +deep ravine, where there is a fall of three feet, which, added to the +decline during that distance, makes the descent six feet. As it goes +on, the descent within the next two hundred and forty poles is only +four feet; from this, passing a run or deep ravine, the descent in four +hundred poles is thirteen feet; within two hundred and forty poles, +another descent of eighteen feet; thence, in one hundred and sixty +poles, a descent of six feet; after which, to the mouth of Portage +Creek, a distance of two hundred and eighty poles, the descent is +ten feet. From this survey and estimate, it results that the river +experiences a descent of three hundred and fifty-two feet in the +distance of two and three quarter miles, from the commencement of the +rapids to the mouth of Portage Creek, exclusive of the almost impassable +rapids which extend for a mile below its entrance.” + +On the twenty-first of the month, all the needed preparations having +been finished, the arduous work of making the portage, or carry, was +begun. All the members of the expedition were now together, and the two +captains divided with their men the labor of hunting, carrying luggage, +boat-building, exploring, and so on. They made three camps, the lower +one on Portage Creek, the next at Willow Run (see map), and a third at +a point opposite White Bear Islands. The portage was not completed until +July second. They were often delayed by the breaking down of their rude +carriages, and during the last stage of their journey much of their +luggage was carried on the backs of the men. They were also very much +annoyed with the spines of the prickly pear, a species of cactus, +which, growing low on the ground, is certain to be trampled upon by the +wayfarer. The spines ran through the moccasins of the men and sorely +wounded their feet. Thus, under date of June twenty-fourth, the journal +says (It should be understood that the portage was worked from above and +below the rapids):-- + +“On going down yesterday Captain Clark cut off several angles of the +former route, so as to shorten the portage considerably, and marked it +with stakes. He arrived there in time to have two of the canoes carried +up in the high plain, about a mile in advance. Here they all repaired +their moccasins, and put on double soles to protect them from the +prickly pear, and from the sharp points of earth which have been formed +by the trampling of the buffalo during the late rains. This of itself is +sufficient to render the portage disagreeable to one who has no burden; +but as the men are loaded as heavily as their strength will permit, the +crossing is really painful. Some are limping with the soreness of their +feet; others are scarcely able to stand for more than a few minutes, +from the heat and fatigue. They are all obliged to halt and rest +frequently; at almost every stopping-place they fall, and many of them +are asleep in an instant; yet no one complains, and they go on with +great cheerfulness. At the camp, midway in the portage, Drewyer and +Fields joined them; for, while Captain Lewis was looking for them at +Medicine River, they returned to report the absence of Shannon, about +whom they had been very uneasy. They had killed several buffalo at the +bend of the Missouri above the falls, dried about eight hundred pounds +of meat, and got one hundred pounds of tallow; they had also killed some +deer, but had seen no elk.” + +Under this date, too, Captain Lewis, who was with another branch of the +expedition, makes this note: “Such as were able to shake a foot amused +themselves in dancing on the green to the music of the violin which +Cruzatte plays extremely well.” + +The journal continues:-- + +“We were now occupied (at White Bear camp) in fitting up a boat of +skins, the frame of which had been prepared for the purpose at Harper’s +Ferry in Virginia. It was made of iron, thirty-six feet long, four and +one-half feet in the beam, and twenty-six inches wide in the bottom. Two +men had been sent this morning for timber to complete it, but they could +find scarcely any even tolerably straight sticks four and one-half feet +long; and as the cottonwood is too soft and brittle, we were obliged to +use willow and box-elder.” + +On the twenty-seventh, the main party, which was working on the upper +part of the portage, joined that of Captain Clark at the lower camp, +where a second cache, or place of deposit, had been formed, and where +the boat-swivel was now hidden under the rocks. The journal says:-- + +“The party were employed in preparing timber for the boat, except two +who were sent to hunt. About one in the afternoon a cloud arose from +the southwest, and brought with it violent thunder, lightning, and hail. +Soon after it passed, the hunters came in, from about four miles above +us. They had killed nine elk and three bears. As they were hunting on +the river they saw a low ground covered with thick brushwood, where from +the tracks along shore they thought a bear had probably taken refuge. +They therefore landed, without making a noise, and climbed a tree about +twenty feet above the ground. Having fixed themselves securely, they +raised a loud shout, and a bear instantly rushed toward them. These +animals never climb, and therefore when he came to the tree and stopped +to look at them, Drewyer shot him in the head. He proved to be the +largest we had yet seen; his nose appeared to be like that of a common +ox; his fore feet measured nine inches across; the hind feet were seven +inches wide and eleven and three quarters long, exclusive of the talons. +One of these animals came within thirty yards of the camp last night, +and carried off some buffalo-meat which we had placed on a pole.” + +The party were very much annoyed here by the grizzlies which infested +their camp at night. Their faithful dog always gave warning of the +approach of one of these monsters; but the men were obliged to sleep +with their guns by their side, ready to repel the enemy at a moment’s +notice. + +Captain Clark finally broke up the camp on Portage Creek, June 28, +having deposited in his cache whatever could be left behind without +inconvenience. “On the following day,” the journal says:-- + +“Finding it impossible to reach the upper end of the portage with the +present load, in consequence of the state of the road after the rain, he +sent back nearly all his party to bring on the articles which had been +left yesterday. Having lost some notes and remarks which he had made +on first ascending the river, he determined to go up to the Whitebear +Islands along its banks, in order to supply the deficiency. He there +left one man to guard the baggage, and went on to the falls, accompanied +by his servant York, Chaboneau, and his wife with her young child. + +“On his arrival there he observed a very dark cloud rising in the west, +which threatened rain, and looked around for some shelter; but could +find no place where the party would be secure from being blown into the +river, if the wind should prove as violent as it sometimes does in the +plains. At length, about a quarter of a mile above the falls, he found +a deep ravine, where there were some shelving rocks, under which he +took refuge. They were on the upper side of the ravine near the river, +perfectly safe from the rain, and therefore laid down their guns, +compass, and other articles which they carried with them. The shower +was at first moderate; it then increased to a heavy rain, the effects +of which they did not feel; but soon after, a torrent of rain and hail +descended. The rain seemed to fall in a solid mass, and instantly, +collecting in the ravine, came rolling down in a dreadful current, +carrying the mud, rocks, and everything that opposed it. Captain Clark +fortunately saw it a moment before it reached them, and springing up +with his gun and shot-pouch in his left hand, with his right clambered +up the steep bluff, pushing on the Indian woman with her child in her +arms; her husband too had seized her hand and was pulling her tip the +hill, but he was so terrified at the danger that he remained frequently +motionless; and but for Captain Clark, himself and his wife and child +would have been lost. So instantaneous was the rise of the water that, +before Captain Clark had reached his gun and begun to ascend the bank, +the water was up to his waist, and he could scarcely get up faster than +it rose, till it reached the height of fifteen feet, with a furious +current which, had they waited a moment longer, would have swept +them into the river just above the Great Falls, down which they must +inevitably have been precipitated. They reached the plain in safety and +found York, who had separated from them just before the storm to hunt +some buffalo, and was now returning to find his master. They had been +obliged to escape so rapidly that Captain Clark lost his compass (that +is, circumferentor) and umbrella, Chaboneau left his gun, with Captain +Lewis’ wiping-rod, shot-pouch, and tomahawk, and the Indian woman had +just time to grasp her child, before the net in which it lay at her feet +was carried down the current.” + +Such a storm is known in the West as a cloud-burst. Overland emigrants +in the early rush to California often suffered loss from these sudden +deluges. A party of men, with wagons and animals, have been known to +be swept away and lost in a flood bursting in a narrow canyon in the +mountains. + +“Captain Clark now relinquished his intention of going up the river, and +returned to the camp at Willow Run. Here he found that the party +sent this morning for the baggage had all returned to camp in great +confusion, leaving their loads in the plain. On account of the heat, +they generally go nearly naked, and with no covering on their heads. +The hail was so large, and driven so furiously against them by the high +wind, that it knocked several of them down: one of them, particularly, +was thrown on the ground three times, and most of them were bleeding +freely, and complained of being much bruised. Willow Run had risen six +feet since the rain; and, as the plains were so wet that they could not +proceed, they passed the night at their camp. + +“At the White Bear camp, also,” (says Lewis), “we had not been +insensible to the hailstorm, though less exposed. In the morning there +had been a heavy shower of rain, after which it became fair. After +assigning to the men their respective employments, Captain Lewis took +one of them, and went to see the large fountain near the falls. . . . It +is, perhaps, the largest in America, and is situated in a pleasant level +plain, about twenty-five yards from the river, into which it falls over +some steep, irregular rocks, with a sudden ascent of about six feet in +one part of its course. The water boils up from among the rocks, and +with such force near the centre that the surface seems higher there than +the earth on the sides of the fountain, which is a handsome turf of +fine green grass. The water is extremely pure, cold, and pleasant to the +taste, not being impregnated with lime or any foreign substance. It is +perfectly transparent, and continues its bluish cast for half a mile +down the Missouri, notwithstanding the rapidity of the river. After +examining it for some time, Captain Lewis returned to the camp. . . .” + +“Two men were sent (June 30) to the falls to look for the articles +lost yesterday; but they found nothing but the compass, covered with mud +and sand, at the mouth of the ravine. The place at which Captain Clark +had been caught by the storm was filled with large rocks. The men +complain much of the bruises received yesterday from the hail. A +more than usual number of buffalo appeared about the camp to-day, and +furnished plenty of meat. Captain Clark thought that at one view he must +have seen at least ten thousand.” + +Of the party at the upper camp, opposite White Bear Islands, the journal +makes this observation:-- + +“The party continues to be occupied with the boat, the cross-bars for +which are now finished, and there remain only the strips to complete the +woodwork. The skins necessary to cover it have already been prepared; +they amount to twenty-eight elk-skins and four buffalo-skins. Among our +game were two beaver, which we have had occasion to observe are found +wherever there is timber. We also killed a large bull-bat or goatsucker, +of which there are many in this neighborhood, resembling in every +respect those of the same species in the United States. We have not seen +the leather-winged bat for some time, nor are there any of the small +goatsucker in this part of the Missouri. We have not seen that species +of goatsucker called the whippoorwill, which is commonly confounded in +the United States with the large goatsucker which we observe here. +This last prepares no nest, but lays its eggs on the open plains; they +generally begin to sit on two eggs, and we believe raise only one brood +in a season; at the present moment they are just hatching their young.” + +Dr. Coues says that we should bear in mind that this was written “when +bats were birds and whales were fishes for most persons.” The journal +confounds bats, which are winged mammals, with goatsuckers, or +whippoorwills, which are birds. + +The second of July was an interesting date for the explorers. On that +day we find the following entry in their journal:-- + +“A shower of rain fell very early this morning. We then despatched some +men for the baggage left behind yesterday, and the rest were engaged in +putting the boat together. This was accomplished in about three hours, +and then we began to sew on the leather over the crossbars of iron on +the inner side of the boat which form the ends of the sections. By two +o’clock the last of the baggage arrived, to the great delight of +the party, who were anxious to proceed. The mosquitoes we find very +troublesome. + +“Having completed our celestial observations, we went over to the large +island to make an attack upon its inhabitants, the bears, which have +annoyed us very much of late, and were prowling about our camp all last +night. We found that the part of the island frequented by the bears +forms an almost impenetrable thicket of the broad-leaved willow. Into +this we forced our way in parties of three; but could see only one bear, +which instantly attacked Drewyer. Fortunately, as he was rushing on, the +hunter shot him through the heart within twenty paces and he fell, which +enabled Drewyer to get out of his way. We then followed him one hundred +yards, and found that the wound had been mortal. + +“Not being able to discover any more of these animals, we returned +to camp. Here, in turning over some of the baggage, we caught a rat +somewhat larger than the common European rat, and of a lighter color; +the body and outer parts of the legs and head of a light lead color; the +inner side of the legs, as well as the belly, feet, and ears, white; the +ears are not covered with hair, and are much larger than those of the +common rat; the toes also are longer; the eyes are black and prominent, +the whiskers very long and full; the tail is rather longer than the +body, and covered with fine fur and hair of the same size with that on +the back, which is very close, short, and silky in its texture. This was +the first we had met, although its nests are very frequent in the cliffs +of rocks and hollow trees, where we also found large quantities of the +shells and seed of the prickly-pear.” + +The queer rat discovered by Lewis and Clark was then unknown to science. +It is now known in the Far West as the pack-rat. It lives in holes and +crevices of the rocks, and it subsists on the shells and seeds of the +prickly pear, which is usually abundant in the hunting grounds of the +little animal. The explorers were now constantly in full view of the +Rocky Mountain, on which, however, their present title had not then been +conferred. Under date of July 2, the journal says:-- + +“The mosquitoes are uncommonly troublesome. The wind was again high +from the southwest. These winds are in fact always the coldest and most +violent which we experience, and the hypothesis which we have formed +on that subject is, that the air, coming in contact with the Snowy +Mountains, immediately becomes chilled and condensed, and being thus +rendered heavier than the air below, it descends into the rarefied air +below, or into the vacuum formed by the constant action of the sun +on the open unsheltered plains. The clouds rise suddenly near these +mountains, and distribute their contents partially over the neighboring +plains. The same cloud will discharge hail alone in one part, hail and +rain in another, and rain only in a third, all within the space of a few +miles; while at the same time there is snow falling on the mountains +to the southeast of us. There is at present no snow on those mountains; +that which covered them on our arrival, as well as that which has since +fallen, having disappeared. The mountains to the north and northwest +of us are still entirely covered with snow; indeed, there has been no +perceptible diminution of it since we first saw them, which induces a +belief either that the clouds prevailing at this season do not reach +their summits or that they deposit their snow only. They glisten with +great beauty when the sun shines on them in a particular direction, and +most probably from this glittering appearance have derived the name of +the Shining Mountains.” + +A mysterious noise, heard by the party, here engaged their attention, +as it did years afterwards the attention of other explorers. The journal +says:-- + +“Since our arrival at the falls we have repeatedly heard a strange noise +coming from the mountains in a direction a little to the north of west. +It is heard at different periods of the day and night (sometimes when +the air is perfectly still and without a cloud), and consists of one +stroke only, or of five or six discharges in quick succession. It is +loud, and resembles precisely the sound of a six-pound piece of ordnance +at the distance of three miles. The Minnetarees frequently mentioned +this noise, like thunder, which they said the mountains made; but we had +paid no attention to it, believing it to have been some superstition, or +perhaps a falsehood. The watermen also of the party say that the +Pawnees and Ricaras give the same account of a noise heard in the Black +Mountains to the westward of them. The solution of the mystery given by +the philosophy of the watermen is, that it is occasioned by the bursting +of the rich mines of silver confined within the bosom of the mountains.” + +Of these strange noises there are many explanations, the most plausible +being that they are caused by the explosion of the species of stone +known as the geode, fragments of which are frequently found among the +mountains. The geode has a hollow cell within, lined with beautiful +crystals of many colors. + +Independence Day, 1805, was celebrated with becoming patriotism and +cheerfulness by these far-wandering adventurers. Their record says:-- + +“An elk and a beaver are all that were killed to-day; the buffalo seem +to have withdrawn from our neighborhood, though several of the men, who +went to-day to visit the falls for the first time, mention that they +are still abundant at that place. We contrived, however, to spread not +a very sumptuous but a comfortable table in honor of the day, and in +the evening gave the men a drink of spirits, which was the last of our +stock. Some of them appeared sensible to the effects of even so small +a quantity; and as is usual among them on all festivals, the fiddle was +produced and a dance begun, which lasted till nine o’clock, when it was +interrupted by a heavy shower of rain. They continued their merriment, +however, till a late hour.” + +Their bill-of-fare, according to Captain Lewis, was bacon, beans, suet +dumplings, and buffalo meat, which, he says, “gave them no just cause to +covet the sumptuous feasts of our countrymen on this day.” More than a +year passed before they again saw and tasted spirits. + +Great expectations were entertained of the boat that was built here on +the iron frame brought all the way from Harper’s Ferry, Virginia. The +frame was covered with dressed skins of buffalo and elk, the seams being +coated with a composition of powdered charcoal and beeswax, in default +of tar or pitch. This craft was well named the “Experiment,” and a +disappointing experiment it proved to be. Here is Captain Lewis’ account +of her failure: + +“The boat having now become sufficiently dry, we gave her a coat of the +composition, which after a proper interval was repeated, and the next +morning, Tuesday, July 9th, she was launched into the water, and swam +perfectly well. The seats were then fixed and the oars fitted; but +after we had loaded her, as well as the canoes, and were on the point of +setting out, a violent wind caused the waves to wet the baggage, so +that we were forced to unload the boats. The wind continued high until +evening, when to our great disappointment we discovered that nearly +all the composition had separated from the skins and left the seams +perfectly exposed; so that the boat now leaked very much. To repair this +misfortune without pitch is impossible, and as none of that article +is to be procured, we therefore, however reluctantly, are obliged to +abandon her, after having had so much labor in the construction. We now +saw that the section of the boat covered with buffalo-skins on which +hair had been left answered better than the elk-skins, and leaked but +little; while that part which was covered with hair about one-eighth of +an inch retained the composition perfectly, and remained sound and +dry. From this we perceived that had we employed buffalo instead of +elk skins, not singed them so closely as we did, and carefully avoided +cutting the leather in sewing, the boat would have been sufficient even +with the present composition; or had we singed instead of shaving the +elk-skins, we might have succeeded. But we discovered our error too +late; the buffalo had deserted us, and the travelling season was so +fast advancing that we had no time to spare for experiments; therefore, +finding that she could be no longer useful, she was sunk in the water, +so as to soften the skins, and enable us the more easily to take her to +pieces. + +“It now became necessary to provide other means for transporting the +baggage which we had intended to stow in her. For this purpose we shall +want two more canoes; but for many miles--from below the mouth of the +Musselshell River to this place--we have not seen a single tree fit to +be used in that way. The hunters, however, who have hitherto been sent +after timber, mention that there is a low ground on the opposite side of +the river, about eight miles above us by land, and more than twice that +distance by water, in which we may probably find trees large enough for +our purposes. Captain Clark determined, therefore, to set out by land +for that place with ten of the best workmen, who would be occupied in +building the canoes till the rest of the party, after taking the boat to +pieces, and making the necessary deposits, should transport the baggage, +and join them with the other six canoes. + +“He accordingly passed over to the opposite side of the river with his +party next day, and proceeded on eight miles by land, the distance by +water being twenty-three and three quarter miles. Here he found two +cottonwood trees; but, on cutting them down, one proved to be hollow, +split at the top in falling, and both were much damaged at the bottom. +He searched the neighborhood, but could find none which would suit +better, and therefore was obliged to make use of those which he had +felled, shortening them in order to avoid the cracks, and supplying the +deficiency by making them as wide as possible. They were equally at a +loss for wood of which they might make handles for their axes, the eyes +of which not being round, they were obliged to split the timber in such +a manner that thirteen of the handles broke in the course of the day, +though made of the best wood they could find for the purpose, which was +the chokecherry. + +“The rest of the party took the frame of the boat to pieces, deposited +it in a cache or hole, with a draught of the country from Fort Mandan +to this place, and also some other papers and small articles of less +importance.” + +High winds prevented the party from making rapid progress, and +notwithstanding the winds they were greatly troubled with mosquitoes. +Lest the reader should think the explorers too sensitive on the +subject of these troublesome pests, it should be said that only western +travellers can realize the numbers and venom of the mosquitoes of that +region. Early emigrants across the continent were so afflicted by these +insects that the air at times seemed full of gray clouds of them. It +was the custom of the wayfarers to build a “smudge,” as it was called, +a low, smouldering fire of green boughs and brush, the dense smoke +from which (almost as annoying as the mosquitoes) would drive off their +persecutors as long, as the victims sat in the smoke. The sleeping tent +was usually cleared in this way before “turning in” at night, every +opening of the canvas being afterwards closed. + +Captain Lewis, on the thirteenth of July, followed Captain Clark up the +river; crossing the stream to the north bank, with his six canoes and +all his baggage, he overtook the other party on the same day and found +them all engaged in boat-building. + +“On his way he passed a very large Indian lodge, which was probably +designed as a great council-house; but it differed in its construction +from all that we had seen, lower down the Missouri or elsewhere. The +form of it was a circle two hundred and sixteen feet in circumference at +the base; it was composed of sixteen large cottonwood poles about fifty +feet long and at their thicker ends, which touched the ground, about the +size of a man’s body. They were distributed at equal distances, except +that one was omitted to the cast, probably for the entrance. From the +circumference of this circle the poles converged toward the centre, +where they were united and secured by large withes of willow-brush. +There was no covering over this fabric, in the centre of which were +the remains of a large fire, and around it the marks of about eighty +leathern lodges. He also saw a number of turtle-doves, and some pigeons, +of which he shot one, differing in no respect from the wild pigeon of +the United States. . . .” + +“The buffalo have not yet quite gone, for the hunters brought in three, +in very good order. It requires some diligence to supply us plentifully, +for as we reserve our parched meal for the Rocky Mountains, where we do +not expect to find much game, our principal article of food is meat, and +the consumption of the whole thirty-two persons belonging to the +party amounts to four deer, an elk and a deer, or one buffalo, every +twenty-four hours. The mosquitoes and gnats persecute us as violently as +below, so that we can get no sleep unless defended by biers (nets), with +which we are all provided. We here found several plants hitherto unknown +to us, of which we preserved specimens.” + +On the fourteenth of July, the boats were finally launched, and next day +the journal records this important event: + +“We rose early, embarked all our baggage on board the canoes, which, +though eight in number, are heavily loaded, and at ten o’clock set out +on our journey. . . . At the distance of seven and a half miles we came +to the lower point of a woodland, at the entrance of a beautiful river, +which, in honor of the Secretary of the Navy, we called Smith’s River. +This stream falls into a bend on the south side of the Missouri, and +is eighty yards wide. As far as we could discern its course, it wound +through a charming valley towards the southeast, in which many herds +of buffalo were feeding, till, at the distance of twenty-five miles, it +entered the Rocky Mountains and was lost from our view. . . . + +“We find the prickly pear, one of the greatest beauties as well as +greatest inconveniences of the plains, now in full bloom. The sunflower, +too, a plant common on every part of the Missouri from its entrance to +this place, is here very abundant, and in bloom. The lamb’s-quarter, +wild cucumber, sand-rush, and narrow dock, are also common.” + +The journal here records the fact that the great river had now become so +crooked that it was expedient to note only its general course, leaving +out all description of its turns and windings. The Missouri was now +flowing due north, leaving its bends out of account, and the explorers, +ascending the river, were therefore travelling south; and although the +journal sets forth “the north bank” and “the south bank,” it should be +understood that west is meant by the one, and east by the other. Buffalo +were observed in great numbers. Many obstacles to navigating the river +were encountered. Under date of July 17, the journal says: + +“The navigation is now very laborious. The river is deep, but with +little current, and from seventy to one hundred yards wide; the low +grounds are very narrow, with but little timber, and that chiefly the +aspen tree. The cliffs are steep, and hang over the river so much that +often we could not cross them, but were obliged to pass and repass from +one side of the river to the other, in order to make our way. In +some places the banks are formed of dark or black granite rising +perpendicularly to a great height, through which the river seems, in the +progress of time, to have worn its channel. On these mountains we see +more pine than usual, but it is still in small quantities. Along the +bottoms, which have a covering of high grass, we observed the sunflower +blooming in great abundance. The Indians of the Missouri, more +especially those who do not cultivate maize, make great use of the seed +of this plant for bread, or in thickening their soup. They first parch +and then pound it between two stones, until it is reduced to a fine +meal. Sometimes they add a portion of water, and drink it thus diluted; +at other times they add a sufficient proportion of marrow-grease to +reduce it to the consistency of common dough, and eat it in that manner. +This last composition we preferred to all the rest, and thought it at +that time a very palatable dish.” + +They also feasted on a great variety of wild berries, purple, yellow, +and black currants, which were delicious and more pleasant to the palate +than those grown in their Virginia home-gardens; also service-berries, +popularly known to later emigrants as “sarvice-berries.” These grow on +small bushes, two or three feet high; and the fruit is purple-skinned, +with a white pulp, resembling a ripe gooseberry. + +The journal, next day, has the following entry:-- + +“This morning early, before our departure, we saw a large herd of the +big-horned animals, which were bounding among the rocks on the opposite +cliff with great agility. These inaccessible spots secure them from +all their enemies, and their only danger is in wandering among these +precipices, where we would suppose it scarcely possible for any animal +to stand; a single false step would precipitate them at least five +hundred feet into the water. + +“At one and one fourth miles we passed another single cliff on the left; +at the same distance beyond which is the mouth of a large river emptying +from the north. It is a handsome, bold, and clear stream, eighty yards +wide--that is, nearly as broad as the Missouri--with a rapid current, +over a bed of small smooth stones of various figures. The water is +extremely transparent; the low grounds are narrow, but possess as much +wood as those of the Missouri. The river has every appearance of being +navigable, though to what distance we cannot ascertain, as the country +which it waters is broken and mountainous. In honor of the Secretary of +War we called it Dearborn’s River.” + +General Henry Dearborn, who was then Secretary of War, in Jefferson’s +administration, gave his name, a few years later, to a collection of +camps and log-cabins on Lake Michigan; and in due time Fort Dearborn +became the great city of Chicago. Continuing, the journal says: + +“Being now very anxious to meet with the Shoshonees or Snake Indians, +for the purpose of obtaining the necessary information of our route, +as well as to procure horses, it was thought best for one of us to go +forward with a small party and endeavor to discover them, before the +daily discharge of our guns, which is necessary for our subsistence, +should give them notice of our approach. If by an accident they hear us, +they will most probably retreat to the mountains, mistaking us for their +enemies, who usually attack them on this side.” . . . . . . . . . + +Captain Clark was now in the lead with a small party, and he came upon +the remains of several Indian camps formed of willow-brush, Traces of +Indians became more plentiful. The journal adds:-- + +“At the same time Captain Clark observed that the pine trees had been +stripped of their bark about the same season, which our Indian woman +says her countrymen do in order to obtain the sap and the soft parts of +the wood and bark for food. About eleven o’clock he met a herd of +elk and killed two of them; but such was the want of wood in the +neighborhood that he was unable to procure enough to make a fire, and +was therefore obliged to substitute the dung of the buffalo, with which +he cooked his breakfast. They then resumed their course along an old +Indian road. In the afternoon they reached a handsome valley, watered by +a large creek, both of which extended a considerable distance into the +mountain. This they crossed, and during the evening travelled over a +mountainous country covered with sharp fragments of flint rock; these +bruised and cut their feet very much, but were scarcely less troublesome +than the prickly-pear of the open plains, which have now become so +abundant that it is impossible to avoid them, and the thorns are so +strong that they pierce a double sole of dressed deer-skin; the best +resource against them is a sole of buffalo-hide in parchment (that +is, hard dried). At night they reached the river much fatigued, having +passed two mountains in the course of the day, and travelled thirty +miles. Captain Clark’s first employment, on lighting a fire, was to +extract from his feet the thorns, which he found seventeen in number.” + +The dung of the buffalo, exposed for many years to the action of sun, +wind, and rain, became as dry and firm as the finest compressed hay. +As “buffalo chips,” in these treeless regions, it was the overland +emigrants’ sole dependence for fuel. + +The explorers now approached a wonderful pass in the Rocky Mountains +which their journal thus describes: + +“A mile and a half beyond this creek (Cottonwood Creek) the rocks +approach the river on both sides, forming a most sublime and +extraordinary spectacle. For five and three quarter miles these rocks +rise perpendicularly from the water’s edge to the height of nearly +twelve hundred feet. They are composed of a black granite near their +base, but from the lighter color above, and from the fragments, we +suppose the upper part to be flint of a yellowish brown and cream color. + +“Nothing can be imagined more tremendous than the frowning darkness +of these rocks, which project over the river and menace us with +destruction. The river, one hundred and fifty yards in width, seems to +have forced its channel down this solid mass; but so reluctantly has it +given way, that during the whole distance the water is very deep even at +the edges, and for the first three miles there is not a spot, except +one of a few yards, in which a man could stand between the water and the +towering perpendicular of the mountain. The convulsion of the passage +must have been terrible, since at its outlet there are vast columns +of rock torn from the mountain, which are strewed on both sides of the +river, the trophies, as it were, of its victory. Several fine springs +burst out from the chasms of the rock, and contribute to increase the +river, which has a strong current, but, very fortunately, we were able +to overcome it with our oars, since it would have been impossible to use +either the cord or the pole. We were obliged to go on some time after +dark, not being able to find a spot large enough to encamp on; but at +length, about two miles above a small island in the middle of the river, +we met with a place on the left side, where we procured plenty of light +wood and pitch pine. This extraordinary range of rocks we called the +Gates of the Rocky Mountains.” + +Some of Captain Clark’s men, engaged in hunting, gave the alarm to +roving bands of Shoshonee Indians, hunting in that vicinity. The noise +of their guns attracted the attention of the Indians, who, having set +fire to the grass as a warning to their comrades, fled to the mountains. +The whole country soon appeared to have taken fright, and great clouds +of smoke were observed in all directions. Falling into an old Indian +trail, Captain Clark waited, with his weary and footsore men, for the +rest of the party to come up with them. + +The explorers had now passed south, between the Big Belt range of +mountains on the cast and the main chain of the Rocky Mountains on the +west. Meagher County, Montana, now lies on the cast of their trail, and +on the west side of that route is the county of Lewis and Clark. They +were now--still travelling southward--approaching the ultimate sources +of the great Missouri. The journal says:-- + +“We are delighted to find that the Indian woman recognizes the country; +she tells us that to this creek her countrymen make excursions to +procure white paint on its banks, and we therefore call it Whiteearth +Creek. She says also that the Three Forks of the Missouri are at no +great distance--a piece of intelligence which has cheered the spirits +of us all, as we hope soon to reach the head of that river. This is the +warmest day, except one, we have experienced this summer. In the shade +the mercury stood at eighty degrees, which is the second time it has +reached that height during this season. We camped on an island, after +making nineteen and three quarters miles. + +“In the course of the day we saw many geese, cranes, small birds common +to the plains, and a few pheasants. We also observed a small plover or +curlew of a brown color, about the size of a yellow-legged plover or +jack-curlew, but of a different species. It first appeared near the +mouth of Smith’s River, but is so shy and vigilant that we were unable +to shoot it. Both the broad and narrow-leaved willow continue, +though the sweet willow has become very scarce. The rosebush, small +honeysuckle, pulpy-leaved thorn, southernwood, sage, box-elder, +narrow-leaved cottonwood, redwood, and a species of sumach, are all +abundant. So, too, are the red and black gooseberries, service-berry, +choke-cherry, and the black, yellow, red, and purple currants, which +last seems to be a favorite food of the bear. Before camping we landed +and took on board Captain Clark, with the meat he had collected during +this day’s hunt, which consisted of one deer and an elk; we had, +ourselves, shot a deer and an antelope.” + +The party found quantities of wild onions of good flavor and size. They +also observed wild flax, garlic, and other vegetable products of value. +The journal adds:-- + +“We saw many otter and beaver to-day (July 24th). The latter seem to +contribute very much to the number of islands, and the widening of the +river. They begin by damming up the small channels of about twenty yards +between the islands: this obliges the river to seek another outlet, and, +as soon as this is effected, the channel stopped by the beaver becomes +filled with mud and sand. The industrious animal is then driven to +another channel, which soon shares the same fate, till the river spreads +on all sides, and cuts the projecting points of the land into islands. +We killed a deer, and saw great numbers of antelopes, cranes, some +geese, and a few red-headed ducks. The small birds of the plains and +the curlew are still abundant: we saw a large bear, but could not come +within gunshot of him. There are numerous tracks of the elk, but none +of the animals themselves; and, from the appearance of bones and old +excrement, we suppose that buffalo sometimes stray into the valley, +though we have as yet seen no recent sign of them. Along the water are +a number of snakes, some of a uniform brown color, others black, and +a third speckled on the abdomen, and striped with black and a brownish +yellow on the back and sides. The first, which is the largest, is about +four feet long; the second is of the kind mentioned yesterday; and the +third resembles in size and appearance the garter-snake of the United +States. On examining the teeth of all these several kinds, we found them +free from poison: they are fond of the water, in which they take shelter +on being pursued. The mosquitoes, gnats, and prickly pear, our three +persecutors, still continue with us, and, joined with the labor of +working the canoes, have fatigued us all excessively.” + +On Thursday, July 25, Captain Clark, who was in the lead, as usual, +arrived at the famous Three Forks of the Missouri. The stream flowing in +a generally northeastern direction was the true, or principal Missouri, +and was named the Jefferson. The middle branch was named the Madison, +in honor of James Madison, then Secretary of State, and the fork next to +the eastward received the name of Albert Gallatin, then Secretary of +the Treasury; and by these titles the streams are known to this day. The +explorers had now passed down to their furthest southern limit, their +trail being to the eastward of the modern cities of Helena and Butte, +and separated only by a narrow divide (then unknown to them) from the +sources of some of the streams that fall into the Pacific Ocean. Under +the date of July 27, the journal says:-- + +“We are now very anxious to see the Snake Indians. After advancing for +several hundred miles into this wild and mountainous country, we may +soon expect that the game will abandon us. With no information of the +route, we may be unable to find a passage across the mountains when we +reach the head of the river--at least, such a pass as will lead us +to the Columbia. Even are we so fortunate as to find a branch of that +river, the timber which we have hitherto seen in these mountains does +not promise us any fit to make canoes, so that our chief dependence is +on meeting some tribe from whom we may procure horses. Our consolation +is that this southwest branch can scarcely head with any other river +than the Columbia; and that if any nation of Indians can live in the +mountains we are able to endure as much as they can, and have even +better means of procuring subsistence.” + + + + +Chapter XII -- At the Sources of the Missouri + +The explorers were now (in the last days of July, 1805) at the head of +the principal sources of the great Missouri River, in the fastnesses +of the Rocky Mountains, at the base of the narrow divide that separates +Idaho from Montana in its southern corner. Just across this divide are +the springs that feed streams falling into the majestic Columbia and +then to the Pacific Ocean. As has been already set forth, they named the +Three Forks for President Jefferson and members of his cabinet. These +names still survive, although Jefferson River is the true Missouri +and not a fork of that stream. Upon the forks of the Jefferson Lewis +bestowed the titles of Philosophy, Wisdom, and Philanthropy, each of +these gifts and graces being, in his opinion, “an attribute of that +illustrious personage, Thomas Jefferson,” then President of the United +States. But alas for the fleeting greatness of geographical honor! +Philosophy River is now known as Willow Creek, and at its mouth, a busy +little railroad town, is Willow City. The northwest fork is no longer +Wisdom, but Big Hole River; deep valleys among the mountains are known +as holes; and the stream called by that name, once Wisdom, is followed +along its crooked course by a railroad that connects Dillon, Silver Bow, +and Butte City, Montana. Vulgarity does its worst for Philanthropy; its +modern name on the map is Stinking Water. + +On the thirtieth of July, the party, having camped long enough to unpack +and dry their goods, dress their deerskins and make them into leggings +and moccasins, reloaded their canoes and began the toilsome ascent of +the Jefferson. The journal makes this record:-- + +“Sacajawea, our Indian woman, informs us that we are encamped on the +precise spot where her countrymen, the Snake Indians, had their huts +five years ago, when the Minnetarees of Knife River first came in +sight of them, and from whom they hastily retreated three miles up +the Jefferson, and concealed themselves in the woods. The Minnetarees, +however, pursued and attacked them, killed four men, as many women, +and a number of boys; and made prisoners of four other boys and all +the females, of whom Sacajawea was one. She does not, however, show any +distress at these recollections, nor any joy at the prospect of being +restored to her country; for she seems to possess the folly, or the +philosophy, of not suffering her feelings to extend beyond the anxiety +of having plenty to eat and a few trinkets to wear. + +“This morning the hunters brought in some fat deer of the long-tailed +red kind, which are quite as large as those of the United States, +and are, indeed, the only kind we have found at this place. There are +numbers of the sand-hill cranes feeding in the meadows: we caught a +young one of the same color as the red deer, which, though it had nearly +attained its full growth, could not fly; it is very fierce, and strikes +a severe blow with its beak. . . . + +“Captain Lewis proceeded after dinner through an extensive low ground of +timber and meadow-land intermixed; but the bayous were so obstructed by +beaver-dams that, in order to avoid them, he directed his course toward +the high plain on the right. This he gained with some difficulty, +after wading up to his waist through the mud and water of a number +of beaver-dams. When he desired to rejoin the canoes he found the +underbrush so thick, and the river so crooked, that this, joined to the +difficulty of passing the beaver-dams, induced him to go on and endeavor +to intercept the river at some point where it might be more collected +into one channel, and approach nearer the high plain. He arrived at the +bank about sunset, having gone only six miles in a direct course from +the canoes; but he saw no traces of the men, nor did he receive any +answer to his shouts and the firing of his gun. It was now nearly dark; +a duck lighted near him, and he shot it. He then went on the head of a +small island, where he found some driftwood, which enabled him to cook +his duck for supper, and laid down to sleep on some willow-brush. The +night was cool, but the driftwood gave him a good fire, and he suffered +no inconvenience, except from the mosquitoes.” + +The easy indifference to discomfort with which these well-seasoned +pioneers took their hardships must needs impress the reader. It was a +common thing for men, or for a solitary man, to be caught out of camp +by nightfall and compelled to bivouac, like Captain Lewis, in the +underbrush, or the prairie-grass. As they pressed on, game began to fail +them. Under date of July 31, they remark that the only game seen that +day was one bighorn, a few antelopes, deer, and a brown bear, all of +which escaped them. “Nothing was killed to-day,” it is recorded, “nor +have we had any fresh meat except one beaver for the last two days; so +that we are now reduced to an unusual situation, for we have hitherto +always had a great abundance of flesh.” Indeed, one reason for this is +found in Captain Lewis’s remark: “When we have plenty of fresh meat, I +find it impossible to make the men take any care of it, or use it with +the least frugality, though I expect that necessity will shortly teach +them this art.” We shall see, later on, that the men, who were really as +improvident of food as the Indians, had hard lessons from necessity. + +Anxious to reach the Indians, who were believed to be somewhere ahead +of them, Captain Lewis and three men went on up the Jefferson, Captain +Clark and his party following with the canoes and luggage in a more +leisurely manner. The advance party were so fortunate as to overtake a +herd of elk, two of which they killed; what they did not eat they left +secured for the other party with the canoes. Clark’s men also had good +luck in hunting, for they killed five deer and one bighorn. Neither +party found fresh tracks of Indians, and they were greatly discouraged +thereat. The journal speaks of a beautiful valley, from six to eight +miles wide, where they saw ancient traces of buffalo occupation, but no +buffalo. These animals had now completely disappeared; they were seldom +seen in those mountains. The journal says of Lewis:-- + +“He saw an abundance of deer and antelope, and many tracks of elk and +bear. Having killed two deer, they feasted sumptuously, with a dessert +of currants of different colors--two species red, others yellow, deep +purple, and black; to these were added black gooseberries and deep +purple service-berries, somewhat larger than ours, from which they +differ also in color, size, and the superior excellence of their +flavor. In the low grounds of the river were many beaver-dams formed of +willow-brush, mud, and gravel, so closely interwoven that they resist +the water perfectly; some of them were five feet high, and caused the +river to overflow several acres of land.” + +Meanwhile, the party with the canoes were having a fatiguing time as +they toiled up the river. On the fourth of August, after they had made +only fifteen miles, the journal has this entry:-- + +“The river is still rapid, and the water, though clear, is very much +obstructed by shoals or ripples at every two hundred or three hundred +yards. At all these places we are obliged to drag the canoes over the +stones, as there is not a sufficient depth of water to float them, and +in the other parts the current obliges us to have recourse to the cord. +But as the brushwood on the banks will not permit us to walk on shore, +we are under the necessity of wading through the river as we drag the +boats. This soon makes our feet tender, and sometimes occasions severe +falls over the slippery stones; and the men, by being constantly wet, +are becoming more feeble. In the course of the day the hunters killed +two deer, some geese and ducks, and the party saw some antelopes, +cranes, beaver, and otter.” + +Captain Lewis had left a note for Captain Clark at the forks of the +Jefferson and Wisdom rivers. Clark’s journal says:-- + +“We arrived at the forks about four o’clock, but, unluckily, Captain +Lewis’s note had been attached to a green pole, which the beaver had cut +down, and carried off with the note on it: an accident which deprived us +of all information as to the character of the two branches of the river. +Observing, therefore, that the northwest fork was most in our direction, +we ascended it. We found it extremely rapid, and its waters were +scattered in such a manner that for a quarter of a mile we were forced +to cut a passage through the willow-brush that leaned over the little +channels and united at the top. After going up it for a mile, we +encamped on an island which had been overflowed, and was still so wet +that we were compelled to make beds of brush to keep ourselves out of +the mud. Our provision consisted of two deer which had been killed in +the morning.” + +It should be borne in mind that this river, up which the party were +making their way, was the Wisdom (now Big Hole), and was the northwest +fork of the Jefferson, flowing from southeast to northwest; and near the +point where it enters the Jefferson, it has a loop toward the northeast; +that is to say, it comes from the southwest to a person looking up its +mouth. + + +After going up the Wisdom River, Clark’s party were overtaken by +Drewyer, Lewis’s hunter, who had been sent across between the forks to +notify Clark that Lewis regarded the other fork--the main Jefferson--as +the right course to take. The party, accordingly, turned about and began +to descend the stream, in order to ascend the Jefferson. The journal +says:-- + +“On going down, one of the canoes upset and two others filled with +water, by which all the baggage was wet and several articles were +irrecoverably lost. As one of them swung round in a rapid current, +Whitehouse was thrown out of her; while down, the canoe passed over him, +and had the water been two inches shallower would have crushed him to +pieces; but he escaped with a severe bruise of his leg. In order to +repair these misfortunes we hastened (down) to the forks, where we were +joined by Captain Lewis. We then passed over to the left (east) side, +opposite the entrance of the rapid fork, and camped on a large gravelly +bar, near which there was plenty of wood. Here we opened, and exposed +to dry, all the articles which had suffered from the water; none of them +were completely spoiled except a small keg of powder; the rest of the +powder, which was distributed in the different canoes, was quite safe, +although it had been under the water for upward of an hour. The air is +indeed so pure and dry that any wood-work immediately shrinks, unless +it is kept filled with water; but we had placed our powder in small +canisters of lead, each containing powder enough for the canister when +melted into bullets, and secured with cork and wax, which answered our +purpose perfectly. . . .” + +“In the evening we killed three deer and four elk, which furnished us +once more with a plentiful supply of meat. Shannon, the same man who had +been lost for fifteen days (August 28 to Sept. 11, 1804), was sent +out this morning to hunt, up the northwest fork. When we decided on +returning, Drewyer was directed to go in quest of him, but he returned +with information that he had gone several miles up the (Wisdom) river +without being able to find Shannon. We now had the trumpet sounded, +and fired several guns; but he did not return, and we fear he is again +lost.” + +This man, although an expert hunter, had an unlucky habit of losing +himself in the wilderness, as many another good man has lost himself +among the mountains or the great plains. This time, however, he came +into camp again, after being lost three days. + +On the eighth of August the party reached a point now known by its +famous landmark, Beaver Head, a remarkable rocky formation which gives +its name to Beaverhead County, Montana. The Indian woman, Sacajawea, +recognized the so-called beaver-head, which, she said, was not far from +the summer retreat of her countrymen, living on the other side of the +mountains. The whole party were now together again, the men with the +canoes having come up; and the journal says:-- + +“Persuaded of the absolute necessity of procuring horses to cross +the mountains, it was determined that one of us should proceed in the +morning to the head of the river, and penetrate the mountains till +he found the Shoshonees or some other nation who can assist us in +transporting our baggage, the greater part of which we shall be +compelled to leave without the aid of horses.”. . . + +Early the next day Captain Lewis took Drewyer, Shields, and M’Neal, and, +slinging their knapsacks, they set out with a resolution to meet some +nation of Indians before they returned, however long they might be +separated from the party. + +The party in the canoes continued to ascend the river, which was so +crooked that they advanced but four miles in a direct line from their +starting-place in a distance of eleven miles. In this manner, the party +on foot leading those with the canoes, they repeatedly explored the +various forks of the streams, which baffled them by their turnings and +windings. Lewis was in the advance, and Clark brought up the rear with +the main body. It was found necessary for the leading party to wade the +streams, and occasionally they were compelled by the roughness of +the way to leave the water-course and take to the hills, where great +vigilance was required to keep them in sight of the general direction in +which they must travel. On the 11th of August, 1805, Captain Lewis came +in sight of the first Indian encountered since leaving the country of +the Minnetarees, far back on the Missouri. The journal of that date +says: + +“On examining him with the glass Captain Lewis saw that he was of a +different nation from any Indians we had hitherto met. He was armed with +a bow and a quiver of arrows, and mounted on an elegant horse without a +saddle; a small string attached to the under jaw answered as a bridle. + +“Convinced that he was a Shoshonee, and knowing how much our success +depended on the friendly offices of that nation, Captain Lewis was full +of anxiety to approach without alarming him, and endeavor to convince +him that he (Lewis) was a white man. He therefore proceeded toward the +Indian at his usual pace. When they were within a mile of each other the +Indian suddenly stopped. Captain Lewis immediately followed his example, +took his blanket from his knapsack, and, holding it with both hands at +the two corners, threw it above his head, and unfolded it as he brought +it to the ground, as if in the act of spreading it. This signal, which +originates in the practice of spreading a robe or skin as a seat for +guests to whom they wish to show a distinguished kindness, is the +universal sign of friendship among the Indians on the Missouri and the +Rocky Mountains. As usual, Captain Lewis repeated this signal three +times: still the Indian kept his position, and looked with an air of +suspicion on Drewyer and Shields, who were now advancing on each side. +Captain Lewis was afraid to make any signal for them to halt, lest he +should increase the distrust of the Indian, who began to be uneasy, and +they were too distant to hear his voice. He therefore took from his pack +some beads, a looking-glass, and a few trinkets, which he had brought +for the purpose, and, leaving his gun, advanced unarmed towards the +Indian. He remained in the same position till Captain Lewis came within +two hundred yards of him, when he turned his horse and began to move off +slowly. Captain Lewis then called out to him in as loud a voice as he +could, repeating the words tabba bone, which in the Shoshonee language +mean white man. But, looking over his shoulder, the Indian kept his eyes +on Drewyer and Shields, who were still advancing, without recollecting +the impropriety of doing so at such a moment, till Captain Lewis made a +signal to them to halt: this Drewyer obeyed, but Shields did not observe +it, and still went forward. Seeing Drewyer halt, the Indian turned his +horse about as if to wait for Captain Lewis, who now reached within one +hundred and fifty paces, repeating the words tabba bone, and holding up +the trinkets in his hand, at the same time stripping up the sleeve of +his shirt to show the color of his skin. The Indian suffered him to +advance within one hundred paces, then suddenly turned his horse, and, +giving him the whip, leaped across the creek, and disappeared in an +instant among the willow bushes: with him vanished all the hopes +which the sight of him had inspired, of a friendly introduction to his +countrymen.” + +Sadly disappointed by the clumsy imprudence of his men, Captain Lewis +now endeavored to follow the track of the retreating Indian, hoping that +this might lead them to an encampment, or village, of the Shoshonees. He +also built a fire, the smoke of which might attract the attention of +the Indians. At the same time, he placed on a pole near the fire a +small assortment of beads, trinkets, awls, and paints, in order that the +Indians, if they returned that way, might discover them and be thereby +assured the strangers were white men and friends. Next morning, while +trying to follow the trail of the lone Indian, they found traces of +freshly turned earth where people had been digging for roots; and, later +on, they came upon the fresh track of eight or ten horses. But these +were soon scattered, and the explorers only found that the general +direction of the trails was up into the mountains which define the +boundary between Montana and Idaho. Skirting the base of these mountains +(the Bitter Root), the party endeavored to find a plain trail, or Indian +road, leading up to a practicable pass. Travelling in a southwesterly +direction along the main stream, they entered a valley which led into +the mountains. Here they ate their last bit of fresh meat, the remainder +of a deer they had killed a day or two before; they reserved for their +final resort, in case of famine, a small piece of salt pork. The journal +says:-- + +“They then continued through the low bottom, along the main stream, near +the foot of the mountains on their right. For the first five miles, the +valley continues toward the southwest, being from two to three miles in +width; then the main stream, which had received two small branches from +the left in the valley, turned abruptly to the west through a narrow +bottom between the mountains. The road was still plain, and, as it +led them directly on toward the mountain, the stream gradually became +smaller, till, after going two miles, it had so greatly diminished in +width that one of the men, in a fit of enthusiasm, with one foot on +each side of the river, thanked God that he had lived to bestride the +Missouri. As they went along their hopes of soon seeing the Columbia +(that is, the Pacific watershed) arose almost to painful anxiety, when +after four miles from the last abrupt turn of the river (which turn +had been to the west), they reached a small gap formed by the high +mountains, which recede on each side, leaving room for the Indian road. +From the foot of one of the lowest of these mountains, which rises with +a gentle ascent of about half a mile, issues the remotest water of the +Missouri. + +“They had now reached the hidden sources of that river, which had never +yet been seen by civilized man. As they quenched their thirst at the +chaste and icy fountain--as they sat down by the brink of that little +rivulet, which yielded its distant and modest tribute to the parent +ocean--they felt themselves rewarded for all their labors and all their +difficulties. + +“They left reluctantly this interesting spot, and, pursuing the Indian +road through the interval of the hills, arrived at the top of a ridge, +from which they saw high mountains, partially covered with snow, still +to the west of them. + +“The ridge on which they stood formed the dividing line between the +waters of the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. They followed a descent +much steeper than that on the eastern side, and at the distance of +three-quarters of a mile reached a handsome, bold creek of cold, clear +water running to the westward. They stopped to taste, for the first +time, the waters of the Columbia; and, after a few minutes, followed the +road across steep hills and low hollows, when they came to a spring on +the side of a mountain. Here they found a sufficient quantity of dry +willow-brush for fuel, and therefore halted for the night; and, having +killed nothing in the course of the day, supped on their last piece of +pork, and trusted to fortune for some other food to mix with a little +flour and parched meal, which was all that now remained of their +provisions.” + + + + +Chapter XIII -- From the Minnetarees to the Shoshonees + +Travelling in a westerly direction, with a very gradual descent, Captain +Lewis, on the thirteenth of August, came upon two Indian women, a man, +and some dogs. The Indians sat down when the strangers first came in +sight, as if to wait for their coming; but, soon taking alarm, they +all fled, much to the chagrin of the white men. Now striking into a +well-worn Indian road, they found themselves surely near a village. The +journal says:-- + +“They had not gone along the road more than a mile, when on a sudden +they saw three female Indians, from whom they had been concealed by +the deep ravines which intersected the road, till they were now within +thirty paces of each other. One of them, a young woman, immediately took +to flight; the other two, an elderly woman and a little girl, seeing +they were too near for them to escape, sat on the ground, and holding +down their heads seemed as if reconciled to the death which they +supposed awaited them. The same habit of holding down the head and +inviting the enemy to strike, when all chance of escape is gone, is +preserved in Egypt to this day. + +“Captain Lewis instantly put down his rifle, and advancing toward them, +took the woman by the hand, raised her up, and repeated the words ‘tabba +bone!’ at the same time stripping up his shirt-sleeve to prove that he +was a white man--for his hands and face had become by constant exposure +quite as dark as their own. She appeared immediately relieved from her +alarm; and Drewyer and Shields now coming up, Captain Lewis gave them +some beads, a few awls, pewter mirrors, and a little paint, and told +Drewyer to request the woman to recall her companion, who had escaped to +some distance and, by alarming the Indians, might cause them to attack +him without any time for explanation. She did as she was desired, and +the young woman returned almost out of breath. Captain Lewis gave her an +equal portion of trinkets, and painted the tawny checks of all three +of them with vermilion,--a ceremony which among the Shoshonees is +emblematic of peace. + +“After they had become composed, he informed them by signs of his wishes +to go to their camp, in order to see their chiefs and warriors; they +readily obeyed, and conducted the party along the same road down the +river. In this way they marched two miles, when they met a troop of +nearly sixty warriors, mounted on excellent horses, riding at full speed +toward them. As they advanced Captain Lewis put down his gun, and went +with the flag about fifty paces in advance. The chief, who with two +men was riding in front of the main body, spoke to the women, who +now explained that the party was composed of white men, and showed +exultingly the presents they had received. The three men immediately +leaped from their horses, came up to Captain Lewis, and embraced him +with great cordiality, putting their left arm over his right shoulder, +and clasping his back, applying at the same time their left cheek to +his, and frequently vociferating ah hi e! ah hi e! ‘I am much pleased, I +am much rejoiced.’ The whole body of warriors now came forward, and our +men received the caresses, and no small share of the grease and paint, +of their new friends. After this fraternal embrace, of which the motive +was much more agreeable than the manner, Captain Lewis lighted a pipe, +and offered it to the Indians, who had now seated themselves in a +circle around the party. But, before they would receive this mark of +friendship, they pulled off their moccasins: a custom, as we afterward +learned, which indicates the sacred sincerity of their professions +when they smoke with a stranger, and which imprecates on themselves +the misery of going barefoot forever if they prove faithless to their +words--a penalty by no means light for those who rove over the thorny +plains of this country. . . . + +“After smoking a few pipes, some trifling presents were distributed +among them, with which they seemed very much pleased, particularly with +the blue beads and the vermilion. Captain Lewis then stated to the chief +that the object of his visit was friendly, and should be explained as +soon as he reached their camp; and that, as the sun was oppressive, and +no water near, he wished to go there as soon as possible. They now put +on their moccasins, and their chief, whose name was Cameahwait, made +a short speech to the warriors. Captain Lewis then gave him the flag, +which he informed him was among white men the emblem of peace; and, now +that he had received it, was to be in future the bond of union between +them. The chief then moved on; our party followed him; and the rest of +the warriors, in a squadron, brought up the rear.” + +Arriving at the village, the ceremony of smoking the pipe of peace +was solemnly observed; and the women and children of the tribe were +permitted to gaze with wonder on the first white men they had ever seen. +The Indians were not much better provided with food than were their +half-famished visitors. But some cakes made of service-berries and +choke-berries dried in the sun were presented to the white men “on +which,” says Captain Lewis, “we made a hearty meal.” Later in the day, +however, an Indian invited Captain Lewis into his wigwam and treated +him to a small morsel of boiled antelope and a piece of fresh salmon +roasted. This was the first salmon he had seen, and the captain was now +assured that he was on the headwaters of the Columbia. This stream was +what is now known as the Lemhi River. The water was clear and limpid, +flowing down a bed of gravel; its general direction was a little north +of west. The journal says:-- + +“The chief informed him that this stream discharged, at the distance +of half a day’s march, into another (Salmon River) of twice its size, +coming from the southwest; but added, on further inquiry, that there +was scarcely more timber below the junction of those rivers than in +this neighborhood, and that the river was rocky, rapid, and so closely +confined between high mountains that it was impossible to pass down it +either by land or water to the great lake (Pacific Ocean), where, as he +had understood, the white men lived. + +“This information was far from being satisfactory, for there was no +timber here that would answer the purpose of building canoes,--indeed +not more than just sufficient for fuel; and even that consisted of +the narrow-leaved cottonwood, the red and the narrow-leaved willow, +chokecherry, service-berry, and a few currant bushes, such as are common +on the Missouri. The prospect of going on by land is more pleasant, for +there are great numbers of horses feeding in every direction round the +camp, which will enable us to transport our stores, if necessary, over +the mountains.” + +While Captain Lewis was thus engaged, his companions in the canoes were +slowly and laboriously ascending the river on the other side of the +divide. The character of the stream was much as it had been for several +days, and the men were in the water three-fourths of the time, dragging +the boats over the shoals. They had but little success in killing game, +but caught, as they had done for some days before, numbers of fine +trout. + +“August 14. In order to give time for the boats to reach the forks of +Jefferson River,” proceeds the narrative, “Captain Lewis determined to +remain where he was, and obtain all the information he could collect +in regard to the country. Having nothing to eat but a little flour and +parched meal, with the berries of the Indians, he sent out Drewyer and +Shields, who borrowed horses from the natives, to hunt for a few hours. +About the same time the young warriors set out for the same purpose. +There are but few elk or black tailed deer in this neighborhood; and as +the common red deer secrete themselves in the bushes when alarmed, they +are soon safe from the arrows, which are but feeble weapons against any +animals which the huntsmen cannot previously run down with their horses. +The chief game of the Shoshonees, therefore, is the antelope, which, +when pursued, retreats to the open plains, where the horses have full +room for the chase. But such is its extraordinary fleetness and wind, +that a single horse has no possible chance of outrunning it or tiring it +down, and the hunters are therefore obliged to resort to stratagem. + +“About twenty Indians, mounted on fine horses, and armed with bows +and arrows, left the camp. In a short time they descried a herd of ten +antelope: they immediately separated into little squads of two or three, +and formed a scattered circle round the herd for five or six miles, +keeping at a wary distance, so as not to alarm them till they were +perfectly enclosed, and selecting, as far as possible, some commanding +eminence as a stand. Having gained their positions, a small party rode +towards the animals, and with wonderful dexterity the huntsmen preserved +their seats, and the horses their footing, as they ran at full speed +over the hills, down the steep ravines, and along the borders of the +precipices. They were soon outstripped by the antelopes, which, on +gaining the other extremity of the circle, were driven back and pursued +by the fresh hunters. They turned and flew, rather than ran, in another +direction; but there, too, they found new enemies. In this way they +were alternately pursued backward and forward, till at length, +notwithstanding the skill of the hunters, they all escaped and the +party, after running for two hours, returned without having caught +anything, and their horses foaming with sweat. This chase, the greater +part of which was seen from the camp, formed a beautiful scene; but to +the hunters it is exceedingly laborious, and so unproductive, even when +they are able to worry the animal down and shoot him, that forty or +fifty hunters will sometimes be engaged for half a day without obtaining +more than two or three antelope. + +“Soon after they returned, our two huntsmen came in with no better +success. Captain Lewis therefore made a little paste with the flour, and +the addition of some berries formed a very palatable repast. Having now +secured the good will of Cameahwait, Captain Lewis informed him of his +wish that he would speak to the warriors, and endeavor to engage them +to accompany him to the forks of Jefferson River; where by this time +another chief (Clark), with a large party of white men, was awaiting his +(Lewis’) return; that it would be necessary to take about thirty horses +to transport the merchandise; that they should be well rewarded for +their trouble; and that, when all the party should have reached the +Shoshonee camp, they would remain some time among them to trade for +horses, as well as concert plans for furnishing them in future with +regular supplies of merchandise. He readily consented to do so, and +after collecting the tribe together, he made a long harangue. In about +an hour and a half he returned, and told Captain Lewis that they would +be ready to accompany him in the morning.” + +But the Indians were suspicious and reluctant to take the word of the +white man. Captain Lewis, almost at his wits’ end, appealed to their +courage. He said that if they were afraid of being led into a trap, he +was sure that some among them were not afraid. + +“To doubt the courage of an Indian is to touch the tenderest string of +his mind, and the surest way to rouse him to any dangerous achievement. +Cameahwait instantly replied that he was not afraid to die, and mounting +his horse, for the third time harangued the warriors. He told them that +he was resolved to go if he went alone, or if he were sure of perishing; +that he hoped there were among those who heard him some who were not +afraid to die, and who would prove it by mounting their horses and +following him. This harangue produced an effect on six or eight only +of the warriors, who now joined their chief. With these Captain Lewis +smoked a pipe; and then, fearful of some change in their capricious +temper, set out immediately.” + +The party now retraced the steps so lately taken by Captain Lewis and +his men. On the second day out, one of the spies sent forward by the +Indians came madly galloping back, much to the alarm of the white men. +It proved, however, that the spy had returned to tell his comrades that +one of the white hunters (Drewyer) had killed a deer. An Indian riding +behind Captain Lewis, fearful that he should not get his share of +the spoil, jumped off the horse and ran for a mile at full speed. The +journal says:-- + +“Captain Lewis slackened his pace, and followed at a sufficient distance +to observe them. When they reached the place where Drewyer had thrown +out the intestines, they all dismounted in confusion and ran tumbling +over each other like famished dogs. Each tore away whatever part he +could, and instantly began to eat it. Some had the liver, some the +kidneys--in short, no part on which we are accustomed to look with +disgust escaped them. One of them, who had seized about nine feet of the +entrails, was chewing at one end, while with his hand he was diligently +clearing his way by discharging the contents at the other. It was indeed +impossible to see these wretches ravenously feeding on the filth of +animals, the blood streaming from their mouths, without deploring how +nearly the condition of savages approaches that of the brute creation. +Yet, though suffering with hunger, they did not attempt, as they might +have done, to take by force the whole deer, but contented themselves +with what had been thrown away by the hunter. Captain Lewis now had the +deer skinned, and after reserving a quarter of it gave the rest of the +animal to the chief, to be divided among the Indians, who immediately +devoured nearly the whole of it without cooking. They now went toward +the (Prairie) creek, where there was some brushwood to make a fire, and +found Drewyer, who had killed a second deer. The same struggle for the +entrails was renewed here, and on giving nearly the whole deer to the +Indians, they devoured it even to the soft part of the hoofs. A fire +being made, Captain Lewis had his breakfast, during which Drewyer +brought in a third deer. This too, after reserving one-quarter, was +given to the Indians, who now seemed completely satisfied and in good +humor.” + +They now approached the forks of the Jefferson, where they had expected +to meet Clark and his party with the canoes. Not seeing any signs of +them, the Lewis party were placed in a critical position. The Indians +were again alarmed and suspicious. Here Captain Clark’s journal says:-- + +“As they went on towards the point, Captain Lewis, perceiving how +critical his situation had become, resolved to attempt a stratagem, +which his present difficulty seemed completely to justify. Recollecting +the notes he had left at the point for us, he sent Drewyer for them with +an Indian, who witnessed his taking them from the pole. When they were +brought, Captain Lewis told Cameahwait that, on leaving his brother +chief at the place where the river issues from the mountains, it was +agreed that the boats should not be brought higher than the next forks +we should meet; but that, if the rapid water prevented the boats from +coming on as fast as they expected, his brother chief was to send a note +to the first forks above him, to let him know where they were: that this +note had been left this morning at the forks, and mentioned that +the canoes were just below the mountains, and coming up slowly in +consequence of the current. Captain Lewis added that he would stay at +the forks for his brother chief, but would send a man down the river; +and that if Cameahwait doubted what he said, one of their young men +could go with him, while he and the other two remained at the forks. +This story satisfied the chief and the greater part of the Indians; but +a few did not conceal their suspicions, observing that we told different +stories, and complaining that their chief exposed them to danger by +a mistaken confidence. Captain Lewis now wrote, by the light of some +willow-brush, a note to Captain Clark, which he gave to Drewyer, with +an order to use all possible expedition in descending the river, and +engaged an Indian to accompany him by the promise of a knife and some +beads. + +“At bedtime the chief and five others slept round the fire of +Captain Lewis, and the rest hid themselves in different parts of the +willow-brush to avoid the enemy, who, they feared, would attack them in +the night. Captain Lewis endeavored to assume a cheerfulness he did not +feel, to prevent the despondency of the savages. After conversing gayly +with them he retired to his mosquito-bier, by the side of which the +chief now placed himself. He lay down, yet slept but little, being +in fact scarcely less uneasy than his Indian companions. He was +apprehensive that, finding the ascent of the river impracticable, +Captain Clark might have stopped below Rattlesnake bluff, and the +messenger would not meet him. The consequence of disappointing the +Indians at this moment would most probably be that they would retire +and secrete themselves in the mountains, so as to prevent our having +an opportunity of recovering their confidence. They would also spread +a panic through all the neighboring Indians, and cut us off from the +supply of horses so useful and almost so essential to our success. +He was at the same time consoled by remembering that his hopes of +assistance rested on better foundations than their generosity--their +avarice and their curiosity. He had promised liberal exchanges for their +horses; but what was still more seductive, he had told them that one of +their countrywomen, who had been taken with the Minnetarees, accompanied +the party below; and one of the men had spread the report of our having +with us a man (York) perfectly black, whose hair was short and curled. +This last account had excited a great degree of curiosity, and they +seemed more desirous of seeing this monster than of obtaining the most +favorable barter for their horses.” + +On the following day, August 17, the two parties of explorers finally +met. Under that date the journal has this interesting entry:-- + +“Captain Lewis rose very early and despatched Drewyer and the Indian +down the river in quest of the boats. Shields was sent out at the same +time to hunt, while M’Neal prepared a breakfast out of the remainder of +the meat. Drewyer had been gone about two hours, and the Indians were +all anxiously waiting for some news, when an Indian, who had straggled +a short distance down the river, returned with a report that he had seen +the white men, who were only a short distance below, and were coming on. +The Indians were transported with joy, and the chief, in the warmth of +his satisfaction, renewed his embrace to Captain Lewis, who was quite +as much delighted as the Indians themselves. The report proved most +agreeably true. + +“On setting out at seven o’clock, Captain Clark, with Chaboneau and his +wife, walked on shore; but they had not gone more than a mile before +Captain Clark saw Sacajawea, who was with her husband one hundred yards +ahead, begin to dance and show every mark of the most extravagant joy, +turning round to him and pointing to several Indians, whom he now +saw advancing on horseback, sucking her fingers at the same time, to +indicate that they were of her native tribe. As they advanced, Captain +Clark discovered among them Drewyer dressed like an Indian, from whom he +learned the situation of the party. While the boats were performing the +circuit, he went toward the forks with the Indians, who, as they went +along, sang aloud with the greatest appearance of delight. + +“We soon drew near the camp, and just as we approached it a woman made +her way through the crowd toward Sacajawea; recognizing each other, they +embraced with the most tender affection. The meeting of these two young +women had in it something peculiarly touching, not only from the ardent +manner in which their feelings were expressed, but also from the real +interest of their situation. They had been companions in childhood; in +the war with the Minnetarees they had both been taken prisoners in the +same battle; they had shared and softened the rigors of their captivity +till one of them had escaped from their enemies with scarce a hope of +ever seeing her friend rescued from their hands. + +“While Sacajawea was renewing among the women the friendships of former +days, Captain Clark went on, and was received by Captain Lewis and +the chief, who, after the first embraces and salutations were over, +conducted him to a sort of circular tent or shade of willows. Here he +was seated on a white robe; and the chief immediately tied in his hair +six small shells resembling pearls, an ornament highly valued by these +people, who procure them in the course of trade from the seacoast. +The moccasins of the whole party were then taken off, and, after much +ceremony, the smoking began. After this the conference was to be opened; +and, glad of an opportunity of being able to converse more intelligibly, +Sacajawea was sent for: she came into the tent, sat down, and was +beginning to interpret, when in the person of Cameahwait she recognized +her brother. She instantly jumped up, and ran and embraced him, throwing +over him her blanket, and weeping profusely: the chief was himself +moved, though not in the same degree. After some conversation between +them she resumed her seat, and attempted to interpret for us; but +her new situation seemed to overpower her, and she was frequently +interrupted by her tears. After the council was finished, the +unfortunate woman learned that all her family were dead except two +brothers, one of whom was absent, and a son of her eldest sister, a +small boy, who was immediately adopted by her.” + +The two parties, Indian and white, now went into a conference, the white +chiefs explaining that it would be needful for their Indian friends +to collect all their horses and help to transport the goods of the +explorers over the Great Divide. The journal says:-- + +“The speech made a favorable impression. The chief, in reply, thanked +us for our expressions of friendship toward himself and his nation, and +declared their willingness to render us every service. He lamented that +it would be so long before they should be supplied with firearms, +but that till then they could subsist as they had heretofore done. He +concluded by saying that there were not horses enough here to transport +our goods, but that he would return to the village to-morrow, bring all +his own horses, and encourage his people to come over with theirs. +The conference being ended to our satisfaction, we now inquired of +Cameahwait what chiefs were among the party, and he pointed out two of +them. We then distributed our presents: to Cameahwait we gave a medal of +small size, with the likeness of President Jefferson, and on the reverse +a figure of hands clasped with a pipe and tomahawk; to this was added an +uniform coat, a shirt, a pair of scarlet leggings, a carrot (or twist) +of tobacco, and some small articles. Each of the other chiefs received a +small medal struck during the presidency of General Washington, a shirt, +handkerchief, leggings, knife, and some tobacco. Medals of the same sort +were also presented to two young warriors, who, though not chiefs, were +promising youths and very much respected in the tribe. These honorary +gifts were followed by presents of paint, moccasins, awls, knives, +beads, and looking-glasses. We also gave them all a plentiful meal of +Indian corn, of which the hull is taken off by being boiled in lye; as +this was the first they had ever tasted, they were very much pleased +with it. They had, indeed, abundant sources of surprise in all they +saw--the appearance of the men, their arms, their clothing, the canoes, +the strange looks of the negro, and the sagacity of our dog, all in turn +shared their admiration, which was raised to astonishment by a shot from +the air-gun. This operation was instantly considered ‘great medicine,’ +by which they, as well as the other Indians, mean something emanating +directly from the Great Spirit, or produced by his invisible and +incomprehensible agency. . . . + +“After the council was over we consulted as to our future operations. +The game did not promise to last here for many days; and this +circumstance combined with many others to induce our going on as soon as +possible. Our Indian information as to the state of the Columbia was of +a very alarming kind; and our first object was, of course, to ascertain +the practicability of descending it, of which the Indians discouraged +our expectations. It was therefore agreed that Captain Clark should set +off in the morning with eleven men, furnished, besides their arms, with +tools for making canoes: that he should take Chaboneau and his wife +to the camp of the Shoshonees, where he was to leave them, in order to +hasten the collection of horses; that he should then lead his men +down to the Columbia, and if he found it navigable, and the timber in +sufficient quantity, begin to build canoes. As soon as he had decided +as to the propriety of proceeding down the Columbia or across the +mountains, he was to send back one of the men with information of it to +Captain Lewis, who by that time would have brought up the whole +party, and the rest of the baggage, as far as the Shoshonee village. +Preparations were accordingly made at once to carry out the +arrangement. . . .” + +“In order to relieve the men of Captain Clark’s party from the heavy +weight of their arms, provisions, and tools, we exposed a few articles +to barter for horses, and soon obtained three very good ones, in +exchange for which we gave a uniform coat, a pair of leggings, a few +handkerchiefs, three knives, and some other small articles, the whole +of which did not, in the United States, cost more than twenty dollars; +a fourth was purchased by the men for an old checkered shirt, a pair +of old leggings, and a knife. The Indians seemed to be quite as well +pleased as ourselves at the bargain they had made. We now found that the +two inferior chiefs were somewhat displeased at not having received a +present equal to that given to the great chief, who appeared in a dress +so much finer than their own. To allay their discontent, we bestowed on +them two old coats, and promised them if they were active in assisting +us across the mountains they should have an additional present. This +treatment completely reconciled them, and the whole Indian party, except +two men and two women, set out in perfect good humor to return to their +home with Captain Clark.” + + + + +Chapter XIV -- Across the Great Divide + +Captain Clark had now left the water-shed of the Missouri behind him, +and was pressing on, over a broken, hilly country, to the lands from +which issue the tributaries of the Columbia. The Indian village which +Captain Lewis had previously visited had been removed two miles up the +stream on which it was situated, and was reached by Clark on August 20. +The party was very ceremoniously received by Chief Cameahwait, and +all hands began to explain to the white men the difficulties of the +situation. How to transport the canoes and baggage over the mountains +to some navigable stream leading into the Columbia was now the serious +problem. The Indian chief and his old men dwelt on the obstacles in the +way and argued that it was too late in the season to make the attempt. +They even urged the white men to stay with them until another spring, +when Indian guides would be furnished them to proceed on their journey +westward. + +On the twenty-first, Clark passed the junction of two streams, the +Salmon and the Lemhi, which is now the site of Salmon City, Idaho. As +Captain Lewis was the first white man who had seen these waters, +Clark gave to the combined water-course the name of Lewis’ River. The +mountains here assumed a formidable aspect, and the stream was too +narrow, rapid, and rock-bound to admit of navigation. The journal says +of Captain Clark:-- + +“He soon began to perceive that the Indian accounts had not been +exaggerated. At the distance of a mile he passed a small creek (on the +right), and the points of four mountains, which were rocky, and so high +that it seemed almost impossible to cross them with horses. The road lay +over the sharp fragments of rocks which had fallen from the mountains, +and were strewed in heaps for miles together; yet the horses, altogether +unshod, travelled across them as fast as the men, without detaining them +a moment. They passed two bold running streams, and reached the entrance +of a small river, where a few Indian families resided, who had not been +previously acquainted with the arrival of the whites; the guide was +behind, and the woods were so thick that we came upon them unobserved, +till at a very short distance. As soon as they saw us the women and +children fled in great consternation; the men offered us everything they +had--the fish on the scaffolds, the dried berries, and the collars of +elks’ tushes worn by the children. We took only a small quantity of the +food, and gave them in return some small articles which conduced very +much to pacify them. The guide now coming up, explained to them who we +were and the object of our visit, which seemed to relieve their fears; +still a number of the women and children did not recover from their +fright, but cried during our stay, which lasted about an hour. The +guide, whom we found a very intelligent, friendly old man, informed us +that up this river there was a road which led over the mountains to the +Missouri.” + +To add to their difficulties, game had almost entirely disappeared, and +the abundant fish in the river could not be caught for lack of proper +fishing-tackle. Timber from which canoes could be made, there was none, +and the rapids in the rivers were sharp and violent. With his Indian +guide and three men, Captain Clark now pressed on his route of survey, +leaving the remainder of his men behind to hunt and fish. He went down +the Salmon River about fifty-two miles, making his way as best he could +along its banks. Finding the way absolutely blocked for their purposes, +Captain Clark returned on the twenty-fifth of August and rejoined the +party that he had left behind. These had not been able to kill anything, +and for a time starvation stared them in the face. Under date of August +27, the journal says:-- + +“The men, who were engaged last night in mending their moccasins, all +except one, went out hunting, but no game was to be procured. One of the +men, however, killed a small salmon, and the Indians made a present of +another, on which the whole party made a very slight breakfast. These +Indians, to whom this life is familiar, seem contented, although they +depend for subsistence on the scanty productions of the fishery. But +our men, who are used to hardships, but have been accustomed to have +the first wants of nature regularly supplied, feel very sensibly their +wretched situation; their strength is wasting away; they begin to +express their apprehensions of being without food in a country perfectly +destitute of any means of supporting life, except a few fish. In the +course of the day an Indian brought into the camp five salmon, two of +which Captain Clark bought and made a supper for the party.” + +Two days later, Captain Clark and his men joined the main party, having +met the only repulse that was suffered by the expedition from first to +last. Eluding the vigilance of the Indians, caches, or hiding-places, +for the baggage were constructed, filled, and concealed, the work being +done after dark. The weather was now very cold, although August had +not passed. Ink froze in the pen during the night, and the meadows were +white with frost; but the days were warm, even hot. + +In the absence of Captain Clark, his colleague and party had been +visited by Cameahwait and about fifty of his band, with their women and +children. Captain Lewis’ journal says:-- + +“After they had camped near us and turned loose their horses, we called +a council of all the chiefs and warriors, and addressed them in a +speech. Additional presents were then distributed, particularly to +the two second chiefs, who had, agreeably to their promises, exerted +themselves in our favor. The council was then adjourned, and all the +Indians were treated with an abundant meal of boiled Indian corn and +beans. The poor wretches, who had no animal food and scarcely anything +but a few fish, had been almost starved, and received this new luxury +with great thankfulness. Out of compliment to the chief, we gave him +a few dried squashes, which we had brought from the Mandans, and he +declared it was the best food he had ever tasted except sugar, a small +lump of which he had received from his sister Sacajawea. He now declared +how happy they should all be to live in a country which produced so many +good things; and we told him that it would not be long before the white +men would put it in their power to live below the mountains, where they +might themselves cultivate all these kinds of food, instead of wandering +in the mountains. He appeared to be much pleased with this information, +and the whole party being now in excellent temper after their repast, we +began our purchase of horses. We soon obtained five very good ones, on +very reasonable terms--that is, by giving for each horse merchandise +which cost us originally about $6. We have again to admire the perfect +decency and propriety of the Indians; for though so numerous, they do +not attempt to crowd round our camp or take anything which they see +lying about, and whenever they borrow knives or kettles or any other +article from the men, they return them with great fidelity.” + +Captain Lewis anxiously wished to push on to meet Clark, who, as we +have seen, was then far down on the Salmon River. Lewis was still at +the forks of Jefferson River, it should be borne in mind; and their +objective point was the upper Shoshonee village on the Lemhi River, +across the divide. While on the way over the divide, Lewis was greatly +troubled by the freaks of the Indians, who, regardless of their +promises, would propose to return to the buffalo country on the eastern +side of the mountains. Learning that Cameahwait and his chiefs had sent +a messenger over to the Lemhi to notify the village to come and join an +expedition of this sort, Captain Lewis was dismayed. His journal says:-- + +“Alarmed at this new caprice of the Indians, which, if not counteracted, +threatened to leave ourselves and our baggage on the mountains, or +even if we reached the waters of the Columbia, to prevent our obtaining +horses to go on further, Captain Lewis immediately called the three +chiefs together. After smoking a pipe he asked them if they were men +of their word, and if we could rely on their promises. They readily +answered in the affirmative. He then asked if they had not agreed to +assist us in carrying our baggage over the mountains. To this they also +answered yes. ‘Why, then,’ said he, ‘have you requested your people +to meet us to-morrow where it will be impossible for us to trade for +horses, as you promised we should? If,’ he continued, ‘you had not +promised to help us in transporting our goods over the mountains, we +should not have attempted it, but have returned down the river; after +which no white men would ever have come into your country. If you wish +the whites to be your friends, to bring you arms, and to protect you +from your enemies, you should never promise what you do not mean +to perform. When I first met you, you doubted what I said, yet you +afterward saw that I told you the truth. How, therefore, can you doubt +what I now tell you? You see that I divide amongst you the meat which +my hunters kill, and I promise to give all who assist us a share of +whatever we have to eat. If, therefore, you intend to keep your promise, +send one of the young men immediately, to order the people to remain at +the village till we arrive.’ The two inferior chiefs then said that they +had wished to keep their word and to assist us; that they had not sent +for the people, but on the contrary had disapproved of that measure, +which was done wholly by the first chief. Cameahwait remained silent +for some time; at last he said that he knew he had done wrong, but that, +seeing his people all in want of provisions, he had wished to hasten +their departure for the country where their wants might be supplied. +He, however, now declared that, having passed his word, he would never +violate it, and counter-orders were immediately sent to the village by +a young man, to whom we gave a handkerchief in order to ensure despatch +and fidelity. . . . + +“This difficulty being now adjusted, our march was resumed with an +unusual degree of alacrity on the part of the Indians. We passed a spot +where, six years ago, the Shoshonees had suffered a very severe defeat +from the Minnetarees; and late in the evening we reached the upper part +of the cove, where the creek enters the mountains. The part of the cove +on the northeast side of the creek has lately been burned, most probably +as a signal on some occasion. Here we were joined by our hunters with a +single deer, which Captain Lewis gave, as a proof of his sincerity, +to the women and children, and remained supperless himself. As we came +along we observed several large hares, some ducks, and many of the cock +of the plains: in the low grounds of the cove were also considerable +quantities of wild onions.” + +Arriving at the Shoshonee village on the Lemhi, Captain Lewis found a +note from Captain Clark, sent back by a runner, informing him of +the difficulty and impossibility of a water route to the Columbia. +Cameahwait, being told that his white friends would now need twenty more +horses, said that he would do what he could to help them. The journal +here adds:-- + +“In order not to lose the present favorable moment, and to keep the +Indians as cheerful as possible, the violins were brought out and our +men danced, to the great diversion of the Indians. This mirth was the +more welcome because our situation was not precisely that which would +most dispose us to gayety; for we have only a little parched corn to +eat, and our means of subsistence or of success depend on the wavering +temper of the natives, who may change their minds to-morrow. . . . + +“The Shoshonees are a small tribe of the nation called the Snake +Indians, a vague appellation, which embraces at once the inhabitants of +the southern parts of the Rocky Mountains and of the plains on either +side. The Shoshonees with whom we now were amount to about one hundred +warriors, and three times that number of women and children. Within +their own recollection they formerly lived in the plains, but they have +been driven into the mountains by the Pahkees, or the roving Indians +of the Sascatchawan, and are now obliged to visit occasionally, and +by stealth, the country of their ancestors. Their lives, indeed, are +migratory. From the middle of May to the beginning of September they +reside on the headwaters of the Columbia, where they consider themselves +perfectly secure from the Pahkees, who have never yet found their way to +that retreat. During this time they subsist chiefly on salmon, and, as +that fish disappears on the approach of autumn, they are driven to seek +subsistence elsewhere. They then cross the ridge to the waters of the +Missouri, down which they proceed slowly and cautiously, till they are +joined near the Three Forks by other bands, either of their own nation +or of the Flatheads, with whom they associate against the common enemy. +Being now strong in numbers, they venture to hunt the buffalo in the +plains eastward of the mountains, near which they spend the winter, till +the return of the salmon invites them to the Columbia. But such is their +terror of the Pahkees, that, so long as they can obtain the scantiest +subsistence, they do not leave the interior of the mountains; and, as +soon as they have collected a large stock of dried meat, they again +retreat, thus alternately obtaining their food at the hazard of their +lives, and hiding themselves to consume it. + +“In this loose and wandering life they suffer the extremes of want; for +two thirds of the year they are forced to live in the mountains, passing +whole weeks without meat, and with nothing to eat but a few fish and +roots. Nor can anything be imagined more wretched than their condition +at the present time, when the salmon is fast retiring, when roots are +becoming scarce, and they have not yet acquired strength to hazard an +encounter with their enemies. So insensible are they, however, to these +calamities, that the Shoshonees are not only cheerful, but even gay; and +their character, which is more interesting than that of any Indians +we have seen, has in it much of the dignity of misfortune. In their +intercourse with strangers they are frank and communicative; in their +dealings they are perfectly fair; nor have we, during our stay with +them, had any reason to suspect that the display of all our new and +valuable wealth has tempted them into a single act of dishonesty. While +they have generally shared with us the little they possess, they have +always abstained from begging anything from us. With their liveliness +of temper, they are fond of gaudy dresses and all sorts of amusements, +particularly games of hazard; and, like most Indians, delight in +boasting of their warlike exploits, either real or fictitious. In their +conduct towards us they have been kind and obliging; and though on one +occasion they seemed willing to neglect us, yet we scarcely knew how to +blame the treatment by which we were to suffer, when we recollected how +few civilized chiefs would have hazarded the comforts or the subsistence +of their people for the sake of a few strangers. . . . . . . . . . + +“As war is the chief occupation, bravery is the first virtue among +the Shoshonees. None can hope to be distinguished without having given +proofs of it, nor can there be any preferment or influence among the +nation, without some warlike achievement. Those important events which +give reputation to a warrior, and entitle him to a new name, are: +killing a white (or grizzly) bear, stealing individually the horses +of the enemy, leading a party who happen to be successful either in +plundering horses or destroying the enemy, and lastly, scalping a +warrior. These acts seem of nearly equal dignity, but the last, that +of taking an enemy’s scalp, is an honor quite independent of the act of +vanquishing him. To kill your adversary is of no importance unless the +scalp is brought from the field of battle; were a warrior to slay any +number of his enemies in action, and others were to obtain the scalps +or first touch the dead, they would have all the honors, since they have +borne off the trophy. . . .” + +“The names of these Indians vary in the course of their life. Originally +given in childhood, from the mere necessity of distinguishing objects, +or from some accidental resemblance to external objects, the young +warrior is impatient to change it by some achievement of his own. Any +important event--the stealing of horses, the scalping of an enemy, or +the killing of a brown bear--entitles him at once to a new name, +which he then selects for himself, and it is confirmed by the nation. +Sometimes the two names subsist together; thus, the chief Cameahwait, +which means ‘One Who Never Walks,’ has the war-name of Tooettecone, or +‘Black Gun,’ which he acquired when he first signalized himself. As each +new action gives a warrior a right to change his name, many of them have +several in the course of their lives. To give to a friend one’s own name +is an act of high courtesy, and a pledge, like that of pulling off the +moccasin, of sincerity and hospitality. The chief in this way gave his +name to Captain Clark when he first arrived, and he was afterward known +among the Shoshonees by the name of Cameahwait.” + +On the thirtieth of August, the whole expedition being now reunited, and +a sufficient number of horses having been purchased of the Shoshonees, +the final start across the mountains was begun. The journal says: + +“The greater part of the band, who had delayed their journey on our +account, were also ready to depart. We took leave of the Shoshonees, +who set out on their visit to the Missouri at the same time that we, +accompanied by the old guide, his four sons, and another Indian, began +the descent of the Lemhi River, along the same road which Captain Clark +had previously pursued. After riding twelve miles we camped on the south +bank of this river, and as the hunters had brought in three deer early +in the morning, we did not feel the want of provisions.” + +Three days later, all the Indians, except the old guide, left them. +They now passed up Fish Creek, and finding no track leading over the +mountains they cut their way. Their journal says:-- + +“This we effected with much difficulty; the thickets of trees and brush +through which we were obliged to cut our way required great labor; the +road itself was over the steep and rocky sides of the hills, where the +horses could not move without danger of slipping down, while their +feet were bruised by the rocks and stumps of trees. Accustomed as these +animals were to this kind of life, they suffered severely; several of +them fell to some distance down the sides of the hills, some turned over +with the baggage, one was crippled, and two gave out, exhausted with +fatigue. After crossing the creek several times we at last made five +miles, with great fatigue and labor, and camped on the left side of the +creek in a small stony low ground. It was not, however, till after dark +that the whole party was collected; and then, as it rained and we had +killed nothing, we passed an uncomfortable night. The party had been +too busily occupied with the horses to make any hunting excursion; and +though, as we came along Fish Creek, we saw many beaver-dams, we saw +none of the animals themselves.” + +The Indian guide appears here to have lost his way; but, not dismayed, +he pushed on through a trackless wilderness, sometimes travelling on +the snow that now covered the mountains. On the fourth of September, the +party came upon a large encampment of Indians, who received them with +much ceremony. The journal says:-- + +“September 5, we assembled the chiefs and warriors, and informed them +who we were, and the purpose for which we had visited their country. All +this was, however, conveyed to them through so many different languages, +that it was not comprehended without difficulty. We therefore proceeded +to the more intelligible language of presents, and made four chiefs by +giving a medal and a small quantity of tobacco to each. We received in +turn from the principal chief a present consisting of the skins of a +blaireau (badger), an otter, and two antelopes, and were treated by +the women to some dried roots and berries. We then began to traffic for +horses, and succeeded in exchanging seven and purchasing eleven, for +which we gave a few articles of merchandise. + +“This encampment consists of thirty-three tents, in which were about +four hundred souls, among whom eighty were men. They are called +Ootlashoots, and represent themselves as one band of a nation called +Tushepaws, a numerous people of four hundred and fifty tents, residing +on the head-waters of the Missouri and Columbia rivers, and some of +them lower down the latter river. In person these Indians are stout, and +their complexion lighter than that common among Indians. The hair of +the men is worn in queues of otter skin, falling in front over the +shoulders. A shirt of dressed skin covers the body to the knee, and +over this is worn occasionally a robe. To these are added leggings and +moccasins. The women suffer their hair to fall in disorder over the face +and shoulders, and their chief article of covering is a long shirt of +skin, reaching down to the ankles, and tied round the waist. In other +respects, as also in the few ornaments which they possess, their +appearance is similar to that of the Shoshonees: there is, however, a +difference between the languages of these two people, which is still +farther increased by the very extraordinary pronunciation of the +Ootlashoots. Their words have all a remarkably guttural sound, and there +is nothing which seems to represent the tone of their speaking more +exactly than the clucking of a fowl or the noise of a parrot. This +peculiarity renders their voices scarcely audible, except at a short +distance; and, when many of them are talking, forms a strange confusion +of sounds. The common conversation that we overheard consisted of low, +guttural sounds, occasionally broken by a low word or two, after which +it would relapse, and could scarcely be distinguished. They seemed kind +and friendly, and willingly shared with us berries and roots, which +formed their sole stock of provisions. Their only wealth is their +horses, which are very fine, and so numerous that this party had with +them at least five hundred.” + +These Indians were on their way to join the other bands who were hunting +buffalo on the Jefferson River, across the Great Divide. They set out +the next morning, and the explorers resumed their toilsome journey, +travelling generally in a northwesterly direction and looking for a pass +across the Bitter Root Mountains. Very soon, all indications of game +disappeared, and, September 14, they were forced to kill a colt, their +stock of animal food being exhausted. They pressed on, however, through +a savage wilderness, having frequent need to recur to horse-flesh. Here +is an entry under date of September 18, in the journal: “We melted some +snow, and supped on a little portable soup, a few canisters of which, +with about twenty pounds’ weight of bear’s oil, are our only remaining +means of subsistence. Our guns are scarcely of any service, for there is +no living creature in these mountains, except a few small pheasants, +a small species of gray squirrel, and a blue bird of the vulture kind, +about the size of a turtle-dove, or jay. Even these are difficult to +shoot.” + +“A bold running creek,” up which Captain Clark passed on September 19, +was appropriately named by him “Hungry Creek,” as at that place they had +nothing to eat. But, at about six miles’ distance from the head of the +stream, “he fortunately found a horse, on which he breakfasted, and hung +the rest on a tree for the party in the rear.” This was one of the wild +horses, strayed from Indian bands, which they found in the wilderness, +too wild to be caught and used, but not too wild to shoot and eat. +Later, on the same day, this entry is made in the journal: + +“The road along the creek is a narrow rocky path near the borders +of very high precipices, from which a fall seems almost inevitable +destruction. One of our horses slipped and rolled over with his load +down the hillside, which was nearly perpendicular and strewed with large +irregular rocks, nearly one hundred yards, and did not stop till he fell +into the creek. We all expected he was killed, but to our astonishment, +on taking off his load he rose, seemed but little injured, and in twenty +minutes proceeded with his load. Having no other provision, we took some +portable soup, our only refreshment during the day. This abstinence, +joined with fatigue, has a visible effect on our health. The men are +growing weak and losing their flesh very fast; several are afflicted +with dysentery, and eruptions of the skin are very common.” + +Next day, the party descended the last of the Bitter Root range and +reached level country. They were at last over the Great Divide. Three +Indian boys were discovered hiding in the grass, in great alarm. Captain +Clark at once dismounted from his horse, and, making signs of amity, +went after the boys. He calmed their terrors, and, giving them some bits +of ribbon, sent them home. + +“Soon after the boys reached home, a man came out to meet the party, +with great caution; but he conducted them to a large tent in the +village, and all the inhabitants gathered round to view with a mixture +of fear and pleasure these wonderful strangers. The conductor now +informed Captain Clark, by signs, that the spacious tent was the +residence of the great chief, who had set out three days ago with all +the warriors to attack some of their enemies toward the southwest; that +he would not return before fifteen or eighteen days, and that in +the mean time there were only a few men left to guard the women and +children. They now set before them a small piece of buffalo-meat, some +dried salmon, berries, and several kinds of roots. Among these last is +one which is round, much like an onion in appearance, and sweet to the +taste. It is called quamash, and is eaten either in its natural state, +or boiled into a kind of soup, or made into a cake, which is then called +pasheco. After the long abstinence this was a sumptuous treat. They +returned the kindness of the people by a few small presents, and then +went on in company with one of the chiefs to a second village in the +same plain, at the distance of two miles. Here the party were treated +with great kindness, and passed the night. The hunters were sent out, +but, though they saw some tracks of deer, were not able to procure +anything.” + +The root which the Indians used in so many ways is now known as camas; +it is still much sought for by the Nez Perces and other wandering tribes +in the Northwest, and Camas Prairie, in that region, derives its name +from the much-sought-for vegetable. + +Captain Clark and his men stayed with these hospitable Indians several +days. The free use of wholesome food, to which he had not lately been +accustomed, made Clark very ill, and he contented himself with staying +in the Indian villages, of which there were two. These Indians called +themselves Chopunnish, or Pierced Noses; this latter name is now more +commonly rendered _Nez Perces_, the French voyageurs having given it that +translation into their own tongue. But these people, so far as known, +did not pierce their noses. After sending a man back on the trail to +notify Captain Lewis of his progress, Captain Clark went on to the +village of Chief Twisted-hair. Most of the women and children, +though notified of the coming of the white man, were so scared by +the appearance of the strangers that they fled to the woods. The men, +however, received them without fear and gave them a plentiful supply +of food. They were now on one of the upper branches of the Kooskooskee +River, near what is the site of Pierce City, county seat of Shoshonee +County, Idaho. The Indians endeavored, by means of signs, to explain to +their visitors the geography of the country beyond. + +“Among others, Twisted-hair drew a chart of the river on a white +elk-skin. According to this, the Kooskooskee forks (confluence of its +North fork) a few miles from this place; two days toward the south +is another and larger fork (confluence of Snake River), on which the +Shoshonee or Snake Indians fish; five days’ journey further is a large +river from the northwest (that is, the Columbia itself) into which +Clark’s River empties; from the mouth of that river (that is, confluence +of the Snake with the Columbia) to the falls is five days’ journey +further; on all the forks as well as on the main river great numbers of +Indians reside.” + +On the twenty-third of September, Captain Lewis and his party having +come up, the white men assembled the Indians and explained to them +where they came from and what was their errand across the continent. The +Indians appeared to be entirely satisfied, and they sold their visitors +as much provisions as their half-famished horses could carry. The +journal here says:-- + +“All around the village the women are busily employed in gathering and +dressing the pasheco-root, of which large quantities are heaped in piles +over the plain. We now felt severely the consequence of eating heartily +after our late privations. Captain Lewis and two of the men were taken +very ill last evening; to-day he could hardly sit on his horse, while +others were obliged to be put on horseback, and some, from extreme +weakness and pain, were forced to lie down alongside of the road for +some time. At sunset we reached the island where the hunters had been +left on the 22d. They had been unsuccessful, having killed only two deer +since that time, and two of them were very sick. A little below this +island is a larger one on which we camped, and administered Rush’s pills +to the sick.” + +The illness of the party continued for several days, and not much +progress was made down-stream. Having camped, on the twenty-seventh of +September, in the Kooskooskee River, at a place where plenty of good +timber was found, preparations for building five canoes were begun. From +this time to the fifth of October, all the men capable of labor were +employed in preparing the canoes. The health of the party gradually +recruited, though they still suffered severely from want of food; and, +as the hunters had but little success in procuring game, they were +obliged on the second to kill one of their horses. Indians from +different quarters frequently visited them, but all that could be +obtained from them was a little fish and some dried roots. This diet was +not only unnutritious, but in many cases it caused dysentery and nausea. + + + + +Chapter XV -- Down the Pacific Slope + +The early days of October were spent in making preparations for the +descent of the river,--the Kooskooskee. Here they made their canoes, and +they called their stopping-place Canoe Camp. This was at the junction +of the north fork of the river with the main stream; and all below that +point is called the Lower Kooskooskee, while that above is known as the +upper river. The latitude of the camp, according to the journal of the +explorers, was 46'0 34’ 56” north. Here they buried in a cache their +saddles, horse-gear, and a small supply of powder and musket balls for +possible emergencies. The Kooskooskee, it should be borne in mind, is +now better known as the Clearwater; it empties into the Snake River, and +that into the Columbia. As far as the explorers knew the water-course +down which they were to navigate, they called it Clark’s River, in honor +of Captain Clark. But modern geographers have displaced the name of that +eminent explorer and map-maker and have divided the stream, or streams, +with other nomenclature. + +On the eighth of October the party set out on their long water journey +in five canoes, one of which was a small craft intended to go on ahead +and pilot the way (which, of course, was unknown) for the four larger +ones, in which travelled the main party with their luggage. They met +with disaster very soon after their start, one of the canoes having +struck a rock, which made a hole in its side and caused the sinking +of the craft. Fortunately, no lives were lost, but the voyage was +interrupted. The party went ashore and did not resume their journey +until their luggage was dried and the canoe repaired. On the ninth, says +the journal:-- + +“The morning was as usual cool; but as the weather both yesterday and +to-day was cloudy, our merchandise dried but slowly. The boat, though +much injured, was repaired by ten o’clock so as to be perfectly fit for +service; but we were obliged to remain during the day till the articles +were sufficiently dry to be reloaded. The interval we employed in +purchasing fish for the voyage, and conversing with the Indians. In the +afternoon we were surprised at hearing that our old Shoshonee guide and +his son had left us and had been seen running up the river several miles +above. As he had never given any notice of his intention, nor had even +received his pay for guiding us, we could not imagine the cause of his +desertion; nor did he ever return to explain his conduct. We requested +the chief to send a horseman after him to request that he would return +and receive what we owed him. From this, however, he dissuaded us, and +said very frankly that his nation, the Chopunnish, would take from +the old man any presents that he might have on passing their camp. The +Indians came about our camp at night, and were very gay and good-humored +with the men. Among other exhibitions was that of a squaw who appeared +to be crazy. She sang in a wild, incoherent manner, and offered to the +spectators all the little articles she possessed, scarifying herself +in a horrid manner if anyone refused her present. She seemed to be an +object of pity among the Indians, who suffered her to do as she pleased +without interruption.” + +The river was full of rapids and very dangerous rocks and reefs, and +the voyagers were able to make only twenty miles a day for some distance +along the stream. At the confluence of the Kooskooskee and the Snake +River they camped for the night, near the present site of Lewiston, +Idaho. This city, first settled in May, 1861, and incorporated in 1863, +was named for Captain Lewis of our expedition. From this point the party +crossed over into the present State of Washington. Of their experience +at their camp here the journal says:-- + +“Our arrival soon attracted the attention of the Indians, who flocked in +all directions to see us. In the evening the Indian from the falls, whom +we had seen at Rugged rapid, joined us with his son in a small canoe, +and insisted on accompanying us to the falls. Being again reduced to +fish and roots, we made an experiment to vary our food by purchasing +a few dogs, and after having been accustomed to horse-flesh, felt no +disrelish for this new dish. The Chopunnish have great numbers of dogs, +which they employ for domestic purposes, but never eat; and our using +the flesh of that animal soon brought us into ridicule as dog-eaters.” + +When Fremont and his men crossed the continent to California, in 1842, +they ate the flesh of that species of marmot which we know as the +prairie-dog. Long afterwards, when Fremont was a candidate for the +office of President of the United States, this fact was recalled to the +minds of men, and the famous explorer was denounced as “a dog-eater.” + +The journal of the explorers gives this interesting account of the +Indians among whom they now found themselves:-- + +“The Chopunnish or Pierced-nose nation, who reside on the Kooskooskee +and Lewis’ (Snake) rivers, are in person stout, portly, well-looking +men; the women are small, with good features and generally handsome, +though the complexion of both sexes is darker than that of the +Tushepaws. In dress they resemble that nation, being fond of displaying +their ornaments. The buffalo or elk-skin robe decorated with beads; +sea-shells, chiefly mother-of-pearl, attached to an otter-skin collar +and hung in the hair, which falls in front in two cues; feathers, paints +of different kinds, principally white, green, and light blue, all of +which they find in their own country; these are the chief ornaments +they use. In the winter they wear a short skirt of dressed skins, long +painted leggings and moccasins, and a plait of twisted grass round the +neck. The dress of the women is more simple, consisting of a long shirt +of argalia (argali) or ibex (bighorn) skin, reaching down to the ankles, +without a girdle; to this are tied little pieces of brass, shells, and +other small articles; but the head is not at all ornamented. + +“The Chopunnish have very few amusements, for their life is painful +and laborious; all their exertions are necessary to earn even their +precarious subsistence. During the summer and autumn they are busily +occupied in fishing for salmon and collecting their winter store of +roots. In winter they hunt the deer on snow-shoes over the plains, and +toward spring cross the mountains to the Missouri for the purpose of +rafficking for buffalo-robe. The inconveniences of their comfortless +life are increased by frequent encounters with their enemies from the +west, who drive them over the mountains with the loss of their horses, +and sometimes the lives of many of the nation.” + +After making a short stage on their journey, October 11, the party +stopped to trade with the Indians, their stock of provisions being low. +They were able to purchase a quantity of salmon and seven dogs. They +saw here a novel kind of vapor bath which is thus described in the +journal:-- + +“While this traffic was going on we observed a vapor bath or +sweating-house, in a different form from that used on the frontier of +the United States or in the Rocky Mountains. It was a hollow square six +or eight feet deep, formed in the river bank by damming up with mud the +other three sides and covering the whole completely, except an aperture +about two feet wide at the top. The bathers descend by this hole, taking +with them a number of heated stones and jugs of water; after being +seated round the room they throw the water on the stones till the steam +becomes of a temperature sufficiently high for their purposes. The baths +of the Indians in the Rocky Mountains are of different sizes, the +most common being made of mud and sticks like an oven, but the mode of +raising the steam is exactly the same. Among both these nations it is +very uncommon for a man to bathe alone; he is generally accompanied +by one or sometimes several of his acquaintances; indeed, it is so +essentially a social amusement, that to decline going in to bathe when +invited by a friend is one of the highest indignities which can be +offered to him. The Indians on the frontier generally use a bath which +will accommodate only one person, formed of a wicker-work of willows +about four feet high, arched at the top, and covered with skins. In this +the patient sits, till by means of the heated stones and water he +has perspired sufficiently. Almost universally these baths are in the +neighborhood of running water, into which the Indians plunge immediately +on coming out of the vapor bath, and sometimes return again and subject +themselves to a second perspiration. This practice is, however, less +frequent among our neighboring nations than those to the westward. +This bath is employed either for pleasure or for health, and is used +indiscriminately for all kinds of diseases.” + +The expedition was now on the Snake River, making all possible speed +toward the Columbia, commonly known to the Indians as “The Great River.” + The stream was crowded with dangerous rapids, and sundry disasters were +met with by the way; thus, on the fourteenth of October, a high wind +blowing, one of the canoes was driven upon a rock sidewise and filled +with water. The men on board got out and dragged the canoe upon the +rock, where they held her above water. Another canoe, having been +unloaded, was sent to the relief of the shipwrecked men, who, after +being left on the rock for some time, were taken off without any other +loss than the bedding of two of them. But accidents like this delayed +the party, as they were forced to land and remain long enough to dry +the goods that had been exposed to the water. Several such incidents are +told in the journal of the explorers. Few Indians were to be seen along +the banks of the river, but occasionally the party came to a pile of +planks and timbers which were the materials from which were built the +houses of such Indians as came here in the fishing season to catch +a supply for the winter and for trading purposes. Occasionally, the +complete scarcity of fuel compelled the explorers to depart from their +general rule to avoid taking any Indian property without leave; and they +used some of these house materials for firewood, with the intent to pay +the rightful owners, if they should ever be found. On the sixteenth of +October, they met with a party of Indians, of whom the journal gives +this account:-- + +“After crossing by land we halted for dinner, and whilst we were eating +were visited by five Indians, who came up the river on foot in great +haste. We received them kindly, smoked with them, and gave them a piece +of tobacco to smoke with their tribe. On receiving the present they set +out to return, and continued running as fast as they could while they +remained in sight. Their curiosity had been excited by the accounts of +our two chiefs, who had gone on in order to apprise the tribes of our +approach and of our friendly disposition toward them. After dinner we +reloaded the canoes and proceeded. We soon passed a rapid opposite the +upper point of a sandy island on the left, which has a smaller island +near it. At three miles is a gravelly bar in the river; four miles +beyond this the Kimooenim (Snake) empties into the Columbia, and at its +mouth has an island just below a small rapid. + +“We halted above the point of junction, on the Kimooenim, to confer +with the Indians, who had collected in great numbers to receive us. On +landing we were met by our two chiefs, to whose good offices we were +indebted for this reception, and also the two Indians who had passed +us a few days since on horseback; one of whom appeared to be a man of +influence, and harangued the Indians on our arrival. After smoking with +the Indians, we formed a camp at the point where the two rivers unite, +near to which we found some driftwood, and were supplied by our two old +chiefs with the stalks of willows and some small bushes for fuel. + +“We had scarcely fixed the camp and got the fires prepared, when a chief +came from the Indian camp about a quarter of a mile up the Columbia, at +the head of nearly two hundred men. They formed a regular procession, +keeping time to the music, or, rather, noise of their drums, which +they accompanied with their voices; and as they advanced, they ranged +themselves in a semicircle around us, and continued singing for some +time. We then smoked with them all, and communicated, as well as we +could by signs, our friendly intentions towards every nation, and our +joy at finding ourselves surrounded by our children. After this we +proceeded to distribute presents among them, giving the principal chief +a large medal, a shirt, and a handkerchief; to the second chief, a medal +of a smaller size; and to a third, who had come down from some of the +upper villages, a small medal and a handkerchief. This ceremony being +concluded, they left us; but in the course of the afternoon several of +them returned, and remained with us till a late hour. After they had +dispersed, we proceeded to purchase provisions, and were enabled to +collect seven dogs, to which some of the Indians added small presents of +fish, and one of them gave us twenty pounds of fat dried horse-flesh.” + +The explorers were still in the country which is now the State of +Washington, at a point where the counties of Franklin, Yakima, and Walla +Walla come together, at the junction of the Snake and the Columbia. We +quote now from the journal:-- + +“From the point of junction the country is a continued plain, low near +the water, from which it rises gradually, and the only elevation to be +seen is a range of high country running from northeast to southwest, +where it joins a range of mountains from the southwest, and is on the +opposite side about two miles from the Columbia. There is on this plain +no tree, and scarcely any shrubs, except a few willow-bushes; even of +smaller plants there is not much more than the prickly-pear, which is +in great abundance, and is even more thorny and troublesome than any +we have yet seen. During this time the principal chief came down with +several of his warriors, and smoked with us. We were also visited by +several men and women, who offered dogs and fish for sale; but as +the fish was out of season, and at present abundant in the river, we +contented ourselves with purchasing all the dogs we could obtain. + +“The nation among which we now are call themselves Sokulks; with them +are united a few of another nation, who reside on a western branch which +empties into the Columbia a few miles above the mouth of the latter +river, and whose name is Chimnapum. The languages of these two nations, +of each of which we obtained a vocabulary, differ but little from each +other, or from that of the Chopunnish who inhabit the Kooskooskee and +Lewis’ rivers. In their dress and general appearance they also much +resemble those nations; the men wearing a robe of deer- antelope-skin, +under which a few of them have a short leathern shirt. The most striking +difference is among the females, the Sokulk women being more inclined to +corpulency than any we have yet seen. Their stature is low, their faces +are broad, and their heads flattened in such a manner that the forehead +is in a straight line from the nose to the crown of the head. Their +eyes are of a dirty sable, their hair is coarse and black, and braided +without ornament of any kind. Instead of wearing, as do the Chopunnish, +long leathern shirts highly decorated with beads and shells, the Sokulk +women have no other covering but a truss or piece of leather tied round +the hips, and drawn tight between the legs. The ornaments usually worn +by both sexes are large blue or white beads, either pendant from their +ears, or round the neck, wrists, and arms; they have likewise bracelets +of brass, copper, and horn, and some trinkets of shells, fishbones, and +curious feathers. + +“The houses of the Sokulks are made of large mats of rushes, and are +generally of a square or oblong form, varying in length from fifteen to +sixty feet, and supported in the inside by poles or forks about six feet +high. The top is covered with mats, leaving a space of twelve or fifteen +inches the whole length of the house, for the purpose of admitting the +light and suffering the smoke to escape. The roof is nearly flat, which +seems to indicate that rains are not common in this open country; and +the house is not divided into apartments, the fire being in the middle +of the enclosure, and immediately under the bole in the roof. The +interior is ornamented with their nets, gigs, and other fishing-tackle, +as well as the bow of each inmate, and a large quiver of arrows, which +are headed with flint. + +“The Sokulks seem to be of a mild and peaceable disposition, and live in +a state of comparative happiness. The men, like those on the Kimooenim, +are said to content themselves with a single wife, with whom the +husband, we observe, shares the labors of procuring subsistence much +more than is common among savages. What may be considered an unequivocal +proof of their good disposition, is the great respect which is shown to +old age. Among other marks of it, we noticed in one of the houses an +old woman perfectly blind, and who, we were told, had lived more than +a hundred winters. In this state of decrepitude, she occupied the best +position in the house, seemed to be treated with great kindness, and +whatever she said was listened to with much attention. They are by no +means obtrusive; and as their fisheries supply them with a competent, if +not an abundant subsistence, although they receive thankfully whatever +we choose to give, they do not importune us by begging. Fish is, indeed, +their chief food, except roots and casual supplies of antelope, which +latter, to those who have only bows and arrows, must be very scanty. +This diet may be the direct or the remote cause of the chief disorder +which prevails among them, as well as among the Flatheads on the +Kooskooskee and Lewis’ rivers. With all these Indians a bad soreness +of the eyes is a very common disorder, which is suffered to ripen by +neglect, till many are deprived of one of their eyes, and some have +totally lost the use of both. This dreadful calamity may reasonably, we +think, be imputed to the constant reflection of the sun on the waters, +where they are constantly fishing in the spring, summer, and fall, and +during the rest of the year on the snows of a country which affords no +object to relieve the sight. + +“Among the Sokulks, indeed among all the tribes whose chief subsistence +is fish, we have observed that bad teeth are very general; some have the +teeth, particularly those of the upper jaw, worn down to the gums, and +many of both sexes, even of middle age, have lost them almost entirely. +This decay of the teeth is a circumstance very unusual among Indians, +either of the mountains or the plains, and seems peculiar to the +inhabitants of the Columbia. We cannot avoid regarding as one principal +cause of it the manner in which they eat their food. The roots are +swallowed as they are dug from the ground, frequently covered with a +gritty sand; so little idea have they that this is offensive that all +the roots they offer us for sale are in the same condition.” + +The explorers were now at the entrance of the mighty Columbia,--“The +Great River” of which they had heard so much from the Indians. We might +suppose that when they actually embarked upon the waters of the famous +stream, variously known as “The River of the North” and “The Oregon,” + the explorers would be touched with a little of the enthusiasm with +which they straddled the headwaters of the Missouri and gazed upon the +snow-covered peaks of the Rocky Mountains. But no such kindling of +the imagination seems to have been noted in their journal. In this +commonplace way, according to their own account, Captain Clark entered +upon the mighty Columbia:-- + +“In the course of the day (October 17, 1805), Captain Clark, in a small +canoe with two men, ascended the Columbia. At the distance of five miles +he passed an island in the middle of the river, at the head of which +was a small but not dangerous rapid. On the left bank, opposite to this +island, was a fishing-place consisting of three mat houses. Here were +great quantities of salmon drying on scaffolds; and, indeed, from the +mouth of the river upward, he saw immense numbers of dead salmon strewed +along the shore, or floating on the surface of the water, which is so +clear that the fish may be seen swimming at the depth of fifteen or +twenty feet. The Indians, who had collected on the banks to observe him, +now joined him in eighteen canoes, and accompanied him up the river. A +mile above the rapids he came to the lower point of an island, where the +course of the stream, which had been from its mouth north eighty-three +degrees west, now became due west. He proceeded in that direction, +until, observing three house’s of mats at a short distance, he landed +to visit them. On entering one of these houses, he found it crowded with +men, women, and children, who immediately provided a mat for him to sit +on, and one of the party undertook to prepare something to eat. He began +by bringing in a piece of pine wood that had drifted down the river, +which he split into small pieces with a wedge made of elkhorn, by means +of a mallet of stone curiously carved. The pieces of wood were then +laid on the fire, and several round stones placed upon them. One of the +squaws now brought a bucket of water, in which was a large salmon about +half dried, and, as the stones became heated, they were put into the +bucket till the salmon was sufficiently boiled for use. It was then +taken out, put on a platter of rushes neatly made, and laid before +Captain Clark, while another was boiled for each of his men. During +these preparations he smoked with such about him as would accept of +tobacco, but very few were desirous of smoking, a custom which is +not general among them, and chiefly used as a matter of form in great +ceremonies. + +“After eating the fish, which was of an excellent flavor, Captain Clark +set out and, at the distance of four miles from the last island, came to +the lower point of another near the left shore, where he halted at two +large mat-houses. Here, as at the three houses below, the inhabitants +were occupied in splitting and drying salmon. The multitudes of this +fish are almost inconceivable. The water is so clear that they can +readily be seen at the depth of fifteen or twenty feet; but at this +season they float in such quantities down the stream, and are drifted +ashore, that the Indians have only to collect, split, and dry them on +the scaffolds. Where they procure the timber of which these scaffolds +are composed he could not learn; but as there is nothing but +willow-bushes to be seen for a great distance from this place, it +rendered very probable what the Indians assured him by signs, that they +often used dried fish as fuel for the common occasions of cooking. From +this island they showed him the entrance of the western branch of the +Columbia, called the Tapteal, which, as far as could be seen, bears +nearly west and empties about eight miles above into the Columbia, the +general course of which is northwest.” + +The Tapteal, as the journal calls it, is now known as the Yakima, +a stream which has its source in the Cascade range of mountains, +Washington. The party tarried here long enough to secure from the +Indians a tolerably correct description of the river upon which they +were about to embark. One of the chiefs drew upon the skin-side of a +buffalo robe a sketch of the Columbia. And this was transferred to paper +and put into the journal. That volume adds here:-- + +“Having completed the purposes of our stay, we now began to lay in our +stores. Fish being out of season, we purchased forty dogs, for which we +gave small articles, such as bells, thimbles, knitting-needles, brass +wire, and a few beads, an exchange with which they all seemed perfectly +satisfied. These dogs, with six prairie-cocks killed this morning, +formed a plentiful supply for the present. We here left our guide +and the two young men who had accompanied him, two of the three being +unwilling to go any further, and the third being of no use, as he was +not acquainted with the river below. We therefore took no Indians but +our two chiefs, and resumed our journey in the presence of many of the +Sokulks, who came to witness our departure. The morning was cool and +fair, and the wind from the southeast.” + +They now began again to meet Indians who had never before seen white +men. On the nineteenth, says the journal:-- + +“The great chief, with two of his inferior chiefs and a third belonging +to a band on the river below, made us a visit at a very early hour. The +first of these was called Yelleppit,--a handsome, well-proportioned +man, about five feet eight inches high, and thirty-five years of age, +with a bold and dignified countenance; the rest were not distinguished +in their appearance. We smoked with them, and after making a speech, +gave a medal, a handkerchief, and a string of wampum to Yelleppit, but a +string of wampum only to the inferior chiefs. He requested us to remain +till the middle of the day, in order that all his nation might come and +see us; but we excused ourselves by telling him that on our return we +would spend two or three days with him. This conference detained us till +nine o’clock, by which time great numbers of the Indians had come down +to visit us. On leaving them we went on for eight miles, when we came to +an island near the left shore, which continued six miles in length. +At its lower extremity is a small island on which are five houses, at +present vacant, though the scaffolds of fish are as usual abundant. A +short distance below are two more islands, one of them near the middle +of the river. On this there were seven houses, but as soon as the +Indians, who were drying fish, saw us, they fled to their houses, and +not one of them appeared till we had passed; when they came out in +greater numbers than is usual for houses of that size, which induced us +to think that the inhabitants of the five lodges had been alarmed at our +approach and taken refuge with them. We were very desirous of landing in +order to relieve their apprehensions, but as there was a bad rapid along +the island all our care was necessary to prevent injury to the canoes. +At the foot of this rapid is a rock on the left shore, which is fourteen +miles from our camp of last night and resembles a hat in shape.” + +Later in the day, Captain Clark ascended a bluff on the river bank, +where he saw “a very high mountain covered with snow.” This was Mount +St. Helen’s, in Cowlitz County, Washington. The altitude of the peak is +nine thousand seven hundred and fifty feet. “Having arrived at the lower +ends of the rapids below the bluff before any of the rest of the party, +he sat down on a rock to wait for them, and, seeing a crane fly across +the river, shot it, and it fell near him. Several Indians had been +before this passing on the opposite side towards the rapids, and some +who were then nearly in front of him, being either alarmed at his +appearance or the report of the gun, fled to their houses. Captain Clark +was afraid that these people had not yet heard that the white men were +coming, and therefore, in order to allay their uneasiness before the +rest of the party should arrive, he got into the small canoe with three +men, rowed over towards the houses, and, while crossing, shot a duck, +which fell into the water. As he approached no person was to be seen +except three men in the plains, and they, too, fled as he came near the +shore. He landed in front of five houses close to each other, but no one +appeared, and the doors, which were of mat, were closed. He went towards +one of them with a pipe in his hand, and, pushing aside the mat, entered +the lodge, where he found thirty-two persons, chiefly men and women, +with a few children, all in the greatest consternation; some hanging +down their heads, others crying and wringing their hands. He went up +to them, and shook hands with each one in the most friendly manner; but +their apprehensions, which had for a moment subsided, revived on his +taking out a burning-glass, as there was no roof to the house, and +lighting his pipe: he then offered it to several of the men, and +distributed among the women and children some small trinkets which he +had with him, and gradually restored a degree of tranquillity among +them. + +“Leaving this house, and directing each of his men to visit a house, he +entered a second. Here he found the inmates more terrified than those in +the first; but he succeeded in pacifying them, and afterward went into +the other houses, where the men had been equally successful. Retiring +from the houses, he seated himself on a rock, and beckoned to some of +the men to come and smoke with him; but none of them ventured to +join him till the canoes arrived with the two chiefs, who immediately +explained our pacific intention towards them. Soon after the +interpreter’s wife (Sacajawea) landed, and her presence dissipated all +doubts of our being well-disposed, since in this country no woman +ever accompanies a war party: they therefore all came out, and seemed +perfectly reconciled; nor could we, indeed, blame them for their +terrors, which were perfectly natural. They told the two chiefs that +they knew we were not men, for they had seen us fall from the clouds. In +fact, unperceived by them, Captain Clark had shot the white crane, which +they had seen fall just before he appeared to their eyes: the duck which +he had killed also fell close by him; and as there were some clouds +flying over at the moment, they connected the fall of the birds with +his sudden appearance, and believed that he had himself actually dropped +from the clouds; considering the noise of the rifle, which they had +never heard before, the sound announcing so extraordinary an event. This +belief was strengthened, when, on entering the room, he brought down +fire from the heavens by means of his burning-glass. We soon convinced +them, however, that we were merely mortals; and after one of our chiefs +had explained our history and objects, we all smoked together in great +harmony.” + + + + +Chapter XVI -- Down the Columbia to Tidewater + +The voyagers were now drifting down the Columbia River, and they found +the way impeded by many rapids, some of them very dangerous. But their +skill in the handling of their canoes seems to have been equal to the +occasion, although they were sometimes compelled to go around the more +difficult rapids, making a short land portage. When they had travelled +about forty miles down the river, they landed opposite an island on +which were twenty-four houses of Indians; the people, known as the +Pishquitpahs, were engaged in drying fish. No sooner had the white men +landed than the Indians, to the number of one hundred, came across the +stream bringing with them some firewood, a most welcome present in that +treeless country. The visitors were entertained with presents and a long +smoke at the pipe of peace. So pleased were they with the music of two +violins played by Cruzatte and Gibson, of the exploring party, that they +remained by the fire of the white men all night. The news of the arrival +of the white strangers soon spread, and next morning about two hundred +more of the Indians assembled to gaze on them. Later in the day, having +gotten away from their numerous inquisitive visitors, the explorers +passed down-stream and landed on a small island to examine a curious +vault, in which were placed the remains of the dead of the tribe. The +journal says:-- + +“This place, in which the dead are deposited, is a building about sixty +feet long and twelve feet wide, formed by placing in the ground poles +or forks six feet high, across which a long pole is extended the whole +length of the structure; against this ridge-pole are placed broad boards +and pieces of canoes, in a slanting direction, so as to form a shed. +It stands cast and west, and neither of the extremities is closed. +On entering the western end we observed a number of bodies wrapped +carefully in leather robes, and arranged in rows on boards, which were +then covered with a mat. This was the part destined for those who had +recently died; a little further on, bones half decayed were scattered +about, and in the centre of the building was a large pile of them heaped +promiscuously on each other. At the eastern extremity was a mat, on +which twenty-one skulls were placed in a circular form; the mode of +interment being first to wrap the body in robes, then as it decays to +throw the bones into the heap, and place the skulls together. From +the different boards and pieces of canoes which form the vault were +suspended, on the inside, fishing-nets, baskets, wooden bowls, robes, +skins, trenchers, and trinkets of various kinds, obviously intended +as offerings of affection to deceased relatives. On the outside of the +vault were the skeletons of several horses, and great quantities of +their bones were in the neighborhood, which induced us to believe that +these animals were most probably sacrificed at the funeral rites of +their masters.” + +Just below this stand the party met Indians who traded with tribes +living near the great falls of the Columbia. That place they designated +as “Tum-tum,” a word that signifies the throbbing of the heart. One of +these Indians had a sailor’s jacket, and others had a blue blanket and +a scarlet blanket. These articles had found their way up the river from +white traders on the seashore. + +On the twenty-first of October the explorers discovered a considerable +stream which appeared to rise in the southeast and empty into the +Columbia on the left. To this stream they gave the name of Lepage +for Bastien Lepage, one of the voyageurs accompanying the party. The +watercourse, however, is now known as John Day’s River. John Day was +a mighty hunter and backwoodsman from Kentucky who went across the +continent, six years later, with a party bound for Astoria, on the +Columbia. From the rapids below the John Day River the Lewis and Clark +party caught their first sight of Mount Hood, a famous peak of the +Cascade range of mountains, looming up in the southwest, eleven thousand +two hundred and twenty-five feet high. Next day they passed the mouth +of another river entering the Columbia from the south and called by +the Indians the Towahnahiooks, but known to modern geography as the Des +Chutes, one of the largest southern tributaries of the Columbia. Five +miles below the mouth of this stream the party camped. Near them was a +party of Indians engaged in drying and packing salmon. Their method of +doing this is thus described:-- + +“The manner of doing this is by first opening the fish and exposing it +to the sun on scaffolds. When it is sufficiently dried it is pounded +between two stones till it is pulverized, and is then placed in a +basket about two feet long and one in diameter, neatly made of grass and +rushes, and lined with the skin of a salmon stretched and dried for the +purpose. Here the fish are pressed down as hard as possible, and the top +is covered with fish-skins, which are secured by cords through the holes +of the basket. These baskets are then placed in some dry situation, the +corded part upward, seven being usually placed as close as they can be +put together, and five on the top of these. The whole is then wrapped +up in mats, and made fast by cords, over which mats are again thrown. +Twelve of these baskets, each of which contains from ninety to one +hundred pounds, form a stack, which is left exposed till it is sent to +market. The fish thus preserved keep sound and sweet for several years, +and great quantities, they inform us, are sent to the Indians who live +below the falls, whence it finds its way to the whites who visit the +mouth of the Columbia. We observe, both near the lodges and on the rocks +in the river, great numbers of stacks of these pounded fish. Besides +fish, these people supplied us with filberts and berries, and we +purchased a dog for supper; but it was with much difficulty that we were +able to buy wood enough to cook it.” + +On the twenty-third the voyagers made the descent of the great falls +which had so long been an object of dread to them. The whole height of +the falls is thirty-seven feet, eight inches, in a distance of twelve +hundred yards. A portage of four hundred and fifty yards was made around +the first fall, which is twenty feet high, and perpendicular. By means +of lines the canoes were let down the rapids below. At the season of +high water the falls become mere rapids up which the salmon can pass. On +this point the journal says:-- + +“From the marks everywhere perceivable at the falls, it is obvious that +in high floods, which must be in the spring, the water below the falls +rises nearly to a level with that above them. Of this rise, which is +occasioned by some obstructions which we do not as yet know, the salmon +must avail themselves to pass up the river in such multitudes that this +fish is almost the only one caught in great abundance above the falls; +but below that place we observe the salmon-trout, and the heads of +a species of trout smaller than the salmon-trout, which is in great +quantities, and which they are now burying, to be used as their winter +food. A hole of any size being dug, the sides and bottom are lined with +straw, over which skins are laid; on these the fish, after being well +dried, are laid, covered with other skins, and the hole is closed with a +layer of earth twelve or fifteen inches deep. . . . + +“We saw no game except a sea-otter, which was shot in the narrow channel +as we were coming down, but we could not get it. Having, therefore, +scarcely any provisions, we purchased eight small fat dogs: a food +to which we were compelled to have recourse, as the Indians were very +unwilling to sell us any of their good fish, which they reserved for the +market below. Fortunately, however, habit had completely overcome the +repugnance which we felt at first at eating this animal, and the dog, if +not a favorite dish, was always an acceptable one. The meridian altitude +of to-day gave 45'0 42’ 57.3” north as the latitude of our camp. + +“On the beach, near the Indian huts, we observed two canoes of a +different shape and size from any which we had hitherto seen. One of +these we got by giving our smallest canoe a hatchet, and a few trinkets +to the owner, who said he had obtained it from a white man below the +falls in exchange for a horse. These canoes were very beautifully made: +wide in the middle, and tapering towards each end, with curious figures +carved on the bow. They were thin, but, being strengthened by crossbars +about an inch in diameter, tied with strong pieces of bark through +holes in the sides, were able to bear very heavy burdens, and seemed +calculated to live in the roughest water.” + +At this point the officers of the expedition observed signs of +uneasiness in the two friendly Indian chiefs who had thus far +accompanied them. They also heard rumors that the warlike Indians below +them were meditating an attack as the party went down. The journal +says:-- + +“Being at all times ready for any attempt of that sort, we were +not under greater apprehensions than usual at this intelligence. We +therefore only re-examined our arms, and increased the ammunition to one +hundred rounds. Our chiefs, who had not the same motives of confidence, +were by no means so much at their ease, and when at night they saw the +Indians leave us earlier than usual, their suspicions of an intended +attack were confirmed, and they were very much alarmed. + +“The Indians approached us with apparent caution, and behaved with more +than usual reserve. Our two chiefs, by whom these circumstances were not +observed, now told us that they wished to return home; that they could +be no longer of any service to us; that they could not understand the +language of the people below the falls; that those people formed a +different nation from their own; that the two people had been at war +with each other; and that as the Indians had expressed a resolution to +attack us, they would certainly kill them. We endeavored to quiet their +fears, and requested them to stay two nights longer, in which time we +would see the Indians below, and make a peace between the two nations. +They replied that they were anxious to return and see their horses. +We however insisted on their remaining with us, not only in hopes of +bringing about an accommodation between them and their enemies, but +because they might be able to detect any hostile designs against us, +and also assist us in passing the next falls, which are not far off, and +represented as very difficult. They at length agreed to stay with us two +nights longer.” + +The explorers now arrived at the next fall of the Columbia. Here was a +quiet basin, on the margin of which were three Indian huts. The journal +tells the rest of the story:-- + +“At the extremity of this basin stood a high black rock, which, rising +perpendicularly from the right shore, seemed to run wholly across the +river: so totally, indeed, did it appear to stop the passage, that +we could not see where the water escaped, except that the current was +seemingly drawn with more than usual velocity to the left of the rock, +where was heard a great roaring. We landed at the huts of the Indians, +who went with us to the top of the rock, from which we had a view of +all the difficulties of the channel. We were now no longer at a loss to +account for the rising of the river at the falls; for this tremendous +rock was seen stretching across the river, to meet the high hills on +the left shore, leaving a channel of only forty-five yards wide, through +which the whole body of the Columbia pressed its way. The water, thus +forced into so narrow a passage, was thrown into whirls, and swelled and +boiled in every part with the wildest agitation. But the alternative +of carrying the boats over this high rock was almost impossible in our +present situation; and as the chief danger seemed to be, not from any +obstructions in the channel, but from the great waves and whirlpools, we +resolved to attempt the passage, in the hope of being able, by dexterous +steering, to descend in safety. This we undertook, and with great care +were able to get through, to the astonishment of the Indians in the +huts we had just passed, who now collected to see us from the top of the +rock. The channel continued thus confined for the space of about half a +mile, when the rock ceased. We passed a single Indian hut at the foot +of it, where the river again enlarges to the width of two hundred yards, +and at the distance of a mile and a half stopped to view a very bad +rapid; this is formed by two rocky islands which divide the channel, the +lower and larger of which is in the middle of the river. The appearance +of this place was so unpromising that we unloaded all the most valuable +articles, such as guns, ammunition, our papers, etc., and sent them by +land, with all the men that could not swim, to the extremity of these +rapids. We then descended with the canoes, two at a time; though the +canoes took in some water, we all went through safely; after which we +made two miles, stopped in a deep bend of the river toward the right, +and camped a little above a large village of twenty-one houses. Here +we landed; and as it was late before all the canoes joined us, we were +obliged to remain this evening, the difficulties of the navigation +having permitted us to make only six miles.” + +They were then among the Echeloots, a tribe of the Upper Chinooks, now +nearly extinct. The white men were much interested in the houses of +these people, which, their journal set forth, were “the first wooden +buildings seen since leaving the Illinois country.” This is the manner +of their construction:-- + +“A large hole, twenty feet wide and thirty in length, was dug to the +depth of six feet; the sides of which were lined with split pieces of +timber rising just above the surface of the ground, and smoothed to the +same width by burning, or by being shaved with small iron axes. These +timbers were secured in their erect position by a pole stretched along +the side of the building near the eaves, and supported on a strong +post fixed at each corner. The timbers at the gable ends rose gradually +higher, the middle pieces being the broadest. At the top of these was a +sort of semicircle, made to receive a ridge-pole the whole length of the +house, propped by an additional post in the middle, and forming the top +of the roof. From this ridge-pole to the eaves of the house were placed +a number of small poles or rafters, secured at each end by fibres of the +cedar. On these poles, which were connected by small transverse bars +of wood, was laid a covering of white cedar, or arbor vitae, kept on by +strands of cedar fibres; but a small space along the whole length of +the ridge-pole was left uncovered, for the purpose of light, and of +permitting the smoke to pass out. The roof, thus formed, had a +descent about equal to that common among us, and near the eaves it was +perforated with a number of small holes, made, most probably, for the +discharge of arrows in case of an attack. The only entrance was by a +small door at the gable end, cut out of the middle piece of timber, +twenty-nine and a half inches high, fourteen inches broad, and reaching +only eighteen inches above the earth. Before this hole is hung a mat; on +pushing it aside and crawling through, the descent is by a small wooden +ladder, made in the form of those used among us. One-half of the inside +is used as a place of deposit for dried fish, of which large quantities +are stored away, and with a few baskets of berries form the only +family provisions; the other half, adjoining the door, remains for the +accommodation of the family. On each side are arranged near the walls +small beds of mats placed on little scaffolds or bedsteads, raised from +eighteen inches to three feet from the ground; and in the middle of the +vacant space is the fire, or sometimes two or three fires, when, as is +usually the case, the house contains three families.” + +Houses very like these are built by the Ahts or Nootkas, a tribe of +Indians inhabiting parts of Vancouver Island and the adjacent mainland. +A Nootka calls his house an ourt. + +The good offices of Lewis and Clark, who were always ready to make +peace between hostile tribes, were again successful here. The Echeloots +received the white men with much kindness, invited them to their houses, +and returned their visits after the explorers had camped. Lewis and +Clark told the Echeloot chiefs that the war was destroying them and +their industries, bringing want and privation upon them. The Indians +listened with attention to what was said, and after some talk they +agreed to make peace with their ancient enemies. Impressed with the +sincerity of this agreement, the captains of the expedition invested the +principal chief with a medal and some small articles of clothing. +The two faithful chiefs who had accompanied the white men from the +headwaters of the streams now bade farewell to their friends and allies, +the explorers. They bought horses of the Echeloots and returned to their +distant homes by land. + +Game here became more abundant, and on the twenty-sixth of October the +journal records the fact that they received from the Indians a present +of deer-meat, and on that day their hunters found plenty of tracks of +elk and deer in the mountains, and they brought in five deer, four very +large gray squirrels, and a grouse. Besides these delicacies, one of +the men killed in the river a salmon-trout which was fried in bear’s oil +and, according to the journal, “furnished a dish of a very delightful +flavor,” doubtless a pleasing change from the diet of dog’s flesh with +which they had so recently been regaled. + +Two of the Echeloot chiefs remained with the white men to guide them +on their way down the river. These were joined by seven others of their +tribe, to whom the explorers were kind and attentive. But the visitors +could not resist the temptation to pilfer from the goods exposed to dry +in the sun. Being checked in this sly business, they became ill-humored +and returned, angry, down the river. + +The explorers noticed here that the Indians flattened the heads of +males as well as females. Higher up the river, only the women and female +children had flat heads. The custom of artificially flattening the heads +of both men and women, in infancy, was formerly practised by nearly all +the tribes of the Chinook family along the Columbia River. Various means +are used to accomplish this purpose, the most common and most cruel +being to bind a flat board on the forehead of an infant in such a way +that it presses on the skull and forces the forehead up on to the top of +the head. As a man whose head has been flattened in infancy grows older, +the deformity partly disappears; but the flatness of the head is always +regarded as a tribal badge of great merit. + +“On the morning of the twenty-eighth,” says the journal, having dried +our goods, we were about setting out, when three canoes came from above +to visit us, and at the same time two others from below arrived for the +same purpose. Among these last was an Indian who wore his hair in a +que, and had on a round hat and a sailor’s jacket, which he said he had +obtained from the people below the great rapids, who bought them from +the whites. This interview detained us till nine o’clock, when we +proceeded down the river, which is now bordered with cliffs of loose +dark colored rocks about ninety feet high, with a thin covering of pines +and other small trees. At the distance of four miles we reached a small +village of eight houses under some high rocks on the right with a small +creek on the opposite side of the river. + +“We landed and found the houses similar to those we had seen at the +great narrows; on entering one of them we saw a British musket, a +cutlass, and several brass tea-kettles, of which they seemed to be very +fond. There were figures of men, birds, and different animals, which +were cut and painted on the boards which form the sides of the room; +though the workmanship of these uncouth figures was very rough, they +were highly esteemed by the Indians as the finest frescos of more +civilized people. This tribe is called the Chilluckittequaw; their +language, though somewhat different from that of the Echeloots, has many +of the same words, and is sufficiently intelligible to the neighboring +Indians. We procured from them a vocabulary, and then, after buying five +small dogs, some dried berries, and a white bread or cake made of roots, +we left them. The wind, however, rose so high that we were obliged, +after going one mile, to land on the left side, opposite a rocky island, +and pass the day.” + +On the same day the white chiefs visited one of the most prominent of +the native houses built along the river. + +“This,” says the journal, “was the residence of the principal chief of +the Chilluckittequaw nation, who we found was the same between whom and +our two chiefs we had made a peace at the Echeloot village. He received +us, very kindly, and set before us pounded fish, filberts, nuts, the +berries of the sacacommis, and white bread made of roots. We gave, in +return, a bracelet of ribbon to each of the women of the house, with +which they were very much pleased. The chief had several articles, such +as scarlet and blue cloth, a sword, a jacket, and a hat, which must +have been procured from the whites, and on one side of the room were +two wide, split boards, placed together so as to make space for a rude +figure of a man cut and painted on them. On pointing to this, and asking +him what it meant, he said something, of which all that we understood +was ‘good,’ and then stepped up to the painting, and took out his bow +and quiver, which, with some other warlike instruments, were kept behind +it. + +“He then directed his wife to hand him his medicine-bag, from which he +drew out fourteen forefingers, which he told us had belonged to the same +number of his enemies, whom he had killed in fighting with the nations +to the southeast, in which direction he pointed; alluding, no doubt, to +the Snake Indians, the common enemy of the tribes on the Columbia. This +bag is usually about two feet in length, and contains roots, pounded +dirt, etc., which only the Indians know how to appreciate. It is +suspended in the middle of the lodge; and it is considered as a species +of sacrilege for any one but the owner to touch it. It is an object of +religious fear; and, from its supposed sanctity, is the chief place for +depositing their medals and more valuable articles. They have likewise +small bags, which they preserve in their great medicine-bag, from +whence they are taken, and worn around their waists and necks as amulets +against any real or imaginary evils. This was the first time we had been +apprised that the Indians ever carried from the field any other trophy +than the scalp. These fingers were shown with great exultation; and, +after an harangue, which we were left to presume was in praise of his +exploits, the chief carefully replaced them among the valuable contents +of his red medicine-bag. The inhabitants of this village being part +of the same nation with those of the village we had passed above, the +language of the two was the same, and their houses were of similar form +and materials, and calculated to contain about thirty souls. They were +unusually hospitable and good-humored, so that we gave to the place the +name of the Friendly village. We breakfasted here; and after purchasing +twelve dogs, four sacks of fish, and a few dried berries, proceeded on +our journey. The hills as we passed were high, with steep, rocky sides, +with pine and white oak, and an undergrowth of shrubs scattered over +them.” + +Leaving the Friendly village, the party went on their way down the +river. Four miles below they came to a small and rapid river which they +called the Cataract River, but which is now known as the Klikitat. The +rapids of the stream, according to the Indians, were so numerous that +salmon could not ascend it, and the Indians who lived along its banks +subsisted on what game they could kill with their bows and arrows and on +the berries which, in certain seasons, were plentiful. Again we notice +the purchase of dogs; this time only four were bought, and the party +proceeded on their way. That night, having travelled thirty-two miles, +they camped on the right bank of the river in what is now Skamania +County, Washington. Three huts were inhabited by a considerable number +of Indians, of whom the journal has this to say:-- + +“On our first arrival they seemed surprised, but not alarmed, and we +soon became intimate by means of smoking and our favorite entertainment +for the Indians, the violin. They gave us fruit, roots, and root-bread, +and we purchased from them three dogs. The houses of these people are +similar to those of the Indians above, and their language is the same; +their dress also, consisting of robes or skins of wolves, deer, elk, +and wildcat, is made nearly after the same model; their hair is worn in +plaits down each shoulder, and round their neck is put a strip of some +skin with the tail of the animal hanging down over the breast; like the +Indians above, they are fond of otter-skins, and give a great price for +them. We here saw the skin of a mountain sheep, which they say lives +among the rocks in the mountains; the skin was covered with white hair; +the wool was long, thick, and coarse, with long coarse hair on the top +of the neck and on the back, resembling somewhat the bristles of a goat. +Immediately behind the village is a pond, in which were great numbers of +small swan.” + +The “mountain sheep” mentioned here are not the bighorn of which we have +heard something in the earlier part of this narrative, but a species +of wild goat found among the Cascade Mountains. The “wildcat” above +referred to is probably that variety of lynx known in Canada and most +of the Northern States and the Pacific as the _loup-cervier_, or +vulgarly, the “lucifee.” + +On the last day of October, the next of the more difficult rapids being +near, Captain Clark went ahead to examine the “shoot,” as the explorers +called the place which we know as the chute. In the thick wood that +bordered the river he found an ancient burial-place which he thus +describes:-- + +“It consists of eight vaults made of pine or cedar boards closely +connected, about eight feet square and six in height; the top covered +with wide boards sloping a little, so as to convey off the rain. The +direction of all of these vaults is east and west, the door being on +the eastern side, partially stopped with wide boards decorated with rude +pictures of men and other animals. On entering he found in some of them +four dead bodies, carefully wrapped in skins, tied with cords of grass +and bark, lying on a mat, in a direction east and west. The other vaults +contained only bones, which were in some of them piled to the height +of four feet. On the tops of the vaults, and on poles attached to them, +bung brass kettles and frying-pans with holes in their bottoms, baskets, +bowls, sea-shells, skins, pieces of cloth, hair, bags of trinkets and +small bones--the offerings of friendship or affection, which have +been saved by a pious veneration from the ferocity of war, or the more +dangerous temptations of individual gain. The whole of the walls as well +as the door were decorated with strange figures cut and painted on them; +and besides were several wooden images of men, some so old and decayed +as to have almost lost their shape, which were all placed against the +sides of the vaults. These images, as well as those in the houses we +have lately seen, do not appear to be at all the objects of adoration; +in this place they were most probably intended as resemblances of those +whose decease they indicate; when we observe them in houses, they occupy +the most conspicuous part, but are treated more like ornaments than +objects of worship.” + +The white men were visited at their camp by many Indians from the +villages farther up the stream. The journal says:-- + +“We had an opportunity of seeing to-day the hardihood of the Indians of +the neighboring village. One of the men shot a goose, which fell into +the river and was floating rapidly toward the great shoot, when an +Indian observing it plunged in after it. The whole mass of the waters of +the Columbia, just preparing to descend its narrow channel, carried the +animal down with great rapidity. The Indian followed it fearlessly +to within one hundred and fifty feet of the rocks, where he would +inevitably have been dashed to pieces; but seizing his prey he +turned round and swam ashore with great composure. We very willingly +relinquished our right to the bird in favor of the Indian who had thus +saved it at the imminent hazard of his life; he immediately set to work +and picked off about half the feathers, and then, without opening it, +ran a stick through it and carried it off to roast.” + +With many hair’s-breadth escapes, the expedition now passed through the +rapids or “great shoot.” The river here is one hundred and fifty yards +wide and the rapids are confined to an area four hundred yards long, +crowded with islands and rocky ledges. They found the Indians living +along the banks of the stream to be kindly disposed; but they had +learned, by their intercourse with tribes living below, to set a high +value on their wares. They asked high prices for anything they had for +sale. The journal says:-- + +“We cannot learn precisely the nature of the trade carried on by the +Indians with the inhabitants below. But as their knowledge of the whites +seems to be very imperfect, and as the only articles which they carry to +market, such as pounded fish, bear-grass, and roots, cannot be an object +of much foreign traffic, their intercourse appears to be an intermediate +trade with the natives near the mouth of the Columbia. From them these +people obtain, in exchange for their fish, roots, and bear-grass, blue +and white beads, copper tea-kettles, brass armbands, some scarlet and +blue robes, and a few articles of old European clothing. But their great +object is to obtain beads, an article which holds the first place in +their ideas of relative value, and to procure which they will sacrifice +their last article of clothing or last mouthful of food. Independently +of their fondness for them as an ornament, these beads are the medium of +trade, by which they obtain from the Indians still higher up the river, +robes, skins, chappelel bread, bear-grass, etc. Those Indians in +turn employ them to procure from the Indians in the Rocky Mountains, +bear-grass, pachico-roots, robes, etc. + +“These Indians are rather below the common size, with high cheek-bones; +their noses are pierced, and in full dress ornamented with a tapering +piece of white shell or wampum about two inches long. Their eyes are +exceedingly sore and weak; many of them have only a single eye, and +some are perfectly blind. Their teeth prematurely decay, and in frequent +instances are altogether worn away. Their general health, however, seems +to be good, the only disorder we have remarked being tumors in different +parts of the body.” + +The more difficult rapid was passed on the second day of November, the +luggage being sent down by land and the empty canoes taken down with +great care. The journal of that date says:-- + +“The rapid we have just passed is the last of all the descents of the +Columbia. At this place the first tidewater commences, and the river +in consequence widens immediately below the rapid. As we descended we +reached, at the distance of one mile from the rapid, a creek under +a bluff on the left; at three miles is the lower point of Strawberry +Island. To this immediately succeed three small islands covered with +wood. In the meadow to the right, at some distance from the hills, +stands a perpendicular rock about eight hundred feet high and four +hundred yards around the base. This we called Beacon Rock. Just below is +an Indian village of nine houses, situated between two small creeks. +At this village the river widens to nearly a mile in extent; the low +grounds become wider, and they as well as the mountains on each side are +covered with pine, spruce-pine, cottonwood, a species of ash, and some +alder. After being so long accustomed to the dreary nakedness of the +country above, the change is as grateful to the eye as it is useful in +supplying us with fuel. Four miles from the village is a point of +land on the right, where the hills become lower, but are still thickly +timbered. The river is now about two miles wide, the current smooth and +gentle, and the effect of the tide has been sensible since leaving the +rapid. Six miles lower is a rock rising from the middle of the river to +the height of one hundred feet, and about eighty yards at its base. +We continued six miles further, and halted for the night under a high +projecting rock on the left side of the river, opposite the point of a +large meadow. + +“The mountains, which, from the great shoot to this place, are high, +rugged, and thickly covered with timber, chiefly of the pine species, +here leave the river on each side; the river becomes two and one-half +miles in width; the low grounds are extensive and well supplied with +wood. The Indians whom we left at the portage passed us on their way +down the river, and seven others, who were descending in a canoe for the +purpose of trading below, camped with us. We had made from the foot of +the great shoot twenty-nine miles to-day. The ebb tide rose at our camp +about nine inches; the flood must rise much higher. We saw great numbers +of water-fowl, such as swan, geese, ducks of various kinds, gulls, +plovers, and the white and gray brant, of which last we killed +eighteen.” + + + + +Chapter XVII -- From Tidewater to the Sea + +Near the mouth of the river which the explorers named Quicksand River +(now Sandy), they met a party of fifteen Indians who had lately been +down to the mouth of the Columbia. These people told the white men that +they had seen three vessels at anchor below, and, as these must needs +be American, or European, the far-voyaging explorers were naturally +pleased. When they had camped that night, they received other visitors +of whom the journal makes mention:-- + +“A canoe soon after arrived from the village at the foot of the last +rapid, with an Indian and his family, consisting of a wife, three +children, and a woman who had been taken prisoner from the Snake +Indians, living on a river from the south, which we afterward found to +be the Multnomah. Sacajawea was immediately introduced to her, in hopes +that, being a Snake Indian, they might understand each other; but their +language was not sufficiently intelligible to permit them to converse +together. The Indian had a gun with a brass barrel and cock, which he +appeared to value highly.” + +The party had missed the Multnomah River in their way down, although +this is one of the three largest tributaries of the Columbia, John Day’s +River and the Des Chutes being the other two. A group of islands +near the mouth of the Multnomah hides it from the view of the passing +voyager. The stream is now more generally known as the Willamette, or +Wallamet. The large city of Portland, Oregon, is built on the river, +about twelve miles from its junction with the Columbia. The Indian +tribes along the banks of the Multnomah, or Willamette, subsisted +largely on the wappatoo, an eatable root, about the size of a hen’s egg +and closely resembling a potato. This root is much sought after by the +Indians and is eagerly bought by tribes living in regions where it is +not to be found. The party made great use of the wappatoo after they had +learned how well it served in place of bread. They bought here all that +the Indians could spare and then made their way down the river to an +open prairie where they camped for dinner and found many signs of elk +and deer. The journal says:-- + +“When we landed for dinner, a number of Indians from the last village +came down for the purpose, as we supposed, of paying us a friendly +visit, as they had put on their favorite dresses. In addition to their +usual covering they had scarlet and blue blankets, sailors’ jackets and +trousers, shirts and hats. They had all of them either war-axes, spears, +and bows and arrows, or muskets and pistols, with tin powder-flasks. +We smoked with them and endeavored to show them every attention, but we +soon found them very assuming and disagreeable companions. While we +were eating, they stole the pipe with which they were smoking, and +the greatcoat of one of the men. We immediately searched them all, and +discovered the coat stuffed under the root of a tree near where they +were sitting; but the pipe we could not recover. Finding us determined +not to suffer any imposition, and discontented with them, they showed +their displeasure in the only way which they dared, by returning in an +ill-humor to their village. + +“We then proceeded and soon met two canoes, with twelve men of the same +Skilloot nation, who were on their way from below. The larger of the +canoes was ornamented with the figure of a bear in the bow and a man in +the stern, both nearly as large as life, both made of painted wood +and very neatly fixed to the boat. In the same canoe were two Indians, +finely dressed and with round hats. This circumstance induced us to give +the name of Image-canoe to the large island, the lower end of which we +now passed at the distance of nine miles from its head.” + +Here they had their first full view of Mt. St. Helen’s, sometimes called +Mt. Ranier. The peak is in Washington and is 9,750 feet high. It has +a sugar-loaf, or conical, shape and is usually covered with snow. The +narrative of the expedition continues as follows:-- + +“The Skilloots that we passed to-day speak a language somewhat different +from that of the Echeloots or Chilluckittequaws near the long narrows. +Their dress, however, is similar, except that the Skilloots possess +more articles procured from the white traders; and there is this farther +difference between them, that the Skilloots, both males and females, +have the head flattened. Their principal food is fish, wappatoo roots, +and some elk and deer, in killing which with arrows they seem to be very +expert; for during the short time we remained at the village, three deer +were brought in. We also observed there a tame blaireau, (badger).” + +The journal, November 5, says:-- + +“Our choice of a camp had been very unfortunate; for on a sand-island +opposite us were immense numbers of geese, swan, ducks, and other wild +fowl, which during the whole night serenaded us with a confusion of +noises which completely prevented our sleeping. During the latter part +of the night it rained, and we therefore willingly left camp at an early +hour. We passed at three miles a small prairie, where the river is only +three-quarters of a mile in width, and soon after two houses on the +left, half a mile distant from each other; from one of which three men +came in a canoe merely to look at us, and having done so returned home. +At eight miles we came to the lower point of an island, separated from +the right side by a narrow channel, on which, a short distance above +the end of the island, is situated a large village. It is built more +compactly than the generality of the Indian villages, and the front +has fourteen houses, which are ranged for a quarter of a mile along the +channel. As soon as we were discovered seven canoes came out to see +us, and after some traffic, during which they seemed well disposed and +orderly, accompanied us a short distance below.” + +The explorers now met Indians of a different nation from those whom they +had seen before. The journal says:-- + +“These people seem to be of a different nation from those we have just +passed; they are low in stature, ill shaped, and all have their heads +flattened. They call themselves Wahkiacum, and their language differs +from that of the tribes above, with whom they trade for wappatoo-roots. +The houses are built in a different style, being raised entirely above +ground, with the caves about five feet high and the door at the corner. +Near the end, opposite this door, is a single fireplace, round which are +the beds, raised four feet from the floor of earth; over the fire +are hung the fresh fish, which, when dried, are stowed away with the +wappatoo-roots under the beds. The dress of the men is like that of the +people above, but the women are clad in a peculiar manner, the robe not +reaching lower than the hip, and the body being covered in cold weather +by a sort of corset of fur, curiously plaited and reaching from the arms +to the hip; added to this is a sort of petticoat, or rather tissue of +white cedar bark, bruised or broken into small strands, and woven into +a girdle by several cords of the same material. Being tied round the +middle, these strands hang down as low as the knee in front, and to the +mid-leg behind; they are of sufficient thickness to answer the purpose +of concealment whilst the female stands in an erect position, but in any +other attitude form but a very ineffectual defence. Sometimes the +tissue is strings of silk-grass, twisted and knotted at the end. After +remaining with them about an hour, we proceeded down the channel with an +Indian dressed in a sailor’s jacket for our pilot, and on reaching the +main channel were visited by some Indians who have a temporary residence +on a marshy island in the middle of the river, where is a great +abundance of water-fowl.” + +The tribe of Indians known as the Wahkiacums has entirely disappeared; +but the name survives as that of one of the counties of Washington +bordering on the Columbia. Wahkiacum is the county lying next west of +Cowlitz. When the explorers passed down the river under the piloting of +their Indian friend wearing a sailor’s jacket, they were in a thick fog. +This cleared away and a sight greeted their joyful vision. Their story +says:-- + +“At a distance of twenty miles from our camp, we halted at a village of +Wahkiacums, consisting of seven ill-looking houses, built in the same +form with those above, and situated at the foot of the high hills on the +right, behind two small marshy islands. We merely stopped to purchase +some food and two beaver skins, and then proceeded. Opposite to these +islands the hills on the left retire, and the river widens into a kind +of bay, crowded with low islands, subject to be overflowed occasionally +by the tide. We had not gone far from this village when, the fog +suddenly clearing away, we were at last presented with the glorious +sight of the ocean--that ocean, the object of all our labors, the reward +of all our anxieties. This animating sight exhilarated the spirits of +all the party, who were still more delighted on hearing the distant +roar of the breakers. We went on with great cheerfulness along the high, +mountainous country which bordered the right bank: the shore, however, +was so bold and rocky, that we could not, until at a distance of +fourteen miles from the last village, find any spot fit for an +encampment. Having made during the day thirty-four miles, we now spread +our mats on the ground, and passed the night in the rain. Here we were +joined by our small canoe, which had been separated from us during the +fog this morning. Two Indians from the last village also accompanied us +to the camp; but, having detected them in stealing a knife, they were +sent off.” + +It is not very easy for us, who have lived comfortably at home, or who +have travelled only in luxurious railway-cars and handsomely equipped +steamers, to realize the joy and rapture with which these far-wandering +explorers hailed the sight of the sea,--the sea to which they had so +long been journeying, through deserts, mountain-passes, and tangled +wildernesses. In his diary Captain Clark thus sets down some indication +of his joy on that memorable day, November 8, 1805: “Great joy in camp. +We are in view of the Ocean, this great Pacific Ocean which we have +been so long anxious to see, and the roaring or noise made by the waves +breaking on the rocky shores (as I suppose) may be heard distinctly.” + Later, same day, he says, “Ocean in view! O! the joy!” Fortunately, the +hardships to be undergone on the shores of the ocean were then unknown +and undreamed of; the travellers were thankful to see the sea, the +goal of all their hopes, the end of their long pilgrimage across the +continent. + +That night they camped near the mouth of the river in what is now known +as Gray’s Bay, on the north side of the river, in the southwest corner +of Wahkiacum County. Before they could reach their camping-place, +the water was so rough that some of the men had an unusual +experience,--seasickness. They passed a disagreeable night on a narrow, +rocky bench of land. Next day they say: + +“Fortunately for us, the tide did not rise as high as our camp during +the night; but being accompanied by high winds from the south, the +canoes, which we could not place beyond its reach, were filled with +water, and were saved with much difficulty. Our position was very +uncomfortable, but as it was impossible to move from it, we waited for a +change of weather. It rained, however, during the whole day, and at two +o’clock in the afternoon the flood tide set in, accompanied by a high +wind from the south, which, about four o’clock, shifted to the southwest +and blew almost a gale directly from the sea. The immense waves now +broke over the place where we were camped; the large trees, some of them +five or six feet thick, which had lodged at the point, were drifted over +our camp, and the utmost vigilance of every man could scarcely save +our canoes from being crushed to pieces. We remained in the water, and +drenched with rain, during the rest of the day, our only food being +some dried fish and some rain-water which we caught. Yet, though wet +and cold, and some of them sick from using salt water, the men were +cheerful, and full of anxiety to see more of the ocean. The rain +continued all night.” + +This was the beginning of troubles. Next day, the wind having lulled, +the party set forth again, only to be beaten back and compelled to take +to the shore again. This was their experience for several days. For +example, under date of the eleventh the journal says:-- + +“The wind was still high from the southwest, and drove the waves against +the shore with great fury; the rain too fell in torrents, and not only +drenched us to the skin, but loosened the stones on the hillsides, +which then came rolling down upon us. In this comfortless situation we +remained all day, wet, cold, with nothing but dried fish to satisfy our +hunger; the canoes in one place at the mercy of the waves, the baggage +in another, and all the men scattered on floating logs, or sheltering +themselves in the crevices of the rocks and hillsides. A hunter was +despatched in hopes of finding some fresh meat; but the hills were so +steep, and so covered with undergrowth and fallen timber, that he could +not penetrate them, and he was forced to return.” + +And this is the record for the next day:-- + +“About three o’clock a tremendous gale of wind arose accompanied with +lightning, thunder, and hail: at six it lightened up for a short time, +but a violent rain soon began, and lasted through the day. During the +storm, one of our boats, secured by being sunk with great quantities of +stone, got loose, but, drifting against a rock, was recovered without +having received much injury. Our situation now became much more +dangerous, for the waves were driven with fury against the rocks +and trees, which till now had afforded us refuge: we therefore took +advantage of the low tide, and moved about half a mile round a point to +a small brook, which we had not observed before on account of the thick +bushes and driftwood which concealed its mouth. Here we were more safe, +but still cold and wet; our clothes and bedding rotten as well as wet, +our baggage at a distance, and the canoes, our only means of escape from +this place, at the mercy of the waves. Still, we continued to enjoy good +health, and even had the luxury of feasting on some salmon and three +salmon trout which we caught in the brook. Three of the men attempted to +go round a point in our small Indian canoe, but the high waves rendered +her quite unmanageable, these boats requiring the seamanship of the +natives to make them live in so rough a sea.” + +It should be borne in mind that the canoes of the explorers were poor +dug-outs, unfit to navigate the turbulent waters of the bay, and the men +were not so expert in that sort of seamanship as were the Indians whom +they, with envy, saw breasting the waves and making short voyages in the +midst of the storms. It continued to rain without any intermission, +and the waves dashed up among the floating logs of the camp in a very +distracting manner. The party now had nothing but dried fish to eat, +and it was with great difficulty that a fire could be built. On +the fifteenth of the month, Captain Lewis having found a better +camping-place near a sandy beach, they started to move their luggage +thither; but before they could get under way, a high wind from the +southwest sprung up and they were forced to remain. But the sun came out +and they were enabled to dry their stuff, much of which had been spoiled +by the rain which had prevailed for the past ten days. Their fish also +was no longer fit to eat, and they were indeed in poor case. Captain +Lewis was out on a prospecting trip, and the party set out and found a +beach through which a pleasant brook flowed to the river, making a very +good camping-place. At the mouth of this stream was an ancient Chinook +village, which, says the journal, “has at present no inhabitants but +fleas.” The adventurers were compelled to steer wide of all old Indian +villages, they were so infested with fleas. At times, so great was +the pest, the men were forced to take off all their clothing and soak +themselves and their garments in the river before they could be rid +of the insects. The site of their new camp was at the southeast end +of Baker’s Bay, sometimes called Haley’s Bay, a mile above a very high +point of rocks. On arriving at this place, the voyagers met with an +unpleasant experience of which the journal gives this account:-- + +“Here we met Shannon, who had been sent back to meet us by Captain +Lewis. The day Shannon left us in the canoe, he and Willard proceeded +till they met a party of twenty Indians, who, having never heard of us, +did not know where they (our men) came from; they, however, behaved with +so much civility, and seemed so anxious that the men should go with them +toward the sea, that their suspicions were excited, and they declined +going on. The Indians, however, would not leave them; the men being +confirmed in their suspicions, and fearful that if they went into the +woods to sleep they would be cut to pieces in the night, thought it best +to pass the night in the midst of the Indians. They therefore made a +fire, and after talking with them to a late hour, laid down with their +rifles under their heads. As they awoke that morning they found that +the Indians had stolen and concealed their guns. Having demanded them +in vain, Shannon seized a club, and was about assaulting one of the +Indians, whom he suspected as a thief, when another Indian began to +load a fowling-piece with the intention of shooting him. He therefore +stopped, and explained by signs that if they did not give up the guns +a large party would come down the river before the sun rose to such a +height, and put every one of them to death. Fortunately, Captain Lewis +and his party appeared at this time. The terrified Indians immediately +brought the guns, and five of them came on with Shannon. To these men we +declared that if ever any one of their nation stole anything from us, +he should be instantly shot. They reside to the north of this place, and +speak a language different from that of the people higher up the river. + +“It was now apparent that the sea was at all times too rough for us to +proceed further down the bay by water. We therefore landed, and having +chosen the best spot we could select, made our camp of boards from +the old (Chinook) village. We were now situated comfortably, and being +visited by four Wahkiacums with wappatoo-roots, were enabled to make an +agreeable addition to our food.” + +On the seventeenth Captain Lewis with a small party of his men coasted +the bay as far out as Cape Disappointment and some distance to the north +along the seacoast. Game was now plenty, and the camp was supplied with +ducks, geese, and venison. Bad weather again set in. The journal under +date of November 22 says:-- + +“It rained during the whole night, and about daylight a tremendous gale +of wind rose from the S.S.E., and continued through the day with great +violence. The sea ran so high that the water came into our camp, which +the rain prevents us from leaving. We purchased from the old squaw, for +armbands and rings, a few wappatoo-roots, on which we subsisted. They +are nearly equal in flavor to the Irish potato, and afford a very good +substitute for bread. The bad weather drove several Indians to our camp, +but they were still under the terrors of the threat which we made on +first seeing them, and behaved with the greatest decency. + +“The rain continued through the night, November 23, and the morning was +calm and cloudy. The hunters were sent out, and killed three deer, four +brant, and three ducks. Towards evening seven Clatsops came over in a +canoe, with two skins of the sea-otter. To this article they attached an +extravagant value; and their demands for it were so high, that we were +fearful it would too much reduce our small stock of merchandise, on +which we had to depend for subsistence on our return, to venture on +purchasing it. To ascertain, however, their ideas as to the value +of different objects, we offered for one of these skins a watch, a +handkerchief, an American dollar, and a bunch of red beads; but neither +the curious mechanism of the watch, nor even the red beads, could tempt +the owner: he refused the offer, but asked for tiacomoshack, or chief +beads, the most common sort of coarse blue-colored beads, the article +beyond all price in their estimation. Of these blue beads we had but +few, and therefore reserved them for more necessitous circumstances.” + +The officers of the expedition had hoped and expected to find here some +of the trading ships that were occasionally sent along the coast to +barter with the natives; but none were to be found. They were soon to +prepare for winter-quarters, and they still hoped that a trader might +appear in the spring before they set out on their homeward journey +across the continent. Very much they needed trinkets to deal with the +natives in exchange for, the needful articles of food on the route. But +(we may as well say here) no such relief ever appeared. It is strange +that President Jefferson, in the midst of his very minute orders and +preparations for the benefit of the explorers, did not think of sending +a relief ship to meet the party at the mouth of the Columbia. They would +have been saved a world of care, worry, and discomfort. But at that time +the European nations who held possessions on the Pacific coast were very +suspicious of the Americans, and possibly President Jefferson did not +like to risk rousing their animosity. + +The rain that now deluged the unhappy campers was so incessant that they +might well have thought that people should be web-footed to live in such +a watery region. In these later days, Oregon is sometimes known as “The +Web-foot State.” Captain Clark, in his diary, November 28, makes this +entry: “O! how disagreeable is our situation dureing this dreadfull +weather!” The gallant captain’s spelling was sometimes queer. Under that +date he adds:-- + +“We remained during the day in a situation the most cheerless and +uncomfortable. On this little neck of land we are exposed, with a +miserable covering which does not deserve the name of a shelter, to +the violence of the winds; all our bedding and stores, as well as +our bodies, are completely wet; our clothes are rotting with constant +exposure, and we have no food except the dried fish brought from the +falls, to which we are again reduced. The hunters all returned hungry +and drenched with rain, having seen neither deer nor elk, and the swan +and brant were too shy to be approached. At noon the wind shifted to the +northwest, and blew with such tremendous fury that many trees were blown +down near us. This gale lasted with short intervals during the whole +night.” + +Of course, in the midst of such violent storms, it was impossible to get +game, and the men were obliged to resort once more to a diet of +dried fish, This food caused much sickness in the camp, and it became +imperatively necessary that efforts should again be made to find game. +On the second of December, to their great joy an elk was killed, and +next day they had a feast. The journal says; + +“The wind was from the east and the morning fair; but, as if one whole +day of fine weather were not permitted, toward night it began to rain. +Even this transient glimpse of sunshine revived the spirits of the +party, who were still more pleased when the elk killed yesterday was +brought into camp. This was the first elk we had killed on the west side +of the Rocky Mountains, and condemned as we have been to the dried +fish, it formed a most nourishing food. After eating the marrow of the +shank-bones, the squaw chopped them fine, and by boiling extracted a +pint of grease, superior to the tallow itself of the animal. A canoe of +eight Indians, who were carrying down wappatoo-roots to trade with +the Clatsops, stopped at our camp; we bought a few roots for small +fish-hooks, and they then left us. Accustomed as we were to the sight, +we could not but view with admiration the wonderful dexterity with which +they guide their canoes over the most boisterous seas; for though the +waves were so high that before they had gone half a mile the canoe was +several times out of sight, they proceeded with the greatest calmness +and security. Two of the hunters who set out yesterday had lost their +way, and did not return till this evening. They had seen in their ramble +great signs of elk and had killed six, which they had butchered and left +at a great distance. A party was sent in the morning.” + +On the third of December Captain Clark carved on the trunk of a great +pine tree this inscription:-- + +“WM. CLARK DECEMBER 3D 1805 BY LAND FROM THE + +U. STATES IN 1804 & 5.” + + +A few days later, Captain Lewis took with him a small party and set out +to find a suitable spot on which to build their winter camp. He did not +return as soon as he was expected, and considerable uneasiness was felt +in camp on that account. But he came in safely. He brought good news; +they had discovered a river on the south side of the Columbia, not far +from their present encampment, where there were an abundance of elk and +a favorable place for a winter camp. Bad weather detained them until the +seventh of December, when a favorable change enabled them to proceed. +They made their way slowly and very cautiously down-stream, the tide +being against them. The narrative proceeds:-- + +“We at length turned a point, and found ourselves in a deep bay: here we +landed for breakfast, and were joined by the party sent out three days +ago to look for the six elk, killed by the Lewis party. They had lost +their way for a day and a half, and when they at last reached the place, +found the elk so much spoiled that they brought away nothing but the +skins of four of them. After breakfast we coasted round the bay, which +is about four miles across, and receives, besides several small creeks, +two rivers, called by the Indians, the one Kilhowanakel, the other +Netul. We named it Meriwether’s Bay, from the Christian name of Captain +Lewis, who was, no doubt, the first white man who had surveyed it. The +wind was high from the northeast, and in the middle of the day it rained +for two hours, and then cleared off. On reaching the south side of the +bay we ascended the Netul three miles, to the first point of high land +on its western bank, and formed our camp in a thick grove of lofty +pines, about two hundred yards from the water, and thirty feet above the +level of the high tides.” + + + + +Chapter XVIII -- Camping by the Pacific + +Next in importance to the building of a winter camp was the fixing of +a place where salt could be made. Salt is absolutely necessary for the +comfort of man, and the supply brought out from the United States by the +explorers was now nearly all gone. They were provided with kettles +in which sea-water could be boiled down and salt be made. It would be +needful to go to work at once, for the process of salt-making by boiling +in ordinary kettles is slow and tedious; not only must enough for +present uses be found, but a supply to last the party home again was +necessary. Accordingly, on the eighth of December the journal has this +entry to show what was to be done:-- + +“In order, therefore, to find a place for making salt, and to examine +the country further, Captain Clark set out with five men, and pursuing a +course S. 60'0 W., over a dividing ridge through thick pine timber, +much of which bad fallen, passed the beads of two small brooks. In the +neighborhood of these the land was swampy and overflowed, and they waded +knee-deep till they came to an open ridgy prairie, covered with the +plant known on our frontier by the name of sacacommis (bearberry). Here +is a creek about sixty yards wide and running toward Point Adams; they +passed it on a small raft. At this place they discovered a large herd of +elk, and after pursuing them for three miles over bad swamps and small +ponds, killed one of them. The agility with which the elk crossed the +swamps and bogs seems almost incredible; as we followed their track the +ground for a whole acre would shake at our tread and sometimes we sunk +to our hips without finding any bottom. Over the surface of these bogs +is a species of moss, among which are great numbers of cranberries; +and occasionally there rise from the swamp small steep knobs of earth, +thickly covered with pine and laurel. On one of these we halted at +night, but it was scarcely large enough to suffer us to lie clear of +the water, and had very little dry wood. We succeeded, however, in +collecting enough to make a fire; and having stretched the elk-skin to +keep off the rain, which still continued, slept till morning.” + +Next day the party were met by three Indians who had been fishing for +salmon, of which they had a goodly supply, and were now on their way +home to their village on the seacoast. They, invited Captain Clark and +his men to accompany them; and the white men accepted the invitation. +These were Clatsops. Their village consisted of twelve families living +in houses of split pine boards, the lower half of the house being +underground. By a small ladder in the middle of the house-front, the +visitors reached the floor, which was about four feet below the surface. +Two fires were burning in the middle of the room upon the earthen floor. +The beds were ranged around the room next to the wall, with spaces +beneath them for bags, baskets, and household articles. + +Captain Clark was received with much attention, clean mats were spread +for him, and a repast of fish, roots, and berries was set before him. +He noticed that the Clatsops were well dressed and clean, and that they +frequently washed their faces and hands, a ceremony, he remarked, that +is by no means frequent among other Indians. A high wind now prevailed, +and as the evening was stormy, Captain Clark resolved to stay all night +with his hospitable Clatsops. The narrative proceeds:-- + +“The men of the village now collected and began to gamble. The most +common game was one in which one of the company was banker, and played +against all the rest. He had a piece of bone, about the size of a large +bean, and having agreed with any individual as to the value of the +stake, would pass the bone from one hand to the other with great +dexterity, singing at the same time to divert the attention of his +adversary; then holding it in his hands, his antagonist was challenged +to guess in which of them the bone was, and lost or won as he pointed +to the right or wrong hand. To this game of hazard they abandoned +themselves with great ardor; sometimes everything they possess is +sacrificed to it; and this evening several of the Indians lost all +the beads which they had with them. This lasted for three hours; when, +Captain Clark appearing disposed to sleep, the man who had been most +attentive, and whose name was Cuskalah, spread two new mats near the +fire, ordered his wife to retire to her own bed, and the rest of the +company dispersed at the same time. Captain Clark then lay down, but +the violence with which the fleas attacked him did not leave his rest +unbroken.” + +Next morning, Captain Clark walked along the seashore, and he observed +that the Indians were walking up and down, examining the shore and the +margin of a creek that emptied here. The narrative says:-- + +“He was at a loss to understand their object till one of them came to +him, and explained that they were in search of any fish which might have +been thrown on shore and left by the tide, adding in English, ‘sturgeon +is very good.’ There is, indeed, every reason to believe that these +Clatsops depend for their subsistence, during the winter, chiefly on the +fish thus casually thrown on the coast. After amusing himself for some +time on the beach, he returned towards the village, and shot on his way +two brant. As he came near the village, one of the Indians asked him +to shoot a duck about thirty steps distant: he did so, and, having +accidentally shot off its head, the bird was brought to the village, +when all the Indians came round in astonishment. They examined the duck, +the musket, and the very small bullets, which were a hundred to the +pound, and then exclaimed, Clouch musque, waket, commatax musquet: Good +musket; do not understand this kind of musket. They now placed before +him their best roots, fish, and syrup, after which he attempted to +purchase a sea-otter skin with some red beads which he happened to have +about him; but they declined trading, as they valued none except blue or +white beads. He therefore bought nothing but a little berry-bread and a +few roots, in exchange for fish-hooks, and then set out to return by the +same route he had come. He was accompanied by Cuskalah and his brother +as far as the third creek, and then proceeded to the camp through a +heavy rain. The whole party had been occupied during his absence in +cutting down trees to make huts, and in hunting.” + +This was the occupation of all hands for several days, notwithstanding +the discomfort of the continual downpour. Many of the men were ill from +the effects of sleeping and living so constantly in water. Under date of +December 12, the journal has this entry:-- + +“We continued to work in the rain at our houses. In the evening there +arrived two canoes of Clatsops, among whom was a principal chief, called +Comowol. We gave him a medal and treated his companions with great +attention; after which we began to bargain for a small sea-otter skin, +some wappatoo-roots, and another species of root called shanataque. +We readily perceived that they were close dealers, stickled much for +trifles, and never closed the bargain until they thought they had the +advantage. The wappatoo is dear, as they themselves are obliged to give +a high price for it to the Indians above. Blue beads are the articles +most in request; the white occupy the next place in their estimation; +but they do not value much those of any other color. We succeeded at +last in purchasing their whole cargo for a few fish-hooks and a small +sack of Indian tobacco, which we had received from the Shoshonees.” + +The winter camp was made up of seven huts, and, although it was not so +carefully fortified as was the fort in the Mandan country (during the +previous winter), it was so arranged that intruders could be kept out +when necessary. For the roofs of these shelters they were provided with +“shakes” split out from a species of pine which they called “balsam +pine,” and which gave them boards, or puncheons, or shakes, ten feet +long and two feet wide, and not more than an inch and a half thick. By +the sixteenth of December their meat-house was finished, and their meat, +so much of which had been spoiled for lack of proper care, was cut up +in small pieces and hung under cover. They had been told by the Indians +that very little snow ever fell in that region, and the weather, +although very, very wet, was mild and usually free from frost. They did +have severe hailstorms and a few flurries of snow in December but the +rain was a continual cause of discomfort. Of the trading habits of the +Clatsops the journal has this to say:-- + +“Three Indians came in a canoe with mats, roots, and the berries of the +sacacommis. These people proceed with a dexterity and finesse in their +bargains which, if they have not learned it from their foreign visitors, +may show how nearly allied is the cunning of savages to the little arts +of traffic. They begin by asking double or treble the value of what they +have to sell, and lower their demand in proportion to the greater or +less degree of ardor or knowledge of the purchaser, who, with all his +management, is not able to procure the article for less than its real +value, which the Indians perfectly understand. Our chief medium of trade +consists of blue and white beads, files,--with which they sharpen their +tools,--fish-hooks, and tobacco; but of all these articles blue beads +and tobacco are the most esteemed.” + +But, although their surroundings were not of a sort to make one very +jolly, when Christmas came they observed the day as well as they could. +Here is what the journal says of the holiday:-- + +“We were awaked at daylight by a discharge of firearms, which was +followed by a song from the men, as a compliment to us on the return of +Christmas, which we have always been accustomed to observe as a day of +rejoicing. After breakfast we divided our remaining stock of tobacco, +which amounted to twelve carrots (hands), into two parts; one of which +we distributed among such of the party as make use of it, making a +present of a handkerchief to the others. The remainder of the day was +passed in good spirits, though there was nothing in our situation to +excite much gayety. The rain confined us to the house, and our only +luxuries in honor of the season were some poor elk, so much spoiled that +we ate it through sheer necessity, a few roots, and some spoiled pounded +fish. + +“The next day brought a continuation of rain, accompanied with thunder, +and a high wind from the southeast. We were therefore obliged to still +remain in our huts, and endeavored to dry our wet articles before the +fire. The fleas, which annoyed us near the portage of the Great Falls, +have taken such possession of our clothes that we are obliged to have a +regular search every day through our blankets as a necessary preliminary +to sleeping at night. These animals, indeed, are so numerous that they +are almost a calamity to the Indians of this country. When they have +once obtained the mastery of any house it is impossible to expel them, +and the Indians have frequently different houses, to which they resort +occasionally when the fleas have rendered their permanent residence +intolerable; yet, in spite of these precautions, every Indian is +constantly attended by multitudes of them, and no one comes into our +house without leaving behind him swarms of these tormenting insects.” + +Although the condition of the exploring party was low, the men did not +require very much to put them in good spirits. The important and happy +event of finishing their fort and the noting of good weather are thus +set forth in the journal under date of December 30:-- + +“Toward evening the hunters brought in four elk (which Drewyer had +killed), and after a long course of abstinence and miserable diet, we +had a most sumptuous supper of elk’s tongues and marrow. Besides this +agreeable repast, the state of the weather was quite exhilarating. It +had rained during the night, but in the morning, though the high wind +continued, we enjoyed the fairest and most pleasant weather since our +arrival; the sun having shone at intervals, and there being only +three showers in the course of the day. By sunset we had completed the +fortification, and now announced to the Indians that every day at that +hour the gates would be closed, and they must leave the fort and not +enter it till sunrise. The Wahkiacums who remained with us, and who were +very forward in their deportment, complied very reluctantly with this +order; but, being excluded from our houses, formed a camp near us. . . . + +“January 1, 1806. We were awaked at an early hour by the discharge of a +volley of small arms, to salute the new year. This was the only mode of +commemorating the day which our situation permitted; for, though we had +reason to be gayer than we were at Christmas, our only dainties were +boiled elk and wappatoo, enlivened by draughts of pure water. We were +visited by a few Clatsops, who came by water, bringing roots and berries +for sale. Among this nation we observed a man about twenty-five years +old, of a much lighter complexion than the Indians generally: his face +was even freckled, and his hair long, and of a colour inclining to red. +He was in habits and manners perfectly Indian; but, though he did not +speak a word of English, he seemed to understand more than the others +of his party; and, as we could obtain no account of his origin, we +concluded that one of his parents, at least, must have been white.” + +A novel addition to their bill of fare was fresh blubber, or fat, from a +stranded whale. Under date of January 3 the journal says:-- + +“At eleven o’clock we were visited by our neighbor, the Tia or chief, +Comowool, who is also called Coone, and six Clatsops. Besides roots +and berries, they brought for sale three dogs, and some fresh blubber. +Having been so long accustomed to live on the flesh of dogs, the greater +part of us have acquired a fondness for it, and our original aversion +for it is overcome, by reflecting that while we subsisted on that food +we were fatter, stronger, and in general enjoyed better health than at +any period since leaving the buffalo country, eastward of the mountains. +The blubber, which is esteemed by the Indians an excellent food, has +been obtained, they tell us, from their neighbors, the Killamucks, a +nation who live on the seacoast to the southeast, near one of whose +villages a whale had recently been thrown and foundered.” + +Five men had been sent out to form a camp on the seashore and go into +the manufacture of salt as expeditiously as possible. On the fifth of +January, two of them came into the fort bringing a gallon of salt, which +was decided to be “white, fine and very good,” and a very agreeable +addition to their food, which had been eaten perfectly fresh for some +weeks past. Captain Clark, however, said it was a “mere matter of +indifference” to him whether he had salt or not, but he hankered for +bread. Captain Lewis, on the other hand, said the lack of salt was a +great inconvenience; “the want of bread I consider trivial,” was his +dictum. It was estimated that the salt-makers could turn out three or +four quarts a day, and there was good prospect of an abundant supply +for present needs and for the homeward journey. An expedition to the +seashore was now planned, and the journal goes on to tell how they set +out:-- + +“The appearance of the whale seemed to be a matter of importance to all +the neighboring Indians, and as we might be able to procure some of it +for ourselves, or at least purchase blubber from the Indians, a small +parcel of merchandise was prepared, and a party of the men held in +readiness to set out in the morning. As soon as this resolution was +known, Chaboneau and his wife requested that they might be permitted +to accompany us. The poor woman stated very earnestly that she had +travelled a great way with us to see the great water, yet she had never +been down to the coast, and now that this monstrous fish was also to +be seen, it seemed hard that she should be permitted to see neither the +ocean nor the whale. So reasonable a request could not be denied; they +were therefore suffered to accompany Captain Clark, who, January 6th, +after an early breakfast, set out with twelve men in two canoes.” + +After a long and tedious trip, the camp of the saltmakers was reached, +and Captain Clark and his men went on to the remains of the whale, only +the skeleton being left by the rapacious and hungry Indians. The whale +had been stranded between two shore villages tenanted by the Killamucks, +as Captain Clark called them. They are now known as the Tillamook +Indians, and their name is preserved in Tillamook County, Oregon. The +white men found it difficult to secure much of the blubber, or the oil. +Although the Indians had large quantities of both, they sold it with +much reluctance. In Clark’s private diary is found this entry: “Small +as this stock (of oil and lubber) is I prize it highly; and thank +Providence for directing the whale to us; and think him more kind to +us than he was to Jonah, having sent this monster to be swallowed by us +instead of swallowing us as Jonah’s did.” While here, the party had a +startling experience, as the journal says:-- + +“Whilst smoking with the Indians, Captain Clark was surprised, about ten +o’clock, by a loud, shrill outcry from the opposite village, on hearing +which all the Indians immediately started up to cross the creek, and the +guide informed him that someone had been killed. On examination one +of the men (M’Neal) was discovered to be absent, and a guard (Sergeant +Pryor and four men) despatched, who met him crossing the creek in great +haste. An Indian belonging to another band, who happened to be with the +Killamucks that evening, had treated him with much kindness, and walked +arm in arm with him to a tent where our man found a Chinnook squaw, +who was an old acquaintance. From the conversation and manner of the +stranger, this woman discovered that his object was to murder the white +man for the sake of the few articles on his person; when he rose and +pressed our man to go to another tent where they would find something +better to eat, she held M’Neal by the blanket; not knowing her object, +he freed himself from her, and was going on with his pretended friend, +when she ran out and gave the shriek which brought the men of the +village over, and the stranger ran off before M’Neal knew what had +occasioned the alarm.” + +The “mighty hunter” of the Lewis and Clark expedition was Drewyer, whose +name has frequently been mentioned in these pages. Under date of January +12, the journal has this just tribute to the man:-- + +“Our meat is now becoming scarce; we therefore determined to jerk it, +and issue it in small quantities, instead of dividing it among the four +messes, and leaving to each the care of its own provisions; a plan by +which much is lost, in consequence of the improvidence of the men. Two +hunters had been despatched in the morning, and one of them, Drewyer, +had before evening killed seven elk. We should scarcely be able to +subsist, were it not for the exertions of this most excellent hunter. +The game is scarce, and nothing is now to be seen except elk, which for +almost all the men are very difficult to be procured; but Drewyer, who +is the offspring of a Canadian Frenchman and an Indian woman, has passed +his life in the woods, and unites, in a wonderful degree, the dexterous +aim of the frontier huntsman with the intuitive sagacity of the Indian, +in pursuing the faintest tracks through the forest. All our men, +however, have indeed become so expert with the rifle that we are never +under apprehensions as to food; since, whenever there is game of any +kind, we are almost certain of procuring it.” + +The narrative of the explorers gives this account of the Chinooks:-- + +“The men are low in stature, rather ugly, and ill made; their legs being +small and crooked, their feet large, and their heads, like those of the +women, flattened in a most disgusting manner. These deformities are +in part concealed by robes made of sea-otter, deer, elk, beaver or +fox skins. They also employ in their dress robes of the skin of a cat +peculiar to this country, and of another animal of the same size, which +is light and durable, and sold at a high price by the Indians who bring +it from above. In addition to these are worn blankets, wrappers of red, +blue, or spotted cloth, and some old sailors’ clothes, which are very +highly prized. The greater part of the men have guns, with powder and +ball. + +“The women have in general handsome faces, but are low and +disproportioned, with small feet and large legs, occasioned, probably, +by strands of beads, or various strings, drawn so tight above the ankles +as to prevent the circulation of the blood. Their dress, like that of +the Wahkiacums, consists of a short robe and a tissue of cedar bark. +Their hair hangs loosely down the shoulders and back; and their ears, +neck, and wrists are ornamented with blue beads. Another decoration, +which is very highly prized, consists of figures made by puncturing the +arms or legs; and on the arms of one of the squaws we observed the name +of J. Bowman, executed in the same way. In language, habits, and in +almost every other particular, they resemble the Clatsops, Cathlamahs, +and, indeed, all the people near the mouth of the Columbia, though they +appeared to be inferior to their neighbors in honesty as well as spirit. +No ill treatment or indignity on our part seemed to excite any feeling +except fear; nor, although better provided than their neighbors with +arms, have they enterprise enough either to use them advantageously +against the animals of the forest, or offensively against the +tribes near them, who owe their safety more to the timidity than the +forbearance of the Chinooks. We had heard instances of pilfering while +we were among them, and therefore gave a general order excluding them +from our encampment, so that whenever an Indian wished to visit us, he +began by calling out ‘No Chinook.’ It is not improbable that this first +impression may have left a prejudice against them, since, when we were +among the Clatsops and other tribes at the mouth of the Columbia, they +had less opportunity of stealing, if they were so disposed.” + +The weeks remaining before the party set out on their return were passed +without notable incident. The journal is chiefly occupied with comments +on the weather, which was variable, and some account of the manners and +customs of the Indian tribes along the Columbia River. At that time, +so few traders had penetrated the wilds of the Lower Columbia that the +Indians were not supplied with firearms to any great extent. Their main +reliance was the bow and arrow. A few shotguns were seen among them, +but no rifles, and great was the admiration and wonder with which the +Indians saw the white men slay birds and animals at a long distance. +Pitfalls for elk were constructed by the side of fallen trees over which +the animals might leap. Concerning the manufactures of the Clatsops, +they reported as follows:-- + +“Their hats are made of cedar-bark and bear-grass, interwoven together +in the form of a European hat, with a small brim of about two inches, +and a high crown widening upward. They are light, ornamented with +various colors and figures, and being nearly water-proof, are much more +durable than either chip or straw hats. These hats form a small article +of traffic with the whites, and their manufacture is one of the best +exertions of Indian industry. They are, however, very dexterous in +making a variety of domestic utensils, among which are bowls, spoons, +scewers (skewers), spits, and baskets. The bowl or trough is of +different shapes--round, semicircular, in the form of a canoe, or cubic, +and generally dug out of a single piece of wood; the larger vessels have +holes in the sides by way of handles, and all are executed with great +neatness. In these vessels they boil their food, by throwing hot stones +into the water, and extract oil from different animals in the same way. +Spoons are not very abundant, nor is there anything remarkable in their +shape, except that they are large and the bowl broad. Meat is roasted on +one end of a sharp skewer, placed erect before the fire, with the other +end fixed in the ground. + +“But the most curious workmanship is that of the basket. It is formed of +cedar-bark and bear-grass, so closely interwoven that it is water-tight, +without the aid of either gum or resin. The form is generally conic, or +rather the segment (frustum) of a cone, of which the smaller end is +the bottom of the basket; and being made of all sizes, from that of the +smallest cup to the capacity of five or six gallons, they answer the +double purpose of a covering for the head or to contain water. Some +of them are highly ornamented with strands of bear-grass, woven into +figures of various colors, which require great labor; yet they are made +very expeditiously and sold for a trifle. It is for the construction +of these baskets that the bear-grass forms an article of considerable +traffic. It grows only near the snowy region of the high mountains; the +blade, which is two feet long and about three-eighths of an inch wide, +is smooth, strong, and pliant; the young blades particularly, from +their not being exposed to the sun and air, have an appearance of great +neatness, and are generally preferred. Other bags and baskets, not +waterproof, are made of cedar-bark, silk-grass, rushes, flags, and +common coarse sedge, for the use of families. In these manufactures, +as in the ordinary work of the house, the instrument most in use is a +knife, or rather a dagger. The handle of it is small, and has a strong +loop of twine for the thumb, to prevent its being wrested from the band. +On each side is a blade, double-edged and pointed; the longer from nine +to ten inches, the shorter from four to five. This knife is carried +habitually in the hand, sometimes exposed, but mostly, when in company +with strangers, is put under the robe.” + +Naturally, all of the Columbia River Indians were found to be expert +in the building and handling of canoes. Here their greatest skill was +employed. And, it may be added, the Indians of the North Pacific coast +to-day are equally adept and skilful. The canoes of the present race of +red men do not essentially differ from those of the tribes described by +Lewis and Clark, and who are now extinct. The Indians then living above +tide-water built canoes of smaller size than those employed by the +nations farther down the river. The canoes of the Tillamooks and other +tribes living on the seacoast were upwards of fifty feet long, and would +carry eight or ten thousand pounds’ weight, or twenty-five or thirty +persons. These were constructed from the trunk of a single tree, usually +white cedar. The bow and stern rose much higher than the gunwale, and +were adorned by grotesque figures excellently well carved and fitted +to pedestals cut in the solid wood of the canoe. The same method of +adornment may be seen among the aborigines of Alaska and other regions +of the North Pacific, to-day. The figures are made of small pieces of +wood neatly fitted together by inlaying and mortising, without any spike +of any kind. When one reflects that the Indians seen by Lewis and Clark +constructed their large canoes with very poor tools, it is impossible +to withhold one’s admiration of their industry and patience. The journal +says:-- + +“Our admiration of their skill in these curious constructions was +increased by observing the very inadequate implements which they use. +These Indians possess very few axes, and the only tool they employ, from +felling the tree to the delicate workmanship of the images, is a chisel +made of an old file, about an inch or an inch and a half in width. +Even of this, too, they have not learned the proper management; for the +chisel is sometimes fixed in a large block of wood, and, being held in +the right hand, the block is pushed with the left, without the aid of a +mallet. But under all these disadvantages, their canoes, which one +would suppose to be the work of years, are made in a few weeks. A canoe, +however, is very highly prized, being in traffic an article of the +greatest value except a wife, and of equal value with her; so that +a lover generally gives a canoe to the father in exchange for his +daughter. . . . + +“The harmony of their private life is secured by their ignorance +of spirituous liquors, the earliest and most dreadful present which +civilization has given to the other natives of the continent. Although +they have had so much intercourse with whites, they do not appear to +possess any knowledge of those dangerous luxuries; at least they have +never inquired after them, which they probably would have done if once +liquors bad been introduced among them. Indeed, we have not observed any +liquor of intoxicating quality among these or any Indians west of the +Rocky Mountains, the universal beverage being pure water. They, however, +sometimes almost intoxicate themselves by smoking tobacco, of which they +are excessively fond, and the pleasures of which they prolong as much as +possible, by retaining vast quantities at a time, till after circulating +through the lungs and stomach it issues in volumes from the mouth and +nostrils.” + +A long period of quiet prevailed in camp after the first of February, +before the final preparations for departure were made. Parties were sent +out every day to hunt, and the campers were able to command a few days’ +supply of provision in advance. The flesh of the deer was now very lean +and poor, but that of the elk was growing better and better. It was +estimated by one of the party that they killed, between December +1, 1805, and March 20, 1806, elk to the number of one hundred and +thirty-one, and twenty deer. Some of this meat they smoked for its +better preservation, but most of it was eaten fresh. No record was kept +of the amount of fish consumed by the party; but they were obliged at +times to make fish their sole article of diet. Late in February they +were visited by Comowool, the principal Clatsop chief, who brought them +a sturgeon and quantities of a small fish which had just begun to make +its appearance in the Columbia. This was known as the anchovy, but +oftener as the candle-fish; it is so fat that it may be burned like a +torch, or candle. The journal speaks of Comowool as “by far the most +friendly and decent savage we have seen in this neighborhood.” + + + + +Chapter XIX -- With Faces turned Homeward + +The officers of the expedition had decided to begin their homeward march +on the first of April; but a natural impatience induced them to start +a little earlier, and, as a matter of record, it may be said that they +evacuated Fort Clatsop on the 23d of March, 1806. An examination of +their stock of ammunition showed that they had on hand a supply of +powder amply sufficient for their needs when travelling the three +thousand miles of wilderness in which their sole reliance for food must +be the game to be killed. The powder was kept in leaden canisters, and +these, when empty, were used for making balls for muskets and rifles. +Three bushels of salt were collected for their use on the homeward +journey. + +What they needed now most of all was an assortment of small wares and +trinkets with which to trade with the Indians among whom they must +spend so many months before reaching civilization again. They had ample +letters of credit from the Government at Washington, and if they had met +with white traders on the seacoast, they could have bought anything that +money would buy. They had spent nearly all their stock in coming across +the continent. This is Captain Lewis’s summary of the goods on hand just +before leaving Fort Clatsop:-- + +“All the small merchandise we possess might be tied up in a couple +of handkerchiefs. The rest of our stock in trade consists of six blue +robes, one scarlet ditto, five robes which we made out of our large +United States flag, a few old clothes trimmed with ribbons, and one +artillerist’s uniform coat and hat, which probably Captain Clark will +never wear again. We have to depend entirely upon this meagre outfit for +the purchase of such horses and provisions as it will be in our power to +obtain--a scant dependence, indeed, for such a journey as is before us.” + +One of their last acts was to draw up a full list of the members of +the party, and, making several copies of it, to leave these among the +friendly Indians with instructions to give a paper to the first white +men who should arrive in the country. On the back of the paper was +traced the track by which the explorers had come and that by which +they expected to return. This is a copy of one of these important +documents:-- + +“The object of this list is, that through the medium of some civilized +person who may see the same, it may be made known to the informed +world, that the party consisting of the persons whose names are hereunto +annexed, and who were sent out by the government of the U’States in May, +1804, to explore the interior of the Continent of North America, did +penetrate the same by way of the Missouri and Columbia Rivers, to the +discharge of the latter into the Pacific Ocean, where they arrived on +the 14th of November, 1805, and from whence they departed the 23d day of +March, 1806, on their return to the United States by the same rout they +had come out.” + +Curiously enough, one of these papers did finally reach the United +States. During the summer of 1806, the brig “Lydia,” Captain Hill, +entered the Columbia for the purpose of trading with the natives. From +one of these Captain Hill secured the paper, which he took to +Canton, China, in January, 1807. Thence it was sent to a gentleman in +Philadelphia, having travelled nearly all the way round the world. + +Fort Clatsop, as they called the rude collection of huts in which they +had burrowed all winter, with its rude furniture and shelters, was +formally given to Comowool, the Clatsop chief who had been so kind +to the party. Doubtless the crafty savage had had his eye on this +establishment, knowing that it was to be abandoned in the spring. + +The voyagers left Fort Clatsop about one o’clock in the day, and, after +making sixteen miles up the river, camped for the night. Next day, they +reached an Indian village where they purchased “some wappatoo and a +dog for the invalids.” They still had several men on the sick list in +consequence of the hard fare of the winter. The weather was cold and +wet, and wood for fuel was difficult to obtain. In a few days they found +themselves among their old friends, the Skilloots, who had lately been +at war with the Chinooks. There was no direct intercourse between +the two nations as yet, but the Chinooks traded with the Clatsops and +Wahkiacums, and these in turn traded with the Skilloots, and in this way +the two hostile tribes exchanged the articles which they had for those +which they desired. The journal has this to say about the game of an +island on which the explorers tarried for a day or two, in order to dry +their goods and mend their canoes:-- + +“This island, which has received from the Indians the appropriate name +of Elalah (Elallah), or Deer Island, is surrounded on the water-side by +an abundant growth of cottonwood, ash, and willow, while the interior +consists chiefly of prairies interspersed with ponds. These afford +refuge to great numbers of geese, ducks, large swan, sandhill cranes, +a few canvas-backed ducks, and particularly the duckinmallard, the most +abundant of all. There are also great numbers of snakes resembling our +garter-snakes in appearance, and like them not poisonous. Our hunters +brought in three deer, a goose, some ducks, an eagle, and a tiger-cat. +Such is the extreme voracity of the vultures, that they had devoured in +the space of a few hours four of the deer killed this morning; and one +of our men declared that they had besides dragged a large buck about +thirty yards, skinned it, and broken the backbone.” + +The vulture here referred to is better known as the California condor, a +great bird of prey which is now so nearly extinct that few specimens +are ever seen, and the eggs command a great price from those who make +collections of such objects. A condor killed by one of the hunters of +the Lewis and Clark expedition measured nine feet and six inches from +tip to tip of its wings, three feet and ten inches from the point of the +bill to the end of the tail, and six inches and a half from the back of +the head to the tip of the beak. Very few of the condors of the Andes +are much larger than this, though one measuring eleven feet from tip to +tip has been reported. + +While camped at Quicksand, or Sandy River, the party learned that food +supplies up the Columbia were scarce. The journal says that the Indians +met here were descending the river in search of food. It adds:-- + +“They told us, that they lived at the Great Rapids; but that the +scarcity of provisions there had induced them to come down, in the hopes +of finding subsistence in the more fertile valley. All the people living +at the Rapids, as well as the nations above them, were in much distress +for want of food, having consumed their winter store of dried fish, and +not expecting the return of the salmon before the next full moon, +which would be on the second of May: this information was not a little +embarrassing. From the Falls to the Chopunnish nation, the plains +afforded neither deer, elk, nor antelope for our subsistence. The +horses were very poor at this season, and the dogs must be in the same +condition, if their food, the dried fish, had failed. Still, it was +obviously inexpedient for us to wait for the return of the salmon, +since in that case we might not reach the Missouri before the ice would +prevent our navigating it. We might, besides, hazard the loss of our +horses, as the Chopunnish, with whom we had left them, would cross the +mountains as early as possible, or about the beginning of May, and take +our horses with them, or suffer them to disperse, in either of which +cases the passage of the mountains will be almost impracticable. We +therefore, after much deliberation, decided to remain where we were +till we could collect meat enough to last us till we should reach the +Chopunnish nation, and to obtain canoes from the natives as we ascended, +either in exchange for our pirogues, or by purchasing them with skins +and merchandise. These canoes, again, we might exchange for horses +with the natives of the plains, till we should obtain enough to travel +altogether by land. On reaching the southeast branch of the Columbia, +four or five men could be sent on to the Chopunnish to have our horses +in readiness; and thus we should have a stock of horses sufficient both +to transport our baggage and supply us with food, as we now perceived +that they would form our only certain dependance for subsistence.” + +On the third of April this entry is made:-- + +“A considerable number of Indians crowded about us to-day, many of whom +came from the upper part of the river. These poor wretches confirm +the reports of scarcity among the nations above; which, indeed, their +appearance sufficiently proved, for they seemed almost starved, and +greedily picked the bones and refuse meat thrown away by us. + +“In the evening Captain Clark returned from an excursion. On setting out +yesterday at half-past eleven o’clock, he directed his course along +the south side of the (Columbia) river, where, at the distance of eight +miles, he passed a village of the Nechacohee tribe, belonging to the +Eloot nation. The village itself is small, and being situated behind +Diamond Island, was concealed from our view as we passed both times +along the northern shore. He continued till three o’clock, when he +landed at the single house already mentioned as the only remains of a +village of twenty-four straw huts. Along the shore were great numbers +of small canoes for gathering wappatoo, which were left by the Shahalas, +who visit the place annually. The present inhabitants of the house are +part of the Neerchokioo tribe of the same (Shahala) nation. On entering +one of the apartments of the house, Captain Clark offered several +articles to the Indians in exchange for wappatoo; but they appeared +sullen and ill-humored, and refused to give him any. He therefore sat +down by the fire opposite the men, and taking a port-fire match from his +pocket, threw a small piece of it into the flame; at the same time he +took his pocket-compass, and by means of a magnet, which happened to be +in his inkhorn, made the needle turn round very briskly. The match now +took fire and burned violently, on which the Indians, terrified at this +strange exhibition, immediately brought a quantity of wappatoo and laid +it at his feet, begging him to put out the bad fire, while an old woman +continued to speak with great vehemence, as if praying and imploring +protection. Having received the roots, Captain Clark put up the compass, +and as the match went out of itself tranquillity was restored, though +the women and children still took refuge in their beds and behind the +men. He now paid them for what he had used, and after lighting his pipe +and smoking with them, continued down the river.” + +The excursion from which Captain Clark had returned, as noted in this +extract, was up the Multnomah River. As we have already seen, the +explorers missed that stream when they came down the Columbia; and they +had now passed it again unnoticed, owing to the number of straggling +islands that hide its junction with the Columbia. Convinced that a +considerable river must drain the region to the south, Captain Clark +went back alone and penetrating the intricate channels among the +islands, found the mouth of the Multnomah, now better known as the +Willamette. He was surprised to find that the depth of water in the +river was so great that large vessels might enter it. He would have been +much more surprised if he had been told that a large city, the largest +in Oregon, would some day be built on the site of the Indian huts which +he saw. Here Captain Clark found a house occupied by several families +of the Neechecolee nation. Their mansion was two hundred and twenty-six +feet long and was divided into apartments thirty feet square. + +The most important point in this region of the Columbia was named +Wappatoo Island by the explorers. This is a large extent of country +lying between the Willamette and an arm of the Columbia which they +called Wappatoo Inlet, but which is now known as Willamette Slough. +It is twenty miles long and from five to ten miles wide. Here is an +interesting description of the manner of gathering the roots of the +wappatoo, of which we have heard so much in this region of country:-- + +“The chief wealth of this island consists of the numerous ponds in the +interior, abounding with the common arrowhead (sagittaria sagittifolia) +to the root of which is attached a bulb growing beneath it in the mud. +This bulb, to which the Indians give the name of wappatoo,(1) is the +great article of food, and almost the staple article of commerce on the +Columbia. It is never out of season; so that at all times of the year +the valley is frequented by the neighboring Indians who come to gather +it. It is collected chiefly by the women, who employ for the purpose +canoes from ten to fourteen feet in length, about two feet wide and nine +inches deep, and tapering from the middle, where they are about twenty +inches wide. They are sufficient to contain a single person and several +bushels of roots, yet so very light that a woman can carry them with +ease. She takes one of these canoes into a pond where the water is as +high as the breast, and by means of her toes separates from the root +this bulb, which on being freed from the mud rises immediately to the +surface of the water, and is thrown into the canoe. In this manner these +patient females remain in the water for several hours, even in the depth +of winter. This plant is found through the whole extent of the valley in +which we now are, but does not grow on the Columbia farther eastward.” + + + (1) In the Chinook jargon “Wappatoo” stands for potato. + + +The natives of this inland region, the explorers found, were larger +and better-shaped than those of the sea-coast, but they were nearly +all afflicted with sore eyes. The loss of one eye was common, and not +infrequently total blindness was observed in men of mature years, while +blindness was almost universal among the old people. The white men +made good use of the eye-water which was among their supplies; it was +gratefully received by the natives and won them friends among the people +they met. On the fifth of April the journal has this entry:-- + +“In the course of his chase yesterday, one of our men (Collins), who +had killed a bear, found the den of another with three cubs in it. He +returned to-day in hopes of finding her, but brought only the cubs, +without being able to see the dam; and on this occasion Drewyer, our +most experienced huntsman, assured us that he had never known a single +instance where a female bear, which had once been disturbed by a hunter +and obliged to leave her young, returned to them again. The young bears +were sold for wappatoo to some of the many Indians who visited us in +parties during the day and behaved very well.” + +And on the ninth is this entry:-- + +“The wind having moderated, we reloaded the canoes and set out by seven +o’clock. We stopped to take up the two hunters who left us yesterday, +but were unsuccessful in the chase, and then proceeded to the Wahclellah +village, situated on the north side of the river, about a mile below +Beacon Rock. During the whole of the route from camp we passed along +under high, steep, and rocky sides of the mountains, which now close on +each side of the river, forming stupendous precipices, covered with +fir and white cedar. Down these heights frequently descend the most +beautiful cascades, one of which, a large creek, throws itself over +a perpendicular rock three hundred feet above the water, while other +smaller streams precipitate themselves from a still greater elevation, +and evaporating in a mist, collect again and form a second cascade +before they reach the bottom of the rocks. We stopped to breakfast at +this village. We here found the tomahawk which had been stolen from us +on the fourth of last November. They assured us they had bought it of +the Indians below; but as the latter had already informed us that the +Wahclellahs had such an article, which they had stolen, we made no +difficulty about retaking our property.” + +The Columbia along the region through which the expedition was now +passing is a very wild and picturesque stream. The banks are high and +rocky, and some of the precipices to which the journal refers are of +a vast perpendicular height. On the Oregon side of the river are five +cascades such as those which the journal mentions. The most famous and +beautiful of these is known as Multnomah Falls. This cataract has a +total fall of more than six hundred feet, divided into two sections. The +other cascades are the Bridal Veil, the Horsetail, the Latourelle, and +the Oneonta, and all are within a few miles of each other. + +On the ninth of April the voyagers reached the point at which they were +to leave tidewater, fifty-six miles above the mouth of the Multnomah, or +Willamette. They were now at the entrance of the great rapids which are +known as the Cascades of the Columbia, and which occupy a space on the +river about equal to four miles and a half. They were still navigating +the stream with their canoes, camping sometimes on the north side and +sometimes on the south side of the river. This time they camped on the +north side, and during the night lost one of their boats, which got +loose and drifted down to the next village of the Wahclellahs, some of +whom brought it back to the white men’s camp and were rewarded for their +honesty by a present of two knives. It was found necessary to make a +portage here, but a long and severe rainstorm set in, and the tents and +the skins used for protecting the baggage were soaked. The journal goes +on with the narrative thus:-- + +We determined to take the canoes first over the portage, in hopes that +by the afternoon the rain would cease, and we might carry our baggage +across without injury. This was immediately begun by almost the whole +party, who in the course of the day dragged four of the canoes to the +head of the rapids, with great difficulty and labor. A guard, consisting +of one sick man and three who had been lamed by accidents, remained with +Captain Lewis (and a cook) to guard the baggage. This precaution +was absolutely necessary to protect it from the Wahclellahs, whom we +discovered to be great thieves, notwithstanding their apparent honesty +in restoring our boat; indeed, so arrogant and intrusive have they +become that nothing but our numbers, we are convinced, saves us from +attack. They crowded about us while we were taking up the boats, and one +of them had the insolence to throw stones down the bank at two of our +men. + +“We now found it necessary to depart from our mild and pacific course of +conduct. On returning to the head of the portage, many of them met our +men and seemed very ill-disposed. Shields had stopped to purchase a dog, +and being separated from the rest of the party, two Indians pushed +him out of the road, and attempted to take the dog from him. He had no +weapon but a long knife, with which he immediately attacked them both, +hoping to put them to death before they had time to draw their arrows; +but as soon as they saw his design they fled into the woods. Soon +afterward we were told by an Indian who spoke Clatsop, which we had +ourselves learned during the winter, that the Wahclellahs had carried +off Captain Lewis’ dog to their village below. Three men well armed were +instantly despatched in pursuit of them, with orders to fire if there +was the slightest resistance or hesitation. At the distance of two miles +they came within sight of the thieves, who, finding themselves pursued, +left the dog and made off. We now ordered all the Indians out of our +camp, and explained to them that whoever stole any of our baggage, or +insulted our men, should be instantly shot; a resolution which we were +determined to enforce, as it was now our only means of safety. + +“We were visited during the day by a chief of the Clahclellahs, who +seemed mortified at the behavior of the Indians, and told us that the +persons at the head of their outrages were two very bad men who belonged +to the Wahclellah tribe, but that the nation did not by any means wish +to displease us. This chief seemed very well-disposed, and we had every +reason to believe was much respected by the neighboring Indians. We +therefore gave him a small medal and showed him all the attention in our +power, with which he appeared very much gratified.” + +The portage of these rapids was very difficult and tiresome. The total +distance of the first stage was twenty-eight hundred yards along a +narrow way rough with rocks and now slippery with rain. One of the +canoes was lost here by being driven out into the strong current, where +the force of the water was so great that it could not be held by the +men; the frail skiff drifted down the rapids and disappeared. They now +had two canoes and two periogues left, and the loads were divided among +these craft. This increased the difficulties of navigation, and Captain +Lewis crossed over to the south side of the river in search of canoes +to be purchased from the Indians, who lived in a village on that side of +the stream. The narrative continues: + +“The village now consisted of eleven houses, crowded with inhabitants, +and about sixty fighting men. They were very well disposed, and we found +no difficulty in procuring two small canoes, in exchange for two robes +and four elk-skins. He also purchased with deer-skins three dogs,--an +animal which has now become a favorite food, for it is found to be a +strong, healthy diet, preferable to lean deer or elk, and much superior +to horseflesh in any state. With these he proceeded along the south side +of the river, and joined us in the evening.” + +Above the rapids the party encountered two tribes of Indians from whom +they endeavored to buy horses, for they were now approaching a point +when they must leave the river and travel altogether by land. One of +these tribes was known as the Weocksockwillacurns, and the other was the +Chilluckittequaws. These jaw-breaking names are commended to those who +think that the Indian names of northern Maine are difficult to handle. +Trees were now growing scarcer, and the wide lowlands spread out before +the explorers stretched to the base of the Bitter Root Mountains +without trees, but covered with luxuriant grass and herbage. After being +confined so long to the thick forests and mountains of the seacoast, the +party found this prospect very exhilarating, notwithstanding the absence +of forests and thickets. The climate, too, was much more agreeable than +that to which they had lately been accustomed, being dry and pure. + + + + +Chapter XX -- The Last Stage of the Columbia + +On the thirteenth of April the party reached the series of falls and +rapids which they called the Long Narrows. At the point reached the +river is confined, for a space of about fourteen miles, to narrow +channels and rocky falls. The Long Narrows are now known as the Dalles. +The word “dalles” is French, and signifies flagstones, such as are used +for sidewalks. Many of the rocks in these narrows are nearly flat on +top, and even the precipitous banks look like walls of rock. At the +upper end of the rapids, or dalles, is Celilo City, and at the lower end +is Dalles City, sometimes known as “The Dalles.” Both of these places +are in Oregon; the total fall of the water from Celilo to the Dalles +is over eighty feet. Navigation of these rapids is impossible. As the +explorers had no further use for their pirogues, they broke them up for +fuel. The merchandise was laboriously carried around on the river bank. +They were able to buy four horses from the Skilloots for which they paid +well in goods. It was now nearly time for the salmon to begin to run, +and under date of April 19 the journal has this entry:-- + +“The whole village was filled with rejoicing to-day at having caught a +single salmon, which was considered as the harbinger of vast quantities +in four or five days. In order to hasten their arrival the Indians, +according to custom, dressed the fish and cut it into small pieces, +one of which was given to each child in the village. In the good humor +excited by this occurrence they parted, though reluctantly, with four +other horses, for which we gave them two kettles, reserving only a +single small one for a mess of eight men. Unluckily, however, we lost +one of the horses by the negligence of the person to whose charge he +was committed. The rest were, therefore, hobbled and tied; but as the +nations here do not understand gelding, all the horses but one were +stallions; this being the season when they are most vicious, we had +great difficulty in managing them, and were obliged to keep watch over +them all night. . . . + +“As it was obviously our interest to preserve the goodwill of these +people, we passed over several small thefts which they committed, but +this morning we learnt that six tomahawks and a knife had been stolen +during the night. We addressed ourselves to the chief, who seemed angry +with his people, and made a harangue to them; but we did not recover +the articles, and soon afterward two of our spoons were missing. We +therefore ordered them all from our camp, threatening to beat severely +any one detected in purloining. This harshness irritated them so much +that they left us in an ill-humor, and we therefore kept on our guard +against any insult. Besides this knavery, the faithlessness of the +people is intolerable; frequently, after receiving goods in exchange for +a horse, they return in a few hours and insist on revoking the bargain +or receiving some additional value. We discovered, too, that the horse +which was missing yesterday had been gambled away by the fellow from +whom we had purchased him, to a man of a different nation, who had +carried him off. We succeeded in buying two more horses, two dogs, and +some chappelell, and also exchanged a couple of elk-skins for a gun +belonging to the chief. . . . One of the canoes, for which the Indians +would give us very little, was cut up for fuel; two others, together +with some elk-skins and pieces of old iron, we bartered for beads, and +the remaining two small ones were despatched early next morning, with +all the baggage which could not be carried on horseback. We had intended +setting out at the same time, but one of our horses broke loose during +the night, and we were under the necessity of sending several men in +search of him. In the mean time, the Indians, who were always on the +alert, stole a tomahawk, which we could not recover, though several of +them were searched; and another fellow was detected in carrying off +a piece of iron, and kicked out of camp; upon which Captain Lewis, +addressing them, told them he was not afraid to fight them, for, if he +chose, he could easily put them all to death, and burn their village, +but that he did not wish to treat them ill if they kept from stealing; +and that, although, if he could discover who had the tomahawks, he would +take away their horses, yet he would rather lose the property altogether +than take the horse of an innocent man. The chiefs were present at this +harangue, hung their heads, and made no reply. + +“At ten o’clock the men returned with the horse, and soon after an +Indian, who had promised to go with us as far as the Chopunnish, came +with two horses, one of which he politely offered to assist in carrying +our baggage. We therefore loaded nine horses, and, giving the tenth to +Bratton, who was still too sick to walk, at about ten o’clock left the +village of these disagreeable people.” + +At an Indian village which they reached soon after leaving that of the +disagreeable Skilloots, they found the fellow who had gambled away +the horse that he had sold. Being faced with punishment, he agreed to +replace the animal he had stolen with another, and a very good horse was +brought to satisfy the white men, who were now determined to pursue a +rigid course with the thievish Indians among whom they found themselves. +These people, the Eneeshurs, were stingy, inhospitable, and overbearing +in their ways. Nothing but the formidable numbers of the white men saved +them from insult, pillage, and even murder. While they were here, one of +the horses belonging to the party broke loose and ran towards the Indian +village. A buffalo robe attached to him fell off and was gathered in by +one of the Eneeshurs. Captain Lewis, whose patience was now exhausted, +set out, determined to burn the village unless the Indians restored the +robe. Fortunately, however, one of his men found the missing article +hidden in a hut, and so any act of violent reprisal was not necessary. + +So scarce had now become fuel, the party were obliged to buy what little +wood they required for their single cooking-fire. They could not afford +a fire to keep them warm, and, as the nights were cold and they lay +without any shelter, they were most uncomfortable, although the days +were warm. They were now travelling along the Columbia River, using +their horses for a part of their luggage, and towing the canoes with the +remainder of the stuff. On the twenty-third of April they arrived at the +mouth of Rock Creek, on the Columbia, a considerable stream which they +missed as they passed this point on their way down, October 21. Here +they met a company of Indians called the Wahhowpum, with whom they +traded pewter buttons, strips of tin and twisted wire for roots, dogs, +and fuel. These people were waiting for the arrival of the salmon. The +journal says:-- + +“After arranging the camp we assembled all the warriors, and having +smoked with them, the violins were produced, and some of the men danced. +This civility was returned by the Indians in a style of dancing, such as +we had not yet seen. The spectators formed a circle round the dancers, +who, with their robes drawn tightly round the shoulders, and divided +into parties of five or six men, perform by crossing in a line from one +side of the circle to the other. All the parties, performers as well as +spectators, sing, and after proceeding in this way for some time, the +spectators join, and the whole concludes by a promiscuous dance and +song. Having finished, the natives retired at our request, after +promising to barter horses with us in the morning.” + +They bought three horses of these Indians and hired three more from a +Chopunnish who was to accompany them. The journal adds:-- + +“The natives also had promised to take our canoes in exchange for +horses; but when they found that we were resolved on travelling by land +they refused giving us anything, in hopes that we would be forced to +leave them. Disgusted at this conduct, we determined rather to cut them +to pieces than suffer these people to enjoy them, and actually began +to split them, on which they gave us several strands of beads for each +canoe. We had now a sufficient number of horses to carry our baggage, +and therefore proceeded wholly by land.” + +Next day the party camped near a tribe of Indians known as the +Pishquitpah. These people had never seen white men before, and they +flocked in great numbers around the strangers, but were very civil and +hospitable, although their curiosity was rather embarrassing. These +people were famous hunters, and both men and women were excellent +riders. They were now travelling on the south side of the river, in +Oregon, and, after leaving the Pishquitpahs, they encountered the +“Wollawollahs,” as they called them. These Indians are now known as the +Walla Walla tribe, and their name is given to a river, a town, and a +fort of the United States. In several of the Indian dialects walla means +“running water,” and when the word is repeated, it diminishes the size +of the object; so that Walla Walla means “little running water.” Near +here the explorers passed the mouth of a river which they called the +Youmalolam; it is a curious example of the difficulty of rendering +Indian names into English. The stream is now known as the Umatilla. +Here they found some old acquaintances of whom the journal has this +account:-- + +“Soon after we were joined by seven Wollawollahs, among whom we +recognized a chief by the name of Yellept, who had visited us on the +nineteenth of October, when we gave him a medal with the promise of a +larger one on our return. He appeared very much pleased at seeing us +again, and invited us to remain at his village three or four days, +during which he would supply us with the only food they had, and furnish +us with horses for our journey. After the cold, inhospitable treatment +we have lately received, this kind offer was peculiarly acceptable; and +after a hasty meal we accompanied him to his village, six miles above, +situated on the edge of the low country, about twelve miles below the +mouth of Lewis’ River. + +“Immediately on our arrival Yellept, who proved to be a man of much +influence, not only in his own but in the neighboring nations, collected +the inhabitants, and having made a harangue, the purport of which was +to induce the nations to treat us hospitably, he set them an example +by bringing himself an armful of wood, and a platter containing three +roasted mullets. They immediately assented to one part, at least, of the +recommendation, by furnishing us with an abundance of the only sort of +fuel they employ, the stems of shrubs growing in the plains. We then +purchased four dogs, on which we supped heartily, having been on short +allowance for two days past. When we were disposed to sleep, the Indians +retired immediately on our request, and indeed, uniformly conducted +themselves with great propriety. These people live on roots, which +are very abundant in the plains, and catch a few salmon-trout; but at +present they seem to subsist chiefly on a species of mullet, weighing +from one to three pounds. They informed us that opposite the village +there was a route which led to the mouth of the Kooskooskee, on the +south side of Lewis’ River; that the road itself was good, and passed +over a level country well supplied with water and grass; and that we +should meet with plenty of deer and antelope. We knew that a road in +that direction would shorten the distance at least eighty miles; and as +the report of our guide was confirmed by Yellept and other Indians, we +did not hesitate to adopt this route: they added, however, that there +were no houses, nor permanent Indian residences on the road and that it +would therefore be prudent not to trust wholly to our guns, but to lay +in a stock of provisions. + +“Taking their advice, therefore, we next day purchased ten dogs. While +the trade for these was being conducted by our men, Yellept brought a +fine white horse, and presented him to Captain Clark, expressing at the +same time a wish to have a kettle; but, on being informed that we had +already disposed of the last kettle we could spare, he said he would be +content with any present we chose to make him in return. Captain Clark +thereupon gave him his sword, for which the chief had before expressed a +desire, adding one hundred balls, some powder, and other small articles, +with which he appeared perfectly satisfied. We were now anxious to +depart, and requested Yellept to lend us canoes for the purpose of +crossing the river; but he would not listen to any proposal of the kind. +He wished us to remain for two or three days; but, at all events, would +not consent to our going to-day, for he had already sent to invite his +neighbors, the Chimnapoos, to come down this evening and join his people +in a dance for our amusement. We urged in vain that, by setting out +sooner, we would the earlier return with the articles they desired; +for a day, he observed, would make but little difference. We at length +mentioned that, as there was no wind it was now the best time to cross +the river, and we would merely take the horses over and return to sleep +at their village. To this he assented; we then crossed with our horses, +and having hobbled them, returned to their camp. + +“Fortunately, there was among these Wollwaollahs a prisoner belonging +to a tribe of Shoshonee or Snake Indians, residing to the south of the +Multnomah and visiting occasionally the heads of Wollawollah Creek. +Our Shoshonee woman, Sacajawea, though she belonged to a tribe near the +Missouri, spoke the same language as this prisoner; by their means we +were able to explain ourselves to the Indians, and answer all their +inquiries with respect to ourselves and the object of our journey. Our +conversation inspired them with much confidence, and they soon brought +several sick persons, for whom they requested our assistance. We +splintered (splinted) the broken arm of one, gave some relief to +another, whose knee was contracted by rheumatism, and administered what +we thought beneficial for ulcers and eruptions of the skin on various +parts of the body which are very common disorders among them. But our +most valuable medicine was eye-water, which we distributed, and which, +indeed, they required very much. + +“A little before sunset the Chimnapoos, amounting to one hundred men +and a few women, came to the village, and, joining the Wollawollahs, who +were about the same number of men, formed themselves in a circle round +our camp, and waited very patiently till our men were disposed to dance, +which they did for about an hour, to the music of the violin. They then +requested the Indians to dance. With this they readily complied; and the +whole assemblage, amounting, with the women and children of the village, +to several hundred, stood up, and sang and danced at the same time. +The exercise was not, indeed, very violent nor very graceful; for the +greater part of them were formed into a solid column, round a kind +of hollow square, stood on the same place, and merely jumped up at +intervals, to keep time to the music. Some, however, of the more active +warriors entered the square and danced round it sideways, and some of +our men joined in with them, to the great satisfaction of the Indians. +The dance continued till ten o’clock.” + +By the thirtieth of April the expedition was equipped with twenty-three +horses, most of which were young and excellent animals; but many of them +were afflicted with sore backs. All Indians are cruel masters and +hard riders, and their saddles are so rudely made that it is almost +impossible for an Indian’s horse to be free from scars; yet they +continue to ride after the animal’s back is scarified in the most +horrible manner. + +The expedition was now in what we know as Walla Walla County, +Washington, and they were travelling along the river Walla Walla, +leaving the Columbia, which has here a general direction of northerly. +The course of the party was northeast, their objective point being that +where Waitesburg is now built, near the junction of Coppie Creek and +the Touchet River. They were in a region of wood in plenty, and for the +first time since leaving the Long Narrows, or Dalles, they had as much +fuel as they needed. On the Touchet, accordingly, they camped for the +sake of having a comfortable night; the nights were cold, and a good +fire by which to sleep was an attraction not easily resisted. The +journal, April 30, has this entry:-- + +“We were soon supplied by Drewyer with a beaver and an otter, of which +we took only a part of the beaver, and gave the rest to the Indians. +The otter is a favorite food, though much inferior, at least in our +estimation, to the dog, which they will not eat. The horse is seldom +eaten, and never except when absolute necessity compels them, as the +only alternative to dying of hunger. This fastidiousness does not, +however, seem to proceed so much from any dislike to the food, as from +attachment to the animal itself; for many of them eat very heartily of +the horse-beef which we give them.” + +On the first day of May, having travelled forty miles from their camp +near the mouth of the Walla Walla, they camped between two points at +which are now situated the two towns of Prescott, on the south, and +Waitesburg, on the north. Their journal says:-- + +“We had scarcely encamped when three young men came up from the +Wollawollah village, with a steel-trap which had inadvertently been +left behind, and which they had come a whole day’s journey in order to +restore. This act of integrity was the more pleasing, because, though +very rare among Indians, it corresponded perfectly with the general +behavior of the Wollawollahs, among whom we had lost carelessly several +knives, which were always returned as soon as found. We may, indeed, +justly affirm, that of all the Indians whom we had met since leaving the +United States, the Wollawollahs were the most hospitable, honest, and +sincere.” + + + + +Chapter XXI -- Overland east of the Columbia + +It was now early in May, and the expedition, travelling eastward along +Touchet Creek, were in the country of their friends, the Chopunnish. On +the third, they were agreeably surprised to meet Weahkootnut, whom +they had named Bighorn from the fact that he wore a horn of that animal +suspended from his left arm. This man was the first chief of a large +band of Chopunnish, and when the expedition passed that way, on their +path to the Pacific, the last autumn, he was very obliging and useful to +them, guiding them down the Snake, or Lewis River. He had now heard +that the white men were on their return, and he had come over across the +hills to meet them. As we may suppose, the meeting was very cordial, and +Weahkootnut turned back with his white friends and accompanied them to +the mouth of the Kooskooskee, a stream of which our readers have heard +before; it is now known as the Clearwater. + +Captain Lewis told Weahkootnut that his people were hungry, their +slender stock of provisions being about exhausted. The chief told them +that they would soon come to a Chopunnish house where they could get +food. But the journal has this entry:-- + +“We found the house which Weahkootnut had mentioned, where we halted +for breakfast. It contained six families, so miserably poor that all +we could obtain from them were two lean dogs and a few large cakes of +half-cured bread, made of a root resembling the sweet potato, of all +which we contrived to form a kind of soup. The soil of the plain is +good, but it has no timber. The range of southwest mountains is about +fifteen miles above us, but continues to lower, and is still covered +with snow to its base. After giving passage to Lewis’ (Snake) River, +near their northeastern extremity, they terminate in a high level plain +between that river and the Kooskooskee. The salmon not having yet called +them to the rivers, the greater part of the Chopunnish are now dispersed +in villages through this plain, for the purpose of collecting quamash +and cows, which here grow in great abundance, the soil being extremely +fertile, in many places covered with long-leaved pine, larch, and +balsam-fir, which contribute to render it less thirsty than the open, +unsheltered plains.” + +By the word “cows,” in this sentence, we must understand that the +story-teller meant cowas, a root eaten by the Indians and white +explorers in that distant region. It is a knobbed, irregular root, and +when cooked resembles the ginseng. At this place the party met some of +the Indians whom Captain Clark had treated for slight diseases, when +they passed that way, the previous autumn. They bad sounded the praises +of the white men and their medicine, and others were now waiting to +be treated in the same manner. The Indians were glad to pay for their +treatment, and the white men were not sorry to find this easy method of +adding to their stock of food, which was very scanty at this time. The +journal sagely adds, “We cautiously abstain from giving them any +but harmless medicines; and as we cannot possibly do harm, our +prescriptions, though unsanctioned by the faculty, may be useful, and +are entitled to some remuneration.” Very famous and accomplished doctors +might say the same thing of their practice. But the explorers did +not meet with pleasant acquaintances only; in the very next entry is +recorded this disagreeable incident: + +“Four miles beyond this house we came to another large one, containing +ten families, where we halted and made our dinner on two dogs and +a small quantity of roots, which we did not procure without much +difficulty. Whilst we were eating, an Indian standing by, looking with +great derision at our eating dogs, threw a poor half-starved puppy +almost into Captain Lewis’ plate, laughing heartily at the humor of it. +Captain Lewis took up the animal and flung it with great force into the +fellow’s face; and seizing his tomahawk, threatened to cut him down if +he dared to repeat such insolence. He immediately withdrew, apparently +much mortified, and we continued our repast of dog very quietly. Here we +met our old Chopunnish guide, with his family; and soon afterward one +of our horses, which had been separated from the rest in charge of +Twisted-hair, and had been in this neighborhood for several weeks, was +caught and restored to us.” + +Later in that day the party came to a Chopunnish house which was one +hundred and fifty-six feet long and fifteen feet wide. Thirty families +were living in this big house, each family having its fire by itself +burning on the earthen floor, along through the middle of the great +structure. The journal says:-- + +“We arrived very hungry and weary, but could not purchase any +provisions, except a small quantity of the roots and bread of the +cows. They had, however, heard of our medical skill, and made many +applications for assistance, but we refused to do anything unless they +gave us either dogs or horses to eat. We soon had nearly fifty patients. +A chief brought his wife with an abscess on her back, and promised +to furnish us with a horse to-morrow if we would relieve her. Captain +Clark, therefore, opened the abscess, introduced a tent, and dressed it +with basilicon. We also prepared and distributed some doses of flour of +sulphur and cream of tartar, with directions for its use. For these we +obtained several dogs, but too poor for use, and therefore postponed +our medical operations till the morning. In the mean time a number of +Indians, besides the residents of the village, gathered about us or +camped in the woody bottom of the creek.” + +It will be recollected that when the expedition was in this region (on +the Kooskooskee), during the previous September, on their way westward, +they left their horses with Chief Twisted-hair, travelling overland +from that point. They were now looking for that chief, and the journal +says:-- + +“About two o’clock we collected our horses and set out, accompanied by +Weahkoonut, with ten or twelve men and a man who said he was the brother +of Twisted-hair. At four miles we came to a single house of three +families, but could not procure provisions of any kind; and five miles +further we halted for the night near another house, built like the rest, +of sticks, mats, and dried hay, and containing six families. It was now +so difficult to procure anything to eat that our chief dependence was +on the horse which we received yesterday for medicine; but to our great +disappointment he broke the rope by which he was confined, made his +escape, and left us supperless in the rain.” + +Next day they met an Indian who brought them two canisters of powder, +which they at once knew to be some of that which they had buried last +autumn. The Indian said that his dog had dug it up in the meadow by the +river, and he had restored it to its rightful owners. As a reward for +his honesty, the captains gave him a flint and steel for striking fire; +and they regretted that their own poverty prevented them from being more +liberal to the man. + +They observed that the Rocky Mountains, now in full sight, were still +covered with snow, and the prospect of crossing them was not very rosy. +Their Chopunnish guide told them that it would be impossible to cross +the mountains before the next full moon, which would be about the first +of June. The journal adds: “To us, who are desirous of reaching the +plains of the Missouri--if for no other reason, for the purpose of +enjoying a good meal--this intelligence was by no means welcome, and +gave no relish to the remainder of the horse killed at Colter’s Creek, +which formed our supper, as part of which had already been our dinner.” + Next