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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/12327-0.txt b/12327-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..7394ab1 --- /dev/null +++ b/12327-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,6292 @@ +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 12327 *** + +The Jewish Manual; + +OR + +Practical Information in Jewish And Modern Cookery, + +With a Collection of Valuable Recipes & Hints Relating to the +Toilette. + + + +Edited by a Lady. + + + +LONDON: 1846. + + + + +EDITOR'S PREFACE. + +Among the numerous works on Culinary Science already in circulation, +there have been none which afford the slightest insight to the Cookery +of the Hebrew kitchen. + +Replete as many of these are with information on various important +points, they are completely valueless to the Jewish housekeeper, not +only on account of prohibited articles and combinations being assumed +to be necessary ingredients of nearly every dish, but from the entire +absence of all the receipts peculiar to the Jewish people. + +This deficiency, which has been so frequently the cause of +inconvenience and complaint, we have endeavoured in the present little +volume to supply. And in taking upon ourselves the responsibility of +introducing it to the notice of our readers, we have been actuated +by the hope that it will prove of some practical utility to those for +whose benefit it is more particularly designed. + +It has been our earnest desire to simplify as much as possible the +directions given regarding the rudiments of the art, and to render the +receipts which follow, clear, easy, and concise. Our collection will +be found to contain all the best receipts, hitherto bequeathed only +by memory or manuscript, from one generation to another of the Jewish +nation, as well as those which come under the denomination of plain +English dishes; and also such French ones as are now in general use at +all refined modern tables. + +A careful attention has been paid to accuracy and economy in the +proportions named, and the receipts may be perfectly depended upon, as +we have had the chief part of them tested in our own kitchen and under +our own _surveillance_. + +All difficult and expensive modes of cookery have been purposely +omitted, as more properly belonging to the province of the +confectioner, and foreign to the intention of this little work; the +object of which is, to guide the young Jewish housekeeper in the +luxury and economy of "The Table," on which so much of the pleasure of +social intercourse depends. + +The various acquirements, which in the present day are deemed +essential to female education, rarely leave much time or inclination +for the humble study of household affairs; and it not unfrequently +happens, that the mistress of a family understands little more +concerning the dinner table over which she presides, than the graceful +arrangement of the flowers which adorn it; thus she is incompetent to +direct her servant, upon whose inferior judgment and taste she is +obliged to depend. She is continually subjected to impositions from +her ignorance of what is required for the dishes she selects, while a +lavish extravagance, or parsimonious monotony betrays her utter +inexperience in all the minute yet indispensible details of elegant +hospitality. + +However, there are happily so many highly accomplished and +intellectual women, whose example proves the compatability of uniting +the cultivation of talents with domestic pursuits, that it would be +superfluous and presumptuous were we here to urge the propriety and +importance of acquiring habits of usefulness and household knowledge, +further than to observe that it is the unfailing attribute of a +superior mind to turn its attention occasionally to the lesser objects +of life, aware how greatly they contribute to its harmony and its +happiness. + +The _Cuisine_ of a woman of refinement, like her dress or her +furniture, is distinguished, not for its costliness and profusion, but +for a pervading air of graceful originality. She is quite sensible +of the regard due to the reigning fashion of the day, but her own +tasteful discrimination is always perceptible. She instinctively +avoids every thing that is hackneyed, vulgar, and common place, +and uniformly succeeds in pleasing by the judicious novelties she +introduces. + +We hope, therefore, that this unpretending little work may not prove +wholly unacceptable, even to those ladies who are not of the Hebrew +persuasion, as it will serve as a sequel to the books on cookery +previously in their possession, and be the medium of presenting them +with numerous receipts for rare and exquisite compositions, which if +uncommemorated by the genius of Vatêl, Ude, or Carême, are delicious +enough not only to gratify the lovers of good cheer generally, but to +merit the unqualified approbation of the most fastidious epicures. + +We ought, perhaps, to apologize for the apparent incongruity of +connecting the "Toilet" with the "Kitchen;" but the receipts and +suggestions comprised in the Second Part of the work before us, +will not, we trust, be considered misplaced in a volume addressed +exclusively to the ladies. + +Many of the receipts are for articles in common use, but which, with +proper directions, are prepared with greater economy and in a superior +manner at home; the others are all original receipts, many of them +extremely ancient, and given to us by a person who can vouch for their +efficacy from personal experience and observation. + +We must now conclude our preliminary remarks, but cannot take leave of +our patient readers without availing ourselves of the opportunity our +editorial capacity affords, to express our hope, that with all its +faults and deficiencies "The Jewish Manual" may prove to them a useful +assistant, and be fortunate enough to meet with their lenient, kind, +and favourable consideration. + + + + +CONTENTS. + + * * * * * + +PART I. + +INTRODUCTION. + + +MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS FOR THE USE OF THE COOK + + * * * * * + +CHAPTER I. SOUPS + +CHAPTER II. SAUCES AND FORCEMEAT + +CHAPTER III. FISH + +CHAPTER IV. MEATS AND POULTRY COOKED IN VARIOUS WAYS + +CHAPTER V. VEGETABLES, OMELETTES, FONDEAUX, CROQUETTES, RISOLES, &C. + +CHAPTER VI. PASTRY + +CHAPTER VII. SWEET DISHES, PUDDINGS, JELLIES, CREAMS, CHARLOTTES, +SOUFLES, GATEAUX, TRIFLES, CUSTARDS, CAKES, &C. + +CHAPTER VIII. PRESERVES AND BOTTLING + +CHAPTER IX. PICKLING + +CHAPTER X. RECEIPTS FOR INVALIDS + +APPENDIX + + +THE TOILETTE. + + * * * * * + +CHAPTER I. THE COMPLEXION, &c., &c. + +CHAPTER II. THE HAIR + +CHAPTER III. THE TEETH + +CHAPTER IV. THE HANDS AND NAILS + +CHAPTER V. DRESS + +CHAPTER VI. EFFECTS OF DIET ON THE COMPLEXION + +CHAPTER VII. INFLUENCE OF THE MIND AS REGARDS BEAUTY + + + + +GLOSSARY. + + +_Aspie_, a term used for savoury jelly, in which cold poultry, meat, +&c., is often served. + +_Bain-Marie_. This is a large pan filled with boiling water, in which +several saucepans can be placed when their contents are required to be +kept hot without boiling--this is a useful article in a kitchen, where +the manner in which sauces are prepared is considered deserving of +attention. + +_Béchamel_, a superior kind of white sauce, used in French cookery. + +_Blanquette_, a kind of fricassee with a white sauce. + +_Bola-d'amour_, a very rich and expensive Spanish confection. + +_Bolas_, a kind of rich cake or pudding. + +_Cassereet_, a sauce prepared from the cassada, a West Indian +plant--it must be used with moderation. + +_Casserole_, a name given to a crust formed of rice baked, and then +filled with mince, fricassee, or fruit. + +_Chorissa_, a sausage peculiar to the Jewish kitchen, of delicate and +_piquante_ flavour. + +_Consommé_, is a term now used for stock--it is a clear strong broth, +forming the basis of all soups, sauces, gravies, &c. + +_Croquettes_ and _Risoles_; preparations of forcemeat, formed into +fancy shapes, and fried. + +_Croutons_, sippets of bread or toast, to garnish hashes, salmis, &c., +are so called. + +_Doce_, a mixture of sugar with almonds _or_ cocoa-nut. + +_Entrées_. These are side-dishes, for the first course, consisting +of cutlets, vol au vents, fricassees, fillets, sweetbreads, salmis, +scallops, &c., &c. + +_Entremets_. These are side-dishes for the second course; they +comprise dressed vegetables, puddings, gateaux, pastries, fritters, +creams, jellies, timbales, &c. + +_Farcie_, a French term for forcemeat; it is a mixture of savoury +ingredients, used for croquettes, balls, &c. Meat is by no means a +necessary ingredient, although the English word might seem to imply +the contrary. + +_Fondeaux_, and Fondus, are savoury kinds of souflés. + +_Fricandeaux_, a term for small well-trimmed pieces of meat, stewed in +various ways. + +_Fricassee_. This is a name used for delicate stews, when the articles +are cut in pieces. + +_Fricandelles_. These are very small fricandeaux, two or three of +which are served on one dish, and they sometimes also are delicate, +but highly-flavoured minces, formed into any approved shapes. + +Flanks are large standing side-dishes. + +_Gateaux_, is a kind of cake or pudding. + +_Hors d'oeuvres._ These are light entrées in the first course; they +are sometimes called _assiettes_ volantes; they are handed during the +first course; they comprise anchovies, fish salads, patties of various +kinds, croquettes, risolles, maccaroni, &c. + +_Maigre_, made without meat. + +_Matso_, Passover cakes. + +_Miroton_, a savoury preparation of veal or poultry, formed in a +mould. + +_Nouilles_, a kind of vermicelli paste. + +_Piqué_, a French term used to express the process of larding. The +French term is a preferable one, as it more clearly indicates what is +meant. + +_Purée_ is a term given to a preparation of meat or vegetables, +reduced to a pulp, and mixed with any kind of sauce, to the +consistency of thick cream. _Purées_ of vegetables are much used in +modern cookery, to serve with cutlets, callops, &c. + +_Ramekin_, a savoury and delicate preparation of cheese, generally +served in fringed paper cases. + +_Releves_, or _Removes_, are top and bottom dishes, which replace the +soup and fish. + +_Salmis_, a hash, only a superior kind, being more delicately +seasoned, and usually made of cold poultry. + +_Souflés_, a term applied to a very light kind of pudding, made +with some farinaceous substance, and generally replaces the roast of a +second course. + +_Timbale_, a shape of maccaroni or rice made in a mould. + +_Vol-au-vent_. This is a sort of case, made of very rich puff paste, +filled with delicate fricassee of fish, meat, or poultry, or richly +stewed fruits. + +_Vélouté_, an expensive white sauce. + + + + +OBSERVATIONS FOR THE USE OF THE COOK. + + +The receipts we have given are capable of being varied and modified by +an intelligent pains-taking cook, to suit the tastes of her employers. + +Where _one_ receipt has been thought sufficient to convey the +necessary instruction for several dishes, &c., &c., it has not been +repeated for each respectively, which plan will tend to facilitate her +task. + +We might, had we been inclined, have increased our collection +considerably by so doing, but have decided, from our own experience, +that it is preferable to give a limited number clearly and fully +explained, as these will always serve as guides and models for others +of the same kind. + +The cook must remember it is not enough to have ascertained the +ingredients and quantities requisite, but great care and attention +must be paid to the manner of mixing them, and in watching their +progress when mixed and submitted to the fire. + +The management of the oven and the fire deserve attention, and cannot +be regulated properly without practice and observation. + +The art of seasoning is difficult and important. + +Great judgment is required in blending the different spices or other +condiments, so that a fine flavour is produced without the undue +preponderance of either. + +It is only in coarse cooking that the flavour of onions, pepper, +garlic, nutmeg, and eschalot is permitted to prevail. As a general +rule, salt should be used in moderation. + +Sugar is an improvement in nearly all soups, sauces, and gravies; also +with stewed vegetables, but of course must be used with discretion. + +Ketchups, Soy, Harvey's sauce, &c., are used too indiscrimately by +inferior cooks; it is better to leave them to be added at table by +those who approve of their flavour. + +Any thing that is required to be warmed up a second time, should be +set in a basin placed in a _bain-marie_, or saucepan, filled with +boiling water, but which must not be allowed to boil; or the article +will become hardened and the sauce dried up. + +To remove every particle of fat from the gravies of stews, &c., a +piece of white blotting-paper should be laid on the surface, and the +fat will adhere to it; this should be repeated two or three times. + +It is important to keep saucepans well skimmed; the best prepared dish +will be spoiled by neglect on this point. + +The difference between good and bad cookery is particularly +discernible in the preparation of forcemeats. A common cook is +satistified if she chops or minces the ingredients and moistens them +with an egg scarcely beaten, but this is a very crude and imperfect +method; they should be pounded together in a mortar until not a lump +or fibre is perceptible. Further directions will be given in the +proper place, but this is a rule which must be strictly attended to by +those who wish to attain any excellence in this branch of their art. + +Eggs for forcemeats, and for every description of sweet dishes, should +be thoroughly beaten, and for the finer kinds should be passed through +a sieve. + +A trustworthy zealous servant must keep in mind, that waste and +extravagance are no proofs of skill. On the contrary, GOOD COOKERY +is by no means expensive, as it makes the most of every thing, and +furnishes out of simple and economical materials, dishes which are at +once palatable and elegant. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + + +Soups. + +STOCK OR CONSOMMÉ. + +This is the basis of all kinds of soup and sauces. Shin of beef or +ox-cheek make excellent stock, although good gravy-beef is sometimes +preferred; the bones should always be broken, and the meat cut up, as +the juices are better extracted; it is advisable to put on, at first, +but very little water, and to add more when the first quantity is +nearly dried up. The time required for boiling depends upon the +quantity of meat; six pounds of meat will take about five hours; if +bones, the same quantity will require double the time. + +Gravy beef with a knuckle of veal makes a fine and nutritious stock; +the stock for white soups should be prepared with veal or white +poultry. Very tolerable stock can be procured without purchasing meat +expressly for the purpose, by boiling down bones and the trimmings of +meat or poultry. + +The liquor in which beef or mutton intended for the table has been +boiled, will also, with small additions and skilful flavoring, make an +excellent soup at a trifling expense. + +To thicken soups, mix a little potatoe-flour, ground rice, or pounded +vermicelli, in a little water, till perfectly smooth; add a little of +the soup to it in a cup, until sufficiently thin, then pour it into +the rest and boil it up, to prevent the raw taste it would otherwise +have; the presence of the above ingredients should not be discovered, +and judgment and care are therefore requisite. + +If colouring is necessary, a crust of bread stewed in the stock will +give a fine brown, or the common browning may be used; it is made in +the following manner: + +Put one pound of coarse brown sugar in a stew-pan with a lump of +clarified suet; when it begins to froth, pour in a wine-glass of port +wine, half an ounce of black pepper, a little mace, four spoonsful +of ketchup or Harvey's sauce, a little salt, and the peel of a lemon +grated; boil all together, let it grow cold, when it must be skimmed +and bottled for use. + +It may also be prepared as required, by putting a small piece of +clarified fat with one ounce of coarse sugar, in an iron spoon, +melting them together, and stirring in a little ketchup and pepper. + +When good stock or consommé is prepared, it is very easy to form it +into any kind of soup or sauce that may be required. + + * * * * * + +GRAVY SOUP. + +Take about three quarts of any strong stock, seasoned with a bunch of +sweet herbs, a carrot, turnip, and a head of celery, which must not +be served in the soup. Vermicelli, maccaroni, or thin slices of carrot +and small sippets of fried bread cut in fancy shapes, are usually +served in this soup. + + * * * * * + +MOCK TURTLE. + +Half boil a well-cleaned calf's head, then cut off all the meat in +small square pieces, and break the bones; return it to the stew-pan, +with some good stock made of beef and veal; dredge in flour, add fried +shalot, pepper, parsley, tarragon, a little mushroom ketchup, and a +pint of white wine; simmer gently until the meat is perfectly soft and +tender. Balls of force-meat, and egg-balls, should be put in a +short time before serving; the juice of a lemon is considered an +improvement. + + * * * * * + +MULIGATAWNY SOUP. + +Take two chickens, cut them up small, as if for fricassee, flour +them well, put them in a saucepan with four onions shred, a piece of +clarified fat, pepper, salt, and two table spoonsful of curry powder; +let it simmer for an hour, then add three quarts of strong beef gravy, +and let it continue simmering for another hour; before sent to table +the juice of a lemon should be stirred in it; some persons approve of +a little rice being boiled with the stock, and a pinch of saffron is +also sometimes added. + + * * * * * + +ENGLISH MULIGATAWNY. + +Take a knuckle of veal, stew it till half done, then cut off the +greatest part of the meat, and continue to stew down the bone in +the stock, the meat must be cut into small pieces and fried with six +onions thinly sliced, and a table spoonful of curry powder, a desert +spoonful of cayenne pepper and salt, add the stock and let the whole +gently simmer for nearly an hour, flavouring it with a little Harvey's +sauce and lemon pickle. + + * * * * * + +SOUP A LA JULIENNE. + +Take a variety of vegetables: such as celery, carrots, turnips, leeks, +cauliflower, lettuce, and onions, cut them in shreds of small size, +place them in a stew-pan with a little fine salad oil, stew them +gently over the fire, adding weak broth from time to time; toast a +few slices of bread and cut them into pieces the size and shape of +shillings and crowns, soak them in the remainder of the broth, and +when the vegetables are well done add all together and let it simmer +for a few minutes; a lump of white sugar, with pepper and salt are +sufficient seasoning. + + * * * * * + +SOUPE A LA TURQUE. + +Make a good gravy from shin of beef, and cut up very small various +sorts of vegetables of whatever may be in season, add spices, pepper, +and salt; when it is all stewed well down together, set it to cool and +take off the fat, then place it again on the fire to boil, and add to +two quarts of soup, one quarter of a pound of rice, beat two yolks of +eggs with a little of the stock, and when the rice is quite tender, +stir them into the soup, taking the precaution not to let the soup +boil, and to stir always the same way. + + * * * * * + +PEPPER POT. + +Cut small pieces of any vegetables, and add pieces of smoked or salt +beef, and also of any cold poultry, roast beef or mutton, stew all +these together in two or three quarts of water, according to the +quantity of meat, &c. It must be seasoned highly with whole peppers, +allspice, mace, Jamaica pickles, and salt; it must be thoroughly +stewed, and served, without straining, in a tureen. + + * * * * * + +POTATOE SOUP. + +Grate a pound of fine potatoes in two quarts of water, add to it the +trimmings of any meat, amounting to about a pound in quantity, a cup +of rice, a few sweet herbs, and a head of celery, stew well till the +liquor is considerably reduced, then strain it through a sieve; if, +when strained, it is too thin and watery, add a little thickening; it +should be flavoured only with white pepper and salt. + + * * * * * + +SOUP CRESSY. + +Grate six carrots, and chop some onions with a lettuce, adding a few +sweet herbs, put them all into a stewpan, with enough of good broth +to moisten the whole, adding occasionally the remainder; when nearly +done, put in the crumb of a French roll, and when soaked, strain the +whole through a sieve, and serve hot in a tureen. + + * * * * * + +CARROT SOUP. + +Take a dozen carrots scraped clean, rasp them, but do not use the +core, two heads of celery, two onions thinly sliced, season to taste, +and pour over a good stock, say about two quarts, boil it, then pass +it through a sieve; it should be of the thickness of cream, return it +to the saucepan, boil it up and squeeze in a little lemon juice, or +add a little vinegar. + + * * * * * + +PALESTINE SOUP. + +Stew a knuckle of veal, and a calf's foot, and one pound of +_chorissa_, and a large fowl, in four quarts of water, add a piece of +fresh lemon peel, six Jerusalem artichokes, a bunch of sweet herbs, +a little salt and white pepper, and a little nutmeg, and a blade of +mace; when the fowl is thoroughly done, remove the white parts to +prepare for thickening, and let the rest continue stewing till the +stock is sufficiently strong, the white parts of the fowl must be +pounded and sprinkled with flower or ground rice, and stirred in the +soup after it has been strained, until it thickens. + + * * * * * + +A SIMPLE WHITE SOUP. + +Break a knuckle of veal, place it in a stewpan, also a piece of +_chorissa_, a carrot, two onions, three or four turnips, and a blade +of mace, pour over two or three quarts of water or weak broth, +season with salt, a sprig of parsley, and whole white pepper; when +sufficiently boiled, skim and strain it, and thicken with pounded +vermicelli. + + * * * * * + +VERMICELLI SOUP. + +Make a fine strong stock from the shin of beef, or any other part +preferred, and add, a short time before serving, a handful of +vermicelli, which should be broken, so that it may be in pieces of +convenient length, the stock should be more or less flavoured with +vegetables, and herbs, according to taste. + + * * * * * + +MATSO SOUP. + +Boil down half a shin of beef, four pounds of gravy beef, and a calf's +foot may be added, if approved, in three or four quarts of water; +season with celery, carrots, turnips, pepper and salt, and a bunch of +sweet herbs; let the whole stew gently for eight hours, then strain +and let it stand to get cold, when the fat must be removed, then +return it to the saucepan to warm up. Ten minutes before serving, +throw in the balls, from which the soup takes its name, and which are +made in the following manner: + +Take half a pound of _matso_ flour, two ounces of chopped suet, season +with a little pepper, salt, ginger, and nutmeg; mix with this, four +beaten eggs, and make it into a paste, a small onion shred and browned +in a desert spoonful of oil is sometimes added; the paste should be +made into rather large balls, and care should be taken to make them +very light. + + * * * * * + +TOMATA SOUP. + +Take a dozen unpealed tomatas, with a bit of clarified suet, or a +little sweet oil, and a small Spanish onion; sprinkle with flour, and +season with salt and cayenne pepper, and boil them in a little gravy +or water; it must be stirred to prevent burning, then pass it through +a sieve, and thin it with rich stock to the consistency of winter +pea-soup; flavour it with lemon juice, according to taste, after it +has been warmed up and ready for serving. + + * * * * * + +ALMONDEGOS SOUP: A SUPERIOR WHITE SOUP. + +Put a knuckle of veal and a calf's foot into two quarts of water, with +a blade of mace and a bunch of sweet herbs, a turnip, a little white +pepper, and salt; when sufficiently done, strain and skim it, and +add balls of forced meat, and egg balls. A quarter of an hour before +serving beat up the yolks of four eggs with a desert spoonful of lemon +juice, and three ounces of sweet almonds blanched and beaten with a +spoonful of powdered white sugar. This mixture is to be stirred into +the soup till it thickens, taking care to prevent its curdling. + + * * * * * + +A FINE VEGETABLE OR FRENCH SOUP. + +Take two quarts of strong stock made of gravy beef, add to this, +carrots, turnips, leek, celery, brocoli, peas and French beans, all +cut as small as possible, add a few lumps of white sugar, pepper, and +salt, let it simmer till the vegetables are perfectly soft, and throw +in a few force-meat balls. + + * * * * * + +ASPARAGUS SOUP. + +Take eight pounds of gravy beef, with five pints of water, a few sweet +herbs, and an onion shred, with a little pepper and salt; when the +strength of the meat is sufficiently extracted, strain off the soup, +and add to it a bundle of asparagus, cut small, with a little chopped +parsley and mint; the asparagus should be thoroughly done. A few +minutes before serving, throw in some fried bread cut up the size +of dice; pound a little spinach to a pulp, and squeeze it through a +cloth, stir about a tea-cup full of this essence into the soup, let it +boil up after to prevent a raw taste. + + * * * * * + +SOUP MAIGRE. + +Chop three lettuces, a large handful of spinach, a little chervil, a +head of celery, two or three carrots, and four onions, put them on +the fire with half a pound of butter, and let them fry till slightly +browned, season with a little salt, sifted white sugar, and white +pepper, stew all gently in five pints of boiling water for about two +hours and a half, and just before serving the soup, thicken it with +the beaten yolks of four eggs, mixed first with a little of the soup, +and then stirred into the remainder. + + * * * * * + +SUMMER PEA SOUP. + +Take a peck of peas, separate the old from the young, boil the former +till they are quite tender in good stock, then pass them through a +sieve, and return them to the stock, add the young peas, a little +chopped lettuce, small pieces of cucumber fried to a light brown, a +little bit of mint, pepper, and salt; two or three lumps of sugar give +a fine flavor. + + * * * * * + +WINTER PEA SOUP. + +Soak a quart of white peas in water, boil them till soft, in as much +water as will cover them, pass them through a sieve, and add them to +any broth that may be ready, a little piece of _chorissa_ or smoked +beef will improve the flavour; this soup should be served with mint +and fried bread. + + * * * * * + +GIBLET SOUP. + +Add to a fine strong well-seasoned beef stock, of about three quarts, +two sets of giblets, which should be previously stewed separately in +one quart of water (the gizzards require scalding for some time before +they are put in with the rest); white pepper, salt, and the rind of +lemon should season them; when they are tender, add them with their +gravy to the stock, and boil for about ten minutes together, then stir +in a glass of white wine, a table spoonful of mushroom ketchup, and +the juice of half a lemon; it will require to be thickened with a +little flour browned; the giblets are served in the soup. + + * * * * * + +BARLEY SOUP. + +Put in a stew-pan, a knuckle of mutton, or four pounds of the neck, +with three quarts of water, boil it gently and keep it well skimmed; +a sprig of parsley, a couple of sliced turnips, a carrot, an onion or +more, if approved, with a little white pepper and salt, are sufficient +seasoning, a breakfast cup full of barley should be scalded and put in +the stew-pan with the meat, if when done, the soup is thin and watery, +a little prepared barley, mixed smoothly, should be stirred in. + + * * * * * + +SOUP DE POISSON, OR FISH SOUP. + +Make a good stock, by simmering a cod's-head in water, enough to cover +the fish; season it with pepper and salt, mace, celery, parsley, and +a few sweet herbs, with two or three onions, when sufficiently done, +strain it, and add cutlets of fish prepared in the following manner: +cut very small, well-trimmed cutlets from any fish, sole or brill are +perhaps best suited; stew them in equal quantities of water and wine, +but not more than will cover them, with a large lump of butter, and +the juice of a lemon; when they have stewed gently for about fifteen +or twenty minutes, add them to the soup, which thicken with cream and +flour, serve the soup with the cutlets in a tureen; force-meat balls +of cod's liver are sometimes added. + + * * * * * + +OX TAIL SOUP. + +Have two well cleaned tails and a neat's foot, cut them in small +joints and soak them in water, put them in a stew-pan with a large +piece of clarified suet or fat, and let them simmer for ten minutes, +then put to them between three and four quarts of cold water, four +onions, a bunch of sweet herbs, a carrot, a turnip, a head of celery, +and season with whole pepper, allspice, two or three cloves, and salt; +let it stew till the meat is tender enough to leave the bones, then +remove it from them, as the bones are unsightly in the soup; thicken +if necessary with browned flour, and just before serving, add a glass +or more of port wine, and a little mushroom ketchup. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + + +Sauces. + +A RICH BROWN GRAVY. + +Take a little good beef consommé, or stock, a small piece of smoked +beef, or _chorissa_, a lemon sliced, some chopped shalots, a couple +of onions shred, a bay leaf, two or three cloves, and a little oil; +simmer gently, and add a little minced parsley, and a few chopped +mushrooms: skim and strain. + + * * * * * + +SAUCE PIQUANTE. + +The above may be rendered a Sauce Piquante by substituting a little +vinegar, whole capers, allspice, and thyme, instead of the smoked +beef and lemon; a few onions and piccalilli chopped finely, is a great +addition when required to be very piquante. + +A sauce like the above is very good to serve with beef that has been +boiled for broth. + + * * * * * + +A GOOD GRAVY FOR ROAST FOWLS. + +Take a little stock, squeeze in the juice of a lemon, add a little +mushroom powder, cayenne pepper and salt; thicken with flour. + + * * * * * + +ANOTHER EXCELLENT RECEIPT. + +Chop some mushrooms, young and fresh, salt them, and put them into a +saucepan with a little gravy, made of the trimmings of the fowl, or +of veal, a blade of mace, a little grated lemon peel, the juice of +one lemon; thicken with flour, and when ready to serve, stir in a +table-spoonful of white wine. + + * * * * * + +EGG SAUCE: A FINE WHITE SAUCE FOR BOILED CHICKENS, TURKEYS, OR WHITE +FRICASSEES. + +Beat up the yolks of four eggs with the juice of a fine lemon, a +tea-spoonful of flour, and a little cold water, mix well together, and +set it on the fire to thicken, stirring it to prevent curdling. This +sauce will be found excellent, if not superior, in many cases where +English cooks use melted butter. If capers are substituted for the +lemon juice, this sauce will be found excellent for boiled lamb or +mutton. + + * * * * * + +CELERY SAUCE. + +Cut in small pieces from about four to five heads of celery, which if +not very young must be peeled, simmer it till tender in half a pint of +veal gravy, if intended for white sauce, then add a spoonful of flour, +the yolks of three eggs, white pepper, salt, and the juice of one +lemon, these should be previously mixed together with a little water +till perfectly smooth and thin, and be stirred in with the sauce; +cream, instead of eggs, is used in English kitchens. + + * * * * * + +TOMATO SAUCE. + +Skin a dozen fine tomatos, set them on the fire in a little water +or gravy, beat them up with a little vinegar, lemon juice, cayenne +pepper, and salt; some persons like the yolk of an egg, well beaten +added. Strain or not, as may be preferred. + + * * * * * + +GRAVY FOR A FOWL, WHEN THERE IS NO STOCK TO MAKE IT WITH. + +Take the feet, wash them, cut them small, also the neck and gizzard; +season them with pepper and salt, onion, and parsley, let them simmer +gently for some time, in about a breakfast-cup of water, then strain, +thicken with flour, and add a little browning, and if liked, a small +quantity of any store sauce at hand, and it will prove an excellent +sauce. + + * * * * * + +SAVOURY JELLY, FOR COLD PIES, OR TO GARNISH COLD POULTRY. + +Have a bare knuckle of veal, and a calf's foot or cow heel; put it +into a stew-pan with a thick slice of smoked beef, a few herbs, a +blade of mace, two or three onions, a little lemon peel, pepper +and salt, and three or four pints of water (the French add a little +tarragon vinegar). When it boils skim it, and when cold, if not clear, +boil it a few minutes with the white and shell of an egg, and pass it +through a jelly bag, this jelly with the juice of two or three lemons, +and poured into a mould, in which are put the yolks of eggs boiled +hard, forms a pretty supper dish. + + * * * * * + +A FINE SAUCE FOR STEAKS. + +Throw into a saucepan a piece of fat the size of an egg, with two +or three onions sliced, let them brown; add a little gravy, flour, a +little vinegar, a spoonful of mustard, and a little cayenne pepper, +boil it and serve with the steaks. + + * * * * * + +A FISH SAUCE WITHOUT BUTTER. + +Put on, in a small saucepan, a cup of water, well flavored with +vinegar, an onion chopped fine, a little rasped horse-radish, pepper, +and two or three cloves, and a couple of anchovies cut small, when it +has boiled, stir carefully in the beaten yolks of two eggs, and let it +thicken, until of the consistency of melted butter. + + * * * * * + +A FINE FISH SAUCE. + +One teacup full of walnut pickle, the same of mushroom ditto, three +anchovies pounded, one clove of garlic pounded, half a tea-spoonful of +cayenne pepper, all mixed well together, and bottled for use. + + * * * * * + +A NICE SAUCE TO THROW OVER BROILED MEATS. + +Beat up a little salad-oil with a table-spoonful of vinegar, mustard, +pepper and salt, and then stir in the yolk of an egg; this sauce +should be highly seasoned. A sauce of this description is sometimes +used to baste mutton while roasting, the meat should be scored in +different places to allow the sauce to penetrate. + + * * * * * + +SAUCE FOR DUCKS. + +A little good gravy, with a glass of port wine, the juice of a lemon, +highly seasoned with cayenne pepper. + + * * * * * + +BREAD SAUCE. + +Take a large onion and boil it, with a little pepper till quite soft, +in milk, then take it out, and pour the milk over grated stale bread, +then boil it up with a piece of butter, and dredge it with flour; it +should be well beaten up with a silver fork. + +The above can be made without butter or milk: take a large onion, +slice it thin, put it into a little veal gravy, add grated bread, +pepper, &c., and the yolk and white of an egg well beaten. + + * * * * * + +APPLE SAUCE FOR GOOSE. + +Slice some apples, put them in a little water to simmer till soft, +beat them to a pulp; some consider a little powdered sugar an +improvement, but as the acid of the apples is reckoned a corrective to +the richness of the goose, it is usually preferred without. + + * * * * * + +MINT SAUCE. + +Mix vinegar with brown sugar, let it stand about an hour, then add +chopped mint, and stir together. + + * * * * * + +ONION SAUCE. + +Slice finely, and brown in a little oil, two or three onions; put them +in a little beef gravy, and add cayenne pepper, salt, and the juice of +a lemon. This is a nice sauce for steaks. + + * * * * * + +OILED BUTTER. + +Put some good butter into a cup or jar, and place it before the fire +till it becomes an oil, then pour it off, so that all sediment may be +avoided. + + * * * * * + +TO DRAW GOOD GRAVY. + + * * * * * + +Cut some gravy beef into small pieces, put them in a jar, and set it +in a saucepan of cold water to boil gently for seven or eight hours, +adding, from time to time, more water as the original quantity boils +away. The gravy thus made will be the essence of the meat, and in +cases where nutriment is required in the smallest compass, will be +of great service. Soups are stronger when the meat is cut, and gravy +drawn before water is added. + + * * * * * + +TRUFFLE SAUCE. + +Peel and slice as many truffles as required, simmer them gently with +a little butter, when they are tender, add to them good white or brown +consommé, lemon juice, pepper, salt, nutmeg, and a very little white +wine. + + * * * * * + +MUSHROOM SAUCE. + +Take about a pint of fine young button mushrooms, let them stew gently +in a white veal gravy seasoned with salt, pepper, a blade of mace, and +if approved, the grated peel of half a lemon, it should be thickened +with flour and the yolk of an egg stirred in it, just before serving; +English cooks add cream to this sauce. + + * * * * * + +SWEET SAUCE. + +The usual way of making sauces for puddings, is by adding sugar +to melted butter, or thin egg sauce, flavoring it with white wine, +brandy, lemon peel, or any other flavor approved of. + + * * * * * + +MELTED BUTTER. + +Although this sauce is one of the most simple, it is very rarely that +it is well made. Mix with four ounces of butter, a desert spoonful +of flour, when well mixed, add three table spoonsful of water, put it +into a clean saucepan kept for the purpose, and stir it carefully +one way till it boils; white sauce to throw over vegetables served on +toast, is made in the same way, only putting milk and water, instead +of water only. + + * * * * * + +SAUCE WITHOUT BUTTER FOR BOILED PUDDINGS. + +Mix a table-spoonful of flour, with two of water, add a little wine, +lemon peel grated, a small bit of clarified suet, of the size of a +walnut, grated nutmeg, and sugar, put on in a saucepan, stirring one +way, and adding water if too thick, lemon juice, or essence of noyeau, +or almonds may be substituted to vary the flavour. + + * * * * * + +SAUCE ROBERT FOR STEAKS. + +Chop up some onions, throw them into a saucepan with a bit of +clarified fat, let them fry till brown, then add pepper, salt, a +little gravy, mustard, lemon juice, and vinegar; boil it all, and pour +over the steaks. + + * * * * * + +CAPER SAUCE. + +This is merely melted butter with a few pickled capers simmered in it, +or they may be put into a sauce made of broth thickened with egg, and +a little flour. + + * * * * * + +SAVORY HERB POWDER. + +It is useful to select a variety of herbs, so that they may always +be at hand for use: the following are considered to be an excellent +selection, parsley, savory, thyme, sweet majoram, shalot, chervil, and +sage, in equal quantities; dry these in the oven, pound them finely +and keep them in bottles well stopped. + + * * * * * + +SEASONING FOR DUCKS AND GEESE. + +Mix chopped onion with an equal quantity of chopped sage, three times +as much grated stale bread, a little shred suet, pepper, salt, and a +beaten egg to bind it, this is generally used for geese and ducks, the +onions are sometimes boiled first to render them less strong. + + * * * * * + +ENGLISH EGG SAUCE. + +Boil two eggs hard, chop them finely, and warm them up in finely made +melted butter, add a little white pepper, salt, a blade of mace, and a +very small quantity of nutmeg. + + * * * * * + +SAUCE A LA TARTARE. + +Mix the yolk of an egg with oil, vinegar, chopped parsley, mustard, +pepper, and salt; a spoonful of paté de diable or French mustard, +renders the sauce more piquante. + + * * * * * + +A FINE SAUCE FOR ROAST MUTTON. + +Mix a little port wine in some gravy, two table-spoonfuls of vinegar, +one of oil, a shalot minced, and a spoonful of mustard, just before +the mutton is served, pour the sauce over it, then sprinkle it with +fried bread crumbs, and then again baste the meat with the sauce; this +is a fine addition to the mutton. + + * * * * * + +ASPARAGUS SAUCE, TO SERVE WITH LAMB CHOPS. + +Cut some asparagus, or sprew, into half inch lengths, wash them, and +throw them into half a pint of gravy made from beef, veal, or mutton +thickened, and seasoned with salt, white pepper, and a lump of white +sugar, the chops should be delicately fried and the sauce served in +the centre of the dish. + + * * * * * + +BROWN CUCUMBER SAUCE. + +Peel and cut in thick slices, one or more fresh cucumbers, fry them +until brown in a little butter, or clarified fat, then add to them +a little strong beef gravy, pepper, salt, and a spoonful of vinegar; +some cooks add a chopped onion browned with the cucumbers. + + * * * * * + +WHITE CUCUMBER SAUCE. + +Take out the seeds of some fresh young cucumbers, quarter them, and +cut them into pieces of two inch lengths, let them lay for an hour in +vinegar and water, then simmer them till thoroughly soft, in a veal +broth seasoned with pepper, salt, and a little lemon juice; when ready +for serving, pour off the gravy and thicken it with the yolks of a +couple of eggs stirred in, add it to the saucepan; warm up, taking +care that it does not curdle. + + * * * * * + +BROWNED FLOUR FOR MAKING SOUPS AND GRAVIES DARK AND THICK. + +Spread flour on a tin, and place it in a Dutch oven before the fire, +or in a gentle oven till it browns; it must often be turned, that the +flour may be equally coloured throughout. A small quantity of this +prepared and laid by for use, will be found useful. + + * * * * * + +BROWNED BREAD CRUMBS. + +Grate into fine crumbs, about five or six ounces of stale bread, +and brown them in a gentle oven or before the fire; this is a more +delicate way of browning them than by frying. + + * * * * * + +CRISPED PARSLEY. + +Wash and drain a handful of fresh young sprigs of parsley, dry +them with a cloth, place them before the fire on a dish, turn them +frequently, and they will be perfectly crisp in ten minutes. + + * * * * * + +FRIED PARSLEY. + +When the parsley is prepared as above, fry it in butter or clarified +suet, then drain it on a cloth placed before the fire. + + * * * * * + +BREAD CRUMBS FOR FRYING. + +Cut slices of bread without crust, and dry them gradually in a cool +oven till quite dry and crisp, then roll them into fine crumbs, and +put them in a jar for use. + + * * * * * + +SPINACH GREEN. + +Pound to a pulp in a mortar a handful of spinach, and squeeze it +through a hair sieve; then put it into a cup or jar, and place it in +a basin of hot water for a few minutes, or it may be allowed to simmer +on the fire; a little of this stirred into spring soups, improve their +appearance. + + * * * * * + +VELOUTÉ, BECHAMEL. + +These preparations are so frequently mentioned in modern cookery, that +we shall give the receipts for them, although they are not appropriate +for the Jewish kitchen. Velouté is a fine white sauce, made by +reducing a certain quantity of well-flavoured consommé or stock, +over a charcoal fire, and mixing it with boiling cream, stirring it +carefully till it thickens. + +Béchamel is another sort of fine white stock, thickened with cream, +there is more flavouring in this than the former, the stock is made of +veal, with some of the smoked meats used in English kitchens, butter, +mace, onion, mushrooms, bay leaf, nutmeg, and a little salt. An +excellent substitute for these sauces can in Jewish kitchens be made +in the following way: + +Take some veal broth flavored with smoked beef, and the above named +seasonings, then beat up two or three yolks of eggs, with a little of +the stock and a spoonful of potatoe flour, stir this into the +broth, until it thickens, it will not be quite as white, but will be +excellent. + + * * * * * + +FORCEMEAT OR FARCIE. + +Under this head is included the various preparations used for balls, +tisoles, fritters, and stuffings for poultry and veal, it is a branch +of cooking which requires great care and judgment, the proportions +should be so blended as to produce a delicate, yet savoury flavor, +without allowing any particular herb or spice to predominate. + +The ingredients should always be pounded well together in a mortar, +not merely chopped and moistened with egg, as is usually done by +inexperienced cooks; forcemeat can be served in a variety of forms, +and is so useful a resource, that it well repays the attention it +requires. + + * * * * * + +A SUPERIOR FORCEMEAT FOR RISOLLES, FRITTERS, AND SAVORY MEAT BALLS. + +Scrape half a pound of the fat of smoked beef, and a pound of lean +veal, free from skin, vein, or sinew, pound it finely in a mortar +with chopped mushrooms, a little minced parsley, salt and pepper, +and grated lemon peel, then have ready the crumb of two French rolls +soaked in good gravy, press out the moisture, and add the crumb to the +meat with three beaten eggs; if the forcemeat is required to be very +highly flavored, the gravy in which the rolls are soaked should be +seasoned with mushroom powder; a spoonful of ketchup, a bay leaf, an +onion, pepper, salt, and lemon juice, add this panada to the pounded +meat and eggs, form the mixture into any form required, and either fry +or warm in gravy, according to the dish for which it is intended. + +Any cold meats pounded, seasoned, and made according to the above +method are excellent; the seasoning can be varied, or rendered simpler +if required. + + * * * * * + +COMMON VEAL, STUFFING. + +Have equal quantities of finely shred suet and grated crumbs of bread, +add chopped sweet herbs, grated lemon peel, pepper, and salt, pound it +in a mortar; this is also used for white poultry, with the addition +of a little grated smoked beef, or a piece of the root of a tongue +pounded and mixed with the above ingredients. + + * * * * * + +FISH FORCEMEAT. + +Chop finely any kind of fish, that which has been already dressed +will answer the purpose, then pound it in a mortar with a couple of +anchovies, or a little anchovy essence, the yolk of a hard boiled +egg, a little butter, parsley or any other herb which may be approved, +grated lemon peel, and a little of the juice, then add a little bread +previously soaked, and mix the whole into a paste, and form into +balls, or use for stuffing, &c. + +The liver or roe of fish is well suited to add to the fish, as it is +rich and delicate. + + * * * * * + +FORCEMEAT FOR DRESSING FISH FILLETS. + +Pound finely anchovies, grated bread, chopped parsley, and the yolk of +a hard boiled egg, add grated lemon peel, a little lemon juice, pepper +and salt, and make into a paste with two eggs. + + * * * * * + +FORCEMEAT FOR DRESSING CUTLETS, ETC. + +Add to grated stale bread, an equal quantity of chopped parsley, +season it well, and mix it with clarified suet, then brush the cutlets +with beaten yolks of eggs, lay on the mixture thickly with a knife, +and sprinkle over with dry and fine bread crumbs. + + * * * * * + +EGG BALLS. + +Beat the hard yolks of eggs in a mortar, make it into a paste with +the yolk of a raw egg, form the paste into very small balls, and throw +them into boiling water for a minute or so, to harden them. + + * * * * * + +PREPARATION FOR CUTLETS OF FOWL OR VEAL. + +Make a smooth batter of flour, and a little salad oil, and two eggs, +a little white pepper, salt, and nutmeg, turn the cutlets well in +this mixture, and fry a light brown, garnish with slices of lemon, +and crisped parsley, this is done by putting in the parsley after the +cutlets have been fried, it will speedily crisp; it should then be +drained, to prevent its being greasy. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + + +Fish. + +PRELIMINARY REMARKS. + +When fish is to be boiled, it should be rubbed lightly over with salt, +and set on the fire in a saucepan or fish-kettle sufficiently large, +in hard cold water, with a little salt, a spoonful or two of vinegar +is sometimes added, which has the effect of increasing its firmness. + +Fish for broiling should be rubbed over with vinegar, well dried in +a cloth and floured. The fire must be clear and free from smoke, the +gridiron made quite hot, and the bars buttered before the fish is put +on it. Fish to be fried should be rubbed in with salt, dried, rolled +in a cloth, and placed for a few minutes before the fire previous to +being put in the pan. + + * * * * * + +FISH FRIED IN OIL. + +Soles, plaice, or salmon, are the best kinds of fish to dress in +this manner, although various other sorts are frequently used. When +prepared by salting or drying, as above directed, have a dish ready +with beaten eggs, turn the fish well over in them, and sprinkle it +freely with flour, so that the fish may be covered entirely with it, +then place it in a pan with a good quantity of the best frying oil at +boiling heat; fry the fish in it gently, till of a fine equal brown +colour, when done, it should be placed on a cloth before the fire +for the oil to drain off; great care should be observed that the oil +should have ceased to bubble when the fish is put in, otherwise it +will be greasy; the oil will serve for two or three times if strained +off and poured into a jar. Fish prepared in this way is usually served +cold. + + * * * * * + +FRIED SOLES IN THE ENGLISH WAY. + +Prepare the soles as directed in the last receipt, brush them over +with egg, dredge them with stale bread crumbs, and fry in boiling +butter; this method is preferable when required to be served hot. + + * * * * * + +ESCOBECHE. + +Take some cold fried fish, place it in a deep pan, then boil half a +pint of vinegar with two table spoonsful of water, and one of oil, +a little grated ginger, allspice, cayenne pepper, two bay leaves, a +little salt, and a table spoonful of lemon juice, with sliced onions; +when boiling, pour it over the fish, cover the pan, and let it stand +twenty-four hours before serving. + + * * * * * + +FISH STEWED WHITE. + +Put an onion, finely chopped, into a stew-pan, with a little oil, till +the onion becomes brown, then add half a pint of water, and place +the fish in the stew-pan, seasoning with pepper, salt, mace, ground +allspice, nutmeg, and ginger; let it stew gently till the fish is +done, then prepare the beaten yolks of four eggs, with the juice of +two lemons, and a tea spoonful of flour, a table spoonful of cold +water, and a little saffron, mix well in a cup, and pour it into +the stew-pan, stirring it carefully one way until it thickens. Balls +should be thrown in about twenty minutes before serving; they are made +in the following way: take a little of the fish, the liver, and roe, +if there is any, beat it up finely with chopped parsley, and spread +warmed butter, crumbs of bread, and seasoning according to taste; +form this into a paste with eggs, and make it into balls of a moderate +size; this is a very nice dish when cold; garnish with sliced lemon +and parsley. + + * * * * * + +AN EXCELLENT RECEIPT FOR STEWED FISH IN THE DUTCH FASHION. + +Take three or four parsley roots, cut them into pieces, slice several +onions and boil in a pint of water till tender, season with lemon +juice, vinegar, saffron, pepper, salt, and mace, then add the fish, +and let it stew till nearly finished, when remove it, and thicken the +gravy with a little flour and butter, and the yolk of one egg, then +return the fish to the stew-pan, with balls made as directed in the +preceding receipt, and boil up. + + * * * * * + +FISH STEWED BROWN. + +Fry some fish of a light brown, either soles, slices of salmon, +halibut, or plaice, let an onion brown in a little oil, add to it a +cup of water, a little mushroom ketchup or powder, cayenne pepper, +salt, nutmeg, and lemon juice, put the fish into a stew-pan with the +above mixture, and simmer gently till done, then take out the fish and +thicken the gravy with a little browned flour, and stir in a glass of +port wine; a few truffles, or mushrooms, are an improvement. + + * * * * * + +WATER SOUCHY. + +Take a portion of the fish intended to be dressed, and stew it down +with three pints of water, parsley roots, and chopped parsley, and +then pulp them through a sieve, then add the rest of the fish, with +pepper, salt, and seasoning; and serve in a deep dish. + + * * * * * + +A SUPERIOR RECEIPT FOR STEWED CARP. + +Clean the fish thoroughly, put it into a saucepan, with a strong rich +gravy, season with onion, parsley roots, allspice, nutmegs, beaten +cloves, and ginger, let it stew very gently till nearly done, then +mix port wine and vinegar in equal quantities, coarse brown sugar and +lemon juice, a little flour, with some of the gravy from the saucepan, +mix well and pour over the fish, let it boil till the gravy thickens. +Pike is excellent stewed in this manner. + + * * * * * + +FILLETS OF FISH. + +Fillets of salmon, soles, &c., fried of a delicate brown according to +the receipt already given, and served with a fine gravy is a very nice +dish. + +If required to be very savory, make a fish force-meat, and lay it +thickly on the fish before frying; fillets dressed in this way are +usually arranged round the dish, and served with a sauce made of good +stock, thickened and seasoned with cayenne pepper, lemon juice, and +mushroom essence; piccalilli are sometimes added cut small. + + * * * * * + +BAKED HADDOCK. + +Carefully clean a fresh haddock, and fill it with a fine forcemeat, +and sew it in securely; give the fish a dredging of flour, and pour on +warmed butter, sprinkle it with pepper and salt, and set it to bake +in a Dutch-oven before the fire, basting it, from time to time, with +butter warmed, and capers; it should be of a rich dark brown, and it +is as well to dredge two or three times with flour while at the fire, +the continual bastings will produce sufficient sauce to serve with it +without any other being added. + +Mackarel and whiting prepared in this manner are excellent, the latter +should be covered with a layer of bread crumbs, and arranged in a +ring, and the forcemeat, instead of stuffing them, should be formed +into small balls, and served in the dish as a garnish. + +The forcemeat must be made as for veal stuffing, with the addition of +a couple of minced anchovies, cayenne pepper, and butter instead of +suet. + + * * * * * + +A NICE WAY OF DRESSING RED HERRINGS. + +Open them, cut off the tails and heads, soak them in hot water for an +hour, then wipe them dry; mix with warmed butter one beaten egg, pour +this over the herrings, sprinkle with bread crumbs, flour, and white +pepper, broil them and serve them very hot. + + * * * * * + +BAKED MACKAREL WITH VINEGAR. + +Cut off the heads and tails, open and clean them, lay them in a +deep pan with a few bay leaves, whole pepper, half a tea-spoonful of +cloves, and a whole spoonful of allspice, pour over equal quantities +of vinegar and water, and bake for an hour and a half, in a gentle +oven; herrings and sprats are also dressed according to this receipt. + + * * * * * + +FISH SALAD. + +Cut in small pieces any cold dressed fish, turbot or salmon are the +best suited; mix it with half a pint of small salad, and a lettuce +cut small, two onions boiled till tender and mild, and a few truffles +thinly sliced; pour over a fine salad mixture, and arrange it into a +shape, high in the centre, and garnish with hard eggs cut in slices; +a little cucumber mixed with the salad is an improvement. The mixture +may either be a common salad mixture, or made as follows: take the +yolks of three hard boiled eggs, with a spoonful of mustard, and a +little salt, mix these with a cup of cream, and four table-spoonsful +of vinegar, the different ingredients should be added carefully and +worked together smoothly, the whites of the eggs may be trimmed and +placed in small heaps round the dish as a garnish. + + * * * * * + +IMPANADA. + +Cut in small pieces halibut, plaice, or soles, place them in a deep +dish in alternate layers, with slices of potatoes and dumplings made +of short-crust paste, sweetened with brown sugar, season well with +small pickles, peppers, gerkins, or West India pickles; throw over a +little water and butter warmed, and bake it thoroughly. + + * * * * * + +WHITE BAIT. + +This is such a delicate fish that there are few cooks who attempt to +dress it without spoiling it; they should not be touched but thrown +from the dish into a cloth with a handful of flour; shake them +lightly, but enough to cover them well with the flour, then turn them +into a sieve expressly for bait to free them from too great a quantity +of the flour, then throw the fish into a pan with plenty of boiling +butter, they must remain but an instant, for they are considered +spoilt if they become the least brown; they should be placed lightly +on the dish piled up high in the centre, brown bread and butter is +always served with them; when devilled they are also excellent, and +are permitted to become brown; they are then sprinkled with cayenne +pepper, and a little salt, and served with lemon juice. + +This receipt was given by a cook who dressed white bait to perfection. + + * * * * * + +A DUTCH FRICANDELLE. + +Take two pounds of dressed fish, remove the skin and bones, cut in +small pieces with two or three anchovies, and season well, soak the +crumb of a French roll in milk, beat it up with the fish and three +eggs: butter a mould, sprinkle it with raspings, place in the fish +and bake it; when done, turn out and serve either dry or with +anchovy sauce; if served dry, finely grated crumbs of bread should be +sprinkled thickly over it, and it should be placed for a few minutes +before the fire to brown. + + * * * * * + +FISH FRITTERS. + +Make a force-meat of any cold fish, form it into thin cakes, and fry +of a light brown, or enclose them first in thin paste and then fry +them. The roes of fish or the livers are particularly nice prepared in +this way. + + * * * * * + +FISH OMELET. + +Shred finely any cold fish, season it, and mix with beaten eggs; make +it into a paste, fry in thin cakes like pancakes, and serve hot on a +napkin; there should be plenty of boiling butter in the pan, as they +should be moist and rich; there should be more eggs in the preparation +for omelets than for fritters. + + * * * * * + +SCALLOPED FISH. + +Take any dressed fish, break it in small pieces, put it into tin +scallops, with a few crumbs of bread, a good piece of butter, a little +cream if approved, white pepper, salt, and nutmeg; bake in an oven for +ten minutes, or brown before the fire; two or three mushrooms mixed, +or an anchovy will be found an improvement. + + * * * * * + +ANOTHER WAY. + +Break the fish into pieces, pour over the beaten yolk of an egg, +sprinkle with pepper and salt, strew with bread crumbs, chopped +parsley, and grated lemon peel, and squeeze in the juice of lemon, +drop over a little warmed butter, and brown before the fire. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + + +Directions for Various Ways of Dressing Meat and Poultry. + +INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. + +Boiling is the most simple manner of cooking, the great art in +this process is to boil the article sufficiently, without its being +overdone, the necessity of slow boiling cannot be too strongly +impressed upon the cook, as the contrary, renders it hard and of a bad +color; the average time of boiling for fresh meat is half an hour to +every pound, salt meat requires half as long again, and smoked meat +still longer; the lid of the saucepan should only be removed for +skimming, which is an essential process. + +Roasting chiefly depends on the skilful management of the fire, it is +considered that a joint of eight pounds requires two hours roasting; +when first put down it should be basted with fresh dripping, and +afterwards with its own dripping, it should be sprinkled with salt, +and repeatedly dredged with flour, which browns and makes it look rich +and frothy. + +Broiling requires a steady clear fire, free from flame and smoke, the +gridiron should be quite hot before the article is placed on it, and +the bars should be rubbed with fat, or if the article is thin-skinned +and delicate, with chalk; the gridiron should be held aslant to +prevent the fat dripping into the fire; the bars of a gridiron should +be close and fine. Frying is easier than broiling, the fat, oil or +butter in which the article is fried must be boiling, but have ceased +to bubble before it is put in the pan, or it will be greasy and black: +there is now a new description of fryingpan, called a sauté pan, and +which will be found extremely convenient for frying small cutlets or +collops. + +Stewing is a more elaborate mode of boiling; a gentle heat with +frequent skimmings, are the points to be observed. + +Glazing is done by brushing melted jelly over the article to be glazed +and letting it cool, and then adding another coat, or in some cases +two or three, this makes any cold meats or poultry have an elegant +appearance. + +Blanching makes the article plump and white. It should be set on the +fire in cold water, boil up and then be immersed in cold water, +where it should remain some little time. Larding (the French term is +_Piqué_, which the inexperienced Jewish cook may not be acquainted +with, we therefore use the term in common use) is a term given to +a certain mode of garnishing the surface of meat or poultry: it +is inserting small pieces of the fat of smoked meats, truffles, or +tongue, which are trimmed into slips of equal length and size, into +the flesh of the article at regular distances, and is effected by +means of larding pins. + +Poelée and Blanc, are terms used in modern cookery for a very +expensive mode of stewing: it is done by stewing the article with +meat, vegetables, and fat of smoked meats, all well seasoned; instead +of placing it to stew in water it is placed on slices of meat covered +with slices of fat and the vegetables and seasoning added, then water +enough to cover the whole is added. + +Blanc differs from Poelée, in having a quantity of suet added, and +being boiled down before the article is placed to stew in it. + +Braising is a similar process to Poelée, but less meat and vegetable +is used. + + * * * * * + +TO CLARIFY SUET. + +Melt down with care fine fresh suet, either beef or veal, put it into +a jar, and set it in a stew-pan of water to boil, putting in a sprig +of rosemary, or a little orange flower water while melting, this is +a very useful preparation and will be found, if adopted in English +kitchens, to answer the purpose of lard and is far more delicate and +wholesome: it should be well beaten till quite light with a wooden +fork. + + * * * * * + +OLIO. + +Put eight pounds of beef in sufficient water to cover it, when the +water boils take out the meat, skim off the fat, and then return the +meat to the stew-pan, adding at the same time two fine white cabbages +without any of the stalk or hard parts; season with pepper, salt, and +a tea-spoonful of white sugar, let it simmer on a slow fire for +about five hours, about an hour before serving, add half a pound of +_chorisa_, which greatly improves the flavor. + + * * * * * + +AN EXCELLENT RECEIPT FOR STEWING A RUMP OF BEEF. + +Chop fine a large onion, four bay leaves, and a little parsley, add to +these half an ounce of ground ginger, a tea-spoonful of salt, a blade +of mace, a little ground allspice, some lemon sliced, and some of the +peel grated; rub all these ingredients well into the meat, then place +it into a stew-pan with three parts of a cup of vinegar, a calf's-foot +cut in small pieces and a pint of water, stew gently till tender, +when the fat must be carefully skimmed off the gravy, which must be +strained and poured over the meat. + + * * * * * + +ALAMODE BEEF, OR SOUR MEAT. + +Cover a piece of the ribs of beef boned and filletted, or a piece of +the round with vinegar diluted with water, season with onions, pepper, +salt, whole allspice, and three or four bay leaves, add a cup full +of raspings, and let the whole stew gently for three or four hours, +according to the weight of the meat; this dish is excellent when cold. +A rump steak stewed in the same way will be found exceedingly fine. + + * * * * * + +KIMMEL MEAT. + +Place a small piece of the rump of beef, or the under cut of a sirloin +in a deep pan with three pints of vinegar, two ounces of carraway +seeds tied in a muslin bag, salt, pepper, and spices, cover it down +tight, and bake thoroughly in a slow oven. This is a fine relish for +luncheons. + + * * * * * + +BEEF AND BEANS. + +Take a piece of brisket of beef, cover it with water, when boiling +skim off the fat, add one quarter of French beans cut small, two +onions cut in quarters, season with pepper and salt, and when nearly +done take a dessert-spoonful of flour, one of coarse brown sugar, and +a large tea-cup full of vinegar, mix them together and stir in with +the beans, and continue stewing for about half an hour longer. + + * * * * * + +KUGEL AND COMMEAN. + +Soak one pint of Spanish peas and one pint of Spanish beans all night +in three pints of water; take two marrow bones, a calf's-foot, and +three pounds of fine gravy-beef, crack the bones and tie them to +prevent the marrow escaping, and put all together into a pan; then +take one pound of flour, half a pound of shred suet, a little grated +nutmeg and ground ginger, cloves and allspice, one pound of coarse +brown sugar, and the crumb of a slice of bread, first soaked in water +and pressed dry, mix all these ingredients together into a paste, +grease a quart basin and put it in, covering the basin with a plate +set in the middle of the pan with the beans, meat, &c. Cover the pan +lightly down with coarse brown paper, and let it remain all the night +and the next day, (until required) in a baker's oven, when done, take +out the basin containing the pudding, and skim the fat from the gravy +which must be served as soup; the meat, &c., is extremely savory and +nutritious, but is not a very seemly dish for table. The pudding must +be turned out of the basin, and a sweet sauce flavored with lemon and +brandy is a fine addition. + + * * * * * + +SAUER KRAUT. + +Boil about seven or eight pounds of beef, either brisket or a fillet +off the shoulder, in enough water to cover it, when it has boiled for +one hour, add as much sauer kraut, which is a German preparation, +as may be approved, it should then stew gently for four hours and be +served in a deep dish. The Germans are not very particular in removing +the fat, but it is more delicate by so doing. + + * * * * * + +BEEF WITH CELERY, AND WHITE BEANS AND PEAS. + +Soak for twelve hours one pint of dried white peas, and half a pint of +the same kind of beans, they must be well soaked, and if very dry, may +require longer than twelve hours, put a nice piece of brisket of about +eight pounds weight in a stew-pan with the peas and beans, and three +heads of celery cut in small pieces, put water enough to cover, and +season with pepper and salt only, let it all stew slowly till the meat +is extremely tender and the peas and beans quite soft, then add four +large lumps of sugar and nearly a tea-cup of vinegar; this is a very +fine stew. + + * * * * * + +BEEF COLLOPS. + +Cut thin slices off from any tender part, divide them into pieces of +the size of a wine biscuit, flatten and flour them, and lightly fry +in clarified fat, lay them in a stew-pan with good stock, season to +taste, have pickled gherkins chopped small, and add to the gravy a few +minutes before serving. + + * * * * * + +TO WARM COLD ROAST BEEF WHEN NOT SUFFICIENTLY DONE. + +Cut it in slices, also slice some beetroot or cucumber and put them +in a saucepan with a little gravy which need not be strong, two +table-spoonsful of vinegar, one of oil, pepper, salt, a little chopped +lettuce and a few peas, simmer till the vegetables and meat are +sufficiently dressed. + + * * * * * + +TO HASH BEEF. + +The meat should be put on the fire in a little broth or gravy, with +a little fried onion, pepper, salt, and a spoonful of ketchup, or any +other sauce at hand, let it simmer for about ten minutes, then mix in +a cup a little flour with a little of the gravy, and pour it into the +stewpan to thicken the rest; sippets of toast should be served with +hashes, a little port wine, a pinch of saffron, or a piece _chorisa_ +may be considered great improvements. + + * * * * * + +STEAKS WITH CHESNUTS. + +Take a fine thick steak, half fry it, then flour and place it in a +stewpan with a little good beef gravy, season with cayenne pepper and +salt, when it has simmered for about ten minutes, add a quarter of a +hundred good chesnuts, peeled and the inner skin scraped off, let them +stew with the steak till well done, this is a very nice dish, a little +Espagnole sauce heightens the flavor. + + * * * * * + +A SIMPLE STEWED STEAK. + +Put a fine steak in a stewpan with a large piece of clarified suet +or fat, and a couple of onions sliced, let the steak fry for a few +minutes, turning it several times; then cover the steak with gravy, +or even water will answer the purpose, with a tea-cup full of button +onions, or a Spanish onion sliced, a little lemon peel, pepper, salt, +and a little allspice; simmer till the steak is done, when the steak +must be removed and the gravy be carefully skimmed, then add to it a +little browning and a spoonful of mushroom ketchup; the steak must +be kept on a hot stove or returned to the stewpan to warm up. If the +gravy is not thick enough, stir in a little flour. + + * * * * * + +BRISKET STEWED WITH ONIONS AND RAISINS. + +Stew about five pounds of brisket of beef in sufficient water to +cover, season with allspice, pepper, salt, and nutmeg, and when nearly +done, add four large onions cut in pieces and half a pound of raisins +stoned, let them remain simmering till well done; and just before +serving, stir in a tea-spoonful of brown sugar and a table spoonful of +flour. + + * * * * * + +BRISKET STEWED. + +Take about six or seven pounds of brisket of beef, place it in a +stewpan with only enough water to cover it, season with a little spice +tied in a bag; when the meat is tender and the spices sufficiently +extracted to make the gravy rich and strong, part of it must be +removed to another saucepan; have ready a variety of vegetables cut +into small shapes, such as turnips, carrots, mushrooms, cauliflowers, +or whatever may be in season; stew them gently till tender in the +gravy, the meat must then be glazed and the gravy poured in the dish, +and the vegetables arranged round. + + * * * * * + +BEEF RAGOUT. + +Take a small well cut piece of lean beef, lard it with the fat +of smoked beef, and stew it with good gravy, highly seasoned with +allspice, cloves, pepper and salt; when the meat is well done remove +it from the gravy, which skim carefully and free from every particle +of fat, and add to it a glass of port wine, the juice of a lemon, half +a tea-spoonful of cayenne pepper, and a little mushroom ketchup; the +beef should be glazed when required to have an elegant appearance. + +A few very small forcemeat balls must be poached in the gravy, which +must be poured over the meat, and the balls arranged round the dish; +this is a very savoury and pretty dish. + + * * * * * + +TO SALT BEEF. + +This may be done by mixing a pound of common salt, half an ounce of +saltpetre and one ounce of coarse brown sugar, and rubbing the meat +well with it, daily for a fortnight or less, according to the weather, +and the degree of salt that the meat is required to have. Or by +boiling eight ounces of salt, eight ounces of sugar, and half an ounce +of saltpetre in two quarts of water, and pouring it over the meat, and +letting it stand in it for eight or ten days. + + * * * * * + +SPICED BEEF. + +Take a fine thick piece of brisket of beef not fat, let it lay three +days in a pickle, as above, take it out and rub in a mixture of spices +consisting of equal quantities of ground all-spice, black pepper, +cloves, ginger and nutmegs, and a little brown sugar, repeat this +daily for a week, then cover it with pounded dried sweet herbs, roll +or tie it tightly, put it into a pan with very little water, and bake +slowly for eight hours, then take it out, untie it and put a heavy +weight upon it; this it a fine relish when eaten cold. + + * * * * * + +SMOKED BEEF. + +As there are seldom conveniences in private kitchens for smoking +meats, it will generally be the best and cheapest plan to have them +ready prepared for cooking. All kinds of meats smoked and salted, +are to be met with in great perfection at all the Hebrew butchers. + +_Chorisa_, that most refined and savoury of all sausages, is to be +also procured at the same places. It is not only excellent fried in +slices with poached eggs or stewed with rice, but imparts a delicious +flavor to stews, soups, and sauces, and is one of the most useful +resources of the Jewish kitchen. + + * * * * * + +A WHITE FRICANDEAU OF VEAL. + +Take four or five pounds of breast of veal, or fillet from the +shoulder; stuff it with a finely flavoured veal stuffing and put it +into a stewpan with water sufficient to cover it, a calf's-foot cut +in pieces is sometimes added, season with one onion, a blade of mace, +white pepper and salt, and a sprig of parsley, stew the whole gently +until the meat is quite tender, then skim and strain the gravy and +stir in the beaten yolks of four eggs, and the juice of two lemons +previously mixed smoothly with a portion of the gravy, button +mushrooms, or pieces of celery stewed with the veal are sometimes +added by way of varying the flavor, egg and forcemeat balls garnish +the dish. When required to look elegant it should be piqué. + + * * * * * + +A BROWN FRICASSEE. + +Cut a breast of veal in pieces, fry them lightly and put them into a +stewpan with a good beef gravy, seasoned with white pepper, salt, a +couple of sliced onions (previously browned in a little oil), and a +piece of whole ginger, let it simmer very slowly for two hours taking +care to remove the scum or fat, have ready some rich forcemeat and +spread it about an inch thick over three cold hard boiled eggs, fry +these for a few moments and put them in the saucepan with the veal; +before serving, these balls should be cut in quarters, and the gravy +rendered more savory by the addition of lemon juice and half a glass +of white wine, or a table-spoonful of walnut liquor, if the gravy is +not sufficiently thick by long stewing, a little browned flour may be +stirred in. + + * * * * * + +CALF'S HEAD STEWED. + +Clean and soak the head till the cheek-bone can be easily removed, +then parboil it and cut it into pieces of moderate size, and place +them in about a quart of stock made from shin of beef, the gravy must +be seasoned highly with eschalots, a small head of celery, a small +bunch of sweet herbs, an onion, a carrot, a little mace, a dozen +cloves, a piece of lemon peel, and a sprig of parsley, salt and +pepper; it must be strained before the head is added, fine forcemeat +balls rolled in egg and fried are served in the dish, as well as small +fritters made with the brains; when ready for serving, a glass and +half of white wine and the juice of a lemon are added to the gravy. + + * * * * * + +CALVES-FEET WITH SPANISH SAUCE. + +Having cleaned, boiled and split two fine feet, dip them into egg +and bread crumbs mixed with chopped parsley and chalot, a few ground +cloves, a little nutmeg, pepper and salt, fry them a fine brown, +arrange them in the dish and pour the sauce over. Make the sauce in +the following manner: slice two fine Spanish onions, put them in a +saucepan, with some chopped truffles or mushrooms, a little suet, +cayenne and white pepper, salt, one or two small lumps of white sugar, +and let all simmer in some good strong stock till the gravy has nearly +boiled away, then stir in a wine glass of Madeira wine, and a little +lemon juice; it should then be returned to the saucepan, to be made +thoroughly hot before serving. + + * * * * * + +CALF'S FEET AU FRITUR. + +Simmer them for four hours in water till the meat can be taken easily +from the bone, then cut them in handsome pieces, season with pepper +and salt, dip them in egg, and sprinkle thickly with grated bread +crumbs, and fry of a fine even brown; they may be served dry or with +any sauce that may be approved. + +The liquor should continue to stew with the bones, and can be used for +jelly. + + * * * * * + +CALF'S FEET STEWED FOR INVALIDS. + +Clean and soak a fine foot, put it on in very little water, let it +simmer till tender, then cut it in pieces, without removing the bone, +and continue stewing for three hours, till they become perfectly soft; +if the liquor boils away, add a little more water, but there should +not be more liquor than can be served in the dish with the foot; the +only seasoning requisite is a little salt and white pepper, and a +sprig of parsley, or a pinch of saffron to improve the appearance; a +little delicately-made thin egg sauce, with a flavor of lemon juice, +may be served in a sauce-tureen if approved; sippets of toast or well +boiled rice to garnish the dish, may also be added, and will not be an +unacceptable addition. + + * * * * * + +TENDONS OF VEAL. + +This is a very fine and nutritious dish; cut from the bones of a +breast of veal the tendons which are round the front, trim and blanch +them, put them with slices of smoked beef into a stewpan with some +shavings of veal, a few herbs, a little sliced lemon, two or three +onions, and a little broth; they must simmer for seven or eight hours; +when done, thicken the gravy and add white wine and mushrooms and +egg-balls; a few peas with the tendons will be found excellent, a +piece of mint and a little white sugar will then be requisite. + + * * * * * + +FRICANDEAU OF VEAL. + +Take a piece from the shoulder, about three to four pounds, trim it +and form it into a well shaped even piece, the surface of which should +be quite smooth; _piqué_ it thickly, put it into a stewpan with a +couple of onions, a carrot sliced, sweet herbs, two or three bay +leaves, a large piece of _chorissa_ or a slice of the root of a tongue +smoked, a little whole pepper and salt; cover it with a gravy made +from the trimmings of the veal, and stew till extremely tender, which +can be proved by probing it with a fine skewer, then reduce part of +the gravy to a glaze, glaze the meat with it and serve on a _pureé_ of +vegetables. + + * * * * * + +COLLARED VEAL. + +Remove the bones, gristle, &c., from a nice piece of veal, the breast +is the best part for the purpose; season the meat well with chopped +herbs, mace, pepper, and salt, then lay between the veal slices of +smoked tongue variegated with beetroot, chopped parsley, and hard +yolks of eggs, roll it up tightly in a cloth, simmer for some hours +till tender; when done, it should have a weight laid on it to press +out the liquor. + + * * * * * + +CURRIED VEAL. + +Cut a breast of veal into pieces, fry lightly with a chopped onion, +then rub the veal over with currie powder, put it into a good gravy of +veal and beef, season simply with pepper, salt, and lemon juice. + +Fowls curried are prepared in the same way. + + * * * * * + +CUTLETS. + +Cut them into proper shape and beat them with a roller until the fibre +of the meat is entirely broken; if this is not done, they will be +hard; they must then be covered with egg and sprinkled with flour, or +a preparation for cutlets may be spread over them, and then fry them +of a fine brown, remove the cutlets to a hot dish, and add to the fat +in which the cutlets have been fried, a spoonful of flour, a small cup +of gravy, salt, pepper, and a little lemon juice or lemon pickle. + + * * * * * + +CUTLETS A LA FRANÇAISE. + +French cooks cut them thinner than the English, and trim them into +rounds of the size of a tea-cup; they must be brushed over with egg, +and sprinkled with salt, white pepper, mushroom powder, and grated +lemon peel; put them into a _sauté_ pan and fry of a very light brown; +pieces of bread, smoked meat or tongue cut of the same size as the +cutlets, and prepared in the same manner, are laid alternately in the +dish with them; they should be served without sauce and with a _purée_ +of mushrooms or spinach in the centre of the dish. + + * * * * * + +CUTLETS IN WHITE FRICASSEE. + +Cut them in proper shapes, put them in a veal gravy made with the +trimmings enough to cover them; season delicately, and let them simmer +till quite tender, but not long enough to lose their shape; fresh +button mushrooms and a piece of lemon peel are essential to this dish; +when the meat is done remove it, take all fat from the gravy, and +thicken it with the yolks of two beaten eggs; small balls of forcemeat +in which mushrooms must be minced should be poached in the gravy when +about to be served; the meat must be returned to the saucepan to be +made hot, and when placed in the dish, garnish with thin slices of +lemon. + + * * * * * + +CUTLETS IN BROWN FRICASSEE. + +They must be trimmed as above, fried slightly and stewed in beef +gravy, and seasoned according to the directions given for a brown +fricassee of veal; balls or fritters are always an improvement to the +appearance of this dish. + + * * * * * + +BLANQUETTE OF VEAL. + +Cut into thin pieces of the size of shillings and half crowns, cold +veal or poultry, lay it in a small saucepan with a handful of fresh +well cleaned button mushrooms, pour over a little veal gravy, only +enough to cover them, with a piece of clarified veal fat about the +size of the yolk of a hard boiled egg; flavor with a piece of lemon +peel, very little white pepper and salt, one small lump of white +sugar, and a little nutmeg, stew all together for fifteen minutes, +then pour over a sauce prepared in a separate saucepan, made with veal +gravy, a little lemon juice, but not much, and the beaten yolks of two +eggs, let it simmer for an instant and then serve it up in the centre +of a dish prepared with a wall of mashed potatoes, delicately browned; +a few truffles renders this dish more elegant. + + * * * * * + +MINCED VEAL. + +Cut in small square pieces about the size of dice, cold dressed veal, +put it into a saucepan with a little water or gravy, season simply +with salt, pepper, and grated or minced lemon peel, the mince should +be garnished with sippets of toast. + + * * * * * + +MIROTON OF VEAL. + +Mince finely some cold veal or poultry, add a little grated tongue, +or smoked beef, a few crumbs of bread, sweet herbs, pepper, salt, +parsley, and if approved, essence of lemon, mix all well with two or +three eggs, and a very small quantity of good gravy; grease a mould, +put in the above ingredients and bake for three-quarters of an hour; +turn out with care, and serve with mushroom sauce. + + * * * * * + +FRICONDELLES. + +Prepare cold veal or poultry as in the last receipt, add instead of +crumbs of bread, a French roll soaked in white gravy, mix with it +the same ingredients, and form it into two shapes to imitate small +chickens or sweetbreads; sprinkle with crumbs of bread, and place in a +frying-pan as deep as a shallow saucepan; when they have fried +enough to become set, pour enough weak gravy in the pan to cover the +fricondelles, and let them stew in it gently, place them both in +the same dish, and pour over any well thickened sauce that may be +selected. + + * * * * * + +ANOTHER SORT. + +Prepare four small pieces of veal to serve in one dish, according to +the directions given for fricandeau of veal; these form a very pretty +_entrée_; the pieces of veal should be about the size of pigeons. + + * * * * * + +SMOKED VEAL. + +Take a fine fat thick breast of veal, bone it, lay it in pickle, +according to the receipt to salt meat, hang it for three or four weeks +in wood-smoke, and it will prove a very fine savoury relish, either +boiled and eaten cold, or fried as required. + + * * * * * + +SWEETBREADS ROASTED. + +First soak them in warm water, and then blanch them; in whatever +manner they are to be dressed, this is essential; they may be prepared +in a variety of ways, the simplest is to roast them; for this they +have only to be covered with egg and bread crumbs, seasoned with salt +and pepper, and finished in a Dutch oven or cradle spit, frequently +basting with clarified veal suet; they may be served either dry with a +_purée_ of vegetables, or with a brown gravy. + + * * * * * + +SWEETBREADS STEWED WHITE. + +After soaking and blanching, stew them in veal gravy, and season with +celery, pepper, salt, nutmeg, a little mace, and a piece of lemon +peel, they should be served with a fine white sauce, the gravy in +which they are stewed will form the basis for it, with the addition +of yolks of eggs and mushroom essence; French cooks would adopt the +_velouté_ or _bechamél_ sauce; Jerusalem artichokes cut the size of +button mushrooms, are a suitable accompaniment as a garnish. + + * * * * * + +SWEETBREADS STEWED BROWN. + +After soaking and blanching, fry them till brown, then simmer gently +in beef gravy seasoned highly with smoked meat, nutmeg, pepper, salt, +a small onion stuck with cloves, and a very little whole allspice; +the gravy must be slightly thickened, and morels and truffles are +generally added; small balls of delicate forcemeat are also +an improvement. The above receipts are adapted for sweetbreads +fricasseed, except that they must be cut in pieces for fricassees, and +pieces of meat or poultry are added to them; sweetbreads when dressed +whole look better _piqués_. + + * * * * * + +A DELICATE RECEIPT FOR ROAST MUTTON. + +Put the joint in a saucepan, cover it with cold water, let it boil for +half an hour, have the spit and fire quite ready, and remove the meat +from the saucepan, and place it immediately down to roast, baste it +well, dredge it repeatedly with flour, and sprinkle with salt; +this mode of roasting mutton removes the strong flavor that is so +disagreeable to some tastes. + + * * * * * + +MUTTON STEWED WITH CELERY. + +Take the best end of a neck of mutton, or a fillet taken from the leg +or shoulder, place it in a stewpan with just enough water to cover +it, throw in a carrot and turnip, and season, but not too highly; when +nearly done remove the meat and strain off the gravy, then return both +to the stewpan with forcemeat balls and some fine celery cut in small +pieces; let all stew gently till perfectly done, then stir in the +yolks of two eggs, a little flour, and the juice of half a lemon, +which must be mixed with a little of the gravy before pouring in the +stewpan, and care must be taken to prevent curdling. + + * * * * * + +A SIMPLE WAY OF DRESSING MUTTON. + +Take the fillet off a small leg or shoulder of mutton, rub it well +over with egg and seasoning, and partly roast it, then place it in a +stewpan with a little strong gravy, and stew gently till thoroughly +done; this dish is simple, but exceedingly nice; a few balls or +fritters to garnish will improve it. + + * * * * * + +MAINTENON CUTLETS. + +This is merely broiling or frying cutlets in a greased paper, after +having spread on them a seasoning prepared as follows: make a paste +of bread crumbs, chopped parsley, nutmeg, pepper, salt, grated lemon +peel, and thyme, with a couple of beaten eggs; a piquante sauce should +be served in a tureen. + + * * * * * + +A HARRICOT. + +Cut off the best end of a neck of mutton into chops, flour and partly +fry them, then lay them in a stewpan with carrots, sliced turnips cut +in small round balls, some button onions, and cover with water; skim +frequently, season with pepper and salt to taste, color the gravy with +a little browning and a spoonful of mushroom powder. + + * * * * * + +IRISH STEW. + +Is the same as above, excepting that the meat is not previously fried, +and that potatoes are used instead of turnips and carrots. + + * * * * * + +MUTTON A L'HISPANIOLA. + +Take a small piece of mutton, either part of a shoulder or a fillet +of the leg, partly roast it, then put it in a stewpan with beef gravy +enough to cover it, previously seasoned with herbs, a carrot and +turnip; cut in quarters three large Spanish onions, and place in the +stewpan round the meat; a stuffing will improve it, and care must be +taken to free the gravy from every particle of fat. + + * * * * * + +MUTTON COLLOPS. + +Take from a fine knuckle a couple of slices, cut and trim them in +collops the size of a tea cup, flatten them and spread over each side +a forcemeat for cutlets, and fry them; potatoe or Jerusalem artichokes +cut in slices of the same size and thickness, or pieces of bread +cut with a fluted cutter, prepared as the collops and fried, must be +placed alternately in the dish with them; they may be served with a +pure simple gravy, or very hot and dry on a napkin, garnished with +fried parsley and slices of lemon. + +The knuckle may be used in the following manner: put it on with +sufficient water to cover it, season it and simmer till thoroughly +done, thicken the gravy with prepared barley, and flavor it with lemon +pickle, or capers; it should be slightly colored with saffron, and +celery sauce may be served as an accompaniment, or the mutton may be +served on a fine _purée_ of turnips. + + * * * * * + +MUTTON CUTLETS. + +Have a neck of mutton, cut the bones short, and remove the chine +bone completely; cut chops off so thin that every other one shall be +without bone, trim them carefully, that all the chops shall bear the +same appearance, then flatten them well; cover them with a cutlet +preparation, and fry of a delicate brown; a fine _purée_ of any +vegetable that may be approved, or any sauce that may be selected, +should be served with them; they may be arranged in various ways in +the dish, either round the dish or in a circle in the centre, so that +the small part of the cutlets shall almost meet; if the latter, the +_purée_ should garnish round them instead of being in the centre of +the dish. + + * * * * * + +MUTTON HAM. + +Choose a fine leg of mutton, rub it in daily with a mixture of three +ounces of brown sugar, two ounces of common salt, and half an ounce of +saltpetre, continue this process for a fortnight, then hang it to dry +in wood smoke for ten days longer. + + * * * * * + +LAMB AND SPREW. + +Take a fine neck or breast of lamb, put it in stewpan with as much +water as will cover it, add to it a bundle of sprew cut in pieces of +two inches in length, a small head of celery cut small, and one onion, +pepper, salt, and a sprig of parsley, let it simmer gently till the +meat and sprew are tender; a couple of lumps of sugar improves the +flavor; there should not be too much liquor, and all fat must be +removed; the sprew should surround the meat when served, and also be +thickly laid over it. + + * * * * * + +LAMB AND PEAS. + +Take the best end of a neck of lamb, either keep it whole or divide it +into chops as may be preferred, put it into a saucepan with a little +chopped onion, pepper, salt, and a small quantity of water; when half +done add half a peck of peas, half a lettuce cut fine, a little mint, +and a few lumps of sugar, and let it stew thoroughly; when done, +there must not be too much liquor; cutlets of veal or beef are also +excellent dressed as above. Although this is a spring dish it may be +almost equally well dressed in winter, by substituting small mutton +cutlets and preserved peas, which may be met with at any of the best +Italian warehouses; a breast or neck of lamb may also be stewed whole +in the same manner. + + * * * * * + +LAMB CUTLETS WITH CUCUMBERS. + +Take two fine cucumbers, peel and cut them lengthways, lay them in +vinegar for an hour, then stew them in good stock till tender, when +stir in the yolks of two or three eggs, a little flour and essence of +lemon, which must all be first mixed up together with a little of +the stock, have ready some cutlets trimmed and fried a light brown, +arrange them round the dish and pour the cucumbers in the centre. + + * * * * * + +A NICE RECEIPT FOR SHOULDER OF LAMB. + +Half boil it, score it and squeeze over lemon juice, and cover with +grated bread crumbs, egg and parsley, broil it over a clear fire +and put it to brown in a Dutch oven, or grill and serve with a sauce +seasoned with lemon pickle and chopped mint. + + * * * * * + +A CASSEREET, AN EAST INDIA DISH. + +Take two pounds of lamb chops, or mutton may be substituted, place +them in a stewpan, cover with water or gravy, season only with pepper +and salt, when the chops are half done, carefully skim off the fat +and add two table spoonsful of cassereet, stir it in the gravy which +should not be thickened, and finish stewing gently till done enough; +rice should accompany this dish. + + * * * * * + +TURKEY BONED AND FORCED. + +A turkey thus prepared may be either boiled or roasted; there are +directions for boning poultry which might be given, but it is always +better to let the poulterer do it; when boned it must be filled with a +fine forcemeat, which may be varied in several ways, the basis should +be according to the receipt given for veal stuffings, forcemeats, +sausage meat, tongue, and mushrooms added as approved. When boiled it +is served with any fine white sauce, French cooks use the velouté or +béchamel. When roasted, a cradle spit is very convenient, but if there +is not one the turkey must be carefully tied to the spit. + + * * * * * + +FOWLS BONED AND FORCED. + +The above directions serve also for fowls. + + * * * * * + +A SAVOURY WAY OF ROASTING A FOWL. + +Fill it with a fine seasoning, and just before it is ready for +serving, baste it well with clarified veal suet, and sprinkle it +thickly with very dry crumbs of bread, repeat this two or three times; +then place it in the dish, and serve with a fine brown gravy well +flavored with lemon juice; delicate forcemeat fritters should be also +served in the dish. + + * * * * * + +BOILED FOWLS. + +Are served with a fine white sauce, and are often garnished with +pieces of white cauliflower, or vegetable marrow, the chief object +is to keep them white; it is best to select white legged poultry for +boiling, as they prove whiter when dressed. + + * * * * * + +AMNASTICH. + +Stew gently one pint of rice in one quart of strong gravy till it +begins to swell, then add an onion stuck with cloves, a bunch of sweet +herbs, and a chicken stuffed with forcemeat, let it stew with the rice +till thoroughly done, then take it up and stir in the rice, the yolks +of four eggs, and the juice of a lemon; serve the fowl in the same +dish with the rice, which should be colored to a fine yellow with +saffron. + + * * * * * + +FOWLS STEWED WITH RICE AND CHORISA. + +Boil a fowl in sufficient water or gravy to cover it, when boiling for +ten minutes, skim off the fat and add half a pound of rice, and one +pound of _chorisa_ cut in about four pieces, season with a little +white pepper, salt, and a pinch of saffron to color it, and then stew +till the rice is thoroughly tender; there should be no gravy when +served, but the rice ought to be perfectly moist. + + * * * * * + +CURRIED CHICKEN. + +See curried veal. Undressed chicken is considered best for a curry, +it must be cut in small joints, the directions for curried veal are +equally adapted for fowls. + + * * * * * + +A NICE METHOD OF DRESSING FOWL AND SWEETBREAD. + +Take a fowl and blanch it, also a fine sweet bread, parboil them, then +cut off in smooth well shaped slices, all the white part of the fowl, +and slice the sweetbread in similar pieces, place them together in a +fine well-flavoured veal gravy; when done, serve neatly in the dish, +and pour over a fine white sauce, any that may be approved, the +remainder of the fowl must be cut up in small joints or pieces, not +separated from the bone, and fried to become brown, then place them in +a stew-pan with forcemeat balls, truffles, and morels; pour over half +or three quarters of a pint of beef gravy, and simmer till finished; a +little mushroom ketchup, or lemon-pickle may be added; in this manner +two very nice _entrées_ may be formed. + + * * * * * + +BLANKETTE OF FOWL. + +See blankette of veal. + + * * * * * + +TO STEW DUCK WITH GREEN PEAS. + +Stuff and half roast a duck, then put it into a stew-pan with an onion +sliced, a little mint and about one pint of beef gravy, add after it +has simmered half an hour, a quart of green peas, and simmer another +half hour; a little lump sugar is requisite. + + * * * * * + +TO WARM COLD POULTRY. + +Cut up the pieces required to be dressed, spread over them a seasoning +as for cutlets, and fry them; pour over a little good gravy, and +garnish with sippets of toast and sliced lemon, or place them in an +edging of rice or mashed potatoes. + + * * * * * + +BROILED FOWL AND MUSHROOMS. + +Truss a fine fowl as if for boiling, split it down the back, and broil +gently; when nearly done, put it in a stewpan with a good gravy, add +a pint of fresh button mushrooms, season to taste; a little mushroom +powder and lemon juice improve the flavour. + + * * * * * + +PIGEONS. + +To have a good appearance they should be larded and stuffed; glazing +is also an improvement, they form a nice _entrée_; they may be stewed +in a strong gravy; when done enough, remove the pigeons, thicken the +gravy, add a few forcemeat and egg balls, and serve in the dish with +the pigeons. Or they may be split down the back, broiled, and then +finished in the stew-pan. + + * * * * * + +STEWED GIBLETS. + +Scald one or more sets of giblets, set them on the fire with a little +veal or chicken, or both, in a good gravy; season to taste, thicken +the gravy, and color it with browning, flavor with mushroom powder +and lemon-juice and one glass of white wine; forcemeat balls should +be added a few minutes before serving, and garnish with thin slices of +hard boiled eggs. + + * * * * * + +DUTCH TOAST. + +Take the remains of any cold poultry or meat, mince it and season +highly; add to it any cold dressed vegetable, mix it up with one or +more eggs, and let it simmer till hot in a little gravy; have ready +a square of toast, and serve it on it; squeeze over a little +lemon-juice, and sprinkle with white pepper. Vegetables prepared +in this way are excellent; cauliflower simmered in chicken broth, +seasoned delicately and minced on toast, is a nutritive good luncheon +for an invalid. + + * * * * * + +TIMBALE DE MACCARONI. + +This is a very pretty dish. The maccaroni must be boiled in water till +it slightly swells, and is soft enough to cut; it must be cut into +short pieces about two inches in length. Grease a mould, and stick the +maccaroni closely together all over the mould; when this is done, and +which will require some patience, fill up the space with friccassee +of chicken, sweetbreads, or whatever may be liked; close the mould +carefully, and boil. Rich white sauce is usually served with it, +but not poured over the timbale, as it would spoil the effect of the +honeycomb appearance, which is very pretty. + + * * * * * + +A SAVOURY PIE FOR PERSONS OF DELICATE DIGESTION. + +Cut up fowl and sweetbread, lay in the dish in alternate layers with +meat, jelly, and the yolks of hard-boiled eggs without the whites, +and flavor with lemon-juice, white pepper, and salt; cover with rice +prepared as follows: boil half a pound of rice in sufficient water to +permit it to swell; when tender beat it up to a thick paste with the +yolk of one or two eggs, season with a little salt, and spread it over +the dish thickly. The fowl and sweetbread should have been previously +simmered till half done in a little weak broth; the pie must be baked +in a gentle oven, and if the rice will not brown sufficiently, finish +with a salamander. + + * * * * * + +DESCAIDES. + +Take the livers of chickens or any other poultry; stew it gently in +a little good gravy seasoned with a little onion, mushroom essence, +pepper, and salt; when tender, remove the livers, place them on a +paste board, and mince them; return them to the saucepan, and stir +in the yolks of one or two eggs, according to the quantity of liver, +until the gravy becomes thick; have a round of toast ready on a hot +plate, and serve it on the toast; this is a very nice luncheon or +supper dish. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + + +Vegetables and Sundries. + +DIRECTIONS FOR CLEANING AND BOILING VEGETABLES. + +Vegetables are extremely nutritious when sufficiently boiled, but are +unwholesome and indigestible when not thoroughly dressed; still they +should not be over boiled, or they will lose their flavor. + +Vegetables should be shaken to get out any insects, and laid in water +with a little salt. + +Soft water is best suited for boiling vegetables, and they require +plenty of water; a little salt should be put in the saucepan with +them, and the water should almost invariably be boiling when they are +put in. + +Potatoes are much better when steamed. Peas and several other +vegetables are also improved by this mode of cooking them, although it +is seldom adopted in England. + + * * * * * + +MASHED POTATOES. + +Boil till perfectly tender; let them be quite dry, and press them +through a cullender, or mash and beat them well with a fork; add a +piece of butter, and milk, or cream, and continue beating till they +are perfectly smooth; return them to the saucepan to warm, or they may +be browned before the fire. The chief art is to beat them sufficiently +long, which renders them light. + +Potatoe balls are mashed potatoes formed into balls glazed with the +yolk of egg, and browned with a salamander. + + * * * * * + +POTATO WALL, OR EDGING. + +Raise a wall of finely-mashed potatoes, of two or three inches high, +round the dish; form it with a spoon to the shape required, brush it +over with egg, and put it in the oven to become hot and brown; if it +does not brown nicely, use the salamander. Rice is arranged the +same way to edge curries or fricassees; it must be first boiled till +tender. + + * * * * * + +POTATOE SHAVINGS. + +Take four fine large potatoes, and having peeled them, continue to cut +them up as if peeling them in ribbons of equal width; then throw the +shavings into a frying-pan, and fry of a fine brown; they must be +constantly moved with a silver fork to keep the pieces separate. They +should be laid on a cloth to drain, and placed in the dish lightly. + + * * * * * + +THE FRENCH WAY OF DRESSING SPINACH. + +Wash and boil till tender, then squeeze and strain it; press it in +a towel till almost dry; put it on a board, and chop it as finely as +possible; then return it to the saucepan, with butter, pepper, and +salt; stir it all the time, and let it boil fast. + + * * * * * + +STEWED SPINACH. + +Scald and chop some spinach small; cut up an onion; add pepper and +salt and brown sugar, with a little vinegar, stew all together gently; +serve with poached eggs or small forcemeat fritters. This forms a +pretty side-dish, and is also a nice way of dressing spinach to serve +in the same dish with cutlets. + + * * * * * + +TO STEW SPANISH BEANS AND PEAS. + +Soak the beans over night in cold water; they must be stewed in only +sufficient water to cover them, with two table spoonsful of oil, a +little pepper and salt, and white sugar. When done they should be +perfectly soft and tender. + + * * * * * + +PEAS STEWED WITH OIL. + +Put half a peck of peas into a stew-pan, half a lettuce chopped small, +a little mint, a small onion cut up, two table-spoonsful of oil, and a +dessert-spoonful of powdered sugar, with water sufficient to cover the +peas, watching, from time to time, that they do not become too +dry; let them stew gently, taking care that they do not burn, till +perfectly soft. When done they should look of a yellowish brown. + +French beans, brocoli, and greens, stewed in the above manner will be +found excellent. + + * * * * * + +CUCUMBER MANGO. + +Cut a large cucumber in half, length ways, scoop out the seedy part, +and lay it in vinegar that has been boiled with mustard-seed, a little +garlic, and spices, for twenty-four hours, then fill the cucumber with +highly-seasoned forcemeat, and stew it in a rich gravy, the cucumber +must be tied to keep it together. + + * * * * * + +CABBAGE AND RICE. + +Scald till tender a fine summer white cabbage, then chop it up small, +and put it into a stewpan, with a large cup of rice, also previously +scalded, add a little water, a large piece of butter, salt and pepper; +let it stew gently till thoroughly done, stirring from time to time, +and adding water and butter to prevent its getting too thick; there +should be no gravy in the dish when served. + + * * * * * + +PALESTINE SALAD. + +Take a dozen fine Jerusalem artichokes, boil till tender, let the +water strain off, and when cold cut them in quarters, and pour over +a fine salad mixture; the artichokes should lay in the sauce half an +hour before serving. This salad is a very refreshing one, and has the +advantage of being extremely wholesome. + + * * * * * + +A SPRING DISH. + +Take one quart of young peas, a little mint, a few lumps of sugar, a +little salt and white pepper, simmer them gently in one pint of water, +when the peas are half done, throw in small dumplings made of paste, +as if for short crust, and sweetened with a little brown sugar, beat +up two eggs, and drop in a spoonful at a time, just before serving; +it will require a deep dish, as the liquor is not to be strained off. +Some prefer the eggs poached. + + * * * * * + +CARROTS AU BEURRE. + +Boil them enough to be perfectly tender, then cut them in quarters, +and again in lengths of three inches, drain them from the water, and +put to them a piece of butter, salt and pepper, and simmer them for a +few minutes without boiling; a large piece of butter must be used. + +French beans are good dressed in the same way. + + * * * * * + +PUREE OF VEGETABLES. + +Take any vegetable that may be approved, boil till well done, drain +away all water, reduce the vegetable to a pulp, and add to it any fine +sauce, to make it of the consistency of a very thick custard. + + * * * * * + +JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES FRIED. + +Cut in slices after parboiling them, dip in batter, and fry. + + * * * * * + +STEWED RED CABBAGE. + +Clean and remove the outer leaves, slice it as thinly as possible, put +it in a saucepan with a large piece of butter, and a tea cup full of +water, salt and pepper; let it stew slowly till very tender. + + * * * * * + +MUSHROOMS AU NATUREL. + +Clean some fine fresh mushrooms, put them in a saucepan with a large +piece of butter, pepper and salt; let them simmer until tender, and +serve them with no other sauce than that in which they have been +dressed. Also stewed in a veal gravy, and served with white sauce on a +toast, they form a nice and pretty dish. + +The large flap mushrooms may be stewed in gravy, or simply broiled, +seasoned with cayenne pepper, salt, and lemon juice. + + * * * * * + +DRY TOMATO SOUP. + +Brown a couple of onions in a little oil, about two table-spoonsful +or more, according to the number of tomatos; when hot, add about six +tomatos cut and peeled, season with cayenne pepper and salt, and let +the whole simmer for a short time, then cut thin slices of bread, and +put as much with the tomatos as will bring them to the consistency +of a pudding; it must be well beaten up, stir in the yolks of two or +three eggs, and two ounces of butter warmed; turn the whole into a +deep dish and bake it very brown. Crumbs of bread should be strewed +over the top, and a little warmed butter poured over. + + * * * * * + +DEVILLED BISCUITS. + +Butter some biscuits on both sides, and pepper them well, make a paste +of either chopped anchovies, or fine cheese, and spread it on the +biscuit, with mustard and cayenne pepper, and grill them. + + * * * * * + +SAVOURY EGGS. + +Boil some eggs hard, put them into cold water, cut them into halves, +take out the yolks, beat them up in a mortar with grated hung beef, +fill the halves with this mixture, fry lightly, and serve with brown +gravy. + + * * * * * + +SAVOURY CHEESE CAKES. + +Grate finely an equal quantity of stale bread and good cheese, season +with a little pepper and salt, mix into a batter with eggs, form into +thin cakes and fry. + + * * * * * + +SCALLOPED EGGS. + +Poach lightly three or four eggs, place them in a dish, pour upon them +a little warm butter; sprinkle with pepper, salt, and nutmeg, strew +over with crumbs of bread, and brown before the fire. + + * * * * * + +MACCARONI AND CHEESE. + +Boil some maccaroni in milk or water until tender, then drain them and +place on a dish with bits of butter and grated Parmesan cheese; when +the dish is filled grate more cheese over it and brown before the +fire. + + * * * * * + +A FINE RECEIPT FOR A SAVOURY OMELETTE. + +Break four eggs, beat them up till thin enough to pass through a +hair sieve, then beat them up till perfectly smooth and thin; a small +omelette frying-pan is necessary for cooking it well. Dissolve in it +a piece of butter, about an ounce and a half, pour in the egg, and as +soon as it rises and is firm, slide it on to a warm plate and fold +it over; it should only be fried on one side, and finely minced herbs +should be sprinkled over the unfried side with pepper and salt. A +salamander is frequently held over the unfried side of the omelette to +take off the rawness it may otherwise have. + + * * * * * + +CHORISA OMELETTE. + +Add to the eggs, after they are well beaten as directed in the last +receipt, half a tea-cup full of finely minced _chorisa_; this omelette +must be lightly fried on both sides, or the salamander held over long +enough to dress the _chorisa_. + + * * * * * + +RAMAKINS. + +Mix together three eggs, one ounce of warmed butter, and two of fine +cheese grated, and bake in small patty pans. + + * * * * * + +RISSOLES. + +Make a fine forcemeat of any cold meat, poultry, or fish, enclose it +in a very rich puff paste, rolled out extremely thin. They may be made +into balls or small triangular turnovers, or into long narrow ribbons; +the edges must be pressed together, that they may not burst in frying. +They form a pretty dish. + + * * * * * + +CROQUETTES. + +Pound any cold poultry, meat, or fish, make it into a delicate +forcemeat; the flavor can be varied according to taste; minced +mushrooms, herbs, parsley, grated lemon peel, are suitable for poultry +and veal; minced anchovies should be used instead of mushrooms when +the croquettes are made of fish. Form the mixture into balls or oval +shapes the size of small eggs; dip them into beaten eggs, thickly +sprinkle with bread crumbs or pounded vermicelli, and fry of a +handsome brown. + + * * * * * + +CASSEROLE AU RIZ. + +Boil some rice till quite tender, make it into a firm paste with one +egg and a couple of tablespoons of strong gravy; then line the inside +of a mould with the paste of sufficient thickness to turn out without +breaking. Some cooks fill the mould instead of lining it only, and +scoop away the centre. After it is turned out the rice must stand till +cold, before it is removed from the mould; then fill the rice with +friccassee of fowl and sweetbread, with a rich white sauce, and place +it in the oven to become hot and brown. The mould used for a casserole +is oval and fluted, and resembles a cake mould. It is as well to +observe, it cannot be made in a jelly mould. + + * * * * * + +A FONDU. + +Make into a batter one ounce and a half of potatoe flour, with the +same quantity of grated cheese and of butter, and a quarter of a +pint of milk or cream; add a little salt, very little pepper, and the +well-beaten yolks of four fine fresh eggs; when all this is well mixed +together, pour in the whites of the eggs, well whisked to a froth; +pour the mixture into a deep soup plate or dish, used expressly for +the purpose, and bake in a moderate oven. The dish should be only half +filled with the _fondu_, as it will rise very high. It must be served +the moment it is ready, or it will fall. It is a good plan to hold a +salamander over it while being brought to table. + + * * * * * + +PETITS FONDEAUS. + +Make a batter as for a fondu, but use rice flour or arrow root instead +of potatoe flour; add the egg in the same manner as for a fondu, and +pour the mixture into small paper trays fringed round the top. The +mixture should only half fill the trays or cases. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + + +Pastry. + +DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING PASTE. + +To make good light paste requires much practice; as it is not only +from the proportions, but from the manner of mixing the various +ingredients, that paste acquires its good or bad qualities. + +Paste should be worked up very lightly, and no strength or pressure +used; it should be rolled out _from you_, as lightly as possible. A +marble slab is better than a board to make paste on. + +The flour should be dried for some time before the fire previously to +being used. In forming it into paste it should be wetted as little as +possible, to prevent its being tough. It is a great mistake to imagine +_lard_ is better adapted for pastry than butter or clarified fat; it +may make the paste lighter, but neither the color nor the flavor will +be nearly so good, and the saving is extremely trifling. + +To ensure lightness, paste should be set in the oven directly it is +made. + +Puff paste requires a brisk oven. + +Butter should be added to the paste in small pieces. + +The more times the paste is folded and rolled, if done with a light +hand and the butter added with skill, the richer and lighter it will +prove. It is no longer customary to line the dish for pies and fruit +tarts. + + * * * * * + +PLAIN PUFF PASTE. + +Mix a pound of flour into a stiff paste with a little water, first +having rubbed into it about two ounces of butter, then roll it out; +add by degrees the remainder of the butter (there should be altogether +half a pound of butter), fold the paste and roll about two or three +times. + + * * * * * + +VERY RICH PUFF PASTE. + +Mix in the same manner equal quantities of butter and flour, taking +care to have the flour dried for a short time before the fire; it may +be folded and rolled five or six times. This paste is well suited to +vol-au-vents and tartlets; an egg well beaten and mixed with the paste +is sometimes added. + + * * * * * + +PLAIN SHORT CRUST. + +Put half a pound of fresh butter to a pound of flour, add the yolks of +two eggs and a little powdered sugar, mix into a paste with water, and +roll out once. + + * * * * * + +EGG PASTE, CALLED IN MODERN COOKERY NOUILLES. + +This is formed by making a paste of flour and beaten eggs, without +either butter or water; it must be rolled out extremely thin and left +to dry; it may then be cut into narrow strips or stamped with paste +cutters. It is more fashionable in soups than vermicelli. + + * * * * * + +BEEF DRIPPING PASTE. + +Mix half a pound of clarified dripping into one pound of flour; work +it into a paste with water, and roll out twice. This is a good paste +for a common meat pie. + + * * * * * + +GLAZE FOR PASTRY. + +When the pastry is nearly baked, brush it over with white of egg, +cover it thickly with sifted sugar, and brown it in the oven, or it +may be browned with a salamander. + +For savory pies beat the yolk of an egg, dip a paste-brush into it, +and lay it on the crust before baking. + + * * * * * + +FRUIT TARTS OR PIES. + +A fruit tart is so common a sweet that it is scarcely necessary to +give any directions concerning it. Acid fruits are best stewed before +putting into a pie: the usual proportions are half a pound of sugar +to a quart of fruit--not quite so much if the fruit is ripe; the fruit +should be laid high in the middle of the dish, to make the pie a good +shape. It is the fashion to lay over the crust, when nearly baked, +an icing of the whites of eggs whisked with sugar; the tart or pie is +then replaced in the oven. + + * * * * * + +A VERY FINE SAVOURY PIE. + +Lay a fine veal cutlet, cut in pieces and seasoned, at the bottom of +the dish; lay over it a layer of smoked beef fat, then a layer of fine +cold jelly made from gravy-beef and veal, then hard boiled eggs in +slices, then chicken or sweetbread, and then again the jelly, and +so on till the dish is filled; put no water, and season highly with +lemon-juice, essence of mushroom, pepper, salt, and nutmeg; also, +if approved, a blade of mace: small cakes of fine forcemeat are an +improvement; cover with a fine puff paste, and brush over with egg, +and bake. + + * * * * * + +TARTLETS. + +Make a very rich light puff paste, and roll it out to half an inch of +thickness; it should be cut with fluted paste-cutters, lightly baked, +and the centre scooped out afterwards, and the sweetmeat or jam +inserted; a pretty dish of pastry may be made by cutting the paste in +ribbons of three inches in length, and one and a half in width; bake +them lightly, and pile them one upon another, with jam between each, +in the form of a cone. + + * * * * * + +CHEESECAKES. + +Warm four ounces of butter, mix it with the same quantity of +loaf-sugar sifted, grate in the rind of three lemons, squeeze in +the juice of one, add three well-beaten eggs, a little nutmeg, and +a spoonful of brandy; put this mixture into small tins lined with a +light puff paste, and bake. + +Cheesecakes can be varied by putting almonds beaten instead of the +lemon, or by substituting Seville oranges, and adding a few slices of +candied orange and lemon peel. + + * * * * * + +GIBLET PIE. + +Prepare the giblets as for "_stewed giblets_" they should then be laid +in a deep dish, covered with a puff paste, and baked. + + * * * * * + +MOLINA PIE. + +Mince finely cold veal or chicken, with smoked beef or tongue; season +well, add lemon-juice and a little nutmeg, let it simmer in a small +quantity of good beef or veal gravy; while on the fire, stir in the +yolks of four eggs, put it in a dish to cool, and then cover with a +rich pastry, and bake it. + + * * * * * + +VOL AU VENT. + +This requires the greatest lightness in the pastry, as all depends +upon its rising when baked; it should be rolled out about an inch and +a half in thickness, cut it with a fluted tin of the size of the dish +in which it is to be served. Also cut a smaller piece, which must be +rolled out considerably thinner than an inch, to serve as a lid for +the other part; bake both pieces, and when done, scoop out the +crumb of the largest, and fill it with a white fricassee of chicken, +sweetbread, or whatever may be selected; the sauce should be well +thickened, or it would soften, and run through the crust. + + * * * * * + +A VOL-AU-VENT OF FRUIT. + +It is now the fashion to fill _vol-au-vents_ with fruits richly stewed +with sugar until the syrup is almost a jelly; it forms a very pretty +entremêt. + + * * * * * + +PETITS VOL-AU-VENTS. + +These are made in the same way, but cut in small rounds, the crumb +of the larger is scooped out, and the hollow filled with any of the +varieties of patty preparations or preserved fruits. + + * * * * * + +MINCE PIES. + +Grease and line tin patty-pans with a fine puff paste rolled out thin; +fill them with mince-meat, cover them with another piece of paste, +moisten the edges, close them carefully, cut them evenly round, and +bake them about half an hour in a well-heated oven. + + * * * * * + +PATTY MEATS + +May be prepared from any dressed materials, such as cold dressed veal, +beef and mutton, poultry, sweetbreads, and fish; the chief art is to +mince them properly, and give them the appropriate flavor and sauce; +for veal, sweetbreads, and poultry, which may be used together or +separately, the usual seasonings are mace, nutmeg, white pepper, salt, +mushrooms minced, or in powder, lemon-peel, and sometimes the juice also; +the mince is warmed in a small quantity of white sauce, not too thin, +and the patty crusts, when ready baked, are filled with it. + +For beef and mutton the seasonings are salt, pepper, allspice, a few +sweet herbs powdered, with the addition, if approved, of a little +ketchup; the mince must be warmed in strong well-thickened beef gravy. + +If the mince is of fish, season with anchovy sauce, nutmeg, +lemon-peel, pepper and salt; warm it, in a sauce prepared with butter, +flour, and milk or cream, worked together smoothly and stirred till +it thickens; the mince is then simmered in it for a few minutes, till +hot; the seasonings may be put with the sauces, instead of with the +mince. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + + +Sweet Dishes, Puddings, Cakes, &c. + +GENERAL REMARKS. + +The freshness of all ingredients for puddings is of great importance. + +Dried fruits should be carefully picked, and sometimes washed and +should then be dried. Rice, sago, and all kinds of seed should be +soaked and well washed before they are mixed into puddings. + +Half an hour should be allowed for boiling a bread pudding in a half +pint basin, and so on in proportion. + +All puddings of the custard kind require gentle boiling, and when +baked must be set in a moderate oven. By whisking to a solid froth the +whites of the eggs used for any pudding, and stirring them into it at +the moment of placing it in the oven, it will become exceedingly light +and rise high in the dish. + +All baked puddings should be baked in tin moulds in the form of a deep +pie dish, but slightly fluted, it should be well greased by pouring +into it a little warmed butter, and then turned upside down for a +second, to drain away the superfluous butter; then sprinkle, equally +all over, sifted white sugar, or dried crumbs of bread, then pour the +pudding mixture into the mould; it should, when served, be turned +out of the mould, when it will look rich and brown, and have the +appearance of a cake. + +To ensure the lightness of cakes, it is necessary to have all the +ingredients placed for an hour or more before the fire, that they may +all be warm and of equal temperature; without this precaution, cakes +will be heavy even when the best ingredients are employed. Great +care and experience are required in the management of the oven; to +ascertain when a cake is sufficiently baked, plunge a knife into it, +draw it instantly away, when, if the blade is sticky, return the cake +to the oven; if, on the contrary, it appears unsoiled the cake is +ready. + +The lightness of cakes depends upon the ingredients being beaten +well together. All stiff cakes may be beaten with the hand, but pound +cakes, sponge, &c., should be beaten with a whisk or spoon. + + * * * * * + +BOLA D'AMOR. + +The recipe for this much celebrated and exquisite confection is +simpler than may be supposed from its elaborate appearance, it +requires chiefly care, precision, and attention. Clarify two pounds of +white sugar; to ascertain when it is of a proper consistency, drop a +spoonful in cold water, form it into a ball, and try if it sounds +when struck against a glass; when it is thus tested, take the yolks +of twenty eggs, mix them up gently and pass them through a sieve, +then have ready a funnel, the hole of which must be about the size of +vermicelli; hold the funnel over the sugar, while it is boiling over a +charcoal fire; pour the eggs through, stirring the sugar all the time, +and taking care to hold the funnel at such a distance from the sugar, +as to admit of the egg dropping into it. When the egg has been a few +minutes in the sugar, it will be hard enough to take out with a silver +fork, and must then be placed on a drainer; continue adding egg to +the boiling sugar till enough is obtained; there should be previously +prepared one pound of sweet almonds, finely pounded and boiled in +sugar, clarified with orange flower-water only; place in a dish a +layer of this paste, over which spread a layer of citron cut in thin +slices, and then a thick layer of the egg prepared as above; continue +working thus in alternate layers till high enough to look handsome. +It should be piled in the form of a cone, and the egg should form the +last layer. It must then be placed in a gentle oven till it becomes +a little set, and the last layer slightly crisp; a few minutes will +effect this. It must be served in the dish in which it is baked, and +is generally ornamented with myrtle and gold and silver leaf. + + * * * * * + +BOLA TOLIEDO. + +Take one pound of butter, and warm it over the fire with a little +milk, then put it into a pan with one pound of flour, six beaten eggs, +a quarter of a pound of beaten sweet almonds, and two table-spoonsful +of yeast; make these ingredients into a light paste, and set it before +the fire to rise; then grease a deep dish, and place in a layer of +the paste, then some egg prepared as for Bola d'Amor, then slices +of citron, and a layer of egg marmalade, sprinkle each layer with +cinnamon, and fill the dish with alternate layers. A rich puff paste +should line the dish, which ought to be deep; bake in a brisk oven, +after which, sugar clarified with orange flour-water must be poured +over till the syrup has thoroughly penetrated the Bola. + + * * * * * + +A BOLA D'HISPANIOLA. + +Take one pound and a half of flour, with three spoonsful of yeast, two +ounces of fresh butter, one table spoonful of essence of lemon, eight +eggs, and half a tea-cup full of water, and make it into a light +dough, set it to rise for about an hour, then roll it out and cut +it into three pieces; have previously ready, a quarter of a pound of +citron, and three quarters of a pound of orange and lemon peel, cut in +thin slices, mixed with powdered sugar and cinnamon; the Bola should +be formed with the pieces of dough, layers of the fruit being placed +between; it should not be baked in a tin. Powdered sweet almonds and +sugar, should be strewed over it before baking. + + * * * * * + +SUPERIOR RECEIPT FOR ALMOND PUDDING. + +Beat up the yolks of ten eggs, and the whites of seven; add half a +pound of sweet almonds pounded finely, half a pound of white sugar, +half an ounce of bitter almonds, and a table-spoonful of orange flower +water, when thoroughly mixed, grease a dish, put in the pudding and +bake in a brisk oven; when done, strew powdered sugar over the top, +or, which is exceedingly fine, pour over clarified sugar with orange +flower water. + + * * * * * + +GERMAN OR SPANISH PUFFS. + +Put a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and a tea-cup full of cold +water into a saucepan, when the butter is melted, stir in, while on +the fire, four table spoonsful of flour; when thoroughly mixed, put +it in a dish to cool, and then add four well beaten eggs; butter some +cups, half fill them with the batter, bake in a quick oven and serve +with clarified sugar. + + * * * * * + +A LUCTION, OR A RACHAEL. + +Make a thin nouilles paste, cut into strips of about two inches wide, +leave it to dry, then boil the strips in a little water, and drain +through a cullender; when the water is strained off, mix it with +beaten eggs, white sugar, a little fresh butter, and grated lemon +peel; bake or boil in a shape lined with preserved cherries, when +turned out pour over a fine custard, or cream, flavored with brandy, +and sweetened to taste. + + * * * * * + +PRENESAS. + +Take one pint of milk, stir in as much flour as will bring it to the +consistency of hasty pudding; boil it till it becomes thick, let it +cool, and beat it up with ten eggs; when smooth, take a spoonful at a +time, and drop it into a frying-pan, in which there is a good quantity +of boiling clarified butter, fry of a light brown, and serve with +clarified sugar, flavored with lemon essence. + + * * * * * + +SOPA D'ORO: OR GOLDEN SOUP. + +Clarify a pound of sugar in a quarter of a pint of water, and the same +quantity of orange flower-water; cut into pieces the size of dice +a thin slice of toasted bread, or cut it into shapes with a paste +cutter, throw it, while hot, into the sugar, with an ounce of sweet +almonds pounded very finely, then take the beaten yolks of four eggs. +Pour over the sugar and bread, stir gently, and let it simmer a few +minutes. Serve in a deep glass dish, sprinkled over with pounded +cinnamon. + + * * * * * + +POMMES FRITES. + +This is a simple but very nice way of preparing apples. Peel and cut +five fine apples in half, dip them in egg and white powdered sugar, +and fry in butter; when done, strew a little white sugar over them. + + * * * * * + +CHEJADOS. + +Clarify a pound of sugar in half a pint of water; peel and grate a +moderately sized cocoa nut, add it to the syrup, and let it simmer +till perfectly soft, putting rose water occasionally to prevent its +becoming too dry; stir it continually to prevent burning. Let it cool, +and mix it with the beaten yolks of six eggs; make a thin nouilles +pastry, cut it into rounds of the size of a tea-cup; pinch up the +edges deep enough to form a shape, fill them with the sweet meat, and +bake of a light brown. A rich puff paste may be substituted for the +nouilles pastry if preferred. + + * * * * * + +COCOA NUT DOCE. + +This is merely the cocoa nut and sugar prepared as above, without egg, +and served in small glasses, or baked. + + * * * * * + +COCOA NUT PUDDING. + +Take about half a pound of finely grated cocoa nut; beat up to a cream +half a pound of fresh butter, add it to the cocoa nut, with half a +pound of white sugar, and six whites of eggs beaten to a froth; mix +the whole well together, and bake in a dish lined with a rich puff +paste. + + * * * * * + +EGG MARMALADE. + +Clarify one pound of sugar in half a pint of water till it becomes a +thick syrup. While clarifying, add one ounce of sweet almonds blanched +and pounded; let it cool, and stir in gently the yolks of twenty eggs +which have been previously beaten and passed through a sieve; great +care must be taken to stir it continually the same way; when well +mixed, place it over a slow fire till it thickens, stirring all the +time to prevent burning. Some cooks add vanilla, considering the +flavor an improvement. + + * * * * * + +MACROTES. + +Take one pound of French roll dough, six ounces of fresh butter, two +eggs, and as much flour as will be requisite to knead it together; +roll in into the form of a long French roll, and cut it in thin round +slices; set them at a short distance from the fire to rise, and then +fry in the best Florence oil; when nearly cold, dip them in clarified +sugar, flavored with essence of lemon. + + * * * * * + +TART DE MOY. + +Soak three-quarters of a pound of savoy biscuits in a quart of milk; +add six ounces of fresh butter, four eggs, one ounce of candid orange +peel, the same quantity of lemon peel, and one ounce of citron, mix +all well together; sweeten with white sugar, and bake in a quick oven; +when nearly done, spread over the top the whites of the eggs well +whisked, and return it to the oven. + + * * * * * + +GRIMSTICH. + +Make into a stiff paste one pint of biscuit powder, a little brown +sugar, grated lemon peel, six eggs, and three-quarters of a pound +of warmed fresh butter; then prepare four apples chopped finely, a +quarter of a pound of sweet almonds blanched and chopped, half a pound +of stoned raisins, a little nutmeg grated, half a pound of coarse +brown sugar, and a glass of white wine, or a little brandy; mix the +above ingredients together, and put them on a slow fire to simmer for +half an hour, and place in a dish to cool; make the paste into the +form of small dumplings, fill them with the fruit, and bake them; when +put in the oven, pour over a syrup of brown sugar and water, flavored +with lemon juice. + + * * * * * + +FRENCH ROLL FRITTERS. + +Take off the crust of a long round French roll; cut the crumb in thin +slices, soak them in boiling milk, taking care they do not break; have +a dish ready with several eggs beaten up, and with a fish slice remove +the bread from the milk, letting the milk drain off, dip them into the +dish of eggs, and half fry them in fine salad oil, they must then +be again soaked in the milk and dipped the egg, and then fried of a +handsome light brown; while hot, pour over clarified sugar, flavored +with cinnamon and orange flower water. + + * * * * * + +HAMAN'S FRITTERS. + +Take two spoonful of the best Florence oil, scald it, and when hot, +mix with it one pound of flour, add four beaten eggs and make it into +a paste, roll it out thin and cut it into pieces about four inches +square, let them dry and fry them in oil; the moment the pieces are +put in the frying pan, they must be drawn up with two silver skewers +into different forms according to fancy; a few minutes is sufficient +to fry them, they should be crisp when done. + + * * * * * + +WAFLERS. + +Mix a cup and a half of thick yeast with a little warm milk, and set +it with two pounds of flour before the fire to rise, then mix with +them one pound of fresh butter, ten eggs, a grated nutmeg, a quarter +of a pint of orange flower-water, a little powdered cinnamon, and +three pints of warm milk; when the batter is perfectly smooth, butter +the irons, fill them with it, close them down tightly, and put them +between the bars of a bright clear fire; when sufficiently done, they +will slip easily out of the irons. + +Wafler irons are required and can be obtained at any good ironmongers +of the Hebrew persuasion. + + * * * * * + +LAMPLICH. + +Take half a pound of currants, the same quantity of raisins and sugar, +a little citron, ground cloves and cinnamon, with eight apples finely +chopped; mix all together, then have ready a rich puff paste cut into +small triangles, fill them with the fruit like puffs, and lay them in +a deep dish, let the pieces be placed closely, and when the dish is +full, pour over one ounce of fresh butter melted in a tea-cup full of +clarified sugar, flavoured with essence of lemon, and bake in an oven +not too brisk. + + * * * * * + +STAFFIN. + +This is composed of the fruit, &c., prepared as above, but the dish +is lined with the paste, and the fruit laid in alternate layers with +paste till the dish is filled; the paste must form the top layer, +clarified sugar is poured over before it is put into the oven. + + * * * * * + +RICE FRITTERS. + +Boil half a pound of rice, in a small quantity of water, to a jelly; +let it cool, and beat it up with six eggs, three spoonsful of flour, a +little grated lemon peel, fry like fritters, either in butter or oil, +and serve with white sugar sifted over them. + + * * * * * + +LEMON TART. + +Grate the peel of six lemons, add the juice of one, with a quarter of +a pound of pounded almonds, a quarter of a pound of preserved lemon +and orange peel, half a pound of powdered white sugar, and six eggs +well beaten, mix all together, and bake in a dish lined with a fine +pastry. + + * * * * * + +ANOTHER WAY. + +Slice six lemons and lay them in sugar all night, then mix with them +two savoy biscuits, three ounces of orange and lemon peel, three +ounces of ground almonds, one ounce of whole almonds blanched, and +bake in a dish lined with pastry. Orange tarts are prepared in the +same way, substituting oranges for the lemons. + + * * * * * + +ALMOND RICE. + +Boil half a pound of whole rice in milk until soft, beat it through +a sieve, set it on the fire, with sugar according to taste, a few +pounded sweet almonds and a few slices of citron; when it has simmered +a short time, let it cool; place it in a mould, and when sufficiently +firm turn it out, stick it with blanched almonds, and pour over a fine +custard. This may be made without milk, and by increasing the quantity +of almonds will be found exceedingly good. + + * * * * * + +ALMOND PASTE. + +Blanch half a pound of fine almonds, pound them to a paste, a few +drops of water are necessary to be added, from time to time, or they +become oily; then mix thoroughly with it half a pound of white sifted +sugar, put it into a preserving pan, and let them simmer very gently +until they become dry enough not to stick to a clean spoon when +touched; it must be constantly stirred. + + * * * * * + +RICE FRUIT TARTS. + +For persons who dislike pastry, the following is an excellent way of +preparing fruit. Boil in milk some whole rice till perfectly soft, +sweeten with white sugar, and when nearly cold, line a dish with it, +have ready some currants, raspberries, cherries, or any other fruit, +which must have been previously stewed and sweetened, fill the dish +with it; beat up the whites of three eggs to a froth, mixed with a +little white sugar, and lay over the top, and place it in the oven for +half an hour. + + * * * * * + +BREAD FRUIT TARTS. + +Line a dish with thin slices of bread, then lay the fruit with brown +sugar in alternate layers, with slices of bread; when the dish is +filled, pour over half a tea-cup full of water, and let the top be +formed of thin pieces of bread thickly strewed over with brown sugar, +bake until thoroughly done. + + * * * * * + +RICE CUSTARD. + +This is a very innocent and nutritive custard. Take two ounces of +whole rice and boil it in three pints of milk until it thickens, then +add half a pound of pounded sweet almonds, and sweeten to taste; a +stick of cinnamon and a piece of lemon peel should be boiled in it, +and then taken out. + + * * * * * + +CREME BRUN. + +Boil a large cup of cream, flavor with essence of almonds and +cinnamon, and then mix with it the yolk of three eggs, carefully +beaten and strained, stirring one way to keep it smooth; place it on a +dish in small heaps, strew over powdered sugar and beaten almonds, and +brown with a salamander. + + * * * * * + +PANCAKES. + +Mix a light batter of eggs with flour and milk or water, fry in +boiling butter or clarified suet; they may be fried without butter or +fat, by putting more eggs and a little cream, the pan must be very +dry and clean; those fried without butter are very delicate and +fashionable, they should be fried of the very lightest colour; they +are good also made of rice, which must be boiled in milk till quite +tender; then beat up with eggs, and flavoured according to taste, and +fried like other pancakes. + + * * * * * + +PANCAKES FOR CHILDREN. + +Take a pint of finely grated bread crumbs, simmer in a little milk +and water, flavour with cinnamon or lemon peel grated, add a couple of +beaten eggs, and sweeten to taste, drop a small quantity into the pan +and fry like pancakes. + + * * * * * + +A NICE RICE PUDDING FOR CHILDREN. + +Boil till tender half a pound of well picked rice in one quart of +fresh milk, sweeten with white sugar, and flavour with whole cinnamon, +lemon peel, and a bay leaf; when the rice is tender, place it in a +deep dish, pour over a very little butter warmed in a little milk, +and bake until brown; a slow oven is requisite unless the rice is +extremely soft before it is put in the oven. + + * * * * * + +A RICH BREAD AND BUTTER PUDDING. + +Lay in a deep dish alternate layers of bread and butter cut from a +French roll, and the following mixture: the yolks of four eggs beaten, +four ounces of moist sugar, a few soaked ratafias, a table-spoonful +of brandy and a few currants; fill up the dish with these layers, and +pour over a little milk, the last layer should be of bread and butter, +the whites of the eggs beaten to a froth may, if an elegant appearance +is wished for, be laid over the top when the pudding is nearly baked. + + * * * * * + +A CHERRY BATTER PUDDING. + +Stone and pick some fine cherries, put them into a buttered mould, +and pour over them a fine batter well sweetened, tie over the mould +closely, and boil one hour and a half; serve with sweet sauce. This +is a delicious pudding; plums or damsons are sometimes used instead of +cherries. + + * * * * * + +CUMBERLAND PUDDING. + +Take equal quantities of bread crumbs, apples finely chopped, currants +and shred suet, sweeten with brown sugar, and mix all together with +three eggs, a little brandy, grated nutmeg, and lemon peel; boil in +a round mould from one to two hours, according to the size of the +pudding. + + * * * * * + +COLLEGE PUDDING. + +These are made in a similar way to Cumberland pudding, with the +omission of the apples, they are made in balls, and fried or baked in +cups. A sweet sauce is served with them. + + * * * * * + +PLUM PUDDING. + +To one pound of currants add one pound of raisins, one pound of shred +suet, one pound flour (or half a pound bread crumbs and half a pound +of flour), a quarter of a pound of candied orange and lemon peel, +a little citron cut thin, half a pound of moist sugar; mix all well +together as each article is added, then stir in six beaten eggs and a +glass of brandy, beat the pudding well for half an hour, let it stand +some time, then put it into a basin and boil six or seven hours in +plenty of water; it should be seasoned according to taste with ginger, +nutmeg, cloves, &c. Serve with sifted sugar or whites of eggs beaten +to a froth. + + * * * * * + +RATAFIA PUDDING. + +Soak the crumb of a French roll and half a pound of ratafia cakes in +milk or cream, then mix with them three ounces of warmed fresh butter, +the yolks of five and the whites of two eggs, sweeten to taste; add +one ounce of pounded almonds, and a few bitter almonds, boil in a +shape lined with dried cherries, or bake in a cake-tin first well +buttered, and sprinkled with bread crumbs. + + * * * * * + +PASSOVER PUDDING. + +Mix equal quantities of biscuit powder and shred suet, half the +quantity of currants and raisins, a little spice and sugar, with an +ounce of candied peels, and fine well beaten eggs; make these into +a stiff batter, and boil well, and serve with a sweet sauce. This +pudding is excellent baked in a pudding tin, it must be turned out +when served. + + * * * * * + +ANOTHER SORT. + +Mix the various ingredients above-named, substituting for the raisins, +apples minced finely, add a larger proportion of sugar, and either +boil or bake. + + * * * * * + +ANOTHER SORT. + +Mix into a batter a cup full of biscuit powder, with a little milk and +a couple of eggs, to which add three ounces of sugar, two of warmed +butter, a little shred of lemon peel, and a table-spoonful of rum; +pour the mixture into a mould, and boil or bake. + + * * * * * + +PASSOVER FRITTERS. + +Mix into a smooth batter a tea-cup of biscuit powder with beaten eggs, +and sweeten with white sifted sugar; add grated lemon peel, and a +spoonful of orange flower-water, and fry of a light brown; the flavor +may be varied by substituting a few beaten almonds, with one or two +bitter, instead of the orange flower-water. + + * * * * * + +A SUPERIOR RECEIPT FOR PASSOVER FRITTERS. + +Make a thin batter as already described in the former receipt; drop +it into a souflé pan, fry lightly, and strew over pounded cinnamon, +sifted sugar, and finely chopped almonds; hold over a salamander to +brown the upper side. Slide the fritter on to a hot dish, and fold; +pour over, when in the dish, clarified sugar. + + * * * * * + +PASSOVER CURRANT FRITTERS. + +Mix a thick batter, as before, add some well-washed and dried +currants, and fry of a rich brown; serve with a sweet sauce, flavored +with wine or shrub, and sweetened with moist sugar; these are often +made in the shape of small balls, and fried and served in the same +sauce. + + * * * * * + +BATTER PUDDING. + +Stir in three ounces of flour, four beaten eggs, and one pint of milk, +sweeten to taste, and mix to a smooth batter about the thickness of +good cream, and boil in a buttered basin. + + * * * * * + +CUSTARD PUDDING. + +To one desert spoonful of flour, add one pint of fresh milk and the +yolks of five eggs; flavor according to fancy, with sugar, nutmeg, or +lemon-peel; beat to a froth two whites of eggs and pour to the rest; +boil rather more than half an hour. + + * * * * * + +BREAD PUDDING. + +Grate stale bread, or soak the crumb of a French roll in milk, which +must be warmed; beat with it two or three eggs, flavor and sweeten +to taste, sometimes with a little wine or essence of lemon, or beaten +almonds; it will require to be boiled about half an hour. This pudding +is excellent made as above, with the addition of the peel of one whole +lemon grated, with its juice, and baked. + + * * * * * + +VERMICELLI AND MACCARONI PUDDING. + +Boil till tender four ounces of either of the above articles, in a +pint of milk; flavor as directed in the preceding receipt, and boil in +a mould, which may be lined with raisins. It should be served with any +sweet pudding sauce. + + * * * * * + +MILLET, ARROWROOT, GROUND RICE, RICE, TAPIOCA, AND SAGO PUDDINGS. + +Puddings of this sort are so similar and simple, that it is only +necessary to give one receipt, which will serve as a guide for +all;--they are all made with milk, all require to be thoroughly done, +all require to be mixed with eggs and sweetened with sugar, and +are good either boiled or baked. The cook must use her judgment in +adopting the quantities to the size of the pudding required, and the +taste of the family she serves. + + * * * * * + +MINCED MEAT. + +Take one pound of tender roasted meat, two pounds of shred suet, three +pounds of currants, six chopped apples, a quarter of a loaf grated, +nutmegs, cloves, pepper, salt, one pound of sugar, grated lemon and +orange peel, lemon juice, and two wine glasses of brandy, the same of +white wine, and two ounces of citron, and the same of candied lemon +peel; mix all well together; the ingredients ought to be added +separately. Minced meat should be kept a day or two before using. The +same proportions, as above, without meat, will be very good; a little +port wine is sometimes substituted for the brandy. + + * * * * * + +BAKED SUET PUDDING. + +Mix one pint of water, six ounces of flour, three of shred suet, and +two or three beaten eggs; sweeten to taste. Add raisins or currants if +approved, and bake in a brick oven. + + * * * * * + +YORKSHIRE PUDDING. + +Mix into a smooth batter half a pound of flour, four eggs, if intended +to be rich, otherwise two, a pint of milk, and a little salt, it +should be about an inch thick; it can be made with or without milk by +using a greater proportion of eggs, but it is not so good. + + * * * * * + +GATEAU DE TOURS. + +Take a pound-cake, cut it in slices about half an inch in thickness, +spread each slice with jam or preserve, then replace them to the +original form; cover the cake with whites of eggs and sugar, whisked +to a froth, and set it in a cool oven to dry. + + * * * * * + +JAUMANGE. + +Simmer half a pound of white sugar in three-quarters of a pint of +water, with the thinly cut peel of two lemons; when the sugar is +melted, add an ounce of dissolved isinglass, and the juice of three +lemons, a glass of brandy and three of sherry, beat up with this the +yolks of five or six eggs. Place the basin in which it is mixed into a +pan of boiling water to thicken it, then pour it into a mould and set +it to cool; if it does not thicken by being put in a pan of boiling +water, set the pan on the fire and stir it for a few minutes. + + * * * * * + +GATEAU DE POMME. + +Take ten or twelve fine baking apples, peel and take out the cores, +and let them simmer in milk and water; when soft drain them, and beat +them up with a wooden fork, with half an ounce of dissolved isinglass, +white sifted sugar, sufficient to sweeten, and grated lemon peel. Put +the mixture, when perfectly smooth, into a mould, set it in ice or +a very cool place, when it is turned out it should be covered with a +fine custard. + + * * * * * + +APPLE CHARLOTTE. + +Prepare the apples as in the last receipt; but instead of using a +jelly mould, put the apples into an oval cake tin about the size of a +small side dish, four or five inches high; when cold, turn it out +and cover the apple-shape with savoy cakes placed closely together +perpendicularly; all round the top of the charlotte should be covered +with whites of eggs and sugar, beaten to a stiff froth, and placed in +small balls; a salamander should be used to crisp them and to give +a slight peach-like colour; a tasteful cook will, after crisping the +first layer of these balls, add others over them to form a sort of +cone high in the centre, that will have a pretty effect if well done. +This is an easy and elegant _entremêt_, and by no means an expensive +one. + + * * * * * + +A SOUFLE. + +Take half a pint of cream and the same quantity of new milk, and warm +them together in a clean saucepan, meanwhile make a smooth batter with +four ounces of rice-flour or potatoe-flour, and stir into the milk, +let it simmer, stirring all the time till it thickens; then add two +to three ounces of fresh butter, and white sifted sugar enough to +sweeten, and a little grated lemon peel; then take it off the fire and +stir quickly to it the well-beaten yolks of six to eight eggs, butter +the pan and pour the mixture into it, when on the point of being +placed into the oven, add the whites of the eggs thoroughly whisked; +the pan must be only half filled, as it will rise very high; it must +be served immediately it is taken from the oven, even in passing to +the dinner table a salamander should be held over it, to prevent its +falling and becoming heavy and unsightly. The French flavour a souflé +with orange flour-water or vanilla, and the rind of a Seville orange +is sometimes substituted for the rind of a lemon; there are dishes +made expressly for souflés. + + * * * * * + +A PLAIN SOUFLE. + +Mix well together six ounces of rice-flour, arrowroot, or _tous les +mois_, with half a pint of milk flavoured with essence of almond +and lemon peel, or orange-flour water, let it thicken over the fire, +stirring to keep it smooth, sweeten with white sugar, add the beaten +yolks of five eggs, proceed as in the last receipt, adding the whisked +whites at the moment of placing the souflé into the oven; if +there happen to be no souflé dish, a cake-tin may make a tolerable +substitute, a paper fringed should then line the tin and a napkin +should be twisted round it when brought to table. + + * * * * * + +A SWEET OMELET. + +Beat up three or four eggs, pour them into an omelet pan, and sprinkle +a little white sugar over them while frying, hold a salamander or hot +shovel over the uppermost side of the omelet, as it must only be fried +on one side. As soon as it is set, slide it on to a hot dish, double +it, and sprinkle sugar over it and serve quickly. + + * * * * * + +OMLETTE SOUFLEE. + +Fry the eggs as directed for sweet omelet, using about five yolks and +two whites, all of which require being finely beaten and strained. +Soften a little preserve by holding it over the fire, or mixing a +little warm water with it, spread it slightly over the omelette, have +the remainder of the whites whisked to a froth with white sugar, and +lay it on the preserve; slide the omelette on to a hot dish, double +it, and serve directly. + + * * * * * + +FANCY CREAMS. + +Put into a basin a pint of cream, to which add four ounces of powdered +white sugar, and the rind of a lemon rubbed on a lump of sugar, and a +glass of sherry wine; whisk them well and mix with it half an ounce +of dissolved isinglass, beat it all thoroughly together, and fill the +mould, which should be set in ice till wanted. A table spoonful of +marasquino added to the above, will make _Italian cream_. A table +spoonful of fresh or preserved pine-apple will make _pine-apple +cream_; this will require the addition of a little lemon syrup. A +table spoonful of ratafia, will make it _ratifia cream_. + +The juice of strawberries or raspberries make fine fruit creams; +_mille fruit cream_ is made by mixing with the cream any kind of small +preserved fruit. + + * * * * * + +RICE SOUFLES. + +Boil well some fine picked rice, in pure fresh milk, sweeten and +flavour with a bay leaf, lemon peel, and a stick of cinnamon, all +which must be taken out when the rice is done, then line with it +a round dish, or souflé dish, have ready apples previously boiled, +sweetened, and beat up smoothly, place the apple lightly in the centre +rather higher in the middle than at the sides, beat up the whites of +eggs to a froth, sweeten and flavour with lemon, or noyau essence; +place it in small heaps tastefully on the apple and rice, and brown +delicately with a salamander. This souflé may have stewed cherries or +any _other_ kind of fruit, instead of the apples if preferred. + + * * * * * + +BOILED CUSTARD. + +Take a pint of milk, let it simmer in a very clean saucepan, flavor +it with lemon-peel and a bay leaf, and sweeten to taste; while gently +boiling, add the beaten yolks of four eggs, and the whites of two, +continue stirring until the custard thickens, when it must be removed +from the fire, but it is requisite to stir it until it cools. It is +necessary to strain the milk before the eggs are added, and also to +pass the eggs through a sieve. Custards are flavoured sometimes +with essence of almonds; a little cream added to the milk is a great +improvement. The above mixture may be baked in small cups; they +require a quarter of an hour to bake. + + * * * * * + +CALF'S FEET JELLY. + +Boil two feet in two quarts, or five pints of water, till the water +has half wasted; strain, and when cold, take off the fat, then put it +in the saucepan with lump sugar, lemon juice, and white wine to taste, +also a little lemon peel; when simmered a few minutes, throw in the +whites of two eggs, and their shells broken, which will have the +effect of clarifying the jelly; let it boil about ten minutes after +the scum rises, then pour it through a flannel bag or thick cloth, +dipping the bag or cloth first into hot water; pass the jelly through +it until clear, then pour it into moulds and put them in a cool place +to set. One calf's foot and one cow heel will be more economical than +two calfs feet. If fruit is desired to be in the jelly, it must be put +in when the jelly begins to stiffen in the mould. + + * * * * * + +ORANGE JELLY. + +This can be made with calf's feet or without. One quart of water will +require one ounce of isinglass, simmer the isinglass in the water, +and add the peel of one lemon and one orange; when the isinglass is +dissolved, add the juice of a lemon and six fine oranges; although the +quantity must vary according to the season for them, sweeten with half +a pound of white sugar; a Seville orange is added if there should not +be much flavor in the others. + +Lemon jelly is made in the same way; the peel of a Seville orange and +of a lemon is used, with the juice of five lemons; rather more sugar +will be required with this jelly than with the former. + +Punch jelly is made in the same way. An equal quantity of brandy +and rum, with the juice of two or three lemons is mixed with the +isinglass, which is dissolved in one pint of water, the other pint of +liquid being made up by the lemon juice and spirits. + +The essence of noyeau is reckoned to give an exquisite flavor, in this +case it requires to be coloured with a few drops of cochineal. + + * * * * * + +AN EASY TRIFLE. + +Soak three sponge cakes and half a pound of macaroons and ratafias +in one wine glass of brandy and three of white wine, lay them at the +bottom of the trifle dish, and pour over nearly a pint of thick rich +custard, made of equal portions of milk and cream, with seven eggs, +according to directions for "Custards;" before the custard is added, +jam and sweetmeats are sometimes spread over the cakes; a fine light +froth is prepared with cream and the whites of two eggs, flavored with +wine and sugar, heap it over the trifle lightly. + + * * * * * + +A STILL MORE SIMPLE ONE, AND QUICKLY MADE. + +Soak ratafia cakes in wine, with a little brandy; pour over a thick +custard, and cover with a froth of the white of eggs, flavored with +wine and sweetened with white sugar. + + * * * * * + +BLANCMANGE. + +To a quart of milk add half an ounce of fine isinglass, a handful +of beaten almonds, and two or three bitter almonds, a couple of bay +leaves, and a piece of lemon peel; when the isinglass is dissolved, +strain the milk into a basin; sweeten with four ounces of white sugar, +and pour into a mould. + +The juice of fresh strawberries is a fine addition to blancmange. + + * * * * * + +A JUDITHA. + +Put some gooseberries into a saucepan with very little water, when +they are soft, pulp them through a sieve, and add several well-beaten +yolks of eggs, and sweeten with white sugar; have ready a shape of +biscuit ice, or any other cream ice that may be preferred, take off a +thick slice of the ice from the top carefully, and without breaking, +so that it may be replaced on the ice. Scoop out a large portion of +the ice which may be mixed with the gooseberry cream, and fill the +hollow with it. Cover the shape with the piece that was removed and +serve. This is an elegant dish, the ice should be prepared in a round +mould--brown-bread ice is particularly well adapted to a Juditha. + + * * * * * + +TOURTE A LA CRÊME. + +This is a fashionable and delicate description of tart. A couple of +round cutters about the size of a pie plate are required for it, one +of the cutters must be about two inches smaller than the other, if +they are fluted the tourte will have a better appearance. + +Roll out some very rich puff paste to the thickness of one inch, and +cut two pieces with the larger tin cutter, then press the smaller +cutter through one of these pieces, and remove the border which will +be formed round it; this must be laid very evenly upon the other piece +of paste, and slightly pressed to make it adhere; place the tourte in +an oven to bake for about twenty minutes, then let it become cool, but +not cold, and fill it with a fine custard or with any rich preserves; +if the latter, a well whipped cream may be laid lightly over; the +pastry may be glazed if approved. + + * * * * * + +THE GROSVENOR PUDDING. + +Beat half a pound of butter with the same quantity of white sugar +until it is like cream, then beat up five eggs and add them with half +a pound of flour, a quarter of a pound of currants, two ounces of +candied orange and lemon peel cut in thin slices, and a few drops +of lemon essence; when these ingredients are well mixed and beaten, +butter a pudding tin, pour in the mixture, and bake in a moderately +quick oven. + + * * * * * + +CITRON PUDDING. + +Cut in slices two ounces of citron, the same quantity of candied +orange and lemon peel, add to them four ounces of loaf sugar, and four +of fresh butter; line a dish with fine puff paste, and beat up to a +froth the yolks of four eggs and the whites of two, fill the dish with +these ingredients and bake half an hour. The dish should be shallow. + + * * * * * + +STEWED PEARS. + +Peel, core, and quarter a dozen fine large baking pears, put them into +a stewpan with half a pound of white sugar and sufficient cold water +to cover them; with a small quantity of the peelings, a few cloves, +and a little cochineal tied up in a muslin bag, let them stew gently, +and closely covered until tender. + + * * * * * + +BAKED PEARS. + +Peel them and stick a couple of cloves in each pear, place them in a +deep dish, with half a pound of brown sugar and a little water, let +them bake till quite tender. + + * * * * * + +STEWED PIPPINS. + +Peel the pippins and stew them gently with a little water, white +sugar, and a little lemon peel; preserve is usually used to ornament +the top of each apple; they should, when done, look white and rather +transparent. + + * * * * * + +SIESTA CAKE. + +Take one pound of butter, warm it over the fire with a little milk, +put it into a pan with a pound of flour, six eggs, a quarter of a +pound of sweet almonds finely pounded, and two table-spoonsful of +yeast; beat these ingredients well together into a light paste, and +set it before the fire to rise, butter the inside of a pan, and fill +it with alternate layers of the paste, and of pounded almonds, sugar, +citron, and cinnamon; when baked, and while hot, make holes through +the siesta with a small silver skewer, taking care not to break it, +and pour over clarified sugar till it is perfectly soaked through. + + * * * * * + +A PLAIN BOLA. + +Take three quarters of a pound of white sugar, three quarters of a +pound of fresh butter, two eggs, one pound and a half of flour, three +spoonsful of yeast, a little milk, and two ounces of citron cut thin, +and mix into a light paste; bake in a tin, and strew powdered sugar +and cinnamon over it before baking. + +The above ingredients are often baked in small tins or cups. + + * * * * * + +ALMOND TEA-CAKES. + +Take half-a-pound of flour, three ounces of which are to be put aside +for rolling out the cakes, the other five ounces, with a quarter of +a pound of fresh butter, are to be set before the fire for a few +minutes; after which mix with it half a pound of sugar, a quarter of a +pound of sweet almonds, chopped fine, and a couple of eggs; make these +ingredients into thin cakes, and strew over them ground almonds and +white sugar, and bake in a brisk oven. + + * * * * * + +OIL TWIST. + +Take half a quartern of dough, one gill of the best Florence oil, +half a pound of currants, half a pound of moist sugar, and a little +cinnamon; mix all well together, make it up in the form of a twist, +and bake it. + + * * * * * + +CINNAMON CAKES. + +Rub half a pound of fresh butter into a pound of flour; work it well +together, then add half a pound of sifted sugar, and a tea-spoonful of +pounded cinnamon, and make it into a paste, with three eggs; roll it, +and cut into small cakes, with tin cutters. + + * * * * * + +RICH PLUM CAKE. + +Beat to a cream one pound of butter, to which add the same quantity of +sifted loaf sugar and of fine flour, the whites of ten eggs beaten to +a froth, and the yolks of the same also beaten till quite smooth +and thin, and half a nutmeg grated; lastly, work in one pound of +well-washed currants, half a pound of mixed candied peels, cut small, +and a glass of brandy; bake for two hours. + + * * * * * + +DIET-BREAD CAKE. + +Beat together five eggs and half a pound of white sugar, then add six +ounces of flour well dried and sifted, a little lemon-juice and grated +lemon-peel; bake in a moderate oven. + + * * * * * + +DROP CAKES. + +Mix one pound of flour with the same quantity of butter, sugar, and +currants; make these into a paste with a couple of eggs, add a little +orange flower-water and a little white wine; if the paste is likely +to be too thin when two eggs are used, omit the white of one; drop the +mixture when ready on a tin plate, and bake. + + * * * * * + +A COMMON CAKE. + +Rub in with one pound of flour six ounces of butter, and two +tea-spoonsful of yeast, to a paste; set it to rise, then mix in five +eggs, half a pound of sugar, and a quarter of a pint of milk; add +currants or carraways, and beat well together. If required to +be richer, put more butter and eggs, and add candied citron and +lemon-peel. + + * * * * * + +A SODA CAKE. + +Mix with the above ingredients one drachm of soda, which should be +rubbed in with the flour. This is reckoned a wholesome cake, and half +the quantity of eggs are required, or it may be rendered a fine rich +cake by increasing the quantity of eggs, butter, and fruit. + + * * * * * + +A PLAIN CAKE. + +Work into two pounds of dough a quarter of a pound of sugar, the same +of butter; add a couple of eggs, and bake in a tin. + + * * * * * + +A POUND CAKE. + +Beat to cream a pound of butter and a pound of sifted loaf sugar; add +eight beaten eggs, stir in lightly three quarters of a pound of flour, +beat well together, and bake for one hour in a brisk oven; currants +may be added if, approved. + + * * * * * + +BUTTER CAKES. + +Take equal quantities of butter and sugar, say half a pound of each, +grate the rind of a lemon, add a little cinnamon, and as much flour +as will form it into a paste, with spice and eggs; roll it out, cut +it into two small cakes, and bake. A piece of candied orange or +lemon-peel may be put on the top of each cake. + + * * * * * + +LITTLE SHORT CAKES. + +Rub into a pound of flour four ounces of butter, four ounces of white +powdered sugar, and two eggs; make it into a paste, roll it thin, and +cut into small cakes with tin cutters. A little orange flower-water or +sweet wine improve the flavour of these cakes. + + * * * * * + +MATSO CAKES. + +Make a stiff paste with biscuit powder and milk and water; add a +little butter, the yolk of an egg, and a little white sugar; cut into +pieces, and mould with the hand, and bake in a brisk oven. These cakes +should not be too thin. + + * * * * * + +ANOTHER SORT. + +Warm a quarter of a pint of water flavoured with a little salt, in +which mix four beaten eggs; then mix half a pound of matso flour, and +a couple of lumps of white sugar, and half a teacup of milk; mix all +well together, and bake in a tin. + + * * * * * + +FRIED MATSOS. + +Soak some of the thickest matsos in milk, taking care they do not +break; then fry in boiling fresh butter. This is a very nice method of +preparing them for breakfast or tea. + + * * * * * + +MATSO DIET BREAD. + +Simmer one pound of white sugar in a quarter of a pint of water, which +pour hot upon eight well-beaten eggs; beat till cold, when add one +pound of matso flour, a little grated lemon-peel, and bake in a +papered tin, or in small tins; the cake must be removed while hot. + + * * * * * + +A CAKE WITHOUT BUTTER. + +Beat well five eggs, to which add six ounces of flour; flavour with +beaten almonds, and add, if liked, thin slices of citron; bake in a +mould in a moderate oven. + + * * * * * + +SPONGE CAKES. + +Mix six eggs, half the whites, half a pound of lump sugar, half a +pound of flour, and a quarter of a pint of water, which should be +strongly flavoured by lemon peel having been in it for some hours; +the sugar and water should boil up together, and poured over the eggs +after they have been well whisked, which must be continued while the +liquid is being poured over them, and until they become quite thick +and white, then stir in the flour, which must be warm and dry. Pour +the mixture into a couple of cake tins, and bake in a gentle oven. + + * * * * * + +A NICE BREAKFAST CAKE. + +Make a paste of half a pound of flour, one ounce of butter, a very +little salt, two eggs, and a table-spoonful of milk, roll it out, but +first set it to rise before the fire; cut it into cakes the size of +small cheese plates, sprinkle with flour, and bake on a tin in a brisk +oven, or they may be fried in a clean frying pan; they should be cut +in half, buttered hot, and served quickly. + + * * * * * + +ICING FOR CAKES. + +Whisk half a pound of sifted white sugar, with one wine glass of +orange flower-water, and the whites of two eggs, well beaten and +strained; it must be whisked until it is quite thick and white; and +when the cake is almost cold, dip a soft camel's hair brush into it, +and cover the cake well, and set it in a cool oven to harden. + + * * * * * + +TO CLARIFY SUGAR. + +Take the proportion of one pound of sugar to half a pint of water, +with the whites of a couple of eggs; boil it up twice, then set it by +for the impurities to rise to the top, and skim it carefully. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + + +Preserving and Bottling. + +Attention and a little practice will ensure excellence in such +preserves as are in general use in private families; and it will +always be found a more economical plan to purchase the more rare and +uncommon articles of preserved fruits than to have them made at home. + +The more sugar that is added to fruit the less boiling it requires. + +If jellies be over-boiled, much of the sugar will become candied, and +leave the jelly thin. + +Every thing used for the purpose of preserving should be clean and +very dry, particularly bottles for bottled fruit. + +Fruit should boil rapidly _before_ the sugar is added, and quietly +afterwards--when preserves seem likely to become mouldy, it is +generally a sign they have not been sufficiently boiled, and it will +be requisite to boil them up again--fruit for bottling should not be +too ripe, and should be perfectly fresh; there are various methods +adopted by different cooks: the fruit may be placed in the bottles, +and set in a moderate oven until considerably shrunken, when the +bottles should be removed and closely corked; or the bottles may be +set in a pan with cold water up to the necks, placed over the fire; +when the fruit begins to sink remove them, and when cold fill up each +bottle with cold spring water, cork the bottles, and lay them on their +sides in a dry place. + +To bottle red currants--pick them carefully from the stalk, and add, +as the currants are put in, sifted white sugar; let the bottles +be well filled and rosin the corks, and keep them with their necks +downwards. + + * * * * * + +BRANDIED CHERRIES. + +Put into a large wide mouthed bottle very ripe black cherries, add to +them two pounds of loaf sugar, a quart of brandy, and a few cloves, +then bruise a few more cherries, and simmer with sugar, strain and add +the juice to the cherries in the bottle, cork closely, and keep in a +warm dry place. + + * * * * * + +QUINCE MARMALADE. + +Peel, cut into quarters, and core two pounds of sharp apples, and the +same quantity of quinces; put them into a jar, with one pound of white +sugar powdered and sprinkled over them; cover them with half a pint +of water, and put in also a little bruised cochineal tied in a muslin. +Set them in a slack oven till tender, take out the cochineal, and pulp +the fruit to a marmalade. + +Some cooks prefer boiling the sugar and water first and scalding the +fruit till tender, and then adding them to the syrup. + + * * * * * + +DAMSON MARMALADE. + +Is made in the same manner as quince, as also apricot marmalade, which +is very fine; the fruit must be stoned, and some of the kernels put in +with the fruit, which are peeled, and apricots are cut in pieces; they +should be carefully pulped through a clean sieve. + + * * * * * + +PRESERVED APRICOTS. + +Halve and pare ripe apricots, or if not quite ripe, boil them till the +skin can easily be removed. Lay them in a dish hollow downwards, +sift over them their own weight of white sugar, let them lay for some +hours, then put the fruit, with the sugar and juice into a preserving +pan, and simmer till the fruit is clear, take it out, put it carefully +into pots, and pour over the syrup. + +This receipt will serve as a guide for preserved nectarines, peaches, +plums, gages, &c. A few of the kernels should always be put in with +the fruit, as they improve the flavor of the preserve. + + * * * * * + +STRAWBERRIES PRESERVED WHOLE. + +Weigh an equal quantity of fruit and white sugar powdered, sift all +the sugar over the fruit, so that half of it shall equally be covered, +let it lay till the next day, when boil the remainder with red currant +juice, in which simmer the strawberries until the jelly hangs about +them. Put the strawberries into pots, taking care not to break them, +and pour over the syrup. + +This receipt will serve for raspberries and cherries, which make a +fine preserve. + + * * * * * + +STRAWBERRY JAM. + +Bruise gently, with the back of a wooden spoon, six pounds of fine +fresh fruit, and boil them with very little water for twenty minutes, +stirring until the fruit and juice are well mixed; then put in +powdered loaf sugar of equal weight to the fruit, and simmer half an +hour longer. If the preserve is not required to be very rich, half the +weight of sugar in proportion to the quantity of fruit may be used; +but more boiling will be requisite. By this recipe also are made +raspberry, currant, gooseberry, apricot, and other jams. + + * * * * * + +RED CURRANT JELLY. + +Strip carefully from the stems some quite ripe currants, put them into +a preserving pan, stir them gently over a clear fire until the juice +flows freely from them, then squeeze the currants and strain the juice +through a folded muslin or jelly bag; pour it into a preserving pan, +adding, as it boils, white sugar, in the proportion of one pound of +sugar to one pint of juice. + +If made with less sugar, more boiling will be required, by which much +juice and flavour are lost. A little dissolved isinglass is used by +confectioners, but it is much better without. Jams and jellies should +be poured into pots when in a boiling state. + +Jellies should be continually skimmed till the scum ceases to rise, +so that they may be clear and fine. White currant jelly and black are +made in the same manner as red. By this receipt can be made raspberry +jelly, strawberry jelly, and all other kinds. + + * * * * * + +APPLE JELLY. + +Pare, core, and cut small any kind of fine baking apples--say six +pounds in weight; put them in a preserving pan with one quart of +water; boil gently till the apples are very soft and broken, then pass +the juice through a jelly bag; when, to each pint, add half a pound of +loaf sugar, set it on the fire to boil twenty minutes, skimming it as +the scum rises; it must not be over boiled, or the colour will be too +dark. + + * * * * * + +PEAR-SYRUP OR JELLY. + +This preparation, although little known in England, forms an important +article of economy in many parts of the Continent. The pears are first +heated in a saucepan over the fire until the pulp, skins, &c., have +separated from the juice, which is then strained, and boiled with +coarse brown sugar to the thickness of treacle; but it has a far +more agreeable flavour. It is cheaper than butter or treacle, and is +excellent spread upon bread for children. + + * * * * * + +PLUM JAM. + +This is a useful and cheap preserve. Choose the large long black plum; +to each gallon of which add three pounds of good moist sugar; bake +them till they begin to crack, when, put them in pots, of a size for +once using, as the air is apt to spoil the jam. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + + +Pickling. + +The best vinegar should always be used for pickling; in all cases it +should be boiled and strained. + +The articles to be pickled should first be parboiled or soaked in +brine, which should have about six ounces of salt to one quart of +water. + +The spices used for pickling are whole pepper, long peppers, allspice, +mace, mustard-seed, and ginger, the last being first bruised. + +The following is a good proportion of spice: to one quart of vinegar +put half an ounce of ginger, the same quantity of whole-pepper and +allspice, and one ounce of mustard-seed; four shalots, and one clove +of garlic. + +Pickles should be kept secure from the air, or they soon become +soft; the least quantity of water, or a wet spoon, put into a jar of +pickles, will spoil the contents. + + * * * * * + +TO PICKLE GHERKINS AND FRENCH BEANS. + +These are, of all vegetables, the most difficult to pickle, so that +their green colour and freshness may be preserved. Choose some fine +fresh gherkins, and set them to soak in brine for a week; then drain +them, and pour over boiling vinegar, prepared with the usual spices, +first having covered them with fresh vine leaves. If they do not +appear to be of a fine green, pour off the vinegar, boil it up again, +cover the gherkins with fresh green vine leaves, and pour over the +vinegar again. French beans are pickled exactly the same. + + * * * * * + +TO PICKLE CAULIFLOWERS. + +Remove the stalks and leaves, break the flower into pieces, parboil +them in brine, then drain them, and lay them in a jar, and pour over +boiling spiced vinegar. + + * * * * * + +TO PICKLE MELON MANGOES. + +Cut the melons in half, remove the pulpy part and the seeds, soak +the halves for a week in strong brine, then fill them with the +usual spices, mustard-seed and garlic, and tie them together with +packthread; put them in jars, and pour over boiling spiced vinegar. +Large cucumbers may be pickled in the same way. + + * * * * * + +PICCALILI. + +Pickle gherkins, French beans, and cauliflower, separately, as already +directed; the other vegetables used are carrots, onions, capsicums, +white cabbage, celery, and, indeed almost any kind may be put into +this pickle, except walnuts and red cabbage. They must be cut in small +pieces, and soaked in brine, the carrots only, requiring to be boiled +in it to make them tender; then prepare a liquor as follows: into +half a gallon of vinegar put two ounces of ginger, one of whole black +pepper, one of whole allspice, and one of bruised chillies, three +ounces of shalots, and one ounce of garlic; boil together nearly +twenty minutes; mix a little of it in a basin, with two ounces of +flour of mustard and one ounce of turmeric, and stir it in gradually +with the rest; then pour the liquor over the vegetables. + + * * * * * + +TO PICKLE MUSHROOMS. + +Choose small button mushrooms, clean and wipe them, and throw them +into cold water, then put into a stewpan with a little salt, and cover +them with distilled vinegar, and simmer a few minutes. Put them in +bottles with a couple of blades or so of mace, and when cold, cork +them closely. + + * * * * * + +TO PICKLE ONIONS. + +Choose all of a size and soak in boiling brine, when cold, drain them +and put them in bottles, and fill up with hot distilled vinegar; if +they are to be _white_, use white wine vinegar; if they are to be +_brown_, use the best distilled vinegar, adding, in both cases, a +little mace, ginger, and whole pepper. + + * * * * * + +TO PICKLE WHITE AND RED CABBAGE. + +Take off the outside leaves, cut out the stalk, and shred the cabbage +into a cullender, sprinkle with salt, let it remain for twenty-four +hours, then drain it. Put it into jars, and fill up with boiling +vinegar, prepared with the usual spices; if the cabbage is red, a +little cochineal powdered, or a slice or two of beet-root is necessary +to make the pickle a fine colour; if it is white cabbage, add instead, +a little turmeric powder. + + * * * * * + +TO PICKLE WALNUTS. + +Soak in brine for a week, prick them, and simmer in brine, then let +them lay on a sieve to drain, and to turn black, after which place +them in jars, and pour over boiling spiced vinegar. + + * * * * * + +AN OLD WAY OF PICKLING CUCUMBERS. + +Cut the cucumbers in small pieces, length ways, with the peel left +on; lay them in salt for twenty-four hours, then dry the pieces with +a cloth, lay them in a deep dish, and pour over the following mixture: +some vinegar boiled with cayenne pepper, whole ginger, a little +whole pepper, and mustard seed, a few West India pickles are by some +considered an improvement. This mixture should stand till nearly cold +before covering the cucumbers, which should then be bottled. This +pickle is fit for eating a few days after it is made, and will also +keep good in a dry place as long as may be required. + + + + +CHAPTER X. + + +Receipts for Invalids. + +BEEF TEA. + +Cut one pound of fleshy beef in dice, or thin slices, simmer for a +short time without water, to extract the juices, then add, by degrees, +one quart of water, a little salt, a piece of lemon peel, and a +sprig of parsley, are the only necessary seasonings; if the broth is +required to be stronger put less water. + + * * * * * + +CHICKEN PANADA. + +Boil a chicken till rather more than half done in a quart of water, +take of the skin, cut off the white parts when cold, and pound it to +a paste in a mortar, with a small quantity of the liquor it was boiled +in, season with salt, a little nutmeg, and the least piece of lemon +peel; boil it gently, and make it with the liquor in which the fowl +has been boiled of the required consistency. It should be rather +thicker than cream. + + * * * * * + +CHICKEN BROTH. + +After the white parts have been removed for the panada, return the +rest of the chicken to the saucepan, with the liquid, add one blade +of mace, one slice only of onion, a little salt, and a piece of lemon +peel; carefully remove every particle of fat. Vermicelli is very well +adapted for this broth. + + * * * * * + +RESTORATIVE JELLIES. + +There are various kinds of simple restorative jellies suited to an +invalid, among the best are the following:-- + + * * * * * + +HARTSHORN JELLY. + +Boil half a pound of hartshorn shavings in two quarts of water over a +gentle fire until it becomes thick enough to hang about a spoon, then +strain it into a clean saucepan and add half a pint of sherry wine, +and a quarter of a pound of white sugar, clear it by stirring in the +whites of a couple of eggs, whisked to a froth; boil it for about four +or five minutes, add the juice of three lemons, and stir all together, +when it is well curdled, strain it and pour into the mould, if the +color is required to be deeper than the wine will make it, a little +saffron may be boiled in it. + + * * * * * + +BARLEY JELLY. + +Boil in an iron saucepan, one tea-cup full of pearl barley, with one +quart of cold water, pour off the water when it boils, and add another +quart, let it simmer very gently for three hours over or near a slow +fire, stirring it frequently with a wooden spoon, strain it, and +sweeten with white sugar, add the juice of a lemon, a little white +wine, and a quarter of an ounce of isinglass dissolved in a little +water, and pour it into a mould. This is a very nourishing jelly. + + * * * * * + +CAUDLE. + +Make a fine smooth gruel of grits, with a few spices boiled in it, +strain it carefully and warm as required, adding white wine and a +little brandy, nutmeg, lemon peel, and sugar, according to taste, some +persons put the yolk of an egg. + + * * * * * + +RICE CAUDLE. + +Boil half a pint of milk, add a spoonful of ground rice mixed with a +little milk till quite smooth, stir it into the boiling milk, let +it simmer till it thickens, carefully straining it, and sweeten with +white sugar. + + * * * * * + +BARLEY MILK. + +Boil half a pound of pearl barley in one quart of new milk, taking +care to parboil it first in water, which must be poured off, sweeten +with white sugar. This is better made with pearl barley than the +prepared barley. + + * * * * * + +RESTORATIVE MILK. + +Boil a quarter of an ounce of isinglass in a pint of new milk till +reduced to half, and sweeten with sugar candy. + + * * * * * + +MILK PORRIDGE. + +Make a fine gruel with new milk without adding any water, strain +it when sufficiently thick, and sweeten with white sugar. This is +extremely nutritive and fattening. + + * * * * * + +WINE WHEY. + +Set on the fire in a saucepan a pint of milk, when it boils, pour in +as much white wine as will turn it into curds, boil it up, let the +curds settle, strain off, and add a little boiling water, and sweeten +to taste. + + * * * * * + +TAMARIND WHEY. + +Boil three ounces of tamarinds in two pints of milk, strain off the +curds, and let it cool. This is a very refreshing drink. + + * * * * * + +PLAIN WHEY. + +Put into boiling milk as much lemon juice or vinegar as will turn it, +and make the milk clear, strain, add hot water, and sweeten. + + * * * * * + +ORGEAT. + +Beat three ounces of almonds with a table-spoonful of orange-flour +water, and one bitter almond; then pour one pint of new milk, and one +pint of water to the paste, and sweeten with sifted white sugar; half +an ounce of gum-arabic is a good addition for those who have a tender +chest. + + * * * * * + +IRISH MOSS. + +Boil half an ounce of carrageen or Irish moss, in a pint and a half +of water or milk till it is reduced to a pint; it is a most excellent +drink for delicate persons or weakly children. + + * * * * * + +A FINE SOFT DRINK FOR A COUGH. + +Add to a quarter of a pint of new milk warmed, a beaten new laid egg, +with a spoonful of capillaire, and the same of rose water. + + * * * * * + +A REFRESHING DRINK. + +Cut four large apples in slices, and pour over a quart of boiling +water, let them stand till cold, strain the liquor, and sweeten with +white sugar; a little lemon peel put with the apples improves the +flavour. + + * * * * * + +A VERY FINE EMMOLIENT DRINK. + +Wash and rinse extremely well one ounce of pearl barley, then put to +it one ounce of sweet almonds beaten fine, and a piece of lemon +peel, boil together till the liquor is of the thickness of cream and +perfectly smooth, then put in a little syrup of lemon and capillaire. + + * * * * * + +A COOLING DRINK IN FEVER. + +Put a little tea-sage, and a couple of sprigs of balm into a jug, with +a lemon thinly sliced, and the peel cut into strips, pour over a quart +of boiling water, sweeten and let it cool. + + + + +APPENDIX. + + +FRENCH METHOD OF MAKING COFFEE. + +Take in the proportion of one ounce of the berries to half a pint of +water, and grind them at the instant of using them. Put the powder +into a coffee biggin, press it down closely, and pour over a little +water sufficient to moisten it, and then add the remainder by degrees; +the water must be perfectly boiling all the time; let it run quite +through before the top of the percolator is taken off, it must be +served with an equal quantity of boiling milk. Coffee made in this +manner is much clearer and better flavored than when boiled, and it is +a much more economical method than boiling it. + + * * * * * + +A FRENCH RECEIPT FOR MAKING CHOCOLATE. + +Take one ounce of chocolate, cut it in small pieces, and boil it about +six or seven minutes with a small teacup full of water; stir it till +smooth, then add nearly a pint of good milk, give it another boil, +stirring or milling it well, and serve directly. If required very +thick, a larger proportion of chocolate must be used. + + * * * * * + +EGG WINE. + +Beat a fresh egg, and add it to a tumbler of white wine and water, +sweetened and spiced; set it on the fire, stir it gently one way until +it thickens; this, with toast, forms a light nutritive supper. + + * * * * * + +MULLED WINE. + +Boil a little spice, cinnamon, ginger, and cloves, in water, till the +flavor is gained, then add wine, as much as may be approved, sugar and +nutmeg; a strip or two of orange rind cut thin will be found a great +improvement. + + * * * * * + +TO MAKE PUNCH. + +To make one quart, provide two fine fresh lemons, and rub off the +outer peel upon a few lumps of sugar; put the sugar into a bowl with +four ounces of powdered sugar, upon which press the juice of the +lemons, and pour over one pint and a half of very hot water that +_has not boiled_, then add a quarter of a pint of rum, and the same +quantity of brandy; stir well together and strain it, and let it stand +a few minutes before it is drank. + +Whiskey punch is made after the same method; the juice and thin peel +of a Seville orange add variety of flavor to punch, particularly of +whiskey punch. + + * * * * * + +MILK PUNCH. + +Put into a quart of new milk the thinly pared rind of a lemon, and +four ounces of lump sugar; let it boil slowly, remove the peel, and +stir in the yolks of two eggs, previously mixed with a little cold +milk; add by degrees a tea-cup full of rum, the same of brandy; +mill the punch to a fine froth, and serve immediately in quite warm +glasses. The punch must not be allowed to boil after the eggs have +been added. + + * * * * * + +A FRENCH PLUM PIE. + +Stew one pound of fine dried French plums until tender, in water, +rather more than enough to cover, with one glass of port wine, and +four ounces of white sugar, which must however not be added until +the plums are quite tender, then pour them with the liquor into a +pie-dish, and cover with a rich puff paste, and bake. + + * * * * * + +ROASTED CHESTNUTS FOR DESSERTS. + +Chestnuts are so frequently sent to table uneatable, that we will +give the French receipt for them. They should be first boiled for five +minutes, and then finish them in a pan over the fire; they will after +the boiling require exactly fifteen minutes roasting; the skin must be +slightly cut before they are cooked. + + * * * * * + +TO ROAST PARTRIDGES AND PHEASANTS. + +They may be either _piqué_ or not; partridges require roasting rather +more than half an hour, pheasants three-quarters, if small, otherwise +an hour; they are served with bread sauce. + +Partridges may be stewed as pigeons. + + * * * * * + +TO ROAST VENISON. + +Wipe the venison dry, sprinkle with salt, and cover with writing paper +rubbed with clarified fat; cover this with a thick paste made of flour +and water, round which, tie with packthread white kitchen paper, so as +to prevent the paste coming off; set the venison before a strong +fire, and baste it directly and continue until it is nearly done, then +remove the paper, paste, &c.; draw the venison nearer the fire, dredge +it with flour, and continue basting; it should only take a light +brown, and should be rather under than over-done; a large haunch +requires from three to four hours roasting, a small one not above +three. Serve with the knuckle, garnished with a fringe of white paper, +and with gravy and red currant jelly, either cold or melted, in port +wine, and served hot. + + * * * * * + +A VENISON PASTY. + +Having baked or boiled two hours in broth, with a little seasoning, +any part selected, cut the meat in pieces, season with cayenne pepper, +salt, pounded mace, and a little allspice, place it into a deep dish; +lay over thin slices of mutton fat, and pour a little strong beef +gravy flavored with port wine into the dish; cover with a thick puff +paste, and bake. + + * * * * * + +SALMON PIE. + +Cut two pounds of fine fresh salmon in slices about three quarters of +an inch thick, and set them aside on a dish, clean and scrape five or +six anchovies and halve them, then chop a small pottle of mushrooms, +a handful of fresh parsley, a couple of shalots, and a little green +thyme. Put these together into a saucepan, with three ounces of +butter, a little pepper, salt, nutmeg, and tarragon; add the juice +of a lemon, and half a pint of good brown gravy, and let the whole +simmer, gently stirring it all the time; also slice six eggs boiled +hard, then line a pie-dish with good short paste, and fill it with +alternate layers of the slices of salmon, hard eggs, and fillets of +anchovies, spreading between each layer the herb sauce, then cover the +dish with the paste, and bake in a moderately heated oven. + + * * * * * + +CHICKEN PUDDING. + +Line a basin with a good beef-suet paste, and fill it with chicken, +prepared in the following way: cut up a small chicken, lightly fry the +pieces, then place them in a stew-pan, with thin slices of _chorissa_, +or, if at hand, slices of smoked veal, add enough good beef gravy to +cover them; season with mushroom essence or powder, pepper, salt, and +a very small quantity of nutmeg, and mace; simmer gently for a quarter +of an hour, and fill the pudding; pour over part of the gravy and keep +the rest to be poured over the pudding when served in the dish. The +pudding, when filled, must be covered closely with the paste, the +ends of which should be wetted with a paste brush to make it adhere +closely. + + * * * * * + +A FINE BEEFSTEAK PIE. + +Cut two pounds of beef steaks into large collops, fry them quickly +over a brisk fire, then place them in a dish in two or three layers, +strewing between each, salt, pepper, and mushroom powder; pour over a +pint of strong broth, and a couple of table-spoonsful of Harvey-sauce; +cover with a good beef suet paste, and bake for a couple of hours. + +The most delicate manner of preparing suet for pastry is to clarify +it, and use it as butter; this will be found a very superior method +for meat pastry. + + * * * * * + +AN EASY RECEIPT FOR A CHARLOTTE RUSSE. + +Trim straitly about six ounces of savoy biscuits, so that they may fit +closely to each other; line the bottom and sides of a plain mould with +them, then fill it with a fine cream made in the following manner: put +into a stewpan three ounces of ratafias, six of sugar, the grated rind +of half an orange, the same quantity of the rind of a lemon, a small +piece of cinnamon, a wine-glass full of good maraschino, or fine +noyeau, one pint of cream, and the well beaten yolks of six eggs; stir +this mixture for a few minutes over a stove fire, and then strain it, +and add half a pint more cream, whipped, and one ounce of dissolved +isinglass. Mix the whole well together, and set it in a basin imbedded +in rough ice; when it has remained a short time in the ice fill the +mould with it, and then place the mould in ice, or in a cool place, +till ready to serve. + + * * * * * + +ANOTHER EXCELLENT RECEIPT FOR A FRUIT CHARLOTTE. + +Line a jelly mould with fine picked strawberries, which must first be +just dipped into some liquid jelly, to make them adhere closely, then +fill the mould with some strawberry cream, prepared as follows: take +a pottle of scarlet strawberries, mix them with half a pound of white +sugar, rub this through a sieve, and add to it a pint of whipped +cream, and one ounce and a half of dissolved isinglass; pour it into +the mould, which must be immersed in ice until ready to serve, and +then carefully turned out on the dish, and garnished according to +fancy. + + * * * * * + +ICED PUDDING. + +Parboil three quarters of a pound of Jordan almonds, and one quarter +of bitter almonds, remove the skins and beat them up to a paste, with +three quarters of a pound of white pounded sugar, add to this six +yolks of beaten eggs, and one quart of boiled cream, stir the whole +for a few minutes over a stove fire, strain it, and pour it into +a freezing pot, used for making ices; it should be worked with a +scraper, as it becomes set by freezing; when frozen sufficiently +firm, fill a mould with it, cover it with the lid, and let it remain +immersed in rough ice until the time for serving. + + * * * * * + +ITALIAN SALAD. + +Cut up the white parts of a cold fowl, and mix it with mustard and +cress, and a lettuce chopped finely, and pour over a fine salad +mixture, composed of equal quantities of vinegar and the finest salad +oil, salt, mustard, and the yolks of hard boiled eggs, and the yolk +of one raw egg, mixed smoothly together; a little tarragon vinegar is +then added, and the mixture is poured over the salad; the whites of +the eggs are mixed, and serve to garnish the dish, arranged in small +heaps alternately with heaps of grated smoked beef; two or three hard +boiled eggs are cut up with the chicken in small pieces and mixed with +the salad; this is a delicate and refreshing _entrée_; the appearance +of this salad may be varied by piling the fowl in the centre of the +dish, then pour over the salad mixture, and make a wall of any dressed +salad, laying the whites of the eggs (after the yolks have been +removed for the mixture), cut in rings on the top like a chain. + + + + +THE TOILETTE. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + + +The Complexion. + +The various cosmetics sold by perfumers, assuming such miraculous +powers of beautifying the complexion, all contain, in different +proportions, preparations of mercury, alcohol, acids, and other +deleterious substances, which are highly injurious to the skin; and +their continual application will be found to tarnish it, and produce +furrows and wrinkles far more unsightly than those of age, beside +which they are frequently absorbed by the vessels of the skin, enter +the system, and seriously disturb the general health. + +A fine fresh complexion is best ensured by the habitual use of soft +water, a careful avoidance of all irritants, such as harsh winds, +dust, smoke, a scorching sun, and fire heat; a strict attention to +diet, regular ablutions, followed by friction, frequent bathing, +and daily exercise, active enough to promote perspiration, which, +by carrying off the vicious secretions, purifies the system, and +perceptibly heightens the brilliancy of the skin. + +These are the simple and rational means pursued by the females of +the east to obtain a smooth and perfect skin, which is there made an +object of great care and consideration. And it is a plan attended, +invariably, with the most complete success. + +Cosmetic baths, composed of milk, combined with various emollient +substances are also in frequent use among the higher classes in the +East; and we have been informed that they are gradually gaining +favour in France and England. We shall give the receipt for one, as we +received it from the confidential attendant of an English lady, who is +in the habit of using it every week, and we can confidently recommend +it to the notice of our readers. + +The luxurious ladies of ancient Rome, who sacrificed so much time and +attention to the adornment of their persons, always superintended the +preparation of their cosmetics, which were of the most innocent and +simple description--the first receipt we subjoin was one in general +use with them, and will be found efficacious in removing roughness, +or coarseness, arising from accidental causes, and imparting that +polished smoothness so essential to beauty. + + * * * * * + +AN OLD ROMAN RECEIPT FOR IMPROVING THE SKIN. + +Boil a dessert spoonful of the best wheaten flour with half a pint of +fresh asses milk; when boiling, stir in a table-spoonful of the best +honey, and a tea-spoonful of rose water, then mix smoothly, place in +small pots, and use a little of it after washing; it is better not to +make much at a time, as when stale it is liable to irritate the skin. + + * * * * * + +A VALUABLE RECEIPT FOR THE SKIN. + +Boil in half a pint of new milk a thick slice of stale bread, and a +tea-spoonful of gum arabic; when boiled, set it at a little distance +from the fire to simmer almost to a jelly, then pass it through a +folded muslin, and stir in a spoonful of oil of almonds, and the same +quantity of honey, with a pinch of common salt; when cold it will be a +stiff jelly. A little of this mixture warmed and spread upon the skin, +about the thickness of a crown piece, and left on till it cools, will +remove, like magic, all appearance of the dry scurf to which some of +the finest skins are subject. + + * * * * * + +AN EMOLLIENT PASTE. + +Blanch half a pound of sweet almonds, and two ounces of bitter +almonds, and pound them in a mortar, then make them into a paste with +rose water; this paste is a fine emollient. + + * * * * * + +A SUPERIOR OINTMENT FOR CHAPS, ROUGHNESS, ETC. + +Mix with a gill of fresh cream a spoonful of beaten almonds; when +perfectly smooth put it in toilette pots, and use as ointment for +chaps, &c.; it will keep for a week if a little spirit of camphor is +added to it. + + * * * * * + +WASH FOR PIMPLES. + +Dissolve half a dram of salt of tartar in three ounces of spirit +of wine, and apply with soft linen; this is an excellent wash for +pimples, but, as these are in general the result of some derangement +of the system, it will be wiser to discover and remedy the cause, than +merely attending to the result. + + * * * * * + +LOTION FOR REMOVING FRECKLES. + +Mix one dram of spirit of salts, half a pint of rain water, and half +a tea-spoonful of spirit of lavender, and bottle for use. This lotion +will often be efficacious in removing freckles. + + * * * * * + +COLD CREAM. + +Warm gently together four ounces of oil of almonds, and one ounce of +white wax, gradually adding four ounces of rose water; this is one of +the best receipts for making cold cream. + + * * * * * + +A FINE SOAP. + +Blanch and beat to a paste two ounces of bitter almonds, with a small +piece of camphor, and one ounce and a half of tincture of Benjamin; +add one pound of curd soap in shavings, and beat and melt well +together, and pour into moulds to get cool; the above is a very fine +soap. + + * * * * * + +LIP SALVE. + +Mix together one ounce of white wax, the same of beef marrow, with a +small piece of alkanet root tied up in muslin; perfume it according +to fancy, strain, and pot while hot; the above is a fine salve for +chapped lips. + + * * * * * + +CHESNUT PASTE FOR RENDERING THE HANDS WHITE AND SOFT. + +Boil a dozen fine large chesnuts, peeled and skinned, in milk; when +soft beat them till perfectly smooth with rose water; a tea-spoonful +of this mixture thrown into the water before washing the hands renders +them beautifully white and soft. + + * * * * * + +SUPERIOR MILK OF ROSES. + +Boil fresh rose leaves in asses milk, and bottle it off for immediate +use; it will be found far more efficacious than the milk of roses sold +by perfumers. + + * * * * * + +AN EXCELLENT RECEIPT FOR LIP SALVE. + +Melt one ounce of spermacetti, soften sufficiently with oil of +almonds, color it with two or three grains of powdered cochineal, and +pour while warm into small toilet pots. We mention the cochineal to +colour the salve, it being usual to make lip salve of a pale rose +colour, but we should consider it far more healing in its effects +without it. + + * * * * * + +A COSMETIC BATH. + +Boil slowly one pound of starwort in two quarts of water, with half a +pound of linseed, six ounces of the roots of the water lily, and one +pound of bean meal; when these have boiled for two hours, strain the +liquor, and add to it two quarts of milk, one pint of rose water, and +a wine glass of spirits of camphor; stir this mixture into a bath of +about ninety-eight degrees. + + * * * * * + +SUPERIOR COLD CREAM. + +Melt together one drachm of spermacetti, the same quantity of white +wax, and two fluid ounces of oil of almond; while these are still +warm, beat up with them as much rose water as they will absorb. This +is a very healing kind of cold cream. The usual cold cream sold by +perfumers is nothing more than lard, beat up with rose-water, which is +heating and irritating to the skin. + + * * * * * + +PASTE FOR RENDERING THE SKIN SUPPLE AND SMOOTH (AN ENGLISH RECEIPT). + +Mix half a pound of mutton or goose fat well boiled down and beaten up +well with two eggs, previously whisked with a glass of rose-water; add +a table-spoonful of honey, and as much oatmeal as will make it into a +paste. Constant use of this paste will keep the skin delicately soft +and smooth. + + * * * * * + +TO REMOVE TAN. + +Cut a cucumber into pieces after having peeled it, and let the juice +drain from it for twelve hours, pour it off, and add to it an equal +quantity of orange flower-water, with a small piece of camphor +dissolved in a wine-glass of soft water, bottle the mixture, and wash +the parts that have been exposed to the sun two or three times in the +twenty-four hours. + + * * * * * + +EAU DE COLOGNE. + +Mix together one ounce of essence of bergamot, the same quantity of +essence of lemon, lavender, and orange flower-water, two ounces of +rosemary and honey-water, with one pint of spirits of wine; let the +mixture stand a fortnight, after which put it into a glass retort, the +body of which immerse in boiling water contained in a vessel placed +over a lamp (a coffee lamp will answer the purpose), while the beak of +the retort is introduced into a large decanter; keep the water boiling +while the mixture distils into the decanter, which should be covered +with cold wet cloths, in this manner excellent Eau de Cologne may be +obtained at a very small expense. + + * * * * * + +TRANSPARENT SOAP. + +Put into a bottle, windsor soap in shavings, half fill it with spirits +of wine, set it near the fire till the soap is dissolved, when, pour +it into moulds to cool. + + * * * * * + +MILK OF ROSES. + +Put into a bottle one pint of rose-water, one ounce of oil of almonds; +shake well together, then add fifty drops of oil of tartar. + + * * * * * + +HUNGARY WATER. + +Put into a bottle one pint of spirits of wine, one gill of water, and +half an ounce of oil of rosemary; shake well together. + + * * * * * + +LAVENDER WATER. + +Take three drachms of English oil of lavender, spirits of wine +one pint; shake in a quart bottle, then add one ounce of orange +flower-water, one ounce of rose-water, and four ounces of distilled +water; those who approve of the musky odour which lavender water +sometimes has, may add three drachms of essence of ambergris or musk. + + * * * * * + +ESSENCE OF ROSES. + +Put into a bottle the petals of the common rose, and pour upon them +spirits of wine, cork the bottle closely, and let it stand for three +months, it will then be little inferior to otto of roses. + + * * * * * + +ESSENCE OF LAVENDER. + +Is prepared according to the above recipe, the lavender being +substituted for the roses. + + * * * * * + +SCENT BAGS. + +Small bags filled with iris root diffuses a delicate perfume over +drawers, &c. A good receipt for a scent-bag is as follows: two pounds +of roses, half a pound of cyprus powder, and half a drachm of essence +of roses; the roses must be pounded, and with the powder put into silk +bags, the essence may be dropped on the outside. + + * * * * * + +ESSENCE OF MUSK. + +Mix one dram of musk with the same quantity of pounded loaf sugar; add +six ounces of spirits of wine; shake together and pour off for use. + + * * * * * + +OIL OF ROSES. + +A few drops of otto of roses dissolved in spirits of wine forms the +_esprit de rose_ of the perfumers--the same quantity dropped in sweet +oil forms their _huile antique a la rose_. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + + +The Hair. + +All stimulating lotions are injurious to the hair; it should be cut +every two months: to clean it, there is nothing better than an egg +beaten up to a froth, to be rubbed in the hair, and afterwards washed +off with elder flower-water; but clear soft water answers every +purpose of cleanliness, and is far better for the hair than is usually +imagined. + +One tea-spoonful of honey, one of spirits of wine, one of rosemary, +mixed in half a pint of rose-water, or elder flower-water, and the +same quantity of soft water, forms an excellent lotion for keeping the +hair clean and glossy. + +A fine pomatum is made by melting down equal quantities of mutton suet +and marrow, uncooked, and adding a little sweet oil to make it of a +proper consistency, to which any perfume may be added. If essence of +rosemary is the perfume used, it will be found to promote the growth +of the hair. Rum and oil of almonds will be of use for the same +purpose. A warm cloth to rub the hair after brushing imparts a fine +shiny smoothness. + +As a bandoline to make the hair set close, the following will be found +useful and cheap: take a cupful of linseed, pour over it sufficient +boiling water to over, let it stand some hours, and then pour over +three table spoonsful of rose-water; stir the seeds well about, and +strain it off into a bottle and it will be ready for use; or take a +tea-spoonful of gum arabic with a little Irish moss, boil them in half +a pint of water till half is boiled away; strain and perfume. + +To remove superfluous hairs, the following receipt will be found +effectual, although requiring time and perseverance: mix one ounce of +finely powdered pumice-stone with one ounce of powdered quick-lime, +and rub the mixture on the part from which the hair is to be removed, +twice in twenty-four hours; this will destroy the hair, and is an +innocent application. In the East, a depilatory is in use, which +we subjoin, but which requires great care in employing, as the +ingredients are likely to injure the skin if applied too frequently, +or suffered to remain on too long: mix with one ounce of quick-lime, +one ounce of orpiment; put the powder in a bottle with a glass +stopper; when required for use, mix it into a paste with barley-water; +apply this over the part, and let it remain some minutes, then gently +take it off with a silver knife, and the hairs will be found perfectly +removed; the part should then be fomented to prevent any of the powder +being absorbed by the skin, and a little sweet oil or cold cream +should be wiped over the surface with a feather. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + + +Teeth. + +Water is not always sufficient to clean the teeth, but great caution +should be used as to the dentifrices employed. + +Charcoal, reduced to an impalpable powder, and mixed with an equal +quantity of magnesia, renders the teeth white, and stops putrefaction. + +Also two ounces of prepared chalk, mixed with half the quantity of +powdered myrrh, may be used with confidence. + +Or, one ounce of finely powdered charcoal, one ounce of red kino, and +a table spoonful of the leaves of sage, dried and powdered. + +A most excellent dentifrice, which cleans and preserves the teeth, +is made by mixing together two ounces of brown rappee snuff, one of +powder of bark, and one ounce and a half of powder of myrrh. When the +gums are inclined to shrink from the teeth, cold water should be used +frequently to rinse the mouth; a little alum, dissolved in a pint of +water, a tea-cup full of sherry wine, and a little tincture of myrrh +or bark, will be found extremely beneficial in restoring the gums to a +firm and healthy state. This receipt was given verbally by one of our +first dentists. + +Every precaution should be used to prevent the accumulation of +tartar upon the teeth; this is best done by a regular attention to +cleanliness, especially during and after illness. "Prevention is +always better than cure," and the operation of scaling often leaves +the teeth weak and liable to decay. + +Acids of all sorts are injurious to the teeth, and very hot or cold +liquids discolour them. + +The best toothpick is a finely-pointed stick of cedar. Toothbrushes +should not be too hard, and should be used, not only to the teeth, +but to the gums, as friction is highly salutary to them. To polish the +front teeth, it is better to use a piece of flannel than a brush. + +Toothache is a very painful malady, and the sufferer often flies +to the most powerful spirits to obtain relief; but they afford only +temporary ease, and lay the foundation for increased pain. A poultice +laid on the gum not too hot takes off inflammation, or laudanum +and spirits of camphor applied to the cheek externally; or mix with +spirits of camphor an equal quantity of myrrh, dilute it with warm +water, and hold it in the mouth; also a few drops of laudanum and oil +of cloves applied to decayed teeth often affords instantaneous relief. + +Powdered cloves and powdered alum, rubbed on the gum and put in the +diseased tooth will sometimes lessen the pain. + +Toothache often proceeds from some irritation in the digestive organs +or the nervous system: in such cases pain can only be removed by +proper medical treatment. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + + +Hands. + +Nothing contributes more to the elegance and refinement of a lady's +appearance than delicate hands; and it is surprising how much it is +in the power of all, by proper care and attention, to improve +them. Gloves should be worn at every opportunity, and these should +invariably be of kid; silk gloves and mittens, although pretty and +tasteful, are far from fulfilling the same object. The hands should +be regularly washed in tepid water, as cold water hardens, and renders +them liable to chap, while hot water wrinkles them. All stains of ink, +&c., should be immediately removed with lemon-juice and salt: every +lady should have a bottle of this mixture on her toilette ready +prepared for the purpose. The receipts which we have already given +as emollients for the skin are suitable for softening the hands and +rendering them smooth and delicate. The nails require daily attention: +they should be cut every two or three days in an oval form. A piece of +flannel is better than a nail-brush to clean them with, as it does not +separate the nail from the finger. + +When dried, a little pummice-stone, finely powdered, with powdered +orris-root, in the proportion of a quarter of a tea-spoonful to a +tea-spoonful of the former, mixed together, and rubbed on the nails +gently, gives them a fine polish, and removes all inequalities. + +A piece of sponge, dipped in oil of roses and emery, may be used for +the same purpose. + +When the nails are disposed to break, a little oil or cold cream +should be applied at night. + +Sand-balls are excellent for removing hardness of the hands. Palm +soap, Castille soap, and those which are the least perfumed, should +always be preferred. Night-gloves are considered to make the hands +white and soft, but they are attended with inconvenience, besides +being very unwholesome; and the hands may be rendered as white as the +nature of the complexion will allow, by constantly wearing gloves in +the day-time, and using any of the emollients we have recommended for +softening and improving the skin. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + + +Dress. + +In dress, simplicity should be preferred to magnificence: it is +surely more gratifying to be admired for a refined taste, than for an +elaborate and dazzling splendour;--the former always produces pleasing +impressions, while the latter generally only provokes criticism. + +Too costly an attire forms a sort of fortification around a woman +which wards off the admiration she might otherwise attract. The true +art of dress is to make it harmonize so perfectly with the style +of countenance and figure as to identify it, as it were, with the +character of the wearer. + +All ornaments and trimmings should be adopted sparingly; trinkets and +jewellery should seldom appear to be worn merely for display; they +should be so selected and arranged as to seem necessary, either for +the proper adjustment of some part of the dress, or worn for the sake +of pleasing associations. + +Fashion should never be followed too closely, still less should +a singularity of style be affected; the prevailing mode should be +modified and adapted to suit individual peculiarity. The different +effect of colours and the various forms of dress should be duly +considered by every lady, as a refined taste in dress indicates a +correct judgment. + +A short stout figure should avoid the loose flowing robes and ample +drapery suitable for tall slight women; while these again should +be cautious of adopting fashions which compress the figure, give +formality, or display angles. The close-fitting corsage and tight +sleeve, becoming to the short, plump female, should be modified with +simple trimmings, to give fullness and width across the shoulders and +bust, and a rounded contour to the arms. Flounces and tucks, which +rise high in the skirt, are not suitable to short persons; they cut +the figure and destroy symetry. To tall women, on the contrary, +they add grace and dignity. Dresses made half high are extremely +unbecoming; they should either be cut close up to the throat or low. +It is, however, in bad taste to wear them very low on the shoulders +and bosom: in youth, it gives evidence of the absence of that modesty +which is one of its greatest attractions; and in maturer years it is +the indication of a depraved coquetry, which checks the admiration it +invites. + +It is always requisite for a lady to exert her own taste in the choice +of form, colour, and style, and not leave it to the fancy of her +dress-maker, as although the person she employs may be eminently +qualified for her profession, a lady who possesses any discernment can +best judge of what is suitable to her style of countenance and figure. + +In dress there should be but one prevailing colour, to which all +others should be adapted, either by harmonising with it, or by +contrast; in the latter case the relieving color should be in small +quantity, or it would overpower the other in effect, as a general +rule, sombre negative colours show off a woman to the greatest +advantage, just as the beauties of a painting are enhanced by being +set in a dull frame; still, there are some occasions with which the +gayer tints accord better, and as propriety and fitness are matters of +high consideration, the woman of taste must be guided in the selection +of her apparel by the knowledge of the purport for which it is +intended, always endeavouring to fix on that shade of colour which +best becomes her complexion. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + + +Effect of Diet on Complexion. + +As the color of the skin depends upon the secretions of the _rete +mucuosum_, or skin, which lies immediately beneath the _epedirmis_, or +scarf skin, and as diet is capable of greatly influencing the nature +of these secretions, a few words respecting it may not be here +entirely misplaced. + +All that is likely to produce acrid humours, and an inflamatory or +impoverished state of the blood, engenders vicious secretions, which +nature struggles to free herself from by the natural outlet of the +skin, for this organ is fitted equally, to _excrete and secrete_. +Fermented and spirituous liquors, strong tea and coffee should +be avoided, for they stimulate and exhaust the vital organs, and +interrupt the digestive functions, thereby producing irritation of +the internal linings of the stomach, with which the skin sympathises. +Water, on the other hand, is the most wholesome of all beverages, it +dilutes and corrects what is taken into the stomach, and contributes +to the formation of a perfect chyle. + +Milk is very nutritious, it produces a full habit of body, and +promotes plumpness, restores vigour and freshness, besides possessing +the property of calming the passions, and equalising the temper. + +Eggs are, in general, considered bilious, except in a raw state, when +they are precisely the reverse; this is a fact, now so universally +acknowledged, that they are always recommended in cases of jaundice +and other disorders of the bile. + +Spices, and highly seasoned meats import a dryness to the skin, and +render the body thin and meagre. + +Animal food taken daily requires constant exercise, or it is apt to +render the appearance coarse and gross. It should be combined with +farinaceous and vegetable food, in order to correct the heating +effects of a concentrated animal diet. + +Excess as to quantity should be strictly guarded against. When the +stomach is overloaded it distributes a badly digested mass throughout +the system, which is sure to be followed by irritation and disease, +and by undermining the constitution, is one of the most certain +methods of destroying beauty. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + + +Influence of the Mind as regards Beauty. + +All passions give their corresponding expression to the countenance; +if of frequent occurrence they mark it with lines as indelible as +those of age, and far more unbecoming. To keep these under proper +_control_ is, therefore, of high importance to beauty. Nature has +ordained that passions shall be but passing acts of the mind, which, +serving as natural stimulants, quicken the circulation of the blood, +and increase the vital energies; consequently, when tempered and +subdued by reason, they are rather conducive than otherwise, both to +beauty and to health. + +It is the _habitual frame of mind, the hourly range of thought_ which +render the countenance pleasing or repulsive; we should not forget +that "the face is the index of the mind." + +The exercise of the intellect and the development of noble sentiments +is as essential for the perfection of the one, as of the other, +fretful, envious, malicious, ill humoured feelings must never be +indulged by those who value their personal appearance, for the +existence of these chronic maladies of the mind, _cannot be +concealed_. + +"On peut tromper un autre, mais pas tous les autres." + +In the same way candour, benevolence, pity, and good temper, exert the +most happy influence over the whole person;--shine forth in every +look and every movement with a fascination which wins its way to all +hearts. + +Symmetry of form is a rare and exquisite gift, but there are other +conditions quite as indispensable to beauty. Let a woman possess but +a very moderate share of personal charms, if her countenance is +expressive of intellect and kind feelings, her figure buoyant with +health, and her attire distinguished by a tasteful simplicity, she +cannot fail to be eminently attractive, while ill health--a silly or +unamiable expression, and a vulgar taste--will mar the effect of form +and features the most symetrical. A clever writer has said, "Beauty +is but another name for that expression of the countenance which is +indicative of sound health, intelligence, and good feeling." If +so, how much of beauty is attainable to all! Health, though often +dependant upon circumstances beyond our control, can, in a great +measure, be improved by a rational observance of the laws which nature +has prescribed, to regulate the vital functions. + +Over intellect we have still more power. It is capable of being so +trained as to approach daily nearer and nearer to perfection. The +thoughts are completely under our own guidance and must never be +allowed to wander idly or sinfully; they should be encouraged to +dwell on subjects which elevate the mind and shield it from the petty +trivialities which irritate and degrade it. + +Nothing is more likely to engender bitter thoughts than idleness and +_ennui_. Occupations should be selected with a view to improve and +amuse; they should be varied, to prevent the lassitude resulting from +monotony; serious meditations and abstract studies should be relieved +by the lighter branches of literature; music should be assiduously +cultivated; nothing more refines and exalts the mind; not the mere +performance of mechanical difficulties, either vocal or instrumental, +for these, unless pursued with extreme caution, enlarge the hand and +fatigue the chest, without imparting the advantages we allude to. + +Drawing is highly calculated to enhance feminine beauty; the thoughts +it excites are soothing and serene, the gentle enthusiasm that is felt +during this delightful occupation not only dissipates melancholy +and morbid sensibility, but by developing the judgment and feeling, +imparts a higher tone of character to the expression of the +countenance. + +Indolent persons are apt to decide that they have "no taste" for such +or such pursuits, forgetting that tastes may be acquired by the mind +as well as by the palate, and only need a judicious direction. + +Frivolous employment, and vitiated sentiments would spoil the +finest face ever created. Body and mind are, in fact, so intimately +connected, that it is futile, attempting to embellish the one, while +neglecting the other, especially as the highest order of all beauty +is _the intellectual._ Let those females, therefore, who are the +most solicitous about their beauty, and the most eager to produce +a favourable impression, cultivate the _moral, religious, and +intellectual attributes_, and in this advice consists the recipe for +the finest cosmetic in the world, viz.--CONTENT. + + + + +INDEX. + +Almondegos soup, 11. +Almond pudding, 117. + rice, 126. + paste, 127. + tea-cakes, 152. +Amnastich, 83. +Apple charlotte, 139, 140. + jelly, 166. + sauce, 23. +Apricot jam, 165. + preserve, 164. + marmalade, 163. +Arrowroot pudding, 136. +Asparagus sauce, 28. + soup, 12. + +Barley milk, 178. + jelly, 177. + soup, 14. +Batter pudding, 135. +Beans, French, to stew with oil, 93. + _au beurre_, 96. + to pickle, 170. +Béchamel, 32. +Beef, rump, to stew, 53. + à la mode, or sour meat, 53, 54. + of, an olio, 52. +Beef, stewed with French beans, 54. + with white dried peas and beans, and celery, 56. + collops, 57. + cold roast, to warm, 57. + steak, with chesnuts, 58. + steak, stewed simply, 58. + hash of, 57. + brisket of, with vegetables, 59, 60. + brisket, with onions and raisins, 59. + tea, 171. + ragout of, 60. + steak pie, 188. + to salt, 61. + to spice, 61. + to smoke, 62. + _Blanc_, 51. +Blanching, directions for, 57. +Blancmange, 147. +Blanquette of veal, 70, 71. + of chicken, 71. +Boiling, rules for, 49. +Bola d'Amor, 114. + Toliedo, 115, 116. + d'Hispaniola, 116. +Bola, plain, 152. + small do. 152. +Bottling fruit, rules for, 161. +Braising, directions for, 52. +Brandy cherries, 162. +Bread crumbs for frying, 36. + and butter pudding, 130. + fruit-tart, 128. + pudding, 135. + sauce, 22. +Brocali, stewed, 93. +Broiling, directions on, 50. +Broth, chicken, 176. +Browned bread crumbs, 30. + flour, for colouring and thickening soups, sauces, and gravies, 30. +Butter cakes, 156. + melted, 25. + oiled, 24. + +Cabbage and rice stewed, 94. + red, stewed, 96. + to pickle, 172. +Cakes, observations respecting, 113, 114. + almond tea, 152. + rich plum, 153, 154. + siesta, 151. + sponge, 158. + pound, 156. + soda, 155. + diet bread, 154. + for Passover, 158. + a bola, 152. + a very plain, 155. + a plain lunch, without butter, 156. + breakfast, 159. + drop, 154. + cinnamon, 153. + butter, 156. + short, 156. + _matso_, 157. + icing for, 159. +Calf's head to stew, 64. + feet, stewed with Spanish sauce, 64. + au fritur, 65. + stewed simply, 65, 66. + jelly, 145. +Caper sauce, 27, 19. +Carrots, _au beurre_, 95. +Carp, stewed, 41, 42. +Cassereet, a, 81. +Casserole au riz, 101. +Caudle, 178. + rice, 178. +Cauliflower, to pickle, 170. +Celery, stewed with mutton, 75 +Celery sauce, 19. +Charlotte Russe, 189. + a fruit, 190. + apple, 139. +Chestnuts, stewed with steaks, 58. + to roast, 185. +Cheesecakes, 108. + savoury, 98. +Cherry batter pudding, 131. + preserved whole, 165. +Chejados, 119. +Chicken broth, 176. + pudding, 188. + panado, 175. +Chocolate, to make, 182. +Chorissa, 62. + omelette, 109. + stewed with rice and fowl, 83. +Cinnamon cakes, 153. +Citron pudding, 150. +Clarify to, suet, 52. + sugar, 160. +Cocoa nut pudding, 120. + doce, 120. +Coffee, French method of making, 120. +Collard veal, 67. +Collops, beef, 57. +College pudding, 131. +Colouring for soups and sauces, 2, 3, 30, 31. +Commeen, 55. +Consommé, 1, 2, 3. +Cooling, drink a, in fever, 94. +Creams, directions for making, 143, 189. +Crême brun, 128. +Cressy soup, 7. +Croquettes, 100. +Cucumbers, to pickle, 173. + sauce, 29. + mango, 94. +Cumberland pudding, 131. +Currant jelly, 165, 166. + jam, 165. +Curried veal, 68. + chicken, 68. +Custard pudding, 135. +Custards, 144. +Cutlets, veal, 68. + à la Française, 69. + in white sauce, 69. + in brown sauce, 70. + mutton, 78, 79. + lamb, with cucumbers, 81. + +Damson marmalade, 163. +Descaides, 89. +Devilled biscuits, 98. +Diet bread cake, 154. + for Passover, 158. +Doce, cocoa nut, 120. +Drink for a cough, 180. + an emollient, 181. + a cooling, in fever, 181. + a refreshing, 181. +Drop cakes, 154. +Duck stewed with peas, 85. + seasoning for, 27. +Dutch, stew of fish, 40. +Dutch toast, 87. + +Edgings of Potatoes, 91. + of rice, 91. +Egg paste, 105. + wine, 183. + balls, 36. + marmalade, 121. + sauce, 18. + English, do., 28. +Eggs, scallopped, 98. + savoury, 98. + _See_ omelette. +Escobeche, 34. + +Farcie, _see_ forcemeat. +Fish, directions for boiling and broiling, 37. + fried in oil, 38. + in butter, 39. + a soup, 15. + sauce without butter, 21. + sauce to bottle, 22. + stewed white, 39, + brown, 41. + stewed in Dutch fashion, 40. + salad, 44, 40. + fritters, 47. + omelette, 47. + scallopped, 58. + baked haddocks, 43. + herrings, 43, 44. + mackarel, 44. + escobeche, 34. + stewed carp, 41, 42. + of, fillets, 42. + water souchy, 41. + impanado, 55. + white bait, 45, 46. + fricandelle, 46. +Fondeaux, 102. +Fondu, 102. +Forcemeat, directions for making, 33. + for risoles, fritters, balls, &c., 33, 34. + of fish for croquettes, &c., 35. + for dressing fish fillets, 35. + for dressing cutlets, 35, 36. +Fowls, a savoury way of roasting, 82. + forced and boned, 82. + boiled, 83. + blanquette of, 85. + curried, 84. + stewed with rice, 83. + a nice way of dressing with sweetbread, 84. + broiled with mushrooms, 86. +Fricandelle, Dutch, 46. +Fricandelles, 72. +Fricandeux, a, white, 62. + brown,63. + a, superior receipt, 67. +Fricassee of veal, 63. + of sweetbreads, 74. +Fritters of rice, 125. + of French roll, 123. +Fruit pies, 106. +Frying, directions for, 50. + +Gateau de tours, 138. + de pomme, 139. +Geese, seasoning for, 27. +German puffs, 117. +Gherkins, to pickle, 170. +Giblet soup, 14. + stewed, 86. + pie, 108. +Glazing, directions for, 51. +Gloucester jelly, 177. +Gooseberry jam, 165. +Gravy soup, 3. +Gravy, a rich brown, 17. + for roast fowls, 18. + another for ditto, 18. + ditto, when there is no meat to make it with, 20. + to draw strong, 24. +Green, colouring for soups, &c., 31. +Grimstich, 122. +Grosvenor pudding, 149. + +Haddocks, to roast or bake, 33. +Haman's fritters, 123. +Harricot, a, 76. +Hartshorn jelly, 176. +Hash a, to make, 57. +Herbs, savoury, for seasoning soups, &c., 27. +Herrings smoked, a nice way of dressing, 43. + +Iced pudding, 190. +Iceing for cakes, 159. +Impanado, 45. +Irish stew, 77. + moss, 180. +Italian salad, 191. +Italian cream, 143. + +Jams, to make, 165. +Jaumange, 138. +Jerusalem artichokes, 96. +Jelly, savoury, 20. +Jellies, calf's-feet, 145. + orange, 146. + lemon, 146. + hartshorn, 176. +Jellies, Gloucester, 177. + punch, 146. + bread, 177. + noyeau, 146. + apple, 166. + barley, 177. + currant, 165. +Juditha, a, 148. +Julienne, soup à la, 5. + +Kimmel meat, 54. +Kugel and commeen, 55. + +Lamb, stewed with sprew, 79. + with peas, 80. + cutlets and cucumbers, 80, 81. + shoulder of, a nice receipt for, 81. +Lamplich, 124. +Larding, 51. +Lemon tarts, 126. + jelly, 146. +Luction, 118. + +Maccaroni with cheese, 99. + pudding, 136. +Mackarel, baked, 44. +Macrotes, 121. +Malagatany soup, 4. + English do. 5. +Maigre soup, 12. +Maintenont cutlets, 76. +Marmalades, 163. +Melon mango, 171. +Milk, barley, 179. + porridge, 178. + restorative, 179. +Mince meat, 121. + pies, 110. +Minced veal, 71. +Miroton, a, 71, 72. +Mint sauce, 23. +Mock turtle soup, 3. +Melina pie, 109. +Matso cakes, 157. + fried, 157. + diet bread, 158. +Mushrooms _au naturel_, 96. + large flap, 97. + to pickle, 172. + sauce, 25. +Mutton, a French receipt for roasting, 75. + stewed with celery, 75. + a simple way of dressing, 76. + cutlets maintenant, 76. + a haricot, 76. + Irish stew, 77. + a l'Hispaniola, 77. + collops, 77, 78. + cutlets, 78, 79. + smoked, 79. + +Nouilles paste, 105. +Noyeau cream, 143. + jelly, 146. + +Oil twist, 153. +Olio, 52. +Omelet sweet, 142. + souflé, 142. + savoury, 99. + chorissa, 109. +Onion sauce, 23. + to pickle, 172. +Orange jelly, 146. +Orgeat, 180. +Ox-tail soup, 16. + +Palestine soup, 8. + salad, 99. +Pancakes, 129. + for children, 129. +Parsley crisped, 30. +Parsley fried, 31. +Partridges, 185. +Passover pudding, 133. + ditto, 133. + ditto, 133. + fritters, 134. + a superior kind, 134. + ditto with currants, 134. + balls for soup, 9,10. + diet bread, 158. + cakes, 157. +Pastry, directions for making, 103. + plain puff paste, 104. + rich, ditto, 105. + short crust, 105. + nouilles or egg paste, 105. + beef dripping paste, 106. + glaize for, 106. +Patty meats, 110. +Peas-soup, summer, 13, 14. + winter, 13. + stewed with oil, 93. +Pears to stew, 150 + to bake, 151. + syrup of, 160. +Pepper pot, 6. +Pheasants, to roast, 185. +Piccalili, 171. +Pickling, rules for, 169. +Pie a fruit, 106. + giblet, 108. + a savoury, 107 + a ditto for persons of delicate digestion, 88. + a beef steak, 188. + a French plum, 185. + salmon, 187. +Pigeons, 86. +Pippins, stewed, 151, +Piqué, _see_ larding. +Plum cake, 153. + jam, 167. + pudding, 132. + _Poelée_, 51. +Pommes frites, 13. +Porridge, 179. +Potatoes, to mash, 91. + balls, 91. + wall, 91, 92. + shavings, 92. + soup of, 7. +Poultry cold, to warm, 85. +Pound cake, 156. +Prenesas, 118. +Preparation for cutlets, 36. +Preserving, observations on, 161. +Puddings, directions for, 112. + plum, 132. + millet, arrowroot, ground rice, tapioca, sago, 136. + Passover for, 133. + iced, 190. + almond, 117. + cocoa nut, 120. + citron, 150. + Grosvenor, 149. + Yorkshire, 136. + suet, 137. + bread, 135. + rice, 130. + custard, 135. + batter, 135. + cherry batter, 131. + ratafia, 132. + college, 131. + Cumberland, 131. + rich bread and butter, 130. +Punch, 183. + jelly, 144. + whiskey, 184. + milk, 184. +_Pureé_ of vegetables, 96. + +Quince marmalade, 163. + +Rachael, a, 118. +Ragout of beef, 60. +Ramakins, 100. +Raspberries preserved whole, 165. + jam, 165. + jelly, 166. +Ratafia pudding, 132. +Restorative milk, 176. + jelly, 179. +Rice fritters, 125. + pudding for children, 130. + fruit tart, 127. + souflé, 143. + custard, 128. + caudle, 178. + wall, 91. +Risoles, 33, 34, 100. +Roasting, rules for, 50. +Rump of beef stewed, 53. +Russe, a charlotte, 139. + +Salmon cutlets, 42. + pie, 187. +Sauces, piquante, 17. + egg, 18. + English, do., 28. + celery, 19. + tomato, 19. + for steaks, 21. + without butter for fish, 21. + for fish to keep, 22. + to serve with ducks, 22. + oiled butter, 24. + bread, 22. + apple, 23. + onions, 23. + melted butter, 25. + mushroom, 24. + white, to throw over vegetables, 26. + for puddings without butter, 26. + Robert, 26. + caper, 27, 19. + à la Tartare, 28. + for roast mutton, 28. + asparagus, 28. + cucumber, white, 29. + brown, 29. + velouté, 31. + béchamel, 32. +Sauer krout, 56. +Savoury jelly, 20. + herb powder, 27. +Seasoning for poultry, 27. +Siesta, a, 151. +Soda cake, 155. +Sopa d'ora, 119. +Souflè, 140, 141. + omelette, 142. + rice, 143. +Soups, almondegos, a superior white soup, 11. + asparagus, 12. + cressy, 7. + malagatany, 4. + English do., 5. + gravy, 3. + barley, 14. + carrot, 8. + giblet, 14. + Julienne, 5. + mock turtle, 3. + matso, 9. + Palestine, 8. + de poisson, or fish, 15. + ox tail, 16. + peas, summer, 13. + winter, 14. + potatoe, 7. + à la turque, 6. + vermicelli, 9. + white, a, 9. + tomato, 10. + vegetable, or French, 11. +Spanish beans and peas, 29. +Spinach à la Française, 92. +Sponge cakes, 158. +Spring dish, a, 95. +Staffin, 125. +Steak stewed with chestnuts, 58. + stewed simply, 58. +Stewing, rules for, 50. +Stock--see _consommé_. +Strawberries preserved whole, 164. + jam, 165. + jelly, 166. +Suet to clarify, 52. +Sugar to clarify, 160. +Sweetbreads roasted, 73. + stewed white, 73. + brown, 74. + fricasseed, 73. + +Tart de moy, 122. +Tartlets, 107. +Tendons of veal, 66. +Thickening for soups and sauces, 2. +Timbale of maccaroni, 87. +Tomato soup, 10. + sauce, 17. + dry soup, a, 97. +Tourte à la creme, 149. +Trifle, an easy one, 137. + a still more simple and quickly made, 147. +Truffle sauce, 20. +Turke soup, à la, 6. +Turkey boned and forced, 82. + +Veal, a white fricandeaux of, 62. + brown, do. 63. + tendons of, 66. + fricandeaux, 67. + collard, 67. + curried, 68. + cutlets, 68, 69. 70. + blanquette of, 70. + minced, 71. + stuffing, 34. + miroton of, 71, 72. + smoked, 73. +Vegetable or French soup, 11. + observations on, 90. +Velouté, 31. +Venison to roast, 186. + a pasty, 186. +Vermicelli pudding, 136. + soup, 9. +Vol-au-vent, 109. + de fruit, 110. + petits, 110. + +Waflers, 126. +Walnuts, to pickle, 173. +Water souchy, 41. +Whey wine, 179. + tamarind, 179. + plain, 180. +White bait, 45, 46. +White soup, 9. + superior, do., 11. +Wine, mulled, 183. + egg, 183. + +Yorkshire pudding, 138. + + + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's The Jewish Manual, by Judith Cohen Montefiore + +*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 12327 *** diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The Jewish Manual + Practical Information In Jewish And Modern Cookery With a Collection + of Valuable Recipes & Hints Relating to the Toilette + + +Author: Judith Cohen Montefiore + +Release Date: May 11, 2004 [EBook #12327] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE JEWISH MANUAL *** + + + + +Produced by David Starner, Jonathan Chaney and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team. + + + + + + +The Jewish Manual; + +OR + +Practical Information in Jewish And Modern Cookery, + +With a Collection of Valuable Recipes & Hints Relating to the +Toilette. + + + +Edited by a Lady. + + + +LONDON: 1846. + + + + +EDITOR'S PREFACE. + +Among the numerous works on Culinary Science already in circulation, +there have been none which afford the slightest insight to the Cookery +of the Hebrew kitchen. + +Replete as many of these are with information on various important +points, they are completely valueless to the Jewish housekeeper, not +only on account of prohibited articles and combinations being assumed +to be necessary ingredients of nearly every dish, but from the entire +absence of all the receipts peculiar to the Jewish people. + +This deficiency, which has been so frequently the cause of +inconvenience and complaint, we have endeavoured in the present little +volume to supply. And in taking upon ourselves the responsibility of +introducing it to the notice of our readers, we have been actuated +by the hope that it will prove of some practical utility to those for +whose benefit it is more particularly designed. + +It has been our earnest desire to simplify as much as possible the +directions given regarding the rudiments of the art, and to render the +receipts which follow, clear, easy, and concise. Our collection will +be found to contain all the best receipts, hitherto bequeathed only +by memory or manuscript, from one generation to another of the Jewish +nation, as well as those which come under the denomination of plain +English dishes; and also such French ones as are now in general use at +all refined modern tables. + +A careful attention has been paid to accuracy and economy in the +proportions named, and the receipts may be perfectly depended upon, as +we have had the chief part of them tested in our own kitchen and under +our own _surveillance_. + +All difficult and expensive modes of cookery have been purposely +omitted, as more properly belonging to the province of the +confectioner, and foreign to the intention of this little work; the +object of which is, to guide the young Jewish housekeeper in the +luxury and economy of "The Table," on which so much of the pleasure of +social intercourse depends. + +The various acquirements, which in the present day are deemed +essential to female education, rarely leave much time or inclination +for the humble study of household affairs; and it not unfrequently +happens, that the mistress of a family understands little more +concerning the dinner table over which she presides, than the graceful +arrangement of the flowers which adorn it; thus she is incompetent to +direct her servant, upon whose inferior judgment and taste she is +obliged to depend. She is continually subjected to impositions from +her ignorance of what is required for the dishes she selects, while a +lavish extravagance, or parsimonious monotony betrays her utter +inexperience in all the minute yet indispensible details of elegant +hospitality. + +However, there are happily so many highly accomplished and +intellectual women, whose example proves the compatability of uniting +the cultivation of talents with domestic pursuits, that it would be +superfluous and presumptuous were we here to urge the propriety and +importance of acquiring habits of usefulness and household knowledge, +further than to observe that it is the unfailing attribute of a +superior mind to turn its attention occasionally to the lesser objects +of life, aware how greatly they contribute to its harmony and its +happiness. + +The _Cuisine_ of a woman of refinement, like her dress or her +furniture, is distinguished, not for its costliness and profusion, but +for a pervading air of graceful originality. She is quite sensible +of the regard due to the reigning fashion of the day, but her own +tasteful discrimination is always perceptible. She instinctively +avoids every thing that is hackneyed, vulgar, and common place, +and uniformly succeeds in pleasing by the judicious novelties she +introduces. + +We hope, therefore, that this unpretending little work may not prove +wholly unacceptable, even to those ladies who are not of the Hebrew +persuasion, as it will serve as a sequel to the books on cookery +previously in their possession, and be the medium of presenting them +with numerous receipts for rare and exquisite compositions, which if +uncommemorated by the genius of Vatêl, Ude, or Carême, are delicious +enough not only to gratify the lovers of good cheer generally, but to +merit the unqualified approbation of the most fastidious epicures. + +We ought, perhaps, to apologize for the apparent incongruity of +connecting the "Toilet" with the "Kitchen;" but the receipts and +suggestions comprised in the Second Part of the work before us, +will not, we trust, be considered misplaced in a volume addressed +exclusively to the ladies. + +Many of the receipts are for articles in common use, but which, with +proper directions, are prepared with greater economy and in a superior +manner at home; the others are all original receipts, many of them +extremely ancient, and given to us by a person who can vouch for their +efficacy from personal experience and observation. + +We must now conclude our preliminary remarks, but cannot take leave of +our patient readers without availing ourselves of the opportunity our +editorial capacity affords, to express our hope, that with all its +faults and deficiencies "The Jewish Manual" may prove to them a useful +assistant, and be fortunate enough to meet with their lenient, kind, +and favourable consideration. + + + + +CONTENTS. + + * * * * * + +PART I. + +INTRODUCTION. + + +MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS FOR THE USE OF THE COOK + + * * * * * + +CHAPTER I. SOUPS + +CHAPTER II. SAUCES AND FORCEMEAT + +CHAPTER III. FISH + +CHAPTER IV. MEATS AND POULTRY COOKED IN VARIOUS WAYS + +CHAPTER V. VEGETABLES, OMELETTES, FONDEAUX, CROQUETTES, RISOLES, &C. + +CHAPTER VI. PASTRY + +CHAPTER VII. SWEET DISHES, PUDDINGS, JELLIES, CREAMS, CHARLOTTES, +SOUFLES, GATEAUX, TRIFLES, CUSTARDS, CAKES, &C. + +CHAPTER VIII. PRESERVES AND BOTTLING + +CHAPTER IX. PICKLING + +CHAPTER X. RECEIPTS FOR INVALIDS + +APPENDIX + + +THE TOILETTE. + + * * * * * + +CHAPTER I. THE COMPLEXION, &c., &c. + +CHAPTER II. THE HAIR + +CHAPTER III. THE TEETH + +CHAPTER IV. THE HANDS AND NAILS + +CHAPTER V. DRESS + +CHAPTER VI. EFFECTS OF DIET ON THE COMPLEXION + +CHAPTER VII. INFLUENCE OF THE MIND AS REGARDS BEAUTY + + + + +GLOSSARY. + + +_Aspie_, a term used for savoury jelly, in which cold poultry, meat, +&c., is often served. + +_Bain-Marie_. This is a large pan filled with boiling water, in which +several saucepans can be placed when their contents are required to be +kept hot without boiling--this is a useful article in a kitchen, where +the manner in which sauces are prepared is considered deserving of +attention. + +_Béchamel_, a superior kind of white sauce, used in French cookery. + +_Blanquette_, a kind of fricassee with a white sauce. + +_Bola-d'amour_, a very rich and expensive Spanish confection. + +_Bolas_, a kind of rich cake or pudding. + +_Cassereet_, a sauce prepared from the cassada, a West Indian +plant--it must be used with moderation. + +_Casserole_, a name given to a crust formed of rice baked, and then +filled with mince, fricassee, or fruit. + +_Chorissa_, a sausage peculiar to the Jewish kitchen, of delicate and +_piquante_ flavour. + +_Consommé_, is a term now used for stock--it is a clear strong broth, +forming the basis of all soups, sauces, gravies, &c. + +_Croquettes_ and _Risoles_; preparations of forcemeat, formed into +fancy shapes, and fried. + +_Croutons_, sippets of bread or toast, to garnish hashes, salmis, &c., +are so called. + +_Doce_, a mixture of sugar with almonds _or_ cocoa-nut. + +_Entrées_. These are side-dishes, for the first course, consisting +of cutlets, vol au vents, fricassees, fillets, sweetbreads, salmis, +scallops, &c., &c. + +_Entremets_. These are side-dishes for the second course; they +comprise dressed vegetables, puddings, gateaux, pastries, fritters, +creams, jellies, timbales, &c. + +_Farcie_, a French term for forcemeat; it is a mixture of savoury +ingredients, used for croquettes, balls, &c. Meat is by no means a +necessary ingredient, although the English word might seem to imply +the contrary. + +_Fondeaux_, and Fondus, are savoury kinds of souflés. + +_Fricandeaux_, a term for small well-trimmed pieces of meat, stewed in +various ways. + +_Fricassee_. This is a name used for delicate stews, when the articles +are cut in pieces. + +_Fricandelles_. These are very small fricandeaux, two or three of +which are served on one dish, and they sometimes also are delicate, +but highly-flavoured minces, formed into any approved shapes. + +Flanks are large standing side-dishes. + +_Gateaux_, is a kind of cake or pudding. + +_Hors d'oeuvres._ These are light entrées in the first course; they +are sometimes called _assiettes_ volantes; they are handed during the +first course; they comprise anchovies, fish salads, patties of various +kinds, croquettes, risolles, maccaroni, &c. + +_Maigre_, made without meat. + +_Matso_, Passover cakes. + +_Miroton_, a savoury preparation of veal or poultry, formed in a +mould. + +_Nouilles_, a kind of vermicelli paste. + +_Piqué_, a French term used to express the process of larding. The +French term is a preferable one, as it more clearly indicates what is +meant. + +_Purée_ is a term given to a preparation of meat or vegetables, +reduced to a pulp, and mixed with any kind of sauce, to the +consistency of thick cream. _Purées_ of vegetables are much used in +modern cookery, to serve with cutlets, callops, &c. + +_Ramekin_, a savoury and delicate preparation of cheese, generally +served in fringed paper cases. + +_Releves_, or _Removes_, are top and bottom dishes, which replace the +soup and fish. + +_Salmis_, a hash, only a superior kind, being more delicately +seasoned, and usually made of cold poultry. + +_Souflés_, a term applied to a very light kind of pudding, made +with some farinaceous substance, and generally replaces the roast of a +second course. + +_Timbale_, a shape of maccaroni or rice made in a mould. + +_Vol-au-vent_. This is a sort of case, made of very rich puff paste, +filled with delicate fricassee of fish, meat, or poultry, or richly +stewed fruits. + +_Vélouté_, an expensive white sauce. + + + + +OBSERVATIONS FOR THE USE OF THE COOK. + + +The receipts we have given are capable of being varied and modified by +an intelligent pains-taking cook, to suit the tastes of her employers. + +Where _one_ receipt has been thought sufficient to convey the +necessary instruction for several dishes, &c., &c., it has not been +repeated for each respectively, which plan will tend to facilitate her +task. + +We might, had we been inclined, have increased our collection +considerably by so doing, but have decided, from our own experience, +that it is preferable to give a limited number clearly and fully +explained, as these will always serve as guides and models for others +of the same kind. + +The cook must remember it is not enough to have ascertained the +ingredients and quantities requisite, but great care and attention +must be paid to the manner of mixing them, and in watching their +progress when mixed and submitted to the fire. + +The management of the oven and the fire deserve attention, and cannot +be regulated properly without practice and observation. + +The art of seasoning is difficult and important. + +Great judgment is required in blending the different spices or other +condiments, so that a fine flavour is produced without the undue +preponderance of either. + +It is only in coarse cooking that the flavour of onions, pepper, +garlic, nutmeg, and eschalot is permitted to prevail. As a general +rule, salt should be used in moderation. + +Sugar is an improvement in nearly all soups, sauces, and gravies; also +with stewed vegetables, but of course must be used with discretion. + +Ketchups, Soy, Harvey's sauce, &c., are used too indiscrimately by +inferior cooks; it is better to leave them to be added at table by +those who approve of their flavour. + +Any thing that is required to be warmed up a second time, should be +set in a basin placed in a _bain-marie_, or saucepan, filled with +boiling water, but which must not be allowed to boil; or the article +will become hardened and the sauce dried up. + +To remove every particle of fat from the gravies of stews, &c., a +piece of white blotting-paper should be laid on the surface, and the +fat will adhere to it; this should be repeated two or three times. + +It is important to keep saucepans well skimmed; the best prepared dish +will be spoiled by neglect on this point. + +The difference between good and bad cookery is particularly +discernible in the preparation of forcemeats. A common cook is +satistified if she chops or minces the ingredients and moistens them +with an egg scarcely beaten, but this is a very crude and imperfect +method; they should be pounded together in a mortar until not a lump +or fibre is perceptible. Further directions will be given in the +proper place, but this is a rule which must be strictly attended to by +those who wish to attain any excellence in this branch of their art. + +Eggs for forcemeats, and for every description of sweet dishes, should +be thoroughly beaten, and for the finer kinds should be passed through +a sieve. + +A trustworthy zealous servant must keep in mind, that waste and +extravagance are no proofs of skill. On the contrary, GOOD COOKERY +is by no means expensive, as it makes the most of every thing, and +furnishes out of simple and economical materials, dishes which are at +once palatable and elegant. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + + +Soups. + +STOCK OR CONSOMMÉ. + +This is the basis of all kinds of soup and sauces. Shin of beef or +ox-cheek make excellent stock, although good gravy-beef is sometimes +preferred; the bones should always be broken, and the meat cut up, as +the juices are better extracted; it is advisable to put on, at first, +but very little water, and to add more when the first quantity is +nearly dried up. The time required for boiling depends upon the +quantity of meat; six pounds of meat will take about five hours; if +bones, the same quantity will require double the time. + +Gravy beef with a knuckle of veal makes a fine and nutritious stock; +the stock for white soups should be prepared with veal or white +poultry. Very tolerable stock can be procured without purchasing meat +expressly for the purpose, by boiling down bones and the trimmings of +meat or poultry. + +The liquor in which beef or mutton intended for the table has been +boiled, will also, with small additions and skilful flavoring, make an +excellent soup at a trifling expense. + +To thicken soups, mix a little potatoe-flour, ground rice, or pounded +vermicelli, in a little water, till perfectly smooth; add a little of +the soup to it in a cup, until sufficiently thin, then pour it into +the rest and boil it up, to prevent the raw taste it would otherwise +have; the presence of the above ingredients should not be discovered, +and judgment and care are therefore requisite. + +If colouring is necessary, a crust of bread stewed in the stock will +give a fine brown, or the common browning may be used; it is made in +the following manner: + +Put one pound of coarse brown sugar in a stew-pan with a lump of +clarified suet; when it begins to froth, pour in a wine-glass of port +wine, half an ounce of black pepper, a little mace, four spoonsful +of ketchup or Harvey's sauce, a little salt, and the peel of a lemon +grated; boil all together, let it grow cold, when it must be skimmed +and bottled for use. + +It may also be prepared as required, by putting a small piece of +clarified fat with one ounce of coarse sugar, in an iron spoon, +melting them together, and stirring in a little ketchup and pepper. + +When good stock or consommé is prepared, it is very easy to form it +into any kind of soup or sauce that may be required. + + * * * * * + +GRAVY SOUP. + +Take about three quarts of any strong stock, seasoned with a bunch of +sweet herbs, a carrot, turnip, and a head of celery, which must not +be served in the soup. Vermicelli, maccaroni, or thin slices of carrot +and small sippets of fried bread cut in fancy shapes, are usually +served in this soup. + + * * * * * + +MOCK TURTLE. + +Half boil a well-cleaned calf's head, then cut off all the meat in +small square pieces, and break the bones; return it to the stew-pan, +with some good stock made of beef and veal; dredge in flour, add fried +shalot, pepper, parsley, tarragon, a little mushroom ketchup, and a +pint of white wine; simmer gently until the meat is perfectly soft and +tender. Balls of force-meat, and egg-balls, should be put in a +short time before serving; the juice of a lemon is considered an +improvement. + + * * * * * + +MULIGATAWNY SOUP. + +Take two chickens, cut them up small, as if for fricassee, flour +them well, put them in a saucepan with four onions shred, a piece of +clarified fat, pepper, salt, and two table spoonsful of curry powder; +let it simmer for an hour, then add three quarts of strong beef gravy, +and let it continue simmering for another hour; before sent to table +the juice of a lemon should be stirred in it; some persons approve of +a little rice being boiled with the stock, and a pinch of saffron is +also sometimes added. + + * * * * * + +ENGLISH MULIGATAWNY. + +Take a knuckle of veal, stew it till half done, then cut off the +greatest part of the meat, and continue to stew down the bone in +the stock, the meat must be cut into small pieces and fried with six +onions thinly sliced, and a table spoonful of curry powder, a desert +spoonful of cayenne pepper and salt, add the stock and let the whole +gently simmer for nearly an hour, flavouring it with a little Harvey's +sauce and lemon pickle. + + * * * * * + +SOUP A LA JULIENNE. + +Take a variety of vegetables: such as celery, carrots, turnips, leeks, +cauliflower, lettuce, and onions, cut them in shreds of small size, +place them in a stew-pan with a little fine salad oil, stew them +gently over the fire, adding weak broth from time to time; toast a +few slices of bread and cut them into pieces the size and shape of +shillings and crowns, soak them in the remainder of the broth, and +when the vegetables are well done add all together and let it simmer +for a few minutes; a lump of white sugar, with pepper and salt are +sufficient seasoning. + + * * * * * + +SOUPE A LA TURQUE. + +Make a good gravy from shin of beef, and cut up very small various +sorts of vegetables of whatever may be in season, add spices, pepper, +and salt; when it is all stewed well down together, set it to cool and +take off the fat, then place it again on the fire to boil, and add to +two quarts of soup, one quarter of a pound of rice, beat two yolks of +eggs with a little of the stock, and when the rice is quite tender, +stir them into the soup, taking the precaution not to let the soup +boil, and to stir always the same way. + + * * * * * + +PEPPER POT. + +Cut small pieces of any vegetables, and add pieces of smoked or salt +beef, and also of any cold poultry, roast beef or mutton, stew all +these together in two or three quarts of water, according to the +quantity of meat, &c. It must be seasoned highly with whole peppers, +allspice, mace, Jamaica pickles, and salt; it must be thoroughly +stewed, and served, without straining, in a tureen. + + * * * * * + +POTATOE SOUP. + +Grate a pound of fine potatoes in two quarts of water, add to it the +trimmings of any meat, amounting to about a pound in quantity, a cup +of rice, a few sweet herbs, and a head of celery, stew well till the +liquor is considerably reduced, then strain it through a sieve; if, +when strained, it is too thin and watery, add a little thickening; it +should be flavoured only with white pepper and salt. + + * * * * * + +SOUP CRESSY. + +Grate six carrots, and chop some onions with a lettuce, adding a few +sweet herbs, put them all into a stewpan, with enough of good broth +to moisten the whole, adding occasionally the remainder; when nearly +done, put in the crumb of a French roll, and when soaked, strain the +whole through a sieve, and serve hot in a tureen. + + * * * * * + +CARROT SOUP. + +Take a dozen carrots scraped clean, rasp them, but do not use the +core, two heads of celery, two onions thinly sliced, season to taste, +and pour over a good stock, say about two quarts, boil it, then pass +it through a sieve; it should be of the thickness of cream, return it +to the saucepan, boil it up and squeeze in a little lemon juice, or +add a little vinegar. + + * * * * * + +PALESTINE SOUP. + +Stew a knuckle of veal, and a calf's foot, and one pound of +_chorissa_, and a large fowl, in four quarts of water, add a piece of +fresh lemon peel, six Jerusalem artichokes, a bunch of sweet herbs, +a little salt and white pepper, and a little nutmeg, and a blade of +mace; when the fowl is thoroughly done, remove the white parts to +prepare for thickening, and let the rest continue stewing till the +stock is sufficiently strong, the white parts of the fowl must be +pounded and sprinkled with flower or ground rice, and stirred in the +soup after it has been strained, until it thickens. + + * * * * * + +A SIMPLE WHITE SOUP. + +Break a knuckle of veal, place it in a stewpan, also a piece of +_chorissa_, a carrot, two onions, three or four turnips, and a blade +of mace, pour over two or three quarts of water or weak broth, +season with salt, a sprig of parsley, and whole white pepper; when +sufficiently boiled, skim and strain it, and thicken with pounded +vermicelli. + + * * * * * + +VERMICELLI SOUP. + +Make a fine strong stock from the shin of beef, or any other part +preferred, and add, a short time before serving, a handful of +vermicelli, which should be broken, so that it may be in pieces of +convenient length, the stock should be more or less flavoured with +vegetables, and herbs, according to taste. + + * * * * * + +MATSO SOUP. + +Boil down half a shin of beef, four pounds of gravy beef, and a calf's +foot may be added, if approved, in three or four quarts of water; +season with celery, carrots, turnips, pepper and salt, and a bunch of +sweet herbs; let the whole stew gently for eight hours, then strain +and let it stand to get cold, when the fat must be removed, then +return it to the saucepan to warm up. Ten minutes before serving, +throw in the balls, from which the soup takes its name, and which are +made in the following manner: + +Take half a pound of _matso_ flour, two ounces of chopped suet, season +with a little pepper, salt, ginger, and nutmeg; mix with this, four +beaten eggs, and make it into a paste, a small onion shred and browned +in a desert spoonful of oil is sometimes added; the paste should be +made into rather large balls, and care should be taken to make them +very light. + + * * * * * + +TOMATA SOUP. + +Take a dozen unpealed tomatas, with a bit of clarified suet, or a +little sweet oil, and a small Spanish onion; sprinkle with flour, and +season with salt and cayenne pepper, and boil them in a little gravy +or water; it must be stirred to prevent burning, then pass it through +a sieve, and thin it with rich stock to the consistency of winter +pea-soup; flavour it with lemon juice, according to taste, after it +has been warmed up and ready for serving. + + * * * * * + +ALMONDEGOS SOUP: A SUPERIOR WHITE SOUP. + +Put a knuckle of veal and a calf's foot into two quarts of water, with +a blade of mace and a bunch of sweet herbs, a turnip, a little white +pepper, and salt; when sufficiently done, strain and skim it, and +add balls of forced meat, and egg balls. A quarter of an hour before +serving beat up the yolks of four eggs with a desert spoonful of lemon +juice, and three ounces of sweet almonds blanched and beaten with a +spoonful of powdered white sugar. This mixture is to be stirred into +the soup till it thickens, taking care to prevent its curdling. + + * * * * * + +A FINE VEGETABLE OR FRENCH SOUP. + +Take two quarts of strong stock made of gravy beef, add to this, +carrots, turnips, leek, celery, brocoli, peas and French beans, all +cut as small as possible, add a few lumps of white sugar, pepper, and +salt, let it simmer till the vegetables are perfectly soft, and throw +in a few force-meat balls. + + * * * * * + +ASPARAGUS SOUP. + +Take eight pounds of gravy beef, with five pints of water, a few sweet +herbs, and an onion shred, with a little pepper and salt; when the +strength of the meat is sufficiently extracted, strain off the soup, +and add to it a bundle of asparagus, cut small, with a little chopped +parsley and mint; the asparagus should be thoroughly done. A few +minutes before serving, throw in some fried bread cut up the size +of dice; pound a little spinach to a pulp, and squeeze it through a +cloth, stir about a tea-cup full of this essence into the soup, let it +boil up after to prevent a raw taste. + + * * * * * + +SOUP MAIGRE. + +Chop three lettuces, a large handful of spinach, a little chervil, a +head of celery, two or three carrots, and four onions, put them on +the fire with half a pound of butter, and let them fry till slightly +browned, season with a little salt, sifted white sugar, and white +pepper, stew all gently in five pints of boiling water for about two +hours and a half, and just before serving the soup, thicken it with +the beaten yolks of four eggs, mixed first with a little of the soup, +and then stirred into the remainder. + + * * * * * + +SUMMER PEA SOUP. + +Take a peck of peas, separate the old from the young, boil the former +till they are quite tender in good stock, then pass them through a +sieve, and return them to the stock, add the young peas, a little +chopped lettuce, small pieces of cucumber fried to a light brown, a +little bit of mint, pepper, and salt; two or three lumps of sugar give +a fine flavor. + + * * * * * + +WINTER PEA SOUP. + +Soak a quart of white peas in water, boil them till soft, in as much +water as will cover them, pass them through a sieve, and add them to +any broth that may be ready, a little piece of _chorissa_ or smoked +beef will improve the flavour; this soup should be served with mint +and fried bread. + + * * * * * + +GIBLET SOUP. + +Add to a fine strong well-seasoned beef stock, of about three quarts, +two sets of giblets, which should be previously stewed separately in +one quart of water (the gizzards require scalding for some time before +they are put in with the rest); white pepper, salt, and the rind of +lemon should season them; when they are tender, add them with their +gravy to the stock, and boil for about ten minutes together, then stir +in a glass of white wine, a table spoonful of mushroom ketchup, and +the juice of half a lemon; it will require to be thickened with a +little flour browned; the giblets are served in the soup. + + * * * * * + +BARLEY SOUP. + +Put in a stew-pan, a knuckle of mutton, or four pounds of the neck, +with three quarts of water, boil it gently and keep it well skimmed; +a sprig of parsley, a couple of sliced turnips, a carrot, an onion or +more, if approved, with a little white pepper and salt, are sufficient +seasoning, a breakfast cup full of barley should be scalded and put in +the stew-pan with the meat, if when done, the soup is thin and watery, +a little prepared barley, mixed smoothly, should be stirred in. + + * * * * * + +SOUP DE POISSON, OR FISH SOUP. + +Make a good stock, by simmering a cod's-head in water, enough to cover +the fish; season it with pepper and salt, mace, celery, parsley, and +a few sweet herbs, with two or three onions, when sufficiently done, +strain it, and add cutlets of fish prepared in the following manner: +cut very small, well-trimmed cutlets from any fish, sole or brill are +perhaps best suited; stew them in equal quantities of water and wine, +but not more than will cover them, with a large lump of butter, and +the juice of a lemon; when they have stewed gently for about fifteen +or twenty minutes, add them to the soup, which thicken with cream and +flour, serve the soup with the cutlets in a tureen; force-meat balls +of cod's liver are sometimes added. + + * * * * * + +OX TAIL SOUP. + +Have two well cleaned tails and a neat's foot, cut them in small +joints and soak them in water, put them in a stew-pan with a large +piece of clarified suet or fat, and let them simmer for ten minutes, +then put to them between three and four quarts of cold water, four +onions, a bunch of sweet herbs, a carrot, a turnip, a head of celery, +and season with whole pepper, allspice, two or three cloves, and salt; +let it stew till the meat is tender enough to leave the bones, then +remove it from them, as the bones are unsightly in the soup; thicken +if necessary with browned flour, and just before serving, add a glass +or more of port wine, and a little mushroom ketchup. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + + +Sauces. + +A RICH BROWN GRAVY. + +Take a little good beef consommé, or stock, a small piece of smoked +beef, or _chorissa_, a lemon sliced, some chopped shalots, a couple +of onions shred, a bay leaf, two or three cloves, and a little oil; +simmer gently, and add a little minced parsley, and a few chopped +mushrooms: skim and strain. + + * * * * * + +SAUCE PIQUANTE. + +The above may be rendered a Sauce Piquante by substituting a little +vinegar, whole capers, allspice, and thyme, instead of the smoked +beef and lemon; a few onions and piccalilli chopped finely, is a great +addition when required to be very piquante. + +A sauce like the above is very good to serve with beef that has been +boiled for broth. + + * * * * * + +A GOOD GRAVY FOR ROAST FOWLS. + +Take a little stock, squeeze in the juice of a lemon, add a little +mushroom powder, cayenne pepper and salt; thicken with flour. + + * * * * * + +ANOTHER EXCELLENT RECEIPT. + +Chop some mushrooms, young and fresh, salt them, and put them into a +saucepan with a little gravy, made of the trimmings of the fowl, or +of veal, a blade of mace, a little grated lemon peel, the juice of +one lemon; thicken with flour, and when ready to serve, stir in a +table-spoonful of white wine. + + * * * * * + +EGG SAUCE: A FINE WHITE SAUCE FOR BOILED CHICKENS, TURKEYS, OR WHITE +FRICASSEES. + +Beat up the yolks of four eggs with the juice of a fine lemon, a +tea-spoonful of flour, and a little cold water, mix well together, and +set it on the fire to thicken, stirring it to prevent curdling. This +sauce will be found excellent, if not superior, in many cases where +English cooks use melted butter. If capers are substituted for the +lemon juice, this sauce will be found excellent for boiled lamb or +mutton. + + * * * * * + +CELERY SAUCE. + +Cut in small pieces from about four to five heads of celery, which if +not very young must be peeled, simmer it till tender in half a pint of +veal gravy, if intended for white sauce, then add a spoonful of flour, +the yolks of three eggs, white pepper, salt, and the juice of one +lemon, these should be previously mixed together with a little water +till perfectly smooth and thin, and be stirred in with the sauce; +cream, instead of eggs, is used in English kitchens. + + * * * * * + +TOMATO SAUCE. + +Skin a dozen fine tomatos, set them on the fire in a little water +or gravy, beat them up with a little vinegar, lemon juice, cayenne +pepper, and salt; some persons like the yolk of an egg, well beaten +added. Strain or not, as may be preferred. + + * * * * * + +GRAVY FOR A FOWL, WHEN THERE IS NO STOCK TO MAKE IT WITH. + +Take the feet, wash them, cut them small, also the neck and gizzard; +season them with pepper and salt, onion, and parsley, let them simmer +gently for some time, in about a breakfast-cup of water, then strain, +thicken with flour, and add a little browning, and if liked, a small +quantity of any store sauce at hand, and it will prove an excellent +sauce. + + * * * * * + +SAVOURY JELLY, FOR COLD PIES, OR TO GARNISH COLD POULTRY. + +Have a bare knuckle of veal, and a calf's foot or cow heel; put it +into a stew-pan with a thick slice of smoked beef, a few herbs, a +blade of mace, two or three onions, a little lemon peel, pepper +and salt, and three or four pints of water (the French add a little +tarragon vinegar). When it boils skim it, and when cold, if not clear, +boil it a few minutes with the white and shell of an egg, and pass it +through a jelly bag, this jelly with the juice of two or three lemons, +and poured into a mould, in which are put the yolks of eggs boiled +hard, forms a pretty supper dish. + + * * * * * + +A FINE SAUCE FOR STEAKS. + +Throw into a saucepan a piece of fat the size of an egg, with two +or three onions sliced, let them brown; add a little gravy, flour, a +little vinegar, a spoonful of mustard, and a little cayenne pepper, +boil it and serve with the steaks. + + * * * * * + +A FISH SAUCE WITHOUT BUTTER. + +Put on, in a small saucepan, a cup of water, well flavored with +vinegar, an onion chopped fine, a little rasped horse-radish, pepper, +and two or three cloves, and a couple of anchovies cut small, when it +has boiled, stir carefully in the beaten yolks of two eggs, and let it +thicken, until of the consistency of melted butter. + + * * * * * + +A FINE FISH SAUCE. + +One teacup full of walnut pickle, the same of mushroom ditto, three +anchovies pounded, one clove of garlic pounded, half a tea-spoonful of +cayenne pepper, all mixed well together, and bottled for use. + + * * * * * + +A NICE SAUCE TO THROW OVER BROILED MEATS. + +Beat up a little salad-oil with a table-spoonful of vinegar, mustard, +pepper and salt, and then stir in the yolk of an egg; this sauce +should be highly seasoned. A sauce of this description is sometimes +used to baste mutton while roasting, the meat should be scored in +different places to allow the sauce to penetrate. + + * * * * * + +SAUCE FOR DUCKS. + +A little good gravy, with a glass of port wine, the juice of a lemon, +highly seasoned with cayenne pepper. + + * * * * * + +BREAD SAUCE. + +Take a large onion and boil it, with a little pepper till quite soft, +in milk, then take it out, and pour the milk over grated stale bread, +then boil it up with a piece of butter, and dredge it with flour; it +should be well beaten up with a silver fork. + +The above can be made without butter or milk: take a large onion, +slice it thin, put it into a little veal gravy, add grated bread, +pepper, &c., and the yolk and white of an egg well beaten. + + * * * * * + +APPLE SAUCE FOR GOOSE. + +Slice some apples, put them in a little water to simmer till soft, +beat them to a pulp; some consider a little powdered sugar an +improvement, but as the acid of the apples is reckoned a corrective to +the richness of the goose, it is usually preferred without. + + * * * * * + +MINT SAUCE. + +Mix vinegar with brown sugar, let it stand about an hour, then add +chopped mint, and stir together. + + * * * * * + +ONION SAUCE. + +Slice finely, and brown in a little oil, two or three onions; put them +in a little beef gravy, and add cayenne pepper, salt, and the juice of +a lemon. This is a nice sauce for steaks. + + * * * * * + +OILED BUTTER. + +Put some good butter into a cup or jar, and place it before the fire +till it becomes an oil, then pour it off, so that all sediment may be +avoided. + + * * * * * + +TO DRAW GOOD GRAVY. + + * * * * * + +Cut some gravy beef into small pieces, put them in a jar, and set it +in a saucepan of cold water to boil gently for seven or eight hours, +adding, from time to time, more water as the original quantity boils +away. The gravy thus made will be the essence of the meat, and in +cases where nutriment is required in the smallest compass, will be +of great service. Soups are stronger when the meat is cut, and gravy +drawn before water is added. + + * * * * * + +TRUFFLE SAUCE. + +Peel and slice as many truffles as required, simmer them gently with +a little butter, when they are tender, add to them good white or brown +consommé, lemon juice, pepper, salt, nutmeg, and a very little white +wine. + + * * * * * + +MUSHROOM SAUCE. + +Take about a pint of fine young button mushrooms, let them stew gently +in a white veal gravy seasoned with salt, pepper, a blade of mace, and +if approved, the grated peel of half a lemon, it should be thickened +with flour and the yolk of an egg stirred in it, just before serving; +English cooks add cream to this sauce. + + * * * * * + +SWEET SAUCE. + +The usual way of making sauces for puddings, is by adding sugar +to melted butter, or thin egg sauce, flavoring it with white wine, +brandy, lemon peel, or any other flavor approved of. + + * * * * * + +MELTED BUTTER. + +Although this sauce is one of the most simple, it is very rarely that +it is well made. Mix with four ounces of butter, a desert spoonful +of flour, when well mixed, add three table spoonsful of water, put it +into a clean saucepan kept for the purpose, and stir it carefully +one way till it boils; white sauce to throw over vegetables served on +toast, is made in the same way, only putting milk and water, instead +of water only. + + * * * * * + +SAUCE WITHOUT BUTTER FOR BOILED PUDDINGS. + +Mix a table-spoonful of flour, with two of water, add a little wine, +lemon peel grated, a small bit of clarified suet, of the size of a +walnut, grated nutmeg, and sugar, put on in a saucepan, stirring one +way, and adding water if too thick, lemon juice, or essence of noyeau, +or almonds may be substituted to vary the flavour. + + * * * * * + +SAUCE ROBERT FOR STEAKS. + +Chop up some onions, throw them into a saucepan with a bit of +clarified fat, let them fry till brown, then add pepper, salt, a +little gravy, mustard, lemon juice, and vinegar; boil it all, and pour +over the steaks. + + * * * * * + +CAPER SAUCE. + +This is merely melted butter with a few pickled capers simmered in it, +or they may be put into a sauce made of broth thickened with egg, and +a little flour. + + * * * * * + +SAVORY HERB POWDER. + +It is useful to select a variety of herbs, so that they may always +be at hand for use: the following are considered to be an excellent +selection, parsley, savory, thyme, sweet majoram, shalot, chervil, and +sage, in equal quantities; dry these in the oven, pound them finely +and keep them in bottles well stopped. + + * * * * * + +SEASONING FOR DUCKS AND GEESE. + +Mix chopped onion with an equal quantity of chopped sage, three times +as much grated stale bread, a little shred suet, pepper, salt, and a +beaten egg to bind it, this is generally used for geese and ducks, the +onions are sometimes boiled first to render them less strong. + + * * * * * + +ENGLISH EGG SAUCE. + +Boil two eggs hard, chop them finely, and warm them up in finely made +melted butter, add a little white pepper, salt, a blade of mace, and a +very small quantity of nutmeg. + + * * * * * + +SAUCE A LA TARTARE. + +Mix the yolk of an egg with oil, vinegar, chopped parsley, mustard, +pepper, and salt; a spoonful of paté de diable or French mustard, +renders the sauce more piquante. + + * * * * * + +A FINE SAUCE FOR ROAST MUTTON. + +Mix a little port wine in some gravy, two table-spoonfuls of vinegar, +one of oil, a shalot minced, and a spoonful of mustard, just before +the mutton is served, pour the sauce over it, then sprinkle it with +fried bread crumbs, and then again baste the meat with the sauce; this +is a fine addition to the mutton. + + * * * * * + +ASPARAGUS SAUCE, TO SERVE WITH LAMB CHOPS. + +Cut some asparagus, or sprew, into half inch lengths, wash them, and +throw them into half a pint of gravy made from beef, veal, or mutton +thickened, and seasoned with salt, white pepper, and a lump of white +sugar, the chops should be delicately fried and the sauce served in +the centre of the dish. + + * * * * * + +BROWN CUCUMBER SAUCE. + +Peel and cut in thick slices, one or more fresh cucumbers, fry them +until brown in a little butter, or clarified fat, then add to them +a little strong beef gravy, pepper, salt, and a spoonful of vinegar; +some cooks add a chopped onion browned with the cucumbers. + + * * * * * + +WHITE CUCUMBER SAUCE. + +Take out the seeds of some fresh young cucumbers, quarter them, and +cut them into pieces of two inch lengths, let them lay for an hour in +vinegar and water, then simmer them till thoroughly soft, in a veal +broth seasoned with pepper, salt, and a little lemon juice; when ready +for serving, pour off the gravy and thicken it with the yolks of a +couple of eggs stirred in, add it to the saucepan; warm up, taking +care that it does not curdle. + + * * * * * + +BROWNED FLOUR FOR MAKING SOUPS AND GRAVIES DARK AND THICK. + +Spread flour on a tin, and place it in a Dutch oven before the fire, +or in a gentle oven till it browns; it must often be turned, that the +flour may be equally coloured throughout. A small quantity of this +prepared and laid by for use, will be found useful. + + * * * * * + +BROWNED BREAD CRUMBS. + +Grate into fine crumbs, about five or six ounces of stale bread, +and brown them in a gentle oven or before the fire; this is a more +delicate way of browning them than by frying. + + * * * * * + +CRISPED PARSLEY. + +Wash and drain a handful of fresh young sprigs of parsley, dry +them with a cloth, place them before the fire on a dish, turn them +frequently, and they will be perfectly crisp in ten minutes. + + * * * * * + +FRIED PARSLEY. + +When the parsley is prepared as above, fry it in butter or clarified +suet, then drain it on a cloth placed before the fire. + + * * * * * + +BREAD CRUMBS FOR FRYING. + +Cut slices of bread without crust, and dry them gradually in a cool +oven till quite dry and crisp, then roll them into fine crumbs, and +put them in a jar for use. + + * * * * * + +SPINACH GREEN. + +Pound to a pulp in a mortar a handful of spinach, and squeeze it +through a hair sieve; then put it into a cup or jar, and place it in +a basin of hot water for a few minutes, or it may be allowed to simmer +on the fire; a little of this stirred into spring soups, improve their +appearance. + + * * * * * + +VELOUTÉ, BECHAMEL. + +These preparations are so frequently mentioned in modern cookery, that +we shall give the receipts for them, although they are not appropriate +for the Jewish kitchen. Velouté is a fine white sauce, made by +reducing a certain quantity of well-flavoured consommé or stock, +over a charcoal fire, and mixing it with boiling cream, stirring it +carefully till it thickens. + +Béchamel is another sort of fine white stock, thickened with cream, +there is more flavouring in this than the former, the stock is made of +veal, with some of the smoked meats used in English kitchens, butter, +mace, onion, mushrooms, bay leaf, nutmeg, and a little salt. An +excellent substitute for these sauces can in Jewish kitchens be made +in the following way: + +Take some veal broth flavored with smoked beef, and the above named +seasonings, then beat up two or three yolks of eggs, with a little of +the stock and a spoonful of potatoe flour, stir this into the +broth, until it thickens, it will not be quite as white, but will be +excellent. + + * * * * * + +FORCEMEAT OR FARCIE. + +Under this head is included the various preparations used for balls, +tisoles, fritters, and stuffings for poultry and veal, it is a branch +of cooking which requires great care and judgment, the proportions +should be so blended as to produce a delicate, yet savoury flavor, +without allowing any particular herb or spice to predominate. + +The ingredients should always be pounded well together in a mortar, +not merely chopped and moistened with egg, as is usually done by +inexperienced cooks; forcemeat can be served in a variety of forms, +and is so useful a resource, that it well repays the attention it +requires. + + * * * * * + +A SUPERIOR FORCEMEAT FOR RISOLLES, FRITTERS, AND SAVORY MEAT BALLS. + +Scrape half a pound of the fat of smoked beef, and a pound of lean +veal, free from skin, vein, or sinew, pound it finely in a mortar +with chopped mushrooms, a little minced parsley, salt and pepper, +and grated lemon peel, then have ready the crumb of two French rolls +soaked in good gravy, press out the moisture, and add the crumb to the +meat with three beaten eggs; if the forcemeat is required to be very +highly flavored, the gravy in which the rolls are soaked should be +seasoned with mushroom powder; a spoonful of ketchup, a bay leaf, an +onion, pepper, salt, and lemon juice, add this panada to the pounded +meat and eggs, form the mixture into any form required, and either fry +or warm in gravy, according to the dish for which it is intended. + +Any cold meats pounded, seasoned, and made according to the above +method are excellent; the seasoning can be varied, or rendered simpler +if required. + + * * * * * + +COMMON VEAL, STUFFING. + +Have equal quantities of finely shred suet and grated crumbs of bread, +add chopped sweet herbs, grated lemon peel, pepper, and salt, pound it +in a mortar; this is also used for white poultry, with the addition +of a little grated smoked beef, or a piece of the root of a tongue +pounded and mixed with the above ingredients. + + * * * * * + +FISH FORCEMEAT. + +Chop finely any kind of fish, that which has been already dressed +will answer the purpose, then pound it in a mortar with a couple of +anchovies, or a little anchovy essence, the yolk of a hard boiled +egg, a little butter, parsley or any other herb which may be approved, +grated lemon peel, and a little of the juice, then add a little bread +previously soaked, and mix the whole into a paste, and form into +balls, or use for stuffing, &c. + +The liver or roe of fish is well suited to add to the fish, as it is +rich and delicate. + + * * * * * + +FORCEMEAT FOR DRESSING FISH FILLETS. + +Pound finely anchovies, grated bread, chopped parsley, and the yolk of +a hard boiled egg, add grated lemon peel, a little lemon juice, pepper +and salt, and make into a paste with two eggs. + + * * * * * + +FORCEMEAT FOR DRESSING CUTLETS, ETC. + +Add to grated stale bread, an equal quantity of chopped parsley, +season it well, and mix it with clarified suet, then brush the cutlets +with beaten yolks of eggs, lay on the mixture thickly with a knife, +and sprinkle over with dry and fine bread crumbs. + + * * * * * + +EGG BALLS. + +Beat the hard yolks of eggs in a mortar, make it into a paste with +the yolk of a raw egg, form the paste into very small balls, and throw +them into boiling water for a minute or so, to harden them. + + * * * * * + +PREPARATION FOR CUTLETS OF FOWL OR VEAL. + +Make a smooth batter of flour, and a little salad oil, and two eggs, +a little white pepper, salt, and nutmeg, turn the cutlets well in +this mixture, and fry a light brown, garnish with slices of lemon, +and crisped parsley, this is done by putting in the parsley after the +cutlets have been fried, it will speedily crisp; it should then be +drained, to prevent its being greasy. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + + +Fish. + +PRELIMINARY REMARKS. + +When fish is to be boiled, it should be rubbed lightly over with salt, +and set on the fire in a saucepan or fish-kettle sufficiently large, +in hard cold water, with a little salt, a spoonful or two of vinegar +is sometimes added, which has the effect of increasing its firmness. + +Fish for broiling should be rubbed over with vinegar, well dried in +a cloth and floured. The fire must be clear and free from smoke, the +gridiron made quite hot, and the bars buttered before the fish is put +on it. Fish to be fried should be rubbed in with salt, dried, rolled +in a cloth, and placed for a few minutes before the fire previous to +being put in the pan. + + * * * * * + +FISH FRIED IN OIL. + +Soles, plaice, or salmon, are the best kinds of fish to dress in +this manner, although various other sorts are frequently used. When +prepared by salting or drying, as above directed, have a dish ready +with beaten eggs, turn the fish well over in them, and sprinkle it +freely with flour, so that the fish may be covered entirely with it, +then place it in a pan with a good quantity of the best frying oil at +boiling heat; fry the fish in it gently, till of a fine equal brown +colour, when done, it should be placed on a cloth before the fire +for the oil to drain off; great care should be observed that the oil +should have ceased to bubble when the fish is put in, otherwise it +will be greasy; the oil will serve for two or three times if strained +off and poured into a jar. Fish prepared in this way is usually served +cold. + + * * * * * + +FRIED SOLES IN THE ENGLISH WAY. + +Prepare the soles as directed in the last receipt, brush them over +with egg, dredge them with stale bread crumbs, and fry in boiling +butter; this method is preferable when required to be served hot. + + * * * * * + +ESCOBECHE. + +Take some cold fried fish, place it in a deep pan, then boil half a +pint of vinegar with two table spoonsful of water, and one of oil, +a little grated ginger, allspice, cayenne pepper, two bay leaves, a +little salt, and a table spoonful of lemon juice, with sliced onions; +when boiling, pour it over the fish, cover the pan, and let it stand +twenty-four hours before serving. + + * * * * * + +FISH STEWED WHITE. + +Put an onion, finely chopped, into a stew-pan, with a little oil, till +the onion becomes brown, then add half a pint of water, and place +the fish in the stew-pan, seasoning with pepper, salt, mace, ground +allspice, nutmeg, and ginger; let it stew gently till the fish is +done, then prepare the beaten yolks of four eggs, with the juice of +two lemons, and a tea spoonful of flour, a table spoonful of cold +water, and a little saffron, mix well in a cup, and pour it into +the stew-pan, stirring it carefully one way until it thickens. Balls +should be thrown in about twenty minutes before serving; they are made +in the following way: take a little of the fish, the liver, and roe, +if there is any, beat it up finely with chopped parsley, and spread +warmed butter, crumbs of bread, and seasoning according to taste; +form this into a paste with eggs, and make it into balls of a moderate +size; this is a very nice dish when cold; garnish with sliced lemon +and parsley. + + * * * * * + +AN EXCELLENT RECEIPT FOR STEWED FISH IN THE DUTCH FASHION. + +Take three or four parsley roots, cut them into pieces, slice several +onions and boil in a pint of water till tender, season with lemon +juice, vinegar, saffron, pepper, salt, and mace, then add the fish, +and let it stew till nearly finished, when remove it, and thicken the +gravy with a little flour and butter, and the yolk of one egg, then +return the fish to the stew-pan, with balls made as directed in the +preceding receipt, and boil up. + + * * * * * + +FISH STEWED BROWN. + +Fry some fish of a light brown, either soles, slices of salmon, +halibut, or plaice, let an onion brown in a little oil, add to it a +cup of water, a little mushroom ketchup or powder, cayenne pepper, +salt, nutmeg, and lemon juice, put the fish into a stew-pan with the +above mixture, and simmer gently till done, then take out the fish and +thicken the gravy with a little browned flour, and stir in a glass of +port wine; a few truffles, or mushrooms, are an improvement. + + * * * * * + +WATER SOUCHY. + +Take a portion of the fish intended to be dressed, and stew it down +with three pints of water, parsley roots, and chopped parsley, and +then pulp them through a sieve, then add the rest of the fish, with +pepper, salt, and seasoning; and serve in a deep dish. + + * * * * * + +A SUPERIOR RECEIPT FOR STEWED CARP. + +Clean the fish thoroughly, put it into a saucepan, with a strong rich +gravy, season with onion, parsley roots, allspice, nutmegs, beaten +cloves, and ginger, let it stew very gently till nearly done, then +mix port wine and vinegar in equal quantities, coarse brown sugar and +lemon juice, a little flour, with some of the gravy from the saucepan, +mix well and pour over the fish, let it boil till the gravy thickens. +Pike is excellent stewed in this manner. + + * * * * * + +FILLETS OF FISH. + +Fillets of salmon, soles, &c., fried of a delicate brown according to +the receipt already given, and served with a fine gravy is a very nice +dish. + +If required to be very savory, make a fish force-meat, and lay it +thickly on the fish before frying; fillets dressed in this way are +usually arranged round the dish, and served with a sauce made of good +stock, thickened and seasoned with cayenne pepper, lemon juice, and +mushroom essence; piccalilli are sometimes added cut small. + + * * * * * + +BAKED HADDOCK. + +Carefully clean a fresh haddock, and fill it with a fine forcemeat, +and sew it in securely; give the fish a dredging of flour, and pour on +warmed butter, sprinkle it with pepper and salt, and set it to bake +in a Dutch-oven before the fire, basting it, from time to time, with +butter warmed, and capers; it should be of a rich dark brown, and it +is as well to dredge two or three times with flour while at the fire, +the continual bastings will produce sufficient sauce to serve with it +without any other being added. + +Mackarel and whiting prepared in this manner are excellent, the latter +should be covered with a layer of bread crumbs, and arranged in a +ring, and the forcemeat, instead of stuffing them, should be formed +into small balls, and served in the dish as a garnish. + +The forcemeat must be made as for veal stuffing, with the addition of +a couple of minced anchovies, cayenne pepper, and butter instead of +suet. + + * * * * * + +A NICE WAY OF DRESSING RED HERRINGS. + +Open them, cut off the tails and heads, soak them in hot water for an +hour, then wipe them dry; mix with warmed butter one beaten egg, pour +this over the herrings, sprinkle with bread crumbs, flour, and white +pepper, broil them and serve them very hot. + + * * * * * + +BAKED MACKAREL WITH VINEGAR. + +Cut off the heads and tails, open and clean them, lay them in a +deep pan with a few bay leaves, whole pepper, half a tea-spoonful of +cloves, and a whole spoonful of allspice, pour over equal quantities +of vinegar and water, and bake for an hour and a half, in a gentle +oven; herrings and sprats are also dressed according to this receipt. + + * * * * * + +FISH SALAD. + +Cut in small pieces any cold dressed fish, turbot or salmon are the +best suited; mix it with half a pint of small salad, and a lettuce +cut small, two onions boiled till tender and mild, and a few truffles +thinly sliced; pour over a fine salad mixture, and arrange it into a +shape, high in the centre, and garnish with hard eggs cut in slices; +a little cucumber mixed with the salad is an improvement. The mixture +may either be a common salad mixture, or made as follows: take the +yolks of three hard boiled eggs, with a spoonful of mustard, and a +little salt, mix these with a cup of cream, and four table-spoonsful +of vinegar, the different ingredients should be added carefully and +worked together smoothly, the whites of the eggs may be trimmed and +placed in small heaps round the dish as a garnish. + + * * * * * + +IMPANADA. + +Cut in small pieces halibut, plaice, or soles, place them in a deep +dish in alternate layers, with slices of potatoes and dumplings made +of short-crust paste, sweetened with brown sugar, season well with +small pickles, peppers, gerkins, or West India pickles; throw over a +little water and butter warmed, and bake it thoroughly. + + * * * * * + +WHITE BAIT. + +This is such a delicate fish that there are few cooks who attempt to +dress it without spoiling it; they should not be touched but thrown +from the dish into a cloth with a handful of flour; shake them +lightly, but enough to cover them well with the flour, then turn them +into a sieve expressly for bait to free them from too great a quantity +of the flour, then throw the fish into a pan with plenty of boiling +butter, they must remain but an instant, for they are considered +spoilt if they become the least brown; they should be placed lightly +on the dish piled up high in the centre, brown bread and butter is +always served with them; when devilled they are also excellent, and +are permitted to become brown; they are then sprinkled with cayenne +pepper, and a little salt, and served with lemon juice. + +This receipt was given by a cook who dressed white bait to perfection. + + * * * * * + +A DUTCH FRICANDELLE. + +Take two pounds of dressed fish, remove the skin and bones, cut in +small pieces with two or three anchovies, and season well, soak the +crumb of a French roll in milk, beat it up with the fish and three +eggs: butter a mould, sprinkle it with raspings, place in the fish +and bake it; when done, turn out and serve either dry or with +anchovy sauce; if served dry, finely grated crumbs of bread should be +sprinkled thickly over it, and it should be placed for a few minutes +before the fire to brown. + + * * * * * + +FISH FRITTERS. + +Make a force-meat of any cold fish, form it into thin cakes, and fry +of a light brown, or enclose them first in thin paste and then fry +them. The roes of fish or the livers are particularly nice prepared in +this way. + + * * * * * + +FISH OMELET. + +Shred finely any cold fish, season it, and mix with beaten eggs; make +it into a paste, fry in thin cakes like pancakes, and serve hot on a +napkin; there should be plenty of boiling butter in the pan, as they +should be moist and rich; there should be more eggs in the preparation +for omelets than for fritters. + + * * * * * + +SCALLOPED FISH. + +Take any dressed fish, break it in small pieces, put it into tin +scallops, with a few crumbs of bread, a good piece of butter, a little +cream if approved, white pepper, salt, and nutmeg; bake in an oven for +ten minutes, or brown before the fire; two or three mushrooms mixed, +or an anchovy will be found an improvement. + + * * * * * + +ANOTHER WAY. + +Break the fish into pieces, pour over the beaten yolk of an egg, +sprinkle with pepper and salt, strew with bread crumbs, chopped +parsley, and grated lemon peel, and squeeze in the juice of lemon, +drop over a little warmed butter, and brown before the fire. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + + +Directions for Various Ways of Dressing Meat and Poultry. + +INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. + +Boiling is the most simple manner of cooking, the great art in +this process is to boil the article sufficiently, without its being +overdone, the necessity of slow boiling cannot be too strongly +impressed upon the cook, as the contrary, renders it hard and of a bad +color; the average time of boiling for fresh meat is half an hour to +every pound, salt meat requires half as long again, and smoked meat +still longer; the lid of the saucepan should only be removed for +skimming, which is an essential process. + +Roasting chiefly depends on the skilful management of the fire, it is +considered that a joint of eight pounds requires two hours roasting; +when first put down it should be basted with fresh dripping, and +afterwards with its own dripping, it should be sprinkled with salt, +and repeatedly dredged with flour, which browns and makes it look rich +and frothy. + +Broiling requires a steady clear fire, free from flame and smoke, the +gridiron should be quite hot before the article is placed on it, and +the bars should be rubbed with fat, or if the article is thin-skinned +and delicate, with chalk; the gridiron should be held aslant to +prevent the fat dripping into the fire; the bars of a gridiron should +be close and fine. Frying is easier than broiling, the fat, oil or +butter in which the article is fried must be boiling, but have ceased +to bubble before it is put in the pan, or it will be greasy and black: +there is now a new description of fryingpan, called a sauté pan, and +which will be found extremely convenient for frying small cutlets or +collops. + +Stewing is a more elaborate mode of boiling; a gentle heat with +frequent skimmings, are the points to be observed. + +Glazing is done by brushing melted jelly over the article to be glazed +and letting it cool, and then adding another coat, or in some cases +two or three, this makes any cold meats or poultry have an elegant +appearance. + +Blanching makes the article plump and white. It should be set on the +fire in cold water, boil up and then be immersed in cold water, +where it should remain some little time. Larding (the French term is +_Piqué_, which the inexperienced Jewish cook may not be acquainted +with, we therefore use the term in common use) is a term given to +a certain mode of garnishing the surface of meat or poultry: it +is inserting small pieces of the fat of smoked meats, truffles, or +tongue, which are trimmed into slips of equal length and size, into +the flesh of the article at regular distances, and is effected by +means of larding pins. + +Poelée and Blanc, are terms used in modern cookery for a very +expensive mode of stewing: it is done by stewing the article with +meat, vegetables, and fat of smoked meats, all well seasoned; instead +of placing it to stew in water it is placed on slices of meat covered +with slices of fat and the vegetables and seasoning added, then water +enough to cover the whole is added. + +Blanc differs from Poelée, in having a quantity of suet added, and +being boiled down before the article is placed to stew in it. + +Braising is a similar process to Poelée, but less meat and vegetable +is used. + + * * * * * + +TO CLARIFY SUET. + +Melt down with care fine fresh suet, either beef or veal, put it into +a jar, and set it in a stew-pan of water to boil, putting in a sprig +of rosemary, or a little orange flower water while melting, this is +a very useful preparation and will be found, if adopted in English +kitchens, to answer the purpose of lard and is far more delicate and +wholesome: it should be well beaten till quite light with a wooden +fork. + + * * * * * + +OLIO. + +Put eight pounds of beef in sufficient water to cover it, when the +water boils take out the meat, skim off the fat, and then return the +meat to the stew-pan, adding at the same time two fine white cabbages +without any of the stalk or hard parts; season with pepper, salt, and +a tea-spoonful of white sugar, let it simmer on a slow fire for +about five hours, about an hour before serving, add half a pound of +_chorisa_, which greatly improves the flavor. + + * * * * * + +AN EXCELLENT RECEIPT FOR STEWING A RUMP OF BEEF. + +Chop fine a large onion, four bay leaves, and a little parsley, add to +these half an ounce of ground ginger, a tea-spoonful of salt, a blade +of mace, a little ground allspice, some lemon sliced, and some of the +peel grated; rub all these ingredients well into the meat, then place +it into a stew-pan with three parts of a cup of vinegar, a calf's-foot +cut in small pieces and a pint of water, stew gently till tender, +when the fat must be carefully skimmed off the gravy, which must be +strained and poured over the meat. + + * * * * * + +ALAMODE BEEF, OR SOUR MEAT. + +Cover a piece of the ribs of beef boned and filletted, or a piece of +the round with vinegar diluted with water, season with onions, pepper, +salt, whole allspice, and three or four bay leaves, add a cup full +of raspings, and let the whole stew gently for three or four hours, +according to the weight of the meat; this dish is excellent when cold. +A rump steak stewed in the same way will be found exceedingly fine. + + * * * * * + +KIMMEL MEAT. + +Place a small piece of the rump of beef, or the under cut of a sirloin +in a deep pan with three pints of vinegar, two ounces of carraway +seeds tied in a muslin bag, salt, pepper, and spices, cover it down +tight, and bake thoroughly in a slow oven. This is a fine relish for +luncheons. + + * * * * * + +BEEF AND BEANS. + +Take a piece of brisket of beef, cover it with water, when boiling +skim off the fat, add one quarter of French beans cut small, two +onions cut in quarters, season with pepper and salt, and when nearly +done take a dessert-spoonful of flour, one of coarse brown sugar, and +a large tea-cup full of vinegar, mix them together and stir in with +the beans, and continue stewing for about half an hour longer. + + * * * * * + +KUGEL AND COMMEAN. + +Soak one pint of Spanish peas and one pint of Spanish beans all night +in three pints of water; take two marrow bones, a calf's-foot, and +three pounds of fine gravy-beef, crack the bones and tie them to +prevent the marrow escaping, and put all together into a pan; then +take one pound of flour, half a pound of shred suet, a little grated +nutmeg and ground ginger, cloves and allspice, one pound of coarse +brown sugar, and the crumb of a slice of bread, first soaked in water +and pressed dry, mix all these ingredients together into a paste, +grease a quart basin and put it in, covering the basin with a plate +set in the middle of the pan with the beans, meat, &c. Cover the pan +lightly down with coarse brown paper, and let it remain all the night +and the next day, (until required) in a baker's oven, when done, take +out the basin containing the pudding, and skim the fat from the gravy +which must be served as soup; the meat, &c., is extremely savory and +nutritious, but is not a very seemly dish for table. The pudding must +be turned out of the basin, and a sweet sauce flavored with lemon and +brandy is a fine addition. + + * * * * * + +SAUER KRAUT. + +Boil about seven or eight pounds of beef, either brisket or a fillet +off the shoulder, in enough water to cover it, when it has boiled for +one hour, add as much sauer kraut, which is a German preparation, +as may be approved, it should then stew gently for four hours and be +served in a deep dish. The Germans are not very particular in removing +the fat, but it is more delicate by so doing. + + * * * * * + +BEEF WITH CELERY, AND WHITE BEANS AND PEAS. + +Soak for twelve hours one pint of dried white peas, and half a pint of +the same kind of beans, they must be well soaked, and if very dry, may +require longer than twelve hours, put a nice piece of brisket of about +eight pounds weight in a stew-pan with the peas and beans, and three +heads of celery cut in small pieces, put water enough to cover, and +season with pepper and salt only, let it all stew slowly till the meat +is extremely tender and the peas and beans quite soft, then add four +large lumps of sugar and nearly a tea-cup of vinegar; this is a very +fine stew. + + * * * * * + +BEEF COLLOPS. + +Cut thin slices off from any tender part, divide them into pieces of +the size of a wine biscuit, flatten and flour them, and lightly fry +in clarified fat, lay them in a stew-pan with good stock, season to +taste, have pickled gherkins chopped small, and add to the gravy a few +minutes before serving. + + * * * * * + +TO WARM COLD ROAST BEEF WHEN NOT SUFFICIENTLY DONE. + +Cut it in slices, also slice some beetroot or cucumber and put them +in a saucepan with a little gravy which need not be strong, two +table-spoonsful of vinegar, one of oil, pepper, salt, a little chopped +lettuce and a few peas, simmer till the vegetables and meat are +sufficiently dressed. + + * * * * * + +TO HASH BEEF. + +The meat should be put on the fire in a little broth or gravy, with +a little fried onion, pepper, salt, and a spoonful of ketchup, or any +other sauce at hand, let it simmer for about ten minutes, then mix in +a cup a little flour with a little of the gravy, and pour it into the +stewpan to thicken the rest; sippets of toast should be served with +hashes, a little port wine, a pinch of saffron, or a piece _chorisa_ +may be considered great improvements. + + * * * * * + +STEAKS WITH CHESNUTS. + +Take a fine thick steak, half fry it, then flour and place it in a +stewpan with a little good beef gravy, season with cayenne pepper and +salt, when it has simmered for about ten minutes, add a quarter of a +hundred good chesnuts, peeled and the inner skin scraped off, let them +stew with the steak till well done, this is a very nice dish, a little +Espagnole sauce heightens the flavor. + + * * * * * + +A SIMPLE STEWED STEAK. + +Put a fine steak in a stewpan with a large piece of clarified suet +or fat, and a couple of onions sliced, let the steak fry for a few +minutes, turning it several times; then cover the steak with gravy, +or even water will answer the purpose, with a tea-cup full of button +onions, or a Spanish onion sliced, a little lemon peel, pepper, salt, +and a little allspice; simmer till the steak is done, when the steak +must be removed and the gravy be carefully skimmed, then add to it a +little browning and a spoonful of mushroom ketchup; the steak must +be kept on a hot stove or returned to the stewpan to warm up. If the +gravy is not thick enough, stir in a little flour. + + * * * * * + +BRISKET STEWED WITH ONIONS AND RAISINS. + +Stew about five pounds of brisket of beef in sufficient water to +cover, season with allspice, pepper, salt, and nutmeg, and when nearly +done, add four large onions cut in pieces and half a pound of raisins +stoned, let them remain simmering till well done; and just before +serving, stir in a tea-spoonful of brown sugar and a table spoonful of +flour. + + * * * * * + +BRISKET STEWED. + +Take about six or seven pounds of brisket of beef, place it in a +stewpan with only enough water to cover it, season with a little spice +tied in a bag; when the meat is tender and the spices sufficiently +extracted to make the gravy rich and strong, part of it must be +removed to another saucepan; have ready a variety of vegetables cut +into small shapes, such as turnips, carrots, mushrooms, cauliflowers, +or whatever may be in season; stew them gently till tender in the +gravy, the meat must then be glazed and the gravy poured in the dish, +and the vegetables arranged round. + + * * * * * + +BEEF RAGOUT. + +Take a small well cut piece of lean beef, lard it with the fat +of smoked beef, and stew it with good gravy, highly seasoned with +allspice, cloves, pepper and salt; when the meat is well done remove +it from the gravy, which skim carefully and free from every particle +of fat, and add to it a glass of port wine, the juice of a lemon, half +a tea-spoonful of cayenne pepper, and a little mushroom ketchup; the +beef should be glazed when required to have an elegant appearance. + +A few very small forcemeat balls must be poached in the gravy, which +must be poured over the meat, and the balls arranged round the dish; +this is a very savoury and pretty dish. + + * * * * * + +TO SALT BEEF. + +This may be done by mixing a pound of common salt, half an ounce of +saltpetre and one ounce of coarse brown sugar, and rubbing the meat +well with it, daily for a fortnight or less, according to the weather, +and the degree of salt that the meat is required to have. Or by +boiling eight ounces of salt, eight ounces of sugar, and half an ounce +of saltpetre in two quarts of water, and pouring it over the meat, and +letting it stand in it for eight or ten days. + + * * * * * + +SPICED BEEF. + +Take a fine thick piece of brisket of beef not fat, let it lay three +days in a pickle, as above, take it out and rub in a mixture of spices +consisting of equal quantities of ground all-spice, black pepper, +cloves, ginger and nutmegs, and a little brown sugar, repeat this +daily for a week, then cover it with pounded dried sweet herbs, roll +or tie it tightly, put it into a pan with very little water, and bake +slowly for eight hours, then take it out, untie it and put a heavy +weight upon it; this it a fine relish when eaten cold. + + * * * * * + +SMOKED BEEF. + +As there are seldom conveniences in private kitchens for smoking +meats, it will generally be the best and cheapest plan to have them +ready prepared for cooking. All kinds of meats smoked and salted, +are to be met with in great perfection at all the Hebrew butchers. + +_Chorisa_, that most refined and savoury of all sausages, is to be +also procured at the same places. It is not only excellent fried in +slices with poached eggs or stewed with rice, but imparts a delicious +flavor to stews, soups, and sauces, and is one of the most useful +resources of the Jewish kitchen. + + * * * * * + +A WHITE FRICANDEAU OF VEAL. + +Take four or five pounds of breast of veal, or fillet from the +shoulder; stuff it with a finely flavoured veal stuffing and put it +into a stewpan with water sufficient to cover it, a calf's-foot cut +in pieces is sometimes added, season with one onion, a blade of mace, +white pepper and salt, and a sprig of parsley, stew the whole gently +until the meat is quite tender, then skim and strain the gravy and +stir in the beaten yolks of four eggs, and the juice of two lemons +previously mixed smoothly with a portion of the gravy, button +mushrooms, or pieces of celery stewed with the veal are sometimes +added by way of varying the flavor, egg and forcemeat balls garnish +the dish. When required to look elegant it should be piqué. + + * * * * * + +A BROWN FRICASSEE. + +Cut a breast of veal in pieces, fry them lightly and put them into a +stewpan with a good beef gravy, seasoned with white pepper, salt, a +couple of sliced onions (previously browned in a little oil), and a +piece of whole ginger, let it simmer very slowly for two hours taking +care to remove the scum or fat, have ready some rich forcemeat and +spread it about an inch thick over three cold hard boiled eggs, fry +these for a few moments and put them in the saucepan with the veal; +before serving, these balls should be cut in quarters, and the gravy +rendered more savory by the addition of lemon juice and half a glass +of white wine, or a table-spoonful of walnut liquor, if the gravy is +not sufficiently thick by long stewing, a little browned flour may be +stirred in. + + * * * * * + +CALF'S HEAD STEWED. + +Clean and soak the head till the cheek-bone can be easily removed, +then parboil it and cut it into pieces of moderate size, and place +them in about a quart of stock made from shin of beef, the gravy must +be seasoned highly with eschalots, a small head of celery, a small +bunch of sweet herbs, an onion, a carrot, a little mace, a dozen +cloves, a piece of lemon peel, and a sprig of parsley, salt and +pepper; it must be strained before the head is added, fine forcemeat +balls rolled in egg and fried are served in the dish, as well as small +fritters made with the brains; when ready for serving, a glass and +half of white wine and the juice of a lemon are added to the gravy. + + * * * * * + +CALVES-FEET WITH SPANISH SAUCE. + +Having cleaned, boiled and split two fine feet, dip them into egg +and bread crumbs mixed with chopped parsley and chalot, a few ground +cloves, a little nutmeg, pepper and salt, fry them a fine brown, +arrange them in the dish and pour the sauce over. Make the sauce in +the following manner: slice two fine Spanish onions, put them in a +saucepan, with some chopped truffles or mushrooms, a little suet, +cayenne and white pepper, salt, one or two small lumps of white sugar, +and let all simmer in some good strong stock till the gravy has nearly +boiled away, then stir in a wine glass of Madeira wine, and a little +lemon juice; it should then be returned to the saucepan, to be made +thoroughly hot before serving. + + * * * * * + +CALF'S FEET AU FRITUR. + +Simmer them for four hours in water till the meat can be taken easily +from the bone, then cut them in handsome pieces, season with pepper +and salt, dip them in egg, and sprinkle thickly with grated bread +crumbs, and fry of a fine even brown; they may be served dry or with +any sauce that may be approved. + +The liquor should continue to stew with the bones, and can be used for +jelly. + + * * * * * + +CALF'S FEET STEWED FOR INVALIDS. + +Clean and soak a fine foot, put it on in very little water, let it +simmer till tender, then cut it in pieces, without removing the bone, +and continue stewing for three hours, till they become perfectly soft; +if the liquor boils away, add a little more water, but there should +not be more liquor than can be served in the dish with the foot; the +only seasoning requisite is a little salt and white pepper, and a +sprig of parsley, or a pinch of saffron to improve the appearance; a +little delicately-made thin egg sauce, with a flavor of lemon juice, +may be served in a sauce-tureen if approved; sippets of toast or well +boiled rice to garnish the dish, may also be added, and will not be an +unacceptable addition. + + * * * * * + +TENDONS OF VEAL. + +This is a very fine and nutritious dish; cut from the bones of a +breast of veal the tendons which are round the front, trim and blanch +them, put them with slices of smoked beef into a stewpan with some +shavings of veal, a few herbs, a little sliced lemon, two or three +onions, and a little broth; they must simmer for seven or eight hours; +when done, thicken the gravy and add white wine and mushrooms and +egg-balls; a few peas with the tendons will be found excellent, a +piece of mint and a little white sugar will then be requisite. + + * * * * * + +FRICANDEAU OF VEAL. + +Take a piece from the shoulder, about three to four pounds, trim it +and form it into a well shaped even piece, the surface of which should +be quite smooth; _piqué_ it thickly, put it into a stewpan with a +couple of onions, a carrot sliced, sweet herbs, two or three bay +leaves, a large piece of _chorissa_ or a slice of the root of a tongue +smoked, a little whole pepper and salt; cover it with a gravy made +from the trimmings of the veal, and stew till extremely tender, which +can be proved by probing it with a fine skewer, then reduce part of +the gravy to a glaze, glaze the meat with it and serve on a _pureé_ of +vegetables. + + * * * * * + +COLLARED VEAL. + +Remove the bones, gristle, &c., from a nice piece of veal, the breast +is the best part for the purpose; season the meat well with chopped +herbs, mace, pepper, and salt, then lay between the veal slices of +smoked tongue variegated with beetroot, chopped parsley, and hard +yolks of eggs, roll it up tightly in a cloth, simmer for some hours +till tender; when done, it should have a weight laid on it to press +out the liquor. + + * * * * * + +CURRIED VEAL. + +Cut a breast of veal into pieces, fry lightly with a chopped onion, +then rub the veal over with currie powder, put it into a good gravy of +veal and beef, season simply with pepper, salt, and lemon juice. + +Fowls curried are prepared in the same way. + + * * * * * + +CUTLETS. + +Cut them into proper shape and beat them with a roller until the fibre +of the meat is entirely broken; if this is not done, they will be +hard; they must then be covered with egg and sprinkled with flour, or +a preparation for cutlets may be spread over them, and then fry them +of a fine