day, accordingly, the hunters turned out early in the morning, and +before noon returned with four deer and a duck, which, with the +remains of horse-beef on hand, gave them a much more plentiful stock +of provisions than had lately fallen to their lot. During the previous +winter, they were told, the Indians suffered very much for lack of food, +game of all sorts being scarce. They were forced to boil and eat the +moss growing on the trees, and they cut down the pine-trees for the sake +of the small nut to be found in the pine-cones. Here they were met by +an old friend, Neeshnepahkeeook and the Shoshonee, who had acted as +interpreter for them. The journal says:-- + +“We gave Neeshnepahkeeook and his people some of our game and +horse-beef, besides the entrails of the deer, and four fawns which we +found inside of two of them. They did not eat any of them perfectly raw, +but the entrails had very little cooking; the fawns were boiled whole, +and the hide, hair, and entrails all consumed. The Shoshonee was +offended at not having as much venison as he wished, and refused to +interpret; but as we took no notice of him, he became very officious in +the course of a few hours, and made many efforts to reinstate himself in +our favor. The brother of Twisted-hair, and Neeshnepahkeeook, now drew +a sketch, which we preserved, of all the waters west of the Rocky +Mountains.” + +They now met Twisted-hair, in whose care they had left their horses and +saddles the previous fall, and this was the result of their inquiries:-- + +“Between three and four o’clock in the afternoon we set out, in company +with Neeshuepahkeeook and other Indians, the brother of Twisted-hair +having left us. Our route was up a high steep hill to a level plain +with little wood, through which we passed in a direction parallel to the +(Kooskooskee) River for four miles, when we met Twisted-hair and six of +his people. To this chief we had confided our horses and a part of +our saddles last autumn, and we therefore formed very unfavorable +conjectures on finding that he received us with great coldness. Shortly +afterward he began to speak in a very loud, angry manner, and was +answered by Neeshnepahkeeook. We now discovered that a violent quarrel +had arisen between these chiefs, on the subject, as we afterward +understood, of our horses. But as we could not learn the cause, and were +desirous of terminating the dispute, we interposed, and told them we +should go on to the first water and camp. We therefore set out, followed +by all the Indians, and having reached, at two miles’ distance, a small +stream running to the right, we camped with the two chiefs and their +little bands, forming separate camps at a distance from each other. They +all appeared to be in an ill humor; and as we had already heard reports +that the Indians had discovered and carried off our saddles, and that +the horses were very much scattered, we began to be uneasy, lest there +should be too much foundation for the report. We were therefore anxious +to reconcile the two chiefs as soon as possible, and desired the +Shoshonee to interpret for us while we attempted a mediation, but be +peremptorily refused to speak a word. He observed that it was a quarrel +between the two chiefs, and he had therefore no right to interfere; nor +could all our representations, that by merely repeating what we said he +could not possibly be considered as meddling between the chiefs, induce +him to take any part in it. + +“Soon afterward Drewyer returned from hunting, and was sent to invite +Twisted-hair to come and smoke with us. He accepted the invitation, and +as we were smoking the pipe over our fire he informed us that according +to his promise on leaving us at the falls of the Columbia, he had +collected our horses and taken charge of them as soon as he reached +home. But about this time Neeshnepahkeeook and Turmachemootoolt +(Broken-arm), who, as we passed, were on a war-party against the +Shoshonees on the south branch of Lewis’ River, returned; and becoming +jealous of him, because the horses had been confided to his care, +were constantly quarrelling with him. At length, being an old man and +unwilling to live in perpetual dispute with these two chiefs, he had +given up the care of the horses, which had consequently become very +much scattered. The greater part of them were, however, still in the +neighborhood; some in the forks between the Chopunnish and Kooskooskee, +and three or four at the village of Broken Arm, about half a day’s march +higher up the river. He added, that on the rise of the river in the +spring, the earth had fallen from the door of the cache, and exposed the +saddles, some of which had probably been lost; but that, as soon as he +was acquainted with the situation of them, he had them buried in another +deposit, where they now were. He promised that, if we would stay the +next day at his house, a few miles distant, he would collect such of the +horses as were in the neighborhood, and send his young men for those in +the forks, over the Kooskooskee. He moreover advised us to visit Broken +Arm, who was a chief of great eminence, and he would himself guide us to +his dwelling. + +“We told him that we would follow his advice in every respect; that we +had confided our horses to his care, and expected he would deliver +them to us, on which we should cheerfully give him the two guns and the +ammunition we had promised him. With this he seemed very much pleased, +and declared he would use every exertion to restore the horses. We now +sent for Neesbnepahkeeook, or Cut Nose, and, after smoking for some +time, began by expressing to the two chiefs our regret at seeing a +misunderstanding between them. Neeshnepahkeeook replied that Twisted +Hair was a bad old man, and wore two faces; for, instead of taking care +of our horses, he had suffered his young men to hunt with them, so that +they had been very much injured, and it was for this reason that Broken +Arm and himself had forbidden him to use them. Twisted Hair made +no reply to this speech, and we then told Neeshnepahkeeook of our +arrangement for the next day. He appeared to be very well satisfied, and +said he would himself go with us to Broken Arm, who expected to see us, +and had TWO BAD HORSES FOR US; by which expression we understood that +Broken Arm intended to make us a present of two horses.” + +Next day, the party reached the house of Twisted-hair, and began to +look for their horses and saddles. The journal gives this account of the +search:-- + +“Late in the afternoon, Twisted-hair returned with about half the +saddles we had left in the autumn, and some powder and lead which were +buried at the same place. Soon after, the Indians brought us twenty-one +of our horses, the greater part of which were in excellent order, though +some had not yet recovered from hard usage, and three had sore backs. +We were, however, very glad to procure them in any condition. Several +Indians came down from the village of Tunnachemootoolt and passed the +night with us. Cut-nose and Twisted-hair seem now perfectly reconciled, +for they both slept in the house of the latter. The man who had imposed +himself upon us as a brother of Twisted-hair also came and renewed his +advances, but we now found that he was an impertinent, proud fellow, of +no respectability in the nation, and we therefore felt no inclination to +cultivate his intimacy. Our camp was in an open plain, and soon became +very uncomfortable, for the wind was high and cold, and the rain and +hail, which began about seven o’clock, changed in two hours to a heavy +fall of snow, which continued till after six o’clock (May 10th), the +next morning, when it ceased, after covering the ground eight inches +deep and leaving the air keen and cold. We soon collected our horses, +and after a scanty breakfast of roots set out on a course S. 35'0 E.” + +They were now following the general course of the Kooskooskee, or +Clearwater, as the stream is called, and their route lay in what is now +Nez Perce County, Idaho. They have passed the site of the present city +of Lewiston, named for Captain Lewis. They have arrived in a region +inhabited by the friendly Chopunnish, or Nez Perce, several villages +of which nation were scattered around the camp of the white men. The +narrative says: + +“We soon collected the men of consideration, and after smoking, +explained how destitute we were of provisions. The chief spoke to the +people, who immediately brought two bushels of dried quamash-roots, some +cakes of the roots of cows, and a dried salmon-trout; we thanked them +for this supply, but observed that, not being accustomed to live on +roots alone, we feared that such diet might make our men sick, and +therefore proposed to exchange one of our good horses, which was rather +poor, for one that was fatter, and which we might kill. The hospitality +of the chief was offended at the idea of an exchange; he observed +that his people had an abundance of young horses, and that if we +were disposed to use that food we might have as many as we wanted. +Accordingly, they soon gave us two fat young horses, without asking +anything in return, an act of liberal hospitality much greater than any +we have witnessed since crossing the Rocky Mountains, if it be not in +fact the only really hospitable treatment we have received in this part +of the world. We killed one of the horses, and then telling the natives +that we were fatigued and hungry, and that as soon as we were refreshed +we would communicate freely with them, began to prepare our repast. + +“During this time a principal chief, called Hohastillpilp, came from +his village, about six miles distant, with a party of fifty men, for the +purpose of visiting us. We invited him into our circle, and he alighted +and smoked with us, while his retinue, with five elegant horses, +continued mounted at a short distance. While this was going on, the +chief had a large leathern tent spread for us, and desired that we +would make it our home so long as we remained at his village. We removed +there, and having made a fire, and cooked our supper of horseflesh +and roots, collected all the distinguished men present, and spent +the evening in making known who we were, what were the objects of +our journey, and in answering their inquiries. To each of the chiefs +Tunnachemootoolt and Hohastillpilp we gave a small medal, explaining +their use and importance as honorary distinctions both among the whites +and the red men. Our men were well pleased at once more having made a +hearty meal. They had generally been in the habit of crowding into the +houses of the Indians, to purchase provisions on the best terms they +could; for the inhospitality of the country was such, that often, in +the extreme of hunger, they were obliged to treat the natives with +but little ceremony; but this Twisted Hair had told us was very +disagreeable. Finding that these people are so kind and liberal, we +ordered our men to treat them with the greatest respect, and not +to throng round their fires, so that they now agree perfectly well +together. After the council the Indians felt no disposition to retire, +and our tent was filled with them all night.” + +As the expedition was here in a populous country, among many bands of +Indians, it was thought wise to have a powwow with the head men +and explain to them what were the intentions of the United States +Government. But, owing to the crooked course which their talk must needs +take, it was very difficult to learn if the Indians finally understood +what was said. Here is the journal’s account of the way in which the +powwow was conducted:-- + +“We collected the chiefs and warriors, and having drawn a map of +the relative situation of our country on a mat with a piece of coal, +detailed the nature and power of the American nation, its desire to +preserve harmony between all its red brethren, and its intention of +establishing trading-houses for their relief and support. It was not +without difficulty, nor till after nearly half the day was spent, that +we were able to convey all this information to the Chopunnish, much of +which might have been lost or distorted in its circuitous route through +a variety of languages; for in the first place, we spoke in English +to one of our men, who translated it into French to Chaboneau; he +interpreted it to his wife in the Minnetaree language; she then put it +into Shoshonee, and the young Shoshonee prisoner explained it to the +Chopunnish in their own dialect. At last we succeeded in communicating +the impression we wished, and then adjourned the council; after which +we amused them by showing the wonders of the compass, spy-glass, magnet, +watch, and air-gun, each of which attracted its share of admiration.” + +The simple-minded Indians, who seemed to think that the white men could +heal all manner of diseases, crowded around them next day, begging for +medicines and treatment. These were freely given, eye-water being most +in demand. There was a general medical powwow. The journal adds:-- + +“Shortly after, the chiefs and warriors held a council among themselves, +to decide on an answer to our speech, and the result was, as we were +informed, that they had full confidence in what we had told them, and +were resolved to follow our advice. This determination having been made, +the principal chief, Tunnachemootoolt, took a quantity of flour of +the roots of cow-weed (cowas), and going round to all the kettles and +baskets in which his people were cooking, thickened the soup into a +kind of mush. He then began an harangue, setting forth the result of the +deliberations among the chiefs, and after exhorting them to unanimity, +concluded with an invitation to all who acquiesced in the proceedings +of the council to come and eat; while those who were of a different +mind were requested to show their dissent by not partaking of the feast. +During this animated harangue, the women, who were probably uneasy at +the prospect of forming this proposed new connection with strangers, +tore their hair, and wrung their hands with the greatest appearance of +distress. But the concluding appeal of the orator effectually stopped +the mouths of every malecontent, and the proceedings were ratified, and +the mush devoured with the most zealous unanimity. + +“The chiefs and warriors then came in a body to visit us as we were +seated near our tent; and at their instance, two young men, one of whom +was a son of Tunnachemootoolt, and the other the youth whose father +had been killed by the Pahkees, presented to us each a fine horse. We +invited the chiefs to be seated, and gave every one of them a flag, a +pound of powder, and fifty balls, and a present of the same kind to the +young men from whom we had received the horses. They then invited us +into the tent, and said that they now wished to answer what we had +told them yesterday, but that many of their people were at that moment +waiting in great pain for our medical assistance.” + +It was agreed, therefore, that Captain Clark, who seems to have been +their favorite physician, should attend to the sick and lame, while +Captain Lewis should conduct a council with the chiefs and listen to +what they had to say. The upshot of the powwow was that the Chopunnish +said they had sent three of their warriors with a pipe to make peace +with the Shoshonees, last summer, as they had been advised to do by the +white men. The Shoshonees, unmindful of the sacredness of this +embassy, had killed the young warriors and had invited the battle which +immediately took place, in which the Chopunnish killed forty-two of the +Shoshonees, to get even for the wanton killing of their three young men. +The white men now wanted some of the Chopunnish to accompany them to +the plains of the Missouri, but the Indians were not willing to go until +they were assured that they would not be waylaid and slain by their +enemies of the other side of the mountains. The Chopunnish would think +over the proposal that some of their young men should go over the range +with the white men; a decision on this point should be reached before +the white men left the country. Anyhow, the white men might be sure +that the Indians would do their best to oblige their visitors. Their +conclusion was, “For, although we are poor, our hearts are good.” The +story of this conference thus concludes:-- + +“As soon as this speech was concluded, Captain Lewis replied at some +length; with this they appeared highly gratified, and after smoking the +pipe, made us a present of another fat horse for food. We, in turn, gave +Broken-arm a phial of eye-water, with directions to wash the eyes of all +who should apply for it; and as we promised to fill it again when it +was exhausted, he seemed very much pleased with our liberality. To +Twisted-hair, who had last night collected six more horses, we gave a +gun, one hundred balls, and two pounds of powder, and told him he should +have the same quantity when we received the remainder of our horses. In +the course of the day three more of them were brought in, and a fresh +exchange of small presents put the Indians in excellent humor. On our +expressing a wish to cross the river and form a camp, in order to hunt +and fish till the snows had melted, they recommended a position a few +miles distant, and promised to furnish us to-morrow with a canoe to +cross. We invited Twisted-hair to settle near our camp, for he has +several young sons, one of whom we hope to engage as a guide, and he +promised to do so. Having now settled all their affairs, the Indians +divided themselves into two parties, and began to play the game of +hiding a bone, already described as common to all the natives of this +country, which they continued playing for beads and other ornaments.” + +As there was so dismal a prospect for crossing the snow-covered +mountains at this season of the year, the captains of the expedition +resolved to establish a camp and remain until the season should be +further advanced. Accordingly, a spot on the north side of the river, +recommended to them by the Indians, was selected, and a move across +the stream was made. A single canoe was borrowed for the transit of the +baggage, and the horses were driven in to swim across, and the passage +was accomplished without loss. The camp was built on the site of an old +Indian house, in a circle about thirty yards in diameter, near the river +and in an advantageous position. As soon as the party were encamped, the +two Chopunnish chiefs came down to the opposite bank, and, with twelve +of their nation, began to sing. This was the custom of these people, +being a token of their friendship on such occasions. The captains sent +a canoe over for the chiefs, and, after smoking for some time, +Hohastillpilp presented Captain with a fine gray horse which he had +brought over for that purpose, and he was perfectly satisfied to receive +in return a handkerchief, two hundred balls, and four pounds of powder. + +Here is some curious information concerning the bears which they found +in this region. It must be borne in mind that they were still west of +the Bitter Root Mountains:-- + +“The hunters killed some pheasants, two squirrels, and a male and a +female bear, the first of which was large, fat, and of a bay color; the +second meagre, grizzly, and of smaller size. They were of the species +(Ursus horribilis) common to the upper part of the Missouri, and might +well be termed the variegated bear, for they are found occasionally of +a black, grizzly, brown, or red color. There is every reason to believe +them to be of precisely the same species. Those of different colors are +killed together, as in the case of these two, and as we found the white +and bay associated together on the Missouri; and some nearly white were +seen in this neighborhood by the hunters. Indeed, it is not common to +find any two bears of the same color; and if the difference in color +were to constitute a distinction of species, the number would increase +to almost twenty. Soon afterward the hunters killed a female bear with +two cubs. The mother was black, with a considerable intermixture of +white hairs and a white spot on the breast. One of the cubs was jet +black, and the other of a light reddish-brown or bay color. The hair +of these variegated bears is much finer, longer, and more abundant than +that of the common black bear; but the most striking differences between +them are that the former are larger and have longer tusks, and longer as +well as blunter talons; that they prey more on other animals; that they +lie neither so long nor so closely in winter quarters; and that they +never climb a tree, however closely pressed by the hunters. These +variegated bears, though specifically the same with those we met on the +Missouri, are by no means so ferocious; probably because the scarcity +of game and the habit of living on roots may have weaned them from the +practices of attacking and devouring animals. Still, however, they are +not so passive as the common black bear, which is also to be found here; +for they have already fought with our hunters, though with less fury +than those on the other side of the mountains. + +“A large part of the meat we gave to the Indians, to whom it was a real +luxury, as they scarcely taste flesh once in a month. They immediately +prepared a large fire of dried wood, on which was thrown a number of +smooth stones from the river. As soon as the fire went down and the +stones were heated, they were laid next to each other in a level +position, and covered with a quantity of pine branches, on which were +placed flitches of the meat, and then boughs and flesh alternately for +several courses, leaving a thick layer of pine on the top. On this heap +they then poured a small quantity of water, and covered the whole with +earth to the depth of four inches. After remaining in this state for +about three hours, the meat was taken off, and was really more tender +than that which we had boiled or roasted, though the strong flavor of +the pine rendered it disagreeable to our palates. This repast gave them +much satisfaction; for, though they sometimes kill the black bear, they +attack very reluctantly the fierce variegated bear; and never except +when they can pursue him on horseback over the plains, and shoot him +with arrows.” + + + + +Chapter XXII -- Camping with the Nez Perces + +Soon after they had fixed their camp, the explorers bade farewell to +their good friend Tunnachemootoolt and his young men, who returned +to their homes farther down the river. Others of the Nez Perce, or +Chopunnish, nation visited them, and the strangers were interested in +watching the Indians preparing for their hunt. As they were to hunt the +deer, they had the head, horns, and hide of that animal so prepared +that when it was placed on the head and body of a hunter, it gave a very +deceptive idea of a deer; the hunter could move the head of the decoy +so that it looked like a deer feeding, and the suspicious animals were +lured within range of the Indians’ bow and arrow. + +On the sixteenth of May, Hohastillpilp and his young men also left the +white men’s camp and returned to their own village. The hunters of the +party did not meet with much luck in their quest for game, only one deer +and a few pheasants being brought in for several days. The party were +fed on roots and herbs, a species of onion being much prized by them. +Bad weather confined them to their camp, and a common entry in their +journal refers to their having slept all night in a pool of water formed +by the falling rain; their tent-cover was a worn-out leathern affair +no longer capable of shedding the rain. While it rained in the meadows +where they were camped, they could see the snow covering the higher +plains above them; on those plains the snow was more than a foot deep, +and yet the plants and shrubs seemed to thrive in the midst of the snow. +On the mountains the snow was several feet in depth. The journalist +says: “So that within twenty miles of our camp we observe the rigors +of winter cold, the cool air of spring, and the oppressive heat of +midsummer.” They kept a shrewd lookout for the possibilities of future +occupation of the land by white men; and, writing here of country and +its character, the journalist says: “In short, this district affords +many advantages to settlers, and if properly cultivated, would yield +every object necessary for the comfort and subsistence of civilized +man.” But in their wildest dreams, Captains Lewis and Clark could not +have foreseen that in that identical region thrifty settlements of white +men should flourish and that the time would come when the scanty remnant +of the Chopunnish, whom we now call Nez Perces, would be gathered on a +reservation near their camping-place. But both of these things have come +to pass. + +In describing the dress of the Chopunnish, or Nez Perces, the +journal says that tippets, or collars, were worn by the men. “That +of Hohastillpilp,” says the journal, “was formed of human scalps and +adorned with the thumbs and fingers of several men slain by him in +battle.” And yet the journal immediately adds: “The Chopunnish are among +the most amiable men we have seen. Their character is placid and gentle, +rarely moved to passion, yet not often enlivened by gayety.” In short, +the Indians were amiable savages; and it is a savage trait to love to +destroy one’s enemies. + +Here is an entry in the journal of May 19 which will give the reader +some notion of the privations and the pursuits of the party while shut +up in camp for weary weeks in the early summer of 1806:-- + +“After a cold, rainy night, during a greater part of which we lay in the +water, the weather became fair; we then sent some men to a village above +us, on the opposite side, to purchase some roots. They carried with +them for this purpose a small collection of awls, knitting-pins, and +armbands, with which they obtained several bushels of the root of cows, +and some bread of the same material. They were followed, too, by a train +of invalids from the village, who came to ask for our assistance. The +men were generally afflicted with sore eyes; but the women had besides +this a variety of other disorders, chiefly rheumatic, a violent pain and +weakness in the loins, which is a common complaint among them; one of +them seemed much dejected, and as we thought, from the account of her +disease, hysterical. We gave her thirty drops of laudanum, and after +administering eye-water, rubbing the rheumatic patients with volatile +liniment, and giving cathartics to others, they all thought themselves +much relieved and returned highly satisfied to the village. We were +fortunate enough to retake one of the horses on which we (Captain Lewis) +had crossed the Rocky Mountains in the autumn, and which had become +almost wild since that time.” + +A day or two later, the journal has this significant entry: “On +parcelling out the stores, the stock of each man was found to be only +one awl, and one knitting-pin, half an ounce of vermilion, two needles, +a few skeins of thread, and about a yard of ribbon--a slender means of +bartering for our subsistence; but the men have been so much accustomed +to privations that now neither the want of meat nor the scanty funds +of the party excites the least anxiety among them.” To add to their +discomfort, there was a great deal of sickness in the camp, owing to the +low diet of the men. Sacajawea’s baby was ill with mumps and teething, +and it is suggested that the two captains would have been obliged to +“walk the floor all night,” if there had been any floor to walk on; as +it was, they were deprived of their nightly rest. Here is an example +of what the doctors would call heroic treatment by Captain Clark, who +conducted all such experiments:-- + +“With one of the men (Bratton) we have ventured an experiment of a very +robust nature. He has been for some time sick, but has now recovered his +flesh, eats heartily, and digests well, but has so great a weakness in +the loins that he cannot walk or even sit upright without extreme pain. +After we had in vain exhausted the resources of our art, one of the +hunters mentioned that he had known persons in similar situations to +be restored by violent sweats, and at the request of the patient, we +permitted the remedy to be applied. For this purpose a hole about four +feet deep and three in diameter was dug in the earth, and heated well +by a large fire in the bottom of it. The fire was then taken out, and +an arch formed over the hole by means of willow-poles, and covered +with several blankets so as to make a perfect awning. The patient being +stripped naked, was seated under this on a beach, with a piece of board +for his feet, and with a jug of water sprinkled the bottom and sides +of the hole, so as to keep up as hot a steam as he could bear. +After remaining twenty minutes in this situation, he was taken out, +immediately plunged twice in cold water, and brought back to the hole, +where he resumed the vapor bath. During all this time he drank copiously +a strong infusion of horse-mint, which was used as a substitute for +seneca-root, which our informant said he had seen employed on these +occasions, but of which there is none in this country. At the end +of three-quarters of an hour he was again withdrawn from the hole, +carefully wrapped, and suffered to cool gradually. This operation was +performed yesterday; this morning he walked about and is nearly free +from pain. About eleven o’clock a canoe arrived with three Indians, one +of whom was the poor creature who had lost the use of his limbs, and +for whose recovery the natives seem very anxious, as he is a chief of +considerable rank among them. His situation is beyond the reach of our +skill. He complains of no pain in any peculiar limb, and we therefore +think his disorder cannot be rheumatic, and his limbs would have been +more diminished if his disease had been a paralytic affection. We had +already ascribed it to his diet of roots, and had recommended his living +on fish and flesh, and using the cold bath every morning, with a dose of +cream of tartar or flowers of sulphur every third day.” + +It is gratifying to be able to record the fact that Bratton and the +Indian (who was treated in the same manner) actually recovered from +their malady. The journal says of the Indian that his restoration +was “wonderful.” This is not too strong a word to use under the +circumstances, for the chief had been helpless for nearly three years, +and yet he was able to get about and take care of himself after he had +been treated by Captain (otherwise Doctor) Clark. Two of his men met +with a serious disaster about this time; going across the river to trade +with some Indians, their boat was stove and went to the bottom, carrying +with it three blankets, a blanket-coat, and their scanty stock of +merchandise, all of which was utterly lost. Another disaster, which +happened next day, is thus recorded:-- + +“Two of our men, who had been up the river to trade with the Indians, +returned quite unsuccessful. Nearly opposite the village, their horse +fell with his load down a steep cliff into the river, across which he +swam. An Indian on the opposite side drove him back to them; but +in crossing most of the articles were lost and the paint melted. +Understanding their intentions, the Indians attempted to come over to +them, but having no canoe, were obliged to use a raft, which struck on a +rock, upset, and the whole store of roots and bread were destroyed. +This failure completely exhausted our stock of merchandise; but the +remembrance of what we suffered from cold and hunger during the passage +of the Rocky Mountains makes us anxious to increase our means of +subsistence and comfort, since we have again to encounter the same +inconvenience.” + +But the ingenuity of the explorers was equal to this emergency. Having +observed that the Indians were very fond of brass buttons, which they +fastened to their garments as ornaments, and not for the useful purpose +for which buttons are made, the men now proceeded to cut from their +shabby United States uniforms those desired articles, and thus formed a +new fund for trading purposes. To these they added some eye-water, some +basilicon, and a few small tin boxes in which phosphorus had been kept. +Basilicon, of which mention is frequently made in the journal, was an +ointment composed of black pitch, white wax, resin, and olive oil; it +was esteemed as a sovereign remedy for all diseases requiring an outward +application. With these valuables two men were sent out to trade with +the Indians, on the second day of June, and they returned with three +bushels of eatable roots and some cowas bread. Later in that day, a +party that had been sent down the river (Lewis’) in quest of food, +returned with a goodly supply of roots and seventeen salmon. These +fish, although partly spoiled by the long journey home, gave great +satisfaction to the hungry adventurers, for they were the promise of a +plenty to come when the salmon should ascend the rivers that make into +the Columbia. At this time we find the following interesting story in +the journal of the expedition:-- + +“We had lately heard, also, that some Indians, residing at a +considerable distance, on the south side of the Kooskooskee, were in +possession of two tomahawks, one of which had been left at our camp on +Moscheto Creek, and the other had been stolen while we were with the +Chopunnish in the autumn. This last we were anxious to obtain, in order +to give it to the relations of our unfortunate companion, Sergeant +Floyd,(1) to whom it once belonged. We therefore sent Drewyer, with the +two chiefs Neeshnepahkeeook and Hohastillpilp (who had returned to us) +to demand it. On their arrival, they found that the present possessor +of it, who had purchased it of the thief, was at the point of death; and +his relations were unwilling to give it up, as they wished to bury it in +the grave with the deceased. The influence of Neeshnepahkeeook, however, +at length prevailed; and they consented to surrender the tomahawk on +receiving two strands of beads and a handkerchief from Drewyer, and +from each of the chiefs a horse, to be killed at the funeral of their +kinsman, according to the custom of the country.” + + + (1) See page 23. + + +The Chopunnish chiefs now gave their final answer to the two captains +who had requested guides from them. The chiefs said that they could not +accompany the party, but later in the summer they might cross the great +divide and spend the next winter on the headwaters of the Missouri. At +present, they could only promise that some of their young men should go +with the whites; these had not been selected, but they would be sent on +after the party, if the two captains insisted on starting now. This +was not very encouraging, for they had depended upon the Indians for +guidance over the exceedingly difficult and even dangerous passages of +the mountains. Accordingly, it was resolved that, while waiting on the +motions of the Indians, the party might as well make a visit to Quamash +flats, where they could lay in a stock of provisions for their arduous +journey. It is not certain which of the several Quamash flats mentioned +in the history of the expedition is here referred to; but it is likely +that the open glade in which Captain Clark first struck the low country +of the west is here meant. It was here that he met the Indian boys +hiding in the grass, and from here he led the expedition out of the +wilderness. For “quamash” read “camass,” an edible root much prized by +the Nez Perces then and now. + +While they lingered at their camp, they were visited by several bands of +friendly Indians. The explorers traded horses with their visitors, +and, with what they already had, they now found their band to number +sixty-five, all told. Having finished their trading, they invited the +Indians to take part in the games of prisoners’ base and foot-racing; in +the latter game the Indians were very expert, being able to distance +the fleetest runner of the white men’s party. At night, the games +were concluded by a dance. The account of the expedition says that the +captains were desirous of encouraging these exercises before they +should begin the passage over the mountains, “as several of the men are +becoming lazy from inaction.” + +On the tenth of June the party set out for Quamash flats, each man well +mounted and leading a spare horse which carried a small load. To their +dismay, they found that their good friends, the Chopunnish, unwilling to +part with them, were bound to accompany them to the hunting-grounds. The +Indians would naturally expect to share in the hunt and to be provided +for by the white men. The party halted there only until the sixth of +June, and then, collecting their horses, set out through what proved to +be a very difficult trail up the creek on which they were camped, in +a northeasterly direction. There was still a quantity of snow on the +ground, although this was in shady places and hollows. Vegetation was +rank, and the dogtooth violet, honeysuckle, blue-bell, and columbine +were in blossom. The pale blue flowers of the quamash gave to the level +country the appearance of a blue lake. Striking Hungry Creek, which +Captain Clark had very appropriately named when he passed that way, the +previous September, they followed it up to a mountain for about three +miles, when they found themselves enveloped in snow; their limbs were +benumbed, and the snow, from twelve to fifteen feet deep, so paralyzed +their feet that further progress was impossible. Here the journal should +be quoted:-- + +“We halted at the sight of this new difficulty. We already knew that to +wait till the snows of the mountains had dissolved, so as to enable us +to distinguish the road, would defeat our design of returning to the +United States this season. We now found also that as the snow bore our +horses very well, travelling was infinitely easier than it was last +fall, when the rocks and fallen timber had so much obstructed our march. +But it would require five days to reach the fish-weirs at the mouth of +Colt (-killed) Creek, even if we were able to follow the proper ridges +of the mountains; and the danger of missing our direction is exceedingly +great while every track is covered with snow. During these five days, +too, we have no chance of finding either grass or underwood for our +horses, the snow being so deep. To proceed, therefore, under such +circumstances, would be to hazard our being bewildered in the mountains, +and to insure the loss of our horses; even should we be so fortunate as +to escape with our lives, we might be obliged to abandon all our papers +and collections. It was therefore decided not to venture any further; +to deposit here all the baggage and provisions for which we had no +immediate use; and, reserving only subsistence for a few days, to return +while our horses were yet strong to some spot where we might live +by hunting, till a guide could be procured to conduct us across the +mountains. Our baggage was placed on scaffolds and carefully covered, as +were also the instruments and papers, which we thought it safer to leave +than to risk over the roads and creeks by which we came.” + +There was nothing left to do but to return to Hungry Creek. Finding a +scanty supply of grass, they camped under most depressing circumstances; +their outlook now was the passing of four or five days in the midst +of snows from ten to fifteen feet deep, with no guide, no road, and +no forage. In this emergency, two men were sent back to the Chopunnish +country to hurry up the Indians who had promised to accompany them over +the mountains; and, to insure a guide, these men were authorized to +offer a rifle as a reward for any one who would undertake the task. For +the present, it was thought best to return to Quamash flats. + + + + +Chapter XXIII -- Crossing the Bitter Root Mountains + +Disasters many kept pace with the unhappy explorers on their way back +to Quamash flats after their rebuff at the base of the Bitter Root +Mountains. One of the horses fell down a rough and rocky place, carrying +his rider with him; but fortunately neither horse nor man was killed. +Next, a man, sent ahead to cut down the brush that blocked the path, cut +himself badly on the inside of his thigh and bled copiously. The hunters +sent out for game returned empty-handed. The fishermen caught no fish, +but broke the two Indian gigs, or contrivances for catching fish, with +which they had been provided. The stock of salt had given out, the +bulk of their supply having been left on the mountain. Several large +mushrooms were brought in by Cruzatte, but these were eaten without +pepper, salt, or any kind of grease,--“a very tasteless, insipid food,” + as the journal says. To crown all, the mosquitoes were pestilential in +their numbers and venom. + +Nevertheless, the leaders of the expedition were determined to press on +and pass the Bitter Root Mountains as soon as a slight rest at Quamash +flats should be had. If they should tarry until the snows melted from +the trail, they would be too late to reach the United States that winter +and would be compelled to pass the next winter at some camp high up on +the Missouri, as they had passed one winter at Fort Mandan, on their way +out. This is the course of argument which Captain Lewis and Clark took +to persuade each other as to the best way out of their difficulties:-- + +“The snows have formed a hard, coarse bed without crust, on which the +horses walk safely without slipping; the chief difficulty, therefore, is +to find the road. In this we may be assisted by the circumstance that, +though generally ten feet in depth, the snow has been thrown off by the +thick and spreading branches of the trees, and from round the trunk; +while the warmth of the trunk itself, acquired by the reflection of the +sun, or communicated by natural heat of the earth, which is never frozen +under these masses, has dissolved the snow so much that immediately at +the roots its depth is not more than one or two feet. We therefore hope +that the marks of the baggage rubbing against the trees may still be +perceived; and we have decided, in case the guide cannot be procured, +that one of us will take three or four of our most expert woodsmen, +several of our best horses, and an ample supply of provisions, go on two +days’ journey in advance, and endeavor to trace the route by the marks +of the Indian baggage on the trees, which we would then mark more +distinctly with a tomahawk. When they should have reached two days’ +journey beyond Hungry Creek, two of the men were to be sent back to +apprise the rest of their success, and if necessary to cause them to +delay there; lest, by advancing too soon, they should be forced to halt +where no food could be obtained for the horses. If the traces of the +baggage be too indistinct, the whole party is to return to Hungry Creek, +and we will then attempt the passage by ascending the main southwest +branch of Lewis’ River through the country of the Shoshonees, over to +Madison or Gallatin River. On that route, the Chopunnish inform us, +there is a passage not obstructed by snow at this period of the year.” + +On their return to Quamash flats the party met two Indians who, after +some parley, agreed to pilot them over the mountains; these camped where +they were, and the party went on to the flats, having exacted a promise +from the Indians that they would wait there two nights for the white men +to come along. When the party reached their old camp, they found that +one of their hunters had killed a deer, which was a welcome addition +to their otherwise scanty supper. Next day, the hunters met with +astonishing luck, bringing into camp eight deer and three bears. Four of +the men were directed to go to the camp of the two Indians, and if these +were bent on going on, to accompany them and so mark, or blaze, the +trees that the rest of the party would have no difficulty in finding the +way, later on. + +Meanwhile, the men who had been sent back for guides returned, bringing +with them the pleasing information that three Indians whom they brought +with them had consented to guide the party to the great falls of the +Missouri, for the pay of two guns. Accordingly, once more (June 26), +they set out for the mountains, travelling for the third time in twelve +days the route between Quamash flats and the Bitter Root range. For the +second time they ran up against a barrier of snow. They measured the +depth of the snow at the place where they had left their luggage at +their previous repulse and found it to be ten feet and ten inches deep; +and it had sunk four feet since they had been turned back at this point. +Pressing on, after they reached their old camp, they found a bare spot +on the side of the mountain where there was a little grass for their +horses; and there they camped for the night. They were fortunate in +having Indian guides with them; and the journal says:-- + +“The marks on the trees, which had been our chief dependence, are much +fewer and more difficult to be distinguished than we had supposed. But +our guides traverse this trackless region with a kind of instinctive +sagacity; they never hesitate, they are never embarrassed; and so +undeviating is their step, that wherever the snow has disappeared, for +even a hundred paces, we find the summer road. With their aid the snow +is scarcely a disadvantage; for though we are often obliged to slip +down, yet the fallen timber and the rocks, which are now covered, were +much more troublesome when we passed in the autumn. Travelling is indeed +comparatively pleasant, as well as more rapid, the snow being hard and +coarse, without a crust, and perfectly hard enough to prevent the horses +sinking more than two or three inches. After the sun has been on it for +some hours it becomes softer than it is early in the morning; yet they +are almost always able to get a sure foothold.” + +On the twenty-ninth of June the party were well out of the snows in +which they had been imprisoned, although they were by no means over the +mountain barrier that had been climbed so painfully during the past few +days. Here they observed the tracks of two barefooted Indians who had +evidently been fleeing from their enemies, the Pahkees. These signs +disturbed the Indian guides, for they at once said that the tracks were +made by their friends, the Ootlashoots, and that the Pahkees would +also cut them (the guides) off on their return from the trip over the +mountains. On the evening of the day above mentioned, the party camped +at the warm springs which fall into Traveller’s-rest Creek, a point +now well known to the explorers, who had passed that way before. Of the +springs the journal says:-- + +“These warm springs are situated at the foot of a hill on the north side +of Traveller’s-rest Creek, which is ten yards wide at this place. They +issue from the bottoms, and through the interstices of a gray freestone +rock, which rises in irregular masses round their lower side. The +principal spring, which the Indians have formed into a bath by stopping +the run with stone and pebbles, is about the same temperature as the +warmest bath used at the hot springs in Virginia. On trying, Captain +Lewis could with difficulty remain in it nineteen minutes, and then was +affected with a profuse perspiration. The two other springs are much +hotter, the temperature being equal to that of the warmest of the hot +springs in Virginia. Our men, as well as the Indians, amused themselves +with going into the bath; the latter, according to their universal +custom, going first into the hot bath, where they remain as long as they +can bear the heat, then plunging into the creek, which is now of an icy +coldness, and repeating this operation several times, but always ending +with the warm bath.” + +Traveller’s-rest Creek, it will be recollected, is on the summit of the +Bitter Root Mountains, and the expedition had consequently passed from +Idaho into Montana, as these States now exist on the map; but they were +still on the Pacific side of the Great Divide, or the backbone of +the continent. Much game was seen in this region, and after reaching +Traveller’s-rest Creek, the hunters killed six deer; great numbers of +elk and bighorn were also seen in this vicinity. On the thirtieth of +July the party were at their old camp of September 9 and 10, 1805, +having made one hundred and fifty-six miles from Quamash flats to the +mouth of the creek where they now camped. Here a plan to divide and +subdivide the party was made out as follows:-- + +“Captain Lewis, with nine men, is to pursue the most direct route to the +falls of the Missouri, where three of his party (Thompson, Goodrich, and +McNeal) are to be left to prepare carriages for transporting the baggage +and canoes across the portage. With the remaining six, he will ascend +Maria’s River to explore the country and ascertain whether any branch +of it reaches as far north as latitude 50'0, after which he will descend +that river to its mouth. The rest of the men will accompany Captain +Clark to the head of Jefferson River, which Sergeant Ordway and a party +of nine men will descend, with the canoes and other articles deposited +there. Captain Clark’s party, which will then be reduced to ten men and +Sacajawea, will proceed to the Yellowstone, at its nearest approach to +the Three Forks of the Missouri. There he will build canoes, go down +that river with seven of his party, and wait at its mouth till the rest +of the party join him. Sergeant Pryor, with two others, will then take +the horses by land to the Mandans. From that nation he will go to the +British posts on the Assiniboin with a letter to Mr. Alexander Henry, +to procure his endeavors to prevail on some of the Sioux chiefs to +accompany him to the city of Washington. . . . + +“The Indians who had accompanied us intended leaving us in order to seek +their friends, the Ootlashoots; but we prevailed on them to accompany +Captain Lewis a part of his route, so as to show him the shortest road +to the Missouri, and in the mean time amused them with conversation and +running races, on foot and with horses, in both of which they proved +themselves hardy, athletic, and active. To the chief Captain Lewis gave +a small medal and a gun, as a reward for having guided us across the +mountains; in return the customary civility of exchanging names passed +between them, by which the former acquired the title of Yomekollick, of +White Bearskin Unfolded.” + + + + +Chapter XXIV -- The Expedition Subdivided + +On the third of July, accordingly, Captain Lewis, with nine of his men +and five Indians, proceeded down the valley lying between the Rocky +and the Bitter Root ranges of mountains, his general course being due +northwest of Clark’s fork of the Columbia River. Crossing several small +streams that make into this river, they finally reached and crossed the +Missoula River from west to east, below the confluence of the St. Mary’s +and Hell-gate rivers, or creeks; for these streams hardly deserve the +name of rivers. The party camped for the night within a few miles of the +site of the present city of Missoula, Montana. Here they were forced to +part from their good friends and allies, the Indians, who had crossed +the range with them. These men were afraid that they would be cut off by +their foes, the Pahkees, and they wanted to find and join some band +of the Indian nation with whom they were on terms of friendship. The +journal gives this account of the parting:-- + +“We now smoked a farewell pipe with our estimable companions, who +expressed every emotion of regret at parting with us; which they felt +the more, because they did not conceal their fears of our being cut off +by the Pahkees. We also gave them a shirt, a handkerchief, and a small +quantity of ammunition. The meat which they received from us was dried +and left at this place, as a store during the homeward journey. This +circumstance confirms our belief that there is no route along Clark’s +River to the Columbian plains so near or so good as that by which we +came; for, though these people mean to go for several days’ journey +down that river, to look for the Shalees (Ootlashoots), yet they intend +returning home by the same pass of the mountains through which they have +conducted us. This route is also used by all the nations whom we know +west of the mountains who are in the habit of visiting the plains of +the Missouri; while on the other side, all the war-paths of the +Pahkees which fall into this valley of Clark’s River concentre at +Traveller’s-rest, beyond which these people have never ventured to the +west.” + +During the next day or two, Captain Lewis kept on the same general +course through a well-watered country, the ground gradually rising as he +approached the base of the mountains. Tracks of Indians, supposed to +be Pahkees, became more numerous and fresh. On the seventh of July, the +little company went through the famous pass of the Rocky Mountains, now +properly named for the leaders of the expedition. Here is the journal’s +account of their finding the Lewis and Clark Pass:-- + +“At the distance of twelve miles we left the river, or rather the +creek, and having for four miles crossed two ridges in a direction north +fifteen degrees east, again struck to the right, proceeding through +a narrow bottom covered with low willows and grass, and abundantly +supplied with both deer and beaver. After travelling seven miles we +reached the foot of a ridge, which we ascended in a direction north +forty-five degrees east, through a low gap of easy ascent from the +westward; and, on descending it, were delighted at discovering that this +was the dividing ridge between the waters of the Columbia and those of +the Missouri. From this gap Fort Mountain is about twenty miles in a +northeastern direction. We now wound through the hills and mountains, +passing several rivulets which ran to the right, and at the distance +of nine miles from the gap encamped, having made thirty-two miles. We +procured some beaver, and this morning saw tracks of buffalo, from which +it appears that those animals do sometimes penetrate a short distance +among the mountains.” + +Next day the party found themselves in clover, so to speak. Game was +plenty, and, as their object now was to accumulate meat for the three +men who were to be left at the falls (and who were not hunters), they +resolved to strike the Medicine, or Sun, River and hunt down its banks. +On that river the journal, July 10, has this to say:-- + +“In the plains are great quantities of two species of prickly-pear now +in bloom. Gooseberries of the common red kind are in abundance and just +beginning to ripen, but there are no currants. The river has now widened +to one hundred yards; it is deep, crowded with islands, and in many +parts rapid. At the distance of seventeen miles, the timber disappears +totally from the river-bottoms. About this part of the river, the wind, +which had blown on our backs, and constantly put the elk on their guard, +shifted round; we then shot three of them and a brown bear. Captain +Lewis halted to skin them, while two of the men took the pack-horses +forward to seek for a camp. It was nine o’clock before he overtook them, +at the distance of seven miles, in the first grove of cottonwood. They +had been pursued as they came along by a very large bear, on which they +were afraid to fire, lest their horses, being unaccustomed to the gun, +might take fright and throw them. This circumstance reminds us of +the ferocity of these animals, when we were last near this place, and +admonishes us to be very cautious. We saw vast numbers of buffalo below +us, which kept up a dreadful bellowing during the night. With all our +exertions we were unable to advance more than twenty-four miles, owing +to the mire through which we are obliged to travel, in consequence of +the rain.” + +The Sun, or Medicine, River empties into the Missouri just above the +great falls of that stream; and near here, opposite White Bear Islands, +the expedition had deposited some of their property in a cache dug +near the river bank, when they passed that way, a year before. On the +thirteenth of the month, having reached their old camping-ground here, +the party set to work making boat-gear and preparing to leave their +comrades in camp well fixed for their stay. The journal adds:-- + +“On opening the cache, we found the bearskins entirely destroyed by the +water, which in a flood of the river had penetrated to them. All the +specimens of plants, too, were unfortunately lost: the chart of the +Missouri, however, still remained unhurt, and several articles contained +in trunks and boxes had suffered but little injury; but a vial of +laudanum had lost its stopper, and the liquid had run into a drawer +of medicines, which it spoiled beyond recovery. The mosquitoes were +so troublesome that it was impossible even to write without a mosquito +bier. The buffalo were leaving us fast, on their way to the southeast.” + +One of the party met with an amusing adventure here, which is thus +described:-- + +“At night M’Neal, who had been sent in the morning to examine the cache +at the lower end of the portage, returned; but had been prevented from +reaching that place by a singular adventure. Just as he arrived near +Willow run, he approached a thicket of brush in which was a white bear, +which he did not discover till he was within ten feet of him. His horse +started, and wheeling suddenly round, threw M’Neal almost immediately +under the bear, which started up instantly. Finding the bear raising +himself on his hind feet to attack him, he struck him on the head with +the butt end of his musket; the blow was so violent that it broke the +breech of the musket and knocked the bear to the ground. Before he +recovered M’Neal, seeing a willow-tree close by, sprang up, and there +remained while the bear closely guarded the foot of the tree until late +in the afternoon. He then went off; M’Neal being released came down, +and having found his horse, which had strayed off to the distance of +two miles, returned to camp. These animals are, indeed, of a most +extraordinary ferocity, and it is matter of wonder that in all our +encounters we have had the good fortune to escape. We are now +troubled with another enemy, not quite so dangerous, though even more +disagreeable-these are the mosquitoes, who now infest us in such myriads +that we frequently get them into our throats when breathing, and the dog +even howls with the torture they occasion.” + +The intention of Captain Lewis was to reach the river sometimes known as +Maria’s, and sometimes as Marais, or swamp. This stream rises near the +boundary between Montana and the British possessions, and flows into the +Missouri, where the modern town of Ophir is built. The men left at the +great falls were to dig up the canoes and baggage that had been cached +there the previous year, and be ready to carry around the portage of +the falls the stuff that would be brought from the two forks of the +Jefferson, later on, by Sergeant Ordway and his party. It will be +recollected that this stuff had also been cached at the forks of the +Jefferson, the year before. The two parties, thus united, were to go +down to the entrance of Maria’s River into the Missouri, and Captain +Lewis expected to join them there by the fifth of August; if he failed +to meet them by that time, they were to go on down the river and meet +Captain Clark at the mouth of the Yellowstone. This explanation is +needed to the proper understanding of the narrative that follows; for we +now have to keep track of three parties of the explorers. + +Captain Lewis and his men, having travelled northwest about twenty miles +from the great falls of the Missouri, struck the trail of a wounded +buffalo. They were dismayed by the sight, for that assured them that +there were Indians in the vicinity; and the most natural thing to expect +was that these were Blackfeet, or Minnetarees; both of these tribes are +vicious and rascally people, and they would not hesitate to attack a +small party and rob them of their guns, if they thought themselves able +to get away with them. + +They were now in the midst of vast herds of buffalo, so numerous that +the whole number seemed one immense herd. Hanging on the flanks were +many wolves; hares and antelope were also abundant. On the fourth day +out, Captain Lewis struck the north fork of Maria’s River, now known as +Cut-bank River, in the northwest corner of Montana. He was desirous +of following up the stream, to ascertain, if possible, whether its +fountain-head was below, or above, the boundary between the United +States and the British possessions. Bad weather and an accident to +his chronometer prevented his accomplishing his purpose, and, on the +twenty-sixth of July, he turned reluctantly back, giving the name of +Cape Disappointment to his last camping-place. Later in that day, +as they were travelling down the main stream (Maria’s River), they +encountered the Indians whom they had hoped to avoid. Let us read the +story as it is told in the journal of the party:-- + +“At the distance of three miles we ascended the hills close to the +river-side, while Drewyer pursued the valley of the river on the +opposite side. But scarcely had Captain Lewis reached the high plain +when he saw, about a mile on his left, a collection of about thirty +horses. He immediately halted, and by the aid of his spy-glass +discovered that one-half of the horses were saddled, and that on the +eminence above the horses several Indians were looking down toward +the river, probably at Drewyer. This was a most unwelcome sight. Their +probable numbers rendered any contest with them of doubtful issue; to +attempt to escape would only invite pursuit, and our horses were so bad +that we must certainly be overtaken; besides which, Drewyer could not +yet be aware that the Indians were near, and if we ran he would most +probably be sacrificed. We therefore determined to make the most of our +situation, and advance toward them in a friendly manner. The flag which +we had brought in case of any such accident was therefore displayed, and +we continued slowly our march toward them. Their whole attention was so +engaged by Drewyer that they did not immediately discover us. As soon +as they did see us, they appeared to be much alarmed and ran about in +confusion; some of them came down the hill and drove their horses within +gunshot of the eminence, to which they then returned, as if to await +our arrival. When we came within a quarter of a mile, one of the Indians +mounted and rode at full speed to receive us; but when within a hundred +paces of us, he halted. Captain Lewis, who had alighted to receive him, +held out his hand and beckoned to him to approach; he only looked at +us for some time, and then, without saying a word, returned to his +companions with as much haste as he had advanced. The whole party now +descended the hill and rode toward us. As yet we saw only eight, but +presumed that there must be more behind us, as there were several horses +saddled. We however advanced, and Captain Lewis now told his two men +that he believed these were the Minnetarees of Fort de Prairie, who, +from their infamous character, would in all probability attempt to +rob us; but being determined to die rather than lose his papers and +instruments, he intended to resist to the last extremity, and advised +them to do the same, and to be on the alert should there be any +disposition to attack us. When the two parties came within a hundred +yards of each other, all the Indians, except one, halted. Captain Lewis +therefore ordered his two men to halt while he advanced, and after +shaking hands with the Indian, went on and did the same with the others +in the rear, while the Indian himself shook hands with the two men. They +all now came up; and after alighting, the Indians asked to smoke with +us. Captain Lewis, who was very anxious for Drewyer’s safety, told them +that the man who had gone down the river had the pipe, and requested +that as they had seen him, one of them would accompany R. Fields, to +bring him back. To this they assented, and Fields went with a young man +in search of Drewyer.” + +Captain Lewis now asked them by signs if they were Minnetarees of the +north, and he was sorry to be told in reply that they were; he knew +them to be a bad lot. When asked if they had any chief among them, they +pointed out three. The captain did not believe them, but, in order to +keep on good terms with them, he gave to one a flag, to another a medal, +and to the third a handkerchief. At Captain Lewis’ suggestion, the +Indians and the white men camped together, and in the course of the +evening the red men told the captain that they were part of a big +band of their tribe, or nation. The rest of the tribe, they said, were +hunting further up the river, and were then in camp near the foot of the +Rocky Mountains. The captain, in return, told them that his party had +come from the great lake where the sun sets, and that he was in hopes +that he could induce the Minnetarees to live in peace with their +neighbors and come and trade at the posts that would be established in +their country by and by. He offered them ten horses and some tobacco if +they would accompany his party down the river below the great falls. To +this they made no reply. Being still suspicious of these sullen guests, +Captain Lewis made his dispositions for the night, with orders for the +sentry on duty to rouse all hands if the Indians should attempt to steal +anything in the night. Next morning trouble began. Says the journal:-- + +“At sunrise, the Indians got up and crowded around the fire near which +J. Fields, who was then on watch, had carelessly left his rifle, near +the head of his brother, who was still asleep. One of the Indians +slipped behind him, and, unperceived, took his brother’s and his own +rifle, while at the same time two others seized those of Drewyer and +Captain Lewis. As soon as Fields turned, he saw the Indian running off +with the rifles; instantly calling his brother, they pursued him for +fifty or sixty yards; just as they overtook him, in the scuffle for +the rifles R. Fields stabbed him through the heart with his knife. The +Indian ran about fifteen steps and fell dead. They now ran back with +their rifles to the camp. The moment the fellow touched his gun, +Drewyer, who was awake, jumped up and wrested it from him. The noise +awoke Captain Lewis, who instantly started from the ground and reached +for his gun; but finding it gone, drew a pistol from his belt, and +turning saw the Indian running off with it. He followed him and ordered +him to lay it down, which he did just as the two Fields came up, and +were taking aim to shoot him; when Captain Lewis ordered them not to +fire, as the Indian did not appear to intend any mischief. He dropped +the gun and was going slowly off when Drewyer came out and asked +permission to kill him; but this Captain Lewis forbade, as he had +not yet attempted to shoot us. But finding that the Indians were now +endeavoring to drive off all the horses, he ordered all three of us to +follow the main party, who were chasing the horses up the river, and +fire instantly upon the thieves; while he, without taking time to +run for his shot-pouch, pursued the fellow who had stolen his gun and +another Indian, who were driving away the horses on the left of the +camp. He pressed them so closely that they left twelve of their horses, +but continued to drive off one of our own. + +“At the distance of three hundred paces they entered a steep niche in +the river-bluffs, when Captain Lewis, being too much out of breath +to pursue them any further, called out, as he had done several times +before, that unless they gave up the horse he would shoot them. As he +raised his gun one of the Indians jumped behind a rock and spoke to the +other, who stopped at the distance of thirty paces. Captain Lewis shot +him in the belly. He fell on his knees and right elbow; but, raising +himself a little, fired, and then crawled behind a rock. The shot had +nearly proved fatal; for Captain Lewis, who was bareheaded, felt the +wind of the ball very distinctly. Not having his shot-pouch, he could +not reload his rifle; and, having only a single charge also for his +pistol, he thought it most prudent not to attack them farther, and +retired slowly to the camp. He was met by Drewyer, who, hearing the +report of the guns, had come to his assistance, leaving the Fields to +follow the other Indians. Captain Lewis ordered him to call out to them +to desist from the pursuit, as we could take the horses of the Indians +in place of our own; but they were at too great a distance to hear him. +He therefore returned to the camp, and while he was saddling the horses +the Fields returned with four of our own, having followed the Indians +until two of them swam the river and two others ascended the hills, so +that the horses became dispersed.” + +The white men were gainers by this sad affair, for they had now in their +possession four of the Indians’ horses, and had lost one of their own. +Besides these, they found in the camp of the Indians four shields, two +bows and their quivers, and one of their two guns. The captain took +some buffalo meat which he found in the camp, and then the rest of their +baggage was burned on the spot. The flag given to one of the so-called +chiefs was retaken; but the medal given to the dead man was left +around his neck. The consequences of this unfortunate quarrel were +far-reaching. The tribe whose member was killed by the white men never +forgave the injury, and for years after there was no safety for white +men in their vicinity except when the wayfarers were in great numbers or +strongly guarded. + +A forced march was now necessary for the explorers, and they set out as +speedily as possible, well knowing that the Indians would be on their +trail. By three o’clock in the afternoon of that day they had reached +Tansy River, now known as the Teton, having travelled sixty-three miles. +They rested for an hour and a half to refresh their horses, and then +pushed on for seventeen miles further before camping again. Having +killed a buffalo, they had supper and stopped two hours. Then, +travelling through vast herds of buffalo until two o’clock in the +morning, they halted again, almost dead with fatigue; they rested until +daylight. On awaking, they found themselves so stiff and sore with much +riding that they could scarcely stand. But the lives of their friends +now at or near the mouth of Maria’s River were at stake, as well as +their own. Indeed, it was not certain but that the Indians had, by hard +riding and a circuitous route, already attacked the river party left at +the falls. So Captain Lewis told his men that they must go on, and, +if attacked, they must tie their horses together by the head and stand +together, selling their lives as dearly as possible, or routing their +enemies. The journal now says:-- + +“To this they all assented, and we therefore continued our route to +the eastward, till at the distance of twelve miles we came near the +Missouri, when we heard a noise which seemed like the report of a gun. +We therefore quickened our pace for eight miles farther, and, being +about five miles from Grog Spring, now heard distinctly the noise of +several rifles from the river. We hurried to the bank, and saw with +exquisite satisfaction our friends descending the river. They landed +to greet us, and after turning our horses loose, we embarked with our +baggage, and went down to the spot where we had made a deposite. This, +after reconnoitring the adjacent country, we opened; but, unfortunately, +the cache had caved in, and most of the articles were injured. We took +whatever was still worth preserving, and immediately proceeded to the +point, where we found our deposits in good order. By a singular good +fortune, we were here joined by Sergeant Gass and Willard from the +Falls, who had been ordered to come with the horses here to assist in +procuring meat for the voyage, as it had been calculated that the canoes +would reach this place much sooner than Captain Lewis’s party. After a +very heavy shower of rain and hail, attended with violent thunder and +lightning, we started from the point, and giving a final discharge to +our horses, went over to the island where we had left our red pirogue, +which, however, we found much decayed, and we had no means of repairing +her. We therefore took all the iron work out of her, and, proceeding +down the river fifteen miles, encamped near some cottonwood trees, one +of which was of the narrow-leafed species, and the first of that kind we +had remarked in ascending the river. + +“Sergeant Ordway’s party, which had left the mouth of Madison River on +the thirteenth, had descended in safety to White Bear Island, where he +arrived on the nineteenth, and, after collecting the baggage, had left +the falls on the twenty-seventh in the white pirogue and five canoes, +while Sergeant Gass and Willard set out at the same time by land with +the horses, and thus fortunately met together.” + +Sergeant Ordway’s party, it will be recollected, had left Captain Clark +at the three forks of the Missouri, to which they had come down the +Jefferson, and thence had passed down the Missouri to White Bear +Islands, and, making the portage, had joined the rest of the party just +in time to reinforce them. Game was now abundant the buffalo being in +enormous herds; and the bighorn were also numerous; the flesh of these +animals was in fine condition, resembling the best of mutton in flavor. +The reunited party now descended the river, the intention being to reach +the mouth of the Yellowstone as soon as possible, and there wait for +Captain Clark, who, it will be recalled, was to explore that stream and +meet them at the point of its junction with the Missouri. The voyage of +Captain Lewis and his men was without startling incident, except that +Cruzatte accidentally shot the captain, one day, while they were out +hunting. The wound was through the fleshy part of the left thigh, and +for a time was very painful. As Cruzatte was not in sight when the +captain was hit, the latter naturally thought he had been shot by +Indians hiding in the thicket. He reached camp as best he could, and, +telling his men to arm themselves, he explained that he had been shot by +Indians. But when Cruzatte came into camp, mutual explanations satisfied +all hands that a misunderstanding had arisen and that Cruzatte’s unlucky +shot was accidental. As an example of the experience of the party about +this time, while they were on their way down the Missouri, we take this +extract from their journal:-- + +“We again saw great numbers of buffalo, elk, antelope, deer, and wolves; +also eagles and other birds, among which were geese and a solitary +pelican, neither of which can fly at present, as they are now shedding +the feathers of their wings. We also saw several bears, one of them the +largest, except one, we had ever seen; for he measured nine feet from +the nose to the extremity of the tail. During the night a violent +storm came on from the northeast with such torrents of rain that we had +scarcely time to unload the canoes before they filled with water. Having +no shelter we ourselves were completely wet to the skin, and the wind +and cold air made our situation very unpleasant.” + +On the twelfth of August, the Lewis party met with two traders from +Illinois. These men were camped on the northeast side of the river; +they had left Illinois the previous summer, and had been coming up the +Missouri hunting and trapping. Captain Lewis learned from them that +Captain Clark was below; and later in that day the entire expedition was +again united, Captain Clark’s party being found at a point near where +Little Knife Creek enters the Missouri River. We must now take up the +narrative of Captain Clark and his adventures on the Yellowstone. + + + + +Chapter XXV -- Adventures on the Yellowstone + +The route of Captain Clark from the point where he and Captain Lewis +divided their party, was rather more difficult than that pursued by +the Lewis detachment. But the Clark party was larger, being composed of +twenty men and Sacajawea and her baby. They were to travel up the main +fork of Clark’s River (sometimes called the Bitter Root), to Ross’s +Hole, and then strike over the great continental divide at that point by +way of the pass which he discovered and which was named for him; thence +he was to strike the headwaters of Wisdom River, a stream which this +generation of men knows by the vulgar name of Big Hole River; from this +point he was to go by the way of Willard’s Creek to Shoshonee Cove and +the Two Forks of the Jefferson, and thence down that stream to the +Three Forks of the Missouri, up the Gallatin, and over the divide to the +Yellowstone and down that river to its junction with the Missouri, where +he was to join the party of Captain Lewis. This is the itinerary that +was exactly carried out. The very first incident set forth in the +journal is a celebration of Independence Day, as follows:-- + +“Friday, July 4. Early in the morning three hunters were sent out. +The rest of the party having collected the horses and breakfasted, we +proceeded at seven o’clock up the valley, which is now contracted to the +width of from eight to ten miles, with a good proportion of pitch-pine, +though its low lands, as well as the bottoms of the creeks, are strewn +with large stones. We crossed five creeks of different sizes, but of +great depth, and so rapid that in passing the last several of the horses +were driven down the stream, and some of our baggage was wet. Near +this river we saw the tracks of two Indians, whom we supposed to be +Shoshonees. Having made sixteen miles, we halted at an hour for +the purpose of doing honor to the birthday of our early country’s +independence. The festival was not very splendid, for it consisted of a +mush made of cows and a saddle of venison; nor had we anything to tempt +us to prolong it. We therefore went on till at the distance of a mile we +came to a very large creek, which, like all those in the valley, had +an immense rapidity of descent; we therefore proceeded up for some +distance, in order to select the most convenient spot for fording. Even +there, however, such was the violence of the current that, though the +water was not higher than the bellies of the horses, the resistance made +in passing caused the stream to rise over their backs and loads. After +passing the creek we inclined to the left, and soon after struck the +road which we had descended last year, near the spot where we dined on +the 7th of September (1805). Along this road we continued on the west +side of Clark’s River, till at the distance of thirteen miles, during +which we passed three more deep, large creeks, we reached its western +branch, where we camped; and having sent out two hunters, despatched +some men to examine the best ford across the west fork of the river. The +game to-day consisted of four deer; though we also saw a herd of ibex, +or bighorn.” + +Two days later they were high up among the mountains, although the +ascent was not very steep. At that height they found the weather very +cool, so much so that on the morning of the sixth of July, after a cold +night, they had a heavy white frost on the ground. Setting out on that +day, Captain Clark crossed a ridge which proved to be the dividing line +between the Pacific and the Atlantic watershed. At the same time he +passed from what is now Missoula County, Montana, into the present +county of Beaver Head, in that State. “Beaver Head,” the reader will +recollect, comes from a natural elevation in that region resembling the +head of a beaver. These points will serve to fix in one’s mind the +route of the first exploring party that ever ventured into those wilds; +descending the ridge on its eastern slope, the explorers struck Glade +Creek, one of the sources of the stream then named Wisdom River, a +branch of the Jefferson; and the Jefferson is one of the tributaries of +the mighty Missouri. Next day the journal has this entry:-- + +“In the morning our horses were so much scattered that, although we sent +out hunters in every direction to range the country for six or eight +miles, nine of them could not be recovered. They were the most valuable +of all our horses, and so much attached to some of their companions that +it was difficult to separate them in the daytime. We therefore presumed +that they must have been stolen by some roving Indians; and accordingly +left a party of five men to continue the pursuit, while the rest went +on to the spot where the canoes had been deposited. We set out at ten +o’clock and pursued a course S. 56'0 E. across the valley, which we +found to be watered by four large creeks, with extensive low and +miry bottoms; and then reached (and crossed) Wisdom River, along the +northeast side of which we continued, till at the distance of sixteen +miles we came to its three branches. Near that place we stopped for +dinner at a hot spring situated in the open plain. The bed of the spring +is about fifteen yards in circumference, and composed of loose, hard, +gritty stones, through which the water boils in great quantities. It is +slightly impregnated with sulphur, and so hot that a piece of meat about +the size of three fingers was completely done in twenty-five minutes.” + +Next day, July 8, the party reached the forks of the Jefferson River, +where they had cached their goods in August, 1805; they had now +travelled one hundred and sixty-four miles from Traveller’s-rest Creek +to that point. The men were out of tobacco, and as there was some among +the goods deposited in the cache they made haste to open the cache. They +found everything safe, although some of the articles were damp, and a +hole had been made in the bottom of one of the canoes. Here they were +overtaken by Sergeant Ordway and his party with the nine horses that had +escaped during the night of the seventh. + +That night the weather was so cold that water froze in a basin to a +thickness of three-quarters of an inch, and the grass around the camp +was stiff with frost, although the month of July was nearly a week old. +The boats taken from the cache were now loaded, and the explorers were +divided into two bands, one to descend the river by boat and the other +to take the same general route on horseback, the objective point being +the Yellowstone. The story is taken tip here by the journal in these +lines:-- + +“After breakfast (July 10) the two parties set out, those on shore +skirting the eastern side of Jefferson River, through Service (-berry) +Valley and over Rattlesnake Mountain, into a beautiful and extensive +country, known among the Indians by the name of Hahnahappapchah, or +Beaverhead Valley, from the number of those animals to be found in it, +and also from the point of land resembling the head of a beaver. It (the +valley) extends from Rattlesnake Mountain as low as Frazier’s Creek, and +is about fifty miles in length in direct line; while its width varies +from ten to fifteen miles, being watered in its whole course by +Jefferson River and six different creeks. The valley is open and +fertile; besides the innumerable quantities of beaver and otter with +which its creeks are supplied, the bushes of the low grounds are a +favorite resort for deer; while on the higher parts of the valley are +seen scattered groups of antelopes, and still further, on the steep +sides of the mountains, are observed many bighorns, which take refuge +there from the wolves and bears. At the distance of fifteen miles the +two parties stopped to dine; when Captain Clark, finding that the river +became wider and deeper, and that the canoes could advance more rapidly +than the horses, determined to go himself by water, leaving Sergeant +Pryor with six men to bring on the horses. In this way they resumed +their journey after dinner, and camped on the eastern side of the river, +opposite the head of Three-thousand-mile Island. The beaver were basking +in great numbers along the shore; there were also some young wild geese +and ducks. The mosquitoes were very troublesome during the day, but +after sunset the weather became cool and they disappeared.” + +Three-thousand-mile Island was so named by the explorers, when they +ascended these streams, because it was at a point exactly three thousand +miles from the mouth of the Missouri. But no such island exists now; it +has probably been worn away by the swift-rushing current of the river. +The route of Captain Clark and his party, up to this time had been a few +miles west of Bannock City, Montana. As the captain was now to proceed +by land to the Yellowstone, again leaving the canoe party, it is well to +recall the fact that his route from the Three Forks of the Missouri to +the Yellowstone follows pretty nearly the present line of the railroad +from Gallatin City to Livingston, by the way of Bozeman Pass. Of this +route the journal says:-- + +“Throughout the whole, game was very abundant. They procured deer in +the low grounds; beaver and otter were seen in Gallatin River, and elk, +wolves, eagles, hawks, crows, and geese at different parts of the route. +The plain was intersected by several great roads leading to a gap in the +mountains, about twenty miles distant, in a direction E.N.E.; but the +Indian woman, who was acquainted with the country, recommended a gap +more to the southward. This course Captain Clark determined to pursue.” + +Let us pause here to pay a little tribute to the memory of “the Indian +woman,” Sacajawea. She showed that she was very observant, had a good +memory, and was plucky and determined when in trouble. She was the guide +of the exploring party when she was in a region of country, as here, +with which she was familiar. She remembered localities which she had +not seen since her childhood. When their pirogue was upset by the +carelessness of her husband, it was she who saved the goods and helped +to right the boat. And, with her helpless infant clinging to her, she +rode with the men, guiding them with unerring skill through the mountain +fastnesses and lonely passes which the white men saw for the first time +when their salient features were pointed out to them by the intelligent +and faithful Sacajawea. The Indian woman has long since departed to the +Happy Hunting-Grounds of her fathers; only her name and story remain +to us who follow the footsteps of the brave pioneers of the western +continent. But posterity should not forget the services which were +rendered to the white race by Sacajawea. + +On the fifteenth of July the party arrived at the ridge that divides +the Missouri and the Yellowstone, nine miles from which they reached +the river itself, about a mile and a half from the point where it +issues from the Rocky Mountains. Their journey down the valley of the +Yellowstone was devoid of special interest, but was accompanied with +some hardships. For example, the feet of the horses had become so sore +with long travel over a stony trail that it was necessary to shoe them +with raw buffalo hide. Rain fell frequently and copiously; and often, +sheltered at night only by buffalo hides, they rose in the morning +drenched to the skin. The party could not follow the course of the river +very closely, but were compelled often to cross hills that came down to +the bank, making the trail impassable for horses. Here is the story of +July 18 and 19:-- + +“Gibson, one of the party, was so badly hurt by falling on a sharp point +of wood that he was unable to sit on his horse, and they were obliged +to form a sort of litter for him, so that he could lie nearly at full +length. The wound became so painful, however, after proceeding a short +distance, that he could not bear the motion, and they left him with two +men, while Captain Clark went to search for timber large enough to form +canoes. He succeeded in finding some trees of sufficient size for small +canoes, two of which he determined to construct, and by lashing them +together hoped to make them answer the purpose of conveying the party +down the river, while a few of his men should conduct the horses to the +Mandans. All hands, therefore, were set busily to work, and they were +employed in this labor for several days. In the mean time no less than +twenty-four of their horses were missing, and they strongly suspected +had been stolen by the Indians, for they were unable to find them, +notwithstanding they made the most diligent search.” + +“July 23. A piece of a robe and a moccasin,” says the journal, “were +discovered this morning not far from the camp. The moccasin was worn out +in the sole, and yet wet, and had every appearance of having been left +but a few hours before. This was conclusive that the Indians had taken +our horses, and were still prowling about for the remainder, which +fortunately escaped last night by being in a small prairie surrounded by +thick timber. At length Labiche, one of our best trackers, returned from +a very wide circuit, and informed Captain Clark that he had traced +the horses bending their course rather down the river towards the open +plains, and from their tracks, must have been going very rapidly. All +hopes of recovering them were now abandoned. Nor were the Indians the +only plunderers around our camp; for in the night the wolves or dogs +stole the greater part of the dried meat from the scaffold. The wolves, +which constantly attend the buffalo, were here in great numbers, as this +seemed to be the commencement of the buffalo country. . . . + +“At noon the two canoes were finished. They were twenty-eight feet long, +sixteen or eighteen inches deep, and from sixteen to twenty-four inches +wide; and, having lashed them together, everything was ready for setting +out the next day, Gibson having now recovered. Sergeant Pryor was +directed, with Shannon and Windsor, to take the remaining horses to the +Mandans, and if he should find that Mr. Henry (a trading-post agent) +was on the Assiniboin River, to go thither and deliver him a letter, the +object of which was to prevail on the most distinguished chiefs of the +Sioux to accompany him to Washington.” + +On a large island near the mouth of a creek now known as Canyon Creek, +the party landed to explore an extensive Indian lodge which seems to +have been built for councils, rather than for a place of residence. The +lodge was shaped like a cone, sixty feet in diameter at the base and +tapering towards the top. The poles of which it was constructed were +forty-five feet long. The interior was strangely decorated, the tops of +the poles being ornamented with eagles’ feathers, and from the centre +hung a stuffed buffalo-hide. A buffalo’s head and other trophies of +the chase were disposed about the wigwam. The valley, as the explorers +descended the river, was very picturesque and wonderful. On the north +side the cliffs were wild and romantic, and these were soon succeeded by +rugged hills, and these, in turn, by open plains on which were descried +herds of buffalo, elk, and wolves. On the twenty-seventh of July, having +reached the Bighorn, one of the largest tributaries of the Yellowstone, +the party have this entry in their journal:-- + +“They again set out very early, and on leaving the Bighorn took a last +look at the Rocky Mountains, which had been constantly in view from the +first of May. The (Yellowstone) river now widens to the extent of from +four hundred to six hundred yards; it is much divided by islands and +sandbars; its banks are generally low and falling in; it thus resembles +the Missouri in many particulars, but its islands are more numerous, +its waters less muddy, and the current is more rapid. The water is of +a yellowish-white, and the round stones, which form the bars above the +Bighorn, have given place to gravel. On the left side the river runs +under cliffs of light, soft, gritty stone, varying in height from +seventy to one hundred feet, behind which are level and extensive +plains. On the right side of the river are low extensive bottoms, +bordered with cottonwood, various species of willow, rose-bushes, +grapevines, redberry or buffalo-grease bushes, and a species of sumach; +to these succeed high grounds supplied with pine, and still further on +are level plains. Throughout the country are vast quantities of buffalo, +which, as this is the running-season, keep up a continued bellowing. +Large herds of elk also are lying on every point, so gentle that they +may be approached within twenty paces without being alarmed. Several +beaver were seen in the course of the day; indeed, there is a greater +appearance of those animals than there was above the Bighorn. Deer, +however, are by no means abundant, and antelopes, as well as bighorns, +are scarce.” + +It is noticeable that the explorers, all along their route, gave to +streams, rocks, mountains, and other natural features of the country +many names that appear to us meaningless and trifling. It would appear +that they used up all the big names, such as Jefferson, Gallatin, +Philosophy, Philanthropy, and the like, and were compelled to use, +first, the names of their own party, and then such titles as were +suggested by trifling incidents. For example, when they reached a +difficult shoal on the Yellowstone River, they named that Buffalo Shoal +because they found a buffalo on it; and Buffalo Shoal it remains unto +this day. In like manner, when they reached a dangerous rapid, twenty +miles below that point, they saw a bear standing on a rock in the +stream; and Bear Rapid the place was and is named. Bear and buffalo +were pretty numerous all the way along that part of the river which they +navigated in July. They had now rejoined the boats, and on the last day +of July, when camped at a point two miles above Wolf Rapid (so called +from seeing a wolf there), the buffalo were continually prowling about +the camp at night, exciting much alarm lest they should trample on the +boats and ruin them. In those days, buffalo were so numerous that they +were a nuisance to travellers; and they were so free from fear of man +that they were too familiar with the camps and equipage. On the first of +August we find this entry in the journal of the party:-- + +“The buffalo now appear in vast numbers. A herd happened to be on their +way across the river. Such was the multitude of these animals that, +though the river, including an island over which they passed, was a mile +wide, the herd stretched, as thickly as they could swim, from one +side to the other, and the party was obliged to stop for an hour. They +consoled themselves for the delay by killing four of the herd; and then +having proceeded for the distance of forty-five miles (in all to-day) +to an island, below which two other herds of buffalo, as numerous as the +first, soon after crossed the river.” + +Again, on the very next day, we find this entry:-- + +“The river was now about a mile wide, less rapid, and more divided by +islands, and bars of sand and mud, than heretofore; the low grounds, +too, were more extensive, and contained a greater quantity of +cottonwood, ash, and willows. On the northwest was a low, level plain, +and on the southeast some rugged hills, on which we saw, without being +able to approach them, some bighorns. Buffalo and elk, as well as their +pursuers, the wolves, were in great numbers. On each side of the +river there were several dry beds of streams, but the only one of any +considerable size was one to which they gave the name of Ibex River, +on the right, about thirty yards wide, and sixteen miles from their +encampment of the preceding night. The bear, which had given them so +much trouble at the head of the Missouri, they found equally fierce +here. One of these animals, which was on a sand-bar as the boat passed, +raised himself on his hind feet, and after looking at the party for a +moment, plunged in and swam towards them; but, after receiving three +balls in the body, he turned and made for the shore. Towards evening +they saw another enter the water to swim across; when Captain Clark +directed the boat towards the shore, and just as the animal landed shot +it in the head. It proved to be the largest female they had ever seen, +and was so old that its tusks were worn quite smooth. The boats escaped +with difficulty between two herds of buffalo that were crossing the +river, and came near being again detained by them. Among the elk of this +neighborhood they saw an unusual number of males, while higher up the +herds consisted chiefly of females.” + +It is almost incredible that these wild animals should have been so +nearly exterminated by hunters and other rovers of the plains, very soon +after travel set in across the continent. The writer of these lines, who +crossed the plains to California so lately as 1856, saw buffalo +killed for the sake of their tongues, or to give rifle practice to +the wayfarers. After the overland railroad was opened, passengers shot +buffalo from the car-windows, well knowing that they could not get their +game, even if they should kill as they flew by a herd. There are no +buffalo nor elk where millions once roamed almost unmolested. + +Early in the afternoon of August 3, the party reached the junction of +the Yellowstone and the Missouri, and camped on the same spot where they +had pitched their tents on the 26th of April, 1805. They were nearing +the end of their long journey. + +But their troubles thickened as they drew near the close of their many +miles of travel. The journal for August 4 has this record:-- + +“The camp became absolutely uninhabitable in consequence of the +multitude of mosquitoes; the men could not work in preparing skins for +clothing, nor hunt in the timbered low grounds; there was no mode of +escape, except by going on the sand-bars in the river, where, if the +wind should blow, the insects do not venture; but when there is no wind, +and particularly at night, when the men have no covering except their +worn-out blankets, the pain they suffer is scarcely to be endured. There +was also a want of meat, for no buffalo were to be found; and though elk +are very abundant, yet their fat and flesh is more difficult to dry in +the sun, and is also much more easily spoiled than the meat or fat of +either deer or buffalo. + +“Captain Clark therefore determined to go on to some spot which should +be free from mosquitoes and furnish more game. Having written a note to +Captain Lewis, to inform him of his intention, and stuck it on a pole +at the confluence of the two rivers, he loaded the canoes at five in the +afternoon, proceeded down the river to the second point, and camped on +a sand-bar; but here the mosquitoes seemed to be even more numerous +than above. The face of the Indian child was considerably puffed up +and swollen with their bites; the men could procure scarcely any sleep +during the night, and the insects continued to harass them next morning, +as they proceeded. On one occasion Captain Clark went on shore and +ascended a hill after one of the bighorns; but the mosquitoes were in +such multitudes that he could not keep them from the barrel of his rifle +long enough to take aim. About ten o’clock, however, a light breeze +sprung up from the northwest, and dispersed them in some degree. Captain +Clark then landed on a sand-bar, intending to wait for Captain Lewis, +and went out to hunt. But not finding any buffalo, he again proceeded in +the afternoon; and having killed a large white bear, camped under a high +bluff exposed to a light breeze from the southwest, which blew away the +mosquitoes. About eleven o’clock, however, the wind became very high and +a storm of rain came on, which lasted for two hours, accompanied with +sharp lightning and loud peals of thunder. + +“The party rose, next day, very wet, and proceeded to a sand-bar below +the entrance of Whiteearth River. Just above this place the Indians, +apparently within seven, or eight days past, had been digging a root +which they employ in making a kind of soup. Having fixed their tents, +the men were employed in dressing skins and hunting. They shot a number +of deer; but only two of them were fat, owing probably to the great +quantities of mosquitoes which annoy them while feeding.” + +On the eleventh of August the Clark party came up with the two white +traders from Illinois, of whom we have already made mention as having +been met by the Lewis party on their way down the river. These were the +first white men they had seen (except themselves) since they parted with +the three French trappers, near the Little Missouri, in April, 1805, +From them the wayworn voyagers received the latest news from the United +States. From them they also had some unfavorable tidings. The journal +says:-- + +“These men had met the boat which we had despatched from Fort Mandan, +on board of which, they were told, was a Ricara chief on his way to +Washington; and also another party of Yankton chiefs, accompanying Mr. +Durion on a visit of the same kind. We were sorry to learn that the +Mandans and Minnetarees were at war with the Ricaras, and had killed two +of them. The Assiniboins too are at war with the Mandans. They have, +in consequence, prohibited the Northwestern Company from trading to the +Missouri, and even killed two of their traders near Mouse River; they +are now lying in wait for Mr. McKenzie of the Northwestern Company, who +has been for a long time among the Minnetarees. These appearances are +rather unfavorable to our project of carrying some of the chiefs to the +United States; but we still hope that, by effecting a peace between the +Mandans, Minnetarees, and Ricaras, the views of our Government may be +accomplished.” + +Next day, August 12, 1806, the party, slowly descending the river, were +overjoyed to see below them the little flotilla of Captain Lewis and his +men. But they were alarmed when they discovered that Lewis was not with +them; as the boats landed at the shore, the captain was not to be seen. +Captain Clark’s party, on coming up with their friends, were told that +Lewis was lying in the pirogue, having been accidentally wounded. The +whole party were now happily reunited, and they were soon joined by the +two Illinois traders whom they had met up the river; these men wished to +accompany the expedition down the river as far as the Mandan nation, +for the purpose of trading; they were more secure with a large party of +white men than they would be if left to themselves. + + + + +Chapter XXVI -- The End of a Long Journey + +The reunited party now set out for the lower river and proceeded rapidly +down-stream, favored with a good wind. They made eighty-six miles on +the first day, passing the mouth of the Little Missouri early in the +forenoon, and camping at Miry River, on the northeast side of the +Missouri. On the second day they arrived at the principal village of the +Minnetarees, where they were received with cordial welcome by their old +friends. The explorers fired their blunderbuss several times by way of +salute, and the Indian chiefs expressed their satisfaction at the safe +return of the white men. One of the Minnetaree chiefs, however, wept +bitterly at the sight of the whites, and it was explained by his friends +that their coming reminded him of the death of his son, who had been +lately killed by the Blackfoot Indians. + +Arriving at the village of the Mandans, of which Black Cat was the +chief, a council was called, and the chiefs of the expedition endeavored +to persuade some of the leading men of the tribe to accompany them to +Washington to see “the Great Father.” Black Cat expressed his strong +desire to visit the United States and see the Great Father, but he was +afraid of the Sioux, their ancient enemies, through whose territory they +must pass on their way down to the white man’s country. This chief, it +will be recollected, was given a flag and a medal by the two captains +when they passed up the river on their way to the Rocky Mountains and +the Pacific coast. The flag was now brought on and hoisted on the lodge +of Black Cat. On that occasion, also, the commanders of the expedition +had given the Indians a number of useful articles, among them being a +portable corn-mill. But the Indians had other uses for metal, and they +had taken the mill apart and used the iron for the purpose of making +barbs for their arrows. From the Omahas, who were located here, the +white men received a present of as much corn as three men could carry. +Black Cat also gave them a dozen bushels of corn. + +Their days of starvation and famine were over. They were next visited +by Le Borgne, better known as One-eye, the head chief of all the +Minnetarees, to whom Lewis and Clark also extended an invitation to go +to Washington to see the Great Father. The journal says:-- + +“Le Borgne began by declaring that he much desired to visit his Great +Father, but that the Sioux would certainly kill any of the Mandans who +should attempt to go down the river. They were bad people, and would not +listen to any advice. When he saw us last, we had told him that we had +made peace with all the nations below; yet the Sioux had since killed +eight of his tribe, and stolen a number of their horses. The Ricaras too +had stolen their horses, and in the contest his people had killed two +of the Ricaras. Yet in spite of these dispositions he had always had +his ears open to our counsels, and had actually made a peace with +the Chayennes and the Indians of the Rocky Mountains. He concluded by +saying, that however disposed they were to visit the United States, the +fear of the Sioux would prevent them from going with us.” + +The truth was that One-eye had no notion of going to Washington; he was +afraid of nobody, and his plea of possible danger among the Sioux +was mere nonsense to deceive the white men. Captain Clark visited the +village of Black Cat, and that worthy savage made the same excuse that +Le Borgne (One-eye) had already put forth; he was afraid of the Sioux. +The journal adds:-- + +“Captain Clark then spoke to the chiefs and warriors of the village. +He told them of his anxiety that some of them should see their Great +Father, hear his good words, and receive his gifts; and requested them +to fix on some confidential chief who might accompany us. To this they +made the same objections as before; till at length a young man offered +to go, and the warriors all assented to it. But the character of +this man was known to be bad; and one of the party with Captain Clark +informed him that at the moment he (this Indian) had in his possession +a knife which he had stolen. Captain Clark therefore told the chief of +this theft, and ordered the knife to be given up. This was done with +a poor apology for having it in his possession, and Captain Clark then +reproached the chiefs for wishing to send such a fellow to see and hear +so distinguished a person as their Great Father. They all hung down +their heads for some time, till Black Cat apologized by saying that +the danger was such that they were afraid of sending any one of their +chiefs, as they considered his loss almost inevitable.” + +Although there was so much reluctance on the part of the Indians to +leave their roving life, even for a few months, there were some white +men among the explorers who were willing to give up their home in “the +States.” The journal says:-- + +“In the evening Colter applied to us for permission to join the two +trappers who had accompanied us, and who now proposed an expedition up +the river, in which they were to find traps and to give him a share of +the profits. The offer was a very advantageous one; and as he had +always performed his duty, and his services could be dispensed with, we +consented to his going upon condition that none of the rest were to ask +or expect a similar indulgence. To this they all cheerfully assented, +saying that they wished Colter every success, and would not apply for +liberty to separate before we reached St. Louis. We therefore supplied +him, as did his comrades also, with powder and lead, and a variety of +articles which might be useful to him, and he left us the next day. The +example of this man shows how easily men may be weaned from the habits +of civilized life to the ruder, though scarcely less fascinating, +manners of the woods. This hunter had now been absent for many years +from the frontiers, and might naturally be presumed to have some +anxiety, or at least curiosity, to return to his friends and his +country; yet, just at the moment when he was approaching the frontiers, +he was tempted by a hunting scheme to give up all those delightful +prospects, and to go back without the least reluctance to the solitude +of the wilds.” + +The two captains learned here that the Minnetarees had sent out a +war-party against the Shoshonees, very soon after the white men’s +expedition had left for the Rocky Mountains, notwithstanding their +promise to keep peace with the surrounding tribes. They had also sent a +war-party against the Ricaras, two of whom they killed. Accordingly, the +white chiefs had a powwow with the Indian chiefs, at which the journal +says these incidents occurred:-- + +“We took this opportunity of endeavoring to engage Le Borgne in our +interests by a present of the swivel, which is no longer serviceable, as +it cannot be discharged from our largest pirogue. It was loaded; and the +chiefs being formed into a circle round it, Captain Clark addressed them +with great ceremony. He said that he had listened with much attention +to what had yesterday been declared by Le Borgne, whom he believed to be +sincere, and then reproached them with their disregard of our counsels, +and their wars on the Shoshonees and Ricaras. Little Cherry, the +old Minnetaree chief, answered that they had long stayed at home and +listened to our advice, but at last went to war against the Sioux +because their horses had been stolen and their companions killed; and +that in an expedition against those people they met the Ricaras, who +were on their way to strike them, and a battle ensued. But in future he +said they would attend to our words and live at peace. Le Borgne added +that his ears would always be open to the words of his Good Father, and +shut against bad counsel. Captain Clark then presented to Le Borgne the +swivel, which he told him had announced the words of his Great Father +to all the nations we had seen, and which, whenever it was fired, should +recall those which we had delivered to him. The gun was discharged, and +Le Borgne had it conveyed in great pomp to his village. The council then +adjourned.” + +After much diplomacy and underhand scheming, one of the Mandan chiefs, +Big White, agreed to go to Washington with the expedition. But none of +the Minnetarees could be prevailed upon to leave their tribe, even for +a journey to the Great Father, of whose power and might so much had been +told them. The journal, narrating this fact, says further:-- + +“The principal chiefs of the Minnetarees now came down to bid us +farewell, as none of them could be prevailed on to go with us. This +circumstance induced our interpreter, Chaboneau, to remain here with his +wife and child, as he could no longer be of use to us, and, although we +offered to take him with us to the United States, he declined, saying +that there he had no acquaintance, and no chance of making a livelihood, +and preferred remaining among the Indians. This man had been very +serviceable to us, and his wife was particularly useful among the +Shoshonees: indeed, she had borne with a patience truly admirable the +fatigues of so long a route, encumbered with the charge of an infant, +who was then only nineteen months old. We therefore paid him his wages, +amounting to five hundred dollars and thirty-three cents, including +the price of a horse and a lodge purchased of him, and soon afterward +dropped down to the village of Big White, attended on shore by all the +Indian chiefs, who had come to take leave of him. + +“We found him surrounded by his friends, who sat in a circle smoking, +while the women were crying. He immediately sent his wife and son, with +their baggage, on board, accompanied by the interpreter and his wife, +and two children; and then, after distributing among his friends some +powder and ball which we had given him, and smoking a pipe, he went with +us to the river side. The whole village crowded about us, and many of +the people wept aloud at the departure of their chief.” + +Once more embarked, the party soon reached Fort Mandan, where they had +wintered in 1804. They found very little of their old stronghold left +except a few pickets and one of the houses. The rest had been destroyed +by an accidental fire. Eighteen miles below, they camped near an old +Ricara village, and next day, as they were about to resume their voyage, +a brother of Big White, whose camp was farther inland, came running down +to the beach to bid Big White farewell. The parting of the two brothers +was very affectionate, and the elder gave the younger a pair of leggings +as a farewell present. The Indian chief was satisfied with his treatment +by the whites, and interested himself to tell them traditions of +localities which they passed. August 20 they were below the mouth of +Cannon-ball River, and were in the country occupied and claimed by the +Sioux. Here, if anywhere, they must be prepared for attacks from +hostile Indians. At this point, the journal sets forth this interesting +observation:-- + +“Since we passed in 1804, a very obvious change has taken place in the +current and appearance of the Missouri. In places where at that time +there were sandbars, the current of the river now passes, and the former +channel of the river is in turn a bank of sand. Sandbars then naked are +now covered with willows several feet high; the entrance of some of +the creeks and rivers has changed in consequence of the quantity of mud +thrown into them; and in some of the bottoms are layers of mud eight +inches in depth.” + +The streams that flow into the Missouri and Mississippi from the +westward are notoriously fickle and changeable. Within a very few years, +some of them have changed their course so that farms are divided into +two parts, or are nearly wiped out by the wandering streams. In at least +one instance, artful men have tried to steal part of a State by changing +the boundary line along the bed of the river, making the stream flow +many miles across a tract around which it formerly meandered. On this +boundary line between the Sioux and their upper neighbors, the party +met a band of Cheyennes and another of Ricaras, or Arikaras. They held +a palaver with these Indians and reproached the Ricara chief, who was +called Gray-eyes, with having engaged in hostilities with the Sioux, +notwithstanding the promises made when the white men were here before. +To this Gray-eyes made an animated reply:-- + +“He declared that the Ricaras were willing to follow the counsels we had +given them, but a few of their bad young men would not live in peace, +but had joined the Sioux and thus embroiled them with the Mandans. These +young men had, however, been driven out of the villages, and as the +Ricaras were now separated from the Sioux, who were a bad people and the +cause of all their misfortunes, they now desired to be at peace with the +Mandans, and would receive them with kindness and friendship. Several of +the chiefs, he said, were desirous of visiting their Great Father; but +as the chief who went to the United States last summer had not returned, +and they had some fears for his safety, on account of the Sioux, they +did not wish to leave home until they heard of him. With regard to +himself, he would continue with his nation, to see that they followed +our advice. . . . . . . . . . + +“After smoking for some time, Captain Clark gave a small medal to the +Chayenne chief, and explained at the same time the meaning of it. He +seemed alarmed at this present, and sent for a robe and a quantity of +buffalo-meat, which he gave to Captain Clark, and requested him to take +back the medal; for he knew that all white people were ‘medicine,’ and +was afraid of the medal, or of anything else which the white people gave +to the Indians. Captain Clark then repeated his intention in giving +the medal, which was the medicine his great father had directed him +to deliver to all chiefs who listened to his word and followed his +counsels; and that as he (the chief) had done so, the medal was given +as a proof that we believed him sincere. He now appeared satisfied and +received the medal, in return for which he gave double the quantity of +buffalo-meat he had offered before. He seemed now quite reconciled to +the whites, and requested that some traders might be sent among the +Chayennes, who lived, he said, in a country full of beaver, but did +not understand well how to catch them, and were discouraged from it by +having no sale for them when caught. Captain Clark promised that they +should be soon supplied with goods and taught the best mode of catching +beaver. + +“Big White, the chief of the Mandans, now addressed them at some length, +explaining the pacific intentions of his nation; the Chayennes observed +that both the Ricaras and Mandans seemed to be in fault; but at the end +of the council the Mandan chief was treated with great civility, and +the greatest harmony prevailed among them. The great chief, however, +informed us that none of the Ricaras could be prevailed on to go with us +till the return of the other chief; and that the Chayennes were a wild +people, afraid to go. He invited Captain Clark to his house, and gave +him two carrots of tobacco, two beaver-skins, and a trencher of boiled +corn and beans. It is the custom of all the nations on the Missouri to +offer to every white man food and refreshment when he first enters their +tents.” + +Resuming their voyage, the party reached Tyler’s River, where they +camped, on the twenty-seventh of August. This stream is now known as +Medicine River, from Medicine Hill, a conspicuous landmark rising at a +little distance from the Missouri. The voyagers were now near the +lower portion of what is now known as South Dakota, and they camped in +territory embraced in the county of Presho. Here they were forced to +send out their hunters; their stock of meat was nearly exhausted. The +hunters returned empty-handed. + +“After a hunt of three hours they reported that no game was to be found +in the bottoms, the grass having been laid flat by the immense number of +buffaloes which recently passed over it; and, that they saw only a few +buffalo bulls, which they did not kill, as they were quite unfit for +use. Near this place we observed, however, the first signs of the wild +turkey; not long afterward we landed in the Big Bend, and killed a fine +fat elk, on which we feasted. Toward night we heard the bellowing of +buffalo bulls on the lower island of the Big Bend. We pursued this +agreeable sound, and after killing some of the cows, camped on the +island, forty-five miles from the camp of last night.” . . . . . . . . . + +“Setting out at ten o’clock the next morning, at a short distance they +passed the mouth of White River, the water of which was nearly of the +color of milk. As they were much occupied with hunting, they made but +twenty miles. The buffalo,” says the journal, “were now so numerous, +that from an eminence we discovered more than we had ever seen before +at one time; and though it was impossible accurately to calculate their +number, they darkened the whole plain, and could not have been, we were +convinced, less than twenty thousand. With regard to game in general, +we have observed that wild animals are usually found in the greatest +numbers in the country lying between two nations at war.” + +They were now well into the Sioux territory, and on the thirtieth of +August they had an encounter with a party of Indians. About twenty +persons were seen on the west side of the river, proceeding along a +height opposite the voyagers. Just as these were observed, another band, +numbering eighty or ninety, came out of the woods nearer the shore. As +they had a hostile appearance, the party in the canoes made preparations +to receive them; they were suspected to be Teton-Sioux, although they +might be Yanktons, Pawnees, or Omahas. The journal adds:-- + +“In order, however, to ascertain who they were, without risk to the +party, Captain Clark crossed, with three persons who could speak +different Indian languages, to a sand-bar near the opposite side, in +hopes of conversing with them. Eight young men soon met him on the +sand-bar, but none of them could understand either the Pawnee or +Maha interpreter. They were then addressed in the Sioux language, and +answered that they were Tetons, of the band headed by Black Buffaloe, +Tahtackasabah. This was the same who had attempted to stop us in 1804; +and being now less anxious about offending so mischievous a tribe, +Captain Clark told them that they had been deaf to our councils, had +ill-treated us two years ago, and had abused all the whites who had +since visited them. He believed them, he added, to be bad people, and +they must therefore return to their companions; for if they crossed over +to our camp we would put them to death. They asked for some corn, which +Captain Clark refused; they then requested permission to come and +visit our camp, but he ordered them back to their own people. He then +returned, and all our arms were prepared, in case of an attack; but when +the Indians reached their comrades, and informed their chiefs of our +intention, they all set out on their way to their own camp; though +some of them halted on a rising ground and abused us very copiously, +threatening to kill us if we came across. We took no notice of this for +some time, till the return of three of our hunters, whom we were afraid +the Indians might have met. But as soon as they joined us we embarked; +and to see what the Indians would attempt, steered near their side of +the river. At this the party on the hill seemed agitated; some set out +for their camp, others walked about, and one man walked toward the boats +and invited us to land. As he came near, we recognized him to be the +same who had accompanied us for two days in 1804, and was considered a +friend of the whites. + +“Unwilling, however, to have any intercourse with these people, we +declined his invitation, upon which he returned to the hill, and struck +the earth three times with his gun, a great oath among the Indians, +who consider swearing by the earth as one of the most solemn forms +of imprecation. At the distance of six miles we stopped on a bleak +sand-bar, where we thought ourselves secure from any attack during the +night, and also safe from the mosquitoes. We had made but twenty-two +miles, but in the course of the day had killed a mule-deer, an animal +we were very anxious to obtain. About eleven in the evening the wind +shifted to the northwest, and it began to rain, accompanied by thunder +and lightning, after which the wind changed to the southwest, and blew +with such violence that we were obliged to hold fast the canoes, for +fear of their being driven from the sand-bar: still, the cables of two +of them broke, and two others were blown quite across the river; nor was +it till two o’clock that the whole party were reassembled, waiting in +the rain for daylight.” + +The party now began to meet white men in small detachments coming up the +river. On the third of September, for example, they met the first men +who were able to give them news of home. This party was commanded by a +Mr. James Airs (or Ayres), from Mackinaw, by the way of Prairie du Chien +and St. Louis. He had two canoes loaded with merchandise which he was +taking up the river to trade with the Indians. Among the items of news +gathered from him, according to the private journal of one of the Lewis +and Clark party, was that General James Wilkinson was now Governor +of Louisiana Territory, and was stationed at St. Louis. This is the +Wilkinson who fought in the American Revolution, and was subsequently to +this time accused of accepting bribes from Spain and of complicity with +Aaron Burr in his treasonable schemes. Another item was to this effect: +“Mr. Burr & Genl. Hambleton fought a Duel, the latter was killed.” + This brief statement refers to the unhappy duel between Aaron Burr +and Alexander Hamilton, at Weehawken, New Jersey, July 11, 1804. This +interesting entry shows with what feelings the long-absent explorers met +Mr. Airs:-- + +“After so long an interval, the sight of anyone who could give us +information of our country was peculiarly delightful, and much of the +night was spent in making inquiries into what had occurred during our +absence. We found Mr. Airs a very friendly and liberal gentleman; when +we proposed to him to purchase a small quantity of tobacco, to be paid +for in St. Louis, he very readily furnished every man of the party with +as much as he could use during the rest of the voyage, and insisted +on our accepting a barrel of flour. This last we found very agreeable, +although we have still a little flour which we had deposited at the +mouth of Maria’s River. We could give in return only about six bushels +of corn, which was all that we could spare.” + +Three days later, the voyagers met a trading-boat belonging to Mr. +Augustus Chouteau, the founder of a famous trading-house in St. Louis. +From this party the captains procured a gallon of whiskey, and with this +they served out a dram to each of their men. “This,” says the journal, +“is the first spirituous liquor any of them have tasted since the Fourth +of July, 1805.” From this time forward, the returning explorers met +trading parties nearly every day; and this showed that trade was +following the flag far up into the hitherto unexplored regions of the +American continent. + +The explorers, hungry for news from home, would have tarried and talked +longer with their new-found friends, but they were anxious to get +down to civilization once more. Their journal also says: “The Indians, +particularly the squaws and children, are weary of the long journey, and +we are desirous of seeing our country and friends.” This quotation from +the journal gives us our first intimation that any Indians accompanied +Big White to the United States. He appears to have had a small retinue +of followers men, women, and children--with him. + +Below the mouth of the Platte, September 12, Lewis and Clark met +Gravelines, the interpreter who was sent to Washington from Fort Mandan, +in 1805, with despatches, natural history specimens, and a Ricara chief. +The chief had unfortunately died in Washington, and Gravelines was now +on his way to the Ricaras with a speech from President Jefferson and the +presents that had been given to the chief. He also had instructions to +teach the Ricaras in agriculture. + +It is interesting to note how that the explorers, now tolerably well +acquainted with the Indian character since their long experience with +the red men, had adopted a very different bearing from that which they +had when coming up the river, in 1805. Here is an extract from their +journal, September 14:-- + +“We resumed our journey. This being a part of the river to which the +Kansas resort, in order to rob the boats of traders, we held ourselves +in readiness to fire upon any Indians who should offer us the slightest +indignity; as we no longer needed their friendship, and found that a +tone of firmness and decision is the best possible method of making +proper impressions on these freebooters. However, we did not +encounter any of them; but just below the old Kansas village met three +trading-boats from St. Louis, on their way to the Yanktons and Mahas.” + +Thirty miles below the island of Little Osage village, the party met +Captain McClellan, formerly of the United States army. He informed +Captain Lewis that the party had been given up for lost, people +generally believing that they would never again be heard from; but, +according to the journal of one of the party, “The President of the U. +States yet had hopes of us.” The last news received in “the U. States” + from the explorers was that sent from Fort Mandan, by Gravelines, in +1805. + +Scarcity of provisions once more disturbed the party, so that, on the +eighteenth of September, the journal sets forth the fact that game was +very scarce and nothing was seen by the hunters but a bear and three +turkeys, which they were unable to reach. The men, however, were +perfectly satisfied, although they were allowed only one biscuit +per day. An abundance of pawpaws growing along the banks sufficed as +nutritious food. The pawpaw is native to many of the Western States +of the Republic. It is a fruit three or four inches long, growing on +a small tree, or bush. The fruit is sweet and juicy and has several +bean-shaped seeds embedded in the pulp. The voyagers now began to see +signs of civilization on the banks of the river. Near the mouth of the +Gasconade, above St. Louis, they beheld cows grazing in the meadows. The +journal says: “The whole party almost involuntarily raised a shout of +joy at seeing this image of civilization and domestic life.” Men who +have been wandering in pathless wildernesses, remote from man, for more +than two years, might well be moved by the sights of a homelike farm +and a settled life. Soon after this the party reached the little French +village of La Charette which they saluted with four guns and three +hearty cheers. Then, according to the journal, they landed and were +warmly received by the people, who had long since abandoned all hope +of ever seeing these far-voyaging adventurers return. Here are the +last entries in the journal that has been our guide so long across the +continent and back again to the haunts of men:-- + +“Sunday, September 21st, we proceeded; and as several settlements have +been made during our absence, we were refreshed with the sight of men +and cattle along the banks. We also passed twelve canoes of Kickapoo +Indians, going on a hunting-excursion. At length, after coming +forty-eight miles, we saluted, with heartfelt satisfaction, the +village of St. Charles, and on landing were treated with the greatest +hospitality and kindness by all the inhabitants of that place. Their +civility detained us till ten o’clock the next morning. + +“September 22d, when the rain having ceased, we set out for Coldwater +Creek, about three miles from the mouth of the Missouri, where we found +a cantonment of troops of the United States, with whom we passed the +day; and then, + +“September 23d, descended to the Mississippi, and round to St. Louis, +where we arrived at twelve o’clock; and having fired a salute, went on +shore and received the heartiest and most hospitable welcome from the +whole village.” + +The two captains were very busily employed, as soon as they arrived in +St. Louis, with writing letters to their friends and to the officers +of the government who were concerned to know of their safe return to +civilization. Captain Lewis’ letter to the President of the United +States, announcing his arrival, was dated Sept. 23, 1806. President +Jefferson’s reply was dated October 20 of that year. In his letter the +President expressed his “unspeakable joy” at the safe return of the +expedition. He said that the unknown scenes in which they had been +engaged and the length of time during which no tidings had been received +from them “had begun to be felt awfully.” It may seem strange to modern +readers familiar with the means for rapid travel and communication that +no news from the explorers, later than that which they sent from the +Mandan country, was received in the United States until their return, +two years and four months later. But mail facilities were very scanty +in those far-off days, even in the settled portions of the Mississippi +Valley, and few traders had then penetrated to those portions of the +Lower Missouri that had just been travelled by Lewis and Clark. As we +have seen, white men were regarded with awe and curiosity by the natives +of the regions which the explorers traversed in their long absence. The +first post-office in what is now the great city of St. Louis was not +established until 1808; mails between the Atlantic seaboard and that +“village” required six weeks to pass either way. + +The two captains went to Washington early in the year following their +arrival in St. Louis. There is extant a letter from Captain Lewis, +dated at Washington, Feb. 11, 1807. Congress was then in session, and, +agreeably to the promises that had been held out to the explorers, the +Secretary of War (General Henry Dearborn), secured from that body +the passage of an act granting to each member of the expedition a +considerable tract of land from the public domain. To each private +and non-commissioned officer was given three hundred acres; to Captain +Clark, one thousand acres, and to Captain Lewis fifteen hundred acres. +In addition to this, the two officers were given double pay for their +services during the time of their absence. Captain Lewis magnanimously +objected to receiving more land for his services than that given to +Captain Clark. + +Captain Lewis resigned from the army, March 2, 1807, having been +nominated to be Governor of Louisiana Territory a few days before. His +commission as Governor was dated March 3 of that year. He was thus +made the Governor of all the territory of the United States west of the +Mississippi River. About the same time, Captain Clark was appointed a +general of the territorial militia and Indian agent for that department. + +Originally, the territory acquired from France was divided into the +District of New Orleans and the District of Louisiana, the first-named +being the lower portion of the territory and bounded on the north by +a line which now represents the northern boundary of the State of +Louisiana; and all above that line was known as the District of +Louisiana. In 1812, the upper part, or Louisiana, was named the +Territory of Missouri, and Captain Clark (otherwise General), was +appointed Governor of the Territory, July 1, 1813, his old friend and +comrade having died a few years earlier. + +The end of Captain (otherwise Governor) Lewis was tragical and was +shadowed by a cloud. Official business calling him to Washington, he +left St. Louis early in September, 1809, and prosecuted his journey +eastward through Tennessee, by the way of Chickasaw Bluffs, now Memphis, +of that State. There is a mystery around his last days. On the eleventh +of October, he stopped at a wayside log-inn, and that night he died +a violent death, whether by his own hand or by that of a murderer, no +living man knows. There were many contradictory stories about the sad +affair, some persons holding to the one theory and some to the other. +He was buried where he died, in the centre of what is now Lewis County, +Tennessee. In 1848, the State of Tennessee erected over the last +resting-place of Lewis a handsome monument, the inscriptions on which +duly set forth his many virtues and his distinguished services to his +country. + +The story of the expedition of Lewis and Clark is the foundation of the +history of the great Northwest and the Missouri Valley. These men +and their devoted band of followers were the first to break into the +world-old solitudes of the heart of the continent and to explore +the mountain fastnesses in which the mighty Columbia has its birth. +Following in their footsteps, the hardy American emigrant, trader, +adventurer, and home-seeker penetrated the wilderness, and, building +better than they knew, laid the foundations of populous and thriving +States. Peaceful farms and noble cities, towns and villages, thrilling +with the hum of modern industry and activity, are spread over the vast +spaces through which the explorers threaded their toilsome trail, amid +incredible privations and hardships, showing the way westward across the +boundless continent which is ours. Let the names of those two men long +be held in grateful honor by the American people! + + + +INDEX + + A + + Alkali, natural deposits of, 60. + Antelope, first seen, 29, how hunted, 69. + Assiniboins, at war with Sioux, 49. + + B + + Beaver, hunted as game, 70, + Beaver Head, 143. + Big Dry River, 75. + Bismarck, N. D., 44. + Bitter Root Mountains, 147. + Black Cat, a Mandan chief, 342. + Boone, Daniel, 14. + Buffalo, first signs of, 16; hunt, 51; curious adventure with, 87; + extermination of, 338. + + C + + Caches, how built, 98. + Calumet bird, 43. + Camas, edible root, 179. + Cameahwait, a Shoshonee chief, 157. + Camp, first winter, 48; departure from, 57. + Candle-fish, 252. + Cannonball River, N. D-, 43. + Captain Cook, 3. + Captain Gray, 3. + Captain Vancouver, 3. + Carroll, Mont., 83. + Carver, Jonathan, 5. + Cascades of the Columbia, 262. + Cathedral Rocks, 90-92. + Cheyenne River, 40. + Chinook Indians, 208, some account of, 246. + Chouteau, a St. Louis trader, 355. + Christmas (1804), 52. (1805), 240- + Clark, Captain, biographical notice Of, 7. + general of militia, 359. + Clark’s Fort, 48. + river, 180-63. + party overtaken by disaster, 142. + Clatsop Indians, some account Of, 248. + Clearwater River, 183. + Cloudburst, 116. + Columbia River, discovery Of, 4. + portage to, 108; + at the headwaters of, 148. + at the entrance to, 194. + great falls of, 202; + the great chute Of, 21. + et seq. Comowol, a Columbia River Indian + chief, 239. + Condor, a California variety, 256. + Council Bluffs, 19. + Cowas, an edible root, 278. + Coyote, described, 72. + Crow Indians, 24. + + D + + Dalles, the, 266. + Dearborn River, 130. + Divide, on the great, 148; + across the, 179. + Dog’s flesh as an article of food, 24. + 185- + + E + + Echeloot Indians, 210. + Elk, hunting of, 251. + Ermine, first seen, 49. + Expedition, Lewis and Clark’s, 7. + Organization of, 8. + route of, 10; + sets sail, 14. + “Experiment,” failure of the boat, 124 + + F + + Falls of the Missouri, 101. + description of, 11. et seq. + Flathead Indians, 211. + Floyd’s River, why so named, 23. + Forks of the Missouri, 135. + Fort Clark, 48. + Clatsop, 255. + + G + + Gallatin’s fork of the Missouri, 135. + Gates of the Rocky Mountains, 132. + Goose-nests in trees, 61. + gray, Capt., discoverer of the Columbia, 3. + Grizzly bear, first seen, 40. + thrilling encounters with, 72, 76, 77, 105, 115, 315- + + H + + Horse-flesh eaten by the expedition, 77. + Hungry Creek, 178, 303- + + 1 + + Independence Day, celebration of (1805), 123. + (180(i), 327. + Iowa Indians, 16. + Islands, White Bear, 110. + + J + + Jefferson, President Thomas, 2-4. + his letters to Capt. Lewis, 12. + presents to, + from Lewis and Clark, 55. + welcome to Capt. Lewis on return, 358. + name given + to fork of the Missouri, 135. + John Day’s River, 203- + + K + + Klikitat River, 214. + Kooskooskee River, 180. + + L + + Lewis, Capt., biographical notice of, 6, 7. + accidentally wounded, 341; + announces his return, 358. + Governor of Louisiana Territory, 359; + his tragical death, 360. + Lewis and Clark, pursue separate routes across + the Divide, 140. + also on their return, 310. + Lewis’s River, 165. + + Lewiston, Idaho, 185. + Ledyard, John, 4. + Lemhi River, 152. + Little Devils, hill Of, 23. + Louisiana Purchase, the, 1-2; + divided into two territories, 360. + + M + + Madison, fork of the Missouri, 135. + Mandan Indians, 4. et seq.; + religion of, 50. + Maria’s River, 97. + Medicine River, 106. + Meriwether’s Bay, 234. + Milk River, 74. + Minnetarees, at war + with Sioux, 49. + expedition has an encounter with, 31. et seq, + Missouri River, Little, 60. + Missouri, the Upper, So; great falls of, 101; + forks of, 135. + at the headwaters Of, 147. + Mosquitoes, the great + plague of, 126, 339. + Mount St. Helen’s, 198. + Hood, 203. + Mouse River, source of, 60. + Multnomah (Willamette) River, 221. + 259. + Musselshell River, 81. + + N + + Nez Perce Indians (Chopunnish), 180. + some account of the, 186. + Noises, mysterious, 122. + + 0 + + Osage Indians, traditions of, 15. + Ottoes, council with, 20. + + P + + Pacific Ocean, first sight of the, 225. + Pawpaw fruit, 357. + Pemmican, 33. + Platte River as a boundary, 17. + Porcupine River, 70. + Prairie dog, 29. + + Q Quamash flats, 302. + Quicksand River, 220. + + R + + Rat, peculiar variety of, 121. + Rickarees, in the country + of the, 40. + River, Little Missouri, to; Mouse, source of, 60; + Yellowstone, 65. + Porcupine, 70. + Saskatchewan, 74. + Milk, 74; + Big Dry, 75. + Upper Missouri, 80. + Musselshell, 81. + Slaughter, 88; + Maria’s, 97. + Madison, 106. + Columbia, portage to, 108. + Smith’s, 129; + Dearborn, 130. + Salmon, 152. + Lemhi, 152. + Lewis’s, 165. + Kooskooskee, 180; + Clark’s, 180. + Clearwater, 183. + Snake, 188. + Yakima, 196. + John Day’S, 203; + Klikitat, 21. + Quicksand, 220. + Multnomah. 220. + Rocky Mountains, + first sight of, 85. + sheep, 85. + gates of the, 132. + farewell to + the mountains, 335. + Rocks, Cathedral, 90-92. + + S + + St. Louis, village of, 11. + first post-office in, 359. + Sacajawea, joins the expedition, 4. + stream named for her, 82; + story of her capture, 138. + finds her own people, 160. + a tribute to + her memory, 332. + Sage-brush, first seen, 62. + Saline County, Mo., 16. + Salmon River, 152. + City, Idaho, 165. + abundance of fish, 194. + Salt, made from sea-water, 23. + et seq. Saskatchewan River, 74. + Shannon, the lost hunter, 143. + Shoshonees, first meeting with, 14. + among the, 15. + et seq.; some account of the, 17. + et seq. + Sioux Indians, 27. + Slaughter River, 88. + Smith’s River, 128. + + Snake River, 188. + junction of the with Columbia, 190. + Sokulk Indians, some account of, 19. + et seq. Spirit Mound, 24. + Spring River, S. D-; 42. + Stone-Idol Creek, legend Of, 42. + Sweat baths, Indian, 187, 298. + + T + + Tetons, in the country of, 33-38. + Three-thousand-mile Island, 331. + Tillamook Indians, 244. + Traveller’s-rest Creek, 309. + Twisted-hair, an Indian chief, adventures with, 28. et seq. + + U Umatilla, 271- + + V + + Vancouver, Capt-y 3- + + W + + Wahkiacum Indians, 224. + Walla Walla, 271. + Wappatoo, edible root, 23. + description of, 260. + Weocksockwillacums, 265. + Wharfington, commands return party to the U. S., 58. + White Bear Islands, 110. + camp at, 114. + Whisky, Indian rejection + of, 42. + Winter camp, first, 48. + departure from, 57- + + Y + + Yakima River, 196. + Yankton, S. D., 24. + Yellowstone River, 65; + Capt. Clark’s descent of the, 327. + York, a negro servant, 41. 159. + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg’s First Across the Continent, by Noah Brooks + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FIRST ACROSS THE CONTINENT *** + +***** This file should be named 1236-0.txt or 1236-0.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/1/2/3/1236/ + +Produced by Charles Keller and David Widger + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, +set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to +copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to +protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. 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Thus, we do not necessarily +keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. + + +Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: + + http://www.gutenberg.org + +This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, +including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to +subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. diff --git a/old/1236-0.zip b/old/1236-0.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..416d8c4 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/1236-0.zip diff --git a/old/1236-h.zip b/old/1236-h.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..77c6379 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/1236-h.zip diff --git a/old/1236-h/1236-h.htm b/old/1236-h/1236-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..7dca319 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/1236-h/1236-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,11351 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="utf-8"?> + +<!DOCTYPE html + PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd" > + +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" lang="en"> + <head> + <title> + First Across the Continent, by Noah Brooks + </title> + <style type="text/css" xml:space="preserve"> + + body { margin:5%; background:#faebd0; text-align:justify} + P { text-indent: 1em; margin-top: .25em; margin-bottom: .25em; } + H1,H2,H3,H4,H5,H6 { text-align: center; margin-left: 15%; margin-right: 15%; } + hr { width: 50%; text-align: center;} + .foot { margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%; text-align: justify; text-indent: -3em; font-size: 90%; } + blockquote {font-size: 97%; font-style: italic; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%;} + .mynote {background-color: #DDE; color: #000; padding: .5em; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 95%;} + .toc { margin-left: 10%; margin-bottom: .75em;} + .toc2 { margin-left: 20%;} + div.fig { display:block; margin:0 auto; text-align:center; } + div.middle { margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%; text-align: justify; } + .figleft {float: left; margin-left: 0%; margin-right: 1%;} + .figright {float: right; margin-right: 0%; margin-left: 1%;} + .pagenum {display:inline; font-size: 70%; font-style:normal; + margin: 0; padding: 0; position: absolute; right: 1%; + text-align: right;} + pre { font-style: italic; font-size: 90%; margin-left: 10%;} + +</style> + </head> + <body> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + +The Project Gutenberg EBook of First Across the Continent, by Noah Brooks + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: First Across the Continent + +Author: Noah Brooks + +Release Date: February 11, 2006 [EBook #1236] +Last Updated: November 1, 2016 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: UTF-8 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FIRST ACROSS THE CONTINENT *** + + + + +Produced by Charles Keller and David Widger + + + + + +</pre> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <h1> + FIRST ACROSS THE CONTINENT + </h1> + <h3> + The Story of The Exploring Expedition of Lewis and Clark in 1804-5-6 + </h3> + <p> + <br /> + </p> + <h2> + By Noah Brooks + </h2> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <blockquote> + <p class="toc"> + <big><b>CONTENTS</b></big> + </p> + <p> + <br /> <a href="#link2HCH0001"> Chapter I </a> A Great + Transaction in Land <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0002"> Chapter II</a> + Beginning a Long Journey <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0003"> Chapter III</a> + From the Lower to the Upper River <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0004"> + Chapter IV</a> Novel Experiences among the Indians <br /><br /> + <a href="#link2HCH0005"> Chapter V</a> From the Tetons to + the Mandans <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0006"> Chapter VI</a> + Winter among the Mandans <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0007"> Chapter VII</a> + From Fort Mandan to the Yellowstone <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0008"> + Chapter VIII</a> In the Haunts of Grizzlies and Buffalo + <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0009"> Chapter IX</a> In the + Solitudes of the Upper Missouri <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0010"> + Chapter X</a> To the Great Falls of the Missouri <br /><br /> + <a href="#link2HCH0011"> Chapter XI</a> A the Heart of the + Continent <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0012"> Chapter XII</a> + At the Sources of the Missouri <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0013"> + Chapter XIII</a> From the Minnetarees to the Shoshonees + <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0014"> Chapter XIV</a> Across + the Great Divide <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0015"> Chapter XV</a> + Down the Pacific Slope <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0016"> Chapter XVI</a> + Down the Columbia to Tidewater <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0017"> + Chapter XVII</a> From Tidewater to the Sea <br /><br /> <a + href="#link2HCH0018"> Chapter XVIII</a> Camping by the + Pacific <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0019"> Chapter XIX</a> + With Faces turned Homeward <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0020"> Chapter + XX</a> The Last Stage of the Columbia <br /><br /> <a + href="#link2HCH0021"> Chapter XXI</a> Overland east of the + Columbia <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0022"> Chapter XXII</a> + Camping with the Nez Perces <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0023"> Chapter + XXIII </a> Crossing the Bitter Root + Mountains <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0024"> Chapter XXIV</a> + The Expedition Subdivided <br /><br /> <a href="#link2HCH0025"> Chapter + XXV</a> Adventures on the Yellowstone <br /><br /> <a + href="#link2HCH0026"> Chapter XXVI</a> The End of a Long + Journey <br /><br /> + </p> + </blockquote> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0001" id="link2HCH0001"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> <br /> <br /> <br /> + </p> + <h2> + Chapter I — A Great Transaction in Land + </h2> + <p> + The people of the young Republic of the United States were greatly + astonished, in the summer of 1803, to learn that Napoleon Bonaparte, then + First Consul of France, had sold to us the vast tract of land known as the + country of Louisiana. The details of this purchase were arranged in Paris + (on the part of the United States) by Robert R. Livingston and James + Monroe. The French government was represented by Barbe-Marbois, Minister + of the Public Treasury. + </p> + <p> + The price to be paid for this vast domain was fifteen million dollars. The + area of the country ceded was reckoned to be more than one million square + miles, greater than the total area of the United States, as the Republic + then existed. Roughly described, the territory comprised all that part of + the continent west of the Mississippi River, bounded on the north by the + British possessions and on the west and south by dominions of Spain. This + included the region in which now lie the States of Louisiana, Arkansas, + Missouri, Kansas, parts of Colorado, Minnesota, the States of Iowa, + Nebraska, South Dakota, North Dakota, Wyoming, a part of Idaho, all of + Montana and Territory of Oklahoma. At that time, the entire population of + the region, exclusive of the Indian tribes that roamed over its trackless + spaces, was barely ninety thousand persons, of whom forty thousand were + negro slaves. The civilized inhabitants were principally French, or + descendants of French, with a few Spanish, Germans, English, and + Americans. + </p> + <p> + The purchase of this tremendous slice of territory could not be complete + without an approval of the bargain by the United States Senate. Great + opposition to this was immediately excited by people in various parts of + the Union, especially in New England, where there was a very bitter + feeling against the prime mover in this business,—Thomas Jefferson, + then President of the United States. The scheme was ridiculed by persons + who insisted that the region was not only wild and unexplored, but + uninhabitable and worthless. They derided “The Jefferson Purchase,” as + they called it, as a useless piece of extravagance and folly; and, in + addition to its being a foolish bargain, it was urged that President + Jefferson had no right, under the constitution of the United States, to + add any territory to the area of the Republic. + </p> + <p> + Nevertheless, a majority of the people were in favor of the purchase, and + the bargain was duly approved by the United States Senate; that body, July + 31, 1803, just three months after the execution of the treaty of cession, + formally ratified the important agreement between the two governments. The + dominion of the United States was now extended across the entire continent + of North America, reaching from the Atlantic to the Pacific. The Territory + of Oregon was already ours. + </p> + <p> + This momentous transfer took place one hundred years ago, when almost + nothing was known of the region so summarily handed from the government of + France to the government of the American Republic. Few white men had ever + traversed those trackless plains, or scaled the frowning ranges of + mountains that barred the way across the continent. There were living in + the fastnesses of the mysterious interior of the Louisiana Purchase many + tribes of Indians who had never looked in the face of the white man. + </p> + <p> + Nor was the Pacific shore of the country any better known to civilized man + than was the region lying between that coast and the Big Muddy, or + Missouri River. Spanish voyagers, in 1602, had sailed as far north as the + harbors of San Diego and Monterey, in what is now California; and other + explorers, of the same nationality, in 1775, extended their discoveries as + far north as the fifty-eighth degree of latitude. Famous Captain Cook, the + great navigator of the Pacific seas, in 1778, reached and entered Nootka + Sound, and, leaving numerous harbors and bays unexplored, he pressed on + and visited the shores of Alaska, then called Unalaska, and traced the + coast as far north as Icy Cape. Cold weather drove him westward across the + Pacific, and he spent the next winter at Owyhee, where, in February of the + following year, he was killed by the natives. + </p> + <p> + All these explorers were looking for chances for fur-trading, which was at + that time the chief industry of the Pacific coast. Curiously enough, they + all passed by the mouth of the Columbia without observing that there was + the entrance to one of the finest rivers on the American continent. + </p> + <p> + Indeed, Captain Vancouver, a British explorer, who has left his name on + the most important island of the North Pacific coast, baffled by the + deceptive appearances of the two capes that guard the way to a noble + stream (Cape Disappointment and Cape Deception), passed them without a + thought. But Captain Gray, sailing the good ship “Columbia,” of Boston, + who coasted those shores for more than two years, fully convinced that a + strong current which he observed off those capes came from a river, made a + determined effort; and on the 11th of May, 1792, he discovered and entered + the great river that now bears the name of his ship. At last the key that + was to open the mountain fastnesses of the heart of the continent had been + found. The names of the capes christened by Vancouver and re-christened by + Captain Gray have disappeared from our maps, but in the words of one of + the numerous editors(1) of the narrative of the exploring expedition of + Lewis and Clark: “The name of the good ship ‘Columbia,’ it is not hard to + believe, will flow with the waters of the bold river as long as grass + grows or water runs in the valleys of the Rocky Mountains.” + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + (1) Dr. Archibald McVickar. +</pre> + <p> + It appears that the attention of President Jefferson had been early + attracted to the vast, unexplored domain which his wise foresight was + finally to add to the territory of the United States. While he was living + in Paris, as the representative of the United States, in 1785-89, he made + the acquaintance of John Ledyard, of Connecticut, the well-known explorer, + who had then in mind a scheme for the establishment of a fur-trading post + on the western coast of America. Mr. Jefferson proposed to Ledyard that + the most feasible route to the coveted fur-bearing lands would be through + the Russian possessions and downward somewhere near to the latitude of the + then unknown sources of the Missouri River, entering the United States by + that route. This scheme fell through on account of the obstacles thrown in + Ledyard’s way by the Russian Government. A few years later, in 1792, + Jefferson, whose mind was apparently fixed on carrying out his project, + proposed to the American Philosophical Society of Philadelphia that a + subscription should be opened for the purpose of raising money “to engage + some competent person to explore that region in the opposite direction + (from the Pacific coast),—that is, by ascending the Missouri, + crossing the Stony (Rocky) Mountains, and descending the nearest river to + the Pacific.” This was the hint from which originated the famous + expedition of Lewis and Clark. + </p> + <p> + But the story-teller should not forget to mention that hardy and + adventurous explorer, Jonathan Carver. This man, the son of a British + officer, set out from Boston, in 1766, to explore the wilderness north of + Albany and lying along the southern shore of the Great Lakes. He was + absent two years and seven months, and in that time he collected a vast + amount of useful and strange information, besides learning the language of + the Indians among whom he lived. He conceived the bold plan of travelling + up a branch of the Missouri (or “Messorie”), till, having discovered the + source of the traditional “Oregon, or River of the West,” on the western + side of the lands that divide the continent, “he would have sailed down + that river to the place where it is said to empty itself, near the Straits + of Anian.” + </p> + <p> + By the Straits of Anian, we are to suppose, were meant some part of + Behring’s Straits, separating Asia from the American continent. Carver’s + fertile imagination, stimulated by what he knew of the remote Northwest, + pictured that wild region where, according to a modern poet, “rolls the + Oregon and hears no sound save his own dashing.” But Carver died without + the sight; in his later years, he said of those who should follow his + lead: “While their spirits are elated by their success, perhaps they may + bestow some commendations and blessings on the person who first pointed + out to them the way.” + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0002" id="link2HCH0002"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter II — Beginning a Long Journey + </h2> + <p> + In 1803, availing himself of a plausible pretext to send out an exploring + expedition, President Jefferson asked Congress to appropriate a small sum + of money ($2,500) for the execution of his purpose. At that time the + cession of the Louisiana Territory had not been completed; but matters + were in train to that end, and before the expedition was fairly started on + its long journey across the continent, the Territory was formally ceded to + the United States. + </p> + <p> + Meriwether Lewis, a captain in the army, was selected by Jefferson to lead + the expedition. Captain Lewis was a native of Virginia, and at that time + was only twenty-nine years old. He had been Jefferson’s private secretary + for two years and was, of course, familiar with the President’s plans and + expectations as these regarded the wonder-land which Lewis was to enter. + It is pleasant to quote here Mr. Jefferson’s words concerning Captain + Lewis. In a memoir of that distinguished young officer, written after his + death, Jefferson said: “Of courage undaunted; possessing a firmness and + perseverance of purpose which nothing but impossibilities could divert + from its direction; careful as a father of those committed to his charge, + yet steady in the maintenance of order and discipline; intimate with the + Indian character, customs and principles; habituated to the hunting life; + guarded, by exact observation of the vegetables and animals of his own + country, against losing time in the description of objects already + possessed; honest, disinterested, liberal, of sound understanding, and a + fidelity to truth so scrupulous that whatever he should report would be as + certain as if seen by ourselves—with all these qualifications, as if + selected and implanted by nature in one body for this express purpose, I + could have no hesitation in confiding the enterprise to him.” + </p> + <p> + Before we have finished the story of Meriwether Lewis and his companions, + we shall see that this high praise of the youthful commander was well + deserved. + </p> + <p> + For a coadjutor and comrade Captain Lewis chose William Clark,(1) also a + native of Virginia, and then about thirty-three years old. Clark, like + Lewis, held a commission in the military service of the United States, and + his appointment as one of the leaders of the expedition with which his + name and that of Lewis will ever be associated, made the two men equal in + rank. Exactly how there could be two captains commanding the same + expedition, both of the same military and actual rank, without jar or + quarrel, we cannot understand; but it is certain that the two young men + got on together harmoniously, and no hint or suspicion of any serious + disagreement between the two captains during their long and arduous + service has come down to us from those distant days. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + (1) It is a little singular that Captain Clark’s name has + been so persistently misspelled by historians and + biographers. Even in most of the published versions of the + story of the Lewis and Clark expedition, the name of one of + the captains is spelled Clarke. Clark’s own signature, of + which many are in existence, is without the final and + superfluous vowel; and the family name, for generations + past, does not show it. +</pre> + <p> + As finally organized, the expedition was made up of the two captains + (Lewis and Clark) and twenty-six men. These were nine young men from + Kentucky, who were used to life on the frontier among Indians; fourteen + soldiers of the United States Army, selected from many who eagerly + volunteered their services; two French voyageurs, or watermen, one of whom + was an interpreter of Indian language, and the other a hunter; and one + black man, a servant of Captain Clark. All these, except the negro + servant, were regularly enlisted as privates in the military service of + the United States during the expedition; and three of them were by the + captains appointed sergeants. In addition to this force, nine voyageurs + and a corporal and six private soldiers were detailed to act as guides and + assistants until the explorers should reach the country of the Mandan + Indians, a region lying around the spot where is now situated the + flourishing city of Bismarck, the capital of North Dakota. It was expected + that if hostile Indians should attack the explorers anywhere within the + limits of the little-known parts through which they were to make their + way, such attacks were more likely to be made below the Mandan country + than elsewhere. + </p> + <p> + The duties of the explorers were numerous and important. They were to + explore as thoroughly as possible the country through which they were to + pass; making such observations of latitude and longitude as would be + needed when maps of the region should be prepared by the War Department; + observing the trade, commerce, tribal relations, manners and customs, + language, traditions, and monuments, habits and industrial pursuits, + diseases and laws of the Indian nations with whom they might come in + contact; note the floral, mineral, and animal characteristics of the + country, and, above all, to report whatever might be of interest to + citizens who might thereafter be desirous of opening trade relations with + those wild tribes of which almost nothing was then distinctly known. + </p> + <p> + The list of articles with which the explorers were provided, to aid them + in establishing peaceful relations with the Indians, might amuse traders + of the present day. But in those primitive times, and among peoples + entirely ignorant of the white man’s riches and resources, coats richly + laced with gilt braid, red trousers, medals, flags, knives, colored + handkerchiefs, paints, small looking-glasses, beads and tomahawks were + believed to be so attractive to the simple-minded red man that he would + gladly do much and give much of his own to win such prizes. Of these fine + things there were fourteen large bales and one box. The stores of the + expedition were clothing, working tools, fire-arms, food supplies, powder, + ball, lead for bullets, and flints for the guns then in use, the + old-fashioned flint-lock rifle and musket being still in vogue in our + country; for all of this was at the beginning of the present century. + </p> + <p> + As the party was to begin their long journey by ascending the Missouri + River, their means of travel were provided in three boats. The largest, a + keel-boat, fifty-five feet long and drawing three feet of water, carried a + big square sail and twenty-two seats for oarsmen. On board this craft was + a small swivel gun. The other two boats were of that variety of open craft + known as pirogue, a craft shaped like a flat-iron, square-sterned, + flat-bottomed, roomy, of light draft, and usually provided with four oars + and a square sail which could be used when the wind was aft, and which + also served as a tent, or night shelter, on shore. Two horses, for hunting + or other occasional service, were led along the banks of the river. + </p> + <p> + As we have seen, President Jefferson, whose master mind organized and + devised this expedition, had dwelt longingly on the prospect of crossing + the continent from the headwaters of the Missouri to the headwaters of the + then newly-discovered Columbia. The route thus explored was more difficult + than that which was later travelled by the first emigrants across the + continent to California. That route lies up the Platte River, through what + is known as the South Pass of the Rocky Mountains, by Great Salt Lake and + down the valley of the Humboldt into California, crossing the Sierra + Nevada at any one of several points leading into the valley of the + Sacramento. The route, which was opened by the gold-seekers, was followed + by the first railroads built across the continent. The route that lay so + firmly in Jefferson’s mind, and which was followed up with incredible + hardships by the Lewis and Clark expedition, has since been traversed by + two railroads, built after the first transcontinental rails were laid. If + Jefferson had desired to find the shortest and most feasible route across + the continent, he would have pointed to the South Pass and Utah basin + trails. But these would have led the explorers into California, then and + long afterwards a Spanish possession. The entire line finally traced over + the Great Divide lay within the territory of the United States. + </p> + <p> + But it must be remembered that while the expedition was being organized, + the vast Territory of Louisiana was as yet a French possession. Before the + party were brought together and their supplies collected, the territory + passed under the jurisdiction of the United States. Nevertheless, that + jurisdiction was not immediately acknowledged by the officials who, up to + that time, had been the representatives of the French and Spanish + governments. Part of the territory was transferred from Spain to France + and then from France to the United States. It was intended that the + exploring party should pass the winter of 1803-4 in St. Louis, then a mere + village which had been commonly known as Pain Court. But the Spanish + governor of the province had not been officially told that the country had + been transferred to the United States, and, after the Spanish manner, he + forbade the passage of the Americans through his jurisdiction. In those + days communication between frontier posts and points lying far to the + eastward of the Mississippi was very difficult; it required six weeks to + carry the mails between New York, Philadelphia, and Washington to St. + Louis; and this was the reason why a treaty, ratified in July, was not + officially heard of in St. Louis as late as December of that year. The + explorers, shut out of Spanish territory, recrossed the Mississippi and + wintered at the mouth of Wood River, just above St. Louis, on the eastern + side of the great river, in United States territory. As a matter of + record, it may be said here that the actual transfer of the lower part of + the territory—commonly known as Orleans—took place at New + Orleans, December 20, 1803, and the transfer of the upper part was + effected at St. Louis, March 10, 1804, before the Lewis and Clark + expedition had started on its long journey to the northwestward. + </p> + <p> + All over the small area of the United States then existed a deep interest + in the proposed explorations of the course and sources of the Missouri + River. The explorers were about to plunge into vast solitudes of which + white people knew less than we know now about the North Polar country. + Wild and extravagant stories of what was to be seen in those trackless + regions were circulated in the States. For example, it was said that Lewis + and Clark expected to find the mammoth of prehistoric times still living + and wandering in the Upper Missouri region; and it was commonly reported + that somewhere, a thousand miles or so up the river, was a solid mountain + of rock salt, eighty miles long and forty-five miles wide, destitute of + vegetation and glittering in the sun! These, and other tales like these, + were said to be believed and doted upon by the great Jefferson himself. + The Federalists, or “Feds,” as they were called, who hated Jefferson, + pretended to believe that he had invented some of these foolish yarns, + hoping thereby to make his Louisiana purchase more popular in the + Republic. + </p> + <p> + In his last letter to Captain Lewis, which was to reach the explorers + before they started, Jefferson said: “The acquisition of the country + through which you are to pass has inspired the country generally with a + great deal of interest in your enterprise. The inquiries are perpetual as + to your progress. The Feds alone still treat it as a philosophism, and + would rejoice at its failure. Their bitterness increases with the + diminution of their numbers and despair of a resurrection. I hope you will + take care of yourself, and be a living witness of their malice and folly.” + Indeed, after the explorers were lost sight of in the wilderness which + they were to traverse, many people in the States declaimed bitterly + against the folly that had sent these unfortunate men to perish miserably + in the fathomless depths of the continent. They no longer treated it “as a + philosophism,” or wild prank, but as a wicked scheme to risk life and + property in a search for the mysteries of the unknown and unknowable. + </p> + <p> + As a striking illustration of this uncertainty of the outcome of the + expedition, which exercised even the mind of Jefferson, it may be said + that in his instructions to Captain Lewis he said: “Our Consuls, Thomas + Hewes, at Batavia in Java, William Buchanan in the isles of France and + Bourbon, and John Elmslie at the Cape of Good Hope, will be able to supply + your necessities by drafts on us.” All this seems strange enough to the + young reader of the present day; but this was said and done one hundred + years ago. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0003" id="link2HCH0003"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter III — From the Lower to the Upper River + </h2> + <p> + The party finally set sail up the Missouri River on Monday, May 21, 1804, + but made only a few miles, owing to head winds. Four days later they + camped near the last white settlement on the Missouri,—La Charrette, + a little village of seven poor houses. Here lived Daniel Boone, the famous + Kentucky backwoodsman, then nearly seventy years old, but still vigorous, + erect, and strong of limb. Here and above this place the explorers began + to meet with unfamiliar Indian tribes and names. For example, they met two + canoes loaded with furs “from the Mahar nation.” The writer of the Lewis + and Clark journal, upon whose notes we rely for our story, made many slips + of this sort. By “Mahars” we must understand that the Omahas were meant. + We shall come across other such instances in which the strangers mistook + the pronunciation of Indian names. For example, Kansas was by them + misspelled as “Canseze” and “Canzan;” and there appear some thirteen or + fourteen different spellings of Sioux, of which one of the most + far-fetched is “Scouex.” + </p> + <p> + The explorers were now in a country unknown to them and almost unknown to + any white man. On the thirty-first of May, a messenger came down the Grand + Osage River bringing a letter from a person who wrote that the Indians, + having been notified that the country had been ceded to the Americans, + burned the letter containing the tidings, refusing to believe the report. + The Osage Indians, through whose territory they were now passing, were + among the largest and finest-formed red men of the West. Their name came + from the river along which they warred and hunted, but their proper title, + as they called themselves, was “the Wabashas,” and from them, in later + years, we derive the familiar name of Wabash. A curious tradition of this + people, according to the journal of Lewis and Clark, is that the founder + of the nation was a snail, passing a quiet existence along the banks of + the Osage, till a high flood swept him down to the Missouri, and left him + exposed on the shore. The heat of the sun at length ripened him into a + man; but with the change of his nature he had not forgotten his native + seats on the Osage, towards which he immediately bent his way. He was, + however, soon overtaken by hunger and fatigue, when happily, the Great + Spirit appeared, and, giving him a bow and arrow, showed him how to kill + and cook deer, and cover himself with the skin. He then proceeded to his + original residence; but as he approached the river he was met by a beaver, + who inquired haughtily who he was, and by what authority he came to + disturb his possession. The Osage answered that the river was his own, for + he had once lived on its borders. As they stood disputing, the daughter of + the beaver came, and having, by her entreaties, reconciled her father to + this young stranger, it was proposed that the Osage should marry the young + beaver, and share with her family the enjoyment of the river. The Osage + readily consented, and from this happy union there soon came the village + and the nation of the Wabasha, or Osages, who have ever since preserved a + pious reverence for their ancestors, abstaining from the chase of the + beaver, because in killing that animal they killed a brother of the Osage. + Of late years, however, since the trade with the whites has rendered + beaver-skins more valuable, the sanctity of these maternal relatives has + been visibly reduced, and the poor animals have lost all the privileges of + kindred. + </p> + <p> + Game was abundant all along the river as the explorers sailed up the + stream. Their hunters killed numbers of deer, and at the mouth of Big Good + Woman Creek, which empties into the Missouri near the present town of + Franklin, Howard County, three bears were brought into the camp. Here, + too, they began to find salt springs, or “salt licks,” to which many wild + animals resorted for salt, of which they were very fond. Saline County, + Missouri, perpetuates the name given to the region by Lewis and Clark. + Traces of buffalo were also found here, and occasional wandering traders + told them that the Indians had begun to hunt the buffalo now that the + grass had become abundant enough to attract this big game from regions + lying further south. + </p> + <p> + By the tenth of June the party had entered the country of the Ayauway + nation. This was an easy way of spelling the word now familiar to us as + “Iowa.” But before that spelling was reached, it was Ayaway, Ayahwa, + Iawai, Iaway, and so on. The remnants of this once powerful tribe now + number scarcely two hundred persons. In Lewis and Clark’s time, they were + a large nation, with several hundred warriors, and were constantly at war + with their neighbors. Game here grew still more abundant, and in addition + to deer and bear the hunters brought in a raccoon. One of these hunters + brought into camp a wild tale of a snake which, he said, “made a guttural + noise like a turkey.” One of the French voyageurs confirmed this story; + but the croaking snake was never found and identified. + </p> + <p> + On the twenty-fourth of June the explorers halted to prepare some of the + meat which their hunters brought in. Numerous herds of deer were feeding + on the abundant grass and young willows that grew along the river banks. + The meat, cut in small strips, or ribbons, was dried quickly in the hot + sun. This was called “jirked” meat. Later on the word was corrupted into + “jerked,” and “jerked beef” is not unknown at the present day. The verb + “jerk” is corrupted from the Chilian word, charqui, meaning sun-dried + meat; but it is not easy to explain how the Chilian word got into the + Northwest. + </p> + <p> + As the season advanced, the party found many delicious wild fruits, such + as currants, plums, raspberries, wild apples, and vast quantities of + mulberries. Wild turkeys were also found in large numbers, and the party + had evidently entered a land of plenty. Wild geese were abundant, and + numerous tracks of elk were seen. But we may as well say here that the + so-called elk of the Northwest is not the elk of ancient Europe; a more + correct and distinctive name for this animal is wapiti, the name given the + animal by the Indians. The European elk more closely resembles the + American moose. Its antlers are flat, low, and palmated like our moose; + whereas the antlers of the American elk, so-called, are long, high, and + round-shaped with many sharp points or tines. The mouth of the great + Platte River was reached on the twenty-first of July. This famous stream + was then regarded as a sort of boundary line between the known and unknown + regions. As mariners crossing the equator require all their comrades, who + have not been “over the line” to submit to lathering and shaving, so the + Western voyageurs merrily compelled their mates to submit to similar + horse-play. The great river was also the mark above which explorers + entered upon what was called the Upper Missouri. + </p> + <p> + The expedition was now advancing into a region inhabited by several + wandering tribes of Indians, chief of which were the Ottoes, Missouris, + and Pawnees. It was determined, therefore, to call a council of some of + the chiefs of these bands and make terms of peace with them. After some + delay, the messengers sent out to them brought in fourteen representative + Indians, to whom the white men made presents of roast meat, pork, flour, + and corn-meal, in return for which their visitors brought them quantities + of delicious watermelons. “Next day, August 3,” says the journal, “the + Indians, with their six chiefs, were all assembled under an awning formed + with the mainsail, in presence of all our party, paraded for the occasion. + A speech was then made, announcing to them the change in the government, + our promises of protection, and advice as to their future conduct. All the + six chiefs replied to our speech, each in his turn, according to rank. + They expressed their joy at the change in the government; their hopes that + we would recommend them to their Great Father (the president), that they + might obtain trade and necessaries: they wanted arms as well for hunting + as for defence, and asked our mediation between them and the Mahas, with + whom they are now at war. We promised to do so, and wished some of them to + accompany us to that nation, which they declined, for fear of being killed + by them. We then proceeded to distribute our presents. The grand chief of + the nation not being of the party, we sent him a flag, a medal, and some + ornaments for clothing. To the six chiefs who were present, we gave a + medal of the second grade to one Ottoe chief and one Missouri chief; a + medal of the third grade to two inferior chiefs of each nation; the + customary mode of recognizing a chief being to place a medal round his + neck, which is considered among his tribe as a proof of his consideration + abroad. Each of these medals was accompanied by a present of paint, + garters, and cloth ornaments of dress; and to this we added a canister of + powder, a bottle of whiskey, and a few presents to the whole, which + appeared to make them perfectly satisfied. The air-gun, too, was fired, + and astonished them greatly. The absent grand chief was an Ottoe, named + Weahrushhah, which, in English, degenerates into Little Thief. The two + principal chieftains present were Shongotongo, or Big Horse, and Wethea, + or Hospitality; also Shosguscan, or White Horse, an Ottoe; the first an + Ottoe, the second a Missouri. The incidents just related induced us to + give to this place the name of the Council Bluffs: the situation of it is + exceedingly favorable for a fort and trading factory, as the soil is well + calculated for bricks, and there is an abundance of wood in the + neighborhood, and the air being pure and healthy.” + </p> + <p> + Of course the reader will recognize, in the name given to this place by + Lewis and Clark, the flourishing modern city of Council Bluffs, Iowa. + Nevertheless, as a matter of fact, the council took place on the Nebraskan + or western side of the river, and the meeting-place was at some distance + above the site of the present city of Council Bluffs. + </p> + <p> + Above Council Bluffs the explorers found the banks of the river to be high + and bluffy, and on one of the highlands which they passed they saw the + burial-place of Blackbird, one of the great men of the Mahars, or Omahas, + who had died of small-pox. A mound, twelve feet in diameter and six feet + high, had been raised over the grave, and on a tall pole at the summit the + party fixed a flag of red, white, and blue. The place was regarded as + sacred by the Omahas, who kept the dead chieftain well supplied with + provisions. The small-pox had caused great mortality among the Indians; + and a few years before the white men’s visit, when the fell disease had + destroyed four hundred men, with a due proportion of women and children, + the survivors burned their village and fled. + </p> + <p> + “They had been a military and powerful people; but when these warriors saw + their strength wasting before a malady which they could not resist, their + frenzy was extreme; they burned their village, and many of them put to + death their wives and children, to save them from so cruel an affliction, + and that all might go together to some better country.” + </p> + <p> + In Omaha, or Mahar Creek, the explorers made their first experiment in + dragging the stream for fish. With a drag of willows, loaded with stones, + they succeeded in catching a great variety of fine fish, over three + hundred at one haul, and eight hundred at another. These were pike, bass, + salmon-trout, catfish, buffalo fish, perch, and a species of shrimp, all + of which proved an acceptable addition to their usual flesh bill-of-fare. + </p> + <p> + Desiring to call in some of the surrounding Indian tribes, they here set + fire to the dry prairie grass, that being the customary signal for a + meeting of different bands of roving peoples. In the afternoon of August + 18, a party of Ottoes, headed by Little Thief and Big Horse, came in, with + six other chiefs and a French interpreter. The journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “We met them under a shade, and after they had finished a repast with + which we supplied them, we inquired into the origin of the war between + them and the Mahas, which they related with great frankness. It seems that + two of the Missouris went to the Mahas to steal horses, but were detected + and killed; the Ottoes and Missouris thought themselves bound to avenge + their companions, and the whole nations were at last obliged to share in + the dispute. They are also in fear of a war from the Pawnees, whose + village they entered this summer, while the inhabitants were hunting, and + stole their corn. This ingenuous confession did not make us the less + desirous of negotiating a peace for them; but no Indians have as yet been + attracted by our fire. The evening was closed by a dance; and the next + day, the chiefs and warriors being assembled at ten o’clock, we explained + the speech we had already sent from the Council Bluffs, and renewed our + advice. They all replied in turn, and the presents were then distributed. + We exchanged the small medal we had formerly given to the Big Horse for + one of the same size with that of Little Thief: we also gave a small medal + to a third chief, and a kind of certificate or letter of acknowledgment to + five of the warriors expressive of our favor and their good intentions. + One of them, dissatisfied, returned us the certificate; but the chief, + fearful of our being offended, begged that it might be restored to him; + this we declined, and rebuked them severely for having in view mere + traffic instead of peace with their neighbors. This displeased them at + first; but they at length all petitioned that it should be given to the + warrior, who then came forward and made an apology to us; we then + delivered it to the chief to be given to the most worthy, and he bestowed + it on the same warrior, whose name was Great Blue Eyes. After a more + substantial present of small articles and tobacco, the council was ended + with a dram to the Indians. In the evening we exhibited different objects + of curiosity, and particularly the air-gun, which gave them great + surprise. Those people are almost naked, having no covering except a sort + of breech-cloth round the middle, with a loose blanket or buffalo robe, + painted, thrown over them. The names of these warriors, besides those + already mentioned, were Karkapaha, or Crow’s Head, and Nenasawa, or Black + Cat, Missouris; and Sananona, or Iron Eyes, Neswaunja, or Big Ox, + Stageaunja, or Big Blue Eyes, and Wasashaco, or Brave Man, all Ottoes.” + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0004" id="link2HCH0004"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter IV — Novel Experiences among the Indians + </h2> + <p> + About this time (the nineteenth and twentieth of August), the explorers + lost by death the only member of their party who did not survive the + journey. Floyd River, which flows into the Upper Missouri, in the + northwest corner of Iowa, still marks the last resting-place of Sergeant + Charles Floyd, who died there of bilious colic and was buried by his + comrades near the mouth of the stream. Near here was a quarry of red + pipestone, dear to the Indian fancy as a mine of material for their pipes; + traces of this deposit still remain. So fond of this red rock were the + Indians that when they went there to get the stuff, even lifelong and + vindictive enemies declared a truce while they gathered the material, and + savage hostile tribes suspended their wars for a time. + </p> + <p> + On the north side of the Missouri, at a point in what is now known as Clay + County, South Dakota, Captains Lewis and Clark, with ten men, turned aside + to see a great natural curiosity, known to the Indians as the Hill of + Little Devils. The hill is a singular mound in the midst of a flat + prairie, three hundred yards long, sixty or seventy yards wide, and about + seventy feet high. The top is a smooth level plain. The journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “The Indians have made it a great article of their superstition: it is + called the Mountain of Little People, or Little Spirits; and they believe + that it is the abode of little devils, in the human form, of about + eighteen inches high, and with remarkably large heads; they are armed with + sharp arrows, with which they are very skilful, and are always on the + watch to kill those who should have the hardihood to approach their + residence. The tradition is, that many have suffered from these little + evil spirits, and, among others, three Maha Indians fell a sacrifice to + them a few years since. This has inspired all the neighboring nations, + Sioux, Mahas, and Ottoes, with such terror, that no consideration could + tempt them to visit the hill. We saw none of these wicked little spirits, + nor any place for them, except some small holes scattered over the top; we + were happy enough to escape their vengeance, though we remained some time + on the mound to enjoy the delightful prospect of the plain, which spreads + itself out till the eye rests upon the northwest hills at a great + distance, and those of the northeast, still farther off, enlivened by + large herds of buffalo feeding at a distance.” + </p> + <p> + The present residents of the region, South Dakota, have preserved the + Indian tradition, and Spirit Mound may be seen on modern maps of that + country. + </p> + <p> + Passing on their way up the Missouri, the explorers found several kinds of + delicious wild plums and vast quantities of grapes; and here, too, they + passed the mouth of the Yankton River, now known as the Dakota, at the + mouth of which is the modern city of Yankton, South Dakota. The + Yankton-Sioux Indians, numbering about one thousand people, inhabited this + part of the country, and near here the white men were met by a large band + of these Sioux who had come in at the invitation of Lewis and Clark. The + messengers from the white men reported that they had been well received by + the Indians, who, as a mark of respect, presented their visitors with “a + fat dog, already cooked, of which they partook heartily and found it + well-flavored.” From this time, according to the journal, the explorers + tasted occasionally of roast dog, and later on they adopted this dish as a + regular feature of their bill-of-fare. They do tell us, however, that they + had some difficulty in getting used to so novel an article of food. + </p> + <p> + The Sioux and the white men held a grand council under an oak-tree, from + the top of which was flying the American flag. The head chief was + presented with a gold-laced uniform of the United States artillery, a + cocked hat and red feather. The lesser chiefs were also presented with + suitable gifts of lesser value. Various festivities followed the + conference. Next day another powwow was held at which the head chief, + Weucha, or Shake Hand, said:— + </p> + <p> + “‘I see before me my great father’s two sons. You see me and the rest of + our chiefs and warriors. We are very poor; we have neither powder, nor + ball, nor knives; and our women and children at the village have no + clothes. I wish that, as my brothers have given me a flag and a medal, + they would give something to those poor people, or let them stop and trade + with the first boat which comes up the river. I will bring the chiefs of + the Pawnees and Mahas together, and make peace between them; but it is + better that I should do it than my great father’s sons, for they will + listen to me more readily. I will also take some chiefs to your country in + the spring; but before that time I cannot leave home. I went formerly to + the English, and they gave me a medal and some clothes: when I went to the + Spaniards they gave me a medal, but nothing to keep it from my skin: but + now you give me a medal and clothes. But still we are poor; and I wish, + brothers, you would give us something for our squaws.’” + </p> + <p> + When he sat down, Mahtoree, or White Crane, rose: + </p> + <p> + “‘I have listened,’ said he, ‘to what our father’s words were yesterday; + and I am to-day glad to see how you have dressed our old chief. I am a + young man, and do not wish to take much; my fathers have made me a chief; + I had much sense before, but now I think I have more than ever. What the + old chief has declared I will confirm, and do whatever he and you please; + but I wish that you would take pity on us, for we are very poor.’ + </p> + <p> + “Another chief, called Pawnawneahpahbe, then said: + </p> + <p> + “‘I am a young man, and know but little; I cannot speak well, but I have + listened to what you have told the old chief, and will do whatever you + agree.’ + </p> + <p> + “The same sentiments were then repeated by Aweawechache. + </p> + <p> + “We were surprised,” the journal says, “at finding that the first of these + titles means Struck by the Pawnee, and was occasioned by some blow which + the chief had received in battle from one of the Pawnee tribe. The second + is in English Half Man, which seemed a singular name for a warrior, till + it was explained to have its origin, probably, in the modesty of the + chief, who, on being told of his exploits, would say, ‘I am no warrior, I + am only half a man.’ The other chiefs spoke very little; but after they + had finished, one of the warriors delivered a speech, in which he declared + he would support them. They promised to make peace with the Ottoes and + Missouris, the only nations with whom they are at war. All these harangues + concluded by describing the distress of the nation: they begged us to have + pity on them; to send them traders; that they wanted powder and ball; and + seemed anxious that we should supply them with some of their great + father’s milk, the name by which they distinguish ardent spirits. We gave + some tobacco to each of the chiefs, and a certificate to two of the + warriors who attended the chief We prevailed on M. Durion (interpreter) to + remain here, and accompany as many of the Sioux chiefs as he could collect + to the seat of government. We also gave his son a flag, some clothes, and + provisions, with directions to bring about a peace between the surrounding + tribes, and to convey some of their chiefs to see the President. + </p> + <p> + “The Indians who have just left us are the Yanktons, a tribe of the great + nation of Sioux. These Yanktons are about two hundred men in number, and + inhabit the Jacques, Des Moines, and Sioux Rivers. In person they are + stout, well proportioned, and have a certain air of dignity and boldness. + In their dress they differ nothing from the other bands of the nation whom + we met afterwards.” + </p> + <p> + Of the Sioux let us say here, there are many bands, or subdivisions. Some + writers make eighteen of these principal branches. But the first + importance is given to the Sioux proper, or Dakotas. The name “Sioux” is + one of reproach, given by their enemies, and signifies “snake;” whereas + “Dakota” means “friend” or “ally.” The Lewis and Clark journal says of the + Yankton-Sioux:— + </p> + <p> + “What struck us most was an institution peculiar to them and to the Kite + (Crow) Indians further to the westward, from whom it is said to have been + copied. It is an association of the most active and brave young men, who + are bound to each other by attachment, secured by a vow, never to retreat + before any danger, or give way to their enemies. In war they go forward + without sheltering themselves behind trees, or aiding their natural valor + by any artifice. Their punctilious determination not to be turned from + their course became heroic, or ridiculous, a short time since, when the + Yanktons were crossing the Missouri on the ice. A hole lay immediately in + their course, which might easily have been avoided by going around. This + the foremost of the band disdained to do, but went straight forward and + was lost. The others would have followed his example, but were forcibly + prevented by the rest of the tribe. These young men sit, camp, and dance + together, distinct from the rest of the nation; they are generally about + thirty or thirty-five years old, and such is the deference paid to courage + that their seats in council are superior to those of the chiefs and their + persons more respected. But, as may be supposed, such indiscreet bravery + will soon diminish the numbers of those who practise it; so that the band + is now reduced to four warriors, who were among our visitors. These were + the remains of twenty-two who composed the society not long ago; but, in a + battle with the Kite (Crow) Indians of the Black Mountains, eighteen of + them were killed, and these four were dragged from the field by their + companions.” + </p> + <p> + Just above the site of the city of Yankton, and near what is still known + as Bon Homme Island, Captain Clark explored a singular earth formation in + a bend of the river. This had all the appearance of an ancient + fortification, stretching across the bend and furnished with redoubts and + other features of a great fort. In the journal is given a glowing account + of the work and an elaborate map of the same. Modern research, however, + has proved that this strange arrangement of walls and parapets is only a + series of sand ridges formed by the currents of the river and driftings of + sand. Many of these so-called earthworks are situated on the west bank of + the Upper Missouri, in North Dakota and South Dakota. + </p> + <p> + A few days later, the party saw a species of animal which they described + as “goats,”—very fleet, with short pronged horns inclining backward, + and with grayish hair, marked with white on the rump. This creature, + however, was the American antelope, then unknown to science, and first + described by Lewis and Clark. While visiting a strange dome-shaped + mountain, “resembling a cupola,” and now known as “the Tower,” the + explorers found the abode of another animal, heretofore unknown to them. + “About four acres of ground,” says the journal, “was covered with small + holes.” The account continues: “These are the residence of a little + animal, called by the French petit chien (little dog), which sit erect + near the mouth, and make a whistling noise, but, when alarmed, take refuge + in their holes. In order to bring them out we poured into one of the holes + five barrels of water without filling it, but we dislodged and caught the + owner. After digging down another of the holes for six feet, we found, on + running a pole into it, that we had not yet dug half-way to the bottom: we + discovered, however, two frogs in the hole, and near it we killed a dark + rattlesnake, which had swallowed a small prairie dog. We were also + informed, though we never witnessed the fact, that a sort of lizard and a + snake live habitually with these animals. The petit chien are justly + named, as they resemble a small dog in some particulars, although they + have also some points of similarity to the squirrel. The head resembles + the squirrel in every respect, except that the ear is shorter; the tail + like that of the ground squirrel; the toe nails are long, the fur is fine, + and the long hair is gray.” + </p> + <p> + Great confusion has been caused in the minds of readers on account of + there being another burrowing animal, called by Lewis and Clark “the + burrowing squirrel,” which resembles the petit chien in some respects. But + the little animal described here is now well known as the prairie-dog,—an + unfortunate and misleading name. It is in no sense a species of dog. The + creature commonly weighs about three pounds, and its note resembles that + of a toy-dog. It is a species of marmot; it subsists on grass roots and + other vegetable products; its flesh is delicate and, when fat, of good + flavor. The writer of these lines, when crossing the great plains, in + early times, found the “prairie-dogs” excellent eating, but difficult to + kill; they are expert at diving into their holes at the slightest signal + of danger. + </p> + <p> + The following days they saw large herds of buffalo, and the copses of + timber appeared to contain elk and deer, “just below Cedar Island,” adds + the journal, “on a hill to the south, is the backbone of a fish, + forty-five feet long, tapering towards the tail, and in a perfect state of + petrifaction, fragments of which were collected and sent to Washington.” + This was not a fish, but the fossil remains of a reptile of one of the + earliest geological periods. Here, too, the party saw immense herds of + buffalo, thousands in number, some of which they killed for their meat and + skins. They also saw elk, deer, turkeys, grouse, beaver, and prairie-dogs. + The journal bitterly complains of the “moschetoes,” which were very + troublesome. As mosquitoes we now know them. + </p> + <p> + Oddly enough, the journal sometimes speaks of “goats” and sometimes of + “antelopes,” and the same animal is described in both instances. Here is a + good story of the fleetness of the beautiful creature:— + </p> + <p> + “Of all the animals we had seen, the antelope seems to possess the most + wonderful fleetness. Shy and timorous, they generally repose only on the + ridges, which command a view of all the approaches of an enemy: the + acuteness of their sight distinguishes the most distant danger; the + delicate sensibility of their smell defeats the precautions of + concealment; and, when alarmed, their rapid career seems more like the + flight of birds than the movements of a quadruped. After many unsuccessful + attempts, Captain Lewis at last, by winding around the ridges, approached + a party of seven, which were on an eminence towards which the wind was + unfortunately blowing. The only male of the party frequently encircled the + summit of the hill, as if to announce any danger to the females, which + formed a group at the top. Although they did not see Captain Lewis, the + smell alarmed them, and they fled when he was at the distance of two + hundred yards: he immediately ran to the spot where they had been; a + ravine concealed them from him; but the next moment they appeared on a + second ridge, at the distance of three miles. He doubted whether they + could be the same; but their number, and the extreme rapidity with which + they continued their course, convinced him that they must have gone with a + speed equal to that of the most distinguished race-horse. Among our + acquisitions to-day were a mule-deer, a magpie, a common deer, and + buffalo: Captain Lewis also saw a hare, and killed a rattlesnake near the + burrows of the barking squirrels.” + </p> + <p> + By “barking squirrels” the reader must understand that the animal better + known as the prairie-dog is meant; and the mule-deer, as the explorers + called it, was not a hybrid, but a deer with very long ears, better known + afterwards as the black-tailed deer. + </p> + <p> + At the Big Bend of the Missouri, in the heart of what is now South Dakota, + while camped on a sand-bar, the explorers had a startling experience. + “Shortly after midnight,” says the journal, “the sleepers were startled by + the sergeant on guard crying out that the sand-bar was sinking, and the + alarm was timely given; for scarcely had they got off with the boats + before the bank under which they had been lying fell in; and by the time + the opposite shore was reached, the ground on which they had been encamped + sunk also. A man who was sent to step off the distance across the head of + the bend, made it but two thousand yards, while its circuit is thirty + miles.” + </p> + <p> + The next day, three Sioux boys swam the river and told them that two + parties of their nation, one of eighty lodges, and one of sixty lodges, + were camped up the river, waiting to have a palaver with the white + explorers. These were Teton Sioux, and the river named for them still + bears that title. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0005" id="link2HCH0005"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter V — From the Tetons to the Mandans + </h2> + <p> + “On the morning of September 25th,” says the journal, “we raised a + flagstaff and an awning, under which we assembled, with all the party + parading under arms. The chiefs and warriors, from the camps two miles up + the river, met us, about fifty or sixty in number, and after smoking we + delivered them a speech; but as our Sioux interpreter, M. Durion, had been + left with the Yanktons, we were obliged to make use of a Frenchman who + could not speak fluently, and therefore we curtailed our harangue. After + this we went through the ceremony of acknowledging the chiefs, by giving + to the grand chief a medal, a flag of the United States, a laced uniform + coat, a cocked hat and feather; to the two other chiefs, a medal and some + small presents; and to two warriors of consideration, certificates. The + name of the great chief is Untongasabaw, or Black Buffalo; the second, + Tortohonga, or the Partisan; the third, Tartongawaka, or Buffalo Medicine; + the name of one of the warriors was Wawzinggo; that of the second, + Matocoquepa, or Second Bear. We then invited the chiefs on board, and + showed them the boat, the air-gun, and such curiosities as we thought + might amuse them. In this we succeeded too well; for, after giving them a + quarter of a glass of whiskey, which they seemed to like very much, and + sucked the bottle, it was with much difficulty that we could get rid of + them. They at last accompanied Captain Clark on shore, in a pirogue with + five men; but it seems they had formed a design to stop us; for no sooner + had the party landed than three of the Indians seized the cable of the + pirogue, and one of the soldiers of the chief put his arms round the mast. + The second chief, who affected intoxication, then said that we should not + go on; that they had not received presents enough from us. Captain Clark + told him that he would not be prevented from going on; that we were not + squaws, but warriors; that we were sent by our great father, who could in + a moment exterminate them. The chief replied that he too had warriors, and + was proceeding to offer personal violence to Captain Clark, who + immediately drew his sword, and made a signal to the boat to prepare for + action. The Indians, who surrounded him, drew their arrows from their + quivers, and were bending their bows, when the swivel in the boat was + instantly pointed towards them, and twelve of our most determined men + jumped into the pirogue and joined Captain Clark. This movement made an + impression on them, for the grand chief ordered the young men away from + the pirogue, and they withdrew and held a short council with the warriors. + Being unwilling to irritate them, Captain Clark then went forward, and + offered his hand to the first and second chiefs, who refused to take it. + He then turned from them and got into the pirogue; but he had not got more + than ten paces, when both the chiefs and two of the warriors waded in + after him, and he brought them on board. We then proceeded on for a mile, + and anchored off a willow island, which, from the circumstances which had + just occurred, we called Bad-humored Island.” + </p> + <p> + The policy of firmness and gentleness, which Lewis and Clark always + pursued when treating with the Indians, had its good results at this time. + What might have been a bloody encounter was averted, and next day the + Indians contritely came into camp and asked that their squaws and children + might see the white men and their boats, which would be to them a novel + sight. This was agreed to, and after the expedition had sailed up the + river and had been duly admired by a great crowd of men, women, and + children, the Tetons invited the white men to a dance. The journal adds:— + </p> + <p> + “Captains Lewis and Clark, who went on shore one after the other, were met + on landing by ten well-dressed young men, who took them up in a robe + highly decorated and carried them to a large council-house, where they + were placed on a dressed buffalo-skin by the side of the grand chief. The + hall or council-room was in the shape of three-quarters of a circle, + covered at the top and sides with skins well dressed and sewed together. + Under this shelter sat about seventy men, forming a circle round the + chief, before whom were placed a Spanish flag and the one we had given + them yesterday. This left a vacant circle of about six feet diameter, in + which the pipe of peace was raised on two forked sticks, about six or + eight inches from the ground, and under it the down of the swan was + scattered. A large fire, in which they were cooking provisions, stood + near, and in the centre about four hundred pounds of buffalo meat as a + present for us. As soon as we were seated, an old man got up, and after + approving what we had done, begged us take pity on their unfortunate + situation. To this we replied with assurances of protection. After he had + ceased, the great chief rose and delivered a harangue to the same effect; + then with great solemnity he took some of the most delicate parts of the + dog which was cooked for the festival, and held it to the flag by way of + sacrifice; this done, he held up the pipe of peace, and first pointed it + toward the heavens, then to the four quarters of the globe, then to the + earth, made a short speech, lighted the pipe, and presented it to us. We + smoked, and he again harangued his people, after which the repast was + served up to us. It consisted of the dog which they had just been cooking, + this being a great dish among the Sioux, and used on all festivals; to + this were added pemitigon, a dish made of buffalo meat, dried or jerked, + and then pounded and mixed raw with grease and a kind of ground potato, + dressed like the preparation of Indian corn called hominy, to which it is + little inferior. Of all these luxuries, which were placed before us in + platters with horn spoons, we took the pemitigon and the potato, which we + found good, but we could as yet partake but sparingly of the dog.” + </p> + <p> + The “pemitigon” mentioned here is better known as pemmican, a sort of + dried meat, which may be eaten as prepared, or pounded fine and cooked + with other articles of food. This festival concluded with a grand dance, + which at midnight wound up the affair. + </p> + <p> + As the description of these Tetons, given by Lewis and Clark, will give + the reader a good idea of the manners, customs, and personal appearance of + most of the Sioux nation, we will copy the journal in full. It is as + follows: + </p> + <p> + “The tribe which we this day saw are a part of the great Sioux nation, and + are known by the name of the Teton Okandandas: they are about two hundred + men in number, and their chief residence is on both sides of the Missouri, + between the Chayenne and Teton Rivers. In their persons they are rather + ugly and ill-made, their legs and arms being too small, their cheek-bones + high, and their eyes projecting. The females, with the same character of + form, are more handsome; and both sexes appear cheerful and sprightly; but + in our intercourse with them we discovered that they were cunning and + vicious. + </p> + <p> + “The men shave the hair off their heads, except a small tuft on the top, + which they suffer to grow, and wear in plaits over the shoulders; to this + they seem much attached, as the loss of it is the usual sacrifice at the + death of near relations. In full dress, the men of consideration wear a + hawk’s feather, or calumet feather worked with porcupine quills, and + fastened to the top of the head, from which it falls back. The face and + body are generally painted with a mixture of grease and coal. Over the + shoulders is a loose robe or mantle of buffalo skin dressed white, adorned + with porcupine quills, loosely fixed, so as to make a jingling noise when + in motion, and painted with various uncouth figures, unintelligible to us, + but to them emblematic of military exploits or any other incident: the + hair of the robe is worn next the skin in fair weather, but when it rains + the hair is put outside, and the robe is either thrown over the arm or + wrapped round the body, all of which it may cover. Under this, in the + winter season, they wear a kind of shirt resembling ours, made either of + skin or cloth, and covering the arms and body. Round the middle is fixed a + girdle of cloth, or procured dressed elk-skin, about an inch in width, and + closely tied to the body; to this is attached a piece of cloth, or + blanket, or skin, about a foot wide, which passes between the legs, and is + tucked under the girdle both before and behind. From the hip to the ankle + is covered by leggins of dressed antelope skins, with seams at the sides + two inches in width, and ornamented by little tufts of hair, the produce + of the scalps they have made in war, which are scattered down the leg. The + winter moccasins are of dressed buffalo skin, the hair being worn inward, + and soled with thick elk-skin parchment; those for summer are of deer or + elk-skin, dressed without the hair, and with soles of elk-skin. On great + occasions, or whenever they are in full dress, the young men drag after + them the entire skin of a polecat fixed to the heel of the moccasin. + Another skin of the same animal, either tucked into the girdle or carried + in the hand, serves as a pouch for their tobacco, or what the French + traders call bois roule.(1) This is the inner bark of a species of red + willow, which, being dried in the sun or over the fire, is, rubbed between + the hands and broken into small pieces, and used alone or mixed with + tobacco. The pipe is generally of red earth, the stem made of ash, about + three or four feet long, and highly decorated with feathers, hair, and + porcupine-quills. . . . + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + (1) This is bois roule, or “rolled wood,” a poor kind of + tobacco rolled with various kinds of leaves, such as the + sumach and dogwood. The Indian name is kinnikinick. +</pre> + <p> + “While on shore to-day we witnessed a quarrel between two squaws, which + appeared to be growing every moment more boisterous, when a man came + forward, at whose approach every one seemed terrified and ran. He took the + squaws and without any ceremony whipped them severely. On inquiring into + the nature of such summary justice, we learned that this man was an + officer well known to this and many other tribes. His duty is to keep the + peace, and the whole interior police of the village is confided to two or + three of these officers, who are named by the chief and remain in power + some days, at least till the chief appoints a successor. They seem to be a + sort of constable or sentinel, since they are always on the watch to keep + tranquillity during the day and guard the camp in the night. The short + duration of the office is compensated by its authority. His power is + supreme, and in the suppression of any riot or disturbance no resistance + to him is suffered; his person is sacred, and if in the execution of his + duty he strikes even a chief of the second class, he cannot be punished + for this salutary insolence. In general he accompanies the person of the + chief, and when ordered to any duty, however dangerous, it is a point of + honor rather to die than to refuse obedience. Thus, when they attempted to + stop us yesterday, the chief ordered one of these men to take possession + of the boat; he immediately put his arms around the mast, and, as we + understood, no force except the command of the chief would have induced + him to release his hold. Like the other men his body is blackened, but his + distinguishing mark is a collection of two or three raven-skins fixed to + the girdle behind the back in such a way that the tails stick out + horizontally from the body. On his head, too, is a raven-skin split into + two parts, and tied so as to let the beak project from the forehead.” + </p> + <p> + When the party of explorers subsequently made ready to leave, signs of + reluctance to have them go were apparent among the Indians. Finally, + several of the chief warriors sat on the rope that held the boat to the + shore. Irritated by this, Captain Lewis got ready to fire upon the + warriors, but, anxious to avoid bloodshed, he gave them more tobacco, + which they wanted, and then said to the chief, “You have told us that you + were a great man, and have influence; now show your influence by taking + the rope from those men, and we will then go on without further trouble.” + This appeal to the chieftain’s pride had the desired effect. The warriors + were compelled to give up the rope, which was delivered on board, and the + party set sail with a fresh breeze from the southeast. + </p> + <p> + The explorers were soon out of the country of the Teton Sioux and into + that of the Ricaras, or, as these Indians are more commonly called, the + Rickarees. + </p> + <p> + On the first day of October they passed the mouth of a river incorrectly + known as Dog River, as if corrupted from the French word chien. But the + true name is Cheyenne, from the Indians who bear that title. The stream + rises in the region called the Black Mountains by Lewis and Clark, on + account of the great quantity of dark cedar and pine trees that covered + the hills. This locality is now known as the Black Hills, in the midst of + which is the famous mining district of Deadwood. In these mountains, + according to Lewis and Clark, were to be found “great quantities of goats, + white bear, prairie cocks, and a species of animal which resembled a small + elk, with large circular horns.” By the “white bear” the reader must + understand that the grizzly bear is meant. Although this animal, which was + first discovered and described by Lewis and Clark, is commonly referred to + in the earlier pages of the journal as “white,” the error naturally came + from a desire to distinguish it from the black and the cinnamon-colored + bears. Afterwards, the journal refers to this formidable creature as the + grizzly, and again as the grisly. Certainly, the bear was a grizzled gray; + but the name “grisly,” that is to say, horrible, or frightful, fitted him + very well. The Latin name, <i>ursus horribilis</i> is not unlike one of + those of Lewis and Clark’s selection. The animals with circular curled + horns, which the explorers thought resembled a small elk, are now known as + the Rocky Mountain sheep, or bighorn. They very little resemble sheep, + however, except in color, head, horns, and feet. They are now so scarce as + to be almost extinct. They were among the discoveries of Lewis and Clark. + The prairie cock is known to western sportsmen as “prairie chicken;” it is + a species of grouse. + </p> + <p> + It was now early in October, and the weather became very cool. So great is + the elevation of those regions that, although the days might be + oppressively warm, the nights were cold and white frosts were frequent. + Crossing the Rocky Mountains at the South Pass, far south of Lewis and + Clark’s route, emigrants who suffered from intense heat during the middle + of day found water in their pails frozen solid in the morning. + </p> + <p> + The Rickarees were very curious and inquisitive regarding the white men. + But the journal adds: “The object which appeared to astonish the Indians + most was Captain Clark’s servant York, a remarkably stout, strong negro. + They had never seen a being of that color, and therefore flocked round him + to examine the extraordinary monster. By way of amusement, he told them + that he had once been a wild animal, and been caught and tamed by his + master; and to convince them, showed them feats of strength which, added + to his looks, made him more terrible than we wished him to be.” + </p> + <p> + “On October 10th,” says the journal, “the weather was fine, and as we were + desirous of assembling the whole nation at once, we despatched Mr. + Gravelines (a trader)—who, with Mr. Tabeau, another French trader, + had breakfasted with us—to invite the chiefs of the two upper + villages to a conference. They all assembled at one o’clock, and after the + usual ceremonies we addressed them in the same way in which we had already + spoken to the Ottoes and Sioux. We then made or acknowledged three chiefs, + one for each of the three villages; giving to each a flag, a medal, a red + coat, a cocked hat and feather, also some goods, paint and tobacco, which + they divided among themselves. After this the air-gun was exhibited, very + much to their astonishment, nor were they less surprised at the color and + manner of York. On our side we were equally gratified at discovering that + these Ricaras made use of no spirituous liquors of any kind, the example + of the traders who bring it to them, so far from tempting, having in fact + disgusted them. Supposing that it was as agreeable to them as to the other + Indians, we had at first offered them whiskey; but they refused it with + this sensible remark, that they were surprised that their father should + present to them a liquor which would make them fools. On another occasion + they observed to Mr. Tabeau that no man could be their friend who tried to + lead them into such follies.” + </p> + <p> + Presents were exchanged by the Indians and the white men; among the gifts + from the former was a quantity of a large, rich bean, which grows wild and + is collected by mice. The Indians hunt for the mice’s deposits and cook + and eat them. The Rickarees had a grand powwow with the white chiefs and, + after accepting presents, agreed to preserve peace with all men, red or + white. On the thirteenth of the month the explorers discovered a stream + which they named Stone-Idol Creek, on account of two stones, resembling + human figures, which adorn its banks. The creek is now known as Spring + River, and is in Campbell County, South Dakota. Concerning the stone + images the Indians gave this tradition:— + </p> + <p> + “A young man was deeply enamoured with a girl whose parents refused their + consent to the marriage. The youth went out into the fields to mourn his + misfortunes; a sympathy of feeling led the lady to the same spot, and the + faithful dog would not cease to follow his master. After wandering + together and having nothing but grapes to subsist on, they were at last + converted into stone, which, beginning at the feet, gradually invaded the + nobler parts, leaving nothing unchanged but a bunch of grapes which the + female holds in her hand to this day. Whenever the Ricaras pass these + sacred stones, they stop to make some offering of dress to propitiate + these deities. Such is the account given by the Ricara chief, which we had + no mode of examining, except that we found one part of the story very + agreeably confirmed; for on the river near where the event is said to have + occurred we found a greater abundance of fine grapes than we had yet + seen.” + </p> + <p> + While at their last camp in the country now known as South Dakota, October + 14, 1804, one of the soldiers, tried by a court-martial for mutinous + conduct, was sentenced to receive seventy-five lashes on the bare back. + The sentence was carried out then and there. The Rickaree chief, who + accompanied the party for a time, was so affected by the sight that he + cried aloud during the whole proceeding. When the reasons for the + punishment were explained to him, he acknowledged the justice of the + sentence, but said he would have punished the offender with death. His + people, he added, never whip even their children at any age whatever. + </p> + <p> + On the eighteenth of October, the party reached Cannonball River, which + rises in the Black Hills and empties in the Missouri in Morton County, + North Dakota. Its name is derived from the perfectly round, smooth, black + stones that line its bed and shores. Here they saw great numbers of + antelope and herds of buffalo, and of elk. They killed six fallow deer; + and next day they counted fifty-two herds of buffalo and three herds of + elk at one view; they also observed deer, wolves, and pelicans in large + numbers. + </p> + <p> + The ledges in the bluffs along the river often held nests of the calumet + bird, or golden eagle. These nests, which are apparently resorted to, year + after year, by the same pair of birds, are usually out of reach, except by + means of ropes by which the hunters are let down from the cliffs overhead. + The tail-feathers of the bird are twelve in number, about a foot long, and + are pure white except at the tip, which is jet-black. So highly prized are + these by the Indians that they have been known to exchange a good horse + for two feathers. + </p> + <p> + The party saw here a great many elk, deer, antelope, and buffalo, and + these last were dogged along their way by wolves who follow them to feed + upon those that die by accident, or are too weak to keep up with the herd. + Sometimes the wolves would pounce upon a calf, too young and feeble to + trot with the other buffalo; and although the mother made an effort to + save her calf, the creature was left to the hungry wolves, the herd moving + along without delay. + </p> + <p> + On the twenty-first of October, the explorers reached a creek to which the + Indians gave the name of Chisshetaw, now known as Heart River, which, + rising in Stark County, North Dakota, and running circuitously through + Morton County, empties into the Missouri opposite the city of Bismarck. At + this point the Northern Pacific Railway now crosses the Missouri; and + here, where is built the capital of North Dakota, began, in those days, a + series of Mandan villages, with the people of which the explorers were to + become tolerably well acquainted; for it had been decided that the + increasing cold of the weather would compel them to winter in this region. + But they were as yet uncertain as to the exact locality at which they + would build their camp of winter. Here they met one of the grand chiefs of + the Mandans, who was on a hunting excursion with his braves. This chief + greeted with much ceremony the Rickaree chief who accompanied the + exploring party. The Mandans and Rickarees were ancient enemies, but, + following the peaceful councils of the white men, the chiefs professed + amity and smoked together the pipe of peace. A son of the Mandan chief was + observed to have lost both of his little fingers, and when the strangers + asked how this happened, they were told that the fingers had been cut off + (according to the Mandan custom) to show the grief of the young man at the + loss of some of his relations. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0006" id="link2HCH0006"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter VI — Winter among the Mandans + </h2> + <p> + Before finally selecting the spot on which to build their winter quarters, + Lewis and Clark held councils with the chiefs of the tribes who were to be + their neighbors during the cold season. These were Mandans, Annahaways, + and Minnetarees, tribes living peacefully in the same region of country. + The principal Mandan chief was Black Cat; White Buffalo Robe Unfolded + represented the Annahaways, and the Minnetaree chief was Black Moccasin. + This last-named chief could not come to the council, but was represented + by Caltahcota, or Cherry on a Bush. The palaver being over, presents were + distributed. The account says:— + </p> + <p> + “One chief of each town was acknowledged by a gift of a flag, a medal with + the likeness of the President of the United States, a uniform coat, hat + and feather. To the second chiefs we gave a medal representing some + domestic animals and a loom for weaving; to the third chiefs, medals with + the impressions of a farmer sowing grain. A variety of other presents were + distributed, but none seemed to give them more satisfaction than an iron + corn-mill which we gave to the Mandans. . . . + </p> + <p> + “In the evening the prairie took fire, either by accident or design, and + burned with great fury, the whole plain being enveloped in flames. So + rapid was its progress that a man and a woman were burned to death before + they could reach a place of safety; another man, with his wife and child, + were much burned, and several other persons narrowly escaped destruction. + Among the rest, a boy of the half white breed escaped unhurt in the midst + of the flames; his safety was ascribed to the great medicine spirit, who + had preserved him on account of his being white. But a much more natural + cause was the presence of mind of his mother, who, seeing no hopes of + carrying off her son, threw him on the ground, and, covering him with the + fresh hide of a buffalo, escaped herself from the flames. As soon as the + fire had passed, she returned and found him untouched, the skin having + prevented the flame from reaching the grass on which he lay.” + </p> + <p> + Next day, says the journal,— + </p> + <p> + “We were visited by two persons from the lower village: one, the Big + White, the chief of the village; the other, the Chayenne, called the Big + Man: they had been hunting, and did not return yesterday early enough to + attend the council. At their request we repeated part of our speech of + yesterday, and put the medal round the neck of the chief. Captain Clark + took a pirogue and went up the river in search of a good wintering-place, + and returned after going seven miles to the lower point of an island on + the north side, about one mile in length. He found the banks on the north + side high, with coal occasionally, and the country fine on all sides; but + the want of wood, and the scarcity of game up the river, induced us to + decide on fixing ourselves lower down during the winter. In the evening + our men danced among themselves, to the great amusement of the Indians.” + </p> + <p> + It may be said here that the incident of a life saved from fire by a + raw-hide, originally related by Lewis and Clark, is the foundation of a + great many similar stories of adventures among the Indians. Usually, + however, it is a wise and well-seasoned white trapper who saves his life + by this device. + </p> + <p> + Having found a good site for their winter camp, the explorers now built a + number of huts, which they called Fort Mandan. The place was on the north + bank of the Missouri River, in what is now McLean County, North Dakota, + about sixteen hundred miles up the river from St. Louis, and seven or + eight miles below the mouth of Big Knife River. On the opposite bank, + years later, the United States built a military post known as Fort Clark, + which may be found on some of the present-day maps. The huts were built of + logs, and were arranged in two rows, four rooms in each hut, the whole + number being placed in the form of an angle, with a stockade, or picket, + across the two outer ends of the angle, in which was a gate, kept locked + at night. The roofs of the huts slanted upward from the inner side of the + rows, making the outer side of each hut eighteen feet high; and the lofts + of these were made warm and comfortable with dry grass mixed with clay, + Here they were continually visited during the winter by Indians from all + the region around. Here, too, they secured the services of an interpreter, + one Chaboneau, who continued with them to the end. This man’s wife, + Sacajawea, whose Indian name was translated “Bird Woman,” had been + captured from the Snake Indians and sold to Chaboneau, who married her. + She was “a good creature, of a mild and gentle disposition, greatly + attached to the whites.” In the expedition she proved herself more + valuable to the explorers than her husband, and Lewis and Clark always + speak of her in terms of respect and admiration. + </p> + <p> + It should not be understood that all the interpreters employed by white + men on such expeditions wholly knew the spoken language of the tribes + among whom they travelled. To some extent they relied upon the universal + language of signs to make themselves understood, and this method of + talking is known to all sorts and kinds of Indians. Thus, two fingers of + the right hand placed astraddle the wrist of the left hand signifies a man + on horseback; and the number of men on horseback is quickly added by + holding up the requisite number of fingers. Sleep is described by gently + inclining the head on the hand, and the number of “sleeps,” or nights, is + indicated by the fingers. Killed, or dead, is described by closed eyes and + a sudden fall of the head on the talker’s chest; and so on, an easily + understood gesture, with a few Indian words, being sufficient to tell a + long story very clearly. + </p> + <p> + Lewis and Clark discovered here a species of ermine before unknown to + science. They called it “a weasel, perfectly white except at the extremity + of the tail, which was black.” This animal, highly prized on account of + its pretty fur, was not scientifically described until as late as 1829. It + is a species of stoat. + </p> + <p> + The wars of some of the Indian tribes gave Lewis and Clark much trouble + and uneasiness. The Sioux were at war with the Minnetarees (Gros Ventres, + or Big Bellies); and the Assiniboins, who lived further to the north, + continually harassed the Sioux and the Mandans, treating these as the + latter did the Rickarees. The white chiefs had their hands full all winter + while trying to preserve peace among these quarrelsome and thieving + tribes, their favorite game being to steal each other’s horses. The Indian + method of caring for their horses in the cold winter was to let them shift + for themselves during the day, and to take them into their own lodges at + night where they were fed with the juicy, brittle twigs of the cottonwood + tree. With this spare fodder the animals thrive and keep their coats fine + and glossy. + </p> + <p> + Late in November, a collision between the Sioux and the Mandans became + almost certain, in consequence of the Sioux having attacked a small + hunting party of the Mandans, killing one, wounding two, and capturing + nine horses. Captain Clark mustered and armed twenty-four of his men, + crossed over into the Mandan village and offered to lead the Indians + against their enemies. The offer was declined on account of the deep snows + which prevented a march; but the incident made friends for white men, and + the tidings of it had a wholesome effect on the other tribes. + </p> + <p> + “The whole religion of the Mandans,” like that of many other savage + tribes, says the journal, “consists in the belief of one Great Spirit + presiding over their destinies. This Being must be in the nature of a good + genius, since it is associated with the healing art, and ‘great spirit’ is + synonymous with ‘great medicine,’ a name applied to everything which they + do not comprehend. Each individual selects for himself the particular + object of his devotion, which is termed his medicine, and is either some + invisible being, or more commonly some animal, which thenceforward becomes + his protector or his intercessor with the Great Spirit, to propitiate whom + every attention is lavished and every personal consideration is + sacrificed. ‘I was lately owner of seventeen horses,’ said a Mandan to us + one day, ‘but I have offered them all up to my medicine and am now poor.’ + He had in reality taken all his wealth, his horses, into the plain, and, + turning them loose, committed them to the care of his medicine and + abandoned them forever. The horses, less religious, took care of + themselves, and the pious votary travelled home on foot.” + </p> + <p> + To this day, all the Northwest Indians speak of anything that is highly + useful or influential as “great medicine.” + </p> + <p> + One cold December day, a Mandan chief invited the explorers to join them + in a grand buffalo hunt. The journal adds:— + </p> + <p> + “Captain Clark with fifteen men went out and found the Indians engaged in + killing buffalo. The hunters, mounted on horseback and armed with bows and + arrows, encircle the herd and gradually drive them into a plain or an open + place fit for the movements of horse; they then ride in among them, and + singling out a buffalo, a female being preferred, go as close as possible + and wound her with arrows till they think they have given the mortal + stroke; when they pursue another, till the quiver is exhausted. If, which + rarely happens, the wounded buffalo attacks the hunter, he evades his blow + by the agility of his horse, which is trained for the combat with great + dexterity. When they have killed the requisite number they collect their + game, and the squaws and attendants come up from the rear and skin and + dress the animals. Captain Clark killed ten buffalo, of which five only + were brought to the fort; the rest, which could not be conveyed home, + being seized by the Indians, among whom the custom is that whenever a + buffalo is found dead without an arrow or any particular mark, he is the + property of the finder; so that often a hunter secures scarcely any of the + game he kills, if the arrow happens to fall off.” + </p> + <p> + The weather now became excessively cold, the mercury often going + thirty-two degrees below zero. Notwithstanding this, however, the Indians + kept up their outdoor sports, one favorite game of which resembled + billiards. But instead of a table, the players had an open flooring, about + fifty yards long, and the balls were rings of stone, shot along the + flooring by means of sticks like billiard-cues. The white men had their + sports, and they forbade the Indians to visit them on Christmas Day, as + this was one of their “great medicine days.” The American flag was hoisted + on the fort and saluted with a volley of musketry. The men danced among + themselves; their best provisions were brought out and “the day passed,” + says the journal, “in great festivity.” + </p> + <p> + The party also celebrated New Year’s Day by similar festivities. Sixteen + of the men were given leave to go up to the first Mandan village with + their musical instruments, where they delighted the whole tribe with their + dances, one of the French voyageurs being especially applauded when he + danced on his hands with his head downwards. The dancers and musicians + were presented with several buffalo-robes and a large quantity of Indian + corn. The cold grew more intense, and on the tenth of the month the + mercury stood at forty degrees below zero. Some of the men were badly + frost-bitten, and a young Indian, about thirteen years old, who had been + lost in the snows, came into the fort. The journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “His father, who came last night to inquire after him very anxiously, had + sent him in the afternoon to the fort; he was overtaken by the night, and + was obliged to sleep on the snow with no covering except a pair of + antelope-skin moccasins and leggins, and a buffalo-robe. His feet being + frozen, we put them into cold water, and gave him every attention in our + power. About the same time an Indian who had also been missing returned to + the fort. Although his dress was very thin, and he had slept on the snow + without a fire, he had not suffered the slightest inconvenience. We have + indeed observed that these Indians support the rigors of the season in a + way which we had hitherto thought impossible. A more pleasing reflection + occurred at seeing the warm interest which the situation of these two + persons had excited in the village. The boy had been a prisoner, and + adopted from charity; yet the distress of the father proved that he felt + for him the tenderest affection. The man was a person of no distinction, + yet the whole village was full of anxiety for his safety; and, when they + came to us, borrowed a sleigh to bring them home with ease if they had + survived, or to carry their bodies if they had perished. . . . + </p> + <p> + “January 13. Nearly one half of the Mandan nation passed down the river to + hunt for several days. In these excursions, men, women, and children, with + their dogs, all leave the village together, and, after discovering a spot + convenient for the game, fix their tents; all the family bear their part + in the labor, and the game is equally divided among the families of the + tribe. When a single hunter returns from the chase with more than is + necessary for his own immediate consumption, the neighbors are entitled by + custom to a share of it: they do not, however, ask for it, but send a + squaw, who, without saying anything, sits down by the door of the lodge + till the master understands the hint, and gives her gratuitously a part + for her family.” + </p> + <p> + By the end of January, 1805, the weather had so far moderated that the + explorers thought they might cut their boats from the ice in the river and + prepare to resume their voyage; but the ice being three feet thick, they + made no progress and were obliged to give up the attempt. Their stock of + meat was low, although they had had good success when the cold was not too + severe to prevent them from hunting deer, elk, and buffalo. The Mandans, + who were careless in providing food for future supplies, also suffered for + want of meat, sometimes going for days without flesh food. Captain Clark + and eighteen men went down the river in search of game. The hunters, after + being out nine days, returned and reported that they had killed forty + deer, three buffalo, and sixteen elk. But much of the game was lean and + poor, and the wolves, who devour everything left out at night, had stolen + a quantity of the flesh. Four men, with sleds, were sent out to bring into + camp the meat, which had been secured against wolves by being stored in + pens. These men were attacked by Sioux, about one hundred in number, who + robbed them of their game and two of their three horses. Captain Lewis, + with twenty-four men, accompanied by some of the Mandans, set out in + pursuit of the marauders. They were unsuccessful, however, but, having + found a part of their game untouched, they brought it back, and this, with + other game killed after their chase of the Sioux, gave them three thousand + pounds of meat; they had killed thirty-six deer, fourteen elk, and one + wolf. + </p> + <p> + By the latter part of February, the party were able to get their boats + from the ice. These were dragged ashore, and the work of making them ready + for their next voyage was begun. As the ice in the river began to break + up, the Mandans had great sport chasing across the floating cakes of ice + the buffalo who were tempted over by the appearance of green, growing + grass on the other side. The Indians were very expert in their pursuit of + the animals, which finally slipped from their insecure footing on the + drifting ice, and were killed. + </p> + <p> + At this point, April 7, 1805, the escorting party, the voyageurs, and one + interpreter, returned down the river in their barge. This party consisted + of thirteen persons, all told, and to them were intrusted several packages + of specimens for President Jefferson, with letters and official reports. + The presents for Mr. Jefferson, according to the journal, “consisted of a + stuffed male and female antelope, with their skeletons, a weasel, three + squirrels from the Rocky Mountains, the skeleton of a prairie wolf, those + of a white and gray hare, a male and female blaireau, (badger) or + burrowing dog of the prairie, with a skeleton of the female, two burrowing + squirrels, a white weasel, and the skin of the louservia (loup-servier, or + lynx), the horns of a mountain ram, or big-horn, a pair of large elk + horns, the horns and tail of a black-tailed deer, and a variety of skins, + such as those of the red fox, white hare, marten, yellow bear, obtained + from the Sioux; also a number of articles of Indian dress, among which was + a buffalo robe representing a battle fought about eight years since + between the Sioux and Ricaras against the Mandans and Minnetarees, in + which the combatants are represented on horseback. . . . Such sketches, + rude and imperfect as they are, delineate the predominant character of the + savage nations. If they are peaceable and inoffensive, the drawings + usually consist of local scenery and their favorite diversions. If the + band are rude and ferocious, we observe tomahawks, scalping-knives, bows + and arrows, and all the engines of destruction.—A Mandan bow, and + quiver of arrows; also some Ricara tobacco-seed, and an ear of Mandan + corn: to these were added a box of plants, another of insects, and three + cases containing a burrowing squirrel, a prairie hen, and four magpies, + all alive.” . . . + </p> + <p> + The articles reached Mr. Jefferson safely and were long on view at his + Virginia residence, Monticello. They were subsequently dispersed, and some + found their way to Peale’s Museum, Philadelphia. Dr. Cones, the zealous + editor of the latest and fullest edition of Lewis and Clark’s narrative, + says that some of the specimens of natural history were probably extant in + 1893. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0007" id="link2HCH0007"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter VII — From Fort Mandan to the Yellowstone + </h2> + <p> + Up to this time, the expedition had passed through regions from which + vague reports had been brought by the few white men who, as hunters and + trappers in pursuit of fur-bearing game, had dared to venture into these + trackless wildernesses. Now they were to launch out into the mysterious + unknown, from which absolutely no tidings had ever been brought by white + men. The dim reports of Indians who had hunted through some parts of the + region were unreliable, and, as they afterwards proved, were often as + absurdly false as if they had been fairy tales. + </p> + <p> + Here, too, they parted from some of their comrades who were to return to + “the United States,” as the explorers fondly termed their native country, + although the strange lands through which they were voyaging were now a + part of the American Republic. The despatches sent to Washington by these + men contained the first official report from Lewis and Clark since their + departure from St. Louis, May 16, 1803; and they were the last word from + the explorers until their return in September, 1806. During all that long + interval, the adventurers were not heard of in the States. No wonder that + croakers declared that the little party had been cut off to perish + miserably in the pathless woods that cover the heart of the continent. + </p> + <p> + But they set out on the long journey with light hearts. In his journal, + whose spelling and punctuation are not always models for the faithful + imitation of school-boys, Captain Lewis set down this observation:— + </p> + <p> + “Our vessels consisted of six small canoes, and two large perogues. This + little fleet altho’ not quite so respectable as those of Columbus or Capt. + Cook, were still viewed by us with as much pleasure as those deservedly + famed adventurers ever beheld theirs; and I dare say with quite as much + anxiety for their safety and preservation. We were now about to penetrate + a country at least two thousand miles in width, on which the foot of + civilized man had never trodden; the good or evil it had in store for us + was for experiment yet to determine, and these little vessels contained + every article by which we were to expect to subsist or defend ourselves. + However as the state of mind in which we are, generally gives the + colouring to events, when the imagination is suffered to wander into + futurity, the picture which now presented itself to me was a most pleasing + one. Entertaining as I do the most confident hope of succeeding in a + voyage which had formed a darling project of mine for the last ten years, + I could but esteem this moment of our departure as among the most happy of + my life.” + </p> + <p> + The barge sent down the river to St. Louis was in command of Corporal + Wharfington; and with him were six private soldiers, two French voyageurs, + Joseph Gravelines (pilot and interpreter), and Brave Raven, a Ricara (or + Arikara) chief who was to be escorted to Washington to visit the + President. The party was also intrusted with sundry gifts for the + President, among them being natural history specimens, living and dead, + and a number of Indian articles which would be objects of curiosity in + Washington. + </p> + <p> + The long voyage of the main party began on the 8th of April, 1805, early + passing the mouth of the Big Knife River, one of the five considerable + streams that fall into the Missouri from the westward in this region; the + other streams are the Owl, the Grand, the Cannonball, and the Heart. The + large town of Stanton, Mercer County, North Dakota, is now situated at the + mouth of the Big Knife. The passage of the party up the river was slow, + owing to unfavorable winds; and they observed along the banks many signs + of early convulsions of nature. The earth of the bluffs was streaked with + layers of coal, or carbonized wood, and large quantities of lava and + pumice-stone were strewn around, showing traces of ancient volcanic + action. The journal of April 9 says:— + </p> + <p> + “A great number of brants (snow-geese) pass up the river; some of them are + perfectly white, except the large feathers of the first joint of the wing, + which are black, though in every other characteristic they resemble common + gray brant. We also saw but could not procure an animal (gopher) that + burrows in the ground, and is similar in every respect to the + burrowing-squirrel, except that it is only one-third of its size. This may + be the animal whose works we have often seen in the plains and prairies; + they resemble the labors of the salamander in the sand-hills of South + Carolina and Georgia, and like him the animals rarely come above ground; + they consist of a little hillock of ten or twelve pounds of loose ground, + which would seem to have been reversed from a pot, though no aperture is + seen through which it could have been thrown. On removing gently the + earth, you discover that the soil has been broken in a circle of about an + inch and a half diameter, where the ground is looser, though still no + opening is perceptible. When we stopped for dinner the squaw (Sacajawea) + went out, and after penetrating with a sharp stick the holes of the mice + (gophers), near some drift-wood, brought to us a quantity of wild + artichokes, which the mice collect and hoard in large numbers. The root is + white, of an ovate form, from one to three inches long, and generally of + the size of a man’s finger, and two, four, and sometimes six roots are + attached to a single stalk. Its flavor as well as the stalk which issues + from it resemble those of the Jerusalem artichoke, except that the latter + is much larger.” + </p> + <p> + The weather rapidly grew so warm, although this was early in April, that + the men worked half-naked during the day; and they were very much annoyed + by clouds of mosquitoes. They found that the hillsides and even the banks + of the rivers and sand-bars were covered with “a white substance, which + appears in considerable quantities on the surface of the earth, and tastes + like a mixture of common salt with Glauber’s salts.” “Many of the + streams,” the journal adds, “are so strongly impregnated with this + substance that the water has an unpleasant taste and a purgative effect.” + This is nothing more than the so-called alkali which has since become + known all over the farthest West. It abounds in the regions west of Salt + Lake Valley, whitening vast areas like snow and poisoning the waters so + that the traveller often sees the margins of the brown pools lined with + skeletons and bodies of small animals whose thirst had led them to drink + the deadly fluid. Men and animals stiffer from smaller doses of this + stuff, which is largely a sulphate of soda, and even in small quantities + is harmful to the system. + </p> + <p> + Here, on the twelfth of April, they were able to determine the exact + course of the Little Missouri, a stream about which almost nothing was + then known. Near here, too, they found the source of the Mouse River, only + a few miles from the Missouri. The river, bending to the north and then + making many eccentric curves, finally empties into Lake Winnipeg, and so + passes into the great chain of northern lakes in British America. At this + point the explorers saw great flocks of the wild Canada goose. The journal + says:— + </p> + <p> + “These geese, we observe, do not build their nests on the ground or in the + sand-bars, but in the tops of the lofty cottonwood trees. We saw some elk + and buffalo to-day, but at too great a distance to obtain any of them, + though a number of the carcasses of the latter animal are strewed along + the shore, having fallen through the ice and been swept along when the + river broke up. More bald eagles are seen on this part of the Missouri + than we have previously met with; the small sparrow-hawk, common in most + parts of the United States, is also found here. Great quantities of geese + are feeding on the prairies, and one flock of white brant, or geese with + black-tipped wings, and some gray brant with them, pass up the river; from + their flight they seem to proceed much further to the northwest. We killed + two antelopes, which were very lean, and caught last night two beavers.” + </p> + <p> + Lewis and Clark were laughed at by some very knowing people who scouted + the idea that wild geese build their nests in trees. But later travellers + have confirmed their story; the wise geese avoid foxes and other of their + four-footed enemies by fixing their homes in the tall cottonwoods. In + other words, they roost high. + </p> + <p> + The Assiniboins from the north had lately been on their spring hunting + expeditions through this region,—just above the Little Missouri,—and + game was scarce and shy. The journal, under the date of April 14, says:— + </p> + <p> + “One of the hunters shot at an otter last evening; a buffalo was killed, + and an elk, both so poor as to be almost unfit for use; two white + (grizzly) bears were also seen, and a muskrat swimming across the river. + The river continues wide and of about the same rapidity as the ordinary + current of the Ohio. The low grounds are wide, the moister parts + containing timber; the upland is extremely broken, without wood, and in + some places seems as if it had slipped down in masses of several acres in + surface. The mineral appearance of salts, coal, and sulphur, with the + burnt hill and pumice-stone, continue, and a bituminous water about the + color of strong lye, with the taste of Glauber’s salts and a slight + tincture of alum. Many geese were feeding in the prairies, and a number of + magpies, which build their nests much like those of the blackbird, in + trees, and composed of small sticks, leaves, and grass, open at the top; + the egg is of a bluish-brown color, freckled with reddish-brown spots. We + also killed a large hooting-owl resembling that of the United States + except that it was more booted and clad with feathers. On the hills are + many aromatic herbs, resembling in taste, smell, and appearance the sage, + hyssop, wormwood, southernwood, juniper, and dwarf cedar; a plant also + about two or three feet high, similar to the camphor in smell and taste; + and another plant of the same size, with a long, narrow, smooth, soft + leaf, of an agreeable smell and flavor, which is a favorite food of the + antelope, whose necks are often perfumed by rubbing against it.” + </p> + <p> + What the journalist intended to say here was that at least one of the + aromatic herbs resembled sage, hyssop, wormwood, and southernwood, and + that there were junipers and dwarf cedars. The pungent-smelling herb was + the wild sage, now celebrated in stories of adventure as the sage-brush. + It grows abundantly in the alkali country, and is browsed upon by a + species of grouse known as the sage-hen. Junipers and dwarf cedars also + grow on the hills of the alkali and sage-brush country. The sage belongs + to the Artemisia family of plants. + </p> + <p> + Four days later, the journal had this interesting entry: + </p> + <p> + “The country to-day presented the usual variety of highlands interspersed + with rich plains. In one of these we observed a species of pea bearing a + yellow flower, which is now in blossom, the leaf and stalk resembling the + common pea. It seldom rises higher than six inches, and the root is + perennial. On the rose-bushes we also saw a quantity of the hair of a + buffalo, which had become perfectly white by exposure and resembled the + wool of the sheep, except that it was much finer and more soft and silky. + A buffalo which we killed yesterday had shed his long hair, and that which + remained was about two inches long, thick, fine, and would have furnished + five pounds of wool, of which we have no doubt an excellent cloth may be + made. Our game to-day was a beaver, a deer, an elk, and some geese. . . . + </p> + <p> + “On the hills we observed considerable quantities of dwarf juniper, which + seldom grows higher than three feet. We killed in the course of the day an + elk, three geese, and a beaver. The beaver on this part of the Missouri + are in greater quantities, larger and fatter, and their fur is more + abundant and of a darker color, than any we have hitherto seen. Their + favorite food seems to be the bark of the cottonwood and willow, as we + have seen no other species of tree that has been touched by them, and + these they gnaw to the ground through a diameter of twenty inches.” + </p> + <p> + And on the twenty-first of April the journal says: + </p> + <p> + “Last night there was a hard white frost, and this morning the weather was + cold, but clear and pleasant; in the course of the day, however, it became + cloudy and the wind rose. The country is of the same description as within + the few last days. We saw immense quantities of buffalo, elk, deer, + antelopes, geese, and some swans and ducks, out of which we procured three + deer and four buffalo calves, which last are equal in flavor to the most + delicious veal; also two beaver and an otter.” + </p> + <p> + As the party advanced to the westward, following the crooked course of the + Missouri, they were very much afflicted with inflamed eyes, occasioned by + the fine, alkaline dust that blew so lightly that it sometimes floated for + miles, like clouds of smoke. The dust even penetrated the works of one of + their watches, although it was protected by tight, double cases. In these + later days, even the double windows of the railway trains do not keep out + this penetrating dust, which makes one’s skin dry and rough. + </p> + <p> + On the twenty-fifth of April, the explorers believed, by the signs which + they observed, that they must be near the great unknown river of which + they had dimly heard as rising in the rocky passes of the Great Divide and + emptying into the Missouri. Captain Lewis accordingly left the party, with + four men, and struck off across the country in search of the stream. Under + the next day’s date the journal reports the return of Captain Lewis and + says:— + </p> + <p> + “On leaving us yesterday he pursued his route along the foot of the hills, + which he descended to the distance of eight miles; from these the wide + plains watered by the Missouri and the Yellowstone spread themselves + before the eye, occasionally varied with the wood of the banks, enlivened + by the irregular windings of the two rivers, and animated by vast herds of + buffalo, deer, elk, and antelope. The confluence of the two rivers was + concealed by the wood, but the Yellowstone itself was only two miles + distant, to the south. He therefore descended the hills and camped on the + bank of the river, having killed, as he crossed the plain, four buffaloes; + the deer alone are shy and retire to the woods, but the elk, antelope, and + buffalo suffered him to approach them without alarm, and often followed + him quietly for some distance.” + </p> + <p> + The famous water-course, first described by Lewis and Clark, was named by + them the Yellow Stone River. Earlier than this, however, the French + voyageurs had called the Upper Missouri the Riviere Jaune, or Yellow + River; but it is certain that the stream, which rises in the Yellowstone + National Park, was discovered and named by Lewis and Clark. One of the + party, Private Joseph Fields, was the first white man who ever ascended + the Yellowstone for any considerable distance. Sent up the river by + Captains Lewis and Clark, he travelled about eight miles, and observed the + currents and sand-bars. Leaving the mouth of the river, the party went on + their course along the Missouri. The journal, under date of April 27, + says:— + </p> + <p> + “From the point of junction a wood occupies the space between the two + rivers, which at the distance of a mile come within two hundred and fifty + yards of each other. There a beautiful low plain commences, widening as + the rivers recede, and extends along each of them for several miles, + rising about half a mile from the Missouri into a plain twelve feet higher + than itself. The low plain is a few inches above high water mark, and + where it joins the higher plain there is a channel of sixty or seventy + yards in width, through which a part of the Missouri, when at its greatest + height, passes into the Yellowstone. . . . + </p> + <p> + “The northwest wind rose so high at eleven o’clock that we were obliged to + stop till about four in the afternoon, when we proceeded till dusk. On the + south a beautiful plain separates the two rivers, till at about six miles + there is a piece of low timbered ground, and a little above it bluffs, + where the country rises gradually from the river: the situations on the + north are more high and open. We encamped on that side, the wind, the sand + which it raised, and the rapidity of the current having prevented our + advancing more than eight miles; during the latter part of the day the + river became wider, and crowded with sand-bars. The game was in such + plenty that we killed only what was necessary for our subsistence. For + several days past we have seen great numbers of buffalo lying dead along + the shore, some of them partly devoured by the wolves. They have either + sunk through the ice during the winter, or been drowned in attempting to + cross; or else, after crossing to some high bluff, have found themselves + too much exhausted either to ascend or swim back again, and perished for + want of food: in this situation we found several small parties of them. + There are geese, too, in abundance, and more bald eagles than we have + hitherto observed; the nests of these last being always accompanied by + those of two or three magpies, who are their inseparable attendants.” + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0008" id="link2HCH0008"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter VIII — In the Haunts of Grizzlies and Buffalo + </h2> + <p> + Game, which had been somewhat scarce after leaving the Yellowstone, became + more plentiful as they passed on to the westward, still following the + winding course of the Missouri. Much of the time, baffling winds and the + crookedness of the stream made sailing impossible, and the boats were + towed by men walking along the banks. + </p> + <p> + Even this was sometimes difficult, on account of the rocky ledges that + beset the shores, and sharp stones that lay in the path of the towing + parties. On the twenty-eighth of April, however, having a favorable wind, + the party made twenty-eight miles with their sails, which was reckoned a + good day’s journey. On that day the journal records that game had again + become very abundant, deer of various kinds, elk, buffalo, antelope, bear, + beaver, and geese being numerous. The beaver, it was found, had wrought + much damage by gnawing down trees; some of these, not less than three feet + in diameter had been gnawed clean through by the beaver. On the following + day the journal has this record:— + </p> + <p> + “We proceeded early, with a moderate wind. Captain Lewis, who was on shore + with one hunter, met, about eight o’clock, two white (grizzly) bears. Of + the strength and ferocity of this animal the Indians had given us dreadful + accounts. They never attack him but in parties of six or eight persons, + and even then are often defeated with a loss of one or more of their + party. Having no weapons but bows and arrows, and the bad guns with which + the traders supply them, they are obliged to approach very near to the + bear; as no wound except through the head or heart is mortal, they + frequently fall a sacrifice if they miss their aim. He rather attacks than + avoids a man, and such is the terror which he has inspired, that the + Indians who go in quest of him paint themselves and perform all the + superstitious rites customary when they make war on a neighboring nation. + Hitherto, those bears we had seen did not appear desirous of encountering + us; but although to a skilful rifleman the danger is very much diminished, + yet the white bear is still a terrible animal. On approaching these two, + both Captain Lewis and the hunter fired, and each wounded a bear. One of + them made his escape; the other turned upon Captain Lewis and pursued him + seventy or eighty yards, but being badly wounded the bear could not run so + fast as to prevent him from reloading his piece, which he again aimed at + him, and a third shot from the hunter brought him to the ground. He was a + male, not quite full grown, and weighed about three hundred pounds. The + legs are somewhat longer than those of the black bear, and the talons and + tusks much larger and longer. Its color is a yellowish-brown; the eyes are + small, black, and piercing; the front of the fore legs near the feet is + usually black, and the fur is finer, thicker, and deeper than that of the + black bear. Add to which, it is a more furious animal, and very remarkable + for the wounds which it will bear without dying.” + </p> + <p> + Next day, the hunter killed the largest elk which they had ever seen. It + stood five feet three inches high from hoof to shoulder. Antelopes were + also numerous, but lean, and not very good for food. Of the antelope the + journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “These fleet and quick-sighted animals are generally the victims of their + curiosity. When they first see the hunters, they run with great velocity; + if he lies down on the ground, and lifts up his arm, his hat, or his foot, + they return with a light trot to look at the object, and sometimes go and + return two or three times, till they approach within reach of the rifle. + So, too, they sometimes leave their flock to go and look at the wolves, + which crouch down, and, if the antelope is frightened at first, repeat the + same manoevre, and sometimes relieve each other, till they decoy it from + the party, when they seize it. But, generally, the wolves take them as + they are crossing the rivers; for, although swift on foot, they are not + good swimmers.” + </p> + <p> + Later wayfarers across the plains were wont to beguile the antelope by + fastening a bright-colored handkerchief to a ramrod stuck in the ground. + The patient hunter was certain to be rewarded by the antelope coming + within range of his rifle; for, unless scared off by some interference, + the herd, after galloping around and around and much zigzagging, would + certainly seek to gratify their curiosity by gradually circling nearer and + nearer the strange object until a deadly shot or two sent havoc into their + ranks. + </p> + <p> + May came on cold and windy, and on the second of the month, the journal + records that snow fell to the depth of an inch, contrasting strangely with + the advanced vegetation. + </p> + <p> + “Our game to-day,” proceeds the journal, “were deer, elk, and buffalo: we + also procured three beaver. They were here quite gentle, as they have not + been hunted; but when the hunters are in pursuit, they never leave their + huts during the day. This animal we esteem a great delicacy, particularly + the tail, which, when boiled, resembles in flavor the fresh tongues and + sounds of the codfish, and is generally so large as to afford a plentiful + meal for two men. One of the hunters, in passing near an old Indian camp, + found several yards of scarlet cloth suspended on the bough of a tree, as + a sacrifice to the deity, by the Assiniboins; the custom of making these + offerings being common among that people, as, indeed, among all the + Indians on the Missouri. The air was sharp this evening; the water froze + on the oars as we rowed.” + </p> + <p> + The Assiniboin custom of sacrificing to their deity, or “great medicine,” + the article which they most value themselves, is not by any means peculiar + to that tribe, nor to the Indian race. + </p> + <p> + An unusual number of porcupines were seen along here, and these creatures + were so free from wildness that they fed on, undisturbed, while the + explorers walked around and among them. The captains named a bold and + beautiful stream, which here entered the Missouri from the north,—Porcupine + River; but modern geography calls the water-course Poplar River; at the + mouth of the river, in Montana, is now the Poplar River Indian Agency and + military post. The waters of this stream, the explorers found, were clear + and transparent,—an exception to all the streams, which, discharging + into the Missouri, give it its name of the Big Muddy. The journal adds:— + </p> + <p> + “A quarter of a mile beyond this river a creek falls in on the south, to + which, on account of its distance from the mouth of the Missouri, we gave + the name of Two-thousand-mile creek. It is a bold stream with a bed thirty + yards wide. At three and one-half miles above Porcupine River, we reached + some high timber on the north, and camped just above an old channel of the + river, which is now dry. We saw vast quantities of buffalo, elk, deer,—principally + of the long-tailed kind,—antelope, beaver, geese, ducks, brant, and + some swan. The porcupines too are numerous, and so careless and clumsy + that we can approach very near without disturbing them, as they are + feeding on the young willows. Toward evening we also found for the first + time the nest of a goose among some driftwood, all that we had hitherto + seen being on the top of a broken tree on the forks, invariably from + fifteen to twenty or more feet in height.” + </p> + <p> + “Next day,” May 4, says the journal, “we passed some old Indian + hunting-camps, one of which consisted of two large lodges, fortified with + a circular fence twenty or thirty feet in diameter, made of timber laid + horizontally, the beams overlying each other to the height of five feet, + and covered with the trunks and limbs of trees that have drifted down the + river. The lodges themselves are formed by three or more strong sticks + about the size of a man’s leg or arm and twelve feet long, which are + attached at the top by a withe of small willows, and spread out so as to + form at the base a circle of ten to fourteen feet in diameter. Against + these are placed pieces of driftwood and fallen timber, usually in three + ranges, one on the other; the interstices are covered with leaves, bark, + and straw, so as to form a conical figure about ten feet high, with a + small aperture in one side for the door. It is, however, at best a very + imperfect shelter against the inclemencies of the seasons.” + </p> + <p> + Wolves were very abundant along the route of the explorers, the most + numerous species being the common kind, now known as the coyote + (pronounced kyote), and named by science the canis latrans. These animals + are cowardly and sly creatures, of an intermediate size between the fox + and dog, very delicately formed, fleet and active. + </p> + <p> + “The ears are large, erect, and pointed; the head is long and pointed, + like that of the fox; the tail long and bushy; the hair and fur are of a + pale reddish-brown color, though much coarser than that of the fox; the + eye is of a deep sea-green color, small and piercing; the talons are + rather longer than those of the wolf of the Atlantic States, which animal, + as far as we can perceive, is not to be found on this side of the Platte. + These wolves usually associate in bands of ten or twelve, and are rarely, + if ever, seen alone, not being able, singly, to attack a deer or antelope. + They live and rear their young in burrows, which they fix near some pass + or spot much frequented by game, and sally out in a body against any + animal which they think they can overpower; but on the slightest alarm + retreat to their burrows, making a noise exactly like that of a small dog. + </p> + <p> + “A second species is lower, shorter in the legs, and thicker than the + Atlantic wolf; the color, which is not affected by the seasons, is of + every variety of shade, from a gray or blackish-brown to a cream-colored + white. They do not burrow, nor do they bark, but howl; they frequent the + woods and plains, and skulk along the skirts of the buffalo herds, in + order to attack the weary or wounded.” + </p> + <p> + Under date of May 5, the journal has an interesting story of an encounter + with a grizzly bear, which, by way of variety, is here called “brown,” + instead of “white.” It is noticeable that the explorers dwelt with much + minuteness upon the peculiar characteristics of the grizzly; this is + natural enough when we consider that they were the first white men to form + an intimate acquaintance with “Ursus horribilis.” The account says:— + </p> + <p> + “Captain Clark and one of the hunters met, this evening, the largest brown + bear we have seen. As they fired he did not attempt to attack, but fled + with a most tremendous roar; and such was his extraordinary tenacity of + life, that, although he had five balls passed through his lungs, and five + other wounds, he swam more than half across the river to a sand-bar, and + survived twenty minutes. He weighed between five and six hundred pounds at + least, and measured eight feet seven inches and a half from the nose to + the extremity of the hind feet, five feet ten inches and a half round the + breast, three feet eleven inches round the neck, one foot eleven inches + round the middle of the fore leg, and his claws five on each foot, were + four inches and three-eighths in length. This animal differs from the + common black bear in having his claws much longer and more blunt; his tail + shorter; his hair of a reddish or bay brown, longer, finer, and more + abundant; his liver, lungs, and heart much larger even in proportion to + his size, the heart, particularly, being equal to that of a large ox; and + his maw ten times larger. Besides fish and flesh, he feeds on roots and + every kind of wild fruit.” + </p> + <p> + On May 8 the party discovered the largest and most important of the + northern tributaries of the Upper Missouri. The journal thus describes the + stream:— + </p> + <p> + “Its width at the entrance is one hundred and fifty yards; on going three + miles up, Captain Lewis found it to be of the same breadth and sometimes + more; it is deep, gentle, and has a large quantity of water; its bed is + principally of mud; the banks are abrupt, about twelve feet in height, and + formed of a dark, rich loam and blue clay; the low grounds near it are + wide and fertile, and possess a considerable proportion of cottonwood and + willow. It seems to be navigable for boats and canoes; by this + circumstance, joined to its course and quantity of water, which indicates + that it passes through a large extent of country, we are led to presume + that it may approach the Saskaskawan (Saskatchewan) and afford a + communication with that river. The water has a peculiar whiteness, such as + might be produced by a tablespoonful of milk in a dish of tea, and this + circumstance induced us to call it Milk River.” + </p> + <p> + Modern geography shows that the surmise of Captain Lewis was correct. Some + of the tributaries of Milk River (the Indian name of which signifies “The + River that Scolds at all Others”) have their rise near St. Mary’s River, + which is one of the tributaries of the Saskatchewan, in British America. + </p> + <p> + The explorers were surprised to find the bed of a dry river, as deep and + as wide as the Missouri itself, about fifteen miles above Milk River. + Although it had every appearance of a water-course, it did not discharge a + drop of water. Their journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “It passes through a wide valley without timber; the surrounding country + consists of waving low hills, interspersed with some handsome level + plains; the banks are abrupt, and consist of a black or yellow clay, or of + a rich sandy loam; though they do not rise more than six or eight feet + above the bed, they exhibit no appearance of being overflowed; the bed is + entirely composed of a light brown sand, the particles of which, like + those of the Missouri, are extremely fine. Like the dry rivers we passed + before, this seemed to have discharged its waters recently, but the + watermark indicated that its greatest depth had not been more than two + feet. This stream, if it deserve the name, we called Bigdry (Big Dry) + River.” + </p> + <p> + And Big Dry it remains on the maps unto this day. In this region the party + recorded this observation:— + </p> + <p> + “The game is now in great quantities, particularly the elk and buffalo, + which last is so gentle that the men are obliged to drive them out of the + way with sticks and stones. The ravages of the beaver are very apparent; + in one place the timber was entirely prostrated for a space of three acres + in front on the river and one in depth, and great part of it removed, + though the trees were in large quantities, and some of them as thick as + the body of a man.” + </p> + <p> + Yet so great have been the ravages of man among these gentle creatures, + that elk are now very rarely found in the region, and the buffalo have + almost utterly disappeared from the face of the earth. Just after the + opening of the Northern Pacific Railway, in 1883, a band of sixty + buffaloes were heard of, far to the southward of Bismarck, and a party was + organized to hunt them. The <i>bold</i> hunters afterwards boasted that + they killed every one of this little band of survivors of their race. + </p> + <p> + The men were now (in the middle of May) greatly troubled with boils, + abscesses, and inflamed eyes, caused by the poison of the alkali that + covered much of the ground and corrupted the water. Here is an entry in + the journal of May 11:— + </p> + <p> + “About five in the afternoon one of our men (Bratton), who had been + afflicted with boils and suffered to walk on shore, came running to the + boats with loud cries, and every symptom of terror and distress. For some + time after we had taken him on board he was so much out of breath as to be + unable to describe the cause of his anxiety; but he at length told us that + about a mile and a half below he had shot a brown bear, which immediately + turned and was in close pursuit of him; but the bear being badly wounded + could not overtake him. Captain Lewis, with seven men, immediately went in + search of him; having found his track they followed him by the blood for a + mile, found him concealed in some thick brushwood, and shot him with two + balls through the skull. Though somewhat smaller than that killed a few + days ago, he was a monstrous animal, and a most terrible enemy. Our man + had shot him through the centre of the lungs; yet he had pursued him + furiously for half a mile, then returned more than twice that distance, + and with his talons prepared himself a bed in the earth two feet deep and + five feet long; he was perfectly alive when they found him, which was at + least two hours after he had received the wound. The wonderful power of + life which these animals possess renders them dreadful; their very track + in the mud or sand, which we have sometimes found eleven inches long and + seven and one-fourth wide, exclusive of the talons, is alarming; and we + had rather encounter two Indians than meet a single brown bear. There is + no chance of killing them by a single shot unless the ball goes through + the brain, and this is very difficult on account of two large muscles + which cover the side of the forehead and the sharp projection of the + centre of the frontal bone, which is also thick. + </p> + <p> + “Our camp was on the south, at the distance of sixteen miles from that of + last night. The fleece and skin of the bear were a heavy burden for two + men, and the oil amounted to eight gallons.” + </p> + <p> + The name of the badly-scared Bratton was bestowed upon a creek which + discharges into the Missouri near the scene of this encounter. Game + continued to be very abundant. On the fourteenth, according to the + journal, the hunters were hunted, to their great discomfiture. The account + says:— + </p> + <p> + “Toward evening the men in the hindmost canoes discovered a large brown + (grizzly) bear lying in the open grounds, about three hundred paces from + the river. Six of them, all good hunters, immediately went to attack him, + and concealing themselves by a small eminence came unperceived within + forty paces of him. Four of the hunters now fired, and each lodged a ball + in his body, two of them directly through the lungs. The furious animal + sprang up and ran open-mouthed upon them. + </p> + <p> + “As he came near, the two hunters who had reserved their fire gave him two + wounds, one of which, breaking his shoulder, retarded his motion for a + moment; but before they could reload he was so near that they were obliged + to run to the river, and before they had reached it he had almost + overtaken them. Two jumped into the canoe; the other four separated, and, + concealing themselves in the willows, fired as fast as they could reload. + They struck him several times, but, instead of weakening the monster, each + shot seemed only to direct him towards the hunters, till at last he + pursued two of them so closely that they threw aside their guns and + pouches, and jumped down a perpendicular bank of twenty feet into the + river: the bear sprang after them, and was within a few feet of the + hindmost, when one of the hunters on shore shot him in the head, and + finally killed him. They dragged him to the shore, and found that eight + balls had passed through him in different directions. The bear was old, + and the meat tough, so that they took the skin only, and rejoined us at + camp, where we had been as much terrified by an accident of a different + kind. + </p> + <p> + “This was the narrow escape of one of our canoes, containing all our + papers, instruments, medicine, and almost every article indispensable for + the success of our enterprise. The canoe being under sail, a sudden squall + of wind struck her obliquely and turned her considerably. The man at the + helm, who was unluckily the worst steersman of the party, became alarmed, + and, instead of putting her before the wind, luffed her up into it. The + wind was so high that it forced the brace of the square-sail out of the + hand of the man who was attending it, and instantly upset the canoe, which + would have been turned bottom upward but for the resistance made by the + awning. Such was the confusion on board, and the waves ran so high, that + it was half a minute before she righted, and then nearly full of water, + but by bailing her out she was kept from sinking until they rowed ashore. + Besides the loss of the lives of three men, who, not being able to swim, + would probably have perished, we should have been deprived of nearly + everything necessary for our purposes, at a distance of between two and + three thousand miles from any place where we could supply the deficiency.” + </p> + <p> + Fortunately, there was no great loss from this accident, which was caused + by the clumsiness and timidity of the steersman, Chaboneau. Captain + Lewis’s account of the incident records that the conduct of Chaboneau’s + wife, Sacajawea, was better than that of her cowardly husband. He says:— + </p> + <p> + “The Indian woman, to whom I ascribe equal fortitude and resolution with + any person on board at the time of the accident, caught and preserved most + of the light articles which were washed overboard.” + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0009" id="link2HCH0009"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter IX — In the Solitudes of the Upper Missouri + </h2> + <p> + Under date of May 17, the journal of the party has the following + interesting entries:— + </p> + <p> + “We set out early and proceeded on very well; the banks being firm and the + shore bold, we were enabled to use the towline, which, whenever the banks + will permit it, is the safest and most expeditious mode of ascending the + river, except under sail with a steady breeze. At the distance of ten and + one-half miles we came to the mouth of a small creek on the south, below + which the hills approach the river, and continue near it during the day. + Three miles further is a large creek on the north; and again, six and + three-quarters miles beyond this, is another large creek, to the south; + both containing a small quantity of running water, of a brackish taste. + The last we called Rattlesnake Creek, from our seeing that animal near it. + Although no timber can be observed on it from the Missouri, it throws out + large quantities of driftwood, among which were some pieces of coal + brought down by the stream. . . . + </p> + <p> + “The game is in great quantities, but the buffalo are not so numerous as + they were some days ago; two rattlesnakes were seen to-day, and one of + them was killed. It resembles those of the Middle Atlantic States, being + about thirty inches long, of a yellowish brown on the back and sides, + variegated with a row of oval dark brown spots lying transversely on the + back from the neck to the tail, and two other rows of circular spots of + the same color on the sides along the edge of the scuta; there are one + hundred and seventy-six scuta on the belly, and seventeen on the tail.” + </p> + <p> + Two days later, the journal records that one of the party killed a grizzly + bear, “which, though shot through the heart, ran at his usual pace nearly + a quarter of a mile before he fell.” + </p> + <p> + The mouth of the Musselshell River, which was one of the notable points + that marked another stage in the journey, was reached on the twentieth of + May. This stream empties into the Missouri two thousand two hundred and + seventy miles above its mouth, and is still known by the name given it by + its discoverers. The journal says: + </p> + <p> + “It is one hundred and ten yards wide, and contains more water than + streams of that size usually do in this country; its current is by no + means rapid, and there is every appearance of its being susceptible of + navigation by canoes for a considerable distance. Its bed is chiefly + formed of coarse sand and gravel, with an occasional mixture of black mud; + the banks are abrupt and nearly twelve feet high, so that they are secure + from being overflowed; the water is of a greenish-yellow cast, and much + more transparent than that of the Missouri, which itself, though clearer + than below, still retains its whitish hue and a portion of its sediment. + Opposite the point of junction the current of the Missouri is gentle, and + two hundred and twenty-two yards in width; the bed is principally of mud, + the little sand remaining being wholly confined to the points, and the + water is still too deep to use the setting-pole. + </p> + <p> + “If this be, as we suppose, the Musselshell, our Indian information is + that it rises in the first chain of the Rocky mountains not far from the + sources of the Yellowstone, whence in its course to this place it waters a + high broken country, well timbered, particularly on its borders, and + interspersed with handsome fertile plains and meadows. We have reason, + however, to believe, from their giving a similar account of the timber + where we now are, that the timber of which they speak is similar to that + which we have seen for a few days past, which consists of nothing more + than a few straggling small pines and dwarf cedars on the summits of the + hills, nine-tenths of the ground being totally destitute of wood, and + covered with short grass, aromatic herbs, and an immense quantity of + prickly-pear; though the party who explored it for eight miles represented + the low grounds on the river to be well supplied with cottonwood of a + tolerable size, and of an excellent soil. They also report that the + country is broken and irregular, like that near our camp; and that about + five miles up, a handsome river, about fifty yards wide, which we named + after Chaboneau’s wife, Sacajawea’s or the Bird-woman’s River, discharges + into the Musselshell on the north or upper side.” + </p> + <p> + Later explorations have shown that the Musselshell rises in the Little + Belt Mountains, considerably to the north of the sources of the + Yellowstone. Modern geography has also taken from the good Sacajawea the + honor of having her name bestowed on one of the branches of the + Musselshell. The stream once named for her is now known as Crooked Creek: + it joins the river near its mouth, in the central portion of Montana. The + journal, under date of May 22, has this entry:— + </p> + <p> + “The river (the Missouri) continues about two hundred and fifty yards + wide, with fewer sand-bars, and the current more gentle and regular. Game + is no longer in such abundance since leaving the Musselshell. We have + caught very few fish on this side of the Mandans, and these were the white + catfish, of two to five pounds. We killed a deer and a bear. We have not + seen in this quarter the black bear, common in the United States and on + the lower parts of the Missouri, nor have we discerned any of their + tracks. They may easily be distinguished by the shortness of the talons + from the brown, grizzly, or white bear, all of which seem to be of the + same species, which assumes those colors at different seasons of the year. + We halted earlier than usual, and camped on the north, in a point of + woods, at the distance of sixteen and one half miles (thus past the site + of Fort Hawley, on the south).” + </p> + <p> + Notwithstanding the advance of the season, the weather in those great + altitudes grew more and more cold. Under date of May 23, the journal + records the fact that ice appeared along the edges of the river, and water + froze upon their oars. But notwithstanding the coolness of the nights and + mornings, mosquitoes were very troublesome. + </p> + <p> + The explorers judged that the cold was somewhat unusual for that locality, + inasmuch as the cottonwood trees lost their leaves by the frost, showing + that vegetation, generally well suited to the temperature of its country, + or habitat, had been caught by an unusual nip of the frost. The explorers + noticed that the air of those highlands was so pure and clear that objects + appeared to be much nearer than they really were. A man who was sent out + to explore the country attempted to reach a ridge (now known as the Little + Rocky Mountains), apparently about fifteen miles from the river. He + travelled about ten miles, but finding himself not halfway to the object + of his search, he returned without reaching it. + </p> + <p> + The party was now just westward of the site of the present town of + Carroll, Montana, on the Missouri. Their journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “The low grounds are narrow and without timber; the country is high and + broken; a large portion of black rock and brown sandy rock appears in the + face of the hills, the tops of which are covered with scattered pine, + spruce, and dwarf cedar; the soil is generally poor, sandy near the tops + of the hills, and nowhere producing much grass, the low grounds being + covered with little else than the hyssop, or southernwood, and the + pulpy-leaved thorn. Game is more scarce, particularly beaver, of which we + have seen but few for several days, and the abundance or scarcity of which + seems to depend on the greater or less quantity of timber. At twenty-four + and one-half miles we reached a point of woodland on the south, where we + observed that the trees had no leaves, and camped for the night.” + </p> + <p> + The “hyssop, or southernwood,” the reader now knows to be the wild sage, + or sage-brush. The “pulpy-leaved thorn” mentioned in the journal is the + greasewood; and both of these shrubs flourish in the poverty-stricken, + sandy, alkaline soil of the far West and Northwest. The woody fibre of + these furnished the only fuel available for early overland emigrants to + the Pacific. + </p> + <p> + The character of this country now changed considerably as the explorers + turned to the northward, in their crooked course, with the river. On the + twenty-fifth of May the journal records this:— + </p> + <p> + “The country on each side is high, broken, and rocky; the rock being + either a soft brown sandstone, covered with a thin stratum of limestone, + or else a hard, black, rugged granite, both usually in horizontal strata, + and the sand-rock overlaying the other. Salts and quartz, as well as some + coal and pumice-stone, still appear. The bars of the river are composed + principally of gravel; the river low grounds are narrow, and afford + scarcely any timber; nor is there much pine on the hills. The buffalo have + now become scarce; we saw a polecat (skunk) this evening, which was the + first for several days; in the course of the day we also saw several herds + of the bighorned animals among the steep cliffs on the north, and killed + several of them.” + </p> + <p> + The bighorned animals, the first of which were killed here, were sometimes + called “Rocky Mountain sheep.” But sheep they were not, bearing hair and + not wool. As we have said, they are now more commonly known as bighorns. + </p> + <p> + The patience of the explorers was rewarded, on Sunday, May 26, 1806, by + their first view of the Rocky Mountains. Here is the journal’s record on + that date:— + </p> + <p> + “It was here (Cow Creek, Mont.) that, after ascending the highest summit + of the hills on the north side of the river, Captain Lewis first caught a + distant view of the Rock mountains—the object of all our hopes, and + the reward of all our ambition. On both sides of the river, and at no + great distance from it, the mountains followed its course. Above these at + the distance of fifty miles from us, an irregular range of mountains + spread from west to northwest from his position. To the north of these, a + few elevated points, the most remarkable of which bore N. 65'0 W., + appeared above the horizon; and as the sun shone on the snows of their + summits, he obtained a clear and satisfactory view of those mountains + which close on the Missouri the passage to the Pacific.” + </p> + <p> + As they continued to ascend the Missouri they found themselves confronted + by many considerable rapids which sometimes delayed their progress. They + also set forth this observation: “The only animals we have observed are + the elk, the bighorn, and the hare common to this country.” Wayfarers + across the plains now call this hare the jack-rabbit. The river soon + became very rapid with a marked descent, indicating their nearness to its + mountain sources. The journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “Its general width is about two hundred yards; the shoals are more + frequent, and the rocky points at the mouths of the gullies more + troublesome to pass. Great quantities of stone lie in the river and on its + bank, and seem to have fallen down as the rain washed away the clay and + sand in which they were imbedded. The water is bordered by high, rugged + bluffs, composed of irregular but horizontal strata of yellow and brown or + black clay, brown and yellowish-white sand, soft yellowish-white + sandstone, and hard dark brown freestone; also, large round kidney-formed + irregular separate masses of a hard black ironstone, imbedded in the clay + and sand; some coal or carbonated wood also makes its appearance in the + cliffs, as do its usual attendants, the pumice-stone and burnt earth. The + salts and quartz are less abundant, and, generally speaking, the country + is, if possible, more rugged and barren than that we passed yesterday; the + only growth of the hills being a few pine, spruce, and dwarf cedar, + interspersed with an occasional contrast, once in the course of some + miles, of several acres of level ground, which supply a scanty subsistence + for a few little cottonwoods.” + </p> + <p> + But, a few days later, the party passed out of this inhospitable region, + and, after passing a stream which they named Thompson’s (now Birch) Creek, + after one of their men, they were glad to make this entry in their diary: + </p> + <p> + “Here the country assumed a totally different aspect: the hills retired on + both sides from the river, which spreads to more than three times its + former size, and is filled with a number of small handsome islands covered + with cottonwood. The low grounds on its banks are again wide, fertile, and + enriched with trees: those on the north are particularly wide, the hills + being comparatively low, and opening into three large valleys, which + extend themselves for a considerable distance towards the north. These + appearances of vegetation are delightful after the dreary hills among + which we have passed; and we have now to congratulate ourselves at having + escaped from the last ridges of the Black Mountains. On leaving Thompson’s + Creek we passed two small islands, and at twenty-three miles’ distance + encamped among some timber; on the north, opposite to a small creek, which + we named Bull Creek. The bighorn are in great quantities, and must bring + forth their young at a very early season, as they are now half grown. One + of the party saw a large bear also; but, being at a distance from the + river, and having no timber to conceal him, he would not venture to fire.” + </p> + <p> + A curious adventure happened on the twenty-eighth, of which the journal, + next day, makes this mention:— + </p> + <p> + “Last night we were alarmed by a new sort of enemy. A buffalo swam over + from the opposite side, and to the spot where lay one of our canoes, over + which he clambered to the shore: then, taking fright, he ran full speed up + the bank towards our fires, and passed within eighteen inches of the heads + of some of the men before the sentinel could make him change his course. + Still more alarmed, he ran down between four fires, and within a few + inches of the heads of a second row of the men, and would have broken into + our lodge if the barking of the dog had not stopped him. He suddenly + turned to the right, and was out of sight in a moment, leaving us all in + confusion, every one seizing his rifle and inquiring the cause of the + alarm. On learning what had happened, we had to rejoice at suffering no + more injury than some damage to the guns that were in the canoe which the + buffalo crossed. . . . + </p> + <p> + “We passed an island and two sand-bars, and at the distance of two and a + half miles came to a handsome river, which discharges itself on the South, + and which we ascended to the distance of a mile and a half: we called it + Judith’s River. It rises in the Rocky Mountains, in about the same place + with the Musselshell, and near the Yellowstone River. Its entrance is one + hundred yards wide from one bank to the other, the water occupying about + seventy-five yards, and being in greater quantity than that of the + Musselshell River. . . . There were great numbers of the argalea, or + bighorned animals, in the high country through which it passes, and of + beaver in its waters. Just above the entrance of it we saw the ashes of + the fires of one hundred and twenty-six lodges, which appeared to have + been deserted about twelve or fifteen days.” + </p> + <p> + Leaving Judith’s River, named for a sweet Virginia lass, the explorers + sailed, or were towed, seventeen miles up the river, where they camped at + the mouth of a bold, running river to which they gave the name of + Slaughter River. The stream is now known as the Arrow; the appropriateness + of the title conferred on the stream by Lewis and Clark appears from the + story which they tell of their experience just below “Slaughter River,” as + follows: + </p> + <p> + “On the north we passed a precipice about one hundred and twenty feet + high, under which lay scattered the fragments of at least one hundred + carcasses of buffaloes, although the water which had washed away the lower + part of the hill must have carried off many of the dead. These buffaloes + had been chased down the precipice in a way very common on the Missouri, + by which vast herds are destroyed in a moment. The mode of hunting is to + select one of the most active and fleet young men, who is disguised by a + buffalo-skin round his body; the skin of the head with the ears and horns + being fastened on his own head in such a way as to deceive the buffalo. + Thus dressed, he fixes himself at a convenient distance between a herd of + buffalo and any of the river precipices, which sometimes extend for some + miles. His companions in the mean time get in the rear and side of the + herd, and at a given signal show themselves and advance toward the + buffaloes. These instantly take the alarm, and finding the hunters beside + them, they run toward the disguised Indian or decoy, who leads them on at + full speed toward the river; when, suddenly securing himself in some + crevice of the cliff which he had previously fixed on, the herd is left on + the brink of the precipice. It is then in vain for the foremost buffaloes + to retreat or even to stop; they are pressed on by the hindmost rank, + which, seeing no danger but from the hunters, goad on those before them + till the whole are precipitated, and the shore is strewn with their dead + bodies. Sometimes, in this perilous seduction, the Indian is himself + either trodden under foot by the rapid movements of the buffaloes, or + missing his footing in the cliff is urged down the precipice by the + falling herd. The Indians then select as much meat as they wish; the rest + is abandoned to the wolves, and creates a most dreadful stench. The wolves + which had been feasting on these carcasses were very fat, and so gentle + that one of them was killed with an espontoon.” (1) + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + (1) A short spear. +</pre> + <p> + The dryness and purity of the air roused the admiration of the explorers, + who noticed that the woodwork of the cases of their instruments shrank, + and the joints opened, although the wood was old and perfectly seasoned. A + tablespoonful of water, exposed to the air in an open saucer, would wholly + evaporate in thirty-six hours, when the thermometer did not mark higher + than the “Temperate” point at the warmest hour of the day. Contrary to + their expectations, they had not yet met with any Indians, although they + saw many signs of their having recently been in that vicinity. The journal + says: + </p> + <p> + “In the course of the day (May 30) we passed several encampments of + Indians, the most recent of which seemed to have been evacuated about five + weeks since; and, from the several apparent dates, we supposed that they + were formed by a band of about one hundred lodges, who were travelling + slowly up the river. Although no part of the Missouri from the Minnetarees + to this place exhibits signs of permanent settlements, yet none seem + exempt from the transient visits of hunting-parties. We know that the + Minnetarees of the Missouri extend their excursions on the south side of + the river as high as the Yellowstone, and the Assiniboins visit the + northern side, most probably as high as Porcupine River. All the lodges + between that place and the Rocky Mountains we supposed to belong to the + Minnetarees of Fort de Prairie, who live on the south fork of the + Saskashawan.” + </p> + <p> + The party now entered upon some of the natural wonders of the West, which + have since become famous. Their journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “These hills and river-cliffs exhibit a most extraordinary and romantic + appearance. They rise in most places nearly perpendicular from the water, + to the height of between two hundred and three hundred feet, and are + formed of very white sandstone, so soft as to yield readily to the + impression of water, in the upper part of which lie imbedded two or three + thin horizontal strata of white freestone, insensible to the rain; on the + top is a dark rich loam, which forms a gradually ascending plain, from a + mile to a mile and a half in extent, when the hills again rise abruptly to + the height of about three hundred feet more. In trickling down the cliffs, + the water has worn the soft sandstone into a thousand grotesque figures, + among which, with a little fancy, may be discerned elegant ranges of + freestone buildings, with columns variously sculptured, and supporting + long and elegant galleries, while the parapets are adorned with statuary. + On a nearer approach they represent every form of elegant ruins—columns, + some with pedestals and capitals entire, others mutilated and prostrate, + and some rising pyramidally over each other till they terminate in a sharp + point. These are varied by niches, alcoves, and the customary appearances + of desolated magnificence. The illusion is increased by the number of + martins, which have built their globular nests in the niches, and hover + over these columns, as in our country they are accustomed to frequent + large stone structures. As we advance there seems no end to the visionary + enchantment which surrounds us. + </p> + <p> + “In the midst of this fantastic scenery are vast ranges of walls, which + seem the productions of art, so regular is the workmanship. They rise + perpendicularly from the river, sometimes to the height of one hundred + feet, varying in thickness from one to twelve feet, being as broad at the + top as below. The stones of which they are formed are black, thick, + durable, and composed of a large portion of earth, intermixed and cemented + with a small quantity of sand and a considerable proportion of talk (talc) + or quartz. These stones are almost invariably regular parallelopipeds of + unequal sizes in the wall, but equally deep and laid regularly in ranges + over each other like bricks, each breaking and covering the interstice of + the two on which it rests; but though the perpendicular interstice be + destroyed, the horizontal one extends entirely through the whole work. The + stones are proportioned to the thickness of the wall in which they are + employed, being largest in the thickest walls. The thinner walls are + composed of a single depth of the parallelopiped, while the thicker ones + consist of two or more depths. These walls pass the river at several + places, rising from the water’s edge much above the sandstone bluffs, + which they seem to penetrate; thence they cross in a straight line, on + either side of the river, the plains, over which they tower to the height + of from ten to seventy feet, until they lose themselves in the second + range of hills. Sometimes they run parallel in several ranges near to each + other, sometimes intersect each other at right angles, and have the + appearance of walls of ancient houses or gardens.” + </p> + <p> + The wall-like, canyon formations were charted by Lewis and Clark as “The + Stone Walls.” Their fantastic outlines have been admired and described by + modern tourists, and some of them have been named “Cathedral Rocks,” + “Citadel Rock,” “Hole in the Wall,” and so on. + </p> + <p> + Passing out of this wonderful region, the expedition entered upon a more + level country, here and there broken by bluffy formations which extended + along the river, occasionally interspersed with low hills. Their journal + says: + </p> + <p> + “In the plains near the river are the choke-cherry, yellow and red currant + bushes, as well as the wild rose and prickly pear, both of which are now + in bloom. From the tops of the river-hills, which are lower than usual, we + enjoyed a delightful view of the rich, fertile plains on both sides, in + many places extending from the river-cliffs to a great distance back. In + these plains we meet, occasionally, large banks of pure sand, which were + driven apparently by the southwest winds and there deposited. The plains + are more fertile some distance from the river than near its banks, where + the surface of the earth is very generally strewed with small pebbles, + which appear to be smoothed and worn by the agitation of the waters with + which they were, no doubt, once covered.” + </p> + <p> + Under date of June 2d, the journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “The current of the river is strong but regular, the timber increases in + quantity, the low grounds become more level and extensive, and the bluffs + are lower than before. As the game is very abundant, we think it necessary + to begin a collection of hides for the purpose of making a leathern boat, + which we intend constructing shortly. The hunters, who were out the + greater part of the day, brought in six elk, two buffalo, two mule-deer, + and a bear. This last animal had nearly cost us the lives of two of our + hunters, who were together when he attacked them. One of them narrowly + escaped being caught, and the other, after running a considerable + distance, concealed himself in some thick bushes, and, while the bear was + in quick pursuit of his hiding-place, his companion came up, and + fortunately shot the animal through the head.” + </p> + <p> + Here the party came to the mouth of a large river which entered the + Missouri from the northwest, at the site of the latter-day town of Ophir, + Montana. This stream they named Maria’s River, in honor of another + Virginia damsel. So large and important in appearance was Maria’s River + that the explorers were not certain which was the main stream, that which + came in from the north, or that which, flowing here in a general course + from southwest to northeast, was really the true Missouri. The journal + says: + </p> + <p> + “It now became an interesting question, which of these two streams is what + the Minnetarees call Ahmateahza, or Missouri, which they describe as + approaching very near to the Columbia. On our right decision much of the + fate of the expedition depends; since if, after ascending to the Rocky + Mountains or beyond them, we should find that the river we were following + did not come near the Columbia, and be obliged to return, we should not + only lose the travelling season, two months of which have already elapsed, + but probably dishearten the men so much as to induce them either to + abandon the enterprise, or yield us a cold obedience, instead of the warm + and zealous support which they have hitherto afforded us. We determined, + therefore, to examine well before we decided on our future course. For + this purpose we despatched two canoes with three men up each of the + streams, with orders to ascertain the width, depth, and rapidity of the + current, so as to judge of their comparative bodies of water. At the same + time parties were sent out by land to penetrate the country, and discover + from the rising grounds, if possible, the distant bearings of the two + rivers; and all were directed to return toward evening. . . .” + </p> + <p> + Both parties returned without bringing any information that would settle + the point. Which was the true Missouri still remained uncertain. Under + these circumstances, it became necessary that there should be a more + thorough exploration, and the next morning Captains Lewis and Clark set + out at the head of two separate parties, the former to examine the north, + and the latter the south fork. In his progress Captain Lewis and his party + were frequently obliged to quit the course of the river and cross the + plains and hills, but he did not lose sight of its general direction, and + carefully took the bearings of the distant mountains. On the morning of + the third day he became convinced that this river pursued a course too far + north for his contemplated route to the Pacific, and he accordingly + determined to return, but judged it advisable to wait till noon, that he + might obtain a meridian altitude. In this, however, he was disappointed, + owing to the state of the weather. Much rain had fallen, and their return + was somewhat difficult, and not unattended with danger, as the following + incident, which occurred on June 7th, will show: + </p> + <p> + “In passing along the side of a bluff at a narrow pass thirty yards in + length, Captain Lewis slipped, and, but for a fortunate recovery by means + of his spontoon, would have been precipitated into the river over a + precipice of about ninety feet. He had just reached a spot where, by the + assistance of his spontoon, he could stand with tolerable safety, when he + heard a voice behind him cry out, ‘Good God, captain, what shall I do?’ He + turned instantly, and found it was Windsor, who had lost his foothold + about the middle of the narrow pass, and had slipped down to the very + verge of the precipice, where he lay on his belly, with his right arm and + leg over it, while with the other leg and arm he was with difficulty + holding on, to keep himself from being dashed to pieces below. His + dreadful situation was instantly perceived by Captain Lewis, who, stifling + his alarm, calmly told him that he was in no danger; that he should take + his knife out of his belt with his right hand, and dig a hole in the side + of the bluff to receive his right foot. With great presence of mind he did + this, and then raised himself on his knees. Captain Lewis then told him to + take off his moccasins and come forward on his hands and knees, holding + the knife in one hand and his rifle in the other. He immediately crawled + in this way till he came to a secure spot. The men who had not attempted + this passage were ordered to return and wade the river at the foot of the + bluff, where they found the water breast-high. This adventure taught them + the danger of crossing the slippery heights of the river; but as the + plains were intersected by deep ravines, almost as difficult to pass, they + continued down the river, sometimes in the mud of the low grounds, + sometimes up to their arms in the water; and when it became too deep to + wade, they cut footholds with their knives in the sides of the banks. In + this way they travelled through the rain, mud, and water, and having made + only eighteen miles during the whole day, camped in an old Indian lodge of + sticks, which afforded them a dry shelter. Here they cooked part of six + deer they had killed in the course of their walk, and having eaten the + only morsel they had tasted during the whole day, slept comfortably on + some willow-boughs.” + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0010" id="link2HCH0010"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter X — To the Great Falls of the Missouri + </h2> + <p> + Next day, June 8, the Lewis party returned to the main body of the + expedition. They reported that timber was scarce along the river, except + in the lowlands, where there were pretty groves and thickets. These trees, + the journal says, were the haunts of innumerable birds, which, as the sun + rose, sung delightfully:— + </p> + <p> + “Among these birds they distinguished the brown thrush, robin, + turtle-dove, linnet, gold-finch, large and small blackbird, wren, and some + others. As they came along, the whole party were of opinion that this + river was the true Missouri; but Captain Lewis, being fully persuaded that + it was neither the main stream, nor that which it would be advisable to + ascend, gave it the name of Maria’s River. After travelling all day they + reached camp about five o’clock in the afternoon, and found Captain Clark + and the party very anxious for their safety. As they had stayed two days + longer than had been expected, and as Captain Clark had returned at the + appointed time, it was feared that they had met with some accident.” + </p> + <p> + As we now know, the stream that came in from the north was that which is + still called Maria’s (or Marais) River, and the so-called branch from the + southwest was the Missouri River. Lewis and Clark, however, were in the + dark as to the relations of the two streams. Which was the parent? Which + was the branch? After pondering all the evidence that could be collected + to bear on the important question, the two captains agreed that the + southern stream was the true Missouri, and the northern stream was an + important branch. The journal says: + </p> + <p> + “These observations, which satisfied our minds completely, we communicated + to the party; but every one of them was of a contrary opinion. Much of + their belief depended on Crusatte, an experienced waterman on the + Missouri, who gave it as his decided judgment that the north fork was the + genuine Missouri. The men, therefore, mentioned that, although they would + most cheerfully follow us wherever we should direct, yet they were afraid + that the south fork would soon terminate in the Rocky Mountains, and leave + us at a great distance from the Columbia. In order that nothing might be + omitted which could prevent our falling into an error, it was agreed that + one of us should ascend the southern branch by land, until we reached + either the falls or the mountains. In the meantime, in order to lighten + our burdens as much as possible, we determined to deposit here one of the + pirogues, and all the heavy baggage which we could possibly spare, as well + as some provision, salt, powder, and tools. This would at once lighten the + other boats, and give them the crew which had been employed on board the + pirogue.” + </p> + <p> + On the tenth of June, the weather being fair and pleasant, they dried all + their baggage and merchandise and secreted them in places of deposits, + called caches, as follows:— + </p> + <p> + “These deposits—or caches, as they are called by the Missouri + traders—are very common, particularly among those who deal with the + Sioux, as the skins and merchandise will keep perfectly sound for years, + and are protected from robbery. Our cache was built in the usual manner. + In the high plain on the north side of the Missouri, and forty yards from + a steep bluff, we chose a dry situation, and then, describing a small + circle of about twenty inches diameter, removed the sod as gently and + carefully as possible: the hole was then sunk perpendicularly for a foot + deep. It was now worked gradually wider as it descended, till at length it + became six or seven feet deep, shaped nearly like a kettle, or the lower + part of a large still with the bottom somewhat sunk at the centre. As the + earth was dug it was handed up in a vessel, and carefully laid on a skin + or cloth, in which it was carried away and thrown into the river, so as to + leave no trace of it. A floor of three or four inches in thickness was + then made of dry sticks, on which was placed a hide perfectly dry. The + goods, being well aired and dried, were laid on this floor, and prevented + from touching the wall by other dried sticks, as the merchandise was + stowed away. When the hole was nearly full, a skin was laid over the + goods, and on this earth was thrown and beaten down, until, with the + addition of the sod first removed, the whole was on a level with the + ground, and there remained not the slightest appearance of an excavation. + In addition to this, we made another of smaller dimensions, in which we + placed all the baggage, some powder, and our blacksmith’s tools, having + previously repaired such of the tools as we carry with us that require + mending. To guard against accident, we had two parcelss of lead and powder + in the two places. The red pirogue was drawn up on the middle of a small + island, at the entrance of Maria’s River, and secured, by being fastened + to the trees, from the effects of any floods. We now took another + observation of the meridian altitude of the sun, and found that the mean + latitude of Maria’s River, as deduced from three observations, is 49'0 25’ + 17.2” N.” + </p> + <p> + In order to make assurance doubly sure, Captain Lewis resolved to take + four men with him and ascend the south branch (that is, the true + Missouri), before committing the expedition to that route as the final + one. His proposition was that his party should proceed up the river as + rapidly as possible in advance of the main party. On the second day out, + says the journal:— + </p> + <p> + “Captain Lewis left the bank of the river in order to avoid the steep + ravines, which generally run from the shore to the distance of one or two + miles in the plain. Having reached the open country he went for twelve + miles in a course a little to the W. of S.W.; when, the sun becoming warm + by nine o’clock, he returned to the river in quest of water, and to kill + something for breakfast; there being no water in the plain, and the + buffalo, discovering them before they came within gunshot, took to flight. + They reached the banks in a handsome open low ground with cottonwood, + after three miles’ walk. Here they saw two large brown bears, and killed + them both at the first fire—a circumstance which has never before + occurred since we have seen that animal. Having made a meal of a part, and + hung the remainder on a tree, with a note for Captain Clark, they again + ascended the bluffs into the open plains. Here they saw great numbers of + the burrowing-squirrel, also some wolves, antelopes, mule-deer, and vast + herds of buffalo. They soon crossed a ridge considerably higher than the + surrounding plains, and from its top had a beautiful view of the Rocky + Mountains, which are now completely covered with snow. Their general + course is from S.E. to N. of N.W., and they seem to consist of several + ranges which successively rise above each other, till the most distant + mingles with the clouds. After travelling twelve miles they again met the + river, where there was a handsome plain of cottonwood.” + </p> + <p> + Again leaving the river, Captain Lewis bore off more to the north, the + stream here bearing considerably to the south, with difficult bluffs along + its course. But fearful of passing the Great Falls before reaching the + Rocky Mountains, he again changed his course and, leaving the bluffs to + his right he turned towards the river. + </p> + <p> + The journal gives this description of what followed:— + </p> + <p> + “In this direction Captain Lewis had gone about two miles, when his ears + were saluted with the agreeable sound of a fall of water, and as he + advanced a spray, which seemed driven by the high southwest wind, arose + above the plain like a column of smoke, and vanished in an instant. Toward + this point he directed his steps; the noise increased as he approached, + and soon became too tremendous to be mistaken for anything but the Great + Falls of the Missouri. Having travelled seven miles after first hearing + the sound, he reached the falls about twelve o’clock. The hills as he + approached were difficult of access and two hundred feet high. Down these + he hurried with impatience; and, seating himself on some rocks under the + centre of the falls, enjoyed the sublime spectacle of this stupendous + object, which since the creation had been lavishing its magnificence upon + the desert, unknown to civilization. + </p> + <p> + “The river immediately at this cascade is three hundred yards wide, and is + pressed in by a perpendicular cliff on the left, which rises to about one + hundred feet and extends up the stream for a mile; on the right the bluff + is also perpendicular for three hundred yards above the falls. For ninety + or one hundred yards from the left cliff, the water falls in one smooth, + even sheet, over a precipice of at least eighty feet. The remaining part + of the river precipitates itself with a more rapid current, but being + received as it falls by the irregular and somewhat projecting rocks below, + forms a splendid prospect of perfectly white foam, two hundred yards in + length and eighty in perpendicular elevation. This spray is dissipated + into a thousand shapes, sometimes flying up in columns of fifteen or + twenty feet, which are then oppressed by larger masses of the white foam, + on all of which the sun impresses the brightest colors of the rainbow. + Below the fall the water beats with fury against a ledge of rocks, which + extends across the river at one hundred and fifty yards from the + precipice. From the perpendicular cliff on the north to the distance of + one hundred and twenty yards, the rocks are only a few feet above the + water; and, when the river is high, the stream finds a channel across them + forty yards wide, and near the higher parts of the ledge, which rise about + twenty feet, and terminate abruptly within eighty or ninety yards of the + southern side. Between them and the perpendicular cliff on the south, the + whole body of water runs with great swiftness. A few small cedars grow + near this ridge of rocks, which serves as a barrier to defend a small + plain of about three acres, shaded with cottonwood; at the lower extremity + of which is a grove of the same trees, where are several deserted Indian + cabins of sticks; below which the river is divided by a large rock, + several feet above the surface of the water, and extending down the stream + for twenty yards. At the distance of three hundred yards from the same + ridge is a second abutment of solid perpendicular rock, about sixty feet + high, projecting at right angles from the small plain on the north for one + hundred and thirty-four yards into the river. After leaving this, the + Missouri again spreads itself to its previous breadth of three hundred + yards, though with more than its ordinary rapidity.” + </p> + <p> + One of Lewis’s men was sent back to inform Captain Clark of this momentous + discovery, which finally settled all doubt as to which was the true + Missouri. The famous Great Falls of the river had been finally reached. + Captain Lewis next went on to examine the rapids above the falls. The + journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “After passing one continued rapid and three cascades, each three or four + feet high, he reached, at the distance of five miles, a second fall. The + river is here about four hundred yards wide, and for the distance of three + hundred rushes down to the depth of nineteen feet, and so irregularly that + he gave it the name of the Crooked Falls. From the southern shore it + extends obliquely upward about one hundred and fifty yards, and then forms + an acute angle downward nearly to the commencement of four small islands + close to the northern side. From the perpendicular pitch to these islands, + a distance of more than one hundred yards, the water glides down a sloping + rock with a velocity almost equal to that of its fall: above this fall the + river bends suddenly to the northward. While viewing this place, Captain + Lewis heard a loud roar above him, and, crossing the point of a hill a few + hundred yards, he saw one of the most beautiful objects in nature: the + whole Missouri is suddenly stopped by one shelving rock, which, without a + single niche, and with an edge as straight and regular as if formed by + art, stretches itself from one side of the river to the other for at least + a quarter of a mile. Over this it precipitates itself in an even, + uninterrupted sheet, to the perpendicular depth of fifty feet, whence, + dashing against the rocky bottom, it rushes rapidly down, leaving behind + it a sheet of the purest foam across the river. The scene which it + presented was indeed singularly beautiful; since, without any of the wild, + irregular sublimity of the lower falls, it combined all the regular + elegancies which the fancy of a painter would select to form a beautiful + waterfall. The eye had scarcely been regaled with this charming prospect, + when at the distance of half a mile Captain Lewis observed another of a + similar kind. To this he immediately hastened, and found a cascade + stretching across the whole river for a quarter of a mile, with a descent + of fourteen feet, though the perpendicular pitch was only six feet. This, + too, in any other neighborhood, would have been an object of great + magnificence; but after what he had just seen, it became of secondary + interest. His curiosity being, however, awakened, he determined to go on, + even should night overtake him, to the head of the falls. + </p> + <p> + “He therefore pursued the southwest course of the river, which was one + constant succession of rapids and small cascades, at every one of which + the bluffs grew lower, or the bed of the river became more on a level with + the plains. At the distance of two and one-half miles he arrived at + another cataract, of twenty-six feet. The river is here six hundred yards + wide, but the descent is not immediately perpendicular, though the river + falls generally with a regular and smooth sheet; for about one-third of + the descent a rock protrudes to a small distance, receives the water in + its passage, and gives it a curve. On the south side is a beautiful plain, + a few feet above the level of the falls; on the north, the country is more + broken, and there is a hill not far from the river. Just below the falls + is a little island in the middle of the river, well covered with timber. + Here on a cottonwood tree an eagle had fixed her nest, and seemed the + undisputed mistress of a spot, to contest whose dominion neither man nor + beast would venture across the gulfs that surround it, and which is + further secured by the mist rising from the falls. This solitary bird + could not escape the observation of the Indians, who made the eagle’s nest + a part of their description of the falls, which now proves to be correct + in almost every particular, except that they did not do justice to the + height. + </p> + <p> + “Just above this is a cascade of about five feet, beyond which, as far as + could be discerned, the velocity of the water seemed to abate. Captain + Lewis now ascended the hill which was behind him, and saw from its top a + delightful plain, extending from the river to the base of the Snowy + (Rocky) Mountains to the south and southwest. Along this wide, level + country the Missouri pursued its winding course, filled with water to its + smooth, grassy banks, while about four miles above, it was joined by a + large river flowing from the northwest, through a valley three miles in + width, and distinguished by the timber which adorned its shores. The + Missouri itself stretches to the south, in one unruffled stream of water, + as if unconscious of the roughness it must soon encounter, and bearing on + its bosom vast flocks of geese, while numerous herds of buffalo are + feeding on the plains which surround it. + </p> + <p> + “Captain Lewis then descended the hill, and directed his course towards + the river falling in from the west. He soon met a herd of at least a + thousand buffalo, and, being desirous of providing for supper, shot one of + them. The animal immediately began to bleed, and Captain Lewis, who had + forgotten to reload his rifle, was intently watching to see him fall, when + he beheld a large brown bear which was stealing on him unperceived, and + was already within twenty steps. In the first moment of surprise he lifted + his rifle; but, remembering instantly that it was not charged, and that he + had no time to reload, he felt that there was no safety but in flight. It + was in the open, level plain; not a bush nor a tree within three hundred + yards; the bank of the river sloping, and not more than three feet high, + so that there was no possible mode of concealment. Captain Lewis, + therefore, thought of retreating with a quick walk, as fast as the bear + advanced, towards the nearest tree; but, as soon as he turned, the bear + rushed open-mouthed, and at full speed, upon him. Captain Lewis ran about + eighty yards, but finding that the animal gained on him fast, it flashed + on his mind that, by getting into the water to such a depth that the bear + would be obliged to attack him swimming, there was still some chance of + his life; he therefore turned short, plunged into the river about + waist-deep, and facing about presented the point of his espontoon. The + bear arrived at the water’s edge within twenty feet of him; but as soon as + he put himself in this posture of defence, the bear seemed frightened, and + wheeling about, retreated with as much precipitation as he had pursued. + Very glad to be released from this danger, Captain Lewis returned to the + shore, and observed him run with great speed, sometimes looking back as if + he expected to be pursued, till he reached the woods. He could not + conceive the cause of the sudden alarm of the bear, but congratulated + himself on his escape when he saw his own track torn to pieces by the + furious animal, and learned from the whole adventure never to suffer his + rifle to be a moment unloaded.” + </p> + <p> + Captain Lewis now resumed his progress towards the western, or Sun, River, + then more commonly known among the Indians as Medicine River. In going + through the lowlands of this stream, he met an animal which he thought was + a wolf, but which was more likely a wolverine, or carcajou. The journal + says:— + </p> + <p> + “It proved to be some brownish yellow animal, standing near its burrow, + which, when he came nigh, crouched, and seemed as if about to spring on + him. Captain Lewis fired, and the beast disappeared in its burrow. From + the track, and the general appearance of the animal, he supposed it to be + of the tiger kind. He then went on; but, as if the beasts of the forest + had conspired against him, three buffalo bulls, which were feeding with a + large herd at the distance of half a mile, left their companions, and ran + at full speed towards him. He turned round, and, unwilling to give up the + field, advanced to meet them: when they were within a hundred yards they + stopped, looked at him for some time, and then retreated as they came. He + now pursued his route in the dark, reflecting on the strange adventures + and sights of the day, which crowded on his mind so rapidly, that he + should have been inclined to believe it all enchantment if the thorns of + the prickly pear, piercing his feet, had not dispelled at every moment the + illusion. He at last reached the party, who had been very anxious for his + safety, and who had already decided on the route which each should take in + the morning to look for him. Being much fatigued, he supped, and slept + well during the night.” + </p> + <p> + On awaking the next morning, Captain Lewis found a large rattlesnake + coiled on the trunk of a tree under which he had been sleeping. He killed + it, and found it like those he had seen before, differing from those of + the Atlantic States, not in its colors, but in the form and arrangement of + them. Information was received that Captain Clark had arrived five miles + below, at a rapid which he did not think it prudent to ascend, and that he + was waiting there for the party above to rejoin him. + </p> + <p> + After the departure of Captain Lewis, Captain Clark had remained a day at + Maria’s River, to complete the deposit of such articles as they could + dispense with, and started on the twelfth of June. + </p> + <p> + Four days later, Captain Clark left the river, having sent his messenger + to Captain Lewis, and began to search for a proper portage to convey the + pirogue and canoes across to the Columbia River, leaving most of the men + to hunt, make wheels and draw the canoes up a creek which they named + Portage Creek, as it was to be the base of their future operations. The + stream is now known as Belt Mountain Creek. But the explorers soon found + that although the pirogue was to be left behind, the way was too difficult + for a portage even for canoes. The journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “We found great difficulty and some danger in even ascending the creek + thus far, in consequence of the rapids and rocks of the channel of the + creek, which just above where we brought the canoes has a fall of five + feet, with high steep bluffs beyond it. We were very fortunate in finding, + just below Portage Creek, a cottonwood tree about twenty-two inches in + diameter, large enough to make the carriage-wheels. It was, perhaps, the + only one of the same size within twenty miles; and the cottonwood which we + are obliged to employ in the other parts of the work is extremely soft and + brittle. The mast of the white pirogue, which we mean to leave behind, + supplied us with two axle-trees. + </p> + <p> + “There are vast quantities of buffalo feeding on the plains or watering in + the river, which is also strewed with the floating carcasses and limbs of + these animals. They go in large herds to water about the falls, and as all + the passages to the river near that place are narrow and steep, the + foremost are pressed into the river by the impatience of those behind. In + this way we have seen ten or a dozen disappear over the falls in a few + minutes. They afford excellent food for the wolves, bears, and birds of + prey; which circumstance may account for the reluctance of the bears to + yield their dominion over the neighborhood. + </p> + <p> + “The pirogue was drawn up a little below our camp, and secured in a thick + copse of willow-bushes. We now began to form a cache or place of deposit, + and to dry our goods and other articles which required inspection. The + wagons are completed. Our hunters brought us ten deer, and we shot two out + of a herd of buffalo that came to water at Sulphur Spring. There is a + species of gooseberry, growing abundantly among the rocks on the sides of + the cliffs. It is now ripe, of a pale red color, about the size of the + common gooseberry, and like it is an ovate pericarp of soft pulp + enveloping a number of small whitish seeds, and consisting of a yellowish, + slimy, mucilaginous substance, with a sweet taste; the surface of the + berry is covered glutinous, adhesive matter, and its fruit, though ripe, + retains its withered corolla. The shrub itself seldom rises more than two + feet high, is much branched, and has no thorns. The leaves resemble those + of the common gooseberry, except in being smaller, and the berry is + supported by separate peduncles or foot-stalks half an inch long. There + are also immense quantities of grasshoppers, of a brown color, on the + plains; they, no doubt, contribute to the lowness of the grass, which is + not generally more than three inches high, though it is soft, + narrow-leaved, and affords a fine pasture for the buffalo.” + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0011" id="link2HCH0011"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XI — A the Heart of the Continent + </h2> + <p> + Captain Clark continued his observations up the long series of rapids and + falls until he came to a group of three small islands to which he gave the + name of White Bear Islands, from his having seen numerous white, or + grizzly, bears on them. On the nineteenth of June, Captain Clark, after a + careful survey of the country on both sides of the stream, decided that + the best place for a portage was on the south, or lower, side of the + river, the length of the portage being estimated to be about eighteen + miles, over which the canoes and supplies must be carried. Next day he + proceeded to mark out the exact route of the portage, or carry, by driving + stakes along its lines and angles. From the survey and drawing which he + made, the party now had a clear and accurate view of the falls, cascades, + and rapids of the Missouri; and, it may be added, this draught, which is + reproduced on another page of this book, is still so correct in all its + measurements that when a Montana manufacturing company undertook to build + a dam at Black Eagle Falls, nearly one hundred years afterwards, they + discovered that their surveys and those of Captain Clark were precisely + alike. The total fall of the river, from the White Bear Islands, as Lewis + and Clark called them, to the foot of the Great Falls, is four hundred + twelve and five-tenths feet; the sheer drop of the Great Fall is + seventy-five and five-tenths feet. The wild, trackless prairie of Lewis + and Clark’s time is now the site of the thriving town of Great Falls, + which has a population of ten thousand. + </p> + <p> + Here is a lucid and connected account of the falls and rapids, discovered + and described by Lewis and Clark: + </p> + <p> + “This river is three hundred yards wide at the point where it receives the + waters of Medicine (Sun) River, which is one hundred and thirty-seven + yards in width. The united current continues three hundred and + twenty-eight poles to a small rapid on the north side, from which it + gradually widens to fourteen hundred yards, and at the distance of five + hundred and forty-eight poles reaches the head of the rapids, narrowing as + it approaches them. Here the hills on the north, which had withdrawn from + the bank, closely border the river, which, for the space of three hundred + and twenty poles, makes its way over the rocks, with a descent of thirty + feet. In this course the current is contracted to five hundred and eighty + yards, and after throwing itself over a small pitch of five feet, forms a + beautiful cascade of twenty-six feet five inches; this does not, however, + fall immediately or perpendicularly, being stopped by a part of the rock, + which projects at about one-third of the distance. After descending this + fall, and passing the cottonwood island on which the eagle has fixed her + nest, the river goes on for five hundred and thirty-two poles over rapids + and little falls, the estimated descent of which is thirteen and one-half + feet, till it is joined by a large fountain boiling up underneath the + rocks near the edge of the river, into which it falls with a cascade of + eight feet. The water of this fountain is of the most perfect clearness, + and of rather a bluish cast; and, even after falling into the Missouri, it + preserves its color for half a mile. From the fountain the river descends + with increased rapidity for the distance of two hundred and fourteen + poles, during which the estimated descent is five feet; and from this, for + a distance of one hundred and thirty-five poles, it descends fourteen feet + seven inches, including a perpendicular fall of six feet seven inches. The + Missouri has now become pressed into a space of four hundred and + seventy-three yards, and here forms a grand cataract, by falling over a + plain rock the whole distance across the river, to the depth of + forty-seven feet eight inches. After recovering itself, it then proceeds + with an estimated descent of three feet, till, at the distance of one + hundred and two poles, it is precipitated down the Crooked Falls nineteen + feet perpendicular. Below this, at the mouth of a deep ravine, is a fall + of five feet; after which, for the distance of nine hundred and seventy + poles, the descent is much more gradual, not being more than ten feet, and + then succeeds a handsome level plain for the space of one hundred and + seventy-eight poles, with a computed descent of three feet, the river + making a bend towards the north. Thence it descends, for four hundred and + eighty poles, about eighteen and one-half feet, when it makes a + perpendicular fall of two feet, which is ninety poles beyond the great + cataract; in approaching which, it descends thirteen feet within two + hundred yards, and, gathering strength from its confined channel, which is + only two hundred and eighty yards wide, rushes over the fall to the depth + of eighty-seven feet. + </p> + <p> + “After raging among the rocks, and losing itself in foam, it is compressed + immediately into a bed of ninety-three yards in width: it continues for + three hundred and forty poles to the entrance of a run or deep ravine, + where there is a fall of three feet, which, added to the decline during + that distance, makes the descent six feet. As it goes on, the descent + within the next two hundred and forty poles is only four feet; from this, + passing a run or deep ravine, the descent in four hundred poles is + thirteen feet; within two hundred and forty poles, another descent of + eighteen feet; thence, in one hundred and sixty poles, a descent of six + feet; after which, to the mouth of Portage Creek, a distance of two + hundred and eighty poles, the descent is ten feet. From this survey and + estimate, it results that the river experiences a descent of three hundred + and fifty-two feet in the distance of two and three quarter miles, from + the commencement of the rapids to the mouth of Portage Creek, exclusive of + the almost impassable rapids which extend for a mile below its entrance.” + </p> + <p> + On the twenty-first of the month, all the needed preparations having been + finished, the arduous work of making the portage, or carry, was begun. All + the members of the expedition were now together, and the two captains + divided with their men the labor of hunting, carrying luggage, + boat-building, exploring, and so on. They made three camps, the lower one + on Portage Creek, the next at Willow Run (see map), and a third at a point + opposite White Bear Islands. The portage was not completed until July + second. They were often delayed by the breaking down of their rude + carriages, and during the last stage of their journey much of their + luggage was carried on the backs of the men. They were also very much + annoyed with the spines of the prickly pear, a species of cactus, which, + growing low on the ground, is certain to be trampled upon by the wayfarer. + The spines ran through the moccasins of the men and sorely wounded their + feet. Thus, under date of June twenty-fourth, the journal says (It should + be understood that the portage was worked from above and below the + rapids):— + </p> + <p> + “On going down yesterday Captain Clark cut off several angles of the + former route, so as to shorten the portage considerably, and marked it + with stakes. He arrived there in time to have two of the canoes carried up + in the high plain, about a mile in advance. Here they all repaired their + moccasins, and put on double soles to protect them from the prickly pear, + and from the sharp points of earth which have been formed by the trampling + of the buffalo during the late rains. This of itself is sufficient to + render the portage disagreeable to one who has no burden; but as the men + are loaded as heavily as their strength will permit, the crossing is + really painful. Some are limping with the soreness of their feet; others + are scarcely able to stand for more than a few minutes, from the heat and + fatigue. They are all obliged to halt and rest frequently; at almost every + stopping-place they fall, and many of them are asleep in an instant; yet + no one complains, and they go on with great cheerfulness. At the camp, + midway in the portage, Drewyer and Fields joined them; for, while Captain + Lewis was looking for them at Medicine River, they returned to report the + absence of Shannon, about whom they had been very uneasy. They had killed + several buffalo at the bend of the Missouri above the falls, dried about + eight hundred pounds of meat, and got one hundred pounds of tallow; they + had also killed some deer, but had seen no elk.” + </p> + <p> + Under this date, too, Captain Lewis, who was with another branch of the + expedition, makes this note: “Such as were able to shake a foot amused + themselves in dancing on the green to the music of the violin which + Cruzatte plays extremely well.” + </p> + <p> + The journal continues:— + </p> + <p> + “We were now occupied (at White Bear camp) in fitting up a boat of skins, + the frame of which had been prepared for the purpose at Harper’s Ferry in + Virginia. It was made of iron, thirty-six feet long, four and one-half + feet in the beam, and twenty-six inches wide in the bottom. Two men had + been sent this morning for timber to complete it, but they could find + scarcely any even tolerably straight sticks four and one-half feet long; + and as the cottonwood is too soft and brittle, we were obliged to use + willow and box-elder.” + </p> + <p> + On the twenty-seventh, the main party, which was working on the upper part + of the portage, joined that of Captain Clark at the lower camp, where a + second cache, or place of deposit, had been formed, and where the + boat-swivel was now hidden under the rocks. The journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “The party were employed in preparing timber for the boat, except two who + were sent to hunt. About one in the afternoon a cloud arose from the + southwest, and brought with it violent thunder, lightning, and hail. Soon + after it passed, the hunters came in, from about four miles above us. They + had killed nine elk and three bears. As they were hunting on the river + they saw a low ground covered with thick brushwood, where from the tracks + along shore they thought a bear had probably taken refuge. They therefore + landed, without making a noise, and climbed a tree about twenty feet above + the ground. Having fixed themselves securely, they raised a loud shout, + and a bear instantly rushed toward them. These animals never climb, and + therefore when he came to the tree and stopped to look at them, Drewyer + shot him in the head. He proved to be the largest we had yet seen; his + nose appeared to be like that of a common ox; his fore feet measured nine + inches across; the hind feet were seven inches wide and eleven and three + quarters long, exclusive of the talons. One of these animals came within + thirty yards of the camp last night, and carried off some buffalo-meat + which we had placed on a pole.” + </p> + <p> + The party were very much annoyed here by the grizzlies which infested + their camp at night. Their faithful dog always gave warning of the + approach of one of these monsters; but the men were obliged to sleep with + their guns by their side, ready to repel the enemy at a moment’s notice. + </p> + <p> + Captain Clark finally broke up the camp on Portage Creek, June 28, having + deposited in his cache whatever could be left behind without + inconvenience. “On the following day,” the journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “Finding it impossible to reach the upper end of the portage with the + present load, in consequence of the state of the road after the rain, he + sent back nearly all his party to bring on the articles which had been + left yesterday. Having lost some notes and remarks which he had made on + first ascending the river, he determined to go up to the Whitebear Islands + along its banks, in order to supply the deficiency. He there left one man + to guard the baggage, and went on to the falls, accompanied by his servant + York, Chaboneau, and his wife with her young child. + </p> + <p> + “On his arrival there he observed a very dark cloud rising in the west, + which threatened rain, and looked around for some shelter; but could find + no place where the party would be secure from being blown into the river, + if the wind should prove as violent as it sometimes does in the plains. At + length, about a quarter of a mile above the falls, he found a deep ravine, + where there were some shelving rocks, under which he took refuge. They + were on the upper side of the ravine near the river, perfectly safe from + the rain, and therefore laid down their guns, compass, and other articles + which they carried with them. The shower was at first moderate; it then + increased to a heavy rain, the effects of which they did not feel; but + soon after, a torrent of rain and hail descended. The rain seemed to fall + in a solid mass, and instantly, collecting in the ravine, came rolling + down in a dreadful current, carrying the mud, rocks, and everything that + opposed it. Captain Clark fortunately saw it a moment before it reached + them, and springing up with his gun and shot-pouch in his left hand, with + his right clambered up the steep bluff, pushing on the Indian woman with + her child in her arms; her husband too had seized her hand and was pulling + her tip the hill, but he was so terrified at the danger that he remained + frequently motionless; and but for Captain Clark, himself and his wife and + child would have been lost. So instantaneous was the rise of the water + that, before Captain Clark had reached his gun and begun to ascend the + bank, the water was up to his waist, and he could scarcely get up faster + than it rose, till it reached the height of fifteen feet, with a furious + current which, had they waited a moment longer, would have swept them into + the river just above the Great Falls, down which they must inevitably have + been precipitated. They reached the plain in safety and found York, who + had separated from them just before the storm to hunt some buffalo, and + was now returning to find his master. They had been obliged to escape so + rapidly that Captain Clark lost his compass (that is, circumferentor) and + umbrella, Chaboneau left his gun, with Captain Lewis’ wiping-rod, + shot-pouch, and tomahawk, and the Indian woman had just time to grasp her + child, before the net in which it lay at her feet was carried down the + current.” + </p> + <p> + Such a storm is known in the West as a cloud-burst. Overland emigrants in + the early rush to California often suffered loss from these sudden + deluges. A party of men, with wagons and animals, have been known to be + swept away and lost in a flood bursting in a narrow canyon in the + mountains. + </p> + <p> + “Captain Clark now relinquished his intention of going up the river, and + returned to the camp at Willow Run. Here he found that the party sent this + morning for the baggage had all returned to camp in great confusion, + leaving their loads in the plain. On account of the heat, they generally + go nearly naked, and with no covering on their heads. The hail was so + large, and driven so furiously against them by the high wind, that it + knocked several of them down: one of them, particularly, was thrown on the + ground three times, and most of them were bleeding freely, and complained + of being much bruised. Willow Run had risen six feet since the rain; and, + as the plains were so wet that they could not proceed, they passed the + night at their camp. + </p> + <p> + “At the White Bear camp, also,” (says Lewis), “we had not been insensible + to the hailstorm, though less exposed. In the morning there had been a + heavy shower of rain, after which it became fair. After assigning to the + men their respective employments, Captain Lewis took one of them, and went + to see the large fountain near the falls. . . . It is, perhaps, the + largest in America, and is situated in a pleasant level plain, about + twenty-five yards from the river, into which it falls over some steep, + irregular rocks, with a sudden ascent of about six feet in one part of its + course. The water boils up from among the rocks, and with such force near + the centre that the surface seems higher there than the earth on the sides + of the fountain, which is a handsome turf of fine green grass. The water + is extremely pure, cold, and pleasant to the taste, not being impregnated + with lime or any foreign substance. It is perfectly transparent, and + continues its bluish cast for half a mile down the Missouri, + notwithstanding the rapidity of the river. After examining it for some + time, Captain Lewis returned to the camp. . . .” + </p> + <p> + “Two men were sent (June 30) to the falls to look for the articles lost + yesterday; but they found nothing but the compass, covered with mud and + sand, at the mouth of the ravine. The place at which Captain Clark had + been caught by the storm was filled with large rocks. The men complain + much of the bruises received yesterday from the hail. A more than usual + number of buffalo appeared about the camp to-day, and furnished plenty of + meat. Captain Clark thought that at one view he must have seen at least + ten thousand.” + </p> + <p> + Of the party at the upper camp, opposite White Bear Islands, the journal + makes this observation:— + </p> + <p> + “The party continues to be occupied with the boat, the cross-bars for + which are now finished, and there remain only the strips to complete the + woodwork. The skins necessary to cover it have already been prepared; they + amount to twenty-eight elk-skins and four buffalo-skins. Among our game + were two beaver, which we have had occasion to observe are found wherever + there is timber. We also killed a large bull-bat or goatsucker, of which + there are many in this neighborhood, resembling in every respect those of + the same species in the United States. We have not seen the leather-winged + bat for some time, nor are there any of the small goatsucker in this part + of the Missouri. We have not seen that species of goatsucker called the + whippoorwill, which is commonly confounded in the United States with the + large goatsucker which we observe here. This last prepares no nest, but + lays its eggs on the open plains; they generally begin to sit on two eggs, + and we believe raise only one brood in a season; at the present moment + they are just hatching their young.” + </p> + <p> + Dr. Coues says that we should bear in mind that this was written “when + bats were birds and whales were fishes for most persons.” The journal + confounds bats, which are winged mammals, with goatsuckers, or + whippoorwills, which are birds. + </p> + <p> + The second of July was an interesting date for the explorers. On that day + we find the following entry in their journal:— + </p> + <p> + “A shower of rain fell very early this morning. We then despatched some + men for the baggage left behind yesterday, and the rest were engaged in + putting the boat together. This was accomplished in about three hours, and + then we began to sew on the leather over the crossbars of iron on the + inner side of the boat which form the ends of the sections. By two o’clock + the last of the baggage arrived, to the great delight of the party, who + were anxious to proceed. The mosquitoes we find very troublesome. + </p> + <p> + “Having completed our celestial observations, we went over to the large + island to make an attack upon its inhabitants, the bears, which have + annoyed us very much of late, and were prowling about our camp all last + night. We found that the part of the island frequented by the bears forms + an almost impenetrable thicket of the broad-leaved willow. Into this we + forced our way in parties of three; but could see only one bear, which + instantly attacked Drewyer. Fortunately, as he was rushing on, the hunter + shot him through the heart within twenty paces and he fell, which enabled + Drewyer to get out of his way. We then followed him one hundred yards, and + found that the wound had been mortal. + </p> + <p> + “Not being able to discover any more of these animals, we returned to + camp. Here, in turning over some of the baggage, we caught a rat somewhat + larger than the common European rat, and of a lighter color; the body and + outer parts of the legs and head of a light lead color; the inner side of + the legs, as well as the belly, feet, and ears, white; the ears are not + covered with hair, and are much larger than those of the common rat; the + toes also are longer; the eyes are black and prominent, the whiskers very + long and full; the tail is rather longer than the body, and covered with + fine fur and hair of the same size with that on the back, which is very + close, short, and silky in its texture. This was the first we had met, + although its nests are very frequent in the cliffs of rocks and hollow + trees, where we also found large quantities of the shells and seed of the + prickly-pear.” + </p> + <p> + The queer rat discovered by Lewis and Clark was then unknown to science. + It is now known in the Far West as the pack-rat. It lives in holes and + crevices of the rocks, and it subsists on the shells and seeds of the + prickly pear, which is usually abundant in the hunting grounds of the + little animal. The explorers were now constantly in full view of the Rocky + Mountain, on which, however, their present title had not then been + conferred. Under date of July 2, the journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “The mosquitoes are uncommonly troublesome. The wind was again high from + the southwest. These winds are in fact always the coldest and most violent + which we experience, and the hypothesis which we have formed on that + subject is, that the air, coming in contact with the Snowy Mountains, + immediately becomes chilled and condensed, and being thus rendered heavier + than the air below, it descends into the rarefied air below, or into the + vacuum formed by the constant action of the sun on the open unsheltered + plains. The clouds rise suddenly near these mountains, and distribute + their contents partially over the neighboring plains. The same cloud will + discharge hail alone in one part, hail and rain in another, and rain only + in a third, all within the space of a few miles; while at the same time + there is snow falling on the mountains to the southeast of us. There is at + present no snow on those mountains; that which covered them on our + arrival, as well as that which has since fallen, having disappeared. The + mountains to the north and northwest of us are still entirely covered with + snow; indeed, there has been no perceptible diminution of it since we + first saw them, which induces a belief either that the clouds prevailing + at this season do not reach their summits or that they deposit their snow + only. They glisten with great beauty when the sun shines on them in a + particular direction, and most probably from this glittering appearance + have derived the name of the Shining Mountains.” + </p> + <p> + A mysterious noise, heard by the party, here engaged their attention, as + it did years afterwards the attention of other explorers. The journal + says:— + </p> + <p> + “Since our arrival at the falls we have repeatedly heard a strange noise + coming from the mountains in a direction a little to the north of west. It + is heard at different periods of the day and night (sometimes when the air + is perfectly still and without a cloud), and consists of one stroke only, + or of five or six discharges in quick succession. It is loud, and + resembles precisely the sound of a six-pound piece of ordnance at the + distance of three miles. The Minnetarees frequently mentioned this noise, + like thunder, which they said the mountains made; but we had paid no + attention to it, believing it to have been some superstition, or perhaps a + falsehood. The watermen also of the party say that the Pawnees and Ricaras + give the same account of a noise heard in the Black Mountains to the + westward of them. The solution of the mystery given by the philosophy of + the watermen is, that it is occasioned by the bursting of the rich mines + of silver confined within the bosom of the mountains.” + </p> + <p> + Of these strange noises there are many explanations, the most plausible + being that they are caused by the explosion of the species of stone known + as the geode, fragments of which are frequently found among the mountains. + The geode has a hollow cell within, lined with beautiful crystals of many + colors. + </p> + <p> + Independence Day, 1805, was celebrated with becoming patriotism and + cheerfulness by these far-wandering adventurers. Their record says:— + </p> + <p> + “An elk and a beaver are all that were killed to-day; the buffalo seem to + have withdrawn from our neighborhood, though several of the men, who went + to-day to visit the falls for the first time, mention that they are still + abundant at that place. We contrived, however, to spread not a very + sumptuous but a comfortable table in honor of the day, and in the evening + gave the men a drink of spirits, which was the last of our stock. Some of + them appeared sensible to the effects of even so small a quantity; and as + is usual among them on all festivals, the fiddle was produced and a dance + begun, which lasted till nine o’clock, when it was interrupted by a heavy + shower of rain. They continued their merriment, however, till a late + hour.” + </p> + <p> + Their bill-of-fare, according to Captain Lewis, was bacon, beans, suet + dumplings, and buffalo meat, which, he says, “gave them no just cause to + covet the sumptuous feasts of our countrymen on this day.” More than a + year passed before they again saw and tasted spirits. + </p> + <p> + Great expectations were entertained of the boat that was built here on the + iron frame brought all the way from Harper’s Ferry, Virginia. The frame + was covered with dressed skins of buffalo and elk, the seams being coated + with a composition of powdered charcoal and beeswax, in default of tar or + pitch. This craft was well named the “Experiment,” and a disappointing + experiment it proved to be. Here is Captain Lewis’ account of her failure: + </p> + <p> + “The boat having now become sufficiently dry, we gave her a coat of the + composition, which after a proper interval was repeated, and the next + morning, Tuesday, July 9th, she was launched into the water, and swam + perfectly well. The seats were then fixed and the oars fitted; but after + we had loaded her, as well as the canoes, and were on the point of setting + out, a violent wind caused the waves to wet the baggage, so that we were + forced to unload the boats. The wind continued high until evening, when to + our great disappointment we discovered that nearly all the composition had + separated from the skins and left the seams perfectly exposed; so that the + boat now leaked very much. To repair this misfortune without pitch is + impossible, and as none of that article is to be procured, we therefore, + however reluctantly, are obliged to abandon her, after having had so much + labor in the construction. We now saw that the section of the boat covered + with buffalo-skins on which hair had been left answered better than the + elk-skins, and leaked but little; while that part which was covered with + hair about one-eighth of an inch retained the composition perfectly, and + remained sound and dry. From this we perceived that had we employed + buffalo instead of elk skins, not singed them so closely as we did, and + carefully avoided cutting the leather in sewing, the boat would have been + sufficient even with the present composition; or had we singed instead of + shaving the elk-skins, we might have succeeded. But we discovered our + error too late; the buffalo had deserted us, and the travelling season was + so fast advancing that we had no time to spare for experiments; therefore, + finding that she could be no longer useful, she was sunk in the water, so + as to soften the skins, and enable us the more easily to take her to + pieces. + </p> + <p> + “It now became necessary to provide other means for transporting the + baggage which we had intended to stow in her. For this purpose we shall + want two more canoes; but for many miles—from below the mouth of the + Musselshell River to this place—we have not seen a single tree fit + to be used in that way. The hunters, however, who have hitherto been sent + after timber, mention that there is a low ground on the opposite side of + the river, about eight miles above us by land, and more than twice that + distance by water, in which we may probably find trees large enough for + our purposes. Captain Clark determined, therefore, to set out by land for + that place with ten of the best workmen, who would be occupied in building + the canoes till the rest of the party, after taking the boat to pieces, + and making the necessary deposits, should transport the baggage, and join + them with the other six canoes. + </p> + <p> + “He accordingly passed over to the opposite side of the river with his + party next day, and proceeded on eight miles by land, the distance by + water being twenty-three and three quarter miles. Here he found two + cottonwood trees; but, on cutting them down, one proved to be hollow, + split at the top in falling, and both were much damaged at the bottom. He + searched the neighborhood, but could find none which would suit better, + and therefore was obliged to make use of those which he had felled, + shortening them in order to avoid the cracks, and supplying the deficiency + by making them as wide as possible. They were equally at a loss for wood + of which they might make handles for their axes, the eyes of which not + being round, they were obliged to split the timber in such a manner that + thirteen of the handles broke in the course of the day, though made of the + best wood they could find for the purpose, which was the chokecherry. + </p> + <p> + “The rest of the party took the frame of the boat to pieces, deposited it + in a cache or hole, with a draught of the country from Fort Mandan to this + place, and also some other papers and small articles of less importance.” + </p> + <p> + High winds prevented the party from making rapid progress, and + notwithstanding the winds they were greatly troubled with mosquitoes. Lest + the reader should think the explorers too sensitive on the subject of + these troublesome pests, it should be said that only western travellers + can realize the numbers and venom of the mosquitoes of that region. Early + emigrants across the continent were so afflicted by these insects that the + air at times seemed full of gray clouds of them. It was the custom of the + wayfarers to build a “smudge,” as it was called, a low, smouldering fire + of green boughs and brush, the dense smoke from which (almost as annoying + as the mosquitoes) would drive off their persecutors as long, as the + victims sat in the smoke. The sleeping tent was usually cleared in this + way before “turning in” at night, every opening of the canvas being + afterwards closed. + </p> + <p> + Captain Lewis, on the thirteenth of July, followed Captain Clark up the + river; crossing the stream to the north bank, with his six canoes and all + his baggage, he overtook the other party on the same day and found them + all engaged in boat-building. + </p> + <p> + “On his way he passed a very large Indian lodge, which was probably + designed as a great council-house; but it differed in its construction + from all that we had seen, lower down the Missouri or elsewhere. The form + of it was a circle two hundred and sixteen feet in circumference at the + base; it was composed of sixteen large cottonwood poles about fifty feet + long and at their thicker ends, which touched the ground, about the size + of a man’s body. They were distributed at equal distances, except that one + was omitted to the cast, probably for the entrance. From the circumference + of this circle the poles converged toward the centre, where they were + united and secured by large withes of willow-brush. There was no covering + over this fabric, in the centre of which were the remains of a large fire, + and around it the marks of about eighty leathern lodges. He also saw a + number of turtle-doves, and some pigeons, of which he shot one, differing + in no respect from the wild pigeon of the United States. . . .” + </p> + <p> + “The buffalo have not yet quite gone, for the hunters brought in three, in + very good order. It requires some diligence to supply us plentifully, for + as we reserve our parched meal for the Rocky Mountains, where we do not + expect to find much game, our principal article of food is meat, and the + consumption of the whole thirty-two persons belonging to the party amounts + to four deer, an elk and a deer, or one buffalo, every twenty-four hours. + The mosquitoes and gnats persecute us as violently as below, so that we + can get no sleep unless defended by biers (nets), with which we are all + provided. We here found several plants hitherto unknown to us, of which we + preserved specimens.” + </p> + <p> + On the fourteenth of July, the boats were finally launched, and next day + the journal records this important event: + </p> + <p> + “We rose early, embarked all our baggage on board the canoes, which, + though eight in number, are heavily loaded, and at ten o’clock set out on + our journey. . . . At the distance of seven and a half miles we came to + the lower point of a woodland, at the entrance of a beautiful river, + which, in honor of the Secretary of the Navy, we called Smith’s River. + This stream falls into a bend on the south side of the Missouri, and is + eighty yards wide. As far as we could discern its course, it wound through + a charming valley towards the southeast, in which many herds of buffalo + were feeding, till, at the distance of twenty-five miles, it entered the + Rocky Mountains and was lost from our view. . . . + </p> + <p> + “We find the prickly pear, one of the greatest beauties as well as + greatest inconveniences of the plains, now in full bloom. The sunflower, + too, a plant common on every part of the Missouri from its entrance to + this place, is here very abundant, and in bloom. The lamb’s-quarter, wild + cucumber, sand-rush, and narrow dock, are also common.” + </p> + <p> + The journal here records the fact that the great river had now become so + crooked that it was expedient to note only its general course, leaving out + all description of its turns and windings. The Missouri was now flowing + due north, leaving its bends out of account, and the explorers, ascending + the river, were therefore travelling south; and although the journal sets + forth “the north bank” and “the south bank,” it should be understood that + west is meant by the one, and east by the other. Buffalo were observed in + great numbers. Many obstacles to navigating the river were encountered. + Under date of July 17, the journal says: + </p> + <p> + “The navigation is now very laborious. The river is deep, but with little + current, and from seventy to one hundred yards wide; the low grounds are + very narrow, with but little timber, and that chiefly the aspen tree. The + cliffs are steep, and hang over the river so much that often we could not + cross them, but were obliged to pass and repass from one side of the river + to the other, in order to make our way. In some places the banks are + formed of dark or black granite rising perpendicularly to a great height, + through which the river seems, in the progress of time, to have worn its + channel. On these mountains we see more pine than usual, but it is still + in small quantities. Along the bottoms, which have a covering of high + grass, we observed the sunflower blooming in great abundance. The Indians + of the Missouri, more especially those who do not cultivate maize, make + great use of the seed of this plant for bread, or in thickening their + soup. They first parch and then pound it between two stones, until it is + reduced to a fine meal. Sometimes they add a portion of water, and drink + it thus diluted; at other times they add a sufficient proportion of + marrow-grease to reduce it to the consistency of common dough, and eat it + in that manner. This last composition we preferred to all the rest, and + thought it at that time a very palatable dish.” + </p> + <p> + They also feasted on a great variety of wild berries, purple, yellow, and + black currants, which were delicious and more pleasant to the palate than + those grown in their Virginia home-gardens; also service-berries, + popularly known to later emigrants as “sarvice-berries.” These grow on + small bushes, two or three feet high; and the fruit is purple-skinned, + with a white pulp, resembling a ripe gooseberry. + </p> + <p> + The journal, next day, has the following entry:— + </p> + <p> + “This morning early, before our departure, we saw a large herd of the + big-horned animals, which were bounding among the rocks on the opposite + cliff with great agility. These inaccessible spots secure them from all + their enemies, and their only danger is in wandering among these + precipices, where we would suppose it scarcely possible for any animal to + stand; a single false step would precipitate them at least five hundred + feet into the water. + </p> + <p> + “At one and one fourth miles we passed another single cliff on the left; + at the same distance beyond which is the mouth of a large river emptying + from the north. It is a handsome, bold, and clear stream, eighty yards + wide—that is, nearly as broad as the Missouri—with a rapid + current, over a bed of small smooth stones of various figures. The water + is extremely transparent; the low grounds are narrow, but possess as much + wood as those of the Missouri. The river has every appearance of being + navigable, though to what distance we cannot ascertain, as the country + which it waters is broken and mountainous. In honor of the Secretary of + War we called it Dearborn’s River.” + </p> + <p> + General Henry Dearborn, who was then Secretary of War, in Jefferson’s + administration, gave his name, a few years later, to a collection of camps + and log-cabins on Lake Michigan; and in due time Fort Dearborn became the + great city of Chicago. Continuing, the journal says: + </p> + <p> + “Being now very anxious to meet with the Shoshonees or Snake Indians, for + the purpose of obtaining the necessary information of our route, as well + as to procure horses, it was thought best for one of us to go forward with + a small party and endeavor to discover them, before the daily discharge of + our guns, which is necessary for our subsistence, should give them notice + of our approach. If by an accident they hear us, they will most probably + retreat to the mountains, mistaking us for their enemies, who usually + attack them on this side.” . . . . . . . . . + </p> + <p> + Captain Clark was now in the lead with a small party, and he came upon the + remains of several Indian camps formed of willow-brush, Traces of Indians + became more plentiful. The journal adds:— + </p> + <p> + “At the same time Captain Clark observed that the pine trees had been + stripped of their bark about the same season, which our Indian woman says + her countrymen do in order to obtain the sap and the soft parts of the + wood and bark for food. About eleven o’clock he met a herd of elk and + killed two of them; but such was the want of wood in the neighborhood that + he was unable to procure enough to make a fire, and was therefore obliged + to substitute the dung of the buffalo, with which he cooked his breakfast. + They then resumed their course along an old Indian road. In the afternoon + they reached a handsome valley, watered by a large creek, both of which + extended a considerable distance into the mountain. This they crossed, and + during the evening travelled over a mountainous country covered with sharp + fragments of flint rock; these bruised and cut their feet very much, but + were scarcely less troublesome than the prickly-pear of the open plains, + which have now become so abundant that it is impossible to avoid them, and + the thorns are so strong that they pierce a double sole of dressed + deer-skin; the best resource against them is a sole of buffalo-hide in + parchment (that is, hard dried). At night they reached the river much + fatigued, having passed two mountains in the course of the day, and + travelled thirty miles. Captain Clark’s first employment, on lighting a + fire, was to extract from his feet the thorns, which he found seventeen in + number.” + </p> + <p> + The dung of the buffalo, exposed for many years to the action of sun, + wind, and rain, became as dry and firm as the finest compressed hay. As + “buffalo chips,” in these treeless regions, it was the overland emigrants’ + sole dependence for fuel. + </p> + <p> + The explorers now approached a wonderful pass in the Rocky Mountains which + their journal thus describes: + </p> + <p> + “A mile and a half beyond this creek (Cottonwood Creek) the rocks approach + the river on both sides, forming a most sublime and extraordinary + spectacle. For five and three quarter miles these rocks rise + perpendicularly from the water’s edge to the height of nearly twelve + hundred feet. They are composed of a black granite near their base, but + from the lighter color above, and from the fragments, we suppose the upper + part to be flint of a yellowish brown and cream color. + </p> + <p> + “Nothing can be imagined more tremendous than the frowning darkness of + these rocks, which project over the river and menace us with destruction. + The river, one hundred and fifty yards in width, seems to have forced its + channel down this solid mass; but so reluctantly has it given way, that + during the whole distance the water is very deep even at the edges, and + for the first three miles there is not a spot, except one of a few yards, + in which a man could stand between the water and the towering + perpendicular of the mountain. The convulsion of the passage must have + been terrible, since at its outlet there are vast columns of rock torn + from the mountain, which are strewed on both sides of the river, the + trophies, as it were, of its victory. Several fine springs burst out from + the chasms of the rock, and contribute to increase the river, which has a + strong current, but, very fortunately, we were able to overcome it with + our oars, since it would have been impossible to use either the cord or + the pole. We were obliged to go on some time after dark, not being able to + find a spot large enough to encamp on; but at length, about two miles + above a small island in the middle of the river, we met with a place on + the left side, where we procured plenty of light wood and pitch pine. This + extraordinary range of rocks we called the Gates of the Rocky Mountains.” + </p> + <p> + Some of Captain Clark’s men, engaged in hunting, gave the alarm to roving + bands of Shoshonee Indians, hunting in that vicinity. The noise of their + guns attracted the attention of the Indians, who, having set fire to the + grass as a warning to their comrades, fled to the mountains. The whole + country soon appeared to have taken fright, and great clouds of smoke were + observed in all directions. Falling into an old Indian trail, Captain + Clark waited, with his weary and footsore men, for the rest of the party + to come up with them. + </p> + <p> + The explorers had now passed south, between the Big Belt range of + mountains on the cast and the main chain of the Rocky Mountains on the + west. Meagher County, Montana, now lies on the cast of their trail, and on + the west side of that route is the county of Lewis and Clark. They were + now—still travelling southward—approaching the ultimate + sources of the great Missouri. The journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “We are delighted to find that the Indian woman recognizes the country; + she tells us that to this creek her countrymen make excursions to procure + white paint on its banks, and we therefore call it Whiteearth Creek. She + says also that the Three Forks of the Missouri are at no great distance—a + piece of intelligence which has cheered the spirits of us all, as we hope + soon to reach the head of that river. This is the warmest day, except one, + we have experienced this summer. In the shade the mercury stood at eighty + degrees, which is the second time it has reached that height during this + season. We camped on an island, after making nineteen and three quarters + miles. + </p> + <p> + “In the course of the day we saw many geese, cranes, small birds common to + the plains, and a few pheasants. We also observed a small plover or curlew + of a brown color, about the size of a yellow-legged plover or jack-curlew, + but of a different species. It first appeared near the mouth of Smith’s + River, but is so shy and vigilant that we were unable to shoot it. Both + the broad and narrow-leaved willow continue, though the sweet willow has + become very scarce. The rosebush, small honeysuckle, pulpy-leaved thorn, + southernwood, sage, box-elder, narrow-leaved cottonwood, redwood, and a + species of sumach, are all abundant. So, too, are the red and black + gooseberries, service-berry, choke-cherry, and the black, yellow, red, and + purple currants, which last seems to be a favorite food of the bear. + Before camping we landed and took on board Captain Clark, with the meat he + had collected during this day’s hunt, which consisted of one deer and an + elk; we had, ourselves, shot a deer and an antelope.” + </p> + <p> + The party found quantities of wild onions of good flavor and size. They + also observed wild flax, garlic, and other vegetable products of value. + The journal adds:— + </p> + <p> + “We saw many otter and beaver to-day (July 24th). The latter seem to + contribute very much to the number of islands, and the widening of the + river. They begin by damming up the small channels of about twenty yards + between the islands: this obliges the river to seek another outlet, and, + as soon as this is effected, the channel stopped by the beaver becomes + filled with mud and sand. The industrious animal is then driven to another + channel, which soon shares the same fate, till the river spreads on all + sides, and cuts the projecting points of the land into islands. We killed + a deer, and saw great numbers of antelopes, cranes, some geese, and a few + red-headed ducks. The small birds of the plains and the curlew are still + abundant: we saw a large bear, but could not come within gunshot of him. + There are numerous tracks of the elk, but none of the animals themselves; + and, from the appearance of bones and old excrement, we suppose that + buffalo sometimes stray into the valley, though we have as yet seen no + recent sign of them. Along the water are a number of snakes, some of a + uniform brown color, others black, and a third speckled on the abdomen, + and striped with black and a brownish yellow on the back and sides. The + first, which is the largest, is about four feet long; the second is of the + kind mentioned yesterday; and the third resembles in size and appearance + the garter-snake of the United States. On examining the teeth of all these + several kinds, we found them free from poison: they are fond of the water, + in which they take shelter on being pursued. The mosquitoes, gnats, and + prickly pear, our three persecutors, still continue with us, and, joined + with the labor of working the canoes, have fatigued us all excessively.” + </p> + <p> + On Thursday, July 25, Captain Clark, who was in the lead, as usual, + arrived at the famous Three Forks of the Missouri. The stream flowing in a + generally northeastern direction was the true, or principal Missouri, and + was named the Jefferson. The middle branch was named the Madison, in honor + of James Madison, then Secretary of State, and the fork next to the + eastward received the name of Albert Gallatin, then Secretary of the + Treasury; and by these titles the streams are known to this day. The + explorers had now passed down to their furthest southern limit, their + trail being to the eastward of the modern cities of Helena and Butte, and + separated only by a narrow divide (then unknown to them) from the sources + of some of the streams that fall into the Pacific Ocean. Under the date of + July 27, the journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “We are now very anxious to see the Snake Indians. After advancing for + several hundred miles into this wild and mountainous country, we may soon + expect that the game will abandon us. With no information of the route, we + may be unable to find a passage across the mountains when we reach the + head of the river—at least, such a pass as will lead us to the + Columbia. Even are we so fortunate as to find a branch of that river, the + timber which we have hitherto seen in these mountains does not promise us + any fit to make canoes, so that our chief dependence is on meeting some + tribe from whom we may procure horses. Our consolation is that this + southwest branch can scarcely head with any other river than the Columbia; + and that if any nation of Indians can live in the mountains we are able to + endure as much as they can, and have even better means of procuring + subsistence.” + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0012" id="link2HCH0012"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XII — At the Sources of the Missouri + </h2> + <p> + The explorers were now (in the last days of July, 1805) at the head of the + principal sources of the great Missouri River, in the fastnesses of the + Rocky Mountains, at the base of the narrow divide that separates Idaho + from Montana in its southern corner. Just across this divide are the + springs that feed streams falling into the majestic Columbia and then to + the Pacific Ocean. As has been already set forth, they named the Three + Forks for President Jefferson and members of his cabinet. These names + still survive, although Jefferson River is the true Missouri and not a + fork of that stream. Upon the forks of the Jefferson Lewis bestowed the + titles of Philosophy, Wisdom, and Philanthropy, each of these gifts and + graces being, in his opinion, “an attribute of that illustrious personage, + Thomas Jefferson,” then President of the United States. But alas for the + fleeting greatness of geographical honor! Philosophy River is now known as + Willow Creek, and at its mouth, a busy little railroad town, is Willow + City. The northwest fork is no longer Wisdom, but Big Hole River; deep + valleys among the mountains are known as holes; and the stream called by + that name, once Wisdom, is followed along its crooked course by a railroad + that connects Dillon, Silver Bow, and Butte City, Montana. Vulgarity does + its worst for Philanthropy; its modern name on the map is Stinking Water. + </p> + <p> + On the thirtieth of July, the party, having camped long enough to unpack + and dry their goods, dress their deerskins and make them into leggings and + moccasins, reloaded their canoes and began the toilsome ascent of the + Jefferson. The journal makes this record:— + </p> + <p> + “Sacajawea, our Indian woman, informs us that we are encamped on the + precise spot where her countrymen, the Snake Indians, had their huts five + years ago, when the Minnetarees of Knife River first came in sight of + them, and from whom they hastily retreated three miles up the Jefferson, + and concealed themselves in the woods. The Minnetarees, however, pursued + and attacked them, killed four men, as many women, and a number of boys; + and made prisoners of four other boys and all the females, of whom + Sacajawea was one. She does not, however, show any distress at these + recollections, nor any joy at the prospect of being restored to her + country; for she seems to possess the folly, or the philosophy, of not + suffering her feelings to extend beyond the anxiety of having plenty to + eat and a few trinkets to wear. + </p> + <p> + “This morning the hunters brought in some fat deer of the long-tailed red + kind, which are quite as large as those of the United States, and are, + indeed, the only kind we have found at this place. There are numbers of + the sand-hill cranes feeding in the meadows: we caught a young one of the + same color as the red deer, which, though it had nearly attained its full + growth, could not fly; it is very fierce, and strikes a severe blow with + its beak. . . . + </p> + <p> + “Captain Lewis proceeded after dinner through an extensive low ground of + timber and meadow-land intermixed; but the bayous were so obstructed by + beaver-dams that, in order to avoid them, he directed his course toward + the high plain on the right. This he gained with some difficulty, after + wading up to his waist through the mud and water of a number of + beaver-dams. When he desired to rejoin the canoes he found the underbrush + so thick, and the river so crooked, that this, joined to the difficulty of + passing the beaver-dams, induced him to go on and endeavor to intercept + the river at some point where it might be more collected into one channel, + and approach nearer the high plain. He arrived at the bank about sunset, + having gone only six miles in a direct course from the canoes; but he saw + no traces of the men, nor did he receive any answer to his shouts and the + firing of his gun. It was now nearly dark; a duck lighted near him, and he + shot it. He then went on the head of a small island, where he found some + driftwood, which enabled him to cook his duck for supper, and laid down to + sleep on some willow-brush. The night was cool, but the driftwood gave him + a good fire, and he suffered no inconvenience, except from the + mosquitoes.” + </p> + <p> + The easy indifference to discomfort with which these well-seasoned + pioneers took their hardships must needs impress the reader. It was a + common thing for men, or for a solitary man, to be caught out of camp by + nightfall and compelled to bivouac, like Captain Lewis, in the underbrush, + or the prairie-grass. As they pressed on, game began to fail them. Under + date of July 31, they remark that the only game seen that day was one + bighorn, a few antelopes, deer, and a brown bear, all of which escaped + them. “Nothing was killed to-day,” it is recorded, “nor have we had any + fresh meat except one beaver for the last two days; so that we are now + reduced to an unusual situation, for we have hitherto always had a great + abundance of flesh.” Indeed, one reason for this is found in Captain + Lewis’s remark: “When we have plenty of fresh meat, I find it impossible + to make the men take any care of it, or use it with the least frugality, + though I expect that necessity will shortly teach them this art.” We shall + see, later on, that the men, who were really as improvident of food as the + Indians, had hard lessons from necessity. + </p> + <p> + Anxious to reach the Indians, who were believed to be somewhere ahead of + them, Captain Lewis and three men went on up the Jefferson, Captain Clark + and his party following with the canoes and luggage in a more leisurely + manner. The advance party were so fortunate as to overtake a herd of elk, + two of which they killed; what they did not eat they left secured for the + other party with the canoes. Clark’s men also had good luck in hunting, + for they killed five deer and one bighorn. Neither party found fresh + tracks of Indians, and they were greatly discouraged thereat. The journal + speaks of a beautiful valley, from six to eight miles wide, where they saw + ancient traces of buffalo occupation, but no buffalo. These animals had + now completely disappeared; they were seldom seen in those mountains. The + journal says of Lewis:— + </p> + <p> + “He saw an abundance of deer and antelope, and many tracks of elk and + bear. Having killed two deer, they feasted sumptuously, with a dessert of + currants of different colors—two species red, others yellow, deep + purple, and black; to these were added black gooseberries and deep purple + service-berries, somewhat larger than ours, from which they differ also in + color, size, and the superior excellence of their flavor. In the low + grounds of the river were many beaver-dams formed of willow-brush, mud, + and gravel, so closely interwoven that they resist the water perfectly; + some of them were five feet high, and caused the river to overflow several + acres of land.” + </p> + <p> + Meanwhile, the party with the canoes were having a fatiguing time as they + toiled up the river. On the fourth of August, after they had made only + fifteen miles, the journal has this entry:— + </p> + <p> + “The river is still rapid, and the water, though clear, is very much + obstructed by shoals or ripples at every two hundred or three hundred + yards. At all these places we are obliged to drag the canoes over the + stones, as there is not a sufficient depth of water to float them, and in + the other parts the current obliges us to have recourse to the cord. But + as the brushwood on the banks will not permit us to walk on shore, we are + under the necessity of wading through the river as we drag the boats. This + soon makes our feet tender, and sometimes occasions severe falls over the + slippery stones; and the men, by being constantly wet, are becoming more + feeble. In the course of the day the hunters killed two deer, some geese + and ducks, and the party saw some antelopes, cranes, beaver, and otter.” + </p> + <p> + Captain Lewis had left a note for Captain Clark at the forks of the + Jefferson and Wisdom rivers. Clark’s journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “We arrived at the forks about four o’clock, but, unluckily, Captain + Lewis’s note had been attached to a green pole, which the beaver had cut + down, and carried off with the note on it: an accident which deprived us + of all information as to the character of the two branches of the river. + Observing, therefore, that the northwest fork was most in our direction, + we ascended it. We found it extremely rapid, and its waters were scattered + in such a manner that for a quarter of a mile we were forced to cut a + passage through the willow-brush that leaned over the little channels and + united at the top. After going up it for a mile, we encamped on an island + which had been overflowed, and was still so wet that we were compelled to + make beds of brush to keep ourselves out of the mud. Our provision + consisted of two deer which had been killed in the morning.” + </p> + <p> + It should be borne in mind that this river, up which the party were making + their way, was the Wisdom (now Big Hole), and was the northwest fork of + the Jefferson, flowing from southeast to northwest; and near the point + where it enters the Jefferson, it has a loop toward the northeast; that is + to say, it comes from the southwest to a person looking up its mouth. + </p> + <p> + After going up the Wisdom River, Clark’s party were overtaken by Drewyer, + Lewis’s hunter, who had been sent across between the forks to notify Clark + that Lewis regarded the other fork—the main Jefferson—as the + right course to take. The party, accordingly, turned about and began to + descend the stream, in order to ascend the Jefferson. The journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “On going down, one of the canoes upset and two others filled with water, + by which all the baggage was wet and several articles were irrecoverably + lost. As one of them swung round in a rapid current, Whitehouse was thrown + out of her; while down, the canoe passed over him, and had the water been + two inches shallower would have crushed him to pieces; but he escaped with + a severe bruise of his leg. In order to repair these misfortunes we + hastened (down) to the forks, where we were joined by Captain Lewis. We + then passed over to the left (east) side, opposite the entrance of the + rapid fork, and camped on a large gravelly bar, near which there was + plenty of wood. Here we opened, and exposed to dry, all the articles which + had suffered from the water; none of them were completely spoiled except a + small keg of powder; the rest of the powder, which was distributed in the + different canoes, was quite safe, although it had been under the water for + upward of an hour. The air is indeed so pure and dry that any wood-work + immediately shrinks, unless it is kept filled with water; but we had + placed our powder in small canisters of lead, each containing powder + enough for the canister when melted into bullets, and secured with cork + and wax, which answered our purpose perfectly. . . .” + </p> + <p> + “In the evening we killed three deer and four elk, which furnished us once + more with a plentiful supply of meat. Shannon, the same man who had been + lost for fifteen days (August 28 to Sept. 11, 1804), was sent out this + morning to hunt, up the northwest fork. When we decided on returning, + Drewyer was directed to go in quest of him, but he returned with + information that he had gone several miles up the (Wisdom) river without + being able to find Shannon. We now had the trumpet sounded, and fired + several guns; but he did not return, and we fear he is again lost.” + </p> + <p> + This man, although an expert hunter, had an unlucky habit of losing + himself in the wilderness, as many another good man has lost himself among + the mountains or the great plains. This time, however, he came into camp + again, after being lost three days. + </p> + <p> + On the eighth of August the party reached a point now known by its famous + landmark, Beaver Head, a remarkable rocky formation which gives its name + to Beaverhead County, Montana. The Indian woman, Sacajawea, recognized the + so-called beaver-head, which, she said, was not far from the summer + retreat of her countrymen, living on the other side of the mountains. The + whole party were now together again, the men with the canoes having come + up; and the journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “Persuaded of the absolute necessity of procuring horses to cross the + mountains, it was determined that one of us should proceed in the morning + to the head of the river, and penetrate the mountains till he found the + Shoshonees or some other nation who can assist us in transporting our + baggage, the greater part of which we shall be compelled to leave without + the aid of horses.”. . . + </p> + <p> + Early the next day Captain Lewis took Drewyer, Shields, and M’Neal, and, + slinging their knapsacks, they set out with a resolution to meet some + nation of Indians before they returned, however long they might be + separated from the party. + </p> + <p> + The party in the canoes continued to ascend the river, which was so + crooked that they advanced but four miles in a direct line from their + starting-place in a distance of eleven miles. In this manner, the party on + foot leading those with the canoes, they repeatedly explored the various + forks of the streams, which baffled them by their turnings and windings. + Lewis was in the advance, and Clark brought up the rear with the main + body. It was found necessary for the leading party to wade the streams, + and occasionally they were compelled by the roughness of the way to leave + the water-course and take to the hills, where great vigilance was required + to keep them in sight of the general direction in which they must travel. + On the 11th of August, 1805, Captain Lewis came in sight of the first + Indian encountered since leaving the country of the Minnetarees, far back + on the Missouri. The journal of that date says: + </p> + <p> + “On examining him with the glass Captain Lewis saw that he was of a + different nation from any Indians we had hitherto met. He was armed with a + bow and a quiver of arrows, and mounted on an elegant horse without a + saddle; a small string attached to the under jaw answered as a bridle. + </p> + <p> + “Convinced that he was a Shoshonee, and knowing how much our success + depended on the friendly offices of that nation, Captain Lewis was full of + anxiety to approach without alarming him, and endeavor to convince him + that he (Lewis) was a white man. He therefore proceeded toward the Indian + at his usual pace. When they were within a mile of each other the Indian + suddenly stopped. Captain Lewis immediately followed his example, took his + blanket from his knapsack, and, holding it with both hands at the two + corners, threw it above his head, and unfolded it as he brought it to the + ground, as if in the act of spreading it. This signal, which originates in + the practice of spreading a robe or skin as a seat for guests to whom they + wish to show a distinguished kindness, is the universal sign of friendship + among the Indians on the Missouri and the Rocky Mountains. As usual, + Captain Lewis repeated this signal three times: still the Indian kept his + position, and looked with an air of suspicion on Drewyer and Shields, who + were now advancing on each side. Captain Lewis was afraid to make any + signal for them to halt, lest he should increase the distrust of the + Indian, who began to be uneasy, and they were too distant to hear his + voice. He therefore took from his pack some beads, a looking-glass, and a + few trinkets, which he had brought for the purpose, and, leaving his gun, + advanced unarmed towards the Indian. He remained in the same position till + Captain Lewis came within two hundred yards of him, when he turned his + horse and began to move off slowly. Captain Lewis then called out to him + in as loud a voice as he could, repeating the words tabba bone, which in + the Shoshonee language mean white man. But, looking over his shoulder, the + Indian kept his eyes on Drewyer and Shields, who were still advancing, + without recollecting the impropriety of doing so at such a moment, till + Captain Lewis made a signal to them to halt: this Drewyer obeyed, but + Shields did not observe it, and still went forward. Seeing Drewyer halt, + the Indian turned his horse about as if to wait for Captain Lewis, who now + reached within one hundred and fifty paces, repeating the words tabba + bone, and holding up the trinkets in his hand, at the same time stripping + up the sleeve of his shirt to show the color of his skin. The Indian + suffered him to advance within one hundred paces, then suddenly turned his + horse, and, giving him the whip, leaped across the creek, and disappeared + in an instant among the willow bushes: with him vanished all the hopes + which the sight of him had inspired, of a friendly introduction to his + countrymen.” + </p> + <p> + Sadly disappointed by the clumsy imprudence of his men, Captain Lewis now + endeavored to follow the track of the retreating Indian, hoping that this + might lead them to an encampment, or village, of the Shoshonees. He also + built a fire, the smoke of which might attract the attention of the + Indians. At the same time, he placed on a pole near the fire a small + assortment of beads, trinkets, awls, and paints, in order that the + Indians, if they returned that way, might discover them and be thereby + assured the strangers were white men and friends. Next morning, while + trying to follow the trail of the lone Indian, they found traces of + freshly turned earth where people had been digging for roots; and, later + on, they came upon the fresh track of eight or ten horses. But these were + soon scattered, and the explorers only found that the general direction of + the trails was up into the mountains which define the boundary between + Montana and Idaho. Skirting the base of these mountains (the Bitter Root), + the party endeavored to find a plain trail, or Indian road, leading up to + a practicable pass. Travelling in a southwesterly direction along the main + stream, they entered a valley which led into the mountains. Here they ate + their last bit of fresh meat, the remainder of a deer they had killed a + day or two before; they reserved for their final resort, in case of + famine, a small piece of salt pork. The journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “They then continued through the low bottom, along the main stream, near + the foot of the mountains on their right. For the first five miles, the + valley continues toward the southwest, being from two to three miles in + width; then the main stream, which had received two small branches from + the left in the valley, turned abruptly to the west through a narrow + bottom between the mountains. The road was still plain, and, as it led + them directly on toward the mountain, the stream gradually became smaller, + till, after going two miles, it had so greatly diminished in width that + one of the men, in a fit of enthusiasm, with one foot on each side of the + river, thanked God that he had lived to bestride the Missouri. As they + went along their hopes of soon seeing the Columbia (that is, the Pacific + watershed) arose almost to painful anxiety, when after four miles from the + last abrupt turn of the river (which turn had been to the west), they + reached a small gap formed by the high mountains, which recede on each + side, leaving room for the Indian road. From the foot of one of the lowest + of these mountains, which rises with a gentle ascent of about half a mile, + issues the remotest water of the Missouri. + </p> + <p> + “They had now reached the hidden sources of that river, which had never + yet been seen by civilized man. As they quenched their thirst at the + chaste and icy fountain—as they sat down by the brink of that little + rivulet, which yielded its distant and modest tribute to the parent ocean—they + felt themselves rewarded for all their labors and all their difficulties. + </p> + <p> + “They left reluctantly this interesting spot, and, pursuing the Indian + road through the interval of the hills, arrived at the top of a ridge, + from which they saw high mountains, partially covered with snow, still to + the west of them. + </p> + <p> + “The ridge on which they stood formed the dividing line between the waters + of the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. They followed a descent much steeper + than that on the eastern side, and at the distance of three-quarters of a + mile reached a handsome, bold creek of cold, clear water running to the + westward. They stopped to taste, for the first time, the waters of the + Columbia; and, after a few minutes, followed the road across steep hills + and low hollows, when they came to a spring on the side of a mountain. + Here they found a sufficient quantity of dry willow-brush for fuel, and + therefore halted for the night; and, having killed nothing in the course + of the day, supped on their last piece of pork, and trusted to fortune for + some other food to mix with a little flour and parched meal, which was all + that now remained of their provisions.” + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0013" id="link2HCH0013"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XIII — From the Minnetarees to the Shoshonees + </h2> + <p> + Travelling in a westerly direction, with a very gradual descent, Captain + Lewis, on the thirteenth of August, came upon two Indian women, a man, and + some dogs. The Indians sat down when the strangers first came in sight, as + if to wait for their coming; but, soon taking alarm, they all fled, much + to the chagrin of the white men. Now striking into a well-worn Indian + road, they found themselves surely near a village. The journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “They had not gone along the road more than a mile, when on a sudden they + saw three female Indians, from whom they had been concealed by the deep + ravines which intersected the road, till they were now within thirty paces + of each other. One of them, a young woman, immediately took to flight; the + other two, an elderly woman and a little girl, seeing they were too near + for them to escape, sat on the ground, and holding down their heads seemed + as if reconciled to the death which they supposed awaited them. The same + habit of holding down the head and inviting the enemy to strike, when all + chance of escape is gone, is preserved in Egypt to this day. + </p> + <p> + “Captain Lewis instantly put down his rifle, and advancing toward them, + took the woman by the hand, raised her up, and repeated the words ‘tabba + bone!’ at the same time stripping up his shirt-sleeve to prove that he was + a white man—for his hands and face had become by constant exposure + quite as dark as their own. She appeared immediately relieved from her + alarm; and Drewyer and Shields now coming up, Captain Lewis gave them some + beads, a few awls, pewter mirrors, and a little paint, and told Drewyer to + request the woman to recall her companion, who had escaped to some + distance and, by alarming the Indians, might cause them to attack him + without any time for explanation. She did as she was desired, and the + young woman returned almost out of breath. Captain Lewis gave her an equal + portion of trinkets, and painted the tawny checks of all three of them + with vermilion,—a ceremony which among the Shoshonees is emblematic + of peace. + </p> + <p> + “After they had become composed, he informed them by signs of his wishes + to go to their camp, in order to see their chiefs and warriors; they + readily obeyed, and conducted the party along the same road down the + river. In this way they marched two miles, when they met a troop of nearly + sixty warriors, mounted on excellent horses, riding at full speed toward + them. As they advanced Captain Lewis put down his gun, and went with the + flag about fifty paces in advance. The chief, who with two men was riding + in front of the main body, spoke to the women, who now explained that the + party was composed of white men, and showed exultingly the presents they + had received. The three men immediately leaped from their horses, came up + to Captain Lewis, and embraced him with great cordiality, putting their + left arm over his right shoulder, and clasping his back, applying at the + same time their left cheek to his, and frequently vociferating ah hi e! ah + hi e! ‘I am much pleased, I am much rejoiced.’ The whole body of warriors + now came forward, and our men received the caresses, and no small share of + the grease and paint, of their new friends. After this fraternal embrace, + of which the motive was much more agreeable than the manner, Captain Lewis + lighted a pipe, and offered it to the Indians, who had now seated + themselves in a circle around the party. But, before they would receive + this mark of friendship, they pulled off their moccasins: a custom, as we + afterward learned, which indicates the sacred sincerity of their + professions when they smoke with a stranger, and which imprecates on + themselves the misery of going barefoot forever if they prove faithless to + their words—a penalty by no means light for those who rove over the + thorny plains of this country. . . . + </p> + <p> + “After smoking a few pipes, some trifling presents were distributed among + them, with which they seemed very much pleased, particularly with the blue + beads and the vermilion. Captain Lewis then stated to the chief that the + object of his visit was friendly, and should be explained as soon as he + reached their camp; and that, as the sun was oppressive, and no water + near, he wished to go there as soon as possible. They now put on their + moccasins, and their chief, whose name was Cameahwait, made a short speech + to the warriors. Captain Lewis then gave him the flag, which he informed + him was among white men the emblem of peace; and, now that he had received + it, was to be in future the bond of union between them. The chief then + moved on; our party followed him; and the rest of the warriors, in a + squadron, brought up the rear.” + </p> + <p> + Arriving at the village, the ceremony of smoking the pipe of peace was + solemnly observed; and the women and children of the tribe were permitted + to gaze with wonder on the first white men they had ever seen. The Indians + were not much better provided with food than were their half-famished + visitors. But some cakes made of service-berries and choke-berries dried + in the sun were presented to the white men “on which,” says Captain Lewis, + “we made a hearty meal.” Later in the day, however, an Indian invited + Captain Lewis into his wigwam and treated him to a small morsel of boiled + antelope and a piece of fresh salmon roasted. This was the first salmon he + had seen, and the captain was now assured that he was on the headwaters of + the Columbia. This stream was what is now known as the Lemhi River. The + water was clear and limpid, flowing down a bed of gravel; its general + direction was a little north of west. The journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “The chief informed him that this stream discharged, at the distance of + half a day’s march, into another (Salmon River) of twice its size, coming + from the southwest; but added, on further inquiry, that there was scarcely + more timber below the junction of those rivers than in this neighborhood, + and that the river was rocky, rapid, and so closely confined between high + mountains that it was impossible to pass down it either by land or water + to the great lake (Pacific Ocean), where, as he had understood, the white + men lived. + </p> + <p> + “This information was far from being satisfactory, for there was no timber + here that would answer the purpose of building canoes,—indeed not + more than just sufficient for fuel; and even that consisted of the + narrow-leaved cottonwood, the red and the narrow-leaved willow, + chokecherry, service-berry, and a few currant bushes, such as are common + on the Missouri. The prospect of going on by land is more pleasant, for + there are great numbers of horses feeding in every direction round the + camp, which will enable us to transport our stores, if necessary, over the + mountains.” + </p> + <p> + While Captain Lewis was thus engaged, his companions in the canoes were + slowly and laboriously ascending the river on the other side of the + divide. The character of the stream was much as it had been for several + days, and the men were in the water three-fourths of the time, dragging + the boats over the shoals. They had but little success in killing game, + but caught, as they had done for some days before, numbers of fine trout. + </p> + <p> + “August 14. In order to give time for the boats to reach the forks of + Jefferson River,” proceeds the narrative, “Captain Lewis determined to + remain where he was, and obtain all the information he could collect in + regard to the country. Having nothing to eat but a little flour and + parched meal, with the berries of the Indians, he sent out Drewyer and + Shields, who borrowed horses from the natives, to hunt for a few hours. + About the same time the young warriors set out for the same purpose. There + are but few elk or black tailed deer in this neighborhood; and as the + common red deer secrete themselves in the bushes when alarmed, they are + soon safe from the arrows, which are but feeble weapons against any + animals which the huntsmen cannot previously run down with their horses. + The chief game of the Shoshonees, therefore, is the antelope, which, when + pursued, retreats to the open plains, where the horses have full room for + the chase. But such is its extraordinary fleetness and wind, that a single + horse has no possible chance of outrunning it or tiring it down, and the + hunters are therefore obliged to resort to stratagem. + </p> + <p> + “About twenty Indians, mounted on fine horses, and armed with bows and + arrows, left the camp. In a short time they descried a herd of ten + antelope: they immediately separated into little squads of two or three, + and formed a scattered circle round the herd for five or six miles, + keeping at a wary distance, so as not to alarm them till they were + perfectly enclosed, and selecting, as far as possible, some commanding + eminence as a stand. Having gained their positions, a small party rode + towards the animals, and with wonderful dexterity the huntsmen preserved + their seats, and the horses their footing, as they ran at full speed over + the hills, down the steep ravines, and along the borders of the + precipices. They were soon outstripped by the antelopes, which, on gaining + the other extremity of the circle, were driven back and pursued by the + fresh hunters. They turned and flew, rather than ran, in another + direction; but there, too, they found new enemies. In this way they were + alternately pursued backward and forward, till at length, notwithstanding + the skill of the hunters, they all escaped and the party, after running + for two hours, returned without having caught anything, and their horses + foaming with sweat. This chase, the greater part of which was seen from + the camp, formed a beautiful scene; but to the hunters it is exceedingly + laborious, and so unproductive, even when they are able to worry the + animal down and shoot him, that forty or fifty hunters will sometimes be + engaged for half a day without obtaining more than two or three antelope. + </p> + <p> + “Soon after they returned, our two huntsmen came in with no better + success. Captain Lewis therefore made a little paste with the flour, and + the addition of some berries formed a very palatable repast. Having now + secured the good will of Cameahwait, Captain Lewis informed him of his + wish that he would speak to the warriors, and endeavor to engage them to + accompany him to the forks of Jefferson River; where by this time another + chief (Clark), with a large party of white men, was awaiting his (Lewis’) + return; that it would be necessary to take about thirty horses to + transport the merchandise; that they should be well rewarded for their + trouble; and that, when all the party should have reached the Shoshonee + camp, they would remain some time among them to trade for horses, as well + as concert plans for furnishing them in future with regular supplies of + merchandise. He readily consented to do so, and after collecting the tribe + together, he made a long harangue. In about an hour and a half he + returned, and told Captain Lewis that they would be ready to accompany him + in the morning.” + </p> + <p> + But the Indians were suspicious and reluctant to take the word of the + white man. Captain Lewis, almost at his wits’ end, appealed to their + courage. He said that if they were afraid of being led into a trap, he was + sure that some among them were not afraid. + </p> + <p> + “To doubt the courage of an Indian is to touch the tenderest string of his + mind, and the surest way to rouse him to any dangerous achievement. + Cameahwait instantly replied that he was not afraid to die, and mounting + his horse, for the third time harangued the warriors. He told them that he + was resolved to go if he went alone, or if he were sure of perishing; that + he hoped there were among those who heard him some who were not afraid to + die, and who would prove it by mounting their horses and following him. + This harangue produced an effect on six or eight only of the warriors, who + now joined their chief. With these Captain Lewis smoked a pipe; and then, + fearful of some change in their capricious temper, set out immediately.” + </p> + <p> + The party now retraced the steps so lately taken by Captain Lewis and his + men. On the second day out, one of the spies sent forward by the Indians + came madly galloping back, much to the alarm of the white men. It proved, + however, that the spy had returned to tell his comrades that one of the + white hunters (Drewyer) had killed a deer. An Indian riding behind Captain + Lewis, fearful that he should not get his share of the spoil, jumped off + the horse and ran for a mile at full speed. The journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “Captain Lewis slackened his pace, and followed at a sufficient distance + to observe them. When they reached the place where Drewyer had thrown out + the intestines, they all dismounted in confusion and ran tumbling over + each other like famished dogs. Each tore away whatever part he could, and + instantly began to eat it. Some had the liver, some the kidneys—in + short, no part on which we are accustomed to look with disgust escaped + them. One of them, who had seized about nine feet of the entrails, was + chewing at one end, while with his hand he was diligently clearing his way + by discharging the contents at the other. It was indeed impossible to see + these wretches ravenously feeding on the filth of animals, the blood + streaming from their mouths, without deploring how nearly the condition of + savages approaches that of the brute creation. Yet, though suffering with + hunger, they did not attempt, as they might have done, to take by force + the whole deer, but contented themselves with what had been thrown away by + the hunter. Captain Lewis now had the deer skinned, and after reserving a + quarter of it gave the rest of the animal to the chief, to be divided + among the Indians, who immediately devoured nearly the whole of it without + cooking. They now went toward the (Prairie) creek, where there was some + brushwood to make a fire, and found Drewyer, who had killed a second deer. + The same struggle for the entrails was renewed here, and on giving nearly + the whole deer to the Indians, they devoured it even to the soft part of + the hoofs. A fire being made, Captain Lewis had his breakfast, during + which Drewyer brought in a third deer. This too, after reserving + one-quarter, was given to the Indians, who now seemed completely satisfied + and in good humor.” + </p> + <p> + They now approached the forks of the Jefferson, where they had expected to + meet Clark and his party with the canoes. Not seeing any signs of them, + the Lewis party were placed in a critical position. The Indians were again + alarmed and suspicious. Here Captain Clark’s journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “As they went on towards the point, Captain Lewis, perceiving how critical + his situation had become, resolved to attempt a stratagem, which his + present difficulty seemed completely to justify. Recollecting the notes he + had left at the point for us, he sent Drewyer for them with an Indian, who + witnessed his taking them from the pole. When they were brought, Captain + Lewis told Cameahwait that, on leaving his brother chief at the place + where the river issues from the mountains, it was agreed that the boats + should not be brought higher than the next forks we should meet; but that, + if the rapid water prevented the boats from coming on as fast as they + expected, his brother chief was to send a note to the first forks above + him, to let him know where they were: that this note had been left this + morning at the forks, and mentioned that the canoes were just below the + mountains, and coming up slowly in consequence of the current. Captain + Lewis added that he would stay at the forks for his brother chief, but + would send a man down the river; and that if Cameahwait doubted what he + said, one of their young men could go with him, while he and the other two + remained at the forks. This story satisfied the chief and the greater part + of the Indians; but a few did not conceal their suspicions, observing that + we told different stories, and complaining that their chief exposed them + to danger by a mistaken confidence. Captain Lewis now wrote, by the light + of some willow-brush, a note to Captain Clark, which he gave to Drewyer, + with an order to use all possible expedition in descending the river, and + engaged an Indian to accompany him by the promise of a knife and some + beads. + </p> + <p> + “At bedtime the chief and five others slept round the fire of Captain + Lewis, and the rest hid themselves in different parts of the willow-brush + to avoid the enemy, who, they feared, would attack them in the night. + Captain Lewis endeavored to assume a cheerfulness he did not feel, to + prevent the despondency of the savages. After conversing gayly with them + he retired to his mosquito-bier, by the side of which the chief now placed + himself. He lay down, yet slept but little, being in fact scarcely less + uneasy than his Indian companions. He was apprehensive that, finding the + ascent of the river impracticable, Captain Clark might have stopped below + Rattlesnake bluff, and the messenger would not meet him. The consequence + of disappointing the Indians at this moment would most probably be that + they would retire and secrete themselves in the mountains, so as to + prevent our having an opportunity of recovering their confidence. They + would also spread a panic through all the neighboring Indians, and cut us + off from the supply of horses so useful and almost so essential to our + success. He was at the same time consoled by remembering that his hopes of + assistance rested on better foundations than their generosity—their + avarice and their curiosity. He had promised liberal exchanges for their + horses; but what was still more seductive, he had told them that one of + their countrywomen, who had been taken with the Minnetarees, accompanied + the party below; and one of the men had spread the report of our having + with us a man (York) perfectly black, whose hair was short and curled. + This last account had excited a great degree of curiosity, and they seemed + more desirous of seeing this monster than of obtaining the most favorable + barter for their horses.” + </p> + <p> + On the following day, August 17, the two parties of explorers finally met. + Under that date the journal has this interesting entry:— + </p> + <p> + “Captain Lewis rose very early and despatched Drewyer and the Indian down + the river in quest of the boats. Shields was sent out at the same time to + hunt, while M’Neal prepared a breakfast out of the remainder of the meat. + Drewyer had been gone about two hours, and the Indians were all anxiously + waiting for some news, when an Indian, who had straggled a short distance + down the river, returned with a report that he had seen the white men, who + were only a short distance below, and were coming on. The Indians were + transported with joy, and the chief, in the warmth of his satisfaction, + renewed his embrace to Captain Lewis, who was quite as much delighted as + the Indians themselves. The report proved most agreeably true. + </p> + <p> + “On setting out at seven o’clock, Captain Clark, with Chaboneau and his + wife, walked on shore; but they had not gone more than a mile before + Captain Clark saw Sacajawea, who was with her husband one hundred yards + ahead, begin to dance and show every mark of the most extravagant joy, + turning round to him and pointing to several Indians, whom he now saw + advancing on horseback, sucking her fingers at the same time, to indicate + that they were of her native tribe. As they advanced, Captain Clark + discovered among them Drewyer dressed like an Indian, from whom he learned + the situation of the party. While the boats were performing the circuit, + he went toward the forks with the Indians, who, as they went along, sang + aloud with the greatest appearance of delight. + </p> + <p> + “We soon drew near the camp, and just as we approached it a woman made her + way through the crowd toward Sacajawea; recognizing each other, they + embraced with the most tender affection. The meeting of these two young + women had in it something peculiarly touching, not only from the ardent + manner in which their feelings were expressed, but also from the real + interest of their situation. They had been companions in childhood; in the + war with the Minnetarees they had both been taken prisoners in the same + battle; they had shared and softened the rigors of their captivity till + one of them had escaped from their enemies with scarce a hope of ever + seeing her friend rescued from their hands. + </p> + <p> + “While Sacajawea was renewing among the women the friendships of former + days, Captain Clark went on, and was received by Captain Lewis and the + chief, who, after the first embraces and salutations were over, conducted + him to a sort of circular tent or shade of willows. Here he was seated on + a white robe; and the chief immediately tied in his hair six small shells + resembling pearls, an ornament highly valued by these people, who procure + them in the course of trade from the seacoast. The moccasins of the whole + party were then taken off, and, after much ceremony, the smoking began. + After this the conference was to be opened; and, glad of an opportunity of + being able to converse more intelligibly, Sacajawea was sent for: she came + into the tent, sat down, and was beginning to interpret, when in the + person of Cameahwait she recognized her brother. She instantly jumped up, + and ran and embraced him, throwing over him her blanket, and weeping + profusely: the chief was himself moved, though not in the same degree. + After some conversation between them she resumed her seat, and attempted + to interpret for us; but her new situation seemed to overpower her, and + she was frequently interrupted by her tears. After the council was + finished, the unfortunate woman learned that all her family were dead + except two brothers, one of whom was absent, and a son of her eldest + sister, a small boy, who was immediately adopted by her.” + </p> + <p> + The two parties, Indian and white, now went into a conference, the white + chiefs explaining that it would be needful for their Indian friends to + collect all their horses and help to transport the goods of the explorers + over the Great Divide. The journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “The speech made a favorable impression. The chief, in reply, thanked us + for our expressions of friendship toward himself and his nation, and + declared their willingness to render us every service. He lamented that it + would be so long before they should be supplied with firearms, but that + till then they could subsist as they had heretofore done. He concluded by + saying that there were not horses enough here to transport our goods, but + that he would return to the village to-morrow, bring all his own horses, + and encourage his people to come over with theirs. The conference being + ended to our satisfaction, we now inquired of Cameahwait what chiefs were + among the party, and he pointed out two of them. We then distributed our + presents: to Cameahwait we gave a medal of small size, with the likeness + of President Jefferson, and on the reverse a figure of hands clasped with + a pipe and tomahawk; to this was added an uniform coat, a shirt, a pair of + scarlet leggings, a carrot (or twist) of tobacco, and some small articles. + Each of the other chiefs received a small medal struck during the + presidency of General Washington, a shirt, handkerchief, leggings, knife, + and some tobacco. Medals of the same sort were also presented to two young + warriors, who, though not chiefs, were promising youths and very much + respected in the tribe. These honorary gifts were followed by presents of + paint, moccasins, awls, knives, beads, and looking-glasses. We also gave + them all a plentiful meal of Indian corn, of which the hull is taken off + by being boiled in lye; as this was the first they had ever tasted, they + were very much pleased with it. They had, indeed, abundant sources of + surprise in all they saw—the appearance of the men, their arms, + their clothing, the canoes, the strange looks of the negro, and the + sagacity of our dog, all in turn shared their admiration, which was raised + to astonishment by a shot from the air-gun. This operation was instantly + considered ‘great medicine,’ by which they, as well as the other Indians, + mean something emanating directly from the Great Spirit, or produced by + his invisible and incomprehensible agency. . . . + </p> + <p> + “After the council was over we consulted as to our future operations. The + game did not promise to last here for many days; and this circumstance + combined with many others to induce our going on as soon as possible. Our + Indian information as to the state of the Columbia was of a very alarming + kind; and our first object was, of course, to ascertain the practicability + of descending it, of which the Indians discouraged our expectations. It + was therefore agreed that Captain Clark should set off in the morning with + eleven men, furnished, besides their arms, with tools for making canoes: + that he should take Chaboneau and his wife to the camp of the Shoshonees, + where he was to leave them, in order to hasten the collection of horses; + that he should then lead his men down to the Columbia, and if he found it + navigable, and the timber in sufficient quantity, begin to build canoes. + As soon as he had decided as to the propriety of proceeding down the + Columbia or across the mountains, he was to send back one of the men with + information of it to Captain Lewis, who by that time would have brought up + the whole party, and the rest of the baggage, as far as the Shoshonee + village. Preparations were accordingly made at once to carry out the + arrangement. . . .” + </p> + <p> + “In order to relieve the men of Captain Clark’s party from the heavy + weight of their arms, provisions, and tools, we exposed a few articles to + barter for horses, and soon obtained three very good ones, in exchange for + which we gave a uniform coat, a pair of leggings, a few handkerchiefs, + three knives, and some other small articles, the whole of which did not, + in the United States, cost more than twenty dollars; a fourth was + purchased by the men for an old checkered shirt, a pair of old leggings, + and a knife. The Indians seemed to be quite as well pleased as ourselves + at the bargain they had made. We now found that the two inferior chiefs + were somewhat displeased at not having received a present equal to that + given to the great chief, who appeared in a dress so much finer than their + own. To allay their discontent, we bestowed on them two old coats, and + promised them if they were active in assisting us across the mountains + they should have an additional present. This treatment completely + reconciled them, and the whole Indian party, except two men and two women, + set out in perfect good humor to return to their home with Captain Clark.” + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0014" id="link2HCH0014"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XIV — Across the Great Divide + </h2> + <p> + Captain Clark had now left the water-shed of the Missouri behind him, and + was pressing on, over a broken, hilly country, to the lands from which + issue the tributaries of the Columbia. The Indian village which Captain + Lewis had previously visited had been removed two miles up the stream on + which it was situated, and was reached by Clark on August 20. The party + was very ceremoniously received by Chief Cameahwait, and all hands began + to explain to the white men the difficulties of the situation. How to + transport the canoes and baggage over the mountains to some navigable + stream leading into the Columbia was now the serious problem. The Indian + chief and his old men dwelt on the obstacles in the way and argued that it + was too late in the season to make the attempt. They even urged the white + men to stay with them until another spring, when Indian guides would be + furnished them to proceed on their journey westward. + </p> + <p> + On the twenty-first, Clark passed the junction of two streams, the Salmon + and the Lemhi, which is now the site of Salmon City, Idaho. As Captain + Lewis was the first white man who had seen these waters, Clark gave to the + combined water-course the name of Lewis’ River. The mountains here assumed + a formidable aspect, and the stream was too narrow, rapid, and rock-bound + to admit of navigation. The journal says of Captain Clark:— + </p> + <p> + “He soon began to perceive that the Indian accounts had not been + exaggerated. At the distance of a mile he passed a small creek (on the + right), and the points of four mountains, which were rocky, and so high + that it seemed almost impossible to cross them with horses. The road lay + over the sharp fragments of rocks which had fallen from the mountains, and + were strewed in heaps for miles together; yet the horses, altogether + unshod, travelled across them as fast as the men, without detaining them a + moment. They passed two bold running streams, and reached the entrance of + a small river, where a few Indian families resided, who had not been + previously acquainted with the arrival of the whites; the guide was + behind, and the woods were so thick that we came upon them unobserved, + till at a very short distance. As soon as they saw us the women and + children fled in great consternation; the men offered us everything they + had—the fish on the scaffolds, the dried berries, and the collars of + elks’ tushes worn by the children. We took only a small quantity of the + food, and gave them in return some small articles which conduced very much + to pacify them. The guide now coming up, explained to them who we were and + the object of our visit, which seemed to relieve their fears; still a + number of the women and children did not recover from their fright, but + cried during our stay, which lasted about an hour. The guide, whom we + found a very intelligent, friendly old man, informed us that up this river + there was a road which led over the mountains to the Missouri.” + </p> + <p> + To add to their difficulties, game had almost entirely disappeared, and + the abundant fish in the river could not be caught for lack of proper + fishing-tackle. Timber from which canoes could be made, there was none, + and the rapids in the rivers were sharp and violent. With his Indian guide + and three men, Captain Clark now pressed on his route of survey, leaving + the remainder of his men behind to hunt and fish. He went down the Salmon + River about fifty-two miles, making his way as best he could along its + banks. Finding the way absolutely blocked for their purposes, Captain + Clark returned on the twenty-fifth of August and rejoined the party that + he had left behind. These had not been able to kill anything, and for a + time starvation stared them in the face. Under date of August 27, the + journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “The men, who were engaged last night in mending their moccasins, all + except one, went out hunting, but no game was to be procured. One of the + men, however, killed a small salmon, and the Indians made a present of + another, on which the whole party made a very slight breakfast. These + Indians, to whom this life is familiar, seem contented, although they + depend for subsistence on the scanty productions of the fishery. But our + men, who are used to hardships, but have been accustomed to have the first + wants of nature regularly supplied, feel very sensibly their wretched + situation; their strength is wasting away; they begin to express their + apprehensions of being without food in a country perfectly destitute of + any means of supporting life, except a few fish. In the course of the day + an Indian brought into the camp five salmon, two of which Captain Clark + bought and made a supper for the party.” + </p> + <p> + Two days later, Captain Clark and his men joined the main party, having + met the only repulse that was suffered by the expedition from first to + last. Eluding the vigilance of the Indians, caches, or hiding-places, for + the baggage were constructed, filled, and concealed, the work being done + after dark. The weather was now very cold, although August had not passed. + Ink froze in the pen during the night, and the meadows were white with + frost; but the days were warm, even hot. + </p> + <p> + In the absence of Captain Clark, his colleague and party had been visited + by Cameahwait and about fifty of his band, with their women and children. + Captain Lewis’ journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “After they had camped near us and turned loose their horses, we called a + council of all the chiefs and warriors, and addressed them in a speech. + Additional presents were then distributed, particularly to the two second + chiefs, who had, agreeably to their promises, exerted themselves in our + favor. The council was then adjourned, and all the Indians were treated + with an abundant meal of boiled Indian corn and beans. The poor wretches, + who had no animal food and scarcely anything but a few fish, had been + almost starved, and received this new luxury with great thankfulness. Out + of compliment to the chief, we gave him a few dried squashes, which we had + brought from the Mandans, and he declared it was the best food he had ever + tasted except sugar, a small lump of which he had received from his sister + Sacajawea. He now declared how happy they should all be to live in a + country which produced so many good things; and we told him that it would + not be long before the white men would put it in their power to live below + the mountains, where they might themselves cultivate all these kinds of + food, instead of wandering in the mountains. He appeared to be much + pleased with this information, and the whole party being now in excellent + temper after their repast, we began our purchase of horses. We soon + obtained five very good ones, on very reasonable terms—that is, by + giving for each horse merchandise which cost us originally about $6. We + have again to admire the perfect decency and propriety of the Indians; for + though so numerous, they do not attempt to crowd round our camp or take + anything which they see lying about, and whenever they borrow knives or + kettles or any other article from the men, they return them with great + fidelity.” + </p> + <p> + Captain Lewis anxiously wished to push on to meet Clark, who, as we have + seen, was then far down on the Salmon River. Lewis was still at the forks + of Jefferson River, it should be borne in mind; and their objective point + was the upper Shoshonee village on the Lemhi River, across the divide. + While on the way over the divide, Lewis was greatly troubled by the freaks + of the Indians, who, regardless of their promises, would propose to return + to the buffalo country on the eastern side of the mountains. Learning that + Cameahwait and his chiefs had sent a messenger over to the Lemhi to notify + the village to come and join an expedition of this sort, Captain Lewis was + dismayed. His journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “Alarmed at this new caprice of the Indians, which, if not counteracted, + threatened to leave ourselves and our baggage on the mountains, or even if + we reached the waters of the Columbia, to prevent our obtaining horses to + go on further, Captain Lewis immediately called the three chiefs together. + After smoking a pipe he asked them if they were men of their word, and if + we could rely on their promises. They readily answered in the affirmative. + He then asked if they had not agreed to assist us in carrying our baggage + over the mountains. To this they also answered yes. ‘Why, then,’ said he, + ‘have you requested your people to meet us to-morrow where it will be + impossible for us to trade for horses, as you promised we should? If,’ he + continued, ‘you had not promised to help us in transporting our goods over + the mountains, we should not have attempted it, but have returned down the + river; after which no white men would ever have come into your country. If + you wish the whites to be your friends, to bring you arms, and to protect + you from your enemies, you should never promise what you do not mean to + perform. When I first met you, you doubted what I said, yet you afterward + saw that I told you the truth. How, therefore, can you doubt what I now + tell you? You see that I divide amongst you the meat which my hunters + kill, and I promise to give all who assist us a share of whatever we have + to eat. If, therefore, you intend to keep your promise, send one of the + young men immediately, to order the people to remain at the village till + we arrive.’ The two inferior chiefs then said that they had wished to keep + their word and to assist us; that they had not sent for the people, but on + the contrary had disapproved of that measure, which was done wholly by the + first chief. Cameahwait remained silent for some time; at last he said + that he knew he had done wrong, but that, seeing his people all in want of + provisions, he had wished to hasten their departure for the country where + their wants might be supplied. He, however, now declared that, having + passed his word, he would never violate it, and counter-orders were + immediately sent to the village by a young man, to whom we gave a + handkerchief in order to ensure despatch and fidelity. . . . + </p> + <p> + “This difficulty being now adjusted, our march was resumed with an unusual + degree of alacrity on the part of the Indians. We passed a spot where, six + years ago, the Shoshonees had suffered a very severe defeat from the + Minnetarees; and late in the evening we reached the upper part of the + cove, where the creek enters the mountains. The part of the cove on the + northeast side of the creek has lately been burned, most probably as a + signal on some occasion. Here we were joined by our hunters with a single + deer, which Captain Lewis gave, as a proof of his sincerity, to the women + and children, and remained supperless himself. As we came along we + observed several large hares, some ducks, and many of the cock of the + plains: in the low grounds of the cove were also considerable quantities + of wild onions.” + </p> + <p> + Arriving at the Shoshonee village on the Lemhi, Captain Lewis found a note + from Captain Clark, sent back by a runner, informing him of the difficulty + and impossibility of a water route to the Columbia. Cameahwait, being told + that his white friends would now need twenty more horses, said that he + would do what he could to help them. The journal here adds:— + </p> + <p> + “In order not to lose the present favorable moment, and to keep the + Indians as cheerful as possible, the violins were brought out and our men + danced, to the great diversion of the Indians. This mirth was the more + welcome because our situation was not precisely that which would most + dispose us to gayety; for we have only a little parched corn to eat, and + our means of subsistence or of success depend on the wavering temper of + the natives, who may change their minds to-morrow. . . . + </p> + <p> + “The Shoshonees are a small tribe of the nation called the Snake Indians, + a vague appellation, which embraces at once the inhabitants of the + southern parts of the Rocky Mountains and of the plains on either side. + The Shoshonees with whom we now were amount to about one hundred warriors, + and three times that number of women and children. Within their own + recollection they formerly lived in the plains, but they have been driven + into the mountains by the Pahkees, or the roving Indians of the + Sascatchawan, and are now obliged to visit occasionally, and by stealth, + the country of their ancestors. Their lives, indeed, are migratory. From + the middle of May to the beginning of September they reside on the + headwaters of the Columbia, where they consider themselves perfectly + secure from the Pahkees, who have never yet found their way to that + retreat. During this time they subsist chiefly on salmon, and, as that + fish disappears on the approach of autumn, they are driven to seek + subsistence elsewhere. They then cross the ridge to the waters of the + Missouri, down which they proceed slowly and cautiously, till they are + joined near the Three Forks by other bands, either of their own nation or + of the Flatheads, with whom they associate against the common enemy. Being + now strong in numbers, they venture to hunt the buffalo in the plains + eastward of the mountains, near which they spend the winter, till the + return of the salmon invites them to the Columbia. But such is their + terror of the Pahkees, that, so long as they can obtain the scantiest + subsistence, they do not leave the interior of the mountains; and, as soon + as they have collected a large stock of dried meat, they again retreat, + thus alternately obtaining their food at the hazard of their lives, and + hiding themselves to consume it. + </p> + <p> + “In this loose and wandering life they suffer the extremes of want; for + two thirds of the year they are forced to live in the mountains, passing + whole weeks without meat, and with nothing to eat but a few fish and + roots. Nor can anything be imagined more wretched than their condition at + the present time, when the salmon is fast retiring, when roots are + becoming scarce, and they have not yet acquired strength to hazard an + encounter with their enemies. So insensible are they, however, to these + calamities, that the Shoshonees are not only cheerful, but even gay; and + their character, which is more interesting than that of any Indians we + have seen, has in it much of the dignity of misfortune. In their + intercourse with strangers they are frank and communicative; in their + dealings they are perfectly fair; nor have we, during our stay with them, + had any reason to suspect that the display of all our new and valuable + wealth has tempted them into a single act of dishonesty. While they have + generally shared with us the little they possess, they have always + abstained from begging anything from us. With their liveliness of temper, + they are fond of gaudy dresses and all sorts of amusements, particularly + games of hazard; and, like most Indians, delight in boasting of their + warlike exploits, either real or fictitious. In their conduct towards us + they have been kind and obliging; and though on one occasion they seemed + willing to neglect us, yet we scarcely knew how to blame the treatment by + which we were to suffer, when we recollected how few civilized chiefs + would have hazarded the comforts or the subsistence of their people for + the sake of a few strangers. . . . . . . . . . + </p> + <p> + “As war is the chief occupation, bravery is the first virtue among the + Shoshonees. None can hope to be distinguished without having given proofs + of it, nor can there be any preferment or influence among the nation, + without some warlike achievement. Those important events which give + reputation to a warrior, and entitle him to a new name, are: killing a + white (or grizzly) bear, stealing individually the horses of the enemy, + leading a party who happen to be successful either in plundering horses or + destroying the enemy, and lastly, scalping a warrior. These acts seem of + nearly equal dignity, but the last, that of taking an enemy’s scalp, is an + honor quite independent of the act of vanquishing him. To kill your + adversary is of no importance unless the scalp is brought from the field + of battle; were a warrior to slay any number of his enemies in action, and + others were to obtain the scalps or first touch the dead, they would have + all the honors, since they have borne off the trophy. . . .” + </p> + <p> + “The names of these Indians vary in the course of their life. Originally + given in childhood, from the mere necessity of distinguishing objects, or + from some accidental resemblance to external objects, the young warrior is + impatient to change it by some achievement of his own. Any important event—the + stealing of horses, the scalping of an enemy, or the killing of a brown + bear—entitles him at once to a new name, which he then selects for + himself, and it is confirmed by the nation. Sometimes the two names + subsist together; thus, the chief Cameahwait, which means ‘One Who Never + Walks,’ has the war-name of Tooettecone, or ‘Black Gun,’ which he acquired + when he first signalized himself. As each new action gives a warrior a + right to change his name, many of them have several in the course of their + lives. To give to a friend one’s own name is an act of high courtesy, and + a pledge, like that of pulling off the moccasin, of sincerity and + hospitality. The chief in this way gave his name to Captain Clark when he + first arrived, and he was afterward known among the Shoshonees by the name + of Cameahwait.” + </p> + <p> + On the thirtieth of August, the whole expedition being now reunited, and a + sufficient number of horses having been purchased of the Shoshonees, the + final start across the mountains was begun. The journal says: + </p> + <p> + “The greater part of the band, who had delayed their journey on our + account, were also ready to depart. We took leave of the Shoshonees, who + set out on their visit to the Missouri at the same time that we, + accompanied by the old guide, his four sons, and another Indian, began the + descent of the Lemhi River, along the same road which Captain Clark had + previously pursued. After riding twelve miles we camped on the south bank + of this river, and as the hunters had brought in three deer early in the + morning, we did not feel the want of provisions.” + </p> + <p> + Three days later, all the Indians, except the old guide, left them. They + now passed up Fish Creek, and finding no track leading over the mountains + they cut their way. Their journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “This we effected with much difficulty; the thickets of trees and brush + through which we were obliged to cut our way required great labor; the + road itself was over the steep and rocky sides of the hills, where the + horses could not move without danger of slipping down, while their feet + were bruised by the rocks and stumps of trees. Accustomed as these animals + were to this kind of life, they suffered severely; several of them fell to + some distance down the sides of the hills, some turned over with the + baggage, one was crippled, and two gave out, exhausted with fatigue. After + crossing the creek several times we at last made five miles, with great + fatigue and labor, and camped on the left side of the creek in a small + stony low ground. It was not, however, till after dark that the whole + party was collected; and then, as it rained and we had killed nothing, we + passed an uncomfortable night. The party had been too busily occupied with + the horses to make any hunting excursion; and though, as we came along + Fish Creek, we saw many beaver-dams, we saw none of the animals + themselves.” + </p> + <p> + The Indian guide appears here to have lost his way; but, not dismayed, he + pushed on through a trackless wilderness, sometimes travelling on the snow + that now covered the mountains. On the fourth of September, the party came + upon a large encampment of Indians, who received them with much ceremony. + The journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “September 5, we assembled the chiefs and warriors, and informed them who + we were, and the purpose for which we had visited their country. All this + was, however, conveyed to them through so many different languages, that + it was not comprehended without difficulty. We therefore proceeded to the + more intelligible language of presents, and made four chiefs by giving a + medal and a small quantity of tobacco to each. We received in turn from + the principal chief a present consisting of the skins of a blaireau + (badger), an otter, and two antelopes, and were treated by the women to + some dried roots and berries. We then began to traffic for horses, and + succeeded in exchanging seven and purchasing eleven, for which we gave a + few articles of merchandise. + </p> + <p> + “This encampment consists of thirty-three tents, in which were about four + hundred souls, among whom eighty were men. They are called Ootlashoots, + and represent themselves as one band of a nation called Tushepaws, a + numerous people of four hundred and fifty tents, residing on the + head-waters of the Missouri and Columbia rivers, and some of them lower + down the latter river. In person these Indians are stout, and their + complexion lighter than that common among Indians. The hair of the men is + worn in queues of otter skin, falling in front over the shoulders. A shirt + of dressed skin covers the body to the knee, and over this is worn + occasionally a robe. To these are added leggings and moccasins. The women + suffer their hair to fall in disorder over the face and shoulders, and + their chief article of covering is a long shirt of skin, reaching down to + the ankles, and tied round the waist. In other respects, as also in the + few ornaments which they possess, their appearance is similar to that of + the Shoshonees: there is, however, a difference between the languages of + these two people, which is still farther increased by the very + extraordinary pronunciation of the Ootlashoots. Their words have all a + remarkably guttural sound, and there is nothing which seems to represent + the tone of their speaking more exactly than the clucking of a fowl or the + noise of a parrot. This peculiarity renders their voices scarcely audible, + except at a short distance; and, when many of them are talking, forms a + strange confusion of sounds. The common conversation that we overheard + consisted of low, guttural sounds, occasionally broken by a low word or + two, after which it would relapse, and could scarcely be distinguished. + They seemed kind and friendly, and willingly shared with us berries and + roots, which formed their sole stock of provisions. Their only wealth is + their horses, which are very fine, and so numerous that this party had + with them at least five hundred.” + </p> + <p> + These Indians were on their way to join the other bands who were hunting + buffalo on the Jefferson River, across the Great Divide. They set out the + next morning, and the explorers resumed their toilsome journey, travelling + generally in a northwesterly direction and looking for a pass across the + Bitter Root Mountains. Very soon, all indications of game disappeared, + and, September 14, they were forced to kill a colt, their stock of animal + food being exhausted. They pressed on, however, through a savage + wilderness, having frequent need to recur to horse-flesh. Here is an entry + under date of September 18, in the journal: “We melted some snow, and + supped on a little portable soup, a few canisters of which, with about + twenty pounds’ weight of bear’s oil, are our only remaining means of + subsistence. Our guns are scarcely of any service, for there is no living + creature in these mountains, except a few small pheasants, a small species + of gray squirrel, and a blue bird of the vulture kind, about the size of a + turtle-dove, or jay. Even these are difficult to shoot.” + </p> + <p> + “A bold running creek,” up which Captain Clark passed on September 19, was + appropriately named by him “Hungry Creek,” as at that place they had + nothing to eat. But, at about six miles’ distance from the head of the + stream, “he fortunately found a horse, on which he breakfasted, and hung + the rest on a tree for the party in the rear.” This was one of the wild + horses, strayed from Indian bands, which they found in the wilderness, too + wild to be caught and used, but not too wild to shoot and eat. Later, on + the same day, this entry is made in the journal: + </p> + <p> + “The road along the creek is a narrow rocky path near the borders of very + high precipices, from which a fall seems almost inevitable destruction. + One of our horses slipped and rolled over with his load down the hillside, + which was nearly perpendicular and strewed with large irregular rocks, + nearly one hundred yards, and did not stop till he fell into the creek. We + all expected he was killed, but to our astonishment, on taking off his + load he rose, seemed but little injured, and in twenty minutes proceeded + with his load. Having no other provision, we took some portable soup, our + only refreshment during the day. This abstinence, joined with fatigue, has + a visible effect on our health. The men are growing weak and losing their + flesh very fast; several are afflicted with dysentery, and eruptions of + the skin are very common.” + </p> + <p> + Next day, the party descended the last of the Bitter Root range and + reached level country. They were at last over the Great Divide. Three + Indian boys were discovered hiding in the grass, in great alarm. Captain + Clark at once dismounted from his horse, and, making signs of amity, went + after the boys. He calmed their terrors, and, giving them some bits of + ribbon, sent them home. + </p> + <p> + “Soon after the boys reached home, a man came out to meet the party, with + great caution; but he conducted them to a large tent in the village, and + all the inhabitants gathered round to view with a mixture of fear and + pleasure these wonderful strangers. The conductor now informed Captain + Clark, by signs, that the spacious tent was the residence of the great + chief, who had set out three days ago with all the warriors to attack some + of their enemies toward the southwest; that he would not return before + fifteen or eighteen days, and that in the mean time there were only a few + men left to guard the women and children. They now set before them a small + piece of buffalo-meat, some dried salmon, berries, and several kinds of + roots. Among these last is one which is round, much like an onion in + appearance, and sweet to the taste. It is called quamash, and is eaten + either in its natural state, or boiled into a kind of soup, or made into a + cake, which is then called pasheco. After the long abstinence this was a + sumptuous treat. They returned the kindness of the people by a few small + presents, and then went on in company with one of the chiefs to a second + village in the same plain, at the distance of two miles. Here the party + were treated with great kindness, and passed the night. The hunters were + sent out, but, though they saw some tracks of deer, were not able to + procure anything.” + </p> + <p> + The root which the Indians used in so many ways is now known as camas; it + is still much sought for by the Nez Perces and other wandering tribes in + the Northwest, and Camas Prairie, in that region, derives its name from + the much-sought-for vegetable. + </p> + <p> + Captain Clark and his men stayed with these hospitable Indians several + days. The free use of wholesome food, to which he had not lately been + accustomed, made Clark very ill, and he contented himself with staying in + the Indian villages, of which there were two. These Indians called + themselves Chopunnish, or Pierced Noses; this latter name is now more + commonly rendered <i>Nez Perces</i>, the French voyageurs having given it + that translation into their own tongue. But these people, so far as known, + did not pierce their noses. After sending a man back on the trail to + notify Captain Lewis of his progress, Captain Clark went on to the village + of Chief Twisted-hair. Most of the women and children, though notified of + the coming of the white man, were so scared by the appearance of the + strangers that they fled to the woods. The men, however, received them + without fear and gave them a plentiful supply of food. They were now on + one of the upper branches of the Kooskooskee River, near what is the site + of Pierce City, county seat of Shoshonee County, Idaho. The Indians + endeavored, by means of signs, to explain to their visitors the geography + of the country beyond. + </p> + <p> + “Among others, Twisted-hair drew a chart of the river on a white elk-skin. + According to this, the Kooskooskee forks (confluence of its North fork) a + few miles from this place; two days toward the south is another and larger + fork (confluence of Snake River), on which the Shoshonee or Snake Indians + fish; five days’ journey further is a large river from the northwest (that + is, the Columbia itself) into which Clark’s River empties; from the mouth + of that river (that is, confluence of the Snake with the Columbia) to the + falls is five days’ journey further; on all the forks as well as on the + main river great numbers of Indians reside.” + </p> + <p> + On the twenty-third of September, Captain Lewis and his party having come + up, the white men assembled the Indians and explained to them where they + came from and what was their errand across the continent. The Indians + appeared to be entirely satisfied, and they sold their visitors as much + provisions as their half-famished horses could carry. The journal here + says:— + </p> + <p> + “All around the village the women are busily employed in gathering and + dressing the pasheco-root, of which large quantities are heaped in piles + over the plain. We now felt severely the consequence of eating heartily + after our late privations. Captain Lewis and two of the men were taken + very ill last evening; to-day he could hardly sit on his horse, while + others were obliged to be put on horseback, and some, from extreme + weakness and pain, were forced to lie down alongside of the road for some + time. At sunset we reached the island where the hunters had been left on + the 22d. They had been unsuccessful, having killed only two deer since + that time, and two of them were very sick. A little below this island is a + larger one on which we camped, and administered Rush’s pills to the sick.” + </p> + <p> + The illness of the party continued for several days, and not much progress + was made down-stream. Having camped, on the twenty-seventh of September, + in the Kooskooskee River, at a place where plenty of good timber was + found, preparations for building five canoes were begun. From this time to + the fifth of October, all the men capable of labor were employed in + preparing the canoes. The health of the party gradually recruited, though + they still suffered severely from want of food; and, as the hunters had + but little success in procuring game, they were obliged on the second to + kill one of their horses. Indians from different quarters frequently + visited them, but all that could be obtained from them was a little fish + and some dried roots. This diet was not only unnutritious, but in many + cases it caused dysentery and nausea. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0015" id="link2HCH0015"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XV — Down the Pacific Slope + </h2> + <p> + The early days of October were spent in making preparations for the + descent of the river,—the Kooskooskee. Here they made their canoes, + and they called their stopping-place Canoe Camp. This was at the junction + of the north fork of the river with the main stream; and all below that + point is called the Lower Kooskooskee, while that above is known as the + upper river. The latitude of the camp, according to the journal of the + explorers, was 46'0 34’ 56” north. Here they buried in a cache their + saddles, horse-gear, and a small supply of powder and musket balls for + possible emergencies. The Kooskooskee, it should be borne in mind, is now + better known as the Clearwater; it empties into the Snake River, and that + into the Columbia. As far as the explorers knew the water-course down + which they were to navigate, they called it Clark’s River, in honor of + Captain Clark. But modern geographers have displaced the name of that + eminent explorer and map-maker and have divided the stream, or streams, + with other nomenclature. + </p> + <p> + On the eighth of October the party set out on their long water journey in + five canoes, one of which was a small craft intended to go on ahead and + pilot the way (which, of course, was unknown) for the four larger ones, in + which travelled the main party with their luggage. They met with disaster + very soon after their start, one of the canoes having struck a rock, which + made a hole in its side and caused the sinking of the craft. Fortunately, + no lives were lost, but the voyage was interrupted. The party went ashore + and did not resume their journey until their luggage was dried and the + canoe repaired. On the ninth, says the journal:— + </p> + <p> + “The morning was as usual cool; but as the weather both yesterday and + to-day was cloudy, our merchandise dried but slowly. The boat, though much + injured, was repaired by ten o’clock so as to be perfectly fit for + service; but we were obliged to remain during the day till the articles + were sufficiently dry to be reloaded. The interval we employed in + purchasing fish for the voyage, and conversing with the Indians. In the + afternoon we were surprised at hearing that our old Shoshonee guide and + his son had left us and had been seen running up the river several miles + above. As he had never given any notice of his intention, nor had even + received his pay for guiding us, we could not imagine the cause of his + desertion; nor did he ever return to explain his conduct. We requested the + chief to send a horseman after him to request that he would return and + receive what we owed him. From this, however, he dissuaded us, and said + very frankly that his nation, the Chopunnish, would take from the old man + any presents that he might have on passing their camp. The Indians came + about our camp at night, and were very gay and good-humored with the men. + Among other exhibitions was that of a squaw who appeared to be crazy. She + sang in a wild, incoherent manner, and offered to the spectators all the + little articles she possessed, scarifying herself in a horrid manner if + anyone refused her present. She seemed to be an object of pity among the + Indians, who suffered her to do as she pleased without interruption.” + </p> + <p> + The river was full of rapids and very dangerous rocks and reefs, and the + voyagers were able to make only twenty miles a day for some distance along + the stream. At the confluence of the Kooskooskee and the Snake River they + camped for the night, near the present site of Lewiston, Idaho. This city, + first settled in May, 1861, and incorporated in 1863, was named for + Captain Lewis of our expedition. From this point the party crossed over + into the present State of Washington. Of their experience at their camp + here the journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “Our arrival soon attracted the attention of the Indians, who flocked in + all directions to see us. In the evening the Indian from the falls, whom + we had seen at Rugged rapid, joined us with his son in a small canoe, and + insisted on accompanying us to the falls. Being again reduced to fish and + roots, we made an experiment to vary our food by purchasing a few dogs, + and after having been accustomed to horse-flesh, felt no disrelish for + this new dish. The Chopunnish have great numbers of dogs, which they + employ for domestic purposes, but never eat; and our using the flesh of + that animal soon brought us into ridicule as dog-eaters.” + </p> + <p> + When Fremont and his men crossed the continent to California, in 1842, + they ate the flesh of that species of marmot which we know as the + prairie-dog. Long afterwards, when Fremont was a candidate for the office + of President of the United States, this fact was recalled to the minds of + men, and the famous explorer was denounced as “a dog-eater.” + </p> + <p> + The journal of the explorers gives this interesting account of the Indians + among whom they now found themselves:— + </p> + <p> + “The Chopunnish or Pierced-nose nation, who reside on the Kooskooskee and + Lewis’ (Snake) rivers, are in person stout, portly, well-looking men; the + women are small, with good features and generally handsome, though the + complexion of both sexes is darker than that of the Tushepaws. In dress + they resemble that nation, being fond of displaying their ornaments. The + buffalo or elk-skin robe decorated with beads; sea-shells, chiefly + mother-of-pearl, attached to an otter-skin collar and hung in the hair, + which falls in front in two cues; feathers, paints of different kinds, + principally white, green, and light blue, all of which they find in their + own country; these are the chief ornaments they use. In the winter they + wear a short skirt of dressed skins, long painted leggings and moccasins, + and a plait of twisted grass round the neck. The dress of the women is + more simple, consisting of a long shirt of argalia (argali) or ibex + (bighorn) skin, reaching down to the ankles, without a girdle; to this are + tied little pieces of brass, shells, and other small articles; but the + head is not at all ornamented. + </p> + <p> + “The Chopunnish have very few amusements, for their life is painful and + laborious; all their exertions are necessary to earn even their precarious + subsistence. During the summer and autumn they are busily occupied in + fishing for salmon and collecting their winter store of roots. In winter + they hunt the deer on snow-shoes over the plains, and toward spring cross + the mountains to the Missouri for the purpose of rafficking for + buffalo-robe. The inconveniences of their comfortless life are increased + by frequent encounters with their enemies from the west, who drive them + over the mountains with the loss of their horses, and sometimes the lives + of many of the nation.” + </p> + <p> + After making a short stage on their journey, October 11, the party stopped + to trade with the Indians, their stock of provisions being low. They were + able to purchase a quantity of salmon and seven dogs. They saw here a + novel kind of vapor bath which is thus described in the journal:— + </p> + <p> + “While this traffic was going on we observed a vapor bath or + sweating-house, in a different form from that used on the frontier of the + United States or in the Rocky Mountains. It was a hollow square six or + eight feet deep, formed in the river bank by damming up with mud the other + three sides and covering the whole completely, except an aperture about + two feet wide at the top. The bathers descend by this hole, taking with + them a number of heated stones and jugs of water; after being seated round + the room they throw the water on the stones till the steam becomes of a + temperature sufficiently high for their purposes. The baths of the Indians + in the Rocky Mountains are of different sizes, the most common being made + of mud and sticks like an oven, but the mode of raising the steam is + exactly the same. Among both these nations it is very uncommon for a man + to bathe alone; he is generally accompanied by one or sometimes several of + his acquaintances; indeed, it is so essentially a social amusement, that + to decline going in to bathe when invited by a friend is one of the + highest indignities which can be offered to him. The Indians on the + frontier generally use a bath which will accommodate only one person, + formed of a wicker-work of willows about four feet high, arched at the + top, and covered with skins. In this the patient sits, till by means of + the heated stones and water he has perspired sufficiently. Almost + universally these baths are in the neighborhood of running water, into + which the Indians plunge immediately on coming out of the vapor bath, and + sometimes return again and subject themselves to a second perspiration. + This practice is, however, less frequent among our neighboring nations + than those to the westward. This bath is employed either for pleasure or + for health, and is used indiscriminately for all kinds of diseases.” + </p> + <p> + The expedition was now on the Snake River, making all possible speed + toward the Columbia, commonly known to the Indians as “The Great River.” + The stream was crowded with dangerous rapids, and sundry disasters were + met with by the way; thus, on the fourteenth of October, a high wind + blowing, one of the canoes was driven upon a rock sidewise and filled with + water. The men on board got out and dragged the canoe upon the rock, where + they held her above water. Another canoe, having been unloaded, was sent + to the relief of the shipwrecked men, who, after being left on the rock + for some time, were taken off without any other loss than the bedding of + two of them. But accidents like this delayed the party, as they were + forced to land and remain long enough to dry the goods that had been + exposed to the water. Several such incidents are told in the journal of + the explorers. Few Indians were to be seen along the banks of the river, + but occasionally the party came to a pile of planks and timbers which were + the materials from which were built the houses of such Indians as came + here in the fishing season to catch a supply for the winter and for + trading purposes. Occasionally, the complete scarcity of fuel compelled + the explorers to depart from their general rule to avoid taking any Indian + property without leave; and they used some of these house materials for + firewood, with the intent to pay the rightful owners, if they should ever + be found. On the sixteenth of October, they met with a party of Indians, + of whom the journal gives this account:— + </p> + <p> + “After crossing by land we halted for dinner, and whilst we were eating + were visited by five Indians, who came up the river on foot in great + haste. We received them kindly, smoked with them, and gave them a piece of + tobacco to smoke with their tribe. On receiving the present they set out + to return, and continued running as fast as they could while they remained + in sight. Their curiosity had been excited by the accounts of our two + chiefs, who had gone on in order to apprise the tribes of our approach and + of our friendly disposition toward them. After dinner we reloaded the + canoes and proceeded. We soon passed a rapid opposite the upper point of a + sandy island on the left, which has a smaller island near it. At three + miles is a gravelly bar in the river; four miles beyond this the Kimooenim + (Snake) empties into the Columbia, and at its mouth has an island just + below a small rapid. + </p> + <p> + “We halted above the point of junction, on the Kimooenim, to confer with + the Indians, who had collected in great numbers to receive us. On landing + we were met by our two chiefs, to whose good offices we were indebted for + this reception, and also the two Indians who had passed us a few days + since on horseback; one of whom appeared to be a man of influence, and + harangued the Indians on our arrival. After smoking with the Indians, we + formed a camp at the point where the two rivers unite, near to which we + found some driftwood, and were supplied by our two old chiefs with the + stalks of willows and some small bushes for fuel. + </p> + <p> + “We had scarcely fixed the camp and got the fires prepared, when a chief + came from the Indian camp about a quarter of a mile up the Columbia, at + the head of nearly two hundred men. They formed a regular procession, + keeping time to the music, or, rather, noise of their drums, which they + accompanied with their voices; and as they advanced, they ranged + themselves in a semicircle around us, and continued singing for some time. + We then smoked with them all, and communicated, as well as we could by + signs, our friendly intentions towards every nation, and our joy at + finding ourselves surrounded by our children. After this we proceeded to + distribute presents among them, giving the principal chief a large medal, + a shirt, and a handkerchief; to the second chief, a medal of a smaller + size; and to a third, who had come down from some of the upper villages, a + small medal and a handkerchief. This ceremony being concluded, they left + us; but in the course of the afternoon several of them returned, and + remained with us till a late hour. After they had dispersed, we proceeded + to purchase provisions, and were enabled to collect seven dogs, to which + some of the Indians added small presents of fish, and one of them gave us + twenty pounds of fat dried horse-flesh.” + </p> + <p> + The explorers were still in the country which is now the State of + Washington, at a point where the counties of Franklin, Yakima, and Walla + Walla come together, at the junction of the Snake and the Columbia. We + quote now from the journal:— + </p> + <p> + “From the point of junction the country is a continued plain, low near the + water, from which it rises gradually, and the only elevation to be seen is + a range of high country running from northeast to southwest, where it + joins a range of mountains from the southwest, and is on the opposite side + about two miles from the Columbia. There is on this plain no tree, and + scarcely any shrubs, except a few willow-bushes; even of smaller plants + there is not much more than the prickly-pear, which is in great abundance, + and is even more thorny and troublesome than any we have yet seen. During + this time the principal chief came down with several of his warriors, and + smoked with us. We were also visited by several men and women, who offered + dogs and fish for sale; but as the fish was out of season, and at present + abundant in the river, we contented ourselves with purchasing all the dogs + we could obtain. + </p> + <p> + “The nation among which we now are call themselves Sokulks; with them are + united a few of another nation, who reside on a western branch which + empties into the Columbia a few miles above the mouth of the latter river, + and whose name is Chimnapum. The languages of these two nations, of each + of which we obtained a vocabulary, differ but little from each other, or + from that of the Chopunnish who inhabit the Kooskooskee and Lewis’ rivers. + In their dress and general appearance they also much resemble those + nations; the men wearing a robe of deer- antelope-skin, under which a few + of them have a short leathern shirt. The most striking difference is among + the females, the Sokulk women being more inclined to corpulency than any + we have yet seen. Their stature is low, their faces are broad, and their + heads flattened in such a manner that the forehead is in a straight line + from the nose to the crown of the head. Their eyes are of a dirty sable, + their hair is coarse and black, and braided without ornament of any kind. + Instead of wearing, as do the Chopunnish, long leathern shirts highly + decorated with beads and shells, the Sokulk women have no other covering + but a truss or piece of leather tied round the hips, and drawn tight + between the legs. The ornaments usually worn by both sexes are large blue + or white beads, either pendant from their ears, or round the neck, wrists, + and arms; they have likewise bracelets of brass, copper, and horn, and + some trinkets of shells, fishbones, and curious feathers. + </p> + <p> + “The houses of the Sokulks are made of large mats of rushes, and are + generally of a square or oblong form, varying in length from fifteen to + sixty feet, and supported in the inside by poles or forks about six feet + high. The top is covered with mats, leaving a space of twelve or fifteen + inches the whole length of the house, for the purpose of admitting the + light and suffering the smoke to escape. The roof is nearly flat, which + seems to indicate that rains are not common in this open country; and the + house is not divided into apartments, the fire being in the middle of the + enclosure, and immediately under the bole in the roof. The interior is + ornamented with their nets, gigs, and other fishing-tackle, as well as the + bow of each inmate, and a large quiver of arrows, which are headed with + flint. + </p> + <p> + “The Sokulks seem to be of a mild and peaceable disposition, and live in a + state of comparative happiness. The men, like those on the Kimooenim, are + said to content themselves with a single wife, with whom the husband, we + observe, shares the labors of procuring subsistence much more than is + common among savages. What may be considered an unequivocal proof of their + good disposition, is the great respect which is shown to old age. Among + other marks of it, we noticed in one of the houses an old woman perfectly + blind, and who, we were told, had lived more than a hundred winters. In + this state of decrepitude, she occupied the best position in the house, + seemed to be treated with great kindness, and whatever she said was + listened to with much attention. They are by no means obtrusive; and as + their fisheries supply them with a competent, if not an abundant + subsistence, although they receive thankfully whatever we choose to give, + they do not importune us by begging. Fish is, indeed, their chief food, + except roots and casual supplies of antelope, which latter, to those who + have only bows and arrows, must be very scanty. This diet may be the + direct or the remote cause of the chief disorder which prevails among + them, as well as among the Flatheads on the Kooskooskee and Lewis’ rivers. + With all these Indians a bad soreness of the eyes is a very common + disorder, which is suffered to ripen by neglect, till many are deprived of + one of their eyes, and some have totally lost the use of both. This + dreadful calamity may reasonably, we think, be imputed to the constant + reflection of the sun on the waters, where they are constantly fishing in + the spring, summer, and fall, and during the rest of the year on the snows + of a country which affords no object to relieve the sight. + </p> + <p> + “Among the Sokulks, indeed among all the tribes whose chief subsistence is + fish, we have observed that bad teeth are very general; some have the + teeth, particularly those of the upper jaw, worn down to the gums, and + many of both sexes, even of middle age, have lost them almost entirely. + This decay of the teeth is a circumstance very unusual among Indians, + either of the mountains or the plains, and seems peculiar to the + inhabitants of the Columbia. We cannot avoid regarding as one principal + cause of it the manner in which they eat their food. The roots are + swallowed as they are dug from the ground, frequently covered with a + gritty sand; so little idea have they that this is offensive that all the + roots they offer us for sale are in the same condition.” + </p> + <p> + The explorers were now at the entrance of the mighty Columbia,—“The + Great River” of which they had heard so much from the Indians. We might + suppose that when they actually embarked upon the waters of the famous + stream, variously known as “The River of the North” and “The Oregon,” the + explorers would be touched with a little of the enthusiasm with which they + straddled the headwaters of the Missouri and gazed upon the snow-covered + peaks of the Rocky Mountains. But no such kindling of the imagination + seems to have been noted in their journal. In this commonplace way, + according to their own account, Captain Clark entered upon the mighty + Columbia:— + </p> + <p> + “In the course of the day (October 17, 1805), Captain Clark, in a small + canoe with two men, ascended the Columbia. At the distance of five miles + he passed an island in the middle of the river, at the head of which was a + small but not dangerous rapid. On the left bank, opposite to this island, + was a fishing-place consisting of three mat houses. Here were great + quantities of salmon drying on scaffolds; and, indeed, from the mouth of + the river upward, he saw immense numbers of dead salmon strewed along the + shore, or floating on the surface of the water, which is so clear that the + fish may be seen swimming at the depth of fifteen or twenty feet. The + Indians, who had collected on the banks to observe him, now joined him in + eighteen canoes, and accompanied him up the river. A mile above the rapids + he came to the lower point of an island, where the course of the stream, + which had been from its mouth north eighty-three degrees west, now became + due west. He proceeded in that direction, until, observing three house’s + of mats at a short distance, he landed to visit them. On entering one of + these houses, he found it crowded with men, women, and children, who + immediately provided a mat for him to sit on, and one of the party + undertook to prepare something to eat. He began by bringing in a piece of + pine wood that had drifted down the river, which he split into small + pieces with a wedge made of elkhorn, by means of a mallet of stone + curiously carved. The pieces of wood were then laid on the fire, and + several round stones placed upon them. One of the squaws now brought a + bucket of water, in which was a large salmon about half dried, and, as the + stones became heated, they were put into the bucket till the salmon was + sufficiently boiled for use. It was then taken out, put on a platter of + rushes neatly made, and laid before Captain Clark, while another was + boiled for each of his men. During these preparations he smoked with such + about him as would accept of tobacco, but very few were desirous of + smoking, a custom which is not general among them, and chiefly used as a + matter of form in great ceremonies. + </p> + <p> + “After eating the fish, which was of an excellent flavor, Captain Clark + set out and, at the distance of four miles from the last island, came to + the lower point of another near the left shore, where he halted at two + large mat-houses. Here, as at the three houses below, the inhabitants were + occupied in splitting and drying salmon. The multitudes of this fish are + almost inconceivable. The water is so clear that they can readily be seen + at the depth of fifteen or twenty feet; but at this season they float in + such quantities down the stream, and are drifted ashore, that the Indians + have only to collect, split, and dry them on the scaffolds. Where they + procure the timber of which these scaffolds are composed he could not + learn; but as there is nothing but willow-bushes to be seen for a great + distance from this place, it rendered very probable what the Indians + assured him by signs, that they often used dried fish as fuel for the + common occasions of cooking. From this island they showed him the entrance + of the western branch of the Columbia, called the Tapteal, which, as far + as could be seen, bears nearly west and empties about eight miles above + into the Columbia, the general course of which is northwest.” + </p> + <p> + The Tapteal, as the journal calls it, is now known as the Yakima, a stream + which has its source in the Cascade range of mountains, Washington. The + party tarried here long enough to secure from the Indians a tolerably + correct description of the river upon which they were about to embark. One + of the chiefs drew upon the skin-side of a buffalo robe a sketch of the + Columbia. And this was transferred to paper and put into the journal. That + volume adds here:— + </p> + <p> + “Having completed the purposes of our stay, we now began to lay in our + stores. Fish being out of season, we purchased forty dogs, for which we + gave small articles, such as bells, thimbles, knitting-needles, brass + wire, and a few beads, an exchange with which they all seemed perfectly + satisfied. These dogs, with six prairie-cocks killed this morning, formed + a plentiful supply for the present. We here left our guide and the two + young men who had accompanied him, two of the three being unwilling to go + any further, and the third being of no use, as he was not acquainted with + the river below. We therefore took no Indians but our two chiefs, and + resumed our journey in the presence of many of the Sokulks, who came to + witness our departure. The morning was cool and fair, and the wind from + the southeast.” + </p> + <p> + They now began again to meet Indians who had never before seen white men. + On the nineteenth, says the journal:— + </p> + <p> + “The great chief, with two of his inferior chiefs and a third belonging to + a band on the river below, made us a visit at a very early hour. The first + of these was called Yelleppit,—a handsome, well-proportioned man, + about five feet eight inches high, and thirty-five years of age, with a + bold and dignified countenance; the rest were not distinguished in their + appearance. We smoked with them, and after making a speech, gave a medal, + a handkerchief, and a string of wampum to Yelleppit, but a string of + wampum only to the inferior chiefs. He requested us to remain till the + middle of the day, in order that all his nation might come and see us; but + we excused ourselves by telling him that on our return we would spend two + or three days with him. This conference detained us till nine o’clock, by + which time great numbers of the Indians had come down to visit us. On + leaving them we went on for eight miles, when we came to an island near + the left shore, which continued six miles in length. At its lower + extremity is a small island on which are five houses, at present vacant, + though the scaffolds of fish are as usual abundant. A short distance below + are two more islands, one of them near the middle of the river. On this + there were seven houses, but as soon as the Indians, who were drying fish, + saw us, they fled to their houses, and not one of them appeared till we + had passed; when they came out in greater numbers than is usual for houses + of that size, which induced us to think that the inhabitants of the five + lodges had been alarmed at our approach and taken refuge with them. We + were very desirous of landing in order to relieve their apprehensions, but + as there was a bad rapid along the island all our care was necessary to + prevent injury to the canoes. At the foot of this rapid is a rock on the + left shore, which is fourteen miles from our camp of last night and + resembles a hat in shape.” + </p> + <p> + Later in the day, Captain Clark ascended a bluff on the river bank, where + he saw “a very high mountain covered with snow.” This was Mount St. + Helen’s, in Cowlitz County, Washington. The altitude of the peak is nine + thousand seven hundred and fifty feet. “Having arrived at the lower ends + of the rapids below the bluff before any of the rest of the party, he sat + down on a rock to wait for them, and, seeing a crane fly across the river, + shot it, and it fell near him. Several Indians had been before this + passing on the opposite side towards the rapids, and some who were then + nearly in front of him, being either alarmed at his appearance or the + report of the gun, fled to their houses. Captain Clark was afraid that + these people had not yet heard that the white men were coming, and + therefore, in order to allay their uneasiness before the rest of the party + should arrive, he got into the small canoe with three men, rowed over + towards the houses, and, while crossing, shot a duck, which fell into the + water. As he approached no person was to be seen except three men in the + plains, and they, too, fled as he came near the shore. He landed in front + of five houses close to each other, but no one appeared, and the doors, + which were of mat, were closed. He went towards one of them with a pipe in + his hand, and, pushing aside the mat, entered the lodge, where he found + thirty-two persons, chiefly men and women, with a few children, all in the + greatest consternation; some hanging down their heads, others crying and + wringing their hands. He went up to them, and shook hands with each one in + the most friendly manner; but their apprehensions, which had for a moment + subsided, revived on his taking out a burning-glass, as there was no roof + to the house, and lighting his pipe: he then offered it to several of the + men, and distributed among the women and children some small trinkets + which he had with him, and gradually restored a degree of tranquillity + among them. + </p> + <p> + “Leaving this house, and directing each of his men to visit a house, he + entered a second. Here he found the inmates more terrified than those in + the first; but he succeeded in pacifying them, and afterward went into the + other houses, where the men had been equally successful. Retiring from the + houses, he seated himself on a rock, and beckoned to some of the men to + come and smoke with him; but none of them ventured to join him till the + canoes arrived with the two chiefs, who immediately explained our pacific + intention towards them. Soon after the interpreter’s wife (Sacajawea) + landed, and her presence dissipated all doubts of our being well-disposed, + since in this country no woman ever accompanies a war party: they + therefore all came out, and seemed perfectly reconciled; nor could we, + indeed, blame them for their terrors, which were perfectly natural. They + told the two chiefs that they knew we were not men, for they had seen us + fall from the clouds. In fact, unperceived by them, Captain Clark had shot + the white crane, which they had seen fall just before he appeared to their + eyes: the duck which he had killed also fell close by him; and as there + were some clouds flying over at the moment, they connected the fall of the + birds with his sudden appearance, and believed that he had himself + actually dropped from the clouds; considering the noise of the rifle, + which they had never heard before, the sound announcing so extraordinary + an event. This belief was strengthened, when, on entering the room, he + brought down fire from the heavens by means of his burning-glass. We soon + convinced them, however, that we were merely mortals; and after one of our + chiefs had explained our history and objects, we all smoked together in + great harmony.” + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0016" id="link2HCH0016"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XVI — Down the Columbia to Tidewater + </h2> + <p> + The voyagers were now drifting down the Columbia River, and they found the + way impeded by many rapids, some of them very dangerous. But their skill + in the handling of their canoes seems to have been equal to the occasion, + although they were sometimes compelled to go around the more difficult + rapids, making a short land portage. When they had travelled about forty + miles down the river, they landed opposite an island on which were + twenty-four houses of Indians; the people, known as the Pishquitpahs, were + engaged in drying fish. No sooner had the white men landed than the + Indians, to the number of one hundred, came across the stream bringing + with them some firewood, a most welcome present in that treeless country. + The visitors were entertained with presents and a long smoke at the pipe + of peace. So pleased were they with the music of two violins played by + Cruzatte and Gibson, of the exploring party, that they remained by the + fire of the white men all night. The news of the arrival of the white + strangers soon spread, and next morning about two hundred more of the + Indians assembled to gaze on them. Later in the day, having gotten away + from their numerous inquisitive visitors, the explorers passed down-stream + and landed on a small island to examine a curious vault, in which were + placed the remains of the dead of the tribe. The journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “This place, in which the dead are deposited, is a building about sixty + feet long and twelve feet wide, formed by placing in the ground poles or + forks six feet high, across which a long pole is extended the whole length + of the structure; against this ridge-pole are placed broad boards and + pieces of canoes, in a slanting direction, so as to form a shed. It stands + cast and west, and neither of the extremities is closed. On entering the + western end we observed a number of bodies wrapped carefully in leather + robes, and arranged in rows on boards, which were then covered with a mat. + This was the part destined for those who had recently died; a little + further on, bones half decayed were scattered about, and in the centre of + the building was a large pile of them heaped promiscuously on each other. + At the eastern extremity was a mat, on which twenty-one skulls were placed + in a circular form; the mode of interment being first to wrap the body in + robes, then as it decays to throw the bones into the heap, and place the + skulls together. From the different boards and pieces of canoes which form + the vault were suspended, on the inside, fishing-nets, baskets, wooden + bowls, robes, skins, trenchers, and trinkets of various kinds, obviously + intended as offerings of affection to deceased relatives. On the outside + of the vault were the skeletons of several horses, and great quantities of + their bones were in the neighborhood, which induced us to believe that + these animals were most probably sacrificed at the funeral rites of their + masters.” + </p> + <p> + Just below this stand the party met Indians who traded with tribes living + near the great falls of the Columbia. That place they designated as + “Tum-tum,” a word that signifies the throbbing of the heart. One of these + Indians had a sailor’s jacket, and others had a blue blanket and a scarlet + blanket. These articles had found their way up the river from white + traders on the seashore. + </p> + <p> + On the twenty-first of October the explorers discovered a considerable + stream which appeared to rise in the southeast and empty into the Columbia + on the left. To this stream they gave the name of Lepage for Bastien + Lepage, one of the voyageurs accompanying the party. The watercourse, + however, is now known as John Day’s River. John Day was a mighty hunter + and backwoodsman from Kentucky who went across the continent, six years + later, with a party bound for Astoria, on the Columbia. From the rapids + below the John Day River the Lewis and Clark party caught their first + sight of Mount Hood, a famous peak of the Cascade range of mountains, + looming up in the southwest, eleven thousand two hundred and twenty-five + feet high. Next day they passed the mouth of another river entering the + Columbia from the south and called by the Indians the Towahnahiooks, but + known to modern geography as the Des Chutes, one of the largest southern + tributaries of the Columbia. Five miles below the mouth of this stream the + party camped. Near them was a party of Indians engaged in drying and + packing salmon. Their method of doing this is thus described:— + </p> + <p> + “The manner of doing this is by first opening the fish and exposing it to + the sun on scaffolds. When it is sufficiently dried it is pounded between + two stones till it is pulverized, and is then placed in a basket about two + feet long and one in diameter, neatly made of grass and rushes, and lined + with the skin of a salmon stretched and dried for the purpose. Here the + fish are pressed down as hard as possible, and the top is covered with + fish-skins, which are secured by cords through the holes of the basket. + These baskets are then placed in some dry situation, the corded part + upward, seven being usually placed as close as they can be put together, + and five on the top of these. The whole is then wrapped up in mats, and + made fast by cords, over which mats are again thrown. Twelve of these + baskets, each of which contains from ninety to one hundred pounds, form a + stack, which is left exposed till it is sent to market. The fish thus + preserved keep sound and sweet for several years, and great quantities, + they inform us, are sent to the Indians who live below the falls, whence + it finds its way to the whites who visit the mouth of the Columbia. We + observe, both near the lodges and on the rocks in the river, great numbers + of stacks of these pounded fish. Besides fish, these people supplied us + with filberts and berries, and we purchased a dog for supper; but it was + with much difficulty that we were able to buy wood enough to cook it.” + </p> + <p> + On the twenty-third the voyagers made the descent of the great falls which + had so long been an object of dread to them. The whole height of the falls + is thirty-seven feet, eight inches, in a distance of twelve hundred yards. + A portage of four hundred and fifty yards was made around the first fall, + which is twenty feet high, and perpendicular. By means of lines the canoes + were let down the rapids below. At the season of high water the falls + become mere rapids up which the salmon can pass. On this point the journal + says:— + </p> + <p> + “From the marks everywhere perceivable at the falls, it is obvious that in + high floods, which must be in the spring, the water below the falls rises + nearly to a level with that above them. Of this rise, which is occasioned + by some obstructions which we do not as yet know, the salmon must avail + themselves to pass up the river in such multitudes that this fish is + almost the only one caught in great abundance above the falls; but below + that place we observe the salmon-trout, and the heads of a species of + trout smaller than the salmon-trout, which is in great quantities, and + which they are now burying, to be used as their winter food. A hole of any + size being dug, the sides and bottom are lined with straw, over which + skins are laid; on these the fish, after being well dried, are laid, + covered with other skins, and the hole is closed with a layer of earth + twelve or fifteen inches deep. . . . + </p> + <p> + “We saw no game except a sea-otter, which was shot in the narrow channel + as we were coming down, but we could not get it. Having, therefore, + scarcely any provisions, we purchased eight small fat dogs: a food to + which we were compelled to have recourse, as the Indians were very + unwilling to sell us any of their good fish, which they reserved for the + market below. Fortunately, however, habit had completely overcome the + repugnance which we felt at first at eating this animal, and the dog, if + not a favorite dish, was always an acceptable one. The meridian altitude + of to-day gave 45'0 42’ 57.3” north as the latitude of our camp. + </p> + <p> + “On the beach, near the Indian huts, we observed two canoes of a different + shape and size from any which we had hitherto seen. One of these we got by + giving our smallest canoe a hatchet, and a few trinkets to the owner, who + said he had obtained it from a white man below the falls in exchange for a + horse. These canoes were very beautifully made: wide in the middle, and + tapering towards each end, with curious figures carved on the bow. They + were thin, but, being strengthened by crossbars about an inch in diameter, + tied with strong pieces of bark through holes in the sides, were able to + bear very heavy burdens, and seemed calculated to live in the roughest + water.” + </p> + <p> + At this point the officers of the expedition observed signs of uneasiness + in the two friendly Indian chiefs who had thus far accompanied them. They + also heard rumors that the warlike Indians below them were meditating an + attack as the party went down. The journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “Being at all times ready for any attempt of that sort, we were not under + greater apprehensions than usual at this intelligence. We therefore only + re-examined our arms, and increased the ammunition to one hundred rounds. + Our chiefs, who had not the same motives of confidence, were by no means + so much at their ease, and when at night they saw the Indians leave us + earlier than usual, their suspicions of an intended attack were confirmed, + and they were very much alarmed. + </p> + <p> + “The Indians approached us with apparent caution, and behaved with more + than usual reserve. Our two chiefs, by whom these circumstances were not + observed, now told us that they wished to return home; that they could be + no longer of any service to us; that they could not understand the + language of the people below the falls; that those people formed a + different nation from their own; that the two people had been at war with + each other; and that as the Indians had expressed a resolution to attack + us, they would certainly kill them. We endeavored to quiet their fears, + and requested them to stay two nights longer, in which time we would see + the Indians below, and make a peace between the two nations. They replied + that they were anxious to return and see their horses. We however insisted + on their remaining with us, not only in hopes of bringing about an + accommodation between them and their enemies, but because they might be + able to detect any hostile designs against us, and also assist us in + passing the next falls, which are not far off, and represented as very + difficult. They at length agreed to stay with us two nights longer.” + </p> + <p> + The explorers now arrived at the next fall of the Columbia. Here was a + quiet basin, on the margin of which were three Indian huts. The journal + tells the rest of the story:— + </p> + <p> + “At the extremity of this basin stood a high black rock, which, rising + perpendicularly from the right shore, seemed to run wholly across the + river: so totally, indeed, did it appear to stop the passage, that we + could not see where the water escaped, except that the current was + seemingly drawn with more than usual velocity to the left of the rock, + where was heard a great roaring. We landed at the huts of the Indians, who + went with us to the top of the rock, from which we had a view of all the + difficulties of the channel. We were now no longer at a loss to account + for the rising of the river at the falls; for this tremendous rock was + seen stretching across the river, to meet the high hills on the left + shore, leaving a channel of only forty-five yards wide, through which the + whole body of the Columbia pressed its way. The water, thus forced into so + narrow a passage, was thrown into whirls, and swelled and boiled in every + part with the wildest agitation. But the alternative of carrying the boats + over this high rock was almost impossible in our present situation; and as + the chief danger seemed to be, not from any obstructions in the channel, + but from the great waves and whirlpools, we resolved to attempt the + passage, in the hope of being able, by dexterous steering, to descend in + safety. This we undertook, and with great care were able to get through, + to the astonishment of the Indians in the huts we had just passed, who now + collected to see us from the top of the rock. The channel continued thus + confined for the space of about half a mile, when the rock ceased. We + passed a single Indian hut at the foot of it, where the river again + enlarges to the width of two hundred yards, and at the distance of a mile + and a half stopped to view a very bad rapid; this is formed by two rocky + islands which divide the channel, the lower and larger of which is in the + middle of the river. The appearance of this place was so unpromising that + we unloaded all the most valuable articles, such as guns, ammunition, our + papers, etc., and sent them by land, with all the men that could not swim, + to the extremity of these rapids. We then descended with the canoes, two + at a time; though the canoes took in some water, we all went through + safely; after which we made two miles, stopped in a deep bend of the river + toward the right, and camped a little above a large village of twenty-one + houses. Here we landed; and as it was late before all the canoes joined + us, we were obliged to remain this evening, the difficulties of the + navigation having permitted us to make only six miles.” + </p> + <p> + They were then among the Echeloots, a tribe of the Upper Chinooks, now + nearly extinct. The white men were much interested in the houses of these + people, which, their journal set forth, were “the first wooden buildings + seen since leaving the Illinois country.” This is the manner of their + construction:— + </p> + <p> + “A large hole, twenty feet wide and thirty in length, was dug to the depth + of six feet; the sides of which were lined with split pieces of timber + rising just above the surface of the ground, and smoothed to the same + width by burning, or by being shaved with small iron axes. These timbers + were secured in their erect position by a pole stretched along the side of + the building near the eaves, and supported on a strong post fixed at each + corner. The timbers at the gable ends rose gradually higher, the middle + pieces being the broadest. At the top of these was a sort of semicircle, + made to receive a ridge-pole the whole length of the house, propped by an + additional post in the middle, and forming the top of the roof. From this + ridge-pole to the eaves of the house were placed a number of small poles + or rafters, secured at each end by fibres of the cedar. On these poles, + which were connected by small transverse bars of wood, was laid a covering + of white cedar, or arbor vitae, kept on by strands of cedar fibres; but a + small space along the whole length of the ridge-pole was left uncovered, + for the purpose of light, and of permitting the smoke to pass out. The + roof, thus formed, had a descent about equal to that common among us, and + near the eaves it was perforated with a number of small holes, made, most + probably, for the discharge of arrows in case of an attack. The only + entrance was by a small door at the gable end, cut out of the middle piece + of timber, twenty-nine and a half inches high, fourteen inches broad, and + reaching only eighteen inches above the earth. Before this hole is hung a + mat; on pushing it aside and crawling through, the descent is by a small + wooden ladder, made in the form of those used among us. One-half of the + inside is used as a place of deposit for dried fish, of which large + quantities are stored away, and with a few baskets of berries form the + only family provisions; the other half, adjoining the door, remains for + the accommodation of the family. On each side are arranged near the walls + small beds of mats placed on little scaffolds or bedsteads, raised from + eighteen inches to three feet from the ground; and in the middle of the + vacant space is the fire, or sometimes two or three fires, when, as is + usually the case, the house contains three families.” + </p> + <p> + Houses very like these are built by the Ahts or Nootkas, a tribe of + Indians inhabiting parts of Vancouver Island and the adjacent mainland. A + Nootka calls his house an ourt. + </p> + <p> + The good offices of Lewis and Clark, who were always ready to make peace + between hostile tribes, were again successful here. The Echeloots received + the white men with much kindness, invited them to their houses, and + returned their visits after the explorers had camped. Lewis and Clark told + the Echeloot chiefs that the war was destroying them and their industries, + bringing want and privation upon them. The Indians listened with attention + to what was said, and after some talk they agreed to make peace with their + ancient enemies. Impressed with the sincerity of this agreement, the + captains of the expedition invested the principal chief with a medal and + some small articles of clothing. The two faithful chiefs who had + accompanied the white men from the headwaters of the streams now bade + farewell to their friends and allies, the explorers. They bought horses of + the Echeloots and returned to their distant homes by land. + </p> + <p> + Game here became more abundant, and on the twenty-sixth of October the + journal records the fact that they received from the Indians a present of + deer-meat, and on that day their hunters found plenty of tracks of elk and + deer in the mountains, and they brought in five deer, four very large gray + squirrels, and a grouse. Besides these delicacies, one of the men killed + in the river a salmon-trout which was fried in bear’s oil and, according + to the journal, “furnished a dish of a very delightful flavor,” doubtless + a pleasing change from the diet of dog’s flesh with which they had so + recently been regaled. + </p> + <p> + Two of the Echeloot chiefs remained with the white men to guide them on + their way down the river. These were joined by seven others of their + tribe, to whom the explorers were kind and attentive. But the visitors + could not resist the temptation to pilfer from the goods exposed to dry in + the sun. Being checked in this sly business, they became ill-humored and + returned, angry, down the river. + </p> + <p> + The explorers noticed here that the Indians flattened the heads of males + as well as females. Higher up the river, only the women and female + children had flat heads. The custom of artificially flattening the heads + of both men and women, in infancy, was formerly practised by nearly all + the tribes of the Chinook family along the Columbia River. Various means + are used to accomplish this purpose, the most common and most cruel being + to bind a flat board on the forehead of an infant in such a way that it + presses on the skull and forces the forehead up on to the top of the head. + As a man whose head has been flattened in infancy grows older, the + deformity partly disappears; but the flatness of the head is always + regarded as a tribal badge of great merit. + </p> + <p> + “On the morning of the twenty-eighth,” says the journal, having dried our + goods, we were about setting out, when three canoes came from above to + visit us, and at the same time two others from below arrived for the same + purpose. Among these last was an Indian who wore his hair in a que, and + had on a round hat and a sailor’s jacket, which he said he had obtained + from the people below the great rapids, who bought them from the whites. + This interview detained us till nine o’clock, when we proceeded down the + river, which is now bordered with cliffs of loose dark colored rocks about + ninety feet high, with a thin covering of pines and other small trees. At + the distance of four miles we reached a small village of eight houses + under some high rocks on the right with a small creek on the opposite side + of the river. + </p> + <p> + “We landed and found the houses similar to those we had seen at the great + narrows; on entering one of them we saw a British musket, a cutlass, and + several brass tea-kettles, of which they seemed to be very fond. There + were figures of men, birds, and different animals, which were cut and + painted on the boards which form the sides of the room; though the + workmanship of these uncouth figures was very rough, they were highly + esteemed by the Indians as the finest frescos of more civilized people. + This tribe is called the Chilluckittequaw; their language, though somewhat + different from that of the Echeloots, has many of the same words, and is + sufficiently intelligible to the neighboring Indians. We procured from + them a vocabulary, and then, after buying five small dogs, some dried + berries, and a white bread or cake made of roots, we left them. The wind, + however, rose so high that we were obliged, after going one mile, to land + on the left side, opposite a rocky island, and pass the day.” + </p> + <p> + On the same day the white chiefs visited one of the most prominent of the + native houses built along the river. + </p> + <p> + “This,” says the journal, “was the residence of the principal chief of the + Chilluckittequaw nation, who we found was the same between whom and our + two chiefs we had made a peace at the Echeloot village. He received us, + very kindly, and set before us pounded fish, filberts, nuts, the berries + of the sacacommis, and white bread made of roots. We gave, in return, a + bracelet of ribbon to each of the women of the house, with which they were + very much pleased. The chief had several articles, such as scarlet and + blue cloth, a sword, a jacket, and a hat, which must have been procured + from the whites, and on one side of the room were two wide, split boards, + placed together so as to make space for a rude figure of a man cut and + painted on them. On pointing to this, and asking him what it meant, he + said something, of which all that we understood was ‘good,’ and then + stepped up to the painting, and took out his bow and quiver, which, with + some other warlike instruments, were kept behind it. + </p> + <p> + “He then directed his wife to hand him his medicine-bag, from which he + drew out fourteen forefingers, which he told us had belonged to the same + number of his enemies, whom he had killed in fighting with the nations to + the southeast, in which direction he pointed; alluding, no doubt, to the + Snake Indians, the common enemy of the tribes on the Columbia. This bag is + usually about two feet in length, and contains roots, pounded dirt, etc., + which only the Indians know how to appreciate. It is suspended in the + middle of the lodge; and it is considered as a species of sacrilege for + any one but the owner to touch it. It is an object of religious fear; and, + from its supposed sanctity, is the chief place for depositing their medals + and more valuable articles. They have likewise small bags, which they + preserve in their great medicine-bag, from whence they are taken, and worn + around their waists and necks as amulets against any real or imaginary + evils. This was the first time we had been apprised that the Indians ever + carried from the field any other trophy than the scalp. These fingers were + shown with great exultation; and, after an harangue, which we were left to + presume was in praise of his exploits, the chief carefully replaced them + among the valuable contents of his red medicine-bag. The inhabitants of + this village being part of the same nation with those of the village we + had passed above, the language of the two was the same, and their houses + were of similar form and materials, and calculated to contain about thirty + souls. They were unusually hospitable and good-humored, so that we gave to + the place the name of the Friendly village. We breakfasted here; and after + purchasing twelve dogs, four sacks of fish, and a few dried berries, + proceeded on our journey. The hills as we passed were high, with steep, + rocky sides, with pine and white oak, and an undergrowth of shrubs + scattered over them.” + </p> + <p> + Leaving the Friendly village, the party went on their way down the river. + Four miles below they came to a small and rapid river which they called + the Cataract River, but which is now known as the Klikitat. The rapids of + the stream, according to the Indians, were so numerous that salmon could + not ascend it, and the Indians who lived along its banks subsisted on what + game they could kill with their bows and arrows and on the berries which, + in certain seasons, were plentiful. Again we notice the purchase of dogs; + this time only four were bought, and the party proceeded on their way. + That night, having travelled thirty-two miles, they camped on the right + bank of the river in what is now Skamania County, Washington. Three huts + were inhabited by a considerable number of Indians, of whom the journal + has this to say:— + </p> + <p> + “On our first arrival they seemed surprised, but not alarmed, and we soon + became intimate by means of smoking and our favorite entertainment for the + Indians, the violin. They gave us fruit, roots, and root-bread, and we + purchased from them three dogs. The houses of these people are similar to + those of the Indians above, and their language is the same; their dress + also, consisting of robes or skins of wolves, deer, elk, and wildcat, is + made nearly after the same model; their hair is worn in plaits down each + shoulder, and round their neck is put a strip of some skin with the tail + of the animal hanging down over the breast; like the Indians above, they + are fond of otter-skins, and give a great price for them. We here saw the + skin of a mountain sheep, which they say lives among the rocks in the + mountains; the skin was covered with white hair; the wool was long, thick, + and coarse, with long coarse hair on the top of the neck and on the back, + resembling somewhat the bristles of a goat. Immediately behind the village + is a pond, in which were great numbers of small swan.” + </p> + <p> + The “mountain sheep” mentioned here are not the bighorn of which we have + heard something in the earlier part of this narrative, but a species of + wild goat found among the Cascade Mountains. The “wildcat” above referred + to is probably that variety of lynx known in Canada and most of the + Northern States and the Pacific as the <i>loup-cervier</i>, or vulgarly, + the “lucifee.” + </p> + <p> + On the last day of October, the next of the more difficult rapids being + near, Captain Clark went ahead to examine the “shoot,” as the explorers + called the place which we know as the chute. In the thick wood that + bordered the river he found an ancient burial-place which he thus + describes:— + </p> + <p> + “It consists of eight vaults made of pine or cedar boards closely + connected, about eight feet square and six in height; the top covered with + wide boards sloping a little, so as to convey off the rain. The direction + of all of these vaults is east and west, the door being on the eastern + side, partially stopped with wide boards decorated with rude pictures of + men and other animals. On entering he found in some of them four dead + bodies, carefully wrapped in skins, tied with cords of grass and bark, + lying on a mat, in a direction east and west. The other vaults contained + only bones, which were in some of them piled to the height of four feet. + On the tops of the vaults, and on poles attached to them, bung brass + kettles and frying-pans with holes in their bottoms, baskets, bowls, + sea-shells, skins, pieces of cloth, hair, bags of trinkets and small bones—the + offerings of friendship or affection, which have been saved by a pious + veneration from the ferocity of war, or the more dangerous temptations of + individual gain. The whole of the walls as well as the door were decorated + with strange figures cut and painted on them; and besides were several + wooden images of men, some so old and decayed as to have almost lost their + shape, which were all placed against the sides of the vaults. These + images, as well as those in the houses we have lately seen, do not appear + to be at all the objects of adoration; in this place they were most + probably intended as resemblances of those whose decease they indicate; + when we observe them in houses, they occupy the most conspicuous part, but + are treated more like ornaments than objects of worship.” + </p> + <p> + The white men were visited at their camp by many Indians from the villages + farther up the stream. The journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “We had an opportunity of seeing to-day the hardihood of the Indians of + the neighboring village. One of the men shot a goose, which fell into the + river and was floating rapidly toward the great shoot, when an Indian + observing it plunged in after it. The whole mass of the waters of the + Columbia, just preparing to descend its narrow channel, carried the animal + down with great rapidity. The Indian followed it fearlessly to within one + hundred and fifty feet of the rocks, where he would inevitably have been + dashed to pieces; but seizing his prey he turned round and swam ashore + with great composure. We very willingly relinquished our right to the bird + in favor of the Indian who had thus saved it at the imminent hazard of his + life; he immediately set to work and picked off about half the feathers, + and then, without opening it, ran a stick through it and carried it off to + roast.” + </p> + <p> + With many hair’s-breadth escapes, the expedition now passed through the + rapids or “great shoot.” The river here is one hundred and fifty yards + wide and the rapids are confined to an area four hundred yards long, + crowded with islands and rocky ledges. They found the Indians living along + the banks of the stream to be kindly disposed; but they had learned, by + their intercourse with tribes living below, to set a high value on their + wares. They asked high prices for anything they had for sale. The journal + says:— + </p> + <p> + “We cannot learn precisely the nature of the trade carried on by the + Indians with the inhabitants below. But as their knowledge of the whites + seems to be very imperfect, and as the only articles which they carry to + market, such as pounded fish, bear-grass, and roots, cannot be an object + of much foreign traffic, their intercourse appears to be an intermediate + trade with the natives near the mouth of the Columbia. From them these + people obtain, in exchange for their fish, roots, and bear-grass, blue and + white beads, copper tea-kettles, brass armbands, some scarlet and blue + robes, and a few articles of old European clothing. But their great object + is to obtain beads, an article which holds the first place in their ideas + of relative value, and to procure which they will sacrifice their last + article of clothing or last mouthful of food. Independently of their + fondness for them as an ornament, these beads are the medium of trade, by + which they obtain from the Indians still higher up the river, robes, + skins, chappelel bread, bear-grass, etc. Those Indians in turn employ them + to procure from the Indians in the Rocky Mountains, bear-grass, + pachico-roots, robes, etc. + </p> + <p> + “These Indians are rather below the common size, with high cheek-bones; + their noses are pierced, and in full dress ornamented with a tapering + piece of white shell or wampum about two inches long. Their eyes are + exceedingly sore and weak; many of them have only a single eye, and some + are perfectly blind. Their teeth prematurely decay, and in frequent + instances are altogether worn away. Their general health, however, seems + to be good, the only disorder we have remarked being tumors in different + parts of the body.” + </p> + <p> + The more difficult rapid was passed on the second day of November, the + luggage being sent down by land and the empty canoes taken down with great + care. The journal of that date says:— + </p> + <p> + “The rapid we have just passed is the last of all the descents of the + Columbia. At this place the first tidewater commences, and the river in + consequence widens immediately below the rapid. As we descended we + reached, at the distance of one mile from the rapid, a creek under a bluff + on the left; at three miles is the lower point of Strawberry Island. To + this immediately succeed three small islands covered with wood. In the + meadow to the right, at some distance from the hills, stands a + perpendicular rock about eight hundred feet high and four hundred yards + around the base. This we called Beacon Rock. Just below is an Indian + village of nine houses, situated between two small creeks. At this village + the river widens to nearly a mile in extent; the low grounds become wider, + and they as well as the mountains on each side are covered with pine, + spruce-pine, cottonwood, a species of ash, and some alder. After being so + long accustomed to the dreary nakedness of the country above, the change + is as grateful to the eye as it is useful in supplying us with fuel. Four + miles from the village is a point of land on the right, where the hills + become lower, but are still thickly timbered. The river is now about two + miles wide, the current smooth and gentle, and the effect of the tide has + been sensible since leaving the rapid. Six miles lower is a rock rising + from the middle of the river to the height of one hundred feet, and about + eighty yards at its base. We continued six miles further, and halted for + the night under a high projecting rock on the left side of the river, + opposite the point of a large meadow. + </p> + <p> + “The mountains, which, from the great shoot to this place, are high, + rugged, and thickly covered with timber, chiefly of the pine species, here + leave the river on each side; the river becomes two and one-half miles in + width; the low grounds are extensive and well supplied with wood. The + Indians whom we left at the portage passed us on their way down the river, + and seven others, who were descending in a canoe for the purpose of + trading below, camped with us. We had made from the foot of the great + shoot twenty-nine miles to-day. The ebb tide rose at our camp about nine + inches; the flood must rise much higher. We saw great numbers of + water-fowl, such as swan, geese, ducks of various kinds, gulls, plovers, + and the white and gray brant, of which last we killed eighteen.” + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0017" id="link2HCH0017"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XVII — From Tidewater to the Sea + </h2> + <p> + Near the mouth of the river which the explorers named Quicksand River (now + Sandy), they met a party of fifteen Indians who had lately been down to + the mouth of the Columbia. These people told the white men that they had + seen three vessels at anchor below, and, as these must needs be American, + or European, the far-voyaging explorers were naturally pleased. When they + had camped that night, they received other visitors of whom the journal + makes mention:— + </p> + <p> + “A canoe soon after arrived from the village at the foot of the last + rapid, with an Indian and his family, consisting of a wife, three + children, and a woman who had been taken prisoner from the Snake Indians, + living on a river from the south, which we afterward found to be the + Multnomah. Sacajawea was immediately introduced to her, in hopes that, + being a Snake Indian, they might understand each other; but their language + was not sufficiently intelligible to permit them to converse together. The + Indian had a gun with a brass barrel and cock, which he appeared to value + highly.” + </p> + <p> + The party had missed the Multnomah River in their way down, although this + is one of the three largest tributaries of the Columbia, John Day’s River + and the Des Chutes being the other two. A group of islands near the mouth + of the Multnomah hides it from the view of the passing voyager. The stream + is now more generally known as the Willamette, or Wallamet. The large city + of Portland, Oregon, is built on the river, about twelve miles from its + junction with the Columbia. The Indian tribes along the banks of the + Multnomah, or Willamette, subsisted largely on the wappatoo, an eatable + root, about the size of a hen’s egg and closely resembling a potato. This + root is much sought after by the Indians and is eagerly bought by tribes + living in regions where it is not to be found. The party made great use of + the wappatoo after they had learned how well it served in place of bread. + They bought here all that the Indians could spare and then made their way + down the river to an open prairie where they camped for dinner and found + many signs of elk and deer. The journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “When we landed for dinner, a number of Indians from the last village came + down for the purpose, as we supposed, of paying us a friendly visit, as + they had put on their favorite dresses. In addition to their usual + covering they had scarlet and blue blankets, sailors’ jackets and + trousers, shirts and hats. They had all of them either war-axes, spears, + and bows and arrows, or muskets and pistols, with tin powder-flasks. We + smoked with them and endeavored to show them every attention, but we soon + found them very assuming and disagreeable companions. While we were + eating, they stole the pipe with which they were smoking, and the + greatcoat of one of the men. We immediately searched them all, and + discovered the coat stuffed under the root of a tree near where they were + sitting; but the pipe we could not recover. Finding us determined not to + suffer any imposition, and discontented with them, they showed their + displeasure in the only way which they dared, by returning in an ill-humor + to their village. + </p> + <p> + “We then proceeded and soon met two canoes, with twelve men of the same + Skilloot nation, who were on their way from below. The larger of the + canoes was ornamented with the figure of a bear in the bow and a man in + the stern, both nearly as large as life, both made of painted wood and + very neatly fixed to the boat. In the same canoe were two Indians, finely + dressed and with round hats. This circumstance induced us to give the name + of Image-canoe to the large island, the lower end of which we now passed + at the distance of nine miles from its head.” + </p> + <p> + Here they had their first full view of Mt. St. Helen’s, sometimes called + Mt. Ranier. The peak is in Washington and is 9,750 feet high. It has a + sugar-loaf, or conical, shape and is usually covered with snow. The + narrative of the expedition continues as follows:— + </p> + <p> + “The Skilloots that we passed to-day speak a language somewhat different + from that of the Echeloots or Chilluckittequaws near the long narrows. + Their dress, however, is similar, except that the Skilloots possess more + articles procured from the white traders; and there is this farther + difference between them, that the Skilloots, both males and females, have + the head flattened. Their principal food is fish, wappatoo roots, and some + elk and deer, in killing which with arrows they seem to be very expert; + for during the short time we remained at the village, three deer were + brought in. We also observed there a tame blaireau, (badger).” + </p> + <p> + The journal, November 5, says:— + </p> + <p> + “Our choice of a camp had been very unfortunate; for on a sand-island + opposite us were immense numbers of geese, swan, ducks, and other wild + fowl, which during the whole night serenaded us with a confusion of noises + which completely prevented our sleeping. During the latter part of the + night it rained, and we therefore willingly left camp at an early hour. We + passed at three miles a small prairie, where the river is only + three-quarters of a mile in width, and soon after two houses on the left, + half a mile distant from each other; from one of which three men came in a + canoe merely to look at us, and having done so returned home. At eight + miles we came to the lower point of an island, separated from the right + side by a narrow channel, on which, a short distance above the end of the + island, is situated a large village. It is built more compactly than the + generality of the Indian villages, and the front has fourteen houses, + which are ranged for a quarter of a mile along the channel. As soon as we + were discovered seven canoes came out to see us, and after some traffic, + during which they seemed well disposed and orderly, accompanied us a short + distance below.” + </p> + <p> + The explorers now met Indians of a different nation from those whom they + had seen before. The journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “These people seem to be of a different nation from those we have just + passed; they are low in stature, ill shaped, and all have their heads + flattened. They call themselves Wahkiacum, and their language differs from + that of the tribes above, with whom they trade for wappatoo-roots. The + houses are built in a different style, being raised entirely above ground, + with the caves about five feet high and the door at the corner. Near the + end, opposite this door, is a single fireplace, round which are the beds, + raised four feet from the floor of earth; over the fire are hung the fresh + fish, which, when dried, are stowed away with the wappatoo-roots under the + beds. The dress of the men is like that of the people above, but the women + are clad in a peculiar manner, the robe not reaching lower than the hip, + and the body being covered in cold weather by a sort of corset of fur, + curiously plaited and reaching from the arms to the hip; added to this is + a sort of petticoat, or rather tissue of white cedar bark, bruised or + broken into small strands, and woven into a girdle by several cords of the + same material. Being tied round the middle, these strands hang down as low + as the knee in front, and to the mid-leg behind; they are of sufficient + thickness to answer the purpose of concealment whilst the female stands in + an erect position, but in any other attitude form but a very ineffectual + defence. Sometimes the tissue is strings of silk-grass, twisted and + knotted at the end. After remaining with them about an hour, we proceeded + down the channel with an Indian dressed in a sailor’s jacket for our + pilot, and on reaching the main channel were visited by some Indians who + have a temporary residence on a marshy island in the middle of the river, + where is a great abundance of water-fowl.” + </p> + <p> + The tribe of Indians known as the Wahkiacums has entirely disappeared; but + the name survives as that of one of the counties of Washington bordering + on the Columbia. Wahkiacum is the county lying next west of Cowlitz. When + the explorers passed down the river under the piloting of their Indian + friend wearing a sailor’s jacket, they were in a thick fog. This cleared + away and a sight greeted their joyful vision. Their story says:— + </p> + <p> + “At a distance of twenty miles from our camp, we halted at a village of + Wahkiacums, consisting of seven ill-looking houses, built in the same form + with those above, and situated at the foot of the high hills on the right, + behind two small marshy islands. We merely stopped to purchase some food + and two beaver skins, and then proceeded. Opposite to these islands the + hills on the left retire, and the river widens into a kind of bay, crowded + with low islands, subject to be overflowed occasionally by the tide. We + had not gone far from this village when, the fog suddenly clearing away, + we were at last presented with the glorious sight of the ocean—that + ocean, the object of all our labors, the reward of all our anxieties. This + animating sight exhilarated the spirits of all the party, who were still + more delighted on hearing the distant roar of the breakers. We went on + with great cheerfulness along the high, mountainous country which bordered + the right bank: the shore, however, was so bold and rocky, that we could + not, until at a distance of fourteen miles from the last village, find any + spot fit for an encampment. Having made during the day thirty-four miles, + we now spread our mats on the ground, and passed the night in the rain. + Here we were joined by our small canoe, which had been separated from us + during the fog this morning. Two Indians from the last village also + accompanied us to the camp; but, having detected them in stealing a knife, + they were sent off.” + </p> + <p> + It is not very easy for us, who have lived comfortably at home, or who + have travelled only in luxurious railway-cars and handsomely equipped + steamers, to realize the joy and rapture with which these far-wandering + explorers hailed the sight of the sea,—the sea to which they had so + long been journeying, through deserts, mountain-passes, and tangled + wildernesses. In his diary Captain Clark thus sets down some indication of + his joy on that memorable day, November 8, 1805: “Great joy in camp. We + are in view of the Ocean, this great Pacific Ocean which we have been so + long anxious to see, and the roaring or noise made by the waves breaking + on the rocky shores (as I suppose) may be heard distinctly.” Later, same + day, he says, “Ocean in view! O! the joy!” Fortunately, the hardships to + be undergone on the shores of the ocean were then unknown and undreamed + of; the travellers were thankful to see the sea, the goal of all their + hopes, the end of their long pilgrimage across the continent. + </p> + <p> + That night they camped near the mouth of the river in what is now known as + Gray’s Bay, on the north side of the river, in the southwest corner of + Wahkiacum County. Before they could reach their camping-place, the water + was so rough that some of the men had an unusual experience,—seasickness. + They passed a disagreeable night on a narrow, rocky bench of land. Next + day they say: + </p> + <p> + “Fortunately for us, the tide did not rise as high as our camp during the + night; but being accompanied by high winds from the south, the canoes, + which we could not place beyond its reach, were filled with water, and + were saved with much difficulty. Our position was very uncomfortable, but + as it was impossible to move from it, we waited for a change of weather. + It rained, however, during the whole day, and at two o’clock in the + afternoon the flood tide set in, accompanied by a high wind from the + south, which, about four o’clock, shifted to the southwest and blew almost + a gale directly from the sea. The immense waves now broke over the place + where we were camped; the large trees, some of them five or six feet + thick, which had lodged at the point, were drifted over our camp, and the + utmost vigilance of every man could scarcely save our canoes from being + crushed to pieces. We remained in the water, and drenched with rain, + during the rest of the day, our only food being some dried fish and some + rain-water which we caught. Yet, though wet and cold, and some of them + sick from using salt water, the men were cheerful, and full of anxiety to + see more of the ocean. The rain continued all night.” + </p> + <p> + This was the beginning of troubles. Next day, the wind having lulled, the + party set forth again, only to be beaten back and compelled to take to the + shore again. This was their experience for several days. For example, + under date of the eleventh the journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “The wind was still high from the southwest, and drove the waves against + the shore with great fury; the rain too fell in torrents, and not only + drenched us to the skin, but loosened the stones on the hillsides, which + then came rolling down upon us. In this comfortless situation we remained + all day, wet, cold, with nothing but dried fish to satisfy our hunger; the + canoes in one place at the mercy of the waves, the baggage in another, and + all the men scattered on floating logs, or sheltering themselves in the + crevices of the rocks and hillsides. A hunter was despatched in hopes of + finding some fresh meat; but the hills were so steep, and so covered with + undergrowth and fallen timber, that he could not penetrate them, and he + was forced to return.” + </p> + <p> + And this is the record for the next day:— + </p> + <p> + “About three o’clock a tremendous gale of wind arose accompanied with + lightning, thunder, and hail: at six it lightened up for a short time, but + a violent rain soon began, and lasted through the day. During the storm, + one of our boats, secured by being sunk with great quantities of stone, + got loose, but, drifting against a rock, was recovered without having + received much injury. Our situation now became much more dangerous, for + the waves were driven with fury against the rocks and trees, which till + now had afforded us refuge: we therefore took advantage of the low tide, + and moved about half a mile round a point to a small brook, which we had + not observed before on account of the thick bushes and driftwood which + concealed its mouth. Here we were more safe, but still cold and wet; our + clothes and bedding rotten as well as wet, our baggage at a distance, and + the canoes, our only means of escape from this place, at the mercy of the + waves. Still, we continued to enjoy good health, and even had the luxury + of feasting on some salmon and three salmon trout which we caught in the + brook. Three of the men attempted to go round a point in our small Indian + canoe, but the high waves rendered her quite unmanageable, these boats + requiring the seamanship of the natives to make them live in so rough a + sea.” + </p> + <p> + It should be borne in mind that the canoes of the explorers were poor + dug-outs, unfit to navigate the turbulent waters of the bay, and the men + were not so expert in that sort of seamanship as were the Indians whom + they, with envy, saw breasting the waves and making short voyages in the + midst of the storms. It continued to rain without any intermission, and + the waves dashed up among the floating logs of the camp in a very + distracting manner. The party now had nothing but dried fish to eat, and + it was with great difficulty that a fire could be built. On the fifteenth + of the month, Captain Lewis having found a better camping-place near a + sandy beach, they started to move their luggage thither; but before they + could get under way, a high wind from the southwest sprung up and they + were forced to remain. But the sun came out and they were enabled to dry + their stuff, much of which had been spoiled by the rain which had + prevailed for the past ten days. Their fish also was no longer fit to eat, + and they were indeed in poor case. Captain Lewis was out on a prospecting + trip, and the party set out and found a beach through which a pleasant + brook flowed to the river, making a very good camping-place. At the mouth + of this stream was an ancient Chinook village, which, says the journal, + “has at present no inhabitants but fleas.” The adventurers were compelled + to steer wide of all old Indian villages, they were so infested with + fleas. At times, so great was the pest, the men were forced to take off + all their clothing and soak themselves and their garments in the river + before they could be rid of the insects. The site of their new camp was at + the southeast end of Baker’s Bay, sometimes called Haley’s Bay, a mile + above a very high point of rocks. On arriving at this place, the voyagers + met with an unpleasant experience of which the journal gives this account:— + </p> + <p> + “Here we met Shannon, who had been sent back to meet us by Captain Lewis. + The day Shannon left us in the canoe, he and Willard proceeded till they + met a party of twenty Indians, who, having never heard of us, did not know + where they (our men) came from; they, however, behaved with so much + civility, and seemed so anxious that the men should go with them toward + the sea, that their suspicions were excited, and they declined going on. + The Indians, however, would not leave them; the men being confirmed in + their suspicions, and fearful that if they went into the woods to sleep + they would be cut to pieces in the night, thought it best to pass the + night in the midst of the Indians. They therefore made a fire, and after + talking with them to a late hour, laid down with their rifles under their + heads. As they awoke that morning they found that the Indians had stolen + and concealed their guns. Having demanded them in vain, Shannon seized a + club, and was about assaulting one of the Indians, whom he suspected as a + thief, when another Indian began to load a fowling-piece with the + intention of shooting him. He therefore stopped, and explained by signs + that if they did not give up the guns a large party would come down the + river before the sun rose to such a height, and put every one of them to + death. Fortunately, Captain Lewis and his party appeared at this time. The + terrified Indians immediately brought the guns, and five of them came on + with Shannon. To these men we declared that if ever any one of their + nation stole anything from us, he should be instantly shot. They reside to + the north of this place, and speak a language different from that of the + people higher up the river. + </p> + <p> + “It was now apparent that the sea was at all times too rough for us to + proceed further down the bay by water. We therefore landed, and having + chosen the best spot we could select, made our camp of boards from the old + (Chinook) village. We were now situated comfortably, and being visited by + four Wahkiacums with wappatoo-roots, were enabled to make an agreeable + addition to our food.” + </p> + <p> + On the seventeenth Captain Lewis with a small party of his men coasted the + bay as far out as Cape Disappointment and some distance to the north along + the seacoast. Game was now plenty, and the camp was supplied with ducks, + geese, and venison. Bad weather again set in. The journal under date of + November 22 says:— + </p> + <p> + “It rained during the whole night, and about daylight a tremendous gale of + wind rose from the S.S.E., and continued through the day with great + violence. The sea ran so high that the water came into our camp, which the + rain prevents us from leaving. We purchased from the old squaw, for + armbands and rings, a few wappatoo-roots, on which we subsisted. They are + nearly equal in flavor to the Irish potato, and afford a very good + substitute for bread. The bad weather drove several Indians to our camp, + but they were still under the terrors of the threat which we made on first + seeing them, and behaved with the greatest decency. + </p> + <p> + “The rain continued through the night, November 23, and the morning was + calm and cloudy. The hunters were sent out, and killed three deer, four + brant, and three ducks. Towards evening seven Clatsops came over in a + canoe, with two skins of the sea-otter. To this article they attached an + extravagant value; and their demands for it were so high, that we were + fearful it would too much reduce our small stock of merchandise, on which + we had to depend for subsistence on our return, to venture on purchasing + it. To ascertain, however, their ideas as to the value of different + objects, we offered for one of these skins a watch, a handkerchief, an + American dollar, and a bunch of red beads; but neither the curious + mechanism of the watch, nor even the red beads, could tempt the owner: he + refused the offer, but asked for tiacomoshack, or chief beads, the most + common sort of coarse blue-colored beads, the article beyond all price in + their estimation. Of these blue beads we had but few, and therefore + reserved them for more necessitous circumstances.” + </p> + <p> + The officers of the expedition had hoped and expected to find here some of + the trading ships that were occasionally sent along the coast to barter + with the natives; but none were to be found. They were soon to prepare for + winter-quarters, and they still hoped that a trader might appear in the + spring before they set out on their homeward journey across the continent. + Very much they needed trinkets to deal with the natives in exchange for, + the needful articles of food on the route. But (we may as well say here) + no such relief ever appeared. It is strange that President Jefferson, in + the midst of his very minute orders and preparations for the benefit of + the explorers, did not think of sending a relief ship to meet the party at + the mouth of the Columbia. They would have been saved a world of care, + worry, and discomfort. But at that time the European nations who held + possessions on the Pacific coast were very suspicious of the Americans, + and possibly President Jefferson did not like to risk rousing their + animosity. + </p> + <p> + The rain that now deluged the unhappy campers was so incessant that they + might well have thought that people should be web-footed to live in such a + watery region. In these later days, Oregon is sometimes known as “The + Web-foot State.” Captain Clark, in his diary, November 28, makes this + entry: “O! how disagreeable is our situation dureing this dreadfull + weather!” The gallant captain’s spelling was sometimes queer. Under that + date he adds:— + </p> + <p> + “We remained during the day in a situation the most cheerless and + uncomfortable. On this little neck of land we are exposed, with a + miserable covering which does not deserve the name of a shelter, to the + violence of the winds; all our bedding and stores, as well as our bodies, + are completely wet; our clothes are rotting with constant exposure, and we + have no food except the dried fish brought from the falls, to which we are + again reduced. The hunters all returned hungry and drenched with rain, + having seen neither deer nor elk, and the swan and brant were too shy to + be approached. At noon the wind shifted to the northwest, and blew with + such tremendous fury that many trees were blown down near us. This gale + lasted with short intervals during the whole night.” + </p> + <p> + Of course, in the midst of such violent storms, it was impossible to get + game, and the men were obliged to resort once more to a diet of dried + fish, This food caused much sickness in the camp, and it became + imperatively necessary that efforts should again be made to find game. On + the second of December, to their great joy an elk was killed, and next day + they had a feast. The journal says; + </p> + <p> + “The wind was from the east and the morning fair; but, as if one whole day + of fine weather were not permitted, toward night it began to rain. Even + this transient glimpse of sunshine revived the spirits of the party, who + were still more pleased when the elk killed yesterday was brought into + camp. This was the first elk we had killed on the west side of the Rocky + Mountains, and condemned as we have been to the dried fish, it formed a + most nourishing food. After eating the marrow of the shank-bones, the + squaw chopped them fine, and by boiling extracted a pint of grease, + superior to the tallow itself of the animal. A canoe of eight Indians, who + were carrying down wappatoo-roots to trade with the Clatsops, stopped at + our camp; we bought a few roots for small fish-hooks, and they then left + us. Accustomed as we were to the sight, we could not but view with + admiration the wonderful dexterity with which they guide their canoes over + the most boisterous seas; for though the waves were so high that before + they had gone half a mile the canoe was several times out of sight, they + proceeded with the greatest calmness and security. Two of the hunters who + set out yesterday had lost their way, and did not return till this + evening. They had seen in their ramble great signs of elk and had killed + six, which they had butchered and left at a great distance. A party was + sent in the morning.” + </p> + <p> + On the third of December Captain Clark carved on the trunk of a great pine + tree this inscription:— + </p> + <p> + “WM. CLARK DECEMBER 3D 1805 BY LAND FROM THE U. STATES IN 1804 & 5.” + </p> + <p> + A few days later, Captain Lewis took with him a small party and set out to + find a suitable spot on which to build their winter camp. He did not + return as soon as he was expected, and considerable uneasiness was felt in + camp on that account. But he came in safely. He brought good news; they + had discovered a river on the south side of the Columbia, not far from + their present encampment, where there were an abundance of elk and a + favorable place for a winter camp. Bad weather detained them until the + seventh of December, when a favorable change enabled them to proceed. They + made their way slowly and very cautiously down-stream, the tide being + against them. The narrative proceeds:— + </p> + <p> + “We at length turned a point, and found ourselves in a deep bay: here we + landed for breakfast, and were joined by the party sent out three days ago + to look for the six elk, killed by the Lewis party. They had lost their + way for a day and a half, and when they at last reached the place, found + the elk so much spoiled that they brought away nothing but the skins of + four of them. After breakfast we coasted round the bay, which is about + four miles across, and receives, besides several small creeks, two rivers, + called by the Indians, the one Kilhowanakel, the other Netul. We named it + Meriwether’s Bay, from the Christian name of Captain Lewis, who was, no + doubt, the first white man who had surveyed it. The wind was high from the + northeast, and in the middle of the day it rained for two hours, and then + cleared off. On reaching the south side of the bay we ascended the Netul + three miles, to the first point of high land on its western bank, and + formed our camp in a thick grove of lofty pines, about two hundred yards + from the water, and thirty feet above the level of the high tides.” + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0018" id="link2HCH0018"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XVIII — Camping by the Pacific + </h2> + <p> + Next in importance to the building of a winter camp was the fixing of a + place where salt could be made. Salt is absolutely necessary for the + comfort of man, and the supply brought out from the United States by the + explorers was now nearly all gone. They were provided with kettles in + which sea-water could be boiled down and salt be made. It would be needful + to go to work at once, for the process of salt-making by boiling in + ordinary kettles is slow and tedious; not only must enough for present + uses be found, but a supply to last the party home again was necessary. + Accordingly, on the eighth of December the journal has this entry to show + what was to be done:— + </p> + <p> + “In order, therefore, to find a place for making salt, and to examine the + country further, Captain Clark set out with five men, and pursuing a + course S. 60'0 W., over a dividing ridge through thick pine timber, much + of which bad fallen, passed the beads of two small brooks. In the + neighborhood of these the land was swampy and overflowed, and they waded + knee-deep till they came to an open ridgy prairie, covered with the plant + known on our frontier by the name of sacacommis (bearberry). Here is a + creek about sixty yards wide and running toward Point Adams; they passed + it on a small raft. At this place they discovered a large herd of elk, and + after pursuing them for three miles over bad swamps and small ponds, + killed one of them. The agility with which the elk crossed the swamps and + bogs seems almost incredible; as we followed their track the ground for a + whole acre would shake at our tread and sometimes we sunk to our hips + without finding any bottom. Over the surface of these bogs is a species of + moss, among which are great numbers of cranberries; and occasionally there + rise from the swamp small steep knobs of earth, thickly covered with pine + and laurel. On one of these we halted at night, but it was scarcely large + enough to suffer us to lie clear of the water, and had very little dry + wood. We succeeded, however, in collecting enough to make a fire; and + having stretched the elk-skin to keep off the rain, which still continued, + slept till morning.” + </p> + <p> + Next day the party were met by three Indians who had been fishing for + salmon, of which they had a goodly supply, and were now on their way home + to their village on the seacoast. They, invited Captain Clark and his men + to accompany them; and the white men accepted the invitation. These were + Clatsops. Their village consisted of twelve families living in houses of + split pine boards, the lower half of the house being underground. By a + small ladder in the middle of the house-front, the visitors reached the + floor, which was about four feet below the surface. Two fires were burning + in the middle of the room upon the earthen floor. The beds were ranged + around the room next to the wall, with spaces beneath them for bags, + baskets, and household articles. + </p> + <p> + Captain Clark was received with much attention, clean mats were spread for + him, and a repast of fish, roots, and berries was set before him. He + noticed that the Clatsops were well dressed and clean, and that they + frequently washed their faces and hands, a ceremony, he remarked, that is + by no means frequent among other Indians. A high wind now prevailed, and + as the evening was stormy, Captain Clark resolved to stay all night with + his hospitable Clatsops. The narrative proceeds:— + </p> + <p> + “The men of the village now collected and began to gamble. The most common + game was one in which one of the company was banker, and played against + all the rest. He had a piece of bone, about the size of a large bean, and + having agreed with any individual as to the value of the stake, would pass + the bone from one hand to the other with great dexterity, singing at the + same time to divert the attention of his adversary; then holding it in his + hands, his antagonist was challenged to guess in which of them the bone + was, and lost or won as he pointed to the right or wrong hand. To this + game of hazard they abandoned themselves with great ardor; sometimes + everything they possess is sacrificed to it; and this evening several of + the Indians lost all the beads which they had with them. This lasted for + three hours; when, Captain Clark appearing disposed to sleep, the man who + had been most attentive, and whose name was Cuskalah, spread two new mats + near the fire, ordered his wife to retire to her own bed, and the rest of + the company dispersed at the same time. Captain Clark then lay down, but + the violence with which the fleas attacked him did not leave his rest + unbroken.” + </p> + <p> + Next morning, Captain Clark walked along the seashore, and he observed + that the Indians were walking up and down, examining the shore and the + margin of a creek that emptied here. The narrative says:— + </p> + <p> + “He was at a loss to understand their object till one of them came to him, + and explained that they were in search of any fish which might have been + thrown on shore and left by the tide, adding in English, ‘sturgeon is very + good.’ There is, indeed, every reason to believe that these Clatsops + depend for their subsistence, during the winter, chiefly on the fish thus + casually thrown on the coast. After amusing himself for some time on the + beach, he returned towards the village, and shot on his way two brant. As + he came near the village, one of the Indians asked him to shoot a duck + about thirty steps distant: he did so, and, having accidentally shot off + its head, the bird was brought to the village, when all the Indians came + round in astonishment. They examined the duck, the musket, and the very + small bullets, which were a hundred to the pound, and then exclaimed, + Clouch musque, waket, commatax musquet: Good musket; do not understand + this kind of musket. They now placed before him their best roots, fish, + and syrup, after which he attempted to purchase a sea-otter skin with some + red beads which he happened to have about him; but they declined trading, + as they valued none except blue or white beads. He therefore bought + nothing but a little berry-bread and a few roots, in exchange for + fish-hooks, and then set out to return by the same route he had come. He + was accompanied by Cuskalah and his brother as far as the third creek, and + then proceeded to the camp through a heavy rain. The whole party had been + occupied during his absence in cutting down trees to make huts, and in + hunting.” + </p> + <p> + This was the occupation of all hands for several days, notwithstanding the + discomfort of the continual downpour. Many of the men were ill from the + effects of sleeping and living so constantly in water. Under date of + December 12, the journal has this entry:— + </p> + <p> + “We continued to work in the rain at our houses. In the evening there + arrived two canoes of Clatsops, among whom was a principal chief, called + Comowol. We gave him a medal and treated his companions with great + attention; after which we began to bargain for a small sea-otter skin, + some wappatoo-roots, and another species of root called shanataque. We + readily perceived that they were close dealers, stickled much for trifles, + and never closed the bargain until they thought they had the advantage. + The wappatoo is dear, as they themselves are obliged to give a high price + for it to the Indians above. Blue beads are the articles most in request; + the white occupy the next place in their estimation; but they do not value + much those of any other color. We succeeded at last in purchasing their + whole cargo for a few fish-hooks and a small sack of Indian tobacco, which + we had received from the Shoshonees.” + </p> + <p> + The winter camp was made up of seven huts, and, although it was not so + carefully fortified as was the fort in the Mandan country (during the + previous winter), it was so arranged that intruders could be kept out when + necessary. For the roofs of these shelters they were provided with + “shakes” split out from a species of pine which they called “balsam pine,” + and which gave them boards, or puncheons, or shakes, ten feet long and two + feet wide, and not more than an inch and a half thick. By the sixteenth of + December their meat-house was finished, and their meat, so much of which + had been spoiled for lack of proper care, was cut up in small pieces and + hung under cover. They had been told by the Indians that very little snow + ever fell in that region, and the weather, although very, very wet, was + mild and usually free from frost. They did have severe hailstorms and a + few flurries of snow in December but the rain was a continual cause of + discomfort. Of the trading habits of the Clatsops the journal has this to + say:— + </p> + <p> + “Three Indians came in a canoe with mats, roots, and the berries of the + sacacommis. These people proceed with a dexterity and finesse in their + bargains which, if they have not learned it from their foreign visitors, + may show how nearly allied is the cunning of savages to the little arts of + traffic. They begin by asking double or treble the value of what they have + to sell, and lower their demand in proportion to the greater or less + degree of ardor or knowledge of the purchaser, who, with all his + management, is not able to procure the article for less than its real + value, which the Indians perfectly understand. Our chief medium of trade + consists of blue and white beads, files,—with which they sharpen + their tools,—fish-hooks, and tobacco; but of all these articles blue + beads and tobacco are the most esteemed.” + </p> + <p> + But, although their surroundings were not of a sort to make one very + jolly, when Christmas came they observed the day as well as they could. + Here is what the journal says of the holiday:— + </p> + <p> + “We were awaked at daylight by a discharge of firearms, which was followed + by a song from the men, as a compliment to us on the return of Christmas, + which we have always been accustomed to observe as a day of rejoicing. + After breakfast we divided our remaining stock of tobacco, which amounted + to twelve carrots (hands), into two parts; one of which we distributed + among such of the party as make use of it, making a present of a + handkerchief to the others. The remainder of the day was passed in good + spirits, though there was nothing in our situation to excite much gayety. + The rain confined us to the house, and our only luxuries in honor of the + season were some poor elk, so much spoiled that we ate it through sheer + necessity, a few roots, and some spoiled pounded fish. + </p> + <p> + “The next day brought a continuation of rain, accompanied with thunder, + and a high wind from the southeast. We were therefore obliged to still + remain in our huts, and endeavored to dry our wet articles before the + fire. The fleas, which annoyed us near the portage of the Great Falls, + have taken such possession of our clothes that we are obliged to have a + regular search every day through our blankets as a necessary preliminary + to sleeping at night. These animals, indeed, are so numerous that they are + almost a calamity to the Indians of this country. When they have once + obtained the mastery of any house it is impossible to expel them, and the + Indians have frequently different houses, to which they resort + occasionally when the fleas have rendered their permanent residence + intolerable; yet, in spite of these precautions, every Indian is + constantly attended by multitudes of them, and no one comes into our house + without leaving behind him swarms of these tormenting insects.” + </p> + <p> + Although the condition of the exploring party was low, the men did not + require very much to put them in good spirits. The important and happy + event of finishing their fort and the noting of good weather are thus set + forth in the journal under date of December 30:— + </p> + <p> + “Toward evening the hunters brought in four elk (which Drewyer had + killed), and after a long course of abstinence and miserable diet, we had + a most sumptuous supper of elk’s tongues and marrow. Besides this + agreeable repast, the state of the weather was quite exhilarating. It had + rained during the night, but in the morning, though the high wind + continued, we enjoyed the fairest and most pleasant weather since our + arrival; the sun having shone at intervals, and there being only three + showers in the course of the day. By sunset we had completed the + fortification, and now announced to the Indians that every day at that + hour the gates would be closed, and they must leave the fort and not enter + it till sunrise. The Wahkiacums who remained with us, and who were very + forward in their deportment, complied very reluctantly with this order; + but, being excluded from our houses, formed a camp near us. . . . + </p> + <p> + “January 1, 1806. We were awaked at an early hour by the discharge of a + volley of small arms, to salute the new year. This was the only mode of + commemorating the day which our situation permitted; for, though we had + reason to be gayer than we were at Christmas, our only dainties were + boiled elk and wappatoo, enlivened by draughts of pure water. We were + visited by a few Clatsops, who came by water, bringing roots and berries + for sale. Among this nation we observed a man about twenty-five years old, + of a much lighter complexion than the Indians generally: his face was even + freckled, and his hair long, and of a colour inclining to red. He was in + habits and manners perfectly Indian; but, though he did not speak a word + of English, he seemed to understand more than the others of his party; + and, as we could obtain no account of his origin, we concluded that one of + his parents, at least, must have been white.” + </p> + <p> + A novel addition to their bill of fare was fresh blubber, or fat, from a + stranded whale. Under date of January 3 the journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “At eleven o’clock we were visited by our neighbor, the Tia or chief, + Comowool, who is also called Coone, and six Clatsops. Besides roots and + berries, they brought for sale three dogs, and some fresh blubber. Having + been so long accustomed to live on the flesh of dogs, the greater part of + us have acquired a fondness for it, and our original aversion for it is + overcome, by reflecting that while we subsisted on that food we were + fatter, stronger, and in general enjoyed better health than at any period + since leaving the buffalo country, eastward of the mountains. The blubber, + which is esteemed by the Indians an excellent food, has been obtained, + they tell us, from their neighbors, the Killamucks, a nation who live on + the seacoast to the southeast, near one of whose villages a whale had + recently been thrown and foundered.” + </p> + <p> + Five men had been sent out to form a camp on the seashore and go into the + manufacture of salt as expeditiously as possible. On the fifth of January, + two of them came into the fort bringing a gallon of salt, which was + decided to be “white, fine and very good,” and a very agreeable addition + to their food, which had been eaten perfectly fresh for some weeks past. + Captain Clark, however, said it was a “mere matter of indifference” to him + whether he had salt or not, but he hankered for bread. Captain Lewis, on + the other hand, said the lack of salt was a great inconvenience; “the want + of bread I consider trivial,” was his dictum. It was estimated that the + salt-makers could turn out three or four quarts a day, and there was good + prospect of an abundant supply for present needs and for the homeward + journey. An expedition to the seashore was now planned, and the journal + goes on to tell how they set out:— + </p> + <p> + “The appearance of the whale seemed to be a matter of importance to all + the neighboring Indians, and as we might be able to procure some of it for + ourselves, or at least purchase blubber from the Indians, a small parcel + of merchandise was prepared, and a party of the men held in readiness to + set out in the morning. As soon as this resolution was known, Chaboneau + and his wife requested that they might be permitted to accompany us. The + poor woman stated very earnestly that she had travelled a great way with + us to see the great water, yet she had never been down to the coast, and + now that this monstrous fish was also to be seen, it seemed hard that she + should be permitted to see neither the ocean nor the whale. So reasonable + a request could not be denied; they were therefore suffered to accompany + Captain Clark, who, January 6th, after an early breakfast, set out with + twelve men in two canoes.” + </p> + <p> + After a long and tedious trip, the camp of the saltmakers was reached, and + Captain Clark and his men went on to the remains of the whale, only the + skeleton being left by the rapacious and hungry Indians. The whale had + been stranded between two shore villages tenanted by the Killamucks, as + Captain Clark called them. They are now known as the Tillamook Indians, + and their name is preserved in Tillamook County, Oregon. The white men + found it difficult to secure much of the blubber, or the oil. Although the + Indians had large quantities of both, they sold it with much reluctance. + In Clark’s private diary is found this entry: “Small as this stock (of oil + and lubber) is I prize it highly; and thank Providence for directing the + whale to us; and think him more kind to us than he was to Jonah, having + sent this monster to be swallowed by us instead of swallowing us as + Jonah’s did.” While here, the party had a startling experience, as the + journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “Whilst smoking with the Indians, Captain Clark was surprised, about ten + o’clock, by a loud, shrill outcry from the opposite village, on hearing + which all the Indians immediately started up to cross the creek, and the + guide informed him that someone had been killed. On examination one of the + men (M’Neal) was discovered to be absent, and a guard (Sergeant Pryor and + four men) despatched, who met him crossing the creek in great haste. An + Indian belonging to another band, who happened to be with the Killamucks + that evening, had treated him with much kindness, and walked arm in arm + with him to a tent where our man found a Chinnook squaw, who was an old + acquaintance. From the conversation and manner of the stranger, this woman + discovered that his object was to murder the white man for the sake of the + few articles on his person; when he rose and pressed our man to go to + another tent where they would find something better to eat, she held + M’Neal by the blanket; not knowing her object, he freed himself from her, + and was going on with his pretended friend, when she ran out and gave the + shriek which brought the men of the village over, and the stranger ran off + before M’Neal knew what had occasioned the alarm.” + </p> + <p> + The “mighty hunter” of the Lewis and Clark expedition was Drewyer, whose + name has frequently been mentioned in these pages. Under date of January + 12, the journal has this just tribute to the man:— + </p> + <p> + “Our meat is now becoming scarce; we therefore determined to jerk it, and + issue it in small quantities, instead of dividing it among the four + messes, and leaving to each the care of its own provisions; a plan by + which much is lost, in consequence of the improvidence of the men. Two + hunters had been despatched in the morning, and one of them, Drewyer, had + before evening killed seven elk. We should scarcely be able to subsist, + were it not for the exertions of this most excellent hunter. The game is + scarce, and nothing is now to be seen except elk, which for almost all the + men are very difficult to be procured; but Drewyer, who is the offspring + of a Canadian Frenchman and an Indian woman, has passed his life in the + woods, and unites, in a wonderful degree, the dexterous aim of the + frontier huntsman with the intuitive sagacity of the Indian, in pursuing + the faintest tracks through the forest. All our men, however, have indeed + become so expert with the rifle that we are never under apprehensions as + to food; since, whenever there is game of any kind, we are almost certain + of procuring it.” + </p> + <p> + The narrative of the explorers gives this account of the Chinooks:— + </p> + <p> + “The men are low in stature, rather ugly, and ill made; their legs being + small and crooked, their feet large, and their heads, like those of the + women, flattened in a most disgusting manner. These deformities are in + part concealed by robes made of sea-otter, deer, elk, beaver or fox skins. + They also employ in their dress robes of the skin of a cat peculiar to + this country, and of another animal of the same size, which is light and + durable, and sold at a high price by the Indians who bring it from above. + In addition to these are worn blankets, wrappers of red, blue, or spotted + cloth, and some old sailors’ clothes, which are very highly prized. The + greater part of the men have guns, with powder and ball. + </p> + <p> + “The women have in general handsome faces, but are low and + disproportioned, with small feet and large legs, occasioned, probably, by + strands of beads, or various strings, drawn so tight above the ankles as + to prevent the circulation of the blood. Their dress, like that of the + Wahkiacums, consists of a short robe and a tissue of cedar bark. Their + hair hangs loosely down the shoulders and back; and their ears, neck, and + wrists are ornamented with blue beads. Another decoration, which is very + highly prized, consists of figures made by puncturing the arms or legs; + and on the arms of one of the squaws we observed the name of J. Bowman, + executed in the same way. In language, habits, and in almost every other + particular, they resemble the Clatsops, Cathlamahs, and, indeed, all the + people near the mouth of the Columbia, though they appeared to be inferior + to their neighbors in honesty as well as spirit. No ill treatment or + indignity on our part seemed to excite any feeling except fear; nor, + although better provided than their neighbors with arms, have they + enterprise enough either to use them advantageously against the animals of + the forest, or offensively against the tribes near them, who owe their + safety more to the timidity than the forbearance of the Chinooks. We had + heard instances of pilfering while we were among them, and therefore gave + a general order excluding them from our encampment, so that whenever an + Indian wished to visit us, he began by calling out ‘No Chinook.’ It is not + improbable that this first impression may have left a prejudice against + them, since, when we were among the Clatsops and other tribes at the mouth + of the Columbia, they had less opportunity of stealing, if they were so + disposed.” + </p> + <p> + The weeks remaining before the party set out on their return were passed + without notable incident. The journal is chiefly occupied with comments on + the weather, which was variable, and some account of the manners and + customs of the Indian tribes along the Columbia River. At that time, so + few traders had penetrated the wilds of the Lower Columbia that the + Indians were not supplied with firearms to any great extent. Their main + reliance was the bow and arrow. A few shotguns were seen among them, but + no rifles, and great was the admiration and wonder with which the Indians + saw the white men slay birds and animals at a long distance. Pitfalls for + elk were constructed by the side of fallen trees over which the animals + might leap. Concerning the manufactures of the Clatsops, they reported as + follows:— + </p> + <p> + “Their hats are made of cedar-bark and bear-grass, interwoven together in + the form of a European hat, with a small brim of about two inches, and a + high crown widening upward. They are light, ornamented with various colors + and figures, and being nearly water-proof, are much more durable than + either chip or straw hats. These hats form a small article of traffic with + the whites, and their manufacture is one of the best exertions of Indian + industry. They are, however, very dexterous in making a variety of + domestic utensils, among which are bowls, spoons, scewers (skewers), + spits, and baskets. The bowl or trough is of different shapes—round, + semicircular, in the form of a canoe, or cubic, and generally dug out of a + single piece of wood; the larger vessels have holes in the sides by way of + handles, and all are executed with great neatness. In these vessels they + boil their food, by throwing hot stones into the water, and extract oil + from different animals in the same way. Spoons are not very abundant, nor + is there anything remarkable in their shape, except that they are large + and the bowl broad. Meat is roasted on one end of a sharp skewer, placed + erect before the fire, with the other end fixed in the ground. + </p> + <p> + “But the most curious workmanship is that of the basket. It is formed of + cedar-bark and bear-grass, so closely interwoven that it is water-tight, + without the aid of either gum or resin. The form is generally conic, or + rather the segment (frustum) of a cone, of which the smaller end is the + bottom of the basket; and being made of all sizes, from that of the + smallest cup to the capacity of five or six gallons, they answer the + double purpose of a covering for the head or to contain water. Some of + them are highly ornamented with strands of bear-grass, woven into figures + of various colors, which require great labor; yet they are made very + expeditiously and sold for a trifle. It is for the construction of these + baskets that the bear-grass forms an article of considerable traffic. It + grows only near the snowy region of the high mountains; the blade, which + is two feet long and about three-eighths of an inch wide, is smooth, + strong, and pliant; the young blades particularly, from their not being + exposed to the sun and air, have an appearance of great neatness, and are + generally preferred. Other bags and baskets, not waterproof, are made of + cedar-bark, silk-grass, rushes, flags, and common coarse sedge, for the + use of families. In these manufactures, as in the ordinary work of the + house, the instrument most in use is a knife, or rather a dagger. The + handle of it is small, and has a strong loop of twine for the thumb, to + prevent its being wrested from the band. On each side is a blade, + double-edged and pointed; the longer from nine to ten inches, the shorter + from four to five. This knife is carried habitually in the hand, sometimes + exposed, but mostly, when in company with strangers, is put under the + robe.” + </p> + <p> + Naturally, all of the Columbia River Indians were found to be expert in + the building and handling of canoes. Here their greatest skill was + employed. And, it may be added, the Indians of the North Pacific coast + to-day are equally adept and skilful. The canoes of the present race of + red men do not essentially differ from those of the tribes described by + Lewis and Clark, and who are now extinct. The Indians then living above + tide-water built canoes of smaller size than those employed by the nations + farther down the river. The canoes of the Tillamooks and other tribes + living on the seacoast were upwards of fifty feet long, and would carry + eight or ten thousand pounds’ weight, or twenty-five or thirty persons. + These were constructed from the trunk of a single tree, usually white + cedar. The bow and stern rose much higher than the gunwale, and were + adorned by grotesque figures excellently well carved and fitted to + pedestals cut in the solid wood of the canoe. The same method of adornment + may be seen among the aborigines of Alaska and other regions of the North + Pacific, to-day. The figures are made of small pieces of wood neatly + fitted together by inlaying and mortising, without any spike of any kind. + When one reflects that the Indians seen by Lewis and Clark constructed + their large canoes with very poor tools, it is impossible to withhold + one’s admiration of their industry and patience. The journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “Our admiration of their skill in these curious constructions was + increased by observing the very inadequate implements which they use. + These Indians possess very few axes, and the only tool they employ, from + felling the tree to the delicate workmanship of the images, is a chisel + made of an old file, about an inch or an inch and a half in width. Even of + this, too, they have not learned the proper management; for the chisel is + sometimes fixed in a large block of wood, and, being held in the right + hand, the block is pushed with the left, without the aid of a mallet. But + under all these disadvantages, their canoes, which one would suppose to be + the work of years, are made in a few weeks. A canoe, however, is very + highly prized, being in traffic an article of the greatest value except a + wife, and of equal value with her; so that a lover generally gives a canoe + to the father in exchange for his daughter. . . . + </p> + <p> + “The harmony of their private life is secured by their ignorance of + spirituous liquors, the earliest and most dreadful present which + civilization has given to the other natives of the continent. Although + they have had so much intercourse with whites, they do not appear to + possess any knowledge of those dangerous luxuries; at least they have + never inquired after them, which they probably would have done if once + liquors bad been introduced among them. Indeed, we have not observed any + liquor of intoxicating quality among these or any Indians west of the + Rocky Mountains, the universal beverage being pure water. They, however, + sometimes almost intoxicate themselves by smoking tobacco, of which they + are excessively fond, and the pleasures of which they prolong as much as + possible, by retaining vast quantities at a time, till after circulating + through the lungs and stomach it issues in volumes from the mouth and + nostrils.” + </p> + <p> + A long period of quiet prevailed in camp after the first of February, + before the final preparations for departure were made. Parties were sent + out every day to hunt, and the campers were able to command a few days’ + supply of provision in advance. The flesh of the deer was now very lean + and poor, but that of the elk was growing better and better. It was + estimated by one of the party that they killed, between December 1, 1805, + and March 20, 1806, elk to the number of one hundred and thirty-one, and + twenty deer. Some of this meat they smoked for its better preservation, + but most of it was eaten fresh. No record was kept of the amount of fish + consumed by the party; but they were obliged at times to make fish their + sole article of diet. Late in February they were visited by Comowool, the + principal Clatsop chief, who brought them a sturgeon and quantities of a + small fish which had just begun to make its appearance in the Columbia. + This was known as the anchovy, but oftener as the candle-fish; it is so + fat that it may be burned like a torch, or candle. The journal speaks of + Comowool as “by far the most friendly and decent savage we have seen in + this neighborhood.” + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0019" id="link2HCH0019"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XIX — With Faces turned Homeward + </h2> + <p> + The officers of the expedition had decided to begin their homeward march + on the first of April; but a natural impatience induced them to start a + little earlier, and, as a matter of record, it may be said that they + evacuated Fort Clatsop on the 23d of March, 1806. An examination of their + stock of ammunition showed that they had on hand a supply of powder amply + sufficient for their needs when travelling the three thousand miles of + wilderness in which their sole reliance for food must be the game to be + killed. The powder was kept in leaden canisters, and these, when empty, + were used for making balls for muskets and rifles. Three bushels of salt + were collected for their use on the homeward journey. + </p> + <p> + What they needed now most of all was an assortment of small wares and + trinkets with which to trade with the Indians among whom they must spend + so many months before reaching civilization again. They had ample letters + of credit from the Government at Washington, and if they had met with + white traders on the seacoast, they could have bought anything that money + would buy. They had spent nearly all their stock in coming across the + continent. This is Captain Lewis’s summary of the goods on hand just + before leaving Fort Clatsop:— + </p> + <p> + “All the small merchandise we possess might be tied up in a couple of + handkerchiefs. The rest of our stock in trade consists of six blue robes, + one scarlet ditto, five robes which we made out of our large United States + flag, a few old clothes trimmed with ribbons, and one artillerist’s + uniform coat and hat, which probably Captain Clark will never wear again. + We have to depend entirely upon this meagre outfit for the purchase of + such horses and provisions as it will be in our power to obtain—a + scant dependence, indeed, for such a journey as is before us.” + </p> + <p> + One of their last acts was to draw up a full list of the members of the + party, and, making several copies of it, to leave these among the friendly + Indians with instructions to give a paper to the first white men who + should arrive in the country. On the back of the paper was traced the + track by which the explorers had come and that by which they expected to + return. This is a copy of one of these important documents:— + </p> + <p> + “The object of this list is, that through the medium of some civilized + person who may see the same, it may be made known to the informed world, + that the party consisting of the persons whose names are hereunto annexed, + and who were sent out by the government of the U’States in May, 1804, to + explore the interior of the Continent of North America, did penetrate the + same by way of the Missouri and Columbia Rivers, to the discharge of the + latter into the Pacific Ocean, where they arrived on the 14th of November, + 1805, and from whence they departed the 23d day of March, 1806, on their + return to the United States by the same rout they had come out.” + </p> + <p> + Curiously enough, one of these papers did finally reach the United States. + During the summer of 1806, the brig “Lydia,” Captain Hill, entered the + Columbia for the purpose of trading with the natives. From one of these + Captain Hill secured the paper, which he took to Canton, China, in + January, 1807. Thence it was sent to a gentleman in Philadelphia, having + travelled nearly all the way round the world. + </p> + <p> + Fort Clatsop, as they called the rude collection of huts in which they had + burrowed all winter, with its rude furniture and shelters, was formally + given to Comowool, the Clatsop chief who had been so kind to the party. + Doubtless the crafty savage had had his eye on this establishment, knowing + that it was to be abandoned in the spring. + </p> + <p> + The voyagers left Fort Clatsop about one o’clock in the day, and, after + making sixteen miles up the river, camped for the night. Next day, they + reached an Indian village where they purchased “some wappatoo and a dog + for the invalids.” They still had several men on the sick list in + consequence of the hard fare of the winter. The weather was cold and wet, + and wood for fuel was difficult to obtain. In a few days they found + themselves among their old friends, the Skilloots, who had lately been at + war with the Chinooks. There was no direct intercourse between the two + nations as yet, but the Chinooks traded with the Clatsops and Wahkiacums, + and these in turn traded with the Skilloots, and in this way the two + hostile tribes exchanged the articles which they had for those which they + desired. The journal has this to say about the game of an island on which + the explorers tarried for a day or two, in order to dry their goods and + mend their canoes:— + </p> + <p> + “This island, which has received from the Indians the appropriate name of + Elalah (Elallah), or Deer Island, is surrounded on the water-side by an + abundant growth of cottonwood, ash, and willow, while the interior + consists chiefly of prairies interspersed with ponds. These afford refuge + to great numbers of geese, ducks, large swan, sandhill cranes, a few + canvas-backed ducks, and particularly the duckinmallard, the most abundant + of all. There are also great numbers of snakes resembling our + garter-snakes in appearance, and like them not poisonous. Our hunters + brought in three deer, a goose, some ducks, an eagle, and a tiger-cat. + Such is the extreme voracity of the vultures, that they had devoured in + the space of a few hours four of the deer killed this morning; and one of + our men declared that they had besides dragged a large buck about thirty + yards, skinned it, and broken the backbone.” + </p> + <p> + The vulture here referred to is better known as the California condor, a + great bird of prey which is now so nearly extinct that few specimens are + ever seen, and the eggs command a great price from those who make + collections of such objects. A condor killed by one of the hunters of the + Lewis and Clark expedition measured nine feet and six inches from tip to + tip of its wings, three feet and ten inches from the point of the bill to + the end of the tail, and six inches and a half from the back of the head + to the tip of the beak. Very few of the condors of the Andes are much + larger than this, though one measuring eleven feet from tip to tip has + been reported. + </p> + <p> + While camped at Quicksand, or Sandy River, the party learned that food + supplies up the Columbia were scarce. The journal says that the Indians + met here were descending the river in search of food. It adds:— + </p> + <p> + “They told us, that they lived at the Great Rapids; but that the scarcity + of provisions there had induced them to come down, in the hopes of finding + subsistence in the more fertile valley. All the people living at the + Rapids, as well as the nations above them, were in much distress for want + of food, having consumed their winter store of dried fish, and not + expecting the return of the salmon before the next full moon, which would + be on the second of May: this information was not a little embarrassing. + From the Falls to the Chopunnish nation, the plains afforded neither deer, + elk, nor antelope for our subsistence. The horses were very poor at this + season, and the dogs must be in the same condition, if their food, the + dried fish, had failed. Still, it was obviously inexpedient for us to wait + for the return of the salmon, since in that case we might not reach the + Missouri before the ice would prevent our navigating it. We might, + besides, hazard the loss of our horses, as the Chopunnish, with whom we + had left them, would cross the mountains as early as possible, or about + the beginning of May, and take our horses with them, or suffer them to + disperse, in either of which cases the passage of the mountains will be + almost impracticable. We therefore, after much deliberation, decided to + remain where we were till we could collect meat enough to last us till we + should reach the Chopunnish nation, and to obtain canoes from the natives + as we ascended, either in exchange for our pirogues, or by purchasing them + with skins and merchandise. These canoes, again, we might exchange for + horses with the natives of the plains, till we should obtain enough to + travel altogether by land. On reaching the southeast branch of the + Columbia, four or five men could be sent on to the Chopunnish to have our + horses in readiness; and thus we should have a stock of horses sufficient + both to transport our baggage and supply us with food, as we now perceived + that they would form our only certain dependance for subsistence.” + </p> + <p> + On the third of April this entry is made:— + </p> + <p> + “A considerable number of Indians crowded about us to-day, many of whom + came from the upper part of the river. These poor wretches confirm the + reports of scarcity among the nations above; which, indeed, their + appearance sufficiently proved, for they seemed almost starved, and + greedily picked the bones and refuse meat thrown away by us. + </p> + <p> + “In the evening Captain Clark returned from an excursion. On setting out + yesterday at half-past eleven o’clock, he directed his course along the + south side of the (Columbia) river, where, at the distance of eight miles, + he passed a village of the Nechacohee tribe, belonging to the Eloot + nation. The village itself is small, and being situated behind Diamond + Island, was concealed from our view as we passed both times along the + northern shore. He continued till three o’clock, when he landed at the + single house already mentioned as the only remains of a village of + twenty-four straw huts. Along the shore were great numbers of small canoes + for gathering wappatoo, which were left by the Shahalas, who visit the + place annually. The present inhabitants of the house are part of the + Neerchokioo tribe of the same (Shahala) nation. On entering one of the + apartments of the house, Captain Clark offered several articles to the + Indians in exchange for wappatoo; but they appeared sullen and + ill-humored, and refused to give him any. He therefore sat down by the + fire opposite the men, and taking a port-fire match from his pocket, threw + a small piece of it into the flame; at the same time he took his + pocket-compass, and by means of a magnet, which happened to be in his + inkhorn, made the needle turn round very briskly. The match now took fire + and burned violently, on which the Indians, terrified at this strange + exhibition, immediately brought a quantity of wappatoo and laid it at his + feet, begging him to put out the bad fire, while an old woman continued to + speak with great vehemence, as if praying and imploring protection. Having + received the roots, Captain Clark put up the compass, and as the match + went out of itself tranquillity was restored, though the women and + children still took refuge in their beds and behind the men. He now paid + them for what he had used, and after lighting his pipe and smoking with + them, continued down the river.” + </p> + <p> + The excursion from which Captain Clark had returned, as noted in this + extract, was up the Multnomah River. As we have already seen, the + explorers missed that stream when they came down the Columbia; and they + had now passed it again unnoticed, owing to the number of straggling + islands that hide its junction with the Columbia. Convinced that a + considerable river must drain the region to the south, Captain Clark went + back alone and penetrating the intricate channels among the islands, found + the mouth of the Multnomah, now better known as the Willamette. He was + surprised to find that the depth of water in the river was so great that + large vessels might enter it. He would have been much more surprised if he + had been told that a large city, the largest in Oregon, would some day be + built on the site of the Indian huts which he saw. Here Captain Clark + found a house occupied by several families of the Neechecolee nation. + Their mansion was two hundred and twenty-six feet long and was divided + into apartments thirty feet square. + </p> + <p> + The most important point in this region of the Columbia was named Wappatoo + Island by the explorers. This is a large extent of country lying between + the Willamette and an arm of the Columbia which they called Wappatoo + Inlet, but which is now known as Willamette Slough. It is twenty miles + long and from five to ten miles wide. Here is an interesting description + of the manner of gathering the roots of the wappatoo, of which we have + heard so much in this region of country:— + </p> + <p> + “The chief wealth of this island consists of the numerous ponds in the + interior, abounding with the common arrowhead (sagittaria sagittifolia) to + the root of which is attached a bulb growing beneath it in the mud. This + bulb, to which the Indians give the name of wappatoo,(1) is the great + article of food, and almost the staple article of commerce on the + Columbia. It is never out of season; so that at all times of the year the + valley is frequented by the neighboring Indians who come to gather it. It + is collected chiefly by the women, who employ for the purpose canoes from + ten to fourteen feet in length, about two feet wide and nine inches deep, + and tapering from the middle, where they are about twenty inches wide. + They are sufficient to contain a single person and several bushels of + roots, yet so very light that a woman can carry them with ease. She takes + one of these canoes into a pond where the water is as high as the breast, + and by means of her toes separates from the root this bulb, which on being + freed from the mud rises immediately to the surface of the water, and is + thrown into the canoe. In this manner these patient females remain in the + water for several hours, even in the depth of winter. This plant is found + through the whole extent of the valley in which we now are, but does not + grow on the Columbia farther eastward.” + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + (1) In the Chinook jargon “Wappatoo” stands for potato. +</pre> + <p> + The natives of this inland region, the explorers found, were larger and + better-shaped than those of the sea-coast, but they were nearly all + afflicted with sore eyes. The loss of one eye was common, and not + infrequently total blindness was observed in men of mature years, while + blindness was almost universal among the old people. The white men made + good use of the eye-water which was among their supplies; it was + gratefully received by the natives and won them friends among the people + they met. On the fifth of April the journal has this entry:— + </p> + <p> + “In the course of his chase yesterday, one of our men (Collins), who had + killed a bear, found the den of another with three cubs in it. He returned + to-day in hopes of finding her, but brought only the cubs, without being + able to see the dam; and on this occasion Drewyer, our most experienced + huntsman, assured us that he had never known a single instance where a + female bear, which had once been disturbed by a hunter and obliged to + leave her young, returned to them again. The young bears were sold for + wappatoo to some of the many Indians who visited us in parties during the + day and behaved very well.” + </p> + <p> + And on the ninth is this entry:— + </p> + <p> + “The wind having moderated, we reloaded the canoes and set out by seven + o’clock. We stopped to take up the two hunters who left us yesterday, but + were unsuccessful in the chase, and then proceeded to the Wahclellah + village, situated on the north side of the river, about a mile below + Beacon Rock. During the whole of the route from camp we passed along under + high, steep, and rocky sides of the mountains, which now close on each + side of the river, forming stupendous precipices, covered with fir and + white cedar. Down these heights frequently descend the most beautiful + cascades, one of which, a large creek, throws itself over a perpendicular + rock three hundred feet above the water, while other smaller streams + precipitate themselves from a still greater elevation, and evaporating in + a mist, collect again and form a second cascade before they reach the + bottom of the rocks. We stopped to breakfast at this village. We here + found the tomahawk which had been stolen from us on the fourth of last + November. They assured us they had bought it of the Indians below; but as + the latter had already informed us that the Wahclellahs had such an + article, which they had stolen, we made no difficulty about retaking our + property.” + </p> + <p> + The Columbia along the region through which the expedition was now passing + is a very wild and picturesque stream. The banks are high and rocky, and + some of the precipices to which the journal refers are of a vast + perpendicular height. On the Oregon side of the river are five cascades + such as those which the journal mentions. The most famous and beautiful of + these is known as Multnomah Falls. This cataract has a total fall of more + than six hundred feet, divided into two sections. The other cascades are + the Bridal Veil, the Horsetail, the Latourelle, and the Oneonta, and all + are within a few miles of each other. + </p> + <p> + On the ninth of April the voyagers reached the point at which they were to + leave tidewater, fifty-six miles above the mouth of the Multnomah, or + Willamette. They were now at the entrance of the great rapids which are + known as the Cascades of the Columbia, and which occupy a space on the + river about equal to four miles and a half. They were still navigating the + stream with their canoes, camping sometimes on the north side and + sometimes on the south side of the river. This time they camped on the + north side, and during the night lost one of their boats, which got loose + and drifted down to the next village of the Wahclellahs, some of whom + brought it back to the white men’s camp and were rewarded for their + honesty by a present of two knives. It was found necessary to make a + portage here, but a long and severe rainstorm set in, and the tents and + the skins used for protecting the baggage were soaked. The journal goes on + with the narrative thus:— + </p> + <p> + We determined to take the canoes first over the portage, in hopes that by + the afternoon the rain would cease, and we might carry our baggage across + without injury. This was immediately begun by almost the whole party, who + in the course of the day dragged four of the canoes to the head of the + rapids, with great difficulty and labor. A guard, consisting of one sick + man and three who had been lamed by accidents, remained with Captain Lewis + (and a cook) to guard the baggage. This precaution was absolutely + necessary to protect it from the Wahclellahs, whom we discovered to be + great thieves, notwithstanding their apparent honesty in restoring our + boat; indeed, so arrogant and intrusive have they become that nothing but + our numbers, we are convinced, saves us from attack. They crowded about us + while we were taking up the boats, and one of them had the insolence to + throw stones down the bank at two of our men. + </p> + <p> + “We now found it necessary to depart from our mild and pacific course of + conduct. On returning to the head of the portage, many of them met our men + and seemed very ill-disposed. Shields had stopped to purchase a dog, and + being separated from the rest of the party, two Indians pushed him out of + the road, and attempted to take the dog from him. He had no weapon but a + long knife, with which he immediately attacked them both, hoping to put + them to death before they had time to draw their arrows; but as soon as + they saw his design they fled into the woods. Soon afterward we were told + by an Indian who spoke Clatsop, which we had ourselves learned during the + winter, that the Wahclellahs had carried off Captain Lewis’ dog to their + village below. Three men well armed were instantly despatched in pursuit + of them, with orders to fire if there was the slightest resistance or + hesitation. At the distance of two miles they came within sight of the + thieves, who, finding themselves pursued, left the dog and made off. We + now ordered all the Indians out of our camp, and explained to them that + whoever stole any of our baggage, or insulted our men, should be instantly + shot; a resolution which we were determined to enforce, as it was now our + only means of safety. + </p> + <p> + “We were visited during the day by a chief of the Clahclellahs, who seemed + mortified at the behavior of the Indians, and told us that the persons at + the head of their outrages were two very bad men who belonged to the + Wahclellah tribe, but that the nation did not by any means wish to + displease us. This chief seemed very well-disposed, and we had every + reason to believe was much respected by the neighboring Indians. We + therefore gave him a small medal and showed him all the attention in our + power, with which he appeared very much gratified.” + </p> + <p> + The portage of these rapids was very difficult and tiresome. The total + distance of the first stage was twenty-eight hundred yards along a narrow + way rough with rocks and now slippery with rain. One of the canoes was + lost here by being driven out into the strong current, where the force of + the water was so great that it could not be held by the men; the frail + skiff drifted down the rapids and disappeared. They now had two canoes and + two periogues left, and the loads were divided among these craft. This + increased the difficulties of navigation, and Captain Lewis crossed over + to the south side of the river in search of canoes to be purchased from + the Indians, who lived in a village on that side of the stream. The + narrative continues: + </p> + <p> + “The village now consisted of eleven houses, crowded with inhabitants, and + about sixty fighting men. They were very well disposed, and we found no + difficulty in procuring two small canoes, in exchange for two robes and + four elk-skins. He also purchased with deer-skins three dogs,—an + animal which has now become a favorite food, for it is found to be a + strong, healthy diet, preferable to lean deer or elk, and much superior to + horseflesh in any state. With these he proceeded along the south side of + the river, and joined us in the evening.” + </p> + <p> + Above the rapids the party encountered two tribes of Indians from whom + they endeavored to buy horses, for they were now approaching a point when + they must leave the river and travel altogether by land. One of these + tribes was known as the Weocksockwillacurns, and the other was the + Chilluckittequaws. These jaw-breaking names are commended to those who + think that the Indian names of northern Maine are difficult to handle. + Trees were now growing scarcer, and the wide lowlands spread out before + the explorers stretched to the base of the Bitter Root Mountains without + trees, but covered with luxuriant grass and herbage. After being confined + so long to the thick forests and mountains of the seacoast, the party + found this prospect very exhilarating, notwithstanding the absence of + forests and thickets. The climate, too, was much more agreeable than that + to which they had lately been accustomed, being dry and pure. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0020" id="link2HCH0020"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XX — The Last Stage of the Columbia + </h2> + <p> + On the thirteenth of April the party reached the series of falls and + rapids which they called the Long Narrows. At the point reached the river + is confined, for a space of about fourteen miles, to narrow channels and + rocky falls. The Long Narrows are now known as the Dalles. The word + “dalles” is French, and signifies flagstones, such as are used for + sidewalks. Many of the rocks in these narrows are nearly flat on top, and + even the precipitous banks look like walls of rock. At the upper end of + the rapids, or dalles, is Celilo City, and at the lower end is Dalles + City, sometimes known as “The Dalles.” Both of these places are in Oregon; + the total fall of the water from Celilo to the Dalles is over eighty feet. + Navigation of these rapids is impossible. As the explorers had no further + use for their pirogues, they broke them up for fuel. The merchandise was + laboriously carried around on the river bank. They were able to buy four + horses from the Skilloots for which they paid well in goods. It was now + nearly time for the salmon to begin to run, and under date of April 19 the + journal has this entry:— + </p> + <p> + “The whole village was filled with rejoicing to-day at having caught a + single salmon, which was considered as the harbinger of vast quantities in + four or five days. In order to hasten their arrival the Indians, according + to custom, dressed the fish and cut it into small pieces, one of which was + given to each child in the village. In the good humor excited by this + occurrence they parted, though reluctantly, with four other horses, for + which we gave them two kettles, reserving only a single small one for a + mess of eight men. Unluckily, however, we lost one of the horses by the + negligence of the person to whose charge he was committed. The rest were, + therefore, hobbled and tied; but as the nations here do not understand + gelding, all the horses but one were stallions; this being the season when + they are most vicious, we had great difficulty in managing them, and were + obliged to keep watch over them all night. . . . + </p> + <p> + “As it was obviously our interest to preserve the goodwill of these + people, we passed over several small thefts which they committed, but this + morning we learnt that six tomahawks and a knife had been stolen during + the night. We addressed ourselves to the chief, who seemed angry with his + people, and made a harangue to them; but we did not recover the articles, + and soon afterward two of our spoons were missing. We therefore ordered + them all from our camp, threatening to beat severely any one detected in + purloining. This harshness irritated them so much that they left us in an + ill-humor, and we therefore kept on our guard against any insult. Besides + this knavery, the faithlessness of the people is intolerable; frequently, + after receiving goods in exchange for a horse, they return in a few hours + and insist on revoking the bargain or receiving some additional value. We + discovered, too, that the horse which was missing yesterday had been + gambled away by the fellow from whom we had purchased him, to a man of a + different nation, who had carried him off. We succeeded in buying two more + horses, two dogs, and some chappelell, and also exchanged a couple of + elk-skins for a gun belonging to the chief. . . . One of the canoes, for + which the Indians would give us very little, was cut up for fuel; two + others, together with some elk-skins and pieces of old iron, we bartered + for beads, and the remaining two small ones were despatched early next + morning, with all the baggage which could not be carried on horseback. We + had intended setting out at the same time, but one of our horses broke + loose during the night, and we were under the necessity of sending several + men in search of him. In the mean time, the Indians, who were always on + the alert, stole a tomahawk, which we could not recover, though several of + them were searched; and another fellow was detected in carrying off a + piece of iron, and kicked out of camp; upon which Captain Lewis, + addressing them, told them he was not afraid to fight them, for, if he + chose, he could easily put them all to death, and burn their village, but + that he did not wish to treat them ill if they kept from stealing; and + that, although, if he could discover who had the tomahawks, he would take + away their horses, yet he would rather lose the property altogether than + take the horse of an innocent man. The chiefs were present at this + harangue, hung their heads, and made no reply. + </p> + <p> + “At ten o’clock the men returned with the horse, and soon after an Indian, + who had promised to go with us as far as the Chopunnish, came with two + horses, one of which he politely offered to assist in carrying our + baggage. We therefore loaded nine horses, and, giving the tenth to + Bratton, who was still too sick to walk, at about ten o’clock left the + village of these disagreeable people.” + </p> + <p> + At an Indian village which they reached soon after leaving that of the + disagreeable Skilloots, they found the fellow who had gambled away the + horse that he had sold. Being faced with punishment, he agreed to replace + the animal he had stolen with another, and a very good horse was brought + to satisfy the white men, who were now determined to pursue a rigid course + with the thievish Indians among whom they found themselves. These people, + the Eneeshurs, were stingy, inhospitable, and overbearing in their ways. + Nothing but the formidable numbers of the white men saved them from + insult, pillage, and even murder. While they were here, one of the horses + belonging to the party broke loose and ran towards the Indian village. A + buffalo robe attached to him fell off and was gathered in by one of the + Eneeshurs. Captain Lewis, whose patience was now exhausted, set out, + determined to burn the village unless the Indians restored the robe. + Fortunately, however, one of his men found the missing article hidden in a + hut, and so any act of violent reprisal was not necessary. + </p> + <p> + So scarce had now become fuel, the party were obliged to buy what little + wood they required for their single cooking-fire. They could not afford a + fire to keep them warm, and, as the nights were cold and they lay without + any shelter, they were most uncomfortable, although the days were warm. + They were now travelling along the Columbia River, using their horses for + a part of their luggage, and towing the canoes with the remainder of the + stuff. On the twenty-third of April they arrived at the mouth of Rock + Creek, on the Columbia, a considerable stream which they missed as they + passed this point on their way down, October 21. Here they met a company + of Indians called the Wahhowpum, with whom they traded pewter buttons, + strips of tin and twisted wire for roots, dogs, and fuel. These people + were waiting for the arrival of the salmon. The journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “After arranging the camp we assembled all the warriors, and having smoked + with them, the violins were produced, and some of the men danced. This + civility was returned by the Indians in a style of dancing, such as we had + not yet seen. The spectators formed a circle round the dancers, who, with + their robes drawn tightly round the shoulders, and divided into parties of + five or six men, perform by crossing in a line from one side of the circle + to the other. All the parties, performers as well as spectators, sing, and + after proceeding in this way for some time, the spectators join, and the + whole concludes by a promiscuous dance and song. Having finished, the + natives retired at our request, after promising to barter horses with us + in the morning.” + </p> + <p> + They bought three horses of these Indians and hired three more from a + Chopunnish who was to accompany them. The journal adds:— + </p> + <p> + “The natives also had promised to take our canoes in exchange for horses; + but when they found that we were resolved on travelling by land they + refused giving us anything, in hopes that we would be forced to leave + them. Disgusted at this conduct, we determined rather to cut them to + pieces than suffer these people to enjoy them, and actually began to split + them, on which they gave us several strands of beads for each canoe. We + had now a sufficient number of horses to carry our baggage, and therefore + proceeded wholly by land.” + </p> + <p> + Next day the party camped near a tribe of Indians known as the + Pishquitpah. These people had never seen white men before, and they + flocked in great numbers around the strangers, but were very civil and + hospitable, although their curiosity was rather embarrassing. These people + were famous hunters, and both men and women were excellent riders. They + were now travelling on the south side of the river, in Oregon, and, after + leaving the Pishquitpahs, they encountered the “Wollawollahs,” as they + called them. These Indians are now known as the Walla Walla tribe, and + their name is given to a river, a town, and a fort of the United States. + In several of the Indian dialects walla means “running water,” and when + the word is repeated, it diminishes the size of the object; so that Walla + Walla means “little running water.” Near here the explorers passed the + mouth of a river which they called the Youmalolam; it is a curious example + of the difficulty of rendering Indian names into English. The stream is + now known as the Umatilla. Here they found some old acquaintances of whom + the journal has this account:— + </p> + <p> + “Soon after we were joined by seven Wollawollahs, among whom we recognized + a chief by the name of Yellept, who had visited us on the nineteenth of + October, when we gave him a medal with the promise of a larger one on our + return. He appeared very much pleased at seeing us again, and invited us + to remain at his village three or four days, during which he would supply + us with the only food they had, and furnish us with horses for our + journey. After the cold, inhospitable treatment we have lately received, + this kind offer was peculiarly acceptable; and after a hasty meal we + accompanied him to his village, six miles above, situated on the edge of + the low country, about twelve miles below the mouth of Lewis’ River. + </p> + <p> + “Immediately on our arrival Yellept, who proved to be a man of much + influence, not only in his own but in the neighboring nations, collected + the inhabitants, and having made a harangue, the purport of which was to + induce the nations to treat us hospitably, he set them an example by + bringing himself an armful of wood, and a platter containing three roasted + mullets. They immediately assented to one part, at least, of the + recommendation, by furnishing us with an abundance of the only sort of + fuel they employ, the stems of shrubs growing in the plains. We then + purchased four dogs, on which we supped heartily, having been on short + allowance for two days past. When we were disposed to sleep, the Indians + retired immediately on our request, and indeed, uniformly conducted + themselves with great propriety. These people live on roots, which are + very abundant in the plains, and catch a few salmon-trout; but at present + they seem to subsist chiefly on a species of mullet, weighing from one to + three pounds. They informed us that opposite the village there was a route + which led to the mouth of the Kooskooskee, on the south side of Lewis’ + River; that the road itself was good, and passed over a level country well + supplied with water and grass; and that we should meet with plenty of deer + and antelope. We knew that a road in that direction would shorten the + distance at least eighty miles; and as the report of our guide was + confirmed by Yellept and other Indians, we did not hesitate to adopt this + route: they added, however, that there were no houses, nor permanent + Indian residences on the road and that it would therefore be prudent not + to trust wholly to our guns, but to lay in a stock of provisions. + </p> + <p> + “Taking their advice, therefore, we next day purchased ten dogs. While the + trade for these was being conducted by our men, Yellept brought a fine + white horse, and presented him to Captain Clark, expressing at the same + time a wish to have a kettle; but, on being informed that we had already + disposed of the last kettle we could spare, he said he would be content + with any present we chose to make him in return. Captain Clark thereupon + gave him his sword, for which the chief had before expressed a desire, + adding one hundred balls, some powder, and other small articles, with + which he appeared perfectly satisfied. We were now anxious to depart, and + requested Yellept to lend us canoes for the purpose of crossing the river; + but he would not listen to any proposal of the kind. He wished us to + remain for two or three days; but, at all events, would not consent to our + going to-day, for he had already sent to invite his neighbors, the + Chimnapoos, to come down this evening and join his people in a dance for + our amusement. We urged in vain that, by setting out sooner, we would the + earlier return with the articles they desired; for a day, he observed, + would make but little difference. We at length mentioned that, as there + was no wind it was now the best time to cross the river, and we would + merely take the horses over and return to sleep at their village. To this + he assented; we then crossed with our horses, and having hobbled them, + returned to their camp. + </p> + <p> + “Fortunately, there was among these Wollwaollahs a prisoner belonging to a + tribe of Shoshonee or Snake Indians, residing to the south of the + Multnomah and visiting occasionally the heads of Wollawollah Creek. Our + Shoshonee woman, Sacajawea, though she belonged to a tribe near the + Missouri, spoke the same language as this prisoner; by their means we were + able to explain ourselves to the Indians, and answer all their inquiries + with respect to ourselves and the object of our journey. Our conversation + inspired them with much confidence, and they soon brought several sick + persons, for whom they requested our assistance. We splintered (splinted) + the broken arm of one, gave some relief to another, whose knee was + contracted by rheumatism, and administered what we thought beneficial for + ulcers and eruptions of the skin on various parts of the body which are + very common disorders among them. But our most valuable medicine was + eye-water, which we distributed, and which, indeed, they required very + much. + </p> + <p> + “A little before sunset the Chimnapoos, amounting to one hundred men and a + few women, came to the village, and, joining the Wollawollahs, who were + about the same number of men, formed themselves in a circle round our + camp, and waited very patiently till our men were disposed to dance, which + they did for about an hour, to the music of the violin. They then + requested the Indians to dance. With this they readily complied; and the + whole assemblage, amounting, with the women and children of the village, + to several hundred, stood up, and sang and danced at the same time. The + exercise was not, indeed, very violent nor very graceful; for the greater + part of them were formed into a solid column, round a kind of hollow + square, stood on the same place, and merely jumped up at intervals, to + keep time to the music. Some, however, of the more active warriors entered + the square and danced round it sideways, and some of our men joined in + with them, to the great satisfaction of the Indians. The dance continued + till ten o’clock.” + </p> + <p> + By the thirtieth of April the expedition was equipped with twenty-three + horses, most of which were young and excellent animals; but many of them + were afflicted with sore backs. All Indians are cruel masters and hard + riders, and their saddles are so rudely made that it is almost impossible + for an Indian’s horse to be free from scars; yet they continue to ride + after the animal’s back is scarified in the most horrible manner. + </p> + <p> + The expedition was now in what we know as Walla Walla County, Washington, + and they were travelling along the river Walla Walla, leaving the + Columbia, which has here a general direction of northerly. The course of + the party was northeast, their objective point being that where Waitesburg + is now built, near the junction of Coppie Creek and the Touchet River. + They were in a region of wood in plenty, and for the first time since + leaving the Long Narrows, or Dalles, they had as much fuel as they needed. + On the Touchet, accordingly, they camped for the sake of having a + comfortable night; the nights were cold, and a good fire by which to sleep + was an attraction not easily resisted. The journal, April 30, has this + entry:— + </p> + <p> + “We were soon supplied by Drewyer with a beaver and an otter, of which we + took only a part of the beaver, and gave the rest to the Indians. The + otter is a favorite food, though much inferior, at least in our + estimation, to the dog, which they will not eat. The horse is seldom + eaten, and never except when absolute necessity compels them, as the only + alternative to dying of hunger. This fastidiousness does not, however, + seem to proceed so much from any dislike to the food, as from attachment + to the animal itself; for many of them eat very heartily of the horse-beef + which we give them.” + </p> + <p> + On the first day of May, having travelled forty miles from their camp near + the mouth of the Walla Walla, they camped between two points at which are + now situated the two towns of Prescott, on the south, and Waitesburg, on + the north. Their journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “We had scarcely encamped when three young men came up from the + Wollawollah village, with a steel-trap which had inadvertently been left + behind, and which they had come a whole day’s journey in order to restore. + This act of integrity was the more pleasing, because, though very rare + among Indians, it corresponded perfectly with the general behavior of the + Wollawollahs, among whom we had lost carelessly several knives, which were + always returned as soon as found. We may, indeed, justly affirm, that of + all the Indians whom we had met since leaving the United States, the + Wollawollahs were the most hospitable, honest, and sincere.” + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0021" id="link2HCH0021"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XXI — Overland east of the Columbia + </h2> + <p> + It was now early in May, and the expedition, travelling eastward along + Touchet Creek, were in the country of their friends, the Chopunnish. On + the third, they were agreeably surprised to meet Weahkootnut, whom they + had named Bighorn from the fact that he wore a horn of that animal + suspended from his left arm. This man was the first chief of a large band + of Chopunnish, and when the expedition passed that way, on their path to + the Pacific, the last autumn, he was very obliging and useful to them, + guiding them down the Snake, or Lewis River. He had now heard that the + white men were on their return, and he had come over across the hills to + meet them. As we may suppose, the meeting was very cordial, and + Weahkootnut turned back with his white friends and accompanied them to the + mouth of the Kooskooskee, a stream of which our readers have heard before; + it is now known as the Clearwater. + </p> + <p> + Captain Lewis told Weahkootnut that his people were hungry, their slender + stock of provisions being about exhausted. The chief told them that they + would soon come to a Chopunnish house where they could get food. But the + journal has this entry:— + </p> + <p> + “We found the house which Weahkootnut had mentioned, where we halted for + breakfast. It contained six families, so miserably poor that all we could + obtain from them were two lean dogs and a few large cakes of half-cured + bread, made of a root resembling the sweet potato, of all which we + contrived to form a kind of soup. The soil of the plain is good, but it + has no timber. The range of southwest mountains is about fifteen miles + above us, but continues to lower, and is still covered with snow to its + base. After giving passage to Lewis’ (Snake) River, near their + northeastern extremity, they terminate in a high level plain between that + river and the Kooskooskee. The salmon not having yet called them to the + rivers, the greater part of the Chopunnish are now dispersed in villages + through this plain, for the purpose of collecting quamash and cows, which + here grow in great abundance, the soil being extremely fertile, in many + places covered with long-leaved pine, larch, and balsam-fir, which + contribute to render it less thirsty than the open, unsheltered plains.” + </p> + <p> + By the word “cows,” in this sentence, we must understand that the + story-teller meant cowas, a root eaten by the Indians and white explorers + in that distant region. It is a knobbed, irregular root, and when cooked + resembles the ginseng. At this place the party met some of the Indians + whom Captain Clark had treated for slight diseases, when they passed that + way, the previous autumn. They bad sounded the praises of the white men + and their medicine, and others were now waiting to be treated in the same + manner. The Indians were glad to pay for their treatment, and the white + men were not sorry to find this easy method of adding to their stock of + food, which was very scanty at this time. The journal sagely adds, “We + cautiously abstain from giving them any but harmless medicines; and as we + cannot possibly do harm, our prescriptions, though unsanctioned by the + faculty, may be useful, and are entitled to some remuneration.” Very + famous and accomplished doctors might say the same thing of their + practice. But the explorers did not meet with pleasant acquaintances only; + in the very next entry is recorded this disagreeable incident: + </p> + <p> + “Four miles beyond this house we came to another large one, containing ten + families, where we halted and made our dinner on two dogs and a small + quantity of roots, which we did not procure without much difficulty. + Whilst we were eating, an Indian standing by, looking with great derision + at our eating dogs, threw a poor half-starved puppy almost into Captain + Lewis’ plate, laughing heartily at the humor of it. Captain Lewis took up + the animal and flung it with great force into the fellow’s face; and + seizing his tomahawk, threatened to cut him down if he dared to repeat + such insolence. He immediately withdrew, apparently much mortified, and we + continued our repast of dog very quietly. Here we met our old Chopunnish + guide, with his family; and soon afterward one of our horses, which had + been separated from the rest in charge of Twisted-hair, and had been in + this neighborhood for several weeks, was caught and restored to us.” + </p> + <p> + Later in that day the party came to a Chopunnish house which was one + hundred and fifty-six feet long and fifteen feet wide. Thirty families + were living in this big house, each family having its fire by itself + burning on the earthen floor, along through the middle of the great + structure. The journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “We arrived very hungry and weary, but could not purchase any provisions, + except a small quantity of the roots and bread of the cows. They had, + however, heard of our medical skill, and made many applications for + assistance, but we refused to do anything unless they gave us either dogs + or horses to eat. We soon had nearly fifty patients. A chief brought his + wife with an abscess on her back, and promised to furnish us with a horse + to-morrow if we would relieve her. Captain Clark, therefore, opened the + abscess, introduced a tent, and dressed it with basilicon. We also + prepared and distributed some doses of flour of sulphur and cream of + tartar, with directions for its use. For these we obtained several dogs, + but too poor for use, and therefore postponed our medical operations till + the morning. In the mean time a number of Indians, besides the residents + of the village, gathered about us or camped in the woody bottom of the + creek.” + </p> + <p> + It will be recollected that when the expedition was in this region (on the + Kooskooskee), during the previous September, on their way westward, they + left their horses with Chief Twisted-hair, travelling overland from that + point. They were now looking for that chief, and the journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “About two o’clock we collected our horses and set out, accompanied by + Weahkoonut, with ten or twelve men and a man who said he was the brother + of Twisted-hair. At four miles we came to a single house of three + families, but could not procure provisions of any kind; and five miles + further we halted for the night near another house, built like the rest, + of sticks, mats, and dried hay, and containing six families. It was now so + difficult to procure anything to eat that our chief dependence was on the + horse which we received yesterday for medicine; but to our great + disappointment he broke the rope by which he was confined, made his + escape, and left us supperless in the rain.” + </p> + <p> + Next day they met an Indian who brought them two canisters of powder, + which they at once knew to be some of that which they had buried last + autumn. The Indian said that his dog had dug it up in the meadow by the + river, and he had restored it to its rightful owners. As a reward for his + honesty, the captains gave him a flint and steel for striking fire; and + they regretted that their own poverty prevented them from being more + liberal to the man. + </p> + <p> + They observed that the Rocky Mountains, now in full sight, were still + covered with snow, and the prospect of crossing them was not very rosy. + Their Chopunnish guide told them that it would be impossible to cross the + mountains before the next full moon, which would be about the first of + June. The journal adds: “To us, who are desirous of reaching the plains of + the Missouri—if for no other reason, for the purpose of enjoying a + good meal—this intelligence was by no means welcome, and gave no + relish to the remainder of the horse killed at Colter’s Creek, which + formed our supper, as part of which had already been our dinner.” Next + day, accordingly, the hunters turned out early in the morning, and before + noon returned with four deer and a duck, which, with the remains of + horse-beef on hand, gave them a much more plentiful stock of provisions + than had lately fallen to their lot. During the previous winter, they were + told, the Indians suffered very much for lack of food, game of all sorts + being scarce. They were forced to boil and eat the moss growing on the + trees, and they cut down the pine-trees for the sake of the small nut to + be found in the pine-cones. Here they were met by an old friend, + Neeshnepahkeeook and the Shoshonee, who had acted as interpreter for them. + The journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “We gave Neeshnepahkeeook and his people some of our game and horse-beef, + besides the entrails of the deer, and four fawns which we found inside of + two of them. They did not eat any of them perfectly raw, but the entrails + had very little cooking; the fawns were boiled whole, and the hide, hair, + and entrails all consumed. The Shoshonee was offended at not having as + much venison as he wished, and refused to interpret; but as we took no + notice of him, he became very officious in the course of a few hours, and + made many efforts to reinstate himself in our favor. The brother of + Twisted-hair, and Neeshnepahkeeook, now drew a sketch, which we preserved, + of all the waters west of the Rocky Mountains.” + </p> + <p> + They now met Twisted-hair, in whose care they had left their horses and + saddles the previous fall, and this was the result of their inquiries:— + </p> + <p> + “Between three and four o’clock in the afternoon we set out, in company + with Neeshuepahkeeook and other Indians, the brother of Twisted-hair + having left us. Our route was up a high steep hill to a level plain with + little wood, through which we passed in a direction parallel to the + (Kooskooskee) River for four miles, when we met Twisted-hair and six of + his people. To this chief we had confided our horses and a part of our + saddles last autumn, and we therefore formed very unfavorable conjectures + on finding that he received us with great coldness. Shortly afterward he + began to speak in a very loud, angry manner, and was answered by + Neeshnepahkeeook. We now discovered that a violent quarrel had arisen + between these chiefs, on the subject, as we afterward understood, of our + horses. But as we could not learn the cause, and were desirous of + terminating the dispute, we interposed, and told them we should go on to + the first water and camp. We therefore set out, followed by all the + Indians, and having reached, at two miles’ distance, a small stream + running to the right, we camped with the two chiefs and their little + bands, forming separate camps at a distance from each other. They all + appeared to be in an ill humor; and as we had already heard reports that + the Indians had discovered and carried off our saddles, and that the + horses were very much scattered, we began to be uneasy, lest there should + be too much foundation for the report. We were therefore anxious to + reconcile the two chiefs as soon as possible, and desired the Shoshonee to + interpret for us while we attempted a mediation, but be peremptorily + refused to speak a word. He observed that it was a quarrel between the two + chiefs, and he had therefore no right to interfere; nor could all our + representations, that by merely repeating what we said he could not + possibly be considered as meddling between the chiefs, induce him to take + any part in it. + </p> + <p> + “Soon afterward Drewyer returned from hunting, and was sent to invite + Twisted-hair to come and smoke with us. He accepted the invitation, and as + we were smoking the pipe over our fire he informed us that according to + his promise on leaving us at the falls of the Columbia, he had collected + our horses and taken charge of them as soon as he reached home. But about + this time Neeshnepahkeeook and Turmachemootoolt (Broken-arm), who, as we + passed, were on a war-party against the Shoshonees on the south branch of + Lewis’ River, returned; and becoming jealous of him, because the horses + had been confided to his care, were constantly quarrelling with him. At + length, being an old man and unwilling to live in perpetual dispute with + these two chiefs, he had given up the care of the horses, which had + consequently become very much scattered. The greater part of them were, + however, still in the neighborhood; some in the forks between the + Chopunnish and Kooskooskee, and three or four at the village of Broken + Arm, about half a day’s march higher up the river. He added, that on the + rise of the river in the spring, the earth had fallen from the door of the + cache, and exposed the saddles, some of which had probably been lost; but + that, as soon as he was acquainted with the situation of them, he had them + buried in another deposit, where they now were. He promised that, if we + would stay the next day at his house, a few miles distant, he would + collect such of the horses as were in the neighborhood, and send his young + men for those in the forks, over the Kooskooskee. He moreover advised us + to visit Broken Arm, who was a chief of great eminence, and he would + himself guide us to his dwelling. + </p> + <p> + “We told him that we would follow his advice in every respect; that we had + confided our horses to his care, and expected he would deliver them to us, + on which we should cheerfully give him the two guns and the ammunition we + had promised him. With this he seemed very much pleased, and declared he + would use every exertion to restore the horses. We now sent for + Neesbnepahkeeook, or Cut Nose, and, after smoking for some time, began by + expressing to the two chiefs our regret at seeing a misunderstanding + between them. Neeshnepahkeeook replied that Twisted Hair was a bad old + man, and wore two faces; for, instead of taking care of our horses, he had + suffered his young men to hunt with them, so that they had been very much + injured, and it was for this reason that Broken Arm and himself had + forbidden him to use them. Twisted Hair made no reply to this speech, and + we then told Neeshnepahkeeook of our arrangement for the next day. He + appeared to be very well satisfied, and said he would himself go with us + to Broken Arm, who expected to see us, and had TWO BAD HORSES FOR US; by + which expression we understood that Broken Arm intended to make us a + present of two horses.” + </p> + <p> + Next day, the party reached the house of Twisted-hair, and began to look + for their horses and saddles. The journal gives this account of the + search:— + </p> + <p> + “Late in the afternoon, Twisted-hair returned with about half the saddles + we had left in the autumn, and some powder and lead which were buried at + the same place. Soon after, the Indians brought us twenty-one of our + horses, the greater part of which were in excellent order, though some had + not yet recovered from hard usage, and three had sore backs. We were, + however, very glad to procure them in any condition. Several Indians came + down from the village of Tunnachemootoolt and passed the night with us. + Cut-nose and Twisted-hair seem now perfectly reconciled, for they both + slept in the house of the latter. The man who had imposed himself upon us + as a brother of Twisted-hair also came and renewed his advances, but we + now found that he was an impertinent, proud fellow, of no respectability + in the nation, and we therefore felt no inclination to cultivate his + intimacy. Our camp was in an open plain, and soon became very + uncomfortable, for the wind was high and cold, and the rain and hail, + which began about seven o’clock, changed in two hours to a heavy fall of + snow, which continued till after six o’clock (May 10th), the next morning, + when it ceased, after covering the ground eight inches deep and leaving + the air keen and cold. We soon collected our horses, and after a scanty + breakfast of roots set out on a course S. 35'0 E.” + </p> + <p> + They were now following the general course of the Kooskooskee, or + Clearwater, as the stream is called, and their route lay in what is now + Nez Perce County, Idaho. They have passed the site of the present city of + Lewiston, named for Captain Lewis. They have arrived in a region inhabited + by the friendly Chopunnish, or Nez Perce, several villages of which nation + were scattered around the camp of the white men. The narrative says: + </p> + <p> + “We soon collected the men of consideration, and after smoking, explained + how destitute we were of provisions. The chief spoke to the people, who + immediately brought two bushels of dried quamash-roots, some cakes of the + roots of cows, and a dried salmon-trout; we thanked them for this supply, + but observed that, not being accustomed to live on roots alone, we feared + that such diet might make our men sick, and therefore proposed to exchange + one of our good horses, which was rather poor, for one that was fatter, + and which we might kill. The hospitality of the chief was offended at the + idea of an exchange; he observed that his people had an abundance of young + horses, and that if we were disposed to use that food we might have as + many as we wanted. Accordingly, they soon gave us two fat young horses, + without asking anything in return, an act of liberal hospitality much + greater than any we have witnessed since crossing the Rocky Mountains, if + it be not in fact the only really hospitable treatment we have received in + this part of the world. We killed one of the horses, and then telling the + natives that we were fatigued and hungry, and that as soon as we were + refreshed we would communicate freely with them, began to prepare our + repast. + </p> + <p> + “During this time a principal chief, called Hohastillpilp, came from his + village, about six miles distant, with a party of fifty men, for the + purpose of visiting us. We invited him into our circle, and he alighted + and smoked with us, while his retinue, with five elegant horses, continued + mounted at a short distance. While this was going on, the chief had a + large leathern tent spread for us, and desired that we would make it our + home so long as we remained at his village. We removed there, and having + made a fire, and cooked our supper of horseflesh and roots, collected all + the distinguished men present, and spent the evening in making known who + we were, what were the objects of our journey, and in answering their + inquiries. To each of the chiefs Tunnachemootoolt and Hohastillpilp we + gave a small medal, explaining their use and importance as honorary + distinctions both among the whites and the red men. Our men were well + pleased at once more having made a hearty meal. They had generally been in + the habit of crowding into the houses of the Indians, to purchase + provisions on the best terms they could; for the inhospitality of the + country was such, that often, in the extreme of hunger, they were obliged + to treat the natives with but little ceremony; but this Twisted Hair had + told us was very disagreeable. Finding that these people are so kind and + liberal, we ordered our men to treat them with the greatest respect, and + not to throng round their fires, so that they now agree perfectly well + together. After the council the Indians felt no disposition to retire, and + our tent was filled with them all night.” + </p> + <p> + As the expedition was here in a populous country, among many bands of + Indians, it was thought wise to have a powwow with the head men and + explain to them what were the intentions of the United States Government. + But, owing to the crooked course which their talk must needs take, it was + very difficult to learn if the Indians finally understood what was said. + Here is the journal’s account of the way in which the powwow was + conducted:— + </p> + <p> + “We collected the chiefs and warriors, and having drawn a map of the + relative situation of our country on a mat with a piece of coal, detailed + the nature and power of the American nation, its desire to preserve + harmony between all its red brethren, and its intention of establishing + trading-houses for their relief and support. It was not without + difficulty, nor till after nearly half the day was spent, that we were + able to convey all this information to the Chopunnish, much of which might + have been lost or distorted in its circuitous route through a variety of + languages; for in the first place, we spoke in English to one of our men, + who translated it into French to Chaboneau; he interpreted it to his wife + in the Minnetaree language; she then put it into Shoshonee, and the young + Shoshonee prisoner explained it to the Chopunnish in their own dialect. At + last we succeeded in communicating the impression we wished, and then + adjourned the council; after which we amused them by showing the wonders + of the compass, spy-glass, magnet, watch, and air-gun, each of which + attracted its share of admiration.” + </p> + <p> + The simple-minded Indians, who seemed to think that the white men could + heal all manner of diseases, crowded around them next day, begging for + medicines and treatment. These were freely given, eye-water being most in + demand. There was a general medical powwow. The journal adds:— + </p> + <p> + “Shortly after, the chiefs and warriors held a council among themselves, + to decide on an answer to our speech, and the result was, as we were + informed, that they had full confidence in what we had told them, and were + resolved to follow our advice. This determination having been made, the + principal chief, Tunnachemootoolt, took a quantity of flour of the roots + of cow-weed (cowas), and going round to all the kettles and baskets in + which his people were cooking, thickened the soup into a kind of mush. He + then began an harangue, setting forth the result of the deliberations + among the chiefs, and after exhorting them to unanimity, concluded with an + invitation to all who acquiesced in the proceedings of the council to come + and eat; while those who were of a different mind were requested to show + their dissent by not partaking of the feast. During this animated + harangue, the women, who were probably uneasy at the prospect of forming + this proposed new connection with strangers, tore their hair, and wrung + their hands with the greatest appearance of distress. But the concluding + appeal of the orator effectually stopped the mouths of every malecontent, + and the proceedings were ratified, and the mush devoured with the most + zealous unanimity. + </p> + <p> + “The chiefs and warriors then came in a body to visit us as we were seated + near our tent; and at their instance, two young men, one of whom was a son + of Tunnachemootoolt, and the other the youth whose father had been killed + by the Pahkees, presented to us each a fine horse. We invited the chiefs + to be seated, and gave every one of them a flag, a pound of powder, and + fifty balls, and a present of the same kind to the young men from whom we + had received the horses. They then invited us into the tent, and said that + they now wished to answer what we had told them yesterday, but that many + of their people were at that moment waiting in great pain for our medical + assistance.” + </p> + <p> + It was agreed, therefore, that Captain Clark, who seems to have been their + favorite physician, should attend to the sick and lame, while Captain + Lewis should conduct a council with the chiefs and listen to what they had + to say. The upshot of the powwow was that the Chopunnish said they had + sent three of their warriors with a pipe to make peace with the + Shoshonees, last summer, as they had been advised to do by the white men. + The Shoshonees, unmindful of the sacredness of this embassy, had killed + the young warriors and had invited the battle which immediately took + place, in which the Chopunnish killed forty-two of the Shoshonees, to get + even for the wanton killing of their three young men. The white men now + wanted some of the Chopunnish to accompany them to the plains of the + Missouri, but the Indians were not willing to go until they were assured + that they would not be waylaid and slain by their enemies of the other + side of the mountains. The Chopunnish would think over the proposal that + some of their young men should go over the range with the white men; a + decision on this point should be reached before the white men left the + country. Anyhow, the white men might be sure that the Indians would do + their best to oblige their visitors. Their conclusion was, “For, although + we are poor, our hearts are good.” The story of this conference thus + concludes:— + </p> + <p> + “As soon as this speech was concluded, Captain Lewis replied at some + length; with this they appeared highly gratified, and after smoking the + pipe, made us a present of another fat horse for food. We, in turn, gave + Broken-arm a phial of eye-water, with directions to wash the eyes of all + who should apply for it; and as we promised to fill it again when it was + exhausted, he seemed very much pleased with our liberality. To + Twisted-hair, who had last night collected six more horses, we gave a gun, + one hundred balls, and two pounds of powder, and told him he should have + the same quantity when we received the remainder of our horses. In the + course of the day three more of them were brought in, and a fresh exchange + of small presents put the Indians in excellent humor. On our expressing a + wish to cross the river and form a camp, in order to hunt and fish till + the snows had melted, they recommended a position a few miles distant, and + promised to furnish us to-morrow with a canoe to cross. We invited + Twisted-hair to settle near our camp, for he has several young sons, one + of whom we hope to engage as a guide, and he promised to do so. Having now + settled all their affairs, the Indians divided themselves into two + parties, and began to play the game of hiding a bone, already described as + common to all the natives of this country, which they continued playing + for beads and other ornaments.” + </p> + <p> + As there was so dismal a prospect for crossing the snow-covered mountains + at this season of the year, the captains of the expedition resolved to + establish a camp and remain until the season should be further advanced. + Accordingly, a spot on the north side of the river, recommended to them by + the Indians, was selected, and a move across the stream was made. A single + canoe was borrowed for the transit of the baggage, and the horses were + driven in to swim across, and the passage was accomplished without loss. + The camp was built on the site of an old Indian house, in a circle about + thirty yards in diameter, near the river and in an advantageous position. + As soon as the party were encamped, the two Chopunnish chiefs came down to + the opposite bank, and, with twelve of their nation, began to sing. This + was the custom of these people, being a token of their friendship on such + occasions. The captains sent a canoe over for the chiefs, and, after + smoking for some time, Hohastillpilp presented Captain with a fine gray + horse which he had brought over for that purpose, and he was perfectly + satisfied to receive in return a handkerchief, two hundred balls, and four + pounds of powder. + </p> + <p> + Here is some curious information concerning the bears which they found in + this region. It must be borne in mind that they were still west of the + Bitter Root Mountains:— + </p> + <p> + “The hunters killed some pheasants, two squirrels, and a male and a female + bear, the first of which was large, fat, and of a bay color; the second + meagre, grizzly, and of smaller size. They were of the species (Ursus + horribilis) common to the upper part of the Missouri, and might well be + termed the variegated bear, for they are found occasionally of a black, + grizzly, brown, or red color. There is every reason to believe them to be + of precisely the same species. Those of different colors are killed + together, as in the case of these two, and as we found the white and bay + associated together on the Missouri; and some nearly white were seen in + this neighborhood by the hunters. Indeed, it is not common to find any two + bears of the same color; and if the difference in color were to constitute + a distinction of species, the number would increase to almost twenty. Soon + afterward the hunters killed a female bear with two cubs. The mother was + black, with a considerable intermixture of white hairs and a white spot on + the breast. One of the cubs was jet black, and the other of a light + reddish-brown or bay color. The hair of these variegated bears is much + finer, longer, and more abundant than that of the common black bear; but + the most striking differences between them are that the former are larger + and have longer tusks, and longer as well as blunter talons; that they + prey more on other animals; that they lie neither so long nor so closely + in winter quarters; and that they never climb a tree, however closely + pressed by the hunters. These variegated bears, though specifically the + same with those we met on the Missouri, are by no means so ferocious; + probably because the scarcity of game and the habit of living on roots may + have weaned them from the practices of attacking and devouring animals. + Still, however, they are not so passive as the common black bear, which is + also to be found here; for they have already fought with our hunters, + though with less fury than those on the other side of the mountains. + </p> + <p> + “A large part of the meat we gave to the Indians, to whom it was a real + luxury, as they scarcely taste flesh once in a month. They immediately + prepared a large fire of dried wood, on which was thrown a number of + smooth stones from the river. As soon as the fire went down and the stones + were heated, they were laid next to each other in a level position, and + covered with a quantity of pine branches, on which were placed flitches of + the meat, and then boughs and flesh alternately for several courses, + leaving a thick layer of pine on the top. On this heap they then poured a + small quantity of water, and covered the whole with earth to the depth of + four inches. After remaining in this state for about three hours, the meat + was taken off, and was really more tender than that which we had boiled or + roasted, though the strong flavor of the pine rendered it disagreeable to + our palates. This repast gave them much satisfaction; for, though they + sometimes kill the black bear, they attack very reluctantly the fierce + variegated bear; and never except when they can pursue him on horseback + over the plains, and shoot him with arrows.” + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0022" id="link2HCH0022"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XXII — Camping with the Nez Perces + </h2> + <p> + Soon after they had fixed their camp, the explorers bade farewell to their + good friend Tunnachemootoolt and his young men, who returned to their + homes farther down the river. Others of the Nez Perce, or Chopunnish, + nation visited them, and the strangers were interested in watching the + Indians preparing for their hunt. As they were to hunt the deer, they had + the head, horns, and hide of that animal so prepared that when it was + placed on the head and body of a hunter, it gave a very deceptive idea of + a deer; the hunter could move the head of the decoy so that it looked like + a deer feeding, and the suspicious animals were lured within range of the + Indians’ bow and arrow. + </p> + <p> + On the sixteenth of May, Hohastillpilp and his young men also left the + white men’s camp and returned to their own village. The hunters of the + party did not meet with much luck in their quest for game, only one deer + and a few pheasants being brought in for several days. The party were fed + on roots and herbs, a species of onion being much prized by them. Bad + weather confined them to their camp, and a common entry in their journal + refers to their having slept all night in a pool of water formed by the + falling rain; their tent-cover was a worn-out leathern affair no longer + capable of shedding the rain. While it rained in the meadows where they + were camped, they could see the snow covering the higher plains above + them; on those plains the snow was more than a foot deep, and yet the + plants and shrubs seemed to thrive in the midst of the snow. On the + mountains the snow was several feet in depth. The journalist says: “So + that within twenty miles of our camp we observe the rigors of winter cold, + the cool air of spring, and the oppressive heat of midsummer.” They kept a + shrewd lookout for the possibilities of future occupation of the land by + white men; and, writing here of country and its character, the journalist + says: “In short, this district affords many advantages to settlers, and if + properly cultivated, would yield every object necessary for the comfort + and subsistence of civilized man.” But in their wildest dreams, Captains + Lewis and Clark could not have foreseen that in that identical region + thrifty settlements of white men should flourish and that the time would + come when the scanty remnant of the Chopunnish, whom we now call Nez + Perces, would be gathered on a reservation near their camping-place. But + both of these things have come to pass. + </p> + <p> + In describing the dress of the Chopunnish, or Nez Perces, the journal says + that tippets, or collars, were worn by the men. “That of Hohastillpilp,” + says the journal, “was formed of human scalps and adorned with the thumbs + and fingers of several men slain by him in battle.” And yet the journal + immediately adds: “The Chopunnish are among the most amiable men we have + seen. Their character is placid and gentle, rarely moved to passion, yet + not often enlivened by gayety.” In short, the Indians were amiable + savages; and it is a savage trait to love to destroy one’s enemies. + </p> + <p> + Here is an entry in the journal of May 19 which will give the reader some + notion of the privations and the pursuits of the party while shut up in + camp for weary weeks in the early summer of 1806:— + </p> + <p> + “After a cold, rainy night, during a greater part of which we lay in the + water, the weather became fair; we then sent some men to a village above + us, on the opposite side, to purchase some roots. They carried with them + for this purpose a small collection of awls, knitting-pins, and armbands, + with which they obtained several bushels of the root of cows, and some + bread of the same material. They were followed, too, by a train of + invalids from the village, who came to ask for our assistance. The men + were generally afflicted with sore eyes; but the women had besides this a + variety of other disorders, chiefly rheumatic, a violent pain and weakness + in the loins, which is a common complaint among them; one of them seemed + much dejected, and as we thought, from the account of her disease, + hysterical. We gave her thirty drops of laudanum, and after administering + eye-water, rubbing the rheumatic patients with volatile liniment, and + giving cathartics to others, they all thought themselves much relieved and + returned highly satisfied to the village. We were fortunate enough to + retake one of the horses on which we (Captain Lewis) had crossed the Rocky + Mountains in the autumn, and which had become almost wild since that + time.” + </p> + <p> + A day or two later, the journal has this significant entry: “On parcelling + out the stores, the stock of each man was found to be only one awl, and + one knitting-pin, half an ounce of vermilion, two needles, a few skeins of + thread, and about a yard of ribbon—a slender means of bartering for + our subsistence; but the men have been so much accustomed to privations + that now neither the want of meat nor the scanty funds of the party + excites the least anxiety among them.” To add to their discomfort, there + was a great deal of sickness in the camp, owing to the low diet of the + men. Sacajawea’s baby was ill with mumps and teething, and it is suggested + that the two captains would have been obliged to “walk the floor all + night,” if there had been any floor to walk on; as it was, they were + deprived of their nightly rest. Here is an example of what the doctors + would call heroic treatment by Captain Clark, who conducted all such + experiments:— + </p> + <p> + “With one of the men (Bratton) we have ventured an experiment of a very + robust nature. He has been for some time sick, but has now recovered his + flesh, eats heartily, and digests well, but has so great a weakness in the + loins that he cannot walk or even sit upright without extreme pain. After + we had in vain exhausted the resources of our art, one of the hunters + mentioned that he had known persons in similar situations to be restored + by violent sweats, and at the request of the patient, we permitted the + remedy to be applied. For this purpose a hole about four feet deep and + three in diameter was dug in the earth, and heated well by a large fire in + the bottom of it. The fire was then taken out, and an arch formed over the + hole by means of willow-poles, and covered with several blankets so as to + make a perfect awning. The patient being stripped naked, was seated under + this on a beach, with a piece of board for his feet, and with a jug of + water sprinkled the bottom and sides of the hole, so as to keep up as hot + a steam as he could bear. After remaining twenty minutes in this + situation, he was taken out, immediately plunged twice in cold water, and + brought back to the hole, where he resumed the vapor bath. During all this + time he drank copiously a strong infusion of horse-mint, which was used as + a substitute for seneca-root, which our informant said he had seen + employed on these occasions, but of which there is none in this country. + At the end of three-quarters of an hour he was again withdrawn from the + hole, carefully wrapped, and suffered to cool gradually. This operation + was performed yesterday; this morning he walked about and is nearly free + from pain. About eleven o’clock a canoe arrived with three Indians, one of + whom was the poor creature who had lost the use of his limbs, and for + whose recovery the natives seem very anxious, as he is a chief of + considerable rank among them. His situation is beyond the reach of our + skill. He complains of no pain in any peculiar limb, and we therefore + think his disorder cannot be rheumatic, and his limbs would have been more + diminished if his disease had been a paralytic affection. We had already + ascribed it to his diet of roots, and had recommended his living on fish + and flesh, and using the cold bath every morning, with a dose of cream of + tartar or flowers of sulphur every third day.” + </p> + <p> + It is gratifying to be able to record the fact that Bratton and the Indian + (who was treated in the same manner) actually recovered from their malady. + The journal says of the Indian that his restoration was “wonderful.” This + is not too strong a word to use under the circumstances, for the chief had + been helpless for nearly three years, and yet he was able to get about and + take care of himself after he had been treated by Captain (otherwise + Doctor) Clark. Two of his men met with a serious disaster about this time; + going across the river to trade with some Indians, their boat was stove + and went to the bottom, carrying with it three blankets, a blanket-coat, + and their scanty stock of merchandise, all of which was utterly lost. + Another disaster, which happened next day, is thus recorded:— + </p> + <p> + “Two of our men, who had been up the river to trade with the Indians, + returned quite unsuccessful. Nearly opposite the village, their horse fell + with his load down a steep cliff into the river, across which he swam. An + Indian on the opposite side drove him back to them; but in crossing most + of the articles were lost and the paint melted. Understanding their + intentions, the Indians attempted to come over to them, but having no + canoe, were obliged to use a raft, which struck on a rock, upset, and the + whole store of roots and bread were destroyed. This failure completely + exhausted our stock of merchandise; but the remembrance of what we + suffered from cold and hunger during the passage of the Rocky Mountains + makes us anxious to increase our means of subsistence and comfort, since + we have again to encounter the same inconvenience.” + </p> + <p> + But the ingenuity of the explorers was equal to this emergency. Having + observed that the Indians were very fond of brass buttons, which they + fastened to their garments as ornaments, and not for the useful purpose + for which buttons are made, the men now proceeded to cut from their shabby + United States uniforms those desired articles, and thus formed a new fund + for trading purposes. To these they added some eye-water, some basilicon, + and a few small tin boxes in which phosphorus had been kept. Basilicon, of + which mention is frequently made in the journal, was an ointment composed + of black pitch, white wax, resin, and olive oil; it was esteemed as a + sovereign remedy for all diseases requiring an outward application. With + these valuables two men were sent out to trade with the Indians, on the + second day of June, and they returned with three bushels of eatable roots + and some cowas bread. Later in that day, a party that had been sent down + the river (Lewis’) in quest of food, returned with a goodly supply of + roots and seventeen salmon. These fish, although partly spoiled by the + long journey home, gave great satisfaction to the hungry adventurers, for + they were the promise of a plenty to come when the salmon should ascend + the rivers that make into the Columbia. At this time we find the following + interesting story in the journal of the expedition:— + </p> + <p> + “We had lately heard, also, that some Indians, residing at a considerable + distance, on the south side of the Kooskooskee, were in possession of two + tomahawks, one of which had been left at our camp on Moscheto Creek, and + the other had been stolen while we were with the Chopunnish in the autumn. + This last we were anxious to obtain, in order to give it to the relations + of our unfortunate companion, Sergeant Floyd,(1) to whom it once belonged. + We therefore sent Drewyer, with the two chiefs Neeshnepahkeeook and + Hohastillpilp (who had returned to us) to demand it. On their arrival, + they found that the present possessor of it, who had purchased it of the + thief, was at the point of death; and his relations were unwilling to give + it up, as they wished to bury it in the grave with the deceased. The + influence of Neeshnepahkeeook, however, at length prevailed; and they + consented to surrender the tomahawk on receiving two strands of beads and + a handkerchief from Drewyer, and from each of the chiefs a horse, to be + killed at the funeral of their kinsman, according to the custom of the + country.” + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + (1) See page 23. +</pre> + <p> + The Chopunnish chiefs now gave their final answer to the two captains who + had requested guides from them. The chiefs said that they could not + accompany the party, but later in the summer they might cross the great + divide and spend the next winter on the headwaters of the Missouri. At + present, they could only promise that some of their young men should go + with the whites; these had not been selected, but they would be sent on + after the party, if the two captains insisted on starting now. This was + not very encouraging, for they had depended upon the Indians for guidance + over the exceedingly difficult and even dangerous passages of the + mountains. Accordingly, it was resolved that, while waiting on the motions + of the Indians, the party might as well make a visit to Quamash flats, + where they could lay in a stock of provisions for their arduous journey. + It is not certain which of the several Quamash flats mentioned in the + history of the expedition is here referred to; but it is likely that the + open glade in which Captain Clark first struck the low country of the west + is here meant. It was here that he met the Indian boys hiding in the + grass, and from here he led the expedition out of the wilderness. For + “quamash” read “camass,” an edible root much prized by the Nez Perces then + and now. + </p> + <p> + While they lingered at their camp, they were visited by several bands of + friendly Indians. The explorers traded horses with their visitors, and, + with what they already had, they now found their band to number + sixty-five, all told. Having finished their trading, they invited the + Indians to take part in the games of prisoners’ base and foot-racing; in + the latter game the Indians were very expert, being able to distance the + fleetest runner of the white men’s party. At night, the games were + concluded by a dance. The account of the expedition says that the captains + were desirous of encouraging these exercises before they should begin the + passage over the mountains, “as several of the men are becoming lazy from + inaction.” + </p> + <p> + On the tenth of June the party set out for Quamash flats, each man well + mounted and leading a spare horse which carried a small load. To their + dismay, they found that their good friends, the Chopunnish, unwilling to + part with them, were bound to accompany them to the hunting-grounds. The + Indians would naturally expect to share in the hunt and to be provided for + by the white men. The party halted there only until the sixth of June, and + then, collecting their horses, set out through what proved to be a very + difficult trail up the creek on which they were camped, in a northeasterly + direction. There was still a quantity of snow on the ground, although this + was in shady places and hollows. Vegetation was rank, and the dogtooth + violet, honeysuckle, blue-bell, and columbine were in blossom. The pale + blue flowers of the quamash gave to the level country the appearance of a + blue lake. Striking Hungry Creek, which Captain Clark had very + appropriately named when he passed that way, the previous September, they + followed it up to a mountain for about three miles, when they found + themselves enveloped in snow; their limbs were benumbed, and the snow, + from twelve to fifteen feet deep, so paralyzed their feet that further + progress was impossible. Here the journal should be quoted:— + </p> + <p> + “We halted at the sight of this new difficulty. We already knew that to + wait till the snows of the mountains had dissolved, so as to enable us to + distinguish the road, would defeat our design of returning to the United + States this season. We now found also that as the snow bore our horses + very well, travelling was infinitely easier than it was last fall, when + the rocks and fallen timber had so much obstructed our march. But it would + require five days to reach the fish-weirs at the mouth of Colt (-killed) + Creek, even if we were able to follow the proper ridges of the mountains; + and the danger of missing our direction is exceedingly great while every + track is covered with snow. During these five days, too, we have no chance + of finding either grass or underwood for our horses, the snow being so + deep. To proceed, therefore, under such circumstances, would be to hazard + our being bewildered in the mountains, and to insure the loss of our + horses; even should we be so fortunate as to escape with our lives, we + might be obliged to abandon all our papers and collections. It was + therefore decided not to venture any further; to deposit here all the + baggage and provisions for which we had no immediate use; and, reserving + only subsistence for a few days, to return while our horses were yet + strong to some spot where we might live by hunting, till a guide could be + procured to conduct us across the mountains. Our baggage was placed on + scaffolds and carefully covered, as were also the instruments and papers, + which we thought it safer to leave than to risk over the roads and creeks + by which we came.” + </p> + <p> + There was nothing left to do but to return to Hungry Creek. Finding a + scanty supply of grass, they camped under most depressing circumstances; + their outlook now was the passing of four or five days in the midst of + snows from ten to fifteen feet deep, with no guide, no road, and no + forage. In this emergency, two men were sent back to the Chopunnish + country to hurry up the Indians who had promised to accompany them over + the mountains; and, to insure a guide, these men were authorized to offer + a rifle as a reward for any one who would undertake the task. For the + present, it was thought best to return to Quamash flats. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0023" id="link2HCH0023"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XXIII — Crossing the Bitter Root Mountains + </h2> + <p> + Disasters many kept pace with the unhappy explorers on their way back to + Quamash flats after their rebuff at the base of the Bitter Root Mountains. + One of the horses fell down a rough and rocky place, carrying his rider + with him; but fortunately neither horse nor man was killed. Next, a man, + sent ahead to cut down the brush that blocked the path, cut himself badly + on the inside of his thigh and bled copiously. The hunters sent out for + game returned empty-handed. The fishermen caught no fish, but broke the + two Indian gigs, or contrivances for catching fish, with which they had + been provided. The stock of salt had given out, the bulk of their supply + having been left on the mountain. Several large mushrooms were brought in + by Cruzatte, but these were eaten without pepper, salt, or any kind of + grease,—“a very tasteless, insipid food,” as the journal says. To + crown all, the mosquitoes were pestilential in their numbers and venom. + </p> + <p> + Nevertheless, the leaders of the expedition were determined to press on + and pass the Bitter Root Mountains as soon as a slight rest at Quamash + flats should be had. If they should tarry until the snows melted from the + trail, they would be too late to reach the United States that winter and + would be compelled to pass the next winter at some camp high up on the + Missouri, as they had passed one winter at Fort Mandan, on their way out. + This is the course of argument which Captain Lewis and Clark took to + persuade each other as to the best way out of their difficulties:— + </p> + <p> + “The snows have formed a hard, coarse bed without crust, on which the + horses walk safely without slipping; the chief difficulty, therefore, is + to find the road. In this we may be assisted by the circumstance that, + though generally ten feet in depth, the snow has been thrown off by the + thick and spreading branches of the trees, and from round the trunk; while + the warmth of the trunk itself, acquired by the reflection of the sun, or + communicated by natural heat of the earth, which is never frozen under + these masses, has dissolved the snow so much that immediately at the roots + its depth is not more than one or two feet. We therefore hope that the + marks of the baggage rubbing against the trees may still be perceived; and + we have decided, in case the guide cannot be procured, that one of us will + take three or four of our most expert woodsmen, several of our best + horses, and an ample supply of provisions, go on two days’ journey in + advance, and endeavor to trace the route by the marks of the Indian + baggage on the trees, which we would then mark more distinctly with a + tomahawk. When they should have reached two days’ journey beyond Hungry + Creek, two of the men were to be sent back to apprise the rest of their + success, and if necessary to cause them to delay there; lest, by advancing + too soon, they should be forced to halt where no food could be obtained + for the horses. If the traces of the baggage be too indistinct, the whole + party is to return to Hungry Creek, and we will then attempt the passage + by ascending the main southwest branch of Lewis’ River through the country + of the Shoshonees, over to Madison or Gallatin River. On that route, the + Chopunnish inform us, there is a passage not obstructed by snow at this + period of the year.” + </p> + <p> + On their return to Quamash flats the party met two Indians who, after some + parley, agreed to pilot them over the mountains; these camped where they + were, and the party went on to the flats, having exacted a promise from + the Indians that they would wait there two nights for the white men to + come along. When the party reached their old camp, they found that one of + their hunters had killed a deer, which was a welcome addition to their + otherwise scanty supper. Next day, the hunters met with astonishing luck, + bringing into camp eight deer and three bears. Four of the men were + directed to go to the camp of the two Indians, and if these were bent on + going on, to accompany them and so mark, or blaze, the trees that the rest + of the party would have no difficulty in finding the way, later on. + </p> + <p> + Meanwhile, the men who had been sent back for guides returned, bringing + with them the pleasing information that three Indians whom they brought + with them had consented to guide the party to the great falls of the + Missouri, for the pay of two guns. Accordingly, once more (June 26), they + set out for the mountains, travelling for the third time in twelve days + the route between Quamash flats and the Bitter Root range. For the second + time they ran up against a barrier of snow. They measured the depth of the + snow at the place where they had left their luggage at their previous + repulse and found it to be ten feet and ten inches deep; and it had sunk + four feet since they had been turned back at this point. Pressing on, + after they reached their old camp, they found a bare spot on the side of + the mountain where there was a little grass for their horses; and there + they camped for the night. They were fortunate in having Indian guides + with them; and the journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “The marks on the trees, which had been our chief dependence, are much + fewer and more difficult to be distinguished than we had supposed. But our + guides traverse this trackless region with a kind of instinctive sagacity; + they never hesitate, they are never embarrassed; and so undeviating is + their step, that wherever the snow has disappeared, for even a hundred + paces, we find the summer road. With their aid the snow is scarcely a + disadvantage; for though we are often obliged to slip down, yet the fallen + timber and the rocks, which are now covered, were much more troublesome + when we passed in the autumn. Travelling is indeed comparatively pleasant, + as well as more rapid, the snow being hard and coarse, without a crust, + and perfectly hard enough to prevent the horses sinking more than two or + three inches. After the sun has been on it for some hours it becomes + softer than it is early in the morning; yet they are almost always able to + get a sure foothold.” + </p> + <p> + On the twenty-ninth of June the party were well out of the snows in which + they had been imprisoned, although they were by no means over the mountain + barrier that had been climbed so painfully during the past few days. Here + they observed the tracks of two barefooted Indians who had evidently been + fleeing from their enemies, the Pahkees. These signs disturbed the Indian + guides, for they at once said that the tracks were made by their friends, + the Ootlashoots, and that the Pahkees would also cut them (the guides) off + on their return from the trip over the mountains. On the evening of the + day above mentioned, the party camped at the warm springs which fall into + Traveller’s-rest Creek, a point now well known to the explorers, who had + passed that way before. Of the springs the journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “These warm springs are situated at the foot of a hill on the north side + of Traveller’s-rest Creek, which is ten yards wide at this place. They + issue from the bottoms, and through the interstices of a gray freestone + rock, which rises in irregular masses round their lower side. The + principal spring, which the Indians have formed into a bath by stopping + the run with stone and pebbles, is about the same temperature as the + warmest bath used at the hot springs in Virginia. On trying, Captain Lewis + could with difficulty remain in it nineteen minutes, and then was affected + with a profuse perspiration. The two other springs are much hotter, the + temperature being equal to that of the warmest of the hot springs in + Virginia. Our men, as well as the Indians, amused themselves with going + into the bath; the latter, according to their universal custom, going + first into the hot bath, where they remain as long as they can bear the + heat, then plunging into the creek, which is now of an icy coldness, and + repeating this operation several times, but always ending with the warm + bath.” + </p> + <p> + Traveller’s-rest Creek, it will be recollected, is on the summit of the + Bitter Root Mountains, and the expedition had consequently passed from + Idaho into Montana, as these States now exist on the map; but they were + still on the Pacific side of the Great Divide, or the backbone of the + continent. Much game was seen in this region, and after reaching + Traveller’s-rest Creek, the hunters killed six deer; great numbers of elk + and bighorn were also seen in this vicinity. On the thirtieth of July the + party were at their old camp of September 9 and 10, 1805, having made one + hundred and fifty-six miles from Quamash flats to the mouth of the creek + where they now camped. Here a plan to divide and subdivide the party was + made out as follows:— + </p> + <p> + “Captain Lewis, with nine men, is to pursue the most direct route to the + falls of the Missouri, where three of his party (Thompson, Goodrich, and + McNeal) are to be left to prepare carriages for transporting the baggage + and canoes across the portage. With the remaining six, he will ascend + Maria’s River to explore the country and ascertain whether any branch of + it reaches as far north as latitude 50'0, after which he will descend that + river to its mouth. The rest of the men will accompany Captain Clark to + the head of Jefferson River, which Sergeant Ordway and a party of nine men + will descend, with the canoes and other articles deposited there. Captain + Clark’s party, which will then be reduced to ten men and Sacajawea, will + proceed to the Yellowstone, at its nearest approach to the Three Forks of + the Missouri. There he will build canoes, go down that river with seven of + his party, and wait at its mouth till the rest of the party join him. + Sergeant Pryor, with two others, will then take the horses by land to the + Mandans. From that nation he will go to the British posts on the + Assiniboin with a letter to Mr. Alexander Henry, to procure his endeavors + to prevail on some of the Sioux chiefs to accompany him to the city of + Washington. . . . + </p> + <p> + “The Indians who had accompanied us intended leaving us in order to seek + their friends, the Ootlashoots; but we prevailed on them to accompany + Captain Lewis a part of his route, so as to show him the shortest road to + the Missouri, and in the mean time amused them with conversation and + running races, on foot and with horses, in both of which they proved + themselves hardy, athletic, and active. To the chief Captain Lewis gave a + small medal and a gun, as a reward for having guided us across the + mountains; in return the customary civility of exchanging names passed + between them, by which the former acquired the title of Yomekollick, of + White Bearskin Unfolded.” + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0024" id="link2HCH0024"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XXIV — The Expedition Subdivided + </h2> + <p> + On the third of July, accordingly, Captain Lewis, with nine of his men and + five Indians, proceeded down the valley lying between the Rocky and the + Bitter Root ranges of mountains, his general course being due northwest of + Clark’s fork of the Columbia River. Crossing several small streams that + make into this river, they finally reached and crossed the Missoula River + from west to east, below the confluence of the St. Mary’s and Hell-gate + rivers, or creeks; for these streams hardly deserve the name of rivers. + The party camped for the night within a few miles of the site of the + present city of Missoula, Montana. Here they were forced to part from + their good friends and allies, the Indians, who had crossed the range with + them. These men were afraid that they would be cut off by their foes, the + Pahkees, and they wanted to find and join some band of the Indian nation + with whom they were on terms of friendship. The journal gives this account + of the parting:— + </p> + <p> + “We now smoked a farewell pipe with our estimable companions, who + expressed every emotion of regret at parting with us; which they felt the + more, because they did not conceal their fears of our being cut off by the + Pahkees. We also gave them a shirt, a handkerchief, and a small quantity + of ammunition. The meat which they received from us was dried and left at + this place, as a store during the homeward journey. This circumstance + confirms our belief that there is no route along Clark’s River to the + Columbian plains so near or so good as that by which we came; for, though + these people mean to go for several days’ journey down that river, to look + for the Shalees (Ootlashoots), yet they intend returning home by the same + pass of the mountains through which they have conducted us. This route is + also used by all the nations whom we know west of the mountains who are in + the habit of visiting the plains of the Missouri; while on the other side, + all the war-paths of the Pahkees which fall into this valley of Clark’s + River concentre at Traveller’s-rest, beyond which these people have never + ventured to the west.” + </p> + <p> + During the next day or two, Captain Lewis kept on the same general course + through a well-watered country, the ground gradually rising as he + approached the base of the mountains. Tracks of Indians, supposed to be + Pahkees, became more numerous and fresh. On the seventh of July, the + little company went through the famous pass of the Rocky Mountains, now + properly named for the leaders of the expedition. Here is the journal’s + account of their finding the Lewis and Clark Pass:— + </p> + <p> + “At the distance of twelve miles we left the river, or rather the creek, + and having for four miles crossed two ridges in a direction north fifteen + degrees east, again struck to the right, proceeding through a narrow + bottom covered with low willows and grass, and abundantly supplied with + both deer and beaver. After travelling seven miles we reached the foot of + a ridge, which we ascended in a direction north forty-five degrees east, + through a low gap of easy ascent from the westward; and, on descending it, + were delighted at discovering that this was the dividing ridge between the + waters of the Columbia and those of the Missouri. From this gap Fort + Mountain is about twenty miles in a northeastern direction. We now wound + through the hills and mountains, passing several rivulets which ran to the + right, and at the distance of nine miles from the gap encamped, having + made thirty-two miles. We procured some beaver, and this morning saw + tracks of buffalo, from which it appears that those animals do sometimes + penetrate a short distance among the mountains.” + </p> + <p> + Next day the party found themselves in clover, so to speak. Game was + plenty, and, as their object now was to accumulate meat for the three men + who were to be left at the falls (and who were not hunters), they resolved + to strike the Medicine, or Sun, River and hunt down its banks. On that + river the journal, July 10, has this to say:— + </p> + <p> + “In the plains are great quantities of two species of prickly-pear now in + bloom. Gooseberries of the common red kind are in abundance and just + beginning to ripen, but there are no currants. The river has now widened + to one hundred yards; it is deep, crowded with islands, and in many parts + rapid. At the distance of seventeen miles, the timber disappears totally + from the river-bottoms. About this part of the river, the wind, which had + blown on our backs, and constantly put the elk on their guard, shifted + round; we then shot three of them and a brown bear. Captain Lewis halted + to skin them, while two of the men took the pack-horses forward to seek + for a camp. It was nine o’clock before he overtook them, at the distance + of seven miles, in the first grove of cottonwood. They had been pursued as + they came along by a very large bear, on which they were afraid to fire, + lest their horses, being unaccustomed to the gun, might take fright and + throw them. This circumstance reminds us of the ferocity of these animals, + when we were last near this place, and admonishes us to be very cautious. + We saw vast numbers of buffalo below us, which kept up a dreadful + bellowing during the night. With all our exertions we were unable to + advance more than twenty-four miles, owing to the mire through which we + are obliged to travel, in consequence of the rain.” + </p> + <p> + The Sun, or Medicine, River empties into the Missouri just above the great + falls of that stream; and near here, opposite White Bear Islands, the + expedition had deposited some of their property in a cache dug near the + river bank, when they passed that way, a year before. On the thirteenth of + the month, having reached their old camping-ground here, the party set to + work making boat-gear and preparing to leave their comrades in camp well + fixed for their stay. The journal adds:— + </p> + <p> + “On opening the cache, we found the bearskins entirely destroyed by the + water, which in a flood of the river had penetrated to them. All the + specimens of plants, too, were unfortunately lost: the chart of the + Missouri, however, still remained unhurt, and several articles contained + in trunks and boxes had suffered but little injury; but a vial of laudanum + had lost its stopper, and the liquid had run into a drawer of medicines, + which it spoiled beyond recovery. The mosquitoes were so troublesome that + it was impossible even to write without a mosquito bier. The buffalo were + leaving us fast, on their way to the southeast.” + </p> + <p> + One of the party met with an amusing adventure here, which is thus + described:— + </p> + <p> + “At night M’Neal, who had been sent in the morning to examine the cache at + the lower end of the portage, returned; but had been prevented from + reaching that place by a singular adventure. Just as he arrived near + Willow run, he approached a thicket of brush in which was a white bear, + which he did not discover till he was within ten feet of him. His horse + started, and wheeling suddenly round, threw M’Neal almost immediately + under the bear, which started up instantly. Finding the bear raising + himself on his hind feet to attack him, he struck him on the head with the + butt end of his musket; the blow was so violent that it broke the breech + of the musket and knocked the bear to the ground. Before he recovered + M’Neal, seeing a willow-tree close by, sprang up, and there remained while + the bear closely guarded the foot of the tree until late in the afternoon. + He then went off; M’Neal being released came down, and having found his + horse, which had strayed off to the distance of two miles, returned to + camp. These animals are, indeed, of a most extraordinary ferocity, and it + is matter of wonder that in all our encounters we have had the good + fortune to escape. We are now troubled with another enemy, not quite so + dangerous, though even more disagreeable-these are the mosquitoes, who now + infest us in such myriads that we frequently get them into our throats + when breathing, and the dog even howls with the torture they occasion.” + </p> + <p> + The intention of Captain Lewis was to reach the river sometimes known as + Maria’s, and sometimes as Marais, or swamp. This stream rises near the + boundary between Montana and the British possessions, and flows into the + Missouri, where the modern town of Ophir is built. The men left at the + great falls were to dig up the canoes and baggage that had been cached + there the previous year, and be ready to carry around the portage of the + falls the stuff that would be brought from the two forks of the Jefferson, + later on, by Sergeant Ordway and his party. It will be recollected that + this stuff had also been cached at the forks of the Jefferson, the year + before. The two parties, thus united, were to go down to the entrance of + Maria’s River into the Missouri, and Captain Lewis expected to join them + there by the fifth of August; if he failed to meet them by that time, they + were to go on down the river and meet Captain Clark at the mouth of the + Yellowstone. This explanation is needed to the proper understanding of the + narrative that follows; for we now have to keep track of three parties of + the explorers. + </p> + <p> + Captain Lewis and his men, having travelled northwest about twenty miles + from the great falls of the Missouri, struck the trail of a wounded + buffalo. They were dismayed by the sight, for that assured them that there + were Indians in the vicinity; and the most natural thing to expect was + that these were Blackfeet, or Minnetarees; both of these tribes are + vicious and rascally people, and they would not hesitate to attack a small + party and rob them of their guns, if they thought themselves able to get + away with them. + </p> + <p> + They were now in the midst of vast herds of buffalo, so numerous that the + whole number seemed one immense herd. Hanging on the flanks were many + wolves; hares and antelope were also abundant. On the fourth day out, + Captain Lewis struck the north fork of Maria’s River, now known as + Cut-bank River, in the northwest corner of Montana. He was desirous of + following up the stream, to ascertain, if possible, whether its + fountain-head was below, or above, the boundary between the United States + and the British possessions. Bad weather and an accident to his + chronometer prevented his accomplishing his purpose, and, on the + twenty-sixth of July, he turned reluctantly back, giving the name of Cape + Disappointment to his last camping-place. Later in that day, as they were + travelling down the main stream (Maria’s River), they encountered the + Indians whom they had hoped to avoid. Let us read the story as it is told + in the journal of the party:— + </p> + <p> + “At the distance of three miles we ascended the hills close to the + river-side, while Drewyer pursued the valley of the river on the opposite + side. But scarcely had Captain Lewis reached the high plain when he saw, + about a mile on his left, a collection of about thirty horses. He + immediately halted, and by the aid of his spy-glass discovered that + one-half of the horses were saddled, and that on the eminence above the + horses several Indians were looking down toward the river, probably at + Drewyer. This was a most unwelcome sight. Their probable numbers rendered + any contest with them of doubtful issue; to attempt to escape would only + invite pursuit, and our horses were so bad that we must certainly be + overtaken; besides which, Drewyer could not yet be aware that the Indians + were near, and if we ran he would most probably be sacrificed. We + therefore determined to make the most of our situation, and advance toward + them in a friendly manner. The flag which we had brought in case of any + such accident was therefore displayed, and we continued slowly our march + toward them. Their whole attention was so engaged by Drewyer that they did + not immediately discover us. As soon as they did see us, they appeared to + be much alarmed and ran about in confusion; some of them came down the + hill and drove their horses within gunshot of the eminence, to which they + then returned, as if to await our arrival. When we came within a quarter + of a mile, one of the Indians mounted and rode at full speed to receive + us; but when within a hundred paces of us, he halted. Captain Lewis, who + had alighted to receive him, held out his hand and beckoned to him to + approach; he only looked at us for some time, and then, without saying a + word, returned to his companions with as much haste as he had advanced. + The whole party now descended the hill and rode toward us. As yet we saw + only eight, but presumed that there must be more behind us, as there were + several horses saddled. We however advanced, and Captain Lewis now told + his two men that he believed these were the Minnetarees of Fort de + Prairie, who, from their infamous character, would in all probability + attempt to rob us; but being determined to die rather than lose his papers + and instruments, he intended to resist to the last extremity, and advised + them to do the same, and to be on the alert should there be any + disposition to attack us. When the two parties came within a hundred yards + of each other, all the Indians, except one, halted. Captain Lewis + therefore ordered his two men to halt while he advanced, and after shaking + hands with the Indian, went on and did the same with the others in the + rear, while the Indian himself shook hands with the two men. They all now + came up; and after alighting, the Indians asked to smoke with us. Captain + Lewis, who was very anxious for Drewyer’s safety, told them that the man + who had gone down the river had the pipe, and requested that as they had + seen him, one of them would accompany R. Fields, to bring him back. To + this they assented, and Fields went with a young man in search of + Drewyer.” + </p> + <p> + Captain Lewis now asked them by signs if they were Minnetarees of the + north, and he was sorry to be told in reply that they were; he knew them + to be a bad lot. When asked if they had any chief among them, they pointed + out three. The captain did not believe them, but, in order to keep on good + terms with them, he gave to one a flag, to another a medal, and to the + third a handkerchief. At Captain Lewis’ suggestion, the Indians and the + white men camped together, and in the course of the evening the red men + told the captain that they were part of a big band of their tribe, or + nation. The rest of the tribe, they said, were hunting further up the + river, and were then in camp near the foot of the Rocky Mountains. The + captain, in return, told them that his party had come from the great lake + where the sun sets, and that he was in hopes that he could induce the + Minnetarees to live in peace with their neighbors and come and trade at + the posts that would be established in their country by and by. He offered + them ten horses and some tobacco if they would accompany his party down + the river below the great falls. To this they made no reply. Being still + suspicious of these sullen guests, Captain Lewis made his dispositions for + the night, with orders for the sentry on duty to rouse all hands if the + Indians should attempt to steal anything in the night. Next morning + trouble began. Says the journal:— + </p> + <p> + “At sunrise, the Indians got up and crowded around the fire near which J. + Fields, who was then on watch, had carelessly left his rifle, near the + head of his brother, who was still asleep. One of the Indians slipped + behind him, and, unperceived, took his brother’s and his own rifle, while + at the same time two others seized those of Drewyer and Captain Lewis. As + soon as Fields turned, he saw the Indian running off with the rifles; + instantly calling his brother, they pursued him for fifty or sixty yards; + just as they overtook him, in the scuffle for the rifles R. Fields stabbed + him through the heart with his knife. The Indian ran about fifteen steps + and fell dead. They now ran back with their rifles to the camp. The moment + the fellow touched his gun, Drewyer, who was awake, jumped up and wrested + it from him. The noise awoke Captain Lewis, who instantly started from the + ground and reached for his gun; but finding it gone, drew a pistol from + his belt, and turning saw the Indian running off with it. He followed him + and ordered him to lay it down, which he did just as the two Fields came + up, and were taking aim to shoot him; when Captain Lewis ordered them not + to fire, as the Indian did not appear to intend any mischief. He dropped + the gun and was going slowly off when Drewyer came out and asked + permission to kill him; but this Captain Lewis forbade, as he had not yet + attempted to shoot us. But finding that the Indians were now endeavoring + to drive off all the horses, he ordered all three of us to follow the main + party, who were chasing the horses up the river, and fire instantly upon + the thieves; while he, without taking time to run for his shot-pouch, + pursued the fellow who had stolen his gun and another Indian, who were + driving away the horses on the left of the camp. He pressed them so + closely that they left twelve of their horses, but continued to drive off + one of our own. + </p> + <p> + “At the distance of three hundred paces they entered a steep niche in the + river-bluffs, when Captain Lewis, being too much out of breath to pursue + them any further, called out, as he had done several times before, that + unless they gave up the horse he would shoot them. As he raised his gun + one of the Indians jumped behind a rock and spoke to the other, who + stopped at the distance of thirty paces. Captain Lewis shot him in the + belly. He fell on his knees and right elbow; but, raising himself a + little, fired, and then crawled behind a rock. The shot had nearly proved + fatal; for Captain Lewis, who was bareheaded, felt the wind of the ball + very distinctly. Not having his shot-pouch, he could not reload his rifle; + and, having only a single charge also for his pistol, he thought it most + prudent not to attack them farther, and retired slowly to the camp. He was + met by Drewyer, who, hearing the report of the guns, had come to his + assistance, leaving the Fields to follow the other Indians. Captain Lewis + ordered him to call out to them to desist from the pursuit, as we could + take the horses of the Indians in place of our own; but they were at too + great a distance to hear him. He therefore returned to the camp, and while + he was saddling the horses the Fields returned with four of our own, + having followed the Indians until two of them swam the river and two + others ascended the hills, so that the horses became dispersed.” + </p> + <p> + The white men were gainers by this sad affair, for they had now in their + possession four of the Indians’ horses, and had lost one of their own. + Besides these, they found in the camp of the Indians four shields, two + bows and their quivers, and one of their two guns. The captain took some + buffalo meat which he found in the camp, and then the rest of their + baggage was burned on the spot. The flag given to one of the so-called + chiefs was retaken; but the medal given to the dead man was left around + his neck. The consequences of this unfortunate quarrel were far-reaching. + The tribe whose member was killed by the white men never forgave the + injury, and for years after there was no safety for white men in their + vicinity except when the wayfarers were in great numbers or strongly + guarded. + </p> + <p> + A forced march was now necessary for the explorers, and they set out as + speedily as possible, well knowing that the Indians would be on their + trail. By three o’clock in the afternoon of that day they had reached + Tansy River, now known as the Teton, having travelled sixty-three miles. + They rested for an hour and a half to refresh their horses, and then + pushed on for seventeen miles further before camping again. Having killed + a buffalo, they had supper and stopped two hours. Then, travelling through + vast herds of buffalo until two o’clock in the morning, they halted again, + almost dead with fatigue; they rested until daylight. On awaking, they + found themselves so stiff and sore with much riding that they could + scarcely stand. But the lives of their friends now at or near the mouth of + Maria’s River were at stake, as well as their own. Indeed, it was not + certain but that the Indians had, by hard riding and a circuitous route, + already attacked the river party left at the falls. So Captain Lewis told + his men that they must go on, and, if attacked, they must tie their horses + together by the head and stand together, selling their lives as dearly as + possible, or routing their enemies. The journal now says:— + </p> + <p> + “To this they all assented, and we therefore continued our route to the + eastward, till at the distance of twelve miles we came near the Missouri, + when we heard a noise which seemed like the report of a gun. We therefore + quickened our pace for eight miles farther, and, being about five miles + from Grog Spring, now heard distinctly the noise of several rifles from + the river. We hurried to the bank, and saw with exquisite satisfaction our + friends descending the river. They landed to greet us, and after turning + our horses loose, we embarked with our baggage, and went down to the spot + where we had made a deposite. This, after reconnoitring the adjacent + country, we opened; but, unfortunately, the cache had caved in, and most + of the articles were injured. We took whatever was still worth preserving, + and immediately proceeded to the point, where we found our deposits in + good order. By a singular good fortune, we were here joined by Sergeant + Gass and Willard from the Falls, who had been ordered to come with the + horses here to assist in procuring meat for the voyage, as it had been + calculated that the canoes would reach this place much sooner than Captain + Lewis’s party. After a very heavy shower of rain and hail, attended with + violent thunder and lightning, we started from the point, and giving a + final discharge to our horses, went over to the island where we had left + our red pirogue, which, however, we found much decayed, and we had no + means of repairing her. We therefore took all the iron work out of her, + and, proceeding down the river fifteen miles, encamped near some + cottonwood trees, one of which was of the narrow-leafed species, and the + first of that kind we had remarked in ascending the river. + </p> + <p> + “Sergeant Ordway’s party, which had left the mouth of Madison River on the + thirteenth, had descended in safety to White Bear Island, where he arrived + on the nineteenth, and, after collecting the baggage, had left the falls + on the twenty-seventh in the white pirogue and five canoes, while Sergeant + Gass and Willard set out at the same time by land with the horses, and + thus fortunately met together.” + </p> + <p> + Sergeant Ordway’s party, it will be recollected, had left Captain Clark at + the three forks of the Missouri, to which they had come down the + Jefferson, and thence had passed down the Missouri to White Bear Islands, + and, making the portage, had joined the rest of the party just in time to + reinforce them. Game was now abundant the buffalo being in enormous herds; + and the bighorn were also numerous; the flesh of these animals was in fine + condition, resembling the best of mutton in flavor. The reunited party now + descended the river, the intention being to reach the mouth of the + Yellowstone as soon as possible, and there wait for Captain Clark, who, it + will be recalled, was to explore that stream and meet them at the point of + its junction with the Missouri. The voyage of Captain Lewis and his men + was without startling incident, except that Cruzatte accidentally shot the + captain, one day, while they were out hunting. The wound was through the + fleshy part of the left thigh, and for a time was very painful. As + Cruzatte was not in sight when the captain was hit, the latter naturally + thought he had been shot by Indians hiding in the thicket. He reached camp + as best he could, and, telling his men to arm themselves, he explained + that he had been shot by Indians. But when Cruzatte came into camp, mutual + explanations satisfied all hands that a misunderstanding had arisen and + that Cruzatte’s unlucky shot was accidental. As an example of the + experience of the party about this time, while they were on their way down + the Missouri, we take this extract from their journal:— + </p> + <p> + “We again saw great numbers of buffalo, elk, antelope, deer, and wolves; + also eagles and other birds, among which were geese and a solitary + pelican, neither of which can fly at present, as they are now shedding the + feathers of their wings. We also saw several bears, one of them the + largest, except one, we had ever seen; for he measured nine feet from the + nose to the extremity of the tail. During the night a violent storm came + on from the northeast with such torrents of rain that we had scarcely time + to unload the canoes before they filled with water. Having no shelter we + ourselves were completely wet to the skin, and the wind and cold air made + our situation very unpleasant.” + </p> + <p> + On the twelfth of August, the Lewis party met with two traders from + Illinois. These men were camped on the northeast side of the river; they + had left Illinois the previous summer, and had been coming up the Missouri + hunting and trapping. Captain Lewis learned from them that Captain Clark + was below; and later in that day the entire expedition was again united, + Captain Clark’s party being found at a point near where Little Knife Creek + enters the Missouri River. We must now take up the narrative of Captain + Clark and his adventures on the Yellowstone. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0025" id="link2HCH0025"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XXV — Adventures on the Yellowstone + </h2> + <p> + The route of Captain Clark from the point where he and Captain Lewis + divided their party, was rather more difficult than that pursued by the + Lewis detachment. But the Clark party was larger, being composed of twenty + men and Sacajawea and her baby. They were to travel up the main fork of + Clark’s River (sometimes called the Bitter Root), to Ross’s Hole, and then + strike over the great continental divide at that point by way of the pass + which he discovered and which was named for him; thence he was to strike + the headwaters of Wisdom River, a stream which this generation of men + knows by the vulgar name of Big Hole River; from this point he was to go + by the way of Willard’s Creek to Shoshonee Cove and the Two Forks of the + Jefferson, and thence down that stream to the Three Forks of the Missouri, + up the Gallatin, and over the divide to the Yellowstone and down that + river to its junction with the Missouri, where he was to join the party of + Captain Lewis. This is the itinerary that was exactly carried out. The + very first incident set forth in the journal is a celebration of + Independence Day, as follows:— + </p> + <p> + “Friday, July 4. Early in the morning three hunters were sent out. The + rest of the party having collected the horses and breakfasted, we + proceeded at seven o’clock up the valley, which is now contracted to the + width of from eight to ten miles, with a good proportion of pitch-pine, + though its low lands, as well as the bottoms of the creeks, are strewn + with large stones. We crossed five creeks of different sizes, but of great + depth, and so rapid that in passing the last several of the horses were + driven down the stream, and some of our baggage was wet. Near this river + we saw the tracks of two Indians, whom we supposed to be Shoshonees. + Having made sixteen miles, we halted at an hour for the purpose of doing + honor to the birthday of our early country’s independence. The festival + was not very splendid, for it consisted of a mush made of cows and a + saddle of venison; nor had we anything to tempt us to prolong it. We + therefore went on till at the distance of a mile we came to a very large + creek, which, like all those in the valley, had an immense rapidity of + descent; we therefore proceeded up for some distance, in order to select + the most convenient spot for fording. Even there, however, such was the + violence of the current that, though the water was not higher than the + bellies of the horses, the resistance made in passing caused the stream to + rise over their backs and loads. After passing the creek we inclined to + the left, and soon after struck the road which we had descended last year, + near the spot where we dined on the 7th of September (1805). Along this + road we continued on the west side of Clark’s River, till at the distance + of thirteen miles, during which we passed three more deep, large creeks, + we reached its western branch, where we camped; and having sent out two + hunters, despatched some men to examine the best ford across the west fork + of the river. The game to-day consisted of four deer; though we also saw a + herd of ibex, or bighorn.” + </p> + <p> + Two days later they were high up among the mountains, although the ascent + was not very steep. At that height they found the weather very cool, so + much so that on the morning of the sixth of July, after a cold night, they + had a heavy white frost on the ground. Setting out on that day, Captain + Clark crossed a ridge which proved to be the dividing line between the + Pacific and the Atlantic watershed. At the same time he passed from what + is now Missoula County, Montana, into the present county of Beaver Head, + in that State. “Beaver Head,” the reader will recollect, comes from a + natural elevation in that region resembling the head of a beaver. These + points will serve to fix in one’s mind the route of the first exploring + party that ever ventured into those wilds; descending the ridge on its + eastern slope, the explorers struck Glade Creek, one of the sources of the + stream then named Wisdom River, a branch of the Jefferson; and the + Jefferson is one of the tributaries of the mighty Missouri. Next day the + journal has this entry:— + </p> + <p> + “In the morning our horses were so much scattered that, although we sent + out hunters in every direction to range the country for six or eight + miles, nine of them could not be recovered. They were the most valuable of + all our horses, and so much attached to some of their companions that it + was difficult to separate them in the daytime. We therefore presumed that + they must have been stolen by some roving Indians; and accordingly left a + party of five men to continue the pursuit, while the rest went on to the + spot where the canoes had been deposited. We set out at ten o’clock and + pursued a course S. 56'0 E. across the valley, which we found to be + watered by four large creeks, with extensive low and miry bottoms; and + then reached (and crossed) Wisdom River, along the northeast side of which + we continued, till at the distance of sixteen miles we came to its three + branches. Near that place we stopped for dinner at a hot spring situated + in the open plain. The bed of the spring is about fifteen yards in + circumference, and composed of loose, hard, gritty stones, through which + the water boils in great quantities. It is slightly impregnated with + sulphur, and so hot that a piece of meat about the size of three fingers + was completely done in twenty-five minutes.” + </p> + <p> + Next day, July 8, the party reached the forks of the Jefferson River, + where they had cached their goods in August, 1805; they had now travelled + one hundred and sixty-four miles from Traveller’s-rest Creek to that + point. The men were out of tobacco, and as there was some among the goods + deposited in the cache they made haste to open the cache. They found + everything safe, although some of the articles were damp, and a hole had + been made in the bottom of one of the canoes. Here they were overtaken by + Sergeant Ordway and his party with the nine horses that had escaped during + the night of the seventh. + </p> + <p> + That night the weather was so cold that water froze in a basin to a + thickness of three-quarters of an inch, and the grass around the camp was + stiff with frost, although the month of July was nearly a week old. The + boats taken from the cache were now loaded, and the explorers were divided + into two bands, one to descend the river by boat and the other to take the + same general route on horseback, the objective point being the + Yellowstone. The story is taken tip here by the journal in these lines:— + </p> + <p> + “After breakfast (July 10) the two parties set out, those on shore + skirting the eastern side of Jefferson River, through Service (-berry) + Valley and over Rattlesnake Mountain, into a beautiful and extensive + country, known among the Indians by the name of Hahnahappapchah, or + Beaverhead Valley, from the number of those animals to be found in it, and + also from the point of land resembling the head of a beaver. It (the + valley) extends from Rattlesnake Mountain as low as Frazier’s Creek, and + is about fifty miles in length in direct line; while its width varies from + ten to fifteen miles, being watered in its whole course by Jefferson River + and six different creeks. The valley is open and fertile; besides the + innumerable quantities of beaver and otter with which its creeks are + supplied, the bushes of the low grounds are a favorite resort for deer; + while on the higher parts of the valley are seen scattered groups of + antelopes, and still further, on the steep sides of the mountains, are + observed many bighorns, which take refuge there from the wolves and bears. + At the distance of fifteen miles the two parties stopped to dine; when + Captain Clark, finding that the river became wider and deeper, and that + the canoes could advance more rapidly than the horses, determined to go + himself by water, leaving Sergeant Pryor with six men to bring on the + horses. In this way they resumed their journey after dinner, and camped on + the eastern side of the river, opposite the head of Three-thousand-mile + Island. The beaver were basking in great numbers along the shore; there + were also some young wild geese and ducks. The mosquitoes were very + troublesome during the day, but after sunset the weather became cool and + they disappeared.” + </p> + <p> + Three-thousand-mile Island was so named by the explorers, when they + ascended these streams, because it was at a point exactly three thousand + miles from the mouth of the Missouri. But no such island exists now; it + has probably been worn away by the swift-rushing current of the river. The + route of Captain Clark and his party, up to this time had been a few miles + west of Bannock City, Montana. As the captain was now to proceed by land + to the Yellowstone, again leaving the canoe party, it is well to recall + the fact that his route from the Three Forks of the Missouri to the + Yellowstone follows pretty nearly the present line of the railroad from + Gallatin City to Livingston, by the way of Bozeman Pass. Of this route the + journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “Throughout the whole, game was very abundant. They procured deer in the + low grounds; beaver and otter were seen in Gallatin River, and elk, + wolves, eagles, hawks, crows, and geese at different parts of the route. + The plain was intersected by several great roads leading to a gap in the + mountains, about twenty miles distant, in a direction E.N.E.; but the + Indian woman, who was acquainted with the country, recommended a gap more + to the southward. This course Captain Clark determined to pursue.” + </p> + <p> + Let us pause here to pay a little tribute to the memory of “the Indian + woman,” Sacajawea. She showed that she was very observant, had a good + memory, and was plucky and determined when in trouble. She was the guide + of the exploring party when she was in a region of country, as here, with + which she was familiar. She remembered localities which she had not seen + since her childhood. When their pirogue was upset by the carelessness of + her husband, it was she who saved the goods and helped to right the boat. + And, with her helpless infant clinging to her, she rode with the men, + guiding them with unerring skill through the mountain fastnesses and + lonely passes which the white men saw for the first time when their + salient features were pointed out to them by the intelligent and faithful + Sacajawea. The Indian woman has long since departed to the Happy + Hunting-Grounds of her fathers; only her name and story remain to us who + follow the footsteps of the brave pioneers of the western continent. But + posterity should not forget the services which were rendered to the white + race by Sacajawea. + </p> + <p> + On the fifteenth of July the party arrived at the ridge that divides the + Missouri and the Yellowstone, nine miles from which they reached the river + itself, about a mile and a half from the point where it issues from the + Rocky Mountains. Their journey down the valley of the Yellowstone was + devoid of special interest, but was accompanied with some hardships. For + example, the feet of the horses had become so sore with long travel over a + stony trail that it was necessary to shoe them with raw buffalo hide. Rain + fell frequently and copiously; and often, sheltered at night only by + buffalo hides, they rose in the morning drenched to the skin. The party + could not follow the course of the river very closely, but were compelled + often to cross hills that came down to the bank, making the trail + impassable for horses. Here is the story of July 18 and 19:— + </p> + <p> + “Gibson, one of the party, was so badly hurt by falling on a sharp point + of wood that he was unable to sit on his horse, and they were obliged to + form a sort of litter for him, so that he could lie nearly at full length. + The wound became so painful, however, after proceeding a short distance, + that he could not bear the motion, and they left him with two men, while + Captain Clark went to search for timber large enough to form canoes. He + succeeded in finding some trees of sufficient size for small canoes, two + of which he determined to construct, and by lashing them together hoped to + make them answer the purpose of conveying the party down the river, while + a few of his men should conduct the horses to the Mandans. All hands, + therefore, were set busily to work, and they were employed in this labor + for several days. In the mean time no less than twenty-four of their + horses were missing, and they strongly suspected had been stolen by the + Indians, for they were unable to find them, notwithstanding they made the + most diligent search.” + </p> + <p> + “July 23. A piece of a robe and a moccasin,” says the journal, “were + discovered this morning not far from the camp. The moccasin was worn out + in the sole, and yet wet, and had every appearance of having been left but + a few hours before. This was conclusive that the Indians had taken our + horses, and were still prowling about for the remainder, which fortunately + escaped last night by being in a small prairie surrounded by thick timber. + At length Labiche, one of our best trackers, returned from a very wide + circuit, and informed Captain Clark that he had traced the horses bending + their course rather down the river towards the open plains, and from their + tracks, must have been going very rapidly. All hopes of recovering them + were now abandoned. Nor were the Indians the only plunderers around our + camp; for in the night the wolves or dogs stole the greater part of the + dried meat from the scaffold. The wolves, which constantly attend the + buffalo, were here in great numbers, as this seemed to be the commencement + of the buffalo country. . . . + </p> + <p> + “At noon the two canoes were finished. They were twenty-eight feet long, + sixteen or eighteen inches deep, and from sixteen to twenty-four inches + wide; and, having lashed them together, everything was ready for setting + out the next day, Gibson having now recovered. Sergeant Pryor was + directed, with Shannon and Windsor, to take the remaining horses to the + Mandans, and if he should find that Mr. Henry (a trading-post agent) was + on the Assiniboin River, to go thither and deliver him a letter, the + object of which was to prevail on the most distinguished chiefs of the + Sioux to accompany him to Washington.” + </p> + <p> + On a large island near the mouth of a creek now known as Canyon Creek, the + party landed to explore an extensive Indian lodge which seems to have been + built for councils, rather than for a place of residence. The lodge was + shaped like a cone, sixty feet in diameter at the base and tapering + towards the top. The poles of which it was constructed were forty-five + feet long. The interior was strangely decorated, the tops of the poles + being ornamented with eagles’ feathers, and from the centre hung a stuffed + buffalo-hide. A buffalo’s head and other trophies of the chase were + disposed about the wigwam. The valley, as the explorers descended the + river, was very picturesque and wonderful. On the north side the cliffs + were wild and romantic, and these were soon succeeded by rugged hills, and + these, in turn, by open plains on which were descried herds of buffalo, + elk, and wolves. On the twenty-seventh of July, having reached the + Bighorn, one of the largest tributaries of the Yellowstone, the party have + this entry in their journal:— + </p> + <p> + “They again set out very early, and on leaving the Bighorn took a last + look at the Rocky Mountains, which had been constantly in view from the + first of May. The (Yellowstone) river now widens to the extent of from + four hundred to six hundred yards; it is much divided by islands and + sandbars; its banks are generally low and falling in; it thus resembles + the Missouri in many particulars, but its islands are more numerous, its + waters less muddy, and the current is more rapid. The water is of a + yellowish-white, and the round stones, which form the bars above the + Bighorn, have given place to gravel. On the left side the river runs under + cliffs of light, soft, gritty stone, varying in height from seventy to one + hundred feet, behind which are level and extensive plains. On the right + side of the river are low extensive bottoms, bordered with cottonwood, + various species of willow, rose-bushes, grapevines, redberry or + buffalo-grease bushes, and a species of sumach; to these succeed high + grounds supplied with pine, and still further on are level plains. + Throughout the country are vast quantities of buffalo, which, as this is + the running-season, keep up a continued bellowing. Large herds of elk also + are lying on every point, so gentle that they may be approached within + twenty paces without being alarmed. Several beaver were seen in the course + of the day; indeed, there is a greater appearance of those animals than + there was above the Bighorn. Deer, however, are by no means abundant, and + antelopes, as well as bighorns, are scarce.” + </p> + <p> + It is noticeable that the explorers, all along their route, gave to + streams, rocks, mountains, and other natural features of the country many + names that appear to us meaningless and trifling. It would appear that + they used up all the big names, such as Jefferson, Gallatin, Philosophy, + Philanthropy, and the like, and were compelled to use, first, the names of + their own party, and then such titles as were suggested by trifling + incidents. For example, when they reached a difficult shoal on the + Yellowstone River, they named that Buffalo Shoal because they found a + buffalo on it; and Buffalo Shoal it remains unto this day. In like manner, + when they reached a dangerous rapid, twenty miles below that point, they + saw a bear standing on a rock in the stream; and Bear Rapid the place was + and is named. Bear and buffalo were pretty numerous all the way along that + part of the river which they navigated in July. They had now rejoined the + boats, and on the last day of July, when camped at a point two miles above + Wolf Rapid (so called from seeing a wolf there), the buffalo were + continually prowling about the camp at night, exciting much alarm lest + they should trample on the boats and ruin them. In those days, buffalo + were so numerous that they were a nuisance to travellers; and they were so + free from fear of man that they were too familiar with the camps and + equipage. On the first of August we find this entry in the journal of the + party:— + </p> + <p> + “The buffalo now appear in vast numbers. A herd happened to be on their + way across the river. Such was the multitude of these animals that, though + the river, including an island over which they passed, was a mile wide, + the herd stretched, as thickly as they could swim, from one side to the + other, and the party was obliged to stop for an hour. They consoled + themselves for the delay by killing four of the herd; and then having + proceeded for the distance of forty-five miles (in all to-day) to an + island, below which two other herds of buffalo, as numerous as the first, + soon after crossed the river.” + </p> + <p> + Again, on the very next day, we find this entry:— + </p> + <p> + “The river was now about a mile wide, less rapid, and more divided by + islands, and bars of sand and mud, than heretofore; the low grounds, too, + were more extensive, and contained a greater quantity of cottonwood, ash, + and willows. On the northwest was a low, level plain, and on the southeast + some rugged hills, on which we saw, without being able to approach them, + some bighorns. Buffalo and elk, as well as their pursuers, the wolves, + were in great numbers. On each side of the river there were several dry + beds of streams, but the only one of any considerable size was one to + which they gave the name of Ibex River, on the right, about thirty yards + wide, and sixteen miles from their encampment of the preceding night. The + bear, which had given them so much trouble at the head of the Missouri, + they found equally fierce here. One of these animals, which was on a + sand-bar as the boat passed, raised himself on his hind feet, and after + looking at the party for a moment, plunged in and swam towards them; but, + after receiving three balls in the body, he turned and made for the shore. + Towards evening they saw another enter the water to swim across; when + Captain Clark directed the boat towards the shore, and just as the animal + landed shot it in the head. It proved to be the largest female they had + ever seen, and was so old that its tusks were worn quite smooth. The boats + escaped with difficulty between two herds of buffalo that were crossing + the river, and came near being again detained by them. Among the elk of + this neighborhood they saw an unusual number of males, while higher up the + herds consisted chiefly of females.” + </p> + <p> + It is almost incredible that these wild animals should have been so nearly + exterminated by hunters and other rovers of the plains, very soon after + travel set in across the continent. The writer of these lines, who crossed + the plains to California so lately as 1856, saw buffalo killed for the + sake of their tongues, or to give rifle practice to the wayfarers. After + the overland railroad was opened, passengers shot buffalo from the + car-windows, well knowing that they could not get their game, even if they + should kill as they flew by a herd. There are no buffalo nor elk where + millions once roamed almost unmolested. + </p> + <p> + Early in the afternoon of August 3, the party reached the junction of the + Yellowstone and the Missouri, and camped on the same spot where they had + pitched their tents on the 26th of April, 1805. They were nearing the end + of their long journey. + </p> + <p> + But their troubles thickened as they drew near the close of their many + miles of travel. The journal for August 4 has this record:— + </p> + <p> + “The camp became absolutely uninhabitable in consequence of the multitude + of mosquitoes; the men could not work in preparing skins for clothing, nor + hunt in the timbered low grounds; there was no mode of escape, except by + going on the sand-bars in the river, where, if the wind should blow, the + insects do not venture; but when there is no wind, and particularly at + night, when the men have no covering except their worn-out blankets, the + pain they suffer is scarcely to be endured. There was also a want of meat, + for no buffalo were to be found; and though elk are very abundant, yet + their fat and flesh is more difficult to dry in the sun, and is also much + more easily spoiled than the meat or fat of either deer or buffalo. + </p> + <p> + “Captain Clark therefore determined to go on to some spot which should be + free from mosquitoes and furnish more game. Having written a note to + Captain Lewis, to inform him of his intention, and stuck it on a pole at + the confluence of the two rivers, he loaded the canoes at five in the + afternoon, proceeded down the river to the second point, and camped on a + sand-bar; but here the mosquitoes seemed to be even more numerous than + above. The face of the Indian child was considerably puffed up and swollen + with their bites; the men could procure scarcely any sleep during the + night, and the insects continued to harass them next morning, as they + proceeded. On one occasion Captain Clark went on shore and ascended a hill + after one of the bighorns; but the mosquitoes were in such multitudes that + he could not keep them from the barrel of his rifle long enough to take + aim. About ten o’clock, however, a light breeze sprung up from the + northwest, and dispersed them in some degree. Captain Clark then landed on + a sand-bar, intending to wait for Captain Lewis, and went out to hunt. But + not finding any buffalo, he again proceeded in the afternoon; and having + killed a large white bear, camped under a high bluff exposed to a light + breeze from the southwest, which blew away the mosquitoes. About eleven + o’clock, however, the wind became very high and a storm of rain came on, + which lasted for two hours, accompanied with sharp lightning and loud + peals of thunder. + </p> + <p> + “The party rose, next day, very wet, and proceeded to a sand-bar below the + entrance of Whiteearth River. Just above this place the Indians, + apparently within seven, or eight days past, had been digging a root which + they employ in making a kind of soup. Having fixed their tents, the men + were employed in dressing skins and hunting. They shot a number of deer; + but only two of them were fat, owing probably to the great quantities of + mosquitoes which annoy them while feeding.” + </p> + <p> + On the eleventh of August the Clark party came up with the two white + traders from Illinois, of whom we have already made mention as having been + met by the Lewis party on their way down the river. These were the first + white men they had seen (except themselves) since they parted with the + three French trappers, near the Little Missouri, in April, 1805, From them + the wayworn voyagers received the latest news from the United States. From + them they also had some unfavorable tidings. The journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “These men had met the boat which we had despatched from Fort Mandan, on + board of which, they were told, was a Ricara chief on his way to + Washington; and also another party of Yankton chiefs, accompanying Mr. + Durion on a visit of the same kind. We were sorry to learn that the + Mandans and Minnetarees were at war with the Ricaras, and had killed two + of them. The Assiniboins too are at war with the Mandans. They have, in + consequence, prohibited the Northwestern Company from trading to the + Missouri, and even killed two of their traders near Mouse River; they are + now lying in wait for Mr. McKenzie of the Northwestern Company, who has + been for a long time among the Minnetarees. These appearances are rather + unfavorable to our project of carrying some of the chiefs to the United + States; but we still hope that, by effecting a peace between the Mandans, + Minnetarees, and Ricaras, the views of our Government may be + accomplished.” + </p> + <p> + Next day, August 12, 1806, the party, slowly descending the river, were + overjoyed to see below them the little flotilla of Captain Lewis and his + men. But they were alarmed when they discovered that Lewis was not with + them; as the boats landed at the shore, the captain was not to be seen. + Captain Clark’s party, on coming up with their friends, were told that + Lewis was lying in the pirogue, having been accidentally wounded. The + whole party were now happily reunited, and they were soon joined by the + two Illinois traders whom they had met up the river; these men wished to + accompany the expedition down the river as far as the Mandan nation, for + the purpose of trading; they were more secure with a large party of white + men than they would be if left to themselves. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2HCH0026" id="link2HCH0026"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + Chapter XXVI — The End of a Long Journey + </h2> + <p> + The reunited party now set out for the lower river and proceeded rapidly + down-stream, favored with a good wind. They made eighty-six miles on the + first day, passing the mouth of the Little Missouri early in the forenoon, + and camping at Miry River, on the northeast side of the Missouri. On the + second day they arrived at the principal village of the Minnetarees, where + they were received with cordial welcome by their old friends. The + explorers fired their blunderbuss several times by way of salute, and the + Indian chiefs expressed their satisfaction at the safe return of the white + men. One of the Minnetaree chiefs, however, wept bitterly at the sight of + the whites, and it was explained by his friends that their coming reminded + him of the death of his son, who had been lately killed by the Blackfoot + Indians. + </p> + <p> + Arriving at the village of the Mandans, of which Black Cat was the chief, + a council was called, and the chiefs of the expedition endeavored to + persuade some of the leading men of the tribe to accompany them to + Washington to see “the Great Father.” Black Cat expressed his strong + desire to visit the United States and see the Great Father, but he was + afraid of the Sioux, their ancient enemies, through whose territory they + must pass on their way down to the white man’s country. This chief, it + will be recollected, was given a flag and a medal by the two captains when + they passed up the river on their way to the Rocky Mountains and the + Pacific coast. The flag was now brought on and hoisted on the lodge of + Black Cat. On that occasion, also, the commanders of the expedition had + given the Indians a number of useful articles, among them being a portable + corn-mill. But the Indians had other uses for metal, and they had taken + the mill apart and used the iron for the purpose of making barbs for their + arrows. From the Omahas, who were located here, the white men received a + present of as much corn as three men could carry. Black Cat also gave them + a dozen bushels of corn. + </p> + <p> + Their days of starvation and famine were over. They were next visited by + Le Borgne, better known as One-eye, the head chief of all the Minnetarees, + to whom Lewis and Clark also extended an invitation to go to Washington to + see the Great Father. The journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “Le Borgne began by declaring that he much desired to visit his Great + Father, but that the Sioux would certainly kill any of the Mandans who + should attempt to go down the river. They were bad people, and would not + listen to any advice. When he saw us last, we had told him that we had + made peace with all the nations below; yet the Sioux had since killed + eight of his tribe, and stolen a number of their horses. The Ricaras too + had stolen their horses, and in the contest his people had killed two of + the Ricaras. Yet in spite of these dispositions he had always had his ears + open to our counsels, and had actually made a peace with the Chayennes and + the Indians of the Rocky Mountains. He concluded by saying, that however + disposed they were to visit the United States, the fear of the Sioux would + prevent them from going with us.” + </p> + <p> + The truth was that One-eye had no notion of going to Washington; he was + afraid of nobody, and his plea of possible danger among the Sioux was mere + nonsense to deceive the white men. Captain Clark visited the village of + Black Cat, and that worthy savage made the same excuse that Le Borgne + (One-eye) had already put forth; he was afraid of the Sioux. The journal + adds:— + </p> + <p> + “Captain Clark then spoke to the chiefs and warriors of the village. He + told them of his anxiety that some of them should see their Great Father, + hear his good words, and receive his gifts; and requested them to fix on + some confidential chief who might accompany us. To this they made the same + objections as before; till at length a young man offered to go, and the + warriors all assented to it. But the character of this man was known to be + bad; and one of the party with Captain Clark informed him that at the + moment he (this Indian) had in his possession a knife which he had stolen. + Captain Clark therefore told the chief of this theft, and ordered the + knife to be given up. This was done with a poor apology for having it in + his possession, and Captain Clark then reproached the chiefs for wishing + to send such a fellow to see and hear so distinguished a person as their + Great Father. They all hung down their heads for some time, till Black Cat + apologized by saying that the danger was such that they were afraid of + sending any one of their chiefs, as they considered his loss almost + inevitable.” + </p> + <p> + Although there was so much reluctance on the part of the Indians to leave + their roving life, even for a few months, there were some white men among + the explorers who were willing to give up their home in “the States.” The + journal says:— + </p> + <p> + “In the evening Colter applied to us for permission to join the two + trappers who had accompanied us, and who now proposed an expedition up the + river, in which they were to find traps and to give him a share of the + profits. The offer was a very advantageous one; and as he had always + performed his duty, and his services could be dispensed with, we consented + to his going upon condition that none of the rest were to ask or expect a + similar indulgence. To this they all cheerfully assented, saying that they + wished Colter every success, and would not apply for liberty to separate + before we reached St. Louis. We therefore supplied him, as did his + comrades also, with powder and lead, and a variety of articles which might + be useful to him, and he left us the next day. The example of this man + shows how easily men may be weaned from the habits of civilized life to + the ruder, though scarcely less fascinating, manners of the woods. This + hunter had now been absent for many years from the frontiers, and might + naturally be presumed to have some anxiety, or at least curiosity, to + return to his friends and his country; yet, just at the moment when he was + approaching the frontiers, he was tempted by a hunting scheme to give up + all those delightful prospects, and to go back without the least + reluctance to the solitude of the wilds.” + </p> + <p> + The two captains learned here that the Minnetarees had sent out a + war-party against the Shoshonees, very soon after the white men’s + expedition had left for the Rocky Mountains, notwithstanding their promise + to keep peace with the surrounding tribes. They had also sent a war-party + against the Ricaras, two of whom they killed. Accordingly, the white + chiefs had a powwow with the Indian chiefs, at which the journal says + these incidents occurred:— + </p> + <p> + “We took this opportunity of endeavoring to engage Le Borgne in our + interests by a present of the swivel, which is no longer serviceable, as + it cannot be discharged from our largest pirogue. It was loaded; and the + chiefs being formed into a circle round it, Captain Clark addressed them + with great ceremony. He said that he had listened with much attention to + what had yesterday been declared by Le Borgne, whom he believed to be + sincere, and then reproached them with their disregard of our counsels, + and their wars on the Shoshonees and Ricaras. Little Cherry, the old + Minnetaree chief, answered that they had long stayed at home and listened + to our advice, but at last went to war against the Sioux because their + horses had been stolen and their companions killed; and that in an + expedition against those people they met the Ricaras, who were on their + way to strike them, and a battle ensued. But in future he said they would + attend to our words and live at peace. Le Borgne added that his ears would + always be open to the words of his Good Father, and shut against bad + counsel. Captain Clark then presented to Le Borgne the swivel, which he + told him had announced the words of his Great Father to all the nations we + had seen, and which, whenever it was fired, should recall those which we + had delivered to him. The gun was discharged, and Le Borgne had it + conveyed in great pomp to his village. The council then adjourned.” + </p> + <p> + After much diplomacy and underhand scheming, one of the Mandan chiefs, Big + White, agreed to go to Washington with the expedition. But none of the + Minnetarees could be prevailed upon to leave their tribe, even for a + journey to the Great Father, of whose power and might so much had been + told them. The journal, narrating this fact, says further:— + </p> + <p> + “The principal chiefs of the Minnetarees now came down to bid us farewell, + as none of them could be prevailed on to go with us. This circumstance + induced our interpreter, Chaboneau, to remain here with his wife and + child, as he could no longer be of use to us, and, although we offered to + take him with us to the United States, he declined, saying that there he + had no acquaintance, and no chance of making a livelihood, and preferred + remaining among the Indians. This man had been very serviceable to us, and + his wife was particularly useful among the Shoshonees: indeed, she had + borne with a patience truly admirable the fatigues of so long a route, + encumbered with the charge of an infant, who was then only nineteen months + old. We therefore paid him his wages, amounting to five hundred dollars + and thirty-three cents, including the price of a horse and a lodge + purchased of him, and soon afterward dropped down to the village of Big + White, attended on shore by all the Indian chiefs, who had come to take + leave of him. + </p> + <p> + “We found him surrounded by his friends, who sat in a circle smoking, + while the women were crying. He immediately sent his wife and son, with + their baggage, on board, accompanied by the interpreter and his wife, and + two children; and then, after distributing among his friends some powder + and ball which we had given him, and smoking a pipe, he went with us to + the river side. The whole village crowded about us, and many of the people + wept aloud at the departure of their chief.” + </p> + <p> + Once more embarked, the party soon reached Fort Mandan, where they had + wintered in 1804. They found very little of their old stronghold left + except a few pickets and one of the houses. The rest had been destroyed by + an accidental fire. Eighteen miles below, they camped near an old Ricara + village, and next day, as they were about to resume their voyage, a + brother of Big White, whose camp was farther inland, came running down to + the beach to bid Big White farewell. The parting of the two brothers was + very affectionate, and the elder gave the younger a pair of leggings as a + farewell present. The Indian chief was satisfied with his treatment by the + whites, and interested himself to tell them traditions of localities which + they passed. August 20 they were below the mouth of Cannon-ball River, and + were in the country occupied and claimed by the Sioux. Here, if anywhere, + they must be prepared for attacks from hostile Indians. At this point, the + journal sets forth this interesting observation:— + </p> + <p> + “Since we passed in 1804, a very obvious change has taken place in the + current and appearance of the Missouri. In places where at that time there + were sandbars, the current of the river now passes, and the former channel + of the river is in turn a bank of sand. Sandbars then naked are now + covered with willows several feet high; the entrance of some of the creeks + and rivers has changed in consequence of the quantity of mud thrown into + them; and in some of the bottoms are layers of mud eight inches in depth.” + </p> + <p> + The streams that flow into the Missouri and Mississippi from the westward + are notoriously fickle and changeable. Within a very few years, some of + them have changed their course so that farms are divided into two parts, + or are nearly wiped out by the wandering streams. In at least one + instance, artful men have tried to steal part of a State by changing the + boundary line along the bed of the river, making the stream flow many + miles across a tract around which it formerly meandered. On this boundary + line between the Sioux and their upper neighbors, the party met a band of + Cheyennes and another of Ricaras, or Arikaras. They held a palaver with + these Indians and reproached the Ricara chief, who was called Gray-eyes, + with having engaged in hostilities with the Sioux, notwithstanding the + promises made when the white men were here before. To this Gray-eyes made + an animated reply:— + </p> + <p> + “He declared that the Ricaras were willing to follow the counsels we had + given them, but a few of their bad young men would not live in peace, but + had joined the Sioux and thus embroiled them with the Mandans. These young + men had, however, been driven out of the villages, and as the Ricaras were + now separated from the Sioux, who were a bad people and the cause of all + their misfortunes, they now desired to be at peace with the Mandans, and + would receive them with kindness and friendship. Several of the chiefs, he + said, were desirous of visiting their Great Father; but as the chief who + went to the United States last summer had not returned, and they had some + fears for his safety, on account of the Sioux, they did not wish to leave + home until they heard of him. With regard to himself, he would continue + with his nation, to see that they followed our advice. . . . . . . . . . + </p> + <p> + “After smoking for some time, Captain Clark gave a small medal to the + Chayenne chief, and explained at the same time the meaning of it. He + seemed alarmed at this present, and sent for a robe and a quantity of + buffalo-meat, which he gave to Captain Clark, and requested him to take + back the medal; for he knew that all white people were ‘medicine,’ and was + afraid of the medal, or of anything else which the white people gave to + the Indians. Captain Clark then repeated his intention in giving the + medal, which was the medicine his great father had directed him to deliver + to all chiefs who listened to his word and followed his counsels; and that + as he (the chief) had done so, the medal was given as a proof that we + believed him sincere. He now appeared satisfied and received the medal, in + return for which he gave double the quantity of buffalo-meat he had + offered before. He seemed now quite reconciled to the whites, and + requested that some traders might be sent among the Chayennes, who lived, + he said, in a country full of beaver, but did not understand well how to + catch them, and were discouraged from it by having no sale for them when + caught. Captain Clark promised that they should be soon supplied with + goods and taught the best mode of catching beaver. + </p> + <p> + “Big White, the chief of the Mandans, now addressed them at some length, + explaining the pacific intentions of his nation; the Chayennes observed + that both the Ricaras and Mandans seemed to be in fault; but at the end of + the council the Mandan chief was treated with great civility, and the + greatest harmony prevailed among them. The great chief, however, informed + us that none of the Ricaras could be prevailed on to go with us till the + return of the other chief; and that the Chayennes were a wild people, + afraid to go. He invited Captain Clark to his house, and gave him two + carrots of tobacco, two beaver-skins, and a trencher of boiled corn and + beans. It is the custom of all the nations on the Missouri to offer to + every white man food and refreshment when he first enters their tents.” + </p> + <p> + Resuming their voyage, the party reached Tyler’s River, where they camped, + on the twenty-seventh of August. This stream is now known as Medicine + River, from Medicine Hill, a conspicuous landmark rising at a little + distance from the Missouri. The voyagers were now near the lower portion + of what is now known as South Dakota, and they camped in territory + embraced in the county of Presho. Here they were forced to send out their + hunters; their stock of meat was nearly exhausted. The hunters returned + empty-handed. + </p> + <p> + “After a hunt of three hours they reported that no game was to be found in + the bottoms, the grass having been laid flat by the immense number of + buffaloes which recently passed over it; and, that they saw only a few + buffalo bulls, which they did not kill, as they were quite unfit for use. + Near this place we observed, however, the first signs of the wild turkey; + not long afterward we landed in the Big Bend, and killed a fine fat elk, + on which we feasted. Toward night we heard the bellowing of buffalo bulls + on the lower island of the Big Bend. We pursued this agreeable sound, and + after killing some of the cows, camped on the island, forty-five miles + from the camp of last night.” . . . . . . . . . + </p> + <p> + “Setting out at ten o’clock the next morning, at a short distance they + passed the mouth of White River, the water of which was nearly of the + color of milk. As they were much occupied with hunting, they made but + twenty miles. The buffalo,” says the journal, “were now so numerous, that + from an eminence we discovered more than we had ever seen before at one + time; and though it was impossible accurately to calculate their number, + they darkened the whole plain, and could not have been, we were convinced, + less than twenty thousand. With regard to game in general, we have + observed that wild animals are usually found in the greatest numbers in + the country lying between two nations at war.” + </p> + <p> + They were now well into the Sioux territory, and on the thirtieth of + August they had an encounter with a party of Indians. About twenty persons + were seen on the west side of the river, proceeding along a height + opposite the voyagers. Just as these were observed, another band, + numbering eighty or ninety, came out of the woods nearer the shore. As + they had a hostile appearance, the party in the canoes made preparations + to receive them; they were suspected to be Teton-Sioux, although they + might be Yanktons, Pawnees, or Omahas. The journal adds:— + </p> + <p> + “In order, however, to ascertain who they were, without risk to the party, + Captain Clark crossed, with three persons who could speak different Indian + languages, to a sand-bar near the opposite side, in hopes of conversing + with them. Eight young men soon met him on the sand-bar, but none of them + could understand either the Pawnee or Maha interpreter. They were then + addressed in the Sioux language, and answered that they were Tetons, of + the band headed by Black Buffaloe, Tahtackasabah. This was the same who + had attempted to stop us in 1804; and being now less anxious about + offending so mischievous a tribe, Captain Clark told them that they had + been deaf to our councils, had ill-treated us two years ago, and had + abused all the whites who had since visited them. He believed them, he + added, to be bad people, and they must therefore return to their + companions; for if they crossed over to our camp we would put them to + death. They asked for some corn, which Captain Clark refused; they then + requested permission to come and visit our camp, but he ordered them back + to their own people. He then returned, and all our arms were prepared, in + case of an attack; but when the Indians reached their comrades, and + informed their chiefs of our intention, they all set out on their way to + their own camp; though some of them halted on a rising ground and abused + us very copiously, threatening to kill us if we came across. We took no + notice of this for some time, till the return of three of our hunters, + whom we were afraid the Indians might have met. But as soon as they joined + us we embarked; and to see what the Indians would attempt, steered near + their side of the river. At this the party on the hill seemed agitated; + some set out for their camp, others walked about, and one man walked + toward the boats and invited us to land. As he came near, we recognized + him to be the same who had accompanied us for two days in 1804, and was + considered a friend of the whites. + </p> + <p> + “Unwilling, however, to have any intercourse with these people, we + declined his invitation, upon which he returned to the hill, and struck + the earth three times with his gun, a great oath among the Indians, who + consider swearing by the earth as one of the most solemn forms of + imprecation. At the distance of six miles we stopped on a bleak sand-bar, + where we thought ourselves secure from any attack during the night, and + also safe from the mosquitoes. We had made but twenty-two miles, but in + the course of the day had killed a mule-deer, an animal we were very + anxious to obtain. About eleven in the evening the wind shifted to the + northwest, and it began to rain, accompanied by thunder and lightning, + after which the wind changed to the southwest, and blew with such violence + that we were obliged to hold fast the canoes, for fear of their being + driven from the sand-bar: still, the cables of two of them broke, and two + others were blown quite across the river; nor was it till two o’clock that + the whole party were reassembled, waiting in the rain for daylight.” + </p> + <p> + The party now began to meet white men in small detachments coming up the + river. On the third of September, for example, they met the first men who + were able to give them news of home. This party was commanded by a Mr. + James Airs (or Ayres), from Mackinaw, by the way of Prairie du Chien and + St. Louis. He had two canoes loaded with merchandise which he was taking + up the river to trade with the Indians. Among the items of news gathered + from him, according to the private journal of one of the Lewis and Clark + party, was that General James Wilkinson was now Governor of Louisiana + Territory, and was stationed at St. Louis. This is the Wilkinson who + fought in the American Revolution, and was subsequently to this time + accused of accepting bribes from Spain and of complicity with Aaron Burr + in his treasonable schemes. Another item was to this effect: “Mr. Burr + & Genl. Hambleton fought a Duel, the latter was killed.” This brief + statement refers to the unhappy duel between Aaron Burr and Alexander + Hamilton, at Weehawken, New Jersey, July 11, 1804. This interesting entry + shows with what feelings the long-absent explorers met Mr. Airs:— + </p> + <p> + “After so long an interval, the sight of anyone who could give us + information of our country was peculiarly delightful, and much of the + night was spent in making inquiries into what had occurred during our + absence. We found Mr. Airs a very friendly and liberal gentleman; when we + proposed to him to purchase a small quantity of tobacco, to be paid for in + St. Louis, he very readily furnished every man of the party with as much + as he could use during the rest of the voyage, and insisted on our + accepting a barrel of flour. This last we found very agreeable, although + we have still a little flour which we had deposited at the mouth of + Maria’s River. We could give in return only about six bushels of corn, + which was all that we could spare.” + </p> + <p> + Three days later, the voyagers met a trading-boat belonging to Mr. + Augustus Chouteau, the founder of a famous trading-house in St. Louis. + From this party the captains procured a gallon of whiskey, and with this + they served out a dram to each of their men. “This,” says the journal, “is + the first spirituous liquor any of them have tasted since the Fourth of + July, 1805.” From this time forward, the returning explorers met trading + parties nearly every day; and this showed that trade was following the + flag far up into the hitherto unexplored regions of the American + continent. + </p> + <p> + The explorers, hungry for news from home, would have tarried and talked + longer with their new-found friends, but they were anxious to get down to + civilization once more. Their journal also says: “The Indians, + particularly the squaws and children, are weary of the long journey, and + we are desirous of seeing our country and friends.” This quotation from + the journal gives us our first intimation that any Indians accompanied Big + White to the United States. He appears to have had a small retinue of + followers men, women, and children—with him. + </p> + <p> + Below the mouth of the Platte, September 12, Lewis and Clark met + Gravelines, the interpreter who was sent to Washington from Fort Mandan, + in 1805, with despatches, natural history specimens, and a Ricara chief. + The chief had unfortunately died in Washington, and Gravelines was now on + his way to the Ricaras with a speech from President Jefferson and the + presents that had been given to the chief. He also had instructions to + teach the Ricaras in agriculture. + </p> + <p> + It is interesting to note how that the explorers, now tolerably well + acquainted with the Indian character since their long experience with the + red men, had adopted a very different bearing from that which they had + when coming up the river, in 1805. Here is an extract from their journal, + September 14:— + </p> + <p> + “We resumed our journey. This being a part of the river to which the + Kansas resort, in order to rob the boats of traders, we held ourselves in + readiness to fire upon any Indians who should offer us the slightest + indignity; as we no longer needed their friendship, and found that a tone + of firmness and decision is the best possible method of making proper + impressions on these freebooters. However, we did not encounter any of + them; but just below the old Kansas village met three trading-boats from + St. Louis, on their way to the Yanktons and Mahas.” + </p> + <p> + Thirty miles below the island of Little Osage village, the party met + Captain McClellan, formerly of the United States army. He informed Captain + Lewis that the party had been given up for lost, people generally + believing that they would never again be heard from; but, according to the + journal of one of the party, “The President of the U. States yet had hopes + of us.” The last news received in “the U. States” from the explorers was + that sent from Fort Mandan, by Gravelines, in 1805. + </p> + <p> + Scarcity of provisions once more disturbed the party, so that, on the + eighteenth of September, the journal sets forth the fact that game was + very scarce and nothing was seen by the hunters but a bear and three + turkeys, which they were unable to reach. The men, however, were perfectly + satisfied, although they were allowed only one biscuit per day. An + abundance of pawpaws growing along the banks sufficed as nutritious food. + The pawpaw is native to many of the Western States of the Republic. It is + a fruit three or four inches long, growing on a small tree, or bush. The + fruit is sweet and juicy and has several bean-shaped seeds embedded in the + pulp. The voyagers now began to see signs of civilization on the banks of + the river. Near the mouth of the Gasconade, above St. Louis, they beheld + cows grazing in the meadows. The journal says: “The whole party almost + involuntarily raised a shout of joy at seeing this image of civilization + and domestic life.” Men who have been wandering in pathless wildernesses, + remote from man, for more than two years, might well be moved by the + sights of a homelike farm and a settled life. Soon after this the party + reached the little French village of La Charette which they saluted with + four guns and three hearty cheers. Then, according to the journal, they + landed and were warmly received by the people, who had long since + abandoned all hope of ever seeing these far-voyaging adventurers return. + Here are the last entries in the journal that has been our guide so long + across the continent and back again to the haunts of men:— + </p> + <p> + “Sunday, September 21st, we proceeded; and as several settlements have + been made during our absence, we were refreshed with the sight of men and + cattle along the banks. We also passed twelve canoes of Kickapoo Indians, + going on a hunting-excursion. At length, after coming forty-eight miles, + we saluted, with heartfelt satisfaction, the village of St. Charles, and + on landing were treated with the greatest hospitality and kindness by all + the inhabitants of that place. Their civility detained us till ten o’clock + the next morning. + </p> + <p> + “September 22d, when the rain having ceased, we set out for Coldwater + Creek, about three miles from the mouth of the Missouri, where we found a + cantonment of troops of the United States, with whom we passed the day; + and then, + </p> + <p> + “September 23d, descended to the Mississippi, and round to St. Louis, + where we arrived at twelve o’clock; and having fired a salute, went on + shore and received the heartiest and most hospitable welcome from the + whole village.” + </p> + <p> + The two captains were very busily employed, as soon as they arrived in St. + Louis, with writing letters to their friends and to the officers of the + government who were concerned to know of their safe return to + civilization. Captain Lewis’ letter to the President of the United States, + announcing his arrival, was dated Sept. 23, 1806. President Jefferson’s + reply was dated October 20 of that year. In his letter the President + expressed his “unspeakable joy” at the safe return of the expedition. He + said that the unknown scenes in which they had been engaged and the length + of time during which no tidings had been received from them “had begun to + be felt awfully.” It may seem strange to modern readers familiar with the + means for rapid travel and communication that no news from the explorers, + later than that which they sent from the Mandan country, was received in + the United States until their return, two years and four months later. But + mail facilities were very scanty in those far-off days, even in the + settled portions of the Mississippi Valley, and few traders had then + penetrated to those portions of the Lower Missouri that had just been + travelled by Lewis and Clark. As we have seen, white men were regarded + with awe and curiosity by the natives of the regions which the explorers + traversed in their long absence. The first post-office in what is now the + great city of St. Louis was not established until 1808; mails between the + Atlantic seaboard and that “village” required six weeks to pass either + way. + </p> + <p> + The two captains went to Washington early in the year following their + arrival in St. Louis. There is extant a letter from Captain Lewis, dated + at Washington, Feb. 11, 1807. Congress was then in session, and, agreeably + to the promises that had been held out to the explorers, the Secretary of + War (General Henry Dearborn), secured from that body the passage of an act + granting to each member of the expedition a considerable tract of land + from the public domain. To each private and non-commissioned officer was + given three hundred acres; to Captain Clark, one thousand acres, and to + Captain Lewis fifteen hundred acres. In addition to this, the two officers + were given double pay for their services during the time of their absence. + Captain Lewis magnanimously objected to receiving more land for his + services than that given to Captain Clark. + </p> + <p> + Captain Lewis resigned from the army, March 2, 1807, having been nominated + to be Governor of Louisiana Territory a few days before. His commission as + Governor was dated March 3 of that year. He was thus made the Governor of + all the territory of the United States west of the Mississippi River. + About the same time, Captain Clark was appointed a general of the + territorial militia and Indian agent for that department. + </p> + <p> + Originally, the territory acquired from France was divided into the + District of New Orleans and the District of Louisiana, the first-named + being the lower portion of the territory and bounded on the north by a + line which now represents the northern boundary of the State of Louisiana; + and all above that line was known as the District of Louisiana. In 1812, + the upper part, or Louisiana, was named the Territory of Missouri, and + Captain Clark (otherwise General), was appointed Governor of the + Territory, July 1, 1813, his old friend and comrade having died a few + years earlier. + </p> + <p> + The end of Captain (otherwise Governor) Lewis was tragical and was + shadowed by a cloud. Official business calling him to Washington, he left + St. Louis early in September, 1809, and prosecuted his journey eastward + through Tennessee, by the way of Chickasaw Bluffs, now Memphis, of that + State. There is a mystery around his last days. On the eleventh of + October, he stopped at a wayside log-inn, and that night he died a violent + death, whether by his own hand or by that of a murderer, no living man + knows. There were many contradictory stories about the sad affair, some + persons holding to the one theory and some to the other. He was buried + where he died, in the centre of what is now Lewis County, Tennessee. In + 1848, the State of Tennessee erected over the last resting-place of Lewis + a handsome monument, the inscriptions on which duly set forth his many + virtues and his distinguished services to his country. + </p> + <p> + The story of the expedition of Lewis and Clark is the foundation of the + history of the great Northwest and the Missouri Valley. These men and + their devoted band of followers were the first to break into the world-old + solitudes of the heart of the continent and to explore the mountain + fastnesses in which the mighty Columbia has its birth. Following in their + footsteps, the hardy American emigrant, trader, adventurer, and + home-seeker penetrated the wilderness, and, building better than they + knew, laid the foundations of populous and thriving States. Peaceful farms + and noble cities, towns and villages, thrilling with the hum of modern + industry and activity, are spread over the vast spaces through which the + explorers threaded their toilsome trail, amid incredible privations and + hardships, showing the way westward across the boundless continent which + is ours. Let the names of those two men long be held in grateful honor by + the American people! + </p> + <p> + INDEX + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + A + + Alkali, natural deposits of, 60. + Antelope, first seen, 29, how hunted, 69. + Assiniboins, at war with Sioux, 49. + + B + + Beaver, hunted as game, 70, + Beaver Head, 143. + Big Dry River, 75. + Bismarck, N. D., 44. + Bitter Root Mountains, 147. + Black Cat, a Mandan chief, 342. + Boone, Daniel, 14. + Buffalo, first signs of, 16; hunt, 51; curious adventure with, 87; + extermination of, 338. + + C + + Caches, how built, 98. + Calumet bird, 43. + Camas, edible root, 179. + Cameahwait, a Shoshonee chief, 157. + Camp, first winter, 48; departure from, 57. + Candle-fish, 252. + Cannonball River, N. D-, 43. + Captain Cook, 3. + Captain Gray, 3. + Captain Vancouver, 3. + Carroll, Mont., 83. + Carver, Jonathan, 5. + Cascades of the Columbia, 262. + Cathedral Rocks, 90-92. + Cheyenne River, 40. + Chinook Indians, 208, some account of, 246. + Chouteau, a St. Louis trader, 355. + Christmas (1804), 52. (1805), 240- + Clark, Captain, biographical notice Of, 7. + general of militia, 359. + Clark’s Fort, 48. + river, 180-63. + party overtaken by disaster, 142. + Clatsop Indians, some account Of, 248. + Clearwater River, 183. + Cloudburst, 116. + Columbia River, discovery Of, 4. + portage to, 108; + at the headwaters of, 148. + at the entrance to, 194. + great falls of, 202; + the great chute Of, 21. + et seq. Comowol, a Columbia River Indian + chief, 239. + Condor, a California variety, 256. + Council Bluffs, 19. + Cowas, an edible root, 278. + Coyote, described, 72. + Crow Indians, 24. + + D + + Dalles, the, 266. + Dearborn River, 130. + Divide, on the great, 148; + across the, 179. + Dog’s flesh as an article of food, 24. + 185- + + E + + Echeloot Indians, 210. + Elk, hunting of, 251. + Ermine, first seen, 49. + Expedition, Lewis and Clark’s, 7. + Organization of, 8. + route of, 10; + sets sail, 14. + “Experiment,” failure of the boat, 124 + + F + + Falls of the Missouri, 101. + description of, 11. et seq. + Flathead Indians, 211. + Floyd’s River, why so named, 23. + Forks of the Missouri, 135. + Fort Clark, 48. + Clatsop, 255. + + G + + Gallatin’s fork of the Missouri, 135. + Gates of the Rocky Mountains, 132. + Goose-nests in trees, 61. + gray, Capt., discoverer of the Columbia, 3. + Grizzly bear, first seen, 40. + thrilling encounters with, 72, 76, 77, 105, 115, 315- + + H + + Horse-flesh eaten by the expedition, 77. + Hungry Creek, 178, 303- + + 1 + + Independence Day, celebration of (1805), 123. + (180(i), 327. + Iowa Indians, 16. + Islands, White Bear, 110. + + J + + Jefferson, President Thomas, 2-4. + his letters to Capt. Lewis, 12. + presents to, + from Lewis and Clark, 55. + welcome to Capt. Lewis on return, 358. + name given + to fork of the Missouri, 135. + John Day’s River, 203- + + K + + Klikitat River, 214. + Kooskooskee River, 180. + + L + + Lewis, Capt., biographical notice of, 6, 7. + accidentally wounded, 341; + announces his return, 358. + Governor of Louisiana Territory, 359; + his tragical death, 360. + Lewis and Clark, pursue separate routes across + the Divide, 140. + also on their return, 310. + Lewis’s River, 165. + + Lewiston, Idaho, 185. + Ledyard, John, 4. + Lemhi River, 152. + Little Devils, hill Of, 23. + Louisiana Purchase, the, 1-2; + divided into two territories, 360. + + M + + Madison, fork of the Missouri, 135. + Mandan Indians, 4. et seq.; + religion of, 50. + Maria’s River, 97. + Medicine River, 106. + Meriwether’s Bay, 234. + Milk River, 74. + Minnetarees, at war + with Sioux, 49. + expedition has an encounter with, 31. et seq, + Missouri River, Little, 60. + Missouri, the Upper, So; great falls of, 101; + forks of, 135. + at the headwaters Of, 147. + Mosquitoes, the great + plague of, 126, 339. + Mount St. Helen’s, 198. + Hood, 203. + Mouse River, source of, 60. + Multnomah (Willamette) River, 221. + 259. + Musselshell River, 81. + + N + + Nez Perce Indians (Chopunnish), 180. + some account of the, 186. + Noises, mysterious, 122. + + 0 + + Osage Indians, traditions of, 15. + Ottoes, council with, 20. + + P + + Pacific Ocean, first sight of the, 225. + Pawpaw fruit, 357. + Pemmican, 33. + Platte River as a boundary, 17. + Porcupine River, 70. + Prairie dog, 29. + + Q Quamash flats, 302. + Quicksand River, 220. + + R + + Rat, peculiar variety of, 121. + Rickarees, in the country + of the, 40. + River, Little Missouri, to; Mouse, source of, 60; + Yellowstone, 65. + Porcupine, 70. + Saskatchewan, 74. + Milk, 74; + Big Dry, 75. + Upper Missouri, 80. + Musselshell, 81. + Slaughter, 88; + Maria’s, 97. + Madison, 106. + Columbia, portage to, 108. + Smith’s, 129; + Dearborn, 130. + Salmon, 152. + Lemhi, 152. + Lewis’s, 165. + Kooskooskee, 180; + Clark’s, 180. + Clearwater, 183. + Snake, 188. + Yakima, 196. + John Day’S, 203; + Klikitat, 21. + Quicksand, 220. + Multnomah. 220. + Rocky Mountains, + first sight of, 85. + sheep, 85. + gates of the, 132. + farewell to + the mountains, 335. + Rocks, Cathedral, 90-92. + + S + + St. Louis, village of, 11. + first post-office in, 359. + Sacajawea, joins the expedition, 4. + stream named for her, 82; + story of her capture, 138. + finds her own people, 160. + a tribute to + her memory, 332. + Sage-brush, first seen, 62. + Saline County, Mo., 16. + Salmon River, 152. + City, Idaho, 165. + abundance of fish, 194. + Salt, made from sea-water, 23. + et seq. Saskatchewan River, 74. + Shannon, the lost hunter, 143. + Shoshonees, first meeting with, 14. + among the, 15. + et seq.; some account of the, 17. + et seq. + Sioux Indians, 27. + Slaughter River, 88. + Smith’s River, 128. + + Snake River, 188. + junction of the with Columbia, 190. + Sokulk Indians, some account of, 19. + et seq. Spirit Mound, 24. + Spring River, S. D-; 42. + Stone-Idol Creek, legend Of, 42. + Sweat baths, Indian, 187, 298. + + T + + Tetons, in the country of, 33-38. + Three-thousand-mile Island, 331. + Tillamook Indians, 244. + Traveller’s-rest Creek, 309. + Twisted-hair, an Indian chief, adventures with, 28. et seq. + + U Umatilla, 271- + + V + + Vancouver, Capt-y 3- + + W + + Wahkiacum Indians, 224. + Walla Walla, 271. + Wappatoo, edible root, 23. + description of, 260. + Weocksockwillacums, 265. + Wharfington, commands return party to the U. S., 58. + White Bear Islands, 110. + camp at, 114. + Whisky, Indian rejection + of, 42. + Winter camp, first, 48. + departure from, 57- + + Y + + Yakima River, 196. + Yankton, S. D., 24. + Yellowstone River, 65; + Capt. Clark’s descent of the, 327. + York, a negro servant, 41. 159. +</pre> + <div style="height: 6em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg’s First Across the Continent, by Noah Brooks + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FIRST ACROSS THE CONTINENT *** + +***** This file should be named 1236-h.htm or 1236-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/1/2/3/1236/ + +Produced by Charles Keller and David Widger + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: First Across the Continent + +Author: Noah Brooks + +Release Date: February 11, 2006 [EBook #1236] +[Last updated: June 22, 2011] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FIRST ACROSS THE CONTINENT *** + + + + +Produced by Charles Keller and David Widger + + + + + +FIRST ACROSS THE CONTINENT + +The Story of The Exploring Expedition of Lewis and Clark in 1804-5-6 + +By Noah Brooks + + + + +Chapter I -- A Great Transaction in Land + +The people of the young Republic of the United States were greatly +astonished, in the summer of 1803, to learn that Napoleon Bonaparte, +then First Consul of France, had sold to us the vast tract of land known +as the country of Louisiana. The details of this purchase were arranged +in Paris (on the part of the United States) by Robert R. Livingston and +James Monroe. The French government was represented by Barbe-Marbois, +Minister of the Public Treasury. + +The price to be paid for this vast domain was fifteen million dollars. +The area of the country ceded was reckoned to be more than one million +square miles, greater than the total area of the United States, as the +Republic then existed. Roughly described, the territory comprised all +that part of the continent west of the Mississippi River, bounded on the +north by the British possessions and on the west and south by dominions +of Spain. This included the region in which now lie the States of +Louisiana, Arkansas, Missouri, Kansas, parts of Colorado, Minnesota, the +States of Iowa, Nebraska, South Dakota, North Dakota, Wyoming, a part +of Idaho, all of Montana and Territory of Oklahoma. At that time, the +entire population of the region, exclusive of the Indian tribes that +roamed over its trackless spaces, was barely ninety thousand persons, +of whom forty thousand were negro slaves. The civilized inhabitants +were principally French, or descendants of French, with a few Spanish, +Germans, English, and Americans. + +The purchase of this tremendous slice of territory could not be complete +without an approval of the bargain by the United States Senate. Great +opposition to this was immediately excited by people in various parts +of the Union, especially in New England, where there was a very bitter +feeling against the prime mover in this business,--Thomas Jefferson, +then President of the United States. The scheme was ridiculed by persons +who insisted that the region was not only wild and unexplored, but +uninhabitable and worthless. They derided "The Jefferson Purchase," as +they called it, as a useless piece of extravagance and folly; and, in +addition to its being a foolish bargain, it was urged that President +Jefferson had no right, under the constitution of the United States, to +add any territory to the area of the Republic. + +Nevertheless, a majority of the people were in favor of the purchase, +and the bargain was duly approved by the United States Senate; that +body, July 31, 1803, just three months after the execution of the treaty +of cession, formally ratified the important agreement between the two +governments. The dominion of the United States was now extended across +the entire continent of North America, reaching from the Atlantic to the +Pacific. The Territory of Oregon was already ours. + +This momentous transfer took place one hundred years ago, when almost +nothing was known of the region so summarily handed from the government +of France to the government of the American Republic. Few white men had +ever traversed those trackless plains, or scaled the frowning ranges of +mountains that barred the way across the continent. There were living in +the fastnesses of the mysterious interior of the Louisiana Purchase many +tribes of Indians who had never looked in the face of the white man. + +Nor was the Pacific shore of the country any better known to civilized +man than was the region lying between that coast and the Big Muddy, or +Missouri River. Spanish voyagers, in 1602, had sailed as far north as +the harbors of San Diego and Monterey, in what is now California; +and other explorers, of the same nationality, in 1775, extended their +discoveries as far north as the fifty-eighth degree of latitude. Famous +Captain Cook, the great navigator of the Pacific seas, in 1778, reached +and entered Nootka Sound, and, leaving numerous harbors and bays +unexplored, he pressed on and visited the shores of Alaska, then called +Unalaska, and traced the coast as far north as Icy Cape. Cold weather +drove him westward across the Pacific, and he spent the next winter at +Owyhee, where, in February of the following year, he was killed by the +natives. + +All these explorers were looking for chances for fur-trading, which was +at that time the chief industry of the Pacific coast. Curiously enough, +they all passed by the mouth of the Columbia without observing that +there was the entrance to one of the finest rivers on the American +continent. + +Indeed, Captain Vancouver, a British explorer, who has left his name +on the most important island of the North Pacific coast, baffled by the +deceptive appearances of the two capes that guard the way to a noble +stream (Cape Disappointment and Cape Deception), passed them without a +thought. But Captain Gray, sailing the good ship "Columbia," of Boston, +who coasted those shores for more than two years, fully convinced that a +strong current which he observed off those capes came from a river, made +a determined effort; and on the 11th of May, 1792, he discovered and +entered the great river that now bears the name of his ship. At last +the key that was to open the mountain fastnesses of the heart of the +continent had been found. The names of the capes christened by Vancouver +and re-christened by Captain Gray have disappeared from our maps, but +in the words of one of the numerous editors(1) of the narrative of the +exploring expedition of Lewis and Clark: "The name of the good ship +'Columbia,' it is not hard to believe, will flow with the waters of the +bold river as long as grass grows or water runs in the valleys of the +Rocky Mountains." + + + (1) Dr. Archibald McVickar. + + +It appears that the attention of President Jefferson had been early +attracted to the vast, unexplored domain which his wise foresight was +finally to add to the territory of the United States. While he was +living in Paris, as the representative of the United States, in 1785-89, +he made the acquaintance of John Ledyard, of Connecticut, the well-known +explorer, who had then in mind a scheme for the establishment of a +fur-trading post on the western coast of America. Mr. Jefferson proposed +to Ledyard that the most feasible route to the coveted fur-bearing lands +would be through the Russian possessions and downward somewhere near to +the latitude of the then unknown sources of the Missouri River, entering +the United States by that route. This scheme fell through on account of +the obstacles thrown in Ledyard's way by the Russian Government. A few +years later, in 1792, Jefferson, whose mind was apparently fixed on +carrying out his project, proposed to the American Philosophical Society +of Philadelphia that a subscription should be opened for the purpose of +raising money "to engage some competent person to explore that region in +the opposite direction (from the Pacific coast),--that is, by ascending +the Missouri, crossing the Stony (Rocky) Mountains, and descending the +nearest river to the Pacific." This was the hint from which originated +the famous expedition of Lewis and Clark. + +But the story-teller should not forget to mention that hardy and +adventurous explorer, Jonathan Carver. This man, the son of a British +officer, set out from Boston, in 1766, to explore the wilderness north +of Albany and lying along the southern shore of the Great Lakes. He was +absent two years and seven months, and in that time he collected a vast +amount of useful and strange information, besides learning the language +of the Indians among whom he lived. He conceived the bold plan of +travelling up a branch of the Missouri (or "Messorie"), till, having +discovered the source of the traditional "Oregon, or River of the West," +on the western side of the lands that divide the continent, "he would +have sailed down that river to the place where it is said to empty +itself, near the Straits of Anian." + +By the Straits of Anian, we are to suppose, were meant some part of +Behring's Straits, separating Asia from the American continent. Carver's +fertile imagination, stimulated by what he knew of the remote Northwest, +pictured that wild region where, according to a modern poet, "rolls the +Oregon and hears no sound save his own dashing." But Carver died without +the sight; in his later years, he said of those who should follow his +lead: "While their spirits are elated by their success, perhaps they may +bestow some commendations and blessings on the person who first pointed +out to them the way." + + + + +Chapter II -- Beginning a Long Journey + +In 1803, availing himself of a plausible pretext to send out an +exploring expedition, President Jefferson asked Congress to appropriate +a small sum of money ($2,500) for the execution of his purpose. At that +time the cession of the Louisiana Territory had not been completed; but +matters were in train to that end, and before the expedition was fairly +started on its long journey across the continent, the Territory was +formally ceded to the United States. + +Meriwether Lewis, a captain in the army, was selected by Jefferson to +lead the expedition. Captain Lewis was a native of Virginia, and at that +time was only twenty-nine years old. He had been Jefferson's private +secretary for two years and was, of course, familiar with the +President's plans and expectations as these regarded the wonder-land +which Lewis was to enter. It is pleasant to quote here Mr. Jefferson's +words concerning Captain Lewis. In a memoir of that distinguished young +officer, written after his death, Jefferson said: "Of courage undaunted; +possessing a firmness and perseverance of purpose which nothing but +impossibilities could divert from its direction; careful as a father of +those committed to his charge, yet steady in the maintenance of +order and discipline; intimate with the Indian character, customs +and principles; habituated to the hunting life; guarded, by exact +observation of the vegetables and animals of his own country, against +losing time in the description of objects already possessed; honest, +disinterested, liberal, of sound understanding, and a fidelity to truth +so scrupulous that whatever he should report would be as certain as if +seen by ourselves--with all these qualifications, as if selected and +implanted by nature in one body for this express purpose, I could have +no hesitation in confiding the enterprise to him." + +Before we have finished the story of Meriwether Lewis and his +companions, we shall see that this high praise of the youthful commander +was well deserved. + +For a coadjutor and comrade Captain Lewis chose William Clark,(1) also +a native of Virginia, and then about thirty-three years old. Clark, like +Lewis, held a commission in the military service of the United States, +and his appointment as one of the leaders of the expedition with which +his name and that of Lewis will ever be associated, made the two men +equal in rank. Exactly how there could be two captains commanding the +same expedition, both of the same military and actual rank, without jar +or quarrel, we cannot understand; but it is certain that the two young +men got on together harmoniously, and no hint or suspicion of any +serious disagreement between the two captains during their long and +arduous service has come down to us from those distant days. + + + (1) It is a little singular that Captain Clark's name has + been so persistently misspelled by historians and + biographers. Even in most of the published versions of the + story of the Lewis and Clark expedition, the name of one of + the captains is spelled Clarke. Clark's own signature, of + which many are in existence, is without the final and + superfluous vowel; and the family name, for generations + past, does not show it. + + +As finally organized, the expedition was made up of the two captains +(Lewis and Clark) and twenty-six men. These were nine young men from +Kentucky, who were used to life on the frontier among Indians; fourteen +soldiers of the United States Army, selected from many who eagerly +volunteered their services; two French voyageurs, or watermen, one of +whom was an interpreter of Indian language, and the other a hunter; and +one black man, a servant of Captain Clark. All these, except the negro +servant, were regularly enlisted as privates in the military service of +the United States during the expedition; and three of them were by the +captains appointed sergeants. In addition to this force, nine voyageurs +and a corporal and six private soldiers were detailed to act as guides +and assistants until the explorers should reach the country of the +Mandan Indians, a region lying around the spot where is now situated +the flourishing city of Bismarck, the capital of North Dakota. It was +expected that if hostile Indians should attack the explorers anywhere +within the limits of the little-known parts through which they were +to make their way, such attacks were more likely to be made below the +Mandan country than elsewhere. + +The duties of the explorers were numerous and important. They were to +explore as thoroughly as possible the country through which they were +to pass; making such observations of latitude and longitude as would be +needed when maps of the region should be prepared by the War Department; +observing the trade, commerce, tribal relations, manners and customs, +language, traditions, and monuments, habits and industrial pursuits, +diseases and laws of the Indian nations with whom they might come in +contact; note the floral, mineral, and animal characteristics of the +country, and, above all, to report whatever might be of interest to +citizens who might thereafter be desirous of opening trade relations +with those wild tribes of which almost nothing was then distinctly +known. + +The list of articles with which the explorers were provided, to aid them +in establishing peaceful relations with the Indians, might amuse traders +of the present day. But in those primitive times, and among peoples +entirely ignorant of the white man's riches and resources, coats richly +laced with gilt braid, red trousers, medals, flags, knives, colored +handkerchiefs, paints, small looking-glasses, beads and tomahawks were +believed to be so attractive to the simple-minded red man that he would +gladly do much and give much of his own to win such prizes. Of these +fine things there were fourteen large bales and one box. The stores of +the expedition were clothing, working tools, fire-arms, food supplies, +powder, ball, lead for bullets, and flints for the guns then in use, the +old-fashioned flint-lock rifle and musket being still in vogue in our +country; for all of this was at the beginning of the present century. + +As the party was to begin their long journey by ascending the Missouri +River, their means of travel were provided in three boats. The largest, +a keel-boat, fifty-five feet long and drawing three feet of water, +carried a big square sail and twenty-two seats for oarsmen. On board +this craft was a small swivel gun. The other two boats were of that +variety of open craft known as pirogue, a craft shaped like a flat-iron, +square-sterned, flat-bottomed, roomy, of light draft, and usually +provided with four oars and a square sail which could be used when the +wind was aft, and which also served as a tent, or night shelter, on +shore. Two horses, for hunting or other occasional service, were led +along the banks of the river. + +As we have seen, President Jefferson, whose master mind organized and +devised this expedition, had dwelt longingly on the prospect of crossing +the continent from the headwaters of the Missouri to the headwaters of +the then newly-discovered Columbia. The route thus explored was more +difficult than that which was later travelled by the first emigrants +across the continent to California. That route lies up the Platte River, +through what is known as the South Pass of the Rocky Mountains, by Great +Salt Lake and down the valley of the Humboldt into California, crossing +the Sierra Nevada at any one of several points leading into the valley +of the Sacramento. The route, which was opened by the gold-seekers, was +followed by the first railroads built across the continent. The route +that lay so firmly in Jefferson's mind, and which was followed up with +incredible hardships by the Lewis and Clark expedition, has since been +traversed by two railroads, built after the first transcontinental +rails were laid. If Jefferson had desired to find the shortest and most +feasible route across the continent, he would have pointed to the South +Pass and Utah basin trails. But these would have led the explorers into +California, then and long afterwards a Spanish possession. The entire +line finally traced over the Great Divide lay within the territory of +the United States. + +But it must be remembered that while the expedition was being organized, +the vast Territory of Louisiana was as yet a French possession. Before +the party were brought together and their supplies collected, +the territory passed under the jurisdiction of the United States. +Nevertheless, that jurisdiction was not immediately acknowledged by +the officials who, up to that time, had been the representatives of the +French and Spanish governments. Part of the territory was transferred +from Spain to France and then from France to the United States. It was +intended that the exploring party should pass the winter of 1803-4 in +St. Louis, then a mere village which had been commonly known as Pain +Court. But the Spanish governor of the province had not been officially +told that the country had been transferred to the United States, and, +after the Spanish manner, he forbade the passage of the Americans +through his jurisdiction. In those days communication between frontier +posts and points lying far to the eastward of the Mississippi was very +difficult; it required six weeks to carry the mails between New York, +Philadelphia, and Washington to St. Louis; and this was the reason why +a treaty, ratified in July, was not officially heard of in St. Louis +as late as December of that year. The explorers, shut out of Spanish +territory, recrossed the Mississippi and wintered at the mouth of Wood +River, just above St. Louis, on the eastern side of the great river, in +United States territory. As a matter of record, it may be said here that +the actual transfer of the lower part of the territory--commonly known +as Orleans--took place at New Orleans, December 20, 1803, and the +transfer of the upper part was effected at St. Louis, March 10, 1804, +before the Lewis and Clark expedition had started on its long journey to +the northwestward. + +All over the small area of the United States then existed a deep +interest in the proposed explorations of the course and sources of the +Missouri River. The explorers were about to plunge into vast solitudes +of which white people knew less than we know now about the North Polar +country. Wild and extravagant stories of what was to be seen in those +trackless regions were circulated in the States. For example, it was +said that Lewis and Clark expected to find the mammoth of prehistoric +times still living and wandering in the Upper Missouri region; and it +was commonly reported that somewhere, a thousand miles or so up +the river, was a solid mountain of rock salt, eighty miles long and +forty-five miles wide, destitute of vegetation and glittering in the +sun! These, and other tales like these, were said to be believed and +doted upon by the great Jefferson himself. The Federalists, or "Feds," +as they were called, who hated Jefferson, pretended to believe that he +had invented some of these foolish yarns, hoping thereby to make his +Louisiana purchase more popular in the Republic. + +In his last letter to Captain Lewis, which was to reach the explorers +before they started, Jefferson said: "The acquisition of the country +through which you are to pass has inspired the country generally with a +great deal of interest in your enterprise. The inquiries are perpetual +as to your progress. The Feds alone still treat it as a philosophism, +and would rejoice at its failure. Their bitterness increases with the +diminution of their numbers and despair of a resurrection. I hope you +will take care of yourself, and be a living witness of their malice and +folly." Indeed, after the explorers were lost sight of in the wilderness +which they were to traverse, many people in the States declaimed +bitterly against the folly that had sent these unfortunate men to perish +miserably in the fathomless depths of the continent. They no longer +treated it "as a philosophism," or wild prank, but as a wicked scheme to +risk life and property in a search for the mysteries of the unknown and +unknowable. + +As a striking illustration of this uncertainty of the outcome of the +expedition, which exercised even the mind of Jefferson, it may be said +that in his instructions to Captain Lewis he said: "Our Consuls, Thomas +Hewes, at Batavia in Java, William Buchanan in the isles of France and +Bourbon, and John Elmslie at the Cape of Good Hope, will be able to +supply your necessities by drafts on us." All this seems strange enough +to the young reader of the present day; but this was said and done one +hundred years ago. + + + + +Chapter III -- From the Lower to the Upper River + +The party finally set sail up the Missouri River on Monday, May 21, +1804, but made only a few miles, owing to head winds. Four days +later they camped near the last white settlement on the Missouri,--La +Charrette, a little village of seven poor houses. Here lived Daniel +Boone, the famous Kentucky backwoodsman, then nearly seventy years old, +but still vigorous, erect, and strong of limb. Here and above this place +the explorers began to meet with unfamiliar Indian tribes and names. For +example, they met two canoes loaded with furs "from the Mahar nation." +The writer of the Lewis and Clark journal, upon whose notes we rely for +our story, made many slips of this sort. By "Mahars" we must understand +that the Omahas were meant. We shall come across other such instances +in which the strangers mistook the pronunciation of Indian names. For +example, Kansas was by them misspelled as "Canseze" and "Canzan;" and +there appear some thirteen or fourteen different spellings of Sioux, of +which one of the most far-fetched is "Scouex." + +The explorers were now in a country unknown to them and almost unknown +to any white man. On the thirty-first of May, a messenger came down the +Grand Osage River bringing a letter from a person who wrote that the +Indians, having been notified that the country had been ceded to the +Americans, burned the letter containing the tidings, refusing to believe +the report. The Osage Indians, through whose territory they were now +passing, were among the largest and finest-formed red men of the West. +Their name came from the river along which they warred and hunted, but +their proper title, as they called themselves, was "the Wabashas," and +from them, in later years, we derive the familiar name of Wabash. A +curious tradition of this people, according to the journal of Lewis and +Clark, is that the founder of the nation was a snail, passing a quiet +existence along the banks of the Osage, till a high flood swept him down +to the Missouri, and left him exposed on the shore. The heat of the sun +at length ripened him into a man; but with the change of his nature +he had not forgotten his native seats on the Osage, towards which he +immediately bent his way. He was, however, soon overtaken by hunger and +fatigue, when happily, the Great Spirit appeared, and, giving him a bow +and arrow, showed him how to kill and cook deer, and cover himself +with the skin. He then proceeded to his original residence; but as he +approached the river he was met by a beaver, who inquired haughtily who +he was, and by what authority he came to disturb his possession. The +Osage answered that the river was his own, for he had once lived on its +borders. As they stood disputing, the daughter of the beaver came, and +having, by her entreaties, reconciled her father to this young stranger, +it was proposed that the Osage should marry the young beaver, and share +with her family the enjoyment of the river. The Osage readily consented, +and from this happy union there soon came the village and the nation of +the Wabasha, or Osages, who have ever since preserved a pious reverence +for their ancestors, abstaining from the chase of the beaver, because in +killing that animal they killed a brother of the Osage. Of late years, +however, since the trade with the whites has rendered beaver-skins more +valuable, the sanctity of these maternal relatives has been visibly +reduced, and the poor animals have lost all the privileges of kindred. + +Game was abundant all along the river as the explorers sailed up the +stream. Their hunters killed numbers of deer, and at the mouth of Big +Good Woman Creek, which empties into the Missouri near the present town +of Franklin, Howard County, three bears were brought into the camp. +Here, too, they began to find salt springs, or "salt licks," to which +many wild animals resorted for salt, of which they were very fond. +Saline County, Missouri, perpetuates the name given to the region by +Lewis and Clark. Traces of buffalo were also found here, and occasional +wandering traders told them that the Indians had begun to hunt the +buffalo now that the grass had become abundant enough to attract this +big game from regions lying further south. + +By the tenth of June the party had entered the country of the Ayauway +nation. This was an easy way of spelling the word now familiar to us +as "Iowa." But before that spelling was reached, it was Ayaway, Ayahwa, +Iawai, Iaway, and so on. The remnants of this once powerful tribe now +number scarcely two hundred persons. In Lewis and Clark's time, they +were a large nation, with several hundred warriors, and were constantly +at war with their neighbors. Game here grew still more abundant, and in +addition to deer and bear the hunters brought in a raccoon. One of these +hunters brought into camp a wild tale of a snake which, he said, "made +a guttural noise like a turkey." One of the French voyageurs confirmed +this story; but the croaking snake was never found and identified. + +On the twenty-fourth of June the explorers halted to prepare some of the +meat which their hunters brought in. Numerous herds of deer were feeding +on the abundant grass and young willows that grew along the river banks. +The meat, cut in small strips, or ribbons, was dried quickly in the hot +sun. This was called "jirked" meat. Later on the word was corrupted into +"jerked," and "jerked beef" is not unknown at the present day. The verb +"jerk" is corrupted from the Chilian word, charqui, meaning sun-dried +meat; but it is not easy to explain how the Chilian word got into the +Northwest. + +As the season advanced, the party found many delicious wild fruits, such +as currants, plums, raspberries, wild apples, and vast quantities of +mulberries. Wild turkeys were also found in large numbers, and the party +had evidently entered a land of plenty. Wild geese were abundant, and +numerous tracks of elk were seen. But we may as well say here that the +so-called elk of the Northwest is not the elk of ancient Europe; a more +correct and distinctive name for this animal is wapiti, the name given +the animal by the Indians. The European elk more closely resembles the +American moose. Its antlers are flat, low, and palmated like our moose; +whereas the antlers of the American elk, so-called, are long, high, and +round-shaped with many sharp points or tines. The mouth of the great +Platte River was reached on the twenty-first of July. This famous stream +was then regarded as a sort of boundary line between the known and +unknown regions. As mariners crossing the equator require all their +comrades, who have not been "over the line" to submit to lathering +and shaving, so the Western voyageurs merrily compelled their mates to +submit to similar horse-play. The great river was also the mark above +which explorers entered upon what was called the Upper Missouri. + +The expedition was now advancing into a region inhabited by several +wandering tribes of Indians, chief of which were the Ottoes, Missouris, +and Pawnees. It was determined, therefore, to call a council of some of +the chiefs of these bands and make terms of peace with them. After +some delay, the messengers sent out to them brought in fourteen +representative Indians, to whom the white men made presents of roast +meat, pork, flour, and corn-meal, in return for which their visitors +brought them quantities of delicious watermelons. "Next day, August +3," says the journal, "the Indians, with their six chiefs, were all +assembled under an awning formed with the mainsail, in presence of all +our party, paraded for the occasion. A speech was then made, announcing +to them the change in the government, our promises of protection, and +advice as to their future conduct. All the six chiefs replied to our +speech, each in his turn, according to rank. They expressed their joy at +the change in the government; their hopes that we would recommend them +to their Great Father (the president), that they might obtain trade and +necessaries: they wanted arms as well for hunting as for defence, and +asked our mediation between them and the Mahas, with whom they are now +at war. We promised to do so, and wished some of them to accompany us to +that nation, which they declined, for fear of being killed by them. We +then proceeded to distribute our presents. The grand chief of the nation +not being of the party, we sent him a flag, a medal, and some ornaments +for clothing. To the six chiefs who were present, we gave a medal of the +second grade to one Ottoe chief and one Missouri chief; a medal of the +third grade to two inferior chiefs of each nation; the customary mode +of recognizing a chief being to place a medal round his neck, which is +considered among his tribe as a proof of his consideration abroad. Each +of these medals was accompanied by a present of paint, garters, and +cloth ornaments of dress; and to this we added a canister of powder, a +bottle of whiskey, and a few presents to the whole, which appeared +to make them perfectly satisfied. The air-gun, too, was fired, and +astonished them greatly. The absent grand chief was an Ottoe, named +Weahrushhah, which, in English, degenerates into Little Thief. The two +principal chieftains present were Shongotongo, or Big Horse, and Wethea, +or Hospitality; also Shosguscan, or White Horse, an Ottoe; the first an +Ottoe, the second a Missouri. The incidents just related induced us to +give to this place the name of the Council Bluffs: the situation of it +is exceedingly favorable for a fort and trading factory, as the soil +is well calculated for bricks, and there is an abundance of wood in the +neighborhood, and the air being pure and healthy." + +Of course the reader will recognize, in the name given to this place by +Lewis and Clark, the flourishing modern city of Council Bluffs, Iowa. +Nevertheless, as a matter of fact, the council took place on the +Nebraskan or western side of the river, and the meeting-place was at +some distance above the site of the present city of Council Bluffs. + +Above Council Bluffs the explorers found the banks of the river to be +high and bluffy, and on one of the highlands which they passed they saw +the burial-place of Blackbird, one of the great men of the Mahars, or +Omahas, who had died of small-pox. A mound, twelve feet in diameter and +six feet high, had been raised over the grave, and on a tall pole at +the summit the party fixed a flag of red, white, and blue. The place +was regarded as sacred by the Omahas, who kept the dead chieftain well +supplied with provisions. The small-pox had caused great mortality among +the Indians; and a few years before the white men's visit, when the fell +disease had destroyed four hundred men, with a due proportion of women +and children, the survivors burned their village and fled. + +"They had been a military and powerful people; but when these warriors +saw their strength wasting before a malady which they could not resist, +their frenzy was extreme; they burned their village, and many of them +put to death their wives and children, to save them from so cruel an +affliction, and that all might go together to some better country." + +In Omaha, or Mahar Creek, the explorers made their first experiment +in dragging the stream for fish. With a drag of willows, loaded with +stones, they succeeded in catching a great variety of fine fish, over +three hundred at one haul, and eight hundred at another. These were +pike, bass, salmon-trout, catfish, buffalo fish, perch, and a species of +shrimp, all of which proved an acceptable addition to their usual flesh +bill-of-fare. + +Desiring to call in some of the surrounding Indian tribes, they here +set fire to the dry prairie grass, that being the customary signal for a +meeting of different bands of roving peoples. In the afternoon of August +18, a party of Ottoes, headed by Little Thief and Big Horse, came in, +with six other chiefs and a French interpreter. The journal says:-- + +"We met them under a shade, and after they had finished a repast with +which we supplied them, we inquired into the origin of the war between +them and the Mahas, which they related with great frankness. It seems +that two of the Missouris went to the Mahas to steal horses, but were +detected and killed; the Ottoes and Missouris thought themselves bound +to avenge their companions, and the whole nations were at last obliged +to share in the dispute. They are also in fear of a war from the +Pawnees, whose village they entered this summer, while the inhabitants +were hunting, and stole their corn. This ingenuous confession did +not make us the less desirous of negotiating a peace for them; but no +Indians have as yet been attracted by our fire. The evening was closed +by a dance; and the next day, the chiefs and warriors being assembled +at ten o'clock, we explained the speech we had already sent from the +Council Bluffs, and renewed our advice. They all replied in turn, and +the presents were then distributed. We exchanged the small medal we had +formerly given to the Big Horse for one of the same size with that of +Little Thief: we also gave a small medal to a third chief, and a kind +of certificate or letter of acknowledgment to five of the warriors +expressive of our favor and their good intentions. One of them, +dissatisfied, returned us the certificate; but the chief, fearful of +our being offended, begged that it might be restored to him; this we +declined, and rebuked them severely for having in view mere traffic +instead of peace with their neighbors. This displeased them at first; +but they at length all petitioned that it should be given to the +warrior, who then came forward and made an apology to us; we then +delivered it to the chief to be given to the most worthy, and he +bestowed it on the same warrior, whose name was Great Blue Eyes. After a +more substantial present of small articles and tobacco, the council was +ended with a dram to the Indians. In the evening we exhibited different +objects of curiosity, and particularly the air-gun, which gave them +great surprise. Those people are almost naked, having no covering except +a sort of breech-cloth round the middle, with a loose blanket or buffalo +robe, painted, thrown over them. The names of these warriors, besides +those already mentioned, were Karkapaha, or Crow's Head, and Nenasawa, +or Black Cat, Missouris; and Sananona, or Iron Eyes, Neswaunja, or +Big Ox, Stageaunja, or Big Blue Eyes, and Wasashaco, or Brave Man, all +Ottoes." + + + + +Chapter IV -- Novel Experiences among the Indians + +About this time (the nineteenth and twentieth of August), the explorers +lost by death the only member of their party who did not survive the +journey. Floyd River, which flows into the Upper Missouri, in the +northwest corner of Iowa, still marks the last resting-place of Sergeant +Charles Floyd, who died there of bilious colic and was buried by his +comrades near the mouth of the stream. Near here was a quarry of red +pipestone, dear to the Indian fancy as a mine of material for their +pipes; traces of this deposit still remain. So fond of this red rock +were the Indians that when they went there to get the stuff, even +lifelong and vindictive enemies declared a truce while they gathered the +material, and savage hostile tribes suspended their wars for a time. + +On the north side of the Missouri, at a point in what is now known +as Clay County, South Dakota, Captains Lewis and Clark, with ten men, +turned aside to see a great natural curiosity, known to the Indians as +the Hill of Little Devils. The hill is a singular mound in the midst of +a flat prairie, three hundred yards long, sixty or seventy yards wide, +and about seventy feet high. The top is a smooth level plain. The +journal says:-- + +"The Indians have made it a great article of their superstition: it +is called the Mountain of Little People, or Little Spirits; and they +believe that it is the abode of little devils, in the human form, of +about eighteen inches high, and with remarkably large heads; they are +armed with sharp arrows, with which they are very skilful, and are +always on the watch to kill those who should have the hardihood to +approach their residence. The tradition is, that many have suffered from +these little evil spirits, and, among others, three Maha Indians fell +a sacrifice to them a few years since. This has inspired all the +neighboring nations, Sioux, Mahas, and Ottoes, with such terror, that no +consideration could tempt them to visit the hill. We saw none of these +wicked little spirits, nor any place for them, except some small holes +scattered over the top; we were happy enough to escape their vengeance, +though we remained some time on the mound to enjoy the delightful +prospect of the plain, which spreads itself out till the eye rests upon +the northwest hills at a great distance, and those of the northeast, +still farther off, enlivened by large herds of buffalo feeding at a +distance." + +The present residents of the region, South Dakota, have preserved the +Indian tradition, and Spirit Mound may be seen on modern maps of that +country. + +Passing on their way up the Missouri, the explorers found several kinds +of delicious wild plums and vast quantities of grapes; and here, too, +they passed the mouth of the Yankton River, now known as the Dakota, +at the mouth of which is the modern city of Yankton, South Dakota. The +Yankton-Sioux Indians, numbering about one thousand people, inhabited +this part of the country, and near here the white men were met by a +large band of these Sioux who had come in at the invitation of Lewis +and Clark. The messengers from the white men reported that they had been +well received by the Indians, who, as a mark of respect, presented their +visitors with "a fat dog, already cooked, of which they partook heartily +and found it well-flavored." From this time, according to the journal, +the explorers tasted occasionally of roast dog, and later on they +adopted this dish as a regular feature of their bill-of-fare. They do +tell us, however, that they had some difficulty in getting used to so +novel an article of food. + +The Sioux and the white men held a grand council under an oak-tree, +from the top of which was flying the American flag. The head chief was +presented with a gold-laced uniform of the United States artillery, a +cocked hat and red feather. The lesser chiefs were also presented +with suitable gifts of lesser value. Various festivities followed the +conference. Next day another powwow was held at which the head chief, +Weucha, or Shake Hand, said:-- + +"'I see before me my great father's two sons. You see me and the rest +of our chiefs and warriors. We are very poor; we have neither powder, +nor ball, nor knives; and our women and children at the village have no +clothes. I wish that, as my brothers have given me a flag and a medal, +they would give something to those poor people, or let them stop and +trade with the first boat which comes up the river. I will bring the +chiefs of the Pawnees and Mahas together, and make peace between them; +but it is better that I should do it than my great father's sons, for +they will listen to me more readily. I will also take some chiefs to +your country in the spring; but before that time I cannot leave home. I +went formerly to the English, and they gave me a medal and some clothes: +when I went to the Spaniards they gave me a medal, but nothing to keep +it from my skin: but now you give me a medal and clothes. But still +we are poor; and I wish, brothers, you would give us something for our +squaws.'" + +When he sat down, Mahtoree, or White Crane, rose: + +"'I have listened,' said he, 'to what our father's words were +yesterday; and I am to-day glad to see how you have dressed our old +chief. I am a young man, and do not wish to take much; my fathers have +made me a chief; I had much sense before, but now I think I have more +than ever. What the old chief has declared I will confirm, and do +whatever he and you please; but I wish that you would take pity on us, +for we are very poor.' + +"Another chief, called Pawnawneahpahbe, then said: + +"'I am a young man, and know but little; I cannot speak well, but I +have listened to what you have told the old chief, and will do whatever +you agree.' + +"The same sentiments were then repeated by Aweawechache. + +"We were surprised," the journal says, "at finding that the first of +these titles means Struck by the Pawnee, and was occasioned by some blow +which the chief had received in battle from one of the Pawnee tribe. +The second is in English Half Man, which seemed a singular name for +a warrior, till it was explained to have its origin, probably, in the +modesty of the chief, who, on being told of his exploits, would say, +'I am no warrior, I am only half a man.' The other chiefs spoke very +little; but after they had finished, one of the warriors delivered a +speech, in which he declared he would support them. They promised to +make peace with the Ottoes and Missouris, the only nations with whom +they are at war. All these harangues concluded by describing the +distress of the nation: they begged us to have pity on them; to send +them traders; that they wanted powder and ball; and seemed anxious that +we should supply them with some of their great father's milk, the name +by which they distinguish ardent spirits. We gave some tobacco to each +of the chiefs, and a certificate to two of the warriors who attended +the chief We prevailed on M. Durion (interpreter) to remain here, and +accompany as many of the Sioux chiefs as he could collect to the seat of +government. We also gave his son a flag, some clothes, and provisions, +with directions to bring about a peace between the surrounding tribes, +and to convey some of their chiefs to see the President. + +"The Indians who have just left us are the Yanktons, a tribe of the +great nation of Sioux. These Yanktons are about two hundred men in +number, and inhabit the Jacques, Des Moines, and Sioux Rivers. In person +they are stout, well proportioned, and have a certain air of dignity and +boldness. In their dress they differ nothing from the other bands of the +nation whom we met afterwards." + +Of the Sioux let us say here, there are many bands, or subdivisions. +Some writers make eighteen of these principal branches. But the first +importance is given to the Sioux proper, or Dakotas. The name "Sioux" is +one of reproach, given by their enemies, and signifies "snake;" whereas +"Dakota" means "friend" or "ally." The Lewis and Clark journal says of +the Yankton-Sioux:-- + +"What struck us most was an institution peculiar to them and to the Kite +(Crow) Indians further to the westward, from whom it is said to have +been copied. It is an association of the most active and brave young +men, who are bound to each other by attachment, secured by a vow, never +to retreat before any danger, or give way to their enemies. In war they +go forward without sheltering themselves behind trees, or aiding their +natural valor by any artifice. Their punctilious determination not to +be turned from their course became heroic, or ridiculous, a short time +since, when the Yanktons were crossing the Missouri on the ice. A hole +lay immediately in their course, which might easily have been avoided +by going around. This the foremost of the band disdained to do, but +went straight forward and was lost. The others would have followed his +example, but were forcibly prevented by the rest of the tribe. These +young men sit, camp, and dance together, distinct from the rest of the +nation; they are generally about thirty or thirty-five years old, and +such is the deference paid to courage that their seats in council are +superior to those of the chiefs and their persons more respected. But, +as may be supposed, such indiscreet bravery will soon diminish the +numbers of those who practise it; so that the band is now reduced to +four warriors, who were among our visitors. These were the remains of +twenty-two who composed the society not long ago; but, in a battle with +the Kite (Crow) Indians of the Black Mountains, eighteen of them were +killed, and these four were dragged from the field by their companions." + +Just above the site of the city of Yankton, and near what is still known +as Bon Homme Island, Captain Clark explored a singular earth formation +in a bend of the river. This had all the appearance of an ancient +fortification, stretching across the bend and furnished with redoubts +and other features of a great fort. In the journal is given a glowing +account of the work and an elaborate map of the same. Modern research, +however, has proved that this strange arrangement of walls and parapets +is only a series of sand ridges formed by the currents of the river and +driftings of sand. Many of these so-called earthworks are situated on +the west bank of the Upper Missouri, in North Dakota and South Dakota. + +A few days later, the party saw a species of animal which they described +as "goats,"--very fleet, with short pronged horns inclining backward, +and with grayish hair, marked with white on the rump. This creature, +however, was the American antelope, then unknown to science, and first +described by Lewis and Clark. While visiting a strange dome-shaped +mountain, "resembling a cupola," and now known as "the Tower," the +explorers found the abode of another animal, heretofore unknown to them. +"About four acres of ground," says the journal, "was covered with small +holes." The account continues: "These are the residence of a little +animal, called by the French petit chien (little dog), which sit erect +near the mouth, and make a whistling noise, but, when alarmed, take +refuge in their holes. In order to bring them out we poured into one of +the holes five barrels of water without filling it, but we dislodged and +caught the owner. After digging down another of the holes for six feet, +we found, on running a pole into it, that we had not yet dug half-way to +the bottom: we discovered, however, two frogs in the hole, and near it +we killed a dark rattlesnake, which had swallowed a small prairie dog. +We were also informed, though we never witnessed the fact, that a sort +of lizard and a snake live habitually with these animals. The +petit chien are justly named, as they resemble a small dog in some +particulars, although they have also some points of similarity to the +squirrel. The head resembles the squirrel in every respect, except that +the ear is shorter; the tail like that of the ground squirrel; the toe +nails are long, the fur is fine, and the long hair is gray." + +Great confusion has been caused in the minds of readers on account of +there being another burrowing animal, called by Lewis and Clark "the +burrowing squirrel," which resembles the petit chien in some respects. +But the little animal described here is now well known as the +prairie-dog,--an unfortunate and misleading name. It is in no sense a +species of dog. The creature commonly weighs about three pounds, and its +note resembles that of a toy-dog. It is a species of marmot; it subsists +on grass roots and other vegetable products; its flesh is delicate and, +when fat, of good flavor. The writer of these lines, when crossing the +great plains, in early times, found the "prairie-dogs" excellent eating, +but difficult to kill; they are expert at diving into their holes at the +slightest signal of danger. + +The following days they saw large herds of buffalo, and the copses of +timber appeared to contain elk and deer, "just below Cedar Island," +adds the journal, "on a hill to the south, is the backbone of a fish, +forty-five feet long, tapering towards the tail, and in a perfect +state of petrifaction, fragments of which were collected and sent to +Washington." This was not a fish, but the fossil remains of a reptile of +one of the earliest geological periods. Here, too, the party saw immense +herds of buffalo, thousands in number, some of which they killed for +their meat and skins. They also saw elk, deer, turkeys, grouse, beaver, +and prairie-dogs. The journal bitterly complains of the "moschetoes," +which were very troublesome. As mosquitoes we now know them. + +Oddly enough, the journal sometimes speaks of "goats" and sometimes of +"antelopes," and the same animal is described in both instances. Here is +a good story of the fleetness of the beautiful creature:-- + +"Of all the animals we had seen, the antelope seems to possess the most +wonderful fleetness. Shy and timorous, they generally repose only on +the ridges, which command a view of all the approaches of an enemy: +the acuteness of their sight distinguishes the most distant danger; +the delicate sensibility of their smell defeats the precautions of +concealment; and, when alarmed, their rapid career seems more like +the flight of birds than the movements of a quadruped. After many +unsuccessful attempts, Captain Lewis at last, by winding around the +ridges, approached a party of seven, which were on an eminence towards +which the wind was unfortunately blowing. The only male of the party +frequently encircled the summit of the hill, as if to announce any +danger to the females, which formed a group at the top. Although they +did not see Captain Lewis, the smell alarmed them, and they fled when he +was at the distance of two hundred yards: he immediately ran to the +spot where they had been; a ravine concealed them from him; but the next +moment they appeared on a second ridge, at the distance of three miles. +He doubted whether they could be the same; but their number, and the +extreme rapidity with which they continued their course, convinced +him that they must have gone with a speed equal to that of the +most distinguished race-horse. Among our acquisitions to-day were a +mule-deer, a magpie, a common deer, and buffalo: Captain Lewis also +saw a hare, and killed a rattlesnake near the burrows of the barking +squirrels." + +By "barking squirrels" the reader must understand that the animal better +known as the prairie-dog is meant; and the mule-deer, as the explorers +called it, was not a hybrid, but a deer with very long ears, better +known afterwards as the black-tailed deer. + +At the Big Bend of the Missouri, in the heart of what is now South +Dakota, while camped on a sand-bar, the explorers had a startling +experience. "Shortly after midnight," says the journal, "the sleepers +were startled by the sergeant on guard crying out that the sand-bar was +sinking, and the alarm was timely given; for scarcely had they got off +with the boats before the bank under which they had been lying fell in; +and by the time the opposite shore was reached, the ground on which they +had been encamped sunk also. A man who was sent to step off the distance +across the head of the bend, made it but two thousand yards, while its +circuit is thirty miles." + +The next day, three Sioux boys swam the river and told them that two +parties of their nation, one of eighty lodges, and one of sixty lodges, +were camped up the river, waiting to have a palaver with the white +explorers. These were Teton Sioux, and the river named for them still +bears that title. + + + + +Chapter V -- From the Tetons to the Mandans + +"On the morning of September 25th," says the journal, "we raised a +flagstaff and an awning, under which we assembled, with all the party +parading under arms. The chiefs and warriors, from the camps two miles +up the river, met us, about fifty or sixty in number, and after smoking +we delivered them a speech; but as our Sioux interpreter, M. Durion, had +been left with the Yanktons, we were obliged to make use of a Frenchman +who could not speak fluently, and therefore we curtailed our harangue. +After this we went through the ceremony of acknowledging the chiefs, by +giving to the grand chief a medal, a flag of the United States, a laced +uniform coat, a cocked hat and feather; to the two other chiefs, a +medal and some small presents; and to two warriors of consideration, +certificates. The name of the great chief is Untongasabaw, or +Black Buffalo; the second, Tortohonga, or the Partisan; the third, +Tartongawaka, or Buffalo Medicine; the name of one of the warriors was +Wawzinggo; that of the second, Matocoquepa, or Second Bear. We then +invited the chiefs on board, and showed them the boat, the air-gun, and +such curiosities as we thought might amuse them. In this we succeeded +too well; for, after giving them a quarter of a glass of whiskey, which +they seemed to like very much, and sucked the bottle, it was with much +difficulty that we could get rid of them. They at last accompanied +Captain Clark on shore, in a pirogue with five men; but it seems they +had formed a design to stop us; for no sooner had the party landed than +three of the Indians seized the cable of the pirogue, and one of the +soldiers of the chief put his arms round the mast. The second chief, who +affected intoxication, then said that we should not go on; that they +had not received presents enough from us. Captain Clark told him that +he would not be prevented from going on; that we were not squaws, but +warriors; that we were sent by our great father, who could in a moment +exterminate them. The chief replied that he too had warriors, and was +proceeding to offer personal violence to Captain Clark, who immediately +drew his sword, and made a signal to the boat to prepare for action. The +Indians, who surrounded him, drew their arrows from their quivers, +and were bending their bows, when the swivel in the boat was instantly +pointed towards them, and twelve of our most determined men jumped into +the pirogue and joined Captain Clark. This movement made an impression +on them, for the grand chief ordered the young men away from the +pirogue, and they withdrew and held a short council with the warriors. +Being unwilling to irritate them, Captain Clark then went forward, and +offered his hand to the first and second chiefs, who refused to take it. +He then turned from them and got into the pirogue; but he had not got +more than ten paces, when both the chiefs and two of the warriors waded +in after him, and he brought them on board. We then proceeded on for a +mile, and anchored off a willow island, which, from the circumstances +which had just occurred, we called Bad-humored Island." + +The policy of firmness and gentleness, which Lewis and Clark always +pursued when treating with the Indians, had its good results at this +time. What might have been a bloody encounter was averted, and next day +the Indians contritely came into camp and asked that their squaws and +children might see the white men and their boats, which would be to them +a novel sight. This was agreed to, and after the expedition had sailed +up the river and had been duly admired by a great crowd of men, women, +and children, the Tetons invited the white men to a dance. The journal +adds:-- + +"Captains Lewis and Clark, who went on shore one after the other, were +met on landing by ten well-dressed young men, who took them up in a robe +highly decorated and carried them to a large council-house, where they +were placed on a dressed buffalo-skin by the side of the grand chief. +The hall or council-room was in the shape of three-quarters of a circle, +covered at the top and sides with skins well dressed and sewed together. +Under this shelter sat about seventy men, forming a circle round the +chief, before whom were placed a Spanish flag and the one we had given +them yesterday. This left a vacant circle of about six feet diameter, +in which the pipe of peace was raised on two forked sticks, about six +or eight inches from the ground, and under it the down of the swan was +scattered. A large fire, in which they were cooking provisions, stood +near, and in the centre about four hundred pounds of buffalo meat as a +present for us. As soon as we were seated, an old man got up, and after +approving what we had done, begged us take pity on their unfortunate +situation. To this we replied with assurances of protection. After he +had ceased, the great chief rose and delivered a harangue to the same +effect; then with great solemnity he took some of the most delicate +parts of the dog which was cooked for the festival, and held it to the +flag by way of sacrifice; this done, he held up the pipe of peace, and +first pointed it toward the heavens, then to the four quarters of the +globe, then to the earth, made a short speech, lighted the pipe, and +presented it to us. We smoked, and he again harangued his people, after +which the repast was served up to us. It consisted of the dog which they +had just been cooking, this being a great dish among the Sioux, and used +on all festivals; to this were added pemitigon, a dish made of buffalo +meat, dried or jerked, and then pounded and mixed raw with grease and +a kind of ground potato, dressed like the preparation of Indian corn +called hominy, to which it is little inferior. Of all these luxuries, +which were placed before us in platters with horn spoons, we took the +pemitigon and the potato, which we found good, but we could as yet +partake but sparingly of the dog." + +The "pemitigon" mentioned here is better known as pemmican, a sort of +dried meat, which may be eaten as prepared, or pounded fine and cooked +with other articles of food. This festival concluded with a grand dance, +which at midnight wound up the affair. + +As the description of these Tetons, given by Lewis and Clark, will give +the reader a good idea of the manners, customs, and personal appearance +of most of the Sioux nation, we will copy the journal in full. It is as +follows: + +"The tribe which we this day saw are a part of the great Sioux nation, +and are known by the name of the Teton Okandandas: they are about two +hundred men in number, and their chief residence is on both sides of the +Missouri, between the Chayenne and Teton Rivers. In their persons they +are rather ugly and ill-made, their legs and arms being too small, their +cheek-bones high, and their eyes projecting. The females, with the same +character of form, are more handsome; and both sexes appear cheerful and +sprightly; but in our intercourse with them we discovered that they were +cunning and vicious. + +"The men shave the hair off their heads, except a small tuft on the top, +which they suffer to grow, and wear in plaits over the shoulders; to +this they seem much attached, as the loss of it is the usual sacrifice +at the death of near relations. In full dress, the men of consideration +wear a hawk's feather, or calumet feather worked with porcupine quills, +and fastened to the top of the head, from which it falls back. The face +and body are generally painted with a mixture of grease and coal. Over +the shoulders is a loose robe or mantle of buffalo skin dressed white, +adorned with porcupine quills, loosely fixed, so as to make a jingling +noise when in motion, and painted with various uncouth figures, +unintelligible to us, but to them emblematic of military exploits or +any other incident: the hair of the robe is worn next the skin in fair +weather, but when it rains the hair is put outside, and the robe is +either thrown over the arm or wrapped round the body, all of which it +may cover. Under this, in the winter season, they wear a kind of shirt +resembling ours, made either of skin or cloth, and covering the arms and +body. Round the middle is fixed a girdle of cloth, or procured dressed +elk-skin, about an inch in width, and closely tied to the body; to this +is attached a piece of cloth, or blanket, or skin, about a foot wide, +which passes between the legs, and is tucked under the girdle both +before and behind. From the hip to the ankle is covered by leggins of +dressed antelope skins, with seams at the sides two inches in width, and +ornamented by little tufts of hair, the produce of the scalps they have +made in war, which are scattered down the leg. The winter moccasins +are of dressed buffalo skin, the hair being worn inward, and soled with +thick elk-skin parchment; those for summer are of deer or elk-skin, +dressed without the hair, and with soles of elk-skin. On great +occasions, or whenever they are in full dress, the young men drag after +them the entire skin of a polecat fixed to the heel of the moccasin. +Another skin of the same animal, either tucked into the girdle or +carried in the hand, serves as a pouch for their tobacco, or what the +French traders call bois roule.(1) This is the inner bark of a species +of red willow, which, being dried in the sun or over the fire, is, +rubbed between the hands and broken into small pieces, and used alone or +mixed with tobacco. The pipe is generally of red earth, the stem made of +ash, about three or four feet long, and highly decorated with feathers, +hair, and porcupine-quills. . . . + + + (1) This is bois roule, or "rolled wood," a poor kind of + tobacco rolled with various kinds of leaves, such as the + sumach and dogwood. The Indian name is kinnikinick. + + +"While on shore to-day we witnessed a quarrel between two squaws, which +appeared to be growing every moment more boisterous, when a man came +forward, at whose approach every one seemed terrified and ran. He took +the squaws and without any ceremony whipped them severely. On inquiring +into the nature of such summary justice, we learned that this man was +an officer well known to this and many other tribes. His duty is to keep +the peace, and the whole interior police of the village is confided to +two or three of these officers, who are named by the chief and remain in +power some days, at least till the chief appoints a successor. They +seem to be a sort of constable or sentinel, since they are always on +the watch to keep tranquillity during the day and guard the camp in the +night. The short duration of the office is compensated by its authority. +His power is supreme, and in the suppression of any riot or disturbance +no resistance to him is suffered; his person is sacred, and if in the +execution of his duty he strikes even a chief of the second class, +he cannot be punished for this salutary insolence. In general he +accompanies the person of the chief, and when ordered to any duty, +however dangerous, it is a point of honor rather to die than to refuse +obedience. Thus, when they attempted to stop us yesterday, the chief +ordered one of these men to take possession of the boat; he immediately +put his arms around the mast, and, as we understood, no force except the +command of the chief would have induced him to release his hold. Like +the other men his body is blackened, but his distinguishing mark is a +collection of two or three raven-skins fixed to the girdle behind the +back in such a way that the tails stick out horizontally from the body. +On his head, too, is a raven-skin split into two parts, and tied so as +to let the beak project from the forehead." + +When the party of explorers subsequently made ready to leave, signs of +reluctance to have them go were apparent among the Indians. Finally, +several of the chief warriors sat on the rope that held the boat to +the shore. Irritated by this, Captain Lewis got ready to fire upon the +warriors, but, anxious to avoid bloodshed, he gave them more tobacco, +which they wanted, and then said to the chief, "You have told us that +you were a great man, and have influence; now show your influence by +taking the rope from those men, and we will then go on without further +trouble." This appeal to the chieftain's pride had the desired effect. +The warriors were compelled to give up the rope, which was delivered on +board, and the party set sail with a fresh breeze from the southeast. + +The explorers were soon out of the country of the Teton Sioux and into +that of the Ricaras, or, as these Indians are more commonly called, the +Rickarees. + +On the first day of October they passed the mouth of a river incorrectly +known as Dog River, as if corrupted from the French word chien. But the +true name is Cheyenne, from the Indians who bear that title. The stream +rises in the region called the Black Mountains by Lewis and Clark, on +account of the great quantity of dark cedar and pine trees that covered +the hills. This locality is now known as the Black Hills, in the midst +of which is the famous mining district of Deadwood. In these mountains, +according to Lewis and Clark, were to be found "great quantities +of goats, white bear, prairie cocks, and a species of animal which +resembled a small elk, with large circular horns." By the "white bear" +the reader must understand that the grizzly bear is meant. Although this +animal, which was first discovered and described by Lewis and Clark, is +commonly referred to in the earlier pages of the journal as "white," the +error naturally came from a desire to distinguish it from the black +and the cinnamon-colored bears. Afterwards, the journal refers to this +formidable creature as the grizzly, and again as the grisly. Certainly, +the bear was a grizzled gray; but the name "grisly," that is to say, +horrible, or frightful, fitted him very well. The Latin name, _ursus +horribilis_ is not unlike one of those of Lewis and Clark's selection. +The animals with circular curled horns, which the explorers thought +resembled a small elk, are now known as the Rocky Mountain sheep, or +bighorn. They very little resemble sheep, however, except in color, +head, horns, and feet. They are now so scarce as to be almost extinct. +They were among the discoveries of Lewis and Clark. The prairie cock +is known to western sportsmen as "prairie chicken;" it is a species of +grouse. + +It was now early in October, and the weather became very cool. So great +is the elevation of those regions that, although the days might be +oppressively warm, the nights were cold and white frosts were frequent. +Crossing the Rocky Mountains at the South Pass, far south of Lewis +and Clark's route, emigrants who suffered from intense heat during the +middle of day found water in their pails frozen solid in the morning. + +The Rickarees were very curious and inquisitive regarding the white men. +But the journal adds: "The object which appeared to astonish the Indians +most was Captain Clark's servant York, a remarkably stout, strong negro. +They had never seen a being of that color, and therefore flocked round +him to examine the extraordinary monster. By way of amusement, he told +them that he had once been a wild animal, and been caught and tamed by +his master; and to convince them, showed them feats of strength which, +added to his looks, made him more terrible than we wished him to be." + +"On October 10th," says the journal, "the weather was fine, and as we +were desirous of assembling the whole nation at once, we despatched Mr. +Gravelines (a trader)--who, with Mr. Tabeau, another French trader, had +breakfasted with us--to invite the chiefs of the two upper villages to +a conference. They all assembled at one o'clock, and after the usual +ceremonies we addressed them in the same way in which we had already +spoken to the Ottoes and Sioux. We then made or acknowledged three +chiefs, one for each of the three villages; giving to each a flag, a +medal, a red coat, a cocked hat and feather, also some goods, paint and +tobacco, which they divided among themselves. After this the air-gun was +exhibited, very much to their astonishment, nor were they less surprised +at the color and manner of York. On our side we were equally gratified +at discovering that these Ricaras made use of no spirituous liquors of +any kind, the example of the traders who bring it to them, so far +from tempting, having in fact disgusted them. Supposing that it was as +agreeable to them as to the other Indians, we had at first offered them +whiskey; but they refused it with this sensible remark, that they were +surprised that their father should present to them a liquor which would +make them fools. On another occasion they observed to Mr. Tabeau that no +man could be their friend who tried to lead them into such follies." + +Presents were exchanged by the Indians and the white men; among the +gifts from the former was a quantity of a large, rich bean, which grows +wild and is collected by mice. The Indians hunt for the mice's deposits +and cook and eat them. The Rickarees had a grand powwow with the white +chiefs and, after accepting presents, agreed to preserve peace with +all men, red or white. On the thirteenth of the month the explorers +discovered a stream which they named Stone-Idol Creek, on account of two +stones, resembling human figures, which adorn its banks. The creek is +now known as Spring River, and is in Campbell County, South Dakota. +Concerning the stone images the Indians gave this tradition:-- + +"A young man was deeply enamoured with a girl whose parents refused +their consent to the marriage. The youth went out into the fields to +mourn his misfortunes; a sympathy of feeling led the lady to the same +spot, and the faithful dog would not cease to follow his master. After +wandering together and having nothing but grapes to subsist on, they +were at last converted into stone, which, beginning at the feet, +gradually invaded the nobler parts, leaving nothing unchanged but a +bunch of grapes which the female holds in her hand to this day. Whenever +the Ricaras pass these sacred stones, they stop to make some offering +of dress to propitiate these deities. Such is the account given by the +Ricara chief, which we had no mode of examining, except that we found +one part of the story very agreeably confirmed; for on the river near +where the event is said to have occurred we found a greater abundance of +fine grapes than we had yet seen." + +While at their last camp in the country now known as South Dakota, +October 14, 1804, one of the soldiers, tried by a court-martial for +mutinous conduct, was sentenced to receive seventy-five lashes on the +bare back. The sentence was carried out then and there. The Rickaree +chief, who accompanied the party for a time, was so affected by the +sight that he cried aloud during the whole proceeding. When the reasons +for the punishment were explained to him, he acknowledged the justice of +the sentence, but said he would have punished the offender with +death. His people, he added, never whip even their children at any age +whatever. + +On the eighteenth of October, the party reached Cannonball River, which +rises in the Black Hills and empties in the Missouri in Morton County, +North Dakota. Its name is derived from the perfectly round, smooth, +black stones that line its bed and shores. Here they saw great numbers +of antelope and herds of buffalo, and of elk. They killed six fallow +deer; and next day they counted fifty-two herds of buffalo and three +herds of elk at one view; they also observed deer, wolves, and pelicans +in large numbers. + +The ledges in the bluffs along the river often held nests of the calumet +bird, or golden eagle. These nests, which are apparently resorted to, +year after year, by the same pair of birds, are usually out of reach, +except by means of ropes by which the hunters are let down from the +cliffs overhead. The tail-feathers of the bird are twelve in number, +about a foot long, and are pure white except at the tip, which is +jet-black. So highly prized are these by the Indians that they have been +known to exchange a good horse for two feathers. + +The party saw here a great many elk, deer, antelope, and buffalo, and +these last were dogged along their way by wolves who follow them to feed +upon those that die by accident, or are too weak to keep up with the +herd. Sometimes the wolves would pounce upon a calf, too young and +feeble to trot with the other buffalo; and although the mother made an +effort to save her calf, the creature was left to the hungry wolves, the +herd moving along without delay. + +On the twenty-first of October, the explorers reached a creek to which +the Indians gave the name of Chisshetaw, now known as Heart River, +which, rising in Stark County, North Dakota, and running circuitously +through Morton County, empties into the Missouri opposite the city of +Bismarck. At this point the Northern Pacific Railway now crosses the +Missouri; and here, where is built the capital of North Dakota, began, +in those days, a series of Mandan villages, with the people of which +the explorers were to become tolerably well acquainted; for it had been +decided that the increasing cold of the weather would compel them to +winter in this region. But they were as yet uncertain as to the exact +locality at which they would build their camp of winter. Here they met +one of the grand chiefs of the Mandans, who was on a hunting excursion +with his braves. This chief greeted with much ceremony the Rickaree +chief who accompanied the exploring party. The Mandans and Rickarees +were ancient enemies, but, following the peaceful councils of the white +men, the chiefs professed amity and smoked together the pipe of peace. +A son of the Mandan chief was observed to have lost both of his little +fingers, and when the strangers asked how this happened, they were told +that the fingers had been cut off (according to the Mandan custom) to +show the grief of the young man at the loss of some of his relations. + + + + +Chapter VI -- Winter among the Mandans + +Before finally selecting the spot on which to build their winter +quarters, Lewis and Clark held councils with the chiefs of the tribes +who were to be their neighbors during the cold season. These were +Mandans, Annahaways, and Minnetarees, tribes living peacefully in the +same region of country. The principal Mandan chief was Black Cat; White +Buffalo Robe Unfolded represented the Annahaways, and the Minnetaree +chief was Black Moccasin. This last-named chief could not come to the +council, but was represented by Caltahcota, or Cherry on a Bush. The +palaver being over, presents were distributed. The account says:-- + +"One chief of each town was acknowledged by a gift of a flag, a medal +with the likeness of the President of the United States, a uniform coat, +hat and feather. To the second chiefs we gave a medal representing some +domestic animals and a loom for weaving; to the third chiefs, medals +with the impressions of a farmer sowing grain. A variety of other +presents were distributed, but none seemed to give them more +satisfaction than an iron corn-mill which we gave to the Mandans. . . . + +"In the evening the prairie took fire, either by accident or design, and +burned with great fury, the whole plain being enveloped in flames. +So rapid was its progress that a man and a woman were burned to death +before they could reach a place of safety; another man, with his wife +and child, were much burned, and several other persons narrowly escaped +destruction. Among the rest, a boy of the half white breed escaped +unhurt in the midst of the flames; his safety was ascribed to the great +medicine spirit, who had preserved him on account of his being white. +But a much more natural cause was the presence of mind of his mother, +who, seeing no hopes of carrying off her son, threw him on the ground, +and, covering him with the fresh hide of a buffalo, escaped herself from +the flames. As soon as the fire had passed, she returned and found him +untouched, the skin having prevented the flame from reaching the grass +on which he lay." + +Next day, says the journal,-- + +"We were visited by two persons from the lower village: one, the Big +White, the chief of the village; the other, the Chayenne, called the Big +Man: they had been hunting, and did not return yesterday early enough to +attend the council. At their request we repeated part of our speech of +yesterday, and put the medal round the neck of the chief. Captain +Clark took a pirogue and went up the river in search of a good +wintering-place, and returned after going seven miles to the lower point +of an island on the north side, about one mile in length. He found the +banks on the north side high, with coal occasionally, and the country +fine on all sides; but the want of wood, and the scarcity of game up the +river, induced us to decide on fixing ourselves lower down during the +winter. In the evening our men danced among themselves, to the great +amusement of the Indians." + +It may be said here that the incident of a life saved from fire by a +raw-hide, originally related by Lewis and Clark, is the foundation of +a great many similar stories of adventures among the Indians. Usually, +however, it is a wise and well-seasoned white trapper who saves his life +by this device. + +Having found a good site for their winter camp, the explorers now built +a number of huts, which they called Fort Mandan. The place was on the +north bank of the Missouri River, in what is now McLean County, North +Dakota, about sixteen hundred miles up the river from St. Louis, and +seven or eight miles below the mouth of Big Knife River. On the opposite +bank, years later, the United States built a military post known as Fort +Clark, which may be found on some of the present-day maps. The huts were +built of logs, and were arranged in two rows, four rooms in each hut, +the whole number being placed in the form of an angle, with a stockade, +or picket, across the two outer ends of the angle, in which was a gate, +kept locked at night. The roofs of the huts slanted upward from the +inner side of the rows, making the outer side of each hut eighteen feet +high; and the lofts of these were made warm and comfortable with dry +grass mixed with clay, Here they were continually visited during the +winter by Indians from all the region around. Here, too, they secured +the services of an interpreter, one Chaboneau, who continued with them +to the end. This man's wife, Sacajawea, whose Indian name was translated +"Bird Woman," had been captured from the Snake Indians and sold to +Chaboneau, who married her. She was "a good creature, of a mild and +gentle disposition, greatly attached to the whites." In the expedition +she proved herself more valuable to the explorers than her husband, and +Lewis and Clark always speak of her in terms of respect and admiration. + +It should not be understood that all the interpreters employed by white +men on such expeditions wholly knew the spoken language of the tribes +among whom they travelled. To some extent they relied upon the universal +language of signs to make themselves understood, and this method of +talking is known to all sorts and kinds of Indians. Thus, two fingers of +the right hand placed astraddle the wrist of the left hand signifies a +man on horseback; and the number of men on horseback is quickly added by +holding up the requisite number of fingers. Sleep is described by gently +inclining the head on the hand, and the number of "sleeps," or nights, +is indicated by the fingers. Killed, or dead, is described by closed +eyes and a sudden fall of the head on the talker's chest; and so on, an +easily understood gesture, with a few Indian words, being sufficient to +tell a long story very clearly. + +Lewis and Clark discovered here a species of ermine before unknown +to science. They called it "a weasel, perfectly white except at the +extremity of the tail, which was black." This animal, highly prized on +account of its pretty fur, was not scientifically described until as +late as 1829. It is a species of stoat. + +The wars of some of the Indian tribes gave Lewis and Clark much trouble +and uneasiness. The Sioux were at war with the Minnetarees (Gros +Ventres, or Big Bellies); and the Assiniboins, who lived further to the +north, continually harassed the Sioux and the Mandans, treating these as +the latter did the Rickarees. The white chiefs had their hands full +all winter while trying to preserve peace among these quarrelsome and +thieving tribes, their favorite game being to steal each other's horses. +The Indian method of caring for their horses in the cold winter was +to let them shift for themselves during the day, and to take them into +their own lodges at night where they were fed with the juicy, brittle +twigs of the cottonwood tree. With this spare fodder the animals thrive +and keep their coats fine and glossy. + +Late in November, a collision between the Sioux and the Mandans became +almost certain, in consequence of the Sioux having attacked a small +hunting party of the Mandans, killing one, wounding two, and capturing +nine horses. Captain Clark mustered and armed twenty-four of his men, +crossed over into the Mandan village and offered to lead the Indians +against their enemies. The offer was declined on account of the deep +snows which prevented a march; but the incident made friends for white +men, and the tidings of it had a wholesome effect on the other tribes. + +"The whole religion of the Mandans," like that of many other savage +tribes, says the journal, "consists in the belief of one Great Spirit +presiding over their destinies. This Being must be in the nature of a +good genius, since it is associated with the healing art, and 'great +spirit' is synonymous with 'great medicine,' a name applied to +everything which they do not comprehend. Each individual selects for +himself the particular object of his devotion, which is termed his +medicine, and is either some invisible being, or more commonly some +animal, which thenceforward becomes his protector or his intercessor +with the Great Spirit, to propitiate whom every attention is lavished +and every personal consideration is sacrificed. 