brown, remove the cutlets to a hot dish, and add to the fat +in which the cutlets have been fried, a spoonful of flour, a small cup +of gravy, salt, pepper, and a little lemon juice or lemon pickle. + + * * * * * + +CUTLETS A LA FRANÇAISE. + +French cooks cut them thinner than the English, and trim them into +rounds of the size of a tea-cup; they must be brushed over with egg, +and sprinkled with salt, white pepper, mushroom powder, and grated +lemon peel; put them into a _sauté_ pan and fry of a very light brown; +pieces of bread, smoked meat or tongue cut of the same size as the +cutlets, and prepared in the same manner, are laid alternately in the +dish with them; they should be served without sauce and with a _purée_ +of mushrooms or spinach in the centre of the dish. + + * * * * * + +CUTLETS IN WHITE FRICASSEE. + +Cut them in proper shapes, put them in a veal gravy made with the +trimmings enough to cover them; season delicately, and let them simmer +till quite tender, but not long enough to lose their shape; fresh +button mushrooms and a piece of lemon peel are essential to this dish; +when the meat is done remove it, take all fat from the gravy, and +thicken it with the yolks of two beaten eggs; small balls of forcemeat +in which mushrooms must be minced should be poached in the gravy when +about to be served; the meat must be returned to the saucepan to be +made hot, and when placed in the dish, garnish with thin slices of +lemon. + + * * * * * + +CUTLETS IN BROWN FRICASSEE. + +They must be trimmed as above, fried slightly and stewed in beef +gravy, and seasoned according to the directions given for a brown +fricassee of veal; balls or fritters are always an improvement to the +appearance of this dish. + + * * * * * + +BLANQUETTE OF VEAL. + +Cut into thin pieces of the size of shillings and half crowns, cold +veal or poultry, lay it in a small saucepan with a handful of fresh +well cleaned button mushrooms, pour over a little veal gravy, only +enough to cover them, with a piece of clarified veal fat about the +size of the yolk of a hard boiled egg; flavor with a piece of lemon +peel, very little white pepper and salt, one small lump of white +sugar, and a little nutmeg, stew all together for fifteen minutes, +then pour over a sauce prepared in a separate saucepan, made with veal +gravy, a little lemon juice, but not much, and the beaten yolks of two +eggs, let it simmer for an instant and then serve it up in the centre +of a dish prepared with a wall of mashed potatoes, delicately browned; +a few truffles renders this dish more elegant. + + * * * * * + +MINCED VEAL. + +Cut in small square pieces about the size of dice, cold dressed veal, +put it into a saucepan with a little water or gravy, season simply +with salt, pepper, and grated or minced lemon peel, the mince should +be garnished with sippets of toast. + + * * * * * + +MIROTON OF VEAL. + +Mince finely some cold veal or poultry, add a little grated tongue, +or smoked beef, a few crumbs of bread, sweet herbs, pepper, salt, +parsley, and if approved, essence of lemon, mix all well with two or +three eggs, and a very small quantity of good gravy; grease a mould, +put in the above ingredients and bake for three-quarters of an hour; +turn out with care, and serve with mushroom sauce. + + * * * * * + +FRICONDELLES. + +Prepare cold veal or poultry as in the last receipt, add instead of +crumbs of bread, a French roll soaked in white gravy, mix with it +the same ingredients, and form it into two shapes to imitate small +chickens or sweetbreads; sprinkle with crumbs of bread, and place in a +frying-pan as deep as a shallow saucepan; when they have fried +enough to become set, pour enough weak gravy in the pan to cover the +fricondelles, and let them stew in it gently, place them both in +the same dish, and pour over any well thickened sauce that may be +selected. + + * * * * * + +ANOTHER SORT. + +Prepare four small pieces of veal to serve in one dish, according to +the directions given for fricandeau of veal; these form a very pretty +_entrée_; the pieces of veal should be about the size of pigeons. + + * * * * * + +SMOKED VEAL. + +Take a fine fat thick breast of veal, bone it, lay it in pickle, +according to the receipt to salt meat, hang it for three or four weeks +in wood-smoke, and it will prove a very fine savoury relish, either +boiled and eaten cold, or fried as required. + + * * * * * + +SWEETBREADS ROASTED. + +First soak them in warm water, and then blanch them; in whatever +manner they are to be dressed, this is essential; they may be prepared +in a variety of ways, the simplest is to roast them; for this they +have only to be covered with egg and bread crumbs, seasoned with salt +and pepper, and finished in a Dutch oven or cradle spit, frequently +basting with clarified veal suet; they may be served either dry with a +_purée_ of vegetables, or with a brown gravy. + + * * * * * + +SWEETBREADS STEWED WHITE. + +After soaking and blanching, stew them in veal gravy, and season with +celery, pepper, salt, nutmeg, a little mace, and a piece of lemon +peel, they should be served with a fine white sauce, the gravy in +which they are stewed will form the basis for it, with the addition +of yolks of eggs and mushroom essence; French cooks would adopt the +_velouté_ or _bechamél_ sauce; Jerusalem artichokes cut the size of +button mushrooms, are a suitable accompaniment as a garnish. + + * * * * * + +SWEETBREADS STEWED BROWN. + +After soaking and blanching, fry them till brown, then simmer gently +in beef gravy seasoned highly with smoked meat, nutmeg, pepper, salt, +a small onion stuck with cloves, and a very little whole allspice; +the gravy must be slightly thickened, and morels and truffles are +generally added; small balls of delicate forcemeat are also +an improvement. The above receipts are adapted for sweetbreads +fricasseed, except that they must be cut in pieces for fricassees, and +pieces of meat or poultry are added to them; sweetbreads when dressed +whole look better _piqués_. + + * * * * * + +A DELICATE RECEIPT FOR ROAST MUTTON. + +Put the joint in a saucepan, cover it with cold water, let it boil for +half an hour, have the spit and fire quite ready, and remove the meat +from the saucepan, and place it immediately down to roast, baste it +well, dredge it repeatedly with flour, and sprinkle with salt; +this mode of roasting mutton removes the strong flavor that is so +disagreeable to some tastes. + + * * * * * + +MUTTON STEWED WITH CELERY. + +Take the best end of a neck of mutton, or a fillet taken from the leg +or shoulder, place it in a stewpan with just enough water to cover +it, throw in a carrot and turnip, and season, but not too highly; when +nearly done remove the meat and strain off the gravy, then return both +to the stewpan with forcemeat balls and some fine celery cut in small +pieces; let all stew gently till perfectly done, then stir in the +yolks of two eggs, a little flour, and the juice of half a lemon, +which must be mixed with a little of the gravy before pouring in the +stewpan, and care must be taken to prevent curdling. + + * * * * * + +A SIMPLE WAY OF DRESSING MUTTON. + +Take the fillet off a small leg or shoulder of mutton, rub it well +over with egg and seasoning, and partly roast it, then place it in a +stewpan with a little strong gravy, and stew gently till thoroughly +done; this dish is simple, but exceedingly nice; a few balls or +fritters to garnish will improve it. + + * * * * * + +MAINTENON CUTLETS. + +This is merely broiling or frying cutlets in a greased paper, after +having spread on them a seasoning prepared as follows: make a paste +of bread crumbs, chopped parsley, nutmeg, pepper, salt, grated lemon +peel, and thyme, with a couple of beaten eggs; a piquante sauce should +be served in a tureen. + + * * * * * + +A HARRICOT. + +Cut off the best end of a neck of mutton into chops, flour and partly +fry them, then lay them in a stewpan with carrots, sliced turnips cut +in small round balls, some button onions, and cover with water; skim +frequently, season with pepper and salt to taste, color the gravy with +a little browning and a spoonful of mushroom powder. + + * * * * * + +IRISH STEW. + +Is the same as above, excepting that the meat is not previously fried, +and that potatoes are used instead of turnips and carrots. + + * * * * * + +MUTTON A L'HISPANIOLA. + +Take a small piece of mutton, either part of a shoulder or a fillet +of the leg, partly roast it, then put it in a stewpan with beef gravy +enough to cover it, previously seasoned with herbs, a carrot and +turnip; cut in quarters three large Spanish onions, and place in the +stewpan round the meat; a stuffing will improve it, and care must be +taken to free the gravy from every particle of fat. + + * * * * * + +MUTTON COLLOPS. + +Take from a fine knuckle a couple of slices, cut and trim them in +collops the size of a tea cup, flatten them and spread over each side +a forcemeat for cutlets, and fry them; potatoe or Jerusalem artichokes +cut in slices of the same size and thickness, or pieces of bread +cut with a fluted cutter, prepared as the collops and fried, must be +placed alternately in the dish with them; they may be served with a +pure simple gravy, or very hot and dry on a napkin, garnished with +fried parsley and slices of lemon. + +The knuckle may be used in the following manner: put it on with +sufficient water to cover it, season it and simmer till thoroughly +done, thicken the gravy with prepared barley, and flavor it with lemon +pickle, or capers; it should be slightly colored with saffron, and +celery sauce may be served as an accompaniment, or the mutton may be +served on a fine _purée_ of turnips. + + * * * * * + +MUTTON CUTLETS. + +Have a neck of mutton, cut the bones short, and remove the chine +bone completely; cut chops off so thin that every other one shall be +without bone, trim them carefully, that all the chops shall bear the +same appearance, then flatten them well; cover them with a cutlet +preparation, and fry of a delicate brown; a fine _purée_ of any +vegetable that may be approved, or any sauce that may be selected, +should be served with them; they may be arranged in various ways in +the dish, either round the dish or in a circle in the centre, so that +the small part of the cutlets shall almost meet; if the latter, the +_purée_ should garnish round them instead of being in the centre of +the dish. + + * * * * * + +MUTTON HAM. + +Choose a fine leg of mutton, rub it in daily with a mixture of three +ounces of brown sugar, two ounces of common salt, and half an ounce of +saltpetre, continue this process for a fortnight, then hang it to dry +in wood smoke for ten days longer. + + * * * * * + +LAMB AND SPREW. + +Take a fine neck or breast of lamb, put it in stewpan with as much +water as will cover it, add to it a bundle of sprew cut in pieces of +two inches in length, a small head of celery cut small, and one onion, +pepper, salt, and a sprig of parsley, let it simmer gently till the +meat and sprew are tender; a couple of lumps of sugar improves the +flavor; there should not be too much liquor, and all fat must be +removed; the sprew should surround the meat when served, and also be +thickly laid over it. + + * * * * * + +LAMB AND PEAS. + +Take the best end of a neck of lamb, either keep it whole or divide it +into chops as may be preferred, put it into a saucepan with a little +chopped onion, pepper, salt, and a small quantity of water; when half +done add half a peck of peas, half a lettuce cut fine, a little mint, +and a few lumps of sugar, and let it stew thoroughly; when done, +there must not be too much liquor; cutlets of veal or beef are also +excellent dressed as above. Although this is a spring dish it may be +almost equally well dressed in winter, by substituting small mutton +cutlets and preserved peas, which may be met with at any of the best +Italian warehouses; a breast or neck of lamb may also be stewed whole +in the same manner. + + * * * * * + +LAMB CUTLETS WITH CUCUMBERS. + +Take two fine cucumbers, peel and cut them lengthways, lay them in +vinegar for an hour, then stew them in good stock till tender, when +stir in the yolks of two or three eggs, a little flour and essence of +lemon, which must all be first mixed up together with a little of +the stock, have ready some cutlets trimmed and fried a light brown, +arrange them round the dish and pour the cucumbers in the centre. + + * * * * * + +A NICE RECEIPT FOR SHOULDER OF LAMB. + +Half boil it, score it and squeeze over lemon juice, and cover with +grated bread crumbs, egg and parsley, broil it over a clear fire +and put it to brown in a Dutch oven, or grill and serve with a sauce +seasoned with lemon pickle and chopped mint. + + * * * * * + +A CASSEREET, AN EAST INDIA DISH. + +Take two pounds of lamb chops, or mutton may be substituted, place +them in a stewpan, cover with water or gravy, season only with pepper +and salt, when the chops are half done, carefully skim off the fat +and add two table spoonsful of cassereet, stir it in the gravy which +should not be thickened, and finish stewing gently till done enough; +rice should accompany this dish. + + * * * * * + +TURKEY BONED AND FORCED. + +A turkey thus prepared may be either boiled or roasted; there are +directions for boning poultry which might be given, but it is always +better to let the poulterer do it; when boned it must be filled with a +fine forcemeat, which may be varied in several ways, the basis should +be according to the receipt given for veal stuffings, forcemeats, +sausage meat, tongue, and mushrooms added as approved. When boiled it +is served with any fine white sauce, French cooks use the velouté or +béchamel. When roasted, a cradle spit is very convenient, but if there +is not one the turkey must be carefully tied to the spit. + + * * * * * + +FOWLS BONED AND FORCED. + +The above directions serve also for fowls. + + * * * * * + +A SAVOURY WAY OF ROASTING A FOWL. + +Fill it with a fine seasoning, and just before it is ready for +serving, baste it well with clarified veal suet, and sprinkle it +thickly with very dry crumbs of bread, repeat this two or three times; +then place it in the dish, and serve with a fine brown gravy well +flavored with lemon juice; delicate forcemeat fritters should be also +served in the dish. + + * * * * * + +BOILED FOWLS. + +Are served with a fine white sauce, and are often garnished with +pieces of white cauliflower, or vegetable marrow, the chief object +is to keep them white; it is best to select white legged poultry for +boiling, as they prove whiter when dressed. + + * * * * * + +AMNASTICH. + +Stew gently one pint of rice in one quart of strong gravy till it +begins to swell, then add an onion stuck with cloves, a bunch of sweet +herbs, and a chicken stuffed with forcemeat, let it stew with the rice +till thoroughly done, then take it up and stir in the rice, the yolks +of four eggs, and the juice of a lemon; serve the fowl in the same +dish with the rice, which should be colored to a fine yellow with +saffron. + + * * * * * + +FOWLS STEWED WITH RICE AND CHORISA. + +Boil a fowl in sufficient water or gravy to cover it, when boiling for +ten minutes, skim off the fat and add half a pound of rice, and one +pound of _chorisa_ cut in about four pieces, season with a little +white pepper, salt, and a pinch of saffron to color it, and then stew +till the rice is thoroughly tender; there should be no gravy when +served, but the rice ought to be perfectly moist. + + * * * * * + +CURRIED CHICKEN. + +See curried veal. Undressed chicken is considered best for a curry, +it must be cut in small joints, the directions for curried veal are +equally adapted for fowls. + + * * * * * + +A NICE METHOD OF DRESSING FOWL AND SWEETBREAD. + +Take a fowl and blanch it, also a fine sweet bread, parboil them, then +cut off in smooth well shaped slices, all the white part of the fowl, +and slice the sweetbread in similar pieces, place them together in a +fine well-flavoured veal gravy; when done, serve neatly in the dish, +and pour over a fine white sauce, any that may be approved, the +remainder of the fowl must be cut up in small joints or pieces, not +separated from the bone, and fried to become brown, then place them in +a stew-pan with forcemeat balls, truffles, and morels; pour over half +or three quarters of a pint of beef gravy, and simmer till finished; a +little mushroom ketchup, or lemon-pickle may be added; in this manner +two very nice _entrées_ may be formed. + + * * * * * + +BLANKETTE OF FOWL. + +See blankette of veal. + + * * * * * + +TO STEW DUCK WITH GREEN PEAS. + +Stuff and half roast a duck, then put it into a stew-pan with an onion +sliced, a little mint and about one pint of beef gravy, add after it +has simmered half an hour, a quart of green peas, and simmer another +half hour; a little lump sugar is requisite. + + * * * * * + +TO WARM COLD POULTRY. + +Cut up the pieces required to be dressed, spread over them a seasoning +as for cutlets, and fry them; pour over a little good gravy, and +garnish with sippets of toast and sliced lemon, or place them in an +edging of rice or mashed potatoes. + + * * * * * + +BROILED FOWL AND MUSHROOMS. + +Truss a fine fowl as if for boiling, split it down the back, and broil +gently; when nearly done, put it in a stewpan with a good gravy, add +a pint of fresh button mushrooms, season to taste; a little mushroom +powder and lemon juice improve the flavour. + + * * * * * + +PIGEONS. + +To have a good appearance they should be larded and stuffed; glazing +is also an improvement, they form a nice _entrée_; they may be stewed +in a strong gravy; when done enough, remove the pigeons, thicken the +gravy, add a few forcemeat and egg balls, and serve in the dish with +the pigeons. Or they may be split down the back, broiled, and then +finished in the stew-pan. + + * * * * * + +STEWED GIBLETS. + +Scald one or more sets of giblets, set them on the fire with a little +veal or chicken, or both, in a good gravy; season to taste, thicken +the gravy, and color it with browning, flavor with mushroom powder +and lemon-juice and one glass of white wine; forcemeat balls should +be added a few minutes before serving, and garnish with thin slices of +hard boiled eggs. + + * * * * * + +DUTCH TOAST. + +Take the remains of any cold poultry or meat, mince it and season +highly; add to it any cold dressed vegetable, mix it up with one or +more eggs, and let it simmer till hot in a little gravy; have ready +a square of toast, and serve it on it; squeeze over a little +lemon-juice, and sprinkle with white pepper. Vegetables prepared +in this way are excellent; cauliflower simmered in chicken broth, +seasoned delicately and minced on toast, is a nutritive good luncheon +for an invalid. + + * * * * * + +TIMBALE DE MACCARONI. + +This is a very pretty dish. The maccaroni must be boiled in water till +it slightly swells, and is soft enough to cut; it must be cut into +short pieces about two inches in length. Grease a mould, and stick the +maccaroni closely together all over the mould; when this is done, and +which will require some patience, fill up the space with friccassee +of chicken, sweetbreads, or whatever may be liked; close the mould +carefully, and boil. Rich white sauce is usually served with it, +but not poured over the timbale, as it would spoil the effect of the +honeycomb appearance, which is very pretty. + + * * * * * + +A SAVOURY PIE FOR PERSONS OF DELICATE DIGESTION. + +Cut up fowl and sweetbread, lay in the dish in alternate layers with +meat, jelly, and the yolks of hard-boiled eggs without the whites, +and flavor with lemon-juice, white pepper, and salt; cover with rice +prepared as follows: boil half a pound of rice in sufficient water to +permit it to swell; when tender beat it up to a thick paste with the +yolk of one or two eggs, season with a little salt, and spread it over +the dish thickly. The fowl and sweetbread should have been previously +simmered till half done in a little weak broth; the pie must be baked +in a gentle oven, and if the rice will not brown sufficiently, finish +with a salamander. + + * * * * * + +DESCAIDES. + +Take the livers of chickens or any other poultry; stew it gently in +a little good gravy seasoned with a little onion, mushroom essence, +pepper, and salt; when tender, remove the livers, place them on a +paste board, and mince them; return them to the saucepan, and stir +in the yolks of one or two eggs, according to the quantity of liver, +until the gravy becomes thick; have a round of toast ready on a hot +plate, and serve it on the toast; this is a very nice luncheon or +supper dish. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + + +Vegetables and Sundries. + +DIRECTIONS FOR CLEANING AND BOILING VEGETABLES. + +Vegetables are extremely nutritious when sufficiently boiled, but are +unwholesome and indigestible when not thoroughly dressed; still they +should not be over boiled, or they will lose their flavor. + +Vegetables should be shaken to get out any insects, and laid in water +with a little salt. + +Soft water is best suited for boiling vegetables, and they require +plenty of water; a little salt should be put in the saucepan with +them, and the water should almost invariably be boiling when they are +put in. + +Potatoes are much better when steamed. Peas and several other +vegetables are also improved by this mode of cooking them, although it +is seldom adopted in England. + + * * * * * + +MASHED POTATOES. + +Boil till perfectly tender; let them be quite dry, and press them +through a cullender, or mash and beat them well with a fork; add a +piece of butter, and milk, or cream, and continue beating till they +are perfectly smooth; return them to the saucepan to warm, or they may +be browned before the fire. The chief art is to beat them sufficiently +long, which renders them light. + +Potatoe balls are mashed potatoes formed into balls glazed with the +yolk of egg, and browned with a salamander. + + * * * * * + +POTATO WALL, OR EDGING. + +Raise a wall of finely-mashed potatoes, of two or three inches high, +round the dish; form it with a spoon to the shape required, brush it +over with egg, and put it in the oven to become hot and brown; if it +does not brown nicely, use the salamander. Rice is arranged the +same way to edge curries or fricassees; it must be first boiled till +tender. + + * * * * * + +POTATOE SHAVINGS. + +Take four fine large potatoes, and having peeled them, continue to cut +them up as if peeling them in ribbons of equal width; then throw the +shavings into a frying-pan, and fry of a fine brown; they must be +constantly moved with a silver fork to keep the pieces separate. They +should be laid on a cloth to drain, and placed in the dish lightly. + + * * * * * + +THE FRENCH WAY OF DRESSING SPINACH. + +Wash and boil till tender, then squeeze and strain it; press it in +a towel till almost dry; put it on a board, and chop it as finely as +possible; then return it to the saucepan, with butter, pepper, and +salt; stir it all the time, and let it boil fast. + + * * * * * + +STEWED SPINACH. + +Scald and chop some spinach small; cut up an onion; add pepper and +salt and brown sugar, with a little vinegar, stew all together gently; +serve with poached eggs or small forcemeat fritters. This forms a +pretty side-dish, and is also a nice way of dressing spinach to serve +in the same dish with cutlets. + + * * * * * + +TO STEW SPANISH BEANS AND PEAS. + +Soak the beans over night in cold water; they must be stewed in only +sufficient water to cover them, with two table spoonsful of oil, a +little pepper and salt, and white sugar. When done they should be +perfectly soft and tender. + + * * * * * + +PEAS STEWED WITH OIL. + +Put half a peck of peas into a stew-pan, half a lettuce chopped small, +a little mint, a small onion cut up, two table-spoonsful of oil, and a +dessert-spoonful of powdered sugar, with water sufficient to cover the +peas, watching, from time to time, that they do not become too +dry; let them stew gently, taking care that they do not burn, till +perfectly soft. When done they should look of a yellowish brown. + +French beans, brocoli, and greens, stewed in the above manner will be +found excellent. + + * * * * * + +CUCUMBER MANGO. + +Cut a large cucumber in half, length ways, scoop out the seedy part, +and lay it in vinegar that has been boiled with mustard-seed, a little +garlic, and spices, for twenty-four hours, then fill the cucumber with +highly-seasoned forcemeat, and stew it in a rich gravy, the cucumber +must be tied to keep it together. + + * * * * * + +CABBAGE AND RICE. + +Scald till tender a fine summer white cabbage, then chop it up small, +and put it into a stewpan, with a large cup of rice, also previously +scalded, add a little water, a large piece of butter, salt and pepper; +let it stew gently till thoroughly done, stirring from time to time, +and adding water and butter to prevent its getting too thick; there +should be no gravy in the dish when served. + + * * * * * + +PALESTINE SALAD. + +Take a dozen fine Jerusalem artichokes, boil till tender, let the +water strain off, and when cold cut them in quarters, and pour over +a fine salad mixture; the artichokes should lay in the sauce half an +hour before serving. This salad is a very refreshing one, and has the +advantage of being extremely wholesome. + + * * * * * + +A SPRING DISH. + +Take one quart of young peas, a little mint, a few lumps of sugar, a +little salt and white pepper, simmer them gently in one pint of water, +when the peas are half done, throw in small dumplings made of paste, +as if for short crust, and sweetened with a little brown sugar, beat +up two eggs, and drop in a spoonful at a time, just before serving; +it will require a deep dish, as the liquor is not to be strained off. +Some prefer the eggs poached. + + * * * * * + +CARROTS AU BEURRE. + +Boil them enough to be perfectly tender, then cut them in quarters, +and again in lengths of three inches, drain them from the water, and +put to them a piece of butter, salt and pepper, and simmer them for a +few minutes without boiling; a large piece of butter must be used. + +French beans are good dressed in the same way. + + * * * * * + +PUREE OF VEGETABLES. + +Take any vegetable that may be approved, boil till well done, drain +away all water, reduce the vegetable to a pulp, and add to it any fine +sauce, to make it of the consistency of a very thick custard. + + * * * * * + +JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES FRIED. + +Cut in slices after parboiling them, dip in batter, and fry. + + * * * * * + +STEWED RED CABBAGE. + +Clean and remove the outer leaves, slice it as thinly as possible, put +it in a saucepan with a large piece of butter, and a tea cup full of +water, salt and pepper; let it stew slowly till very tender. + + * * * * * + +MUSHROOMS AU NATUREL. + +Clean some fine fresh mushrooms, put them in a saucepan with a large +piece of butter, pepper and salt; let them simmer until tender, and +serve them with no other sauce than that in which they have been +dressed. Also stewed in a veal gravy, and served with white sauce on a +toast, they form a nice and pretty dish. + +The large flap mushrooms may be stewed in gravy, or simply broiled, +seasoned with cayenne pepper, salt, and lemon juice. + + * * * * * + +DRY TOMATO SOUP. + +Brown a couple of onions in a little oil, about two table-spoonsful +or more, according to the number of tomatos; when hot, add about six +tomatos cut and peeled, season with cayenne pepper and salt, and let +the whole simmer for a short time, then cut thin slices of bread, and +put as much with the tomatos as will bring them to the consistency +of a pudding; it must be well beaten up, stir in the yolks of two or +three eggs, and two ounces of butter warmed; turn the whole into a +deep dish and bake it very brown. Crumbs of bread should be strewed +over the top, and a little warmed butter poured over. + + * * * * * + +DEVILLED BISCUITS. + +Butter some biscuits on both sides, and pepper them well, make a paste +of either chopped anchovies, or fine cheese, and spread it on the +biscuit, with mustard and cayenne pepper, and grill them. + + * * * * * + +SAVOURY EGGS. + +Boil some eggs hard, put them into cold water, cut them into halves, +take out the yolks, beat them up in a mortar with grated hung beef, +fill the halves with this mixture, fry lightly, and serve with brown +gravy. + + * * * * * + +SAVOURY CHEESE CAKES. + +Grate finely an equal quantity of stale bread and good cheese, season +with a little pepper and salt, mix into a batter with eggs, form into +thin cakes and fry. + + * * * * * + +SCALLOPED EGGS. + +Poach lightly three or four eggs, place them in a dish, pour upon them +a little warm butter; sprinkle with pepper, salt, and nutmeg, strew +over with crumbs of bread, and brown before the fire. + + * * * * * + +MACCARONI AND CHEESE. + +Boil some maccaroni in milk or water until tender, then drain them and +place on a dish with bits of butter and grated Parmesan cheese; when +the dish is filled grate more cheese over it and brown before the +fire. + + * * * * * + +A FINE RECEIPT FOR A SAVOURY OMELETTE. + +Break four eggs, beat them up till thin enough to pass through a +hair sieve, then beat them up till perfectly smooth and thin; a small +omelette frying-pan is necessary for cooking it well. Dissolve in it +a piece of butter, about an ounce and a half, pour in the egg, and as +soon as it rises and is firm, slide it on to a warm plate and fold +it over; it should only be fried on one side, and finely minced herbs +should be sprinkled over the unfried side with pepper and salt. A +salamander is frequently held over the unfried side of the omelette to +take off the rawness it may otherwise have. + + * * * * * + +CHORISA OMELETTE. + +Add to the eggs, after they are well beaten as directed in the last +receipt, half a tea-cup full of finely minced _chorisa_; this omelette +must be lightly fried on both sides, or the salamander held over long +enough to dress the _chorisa_. + + * * * * * + +RAMAKINS. + +Mix together three eggs, one ounce of warmed butter, and two of fine +cheese grated, and bake in small patty pans. + + * * * * * + +RISSOLES. + +Make a fine forcemeat of any cold meat, poultry, or fish, enclose it +in a very rich puff paste, rolled out extremely thin. They may be made +into balls or small triangular turnovers, or into long narrow ribbons; +the edges must be pressed together, that they may not burst in frying. +They form a pretty dish. + + * * * * * + +CROQUETTES. + +Pound any cold poultry, meat, or fish, make it into a delicate +forcemeat; the flavor can be varied according to taste; minced +mushrooms, herbs, parsley, grated lemon peel, are suitable for poultry +and veal; minced anchovies should be used instead of mushrooms when +the croquettes are made of fish. Form the mixture into balls or oval +shapes the size of small eggs; dip them into beaten eggs, thickly +sprinkle with bread crumbs or pounded vermicelli, and fry of a +handsome brown. + + * * * * * + +CASSEROLE AU RIZ. + +Boil some rice till quite tender, make it into a firm paste with one +egg and a couple of tablespoons of strong gravy; then line the inside +of a mould with the paste of sufficient thickness to turn out without +breaking. Some cooks fill the mould instead of lining it only, and +scoop away the centre. After it is turned out the rice must stand till +cold, before it is removed from the mould; then fill the rice with +friccassee of fowl and sweetbread, with a rich white sauce, and place +it in the oven to become hot and brown. The mould used for a casserole +is oval and fluted, and resembles a cake mould. It is as well to +observe, it cannot be made in a jelly mould. + + * * * * * + +A FONDU. + +Make into a batter one ounce and a half of potatoe flour, with the +same quantity of grated cheese and of butter, and a quarter of a +pint of milk or cream; add a little salt, very little pepper, and the +well-beaten yolks of four fine fresh eggs; when all this is well mixed +together, pour in the whites of the eggs, well whisked to a froth; +pour the mixture into a deep soup plate or dish, used expressly for +the purpose, and bake in a moderate oven. The dish should be only half +filled with the _fondu_, as it will rise very high. It must be served +the moment it is ready, or it will fall. It is a good plan to hold a +salamander over it while being brought to table. + + * * * * * + +PETITS FONDEAUS. + +Make a batter as for a fondu, but use rice flour or arrow root instead +of potatoe flour; add the egg in the same manner as for a fondu, and +pour the mixture into small paper trays fringed round the top. The +mixture should only half fill the trays or cases. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + + +Pastry. + +DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING PASTE. + +To make good light paste requires much practice; as it is not only +from the proportions, but from the manner of mixing the various +ingredients, that paste acquires its good or bad qualities. + +Paste should be worked up very lightly, and no strength or pressure +used; it should be rolled out _from you_, as lightly as possible. A +marble slab is better than a board to make paste on. + +The flour should be dried for some time before the fire previously to +being used. In forming it into paste it should be wetted as little as +possible, to prevent its being tough. It is a great mistake to imagine +_lard_ is better adapted for pastry than butter or clarified fat; it +may make the paste lighter, but neither the color nor the flavor will +be nearly so good, and the saving is extremely trifling. + +To ensure lightness, paste should be set in the oven directly it is +made. + +Puff paste requires a brisk oven. + +Butter should be added to the paste in small pieces. + +The more times the paste is folded and rolled, if done with a light +hand and the butter added with skill, the richer and lighter it will +prove. It is no longer customary to line the dish for pies and fruit +tarts. + + * * * * * + +PLAIN PUFF PASTE. + +Mix a pound of flour into a stiff paste with a little water, first +having rubbed into it about two ounces of butter, then roll it out; +add by degrees the remainder of the butter (there should be altogether +half a pound of butter), fold the paste and roll about two or three +times. + + * * * * * + +VERY RICH PUFF PASTE. + +Mix in the same manner equal quantities of butter and flour, taking +care to have the flour dried for a short time before the fire; it may +be folded and rolled five or six times. This paste is well suited to +vol-au-vents and tartlets; an egg well beaten and mixed with the paste +is sometimes added. + + * * * * * + +PLAIN SHORT CRUST. + +Put half a pound of fresh butter to a pound of flour, add the yolks of +two eggs and a little powdered sugar, mix into a paste with water, and +roll out once. + + * * * * * + +EGG PASTE, CALLED IN MODERN COOKERY NOUILLES. + +This is formed by making a paste of flour and beaten eggs, without +either butter or water; it must be rolled out extremely thin and left +to dry; it may then be cut into narrow strips or stamped with paste +cutters. It is more fashionable in soups than vermicelli. + + * * * * * + +BEEF DRIPPING PASTE. + +Mix half a pound of clarified dripping into one pound of flour; work +it into a paste with water, and roll out twice. This is a good paste +for a common meat pie. + + * * * * * + +GLAZE FOR PASTRY. + +When the pastry is nearly baked, brush it over with white of egg, +cover it thickly with sifted sugar, and brown it in the oven, or it +may be browned with a salamander. + +For savory pies beat the yolk of an egg, dip a paste-brush into it, +and lay it on the crust before baking. + + * * * * * + +FRUIT TARTS OR PIES. + +A fruit tart is so common a sweet that it is scarcely necessary to +give any directions concerning it. Acid fruits are best stewed before +putting into a pie: the usual proportions are half a pound of sugar +to a quart of fruit--not quite so much if the fruit is ripe; the fruit +should be laid high in the middle of the dish, to make the pie a good +shape. It is the fashion to lay over the crust, when nearly baked, +an icing of the whites of eggs whisked with sugar; the tart or pie is +then replaced in the oven. + + * * * * * + +A VERY FINE SAVOURY PIE. + +Lay a fine veal cutlet, cut in pieces and seasoned, at the bottom of +the dish; lay over it a layer of smoked beef fat, then a layer of fine +cold jelly made from gravy-beef and veal, then hard boiled eggs in +slices, then chicken or sweetbread, and then again the jelly, and +so on till the dish is filled; put no water, and season highly with +lemon-juice, essence of mushroom, pepper, salt, and nutmeg; also, +if approved, a blade of mace: small cakes of fine forcemeat are an +improvement; cover with a fine puff paste, and brush over with egg, +and bake. + + * * * * * + +TARTLETS. + +Make a very rich light puff paste, and roll it out to half an inch of +thickness; it should be cut with fluted paste-cutters, lightly baked, +and the centre scooped out afterwards, and the sweetmeat or jam +inserted; a pretty dish of pastry may be made by cutting the paste in +ribbons of three inches in length, and one and a half in width; bake +them lightly, and pile them one upon another, with jam between each, +in the form of a cone. + + * * * * * + +CHEESECAKES. + +Warm four ounces of butter, mix it with the same quantity of +loaf-sugar sifted, grate in the rind of three lemons, squeeze in +the juice of one, add three well-beaten eggs, a little nutmeg, and +a spoonful of brandy; put this mixture into small tins lined with a +light puff paste, and bake. + +Cheesecakes can be varied by putting almonds beaten instead of the +lemon, or by substituting Seville oranges, and adding a few slices of +candied orange and lemon peel. + + * * * * * + +GIBLET PIE. + +Prepare the giblets as for "_stewed giblets_" they should then be laid +in a deep dish, covered with a puff paste, and baked. + + * * * * * + +MOLINA PIE. + +Mince finely cold veal or chicken, with smoked beef or tongue; season +well, add lemon-juice and a little nutmeg, let it simmer in a small +quantity of good beef or veal gravy; while on the fire, stir in the +yolks of four eggs, put it in a dish to cool, and then cover with a +rich pastry, and bake it. + + * * * * * + +VOL AU VENT. + +This requires the greatest lightness in the pastry, as all depends +upon its rising when baked; it should be rolled out about an inch and +a half in thickness, cut it with a fluted tin of the size of the dish +in which it is to be served. Also cut a smaller piece, which must be +rolled out considerably thinner than an inch, to serve as a lid for +the other part; bake both pieces, and when done, scoop out the +crumb of the largest, and fill it with a white fricassee of chicken, +sweetbread, or whatever may be selected; the sauce should be well +thickened, or it would soften, and run through the crust. + + * * * * * + +A VOL-AU-VENT OF FRUIT. + +It is now the fashion to fill _vol-au-vents_ with fruits richly stewed +with sugar until the syrup is almost a jelly; it forms a very pretty +entremêt. + + * * * * * + +PETITS VOL-AU-VENTS. + +These are made in the same way, but cut in small rounds, the crumb +of the larger is scooped out, and the hollow filled with any of the +varieties of patty preparations or preserved fruits. + + * * * * * + +MINCE PIES. + +Grease and line tin patty-pans with a fine puff paste rolled out thin; +fill them with mince-meat, cover them with another piece of paste, +moisten the edges, close them carefully, cut them evenly round, and +bake them about half an hour in a well-heated oven. + + * * * * * + +PATTY MEATS + +May be prepared from any dressed materials, such as cold dressed veal, +beef and mutton, poultry, sweetbreads, and fish; the chief art is to +mince them properly, and give them the appropriate flavor and sauce; +for veal, sweetbreads, and poultry, which may be used together or +separately, the usual seasonings are mace, nutmeg, white pepper, salt, +mushrooms minced, or in powder, lemon-peel, and sometimes the juice also; +the mince is warmed in a small quantity of white sauce, not too thin, +and the patty crusts, when ready baked, are filled with it. + +For beef and mutton the seasonings are salt, pepper, allspice, a few +sweet herbs powdered, with the addition, if approved, of a little +ketchup; the mince must be warmed in strong well-thickened beef gravy. + +If the mince is of fish, season with anchovy sauce, nutmeg, +lemon-peel, pepper and salt; warm it, in a sauce prepared with butter, +flour, and milk or cream, worked together smoothly and stirred till +it thickens; the mince is then simmered in it for a few minutes, till +hot; the seasonings may be put with the sauces, instead of with the +mince. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + + +Sweet Dishes, Puddings, Cakes, &c. + +GENERAL REMARKS. + +The freshness of all ingredients for puddings is of great importance. + +Dried fruits should be carefully picked, and sometimes washed and +should then be dried. Rice, sago, and all kinds of seed should be +soaked and well washed before they are mixed into puddings. + +Half an hour should be allowed for boiling a bread pudding in a half +pint basin, and so on in proportion. + +All puddings of the custard kind require gentle boiling, and when +baked must be set in a moderate oven. By whisking to a solid froth the +whites of the eggs used for any pudding, and stirring them into it at +the moment of placing it in the oven, it will become exceedingly light +and rise high in the dish. + +All baked puddings should be baked in tin moulds in the form of a deep +pie dish, but slightly fluted, it should be well greased by pouring +into it a little warmed butter, and then turned upside down for a +second, to drain away the superfluous butter; then sprinkle, equally +all over, sifted white sugar, or dried crumbs of bread, then pour the +pudding mixture into the mould; it should, when served, be turned +out of the mould, when it will look rich and brown, and have the +appearance of a cake. + +To ensure the lightness of cakes, it is necessary to have all the +ingredients placed for an hour or more before the fire, that they may +all be warm and of equal temperature; without this precaution, cakes +will be heavy even when the best ingredients are employed. Great +care and experience are required in the management of the oven; to +ascertain when a cake is sufficiently baked, plunge a knife into it, +draw it instantly away, when, if the blade is sticky, return the cake +to the oven; if, on the contrary, it appears unsoiled the cake is +ready. + +The lightness of cakes depends upon the ingredients being beaten +well together. All stiff cakes may be beaten with the hand, but pound +cakes, sponge, &c., should be beaten with a whisk or spoon. + + * * * * * + +BOLA D'AMOR. + +The recipe for this much celebrated and exquisite confection is +simpler than may be supposed from its elaborate appearance, it +requires chiefly care, precision, and attention. Clarify two pounds of +white sugar; to ascertain when it is of a proper consistency, drop a +spoonful in cold water, form it into a ball, and try if it sounds +when struck against a glass; when it is thus tested, take the yolks +of twenty eggs, mix them up gently and pass them through a sieve, +then have ready a funnel, the hole of which must be about the size of +vermicelli; hold the funnel over the sugar, while it is boiling over a +charcoal fire; pour the eggs through, stirring the sugar all the time, +and taking care to hold the funnel at such a distance from the sugar, +as to admit of the egg dropping into it. When the egg has been a few +minutes in the sugar, it will be hard enough to take out with a silver +fork, and must then be placed on a drainer; continue adding egg to +the boiling sugar till enough is obtained; there should be previously +prepared one pound of sweet almonds, finely pounded and boiled in +sugar, clarified with orange flower-water only; place in a dish a +layer of this paste, over which spread a layer of citron cut in thin +slices, and then a thick layer of the egg prepared as above; continue +working thus in alternate layers till high enough to look handsome. +It should be piled in the form of a cone, and the egg should form the +last layer. It must then be placed in a gentle oven till it becomes +a little set, and the last layer slightly crisp; a few minutes will +effect this. It must be served in the dish in which it is baked, and +is generally ornamented with myrtle and gold and silver leaf. + + * * * * * + +BOLA TOLIEDO. + +Take one pound of butter, and warm it over the fire with a little +milk, then put it into a pan with one pound of flour, six beaten eggs, +a quarter of a pound of beaten sweet almonds, and two table-spoonsful +of yeast; make these ingredients into a light paste, and set it before +the fire to rise; then grease a deep dish, and place in a layer of +the paste, then some egg prepared as for Bola d'Amor, then slices +of citron, and a layer of egg marmalade, sprinkle each layer with +cinnamon, and fill the dish with alternate layers. A rich puff paste +should line the dish, which ought to be deep; bake in a brisk oven, +after which, sugar clarified with orange flour-water must be poured +over till the syrup has thoroughly penetrated the Bola. + + * * * * * + +A BOLA D'HISPANIOLA. + +Take one pound and a half of flour, with three spoonsful of yeast, two +ounces of fresh butter, one table spoonful of essence of lemon, eight +eggs, and half a tea-cup full of water, and make it into a light +dough, set it to rise for about an hour, then roll it out and cut +it into three pieces; have previously ready, a quarter of a pound of +citron, and three quarters of a pound of orange and lemon peel, cut in +thin slices, mixed with powdered sugar and cinnamon; the Bola should +be formed with the pieces of dough, layers of the fruit being placed +between; it should not be baked in a tin. Powdered sweet almonds and +sugar, should be strewed over it before baking. + + * * * * * + +SUPERIOR RECEIPT FOR ALMOND PUDDING. + +Beat up the yolks of ten eggs, and the whites of seven; add half a +pound of sweet almonds pounded finely, half a pound of white sugar, +half an ounce of bitter almonds, and a table-spoonful of orange flower +water, when thoroughly mixed, grease a dish, put in the pudding and +bake in a brisk oven; when done, strew powdered sugar over the top, +or, which is exceedingly fine, pour over clarified sugar with orange +flower water. + + * * * * * + +GERMAN OR SPANISH PUFFS. + +Put a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and a tea-cup full of cold +water into a saucepan, when the butter is melted, stir in, while on +the fire, four table spoonsful of flour; when thoroughly mixed, put +it in a dish to cool, and then add four well beaten eggs; butter some +cups, half fill them with the batter, bake in a quick oven and serve +with clarified sugar. + + * * * * * + +A LUCTION, OR A RACHAEL. + +Make a thin nouilles paste, cut into strips of about two inches wide, +leave it to dry, then boil the strips in a little water, and drain +through a cullender; when the water is strained off, mix it with +beaten eggs, white sugar, a little fresh butter, and grated lemon +peel; bake or boil in a shape lined with preserved cherries, when +turned out pour over a fine custard, or cream, flavored with brandy, +and sweetened to taste. + + * * * * * + +PRENESAS. + +Take one pint of milk, stir in as much flour as will bring it to the +consistency of hasty pudding; boil it till it becomes thick, let it +cool, and beat it up with ten eggs; when smooth, take a spoonful at a +time, and drop it into a frying-pan, in which there is a good quantity +of boiling clarified butter, fry of a light brown, and serve with +clarified sugar, flavored with lemon essence. + + * * * * * + +SOPA D'ORO: OR GOLDEN SOUP. + +Clarify a pound of sugar in a quarter of a pint of water, and the same +quantity of orange flower-water; cut into pieces the size of dice +a thin slice of toasted bread, or cut it into shapes with a paste +cutter, throw it, while hot, into the sugar, with an ounce of sweet +almonds pounded very finely, then take the beaten yolks of four eggs. +Pour over the sugar and bread, stir gently, and let it simmer a few +minutes. Serve in a deep glass dish, sprinkled over with pounded +cinnamon. + + * * * * * + +POMMES FRITES. + +This is a simple but very nice way of preparing apples. Peel and cut +five fine apples in half, dip them in egg and white powdered sugar, +and fry in butter; when done, strew a little white sugar over them. + + * * * * * + +CHEJADOS. + +Clarify a pound of sugar in half a pint of water; peel and grate a +moderately sized cocoa nut, add it to the syrup, and let it simmer +till perfectly soft, putting rose water occasionally to prevent its +becoming too dry; stir it continually to prevent burning. Let it cool, +and mix it with the beaten yolks of six eggs; make a thin nouilles +pastry, cut it into rounds of the size of a tea-cup; pinch up the +edges deep enough to form a shape, fill them with the sweet meat, and +bake of a light brown. A rich puff paste may be substituted for the +nouilles pastry if preferred. + + * * * * * + +COCOA NUT DOCE. + +This is merely the cocoa nut and sugar prepared as above, without egg, +and served in small glasses, or baked. + + * * * * * + +COCOA NUT PUDDING. + +Take about half a pound of finely grated cocoa nut; beat up to a cream +half a pound of fresh butter, add it to the cocoa nut, with half a +pound of white sugar, and six whites of eggs beaten to a froth; mix +the whole well together, and bake in a dish lined with a rich puff +paste. + + * * * * * + +EGG MARMALADE. + +Clarify one pound of sugar in half a pint of water till it becomes a +thick syrup. While clarifying, add one ounce of sweet almonds blanched +and pounded; let it cool, and stir in gently the yolks of twenty eggs +which have been previously beaten and passed through a sieve; great +care must be taken to stir it continually the same way; when well +mixed, place it over a slow fire till it thickens, stirring all the +time to prevent burning. Some cooks add vanilla, considering the +flavor an improvement. + + * * * * * + +MACROTES. + +Take one pound of French roll dough, six ounces of fresh butter, two +eggs, and as much flour as will be requisite to knead it together; +roll in into the form of a long French roll, and cut it in thin round +slices; set them at a short distance from the fire to rise, and then +fry in the best Florence oil; when nearly cold, dip them in clarified +sugar, flavored with essence of lemon. + + * * * * * + +TART DE MOY. + +Soak three-quarters of a pound of savoy biscuits in a quart of milk; +add six ounces of fresh butter, four eggs, one ounce of candid orange +peel, the same quantity of lemon peel, and one ounce of citron, mix +all well together; sweeten with white sugar, and bake in a quick oven; +when nearly done, spread over the top the whites of the eggs well +whisked, and return it to the oven. + + * * * * * + +GRIMSTICH. + +Make into a stiff paste one pint of biscuit powder, a little brown +sugar, grated lemon peel, six eggs, and three-quarters of a pound +of warmed fresh butter; then prepare four apples chopped finely, a +quarter of a pound of sweet almonds blanched and chopped, half a pound +of stoned raisins, a little nutmeg grated, half a pound of coarse +brown sugar, and a glass of white wine, or a little brandy; mix the +above ingredients together, and put them on a slow fire to simmer for +half an hour, and place in a dish to cool; make the paste into the +form of small dumplings, fill them with the fruit, and bake them; when +put in the oven, pour over a syrup of brown sugar and water, flavored +with lemon juice. + + * * * * * + +FRENCH ROLL FRITTERS. + +Take off the crust of a long round French roll; cut the crumb in thin +slices, soak them in boiling milk, taking care they do not break; have +a dish ready with several eggs beaten up, and with a fish slice remove +the bread from the milk, letting the milk drain off, dip them into the +dish of eggs, and half fry them in fine salad oil, they must then +be again soaked in the milk and dipped the egg, and then fried of a +handsome light brown; while hot, pour over clarified sugar, flavored +with cinnamon and orange flower water. + + * * * * * + +HAMAN'S FRITTERS. + +Take two spoonful of the best Florence oil, scald it, and when hot, +mix with it one pound of flour, add four beaten eggs and make it into +a paste, roll it out thin and cut it into pieces about four inches +square, let them dry and fry them in oil; the moment the pieces are +put in the frying pan, they must be drawn up with two silver skewers +into different forms according to fancy; a few minutes is sufficient +to fry them, they should be crisp when done. + + * * * * * + +WAFLERS. + +Mix a cup and a half of thick yeast with a little warm milk, and set +it with two pounds of flour before the fire to rise, then mix with +them one pound of fresh butter, ten eggs, a grated nutmeg, a quarter +of a pint of orange flower-water, a little powdered cinnamon, and +three pints of warm milk; when the batter is perfectly smooth, butter +the irons, fill them with it, close them down tightly, and put them +between the bars of a bright clear fire; when sufficiently done, they +will slip easily out of the irons. + +Wafler irons are required and can be obtained at any good ironmongers +of the Hebrew persuasion. + + * * * * * + +LAMPLICH. + +Take half a pound of currants, the same quantity of raisins and sugar, +a little citron, ground cloves and cinnamon, with eight apples finely +chopped; mix all together, then have ready a rich puff paste cut into +small triangles, fill them with the fruit like puffs, and lay them in +a deep dish, let the pieces be placed closely, and when the dish is +full, pour over one ounce of fresh butter melted in a tea-cup full of +clarified sugar, flavoured with essence of lemon, and bake in an oven +not too brisk. + + * * * * * + +STAFFIN. + +This is composed of the fruit, &c., prepared as above, but the dish +is lined with the paste, and the fruit laid in alternate layers with +paste till the dish is filled; the paste must form the top layer, +clarified sugar is poured over before it is put into the oven. + + * * * * * + +RICE FRITTERS. + +Boil half a pound of rice, in a small quantity of water, to a jelly; +let it cool, and beat it up with six eggs, three spoonsful of flour, a +little grated lemon peel, fry like fritters, either in butter or oil, +and serve with white sugar sifted over them. + + * * * * * + +LEMON TART. + +Grate the peel of six lemons, add the juice of one, with a quarter of +a pound of pounded almonds, a quarter of a pound of preserved lemon +and orange peel, half a pound of powdered white sugar, and six eggs +well beaten, mix all together, and bake in a dish lined with a fine +pastry. + + * * * * * + +ANOTHER WAY. + +Slice six lemons and lay them in sugar all night, then mix with them +two savoy biscuits, three ounces of orange and lemon peel, three +ounces of ground almonds, one ounce of whole almonds blanched, and +bake in a dish lined with pastry. Orange tarts are prepared in the +same way, substituting oranges for the lemons. + + * * * * * + +ALMOND RICE. + +Boil half a pound of whole rice in milk until soft, beat it through +a sieve, set it on the fire, with sugar according to taste, a few +pounded sweet almonds and a few slices of citron; when it has simmered +a short time, let it cool; place it in a mould, and when sufficiently +firm turn it out, stick it with blanched almonds, and pour over a fine +custard. This may be made without milk, and by increasing the quantity +of almonds will be found exceedingly good. + + * * * * * + +ALMOND PASTE. + +Blanch half a pound of fine almonds, pound them to a paste, a few +drops of water are necessary to be added, from time to time, or they +become oily; then mix thoroughly with it half a pound of white sifted +sugar, put it into a preserving pan, and let them simmer very gently +until they become dry enough not to stick to a clean spoon when +touched; it must be constantly stirred. + + * * * * * + +RICE FRUIT TARTS. + +For persons who dislike pastry, the following is an excellent way of +preparing fruit. Boil in milk some whole rice till perfectly soft, +sweeten with white sugar, and when nearly cold, line a dish with it, +have ready some currants, raspberries, cherries, or any other fruit, +which must have been previously stewed and sweetened, fill the dish +with it; beat up the whites of three eggs to a froth, mixed with a +little white sugar, and lay over the top, and place it in the oven for +half an hour. + + * * * * * + +BREAD FRUIT TARTS. + +Line a dish with thin slices of bread, then lay the fruit with brown +sugar in alternate layers, with slices of bread; when the dish is +filled, pour over half a tea-cup full of water, and let the top be +formed of thin pieces of bread thickly strewed over with brown sugar, +bake until thoroughly done. + + * * * * * + +RICE CUSTARD. + +This is a very innocent and nutritive custard. Take two ounces of +whole rice and boil it in three pints of milk until it thickens, then +add half a pound of pounded sweet almonds, and sweeten to taste; a +stick of cinnamon and a piece of lemon peel should be boiled in it, +and then taken out. + + * * * * * + +CREME BRUN. + +Boil a large cup of cream, flavor with essence of almonds and +cinnamon, and then mix with it the yolk of three eggs, carefully +beaten and strained, stirring one way to keep it smooth; place it on a +dish in small heaps, strew over powdered sugar and beaten almonds, and +brown with a salamander. + + * * * * * + +PANCAKES. + +Mix a light batter of eggs with flour and milk or water, fry in +boiling butter or clarified suet; they may be fried without butter or +fat, by putting more eggs and a little cream, the pan must be very +dry and clean; those fried without butter are very delicate and +fashionable, they should be fried of the very lightest colour; they +are good also made of rice, which must be boiled in milk till quite +tender; then beat up with eggs, and flavoured according to taste, and +fried like other pancakes. + + * * * * * + +PANCAKES FOR CHILDREN. + +Take a pint of finely grated bread crumbs, simmer in a little milk +and water, flavour with cinnamon or lemon peel grated, add a couple of +beaten eggs, and sweeten to taste, drop a small quantity into the pan +and fry like pancakes. + + * * * * * + +A NICE RICE PUDDING FOR CHILDREN. + +Boil till tender half a pound of well picked rice in one quart of +fresh milk, sweeten with white sugar, and flavour with whole cinnamon, +lemon peel, and a bay leaf; when the rice is tender, place it in a +deep dish, pour over a very little butter warmed in a little milk, +and bake until brown; a slow oven is requisite unless the rice is +extremely soft before it is put in the oven. + + * * * * * + +A RICH BREAD AND BUTTER PUDDING. + +Lay in a deep dish alternate layers of bread and butter cut from a +French roll, and the following mixture: the yolks of four eggs beaten, +four ounces of moist sugar, a few soaked ratafias, a table-spoonful +of brandy and a few currants; fill up the dish with these layers, and +pour over a little milk, the last layer should be of bread and butter, +the whites of the eggs beaten to a froth may, if an elegant appearance +is wished for, be laid over the top when the pudding is nearly baked. + + * * * * * + +A CHERRY BATTER PUDDING. + +Stone and pick some fine cherries, put them into a buttered mould, +and pour over them a fine batter well sweetened, tie over the mould +closely, and boil one hour and a half; serve with sweet sauce. This +is a delicious pudding; plums or damsons are sometimes used instead of +cherries. + + * * * * * + +CUMBERLAND PUDDING. + +Take equal quantities of bread crumbs, apples finely chopped, currants +and shred suet, sweeten with brown sugar, and mix all together with +three eggs, a little brandy, grated nutmeg, and lemon peel; boil in +a round mould from one to two hours, according to the size of the +pudding. + + * * * * * + +COLLEGE PUDDING. + +These are made in a similar way to Cumberland pudding, with the +omission of the apples, they are made in balls, and fried or baked in +cups. A sweet sauce is served with them. + + * * * * * + +PLUM PUDDING. + +To one pound of currants add one pound of raisins, one pound of shred +suet, one pound flour (or half a pound bread crumbs and half a pound +of flour), a quarter of a pound of candied orange and lemon peel, +a little citron cut thin, half a pound of moist sugar; mix all well +together as each article is added, then stir in six beaten eggs and a +glass of brandy, beat the pudding well for half an hour, let it stand +some time, then put it into a basin and boil six or seven hours in +plenty of water; it should be seasoned according to taste with ginger, +nutmeg, cloves, &c. Serve with sifted sugar or whites of eggs beaten +to a froth. + + * * * * * + +RATAFIA PUDDING. + +Soak the crumb of a French roll and half a pound of ratafia cakes in +milk or cream, then mix with them three ounces of warmed fresh butter, +the yolks of five and the whites of two eggs, sweeten to taste; add +one ounce of pounded almonds, and a few bitter almonds, boil in a +shape lined with dried cherries, or bake in a cake-tin first well +buttered, and sprinkled with bread crumbs. + + * * * * * + +PASSOVER PUDDING. + +Mix equal quantities of biscuit powder and shred suet, half the +quantity of currants and raisins, a little spice and sugar, with an +ounce of candied peels, and fine well beaten eggs; make these into +a stiff batter, and boil well, and serve with a sweet sauce. This +pudding is excellent baked in a pudding tin, it must be turned out +when served. + + * * * * * + +ANOTHER SORT. + +Mix the various ingredients above-named, substituting for the raisins, +apples minced finely, add a larger proportion of sugar, and either +boil or bake. + + * * * * * + +ANOTHER SORT. + +Mix into a batter a cup full of biscuit powder, with a little milk and +a couple of eggs, to which add three ounces of sugar, two of warmed +butter, a little shred of lemon peel, and a table-spoonful of rum; +pour the mixture into a mould, and boil or bake. + + * * * * * + +PASSOVER FRITTERS. + +Mix into a smooth batter a tea-cup of biscuit powder with beaten eggs, +and sweeten with white sifted sugar; add grated lemon peel, and a +spoonful of orange flower-water, and fry of a light