'I was lately owner of +seventeen horses,' said a Mandan to us one day, 'but I have offered them +all up to my medicine and am now poor.' He had in reality taken all his +wealth, his horses, into the plain, and, turning them loose, committed +them to the care of his medicine and abandoned them forever. The horses, +less religious, took care of themselves, and the pious votary travelled +home on foot." + +To this day, all the Northwest Indians speak of anything that is highly +useful or influential as "great medicine." + +One cold December day, a Mandan chief invited the explorers to join them +in a grand buffalo hunt. The journal adds:-- + +"Captain Clark with fifteen men went out and found the Indians engaged +in killing buffalo. The hunters, mounted on horseback and armed with +bows and arrows, encircle the herd and gradually drive them into a plain +or an open place fit for the movements of horse; they then ride in among +them, and singling out a buffalo, a female being preferred, go as close +as possible and wound her with arrows till they think they have +given the mortal stroke; when they pursue another, till the quiver is +exhausted. If, which rarely happens, the wounded buffalo attacks the +hunter, he evades his blow by the agility of his horse, which is trained +for the combat with great dexterity. When they have killed the requisite +number they collect their game, and the squaws and attendants come up +from the rear and skin and dress the animals. Captain Clark killed ten +buffalo, of which five only were brought to the fort; the rest, which +could not be conveyed home, being seized by the Indians, among whom the +custom is that whenever a buffalo is found dead without an arrow or +any particular mark, he is the property of the finder; so that often a +hunter secures scarcely any of the game he kills, if the arrow happens +to fall off." + +The weather now became excessively cold, the mercury often going +thirty-two degrees below zero. Notwithstanding this, however, the +Indians kept up their outdoor sports, one favorite game of which +resembled billiards. But instead of a table, the players had an open +flooring, about fifty yards long, and the balls were rings of stone, +shot along the flooring by means of sticks like billiard-cues. The white +men had their sports, and they forbade the Indians to visit them on +Christmas Day, as this was one of their "great medicine days." The +American flag was hoisted on the fort and saluted with a volley of +musketry. The men danced among themselves; their best provisions +were brought out and "the day passed," says the journal, "in great +festivity." + +The party also celebrated New Year's Day by similar festivities. Sixteen +of the men were given leave to go up to the first Mandan village with +their musical instruments, where they delighted the whole tribe with +their dances, one of the French voyageurs being especially applauded +when he danced on his hands with his head downwards. The dancers and +musicians were presented with several buffalo-robes and a large quantity +of Indian corn. The cold grew more intense, and on the tenth of the +month the mercury stood at forty degrees below zero. Some of the men +were badly frost-bitten, and a young Indian, about thirteen years old, +who had been lost in the snows, came into the fort. The journal says:-- + +"His father, who came last night to inquire after him very anxiously, +had sent him in the afternoon to the fort; he was overtaken by the +night, and was obliged to sleep on the snow with no covering except a +pair of antelope-skin moccasins and leggins, and a buffalo-robe. His +feet being frozen, we put them into cold water, and gave him every +attention in our power. About the same time an Indian who had also been +missing returned to the fort. Although his dress was very thin, and he +had slept on the snow without a fire, he had not suffered the slightest +inconvenience. We have indeed observed that these Indians support the +rigors of the season in a way which we had hitherto thought impossible. +A more pleasing reflection occurred at seeing the warm interest which +the situation of these two persons had excited in the village. The boy +had been a prisoner, and adopted from charity; yet the distress of the +father proved that he felt for him the tenderest affection. The man was +a person of no distinction, yet the whole village was full of anxiety +for his safety; and, when they came to us, borrowed a sleigh to bring +them home with ease if they had survived, or to carry their bodies if +they had perished. . . . + +"January 13. Nearly one half of the Mandan nation passed down the river +to hunt for several days. In these excursions, men, women, and children, +with their dogs, all leave the village together, and, after discovering +a spot convenient for the game, fix their tents; all the family bear +their part in the labor, and the game is equally divided among the +families of the tribe. When a single hunter returns from the chase with +more than is necessary for his own immediate consumption, the neighbors +are entitled by custom to a share of it: they do not, however, ask for +it, but send a squaw, who, without saying anything, sits down by the +door of the lodge till the master understands the hint, and gives her +gratuitously a part for her family." + +By the end of January, 1805, the weather had so far moderated that the +explorers thought they might cut their boats from the ice in the river +and prepare to resume their voyage; but the ice being three feet thick, +they made no progress and were obliged to give up the attempt. Their +stock of meat was low, although they had had good success when the cold +was not too severe to prevent them from hunting deer, elk, and buffalo. +The Mandans, who were careless in providing food for future supplies, +also suffered for want of meat, sometimes going for days without flesh +food. Captain Clark and eighteen men went down the river in search of +game. The hunters, after being out nine days, returned and reported that +they had killed forty deer, three buffalo, and sixteen elk. But much of +the game was lean and poor, and the wolves, who devour everything left +out at night, had stolen a quantity of the flesh. Four men, with sleds, +were sent out to bring into camp the meat, which had been secured +against wolves by being stored in pens. These men were attacked by +Sioux, about one hundred in number, who robbed them of their game +and two of their three horses. Captain Lewis, with twenty-four men, +accompanied by some of the Mandans, set out in pursuit of the marauders. +They were unsuccessful, however, but, having found a part of their game +untouched, they brought it back, and this, with other game killed after +their chase of the Sioux, gave them three thousand pounds of meat; they +had killed thirty-six deer, fourteen elk, and one wolf. + +By the latter part of February, the party were able to get their boats +from the ice. These were dragged ashore, and the work of making them +ready for their next voyage was begun. As the ice in the river began to +break up, the Mandans had great sport chasing across the floating cakes +of ice the buffalo who were tempted over by the appearance of green, +growing grass on the other side. The Indians were very expert in their +pursuit of the animals, which finally slipped from their insecure +footing on the drifting ice, and were killed. + +At this point, April 7, 1805, the escorting party, the voyageurs, and +one interpreter, returned down the river in their barge. This party +consisted of thirteen persons, all told, and to them were intrusted +several packages of specimens for President Jefferson, with letters +and official reports. The presents for Mr. Jefferson, according to the +journal, "consisted of a stuffed male and female antelope, with their +skeletons, a weasel, three squirrels from the Rocky Mountains, the +skeleton of a prairie wolf, those of a white and gray hare, a male +and female blaireau, (badger) or burrowing dog of the prairie, with a +skeleton of the female, two burrowing squirrels, a white weasel, and the +skin of the louservia (loup-servier, or lynx), the horns of a mountain +ram, or big-horn, a pair of large elk horns, the horns and tail of a +black-tailed deer, and a variety of skins, such as those of the red fox, +white hare, marten, yellow bear, obtained from the Sioux; also a number +of articles of Indian dress, among which was a buffalo robe representing +a battle fought about eight years since between the Sioux and Ricaras +against the Mandans and Minnetarees, in which the combatants are +represented on horseback. . . . Such sketches, rude and imperfect as +they are, delineate the predominant character of the savage nations. +If they are peaceable and inoffensive, the drawings usually consist of +local scenery and their favorite diversions. If the band are rude and +ferocious, we observe tomahawks, scalping-knives, bows and arrows, and +all the engines of destruction.--A Mandan bow, and quiver of arrows; +also some Ricara tobacco-seed, and an ear of Mandan corn: to these were +added a box of plants, another of insects, and three cases containing a +burrowing squirrel, a prairie hen, and four magpies, all alive." . . . + +The articles reached Mr. Jefferson safely and were long on view at his +Virginia residence, Monticello. They were subsequently dispersed, and +some found their way to Peale's Museum, Philadelphia. Dr. Cones, the +zealous editor of the latest and fullest edition of Lewis and Clark's +narrative, says that some of the specimens of natural history were +probably extant in 1893. + + + + +Chapter VII -- From Fort Mandan to the Yellowstone + +Up to this time, the expedition had passed through regions from which +vague reports had been brought by the few white men who, as hunters and +trappers in pursuit of fur-bearing game, had dared to venture into these +trackless wildernesses. Now they were to launch out into the mysterious +unknown, from which absolutely no tidings had ever been brought by white +men. The dim reports of Indians who had hunted through some parts of the +region were unreliable, and, as they afterwards proved, were often as +absurdly false as if they had been fairy tales. + +Here, too, they parted from some of their comrades who were to return +to "the United States," as the explorers fondly termed their native +country, although the strange lands through which they were voyaging +were now a part of the American Republic. The despatches sent to +Washington by these men contained the first official report from Lewis +and Clark since their departure from St. Louis, May 16, 1803; and they +were the last word from the explorers until their return in September, +1806. During all that long interval, the adventurers were not heard of +in the States. No wonder that croakers declared that the little party +had been cut off to perish miserably in the pathless woods that cover +the heart of the continent. + +But they set out on the long journey with light hearts. In his journal, +whose spelling and punctuation are not always models for the faithful +imitation of school-boys, Captain Lewis set down this observation:-- + +"Our vessels consisted of six small canoes, and two large perogues. This +little fleet altho' not quite so respectable as those of Columbus or +Capt. Cook, were still viewed by us with as much pleasure as those +deservedly famed adventurers ever beheld theirs; and I dare say with +quite as much anxiety for their safety and preservation. We were now +about to penetrate a country at least two thousand miles in width, on +which the foot of civilized man had never trodden; the good or evil +it had in store for us was for experiment yet to determine, and these +little vessels contained every article by which we were to expect to +subsist or defend ourselves. However as the state of mind in which we +are, generally gives the colouring to events, when the imagination is +suffered to wander into futurity, the picture which now presented itself +to me was a most pleasing one. Entertaining as I do the most confident +hope of succeeding in a voyage which had formed a darling project of +mine for the last ten years, I could but esteem this moment of our +departure as among the most happy of my life." + +The barge sent down the river to St. Louis was in command of Corporal +Wharfington; and with him were six private soldiers, two French +voyageurs, Joseph Gravelines (pilot and interpreter), and Brave Raven, a +Ricara (or Arikara) chief who was to be escorted to Washington to visit +the President. The party was also intrusted with sundry gifts for the +President, among them being natural history specimens, living and dead, +and a number of Indian articles which would be objects of curiosity in +Washington. + +The long voyage of the main party began on the 8th of April, 1805, early +passing the mouth of the Big Knife River, one of the five considerable +streams that fall into the Missouri from the westward in this region; +the other streams are the Owl, the Grand, the Cannonball, and the Heart. +The large town of Stanton, Mercer County, North Dakota, is now situated +at the mouth of the Big Knife. The passage of the party up the river was +slow, owing to unfavorable winds; and they observed along the banks +many signs of early convulsions of nature. The earth of the bluffs was +streaked with layers of coal, or carbonized wood, and large quantities +of lava and pumice-stone were strewn around, showing traces of ancient +volcanic action. The journal of April 9 says:-- + +"A great number of brants (snow-geese) pass up the river; some of them +are perfectly white, except the large feathers of the first joint of +the wing, which are black, though in every other characteristic they +resemble common gray brant. We also saw but could not procure an animal +(gopher) that burrows in the ground, and is similar in every respect to +the burrowing-squirrel, except that it is only one-third of its size. +This may be the animal whose works we have often seen in the plains and +prairies; they resemble the labors of the salamander in the sand-hills +of South Carolina and Georgia, and like him the animals rarely come +above ground; they consist of a little hillock of ten or twelve pounds +of loose ground, which would seem to have been reversed from a pot, +though no aperture is seen through which it could have been thrown. On +removing gently the earth, you discover that the soil has been broken +in a circle of about an inch and a half diameter, where the ground is +looser, though still no opening is perceptible. When we stopped for +dinner the squaw (Sacajawea) went out, and after penetrating with a +sharp stick the holes of the mice (gophers), near some drift-wood, +brought to us a quantity of wild artichokes, which the mice collect and +hoard in large numbers. The root is white, of an ovate form, from one to +three inches long, and generally of the size of a man's finger, and two, +four, and sometimes six roots are attached to a single stalk. Its +flavor as well as the stalk which issues from it resemble those of the +Jerusalem artichoke, except that the latter is much larger." + +The weather rapidly grew so warm, although this was early in April, +that the men worked half-naked during the day; and they were very much +annoyed by clouds of mosquitoes. They found that the hillsides and +even the banks of the rivers and sand-bars were covered with "a white +substance, which appears in considerable quantities on the surface +of the earth, and tastes like a mixture of common salt with Glauber's +salts." "Many of the streams," the journal adds, "are so strongly +impregnated with this substance that the water has an unpleasant taste +and a purgative effect." This is nothing more than the so-called alkali +which has since become known all over the farthest West. It abounds in +the regions west of Salt Lake Valley, whitening vast areas like snow and +poisoning the waters so that the traveller often sees the margins of +the brown pools lined with skeletons and bodies of small animals whose +thirst had led them to drink the deadly fluid. Men and animals stiffer +from smaller doses of this stuff, which is largely a sulphate of soda, +and even in small quantities is harmful to the system. + +Here, on the twelfth of April, they were able to determine the exact +course of the Little Missouri, a stream about which almost nothing was +then known. Near here, too, they found the source of the Mouse River, +only a few miles from the Missouri. The river, bending to the north and +then making many eccentric curves, finally empties into Lake Winnipeg, +and so passes into the great chain of northern lakes in British America. +At this point the explorers saw great flocks of the wild Canada goose. +The journal says:-- + +"These geese, we observe, do not build their nests on the ground or in +the sand-bars, but in the tops of the lofty cottonwood trees. We saw +some elk and buffalo to-day, but at too great a distance to obtain +any of them, though a number of the carcasses of the latter animal are +strewed along the shore, having fallen through the ice and been swept +along when the river broke up. More bald eagles are seen on this part of +the Missouri than we have previously met with; the small sparrow-hawk, +common in most parts of the United States, is also found here. Great +quantities of geese are feeding on the prairies, and one flock of white +brant, or geese with black-tipped wings, and some gray brant with them, +pass up the river; from their flight they seem to proceed much further +to the northwest. We killed two antelopes, which were very lean, and +caught last night two beavers." + +Lewis and Clark were laughed at by some very knowing people who +scouted the idea that wild geese build their nests in trees. But later +travellers have confirmed their story; the wise geese avoid foxes and +other of their four-footed enemies by fixing their homes in the tall +cottonwoods. In other words, they roost high. + +The Assiniboins from the north had lately been on their spring hunting +expeditions through this region,--just above the Little Missouri,--and +game was scarce and shy. The journal, under the date of April 14, +says:-- + +"One of the hunters shot at an otter last evening; a buffalo was killed, +and an elk, both so poor as to be almost unfit for use; two white +(grizzly) bears were also seen, and a muskrat swimming across the river. +The river continues wide and of about the same rapidity as the ordinary +current of the Ohio. The low grounds are wide, the moister parts +containing timber; the upland is extremely broken, without wood, and in +some places seems as if it had slipped down in masses of several acres +in surface. The mineral appearance of salts, coal, and sulphur, with the +burnt hill and pumice-stone, continue, and a bituminous water about +the color of strong lye, with the taste of Glauber's salts and a slight +tincture of alum. Many geese were feeding in the prairies, and a number +of magpies, which build their nests much like those of the blackbird, in +trees, and composed of small sticks, leaves, and grass, open at the top; +the egg is of a bluish-brown color, freckled with reddish-brown spots. +We also killed a large hooting-owl resembling that of the United States +except that it was more booted and clad with feathers. On the hills +are many aromatic herbs, resembling in taste, smell, and appearance the +sage, hyssop, wormwood, southernwood, juniper, and dwarf cedar; a plant +also about two or three feet high, similar to the camphor in smell and +taste; and another plant of the same size, with a long, narrow, smooth, +soft leaf, of an agreeable smell and flavor, which is a favorite food of +the antelope, whose necks are often perfumed by rubbing against it." + +What the journalist intended to say here was that at least one of the +aromatic herbs resembled sage, hyssop, wormwood, and southernwood, and +that there were junipers and dwarf cedars. The pungent-smelling herb was +the wild sage, now celebrated in stories of adventure as the sage-brush. +It grows abundantly in the alkali country, and is browsed upon by a +species of grouse known as the sage-hen. Junipers and dwarf cedars also +grow on the hills of the alkali and sage-brush country. The sage belongs +to the Artemisia family of plants. + +Four days later, the journal had this interesting entry: + +"The country to-day presented the usual variety of highlands +interspersed with rich plains. In one of these we observed a species of +pea bearing a yellow flower, which is now in blossom, the leaf and stalk +resembling the common pea. It seldom rises higher than six inches, and +the root is perennial. On the rose-bushes we also saw a quantity of +the hair of a buffalo, which had become perfectly white by exposure and +resembled the wool of the sheep, except that it was much finer and more +soft and silky. A buffalo which we killed yesterday had shed his long +hair, and that which remained was about two inches long, thick, fine, +and would have furnished five pounds of wool, of which we have no doubt +an excellent cloth may be made. Our game to-day was a beaver, a deer, an +elk, and some geese. . . . + +"On the hills we observed considerable quantities of dwarf juniper, +which seldom grows higher than three feet. We killed in the course of +the day an elk, three geese, and a beaver. The beaver on this part of +the Missouri are in greater quantities, larger and fatter, and their fur +is more abundant and of a darker color, than any we have hitherto seen. +Their favorite food seems to be the bark of the cottonwood and willow, +as we have seen no other species of tree that has been touched by them, +and these they gnaw to the ground through a diameter of twenty inches." + +And on the twenty-first of April the journal says: + +"Last night there was a hard white frost, and this morning the weather +was cold, but clear and pleasant; in the course of the day, however, it +became cloudy and the wind rose. The country is of the same description +as within the few last days. We saw immense quantities of buffalo, +elk, deer, antelopes, geese, and some swans and ducks, out of which we +procured three deer and four buffalo calves, which last are equal in +flavor to the most delicious veal; also two beaver and an otter." + +As the party advanced to the westward, following the crooked course +of the Missouri, they were very much afflicted with inflamed eyes, +occasioned by the fine, alkaline dust that blew so lightly that it +sometimes floated for miles, like clouds of smoke. The dust even +penetrated the works of one of their watches, although it was protected +by tight, double cases. In these later days, even the double windows of +the railway trains do not keep out this penetrating dust, which makes +one's skin dry and rough. + +On the twenty-fifth of April, the explorers believed, by the signs which +they observed, that they must be near the great unknown river of which +they had dimly heard as rising in the rocky passes of the Great Divide +and emptying into the Missouri. Captain Lewis accordingly left the +party, with four men, and struck off across the country in search of +the stream. Under the next day's date the journal reports the return of +Captain Lewis and says:-- + +"On leaving us yesterday he pursued his route along the foot of the +hills, which he descended to the distance of eight miles; from these +the wide plains watered by the Missouri and the Yellowstone spread +themselves before the eye, occasionally varied with the wood of the +banks, enlivened by the irregular windings of the two rivers, and +animated by vast herds of buffalo, deer, elk, and antelope. The +confluence of the two rivers was concealed by the wood, but the +Yellowstone itself was only two miles distant, to the south. He +therefore descended the hills and camped on the bank of the river, +having killed, as he crossed the plain, four buffaloes; the deer alone +are shy and retire to the woods, but the elk, antelope, and buffalo +suffered him to approach them without alarm, and often followed him +quietly for some distance." + +The famous water-course, first described by Lewis and Clark, was named +by them the Yellow Stone River. Earlier than this, however, the French +voyageurs had called the Upper Missouri the Riviere Jaune, or Yellow +River; but it is certain that the stream, which rises in the Yellowstone +National Park, was discovered and named by Lewis and Clark. One of the +party, Private Joseph Fields, was the first white man who ever ascended +the Yellowstone for any considerable distance. Sent up the river by +Captains Lewis and Clark, he travelled about eight miles, and observed +the currents and sand-bars. Leaving the mouth of the river, the party +went on their course along the Missouri. The journal, under date of +April 27, says:-- + +"From the point of junction a wood occupies the space between the two +rivers, which at the distance of a mile come within two hundred and +fifty yards of each other. There a beautiful low plain commences, +widening as the rivers recede, and extends along each of them for +several miles, rising about half a mile from the Missouri into a plain +twelve feet higher than itself. The low plain is a few inches above high +water mark, and where it joins the higher plain there is a channel of +sixty or seventy yards in width, through which a part of the Missouri, +when at its greatest height, passes into the Yellowstone. . . . + +"The northwest wind rose so high at eleven o'clock that we were obliged +to stop till about four in the afternoon, when we proceeded till dusk. +On the south a beautiful plain separates the two rivers, till at about +six miles there is a piece of low timbered ground, and a little above it +bluffs, where the country rises gradually from the river: the situations +on the north are more high and open. We encamped on that side, the +wind, the sand which it raised, and the rapidity of the current having +prevented our advancing more than eight miles; during the latter part of +the day the river became wider, and crowded with sand-bars. The game +was in such plenty that we killed only what was necessary for our +subsistence. For several days past we have seen great numbers of buffalo +lying dead along the shore, some of them partly devoured by the wolves. +They have either sunk through the ice during the winter, or been drowned +in attempting to cross; or else, after crossing to some high bluff, have +found themselves too much exhausted either to ascend or swim back again, +and perished for want of food: in this situation we found several small +parties of them. There are geese, too, in abundance, and more bald +eagles than we have hitherto observed; the nests of these last being +always accompanied by those of two or three magpies, who are their +inseparable attendants." + + + + +Chapter VIII -- In the Haunts of Grizzlies and Buffalo + +Game, which had been somewhat scarce after leaving the Yellowstone, +became more plentiful as they passed on to the westward, still +following the winding course of the Missouri. Much of the time, baffling +winds and the crookedness of the stream made sailing impossible, and the +boats were towed by men walking along the banks. + +Even this was sometimes difficult, on account of the rocky ledges that +beset the shores, and sharp stones that lay in the path of the towing +parties. On the twenty-eighth of April, however, having a favorable +wind, the party made twenty-eight miles with their sails, which was +reckoned a good day's journey. On that day the journal records that game +had again become very abundant, deer of various kinds, elk, buffalo, +antelope, bear, beaver, and geese being numerous. The beaver, it was +found, had wrought much damage by gnawing down trees; some of these, not +less than three feet in diameter had been gnawed clean through by the +beaver. On the following day the journal has this record:-- + +"We proceeded early, with a moderate wind. Captain Lewis, who was on +shore with one hunter, met, about eight o'clock, two white (grizzly) +bears. Of the strength and ferocity of this animal the Indians had given +us dreadful accounts. They never attack him but in parties of six or +eight persons, and even then are often defeated with a loss of one or +more of their party. Having no weapons but bows and arrows, and the bad +guns with which the traders supply them, they are obliged to approach +very near to the bear; as no wound except through the head or heart +is mortal, they frequently fall a sacrifice if they miss their aim. He +rather attacks than avoids a man, and such is the terror which he has +inspired, that the Indians who go in quest of him paint themselves and +perform all the superstitious rites customary when they make war on a +neighboring nation. Hitherto, those bears we had seen did not appear +desirous of encountering us; but although to a skilful rifleman the +danger is very much diminished, yet the white bear is still a terrible +animal. On approaching these two, both Captain Lewis and the hunter +fired, and each wounded a bear. One of them made his escape; the other +turned upon Captain Lewis and pursued him seventy or eighty yards, but +being badly wounded the bear could not run so fast as to prevent him +from reloading his piece, which he again aimed at him, and a third shot +from the hunter brought him to the ground. He was a male, not quite full +grown, and weighed about three hundred pounds. The legs are somewhat +longer than those of the black bear, and the talons and tusks much +larger and longer. Its color is a yellowish-brown; the eyes are small, +black, and piercing; the front of the fore legs near the feet is usually +black, and the fur is finer, thicker, and deeper than that of the black +bear. Add to which, it is a more furious animal, and very remarkable for +the wounds which it will bear without dying." + +Next day, the hunter killed the largest elk which they had ever seen. It +stood five feet three inches high from hoof to shoulder. Antelopes were +also numerous, but lean, and not very good for food. Of the antelope the +journal says:-- + +"These fleet and quick-sighted animals are generally the victims of +their curiosity. When they first see the hunters, they run with great +velocity; if he lies down on the ground, and lifts up his arm, his hat, +or his foot, they return with a light trot to look at the object, and +sometimes go and return two or three times, till they approach within +reach of the rifle. So, too, they sometimes leave their flock to go +and look at the wolves, which crouch down, and, if the antelope is +frightened at first, repeat the same manoevre, and sometimes relieve +each other, till they decoy it from the party, when they seize it. But, +generally, the wolves take them as they are crossing the rivers; for, +although swift on foot, they are not good swimmers." + +Later wayfarers across the plains were wont to beguile the antelope by +fastening a bright-colored handkerchief to a ramrod stuck in the ground. +The patient hunter was certain to be rewarded by the antelope coming +within range of his rifle; for, unless scared off by some interference, +the herd, after galloping around and around and much zigzagging, would +certainly seek to gratify their curiosity by gradually circling nearer +and nearer the strange object until a deadly shot or two sent havoc into +their ranks. + +May came on cold and windy, and on the second of the month, the journal +records that snow fell to the depth of an inch, contrasting strangely +with the advanced vegetation. + +"Our game to-day," proceeds the journal, "were deer, elk, and buffalo: +we also procured three beaver. They were here quite gentle, as they have +not been hunted; but when the hunters are in pursuit, they never leave +their huts during the day. This animal we esteem a great delicacy, +particularly the tail, which, when boiled, resembles in flavor the +fresh tongues and sounds of the codfish, and is generally so large as to +afford a plentiful meal for two men. One of the hunters, in passing near +an old Indian camp, found several yards of scarlet cloth suspended on +the bough of a tree, as a sacrifice to the deity, by the Assiniboins; +the custom of making these offerings being common among that people, as, +indeed, among all the Indians on the Missouri. The air was sharp this +evening; the water froze on the oars as we rowed." + +The Assiniboin custom of sacrificing to their deity, or "great +medicine," the article which they most value themselves, is not by any +means peculiar to that tribe, nor to the Indian race. + +An unusual number of porcupines were seen along here, and these +creatures were so free from wildness that they fed on, undisturbed, +while the explorers walked around and among them. The captains named +a bold and beautiful stream, which here entered the Missouri from the +north,--Porcupine River; but modern geography calls the water-course +Poplar River; at the mouth of the river, in Montana, is now the Poplar +River Indian Agency and military post. The waters of this stream, the +explorers found, were clear and transparent,--an exception to all the +streams, which, discharging into the Missouri, give it its name of the +Big Muddy. The journal adds:-- + +"A quarter of a mile beyond this river a creek falls in on the south, +to which, on account of its distance from the mouth of the Missouri, we +gave the name of Two-thousand-mile creek. It is a bold stream with a bed +thirty yards wide. At three and one-half miles above Porcupine River, +we reached some high timber on the north, and camped just above an +old channel of the river, which is now dry. We saw vast quantities of +buffalo, elk, deer,--principally of the long-tailed kind,--antelope, +beaver, geese, ducks, brant, and some swan. The porcupines too are +numerous, and so careless and clumsy that we can approach very near +without disturbing them, as they are feeding on the young willows. +Toward evening we also found for the first time the nest of a goose +among some driftwood, all that we had hitherto seen being on the top of +a broken tree on the forks, invariably from fifteen to twenty or more +feet in height." + +"Next day," May 4, says the journal, "we passed some old Indian +hunting-camps, one of which consisted of two large lodges, fortified +with a circular fence twenty or thirty feet in diameter, made of timber +laid horizontally, the beams overlying each other to the height of five +feet, and covered with the trunks and limbs of trees that have drifted +down the river. The lodges themselves are formed by three or more strong +sticks about the size of a man's leg or arm and twelve feet long, which +are attached at the top by a withe of small willows, and spread out so +as to form at the base a circle of ten to fourteen feet in diameter. +Against these are placed pieces of driftwood and fallen timber, usually +in three ranges, one on the other; the interstices are covered with +leaves, bark, and straw, so as to form a conical figure about ten feet +high, with a small aperture in one side for the door. It is, however, at +best a very imperfect shelter against the inclemencies of the seasons." + +Wolves were very abundant along the route of the explorers, the +most numerous species being the common kind, now known as the coyote +(pronounced kyote), and named by science the canis latrans. These +animals are cowardly and sly creatures, of an intermediate size between +the fox and dog, very delicately formed, fleet and active. + +"The ears are large, erect, and pointed; the head is long and pointed, +like that of the fox; the tail long and bushy; the hair and fur are of a +pale reddish-brown color, though much coarser than that of the fox; the +eye is of a deep sea-green color, small and piercing; the talons are +rather longer than those of the wolf of the Atlantic States, which +animal, as far as we can perceive, is not to be found on this side of +the Platte. These wolves usually associate in bands of ten or twelve, +and are rarely, if ever, seen alone, not being able, singly, to attack a +deer or antelope. They live and rear their young in burrows, which they +fix near some pass or spot much frequented by game, and sally out in a +body against any animal which they think they can overpower; but on the +slightest alarm retreat to their burrows, making a noise exactly like +that of a small dog. + +"A second species is lower, shorter in the legs, and thicker than the +Atlantic wolf; the color, which is not affected by the seasons, is of +every variety of shade, from a gray or blackish-brown to a cream-colored +white. They do not burrow, nor do they bark, but howl; they frequent the +woods and plains, and skulk along the skirts of the buffalo herds, in +order to attack the weary or wounded." + +Under date of May 5, the journal has an interesting story of an +encounter with a grizzly bear, which, by way of variety, is here called +"brown," instead of "white." It is noticeable that the explorers dwelt +with much minuteness upon the peculiar characteristics of the grizzly; +this is natural enough when we consider that they were the first white +men to form an intimate acquaintance with "Ursus horribilis." The +account says:-- + +"Captain Clark and one of the hunters met, this evening, the largest +brown bear we have seen. As they fired he did not attempt to attack, +but fled with a most tremendous roar; and such was his extraordinary +tenacity of life, that, although he had five balls passed through his +lungs, and five other wounds, he swam more than half across the river to +a sand-bar, and survived twenty minutes. He weighed between five and six +hundred pounds at least, and measured eight feet seven inches and a half +from the nose to the extremity of the hind feet, five feet ten inches +and a half round the breast, three feet eleven inches round the neck, +one foot eleven inches round the middle of the fore leg, and his claws +five on each foot, were four inches and three-eighths in length. This +animal differs from the common black bear in having his claws much +longer and more blunt; his tail shorter; his hair of a reddish or bay +brown, longer, finer, and more abundant; his liver, lungs, and heart +much larger even in proportion to his size, the heart, particularly, +being equal to that of a large ox; and his maw ten times larger. Besides +fish and flesh, he feeds on roots and every kind of wild fruit." + +On May 8 the party discovered the largest and most important of the +northern tributaries of the Upper Missouri. The journal thus describes +the stream:-- + +"Its width at the entrance is one hundred and fifty yards; on going +three miles up, Captain Lewis found it to be of the same breadth and +sometimes more; it is deep, gentle, and has a large quantity of water; +its bed is principally of mud; the banks are abrupt, about twelve +feet in height, and formed of a dark, rich loam and blue clay; the +low grounds near it are wide and fertile, and possess a considerable +proportion of cottonwood and willow. It seems to be navigable for boats +and canoes; by this circumstance, joined to its course and quantity of +water, which indicates that it passes through a large extent of +country, we are led to presume that it may approach the Saskaskawan +(Saskatchewan) and afford a communication with that river. The water has +a peculiar whiteness, such as might be produced by a tablespoonful of +milk in a dish of tea, and this circumstance induced us to call it Milk +River." + +Modern geography shows that the surmise of Captain Lewis was correct. +Some of the tributaries of Milk River (the Indian name of which +signifies "The River that Scolds at all Others") have their rise near +St. Mary's River, which is one of the tributaries of the Saskatchewan, +in British America. + +The explorers were surprised to find the bed of a dry river, as deep and +as wide as the Missouri itself, about fifteen miles above Milk River. +Although it had every appearance of a water-course, it did not discharge +a drop of water. Their journal says:-- + +"It passes through a wide valley without timber; the surrounding country +consists of waving low hills, interspersed with some handsome level +plains; the banks are abrupt, and consist of a black or yellow clay, +or of a rich sandy loam; though they do not rise more than six or eight +feet above the bed, they exhibit no appearance of being overflowed; the +bed is entirely composed of a light brown sand, the particles of which, +like those of the Missouri, are extremely fine. Like the dry rivers we +passed before, this seemed to have discharged its waters recently, but +the watermark indicated that its greatest depth had not been more than +two feet. This stream, if it deserve the name, we called Bigdry (Big +Dry) River." + +And Big Dry it remains on the maps unto this day. In this region the +party recorded this observation:-- + +"The game is now in great quantities, particularly the elk and buffalo, +which last is so gentle that the men are obliged to drive them out +of the way with sticks and stones. The ravages of the beaver are very +apparent; in one place the timber was entirely prostrated for a space of +three acres in front on the river and one in depth, and great part of it +removed, though the trees were in large quantities, and some of them as +thick as the body of a man." + +Yet so great have been the ravages of man among these gentle creatures, +that elk are now very rarely found in the region, and the buffalo have +almost utterly disappeared from the face of the earth. Just after +the opening of the Northern Pacific Railway, in 1883, a band of sixty +buffaloes were heard of, far to the southward of Bismarck, and a party +was organized to hunt them. The _bold_ hunters afterwards boasted that +they killed every one of this little band of survivors of their race. + +The men were now (in the middle of May) greatly troubled with boils, +abscesses, and inflamed eyes, caused by the poison of the alkali that +covered much of the ground and corrupted the water. Here is an entry in +the journal of May 11:-- + +"About five in the afternoon one of our men (Bratton), who had been +afflicted with boils and suffered to walk on shore, came running to the +boats with loud cries, and every symptom of terror and distress. For +some time after we had taken him on board he was so much out of breath +as to be unable to describe the cause of his anxiety; but he at length +told us that about a mile and a half below he had shot a brown bear, +which immediately turned and was in close pursuit of him; but the bear +being badly wounded could not overtake him. Captain Lewis, with seven +men, immediately went in search of him; having found his track they +followed him by the blood for a mile, found him concealed in some +thick brushwood, and shot him with two balls through the skull. Though +somewhat smaller than that killed a few days ago, he was a monstrous +animal, and a most terrible enemy. Our man had shot him through the +centre of the lungs; yet he had pursued him furiously for half a +mile, then returned more than twice that distance, and with his talons +prepared himself a bed in the earth two feet deep and five feet long; +he was perfectly alive when they found him, which was at least two hours +after he had received the wound. The wonderful power of life which these +animals possess renders them dreadful; their very track in the mud or +sand, which we have sometimes found eleven inches long and seven and +one-fourth wide, exclusive of the talons, is alarming; and we had rather +encounter two Indians than meet a single brown bear. There is no chance +of killing them by a single shot unless the ball goes through the brain, +and this is very difficult on account of two large muscles which cover +the side of the forehead and the sharp projection of the centre of the +frontal bone, which is also thick. + +"Our camp was on the south, at the distance of sixteen miles from that +of last night. The fleece and skin of the bear were a heavy burden for +two men, and the oil amounted to eight gallons." + +The name of the badly-scared Bratton was bestowed upon a creek which +discharges into the Missouri near the scene of this encounter. Game +continued to be very abundant. On the fourteenth, according to the +journal, the hunters were hunted, to their great discomfiture. The +account says:-- + +"Toward evening the men in the hindmost canoes discovered a large brown +(grizzly) bear lying in the open grounds, about three hundred paces from +the river. Six of them, all good hunters, immediately went to attack +him, and concealing themselves by a small eminence came unperceived +within forty paces of him. Four of the hunters now fired, and each +lodged a ball in his body, two of them directly through the lungs. The +furious animal sprang up and ran open-mouthed upon them. + +"As he came near, the two hunters who had reserved their fire gave him +two wounds, one of which, breaking his shoulder, retarded his motion +for a moment; but before they could reload he was so near that they +were obliged to run to the river, and before they had reached it he +had almost overtaken them. Two jumped into the canoe; the other four +separated, and, concealing themselves in the willows, fired as fast +as they could reload. They struck him several times, but, instead of +weakening the monster, each shot seemed only to direct him towards the +hunters, till at last he pursued two of them so closely that they threw +aside their guns and pouches, and jumped down a perpendicular bank of +twenty feet into the river: the bear sprang after them, and was within +a few feet of the hindmost, when one of the hunters on shore shot him +in the head, and finally killed him. They dragged him to the shore, and +found that eight balls had passed through him in different directions. +The bear was old, and the meat tough, so that they took the skin only, +and rejoined us at camp, where we had been as much terrified by an +accident of a different kind. + +"This was the narrow escape of one of our canoes, containing all our +papers, instruments, medicine, and almost every article indispensable +for the success of our enterprise. The canoe being under sail, a sudden +squall of wind struck her obliquely and turned her considerably. The man +at the helm, who was unluckily the worst steersman of the party, became +alarmed, and, instead of putting her before the wind, luffed her up into +it. The wind was so high that it forced the brace of the square-sail +out of the hand of the man who was attending it, and instantly upset the +canoe, which would have been turned bottom upward but for the resistance +made by the awning. Such was the confusion on board, and the waves ran +so high, that it was half a minute before she righted, and then nearly +full of water, but by bailing her out she was kept from sinking until +they rowed ashore. Besides the loss of the lives of three men, who, not +being able to swim, would probably have perished, we should have been +deprived of nearly everything necessary for our purposes, at a distance +of between two and three thousand miles from any place where we could +supply the deficiency." + +Fortunately, there was no great loss from this accident, which was +caused by the clumsiness and timidity of the steersman, Chaboneau. +Captain Lewis's account of the incident records that the conduct of +Chaboneau's wife, Sacajawea, was better than that of her cowardly +husband. He says:-- + +"The Indian woman, to whom I ascribe equal fortitude and resolution with +any person on board at the time of the accident, caught and preserved +most of the light articles which were washed overboard." + + + + +Chapter IX -- In the Solitudes of the Upper Missouri + +Under date of May 17, the journal of the party has the following +interesting entries:-- + +"We set out early and proceeded on very well; the banks being firm and +the shore bold, we were enabled to use the towline, which, whenever +the banks will permit it, is the safest and most expeditious mode of +ascending the river, except under sail with a steady breeze. At the +distance of ten and one-half miles we came to the mouth of a small creek +on the south, below which the hills approach the river, and continue +near it during the day. Three miles further is a large creek on the +north; and again, six and three-quarters miles beyond this, is another +large creek, to the south; both containing a small quantity of running +water, of a brackish taste. The last we called Rattlesnake Creek, from +our seeing that animal near it. Although no timber can be observed on +it from the Missouri, it throws out large quantities of driftwood, among +which were some pieces of coal brought down by the stream. . . . + +"The game is in great quantities, but the buffalo are not so numerous as +they were some days ago; two rattlesnakes were seen to-day, and one of +them was killed. It resembles those of the Middle Atlantic States, being +about thirty inches long, of a yellowish brown on the back and sides, +variegated with a row of oval dark brown spots lying transversely on the +back from the neck to the tail, and two other rows of circular spots of +the same color on the sides along the edge of the scuta; there are one +hundred and seventy-six scuta on the belly, and seventeen on the tail." + +Two days later, the journal records that one of the party killed a +grizzly bear, "which, though shot through the heart, ran at his usual +pace nearly a quarter of a mile before he fell." + +The mouth of the Musselshell River, which was one of the notable points +that marked another stage in the journey, was reached on the twentieth +of May. This stream empties into the Missouri two thousand two hundred +and seventy miles above its mouth, and is still known by the name given +it by its discoverers. The journal says: + +"It is one hundred and ten yards wide, and contains more water than +streams of that size usually do in this country; its current is by no +means rapid, and there is every appearance of its being susceptible of +navigation by canoes for a considerable distance. Its bed is chiefly +formed of coarse sand and gravel, with an occasional mixture of black +mud; the banks are abrupt and nearly twelve feet high, so that they are +secure from being overflowed; the water is of a greenish-yellow cast, +and much more transparent than that of the Missouri, which itself, +though clearer than below, still retains its whitish hue and a portion +of its sediment. Opposite the point of junction the current of the +Missouri is gentle, and two hundred and twenty-two yards in width; +the bed is principally of mud, the little sand remaining being wholly +confined to the points, and the water is still too deep to use the +setting-pole. + +"If this be, as we suppose, the Musselshell, our Indian information is +that it rises in the first chain of the Rocky mountains not far from the +sources of the Yellowstone, whence in its course to this place it waters +a high broken country, well timbered, particularly on its borders, and +interspersed with handsome fertile plains and meadows. We have reason, +however, to believe, from their giving a similar account of the timber +where we now are, that the timber of which they speak is similar to that +which we have seen for a few days past, which consists of nothing more +than a few straggling small pines and dwarf cedars on the summits of the +hills, nine-tenths of the ground being totally destitute of wood, and +covered with short grass, aromatic herbs, and an immense quantity +of prickly-pear; though the party who explored it for eight miles +represented the low grounds on the river to be well supplied with +cottonwood of a tolerable size, and of an excellent soil. They also +report that the country is broken and irregular, like that near our +camp; and that about five miles up, a handsome river, about fifty +yards wide, which we named after Chaboneau's wife, Sacajawea's or the +Bird-woman's River, discharges into the Musselshell on the north or +upper side." + +Later explorations have shown that the Musselshell rises in the +Little Belt Mountains, considerably to the north of the sources of the +Yellowstone. Modern geography has also taken from the good Sacajawea +the honor of having her name bestowed on one of the branches of the +Musselshell. The stream once named for her is now known as Crooked +Creek: it joins the river near its mouth, in the central portion of +Montana. The journal, under date of May 22, has this entry:-- + +"The river (the Missouri) continues about two hundred and fifty yards +wide, with fewer sand-bars, and the current more gentle and regular. +Game is no longer in such abundance since leaving the Musselshell. We +have caught very few fish on this side of the Mandans, and these were +the white catfish, of two to five pounds. We killed a deer and a bear. +We have not seen in this quarter the black bear, common in the United +States and on the lower parts of the Missouri, nor have we discerned any +of their tracks. They may easily be distinguished by the shortness of +the talons from the brown, grizzly, or white bear, all of which seem to +be of the same species, which assumes those colors at different seasons +of the year. We halted earlier than usual, and camped on the north, in a +point of woods, at the distance of sixteen and one half miles (thus past +the site of Fort Hawley, on the south)." + +Notwithstanding the advance of the season, the weather in those great +altitudes grew more and more cold. Under date of May 23, the journal +records the fact that ice appeared along the edges of the river, and +water froze upon their oars. But notwithstanding the coolness of the +nights and mornings, mosquitoes were very troublesome. + +The explorers judged that the cold was somewhat unusual for that +locality, inasmuch as the cottonwood trees lost their leaves by the +frost, showing that vegetation, generally well suited to the temperature +of its country, or habitat, had been caught by an unusual nip of the +frost. The explorers noticed that the air of those highlands was so pure +and clear that objects appeared to be much nearer than they really were. +A man who was sent out to explore the country attempted to reach a ridge +(now known as the Little Rocky Mountains), apparently about fifteen +miles from the river. He travelled about ten miles, but finding himself +not halfway to the object of his search, he returned without reaching +it. + +The party was now just westward of the site of the present town of +Carroll, Montana, on the Missouri. Their journal says:-- + +"The low grounds are narrow and without timber; the country is high and +broken; a large portion of black rock and brown sandy rock appears in +the face of the hills, the tops of which are covered with scattered +pine, spruce, and dwarf cedar; the soil is generally poor, sandy near +the tops of the hills, and nowhere producing much grass, the low grounds +being covered with little else than the hyssop, or southernwood, and the +pulpy-leaved thorn. Game is more scarce, particularly beaver, of which +we have seen but few for several days, and the abundance or scarcity +of which seems to depend on the greater or less quantity of timber. At +twenty-four and one-half miles we reached a point of woodland on the +south, where we observed that the trees had no leaves, and camped for +the night." + +The "hyssop, or southernwood," the reader now knows to be the wild sage, +or sage-brush. The "pulpy-leaved thorn" mentioned in the journal is the +greasewood; and both of these shrubs flourish in the poverty-stricken, +sandy, alkaline soil of the far West and Northwest. The woody fibre of +these furnished the only fuel available for early overland emigrants to +the Pacific. + +The character of this country now changed considerably as the explorers +turned to the northward, in their crooked course, with the river. On the +twenty-fifth of May the journal records this:-- + +"The country on each side is high, broken, and rocky; the rock being +either a soft brown sandstone, covered with a thin stratum of limestone, +or else a hard, black, rugged granite, both usually in horizontal +strata, and the sand-rock overlaying the other. Salts and quartz, as +well as some coal and pumice-stone, still appear. The bars of the river +are composed principally of gravel; the river low grounds are narrow, +and afford scarcely any timber; nor is there much pine on the hills. The +buffalo have now become scarce; we saw a polecat (skunk) this evening, +which was the first for several days; in the course of the day we also +saw several herds of the bighorned animals among the steep cliffs on the +north, and killed several of them." + +The bighorned animals, the first of which were killed here, were +sometimes called "Rocky Mountain sheep." But sheep they were not, +bearing hair and not wool. As we have said, they are now more commonly +known as bighorns. + +The patience of the explorers was rewarded, on Sunday, May 26, 1806, by +their first view of the Rocky Mountains. Here is the journal's record on +that date:-- + +"It was here (Cow Creek, Mont.) that, after ascending the highest summit +of the hills on the north side of the river, Captain Lewis first caught +a distant view of the Rock mountains--the object of all our hopes, and +the reward of all our ambition. On both sides of the river, and at no +great distance from it, the mountains followed its course. Above these +at the distance of fifty miles from us, an irregular range of mountains +spread from west to northwest from his position. To the north of these, +a few elevated points, the most remarkable of which bore N. 65'0 W., +appeared above the horizon; and as the sun shone on the snows of their +summits, he obtained a clear and satisfactory view of those mountains +which close on the Missouri the passage to the Pacific." + +As they continued to ascend the Missouri they found themselves +confronted by many considerable rapids which sometimes delayed their +progress. They also set forth this observation: "The only animals we +have observed are the elk, the bighorn, and the hare common to +this country." Wayfarers across the plains now call this hare the +jack-rabbit. The river soon became very rapid with a marked descent, +indicating their nearness to its mountain sources. The journal says:-- + +"Its general width is about two hundred yards; the shoals are more +frequent, and the rocky points at the mouths of the gullies more +troublesome to pass. Great quantities of stone lie in the river and on +its bank, and seem to have fallen down as the rain washed away the clay +and sand in which they were imbedded. The water is bordered by high, +rugged bluffs, composed of irregular but horizontal strata of yellow +and brown or black clay, brown and yellowish-white sand, soft +yellowish-white sandstone, and hard dark brown freestone; also, large +round kidney-formed irregular separate masses of a hard black ironstone, +imbedded in the clay and sand; some coal or carbonated wood also +makes its appearance in the cliffs, as do its usual attendants, the +pumice-stone and burnt earth. The salts and quartz are less abundant, +and, generally speaking, the country is, if possible, more rugged and +barren than that we passed yesterday; the only growth of the hills being +a few pine, spruce, and dwarf cedar, interspersed with an occasional +contrast, once in the course of some miles, of several acres of level +ground, which supply a scanty subsistence for a few little cottonwoods." + +But, a few days later, the party passed out of this inhospitable region, +and, after passing a stream which they named Thompson's (now Birch) +Creek, after one of their men, they were glad to make this entry in +their diary: + +"Here the country assumed a totally different aspect: the hills retired +on both sides from the river, which spreads to more than three times +its former size, and is filled with a number of small handsome islands +covered with cottonwood. The low grounds on its banks are again wide, +fertile, and enriched with trees: those on the north are particularly +wide, the hills being comparatively low, and opening into three large +valleys, which extend themselves for a considerable distance towards the +north. These appearances of vegetation are delightful after the dreary +hills among which we have passed; and we have now to congratulate +ourselves at having escaped from the last ridges of the Black Mountains. +On leaving Thompson's Creek we passed two small islands, and at +twenty-three miles' distance encamped among some timber; on the north, +opposite to a small creek, which we named Bull Creek. The bighorn are +in great quantities, and must bring forth their young at a very early +season, as they are now half grown. One of the party saw a large bear +also; but, being at a distance from the river, and having no timber to +conceal him, he would not venture to fire." + +A curious adventure happened on the twenty-eighth, of which the journal, +next day, makes this mention:-- + +"Last night we were alarmed by a new sort of enemy. A buffalo swam over +from the opposite side, and to the spot where lay one of our canoes, +over which he clambered to the shore: then, taking fright, he ran full +speed up the bank towards our fires, and passed within eighteen inches +of the heads of some of the men before the sentinel could make him +change his course. Still more alarmed, he ran down between four fires, +and within a few inches of the heads of a second row of the men, and +would have broken into our lodge if the barking of the dog had not +stopped him. He suddenly turned to the right, and was out of sight in +a moment, leaving us all in confusion, every one seizing his rifle and +inquiring the cause of the alarm. On learning what had happened, we had +to rejoice at suffering no more injury than some damage to the guns that +were in the canoe which the buffalo crossed. . . . + +"We passed an island and two sand-bars, and at the distance of two +and a half miles came to a handsome river, which discharges itself on +the South, and which we ascended to the distance of a mile and a half: +we called it Judith's River. It rises in the Rocky Mountains, in about +the same place with the Musselshell, and near the Yellowstone River. Its +entrance is one hundred yards wide from one bank to the other, the water +occupying about seventy-five yards, and being in greater quantity than +that of the Musselshell River. . . . There were great numbers of the +argalea, or bighorned animals, in the high country through which it +passes, and of beaver in its waters. Just above the entrance of it we +saw the ashes of the fires of one hundred and twenty-six lodges, which +appeared to have been deserted about twelve or fifteen days." + +Leaving Judith's River, named for a sweet Virginia lass, the explorers +sailed, or were towed, seventeen miles up the river, where they camped +at the mouth of a bold, running river to which they gave the name +of Slaughter River. The stream is now known as the Arrow; the +appropriateness of the title conferred on the stream by Lewis and Clark +appears from the story which they tell of their experience just below +"Slaughter River," as follows: + +"On the north we passed a precipice about one hundred and twenty feet +high, under which lay scattered the fragments of at least one hundred +carcasses of buffaloes, although the water which had washed away the +lower part of the hill must have carried off many of the dead. These +buffaloes had been chased down the precipice in a way very common on +the Missouri, by which vast herds are destroyed in a moment. The mode of +hunting is to select one of the most active and fleet young men, who is +disguised by a buffalo-skin round his body; the skin of the head with +the ears and horns being fastened on his own head in such a way as to +deceive the buffalo. Thus dressed, he fixes himself at a convenient +distance between a herd of buffalo and any of the river precipices, +which sometimes extend for some miles. His companions in the mean +time get in the rear and side of the herd, and at a given signal show +themselves and advance toward the buffaloes. These instantly take +the alarm, and finding the hunters beside them, they run toward the +disguised Indian or decoy, who leads them on at full speed toward the +river; when, suddenly securing himself in some crevice of the cliff +which he had previously fixed on, the herd is left on the brink of the +precipice. It is then in vain for the foremost buffaloes to retreat or +even to stop; they are pressed on by the hindmost rank, which, seeing +no danger but from the hunters, goad on those before them till the +whole are precipitated, and the shore is strewn with their dead bodies. +Sometimes, in this perilous seduction, the Indian is himself either +trodden under foot by the rapid movements of the buffaloes, or missing +his footing in the cliff is urged down the precipice by the falling +herd. The Indians then select as much meat as they wish; the rest is +abandoned to the wolves, and creates a most dreadful stench. The wolves +which had been feasting on these carcasses were very fat, and so gentle +that one of them was killed with an espontoon."(1) + + + (1) A short spear. + + +The dryness and purity of the air roused the admiration of the +explorers, who noticed that the woodwork of the cases of their +instruments shrank, and the joints opened, although the wood was old and +perfectly seasoned. A tablespoonful of water, exposed to the air in +an open saucer, would wholly evaporate in thirty-six hours, when the +thermometer did not mark higher than the "Temperate" point at the +warmest hour of the day. Contrary to their expectations, they had not +yet met with any Indians, although they saw many signs of their having +recently been in that vicinity. The journal says: + +"In the course of the day (May 30) we passed several encampments of +Indians, the most recent of which seemed to have been evacuated about +five weeks since; and, from the several apparent dates, we supposed +that they were formed by a band of about one hundred lodges, who were +travelling slowly up the river. Although no part of the Missouri from +the Minnetarees to this place exhibits signs of permanent settlements, +yet none seem exempt from the transient visits of hunting-parties. We +know that the Minnetarees of the Missouri extend their excursions on the +south side of the river as high as the Yellowstone, and the Assiniboins +visit the northern side, most probably as high as Porcupine River. All +the lodges between that place and the Rocky Mountains we supposed to +belong to the Minnetarees of Fort de Prairie, who live on the south fork +of the Saskashawan." + +The party now entered upon some of the natural wonders of the West, +which have since become famous. Their journal says:-- + +"These hills and river-cliffs exhibit a most extraordinary and romantic +appearance. They rise in most places nearly perpendicular from the +water, to the height of between two hundred and three hundred feet, and +are formed of very white sandstone, so soft as to yield readily to the +impression of water, in the upper part of which lie imbedded two or +three thin horizontal strata of white freestone, insensible to the rain; +on the top is a dark rich loam, which forms a gradually ascending plain, +from a mile to a mile and a half in extent, when the hills again rise +abruptly to the height of about three hundred feet more. In trickling +down the cliffs, the water has worn the soft sandstone into a thousand +grotesque figures, among which, with a little fancy, may be discerned +elegant ranges of freestone buildings, with columns variously +sculptured, and supporting long and elegant galleries, while the +parapets are adorned with statuary. On a nearer approach they represent +every form of elegant ruins--columns, some with pedestals and capitals +entire, others mutilated and prostrate, and some rising pyramidally over +each other till they terminate in a sharp point. These are varied +by niches, alcoves, and the customary appearances of desolated +magnificence. The illusion is increased by the number of martins, which +have built their globular nests in the niches, and hover over these +columns, as in our country they are accustomed to frequent large +stone structures. As we advance there seems no end to the visionary +enchantment which surrounds us. + +"In the midst of this fantastic scenery are vast ranges of walls, which +seem the productions of art, so regular is the workmanship. They rise +perpendicularly from the river, sometimes to the height of one hundred +feet, varying in thickness from one to twelve feet, being as broad at +the top as below. The stones of which they are formed are black, thick, +durable, and composed of a large portion of earth, intermixed and +cemented with a small quantity of sand and a considerable proportion +of talk (talc) or quartz. These stones are almost invariably regular +parallelopipeds of unequal sizes in the wall, but equally deep and +laid regularly in ranges over each other like bricks, each breaking and +covering the interstice of the two on which it rests; but though the +perpendicular interstice be destroyed, the horizontal one extends +entirely through the whole work. The stones are proportioned to the +thickness of the wall in which they are employed, being largest in the +thickest walls. The thinner walls are composed of a single depth of the +parallelopiped, while the thicker ones consist of two or more depths. +These walls pass the river at several places, rising from the water's +edge much above the sandstone bluffs, which they seem to penetrate; +thence they cross in a straight line, on either side of the river, the +plains, over which they tower to the height of from ten to seventy feet, +until they lose themselves in the second range of hills. Sometimes they +run parallel in several ranges near to each other, sometimes intersect +each other at right angles, and have the appearance of walls of ancient +houses or gardens." + +The wall-like, canyon formations were charted by Lewis and Clark as "The +Stone Walls." Their fantastic outlines have been admired and described +by modern tourists, and some of them have been named "Cathedral Rocks," +"Citadel Rock," "Hole in the Wall," and so on. + +Passing out of this wonderful region, the expedition entered upon a more +level country, here and there broken by bluffy formations which extended +along the river, occasionally interspersed with low hills. Their journal +says: + +"In the plains near the river are the choke-cherry, yellow and red +currant bushes, as well as the wild rose and prickly pear, both of which +are now in bloom. From the tops of the river-hills, which are lower than +usual, we enjoyed a delightful view of the rich, fertile plains on +both sides, in many places extending from the river-cliffs to a great +distance back. In these plains we meet, occasionally, large banks of +pure sand, which were driven apparently by the southwest winds and there +deposited. The plains are more fertile some distance from the river than +near its banks, where the surface of the earth is very generally +strewed with small pebbles, which appear to be smoothed and worn by the +agitation of the waters with which they were, no doubt, once covered." + +Under date of June 2d, the journal says:-- + +"The current of the river is strong but regular, the timber increases +in quantity, the low grounds become more level and extensive, and the +bluffs are lower than before. As the game is very abundant, we think +it necessary to begin a collection of hides for the purpose of making +a leathern boat, which we intend constructing shortly. The hunters, who +were out the greater part of the day, brought in six elk, two buffalo, +two mule-deer, and a bear. This last animal had nearly cost us the lives +of two of our hunters, who were together when he attacked them. One +of them narrowly escaped being caught, and the other, after running +a considerable distance, concealed himself in some thick bushes, and, +while the bear was in quick pursuit of his hiding-place, his companion +came up, and fortunately shot the animal through the head." + +Here the party came to the mouth of a large river which entered the +Missouri from the northwest, at the site of the latter-day town of +Ophir, Montana. This stream they named Maria's River, in honor of +another Virginia damsel. So large and important in appearance was +Maria's River that the explorers were not certain which was the main +stream, that which came in from the north, or that which, flowing here +in a general course from southwest to northeast, was really the true +Missouri. The journal says: + +"It now became an interesting question, which of these two streams is +what the Minnetarees call Ahmateahza, or Missouri, which they describe +as approaching very near to the Columbia. On our right decision much +of the fate of the expedition depends; since if, after ascending to the +Rocky Mountains or beyond them, we should find that the river we were +following did not come near the Columbia, and be obliged to return, we +should not only lose the travelling season, two months of which have +already elapsed, but probably dishearten the men so much as to induce +them either to abandon the enterprise, or yield us a cold obedience, +instead of the warm and zealous support which they have hitherto +afforded us. We determined, therefore, to examine well before we decided +on our future course. For this purpose we despatched two canoes with +three men up each of the streams, with orders to ascertain the width, +depth, and rapidity of the current, so as to judge of their comparative +bodies of water. At the same time parties were sent out by land +to penetrate the country, and discover from the rising grounds, if +possible, the distant bearings of the two rivers; and all were directed +to return toward evening. . . ." + +Both parties returned without bringing any information that would settle +the point. Which was the true Missouri still remained uncertain. Under +these circumstances, it became necessary that there should be a more +thorough exploration, and the next morning Captains Lewis and Clark +set out at the head of two separate parties, the former to examine the +north, and the latter the south fork. In his progress Captain Lewis and +his party were frequently obliged to quit the course of the river and +cross the plains and hills, but he did not lose sight of its general +direction, and carefully took the bearings of the distant mountains. On +the morning of the third day he became convinced that this river pursued +a course too far north for his contemplated route to the Pacific, and he +accordingly determined to return, but judged it advisable to wait till +noon, that he might obtain a meridian altitude. In this, however, he was +disappointed, owing to the state of the weather. Much rain had fallen, +and their return was somewhat difficult, and not unattended with danger, +as the following incident, which occurred on June 7th, will show: + +"In passing along the side of a bluff at a narrow pass thirty yards +in length, Captain Lewis slipped, and, but for a fortunate recovery by +means of his spontoon, would have been precipitated into the river over +a precipice of about ninety feet. He had just reached a spot where, by +the assistance of his spontoon, he could stand with tolerable safety, +when he heard a voice behind him cry out, 'Good God, captain, what shall +I do?' He turned instantly, and found it was Windsor, who had lost his +foothold about the middle of the narrow pass, and had slipped down to +the very verge of the precipice, where he lay on his belly, with his +right arm and leg over it, while with the other leg and arm he was +with difficulty holding on, to keep himself from being dashed to pieces +below. His dreadful situation was instantly perceived by Captain Lewis, +who, stifling his alarm, calmly told him that he was in no danger; that +he should take his knife out of his belt with his right hand, and dig +a hole in the side of the bluff to receive his right foot. With great +presence of mind he did this, and then raised himself on his knees. +Captain Lewis then told him to take off his moccasins and come forward +on his hands and knees, holding the knife in one hand and his rifle in +the other. He immediately crawled in this way till he came to a secure +spot. The men who had not attempted this passage were ordered to return +and wade the river at the foot of the bluff, where they found the water +breast-high. This adventure taught them the danger of crossing the +slippery heights of the river; but as the plains were intersected by +deep ravines, almost as difficult to pass, they continued down the +river, sometimes in the mud of the low grounds, sometimes up to their +arms in the water; and when it became too deep to wade, they cut +footholds with their knives in the sides of the banks. In this way +they travelled through the rain, mud, and water, and having made only +eighteen miles during the whole day, camped in an old Indian lodge of +sticks, which afforded them a dry shelter. Here they cooked part of six +deer they had killed in the course of their walk, and having eaten the +only morsel they had tasted during the whole day, slept comfortably on +some willow-boughs." + + + + +Chapter X -- To the Great Falls of the Missouri + +Next day, June 8, the Lewis party returned to the main body of the +expedition. They reported that timber was scarce along the river, except +in the lowlands, where there were pretty groves and thickets. These +trees, the journal says, were the haunts of innumerable birds, which, as +the sun rose, sung delightfully:-- + +"Among these birds they distinguished the brown thrush, robin, +turtle-dove, linnet, gold-finch, large and small blackbird, wren, and +some others. As they came along, the whole party were of opinion +that this river was the true Missouri; but Captain Lewis, being fully +persuaded that it was neither the main stream, nor that which it +would be advisable to ascend, gave it the name of Maria's River. +After travelling all day they reached camp about five o'clock in the +afternoon, and found Captain Clark and the party very anxious for their +safety. As they had stayed two days longer than had been expected, and +as Captain Clark had returned at the appointed time, it was feared that +they had met with some accident." + +As we now know, the stream that came in from the north was that which +is still called Maria's (or Marais) River, and the so-called branch from +the southwest was the Missouri River. Lewis and Clark, however, were in +the dark as to the relations of the two streams. Which was the parent? +Which was the branch? After pondering all the evidence that could be +collected to bear on the important question, the two captains agreed +that the southern stream was the true Missouri, and the northern stream +was an important branch. The journal says: + +"These observations, which satisfied our minds completely, we +communicated to the party; but every one of them was of a contrary +opinion. Much of their belief depended on Crusatte, an experienced +waterman on the Missouri, who gave it as his decided judgment that the +north fork was the genuine Missouri. The men, therefore, mentioned that, +although they would most cheerfully follow us wherever we should direct, +yet they were afraid that the south fork would soon terminate in the +Rocky Mountains, and leave us at a great distance from the Columbia. In +order that nothing might be omitted which could prevent our falling into +an error, it was agreed that one of us should ascend the southern branch +by land, until we reached either the falls or the mountains. In the +meantime, in order to lighten our burdens as much as possible, we +determined to deposit here one of the pirogues, and all the heavy +baggage which we could possibly spare, as well as some provision, salt, +powder, and tools. This would at once lighten the other boats, and give +them the crew which had been employed on board the pirogue." + +On the tenth of June, the weather being fair and pleasant, they dried +all their baggage and merchandise and secreted them in places of +deposits, called caches, as follows:-- + +"These deposits--or caches, as they are called by the Missouri +traders--are very common, particularly among those who deal with the +Sioux, as the skins and merchandise will keep perfectly sound for years, +and are protected from robbery. Our cache was built in the usual manner. +In the high plain on the north side of the Missouri, and forty yards +from a steep bluff, we chose a dry situation, and then, describing a +small circle of about twenty inches diameter, removed the sod as gently +and carefully as possible: the hole was then sunk perpendicularly for +a foot deep. It was now worked gradually wider as it descended, till at +length it became six or seven feet deep, shaped nearly like a kettle, +or the lower part of a large still with the bottom somewhat sunk at the +centre. As the earth was dug it was handed up in a vessel, and carefully +laid on a skin or cloth, in which it was carried away and thrown into +the river, so as to leave no trace of it. A floor of three or four +inches in thickness was then made of dry sticks, on which was placed a +hide perfectly dry. The goods, being well aired and dried, were laid on +this floor, and prevented from touching the wall by other dried sticks, +as the merchandise was stowed away. When the hole was nearly full, a +skin was laid over the goods, and on this earth was thrown and beaten +down, until, with the addition of the sod first removed, the whole +was on a level with the ground, and there remained not the slightest +appearance of an excavation. In addition to this, we made another of +smaller dimensions, in which we placed all the baggage, some powder, and +our blacksmith's tools, having previously repaired such of the tools as +we carry with us that require mending. To guard against accident, we had +two parcelss of lead and powder in the two places. The red pirogue was +drawn up on the middle of a small island, at the entrance of Maria's +River, and secured, by being fastened to the trees, from the effects of +any floods. We now took another observation of the meridian altitude of +the sun, and found that the mean latitude of Maria's River, as deduced +from three observations, is 49'0 25' 17.2" N." + +In order to make assurance doubly sure, Captain Lewis resolved to +take four men with him and ascend the south branch (that is, the true +Missouri), before committing the expedition to that route as the final +one. His proposition was that his party should proceed up the river as +rapidly as possible in advance of the main party. On the second day out, +says the journal:-- + +"Captain Lewis left the bank of the river in order to avoid the steep +ravines, which generally run from the shore to the distance of one or +two miles in the plain. Having reached the open country he went for +twelve miles in a course a little to the W. of S.W.; when, the sun +becoming warm by nine o'clock, he returned to the river in quest of +water, and to kill something for breakfast; there being no water in +the plain, and the buffalo, discovering them before they came within +gunshot, took to flight. They reached the banks in a handsome open low +ground with cottonwood, after three miles' walk. Here they saw two large +brown bears, and killed them both at the first fire--a circumstance +which has never before occurred since we have seen that animal. Having +made a meal of a part, and hung the remainder on a tree, with a note for +Captain Clark, they again ascended the bluffs into the open plains. +Here they saw great numbers of the burrowing-squirrel, also some wolves, +antelopes, mule-deer, and vast herds of buffalo. They soon crossed a +ridge considerably higher than the surrounding plains, and from its top +had a beautiful view of the Rocky Mountains, which are now completely +covered with snow. Their general course is from S.E. to N. of N.W., and +they seem to consist of several ranges which successively rise above +each other, till the most distant mingles with the clouds. After +travelling twelve miles they again met the river, where there was a +handsome plain of cottonwood." + +Again leaving the river, Captain Lewis bore off more to the north, the +stream here bearing considerably to the south, with difficult bluffs +along its course. But fearful of passing the Great Falls before reaching +the Rocky Mountains, he again changed his course and, leaving the bluffs +to his right he turned towards the river. + +The journal gives this description of what followed:-- + +"In this direction Captain Lewis had gone about two miles, when his +ears were saluted with the agreeable sound of a fall of water, and as he +advanced a spray, which seemed driven by the high southwest wind, arose +above the plain like a column of smoke, and vanished in an instant. +Toward this point he directed his steps; the noise increased as he +approached, and soon became too tremendous to be mistaken for anything +but the Great Falls of the Missouri. Having travelled seven miles after +first hearing the sound, he reached the falls about twelve o'clock. The +hills as he approached were difficult of access and two hundred feet +high. Down these he hurried with impatience; and, seating himself on +some rocks under the centre of the falls, enjoyed the sublime spectacle +of this stupendous object, which since the creation had been lavishing +its magnificence upon the desert, unknown to civilization. + +"The river immediately at this cascade is three hundred yards wide, and +is pressed in by a perpendicular cliff on the left, which rises to about +one hundred feet and extends up the stream for a mile; on the right the +bluff is also perpendicular for three hundred yards above the falls. For +ninety or one hundred yards from the left cliff, the water falls in +one smooth, even sheet, over a precipice of at least eighty feet. +The remaining part of the river precipitates itself with a more rapid +current, but being received as it falls by the irregular and somewhat +projecting rocks below, forms a splendid prospect of perfectly white +foam, two hundred yards in length and eighty in perpendicular elevation. +This spray is dissipated into a thousand shapes, sometimes flying up in +columns of fifteen or twenty feet, which are then oppressed by larger +masses of the white foam, on all of which the sun impresses the +brightest colors of the rainbow. Below the fall the water beats with +fury against a ledge of rocks, which extends across the river at one +hundred and fifty yards from the precipice. From the perpendicular cliff +on the north to the distance of one hundred and twenty yards, the rocks +are only a few feet above the water; and, when the river is high, the +stream finds a channel across them forty yards wide, and near the higher +parts of the ledge, which rise about twenty feet, and terminate abruptly +within eighty or ninety yards of the southern side. Between them and +the perpendicular cliff on the south, the whole body of water runs with +great swiftness. A few small cedars grow near this ridge of rocks, which +serves as a barrier to defend a small plain of about three acres, shaded +with cottonwood; at the lower extremity of which is a grove of the same +trees, where are several deserted Indian cabins of sticks; below which +the river is divided by a large rock, several feet above the surface +of the water, and extending down the stream for twenty yards. At the +distance of three hundred yards from the same ridge is a second abutment +of solid perpendicular rock, about sixty feet high, projecting at right +angles from the small plain on the north for one hundred and thirty-four +yards into the river. After leaving this, the Missouri again spreads +itself to its previous breadth of three hundred yards, though with more +than its ordinary rapidity." + +One of Lewis's men was sent back to inform Captain Clark of this +momentous discovery, which finally settled all doubt as to which was +the true Missouri. The famous Great Falls of the river had been finally +reached. Captain Lewis next went on to examine the rapids above the +falls. The journal says:-- + +"After passing one continued rapid and three cascades, each three or +four feet high, he reached, at the distance of five miles, a second +fall. The river is here about four hundred yards wide, and for the +distance of three hundred rushes down to the depth of nineteen feet, and +so irregularly that he gave it the name of the Crooked Falls. From the +southern shore it extends obliquely upward about one hundred and fifty +yards, and then forms an acute angle downward nearly to the commencement +of four small islands close to the northern side. From the perpendicular +pitch to these islands, a distance of more than one hundred yards, the +water glides down a sloping rock with a velocity almost equal to that +of its fall: above this fall the river bends suddenly to the northward. +While viewing this place, Captain Lewis heard a loud roar above him, +and, crossing the point of a hill a few hundred yards, he saw one of the +most beautiful objects in nature: the whole Missouri is suddenly stopped +by one shelving rock, which, without a single niche, and with an edge as +straight and regular as if formed by art, stretches itself from one side +of the river to the other for at least a quarter of a mile. Over this +it precipitates itself in an even, uninterrupted sheet, to the +perpendicular depth of fifty feet, whence, dashing against the rocky +bottom, it rushes rapidly down, leaving behind it a sheet of the +purest foam across the river. The scene which it presented was indeed +singularly beautiful; since, without any of the wild, irregular +sublimity of the lower falls, it combined all the regular elegancies +which the fancy of a painter would select to form a beautiful waterfall. +The eye had scarcely been regaled with this charming prospect, when at +the distance of half a mile Captain Lewis observed another of a similar +kind. To this he immediately hastened, and found a cascade stretching +across the whole river for a quarter of a mile, with a descent of +fourteen feet, though the perpendicular pitch was only six feet. This, +too, in any other neighborhood, would have been an object of great +magnificence; but after what he had just seen, it became of secondary +interest. His curiosity being, however, awakened, he determined to go +on, even should night overtake him, to the head of the falls. + +"He therefore pursued the southwest course of the river, which was one +constant succession of rapids and small cascades, at every one of which +the bluffs grew lower, or the bed of the river became more on a level +with the plains. At the distance of two and one-half miles he arrived +at another cataract, of twenty-six feet. The river is here six hundred +yards wide, but the descent is not immediately perpendicular, though +the river falls generally with a regular and smooth sheet; for about +one-third of the descent a rock protrudes to a small distance, receives +the water in its passage, and gives it a curve. On the south side is a +beautiful plain, a few feet above the level of the falls; on the north, +the country is more broken, and there is a hill not far from the river. +Just below the falls is a little island in the middle of the river, well +covered with timber. Here on a cottonwood tree an eagle had fixed her +nest, and seemed the undisputed mistress of a spot, to contest whose +dominion neither man nor beast would venture across the gulfs that +surround it, and which is further secured by the mist rising from +the falls. This solitary bird could not escape the observation of the +Indians, who made the eagle's nest a part of their description of the +falls, which now proves to be correct in almost every particular, except +that they did not do justice to the height. + +"Just above this is a cascade of about five feet, beyond which, as +far as could be discerned, the velocity of the water seemed to abate. +Captain Lewis now ascended the hill which was behind him, and saw from +its top a delightful plain, extending from the river to the base of the +Snowy (Rocky) Mountains to the south and southwest. Along this wide, +level country the Missouri pursued its winding course, filled with water +to its smooth, grassy banks, while about four miles above, it was joined +by a large river flowing from the northwest, through a valley three +miles in width, and distinguished by the timber which adorned its +shores. The Missouri itself stretches to the south, in one unruffled +stream of water, as if unconscious of the roughness it must soon +encounter, and bearing on its bosom vast flocks of geese, while numerous +herds of buffalo are feeding on the plains which surround it. + +"Captain Lewis then descended the hill, and directed his course towards +the river falling in from the west. He soon met a herd of at least a +thousand buffalo, and, being desirous of providing for supper, shot one +of them. The animal immediately began to bleed, and Captain Lewis, who +had forgotten to reload his rifle, was intently watching to see him +fall, when he beheld a large brown bear which was stealing on him +unperceived, and was already within twenty steps. In the first moment of +surprise he lifted his rifle; but, remembering instantly that it was not +charged, and that he had no time to reload, he felt that there was no +safety but in flight. It was in the open, level plain; not a bush nor a +tree within three hundred yards; the bank of the river sloping, and +not more than three feet high, so that there was no possible mode of +concealment. Captain Lewis, therefore, thought of retreating with a +quick walk, as fast as the bear advanced, towards the nearest tree; but, +as soon as he turned, the bear rushed open-mouthed, and at full speed, +upon him. Captain Lewis ran about eighty yards, but finding that the +animal gained on him fast, it flashed on his mind that, by getting into +the water to such a depth that the bear would be obliged to attack him +swimming, there was still some chance of his life; he therefore turned +short, plunged into the river about waist-deep, and facing about +presented the point of his espontoon. The bear arrived at the water's +edge within twenty feet of him; but as soon as he put himself in this +posture of defence, the bear seemed frightened, and wheeling about, +retreated with as much precipitation as he had pursued. Very glad to +be released from this danger, Captain Lewis returned to the shore, +and observed him run with great speed, sometimes looking back as if he +expected to be pursued, till he reached the woods. He could not conceive +the cause of the sudden alarm of the bear, but congratulated himself +on his escape when he saw his own track torn to pieces by the furious +animal, and learned from the whole adventure never to suffer his rifle +to be a moment unloaded." + +Captain Lewis now resumed his progress towards the western, or Sun, +River, then more commonly known among the Indians as Medicine River. +In going through the lowlands of this stream, he met an animal which he +thought was a wolf, but which was more likely a wolverine, or carcajou. +The journal says:-- + +"It proved to be some brownish yellow animal, standing near its burrow, +which, when he came nigh, crouched, and seemed as if about to spring on +him. Captain Lewis fired, and the beast disappeared in its burrow. From +the track, and the general appearance of the animal, he supposed it +to be of the tiger kind. He then went on; but, as if the beasts of +the forest had conspired against him, three buffalo bulls, which were +feeding with a large herd at the distance of half a mile, left their +companions, and ran at full speed towards him. He turned round, and, +unwilling to give up the field, advanced to meet them: when they were +within a hundred yards they stopped, looked at him for some time, and +then retreated as they came. He now pursued his route in the dark, +reflecting on the strange adventures and sights of the day, which +crowded on his mind so rapidly, that he should have been inclined to +believe it all enchantment if the thorns of the prickly pear, piercing +his feet, had not dispelled at every moment the illusion. He at last +reached the party, who had been very anxious for his safety, and who had +already decided on the route which each should take in the morning to +look for him. Being much fatigued, he supped, and slept well during the +night." + +On awaking the next morning, Captain Lewis found a large rattlesnake +coiled on the trunk of a tree under which he had been sleeping. He +killed it, and found it like those he had seen before, differing from +those of the Atlantic States, not in its colors, but in the form and +arrangement of them. Information was received that Captain Clark had +arrived five miles below, at a rapid which he did not think it prudent +to ascend, and that he was waiting there for the party above to rejoin +him. + +After the departure of Captain Lewis, Captain Clark had remained a day +at Maria's River, to complete the deposit of such articles as they could +dispense with, and started on the twelfth of June. + +Four days later, Captain Clark left the river, having sent his messenger +to Captain Lewis, and began to search for a proper portage to convey the +pirogue and canoes across to the Columbia River, leaving most of the +men to hunt, make wheels and draw the canoes up a creek which they named +Portage Creek, as it was to be the base of their future operations. The +stream is now known as Belt Mountain Creek. But the explorers soon +found that although the pirogue was to be left behind, the way was too +difficult for a portage even for canoes. The journal says:-- + +"We found great difficulty and some danger in even ascending the creek +thus far, in consequence of the rapids and rocks of the channel of the +creek, which just above where we brought the canoes has a fall of +five feet, with high steep bluffs beyond it. We were very fortunate in +finding, just below Portage Creek, a cottonwood tree about twenty-two +inches in diameter, large enough to make the carriage-wheels. It was, +perhaps, the only one of the same size within twenty miles; and the +cottonwood which we are obliged to employ in the other parts of the work +is extremely soft and brittle. The mast of the white pirogue, which we +mean to leave behind, supplied us with two axle-trees. + +"There are vast quantities of buffalo feeding on the plains or watering +in the river, which is also strewed with the floating carcasses and +limbs of these animals. They go in large herds to water about the falls, +and as all the passages to the river near that place are narrow and +steep, the foremost are pressed into the river by the impatience of +those behind. In this way we have seen ten or a dozen disappear over +the falls in a few minutes. They afford excellent food for the wolves, +bears, and birds of prey; which circumstance may account for the +reluctance of the bears to yield their dominion over the neighborhood. + +"The pirogue was drawn up a little below our camp, and secured in a +thick copse of willow-bushes. We now began to form a cache or place +of deposit, and to dry our goods and other articles which required +inspection. The wagons are completed. Our hunters brought us ten deer, +and we shot two out of a herd of buffalo that came to water at Sulphur +Spring. There is a species of gooseberry, growing abundantly among the +rocks on the sides of the cliffs. It is now ripe, of a pale red color, +about the size of the common gooseberry, and like it is an ovate +pericarp of soft pulp enveloping a number of small whitish seeds, and +consisting of a yellowish, slimy, mucilaginous substance, with a sweet +taste; the surface of the berry is covered glutinous, adhesive matter, +and its fruit, though ripe, retains its withered corolla. The shrub +itself seldom rises more than two feet high, is much branched, and has +no thorns. The leaves resemble those of the common gooseberry, except +in being smaller, and the berry is supported by separate peduncles or +foot-stalks half an inch long. There are also immense quantities +of grasshoppers, of a brown color, on the plains; they, no doubt, +contribute to the lowness of the grass, which is not generally more than +three inches high, though it is soft, narrow-leaved, and affords a fine +pasture for the buffalo." + + + + +Chapter XI -- A the Heart of the Continent + +Captain Clark continued his observations up the long series of rapids +and falls until he came to a group of three small islands to which +he gave the name of White Bear Islands, from his having seen numerous +white, or grizzly, bears on them. On the nineteenth of June, Captain +Clark, after a careful survey of the country on both sides of the +stream, decided that the best place for a portage was on the south, or +lower, side of the river, the length of the portage being estimated +to be about eighteen miles, over which the canoes and supplies must +be carried. Next day he proceeded to mark out the exact route of the +portage, or carry, by driving stakes along its lines and angles. From +the survey and drawing which he made, the party now had a clear and +accurate view of the falls, cascades, and rapids of the Missouri; and, +it may be added, this draught, which is reproduced on another page +of this book, is still so correct in all its measurements that when a +Montana manufacturing company undertook to build a dam at Black Eagle +Falls, nearly one hundred years afterwards, they discovered that their +surveys and those of Captain Clark were precisely alike. The total fall +of the river, from the White Bear Islands, as Lewis and Clark called +them, to the foot of the Great Falls, is four hundred twelve and +five-tenths feet; the sheer drop of the Great Fall is seventy-five and +five-tenths feet. The wild, trackless prairie of Lewis and Clark's +time is now the site of the thriving town of Great Falls, which has a +population of ten thousand. + +Here is a lucid and connected account of the falls and rapids, +discovered and described by Lewis and Clark: + +"This river is three hundred yards wide at the point where it +receives the waters of Medicine (Sun) River, which is one hundred and +thirty-seven yards in width. The united current continues three hundred +and twenty-eight poles to a small rapid on the north side, from which it +gradually widens to fourteen hundred yards, and at the distance of five +hundred and forty-eight poles reaches the head of the rapids, narrowing +as it approaches them. Here the hills on the north, which had withdrawn +from the bank, closely border the river, which, for the space of three +hundred and twenty poles, makes its way over the rocks, with a descent +of thirty feet. In this course the current is contracted to five hundred +and eighty yards, and after throwing itself over a small pitch of five +feet, forms a beautiful cascade of twenty-six feet five inches; this +does not, however, fall immediately or perpendicularly, being stopped by +a part of the rock, which projects at about one-third of the distance. +After descending this fall, and passing the cottonwood island on which +the eagle has fixed her nest, the river goes on for five hundred and +thirty-two poles over rapids and little falls, the estimated descent +of which is thirteen and one-half feet, till it is joined by a large +fountain boiling up underneath the rocks near the edge of the river, +into which it falls with a cascade of eight feet. The water of this +fountain is of the most perfect clearness, and of rather a bluish cast; +and, even after falling into the Missouri, it preserves its color +for half a mile. From the fountain the river descends with increased +rapidity for the distance of two hundred and fourteen poles, during +which the estimated descent is five feet; and from this, for a distance +of one hundred and thirty-five poles, it descends fourteen feet seven +inches, including a perpendicular fall of six feet seven inches. +The Missouri has now become pressed into a space of four hundred and +seventy-three yards, and here forms a grand cataract, by falling over +a plain rock the whole distance across the river, to the depth of +forty-seven feet eight inches. After recovering itself, it then proceeds +with an estimated descent of three feet, till, at the distance of +one hundred and two poles, it is precipitated down the Crooked Falls +nineteen feet perpendicular. Below this, at the mouth of a deep ravine, +is a fall of five feet; after which, for the distance of nine hundred +and seventy poles, the descent is much more gradual, not being more than +ten feet, and then succeeds a handsome level plain for the space of one +hundred and seventy-eight poles, with a computed descent of three feet, +the river making a bend towards the north. Thence it descends, for four +hundred and eighty poles, about eighteen and one-half feet, when it +makes a perpendicular fall of two feet, which is ninety poles beyond the +great cataract; in approaching which, it descends thirteen feet within +two hundred yards, and, gathering strength from its confined channel, +which is only two hundred and eighty yards wide, rushes over the fall to +the depth of eighty-seven feet. + +"After raging among the rocks, and losing itself in foam, it is +compressed immediately into a bed of ninety-three yards in width: it +continues for three hundred and forty poles to the entrance of a run or +deep ravine, where there is a fall of three feet, which, added to the +decline during that distance, makes the descent six feet. As it goes +on, the descent within the next two hundred and forty poles is only +four feet; from this, passing a run or deep ravine, the descent in four +hundred poles is thirteen feet; within two hundred and forty poles, +another descent of eighteen feet; thence, in one hundred and sixty +poles, a descent of six feet; after which, to the mouth of Portage +Creek, a distance of two hundred and eighty poles, the descent is +ten feet. From this survey and estimate, it results that the river +experiences a descent of three hundred and fifty-two feet in the +distance of two and three quarter miles, from the commencement of the +rapids to the mouth of Portage Creek, exclusive of the almost impassable +rapids which extend for a mile below its entrance." + +On the twenty-first of the month, all the needed preparations having +been finished, the arduous work of making the portage, or carry, was +begun. All the members of the expedition were now together, and the two +captains divided with their men the labor of hunting, carrying luggage, +boat-building, exploring, and so on. They made three camps, the lower +one on Portage Creek, the next at Willow Run (see map), and a third at +a point opposite White Bear Islands. The portage was not completed until +July second. They were often delayed by the breaking down of their rude +carriages, and during the last stage of their journey much of their +luggage was carried on the backs of the men. They were also very much +annoyed with the spines of the prickly pear, a species of cactus, +which, growing low on the ground, is certain to be trampled upon by the +wayfarer. The spines ran through the moccasins of the men and sorely +wounded their feet. Thus, under date of June twenty-fourth, the journal +says (It should be understood that the portage was worked from above and +below the rapids):-- + +"On going down yesterday Captain Clark cut off several angles of the +former route, so as to shorten the portage considerably, and marked it +with stakes. He arrived there in time to have two of the canoes carried +up in the high plain, about a mile in advance. Here they all repaired +their moccasins, and put on double soles to protect them from the +prickly pear, and from the sharp points of earth which have been formed +by the trampling of the buffalo during the late rains. This of itself is +sufficient to render the portage disagreeable to one who has no burden; +but as the men are loaded as heavily as their strength will permit, the +crossing is really painful. Some are limping with the soreness of their +feet; others are scarcely able to stand for more than a few minutes, +from the heat and fatigue. They are all obliged to halt and rest +frequently; at almost every stopping-place they fall, and many of them +are asleep in an instant; yet no one complains, and they go on with +great cheerfulness. At the camp, midway in the portage, Drewyer and +Fields joined them; for, while Captain Lewis was looking for them at +Medicine River, they returned to report the absence of Shannon, about +whom they had been very uneasy. They had killed several buffalo at the +bend of the Missouri above the falls, dried about eight hundred pounds +of meat, and got one hundred pounds of tallow; they had also killed some +deer, but had seen no elk." + +Under this date, too, Captain Lewis, who was with another branch of the +expedition, makes this note: "Such as were able to shake a foot amused +themselves in dancing on the green to the music of the violin which +Cruzatte plays extremely well." + +The journal continues:-- + +"We were now occupied (at White Bear camp) in fitting up a boat of +skins, the frame of which had been prepared for the purpose at Harper's +Ferry in Virginia. It was made of iron, thirty-six feet long, four and +one-half feet in the beam, and twenty-six inches wide in the bottom. Two +men had been sent this morning for timber to complete it, but they could +find scarcely any even tolerably straight sticks four and one-half feet +long; and as the cottonwood is too soft and brittle, we were obliged to +use willow and box-elder." + +On the twenty-seventh, the main party, which was working on the upper +part of the portage, joined that of Captain Clark at the lower camp, +where a second cache, or place of deposit, had been formed, and where +the boat-swivel was now hidden under the rocks. The journal says:-- + +"The party were employed in preparing timber for the boat, except two +who were sent to hunt. About one in the afternoon a cloud arose from +the southwest, and brought with it violent thunder, lightning, and hail. +Soon after it passed, the hunters came in, from about four miles above +us. They had killed nine elk and three bears. As they were hunting on +the river they saw a low ground covered with thick brushwood, where from +the tracks along shore they thought a bear had probably taken refuge. +They therefore landed, without making a noise, and climbed a tree about +twenty feet above the ground. Having fixed themselves securely, they +raised a loud shout, and a bear instantly rushed toward them. These +animals never climb, and therefore when he came to the tree and stopped +to look at them, Drewyer shot him in the head. He proved to be the +largest we had yet seen; his nose appeared to be like that of a common +ox; his fore feet measured nine inches across; the hind feet were seven +inches wide and eleven and three quarters long, exclusive of the talons. +One of these animals came within thirty yards of the camp last night, +and carried off some buffalo-meat which we had placed on a pole." + +The party were very much annoyed here by the grizzlies which infested +their camp at night. Their faithful dog always gave warning of the +approach of one of these monsters; but the men were obliged to sleep +with their guns by their side, ready to repel the enemy at a moment's +notice. + +Captain Clark finally broke up the camp on Portage Creek, June 28, +having deposited in his cache whatever could be left behind without +inconvenience. "On the following day," the journal says:-- + +"Finding it impossible to reach the upper end of the portage with the +present load, in consequence of the state of the road after the rain, he +sent back nearly all his party to bring on the articles which had been +left yesterday. Having lost some notes and remarks which he had made +on first ascending the river, he determined to go up to the Whitebear +Islands along its banks, in order to supply the deficiency. He there +left one man to guard the baggage, and went on to the falls, accompanied +by his servant York, Chaboneau, and his wife with her young child. + +"On his arrival there he observed a very dark cloud rising in the west, +which threatened rain, and looked around for some shelter; but could +find no place where the party would be secure from being blown into the +river, if the wind should prove as violent as it sometimes does in the +plains. At length, about a quarter of a mile above the falls, he found +a deep ravine, where there were some shelving rocks, under which he +took refuge. They were on the upper side of the ravine near the river, +perfectly safe from the rain, and therefore laid down their guns, +compass, and other articles which they carried with them. The shower +was at first moderate; it then increased to a heavy rain, the effects +of which they did not feel; but soon after, a torrent of rain and hail +descended. The rain seemed to fall in a solid mass, and instantly, +collecting in the ravine, came rolling down in a dreadful current, +carrying the mud, rocks, and everything that opposed it. Captain Clark +fortunately saw it a moment before it reached them, and springing up +with his gun and shot-pouch in his left hand, with his right clambered +up the steep bluff, pushing on the Indian woman with her child in her +arms; her husband too had seized her hand and was pulling her tip the +hill, but he was so terrified at the danger that he remained frequently +motionless; and but for Captain Clark, himself and his wife and child +would have been lost. So instantaneous was the rise of the water that, +before Captain Clark had reached his gun and begun to ascend the bank, +the water was up to his waist, and he could scarcely get up faster than +it rose, till it reached the height of fifteen feet, with a furious +current which, had they waited a moment longer, would have swept +them into the river just above the Great Falls, down which they must +inevitably have been precipitated. They reached the plain in safety and +found York, who had separated from them just before the storm to hunt +some buffalo, and was now returning to find his master. They had been +obliged to escape so rapidly that Captain Clark lost his compass (that +is, circumferentor) and umbrella, Chaboneau left his gun, with Captain +Lewis' wiping-rod, shot-pouch, and tomahawk, and the Indian woman had +just time to grasp her child, before the net in which it lay at her feet +was carried down the current." + +Such a storm is known in the West as a cloud-burst. Overland emigrants +in the early rush to California often suffered loss from these sudden +deluges. A party of men, with wagons and animals, have been known to +be swept away and lost in a flood bursting in a narrow canyon in the +mountains. + +"Captain Clark now relinquished his intention of going up the river, and +returned to the camp at Willow Run. Here he found that the party +sent this morning for the baggage had all returned to camp in great +confusion, leaving their loads in the plain. On account of the heat, +they generally go nearly naked, and with no covering on their heads. +The hail was so large, and driven so furiously against them by the high +wind, that it knocked several of them down: one of them, particularly, +was thrown on the ground three times, and most of them were bleeding +freely, and complained of being much bruised. Willow Run had risen six +feet since the rain; and, as the plains were so wet that they could not +proceed, they passed the night at their camp. + +"At the White Bear camp, also," (says Lewis), "we had not been +insensible to the hailstorm, though less exposed. In the morning there +had been a heavy shower of rain, after which it became fair. After +assigning to the men their respective employments, Captain Lewis took +one of them, and went to see the large fountain near the falls. . . . It +is, perhaps, the largest in America, and is situated in a pleasant level +plain, about twenty-five yards from the river, into which it falls over +some steep, irregular rocks, with a sudden ascent of about six feet in +one part of its course. The water boils up from among the rocks, and +with such force near the centre that the surface seems higher there than +the earth on the sides of the fountain, which is a handsome turf of +fine green grass. The water is extremely pure, cold, and pleasant to the +taste, not being impregnated with lime or any foreign substance. It is +perfectly transparent, and continues its bluish cast for half a mile +down the Missouri, notwithstanding the rapidity of the river. After +examining it for some time, Captain Lewis returned to the camp. . . ." + +"Two men were sent (June 30) to the falls to look for the articles +lost yesterday; but they found nothing but the compass, covered with mud +and sand, at the mouth of the ravine. The place at which Captain Clark +had been caught by the storm was filled with large rocks. The men +complain much of the bruises received yesterday from the hail. A +more than usual number of buffalo appeared about the camp to-day, and +furnished plenty of meat. Captain Clark thought that at one view he must +have seen at least ten thousand." + +Of the party at the upper camp, opposite White Bear Islands, the journal +makes this observation:-- + +"The party continues to be occupied with the boat, the cross-bars for +which are now finished, and there remain only the strips to complete the +woodwork. The skins necessary to cover it have already been prepared; +they amount to twenty-eight elk-skins and four buffalo-skins. Among our +game were two beaver, which we have had occasion to observe are found +wherever there is timber. We also killed a large bull-bat or goatsucker, +of which there are many in this neighborhood, resembling in every +respect those of the same species in the United States. We have not seen +the leather-winged bat for some time, nor are there any of the small +goatsucker in this part of the Missouri. We have not seen that species +of goatsucker called the whippoorwill, which is commonly confounded in +the United States with the large goatsucker which we observe here. +This last prepares no nest, but lays its eggs on the open plains; they +generally begin to sit on two eggs, and we believe raise only one brood +in a season; at the present moment they are just hatching their young." + +Dr. Coues says that we should bear in mind that this was written "when +bats were birds and whales were fishes for most persons." The journal +confounds bats, which are winged mammals, with goatsuckers, or +whippoorwills, which are birds. + +The second of July was an interesting date for the explorers. On that +day we find the following entry in their journal:-- + +"A shower of rain fell very early this morning. We then despatched some +men for the baggage left behind yesterday, and the rest were engaged in +putting the boat together. This was accomplished in about three hours, +and then we began to sew on the leather over the crossbars of iron on +the inner side of the boat which form the ends of the sections. By two +o'clock the last of the baggage arrived, to the great delight of +the party, who were anxious to proceed. The mosquitoes we find very +troublesome. + +"Having completed our celestial observations, we went over to the large +island to make an attack upon its inhabitants, the bears, which have +annoyed us very much of late, and were prowling about our camp all last +night. We found that the part of the island frequented by the bears +forms an almost impenetrable thicket of the broad-leaved willow. Into +this we forced our way in parties of three; but could see only one bear, +which instantly attacked Drewyer. Fortunately, as he was rushing on, the +hunter shot him through the heart within twenty paces and he fell, which +enabled Drewyer to get out of his way. We then followed him one hundred +yards, and found that the wound had been mortal. + +"Not being able to discover any more of these animals, we returned +to camp. Here, in turning over some of the baggage, we caught a rat +somewhat larger than the common European rat, and of a lighter color; +the body and outer parts of the legs and head of a light lead color; the +inner side of the legs, as well as the belly, feet, and ears, white; the +ears are not covered with hair, and are much larger than those of the +common rat; the toes also are longer; the eyes are black and prominent, +the whiskers very long and full; the tail is rather longer than the +body, and covered with fine fur and hair of the same size with that on +the back, which is very close, short, and silky in its texture. This was +the first we had met, although its nests are very frequent in the cliffs +of rocks and hollow trees, where we also found large quantities of the +shells and seed of the prickly-pear." + +The queer rat discovered by Lewis and Clark was then unknown to science. +It is now known in the Far West as the pack-rat. It lives in holes and +crevices of the rocks, and it subsists on the shells and seeds of the +prickly pear, which is usually abundant in the hunting grounds of the +little animal. The explorers were now constantly in full view of the +Rocky Mountain, on which, however, their present title had not then been +conferred. Under date of July 2, the journal says:-- + +"The mosquitoes are uncommonly troublesome. The wind was again high +from the southwest. These winds are in fact always the coldest and most +violent which we experience, and the hypothesis which we have formed +on that subject is, that the air, coming in contact with the Snowy +Mountains, immediately becomes chilled and condensed, and being thus +rendered heavier than the air below, it descends into the rarefied air +below, or into the vacuum formed by the constant action of the sun +on the open unsheltered plains. The clouds rise suddenly near these +mountains, and distribute their contents partially over the neighboring +plains. The same cloud will discharge hail alone in one part, hail and +rain in another, and rain only in a third, all within the space of a few +miles; while at the same time there is snow falling on the mountains +to the southeast of us. There is at present no snow on those mountains; +that which covered them on our arrival, as well as that which has since +fallen, having disappeared. The mountains to the north and northwest +of us are still entirely covered with snow; indeed, there has been no +perceptible diminution of it since we first saw them, which induces a +belief either that the clouds prevailing at this season do not reach +their summits or that they deposit their snow only. They glisten with +great beauty when the sun shines on them in a particular direction, and +most probably from this glittering appearance have derived the name of +the Shining Mountains." + +A mysterious noise, heard by the party, here engaged their attention, +as it did years afterwards the attention of other explorers. The journal +says:-- + +"Since our arrival at the falls we have repeatedly heard a strange noise +coming from the mountains in a direction a little to the north of west. +It is heard at different periods of the day and night (sometimes when +the air is perfectly still and without a cloud), and consists of one +stroke only, or of five or six discharges in quick succession. It is +loud, and resembles precisely the sound of a six-pound piece of ordnance +at the distance of three miles. The Minnetarees frequently mentioned +this noise, like thunder, which they said the mountains made; but we had +paid no attention to it, believing it to have been some superstition, or +perhaps a falsehood. The watermen also of the party say that the +Pawnees and Ricaras give the same account of a noise heard in the Black +Mountains to the westward of them. The solution of the mystery given by +the philosophy of the watermen is, that it is occasioned by the bursting +of the rich mines of silver confined within the bosom of the mountains." + +Of these strange noises there are many explanations, the most plausible +being that they are caused by the explosion of the species of stone +known as the geode, fragments of which are frequently found among the +mountains. The geode has a hollow cell within, lined with beautiful +crystals of many colors. + +Independence Day, 1805, was celebrated with becoming patriotism and +cheerfulness by these far-wandering adventurers. Their record says:-- + +"An elk and a beaver are all that were killed to-day; the buffalo seem +to have withdrawn from our neighborhood, though several of the men, who +went to-day to visit the falls for the first time, mention that they +are still abundant at that place. We contrived, however, to spread not +a very sumptuous but a comfortable table in honor of the day, and in +the evening gave the men a drink of spirits, which was the last of our +stock. Some of them appeared sensible to the effects of even so small +a quantity; and as is usual among them on all festivals, the fiddle was +produced and a dance begun, which lasted till nine o'clock, when it was +interrupted by a heavy shower of rain. They continued their merriment, +however, till a late hour." + +Their bill-of-fare, according to Captain Lewis, was bacon, beans, suet +dumplings, and buffalo meat, which, he says, "gave them no just cause to +covet the sumptuous feasts of our countrymen on this day." More than a +year passed before they again saw and tasted spirits. + +Great expectations were entertained of the boat that was built here on +the iron frame brought all the way from Harper's Ferry, Virginia. The +frame was covered with dressed skins of buffalo and elk, the seams being +coated with a composition of powdered charcoal and beeswax, in default +of tar or pitch. This craft was well named the "Experiment," and a +disappointing experiment it proved to be. Here is Captain Lewis' account +of her failure: + +"The boat having now become sufficiently dry, we gave her a coat of the +composition, which after a proper interval was repeated, and the next +morning, Tuesday, July 9th, she was launched into the water, and swam +perfectly well. The seats were then fixed and the oars fitted; but +after we had loaded her, as well as the canoes, and were on the point of +setting out, a violent wind caused the waves to wet the baggage, so +that we were forced to unload the boats. The wind continued high until +evening, when to our great disappointment we discovered that nearly +all the composition had separated from the skins and left the seams +perfectly exposed; so that the boat now leaked very much. To repair this +misfortune without pitch is impossible, and as none of that article +is to be procured, we therefore, however reluctantly, are obliged to +abandon her, after having had so much labor in the construction. We now +saw that the section of the boat covered with buffalo-skins on which +hair had been left answered better than the elk-skins, and leaked but +little; while that part which was covered with hair about one-eighth of +an inch retained the composition perfectly, and remained sound and +dry. From this we perceived that had we employed buffalo instead of +elk skins, not singed them so closely as we did, and carefully avoided +cutting the leather in sewing, the boat would have been sufficient even +with the present composition; or had we singed instead of shaving the +elk-skins, we might have succeeded. But we discovered our error too +late; the buffalo had deserted us, and the travelling season was so +fast advancing that we had no time to spare for experiments; therefore, +finding that she could be no longer useful, she was sunk in the water, +so as to soften the skins, and enable us the more easily to take her to +pieces. + +"It now became necessary to provide other means for transporting the +baggage which we had intended to stow in her. For this purpose we shall +want two more canoes; but for many miles--from below the mouth of the +Musselshell River to this place--we have not seen a single tree fit to +be used in that way. The hunters, however, who have hitherto been sent +after timber, mention that there is a low ground on the opposite side of +the river, about eight miles above us by land, and more than twice that +distance by water, in which we may probably find trees large enough for +our purposes. Captain Clark determined, therefore, to set out by land +for that place with ten of the best workmen, who would be occupied in +building the canoes till the rest of the party, after taking the boat to +pieces, and making the necessary deposits, should transport the baggage, +and join them with the other six canoes. + +"He accordingly passed over to the opposite side of the river with his +party next day, and proceeded on eight miles by land, the distance by +water being twenty-three and three quarter miles. Here he found two +cottonwood trees; but, on cutting them down, one proved to be hollow, +split at the top in falling, and both were much damaged at the bottom. +He searched the neighborhood, but could find none which would suit +better, and therefore was obliged to make use of those which he had +felled, shortening them in order to avoid the cracks, and supplying the +deficiency by making them as wide as possible. They were equally at a +loss for wood of which they might make handles for their axes, the eyes +of which not being round, they were obliged to split the timber in such +a manner that thirteen of the handles broke in the course of the day, +though made of the best wood they could find for the purpose, which was +the chokecherry. + +"The rest of the party took the frame of the boat to pieces, deposited +it in a cache or hole, with a draught of the country from Fort Mandan +to this place, and also some other papers and small articles of less +importance." + +High winds prevented the party from making rapid progress, and +notwithstanding the winds they were greatly troubled with mosquitoes. +Lest the reader should think the explorers too sensitive on the +subject of these troublesome pests, it should be said that only western +travellers can realize the numbers and venom of the mosquitoes of that +region. Early emigrants across the continent were so afflicted by these +insects that the air at times seemed full of gray clouds of them. It +was the custom of the wayfarers to build a "smudge," as it was called, +a low, smouldering fire of green boughs and brush, the dense smoke +from which (almost as annoying as the mosquitoes) would drive off their +persecutors as long, as the victims sat in the smoke. The sleeping tent +was usually cleared in this way before "turning in" at night, every +opening of the canvas being afterwards closed. + +Captain Lewis, on the thirteenth of July, followed Captain Clark up the +river; crossing the stream to the north bank, with his six canoes and +all his baggage, he overtook the other party on the same day and found +them all engaged in boat-building. + +"On his way he passed a very large Indian lodge, which was probably +designed as a great council-house; but it differed in its construction +from all that we had seen, lower down the Missouri or elsewhere. The +form of it was a circle two hundred and sixteen feet in circumference at +the base; it was composed of sixteen large cottonwood poles about fifty +feet long and at their thicker ends, which touched the ground, about the +size of a man's body. They were distributed at equal distances, except +that one was omitted to the cast, probably for the entrance. From the +circumference of this circle the poles converged toward the centre, +where they were united and secured by large withes of willow-brush. +There was no covering over this fabric, in the centre of which were +the remains of a large fire, and around it the marks of about eighty +leathern lodges. He also saw a number of turtle-doves, and some pigeons, +of which he shot one, differing in no respect from the wild pigeon of +the United States. . . ." + +"The buffalo have not yet quite gone, for the hunters brought in three, +in very good order. It requires some diligence to supply us plentifully, +for as we reserve our parched meal for the Rocky Mountains, where we do +not expect to find much game, our principal article of food is meat, and +the consumption of the whole thirty-two persons belonging to the +party amounts to four deer, an elk and a deer, or one buffalo, every +twenty-four hours. The mosquitoes and gnats persecute us as violently as +below, so that we can get no sleep unless defended by biers (nets), with +which we are all provided. We here found several plants hitherto unknown +to us, of which we preserved specimens." + +On the fourteenth of July, the boats were finally launched, and next day +the journal records this important event: + +"We rose early, embarked all our baggage on board the canoes, which, +though eight in number, are heavily loaded, and at ten o'clock set out +on our journey. . . . At the distance of seven and a half miles we came +to the lower point of a woodland, at the entrance of a beautiful river, +which, in honor of the Secretary of the Navy, we called Smith's River. +This stream falls into a bend on the south side of the Missouri, and +is eighty yards wide. As far as we could discern its course, it wound +through a charming valley towards the southeast, in which many herds +of buffalo were feeding, till, at the distance of twenty-five miles, it +entered the Rocky Mountains and was lost from our view. . . . + +"We find the prickly pear, one of the greatest beauties as well as +greatest inconveniences of the plains, now in full bloom. The sunflower, +too, a plant common on every part of the Missouri from its entrance to +this place, is here very abundant, and in bloom. The lamb's-quarter, +wild cucumber, sand-rush, and narrow dock, are also common." + +The journal here records the fact that the great river had now become so +crooked that it was expedient to note only its general course, leaving +out all description of its turns and windings. The Missouri was now +flowing due north, leaving its bends out of account, and the explorers, +ascending the river, were therefore travelling south; and although the +journal sets forth "the north bank" and "the south bank," it should be +understood that west is meant by the one, and east by the other. Buffalo +were observed in great numbers. Many obstacles to navigating the river +were encountered. Under date of July 17, the journal says: + +"The navigation is now very laborious. The river is deep, but with +little current, and from seventy to one hundred yards wide; the low +grounds are very narrow, with but little timber, and that chiefly the +aspen tree. The cliffs are steep, and hang over the river so much that +often we could not cross them, but were obliged to pass and repass from +one side of the river to the other, in order to make our way. In +some places the banks are formed of dark or black granite rising +perpendicularly to a great height, through which the river seems, in the +progress of time, to have worn its channel. On these mountains we see +more pine than usual, but it is still in small quantities. Along the +bottoms, which have a covering of high grass, we observed the sunflower +blooming in great abundance. The Indians of the Missouri, more +especially those who do not cultivate maize, make great use of the seed +of this plant for bread, or in thickening their soup. They first parch +and then pound it between two stones, until it is reduced to a fine +meal. Sometimes they add a portion of water, and drink it thus diluted; +at other times they add a sufficient proportion of marrow-grease to +reduce it to the consistency of common dough, and eat it in that manner. +This last composition we preferred to all the rest, and thought it at +that time a very palatable dish." + +They also feasted on a great variety of wild berries, purple, yellow, +and black currants, which were delicious and more pleasant to the palate +than those grown in their Virginia home-gardens; also service-berries, +popularly known to later emigrants as "sarvice-berries." These grow on +small bushes, two or three feet high; and the fruit is purple-skinned, +with a white pulp, resembling a ripe gooseberry. + +The journal, next day, has the following entry:-- + +"This morning early, before our departure, we saw a large herd of the +big-horned animals, which were bounding among the rocks on the opposite +cliff with great agility. These inaccessible spots secure them from +all their enemies, and their only danger is in wandering among these +precipices, where we would suppose it scarcely possible for any animal +to stand; a single false step would precipitate them at least five +hundred feet into the water. + +"At one and one fourth miles we passed another single cliff on the left; +at the same distance beyond which is the mouth of a large river emptying +from the north. It is a handsome, bold, and clear stream, eighty yards +wide--that is, nearly as broad as the Missouri--with a rapid current, +over a bed of small smooth stones of various figures. The water is +extremely transparent; the low grounds are narrow, but possess as much +wood as those of the Missouri. The river has every appearance of being +navigable, though to what distance we cannot ascertain, as the country +which it waters is broken and mountainous. In honor of the Secretary of +War we called it Dearborn's River." + +General Henry Dearborn, who was then Secretary of War, in Jefferson's +administration, gave his name, a few years later, to a collection of +camps and log-cabins on Lake Michigan; and in due time Fort Dearborn +became the great city of Chicago. Continuing, the journal says: + +"Being now very anxious to meet with the Shoshonees or Snake Indians, +for the purpose of obtaining the necessary information of our route, +as well as to procure horses, it was thought best for one of us to go +forward with a small party and endeavor to discover them, before the +daily discharge of our guns, which is necessary for our subsistence, +should give them notice of our approach. If by an accident they hear us, +they will most probably retreat to the mountains, mistaking us for their +enemies, who usually attack them on this side." . . . . . . . . . + +Captain Clark was now in the lead with a small party, and he came upon +the remains of several Indian camps formed of willow-brush, Traces of +Indians became more plentiful. The journal adds:-- + +"At the same time Captain Clark observed that the pine trees had been +stripped of their bark about the same season, which our Indian woman +says her countrymen do in order to obtain the sap and the soft parts of +the wood and bark for food. About eleven o'clock he met a herd of +elk and killed two of them; but such was the want of wood in the +neighborhood that he was unable to procure enough to make a fire, and +was therefore obliged to substitute the dung of the buffalo, with which +he cooked his breakfast. They then resumed their course along an old +Indian road. In the afternoon they reached a handsome valley, watered by +a large creek, both of which extended a considerable distance into the +mountain. This they crossed, and during the evening travelled over a +mountainous country covered with sharp fragments of flint rock; these +bruised and cut their feet very much, but were scarcely less troublesome +than the prickly-pear of the open plains, which have now become so +abundant that it is impossible to avoid them, and the thorns are so +strong that they pierce a double sole of dressed deer-skin; the best +resource against them is a sole of buffalo-hide in parchment (that +is, hard dried). At night they reached the river much fatigued, having +passed two mountains in the course of the day, and travelled thirty +miles. Captain Clark's first employment, on lighting a fire, was to +extract from his feet the thorns, which he found seventeen in number." + +The dung of the buffalo, exposed for many years to the action of sun, +wind, and rain, became as dry and firm as the finest compressed hay. +As "buffalo chips," in these treeless regions, it was the overland +emigrants' sole dependence for fuel. + +The explorers now approached a wonderful pass in the Rocky Mountains +which their journal thus describes: + +"A mile and a half beyond this creek (Cottonwood Creek) the rocks +approach the river on both sides, forming a most sublime and +extraordinary spectacle. For five and three quarter miles these rocks +rise perpendicularly from the water's edge to the height of nearly +twelve hundred feet. They are composed of a black granite near their +base, but from the lighter color above, and from the fragments, we +suppose the upper part to be flint of a yellowish brown and cream color. + +"Nothing can be imagined more tremendous than the frowning darkness +of these rocks, which project over the river and menace us with +destruction. The river, one hundred and fifty yards in width, seems to +have forced its channel down this solid mass; but so reluctantly has it +given way, that during the whole distance the water is very deep even at +the edges, and for the first three miles there is not a spot, except +one of a few yards, in which a man could stand between the water and the +towering perpendicular of the mountain. The convulsion of the passage +must have been terrible, since at its outlet there are vast columns +of rock torn from the mountain, which are strewed on both sides of the +river, the trophies, as it were, of its victory. Several fine springs +burst out from the chasms of the rock, and contribute to increase the +river, which has a strong current, but, very fortunately, we were able +to overcome it with our oars, since it would have been impossible to use +either the cord or the pole. We were obliged to go on some time after +dark, not being able to find a spot large enough to encamp on; but at +length, about two miles above a small island in the middle of the river, +we met with a place on the left side, where we procured plenty of light +wood and pitch pine. This extraordinary range of rocks we called the +Gates of the Rocky Mountains." + +Some of Captain Clark's men, engaged in hunting, gave the alarm to +roving bands of Shoshonee Indians, hunting in that vicinity. The noise +of their guns attracted the attention of the Indians, who, having set +fire to the grass as a warning to their comrades, fled to the mountains. +The whole country soon appeared to have taken fright, and great clouds +of smoke were observed in all directions. Falling into an old Indian +trail, Captain Clark waited, with his weary and footsore men, for the +rest of the party to come up with them. + +The explorers had now passed south, between the Big Belt range of +mountains on the cast and the main chain of the Rocky Mountains on the +west. Meagher County, Montana, now lies on the cast of their trail, and +on the west side of that route is the county of Lewis and Clark. They +were now--still travelling southward--approaching the ultimate sources +of the great Missouri. The journal says:-- + +"We are delighted to find that the Indian woman recognizes the country; +she tells us that to this creek her countrymen make excursions to +procure white paint on its banks, and we therefore call it Whiteearth +Creek. She says also that the Three Forks of the Missouri are at no +great distance--a piece of intelligence which has cheered the spirits +of us all, as we hope soon to reach the head of that river. This is the +warmest day, except one, we have experienced this summer. In the shade +the mercury stood at eighty degrees, which is the second time it has +reached that height during this season. We camped on an island, after +making nineteen and three quarters miles. + +"In the course of the day we saw many geese, cranes, small birds common +to the plains, and a few pheasants. We also observed a small plover or +curlew of a brown color, about the size of a yellow-legged plover or +jack-curlew, but of a different species. It first appeared near the +mouth of Smith's River, but is so shy and vigilant that we were unable +to shoot it. Both the broad and narrow-leaved willow continue, +though the sweet willow has become very scarce. The rosebush, small +honeysuckle, pulpy-leaved thorn, southernwood, sage, box-elder, +narrow-leaved cottonwood, redwood, and a species of sumach, are all +abundant. So, too, are the red and black gooseberries, service-berry, +choke-cherry, and the black, yellow, red, and purple currants, which +last seems to be a favorite food of the bear. Before camping we landed +and took on board Captain Clark, with the meat he had collected during +this day's hunt, which consisted of one deer and an elk; we had, +ourselves, shot a deer and an antelope." + +The party found quantities of wild onions of good flavor and size. They +also observed wild flax, garlic, and other vegetable products of value. +The journal adds:-- + +"We saw many otter and beaver to-day (July 24th). The latter seem to +contribute very much to the number of islands, and the widening of the +river. They begin by damming up the small channels of about twenty yards +between the islands: this obliges the river to seek another outlet, and, +as soon as this is effected, the channel stopped by the beaver becomes +filled with mud and sand. The industrious animal is then driven to +another channel, which soon shares the same fate, till the river spreads +on all sides, and cuts the projecting points of the land into islands. +We killed a deer, and saw great numbers of antelopes, cranes, some +geese, and a few red-headed ducks. The small birds of the plains and +the curlew are still abundant: we saw a large bear, but could not come +within gunshot of him. There are numerous tracks of the elk, but none +of the animals themselves; and, from the appearance of bones and old +excrement, we suppose that buffalo sometimes stray into the valley, +though we have as yet seen no recent sign of them. Along the water are +a number of snakes, some of a uniform brown color, others black, and +a third speckled on the abdomen, and striped with black and a brownish +yellow on the back and sides. The first, which is the largest, is about +four feet long; the second is of the kind mentioned yesterday; and the +third resembles in size and appearance the garter-snake of the United +States. On examining the teeth of all these several kinds, we found them +free from poison: they are fond of the water, in which they take shelter +on being pursued. The mosquitoes, gnats, and prickly pear, our three +persecutors, still continue with us, and, joined with the labor of +working the canoes, have fatigued us all excessively." + +On Thursday, July 25, Captain Clark, who was in the lead, as usual, +arrived at the famous Three Forks of the Missouri. The stream flowing in +a generally northeastern direction was the true, or principal Missouri, +and was named the Jefferson. The middle branch was named the Madison, +in honor of James Madison, then Secretary of State, and the fork next to +the eastward received the name of Albert Gallatin, then Secretary of +the Treasury; and by these titles the streams are known to this day. The +explorers had now passed down to their furthest southern limit, their +trail being to the eastward of the modern cities of Helena and Butte, +and separated only by a narrow divide (then unknown to them) from the +sources of some of the streams that fall into the Pacific Ocean. Under +the date of July 27, the journal says:-- + +"We are now very anxious to see the Snake Indians. After advancing for +several hundred miles into this wild and mountainous country, we may +soon expect that the game will abandon us. With no information of the +route, we may be unable to find a passage across the mountains when we +reach the head of the river--at least, such a pass as will lead us +to the Columbia. Even are we so fortunate as to find a branch of that +river, the timber which we have hitherto seen in these mountains does +not promise us any fit to make canoes, so that our chief dependence is +on meeting some tribe from whom we may procure horses. Our consolation +is that this southwest branch can scarcely head with any other river +than the Columbia; and that if any nation of Indians can live in the +mountains we are able to endure as much as they can, and have even +better means of procuring subsistence." + + + + +Chapter XII -- At the Sources of the Missouri + +The explorers were now (in the last days of July, 1805) at the head of +the principal sources of the great Missouri River, in the fastnesses +of the Rocky Mountains, at the base of the narrow divide that separates +Idaho from Montana in its southern corner. Just across this divide are +the springs that feed streams falling into the majestic Columbia and +then to the Pacific Ocean. As has been already set forth, they named the +Three Forks for President Jefferson and members of his cabinet. These +names still survive, although Jefferson River is the true Missouri +and not a fork of that stream. Upon the forks of the Jefferson Lewis +bestowed the titles of Philosophy, Wisdom, and Philanthropy, each of +these gifts and graces being, in his opinion, "an attribute of that +illustrious personage, Thomas Jefferson," then President of the United +States. But alas for the fleeting greatness of geographical honor! +Philosophy River is now known as Willow Creek, and at its mouth, a busy +little railroad town, is Willow City. The northwest fork is no longer +Wisdom, but Big Hole River; deep valleys among the mountains are known +as holes; and the stream called by that name, once Wisdom, is followed +along its crooked course by a railroad that connects Dillon, Silver Bow, +and Butte City, Montana. Vulgarity does its worst for Philanthropy; its +modern name on the map is Stinking Water. + +On the thirtieth of July, the party, having camped long enough to unpack +and dry their goods, dress their deerskins and make them into leggings +and moccasins, reloaded their canoes and began the toilsome ascent of +the Jefferson. The journal makes this record:-- + +"Sacajawea, our Indian woman, informs us that we are encamped on the +precise spot where her countrymen, the Snake Indians, had their huts +five years ago, when the Minnetarees of Knife River first came in +sight of them, and from whom they hastily retreated three miles up +the Jefferson, and concealed themselves in the woods. The Minnetarees, +however, pursued and attacked them, killed four men, as many women, +and a number of boys; and made prisoners of four other boys and all +the females, of whom Sacajawea was one. She does not, however, show any +distress at these recollections, nor any joy at the prospect of being +restored to her country; for she seems to possess the folly, or the +philosophy, of not suffering her feelings to extend beyond the anxiety +of having plenty to eat and a few trinkets to wear. + +"This morning the hunters brought in some fat deer of the long-tailed +red kind, which are quite as large as those of the United States, +and are, indeed, the only kind we have found at this place. There are +numbers of the sand-hill cranes feeding in the meadows: we caught a +young one of the same color as the red deer, which, though it had nearly +attained its full growth, could not fly; it is very fierce, and strikes +a severe blow with its beak. . . . + +"Captain Lewis proceeded after dinner through an extensive low ground of +timber and meadow-land intermixed; but the bayous were so obstructed by +beaver-dams that, in order to avoid them, he directed his course toward +the high plain on the right. This he gained with some difficulty, +after wading up to his waist through the mud and water of a number +of beaver-dams. When he desired to rejoin the canoes he found the +underbrush so thick, and the river so crooked, that this, joined to the +difficulty of passing the beaver-dams, induced him to go on and endeavor +to intercept the river at some point where it might be more collected +into one channel, and approach nearer the high plain. He arrived at the +bank about sunset, having gone only six miles in a direct course from +the canoes; but he saw no traces of the men, nor did he receive any +answer to his shouts and the firing of his gun. It was now nearly dark; +a duck lighted near him, and he shot it. He then went on the head of a +small island, where he found some driftwood, which enabled him to cook +his duck for supper, and laid down to sleep on some willow-brush. The +night was cool, but the driftwood gave him a good fire, and he suffered +no inconvenience, except from the mosquitoes." + +The easy indifference to discomfort with which these well-seasoned +pioneers took their hardships must needs impress the reader. It was a +common thing for men, or for a solitary man, to be caught out of camp +by nightfall and compelled to bivouac, like Captain Lewis, in the +underbrush, or the prairie-grass. As they pressed on, game began to fail +them. Under date of July 31, they remark that the only game seen that +day was one bighorn, a few antelopes, deer, and a brown bear, all of +which escaped them. "Nothing was killed to-day," it is recorded, "nor +have we had any fresh meat except one beaver for the last two days; so +that we are now reduced to an unusual situation, for we have hitherto +always had a great abundance of flesh." Indeed, one reason for this is +found in Captain Lewis's remark: "When we have plenty of fresh meat, I +find it impossible to make the men take any care of it, or use it with +the least frugality, though I expect that necessity will shortly teach +them this art." We shall see, later on, that the men, who were really as +improvident of food as the Indians, had hard lessons from necessity. + +Anxious to reach the Indians, who were believed to be somewhere ahead +of them, Captain Lewis and three men went on up the Jefferson, Captain +Clark and his party following with the canoes and luggage in a more +leisurely manner. The advance party were so fortunate as to overtake a +herd of elk, two of which they killed; what they did not eat they left +secured for the other party with the canoes. Clark's men also had good +luck in hunting, for they killed five deer and one bighorn. Neither +party found fresh tracks of Indians, and they were greatly discouraged +thereat. The journal speaks of a beautiful valley, from six to eight +miles wide, where they saw ancient traces of buffalo occupation, but no +buffalo. These animals had now completely disappeared; they were seldom +seen in those mountains. The journal says of Lewis:-- + +"He saw an abundance of deer and antelope, and many tracks of elk and +bear. Having killed two deer, they feasted sumptuously, with a dessert +of currants of different colors--two species red, others yellow, deep +purple, and black; to these were added black gooseberries and deep +purple service-berries, somewhat larger than ours, from which they +differ also in color, size, and the superior excellence of their +flavor. In the low grounds of the river were many beaver-dams formed of +willow-brush, mud, and gravel, so closely interwoven that they resist +the water perfectly; some of them were five feet high, and caused the +river to overflow several acres of land." + +Meanwhile, the party with the canoes were having a fatiguing time as +they toiled up the river. On the fourth of August, after they had made +only fifteen miles, the journal has this entry:-- + +"The river is still rapid, and the water, though clear, is very much +obstructed by shoals or ripples at every two hundred or three hundred +yards. At all these places we are obliged to drag the canoes over the +stones, as there is not a sufficient depth of water to float them, and +in the other parts the current obliges us to have recourse to the cord. +But as the brushwood on the banks will not permit us to walk on shore, +we are under the necessity of wading through the river as we drag the +boats. This soon makes our feet tender, and sometimes occasions severe +falls over the slippery stones; and the men, by being constantly wet, +are becoming more feeble. In the course of the day the hunters killed +two deer, some geese and ducks, and the party saw some antelopes, +cranes, beaver, and otter." + +Captain Lewis had left a note for Captain Clark at the forks of the +Jefferson and Wisdom rivers. Clark's journal says:-- + +"We arrived at the forks about four o'clock, but, unluckily, Captain +Lewis's note had been attached to a green pole, which the beaver had cut +down, and carried off with the note on it: an accident which deprived us +of all information as to the character of the two branches of the river. +Observing, therefore, that the northwest fork was most in our direction, +we ascended it. We found it extremely rapid, and its waters were +scattered in such a manner that for a quarter of a mile we were forced +to cut a passage through the willow-brush that leaned over the little +channels and united at the top. After going up it for a mile, we +encamped on an island which had been overflowed, and was still so wet +that we were compelled to make beds of brush to keep ourselves out of +the mud. Our provision consisted of two deer which had been killed in +the morning." + +It should be borne in mind that this river, up which the party were +making their way, was the Wisdom (now Big Hole), and was the northwest +fork of the Jefferson, flowing from southeast to northwest; and near the +point where it enters the Jefferson, it has a loop toward the northeast; +that is to say, it comes from the southwest to a person looking up its +mouth. + + +After going up the Wisdom River, Clark's party were overtaken by +Drewyer, Lewis's hunter, who had been sent across between the forks to +notify Clark that Lewis regarded the other fork--the main Jefferson--as +the right course to take. The party, accordingly, turned about and began +to descend the stream, in order to ascend the Jefferson. The journal +says:-- + +"On going down, one of the canoes upset and two others filled with +water, by which all the baggage was wet and several articles were +irrecoverably lost. As one of them swung round in a rapid current, +Whitehouse was thrown out of her; while down, the canoe passed over him, +and had the water been two inches shallower would have crushed him to +pieces; but he escaped with a severe bruise of his leg. In order to +repair these misfortunes we hastened (down) to the forks, where we were +joined by Captain Lewis. We then passed over to the left (east) side, +opposite the entrance of the rapid fork, and camped on a large gravelly +bar, near which there was plenty of wood. Here we opened, and exposed +to dry, all the articles which had suffered from the water; none of them +were completely spoiled except a small keg of powder; the rest of the +powder, which was distributed in the different canoes, was quite safe, +although it had been under the water for upward of an hour. The air is +indeed so pure and dry that any wood-work immediately shrinks, unless +it is kept filled with water; but we had placed our powder in small +canisters of lead, each containing powder enough for the canister when +melted into bullets, and secured with cork and wax, which answered our +purpose perfectly. . . ." + +"In the evening we killed three deer and four elk, which furnished us +once more with a plentiful supply of meat. Shannon, the same man who had +been lost for fifteen days (August 28 to Sept. 11, 1804), was sent +out this morning to hunt, up the northwest fork. When we decided on +returning, Drewyer was directed to go in quest of him, but he returned +with information that he had gone several miles up the (Wisdom) river +without being able to find Shannon. We now had the trumpet sounded, +and fired several guns; but he did not return, and we fear he is again +lost." + +This man, although an expert hunter, had an unlucky habit of losing +himself in the wilderness, as many another good man has lost himself +among the mountains or the great plains. This time, however, he came +into camp again, after being lost three days. + +On the eighth of August the party reached a point now known by its +famous landmark, Beaver Head, a remarkable rocky formation which gives +its name to Beaverhead County, Montana. The Indian woman, Sacajawea, +recognized the so-called beaver-head, which, she said, was not far from +the summer retreat of her countrymen, living on the other side of the +mountains. The whole party were now together again, the men with the +canoes having come up; and the journal says:-- + +"Persuaded of the absolute necessity of procuring horses to cross +the mountains, it was determined that one of us should proceed in the +morning to the head of the river, and penetrate the mountains till +he found the Shoshonees or some other nation who can assist us in +transporting our baggage, the greater part of which we shall be +compelled to leave without the aid of horses.". . . + +Early the next day Captain Lewis took Drewyer, Shields, and M'Neal, and, +slinging their knapsacks, they set out with a resolution to meet some +nation of Indians before they returned, however long they might be +separated from the party. + +The party in the canoes continued to ascend the river, which was so +crooked that they advanced but four miles in a direct line from their +starting-place in a distance of eleven miles. In this manner, the party +on foot leading those with the canoes, they repeatedly explored the +various forks of the streams, which baffled them by their turnings and +windings. Lewis was in the advance, and Clark brought up the rear with +the main body. It was found necessary for the leading party to wade the +streams, and occasionally they were compelled by the roughness of +the way to leave the water-course and take to the hills, where great +vigilance was required to keep them in sight of the general direction in +which they must travel. On the 11th of August, 1805, Captain Lewis came +in sight of the first Indian encountered since leaving the country of +the Minnetarees, far back on the Missouri. The journal of that date +says: + +"On examining him with the glass Captain Lewis saw that he was of a +different nation from any Indians we had hitherto met. He was armed with +a bow and a quiver of arrows, and mounted on an elegant horse without a +saddle; a small string attached to the under jaw answered as a bridle. + +"Convinced that he was a Shoshonee, and knowing how much our success +depended on the friendly offices of that nation, Captain Lewis was full +of anxiety to approach without alarming him, and endeavor to convince +him that he (Lewis) was a white man. He therefore proceeded toward the +Indian at his usual pace. When they were within a mile of each other the +Indian suddenly stopped. Captain Lewis immediately followed his example, +took his blanket from his knapsack, and, holding it with both hands at +the two corners, threw it above his head, and unfolded it as he brought +it to the ground, as if in the act of spreading it. This signal, which +originates in the practice of spreading a robe or skin as a seat for +guests to whom they wish to show a distinguished kindness, is the +universal sign of friendship among the Indians on the Missouri and the +Rocky Mountains. As usual, Captain Lewis repeated this signal three +times: still the Indian kept his position, and looked with an air of +suspicion on Drewyer and Shields, who were now advancing on each side. +Captain Lewis was afraid to make any signal for them to halt, lest he +should increase the distrust of the Indian, who began to be uneasy, and +they were too distant to hear his voice. He therefore took from his pack +some beads, a looking-glass, and a few trinkets, which he had brought +for the purpose, and, leaving his gun, advanced unarmed towards the +Indian. He remained in the same position till Captain Lewis came within +two hundred yards of him, when he turned his horse and began to move off +slowly. Captain Lewis then called out to him in as loud a voice as he +could, repeating the words tabba bone, which in the Shoshonee language +mean white man. But, looking over his shoulder, the Indian kept his eyes +on Drewyer and Shields, who were still advancing, without recollecting +the impropriety of doing so at such a moment, till Captain Lewis made a +signal to them to halt: this Drewyer obeyed, but Shields did not observe +it, and still went forward. Seeing Drewyer halt, the Indian turned his +horse about as if to wait for Captain Lewis, who now reached within one +hundred and fifty paces, repeating the words tabba bone, and holding up +the trinkets in his hand, at the same time stripping up the sleeve of +his shirt to show the color of his skin. The Indian suffered him to +advance within one hundred paces, then suddenly turned his horse, and, +giving him the whip, leaped across the creek, and disappeared in an +instant among the willow bushes: with him vanished all the hopes +which the sight of him had inspired, of a friendly introduction to his +countrymen." + +Sadly disappointed by the clumsy imprudence of his men, Captain Lewis +now endeavored to follow the track of the retreating Indian, hoping that +this might lead them to an encampment, or village, of the Shoshonees. He +also built a fire, the smoke of which might attract the attention of +the Indians. At the same time, he placed on a pole near the fire a +small assortment of beads, trinkets, awls, and paints, in order that the +Indians, if they returned that way, might discover them and be thereby +assured the strangers were white men and friends. Next morning, while +trying to follow the trail of the lone Indian, they found traces of +freshly turned earth where people had been digging for roots; and, later +on, they came upon the fresh track of eight or ten horses. But these +were soon scattered, and the explorers only found that the general +direction of the trails was up into the mountains which define the +boundary between Montana and Idaho. Skirting the base of these mountains +(the Bitter Root), the party endeavored to find a plain trail, or Indian +road, leading up to a practicable pass. Travelling in a southwesterly +direction along the main stream, they entered a valley which led into +the mountains. Here they ate their last bit of fresh meat, the remainder +of a deer they had killed a day or two before; they reserved for their +final resort, in case of famine, a small piece of salt pork. The journal +says:-- + +"They then continued through the low bottom, along the main stream, near +the foot of the mountains on their right. For the first five miles, the +valley continues toward the southwest, being from two to three miles in +width; then the main stream, which had received two small branches from +the left in the valley, turned abruptly to the west through a narrow +bottom between the mountains. The road was still plain, and, as it +led them directly on toward the mountain, the stream gradually became +smaller, till, after going two miles, it had so greatly diminished in +width that one of the men, in a fit of enthusiasm, with one foot on +each side of the river, thanked God that he had lived to bestride the +Missouri. As they went along their hopes of soon seeing the Columbia +(that is, the Pacific watershed) arose almost to painful anxiety, when +after four miles from the last abrupt turn of the river (which turn +had been to the west), they reached a small gap formed by the high +mountains, which recede on each side, leaving room for the Indian road. +From the foot of one of the lowest of these mountains, which rises with +a gentle ascent of about half a mile, issues the remotest water of the +Missouri. + +"They had now reached the hidden sources of that river, which had never +yet been seen by civilized man. As they quenched their thirst at the +chaste and icy fountain--as they sat down by the brink of that little +rivulet, which yielded its distant and modest tribute to the parent +ocean--they felt themselves rewarded for all their labors and all their +difficulties. + +"They left reluctantly this interesting spot, and, pursuing the Indian +road through the interval of the hills, arrived at the top of a ridge, +from which they saw high mountains, partially covered with snow, still +to the west of them. + +"The ridge on which they stood formed the dividing line between the +waters of the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. They followed a descent +much steeper than that on the eastern side, and at the distance of +three-quarters of a mile reached a handsome, bold creek of cold, clear +water running to the westward. They stopped to taste, for the first +time, the waters of the Columbia; and, after a few minutes, followed the +road across steep hills and low hollows, when they came to a spring on +the side of a mountain. Here they found a sufficient quantity of dry +willow-brush for fuel, and therefore halted for the night; and, having +killed nothing in the course of the day, supped on their last piece of +pork, and trusted to fortune for some other food to mix with a little +flour and parched meal, which was all that now remained of their +provisions." + + + + +Chapter XIII -- From the Minnetarees to the Shoshonees + +Travelling in a westerly direction, with a very gradual descent, Captain +Lewis, on the thirteenth of August, came upon two Indian women, a man, +and some dogs. The Indians sat down when the strangers first came in +sight, as if to wait for their coming; but, soon taking alarm, they +all fled, much to the chagrin of the white men. Now striking into a +well-worn Indian road, they found themselves surely near a village. The +journal says:-- + +"They had not gone along the road more than a mile, when on a sudden +they saw three female Indians, from whom they had been concealed by +the deep ravines which intersected the road, till they were now within +thirty paces of each other. One of them, a young woman, immediately took +to flight; the other two, an elderly woman and a little girl, seeing +they were too near for them to escape, sat on the ground, and holding +down their heads seemed as if reconciled to the death which they +supposed awaited them. The same habit of holding down the head and +inviting the enemy to strike, when all chance of escape is gone, is +preserved in Egypt to this day. + +"Captain Lewis instantly put down his rifle, and advancing toward them, +took the woman by the hand, raised her up, and repeated the words 'tabba +bone!' at the same time stripping up his shirt-sleeve to prove that he +was a white man--for his hands and face had become by constant exposure +quite as dark as their own. She appeared immediately relieved from her +alarm; and Drewyer and Shields now coming up, Captain Lewis gave them +some beads, a few awls, pewter mirrors, and a little paint, and told +Drewyer to request the woman to recall her companion, who had escaped to +some distance and, by alarming the Indians, might cause them to attack +him without any time for explanation. She did as she was desired, and +the young woman returned almost out of breath. Captain Lewis gave her an +equal portion of trinkets, and painted the tawny checks of all three +of them with vermilion,--a ceremony which among the Shoshonees is +emblematic of peace. + +"After they had become composed, he informed them by signs of his wishes +to go to their camp, in order to see their chiefs and warriors; they +readily obeyed, and conducted the party along the same road down the +river. In this way they marched two miles, when they met a troop of +nearly sixty warriors, mounted on excellent horses, riding at full speed +toward them. As they advanced Captain Lewis put down his gun, and went +with the flag about fifty paces in advance. The chief, who with two +men was riding in front of the main body, spoke to the women, who +now explained that the party was composed of white men, and showed +exultingly the presents they had received. The three men immediately +leaped from their horses, came up to Captain Lewis, and embraced him +with great cordiality, putting their left arm over his right shoulder, +and clasping his back, applying at the same time their left cheek to +his, and frequently vociferating ah hi e! ah hi e! 'I am much pleased, I +am much rejoiced.' The whole body of warriors now came forward, and our +men received the caresses, and no small share of the grease and paint, +of their new friends. After this fraternal embrace, of which the motive +was much more agreeable than the manner, Captain Lewis lighted a pipe, +and offered it to the Indians, who had now seated themselves in a +circle around the party. But, before they would receive this mark of +friendship, they pulled off their moccasins: a custom, as we afterward +learned, which indicates the sacred sincerity of their professions +when they smoke with a stranger, and which imprecates on themselves +the misery of going barefoot forever if they prove faithless to their +words--a penalty by no means light for those who rove over the thorny +plains of this country. . . . + +"After smoking a few pipes, some trifling presents were distributed +among them, with which they seemed very much pleased, particularly with +the blue beads and the vermilion. Captain Lewis then stated to the chief +that the object of his visit was friendly, and should be explained as +soon as he reached their camp; and that, as the sun was oppressive, and +no water near, he wished to go there as soon as possible. They now put +on their moccasins, and their chief, whose name was Cameahwait, made +a short speech to the warriors. Captain Lewis then gave him the flag, +which he informed him was among white men the emblem of peace; and, now +that he had received it, was to be in future the bond of union between +them. The chief then moved on; our party followed him; and the rest of +the warriors, in a squadron, brought up the rear." + +Arriving at the village, the ceremony of smoking the pipe of peace +was solemnly observed; and the women and children of the tribe were +permitted to gaze with wonder on the first white men they had ever seen. +The Indians were not much better provided with food than were their +half-famished visitors. But some cakes made of service-berries and +choke-berries dried in the sun were presented to the white men "on +which," says Captain Lewis, "we made a hearty meal." Later in the day, +however, an Indian invited Captain Lewis into his wigwam and treated +him to a small morsel of boiled antelope and a piece of fresh salmon +roasted. This was the first salmon he had seen, and the captain was now +assured that he was on the headwaters of the Columbia. This stream was +what is now known as the Lemhi River. The water was clear and limpid, +flowing down a bed of gravel; its general direction was a little north +of west. The journal says:-- + +"The chief informed him that this stream discharged, at the distance +of half a day's march, into another (Salmon River) of twice its size, +coming from the southwest; but added, on further inquiry, that there +was scarcely more timber below the junction of those rivers than in +this neighborhood, and that the river was rocky, rapid, and so closely +confined between high mountains that it was impossible to pass down it +either by land or water to the great lake (Pacific Ocean), where, as he +had understood, the white men lived. + +"This information was far from being satisfactory, for there was no +timber here that would answer the purpose of building canoes,--indeed +not more than just sufficient for fuel; and even that consisted of +the narrow-leaved cottonwood, the red and the narrow-leaved willow, +chokecherry, service-berry, and a few currant bushes, such as are common +on the Missouri. The prospect of going on by land is more pleasant, for +there are great numbers of horses feeding in every direction round the +camp, which will enable us to transport our stores, if necessary, over +the mountains." + +While Captain Lewis was thus engaged, his companions in the canoes were +slowly and laboriously ascending the river on the other side of the +divide. The character of the stream was much as it had been for several +days, and the men were in the water three-fourths of the time, dragging +the boats over the shoals. They had but little success in killing game, +but caught, as they had done for some days before, numbers of fine +trout. + +"August 14. In order to give time for the boats to reach the forks of +Jefferson River," proceeds the narrative, "Captain Lewis determined to +remain where he was, and obtain all the information he could collect +in regard to the country. Having nothing to eat but a little flour and +parched meal, with the berries of the Indians, he sent out Drewyer and +Shields, who borrowed horses from the natives, to hunt for a few hours. +About the same time the young warriors set out for the same purpose. +There are but few elk or black tailed deer in this neighborhood; and as +the common red deer secrete themselves in the bushes when alarmed, they +are soon safe from the arrows, which are but feeble weapons against any +animals which the huntsmen cannot previously run down with their horses. +The chief game of the Shoshonees, therefore, is the antelope, which, +when pursued, retreats to the open plains, where the horses have full +room for the chase. But such is its extraordinary fleetness and wind, +that a single horse has no possible chance of outrunning it or tiring it +down, and the hunters are therefore obliged to resort to stratagem. + +"About twenty Indians, mounted on fine horses, and armed with bows +and arrows, left the camp. In a short time they descried a herd of ten +antelope: they immediately separated into little squads of two or three, +and formed a scattered circle round the herd for five or six miles, +keeping at a wary distance, so as not to alarm them till they were +perfectly enclosed, and selecting, as far as possible, some commanding +eminence as a stand. Having gained their positions, a small party rode +towards the animals, and with wonderful dexterity the huntsmen preserved +their seats, and the horses their footing, as they ran at full speed +over the hills, down the steep ravines, and along the borders of the +precipices. They were soon outstripped by the antelopes, which, on +gaining the other extremity of the circle, were driven back and pursued +by the fresh hunters. They turned and flew, rather than ran, in another +direction; but there, too, they found new enemies. In this way they +were alternately pursued backward and forward, till at length, +notwithstanding the skill of the hunters, they all escaped and the +party, after running for two hours, returned without having caught +anything, and their horses foaming with sweat. This chase, the greater +part of which was seen from the camp, formed a beautiful scene; but to +the hunters it is exceedingly laborious, and so unproductive, even when +they are able to worry the animal down and shoot him, that forty or +fifty hunters will sometimes be engaged for half a day without obtaining +more than two or three antelope. + +"Soon after they returned, our two huntsmen came in with no better +success. Captain Lewis therefore made a little paste with the flour, and +the addition of some berries formed a very palatable repast. Having now +secured the good will of Cameahwait, Captain Lewis informed him of his +wish that he would speak to the warriors, and endeavor to engage them +to accompany him to the forks of Jefferson River; where by this time +another chief (Clark), with a large party of white men, was awaiting his +(Lewis') return; that it would be necessary to take about thirty horses +to transport the merchandise; that they should be well rewarded for +their trouble; and that, when all the party should have reached the +Shoshonee camp, they would remain some time among them to trade for +horses, as well as concert plans for furnishing them in future with +regular supplies of merchandise. He readily consented to do so, and +after collecting the tribe together, he made a long harangue. In about +an hour and a half he returned, and told Captain Lewis that they would +be ready to accompany him in the morning." + +But the Indians were suspicious and reluctant to take the word of the +white man. Captain Lewis, almost at his wits' end, appealed to their +courage. He said that if they were afraid of being led into a trap, he +was sure that some among them were not afraid. + +"To doubt the courage of an Indian is to touch the tenderest string of +his mind, and the surest way to rouse him to any dangerous achievement. +Cameahwait instantly replied that he was not afraid to die, and mounting +his horse, for the third time harangued the warriors. He told them that +he was resolved to go if he went alone, or if he were sure of perishing; +that he hoped there were among those who heard him some who were not +afraid to die, and who would prove it by mounting their horses and +following him. This harangue produced an effect on six or eight only +of the warriors, who now joined their chief. With these Captain Lewis +smoked a pipe; and then, fearful of some change in their capricious +temper, set out immediately." + +The party now retraced the steps so lately taken by Captain Lewis and +his men. On the second day out, one of the spies sent forward by the +Indians came madly galloping back, much to the alarm of the white men. +It proved, however, that the spy had returned to tell his comrades that +one of the white hunters (Drewyer) had killed a deer. An Indian riding +behind Captain Lewis, fearful that he should not get his share of +the spoil, jumped off the horse and ran for a mile at full speed. The +journal says:-- + +"Captain Lewis slackened his pace, and followed at a sufficient distance +to observe them. When they reached the place where Drewyer had thrown +out the intestines, they all dismounted in confusion and ran tumbling +over each other like famished dogs. Each tore away whatever part he +could, and instantly began to eat it. Some had the liver, some the +kidneys--in short, no part on which we are accustomed to look with +disgust escaped them. One of them, who had seized about nine feet of the +entrails, was chewing at one end, while with his hand he was diligently +clearing his way by discharging the contents at the other. It was indeed +impossible to see these wretches ravenously feeding on the filth of +animals, the blood streaming from their mouths, without deploring how +nearly the condition of savages approaches that of the brute creation. +Yet, though suffering with hunger, they did not attempt, as they might +have done, to take by force the whole deer, but contented themselves +with what had been thrown away by the hunter. Captain Lewis now had the +deer skinned, and after reserving a quarter of it gave the rest of the +animal to the chief, to be divided among the Indians, who immediately +devoured nearly the whole of it without cooking. They now went toward +the (Prairie) creek, where there was some brushwood to make a fire, and +found Drewyer, who had killed a second deer. The same struggle for the +entrails was renewed here, and on giving nearly the whole deer to the +Indians, they devoured it even to the soft part of the hoofs. A fire +being made, Captain Lewis had his breakfast, during which Drewyer +brought in a third deer. This too, after reserving one-quarter, was +given to the Indians, who now seemed completely satisfied and in good +humor." + +They now approached the forks of the Jefferson, where they had expected +to meet Clark and his party with the canoes. Not seeing any signs of +them, the Lewis party were placed in a critical position. The Indians +were again alarmed and suspicious. Here Captain Clark's journal says:-- + +"As they went on towards the point, Captain Lewis, perceiving how +critical his situation had become, resolved to attempt a stratagem, +which his present difficulty seemed completely to justify. Recollecting +the notes he had left at the point for us, he sent Drewyer for them with +an Indian, who witnessed his taking them from the pole. When they were +brought, Captain Lewis told Cameahwait that, on leaving his brother +chief at the place where the river issues from the mountains, it was +agreed that the boats should not be brought higher than the next forks +we should meet; but that, if the rapid water prevented the boats from +coming on as fast as they expected, his brother chief was to send a note +to the first forks above him, to let him know where they were: that this +note had been left this morning at the forks, and mentioned that +the canoes were just below the mountains, and coming up slowly in +consequence of the current. Captain Lewis added that he would stay at +the forks for his brother chief, but would send a man down the river; +and that if Cameahwait doubted what he said, one of their young men +could go with him, while he and the other two remained at the forks. +This story satisfied the chief and the greater part of the Indians; but +a few did not conceal their suspicions, observing that we told different +stories, and complaining that their chief exposed them to danger by +a mistaken confidence. Captain Lewis now wrote, by the light of some +willow-brush, a note to Captain Clark, which he gave to Drewyer, with +an order to use all possible expedition in descending the river, and +engaged an Indian to accompany him by the promise of a knife and some +beads. + +"At bedtime the chief and five others slept round the fire of +Captain Lewis, and the rest hid themselves in different parts of the +willow-brush to avoid the enemy, who, they feared, would attack them in +the night. Captain Lewis endeavored to assume a cheerfulness he did not +feel, to prevent the despondency of the savages. After conversing gayly +with them he retired to his mosquito-bier, by the side of which the +chief now placed himself. He lay down, yet slept but little, being +in fact scarcely less uneasy than his Indian companions. He was +apprehensive that, finding the ascent of the river impracticable, +Captain Clark might have stopped below Rattlesnake bluff, and the +messenger would not meet him. The consequence of disappointing the +Indians at this moment would most probably be that they would retire +and secrete themselves in the mountains, so as to prevent our having +an opportunity of recovering their confidence. They would also spread +a panic through all the neighboring Indians, and cut us off from the +supply of horses so useful and almost so essential to our success. +He was at the same time consoled by remembering that his hopes of +assistance rested on better foundations than their generosity--their +avarice and their curiosity. He had promised liberal exchanges for their +horses; but what was still more seductive, he had told them that one of +their countrywomen, who had been taken with the Minnetarees, accompanied +the party below; and one of the men had spread the report of our having +with us a man (York) perfectly black, whose hair was short and curled. +This last account had excited a great degree of curiosity, and they +seemed more desirous of seeing this monster than of obtaining the most +favorable barter for their horses." + +On the following day, August 17, the two parties of explorers finally +met. Under that date the journal has this interesting entry:-- + +"Captain Lewis rose very early and despatched Drewyer and the Indian +down the river in quest of the boats. Shields was sent out at the same +time to hunt, while M'Neal prepared a breakfast out of the remainder of +the meat. Drewyer had been gone about two hours, and the Indians were +all anxiously waiting for some news, when an Indian, who had straggled +a short distance down the river, returned with a report that he had seen +the white men, who were only a short distance below, and were coming on. +The Indians were transported with joy, and the chief, in the warmth of +his satisfaction, renewed his embrace to Captain Lewis, who was quite +as much delighted as the Indians themselves. The report proved most +agreeably true. + +"On setting out at seven o'clock, Captain Clark, with Chaboneau and his +wife, walked on shore; but they had not gone more than a mile before +Captain Clark saw Sacajawea, who was with her husband one hundred yards +ahead, begin to dance and show every mark of the most extravagant joy, +turning round to him and pointing to several Indians, whom he now +saw advancing on horseback, sucking her fingers at the same time, to +indicate that they were of her native tribe. As they advanced, Captain +Clark discovered among them Drewyer dressed like an Indian, from whom he +learned the situation of the party. While the boats were performing the +circuit, he went toward the forks with the Indians, who, as they went +along, sang aloud with the greatest appearance of delight. + +"We soon drew near the camp, and just as we approached it a woman made +her way through the crowd toward Sacajawea; recognizing each other, they +embraced with the most tender affection. The meeting of these two young +women had in it something peculiarly touching, not only from the ardent +manner in which their feelings were expressed, but also from the real +interest of their situation. They had been companions in childhood; in +the war with the Minnetarees they had both been taken prisoners in the +same battle; they had shared and softened the rigors of their captivity +till one of them had escaped from their enemies with scarce a hope of +ever seeing her friend rescued from their hands. + +"While Sacajawea was renewing among the women the friendships of former +days, Captain Clark went on, and was received by Captain Lewis and +the chief, who, after the first embraces and salutations were over, +conducted him to a sort of circular tent or shade of willows. Here he +was seated on a white robe; and the chief immediately tied in his hair +six small shells resembling pearls, an ornament highly valued by these +people, who procure them in the course of trade from the seacoast. +The moccasins of the whole party were then taken off, and, after much +ceremony, the smoking began. After this the conference was to be opened; +and, glad of an opportunity of being able to converse more intelligibly, +Sacajawea was sent for: she came into the tent, sat down, and was +beginning to interpret, when in the person of Cameahwait she recognized +her brother. She instantly jumped up, and ran and embraced him, throwing +over him her blanket, and weeping profusely: the chief was himself +moved, though not in the same degree. After some conversation between +them she resumed her seat, and attempted to interpret for us; but +her new situation seemed to overpower her, and she was frequently +interrupted by her tears. After the council was finished, the +unfortunate woman learned that all her family were dead except two +brothers, one of whom was absent, and a son of her eldest sister, a +small boy, who was immediately adopted by her." + +The two parties, Indian and white, now went into a conference, the white +chiefs explaining that it would be needful for their Indian friends +to collect all their horses and help to transport the goods of the +explorers over the Great Divide. The journal says:-- + +"The speech made a favorable impression. The chief, in reply, thanked +us for our expressions of friendship toward himself and his nation, and +declared their willingness to render us every service. He lamented that +it would be so long before they should be supplied with firearms, +but that till then they could subsist as they had heretofore done. He +concluded by saying that there were not horses enough here to transport +our goods, but that he would return to the village to-morrow, bring all +his own horses, and encourage his people to come over with theirs. +The conference being ended to our satisfaction, we now inquired of +Cameahwait what chiefs were among the party, and he pointed out two of +them. We then distributed our presents: to Cameahwait we gave a medal of +small size, with the likeness of President Jefferson, and on the reverse +a figure of hands clasped with a pipe and tomahawk; to this was added an +uniform coat, a shirt, a pair of scarlet leggings, a carrot (or twist) +of tobacco, and some small articles. Each of the other chiefs received a +small medal struck during the presidency of General Washington, a shirt, +handkerchief, leggings, knife, and some tobacco. Medals of the same sort +were also presented to two young warriors, who, though not chiefs, were +promising youths and very much respected in the tribe. These honorary +gifts were followed by presents of paint, moccasins, awls, knives, +beads, and looking-glasses. We also gave them all a plentiful meal of +Indian corn, of which the hull is taken off by being boiled in lye; as +this was the first they had ever tasted, they were very much pleased +with it. They had, indeed, abundant sources of surprise in all they +saw--the appearance of the men, their arms, their clothing, the canoes, +the strange looks of the negro, and the sagacity of our dog, all in turn +shared their admiration, which was raised to astonishment by a shot from +the air-gun. This operation was instantly considered 'great medicine,' +by which they, as well as the other Indians, mean something emanating +directly from the Great Spirit, or produced by his invisible and +incomprehensible agency. . . . + +"After the council was over we consulted as to our future operations. +The game did not promise to last here for many days; and this +circumstance combined with many others to induce our going on as soon as +possible. Our Indian information as to the state of the Columbia was of +a very alarming kind; and our first object was, of course, to ascertain +the practicability of descending it, of which the Indians discouraged +our expectations. It was therefore agreed that Captain Clark should set +off in the morning with eleven men, furnished, besides their arms, with +tools for making canoes: that he should take Chaboneau and his wife +to the camp of the Shoshonees, where he was to leave them, in order to +hasten the collection of horses; that he should then lead his men +down to the Columbia, and if he found it navigable, and the timber in +sufficient quantity, begin to build canoes. As soon as he had decided +as to the propriety of proceeding down the Columbia or across the +mountains, he was to send back one of the men with information of it to +Captain Lewis, who by that time would have brought up the whole +party, and the rest of the baggage, as far as the Shoshonee village. +Preparations were accordingly made at once to carry out the +arrangement. . . ." + +"In order to relieve the men of Captain Clark's party from the heavy +weight of their arms, provisions, and tools, we exposed a few articles +to barter for horses, and soon obtained three very good ones, in +exchange for which we gave a uniform coat, a pair of leggings, a few +handkerchiefs, three knives, and some other small articles, the whole +of which did not, in the United States, cost more than twenty dollars; +a fourth was purchased by the men for an old checkered shirt, a pair +of old leggings, and a knife. The Indians seemed to be quite as well +pleased as ourselves at the bargain they had made. We now found that the +two inferior chiefs were somewhat displeased at not having received a +present equal to that given to the great chief, who appeared in a dress +so much finer than their own. To allay their discontent, we bestowed on +them two old coats, and promised them if they were active in assisting +us across the mountains they should have an additional present. This +treatment completely reconciled them, and the whole Indian party, except +two men and two women, set out in perfect good humor to return to their +home with Captain Clark." + + + + +Chapter XIV -- Across the Great Divide + +Captain Clark had now left the water-shed of the Missouri behind him, +and was pressing on, over a broken, hilly country, to the lands from +which issue the tributaries of the Columbia. The Indian village which +Captain Lewis had previously visited had been removed two miles up the +stream on which it was situated, and was reached by Clark on August 20. +The party was very ceremoniously received by Chief Cameahwait, and +all hands began to explain to the white men the difficulties of the +situation. How to transport the canoes and baggage over the mountains +to some navigable stream leading into the Columbia was now the serious +problem. The Indian chief and his old men dwelt on the obstacles in the +way and argued that it was too late in the season to make the attempt. +They even urged the white men to stay with them until another spring, +when Indian guides would be furnished them to proceed on their journey +westward. + +On the twenty-first, Clark passed the junction of two streams, the +Salmon and the Lemhi, which is now the site of Salmon City, Idaho. As +Captain Lewis was the first white man who had seen these waters, +Clark gave to the combined water-course the name of Lewis' River. The +mountains here assumed a formidable aspect, and the stream was too +narrow, rapid, and rock-bound to admit of navigation. The journal says +of Captain Clark:-- + +"He soon began to perceive that the Indian accounts had not been +exaggerated. At the distance of a mile he passed a small creek (on the +right), and the points of four mountains, which were rocky, and so high +that it seemed almost impossible to cross them with horses. The road lay +over the sharp fragments of rocks which had fallen from the mountains, +and were strewed in heaps for miles together; yet the horses, altogether +unshod, travelled across them as fast as the men, without detaining them +a moment. They passed two bold running streams, and reached the entrance +of a small river, where a few Indian families resided, who had not been +previously acquainted with the arrival of the whites; the guide was +behind, and the woods were so thick that we came upon them unobserved, +till at a very short distance. As soon as they saw us the women and +children fled in great consternation; the men offered us everything they +had--the fish on the scaffolds, the dried berries, and the collars of +elks' tushes worn by the children. We took only a small quantity of the +food, and gave them in return some small articles which conduced very +much to pacify them. The guide now coming up, explained to them who we +were and the object of our visit, which seemed to relieve their fears; +still a number of the women and children did not recover from their +fright, but cried during our stay, which lasted about an hour. The +guide, whom we found a very intelligent, friendly old man, informed us +that up this river there was a road which led over the mountains to the +Missouri." + +To add to their difficulties, game had almost entirely disappeared, and +the abundant fish in the river could not be caught for lack of proper +fishing-tackle. Timber from which canoes could be made, there was none, +and the rapids in the rivers were sharp and violent. With his Indian +guide and three men, Captain Clark now pressed on his route of survey, +leaving the remainder of his men behind to hunt and fish. He went down +the Salmon River about fifty-two miles, making his way as best he could +along its banks. Finding the way absolutely blocked for their purposes, +Captain Clark returned on the twenty-fifth of August and rejoined the +party that he had left behind. These had not been able to kill anything, +and for a time starvation stared them in the face. Under date of August +27, the journal says:-- + +"The men, who were engaged last night in mending their moccasins, all +except one, went out hunting, but no game was to be procured. One of the +men, however, killed a small salmon, and the Indians made a present of +another, on which the whole party made a very slight breakfast. These +Indians, to whom this life is familiar, seem contented, although they +depend for subsistence on the scanty productions of the fishery. But +our men, who are used to hardships, but have been accustomed to have +the first wants of nature regularly supplied, feel very sensibly their +wretched situation; their strength is wasting away; they begin to +express their apprehensions of being without food in a country perfectly +destitute of any means of supporting life, except a few fish. In the +course of the day an Indian brought into the camp five salmon, two of +which Captain Clark bought and made a supper for the party." + +Two days later, Captain Clark and his men joined the main party, having +met the only repulse that was suffered by the expedition from first to +last. Eluding the vigilance of the Indians, caches, or hiding-places, +for the baggage were constructed, filled, and concealed, the work being +done after dark. The weather was now very cold, although August had +not passed. Ink froze in the pen during the night, and the meadows were +white with frost; but the days were warm, even hot. + +In the absence of Captain Clark, his colleague and party had been +visited by Cameahwait and about fifty of his band, with their women and +children. Captain Lewis' journal says:-- + +"After they had camped near us and turned loose their horses, we called +a council of all the chiefs and warriors, and addressed them in a +speech. Additional presents were then distributed, particularly to +the two second chiefs, who had, agreeably to their promises, exerted +themselves in our favor. The council was then adjourned, and all the +Indians were treated with an abundant meal of boiled Indian corn and +beans. The poor wretches, who had no animal food and scarcely anything +but a few fish, had been almost starved, and received this new luxury +with great thankfulness. Out of compliment to the chief, we gave him +a few dried squashes, which we had brought from the Mandans, and he +declared it was the best food he had ever tasted except sugar, a small +lump of which he had received from his sister Sacajawea. He now declared +how happy they should all be to live in a country which produced so many +good things; and we told him that it would not be long before the white +men would put it in their power to live below the mountains, where they +might themselves cultivate all these kinds of food, instead of wandering +in the mountains. He appeared to be much pleased with this information, +and the whole party being now in excellent temper after their repast, we +began our purchase of horses. We soon obtained five very good ones, on +very reasonable terms--that is, by giving for each horse merchandise +which cost us originally about $6. We have again to admire the perfect +decency and propriety of the Indians; for though so numerous, they do +not attempt to crowd round our camp or take anything which they see +lying about, and whenever they borrow knives or kettles or any other +article from the men, they return them with great fidelity." + +Captain Lewis anxiously wished to push on to meet Clark, who, as we +have seen, was then far down on the Salmon River. Lewis was still at +the forks of Jefferson River, it should be borne in mind; and their +objective point was the upper Shoshonee village on the Lemhi River, +across the divide. While on the way over the divide, Lewis was greatly +troubled by the freaks of the Indians, who, regardless of their +promises, would propose to return to the buffalo country on the eastern +side of the mountains. Learning that Cameahwait and his chiefs had sent +a messenger over to the Lemhi to notify the village to come and join an +expedition of this sort, Captain Lewis was dismayed. His journal says:-- + +"Alarmed at this new caprice of the Indians, which, if not counteracted, +threatened to leave ourselves and our baggage on the mountains, or +even if we reached the waters of the Columbia, to prevent our obtaining +horses to go on further, Captain Lewis immediately called the three +chiefs together. After smoking a pipe he asked them if they were men +of their word, and if we could rely on their promises. They readily +answered in the affirmative. He then asked if they had not agreed to +assist us in carrying our baggage over the mountains. To this they also +answered yes. 'Why, then,' said he, 'have you requested your people +to meet us to-morrow where it will be impossible for us to trade for +horses, as you promised we should? If,' he continued, 'you had not +promised to help us in transporting our goods over the mountains, we +should not have attempted it, but have returned down the river; after +which no white men would ever have come into your country. If you wish +the whites to be your friends, to bring you arms, and to protect you +from your enemies, you should never promise what you do not mean +to perform. When I first met you, you doubted what I said, yet you +afterward saw that I told you the truth. How, therefore, can you doubt +what I now tell you? You see that I divide amongst you the meat which +my hunters kill, and I promise to give all who assist us a share of +whatever we have to eat. If, therefore, you intend to keep your promise, +send one of the young men immediately, to order the people to remain at +the village till we arrive.' The two inferior chiefs then said that they +had wished to keep their word and to assist us; that they had not sent +for the people, but on the contrary had disapproved of that measure, +which was done wholly by the first chief. Cameahwait remained silent +for some time; at last he said that he knew he had done wrong, but that, +seeing his people all in want of provisions, he had wished to hasten +their departure for the country where their wants might be supplied. +He, however, now declared that, having passed his word, he would never +violate it, and counter-orders were immediately sent to the village by +a young man, to whom we gave a handkerchief in order to ensure despatch +and fidelity. . . . + +"This difficulty being now adjusted, our march was resumed with an +unusual degree of alacrity on the part of the Indians. We passed a spot +where, six years ago, the Shoshonees had suffered a very severe defeat +from the Minnetarees; and late in the evening we reached the upper part +of the cove, where the creek enters the mountains. The part of the cove +on the northeast side of the creek has lately been burned, most probably +as a signal on some occasion. Here we were joined by our hunters with a +single deer, which Captain Lewis gave, as a proof of his sincerity, +to the women and children, and remained supperless himself. As we came +along we observed several large hares, some ducks, and many of the cock +of the plains: in the low grounds of the cove were also considerable +quantities of wild onions." + +Arriving at the Shoshonee village on the Lemhi, Captain Lewis found a +note from Captain Clark, sent back by a runner, informing him of +the difficulty and impossibility of a water route to the Columbia. +Cameahwait, being told that his white friends would now need twenty more +horses, said that he would do what he could to help them. The journal +here adds:-- + +"In order not to lose the present favorable moment, and to keep the +Indians as cheerful as possible, the violins were brought out and our +men danced, to the great diversion of the Indians. This mirth was the +more welcome because our situation was not precisely that which would +most dispose us to gayety; for we have only a little parched corn to +eat, and our means of subsistence or of success depend on the wavering +temper of the natives, who may change their minds to-morrow. . . . + +"The Shoshonees are a small tribe of the nation called the Snake +Indians, a vague appellation, which embraces at once the inhabitants of +the southern parts of the Rocky Mountains and of the plains on either +side. The Shoshonees with whom we now were amount to about one hundred +warriors, and three times that number of women and children. Within +their own recollection they formerly lived in the plains, but they have +been driven into the mountains by the Pahkees, or the roving Indians +of the Sascatchawan, and are now obliged to visit occasionally, and +by stealth, the country of their ancestors. Their lives, indeed, are +migratory. From the middle of May to the beginning of September they +reside on the headwaters of the Columbia, where they consider themselves +perfectly secure from the Pahkees, who have never yet found their way to +that retreat. During this time they subsist chiefly on salmon, and, as +that fish disappears on the approach of autumn, they are driven to seek +subsistence elsewhere. They then cross the ridge to the waters of the +Missouri, down which they proceed slowly and cautiously, till they are +joined near the Three Forks by other bands, either of their own nation +or of the Flatheads, with whom they associate against the common enemy. +Being now strong in numbers, they venture to hunt the buffalo in the +plains eastward of the mountains, near which they spend the winter, till +the return of the salmon invites them to the Columbia. But such is their +terror of the Pahkees, that, so long as they can obtain the scantiest +subsistence, they do not leave the interior of the mountains; and, as +soon as they have collected a large stock of dried meat, they again +retreat, thus alternately obtaining their food at the hazard of their +lives, and hiding themselves to consume it. + +"In this loose and wandering life they suffer the extremes of want; for +two thirds of the year they are forced to live in the mountains, passing +whole weeks without meat, and with nothing to eat but a few fish and +roots. Nor can anything be imagined more wretched than their condition +at the present time, when the salmon is fast retiring, when roots are +becoming scarce, and they have not yet acquired strength to hazard an +encounter with their enemies. So insensible are they, however, to these +calamities, that the Shoshonees are not only cheerful, but even gay; and +their character, which is more interesting than that of any Indians +we have seen, has in it much of the dignity of misfortune. In their +intercourse with strangers they are frank and communicative; in their +dealings they are perfectly fair; nor have we, during our stay with +them, had any reason to suspect that the display of all our new and +valuable wealth has tempted them into a single act of dishonesty. While +they have generally shared with us the little they possess, they have +always abstained from begging anything from us. With their liveliness +of temper, they are fond of gaudy dresses and all sorts of amusements, +particularly games of hazard; and, like most Indians, delight in +boasting of their warlike exploits, either real or fictitious. In their +conduct towards us they have been kind and obliging; and though on one +occasion they seemed willing to neglect us, yet we scarcely knew how to +blame the treatment by which we were to suffer, when we recollected how +few civilized chiefs would have hazarded the comforts or the subsistence +of their people for the sake of a few strangers. . . . . . . . . . + +"As war is the chief occupation, bravery is the first virtue among +the Shoshonees. None can hope to be distinguished without having given +proofs of it, nor can there be any preferment or influence among the +nation, without some warlike achievement. Those important events which +give reputation to a warrior, and entitle him to a new name, are: +killing a white (or grizzly) bear, stealing individually the horses +of the enemy, leading a party who happen to be successful either in +plundering horses or destroying the enemy, and lastly, scalping a +warrior. These acts seem of nearly equal dignity, but the last, that +of taking an enemy's scalp, is an honor quite independent of the act of +vanquishing him. To kill your adversary is of no importance unless the +scalp is brought from the field of battle; were a warrior to slay any +number of his enemies in action, and others were to obtain the scalps +or first touch the dead, they would have all the honors, since they have +borne off the trophy. . . ." + +"The names of these Indians vary in the course of their life. Originally +given in childhood, from the mere necessity of distinguishing objects, +or from some accidental resemblance to external objects, the young +warrior is impatient to change it by some achievement of his own. Any +important event--the stealing of horses, the scalping of an enemy, or +the killing of a brown bear--entitles him at once to a new name, +which he then selects for himself, and it is confirmed by the nation. +Sometimes the two names subsist together; thus, the chief Cameahwait, +which means 'One Who Never Walks,' has the war-name of Tooettecone, or +'Black Gun,' which he acquired when he first signalized himself. As each +new action gives a warrior a right to change his name, many of them have +several in the course of their lives. To give to a friend one's own name +is an act of high courtesy, and a pledge, like that of pulling off the +moccasin, of sincerity and hospitality. The chief in this way gave his +name to Captain Clark when he first arrived, and he was afterward known +among the Shoshonees by the name of Cameahwait." + +On the thirtieth of August, the whole expedition being now reunited, and +a sufficient number of horses having been purchased of the Shoshonees, +the final start across the mountains was begun. The journal says: + +"The greater part of the band, who had delayed their journey on our +account, were also ready to depart. We took leave of the Shoshonees, +who set out on their visit to the Missouri at the same time that we, +accompanied by the old guide, his four sons, and another Indian, began +the descent of the Lemhi River, along the same road which Captain Clark +had previously pursued. After riding twelve miles we camped on the south +bank of this river, and as the hunters had brought in three deer early +in the morning, we did not feel the want of provisions." + +Three days later, all the Indians, except the old guide, left them. +They now passed up Fish Creek, and finding no track leading over the +mountains they cut their way. Their journal says:-- + +"This we effected with much difficulty; the thickets of trees and brush +through which we were obliged to cut our way required great labor; the +road itself was over the steep and rocky sides of the hills, where the +horses could not move without danger of slipping down, while their +feet were bruised by the rocks and stumps of trees. Accustomed as these +animals were to this kind of life, they suffered severely; several of +them fell to some distance down the sides of the hills, some turned over +with the baggage, one was crippled, and two gave out, exhausted with +fatigue. After crossing the creek several times we at last made five +miles, with great fatigue and labor, and camped on the left side of the +creek in a small stony low ground. It was not, however, till after dark +that the whole party was collected; and then, as it rained and we had +killed nothing, we passed an uncomfortable night. The party had been +too busily occupied with the horses to make any hunting excursion; and +though, as we came along Fish Creek, we saw many beaver-dams, we saw +none of the animals themselves." + +The Indian guide appears here to have lost his way; but, not dismayed, +he pushed on through a trackless wilderness, sometimes travelling on +the snow that now covered the mountains. On the fourth of September, the +party came upon a large encampment of Indians, who received them with +much ceremony. The journal says:-- + +"September 5, we assembled the chiefs and warriors, and informed them +who we were, and the purpose for which we had visited their country. All +this was, however, conveyed to them through so many different languages, +that it was not comprehended without difficulty. We therefore proceeded +to the more intelligible language of presents, and made four chiefs by +giving a medal and a small quantity of tobacco to each. We received in +turn from the principal chief a present consisting of the skins of a +blaireau (badger), an otter, and two antelopes, and were treated by +the women to some dried roots and berries. We then began to traffic for +horses, and succeeded in exchanging seven and purchasing eleven, for +which we gave a few articles of merchandise. + +"This encampment consists of thirty-three tents, in which were about +four hundred souls, among whom eighty were men. They are called +Ootlashoots, and represent themselves as one band of a nation called +Tushepaws, a numerous people of four hundred and fifty tents, residing +on the head-waters of the Missouri and Columbia rivers, and some of +them lower down the latter river. In person these Indians are stout, and +their complexion lighter than that common among Indians. The hair of +the men is worn in queues of otter skin, falling in front over the +shoulders. A shirt of dressed skin covers the body to the knee, and +over this is worn occasionally a robe. To these are added leggings and +moccasins. The women suffer their hair to fall in disorder over the face +and shoulders, and their chief article of covering is a long shirt of +skin, reaching down to the ankles, and tied round the waist. In other +respects, as also in the few ornaments which they possess, their +appearance is similar to that of the Shoshonees: there is, however, a +difference between the languages of these two people, which is still +farther increased by the very extraordinary pronunciation of the +Ootlashoots. Their words have all a remarkably guttural sound, and there +is nothing which seems to represent the tone of their speaking more +exactly than the clucking of a fowl or the noise of a parrot. This +peculiarity renders their voices scarcely audible, except at a short +distance; and, when many of them are talking, forms a strange confusion +of sounds. The common conversation that we overheard consisted of low, +guttural sounds, occasionally broken by a low word or two, after which +it would relapse, and could scarcely be distinguished. They seemed kind +and friendly, and willingly shared with us berries and roots, which +formed their sole stock of provisions. Their only wealth is their +horses, which are very fine, and so numerous that this party had with +them at least five hundred." + +These Indians were on their way to join the other bands who were hunting +buffalo on the Jefferson River, across the Great Divide. They set out +the next morning, and the explorers resumed their toilsome journey, +travelling generally in a northwesterly direction and looking for a pass +across the Bitter Root Mountains. Very soon, all indications of game +disappeared, and, September 14, they were forced to kill a colt, their +stock of animal food being exhausted. They pressed on, however, through +a savage wilderness, having frequent need to recur to horse-flesh. Here +is an entry under date of September 18, in the journal: "We melted some +snow, and supped on a little portable soup, a few canisters of which, +with about twenty pounds' weight of bear's oil, are our only remaining +means of subsistence. Our guns are scarcely of any service, for there is +no living creature in these mountains, except a few small pheasants, +a small species of gray squirrel, and a blue bird of the vulture kind, +about the size of a turtle-dove, or jay. Even these are difficult to +shoot." + +"A bold running creek," up which Captain Clark passed on September 19, +was appropriately named by him "Hungry Creek," as at that place they had +nothing to eat. But, at about six miles' distance from the head of the +stream, "he fortunately found a horse, on which he breakfasted, and hung +the rest on a tree for the party in the rear." This was one of the wild +horses, strayed from Indian bands, which they found in the wilderness, +too wild to be caught and used, but not too wild to shoot and eat. +Later, on the same day, this entry is made in the journal: + +"The road along the creek is a narrow rocky path near the borders +of very high precipices, from which a fall seems almost inevitable +destruction. One of our horses slipped and rolled over with his load +down the hillside, which was nearly perpendicular and strewed with large +irregular rocks, nearly one hundred yards, and did not stop till he fell +into the creek. We all expected he was killed, but to our astonishment, +on taking off his load he rose, seemed but little injured, and in twenty +minutes proceeded with his load. Having no other provision, we took some +portable soup, our only refreshment during the day. This abstinence, +joined with fatigue, has a visible effect on our health. The men are +growing weak and losing their flesh very fast; several are afflicted +with dysentery, and eruptions of the skin are very common." + +Next day, the party descended the last of the Bitter Root range and +reached level country. They were at last over the Great Divide. Three +Indian boys were discovered hiding in the grass, in great alarm. Captain +Clark at once dismounted from his horse, and, making signs of amity, +went after the boys. He calmed their terrors, and, giving them some bits +of ribbon, sent them home. + +"Soon after the boys reached home, a man came out to meet the party, +with great caution; but he conducted them to a large tent in the +village, and all the inhabitants gathered round to view with a mixture +of fear and pleasure these wonderful strangers. The conductor now +informed Captain Clark, by signs, that the spacious tent was the +residence of the great chief, who had set out three days ago with all +the warriors to attack some of their enemies toward the southwest; that +he would not return before fifteen or eighteen days, and that in +the mean time there were only a few men left to guard the women and +children. They now set before them a small piece of buffalo-meat, some +dried salmon, berries, and several kinds of roots. Among these last is +one which is round, much like an onion in appearance, and sweet to the +taste. It is called quamash, and is eaten either in its natural state, +or boiled into a kind of soup, or made into a cake, which is then called +pasheco. After the long abstinence this was a sumptuous treat. They +returned the kindness of the people by a few small presents, and then +went on in company with one of the chiefs to a second village in the +same plain, at the distance of two miles. Here the party were treated +with great kindness, and passed the night. The hunters were sent out, +but, though they saw some tracks of deer, were not able to procure +anything." + +The root which the Indians used in so many ways is now known as camas; +it is still much sought for by the Nez Perces and other wandering tribes +in the Northwest, and Camas Prairie, in that region, derives its name +from the much-sought-for vegetable. + +Captain Clark and his men stayed with these hospitable Indians several +days. The free use of wholesome food, to which he had not lately been +accustomed, made Clark very ill, and he contented himself with staying +in the Indian villages, of which there were two. These Indians called +themselves Chopunnish, or Pierced Noses; this latter name is now more +commonly rendered _Nez Perces_, the French voyageurs having given it that +translation into their own tongue. But these people, so far as known, +did not pierce their noses. After sending a man back on the trail to +notify Captain Lewis of his progress, Captain Clark went on to the +village of Chief Twisted-hair. Most of the women and children, +though notified of the coming of the white man, were so scared by +the appearance of the strangers that they fled to the woods. The men, +however, received them without fear and gave them a plentiful supply +of food. They were now on one of the upper branches of the Kooskooskee +River, near what is the site of Pierce City, county seat of Shoshonee +County, Idaho. The Indians endeavored, by means of signs, to explain to +their visitors the geography of the country beyond. + +"Among others, Twisted-hair drew a chart of the river on a white +elk-skin. According to this, the Kooskooskee forks (confluence of its +North fork) a few miles from this place; two days toward the south +is another and larger fork (confluence of Snake River), on which the +Shoshonee or Snake Indians fish; five days' journey further is a large +river from the northwest (that is, the Columbia itself) into which +Clark's River empties; from the mouth of that river (that is, confluence +of the Snake with the Columbia) to the falls is five days' journey +further; on all the forks as well as on the main river great numbers of +Indians reside." + +On the twenty-third of September, Captain Lewis and his party having +come up, the white men assembled the Indians and explained to them +where they came from and what was their errand across the continent. The +Indians appeared to be entirely satisfied, and they sold their visitors +as much provisions as their half-famished horses could carry. The +journal here says:-- + +"All around the village the women are busily employed in gathering and +dressing the pasheco-root, of which large quantities are heaped in piles +over the plain. We now felt severely the consequence of eating heartily +after our late privations. Captain Lewis and two of the men were taken +very ill last evening; to-day he could hardly sit on his horse, while +others were obliged to be put on horseback, and some, from extreme +weakness and pain, were forced to lie down alongside of the road for +some time. At sunset we reached the island where the hunters had been +left on the 22d. They had been unsuccessful, having killed only two deer +since that time, and two of them were very sick. A little below this +island is a larger one on which we camped, and administered Rush's pills +to the sick." + +The illness of the party continued for several days, and not much +progress was made down-stream. Having camped, on the twenty-seventh of +September, in the Kooskooskee River, at a place where plenty of good +timber was found, preparations for building five canoes were begun. From +this time to the fifth of October, all the men capable of labor were +employed in preparing the canoes. The health of the party gradually +recruited, though they still suffered severely from want of food; and, +as the hunters had but little success in procuring game, they were +obliged on the second to kill one of their horses. Indians from +different quarters frequently visited them, but all that could be +obtained from them was a little fish and some dried roots. This diet was +not only unnutritious, but in many cases it caused dysentery and nausea. + + + + +Chapter XV -- Down the Pacific Slope + +The early days of October were spent in making preparations for the +descent of the river,--the Kooskooskee. Here they made their canoes, and +they called their stopping-place Canoe Camp. This was at the junction +of the north fork of the river with the main stream; and all below that +point is called the Lower Kooskooskee, while that above is known as the +upper river. The latitude of the camp, according to the journal of the +explorers, was 46'0 34' 56" north. Here they buried in a cache their +saddles, horse-gear, and a small supply of powder and musket balls for +possible emergencies. The Kooskooskee, it should be borne in mind, is +now better known as the Clearwater; it empties into the Snake River, and +that into the Columbia. As far as the explorers knew the water-course +down which they were to navigate, they called it Clark's River, in honor +of Captain Clark. But modern geographers have displaced the name of that +eminent explorer and map-maker and have divided the stream, or streams, +with other nomenclature. + +On the eighth of October the party set out on their long water journey +in five canoes, one of which was a small craft intended to go on ahead +and pilot the way (which, of course, was unknown) for the four larger +ones, in which travelled the main party with their luggage. They met +with disaster very soon after their start, one of the canoes having +struck a rock, which made a hole in its side and caused the sinking +of the craft. Fortunately, no lives were lost, but the voyage was +interrupted. The party went ashore and did not resume their journey +until their luggage was dried and the canoe repaired. On the ninth, says +the journal:-- + +"The morning was as usual cool; but as the weather both yesterday and +to-day was cloudy, our merchandise dried but slowly. The boat, though +much injured, was repaired by ten o'clock so as to be perfectly fit for +service; but we were obliged to remain during the day till the articles +were sufficiently dry to be reloaded. The interval we employed in +purchasing fish for the voyage, and conversing with the Indians. In the +afternoon we were surprised at hearing that our old Shoshonee guide and +his son had left us and had been seen running up the river several miles +above. As he had never given any notice of his intention, nor had even +received his pay for guiding us, we could not imagine the cause of his +desertion; nor did he ever return to explain his conduct. We requested +the chief to send a horseman after him to request that he would return +and receive what we owed him. From this, however, he dissuaded us, and +said very frankly that his nation, the Chopunnish, would take from +the old man any presents that he might have on passing their camp. The +Indians came about our camp at night, and were very gay and good-humored +with the men. Among other exhibitions was that of a squaw who appeared +to be crazy. She sang in a wild, incoherent manner, and offered to the +spectators all the little articles she possessed, scarifying herself +in a horrid manner if anyone refused her present. She seemed to be an +object of pity among the Indians, who suffered her to do as she pleased +without interruption." + +The river was full of rapids and very dangerous rocks and reefs, and +the voyagers were able to make only twenty miles a day for some distance +along the stream. At the confluence of the Kooskooskee and the Snake +River they camped for the night, near the present site of Lewiston, +Idaho. This city, first settled in May, 1861, and incorporated in 1863, +was named for Captain Lewis of our expedition. From this point the party +crossed over into the present State of Washington. Of their experience +at their camp here the journal says:-- + +"Our arrival soon attracted the attention of the Indians, who flocked in +all directions to see us. In the evening the Indian from the falls, whom +we had seen at Rugged rapid, joined us with his son in a small canoe, +and insisted on accompanying us to the falls. Being again reduced to +fish and roots, we made an experiment to vary our food by purchasing +a few dogs, and after having been accustomed to horse-flesh, felt no +disrelish for this new dish. The Chopunnish have great numbers of dogs, +which they employ for domestic purposes, but never eat; and our using +the flesh of that animal soon brought us into ridicule as dog-eaters." + +When Fremont and his men crossed the continent to California, in 1842, +they ate the flesh of that species of marmot which we know as the +prairie-dog. Long afterwards, when Fremont was a candidate for the +office of President of the United States, this fact was recalled to the +minds of men, and the famous explorer was denounced as "a dog-eater." + +The journal of the explorers gives this interesting account of the +Indians among whom they now found themselves:-- + +"The Chopunnish or Pierced-nose nation, who reside on the Kooskooskee +and Lewis' (Snake) rivers, are in person stout, portly, well-looking +men; the women are small, with good features and generally handsome, +though the complexion of both sexes is darker than that of the +Tushepaws. In dress they resemble that nation, being fond of displaying +their ornaments. The buffalo or elk-skin robe decorated with beads; +sea-shells, chiefly mother-of-pearl, attached to an otter-skin collar +and hung in the hair, which falls in front in two cues; feathers, paints +of different kinds, principally white, green, and light blue, all of +which they find in their own country; these are the chief ornaments +they use. In the winter they wear a short skirt of dressed skins, long +painted leggings and moccasins, and a plait of twisted grass round the +neck. The dress of the women is more simple, consisting of a long shirt +of argalia (argali) or ibex (bighorn) skin, reaching down to the ankles, +without a girdle; to this are tied little pieces of brass, shells, and +other small articles; but the head is not at all ornamented. + +"The Chopunnish have very few amusements, for their life is painful +and laborious; all their exertions are necessary to earn even their +precarious subsistence. During the summer and autumn they are busily +occupied in fishing for salmon and collecting their winter store of +roots. In winter they hunt the deer on snow-shoes over the plains, and +toward spring cross the mountains to the Missouri for the purpose of +rafficking for buffalo-robe. The inconveniences of their comfortless +life are increased by frequent encounters with their enemies from the +west, who drive them over the mountains with the loss of their horses, +and sometimes the lives of many of the nation." + +After making a short stage on their journey, October 11, the party +stopped to trade with the Indians, their stock of provisions being low. +They were able to purchase a quantity of salmon and seven dogs. They +saw here a novel kind of vapor bath which is thus described in the +journal:-- + +"While this traffic was going on we observed a vapor bath or +sweating-house, in a different form from that used on the frontier of +the United States or in the Rocky Mountains. It was a hollow square six +or eight feet deep, formed in the river bank by damming up with mud the +other three sides and covering the whole completely, except an aperture +about two feet wide at the top. The bathers descend by this hole, taking +with them a number of heated stones and jugs of water; after being +seated round the room they throw the water on the stones till the steam +becomes of a temperature sufficiently high for their purposes. The baths +of the Indians in the Rocky Mountains are of different sizes, the +most common being made of mud and sticks like an oven, but the mode of +raising the steam is exactly the same. Among both these nations it is +very uncommon for a man to bathe alone; he is generally accompanied +by one or sometimes several of his acquaintances; indeed, it is so +essentially a social amusement, that to decline going in to bathe when +invited by a friend is one of the highest indignities which can be +offered to him. The Indians on the frontier generally use a bath which +will accommodate only one person, formed of a wicker-work of willows +about four feet high, arched at the top, and covered with skins. In this +the patient sits, till by means of the heated stones and water he +has perspired sufficiently. Almost universally these baths are in the +neighborhood of running water, into which the Indians plunge immediately +on coming out of the vapor bath, and sometimes return again and subject +themselves to a second perspiration. This practice is, however, less +frequent among our neighboring nations than those to the westward. +This bath is employed either for pleasure or for health, and is used +indiscriminately for all kinds of diseases." + +The expedition was now on the Snake River, making all possible speed +toward the Columbia, commonly known to the Indians as "The Great River." +The stream was crowded with dangerous rapids, and sundry disasters were +met with by the way; thus, on the fourteenth of October, a high wind +blowing, one of the canoes was driven upon a rock sidewise and filled +with water. The men on board got out and dragged the canoe upon the +rock, where they held her above water. Another canoe, having been +unloaded, was sent to the relief of the shipwrecked men, who, after +being left on the rock for some time, were taken off without any other +loss than the bedding of two of them. But accidents like this delayed +the party, as they were forced to land and remain long enough to dry +the goods that had been exposed to the water. Several such incidents are +told in the journal of the explorers. Few Indians were to be seen along +the banks of the river, but occasionally the party came to a pile of +planks and timbers which were the materials from which were built the +houses of such Indians as came here in the fishing season to catch +a supply for the winter and for trading purposes. Occasionally, the +complete scarcity of fuel compelled the explorers to depart from their +general rule to avoid taking any Indian property without leave; and they +used some of these house materials for firewood, with the intent to pay +the rightful owners, if they should ever be found. On the sixteenth of +October, they met with a party of Indians, of whom the journal gives +this account:-- + +"After crossing by land we halted for dinner, and whilst we were eating +were visited by five Indians, who came up the river on foot in great +haste. We received them kindly, smoked with them, and gave them a piece +of tobacco to smoke with their tribe. On receiving the present they set +out to return, and continued running as fast as they could while they +remained in sight. Their curiosity had been excited by the accounts of +our two chiefs, who had gone on in order to apprise the tribes of our +approach and of our friendly disposition toward them. After dinner we +reloaded the canoes and proceeded. We soon passed a rapid opposite the +upper point of a sandy island on the left, which has a smaller island +near it. At three miles is a gravelly bar in the river; four miles +beyond this the Kimooenim (Snake) empties into the Columbia, and at its +mouth has an island just below a small rapid. + +"We halted above the point of junction, on the Kimooenim, to confer +with the Indians, who had collected in great numbers to receive us. On +landing we were met by our two chiefs, to whose good offices we were +indebted for this reception, and also the two Indians who had passed +us a few days since on horseback; one of whom appeared to be a man of +influence, and harangued the Indians on our arrival. After smoking with +the Indians, we formed a camp at the point where the two rivers unite, +near to which we found some driftwood, and were supplied by our two old +chiefs with the stalks of willows and some small bushes for fuel. + +"We had scarcely fixed the camp and got the fires prepared, when a chief +came from the Indian camp about a quarter of a mile up the Columbia, at +the head of nearly two hundred men. They formed a regular procession, +keeping time to the music, or, rather, noise of their drums, which +they accompanied with their voices; and as they advanced, they ranged +themselves in a semicircle around us, and continued singing for some +time. We then smoked with them all, and communicated, as well as we +could by signs, our friendly intentions towards every nation, and our +joy at finding ourselves surrounded by our children. After this we +proceeded to distribute presents among them, giving the principal chief +a large medal, a shirt, and a handkerchief; to the second chief, a medal +of a smaller size; and to a third, who had come down from some of the +upper villages, a small medal and a handkerchief. This ceremony being +concluded, they left us; but in the course of the afternoon several of +them returned, and remained with us till a late hour. After they had +dispersed, we proceeded to purchase provisions, and were enabled to +collect seven dogs, to which some of the Indians added small presents of +fish, and one of them gave us twenty pounds of fat dried horse-flesh." + +The explorers were still in the country which is now the State of +Washington, at a point where the counties of Franklin, Yakima, and Walla +Walla come together, at the junction of the Snake and the Columbia. We +quote now from the journal:-- + +"From the point of junction the country is a continued plain, low near +the water, from which it rises gradually, and the only elevation to be +seen is a range of high country running from northeast to southwest, +where it joins a range of mountains from the southwest, and is on the +opposite side about two miles from the Columbia. There is on this plain +no tree, and scarcely any shrubs, except a few willow-bushes; even of +smaller plants there is not much more than the prickly-pear, which is +in great abundance, and is even more thorny and troublesome than any +we have yet seen. During this time the principal chief came down with +several of his warriors, and smoked with us. We were also visited by +several men and women, who offered dogs and fish for sale; but as +the fish was out of season, and at present abundant in the river, we +contented ourselves with purchasing all the dogs we could obtain. + +"The nation among which we now are call themselves Sokulks; with them +are united a few of another nation, who reside on a western branch which +empties into the Columbia a few miles above the mouth of the latter +river, and whose name is Chimnapum. The languages of these two nations, +of each of which we obtained a vocabulary, differ but little from each +other, or from that of the Chopunnish who inhabit the Kooskooskee and +Lewis' rivers. In their dress and general appearance they also much +resemble those nations; the men wearing a robe of deer- antelope-skin, +under which a few of them have a short leathern shirt. The most striking +difference is among the females, the Sokulk women being more inclined to +corpulency than any we have yet seen. Their stature is low, their faces +are broad, and their heads flattened in such a manner that the forehead +is in a straight line from the nose to the crown of the head. Their +eyes are of a dirty sable, their hair is coarse and black, and braided +without ornament of any kind. Instead of wearing, as do the Chopunnish, +long leathern shirts highly decorated with beads and shells, the Sokulk +women have no other covering but a truss or piece of leather tied round +the hips, and drawn tight between the legs. The ornaments usually worn +by both sexes are large blue or white beads, either pendant from their +ears, or round the neck, wrists, and arms; they have likewise bracelets +of brass, copper, and horn, and some trinkets of shells, fishbones, and +curious feathers. + +"The houses of the Sokulks are made of large mats of rushes, and are +generally of a square or oblong form, varying in length from fifteen to +sixty feet, and supported in the inside by poles or forks about six feet +high. The top is covered with mats, leaving a space of twelve or fifteen +inches the whole length of the house, for the purpose of admitting the +light and suffering the smoke to escape. The roof is nearly flat, which +seems to indicate that rains are not common in this open country; and +the house is not divided into apartments, the fire being in the middle +of the enclosure, and immediately under the bole in the roof. The +interior is ornamented with their nets, gigs, and other fishing-tackle, +as well as the bow of each inmate, and a large quiver of arrows, which +are headed with flint. + +"The Sokulks seem to be of a mild and peaceable disposition, and live in +a state of comparative happiness. The men, like those on the Kimooenim, +are said to content themselves with a single wife, with whom the +husband, we observe, shares the labors of procuring subsistence much +more than is common among savages. What may be considered an unequivocal +proof of their good disposition, is the great respect which is shown to +old age. Among other marks of it, we noticed in one of the houses an +old woman perfectly blind, and who, we were told, had lived more than +a hundred winters. In this state of decrepitude, she occupied the best +position in the house, seemed to be treated with great kindness, and +whatever she said was listened to with much attention. They are by no +means obtrusive; and as their fisheries supply them with a competent, if +not an abundant subsistence, although they receive thankfully whatever +we choose to give, they do not importune us by begging. Fish is, indeed, +their chief food, except roots and casual supplies of antelope, which +latter, to those who have only bows and arrows, must be very scanty. +This diet may be the direct or the remote cause of the chief disorder +which prevails among them, as well as among the Flatheads on the +Kooskooskee and Lewis' rivers. With all these Indians a bad soreness +of the eyes is a very common disorder, which is suffered to ripen by +neglect, till many are deprived of one of their eyes, and some have +totally lost the use of both. This dreadful calamity may reasonably, we +think, be imputed to the constant reflection of the sun on the waters, +where they are constantly fishing in the spring, summer, and fall, and +during the rest of the year on the snows of a country which affords no +object to relieve the sight. + +"Among the Sokulks, indeed among all the tribes whose chief subsistence +is fish, we have observed that bad teeth are very general; some have the +teeth, particularly those of the upper jaw, worn down to the gums, and +many of both sexes, even of middle age, have lost them almost entirely. +This decay of the teeth is a circumstance very unusual among Indians, +either of the mountains or the plains, and seems peculiar to the +inhabitants of the Columbia. We cannot avoid regarding as one principal +cause of it the manner in which they eat their food. The roots are +swallowed as they are dug from the ground, frequently covered with a +gritty sand; so little idea have they that this is offensive that all +the roots they offer us for sale are in the same condition." + +The explorers were now at the entrance of the mighty Columbia,--"The +Great River" of which they had heard so much from the Indians. We might +suppose that when they actually embarked upon the waters of the famous +stream, variously known as "The River of the North" and "The Oregon," +the explorers would be touched with a little of the enthusiasm with +which they straddled the headwaters of the Missouri and gazed upon the +snow-covered peaks of the Rocky Mountains. But no such kindling of +the imagination seems to have been noted in their journal. In this +commonplace way, according to their own account, Captain Clark entered +upon the mighty Columbia:-- + +"In the course of the day (October 17, 1805), Captain Clark, in a small +canoe with two men, ascended the Columbia. At the distance of five miles +he passed an island in the middle of the river, at the head of which +was a small but not dangerous rapid. On the left bank, opposite to this +island, was a fishing-place consisting of three mat houses. Here were +great quantities of salmon drying on scaffolds; and, indeed, from the +mouth of the river upward, he saw immense numbers of dead salmon strewed +along the shore, or floating on the surface of the water, which is so +clear that the fish may be seen swimming at the depth of fifteen or +twenty feet. The Indians, who had collected on the banks to observe him, +now joined him in eighteen canoes, and accompanied him up the river. A +mile above the rapids he came to the lower point of an island, where the +course of the stream, which had been from its mouth north eighty-three +degrees west, now became due west. He proceeded in that direction, +until, observing three house's of mats at a short distance, he landed +to visit them. On entering one of these houses, he found it crowded with +men, women, and children, who immediately provided a mat for him to sit +on, and one of the party undertook to prepare something to eat. He began +by bringing in a piece of pine wood that had drifted down the river, +which he split into small pieces with a wedge made of elkhorn, by means +of a mallet of stone curiously carved. The pieces of wood were then +laid on the fire, and several round stones placed upon them. One of the +squaws now brought a bucket of water, in which was a large salmon about +half dried, and, as the stones became heated, they were put into the +bucket till the salmon was sufficiently boiled for use. It was then +taken out, put on a platter of rushes neatly made, and laid before +Captain Clark, while another was boiled for each of his men. During +these preparations he smoked with such about him as would accept of +tobacco, but very few were desirous of smoking, a custom which is +not general among them, and chiefly used as a matter of form in great +ceremonies. + +"After eating the fish, which was of an excellent flavor, Captain Clark +set out and, at the distance of four miles from the last island, came to +the lower point of another near the left shore, where he halted at two +large mat-houses. Here, as at the three houses below, the inhabitants +were occupied in splitting and drying salmon. The multitudes of this +fish are almost inconceivable. The water is so clear that they can +readily be seen at the depth of fifteen or twenty feet; but at this +season they float in such quantities down the stream, and are drifted +ashore, that the Indians have only to collect, split, and dry them on +the scaffolds. Where they procure the timber of which these scaffolds +are composed he could not learn; but as there is nothing but +willow-bushes to be seen for a great distance from this place, it +rendered very probable what the Indians assured him by signs, that they +often used dried fish as fuel for the common occasions of cooking. From +this island they showed him the entrance of the western branch of the +Columbia, called the Tapteal, which, as far as could be seen, bears +nearly west and empties about eight miles above into the Columbia, the +general course of which is northwest." + +The Tapteal, as the journal calls it, is now known as the Yakima, +a stream which has its source in the Cascade range of mountains, +Washington. The party tarried here long enough to secure from the +Indians a tolerably correct description of the river upon which they +were about to embark. One of the chiefs drew upon the skin-side of a +buffalo robe a sketch of the Columbia. And this was transferred to paper +and put into the journal. That volume adds here:-- + +"Having completed the purposes of our stay, we now began to lay in our +stores. Fish being out of season, we purchased forty dogs, for which we +gave small articles, such as bells, thimbles, knitting-needles, brass +wire, and a few beads, an exchange with which they all seemed perfectly +satisfied. These dogs, with six prairie-cocks killed this morning, +formed a plentiful supply for the present. We here left our guide +and the two young men who had accompanied him, two of the three being +unwilling to go any further, and the third being of no use, as he was +not acquainted with the river below. We therefore took no Indians but +our two chiefs, and resumed our journey in the presence of many of the +Sokulks, who came to witness our departure. The morning was cool and +fair, and the wind from the southeast." + +They now began again to meet Indians who had never before seen white +men. On the nineteenth, says the journal:-- + +"The great chief, with two of his inferior chiefs and a third belonging +to a band on the river below, made us a visit at a very early hour. The +first of these was called Yelleppit,--a handsome, well-proportioned +man, about five feet eight inches high, and thirty-five years of age, +with a bold and dignified countenance; the rest were not distinguished +in their appearance. We smoked with them, and after making a speech, +gave a medal, a handkerchief, and a string of wampum to Yelleppit, but a +string of wampum only to the inferior chiefs. He requested us to remain +till the middle of the day, in order that all his nation might come and +see us; but we excused ourselves by telling him that on our return we +would spend two or three days with him. This conference detained us till +nine o'clock, by which time great numbers of the Indians had come down +to visit us. On leaving them we went on for eight miles, when we came to +an island near the left shore, which continued six miles in length. +At its lower extremity is a small island on which are five houses, at +present vacant, though the scaffolds of fish are as usual abundant. A +short distance below are two more islands, one of them near the middle +of the river. On this there were seven houses, but as soon as the +Indians, who were drying fish, saw us, they fled to their houses, and +not one of them appeared till we had passed; when they came out in +greater numbers than is usual for houses of that size, which induced us +to think that the inhabitants of the five lodges had been alarmed at our +approach and taken refuge with them. We were very desirous of landing in +order to relieve their apprehensions, but as there was a bad rapid along +the island all our care was necessary to prevent injury to the canoes. +At the foot of this rapid is a rock on the left shore, which is fourteen +miles from our camp of last night and resembles a hat in shape." + +Later in the day, Captain Clark ascended a bluff on the river bank, +where he saw "a very high mountain covered with snow." This was Mount +St. Helen's, in Cowlitz County, Washington. The altitude of the peak is +nine thousand seven hundred and fifty feet. "Having arrived at the lower +ends of the rapids below the bluff before any of the rest of the party, +he sat down on a rock to wait for them, and, seeing a crane fly across +the river, shot it, and it fell near him. Several Indians had been +before this passing on the opposite side towards the rapids, and some +who were then nearly in front of him, being either alarmed at his +appearance or the report of the gun, fled to their houses. Captain Clark +was afraid that these people had not yet heard that the white men were +coming, and therefore, in order to allay their uneasiness before the +rest of the party should arrive, he got into the small canoe with three +men, rowed over towards the houses, and, while crossing, shot a duck, +which fell into the water. As he approached no person was to be seen +except three men in the plains, and they, too, fled as he came near the +shore. He landed in front of five houses close to each other, but no one +appeared, and the doors, which were of mat, were closed. He went towards +one of them with a pipe in his hand, and, pushing aside the mat, entered +the lodge, where he found thirty-two persons, chiefly men and women, +with a few children, all in the greatest consternation; some hanging +down their heads, others crying and wringing their hands. He went up +to them, and shook hands with each one in the most friendly manner; but +their apprehensions, which had for a moment subsided, revived on his +taking out a burning-glass, as there was no roof to the house, and +lighting his pipe: he then offered it to several of the men, and +distributed among the women and children some small trinkets which he +had with him, and gradually restored a degree of tranquillity among +them. + +"Leaving this house, and directing each of his men to visit a house, he +entered a second. Here he found the inmates more terrified than those in +the first; but he succeeded in pacifying them, and afterward went into +the other houses, where the men had been equally successful. Retiring +from the houses, he seated himself on a rock, and beckoned to some of +the men to come and smoke with him; but none of them ventured to +join him till the canoes arrived with the two chiefs, who immediately +explained our pacific intention towards them. Soon after the +interpreter's wife (Sacajawea) landed, and her presence dissipated all +doubts of our being well-disposed, since in this country no woman +ever accompanies a war party: they therefore all came out, and seemed +perfectly reconciled; nor could we, indeed, blame them for their +terrors, which were perfectly natural. They told the two chiefs that +they knew we were not men, for they had seen us fall from the clouds. In +fact, unperceived by them, Captain Clark had shot the white crane, which +they had seen fall just before he appeared to their eyes: the duck which +he had killed also fell close by him; and as there were some clouds +flying over at the moment, they connected the fall of the birds with +his sudden appearance, and believed that he had himself actually dropped +from the clouds; considering the noise of the rifle, which they had +never heard before, the sound announcing so extraordinary an event. This +belief was strengthened, when, on entering the room, he brought down +fire from the heavens by means of his burning-glass. We soon convinced +them, however, that we were merely mortals; and after one of our chiefs +had explained our history and objects, we all smoked together in great +harmony." + + + + +Chapter XVI -- Down the Columbia to Tidewater + +The voyagers were now drifting down the Columbia River, and they found +the way impeded by many rapids, some of them very dangerous. But their +skill in the handling of their canoes seems to have been equal to the +occasion, although they were sometimes compelled to go around the more +difficult rapids, making a short land portage. When they had travelled +about forty miles down the river, they landed opposite an island on +which were twenty-four houses of Indians; the people, known as the +Pishquitpahs, were engaged in drying fish. No sooner had the white men +landed than the Indians, to the number of one hundred, came across the +stream bringing with them some firewood, a most welcome present in that +treeless country. The visitors were entertained with presents and a long +smoke at the pipe of peace. So pleased were they with the music of two +violins played by Cruzatte and Gibson, of the exploring party, that they +remained by the fire of the white men all night. The news of the arrival +of the white strangers soon spread, and next morning about two hundred +more of the Indians assembled to gaze on them. Later in the day, having +gotten away from their numerous inquisitive visitors, the explorers +passed down-stream and landed on a small island to examine a curious +vault, in which were placed the remains of the dead of the tribe. The +journal says:-- + +"This place, in which the dead are deposited, is a building about sixty +feet long and twelve feet wide, formed by placing in the ground poles +or forks six feet high, across which a long pole is extended the whole +length of the structure; against this ridge-pole are placed broad boards +and pieces of canoes, in a slanting direction, so as to form a shed. +It stands cast and west, and neither of the extremities is closed. +On entering the western end we observed a number of bodies wrapped +carefully in leather robes, and arranged in rows on boards, which were +then covered with a mat. This was the part destined for those who had +recently died; a little further on, bones half decayed were scattered +about, and in the centre of the building was a large pile of them heaped +promiscuously on each other. At the eastern extremity was a mat, on +which twenty-one skulls were placed in a circular form; the mode of +interment being first to wrap the body in robes, then as it decays to +throw the bones into the heap, and place the skulls together. From +the different boards and pieces of canoes which form the vault were +suspended, on the inside, fishing-nets, baskets, wooden bowls, robes, +skins, trenchers, and trinkets of various kinds, obviously intended +as offerings of affection to deceased relatives. On the outside of the +vault were the skeletons of several horses, and great quantities of +their bones were in the neighborhood, which induced us to believe that +these animals were most probably sacrificed at the funeral rites of +their masters." + +Just below this stand the party met Indians who traded with tribes +living near the great falls of the Columbia. That place they designated +as "Tum-tum," a word that signifies the throbbing of the heart. One of +these Indians had a sailor's jacket, and others had a blue blanket and +a scarlet blanket. These articles had found their way up the river from +white traders on the seashore. + +On the twenty-first of October the explorers discovered a considerable +stream which appeared to rise in the southeast and empty into the +Columbia on the left. To this stream they gave the name of Lepage +for Bastien Lepage, one of the voyageurs accompanying the party. The +watercourse, however, is now known as John Day's River. John Day was +a mighty hunter and backwoodsman from Kentucky who went across the +continent, six years later, with a party bound for Astoria, on the +Columbia. From the rapids below the John Day River the Lewis and Clark +party caught their first sight of Mount Hood, a famous peak of the +Cascade range of mountains, looming up in the southwest, eleven thousand +two hundred and twenty-five feet high. Next day they passed the mouth +of another river entering the Columbia from the south and called by +the Indians the Towahnahiooks, but known to modern geography as the Des +Chutes, one of the largest southern tributaries of the Columbia. Five +miles below the mouth of this stream the party camped. Near them was a +party of Indians engaged in drying and packing salmon. Their method of +doing this is thus described:-- + +"The manner of doing this is by first opening the fish and exposing it +to the sun on scaffolds. When it is sufficiently dried it is pounded +between two stones till it is pulverized, and is then placed in a +basket about two feet long and one in diameter, neatly made of grass and +rushes, and lined with the skin of a salmon stretched and dried for the +purpose. Here the fish are pressed down as hard as possible, and the top +is covered with fish-skins, which are secured by cords through the holes +of the basket. These baskets are then placed in some dry situation, the +corded part upward, seven being usually placed as close as they can be +put together, and five on the top of these. The whole is then wrapped +up in mats, and made fast by cords, over which mats are again thrown. +Twelve of these baskets, each of which contains from ninety to one +hundred pounds, form a stack, which is left exposed till it is sent to +market. The fish thus preserved keep sound and sweet for several years, +and great quantities, they inform us, are sent to the Indians who live +below the falls, whence it finds its way to the whites who visit the +mouth of the Columbia. We observe, both near the lodges and on the rocks +in the river, great numbers of stacks of these pounded fish. Besides +fish, these people supplied us with filberts and berries, and we +purchased a dog for supper; but it was with much difficulty that we were +able to buy wood enough to cook it." + +On the twenty-third the voyagers made the descent of the great falls +which had so long been an object of dread to them. The whole height of +the falls is thirty-seven feet, eight inches, in a distance of twelve +hundred yards. A portage of four hundred and fifty yards was made around +the first fall, which is twenty feet high, and perpendicular. By means +of lines the canoes were let down the rapids below. At the season of +high water the falls become mere rapids up which the salmon can pass. On +this point the journal says:-- + +"From the marks everywhere perceivable at the falls, it is obvious that +in high floods, which must be in the spring, the water below the falls +rises nearly to a level with that above them. Of this rise, which is +occasioned by some obstructions which we do not as yet know, the salmon +must avail themselves to pass up the river in such multitudes that this +fish is almost the only one caught in great abundance above the falls; +but below that place we observe the salmon-trout, and the heads of +a species of trout smaller than the salmon-trout, which is in great +quantities, and which they are now burying, to be used as their winter +food. A hole of any size being dug, the sides and bottom are lined with +straw, over which skins are laid; on these the fish, after being well +dried, are laid, covered with other skins, and the hole is closed with a +layer of earth twelve or fifteen inches deep. . . . + +"We saw no game except a sea-otter, which was shot in the narrow channel +as we were coming down, but we could not get it. Having, therefore, +scarcely any provisions, we purchased eight small fat dogs: a food +to which we were compelled to have recourse, as the Indians were very +unwilling to sell us any of their good fish, which they reserved for the +market below. Fortunately, however, habit had completely overcome the +repugnance which we felt at first at eating this animal, and the dog, if +not a favorite dish, was always an acceptable one. The meridian altitude +of to-day gave 45'0 42' 57.3" north as the latitude of our camp. + +"On the beach, near the Indian huts, we observed two canoes of a +different shape and size from any which we had hitherto seen. One of +these we got by giving our smallest canoe a hatchet, and a few trinkets +to the owner, who said he had obtained it from a white man below the +falls in exchange for a horse. These canoes were very beautifully made: +wide in the middle, and tapering towards each end, with curious figures +carved on the bow. They were thin, but, being strengthened by crossbars +about an inch in diameter, tied with strong pieces of bark through +holes in the sides, were able to bear very heavy burdens, and seemed +calculated to live in the roughest water." + +At this point the officers of the expedition observed signs of +uneasiness in the two friendly Indian chiefs who had thus far +accompanied them. They also heard rumors that the warlike Indians below +them were meditating an attack as the party went down. The journal +says:-- + +"Being at all times ready for any attempt of that sort, we were +not under greater apprehensions than usual at this intelligence. We +therefore only re-examined our arms, and increased the ammunition to one +hundred rounds. Our chiefs, who had not the same motives of confidence, +were by no means so much at their ease, and when at night they saw the +Indians leave us earlier than usual, their suspicions of an intended +attack were confirmed, and they were very much alarmed. + +"The Indians approached us with apparent caution, and behaved with more +than usual reserve. Our two chiefs, by whom these circumstances were not +observed, now told us that they wished to return home; that they could +be no longer of any service to us; that they could not understand the +language of the people below the falls; that those people formed a +different nation from their own; that the two people had been at war +with each other; and that as the Indians had expressed a resolution to +attack us, they would certainly kill them. We endeavored to quiet their +fears, and requested them to stay two nights longer, in which time we +would see the Indians below, and make a peace between the two nations. +They replied that they were anxious to return and see their horses. +We however insisted on their remaining with us, not only in hopes of +bringing about an accommodation between them and their enemies, but +because they might be able to detect any hostile designs against us, +and also assist us in passing the next falls, which are not far off, and +represented as very difficult. They at length agreed to stay with us two +nights longer." + +The explorers now arrived at the next fall of the Columbia. Here was a +quiet basin, on the margin of which were three Indian huts. The journal +tells the rest of the story:-- + +"At the extremity of this basin stood a high black rock, which, rising +perpendicularly from the right shore, seemed to run wholly across the +river: so totally, indeed, did it appear to stop the passage, that +we could not see where the water escaped, except that the current was +seemingly drawn with more than usual velocity to the left of the rock, +where was heard a great roaring. We landed at the huts of the Indians, +who went with us to the top of the rock, from which we had a view of +all the difficulties of the channel. We were now no longer at a loss to +account for the rising of the river at the falls; for this tremendous +rock was seen stretching across the river, to meet the high hills on +the left shore, leaving a channel of only forty-five yards wide, through +which the whole body of the Columbia pressed its way. The water, thus +forced into so narrow a passage, was thrown into whirls, and swelled and +boiled in every part with the wildest agitation. But the alternative +of carrying the boats over this high rock was almost impossible in our +present situation; and as the chief danger seemed to be, not from any +obstructions in the channel, but from the great waves and whirlpools, we +resolved to attempt the passage, in the hope of being able, by dexterous +steering, to descend in safety. This we undertook, and with great care +were able to get through, to the astonishment of the Indians in the +huts we had just passed, who now collected to see us from the top of the +rock. The channel continued thus confined for the space of about half a +mile, when the rock ceased. We passed a single Indian hut at the foot +of it, where the river again enlarges to the width of two hundred yards, +and at the distance of a mile and a half stopped to view a very bad +rapid; this is formed by two rocky islands which divide the channel, the +lower and larger of which is in the middle of the river. The appearance +of this place was so unpromising that we unloaded all the most valuable +articles, such as guns, ammunition, our papers, etc., and sent them by +land, with all the men that could not swim, to the extremity of these +rapids. We then descended with the canoes, two at a time; though the +canoes took in some water, we all went through safely; after which we +made two miles, stopped in a deep bend of the river toward the right, +and camped a little above a large village of twenty-one houses. Here +we landed; and as it was late before all the canoes joined us, we were +obliged to remain this evening, the difficulties of the navigation +having permitted us to make only six miles." + +They were then among the Echeloots, a tribe of the Upper Chinooks, now +nearly extinct. The white men were much interested in the houses of +these people, which, their journal set forth, were "the first wooden +buildings seen since leaving the Illinois country." This is the manner +of their construction:-- + +"A large hole, twenty feet wide and thirty in length, was dug to the +depth of six feet; the sides of which were lined with split pieces of +timber rising just above the surface of the ground, and smoothed to the +same width by burning, or by being shaved with small iron axes. These +timbers were secured in their erect position by a pole stretched along +the side of the building near the eaves, and supported on a strong +post fixed at each corner. The timbers at the gable ends rose gradually +higher, the middle pieces being the broadest. At the top of these was a +sort of semicircle, made to receive a ridge-pole the whole length of the +house, propped by an additional post in the middle, and forming the top +of the roof. From this ridge-pole to the eaves of the house were placed +a number of small poles or rafters, secured at each end by fibres of the +cedar. On these poles, which were connected by small transverse bars +of wood, was laid a covering of white cedar, or arbor vitae, kept on by +strands of cedar fibres; but a small space along the whole length of +the ridge-pole was left uncovered, for the purpose of light, and of +permitting the smoke to pass out. The roof, thus formed, had a +descent about equal to that common among us, and near the eaves it was +perforated with a number of small holes, made, most probably, for the +discharge of arrows in case of an attack. The only entrance was by a +small door at the gable end, cut out of the middle piece of timber, +twenty-nine and a half inches high, fourteen inches broad, and reaching +only eighteen inches above the earth. Before this hole is hung a mat; on +pushing it aside and crawling through, the descent is by a small wooden +ladder, made in the form of those used among us. One-half of the inside +is used as a place of deposit for dried fish, of which large quantities +are stored away, and with a few baskets of berries form the only +family provisions; the other half, adjoining the door, remains for the +accommodation of the family. On each side are arranged near the walls +small beds of mats placed on little scaffolds or bedsteads, raised from +eighteen inches to three feet from the ground; and in the middle of the +vacant space is the fire, or sometimes two or three fires, when, as is +usually the case, the house contains three families." + +Houses very like these are built by the Ahts or Nootkas, a tribe of +Indians inhabiting parts of Vancouver Island and the adjacent mainland. +A Nootka calls his house an ourt. + +The good offices of Lewis and Clark, who were always ready to make +peace between hostile tribes, were again successful here. The Echeloots +received the white men with much kindness, invited them to their houses, +and returned their visits after the explorers had camped. Lewis and +Clark told the Echeloot chiefs that the war was destroying them and +their industries, bringing want and privation upon them. The Indians +listened with attention to what was said, and after some talk they +agreed to make peace with their ancient enemies. Impressed with the +sincerity of this agreement, the captains of the expedition invested the +principal chief with a medal and some small articles of clothing. +The two faithful chiefs who had accompanied the white men from the +headwaters of the streams now bade farewell to their friends and allies, +the explorers. They bought horses of the Echeloots and returned to their +distant homes by land. + +Game here became more abundant, and on the twenty-sixth of October the +journal records the fact that they received from the Indians a present +of deer-meat, and on that day their hunters found plenty of tracks of +elk and deer in the mountains, and they brought in five deer, four very +large gray squirrels, and a grouse. Besides these delicacies, one of +the men killed in the river a salmon-trout which was fried in bear's oil +and, according to the journal, "furnished a dish of a very delightful +flavor," doubtless a pleasing change from the diet of dog's flesh with +which they had so recently been regaled. + +Two of the Echeloot chiefs remained with the white men to guide them +on their way down the river. These were joined by seven others of their +tribe, to whom the explorers were kind and attentive. But the visitors +could not resist the temptation to pilfer from the goods exposed to dry +in the sun. Being checked in this sly business, they became ill-humored +and returned, angry, down the river. + +The explorers noticed here that the Indians flattened the heads of +males as well as females. Higher up the river, only the women and female +children had flat heads. The custom of artificially flattening the heads +of both men and women, in infancy, was formerly practised by nearly all +the tribes of the Chinook family along the Columbia River. Various means +are used to accomplish this purpose, the most common and most cruel +being to bind a flat board on the forehead of an infant in such a way +that it presses on the skull and forces the forehead up on to the top of +the head. As a man whose head has been flattened in infancy grows older, +the deformity partly disappears; but the flatness of the head is always +regarded as a tribal badge of great merit. + +"On the morning of the twenty-eighth," says the journal, having dried +our goods, we were about setting out, when three canoes came from above +to visit us, and at the same time two others from below arrived for the +same purpose. Among these last was an Indian who wore his hair in a +que, and had on a round hat and a sailor's jacket, which he said he had +obtained from the people below the great rapids, who bought them from +the whites. This interview detained us till nine o'clock, when we +proceeded down the river, which is now bordered with cliffs of loose +dark colored rocks about ninety feet high, with a thin covering of pines +and other small trees. At the distance of four miles we reached a small +village of eight houses under some high rocks on the right with a small +creek on the opposite side of the river. + +"We landed and found the houses similar to those we had seen at the +great narrows; on entering one of them we saw a British musket, a +cutlass, and several brass tea-kettles, of which they seemed to be very +fond. There were figures of men, birds, and different animals, which +were cut and painted on the boards which form the sides of the room; +though the workmanship of these uncouth figures was very rough, they +were highly esteemed by the Indians as the finest frescos of more +civilized people. This tribe is called the Chilluckittequaw; their +language, though somewhat different from that of the Echeloots, has many +of the same words, and is sufficiently intelligible to the neighboring +Indians. We procured from them a vocabulary, and then, after buying five +small dogs, some dried berries, and a white bread or cake made of roots, +we left them. The wind, however, rose so high that we were obliged, +after going one mile, to land on the left side, opposite a rocky island, +and pass the day." + +On the same day the white chiefs visited one of the most prominent of +the native houses built along the river. + +"This," says the journal, "was the residence of the principal chief of +the Chilluckittequaw nation, who we found was the same between whom and +our two chiefs we had made a peace at the Echeloot village. He received +us, very kindly, and set before us pounded fish, filberts, nuts, the +berries of the sacacommis, and white bread made of roots. We gave, in +return, a bracelet of ribbon to each of the women of the house, with +which they were very much pleased. The chief had several articles, such +as scarlet and blue cloth, a sword, a jacket, and a hat, which must +have been procured from the whites, and on one side of the room were +two wide, split boards, placed together so as to make space for a rude +figure of a man cut and painted on them. On pointing to this, and asking +him what it meant, he said something, of which all that we understood +was 'good,' and then stepped up to the painting, and took out his bow +and quiver, which, with some other warlike instruments, were kept behind +it. + +"He then directed his wife to hand him his medicine-bag, from which he +drew out fourteen forefingers, which he told us had belonged to the same +number of his enemies, whom he had killed in fighting with the nations +to the southeast, in which direction he pointed; alluding, no doubt, to +the Snake Indians, the common enemy of the tribes on the Columbia. This +bag is usually about two feet in length, and contains roots, pounded +dirt, etc., which only the Indians know how to appreciate. It is +suspended in the middle of the lodge; and it is considered as a species +of sacrilege for any one but the owner to touch it. It is an object of +religious fear; and, from its supposed sanctity, is the chief place for +depositing their medals and more valuable articles. They have likewise +small bags, which they preserve in their great medicine-bag, from +whence they are taken, and worn around their waists and necks as amulets +against any real or imaginary evils. This was the first time we had been +apprised that the Indians ever carried from the field any other trophy +than the scalp. These fingers were shown with great exultation; and, +after an harangue, which we were left to presume was in praise of his +exploits, the chief carefully replaced them among the valuable contents +of his red medicine-bag. The inhabitants of this village being part +of the same nation with those of the village we had passed above, the +language of the two was the same, and their houses were of similar form +and materials, and calculated to contain about thirty souls. They were +unusually hospitable and good-humored, so that we gave to the place the +name of the Friendly village. We breakfasted here; and after purchasing +twelve dogs, four sacks of fish, and a few dried berries, proceeded on +our journey. The hills as we passed were high, with steep, rocky sides, +with pine and white oak, and an undergrowth of shrubs scattered over +them." + +Leaving the Friendly village, the party went on their way down the +river. Four miles below they came to a small and rapid river which they +called the Cataract River, but which is now known as the Klikitat. The +rapids of the stream, according to the Indians, were so numerous that +salmon could not ascend it, and the Indians who lived along its banks +subsisted on what game they could kill with their bows and arrows and on +the berries which, in certain seasons, were plentiful. Again we notice +the purchase of dogs; this time only four were bought, and the party +proceeded on their way. That night, having travelled thirty-two miles, +they camped on the right bank of the river in what is now Skamania +County, Washington. Three huts were inhabited by a considerable number +of Indians, of whom the journal has this to say:-- + +"On our first arrival they seemed surprised, but not alarmed, and we +soon became intimate by means of smoking and our favorite entertainment +for the Indians, the violin. They gave us fruit, roots, and root-bread, +and we purchased from them three dogs. The houses of these people are +similar to those of the Indians above, and their language is the same; +their dress also, consisting of robes or skins of wolves, deer, elk, +and wildcat, is made nearly after the same model; their hair is worn in +plaits down each shoulder, and round their neck is put a strip of some +skin with the tail of the animal hanging down over the breast; like the +Indians above, they are fond of otter-skins, and give a great price for +them. We here saw the skin of a mountain sheep, which they say lives +among the rocks in the mountains; the skin was covered with white hair; +the wool was long, thick, and coarse, with long coarse hair on the top +of the neck and on the back, resembling somewhat the bristles of a goat. +Immediately behind the village is a pond, in which were great numbers of +small swan." + +The "mountain sheep" mentioned here are not the bighorn of which we have +heard something in the earlier part of this narrative, but a species +of wild goat found among the Cascade Mountains. The "wildcat" above +referred to is probably that variety of lynx known in Canada and most +of the Northern States and the Pacific as the _loup-cervier_, or +vulgarly, the "lucifee." + +On the last day of October, the next of the more difficult rapids being +near, Captain Clark went ahead to examine the "shoot," as the explorers +called the place which we know as the chute. In the thick wood that +bordered the river he found an ancient burial-place which he thus +describes:-- + +"It consists of eight vaults made of pine or cedar boards closely +connected, about eight feet square and six in height; the top covered +with wide boards sloping a little, so as to convey off the rain. The +direction of all of these vaults is east and west, the door being on +the eastern side, partially stopped with wide boards decorated with rude +pictures of men and other animals. On entering he found in some of them +four dead bodies, carefully wrapped in skins, tied with cords of grass +and bark, lying on a mat, in a direction east and west. The other vaults +contained only bones, which were in some of them piled to the height +of four feet. On the tops of the vaults, and on poles attached to them, +bung brass kettles and frying-pans with holes in their bottoms, baskets, +bowls, sea-shells, skins, pieces of cloth, hair, bags of trinkets and +small bones--the offerings of friendship or affection, which have +been saved by a pious veneration from the ferocity of war, or the more +dangerous temptations of individual gain. The whole of the walls as well +as the door were decorated with strange figures cut and painted on them; +and besides were several wooden images of men, some so old and decayed +as to have almost lost their shape, which were all placed against the +sides of the vaults. These images, as well as those in the houses we +have lately seen, do not appear to be at all the objects of adoration; +in this place they were most probably intended as resemblances of those +whose decease they indicate; when we observe them in houses, they occupy +the most conspicuous part, but are treated more like ornaments than +objects of worship." + +The white men were visited at their camp by many Indians from the +villages farther up the stream. The journal says:-- + +"We had an opportunity of seeing to-day the hardihood of the Indians of +the neighboring village. One of the men shot a goose, which fell into +the river and was floating rapidly toward the great shoot, when an +Indian observing it plunged in after it. The whole mass of the waters of +the Columbia, just preparing to descend its narrow channel, carried the +animal down with great rapidity. The Indian followed it fearlessly +to within one hundred and fifty feet of the rocks, where he would +inevitably have been dashed to pieces; but seizing his prey he +turned round and swam ashore with great composure. We very willingly +relinquished our right to the bird in favor of the Indian who had thus +saved it at the imminent hazard of his life; he immediately set to work +and picked off about half the feathers, and then, without opening it, +ran a stick through it and carried it off to roast." + +With many hair's-breadth escapes, the expedition now passed through the +rapids or "great shoot." The river here is one hundred and fifty yards +wide and the rapids are confined to an area four hundred yards long, +crowded with islands and rocky ledges. They found the Indians living +along the banks of the stream to be kindly disposed; but they had +learned, by their intercourse with tribes living below, to set a high +value on their wares. They asked high prices for anything they had for +sale. The journal says:-- + +"We cannot learn precisely the nature of the trade carried on by the +Indians with the inhabitants below. But as their knowledge of the whites +seems to be very imperfect, and as the only articles which they carry to +market, such as pounded fish, bear-grass, and roots, cannot be an object +of much foreign traffic, their intercourse appears to be an intermediate +trade with the natives near the mouth of the Columbia. From them these +people obtain, in exchange for their fish, roots, and bear-grass, blue +and white beads, copper tea-kettles, brass armbands, some scarlet and +blue robes, and a few articles of old European clothing. But their great +object is to obtain beads, an article which holds the first place in +their ideas of relative value, and to procure which they will sacrifice +their last article of clothing or last mouthful of food. Independently +of their fondness for them as an ornament, these beads are the medium of +trade, by which they obtain from the Indians still higher up the river, +robes, skins, chappelel bread, bear-grass, etc. Those Indians in +turn employ them to procure from the Indians in the Rocky Mountains, +bear-grass, pachico-roots, robes, etc. + +"These Indians are rather below the common size, with high cheek-bones; +their noses are pierced, and in full dress ornamented with a tapering +piece of white shell or wampum about two inches long. Their eyes are +exceedingly sore and weak; many of them have only a single eye, and +some are perfectly blind. Their teeth prematurely decay, and in frequent +instances are altogether worn away. Their general health, however, seems +to be good, the only disorder we have remarked being tumors in different +parts of the body." + +The more difficult rapid was passed on the second day of November, the +luggage being sent down by land and the empty canoes taken down with +great care. The journal of that date says:-- + +"The rapid we have just passed is the last of all the descents of the +Columbia. At this place the first tidewater commences, and the river +in consequence widens immediately below the rapid. As we descended we +reached, at the distance of one mile from the rapid, a creek under +a bluff on the left; at three miles is the lower point of Strawberry +Island. To this immediately succeed three small islands covered with +wood. In the meadow to the right, at some distance from the hills, +stands a perpendicular rock about eight hundred feet high and four +hundred yards around the base. This we called Beacon Rock. Just below is +an Indian village of nine houses, situated between two small creeks. +At this village the river widens to nearly a mile in extent; the low +grounds become wider, and they as well as the mountains on each side are +covered with pine, spruce-pine, cottonwood, a species of ash, and some +alder. After being so long accustomed to the dreary nakedness of the +country above, the change is as grateful to the eye as it is useful in +supplying us with fuel. Four miles from the village is a point of +land on the right, where the hills become lower, but are still thickly +timbered. The river is now about two miles wide, the current smooth and +gentle, and the effect of the tide has been sensible since leaving the +rapid. Six miles lower is a rock rising from the middle of the river to +the height of one hundred feet, and about eighty yards at its base. +We continued six miles further, and halted for the night under a high +projecting rock on the left side of the river, opposite the point of a +large meadow. + +"The mountains, which, from the great shoot to this place, are high, +rugged, and thickly covered with timber, chiefly of the pine species, +here leave the river on each side; the river becomes two and one-half +miles in width; the low grounds are extensive and well supplied with +wood. The Indians whom we left at the portage passed us on their way +down the river, and seven others, who were descending in a canoe for the +purpose of trading below, camped with us. We had made from the foot of +the great shoot twenty-nine miles to-day. The ebb tide rose at our camp +about nine inches; the flood must rise much higher. We saw great numbers +of water-fowl, such as swan, geese, ducks of various kinds, gulls, +plovers, and the white and gray brant, of which last we killed +eighteen." + + + + +Chapter XVII -- From Tidewater to the Sea + +Near the mouth of the river which the explorers named Quicksand River +(now Sandy), they met a party of fifteen Indians who had lately been +down to the mouth of the Columbia. These people told the white men that +they had seen three vessels at anchor below, and, as these must needs +be American, or European, the far-voyaging explorers were naturally +pleased. When they had camped that night, they received other visitors +of whom the journal makes mention:-- + +"A canoe soon after arrived from the village at the foot of the last +rapid, with an Indian and his family, consisting of a wife, three +children, and a woman who had been taken prisoner from the Snake +Indians, living on a river from the south, which we afterward found to +be the Multnomah. Sacajawea was immediately introduced to her, in hopes +that, being a Snake Indian, they might understand each other; but their +language was not sufficiently intelligible to permit them to converse +together. The Indian had a gun with a brass barrel and cock, which he +appeared to value highly." + +The party had missed the Multnomah River in their way down, although +this is one of the three largest tributaries of the Columbia, John Day's +River and the Des Chutes being the other two. A group of islands +near the mouth of the Multnomah hides it from the view of the passing +voyager. The stream is now more generally known as the Willamette, or +Wallamet. The large city of Portland, Oregon, is built on the river, +about twelve miles from its junction with the Columbia. The Indian +tribes along the banks of the Multnomah, or Willamette, subsisted +largely on the wappatoo, an eatable root, about the size of a hen's egg +and closely resembling a potato. This root is much sought after by the +Indians and is eagerly bought by tribes living in regions where it is +not to be found. The party made great use of the wappatoo after they had +learned how well it served in place of bread. They bought here all that +the Indians could spare and then made their way down the river to an +open prairie where they camped for dinner and found many signs of elk +and deer. The journal says:-- + +"When we landed for dinner, a number of Indians from the last village +came down for the purpose, as we supposed, of paying us a friendly +visit, as they had put on their favorite dresses. In addition to their +usual covering they had scarlet and blue blankets, sailors' jackets and +trousers, shirts and hats. They had all of them either war-axes, spears, +and bows and arrows, or muskets and pistols, with tin powder-flasks. +We smoked with them and endeavored to show them every attention, but we +soon found them very assuming and disagreeable companions. While we +were eating, they stole the pipe with which they were smoking, and +the greatcoat of one of the men. We immediately searched them all, and +discovered the coat stuffed under the root of a tree near where they +were sitting; but the pipe we could not recover. Finding us determined +not to suffer any imposition, and discontented with them, they showed +their displeasure in the only way which they dared, by returning in an +ill-humor to their village. + +"We then proceeded and soon met two canoes, with twelve men of the same +Skilloot nation, who were on their way from below. The larger of the +canoes was ornamented with the figure of a bear in the bow and a man in +the stern, both nearly as large as life, both made of painted wood +and very neatly fixed to the boat. In the same canoe were two Indians, +finely dressed and with round hats. This circumstance induced us to give +the name of Image-canoe to the large island, the lower end of which we +now passed at the distance of nine miles from its head." + +Here they had their first full view of Mt. St. Helen's, sometimes called +Mt. Ranier. The peak is in Washington and is 9,750 feet high. It has +a sugar-loaf, or conical, shape and is usually covered with snow. The +narrative of the expedition continues as follows:-- + +"The Skilloots that we passed to-day speak a language somewhat different +from that of the Echeloots or Chilluckittequaws near the long narrows. +Their dress, however, is similar, except that the Skilloots possess +more articles procured from the white traders; and there is this farther +difference between them, that the Skilloots, both males and females, +have the head flattened. Their principal food is fish, wappatoo roots, +and some elk and deer, in killing which with arrows they seem to be very +expert; for during the short time we remained at the village, three deer +were brought in. We also observed there a tame blaireau, (badger)." + +The journal, November 5, says:-- + +"Our choice of a camp had been very unfortunate; for on a sand-island +opposite us were immense numbers of geese, swan, ducks, and other wild +fowl, which during the whole night serenaded us with a confusion of +noises which completely prevented our sleeping. During the latter part +of the night it rained, and we therefore willingly left camp at an early +hour. We passed at three miles a small prairie, where the river is only +three-quarters of a mile in width, and soon after two houses on the +left, half a mile distant from each other; from one of which three men +came in a canoe merely to look at us, and having done so returned home. +At eight miles we came to the lower point of an island, separated from +the right side by a narrow channel, on which, a short distance above +the end of the island, is situated a large village. It is built more +compactly than the generality of the Indian villages, and the front +has fourteen houses, which are ranged for a quarter of a mile along the +channel. As soon as we were discovered seven canoes came out to see +us, and after some traffic, during which they seemed well disposed and +orderly, accompanied us a short distance below." + +The explorers now met Indians of a different nation from those whom they +had seen before. The journal says:-- + +"These people seem to be of a different nation from those we have just +passed; they are low in stature, ill shaped, and all have their heads +flattened. They call themselves Wahkiacum, and their language differs +from that of the tribes above, with whom they trade for wappatoo-roots. +The houses are built in a different style, being raised entirely above +ground, with the caves about five feet high and the door at the corner. +Near the end, opposite this door, is a single fireplace, round which are +the beds, raised four feet from the floor of earth; over the fire +are hung the fresh fish, which, when dried, are stowed away with the +wappatoo-roots under the beds. The dress of the men is like that of the +people above, but the women are clad in a peculiar manner, the robe not +reaching lower than the hip, and the body being covered in cold weather +by a sort of corset of fur, curiously plaited and reaching from the arms +to the hip; added to this is a sort of petticoat, or rather tissue of +white cedar bark, bruised or broken into small strands, and woven into +a girdle by several cords of the same material. Being tied round the +middle, these strands hang down as low as the knee in front, and to the +mid-leg behind; they are of sufficient thickness to answer the purpose +of concealment whilst the female stands in an erect position, but in any +other attitude form but a very ineffectual defence. Sometimes the +tissue is strings of silk-grass, twisted and knotted at the end. After +remaining with them about an hour, we proceeded down the channel with an +Indian dressed in a sailor's jacket for our pilot, and on reaching the +main channel were visited by some Indians who have a temporary residence +on a marshy island in the middle of the river, where is a great +abundance of water-fowl." + +The tribe of Indians known as the Wahkiacums has entirely disappeared; +but the name survives as that of one of the counties of Washington +bordering on the Columbia. Wahkiacum is the county lying next west of +Cowlitz. When the explorers passed down the river under the piloting of +their Indian friend wearing a sailor's jacket, they were in a thick fog. +This cleared away and a sight greeted their joyful vision. Their story +says:-- + +"At a distance of twenty miles from our camp, we halted at a village of +Wahkiacums, consisting of seven ill-looking houses, built in the same +form with those above, and situated at the foot of the high hills on the +right, behind two small marshy islands. We merely stopped to purchase +some food and two beaver skins, and then proceeded. Opposite to these +islands the hills on the left retire, and the river widens into a kind +of bay, crowded with low islands, subject to be overflowed occasionally +by the tide. We had not gone far from this village when, the fog +suddenly clearing away, we were at last presented with the glorious +sight of the ocean--that ocean, the object of all our labors, the reward +of all our anxieties. This animating sight exhilarated the spirits of +all the party, who were still more delighted on hearing the distant +roar of the breakers. We went on with great cheerfulness along the high, +mountainous country which bordered the right bank: the shore, however, +was so bold and rocky, that we could not, until at a distance of +fourteen miles from the last village, find any spot fit for an +encampment. Having made during the day thirty-four miles, we now spread +our mats on the ground, and passed the night in the rain. Here we were +joined by our small canoe, which had been separated from us during the +fog this morning. Two Indians from the last village also accompanied us +to the camp; but, having detected them in stealing a knife, they were +sent off." + +It is not very easy for us, who have lived comfortably at home, or who +have travelled only in luxurious railway-cars and handsomely equipped +steamers, to realize the joy and rapture with which these far-wandering +explorers hailed the sight of the sea,--the sea to which they had so +long been journeying, through deserts, mountain-passes, and tangled +wildernesses. In his diary Captain Clark thus sets down some indication +of his joy on that memorable day, November 8, 1805: "Great joy in camp. +We are in view of the Ocean, this great Pacific Ocean which we have +been so long anxious to see, and the roaring or noise made by the waves +breaking on the rocky shores (as I suppose) may be heard distinctly." +Later, same day, he says, "Ocean in view! O! the joy!" Fortunately, the +hardships to be undergone on the shores of the ocean were then unknown +and undreamed of; the travellers were thankful to see the sea, the +goal of all their hopes, the end of their long pilgrimage across the +continent. + +That night they camped near the mouth of the river in what is now known +as Gray's Bay, on the north side of the river, in the southwest corner +of Wahkiacum County. Before they could reach their camping-place, +the water was so rough that some of the men had an unusual +experience,--seasickness. They passed a disagreeable night on a narrow, +rocky bench of land. Next day they say: + +"Fortunately for us, the tide did not rise as high as our camp during +the night; but being accompanied by high winds from the south, the +canoes, which we could not place beyond its reach, were filled with +water, and were saved with much difficulty. Our position was very +uncomfortable, but as it was impossible to move from it, we waited for a +change of weather. It rained, however, during the whole day, and at two +o'clock in the afternoon the flood tide set in, accompanied by a high +wind from the south, which, about four o'clock, shifted to the southwest +and blew almost a gale directly from the sea. The immense waves now +broke over the place where we were camped; the large trees, some of them +five or six feet thick, which had lodged at the point, were drifted over +our camp, and the utmost vigilance of every man could scarcely save +our canoes from being crushed to pieces. We remained in the water, and +drenched with rain, during the rest of the day, our only food being +some dried fish and some rain-water which we caught. Yet, though wet +and cold, and some of them sick from using salt water, the men were +cheerful, and full of anxiety to see more of the ocean. The rain +continued all night." + +This was the beginning of troubles. Next day, the wind having lulled, +the party set forth again, only to be beaten back and compelled to take +to the shore again. This was their experience for several days. For +example, under date of the eleventh the journal says:-- + +"The wind was still high from the southwest, and drove the waves against +the shore with great fury; the rain too fell in torrents, and not only +drenched us to the skin, but loosened the stones on the hillsides, +which then came rolling down upon us. In this comfortless situation we +remained all day, wet, cold, with nothing but dried fish to satisfy our +hunger; the canoes in one place at the mercy of the waves, the baggage +in another, and all the men scattered on floating logs, or sheltering +themselves in the crevices of the rocks and hillsides. A hunter was +despatched in hopes of finding some fresh meat; but the hills were so +steep, and so covered with undergrowth and fallen timber, that he could +not penetrate them, and he was forced to return." + +And this is the record for the next day:-- + +"About three o'clock a tremendous gale of wind arose accompanied with +lightning, thunder, and hail: at six it lightened up for a short time, +but a violent rain soon began, and lasted through the day. During the +storm, one of our boats, secured by being sunk with great quantities of +stone, got loose, but, drifting against a rock, was recovered without +having received much injury. Our situation now became much more +dangerous, for the waves were driven with fury against the rocks +and trees, which till now had afforded us refuge: we therefore took +advantage of the low tide, and moved about half a mile round a point to +a small brook, which we had not observed before on account of the thick +bushes and driftwood which concealed its mouth. Here we were more safe, +but still cold and wet; our clothes and bedding rotten as well as wet, +our baggage at a distance, and the canoes, our only means of escape from +this place, at the mercy of the waves. Still, we continued to enjoy good +health, and even had the luxury of feasting on some salmon and three +salmon trout which we caught in the brook. Three of the men attempted to +go round a point in our small Indian canoe, but the high waves rendered +her quite unmanageable, these boats requiring the seamanship of the +natives to make them live in so rough a sea." + +It should be borne in mind that the canoes of the explorers were poor +dug-outs, unfit to navigate the turbulent waters of the bay, and the men +were not so expert in that sort of seamanship as were the Indians whom +they, with envy, saw breasting the waves and making short voyages in the +midst of the storms. It continued to rain without any intermission, +and the waves dashed up among the floating logs of the camp in a very +distracting manner. The party now had nothing but dried fish to eat, +and it was with great difficulty that a fire could be built. On +the fifteenth of the month, Captain Lewis having found a better +camping-place near a sandy beach, they started to move their luggage +thither; but before they could get under way, a high wind from the +southwest sprung up and they were forced to remain. But the sun came out +and they were enabled to dry their stuff, much of which had been spoiled +by the rain which had prevailed for the past ten days. Their fish also +was no longer fit to eat, and they were indeed in poor case. Captain +Lewis was out on a prospecting trip, and the party set out and found a +beach through which a pleasant brook flowed to the river, making a very +good camping-place. At the mouth of this stream was an ancient Chinook +village, which, says the journal, "has at present no inhabitants but +fleas." The adventurers were compelled to steer wide of all old Indian +villages, they were so infested with fleas. At times, so great was +the pest, the men were forced to take off all their clothing and soak +themselves and their garments in the river before they could be rid +of the insects. The site of their new camp was at the southeast end +of Baker's Bay, sometimes called Haley's Bay, a mile above a very high +point of rocks. On arriving at this place, the voyagers met with an +unpleasant experience of which the journal gives this account:-- + +"Here we met Shannon, who had been sent back to meet us by Captain +Lewis. The day Shannon left us in the canoe, he and Willard proceeded +till they met a party of twenty Indians, who, having never heard of us, +did not know where they (our men) came from; they, however, behaved with +so much civility, and seemed so anxious that the men should go with them +toward the sea, that their suspicions were excited, and they declined +going on. The Indians, however, would not leave them; the men being +confirmed in their suspicions, and fearful that if they went into the +woods to sleep they would be cut to pieces in the night, thought it best +to pass the night in the midst of the Indians. They therefore made a +fire, and after talking with them to a late hour, laid down with their +rifles under their heads. As they awoke that morning they found that +the Indians had stolen and concealed their guns. Having demanded them +in vain, Shannon seized a club, and was about assaulting one of the +Indians, whom he suspected as a thief, when another Indian began to +load a fowling-piece with the intention of shooting him. He therefore +stopped, and explained by signs that if they did not give up the guns +a large party would come down the river before the sun rose to such a +height, and put every one of them to death. Fortunately, Captain Lewis +and his party appeared at this time. The terrified Indians immediately +brought the guns, and five of them came on with Shannon. To these men we +declared that if ever any one of their nation stole anything from us, +he should be instantly shot. They reside to the north of this place, and +speak a language different from that of the people higher up the river. + +"It was now apparent that the sea was at all times too rough for us to +proceed further down the bay by water. We therefore landed, and having +chosen the best spot we could select, made our camp of boards from +the old (Chinook) village. We were now situated comfortably, and being +visited by four Wahkiacums with wappatoo-roots, were enabled to make an +agreeable addition to our food." + +On the seventeenth Captain Lewis with a small party of his men coasted +the bay as far out as Cape Disappointment and some distance to the north +along the seacoast. Game was now plenty, and the camp was supplied with +ducks, geese, and venison. Bad weather again set in. The journal under +date of November 22 says:-- + +"It rained during the whole night, and about daylight a tremendous gale +of wind rose from the S.S.E., and continued through the day with great +violence. The sea ran so high that the water came into our camp, which +the rain prevents us from leaving. We purchased from the old squaw, for +armbands and rings, a few wappatoo-roots, on which we subsisted. They +are nearly equal in flavor to the Irish potato, and afford a very good +substitute for bread. The bad weather drove several Indians to our camp, +but they were still under the terrors of the threat which we made on +first seeing them, and behaved with the greatest decency. + +"The rain continued through the night, November 23, and the morning was +calm and cloudy. The hunters were sent out, and killed three deer, four +brant, and three ducks. Towards evening seven Clatsops came over in a +canoe, with two skins of the sea-otter. To this article they attached an +extravagant value; and their demands for it were so high, that we were +fearful it would too much reduce our small stock of merchandise, on +which we had to depend for subsistence on our return, to venture on +purchasing it. To ascertain, however, their ideas as to the value +of different objects, we offered for one of these skins a watch, a +handkerchief, an American dollar, and a bunch of red beads; but neither +the curious mechanism of the watch, nor even the red beads, could tempt +the owner: he refused the offer, but asked for tiacomoshack, or chief +beads, the most common sort of coarse blue-colored beads, the article +beyond all price in their estimation. Of these blue beads we had but +few, and therefore reserved them for more necessitous circumstances." + +The officers of the expedition had hoped and expected to find here some +of the trading ships that were occasionally sent along the coast to +barter with the natives; but none were to be found. They were soon to +prepare for winter-quarters, and they still hoped that a trader might +appear in the spring before they set out on their homeward journey +across the continent. Very much they needed trinkets to deal with the +natives in exchange for, the needful articles of food on the route. But +(we may as well say here) no such relief ever appeared. It is strange +that President Jefferson, in the midst of his very minute orders and +preparations for the benefit of the explorers, did not think of sending +a relief ship to meet the party at the mouth of the Columbia. They would +have been saved a world of care, worry, and discomfort. But at that time +the European nations who held possessions on the Pacific coast were very +suspicious of the Americans, and possibly President Jefferson did not +like to risk rousing their animosity. + +The rain that now deluged the unhappy campers was so incessant that they +might well have thought that people should be web-footed to live in such +a watery region. In these later days, Oregon is sometimes known as "The +Web-foot State." Captain Clark, in his diary, November 28, makes this +entry: "O! how disagreeable is our situation dureing this dreadfull +weather!" The gallant captain's spelling was sometimes queer. Under that +date he adds:-- + +"We remained during the day in a situation the most cheerless and +uncomfortable. On this little neck of land we are exposed, with a +miserable covering which does not deserve the name of a shelter, to +the violence of the winds; all our bedding and stores, as well as +our bodies, are completely wet; our clothes are rotting with constant +exposure, and we have no food except the dried fish brought from the +falls, to which we are again reduced. The hunters all returned hungry +and drenched with rain, having seen neither deer nor elk, and the swan +and brant were too shy to be approached. At noon the wind shifted to the +northwest, and blew with such tremendous fury that many trees were blown +down near us. This gale lasted with short intervals during the whole +night." + +Of course, in the midst of such violent storms, it was impossible to get +game, and the men were obliged to resort once more to a diet of +dried fish, This food caused much sickness in the camp, and it became +imperatively necessary that efforts should again be made to find game. +On the second of December, to their great joy an elk was killed, and +next day they had a feast. The journal says; + +"The wind was from the east and the morning fair; but, as if one whole +day of fine weather were not permitted, toward night it began to rain. +Even this transient glimpse of sunshine revived the spirits of the +party, who were still more pleased when the elk killed yesterday was +brought into camp. This was the first elk we had killed on the west side +of the Rocky Mountains, and condemned as we have been to the dried +fish, it formed a most nourishing food. After eating the marrow of the +shank-bones, the squaw chopped them fine, and by boiling extracted a +pint of grease, superior to the tallow itself of the animal. A canoe of +eight Indians, who were carrying down wappatoo-roots to trade with +the Clatsops, stopped at our camp; we bought a few roots for small +fish-hooks, and they then left us. Accustomed as we were to the sight, +we could not but view with admiration the wonderful dexterity with which +they guide their canoes over the most boisterous seas; for though the +waves were so high that before they had gone half a mile the canoe was +several times out of sight, they proceeded with the greatest calmness +and security. Two of the hunters who set out yesterday had lost their +way, and did not return till this evening. They had seen in their ramble +great signs of elk and had killed six, which they had butchered and left +at a great distance. A party was sent in the morning." + +On the third of December Captain Clark carved on the trunk of a great +pine tree this inscription:-- + +"WM. CLARK DECEMBER 3D 1805 BY LAND FROM THE + +U. STATES IN 1804 & 5." + + +A few days later, Captain Lewis took with him a small party and set out +to find a suitable spot on which to build their winter camp. He did not +return as soon as he was expected, and considerable uneasiness was felt +in camp on that account. But he came in safely. He brought good news; +they had discovered a river on the south side of the Columbia, not far +from their present encampment, where there were an abundance of elk and +a favorable place for a winter camp. Bad weather detained them until the +seventh of December, when a favorable change enabled them to proceed. +They made their way slowly and very cautiously down-stream, the tide +being against them. The narrative proceeds:-- + +"We at length turned a point, and found ourselves in a deep bay: here we +landed for breakfast, and were joined by the party sent out three days +ago to look for the six elk, killed by the Lewis party. They had lost +their way for a day and a half, and when they at last reached the place, +found the elk so much spoiled that they brought away nothing but the +skins of four of them. After breakfast we coasted round the bay, which +is about four miles across, and receives, besides several small creeks, +two rivers, called by the Indians, the one Kilhowanakel, the other +Netul. We named it Meriwether's Bay, from the Christian name of Captain +Lewis, who was, no doubt, the first white man who had surveyed it. The +wind was high from the northeast, and in the middle of the day it rained +for two hours, and then cleared off. On reaching the south side of the +bay we ascended the Netul three miles, to the first point of high land +on its western bank, and formed our camp in a thick grove of lofty +pines, about two hundred yards from the water, and thirty feet above the +level of the high tides." + + + + +Chapter XVIII -- Camping by the Pacific + +Next in importance to the building of a winter camp was the fixing of +a place where salt could be made. Salt is absolutely necessary for the +comfort of man, and the supply brought out from the United States by the +explorers was now nearly all gone. They were provided with kettles +in which sea-water could be boiled down and salt be made. It would be +needful to go to work at once, for the process of salt-making by boiling +in ordinary kettles is slow and tedious; not only must enough for +present uses be found, but a supply to last the party home again was +necessary. Accordingly, on the eighth of December the journal has this +entry to show what was to be done:-- + +"In order, therefore, to find a place for making salt, and to examine +the country further, Captain Clark set out with five men, and pursuing a +course S. 60'0 W., over a dividing ridge through thick pine timber, +much of which bad fallen, passed the beads of two small brooks. In the +neighborhood of these the land was swampy and overflowed, and they waded +knee-deep till they came to an open ridgy prairie, covered with the +plant known on our frontier by the name of sacacommis (bearberry). Here +is a creek about sixty yards wide and running toward Point Adams; they +passed it on a small raft. At this place they discovered a large herd of +elk, and after pursuing them for three miles over bad swamps and small +ponds, killed one of them. The agility with which the elk crossed the +swamps and bogs seems almost incredible; as we followed their track the +ground for a whole acre would shake at our tread and sometimes we sunk +to our hips without finding any bottom. Over the surface of these bogs +is a species of moss, among which are great numbers of cranberries; +and occasionally there rise from the swamp small steep knobs of earth, +thickly covered with pine and laurel. On one of these we halted at +night, but it was scarcely large enough to suffer us to lie clear of +the water, and had very little dry wood. We succeeded, however, in +collecting enough to make a fire; and having stretched the elk-skin to +keep off the rain, which still continued, slept till morning." + +Next day the party were met by three Indians who had been fishing for +salmon, of which they had a goodly supply, and were now on their way +home to their village on the seacoast. They, invited Captain Clark and +his men to accompany them; and the white men accepted the invitation. +These were Clatsops. Their village consisted of twelve families living +in houses of split pine boards, the lower half of the house being +underground. By a small ladder in the middle of the house-front, the +visitors reached the floor, which was about four feet below the surface. +Two fires were burning in the middle of the room upon the earthen floor. +The beds were ranged around the room next to the wall, with spaces +beneath them for bags, baskets, and household articles. + +Captain Clark was received with much attention, clean mats were spread +for him, and a repast of fish, roots, and berries was set before him. +He noticed that the Clatsops were well dressed and clean, and that they +frequently washed their faces and hands, a ceremony, he remarked, that +is by no means frequent among other Indians. A high wind now prevailed, +and as the evening was stormy, Captain Clark resolved to stay all night +with his hospitable Clatsops. The narrative proceeds:-- + +"The men of the village now collected and began to gamble. The most +common game was one in which one of the company was banker, and played +against all the rest. He had a piece of bone, about the size of a large +bean, and having agreed with any individual as to the value of the +stake, would pass the bone from one hand to the other with great +dexterity, singing at the same time to divert the attention of his +adversary; then holding it in his hands, his antagonist was challenged +to guess in which of them the bone was, and lost or won as he pointed +to the right or wrong hand. To this game of hazard they abandoned +themselves with great ardor; sometimes everything they possess is +sacrificed to it; and this evening several of the Indians lost all +the beads which they had with them. This lasted for three hours; when, +Captain Clark appearing disposed to sleep, the man who had been most +attentive, and whose name was Cuskalah, spread two new mats near the +fire, ordered his wife to retire to her own bed, and the rest of the +company dispersed at the same time. Captain Clark then lay down, but +the violence with which the fleas attacked him did not leave his rest +unbroken." + +Next morning, Captain Clark walked along the seashore, and he observed +that the Indians were walking up and down, examining the shore and the +margin of a creek that emptied here. The narrative says:-- + +"He was at a loss to understand their object till one of them came to +him, and explained that they were in search of any fish which might have +been thrown on shore and left by the tide, adding in English, 'sturgeon +is very good.' There is, indeed, every reason to believe that these +Clatsops depend for their subsistence, during the winter, chiefly on the +fish thus casually thrown on the coast. After amusing himself for some +time on the beach, he returned towards the village, and shot on his way +two brant. As he came near the village, one of the Indians asked him +to shoot a duck about thirty steps distant: he did so, and, having +accidentally shot off its head, the bird was brought to the village, +when all the Indians came round in astonishment. They examined the duck, +the musket, and the very small bullets, which were a hundred to the +pound, and then exclaimed, Clouch musque, waket, commatax musquet: Good +musket; do not understand this kind of musket. They now placed before +him their best roots, fish, and syrup, after which he attempted to +purchase a sea-otter skin with some red beads which he happened to have +about him; but they declined trading, as they valued none except blue or +white beads. He therefore bought nothing but a little berry-bread and a +few roots, in exchange for fish-hooks, and then set out to return by the +same route he had come. He was accompanied by Cuskalah and his brother +as far as the third creek, and then proceeded to the camp through a +heavy rain. The whole party had been occupied during his absence in +cutting down trees to make huts, and in hunting." + +This was the occupation of all hands for several days, notwithstanding +the discomfort of the continual downpour. Many of the men were ill from +the effects of sleeping and living so constantly in water. Under date of +December 12, the journal has this entry:-- + +"We continued to work in the rain at our houses. In the evening there +arrived two canoes of Clatsops, among whom was a principal chief, called +Comowol. We gave him a medal and treated his companions with great +attention; after which we began to bargain for a small sea-otter skin, +some wappatoo-roots, and another species of root called shanataque. +We readily perceived that they were close dealers, stickled much for +trifles, and never closed the bargain until they thought they had the +advantage. The wappatoo is dear, as they themselves are obliged to give +a high price for it to the Indians above. Blue beads are the articles +most in request; the white occupy the next place in their estimation; +but they do not value much those of any other color. We succeeded at +last in purchasing their whole cargo for a few fish-hooks and a small +sack of Indian tobacco, which we had received from the Shoshonees." + +The winter camp was made up of seven huts, and, although it was not so +carefully fortified as was the fort in the Mandan country (during the +previous winter), it was so arranged that intruders could be kept out +when necessary. For the roofs of these shelters they were provided with +"shakes" split out from a species of pine which they called "balsam +pine," and which gave them boards, or puncheons, or shakes, ten feet +long and two feet wide, and not more than an inch and a half thick. By +the sixteenth of December their meat-house was finished, and their meat, +so much of which had been spoiled for lack of proper care, was cut up +in small pieces and hung under cover. They had been told by the Indians +that very little snow ever fell in that region, and the weather, +although very, very wet, was mild and usually free from frost. They did +have severe hailstorms and a few flurries of snow in December but the +rain was a continual cause of discomfort. Of the trading habits of the +Clatsops the journal has this to say:-- + +"Three Indians came in a canoe with mats, roots, and the berries of the +sacacommis. These people proceed with a dexterity and finesse in their +bargains which, if they have not learned it from their foreign visitors, +may show how nearly allied is the cunning of savages to the little arts +of traffic. They begin by asking double or treble the value of what they +have to sell, and lower their demand in proportion to the greater or +less degree of ardor or knowledge of the purchaser, who, with all his +management, is not able to procure the article for less than its real +value, which the Indians perfectly understand. Our chief medium of trade +consists of blue and white beads, files,--with which they sharpen their +tools,--fish-hooks, and tobacco; but of all these articles blue beads +and tobacco are the most esteemed." + +But, although their surroundings were not of a sort to make one very +jolly, when Christmas came they observed the day as well as they could. +Here is what the journal says of the holiday:-- + +"We were awaked at daylight by a discharge of firearms, which was +followed by a song from the men, as a compliment to us on the return of +Christmas, which we have always been accustomed to observe as a day of +rejoicing. After breakfast we divided our remaining stock of tobacco, +which amounted to twelve carrots (hands), into two parts; one of which +we distributed among such of the party as make use of it, making a +present of a handkerchief to the others. The remainder of the day was +passed in good spirits, though there was nothing in our situation to +excite much gayety. The rain confined us to the house, and our only +luxuries in honor of the season were some poor elk, so much spoiled that +we ate it through sheer necessity, a few roots, and some spoiled pounded +fish. + +"The next day brought a continuation of rain, accompanied with thunder, +and a high wind from the southeast. We were therefore obliged to still +remain in our huts, and endeavored to dry our wet articles before the +fire. The fleas, which annoyed us near the portage of the Great Falls, +have taken such possession of our clothes that we are obliged to have a +regular search every day through our blankets as a necessary preliminary +to sleeping at night. These animals, indeed, are so numerous that they +are almost a calamity to the Indians of this country. When they have +once obtained the mastery of any house it is impossible to expel them, +and the Indians have frequently different houses, to which they resort +occasionally when the fleas have rendered their permanent residence +intolerable; yet, in spite of these precautions, every Indian is +constantly attended by multitudes of them, and no one comes into our +house without leaving behind him swarms of these tormenting insects." + +Although the condition of the exploring party was low, the men did not +require very much to put them in good spirits. The important and happy +event of finishing their fort and the noting of good weather are thus +set forth in the journal under date of December 30:-- + +"Toward evening the hunters brought in four elk (which Drewyer had +killed), and after a long course of abstinence and miserable diet, we +had a most sumptuous supper of elk's tongues and marrow. Besides this +agreeable repast, the state of the weather was quite exhilarating. It +had rained during the night, but in the morning, though the high wind +continued, we enjoyed the fairest and most pleasant weather since our +arrival; the sun having shone at intervals, and there being only +three showers in the course of the day. By sunset we had completed the +fortification, and now announced to the Indians that every day at that +hour the gates would be closed, and they must leave the fort and not +enter it till sunrise. The Wahkiacums who remained with us, and who were +very forward in their deportment, complied very reluctantly with this +order; but, being excluded from our houses, formed a camp near us. . . . + +"January 1, 1806. We were awaked at an early hour by the discharge of a +volley of small arms, to salute the new year. This was the only mode of +commemorating the day which our situation permitted; for, though we had +reason to be gayer than we were at Christmas, our only dainties were +boiled elk and wappatoo, enlivened by draughts of pure water. We were +visited by a few Clatsops, who came by water, bringing roots and berries +for sale. Among this nation we observed a man about twenty-five years +old, of a much lighter complexion than the Indians generally: his face +was even freckled, and his hair long, and of a colour inclining to red. +He was in habits and manners perfectly Indian; but, though he did not +speak a word of English, he seemed to understand more than the others +of his party; and, as we could obtain no account of his origin, we +concluded that one of his parents, at least, must have been white." + +A novel addition to their bill of fare was fresh blubber, or fat, from a +stranded whale. Under date of January 3 the journal says:-- + +"At eleven o'clock we were visited by our neighbor, the Tia or chief, +Comowool, who is also called Coone, and six Clatsops. Besides roots +and berries, they brought for sale three dogs, and some fresh blubber. +Having been so long accustomed to live on the flesh of dogs, the greater +part of us have acquired a fondness for it, and our original aversion +for it is overcome, by reflecting that while we subsisted on that food +we were fatter, stronger, and in general enjoyed better health than at +any period since leaving the buffalo country, eastward of the mountains. +The blubber, which is esteemed by the Indians an excellent food, has +been obtained, they tell us, from their neighbors, the Killamucks, a +nation who live on the seacoast to the southeast, near one of whose +villages a whale had recently been thrown and foundered." + +Five men had been sent out to form a camp on the seashore and go into +the manufacture of salt as expeditiously as possible. On the fifth of +January, two of them came into the fort bringing a gallon of salt, which +was decided to be "white, fine and very good," and a very agreeable +addition to their food, which had been eaten perfectly fresh for some +weeks past. Captain Clark, however, said it was a "mere matter of +indifference" to him whether he had salt or not, but he hankered for +bread. Captain Lewis, on the other hand, said the lack of salt was a +great inconvenience; "the want of bread I consider trivial," was his +dictum. It was estimated that the salt-makers could turn out three or +four quarts a day, and there was good prospect of an abundant supply +for present needs and for the homeward journey. An expedition to the +seashore was now planned, and the journal goes on to tell how they set +out:-- + +"The appearance of the whale seemed to be a matter of importance to all +the neighboring Indians, and as we might be able to procure some of it +for ourselves, or at least purchase blubber from the Indians, a small +parcel of merchandise was prepared, and a party of the men held in +readiness to set out in the morning. As soon as this resolution was +known, Chaboneau and his wife requested that they might be permitted +to accompany us. The poor woman stated very earnestly that she had +travelled a great way with us to see the great water, yet she had never +been down to the coast, and now that this monstrous fish was also to +be seen, it seemed hard that she should be permitted to see neither the +ocean nor the whale. So reasonable a request could not be denied; they +were therefore suffered to accompany Captain Clark, who, January 6th, +after an early breakfast, set out with twelve men in two canoes." + +After a long and tedious trip, the camp of the saltmakers was reached, +and Captain Clark and his men went on to the remains of the whale, only +the skeleton being left by the rapacious and hungry Indians. The whale +had been stranded between two shore villages tenanted by the Killamucks, +as Captain Clark called them. They are now known as the Tillamook +Indians, and their name is preserved in Tillamook County, Oregon. The +white men found it difficult to secure much of the blubber, or the oil. +Although the Indians had large quantities of both, they sold it with +much reluctance. In Clark's private diary is found this entry: "Small +as this stock (of oil and lubber) is I prize it highly; and thank +Providence for directing the whale to us; and think him more kind to +us than he was to Jonah, having sent this monster to be swallowed by us +instead of swallowing us as Jonah's did." While here, the party had a +startling experience, as the journal says:-- + +"Whilst smoking with the Indians, Captain Clark was surprised, about ten +o'clock, by a loud, shrill outcry from the opposite village, on hearing +which all the Indians immediately started up to cross the creek, and the +guide informed him that someone had been killed. On examination one +of the men (M'Neal) was discovered to be absent, and a guard (Sergeant +Pryor and four men) despatched, who met him crossing the creek in great +haste. An Indian belonging to another band, who happened to be with the +Killamucks that evening, had treated him with much kindness, and walked +arm in arm with him to a tent where our man found a Chinnook squaw, +who was an old acquaintance. From the conversation and manner of the +stranger, this woman discovered that his object was to murder the white +man for the sake of the few articles on his person; when he rose and +pressed our man to go to another tent where they would find something +better to eat, she held M'Neal by the blanket; not knowing her object, +he freed himself from her, and was going on with his pretended friend, +when she ran out and gave the shriek which brought the men of the +village over, and the stranger ran off before M'Neal knew what had +occasioned the alarm." + +The "mighty hunter" of the Lewis and Clark expedition was Drewyer, whose +name has frequently been mentioned in these pages. Under date of January +12, the journal has this just tribute to the man:-- + +"Our meat is now becoming scarce; we therefore determined to jerk it, +and issue it in small quantities, instead of dividing it among the four +messes, and leaving to each the care of its own provisions; a plan by +which much is lost, in consequence of the improvidence of the men. Two +hunters had been despatched in the morning, and one of them, Drewyer, +had before evening killed seven elk. We should scarcely be able to +subsist, were it not for the exertions of this most excellent hunter. +The game is scarce, and nothing is now to be seen except elk, which for +almost all the men are very difficult to be procured; but Drewyer, who +is the offspring of a Canadian Frenchman and an Indian woman, has passed +his life in the woods, and unites, in a wonderful degree, the dexterous +aim of the frontier huntsman with the intuitive sagacity of the Indian, +in pursuing the faintest tracks through the forest. All our men, +however, have indeed become so expert with the rifle that we are never +under apprehensions as to food; since, whenever there is game of any +kind, we are almost certain of procuring it." + +The narrative of the explorers gives this account of the Chinooks:-- + +"The men are low in stature, rather ugly, and ill made; their legs being +small and crooked, their feet large, and their heads, like those of the +women, flattened in a most disgusting manner. These deformities are +in part concealed by robes made of sea-otter, deer, elk, beaver or +fox skins. They also employ in their dress robes of the skin of a cat +peculiar to this country, and of another animal of the same size, which +is light and durable, and sold at a high price by the Indians who bring +it from above. In addition to these are worn blankets, wrappers of red, +blue, or spotted cloth, and some old sailors' clothes, which are very +highly prized. The greater part of the men have guns, with powder and +ball. + +"The women have in general handsome faces, but are low and +disproportioned, with small feet and large legs, occasioned, probably, +by strands of beads, or various strings, drawn so tight above the ankles +as to prevent the circulation of the blood. Their dress, like that of +the Wahkiacums, consists of a short robe and a tissue of cedar bark. +Their hair hangs loosely down the shoulders and back; and their ears, +neck, and wrists are ornamented with blue beads. Another decoration, +which is very highly prized, consists of figures made by puncturing the +arms or legs; and on the arms of one of the squaws we observed the name +of J. Bowman, executed in the same way. In language, habits, and in +almost every other particular, they resemble the Clatsops, Cathlamahs, +and, indeed, all the people near the mouth of the Columbia, though they +appeared to be inferior to their neighbors in honesty as well as spirit. +No ill treatment or indignity on our part seemed to excite any feeling +except fear; nor, although better provided than their neighbors with +arms, have they enterprise enough either to use them advantageously +against the animals of the forest, or offensively against the +tribes near them, who owe their safety more to the timidity than the +forbearance of the Chinooks. We had heard instances of pilfering while +we were among them, and therefore gave a general order excluding them +from our encampment, so that whenever an Indian wished to visit us, he +began by calling out 'No Chinook.' It is not improbable that this first +impression may have left a prejudice against them, since, when we were +among the Clatsops and other tribes at the mouth of the Columbia, they +had less opportunity of stealing, if they were so disposed." + +The weeks remaining before the party set out on their return were passed +without notable incident. The journal is chiefly occupied with comments +on the weather, which was variable, and some account of the manners and +customs of the Indian tribes along the Columbia River. At that time, +so few traders had penetrated the wilds of the Lower Columbia that the +Indians were not supplied with firearms to any great extent. Their main +reliance was the bow and arrow. A few shotguns were seen among them, +but no rifles, and great was the admiration and wonder with which the +Indians saw the white men slay birds and animals at a long distance. +Pitfalls for elk were constructed by the side of fallen trees over which +the animals might leap. Concerning the manufactures of the Clatsops, +they reported as follows:-- + +"Their hats are made of cedar-bark and bear-grass, interwoven together +in the form of a European hat, with a small brim of about two inches, +and a high crown widening upward. They are light, ornamented with +various colors and figures, and being nearly water-proof, are much more +durable than either chip or straw hats. These hats form a small article +of traffic with the whites, and their manufacture is one of the best +exertions of Indian industry. They are, however, very dexterous in +making a variety of domestic utensils, among which are bowls, spoons, +scewers (skewers), spits, and baskets. The bowl or trough is of +different shapes--round, semicircular, in the form of a canoe, or cubic, +and generally dug out of a single piece of wood; the larger vessels have +holes in the sides by way of handles, and all are executed with great +neatness. In these vessels they boil their food, by throwing hot stones +into the water, and extract oil from different animals in the same way. +Spoons are not very abundant, nor is there anything remarkable in their +shape, except that they are large and the bowl broad. Meat is roasted on +one end of a sharp skewer, placed erect before the fire, with the other +end fixed in the ground. + +"But the most curious workmanship is that of the basket. It is formed of +cedar-bark and bear-grass, so closely interwoven that it is water-tight, +without the aid of either gum or resin. The form is generally conic, or +rather the segment (frustum) of a cone, of which the smaller end is +the bottom of the basket; and being made of all sizes, from that of the +smallest cup to the capacity of five or six gallons, they answer the +double purpose of a covering for the head or to contain water. Some +of them are highly ornamented with strands of bear-grass, woven into +figures of various colors, which require great labor; yet they are made +very expeditiously and sold for a trifle. It is for the construction +of these baskets that the bear-grass forms an article of considerable +traffic. It grows only near the snowy region of the high mountains; the +blade, which is two feet long and about three-eighths of an inch wide, +is smooth, strong, and pliant; the young blades particularly, from +their not being exposed to the sun and air, have an appearance of great +neatness, and are generally preferred. Other bags and baskets, not +waterproof, are made of cedar-bark, silk-grass, rushes, flags, and +common coarse sedge, for the use of families. In these manufactures, +as in the ordinary work of the house, the instrument most in use is a +knife, or rather a dagger. The handle of it is small, and has a strong +loop of twine for the thumb, to prevent its being wrested from the band. +On each side is a blade, double-edged and pointed; the longer from nine +to ten inches, the shorter from four to five. This knife is carried +habitually in the hand, sometimes exposed, but mostly, when in company +with strangers, is put under the robe." + +Naturally, all of the Columbia River Indians were found to be expert +in the building and handling of canoes. Here their greatest skill was +employed. And, it may be added, the Indians of the North Pacific coast +to-day are equally adept and skilful. The canoes of the present race of +red men do not essentially differ from those of the tribes described by +Lewis and Clark, and who are now extinct. The Indians then living above +tide-water built canoes of smaller size than those employed by the +nations farther down the river. The canoes of the Tillamooks and other +tribes living on the seacoast were upwards of fifty feet long, and would +carry eight or ten thousand pounds' weight, or twenty-five or thirty +persons. These were constructed from the trunk of a single tree, usually +white cedar. The bow and stern rose much higher than the gunwale, and +were adorned by grotesque figures excellently well carved and fitted +to pedestals cut in the solid wood of the canoe. The same method of +adornment may be seen among the aborigines of Alaska and other regions +of the North Pacific, to-day. The figures are made of small pieces of +wood neatly fitted together by inlaying and mortising, without any spike +of any kind. When one reflects that the Indians seen by Lewis and Clark +constructed their large canoes with very poor tools, it is impossible +to withhold one's admiration of their industry and patience. The journal +says:-- + +"Our admiration of their skill in these curious constructions was +increased by observing the very inadequate implements which they use. +These Indians possess very few axes, and the only tool they employ, from +felling the tree to the delicate workmanship of the images, is a chisel +made of an old file, about an inch or an inch and a half in width. +Even of this, too, they have not learned the proper management; for the +chisel is sometimes fixed in a large block of wood, and, being held in +the right hand, the block is pushed with the left, without the aid of a +mallet. But under all these disadvantages, their canoes, which one +would suppose to be the work of years, are made in a few weeks. A canoe, +however, is very highly prized, being in traffic an article of the +greatest value except a wife, and of equal value with her; so that +a lover generally gives a canoe to the father in exchange for his +daughter. . . . + +"The harmony of their private life is secured by their ignorance +of spirituous liquors, the earliest and most dreadful present which +civilization has given to the other natives of the continent. Although +they have had so much intercourse with whites, they do not appear to +possess any knowledge of those dangerous luxuries; at least they have +never inquired after them, which they probably would have done if once +liquors bad been introduced among them. Indeed, we have not observed any +liquor of intoxicating quality among these or any Indians west of the +Rocky Mountains, the universal beverage being pure water. They, however, +sometimes almost intoxicate themselves by smoking tobacco, of which they +are excessively fond, and the pleasures of which they prolong as much as +possible, by retaining vast quantities at a time, till after circulating +through the lungs and stomach it issues in volumes from the mouth and +nostrils." + +A long period of quiet prevailed in camp after the first of February, +before the final preparations for departure were made. Parties were sent +out every day to hunt, and the campers were able to command a few days' +supply of provision in advance. The flesh of the deer was now very lean +and poor, but that of the elk was growing better and better. It was +estimated by one of the party that they killed, between December +1, 1805, and March 20, 1806, elk to the number of one hundred and +thirty-one, and twenty deer. Some of this meat they smoked for its +better preservation, but most of it was eaten fresh. No record was kept +of the amount of fish consumed by the party; but they were obliged at +times to make fish their sole article of diet. Late in February they +were visited by Comowool, the principal Clatsop chief, who brought them +a sturgeon and quantities of a small fish which had just begun to make +its appearance in the Columbia. This was known as the anchovy, but +oftener as the candle-fish; it is so fat that it may be burned like a +torch, or candle. The journal speaks of Comowool as "by far the most +friendly and decent savage we have seen in this neighborhood." + + + + +Chapter XIX -- With Faces turned Homeward + +The officers of the expedition had decided to begin their homeward march +on the first of April; but a natural impatience induced them to start +a little earlier, and, as a matter of record, it may be said that they +evacuated Fort Clatsop on the 23d of March, 1806. An examination of +their stock of ammunition showed that they had on hand a supply of +powder amply sufficient for their needs when travelling the three +thousand miles of wilderness in which their sole reliance for food must +be the game to be killed. The powder was kept in leaden canisters, and +these, when empty, were used for making balls for muskets and rifles. +Three bushels of salt were collected for their use on the homeward +journey. + +What they needed now most of all was an assortment of small wares and +trinkets with which to trade with the Indians among whom they must +spend so many months before reaching civilization again. They had ample +letters of credit from the Government at Washington, and if they had met +with white traders on the seacoast, they could have bought anything that +money would buy. They had spent nearly all their stock in coming across +the continent. This is Captain Lewis's summary of the goods on hand just +before leaving Fort Clatsop:-- + +"All the small merchandise we possess might be tied up in a couple +of handkerchiefs. The rest of our stock in trade consists of six blue +robes, one scarlet ditto, five robes which we made out of our large +United States flag, a few old clothes trimmed with ribbons, and one +artillerist's uniform coat and hat, which probably Captain Clark will +never wear again. We have to depend entirely upon this meagre outfit for +the purchase of such horses and provisions as it will be in our power to +obtain--a scant dependence, indeed, for such a journey as is before us." + +One of their last acts was to draw up a full list of the members of +the party, and, making several copies of it, to leave these among the +friendly Indians with instructions to give a paper to the first white +men who should arrive in the country. On the back of the paper was +traced the track by which the explorers had come and that by which +they expected to return. This is a copy of one of these important +documents:-- + +"The object of this list is, that through the medium of some civilized +person who may see the same, it may be made known to the informed +world, that the party consisting of the persons whose names are hereunto +annexed, and who were sent out by the government of the U'States in May, +1804, to explore the interior of the Continent of North America, did +penetrate the same by way of the Missouri and Columbia Rivers, to the +discharge of the latter into the Pacific Ocean, where they arrived on +the 14th of November, 1805, and from whence they departed the 23d day of +March, 1806, on their return to the United States by the same rout they +had come out." + +Curiously enough, one of these papers did finally reach the United +States. During the summer of 1806, the brig "Lydia," Captain Hill, +entered the Columbia for the purpose of trading with the natives. From +one of these Captain Hill secured the paper, which he took to +Canton, China, in January, 1807. Thence it was sent to a gentleman in +Philadelphia, having travelled nearly all the way round the world. + +Fort Clatsop, as they called the rude collection of huts in which they +had burrowed all winter, with its rude furniture and shelters, was +formally given to Comowool, the Clatsop chief who had been so kind +to the party. Doubtless the crafty savage had had his eye on this +establishment, knowing that it was to be abandoned in the spring. + +The voyagers left Fort Clatsop about one o'clock in the day, and, after +making sixteen miles up the river, camped for the night. Next day, they +reached an Indian village where they purchased "some wappatoo and a +dog for the invalids." They still had several men on the sick list in +consequence of the hard fare of the winter. The weather was cold and +wet, and wood for fuel was difficult to obtain. In a few days they found +themselves among their old friends, the Skilloots, who had lately been +at war with the Chinooks. There was no direct intercourse between +the two nations as yet, but the Chinooks traded with the Clatsops and +Wahkiacums, and these in turn traded with the Skilloots, and in this way +the two hostile tribes exchanged the articles which they had for those +which they desired. The journal has this to say about the game of an +island on which the explorers tarried for a day or two, in order to dry +their goods and mend their canoes:-- + +"This island, which has received from the Indians the appropriate name +of Elalah (Elallah), or Deer Island, is surrounded on the water-side by +an abundant growth of cottonwood, ash, and willow, while the interior +consists chiefly of prairies interspersed with ponds. These afford +refuge to great numbers of geese, ducks, large swan, sandhill cranes, +a few canvas-backed ducks, and particularly the duckinmallard, the most +abundant of all. There are also great numbers of snakes resembling our +garter-snakes in appearance, and like them not poisonous. Our hunters +brought in three deer, a goose, some ducks, an eagle, and a tiger-cat. +Such is the extreme voracity of the vultures, that they had devoured in +the space of a few hours four of the deer killed this morning; and one +of our men declared that they had besides dragged a large buck about +thirty yards, skinned it, and broken the backbone." + +The vulture here referred to is better known as the California condor, a +great bird of prey which is now so nearly extinct that few specimens +are ever seen, and the eggs command a great price from those who make +collections of such objects. A condor killed by one of the hunters of +the Lewis and Clark expedition measured nine feet and six inches from +tip to tip of its wings, three feet and ten inches from the point of the +bill to the end of the tail, and six inches and a half from the back of +the head to the tip of the beak. Very few of the condors of the Andes +are much larger than this, though one measuring eleven feet from tip to +tip has been reported. + +While camped at Quicksand, or Sandy River, the party learned that food +supplies up the Columbia were scarce. The journal says that the Indians +met here were descending the river in search of food. It adds:-- + +"They told us, that they lived at the Great Rapids; but that the +scarcity of provisions there had induced them to come down, in the hopes +of finding subsistence in the more fertile valley. All the people living +at the Rapids, as well as the nations above them, were in much distress +for want of food, having consumed their winter store of dried fish, and +not expecting the return of the salmon before the next full moon, +which would be on the second of May: this information was not a little +embarrassing. From the Falls to the Chopunnish nation, the plains +afforded neither deer, elk, nor antelope for our subsistence. The +horses were very poor at this season, and the dogs must be in the same +condition, if their food, the dried fish, had failed. Still, it was +obviously inexpedient for us to wait for the return of the salmon, +since in that case we might not reach the Missouri before the ice would +prevent our navigating it. We might, besides, hazard the loss of our +horses, as the Chopunnish, with whom we had left them, would cross the +mountains as early as possible, or about the beginning of May, and take +our horses with them, or suffer them to disperse, in either of which +cases the passage of the mountains will be almost impracticable. We +therefore, after much deliberation, decided to remain where we were +till we could collect meat enough to last us till we should reach the +Chopunnish nation, and to obtain canoes from the natives as we ascended, +either in exchange for our pirogues, or by purchasing them with skins +and merchandise. These canoes, again, we might exchange for horses +with the natives of the plains, till we should obtain enough to travel +altogether by land. On reaching the southeast branch of the Columbia, +four or five men could be sent on to the Chopunnish to have our horses +in readiness; and thus we should have a stock of horses sufficient both +to transport our baggage and supply us with food, as we now perceived +that they would form our only certain dependance for subsistence." + +On the third of April this entry is made:-- + +"A considerable number of Indians crowded about us to-day, many of whom +came from the upper part of the river. These poor wretches confirm +the reports of scarcity among the nations above; which, indeed, their +appearance sufficiently proved, for they seemed almost starved, and +greedily picked the bones and refuse meat thrown away by us. + +"In the evening Captain Clark returned from an excursion. On setting out +yesterday at half-past eleven o'clock, he directed his course along +the south side of the (Columbia) river, where, at the distance of eight +miles, he passed a village of the Nechacohee tribe, belonging to the +Eloot nation. The village itself is small, and being situated behind +Diamond Island, was concealed from our view as we passed both times +along the northern shore. He continued till three o'clock, when he +landed at the single house already mentioned as the only remains of a +village of twenty-four straw huts. Along the shore were great numbers +of small canoes for gathering wappatoo, which were left by the Shahalas, +who visit the place annually. The present inhabitants of the house are +part of the Neerchokioo tribe of the same (Shahala) nation. On entering +one of the apartments of the house, Captain Clark offered several +articles to the Indians in exchange for wappatoo; but they appeared +sullen and ill-humored, and refused to give him any. He therefore sat +down by the fire opposite the men, and taking a port-fire match from his +pocket, threw a small piece of it into the flame; at the same time he +took his pocket-compass, and by means of a magnet, which happened to be +in his inkhorn, made the needle turn round very briskly. The match now +took fire and burned violently, on which the Indians, terrified at this +strange exhibition, immediately brought a quantity of wappatoo and laid +it at his feet, begging him to put out the bad fire, while an old woman +continued to speak with great vehemence, as if praying and imploring +protection. Having received the roots, Captain Clark put up the compass, +and as the match went out of itself tranquillity was restored, though +the women and children still took refuge in their beds and behind the +men. He now paid them for what he had used, and after lighting his pipe +and smoking with them, continued down the river." + +The excursion from which Captain Clark had returned, as noted in this +extract, was up the Multnomah River. As we have already seen, the +explorers missed that stream when they came down the Columbia; and they +had now passed it again unnoticed, owing to the number of straggling +islands that hide its junction with the Columbia. Convinced that a +considerable river must drain the region to the south, Captain Clark +went back alone and penetrating the intricate channels among the +islands, found the mouth of the Multnomah, now better known as the +Willamette. He was surprised to find that the depth of water in the +river was so great that large vessels might enter it. He would have been +much more surprised if he had been told that a large city, the largest +in Oregon, would some day be built on the site of the Indian huts which +he saw. Here Captain Clark found a house occupied by several families +of the Neechecolee nation. Their mansion was two hundred and twenty-six +feet long and was divided into apartments thirty feet square. + +The most important point in this region of the Columbia was named +Wappatoo Island by the explorers. This is a large extent of country +lying between the Willamette and an arm of the Columbia which they +called Wappatoo Inlet, but which is now known as Willamette Slough. +It is twenty miles long and from five to ten miles wide. Here is an +interesting description of the manner of gathering the roots of the +wappatoo, of which we have heard so much in this region of country:-- + +"The chief wealth of this island consists of the numerous ponds in the +interior, abounding with the common arrowhead (sagittaria sagittifolia) +to the root of which is attached a bulb growing beneath it in the mud. +This bulb, to which the Indians give the name of wappatoo,(1) is the +great article of food, and almost the staple article of commerce on the +Columbia. It is never out of season; so that at all times of the year +the valley is frequented by the neighboring Indians who come to gather +it. It is collected chiefly by the women, who employ for the purpose +canoes from ten to fourteen feet in length, about two feet wide and nine +inches deep, and tapering from the middle, where they are about twenty +inches wide. They are sufficient to contain a single person and several +bushels of roots, yet so very light that a woman can carry them with +ease. She takes one of these canoes into a pond where the water is as +high as the breast, and by means of her toes separates from the root +this bulb, which on being freed from the mud rises immediately to the +surface of the water, and is thrown into the canoe. In this manner these +patient females remain in the water for several hours, even in the depth +of winter. This plant is found through the whole extent of the valley in +which we now are, but does not grow on the Columbia farther eastward." + + + (1) In the Chinook jargon "Wappatoo" stands for potato. + + +The natives of this inland region, the explorers found, were larger +and better-shaped than those of the sea-coast, but they were nearly +all afflicted with sore eyes. The loss of one eye was common, and not +infrequently total blindness was observed in men of mature years, while +blindness was almost universal among the old people. The white men +made good use of the eye-water which was among their supplies; it was +gratefully received by the natives and won them friends among the people +they met. On the fifth of April the journal has this entry:-- + +"In the course of his chase yesterday, one of our men (Collins), who +had killed a bear, found the den of another with three cubs in it. He +returned to-day in hopes of finding her, but brought only the cubs, +without being able to see the dam; and on this occasion Drewyer, our +most experienced huntsman, assured us that he had never known a single +instance where a female bear, which had once been disturbed by a hunter +and obliged to leave her young, returned to them again. The young bears +were sold for wappatoo to some of the many Indians who visited us in +parties during the day and behaved very well." + +And on the ninth is this entry:-- + +"The wind having moderated, we reloaded the canoes and set out by seven +o'clock. We stopped to take up the two hunters who left us yesterday, +but were unsuccessful in the chase, and then proceeded to the Wahclellah +village, situated on the north side of the river, about a mile below +Beacon Rock. During the whole of the route from camp we passed along +under high, steep, and rocky sides of the mountains, which now close on +each side of the river, forming stupendous precipices, covered with +fir and white cedar. Down these heights frequently descend the most +beautiful cascades, one of which, a large creek, throws itself over +a perpendicular rock three hundred feet above the water, while other +smaller streams precipitate themselves from a still greater elevation, +and evaporating in a mist, collect again and form a second cascade +before they reach the bottom of the rocks. We stopped to breakfast at +this village. We here found the tomahawk which had been stolen from us +on the fourth of last November. They assured us they had bought it of +the Indians below; but as the latter had already informed us that the +Wahclellahs had such an article, which they had stolen, we made no +difficulty about retaking our property." + +The Columbia along the region through which the expedition was now +passing is a very wild and picturesque stream. The banks are high and +rocky, and some of the precipices to which the journal refers are of +a vast perpendicular height. On the Oregon side of the river are five +cascades such as those which the journal mentions. The most famous and +beautiful of these is known as Multnomah Falls. This cataract has a +total fall of more than six hundred feet, divided into two sections. The +other cascades are the Bridal Veil, the Horsetail, the Latourelle, and +the Oneonta, and all are within a few miles of each other. + +On the ninth of April the voyagers reached the point at which they were +to leave tidewater, fifty-six miles above the mouth of the Multnomah, or +Willamette. They were now at the entrance of the great rapids which are +known as the Cascades of the Columbia, and which occupy a space on the +river about equal to four miles and a half. They were still navigating +the stream with their canoes, camping sometimes on the north side and +sometimes on the south side of the river. This time they camped on the +north side, and during the night lost one of their boats, which got +loose and drifted down to the next village of the Wahclellahs, some of +whom brought it back to the white men's camp and were rewarded for their +honesty by a present of two knives. It was found necessary to make a +portage here, but a long and severe rainstorm set in, and the tents and +the skins used for protecting the baggage were soaked. The journal goes +on with the narrative thus:-- + +We determined to take the canoes first over the portage, in hopes that +by the afternoon the rain would cease, and we might carry our baggage +across without injury. This was immediately begun by almost the whole +party, who in the course of the day dragged four of the canoes to the +head of the rapids, with great difficulty and labor. A guard, consisting +of one sick man and three who had been lamed by accidents, remained with +Captain Lewis (and a cook) to guard the baggage. This precaution +was absolutely necessary to protect it from the Wahclellahs, whom we +discovered to be great thieves, notwithstanding their apparent honesty +in restoring our boat; indeed, so arrogant and intrusive have they +become that nothing but our numbers, we are convinced, saves us from +attack. They crowded about us while we were taking up the boats, and one +of them had the insolence to throw stones down the bank at two of our +men. + +"We now found it necessary to depart from our mild and pacific course of +conduct. On returning to the head of the portage, many of them met our +men and seemed very ill-disposed. Shields had stopped to purchase a dog, +and being separated from the rest of the party, two Indians pushed +him out of the road, and attempted to take the dog from him. He had no +weapon but a long knife, with which he immediately attacked them both, +hoping to put them to death before they had time to draw their arrows; +but as soon as they saw his design they fled into the woods. Soon +afterward we were told by an Indian who spoke Clatsop, which we had +ourselves learned during the winter, that the Wahclellahs had carried +off Captain Lewis' dog to their village below. Three men well armed were +instantly despatched in pursuit of them, with orders to fire if there +was the slightest resistance or hesitation. At the distance of two miles +they came within sight of the thieves, who, finding themselves pursued, +left the dog and made off. We now ordered all the Indians out of our +camp, and explained to them that whoever stole any of our baggage, or +insulted our men, should be instantly shot; a resolution which we were +determined to enforce, as it was now our only means of safety. + +"We were visited during the day by a chief of the Clahclellahs, who +seemed mortified at the behavior of the Indians, and told us that the +persons at the head of their outrages were two very bad men who belonged +to the Wahclellah tribe, but that the nation did not by any means wish +to displease us. This chief seemed very well-disposed, and we had every +reason to believe was much respected by the neighboring Indians. We +therefore gave him a small medal and showed him all the attention in our +power, with which he appeared very much gratified." + +The portage of these rapids was very difficult and tiresome. The total +distance of the first stage was twenty-eight hundred yards along a +narrow way rough with rocks and now slippery with rain. One of the +canoes was lost here by being driven out into the strong current, where +the force of the water was so great that it could not be held by the +men; the frail skiff drifted down the rapids and disappeared. They now +had two canoes and two periogues left, and the loads were divided among +these craft. This increased the difficulties of navigation, and Captain +Lewis crossed over to the south side of the river in search of canoes +to be purchased from the Indians, who lived in a village on that side of +the stream. The narrative continues: + +"The village now consisted of eleven houses, crowded with inhabitants, +and about sixty fighting men. They were very well disposed, and we found +no difficulty in procuring two small canoes, in exchange for two robes +and four elk-skins. He also purchased with deer-skins three dogs,--an +animal which has now become a favorite food, for it is found to be a +strong, healthy diet, preferable to lean deer or elk, and much superior +to horseflesh in any state. With these he proceeded along the south side +of the river, and joined us in the evening." + +Above the rapids the party encountered two tribes of Indians from whom +they endeavored to buy horses, for they were now approaching a point +when they must leave the river and travel altogether by land. One of +these tribes was known as the Weocksockwillacurns, and the other was the +Chilluckittequaws. These jaw-breaking names are commended to those who +think that the Indian names of northern Maine are difficult to handle. +Trees were now growing scarcer, and the wide lowlands spread out before +the explorers stretched to the base of the Bitter Root Mountains +without trees, but covered with luxuriant grass and herbage. After being +confined so long to the thick forests and mountains of the seacoast, the +party found this prospect very exhilarating, notwithstanding the absence +of forests and thickets. The climate, too, was much more agreeable than +that to which they had lately been accustomed, being dry and pure. + + + + +Chapter XX -- The Last Stage of the Columbia + +On the thirteenth of April the party reached the series of falls and +rapids which they called the Long Narrows. At the point reached the +river is confined, for a space of about fourteen miles, to narrow +channels and rocky falls. The Long Narrows are now known as the Dalles. +The word "dalles" is French, and signifies flagstones, such as are used +for sidewalks. Many of the rocks in these narrows are nearly flat on +top, and even the precipitous banks look like walls of rock. At the +upper end of the rapids, or dalles, is Celilo City, and at the lower end +is Dalles City, sometimes known as "The Dalles." Both of these places +are in Oregon; the total fall of the water from Celilo to the Dalles +is over eighty feet. Navigation of these rapids is impossible. As the +explorers had no further use for their pirogues, they broke them up for +fuel. The merchandise was laboriously carried around on the river bank. +They were able to buy four horses from the Skilloots for which they paid +well in goods. It was now nearly time for the salmon to begin to run, +and under date of April 19 the journal has this entry:-- + +"The whole village was filled with rejoicing to-day at having caught a +single salmon, which was considered as the harbinger of vast quantities +in four or five days. In order to hasten their arrival the Indians, +according to custom, dressed the fish and cut it into small pieces, +one of which was given to each child in the village. In the good humor +excited by this occurrence they parted, though reluctantly, with four +other horses, for which we gave them two kettles, reserving only a +single small one for a mess of eight men. Unluckily, however, we lost +one of the horses by the negligence of the person to whose charge he +was committed. The rest were, therefore, hobbled and tied; but as the +nations here do not understand gelding, all the horses but one were +stallions; this being the season when they are most vicious, we had +great difficulty in managing them, and were obliged to keep watch over +them all night. . . . + +"As it was obviously our interest to preserve the goodwill of these +people, we passed over several small thefts which they committed, but +this morning we learnt that six tomahawks and a knife had been stolen +during the night. We addressed ourselves to the chief, who seemed angry +with his people, and made a harangue to them; but we did not recover +the articles, and soon afterward two of our spoons were missing. We +therefore ordered them all from our camp, threatening to beat severely +any one detected in purloining. This harshness irritated them so much +that they left us in an ill-humor, and we therefore kept on our guard +against any insult. Besides this knavery, the faithlessness of the +people is intolerable; frequently, after receiving goods in exchange for +a horse, they return in a few hours and insist on revoking the bargain +or receiving some additional value. We discovered, too, that the horse +which was missing yesterday had been gambled away by the fellow from +whom we had purchased him, to a man of a different nation, who had +carried him off. We succeeded in buying two more horses, two dogs, and +some chappelell, and also exchanged a couple of elk-skins for a gun +belonging to the chief. . . . One of the canoes, for which the Indians +would give us very little, was cut up for fuel; two others, together +with some elk-skins and pieces of old iron, we bartered for beads, and +the remaining two small ones were despatched early next morning, with +all the baggage which could not be carried on horseback. We had intended +setting out at the same time, but one of our horses broke loose during +the night, and we were under the necessity of sending several men in +search of him. In the mean time, the Indians, who were always on the +alert, stole a tomahawk, which we could not recover, though several of +them were searched; and another fellow was detected in carrying off +a piece of iron, and kicked out of camp; upon which Captain Lewis, +addressing them, told them he was not afraid to fight them, for, if he +chose, he could easily put them all to death, and burn their village, +but that he did not wish to treat them ill if they kept from stealing; +and that, although, if he could discover who had the tomahawks, he would +take away their horses, yet he would rather lose the property altogether +than take the horse of an innocent man. The chiefs were present at this +harangue, hung their heads, and made no reply. + +"At ten o'clock the men returned with the horse, and soon after an +Indian, who had promised to go with us as far as the Chopunnish, came +with two horses, one of which he politely offered to assist in carrying +our baggage. We therefore loaded nine horses, and, giving the tenth to +Bratton, who was still too sick to walk, at about ten o'clock left the +village of these disagreeable people." + +At an Indian village which they reached soon after leaving that of the +disagreeable Skilloots, they found the fellow who had gambled away +the horse that he had sold. Being faced with punishment, he agreed to +replace the animal he had stolen with another, and a very good horse was +brought to satisfy the white men, who were now determined to pursue a +rigid course with the thievish Indians among whom they found themselves. +These people, the Eneeshurs, were stingy, inhospitable, and overbearing +in their ways. Nothing but the formidable numbers of the white men saved +them from insult, pillage, and even murder. While they were here, one of +the horses belonging to the party broke loose and ran towards the Indian +village. A buffalo robe attached to him fell off and was gathered in by +one of the Eneeshurs. Captain Lewis, whose patience was now exhausted, +set out, determined to burn the village unless the Indians restored the +robe. Fortunately, however, one of his men found the missing article +hidden in a hut, and so any act of violent reprisal was not necessary. + +So scarce had now become fuel, the party were obliged to buy what little +wood they required for their single cooking-fire. They could not afford +a fire to keep them warm, and, as the nights were cold and they lay +without any shelter, they were most uncomfortable, although the days +were warm. They were now travelling along the Columbia River, using +their horses for a part of their luggage, and towing the canoes with the +remainder of the stuff. On the twenty-third of April they arrived at the +mouth of Rock Creek, on the Columbia, a considerable stream which they +missed as they passed this point on their way down, October 21. Here +they met a company of Indians called the Wahhowpum, with whom they +traded pewter buttons, strips of tin and twisted wire for roots, dogs, +and fuel. These people were waiting for the arrival of the salmon. The +journal says:-- + +"After arranging the camp we assembled all the warriors, and having +smoked with them, the violins were produced, and some of the men danced. +This civility was returned by the Indians in a style of dancing, such as +we had not yet seen. The spectators formed a circle round the dancers, +who, with their robes drawn tightly round the shoulders, and divided +into parties of five or six men, perform by crossing in a line from one +side of the circle to the other. All the parties, performers as well as +spectators, sing, and after proceeding in this way for some time, the +spectators join, and the whole concludes by a promiscuous dance and +song. Having finished, the natives retired at our request, after +promising to barter horses with us in the morning." + +They bought three horses of these Indians and hired three more from a +Chopunnish who was to accompany them. The journal adds:-- + +"The natives also had promised to take our canoes in exchange for +horses; but when they found that we were resolved on travelling by land +they refused giving us anything, in hopes that we would be forced to +leave them. Disgusted at this conduct, we determined rather to cut them +to pieces than suffer these people to enjoy them, and actually began +to split them, on which they gave us several strands of beads for each +canoe. We had now a sufficient number of horses to carry our baggage, +and therefore proceeded wholly by land." + +Next day the party camped near a tribe of Indians known as the +Pishquitpah. These people had never seen white men before, and they +flocked in great numbers around the strangers, but were very civil and +hospitable, although their curiosity was rather embarrassing. These +people were famous hunters, and both men and women were excellent +riders. They were now travelling on the south side of the river, in +Oregon, and, after leaving the Pishquitpahs, they encountered the +"Wollawollahs," as they called them. These Indians are now known as the +Walla Walla tribe, and their name is given to a river, a town, and a +fort of the United States. In several of the Indian dialects walla means +"running water," and when the word is repeated, it diminishes the size +of the object; so that Walla Walla means "little running water." Near +here the explorers passed the mouth of a river which they called the +Youmalolam; it is a curious example of the difficulty of rendering +Indian names into English. The stream is now known as the Umatilla. +Here they found some old acquaintances of whom the journal has this +account:-- + +"Soon after we were joined by seven Wollawollahs, among whom we +recognized a chief by the name of Yellept, who had visited us on the +nineteenth of October, when we gave him a medal with the promise of a +larger one on our return. He appeared very much pleased at seeing us +again, and invited us to remain at his village three or four days, +during which he would supply us with the only food they had, and furnish +us with horses for our journey. After the cold, inhospitable treatment +we have lately received, this kind offer was peculiarly acceptable; and +after a hasty meal we accompanied him to his village, six miles above, +situated on the edge of the low country, about twelve miles below the +mouth of Lewis' River. + +"Immediately on our arrival Yellept, who proved to be a man of much +influence, not only in his own but in the neighboring nations, collected +the inhabitants, and having made a harangue, the purport of which was +to induce the nations to treat us hospitably, he set them an example +by bringing himself an armful of wood, and a platter containing three +roasted mullets. They immediately assented to one part, at least, of the +recommendation, by furnishing us with an abundance of the only sort of +fuel they employ, the stems of shrubs growing in the plains. We then +purchased four dogs, on which we supped heartily, having been on short +allowance for two days past. When we were disposed to sleep, the Indians +retired immediately on our request, and indeed, uniformly conducted +themselves with great propriety. These people live on roots, which +are very abundant in the plains, and catch a few salmon-trout; but at +present they seem to subsist chiefly on a species of mullet, weighing +from one to three pounds. They informed us that opposite the village +there was a route which led to the mouth of the Kooskooskee, on the +south side of Lewis' River; that the road itself was good, and passed +over a level country well supplied with water and grass; and that we +should meet with plenty of deer and antelope. We knew that a road in +that direction would shorten the distance at least eighty miles; and as +the report of our guide was confirmed by Yellept and other Indians, we +did not hesitate to adopt this route: they added, however, that there +were no houses, nor permanent Indian residences on the road and that it +would therefore be prudent not to trust wholly to our guns, but to lay +in a stock of provisions. + +"Taking their advice, therefore, we next day purchased ten dogs. While +the trade for these was being conducted by our men, Yellept brought a +fine white horse, and presented him to Captain Clark, expressing at the +same time a wish to have a kettle; but, on being informed that we had +already disposed of the last kettle we could spare, he said he would be +content with any present we chose to make him in return. Captain Clark +thereupon gave him his sword, for which the chief had before expressed a +desire, adding one hundred balls, some powder, and other small articles, +with which he appeared perfectly satisfied. We were now anxious to +depart, and requested Yellept to lend us canoes for the purpose of +crossing the river; but he would not listen to any proposal of the kind. +He wished us to remain for two or three days; but, at all events, would +not consent to our going to-day, for he had already sent to invite his +neighbors, the Chimnapoos, to come down this evening and join his people +in a dance for our amusement. We urged in vain that, by setting out +sooner, we would the earlier return with the articles they desired; +for a day, he observed, would make but little difference. We at length +mentioned that, as there was no wind it was now the best time to cross +the river, and we would merely take the horses over and return to sleep +at their village. To this he assented; we then crossed with our horses, +and having hobbled them, returned to their camp. + +"Fortunately, there was among these Wollwaollahs a prisoner belonging +to a tribe of Shoshonee or Snake Indians, residing to the south of the +Multnomah and visiting occasionally the heads of Wollawollah Creek. +Our Shoshonee woman, Sacajawea, though she belonged to a tribe near the +Missouri, spoke the same language as this prisoner; by their means we +were able to explain ourselves to the Indians, and answer all their +inquiries with respect to ourselves and the object of our journey. Our +conversation inspired them with much confidence, and they soon brought +several sick persons, for whom they requested our assistance. We +splintered (splinted) the broken arm of one, gave some relief to +another, whose knee was contracted by rheumatism, and administered what +we thought beneficial for ulcers and eruptions of the skin on various +parts of the body which are very common disorders among them. But our +most valuable medicine was eye-water, which we distributed, and which, +indeed, they required very much. + +"A little before sunset the Chimnapoos, amounting to one hundred men +and a few women, came to the village, and, joining the Wollawollahs, who +were about the same number of men, formed themselves in a circle round +our camp, and waited very patiently till our men were disposed to dance, +which they did for about an hour, to the music of the violin. They then +requested the Indians to dance. With this they readily complied; and the +whole assemblage, amounting, with the women and children of the village, +to several hundred, stood up, and sang and danced at the same time. +The exercise was not, indeed, very violent nor very graceful; for the +greater part of them were formed into a solid column, round a kind +of hollow square, stood on the same place, and merely jumped up at +intervals, to keep time to the music. Some, however, of the more active +warriors entered the square and danced round it sideways, and some of +our men joined in with them, to the great satisfaction of the Indians. +The dance continued till ten o'clock." + +By the thirtieth of April the expedition was equipped with twenty-three +horses, most of which were young and excellent animals; but many of them +were afflicted with sore backs. All Indians are cruel masters and +hard riders, and their saddles are so rudely made that it is almost +impossible for an Indian's horse to be free from scars; yet they +continue to ride after the animal's back is scarified in the most +horrible manner. + +The expedition was now in what we know as Walla Walla County, +Washington, and they were travelling along the river Walla Walla, +leaving the Columbia, which has here a general direction of northerly. +The course of the party was northeast, their objective point being that +where Waitesburg is now built, near the junction of Coppie Creek and +the Touchet River. They were in a region of wood in plenty, and for the +first time since leaving the Long Narrows, or Dalles, they had as much +fuel as they needed. On the Touchet, accordingly, they camped for the +sake of having a comfortable night; the nights were cold, and a good +fire by which to sleep was an attraction not easily resisted. The +journal, April 30, has this entry:-- + +"We were soon supplied by Drewyer with a beaver and an otter, of which +we took only a part of the beaver, and gave the rest to the Indians. +The otter is a favorite food, though much inferior, at least in our +estimation, to the dog, which they will not eat. The horse is seldom +eaten, and never except when absolute necessity compels them, as the +only alternative to dying of hunger. This fastidiousness does not, +however, seem to proceed so much from any dislike to the food, as from +attachment to the animal itself; for many of them eat very heartily of +the horse-beef which we give them." + +On the first day of May, having travelled forty miles from their camp +near the mouth of the Walla Walla, they camped between two points at +which are now situated the two towns of Prescott, on the south, and +Waitesburg, on the north. Their journal says:-- + +"We had scarcely encamped when three young men came up from the +Wollawollah village, with a steel-trap which had inadvertently been +left behind, and which they had come a whole day's journey in order to +restore. This act of integrity was the more pleasing, because, though +very rare among Indians, it corresponded perfectly with the general +behavior of the Wollawollahs, among whom we had lost carelessly several +knives, which were always returned as soon as found. We may, indeed, +justly affirm, that of all the Indians whom we had met since leaving the +United States, the Wollawollahs were the most hospitable, honest, and +sincere." + + + + +Chapter XXI -- Overland east of the Columbia + +It was now early in May, and the expedition, travelling eastward along +Touchet Creek, were in the country of their friends, the Chopunnish. On +the third, they were agreeably surprised to meet Weahkootnut, whom +they had named Bighorn from the fact that he wore a horn of that animal +suspended from his left arm. This man was the first chief of a large +band of Chopunnish, and when the expedition passed that way, on their +path to the Pacific, the last autumn, he was very obliging and useful to +them, guiding them down the Snake, or Lewis River. He had now heard +that the white men were on their return, and he had come over across the +hills to meet them. As we may suppose, the meeting was very cordial, and +Weahkootnut turned back with his white friends and accompanied them to +the mouth of the Kooskooskee, a stream of which our readers have heard +before; it is now known as the Clearwater. + +Captain Lewis told Weahkootnut that his people were hungry, their +slender stock of provisions being about exhausted. The chief told them +that they would soon come to a Chopunnish house where they could get +food. But the journal has this entry:-- + +"We found the house which Weahkootnut had mentioned, where we halted +for breakfast. It contained six families, so miserably poor that all +we could obtain from them were two lean dogs and a few large cakes of +half-cured bread, made of a root resembling the sweet potato, of all +which we contrived to form a kind of soup. The soil of the plain is +good, but it has no timber. The range of southwest mountains is about +fifteen miles above us, but continues to lower, and is still covered +with snow to its base. After giving passage to Lewis' (Snake) River, +near their northeastern extremity, they terminate in a high level plain +between that river and the Kooskooskee. The salmon not having yet called +them to the rivers, the greater part of the Chopunnish are now dispersed +in villages through this plain, for the purpose of collecting quamash +and cows, which here grow in great abundance, the soil being extremely +fertile, in many places covered with long-leaved pine, larch, and +balsam-fir, which contribute to render it less thirsty than the open, +unsheltered plains." + +By the word "cows," in this sentence, we must understand that the +story-teller meant cowas, a root eaten by the Indians and white +explorers in that distant region. It is a knobbed, irregular root, and +when cooked resembles the ginseng. At this place the party met some of +the Indians whom Captain Clark had treated for slight diseases, when +they passed that way, the previous autumn. They bad sounded the praises +of the white men and their medicine, and others were now waiting to +be treated in the same manner. The Indians were glad to pay for their +treatment, and the white men were not sorry to find this easy method of +adding to their stock of food, which was very scanty at this time. The +journal sagely adds, "We cautiously abstain from giving them any +but harmless medicines; and as we cannot possibly do harm, our +prescriptions, though unsanctioned by the faculty, may be useful, and +are entitled to some remuneration." Very famous and accomplished doctors +might say the same thing of their practice. But the explorers did +not meet with pleasant acquaintances only; in the very next entry is +recorded this disagreeable incident: + +"Four miles beyond this house we came to another large one, containing +ten families, where we halted and made our dinner on two dogs and +a small quantity of roots, which we did not procure without much +difficulty. Whilst we were eating, an Indian standing by, looking with +great derision at our eating dogs, threw a poor half-starved puppy +almost into Captain Lewis' plate, laughing heartily at the humor of it. +Captain Lewis took up the animal and flung it with great force into the +fellow's face; and seizing his tomahawk, threatened to cut him down if +he dared to repeat such insolence. He immediately withdrew, apparently +much mortified, and we continued our repast of dog very quietly. Here we +met our old Chopunnish guide, with his family; and soon afterward one +of our horses, which had been separated from the rest in charge of +Twisted-hair, and had been in this neighborhood for several weeks, was +caught and restored to us." + +Later in that day the party came to a Chopunnish house which was one +hundred and fifty-six feet long and fifteen feet wide. Thirty families +were living in this big house, each family having its fire by itself +burning on the earthen floor, along through the middle of the great +structure. The journal says:-- + +"We arrived very hungry and weary, but could not purchase any +provisions, except a small quantity of the roots and bread of the +cows. They had, however, heard of our medical skill, and made many +applications for assistance, but we refused to do anything unless they +gave us either dogs or horses to eat. We soon had nearly fifty patients. +A chief brought his wife with an abscess on her back, and promised +to furnish us with a horse to-morrow if we would relieve her. Captain +Clark, therefore, opened the abscess, introduced a tent, and dressed it +with basilicon. We also prepared and distributed some doses of flour of +sulphur and cream of tartar, with directions for its use. For these we +obtained several dogs, but too poor for use, and therefore postponed +our medical operations till the morning. In the mean time a number of +Indians, besides the residents of the village, gathered about us or +camped in the woody bottom of the creek." + +It will be recollected that when the expedition was in this region (on +the Kooskooskee), during the previous September, on their way westward, +they left their horses with Chief Twisted-hair, travelling overland +from that point. They were now looking for that chief, and the journal +says:-- + +"About two o'clock we collected our horses and set out, accompanied by +Weahkoonut, with ten or twelve men and a man who said he was the brother +of Twisted-hair. At four miles we came to a single house of three +families, but could not procure provisions of any kind; and five miles +further we halted for the night near another house, built like the rest, +of sticks, mats, and dried hay, and containing six families. It was now +so difficult to procure anything to eat that our chief dependence was +on the horse which we received yesterday for medicine; but to our great +disappointment he broke the rope by which he was confined, made his +escape, and left us supperless in the rain." + +Next day they met an Indian who brought them two canisters of powder, +which they at once knew to be some of that which they had buried last +autumn. The Indian said that his dog had dug it up in the meadow by the +river, and he had restored it to its rightful owners. As a reward for +his honesty, the captains gave him a flint and steel for striking fire; +and they regretted that their own poverty prevented them from being more +liberal to the man. + +They observed that the Rocky Mountains, now in full sight, were still +covered with snow, and the prospect of crossing them was not very rosy. +Their Chopunnish guide told them that it would be impossible to cross +the mountains before the next full moon, which would be about the first +of June. The journal adds: "To us, who are desirous of reaching the +plains of the Missouri--if for no other reason, for the purpose of +enjoying a good meal--this intelligence was by no means welcome, and +gave no relish to the remainder of the horse killed at Colter's Creek, +which formed our supper, as part of which had already been our dinner." +Next day, accordingly, the hunters turned out early in the morning, and +before noon returned with four deer and a duck, which, with the +remains of horse-beef on hand, gave them a much more plentiful stock +of provisions than had lately fallen to their lot. During the previous +winter, they were told, the Indians suffered very much for lack of food, +game of all sorts being scarce. They were forced to boil and eat the +moss growing on the trees, and they cut down the pine-trees for the sake +of the small nut to be found in the pine-cones. Here they were met by +an old friend, Neeshnepahkeeook and the Shoshonee, who had acted as +interpreter for them. The journal says:-- + +"We gave Neeshnepahkeeook and his people some of our game and +horse-beef, besides the entrails of the deer, and four fawns which we +found inside of two of them. They did not eat any of them perfectly raw, +but the entrails had very little cooking; the fawns were boiled whole, +and the hide, hair, and entrails all consumed. The Shoshonee was +offended at not having as much venison as he wished, and refused to +interpret; but as we took no notice of him, he became very officious in +the course of a few hours, and made many efforts to reinstate himself in +our favor. The brother of Twisted-hair, and Neeshnepahkeeook, now drew +a sketch, which we preserved, of all the waters west of the Rocky +Mountains." + +They now met Twisted-hair, in whose care they had left their horses and +saddles the previous fall, and this was the result of their inquiries:-- + +"Between three and four o'clock in the afternoon we set out, in company +with Neeshuepahkeeook and other Indians, the brother of Twisted-hair +having left us. Our route was up a high steep hill to a level plain +with little wood, through which we passed in a direction parallel to the +(Kooskooskee) River for four miles, when we met Twisted-hair and six of +his people. To this chief we had confided our horses and a part of +our saddles last autumn, and we therefore formed very unfavorable +conjectures on finding that he received us with great coldness. Shortly +afterward he began to speak in a very loud, angry manner, and was +answered by Neeshnepahkeeook. We now discovered that a violent quarrel +had arisen between these chiefs, on the subject, as we afterward +understood, of our horses. But as we could not learn the cause, and were +desirous of terminating the dispute, we interposed, and told them we +should go on to the first water and camp. We therefore set out, followed +by all the Indians, and having reached, at two miles' distance, a small +stream running to the right, we camped with the two chiefs and their +little bands, forming separate camps at a distance from each other. They +all appeared to be in an ill humor; and as we had already heard reports +that the Indians had discovered and carried off our saddles, and that +the horses were very much scattered, we began to be uneasy, lest there +should be too much foundation for the report. We were therefore anxious +to reconcile the two chiefs as soon as possible, and desired the +Shoshonee to interpret for us while we attempted a mediation, but be +peremptorily refused to speak a word. He observed that it was a quarrel +between the two chiefs, and he had therefore no right to interfere; nor +could all our representations, that by merely repeating what we said he +could not possibly be considered as meddling between the chiefs, induce +him to take any part in it. + +"Soon afterward Drewyer returned from hunting, and was sent to invite +Twisted-hair to come and smoke with us. He accepted the invitation, and +as we were smoking the pipe over our fire he informed us that according +to his promise on leaving us at the falls of the Columbia, he had +collected our horses and taken charge of them as soon as he reached +home. But about this time Neeshnepahkeeook and Turmachemootoolt +(Broken-arm), who, as we passed, were on a war-party against the +Shoshonees on the south branch of Lewis' River, returned; and becoming +jealous of him, because the horses had been confided to his care, +were constantly quarrelling with him. At length, being an old man and +unwilling to live in perpetual dispute with these two chiefs, he had +given up the care of the horses, which had consequently become very +much scattered. The greater part of them were, however, still in the +neighborhood; some in the forks between the Chopunnish and Kooskooskee, +and three or four at the village of Broken Arm, about half a day's march +higher up the river. He added, that on the rise of the river in the +spring, the earth had fallen from the door of the cache, and exposed the +saddles, some of which had probably been lost; but that, as soon as he +was acquainted with the situation of them, he had them buried in another +deposit, where they now were. He promised that, if we would stay the +next day at his house, a few miles distant, he would collect such of the +horses as were in the neighborhood, and send his young men for those in +the forks, over the Kooskooskee. He moreover advised us to visit Broken +Arm, who was a chief of great eminence, and he would himself guide us to +his dwelling. + +"We told him that we would follow his advice in every respect; that we +had confided our horses to his care, and expected he would deliver +them to us, on which we should cheerfully give him the two guns and the +ammunition we had promised him. With this he seemed very much pleased, +and declared he would use every exertion to restore the horses. We now +sent for Neesbnepahkeeook, or Cut Nose, and, after smoking for some +time, began by expressing to the two chiefs our regret at seeing a +misunderstanding between them. Neeshnepahkeeook replied that Twisted +Hair was a bad old man, and wore two faces; for, instead of taking care +of our horses, he had suffered his young men to hunt with them, so that +they had been very much injured, and it was for this reason that Broken +Arm and himself had forbidden him to use them. Twisted Hair made +no reply to this speech, and we then told Neeshnepahkeeook of our +arrangement for the next day. He appeared to be very well satisfied, and +said he would himself go with us to Broken Arm, who expected to see us, +and had TWO BAD HORSES FOR US; by which expression we understood that +Broken Arm intended to make us a present of two horses." + +Next day, the party reached the house of Twisted-hair, and began to +look for their horses and saddles. The journal gives this account of the +search:-- + +"Late in the afternoon, Twisted-hair returned with about half the +saddles we had left in the autumn, and some powder and lead which were +buried at the same place. Soon after, the Indians brought us twenty-one +of our horses, the greater part of which were in excellent order, though +some had not yet recovered from hard usage, and three had sore backs. +We were, however, very glad to procure them in any condition. Several +Indians came down from the village of Tunnachemootoolt and passed the +night with us. Cut-nose and Twisted-hair seem now perfectly reconciled, +for they both slept in the house of the latter. The man who had imposed +himself upon us as a brother of Twisted-hair also came and renewed his +advances, but we now found that he was an impertinent, proud fellow, of +no respectability in the nation, and we therefore felt no inclination to +cultivate his intimacy. Our camp was in an open plain, and soon became +very uncomfortable, for the wind was high and cold, and the rain and +hail, which began about seven o'clock, changed in two hours to a heavy +fall of snow, which continued till after six o'clock (May 10th), the +next morning, when it ceased, after covering the ground eight inches +deep and leaving the air keen and cold. We soon collected our horses, +and after a scanty breakfast of roots set out on a course S. 35'0 E." + +They were now following the general course of the Kooskooskee, or +Clearwater, as the stream is called, and their route lay in what is now +Nez Perce County, Idaho. They have passed the site of the present city +of Lewiston, named for Captain Lewis. They have arrived in a region +inhabited by the friendly Chopunnish, or Nez Perce, several villages +of which nation were scattered around the camp of the white men. The +narrative says: + +"We soon collected the men of consideration, and after smoking, +explained how destitute we were of provisions. The chief spoke to the +people, who immediately brought two bushels of dried quamash-roots, some +cakes of the roots of cows, and a dried salmon-trout; we thanked them +for this supply, but observed that, not being accustomed to live on +roots alone, we feared that such diet might make our men sick, and +therefore proposed to exchange one of our good horses, which was rather +poor, for one that was fatter, and which we might kill. The hospitality +of the chief was offended at the idea of an exchange; he observed +that his people had an abundance of young horses, and that if we +were disposed to use that food we might have as many as we wanted. +Accordingly, they soon gave us two fat young horses, without asking +anything in return, an act of liberal hospitality much greater than any +we have witnessed since crossing the Rocky Mountains, if it be not in +fact the only really hospitable treatment we have received in this part +of the world. We killed one of the horses, and then telling the natives +that we were fatigued and hungry, and that as soon as we were refreshed +we would communicate freely with them, began to prepare our repast. + +"During this time a principal chief, called Hohastillpilp, came from +his village, about six miles distant, with a party of fifty men, for the +purpose of visiting us. We invited him into our circle, and he alighted +and smoked with us, while his retinue, with five elegant horses, +continued mounted at a short distance. While this was going on, the +chief had a large leathern tent spread for us, and desired that we +would make it our home so long as we remained at his village. We removed +there, and having made a fire, and cooked our supper of horseflesh +and roots, collected all the distinguished men present, and spent +the evening in making known who we were, what were the objects of +our journey, and in answering their inquiries. To each of the chiefs +Tunnachemootoolt and Hohastillpilp we gave a small medal, explaining +their use and importance as honorary distinctions both among the whites +and the red men. Our men were well pleased at once more having made a +hearty meal. They had generally been in the habit of crowding into the +houses of the Indians, to purchase provisions on the best terms they +could; for the inhospitality of the country was such, that often, in +the extreme of hunger, they were obliged to treat the natives with +but little ceremony; but this Twisted Hair had told us was very +disagreeable. Finding that these people are so kind and liberal, we +ordered our men to treat them with the greatest respect, and not +to throng round their fires, so that they now agree perfectly well +together. After the council the Indians felt no disposition to retire, +and our tent was filled with them all night." + +As the expedition was here in a populous country, among many bands of +Indians, it was thought wise to have a powwow with the head men +and explain to them what were the intentions of the United States +Government. But, owing to the crooked course which their talk must needs +take, it was very difficult to learn if the Indians finally understood +what was said. Here is the journal's account of the way in which the +powwow was conducted:-- + +"We collected the chiefs and warriors, and having drawn a map of +the relative situation of our country on a mat with a piece of coal, +detailed the nature and power of the American nation, its desire to +preserve harmony between all its red brethren, and its intention of +establishing trading-houses for their relief and support. It was not +without difficulty, nor till after nearly half the day was spent, that +we were able to convey all this information to the Chopunnish, much of +which might have been lost or distorted in its circuitous route through +a variety of languages; for in the first place, we spoke in English +to one of our men, who translated it into French to Chaboneau; he +interpreted it to his wife in the Minnetaree language; she then put it +into Shoshonee, and the young Shoshonee prisoner explained it to the +Chopunnish in their own dialect. At last we succeeded in communicating +the impression we wished, and then adjourned the council; after which +we amused them by showing the wonders of the compass, spy-glass, magnet, +watch, and air-gun, each of which attracted its share of admiration." + +The simple-minded Indians, who seemed to think that the white men could +heal all manner of diseases, crowded around them next day, begging for +medicines and treatment. These were freely given, eye-water being most +in demand. There was a general medical powwow. The journal adds:-- + +"Shortly after, the chiefs and warriors held a council among themselves, +to decide on an answer to our speech, and the result was, as we were +informed, that they had full confidence in what we had told them, and +were resolved to follow our advice. This determination having been made, +the principal chief, Tunnachemootoolt, took a quantity of flour of +the roots of cow-weed (cowas), and going round to all the kettles and +baskets in which his people were cooking, thickened the soup into a +kind of mush. He then began an harangue, setting forth the result of the +deliberations among the chiefs, and after exhorting them to unanimity, +concluded with an invitation to all who acquiesced in the proceedings +of the council to come and eat; while those who were of a different +mind were requested to show their dissent by not partaking of the feast. +During this animated harangue, the women, who were probably uneasy at +the prospect of forming this proposed new connection with strangers, +tore their hair, and wrung their hands with the greatest appearance of +distress. But the concluding appeal of the orator effectually stopped +the mouths of every malecontent, and the proceedings were ratified, and +the mush devoured with the most zealous unanimity. + +"The chiefs and warriors then came in a body to visit us as we were +seated near our tent; and at their instance, two young men, one of whom +was a son of Tunnachemootoolt, and the other the youth whose father +had been killed by the Pahkees, presented to us each a fine horse. We +invited the chiefs to be seated, and gave every one of them a flag, a +pound of powder, and fifty balls, and a present of the same kind to the +young men from whom we had received the horses. They then invited us +into the tent, and said that they now wished to answer what we had +told them yesterday, but that many of their people were at that moment +waiting in great pain for our medical assistance." + +It was agreed, therefore, that Captain Clark, who seems to have been +their favorite physician, should attend to the sick and lame, while +Captain Lewis should conduct a council with the chiefs and listen to +what they had to say. The upshot of the powwow was that the Chopunnish +said they had sent three of their warriors with a pipe to make peace +with the Shoshonees, last summer, as they had been advised to do by the +white men. The Shoshonees, unmindful of the sacredness of this +embassy, had killed the young warriors and had invited the battle which +immediately took place, in which the Chopunnish killed forty-two of the +Shoshonees, to get even for the wanton killing of their three young men. +The white men now wanted some of the Chopunnish to accompany them to +the plains of the Missouri, but the Indians were not willing to go until +they were assured that they would not be waylaid and slain by their +enemies of the other side of the mountains. The Chopunnish would think +over the proposal that some of their young men should go over the range +with the white men; a decision on this point should be reached before +the white men left the country. Anyhow, the white men might be sure +that the Indians would do their best to oblige their visitors. Their +conclusion was, "For, although we are poor, our hearts are good." The +story of this conference thus concludes:-- + +"As soon as this speech was concluded, Captain Lewis replied at some +length; with this they appeared highly gratified, and after smoking the +pipe, made us a present of another fat horse for food. We, in turn, gave +Broken-arm a phial of eye-water, with directions to wash the eyes of all +who should apply for it; and as we promised to fill it again when it +was exhausted, he seemed very much pleased with our liberality. To +Twisted-hair, who had last night collected six more horses, we gave a +gun, one hundred balls, and two pounds of powder, and told him he should +have the same quantity when we received the remainder of our horses. In +the course of the day three more of them were brought in, and a fresh +exchange of small presents put the Indians in excellent humor. On our +expressing a wish to cross the river and form a camp, in order to hunt +and fish till the snows had melted, they recommended a position a few +miles distant, and promised to furnish us to-morrow with a canoe to +cross. We invited Twisted-hair to settle near our camp, for he has +several young sons, one of whom we hope to engage as a guide, and he +promised to do so. Having now settled all their affairs, the Indians +divided themselves into two parties, and began to play the game of +hiding a bone, already described as common to all the natives of this +country, which they continued playing for beads and other ornaments." + +As there was so dismal a prospect for crossing the snow-covered +mountains at this season of the year, the captains of the expedition +resolved to establish a camp and remain until the season should be +further advanced. Accordingly, a spot on the north side of the river, +recommended to them by the Indians, was selected, and a move across +the stream was made. A single canoe was borrowed for the transit of the +baggage, and the horses were driven in to swim across, and the passage +was accomplished without loss. The camp was built on the site of an old +Indian house, in a circle about thirty yards in diameter, near the river +and in an advantageous position. As soon as the party were encamped, the +two Chopunnish chiefs came down to the opposite bank, and, with twelve +of their nation, began to sing. This was the custom of these people, +being a token of their friendship on such occasions. The captains sent +a canoe over for the chiefs, and, after smoking for some time, +Hohastillpilp presented Captain with a fine gray horse which he had +brought over for that purpose, and he was perfectly satisfied to receive +in return a handkerchief, two hundred balls, and four pounds of powder. + +Here is some curious information concerning the bears which they found +in this region. It must be borne in mind that they were still west of +the Bitter Root Mountains:-- + +"The hunters killed some pheasants, two squirrels, and a male and a +female bear, the first of which was large, fat, and of a bay color; the +second meagre, grizzly, and of smaller size. They were of the species +(Ursus horribilis) common to the upper part of the Missouri, and might +well be termed the variegated bear, for they are found occasionally of +a black, grizzly, brown, or red color. There is every reason to believe +them to be of precisely the same species. Those of different colors are +killed together, as in the case of these two, and as we found the white +and bay associated together on the Missouri; and some nearly white were +seen in this neighborhood by the hunters. Indeed, it is not common to +find any two bears of the same color; and if the difference in color +were to constitute a distinction of species, the number would increase +to almost twenty. Soon afterward the hunters killed a female bear with +two cubs. The mother was black, with a considerable intermixture of +white hairs and a white spot on the breast. One of the cubs was jet +black, and the other of a light reddish-brown or bay color. The hair +of these variegated bears is much finer, longer, and more abundant than +that of the common black bear; but the most striking differences between +them are that the former are larger and have longer tusks, and longer as +well as blunter talons; that they prey more on other animals; that they +lie neither so long nor so closely in winter quarters; and that they +never climb a tree, however closely pressed by the hunters. These +variegated bears, though specifically the same with those we met on the +Missouri, are by no means so ferocious; probably because the scarcity +of game and the habit of living on roots may have weaned them from the +practices of attacking and devouring animals. Still, however, they are +not so passive as the common black bear, which is also to be found here; +for they have already fought with our hunters, though with less fury +than those on the other side of the mountains. + +"A large part of the meat we gave to the Indians, to whom it was a real +luxury, as they scarcely taste flesh once in a month. They immediately +prepared a large fire of dried wood, on which was thrown a number of +smooth stones from the river. As soon as the fire went down and the +stones were heated, they were laid next to each other in a level +position, and covered with a quantity of pine branches, on which were +placed flitches of the meat, and then boughs and flesh alternately for +several courses, leaving a thick layer of pine on the top. On this heap +they then poured a small quantity of water, and covered the whole with +earth to the depth of four inches. After remaining in this state for +about three hours, the meat was taken off, and was really more tender +than that which we had boiled or roasted, though the strong flavor of +the pine rendered it disagreeable to our palates. This repast gave them +much satisfaction; for, though they sometimes kill the black bear, they +attack very reluctantly the fierce variegated bear; and never except +when they can pursue him on horseback over the plains, and shoot him +with arrows." + + + + +Chapter XXII -- Camping with the Nez Perces + +Soon after they had fixed their camp, the explorers bade farewell to +their good friend Tunnachemootoolt and his young men, who returned +to their homes farther down the river. Others of the Nez Perce, or +Chopunnish, nation visited them, and the strangers were interested in +watching the Indians preparing for their hunt. As they were to hunt the +deer, they had the head, horns, and hide of that animal so prepared +that when it was placed on the head and body of a hunter, it gave a very +deceptive idea of a deer; the hunter could move the head of the decoy +so that it looked like a deer feeding, and the suspicious animals were +lured within range of the Indians' bow and arrow. + +On the sixteenth of May, Hohastillpilp and his young men also left the +white men's camp and returned to their own village. The hunters of the +party did not meet with much luck in their quest for game, only one deer +and a few pheasants being brought in for several days. The party were +fed on roots and herbs, a species of onion being much prized by them. +Bad weather confined them to their camp, and a common entry in their +journal refers to their having slept all night in a pool of water formed +by the falling rain; their tent-cover was a worn-out leathern affair +no longer capable of shedding the rain. While it rained in the meadows +where they were camped, they could see the snow covering the higher +plains above them; on those plains the snow was more than a foot deep, +and yet the plants and shrubs seemed to thrive in the midst of the snow. +On the mountains the snow was several feet in depth. The journalist +says: "So that within twenty miles of our camp we observe the rigors +of winter cold, the cool air of spring, and the oppressive heat of +midsummer." They kept a shrewd lookout for the possibilities of future +occupation of the land by white men; and, writing here of country and +its character, the journalist says: "In short, this district affords +many advantages to settlers, and if properly cultivated, would yield +every object necessary for the comfort and subsistence of civilized +man." But in their wildest dreams, Captains Lewis and Clark could not +have foreseen that in that identical region thrifty settlements of white +men should flourish and that the time would come when the scanty remnant +of the Chopunnish, whom we now call Nez Perces, would be gathered on a +reservation near their camping-place. But both of these things have come +to pass. + +In describing the dress of the Chopunnish, or Nez Perces, the +journal says that tippets, or collars, were worn by the men. "That +of Hohastillpilp," says the journal, "was formed of human scalps and +adorned with the thumbs and fingers of several men slain by him in +battle." And yet the journal immediately adds: "The Chopunnish are among +the most amiable men we have seen. Their character is placid and gentle, +rarely moved to passion, yet not often enlivened by gayety." In short, +the Indians were amiable savages; and it is a savage trait to love to +destroy one's enemies. + +Here is an entry in the journal of May 19 which will give the reader +some notion of the privations and the pursuits of the party while shut +up in camp for weary weeks in the early summer of 1806:-- + +"After a cold, rainy night, during a greater part of which we lay in the +water, the weather became fair; we then sent some men to a village above +us, on the opposite side, to purchase some roots. They carried with +them for this purpose a small collection of awls, knitting-pins, and +armbands, with which they obtained several bushels of the root of cows, +and some bread of the same material. They were followed, too, by a train +of invalids from the village, who came to ask for our assistance. The +men were generally afflicted with sore eyes; but the women had besides +this a variety of other disorders, chiefly rheumatic, a violent pain and +weakness in the loins, which is a common complaint among them; one of +them seemed much dejected, and as we thought, from the account of her +disease, hysterical. We gave her thirty drops of laudanum, and after +administering eye-water, rubbing the rheumatic patients with volatile +liniment, and giving cathartics to others, they all thought themselves +much relieved and returned highly satisfied to the village. We were +fortunate enough to retake one of the horses on which we (Captain Lewis) +had crossed the Rocky Mountains in the autumn, and which had become +almost wild since that time." + +A day or two later, the journal has this significant entry: "On +parcelling out the stores, the stock of each man was found to be only +one awl, and one knitting-pin, half an ounce of vermilion, two needles, +a few skeins of thread, and about a yard of ribbon--a slender means of +bartering for our subsistence; but the men have been so much accustomed +to privations that now neither the want of meat nor the scanty funds +of the party excites the least anxiety among them." To add to their +discomfort, there was a great deal of sickness in the camp, owing to the +low diet of the men. Sacajawea's baby was ill with mumps and teething, +and it is suggested that the two captains would have been obliged to +"walk the floor all night," if there had been any floor to walk on; as +it was, they were deprived of their nightly rest. Here is an example +of what the doctors would call heroic treatment by Captain Clark, who +conducted all such experiments:-- + +"With one of the men (Bratton) we have ventured an experiment of a very +robust nature. He has been for some time sick, but has now recovered his +flesh, eats heartily, and digests well, but has so great a weakness in +the loins that he cannot walk or even sit upright without extreme pain. +After we had in vain exhausted the resources of our art, one of the +hunters mentioned that he had known persons in similar situations to +be restored by violent sweats, and at the request of the patient, we +permitted the remedy to be applied. For this purpose a hole about four +feet deep and three in diameter was dug in the earth, and heated well +by a large fire in the bottom of it. The fire was then taken out, and +an arch formed over the hole by means of willow-poles, and covered +with several blankets so as to make a perfect awning. The patient being +stripped naked, was seated under this on a beach, with a piece of board +for his feet, and with a jug of water sprinkled the bottom and sides +of the hole, so as to keep up as hot a steam as he could bear. +After remaining twenty minutes in this situation, he was taken out, +immediately plunged twice in cold water, and brought back to the hole, +where he resumed the vapor bath. During all this time he drank copiously +a strong infusion of horse-mint, which was used as a substitute for +seneca-root, which our informant said he had seen employed on these +occasions, but of which there is none in this country. At the end +of three-quarters of an hour he was again withdrawn from the hole, +carefully wrapped, and suffered to cool gradually. This operation was +performed yesterday; this morning he walked about and is nearly free +from pain. About eleven o'clock a canoe arrived with three Indians, one +of whom was the poor creature who had lost the use of his limbs, and +for whose recovery the natives seem very anxious, as he is a chief of +considerable rank among them. His situation is beyond the reach of our +skill. He complains of no pain in any peculiar limb, and we therefore +think his disorder cannot be rheumatic, and his limbs would have been +more diminished if his disease had been a paralytic affection. We had +already ascribed it to his diet of roots, and had recommended his living +on fish and flesh, and using the cold bath every morning, with a dose of +cream of tartar or flowers of sulphur every third day." + +It is gratifying to be able to record the fact that Bratton and the +Indian (who was treated in the same manner) actually recovered from +their malady. The journal says of the Indian that his restoration +was "wonderful." This is not too strong a word to use under the +circumstances, for the chief had been helpless for nearly three years, +and yet he was able to get about and take care of himself after he had +been treated by Captain (otherwise Doctor) Clark. Two of his men met +with a serious disaster about this time; going across the river to trade +with some Indians, their boat was stove and went to the bottom, carrying +with it three blankets, a blanket-coat, and their scanty stock of +merchandise, all of which was utterly lost. Another disaster, which +happened next day, is thus recorded:-- + +"Two of our men, who had been up the river to trade with the Indians, +returned quite unsuccessful. Nearly opposite the village, their horse +fell with his load down a steep cliff into the river, across which he +swam. An Indian on the opposite side drove him back to them; but +in crossing most of the articles were lost and the paint melted. +Understanding their intentions, the Indians attempted to come over to +them, but having no canoe, were obliged to use a raft, which struck on a +rock, upset, and the whole store of roots and bread were destroyed. +This failure completely exhausted our stock of merchandise; but the +remembrance of what we suffered from cold and hunger during the passage +of the Rocky Mountains makes us anxious to increase our means of +subsistence and comfort, since we have again to encounter the same +inconvenience." + +But the ingenuity of the explorers was equal to this emergency. Having +observed that the Indians were very fond of brass buttons, which they +fastened to their garments as ornaments, and not for the useful purpose +for which buttons are made, the men now proceeded to cut from their +shabby United States uniforms those desired articles, and thus formed a +new fund for trading purposes. To these they added some eye-water, some +basilicon, and a few small tin boxes in which phosphorus had been kept. +Basilicon, of which mention is frequently made in the journal, was an +ointment composed of black pitch, white wax, resin, and olive oil; it +was esteemed as a sovereign remedy for all diseases requiring an outward +application. With these valuables two men were sent out to trade with +the Indians, on the second day of June, and they returned with three +bushels of eatable roots and some cowas bread. Later in that day, a +party that had been sent down the river (Lewis') in quest of food, +returned with a goodly supply of roots and seventeen salmon. These +fish, although partly spoiled by the long journey home, gave great +satisfaction to the hungry adventurers, for they were the promise of a +plenty to come when the salmon should ascend the rivers that make into +the Columbia. At this time we find the following interesting story in +the journal of the expedition:-- + +"We had lately heard, also, that some Indians, residing at a +considerable distance, on the south side of the Kooskooskee, were in +possession of two tomahawks, one of which had been left at our camp on +Moscheto Creek, and the other had been stolen while we were with the +Chopunnish in the autumn. This last we were anxious to obtain, in order +to give it to the relations of our unfortunate companion, Sergeant +Floyd,(1) to whom it once belonged. We therefore sent Drewyer, with the +two chiefs Neeshnepahkeeook and Hohastillpilp (who had returned to us) +to demand it. On their arrival, they found that the present possessor +of it, who had purchased it of the thief, was at the point of death; and +his relations were unwilling to give it up, as they wished to bury it in +the grave with the deceased. The influence of Neeshnepahkeeook, however, +at length prevailed; and they consented to surrender the tomahawk on +receiving two strands of beads and a handkerchief from Drewyer, and +from each of the chiefs a horse, to be killed at the funeral of their +kinsman, according to the custom of the country." + + + (1) See page 23. + + +The Chopunnish chiefs now gave their final answer to the two captains +who had requested guides from them. The chiefs said that they could not +accompany the party, but later in the summer they might cross the great +divide and spend the next winter on the headwaters of the Missouri. At +present, they could only promise that some of their young men should go +with the whites; these had not been selected, but they would be sent on +after the party, if the two captains insisted on starting now. This +was not very encouraging, for they had depended upon the Indians for +guidance over the exceedingly difficult and even dangerous passages of +the mountains. Accordingly, it was resolved that, while waiting on the +motions of the Indians, the party might as well make a visit to Quamash +flats, where they could lay in a stock of provisions for their arduous +journey. It is not certain which of the several Quamash flats mentioned +in the history of the expedition is here referred to; but it is likely +that the open glade in which Captain Clark first struck the low country +of the west is here meant. It was here that he met the Indian boys +hiding in the grass, and from here he led the expedition out of the +wilderness. For "quamash" read "camass," an edible root much prized by +the Nez Perces then and now. + +While they lingered at their camp, they were visited by several bands of +friendly Indians. The explorers traded horses with their visitors, +and, with what they already had, they now found their band to number +sixty-five, all told. Having finished their trading, they invited the +Indians to take part in the games of prisoners' base and foot-racing; in +the latter game the Indians were very expert, being able to distance +the fleetest runner of the white men's party. At night, the games +were concluded by a dance. The account of the expedition says that the +captains were desirous of encouraging these exercises before they +should begin the passage over the mountains, "as several of the men are +becoming lazy from inaction." + +On the tenth of June the party set out for Quamash flats, each man well +mounted and leading a spare horse which carried a small load. To their +dismay, they found that their good friends, the Chopunnish, unwilling to +part with them, were bound to accompany them to the hunting-grounds. The +Indians would naturally expect to share in the hunt and to be provided +for by the white men. The party halted there only until the sixth of +June, and then, collecting their horses, set out through what proved to +be a very difficult trail up the creek on which they were camped, in +a northeasterly direction. There was still a quantity of snow on the +ground, although this was in shady places and hollows. Vegetation was +rank, and the dogtooth violet, honeysuckle, blue-bell, and columbine +were in blossom. The pale blue flowers of the quamash gave to the level +country the appearance of a blue lake. Striking Hungry Creek, which +Captain Clark had very appropriately named when he passed that way, the +previous September, they followed it up to a mountain for about three +miles, when they found themselves enveloped in snow; their limbs were +benumbed, and the snow, from twelve to fifteen feet deep, so paralyzed +their feet that further progress was impossible. Here the journal should +be quoted:-- + +"We halted at the sight of this new difficulty. We already knew that to +wait till the snows of the mountains had dissolved, so as to enable us +to distinguish the road, would defeat our design of returning to the +United States this season. We now found also that as the snow bore our +horses very well, travelling was infinitely easier than it was last +fall, when the rocks and fallen timber had so much obstructed our march. +But it would require five days to reach the fish-weirs at the mouth of +Colt (-killed) Creek, even if we were able to follow the proper ridges +of the mountains; and the danger of missing our direction is exceedingly +great while every track is covered with snow. During these five days, +too, we have no chance of finding either grass or underwood for our +horses, the snow being so deep. To proceed, therefore, under such +circumstances, would be to hazard our being bewildered in the mountains, +and to insure the loss of our horses; even should we be so fortunate as +to escape with our lives, we might be obliged to abandon all our papers +and collections. It was therefore decided not to venture any further; +to deposit here all the baggage and provisions for which we had no +immediate use; and, reserving only subsistence for a few days, to return +while our horses were yet strong to some spot where we might live +by hunting, till a guide could be procured to conduct us across the +mountains. Our baggage was placed on scaffolds and carefully covered, as +were also the instruments and papers, which we thought it safer to leave +than to risk over the roads and creeks by which we came." + +There was nothing left to do but to return to Hungry Creek. Finding a +scanty supply of grass, they camped under most depressing circumstances; +their outlook now was the passing of four or five days in the midst +of snows from ten to fifteen feet deep, with no guide, no road, and +no forage. In this emergency, two men were sent back to the Chopunnish +country to hurry up the Indians who had promised to accompany them over +the mountains; and, to insure a guide, these men were authorized to +offer a rifle as a reward for any one who would undertake the task. For +the present, it was thought best to return to Quamash flats. + + + + +Chapter XXIII -- Crossing the Bitter Root Mountains + +Disasters many kept pace with the unhappy explorers on their way back +to Quamash flats after their rebuff at the base of the Bitter Root +Mountains. One of the horses fell down a rough and rocky place, carrying +his rider with him; but fortunately neither horse nor man was killed. +Next, a man, sent ahead to cut down the brush that blocked the path, cut +himself badly on the inside of his thigh and bled copiously. The hunters +sent out for game returned empty-handed. The fishermen caught no fish, +but broke the two Indian gigs, or contrivances for catching fish, with +which they had been provided. The stock of salt had given out, the +bulk of their supply having been left on the mountain. Several large +mushrooms were brought in by Cruzatte, but these were eaten without +pepper, salt, or any kind of grease,--"a very tasteless, insipid food," +as the journal says. To crown all, the mosquitoes were pestilential in +their numbers and venom. + +Nevertheless, the leaders of the expedition were determined to press on +and pass the Bitter Root Mountains as soon as a slight rest at Quamash +flats should be had. If they should tarry until the snows melted from +the trail, they would be too late to reach the United States that winter +and would be compelled to pass the next winter at some camp high up on +the Missouri, as they had passed one winter at Fort Mandan, on their way +out. This is the course of argument which Captain Lewis and Clark took +to persuade each other as to the best way out of their difficulties:-- + +"The snows have formed a hard, coarse bed without crust, on which the +horses walk safely without slipping; the chief difficulty, therefore, is +to find the road. In this we may be assisted by the circumstance that, +though generally ten feet in depth, the snow has been thrown off by the +thick and spreading branches of the trees, and from round the trunk; +while the warmth of the trunk itself, acquired by the reflection of the +sun, or communicated by natural heat of the earth, which is never frozen +under these masses, has dissolved the snow so much that immediately at +the roots its depth is not more than one or two feet. We therefore hope +that the marks of the baggage rubbing against the trees may still be +perceived; and we have decided, in case the guide cannot be procured, +that one of us will take three or four of our most expert woodsmen, +several of our best horses, and an ample supply of provisions, go on two +days' journey in advance, and endeavor to trace the route by the marks +of the Indian baggage on the trees, which we would then mark more +distinctly with a tomahawk. When they should have reached two days' +journey beyond Hungry Creek, two of the men were to be sent back to +apprise the rest of their success, and if necessary to cause them to +delay there; lest, by advancing too soon, they should be forced to halt +where no food could be obtained for the horses. If the traces of the +baggage be too indistinct, the whole party is to return to Hungry Creek, +and we will then attempt the passage by ascending the main southwest +branch of Lewis' River through the country of the Shoshonees, over to +Madison or Gallatin River. On that route, the Chopunnish inform us, +there is a passage not obstructed by snow at this period of the year." + +On their return to Quamash flats the party met two Indians who, after +some parley, agreed to pilot them over the mountains; these camped where +they were, and the party went on to the flats, having exacted a promise +from the Indians that they would wait there two nights for the white men +to come along. When the party reached their old camp, they found that +one of their hunters had killed a deer, which was a welcome addition +to their otherwise scanty supper. Next day, the hunters met with +astonishing luck, bringing into camp eight deer and three bears. Four of +the men were directed to go to the camp of the two Indians, and if these +were bent on going on, to accompany them and so mark, or blaze, the +trees that the rest of the party would have no difficulty in finding the +way, later on. + +Meanwhile, the men who had been sent back for guides returned, bringing +with them the pleasing information that three Indians whom they brought +with them had consented to guide the party to the great falls of the +Missouri, for the pay of two guns. Accordingly, once more (June 26), +they set out for the mountains, travelling for the third time in twelve +days the route between Quamash flats and the Bitter Root range. For the +second time they ran up against a barrier of snow. They measured the +depth of the snow at the place where they had left their luggage at +their previous repulse and found it to be ten feet and ten inches deep; +and it had sunk four feet since they had been turned back at this point. +Pressing on, after they reached their old camp, they found a bare spot +on the side of the mountain where there was a little grass for their +horses; and there they camped for the night. They were fortunate in +having Indian guides with them; and the journal says:-- + +"The marks on the trees, which had been our chief dependence, are much +fewer and more difficult to be distinguished than we had supposed. But +our guides traverse this trackless region with a kind of instinctive +sagacity; they never hesitate, they are never embarrassed; and so +undeviating is their step, that wherever the snow has disappeared, for +even a hundred paces, we find the summer road. With their aid the snow +is scarcely a disadvantage; for though we are often obliged to slip +down, yet the fallen timber and the rocks, which are now covered, were +much more troublesome when we passed in the autumn. Travelling is indeed +comparatively pleasant, as well as more rapid, the snow being hard and +coarse, without a crust, and perfectly hard enough to prevent the horses +sinking more than two or three inches. After the sun has been on it for +some hours it becomes softer than it is early in the morning; yet they +are almost always able to get a sure foothold." + +On the twenty-ninth of June the party were well out of the snows in +which they had been imprisoned, although they were by no means over the +mountain barrier that had been climbed so painfully during the past few +days. Here they observed the tracks of two barefooted Indians who had +evidently been fleeing from their enemies, the Pahkees. These signs +disturbed the Indian guides, for they at once said that the tracks were +made by their friends, the Ootlashoots, and that the Pahkees would +also cut them (the guides) off on their return from the trip over the +mountains. On the evening of the day above mentioned, the party camped +at the warm springs which fall into Traveller's-rest Creek, a point +now well known to the explorers, who had passed that way before. Of the +springs the journal says:-- + +"These warm springs are situated at the foot of a hill on the north side +of Traveller's-rest Creek, which is ten yards wide at this place. They +issue from the bottoms, and through the interstices of a gray freestone +rock, which rises in irregular masses round their lower side. The +principal spring, which the Indians have formed into a bath by stopping +the run with stone and pebbles, is about the same temperature as the +warmest bath used at the hot springs in Virginia. On trying, Captain +Lewis could with difficulty remain in it nineteen minutes, and then was +affected with a profuse perspiration. The two other springs are much +hotter, the temperature being equal to that of the warmest of the hot +springs in Virginia. Our men, as well as the Indians, amused themselves +with going into the bath; the latter, according to their universal +custom, going first into the hot bath, where they remain as long as they +can bear the heat, then plunging into the creek, which is now of an icy +coldness, and repeating this operation several times, but always ending +with the warm bath." + +Traveller's-rest Creek, it will be recollected, is on the summit of the +Bitter Root Mountains, and the expedition had consequently passed from +Idaho into Montana, as these States now exist on the map; but they were +still on the Pacific side of the Great Divide, or the backbone of +the continent. Much game was seen in this region, and after reaching +Traveller's-rest Creek, the hunters killed six deer; great numbers of +elk and bighorn were also seen in this vicinity. On the thirtieth of +July the party were at their old camp of September 9 and 10, 1805, +having made one hundred and fifty-six miles from Quamash flats to the +mouth of the creek where they now camped. Here a plan to divide and +subdivide the party was made out as follows:-- + +"Captain Lewis, with nine men, is to pursue the most direct route to the +falls of the Missouri, where three of his party (Thompson, Goodrich, and +McNeal) are to be left to prepare carriages for transporting the baggage +and canoes across the portage. With the remaining six, he will ascend +Maria's River to explore the country and ascertain whether any branch +of it reaches as far north as latitude 50'0, after which he will descend +that river to its mouth. The rest of the men will accompany Captain +Clark to the head of Jefferson River, which Sergeant Ordway and a party +of nine men will descend, with the canoes and other articles deposited +there. Captain Clark's party, which will then be reduced to ten men and +Sacajawea, will proceed to the Yellowstone, at its nearest approach to +the Three Forks of the Missouri. There he will build canoes, go down +that river with seven of his party, and wait at its mouth till the rest +of the party join him. Sergeant Pryor, with two others, will then take +the horses by land to the Mandans. From that nation he will go to the +British posts on the Assiniboin with a letter to Mr. Alexander Henry, +to procure his endeavors to prevail on some of the Sioux chiefs to +accompany him to the city of Washington. . . . + +"The Indians who had accompanied us intended leaving us in order to seek +their friends, the Ootlashoots; but we prevailed on them to accompany +Captain Lewis a part of his route, so as to show him the shortest road +to the Missouri, and in the mean time amused them with conversation and +running races, on foot and with horses, in both of which they proved +themselves hardy, athletic, and active. To the chief Captain Lewis gave +a small medal and a gun, as a reward for having guided us across the +mountains; in return the customary civility of exchanging names passed +between them, by which the former acquired the title of Yomekollick, of +White Bearskin Unfolded." + + + + +Chapter XXIV -- The Expedition Subdivided + +On the third of July, accordingly, Captain Lewis, with nine of his men +and five Indians, proceeded down the valley lying between the Rocky +and the Bitter Root ranges of mountains, his general course being due +northwest of Clark's fork of the Columbia River. Crossing several small +streams that make into this river, they finally reached and crossed the +Missoula River from west to east, below the confluence of the St. Mary's +and Hell-gate rivers, or creeks; for these streams hardly deserve the +name of rivers. The party camped for the night within a few miles of the +site of the present city of Missoula, Montana. Here they were forced to +part from their good friends and allies, the Indians, who had crossed +the range with them. These men were afraid that they would be cut off by +their foes, the Pahkees, and they wanted to find and join some band +of the Indian nation with whom they were on terms of friendship. The +journal gives this account of the parting:-- + +"We now smoked a farewell pipe with our estimable companions, who +expressed every emotion of regret at parting with us; which they felt +the more, because they did not conceal their fears of our being cut off +by the Pahkees. We also gave them a shirt, a handkerchief, and a small +quantity of ammunition. The meat which they received from us was dried +and left at this place, as a store during the homeward journey. This +circumstance confirms our belief that there is no route along Clark's +River to the Columbian plains so near or so good as that by which we +came; for, though these people mean to go for several days' journey +down that river, to look for the Shalees (Ootlashoots), yet they intend +returning home by the same pass of the mountains through which they have +conducted us. This route is also used by all the nations whom we know +west of the mountains who are in the habit of visiting the plains of +the Missouri; while on the other side, all the war-paths of the +Pahkees which fall into this valley of Clark's River concentre at +Traveller's-rest, beyond which these people have never ventured to the +west." + +During the next day or two, Captain Lewis kept on the same general +course through a well-watered country, the ground gradually rising as he +approached the base of the mountains. Tracks of Indians, supposed to +be Pahkees, became more numerous and fresh. On the seventh of July, the +little company went through the famous pass of the Rocky Mountains, now +properly named for the leaders of the expedition. Here is the journal's +account of their finding the Lewis and Clark Pass:-- + +"At the distance of twelve miles we left the river, or rather the +creek, and having for four miles crossed two ridges in a direction north +fifteen degrees east, again struck to the right, proceeding through +a narrow bottom covered with low willows and grass, and abundantly +supplied with both deer and beaver. After travelling seven miles we +reached the foot of a ridge, which we ascended in a direction north +forty-five degrees east, through a low gap of easy ascent from the +westward; and, on descending it, were delighted at discovering that this +was the dividing ridge between the waters of the Columbia and those of +the Missouri. From this gap Fort Mountain is about twenty miles in a +northeastern direction. We now wound through the hills and mountains, +passing several rivulets which ran to the right, and at the distance +of nine miles from the gap encamped, having made thirty-two miles. We +procured some beaver, and this morning saw tracks of buffalo, from which +it appears that those animals do sometimes penetrate a short distance +among the mountains." + +Next day the party found themselves in clover, so to speak. Game was +plenty, and, as their object now was to accumulate meat for the three +men who were to be left at the falls (and who were not hunters), they +resolved to strike the Medicine, or Sun, River and hunt down its banks. +On that river the journal, July 10, has this to say:-- + +"In the plains are great quantities of two species of prickly-pear now +in bloom. Gooseberries of the common red kind are in abundance and just +beginning to ripen, but there are no currants. The river has now widened +to one hundred yards; it is deep, crowded with islands, and in many +parts rapid. At the distance of seventeen miles, the timber disappears +totally from the river-bottoms. About this part of the river, the wind, +which had blown on our backs, and constantly put the elk on their guard, +shifted round; we then shot three of them and a brown bear. Captain +Lewis halted to skin them, while two of the men took the pack-horses +forward to seek for a camp. It was nine o'clock before he overtook them, +at the distance of seven miles, in the first grove of cottonwood. They +had been pursued as they came along by a very large bear, on which they +were afraid to fire, lest their horses, being unaccustomed to the gun, +might take fright and throw them. This circumstance reminds us of +the ferocity of these animals, when we were last near this place, and +admonishes us to be very cautious. We saw vast numbers of buffalo below +us, which kept up a dreadful bellowing during the night. With all our +exertions we were unable to advance more than twenty-four miles, owing +to the mire through which we are obliged to travel, in consequence of +the rain." + +The Sun, or Medicine, River empties into the Missouri just above the +great falls of that stream; and near here, opposite White Bear Islands, +the expedition had deposited some of their property in a cache dug +near the river bank, when they passed that way, a year before. On the +thirteenth of the month, having reached their old camping-ground here, +the party set to work making boat-gear and preparing to leave their +comrades in camp well fixed for their stay. The journal adds:-- + +"On opening the cache, we found the bearskins entirely destroyed by the +water, which in a flood of the river had penetrated to them. All the +specimens of plants, too, were unfortunately lost: the chart of the +Missouri, however, still remained unhurt, and several articles contained +in trunks and boxes had suffered but little injury; but a vial of +laudanum had lost its stopper, and the liquid had run into a drawer +of medicines, which it spoiled beyond recovery. The mosquitoes were +so troublesome that it was impossible even to write without a mosquito +bier. The buffalo were leaving us fast, on their way to the southeast." + +One of the party met with an amusing adventure here, which is thus +described:-- + +"At night M'Neal, who had been sent in the morning to examine the cache +at the lower end of the portage, returned; but had been prevented from +reaching that place by a singular adventure. Just as he arrived near +Willow run, he approached a thicket of brush in which was a white bear, +which he did not discover till he was within ten feet of him. His horse +started, and wheeling suddenly round, threw M'Neal almost immediately +under the bear, which started up instantly. Finding the bear raising +himself on his hind feet to attack him, he struck him on the head with +the butt end of his musket; the blow was so violent that it broke the +breech of the musket and knocked the bear to the ground. Before he +recovered M'Neal, seeing a willow-tree close by, sprang up, and there +remained while the bear closely guarded the foot of the tree until late +in the afternoon. He then went off; M'Neal being released came down, +and having found his horse, which had strayed off to the distance of +two miles, returned to camp. These animals are, indeed, of a most +extraordinary ferocity, and it is matter of wonder that in all our +encounters we have had the good fortune to escape. We are now +troubled with another enemy, not quite so dangerous, though even more +disagreeable-these are the mosquitoes, who now infest us in such myriads +that we frequently get them into our throats when breathing, and the dog +even howls with the torture they occasion." + +The intention of Captain Lewis was to reach the river sometimes known as +Maria's, and sometimes as Marais, or swamp. This stream rises near the +boundary between Montana and the British possessions, and flows into the +Missouri, where the modern town of Ophir is built. The men left at the +great falls were to dig up the canoes and baggage that had been cached +there the previous year, and be ready to carry around the portage of +the falls the stuff that would be brought from the two forks of the +Jefferson, later on, by Sergeant Ordway and his party. It will be +recollected that this stuff had also been cached at the forks of the +Jefferson, the year before. The two parties, thus united, were to go +down to the entrance of Maria's River into the Missouri, and Captain +Lewis expected to join them there by the fifth of August; if he failed +to meet them by that time, they were to go on down the river and meet +Captain Clark at the mouth of the Yellowstone. This explanation is +needed to the proper understanding of the narrative that follows; for we +now have to keep track of three parties of the explorers. + +Captain Lewis and his men, having travelled northwest about twenty miles +from the great falls of the Missouri, struck the trail of a wounded +buffalo. They were dismayed by the sight, for that assured them that +there were Indians in the vicinity; and the most natural thing to expect +was that these were Blackfeet, or Minnetarees; both of these tribes are +vicious and rascally people, and they would not hesitate to attack a +small party and rob them of their guns, if they thought themselves able +to get away with them. + +They were now in the midst of vast herds of buffalo, so numerous that +the whole number seemed one immense herd. Hanging on the flanks were +many wolves; hares and antelope were also abundant. On the fourth day +out, Captain Lewis struck the north fork of Maria's River, now known as +Cut-bank River, in the northwest corner of Montana. He was desirous +of following up the stream, to ascertain, if possible, whether its +fountain-head was below, or above, the boundary between the United +States and the British possessions. Bad weather and an accident to +his chronometer prevented his accomplishing his purpose, and, on the +twenty-sixth of July, he turned reluctantly back, giving the name of +Cape Disappointment to his last camping-place. Later in that day, +as they were travelling down the main stream (Maria's River), they +encountered the Indians whom they had hoped to avoid. Let us read the +story as it is told in the journal of the party:-- + +"At the distance of three miles we ascended the hills close to the +river-side, while Drewyer pursued the valley of the river on the +opposite side. But scarcely had Captain Lewis reached the high plain +when he saw, about a mile on his left, a collection of about thirty +horses. He immediately halted, and by the aid of his spy-glass +discovered that one-half of the horses were saddled, and that on the +eminence above the horses several Indians were looking down toward +the river, probably at Drewyer. This was a most unwelcome sight. Their +probable numbers rendered any contest with them of doubtful issue; to +attempt to escape would only invite pursuit, and our horses were so bad +that we must certainly be overtaken; besides which, Drewyer could not +yet be aware that the Indians were near, and if we ran he would most +probably be sacrificed. We therefore determined to make the most of our +situation, and advance toward them in a friendly manner. The flag which +we had brought in case of any such accident was therefore displayed, and +we continued slowly our march toward them. Their whole attention was so +engaged by Drewyer that they did not immediately discover us. As soon +as they did see us, they appeared to be much alarmed and ran about in +confusion; some of them came down the hill and drove their horses within +gunshot of the eminence, to which they then returned, as if to await +our arrival. When we came within a quarter of a mile, one of the Indians +mounted and rode at full speed to receive us; but when within a hundred +paces of us, he halted. Captain Lewis, who had alighted to receive him, +held out his hand and beckoned to him to approach; he only looked at +us for some time, and then, without saying a word, returned to his +companions with as much haste as he had advanced. The whole party now +descended the hill and rode toward us. As yet we saw only eight, but +presumed that there must be more behind us, as there were several horses +saddled. We however advanced, and Captain Lewis now told his two men +that he believed these were the Minnetarees of Fort de Prairie, who, +from their infamous character, would in all probability attempt to +rob us; but being determined to die rather than lose his papers and +instruments, he intended to resist to the last extremity, and advised +them to do the same, and to be on the alert should there be any +disposition to attack us. When the two parties came within a hundred +yards of each other, all the Indians, except one, halted. Captain Lewis +therefore ordered his two men to halt while he advanced, and after +shaking hands with the Indian, went on and did the same with the others +in the rear, while the Indian himself shook hands with the two men. They +all now came up; and after alighting, the Indians asked to smoke with +us. Captain Lewis, who was very anxious for Drewyer's safety, told them +that the man who had gone down the river had the pipe, and requested +that as they had seen him, one of them would accompany R. Fields, to +bring him back. To this they assented, and Fields went with a young man +in search of Drewyer." + +Captain Lewis now asked them by signs if they were Minnetarees of the +north, and he was sorry to be told in reply that they were; he knew +them to be a bad lot. When asked if they had any chief among them, they +pointed out three. The captain did not believe them, but, in order to +keep on good terms with them, he gave to one a flag, to another a medal, +and to the third a handkerchief. At Captain Lewis' suggestion, the +Indians and the white men camped together, and in the course of the +evening the red men told the captain that they were part of a big +band of their tribe, or nation. The rest of the tribe, they said, were +hunting further up the river, and were then in camp near the foot of the +Rocky Mountains. The captain, in return, told them that his party had +come from the great lake where the sun sets, and that he was in hopes +that he could induce the Minnetarees to live in peace with their +neighbors and come and trade at the posts that would be established in +their country by and by. He offered them ten horses and some tobacco if +they would accompany his party down the river below the great falls. To +this they made no reply. Being still suspicious of these sullen guests, +Captain Lewis made his dispositions for the night, with orders for the +sentry on duty to rouse all hands if the Indians should attempt to steal +anything in the night. Next morning trouble began. Says the journal:-- + +"At sunrise, the Indians got up and crowded around the fire near which +J. Fields, who was then on watch, had carelessly left his rifle, near +the head of his brother, who was still asleep. One of the Indians +slipped behind him, and, unperceived, took his brother's and his own +rifle, while at the same time two others seized those of Drewyer and +Captain Lewis. As soon as Fields turned, he saw the Indian running off +with the rifles; instantly calling his brother, they pursued him for +fifty or sixty yards; just as they overtook him, in the scuffle for +the rifles R. Fields stabbed him through the heart with his knife. The +Indian ran about fifteen steps and fell dead. They now ran back with +their rifles to the camp. The moment the fellow touched his gun, +Drewyer, who was awake, jumped up and wrested it from him. The noise +awoke Captain Lewis, who instantly started from the ground and reached +for his gun; but finding it gone, drew a pistol from his belt, and +turning saw the Indian running off with it. He followed him and ordered +him to lay it down, which he did just as the two Fields came up, and +were taking aim to shoot him; when Captain Lewis ordered them not to +fire, as the Indian did not appear to intend any mischief. He dropped +the gun and was going slowly off when Drewyer came out and asked +permission to kill him; but this Captain Lewis forbade, as he had +not yet attempted to shoot us. But finding that the Indians were now +endeavoring to drive off all the horses, he ordered all three of us to +follow the main party, who were chasing the horses up the river, and +fire instantly upon the thieves; while he, without taking time to +run for his shot-pouch, pursued the fellow who had stolen his gun and +another Indian, who were driving away the horses on the left of the +camp. He pressed them so closely that they left twelve of their horses, +but continued to drive off one of our own. + +"At the distance of three hundred paces they entered a steep niche in +the river-bluffs, when Captain Lewis, being too much out of breath +to pursue them any further, called out, as he had done several times +before, that unless they gave up the horse he would shoot them. As he +raised his gun one of the Indians jumped behind a rock and spoke to the +other, who stopped at the distance of thirty paces. Captain Lewis shot +him in the belly. He fell on his knees and right elbow; but, raising +himself a little, fired, and then crawled behind a rock. The shot had +nearly proved fatal; for Captain Lewis, who was bareheaded, felt the +wind of the ball very distinctly. Not having his shot-pouch, he could +not reload his rifle; and, having only a single charge also for his +pistol, he thought it most prudent not to attack them farther, and +retired slowly to the camp. He was met by Drewyer, who, hearing the +report of the guns, had come to his assistance, leaving the Fields to +follow the other Indians. Captain Lewis ordered him to call out to them +to desist from the pursuit, as we could take the horses of the Indians +in place of our own; but they were at too great a distance to hear him. +He therefore returned to the camp, and while he was saddling the horses +the Fields returned with four of our own, having followed the Indians +until two of them swam the river and two others ascended the hills, so +that the horses became dispersed." + +The white men were gainers by this sad affair, for they had now in their +possession four of the Indians' horses, and had lost one of their own. +Besides these, they found in the camp of the Indians four shields, two +bows and their quivers, and one of their two guns. The captain took +some buffalo meat which he found in the camp, and then the rest of their +baggage was burned on the spot. The flag given to one of the so-called +chiefs was retaken; but the medal given to the dead man was left +around his neck. The consequences of this unfortunate quarrel were +far-reaching. The tribe whose member was killed by the white men never +forgave the injury, and for years after there was no safety for white +men in their vicinity except when the wayfarers were in great numbers or +strongly guarded. + +A forced march was now necessary for the explorers, and they set out as +speedily as possible, well knowing that the Indians would be on their +trail. By three o'clock in the afternoon of that day they had reached +Tansy River, now known as the Teton, having travelled sixty-three miles. +They rested for an hour and a half to refresh their horses, and then +pushed on for seventeen miles further before camping again. Having +killed a buffalo, they had supper and stopped two hours. Then, +travelling through vast herds of buffalo until two o'clock in the +morning, they halted again, almost dead with fatigue; they rested until +daylight. On awaking, they found themselves so stiff and sore with much +riding that they could scarcely stand. But the lives of their friends +now at or near the mouth of Maria's River were at stake, as well as +their own. Indeed, it was not certain but that the Indians had, by hard +riding and a circuitous route, already attacked the river party left at +the falls. So Captain Lewis told his men that they must go on, and, +if attacked, they must tie their horses together by the head and stand +together, selling their lives as dearly as possible, or routing their +enemies. The journal now says:-- + +"To this they all assented, and we therefore continued our route to +the eastward, till at the distance of twelve miles we came near the +Missouri, when we heard a noise which seemed like the report of a gun. +We therefore quickened our pace for eight miles farther, and, being +about five miles from Grog Spring, now heard distinctly the noise of +several rifles from the river. We hurried to the bank, and saw with +exquisite satisfaction our friends descending the river. They landed +to greet us, and after turning our horses loose, we embarked with our +baggage, and went down to the spot where we had made a deposite. This, +after reconnoitring the adjacent country, we opened; but, unfortunately, +the cache had caved in, and most of the articles were injured. We took +whatever was still worth preserving, and immediately proceeded to the +point, where we found our deposits in good order. By a singular good +fortune, we were here joined by Sergeant Gass and Willard from the +Falls, who had been ordered to come with the horses here to assist in +procuring meat for the voyage, as it had been calculated that the canoes +would reach this place much sooner than Captain Lewis's party. After a +very heavy shower of rain and hail, attended with violent thunder and +lightning, we started from the point, and giving a final discharge to +our horses, went over to the island where we had left our red pirogue, +which, however, we found much decayed, and we had no means of repairing +her. We therefore took all the iron work out of her, and, proceeding +down the river fifteen miles, encamped near some cottonwood trees, one +of which was of the narrow-leafed species, and the first of that kind we +had remarked in ascending the river. + +"Sergeant Ordway's party, which had left the mouth of Madison River on +the thirteenth, had descended in safety to White Bear Island, where he +arrived on the nineteenth, and, after collecting the baggage, had left +the falls on the twenty-seventh in the white pirogue and five canoes, +while Sergeant Gass and Willard set out at the same time by land with +the horses, and thus fortunately met together." + +Sergeant Ordway's party, it will be recollected, had left Captain Clark +at the three forks of the Missouri, to which they had come down the +Jefferson, and thence had passed down the Missouri to White Bear +Islands, and, making the portage, had joined the rest of the party just +in time to reinforce them. Game was now abundant the buffalo being in +enormous herds; and the bighorn were also numerous; the flesh of these +animals was in fine condition, resembling the best of mutton in flavor. +The reunited party now descended the river, the intention being to reach +the mouth of the Yellowstone as soon as possible, and there wait for +Captain Clark, who, it will be recalled, was to explore that stream and +meet them at the point of its junction with the Missouri. The voyage of +Captain Lewis and his men was without startling incident, except that +Cruzatte accidentally shot the captain, one day, while they were out +hunting. The wound was through the fleshy part of the left thigh, and +for a time was very painful. As Cruzatte was not in sight when the +captain was hit, the latter naturally thought he had been shot by +Indians hiding in the thicket. He reached camp as best he could, and, +telling his men to arm themselves, he explained that he had been shot by +Indians. But when Cruzatte came into camp, mutual explanations satisfied +all hands that a misunderstanding had arisen and that Cruzatte's unlucky +shot was accidental. As an example of the experience of the party about +this time, while they were on their way down the Missouri, we take this +extract from their journal:-- + +"We again saw great numbers of buffalo, elk, antelope, deer, and wolves; +also eagles and other birds, among which were geese and a solitary +pelican, neither of which can fly at present, as they are now shedding +the feathers of their wings. We also saw several bears, one of them the +largest, except one, we had ever seen; for he measured nine feet from +the nose to the extremity of the tail. During the night a violent +storm came on from the northeast with such torrents of rain that we had +scarcely time to unload the canoes before they filled with water. Having +no shelter we ourselves were completely wet to the skin, and the wind +and cold air made our situation very unpleasant." + +On the twelfth of August, the Lewis party met with two traders from +Illinois. These men were camped on the northeast side of the river; +they had left Illinois the previous summer, and had been coming up the +Missouri hunting and trapping. Captain Lewis learned from them that +Captain Clark was below; and later in that day the entire expedition was +again united, Captain Clark's party being found at a point near where +Little Knife Creek enters the Missouri River. We must now take up the +narrative of Captain Clark and his adventures on the Yellowstone. + + + + +Chapter XXV -- Adventures on the Yellowstone + +The route of Captain Clark from the point where he and Captain Lewis +divided their party, was rather more difficult than that pursued by +the Lewis detachment. But the Clark party was larger, being composed of +twenty men and Sacajawea and her baby. They were to travel up the main +fork of Clark's River (sometimes called the Bitter Root), to Ross's +Hole, and then strike over the great continental divide at that point by +way of the pass which he discovered and which was named for him; thence +he was to strike the headwaters of Wisdom River, a stream which this +generation of men knows by the vulgar name of Big Hole River; from this +point he was to go by the way of Willard's Creek to Shoshonee Cove and +the Two Forks of the Jefferson, and thence down that stream to the +Three Forks of the Missouri, up the Gallatin, and over the divide to the +Yellowstone and down that river to its junction with the Missouri, where +he was to join the party of Captain Lewis. This is the itinerary that +was exactly carried out. The very first incident set forth in the +journal is a celebration of Independence Day, as follows:-- + +"Friday, July 4. Early in the morning three hunters were sent out. +The rest of the party having collected the horses and breakfasted, we +proceeded at seven o'clock up the valley, which is now contracted to the +width of from eight to ten miles, with a good proportion of pitch-pine, +though its low lands, as well as the bottoms of the creeks, are strewn +with large stones. We crossed five creeks of different sizes, but of +great depth, and so rapid that in passing the last several of the horses +were driven down the stream, and some of our baggage was wet. Near +this river we saw the tracks of two Indians, whom we supposed to be +Shoshonees. Having made sixteen miles, we halted at an hour for +the purpose of doing honor to the birthday of our early country's +independence. The festival was not very splendid, for it consisted of a +mush made of cows and a saddle of venison; nor had we anything to tempt +us to prolong it. We therefore went on till at the distance of a mile we +came to a very large creek, which, like all those in the valley, had +an immense rapidity of descent; we therefore proceeded up for some +distance, in order to select the most convenient spot for fording. Even +there, however, such was the violence of the current that, though the +water was not higher than the bellies of the horses, the resistance made +in passing caused the stream to rise over their backs and loads. After +passing the creek we inclined to the left, and soon after struck the +road which we had descended last year, near the spot where we dined on +the 7th of September (1805). Along this road we continued on the west +side of Clark's River, till at the distance of thirteen miles, during +which we passed three more deep, large creeks, we reached its western +branch, where we camped; and having sent out two hunters, despatched +some men to examine the best ford across the west fork of the river. The +game to-day consisted of four deer; though we also saw a herd of ibex, +or bighorn." + +Two days later they were high up among the mountains, although the +ascent was not very steep. At that height they found the weather very +cool, so much so that on the morning of the sixth of July, after a cold +night, they had a heavy white frost on the ground. Setting out on that +day, Captain Clark crossed a ridge which proved to be the dividing line +between the Pacific and the Atlantic watershed. At the same time he +passed from what is now Missoula County, Montana, into the present +county of Beaver Head, in that State. "Beaver Head," the reader will +recollect, comes from a natural elevation in that region resembling the +head of a beaver. These points will serve to fix in one's mind the +route of the first exploring party that ever ventured into those wilds; +descending the ridge on its eastern slope, the explorers struck Glade +Creek, one of the sources of the stream then named Wisdom River, a +branch of the Jefferson; and the Jefferson is one of the tributaries of +the mighty Missouri. Next day the journal has this entry:-- + +"In the morning our horses were so much scattered that, although we sent +out hunters in every direction to range the country for six or eight +miles, nine of them could not be recovered. They were the most valuable +of all our horses, and so much attached to some of their companions that +it was difficult to separate them in the daytime. We therefore presumed +that they must have been stolen by some roving Indians; and accordingly +left a party of five men to continue the pursuit, while the rest went +on to the spot where the canoes had been deposited. We set out at ten +o'clock and pursued a course S. 56'0 E. across the valley, which we +found to be watered by four large creeks, with extensive low and +miry bottoms; and then reached (and crossed) Wisdom River, along the +northeast side of which we continued, till at the distance of sixteen +miles we came to its three branches. Near that place we stopped for +dinner at a hot spring situated in the open plain. The bed of the spring +is about fifteen yards in circumference, and composed of loose, hard, +gritty stones, through which the water boils in great quantities. It is +slightly impregnated with sulphur, and so hot that a piece of meat about +the size of three fingers was completely done in twenty-five minutes." + +Next day, July 8, the party reached the forks of the Jefferson River, +where they had cached their goods in August, 1805; they had now +travelled one hundred and sixty-four miles from Traveller's-rest Creek +to that point. The men were out of tobacco, and as there was some among +the goods deposited in the cache they made haste to open the cache. They +found everything safe, although some of the articles were damp, and a +hole had been made in the bottom of one of the canoes. Here they were +overtaken by Sergeant Ordway and his party with the nine horses that had +escaped during the night of the seventh. + +That night the weather was so cold that water froze in a basin to a +thickness of three-quarters of an inch, and the grass around the camp +was stiff with frost, although the month of July was nearly a week old. +The boats taken from the cache were now loaded, and the explorers were +divided into two bands, one to descend the river by boat and the other +to take the same general route on horseback, the objective point being +the Yellowstone. The story is taken tip here by the journal in these +lines:-- + +"After breakfast (July 10) the two parties set out, those on shore +skirting the eastern side of Jefferson River, through Service (-berry) +Valley and over Rattlesnake Mountain, into a beautiful and extensive +country, known among the Indians by the name of Hahnahappapchah, or +Beaverhead Valley, from the number of those animals to be found in it, +and also from the point of land resembling the head of a beaver. It (the +valley) extends from Rattlesnake Mountain as low as Frazier's Creek, and +is about fifty miles in length in direct line; while its width varies +from ten to fifteen miles, being watered in its whole course by +Jefferson River and six different creeks. The valley is open and +fertile; besides the innumerable quantities of beaver and otter with +which its creeks are supplied, the bushes of the low grounds are a +favorite resort for deer; while on the higher parts of the valley are +seen scattered groups of antelopes, and still further, on the steep +sides of the mountains, are observed many bighorns, which take refuge +there from the wolves and bears. At the distance of fifteen miles the +two parties stopped to dine; when Captain Clark, finding that the river +became wider and deeper, and that the canoes could advance more rapidly +than the horses, determined to go himself by water, leaving Sergeant +Pryor with six men to bring on the horses. In this way they resumed +their journey after dinner, and camped on the eastern side of the river, +opposite the head of Three-thousand-mile Island. The beaver were basking +in great numbers along the shore; there were also some young wild geese +and ducks. The mosquitoes were very troublesome during the day, but +after sunset the weather became cool and they disappeared." + +Three-thousand-mile Island was so named by the explorers, when they +ascended these streams, because it was at a point exactly three thousand +miles from the mouth of the Missouri. But no such island exists now; it +has probably been worn away by the swift-rushing current of the river. +The route of Captain Clark and his party, up to this time had been a few +miles west of Bannock City, Montana. As the captain was now to proceed +by land to the Yellowstone, again leaving the canoe party, it is well to +recall the fact that his route from the Three Forks of the Missouri to +the Yellowstone follows pretty nearly the present line of the railroad +from Gallatin City to Livingston, by the way of Bozeman Pass. Of this +route the journal says:-- + +"Throughout the whole, game was very abundant. They procured deer in +the low grounds; beaver and otter were seen in Gallatin River, and elk, +wolves, eagles, hawks, crows, and geese at different parts of the route. +The plain was intersected by several great roads leading to a gap in the +mountains, about twenty miles distant, in a direction E.N.E.; but the +Indian woman, who was acquainted with the country, recommended a gap +more to the southward. This course Captain Clark determined to pursue." + +Let us pause here to pay a little tribute to the memory of "the Indian +woman," Sacajawea. She showed that she was very observant, had a good +memory, and was plucky and determined when in trouble. She was the guide +of the exploring party when she was in a region of country, as here, +with which she was familiar. She remembered localities which she had +not seen since her childhood. When their pirogue was upset by the +carelessness of her husband, it was she who saved the goods and helped +to right the boat. And, with her helpless infant clinging to her, she +rode with the men, guiding them with unerring skill through the mountain +fastnesses and lonely passes which the white men saw for the first time +when their salient features were pointed out to them by the intelligent +and faithful Sacajawea. The Indian woman has long since departed to the +Happy Hunting-Grounds of her fathers; only her name and story remain +to us who follow the footsteps of the brave pioneers of the western +continent. But posterity should not forget the services which were +rendered to the white race by Sacajawea. + +On the fifteenth of July the party arrived at the ridge that divides +the Missouri and the Yellowstone, nine miles from which they reached +the river itself, about a mile and a half from the point where it +issues from the Rocky Mountains. Their journey down the valley of the +Yellowstone was devoid of special interest, but was accompanied with +some hardships. For example, the feet of the horses had become so sore +with long travel over a stony trail that it was necessary to shoe them +with raw buffalo hide. Rain fell frequently and copiously; and often, +sheltered at night only by buffalo hides, they rose in the morning +drenched to the skin. The party could not follow the course of the river +very closely, but were compelled often to cross hills that came down to +the bank, making the trail impassable for horses. Here is the story of +July 18 and 19:-- + +"Gibson, one of the party, was so badly hurt by falling on a sharp point +of wood that he was unable to sit on his horse, and they were obliged +to form a sort of litter for him, so that he could lie nearly at full +length. The wound became so painful, however, after proceeding a short +distance, that he could not bear the motion, and they left him with two +men, while Captain Clark went to search for timber large enough to form +canoes. He succeeded in finding some trees of sufficient size for small +canoes, two of which he determined to construct, and by lashing them +together hoped to make them answer the purpose of conveying the party +down the river, while a few of his men should conduct the horses to the +Mandans. All hands, therefore, were set busily to work, and they were +employed in this labor for several days. In the mean time no less than +twenty-four of their horses were missing, and they strongly suspected +had been stolen by the Indians, for they were unable to find them, +notwithstanding they made the most diligent search." + +"July 23. A piece of a robe and a moccasin," says the journal, "were +discovered this morning not far from the camp. The moccasin was worn out +in the sole, and yet wet, and had every appearance of having been left +but a few hours before. This was conclusive that the Indians had taken +our horses, and were still prowling about for the remainder, which +fortunately escaped last night by being in a small prairie surrounded by +thick timber. At length Labiche, one of our best trackers, returned from +a very wide circuit, and informed Captain Clark that he had traced +the horses bending their course rather down the river towards the open +plains, and from their tracks, must have been going very rapidly. All +hopes of recovering them were now abandoned. Nor were the Indians the +only plunderers around our camp; for in the night the wolves or dogs +stole the greater part of the dried meat from the scaffold. The wolves, +which constantly attend the buffalo, were here in great numbers, as this +seemed to be the commencement of the buffalo country. . . . + +"At noon the two canoes were finished. They were twenty-eight feet long, +sixteen or eighteen inches deep, and from sixteen to twenty-four inches +wide; and, having lashed them together, everything was ready for setting +out the next day, Gibson having now recovered. Sergeant Pryor was +directed, with Shannon and Windsor, to take the remaining horses to the +Mandans, and if he should find that Mr. Henry (a trading-post agent) +was on the Assiniboin River, to go thither and deliver him a letter, the +object of which was to prevail on the most distinguished chiefs of the +Sioux to accompany him to Washington." + +On a large island near the mouth of a creek now known as Canyon Creek, +the party landed to explore an extensive Indian lodge which seems to +have been built for councils, rather than for a place of residence. The +lodge was shaped like a cone, sixty feet in diameter at the base and +tapering towards the top. The poles of which it was constructed were +forty-five feet long. The interior was strangely decorated, the tops of +the poles being ornamented with eagles' feathers, and from the centre +hung a stuffed buffalo-hide. A buffalo's head and other trophies of +the chase were disposed about the wigwam. The valley, as the explorers +descended the river, was very picturesque and wonderful. On the north +side the cliffs were wild and romantic, and these were soon succeeded by +rugged hills, and these, in turn, by open plains on which were descried +herds of buffalo, elk, and wolves. On the twenty-seventh of July, having +reached the Bighorn, one of the largest tributaries of the Yellowstone, +the party have this entry in their journal:-- + +"They again set out very early, and on leaving the Bighorn took a last +look at the Rocky Mountains, which had been constantly in view from the +first of May. The (Yellowstone) river now widens to the extent of from +four hundred to six hundred yards; it is much divided by islands and +sandbars; its banks are generally low and falling in; it thus resembles +the Missouri in many particulars, but its islands are more numerous, +its waters less muddy, and the current is more rapid. The water is of +a yellowish-white, and the round stones, which form the bars above the +Bighorn, have given place to gravel. On the left side the river runs +under cliffs of light, soft, gritty stone, varying in height from +seventy to one hundred feet, behind which are level and extensive +plains. On the right side of the river are low extensive bottoms, +bordered with cottonwood, various species of willow, rose-bushes, +grapevines, redberry or buffalo-grease bushes, and a species of sumach; +to these succeed high grounds supplied with pine, and still further on +are level plains. Throughout the country are vast quantities of buffalo, +which, as this is the running-season, keep up a continued bellowing. +Large herds of elk also are lying on every point, so gentle that they +may be approached within twenty paces without being alarmed. Several +beaver were seen in the course of the day; indeed, there is a greater +appearance of those animals than there was above the Bighorn. Deer, +however, are by no means abundant, and antelopes, as well as bighorns, +are scarce." + +It is noticeable that the explorers, all along their route, gave to +streams, rocks, mountains, and other natural features of the country +many names that appear to us meaningless and trifling. It would appear +that they used up all the big names, such as Jefferson, Gallatin, +Philosophy, Philanthropy, and the like, and were compelled to use, +first, the names of their own party, and then such titles as were +suggested by trifling incidents. For example, when they reached a +difficult shoal on the Yellowstone River, they named that Buffalo Shoal +because they found a buffalo on it; and Buffalo Shoal it remains unto +this day. In like manner, when they reached a dangerous rapid, twenty +miles below that point, they saw a bear standing on a rock in the +stream; and Bear Rapid the place was and is named. Bear and buffalo +were pretty numerous all the way along that part of the river which they +navigated in July. They had now rejoined the boats, and on the last day +of July, when camped at a point two miles above Wolf Rapid (so called +from seeing a wolf there), the buffalo were continually prowling about +the camp at night, exciting much alarm lest they should trample on the +boats and ruin them. In those days, buffalo were so numerous that they +were a nuisance to travellers; and they were so free from fear of man +that they were too familiar with the camps and equipage. On the first of +August we find this entry in the journal of the party:-- + +"The buffalo now appear in vast numbers. A herd happened to be on their +way across the river. Such was the multitude of these animals that, +though the river, including an island over which they passed, was a mile +wide, the herd stretched, as thickly as they could swim, from one +side to the other, and the party was obliged to stop for an hour. They +consoled themselves for the delay by killing four of the herd; and then +having proceeded for the distance of forty-five miles (in all to-day) +to an island, below which two other herds of buffalo, as numerous as the +first, soon after crossed the river." + +Again, on the very next day, we find this entry:-- + +"The river was now about a mile wide, less rapid, and more divided by +islands, and bars of sand and mud, than heretofore; the low grounds, +too, were more extensive, and contained a greater quantity of +cottonwood, ash, and willows. On the northwest was a low, level plain, +and on the southeast some rugged hills, on which we saw, without being +able to approach them, some bighorns. Buffalo and elk, as well as their +pursuers, the wolves, were in great numbers. On each side of the +river there were several dry beds of streams, but the only one of any +considerable size was one to which they gave the name of Ibex River, +on the right, about thirty yards wide, and sixteen miles from their +encampment of the preceding night. The bear, which had given them so +much trouble at the head of the Missouri, they found equally fierce +here. One of these animals, which was on a sand-bar as the boat passed, +raised himself on his hind feet, and after looking at the party for a +moment, plunged in and swam towards them; but, after receiving three +balls in the body, he turned and made for the shore. Towards evening +they saw another enter the water to swim across; when Captain Clark +directed the boat towards the shore, and just as the animal landed shot +it in the head. It proved to be the largest female they had ever seen, +and was so old that its tusks were worn quite smooth. The boats escaped +with difficulty between two herds of buffalo that were crossing the +river, and came near being again detained by them. Among the elk of this +neighborhood they saw an unusual number of males, while higher up the +herds consisted chiefly of females." + +It is almost incredible that these wild animals should have been so +nearly exterminated by hunters and other rovers of the plains, very soon +after travel set in across the continent. The writer of these lines, who +crossed the plains to California so lately as 1856, saw buffalo +killed for the sake of their tongues, or to give rifle practice to +the wayfarers. After the overland railroad was opened, passengers shot +buffalo from the car-windows, well knowing that they could not get their +game, even if they should kill as they flew by a herd. There are no +buffalo nor elk where millions once roamed almost unmolested. + +Early in the afternoon of August 3, the party reached the junction of +the Yellowstone and the Missouri, and camped on the same spot where they +had pitched their tents on the 26th of April, 1805. They were nearing +the end of their long journey. + +But their troubles thickened as they drew near the close of their many +miles of travel. The journal for August 4 has this record:-- + +"The camp became absolutely uninhabitable in consequence of the +multitude of mosquitoes; the men could not work in preparing skins for +clothing, nor hunt in the timbered low grounds; there was no mode of +escape, except by going on the sand-bars in the river, where, if the +wind should blow, the insects do not venture; but when there is no wind, +and particularly at night, when the men have no covering except their +worn-out blankets, the pain they suffer is scarcely to be endured. There +was also a want of meat, for no buffalo were to be found; and though elk +are very abundant, yet their fat and flesh is more difficult to dry in +the sun, and is also much more easily spoiled than the meat or fat of +either deer or buffalo. + +"Captain Clark therefore determined to go on to some spot which should +be free from mosquitoes and furnish more game. Having written a note to +Captain Lewis, to inform him of his intention, and stuck it on a pole +at the confluence of the two rivers, he loaded the canoes at five in the +afternoon, proceeded down the river to the second point, and camped on +a sand-bar; but here the mosquitoes seemed to be even more numerous +than above. The face of the Indian child was considerably puffed up +and swollen with their bites; the men could procure scarcely any sleep +during the night, and the insects continued to harass them next morning, +as they proceeded. On one occasion Captain Clark went on shore and +ascended a hill after one of the bighorns; but the mosquitoes were in +such multitudes that he could not keep them from the barrel of his rifle +long enough to take aim. About ten o'clock, however, a light breeze +sprung up from the northwest, and dispersed them in some degree. Captain +Clark then landed on a sand-bar, intending to wait for Captain Lewis, +and went out to hunt. But not finding any buffalo, he again proceeded in +the afternoon; and having killed a large white bear, camped under a high +bluff exposed to a light breeze from the southwest, which blew away the +mosquitoes. About eleven o'clock, however, the wind became very high and +a storm of rain came on, which lasted for two hours, accompanied with +sharp lightning and loud peals of thunder. + +"The party rose, next day, very wet, and proceeded to a sand-bar below +the entrance of Whiteearth River. Just above this place the Indians, +apparently within seven, or eight days past, had been digging a root +which they employ in making a kind of soup. Having fixed their tents, +the men were employed in dressing skins and hunting. They shot a number +of deer; but only two of them were fat, owing probably to the great +quantities of mosquitoes which annoy them while feeding." + +On the eleventh of August the Clark party came up with the two white +traders from Illinois, of whom we have already made mention as having +been met by the Lewis party on their way down the river. These were the +first white men they had seen (except themselves) since they parted with +the three French trappers, near the Little Missouri, in April, 1805, +From them the wayworn voyagers received the latest news from the United +States. From them they also had some unfavorable tidings. The journal +says:-- + +"These men had met the boat which we had despatched from Fort Mandan, +on board of which, they were told, was a Ricara chief on his way to +Washington; and also another party of Yankton chiefs, accompanying Mr. +Durion on a visit of the same kind. We were sorry to learn that the +Mandans and Minnetarees were at war with the Ricaras, and had killed two +of them. The Assiniboins too are at war with the Mandans. They have, +in consequence, prohibited the Northwestern Company from trading to the +Missouri, and even killed two of their traders near Mouse River; they +are now lying in wait for Mr. McKenzie of the Northwestern Company, who +has been for a long time among the Minnetarees. These appearances are +rather unfavorable to our project of carrying some of the chiefs to the +United States; but we still hope that, by effecting a peace between the +Mandans, Minnetarees, and Ricaras, the views of our Government may be +accomplished." + +Next day, August 12, 1806, the party, slowly descending the river, were +overjoyed to see below them the little flotilla of Captain Lewis and his +men. But they were alarmed when they discovered that Lewis was not with +them; as the boats landed at the shore, the captain was not to be seen. +Captain Clark's party, on coming up with their friends, were told that +Lewis was lying in the pirogue, having been accidentally wounded. The +whole party were now happily reunited, and they were soon joined by the +two Illinois traders whom they had met up the river; these men wished to +accompany the expedition down the river as far as the Mandan nation, +for the purpose of trading; they were more secure with a large party of +white men than they would be if left to themselves. + + + + +Chapter XXVI -- The End of a Long Journey + +The reunited party now set out for the lower river and proceeded rapidly +down-stream, favored with a good wind. They made eighty-six miles on +the first day, passing the mouth of the Little Missouri early in the +forenoon, and camping at Miry River, on the northeast side of the +Missouri. On the second day they arrived at the principal village of the +Minnetarees, where they were received with cordial welcome by their old +friends. The explorers fired their blunderbuss several times by way of +salute, and the Indian chiefs expressed their satisfaction at the safe +return of the white men. One of the Minnetaree chiefs, however, wept +bitterly at the sight of the whites, and it was explained by his friends +that their coming reminded him of the death of his son, who had been +lately killed by the Blackfoot Indians. + +Arriving at the village of the Mandans, of which Black Cat was the +chief, a council was called, and the chiefs of the expedition endeavored +to persuade some of the leading men of the tribe to accompany them to +Washington to see "the Great Father." Black Cat expressed his strong +desire to visit the United States and see the Great Father, but he was +afraid of the Sioux, their ancient enemies, through whose territory they +must pass on their way down to the white man's country. This chief, it +will be recollected, was given a flag and a medal by the two captains +when they passed up the river on their way to the Rocky Mountains and +the Pacific coast. The flag was now brought on and hoisted on the lodge +of Black Cat. On that occasion, also, the commanders of the expedition +had given the Indians a number of useful articles, among them being a +portable corn-mill. But the Indians had other uses for metal, and they +had taken the mill apart and used the iron for the purpose of making +barbs for their arrows. From the Omahas, who were located here, the +white men received a present of as much corn as three men could carry. +Black Cat also gave them a dozen bushels of corn. + +Their days of starvation and famine were over. They were next visited +by Le Borgne, better known as One-eye, the head chief of all the +Minnetarees, to whom Lewis and Clark also extended an invitation to go +to Washington to see the Great Father. The journal says:-- + +"Le Borgne began by declaring that he much desired to visit his Great +Father, but that the Sioux would certainly kill any of the Mandans who +should attempt to go down the river. They were bad people, and would not +listen to any advice. When he saw us last, we had told him that we had +made peace with all the nations below; yet the Sioux had since killed +eight of his tribe, and stolen a number of their horses. The Ricaras too +had stolen their horses, and in the contest his people had killed two +of the Ricaras. Yet in spite of these dispositions he had always had +his ears open to our counsels, and had actually made a peace with +the Chayennes and the Indians of the Rocky Mountains. He concluded by +saying, that however disposed they were to visit the United States, the +fear of the Sioux would prevent them from going with us." + +The truth was that One-eye had no notion of going to Washington; he was +afraid of nobody, and his plea of possible danger among the Sioux +was mere nonsense to deceive the white men. Captain Clark visited the +village of Black Cat, and that worthy savage made the same excuse that +Le Borgne (One-eye) had already put forth; he was afraid of the Sioux. +The journal adds:-- + +"Captain Clark then spoke to the chiefs and warriors of the village. +He told them of his anxiety that some of them should see their Great +Father, hear his good words, and receive his gifts; and requested them +to fix on some confidential chief who might accompany us. To this they +made the same objections as before; till at length a young man offered +to go, and the warriors all assented to it. But the character of +this man was known to be bad; and one of the party with Captain Clark +informed him that at the moment he (this Indian) had in his possession +a knife which he had stolen. Captain Clark therefore told the chief of +this theft, and ordered the knife to be given up. This was done with +a poor apology for having it in his possession, and Captain Clark then +reproached the chiefs for wishing to send such a fellow to see and hear +so distinguished a person as their Great Father. They all hung down +their heads for some time, till Black Cat apologized by saying that +the danger was such that they were afraid of sending any one of their +chiefs, as they considered his loss almost inevitable." + +Although there was so much reluctance on the part of the Indians to +leave their roving life, even for a few months, there were some white +men among the explorers who were willing to give up their home in "the +States." The journal says:-- + +"In the evening Colter applied to us for permission to join the two +trappers who had accompanied us, and who now proposed an expedition up +the river, in which they were to find traps and to give him a share of +the profits. The offer was a very advantageous one; and as he had +always performed his duty, and his services could be dispensed with, we +consented to his going upon condition that none of the rest were to ask +or expect a similar indulgence. To this they all cheerfully assented, +saying that they wished Colter every success, and would not apply for +liberty to separate before we reached St. Louis. We therefore supplied +him, as did his comrades also, with powder and lead, and a variety of +articles which might be useful to him, and he left us the next day. The +example of this man shows how easily men may be weaned from the habits +of civilized life to the ruder, though scarcely less fascinating, +manners of the woods. This hunter had now been absent for many years +from the frontiers, and might naturally be presumed to have some +anxiety, or at least curiosity, to return to his friends and his +country; yet, just at the moment when he was approaching the frontiers, +he was tempted by a hunting scheme to give up all those delightful +prospects, and to go back without the least reluctance to the solitude +of the wilds." + +The two captains learned here that the Minnetarees had sent out a +war-party against the Shoshonees, very soon after the white men's +expedition had left for the Rocky Mountains, notwithstanding their +promise to keep peace with the surrounding tribes. They had also sent a +war-party against the Ricaras, two of whom they killed. Accordingly, the +white chiefs had a powwow with the Indian chiefs, at which the journal +says these incidents occurred:-- + +"We took this opportunity of endeavoring to engage Le Borgne in our +interests by a present of the swivel, which is no longer serviceable, as +it cannot be discharged from our largest pirogue. It was loaded; and the +chiefs being formed into a circle round it, Captain Clark addressed them +with great ceremony. He said that he had listened with much attention +to what had yesterday been declared by Le Borgne, whom he believed to be +sincere, and then reproached them with their disregard of our counsels, +and their wars on the Shoshonees and Ricaras. Little Cherry, the +old Minnetaree chief, answered that they had long stayed at home and +listened to our advice, but at last went to war against the Sioux +because their horses had been stolen and their companions killed; and +that in an expedition against those people they met the Ricaras, who +were on their way to strike them, and a battle ensued. But in future he +said they would attend to our words and live at peace. Le Borgne added +that his ears would always be open to the words of his Good Father, and +shut against bad counsel. Captain Clark then presented to Le Borgne the +swivel, which he told him had announced the words of his Great Father +to all the nations we had seen, and which, whenever it was fired, should +recall those which we had delivered to him. The gun was discharged, and +Le Borgne had it conveyed in great pomp to his village. The council then +adjourned." + +After much diplomacy and underhand scheming, one of the Mandan chiefs, +Big White, agreed to go to Washington with the expedition. But none of +the Minnetarees could be prevailed upon to leave their tribe, even for +a journey to the Great Father, of whose power and might so much had been +told them. The journal, narrating this fact, says further:-- + +"The principal chiefs of the Minnetarees now came down to bid us +farewell, as none of them could be prevailed on to go with us. This +circumstance induced our interpreter, Chaboneau, to remain here with his +wife and child, as he could no longer be of use to us, and, although we +offered to take him with us to the United States, he declined, saying +that there he had no acquaintance, and no chance of making a livelihood, +and preferred remaining among the Indians. This man had been very +serviceable to us, and his wife was particularly useful among the +Shoshonees: indeed, she had borne with a patience truly admirable the +fatigues of so long a route, encumbered with the charge of an infant, +who was then only nineteen months old. We therefore paid him his wages, +amounting to five hundred dollars and thirty-three cents, including +the price of a horse and a lodge purchased of him, and soon afterward +dropped down to the village of Big White, attended on shore by all the +Indian chiefs, who had come to take leave of him. + +"We found him surrounded by his friends, who sat in a circle smoking, +while the women were crying. He immediately sent his wife and son, with +their baggage, on board, accompanied by the interpreter and his wife, +and two children; and then, after distributing among his friends some +powder and ball which we had given him, and smoking a pipe, he went with +us to the river side. The whole village crowded about us, and many of +the people wept aloud at the departure of their chief." + +Once more embarked, the party soon reached Fort Mandan, where they had +wintered in 1804. They found very little of their old stronghold left +except a few pickets and one of the houses. The rest had been destroyed +by an accidental fire. Eighteen miles below, they camped near an old +Ricara village, and next day, as they were about to resume their voyage, +a brother of Big White, whose camp was farther inland, came running down +to the beach to bid Big White farewell. The parting of the two brothers +was very affectionate, and the elder gave the younger a pair of leggings +as a farewell present. The Indian chief was satisfied with his treatment +by the whites, and interested himself to tell them traditions of +localities which they passed. August 20 they were below the mouth of +Cannon-ball River, and were in the country occupied and claimed by the +Sioux. Here, if anywhere, they must be prepared for attacks from +hostile Indians. At this point, the journal sets forth this interesting +observation:-- + +"Since we passed in 1804, a very obvious change has taken place in the +current and appearance of the Missouri. In places where at that time +there were sandbars, the current of the river now passes, and the former +channel of the river is in turn a bank of sand. Sandbars then naked are +now covered with willows several feet high; the entrance of some of +the creeks and rivers has changed in consequence of the quantity of mud +thrown into them; and in some of the bottoms are layers of mud eight +inches in depth." + +The streams that flow into the Missouri and Mississippi from the +westward are notoriously fickle and changeable. Within a very few years, +some of them have changed their course so that farms are divided into +two parts, or are nearly wiped out by the wandering streams. In at least +one instance, artful men have tried to steal part of a State by changing +the boundary line along the bed of the river, making the stream flow +many miles across a tract around which it formerly meandered. On this +boundary line between the Sioux and their upper neighbors, the party +met a band of Cheyennes and another of Ricaras, or Arikaras. They held +a palaver with these Indians and reproached the Ricara chief, who was +called Gray-eyes, with having engaged in hostilities with the Sioux, +notwithstanding the promises made when the white men were here before. +To this Gray-eyes made an animated reply:-- + +"He declared that the Ricaras were willing to follow the counsels we had +given them, but a few of their bad young men would not live in peace, +but had joined the Sioux and thus embroiled them with the Mandans. These +young men had, however, been driven out of the villages, and as the +Ricaras were now separated from the Sioux, who were a bad people and the +cause of all their misfortunes, they now desired to be at peace with the +Mandans, and would receive them with kindness and friendship. Several of +the chiefs, he said, were desirous of visiting their Great Father; but +as the chief who went to the United States last summer had not returned, +and they had some fears for his safety, on account of the Sioux, they +did not wish to leave home until they heard of him. With regard to +himself, he would continue with his nation, to see that they followed +our advice. . . . . . . . . . + +"After smoking for some time, Captain Clark gave a small medal to the +Chayenne chief, and explained at the same time the meaning of it. He +seemed alarmed at this present, and sent for a robe and a quantity of +buffalo-meat, which he gave to Captain Clark, and requested him to take +back the medal; for he knew that all white people were 'medicine,' and +was afraid of the medal, or of anything else which the white people gave +to the Indians. Captain Clark then repeated his intention in giving +the medal, which was the medicine his great father had directed him +to deliver to all chiefs who listened to his word and followed his +counsels; and that as he (the chief) had done so, the medal was given +as a proof that we believed him sincere. He now appeared satisfied and +received the medal, in return for which he gave double the quantity of +buffalo-meat he had offered before. He seemed now quite reconciled to +the whites, and requested that some traders might be sent among the +Chayennes, who lived, he said, in a country full of beaver, but did +not understand well how to catch them, and were discouraged from it by +having no sale for them when caught. Captain Clark promised that they +should be soon supplied with goods and taught the best mode of catching +beaver. + +"Big White, the chief of the Mandans, now addressed them at some length, +explaining the pacific intentions of his nation; the Chayennes observed +that both the Ricaras and Mandans seemed to be in fault; but at the end +of the council the Mandan chief was treated with great civility, and +the greatest harmony prevailed among them. The great chief, however, +informed us that none of the Ricaras could be prevailed on to go with us +till the return of the other chief; and that the Chayennes were a wild +people, afraid to go. He invited Captain Clark to his house, and gave +him two carrots of tobacco, two beaver-skins, and a trencher of boiled +corn and beans. It is the custom of all the nations on the Missouri to +offer to every white man food and refreshment when he first enters their +tents." + +Resuming their voyage, the party reached Tyler's River, where they +camped, on the twenty-seventh of August. This stream is now known as +Medicine River, from Medicine Hill, a conspicuous landmark rising at a +little distance from the Missouri. The voyagers were now near the +lower portion of what is now known as South Dakota, and they camped in +territory embraced in the county of Presho. Here they were forced to +send out their hunters; their stock of meat was nearly exhausted. The +hunters returned empty-handed. + +"After a hunt of three hours they reported that no game was to be found +in the bottoms, the grass having been laid flat by the immense number of +buffaloes which recently passed over it; and, that they saw only a few +buffalo bulls, which they did not kill, as they were quite unfit for +use. Near this place we observed, however, the first signs of the wild +turkey; not long afterward we landed in the Big Bend, and killed a fine +fat elk, on which we feasted. Toward night we heard the bellowing of +buffalo bulls on the lower island of the Big Bend. We pursued this +agreeable sound, and after killing some of the cows, camped on the +island, forty-five miles from the camp of last night." . . . . . . . . . + +"Setting out at ten o'clock the next morning, at a short distance they +passed the mouth of White River, the water of which was nearly of the +color of milk. As they were much occupied with hunting, they made but +twenty miles. The buffalo," says the journal, "were now so numerous, +that from an eminence we discovered more than we had ever seen before +at one time; and though it was impossible accurately to calculate their +number, they darkened the whole plain, and could not have been, we were +convinced, less than twenty thousand. With regard to game in general, +we have observed that wild animals are usually found in the greatest +numbers in the country lying between two nations at war." + +They were now well into the Sioux territory, and on the thirtieth of +August they had an encounter with a party of Indians. About twenty +persons were seen on the west side of the river, proceeding along a +height opposite the voyagers. Just as these were observed, another band, +numbering eighty or ninety, came out of the woods nearer the shore. As +they had a hostile appearance, the party in the canoes made preparations +to receive them; they were suspected to be Teton-Sioux, although they +might be Yanktons, Pawnees, or Omahas. The journal adds:-- + +"In order, however, to ascertain who they were, without risk to the +party, Captain Clark crossed, with three persons who could speak +different Indian languages, to a sand-bar near the opposite side, in +hopes of conversing with them. Eight young men soon met him on the +sand-bar, but none of them could understand either the Pawnee or +Maha interpreter. They were then addressed in the Sioux language, and +answered that they were Tetons, of the band headed by Black Buffaloe, +Tahtackasabah. This was the same who had attempted to stop us in 1804; +and being now less anxious about offending so mischievous a tribe, +Captain Clark told them that they had been deaf to our councils, had +ill-treated us two years ago, and had abused all the whites who had +since visited them. He believed them, he added, to be bad people, and +they must therefore return to their companions; for if they crossed over +to our camp we would put them to death. They asked for some corn, which +Captain Clark refused; they then requested permission to come and +visit our camp, but he ordered them back to their own people. He then +returned, and all our arms were prepared, in case of an attack; but when +the Indians reached their comrades, and informed their chiefs of our +intention, they all set out on their way to their own camp; though +some of them halted on a rising ground and abused us very copiously, +threatening to kill us if we came across. We took no notice of this for +some time, till the return of three of our hunters, whom we were afraid +the Indians might have met. But as soon as they joined us we embarked; +and to see what the Indians would attempt, steered near their side of +the river. At this the party on the hill seemed agitated; some set out +for their camp, others walked about, and one man walked toward the boats +and invited us to land. As he came near, we recognized him to be the +same who had accompanied us for two days in 1804, and was considered a +friend of the whites. + +"Unwilling, however, to have any intercourse with these people, we +declined his invitation, upon which he returned to the hill, and struck +the earth three times with his gun, a great oath among the Indians, +who consider swearing by the earth as one of the most solemn forms +of imprecation. At the distance of six miles we stopped on a bleak +sand-bar, where we thought ourselves secure from any attack during the +night, and also safe from the mosquitoes. We had made but twenty-two +miles, but in the course of the day had killed a mule-deer, an animal +we were very anxious to obtain. About eleven in the evening the wind +shifted to the northwest, and it began to rain, accompanied by thunder +and lightning, after which the wind changed to the southwest, and blew +with such violence that we were obliged to hold fast the canoes, for +fear of their being driven from the sand-bar: still, the cables of two +of them broke, and two others were blown quite across the river; nor was +it till two o'clock that the whole party were reassembled, waiting in +the rain for daylight." + +The party now began to meet white men in small detachments coming up the +river. On the third of September, for example, they met the first men +who were able to give them news of home. This party was commanded by a +Mr. James Airs (or Ayres), from Mackinaw, by the way of Prairie du Chien +and St. Louis. He had two canoes loaded with merchandise which he was +taking up the river to trade with the Indians. Among the items of news +gathered from him, according to the private journal of one of the Lewis +and Clark party, was that General James Wilkinson was now Governor +of Louisiana Territory, and was stationed at St. Louis. This is the +Wilkinson who fought in the American Revolution, and was subsequently to +this time accused of accepting bribes from Spain and of complicity with +Aaron Burr in his treasonable schemes. Another item was to this effect: +"Mr. Burr & Genl. Hambleton fought a Duel, the latter was killed." +This brief statement refers to the unhappy duel between Aaron Burr +and Alexander Hamilton, at Weehawken, New Jersey, July 11, 1804. This +interesting entry shows with what feelings the long-absent explorers met +Mr. Airs:-- + +"After so long an interval, the sight of anyone who could give us +information of our country was peculiarly delightful, and much of the +night was spent in making inquiries into what had occurred during our +absence. We found Mr. Airs a very friendly and liberal gentleman; when +we proposed to him to purchase a small quantity of tobacco, to be paid +for in St. Louis, he very readily furnished every man of the party with +as much as he could use during the rest of the voyage, and insisted +on our accepting a barrel of flour. This last we found very agreeable, +although we have still a little flour which we had deposited at the +mouth of Maria's River. We could give in return only about six bushels +of corn, which was all that we could spare." + +Three days later, the voyagers met a trading-boat belonging to Mr. +Augustus Chouteau, the founder of a famous trading-house in St. Louis. +From this party the captains procured a gallon of whiskey, and with this +they served out a dram to each of their men. "This," says the journal, +"is the first spirituous liquor any of them have tasted since the Fourth +of July, 1805." From this time forward, the returning explorers met +trading parties nearly every day; and this showed that trade was +following the flag far up into the hitherto unexplored regions of the +American continent. + +The explorers, hungry for news from home, would have tarried and talked +longer with their new-found friends, but they were anxious to get +down to civilization once more. Their journal also says: "The Indians, +particularly the squaws and children, are weary of the long journey, and +we are desirous of seeing our country and friends." This quotation from +the journal gives us our first intimation that any Indians accompanied +Big White to the United States. He appears to have had a small retinue +of followers men, women, and children--with him. + +Below the mouth of the Platte, September 12, Lewis and Clark met +Gravelines, the interpreter who was sent to Washington from Fort Mandan, +in 1805, with despatches, natural history specimens, and a Ricara chief. +The chief had unfortunately died in Washington, and Gravelines was now +on his way to the Ricaras with a speech from President Jefferson and the +presents that had been given to the chief. He also had instructions to +teach the Ricaras in agriculture. + +It is interesting to note how that the explorers, now tolerably well +acquainted with the Indian character since their long experience with +the red men, had adopted a very different bearing from that which they +had when coming up the river, in 1805. Here is an extract from their +journal, September 14:-- + +"We resumed our journey. This being a part of the river to which the +Kansas resort, in order to rob the boats of traders, we held ourselves +in readiness to fire upon any Indians who should offer us the slightest +indignity; as we no longer needed their friendship, and found that a +tone of firmness and decision is the best possible method of making +proper impressions on these freebooters. However, we did not +encounter any of them; but just below the old Kansas village met three +trading-boats from St. Louis, on their way to the Yanktons and Mahas." + +Thirty miles below the island of Little Osage village, the party met +Captain McClellan, formerly of the United States army. He informed +Captain Lewis that the party had been given up for lost, people +generally believing that they would never again be heard from; but, +according to the journal of one of the party, "The President of the U. +States yet had hopes of us." The last news received in "the U. States" +from the explorers was that sent from Fort Mandan, by Gravelines, in +1805. + +Scarcity of provisions once more disturbed the party, so that, on the +eighteenth of September, the journal sets forth the fact that game was +very scarce and nothing was seen by the hunters but a bear and three +turkeys, which they were unable to reach. The men, however, were +perfectly satisfied, although they were allowed only one biscuit +per day. An abundance of pawpaws growing along the banks sufficed as +nutritious food. The pawpaw is native to many of the Western States +of the Republic. It is a fruit three or four inches long, growing on +a small tree, or bush. The fruit is sweet and juicy and has several +bean-shaped seeds embedded in the pulp. The voyagers now began to see +signs of civilization on the banks of the river. Near the mouth of the +Gasconade, above St. Louis, they beheld cows grazing in the meadows. The +journal says: "The whole party almost involuntarily raised a shout of +joy at seeing this image of civilization and domestic life." Men who +have been wandering in pathless wildernesses, remote from man, for more +than two years, might well be moved by the sights of a homelike farm +and a settled life. Soon after this the party reached the little French +village of La Charette which they saluted with four guns and three +hearty cheers. Then, according to the journal, they landed and were +warmly received by the people, who had long since abandoned all hope +of ever seeing these far-voyaging adventurers return. Here are the +last entries in the journal that has been our guide so long across the +continent and back again to the haunts of men:-- + +"Sunday, September 21st, we proceeded; and as several settlements have +been made during our absence, we were refreshed with the sight of men +and cattle along the banks. We also passed twelve canoes of Kickapoo +Indians, going on a hunting-excursion. At length, after coming +forty-eight miles, we saluted, with heartfelt satisfaction, the +village of St. Charles, and on landing were treated with the greatest +hospitality and kindness by all the inhabitants of that place. Their +civility detained us till ten o'clock the next morning. + +"September 22d, when the rain having ceased, we set out for Coldwater +Creek, about three miles from the mouth of the Missouri, where we found +a cantonment of troops of the United States, with whom we passed the +day; and then, + +"September 23d, descended to the Mississippi, and round to St. Louis, +where we arrived at twelve o'clock; and having fired a salute, went on +shore and received the heartiest and most hospitable welcome from the +whole village." + +The two captains were very busily employed, as soon as they arrived in +St. Louis, with writing letters to their friends and to the officers +of the government who were concerned to know of their safe return to +civilization. Captain Lewis' letter to the President of the United +States, announcing his arrival, was dated Sept. 23, 1806. President +Jefferson's reply was dated October 20 of that year. In his letter the +President expressed his "unspeakable joy" at the safe return of the +expedition. He said that the unknown scenes in which they had been +engaged and the length of time during which no tidings had been received +from them "had begun to be felt awfully." It may seem strange to modern +readers familiar with the means for rapid travel and communication that +no news from the explorers, later than that which they sent from the +Mandan country, was received in the United States until their return, +two years and four months later. But mail facilities were very scanty +in those far-off days, even in the settled portions of the Mississippi +Valley, and few traders had then penetrated to those portions of the +Lower Missouri that had just been travelled by Lewis and Clark. As we +have seen, white men were regarded with awe and curiosity by the natives +of the regions which the explorers traversed in their long absence. The +first post-office in what is now the great city of St. Louis was not +established until 1808; mails between the Atlantic seaboard and that +"village" required six weeks to pass either way. + +The two captains went to Washington early in the year following their +arrival in St. Louis. There is extant a letter from Captain Lewis, +dated at Washington, Feb. 11, 1807. Congress was then in session, and, +agreeably to the promises that had been held out to the explorers, the +Secretary of War (General Henry Dearborn), secured from that body +the passage of an act granting to each member of the expedition a +considerable tract of land from the public domain. To each private +and non-commissioned officer was given three hundred acres; to Captain +Clark, one thousand acres, and to Captain Lewis fifteen hundred acres. +In addition to this, the two officers were given double pay for their +services during the time of their absence. Captain Lewis magnanimously +objected to receiving more land for his services than that given to +Captain Clark. + +Captain Lewis resigned from the army, March 2, 1807, having been +nominated to be Governor of Louisiana Territory a few days before. His +commission as Governor was dated March 3 of that year. He was thus +made the Governor of all the territory of the United States west of the +Mississippi River. About the same time, Captain Clark was appointed a +general of the territorial militia and Indian agent for that department. + +Originally, the territory acquired from France was divided into the +District of New Orleans and the District of Louisiana, the first-named +being the lower portion of the territory and bounded on the north by +a line which now represents the northern boundary of the State of +Louisiana; and all above that line was known as the District of +Louisiana. In 1812, the upper part, or Louisiana, was named the +Territory of Missouri, and Captain Clark (otherwise General), was +appointed Governor of the Territory, July 1, 1813, his old friend and +comrade having died a few years earlier. + +The end of Captain (otherwise Governor) Lewis was tragical and was +shadowed by a cloud. Official business calling him to Washington, he +left St. Louis early in September, 1809, and prosecuted his journey +eastward through Tennessee, by the way of Chickasaw Bluffs, now Memphis, +of that State. There is a mystery around his last days. On the eleventh +of October, he stopped at a wayside log-inn, and that night he died +a violent death, whether by his own hand or by that of a murderer, no +living man knows. There were many contradictory stories about the sad +affair, some persons holding to the one theory and some to the other. +He was buried where he died, in the centre of what is now Lewis County, +Tennessee. In 1848, the State of Tennessee erected over the last +resting-place of Lewis a handsome monument, the inscriptions on which +duly set forth his many virtues and his distinguished services to his +country. + +The story of the expedition of Lewis and Clark is the foundation of the +history of the great Northwest and the Missouri Valley. These men +and their devoted band of followers were the first to break into the +world-old solitudes of the heart of the continent and to explore +the mountain fastnesses in which the mighty Columbia has its birth. +Following in their footsteps, the hardy American emigrant, trader, +adventurer, and home-seeker penetrated the wilderness, and, building +better than they knew, laid the foundations of populous and thriving +States. Peaceful farms and noble cities, towns and villages, thrilling +with the hum of modern industry and activity, are spread over the vast +spaces through which the explorers threaded their toilsome trail, amid +incredible privations and hardships, showing the way westward across the +boundless continent which is ours. Let the names of those two men long +be held in grateful honor by the American people! + + + +INDEX + + A + + Alkali, natural deposits of, 60. + Antelope, first seen, 29, how hunted, 69. + Assiniboins, at war with Sioux, 49. + + B + + Beaver, hunted as game, 70, + Beaver Head, 143. + Big Dry River, 75. + Bismarck, N. D., 44. + Bitter Root Mountains, 147. + Black Cat, a Mandan chief, 342. + Boone, Daniel, 14. + Buffalo, first signs of, 16; hunt, 51; curious adventure with, 87; + extermination of, 338. + + C + + Caches, how built, 98. + Calumet bird, 43. + Camas, edible root, 179. + Cameahwait, a Shoshonee chief, 157. + Camp, first winter, 48; departure from, 57. + Candle-fish, 252. + Cannonball River, N. D-, 43. + Captain Cook, 3. + Captain Gray, 3. + Captain Vancouver, 3. + Carroll, Mont., 83. + Carver, Jonathan, 5. + Cascades of the Columbia, 262. + Cathedral Rocks, 90-92. + Cheyenne River, 40. + Chinook Indians, 208, some account of, 246. + Chouteau, a St. Louis trader, 355. + Christmas (1804), 52. (1805), 240- + Clark, Captain, biographical notice Of, 7. + general of militia, 359. + Clark's Fort, 48. + river, 180-63. + party overtaken by disaster, 142. + Clatsop Indians, some account Of, 248. + Clearwater River, 183. + Cloudburst, 116. + Columbia River, discovery Of, 4. + portage to, 108; + at the headwaters of, 148. + at the entrance to, 194. + great falls of, 202; + the great chute Of, 21. + et seq. Comowol, a Columbia River Indian + chief, 239. + Condor, a California variety, 256. + Council Bluffs, 19. + Cowas, an edible root, 278. + Coyote, described, 72. + Crow Indians, 24. + + D + + Dalles, the, 266. + Dearborn River, 130. + Divide, on the great, 148; + across the, 179. + Dog's flesh as an article of food, 24. + 185- + + E + + Echeloot Indians, 210. + Elk, hunting of, 251. + Ermine, first seen, 49. + Expedition, Lewis and Clark's, 7. + Organization of, 8. + route of, 10; + sets sail, 14. + "Experiment," failure of the boat, 124 + + F + + Falls of the Missouri, 101. + description of, 11. et seq. + Flathead Indians, 211. + Floyd's River, why so named, 23. + Forks of the Missouri, 135. + Fort Clark, 48. + Clatsop, 255. + + G + + Gallatin's fork of the Missouri, 135. + Gates of the Rocky Mountains, 132. + Goose-nests in trees, 61. + gray, Capt., discoverer of the Columbia, 3. + Grizzly bear, first seen, 40. + thrilling encounters with, 72, 76, 77, 105, 115, 315- + + H + + Horse-flesh eaten by the expedition, 77. + Hungry Creek, 178, 303- + + 1 + + Independence Day, celebration of (1805), 123. + (180(i), 327. + Iowa Indians, 16. + Islands, White Bear, 110. + + J + + Jefferson, President Thomas, 2-4. + his letters to Capt. Lewis, 12. + presents to, + from Lewis and Clark, 55. + welcome to Capt. Lewis on return, 358. + name given + to fork of the Missouri, 135. + John Day's River, 203- + + K + + Klikitat River, 214. + Kooskooskee River, 180. + + L + + Lewis, Capt., biographical notice of, 6, 7. + accidentally wounded, 341; + announces his return, 358. + Governor of Louisiana Territory, 359; + his tragical death, 360. + Lewis and Clark, pursue separate routes across + the Divide, 140. + also on their return, 310. + Lewis's River, 165. + + Lewiston, Idaho, 185. + Ledyard, John, 4. + Lemhi River, 152. + Little Devils, hill Of, 23. + Louisiana Purchase, the, 1-2; + divided into two territories, 360. + + M + + Madison, fork of the Missouri, 135. + Mandan Indians, 4. et seq.; + religion of, 50. + Maria's River, 97. + Medicine River, 106. + Meriwether's Bay, 234. + Milk River, 74. + Minnetarees, at war + with Sioux, 49. + expedition has an encounter with, 31. et seq, + Missouri River, Little, 60. + Missouri, the Upper, So; great falls of, 101; + forks of, 135. + at the headwaters Of, 147. + Mosquitoes, the great + plague of, 126, 339. + Mount St. Helen's, 198. + Hood, 203. + Mouse River, source of, 60. + Multnomah (Willamette) River, 221. + 259. + Musselshell River, 81. + + N + + Nez Perce Indians (Chopunnish), 180. + some account of the, 186. + Noises, mysterious, 122. + + 0 + + Osage Indians, traditions of, 15. + Ottoes, council with, 20. + + P + + Pacific Ocean, first sight of the, 225. + Pawpaw fruit, 357. + Pemmican, 33. + Platte River as a boundary, 17. + Porcupine River, 70. + Prairie dog, 29. + + Q Quamash flats, 302. + Quicksand River, 220. + + R + + Rat, peculiar variety of, 121. + Rickarees, in the country + of the, 40. + River, Little Missouri, to; Mouse, source of, 60; + Yellowstone, 65. + Porcupine, 70. + Saskatchewan, 74. + Milk, 74; + Big Dry, 75. + Upper Missouri, 80. + Musselshell, 81. + Slaughter, 88; + Maria's, 97. + Madison, 106. + Columbia, portage to, 108. + Smith's, 129; + Dearborn, 130. + Salmon, 152. + Lemhi, 152. + Lewis's, 165. + Kooskooskee, 180; + Clark's, 180. + Clearwater, 183. + Snake, 188. + Yakima, 196. + John Day'S, 203; + Klikitat, 21. + Quicksand, 220. + Multnomah. 220. + Rocky Mountains, + first sight of, 85. + sheep, 85. + gates of the, 132. + farewell to + the mountains, 335. + Rocks, Cathedral, 90-92. + + S + + St. Louis, village of, 11. + first post-office in, 359. + Sacajawea, joins the expedition, 4. + stream named for her, 82; + story of her capture, 138. + finds her own people, 160. + a tribute to + her memory, 332. + Sage-brush, first seen, 62. + Saline County, Mo., 16. + Salmon River, 152. + City, Idaho, 165. + abundance of fish, 194. + Salt, made from sea-water, 23. + et seq. Saskatchewan River, 74. + Shannon, the lost hunter, 143. + Shoshonees, first meeting with, 14. + among the, 15. + et seq.; some account of the, 17. + et seq. + Sioux Indians, 27. + Slaughter River, 88. + Smith's River, 128. + + Snake River, 188. + junction of the with Columbia, 190. + Sokulk Indians, some account of, 19. + et seq. Spirit Mound, 24. + Spring River, S. D-; 42. + Stone-Idol Creek, legend Of, 42. + Sweat baths, Indian, 187, 298. + + T + + Tetons, in the country of, 33-38. + Three-thousand-mile Island, 331. + Tillamook Indians, 244. + Traveller's-rest Creek, 309. + Twisted-hair, an Indian chief, adventures with, 28. et seq. + + U Umatilla, 271- + + V + + Vancouver, Capt-y 3- + + W + + Wahkiacum Indians, 224. + Walla Walla, 271. + Wappatoo, edible root, 23. + description of, 260. + Weocksockwillacums, 265. + Wharfington, commands return party to the U. S., 58. + White Bear Islands, 110. + camp at, 114. + Whisky, Indian rejection + of, 42. + Winter camp, first, 48. + departure from, 57- + + Y + + Yakima River, 196. + Yankton, S. D., 24. + Yellowstone River, 65; + Capt. Clark's descent of the, 327. + York, a negro servant, 41. 159. + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's First Across the Continent, by Noah Brooks + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FIRST ACROSS THE CONTINENT *** + +***** This file should be named 1236.txt or 1236.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/1/2/3/1236/ + +Produced by Charles Keller and David Widger + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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FOR PUBLIC DOMAIN ETEXTS*Ver.04.29.93*END* + + + + + +Scanned by Charles Keller with OmniPage Professional OCR software + +First Across the Continent + +The Story of +The Exploring Expedition of Lewis +and Clark in 1804-5-6 + +By Noah Brooks + + + + +First Across the Continent + + + + +Chapter I + +A Great Transaction in Land + +The people of the young Republic of the United States were greatly +astonished, in the summer of 1803, to learn that Napoleon Bonaparte, +then First Consul of France, had sold to us the vast tract +of land known as the country of Louisiana. The details of this +purchase were arranged in Paris (on the part of the United States) +by Robert R. Livingston and James Monroe. The French government +was represented by Barbe-Marbois, Minister of the Public Treasury. + +The price to be paid for this vast domain was fifteen million dollars. +The area of the country ceded was reckoned to be more than one million +square miles, greater than the total area of the United States, +as the Republic then existed. Roughly described, the territory +comprised all that part of the continent west of the Mississippi River, +bounded on the north by the British possessions and on the west and south +by dominions of Spain. This included the region in which now lie the States +of Louisiana, Arkansas, Missouri, Kansas, parts of Colorado, Minnesota, +the States of Iowa, Nebraska, South Dakota, North Dakota, Wyoming, a part +of Idaho, all of Montana and Territory of Oklahoma. At that time, +the entire population of the region, exclusive of the Indian +tribes that roamed over its trackless spaces, was barely ninety +thousand persons, of whom forty thousand were negro slaves. +The civilized inhabitants were principally French, or descendants +of French, with a few Spanish, Germans, English, and Americans. + +The purchase of this tremendous slice of territory could +not be complete without an approval of the bargain by +the United States Senate. Great opposition to this was +immediately excited by people in various parts of the Union, +especially in New England, where there was a very bitter feeling +against the prime mover in this business,--Thomas Jefferson, +then President of the United States. The scheme was +ridiculed by persons who insisted that the region was not +only wild and unexplored, but uninhabitable and worthless. +They derided "The Jefferson Purchase," as they called it, +as a useless piece of extravagance and folly; and, in addition +to its being a foolish bargain, it was urged that President Jefferson +had no right, under the constitution of the United States, +to add any territory to the area of the Republic. + +Nevertheless, a majority of the people were in favor of the purchase, +and the bargain was duly approved by the United States Senate; that body, +July 31, 1803, just three months after the execution of the treaty of cession, +formally ratified the important agreement between the two governments. +The dominion of the United States was now extended across the entire continent +of North America, reaching from the Atlantic to the Pacific. The Territory +of Oregon was already ours. + +This momentous transfer took place one hundred years ago, when almost +nothing was known of the region so summarily handed from the government +of France to the government of the American Republic. Few white men +had ever traversed those trackless plains, or scaled the frowning +ranges of mountains that barred the way across the continent. +There were living in the fastnesses of the mysterious interior +of the Louisiana Purchase many tribes of Indians who had never looked +in the face of the white man. + +Nor was the Pacific shore of the country any better known to civilized +man than was the region lying between that coast and the Big Muddy, +or Missouri River. Spanish voyagers, in 1602, had sailed as far north +as the harbors of San Diego and Monterey, in what is now California; +and other explorers, of the same nationality, in 1775, extended their +discoveries as far north as the fifty-eighth degree of latitude. +Famous Captain Cook, the great navigator of the Pacific seas, +in 1778, reached and entered Nootka Sound, and, leaving numerous +harbors and bays unexplored, he pressed on and visited the shores +of Alaska, then called Unalaska, and traced the coast as far north +as Icy Cape. Cold weather drove him westward across the Pacific, +and he spent the next winter at Owyhee, where, in February of +the following year, he was killed by the natives. + +All these explorers were looking for chances for fur-trading, +which was at that time the chief industry of the Pacific coast. +Curiously enough, they all passed by the mouth of the Columbia +without observing that there was the entrance to one of the finest +rivers on the American continent. + +Indeed, Captain Vancouver, a British explorer, who has left his name +on the most important island of the North Pacific coast, baffled by the +deceptive appearances of the two capes that guard the way to a noble stream +(Cape Disappointment and Cape Deception), passed them without a thought. +But Captain Gray, sailing the good ship "Columbia," of Boston, who coasted +those shores for more than two years, fully convinced that a strong current +which he observed off those capes came from a river, made a determined effort; +and on the 11th of May, 1792, he discovered and entered the great river +that now bears the name of his ship. At last the key that was to open +the mountain fastnesses of the heart of the continent had been found. +The names of the capes christened by Vancouver and re-christened by +Captain Gray have disappeared from our maps, but in the words of one of +the numerous editors[1] of the narrative of the exploring expedition of Lewis +and Clark: "The name of the good ship `Columbia,' it is not hard to believe, +will flow with the waters of the bold river as long as grass grows or water +runs in the valleys of the Rocky Mountains." + + +[1] Dr. Archibald McVickar. + + +It appears that the attention of President Jefferson had been early +attracted to the vast, unexplored domain which his wise foresight was +finally to add to the territory of the United States. While he was living +in Paris, as the representative of the United States, in 1785-89, he made +the acquaintance of John Ledyard, of Connecticut, the well-known explorer, +who had then in mind a scheme for the establishment of a fur-trading post on +the western coast of America. Mr. Jefferson proposed to Ledyard that the most +feasible route to the coveted fur-bearing lands would be through the Russian +possessions and downward somewhere near to the latitude of the then unknown +sources of the Missouri River, entering the United States by that route. +This scheme fell through on account of the obstacles thrown in Ledyard's +way by the Russian Government. A few years later, in 1792, Jefferson, +whose mind was apparently fixed on carrying out his project, proposed to +the American Philosophical Society of Philadelphia that a subscription should +be opened for the purpose of raising money "to engage some competent person +to explore that region in the opposite direction (from the Pacific coast),-- +that is, by ascending the Missouri, crossing the Stony [Rocky] Mountains, +and descending the nearest river to the Pacific." This was the hint from +which originated the famous expedition of Lewis and Clark. + +But the story-teller should not forget to mention that hardy +and adventurous explorer, Jonathan Carver. This man, the son +of a British officer, set out from Boston, in 1766, to explore +the wilderness north of Albany and lying along the southern shore +of the Great Lakes. He was absent two years and seven months, +and in that time he collected a vast amount of useful and +strange information, besides learning the language of the Indians +among whom he lived. He conceived the bold plan of travelling up +a branch of the Missouri (or "Messorie"), till, having discovered +the source of the traditional "Oregon, or River of the West," +on the western side of the lands that divide the continent, +"he would have sailed down that river to the place where it +is said to empty itself, near the Straits of Anian." + +By the Straits of Anian, we are to suppose, were meant some part +of Behring's Straits, separating Asia from the American continent. +Carver's fertile imagination, stimulated by what he knew +of the remote Northwest, pictured that wild region where, +according to a modern poet, "rolls the Oregon and hears no sound +save his own dashing." But Carver died without the sight; +in his later years, he said of those who should follow his lead: +"While their spirits are elated by their success, perhaps they +may bestow some commendations and blessings on the person +who first pointed out to them the way." + + + +Chapter II + +Beginning a Long Journey + +In 1803, availing himself of a plausible pretext to send out an +exploring expedition, President Jefferson asked Congress to appropriate +a small sum of money ($2,500) for the execution of his purpose. +At that time the cession of the Louisiana Territory had not been completed; +but matters were in train to that end, and before the expedition +was fairly started on its long journey across the continent, +the Territory was formally ceded to the United States. + +Meriwether Lewis, a captain in the army, was selected by +Jefferson to lead the expedition. Captain Lewis was a native +of Virginia, and at that time was only twenty-nine years old. +He had been Jefferson's private secretary for two years and was, +of course, familiar with the President's plans and expectations +as these regarded the wonder-land which Lewis was to enter. +It is pleasant to quote here Mr. Jefferson's words concerning +Captain Lewis. In a memoir of that distinguished young officer, +written after his death, Jefferson said: "Of courage undaunted; +possessing a firmness and perseverance of purpose which +nothing but impossibilities could divert from its direction; +careful as a father of those committed to his charge, +yet steady in the maintenance of order and discipline; +intimate with the Indian character, customs and principles; +habituated to the hunting life; guarded, by exact observation +of the vegetables and animals of his own country, against losing +time in the description of objects already possessed; +honest, disinterested, liberal, of sound understanding, +and a fidelity to truth so scrupulous that whatever he should +report would be as certain as if seen by ourselves--with all +these qualifications, as if selected and implanted by nature +in one body for this express purpose, I could have no hesitation +in confiding the enterprise to him." + +Before we have finished the story of Meriwether Lewis and his companions, +we shall see that this high praise of the youthful commander +was well deserved. + +For a coadjutor and comrade Captain Lewis chose William Clark,[1] also a +native of Virginia, and then about thirty-three years old. Clark, like Lewis, +held a commission in the military service of the United States, and his +appointment as one of the leaders of the expedition with which his name +and that of Lewis will ever be associated, made the two men equal in rank. +Exactly how there could be two captains commanding the same expedition, +both of the same military and actual rank, without jar or quarrel, +we cannot understand; but it is certain that the two young men got on +together harmoniously, and no hint or suspicion of any serious disagreement +between the two captains during their long and arduous service has come +down to us from those distant days. + + +[1] It is a little singular that Captain Clark's name has been +so persistently misspelled by historians and biographers. +Even in most of the published versions of the story of the Lewis +and Clark expedition, the name of one of the captains is +spelled Clarke. Clark's own signature, of which many are +in existence, is without the final and superfluous vowel; +and the family name, for generations past, does not show it. + + +As finally organized, the expedition was made up of the two captains +(Lewis and Clark) and twenty-six men. These were nine young men +from Kentucky, who were used to life on the frontier among Indians; +fourteen soldiers of the United States Army, selected from many who +eagerly volunteered their services; two French voyageurs, or watermen, +one of whom was an interpreter of Indian language, and the other +a hunter; and one black man, a servant of Captain Clark. All these, +except the negro servant, were regularly enlisted as privates +in the military service of the United States during the expedition; +and three of them were by the captains appointed sergeants. +In addition to this force, nine voyageurs and a corporal and six +private soldiers were detailed to act as guides and assistants +until the explorers should reach the country of the Mandan Indians, +a region lying around the spot where is now situated the flourishing +city of Bismarck, the capital of North Dakota. It was expected +that if hostile Indians should attack the explorers anywhere within +the limits of the little-known parts through which they were to make +their way, such attacks were more likely to be made below the Mandan +country than elsewhere. + +The duties of the explorers were numerous and important. They were to explore +as thoroughly as possible the country through which they were to pass; +making such observations of latitude and longitude as would be needed +when maps of the region should be prepared by the War Department; +observing the trade, commerce, tribal relations, manners and customs, +language, traditions, and monuments, habits and industrial pursuits, +diseases and laws of the Indian nations with whom they might come in contact; +note the floral, mineral, and animal characteristics of the country, and, +above all, to report whatever might be of interest to citizens who might +thereafter be desirous of opening trade relations with those wild tribes +of which almost nothing was then distinctly known. + +The list of articles with which the explorers were provided, +to aid them in establishing peaceful relations with the Indians, +might amuse traders of the present day. But in those primitive times, +and among peoples entirely ignorant of the white man's +riches and resources, coats richly laced with gilt braid, +red trousers, medals, flags, knives, colored handkerchiefs, +paints, small looking-glasses, beads and tomahawks were believed +to be so attractive to the simple-minded red man that he would +gladly do much and give much of his own to win such prizes. +Of these fine things there were fourteen large bales and one box. +The stores of the expedition were clothing, working tools, +fire-arms, food supplies, powder, ball, lead for bullets, +and flints for the guns then in use, the old-fashioned +flint-lock rifle and musket being still in vogue in our country; +for all of this was at the beginning of the present century. + +As the party was to begin their long journey by ascending the +Missouri River, their means of travel were provided in three boats. +The largest, a keel-boat, fifty-five feet long and drawing +three feet of water, carried a big square sail and twenty-two +seats for oarsmen. On board this craft was a small swivel gun. +The other two boats were of that variety of open craft known +as pirogue, a craft shaped like a flat-iron, square-sterned, +flat-bottomed, roomy, of light draft, and usually provided with four +oars and a square sail which could be used when the wind was aft, +and which also served as a tent, or night shelter, on shore. +Two horses, for hunting or other occasional service, were led +along the banks of the river. + +As we have seen, President Jefferson, whose master mind organized and +devised this expedition, had dwelt longingly on the prospect of crossing +the continent from the headwaters of the Missouri to the headwaters +of the then newly-discovered Columbia. The route thus explored was more +difficult than that which was later travelled by the first emigrants +across the continent to California. That route lies up the Platte River, +through what is known as the South Pass of the Rocky Mountains, +by Great Salt Lake and down the valley of the Humboldt into California, +crossing the Sierra Nevada at any one of several points leading +into the valley of the Sacramento. The route, which was opened +by the gold-seekers, was followed by the first railroads built across +the continent. The route that lay so firmly in Jefferson's mind, +and which was followed up with incredible hardships by the Lewis +and Clark expedition, has since been traversed by two railroads, +built after the first transcontinental rails were laid. +If Jefferson had desired to find the shortest and most feasible +route across the continent, he would have pointed to the South Pass +and Utah basin trails. But these would have led the explorers +into California, then and long afterwards a Spanish possession. +The entire line finally traced over the Great Divide lay within +the territory of the United States. + +But it must be remembered that while the expedition was being organized, +the vast Territory of Louisiana was as yet a French possession. Before the +party were brought together and their supplies collected, the territory passed +under the jurisdiction of the United States. Nevertheless, that jurisdiction +was not immediately acknowledged by the officials who, up to that time, +had been the representatives of the French and Spanish governments. +Part of the territory was transferred from Spain to France and then +from France to the United States. It was intended that the exploring +party should pass the winter of 1803-4 in St. Louis, then a mere village +which had been commonly known as Pain Court. But the Spanish governor +of the province had not been officially told that the country had been +transferred to the United States, and, after the Spanish manner, +he forbade the passage of the Americans through his jurisdiction. +In those days communication between frontier posts and points lying far +to the eastward of the Mississippi was very difficult; it required six +weeks to carry the mails between New York, Philadelphia, and Washington +to St. Louis; and this was the reason why a treaty, ratified in July, +was not officially heard of in St. Louis as late as December of that year. +The explorers, shut out of Spanish territory, recrossed the Mississippi +and wintered at the mouth of Wood River, just above St. Louis, +on the eastern side of the great river, in United States territory. +As a matter of record, it may be said here that the actual transfer +of the lower part of the territory--commonly known as Orleans--took place +at New Orleans, December 20, 1803, and the transfer of the upper part +was effected at St. Louis, March 10, 1804, before the Lewis and Clark +expedition had started on its long journey to the northwestward. + +All over the small area of the United States then existed a deep +interest in the proposed explorations of the course and sources of the +Missouri River. The explorers were about to plunge into vast solitudes of +which white people knew less than we know now about the North Polar country. +Wild and extravagant stories of what was to be seen in those trackless +regions were circulated in the States. For example, it was said that Lewis +and Clark expected to find the mammoth of prehistoric times still living +and wandering in the Upper Missouri region; and it was commonly reported +that somewhere, a thousand miles or so up the river, was a solid mountain +of rock salt, eighty miles long and forty-five miles wide, destitute of +vegetation and glittering in the sun! These, and other tales like these, +were said to be believed and doted upon by the great Jefferson himself. +The Federalists, or "Feds," as they were called, who hated Jefferson, +pretended to believe that he had invented some of these foolish yarns, +hoping thereby to make his Louisiana purchase more popular in the Republic. + +In his last letter to Captain Lewis, which was to reach the explorers +before they started, Jefferson said: "The acquisition of the +country through which you are to pass has inspired the country +generally with a great deal of interest in your enterprise. +The inquiries are perpetual as to your progress. The Feds alone +still treat it as a philosophism, and would rejoice at its failure. +Their bitterness increases with the diminution of their numbers +and despair of a resurrection. I hope you will take care +of yourself, and be a living witness of their malice and folly." +Indeed, after the explorers were lost sight of in the wilderness +which they were to traverse, many people in the States declaimed +bitterly against the folly that had sent these unfortunate men +to perish miserably in the fathomless depths of the continent. +They no longer treated it "as a philosophism," or wild prank, +but as a wicked scheme to risk life and property in a search +for the mysteries of the unknown and unknowable. + +As a striking illustration of this uncertainty of the outcome +of the expedition, which exercised even the mind of Jefferson, +it may be said that in his instructions to Captain Lewis he said: +"Our Consuls, Thomas Hewes, at Batavia in Java, William Buchanan +in the isles of France and Bourbon, and John Elmslie at the Cape of +Good Hope, will be able to supply your necessities by drafts on us." +All this seems strange enough to the young reader of the present day; +but this was said and done one hundred years ago. + + + +Chapter III + +From the Lower to the Upper River + +The party finally set sail up the Missouri River on Monday, May 21, +1804, but made only a few miles, owing to head winds. +Four days later they camped near the last white settlement on +the Missouri,--La Charrette, a little village of seven poor houses. +Here lived Daniel Boone, the famous Kentucky backwoodsman, +then nearly seventy years old, but still vigorous, erect, and strong +of limb. Here and above this place the explorers began +to meet with unfamiliar Indian tribes and names. For example, +they met two canoes loaded with furs "from the Mahar nation." +The writer of the Lewis and Clark journal, upon whose notes +we rely for our story, made many slips of this sort. +By "Mahars" we must understand that the Omahas were meant. +We shall come across other such instances in which the strangers +mistook the pronunciation of Indian names. For example, +Kansas was by them misspelled as "Canseze" and "Canzan;" and there +appear some thirteen or fourteen different spellings of Sioux, +of which one of the most far-fetched is "Scouex." + +The explorers were now in a country unknown to them and almost +unknown to any white man. On the thirty-first of May, a messenger +came down the Grand Osage River bringing a letter from a person +who wrote that the Indians, having been notified that the country +had been ceded to the Americans, burned the letter containing +the tidings, refusing to believe the report. The Osage Indians, +through whose territory they were now passing, were among the largest +and finest-formed red men of the West. Their name came from the +river along which they warred and hunted, but their proper title, +as they called themselves, was "the Wabashas," and from them, +in later years, we derive the familiar name of Wabash. A curious +tradition of this people, according to the journal of Lewis and Clark, +is that the founder of the nation was a snail, passing a quiet +existence along the banks of the Osage, till a high flood swept +him down to the Missouri, and left him exposed on the shore. +The heat of the sun at length ripened him into a man; +but with the change of his nature he had not forgotten his native +seats on the Osage, towards which he immediately bent his way. +He was, however, soon overtaken by hunger and fatigue, when happily, +the Great Spirit appeared, and, giving him a bow and arrow, +showed him how to kill and cook deer, and cover himself with the skin. +He then proceeded to his original residence; but as he approached +the river he was met by a beaver, who inquired haughtily who he was, +and by what authority he came to disturb his possession. The Osage +answered that the river was his own, for he had once lived on its borders. +As they stood disputing, the daughter of the beaver came, and having, +by her entreaties, reconciled her father to this young stranger, +it was proposed that the Osage should marry the young beaver, +and share with her family the enjoyment of the river. +The Osage readily consented, and from this happy union there +soon came the village and the nation of the Wabasha, or Osages, +who have ever since preserved a pious reverence for their ancestors, +abstaining from the chase of the beaver, because in killing that +animal they killed a brother of the Osage. Of late years, however, +since the trade with the whites has rendered beaver-skins more valuable, +the sanctity of these maternal relatives has been visibly reduced, +and the poor animals have lost all the privileges of kindred. + +Game was abundant all along the river as the explorers +sailed up the stream. Their hunters killed numbers of deer, +and at the mouth of Big Good Woman Creek, which empties into +the Missouri near the present town of Franklin, Howard County, +three bears were brought into the camp. Here, too, they began +to find salt springs, or "salt licks," to which many wild +animals resorted for salt, of which they were very fond. +Saline County, Missouri, perpetuates the name given to the region +by Lewis and Clark. Traces of buffalo were also found here, +and occasional wandering traders told them that the Indians had +begun to hunt the buffalo now that the grass had become abundant +enough to attract this big game from regions lying further south. + +By the tenth of June the party had entered the country of the +Ayauway nation. This was an easy way of spelling the word now +familiar to us as "Iowa." But before that spelling was reached, +it was Ayaway, Ayahwa, Iawai, Iaway, and soon. The remnants of this +once powerful tribe now number scarcely two hundred persons. +In Lewis and Clark's time, they were a large nation, with several +hundred warriors, and were constantly at war with their neighbors. +Game here grew still more abundant, and in addition to deer and bear +the hunters brought in a raccoon. One of these hunters brought into +camp a wild tale of a snake which, he said, "made a guttural noise +like a turkey." One of the French voyageurs confirmed this story; +but the croaking snake was never found and identified. + +On the twenty-fourth of June the explorers halted to prepare some of the meat +which their hunters brought in. Numerous herds of deer were feeding +on the abundant grass and young willows that grew along the river banks. +The meat, cut in small strips, or ribbons, was dried quickly in the hot sun. +This was called "jirked" meat. Later on the word was corrupted into "jerked," +and "jerked beef" is not unknown at the present day. The verb "jerk" +is corrupted from the Chilian word, charqui, meaning sun-dried meat; +but it is not easy to explain how the Chilian word got into the Northwest. + +As the season advanced, the party found many delicious wild fruits, +such as currants, plums, raspberries, wild apples, and vast quantities +of mulberries. Wild turkeys were also found in large numbers, +and the party had evidently entered a land of plenty. +Wild geese were abundant, and numerous tracks of elk were seen. +But we may as well say here that the, so-called elk of the Northwest +is not the elk of ancient Europe; a more correct and distinctive name +for this animal is wapiti, the name given the animal by the Indians. +The European elk more closely resembles the American moose. +Its antlers are flat, low, and palmated like our moose; +whereas the antlers of the American elk, so-called, are long, +high, and round-shaped with many sharp points or tines. +The mouth of the great Platte River was reached on the twenty-first +of July. This famous stream was then regarded as a sort +of boundary line between the known and unknown regions. +As mariners crossing the equator require all their comrades, +who have not been "over the line" to submit to lathering and shaving, +so the Western voyageurs merrily compelled their mates to submit +to similar horse-play. The great river was also the mark above +which explorers entered upon what was called the Upper Missouri. + +The expedition was now advancing into a region inhabited by several +wandering tribes of Indians, chief of which were the Ottoes, Missouris, +and Pawnees. It was determined, therefore, to call a council of some +of the chiefs of these bands and make terms of peace with them. +After some delay, the messengers sent out to them brought in fourteen +representative Indians, to whom the white men made presents +of roast meat, pork, flour, and corn-meal, in return for which +their visitors brought them quantities of delicious watermelons. +"Next day, August 3," says the journal, "the Indians, with their +six chiefs, were all assembled under an awning formed with the mainsail, +in presence of all our party, paraded for the occasion. +A speech was then made, announcing to them the change in the government, +our promises of protection, and advice as to their future conduct. +All the six chiefs replied to our speech, each in his turn, according +to rank. They expressed their joy at the change in the government; +their hopes that we would recommend them to their Great Father +(the president), that they might obtain trade and necessaries: +they wanted arms as well for hunting as for defence, and asked our +mediation between them and the Mahas, with whom they are now at war. +We promised to do so, and wished some of them to accompany us +to that nation, which they declined, for fear of being killed +by them. We then proceeded to distribute our presents. +The grand chief of the nation not being of the party, +we sent him a flag, a medal, and some ornaments for clothing. +To the six chiefs who were present, we gave a medal of the second +grade to one Ottoe chief and one Missouri chief; a medal of the third +grade to two inferior chiefs of each nation; the customary mode +of recognizing a chief being to place a medal round his neck, which is +considered among his tribe as a proof of his consideration abroad. +Each of these medals was accompanied by a present of paint, +garters, and cloth ornaments of dress; and to this we added +a canister of powder, a bottle of whiskey, and a few presents +to the whole, which appeared to make them perfectly satisfied. +The air-gun, too, was fired, and astonished them greatly. +The absent grand chief was an Ottoe, named Weahrushhah, which, +in English, degenerates into Little Thief. The two principal +chieftains present were Shongotongo, or Big Horse, and Wethea, +or Hospitality; also Shosguscan, or White Horse, an Ottoe; +the first an Ottoe, the second a Missouri. The incidents just related +induced us to give to this place the name of the Council Bluffs: +the situation of it is exceedingly favorable for a fort and +trading factory, as the soil is well calculated for bricks, +and there is an abundance of wood in the neighborhood, and the air +being pure and healthy." + +Of course the reader will recognize, in the name given +to this place by Lewis and Clark, the flourishing modern city +of Council Bluffs, Iowa. Nevertheless, as a matter of fact, +the council took place on the Nebraskan or western side of the river, +and the meeting-place was at some distance above the site +of the present city of Council Bluffs. + +Above Council Bluffs the explorers found the banks of the river to be +high and bluffy, and on one of the highlands which they passed they +saw the burial-place of Blackbird, one of the great men of the Mahars, +or Omahas, who had died of small-pox. A mound, twelve feet in diameter +and six feet high, had been raised over the grave, and on a tall +pole at the summit the party fixed a flag of red, white, and blue. +The place was regarded as sacred by the Omahas, who kept the dead +chieftain well supplied with provisions. The small-pox had caused +great mortality among the Indians; and a few years before the white +men's visit, when the fell disease had destroyed four hundred men, +with a due proportion of women and children, the survivors burned +their village and fled. + +"They had been a military and powerful people; but when these warriors +saw their strength wasting before a malady which they could not resist, +their frenzy was extreme; they burned their village, and many of them put +to death their wives and children, to save them from so cruel an affliction, +and that all might go together to some better country." + +In Omaha, or Mahar Creek, the explorers made their first experiment +in dragging the stream for fish. With a drag of willows, loaded +with stones, they succeeded in catching a great variety of fine fish, +over three hundred at one haul, and eight hundred at another. +These were pike, bass, salmon-trout, catfish, buffalo fish, perch, +and a species of shrimp, all of which proved an acceptable +addition to their usual flesh bill-of-fare. + +Desiring to call in some of the surrounding Indian tribes, +they here set fire to the dry prairie grass, that being the customary +signal for a meeting of different bands of roving peoples. +In the afternoon of August 18, a party of Ottoes, headed by Little Thief +and Big Horse, came in, with six other chiefs and a French interpreter. +The journal says:-- + +"We met them under a shade, and after they had finished a repast with which we +supplied them, we inquired into the origin of the war between them and +the Mahas, which they related with great frankness. It seems that two of +the Missouris went to the Mahas to steal horses, but were detected and killed; +the Ottoes and Missouris thought themselves bound to avenge their companions, +and the whole nations were at last obliged to share in the dispute. +They are also in fear of a war from the Pawnees, whose village they entered +this summer, while the inhabitants were hunting, and stole their corn. +This ingenuous confession did not make us the less desirous of negotiating +a peace for them; but no Indians have as yet been attracted by our fire. +The evening was closed by a dance; and the next day, the chiefs +and warriors being assembled at ten o'clock, we explained the speech +we had already sent from the Council Bluffs, and renewed our advice. +They all replied in turn, and the presents were then distributed. +We exchanged the small medal we had formerly given to the Big Horse for one +of the same size with that of Little Thief: we also gave a small medal +to a third chief, and a kind of certificate or letter of acknowledgment +to five of the warriors expressive of our favor and their good intentions. +One of them, dissatisfied, returned us the certificate; but the chief, +fearful of our being offended, begged that it might be restored to him; +this we declined, and rebuked them severely for having in view mere traffic +instead of peace with their neighbors. This displeased them at first; +but they at length all petitioned that it should be given to the warrior, +who then came forward and made an apology to us; we then delivered it +to the chief to be given to the most worthy, and he bestowed it on +the same warrior, whose name was Great Blue Eyes. After a more substantial +present of small articles and tobacco, the council was ended with a dram +to the Indians. In the evening we exhibited different objects of curiosity, +and particularly the air-gun, which gave them great surprise. Those people +are almost naked, having no covering except a sort of breech-cloth round +the middle, with a loose blanket or buffalo robe, painted, thrown over them. +The names of these warriors, besides those already mentioned, were Karkapaha, +or Crow's Head, and Nenasawa, or Black Cat, Missouris; and Sananona, +or Iron Eyes, Neswaunja, or Big Ox, Stageaunja, or Big Blue Eyes, +and Wasashaco, or Brave Man, all Ottoes." + + + +Chapter IV + +Novel Experiences among the Indians + +About this time (the nineteenth and twentieth of August), the explorers lost +by death the only member of their party who did not survive the journey. +Floyd River, which flows into the Upper Missouri, in the northwest corner +of Iowa, still marks the last resting-place of Sergeant Charles Floyd, +who died there of bilious colic and was buried by his comrades near +the mouth of the stream. Near here was a quarry of red pipestone, +dear to the Indian fancy as a mine of material for their pipes; +traces of this deposit still remain. So fond of this red rock were +the Indians that when they went there to get the stuff, even lifelong +and vindictive enemies declared a truce while they gathered the material, +and savage hostile tribes suspended their wars for a time. + +On the north side of the Missouri, at a point in what is now known +as Clay County, South Dakota, Captains Lewis and Clark, with ten men, +turned aside to see a great natural curiosity, known to the Indians +as the Hill of Little Devils. The hill is a singular mound in the midst +of a flat prairie, three hundred yards long, sixty or seventy yards wide, +and about seventy feet high. The top is a smooth level plain. +The journal says:-- + +"The Indians have made it a great article of their superstition: +it is called the Mountain of Little People, or Little Spirits; +and they believe that it is the abode of little devils, in the human form, +of about eighteen inches high, and with remarkably large heads; +they are armed with sharp arrows, with which they are very skilful, +and are always on the watch to kill those who should have the hardihood +to approach their residence. The tradition is, that many have +suffered from these little evil spirits, and, among others, +three Maha Indians fell a sacrifice to them a few years since. +This has inspired all the neighboring nations, Sioux, Mahas, and Ottoes, +with such terror, that no consideration could tempt them to visit the hill. +We saw none of these wicked little spirits, nor any place for them, +except some small holes scattered over the top; we were happy enough +to escape their vengeance, though we remained some time on the mound +to enjoy the delightful prospect of the plain, which spreads itself +out till the eye rests upon the northwest hills at a great distance, +and those of the northeast, still farther off, enlivened by large +herds of buffalo feeding at a distance." + +The present residents of the region, South Dakota, have preserved +the Indian tradition, and Spirit Mound may be seen on modern maps +of that country. + +Passing on their way up the Missouri, the explorers found several +kinds of delicious wild plums and vast quantities of grapes; +and here, too, they passed the mouth of the Yankton River, +now known as the Dakota, at the mouth of which is the modern +city of Yankton, South Dakota. The Yankton-Sioux Indians, +numbering about one thousand people, inhabited this part +of the country, and near here the white men were met by a large +band of these Sioux who had come in at the invitation of Lewis +and Clark. The messengers from the white men reported that they +had been well received by the Indians, who, as a mark of respect, +presented their visitors with "a fat dog, already cooked, +of which they partook heartily and found it well-flavored." +From this time, according to the journal, the explorers +tasted occasionally of roast dog, and later on they adopted +this dish as a regular feature of their bill-of-fare. They +do tell us, however, that they had some difficulty in getting +used to so novel an article of food. + +The Sioux and the white men held a grand council under an +oak-tree, from the top of which was flying the American flag. +The head chief was presented with a gold-laced uniform of +the United States artillery, a cocked hat and red feather. +The lesser chiefs were also presented with suitable gifts +of lesser value. Various festivities followed the conference. +Next day another powwow was held at which the head chief, +Weucha, or Shake Hand, said:-- + +" `I see before me my great father's two sons. +You see me and the rest of our chiefs and warriors. +We are very poor; we have neither powder, nor ball, nor knives; +and our women and children at the village have no clothes. +I wish that, as my brothers have given me a flag and a medal, +they would give something to those poor people, or let them +stop and trade with the first boat which comes up the river. +I will bring the chiefs of the Pawnees and Mahas together, and make +peace between them; but it is better that I should do it than my +great father's sons, for they will listen to me more readily. +I will also take some chiefs to your country in the spring; +but before that time I cannot leave home. I went formerly +to the English, and they gave me a medal and some clothes: +when I went to the Spaniards they gave me a medal, but nothing +to keep it from my skin: but now you give me a medal and clothes. +But still we are poor; and I wish, brothers, you would give us +something for our squaws.' + +When he sat down, Mahtoree, or White Crane, rose: + +" `I have listened,' said he, `to what our father's words were yesterday; +and I am to-day glad to see how you have dressed our old chief. +I am a young man, and do not wish to take much; my fathers have made me +a chief; I had much sense before, but now I think I have more than ever. +What the old chief has declared I will confirm, and do whatever +he and you please; but I wish that you would take pity on us, for we +are very poor.' + +"Another chief, called Pawnawneahpahbe, then said: + +" `I am a young man, and know but little; I cannot speak well, +but I have listened to what you have told the old chief, +and will do whatever you agree.' + +"The same sentiments were then repeated by Aweawechache. + +"We were surprised," the journal says, "at finding that the first of +these titles means Struck by the Pawnee, and was occasioned by some blow +which the chief had received in battle from one of the Pawnee tribe. +The second is in English Half Man, which seemed a singular name for a warrior, +till it was explained to have its origin, probably, in the modesty +of the chief, who, on being told of his exploits, would say, `I am +no warrior, I am only half a man.' The other chiefs spoke very little; +but after they had finished, one of the warriors delivered a speech, +in which he declared he would support them. They promised to make peace +with the Ottoes and Missouris, the only nations with whom they are at war. +All these harangues concluded by describing the distress of the nation: +they begged us to have pity on them; to send them traders; that they +wanted powder and ball; and seemed anxious that we should supply +them with some of their great father's milk, the name by which they +distinguish ardent spirits. We gave some tobacco to each of the chiefs, +and a certificate to two of the warriors who attended the chief We +prevailed on M. Durion [interpreter] to remain here, and accompany as +many of the Sioux chiefs as he could collect to the seat of government. +We also gave his son a flag, some clothes, and provisions, with directions +to bring about a peace between the surrounding tribes, and to convey +some of their chiefs to see the President. + +"The Indians who have just left us are the Yanktons, a tribe of the great +nation of Sioux. These Yanktons are about two hundred men in number, +and inhabit the Jacques, Des Moines, and Sioux Rivers. In person they +are stout, well proportioned, and have a certain air of dignity and boldness. +In their dress they differ nothing from the other bands of the nation whom +we met afterwards." + +Of the Sioux let us say here, there are many bands, or subdivisions. +Some writers make eighteen of these principal branches. +But the first importance is given to the Sioux proper, +or Dakotas. The name "Sioux" is one of reproach, given by their enemies, +and signifies "snake;" whereas "Dakota" means "friend" or "ally." +The Lewis and Clark journal says of the Yankton-Sioux:-- + +"What struck us most was an institution peculiar to them and to +the Kite (Crow) Indians further to the westward, from whom it is said +to have been copied. It is an association of the most active and brave +young men, who are bound to each other by attachment, secured by a vow, +never to retreat before any danger, or give way to their enemies. +In war they go forward without sheltering themselves behind trees, or aiding +their natural valor by any artifice. Their punctilious determination +not to be turned from their course became heroic, or ridiculous, a short +time since, when the Yanktons were crossing the Missouri on the ice. +A hole lay immediately in their course, which might easily have been +avoided by going around. This the foremost of the band disdained to do, +but went straight forward and was lost. The others would have followed +his example, but were forcibly prevented by the rest of the tribe. +These young men sit, camp, and dance together, distinct from the rest +of the nation; they are generally about thirty or thirty-five years old, +and such is the deference paid to courage that their seats in council +are superior to those of the chiefs and their persons more respected. +But, as may be supposed, such indiscreet bravery will soon +diminish the numbers of those who practise it; so that the band +is now reduced to four warriors, who were among our visitors. +These were the remains of twenty-two who composed the society not long ago; +but, in a battle with the Kite (Crow) Indians of the Black Mountains, +eighteen of them were killed, and these four were dragged from the field +by their companions." + +Just above the site of the city of Yankton, and near +what is still known as Bon Homme Island, Captain Clark +explored a singular earth formation in a bend of the river. +This had all the appearance of an ancient fortification, +stretching across the bend and furnished with redoubts +and other features of a great fort. In the journal is given +a glowing account of the work and an elaborate map of the same. +Modern research, however, has proved that this strange +arrangement of walls and parapets is only a series of sand ridges +formed by the currents of the river and driftings of sand. +Many of these so-called earthworks are situated on the west +bank of the Upper Missouri, in North Dakota and South Dakota. + +A few days later, the party saw a species of animal which they +described as "goats,"--very fleet, with short pronged horns inclining +backward, and with grayish hair, marked with white on the rump. +This creature, however, was the American antelope, then unknown +to science, and first described by Lewis and Clark. While visiting +a strange dome-shaped mountain, "resembling a cupola," and now known +as "the Tower," the explorers found the abode of another animal, +heretofore unknown to them. "About four acres of ground," +says the journal, "was covered with small holes." The account continues: +"These are the residence of a little animal, called by the French +petit chien (little dog), which sit erect near the mouth, and make +a whistling noise, but, when alarmed, take refuge in their holes. +In order to bring them out we poured into one of the holes five barrels +of water without filling it, but we dislodged and caught the owner. +After digging down another of the holes for six feet, we found, +on running a pole into it, that we had not yet dug half-way to the bottom: +we discovered, however, two frogs in the hole, and near it we killed +a dark rattlesnake, which had swallowed a small prairie dog. +We were also informed, though we never witnessed the fact, +that a sort of lizard and a snake live habitually with these animals. +The petit chien are justly named, as they resemble a small dog +in some particulars, although they have also some points of similarity +to the squirrel. The head resembles the squirrel in every respect, +except that the ear is shorter; the tail like that of the ground squirrel; +the toe nails are long, the fur is fine, and the long hair is gray." + +Great confusion has been caused in the minds of readers on account +of there being another burrowing animal, called by Lewis and Clark "the +burrowing squirrel," which resembles the petit chien in some respects. +But the little animal described here is now well known as the prairie-dog,--an +unfortunate and misleading name. It is in no sense a species of dog. +The creature commonly weighs about three pounds, and its note resembles that +of a toy-dog. It is a species of marmot; it subsists on grass roots and other +vegetable products; its flesh is delicate and, when fat, of good flavor. +The writer of these lines, when crossing the great plains, in early times, +found the "prairie-dogs" excellent eating, but difficult to kill; +they are expert at diving into their holes at the slightest signal of danger. + +The following days they saw large herds of buffalo, and the copses +of timber appeared to contain elk and deer. "just below Cedar Island," +adds the journal, "on a hill to the south, is the backbone of a fish, +forty-five feet long, tapering towards the tail, and in a perfect +state of petrifaction, fragments of which were collected +and sent to Washington." This was not a fish, but the fossil +remains of a reptile of one of the earliest geological periods. +Here, too, the party saw immense herds of buffalo, thousands in number, +some of which they killed for their meat and skins. They also +saw elk, deer, turkeys, grouse, beaver, and prairie-dogs. The journal +bitterly complains of the "moschetoes," which were very troublesome. +As mosquitoes we now know them. + +Oddly enough, the journal sometimes speaks of "goats" and sometimes +of "antelopes," and the same animal is described in both instances. +Here is a good story of the fleetness of the beautiful creature:-- + +"Of all the animals we had seen, the antelope seems to possess the most +wonderful fleetness. Shy and timorous, they generally repose only on +the ridges, which command a view of all the approaches of an enemy: +the acuteness of their sight distinguishes the most distant danger; +the delicate sensibility of their smell defeats the precautions +of concealment; and, when alarmed, their rapid career seems +more like the flight of birds than the movements of a quadruped. +After many unsuccessful attempts, Captain Lewis at last, by winding +around the ridges, approached a party of seven, which were on +an eminence towards which the wind was unfortunately blowing. +The only male of the party frequently encircled the summit of the hill, +as if to announce any danger to the females, which formed a group at the top. +Although they did not see Captain Lewis, the smell alarmed them, +and they fled when he was at the distance of two hundred yards: +he immediately ran to the spot where they had been; a ravine concealed +them from him; but the next moment they appeared on a second ridge, +at the distance of three miles. He doubted whether they could be the same; +but their number, and the extreme rapidity with which they continued +their course, convinced him that they must have gone with a speed equal +to that of the most distinguished race-horse. Among our acquisitions +to-day were a mule-deer, a magpie, a common deer, and buffalo: +Captain Lewis also saw a hare, and killed a rattlesnake near the burrows +of the barking squirrels." + +By "barking squirrels" the reader must understand that the animal better known +as the prairie-dog is meant; and the mule-deer, as the explorers called it, +was not a hybrid, but a deer with very long ears, better known afterwards +as the black-tailed deer." + +At the Big Bend of the Missouri, in the heart of what is now South Dakota, +while camped on a sand-bar, the explorers had a startling experience. +"Shortly after midnight," says the journal, "the sleepers were startled by +the sergeant on guard crying out that the sand-bar was sinking, and the alarm +was timely given; for scarcely had they got off with the boats before the bank +under which they had been lying fell in; and by the time the opposite +shore was reached, the ground on which they had been encamped sunk also. +A man who was sent to step off the distance across the head of the bend, +made it but two thousand yards, while its circuit is thirty miles." + +The next day, three Sioux boys swam the river and told them that two +parties of their nation, one of eighty lodges, and one of sixty lodges, +were camped up the river, waiting to have a palaver with the white explorers. +These were Teton Sioux, and the river named for them still bears that title. + + + +Chapter V + +From the Tetons to the Mandans + +"On the morning of September 25th," says the journal, +"we raised a flagstaff and an awning, under which we assembled, +with all the party parading under arms. The chiefs and warriors, +from the camps two miles up the river, met us, about fifty +or sixty in number, and after smoking we delivered them a speech; +but as our Sioux interpreter, M. Durion, had been left with +the Yanktons, we were obliged to make use of a Frenchman who could +not speak fluently, and therefore we curtailed our harangue. +After this we went through the ceremony of acknowledging +the chiefs, by giving to the grand chief a medal, a flag of +the United States, a laced uniform coat, a cocked hat and feather; +to the two other chiefs, a medal and some small presents; +and to two warriors of consideration, certificates. +The name of the great chief is Untongasabaw, or Black Buffalo; +the second, Tortohonga, or the Partisan; the third, Tartongawaka, +or Buffalo Medicine; the name of one of the warriors was Wawzinggo; +that of the second, Matocoquepa, or Second Bear. We then invited +the chiefs on board, and showed them the boat, the air-gun, and such +curiosities as we thought might amuse them. In this we succeeded +too well; for, after giving them a quarter of a glass of whiskey, +which they seemed to like very much, and sucked the bottle, +it was with much difficulty that we could get rid of them. +They at last accompanied Captain Clark on shore, in a pirogue +with five men; but it seems they had formed a design to stop us; +for no sooner had the party landed than three of the Indians +seized the cable of the pirogue, and one of the soldiers +of the chief put his arms round the mast. The second chief, +who affected intoxication, then said that we should not go on; +that they had not received presents enough from us. +Captain Clark told him that he would not be prevented from going on; +that we were not squaws, but warriors; that we were sent +by our great father, who could in a moment exterminate them. +The chief replied that he too had warriors, and was proceeding +to offer personal violence to Captain Clark, who immediately drew +his sword, and made a signal to the boat to prepare for action. +The Indians, who surrounded him, drew their arrows from +their quivers, and were bending their bows, when the swivel +in the boat was instantly pointed towards them, and twelve +of our most determined men jumped into the pirogue and joined +Captain Clark. This movement made an impression on them, +for the grand chief ordered the young men away from the pirogue, +and they withdrew and held a short council with the warriors. +Being unwilling to irritate them, Captain Clark then went forward, +and offered his hand to the first and second chiefs, who refused +to take it. He then turned from them and got into the pirogue; +but he had not got more than ten paces, when both the chiefs and two +of the warriors waded in after him, and he brought them on board. +We then proceeded on for a mile, and anchored off a willow +island, which, from the circumstances which had just occurred, +we called Bad-humored Island." + +The policy of firmness and gentleness, which Lewis and Clark always pursued +when treating with the Indians, had its good results at this time. +What might have been a bloody encounter was averted, and next day the Indians +contritely came into camp and asked that their squaws and children might +see the white men and their boats, which would be to them a novel sight. +This was agreed to, and after the expedition had sailed up the river +and had been duly admired by a great crowd of men, women, and children, +the Tetons invited the white men to a dance. The journal adds:-- + +"Captains Lewis and Clark, who went on shore one after the other, were met +on landing by ten well-dressed young men, who took them up in a robe +highly decorated and carried them to a large council-house, where they +were placed on a dressed buffalo-skin by the side of the grand chief. +The hall or council-room was in the shape of three-quarters of a circle, +covered at the top and sides with skins well dressed and sewed together. +Under this shelter sat about seventy men, forming a circle round the chief, +before whom were placed a Spanish flag and the one we had given +them yesterday. This left a vacant circle of about six feet diameter, +in which the pipe of peace was raised on two forked sticks, about six or eight +inches from the ground, and under it the down of the swan was scattered. +A large fire, in which they were cooking provisions, stood near, and in +the centre about four hundred pounds of buffalo meat as a present for us. +As soon as we were seated, an old man got up, and after approving +what we had done, begged us take pity on their unfortunate situation. +To this we replied with assurances of protection. After he had ceased, +the great chief rose and delivered a harangue to the same effect; then with +great solemnity he took some of the most delicate parts of the dog which +was cooked for the festival, and held it to the flag by way of sacrifice; +this done, he held up the pipe of peace, and first pointed it toward +the heavens, then to the four quarters of the globe, then to the earth, +made a short speech, lighted the pipe, and presented it to us. +We smoked, and he again harangued his people, after which the repast was +served up to us. It consisted of the dog which they had just been cooking, +this being a great dish among the Sioux, and used on all festivals; +to this were added pemitigon, a dish made of buffalo meat, dried or jerked, +and then pounded and mixed raw with grease and a kind of ground potato, +dressed like the preparation of Indian corn called hominy, to which it +is little inferior. Of all these luxuries, which were placed before us +in platters with horn spoons, we took the pemitigon and the potato, +which we found good, but we could as yet partake but sparingly of the dog." + +The "pemitigon" mentioned here is better known as pemmican, +a sort of dried meat, which may be eaten as prepared, +or pounded fine and cooked with other articles of food. +This festival concluded with a grand dance, which at midnight +wound up the affair. + +As the description of these Tetons, given by Lewis and Clark, will give +the reader a good idea of the manners, customs, and personal appearance +of most of the Sioux nation, we will copy the journal in full. +It is as follows: + +"The tribe which we this day saw are a part of the great Sioux nation, +and are known by the name of the Teton Okandandas: they are about +two hundred men in number, and their chief residence is on both sides +of the Missouri, between the Chayenne and Teton Rivers. In their +persons they are rather ugly and ill-made, their legs and arms being +too small, their cheek-bones high, and their eyes projecting. +The females, with the same character of form, are more handsome; +and both sexes appear cheerful and sprightly; but in our intercourse +with them we discovered that they were cunning and vicious. + +"The men shave the hair off their heads, except a small tuft +on the top, which they suffer to grow, and wear in plaits over +the shoulders; to this they seem much attached, as the loss +of it is the usual sacrifice at the death of near relations. +In full dress, the men of consideration wear a hawk's feather, +or calumet feather worked with porcupine quills, and fastened +to the top of the head, from which it falls back. The face +and body are generally painted with a mixture of grease and coal. +Over the shoulders is a loose robe or mantle of buffalo skin +dressed white, adorned with porcupine quills, loosely fixed, +so as to make a jingling noise when in motion, and painted +with various uncouth figures, unintelligible to us, but to them +emblematic of military exploits or any other incident: +the hair of the robe is worn next the skin in fair weather, +but when it rains the hair is put outside, and the robe +is either thrown over the arm or wrapped round the body, +all of which it may cover. Under this, in the winter season, +they wear a kind of shirt resembling ours, made either +of skin or cloth, and covering the arms and body. +Round the middle is fixed a girdle of cloth, or procured +dressed elk-skin, about an inch in width, and closely tied +to the body; to this is attached a piece of cloth, or blanket, +or skin, about a foot wide, which passes between the legs, +and is tucked under the girdle both before and behind. +From the hip to the ankle is covered by leggins of dressed +antelope skins, with seams at the sides two inches in width, +and ornamented by little tufts of hair, the produce of the scalps +they have made in war, which are scattered down the leg. +The winter moccasins are of dressed buffalo skin, the hair +being worn inward, and soled with thick elk-skin parchment; +those for summer are of deer or elk-skin, dressed without +the hair, and with soles of elk-skin. On great occasions, +or whenever they are in full dress, the young men drag after them +the entire skin of a polecat fixed to the heel of the moccasin. +Another skin of the same animal, either tucked into the girdle +or carried in the hand, serves as a pouch for their tobacco, +or what the French traders call bois roule.[1] This is the inner +bark of a species of red willow, which, being dried in the sun +or over the fire, is, rubbed between the hands and broken +into small pieces, and used alone or mixed with tobacco. +The pipe is generally of red earth, the stem made of ash, +about three or four feet long, and highly decorated with feathers, +hair, and porcupine-quills. + + +[1] This is bois roule, or "rolled wood," a poor kind of tobacco +rolled with various kinds of leaves, such as the sumach and dogwood. +The Indian name is kinnikinick. + +. . . . . . . . . + +"While on shore to-day we witnessed a quarrel between two squaws, +which appeared to be growing every moment more boisterous, when a man +came forward, at whose approach every one seemed terrified and ran. +He took the squaws and without any ceremony whipped them severely. +On inquiring into the nature of such summary justice, we learned +that this man was an officer well known to this and many other tribes. +His duty is to keep the peace, and the whole interior police of the village +is confided to two or three of these officers, who are named by the chief +and remain in power some days, at least till the chief appoints a successor. +They seem to be a sort of constable or sentinel, since they are always on the +watch to keep tranquillity during the day and guard the camp in the night. +The short duration of the office is compensated by its authority. +His power is supreme, and in the suppression of any riot or +disturbance no resistance to him is suffered; his person is sacred, +and if in the execution of his duty he strikes even a chief of +the second class, he cannot be punished for this salutary insolence. +In general he accompanies the person of the chief, and when ordered +to any duty, however dangerous, it is a point of honor rather to die +than to refuse obedience. Thus, when they attempted to stop us yesterday, +the chief ordered one of these men to take possession of the boat; +he immediately put his arms around the mast, and, as we understood, no force +except the command of the chief would have induced him to release his hold. +Like the other men his body is blackened, but his distinguishing mark +is a collection of two or three raven-skins fixed to the girdle behind +the back in such a way that the tails stick out horizontally from the body. +On his head, too, is a raven-skin split into two parts, and tied +so as to let the beak project from the forehead." + +When the party of explorers subsequently made ready to leave, +signs of reluctance to have them go were apparent among +the Indians. Finally, several of the chief warriors sat on the rope +that held the boat to the shore. Irritated by this, Captain Lewis +got ready to fire upon the warriors, but, anxious to avoid bloodshed, +he gave them more tobacco, which they wanted, and then said +to the chief, "You have told us that you were a great man, +and have influence; now show your influence by taking the rope +from those men, and we will then go on without further trouble." +This appeal to the chieftain's pride had the desired effect. +The warriors were compelled to give up the rope, which was +delivered on board, and the party set sail with a fresh breeze +from the southeast. + +The explorers were soon out of the country of the Teton Sioux +and into that of the Ricaras, or, as these Indians are more +commonly called, the Rickarees. + +On the first day of October they passed the mouth of a river incorrectly +known as Dog River, as if corrupted from the French word chien. +But the true name is Cheyenne, from the Indians who bear that title. +The stream rises in the region called the Black Mountains +by Lewis and Clark, on account of the great quantity of dark +cedar and pine trees that covered the hills. This locality is +now known as the Black Hills, in the midst of which is the famous +mining district of Deadwood. In these mountains, according to +Lewis and Clark, were to be found "great quantities of goats, +white bear, prairie cocks, and a species of animal which resembled +a small elk, with large circular horns." By the "white bear" +the reader must understand that the grizzly bear is meant. +Although this animal, which was first discovered and described +by Lewis and Clark, is commonly referred to in the earlier pages +of the journal as "white," the error naturally came from a desire +to distinguish it from the black and the cinnamon-colored bears. +Afterwards, the journal refers to this formidable creature as the grizzly, +and again as the grisly. Certainly, the bear was a grizzled gray; +but the name "grisly," that is to say, horrible, or frightful, +fitted him very well. The Latin name, ursus horribilis +is not unlike one of those of Lewis and Clark's selection. +The animals with circular curled horns, which the explorers thought +resembled a small elk, are now known as the Rocky Mountain sheep, +or bighorn. They very little resemble sheep, however, except in color, +head, horns, and feet. They are now so scarce as to be almost extinct. +They were among the discoveries of Lewis and Clark. The prairie +cock is known to western sportsmen as "prairie chicken;" +it is a species of grouse. + +It was now early in October, and the weather became very cool. +So great is the elevation of those regions that, although the days +might be oppressively warm, the nights were cold and white frosts +were frequent. Crossing the Rocky Mountains at the South Pass, +far south of Lewis and Clark's route, emigrants who suffered from +intense heat during the middle of day found water in their pails +frozen solid in the morning. + +The Rickarees were very curious and inquisitive regarding the white men. +But the journal adds: "The object which appeared to astonish the Indians +most was Captain Clark's servant York, a remarkably stout, strong negro. +They had never seen a being of that color, and therefore flocked round him +to examine the extraordinary monster. By way of amusement, he told them +that he had once been a wild animal, and been caught and tamed by his master; +and to convince them, showed them feats of strength which, added to his looks, +made him more terrible than we wished him to be." + +"On October 10th," says the journal, "the weather was fine, +and as we were desirous of assembling the whole nation at once, +we despatched Mr. Gravelines (a trader)--who, with Mr. Tabeau, +another French trader, had breakfasted with us--to invite +the chiefs of the two upper villages to a conference. +They all assembled at one o'clock, and after the usual ceremonies +we addressed them in the same way in which we had already spoken +to the Ottoes and Sioux. We then made or acknowledged three chiefs, +one for each of the three villages; giving to each a flag, +a medal, a red coat, a cocked hat and feather, also some goods, +paint and tobacco, which they divided among themselves. +After this the air-gun was exhibited, very much to +their astonishment, nor were they less surprised at the color +and manner of York. On our side we were equally gratified +at discovering that these Ricaras made use of no spirituous +liquors of any kind, the example of the traders who bring it +to them, so far from tempting, having in fact disgusted them. +Supposing that it was as agreeable to them as to the other Indians, +we had at first offered them whiskey; but they refused it with this +sensible remark, that they were surprised that their father +should present to them a liquor which would make them fools. +On another occasion they observed to Mr. Tabeau that no man could +be their friend who tried to lead them into such follies." + +Presents were exchanged by the Indians and the white men; +among the gifts from the former was a quantity of a large, +rich bean, which grows wild and is collected by mice. +The Indians hunt for the mice's deposits and cook and eat them. +The Rickarees had a grand powwow with the white chiefs and, +after accepting presents, agreed to preserve peace with all men, +red or white. On the thirteenth of the month the explorers +discovered a stream which they named Stone-Idol Creek, +on account of two stones, resembling human figures, +which adorn its banks. The creek is now known as Spring River, +and is in Campbell County, South Dakota. Concerning the stone +images the Indians gave this tradition:-- + +"A young man was deeply enamoured with a girl whose parents refused +their consent to the marriage. The youth went out into the fields +to mourn his misfortunes; a sympathy of feeling led the lady to the +same spot, and the faithful dog would not cease to follow his master. +After wandering together and having nothing but grapes to subsist on, +they were at last converted into stone, which, beginning at the feet, +gradually invaded the nobler parts, leaving nothing unchanged but +a bunch of grapes which the female holds in her hand to this day. +Whenever the Ricaras pass these sacred stones, they stop to make some +offering of dress to propitiate these deities. Such is the account +given by the Ricara chief, which we had no mode of examining, +except that we found one part of the story very agreeably confirmed; +for on the river near where the event is said to have occurred we +found a greater abundance of fine grapes than we had yet seen." + +While at their last camp in the country now known as South Dakota, October 14, +1804, one of the soldiers, tried by a court-martial for mutinous conduct, +was sentenced to receive seventy-five lashes on the bare back. +The sentence was carried out then and there. The Rickaree chief, +who accompanied the party for a time, was so affected by the sight +that he cried aloud during the whole proceeding. When the reasons +for the punishment were explained to him, he acknowledged the justice +of the sentence, but said he would have punished the offender with death. +His people, he added, never whip even their children at any age whatever. + +On the eighteenth of October, the party reached Cannonball River, +which rises in the Black Hills and empties in the Missouri +in Morton County, North Dakota. Its name is derived from the +perfectly round, smooth, black stones that line its bed and shores. +Here they saw great numbers of antelope and herds of buffalo, +and of elk. They killed six fallow deer; and next day they counted +fifty-two herds of buffalo and three herds of elk at one view; +they also observed deer, wolves, and pelicans in large numbers. + +The ledges in the bluffs along the river often held nests of the calumet bird, +or golden eagle. These nests, which are apparently resorted to, year after +year, by the same pair of birds, are usually out of reach, except by means +of ropes by which the hunters are let down from the cliffs overhead. +The tail-feathers of the bird are twelve in number, about a foot long, +and are pure white except at the tip, which is jet-black. So highly prized +are these by the Indians that they have been known to exchange a good horse +for two feathers. + +The party saw here a great many elk, deer, antelope, and buffalo, +and these last were dogged along their way by wolves who follow them to feed +upon those that die by accident, or are too weak to keep up with the herd. +Sometimes the wolves would pounce upon a calf, too young and feeble +to trot with the other buffalo; and although the mother made an effort +to save her calf, the creature was left to the hungry wolves, the herd +moving along without delay. + +On the twenty-first of October, the explorers reached a creek +to which the Indians gave the name of Chisshetaw, now known as +Heart River, which, rising in Stark County, North Dakota, and running +circuitously through Morton County, empties into the Missouri opposite +the city of Bismarck. At this point the Northern Pacific Railway +now crosses the Missouri; and here, where is built the capital +of North Dakota, began, in those days, a series of Mandan villages, +with the people of which the explorers were to become tolerably +well acquainted; for it had been decided that the increasing +cold of the weather would compel them to winter in this region. +But they were as yet uncertain as to the exact locality at which they +would build their camp of winter. Here they met one of the grand +chiefs of the Mandans, who was on a hunting excursion with his braves. +This chief greeted with much ceremony the Rickaree chief who +accompanied the exploring party. The Mandans and Rickarees were +ancient enemies, but, following the peaceful councils of the white men, +the chiefs professed amity and smoked together the pipe of peace. +A son of the Mandan chief was observed to have lost both of his +little fingers, and when the strangers asked how this happened, +they were told that the fingers had been cut off (according to +the Mandan custom) to show the grief of the young man at the loss +of some of his relations. + + + +Chapter VI + +Winter among the Mandans + +Before finally selecting the spot on which to build their +winter quarters, Lewis and Clark held councils with the chiefs +of the tribes who were to be their neighbors during the cold season. +These were Mandans, Annahaways, and Minnetarees, tribes living +peacefully in the same region of country. The principal Mandan chief +was Black Cat; White Buffalo Robe Unfolded represented the Annahaways, +and the Minnetaree chief was Black Moccasin. This last-named chief +could not come to the council, but was represented by Caltahcota, +or Cherry on a Bush. The palaver being over, presents were distributed. +The account says:-- + +"One chief of each town was acknowledged by a gift of a flag, +a medal with the likeness of the President of the United States, +a uniform coat, hat and feather. To the second chiefs we gave +a medal representing some domestic animals and a loom for weaving; +to the third chiefs, medals with the impressions of a farmer sowing grain. +A variety of other presents were distributed, but none seemed to give them +more satisfaction than an iron corn-mill which we gave to the Mandans. +. . . . . . . . . + +In the evening the prairie took fire, either by accident or design, +and burned with great fury, the whole plain being enveloped in flames. +So rapid was its progress that a man and a woman were burned to death before +they could reach a place of safety; another man, with his wife and child, +were much burned, and several other persons narrowly escaped destruction. +Among the rest, a boy of the half white breed escaped unhurt in the midst +of the flames; his safety was ascribed to the great medicine spirit, +who had preserved him on account of his being white. But a much more +natural cause was the presence of mind of his mother, who, seeing no hopes +of carrying off her son, threw him on the ground, and, covering him +with the fresh hide of a buffalo, escaped herself from the flames. +As soon as the fire had passed, she returned and found him untouched, +the skin having prevented the flame from reaching the grass on which he lay." + +Next day, says the journal,-- + +"We were visited by two persons from the lower village: +one, the Big White, the chief of the village; the other, +the Chayenne, called the Big Man: they had been hunting, +and did not return yesterday early enough to attend the council. +At their request we repeated part of our speech of yesterday, +and put the medal round the neck of the chief. Captain Clark +took a pirogue and went up the river in search of a good +wintering-place, and returned after going seven miles to the lower +point of an island on the north side, about one mile in length. +He found the banks on the north side high, with coal occasionally, +and the country fine on all sides; but the want of wood, +and the scarcity of game up the river, induced us to decide +on fixing ourselves lower down during the winter. +In the evening our men danced among themselves, to the great +amusement of the Indians." + +It may be said here that the incident of a life saved from +fire by a raw-hide, originally related by Lewis and Clark, +is the foundation of a great many similar stories of adventures +among the Indians. Usually, however, it is a wise and well-seasoned +white trapper who saves his life by this device. + +Having found a good site for their winter camp, the explorers now +built a number of huts, which they called Fort Mandan. The place +was on the north bank of the Missouri River, in what is now +McLean County, North Dakota, about sixteen hundred miles up +the river from St. Louis, and seven or eight miles below +the mouth of Big Knife River. On the opposite bank, years later, +the United States built a military post known as Fort Clark, +which may be found on some of the present-day maps. +The huts were built of logs, and were arranged in two rows, +four rooms in each hut, the whole number being placed in the form +of an angle, with a stockade, or picket, across the two outer +ends of the angle, in which was a gate, kept locked at night. +The roofs of the huts slanted upward from the inner side of +the rows, making the outer side of each hut eighteen feet high; +and the lofts of these were made warm and comfortable with dry +grass mixed with clay, Here they were continually visited +during the winter by Indians from all the region around. +Here, too, they secured the services of an interpreter, +one Chaboneau, who continued with them to the end. +This man's wife, Sacajawea, whose Indian name was translated +"Bird Woman," had been captured from the Snake Indians and sold +to Chaboneau, who married her. She was "a good creature, +of a mild and gentle disposition, greatly attached to the whites." +In the expedition she proved herself more valuable to the explorers +than her husband, and Lewis and Clark always speak of her in terms +of respect and admiration. + +It should not be understood that all the interpreters +employed by white men on such expeditions wholly knew +the spoken language of the tribes among whom they travelled. +To some extent they relied upon the universal language of signs +to make themselves understood, and this method of talking +is known to all sorts and kinds of Indians. Thus, two fingers +of the right hand placed astraddle the wrist of the left hand +signifies a man on horseback; and the number of men on horseback +is quickly added by holding up the requisite number of fingers. +Sleep is described by gently inclining the head on the hand, +and the number of "sleeps," or nights, is indicated by the fingers. +Killed, or dead, is described by closed eyes and a sudden +fall of the head on the talker's chest; and so on, an easily +understood gesture, with a few Indian words, being sufficient +to tell a long story very clearly. + +Lewis and Clark discovered here a species of ermine before +unknown to science. They called it "a weasel, perfectly white +except at the extremity of the tail, which was black." +This animal, highly prized on account of its pretty fur, +was not scientifically described until as late as 1829. +It is a species of stoat. + +The wars of some of the Indian tribes gave Lewis and Clark much trouble +and uneasiness. The Sioux were at war with the Minnetarees (Gros Ventres, +or Big Bellies); and the Assiniboins, who lived further to the north, +continually harassed the Sioux and the Mandans, treating these as +the latter did the Rickarees. The white chiefs had their hands full +all winter while trying to preserve peace among these quarrelsome and +thieving tribes, their favorite game being to steal each other's horses. +The Indian method of caring for their horses in the cold winter was +to let them shift for themselves during the day, and to take them +into their own lodges at night where they were fed with the juicy, +brittle twigs of the cottonwood tree. With this spare fodder the animals +thrive and keep their coats fine and glossy. + +Late in November, a collision between the Sioux and the Mandans became +almost certain, in consequence of the Sioux having attacked a small hunting +party of the Mandans, killing one, wounding two, and capturing nine horses. +Captain Clark mustered and armed twenty-four of his men, crossed over into +the Mandan village and offered to lead the Indians against their enemies. +The offer was declined on account of the deep snows which prevented a march; +but the incident made friends for white men, and the tidings of it had +a wholesome effect on the other tribes. + +"The whole religion of the Mandans," like that of many other savage tribes, +says the journal, "consists in the belief of one Great Spirit presiding over +their destinies. This Being must be in the nature of a good genius, since it +is associated with the healing art, and `great spirit' is synonymous with +`great medicine,' a name applied to everything which they do not comprehend. +Each individual selects for himself the particular object of his devotion, +which is termed his medicine, and is either some invisible being, +or more commonly some animal, which thenceforward becomes his protector +or his intercessor with the Great Spirit, to propitiate whom every +attention is lavished and every personal consideration is sacrificed. +`I was lately owner of seventeen horses,' said a Mandan to us one day, `but I +have offered them all up to my medicine and am now poor.' He had in reality +taken all his wealth, his horses, into the plain, and, turning them loose, +committed them to the care of his medicine and abandoned them forever. +The horses, less religious, took care of themselves, and the pious votary +travelled home on foot." + +To this day, all the Northwest Indians speak of anything that is highly +useful or influential as "great medicine." + +One cold December day, a Mandan chief invited the explorers to join +them in a grand buffalo hunt. The journal adds:-- + +"Captain Clark with fifteen men went out and found the Indians +engaged in killing buffalo. The hunters, mounted on horseback +and armed with bows and arrows, encircle the herd and gradually drive +them into a plain or an open place fit for the movements of horse; +they then ride in among them, and singling out a buffalo, +a female being preferred, go as close as possible and wound her +with arrows till they think they have given the mortal stroke; +when they pursue another, till the quiver is exhausted. +If, which rarely happens, the wounded buffalo attacks +the hunter, he evades his blow by the agility of his horse, +which is trained for the combat with great dexterity. +When they have killed the requisite number they collect their game, +and the squaws and attendants come up from the rear and skin +and dress the animals. Captain Clark killed ten buffalo, +of which five only were brought to the fort; the rest, which could +not be conveyed home, being seized by the Indians, among whom +the custom is that whenever a buffalo is found dead without +an arrow or any particular mark, he is the property of the finder; +so that often a hunter secures scarcely any of the game he kills, +if the arrow happens to fall off." + +The weather now became excessively cold, the mercury often going thirty-two +degrees below zero. Notwithstanding this, however, the Indians kept up +their outdoor sports, one favorite game of which resembled billiards. +But instead of a table, the players had an open flooring, about fifty +yards long, and the balls were rings of stone, shot along the flooring +by means of sticks like billiard-cues. The white men had their sports, +and they forbade the Indians to visit them on Christmas Day, +as this was one of their "great medicine days." The American flag +was hoisted on the fort and saluted with a volley of musketry. +The men danced among themselves; their best provisions were brought +out and "the day passed," says the journal, "in great festivity." + +The party also celebrated New Year's Day by similar festivities. +Sixteen of the men were given leave to go up to the first Mandan +village with their musical instruments, where they delighted the whole +tribe with their dances, one of the French voyageurs being especially +applauded when he danced on his hands with his head downwards. +The dancers and musicians were presented with several buffalo-robes +and a large quantity of Indian corn. The cold grew more intense, and on +the tenth of the month the mercury stood at forty degrees below zero. +Some of the men were badly frost-bitten, and a young Indian, about thirteen +years old, who had been lost in the snows, came into the fort. +The journal says:-- + +"His father, who came last night to inquire after him very anxiously, +had sent him in the afternoon to the fort; he was overtaken +by the night, and was obliged to sleep on the snow with no +covering except a pair of antelope-skin moccasins and leggins, +and a buffalo-robe. His feet being frozen, we put them into cold water, +and gave him every attention in our power. About the same time +an Indian who had also been missing returned to the fort. +Although his dress was very thin, and he had slept on the snow +without a fire, he had not suffered the slightest inconvenience. +We have indeed observed that these Indians support the rigors +of the season in a way which we had hitherto thought impossible. +A more pleasing reflection occurred at seeing the warm interest +which the situation of these two persons had excited in the village. +The boy had been a prisoner, and adopted from charity; yet the distress +of the father proved that he felt for him the tenderest affection. +The man was a person of no distinction, yet the whole village +was full of anxiety for his safety; and, when they came to us, +borrowed a sleigh to bring them home with ease if they +had survived, or to carry their bodies if they had perished. +. . . . . . . . . + +January 13. Nearly one half of the Mandan nation passed down the river +to hunt for several days. In these excursions, men, women, and children, +with their dogs, all leave the village together, and, after discovering a spot +convenient for the game, fix their tents; all the family bear their part in +the labor, and the game is equally divided among the families of the tribe. +When a single hunter returns from the chase with more than is necessary +for his own immediate consumption, the neighbors are entitled by custom +to a share of it: they do not, however, ask for it, but send a squaw, who, +without saying anything, sits down by the door of the lodge till the master +understands the hint, and gives her gratuitously a part for her family." + +By the end of January, 1805, the weather had so far moderated that the +explorers thought they might cut their boats from the ice in the river +and prepare to resume their voyage; but the ice being three feet thick, +they made no progress and were obliged to give up the attempt. +Their stock of meat was low, although they had had good success when the cold +was not too severe to prevent them from hunting deer, elk, and buffalo. +The Mandans, who were careless in providing food for future supplies, +also suffered for want of meat, sometimes going for days without flesh food. +Captain Clark and eighteen men went down the river in search of game. +The hunters, after being out nine days, returned and reported +that they had killed forty deer, three buffalo, and sixteen elk. +But much of the game was lean and poor, and the wolves, who devour +everything left out at night, had stolen a quantity of the flesh. +Four men, with sleds, were sent out to bring into camp the meat, +which had been secured against wolves by being stored in pens. +These men were attacked by Sioux, about one hundred in number, +who robbed them of their game and two of their three horses. +Captain Lewis, with twenty-four men, accompanied by some of the Mandans, +set out in pursuit of the marauders. They were unsuccessful, however, but, +having found a part of their game untouched, they brought it back, +and this, with other game killed after their chase of the Sioux, +gave them three thousand pounds of meat; they had killed thirty-six deer, +fourteen elk, and one wolf. + +By the latter part of February, the party were able to get +their boats from the ice. These were dragged ashore, +and the work of making them ready for their next voyage was begun. +As the ice in the river began to break up, the Mandans had great sport +chasing across the floating cakes of ice the buffalo who were tempted +over by the appearance of green, growing grass on the other side. +The Indians were very expert in their pursuit of the animals, +which finally slipped from their insecure footing on the drifting ice, +and were killed. + +At this point, April 7, 1805, the escorting party, the voyageurs, +and one interpreter, returned down the river in their barge. +This party consisted of thirteen persons, all told, +and to them were intrusted several packages of specimens +for President Jefferson, with letters and official reports. +The presents for Mr. Jefferson, according to the journal, +"consisted of a stuffed male and female antelope, with their skeletons, +a weasel, three squirrels from the Rocky Mountains, the skeleton +of a prairie wolf, those of a white and gray hare, a male +and female blaireau, [badger] or burrowing dog of the prairie, +with a skeleton of the female, two burrowing squirrels, +a white weasel, and the skin of the louservia [loup-servier, +or lynx], the horns of a mountain ram, or big-horn, a pair +of large elk horns, the horns and tail of a black-tailed deer, +and a variety of skins, such as those of the red fox, +white hare, marten, yellow bear, obtained from the Sioux; +also a number of articles of Indian dress, among which was +a buffalo robe representing a battle fought about eight years +since between the Sioux and Ricaras against the Mandans +and Minnetarees, in which the combatants are represented on +horseback. . . . Such sketches, rude and imperfect as they are, +delineate the predominant character of the savage nations. +If they are peaceable and inoffensive, the drawings usually +consist of local scenery and their favorite diversions. +If the band are rude and ferocious, we observe tomahawks, +scalping-knives, bows and arrows, and all the engines +of destruction.--A Mandan bow, and quiver of arrows; +also some Ricara tobacco-seed, and an ear of Mandan corn: +to these were added a box of plants, another of insects, +and three cases containing a burrowing squirrel, a prairie hen, +and four magpies, all alive." . . . + +The articles reached Mr. Jefferson safely and were long on view at his +Virginia residence, Monticello. They were subsequently dispersed, +and some found their way to Peale's Museum, Philadelphia. Dr. Cones, +the zealous editor of the latest and fullest edition of Lewis and +Clark's narrative, says that some of the specimens of natural history +were probably extant in 1893. + + + +Chapter VII + +From Fort Mandan to the Yellowstone + +Up to this time, the expedition had passed through regions from +which vague reports had been brought by the few white men who, +as hunters and trappers in pursuit of fur-bearing game, +had dared to venture into these trackless wildernesses. +Now they were to launch out into the mysterious unknown, +from which absolutely no tidings had ever been brought by white men. +The dim reports of Indians who had hunted through some parts +of the region were unreliable, and, as they afterwards proved, +were often as absurdly false as if they had been fairy tales. + +Here, too, they parted from some of their comrades who were to return +to "the United States," as the explorers fondly termed their native country, +although the strange lands through which they were voyaging were now a part +of the American Republic. The despatches sent to Washington by these men +contained the first official report from Lewis and Clark since their departure +from St. Louis, May 16, 1803; and they were the last word from the explorers +until their return in September, 1806. During all that long interval, +the adventurers were not heard of in the States. No wonder that croakers +declared that the little party had been cut off to perish miserably +in the pathless woods that cover the heart of the continent. + +But they set out on the long journey with light hearts. +In his journal, whose spelling and punctuation are not always +models for the faithful imitation of school-boys, Captain Lewis +set down this observation:-- + +"Our vessels consisted of six small canoes, and two large perogues. +This little fleet altho' not quite so rispectable as those of Columbus +or Capt. Cook, were still viewed by us with as much pleasure as +those deservedly famed adventurers ever beheld theirs; and I dare +say with quite as much anxiety for their safety and preservation. +we were now about to penetrate a country at least two thousand miles +in width, on which the foot of civilized man had never trodden; +the good or evil it had in store for us was for experiment yet +to determine, and these little vessells contained every article +by which we were to expect to subsist or defend ourselves. +however as the state of mind in which we are, generally gives the colouring +to events, when the immagination is suffered to wander into futurity, +the picture which now presented itself to me was a most pleasing one. +entertaing as I do the most confident hope of succeeding in a voyage +which had formed a darling project of mine for the last ten years, +I could but esteem this moment of our departure as among the most happy +of my life." + +The barge sent down the river to St. Louis was in command +of Corporal Wharfington; and with him were six private soldiers, +two French voyageurs, Joseph Gravelines (pilot and interpreter), +and Brave Raven, a Ricara (or Arikara) chief who was to be +escorted to Washington to visit the President. The party +was also intrusted with sundry gifts for the President, +among them being natural history specimens, living and dead, +and a number of Indian articles which would be objects of +curiosity in Washington. + +The long voyage of the main party began on the 8th of April, +1805, early passing the mouth of the Big Knife River, +one of the five considerable streams that fall into the Missouri +from the westward in this region; the other streams are the Owl, +the Grand, the Cannonball, and the Heart. The large town +of Stanton, Mercer County, North Dakota, is now situated +at the mouth of the Big Knife. The passage of the party up +the river was slow, owing to unfavorable winds; and they observed +along the banks many signs of early convulsions of nature. +The earth of the bluffs was streaked with layers of coal, +or carbonized wood, and large quantities of lava and pumice-stone +were strewn around, showing traces of ancient volcanic action. +The journal of April 9 says:-- + +"A great number of brants [snow-geese] pass up the river; +some of them are perfectly white, except the large feathers +of the first joint of the wing, which are black, though in +every other characteristic they resemble common gray brant. +We also saw but could not procure an animal [gopher] that +burrows in the ground, and is similar in every respect to the +burrowing-squirrel, except that it is only one-third of its size. +This may be the animal whose works we have often seen +in the plains and prairies; they resemble the labors of the +salamander in the sand-hills of South Carolina and Georgia, +and like him the animals rarely come above ground; they consist +of a little hillock of ten or twelve pounds of loose ground, +which would seem to have been reversed from a pot, though no +aperture is seen through which it could have been thrown. +On removing gently the earth, you discover that the soil has +been broken in a circle of about an inch and a half diameter, +where the ground is looser, though still no opening is perceptible. +When we stopped for dinner the squaw [Sacajawea] went out, +and after penetrating with a sharp stick the holes of the mice +[gophers], near some drift-wood, brought to us a quantity of +wild artichokes, which the mice collect and hoard in large numbers. +The root is white, of an ovate form, from one to three inches long, +and generally of the size of a man's finger, and two, four, +and sometimes six roots are attached to a single stalk. +Its flavor as well as the stalk which issues from it resemble +those of the Jerusalem artichoke, except that the latter +is much larger." + +The weather rapidly grew so warm, although this was early +in April, that the men worked half-naked during the day; +and they were very much annoyed by clouds of mosquitoes. +They found that the hillsides and even the banks of the rivers +and sand-bars were covered with "a white substance, which appears +in considerable quantities on the surface of the earth, +and tastes like a mixture of common salt with Glauber's salts." +"Many of the streams," the journal adds, "are so strongly +impregnated with this substance that the water has an +unpleasant taste and a purgative effect." This is nothing +more than the so-called alkali which has since become known +all over the farthest West. It abounds in the regions west +of Salt Lake Valley, whitening vast areas like snow and poisoning +the waters so that the traveller often sees the margins +of the brown pools lined with skeletons and bodies of small +animals whose thirst had led them to drink the deadly fluid. +Men and animals stiffer from smaller doses of this stuff, +which is largely a sulphate of soda, and even in small quantities +is harmful to the system. + +Here, on the twelfth of April, they were able to determine the exact course +of the Little Missouri, a stream about which almost nothing was then known. +Near here, too, they found the source of the Mouse River, only a few +miles from the Missouri. The river, bending to the north and then making +many eccentric curves, finally empties into Lake Winnipeg, and so passes +into the great chain of northern lakes in British America. At this +point the explorers saw great flocks of the wild Canada goose. +The journal says:-- + +"These geese, we observe, do not build their nests on the ground +or in the sand-bars, but in the tops of the lofty cottonwood trees. +We saw some elk and buffalo to-day, but at too great a distance +to obtain any of them, though a number of the carcasses of +the latter animal are strewed along the shore, having fallen +through the ice and been swept along when the river broke up. +More bald eagles are seen on this part of the Missouri than +we have previously met with; the small sparrow-hawk, common +in most parts of the United States, is also found here. +Great quantities of geese are feeding on the prairies, +and one flock of white brant, or geese with black-tipped wings, +and some gray brant with them, pass up the river; from their +flight they seem to proceed much further to the northwest. +We killed two antelopes, which were very lean, and caught +last night two beavers." + +Lewis and Clark were laughed at by some very knowing people +who scouted the idea that wild geese build their nests in trees. +But later travellers have confirmed their story; +the wise geese avoid foxes and other of their four-footed +enemies by fixing their homes in the tall cottonwoods. +In other words, they roost high. + +The Assiniboins from the north had lately been on +their spring hunting expeditions through this region,-- +just above the Little Missouri,--and game was scarce and shy. +The journal, under the date of April 14, says:-- + +"One of the hunters shot at an otter last evening; a buffalo was killed, +and an elk, both so poor as to be almost unfit for use; two white [grizzly] +bears were also seen, and a muskrat swimming across the river. The river +continues wide and of about the same rapidity as the ordinary current +of the Ohio. The low grounds are wide, the moister parts containing timber; +the upland is extremely broken, without wood, and in some places seems +as if it had slipped down in masses of several acres in surface. +The mineral appearance of salts, coal, and sulphur, with the burnt hill +and pumice-stone, continue, and a bituminous water about the color of +strong lye, with the taste of Glauber's salts and a slight tincture of alum. +Many geese were feeding in the prairies, and a number of magpies, +which build their nests much like those of the blackbird, in trees, +and composed of small sticks, leaves, and grass, open at the top; +the egg is of a bluish-brown color, freckled with reddish-brown spots. +We also killed a large hooting-owl resembling that of the United States +except that it was more booted and clad with feathers. On the hills +are many aromatic herbs, resembling in taste, smell, and appearance +the sage, hyssop, wormwood, southernwood, juniper, and dwarf cedar; a plant +also about two or three feet high, similar to the camphor in smell and taste; +and another plant of the same size, with a long, narrow, smooth, soft leaf, +of an agreeable smell and flavor, which is a favorite food of the antelope, +whose necks are often perfumed by rubbing against it." + +What the journalist intended to say here was that at least +one of the aromatic herbs resembled sage, hyssop, wormwood, +and southernwood, and that there were junipers and dwarf cedars. +The pungent-smelling herb was the wild sage, now celebrated +in stories of adventure as the sage-brush. It grows abundantly +in the alkali country, and is browsed upon by a species +of grouse known as the sage-hen. Junipers and dwarf cedars +also grow on the hills of the alkali and sage-brush country. +The sage belongs to the Artemisia family of plants. + +Four days later, the journal had this interesting entry: + +"The country to-day presented the usual variety of highlands +interspersed with rich plains. In one of these we observed +a species of pea bearing a yellow flower, which is now +in blossom, the leaf and stalk resembling the common pea. +It seldom rises higher than six inches, and the root is perennial. +On the rose-bushes we also saw a quantity of the hair of a buffalo, +which had become perfectly white by exposure and resembled the wool +of the sheep, except that it was much finer and more soft and silky. +A buffalo which we killed yesterday had shed his long hair, +and that which remained was about two inches long, +thick, fine, and would have furnished five pounds of wool, +of which we have no doubt an excellent cloth may be made. +Our game to-day was a beaver, a deer, an elk, and some geese. . . . + +"On the hills we observed considerable quantities of dwarf juniper, +which seldom grows higher than three feet. We killed in the course +of the day an elk, three geese, and a beaver. The beaver on this part +of the Missouri are in greater quantities, larger and fatter, and their fur +is more abundant and of a darker color, than any we have hitherto seen. +Their favorite food seems to be the bark of the cottonwood and willow, +as we have seen no other species of tree that has been touched by them, +and these they gnaw to the ground through a diameter of twenty inches." + +And on the twenty-first of April the journal says: + +"Last night there was a hard white frost, and this morning +the weather was cold, but clear and pleasant; in the course +of the day, however, it became cloudy and the wind rose. +The country is of the same description as within the few last days. +We saw immense quantities of buffalo, elk, deer, antelopes, geese, +and some swans and ducks, out of which we procured three deer +and four buffalo calves, which last are equal in flavor +to the most delicious veal; also two beaver and an otter." + +As the party advanced to the westward, following the crooked course +of the Missouri, they were very much afflicted with inflamed eyes, +occasioned by the fine, alkaline dust that blew so lightly +that it sometimes floated for miles, like clouds of smoke. +The dust even penetrated the works of one of their watches, +although it was protected by tight, double cases. +In these later days, even the double windows of the railway +trains do not keep out this penetrating dust, which makes one's +skin dry and rough. + +On the twenty-fifth of April, the explorers believed, +by the signs which they observed, that they must be near +the great unknown river of which they had dimly heard as rising +in the rocky passes of the Great Divide and emptying into +the Missouri. Captain Lewis accordingly left the party, with four men, +and struck off across the country in search of the stream. +Under the next day's date the journal reports the return +of Captain Lewis and says:-- + +"On leaving us yesterday he pursued his route along the foot +of the hills, which be descended to the distance of eight miles; +from these the wide plains watered by the Missouri and the Yellowstone +spread themselves before the eye, occasionally varied with the wood +of the banks, enlivened by the irregular windings of the two rivers, +and animated by vast herds of buffalo, deer, elk, and antelope. +The confluence of the two rivers was concealed by the wood, +but the Yellowstone itself was only two miles distant, to the south. +He therefore descended the hills and camped on the bank of the river, +having killed, as he crossed the plain, four buffaloes; the deer alone +are shy and retire to the woods, but the elk, antelope, and buffalo +suffered him to approach them without alarm, and often followed him +quietly for some distance." + +The famous water-course, first described by Lewis and Clark, was named +by them the Yellow Stone River. Earlier than this, however, +the French voyageurs had called the Upper Missouri the Riviere Jaune, +or Yellow River; but it is certain that the stream, which rises +in the Yellowstone National Park, was discovered and named by Lewis +and Clark. One of the party, Private Joseph Fields, was the first white +man who ever ascended the Yellowstone for any considerable distance. +Sent up the river by Captains Lewis and Clark, he travelled about eight miles, +and observed the currents and sand-bars. Leaving the mouth of the river, +the party went on their course along the Missouri. The journal, +under date of April 27, says:-- + +"From the point of junction a wood occupies the space between +the two rivers, which at the distance of a mile come within +two hundred and fifty yards of each other. There a beautiful +low plain commences, widening as the rivers recede, and extends +along each of them for several miles, rising about half a mile +from the Missouri into a plain twelve feet higher than itself. +The low plain is a few inches above high water mark, +and where it joins the higher plain there is a channel of sixty +or seventy yards in width, through which a part of the Missouri, +when at its greatest height, passes into the Yellowstone. +. . . . . . . . . + +The northwest wind rose so high at eleven o'clock that we were obliged +to stop till about four in the afternoon, when we proceeded till dusk. +On the south a beautiful plain separates the two rivers, +till at about six miles there is a piece of low timbered ground, +and a little above it bluffs, where the country rises gradually +from the river: the situations on the north are more high and open. +We encamped on that side, the wind, the sand which it raised, +and the rapidity of the current having prevented our advancing +more than eight miles; during the latter part of the day the river +became wider, and crowded with sand-bars. The game was in such +plenty that we killed only what was necessary for our subsistence. +For several days past we have seen great numbers of buffalo lying +dead along the shore, some of them partly devoured by the wolves. +They have either sunk through the ice during the winter, +or been drowned in attempting to cross; or else, after crossing +to some high bluff, have found themselves too much exhausted either +to ascend or swim back again, and perished for want of food: +in this situation we found several small parties of them. +There are geese, too, in abundance, and more bald eagles +than we have hitherto observed; the nests of these last being +always accompanied by those of two or three magpies, who are +their inseparable attendants." + + + +Chapter VIII + +In the Haunts of Grizzlies and Buffalo + +Game, which had been somewhat scarce after leaving the Yellowstone, +became more plentiful as they passed on to the westward , +still following the winding course of the Missouri. Much of the time, +baffling winds and the crookedness of the stream made sailing impossible, +and the boats were towed by men walking along the banks. + +Even this was sometimes difficult, on account of the rocky ledges that beset +the shores, and sharp stones that lay in the path of the towing parties. +On the twenty-eighth of April, however, having a favorable wind, +the party made twenty-eight miles with their sails, which was reckoned +a good day's journey. On that day the journal records that game had again +become very abundant, deer of various kinds, elk, buffalo, antelope, +bear, beaver, and geese being numerous. The beaver, it was found, +had wrought much damage by gnawing down trees; some of these, not less +than three feet in diameter had been gnawed clean through by the beaver. +On the following day the journal has this record:-- + +"We proceeded early, with a moderate wind. Captain Lewis, who was on shore +with one hunter, met, about eight o'clock, two white [grizzly] bears. +Of the strength and ferocity of this animal the Indians had given us +dreadful accounts. They never attack him but in parties of six or +eight persons, and even then are often defeated with a loss of one or more +of their party. Having no weapons but bows and arrows, and the bad guns +with which the traders supply them, they are obliged to approach very near +to the bear; as no wound except through the head or heart is mortal, +they frequently fall a sacrifice if they miss their aim. He rather +attacks than avoids a man, and such is the terror which he has inspired, +that the Indians who go in quest of him paint themselves and perform all +the superstitious rites customary when they make war on a neighboring nation. +Hitherto, those bears we had seen did not appear desirous of encountering us; +but although to a skilful rifleman the danger is very much diminished, +yet the white bear is still a terrible animal. On approaching these two, +both Captain Lewis and the hunter fired, and each wounded a bear. +One of them made his escape; the other turned upon Captain Lewis and pursued +him seventy or eighty yards, but being badly wounded the bear could not +run so fast as to prevent him from reloading his piece, which be again +aimed at him, and a third shot from the hunter brought him to the ground. +He was a male, not quite full grown, and weighed about three hundred pounds. +The legs are somewhat longer than those of the black bear, and the talons +and tusks much larger and longer. Its color is a yellowish-brown; +the eyes are small, black, and piercing; the front of the fore legs near +the feet is usually black, and the fur is finer, thicker, and deeper +than that of the black bear. Add to which, it is a more furious animal, +and very remarkable for the wounds which it will bear without dying." + +Next day, the hunter killed the largest elk which they had ever seen. +It stood five feet three inches high from hoof to shoulder. +Antelopes were also numerous, but lean, and not very good for food. +Of the antelope the journal says:-- + +"These fleet and quick-sighted animals are generally the victims +of their curiosity. When they first see the hunters, they run with +great velocity; if he lies down on the ground, and lifts up his arm, +his hat, or his foot, they return with a light trot to look at the object, +and sometimes go and return two or three times, till they approach +within reach of the rifle. So, too, they sometimes leave their flock +to go and look at the wolves, which crouch down, and, if the antelope +is frightened at first, repeat the same manoevre, and sometimes relieve +each other, till they decoy it from the party, when they seize it. +But, generally, the wolves take them as they are crossing the rivers; +for, although swift on foot, they are not good swimmers." + +Later wayfarers across the plains were wont to beguile the antelope by +fastening a bright-colored handkerchief to a ramrod stuck in the ground. +The patient hunter was certain to be rewarded by the antelope coming +within range of his rifle; for, unless scared off by some interference, +the herd, after galloping around and around and much zigzagging, +would certainly seek to gratify their curiosity by gradually circling +nearer and nearer the strange object until a deadly shot or two sent +havoc into their ranks. + +May came on cold and windy, and on the second of the month, +the journal records that snow fell to the depth of an inch, +contrasting strangely with the advanced vegetation. + +"Our game to-day," proceeds the journal, "were deer, elk, and buffalo: +we also procured three beaver. They were here quite gentle, +as they have not been hunted; but when the hunters are in pursuit, +they never leave their huts during the day. This animal we esteem +a great delicacy, particularly the tail, which, when boiled, +resembles in flavor the fresh tongues and sounds of the codfish, +and is generally so large as to afford a plentiful meal for two men. +One of the hunters, in passing near an old Indian camp, +found several yards of scarlet cloth suspended on the bough of a tree, +as a sacrifice to the deity, by the Assiniboins; the custom of making +these offerings being common among that people, as, indeed, among all +the Indians on the Missouri. The air was sharp this evening; +the water froze on the oars as we rowed." + +The Assiniboin custom of sacrificing to their deity, or "great medicine," +the article which they most value themselves, is not by any means peculiar +to that tribe, nor to the Indian race. + +An unusual number of porcupines were seen along here, and these creatures +were so free from wildness that they fed on, undisturbed, while the explorers +walked around and among them. The captains named a bold and beautiful stream, +which here entered the Missouri from the north,--Porcupine River; but modern +geography calls the water-course Poplar River; at the mouth of the river, +in Montana, is now the Poplar River Indian Agency and military post. +The waters of this stream, the explorers found, were clear and transparent,-- +an exception to all the streams, which, discharging into the Missouri, +give it its name of the Big Muddy. The journal adds:-- + +"A quarter of a mile beyond this river a creek falls in on +the south, to which, on account of its distance from the mouth +of the Missouri, we gave the name of Two-thousand-mile creek. +It is a bold stream with a bed thirty yards wide. +At three and one-half miles above Porcupine River, we reached +some high timber on the north, and camped just above an old +channel of the river, which is now dry. We saw vast quantities +of buffalo, elk, deer,--principally of the long-tailed kind,-- +antelope, beaver, geese, ducks, brant, and some swan. +The porcupines too are numerous, and so careless and clumsy +that we can approach very near without disturbing them, as they +are feeding on the young willows. Toward evening we also found +for the first time the nest of a goose among some driftwood, +all that we had hitherto seen being on the top of a broken +tree on the forks, invariably from fifteen to twenty or more +feet in height." + +"Next day," May 4, says the journal, "we passed some old Indian hunting-camps, +one of which consisted of two large lodges, fortified with a circular +fence twenty or thirty feet in diameter, made of timber laid horizontally, +the beams overlying each other to the height of five feet, and covered +with the trunks and limbs of trees that have drifted down the river. +The lodges themselves are formed by three or more strong sticks +about the size of a man's leg or arm and twelve feet long, which are +attached at the top by a withe of small willows, and spread out so as +to form at the base a circle of ten to fourteen feet in diameter. +Against these are placed pieces of driftwood and fallen timber, +usually in three ranges, one on the other; the interstices are covered +with leaves, bark, and straw, so as to form a conical figure about +ten feet high, with a small aperture in one side for the door. +It is, however, at best a very imperfect shelter against the inclemencies +of the seasons." + +Wolves were very abundant along the route of the explorers, the most +numerous species being the common kind, now known as the coyote +(pronounced kyote), and named by science the canis latrans. +These animals are cowardly and sly creatures, of an intermediate size +between the fox and dog, very delicately formed, fleet and active. + +"The ears are large, erect, and pointed; the head is long +and pointed, like that of the fox; the tail long and bushy; +the hair and fur are of a pale reddish-brown color, though much +coarser than that of the fox; the eye is of a deep sea-green color, +small and piercing; the talons are rather longer than those of the wolf +of the Atlantic States, which animal, as far as we can perceive, +is not to be found on this side of the Platte. These wolves usually +associate in bands of ten or twelve, and are rarely, if ever, +seen alone, not being able, singly, to attack a deer or antelope. +They live and rear their young in burrows, which they fix near +some pass or spot much frequented by game, and sally out in a +body against any animal which they think they can overpower; +but on the slightest alarm retreat to their burrows, making a noise +exactly like that of a small dog. + +"A second species is lower, shorter in the legs, and thicker than the +Atlantic wolf; the color, which is not affected by the seasons, is of every +variety of shade, from a gray or blackish-brown to a cream-colored white. +They do not burrow, nor do they bark, but howl; they frequent the woods +and plains, and skulk along the skirts of the buffalo herds, in order +to attack the weary or wounded." + +Under date of May 5, the journal has an interesting story of an encounter +with a grizzly bear, which, by way of variety, is here called "brown," +instead of "white." It is noticeable that the explorers dwelt with +much minuteness upon the peculiar characteristics of the grizzly; +this is natural enough when we consider that they were the first +white men to form an intimate acquaintance with "Ursus horribilis." +The account says:-- + +"Captain Clark and one of the hunters met, this evening, the largest +brown bear we have seen. As they fired he did not attempt to attack, +but fled with a most tremendous roar; and such was his extraordinary +tenacity of life, that, although he had five balls passed +through his lungs, and five other wounds, he swam more than half +across the river to a sand-bar, and survived twenty minutes. +He weighed between five and six hundred pounds at least, +and measured eight feet seven inches and a half from the nose +to the extremity of the hind feet, five feet ten inches and a half +round the breast, three feet eleven inches round the neck, one foot +eleven inches round the middle of the fore leg, and his claws +five on each foot, were four inches and three-eighths in length. +This animal differs from the common black bear in having his +claws much longer and more blunt; his tail shorter; his hair +of a reddish or bay brown, longer, finer, and more abundant; +his liver, lungs, and heart much larger even in proportion to his size, +the heart, particularly, being equal to that of a large ox; +and his maw ten times larger. Besides fish and flesh, he feeds +on roots and every kind of wild fruit." + +On May 8 the party discovered the largest and most important of the northern +tributaries of the Upper Missouri. The journal thus describes the stream:-- + +"Its width at the entrance is one hundred and fifty yards; +on going three miles up, Captain Lewis found it to be of the same +breadth and sometimes more; it is deep, gentle, and has a large +quantity of water; its bed is principally of mud; the banks +are abrupt, about twelve feet in height, and formed of a dark, +rich loam and blue clay; the low grounds near it are wide and fertile, +and possess a considerable proportion of cottonwood and willow. +It seems to be navigable for boats and canoes; by this circumstance, +joined to its course and quantity of water, which indicates that it +passes through a large extent of country, we are led to presume +that it may approach the Saskaskawan [Saskatchewan] and afford +a communication with that river. The water has a peculiar whiteness, +such as might be produced by a tablespoonful of milk in a dish of tea, +and this circumstance induced us to call it Milk River." + +Modern geography shows that the surmise of Captain Lewis was correct. +Some of the tributaries of Milk River (the Indian name of which signifies +"The River that Scolds at all Others") have their rise near St. Mary's River, +which is one of the tributaries of the Saskatchewan, in British America. + +The explorers were surprised to find the bed of a dry river, +as deep and as wide as the Missouri itself, about fifteen +miles above Milk River. Although it had every appearance +of a water-course, it did not discharge a drop of water. +Their journal says:-- + +"It passes through a wide valley without timber; the surrounding country +consists of waving low hills, interspersed with some handsome level plains; +the banks are abrupt, and consist of a black or yellow clay, or of a rich +sandy loam; though they do not rise more than six or eight feet above the bed, +they exhibit no appearance of being overflowed; the bed is entirely +composed of a light brown sand, the particles of which, like those of +the Missouri, are extremely fine. Like the dry rivers we passed before, +this seemed to have discharged its waters recently, but the watermark +indicated that its greatest depth had not been more than two feet. +This stream, if it deserve the name, we called Bigdry [Big Dry] River." + +And Big Dry it remains on the maps unto this day. +In this region the party recorded this observation:-- + +"The game is now in great quantities, particularly the elk and buffalo, +which last is so gentle that the men are obliged to drive them out of the way +with sticks and stones. The ravages of the beaver are very apparent; +in one place the timber was entirely prostrated for a space of three acres +in front on the river and one in depth, and great part of it removed, +though the trees were in large quantities, and some of them as thick +as the body of a man. + +Yet so great have been the ravages of man among these gentle creatures, +that elk are now very rarely found in the region, and the buffalo +have almost utterly disappeared from the face of the earth. +Just after the opening of the Northern Pacific Railway, in 1883, +a band of sixty buffaloes were heard of, far to the southward +of Bismarck, and a party was organized to hunt them. +The BOLD hunters afterwards boasted that they killed every one +of this little band of survivors of their race. + +The men were now (in the middle of May) greatly troubled with boils, +abscesses, and inflamed eyes, caused by the poison of the alkali +that covered much of the ground and corrupted the water. +Here is an entry in the journal of May 11:-- + +"About five in the afternoon one of our men [Bratton], who had been +afflicted with boils and suffered to walk on shore, came running to +the boats with loud cries, and every symptom of terror and distress. +For some time after we had taken him on board he was so much out +of breath as to be unable to describe the cause of his anxiety; +but he at length told us that about a mile and a half below he had +shot a brown bear, which immediately turned and was in close pursuit +of him; but the bear being badly wounded could not overtake him. +Captain Lewis, with seven men, immediately went in search of him; +having found his track they followed him by the blood for a mile, +found him concealed in some thick brushwood, and shot him with two +balls through the skull. Though somewhat smaller than that killed +a few days ago, he was a monstrous animal, and a most terrible enemy. +Our man had shot him through the centre of the lungs; yet he had pursued +him furiously for half a mile, then returned more than twice that distance, +and with his talons prepared himself a bed in the earth two feet +deep and five feet long; he was perfectly alive when they found him, +which was at least two hours after he had received the wound. +The wonderful power of life which these animals possess renders +them dreadful; their very track in the mud or sand, which we have +sometimes found eleven inches long and seven and one-fourth wide, +exclusive of the talons, is alarming; and we had rather encounter +two Indians than meet a single brown bear. There is no chance of +killing them by a single shot unless the ball goes through the brain, +and this is very difficult on account of two large muscles which cover +the side of the forehead and the sharp projection of the centre +of the frontal bone, which is also thick. + +"Our camp was on the south, at the distance of sixteen miles from that of +last night. The fleece and skin of the bear were a heavy burden for two men, +and the oil amounted to eight gallons." + +The name of the badly-scared Bratton was bestowed upon a creek +which discharges into the Missouri near the scene of this encounter. +Game continued to be very abundant. On the fourteenth, according to +the journal, the hunters were hunted, to their great discomfiture. +The account says:-- + +"Toward evening the men in the hindmost canoes discovered a large +brown [grizzly] bear lying in the open grounds, about three +hundred paces from the river. Six of them, all good hunters, +immediately went to attack him, and concealing themselves +by a small eminence came unperceived within forty paces of him. +Four of the hunters now fired, and each lodged a ball +in his body, two of them directly through the lungs. +The furious animal sprang up and ran open-mouthed upon them. + +"As he came near, the two hunters who had reserved their fire +gave him two wounds, one of which, breaking his shoulder, +retarded his motion for a moment; but before they could reload +he was so near that they were obliged to run to the river, +and before they had reached it he had almost overtaken them. +Two jumped into the canoe; the other four separated, and, concealing +themselves in the willows, fired as fast as they could reload. +They struck him several times, but, instead of weakening the monster, +each shot seemed only to direct him towards the hunters, +till at last he pursued two of them so closely that they threw +aside their guns and pouches, and jumped down a perpendicular +bank of twenty feet into the river: the bear sprang after them, +and was within a few feet of the hindmost, when one of the hunters +on shore shot him in the head, and finally killed him. +They dragged him to the shore, and found that eight balls +had passed through him in different directions. The bear +was old, and the meat tough, so that they took the skin only, +and rejoined us at camp, where we had been as much terrified +by an accident of a different kind. + +"This was the narrow escape of one of our canoes, containing all +our papers, instruments, medicine, and almost every article indispensable +for the success of our enterprise. The canoe being under sail, +a sudden squall of wind struck her obliquely and turned her considerably. +The man at the helm, who was unluckily the worst steersman of the party, +became alarmed, and, instead of putting her before the wind, luffed her up +into it. The wind was so high that it forced the brace of the square-sail out +of the hand of the man who was attending it, and instantly upset the canoe, +which would have been turned bottom upward but for the resistance made +by the awning. Such was the confusion on board, and the waves ran so high, +that it was half a minute before she righted, and then nearly full of water, +but by bailing her out she was kept from sinking until they rowed ashore. +Besides the loss of the lives of three men, who, not being able to swim, +would probably have perished, we should have been deprived of nearly +everything necessary for our purposes, at a distance of between two and +three thousand miles from any place where we could supply the deficiency." + +Fortunately, there was no great loss from this accident, which was caused +by the clumsiness and timidity of the steersman, Chaboneau. Captain Lewis's +account of the incident records that the conduct of Chaboneau's wife, +Sacajawea, was better than that of her cowardly husband. He says:-- + +"The Indian woman, to whom I ascribe equal fortitude and resolution +with any person on board at the time of the accident, caught and preserved +most of the light articles which were washed overboard." + + + +Chapter IX + +In the Solitudes of the Upper Missouri + +Under date of May 17, the journal of the party has the +following interesting entries:-- + +"We set out early and proceeded on very well; the banks being firm and the +shore bold, we were enabled to use the towline, which, whenever the banks will +permit it, is the safest and most expeditious mode of ascending the river, +except under sail with a steady breeze. At the distance of ten and one-half +miles we came to the mouth of a small creek on the south, below which +the hills approach the river, and continue near it during the day. +Three miles further is a large creek on the north; and again, six and +three-quarters miles beyond this, is another large creek, to the south; +both containing a small quantity of running water, of a brackish taste. +The last we called Rattlesnake Creek, from our seeing that animal near it. +Although no timber can be observed on it from the Missouri, it throws out +large quantities of driftwood, among which were some pieces of coal brought +down by the stream. . . . . . . . . . + +The game is in great quantities, but the buffalo are not so numerous +as they were some days ago; two rattlesnakes were seen to-day, and one +of them was killed. It resembles those of the Middle Atlantic States, +being about thirty inches long, of a yellowish brown on the back and sides, +variegated with a row of oval dark brown spots lying transversely +on the back from the neck to the tail, and two other rows of circular +spots of the same color on the sides along the edge of the scuta; +there are one hundred and seventy-six scuta on the belly, and seventeen +on the tail." + +Two days later, the journal records that one of the party +killed a grizzly bear, "which, though shot through the heart, +ran at his usual pace nearly a quarter of a mile before he fell." + +The mouth of the Musselshell River, which was one of the notable +points that marked another stage in the journey, was reached +on the twentieth of May. This stream empties into the Missouri +two thousand two hundred and seventy miles above its mouth, +and is still known by the name given it by its discoverers. +The journal says: + +"It is one hundred and ten yards wide, and contains more water +than streams of that size usually do in this country; its current +is by no means rapid, and there is every appearance of its being +susceptible of navigation by canoes for a considerable distance. +Its bed is chiefly formed of coarse sand and gravel, with an +occasional mixture of black mud; the banks are abrupt and nearly +twelve feet high, so that they are secure from being overflowed; +the water is of a greenish-yellow cast, and much more transparent +than that of the Missouri, which itself, though clearer than below, +still retains its whitish hue and a portion of its sediment. +Opposite the point of junction the current of the Missouri is gentle, +and two hundred and twenty-two yards in width; the bed is principally +of mud, the little sand remaining being wholly confined to the points, +and the water is still too deep to use the setting-pole. + +"If this be, as we suppose, the Musselshell, our Indian information +is that it rises in the first chain of the Rocky mountains not far +from the sources of the Yellowstone, whence in its course to this +place it waters a high broken country, well timbered, particularly on +its borders, and interspersed with handsome fertile plains and meadows. +We have reason, however, to believe, from their giving a similar +account of the timber where we now are, that the timber of which they +speak is similar to that which we have seen for a few days past, +which consists of nothing more than a few straggling small pines and dwarf +cedars on the summits of the hills, nine-tenths of the ground being +totally destitute of wood, and covered with short grass, aromatic herbs, +and an immense quantity of prickly-pear; though the party who explored +it for eight miles represented the low grounds on the river to be well +supplied with cottonwood of a tolerable size, and of an excellent soil. +They also report that the country is broken and irregular, like that +near our camp; and that about five miles up, a handsome river, +about fifty yards wide, which we named after Chaboneau's wife, +Sacajawea's or the Bird-woman's River, discharges into the Musselshell +on the north or upper side." + +Later explorations have shown that the Musselshell rises +in the Little Belt Mountains, considerably to the north of +the sources of the Yellowstone. Modern geography has also taken +from the good Sacajawea the honor of having her name bestowed +on one of the branches of the Musselshell. The stream once +named for her is now known as Crooked Creek: it joins the river +near its mouth, in the central portion of Montana. The journal, +under date of May 22, has this entry:-- + +"The river [the Missouri] continues about two hundred and fifty +yards wide, with fewer sand-bars, and the current more gentle +and regular. Game is no longer in such abundance since leaving +the Musselshell. We have caught very few fish on this side of +the Mandans, and these were the white catfish, of two to five pounds. +We killed a deer and a bear. We have not seen in this quarter +the black bear, common in the United States and on the lower parts +of the Missouri, nor have we discerned any of their tracks. +They may easily be distinguished by the shortness of the talons +from the brown, grizzly, or white bear, all of which seem to be +of the same species, which assumes those colors at different seasons +of the year. We halted earlier than usual, and camped on the north, +in a point of woods, at the distance of sixteen and one half miles +[thus past the site of Fort Hawley, on the south]." + +Notwithstanding the advance of the season, the weather +in those great altitudes grew more and more cold. Under date +of May 23, the journal records the fact that ice appeared along +the edges of the river, and water froze upon their oars. +But notwithstanding the coolness of the nights and mornings, +mosquitoes were very troublesome. + +The explorers judged that the cold was somewhat unusual for that locality, +inasmuch as the cottonwood trees lost their leaves by the frost, +showing that vegetation, generally well suited to the temperature of +its country, or habitat, had been caught by an unusual nip of the frost. +The explorers noticed that the air of those highlands was so pure and +clear that objects appeared to be much nearer than they really were. +A man who was sent out to explore the country attempted to reach a ridge +(now known as the Little Rocky Mountains), apparently about fifteen miles +from the river. He travelled about ten miles, but finding himself not +halfway to the object of his search, he returned without reaching it. + +The party was now just westward of the site of the present town +of Carroll, Montana, on the Missouri. Their journal says:-- + +"The low grounds are narrow and without timber; the country is +high and broken; a large portion of black rock and brown sandy +rock appears in the face of the hills, the tops of which are +covered with scattered pine, spruce, and dwarf cedar; the soil +is generally poor, sandy near the tops of the hills, and nowhere +producing much grass, the low grounds being covered with little +else than the hyssop, or southernwood, and the pulpy-leaved thorn. +Game is more scarce, particularly beaver, of which we have seen +but few for several days, and the abundance or scarcity of which +seems to depend on the greater or less quantity of timber. +At twenty-four and one-half miles we reached a point of woodland +on the south, where we observed that the trees had no leaves, +and camped for the night." + +The "hyssop, or southernwood," the reader now knows to be +the wild sage, or sage-brush. The "pulpy-leaved thorn" +mentioned in the journal is the greasewood ; and both +of these shrubs flourish in the poverty-stricken, sandy, +alkaline soil of the far West and Northwest. The woody fibre +of these furnished the only fuel available for early overland +emigrants to the Pacific. + +The character of this country now changed considerably as the explorers +turned to the northward, in their crooked course, with the river. +On the twenty-fifth of May the journal records this:-- + +"The country on each side is high, broken, and rocky; the rock +being either a soft brown sandstone, covered with a thin stratum +of limestone, or else a hard, black, rugged granite, both usually +in horizontal strata, and the sand-rock overlaying the other. +Salts and quartz, as well as some coal and pumice-stone, still appear. +The bars of the river are composed principally of gravel; +the river low grounds are narrow, and afford scarcely any timber; +nor is there much pine on the hills. The buffalo have now become scarce; +we saw a polecat [skunk] this evening, which was the first for +several days; in the course of the day we also saw several herds +of the bighorned animals among the steep cliffs on the north, +and killed several of them." + +The bighorned animals, the first of which were killed here, +were sometimes called "Rocky Mountain sheep." But sheep +they were not, bearing hair and not wool. As we have said, +they are now more commonly known as bighorns. + +The patience of the explorers was rewarded, on Sunday, May 26, 1806, by their +first view of the Rocky Mountains. Here is the journal's record on that date:-- + +"It was here [Cow Creek, Mont.] that, after ascending the highest summit +of the hills on the north side of the river, Captain Lewis first caught +a distant view of the Rock mountains--the object of all our hopes, +and the reward of all our ambition. On both sides of the river, +and at no great distance from it, the mountains followed its course. +Above these at the distance of fifty miles from us, an irregular +range of mountains spread from west to northwest from his position. +To the north of these, a few elevated points, the most remarkable +of which bore N. 65'0 W., appeared above the horizon; and as the sun +shone on the snows of their summits, he obtained a clear and satisfactory +view of those mountains which close on the Missouri the passage +to the Pacific." + +As they continued to ascend the Missouri they found themselves confronted +by many considerable rapids which sometimes delayed their progress. +They also set forth this observation: "The only animals we have observed +are the elk, the bighorn, and the hare common to this country." +Wayfarers across the plains now call this hare the jack-rabbit. The river +soon became very rapid with a marked descent, indicating their nearness +to its mountain sources. The journal says:-- + +"Its general width is about two hundred yards; the shoals are more frequent, +and the rocky points at the mouths of the gullies more troublesome to pass. +Great quantities of stone lie in the river and on its bank, and seem +to have fallen down as the rain washed away the clay and sand in which +they were imbedded. The water is bordered by high, rugged bluffs, +composed of irregular but horizontal strata of yellow and brown or black clay, +brown and yellowish-white sand, soft yellowish-white sandstone, +and hard dark brown freestone; also, large round kidney-formed irregular +separate masses of a hard black ironstone, imbedded in the clay and sand; +some coal or carbonated wood also makes its appearance in the cliffs, +as do its usual attendants, the pumice-stone and burnt earth. The salts +and quartz are less abundant, and, generally speaking, the country is, +if possible, more rugged and barren than that we passed yesterday; +the only growth of the hills being a few pine, spruce, and dwarf cedar, +interspersed with an occasional contrast, once in the course of some miles, +of several acres of level ground, which supply a scanty subsistence +for a few little cottonwoods." + +But, a few days later, the party passed out of this inhospitable +region, and, after passing a stream which they named Thompson's +(now Birch) Creek, after one of their men, they were glad to make +this entry in their diary: + +"Here the country assumed a totally different aspect: the hills retired +on both sides from the river, which spreads to more than three times +its former size, and is filled with a number of small handsome islands +covered with cottonwood. The low grounds on its banks are again wide, +fertile, and enriched with trees: those on the north are particularly wide, +the hills being comparatively low, and opening into three large valleys, +which extend themselves for a considerable distance towards the north. +These appearances of vegetation are delightful after the dreary hills +among which we have passed; and we have now to congratulate ourselves +at having escaped from the last ridges of the Black Mountains. On leaving +Thompson's Creek we passed two small islands, and at twenty-three miles' +distance encamped among some timber; on the north, opposite to a small creek, +which we named Bull Creek. The bighorn are in great quantities, and must +bring forth their young at a very early season, as they are now half grown. +One of the party saw a large bear also; but, being at a distance from +the river, and having no timber to conceal him, he would not venture to fire." + +A curious adventure happened on the twenty-eighth, of which the journal, +next day, makes this mention:-- + +"Last night we were alarmed by a new sort of enemy. +A buffalo swam over from the opposite side, and to the spot +where lay one of our canoes, over which he clambered to the shore: +then, taking fright, he ran full speed up the bank towards +our fires, and passed within eighteen inches of the heads of some +of the men before the sentinel could make him change his course. +Still more alarmed, he ran down between four fires, +and within a few inches of the heads of a second row of the men, +and would have broken into our lodge if the barking of the dog +had not stopped him. He suddenly turned to the right, +and was out of sight in a moment, leaving us all in confusion, +every one seizing his rifle and inquiring the cause of the alarm. +On learning what had happened, we had to rejoice at suffering +no more injury than some damage to the guns that were in the canoe +which the buffalo crossed. + +..."We passed an island and two sand-bars, and at the distance of two +and a half miles came to a handsome river, which discharges itself on +the South, and which we ascended to the distance of a mile and a half: +we called it Judith's River. It rises in the Rocky Mountains, +in about the same place with the Musselshell, and near the +Yellowstone River. Its entrance is one hundred yards wide from one bank +to the other, the water occupying about seventy-five yards, and being +in greater quantity than that of the Musselshell River. . . . There +were great numbers of the argalea, or bighorned animals, in the high +country through which it passes, and of beaver in its waters. +Just above the entrance of it we saw the ashes of the fires of one +hundred and twenty-six lodges, which appeared to have been deserted +about twelve or fifteen days." + +Leaving Judith's River, named for a sweet Virginia lass, +the explorers sailed, or were towed, seventeen miles up the river, +where they camped at the mouth of a bold, running river to which they +gave the name of Slaughter River. The stream is now known as the Arrow; +the appropriateness of the title conferred on the stream by Lewis +and Clark appears from the story which they tell of their experience +just below "Slaughter River," as follows: + +"On the north we passed a precipice about one hundred and twenty feet high, +under which lay scattered the fragments of at least one hundred +carcasses of buffaloes, although the water which had washed away +the lower part of the hill must have carried off many of the dead. +These buffaloes had been chased down the precipice in a way very common +on the Missouri, by which vast herds are destroyed in a moment. +The mode of hunting is to select one of the most active and fleet +young men, who is disguised by a buffalo-skin round his body; +the skin of the head with the ears and horns being fastened on his +own head in such a way as to deceive the buffalo. Thus dressed, +he fixes himself at a convenient distance between a herd of buffalo +and any of the river precipices, which sometimes extend for some miles. +His companions in the mean time get in the rear and side of the herd, +and at a given signal show themselves and advance toward the buffaloes. +These instantly take the alarm, and finding the hunters beside them, +they run toward the disguised Indian or decoy, who leads them +on at full speed toward the river; when, suddenly securing himself +in some crevice of the cliff which he had previously fixed on, +the herd is left on the brink of the precipice. It is then +in vain for the foremost buffaloes to retreat or even to stop; +they are pressed on by the hindmost rank, which, seeing no danger +but from the hunters, goad on those before them till the whole +are precipitated, and the shore is strewn with their dead bodies. +Sometimes, in this perilous seduction, the Indian is himself either +trodden under foot by the rapid movements of the buffaloes, or missing +his footing in the cliff is urged down the precipice by the falling herd. +The Indians then select as much meat as they wish; the rest +is abandoned to the wolves, and creates a most dreadful stench. +The wolves which had been feasting on these carcasses were very fat, +and so gentle that one of them was killed with an espontoon."[1] + + +[1] A short spear. + + +The dryness and purity of the air roused the admiration of the explorers, +who noticed that the woodwork of the cases of their instruments shrank, +and the joints opened, although the wood was old and perfectly seasoned. +A tablespoonful of water, exposed to the air in an open saucer, +would wholly evaporate in thirty-six hours, when the thermometer did not +mark higher than the "Temperate" point at the warmest hour of the day. +Contrary to their expectations, they had not yet met with any Indians, +although they saw many signs of their having recently been in that vicinity. +The journal says: + +"In the course of the day [May 30] we passed several encampments +of Indians, the most recent of which seemed to have been evacuated +about five weeks since; and, from the several apparent dates, +we supposed that they were formed by a band of about one +hundred lodges, who were travelling slowly up the river. +Although no part of the Missouri from the Minnetarees to this +place exhibits signs of permanent settlements, yet none seem +exempt from the transient visits of hunting-parties. We know +that the Minnetarees of the Missouri extend their excursions +on the south side of the river as high as the Yellowstone, +and the Assiniboins visit the northern side, most probably +as high as Porcupine River. All the lodges between that place +and the Rocky Mountains we supposed to belong to the Minnetarees +of Fort de Prairie, who live on the south fork of the Saskashawan." + +The party now entered upon some of the natural wonders of the West, +which have since become famous. Their journal says:-- + +"These hills and river-cliffs exhibit a most extraordinary and +romantic appearance. They rise in most places nearly perpendicular from +the water, to the height of between two hundred and three hundred feet, +and are formed of very white sandstone, so soft as to yield readily +to the impression of water, in the upper part of which lie imbedded two +or three thin horizontal strata of white freestone, insensible to the rain; +on the top is a dark rich loam, which forms a gradually ascending plain, +from a mile to a mile and a half in extent, when the hills again +rise abruptly to the height of about three hundred feet more. +In trickling down the cliffs, the water has worn the soft sandstone +into a thousand grotesque figures, among which, with a little fancy, +may be discerned elegant ranges of freestone buildings, with columns +variously sculptured, and supporting long and elegant galleries, +while the parapets are adorned with statuary. On a nearer approach they +represent every form of elegant ruins--columns, some with pedestals +and capitals entire, others mutilated and prostrate, and some rising +pyramidally over each other till they terminate in a sharp point. +These are varied by niches, alcoves, and the customary appearances +of desolated magnificence. The illusion is increased by the number +of martins, which have built their globular nests in the niches, +and hover over these columns, as in our country they are accustomed +to frequent large stone structures. As we advance there seems no end +to the visionary enchantment which surrounds us. + +"In the midst of this fantastic scenery are vast ranges of walls, +which seem the productions of art, so regular is the workmanship. +They rise perpendicularly from the river, sometimes to the height +of one hundred feet, varying in thickness from one to twelve feet, +being as broad at the top as below. The stones of which they +are formed are black, thick, durable, and composed of a large +portion of earth, intermixed and cemented with a small quantity +of sand and a considerable proportion of talk [talc] or quartz. +These stones are almost invariably regular parallelopipeds of unequal +sizes in the wall, but equally deep and laid regularly in ranges +over each other like bricks, each breaking and covering the interstice +of the two on which it rests; but though the perpendicular interstice +be destroyed, the horizontal one extends entirely through the whole work. +The stones are proportioned to the thickness of the wall in +which they are employed, being largest in the thickest walls. +The thinner walls are composed of a single depth of the parallelopiped, +while the thicker ones consist of two or more depths. +These walls pass the river at several places, rising from the water's +edge much above the sandstone bluffs, which they seem to penetrate; +thence they cross in a straight line, on either side of the river, +the plains, over which they tower to the height of from ten to +seventy feet, until they lose themselves in the second range of hills. +Sometimes they run parallel in several ranges near to each other, +sometimes intersect each other at right angles, and have the appearance +of walls of ancient houses or gardens." + +The wall-like, canyon formations were charted by Lewis and Clark +as "The Stone Walls." Their fantastic outlines have been admired +and described by modern tourists, and some of them have been +named "Cathedral Rocks," "Citadel Rock," "Hole in the Wall," +and so on. + +Passing out of this wonderful region, the expedition entered upon +a more level country, here and there broken by bluffy formations which +extended along the river, occasionally interspersed with low hills. +Their journal says: + +"In the plains near the river are the choke-cherry, yellow and red +currant bushes, as well as the wild rose and prickly pear, both of which are +now in bloom. From the tops of the river-hills, which are lower than usual, +we enjoyed a delightful view of the rich, fertile plains on both sides, +in many places extending from the river-cliffs to a great distance back. +In these plains we meet, occasionally, large banks of pure sand, +which were driven apparently by the southwest winds and there deposited. +The plains are more fertile some distance from the river than near its banks, +where the surface of the earth is very generally strewed with small pebbles, +which appear to be smoothed and worn by the agitation of the waters with +which they were, no doubt, once covered." + +Under date of June 2d, the journal says:-- + +"The current of the river is strong but regular, the timber increases +in quantity, the low grounds become more level and extensive, +and the bluffs are lower than before. As the game is very abundant, +we think it necessary to begin a collection of hides for the purpose +of making a leathern boat, which we intend constructing shortly. +The hunters, who were out the greater part of the day, +brought in six elk, two buffalo, two mule-deer, and a bear. +This last animal had nearly cost us the lives of two of our hunters, +who were together when he attacked them. One of them narrowly escaped +being caught, and the other, after running a considerable distance, +concealed himself in some thick bushes, and, while the bear +was in quick pursuit of his hiding-place, his companion came up, +and fortunately shot the animal through the head." + +Here the party came to the mouth of a large river which entered +the Missouri from the northwest, at the site of the latter-day +town of Ophir, Montana. This stream they named Maria's River, +in honor of another Virginia damsel. So large and important +in appearance was Maria's River that the explorers were not certain +which was the main stream, that which came in from the north, +or that which, flowing here in a general course from southwest +to northeast, was really the true Missouri. The journal says: + +"It now became an interesting question, which of these two streams +is what the Minnetarees call Ahmateahza, or Missouri, which they +describe as approaching very near to the Columbia. On our right +decision much of the fate of the expedition depends; since if, +after ascending to the Rocky Mountains or beyond them, we should find +that the river we were following did not come near the Columbia, +and be obliged to return, we should not only lose the travelling season, +two months of which have already elapsed, but probably dishearten +the men so much as to induce them either to abandon the enterprise, +or yield us a cold obedience, instead of the warm and zealous +support which they have hitherto afforded us. We determined, +therefore, to examine well before we decided on our future course. +For this purpose we despatched two canoes with three men up each of +the streams, with orders to ascertain the width, depth, and rapidity +of the current, so as to judge of their comparative bodies of water. +At the same time parties were sent out by land to penetrate the country, +and discover from the rising grounds, if possible, the distant bearings +of the two rivers; and all were directed to return toward evening. +. . . . . . . . . + +Both parties returned without bringing any information that would settle +the point. Which was the true Missouri still remained uncertain. +Under these circumstances, it became necessary that there +should be a more thorough exploration, and the next morning +Captains Lewis and Clark set out at the head of two separate parties, +the former to examine the north, and the latter the south fork. +In his progress Captain Lewis and his party were frequently +obliged to quit the course of the river and cross the plains +and hills, but he did not lose sight of its general direction, +and carefully took the bearings of the distant mountains. +On the morning of the third day he became convinced that this river +pursued a course too far north for his contemplated route to the Pacific, +and he accordingly determined to return, but judged it advisable +to wait till noon, that he might obtain a meridian altitude. +In this, however, he was disappointed, owing to the state of the weather. +Much rain had fallen, and their return was somewhat difficult, +and not unattended with danger, as the following incident, +which occurred on June 7th, will show: + +"In passing along the side of a bluff at a narrow pass thirty +yards in length, Captain Lewis slipped, and, but for a fortunate +recovery by means of his spontoon, would have been precipitated +into the river over a precipice of about ninety feet. +He had just reached a spot where, by the assistance of his spontoon, +he could stand with tolerable safety, when he heard a voice +behind him cry out, `Good God, captain, what shall I do?' +He turned instantly, and found it was Windsor, who had +lost his foothold about the middle of the narrow pass, +and had slipped down to the very verge of the precipice, +where he lay on his belly, with his right arm and leg over it, +while with the other leg and arm he was with difficulty +holding on, to keep himself from being dashed to pieces below. +His dreadful situation was instantly perceived by Captain Lewis, +who, stifling his alarm, calmly told him that he was in no danger; +that he should take his knife out of his belt with his right hand, +and dig a hole in the side of the bluff to receive his right foot. +With great presence of mind he did this, and then raised +himself on his knees. Captain Lewis then told him to take +off his moccasins and come forward on his hands and knees, +holding the knife in one hand and his rifle in the other. +He immediately crawled in this way till he came to a secure spot. +The men who had not attempted this passage were ordered +to return and wade the river at the foot of the bluff, +where they found the water breast-high. This adventure taught +them the danger of crossing the slippery heights of the river; +but as the plains were intersected by deep ravines, +almost as difficult to pass, they continued down the river, +sometimes in the mud of the low grounds, sometimes up to their +arms in the water; and when it became too deep to wade, +they cut footholds with their knives in the sides of the banks. +In this way they travelled through the rain, mud, and water, +and having made only eighteen miles during the whole day, camped in +an old Indian lodge of sticks, which afforded them a dry shelter. +Here they cooked part of six deer they had killed in the course +of their walk, and having eaten the only morsel they had tasted +during the whole day, slept comfortably on some willow-boughs." + + + +Chapter X + +To the Great Falls of the Missouri + +Next day, June 8, the Lewis party returned to the main body of +the expedition. They reported that timber was scarce along the river, +except in the lowlands, where there were pretty groves and thickets. +These trees, the journal says, were the haunts of innumerable birds, +which, as the sun rose, sung delightfully:-- + +"Among these birds they distinguished the brown thrush, robin, +turtle-dove, linnet, gold-finch, large and small blackbird, +wren, and some others. As they came along, the whole party +were of opinion that this river was the true Missouri; +but Captain Lewis, being fully persuaded that it was neither +the main stream, nor that which it would be advisable to ascend, +gave it the name of Maria's River. After travelling all day +they reached camp about five o'clock in the afternoon, and found +Captain Clark and the party very anxious for their safety. +As they had stayed two days longer than had been expected, +and as Captain Clark had returned at the appointed time, +it was feared that they had met with some accident." + +As we now know, the stream that came in from the north was that which is still +called Maria's (or Marais) River, and the so-called branch from the southwest +was the Missouri River. Lewis and Clark, however, were in the dark as to the +relations of the two streams. Which was the parent? Which was the branch? +After pondering all the evidence that could be collected to bear on +the important question, the two captains agreed that the southern stream +was the true Missouri, and the northern stream was an important branch. +The journal says: + +"These observations, which satisfied our minds completely, we communicated +to the party; but every one of them was of a contrary opinion. +Much of their belief depended on Crusatte, an experienced waterman on +the Missouri, who gave it as his decided judgment that the north fork was +the genuine Missouri. The men, therefore, mentioned that, although they +would most cheerfully follow us wherever we should direct, yet they were +afraid that the south fork would soon terminate in the Rocky Mountains, +and leave us at a great distance from the Columbia. In order that +nothing might be omitted which could prevent our falling into an error, +it was agreed that one of us should ascend the southern branch by land, +until we reached either the falls or the mountains. In the meantime, +in order to lighten our burdens as much as possible, we determined +to deposit here one of the pirogues, and all the heavy baggage which we +could possibly spare, as well as some provision, salt, powder, and tools. +This would at once lighten the other boats, and give them the crew +which had been employed on board the pirogue." + +On the tenth of June, the weather being fair and pleasant, +they dried all their baggage and merchandise and secreted them +in places of deposits, called caches, as follows:-- + +"These deposits--or caches, as they are called by +the Missouri traders--are very common, particularly among +those who deal with the Sioux, as the skins and merchandise +will keep perfectly sound for years, and are protected +from robbery. Our cache was built in the usual manner. +In the high plain on the north side of the Missouri, and forty +yards from a steep bluff, we chose a dry situation, and then, +describing a small circle of about twenty inches diameter, +removed the sod as gently and carefully as possible: +the hole was then sunk perpendicularly for a foot deep. +It was now worked gradually wider as it descended, till at length +it became six or seven feet deep, shaped nearly like a kettle, +or the lower part of a large still with the bottom somewhat sunk +at the centre. As the earth was dug it was handed up in a vessel, +and carefully laid on a skin or cloth, in which it was carried +away and thrown into the river, so as to leave no trace of it. +A floor of three or four inches in thickness was then made +of dry sticks, on which was placed a hide perfectly dry. +The goods, being well aired and dried, were laid on this floor, +and prevented from touching the wall by other dried sticks, +as the merchandise was stowed away. When the hole was +nearly full, a skin was laid over the goods, and on this earth +was thrown and beaten down, until, with the addition of the sod +first removed, the whole was on a level with the ground, +and there remained not the slightest appearance of an excavation. +In addition to this, we made another of smaller dimensions, +in which we placed all the baggage, some powder, and our +blacksmith's tools, having previously repaired such of the tools +as we carry with us that require mending. To guard against accident, +we had two parcelss of lead and powder in the two places. +The red pirogue was drawn up on the middle of a small island, +at the entrance of Maria's River, and secured, by being +fastened to the trees, from the effects of any floods. +We now took another observation of the meridian altitude +of the sun, and found that the mean latitude of Maria's River, +as deduced from three observations, is 49'0 25' 17.2" N." + +In order to make assurance doubly sure, Captain Lewis resolved +to take four men with him and ascend the south branch (that is, +the true Missouri), before committing the expedition to that route +as the final one. His proposition was that his party should proceed +up the river as rapidly as possible in advance of the main party. +On the second day out, says the journal:-- + +"Captain Lewis left the bank of the river in order to avoid the steep ravines, +which generally run from the shore to the distance of one or two miles +in the plain. Having reached the open country he went for twelve +miles in a course a little to the W. of S.W.; when, the sun becoming +warm by nine o'clock, he returned to the river in quest of water, +and to kill something for breakfast; there being no water in the plain, +and the buffalo, discovering them before they came within gunshot, +took to flight. They reached the banks in a handsome open low ground +with cottonwood, after three miles' walk. Here they saw two large +brown bears, and killed them both at the first fire--a circumstance +which has never before occurred since we have seen that animal. +Having made a meal of a part, and hung the remainder on a tree, +with a note for Captain Clark, they again ascended the bluffs into +the open plains. Here they saw great numbers of the burrowing-squirrel, +also some wolves, antelopes, mule-deer, and vast herds of buffalo. +They soon crossed a ridge considerably higher than the surrounding plains, +and from its top had a beautiful view of the Rocky Mountains, which are +now completely covered with snow. Their general course is from S.E. to +N. of N.W., and they seem to consist of several ranges which successively +rise above each other, till the most distant mingles with the clouds. +After travelling twelve miles they again met the river, where there +was a handsome plain of cottonwood." + +Again leaving the river, Captain Lewis bore off more to the north, +the stream here bearing considerably to the south, with difficult +bluffs along its course. But fearful of passing the Great Falls +before reaching the Rocky Mountains, he again changed his course and, +leaving the bluffs to his right he turned towards the river. + +The journal gives this description of what followed:-- + +"In this direction Captain Lewis had gone about two miles, when his +ears were saluted with the agreeable sound of a fall of water, and as +he advanced a spray, which seemed driven by the high southwest wind, +arose above the plain like a column of smoke, and vanished in an instant. +Toward this point he directed his steps; the noise increased as he approached, +and soon became too tremendous to be mistaken for anything but the Great Falls +of the Missouri. Having travelled seven miles after first hearing the sound, +he reached the falls about twelve o'clock. The hills as he approached +were difficult of access and two hundred feet high. Down these he hurried +with impatience; and, seating himself on some rocks under the centre +of the falls, enjoyed the sublime spectacle of this stupendous object, +which since the creation had been lavishing its magnificence upon the desert, +unknown to civilization. + +"The river immediately at this cascade is three hundred yards wide, +and is pressed in by a perpendicular cliff on the left, which rises +to about one hundred feet and extends up the stream for a mile; +on the right the bluff is also perpendicular for three hundred +yards above the falls. For ninety or one hundred yards from +the left cliff, the water falls in one smooth, even sheet, +over a precipice of at least eighty feet. The remaining part +of the river precipitates itself with a more rapid current, +but being received as it falls by the irregular and somewhat projecting +rocks below, forms a splendid prospect of perfectly white foam, +two hundred yards in length and eighty in perpendicular elevation. +This spray is dissipated into a thousand shapes, sometimes flying +up in columns of fifteen or twenty feet, which are then oppressed +by larger masses of the white foam, on all of which the sun impresses +the brightest colors of the rainbow. Below the fall the water +beats with fury against a ledge of rocks, which extends across +the river at one hundred and fifty yards from the precipice. +From the perpendicular cliff on the north to the distance +of one hundred and twenty yards, the rocks are only a few feet +above the water; and, when the river is high, the stream finds +a channel across them forty yards wide, and near the higher +parts of the ledge, which rise about twenty feet, and terminate +abruptly within eighty or ninety yards of the southern side. +Between them and the perpendicular cliff on the south, the whole +body of water runs with great swiftness. A few small cedars grow +near this ridge of rocks, which serves as a barrier to defend +a small plain of about three acres, shaded with cottonwood; +at the lower extremity of which is a grove of the same trees, +where are several deserted Indian cabins of sticks; below which +the river is divided by a large rock, several feet above the surface +of the water, and extending down the stream for twenty yards. +At the distance of three hundred yards from the same ridge +is a second abutment of solid perpendicular rock, about sixty +feet high, projecting at right angles from the small plain on +the north for one hundred and thirty-four yards into the river. +After leaving this, the Missouri again spreads itself to its +previous breadth of three hundred yards, though with more than +its ordinary rapidity." + +One of Lewis's men was sent back to inform Captain Clark of this +momentous discovery, which finally settled all doubt as to which was the +true Missouri. The famous Great Falls of the river had been finally reached. +Captain Lewis next went on to examine the rapids above the falls. +The journal says:-- + +"After passing one continued rapid and three cascades, each three +or four feet high, he reached, at the distance of five miles, +a second fall. The river is here about four hundred yards wide, +and for the distance of three hundred rushes down to the depth +of nineteen feet, and so irregularly that he gave it the name +of the Crooked Falls. From the southern shore it extends obliquely +upward about one hundred and fifty yards, and then forms an acute +angle downward nearly to the commencement of four small islands close +to the northern side. From the perpendicular pitch to these islands, +a distance of more than one hundred yards, the water glides down +a sloping rock with a velocity almost equal to that of its fall: +above this fall the river bends suddenly to the northward. +While viewing this place, Captain Lewis heard a loud roar above him, +and, crossing the point of a hill a few hundred yards, he saw one +of the most beautiful objects in nature: the whole Missouri is +suddenly stopped by one shelving rock, which, without a single niche, +and with an edge as straight and regular as if formed by art, +stretches itself from one side of the river to the other for at least +a quarter of a mile. Over this it precipitates itself in an even, +uninterrupted sheet, to the perpendicular depth of fifty feet, +whence, dashing against the rocky bottom, it rushes rapidly down, +leaving behind it a sheet of the purest foam across the river. +The scene which it presented was indeed singularly beautiful; +since, without any of the wild, irregular sublimity of the lower falls, +it combined all the regular elegancies which the fancy of a painter +would select to form a beautiful waterfall. The eye had scarcely +been regaled with this charming prospect, when at the distance +of half a mile Captain Lewis observed another of a similar kind. +To this he immediately hastened, and found a cascade stretching across +the whole river for a quarter of a mile, with a descent of fourteen feet, +though the perpendicular pitch was only six feet. This, too, in any +other neighborhood, would have been an object of great magnificence; +but after what he had just seen, it became of secondary interest. +His curiosity being, however, awakened, he determined to go on, +even should night overtake him, to the head of the falls. + +"He therefore pursued the southwest course of the river, +which was one constant succession of rapids and small cascades, +at every one of which the bluffs grew lower, or the bed of the +river became more on a level with the plains. At the distance +of two and one-half miles he arrived at another cataract, +of twenty-six feet. The river is here six hundred yards wide, +but the descent is not immediately perpendicular, though the river +falls generally with a regular and smooth sheet; for about +one-third of the descent a rock protrudes to a small distance, +receives the water in its passage, and gives it a curve. +On the south side is a beautiful plain, a few feet above the level +of the falls; on the north, the country is more broken, and there +is a hill not far from the river. Just below the falls is a little +island in the middle of the river, well covered with timber. +Here on a cottonwood tree an eagle had fixed her nest, and seemed +the undisputed mistress of a spot, to contest whose dominion neither +man nor beast would venture across the gulfs that surround it, +and which is further secured by the mist rising from the falls. +This solitary bird could not escape the observation of the Indians, +who made the eagle's nest a part of their description of the falls, +which now proves to be correct in almost every particular, +except that they did not do justice to the height. + +"Just above this is a cascade of about five feet, beyond which, +as far as could be discerned, the velocity of the water seemed to abate. +Captain Lewis now ascended the hill which was behind him, and saw +from its top a delightful plain, extending from the river to the base +of the Snowy [Rocky] Mountains to the south and southwest. +Along this wide, level country the Missouri pursued its +winding course, filled with water to its smooth, grassy banks, +while about four miles above, it was joined by a large river +flowing from the northwest, through a valley three miles in width, +and distinguished by the timber which adorned its shores. +The Missouri itself stretches to the south, in one unruffled stream +of water, as if unconscious of the roughness it must soon encounter, +and bearing on its bosom vast flocks of geese, while numerous +herds of buffalo are feeding on the plains which surround it. + +"Captain Lewis then descended the hill, and directed +his course towards the river falling in from the west. +He soon met a herd of at least a thousand buffalo, and, +being desirous of providing for supper, shot one of them. +The animal immediately began to bleed, and Captain Lewis, +who had forgotten to reload his rifle, was intently watching +to see him fall, when he beheld a large brown bear which was +stealing on him unperceived, and was already within twenty steps. +In the first moment of surprise he lifted his rifle; but, +remembering instantly that it was not charged, and that he had no +time to reload, he felt that there was no safety but in flight. +It was in the open, level plain; not a bush nor a tree +within three hundred yards; the bank of the river sloping, +and not more than three feet high, so that there was no possible +mode of concealment. Captain Lewis, therefore, thought of +retreating with a quick walk, as fast as the bear advanced, +towards the nearest tree; but, as soon as he turned, +the bear rushed open-mouthed, and at full speed, upon him. +Captain Lewis ran about eighty yards, but finding that the animal +gained on him fast, it flashed on his mind that, by getting +into the water to such a depth that the bear would be obliged +to attack him swimming, there was still some chance of his life; +he therefore turned short, plunged into the river about waist-deep, +and facing about presented the point of his espontoon. +The bear arrived at the water's edge within twenty feet of him; +but as soon as he put himself in this posture of defence, +the bear seemed frightened, and wheeling about, retreated with +as much precipitation as he had pursued. Very glad to be +released from this danger, Captain Lewis returned to the shore, +and observed him run with great speed, sometimes looking back +as if he expected to be pursued, till he reached the woods. +He could not conceive the cause of the sudden alarm of the bear, +but congratulated himself on his escape when he saw his own track +torn to pieces by the furious animal, and learned from the whole +adventure never to suffer his rifle to be a moment unloaded." + +Captain Lewis now resumed his progress towards the western, or Sun, River, +then more commonly known among the Indians as Medicine River. In going +through the lowlands of this stream, he met an animal which he thought +was a wolf, but which was more likely a wolverine, or carcajou. +The journal says:-- + +"It proved to be some brownish yellow animal, standing near its burrow, +which, when he came nigh, crouched, and seemed as if about to spring on him. +Captain Lewis fired, and the beast disappeared in its burrow. +From the track, and the general appearance of the animal, he supposed +it to be of the tiger kind. He then went on; but, as if the beasts +of the forest had conspired against him, three buffalo bulls, +which were feeding with a large herd at the distance of half a mile, +left their companions, and ran at full speed towards him. +He turned round, and, unwilling to give up the field, advanced to meet them: +when they were within a hundred yards they stopped, looked at him for +some time, and then retreated as they came. He now pursued his route +in the dark, reflecting on the strange adventures and sights of the day, +which crowded on his mind so rapidly, that he should have been inclined +to believe it all enchantment if the thorns of the prickly pear, +piercing his feet, had not dispelled at every moment the illusion. +He at last reached the party, who had been very anxious for his safety, +and who had already decided on the route which each should take +in the morning to look for him. Being much fatigued, he supped, +and slept well during the night." + +On awaking the next morning, Captain Lewis found a large rattlesnake +coiled on the trunk of a tree under which he had been sleeping. +He killed it, and found it like those he had seen before, +differing from those of the Atlantic States, not in its colors, +but in the form and arrangement of them. Information was +received that Captain Clark had arrived five miles below, +at a rapid which he did not think it prudent to ascend, +and that he was waiting there for the party above to rejoin him. + +After the departure of Captain Lewis, Captain Clark had remained +a day at Maria's River, to complete the deposit of such articles +as they could dispense with, and started on the twelfth of June. + +Four days later, Captain Clark left the river, having sent +his messenger to Captain Lewis, and began to search for a +proper portage to convey the pirogue and canoes across to +the Columbia River, leaving most of the men to hunt, make wheels +and draw the canoes up a creek which they named Portage Creek, +as it was to be the base of their future operations. +The stream is now known as Belt Mountain Creek. But the explorers +soon found that although the pirogue was to be left behind, +the way was too difficult for a portage even for canoes. +The journal says:-- + +"We found great difficulty and some danger in even ascending +the creek thus far, in consequence of the rapids and rocks +of the channel of the creek, which just above where we brought +the canoes has a fall of five feet, with high steep bluffs beyond it. +We were very fortunate in finding, just below Portage Creek, +a cottonwood tree about twenty-two inches in diameter, large enough +to make the carriage-wheels. It was, perhaps, the only one of the same +size within twenty miles; and the cottonwood which we are obliged +to employ in the other parts of the work is extremely soft and brittle. +The mast of the white pirogue, which we mean to leave behind, +supplied us with two axle-trees. + +"There are vast quantities of buffalo feeding on the plains or watering +in the river, which is also strewed with the floating carcasses and limbs +of these animals. They go in large herds to water about the falls, +and as all the passages to the river near that place are narrow and steep, +the foremost are pressed into the river by the impatience of those behind. +In this way we have seen ten or a dozen disappear over the falls in a +few minutes. They afford excellent food for the wolves, bears, and birds +of prey; which circumstance may account for the reluctance of the bears +to yield their dominion over the neighborhood. + +"The pirogue was drawn up a little below our camp, and secured in a thick +copse of willow-bushes. We now began to form a cache or place of deposit, +and to dry our goods and other articles which required inspection. The wagons +are completed. Our hunters brought us ten deer, and we shot two out of a +herd of buffalo that came to water at Sulphur Spring. There is a species +of gooseberry, growing abundantly among the rocks on the sides of the cliffs. +It is now ripe, of a pale red color, about the size of the common gooseberry, +and like it is an ovate pericarp of soft pulp enveloping a number of small +whitish seeds, and consisting of a yellowish, slimy, mucilaginous substance, +with a sweet taste; the surface of the berry is covered glutinous, +adhesive matter, and its fruit, though ripe, retains its withered corolla. +The shrub itself seldom rises more than two feet high, is much branched, +and has no thorns. The leaves resemble those of the common gooseberry, +except in being smaller, and the berry is supported by separate peduncles +or foot-stalks half an inch long. There are also immense quantities +of grasshoppers, of a brown color, on the plains; they, no doubt, +contribute to the lowness of the grass, which is not generally more than +three inches high, though it is soft, narrow-leaved, and affords a fine +pasture for the buffalo." + + + +Chapter XI + +A the Heart of the Continent + +Captain Clark continued his observations up the long series +of rapids and falls until he came to a group of three small +islands to which he gave the name of White Bear Islands, +from his having seen numerous white, or grizzly, bears on them. +On the nineteenth of June, Captain Clark, after a careful survey +of the country on both sides of the stream, decided that the best +place for a portage was on the south, or lower, side of the river, +the length of the portage being estimated to be about eighteen +miles, over which the canoes and supplies must be carried. +Next day he proceeded to mark out the exact route of the portage, +or carry, by driving stakes along its lines and angles. +From the survey and drawing which he made, the party now had +a clear and accurate view of the falls, cascades, and rapids +of the Missouri; and, it may be added, this draught, which is +reproduced on another page of this book, is still so correct +in all its measurements that when a Montana manufacturing +company undertook to build a dam at Black Eagle Falls, +nearly one hundred years afterwards, they discovered that their +surveys and those of Captain Clark were precisely alike. +The total fall of the river, from the White Bear Islands, +as Lewis and Clark called them, to the foot of the Great Falls, +is four hundred twelve and five-tenths feet; the sheer drop +of the Great Fall is seventy-five and five-tenths feet. +The wild, trackless prairie of Lewis and Clark's time is +now the site of the thriving town of Great Falls, which has +a population of ten thousand. + +Here is a lucid and connected account of the falls and rapids, +discovered and described by Lewis and Clark: + +"This river is three hundred yards wide at the point where it +receives the waters of Medicine [Sun] River, which is one hundred +and thirty-seven yards in width. The united current continues three +hundred and twenty-eight poles to a small rapid on the north side, +from which it gradually widens to fourteen hundred yards, and at +the distance of five hundred and forty-eight poles reaches the head +of the rapids, narrowing as it approaches them. Here the hills +on the north, which had withdrawn from the bank, closely border +the river, which, for the space of three hundred and twenty poles, +makes its way over the rocks, with a descent of thirty feet. +In this course the current is contracted to five hundred and eighty yards, +and after throwing itself over a small pitch of five feet, forms a +beautiful cascade of twenty-six feet five inches; this does not, +however, fall immediately or perpendicularly, being stopped by a part +of the rock, which projects at about one-third of the distance. +After descending this fall, and passing the cottonwood island on +which the eagle has fixed her nest, the river goes on for five hundred +and thirty-two poles over rapids and little falls, the estimated +descent of which is thirteen and one-half feet, till it is joined +by a large fountain boiling up underneath the rocks near the edge +of the river, into which it falls with a cascade of eight feet. +The water of this fountain is of the most perfect clearness, +and of rather a bluish cast; and, even after falling into the Missouri, +it preserves its color for half a mile. From the fountain the river +descends with increased rapidity for the distance of two hundred +and fourteen poles, during which the estimated descent is five feet; +and from this, for a distance of one hundred and thirty-five poles, +it descends fourteen feet seven inches, including a perpendicular +fall of six feet seven inches. The Missouri has now become pressed +into a space of four hundred and seventy-three yards, and here forms +a grand cataract, by falling over a plain rock the whole distance +across the river, to the depth of forty-seven feet eight inches. +After recovering itself, it then proceeds with an estimated descent +of three feet, till, at the distance of one hundred and two poles, +it is precipitated down the Crooked Falls nineteen feet perpendicular. +Below this, at the mouth of a deep ravine, is a fall of five feet; +after which, for the distance of nine hundred and seventy poles, +the descent is much more gradual, not being more than ten feet, +and then succeeds a handsome level plain for the space of one hundred +and seventy-eight poles, with a computed descent of three feet, +the river making a bend towards the north. Thence it descends, +for four hundred and eighty poles, about eighteen and one-half feet, +when it makes a perpendicular fall of two feet, which is ninety poles +beyond the great cataract; in approaching which, it descends thirteen +feet within two hundred yards, and, gathering strength from its +confined channel, which is only two hundred and eighty yards wide, +rushes over the fall to the depth of eighty-seven feet. + +"After raging among the rocks, and losing itself in foam, it is +compressed immediately into a bed of ninety-three yards in width: +it continues for three hundred and forty poles to the entrance of a run +or deep ravine, where there is a fall of three feet, which, added to +the decline during that distance, makes the descent six feet. +As it goes on, the descent within the next two hundred and forty poles +is only four feet; from this, passing a run or deep ravine, the descent +in four hundred poles is thirteen feet; within two hundred and forty poles, +another descent of eighteen feet; thence, in one hundred and sixty poles, +a descent of six feet; after which, to the mouth of Portage Creek, +a distance of two hundred and eighty poles, the descent is ten feet. +From this survey and estimate, it results that the river experiences +a descent of three hundred and fifty-two feet in the distance of two +and three quarter miles, from the commencement of the rapids to the mouth +of Portage Creek, exclusive of the almost impassable rapids which extend +for a mile below its entrance." + +On the twenty-first of the month, all the needed preparations having +been finished, the arduous work of making the portage, or carry, +was begun. All the members of the expedition were now together, +and the two captains divided with their men the labor of hunting, +carrying luggage, boat-building, exploring, and so on. +They made three camps, the lower one on Portage Creek, +the next at Willow Run [see map], and a third at a point opposite +White Bear Islands. The portage was not completed until July second. +They were often delayed by the breaking down of their +rude carriages, and during the last stage of their journey +much of their luggage was carried on the backs of the men. +They were also very much annoyed with the spines of the prickly pear, +a species of cactus, which, growing low on the ground, +is certain to be trampled upon by the wayfarer. The spines ran +through the moccasins of the men and sorely wounded their feet. +Thus, under date of June twenty-fourth, the journal says +(It should be understood that the portage was worked from above +and below the rapids):-- + +"On going down yesterday Captain Clark cut off several angles +of the former route, so as to shorten the portage considerably, +and marked it with stakes. He arrived there in time to have two +of the canoes carried up in the high plain, about a mile in advance. +Here they all repaired their moccasins, and put on double soles to protect +them from the prickly pear, and from the sharp points of earth which have +been formed by the trampling of the buffalo during the late rains. +This of itself is sufficient to render the portage disagreeable +to one who has no burden; but as the men are loaded as heavily +as their strength will permit, the crossing is really painful. +Some are limping with the soreness of their feet; others are scarcely +able to stand for more than a few minutes, from the heat and fatigue. +They are all obliged to halt and rest frequently; at almost every +stopping-place they fall, and many of them are asleep in an instant; +yet no one complains, and they go on with great cheerfulness. +At the camp, midway in the portage, Drewyer and Fields joined them; +for, while Captain Lewis was looking for them at Medicine River, +they returned to report the absence of Shannon, about whom they had +been very uneasy. They had killed several buffalo at the bend of +the Missouri above the falls, dried about eight hundred pounds of meat, +and got one hundred pounds of tallow; they had also killed some deer, +but had seen no elk." + +Under this date, too, Captain Lewis, who was with another branch +of the expedition, makes this note: "Such as were able to shake +a foot amused themselves in dancing on the green to the music +of the violin which Cruzatte plays extremely well." + +The journal continues:-- + +"We were now occupied [at White Bear camp] in fitting up a boat of skins, +the frame of which had been prepared for the purpose at Harper's Ferry +in Virginia. It was made of iron, thirty-six feet long, four and +one-half feet in the beam, and twenty-six inches wide in the bottom. +Two men had been sent this morning for timber to complete it, +but they could find scarcely any even tolerably straight sticks four +and one-half feet long; and as the cottonwood is too soft and brittle, +we were obliged to use willow and box-elder." + +On the twenty-seventh, the main party, which was working on the upper +part of the portage, joined that of Captain Clark at the lower camp, +where a second cache, or place of deposit, had been formed, +and where the boat-swivel was now hidden under the rocks. +The journal says:-- + +"The party were employed in preparing timber for the boat, except two +who were sent to hunt. About one in the afternoon a cloud arose from +the southwest, and brought with it violent thunder, lightning, and hail. +Soon after it passed, the hunters came in, from about four miles above us. +They had killed nine elk and three bears. As they were hunting on +the river they saw a low ground covered with thick brushwood, where from +the tracks along shore they thought a bear had probably taken refuge. +They therefore landed, without making a noise, and climbed a tree +about twenty feet above the ground. Having fixed themselves securely, +they raised a loud shout, and a bear instantly rushed toward them. +These animals never climb, and therefore when he came to the tree and stopped +to look at them, Drewyer shot him in the head. He proved to be the largest +we had yet seen; his nose appeared to be like that of a common ox; +his fore feet measured nine inches across; the hind feet were seven +inches wide and eleven and three quarters long, exclusive of the talons. +One of these animals came within thirty yards of the camp last night, +and carried off some buffalo-meat which we had placed on a pole." + +The party were very much annoyed here by the grizzlies +which infested their camp at night. Their faithful dog +always gave warning of the approach of one of these monsters; +but the men were obliged to sleep with their guns by their side, +ready to repel the enemy at a moment's notice. + +Captain Clark finally broke up the camp on Portage Creek, June 28, having +deposited in his cache whatever could be left behind without inconvenience. +"On the following day," the journal says:-- + +"Finding it impossible to reach the upper end of the portage +with the present load, in consequence of the state of the road +after the rain, he sent back nearly all his party to bring +on the articles which had been left yesterday. Having lost +some notes and remarks which he had made on first ascending +the river, he determined to go up to the Whitebear Islands +along its banks, in order to supply the deficiency. +He there left one man to guard the baggage, and went on to the falls, +accompanied by his servant York, Chaboneau, and his wife +with her young child. + +"On his arrival there he observed a very dark cloud rising in the west, +which threatened rain, and looked around for some shelter; +but could find no place where the party would be secure +from being blown into the river, if the wind should prove +as violent as it sometimes does in the plains. At length, +about a quarter of a mile above the falls, he found a deep ravine, +where there were some shelving rocks, under which he took refuge. +They were on the upper side of the ravine near the river, +perfectly safe from the rain, and therefore laid down their guns, +compass, and other articles which they carried with them. +The shower was at first moderate; it then increased +to a heavy rain, the effects of which they did not feel; +but soon after, a torrent of rain and hail descended. +The rain seemed to fall in a solid mass, and instantly, +collecting in the ravine, came rolling down in a dreadful current, +carrying the mud, rocks, and everything that opposed it. +Captain Clark fortunately saw it a moment before it reached them, +and springing up with his gun and shot-pouch in his left hand, +with his right clambered up the steep bluff, pushing on the Indian +woman with her child in her arms; her husband too had seized +her hand and was pulling her tip the hill, but he was so +terrified at the danger that he remained frequently motionless; +and but for Captain Clark, himself and his wife and child would +have been lost. So instantaneous was the rise of the water that, +before Captain Clark had reached his gun and begun to ascend the bank, +the water was up to his waist, and he could scarcely get up +faster than it rose, till it reached the height of fifteen feet, +with a furious current which, had they waited a moment longer, +would have swept them into the river just above the Great Falls, +down which they must inevitably have been precipitated. +They reached the plain in safety and found York, who had +separated from them just before the storm to hunt some buffalo, +and was now returning to find his master. They had been obliged +to escape so rapidly that Captain Clark lost his compass +[that is, circumferentor] and umbrella, Chaboneau left his gun, +with Captain Lewis' wiping-rod, shot-pouch, and tomahawk, +and the Indian woman had just time to grasp her child, +before the net in which it lay at her feet was carried +down the current." + +Such a storm is known in the West as a cloud-burst. Overland emigrants in +the early rush to California often suffered loss from these sudden deluges. +A party of men, with wagons and animals, have been known to be swept away +and lost in a flood bursting in a narrow canyon in the mountains. + +"Captain Clark now relinquished his intention of going up the river, +and returned to the camp at Willow Run. Here he found that +the party sent this morning for the baggage had all returned +to camp in great confusion, leaving their loads in the plain. +On account of the heat, they generally go nearly naked, and with no +covering on their heads. The hail was so large, and driven so furiously +against them by the high wind, that it knocked several of them down: +one of them, particularly, was thrown on the ground three times, and most +of them were bleeding freely, and complained of being much bruised. +Willow Run had risen six feet since the rain; and, as the plains +were so wet that they could not proceed, they passed the night +at their camp. + +"At the White Bear camp, also," (says Lewis), "we had not been +insensible to the hailstorm, though less exposed. In the morning +there had been a heavy shower of rain, after which it became fair. +After assigning to the men their respective employments, +Captain Lewis took one of them, and went to see the large fountain +near the falls. . . . It is, perhaps, the largest in America, +and is situated in a pleasant level plain, about twenty-five yards +from the river, into which it falls over some steep, irregular rocks, +with a sudden ascent of about six feet in one part of its course. +The water boils up from among the rocks, and with such force near +the centre that the surface seems higher there than the earth on +the sides of the fountain, which is a handsome turf of fine green grass. +The water is extremely pure, cold, and pleasant to the taste, +not being impregnated with lime or any foreign substance. +It is perfectly transparent, and continues its bluish cast for half +a mile down the Missouri, notwithstanding the rapidity of the river. +After examining it for some time, Captain Lewis returned to the camp. + +. . . "Two men were sent [June 30] to the falls to look for the +articles lost yesterday; but they found nothing but the compass, +covered with mud and sand, at the mouth of the ravine. The place at which +Captain Clark had been caught by the storm was filled with large rocks. +The men complain much of the bruises received yesterday from the hail. +A more than usual number of buffalo appeared about the camp to-day, +and furnished plenty of meat. Captain Clark thought that at one view +he must have seen at least ten thousand." + +Of the party at the upper camp, opposite White Bear Islands, +the journal makes this observation:-- + +"The party continues to be occupied with the boat, the cross-bars +for which are now finished, and there remain only the strips +to complete the woodwork. The skins necessary to cover it have +already been prepared; they amount to twenty-eight elk-skins +and four buffalo-skins. Among our game were two beaver, which we +have had occasion to observe are found wherever there is timber. +We also killed a large bull-bat or goatsucker, of which there +are many in this neighborhood, resembling in every respect +those of the same species in the United States. We have not +seen the leather-winged bat for some time, nor are there any +of the small goatsucker in this part of the Missouri. We have +not seen that species of goatsucker called the whippoorwill, +which is commonly confounded in the United States with the large +goatsucker which we observe here. This last prepares no nest, +but lays its eggs on the open plains; they generally begin to sit +on two eggs, and we believe raise only one brood in a season; +at the present moment they are just hatching their young." + +Dr. Coues says that we should bear in mind that this was written +"when bats were birds and whales were fishes for most persons." +The journal confounds bats, which are winged mammals, with goatsuckers, +or whippoorwills, which are birds. + +The second of July was an interesting date for the explorers. +On that day we find the following entry in their journal:-- + +"A shower of rain fell very early this morning. We then +despatched some men for the baggage left behind yesterday, +and the rest were engaged in putting the boat together. +This was accomplished in about three hours, and then we began +to sew on the leather over the crossbars of iron on the inner +side of the boat which form the ends of the sections. +By two o'clock the last of the baggage arrived, to the great +delight of the party, who were anxious to proceed. +The mosquitoes we find very troublesome. + +"Having completed our celestial observations, we went over to the large +island to make an attack upon its inhabitants, the bears, which have annoyed +us very much of late, and were prowling about our camp all last night. +We found that the part of the island frequented by the bears +forms an almost impenetrable thicket of the broad-leaved willow. +Into this we forced our way in parties of three; but could see only +one bear, which instantly attacked Drewyer. Fortunately, as he was +rushing on, the hunter shot him through the heart within twenty +paces and he fell, which enabled Drewyer to get out of his way. +We then followed him one hundred yards, and found that the wound +had been mortal. + +"Not being able to discover any more of these animals, we returned +to camp. Here, in turning over some of the baggage, we caught a rat +somewhat larger than the common European rat, and of a lighter color; +the body and outer parts of the legs and head of a light lead color; +the inner side of the legs, as well as the belly, feet, and ears, white; +the ears are not covered with hair, and are much larger than those of +the common rat; the toes also are longer; the eyes are black and prominent, +the whiskers very long and full; the tail is rather longer than the body, +and covered with fine fur and hair of the same size with that on +the back, which is very close, short, and silky in its texture. +This was the first we had met, although its nests are very frequent +in the cliffs of rocks and hollow trees, where we also found large +quantities of the shells and seed of the prickly-pear." + +The queer rat discovered by Lewis and Clark was then unknown to science. +It is now known in the Far West as the pack-rat. It lives in holes and +crevices of the rocks, and it subsists on the shells and seeds of the prickly +pear, which is usually abundant in the hunting grounds of the little animal. +The explorers were now constantly in full view of the Rocky Mountain, +on which, however, their present title had not then been conferred. +Under date of July 2, the journal says:-- + +"The mosquitoes are uncommonly troublesome. The wind was again high +from the southwest. These winds are in fact always the coldest +and most violent which we experience, and the hypothesis which we +have formed on that subject is, that the air, coming in contact +with the Snowy Mountains, immediately becomes chilled and condensed, +and being thus rendered heavier than the air below, it descends +into the rarefied air below, or into the vacuum formed by +the constant action of the sun on the open unsheltered plains. +The clouds rise suddenly near these mountains, and distribute +their contents partially over the neighboring plains. +The same cloud will discharge hail alone in one part, hail and +rain in another, and rain only in a third, all within the space +of a few miles; while at the same time there is snow falling +on the mountains to the southeast of us. There is at present no +snow on those mountains; that which covered them on our arrival, +as well as that which has since fallen, having disappeared. +The mountains to the north and northwest of us are still entirely +covered with snow; indeed, there has been no perceptible +diminution of it since we first saw them, which induces +a belief either that the clouds prevailing at this season do +not reach their summits or that they deposit their snow only. +They glisten with great beauty when the sun shines on them +in a particular direction, and most probably from this glittering +appearance have derived the name of the Shining Mountains." + +A mysterious noise, heard by the party, here engaged their attention, +as it did years afterwards the attention of other explorers. +The journal says:-- + +"Since our arrival at the falls we have repeatedly heard a strange noise +coming from the mountains in a direction a little to the north of west. +It is heard at different periods of the day and night (sometimes when the air +is perfectly still and without a cloud), and consists of one stroke only, +or of five or six discharges in quick succession. It is loud, and resembles +precisely the sound of a six-pound piece of ordnance at the distance of +three miles. The Minnetarees frequently mentioned this noise, like thunder, +which they said the mountains made; but we had paid no attention to it, +believing it to have been some superstition, or perhaps a falsehood. +The watermen also of the party say that the Pawnees and Ricaras give the same +account of a noise heard in the Black Mountains to the westward of them. +The solution of the mystery given by the philosophy of the watermen is, +that it is occasioned by the bursting of the rich mines of silver confined +within the bosom of the mountains." + +Of these strange noises there are many explanations, the most plausible +being that they are caused by the explosion of the species of stone known +as the geode, fragments of which are frequently found among the mountains. +The geode has a hollow cell within, lined with beautiful crystals +of many colors. + +Independence Day, 1805, was celebrated with becoming patriotism +and cheerfulness by these far-wandering adventurers. +Their record says:-- + +"An elk and a beaver are all that were killed to-day; +the buffalo seem to have withdrawn from our neighborhood, +though several of the men, who went to-day to visit the falls for +the first time, mention that they are still abundant at that place. +We contrived, however, to spread not a very sumptuous but a +comfortable table in honor of the day, and in the evening gave +the men a drink of spirits, which was the last of our stock. +Some of them appeared sensible to the effects of even so small +a quantity; and as is usual among them on all festivals, +the fiddle was produced and a dance begun, which lasted till nine +o'clock, when it was interrupted by a heavy shower of rain. +They continued their merriment, however, till a late hour." + +Their bill-of-fare, according to Captain Lewis, was bacon, beans, +suet dumplings, and buffalo meat, which, he says, "gave them no just +cause to covet the sumptuous feasts of our countrymen on this day." +More than a year passed before they again saw and tasted spirits. + +Great expectations were entertained of the boat that was built here on +the iron frame brought all the way from Harper's Ferry, Virginia. The frame +was covered with dressed skins of buffalo and elk, the seams being coated with +a composition of powdered charcoal and beeswax, in default of tar or pitch. +This craft was well named the "Experiment," and a disappointing experiment +it proved to be. Here is Captain Lewis' account of her failure: + +"The boat having now become sufficiently dry, we gave her a coat +of the composition, which after a proper interval was repeated, +and the next morning, Tuesday, July 9th, she was launched into the water, +and swam perfectly well. The seats were then fixed and the oars fitted; +but after we had loaded her, as well as the canoes, and were on the point +of setting out, a violent wind caused the waves to wet the baggage, +so that we were forced to unload the boats. The wind continued +high until evening, when to our great disappointment we discovered +that nearly all the composition had separated from the skins and left +the seams perfectly exposed; so that the boat now leaked very much. +To repair this misfortune without pitch is impossible, and as none of that +article is to be procured, we therefore, however reluctantly, are obliged +to abandon her, after having had so much labor in the construction. +We now saw that the section of the boat covered with buffalo-skins +on which hair had been left answered better than the elk-skins, +and leaked but little; while that part which was covered with hair +about one-eighth of an inch retained the composition perfectly, +and remained sound and dry. From this we perceived that had we employed +buffalo instead of elk skins, not singed them so closely as we did, +and carefully avoided cutting the leather in sewing, the boat would +have been sufficient even with the present composition; or had we +singed instead of shaving the elk-skins, we might have succeeded. +But we discovered our error too late; the buffalo had deserted us, +and the travelling season was so fast advancing that we had no time +to spare for experiments; therefore, finding that she could be no +longer useful, she was sunk in the water, so as to soften the skins, +and enable us the more easily to take her to pieces. + +"It now became necessary to provide other means for transporting +the baggage which we had intended to stow in her. +For this purpose we shall want two more canoes; but for many miles-- +from below the mouth of the Musselshell River to this place-- +we have not seen a single tree fit to be used in that way. +The hunters, however, who have hitherto been sent after timber, +mention that there is a low ground on the opposite side of the river, +about eight miles above us by land, and more than twice that +distance by water, in which we may probably find trees large +enough for our purposes. Captain Clark determined, therefore, +to set out by land for that place with ten of the best workmen, +who would be occupied in building the canoes till the rest +of the party, after taking the boat to pieces, and making +the necessary deposits, should transport the baggage, and join +them with the other six canoes. + +"He accordingly passed over to the opposite side of the river +with his party next day, and proceeded on eight miles by land, +the distance by water being twenty-three and three quarter miles. +Here he found two cottonwood trees; but, on cutting them down, +one proved to be hollow, split at the top in falling, and both +were much damaged at the bottom. He searched the neighborhood, +but could find none which would suit better, and therefore +was obliged to make use of those which he had felled, +shortening them in order to avoid the cracks, and supplying +the deficiency by making them as wide as possible. +They were equally at a loss for wood of which they might make +handles for their axes, the eyes of which not being round, +they were obliged to split the timber in such a manner +that thirteen of the handles broke in the course of the day, +though made of the best wood they could find for the purpose, +which was the chokecherry. + +"The rest of the party took the frame of the boat to pieces, +deposited it in a cache or hole, with a draught of the country +from Fort Mandan to this place, and also some other papers +and small articles of less importance." + +High winds prevented the party from making rapid progress, +and notwithstanding the winds they were greatly troubled with mosquitoes. +Lest the reader should think the explorers too sensitive on the subject +of these troublesome pests, it should be said that only western travellers +can realize the numbers and venom of the mosquitoes of that region. +Early emigrants across the continent were so afflicted by these +insects that the air at times seemed full of gray clouds of them. +It was the custom of the wayfarers to build a "smudge," as it +was called, a low, smouldering fire of green boughs and brush, +the dense smoke from which (almost as annoying as the mosquitoes) +would drive off their persecutors as long, as the victims sat in the smoke. +The sleeping tent was usually cleared in this way before "turning in" +at night, every opening of the canvas being afterwards closed. + +Captain Lewis, on the thirteenth of July, followed Captain Clark up +the river; crossing the stream to the north bank, with his six canoes +and all his baggage, he overtook the other party on the same day +and found them all engaged in boat-building. + +"On his way he passed a very large Indian lodge, which was probably +designed as a great council-house; but it differed in its construction +from all that we had seen, lower down the Missouri or elsewhere. +The form of it was a circle two hundred and sixteen feet in circumference +at the base; it was composed of sixteen large cottonwood poles about +fifty feet long and at their thicker ends, which touched the ground, +about the size of a man's body. They were distributed at equal distances, +except that one was omitted to the cast, probably for the entrance. +From the circumference of this circle the poles converged toward the centre, +where they were united and secured by large withes of willow-brush. There +was no covering over this fabric, in the centre of which were the remains +of a large fire, and around it the marks of about eighty leathern lodges. +He also saw a number of turtle-doves, and some pigeons, of which he shot one, +differing in no respect from the wild pigeon of the United States. +. . . . . . . . . + +The buffalo have not yet quite gone, for the hunters brought in three, +in very good order. It requires some diligence to supply us plentifully, +for as we reserve our parched meal for the Rocky Mountains, +where we do not expect to find much game, our principal article +of food is meat, and the consumption of the whole thirty-two persons +belonging to the party amounts to four deer, an elk and a deer, +or one buffalo, every twenty-four hours. The mosquitoes and gnats +persecute us as violently as below, so that we can get no sleep +unless defended by biers [nets], with which we are all provided. +We here found several plants hitherto unknown to us, of which +we preserved specimens." + +On the fourteenth of July, the boats were finally launched, +and next day the journal records this important event: + +"We rose early, embarked all our baggage on board the canoes, which, +though eight in number, are heavily loaded, and at ten o'clock +set out on our journey. . . . At the distance of seven and a half +miles we came to the lower point of a woodland, at the entrance +of a beautiful river, which, in honor of the Secretary of the Navy, +we called Smith's River. This stream falls into a bend on +the south side of the Missouri, and is eighty yards wide. +As far as we could discern its course, it wound through a charming +valley towards the southeast, in which many herds of buffalo +were feeding, till, at the distance of twenty-five miles, +it entered the Rocky Mountains and was lost from our view. . . . + +"We find the prickly pear, one of the greatest beauties as well +as greatest inconveniences of the plains, now in full bloom. +The sunflower, too, a plant common on every part of the Missouri +from its entrance to this place, is here very abundant, and in bloom. +The lamb's-quarter, wild cucumber, sand-rush, and narrow dock, +are also common." + +The journal here records the fact that the great river had now become +so crooked that it was expedient to note only its general course, +leaving out all description of its turns and windings. +The Missouri was now flowing due north, leaving its bends out of account, +and the explorers, ascending the river, were therefore travelling south; +and although the journal sets forth "the north bank" and "the +south bank," it should be understood that west is meant by the one, +and east by the other. Buffalo were observed in great numbers. +Many obstacles to navigating the river were encountered. +Under date of July 17, the journal says: + +"The navigation is now very laborious. The river is deep, +but with little current, and from seventy to one hundred yards wide; +the low grounds are very narrow, with but little timber, and that chiefly +the aspen tree. The cliffs are steep, and hang over the river so much +that often we could not cross them, but were obliged to pass and repass +from one side of the river to the other, in order to make our way. +In some places the banks are formed of dark or black granite rising +perpendicularly to a great height, through which the river seems, +in the progress of time, to have worn its channel. On these mountains +we see more pine than usual, but it is still in small quantities. +Along the bottoms, which have a covering of high grass, we observed +the sunflower blooming in great abundance. The Indians of the Missouri, +more especially those who do not cultivate maize, make great use of the seed +of this plant for bread, or in thickening their soup. They first parch +and then pound it between two stones, until it is reduced to a fine meal. +Sometimes they add a portion of water, and drink it thus diluted; +at other times they add a sufficient proportion of marrow-grease to reduce +it to the consistency of common dough, and eat it in that manner. +This last composition we preferred to all the rest, and thought it +at that time a very palatable dish." + +They also feasted on a great variety of wild berries, purple, yellow, +and black currants, which were delicious and more pleasant to the palate than +those grown in their Virginia home-gardens; also service-berries, popularly +known to later emigrants as "sarvice-berries." These grow on small bushes, +two or three feet high; and the fruit is purple-skinned, with a white pulp, +resembling a ripe gooseberry. + +The journal, next day, has the following entry:-- + +"This morning early, before our departure, we saw a large +herd of the big-horned animals, which were bounding among +the rocks on the opposite cliff with great agility. +These inaccessible spots secure them from all their enemies, +and their only danger is in wandering among these precipices, +where we would suppose it scarcely possible for any animal to stand; +a single false step would precipitate them at least five hundred +feet into the water. + +"At one and one fourth miles we passed another single cliff on the left; +at the same distance beyond which is the mouth of a large river +emptying from the north. It is a handsome, bold, and clear stream, +eighty yards wide--that is, nearly as broad as the Missouri--with a +rapid current, over a bed of small smooth stones of various figures. +The water is extremely transparent; the low grounds are narrow, +but possess as much wood as those of the Missouri. The river has +every appearance of being navigable, though to what distance we +cannot ascertain, as the country which it waters is broken and mountainous. +In honor of the Secretary of War we called it Dearborn's River." + +General Henry Dearborn, who was then Secretary of War, +in Jefferson's administration, gave his name, a few years later, +to a collection of camps and log-cabins on Lake Michigan; +and in due time Fort Dearborn became the great city +of Chicago. Continuing, the journal says: + +"Being now very anxious to meet with the Shoshonees or Snake Indians, +for the purpose of obtaining the necessary information of our route, +as well as to procure horses, it was thought best for one of us +to go forward with a small party and endeavor to discover them, +before the daily discharge of our guns, which is necessary +for our subsistence, should give them notice of our approach. +If by an accident they hear us, they will most probably retreat +to the mountains, mistaking us for their enemies, who usually +attack them on this side." . . . . . . . . . + +Captain Clark was now in the lead with a small party, +and he came upon the remains of several Indian camps formed +of willow-brush, Traces of Indians became more plentiful. +The journal adds:-- + +"At the same time Captain Clark observed that the pine trees +had been stripped of their bark about the same season, +which our Indian woman says her countrymen do in order to obtain +the sap and the soft parts of the wood and bark for food. +About eleven o'clock he met a herd of elk and killed two of them; +but such was the want of wood in the neighborhood that he was unable +to procure enough to make a fire, and was therefore obliged to substitute +the dung of the buffalo, with which he cooked his breakfast. +They then resumed their course along an old Indian road. +In the afternoon they reached a handsome valley, watered by a large creek, +both of which extended a considerable distance into the mountain. +This they crossed, and during the evening travelled over a mountainous +country covered with sharp fragments of flint rock; these bruised +and cut their feet very much, but were scarcely less troublesome +than the prickly-pear of the open plains, which have now become +so abundant that it is impossible to avoid them, and the thorns +are so strong that they pierce a double sole of dressed deer-skin; +the best resource against them is a sole of buffalo-hide in +parchment [that is, hard dried]. At night they reached the river +much fatigued, having passed two mountains in the course of the day, +and travelled thirty miles. Captain Clark's first employment, +on lighting a fire, was to extract from his feet the thorns, +which he found seventeen in number." + +The dung of the buffalo, exposed for many years to the action of sun, +wind, and rain, became as dry and firm as the finest compressed hay. +As "buffalo chips," in these treeless regions, it was the overland emigrants' +sole dependence for fuel. + +The explorers now approached a wonderful pass in the Rocky Mountains +which their journal thus describes: + +"A mile and a half beyond this creek [Cottonwood Creek] the rocks approach +the river on both sides, forming a most sublime and extraordinary spectacle. +For five and three quarter miles these rocks rise perpendicularly +from the water's edge to the height of nearly twelve hundred feet. +They are composed of a black granite near their base, but from the lighter +color above, and from the fragments, we suppose the upper part to be flint +of a yellowish brown and cream color. + +"Nothing can be imagined more tremendous than the frowning darkness of +these rocks, which project over the river and menace us with destruction. +The river, one hundred and fifty yards in width, seems to have forced +its channel down this solid mass; but so reluctantly has it given way, +that during the whole distance the water is very deep even at the edges, +and for the first three miles there is not a spot, except one of a few yards, +in which a man could stand between the water and the towering perpendicular +of the mountain. The convulsion of the passage must have been terrible, +since at its outlet there are vast columns of rock torn from the mountain, +which are strewed on both sides of the river, the trophies, as it were, +of its victory. Several fine springs burst out from the chasms of the rock, +and contribute to increase the river, which has a strong current, +but, very fortunately, we were able to overcome it with our oars, +since it would have been impossible to use either the cord or the pole. +We were obliged to go on some time after dark, not being able to find +a spot large enough to encamp on; but at length, about two miles above +a small island in the middle of the river, we met with a place on +the left side, where we procured plenty of light wood and pitch pine. +This extraordinary range of rocks we called the Gates of the Rocky Mountains." + +Some of Captain Clark's men, engaged in hunting, gave the alarm +to roving bands of Shoshonee Indians, hunting in that vicinity. +The noise of their guns attracted the attention of the Indians, +who, having set fire to the grass as a warning to their comrades, +fled to the mountains. The whole country soon appeared to have +taken fright, and great clouds of smoke were observed in all directions. +Falling into an old Indian trail, Captain Clark waited, with his weary +and footsore men, for the rest of the party to come up with them. + +The explorers had now passed south, between the Big Belt range of mountains +on the cast and the main chain of the Rocky Mountains on the west. +Meagher County, Montana, now lies on the cast of their trail, and on the west +side of that route is the county of Lewis and Clark. They were now-- +still travelling southward--approaching the ultimate sources of the +great Missouri. The journal says:-- + +"We are delighted to find that the Indian woman recognizes the country; +she tells us that to this creek her countrymen make excursions +to procure white paint on its banks, and we therefore call it +Whiteearth Creek. She says also that the Three Forks of the Missouri +are at no great distance--a piece of intelligence which has cheered +the spirits of us all, as we hope soon to reach the head of that river. +This is the warmest day, except one, we have experienced this summer. +In the shade the mercury stood at eighty degrees, which is +the second time it has reached that height during this season. +We camped on an island, after making nineteen and three quarters miles. + +"In the course of the day we saw many geese, cranes, small birds +common to the plains, and a few pheasants. We also observed +a small plover or curlew of a brown color, about the size of a +yellow-legged plover or jack-curlew, but of a different species. +It first appeared near the mouth of Smith's River, +but is so shy and vigilant that we were unable to shoot it. +Both the broad and narrow-leaved willow continue, though the sweet +willow has become very scarce. The rosebush, small honeysuckle, +pulpy-leaved thorn, southernwood, sage, box-elder, narrow-leaved +cottonwood, redwood, and a species of sumach, are all abundant. +So, too, are the red and black gooseberries, service-berry, +choke-cherry, and the black, yellow, red, and purple currants, +which last seems to be a favorite food of the bear. +Before camping we landed and took on board Captain Clark, +with the meat he had collected during this day's hunt, +which consisted of one deer and an elk; we had, ourselves, shot a +deer and an antelope." + +The party found quantities of wild onions of good flavor and size. +They also observed wild flax, garlic, and other vegetable products of value. +The journal adds:-- + +"We saw many otter and beaver to-day [July 24th]. The latter seem +to contribute very much to the number of islands, and the widening +of the river. They begin by damming up the small channels of about +twenty yards between the islands: this obliges the river to seek +another outlet, and, as soon as this is effected, the channel stopped +by the beaver becomes filled with mud and sand. The industrious animal +is then driven to another channel, which soon shares the same fate, +till the river spreads on all sides, and cuts the projecting points +of the land into islands. We killed a deer, and saw great numbers +of antelopes, cranes, some geese, and a few red-headed ducks. +The small birds of the plains and the curlew are still abundant: +we saw a large bear, but could not come within gunshot of him. +There are numerous tracks of the elk, but none of the animals themselves; +and, from the appearance of bones and old excrement, we suppose that +buffalo sometimes stray into the valley, though we have as yet seen no +recent sign of them. Along the water are a number of snakes, some of a +uniform brown color, others black, and a third speckled on the abdomen, +and striped with black and a brownish yellow on the back and sides. +The first, which is the largest, is about four feet long; the second +is of the kind mentioned yesterday; and the third resembles in size +and appearance the garter-snake of the United States. On examining +the teeth of all these several kinds, we found them free from poison: +they are fond of the water, in which they take shelter on being pursued. +The mosquitoes, gnats, and prickly pear, our three persecutors, +still continue with us, and, joined with the labor of working the canoes, +have fatigued us all excessively." + +On Thursday, July 25, Captain Clark, who was in the lead, as usual, +arrived at the famous Three Forks of the Missouri. The stream +flowing in a generally northeastern direction was the true, +or principal Missouri, and was named the Jefferson. The middle +branch was named the Madison, in honor of James Madison, +then Secretary of State, and the fork next to the eastward received +the name of Albert Gallatin, then Secretary of the Treasury; +and by these titles the streams are known to this day. +The explorers had now passed down to their furthest southern limit, +their trail being to the eastward of the modern cities +of Helena and Butte, and separated only by a narrow divide +(then unknown to them) from the sources of some of the streams +that fall into the Pacific Ocean. Under the date of July 27, +the journal says:-- + +"We are now very anxious to see the Snake Indians. After advancing +for several hundred miles into this wild and mountainous country, +we may soon expect that the game will abandon us. With no information +of the route, we may be unable to find a passage across the mountains +when we reach the head of the river--at least, such a pass as will lead +us to the Columbia. Even are we so fortunate as to find a branch +of that river, the timber which we have hitherto seen in these mountains +does not promise us any fit to make canoes, so that our chief +dependence is on meeting some tribe from whom we may procure horses. +Our consolation is that this southwest branch can scarcely head with +any other river than the Columbia; and that if any nation of Indians +can live in the mountains we are able to endure as much as they can, +and have even better means of procuring subsistence." + + + +Chapter XII + +At the Sources of the Missouri + +The explorers were now (in the last days of July, 1805) at the head +of the principal sources of the great Missouri River, in the fastnesses +of the Rocky Mountains, at the base of the narrow divide that separates +Idaho from Montana in its southern corner. Just across this divide +are the springs that feed streams falling into the majestic Columbia +and then to the Pacific Ocean. As has been already set forth, they named +the Three Forks for President Jefferson and members of his cabinet. +These names still survive, although Jefferson River is the true Missouri +and not a fork of that stream. Upon the forks of the Jefferson Lewis +bestowed the titles of Philosophy, Wisdom, and Philanthropy, +each of these gifts and graces being, in his opinion, "an attribute +of that illustrious personage, Thomas Jefferson," then President of the +United States. But alas for the fleeting greatness of geographical honor! +Philosophy River is now known as Willow Creek, and at its mouth, a busy little +railroad town, is Willow City. The northwest fork is no longer Wisdom, +but Big Hole River; deep valleys among the mountains are known as holes; +and the stream called by that name, once Wisdom, is followed along +its crooked course by a railroad that connects Dillon, Silver Bow, +and Butte City, Montana. Vulgarity does its worst for Philanthropy; +its modern name on the map is Stinking Water. + +On the thirtieth of July, the party, having camped long enough to unpack +and dry their goods, dress their deerskins and make them into leggings +and moccasins, reloaded their canoes and began the toilsome ascent +of the Jefferson. The journal makes this record:-- + +"Sacajawea, our Indian woman, informs us that we are encamped +on the precise spot where her countrymen, the Snake Indians, +had their huts five years ago, when the Minnetarees of Knife River +first came in sight of them, and from whom they hastily retreated +three miles up the Jefferson, and concealed themselves in the woods. +The Minnetarees, however, pursued and attacked them, killed four men, +as many women, and a number of boys; and made prisoners of four +other boys and all the females, of whom Sacajawea was one. +She does not, however, show any distress at these recollections, +nor any joy at the prospect of being restored to her country; +for she seems to possess the folly, or the philosophy, of not +suffering her feelings to extend beyond the anxiety of having +plenty to eat and a few trinkets to wear. + +"This morning the hunters brought in some fat deer of the long-tailed +red kind, which are quite as large as those of the United States, +and are, indeed, the only kind we have found at this place. +There are numbers of the sand-hill cranes feeding in the meadows: +we caught a young one of the same color as the red deer, which, +though it had nearly attained its full growth, could not fly; +it is very fierce, and strikes a severe blow with its beak. . . . + +"Captain Lewis proceeded after dinner through an extensive low +ground of timber and meadow-land intermixed; but the bayous +were so obstructed by beaver-dams that, in order to avoid them, +he directed his course toward the high plain on the right. +This he gained with some difficulty, after wading up to his waist +through the mud and water of a number of beaver-dams. When +he desired to rejoin the canoes he found the underbrush so thick, +and the river so crooked, that this, joined to the difficulty +of passing the beaver-dams, induced him to go on and endeavor +to intercept the river at some point where it might be more +collected into one channel, and approach nearer the high plain. +He arrived at the bank about sunset, having gone only six miles +in a direct course from the canoes; but he saw no traces of the men, +nor did he receive any answer to his shouts and the firing of his gun. +It was now nearly dark; a duck lighted near him, and he shot it. +He then went on the head of a small island, where he found +some driftwood, which enabled him to cook his duck for supper, +and laid down to sleep on some willow-brush. The night was cool, +but the driftwood gave him a good fire, and he suffered no inconvenience, +except from the mosquitoes." + +The easy indifference to discomfort with which these well-seasoned +pioneers took their hardships must needs impress the reader. +It was a common thing for men, or for a solitary man, +to be caught out of camp by nightfall and compelled to bivouac, +like Captain Lewis, in the underbrush, or the prairie-grass. As +they pressed on, game began to fail them. Under date of July 31, +they remark that the only game seen that day was one bighorn, +a few antelopes, deer, and a brown bear, all of which escaped them. +"Nothing was killed to-day," it is recorded, "nor have we +had any fresh meat except one beaver for the last two days; +so that we are now reduced to an unusual situation, +for we have hitherto always had a great abundance of flesh." +Indeed, one reason for this is found in Captain Lewis's remark: +"When we have plenty of fresh meat, I find it impossible to make +the men take any care of it, or use it with the least frugality, +though I expect that necessity will shortly teach them this art." +We shall see, later on, that the men, who were really as improvident +of food as the Indians, had hard lessons from necessity. + +Anxious to reach the Indians, who were believed to be somewhere ahead of them, +Captain Lewis and three men went on up the Jefferson, Captain Clark and his +party following with the canoes and luggage in a more leisurely manner. +The advance party were so fortunate as to overtake a herd of elk, +two of which they killed; what they did not eat they left secured +for the other party with the canoes. Clark's men also had good luck +in hunting, for they killed five deer and one bighorn. Neither party +found fresh tracks of Indians, and they were greatly discouraged thereat. +The journal speaks of a beautiful valley, from six to eight miles wide, +where they saw ancient traces of buffalo occupation, but no buffalo. +These animals had now completely disappeared; they were seldom seen +in those mountains. The journal says of Lewis:-- + +"He saw an abundance of deer and antelope, and many tracks of elk and bear. +Having killed two deer, they feasted sumptuously, with a dessert of +currants of different colors--two species red, others yellow, deep purple, +and black; to these were added black gooseberries and deep purple +service-berries, somewhat larger than ours, from which they differ also +in color, size, and the superior excellence of their flavor. In the low +grounds of the river were many beaver-dams formed of willow-brush, mud, +and gravel, so closely interwoven that they resist the water perfectly; +some of them were five feet high, and caused the river to overflow several +acres of land." + +Meanwhile, the party with the canoes were having a fatiguing time +as they toiled up the river. On the fourth of August, after they +had made only fifteen miles, the journal has this entry:-- + +"The river is still rapid, and the water, though clear, is very much +obstructed by shoals or ripples at every two hundred or three hundred yards. +At all these places we are obliged to drag the canoes over the stones, +as there is not a sufficient depth of water to float them, and in +the other parts the current obliges us to have recourse to the cord. +But as the brushwood on the banks will not permit us to walk on shore, +we are under the necessity of wading through the river as we drag the boats. +This soon makes our feet tender, and sometimes occasions severe falls +over the slippery stones; and the men, by being constantly wet, +are becoming more feeble. In the course of the day the hunters killed +two deer, some geese and ducks, and the party saw some antelopes, +cranes, beaver, and otter." + +Captain Lewis had left a note for Captain Clark at the forks +of the Jefferson and Wisdom rivers. Clark's journal says:-- + +"We arrived at the forks about four o'clock, but, unluckily, Captain Lewis's +note had been attached to a green pole, which the beaver had cut down, +and carried off with the note on it: an accident which deprived us +of all information as to the character of the two branches of the river. +Observing, therefore, that the northwest fork was most in our direction, +we ascended it. We found it extremely rapid, and its waters were +scattered in such a manner that for a quarter of a mile we were forced +to cut a passage through the willow-brush that leaned over the little +channels and united at the top. After going up it for a mile, we encamped +on an island which had been overflowed, and was still so wet that we +were compelled to make beds of brush to keep ourselves out of the mud. +Our provision consisted of two deer which had been killed in the morning." + +It should be borne in mind that this river, up which the party +were making their way, was the Wisdom (now Big Hole), and was +the northwest fork of the Jefferson, flowing from southeast +to northwest; and near the point where it enters the Jefferson, +it has a loop toward the northeast; that is to say, it comes +from the southwest to a person looking up its mouth. + + +After going up the Wisdom River, Clark's party were overtaken +by Drewyer, Lewis's hunter, who had been sent across between +the forks to notify Clark that Lewis regarded the other fork-- +the main Jefferson--as the right course to take. The party, +accordingly, turned about and began to descend the stream, +in order to ascend the Jefferson. The journal says:-- + +"On going down, one of the canoes upset and two others filled +with water, by which all the baggage was wet and several articles were +irrecoverably lost. As one of them swung round in a rapid current, +Whitehouse was thrown out of her; while down, the canoe passed over him, +and had the water been two inches shallower would have crushed +him to pieces; but he escaped with a severe bruise of his leg. +In order to repair these misfortunes we hastened [down] to the forks, +where we were joined by Captain Lewis. We then passed over to the left +[east] side, opposite the entrance of the rapid fork, and camped +on a large gravelly bar, near which there was plenty of wood. +Here we opened, and exposed to dry, all the articles which had +suffered from the water; none of them were completely spoiled except +a small keg of powder; the rest of the powder, which was distributed +in the different canoes, was quite safe, although it had been under +the water for upward of an hour. The air is indeed so pure and dry +that any wood-work immediately shrinks, unless it is kept filled +with water; but we had placed our powder in small canisters of lead, +each containing powder enough for the canister when melted into bullets, +and secured with cork and wax, which answered our purpose perfectly. +. . . . . . . . + +In the evening we killed three deer and four elk, which furnished +us once more with a plentiful supply of meat. Shannon, the same +man who had been lost for fifteen days [August 28 to Sept. 11, +1804], was sent out this morning to hunt, up the northwest fork. +When we decided on returning, Drewyer was directed to go in quest of him, +but be returned with information that he had gone several miles up +the [Wisdom] river without being able to find Shannon. We now had +the trumpet sounded, and fired several guns; but he did not return, +and we fear he is again lost." + +This man, although an expert hunter, had an unlucky habit +of losing himself in the wilderness, as many another good man +has lost himself among the mountains or the great plains. +This time, however, he came into camp again, after being +lost three days. + +On the eighth of August the party reached a point now known +by its famous landmark, Beaver Head, a remarkable rocky formation +which gives its name to Beaverhead County, Montana. The Indian +woman, Sacajawea, recognized the so-called beaver-head, which, +she said, was not far from the summer retreat of her countrymen, +living on the other side of the mountains. The whole party +were now together again, the men with the canoes having come up; +and the journal says:-- + +"Persuaded of the absolute necessity of procuring horses to cross +the mountains, it was determined that one of us should proceed +in the morning to the head of the river, and penetrate the mountains +till he found the Shoshonees or some other nation who can assist +us in transporting our baggage, the greater part of which we shall +be compelled to leave without the aid of horses.". . . + +Early the next day Captain Lewis took Drewyer, Shields, and M'Neal, and, +slinging their knapsacks, they set out with a resolution to meet some nation +of Indians before they returned, however long they might be separated +from the party. + +The party in the canoes continued to ascend the river, +which was so crooked that they advanced but four miles in a direct +line from their starting-place in a distance of eleven miles. +In this manner, the party on foot leading those with the canoes, +they repeatedly explored the various forks of the streams, +which baffled them by their turnings and windings. Lewis was +in the advance, and Clark brought up the rear with the main body. +It was found necessary for the leading party to wade the streams, +and occasionally they were compelled by the roughness +of the way to leave the water-course and take to the hills, +where great vigilance was required to keep them in sight +of the general direction in which they must travel. +On the 11th of August, 1805, Captain Lewis came in sight of the first +Indian encountered since leaving the country of the Minnetarees, +far back on the Missouri. The journal of that date says: + +"On examining him with the glass Captain Lewis saw that he was +of a different nation from any Indians we had hitherto met. +He was armed with a bow and a quiver of arrows, and mounted +on an elegant horse without a saddle; a small string attached +to the under jaw answered as a bridle. + +"Convinced that he was a Shoshonee, and knowing how much +our success depended on the friendly offices of that nation, +Captain Lewis was full of anxiety to approach without alarming him, +and endeavor to convince him that he [Lewis] was a white man. +He therefore proceeded toward the Indian at his usual pace. +When they were within a mile of each other the Indian suddenly stopped. +Captain Lewis immediately followed his example, took his +blanket from his knapsack, and, holding it with both hands +at the two corners, threw it above his head, and unfolded it +as he brought it to the ground, as if in the act of spreading it. +This signal, which originates in the practice of spreading +a robe or skin as a seat for guests to whom they wish to show +a distinguished kindness, is the universal sign of friendship among +the Indians on the Missouri and the Rocky Mountains. As usual, +Captain Lewis repeated this signal three times: still the Indian +kept his position, and looked with an air of suspicion on +Drewyer and Shields, who were now advancing on each side. +Captain Lewis was afraid to make any signal for them to halt, +lest he should increase the distrust of the Indian, who began +to be uneasy, and they were too distant to hear his voice. +He therefore took from his pack some beads, a looking-glass, +and a few trinkets, which he bad brought for the purpose, and, +leaving his gun, advanced unarmed towards the Indian. He remained +in the same position till Captain Lewis came within two hundred yards +of him, when he turned his horse and began to move off slowly. +Captain Lewis then called out to him in as loud a voice as he could, +repeating the words tabba bone, which in the Shoshonee language +mean white man. But, looking over his shoulder, the Indian +kept his eyes on Drewyer and Shields, who were still advancing, +without recollecting the impropriety of doing so at such +a moment, till Captain Lewis made a signal to them to halt: +this Drewyer obeyed, but Shields did not observe it, and still +went forward. Seeing Drewyer halt, the Indian turned his horse +about as if to wait for Captain Lewis, who now reached within +one hundred and fifty paces, repeating the words tabba bone, +and holding up the trinkets in his hand, at the same time stripping +up the sleeve of his shirt to show the color of his skin. +The Indian suffered him to advance within one hundred paces, +then suddenly turned his horse, and, giving him the whip, leaped across +the creek, and disappeared in an instant among the willow bushes: +with him vanished all the hopes which the sight of him had inspired, +of a friendly introduction to his countrymen." + +Sadly disappointed by the clumsy imprudence of his men, Captain Lewis +now endeavored to follow the track of the retreating Indian, +hoping that this might lead them to an encampment, or village, +of the Shoshonees. He also built a fire, the smoke of which +might attract the attention of the Indians. At the same time, +be placed on a pole near the fire a small assortment +of beads, trinkets, awls, and paints, in order that the Indians, +if they returned that way, might discover them and be +thereby assured the strangers were white men and friends. +Next morning, while trying to follow the trail of the lone Indian, +they found traces of freshly turned earth where people had been +digging for roots; and, later on, they came upon the fresh +track of eight or ten horses. But these were soon scattered, +and the explorers only found that the general direction of +the trails was up into the mountains which define the boundary +between Montana and Idaho. Skirting the base of these mountains +(the Bitter Root), the party endeavored to find a plain trail, +or Indian road, leading up to a practicable pass. +Travelling in a southwesterly direction along the main stream, +they entered a valley which led into the mountains. +Here they ate their last bit of fresh meat, the remainder of a deer +they had killed a day or two before; they reserved for their +final resort, in case of famine, a small piece of salt pork. +The journal says:-- + +"They then continued through the low bottom, along the +main stream, near the foot of the mountains on their right. +For the first five miles, the valley continues toward the southwest, +being from two to three miles in width; then the main stream, +which had received two small branches from the left in the valley, +turned abruptly to the west through a narrow bottom between the mountains. +The road was still plain, and, as it led them directly on toward +the mountain, the stream gradually became smaller, till, after going +two miles, it had so greatly diminished in width that one of the men, +in a fit of enthusiasm, with one foot on each side of the river, +thanked God that he had lived to bestride the Missouri. As they +went along their hopes of soon seeing the Columbia [that is, +the Pacific watershed] arose almost to painful anxiety, when after four +miles from the last abrupt turn of the river [which turn had been +to the west], they reached a small gap formed by the high mountains, +which recede on each side, leaving room for the Indian road. +From the foot of one of the lowest of these mountains, which rises +with a gentle ascent of about half a mile, issues the remotest +water of the Missouri. + +"They had now reached the hidden sources of that river, which had never yet +been seen by civilized man. As they quenched their thirst at the chaste +and icy fountain--as they sat down by the brink of that little rivulet, +which yielded its distant and modest tribute to the parent ocean--they felt +themselves rewarded for all their labors and all their difficulties. + +"They left reluctantly this interesting spot, and, pursuing the Indian +road through the interval of the hills, arrived at the top of a ridge, +from which they saw high mountains, partially covered with snow, +still to the west of them. + +"The ridge on which they stood formed the dividing line between +the waters of the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. They followed +a descent much steeper than that on the eastern side, and at +the distance of three-quarters of a mile reached a handsome, +bold creek of cold, clear water running to the westward. +They stopped to taste, for the first time, the waters of the Columbia; +and, after a few minutes, followed the road across steep hills and +low hollows, when they came to a spring on the side of a mountain. +Here they found a sufficient quantity of dry willow-brush for fuel, +and therefore halted for the night; and, having killed nothing +in the course of the day, supped on their last piece of pork, +and trusted to fortune for some other food to mix with a little +flour and parched meal, which was all that now remained +of their provisions." + + + +Chapter XIII + +From the Minnetarees to the Shoshonees + +Travelling in a westerly direction, with a very gradual descent, +Captain Lewis, on the thirteenth of August, came upon two Indian women, +a man, and some dogs. The Indians sat down when the strangers first +came in sight, as if to wait for their coming; but, soon taking alarm, +they all fled, much to the chagrin of the white men. Now striking into +a well-worn Indian road, they found themselves surely near a village. +The journal says:-- + +"They had not gone along the road more than a mile, when on a sudden they +saw three female Indians, from whom they had been concealed by the deep +ravines which intersected the road, till they were now within thirty paces +of each other. One of them, a young woman, immediately took to flight; +the other two, an elderly woman and a little girl, seeing they were too +near for them to escape, sat on the ground, and holding down their heads +seemed as if reconciled to the death which they supposed awaited them. +The same habit of holding down the head and inviting the enemy to strike, +when all chance of escape is gone, is preserved in Egypt to this day. + +"Captain Lewis instantly put down his rifle, and advancing +toward them, took the woman by the hand, raised her up, +and repeated the words `tabba bone!' at the same time +stripping up his shirt-sleeve to prove that he was a white man-- +for his hands and face had become by constant exposure quite as dark +as their own. She appeared immediately relieved from her alarm; +and Drewyer and Shields now coming up, Captain Lewis gave them +some beads, a few awls, pewter mirrors, and a little paint, +and told Drewyer to request the woman to recall her companion, +who had escaped to some distance and, by alarming the Indians, +might cause them to attack him without any time for explanation. +She did as she was desired, and the young woman returned almost +out of breath. Captain Lewis gave her an equal portion of trinkets, +and painted the tawny checks of all three of them with vermilion,-- +a ceremony which among the Shoshonees is emblematic of peace. + +"After they had become composed, he informed them by signs +of his wishes to go to their camp, in order to see their chiefs +and warriors; they readily obeyed, and conducted the party +along the same road down the river. In this way they marched +two miles, when they met a troop of nearly sixty warriors, +mounted on excellent horses, riding at full speed toward them. +As they advanced Captain Lewis put down his gun, and went with +the flag about fifty paces in advance. The chief, who with two +men was riding in front of the main body, spoke to the women, +who now explained that the party was composed of white men, +and showed exultingly the presents they had received. +The three men immediately leaped from their horses, came up +to Captain Lewis, and embraced him with great cordiality, +putting their left arm over his right shoulder, and clasping +his back, applying at the same time their left cheek to his, +and frequently vociferating ah hi e! ah hi e! `I am +much pleased, I am much rejoiced.' The whole body of warriors +now came forward, and our men received the caresses, and no +small share of the grease and paint, of their new friends. +After this fraternal embrace, of which the motive was much +more agreeable than the manner, Captain Lewis lighted a pipe, +and offered it to the Indians, who had now seated themselves +in a circle around the party. But, before they would receive +this mark of friendship, they pulled off their moccasins: +a custom, as we afterward learned, which indicates the sacred +sincerity of their professions when they smoke with a stranger, +and which imprecates on themselves the misery of going +barefoot forever if they prove faithless to their words-- +a penalty by no means light for those who rove over the thorny +plains of this country. . . . + +"After smoking a few pipes, some trifling presents were +distributed among them, with which they seemed very much pleased, +particularly with the blue beads and the vermilion. +Captain Lewis then stated to the chief that the object +of his visit was friendly, and should be explained as soon +as he reached their camp; and that, as the sun was oppressive, +and no water near, he wished to go there as soon as possible. +They now put on their moccasins, and their chief, whose name +was Cameahwait, made a short speech to the warriors. +Captain Lewis then gave him the flag, which he informed him +was among white men the emblem of peace; and, now that he had +received it, was to be in future the bond of union between them. +The chief then moved on; our party followed him; and the rest +of the warriors, in a squadron, brought up the rear." + +Arriving at the village, the ceremony of smoking the pipe of peace +was solemnly observed; and the women and children of the tribe were +permitted to gaze with wonder on the first white men they had ever seen. +The Indians were not much better provided with food than were their +half-famished visitors. But some cakes made of service-berries and +choke-berries dried in the sun were presented to the white men "on which," +says Captain Lewis, "we made a hearty meal." Later in the day, however, +an Indian invited Captain Lewis into his wigwam and treated him to a +small morsel of boiled antelope and a piece of fresh salmon roasted. +This was the first salmon he had seen, and the captain was now assured +that he was on the headwaters of the Columbia. This stream was what is now +known as the Lemhi River. The water was clear and limpid, flowing down +a bed of gravel; its general direction was a little north of west. +The journal says:-- + +"The chief informed him that this stream discharged, at the distance +of half a day's march, into another [Salmon River] of twice its size, +coming from the southwest; but added, on further inquiry, that there +was scarcely more timber below the junction of those rivers than in +this neighborhood, and that the river was rocky, rapid, and so closely +confined between high mountains that it was impossible to pass down it +either by land or water to the great lake [Pacific Ocean], where, +as he had understood, the white men lived. + +"This information was far from being satisfactory, for there was +no timber here that would answer the purpose of building canoes,-- +indeed not more than just sufficient for fuel; and even that consisted +of the narrow-leaved cottonwood, the red and the narrow-leaved willow, +chokecherry, service-berry, and a few currant bushes, such as are common +on the Missouri. The prospect of going on by land is more pleasant, +for there are great numbers of horses feeding in every direction round +the camp, which will enable us to transport our stores, if necessary, +over the mountains." + +While Captain Lewis was thus engaged, his companions in the canoes were +slowly and laboriously ascending the river on the other side of the divide. +The character of the stream was much as it had been for several days, +and the men were in the water three-fourths of the time, dragging the boats +over the shoals. They had but little success in killing game, but caught, +as they had done for some days before, numbers of fine trout. + +"August 14. In order to give time for the boats to reach +the forks of Jefferson River," proceeds the narrative, +"Captain Lewis determined to remain where he was, and obtain +all the information he could collect in regard to the country. +Having nothing to eat but a little flour and parched meal, +with the berries of the Indians, he sent out Drewyer and Shields, +who borrowed horses from the natives, to hunt for a few hours. +About the same time the young warriors set out for the same purpose. +There are but few elk or black tailed deer in this neighborhood; +and as the common red deer secrete themselves in the bushes +when alarmed, they are soon safe from the arrows, which are but feeble +weapons against any animals which the huntsmen cannot previously +run down with their horses. The chief game of the Shoshonees, +therefore, is the antelope, which, when pursued, retreats to +the open plains, where the horses have full room for the chase. +But such is its extraordinary fleetness and wind, that a single +horse has no possible chance of outrunning it or tiring it down, +and the hunters are therefore obliged to resort to stratagem. + +"About twenty Indians, mounted on fine horses, and armed with bows and arrows, +left the camp. In a short time they descried a herd of ten antelope: +they immediately separated into little squads of two or three, and formed +a scattered circle round the herd for five or six miles, keeping at a +wary distance, so as not to alarm them till they were perfectly enclosed, +and selecting, as far as possible, some commanding eminence as a stand. +Having gained their positions, a small party rode towards the animals, +and with wonderful dexterity the huntsmen preserved their seats, +and the horses their footing, as they ran at full speed over the hills, +down the steep ravines, and along the borders of the precipices. +They were soon outstripped by the antelopes, which, on gaining the other +extremity of the circle, were driven back and pursued by the fresh hunters. +They turned and flew, rather than ran, in another direction; but there, too, +they found new enemies. In this way they were alternately pursued backward +and forward, till at length, notwithstanding the skill of the hunters, +they all escaped and the party, after running for two hours, returned without +having caught anything, and their horses foaming with sweat. This chase, +the greater part of which was seen from the camp, formed a beautiful scene; +but to the hunters it is exceedingly laborious, and so unproductive, +even when they are able to worry the animal down and shoot him, that forty +or fifty hunters will sometimes be engaged for half a day without obtaining +more than two or three antelope. + +"Soon after they returned, our two huntsmen came in with no better success. +Captain Lewis therefore made a little paste with the flour, +and the addition of some berries formed a very palatable repast. +Having now secured the good will of Cameahwait, Captain Lewis informed +him of his wish that he would speak to the warriors, and endeavor +to engage them to accompany him to the forks of Jefferson River; +where by this time another chief [Clark], with a large party +of white men, was awaiting his [Lewis'] return; that it would be +necessary to take about thirty horses to transport the merchandise; +that they should be well rewarded for their trouble; and that, +when all the party should have reached the Shoshonee camp, they would +remain some time among them to trade for horses, as well as concert plans +for furnishing them in future with regular supplies of merchandise. +He readily consented to do so, and after collecting the tribe together, +he made a long harangue. In about an hour and a half he returned, +and told Captain Lewis that they would be ready to accompany him +in the morning." + +But the Indians were suspicious and reluctant to take the word of +the white man. Captain Lewis, almost at his wits' end, appealed to +their courage. He said that if they were afraid of being led into a trap, +he was sure that some among them were not afraid. + +"To doubt the courage of an Indian is to touch the tenderest string of +his mind, and the surest way to rouse him to any dangerous achievement. +Cameahwait instantly replied that he was not afraid to die, +and mounting his horse, for the third time harangued the warriors. +He told them that he was resolved to go if he went alone, +or if he were sure of perishing; that he hoped there were +among those who heard him some who were not afraid to die, +and who would prove it by mounting their horses and following him. +This harangue produced an effect on six or eight only of the warriors, +who now joined their chief. With these Captain Lewis smoked a pipe; +and then, fearful of some change in their capricious temper, +set out immediately." + +The party now retraced the steps so lately taken by Captain Lewis +and his men. On the second day out, one of the spies sent forward by +the Indians came madly galloping back, much to the alarm of the white men. +It proved, however, that the spy had returned to tell his comrades +that one of the white hunters [Drewyer] had killed a deer. An Indian +riding behind Captain Lewis, fearful that he should not get his share +of the spoil, jumped off the horse and ran for a mile at full speed. +The journal says:-- + +"Captain Lewis slackened his pace, and followed at a sufficient +distance to observe them. When they reached the place where +Drewyer had thrown out the intestines, they all dismounted in +confusion and ran tumbling over each other like famished dogs. +Each tore away whatever part he could, and instantly began to eat it. +Some had the liver, some the kidneys--in short, no part on +which we are accustomed to look with disgust escaped them. +One of them, who had seized about nine feet of the entrails, +was chewing at one end, while with his hand he was diligently +clearing his way by discharging the contents at the other. +It was indeed impossible to see these wretches ravenously feeding +on the filth of animals, the blood streaming from their mouths, +without deploring how nearly the condition of savages approaches +that of the brute creation. Yet, though suffering with hunger, +they did not attempt, as they might have done, to take by force +the whole deer, but contented themselves with what had been thrown +away by the hunter. Captain Lewis now had the deer skinned, +and after reserving a quarter of it gave the rest of the animal +to the chief, to be divided among the Indians, who immediately +devoured nearly the whole of it without cooking. They now went +toward the [Prairie] creek, where there was some brushwood +to make a fire, and found Drewyer, who had killed a second deer. +The same struggle for the entrails was renewed here, and on giving +nearly the whole deer to the Indians, they devoured it even +to the soft part of the hoofs. A fire being made, Captain Lewis +had his breakfast, during which Drewyer brought in a third deer. +This too, after reserving one-quarter, was given to the Indians, +who now seemed completely satisfied and in good humor." + +They now approached the forks of the Jefferson, where they +had expected to meet Clark and his party with the canoes. +Not seeing any signs of them, the Lewis party were placed in a +critical position. The Indians were again alarmed and suspicious. +Here Captain Clark's journal says:-- + +"As they went on towards the point, Captain Lewis, perceiving how +critical his situation had become, resolved to attempt a stratagem, +which his present difficulty seemed completely to justify. +Recollecting the notes he had left at the point for us, he sent Drewyer +for them with an Indian, who witnessed his taking them from the pole. +When they were brought, Captain Lewis told Cameahwait that, on leaving +his brother chief at the place where the river issues from the mountains, +it was agreed that the boats should not be brought higher than the next +forks we should meet; but that, if the rapid water prevented the boats +from coming on as fast as they expected, his brother chief was to send +a note to the first forks above him, to let him know where they were: +that this note had been left this morning at the forks, and mentioned +that the canoes were just below the mountains, and coming up slowly +in consequence of the current. Captain Lewis added that he would stay +at the forks for his brother chief, but would send a man down the river; +and that if Cameahwait doubted what he said, one of their young men +could go with him, while he and the other two remained at the forks. +This story satisfied the chief and the greater part of the Indians; +but a few did not conceal their suspicions, observing that we told +different stories, and complaining that their chief exposed them to +danger by a mistaken confidence. Captain Lewis now wrote, by the light +of some willow-brush, a note to Captain Clark, which he gave to Drewyer, +with an order to use all possible expedition in descending the river, +and engaged an Indian to accompany him by the promise of a knife +and some beads. + +"At bedtime the chief and five others slept round the fire of Captain Lewis, +and the rest hid themselves in different parts of the willow-brush +to avoid the enemy, who, they feared, would attack them in the night. +Captain Lewis endeavored to assume a cheerfulness he did not feel, +to prevent the despondency of the savages. After conversing gayly +with them he retired to his mosquito-bier, by the side of which the chief +now placed himself. He lay down, yet slept but little, being in fact +scarcely less uneasy than his Indian companions. He was apprehensive that, +finding the ascent of the river impracticable, Captain Clark might have +stopped below Rattlesnake bluff, and the messenger would not meet him. +The consequence of disappointing the Indians at this moment would most +probably be that they would retire and secrete themselves in the mountains, +so as to prevent our having an opportunity of recovering their confidence. +They would also spread a panic through all the neighboring Indians, +and cut us off from the supply of horses so useful and almost so essential +to our success. He was at the same time consoled by remembering that his +hopes of assistance rested on better foundations than their generosity-- +their avarice and their curiosity. He had promised liberal exchanges +for their horses; but what was still more seductive, he had told them +that one of their countrywomen, who had been taken with the Minnetarees, +accompanied the party below; and one of the men had spread the report of our +having with us a man [York] perfectly black, whose hair was short and curled. +This last account had excited a great degree of curiosity, and they seemed +more desirous of seeing this monster than of obtaining the most favorable +barter for their horses." + +On the following day, August 17, the two parties of explorers finally met. +Under that date the journal has this interesting entry:-- + +"Captain Lewis rose very early and despatched Drewyer +and the Indian down the river in quest of the boats. +Shields was sent out at the same time to hunt, while M'Neal +prepared a breakfast out of the remainder of the meat. +Drewyer had been gone about two hours, and the Indians +were all anxiously waiting for some news, when an Indian, +who had straggled a short distance down the river, +returned with a report that he had seen the white men, +who were only a short distance below, and were coming on. +The Indians were transported with joy, and the chief, in the warmth +of his satisfaction, renewed his embrace to Captain Lewis, +who was quite as much delighted as the Indians themselves. +The report proved most agreeably true. + +"On setting out at seven o'clock, Captain Clark, with Chaboneau +and his wife, walked on shore; but they had not gone more than a mile +before Captain Clark saw Sacajawea, who was with her husband one +hundred yards ahead, begin to dance and show every mark of the most +extravagant joy, turning round to him and pointing to several Indians, +whom he now saw advancing on horseback, sucking her fingers at +the same time, to indicate that they were of her native tribe. +As they advanced, Captain Clark discovered among them Drewyer dressed +like an Indian, from whom be learned the situation of the party. +While the boats were performing the circuit, he went toward the forks +with the Indians, who, as they went along, sang aloud with the greatest +appearance of delight. + +"We soon drew near the camp, and just as we approached it +a woman made her way through the crowd toward Sacajawea; +recognizing each other, they embraced with the most tender affection. +The meeting of these two young women had in it something peculiarly +touching, not only from the ardent manner in which their feelings +were expressed, but also from the real interest of their situation. +They had been companions in childhood; in the war with the +Minnetarees they had both been taken prisoners in the same battle; +they had shared and softened the rigors of their captivity till +one of them had escaped from their enemies with scarce a hope +of ever seeing her friend rescued from their hands. + +"While Sacajawea was renewing among the women the friendships +of former days, Captain Clark went on, and was received +by Captain Lewis and the chief, who, after the first embraces +and salutations were over, conducted him to a sort of circular +tent or shade of willows. Here he was seated on a white robe; +and the chief immediately tied in his hair six small shells +resembling pearls, an ornament highly valued by these people, +who procure them in the course of trade from the seacoast. +The moccasins of the whole party were then taken off, and, +after much ceremony, the smoking began. After this the conference +was to be opened; and, glad of an opportunity of being able +to converse more intelligibly, Sacajawea was sent for: +she came into the tent, sat down, and was beginning to interpret, +when in the person of Cameahwait she recognized her brother. +She instantly jumped up, and ran and embraced him, +throwing over him her blanket, and weeping profusely: +the chief was himself moved, though not in the same degree. +After some conversation between them she resumed her seat, +and attempted to interpret for us; but her new situation seemed +to overpower her, and she was frequently interrupted by her tears. +After the council was finished, the unfortunate woman learned +that all her family were dead except two brothers, one of whom +was absent, and a son of her eldest sister, a small boy, +who was immediately adopted by her." + +The two parties, Indian and white, now went into a conference, +the white chiefs explaining that it would be needful for their Indian +friends to collect all their horses and help to transport the goods +of the explorers over the Great Divide. The journal says:-- + +"The speech made a favorable impression. The chief, in reply, +thanked us for our expressions of friendship toward himself and his nation, +and declared their willingness to render us every service. He lamented +that it would be so long before they should be supplied with firearms, +but that till then they could subsist as they had heretofore done. +He concluded by saying that there were not horses enough here +to transport our goods, but that he would return to the village +to-morrow, bring all his own horses, and encourage his people to come +over with theirs. The conference being ended to our satisfaction, +we now inquired of Cameahwait what chiefs were among the party, +and he pointed out two of them. We then distributed our presents: +to Cameahwait we gave a medal of small size, with the likeness +of President Jefferson, and on the reverse a figure of hands clasped +with a pipe and tomahawk; to this was added an uniform coat, +a shirt, a pair of scarlet leggings, a carrot [or twist] of tobacco, +and some small articles. Each of the other chiefs received +a small medal struck during the presidency of General Washington, +a shirt, handkerchief, leggings, knife, and some tobacco. +Medals of the same sort were also presented to two young warriors, +who, though not chiefs, were promising youths and very much respected +in the tribe. These honorary gifts were followed by presents +of paint, moccasins, awls, knives, beads, and looking-glasses. +We also gave them all a plentiful meal of Indian corn, of which +the hull is taken off by being boiled in lye; as this was the first +they had ever tasted, they were very much pleased with it. +They had, indeed, abundant sources of surprise in all they saw-- +the appearance of the men, their arms, their clothing, the canoes, +the strange looks of the negro, and the sagacity of our dog, +all in turn shared their admiration, which was raised to astonishment +by a shot from the air-gun. This operation was instantly considered +`great medicine,' by which they, as well as the other Indians, +mean something emanating directly from the Great Spirit, or produced +by his invisible and incomprehensible agency. . . . + +"After the council was over we consulted as to our future operations. +The game did not promise to last here for many days; and this circumstance +combined with many others to induce our going on as soon as possible. +Our Indian information as to the state of the Columbia was of a very alarming +kind; and our first object was, of course, to ascertain the practicability +of descending it, of which the Indians discouraged our expectations. +It was therefore agreed that Captain Clark should set off in the morning +with eleven men, furnished, besides their arms, with tools for making canoes: +that he should take Chaboneau and his wife to the camp of the Shoshonees, +where he was to leave them, in order to hasten the collection of horses; +that he should then lead his men down to the Columbia, and if be found +it navigable, and the timber in sufficient quantity, begin to build canoes. +As soon as he had decided as to the propriety of proceeding down the Columbia +or across the mountains, be was to send back one of the men with information +of it to Captain Lewis, who by that time would have brought up the whole +party, and the rest of the baggage, as far as the Shoshonee village. +Preparations were accordingly made at once to carry out the arrangement. +. . . . . . . . . + +"In order to relieve the men of Captain Clark's party +from the heavy weight of their arms, provisions, and tools, +we exposed a few articles to barter for horses, and soon +obtained three very good ones, in exchange for which we gave +a uniform coat, a pair of leggings, a few handkerchiefs, +three knives, and some other small articles, the whole of which +did not, in the United States, cost more than twenty dollars; +a fourth was purchased by the men for an old checkered shirt, +a pair of old leggings, and a knife. The Indians seemed to be +quite as well pleased as ourselves at the bargain they had made. +We now found that the two inferior chiefs were somewhat displeased +at not having received a present equal to that given to the +great chief, who appeared in a dress so much finer than their own. +To allay their discontent, we bestowed on them two old coats, +and promised them if they were active in assisting us across +the mountains they should have an additional present. +This treatment completely reconciled them, and the whole +Indian party, except two men and two women, set out in perfect +good humor to return to their home with Captain Clark." + + + +Chapter XIV + +Across the Great Divide + +Captain Clark had now left the water-shed of the Missouri behind him, +and was pressing on, over a broken, hilly country, to the lands +from which issue the tributaries of the Columbia. The Indian village +which Captain Lewis had previously visited had been removed two miles up +the stream on which it was situated, and was reached by Clark on August 20. +The party was very ceremoniously received by Chief Cameahwait, and all hands +began to explain to the white men the difficulties of the situation. +How to transport the canoes and baggage over the mountains to some +navigable stream leading into the Columbia was now the serious problem. +The Indian chief and his old men dwelt on the obstacles in the way +and argued that it was too late in the season to make the attempt. +They even urged the white men to stay with them until another spring, +when Indian guides would be furnished them to proceed on +their journey westward. + +On the twenty-first, Clark passed the junction of two streams, the Salmon +and the Lemhi, which is now the site of Salmon City, Idaho. As Captain Lewis +was the first white man who had seen these waters, Clark gave to the combined +water-course the name of Lewis' River. The mountains here assumed +a formidable aspect, and the stream was too narrow, rapid, and rock-bound +to admit of navigation. The journal says of Captain Clark:-- + +He soon began to perceive that the Indian accounts had not +been exaggerated. At the distance of a mile he passed a small creek +[on the right], and the points of four mountains, which were rocky, +and so high that it seemed almost impossible to cross them with horses. +The road lay over the sharp fragments of rocks which had fallen +from the mountains, and were strewed in heaps for miles together; +yet the horses, altogether unshod, travelled across them as fast +as the men, without detaining them a moment. They passed two +bold running streams, and reached the entrance of a small river, +where a few Indian families resided, who had not been previously +acquainted with the arrival of the whites; the guide was behind, +and the woods were so thick that we came upon them unobserved, +till at a very short distance. As soon as they saw us the women +and children fled in great consternation; the men offered us +everything they had--the fish on the scaffolds, the dried berries, +and the collars of elks' tushes worn by the children. +We took only a small quantity of the food, and gave them in return +some small articles which conduced very much to pacify them. +The guide now coming up, explained to them who we were and +the object of our visit, which seemed to relieve their fears; +still a number of the women and children did not recover from +their fright, but cried during our stay, which lasted about an hour. +The guide, whom we found a very intelligent, friendly old man, +informed us that up this river there was a road which led over +the mountains to the Missouri." + +To add to their difficulties, game had almost entirely disappeared, +and the abundant fish in the river could not be caught for lack +of proper fishing-tackle. Timber from which canoes could be made, +there was none, and the rapids in the rivers were sharp and violent. +With his Indian guide and three men, Captain Clark now pressed on his route +of survey, leaving the remainder of his men behind to hunt and fish. +He went down the Salmon River about fifty-two miles, making his way +as best he could along its banks. Finding the way absolutely blocked +for their purposes, Captain Clark returned on the twenty-fifth of August +and rejoined the party that he had left behind. These had not been able +to kill anything, and for a time starvation stared them in the face. +Under date of August 27, the journal says:-- + +"The men, who were engaged last night in mending their moccasins, +all except one, went out hunting, but no game was to be procured. +One of the men, however, killed a small salmon, and the Indians made +a present of another, on which the whole party made a very slight breakfast. +These Indians, to whom this life is familiar, seem contented, although they +depend for subsistence on the scanty productions of the fishery. +But our men, who are used to hardships, but have been accustomed to +have the first wants of nature regularly supplied, feel very sensibly +their wretched situation; their strength is wasting away; they begin +to express their apprehensions of being without food in a country +perfectly destitute of any means of supporting life, except a few fish. +In the course of the day an Indian brought into the camp five salmon, +two of which Captain Clark bought and made a supper for the party." + +Two days later, Captain Clark and his men joined the main party, having met +the only repulse that was suffered by the expedition from first to last. +Eluding the vigilance of the Indians, caches, or hiding-places, for +the baggage were constructed, filled, and concealed, the work being done +after dark. The weather was now very cold, although August had not passed. +Ink froze in the pen during the night, and the meadows were white with frost; +but the days were warm, even hot. + +In the absence of Captain Clark, his colleague and party had been visited +by Cameahwait and about fifty of his band, with their women and children. +Captain Lewis' journal says:-- + +"After they had camped near us and turned loose their horses, +we called a council of all the chiefs and warriors, +and addressed them in a speech. Additional presents were +then distributed, particularly to the two second chiefs, who had, +agreeably to their promises, exerted themselves in our favor. +The council was then adjourned, and all the Indians were +treated with an abundant meal of boiled Indian corn and beans. +The poor wretches, who had no animal food and scarcely anything +but a few fish, had been almost starved, and received this new +luxury with great thankfulness. Out of compliment to the chief, +we gave him a few dried squashes, which we had brought from +the Mandans, and he declared it was the best food he had ever +tasted except sugar, a small lump of which he had received from +his sister Sacajawea. He now declared how happy they should +all be to live in a country which produced so many good things; +and we told him that it would not be long before the white +men would put it in their power to live below the mountains, +where they might themselves cultivate all these kinds of food, +instead of wandering in the mountains. He appeared to be much pleased +with this information, and the whole party being now in excellent +temper after their repast, we began our purchase of horses. +We soon obtained five very good ones, on very reasonable terms-- +that is, by giving for each horse merchandise which cost us +originally about $6. We have again to admire the perfect +decency and propriety of the Indians; for though so numerous, +they do not attempt to crowd round our camp or take anything +which they see lying about, and whenever they borrow knives +or kettles or any other article from the men, they return them +with great fidelity." + +Captain Lewis anxiously wished to push on to meet Clark, who, as we have seen, +was then far down on the Salmon River. Lewis was still at the forks +of Jefferson River, it should be borne in mind; and their objective point +was the upper Shoshonee village on the Lemhi River, across the divide. +While on the way over the divide, Lewis was greatly troubled by the freaks +of the Indians, who, regardless of their promises, would propose +to return to the buffalo country on the eastern side of the mountains. +Learning that Cameahwait and his chiefs had sent a messenger over to the +Lemhi to notify the village to come and join an expedition of this sort, +Captain Lewis was dismayed. His journal says:-- + +"Alarmed at this new caprice of the Indians, which, if not counteracted, +threatened to leave ourselves and our baggage on the mountains, or even if we +reached the waters of the Columbia, to prevent our obtaining horses to go +on further, Captain Lewis immediately called the three chiefs together. +After smoking a pipe he asked them if they were men of their word, and if we +could rely on their promises. They readily answered in the affirmative. +He then asked if they had not agreed to assist us in carrying our baggage over +the mountains. To this they also answered yes. `Why, then,' said he, `have +you requested your people to meet us to-morrow where it will be impossible +for us to trade for horses, as you promised we should? If,' he continued, +`you had not promised to help us in transporting our goods over the mountains, +we should not have attempted it, but have returned down the river; +after which no white men would ever have come into your country. If you +wish the whites to be your friends, to bring you arms, and to protect you +from your enemies, you should never promise what you do not mean to perform. +When I first met you, you doubted what I said, yet you afterward saw that I +told you the truth. How, therefore, can you doubt what I now tell you? +You see that I divide amongst you the meat which my hunters kill, and I +promise to give all who assist us a share of whatever we have to eat. +If, therefore, you intend to keep your promise, send one of the young men +immediately, to order the people to remain at the village till we arrive.' +The two inferior chiefs then said that they had wished to keep their word +and to assist us; that they had not sent for the people, but on the contrary +had disapproved of that measure, which was done wholly by the first chief. +Cameahwait remained silent for some time; at last he said that he knew +he had done wrong, but that, seeing his people all in want of provisions, +he had wished to hasten their departure for the country where their wants +might be supplied. He, however, now declared that, having passed his word, +he would never violate it, and counter-orders were immediately sent +to the village by a young man, to whom we gave a handkerchief in order +to ensure despatch and fidelity. . . . + +"This difficulty being now adjusted, our march was resumed with an +unusual degree of alacrity on the part of the Indians. We passed +a spot where, six years ago, the Shoshonees had suffered a very severe +defeat from the Minnetarees; and late in the evening we reached +the upper part of the cove, where the creek enters the mountains. +The part of the cove on the northeast side of the creek has +lately been burned, most probably as a signal on some occasion. +Here we were joined by our hunters with a single deer, +which Captain Lewis gave, as a proof of his sincerity, +to the women and children, and remained supperless himself. +As we came along we observed several large hares, some ducks, +and many of the cock of the plains: in the low grounds of the cove +were also considerable quantities of wild onions." + +Arriving at the Shoshonee village on the Lemhi, Captain Lewis +found a note from Captain Clark, sent back by a runner, +informing him of the difficulty and impossibility of a water +route to the Columbia. Cameahwait, being told that his white +friends would now need twenty more horses, said that he would +do what he could to help them. The journal here adds:-- + +"In order not to lose the present favorable moment, and to keep the Indians +as cheerful as possible, the violins were brought out and our men danced, +to the great diversion of the Indians. This mirth was the more welcome +because our situation was not precisely that which would most dispose us +to gayety; for we have only a little parched corn to eat, and our means +of subsistence or of success depend on the wavering temper of the natives, +who may change their minds to-morrow. . . . + +"The Shoshonees are a small tribe of the nation called the Snake Indians, +a vague appellation, which embraces at once the inhabitants of the southern +parts of the Rocky Mountains and of the plains on either side. +The Shoshonees with whom we now were amount to about one hundred warriors, +and three times that number of women and children. Within their own +recollection they formerly lived in the plains, but they have been +driven into the mountains by the Pahkees, or the roving Indians of +the Sascatchawan, and are now obliged to visit occasionally, and by stealth, +the country of their ancestors. Their lives, indeed, are migratory. +From the middle of May to the beginning of September they reside on +the headwaters of the Columbia, where they consider themselves perfectly +secure from the Pahkees, who have never yet found their way to that retreat. +During this time they subsist chiefly on salmon, and, as that fish disappears +on the approach of autumn, they are driven to seek subsistence elsewhere. +They then cross the ridge to the waters of the Missouri, down which they +proceed slowly and cautiously, till they are joined near the Three Forks +by other bands, either of their own nation or of the Flatheads, with whom +they associate against the common enemy. Being now strong in numbers, +they venture to hunt the buffalo in the plains eastward of the mountains, +near which they spend the winter, till the return of the salmon invites them +to the Columbia. But such is their terror of the Pahkees, that, so long +as they can obtain the scantiest subsistence, they do not leave the interior +of the mountains; and, as soon as they have collected a large stock +of dried meat, they again retreat, thus alternately obtaining their food +at the hazard of their lives, and hiding themselves to consume it. + +"In this loose and wandering life they suffer the extremes of want; +for two thirds of the year they are forced to live in the mountains, +passing whole weeks without meat, and with nothing to eat but a few +fish and roots. Nor can anything be imagined more wretched than their +condition at the present time, when the salmon is fast retiring, +when roots are becoming scarce, and they have not yet acquired strength +to hazard an encounter with their enemies. So insensible are they, +however, to these calamities, that the Shoshonees are not only cheerful, +but even gay; and their character, which is more interesting than that of +any Indians we have seen, has in it much of the dignity of misfortune. +In their intercourse with strangers they are frank and communicative; +in their dealings they are perfectly fair; nor have we, during our stay +with them, had any reason to suspect that the display of all our new +and valuable wealth has tempted them into a single act of dishonesty. +While they have generally shared with us the little they possess, +they have always abstained from begging anything from us. +With their liveliness of temper, they are fond of gaudy dresses and all +sorts of amusements, particularly games of hazard; and, like most Indians, +delight in boasting of their warlike exploits, either real or fictitious. +In their conduct towards us they have been kind and obliging; +and though on one occasion they seemed willing to neglect us, yet we +scarcely knew how to blame the treatment by which we were to suffer, +when we recollected how few civilized chiefs would have hazarded the comforts +or the subsistence of their people for the sake of a few strangers. +. . . . . . . . . + +"As war is the chief occupation, bravery is the first virtue +among the Shoshonees. None can hope to be distinguished without +having given proofs of it, nor can there be any preferment +or influence among the nation, without some warlike achievement. +Those important events which give reputation to a warrior, +and entitle him to a new name, are: killing a white [or +grizzly] bear, stealing individually the horses of the enemy, +leading a party who happen to be successful either in plundering +horses or destroying the enemy, and lastly, scalping a warrior. +These acts seem of nearly equal dignity, but the last, +that of taking an enemy's scalp, is an honor quite independent +of the act of vanquishing him. To kill your adversary is of no +importance unless the scalp is brought from the field of battle; +were a warrior to slay any number of his enemies in action, +and others were to obtain the scalps or first touch the dead, +they would have all the honors, since they have borne off the trophy. +. . . . . . . . . + +"The names of these Indians vary in the course of their life. +Originally given in childhood, from the mere necessity of distinguishing +objects, or from some accidental resemblance to external objects, +the young warrior is impatient to change it by some achievement of his own. +Any important event--the stealing of horses, the scalping of an enemy, +or the killing of a brown bear--entitles him at once to a new name, +which he then selects for himself, and it is confirmed by the nation. +Sometimes the two names subsist together; thus, the chief Cameahwait, +which means `One Who Never Walks,' has the war-name of Tooettecone, +or `Black Gun,' which he acquired when he first signalized himself. +As each new action gives a warrior a right to change his name, +many of them have several in the course of their lives. To give +to a friend one's own name is an act of high courtesy, and a pledge, +like that of pulling off the moccasin, of sincerity and hospitality. +The chief in this way gave his name to Captain Clark when he first arrived, +and he was afterward known among the Shoshonees by the name of Cameahwait." + +On the thirtieth of August, the whole expedition being now reunited, +and a sufficient number of horses having been purchased of +the Shoshonees, the final start across the mountains was begun. +The journal says: + +"The greater part of the band, who had delayed their journey +on our account, were also ready to depart. We took leave +of the Shoshonees, who set out on their visit to the Missouri at +the same time that we, accompanied by the old guide, his four sons, +and another Indian, began the descent of the Lemhi River, +along the same road which Captain Clark had previously pursued. +After riding twelve miles we camped on the south bank of this river, +and as the hunters had brought in three deer early in the morning, +we did not feel the want of provisions." + +Three days later, all the Indians, except the old guide, left them. +They now passed up Fish Creek, and finding no track leading over +the mountains they cut their way. Their journal says:-- + +"This we effected with much difficulty; the thickets of trees and brush +through which we were obliged to cut our way required great labor; +the road itself was over the steep and rocky sides of the hills, +where the horses could not move without danger of slipping down, +while their feet were bruised by the rocks and stumps of trees. +Accustomed as these animals were to this kind of life, +they suffered severely; several of them fell to some distance +down the sides of the hills, some turned over with the baggage, +one was crippled, and two gave out, exhausted with fatigue. +After crossing the creek several times we at last made five miles, +with great fatigue and labor, and camped on the left side of the creek +in a small stony low ground. It was not, however, till after +dark that the whole party was collected; and then, as it rained +and we had killed nothing, we passed an uncomfortable night. +The party had been too busily occupied with the horses to make +any hunting excursion; and though, as we came along Fish Creek, +we saw many beaver-dams, we saw none of the animals themselves." + +The Indian guide appears here to have lost his way; +but, not dismayed, he pushed on through a trackless wilderness, +sometimes travelling on the snow that now covered the mountains. +On the fourth of September, the party came upon a large +encampment of Indians, who received them with much ceremony. +The journal says:-- + +"September 5, we assembled the chiefs and warriors, and informed them +who we were, and the purpose for which we had visited their country. +All this was, however, conveyed to them through so many different languages, +that it was not comprehended without difficulty. We therefore +proceeded to the more intelligible language of presents, and made four +chiefs by giving a medal and a small quantity of tobacco to each. +We received in turn from the principal chief a present consisting +of the skins of a blaireau (badger), an otter, and two antelopes, +and were treated by the women to some dried roots and berries. +We then began to traffic for horses, and succeeded in exchanging seven +and purchasing eleven, for which we gave a few articles of merchandise. + +"This encampment consists of thirty-three tents, in which +were about four hundred souls, among whom eighty were men. +They are called Ootlashoots, and represent themselves as one band +of a nation called Tushepaws, a numerous people of four hundred +and fifty tents, residing on the head-waters of the Missouri +and Columbia rivers, and some of them lower down the latter river. +In person these Indians are stout, and their complexion lighter +than that common among Indians. The hair of the men is worn +in queues of otter skin, falling in front over the shoulders. +A shirt of dressed skin covers the body to the knee, and over this is +worn occasionally a robe. To these are added leggings and moccasins. +The women suffer their hair to fall in disorder over the face +and shoulders, and their chief article of covering is a long shirt +of skin, reaching down to the ankles, and tied round the waist. +In other respects, as also in the few ornaments which they possess, +their appearance is similar to that of the Shoshonees: +there is, however, a difference between the languages of these +two people, which is still farther increased by the very extraordinary +pronunciation of the Ootlashoots. Their words have all a remarkably +guttural sound, and there is nothing which seems to represent +the tone of their speaking more exactly than the clucking of a fowl +or the noise of a parrot. This peculiarity renders their voices +scarcely audible, except at a short distance; and, when many +of them are talking, forms a strange confusion of sounds. +The common conversation that we overheard consisted of low, +guttural sounds, occasionally broken by a low word or two, +after which it would relapse, and could scarcely be distinguished. +They seemed kind and friendly, and willingly shared with us +berries and roots, which formed their sole stock of provisions. +Their only wealth is their horses, which are very fine, and so +numerous that this party had with them at least five hundred." + +These Indians were on their way to join the other bands who were hunting +buffalo on the Jefferson River, across the Great Divide. They set +out the next morning, and the explorers resumed their toilsome journey, +travelling generally in a northwesterly direction and looking for a +pass across the Bitter Root Mountains. Very soon, all indications +of game disappeared, and, September 14, they were forced to kill a colt, +their stock of animal food being exhausted. They pressed on, however, +through a savage wilderness, having frequent need to recur to horse-flesh. +Here is an entry under date of September 18, in the journal: +"We melted some snow, and supped on a little portable soup, a few +canisters of which, with about twenty pounds' weight of bear's oil, +are our only remaining means of subsistence. Our guns are scarcely +of any service, for there is no living creature in these mountains, +except a few small pheasants, a small species of gray squirrel, and a blue +bird of the vulture kind, about the size of a turtle-dove, or jay. +Even these are difficult to shoot." + +"A bold running creek," up which Captain Clark passed on +September 19, was appropriately named by him "Hungry Creek," +as at that place they had nothing to eat. But, at about six miles' +distance from the head of the stream, "he fortunately found +a horse, on which he breakfasted, and hung the rest on a tree +for the party in the rear." This was one of the wild horses, +strayed from Indian bands, which they found in the wilderness, +too wild to be caught and used, but not too wild to shoot and eat. +Later, on the same day, this entry is made in the journal: + +"The road along the creek is a narrow rocky path near the borders of very +high precipices, from which a fall seems almost inevitable destruction. +One of our horses slipped and rolled over with his load down the hillside, +which was nearly perpendicular and strewed with large irregular rocks, +nearly one hundred yards, and did not stop till he fell into the creek. +We all expected he was killed, but to our astonishment, on taking +off his load he rose, seemed but little injured, and in twenty +minutes proceeded with his load. Having no other provision, +we took some portable soup, our only refreshment during the day. +This abstinence, joined with fatigue, has a visible effect on our health. +The men are growing weak and losing their flesh very fast; several are +afflicted with dysentery, and eruptions of the skin are very common." + +Next day, the party descended the last of the Bitter Root range and reached +level country. They were at last over the Great Divide. Three Indian boys +were discovered hiding in the grass, in great alarm. Captain Clark at once +dismounted from his horse, and, making signs of amity, went after the boys. +He calmed their terrors, and, giving them some bits of ribbon, sent them home. + +"Soon after the boys reached home, a man came out to meet the party, +with great caution; but he conducted them to a large tent +in the village, and all the inhabitants gathered round to view +with a mixture of fear and pleasure these wonderful strangers. +The conductor now informed Captain Clark, by signs, +that the spacious tent was the residence of the great chief, +who had set out three days ago with all the warriors to attack +some of their enemies toward the southwest; that he would not +return before fifteen or eighteen days, and that in the mean time +there were only a few men left to guard the women and children. +They now set before them a small piece of buffalo-meat, +some dried salmon, berries, and several kinds of roots. +Among these last is one which is round, much like an onion +in appearance, and sweet to the taste. It is called quamash, +and is eaten either in its natural state, or boiled into a kind +of soup, or made into a cake, which is then called pasheco. +After the long abstinence this was a sumptuous treat. +They returned the kindness of the people by a few small presents, +and then went on in company with one of the chiefs to a second +village in the same plain, at the distance of two miles. +Here the party were treated with great kindness, and passed the night. +The hunters were sent out, but, though they saw some tracks +of deer, were not able to procure anything." + +The root which the Indians used in so many ways is now known as camas; +it is still much sought for by the Nez Perces and other wandering tribes +in the Northwest, and Camas Prairie, in that region, derives its name +from the much-sought-for vegetable. + +Captain Clark and his men stayed with these hospitable Indians +several days. The free use of wholesome food, to which he had not +lately been accustomed, made Clark very ill, and he contented himself +with staying in the Indian villages, of which. there were two. +These Indians called themselves Chopunnish, or Pierced Noses; +this latter name is now more commonly rendered Nez Perces, the French +voyageurs having given it that translation into their own tongue. +But these people, so far as known, did not pierce their noses. +After sending a man back on the trail to notify Captain Lewis +of his progress, Captain Clark went on to the village +of Chief Twisted-hair. Most of the women and children, +though notified of the coming of the white man, were so scared +by the appearance of the strangers that they fled to the woods. +The men, however, received them without fear and gave them a plentiful +supply of food. They were now on one of the upper branches +of the Kooskooskee River, near what is the site of Pierce City, +county seat of Shoshonee County, Idaho. The Indians endeavored, +by means of signs, to explain to their visitors the geography +of the country beyond. + +"Among others, Twisted-hair drew a chart of the river on +a white elk-skin. According to this, the Kooskooskee forks +[confluence of its North fork] a few miles from this place; +two days toward the south is another and larger fork [confluence +of Snake River], on which the Shoshonee or Snake Indians fish; +five days' journey further is a large river from the northwest +[that is, the Columbia itself] into which Clark's River empties; +from the mouth of that river [that is, confluence of the Snake +with the Columbia] to the falls is five days' journey further; +on all the forks as well as on the main river great numbers +of Indians reside." + +On the twenty-third of September, Captain Lewis and his party having +come up, the white men assembled the Indians and explained to them +where they came from and what was their errand across the continent. +The Indians appeared to be entirely satisfied, and they sold their +visitors as much provisions as their half-famished horses could carry. +The journal here says:-- + +"All around the village the women are busily employed in gathering +and dressing the pasheco-root, of which large quantities +are heaped in piles over the plain. We now felt severely +the consequence of eating heartily after our late privations. +Captain Lewis and two of the men were taken very ill last evening; +to-day he could hardly sit on his horse, while others were obliged +to be put on horseback, and some, from extreme weakness and pain, +were forced to lie down alongside of the road for some time. +At sunset we reached the island where the hunters had been +left on the 22d. They had been unsuccessful, having killed +only two deer since that time, and two of them were very sick. +A little below this island is a larger one on which we camped, +and administered Rush's pills to the sick." + +The illness of the party continued for several days, and not much +progress was made down-stream. Having camped, on the twenty-seventh +of September, in the Kooskooskee River, at a place where plenty of good +timber was found, preparations for building five canoes were begun. +From this time to the fifth of October, all the men capable of labor +were employed in preparing the canoes. The health of the party +gradually recruited, though they still suffered severely from want +of food; and, as the hunters had but little success in procuring game, +they were obliged on the second to kill one of their horses. +Indians from different quarters frequently visited them, but all that +could be obtained from them was a little fish and some dried roots. +This diet was not only unnutritious, but in many cases it caused +dysentery and nausea. + + + +Chapter XV + +Down the Pacific Slope + +The early days of October were spent in making preparations for the +descent of the river,--the Kooskooskee. Here they made their canoes, +and they called their stopping-place Canoe Camp. This was at +the junction of the north fork of the river with the main stream; +and all below that point is called the Lower Kooskooskee, while that +above is known as the upper river. The latitude of the camp, +according to the journal of the explorers, was 46'0 34' 56" north. +Here they buried in a cache their saddles, horse-gear, and a small +supply of powder and musket balls for possible emergencies. +The Kooskooskee, it should be borne in mind, is now better known +as the Clearwater; it empties into the Snake River, and that into +the Columbia. As far as the explorers knew the water-course down +which they were to navigate, they called it Clark's River, in honor +of Captain Clark. But modern geographers have displaced the name +of that eminent explorer and map-maker and have divided the stream, +or streams, with other nomenclature. + +On the eighth of October the party set out on their long water +journey in five canoes, one of which was a small craft intended +to go on ahead and pilot the way (which, of course, was unknown) +for the four larger ones, in which travelled the main party +with their luggage. They met with disaster very soon after +their start, one of the canoes having struck a rock, which made +a hole in its side and caused the sinking of the craft. +Fortunately, no lives were lost, but the voyage was interrupted. +The party went ashore and did not resume their journey +until their luggage was dried and the canoe repaired. +On the ninth, says the journal:-- + +"The morning was as usual cool; but as the weather both yesterday +and to-day was cloudy, our merchandise dried but slowly. +The boat, though much injured, was repaired by ten o'clock so as to +be perfectly fit for service; but we were obliged to remain during +the day till the articles were sufficiently dry to be reloaded. +The interval we employed in purchasing fish for the voyage, +and conversing with the Indians. In the afternoon we were surprised +at hearing that our old Shoshonee guide and his son had left us +and had been seen running up the river several miles above. +As he had never given any notice of his intention, nor had even +received his pay for guiding us, we could not imagine the cause +of his desertion; nor did he ever return to explain his conduct. +We requested the chief to send a horseman after him to +request that he would return and receive what we owed him. +From this, however, he dissuaded us, and said very frankly +that his nation, the Chopunnish, would take from the old +man any presents that he might have on passing their camp. +The Indians came about our camp at night, and were very gay and +good-humored with the men. Among other exhibitions was that of a squaw +who appeared to be crazy. She sang in a wild, incoherent manner, +and offered to the spectators all the little articles she possessed, +scarifying herself in a horrid manner if anyone refused her present. +She seemed to be an object of pity among the Indians, who suffered +her to do as she pleased without interruption." + +The river was full of rapids and very dangerous rocks and reefs, +and the voyagers were able to make only twenty miles a day for some +distance along the stream. At the confluence of the Kooskooskee +and the Snake River they camped for the night, near the present +site of Lewiston, Idaho. This city, first settled in May, 1861, +and incorporated in 1863, was named for Captain Lewis of our expedition. +From this point the party crossed over into the present State +of Washington. Of their experience at their camp here the journal says:-- + +"Our arrival soon attracted the attention of the Indians, +who flocked in all directions to see us. In the evening the Indian +from the falls, whom we had seen at Rugged rapid, joined us with his +son in a small canoe, and insisted on accompanying us to the falls. +Being again reduced to fish and roots, we made an experiment +to vary our food by purchasing a few dogs, and after having been +accustomed to horse-flesh, felt no disrelish for this new dish. +The Chopunnish have great numbers of dogs, which they employ +for domestic purposes, but never eat; and our using the flesh +of that animal soon brought us into ridicule as dog-eaters." + +When Fremont and his men crossed the continent to California, +in 1842, they ate the flesh of that species of marmot which we +know as the prairie-dog. Long afterwards, when Fremont was +a candidate for the office of President of the United States, +this fact was recalled to the minds of men, and the famous +explorer was denounced as "a dog-eater." + +The journal of the explorers gives this interesting account of the Indians +among whom they now found themselves:-- + +"The Chopunnish or Pierced-nose nation, who reside on the Kooskooskee +and Lewis' [Snake] rivers, are in person stout, portly, well-looking men; +the women are small, with good features and generally handsome, though the +complexion of both sexes is darker than that of the Tushepaws. In dress +they resemble that nation, being fond of displaying their ornaments. +The buffalo or elk-skin robe decorated with beads; sea-shells, chiefly +mother-of-pearl, attached to an otter-skin collar and hung in the hair, +which falls in front in two cues; feathers, paints of different kinds, +principally white, green, and light blue, all of which they find +in their own country; these are the chief ornaments they use. +In the winter they wear a short skirt of dressed skins, long painted +leggings and moccasins, and a plait of twisted grass round the neck. +The dress of the women is more simple, consisting of a long shirt +of argalia [argali] or ibex [bighorn] skin, reaching down to the ankles, +without a girdle; to this are tied little pieces of brass, shells, +and other small articles; but the head is not at all ornamented. + +"The Chopunnish have very few amusements, for their life is painful +and laborious; all their exertions are necessary to earn even their +precarious subsistence. During the summer and autumn they are busily +occupied in fishing for salmon and collecting their winter store of roots. +In winter they hunt the deer on snow-shoes over the plains, and toward +spring cross the mountains to the Missouri for the purpose of rafficking +for buffalo-robe. The inconveniences of their comfortless life are +increased by frequent encounters with their enemies from the west, +who drive them over the mountains with the loss of their horses, +and sometimes the lives of many of the nation." + +After making a short stage on their journey, October 11, the party +stopped to trade with the Indians, their stock of provisions being low. +They were able to purchase a quantity of salmon and seven dogs. +They saw here a novel kind of vapor bath which is thus described +in the journal:-- + +"While this traffic was going on we observed a vapor bath or sweating-house, +in a different form from that used on the frontier of the United States +or in the Rocky Mountains. It was a hollow square six or eight +feet deep, formed in the river bank by damming up with mud the other +three sides and covering the whole completely, except an aperture +about two feet wide at the top. The bathers descend by this hole, +taking with them a number of heated stones and jugs of water; +after being seated round the room they throw the water on the stones till +the steam becomes of a temperature sufficiently high for their purposes. +The baths of the Indians in the Rocky Mountains are of different sizes, +the most common being made of mud and sticks like an oven, but the mode +of raising the steam is exactly the same. Among both these nations it is +very uncommon for a man to bathe alone; he is generally accompanied by one +or sometimes several of his acquaintances; indeed, it is so essentially +a social amusement, that to decline going in to bathe when invited by a +friend is one of the highest indignities which can be offered to him. +The Indians on the frontier generally use a bath which will accommodate +only one person, formed of a wicker-work of willows about four feet high, +arched at the top, and covered with skins. In this the patient sits, +till by means of the heated stones and water he has perspired sufficiently. +Almost universally these baths are in the neighborhood of running water, +into which the Indians plunge immediately on coming out of the vapor bath, +and sometimes return again and subject themselves to a second perspiration. +This practice is, however, less frequent among our neighboring nations +than those to the westward. This bath is employed either for pleasure +or for health, and is used indiscriminately for all kinds of diseases." + +The expedition was now on the Snake River, making all possible speed toward +the Columbia, commonly known to the Indians as "The Great River." The stream +was crowded with dangerous rapids, and sundry disasters were met with +by the way; thus, on the fourteenth of October, a high wind blowing, +one of the canoes was driven upon a rock sidewise and filled with water. +The men on board got out and dragged the canoe upon the rock, where they held +her above water. Another canoe, having been unloaded, was sent to the relief +of the shipwrecked men, who, after being left on the rock for some time, +were taken off without any other loss than the bedding of two of them. +But accidents like this delayed the party, as they were forced to land +and remain long enough to dry the goods that had been exposed to the water. +Several such incidents are told in the journal of the explorers. +Few Indians were to be seen along the banks of the river, but occasionally +the party came to a pile of planks and timbers which were the materials +from which were built the houses of such Indians as came here in the fishing +season to catch a supply for the winter and for trading purposes. +Occasionally, the complete scarcity of fuel compelled the explorers +to depart from their general rule to avoid taking any Indian property +without leave; and they used some of these house materials for firewood, +with the intent to pay the rightful owners, if they should ever be found. +On the sixteenth of October, they met with a party of Indians, of whom +the journal gives this account:-- + +"After crossing by land we halted for dinner, and whilst we +were eating were visited by five Indians, who came up the river +on foot in great haste. We received them kindly, smoked with them, +and gave them a piece of tobacco to smoke with their tribe. +On receiving the present they set out to return, and continued +running as fast as they could while they remained in sight. +Their curiosity had been excited by the accounts of our +two chiefs, who had gone on in order to apprise the tribes +of our approach and of our friendly disposition toward them. +After dinner we reloaded the canoes and proceeded. +We soon passed a rapid opposite the upper point of a sandy +island on the left, which has a smaller island near it. +At three miles is a gravelly bar in the river; four miles +beyond this the Kimooenim [Snake] empties into the Columbia, +and at its mouth has an island just below a small rapid. + +"We halted above the point of junction, on the Kimooenim, to confer +with the Indians, who had collected in great numbers to receive us. +On landing we were met by our two chiefs, to whose good offices we +were indebted for this reception, and also the two Indians who had +passed us a few days since on horseback; one of whom appeared +to be a man of influence, and harangued the Indians on our arrival. +After smoking with the Indians, we formed a camp at the point +where the two rivers unite, near to which we found some driftwood, +and were supplied by our two old chiefs with the stalks of willows +and some small bushes for fuel. + +"We had scarcely fixed the camp and got the fires prepared, +when a chief came from the Indian camp about a quarter of a mile +up the Columbia, at the head of nearly two hundred men. +They formed a regular procession, keeping time to the music, +or, rather, noise of their drums, which they accompanied +with their voices; and as they advanced, they ranged themselves +in a semicircle around us, and continued singing for some time. +We then smoked with them all, and communicated, as well as we +could by signs, our friendly intentions towards every nation, +and our joy at finding ourselves surrounded by our children. +After this we proceeded to distribute presents among them, +giving the principal chief a large medal, a shirt, and a handkerchief; +to the second chief, a medal of a smaller size; and to a third, +who had come down from some of the upper villages, a small +medal and a handkerchief. This ceremony being concluded, +they left us; but in the course of the afternoon several +of them returned, and remained with us till a late hour. +After they had dispersed, we proceeded to purchase provisions, +and were enabled to collect seven dogs, to which some of the Indians +added small presents of fish, and one of them gave us twenty +pounds of fat dried horse-flesh." + +The explorers were still in the country which is now the State of Washington, +at a point where the counties of Franklin, Yakima, and Walla Walla +come together, at the junction of the Snake and the Columbia. We quote +now from the journal:-- + +"From the point of junction the country is a continued plain, low near +the water, from which it rises gradually, and the only elevation to be seen +is a range of high country running from northeast to southwest, where it +joins a range of mountains from the southwest, and is on the opposite +side about two miles from the Columbia. There is on this plain no tree, +and scarcely any shrubs, except a few willow-bushes; even of smaller plants +there is not much more than the prickly-pear, which is in great abundance, +and is even more thorny and troublesome than any we have yet seen. +During this time the principal chief came down with several of his warriors, +and smoked with us. We were also visited by several men and women, +who offered dogs and fish for sale; but as the fish was out of season, +and at present abundant in the river, we contented ourselves with purchasing +all the dogs we could obtain. + +"The nation among which we now are call themselves Sokulks; +with them are united a few of another nation, who reside on a western +branch which empties into the Columbia a few miles above the mouth +of the latter river, and whose name is Chimnapum. The languages +of these two nations, of each of which we obtained a vocabulary, +differ but little from each other, or from that of the Chopunnish +who inhabit the Kooskooskee and Lewis' rivers. In their dress +and general appearance they also much resemble those nations; +the men wearing a robe of deer- or antelope-skin, under which a few +of them have a short leathern shirt. The most striking difference is +among the females, the Sokulk women being more inclined to corpulency +than any we have yet seen. Their stature is low, their faces are broad, +and their heads flattened in such a manner that the forehead +is in a straight line from the nose to the crown of the head. +Their eyes are of a dirty sable, their hair is coarse and black, +and braided without ornament of any kind. Instead of wearing, +as do the Chopunnish, long leathern shirts highly decorated with beads +and shells, the Sokulk women have no other covering but a truss or piece +of leather tied round the hips, and drawn tight between the legs. +The ornaments usually worn by both sexes are large blue or white beads, +either pendant from their ears, or round the neck, wrists, and arms; +they have likewise bracelets of brass, copper, and born, and some +trinkets of shells, fishbones, and curious feathers. + +"The houses of the Sokulks are made of large mats of rushes, and are generally +of a square or oblong form, varying in length from fifteen to sixty feet, +and supported in the inside by poles or forks about six feet high. +The top is covered with mats, leaving a space of twelve or fifteen +inches the whole length of the house, for the purpose of admitting +the light and suffering the smoke to escape. The roof is nearly flat, +which seems to indicate that rains are not common in this open country; +and the house is not divided into apartments, the fire being in the +middle of the enclosure, and immediately under the bole in the roof. +The interior is ornamented with their nets, gigs, and other fishing-tackle, +as well as the bow of each inmate, and a large quiver of arrows, +which are headed with flint. + +"The Sokulks seem to be of a mild and peaceable disposition, +and live in a state of comparative happiness. The men, +like those on the Kimooenim, are said to content themselves with a +single wife, with whom the husband, we observe, shares the labors +of procuring subsistence much more than is common among savages. +What may be considered an unequivocal proof of their good disposition, +is the great respect which is shown to old age. Among other marks +of it, we noticed in one of the houses an old woman perfectly blind, +and who, we were told, had lived more than a hundred winters. +In this state of decrepitude, she occupied the best position +in the house, seemed to be treated with great kindness, +and whatever she said was listened to with much attention. +They are by no means obtrusive; and as their fisheries supply them +with a competent, if not an abundant subsistence, although they +receive thankfully whatever we choose to give, they do not +importune us by begging. Fish is, indeed, their chief food, +except roots and casual supplies of antelope, which latter, +to those who have only bows and arrows, must be very scanty. +This diet may be the direct or the remote cause of the chief +disorder which prevails among them, as well as among the Flatheads +on the Kooskooskee and Lewis' rivers. With all these Indians +a bad soreness of the eyes is a very common disorder, which is +suffered to ripen by neglect, till many are deprived of one +of their eyes, and some have totally lost the use of both. +This dreadful calamity may reasonably, we think, be imputed +to the constant reflection of the sun on the waters, where they +are constantly fishing in the spring, summer, and fall, +and during the rest of the year on the snows of a country +which affords no object to relieve the sight. + +"Among the Sokulks, indeed among all the tribes whose chief subsistence +is fish, we have observed that bad teeth are very general; some have +the teeth, particularly those of the upper jaw, worn down to the gums, +and many of both sexes, even of middle age, have lost them almost entirely. +This decay of the teeth is a circumstance very unusual among Indians, +either of the mountains or the plains, and seems peculiar to the inhabitants +of the Columbia. We cannot avoid regarding as one principal cause +of it the manner in which they eat their food. The roots are swallowed +as they are dug from the ground, frequently covered with a gritty sand; +so little idea have they that this is offensive that all the roots they +offer us for sale are in the same condition." + +The explorers were now at the entrance of the mighty +Columbia,--"The Great River" of which they had heard so much +from the Indians. We might suppose that when they actually +embarked upon the waters of the famous stream, variously known +as "The River of the North" and "The Oregon," the explorers +would be touched with a little of the enthusiasm with which they +straddled the headwaters of the Missouri and gazed upon the +snow-covered peaks of the Rocky Mountains. But no such kindling +of the imagination seems to have been noted in their journal. +In this commonplace way, according to their own account, +Captain Clark entered upon the mighty Columbia:-- + +"In the course of the day [October 17, 1805], Captain Clark, +in a small canoe with two men, ascended the Columbia. At the distance +of five miles he passed an island in the middle of the river, +at the head of which was a small but not dangerous rapid. +On the left bank, opposite to this island, was a fishing-place +consisting of three mat houses. Here were great quantities of salmon +drying on scaffolds; and, indeed, from the mouth of the river upward, +he saw immense numbers of dead salmon strewed along the shore, +or floating on the surface of the water, which is so clear that +the fish may be seen swimming at the depth of fifteen or twenty feet. +The Indians, who had collected on the banks to observe him, +now joined him in eighteen canoes, and accompanied him up the river. +A mile above the rapids he came to the lower point of an island, +where the course of the stream, which had been from its mouth +north eighty-three degrees west, now became due west. +He proceeded in that direction, until, observing three house's +of mats at a short distance, he landed to visit them. +On entering one of these houses, he found it crowded with men, women, +and children, who immediately provided a mat for him to sit on, +and one of the party undertook to prepare something to eat. +He began by bringing in a piece of pine wood that had drifted down +the river, which he split into small pieces with a wedge made of elkhorn, +by means of a mallet of stone curiously carved. The pieces of wood +were then laid on the fire, and several round stones placed upon them. +One of the squaws now brought a bucket of water, in which was a large +salmon about half dried, and, as the stones became heated, they were +put into the bucket till the salmon was sufficiently boiled for use. +It was then taken out, put on a platter of rushes neatly made, and laid +before Captain Clark, while another was boiled for each of his men. +During these preparations he smoked with such about him as would +accept of tobacco, but very few were desirous of smoking, a custom +which is not general among them, and chiefly used as a matter +of form in great ceremonies. + +"After eating the fish, which was of an excellent flavor, Captain Clark +set out and, at the distance of four miles from the last island, +came to the lower point of another near the left shore, where he halted +at two large mat-houses. Here, as at the three houses below, +the inhabitants were occupied in splitting and drying salmon. +The multitudes of this fish are almost inconceivable. +The water is so clear that they can readily be seen at the depth +of fifteen or twenty feet; but at this season they float in such +quantities down the stream, and are drifted ashore, that the Indians +have only to collect, split, and dry them on the scaffolds. +Where they procure the timber of which these scaffolds are composed +he could not learn; but as there is nothing but willow-bushes +to be seen for a great distance from this place, it rendered +very probable what the Indians assured him by signs, that they +often used dried fish as fuel for the common occasions of cooking. +From this island they showed him the entrance of the western branch +of the Columbia, called the Tapteal, which, as far as could be seen, +bears nearly west and empties about eight miles above into the Columbia, +the general course of which is northwest." + +The Tapteal, as the journal calls it, is now known as the Yakima, a stream +which has its source in the Cascade range of mountains, Washington. The party +tarried here long enough to secure from the Indians a tolerably correct +description of the river upon which they were about to embark. +One of the chiefs drew upon the skin-side of a buffalo robe a sketch of +the Columbia. And this was transferred to paper and put into the journal. +That volume adds here:-- + +"Having completed the purposes of our stay, we now began to lay in +our stores. Fish being out of season, we purchased forty dogs, for which we +gave small articles, such as bells, thimbles, knitting-needles, brass wire, +and a few beads, an exchange with which they all seemed perfectly satisfied. +These dogs, with six prairie-cocks killed this morning, formed a plentiful +supply for the present. We here left our guide and the two young men +who had accompanied him, two of the three being unwilling to go any further, +and the third being of no use, as he was not acquainted with the river below. +We therefore took no Indians but our two chiefs, and resumed our journey +in the presence of many of the Sokulks, who came to witness our departure. +The morning was cool and fair, and the wind from the southeast." + +They now began again to meet Indians who had never before seen white men. +On the nineteenth, says the journal:-- + +"The great chief, with two of his inferior chiefs and a third +belonging to a band on the river below, made us a visit at +a very early hour. The first of these was called Yelleppit,-- +a handsome, well-proportioned man, about five feet eight inches high, +and thirty-five years of age, with a bold and dignified countenance; +the rest were not distinguished in their appearance. +We smoked with them, and after making a speech, gave a medal, +a handkerchief, and a string of wampum to Yelleppit, but a string +of wampum only to the inferior chiefs. He requested us to remain +till the middle of the day, in order that all his nation +might come and see us; but we excused ourselves by telling him +that on our return we would spend two or three days with him. +This conference detained us till nine o'clock, by which time +great numbers of the Indians had come down to visit us. +On leaving them we went on for eight miles, when we came to an +island near the left shore, which continued six miles in length. +At its lower extremity is a small island on which are +five houses, at present vacant, though the scaffolds of fish +are as usual abundant. A short distance below are two +more islands, one of them near the middle of the river. +On this there were seven houses, but as soon as the Indians, +who were drying fish, saw us, they fled to their houses, +and not one of them appeared till we had passed; when they came +out in greater numbers than is usual for houses of that size, +which induced us to think that the inhabitants of the five lodges +had been alarmed at our approach and taken refuge with them. +We were very desirous of landing in order to relieve +their apprehensions, but as there was a bad rapid along the island +all our care was necessary to prevent injury to the canoes. +At the foot of this rapid is a rock on the left shore, +which is fourteen miles from our camp of last night and resembles +a hat in shape." + +Later in the day, Captain Clark ascended a bluff on the river bank, +where he saw "a very high mountain covered with snow." This was +Mount St. Helen's, in Cowlitz County, Washington. The altitude +of the peak is nine thousand seven hundred and fifty feet. +"Having arrived at the lower ends of the rapids below the bluff +before any of the rest of the party, be sat down on a rock +to wait for them, and, seeing a crane fly across the river, +shot it, and it fell near him. Several Indians had been +before this passing on the opposite side towards the rapids, +and some who were then nearly in front of him, being either alarmed +at his appearance or the report of the gun, fled to their houses. +Captain Clark was afraid that these people had not yet heard +that the white men were coming, and therefore, in order to allay +their uneasiness before the rest of the party should arrive, he got +into the small canoe with three men, rowed over towards the houses, +and, while crossing, shot a duck, which fell into the water. +As he approached no person was to be seen except three men +in the plains, and they, too, fled as he came near the shore. +He landed in front of five houses close to each other, but no +one appeared, and the doors, which were of mat, were closed. +He went towards one of them with a pipe in his hand, and, +pushing aside the mat, entered the lodge, where he found +thirty-two persons, chiefly men and women, with a few children, +all in the greatest consternation; some hanging down their heads, +others crying and wringing their hands. He went up to them, +and shook hands with each one in the most friendly manner; +but their apprehensions, which had for a moment subsided, +revived on his taking out a burning-glass, as there was no +roof to the house, and lighting his pipe: he then offered +it to several of the men, and distributed among the women +and children some small trinkets which he had with him, +and gradually restored a degree of tranquillity among them. + +"Leaving this house, and directing each of his men to visit a house, +he entered a second. Here he found the inmates more terrified than +those in the first; but he succeeded in pacifying them, and afterward +went into the other houses, where the men had been equally successful. +Retiring from the houses, he seated himself on a rock, and beckoned +to some of the men to come and smoke with him; but none of them +ventured to join him till the canoes arrived with the two chiefs, +who immediately explained our pacific intention towards them. +Soon after the interpreter's wife [Sacajawea] landed, and her +presence dissipated all doubts of our being well-disposed, +since in this country no woman ever accompanies a war party: +they therefore all came out, and seemed perfectly reconciled; +nor could we, indeed, blame them for their terrors, which were +perfectly natural. They told the two chiefs that they knew +we were not men, for they had seen us fall from the clouds. +In fact, unperceived by them, Captain Clark had shot the white crane, +which they had seen fall just before he appeared to their eyes: +the duck which he had killed also fell close by him; +and as there were some clouds flying over at the moment, +they connected the fall of the birds with his sudden appearance, +and believed that he had himself actually dropped from the clouds; +considering the noise of the rifle, which they had never +heard before, the sound announcing so extraordinary an event. +This belief was strengthened, when, on entering the room, +he brought down fire from the heavens by means of his burning-glass. +We soon convinced them, however, that we were merely mortals; +and after one of our chiefs had explained our history and objects, +we all smoked together in great harmony. + + + +Chapter XVI + +Down the Columbia to Tidewater + +The voyagers were now drifting down the Columbia River, and they +found the way impeded by many rapids, some of them very dangerous. +But their skill in the handling of their canoes seems to have been +equal to the occasion, although they were sometimes compelled to go +around the more difficult rapids, making a short land portage. +When they had travelled about forty miles down the river, they landed +opposite an island on which were twenty-four houses of Indians; +the people, known as the Pishquitpahs, were engaged in drying fish. +No sooner had the white men landed than the Indians, to the number +of one hundred, came across the stream bringing with them +some firewood, a most welcome present in that treeless country. +The visitors were entertained with presents and a long smoke +at the pipe of peace. So pleased were they with the music of two +violins played by Cruzatte and Gibson, of the exploring party, +that they remained by the fire of the white men all night. +The news of the arrival of the white strangers soon spread, +and next morning about two hundred more of the Indians assembled +to gaze on them. Later in the day, having gotten away from their +numerous inquisitive visitors, the explorers passed down-stream +and landed on a small island to examine a curious vault, +in which were placed the remains of the dead of the tribe. +The journal says:-- + +"This place, in which the dead are deposited, is a building +about sixty feet long and twelve feet wide, formed by placing +in the ground poles or forks six feet high, across which a +long pole is extended the whole length of the structure; +against this ridge-pole are placed broad boards and pieces +of canoes, in a slanting direction, so as to form a shed. +It stands cast and west, and neither of the extremities is closed. +On entering the western end we observed a number of bodies wrapped +carefully in leather robes, and arranged in rows on boards, +which were then covered with a mat. This was the part destined +for those who had recently died; a little further on, bones half +decayed were scattered about, and in the centre of the building +was a large pile of them heaped promiscuously on each other. +At the eastern extremity was a mat, on which twenty-one skulls +were placed in a circular form; the mode of interment being +first to wrap the body in robes, then as it decays to throw +the bones into the heap, and place the skulls together. +From the different boards and pieces of canoes which form +the vault were suspended, on the inside, fishing-nets, baskets, +wooden bowls, robes, skins, trenchers, and trinkets of various kinds, +obviously intended as offerings of affection to deceased relatives. +On the outside of the vault were the skeletons of several horses, +and great quantities of their bones were in the neighborhood, +which induced us to believe that these animals were most probably +sacrificed at the funeral rites of their masters." + +Just below this stand the party met Indians who traded with tribes +living near the great falls of the Columbia. That place they designated +as "Tum-tum," a word that signifies the throbbing of the heart. +One of these Indians had a sailor's jacket, and others had a blue +blanket and a scarlet blanket. These articles had found their way +up the river from white traders on the seashore. + +On the twenty-first of October the explorers discovered a considerable +stream which appeared to rise in the southeast and empty into the Columbia +on the left. To this stream they gave the name of Lepage for Bastien Lepage, +one of the voyageurs accompanying the party. The watercourse, however, +is now known as John Day's River. John Day was a mighty hunter and +backwoodsman from Kentucky who went across the continent, six years later, +with a party bound for Astoria, on the Columbia. From the rapids below +the John Day River the Lewis and Clark party caught their first sight +of Mount Hood, a famous peak of the Cascade range of mountains, looming up +in the southwest, eleven thousand two hundred and twenty-five feet high. +Next day they passed the mouth of another river entering the Columbia from +the south and called by the Indians the Towahnahiooks, but known to modern +geography as the Des Chutes, one of the largest southern tributaries of +the Columbia. Five miles below the mouth of this stream the party camped. +Near them was a party of Indians engaged in drying and packing salmon. +Their method of doing this is thus described:-- + +"The manner of doing this is by first opening the fish and exposing +it to the sun on scaffolds. When it is sufficiently dried it +is pounded between two stones till it is pulverized, and is then +placed in a basket about two feet long and one in diameter, +neatly made of grass and rushes, and lined with the skin of a salmon +stretched and dried for the purpose. Here the fish are pressed +down as hard as possible, and the top is covered with fish-skins, +which are secured by cords through the holes of the basket. +These baskets are then placed in some dry situation, +the corded part upward, seven being usually placed as close +as they can be put together, and five on the top of these. +The whole is then wrapped up in mats, and made fast by cords, +over which mats are again thrown. Twelve of these baskets, +each of which contains from ninety to one hundred pounds, +form a stack, which is left exposed till it is sent to market. +The fish thus preserved keep sound and sweet for several years, +and great quantities, they inform us, are sent to the Indians +who live below the falls, whence it finds its way to the whites +who visit the mouth of the Columbia. We observe, both near +the lodges and on the rocks in the river, great numbers of stacks +of these pounded fish. Besides fish, these people supplied us +with filberts and berries, and we purchased a dog for supper; +but it was with much difficulty that we were able to buy wood +enough to cook it." + +On the twenty-third the voyagers made the descent of the great +falls which had so long been an object of dread to them. +The whole height of the falls is thirty-seven feet, +eight inches, in a distance of twelve hundred yards. +A portage of four hundred and fifty yards was made around +the first fall, which is twenty feet high, and perpendicular. +By means of lines the canoes were let down the rapids below. +At the season of high water the falls become mere rapids up +which the salmon can pass. On this point the journal says:-- + +"From the marks everywhere perceivable at the falls, it is obvious +that in high floods, which must be in the spring, the water +below the falls rises nearly to a level with that above them. +Of this rise, which is occasioned by some obstructions which we +do not as yet know, the salmon must avail themselves to pass up +the river in such multitudes that this fish is almost the only one +caught in great abundance above the falls; but below that place +we observe the salmon-trout, and the heads of a species of trout +smaller than the salmon-trout, which is in great quantities, +and which they are now burying, to be used as their winter food. +A hole of any size being dug, the sides and bottom are lined +with straw, over which skins are laid; on these the fish, after being +well dried, are laid, covered with other skins, and the hole +is closed with a layer of earth twelve or fifteen inches deep. +. . . . . . . . . + +We saw no game except a sea-otter, which was shot in the narrow channel +as we were coming down, but we could not get it. Having, therefore, +scarcely any provisions, we purchased eight small fat dogs: +a food to which we were compelled to have recourse, as the Indians were +very unwilling to sell us any of their good fish, which they reserved +for the market below. Fortunately, however, habit had completely +overcome the repugnance which we felt at first at eating this animal, +and the dog, if not a favorite dish, was always an acceptable one. +The meridian altitude of to-day gave 45'0 42' 57.3" north as the latitude +of our camp. + +"On the beach, near the Indian huts, we observed two canoes of a +different shape and size from any which we had hitherto seen. +One of these we got by giving our smallest canoe a hatchet, +and a few trinkets to the owner, who said he had obtained it +from a white man below the falls in exchange for a horse. +These canoes were very beautifully made: wide in the middle, +and tapering towards each end, with curious figures carved on the bow. +They were thin, but, being strengthened by crossbars about +an inch in diameter, tied with strong pieces of bark through +holes in the sides, were able to bear very heavy burdens, +and seemed calculated to live in the roughest water." + +At this point the officers of the expedition observed signs of uneasiness +in the two friendly Indian chiefs who had thus far accompanied them. +They also heard rumors that the warlike Indians below them were meditating +an attack as the party went down. The journal says:-- + +"Being at all times ready for any attempt of that sort, we were not under +greater apprehensions than usual at this intelligence. We therefore only +re-examined our arms, and increased the ammunition to one hundred rounds. +Our chiefs, who had not the same motives of confidence, were by no means +so much at their ease, and when at night they saw the Indians leave us +earlier than usual, their suspicions of an intended attack were confirmed, +and they were very much alarmed. + +"The Indians approached us with apparent caution, and behaved with +more than usual reserve. Our two chiefs, by whom these circumstances +were not observed, now told us that they wished to return home; +that they could be no longer of any service to us; that they +could not understand the language of the people below the falls; +that those people formed a different nation from their own; +that the two people had been at war with each other; +and that as the Indians had expressed a resolution to attack us, +they would certainly kill them. We endeavored to quiet their fears, +and requested them to stay two nights longer, in which time we would +see the Indians below, and make a peace between the two nations. +They replied that they were anxious to return and see their horses. +We however insisted on their remaining with us, not only in hopes +of bringing about an accommodation between them and their enemies, +but because they might be able to detect any hostile designs +against us, and also assist us in passing the next falls, +which are not far off, and represented as very difficult. +They at length agreed to stay with us two nights longer." + +The explorers now arrived at the next fall of the Columbia. Here was +a quiet basin, on the margin of which were three Indian huts. +The journal tells the rest of the story:-- + +"At the extremity of this basin stood a high black rock, which, rising +perpendicularly from the right shore, seemed to run wholly across the river: +so totally, indeed, did it appear to stop the passage, that we +could not see where the water escaped, except that the current was +seemingly drawn with more than usual velocity to the left of the rock, +where was heard a great roaring. We landed at the huts of the Indians, +who went with us to the top of the rock, from which we had a view +of all the difficulties of the channel. We were now no longer at a loss +to account for the rising of the river at the falls; for this tremendous +rock was seen stretching across the river, to meet the high hills +on the left shore, leaving a channel of only forty-five yards wide, +through which the whole body of the Columbia pressed its way. +The water, thus forced into so narrow a passage, was thrown into whirls, +and swelled and boiled in every part with the wildest agitation. +But the alternative of carrying the boats over this high rock was +almost impossible in our present situation; and as the chief danger +seemed to be, not from any obstructions in the channel, but from +the great waves and whirlpools, we resolved to attempt the passage, +in the hope of being able, by dexterous steering, to descend in safety. +This we undertook, and with great care were able to get through, +to the astonishment of the Indians in the huts we had just passed, +who now collected to see us from the top of the rock. The channel continued +thus confined for the space of about half a mile, when the rock ceased. +We passed a single Indian hut at the foot of it, where the river +again enlarges to the width of two hundred yards, and at the distance +of a mile and a half stopped to view a very bad rapid; this is formed +by two rocky islands which divide the channel, the lower and larger +of which is in the middle of the river. The appearance of this place +was so unpromising that we unloaded all the most valuable articles, +such as guns, ammunition, our papers,. etc., and sent them by land, +with all the men that could not swim, to the extremity of these rapids. +We then descended with the canoes, two at a time; though the canoes +took in some water, we all went through safely; after which we made +two miles, stopped in a deep bend of the river toward the right, +and camped a little above a large village of twenty-one houses. +Here we landed; and as it was late before all the canoes joined us, +we were obliged to remain this evening, the difficulties of the navigation +having permitted us to make only six miles." + +They were then among the Echeloots, a tribe of the Upper Chinooks, +now nearly extinct. The white men were much interested in the houses +of these people, which, their journal set forth, were "the +first wooden buildings seen since leaving the Illinois country." +This is the manner of their construction:-- + +"A large hole, twenty feet wide and thirty in length, was dug +to the depth of six feet; the sides of which were lined with split +pieces of timber rising just above the surface of the ground, +and smoothed to the same width by burning, or by being shaved +with small iron axes. These timbers were secured in their erect +position by a pole stretched along the side of the building near +the eaves, and supported on a strong post fixed at each corner. +The timbers at the gable ends rose gradually higher, the middle pieces +being the broadest. At the top of these was a sort of semicircle, +made to receive a ridge-pole the whole length of the house, propped by +an additional post in the middle, and forming the top of the roof. +From this ridge-pole to the eaves of the house were placed a number +of small poles or rafters, secured at each end by fibres of the cedar. +On these poles, which were connected by small transverse bars of wood, +was laid a covering of white cedar, or arbor vitae, kept on by +strands of cedar fibres; but a small space along the whole length +of the ridge-pole was left uncovered, for the purpose of light, +and of permitting the smoke to pass out. The roof, thus formed, +had a descent about equal to that common among us, and near the eaves +it was perforated with a number of small holes, made, most probably, +for the discharge of arrows in case of an attack. The only entrance +was by a small door at the gable end, cut out of the middle piece +of timber, twenty-nine and a half inches high, fourteen inches broad, +and reaching only eighteen inches above the earth. Before this hole +is hung a mat; on pushing it aside and crawling through, the descent +is by a small wooden ladder, made in the form of those used among us. +One-half of the inside is used as a place of deposit for dried fish, +of which large quantities are stored away, and with a few baskets +of berries form the only family provisions; the other half, +adjoining the door, remains for the accommodation of the family. +On each side are arranged near the walls small beds of mats placed on +little scaffolds or bedsteads, raised from eighteen inches to three feet +from the ground; and in the middle of the vacant space is the fire, +or sometimes two or three fires, when, as is usually the case, +the house contains three families." + +Houses very like these are built by the Ahts or Nootkas, a tribe of +Indians inhabiting parts of Vancouver Island and the adjacent mainland. +A Nootka calls his house an ourt. + +The good offices of Lewis and Clark, who were always ready to make +peace between hostile tribes, were again successful here. +The Echeloots received the white men with much kindness, invited them +to their houses, and returned their visits after the explorers had camped. +Lewis and Clark told the Echeloot chiefs that the war was destroying +them and their industries, bringing want and privation upon them. +The Indians listened with attention to what was said, and after +some talk they agreed to make peace with their ancient enemies. +Impressed with the sincerity of this agreement, the captains +of the expedition invested the principal chief with a medal +and some small articles of clothing. The two faithful chiefs +who had accompanied the white men from the headwaters of the streams +now bade farewell to their friends and allies, the explorers. +They bought horses of the Echeloots and returned to their distant +homes by land. + +Game here became more abundant, and on the twenty-sixth of October +the journal records the fact that they received from the Indians +a present of deer-meat, and on that day their hunters found plenty +of tracks of elk and deer in the mountains, and they brought +in five deer, four very large gray squirrels, and a grouse. +Besides these delicacies, one of the men killed in the river +a salmon-trout which was fried in bear's oil and, according to +the journal, "furnished a dish of a very delightful flavor," +doubtless a pleasing change from the diet of dog's flesh +with which they had so recently been regaled. + +Two of the Echeloot chiefs remained with the white men to guide them +on their way down the river. These were joined by seven others +of their tribe, to whom the explorers were kind and attentive. +But the visitors could not resist the temptation to pilfer from the goods +exposed to dry in the sun. Being checked in this sly business, +they became ill-humored and returned, angry, down the river. + +The explorers noticed here that the Indians flattened the heads +of males as well as females. Higher up the river, only the women +and female children had flat heads. The custom of artificially +flattening the heads of both men and women, in infancy, +was formerly practised by nearly all the tribes of the Chinook family +along the Columbia River. Various means are used to accomplish +this purpose, the most common and most cruel being to bind a flat +board on the forehead of an infant in such a way that it presses +on the skull and forces the forehead up on to the top of the head. +As a man whose head has been flattened in infancy grows older, +the deformity partly disappears; but the flatness of the head +is always regarded as a tribal badge of great merit. + +"On the morning of the twenty-eighth," says the journal, having dried +our goods, we were about setting out, when three canoes came from above +to visit us, and at the same time two others from below arrived for the +same purpose. Among these last was an Indian who wore his hair in a que, +and had on a round hat and a sailor's jacket, which he said he had obtained +from the people below the great rapids, who bought them from the whites. +This interview detained us till nine o'clock, when we proceeded down +the river, which is now bordered with cliffs of loose dark colored rocks +about ninety feet high, with a thin covering of pines and other small trees. +At the distance of four miles we reached a small village of eight houses +under some high rocks on the right with a small creek on the opposite side +of the river. + +"We landed and found the houses similar to those we had seen at the +great narrows; on entering one of them we saw a British musket, a cutlass, +and several brass tea-kettles, of which they seemed to be very fond. +There were figures of men, birds, and different animals, which were cut +and painted on the boards which form the sides of the room; though the +workmanship of these uncouth figures was very rough, they were highly +esteemed by the Indians as the finest frescos of more civilized people. +This tribe is called the Chilluckittequaw; their language, though somewhat +different from that of the Echeloots, has many of the same words, +and is sufficiently intelligible to the neighboring Indians. We procured +from them a vocabulary, and then, after buying five small dogs, +some dried berries, and a white bread or cake made of roots, we left them. +The wind, however, rose so high that we were obliged, after going one mile, +to land on the left side, opposite a rocky island, and pass the day." + +On the same day the white chiefs visited one of the most prominent +of the native houses built along the river. + +"This," says the journal, "was the residence of the principal chief +of the Chilluckittequaw nation, who we found was the same between whom +and our two chiefs we had made a peace at the Echeloot village. +He received us, very kindly, and set before us pounded fish, +filberts, nuts, the berries of the sacacommis, and white bread +made of roots. We gave, in return, a bracelet of ribbon to each +of the women of the house, with which they were very much pleased. +The chief had several articles, such as scarlet and blue cloth, a sword, +a jacket, and a hat, which must have been procured from the whites, +and on one side of the room were two wide, split boards, placed together +so as to make space for a rude figure of a man cut and painted on them. +On pointing to this, and asking him what it meant, he said something, +of which all that we understood was `good,' and then stepped up +to the painting, and took out his bow and quiver, which, with some +other warlike instruments, were kept behind it. + +"He then directed his wife to hand him his medicine-bag, from which he drew +out fourteen forefingers, which he told us had belonged to the same +number of his enemies, whom he had killed in fighting with the nations +to the southeast, in which direction he pointed; alluding, no doubt, +to the Snake Indians, the common enemy of the tribes on the Columbia. +This bag is usually about two feet in length, and contains roots, +pounded dirt, etc., which only the Indians know how to appreciate. +It is suspended in the middle of the lodge; and it is considered +as a species of sacrilege for any one but the owner to touch it. +It is an object of religious fear; and, from its supposed sanctity, +is the chief place for depositing their medals and more valuable articles. +They have likewise small bags, which they preserve in their great +medicine-bag, from whence they are taken, and worn around their +waists and necks as amulets against any real or imaginary evils. +This was the first time we had been apprised that the Indians +ever carried from the field any other trophy than the scalp. +These fingers were shown with great exultation; and, after an harangue, +which we were left to presume was in praise of his exploits, +the chief carefully replaced them among the valuable contents +of his red medicine-bag. The inhabitants of this village being part +of the same nation with those of the village we had passed above, +the language of the two was the same, and their houses were of similar +form and materials, and calculated to contain about thirty souls. +They were unusually hospitable and good-humored, so that we gave +to the place the name of the Friendly village. We breakfasted here; +and after purchasing twelve dogs, four sacks of fish, and a few +dried berries, proceeded on our journey. The hills as we passed +were high, with steep, rocky sides, with pine and white oak, +and an undergrowth of shrubs scattered over them." + +Leaving the Friendly village, the party went on their way down the river. +Four miles below they came to a small and rapid river which they called +the Cataract River, but which is now known as the Klikitat. The rapids +of the stream, according to the Indians, were so numerous that salmon could +not ascend it, and the Indians who lived along its banks subsisted on what +game they could kill with their bows and arrows and on the berries which, +in certain seasons, were plentiful. Again we notice the purchase of dogs; +this time only four were bought, and the party proceeded on their way. +That night, having travelled thirty-two miles, they camped on the right +bank of the river in what is now Skamania County, Washington. Three huts +were inhabited by a considerable number of Indians, of whom the journal +has this to say:-- + +"On our first arrival they seemed surprised, but not alarmed, +and we soon became intimate by means of smoking and our favorite +entertainment for the Indians, the violin. They gave us fruit, +roots, and root-bread, and we purchased from them three dogs. +The houses of these people are similar to those of the Indians above, +and their language is the same; their dress also, consisting of robes +or skins of wolves, deer, elk, and wildcat, is made nearly after +the same model; their hair is worn in plaits down each shoulder, +and round their neck is put a strip of some skin with the tail +of the animal hanging down over the breast; like the Indians above, +they are fond of otter-skins, and give a great price for them. +We here saw the skin of a mountain sheep, which they say lives among +the rocks in the mountains; the skin was covered with white hair; +the wool was long, thick, and coarse, with long coarse hair on the top +of the neck and on the back, resembling somewhat the bristles of a goat. +Immediately behind the village is a pond, in which were great numbers +of small swan." + +The "mountain sheep" mentioned here are not the bighorn of which we have +heard something in the earlier part of this narrative, but a species of wild +goat found among the Cascade Mountains. The "wildcat" above referred to is +probably that variety of lynx known in Canada and most of the Northern States +and the Pacific as the loup-cervier, or vulgarly, the "lucifee." + +On the last day of October, the next of the more difficult rapids +being near, Captain Clark went ahead to examine the "shoot," +as the explorers called the place which we know as the chute. +In the thick wood that bordered the river he found an ancient +burial-place which he thus describes:-- + +"It consists of eight vaults made of pine or cedar boards +closely connected, about eight feet square and six in height; +the top covered with wide boards sloping a little, so as to convey +off the rain. The direction of all of these vaults is east and west, +the door being on the eastern side, partially stopped with wide +boards decorated with rude pictures of men and other animals. +On entering he found in some of them four dead bodies, carefully wrapped +in skins, tied with cords of grass and bark, lying on a mat, +in a direction east and west. The other vaults contained only bones, +which were in some of them piled to the height of four feet. +On the tops of the vaults, and on poles attached to them, +bung brass kettles and frying-pans with holes in their bottoms, +baskets, bowls, sea-shells, skins, pieces of cloth, hair, bags of +trinkets and small bones--the offerings of friendship or affection, +which have been saved by a pious veneration from the ferocity +of war, or the more dangerous temptations of individual gain. +The whole of the walls as well as the door were decorated with strange +figures cut and painted on them; and besides were several wooden +images of men, some so old and decayed as to have almost lost +their shape, which were all placed against the sides of the vaults. +These images, as well as those in the houses we have lately seen, +do not appear to be at all the objects of adoration; in this place +they were most probably intended as resemblances of those whose +decease they indicate; when we observe them in houses, they occupy +the most conspicuous part, but are treated more like ornaments +than objects of worship." + +The white men were visited at their camp by many Indians from the villages +farther up the stream. The journal says:-- + +"We had an opportunity of seeing to-day the hardihood of the Indians +of the neighboring village. One of the men shot a goose, +which fell into the river and was floating rapidly toward +the great shoot, when an Indian observing it plunged in after it. +The whole mass of the waters of the Columbia, just preparing to descend +its narrow channel, carried the animal down with great rapidity. +The Indian followed it fearlessly to within one hundred and fifty feet +of the rocks, where he would inevitably have been dashed to pieces; +but seizing his prey he turned round and swam ashore with great composure. +We very willingly relinquished our right to the bird in favor of +the Indian who had thus saved it at the imminent hazard of his life; +he immediately set to work and picked off about half the feathers, +and then, without opening it, ran a stick through it and carried it +off to roast." + +With many hair's-breadth escapes, the expedition now passed +through the rapids or "great shoot." The river here is one hundred +and fifty yards wide and the rapids are confined to an area four +hundred yards long, crowded with islands and rocky ledges. +They found the Indians living along the banks of the stream +to be kindly disposed; but they had learned, by their intercourse +with tribes living below, to set a high value on their wares. +They asked high prices for anything they had for sale. +The journal says:-- + +"We cannot learn precisely the nature of the trade carried on +by the Indians with the inhabitants below. But as their knowledge +of the whites seems to be very imperfect, and as the only articles +which they carry to market, such as pounded fish, bear-grass, and roots, +cannot be an object of much foreign traffic, their intercourse +appears to be an intermediate trade with the natives near the mouth +of the Columbia. From them these people obtain, in exchange +for their fish, roots, and bear-grass, blue and white beads, +copper tea-kettles, brass armbands, some scarlet and blue robes, +and a few articles of old European clothing. But their great +object is to obtain beads, an article which holds the first place +in their ideas of relative value, and to procure which they will +sacrifice their last article of clothing or last mouthful of food. +Independently of their fondness for them as an ornament, these beads +are the medium of trade, by which they obtain from the Indians still +higher up the river, robes, skins, chappelel bread, bear-grass, etc. +Those Indians in turn employ them to procure from the Indians +in the Rocky Mountains, bear-grass, pachico-roots, robes, etc. + +"These Indians are rather below the common size, with high cheek-bones; +their noses are pierced, and in full dress ornamented with a +tapering piece of white shell or wampum about two inches long. +Their eyes are exceedingly sore and weak; many of them have +only a single eye, and some are perfectly blind. Their teeth +prematurely decay, and in frequent instances are altogether worn away. +Their general health, however, seems to be good, the only disorder +we have remarked being tumors in different parts of the body." + +The more difficult rapid was passed on the second day of November, the luggage +being sent down by land and the empty canoes taken down with great care. +The journal of that date says:-- + +"The rapid we have just passed is the last of all the descents +of the Columbia. At this place the first tidewater commences, +and the river in consequence widens immediately below the rapid. +As we descended we reached, at the distance of one mile from the rapid, +a creek under a bluff on the left; at three miles is the lower +point of Strawberry Island. To this immediately succeed three +small islands covered with wood. In the meadow to the right, +at some distance from the hills, stands a perpendicular rock about +eight hundred feet high and four hundred yards around the base. +This we called Beacon Rock. Just below is an Indian +village of nine houses, situated between two small creeks. +At this village the river widens to nearly a mile in extent; +the low grounds become wider, and they as well as the mountains +on each side are covered with pine, spruce-pine, cottonwood, +a species of ash, and some alder. After being so long accustomed +to the dreary nakedness of the country above, the change is as +grateful to the eye as it is useful in supplying us with fuel. +Four miles from the village is a point of land on the right, +where the hills become lower, but are still thickly timbered. +The river is now about two miles wide, the current smooth and gentle, +and the effect of the tide has been sensible since leaving the rapid. +Six miles lower is a rock rising from the middle of the river to +the height of one hundred feet, and about eighty yards at its base. +We continued six miles further, and halted for the night +under a high projecting rock on the left side of the river, +opposite the point of a large meadow. + +"The mountains, which, from the great shoot to this place, +are high, rugged, and thickly covered with timber, +chiefly of the pine species, here leave the river on each side; +the river becomes two and one-half miles in width; the low grounds +are extensive and well supplied with wood. The Indians whom +we left at the portage passed us on their way down the river, +and seven others, who were descending in a canoe for the purpose +of trading below, camped with us. We had made from the foot +of the great shoot twenty-nine miles to-day. The ebb tide rose +at our camp about nine inches; the flood must rise much higher. +We saw great numbers of water-fowl, such as swan, geese, ducks of +various kinds, gulls, plovers, and the white and gray brant, +of which last we killed eighteen." + + + +Chapter XVII + +From Tidewater to the Sea + +Near the mouth of the river which the explorers named Quicksand River +(now Sandy), they met a party of fifteen Indians who had lately been down +to the mouth of the Columbia. These people told the white men that they +had seen three vessels at anchor below, and, as these must needs be American, +or European, the far-voyaging explorers were naturally pleased. +When they had camped that night, they received other visitors of whom +the journal makes mention:-- + +"A canoe soon after arrived from the village at the foot of the last rapid, +with an Indian and his family, consisting of a wife, three children, +and a woman who had been taken prisoner from the Snake Indians, +living on a river from the south, which we afterward found to be +the Multnomah. Sacajawea was immediately introduced to her, in hopes that, +being a Snake Indian, they might understand each other; but their language +was not sufficiently intelligible to permit them to converse together. +The Indian had a gun with a brass barrel and cock, which he appeared +to value highly." + +The party had missed the Multnomah River in their way down, +although this is one of the three largest tributaries +of the Columbia, John Day's River and the Des Chutes being +the other two. A group of islands near the mouth of the +Multnomah hides it from the view of the passing voyager. +The stream is now more generally known as the Willamette, +or Wallamet. The large city of Portland, Oregon, is built +on the river, about twelve miles from its junction with +the Columbia. The Indian tribes along the banks of the Multnomah, +or Willamette, subsisted largely on the wappatoo, an eatable root, +about the size of a hen's egg and closely resembling a potato. +This root is much sought after by the Indians and is eagerly +bought by tribes living in regions where it is not to be found. +The party made great use of the wappatoo after they +had learned how well it served in place of bread. +They bought here all that the Indians could spare and then +made their way down the river to an open prairie where they +camped for dinner and found many signs of elk and deer. +The journal says:-- + +"When we landed for dinner, a number of Indians from the last +village came down for the purpose, as we supposed, of paying us +a friendly visit, as they had put on their favorite dresses. +In addition to their usual covering they had scarlet and +blue blankets, sailors' jackets and trousers, shirts and hats. +They had all of them either war-axes, spears, and bows and arrows, +or muskets and pistols, with tin powder-flasks. We smoked +with them and endeavored to show them every attention, but we +soon found them very assuming and disagreeable companions. +While we were eating, they stole the pipe with which they +were smoking, and the greatcoat of one of the men. +We immediately searched them all, and discovered the coat +stuffed under the root of a tree near where they were sitting; +but the pipe we could not recover. Finding us determined +not to suffer any imposition, and discontented with them, +they showed their displeasure in the only way which they dared, +by returning in an ill-humor to their village. + +"We then proceeded and soon met two canoes, with twelve men +of the same Skilloot nation, who were on their way from below. +The larger of the canoes was ornamented with the figure of a bear +in the bow and a man in the stern, both nearly as large as life, +both made of painted wood and very neatly fixed to the boat. +In the same canoe were two Indians, finely dressed and with round hats. +This circumstance induced us to give the name of Image-canoe +to the large island, the lower end of which we now passed at +the distance of nine miles from its head." + +Here they had their first full view of Mt. St. Helen's, sometimes +called Mt. Ranier. The peak is in Washington and is 9,750 feet high. +It has a sugar-loaf, or conical, shape and is usually covered with snow. +The narrative of the expedition continues as follows:-- + +"The Skilloots that we passed to-day speak a language somewhat +different from that of the Echeloots or Chilluckittequaws +near the long narrows. Their dress, however, is similar, +except that the Skilloots possess more articles procured from +the white traders; and there is this farther difference between them, +that the Skilloots, both males and females, have the head flattened. +Their principal food is fish, wappatoo roots, and some elk and deer, +in killing which with arrows they seem to be very expert; for during +the short time we remained at the village, three deer were brought in. +We also observed there a tame blaireau, [badger]." + +The journal, November 5, says:-- + +"Our choice of a camp had been very unfortunate; for on a sand-island +opposite us were immense numbers of geese, swan, ducks, and other +wild fowl, which during the whole night serenaded us with a +confusion of noises which completely prevented our sleeping. +During the latter part of the night it rained, and we therefore +willingly left camp at an early hour. We passed at three miles +a small prairie, where the river is only three-quarters of a mile +in width, and soon after two houses on the left, half a mile +distant from each other; from one of which three men came in a +canoe merely to look at us, and having done so returned home. +At eight miles we came to the lower point of an island, +separated from the right side by a narrow channel, on which, +a short distance above the end of the island, is situated +a large village. It is built more compactly than the generality +of the Indian villages, and the front has fourteen houses, +which are ranged for a quarter of a mile along the channel. +As soon as we were discovered seven canoes came out to see us, +and after some traffic, during which they seemed well disposed +and orderly, accompanied us a short distance below." + +The explorers now met Indians of a different nation from those whom +they had seen before. The journal says:-- + +"These people seem to be of a different nation from those we +have just passed; they are low in stature, ill shaped, and all +have their heads flattened. They call themselves Wahkiacum, +and their language differs from that of the tribes above, +with whom they trade for wappatoo-roots. The houses are built +in a different style, being raised entirely above ground, +with the caves about five feet high and the door at the corner. +Near the end, opposite this door, is a single fireplace, +round which are the beds, raised four feet from the floor of earth; +over the fire are hung the fresh fish, which, when dried, +are stowed away with the wappatoo-roots under the beds. +The dress of the men is like that of the people above, but the women +are clad in a peculiar manner, the robe not reaching lower than +the hip, and the body being covered in cold weather by a sort +of corset of fur, curiously plaited and reaching from the arms +to the hip; added to this is a sort of petticoat, or rather +tissue of white cedar bark, bruised or broken into small strands, +and woven into a girdle by several cords of the same material. +Being tied round the middle, these strands hang down as low +as the knee in front, and to the mid-leg behind; they are of +sufficient thickness to answer the purpose of concealment whilst +the female stands in an erect position, but in any other attitude +form but a very ineffectual defence. Sometimes the tissue +is strings of silk-grass, twisted and knotted at the end. +After remaining with them about an hour, we proceeded down the +channel with an Indian dressed in a sailor's jacket for our pilot, +and on reaching the main channel were visited by some Indians +who have a temporary residence on a marshy island in the middle +of the river, where is a great abundance of water-fowl." + +The tribe of Indians known as the Wahkiacums has entirely disappeared; +but the name survives as that of one of the counties of Washington +bordering on the Columbia. Wahkiacum is the county lying next west +of Cowlitz. When the explorers passed down the river under the piloting +of their Indian friend wearing a sailor's jacket, they were in a thick fog. +This cleared away and a sight greeted their joyful vision. +Their story says:-- + +"At a distance of twenty miles from our camp, we halted at a +village of Wahkiacums, consisting of seven ill-looking houses, +built in the same form with those above, and situated at the foot +of the high hills on the right, behind two small marshy islands. +We merely stopped to purchase some food and two beaver skins, +and then proceeded. Opposite to these islands the hills +on the left retire, and the river widens into a kind of bay, +crowded with low islands, subject to be overflowed occasionally +by the tide. We had not gone far from this village when, +the fog suddenly clearing away, we were at last presented +with the glorious sight of the ocean--that ocean, the object +of all our labors, the reward of all our anxieties. +This animating sight exhilarated the spirits of all the party, +who were still more delighted on hearing the distant roar +of the breakers. We went on with great cheerfulness along +the high, mountainous country which bordered the right bank: +the shore, however, was so bold and rocky, that we could not, +until at a distance of fourteen miles from the last village, +find any spot fit for an encampment. Having made during the day +thirty-four miles, we now spread our mats on the ground, and passed +the night in the rain. Here we were joined by our small canoe, +which had been separated from us during the fog this morning. +Two Indians from the last village also accompanied us +to the camp; but, having detected them in stealing a knife, +they were sent off." + +It is not very easy for us, who have lived comfortably at home, +or who have travelled only in luxurious railway-cars and +handsomely equipped steamers, to realize the joy and rapture +with which these far-wandering explorers hailed the sight +of the sea,--the sea to which they had so long been journeying, +through deserts, mountain-passes, and tangled wildernesses. +In his diary Captain Clark thus sets down some indication of his +joy on that memorable day, November 8, 1805: "Great joy in camp. +We are in view of the Ocean, this great Pacific Ocean which we +have been so long anxious to see, and the roaring or noise +made by the waves breaking on the rocky shores (as I suppose) +may be heard distinctly." Later, same day, he says, "Ocean in view! +O! the joy!" Fortunately, the hardships to be undergone on +the shores of the ocean were then unknown and undreamed of; +the travellers were thankful to see the sea, the goal of all +their hopes, the end of their long pilgrimage across the continent. + +That night they camped near the mouth of the river in what is now known +as Gray's Bay, on the north side of the river, in the southwest corner +of Wahkiacum County. Before they could reach their camping-place, the water +was so rough that some of the men had an unusual experience,--seasickness. +They passed a disagreeable night on a narrow, rocky bench of land. +Next day they say: + +"Fortunately for us, the tide did not rise as high as our camp +during the night; but being accompanied by high winds from +the south, the canoes, which we could not place beyond its reach, +were filled with water, and were saved with much difficulty. +Our position was very uncomfortable, but as it was impossible +to move from it, we waited for a change of weather. +It rained, however, during the whole day, and at two o'clock +in the afternoon the flood tide set in, accompanied by a high +wind from the south, which, about four o'clock, shifted to +the southwest and blew almost a gale directly from the sea. +The immense waves now broke over the place where we were camped; +the large trees, some of them five or six feet thick, +which had lodged at the point, were drifted over our camp, +and the utmost vigilance of every man could scarcely save our +canoes from being crushed to pieces. We remained in the water, +and drenched with rain, during the rest of the day, our only food +being some dried fish and some rain-water which we caught. +Yet, though wet and cold, and some of them sick from using salt water, +the men were cheerful, and full of anxiety to see more of the ocean. +The rain continued all night." + +This was the beginning of troubles. Next day, the wind having lulled, +the party set forth again, only to be beaten back and compelled to take +to the shore again. This was their experience for several days. +For example, under date of the eleventh the journal says:-- + +"The wind was still high from the southwest, and drove the waves +against the shore with great fury; the rain too fell in torrents, +and not only drenched us to the skin, but loosened the stones +on the hillsides, which then came rolling down upon us. +In this comfortless situation we remained all day, wet, cold, +with nothing but dried fish to satisfy our hunger; the canoes +in one place at the mercy of the waves, the baggage in another, +and all the men scattered on floating logs, or sheltering +themselves in the crevices of the rocks and hillsides. +A hunter was despatched in hopes of finding some fresh meat; +but the hills were so steep, and so covered with undergrowth +and fallen timber, that he could not penetrate them, and he was +forced to return." + +And this is the record for the next day:-- + +"About three o'clock a tremendous gale of wind arose accompanied +with lightning, thunder, and hail: at six it lightened up for a +short time, but a violent rain soon began, and lasted through the day. +During the storm, one of our boats, secured by being sunk with great +quantities of stone, got loose, but, drifting against a rock, +was recovered without having received much injury. Our situation +now became much more dangerous, for the waves were driven with fury +against the rocks and trees, which till now had afforded us refuge: +we therefore took advantage of the low tide, and moved about half a mile +round a point to a small brook, which we had not observed before on +account of the thick bushes and driftwood which concealed its mouth. +Here we were more safe, but still cold and wet; our clothes and bedding +rotten as well as wet, our baggage at a distance, and the canoes, +our only means of escape from this place, at the mercy of the waves. +Still, we continued to enjoy good health, and even had the luxury of feasting +on some salmon and three salmon trout which we caught in the brook. +Three of the men attempted to go round a point in our small Indian canoe, +but the high waves rendered her quite unmanageable, these boats requiring +the seamanship of the natives to make them live in so rough a sea." + +It should be borne in mind that the canoes of the explorers were poor +dug-outs, unfit to navigate the turbulent waters of the bay, and the men +were not so expert in that sort of seamanship as were the Indians whom they, +with envy, saw breasting the waves and making short voyages in the midst +of the storms. It continued to rain without any intermission, and the waves +dashed up among the floating logs of the camp in a very distracting manner. +The party now had nothing but dried fish to eat, and it was with great +difficulty that a fire could be built. On the fifteenth of the month, +Captain Lewis having found a better camping-place near a sandy beach, they +started to move their luggage thither; but before they could get under way, +a high wind from the southwest sprung up and they were forced to remain. +But the sun came out and they were enabled to dry their stuff, much of which +had been spoiled by the rain which had prevailed for the past ten days. +Their fish also was no longer fit to eat, and they were indeed in poor case. +Captain Lewis was out on a prospecting trip, and the party set out and found +a beach through which a pleasant brook flowed to the river, making a very good +camping-place. At the mouth of this stream was an ancient Chinook village, +which, says the journal, "has at present no inhabitants but fleas." +The adventurers were compelled to steer wide of all old Indian villages, +they were so infested with fleas. At times, so great was the pest, +the men were forced to take off all their clothing and soak themselves +and their garments in the river before they could be rid of the insects. +The site of their new camp was at the southeast end of Baker's Bay, +sometimes called Haley's Bay, a mile above a very high point of rocks. +On arriving at this place, the voyagers met with an unpleasant experience +of which the journal gives this account:-- + +"Here we met Shannon, who had been sent back to meet us +by Captain Lewis. The day Shannon left us in the canoe, +he and Willard proceeded till they met a party of twenty Indians, +who, having never heard of us, did not know where they [our +men] came from; they, however, behaved with so much civility, +and seemed so anxious that the men should go with them toward the sea, +that their suspicions were excited, and they declined going on. +The Indians, however, would not leave them; the men being confirmed +in their suspicions, and fearful that if they went into the woods +to sleep they would be cut to pieces in the night, thought it best +to pass the night in the midst of the Indians. They therefore +made a fire, and after talking with them to a late hour, laid down +with their rifles under their heads. As they awoke that morning +they found that the Indians had stolen and concealed their guns. +Having demanded them in vain, Shannon seized a club, and was about +assaulting one of the Indians, whom he suspected as a thief, when another +Indian began to load a fowling-piece with the intention of shooting him. +He therefore stopped, and explained by signs that if they did not +give up the guns a large party would come down the river before +the sun rose to such a height, and put every one of them to death. +Fortunately, Captain Lewis and his party appeared at this time. +The terrified Indians immediately brought the guns, and five of them +came on with Shannon. To these men we declared that if ever any one +of their nation stole anything from us, he should be instantly shot. +They reside to the north of this place, and speak a language +different from that of the people higher up the river. + +"It was now apparent that the sea was at all times too +rough for us to proceed further down the bay by water. +We therefore landed, and having chosen the best spot we could select, +made our camp of boards from the old [Chinook] village. +We were now situated comfortably, and being visited by four +Wahkiacums with wappatoo-roots, were enabled to make an agreeable +addition to our food." + +On the seventeenth Captain Lewis with a small party of his men +coasted the bay as far out as Cape Disappointment and some distance +to the north along the seacoast. Game was now plenty, and the camp +was supplied with ducks, geese, and venison. Bad weather again set in. +The journal under date of November 22 says:-- + +"It rained during the whole night, and about daylight a tremendous gale of +wind rose from the S.S.E., and continued through the day with great violence. +The sea ran so high that the water came into our camp, which the rain prevents +us from leaving. We purchased from the old squaw, for armbands and rings, +a few wappatoo-roots, on which we subsisted. They are nearly equal in +flavor to the Irish potato, and afford a very good substitute for bread. +The bad weather drove several Indians to our camp, but they were still +under the terrors of the threat which we made on first seeing them, +and behaved with the greatest decency. + +"The rain continued through the night, November 23, and the morning +was calm and cloudy. The hunters were sent out, and killed three deer, +four brant, and three ducks. Towards evening seven Clatsops came over +in a canoe, with two skins of the sea-otter. To this article they attached +an extravagant value; and their demands for it were so high, that we were +fearful it would too much reduce our small stock of merchandise, on which we +had to depend for subsistence on our return, to venture on purchasing it. +To ascertain, however, their ideas as to the value of different objects, +we offered for one of these skins a watch, a handkerchief, an American dollar, +and a bunch of red beads; but neither the curious mechanism of the watch, +nor even the red beads, could tempt the owner: he refused the offer, +but asked for tiacomoshack, or chief beads, the most common sort of coarse +blue-colored beads, the article beyond all price in their estimation. +Of these blue beads we had but few, and therefore reserved them for +more necessitous circumstances." + +The officers of the expedition had hoped and expected to find +here some of the trading ships that were occasionally sent along +the coast to barter with the natives; but none were to be found. +They were soon to prepare for winter-quarters, and they still +hoped that a trader might appear in the spring before they +set out on their homeward journey across the continent. +Very much they needed trinkets to deal with the natives +in exchange for, the needful articles of food on the route. +But (we may as well say here) no such relief ever appeared. +It is strange that President Jefferson, in the midst +of his very minute orders and preparations for the benefit +of the explorers, did not think of sending a relief ship +to meet the party at the mouth of the Columbia. They would +have been saved a world of care, worry, and discomfort. +But at that time the European nations who held possessions +on the Pacific coast were very suspicious of the Americans, +and possibly President Jefferson did not like to risk +rousing their animosity. + +The rain that now deluged the unhappy campers was so incessant that they +might well have thought that people should be web-footed to live in +such a watery region. In these later days, Oregon is sometimes known +as "The Web-foot State." Captain Clark, in his diary, November 28, +makes this entry: "O! how disagreeable is our situation dureing this +dreadfull weather!" The gallant captain's spelling was sometimes queer. +Under that date he adds:-- + +"We remained during the day in a situation the most cheerless +and uncomfortable. On this little neck of land we are exposed, +with a miserable covering which does not deserve the name +of a shelter, to the violence of the winds; all our bedding +and stores, as well as our bodies, are completely wet; +our clothes are rotting with constant exposure, and we +have no food except the dried fish brought from the falls, +to which we are again reduced. The hunters all returned hungry +and drenched with rain, having seen neither deer nor elk, +and the swan and brant were too shy to be approached. +At noon the wind shifted to the northwest, and blew with such +tremendous fury that many trees were blown down near us. +This gale lasted with short intervals during the whole night." + +Of course, in the midst of such violent storms, it was impossible +to get game, and the men were obliged to resort once more to a diet +of dried fish, This food caused much sickness in the camp, and it became +imperatively necessary that efforts should again be made to find game. +On the second of December, to their great joy an elk was killed, +and next day they had a feast. The journal says; + +"The wind was from the east and the morning fair; but, as if one whole +day of fine weather were not permitted, toward night it began to rain. +Even this transient glimpse of sunshine revived the spirits +of the party, who were still more pleased when the elk killed +yesterday was brought into camp. This was the first elk we had +killed on the west side of the Rocky Mountains, and condemned as we +have been to the dried fish, it formed a most nourishing food. +After eating the marrow of the shank-bones, the squaw chopped them fine, +and by boiling extracted a pint of grease, superior to the tallow +itself of the animal. A canoe of eight Indians, who were carrying +down wappatoo-roots to trade with the Clatsops, stopped at our camp; +we bought a few roots for small fish-hooks, and they then left us. +Accustomed as we were to the sight, we could not but view +with admiration the wonderful dexterity with which they guide +their canoes over the most boisterous seas; for though the waves +were so high that before they had gone half a mile the canoe +was several times out of sight, they proceeded with the greatest +calmness and security. Two of the hunters who set out yesterday +had lost their way, and did not return till this evening. +They had seen in their ramble great signs of elk and had killed six, +which they had butchered and left at a great distance. +A party was sent in the morning." + +On the third of December Captain Clark carved on the trunk of a great pine +tree this inscription:-- + + "WM. CLARK DECEMBER 3D 1805 BY LAND FROM THE + U. STATES IN 1804 & 5." + + +A few days later, Captain Lewis took with him a small party and set +out to find a suitable spot on which to build their winter camp. +He did not return as soon as he was expected, and considerable +uneasiness was felt in camp on that account. But he came in safely. +He brought good news; they had discovered a river on the south side +of the Columbia, not far from their present encampment, where there +were an abundance of elk and a favorable place for a winter camp. +Bad weather detained them until the seventh of December, when a +favorable change enabled them to proceed. They made their way slowly +and very cautiously down-stream, the tide being against them. +The narrative proceeds:-- + +"We at length turned a point, and found ourselves in a deep bay: +here we landed for breakfast, and were joined by the party sent out +three days ago to look for the six elk, killed by the Lewis party. +They had lost their way for a day and a half, and when they +at last reached the place, found the elk so much spoiled +that they brought away nothing but the skins of four of them. +After breakfast we coasted round the bay, which is about four +miles across, and receives, besides several small creeks, two rivers, +called by the Indians, the one Kilhowanakel, the other Netul. We named +it Meriwether's Bay, from the Christian name of Captain Lewis, +who was, no doubt, the first white man who had surveyed it. +The wind was high from the northeast, and in the middle +of the day it rained for two hours, and then cleared off. +On reaching the south side of the bay we ascended the Netul +three miles, to the first point of high land on its western bank, +and formed our camp in a thick grove of lofty pines, about two +hundred yards from the water, and thirty feet above the level +of the high tides." + + + +Chapter XVIII + +Camping by the Pacific + +Next in importance to the building of a winter camp was the fixing +of a place where salt could be made. Salt is absolutely +necessary for the comfort of man, and the supply brought out from +the United States by the explorers was now nearly all gone. +They were provided with kettles in which sea-water could be boiled +down and salt be made. It would be needful to go to work at once, +for the process of salt-making by boiling in ordinary kettles is +slow and tedious; not only must enough for present uses be found, +but a supply to last the party home again was necessary. +Accordingly, on the eighth of December the journal has this entry +to show what was to be done:-- + +"In order, therefore, to find a place for making salt, and to examine +the country further, Captain Clark set out with five men, and pursuing +a course S. 60'0 W., over a dividing ridge through thick pine timber, +much of which bad fallen, passed the beads of two small brooks. +In the neighborhood of these the land was swampy and overflowed, +and they waded knee-deep till they came to an open ridgy prairie, +covered with the plant known on our frontier by the name of sacacommis +[bearberry]. Here is a creek about sixty yards wide and running toward +Point Adams; they passed it on a small raft. At this place they +discovered a large herd of elk, and after pursuing them for three miles +over bad swamps and small ponds, killed one of them. The agility +with which the elk crossed the swamps and bogs seems almost incredible; +as we followed their track the ground for a whole acre would shake at +our tread and sometimes we sunk to our hips without finding any bottom. +Over the surface of these bogs is a species of moss, among which are +great numbers of cranberries; and occasionally there rise from the swamp +small steep knobs of earth, thickly covered with pine and laurel. +On one of these we halted at night, but it was scarcely large enough +to suffer us to lie clear of the water, and had very little dry wood. +We succeeded, however, in collecting enough to make a fire; and having +stretched the elk-skin to keep off the rain, which still continued, +slept till morning." + +Next day the party were met by three Indians who had been fishing +for salmon, of which they had a goodly supply, and were now on their way +home to their village on the seacoast. They, invited Captain Clark +and his men to accompany them; and the white men accepted the invitation. +These were Clatsops. Their village consisted of twelve families living in +houses of split pine boards, the lower half of the house being underground. +By a small ladder in the middle of the house-front, the visitors +reached the floor, which was about four feet below the surface. +Two fires were burning in the middle of the room upon the earthen floor. +The beds were ranged around the room next to the wall, with spaces +beneath them for bags, baskets, and household articles. + +Captain Clark was received with much attention, clean mats were spread +for him, and a repast of fish, roots, and berries was set before him. +He noticed that the Clatsops were well dressed and clean, and that they +frequently washed their faces and hands, a ceremony, he remarked, that is +by no means frequent among other Indians. A high wind now prevailed, +and as the evening was stormy, Captain Clark resolved to stay all night +with his hospitable Clatsops. The narrative proceeds:-- + +"The men of the village now collected and began to gamble. +The most common game was one in which one of the company was banker, +and played against all the rest. He had a piece of bone, +about the size of a large bean, and having agreed with any individual +as to the value of the stake, would pass the bone from one hand +to the other with great dexterity, singing at the same time to divert +the attention of his adversary; then holding it in his hands, +his antagonist was challenged to guess in which of them the bone was, +and lost or won as he pointed to the right or wrong hand. +To this game of hazard they abandoned themselves with great ardor; +sometimes everything they possess is sacrificed to it; and this evening +several of the Indians lost all the beads which they had with them. +This lasted for three hours; when, Captain Clark appearing disposed +to sleep, the man who had been most attentive, and whose name was Cuskalah, +spread two new mats near the fire, ordered his wife to retire to her +own bed, and the rest of the company dispersed at the same time. +Captain Clark then lay down, but the violence with which the fleas +attacked him did not leave his rest unbroken." + +Next morning, Captain Clark walked along the seashore, +and he observed that the Indians were walking up and down, +examining the shore and the margin of a creek that emptied here. +The narrative says:-- + +"He was at a loss to understand their object till one of +them came to him, and explained that they were in search +of any fish which might have been thrown on shore and left +by the tide, adding in English, `sturgeon is very good.' +There is, indeed, every reason to believe that these Clatsops +depend for their subsistence, during the winter, chiefly on +the fish thus casually thrown on the coast. After amusing himself +for some time on the beach, he returned towards the village, +and shot on his way two brant. As he came near the village, one of +the Indians asked him to shoot a duck about thirty steps distant: +he did so, and, having accidentally shot off its head, +the bird was brought to the village, when all the Indians came +round in astonishment. They examined the duck, the musket, +and the very small bullets, which were a hundred to the pound, +and then exclaimed, Clouch musque, waket, commatax musquet: +Good musket; do not understand this kind of musket. +They now placed before him their best roots, fish, and syrup, +after which he attempted to purchase a sea-otter skin +with some red beads which he happened to have about him; +but they declined trading, as they valued none except blue +or white beads. He therefore bought nothing but a little +berry-bread and a few roots, in exchange for fish-hooks, +and then set out to return by the same route he had come. +He was accompanied by Cuskalah and his brother as far as the +third creek, and then proceeded to the camp through a heavy rain. +The whole party had been occupied during his absence in cutting +down trees to make huts, and in hunting." + +This was the occupation of all hands for several days, +notwithstanding the discomfort of the continual downpour. +Many of the men were ill from the effects of sleeping and +living so constantly in water. Under date of December 12, +the journal has this entry:-- + +"We continued to work in the rain at our houses. In the evening there +arrived two canoes of Clatsops, among whom was a principal chief, +called Comowol. We gave him a medal and treated his companions with +great attention; after which we began to bargain for a small sea-otter skin, +some wappatoo-roots, and another species of root called shanataque. +We readily perceived that they were close dealers, stickled much for trifles, +and never closed the bargain until they thought they had the advantage. +The wappatoo is dear, as they themselves are obliged to give a high price +for it to the Indians above. Blue beads are the articles most in request; +the white occupy the next place in their estimation; but they do not value +much those of any other color. We succeeded at last in purchasing their +whole cargo for a few fish-hooks and a small sack of Indian tobacco, +which we had received from the Shoshonees." + +The winter camp was made up of seven huts, and, although it was +not so carefully fortified as was the fort in the Mandan country +(during the previous winter), it was so arranged that +intruders could be kept out when necessary. For the roofs +of these shelters they were provided with "shakes" split +out from a species of pine which they called "balsam pine," +and which gave them boards, or puncheons, or shakes, ten feet long +and two feet wide, and not more than an inch and a half thick. +By the sixteenth of December their meat-house was finished, +and their meat, so much of which had been spoiled for lack +of proper care, was cut up in small pieces and hung under cover. +They had been told by the Indians that very little snow +ever fell in that region, and the weather, although very, +very wet, was mild and usually free from frost. +They did have severe hailstorms and a few flurries of snow +in December but the rain was a continual cause of discomfort. +Of the trading habits of the Clatsops the journal has this to say:-- + +"Three Indians came in a canoe with mats, roots, and the berries +of the sacacommis. These people proceed with a dexterity +and finesse in their bargains which, if they have not learned +it from their foreign visitors, may show how nearly allied +is the cunning of savages to the little arts of traffic. +They begin by asking double or treble the value of what they +have to sell, and lower their demand in proportion to the greater +or less degree of ardor or knowledge of the purchaser, who, with all +his management, is not able to procure the article for less +than its real value, which the Indians perfectly understand. +Our chief medium of trade consists of blue and white beads, files,-- +with which they sharpen their tools,--fish-hooks, and tobacco; +but of all these articles blue beads and tobacco are +the most esteemed." + +But, although their surroundings were not of a sort to make one very jolly, +when Christmas came they observed the day as well as they could. +Here is what the journal says of the holiday:-- + +"We were awaked at daylight by a discharge of firearms, +which was followed by a song from the men, as a compliment +to us on the return of Christmas, which we have always +been accustomed to observe as a day of rejoicing. +After breakfast we divided our remaining stock of tobacco, +which amounted to twelve carrots [hands], into two parts; +one of which we distributed among such of the party as make +use of it, making a present of a handkerchief to the others. +The remainder of the day was passed in good spirits, +though there was nothing in our situation to excite much gayety. +The rain confined us to the house, and our only luxuries +in honor of the season were some poor elk, so much spoiled +that we ate it through sheer necessity, a few roots, and some +spoiled pounded fish. + +"The next day brought a continuation of rain, accompanied with thunder, +and a high wind from the southeast. We were therefore obliged to still +remain in our huts, and endeavored to dry our wet articles before the fire. +The fleas, which annoyed us near the portage of the Great Falls, +have taken such possession of our clothes that we are obliged to +have a regular search every day through our blankets as a necessary +preliminary to sleeping at night. These animals, indeed, are so numerous +that they are almost a calamity to the Indians of this country. +When they have once obtained the mastery of any house it is impossible +to expel them, and the Indians have frequently different houses, +to which they resort occasionally when the fleas have rendered their +permanent residence intolerable; yet, in spite of these precautions, +every Indian is constantly attended by multitudes of them, +and no one comes into our house without leaving behind him swarms +of these tormenting insects." + +Although the condition of the exploring party was low, +the men did not require very much to put them in good spirits. +The important and happy event of finishing their fort and +the noting of good weather are thus set forth in the journal +under date of December 30:-- + +"Toward evening the hunters brought in four elk [which Drewyer had +killed], and after a long course of abstinence and miserable diet, +we had a most sumptuous supper of elk's tongues and marrow. +Besides this agreeable repast, the state of the weather was +quite exhilarating. It had rained during the night, but in the morning, +though the high wind continued, we enjoyed the fairest and most +pleasant weather since our arrival; the sun having shone at intervals, +and there being only three showers in the course of the day. +By sunset we had completed the fortification, and now announced +to the Indians that every day at that hour the gates would be closed, +and they must leave the fort and not enter it till sunrise. +The Wahkiacums who remained with us, and who were very forward +in their deportment, complied very reluctantly with this order; +but, being excluded from our houses, formed a camp near us. +. . . . . . . . . + +"January 1, 1806. We were awaked at an early hour by the +discharge of a volley of small arms, to salute the new year. +This was the only mode of commemorating the day which our +situation permitted; for, though we had reason to be gayer than we +were at Christmas, our only dainties were boiled elk and wappatoo, +enlivened by draughts of pure water. We were visited by a few Clatsops, +who came by water, bringing roots and berries for sale. +Among this nation we observed a man about twenty-five years old, +of a much lighter complexion than the Indians generally: his face was +even freckled, and his hair long, and of a colour inclining to red. +He was in habits and manners perfectly Indian; but, though he did +not speak a word of English, he seemed to understand more than +the others of his party; and, as we could obtain no account +of his origin, we concluded that one of his parents, at least, +must have been white." + +A novel addition to their bill of fare was fresh blubber, or fat, +from a stranded whale. Under date of January 3 the journal says:-- + +"At eleven o'clock we were visited by our neighbor, the Tia or chief, +Comowool, who is also called Coone, and six Clatsops. Besides roots +and berries, they brought for sale three dogs, and some fresh blubber. +Having been so long accustomed to live on the flesh of dogs, the greater +part of us have acquired a fondness for it, and our original aversion +for it is overcome, by reflecting that while we subsisted on that food +we were fatter, stronger, and in general enjoyed better health than at +any period since leaving the buffalo country, eastward of the mountains. +The blubber, which is esteemed by the Indians an excellent food, +has been obtained, they tell us, from their neighbors, the Killamucks, +a nation who live on the seacoast to the southeast, near one of whose +villages a whale had recently been thrown and foundered." + +Five men had been sent out to form a camp on the seashore and go +into the manufacture of salt as expeditiously as possible. +On the fifth of January, two of them came into the fort +bringing a gallon of salt, which was decided to be "white, fine +and very good," and a very agreeable addition to their food, +which had been eaten perfectly fresh for some weeks past. +Captain Clark, however, said it was a "mere matter of indifference" +to him whether he had salt or not, but he hankered for bread. +Captain Lewis, on the other hand, said the lack of salt was +a great inconvenience; "the want of bread I consider trivial," +was his dictum. It was estimated that the salt-makers could turn +out three or four quarts a day, and there was good prospect of an +abundant supply for present needs and for the homeward journey. +An expedition to the seashore was now planned, and the journal +goes on to tell how they set out:-- + +"The appearance of the whale seemed to be a matter of importance to all +the neighboring Indians, and as we might be able to procure some of it +for ourselves, or at least purchase blubber from the Indians, a small parcel +of merchandise was prepared, and a party of the men held in readiness to set +out in the morning. As soon as this resolution was known, Chaboneau and +his wife requested that they might be permitted to accompany us. +The poor woman stated very earnestly that she had travelled a great way +with us to see the great water, yet she had never been down to the coast, +and now that this monstrous fish was also to be seen, it seemed hard +that she should be permitted to see neither the ocean nor the whale. +So reasonable a request could not be denied; they were therefore suffered +to accompany Captain Clark, who, January 6th, after an early breakfast, +set out with twelve men in two canoes." + +After a long and tedious trip, the camp of the saltmakers was reached, +and Captain Clark and his men went on to the remains of the whale, +only the skeleton being left by the rapacious and hungry Indians. The whale +had been stranded between two shore villages tenanted by the Killamucks, +as Captain Clark called them. They are now known as the Tillamook Indians, +and their name is preserved in Tillamook County, Oregon. The white +men found it difficult to secure much of the blubber, or the oil. +Although the Indians had large quantities of both, they sold it +with much reluctance. In Clark's private diary is found this entry: +"Small as this stock [of oil and lubber] is I prize it highly; +and thank Providence for directing the whale to us; and think him +more kind to us than he was to Jonah, having sent this monster +to be swallowed by us instead of swallowing us as Jonah's did." +While here, the party had a startling experience, as the journal says:-- + +"Whilst smoking with the Indians, Captain Clark was surprised, +about ten o'clock, by a loud, shrill outcry from the opposite village, +on hearing which all the Indians immediately started up to cross +the creek, and the guide informed him that someone had been killed. +On examination one of the men [M'Neal] was discovered to be absent, +and a guard [Sergeant Pryor and four men] despatched, who met him +crossing the creek in great haste. An Indian belonging to another band, +who happened to be with the Killamucks that evening, had treated +him with much kindness, and walked arm in arm with him to a tent +where our man found a Chinnook squaw, who was an old acquaintance. +From the conversation and manner of the stranger, this woman +discovered that his object was to murder the white man for the sake +of the few articles on his person; when he rose and pressed our man +to go to another tent where they would find something better to eat, +she held M'Neal by the blanket; not knowing her object, he freed +himself from her, and was going on with his pretended friend, +when she ran out and gave the shriek which brought the men +of the village over, and the stranger ran off before M'Neal knew +what had occasioned the alarm." + +The "mighty hunter" of the Lewis and Clark expedition was Drewyer, +whose name has frequently been mentioned in these pages. +Under date of January 12, the journal has this just tribute +to the man:-- + +"Our meat is now becoming scarce; we therefore determined to jerk it, +and issue it in small quantities, instead of dividing it among +the four messes, and leaving to each the care of its own provisions; +a plan by which much is lost, in consequence of the improvidence of the men. +Two hunters had been despatched in the morning, and one of them, Drewyer, +had before evening killed seven elk. We should scarcely be able +to subsist, were it not for the exertions of this most excellent hunter. +The game is scarce, and nothing is now to be seen except elk, which for +almost all the men are very difficult to be procured; but Drewyer, +who is the offspring of a Canadian Frenchman and an Indian woman, +has passed his life in the woods, and unites, in a wonderful degree, +the dexterous aim of the frontier huntsman with the intuitive sagacity +of the Indian, in pursuing the faintest tracks through the forest. +All our men, however, have indeed become so expert with the rifle +that we are never under apprehensions as to food; since, whenever there +is game of any kind, we are almost certain of procuring it." + +The narrative of the explorers gives this account of the Chinooks:-- + +"The men are low in stature, rather ugly, and ill made; their legs being small +and crooked, their feet large, and their heads, like those of the women, +flattened in a most disgusting manner. These deformities are in part +concealed by robes made of sea-otter, deer, elk, beaver or fox skins. +They also employ in their dress robes of the skin of a cat peculiar +to this country, and of another animal of the same size, which is light +and durable, and sold at a high price by the Indians who bring it from above. +In addition to these are worn blankets, wrappers of red, blue, or spotted +cloth, and some old sailors' clothes, which are very highly prized. +The greater part of the men have guns, with powder and ball. + +"The women have in general handsome faces, but are low and disproportioned, +with small feet and large legs, occasioned, probably, by strands of beads, +or various strings, drawn so tight above the ankles as to prevent +the circulation of the blood. Their dress, like that of the Wahkiacums, +consists of a short robe and a tissue of cedar bark. Their hair hangs +loosely down the shoulders and back; and their ears, neck, and wrists +are ornamented with blue beads. Another decoration, which is very +highly prized, consists of figures made by puncturing the arms or legs; +and on the arms of one of the squaws we observed the name of J. Bowman, +executed in the same way. In language, habits, and in almost every +other particular, they resemble the Clatsops, Cathlamahs, and, indeed, +all the people near the mouth of the Columbia, though they appeared +to be inferior to their neighbors in honesty as well as spirit. +No ill treatment or indignity on our part seemed to excite any feeling +except fear; nor, although better provided than their neighbors with arms, +have they enterprise enough either to use them advantageously against +the animals of the forest, or offensively against the tribes near them, +who owe their safety more to the timidity than the forbearance +of the Chinooks. We had heard instances of pilfering while we +were among them, and therefore gave a general order excluding them +from our encampment, so that whenever an Indian wished to visit us, +he began by calling out `No Chinook.' It is not improbable that this +first impression may have left a prejudice against them, since, when we +were among the Clatsops and other tribes at the mouth of the Columbia, +they had less opportunity of stealing, if they were so disposed." + +The weeks remaining before the party set out on their return were passed +without notable incident. The journal is chiefly occupied with comments +on the weather, which was variable, and some account of the manners +and customs of the Indian tribes along the Columbia River. At that time, +so few traders had penetrated the wilds of the Lower Columbia that +the Indians were not supplied with firearms to any great extent. +Their main reliance was the bow and arrow. A few shotguns were seen +among them, but no rifles, and great was the admiration and wonder with which +the Indians saw the white men slay birds and animals at a long distance. +Pitfalls for elk were constructed by the side of fallen trees over which +the animals might leap. Concerning the manufactures of the Clatsops, +they reported as follows:-- + +"Their hats are made of cedar-bark and bear-grass, interwoven +together in the form of a European hat, with a small brim of about +two inches, and a high crown widening upward. They are light, +ornamented with various colors and figures, and being nearly +water-proof, are much more durable than either chip or straw hats. +These hats form a small article of traffic with the whites, +and their manufacture is one of the best exertions of Indian industry. +They are, however, very dexterous in making a variety of domestic utensils, +among which are bowls, spoons, scewers [skewers], spits, and baskets. +The bowl or trough is of different shapes--round, semicircular, +in the form of a canoe, or cubic, and generally dug out of a +single piece of wood; the larger vessels have holes in the sides +by way of handles, and all are executed with great neatness. +In these vessels they boil their food, by throwing hot stones into +the water, and extract oil from different animals in the same way. +Spoons are not very abundant, nor is there anything remarkable +in their shape, except that they are large and the bowl broad. +Meat is roasted on one end of a sharp skewer, placed erect before +the fire, with the other end fixed in the ground. + +"But the most curious workmanship is that of the basket. +It is formed of cedar-bark and bear-grass, so closely interwoven +that it is water-tight, without the aid of either gum or resin. +The form is generally conic, or rather the segment [frustum] +of a cone, of which the smaller end is the bottom of the basket; +and being made of all sizes, from that of the smallest cup +to the capacity of five or six gallons, they answer the double +purpose of a covering for the head or to contain water. +Some of them are highly ornamented with strands of bear-grass, +woven into figures of various colors, which require great labor; +yet they are made very expeditiously and sold for a trifle. +It is for the construction of these baskets that the bear-grass +forms an article of considerable traffic. It grows only +near the snowy region of the high mountains; the blade, +which is two feet long and about three-eighths of an inch wide, +is smooth, strong, and pliant; the young blades particularly, +from their not being exposed to the sun and air, have an appearance +of great neatness, and are generally preferred. Other bags +and baskets, not waterproof, are made of cedar-bark, silk-grass, +rushes, flags, and common coarse sedge, for the use of families. +In these manufactures, as in the ordinary work of the house, +the instrument most in use is a knife, or rather a dagger. +The handle of it is small, and has a strong loop of twine +for the thumb, to prevent its being wrested from the band. +On each side is a blade, double-edged and pointed; the longer +from nine to ten inches, the shorter from four to five. +This knife is carried habitually in the hand, sometimes exposed, +but mostly, when in company with strangers, is put under the robe." + +Naturally, all of the Columbia River Indians were found +to be expert in the building and handling of canoes. +Here their greatest skill was employed. And, it may be added, +the Indians of the North Pacific coast to-day are equally +adept and skilful. The canoes of the present race of red +men do not essentially differ from those of the tribes +described by Lewis and Clark, and who are now extinct. +The Indians then living above tide-water built canoes of smaller +size than those employed by the nations farther down the river. +The canoes of the Tillamooks and other tribes living on the seacoast +were upwards of fifty feet long, and would carry eight or ten +thousand pounds' weight, or twenty-five or thirty persons. +These were constructed from the trunk of a single tree, usually +white cedar. The bow and stern rose much higher than the gunwale, +and were adorned by grotesque figures excellently well carved +and fitted to pedestals cut in the solid wood of the canoe. +The same method of adornment may be seen among the aborigines +of Alaska and other regions of the North Pacific, to-day. The +figures are made of small pieces of wood neatly fitted together +by inlaying and mortising, without any spike of any kind. +When one reflects that the Indians seen by Lewis and Clark +constructed their large canoes with very poor tools, it is impossible +to withhold one's admiration of their industry and patience. +The journal says:-- + +"Our admiration of their skill in these curious constructions was +increased by observing the very inadequate implements which they use. +These Indians possess very few axes, and the only tool they employ, +from felling the tree to the delicate workmanship of the images, is a chisel +made of an old file, about an inch or an inch and a half in width. +Even of this, too, they have not learned the proper management; +for the chisel is sometimes fixed in a large block of wood, and, being held +in the right hand, the block is pushed with the left, without the aid +of a mallet. But under all these disadvantages, their canoes, +which one would suppose to be the work of years, are made in a few weeks. +A canoe, however, is very highly prized, being in traffic an article +of the greatest value except a wife, and of equal value with her; +so that a lover generally gives a canoe to the father in exchange +for his daughter. . . . + +"The harmony of their private life is secured by their ignorance +of spirituous liquors, the earliest and most dreadful present +which civilization has given to the other natives of the continent. +Although they have had so much intercourse with whites, they do +not appear to possess any knowledge of those dangerous luxuries; +at least they have never inquired after them, which they probably +would have done if once liquors bad been introduced among them. +Indeed, we have not observed any liquor of intoxicating quality among +these or any Indians west of the Rocky Mountains, the universal +beverage being pure water. They, however, sometimes almost intoxicate +themselves by smoking tobacco, of which they are excessively fond, +and the pleasures of which they prolong as much as possible, by retaining +vast quantities at a time, till after circulating through the lungs +and stomach it issues in volumes from the mouth and nostrils." + +A long period of quiet prevailed in camp after the first of February, +before the final preparations for departure were made. +Parties were sent out every day to hunt, and the campers were +able to command a few days' supply of provision in advance. +The flesh of the deer was now very lean and poor, +but that of the elk was growing better and better. +It was estimated by one of the party that they killed, +between December 1, 1805, and March 20, 1806, elk to +the number of one hundred and thirty-one, and twenty deer. +Some of this meat they smoked for its better preservation, +but most of it was eaten fresh. No record was kept of the amount +of fish consumed by the party; but they were obliged at times +to make fish their sole article of diet. Late in February +they were visited by Comowool, the principal Clatsop chief, +who brought them a sturgeon and quantities of a small fish which +had just begun to make its appearance in the Columbia. This was +known as the anchovy, but oftener as the candle-fish; +it is so fat that it may be burned like a torch, or candle. +The journal speaks of Comowool as "by far the most friendly +and decent savage we have seen in this neighborhood." + + + +Chapter XIX + +With Faces turned Homeward + +The officers of the expedition had decided to begin their homeward +march on the first of April; but a natural impatience induced them +to start a little earlier, and, as a matter of record, it may be +said that they evacuated Fort Clatsop on the 23d of March, 1806. +An examination of their stock of ammunition showed that they +had on hand a supply of powder amply sufficient for their needs +when travelling the three thousand miles of wilderness in which +their sole reliance for food must be the game to be killed. +The powder was kept in leaden canisters, and these, when empty, +were used for making balls for muskets and rifles. Three bushels +of salt were collected for their use on the homeward journey. + +What they needed now most of all was an assortment of small wares +and trinkets with which to trade with the Indians among whom they +must spend so many months before reaching civilization again. +They had ample letters of credit from the Government at Washington, +and if they had met with white traders on the seacoast, +they could have bought anything that money would buy. +They had spent nearly all their stock in coming across the continent. +This is Captain Lewis's summary of the goods on hand just before +leaving Fort Clatsop:-- + +"All the small merchandise we possess might be tied up +in a couple of handkerchiefs. The rest of our stock in trade +consists of six blue robes, one scarlet ditto, five robes +which we made out of our large United States flag, a few old +clothes trimmed with ribbons, and one artillerist's uniform coat +and hat, which probably Captain Clark will never wear again. +We have to depend entirely upon this meagre outfit for the purchase +of such horses and provisions as it will be in our power to obtain-- +a scant dependence, indeed, for such a journey as is before us." + +One of their last acts was to draw up a full list of the members +of the party, and, making several copies of it, to leave these +among the friendly Indians with instructions to give a paper +to the first white men who should arrive in the country. +On the back of the paper was traced the track by which the +explorers had come and that by which they expected to return. +This is a copy of one of these important documents:-- + +"The object of this list is, that through the medium of some civilized +person who may see the same, it may be made known to the informed world, +that the party consisting of the persons whose names are hereunto annexed, +and who were sent out by the government of the U'States in May, +1804, to explore the interior of the Continent of North America, +did penetrate the same by way of the Missouri and Columbia Rivers, +to the discharge of the latter into the Pacific Ocean, where they +arrived on the 14th of November, 1805, and from whence they departed +the 23d day of March, 1806, on their return to the United States +by the same rout they had come out." + +Curiously enough, one of these papers did finally reach the +United States. During the summer of 1806, the brig "Lydia," Captain Hill, +entered the Columbia for the purpose of trading with the natives. +From one of these Captain Hill secured the paper, which he took +to Canton, China, in January, 1807. Thence it was sent to a gentleman +in Philadelphia, having travelled nearly all the way round the world. + +Fort Clatsop, as they called the rude collection of huts in which they +had burrowed all winter, with its rude furniture and shelters, was formally +given to Comowool, the Clatsop chief who had been so kind to the party. +Doubtless the crafty savage had had his eye on this establishment, +knowing that it was to be abandoned in the spring. + +The voyagers left Fort Clatsop about one o'clock in the day, and, +after making sixteen miles up the river, camped for the night. +Next day, they reached an Indian village where they purchased "some +wappatoo and a dog for the invalids." They still had several men +on the sick list in consequence of the hard fare of the winter. +The weather was cold and wet, and wood for fuel was difficult to obtain. +In a few days they found themselves among their old friends, +the Skilloots, who had lately been at war with the Chinooks. There was +no direct intercourse between the two nations as yet, but the Chinooks +traded with the Clatsops and Wahkiacums, and these in turn traded +with the Skilloots, and in this way the two hostile tribes exchanged +the articles which they had for those which they desired. +The journal has this to say about the game of an island on which +the explorers tarried for a day or two, in order to dry their goods +and mend their canoes:-- + +"This island, which has received from the Indians the appropriate +name of Elalah [Elallah], or Deer Island, is surrounded on the +water-side by an abundant growth of cottonwood, ash, and willow, +while the interior consists chiefly of prairies interspersed +with ponds. These afford refuge to great numbers of geese, +ducks, large swan, sandhill cranes, a few canvas-backed ducks, +and particularly the duckinmallard, the most abundant of all. +There are also great numbers of snakes resembling our +garter-snakes in appearance, and like them not poisonous. +Our hunters brought in three deer, a goose, some ducks, an eagle, +and a tiger-cat. Such is the extreme voracity of the vultures, +that they had devoured in the space of a few hours four +of the deer killed this morning; and one of our men declared +that they had besides dragged a large buck about thirty yards, +skinned it, and broken the backbone." + +The vulture here referred to is better known as the California condor, +a great bird of prey which is now so nearly extinct that few specimens are +ever seen, and the eggs command a great price from those who make collections +of such objects. A condor killed by one of the hunters of the Lewis and Clark +expedition measured nine feet and six inches from tip to tip of its wings, +three feet and ten inches from the point of the bill to the end of the tail, +and six inches and a half from the back of the head to the tip of the beak. +Very few of the condors of the Andes are much larger than this, though one +measuring eleven feet from tip to tip has been reported. + +While camped at Quicksand, or Sandy River, the party +learned that food supplies up the Columbia were scarce. +The journal says that the Indians met here were descending +the river in search of food. It adds:-- + +"They told us, that they lived at the Great Rapids; but that +the scarcity of provisions there had induced them to come down, +in the hopes of finding subsistence in the more fertile valley. +All the people living at the Rapids, as well as the nations +above them, were in much distress for want of food, having consumed +their winter store of dried fish, and not expecting the return +of the salmon before the next full moon, which would be on the +second of May: this information was not a little embarrassing. +From the Falls to the Chopunnish nation, the plains afforded +neither deer, elk, nor antelope for our subsistence. +The horses were very poor at this season, and the dogs must +be in the same condition, if their food, the dried fish, +had failed. Still, it was obviously inexpedient for us to wait +for the return of the salmon, since in that case we might not reach +the Missouri before the ice would prevent our navigating it. +We might, besides, hazard the loss of our horses, as the Chopunnish, +with whom we had left them, would cross the mountains as early +as possible, or about the beginning of May, and take our horses +with them, or suffer them to disperse, in either of which cases +the passage of the mountains will be almost impracticable. +We therefore, after much deliberation, decided to remain where we +were till we could collect meat enough to last us till we +should reach the Chopunnish nation, and to obtain canoes from +the natives as we ascended, either in exchange for our pirogues, +or by purchasing them with skins and merchandise. These canoes, +again, we might exchange for horses with the natives of the plains, +till we should obtain enough to travel altogether by land. +On reaching the southeast branch of the Columbia, four or five men +could be sent on to the Chopunnish to have our horses in readiness; +and thus we should have a stock of horses sufficient both to transport +our baggage and supply us with food, as we now perceived that they +would form our only certain dependance for subsistence." + +On the third of April this entry is made:-- + +"A considerable number of Indians crowded about us to-day, +many of whom came from the upper part of the river. +These poor wretches confirm the reports of scarcity among the +nations above; which, indeed, their appearance sufficiently proved, +for they seemed almost starved, and greedily picked the bones +and refuse meat thrown away by us. + +"In the evening Captain Clark returned from an excursion. On setting +out yesterday at half-past eleven o'clock, he directed his course along +the south side of the [Columbia] river, where, at the distance of eight miles, +he passed a village of the Nechacohee tribe, belonging to the Eloot nation. +The village itself is small, and being situated behind Diamond Island, +was concealed from our view as we passed both times along the northern shore. +He continued till three o'clock, when he landed at the single house already +mentioned as the only remains of a village of twenty-four straw huts. +Along the shore were great numbers of small canoes for gathering wappatoo, +which were left by the Shahalas, who visit the place annually. +The present inhabitants of the house are part of the Neerchokioo tribe of +the same [Shahala] nation. On entering one of the apartments of the house, +Captain Clark offered several articles to the Indians in exchange +for wappatoo; but they appeared sullen and ill-humored, and refused to give +him any. He therefore sat down by the fire opposite the men, and taking +a port-fire match from his pocket, threw a small piece of it into the flame; +at the same time he took his pocket-compass, and by means of a magnet, +which happened to be in his inkhorn, made the needle turn round very briskly. +The match now took fire and burned violently, on which the Indians, +terrified at this strange exhibition, immediately brought a quantity +of wappatoo and laid it at his feet, begging him to put out the bad fire, +while an old woman continued to speak with great vehemence, as if praying +and imploring protection. Having received the roots, Captain Clark put up +the compass, and as the match went out of itself tranquillity was restored, +though the women and children still took refuge in their beds and behind +the men. He now paid them for what he had used, and after lighting his pipe +and smoking with them, continued down the river." + +The excursion from which Captain Clark had returned, as noted in this extract, +was up the Multnomah River. As we have already seen, the explorers missed +that stream when they came down the Columbia; and they had now passed +it again unnoticed, owing to the number of straggling islands that hide +its junction with the Columbia. Convinced that a considerable river must +drain the region to the south, Captain Clark went back alone and penetrating +the intricate channels among the islands, found the mouth of the Multnomah, +now better known as the Willamette. He was surprised to find that the depth +of water in the river was so great that large vessels might enter it. +He would have been much more surprised if he had been told that a large city, +the largest in Oregon, would some day be built on the site of the Indian huts +which he saw. Here Captain Clark found a house occupied by several families +of the Neechecolee nation. Their mansion was two hundred and twenty-six feet +long and was divided into apartments thirty feet square. + +The most important point in this region of the Columbia was named +Wappatoo Island by the explorers. This is a large extent of country +lying between the Willamette and an arm of the Columbia which they called +Wappatoo Inlet, but which is now known as Willamette Slough. It is twenty +miles long and from five to ten miles wide. Here is an interesting +description of the manner of gathering the roots of the wappatoo, +of which we have heard so much in this region of country:-- + +"The chief wealth of this island consists of the numerous ponds in +the interior, abounding with the common arrowhead (sagittaria sagittifolia) +to the root of which is attached a bulb growing beneath it in the mud. +This bulb, to which the Indians give the name of wappatoo,[1] is +the great article of food, and almost the staple article of commerce on +the Columbia. It is never out of season; so that at all times of the year +the valley is frequented by the neighboring Indians who come to gather it. +It is collected chiefly by the women, who employ for the purpose canoes from +ten to fourteen feet in length, about two feet wide and nine inches deep, +and tapering from the middle, where they are about twenty inches wide. +They are sufficient to contain a single person and several bushels +of roots, yet so very light that a woman can carry them with ease. +She takes one of these canoes into a pond where the water is as high +as the breast, and by means of her toes separates from the root this bulb, +which on being freed from the mud rises immediately to the surface +of the water, and is thrown into the canoe. In this manner these patient +females remain in the water for several hours, even in the depth of winter. +This plant is found through the whole extent of the valley in which we +now are, but does not grow on the Columbia farther eastward." + + +[1] In the Chinook jargon "Wappatoo" stands for potato. + + +The natives of this inland region, the explorers found, +were larger and better-shaped than those of the sea-coast, +but they were nearly all afflicted with sore eyes. +The loss of one eye was common, and not infrequently total +blindness was observed in men of mature years, while blindness +was almost universal among the old people. The white men made +good use of the eye-water which was among their supplies; +it was gratefully received by the natives and won them friends +among the people they met. On the fifth of April the journal +has this entry:-- + +"In the course of his chase yesterday, one of our men [Collins], +who had killed a bear, found the den of another with three cubs in it. +He returned to-day in hopes of finding her, but brought only the cubs, +without being able to see the dam; and on this occasion Drewyer, +our most experienced huntsman, assured us that he had never known +a single instance where a female bear, which had once been disturbed +by a hunter and obliged to leave her young, returned to them again. +The young bears were sold for wappatoo to some of the many Indians +who visited us in parties during the day and behaved very well." + +And on the ninth is this entry:-- + +"The wind having moderated, we reloaded the canoes and set out +by seven o'clock. We stopped to take up the two hunters who left +us yesterday, but were unsuccessful in the chase, and then proceeded +to the Wahclellah village, situated on the north side of the river, +about a mile below Beacon Rock. During the whole of the route +from camp we passed along under high, steep, and rocky sides +of the mountains, which now close on each side of the river, +forming stupendous precipices, covered with fir and white cedar. +Down these heights frequently descend the most beautiful cascades, +one of which, a large creek, throws itself over a perpendicular rock +three hundred feet above the water, while other smaller streams +precipitate themselves from a still greater elevation, and evaporating +in a mist, collect again and form a second cascade before they reach +the bottom of the rocks. We stopped to breakfast at this village. +We here found the tomahawk which had been stolen from us on +the fourth of last November. They assured us they had bought it +of the Indians below; but as the latter had already informed us +that the Wahclellahs had such an article, which they had stolen, +we made no difficulty about retaking our property." + +The Columbia along the region through which the expedition +was now passing is a very wild and picturesque stream. +The banks are high and rocky, and some of the precipices to +which the journal refers are of a vast perpendicular height. +On the Oregon side of the river are five cascades such as those +which the journal mentions. The most famous and beautiful +of these is known as Multnomah Falls. This cataract has a total +fall of more than six hundred feet, divided into two sections. +The other cascades are the Bridal Veil, the Horsetail, +the Latourelle, and the Oneonta, and all are within a few miles +of each other. + +On the ninth of April the voyagers reached the point at which they were +to leave tidewater, fifty-six miles above the mouth of the Multnomah, +or Willamette. They were now at the entrance of the great rapids +which are known as the Cascades of the Columbia, and which occupy +a space on the river about equal to four miles and a half. +They were still navigating the stream with their canoes, camping sometimes +on the north side and sometimes on the south side of the river. +This time they camped on the north side, and during the night lost one +of their boats, which got loose and drifted down to the next village +of the Wahclellahs, some of whom brought it back to the white men's +camp and were rewarded for their honesty by a present of two knives. +It was found necessary to make a portage here, but a long and severe +rainstorm set in, and the tents and the skins used for protecting +the baggage were soaked. The journal goes on with the narrative thus:-- + +We determined to take the canoes first over the portage, +in hopes that by the afternoon the rain would cease, +and we might carry our baggage across without injury. +This was immediately begun by almost the whole party, who in +the course of the day dragged four of the canoes to the head +of the rapids, with great difficulty and labor. A guard, +consisting of one sick man and three who had been lamed by accidents, +remained with Captain Lewis [and a cook] to guard the baggage. +This precaution was absolutely necessary to protect it from +the Wahclellahs, whom we discovered to be great thieves, +notwithstanding their apparent honesty in restoring our boat; +indeed, so arrogant and intrusive have they become that nothing +but our numbers, we are convinced, saves us from attack. +They crowded about us while we were taking up the boats, +and one of them had the insolence to throw stones down the bank +at two of our men. + +"We now found it necessary to depart from our mild and pacific +course of conduct. On returning to the head of the portage, +many of them met our men and seemed very ill-disposed. Shields +had stopped to purchase a dog, and being separated from the rest +of the party, two Indians pushed him out of the road, and attempted +to take the dog from him. He had no weapon but a long knife, +with which he immediately attacked them both, hoping to put +them to death before they had time to draw their arrows; +but as soon as they saw his design they fled into the woods. +Soon afterward we were told by an Indian who spoke Clatsop, +which we had ourselves learned during the winter, that the Wahclellahs +had carried off Captain Lewis' dog to their village below. +Three men well armed were instantly despatched in pursuit of them, +with orders to fire if there was the slightest resistance or hesitation. +At the distance of two miles they came within sight of the thieves, +who, finding themselves pursued, left the dog and made off. +We now ordered all the Indians out of our camp, and explained +to them that whoever stole any of our baggage, or insulted our men, +should be instantly shot; a resolution which we were determined +to enforce, as it was now our only means of safety. + +"We were visited during the day by a chief of the Clahclellahs, +who seemed mortified at the behavior of the Indians, +and told us that the persons at the head of their outrages +were two very bad men who belonged to the Wahclellah tribe, +but that the nation did not by any means wish to displease us. +This chief seemed very well-disposed, and we had every reason to believe +was much respected by the neighboring Indians. We therefore gave +him a small medal and showed him all the attention in our power, +with which he appeared very much gratified." + +The portage of these rapids was very difficult and tiresome. +The total distance of the first stage was twenty-eight hundred yards +along a narrow way rough with rocks and now slippery with rain. +One of the canoes was lost here by being driven out into the strong current, +where the force of the water was so great that it could not be held +by the men; the frail skiff drifted down the rapids and disappeared. +They now had two canoes and two periogues left, and the loads were divided +among these craft. This increased the difficulties of navigation, +and Captain Lewis crossed over to the south side of the river in search +of canoes to be purchased from the Indians, who lived in a village +on that side of the stream. The narrative continues: + +"The village now consisted of eleven houses, crowded with inhabitants, +and about sixty fighting men. They were very well disposed, and we found no +difficulty in procuring two small canoes, in exchange for two robes and four +elk-skins. He also purchased with deer-skins three dogs,--an animal which has +now become a favorite food, for it is found to be a strong, healthy diet, +preferable to lean deer or elk, and much superior to horseflesh in any state. +With these he proceeded along the south side of the river, and joined us +in the evening." + +Above the rapids the party encountered two tribes of Indians from +whom they endeavored to buy horses, for they were now approaching +a point when they must leave the river and travel altogether by land. +One of these tribes was known as the Weocksockwillacurns, +and the other was the Chilluckittequaws. These jaw-breaking +names are commended to those who think that the Indian names +of northern Maine are difficult to handle. Trees were now +growing scarcer, and the wide lowlands spread out before +the explorers stretched to the base of the Bitter Root Mountains +without trees, but covered with luxuriant grass and herbage. +After being confined so long to the thick forests and mountains +of the seacoast, the party found this prospect very exhilarating, +notwithstanding the absence of forests and thickets. +The climate, too, was much more agreeable than that to which they +had lately been accustomed, being dry and pure. + + + +Chapter XX + +The Last Stage of the Columbia + +On the thirteenth of April the party reached the series of falls +and rapids which they called the Long Narrows. At the point +reached the river is confined, for a space of about fourteen miles, +to narrow channels and rocky falls. The Long Narrows +are now known as the Dalles. The word "dalles" is French, +and signifies flagstones, such as are used for sidewalks. +Many of the rocks in these narrows are nearly flat on top, +and even the precipitous banks look like walls of rock. +At the upper end of the rapids, or dalles, is Celilo City, +and at the lower end is Dalles City, sometimes known as +"The Dalles." Both of these places are in Oregon; the total fall +of the water from Celilo to the Dalles is over eighty feet. +Navigation of these rapids is impossible. As the explorers had +no further use for their pirogues, they broke them up for fuel. +The merchandise was laboriously carried around on the river bank. +They were able to buy four horses from the Skilloots for which +they paid well in goods. It was now nearly time for the salmon +to begin to run, and under date of April 19 the journal +has this entry:-- + +"The whole village was filled with rejoicing to-day at having caught +a single salmon, which was considered as the harbinger of vast +quantities in four or five days. In order to hasten their arrival +the Indians, according to custom, dressed the fish and cut it into +small pieces, one of which was given to each child in the village. +In the good humor excited by this occurrence they parted, +though reluctantly, with four other horses, for which we gave +them two kettles, reserving only a single small one for a mess +of eight men. Unluckily, however, we lost one of the horses +by the negligence of the person to whose charge he was committed. +The rest were, therefore, hobbled and tied; but as the nations here +do not understand gelding, all the horses but one were stallions; +this being the season when they are most vicious, we had great difficulty +in managing them, and were obliged to keep watch over them all night. +. . . . . . . . . . + +As it was obviously our interest to preserve the goodwill of +these people, we passed over several small thefts which they committed, +but this morning we learnt that six tomahawks and a knife had been +stolen during the night. We addressed ourselves to the chief, +who seemed angry with his people, and made a harangue to them; +but we did not recover the articles, and soon afterward two of our +spoons were missing. We therefore ordered them all from our camp, +threatening to beat severely any one detected in purloining. +This harshness irritated them so much that they left us in an +ill-humor, and we therefore kept on our guard against any insult. +Besides this knavery, the faithlessness of the people +is intolerable; frequently, after receiving goods in exchange +for a horse, they return in a few hours and insist on +revoking the bargain or receiving some additional value. +We discovered, too, that the horse which was missing yesterday +had been gambled away by the fellow from whom we had purchased him, +to a man of a different nation, who had carried him off. +We succeeded in buying two more horses, two dogs, and some chappelell, +and also exchanged a couple of elk-skins for a gun belonging +to the chief . . . One of the canoes, for which the Indians would +give us very little, was cut up for fuel; two others, together with +some elk-skins and pieces of old iron, we bartered for beads, +and the remaining two small ones were despatched early next morning, +with all the baggage which could not be carried on horseback. +We had intended setting out at the same time, but one of our horses +broke loose during the night, and we were under the necessity +of sending several men in search of him. In the mean time, +the Indians, who were always on the alert, stole a tomahawk, +which we could not recover, though several of them were searched; +and another fellow was detected in carrying off a piece of iron, +and kicked out of camp; upon which Captain Lewis, addressing them, +told them he was not afraid to fight them, for, if he chose, +he could easily put them all to death, and burn their village, +but that he did not wish to treat them ill if they kept from stealing; +and that, although, if he could discover who had the tomahawks, +he would take away their horses, yet he would rather lose +the property altogether than take the horse of an innocent man. +The chiefs were present at this harangue, hung their heads, +and made no reply. + +"At ten o'clock the men returned with the horse, and soon after an Indian, +who had promised to go with us as far as the Chopunnish, came with two horses, +one of which he politely offered to assist in carrying our baggage. +We therefore loaded nine horses, and, giving the tenth to Bratton, +who was still too sick to walk, at about ten o'clock left the village +of these disagreeable people." + +At an Indian village which they reached soon after leaving that of the +disagreeable Skilloots, they found the fellow who had gambled away the horse +that he had sold. Being faced with punishment, he agreed to replace +the animal he had stolen with another, and a very good horse was brought +to satisfy the white men, who were now determined to pursue a rigid course +with the thievish Indians among whom they found themselves. These people, +the Eneeshurs, were stingy, inhospitable, and overbearing in their ways. +Nothing but the formidable numbers of the white men saved them from insult, +pillage, and even murder. While they were here, one of the horses +belonging to the party broke loose and ran towards the Indian village. +A buffalo robe attached to him fell off and was gathered in by one of +the Eneeshurs. Captain Lewis, whose patience was now exhausted, set out, +determined to burn the village unless the Indians restored the robe. +Fortunately, however, one of his men found the missing article hidden +in a hut, and so any act of violent reprisal was not necessary. + +So scarce had now become fuel, the party were obliged to buy +what little wood they required for their single cooking-fire. +They could not afford a fire to keep them warm, and, +as the nights were cold and they lay without any shelter, +they were most uncomfortable, although the days were warm. +They were now travelling along the Columbia River, using their +horses for a part of their luggage, and towing the canoes +with the remainder of the stuff. On the twenty-third of April +they arrived at the mouth of Rock Creek, on the Columbia, +a considerable stream which they missed as they passed this point +on their way down, October 21. Here they met a company of Indians +called the Wahhowpum, with whom they traded pewter buttons, +strips of tin and twisted wire for roots, dogs, and fuel. +These people were waiting for the arrival of the salmon. +The journal says:-- + +"After arranging the camp we assembled all the warriors, and having +smoked with them, the violins were produced, and some of the men danced. +This civility was returned by the Indians in a style of dancing, +such as we had not yet seen. The spectators formed a circle +round the dancers, who, with their robes drawn tightly round +the shoulders, and divided into parties of five or six men, +perform by crossing in a line from one side of the circle to the other. +All the parties, performers as well as spectators, sing, and after +proceeding in this way for some time, the spectators join, +and the whole concludes by a promiscuous dance and song. +Having finished, the natives retired at our request, after promising +to barter horses with us in the morning." + +They bought three horses of these Indians and hired +three more from a Chopunnish who was to accompany them. +The journal adds:-- + +"The natives also had promised to take our canoes in exchange for horses; +but when they found that we were resolved on travelling by land they refused +giving us anything, in hopes that we would be forced to leave them. +Disgusted at this conduct, we determined rather to cut them to pieces +than suffer these people to enjoy them, and actually began to split them, +on which they gave us several strands of beads for each canoe. +We had now a sufficient number of horses to carry our baggage, +and therefore proceeded wholly by land." + +Next day the party camped near a tribe of Indians known as +the Pishquitpah. These people had never seen white men before, and they +flocked in great numbers around the strangers, but were very civil +and hospitable, although their curiosity was rather embarrassing. +These people were famous hunters, and both men and women were +excellent riders. They were now travelling on the south side +of the river, in Oregon, and, after leaving the Pishquitpahs, +they encountered the "Wollawollahs," as they called them. +These Indians are now known as the Walla Walla tribe, +and their name is given to a river, a town, and a fort of the +United States. In several of the Indian dialects walla means +"running water," and when the word is repeated, it diminishes the size +of the object; so that Walla Walla means "little running water." +Near here the explorers passed the mouth of a river which they +called the Youmalolam; it is a curious example of the difficulty +of rendering Indian names into English. The stream is now known +as the Umatilla. Here they found some old acquaintances of whom +the journal has this account:-- + +"Soon after we were joined by seven Wollawollahs, among whom we recognized a +chief by the name of Yellept, who had visited us on the nineteenth of October, +when we gave him a medal with the promise of a larger one on our return. +He appeared very much pleased at seeing us again, and invited us to remain +at his village three or four days, during which he would supply us +with the only food they had, and furnish us with horses for our journey. +After the cold, inhospitable treatment we have lately received, this kind +offer was peculiarly acceptable; and after a hasty meal we accompanied him +to his village, six miles above, situated on the edge of the low country, +about twelve miles below the mouth of Lewis' River. + +"Immediately on our arrival Yellept, who proved to be a man of +much influence, not only in his own but in the neighboring nations, +collected the inhabitants, and having made a harangue, the purport +of which was to induce the nations to treat us hospitably, +he set them an example by bringing himself an armful of wood, +and a platter containing three roasted mullets. They immediately +assented to one part, at least, of the recommendation, +by furnishing us with an abundance of the only sort of fuel +they employ, the stems of shrubs growing in the plains. +We then purchased four dogs, on which we supped heartily, +having been on short allowance for two days past. When we were +disposed to sleep, the Indians retired immediately on our request, +and indeed, uniformly conducted themselves with great propriety. +These people live on roots, which are very abundant in the plains, +and catch a few salmon-trout; but at present they seem to subsist +chiefly on a species of mullet, weighing from one to three pounds. +They informed us that opposite the village there was a route +which led to the mouth of the Kooskooskee, on the south side +of Lewis' River; that the road itself was good, and passed +over a level country well supplied with water and grass; +and that we should meet with plenty of deer and antelope. +We knew that a road in that direction would shorten the distance +at least eighty miles; and as the report of our guide was confirmed +by Yellept and other Indians, we did not hesitate to adopt +this route: they added, however, that there were no houses, +nor permanent Indian residences on the road and that it +would therefore be prudent not to trust wholly to our guns, +but to lay in a stock of provisions. + +"Taking their advice, therefore, we next day purchased ten dogs. +While the trade for these was being conducted by our men, +Yellept brought a fine white horse, and presented him +to Captain Clark, expressing at the same time a wish to +have a kettle; but, on being informed that we had already +disposed of the last kettle we could spare, he said he would +be content with any present we chose to make him in return. +Captain Clark thereupon gave him his sword, for which the chief +had before expressed a desire, adding one hundred balls, +some powder, and other small articles, with which he appeared +perfectly satisfied. We were now anxious to depart, and requested +Yellept to lend us canoes for the purpose of crossing the river; +but he would not listen to any proposal of the kind. +He wished us to remain for two or three days; but, at all events, +would not consent to our going to-day, for he had already sent +to invite his neighbors, the Chimnapoos, to come down this +evening and join his people in a dance for our amusement. +We urged in vain that, by setting out sooner, we would +the earlier return with the articles they desired; +for a day, he observed, would make but little difference. +We at length mentioned that, as there was no wind it was +now the best time to cross the river, and we would merely +take the horses over and return to sleep at their village. +To this he assented; we then crossed with our horses, and having +hobbled them, returned to their camp. + +"Fortunately, there was among these Wollwaollahs a prisoner belonging +to a tribe of Shoshonee or Snake Indians, residing to the south of +the Multnomah and visiting occasionally the heads of Wollawollah Creek. +Our Shoshonee woman, Sacajawea, though she belonged to a tribe near +the Missouri, spoke the same language as this prisoner; by their means +we were able to explain ourselves to the Indians, and answer all their +inquiries with respect to ourselves and the object of our journey. +Our conversation inspired them with much confidence, and they soon +brought several sick persons, for whom they requested our assistance. +We splintered [splinted] the broken arm of one, gave some relief +to another, whose knee was contracted by rheumatism, and administered +what we thought beneficial for ulcers and eruptions of the skin on +various parts of the body which are very common disorders among them. +But our most valuable medicine was eye-water, which we distributed, +and which, indeed, they required very much. + +"A little before sunset the Chimnapoos, amounting to one hundred men +and a few women, came to the village, and, joining the Wollawollahs, +who were about the same number of men, formed themselves in a circle +round our camp, and waited very patiently till our men were +disposed to dance, which they did for about an hour, to the music +of the violin. They then requested the Indians to dance. +With this they readily complied; and the whole assemblage, +amounting, with the women and children of the village, +to several hundred, stood up, and sang and danced at the same time. +The exercise was not, indeed, very violent nor very graceful; +for the greater part of them were formed into a solid column, +round a kind of hollow square, stood on the same place, +and merely jumped up at intervals, to keep time to the music. +Some, however, of the more active warriors entered the square and +danced round it sideways, and some of our men joined in with them, +to the great satisfaction of the Indians. The dance continued +till ten o'clock." + +By the thirtieth of April the expedition was equipped with +twenty-three horses, most of which were young and excellent animals; +but many of them were afflicted with sore backs. All Indians are cruel +masters and hard riders, and their saddles are so rudely made that it +is almost impossible for an Indian's horse to be free from scars; +yet they continue to ride after the animal's back is scarified +in the most horrible manner. + +The expedition was now in what we know as Walla Walla County, Washington, +and they were travelling along the river Walla Walla, leaving +the Columbia, which has here a general direction of northerly. +The course of the party was northeast, their objective point +being that where Waitesburg is now built, near the junction +of Coppie Creek and the Touchet River. They were in a region +of wood in plenty, and for the first time since leaving the +Long Narrows, or Dalles, they had as much fuel as they needed. +On the Touchet, accordingly, they camped for the sake of having +a comfortable night; the nights were cold, and a good fire +by which to sleep was an attraction not easily resisted. +The journal, April 30, has this entry:-- + +"We were soon supplied by Drewyer with a beaver and an otter, +of which we took only a part of the beaver, and gave the rest +to the Indians. The otter is a favorite food, though much inferior, +at least in our estimation, to the dog, which they will not eat. +The horse is seldom eaten, and never except when absolute necessity +compels them, as the only alternative to dying of hunger. +This fastidiousness does not, however, seem to proceed so much from +any dislike to the food, as from attachment to the animal itself; +for many of them eat very heartily of the horse-beef which +we give them." + +On the first day of May, having travelled forty miles from +their camp near the mouth of the Walla Walla, they camped +between two points at which are now situated the two towns +of Prescott, on the south, and Waitesburg, on the north. +Their journal says:-- + +"We had scarcely encamped when three young men came up from the Wollawollah +village, with a steel-trap which had inadvertently been left behind, +and which they had come a whole day's journey in order to restore. +This act of integrity was the more pleasing, because, though very rare +among Indians, it corresponded perfectly with the general behavior +of the Wollawollahs, among whom we had lost carelessly several knives, +which were always returned as soon as found. We may, indeed, justly affirm, +that of all the Indians whom we had met since leaving the United States, +the Wollawollahs were the most hospitable, honest, and sincere." + + + +Chapter XXI + +Overland east of the Columbia + +It was now early in May, and the expedition, travelling eastward +along Touchet Creek, were in the country of their friends, +the Chopunnish. On the third, they were agreeably surprised +to meet Weahkootnut, whom they had named Bighorn from the fact +that be wore a born of that animal suspended from his left arm. +This man was the first chief of a large band of Chopunnish, +and when the expedition passed that way, on their path to the Pacific, +the last autumn, he was very obliging and useful to them, guiding them +down the Snake, or Lewis River. He had now heard that the white men +were on their return, and he had come over across the hills to meet them. +As we may suppose, the meeting was very cordial, and Weahkootnut +turned back with his white friends and accompanied them to the mouth +of the Kooskooskee, a stream of which our readers have heard before; +it is now known as the Clearwater. + +Captain Lewis told Weahkootnut that his people were hungry, +their slender stock of provisions being about exhausted. +The chief told them that they would soon come to a Chopunnish +house where they could get food. But the journal has this entry:-- + +"We found the house which Weahkootnut had mentioned, where we +halted for breakfast. It contained six families, so miserably +poor that all we could obtain from them were two lean dogs and a +few large cakes of half-cured bread, made of a root resembling +the sweet potato, of all which we contrived to form a kind of soup. +The soil of the plain is good, but it has no timber. +The range of southwest mountains is about fifteen miles above us, +but continues to lower, and is still covered with snow to its base. +After giving passage to Lewis' [Snake] River, near their +northeastern extremity, they terminate in a high level plain +between that river and the Kooskooskee. The salmon not having +yet called them to the rivers, the greater part of the Chopunnish +are now dispersed in villages through this plain, for the purpose +of collecting quamash and cows, which here grow in great abundance, +the soil being extremely fertile, in many places covered +with long-leaved pine, larch, and balsam-fir, which contribute +to render it less thirsty than the open, unsheltered plains." + +By the word "cows," in this sentence, we must understand that +the story-teller meant cowas, a root eaten by the Indians and white +explorers in that distant region. It is a knobbed, irregular root, +and when cooked resembles the ginseng. At this place the party +met some of the Indians whom Captain Clark had treated for +slight diseases, when they passed that way, the previous autumn. +They bad sounded the praises of the white men and their medicine, +and others were now waiting to be treated in the same manner. +The Indians were glad to pay for their treatment, and the white +men were not sorry to find this easy method of adding +to their stock of food, which was very scanty at this time. +The journal sagely adds, "We cautiously abstain from giving them +any but harmless medicines; and as we cannot possibly do harm, +our prescriptions, though unsanctioned by the faculty, may be useful, +and are entitled to some remuneration." Very famous and +accomplished doctors might say the same thing of their practice. +But the explorers did not meet with pleasant acquaintances only; +in the very next entry is recorded this disagreeable incident: + +"Four miles beyond this house we came to another large one, containing +ten families, where we halted and made our dinner on two dogs and a small +quantity of roots, which we did not procure without much difficulty. +Whilst we were eating, an Indian standing by, looking with great +derision at our eating dogs, threw a poor half-starved puppy almost +into Captain Lewis' plate, laughing heartily at the humor of it. +Captain Lewis took up the animal and flung it with great force into +the fellow's face; and seizing his tomahawk, threatened to cut him +down if he dared to repeat such insolence. He immediately withdrew, +apparently much mortified, and we continued our repast of dog very quietly. +Here we met our old Chopunnish guide, with his family; and soon afterward +one of our horses, which had been separated from the rest in charge +of Twisted-hair, and had been in this neighborhood for several weeks, +was caught and restored to us." + +Later in that day the party came to a Chopunnish house which was +one hundred and fifty-six feet long and fifteen feet wide. +Thirty families were living in this big house, each family +having its fire by itself burning on the earthen floor, +along through the middle of the great structure. +The journal says:-- + +"We arrived very hungry and weary, but could not purchase any provisions, +except a small quantity of the roots and bread of the cows. +They had, however, heard of our medical skill, and made many applications +for assistance, but we refused to do anything unless they gave us +either dogs or horses to eat. We soon had nearly fifty patients. +A chief brought his wife with an abscess on her back, and promised +to furnish us with a horse to-morrow if we would relieve her. +Captain Clark, therefore, opened the abscess, introduced a tent, +and dressed it with basilicon. We also prepared and distributed some doses +of flour of sulphur and cream of tartar, with directions for its use. +For these we obtained several dogs, but too poor for use, +and therefore postponed our medical operations till the morning. +In the mean time a number of Indians, besides the residents of the village, +gathered about us or camped in the woody bottom of the creek." + +It will be recollected that when the expedition was in this region (on the +Kooskooskee), during the previous September, on their way westward, they left +their horses with Chief Twisted-hair, travelling overland from that point. +They were now looking for that chief, and the journal says:-- + +"About two o'clock we collected our horses and set out, +accompanied by Weahkoonut, with ten or twelve men and a man +who said he was the brother of Twisted-hair. At four miles +we came to a single house of three families, but could not +procure provisions of any kind; and five miles further we +halted for the night near another house, built like the rest, +of sticks, mats, and dried hay, and containing six families. +It was now so difficult to procure anything to eat that our +chief dependence was on the horse which we received yesterday +for medicine; but to our great disappointment he broke the rope +by which be was confined, made his escape, and left us supperless +in the rain." + +Next day they met an Indian who brought them two canisters of powder, +which they at once knew to be some of that which they had buried last autumn. +The Indian said that his dog had dug it up in the meadow by the river, +and he had restored it to its rightful owners. As a reward for his honesty, +the captains gave him a flint and steel for striking fire; and they regretted +that their own poverty prevented them from being more liberal to the man. + +They observed that the Rocky Mountains, now in full sight, +were still covered with snow, and the prospect of crossing them +was not very rosy. Their Chopunnish guide told them that it would +be impossible to cross the mountains before the next full moon, +which would be about the first of June. The journal adds: +"To us, who are desirous of reaching the plains of the Missouri-- +if for no other reason, for the purpose of enjoying a good meal-- +this intelligence was by no means welcome, and gave no relish +to the remainder of the horse killed at Colter's Creek, which formed +our supper, as part of which had already been our dinner." +Next day, accordingly, the hunters turned out early in the morning, +and before noon returned with four deer and a duck, which, +with the remains of horse-beef on hand, gave them a much more +plentiful stock of provisions than had lately fallen to their lot. +During the previous winter, they were told, the Indians suffered +very much for lack of food, game of all sorts being scarce. +They were forced to boil and eat the moss growing on the trees, +and they cut down the pine-trees for the sake of the small nut +to be found in the pine-cones. Here they were met by an old friend, +Neeshnepahkeeook and the Shoshonee, who had acted as interpreter +for them. The journal says:-- + +"We gave Neeshnepahkeeook and his people some of our game and horse-beef, +besides the entrails of the deer, and four fawns which we found +inside of two of them. They did not eat any of them perfectly raw, +but the entrails had very little cooking; the fawns were boiled whole, +and the hide, hair, and entrails all consumed. The Shoshonee was offended +at not having as much venison as he wished, and refused to interpret; +but as we took no notice of him, he became very officious in the course +of a few hours, and made many efforts to reinstate himself in our favor. +The brother of Twisted-hair, and Neeshnepahkeeook, now drew a sketch, +which we preserved, of all the waters west of the Rocky Mountains." + +They now met Twisted-hair, in whose care they had left their +horses and saddles the previous fall, and this was the result +of their inquiries:-- + +"Between three and four o'clock in the afternoon we set out, +in company with Neeshuepahkeeook and other Indians, the brother +of Twisted-hair having left us. Our route was up a high steep +hill to a level plain with little wood, through which we +passed in a direction parallel to the [Kooskooskee] River +for four miles, when we met Twisted-hair and six of his people. +To this chief we had confided our horses and a part of our +saddles last autumn, and we therefore formed very unfavorable +conjectures on finding that he received us with great coldness. +Shortly afterward he began to speak in a very loud, angry manner, +and was answered by Neeshnepahkeeook. We now discovered +that a violent quarrel had arisen between these chiefs, +on the subject, as we afterward understood, of our horses. +But as we could not learn the cause, and were desirous +of terminating the dispute, we interposed, and told them +we should go on to the first water and camp. We therefore +set out, followed by all the Indians, and having reached, +at two miles' distance, a small stream running to the right, +we camped with the two chiefs and their little bands, +forming separate camps at a distance from each other. +They all appeared to be in an ill humor; and as we had already heard +reports that the Indians had discovered and carried off our saddles, +and that the horses were very much scattered, we began to be uneasy, +lest there should be too much foundation for the report. +We were therefore anxious to reconcile the two chiefs as soon +as possible, and desired the Shoshonee to interpret for us while we +attempted a mediation, but be peremptorily refused to speak a word. +He observed that it was a quarrel between the two chiefs, +and he had therefore no right to interfere; nor could all +our representations, that by merely repeating what we said he could +not possibly be considered as meddling between the chiefs, +induce him to take any part in it. + +"Soon afterward Drewyer returned from hunting, and was sent to invite +Twisted-hair to come and smoke with us. He accepted the invitation, +and as we were smoking the pipe over our fire he informed us that according +to his promise on leaving us at the falls of the Columbia, he had +collected our horses and taken charge of them as soon as he reached home. +But about this time Neeshnepahkeeook and Turmachemootoolt (Broken-arm), who, +as we passed, were on a war-party against the Shoshonees on the south +branch of Lewis' River, returned; and becoming jealous of him, +because the horses had been confided to his care, were constantly +quarrelling with him. At length, being an old man and unwilling to live +in perpetual dispute with these two chiefs, he had given up the care +of the horses, which had consequently become very much scattered. +The greater part of them were, however, still in the neighborhood; +some in the forks between the Chopunnish and Kooskooskee, +and three or four at the village of Broken Arm, about half a day's +march higher up the river. He added, that on the rise of the river +in the spring, the earth had fallen from the door of the cache, +and exposed the saddles, some of which had probably been lost; +but that, as soon as be was acquainted with the situation of them, +he had them buried in another deposit, where they now were. +He promised that, if we would stay the next day at his house, +a few miles distant, he would collect such of the horses as were +in the neighborhood, and send his young men for those in the forks, +over the Kooskooskee. He moreover advised us to visit Broken Arm, +who was a chief of great eminence, and he would himself guide us +to his dwelling. + +"We told him that we would follow his advice in every respect; +that we had confided our horses to his care, and expected +he would deliver them to us, on which we should cheerfully +give him the two guns and the ammunition we had promised him. +With this he seemed very much pleased, and declared +he would use every exertion to restore the horses. +We now sent for Neesbnepahkeeook, or Cut Nose, and, after smoking +for some time, began by expressing to the two chiefs +our regret at seeing a misunderstanding between them. +Neeshnepahkeeook replied that Twisted Hair was a bad old man, +and wore two faces; for, instead of taking care of our horses, +he had suffered his young men to hunt with them, so that they +had been very much injured, and it was for this reason +that Broken Arm and himself had forbidden him to use them. +Twisted Hair made no reply to this speech, and we then told +Neeshnepahkeeook of our arrangement for the next day. +He appeared to be very well satisfied, and said he would +himself go with us to Broken Arm, who expected to see us, +and had TWO BAD HORSES FOR US; by which expression we understood +that Broken Arm intended to make us a present of two horses." + +Next day, the party reached the house of Twisted-hair, and began +to look for their horses and saddles. The journal gives this +account of the search:-- + +"Late in the afternoon, Twisted-hair returned with about half the saddles +we had left in the autumn, and some powder and lead which were buried +at the same place. Soon after, the Indians brought us twenty-one +of our horses, the greater part of which were in excellent order, +though some had not yet recovered from hard usage, and three had sore backs. +We were, however, very glad to procure them in any condition. +Several Indians came down from the village of Tunnachemootoolt +and passed the night with us. Cut-nose and Twisted-hair seem now +perfectly reconciled, for they both slept in the house of the latter. +The man who had imposed himself upon us as a brother of Twisted-hair +also came and renewed his advances, but we now found that he was +an impertinent, proud fellow, of no respectability in the nation, +and we therefore felt no inclination to cultivate his intimacy. +Our camp was in an open plain, and soon became very uncomfortable, +for the wind was high and cold, and the rain and hail, which began +about seven o'clock, changed in two hours to a heavy fall of snow, +which continued till after six o'clock [May 10th], the next morning, +when it ceased, after covering the ground eight inches deep +and leaving the air keen and cold. We soon collected our horses, +and after a scanty breakfast of roots set out on a course S. 35'0 E." + +They were now following the general course of the Kooskooskee, +or Clearwater, as the stream is called, and their route lay in what is +now Nez Perce County, Idaho. They have passed the site of the present +city of Lewiston, named for Captain Lewis. They have arrived in a region +inhabited by the friendly Chopunnish, or Nez Perce, several villages +of which nation were scattered around the camp of the white men. +The narrative says: + +"We soon collected the men of consideration, and after smoking, +explained how destitute we were of provisions. The chief spoke to +the people, who immediately brought two bushels of dried quamash-roots, +some cakes of the roots of cows, and a dried salmon-trout; we thanked +them for this supply, but observed that, not being accustomed to live +on roots alone, we feared that such diet might make our men sick, +and therefore proposed to exchange one of our good horses, which was +rather poor, for one that was fatter, and which we might kill. +The hospitality of the chief was offended at the idea of an exchange; +he observed that his people had an abundance of young horses, +and that if we were disposed to use that food we might have as many +as we wanted. Accordingly, they soon gave us two fat young horses, +without asking anything in return, an act of liberal hospitality much +greater than any we have witnessed since crossing the Rocky Mountains, +if it be not in fact the only really hospitable treatment we have +received in this part of the world. We killed one of the horses, +and then telling the natives that we were fatigued and hungry, +and that as soon as we were refreshed we would communicate freely +with them, began to prepare our repast. + +"During this time a principal chief, called Hohastillpilp, +came from his village, about six miles distant, with a party +of fifty men, for the purpose of visiting us. We invited him into +our circle, and he alighted and smoked with us, while his retinue, +with five elegant horses, continued mounted at a short distance. +While this was going on, the chief had a large leathern tent +spread for us, and desired that we would make it our home +so long as we remained at his village. We removed there, +and having made a fire, and cooked our supper of horseflesh +and roots, collected all the distinguished men present, +and spent the evening in making known who we were, what were +the objects of our journey, and in answering their inquiries. +To each of the chiefs Tunnachemootoolt and Hohastillpilp we +gave a small medal, explaining their use and importance as +honorary distinctions both among the whites and the red men. +Our men were well pleased at once more having made a hearty meal. +They had generally been in the habit of crowding into +the houses of the Indians, to purchase provisions on the best +terms they could; for the inhospitality of the country +was such, that often, in the extreme of hunger, they were +obliged to treat the natives with but little ceremony; +but this Twisted Hair had told us was very disagreeable. +Finding that these people are so kind and liberal, we ordered +our men to treat them with the greatest respect, and not to throng +round their fires, so that they now agree perfectly well together. +After the council the Indians felt no disposition to retire, +and our tent was filled with them all night." + +As the expedition was here in a populous country, among many bands of Indians, +it was thought wise to have a powwow with the head men and explain to them +what were the intentions of the United States Government. But, owing to +the crooked course which their talk must needs take, it was very +difficult to learn if the Indians finally understood what was said. +Here is the journal's account of the way in which the powwow was conducted:-- + +"We collected the chiefs and warriors, and having drawn a map +of the relative situation of our country on a mat with a piece +of coal, detailed the nature and power of the American nation, +its desire to preserve harmony between all its red brethren, +and its intention of establishing trading-houses for their relief +and support. It was not without difficulty, nor till after nearly +half the day was spent, that we were able to convey all this +information to the Chopunnish, much of which might have been +lost or distorted in its circuitous route through a variety +of languages; for in the first place, we spoke in English +to one of our men, who translated it into French to Chaboneau; +he interpreted it to his wife in the Minnetaree language; +she then put it into Shoshonee, and the young Shoshonee +prisoner explained it to the Chopunnish in their own dialect. +At last we succeeded in communicating the impression we wished, +and then adjourned the council; after which we amused them +by showing the wonders of the compass, spy-glass, magnet, watch, +and air-gun, each of which attracted its share of admiration." + +The simple-minded Indians, who seemed to think that the white men +could heal all manner of diseases, crowded around them next day, +begging for medicines and treatment. These were freely given, +eye-water being most in demand. There was a general medical powwow. +The journal adds:-- + +"Shortly after, the chiefs and warriors held a council among themselves, +to decide on an answer to our speech, and the result was, as we +were informed, that they had full confidence in what we had told them, +and were resolved to follow our advice. This determination having +been made, the principal chief, Tunnachemootoolt, took a quantity +of flour of the roots of cow-weed [cowas], and going round +to all the kettles and baskets in which his people were cooking, +thickened the soup into a kind of mush. He then began an harangue, +setting forth the result of the deliberations among the chiefs, +and after exhorting them to unanimity, concluded with an invitation +to all who acquiesced in the proceedings of the council to come and eat; +while those who were of a different mind were requested to show their +dissent by not partaking of the feast. During this animated harangue, +the women, who were probably uneasy at the prospect of forming +this proposed new connection with strangers, tore their hair, +and wrung their hands with the greatest appearance of distress. +But the concluding appeal of the orator effectually stopped +the mouths of every malecontent, and the proceedings were ratified, +and the mush devoured with the most zealous unanimity. + +"The chiefs and warriors then came in a body to visit us as we were +seated near our tent; and at their instance, two young men, one of whom +was a son of Tunnachemootoolt, and the other the youth whose father +had been killed by the Pahkees, presented to us each a fine horse. +We invited the chiefs to be seated, and gave every one of them a flag, +a pound of powder, and fifty balls, and a present of the same +kind to the young men from whom we had received the horses. +They then invited us into the tent, and said that they now wished +to answer what we had told them yesterday, but that many of their people +were at that moment waiting in great pain for our medical assistance." + +It was agreed, therefore, that Captain Clark, who seems to have +been their favorite physician, should attend to the sick and lame, +while Captain Lewis should conduct a council with the chiefs +and listen to what they had to say. The upshot of the powwow +was that the Chopunnish said they had sent three of their warriors +with a pipe to make peace with the Shoshonees, last summer, +as they had been advised to do by the white men. The Shoshonees, +unmindful of the sacredness of this embassy, had killed the young +warriors and had invited the battle which immediately took place, +in which the Chopunnish killed forty-two of the Shoshonees, +to get even for the wanton killing of their three young men. +The white men now wanted some of the Chopunnish to accompany them +to the plains of the Missouri, but the Indians were not willing +to go until they were assured that they would not be waylaid +and slain by their enemies of the other side of the mountains. +The Chopunnish would think over the proposal that some of +their young men should go over the range with the white men; +a decision on this point should be reached before the white +men left the country. Anyhow, the white men might be sure +that the Indians would do their best to oblige their visitors. +Their conclusion was, "For, although we are poor, our hearts are good." +The story of this conference thus concludes:-- + +"As soon as this speech was concluded, Captain Lewis replied at some length; +with this they appeared highly gratified, and after smoking the pipe, +made us a present of another fat horse for food. We, in turn, +gave Broken-arm a phial of eye-water, with directions to wash the eyes +of all who should apply for it; and as we promised to fill it again +when it was exhausted, he seemed very much pleased with our liberality. +To Twisted-hair, who had last night collected six more horses, we gave a gun, +one hundred balls, and two pounds of powder, and told him he should +have the same quantity when we received the remainder of our horses. +In the course of the day three more of them were brought in, and a +fresh exchange of small presents put the Indians in excellent humor. +On our expressing a wish to cross the river and form a camp, in order to hunt +and fish till the snows had melted, they recommended a position a few +miles distant, and promised to furnish us to-morrow with a canoe to cross. +We invited Twisted-hair to settle near our camp, for he has several +young sons, one of whom we hope to engage as a guide, and he promised +to do so. Having now settled all their affairs, the Indians divided +themselves into two parties, and began to play the game of hiding a bone, +already described as common to all the natives of this country, +which they continued playing for beads and other ornaments." + +As there was so dismal a prospect for crossing the snow-covered mountains +at this season of the year, the captains of the expedition resolved to +establish a camp and remain until the season should be further advanced. +Accordingly, a spot on the north side of the river, recommended to them +by the Indians, was selected, and a move across the stream was made. +A single canoe was borrowed for the transit of the baggage, and the horses +were driven in to swim across, and the passage was accomplished without loss. +The camp was built on the site of an old Indian house, in a circle about +thirty yards in diameter, near the river and in an advantageous position. +As soon as the party were encamped, the two Chopunnish chiefs came down +to the opposite bank, and, with twelve of their nation, began to sing. +This was the custom of these people, being a token of their friendship +on such occasions. The captains sent a canoe over for the chiefs, and, +after smoking for some time, Hohastillpilp presented Captain with a fine +gray horse which he had brought over for that purpose, and he was perfectly +satisfied to receive in return a handkerchief, two hundred balls, and four +pounds of powder. + +Here is some curious information concerning the bears which they found +in this region. It must be borne in mind that they were still west +of the Bitter Root Mountains:-- + +"The hunters killed some pheasants, two squirrels, and a male +and a female bear, the first of which was large, fat, and of a +bay color; the second meagre, grizzly, and of smaller size. +They were of the species [Ursus horribilis] common to the upper +part of the Missouri, and might well be termed the variegated bear, +for they are found occasionally of a black, grizzly, brown, or red color. +There is every reason to believe them to be of precisely the same species. +Those of different colors are killed together, as in the case of these two, +and as we found the white and bay associated together on the Missouri; +and some nearly white were seen in this neighborhood by the hunters. +Indeed, it is not common to find any two bears of the same color; +and if the difference in color were to constitute a distinction +of species, the number would increase to almost twenty. +Soon afterward the hunters killed a female bear with two cubs. +The mother was black, with a considerable intermixture of white hairs +and a white spot on the breast. One of the cubs was jet black, +and the other of a light reddish-brown or bay color. The hair +of these variegated bears is much finer, longer, and more abundant +than that of the common black bear; but the most striking differences +between them are that the former are larger and have longer tusks, +and longer as well as blunter talons; that they prey more on other animals; +that they lie neither so long nor so closely in winter quarters; +and that they never climb a tree, however closely pressed by the hunters. +These variegated bears, though specifically the same with those we +met on the Missouri, are by no means so ferocious; probably because +the scarcity of game and the habit of living on roots may have +weaned them from the practices of attacking and devouring animals. +Still, however, they are not so passive as the common black bear, +which is also to be found here; for they have already fought with +our hunters, though with less fury than those on the other side +of the mountains. + +"A large part of the meat we gave to the Indians, to whom it +was a real luxury, as they scarcely taste flesh once in a month. +They immediately prepared a large fire of dried wood, +on which was thrown a number of smooth stones from the river. +As soon as the fire went down and the stones were heated, +they were laid next to each other in a level position, +and covered with a quantity of pine branches, on which were placed +flitches of the meat, and then boughs and flesh alternately +for several courses, leaving a thick layer of pine on the top. +On this heap they then poured a small quantity of water, +and covered the whole with earth to the depth of four inches. +After remaining in this state for about three hours, the meat +was taken off, and was really more tender than that which we +had boiled or roasted, though the strong flavor of the pine +rendered it disagreeable to our palates. This repast gave them +much satisfaction; for, though they sometimes kill the black bear, +they attack very reluctantly the fierce variegated bear; +and never except when they can pursue him on horseback over +the plains, and shoot him with arrows." + + + +Chapter XXII + +Camping with the Nez Perces + +Soon after they had fixed their camp, the explorers bade farewell +to their good friend Tunnachemootoolt and his young men, +who returned to their homes farther down the river. +Others of the Nez Perce, or Chopunnish, nation visited them, +and the strangers were interested in watching the Indians +preparing for their hunt. As they were to hunt the deer, +they had the head, horns, and hide of that animal so prepared +that when it was placed on the head and body of a hunter, +it gave a very deceptive idea of a deer; the hunter could move +the head of the decoy so that it looked like a deer feeding, +and the suspicious animals were lured within range of the Indians' +bow and arrow. + +On the sixteenth of May, Hohastillpilp and his young men also +left the white men's camp and returned to their own village. +The hunters of the party did not meet with much luck in their +quest for game, only one deer and a few pheasants being +brought in for several days. The party were fed on roots +and herbs, a species of onion being much prized by them. +Bad weather confined them to their camp, and a common entry +in their journal refers to their having slept all night in a pool +of water formed by the falling rain; their tent-cover was a +worn-out leathern affair no longer capable of shedding the rain. +While it rained in the meadows where they were camped, +they could see the snow covering the higher plains above them; +on those plains the snow was more than a foot deep, and yet +the plants and shrubs seemed to thrive in the midst of the snow. +On the mountains the snow was several feet in depth. +The journalist says: "So that within twenty miles of our camp +we observe the rigors of winter cold, the cool air of spring, +and the oppressive heat of midsummer." They kept a shrewd lookout +for the possibilities of future occupation of the land by white men; +and, writing here of country and its character, the journalist says: +"In short, this district affords many advantages to settlers, +and if properly cultivated, would yield every object +necessary for the comfort and subsistence of civilized man." +But in their wildest dreams, Captains Lewis and Clark could not +have foreseen that in that identical region thrifty settlements +of white men should flourish and that the time would come when +the scanty remnant of the Chopunnish, whom we now call Nez Perces, +would be gathered on a reservation near their camping-place. +But both of these things have come to pass. + +In describing the dress of the Chopunnish, or Nez Perces, +the journal says that tippets, or collars, were worn by the men. +"That of Hohastillpilp," says the journal, "was formed of human +scalps and adorned with the thumbs and fingers of several men +slain by him in battle." And yet the journal immediately adds: +"The Chopunnish are among the most amiable men we have seen. +Their character is placid and gentle, rarely moved to passion, +yet not often enlivened by gayety." In short, the Indians +were amiable savages; and it is a savage trait to love to +destroy one's enemies. + +Here is an entry in the journal of May 19 which will give the reader +some notion of the privations and the pursuits of the party while shut +up in camp for weary weeks in the early summer of 1806:-- + +"After a cold, rainy night, during a greater part of which we lay +in the water, the weather became fair; we then sent some men to a +village above us, on the opposite side, to purchase some roots. +They carried with them for this purpose a small collection of awls, +knitting-pins, and armbands, with which they obtained several +bushels of the root of cows, and some bread of the same material. +They were followed, too, by a train of invalids from the village, +who came to ask for our assistance. The men were generally afflicted with +sore eyes; but the women had besides this a variety of other disorders, +chiefly rheumatic, a violent pain and weakness in the loins, which is +a common complaint among them; one of them seemed much dejected, +and as we thought, from the account of her disease, hysterical. +We gave her thirty drops of laudanum, and after administering +eye-water, rubbing the rheumatic patients with volatile liniment, +and giving cathartics to others, they all thought themselves +much relieved and returned highly satisfied to the village. +We were fortunate enough to retake one of the horses on which we +[Captain Lewis] had crossed the Rocky Mountains in the autumn, +and which had become almost wild since that time." + +A day or two later, the journal has this significant entry: +"On parcelling out the stores, the stock of each man was found +to be only one awl, and one knitting-pin, half an ounce of vermilion, +two needles, a few skeins of thread, and about a yard of ribbon-- +a slender means of bartering for our subsistence; but the men have been +so much accustomed to privations that now neither the want of meat nor +the scanty funds of the party excites the least anxiety among them." +To add to their discomfort, there was a great deal of sickness in the camp, +owing to the low diet of the men. Sacajawea's baby was ill with mumps +and teething, and it is suggested that the two captains would have been +obliged to "walk the floor all night," if there had been any floor +to walk on; as it was, they were deprived of their nightly rest. +Here is an example of what the doctors would call heroic treatment +by Captain Clark, who conducted all such experiments:-- + +"With one of the men [Bratton] we have ventured an experiment +of a very robust nature. He has been for some time sick, +but has now recovered his flesh, eats heartily, and digests well, +but has so great a weakness in the loins that he cannot walk or even +sit upright without extreme pain. After we had in vain exhausted +the resources of our art, one of the hunters mentioned that he had +known persons in similar situations to be restored by violent sweats, +and at the request of the patient, we permitted the remedy to be applied. +For this purpose a hole about four feet deep and three in diameter was +dug in the earth, and heated well by a large fire in the bottom of it. +The fire was then taken out, and an arch formed over the hole +by means of willow-poles, and covered with several blankets +so as to make a perfect awning. The patient being stripped naked, +was seated under this on a beach, with a piece of board for +his feet, and with a jug of water sprinkled the bottom and sides +of the hole, so as to keep up as hot a steam as he could bear. +After remaining twenty minutes in this situation, he was taken out, +immediately plunged twice in cold water, and brought back to the hole, +where he resumed the vapor bath. During all this time he drank copiously +a strong infusion of horse-mint, which was used as a substitute +for seneca-root, which our informant said he had seen employed +on these occasions, but of which there is none in this country. +At the end of three-quarters of an hour he was again withdrawn +from the hole, carefully wrapped, and suffered to cool gradually. +This operation was performed yesterday; this morning he walked +about and is nearly free from pain. About eleven o'clock a canoe +arrived with three Indians, one of whom was the poor creature +who had lost the use of his limbs, and for whose recovery +the natives seem very anxious, as he is a chief of considerable +rank among them. His situation is beyond the reach of our skill. +He complains of no pain in any peculiar limb, and we therefore think +his disorder cannot be rheumatic, and his limbs would have been +more diminished if his disease had been a paralytic affection. +We had already ascribed it to his diet of roots, and had recommended +his living on fish and flesh, and using the cold bath every morning, +with a dose of cream of tartar or flowers of sulphur every third day." + +It is gratifying to be able to record the fact that Bratton and the Indian +(who was treated in the same manner) actually recovered from their malady. +The journal says of the Indian that his restoration was "wonderful." +This is not too strong a word to use under the circumstances, for the chief +had been helpless for nearly three years, and yet he was able to get +about and take care of himself after he had been treated by Captain +(otherwise Doctor) Clark. Two of his men met with a serious disaster about +this time; going across the river to trade with some Indians, their boat was +stove and went to the bottom, carrying with it three blankets, a blanket-coat, +and their scanty stock of merchandise, all of which was utterly lost. +Another disaster, which happened next day, is thus recorded:-- + +"Two of our men, who had been up the river to trade with the Indians, +returned quite unsuccessful. Nearly opposite the village, their horse +fell with his load down a steep cliff into the river, across which +he swam. An Indian on the opposite side drove him back to them; +but in crossing most of the articles were lost and the paint melted. +Understanding their intentions, the Indians attempted to come over to them, +but having no canoe, were obliged to use a raft, which struck on +a rock, upset, and the whole store of roots and bread were destroyed. +This failure completely exhausted our stock of merchandise; +but the remembrance of what we suffered from cold and hunger during +the passage of the Rocky Mountains makes us anxious to increase our +means of subsistence and comfort, since we have again to encounter +the same inconvenience." + +But the ingenuity of the explorers was equal to this emergency. +Having observed that the Indians were very fond of brass buttons, +which they fastened to their garments as ornaments, and not +for the useful purpose for which buttons are made, the men now +proceeded to cut from their shabby United States uniforms those +desired articles, and thus formed a new fund for trading purposes. +To these they added some eye-water, some basilicon, and a few small +tin boxes in which phosphorus had been kept. Basilicon, of which +mention is frequently made in the journal, was an ointment composed +of black pitch, white wax, resin, and olive oil; it was esteemed as a +sovereign remedy for all diseases requiring an outward application. +With these valuables two men were sent out to trade with the Indians, +on the second day of June, and they returned with three bushels +of eatable roots and some cowas bread. Later in that day, +a party that had been sent down the river (Lewis') in quest of food, +returned with a goodly supply of roots and seventeen salmon. +These fish, although partly spoiled by the long journey home, +gave great satisfaction to the hungry adventurers, for they were +the promise of a plenty to come when the salmon should ascend +the rivers that make into the Columbia. At this time we find +the following interesting story in the journal of the expedition:-- + +"We had lately heard, also, that some Indians, residing at +a considerable distance, on the south side of the Kooskooskee, +were in possession of two tomahawks, one of which had been left +at our camp on Moscheto Creek, and the other had been stolen +while we were with the Chopunnish in the autumn. This last we +were anxious to obtain, in order to give it to the relations of our +unfortunate companion, Sergeant Floyd,[1] to whom it once belonged. +We therefore sent Drewyer, with the two chiefs Neeshnepahkeeook +and Hohastillpilp (who had returned to us) to demand it. +On their arrival, they found that the present possessor +of it, who had purchased it of the thief, was at the point +of death; and his relations were unwilling to give it up, +as they wished to bury it in the grave with the deceased. +The influence of Neeshnepahkeeook, however, at length prevailed; +and they consented to surrender the tomahawk on receiving two +strands of beads and a handkerchief from Drewyer, and from each +of the chiefs a horse, to be killed at the funeral of their kinsman, +according to the custom of the country." + + +[1] See page 23. + + +The Chopunnish chiefs now gave their final answer to the two +captains who had requested guides from them. The chiefs said +that they could not accompany the party, but later in the summer +they might cross the great divide and spend the next winter +on the headwaters of the Missouri. At present, they could only +promise that some of their young men should go with the whites; +these had not been selected, but they would be sent on after +the party, if the two captains insisted on starting now. +This was not very encouraging, for they had depended upon +the Indians for guidance over the exceedingly difficult and +even dangerous passages of the mountains. Accordingly, it was +resolved that, while waiting on the motions of the Indians, +the party might as well make a visit to Quamash flats, where they +could lay in a stock of provisions for their arduous journey. +It is not certain which of the several Quamash flats mentioned +in the history of the expedition is here referred to; +but it is likely that the open glade in which Captain Clark +first struck the low country of the west is here meant. +It was here that he met the Indian boys hiding in the grass, +and from here he led the expedition out of the wilderness. +For "quamash" read "camass," an edible root much prized +by the Nez Perces then and now. + +While they lingered at their camp, they were visited +by several bands of friendly Indians. The explorers traded +horses with their visitors, and, with what they already had, +they now found their band to number sixty-five, all told. +Having finished their trading, they invited the Indians +to take part in the games of prisoners' base and foot-racing; +in the latter game the Indians were very expert, being able +to distance the fleetest runner of the white men's party. +At night, the games were concluded by a dance. The account +of the expedition says that the captains were desirous of +encouraging these exercises before they should begin the passage +over the mountains, "as several of the men are becoming +lazy from inaction." + +On the tenth of June the party set out for Quamash flats, each man +well mounted and leading a spare horse which carried a small load. +To their dismay, they found that their good friends, the Chopunnish, +unwilling to part with them, were bound to accompany them +to the hunting-grounds. The Indians would naturally expect +to share in the hunt and to be provided for by the white men. +The party halted there only until the sixth of June, and then, +collecting their horses, set out through what proved to be +a very difficult trail up the creek on which they were camped, +in a northeasterly direction. There was still a quantity of snow +on the ground, although this was in shady places and hollows. +Vegetation was rank, and the dogtooth violet, honeysuckle, +blue-bell, and columbine were in blossom. The pale blue flowers of +the quamash gave to the level country the appearance of a blue lake. +Striking Hungry Creek, which Captain Clark had very appropriately +named when he passed that way, the previous September, +they followed it up to a mountain for about three miles, +when they found themselves enveloped in snow; their limbs +were benumbed, and the snow, from twelve to fifteen feet deep, +so paralyzed their feet that further progress was impossible. +Here the journal should be quoted:-- + +"We halted at the sight of this new difficulty. We already knew +that to wait till the snows of the mountains had dissolved, +so as to enable us to distinguish the road, would defeat +our design of returning to the United States this season. +We now found also that as the snow bore our horses very well, +travelling was infinitely easier than it was last fall, +when the rocks and fallen timber had so much obstructed our march. +But it would require five days to reach the fish-weirs at the mouth +of Colt [-killed] Creek, even if we were able to follow the proper +ridges of the mountains; and the danger of missing our direction +is exceedingly great while every track is covered with snow. +During these five days, too, we have no chance of finding either +grass or underwood for our horses, the snow being so deep. +To proceed, therefore, under such circumstances, would be to hazard our +being bewildered in the mountains, and to insure the loss of our horses; +even should we be so fortunate as to escape with our lives, +we might be obliged to abandon all our papers and collections. +It was therefore decided not to venture any further; to deposit here +all the baggage and provisions for which we had no immediate use; +and, reserving only subsistence for a few days, to return while our +horses were yet strong to some spot where we might live by hunting, +till a guide could be procured to conduct us across the mountains. +Our baggage was placed on scaffolds and carefully covered, +as were also the instruments and papers, which we thought it safer +to leave than to risk over the roads and creeks by which we came." + +There was nothing left to do but to return to Hungry Creek. Finding a +scanty supply of grass, they camped under most depressing circumstances; +their outlook now was the passing of four or five days in the midst of snows +from ten to fifteen feet deep, with no guide, no road, and no forage. +In this emergency, two men were sent back to the Chopunnish country +to hurry up the Indians who had promised to accompany them over +the mountains; and, to insure a guide, these men were authorized +to offer a rifle as a reward for any one who would undertake the task. +For the present, it was thought best to return to Quamash flats. + + + +Chapter XXIII + +Crossing the Bitter Root Mountains + +Disasters many kept pace with the unhappy explorers on their +way back to Quamash flats after their rebuff at the base +of the Bitter Root Mountains. One of the horses fell +down a rough and rocky place, carrying his rider with him; +but fortunately neither horse nor man was killed. Next, a man, +sent ahead to cut down the brush that blocked the path, +cut himself badly on the inside of his thigh and bled copiously. +The hunters sent out for game returned empty-handed. The fishermen +caught no fish, but broke the two Indian gigs, or contrivances +for catching fish, with which they had been provided. +The stock of salt had given out, the bulk of their supply having +been left on the mountain. Several large mushrooms were brought +in by Cruzatte, but these were eaten without pepper, salt, or any kind +of grease,--"a very tasteless, insipid food," as the journal says. +To crown all, the mosquitoes were pestilential in their +numbers and venom. + +Nevertheless, the leaders of the expedition were determined to press on +and pass the Bitter Root Mountains as soon as a slight rest at Quamash flats +should be had. If they should tarry until the snows melted from the trail, +they would be too late to reach the United States that winter and would +be compelled to pass the next winter at some camp high up on the Missouri, +as they had passed one winter at Fort Mandan, on their way out. +This is the course of argument which Captain Lewis and Clark took to persuade +each other as to the best way out of their difficulties:-- + +"The snows have formed a hard, coarse bed without crust, on which the horses +walk safely without slipping; the chief difficulty, therefore, is to +find the road. In this we may be assisted by the circumstance that, +though generally ten feet in depth, the snow has been thrown off by +the thick and spreading branches of the trees, and from round the trunk; +while the warmth of the trunk itself, acquired by the reflection of the sun, +or communicated by natural heat of the earth, which is never frozen under +these masses, has dissolved the snow so much that immediately at the roots +its depth is not more than one or two feet. We therefore hope that +the marks of the baggage rubbing against the trees may still be perceived; +and we have decided, in case the guide cannot be procured, that one of us will +take three or four of our most expert woodsmen, several of our best horses, +and an ample supply of provisions, go on two days' journey in advance, +and endeavor to trace the route by the marks of the Indian baggage on +the trees, which we would then mark more distinctly with a tomahawk. +When they should have reached two days' journey beyond Hungry Creek, +two of the men were to be sent back to apprise the rest of their success, +and if necessary to cause them to delay there; lest, by advancing too soon, +they should be forced to halt where no food could be obtained for the horses. +If the traces of the baggage be too indistinct, the whole party is to return +to Hungry Creek, and we will then attempt the passage by ascending the main +southwest branch of Lewis' River through the country of the Shoshonees, +over to Madison or Gallatin River. On that route, the Chopunnish inform us, +there is a passage not obstructed by snow at this period of the year." + +On their return to Quamash flats the party met two Indians who, +after some parley, agreed to pilot them over the mountains; +these camped where they were, and the party went on to the flats, +having exacted a promise from the Indians that they would +wait there two nights for the white men to come along. +When the party reached their old camp, they found that one of +their hunters had killed a deer, which was a welcome addition +to their otherwise scanty supper. Next day, the hunters met with +astonishing luck, bringing into camp eight deer and three bears. +Four of the men were directed to go to the camp of the two Indians, +and if these were bent on going on, to accompany them and so mark, +or blaze, the trees that the rest of the party would have no +difficulty in finding the way, later on. + +Meanwhile, the men who had been sent back for guides returned, +bringing with them the pleasing information that three Indians +whom they brought with them had consented to guide the party +to the great falls of the Missouri, for the pay of two guns. +Accordingly, once more (June 26), they set out for +the mountains, travelling for the third time in twelve days +the route between Quamash flats and the Bitter Root range. +For the second time they ran up against a barrier of snow. +They measured the depth of the snow at the place where they +had left their luggage at their previous repulse and found +it to be ten feet and ten inches deep; and it had sunk +four feet since they had been turned back at this point. +Pressing on, after they reached their old camp, they found +a bare spot on the side of the mountain where there was a little +grass for their horses; and there they camped for the night. +They were fortunate in having Indian guides with them; +and the journal says:-- + +"The marks on the trees, which had been our chief dependence, +are much fewer and more difficult to be distinguished than we +had supposed. But our guides traverse this trackless region +with a kind of instinctive sagacity; they never hesitate, +they are never embarrassed; and so undeviating is their step, +that wherever the snow has disappeared, for even a hundred paces, +we find the summer road. With their aid the snow is scarcely +a disadvantage; for though we are often obliged to slip down, +yet the fallen timber and the rocks, which are now covered, +were much more troublesome when we passed in the autumn. +Travelling is indeed comparatively pleasant, as well as more rapid, +the snow being hard and coarse, without a crust, and perfectly hard +enough to prevent the horses sinking more than two or three inches. +After the sun has been on it for some hours it becomes softer +than it is early in the morning; yet they are almost always +able to get a sure foothold." + +On the twenty-ninth of June the party were well out of the snows +in which they had been imprisoned, although they were by no means +over the mountain barrier that had been climbed so painfully during +the past few days. Here they observed the tracks of two barefooted +Indians who had evidently been fleeing from their enemies, +the Pahkees. These signs disturbed the Indian guides, +for they at once said that the tracks were made by their friends, +the Ootlashoots, and that the Pahkees would also cut them +(the guides) off on their return from the trip over the mountains. +On the evening of the day above mentioned, the party camped at +the warm springs which fall into Traveller's-rest Creek, a point +now well known to the explorers, who had passed that way before. +Of the springs the journal says:-- + +"These warm springs are situated at the foot of a hill on the north +side of Traveller's-rest Creek, which is ten yards wide at this place. +They issue from the bottoms, and through the interstices of a gray +freestone rock, which rises in irregular masses round their lower side. +The principal spring, which the Indians have formed into a bath by +stopping the run with stone and pebbles, is about the same temperature +as the warmest bath used at the hot springs in Virginia. On trying, +Captain Lewis could with difficulty remain in it nineteen minutes, +and then was affected with a profuse perspiration. +The two other springs are much hotter, the temperature being equal +to that of the warmest of the hot springs in Virginia. Our men, +as well as the Indians, amused themselves with going into the bath; +the latter, according to their universal custom, going first into +the hot bath, where they remain as long as they can bear the heat, +then plunging into the creek, which is now of an icy coldness, +and repeating this operation several times, but always ending +with the warm bath." + +Traveller's-rest Creek, it will be recollected, is on the summit +of the Bitter Root Mountains, and the expedition had consequently +passed from Idaho into Montana, as these States now exist on the map; +but they were still on the Pacific side of the Great Divide, +or the backbone of the continent. Much game was seen in this region, +and after reaching Traveller's-rest Creek, the hunters killed six deer; +great numbers of elk and bighorn were also seen in this vicinity. +On the thirtieth of July the party were at their old camp of September +9 and 10, 1805, having made one hundred and fifty-six miles from +Quamash flats to the mouth of the creek where they now camped. +Here a plan to divide and subdivide the party was made out as follows:-- + +"Captain Lewis, with nine men, is to pursue the most direct +route to the falls of the Missouri, where three of his party +[Thompson, Goodrich, and McNeal] are to be left to prepare carriages +for transporting the baggage and canoes across the portage. +With the remaining six, he will ascend Maria's River to explore +the country and ascertain whether any branch of it reaches as far north +as latitude 50'0, after which he will descend that river to its mouth. +The rest of the men will accompany Captain Clark to the head +of Jefferson River, which Sergeant Ordway and a party of nine men +will descend, with the canoes and other articles deposited there. +Captain Clark's party, which will then be reduced to ten men +and Sacajawea, will proceed to the Yellowstone, at its nearest approach +to the Three Forks of the Missouri. There he will build canoes, +go down that river with seven of his party, and wait at its mouth till +the rest of the party join him. Sergeant Pryor, with two others, +will then take the horses by land to the Mandans. From that nation +he will go to the British posts on the Assiniboin with a letter +to Mr. Alexander Henry, to procure his endeavors to prevail on some +of the Sioux chiefs to accompany him to the city of Washington. +. . . . . . . . . + +The Indians who had accompanied us intended leaving us in order +to seek their friends, the Ootlashoots; but we prevailed on them +to accompany Captain Lewis a part of his route, so as to show him +the shortest road to the Missouri, and in the mean time amused +them with conversation and running races, on foot and with horses, +in both of which they proved themselves hardy, athletic, and active. +To the chief Captain Lewis gave a small medal and a gun, +as a reward for having guided us across the mountains; in return +the customary civility of exchanging names passed between them, +by which the former acquired the title of Yomekollick, +of White Bearskin Unfolded." + + + +Chapter XXIV + +The Expedition Subdivided + +On the third of July, accordingly, Captain Lewis, with nine of his men +and five Indians, proceeded down the valley lying between the Rocky and +the Bitter Root ranges of mountains, his general course being due northwest +of Clark's fork of the Columbia River. Crossing several small streams that +make into this river, they finally reached and crossed the Missoula River from +west to east, below the confluence of the St. Mary's and Hell-gate rivers, +or creeks; for these streams hardly deserve the name of rivers. +The party camped for the night within a few miles of the site of the present +city of Missoula, Montana. Here they were forced to part from their good +friends and allies, the Indians, who had crossed the range with them. +These men were afraid that they would be cut off by their foes, the Pahkees, +and they wanted to find and join some band of the Indian nation with whom they +were on terms of friendship. The journal gives this account of the parting:-- + +"We now smoked a farewell pipe with our estimable companions, +who expressed every emotion of regret at parting with us; +which they felt the more, because they did not conceal their +fears of our being cut off by the Pahkees. We also gave them +a shirt, a handkerchief, and a small quantity of ammunition. +The meat which they received from us was dried and left +at this place, as a store during the homeward journey. +This circumstance confirms our belief that there is no route +along Clark's River to the Columbian plains so near or so good +as that by which we came; for, though these people mean to go +for several days' journey down that river, to look for the +Shalees [Ootlashoots], yet they intend returning home by the same +pass of the mountains through which they have conducted us. +This route is also used by all the nations whom we know west +of the mountains who are in the habit of visiting the plains +of the Missouri; while on the other side, all the war-paths +of the Pahkees which fall into this valley of Clark's River +concentre at Traveller's-rest, beyond which these people have +never ventured to the west." + +During the next day or two, Captain Lewis kept on the same +general course through a well-watered country, the ground +gradually rising as be approached the base of the mountains. +Tracks of Indians, supposed to be Pahkees, became more +numerous and fresh. On the seventh of July, the little +company went through the famous pass of the Rocky Mountains, +now properly named for the leaders of the expedition. +Here is the journal's account of their finding the Lewis +and Clark Pass:-- + +"At the distance of twelve miles we left the river, or rather +the creek, and having for four miles crossed two ridges in a +direction north fifteen degrees east, again struck to the right, +proceeding through a narrow bottom covered with low willows +and grass, and abundantly supplied with both deer and beaver. +After travelling seven miles we reached the foot of a ridge, which we +ascended in a direction north forty-five degrees east, through a +low gap of easy ascent from the westward; and, on descending it, +were delighted at discovering that this was the dividing ridge between +the waters of the Columbia and those of the Missouri. From this gap +Fort Mountain is about twenty miles in a northeastern direction. +We now wound through the hills and mountains, passing several +rivulets which ran to the right, and at the distance of nine +miles from the gap encamped, having made thirty-two miles. +We procured some beaver, and this morning saw tracks of buffalo, +from which it appears that those animals do sometimes penetrate +a short distance among the mountains." + +Next day the party found themselves in clover, so to speak. +Game was plenty, and, as their object now was to accumulate +meat for the three men who were to be left at the falls +(and who were not hunters), they resolved to strike the Medicine, +or Sun, River and hunt down its banks. On that river the journal, +July 10, has this to say:-- + +"In the plains are great quantities of two species of +prickly-pear now in bloom. Gooseberries of the common red kind +are in abundance and just beginning to ripen, but there are +no currants. The river has now widened to one hundred yards; +it is deep, crowded with islands, and in many parts rapid. +At the distance of seventeen miles, the timber disappears +totally from the river-bottoms. About this part of the river, +the wind, which had blown on our backs, and constantly put +the elk on their guard, shifted round; we then shot three of +them and a brown bear. Captain Lewis halted to skin them, +while two of the men took the pack-horses forward to seek +for a camp. It was nine o'clock before he overtook them, +at the distance of seven miles, in the first grove of cottonwood. +They had been pursued as they came along by a very large bear, +on which they were afraid to fire, lest their horses, +being unaccustomed to the gun, might take fright and throw them. +This circumstance reminds us of the ferocity of these animals, +when we were last near this place, and admonishes us to be +very cautious. We saw vast numbers of buffalo below us, +which kept up a dreadful bellowing during the night. +With all our exertions we were unable to advance more than +twenty-four miles, owing to the mire through which we are obliged +to travel, in consequence of the rain." + +The Sun, or Medicine, River empties into the Missouri just above the great +falls of that stream; and near here, opposite White Bear Islands, +the expedition had deposited some of their property in a cache +dug near the river bank, when they passed that way, a year before. +On the thirteenth of the month, having reached their old +camping-ground here, the party set to work making boat-gear and +preparing to leave their comrades in camp well fixed for their stay. +The journal adds:-- + +"On opening the cache, we found the bearskins entirely destroyed +by the water, which in a flood of the river had penetrated to them. +All the specimens of plants, too, were unfortunately lost: +the chart of the Missouri, however, still remained unhurt, and several +articles contained in trunks and boxes had suffered but little injury; +but a vial of laudanum had lost its stopper, and the liquid had run +into a drawer of medicines, which it spoiled beyond recovery. +The mosquitoes were so troublesome that it was impossible even to +write without a mosquito bier. The buffalo were leaving us fast, +on their way to the southeast." + +One of the party met with an amusing adventure here, which is thus described:-- + +"At night M'Neal, who had been sent in the morning to examine +the cache at the lower end of the portage, returned; but had +been prevented from reaching that place by a singular adventure. +Just as he arrived near Willow run, he approached a thicket +of brush in which was a white bear, which he did not discover till +he was within ten feet of him. His horse started, and wheeling +suddenly round, threw M'Neal almost immediately under the bear, +which started up instantly. Finding the bear raising himself +on his hind feet to attack him, he struck him on the head with +the butt end of his musket; the blow was so violent that it broke +the breech of the musket and knocked the bear to the ground. +Before he recovered M'Neal, seeing a willow-tree close by, +sprang up, and there remained while the bear closely guarded +the foot of the tree until late in the afternoon. He then went off; +M'Neal being released came down, and having found his horse, +which had strayed off to the distance of two miles, returned to camp. +These animals are, indeed, of a most extraordinary ferocity, +and it is matter of wonder that in all our encounters we have had +the good fortune to escape. We are now troubled with another enemy, +not quite so dangerous, though even more disagreeable-these +are the mosquitoes, who now infest us in such myriads that we +frequently get them into our throats when breathing, and the dog +even howls with the torture they occasion." + +The intention of Captain Lewis was to reach the river sometimes +known as Maria's, and sometimes as Marais, or swamp. This stream +rises near the boundary between Montana and the British possessions, +and flows into the Missouri, where the modern town of Ophir is built. +The men left at the great falls were to dig up the canoes and baggage +that had been cached there the previous year, and be ready to carry around +the portage of the falls the stuff that would be brought from the two +forks of the Jefferson, later on, by Sergeant Ordway and his party. +It will be recollected that this stuff had also been cached at the forks +of the Jefferson, the year before. The two parties, thus united, +were to go down to the entrance of Maria's River into the Missouri, +and Captain Lewis expected to join them there by the fifth of August; +if he failed to meet them by that time, they were to go on down the river +and meet Captain Clark at the mouth of the Yellowstone. This explanation +is needed to the proper understanding of the narrative that follows; +for we now have to keep track of three parties of the explorers. + +Captain Lewis and his men, having travelled northwest about twenty +miles from the great falls of the Missouri, struck the trail of a +wounded buffalo. They were dismayed by the sight, for that assured +them that there were Indians in the vicinity; and the most natural +thing to expect was that these were Blackfeet, or Minnetarees; +both of these tribes are vicious and rascally people, and they would +not hesitate to attack a small party and rob them of their guns, +if they thought themselves able to get away with them. + +They were now in the midst of vast herds of buffalo, so numerous that the +whole number seemed one immense herd. Hanging on the flanks were many wolves; +hares and antelope were also abundant. On the fourth day out, Captain Lewis +struck the north fork of Maria's River, now known as Cut-bank River, +in the northwest corner of Montana. He was desirous of following up +the stream, to ascertain, if possible, whether its fountain-head was below, +or above, the boundary between the United States and the British possessions. +Bad weather and an accident to his chronometer prevented his accomplishing +his purpose, and, on the twenty-sixth of July, he turned reluctantly back, +giving the name of Cape Disappointment to his last camping-place. +Later in that day, as they were travelling down the main stream +(Maria's River), they encountered the Indians whom they had hoped to avoid. +Let us read the story as it is told in the journal of the party:-- + +"At the distance of three miles we ascended the hills close +to the river-side, while Drewyer pursued the valley of the river +on the opposite side. But scarcely had Captain Lewis reached +the high plain when he saw, about a mile on his left, +a collection of about thirty horses. He immediately halted, +and by the aid of his spy-glass discovered that one-half +of the horses were saddled, and that on the eminence above +the horses several Indians were looking down toward the river, +probably at Drewyer. This was a most unwelcome sight. +Their probable numbers rendered any contest with them of +doubtful issue; to attempt to escape would only invite pursuit, +and our horses were so bad that we must certainly be overtaken; +besides which, Drewyer could not yet be aware that the Indians +were near, and if we ran be would most probably be sacrificed. +We therefore determined to make the most of our situation, +and advance toward them in a friendly manner. The flag which we +had brought in case of any such accident was therefore displayed, +and we continued slowly our march toward them. Their whole attention +was so engaged by Drewyer that they did not immediately discover us. +As soon as they did see us, they appeared to be much alarmed +and ran about in confusion; some of them came down the hill +and drove their horses within gunshot of the eminence, +to which they then returned, as if to await our arrival. +When we came within a quarter of a mile, one of the Indians +mounted and rode at full speed to receive us; but when within +a hundred paces of us, he halted. Captain Lewis, who had alighted +to receive him, held out his hand and beckoned to him to approach; +he only looked at us for some time, and then, without saying a word, +returned to his companions with as much baste as be had advanced. +The whole party now descended the hill and rode toward us. +As yet we saw only eight, but presumed that there must +be more behind us, as there were several horses saddled. +We however advanced, and Captain Lewis now told his two men +that he believed these were the Minnetarees of Fort de Prairie, +who, from their infamous character, would in all probability +attempt to rob us; but being determined to die rather than +lose his papers and instruments, he intended to resist to +the last extremity, and advised them to do the same, and to be +on the alert should there be any disposition to attack us. +When the two parties came within a hundred yards of each other, +all the Indians, except one, halted. Captain Lewis therefore +ordered his two men to halt while be advanced, and after shaking +hands with the Indian, went on and did the same with the others +in the rear, while the Indian himself shook hands with the two men. +They all now came up; and after alighting, the Indians asked +to smoke with us. Captain Lewis, who was very anxious for +Drewyer's safety, told them that the man who had gone down +the river had the pipe, and requested that as they had seen him, +one of them would accompany R. Fields, to bring him back. +To this they assented, and Fields went with a young man +in search of Drewyer." + +Captain Lewis now asked them by signs if they were Minnetarees of the north, +and he was sorry to be told in reply that they were; he knew them to be +a bad lot. When asked if they had any chief among them, they pointed +out three. The captain did not believe them, but, in order to keep on good +terms with them, he gave to one a flag, to another a medal, and to the third +a handkerchief. At Captain Lewis' suggestion, the Indians and the white +men camped together, and in the course of the evening the red men told +the captain that they were part of a big band of their tribe, or nation. +The rest of the tribe, they said, were hunting further up the river, +and were then in camp near the foot of the Rocky Mountains. The captain, +in return, told them that his party had come from the great lake +where the sun sets, and that he was in hopes that he could induce +the Minnetarees to live in peace with their neighbors and come and trade +at the posts that would be established in their country by and by. +He offered them ten horses and some tobacco if they would accompany his +party down the river below the great falls. To this they made no reply. +Being still suspicious of these sullen guests, Captain Lewis made his +dispositions for the night, with orders for the sentry on duty to rouse +all hands if the Indians should attempt to steal anything in the night. +Next morning trouble began. Says the journal:-- + +"At sunrise, the Indians got up and crowded around the fire near +which J. Fields, who was then on watch, had carelessly left +his rifle, near the head of his brother, who was still asleep. +One of the Indians slipped behind him, and, unperceived, took his +brother's and his own rifle, while at the same time two others seized +those of Drewyer and Captain Lewis. As soon as Fields turned, +he saw the Indian running off with the rifles; instantly calling +his brother, they pursued him for fifty or sixty yards; +just as they overtook him, in the scuffle for the rifles +R. Fields stabbed him through the heart with his knife. +The Indian ran about fifteen steps and fell dead. They now ran +back with their rifles to the camp. The moment the fellow touched +his gun, Drewyer, who was awake, jumped up and wrested it from him. +The noise awoke Captain Lewis, who instantly started from the ground +and reached for his gun; but finding it gone, drew a pistol +from his belt, and turning saw the Indian running off with it. +He followed him and ordered him to lay it down, which he did +just as the two Fields came up, and were taking aim to shoot him; +when Captain Lewis ordered them not to fire, as the Indian did not +appear to intend any mischief. He dropped the gun and was going +slowly off when Drewyer came out and asked permission to kill him; +but this Captain Lewis forbade, as he had not yet attempted to shoot us. +But finding that the Indians were now endeavoring to drive off all +the horses, he ordered all three of us to follow the main party, +who were chasing the horses up the river, and fire instantly upon +the thieves; while he, without taking time to run for his shot-pouch, +pursued the fellow who had stolen his gun and another Indian, +who were driving away the horses on the left of the camp. +He pressed them so closely that they left twelve of their horses, +but continued to drive off one of our own. + +"At the distance of three hundred paces they entered a steep niche +in the river-bluffs, when Captain Lewis, being too much out of breath +to pursue them any further, called out, as he had done several +times before, that unless they gave up the horse he would shoot them. +As he raised his gun one of the Indians jumped behind a rock and +spoke to the other, who stopped at the distance of thirty paces. +Captain Lewis shot him in the belly. He fell on his knees and +right elbow; but, raising himself a little, fired, and then crawled +behind a rock. The shot had nearly proved fatal; for Captain Lewis, +who was bareheaded, felt the wind of the ball very distinctly. +Not having his shot-pouch, be could not reload his rifle; and, having only +a single charge also for his pistol, he thought it most prudent +not to attack them farther, and retired slowly to the camp. +He was met by Drewyer, who, hearing the report of the guns, +had come to his assistance, leaving the Fields to follow the +other Indians. Captain Lewis ordered him to call out to them to desist +from the pursuit, as we could take the horses of the Indians in place +of our own; but they were at too great a distance to hear him. +He therefore returned to the camp, and while he was saddling the horses +the Fields returned with four of our own, having followed the Indians +until two of them swam the river and two others ascended the hills, +so that the horses became dispersed." + +The white men were gainers by this sad affair, for they had now in their +possession four of the Indians' horses, and had lost one of their own. +Besides these, they found in the camp of the Indians four shields, +two bows and their quivers, and one of their two guns. +The captain took some buffalo meat which be found in the camp, +and then the rest of their baggage was burned on the spot. +The flag given to one of the so-called chiefs was retaken; +but the medal given to the dead man was left around his neck. +The consequences of this unfortunate quarrel were far-reaching. +The tribe whose member was killed by the white men never forgave +the injury, and for years after there was no safety for white men +in their vicinity except when the wayfarers were in great numbers +or strongly guarded. + +A forced march was now necessary for the explorers, and they set out as +speedily as possible, well knowing that the Indians would be on their trail. +By three o'clock in the afternoon of that day they had reached +Tansy River, now known as the Teton, having travelled sixty-three miles. +They rested for an hour and a half to refresh their horses, +and then pushed on for seventeen miles further before camping again. +Having killed a buffalo, they had supper and stopped two hours. +Then, travelling through vast herds of buffalo until two o'clock +in the morning, they halted again, almost dead with fatigue; +they rested until daylight. On awaking, they found themselves +so stiff and sore with much riding that they could scarcely stand. +But the lives of their friends now at or near the mouth of Maria's River +were at stake, as well as their own. Indeed, it was not certain +but that the Indians had, by hard riding and a circuitous route, +already attacked the river party left at the falls. +So Captain Lewis told his men that they must go on, and, if attacked, +they must tie their horses together by the head and stand together, +selling their lives as dearly as possible, or routing their enemies. +The journal now says:-- + +"To this they all assented, and we therefore continued our route +to the eastward, till at the distance of twelve miles we came near +the Missouri, when we heard a noise which seemed like the report of a gun. +We therefore quickened our pace for eight miles farther, and, +being about five miles from Grog Spring, now heard distinctly +the noise of several rifles from the river. We hurried to the bank, +and saw with exquisite satisfaction our friends descending the river. +They landed to greet us, and after turning our horses loose, +we embarked with our baggage, and went down to the spot where we +had made a deposite. This, after reconnoitring the adjacent country, +we opened; but, unfortunately, the cache had caved in, +and most of the articles were injured. We took whatever was still +worth preserving, and immediately proceeded to the point, where we +found our deposits in good order. By a singular good fortune, +we were here joined by Sergeant Gass and Willard from the Falls, +who had been ordered to come with the horses here to assist in procuring +meat for the voyage, as it had been calculated that the canoes +would reach this place much sooner than Captain Lewis's party. +After a very heavy shower of rain and hail, attended with violent +thunder and lightning, we started from the point, and giving a final +discharge to our horses, went over to the island where we had left +our red pirogue, which, however, we found much decayed, and we had +no means of repairing her. We therefore took all the iron work out +of her, and, proceeding down the river fifteen miles, encamped near +some cottonwood trees, one of which was of the narrow-leafed species, +and the first of that kind we had remarked in ascending the river. + +"Sergeant Ordway's party, which had left the mouth of Madison River +on the thirteenth, had descended in safety to White Bear Island, +where he arrived on the nineteenth, and, after collecting the baggage, +had left the falls on the twenty-seventh in the white pirogue and +five canoes, while Sergeant Gass and Willard set out at the same time +by land with the horses, and thus fortunately met together." + +Sergeant Ordway's party, it will be recollected, had left +Captain Clark at the three forks of the Missouri, to which they +had come down the Jefferson, and thence had passed down +the Missouri to White Bear Islands, and, making the portage, +had joined the rest of the party just in time to reinforce them. +Game was now abundant the buffalo being in enormous herds; +and the bighorn were also numerous; the flesh of these animals +was in fine condition, resembling the best of mutton in flavor. +The reunited party now descended the river, the intention being +to reach the mouth of the Yellowstone as soon as possible, +and there wait for Captain Clark, who, it will be recalled, +was to explore that stream and meet them at the point of its +junction with the Missouri. The voyage of Captain Lewis and his men +was without startling incident, except that Cruzatte accidentally +shot the captain, one day, while they were out hunting. +The wound was through the fleshy part of the left thigh, +and for a time was very painful. As Cruzatte was not in sight +when the captain was hit, the latter naturally thought he had been +shot by Indians hiding in the thicket. He reached camp as best +he could, and, telling his men to arm themselves, he explained +that he had been shot by Indians. But when Cruzatte came into camp, +mutual explanations satisfied all hands that a misunderstanding +had arisen and that Cruzatte's unlucky shot was accidental. +As an example of the experience of the party about this time, +while they were on their way down the Missouri, we take this +extract from their journal:-- + +"We again saw great numbers of buffalo, elk, antelope, deer, +and wolves; also eagles and other birds, among which were geese +and a solitary pelican, neither of which can fly at present, +as they are now shedding the feathers of their wings. +We also saw several bears, one of them the largest, except one, +we had ever seen; for he measured nine feet from the nose +to the extremity of the tail. During the night a violent storm +came on from the northeast with such torrents of rain that we had +scarcely time to unload the canoes before they filled with water. +Having no shelter we ourselves were completely wet to the skin, +and the wind and cold air made our situation very unpleasant." + +On the twelfth of August, the Lewis party met with two traders +from Illinois. These men were camped on the northeast side +of the river; they had left Illinois the previous summer, +and had been coming up the Missouri hunting and trapping. +Captain Lewis learned from them that Captain Clark was below; +and later in that day the entire expedition was again united, +Captain Clark's party being found at a point near where +Little Knife Creek enters the Missouri River. We must now +take up the narrative of Captain Clark and his adventures +on the Yellowstone. + + + +Chapter XXV + +Adventures on the Yellowstone + +The route of Captain Clark from the point where he and Captain Lewis +divided their party, was rather more difficult than that pursued +by the Lewis detachment. But the Clark party was larger, +being composed of twenty men and Sacajawea and her baby. +They were to travel up the main fork of Clark's River +(sometimes called the Bitter Root), to Ross's Hole, and then +strike over the great continental divide at that point by way +of the pass which he discovered and which was named for him; +thence he was to strike the headwaters of Wisdom River, a stream +which this generation of men knows by the vulgar name of Big Hole River; +from this point he was to go by the way of Willard's Creek to +Shoshonee Cove and the Two Forks of the Jefferson, and thence down +that stream to the Three Forks of the Missouri, up the Gallatin, +and over the divide to the Yellowstone and down that river to its +junction with the Missouri, where he was to join the party of +Captain Lewis. This is the itinerary that was exactly carried out. +The very first incident set forth in the journal is a celebration +of Independence Day, as follows:-- + +"Friday, July 4. Early in the morning three hunters were +sent out. The rest of the party having collected the horses +and breakfasted, we proceeded at seven o'clock up the valley, +which is now contracted to the width of from eight to ten miles, +with a good proportion of pitch-pine, though its low lands, +as well as the bottoms of the creeks, are strewn with large stones. +We crossed five creeks of different sizes, but of great depth, +and so rapid that in passing the last several of the horses +were driven down the stream, and some of our baggage was wet. +Near this river we saw the tracks of two Indians, whom we supposed +to be Shoshonees. Having made sixteen miles, we halted at an hour +for the purpose of doing honor to the birthday of our early +country's independence. The festival was not very splendid, +for it consisted of a mush made of cows and a saddle of venison; +nor had we anything to tempt us to prolong it. We therefore +went on till at the distance of a mile we came to a very +large creek, which, like all those in the valley, had an immense +rapidity of descent; we therefore proceeded up for some distance, +in order to select the most convenient spot for fording. +Even there, however, such was the violence of the current that, +though the water was not higher than the bellies of the horses, +the resistance made in passing caused the stream to rise over their +backs and loads. After passing the creek we inclined to the left, +and soon after struck the road which we had descended last year, +near the spot where we dined on the 7th of September [1805]. +Along this road we continued on the west side of Clark's River, +till at the distance of thirteen miles, during which we passed +three more deep, large creeks, we reached its western branch, +where we camped; and having sent out two hunters, despatched some +men to examine the best ford across the west fork of the river. +The game to-day consisted of four deer; though we also saw a herd +of ibex, or bighorn." + +Two days later they were high up among the mountains, although the +ascent was not very steep. At that height they found the weather +very cool, so much so that on the morning of the sixth of July, +after a cold night, they had a heavy white frost on the ground. +Setting out on that day, Captain Clark crossed a ridge which proved +to be the dividing line between the Pacific and the Atlantic watershed. +At the same time he passed from what is now Missoula County, Montana, +into the present county of Beaver Head, in that State. "Beaver Head," +the reader will recollect, comes from a natural elevation in that +region resembling the head of a beaver. These points will serve +to fix in one's mind the route of the first exploring party that ever +ventured into those wilds; descending the ridge on its eastern slope, +the explorers struck Glade Creek, one of the sources of the stream +then named Wisdom River, a branch of the Jefferson; and the Jefferson +is one of the tributaries of the mighty Missouri. Next day the journal +has this entry:-- + +"In the morning our horses were so much scattered that, although we +sent out hunters in every direction to range the country for six or +eight miles, nine of them could not be recovered. They were the most +valuable of all our horses, and so much attached to some of their +companions that it was difficult to separate them in the daytime. +We therefore presumed that they must have been stolen by some roving Indians; +and accordingly left a party of five men to continue the pursuit, +while the rest went on to the spot where the canoes had been deposited. +We set out at ten o'clock and pursued a course S. 56'0 E. across the valley, +which we found to be watered by four large creeks, with extensive +low and miry bottoms; and then reached [and crossed] Wisdom River, +along the northeast side of which we continued, till at the distance +of sixteen miles we came to its three branches. Near that place +we stopped for dinner at a hot spring situated in the open plain. +The bed of the spring is about fifteen yards in circumference, +and composed of loose, hard, gritty stones, through which the water +boils in great quantities. It is slightly impregnated with sulphur, +and so hot that a piece of meat about the size of three fingers was +completely done in twenty-five minutes." + +Next day, July 8, the party reached the forks of the Jefferson River, +where they had cached their goods in August, 1805; they had now travelled +one hundred and sixty-four miles from Traveller's-rest Creek to that point. +The men were out of tobacco, and as there was some among the goods +deposited in the cache they made haste to open the cache. +They found everything safe, although some of the articles were damp, +and a hole had been made in the bottom of one of the canoes. +Here they were overtaken by Sergeant Ordway and his party with the nine +horses that had escaped during the night of the seventh. + +That night the weather was so cold that water froze in a basin to a +thickness of three-quarters of an inch, and the grass around the camp +was stiff with frost, although the month of July was nearly a week old. +The boats taken from the cache were now loaded, and the explorers +were divided into two bands, one to descend the river by boat and +the other to take the same general route on horseback, the objective +point being the Yellowstone. The story is taken tip here by the journal +in these lines:-- + +"After breakfast [July 10] the two parties set out, those on shore +skirting the eastern side of Jefferson River, through Service [-berry] +Valley and over Rattlesnake Mountain, into a beautiful and extensive +country, known among the Indians by the name of Hahnahappapchah, +or Beaverhead Valley, from the number of those animals to be found in it, +and also from the point of land resembling the head of a beaver. +It [the valley] extends from Rattlesnake Mountain as low as +Frazier's Creek, and is about fifty miles in length in direct line; +while its width varies from ten to fifteen miles, being watered +in its whole course by Jefferson River and six different creeks. +The valley is open and fertile; besides the innumerable quantities +of beaver and otter with which its creeks are supplied, the bushes +of the low grounds are a favorite resort for deer; while on the higher +parts of the valley are seen scattered groups of antelopes, +and still further, on the steep sides of the mountains, are observed +many bighorns, which take refuge there from the wolves and bears. +At the distance of fifteen miles the two parties stopped to dine; +when Captain Clark, finding that the river became wider and deeper, +and that the canoes could advance more rapidly than the horses, +determined to go himself by water, leaving Sergeant Pryor with six men +to bring on the horses. In this way they resumed their journey after dinner, +and camped on the eastern side of the river, opposite the head of +Three-thousand-mile Island. The beaver were basking in great numbers +along the shore; there were also some young wild geese and ducks. +The mosquitoes were very troublesome during the day, but after sunset +the weather became cool and they disappeared." + +Three-thousand-mile Island was so named by the explorers, when they +ascended these streams, because it was at a point exactly three thousand +miles from the mouth of the Missouri. But no such island exists now; +it has probably been worn away by the swift-rushing current of the river. +The route of Captain Clark and his party, up to this time had been a few +miles west of Bannock City, Montana. As the captain was now to proceed +by land to the Yellowstone, again leaving the canoe party, it is well +to recall the fact that his route from the Three Forks of the Missouri +to the Yellowstone follows pretty nearly the present line of the railroad +from Gallatin City to Livingston, by the way of Bozeman Pass. Of this +route the journal says:-- + +"Throughout the whole, game was very abundant. They procured deer +in the low grounds; beaver and otter were seen in Gallatin River, +and elk, wolves, eagles, hawks, crows, and geese at different parts +of the route. The plain was intersected by several great roads +leading to a gap in the mountains, about twenty miles distant, +in a direction E.N.E.; but the Indian woman, who was acquainted +with the country, recommended a gap more to the southward. +This course Captain Clark determined to pursue." + +Let us pause here to pay a little tribute to the memory of "the +Indian woman," Sacajawea. She showed that she was very observant, +had a good memory, and was plucky and determined when in trouble. +She was the guide of the exploring party when she was in a +region of country, as here, with which she was familiar. +She remembered localities which she had not seen since her childhood. +When their pirogue was upset by the carelessness of her husband, +it was she who saved the goods and helped to right the boat. +And, with her helpless infant clinging to her, she rode with +the men, guiding them with unerring skill through the mountain +fastnesses and lonely passes which the white men saw for +the first time when their salient features were pointed out +to them by the intelligent and faithful Sacajawea. The Indian +woman has long since departed to the Happy Hunting-Grounds +of her fathers; only her name and story remain to us who follow +the footsteps of the brave pioneers of the western continent. +But posterity should not forget the services which were rendered +to the white race by Sacajawea. + +On the fifteenth of July the party arrived at the ridge that divides +the Missouri and the Yellowstone, nine miles from which they reached +the river itself, about a mile and a half from the point where it issues +from the Rocky Mountains. Their journey down the valley of the Yellowstone +was devoid of special interest, but was accompanied with some hardships. +For example, the feet of the horses had become so sore with long travel +over a stony trail that it was necessary to shoe them with raw buffalo hide. +Rain fell frequently and copiously; and often, sheltered at night +only by buffalo hides, they rose in the morning drenched to the skin. +The party could not follow the course of the river very closely, +but were compelled often to cross hills that came down to the bank, +making the trail impassable for horses. Here is the story of July +18 and 19:-- + +"Gibson, one of the party, was so badly hurt by falling on a sharp point +of wood that he was unable to sit on his horse, and they were obliged to form +a sort of litter for him, so that he could lie nearly at full length. +The wound became so painful, however, after proceeding a short distance, +that he could not bear the motion, and they left him with two men, +while Captain Clark went to search for timber large enough to form canoes. +He succeeded in finding some trees of sufficient size for small canoes, +two of which he determined to construct, and by lashing them together hoped +to make them answer the purpose of conveying the party down the river, +while a few of his men should conduct the horses to the Mandans. All hands, +therefore, were set busily to work, and they were employed in this +labor for several days. In the mean time no less than twenty-four +of their horses were missing, and they strongly suspected had been stolen +by the Indians, for they were unable to find them, notwithstanding they +made the most diligent search." + +"July 23. A piece of a robe and a moccasin," says the journal, +"were discovered this morning not far from the camp. +The moccasin was worn out in the sole, and yet wet, and had +every appearance of having been left but a few hours before. +This was conclusive that the Indians had taken our horses, and were +still prowling about for the remainder, which fortunately escaped +last night by being in a small prairie surrounded by thick timber. +At length Labiche, one of our best trackers, returned from a +very wide circuit, and informed Captain Clark that he had traced +the horses bending their course rather down the river towards +the open plains, and from their tracks, must have been going +very rapidly. All hopes of recovering them were now abandoned. +Nor were the Indians the only plunderers around our camp; +for in the night the wolves or dogs stole the greater part of +the dried meat from the scaffold. The wolves, which constantly +attend the buffalo, were here in great numbers, as this seemed +to be the commencement of the buffalo country. . . . + +"At noon the two canoes were finished. They were twenty-eight +feet long, sixteen or eighteen inches deep, and from sixteen +to twenty-four inches wide; and, having lashed them together, +everything was ready for setting out the next day, Gibson having +now recovered. Sergeant Pryor was directed, with Shannon +and Windsor, to take the remaining horses to the Mandans, +and if he should find that Mr. Henry [a trading-post agent] was +on the Assiniboin River, to go thither and deliver him a letter, +the object of which was to prevail on the most distinguished +chiefs of the Sioux to accompany him to Washington." + +On a large island near the mouth of a creek now known as +Canyon Creek, the party landed to explore an extensive Indian +lodge which seems to have been built for councils, rather than +for a place of residence. The lodge was shaped like a cone, +sixty feet in diameter at the base and tapering towards the top. +The poles of which it was constructed were forty-five feet long. +The interior was strangely decorated, the tops of the poles being +ornamented with eagles' feathers, and from the centre hung a stuffed +buffalo-hide. A buffalo's head and other trophies of the chase +were disposed about the wigwam. The valley, as the explorers +descended the river, was very picturesque and wonderful. +On the north side the cliffs were wild and romantic, and these +were soon succeeded by rugged hills, and these, in turn, by open +plains on which were descried herds of buffalo, elk, and wolves. +On the twenty-seventh of July, having reached the Bighorn, +one of the largest tributaries of the Yellowstone, the party +have this entry in their journal:-- + +"They again set out very early, and on leaving the Bighorn took +a last look at the Rocky Mountains, which had been constantly +in view from the first of May. The [Yellowstone] river now +widens to the extent of from four hundred to six hundred yards; +it is much divided by islands and sandbars; its banks are +generally low and falling in; it thus resembles the Missouri +in many particulars, but its islands are more numerous, +its waters less muddy, and the current is more rapid. +The water is of a yellowish-white, and the round stones, +which form the bars above the Bighorn, have given place to gravel. +On the left side the river runs under cliffs of light, +soft, gritty stone, varying in height from seventy to one +hundred feet, behind which are level and extensive plains. +On the right side of the river are low extensive bottoms, +bordered with cottonwood, various species of willow, +rose-bushes, grapevines, redberry or buffalo-grease bushes, +and a species of sumach; to these succeed high grounds +supplied with pine, and still further on are level plains. +Throughout the country are vast quantities of buffalo, which, +as this is the running-season, keep up a continued bellowing. +Large herds of elk also are lying on every point, so gentle that they +may be approached within twenty paces without being alarmed. +Several beaver were seen in the course of the day; indeed, there is +a greater appearance of those animals than there was above +the Bighorn. Deer, however, are by no means abundant, +and antelopes, as well as bighorns, are scarce." + +It is noticeable that the explorers, all along their route, +gave to streams, rocks, mountains, and other natural features of +the country many names that appear to us meaningless and trifling. +It would appear that they used up all the big names, +such as Jefferson, Gallatin, Philosophy, Philanthropy, and the like, +and were compelled to use, first, the names of their own party, +and then such titles as were suggested by trifling incidents. +For example, when they reached a difficult shoal on the +Yellowstone River, they named that Buffalo Shoal because they found +a buffalo on it; and Buffalo Shoal it remains unto this day. +In like manner, when they reached a dangerous rapid, twenty miles +below that point, they saw a bear standing on a rock in the stream; +and Bear Rapid the place was and is named. Bear and buffalo +were pretty numerous all the way along that part of the river +which they navigated in July. They had now rejoined the boats, +and on the last day of July, when camped at a point two miles +above Wolf Rapid (so called from seeing a wolf there), the buffalo +were continually prowling about the camp at night, exciting much +alarm lest they should trample on the boats and ruin them. +In those days, buffalo were so numerous that they were a +nuisance to travellers; and they were so free from fear of man +that they were too familiar with the camps and equipage. +On the first of August we find this entry in the journal +of the party:-- + +"The buffalo now appear in vast numbers. A herd happened to be on their +way across the river. Such was the multitude of these animals that, +though the river, including an island over which they passed, +was a mile wide, the herd stretched, as thickly as they could swim, +from one side to the other, and the party was obliged to stop for an hour. +They consoled themselves for the delay by killing four of the herd; +and then having proceeded for the distance of forty-five miles [in +all to-day] to an island, below which two other herds of buffalo, +as numerous as the first, soon after crossed the river." + +Again, on the very next day, we find this entry:-- + +"The river was now about a mile wide, less rapid, and more +divided by islands, and bars of sand and mud, than heretofore; +the low grounds, too, were more extensive, and contained a greater +quantity of cottonwood, ash, and willows. On the northwest was a low, +level plain, and on the southeast some rugged hills, on which we saw, +without being able to approach them, some bighorns. Buffalo and elk, +as well as their pursuers, the wolves, were in great numbers. +On each side of the river there were several dry beds of streams, +but the only one of any considerable size was one to which they +gave the name of Ibex River, on the right, about thirty yards wide, +and sixteen miles from their encampment of the preceding night. +The bear, which had given them so much trouble at the head of +the Missouri, they found equally fierce here. One of these animals, +which was on a sand-bar as the boat passed, raised himself +on his hind feet, and after looking at the party for a moment, +plunged in and swam towards them; but, after receiving three balls +in the body, he turned and made for the shore. Towards evening +they saw another enter the water to swim across; when Captain Clark +directed the boat towards the shore, and just as the animal landed +shot it in the head. It proved to be the largest female they had +ever seen, and was so old that its tusks were worn quite smooth. +The boats escaped with difficulty between two herds of buffalo that +were crossing the river, and came near being again detained by them. +Among the elk of this neighborhood they saw an unusual number of males, +while higher up the herds consisted chiefly of females." + +It is almost incredible that these wild animals should have been +so nearly exterminated by hunters and other rovers of the plains, +very soon after travel set in across the continent. The writer of +these lines, who crossed the plains to California so lately as 1856, +saw buffalo killed for the sake of their tongues, or to give rifle +practice to the wayfarers. After the overland railroad was opened, +passengers shot buffalo from the car-windows, well knowing that they could +not get their game, even if they should kill as they flew by a herd. +There are no buffalo nor elk where millions once roamed almost unmolested. + +Early in the afternoon of August 3, the party reached the junction +of the Yellowstone and the Missouri, and camped on the same spot +where they had pitched their tents on the 26th of April, 1805. +They were nearing the end of their long journey. + +But their troubles thickened as they drew near the close of their many miles +of travel. The journal for August 4 has this record:-- + +"The camp became absolutely uninhabitable in consequence of the multitude +of mosquitoes; the men could not work in preparing skins for clothing, +nor hunt in the timbered low grounds; there was no mode of escape, +except by going on the sand-bars in the river, where, if the wind +should blow, the insects do not venture; but when there is no wind, +and particularly at night, when the men have no covering except their +worn-out blankets, the pain they suffer is scarcely to be endured. +There was also a want of meat, for no buffalo were to be found; +and though elk are very abundant, yet their fat and flesh is more +difficult to dry in the sun, and is also much more easily spoiled +than the meat or fat of either deer or buffalo. + +"Captain Clark therefore determined to go on to some spot which should +be free from mosquitoes and furnish more game. Having written a note to +Captain Lewis, to inform him of his intention, and stuck it on a pole at the +confluence of the two rivers, he loaded the canoes at five in the afternoon, +proceeded down the river to the second point, and camped on a sand-bar; +but here the mosquitoes seemed to be even more numerous than above. +The face of the Indian child was considerably puffed up and swollen with +their bites; the men could procure scarcely any sleep during the night, +and the insects continued to harass them next morning, as they proceeded. +On one occasion Captain Clark went on shore and ascended a hill after one +of the bighorns; but the mosquitoes were in such multitudes that he could +not keep them from the barrel of his rifle long enough to take aim. +About ten o'clock, however, a light breeze sprung up from the northwest, +and dispersed them in some degree. Captain Clark then landed on a +sand-bar, intending to wait for Captain Lewis, and went out to hunt. +But not finding any buffalo, he again proceeded in the afternoon; +and having killed a large white bear, camped under a high bluff exposed +to a light breeze from the southwest, which blew away the mosquitoes. +About eleven o'clock, however, the wind became very high and a storm +of rain came on, which lasted for two hours, accompanied with sharp +lightning and loud peals of thunder. + +"The party rose, next day, very wet, and proceeded to a sand-bar below +the entrance of Whiteearth River. Just above this place the Indians, +apparently within seven, or eight days past, had been digging +a root which they employ in making a kind of soup. Having fixed +their tents, the men were employed in dressing skins and hunting. +They shot a number of deer; but only two of them were fat, +owing probably to the great quantities of mosquitoes which annoy +them while feeding." + +On the eleventh of August the Clark party came up with the two +white traders from Illinois, of whom we have already made mention +as having been met by the Lewis party on their way down the river. +These were the first white men they had seen (except themselves) +since they parted with the three French trappers, near the Little Missouri, +in April, 1805, From them the wayworn voyagers received the latest news +from the United States. From them they also had some unfavorable tidings. +The journal says:-- + +"These men had met the boat which we had despatched from Fort Mandan, on board +of which, they were told, was a Ricara chief on his way to Washington; +and also another party of Yankton chiefs, accompanying Mr. Durion +on a visit of the same kind. We were sorry to learn that the Mandans +and Minnetarees were at war with the Ricaras, and had killed two of them. +The Assiniboins too are at war with the Mandans. They have, in consequence, +prohibited the Northwestern Company from trading to the Missouri, and even +killed two of their traders near Mouse River; they are now lying in wait +for Mr. McKenzie of the Northwestern Company, who has been for a long time +among the Minnetarees. These appearances are rather unfavorable to our +project of carrying some of the chiefs to the United States; but we still +hope that, by effecting a peace between the Mandans, Minnetarees, and Ricaras, +the views of our Government may be accomplished." + +Next day, August 12, 1806, the party, slowly descending the river, were +overjoyed to see below them the little flotilla of Captain Lewis and his men. +But they were alarmed when they discovered that Lewis was not with them; +as the boats landed at the shore, the captain was not to be seen. +Captain Clark's party, on coming up with their friends, were told +that Lewis was lying in the pirogue, having been accidentally wounded. +The whole party were now happily reunited, and they were soon joined by +the two Illinois traders whom they had met up the river; these men wished +to accompany the expedition down the river as far as the Mandan nation, +for the purpose of trading; they were more secure with a large party +of white men than they would be if left to themselves. + + + +Chapter XXVI + +The End of a Long Journey + +The reunited party now set out for the lower river and proceeded rapidly +down-stream, favored with a good wind. They made eighty-six miles on +the first day, passing the mouth of the Little Missouri early in the forenoon, +and camping at Miry River, on the northeast side of the Missouri. On the +second day they arrived at the principal village of the Minnetarees, +where they were received with cordial welcome by their old friends. +The explorers fired their blunderbuss several times by way of salute, +and the Indian chiefs expressed their satisfaction at the safe return +of the white men. One of the Minnetaree chiefs, however, wept bitterly +at the sight of the whites, and it was explained by his friends that their +coming reminded him of the death of his son, who had been lately killed +by the Blackfoot Indians. + +Arriving at the village of the Mandans, of which Black Cat +was the chief, a council was called, and the chiefs of +the expedition endeavored to persuade some of the leading +men of the tribe to accompany them to Washington to see "the +Great Father." Black Cat expressed his strong desire to visit +the United States and see the Great Father, but he was afraid +of the Sioux, their ancient enemies, through whose territory +they must pass on their way down to the white man's country. +This chief, it will be recollected, was given a flag and +a medal by the two captains when they passed up the river +on their way to the Rocky Mountains and the Pacific coast. +The flag was now brought on and hoisted on the lodge of +Black Cat. On that occasion, also, the commanders of the +expedition had given the Indians a number of useful articles, +among them being a portable corn-mill. But the Indians had other +uses for metal, and they had taken the mill apart and used +the iron for the purpose of making barbs for their arrows. +From the Omahas, who were located here, the white men +received a present of as much corn as three men could carry. +Black Cat also gave them a dozen bushels of corn. + +Their days of starvation and famine were over. They were next visited +by Le Borgne, better known as One-eye, the head chief of all the Minnetarees, +to whom Lewis and Clark also extended an invitation to go to Washington +to see the Great Father. The journal says:-- + +"Le Borgne began by declaring that he much desired to visit +his Great Father, but that the Sioux would certainly kill +any of the Mandans who should attempt to go down the river. +They were bad people, and would not listen to any advice. +When he saw us last, we had told him that we had made peace +with all the nations below; yet the Sioux had since killed +eight of his tribe, and stolen a number of their horses. +The Ricaras too had stolen their horses, and in the contest +his people had killed two of the Ricaras. Yet in spite +of these dispositions he had always had his ears open to +our counsels, and had actually made a peace with the Chayennes +and the Indians of the Rocky Mountains. He concluded by saying, +that however disposed they were to visit the United States, +the fear of the Sioux would prevent them from going with us." + +The truth was that One-eye had no notion of going to Washington; +he was afraid of nobody, and his plea of possible danger +among the Sioux was mere nonsense to deceive the white men. +Captain Clark visited the village of Black Cat, and that worthy +savage made the same excuse that Le Borgne (One-eye) had already +put forth; he was afraid of the Sioux. The journal adds:-- + +"Captain Clark then spoke to the chiefs and warriors of the village. +He told them of his anxiety that some of them should see their +Great Father, hear his good words, and receive his gifts; and requested +them to fix on some confidential chief who might accompany us. +To this they made the same objections as before; till at length +a young man offered to go, and the warriors all assented to it. +But the character of this man was known to be bad; and one +of the party with Captain Clark informed him that at the moment +he [this Indian] had in his possession a knife which he had stolen. +Captain Clark therefore told the chief of this theft, and ordered +the knife to be given up. This was done with a poor apology for having +it in his possession, and Captain Clark then reproached the chiefs +for wishing to send such a fellow to see and hear so distinguished +a person as their Great Father. They all hung down their heads +for some time, till Black Cat apologized by saying that the danger +was such that they were afraid of sending any one of their chiefs, +as they considered his loss almost inevitable." + +Although there was so much reluctance on the part of the Indians +to leave their roving life, even for a few months, there were +some white men among the explorers who were willing to give up +their home in "the States." The journal says:-- + +"In the evening Colter applied to us for permission to join the two +trappers who had accompanied us, and who now proposed an expedition +up the river, in which they were to find traps and to give him +a share of the profits. The offer was a very advantageous one; +and as he had always performed his duty, and his services could +be dispensed with, we consented to his going upon condition +that none of the rest were to ask or expect a similar indulgence. +To this they all cheerfully assented, saying that they wished +Colter every success, and would not apply for liberty to separate +before we reached St. Louis. We therefore supplied him, as did +his comrades also, with powder and lead, and a variety of articles +which might be useful to him, and he left us the next day. +The example of this man shows how easily men may be weaned +from the habits of civilized life to the ruder, though scarcely +less fascinating, manners of the woods. This hunter had now been +absent for many years from the frontiers, and might naturally +be presumed to have some anxiety, or at least curiosity, +to return to his friends and his country; yet, just at the moment +when he was approaching the frontiers, he was tempted by a hunting +scheme to give up all those delightful prospects, and to go back +without the least reluctance to the solitude of the wilds." + +The two captains learned here that the Minnetarees had sent out +a war-party against the Shoshonees, very soon after the white men's +expedition had left for the Rocky Mountains, notwithstanding their +promise to keep peace with the surrounding tribes. They had also +sent a war-party against the Ricaras, two of whom they killed. +Accordingly, the white chiefs had a powwow with the Indian chiefs, +at which the journal says these incidents occurred:-- + +"We took this opportunity of endeavoring to engage Le Borgne +in our interests by a present of the swivel, which is no longer +serviceable, as it cannot be discharged from our largest pirogue. +It was loaded; and the chiefs being formed into a circle +round it, Captain Clark addressed them with great ceremony. +He said that he had listened with much attention to what had +yesterday been declared by Le Borgne, whom he believed to be sincere, +and then reproached them with their disregard of our counsels, +and their wars on the Shoshonees and Ricaras. Little Cherry, +the old Minnetaree chief, answered that they had long stayed at home +and listened to our advice, but at last went to war against the Sioux +because their horses had been stolen and their companions killed; +and that in an expedition against those people they met the Ricaras, +who were on their way to strike them, and a battle ensued. +But in future he said they would attend to our words and live +at peace. Le Borgne added that his ears would always be open +to the words of his Good Father, and shut against bad counsel. +Captain Clark then presented to Le Borgne the swivel, which he told +him had announced the words of his Great Father to all the nations +we had seen, and which, whenever it was fired, should recall +those which we had delivered to him. The gun was discharged, +and Le Borgne had it conveyed in great pomp to his village. +The council then adjourned." + +After much diplomacy and underhand scheming, one of the Mandan chiefs, +Big White, agreed to go to Washington with the expedition. +But none of the Minnetarees could be prevailed upon to leave +their tribe, even for a journey to the Great Father, +of whose power and might so much had been told them. +The journal, narrating this fact, says further:-- + +"The principal chiefs of the Minnetarees now came down to bid +us farewell, as none of them could be prevailed on to go with us. +This circumstance induced our interpreter, Chaboneau, to remain +here with his wife and child, as he could no longer be of use to us, +and, although we offered to take him with us to the United States, +he declined, saying that there he had no acquaintance, +and no chance of making a livelihood, and preferred remaining +among the Indians. This man had been very serviceable to us, +and his wife was particularly useful among the Shoshonees: +indeed, she had borne with a patience truly admirable the fatigues +of so long a route, encumbered with the charge of an infant, +who was then only nineteen months old. We therefore paid him +his wages, amounting to five hundred dollars and thirty-three cents, +including the price of a horse and a lodge purchased of him, +and soon afterward dropped down to the village of Big White, +attended on shore by all the Indian chiefs, who had come to take +leave of him. + +"We found him surrounded by his friends, who sat in a circle smoking, +while the women were crying. He immediately sent his wife and son, +with their baggage, on board, accompanied by the interpreter +and his wife, and two children; and then, after distributing +among his friends some powder and ball which we had given him, +and smoking a pipe, he went with us to the river side. +The whole village crowded about us, and many of the people wept +aloud at the departure of their chief." + +Once more embarked, the party soon reached Fort Mandan, +where they had wintered in 1804. They found very little of their +old stronghold left except a few pickets and one of the houses. +The rest had been destroyed by an accidental fire. +Eighteen miles below, they camped near an old Ricara village, +and next day, as they were about to resume their voyage, +a brother of Big White, whose camp was farther inland, +came running down to the beach to bid Big White farewell. +The parting of the two brothers was very affectionate, and the elder +gave the younger a pair of leggings as a farewell present. +The Indian chief was satisfied with his treatment by the whites, +and interested himself to tell them traditions of localities +which they passed. August 20 they were below the mouth +of Cannon-ball River, and were in the country occupied +and claimed by the Sioux. Here, if anywhere, they must be +prepared for attacks from hostile Indians. At this point, +the journal sets forth this interesting observation:-- + +"Since we passed in 1804, a very obvious change has taken place +in the current and appearance of the Missouri. In places where at +that time there were sandbars, the current of the river now passes, +and the former channel of the river is in turn a bank of sand. +Sandbars then naked are now covered with willows several feet high; +the entrance of some of the creeks and rivers has changed in consequence +of the quantity of mud thrown into them; and in some of the bottoms +are layers of mud eight inches in depth." + +The streams that flow into the Missouri and Mississippi from the westward +are notoriously fickle and changeable. Within a very few years, +some of them have changed their course so that farms are divided +into two parts, or are nearly wiped out by the wandering streams. +In at least one instance, artful men have tried to steal part of a State +by changing the boundary line along the bed of the river, making the stream +flow many miles across a tract around which it formerly meandered. +On this boundary line between the Sioux and their upper neighbors, the party +met a band of Cheyennes and another of Ricaras, or Arikaras. They held +a palaver with these Indians and reproached the Ricara chief, who was +called Gray-eyes, with having engaged in hostilities with the Sioux, +notwithstanding the promises made when the white men were here before. +To this Gray-eyes made an animated reply:-- + +"He declared that the Ricaras were willing to follow the counsels +we had given them, but a few of their bad young men would not live +in peace, but had joined the Sioux and thus embroiled them with +the Mandans. These young men had, however, been driven out of the villages, +and as the Ricaras were now separated from the Sioux, who were a bad people +and the cause of all their misfortunes, they now desired to be at peace +with the Mandans, and would receive them with kindness and friendship. +Several of the chiefs, he said, were desirous of visiting their Great Father; +but as the chief who went to the United States last summer had not returned, +and they had some fears for his safety, on account of the Sioux, they did +not wish to leave home until they heard of him. With regard to himself, +he would continue with his nation, to see that they followed our advice. +. . . . . . . . . + +"After smoking for some time, Captain Clark gave a small medal to +the Chayenne chief, and explained at the same time the meaning of it. +He seemed alarmed at this present, and sent for a robe and a quantity +of buffalo-meat, which he gave to Captain Clark, and requested him to take +back the medal; for he knew that all white people were `medicine,' +and was afraid of the medal, or of anything else which the white +people gave to the Indians. Captain Clark then repeated his intention +in giving the medal, which was the medicine his great father had +directed him to deliver to all chiefs who listened to his word and. +followed his counsels; and that as he [the chief] had done so, +the medal was given as a proof that we believed him sincere. +He now appeared satisfied and received the medal, in return for which +he gave double the quantity of buffalo-meat he had offered before. +He seemed now quite reconciled to the whites, and requested that some +traders might be sent among the Chayennes, who lived, he said, in a +country full of beaver, but did not understand well how to catch them, +and were discouraged from it by having no sale for them when caught. +Captain Clark promised that they should be soon supplied with goods +and taught the best mode of catching beaver. + +"Big White, the chief of the Mandans, now addressed them at some length, +explaining the pacific intentions of his nation; the Chayennes +observed that both the Ricaras and Mandans seemed to be in fault; +but at the end of the council the Mandan chief was treated with +great civility, and the greatest harmony prevailed among them. +The great chief, however, informed us that none of the Ricaras could +be prevailed on to go with us till the return of the other chief; +and that the Chayennes were a wild people, afraid to go. +He invited Captain Clark to his house, and gave him two carrots +of tobacco, two beaver-skins, and a trencher of boiled corn and beans. +It is the custom of all the nations on the Missouri to offer to every +white man food and refreshment when he first enters their tents." + +Resuming their voyage, the party reached Tyler's River, where they camped, +on the twenty-seventh of August. This stream is now known as Medicine River, +from Medicine Hill, a conspicuous landmark rising at a little distance +from the Missouri. The voyagers were now near the lower portion of what +is now known as South Dakota, and they camped in territory embraced +in the county of Presho. Here they were forced to send out their hunters; +their stock of meat was nearly exhausted. The hunters returned empty-handed. + +"After a hunt of three hours they reported that no game was to be found +in the bottoms, the grass having been laid flat by the immense number +of buffaloes which recently passed over it; and, that they saw only a few +buffalo bulls, which they did not kill, as they were quite unfit for use. +Near this place we observed, however, the first signs of the wild turkey; +not long afterward we landed in the Big Bend, and killed a fine fat elk, +on which we feasted. Toward night we heard the bellowing of buffalo bulls +on the lower island of the Big Bend. We pursued this agreeable sound, +and after killing some of the cows, camped on the island, forty-five miles +from the camp of last night." . . . . . . . . . + +"Setting out at ten o'clock the next morning, at a short distance they passed +the mouth of White River, the water of which was nearly of the color of milk. +As they were much occupied with hunting, they made but twenty miles. +The buffalo," says the journal, "were now so numerous, that from an +eminence we discovered more than we had ever seen before at one time; +and though it was impossible accurately to calculate their number, +they darkened the whole plain, and could not have been, we were convinced, +less than twenty thousand. With regard to game in general, we have observed +that wild animals are usually found in the greatest numbers in the country +lying between two nations at war." + +They were now well into the Sioux territory, and on the thirtieth +of August they had an encounter with a party of Indians. About twenty +persons were seen on the west side of the river, proceeding along a height +opposite the voyagers. Just as these were observed, another band, +numbering eighty or ninety, came out of the woods nearer the shore. +As they had a hostile appearance, the party in the canoes made preparations +to receive them; they were suspected to be Teton-Sioux, although they +might be Yanktons, Pawnees, or Omahas. The journal adds:-- + +"In order, however, to ascertain who they were, without risk +to the party, Captain Clark crossed, with three persons +who could speak different Indian languages, to a sand-bar +near the opposite side, in hopes of conversing with them. +Eight young men soon met him on the sand-bar, but none of them could +understand either the Pawnee or Maha interpreter. They were then +addressed in the Sioux language, and answered that they were Tetons, +of the band headed by Black Buffaloe, Tahtackasabah. This was +the same who had attempted to stop us in 1804; and being +now less anxious about offending so mischievous a tribe, +Captain Clark told them that they had been deaf to our councils, +had ill-treated us two years ago, and had abused all the whites +who had since visited them. He believed them, he added, to be +bad people, and they must therefore return to their companions; +for if they crossed over to our camp we would put them to death. +They asked for some corn, which Captain Clark refused; +they then requested permission to come and visit our camp, +but he ordered them back to their own people. He then returned, +and all our arms were prepared, in case of an attack; but when +the Indians reached their comrades, and informed their chiefs +of our intention, they all set out on their way to their own camp; +though some of them halted on a rising ground and abused us +very copiously, threatening to kill us if we came across. +We took no notice of this for some time, till the return of three +of our hunters, whom we were afraid the Indians might have met. +But as soon as they joined us we embarked; and to see what +the Indians would attempt, steered near their side of the river. +At this the party on the hill seemed agitated; some set out +for their camp, others walked about, and one man walked toward +the boats and invited us to land. As he came near, we recognized +him to be the same who had accompanied us for two days in 1804, +and was considered a friend of the whites. + +"Unwilling, however, to have any intercourse with these people, +we declined his invitation, upon which he returned to the hill, +and struck the earth three times with his gun, a great oath among +the Indians, who consider swearing by the earth as one of the most +solemn forms of imprecation. At the distance of six miles we +stopped on a bleak sand-bar, where we thought ourselves secure from +any attack during the night, and also safe from the mosquitoes. +We had made but twenty-two miles, but in the course of the day +had killed a mule-deer, an animal we were very anxious to obtain. +About eleven in the evening the wind shifted to the northwest, +and it began to rain, accompanied by thunder and lightning, +after which the wind changed to the southwest, and blew with such +violence that we were obliged to hold fast the canoes, for fear +of their being driven from the sand-bar: still, the cables of two +of them broke, and two others were blown quite across the river; +nor was it till two o'clock that the whole party were reassembled, +waiting in the rain for daylight." + +The party now began to meet white men in small detachments +coming up the river. On the third of September, for example, +they met the first men who were able to give them news of home. +This party was commanded by a Mr. James Airs (or Ayres), from Mackinaw, +by the way of Prairie du Chien and St. Louis. He had two canoes +loaded with merchandise which he was taking up the river to trade +with the Indians. Among the items of news gathered from him, +according to the private journal of one of the Lewis and Clark party, +was that General James Wilkinson was now Governor of Louisiana Territory, +and was stationed at St. Louis. This is the Wilkinson who fought +in the American Revolution, and was subsequently to this time accused +of accepting bribes from Spain and of complicity with Aaron Burr +in his treasonable schemes. Another item was to this effect: +"Mr. Burr & Genl. Hambleton fought a Duel, the latter was killed." +This brief statement refers to the unhappy duel between Aaron Burr +and Alexander Hamilton, at Weehawken, New Jersey, July 11, 1804. +This interesting entry shows with what feelings the long-absent +explorers met Mr. Airs:-- + +"After so long an interval, the sight of anyone who could give us +information of our country was peculiarly delightful, and much of +the night was spent in making inquiries into what had occurred during +our absence. We found Mr. Airs a very friendly and liberal gentleman; +when we proposed to him to purchase a small quantity of tobacco, +to be paid for in St. Louis, he very readily furnished every +man of the party with as much as he could use during the rest +of the voyage, and insisted on our accepting a barrel of flour. +This last we found very agreeable, although we have still a little +flour which we had deposited at the mouth of Maria's River. We could +give in return only about six bushels of corn, which was all that +we could spare." + +Three days later, the voyagers met a trading-boat belonging +to Mr. Augustus Chouteau, the founder of a famous trading-house in +St. Louis. From this party the captains procured a gallon of whiskey, +and with this they served out a dram to each of their men. +"This," says the journal, "is the first spirituous liquor any of them +have tasted since the Fourth of July, 1805." From this time forward, +the returning explorers met trading parties nearly every day; +and this showed that trade was following the flag far up into +the hitherto unexplored regions of the American continent. + +The explorers, hungry for news from home, would have tarried and +talked longer with their new-found friends, but they were anxious +to get down to civilization once more. Their journal also says: +"The Indians, particularly the squaws and children, are weary of the +long journey, and we are desirous of seeing our country and friends." +This quotation from the journal gives us our first intimation that any +Indians accompanied Big White to the United States. He appears to have +had a small retinue of followers men, women, and children--with him. + +Below the mouth of the Platte, September 12, Lewis and Clark +met Gravelines, the interpreter who was sent to Washington from +Fort Mandan, in 1805, with despatches, natural history specimens, +and a Ricara chief. The chief had unfortunately died in Washington, +and Gravelines was now on his way to the Ricaras with a speech from +President Jefferson and the presents that had been given to the chief. +He also had instructions to teach the Ricaras in agriculture. + +It is interesting to note how that the explorers, now tolerably +well acquainted with the Indian character since their long +experience with the red men, had adopted a very different bearing +from that which they had when coming up the river, in 1805. +Here is an extract from their journal, September 14:-- + +"We resumed our journey. This being a part of the river to +which the Kansas resort, in order to rob the boats of traders, +we held ourselves in readiness to fire upon any Indians who +should offer us the slightest indignity; as we no longer needed +their friendship, and found that a tone of firmness and decision +is the best possible method of making proper impressions on +these freebooters. However, we did not encounter any of them; +but just below the old Kansas village met three trading-boats +from St. Louis, on their way to the Yanktons and Mahas." + +Thirty miles below the island of Little Osage village, the party +met Captain McClellan, formerly of the United States army. +He informed Captain Lewis that the party had been given up +for lost, people generally believing that they would never again +be heard from; but, according to the journal of one of the party, +"The President of the U. States yet had hopes of us." +The last news received in "the U. States" from the explorers +was that sent from Fort Mandan, by Gravelines, in 1805. + +Scarcity of provisions once more disturbed the party, so that, +on the eighteenth of September, the journal sets forth the fact +that game was very scarce and nothing was seen by the hunters +but a bear and three turkeys, which they were unable to reach. +The men, however, were perfectly satisfied, although they +were allowed only one biscuit per day. An abundance of +pawpaws growing along the banks sufficed as nutritious food. +The pawpaw is native to many of the Western States of +the Republic. It is a fruit three or four inches long, +growing on a small tree, or bush. The fruit is sweet and juicy +and has several bean-shaped seeds embedded in the pulp. +The voyagers now began to see signs of civilization on the banks +of the river. Near the mouth of the Gasconade, above St. Louis, +they beheld cows grazing in the meadows. The journal says: +"The whole party almost involuntarily raised a shout of joy +at seeing this image of civilization and domestic life." +Men who have been wandering in pathless wildernesses, +remote from man, for more than two years, might well be +moved by the sights of a homelike farm and a settled life. +Soon after this the party reached the little French village +of La Charette which they saluted with four guns and three +hearty cheers. Then, according to the journal, they landed and +were warmly received by the people, who had long since abandoned +all hope of ever seeing these far-voyaging adventurers return. +Here are the last entries in the journal that has been our guide +so long across the continent and back again to the haunts of men:-- + +"Sunday, September 21st, we proceeded; and as several +settlements have been made during our absence, we were +refreshed with the sight of men and cattle along the banks. +We also passed twelve canoes of Kickapoo Indians, going on +a hunting-excursion. At length, after coming forty-eight miles, +we saluted, with heartfelt satisfaction, the village of +St. Charles, and on landing were treated with the greatest +hospitality and kindness by all the inhabitants of that place. +Their civility detained us till ten o'clock the next morning, + +"September 22d, when the rain having ceased, we set out for Coldwater Creek, +about three miles from the mouth of the Missouri, where we found a cantonment +of troops of the United States, with whom we passed the day; and then, + +"September 23d, descended to the Mississippi, and round to St. Louis, +where we arrived at twelve o'clock; and having fired a salute, +went on shore and received the heartiest and most hospitable welcome +from the whole village." + +The two captains were very busily employed, as soon as they arrived +in St. Louis, with writing letters to their friends and to the officers +of the government who were concerned to know of their safe return +to civilization. Captain Lewis' letter to the President of the +United States, announcing his arrival, was dated Sept. 23, 1806. +President Jefferson's reply was dated October 20 of that year. +In his letter the President expressed his "unspeakable joy" +at the safe return of the expedition. He said that the unknown scenes +in which they had been engaged and the length of time during which no +tidings had been received from them "had begun to be felt awfully." +It may seem strange to modern readers familiar with the means +for rapid travel and communication that no news from the explorers, +later than that which they sent from the Mandan country, was received +in the United States until their return, two years and four months later. +But mail facilities were very scanty in those far-off days, +even in the settled portions of the Mississippi Valley, and few +traders had then penetrated to those portions of the Lower Missouri +that had just been travelled by Lewis and Clark. As we have seen, +white men were regarded with awe and curiosity by the natives +of the regions which the explorers traversed in their long absence. +The first post-office in what is now the great city of St. Louis +was not established until 1808; mails between the Atlantic seaboard +and that "village" required six weeks to pass either way. + +The two captains went to Washington early in the year following their +arrival in St. Louis. There is extant a letter from Captain Lewis, +dated at Washington, Feb. 11, 1807. Congress was then in session, and, +agreeably to the promises that had been held out to the explorers, +the Secretary of War (General Henry Dearborn), secured from that body +the passage of an act granting to each member of the expedition +a considerable tract of land from the public domain. To each +private and non-commissioned officer was given three hundred acres; +to Captain Clark, one thousand acres, and to Captain Lewis fifteen +hundred acres. In addition to this, the two officers were given +double pay for their services during the time of their absence. +Captain Lewis magnanimously objected to receiving more land for his +services than that given to Captain Clark. + +Captain Lewis resigned from the army, March 2, 1807, having been +nominated to be Governor of Louisiana Territory a few days before. +His commission as Governor was dated March 3 of that year. +He was thus made the Governor of all the territory of the United States +west of the Mississippi River. About the same time, Captain Clark +was appointed a general of the territorial militia and Indian agent +for that department. + +Originally, the territory acquired from France was divided into the District +of New Orleans and the District of Louisiana, the first-named being +the lower portion of the territory and bounded on the north by a line +which now represents the northern boundary of the State of Louisiana; +and all above that line was known as the District of Louisiana. In 1812, +the upper part, or Louisiana, was named the Territory of Missouri, +and Captain Clark (otherwise General), was appointed Governor of +the Territory, July 1, 1813, his old friend and comrade having died +a few years earlier. + +The end of Captain (otherwise Governor) Lewis was tragical and was +shadowed by a cloud. Official business calling him to Washington, +he left St. Louis early in September, 1809, and prosecuted his +journey eastward through Tennessee, by the way of Chickasaw Bluffs, +now Memphis, of that State. There is a mystery around his last days. +On the eleventh of October, he stopped at a wayside log-inn, +and that night he died a violent death, whether by his +own hand or by that of a murderer, no living man knows. +There were many contradictory stories about the sad affair, +some persons holding to the one theory and some to the other. +He was buried where he died, in the centre of what is now +Lewis County, Tennessee. In 1848, the State of Tennessee erected +over the last resting-place of Lewis a handsome monument, +the inscriptions on which duly set forth his many virtues +and his distinguished services to his country. + +The story of the expedition of Lewis and Clark is the foundation of +the history of the great Northwest and the Missouri Valley. These men +and their devoted band of followers were the first to break into +the world-old solitudes of the heart of the continent and to explore +the mountain fastnesses in which the mighty Columbia has its birth. +Following in their footsteps, the hardy American emigrant, +trader, adventurer, and home-seeker penetrated the wilderness, and, +building better than they knew, laid the foundations of populous and +thriving States. Peaceful farms and noble cities, towns and villages, +thrilling with the hum of modern industry and activity, +are spread over the vast spaces through which the explorers threaded +their toilsome trail, amid incredible privations and hardships, +showing the way westward across the boundless continent which is ours. +Let the names of those two men long be held in grateful honor +by the American people! + + + +Index {RAW OCR OUTPUT BELOW:} + +A + +Alkali, natural deposits of, 60. Antelope, first seen, 29; +how hunted, 69. Assiniboins, at war with Sioux, 49, + +B + +Beaver, hunted as game, 70, Beaver Head, 143. Big Dry River, 75. +Bismarck, N. D., 44. Bitter Root Mountains, 147. Black Cat, +a Mandan chief, 342. Boone, Daniel, 14. Buffalo, first signs of, +16; hunt, 51; curious adventure with, 87; extermination of, 338. + +C + +Caches, how built, 98. Calumet bird, 43. Camas, edible root, 179. +Cameahwait, a Shoshonee chief, 157, Camp, first winter, 48; +departure from, 57. Candle-fish, 252. Cannonball River, N. D-, 43. +Captain Cook, 3. Captain Gray, 3. Captain Vancouver, 3. +Carroll, Mont., 83. Carver, Jonathan, 5. Cascades of +the Columbia, 262. Cathedral Rocks, 90-92. Cheyenne River, 40. +Chinook Indians, 208; some account of, 246. Chouteau, a St. Louis +trader, 355. Christmas (1804), 52; (1805), 240- + +Clark, Captain, biographical notice Of, 7; general of militia, 359. +Clark's Fort, 48; river, 180-63; party overtaken by disaster, 142. +Clatsop Indians, some account Of, 248. Clearwater River, 183. +Cloudburst, 116. Columbia River, discovery Of, 4; portage to, 108; +at the headwaters of, 148; at the entrance to, 194; great falls of, 202; +the great chute Of, 215 et seq. Comowol, a Columbia River Indian +chief, 239. Condor, a California variety, 256. Council Bluffs, 19. +Cowas, an edible root, 278. Coyote, described, 72. Crow Indians, 24. + +D Dalles, the, 266. Dearborn River, 130. Divide, on the great, 148; +across the, 179. Dog's flesh as an article of food, 24, 185- + +E + +Echeloot Indians, 210. Elk, hunting of, 251. Ermine, first seen, 49. +Expedition, Lewis and Clark's, 7; Organization of, 8; route of, 10; +sets sail, 14. "Experiment," failure of the boat, 124 + +F + +Falls of the Missouri, 101; description of, 111 et seq. +Flathead Indians, 211. Floyd's River, why so named, 23, Forks of +the Missouri, 135. Fort Clark, 48; Clatsop, 255. + +G + +Gallatin's fork of the Missouri, 135. Gates of the Rocky Mountains, 132. +Goose-nests in trees, 61. gray, Capt., discoverer of the Columbia, 3. +Grizzly bear, first seen, 40; thrilling encounters with, 72, 76, +77, 105) 115, 315- + +H + +Horse-flesh eaten by the expedition, 77. Hungry Creek, 178, 303- + +1 + +Independence Day, celebration of (1805), 123; (180(i), 327. +Iowa Indians, 16. Islands, White Bear, 110. + +J + +Jefferson, President Thomas, 2-4; his letters to Capt. Lewis, 12; presents to, +from Lewis and Clark, 55; welcome to Capt. Lewis on return, 358; name given +to fork of the Missouri, 135. John Day's River, 203- + +K + +Klikitat River, 214, Kooskooskee River, 180. + +L + +Lewis, Capt., biographical notice of, 6, 7; accidentally wounded, 341; +announces his return, 358; Governor of Louisiana Territory, 359; +his tragical death, 360. Lewis and Clark, pursue separate routes across +the Divide, 140; also on their return, 310, Lewis's River, 165. + +Lewiston, Idaho, 185. Ledyard, John, 4. Lemhi River, 152. +Little Devils, hill Of, 23. Louisiana Purchase, the, 1-2; +divided into two territories, 360. + +M + +Madison, fork of the Missouri, 135. Mandan Indians, 46 et seq.; +religion of, 50. Maria's River, 97. Medicine River, 106. +Meriwether's Bay, 234. Milk River, 74. Minnetarees, at war +with Sioux, 49; expedition has an encounter with, 318 et seq, +Missouri River, Little, 60. Missouri, the Upper, So; great falls of, 101; +forks of, 135; at the headwaters Of, 147. Mosquitoes, the great +plague of, 126, 339. Mount St. Helen's, 198; Hood, 203. +Mouse River, source of, 60. Multnomah (Willamette) River, 221, 259. +Musselshell River, 81. + +N + +Nez Perce Indians (Chopunnish), 180; some account of the, 186. +Noises, mysterious, 122. + +0 + +Osage Indians, traditions of, 15. Ottoes, council with, 20. + +P + +Pacific Ocean, first sight of the, 225. Pawpaw fruit, 357. Pemmican, 33. +Platte River as a boundary, 17, Porcupine River, 70. Prairie dog, 29. + +Q Quamash flats, 302. Quicksand River, 220. + +R + +Rat, peculiar variety of, 121. Rickarees, in the country +of the, 40. River, Little Missouri, to; Mouse, source of, 60; +Yellowstone, 65; Porcupine, 70; Saskatchewan, 74; Milk, 74; +Big Dry, 75; Upper Missouri, 80; Musselshell, 81; Slaughter, 88; +Maria's, 97; Madison, 106; Columbia, portage to, 108; Smith's, 129; +Dearborn, 130; Salmon, 152; Lemhi, 152; Lewis's, 165; Kooskooskee, 180; +Clark's, 180; Clearwater, 183; Snake, 188; Yakima, 196; John Day'S, 203; +Klikitat, 214 Quicksand, 220; Multnomah. 220. Rocky Mountains, +first sight of, 85; sheep, 85; gates of the, 132; farewell to +the mountains, 335. Rocks, Cathedral, 90-92. + +S + +St. Louis, village of, 11; first post-office in, 359. +Sacajawea, joins the expedition, 48 stream named for her, 82; +story of her capture, 138; finds her own people, 160; a tribute to +her memory, 332. Sage-brush, first seen, 62. Saline County, Mo., 16. +Salmon River, 152; City, Idaho, 165; abundance of fish, 194. +Salt, made from sea-water, 235 et seq. Saskatchewan River, 74. +Shannon, the lost hunter, 143. Shoshonees, first meeting with, +145 among the, 150 et seq.; some account of the, 171 et seq. +Sioux Indians, 27, Slaughter River, 88. Smith's River, 128. + +Snake River, 188; junction of the with Columbia, 190. +Sokulk Indians, some account of, 191 et seq. Spirit Mound, 24. +Spring River, S. D-; 42. Stone-Idol Creek, legend Of, 42. +Sweat baths, Indian, 187, 298. + +T + +Tetons, in the country of, 33-38. Three-thousand-mile Island, 331. +Tillamook Indians, 244. Traveller's-rest Creek, 309. +Twisted-hair, an Indian chief, adventures with, 282 et seq. + +U Umatilla, 271- + +V + +Vancouver, Capt-y 3- + +W + +Wahkiacum Indians, 224, Walla Walla, 271. Wappatoo, edible root, +230 description of, 260. Weocksockwillacums, 265. +Wharfington, commands return party to the U. S., 58. +White Bear Islands, 110; camp at, 114. Whisky, Indian rejection +of, 42. Winter camp, first, 48; departure from, 57- + +Y + +Yakima River, 196. Yankton, S. D., 24. Yellowstone River, 65; +Capt. Clark's descent of the, 327. York, a negro servant, 41, 159. + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg Etext of First Across the Continent, by Brooks + diff --git a/old/old/landc10.zip b/old/old/landc10.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..fd54ff4 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/old/landc10.zip |