brown; the flavor +may be varied by substituting a few beaten almonds, with one or two +bitter, instead of the orange flower-water. + + * * * * * + +A SUPERIOR RECEIPT FOR PASSOVER FRITTERS. + +Make a thin batter as already described in the former receipt; drop +it into a souflé pan, fry lightly, and strew over pounded cinnamon, +sifted sugar, and finely chopped almonds; hold over a salamander to +brown the upper side. Slide the fritter on to a hot dish, and fold; +pour over, when in the dish, clarified sugar. + + * * * * * + +PASSOVER CURRANT FRITTERS. + +Mix a thick batter, as before, add some well-washed and dried +currants, and fry of a rich brown; serve with a sweet sauce, flavored +with wine or shrub, and sweetened with moist sugar; these are often +made in the shape of small balls, and fried and served in the same +sauce. + + * * * * * + +BATTER PUDDING. + +Stir in three ounces of flour, four beaten eggs, and one pint of milk, +sweeten to taste, and mix to a smooth batter about the thickness of +good cream, and boil in a buttered basin. + + * * * * * + +CUSTARD PUDDING. + +To one desert spoonful of flour, add one pint of fresh milk and the +yolks of five eggs; flavor according to fancy, with sugar, nutmeg, or +lemon-peel; beat to a froth two whites of eggs and pour to the rest; +boil rather more than half an hour. + + * * * * * + +BREAD PUDDING. + +Grate stale bread, or soak the crumb of a French roll in milk, which +must be warmed; beat with it two or three eggs, flavor and sweeten +to taste, sometimes with a little wine or essence of lemon, or beaten +almonds; it will require to be boiled about half an hour. This pudding +is excellent made as above, with the addition of the peel of one whole +lemon grated, with its juice, and baked. + + * * * * * + +VERMICELLI AND MACCARONI PUDDING. + +Boil till tender four ounces of either of the above articles, in a +pint of milk; flavor as directed in the preceding receipt, and boil in +a mould, which may be lined with raisins. It should be served with any +sweet pudding sauce. + + * * * * * + +MILLET, ARROWROOT, GROUND RICE, RICE, TAPIOCA, AND SAGO PUDDINGS. + +Puddings of this sort are so similar and simple, that it is only +necessary to give one receipt, which will serve as a guide for +all;--they are all made with milk, all require to be thoroughly done, +all require to be mixed with eggs and sweetened with sugar, and +are good either boiled or baked. The cook must use her judgment in +adopting the quantities to the size of the pudding required, and the +taste of the family she serves. + + * * * * * + +MINCED MEAT. + +Take one pound of tender roasted meat, two pounds of shred suet, three +pounds of currants, six chopped apples, a quarter of a loaf grated, +nutmegs, cloves, pepper, salt, one pound of sugar, grated lemon and +orange peel, lemon juice, and two wine glasses of brandy, the same of +white wine, and two ounces of citron, and the same of candied lemon +peel; mix all well together; the ingredients ought to be added +separately. Minced meat should be kept a day or two before using. The +same proportions, as above, without meat, will be very good; a little +port wine is sometimes substituted for the brandy. + + * * * * * + +BAKED SUET PUDDING. + +Mix one pint of water, six ounces of flour, three of shred suet, and +two or three beaten eggs; sweeten to taste. Add raisins or currants if +approved, and bake in a brick oven. + + * * * * * + +YORKSHIRE PUDDING. + +Mix into a smooth batter half a pound of flour, four eggs, if intended +to be rich, otherwise two, a pint of milk, and a little salt, it +should be about an inch thick; it can be made with or without milk by +using a greater proportion of eggs, but it is not so good. + + * * * * * + +GATEAU DE TOURS. + +Take a pound-cake, cut it in slices about half an inch in thickness, +spread each slice with jam or preserve, then replace them to the +original form; cover the cake with whites of eggs and sugar, whisked +to a froth, and set it in a cool oven to dry. + + * * * * * + +JAUMANGE. + +Simmer half a pound of white sugar in three-quarters of a pint of +water, with the thinly cut peel of two lemons; when the sugar is +melted, add an ounce of dissolved isinglass, and the juice of three +lemons, a glass of brandy and three of sherry, beat up with this the +yolks of five or six eggs. Place the basin in which it is mixed into a +pan of boiling water to thicken it, then pour it into a mould and set +it to cool; if it does not thicken by being put in a pan of boiling +water, set the pan on the fire and stir it for a few minutes. + + * * * * * + +GATEAU DE POMME. + +Take ten or twelve fine baking apples, peel and take out the cores, +and let them simmer in milk and water; when soft drain them, and beat +them up with a wooden fork, with half an ounce of dissolved isinglass, +white sifted sugar, sufficient to sweeten, and grated lemon peel. Put +the mixture, when perfectly smooth, into a mould, set it in ice or +a very cool place, when it is turned out it should be covered with a +fine custard. + + * * * * * + +APPLE CHARLOTTE. + +Prepare the apples as in the last receipt; but instead of using a +jelly mould, put the apples into an oval cake tin about the size of a +small side dish, four or five inches high; when cold, turn it out +and cover the apple-shape with savoy cakes placed closely together +perpendicularly; all round the top of the charlotte should be covered +with whites of eggs and sugar, beaten to a stiff froth, and placed in +small balls; a salamander should be used to crisp them and to give +a slight peach-like colour; a tasteful cook will, after crisping the +first layer of these balls, add others over them to form a sort of +cone high in the centre, that will have a pretty effect if well done. +This is an easy and elegant _entremêt_, and by no means an expensive +one. + + * * * * * + +A SOUFLE. + +Take half a pint of cream and the same quantity of new milk, and warm +them together in a clean saucepan, meanwhile make a smooth batter with +four ounces of rice-flour or potatoe-flour, and stir into the milk, +let it simmer, stirring all the time till it thickens; then add two +to three ounces of fresh butter, and white sifted sugar enough to +sweeten, and a little grated lemon peel; then take it off the fire and +stir quickly to it the well-beaten yolks of six to eight eggs, butter +the pan and pour the mixture into it, when on the point of being +placed into the oven, add the whites of the eggs thoroughly whisked; +the pan must be only half filled, as it will rise very high; it must +be served immediately it is taken from the oven, even in passing to +the dinner table a salamander should be held over it, to prevent its +falling and becoming heavy and unsightly. The French flavour a souflé +with orange flour-water or vanilla, and the rind of a Seville orange +is sometimes substituted for the rind of a lemon; there are dishes +made expressly for souflés. + + * * * * * + +A PLAIN SOUFLE. + +Mix well together six ounces of rice-flour, arrowroot, or _tous les +mois_, with half a pint of milk flavoured with essence of almond +and lemon peel, or orange-flour water, let it thicken over the fire, +stirring to keep it smooth, sweeten with white sugar, add the beaten +yolks of five eggs, proceed as in the last receipt, adding the whisked +whites at the moment of placing the souflé into the oven; if +there happen to be no souflé dish, a cake-tin may make a tolerable +substitute, a paper fringed should then line the tin and a napkin +should be twisted round it when brought to table. + + * * * * * + +A SWEET OMELET. + +Beat up three or four eggs, pour them into an omelet pan, and sprinkle +a little white sugar over them while frying, hold a salamander or hot +shovel over the uppermost side of the omelet, as it must only be fried +on one side. As soon as it is set, slide it on to a hot dish, double +it, and sprinkle sugar over it and serve quickly. + + * * * * * + +OMLETTE SOUFLEE. + +Fry the eggs as directed for sweet omelet, using about five yolks and +two whites, all of which require being finely beaten and strained. +Soften a little preserve by holding it over the fire, or mixing a +little warm water with it, spread it slightly over the omelette, have +the remainder of the whites whisked to a froth with white sugar, and +lay it on the preserve; slide the omelette on to a hot dish, double +it, and serve directly. + + * * * * * + +FANCY CREAMS. + +Put into a basin a pint of cream, to which add four ounces of powdered +white sugar, and the rind of a lemon rubbed on a lump of sugar, and a +glass of sherry wine; whisk them well and mix with it half an ounce +of dissolved isinglass, beat it all thoroughly together, and fill the +mould, which should be set in ice till wanted. A table spoonful of +marasquino added to the above, will make _Italian cream_. A table +spoonful of fresh or preserved pine-apple will make _pine-apple +cream_; this will require the addition of a little lemon syrup. A +table spoonful of ratafia, will make it _ratifia cream_. + +The juice of strawberries or raspberries make fine fruit creams; +_mille fruit cream_ is made by mixing with the cream any kind of small +preserved fruit. + + * * * * * + +RICE SOUFLES. + +Boil well some fine picked rice, in pure fresh milk, sweeten and +flavour with a bay leaf, lemon peel, and a stick of cinnamon, all +which must be taken out when the rice is done, then line with it +a round dish, or souflé dish, have ready apples previously boiled, +sweetened, and beat up smoothly, place the apple lightly in the centre +rather higher in the middle than at the sides, beat up the whites of +eggs to a froth, sweeten and flavour with lemon, or noyau essence; +place it in small heaps tastefully on the apple and rice, and brown +delicately with a salamander. This souflé may have stewed cherries or +any _other_ kind of fruit, instead of the apples if preferred. + + * * * * * + +BOILED CUSTARD. + +Take a pint of milk, let it simmer in a very clean saucepan, flavor +it with lemon-peel and a bay leaf, and sweeten to taste; while gently +boiling, add the beaten yolks of four eggs, and the whites of two, +continue stirring until the custard thickens, when it must be removed +from the fire, but it is requisite to stir it until it cools. It is +necessary to strain the milk before the eggs are added, and also to +pass the eggs through a sieve. Custards are flavoured sometimes +with essence of almonds; a little cream added to the milk is a great +improvement. The above mixture may be baked in small cups; they +require a quarter of an hour to bake. + + * * * * * + +CALF'S FEET JELLY. + +Boil two feet in two quarts, or five pints of water, till the water +has half wasted; strain, and when cold, take off the fat, then put it +in the saucepan with lump sugar, lemon juice, and white wine to taste, +also a little lemon peel; when simmered a few minutes, throw in the +whites of two eggs, and their shells broken, which will have the +effect of clarifying the jelly; let it boil about ten minutes after +the scum rises, then pour it through a flannel bag or thick cloth, +dipping the bag or cloth first into hot water; pass the jelly through +it until clear, then pour it into moulds and put them in a cool place +to set. One calf's foot and one cow heel will be more economical than +two calfs feet. If fruit is desired to be in the jelly, it must be put +in when the jelly begins to stiffen in the mould. + + * * * * * + +ORANGE JELLY. + +This can be made with calf's feet or without. One quart of water will +require one ounce of isinglass, simmer the isinglass in the water, +and add the peel of one lemon and one orange; when the isinglass is +dissolved, add the juice of a lemon and six fine oranges; although the +quantity must vary according to the season for them, sweeten with half +a pound of white sugar; a Seville orange is added if there should not +be much flavor in the others. + +Lemon jelly is made in the same way; the peel of a Seville orange and +of a lemon is used, with the juice of five lemons; rather more sugar +will be required with this jelly than with the former. + +Punch jelly is made in the same way. An equal quantity of brandy +and rum, with the juice of two or three lemons is mixed with the +isinglass, which is dissolved in one pint of water, the other pint of +liquid being made up by the lemon juice and spirits. + +The essence of noyeau is reckoned to give an exquisite flavor, in this +case it requires to be coloured with a few drops of cochineal. + + * * * * * + +AN EASY TRIFLE. + +Soak three sponge cakes and half a pound of macaroons and ratafias +in one wine glass of brandy and three of white wine, lay them at the +bottom of the trifle dish, and pour over nearly a pint of thick rich +custard, made of equal portions of milk and cream, with seven eggs, +according to directions for "Custards;" before the custard is added, +jam and sweetmeats are sometimes spread over the cakes; a fine light +froth is prepared with cream and the whites of two eggs, flavored with +wine and sugar, heap it over the trifle lightly. + + * * * * * + +A STILL MORE SIMPLE ONE, AND QUICKLY MADE. + +Soak ratafia cakes in wine, with a little brandy; pour over a thick +custard, and cover with a froth of the white of eggs, flavored with +wine and sweetened with white sugar. + + * * * * * + +BLANCMANGE. + +To a quart of milk add half an ounce of fine isinglass, a handful +of beaten almonds, and two or three bitter almonds, a couple of bay +leaves, and a piece of lemon peel; when the isinglass is dissolved, +strain the milk into a basin; sweeten with four ounces of white sugar, +and pour into a mould. + +The juice of fresh strawberries is a fine addition to blancmange. + + * * * * * + +A JUDITHA. + +Put some gooseberries into a saucepan with very little water, when +they are soft, pulp them through a sieve, and add several well-beaten +yolks of eggs, and sweeten with white sugar; have ready a shape of +biscuit ice, or any other cream ice that may be preferred, take off a +thick slice of the ice from the top carefully, and without breaking, +so that it may be replaced on the ice. Scoop out a large portion of +the ice which may be mixed with the gooseberry cream, and fill the +hollow with it. Cover the shape with the piece that was removed and +serve. This is an elegant dish, the ice should be prepared in a round +mould--brown-bread ice is particularly well adapted to a Juditha. + + * * * * * + +TOURTE A LA CRÊME. + +This is a fashionable and delicate description of tart. A couple of +round cutters about the size of a pie plate are required for it, one +of the cutters must be about two inches smaller than the other, if +they are fluted the tourte will have a better appearance. + +Roll out some very rich puff paste to the thickness of one inch, and +cut two pieces with the larger tin cutter, then press the smaller +cutter through one of these pieces, and remove the border which will +be formed round it; this must be laid very evenly upon the other piece +of paste, and slightly pressed to make it adhere; place the tourte in +an oven to bake for about twenty minutes, then let it become cool, but +not cold, and fill it with a fine custard or with any rich preserves; +if the latter, a well whipped cream may be laid lightly over; the +pastry may be glazed if approved. + + * * * * * + +THE GROSVENOR PUDDING. + +Beat half a pound of butter with the same quantity of white sugar +until it is like cream, then beat up five eggs and add them with half +a pound of flour, a quarter of a pound of currants, two ounces of +candied orange and lemon peel cut in thin slices, and a few drops +of lemon essence; when these ingredients are well mixed and beaten, +butter a pudding tin, pour in the mixture, and bake in a moderately +quick oven. + + * * * * * + +CITRON PUDDING. + +Cut in slices two ounces of citron, the same quantity of candied +orange and lemon peel, add to them four ounces of loaf sugar, and four +of fresh butter; line a dish with fine puff paste, and beat up to a +froth the yolks of four eggs and the whites of two, fill the dish with +these ingredients and bake half an hour. The dish should be shallow. + + * * * * * + +STEWED PEARS. + +Peel, core, and quarter a dozen fine large baking pears, put them into +a stewpan with half a pound of white sugar and sufficient cold water +to cover them; with a small quantity of the peelings, a few cloves, +and a little cochineal tied up in a muslin bag, let them stew gently, +and closely covered until tender. + + * * * * * + +BAKED PEARS. + +Peel them and stick a couple of cloves in each pear, place them in a +deep dish, with half a pound of brown sugar and a little water, let +them bake till quite tender. + + * * * * * + +STEWED PIPPINS. + +Peel the pippins and stew them gently with a little water, white +sugar, and a little lemon peel; preserve is usually used to ornament +the top of each apple; they should, when done, look white and rather +transparent. + + * * * * * + +SIESTA CAKE. + +Take one pound of butter, warm it over the fire with a little milk, +put it into a pan with a pound of flour, six eggs, a quarter of a +pound of sweet almonds finely pounded, and two table-spoonsful of +yeast; beat these ingredients well together into a light paste, and +set it before the fire to rise, butter the inside of a pan, and fill +it with alternate layers of the paste, and of pounded almonds, sugar, +citron, and cinnamon; when baked, and while hot, make holes through +the siesta with a small silver skewer, taking care not to break it, +and pour over clarified sugar till it is perfectly soaked through. + + * * * * * + +A PLAIN BOLA. + +Take three quarters of a pound of white sugar, three quarters of a +pound of fresh butter, two eggs, one pound and a half of flour, three +spoonsful of yeast, a little milk, and two ounces of citron cut thin, +and mix into a light paste; bake in a tin, and strew powdered sugar +and cinnamon over it before baking. + +The above ingredients are often baked in small tins or cups. + + * * * * * + +ALMOND TEA-CAKES. + +Take half-a-pound of flour, three ounces of which are to be put aside +for rolling out the cakes, the other five ounces, with a quarter of +a pound of fresh butter, are to be set before the fire for a few +minutes; after which mix with it half a pound of sugar, a quarter of a +pound of sweet almonds, chopped fine, and a couple of eggs; make these +ingredients into thin cakes, and strew over them ground almonds and +white sugar, and bake in a brisk oven. + + * * * * * + +OIL TWIST. + +Take half a quartern of dough, one gill of the best Florence oil, +half a pound of currants, half a pound of moist sugar, and a little +cinnamon; mix all well together, make it up in the form of a twist, +and bake it. + + * * * * * + +CINNAMON CAKES. + +Rub half a pound of fresh butter into a pound of flour; work it well +together, then add half a pound of sifted sugar, and a tea-spoonful of +pounded cinnamon, and make it into a paste, with three eggs; roll it, +and cut into small cakes, with tin cutters. + + * * * * * + +RICH PLUM CAKE. + +Beat to a cream one pound of butter, to which add the same quantity of +sifted loaf sugar and of fine flour, the whites of ten eggs beaten to +a froth, and the yolks of the same also beaten till quite smooth +and thin, and half a nutmeg grated; lastly, work in one pound of +well-washed currants, half a pound of mixed candied peels, cut small, +and a glass of brandy; bake for two hours. + + * * * * * + +DIET-BREAD CAKE. + +Beat together five eggs and half a pound of white sugar, then add six +ounces of flour well dried and sifted, a little lemon-juice and grated +lemon-peel; bake in a moderate oven. + + * * * * * + +DROP CAKES. + +Mix one pound of flour with the same quantity of butter, sugar, and +currants; make these into a paste with a couple of eggs, add a little +orange flower-water and a little white wine; if the paste is likely +to be too thin when two eggs are used, omit the white of one; drop the +mixture when ready on a tin plate, and bake. + + * * * * * + +A COMMON CAKE. + +Rub in with one pound of flour six ounces of butter, and two +tea-spoonsful of yeast, to a paste; set it to rise, then mix in five +eggs, half a pound of sugar, and a quarter of a pint of milk; add +currants or carraways, and beat well together. If required to +be richer, put more butter and eggs, and add candied citron and +lemon-peel. + + * * * * * + +A SODA CAKE. + +Mix with the above ingredients one drachm of soda, which should be +rubbed in with the flour. This is reckoned a wholesome cake, and half +the quantity of eggs are required, or it may be rendered a fine rich +cake by increasing the quantity of eggs, butter, and fruit. + + * * * * * + +A PLAIN CAKE. + +Work into two pounds of dough a quarter of a pound of sugar, the same +of butter; add a couple of eggs, and bake in a tin. + + * * * * * + +A POUND CAKE. + +Beat to cream a pound of butter and a pound of sifted loaf sugar; add +eight beaten eggs, stir in lightly three quarters of a pound of flour, +beat well together, and bake for one hour in a brisk oven; currants +may be added if, approved. + + * * * * * + +BUTTER CAKES. + +Take equal quantities of butter and sugar, say half a pound of each, +grate the rind of a lemon, add a little cinnamon, and as much flour +as will form it into a paste, with spice and eggs; roll it out, cut +it into two small cakes, and bake. A piece of candied orange or +lemon-peel may be put on the top of each cake. + + * * * * * + +LITTLE SHORT CAKES. + +Rub into a pound of flour four ounces of butter, four ounces of white +powdered sugar, and two eggs; make it into a paste, roll it thin, and +cut into small cakes with tin cutters. A little orange flower-water or +sweet wine improve the flavour of these cakes. + + * * * * * + +MATSO CAKES. + +Make a stiff paste with biscuit powder and milk and water; add a +little butter, the yolk of an egg, and a little white sugar; cut into +pieces, and mould with the hand, and bake in a brisk oven. These cakes +should not be too thin. + + * * * * * + +ANOTHER SORT. + +Warm a quarter of a pint of water flavoured with a little salt, in +which mix four beaten eggs; then mix half a pound of matso flour, and +a couple of lumps of white sugar, and half a teacup of milk; mix all +well together, and bake in a tin. + + * * * * * + +FRIED MATSOS. + +Soak some of the thickest matsos in milk, taking care they do not +break; then fry in boiling fresh butter. This is a very nice method of +preparing them for breakfast or tea. + + * * * * * + +MATSO DIET BREAD. + +Simmer one pound of white sugar in a quarter of a pint of water, which +pour hot upon eight well-beaten eggs; beat till cold, when add one +pound of matso flour, a little grated lemon-peel, and bake in a +papered tin, or in small tins; the cake must be removed while hot. + + * * * * * + +A CAKE WITHOUT BUTTER. + +Beat well five eggs, to which add six ounces of flour; flavour with +beaten almonds, and add, if liked, thin slices of citron; bake in a +mould in a moderate oven. + + * * * * * + +SPONGE CAKES. + +Mix six eggs, half the whites, half a pound of lump sugar, half a +pound of flour, and a quarter of a pint of water, which should be +strongly flavoured by lemon peel having been in it for some hours; +the sugar and water should boil up together, and poured over the eggs +after they have been well whisked, which must be continued while the +liquid is being poured over them, and until they become quite thick +and white, then stir in the flour, which must be warm and dry. Pour +the mixture into a couple of cake tins, and bake in a gentle oven. + + * * * * * + +A NICE BREAKFAST CAKE. + +Make a paste of half a pound of flour, one ounce of butter, a very +little salt, two eggs, and a table-spoonful of milk, roll it out, but +first set it to rise before the fire; cut it into cakes the size of +small cheese plates, sprinkle with flour, and bake on a tin in a brisk +oven, or they may be fried in a clean frying pan; they should be cut +in half, buttered hot, and served quickly. + + * * * * * + +ICING FOR CAKES. + +Whisk half a pound of sifted white sugar, with one wine glass of +orange flower-water, and the whites of two eggs, well beaten and +strained; it must be whisked until it is quite thick and white; and +when the cake is almost cold, dip a soft camel's hair brush into it, +and cover the cake well, and set it in a cool oven to harden. + + * * * * * + +TO CLARIFY SUGAR. + +Take the proportion of one pound of sugar to half a pint of water, +with the whites of a couple of eggs; boil it up twice, then set it by +for the impurities to rise to the top, and skim it carefully. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + + +Preserving and Bottling. + +Attention and a little practice will ensure excellence in such +preserves as are in general use in private families; and it will +always be found a more economical plan to purchase the more rare and +uncommon articles of preserved fruits than to have them made at home. + +The more sugar that is added to fruit the less boiling it requires. + +If jellies be over-boiled, much of the sugar will become candied, and +leave the jelly thin. + +Every thing used for the purpose of preserving should be clean and +very dry, particularly bottles for bottled fruit. + +Fruit should boil rapidly _before_ the sugar is added, and quietly +afterwards--when preserves seem likely to become mouldy, it is +generally a sign they have not been sufficiently boiled, and it will +be requisite to boil them up again--fruit for bottling should not be +too ripe, and should be perfectly fresh; there are various methods +adopted by different cooks: the fruit may be placed in the bottles, +and set in a moderate oven until considerably shrunken, when the +bottles should be removed and closely corked; or the bottles may be +set in a pan with cold water up to the necks, placed over the fire; +when the fruit begins to sink remove them, and when cold fill up each +bottle with cold spring water, cork the bottles, and lay them on their +sides in a dry place. + +To bottle red currants--pick them carefully from the stalk, and add, +as the currants are put in, sifted white sugar; let the bottles +be well filled and rosin the corks, and keep them with their necks +downwards. + + * * * * * + +BRANDIED CHERRIES. + +Put into a large wide mouthed bottle very ripe black cherries, add to +them two pounds of loaf sugar, a quart of brandy, and a few cloves, +then bruise a few more cherries, and simmer with sugar, strain and add +the juice to the cherries in the bottle, cork closely, and keep in a +warm dry place. + + * * * * * + +QUINCE MARMALADE. + +Peel, cut into quarters, and core two pounds of sharp apples, and the +same quantity of quinces; put them into a jar, with one pound of white +sugar powdered and sprinkled over them; cover them with half a pint +of water, and put in also a little bruised cochineal tied in a muslin. +Set them in a slack oven till tender, take out the cochineal, and pulp +the fruit to a marmalade. + +Some cooks prefer boiling the sugar and water first and scalding the +fruit till tender, and then adding them to the syrup. + + * * * * * + +DAMSON MARMALADE. + +Is made in the same manner as quince, as also apricot marmalade, which +is very fine; the fruit must be stoned, and some of the kernels put in +with the fruit, which are peeled, and apricots are cut in pieces; they +should be carefully pulped through a clean sieve. + + * * * * * + +PRESERVED APRICOTS. + +Halve and pare ripe apricots, or if not quite ripe, boil them till the +skin can easily be removed. Lay them in a dish hollow downwards, +sift over them their own weight of white sugar, let them lay for some +hours, then put the fruit, with the sugar and juice into a preserving +pan, and simmer till the fruit is clear, take it out, put it carefully +into pots, and pour over the syrup. + +This receipt will serve as a guide for preserved nectarines, peaches, +plums, gages, &c. A few of the kernels should always be put in with +the fruit, as they improve the flavor of the preserve. + + * * * * * + +STRAWBERRIES PRESERVED WHOLE. + +Weigh an equal quantity of fruit and white sugar powdered, sift all +the sugar over the fruit, so that half of it shall equally be covered, +let it lay till the next day, when boil the remainder with red currant +juice, in which simmer the strawberries until the jelly hangs about +them. Put the strawberries into pots, taking care not to break them, +and pour over the syrup. + +This receipt will serve for raspberries and cherries, which make a +fine preserve. + + * * * * * + +STRAWBERRY JAM. + +Bruise gently, with the back of a wooden spoon, six pounds of fine +fresh fruit, and boil them with very little water for twenty minutes, +stirring until the fruit and juice are well mixed; then put in +powdered loaf sugar of equal weight to the fruit, and simmer half an +hour longer. If the preserve is not required to be very rich, half the +weight of sugar in proportion to the quantity of fruit may be used; +but more boiling will be requisite. By this recipe also are made +raspberry, currant, gooseberry, apricot, and other jams. + + * * * * * + +RED CURRANT JELLY. + +Strip carefully from the stems some quite ripe currants, put them into +a preserving pan, stir them gently over a clear fire until the juice +flows freely from them, then squeeze the currants and strain the juice +through a folded muslin or jelly bag; pour it into a preserving pan, +adding, as it boils, white sugar, in the proportion of one pound of +sugar to one pint of juice. + +If made with less sugar, more boiling will be required, by which much +juice and flavour are lost. A little dissolved isinglass is used by +confectioners, but it is much better without. Jams and jellies should +be poured into pots when in a boiling state. + +Jellies should be continually skimmed till the scum ceases to rise, +so that they may be clear and fine. White currant jelly and black are +made in the same manner as red. By this receipt can be made raspberry +jelly, strawberry jelly, and all other kinds. + + * * * * * + +APPLE JELLY. + +Pare, core, and cut small any kind of fine baking apples--say six +pounds in weight; put them in a preserving pan with one quart of +water; boil gently till the apples are very soft and broken, then pass +the juice through a jelly bag; when, to each pint, add half a pound of +loaf sugar, set it on the fire to boil twenty minutes, skimming it as +the scum rises; it must not be over boiled, or the colour will be too +dark. + + * * * * * + +PEAR-SYRUP OR JELLY. + +This preparation, although little known in England, forms an important +article of economy in many parts of the Continent. The pears are first +heated in a saucepan over the fire until the pulp, skins, &c., have +separated from the juice, which is then strained, and boiled with +coarse brown sugar to the thickness of treacle; but it has a far +more agreeable flavour. It is cheaper than butter or treacle, and is +excellent spread upon bread for children. + + * * * * * + +PLUM JAM. + +This is a useful and cheap preserve. Choose the large long black plum; +to each gallon of which add three pounds of good moist sugar; bake +them till they begin to crack, when, put them in pots, of a size for +once using, as the air is apt to spoil the jam. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + + +Pickling. + +The best vinegar should always be used for pickling; in all cases it +should be boiled and strained. + +The articles to be pickled should first be parboiled or soaked in +brine, which should have about six ounces of salt to one quart of +water. + +The spices used for pickling are whole pepper, long peppers, allspice, +mace, mustard-seed, and ginger, the last being first bruised. + +The following is a good proportion of spice: to one quart of vinegar +put half an ounce of ginger, the same quantity of whole-pepper and +allspice, and one ounce of mustard-seed; four shalots, and one clove +of garlic. + +Pickles should be kept secure from the air, or they soon become +soft; the least quantity of water, or a wet spoon, put into a jar of +pickles, will spoil the contents. + + * * * * * + +TO PICKLE GHERKINS AND FRENCH BEANS. + +These are, of all vegetables, the most difficult to pickle, so that +their green colour and freshness may be preserved. Choose some fine +fresh gherkins, and set them to soak in brine for a week; then drain +them, and pour over boiling vinegar, prepared with the usual spices, +first having covered them with fresh vine leaves. If they do not +appear to be of a fine green, pour off the vinegar, boil it up again, +cover the gherkins with fresh green vine leaves, and pour over the +vinegar again. French beans are pickled exactly the same. + + * * * * * + +TO PICKLE CAULIFLOWERS. + +Remove the stalks and leaves, break the flower into pieces, parboil +them in brine, then drain them, and lay them in a jar, and pour over +boiling spiced vinegar. + + * * * * * + +TO PICKLE MELON MANGOES. + +Cut the melons in half, remove the pulpy part and the seeds, soak +the halves for a week in strong brine, then fill them with the +usual spices, mustard-seed and garlic, and tie them together with +packthread; put them in jars, and pour over boiling spiced vinegar. +Large cucumbers may be pickled in the same way. + + * * * * * + +PICCALILI. + +Pickle gherkins, French beans, and cauliflower, separately, as already +directed; the other vegetables used are carrots, onions, capsicums, +white cabbage, celery, and, indeed almost any kind may be put into +this pickle, except walnuts and red cabbage. They must be cut in small +pieces, and soaked in brine, the carrots only, requiring to be boiled +in it to make them tender; then prepare a liquor as follows: into +half a gallon of vinegar put two ounces of ginger, one of whole black +pepper, one of whole allspice, and one of bruised chillies, three +ounces of shalots, and one ounce of garlic; boil together nearly +twenty minutes; mix a little of it in a basin, with two ounces of +flour of mustard and one ounce of turmeric, and stir it in gradually +with the rest; then pour the liquor over the vegetables. + + * * * * * + +TO PICKLE MUSHROOMS. + +Choose small button mushrooms, clean and wipe them, and throw them +into cold water, then put into a stewpan with a little salt, and cover +them with distilled vinegar, and simmer a few minutes. Put them in +bottles with a couple of blades or so of mace, and when cold, cork +them closely. + + * * * * * + +TO PICKLE ONIONS. + +Choose all of a size and soak in boiling brine, when cold, drain them +and put them in bottles, and fill up with hot distilled vinegar; if +they are to be _white_, use white wine vinegar; if they are to be +_brown_, use the best distilled vinegar, adding, in both cases, a +little mace, ginger, and whole pepper. + + * * * * * + +TO PICKLE WHITE AND RED CABBAGE. + +Take off the outside leaves, cut out the stalk, and shred the cabbage +into a cullender, sprinkle with salt, let it remain for twenty-four +hours, then drain it. Put it into jars, and fill up with boiling +vinegar, prepared with the usual spices; if the cabbage is red, a +little cochineal powdered, or a slice or two of beet-root is necessary +to make the pickle a fine colour; if it is white cabbage, add instead, +a little turmeric powder. + + * * * * * + +TO PICKLE WALNUTS. + +Soak in brine for a week, prick them, and simmer in brine, then let +them lay on a sieve to drain, and to turn black, after which place +them in jars, and pour over boiling spiced vinegar. + + * * * * * + +AN OLD WAY OF PICKLING CUCUMBERS. + +Cut the cucumbers in small pieces, length ways, with the peel left +on; lay them in salt for twenty-four hours, then dry the pieces with +a cloth, lay them in a deep dish, and pour over the following mixture: +some vinegar boiled with cayenne pepper, whole ginger, a little +whole pepper, and mustard seed, a few West India pickles are by some +considered an improvement. This mixture should stand till nearly cold +before covering the cucumbers, which should then be bottled. This +pickle is fit for eating a few days after it is made, and will also +keep good in a dry place as long as may be required. + + + + +CHAPTER X. + + +Receipts for Invalids. + +BEEF TEA. + +Cut one pound of fleshy beef in dice, or thin slices, simmer for a +short time without water, to extract the juices, then add, by degrees, +one quart of water, a little salt, a piece of lemon peel, and a +sprig of parsley, are the only necessary seasonings; if the broth is +required to be stronger put less water. + + * * * * * + +CHICKEN PANADA. + +Boil a chicken till rather more than half done in a quart of water, +take of the skin, cut off the white parts when cold, and pound it to +a paste in a mortar, with a small quantity of the liquor it was boiled +in, season with salt, a little nutmeg, and the least piece of lemon +peel; boil it gently, and make it with the liquor in which the fowl +has been boiled of the required consistency. It should be rather +thicker than cream. + + * * * * * + +CHICKEN BROTH. + +After the white parts have been removed for the panada, return the +rest of the chicken to the saucepan, with the liquid, add one blade +of mace, one slice only of onion, a little salt, and a piece of lemon +peel; carefully remove every particle of fat. Vermicelli is very well +adapted for this broth. + + * * * * * + +RESTORATIVE JELLIES. + +There are various kinds of simple restorative jellies suited to an +invalid, among the best are the following:-- + + * * * * * + +HARTSHORN JELLY. + +Boil half a pound of hartshorn shavings in two quarts of water over a +gentle fire until it becomes thick enough to hang about a spoon, then +strain it into a clean saucepan and add half a pint of sherry wine, +and a quarter of a pound of white sugar, clear it by stirring in the +whites of a couple of eggs, whisked to a froth; boil it for about four +or five minutes, add the juice of three lemons, and stir all together, +when it is well curdled, strain it and pour into the mould, if the +color is required to be deeper than the wine will make it, a little +saffron may be boiled in it. + + * * * * * + +BARLEY JELLY. + +Boil in an iron saucepan, one tea-cup full of pearl barley, with one +quart of cold water, pour off the water when it boils, and add another +quart, let it simmer very gently for three hours over or near a slow +fire, stirring it frequently with a wooden spoon, strain it, and +sweeten with white sugar, add the juice of a lemon, a little white +wine, and a quarter of an ounce of isinglass dissolved in a little +water, and pour it into a mould. This is a very nourishing jelly. + + * * * * * + +CAUDLE. + +Make a fine smooth gruel of grits, with a few spices boiled in it, +strain it carefully and warm as required, adding white wine and a +little brandy, nutmeg, lemon peel, and sugar, according to taste, some +persons put the yolk of an egg. + + * * * * * + +RICE CAUDLE. + +Boil half a pint of milk, add a spoonful of ground rice mixed with a +little milk till quite smooth, stir it into the boiling milk, let +it simmer till it thickens, carefully straining it, and sweeten with +white sugar. + + * * * * * + +BARLEY MILK. + +Boil half a pound of pearl barley in one quart of new milk, taking +care to parboil it first in water, which must be poured off, sweeten +with white sugar. This is better made with pearl barley than the +prepared barley. + + * * * * * + +RESTORATIVE MILK. + +Boil a quarter of an ounce of isinglass in a pint of new milk till +reduced to half, and sweeten with sugar candy. + + * * * * * + +MILK PORRIDGE. + +Make a fine gruel with new milk without adding any water, strain +it when sufficiently thick, and sweeten with white sugar. This is +extremely nutritive and fattening. + + * * * * * + +WINE WHEY. + +Set on the fire in a saucepan a pint of milk, when it boils, pour in +as much white wine as will turn it into curds, boil it up, let the +curds settle, strain off, and add a little boiling water, and sweeten +to taste. + + * * * * * + +TAMARIND WHEY. + +Boil three ounces of tamarinds in two pints of milk, strain off the +curds, and let it cool. This is a very refreshing drink. + + * * * * * + +PLAIN WHEY. + +Put into boiling milk as much lemon juice or vinegar as will turn it, +and make the milk clear, strain, add hot water, and sweeten. + + * * * * * + +ORGEAT. + +Beat three ounces of almonds with a table-spoonful of orange-flour +water, and one bitter almond; then pour one pint of new milk, and one +pint of water to the paste, and sweeten with sifted white sugar; half +an ounce of gum-arabic is a good addition for those who have a tender +chest. + + * * * * * + +IRISH MOSS. + +Boil half an ounce of carrageen or Irish moss, in a pint and a half +of water or milk till it is reduced to a pint; it is a most excellent +drink for delicate persons or weakly children. + + * * * * * + +A FINE SOFT DRINK FOR A COUGH. + +Add to a quarter of a pint of new milk warmed, a beaten new laid egg, +with a spoonful of capillaire, and the same of rose water. + + * * * * * + +A REFRESHING DRINK. + +Cut four large apples in slices, and pour over a quart of boiling +water, let them stand till cold, strain the liquor, and sweeten with +white sugar; a little lemon peel put with the apples improves the +flavour. + + * * * * * + +A VERY FINE EMMOLIENT DRINK. + +Wash and rinse extremely well one ounce of pearl barley, then put to +it one ounce of sweet almonds beaten fine, and a piece of lemon +peel, boil together till the liquor is of the thickness of cream and +perfectly smooth, then put in a little syrup of lemon and capillaire. + + * * * * * + +A COOLING DRINK IN FEVER. + +Put a little tea-sage, and a couple of sprigs of balm into a jug, with +a lemon thinly sliced, and the peel cut into strips, pour over a quart +of boiling water, sweeten and let it cool. + + + + +APPENDIX. + + +FRENCH METHOD OF MAKING COFFEE. + +Take in the proportion of one ounce of the berries to half a pint of +water, and grind them at the instant of using them. Put the powder +into a coffee biggin, press it down closely, and pour over a little +water sufficient to moisten it, and then add the remainder by degrees; +the water must be perfectly boiling all the time; let it run quite +through before the top of the percolator is taken off, it must be +served with an equal quantity of boiling milk. Coffee made in this +manner is much clearer and better flavored than when boiled, and it is +a much more economical method than boiling it. + + * * * * * + +A FRENCH RECEIPT FOR MAKING CHOCOLATE. + +Take one ounce of chocolate, cut it in small pieces, and boil it about +six or seven minutes with a small teacup full of water; stir it till +smooth, then add nearly a pint of good milk, give it another boil, +stirring or milling it well, and serve directly. If required very +thick, a larger proportion of chocolate must be used. + + * * * * * + +EGG WINE. + +Beat a fresh egg, and add it to a tumbler of white wine and water, +sweetened and spiced; set it on the fire, stir it gently one way until +it thickens; this, with toast, forms a light nutritive supper. + + * * * * * + +MULLED WINE. + +Boil a little spice, cinnamon, ginger, and cloves, in water, till the +flavor is gained, then add wine, as much as may be approved, sugar and +nutmeg; a strip or two of orange rind cut thin will be found a great +improvement. + + * * * * * + +TO MAKE PUNCH. + +To make one quart, provide two fine fresh lemons, and rub off the +outer peel upon a few lumps of sugar; put the sugar into a bowl with +four ounces of powdered sugar, upon which press the juice of the +lemons, and pour over one pint and a half of very hot water that +_has not boiled_, then add a quarter of a pint of rum, and the same +quantity of brandy; stir well together and strain it, and let it stand +a few minutes before it is drank. + +Whiskey punch is made after the same method; the juice and thin peel +of a Seville orange add variety of flavor to punch, particularly of +whiskey punch. + + * * * * * + +MILK PUNCH. + +Put into a quart of new milk the thinly pared rind of a lemon, and +four ounces of lump sugar; let it boil slowly, remove the peel, and +stir in the yolks of two eggs, previously mixed with a little cold +milk; add by degrees a tea-cup full of rum, the same of brandy; +mill the punch to a fine froth, and serve immediately in quite warm +glasses. The punch must not be allowed to boil after the eggs have +been added. + + * * * * * + +A FRENCH PLUM PIE. + +Stew one pound of fine dried French plums until tender, in water, +rather more than enough to cover, with one glass of port wine, and +four ounces of white sugar, which must however not be added until +the plums are quite tender, then pour them with the liquor into a +pie-dish, and cover with a rich puff paste, and bake. + + * * * * * + +ROASTED CHESTNUTS FOR DESSERTS. + +Chestnuts are so frequently sent to table uneatable, that we will +give the French receipt for them. They should be first boiled for five +minutes, and then finish them in a pan over the fire; they will after +the boiling require exactly fifteen minutes roasting; the skin must be +slightly cut before they are cooked. + + * * * * * + +TO ROAST PARTRIDGES AND PHEASANTS. + +They may be either _piqué_ or not; partridges require roasting rather +more than half an hour, pheasants three-quarters, if small, otherwise +an hour; they are served with bread sauce. + +Partridges may be stewed as pigeons. + + * * * * * + +TO ROAST VENISON. + +Wipe the venison dry, sprinkle with salt, and cover with writing paper +rubbed with clarified fat; cover this with a thick paste made of flour +and water, round which, tie with packthread white kitchen paper, so as +to prevent the paste coming off; set the venison before a strong +fire, and baste it directly and continue until it is nearly done, then +remove the paper, paste, &c.; draw the venison nearer the fire, dredge +it with flour, and continue basting; it should only take a light +brown, and should be rather under than over-done; a large haunch +requires from three to four hours roasting, a small one not above +three. Serve with the knuckle, garnished with a fringe of white paper, +and with gravy and red currant jelly, either cold or melted, in port +wine, and served hot. + + * * * * * + +A VENISON PASTY. + +Having baked or boiled two hours in broth, with a little seasoning, +any part selected, cut the meat in pieces, season with cayenne pepper, +salt, pounded mace, and a little allspice, place it into a deep dish; +lay over thin slices of mutton fat, and pour a little strong beef +gravy flavored with port wine into the dish; cover with a thick puff +paste, and bake. + + * * * * * + +SALMON PIE. + +Cut two pounds of fine fresh salmon in slices about three quarters of +an inch thick, and set them aside on a dish, clean and scrape five or +six anchovies and halve them, then chop a small pottle of mushrooms, +a handful of fresh parsley, a couple of shalots, and a little green +thyme. Put these together into a saucepan, with three ounces of +butter, a little pepper, salt, nutmeg, and tarragon; add the juice +of a lemon, and half a pint of good brown gravy, and let the whole +simmer, gently stirring it all the time; also slice six eggs boiled +hard, then line a pie-dish with good short paste, and fill it with +alternate layers of the slices of salmon, hard eggs, and fillets of +anchovies, spreading between each layer the herb sauce, then cover the +dish with the paste, and bake in a moderately heated oven. + + * * * * * + +CHICKEN PUDDING. + +Line a basin with a good beef-suet paste, and fill it with chicken, +prepared in the following way: cut up a small chicken, lightly fry the +pieces, then place them in a stew-pan, with thin slices of _chorissa_, +or, if at hand, slices of smoked veal, add enough good beef gravy to +cover them; season with mushroom essence or powder, pepper, salt, and +a very small quantity of nutmeg, and mace; simmer gently for a quarter +of an hour, and fill the pudding; pour over part of the gravy and keep +the rest to be poured over the pudding when served in the dish. The +pudding, when filled, must be covered closely with the paste, the +ends of which should be wetted with a paste brush to make it adhere +closely. + + * * * * * + +A FINE BEEFSTEAK PIE. + +Cut two pounds of beef steaks into large collops, fry them quickly +over a brisk fire, then place them in a dish in two or three layers, +strewing between each, salt, pepper, and mushroom powder; pour over a +pint of strong broth, and a couple of table-spoonsful of Harvey-sauce; +cover with a good beef suet paste, and bake for a couple of hours. + +The most delicate manner of preparing suet for pastry is to clarify +it, and use it as butter; this will be found a very superior method +for meat pastry. + + * * * * * + +AN EASY RECEIPT FOR A CHARLOTTE RUSSE. + +Trim straitly about six ounces of savoy biscuits, so that they may fit +closely to each other; line the bottom and sides of a plain mould with +them, then fill it with a fine cream made in the following manner: put +into a stewpan three ounces of ratafias, six of sugar, the grated rind +of half an orange, the same quantity of the rind of a lemon, a small +piece of cinnamon, a wine-glass full of good maraschino, or fine +noyeau, one pint of cream, and the well beaten yolks of six eggs; stir +this mixture for a few minutes over a stove fire, and then strain it, +and add half a pint more cream, whipped, and one ounce of dissolved +isinglass. Mix the whole well together, and set it in a basin imbedded +in rough ice; when it has remained a short time in the ice fill the +mould with it, and then place the mould in ice, or in a cool place, +till ready to serve. + + * * * * * + +ANOTHER EXCELLENT RECEIPT FOR A FRUIT CHARLOTTE. + +Line a jelly mould with fine picked strawberries, which must first be +just dipped into some liquid jelly, to make them adhere closely, then +fill the mould with some strawberry cream, prepared as follows: take +a pottle of scarlet strawberries, mix them with half a pound of white +sugar, rub this through a sieve, and add to it a pint of whipped +cream, and one ounce and a half of dissolved isinglass; pour it into +the mould, which must be immersed in ice until ready to serve, and +then carefully turned out on the dish, and garnished according to +fancy. + + * * * * * + +ICED PUDDING. + +Parboil three quarters of a pound of Jordan almonds, and one quarter +of bitter almonds, remove the skins and beat them up to a paste, with +three quarters of a pound of white pounded sugar, add to this six +yolks of beaten eggs, and one quart of boiled cream, stir the whole +for a few minutes over a stove fire, strain it, and pour it into +a freezing pot, used for making ices; it should be worked with a +scraper, as it becomes set by freezing; when frozen sufficiently +firm, fill a mould with it, cover it with the lid, and let it remain +immersed in rough ice until the time for serving. + + * * * * * + +ITALIAN SALAD. + +Cut up the white parts of a cold fowl, and mix it with mustard and +cress, and a lettuce chopped finely, and pour over a fine salad +mixture, composed of equal quantities of vinegar and the finest salad +oil, salt, mustard, and the yolks of hard boiled eggs, and the yolk +of one raw egg, mixed smoothly together; a little tarragon vinegar is +then added, and the mixture is poured over the salad; the whites of +the eggs are mixed, and serve to garnish the dish, arranged in small +heaps alternately with heaps of grated smoked beef; two or three hard +boiled eggs are cut up with the chicken in small pieces and mixed with +the salad; this is a delicate and refreshing _entrée_; the appearance +of this salad may be varied by piling the fowl in the centre of the +dish, then pour over the salad mixture, and make a wall of any dressed +salad, laying the whites of the eggs (after the yolks have been +removed for the mixture), cut in rings on the top like a chain. + + + + +THE TOILETTE. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + + +The Complexion. + +The various cosmetics sold by perfumers, assuming such miraculous +powers of beautifying the complexion, all contain, in different +proportions, preparations of mercury, alcohol, acids, and other +deleterious substances, which are highly injurious to the skin; and +their continual application will be found to tarnish it, and produce +furrows and wrinkles far more unsightly than those of age, beside +which they are frequently absorbed by the vessels of the skin, enter +the system, and seriously disturb the general health. + +A fine fresh complexion is best ensured by the habitual use of soft +water, a careful avoidance of all irritants, such as harsh winds, +dust, smoke, a scorching sun, and fire heat; a strict attention to +diet, regular ablutions, followed by friction, frequent bathing, +and daily exercise, active enough to promote perspiration, which, +by carrying off the vicious secretions, purifies the system, and +perceptibly heightens the brilliancy of the skin. + +These are the simple and rational means pursued by the females of +the east to obtain a smooth and perfect skin, which is there made an +object of great care and consideration. And it is a plan attended, +invariably, with the most complete success. + +Cosmetic baths, composed of milk, combined with various emollient +substances are also in frequent use among the higher classes in the +East; and we have been informed that they are gradually gaining +favour in France and England. We shall give the receipt for one, as we +received it from the confidential attendant of an English lady, who is +in the habit of using it every week, and we can confidently recommend +it to the notice of our readers. + +The luxurious ladies of ancient Rome, who sacrificed so much time and +attention to the adornment of their persons, always superintended the +preparation of their cosmetics, which were of the most innocent and +simple description--the first receipt we subjoin was one in general +use with them, and will be found efficacious in removing roughness, +or coarseness, arising from accidental causes, and imparting that +polished smoothness so essential to beauty. + + * * * * * + +AN OLD ROMAN RECEIPT FOR IMPROVING THE SKIN. + +Boil a dessert spoonful of the best wheaten flour with half a pint of +fresh asses milk; when boiling, stir in a table-spoonful of the best +honey, and a tea-spoonful of rose water, then mix smoothly, place in +small pots, and use a little of it after washing; it is better not to +make much at a time, as when stale it is liable to irritate the skin. + + * * * * * + +A VALUABLE RECEIPT FOR THE SKIN. + +Boil in half a pint of new milk a thick slice of stale bread, and a +tea-spoonful of gum arabic; when boiled, set it at a little distance +from the fire to simmer almost to a jelly, then pass it through a +folded muslin, and stir in a spoonful of oil of almonds, and the same +quantity of honey, with a pinch of common salt; when cold it will be a +stiff jelly. A little of this mixture warmed and spread upon the skin, +about the thickness of a crown piece, and left on till it cools, will +remove, like magic, all appearance of the dry scurf to which some of +the finest skins are subject. + + * * * * * + +AN EMOLLIENT PASTE. + +Blanch half a pound of sweet almonds, and two ounces of bitter +almonds, and pound them in a mortar, then make them into a paste with +rose water; this paste is a fine emollient. + + * * * * * + +A SUPERIOR OINTMENT FOR CHAPS, ROUGHNESS, ETC. + +Mix with a gill of fresh cream a spoonful of beaten almonds; when +perfectly smooth put it in toilette pots, and use as ointment for +chaps, &c.; it will keep for a week if a little spirit of camphor is +added to it. + + * * * * * + +WASH FOR PIMPLES. + +Dissolve half a dram of salt of tartar in three ounces of spirit +of wine, and apply with soft linen; this is an excellent wash for +pimples, but, as these are in general the result of some derangement +of the system, it will be wiser to discover and remedy the cause, than +merely attending to the result. + + * * * * * + +LOTION FOR REMOVING FRECKLES. + +Mix one dram of spirit of salts, half a pint of rain water, and half +a tea-spoonful of spirit of lavender, and bottle for use. This lotion +will often be efficacious in removing freckles. + + * * * * * + +COLD CREAM. + +Warm gently together four ounces of oil of almonds, and one ounce of +white wax, gradually adding four ounces of rose water; this is one of +the best receipts for making cold cream. + + * * * * * + +A FINE SOAP. + +Blanch and beat to a paste two ounces of bitter almonds, with a small +piece of camphor, and one ounce and a half of tincture of Benjamin; +add one pound of curd soap in shavings, and beat and melt well +together, and pour into moulds to get cool; the above is a very fine +soap. + + * * * * * + +LIP SALVE. + +Mix together one ounce of white wax, the same of beef marrow, with a +small piece of alkanet root tied up in muslin; perfume it according +to fancy, strain, and pot while hot; the above is a fine salve for +chapped lips. + + * * * * * + +CHESNUT PASTE FOR RENDERING THE HANDS WHITE AND SOFT. + +Boil a dozen fine large chesnuts, peeled and skinned, in milk; when +soft beat them till perfectly smooth with rose water; a tea-spoonful +of this mixture thrown into the water before washing the hands renders +them beautifully white and soft. + + * * * * * + +SUPERIOR MILK OF ROSES. + +Boil fresh rose leaves in asses milk, and bottle it off for immediate +use; it will be found far more efficacious than the milk of roses sold +by perfumers. + + * * * * * + +AN EXCELLENT RECEIPT FOR LIP SALVE. + +Melt one ounce of spermacetti, soften sufficiently with oil of +almonds, color it with two or three grains of powdered cochineal, and +pour while warm into small toilet pots. We mention the cochineal to +colour the salve, it being usual to make lip salve of a pale rose +colour, but we should consider it far more healing in its effects +without it. + + * * * * * + +A COSMETIC BATH. + +Boil slowly one pound of starwort in two quarts of water, with half a +pound of linseed, six ounces of the roots of the water lily, and one +pound of bean meal; when these have boiled for two hours, strain the +liquor, and add to it two quarts of milk, one pint of rose water, and +a wine glass of spirits of camphor; stir this mixture into a bath of +about ninety-eight degrees. + + * * * * * + +SUPERIOR COLD CREAM. + +Melt together one drachm of spermacetti, the same quantity of white +wax, and two fluid ounces of oil of almond; while these are still +warm, beat up with them as much rose water as they will absorb. This +is a very healing kind of cold cream. The usual cold cream sold by +perfumers is nothing more than lard, beat up with rose-water, which is +heating and irritating to the skin. + + * * * * * + +PASTE FOR RENDERING THE SKIN SUPPLE AND SMOOTH (AN ENGLISH RECEIPT). + +Mix half a pound of mutton or goose fat well boiled down and beaten up +well with two eggs, previously whisked with a glass of rose-water; add +a table-spoonful of honey, and as much oatmeal as will make it into a +paste. Constant use of this paste will keep the skin delicately soft +and smooth. + + * * * * * + +TO REMOVE TAN. + +Cut a cucumber into pieces after having peeled it, and let the juice +drain from it for twelve hours, pour it off, and add to it an equal +quantity of orange flower-water, with a small piece of camphor +dissolved in a wine-glass of soft water, bottle the mixture, and wash +the parts that have been exposed to the sun two or three times in the +twenty-four hours. + + * * * * * + +EAU DE COLOGNE. + +Mix together one ounce of essence of bergamot, the same quantity of +essence of lemon, lavender, and orange flower-water, two ounces of +rosemary and honey-water, with one pint of spirits of wine; let the +mixture stand a fortnight, after which put it into a glass retort, the +body of which immerse in boiling water contained in a vessel placed +over a lamp (a coffee lamp will answer the purpose), while the beak of +the retort is introduced into a large decanter; keep the water boiling +while the mixture distils into the decanter, which should be covered +with cold wet cloths, in this manner excellent Eau de Cologne may be +obtained at a very small expense. + + * * * * * + +TRANSPARENT SOAP. + +Put into a bottle, windsor soap in shavings, half fill it with spirits +of wine, set it near the fire till the soap is dissolved, when, pour +it into moulds to cool. + + * * * * * + +MILK OF ROSES. + +Put into a bottle one pint of rose-water, one ounce of oil of almonds; +shake well together, then add fifty drops of oil of tartar. + + * * * * * + +HUNGARY WATER. + +Put into a bottle one pint of spirits of wine, one gill of water, and +half an ounce of oil of rosemary; shake well together. + + * * * * * + +LAVENDER WATER. + +Take three drachms of English oil of lavender, spirits of wine +one pint; shake in a quart bottle, then add one ounce of orange +flower-water, one ounce of rose-water, and four ounces of distilled +water; those who approve of the musky odour which lavender water +sometimes has, may add three drachms of essence of ambergris or musk. + + * * * * * + +ESSENCE OF ROSES. + +Put into a bottle the petals of the common rose, and pour upon them +spirits of wine, cork the bottle closely, and let it stand for three +months, it will then be little inferior to otto of roses. + + * * * * * + +ESSENCE OF LAVENDER. + +Is prepared according to the above recipe, the lavender being +substituted for the roses. + + * * * * * + +SCENT BAGS. + +Small bags filled with iris root diffuses a delicate perfume over +drawers, &c. A good receipt for a scent-bag is as follows: two pounds +of roses, half a pound of cyprus powder, and half a drachm of essence +of roses; the roses must be pounded, and with the powder put into silk +bags, the essence may be dropped on the outside. + + * * * * * + +ESSENCE OF MUSK. + +Mix one dram of musk with the same quantity of pounded loaf sugar; add +six ounces of spirits of wine; shake together and pour off for use. + + * * * * * + +OIL OF ROSES. + +A few drops of otto of roses dissolved in spirits of wine forms the +_esprit de rose_ of the perfumers--the same quantity dropped in sweet +oil forms their _huile antique a la rose_. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + + +The Hair. + +All stimulating lotions are injurious to the hair; it should be cut +every two months: to clean it, there is nothing better than an egg +beaten up to a froth, to be rubbed in the hair, and afterwards washed +off with elder flower-water; but clear soft water answers every +purpose of cleanliness, and is far better for the hair than is usually +imagined. + +One tea-spoonful of honey, one of spirits of wine, one of rosemary, +mixed in half a pint of rose-water, or elder flower-water, and the +same quantity of soft water, forms an excellent lotion for keeping the +hair clean and glossy. + +A fine pomatum is made by melting down equal quantities of mutton suet +and marrow, uncooked, and adding a little sweet oil to make it of a +proper consistency, to which any perfume may be added. If essence of +rosemary is the perfume used, it will be found to promote the growth +of the hair. Rum and oil of almonds will be of use for the same +purpose. A warm cloth to rub the hair after brushing imparts a fine +shiny smoothness. + +As a bandoline to make the hair set close, the following will be found +useful and cheap: take a cupful of linseed, pour over it sufficient +boiling water to over, let it stand some hours, and then pour over +three table spoonsful of rose-water; stir the seeds well about, and +strain it off into a bottle and it will be ready for use; or take a +tea-spoonful of gum arabic with a little Irish moss, boil them in half +a pint of water till half is boiled away; strain and perfume. + +To remove superfluous hairs, the following receipt will be found +effectual, although requiring time and perseverance: mix one ounce of +finely powdered pumice-stone with one ounce of powdered quick-lime, +and rub the mixture on the part from which the hair is to be removed, +twice in twenty-four hours; this will destroy the hair, and is an +innocent application. In the East, a depilatory is in use, which +we subjoin, but which requires great care in employing, as the +ingredients are likely to injure the skin if applied too frequently, +or suffered to remain on too long: mix with one ounce of quick-lime, +one ounce of orpiment; put the powder in a bottle with a glass +stopper; when required for use, mix it into a paste with barley-water; +apply this over the part, and let it remain some minutes, then gently +take it off with a silver knife, and the hairs will be found perfectly +removed; the part should then be fomented to prevent any of the powder +being absorbed by the skin, and a little sweet oil or cold cream +should be wiped over the surface with a feather. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + + +Teeth. + +Water is not always sufficient to clean the teeth, but great caution +should be used as to the dentifrices employed. + +Charcoal, reduced to an impalpable powder, and mixed with an equal +quantity of magnesia, renders the teeth white, and stops putrefaction. + +Also two ounces of prepared chalk, mixed with half the quantity of +powdered myrrh, may be used with confidence. + +Or, one ounce of finely powdered charcoal, one ounce of red kino, and +a table spoonful of the leaves of sage, dried and powdered. + +A most excellent dentifrice, which cleans and preserves the teeth, +is made by mixing together two ounces of brown rappee snuff, one of +powder of bark, and one ounce and a half of powder of myrrh. When the +gums are inclined to shrink from the teeth, cold water should be used +frequently to rinse the mouth; a little alum, dissolved in a pint of +water, a tea-cup full of sherry wine, and a little tincture of myrrh +or bark, will be found extremely beneficial in restoring the gums to a +firm and healthy state. This receipt was given verbally by one of our +first dentists. + +Every precaution should be used to prevent the accumulation of +tartar upon the teeth; this is best done by a regular attention to +cleanliness, especially during and after illness. "Prevention is +always better than cure," and the operation of scaling often leaves +the teeth weak and liable to decay. + +Acids of all sorts are injurious to the teeth, and very hot or cold +liquids discolour them. + +The best toothpick is a finely-pointed stick of cedar. Toothbrushes +should not be too hard, and should be used, not only to the teeth, +but to the gums, as friction is highly salutary to them. To polish the +front teeth, it is better to use a piece of flannel than a brush. + +Toothache is a very painful malady, and the sufferer often flies +to the most powerful spirits to obtain relief; but they afford only +temporary ease, and lay the foundation for increased pain. A poultice +laid on the gum not too hot takes off inflammation, or laudanum +and spirits of camphor applied to the cheek externally; or mix with +spirits of camphor an equal quantity of myrrh, dilute it with warm +water, and hold it in the mouth; also a few drops of laudanum and oil +of cloves applied to decayed teeth often affords instantaneous relief. + +Powdered cloves and powdered alum, rubbed on the gum and put in the +diseased tooth will sometimes lessen the pain. + +Toothache often proceeds from some irritation in the digestive organs +or the nervous system: in such cases pain can only be removed by +proper medical treatment. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + + +Hands. + +Nothing contributes more to the elegance and refinement of a lady's +appearance than delicate hands; and it is surprising how much it is +in the power of all, by proper care and attention, to improve +them. Gloves should be worn at every opportunity, and these should +invariably be of kid; silk gloves and mittens, although pretty and +tasteful, are far from fulfilling the same object. The hands should +be regularly washed in tepid water, as cold water hardens, and renders +them liable to chap, while hot water wrinkles them. All stains of ink, +&c., should be immediately removed with lemon-juice and salt: every +lady should have a bottle of this mixture on her toilette ready +prepared for the purpose. The receipts which we have already given +as emollients for the skin are suitable for softening the hands and +rendering them smooth and delicate. The nails require daily attention: +they should be cut every two or three days in an oval form. A piece of +flannel is better than a nail-brush to clean them with, as it does not +separate the nail from the finger. + +When dried, a little pummice-stone, finely powdered, with powdered +orris-root, in the proportion of a quarter of a tea-spoonful to a +tea-spoonful of the former, mixed together, and rubbed on the nails +gently, gives them a fine polish, and removes all inequalities. + +A piece of sponge, dipped in oil of roses and emery, may be used for +the same purpose. + +When the nails are disposed to break, a little oil or cold cream +should be applied at night. + +Sand-balls are excellent for removing hardness of the hands. Palm +soap, Castille soap, and those which are the least perfumed, should +always be preferred. Night-gloves are considered to make the hands +white and soft, but they are attended with inconvenience, besides +being very unwholesome; and the hands may be rendered as white as the +nature of the complexion will allow, by constantly wearing gloves in +the day-time, and using any of the emollients we have recommended for +softening and improving the skin. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + + +Dress. + +In dress, simplicity should be preferred to magnificence: it is +surely more gratifying to be admired for a refined taste, than for an +elaborate and dazzling splendour;--the former always produces pleasing +impressions, while the latter generally only provokes criticism. + +Too costly an attire forms a sort of fortification around a woman +which wards off the admiration she might otherwise attract. The true +art of dress is to make it harmonize so perfectly with the style +of countenance and figure as to identify it, as it were, with the +character of the wearer. + +All ornaments and trimmings should be adopted sparingly; trinkets and +jewellery should seldom appear to be worn merely for display; they +should be so selected and arranged as to seem necessary, either for +the proper adjustment of some part of the dress, or worn for the sake +of pleasing associations. + +Fashion should never be followed too closely, still less should +a singularity of style be affected; the prevailing mode should be +modified and adapted to suit individual peculiarity. The different +effect of colours and the various forms of dress should be duly +considered by every lady, as a refined taste in dress indicates a +correct judgment. + +A short stout figure should avoid the loose flowing robes and ample +drapery suitable for tall slight women; while these again should +be cautious of adopting fashions which compress the figure, give +formality, or display angles. The close-fitting corsage and tight +sleeve, becoming to the short, plump female, should be modified with +simple trimmings, to give fullness and width across the shoulders and +bust, and a rounded contour to the arms. Flounces and tucks, which +rise high in the skirt, are not suitable to short persons; they cut +the figure and destroy symetry. To tall women, on the contrary, +they add grace and dignity. Dresses made half high are extremely +unbecoming; they should either be cut close up to the throat or low. +It is, however, in bad taste to wear them very low on the shoulders +and bosom: in youth, it gives evidence of the absence of that modesty +which is one of its greatest attractions; and in maturer years it is +the indication of a depraved coquetry, which checks the admiration it +invites. + +It is always requisite for a lady to exert her own taste in the choice +of form, colour, and style, and not leave it to the fancy of her +dress-maker, as although the person she employs may be eminently +qualified for her profession, a lady who possesses any discernment can +best judge of what is suitable to her style of countenance and figure. + +In dress there should be but one prevailing colour, to which all +others should be adapted, either by harmonising with it, or by +contrast; in the latter case the relieving color should be in small +quantity, or it would overpower the other in effect, as a general +rule, sombre negative colours show off a woman to the greatest +advantage, just as the beauties of a painting are enhanced by being +set in a dull frame; still, there are some occasions with which the +gayer tints accord better, and as propriety and fitness are matters of +high consideration, the woman of taste must be guided in the selection +of her apparel by the knowledge of the purport for which it is +intended, always endeavouring to fix on that shade of colour which +best becomes her complexion. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + + +Effect of Diet on Complexion. + +As the color of the skin depends upon the secretions of the _rete +mucuosum_, or skin, which lies immediately beneath the _epedirmis_, or +scarf skin, and as diet is capable of greatly influencing the nature +of these secretions, a few words respecting it may not be here +entirely misplaced. + +All that is likely to produce acrid humours, and an inflamatory or +impoverished state of the blood, engenders vicious secretions, which +nature struggles to free herself from by the natural outlet of the +skin, for this organ is fitted equally, to _excrete and secrete_. +Fermented and spirituous liquors, strong tea and coffee should +be avoided, for they stimulate and exhaust the vital organs, and +interrupt the digestive functions, thereby producing irritation of +the internal linings of the stomach, with which the skin sympathises. +Water, on the other hand, is the most wholesome of all beverages, it +dilutes and corrects what is taken into the stomach, and contributes +to the formation of a perfect chyle. + +Milk is very nutritious, it produces a full habit of body, and +promotes plumpness, restores vigour and freshness, besides possessing +the property of calming the passions, and equalising the temper. + +Eggs are, in general, considered bilious, except in a raw state, when +they are precisely the reverse; this is a fact, now so universally +acknowledged, that they are always recommended in cases of jaundice +and other disorders of the bile. + +Spices, and highly seasoned meats import a dryness to the skin, and +render the body thin and meagre. + +Animal food taken daily requires constant exercise, or it is apt to +render the appearance coarse and gross. It should be combined with +farinaceous and vegetable food, in order to correct the heating +effects of a concentrated animal diet. + +Excess as to quantity should be strictly guarded against. When the +stomach is overloaded it distributes a badly digested mass throughout +the system, which is sure to be followed by irritation and disease, +and by undermining the constitution, is one of the most certain +methods of destroying beauty. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + + +Influence of the Mind as regards Beauty. + +All passions give their corresponding expression to the countenance; +if of frequent occurrence they mark it with lines as indelible as +those of age, and far more unbecoming. To keep these under proper +_control_ is, therefore, of high importance to beauty. Nature has +ordained that passions shall be but passing acts of the mind, which, +serving as natural stimulants, quicken the circulation of the blood, +and increase the vital energies; consequently, when tempered and +subdued by reason, they are rather conducive than otherwise, both to +beauty and to health. + +It is the _habitual frame of mind, the hourly range of thought_ which +render the countenance pleasing or repulsive; we should not forget +that "the face is the index of the mind." + +The exercise of the intellect and the development of noble sentiments +is as essential for the perfection of the one, as of the other, +fretful, envious, malicious, ill humoured feelings must never be +indulged by those who value their personal appearance, for the +existence of these chronic maladies of the mind, _cannot be +concealed_. + +"On peut tromper un autre, mais pas tous les autres." + +In the same way candour, benevolence, pity, and good temper, exert the +most happy influence over the whole person;--shine forth in every +look and every movement with a fascination which wins its way to all +hearts. + +Symmetry of form is a rare and exquisite gift, but there are other +conditions quite as indispensable to beauty. Let a woman possess but +a very moderate share of personal charms, if her countenance is +expressive of intellect and kind feelings, her figure buoyant with +health, and her attire distinguished by a tasteful simplicity, she +cannot fail to be eminently attractive, while ill health--a silly or +unamiable expression, and a vulgar taste--will mar the effect of form +and features the most symetrical. A clever writer has said, "Beauty +is but another name for that expression of the countenance which is +indicative of sound health, intelligence, and good feeling." If +so, how much of beauty is attainable to all! Health, though often +dependant upon circumstances beyond our control, can, in a great +measure, be improved by a rational observance of the laws which nature +has prescribed, to regulate the vital functions. + +Over intellect we have still more power. It is capable of being so +trained as to approach daily nearer and nearer to perfection. The +thoughts are completely under our own guidance and must never be +allowed to wander idly or sinfully; they should be encouraged to +dwell on subjects which elevate the mind and shield it from the petty +trivialities which irritate and degrade it. + +Nothing is more likely to engender bitter thoughts than idleness and +_ennui_. Occupations should be selected with a view to improve and +amuse; they should be varied, to prevent the lassitude resulting from +monotony; serious meditations and abstract studies should be relieved +by the lighter branches of literature; music should be assiduously +cultivated; nothing more refines and exalts the mind; not the mere +performance of mechanical difficulties, either vocal or instrumental, +for these, unless pursued with extreme caution, enlarge the hand and +fatigue the chest, without imparting the advantages we allude to. + +Drawing is highly calculated to enhance feminine beauty; the thoughts +it excites are soothing and serene, the gentle enthusiasm that is felt +during this delightful occupation not only dissipates melancholy +and morbid sensibility, but by developing the judgment and feeling, +imparts a higher tone of character to the expression of the +countenance. + +Indolent persons are apt to decide that they have "no taste" for such +or such pursuits, forgetting that tastes may be acquired by the mind +as well as by the palate, and only need a judicious direction. + +Frivolous employment, and vitiated sentiments would spoil the +finest face ever created. Body and mind are, in fact, so intimately +connected, that it is futile, attempting to embellish the one, while +neglecting the other, especially as the highest order of all beauty +is _the intellectual._ Let those females, therefore, who are the +most solicitous about their beauty, and the most eager to produce +a favourable impression, cultivate the _moral, religious, and +intellectual attributes_, and in this advice consists the recipe for +the finest cosmetic in the world, viz.--CONTENT. + + + + +INDEX. + +Almondegos soup, 11. +Almond pudding, 117. + rice, 126. + paste, 127. + tea-cakes, 152. +Amnastich, 83. +Apple charlotte, 139, 140. + jelly, 166. + sauce, 23. +Apricot jam, 165. + preserve, 164. + marmalade, 163. +Arrowroot pudding, 136. +Asparagus sauce, 28. + soup, 12. + +Barley milk, 178. + jelly, 177. + soup, 14. +Batter pudding, 135. +Beans, French, to stew with oil, 93. + _au beurre_, 96. + to pickle, 170. +Béchamel, 32. +Beef, rump, to stew, 53. + à la mode, or sour meat, 53, 54. + of, an olio, 52. +Beef, stewed with French beans, 54. + with white dried peas and beans, and celery, 56. + collops, 57. + cold roast, to warm, 57. + steak, with chesnuts, 58. + steak, stewed simply, 58. + hash of, 57. + brisket of, with vegetables, 59, 60. + brisket, with onions and raisins, 59. + tea, 171. + ragout of, 60. + steak pie, 188. + to salt, 61. + to spice, 61. + to smoke, 62. + _Blanc_, 51. +Blanching, directions for, 57. +Blancmange, 147. +Blanquette of veal, 70, 71. + of chicken, 71. +Boiling, rules for, 49. +Bola d'Amor, 114. + Toliedo, 115, 116. + d'Hispaniola, 116. +Bola, plain, 152. + small do. 152. +Bottling fruit, rules for, 161. +Braising, directions for, 52. +Brandy cherries, 162. +Bread crumbs for frying, 36. + and butter pudding, 130. + fruit-tart, 128. + pudding, 135. + sauce, 22. +Brocali, stewed, 93. +Broiling, directions on, 50. +Broth, chicken, 176. +Browned bread crumbs, 30. + flour, for colouring and thickening soups, sauces, and gravies, 30. +Butter cakes, 156. + melted, 25. + oiled, 24. + +Cabbage and rice stewed, 94. + red, stewed, 96. + to pickle, 172. +Cakes, observations respecting, 113, 114. + almond tea, 152. + rich plum, 153, 154. + siesta, 151. + sponge, 158. + pound, 156. + soda, 155. + diet bread, 154. + for Passover, 158. + a bola, 152. + a very plain, 155. + a plain lunch, without butter, 156. + breakfast, 159. + drop, 154. + cinnamon, 153. + butter, 156. + short, 156. + _matso_, 157. + icing for, 159. +Calf's head to stew, 64. + feet, stewed with Spanish sauce, 64. + au fritur, 65. + stewed simply, 65, 66. + jelly, 145. +Caper sauce, 27, 19. +Carrots, _au beurre_, 95. +Carp, stewed, 41, 42. +Cassereet, a, 81. +Casserole au riz, 101. +Caudle, 178. + rice, 178. +Cauliflower, to pickle, 170. +Celery, stewed with mutton, 75 +Celery sauce, 19. +Charlotte Russe, 189. + a fruit, 190. + apple, 139. +Chestnuts, stewed with steaks, 58. + to roast, 185. +Cheesecakes, 108. + savoury, 98. +Cherry batter pudding, 131. + preserved whole, 165. +Chejados, 119. +Chicken broth, 176. + pudding, 188. + panado, 175. +Chocolate, to make, 182. +Chorissa, 62. + omelette, 109. + stewed with rice and fowl, 83. +Cinnamon cakes, 153. +Citron pudding, 150. +Clarify to, suet, 52. + sugar, 160. +Cocoa nut pudding, 120. + doce, 120. +Coffee, French method of making, 120. +Collard veal, 67. +Collops, beef, 57. +College pudding, 131. +Colouring for soups and sauces, 2, 3, 30, 31. +Commeen, 55. +Consommé, 1, 2, 3. +Cooling, drink a, in fever, 94. +Creams, directions for making, 143, 189. +Crême brun, 128. +Cressy soup, 7. +Croquettes, 100. +Cucumbers, to pickle, 173. + sauce, 29. + mango, 94. +Cumberland pudding, 131. +Currant jelly, 165, 166. + jam, 165. +Curried veal, 68. + chicken, 68. +Custard pudding, 135. +Custards, 144. +Cutlets, veal, 68. + à la Française, 69. + in white sauce, 69. + in brown sauce, 70. + mutton, 78, 79. + lamb, with cucumbers, 81. + +Damson marmalade, 163. +Descaides, 89. +Devilled biscuits, 98. +Diet bread cake, 154. + for Passover, 158. +Doce, cocoa nut, 120. +Drink for a cough, 180. + an emollient, 181. + a cooling, in fever, 181. + a refreshing, 181. +Drop cakes, 154. +Duck stewed with peas, 85. + seasoning for, 27. +Dutch, stew of fish, 40. +Dutch toast, 87. + +Edgings of Potatoes, 91. + of rice, 91. +Egg paste, 105. + wine, 183. + balls, 36. + marmalade, 121. + sauce, 18. + English, do., 28. +Eggs, scallopped, 98. + savoury, 98. + _See_ omelette. +Escobeche, 34. + +Farcie, _see_ forcemeat. +Fish, directions for boiling and broiling, 37. + fried in oil, 38. + in butter, 39. + a soup, 15. + sauce without butter, 21. + sauce to bottle, 22. + stewed white, 39, + brown, 41. + stewed in Dutch fashion, 40. + salad, 44, 40. + fritters, 47. + omelette, 47. + scallopped, 58. + baked haddocks, 43. + herrings, 43, 44. + mackarel, 44. + escobeche, 34. + stewed carp, 41, 42. + of, fillets, 42. + water souchy, 41. + impanado, 55. + white bait, 45, 46. + fricandelle, 46. +Fondeaux, 102. +Fondu, 102. +Forcemeat, directions for making, 33. + for risoles, fritters, balls, &c., 33, 34. + of fish for croquettes, &c., 35. + for dressing fish fillets, 35. + for dressing cutlets, 35, 36. +Fowls, a savoury way of roasting, 82. + forced and boned, 82. + boiled, 83. + blanquette of, 85. + curried, 84. + stewed with rice, 83. + a nice way of dressing with sweetbread, 84. + broiled with mushrooms, 86. +Fricandelle, Dutch, 46. +Fricandelles, 72. +Fricandeux, a, white, 62. + brown,63. + a, superior receipt, 67. +Fricassee of veal, 63. + of sweetbreads, 74. +Fritters of rice, 125. + of French roll, 123. +Fruit pies, 106. +Frying, directions for, 50. + +Gateau de tours, 138. + de pomme, 139. +Geese, seasoning for, 27. +German puffs, 117. +Gherkins, to pickle, 170. +Giblet soup, 14. + stewed, 86. + pie, 108. +Glazing, directions for, 51. +Gloucester jelly, 177. +Gooseberry jam, 165. +Gravy soup, 3. +Gravy, a rich brown, 17. + for roast fowls, 18. + another for ditto, 18. + ditto, when there is no meat to make it with, 20. + to draw strong, 24. +Green, colouring for soups, &c., 31. +Grimstich, 122. +Grosvenor pudding, 149. + +Haddocks, to roast or bake, 33. +Haman's fritters, 123. +Harricot, a, 76. +Hartshorn jelly, 176. +Hash a, to make, 57. +Herbs, savoury, for seasoning soups, &c., 27. +Herrings smoked, a nice way of dressing, 43. + +Iced pudding, 190. +Iceing for cakes, 159. +Impanado, 45. +Irish stew, 77. + moss, 180. +Italian salad, 191. +Italian cream, 143. + +Jams, to make, 165. +Jaumange, 138. +Jerusalem artichokes, 96. +Jelly, savoury, 20. +Jellies, calf's-feet, 145. + orange, 146. + lemon, 146. + hartshorn, 176. +Jellies, Gloucester, 177. + punch, 146. + bread, 177. + noyeau, 146. + apple, 166. + barley, 177. + currant, 165. +Juditha, a, 148. +Julienne, soup à la, 5. + +Kimmel meat, 54. +Kugel and commeen, 55. + +Lamb, stewed with sprew, 79. + with peas, 80. + cutlets and cucumbers, 80, 81. + shoulder of, a nice receipt for, 81. +Lamplich, 124. +Larding, 51. +Lemon tarts, 126. + jelly, 146. +Luction, 118. + +Maccaroni with cheese, 99. + pudding, 136. +Mackarel, baked, 44. +Macrotes, 121. +Malagatany soup, 4. + English do. 5. +Maigre soup, 12. +Maintenont cutlets, 76. +Marmalades, 163. +Melon mango, 171. +Milk, barley, 179. + porridge, 178. + restorative, 179. +Mince meat, 121. + pies, 110. +Minced veal, 71. +Miroton, a, 71, 72. +Mint sauce, 23. +Mock turtle soup, 3. +Melina pie, 109. +Matso cakes, 157. + fried, 157. + diet bread, 158. +Mushrooms _au naturel_, 96. + large flap, 97. + to pickle, 172. + sauce, 25. +Mutton, a French receipt for roasting, 75. + stewed with celery, 75. + a simple way of dressing, 76. + cutlets maintenant, 76. + a haricot, 76. + Irish stew, 77. + a l'Hispaniola, 77. + collops, 77, 78. + cutlets, 78, 79. + smoked, 79. + +Nouilles paste, 105. +Noyeau cream, 143. + jelly, 146. + +Oil twist, 153. +Olio, 52. +Omelet sweet, 142. + souflé, 142. + savoury, 99. + chorissa, 109. +Onion sauce, 23. + to pickle, 172. +Orange jelly, 146. +Orgeat, 180. +Ox-tail soup, 16. + +Palestine soup, 8. + salad, 99. +Pancakes, 129. + for children, 129. +Parsley crisped, 30. +Parsley fried, 31. +Partridges, 185. +Passover pudding, 133. + ditto, 133. + ditto, 133. + fritters, 134. + a superior kind, 134. + ditto with currants, 134. + balls for soup, 9,10. + diet bread, 158. + cakes, 157. +Pastry, directions for making, 103. + plain puff paste, 104. + rich, ditto, 105. + short crust, 105. + nouilles or egg paste, 105. + beef dripping paste, 106. + glaize for, 106. +Patty meats, 110. +Peas-soup, summer, 13, 14. + winter, 13. + stewed with oil, 93. +Pears to stew, 150 + to bake, 151. + syrup of, 160. +Pepper pot, 6. +Pheasants, to roast, 185. +Piccalili, 171. +Pickling, rules for, 169. +Pie a fruit, 106. + giblet, 108. + a savoury, 107 + a ditto for persons of delicate digestion, 88. + a beef steak, 188. + a French plum, 185. + salmon, 187. +Pigeons, 86. +Pippins, stewed, 151, +Piqué, _see_ larding. +Plum cake, 153. + jam, 167. + pudding, 132. + _Poelée_, 51. +Pommes frites, 13. +Porridge, 179. +Potatoes, to mash, 91. + balls, 91. + wall, 91, 92. + shavings, 92. + soup of, 7. +Poultry cold, to warm, 85. +Pound cake, 156. +Prenesas, 118. +Preparation for cutlets, 36. +Preserving, observations on, 161. +Puddings, directions for, 112. + plum, 132. + millet, arrowroot, ground rice, tapioca, sago, 136. + Passover for, 133. + iced, 190. + almond, 117. + cocoa nut, 120. + citron, 150. + Grosvenor, 149. + Yorkshire, 136. + suet, 137. + bread, 135. + rice, 130. + custard, 135. + batter, 135. + cherry batter, 131. + ratafia, 132. + college, 131. + Cumberland, 131. + rich bread and butter, 130. +Punch, 183. + jelly, 144. + whiskey, 184. + milk, 184. +_Pureé_ of vegetables, 96. + +Quince marmalade, 163. + +Rachael, a, 118. +Ragout of beef, 60. +Ramakins, 100. +Raspberries preserved whole, 165. + jam, 165. + jelly, 166. +Ratafia pudding, 132. +Restorative milk, 176. + jelly, 179. +Rice fritters, 125. + pudding for children, 130. + fruit tart, 127. + souflé, 143. + custard, 128. + caudle, 178. + wall, 91. +Risoles, 33, 34, 100. +Roasting, rules for, 50. +Rump of beef stewed, 53. +Russe, a charlotte, 139. + +Salmon cutlets, 42. + pie, 187. +Sauces, piquante, 17. + egg, 18. + English, do., 28. + celery, 19. + tomato, 19. + for steaks, 21. + without butter for fish, 21. + for fish to keep, 22. + to serve with ducks, 22. + oiled butter, 24. + bread, 22. + apple, 23. + onions, 23. + melted butter, 25. + mushroom, 24. + white, to throw over vegetables, 26. + for puddings without butter, 26. + Robert, 26. + caper, 27, 19. + à la Tartare, 28. + for roast mutton, 28. + asparagus, 28. + cucumber, white, 29. + brown, 29. + velouté, 31. + béchamel, 32. +Sauer krout, 56. +Savoury jelly, 20. + herb powder, 27. +Seasoning for poultry, 27. +Siesta, a, 151. +Soda cake, 155. +Sopa d'ora, 119. +Souflè, 140, 141. + omelette, 142. + rice, 143. +Soups, almondegos, a superior white soup, 11. + asparagus, 12. + cressy, 7. + malagatany, 4. + English do., 5. + gravy, 3. + barley, 14. + carrot, 8. + giblet, 14. + Julienne, 5. + mock turtle, 3. + matso, 9. + Palestine, 8. + de poisson, or fish, 15. + ox tail, 16. + peas, summer, 13. + winter, 14. + potatoe, 7. + à la turque, 6. + vermicelli, 9. + white, a, 9. + tomato, 10. + vegetable, or French, 11. +Spanish beans and peas, 29. +Spinach à la Française, 92. +Sponge cakes, 158. +Spring dish, a, 95. +Staffin, 125. +Steak stewed with chestnuts, 58. + stewed simply, 58. +Stewing, rules for, 50. +Stock--see _consommé_. +Strawberries preserved whole, 164. + jam, 165. + jelly, 166. +Suet to clarify, 52. +Sugar to clarify, 160. +Sweetbreads roasted, 73. + stewed white, 73. + brown, 74. + fricasseed, 73. + +Tart de moy, 122. +Tartlets, 107. +Tendons of veal, 66. +Thickening for soups and sauces, 2. +Timbale of maccaroni, 87. +Tomato soup, 10. + sauce, 17. + dry soup, a, 97. +Tourte à la creme, 149. +Trifle, an easy one, 137. + a still more simple and quickly made, 147. +Truffle sauce, 20. +Turke soup, à la, 6. +Turkey boned and forced, 82. + +Veal, a white fricandeaux of, 62. + brown, do. 63. + tendons of, 66. + fricandeaux, 67. + collard, 67. + curried, 68. + cutlets, 68, 69. 70. + blanquette of, 70. + minced, 71. + stuffing, 34. + miroton of, 71, 72. + smoked, 73. +Vegetable or French soup, 11. + observations on, 90. +Velouté, 31. +Venison to roast, 186. + a pasty, 186. +Vermicelli pudding, 136. + soup, 9. +Vol-au-vent, 109. + de fruit, 110. + petits, 110. + +Waflers, 126. +Walnuts, to pickle, 173. +Water souchy, 41. +Whey wine, 179. + tamarind, 179. + plain, 180. +White bait, 45, 46. +White soup, 9. + superior, do., 11. +Wine, mulled, 183. + egg, 183. + +Yorkshire pudding, 138. + + + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's The Jewish Manual, by Judith Cohen Montefiore + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE JEWISH MANUAL *** + +***** This file should be named 12327-8.txt or 12327-8.zip ***** +This and all associated files of 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For +example an eBook of filename 10234 would be found at: + + https://www.gutenberg.org/1/0/2/3/10234 + +or filename 24689 would be found at: + https://www.gutenberg.org/2/4/6/8/24689 + +An alternative method of locating eBooks: + https://www.gutenberg.org/GUTINDEX.ALL + + diff --git a/old/12327-8.zip b/old/12327-8.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a44d738 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/12327-8.zip diff --git a/old/12327.txt b/old/12327.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..ac47775 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/12327.txt @@ -0,0 +1,6718 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Jewish Manual, by Judith Cohen Montefiore + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The Jewish Manual + Practical Information In Jewish And Modern Cookery With a Collection + of Valuable Recipes & Hints Relating to the Toilette + + +Author: Judith Cohen Montefiore + +Release Date: May 11, 2004 [EBook #12327] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE JEWISH MANUAL *** + + + + +Produced by David Starner, Jonathan Chaney and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team. + + + + + + +The Jewish Manual; + +OR + +Practical Information in Jewish And Modern Cookery, + +With a Collection of Valuable Recipes & Hints Relating to the +Toilette. + + + +Edited by a Lady. + + + +LONDON: 1846. + + + + +EDITOR'S PREFACE. + +Among the numerous works on Culinary Science already in circulation, +there have been none which afford the slightest insight to the Cookery +of the Hebrew kitchen. + +Replete as many of these are with information on various important +points, they are completely valueless to the Jewish housekeeper, not +only on account of prohibited articles and combinations being assumed +to be necessary ingredients of nearly every dish, but from the entire +absence of all the receipts peculiar to the Jewish people. + +This deficiency, which has been so frequently the cause of +inconvenience and complaint, we have endeavoured in the present little +volume to supply. And in taking upon ourselves the responsibility of +introducing it to the notice of our readers, we have been actuated +by the hope that it will prove of some practical utility to those for +whose benefit it is more particularly designed. + +It has been our earnest desire to simplify as much as possible the +directions given regarding the rudiments of the art, and to render the +receipts which follow, clear, easy, and concise. Our collection will +be found to contain all the best receipts, hitherto bequeathed only +by memory or manuscript, from one generation to another of the Jewish +nation, as well as those which come under the denomination of plain +English dishes; and also such French ones as are now in general use at +all refined modern tables. + +A careful attention has been paid to accuracy and economy in the +proportions named, and the receipts may be perfectly depended upon, as +we have had the chief part of them tested in our own kitchen and under +our own _surveillance_. + +All difficult and expensive modes of cookery have been purposely +omitted, as more properly belonging to the province of the +confectioner, and foreign to the intention of this little work; the +object of which is, to guide the young Jewish housekeeper in the +luxury and economy of "The Table," on which so much of the pleasure of +social intercourse depends. + +The various acquirements, which in the present day are deemed +essential to female education, rarely leave much time or inclination +for the humble study of household affairs; and it not unfrequently +happens, that the mistress of a family understands little more +concerning the dinner table over which she presides, than the graceful +arrangement of the flowers which adorn it; thus she is incompetent to +direct her servant, upon whose inferior judgment and taste she is +obliged to depend. She is continually subjected to impositions from +her ignorance of what is required for the dishes she selects, while a +lavish extravagance, or parsimonious monotony betrays her utter +inexperience in all the minute yet indispensible details of elegant +hospitality. + +However, there are happily so many highly accomplished and +intellectual women, whose example proves the compatability of uniting +the cultivation of talents with domestic pursuits, that it would be +superfluous and presumptuous were we here to urge the propriety and +importance of acquiring habits of usefulness and household knowledge, +further than to observe that it is the unfailing attribute of a +superior mind to turn its attention occasionally to the lesser objects +of life, aware how greatly they contribute to its harmony and its +happiness. + +The _Cuisine_ of a woman of refinement, like her dress or her +furniture, is distinguished, not for its costliness and profusion, but +for a pervading air of graceful originality. She is quite sensible +of the regard due to the reigning fashion of the day, but her own +tasteful discrimination is always perceptible. She instinctively +avoids every thing that is hackneyed, vulgar, and common place, +and uniformly succeeds in pleasing by the judicious novelties she +introduces. + +We hope, therefore, that this unpretending little work may not prove +wholly unacceptable, even to those ladies who are not of the Hebrew +persuasion, as it will serve as a sequel to the books on cookery +previously in their possession, and be the medium of presenting them +with numerous receipts for rare and exquisite compositions, which if +uncommemorated by the genius of Vatel, Ude, or Careme, are delicious +enough not only to gratify the lovers of good cheer generally, but to +merit the unqualified approbation of the most fastidious epicures. + +We ought, perhaps, to apologize for the apparent incongruity of +connecting the "Toilet" with the "Kitchen;" but the receipts and +suggestions comprised in the Second Part of the work before us, +will not, we trust, be considered misplaced in a volume addressed +exclusively to the ladies. + +Many of the receipts are for articles in common use, but which, with +proper directions, are prepared with greater economy and in a superior +manner at home; the others are all original receipts, many of them +extremely ancient, and given to us by a person who can vouch for their +efficacy from personal experience and observation. + +We must now conclude our preliminary remarks, but cannot take leave of +our patient readers without availing ourselves of the opportunity our +editorial capacity affords, to express our hope, that with all its +faults and deficiencies "The Jewish Manual" may prove to them a useful +assistant, and be fortunate enough to meet with their lenient, kind, +and favourable consideration. + + + + +CONTENTS. + + * * * * * + +PART I. + +INTRODUCTION. + + +MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS FOR THE USE OF THE COOK + + * * * * * + +CHAPTER I. SOUPS + +CHAPTER II. SAUCES AND FORCEMEAT + +CHAPTER III. FISH + +CHAPTER IV. MEATS AND POULTRY COOKED IN VARIOUS WAYS + +CHAPTER V. VEGETABLES, OMELETTES, FONDEAUX, CROQUETTES, RISOLES, &C. + +CHAPTER VI. PASTRY + +CHAPTER VII. SWEET DISHES, PUDDINGS, JELLIES, CREAMS, CHARLOTTES, +SOUFLES, GATEAUX, TRIFLES, CUSTARDS, CAKES, &C. + +CHAPTER VIII. PRESERVES AND BOTTLING + +CHAPTER IX. PICKLING + +CHAPTER X. RECEIPTS FOR INVALIDS + +APPENDIX + + +THE TOILETTE. + + * * * * * + +CHAPTER I. THE COMPLEXION, &c., &c. + +CHAPTER II. THE HAIR + +CHAPTER III. THE TEETH + +CHAPTER IV. THE HANDS AND NAILS + +CHAPTER V. DRESS + +CHAPTER VI. EFFECTS OF DIET ON THE COMPLEXION + +CHAPTER VII. INFLUENCE OF THE MIND AS REGARDS BEAUTY + + + + +GLOSSARY. + + +_Aspie_, a term used for savoury jelly, in which cold poultry, meat, +&c., is often served. + +_Bain-Marie_. This is a large pan filled with boiling water, in which +several saucepans can be placed when their contents are required to be +kept hot without boiling--this is a useful article in a kitchen, where +the manner in which sauces are prepared is considered deserving of +attention. + +_Bechamel_, a superior kind of white sauce, used in French cookery. + +_Blanquette_, a kind of fricassee with a white sauce. + +_Bola-d'amour_, a very rich and expensive Spanish confection. + +_Bolas_, a kind of rich cake or pudding. + +_Cassereet_, a sauce prepared from the cassada, a West Indian +plant--it must be used with moderation. + +_Casserole_, a name given to a crust formed of rice baked, and then +filled with mince, fricassee, or fruit. + +_Chorissa_, a sausage peculiar to the Jewish kitchen, of delicate and +_piquante_ flavour. + +_Consomme_, is a term now used for stock--it is a clear strong broth, +forming the basis of all soups, sauces, gravies, &c. + +_Croquettes_ and _Risoles_; preparations of forcemeat, formed into +fancy shapes, and fried. + +_Croutons_, sippets of bread or toast, to garnish hashes, salmis, &c., +are so called. + +_Doce_, a mixture of sugar with almonds _or_ cocoa-nut. + +_Entrees_. These are side-dishes, for the first course, consisting +of cutlets, vol au vents, fricassees, fillets, sweetbreads, salmis, +scallops, &c., &c. + +_Entremets_. These are side-dishes for the second course; they +comprise dressed vegetables, puddings, gateaux, pastries, fritters, +creams, jellies, timbales, &c. + +_Farcie_, a French term for forcemeat; it is a mixture of savoury +ingredients, used for croquettes, balls, &c. Meat is by no means a +necessary ingredient, although the English word might seem to imply +the contrary. + +_Fondeaux_, and Fondus, are savoury kinds of soufles. + +_Fricandeaux_, a term for small well-trimmed pieces of meat, stewed in +various ways. + +_Fricassee_. This is a name used for delicate stews, when the articles +are cut in pieces. + +_Fricandelles_. These are very small fricandeaux, two or three of +which are served on one dish, and they sometimes also are delicate, +but highly-flavoured minces, formed into any approved shapes. + +Flanks are large standing side-dishes. + +_Gateaux_, is a kind of cake or pudding. + +_Hors d'oeuvres._ These are light entrees in the first course; they +are sometimes called _assiettes_ volantes; they are handed during the +first course; they comprise anchovies, fish salads, patties of various +kinds, croquettes, risolles, maccaroni, &c. + +_Maigre_, made without meat. + +_Matso_, Passover cakes. + +_Miroton_, a savoury preparation of veal or poultry, formed in a +mould. + +_Nouilles_, a kind of vermicelli paste. + +_Pique_, a French term used to express the process of larding. The +French term is a preferable one, as it more clearly indicates what is +meant. + +_Puree_ is a term given to a preparation of meat or vegetables, +reduced to a pulp, and mixed with any kind of sauce, to the +consistency of thick cream. _Purees_ of vegetables are much used in +modern cookery, to serve with cutlets, callops, &c. + +_Ramekin_, a savoury and delicate preparation of cheese, generally +served in fringed paper cases. + +_Releves_, or _Removes_, are top and bottom dishes, which replace the +soup and fish. + +_Salmis_, a hash, only a superior kind, being more delicately +seasoned, and usually made of cold poultry. + +_Soufles_, a term applied to a very light kind of pudding, made +with some farinaceous substance, and generally replaces the roast of a +second course. + +_Timbale_, a shape of maccaroni or rice made in a mould. + +_Vol-au-vent_. This is a sort of case, made of very rich puff paste, +filled with delicate fricassee of fish, meat, or poultry, or richly +stewed fruits. + +_Veloute_, an expensive white sauce. + + + + +OBSERVATIONS FOR THE USE OF THE COOK. + + +The receipts we have given are capable of being varied and modified by +an intelligent pains-taking cook, to suit the tastes of her employers. + +Where _one_ receipt has been thought sufficient to convey the +necessary instruction for several dishes, &c., &c., it has not been +repeated for each respectively, which plan will tend to facilitate her +task. + +We might, had we been inclined, have increased our collection +considerably by so doing, but have decided, from our own experience, +that it is preferable to give a limited number clearly and fully +explained, as these will always serve as guides and models for others +of the same kind. + +The cook must remember it is not enough to have ascertained the +ingredients and quantities requisite, but great care and attention +must be paid to the manner of mixing them, and in watching their +progress when mixed and submitted to the fire. + +The management of the oven and the fire deserve attention, and cannot +be regulated properly without practice and observation. + +The art of seasoning is difficult and important. + +Great judgment is required in blending the different spices or other +condiments, so that a fine flavour is produced without the undue +preponderance of either. + +It is only in coarse cooking that the flavour of onions, pepper, +garlic, nutmeg, and eschalot is permitted to prevail. As a general +rule, salt should be used in moderation. + +Sugar is an improvement in nearly all soups, sauces, and gravies; also +with stewed vegetables, but of course must be used with discretion. + +Ketchups, Soy, Harvey's sauce, &c., are used too indiscrimately by +inferior cooks; it is better to leave them to be added at table by +those who approve of their flavour. + +Any thing that is required to be warmed up a second time, should be +set in a basin placed in a _bain-marie_, or saucepan, filled with +boiling water, but which must not be allowed to boil; or the article +will become hardened and the sauce dried up. + +To remove every particle of fat from the gravies of stews, &c., a +piece of white blotting-paper should be laid on the surface, and the +fat will adhere to it; this should be repeated two or three times. + +It is important to keep saucepans well skimmed; the best prepared dish +will be spoiled by neglect on this point. + +The difference between good and bad cookery is particularly +discernible in the preparation of forcemeats. A common cook is +satistified if she chops or minces the ingredients and moistens them +with an egg scarcely beaten, but this is a very crude and imperfect +method; they should be pounded together in a mortar until not a lump +or fibre is perceptible. Further directions will be given in the +proper place, but this is a rule which must be strictly attended to by +those who wish to attain any excellence in this branch of their art. + +Eggs for forcemeats, and for every description of sweet dishes, should +be thoroughly beaten, and for the finer kinds should be passed through +a sieve. + +A trustworthy zealous servant must keep in mind, that waste and +extravagance are no proofs of skill. On the contrary, GOOD COOKERY +is by no means expensive, as it makes the most of every thing, and +furnishes out of simple and economical materials, dishes which are at +once palatable and elegant. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + + +Soups. + +STOCK OR CONSOMME. + +This is the basis of all kinds of soup and sauces. Shin of beef or +ox-cheek make excellent stock, although good gravy-beef is sometimes +preferred; the bones should always be broken, and the meat cut up, as +the juices are better extracted; it is advisable to put on, at first, +but very little water, and to add more when the first quantity is +nearly dried up. The time required for boiling depends upon the +quantity of meat; six pounds of meat will take about five hours; if +bones, the same quantity will require double the time. + +Gravy beef with a knuckle of veal makes a fine and nutritious stock; +the stock for white soups should be prepared with veal or white +poultry. Very tolerable stock can be procured without purchasing meat +expressly for the purpose, by boiling down bones and the trimmings of +meat or poultry. + +The liquor in which beef or mutton intended for the table has been +boiled, will also, with small additions and skilful flavoring, make an +excellent soup at a trifling expense. + +To thicken soups, mix a little potatoe-flour, ground rice, or pounded +vermicelli, in a little water, till perfectly smooth; add a little of +the soup to it in a cup, until sufficiently thin, then pour it into +the rest and boil it up, to prevent the raw taste it would otherwise +have; the presence of the above ingredients should not be discovered, +and judgment and care are therefore requisite. + +If colouring is necessary, a crust of bread stewed in the stock will +give a fine brown, or the common browning may be used; it is made in +the following manner: + +Put one pound of coarse brown sugar in a stew-pan with a lump of +clarified suet; when it begins to froth, pour in a wine-glass of port +wine, half an ounce of black pepper, a little mace, four spoonsful +of ketchup or Harvey's sauce, a little salt, and the peel of a lemon +grated; boil all together, let it grow cold, when it must be skimmed +and bottled for use. + +It may also be prepared as required, by putting a small piece of +clarified fat with one ounce of coarse sugar, in an iron spoon, +melting them together, and stirring in a little ketchup and pepper. + +When good stock or consomme is prepared, it is very easy to form it +into any kind of soup or sauce that may be required. + + * * * * * + +GRAVY SOUP. + +Take about three quarts of any strong stock, seasoned with a bunch of +sweet herbs, a carrot, turnip, and a head of celery, which must not +be served in the soup. Vermicelli, maccaroni, or thin slices of carrot +and small sippets of fried bread cut in fancy shapes, are usually +served in this soup. + + * * * * * + +MOCK TURTLE. + +Half boil a well-cleaned calf's head, then cut off all the meat in +small square pieces, and break the bones; return it to the stew-pan, +with some good stock made of beef and veal; dredge in flour, add fried +shalot, pepper, parsley, tarragon, a little mushroom ketchup, and a +pint of white wine; simmer gently until the meat is perfectly soft and +tender. Balls of force-meat, and egg-balls, should be put in a +short time before serving; the juice of a lemon is considered an +improvement. + + * * * * * + +MULIGATAWNY SOUP. + +Take two chickens, cut them up small, as if for fricassee, flour +them well, put them in a saucepan with four onions shred, a piece of +clarified fat, pepper, salt, and two table spoonsful of curry powder; +let it simmer for an hour, then add three quarts of strong beef gravy, +and let it continue simmering for another hour; before sent to table +the juice of a lemon should be stirred in it; some persons approve of +a little rice being boiled with the stock, and a pinch of saffron is +also sometimes added. + + * * * * * + +ENGLISH MULIGATAWNY. + +Take a knuckle of veal, stew it till half done, then cut off the +greatest part of the meat, and continue to stew down the bone in +the stock, the meat must be cut into small pieces and fried with six +onions thinly sliced, and a table spoonful of curry powder, a desert +spoonful of cayenne pepper and salt, add the stock and let the whole +gently simmer for nearly an hour, flavouring it with a little Harvey's +sauce and lemon pickle. + + * * * * * + +SOUP A LA JULIENNE. + +Take a variety of vegetables: such as celery, carrots, turnips, leeks, +cauliflower, lettuce, and onions, cut them in shreds of small size, +place them in a stew-pan with a little fine salad oil, stew them +gently over the fire, adding weak broth from time to time; toast a +few slices of bread and cut them into pieces the size and shape of +shillings and crowns, soak them in the remainder of the broth, and +when the vegetables are well done add all together and let it simmer +for a few minutes; a lump of white sugar, with pepper and salt are +sufficient seasoning. + + * * * * * + +SOUPE A LA TURQUE. + +Make a good gravy from shin of beef, and cut up very small various +sorts of vegetables of whatever may be in season, add spices, pepper, +and salt; when it is all stewed well down together, set it to cool and +take off the fat, then place it again on the fire to boil, and add to +two quarts of soup, one quarter of a pound of rice, beat two yolks of +eggs with a little of the stock, and when the rice is quite tender, +stir them into the soup, taking the precaution not to let the soup +boil, and to stir always the same way. + + * * * * * + +PEPPER POT. + +Cut small pieces of any vegetables, and add pieces of smoked or salt +beef, and also of any cold poultry, roast beef or mutton, stew all +these together in two or three quarts of water, according to the +quantity of meat, &c. It must be seasoned highly with whole peppers, +allspice, mace, Jamaica pickles, and salt; it must be thoroughly +stewed, and served, without straining, in a tureen. + + * * * * * + +POTATOE SOUP. + +Grate a pound of fine potatoes in two quarts of water, add to it the +trimmings of any meat, amounting to about a pound in quantity, a cup +of rice, a few sweet herbs, and a head of celery, stew well till the +liquor is considerably reduced, then strain it through a sieve; if, +when strained, it is too thin and watery, add a little thickening; it +should be flavoured only with white pepper and salt. + + * * * * * + +SOUP CRESSY. + +Grate six carrots, and chop some onions with a lettuce, adding a few +sweet herbs, put them all into a stewpan, with enough of good broth +to moisten the whole, adding occasionally the remainder; when nearly +done, put in the crumb of a French roll, and when soaked, strain the +whole through a sieve, and serve hot in a tureen. + + * * * * * + +CARROT SOUP. + +Take a dozen carrots scraped clean, rasp them, but do not use the +core, two heads of celery, two onions thinly sliced, season to taste, +and pour over a good stock, say about two quarts, boil it, then pass +it through a sieve; it should be of the thickness of cream, return it +to the saucepan, boil it up and squeeze in a little lemon juice, or +add a little vinegar. + + * * * * * + +PALESTINE SOUP. + +Stew a knuckle of veal, and a calf's foot, and one pound of +_chorissa_, and a large fowl, in four quarts of water, add a piece of +fresh lemon peel, six Jerusalem artichokes, a bunch of sweet herbs, +a little salt and white pepper, and a little nutmeg, and a blade of +mace; when the fowl is thoroughly done, remove the white parts to +prepare for thickening, and let the rest continue stewing till the +stock is sufficiently strong, the white parts of the fowl must be +pounded and sprinkled with flower or ground rice, and stirred in the +soup after it has been strained, until it thickens. + + * * * * * + +A SIMPLE WHITE SOUP. + +Break a knuckle of veal, place it in a stewpan, also a piece of +_chorissa_, a carrot, two onions, three or four turnips, and a blade +of mace, pour over two or three quarts of water or weak broth, +season with salt, a sprig of parsley, and whole white pepper; when +sufficiently boiled, skim and strain it, and thicken with pounded +vermicelli. + + * * * * * + +VERMICELLI SOUP. + +Make a fine strong stock from the shin of beef, or any other part +preferred, and add, a short time before serving, a handful of +vermicelli, which should be broken, so that it may be in pieces of +convenient length, the stock should be more or less flavoured with +vegetables, and herbs, according to taste. + + * * * * * + +MATSO SOUP. + +Boil down half a shin of beef, four pounds of gravy beef, and a calf's +foot may be added, if approved, in three or four quarts of water; +season with celery, carrots, turnips, pepper and salt, and a bunch of +sweet herbs; let the whole stew gently for eight hours, then strain +and let it stand to get cold, when the fat must be removed, then +return it to the saucepan to warm up. Ten minutes before serving, +throw in the balls, from which the soup takes its name, and which are +made in the following manner: + +Take half a pound of _matso_ flour, two ounces of chopped suet, season +with a little pepper, salt, ginger, and nutmeg; mix with this, four +beaten eggs, and make it into a paste, a small onion shred and browned +in a desert spoonful of oil is sometimes added; the paste should be +made into rather large balls, and care should be taken to make them +very light. + + * * * * * + +TOMATA SOUP. + +Take a dozen unpealed tomatas, with a bit of clarified suet, or a +little sweet oil, and a small Spanish onion; sprinkle with flour, and +season with salt and cayenne pepper, and boil them in a little gravy +or water; it must be stirred to prevent burning, then pass it through +a sieve, and thin it with rich stock to the consistency of winter +pea-soup; flavour it with lemon juice, according to taste, after it +has been warmed up and ready for serving. + + * * * * * + +ALMONDEGOS SOUP: A SUPERIOR WHITE SOUP. + +Put a knuckle of veal and a calf's foot into two quarts of water, with +a blade of mace and a bunch of sweet herbs, a turnip, a little white +pepper, and salt; when sufficiently done, strain and skim it, and +add balls of forced meat, and egg balls. A quarter of an hour before +serving beat up the yolks of four eggs with a desert spoonful of lemon +juice, and three ounces of sweet almonds blanched and beaten with a +spoonful of powdered white sugar. This mixture is to be stirred into +the soup till it thickens, taking care to prevent its curdling. + + * * * * * + +A FINE VEGETABLE OR FRENCH SOUP. + +Take two quarts of strong stock made of gravy beef, add to this, +carrots, turnips, leek, celery, brocoli, peas and French beans, all +cut as small as possible, add a few lumps of white sugar, pepper, and +salt, let it simmer till the vegetables are perfectly soft, and throw +in a few force-meat balls. + + * * * * * + +ASPARAGUS SOUP. + +Take eight pounds of gravy beef, with five pints of water, a few sweet +herbs, and an onion shred, with a little pepper and salt; when the +strength of the meat is sufficiently extracted, strain off the soup, +and add to it a bundle of asparagus, cut small, with a little chopped +parsley and mint; the asparagus should be thoroughly done. A few +minutes before serving, throw in some fried bread cut up the size +of dice; pound a little spinach to a pulp, and squeeze it through a +cloth, stir about a tea-cup full of this essence into the soup, let it +boil up after to prevent a raw taste. + + * * * * * + +SOUP MAIGRE. + +Chop three lettuces, a large handful of spinach, a little chervil, a +head of celery, two or three carrots, and four onions, put them on +the fire with half a pound of butter, and let them fry till slightly +browned, season with a little salt, sifted white sugar, and white +pepper, stew all gently in five pints of boiling water for about two +hours and a half, and just before serving the soup, thicken it with +the beaten yolks of four eggs, mixed first with a little of the soup, +and then stirred into the remainder. + + * * * * * + +SUMMER PEA SOUP. + +Take a peck of peas, separate the old from the young, boil the former +till they are quite tender in good stock, then pass them through a +sieve, and return them to the stock, add the young peas, a little +chopped lettuce, small pieces of cucumber fried to a light brown, a +little bit of mint, pepper, and salt; two or three lumps of sugar give +a fine flavor. + + * * * * * + +WINTER PEA SOUP. + +Soak a quart of white peas in water, boil them till soft, in as much +water as will cover them, pass them through a sieve, and add them to +any broth that may be ready, a little piece of _chorissa_ or smoked +beef will improve the flavour; this soup should be served with mint +and fried bread. + + * * * * * + +GIBLET SOUP. + +Add to a fine strong well-seasoned beef stock, of about three quarts, +two sets of giblets, which should be previously stewed separately in +one quart of water (the gizzards require scalding for some time before +they are put in with the rest); white pepper, salt, and the rind of +lemon should season them; when they are tender, add them with their +gravy to the stock, and boil for about ten minutes together, then stir +in a glass of white wine, a table spoonful of mushroom ketchup, and +the juice of half a lemon; it will require to be thickened with a +little flour browned; the giblets are served in the soup. + + * * * * * + +BARLEY SOUP. + +Put in a stew-pan, a knuckle of mutton, or four pounds of the neck, +with three quarts of water, boil it gently and keep it well skimmed; +a sprig of parsley, a couple of sliced turnips, a carrot, an onion or +more, if approved, with a little white pepper and salt, are sufficient +seasoning, a breakfast cup full of barley should be scalded and put in +the stew-pan with the meat, if when done, the soup is thin and watery, +a little prepared barley, mixed smoothly, should be stirred in. + + * * * * * + +SOUP DE POISSON, OR FISH SOUP. + +Make a good stock, by simmering a cod's-head in water, enough to cover +the fish; season it with pepper and salt, mace, celery, parsley, and +a few sweet herbs, with two or three onions, when sufficiently done, +strain it, and add cutlets of fish prepared in the following manner: +cut very small, well-trimmed cutlets from any fish, sole or brill are +perhaps best suited; stew them in equal quantities of water and wine, +but not more than will cover them, with a large lump of butter, and +the juice of a lemon; when they have stewed gently for about fifteen +or twenty minutes, add them to the soup, which thicken with cream and +flour, serve the soup with the cutlets in a tureen; force-meat balls +of cod's liver are sometimes added. + + * * * * * + +OX TAIL SOUP. + +Have two well cleaned tails and a neat's foot, cut them in small +joints and soak them in water, put them in a stew-pan with a large +piece of clarified suet or fat, and let them simmer for ten minutes, +then put to them between three and four quarts of cold water, four +onions, a bunch of sweet herbs, a carrot, a turnip, a head of celery, +and season with whole pepper, allspice, two or three cloves, and salt; +let it stew till the meat is tender enough to leave the bones, then +remove it from them, as the bones are unsightly in the soup; thicken +if necessary with browned flour, and just before serving, add a glass +or more of port wine, and a little mushroom ketchup. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + + +Sauces. + +A RICH BROWN GRAVY. + +Take a little good beef consomme, or stock, a small piece of smoked +beef, or _chorissa_, a lemon sliced, some chopped shalots, a couple +of onions shred, a bay leaf, two or three cloves, and a little oil; +simmer gently, and add a little minced parsley, and a few chopped +mushrooms: skim and strain. + + * * * * * + +SAUCE PIQUANTE. + +The above may be rendered a Sauce Piquante by substituting a little +vinegar, whole capers, allspice, and thyme, instead of the smoked +beef and lemon; a few onions and piccalilli chopped finely, is a great +addition when required to be very piquante. + +A sauce like the above is very good to serve with beef that has been +boiled for broth. + + * * * * * + +A GOOD GRAVY FOR ROAST FOWLS. + +Take a little stock, squeeze in the juice of a lemon, add a little +mushroom powder, cayenne pepper and salt; thicken with flour. + + * * * * * + +ANOTHER EXCELLENT RECEIPT. + +Chop some mushrooms, young and fresh, salt them, and put them into a +saucepan with a little gravy, made of the trimmings of the fowl, or +of veal, a blade of mace, a little grated lemon peel, the juice of +one lemon; thicken with flour, and when ready to serve, stir in a +table-spoonful of white wine. + + * * * * * + +EGG SAUCE: A FINE WHITE SAUCE FOR BOILED CHICKENS, TURKEYS, OR WHITE +FRICASSEES. + +Beat up the yolks of four eggs with the juice of a fine lemon, a +tea-spoonful of flour, and a little cold water, mix well together, and +set it on the fire to thicken, stirring it to prevent curdling. This +sauce will be found excellent, if not superior, in many cases where +English cooks use melted butter. If capers are substituted for the +lemon juice, this sauce will be found excellent for boiled lamb or +mutton. + + * * * * * + +CELERY SAUCE. + +Cut in small pieces from about four to five heads of celery, which if +not very young must be peeled, simmer it till tender in half a pint of +veal gravy, if intended for white sauce, then add a spoonful of flour, +the yolks of three eggs, white pepper, salt, and the juice of one +lemon, these should be previously mixed together with a little water +till perfectly smooth and thin, and be stirred in with the sauce; +cream, instead of eggs, is used in English kitchens. + + * * * * * + +TOMATO SAUCE. + +Skin a dozen fine tomatos, set them on the fire in a little water +or gravy, beat them up with a little vinegar, lemon juice, cayenne +pepper, and salt; some persons like the yolk of an egg, well beaten +added. Strain or not, as may be preferred. + + * * * * * + +GRAVY FOR A FOWL, WHEN THERE IS NO STOCK TO MAKE IT WITH. + +Take the feet, wash them, cut them small, also the neck and gizzard; +season them with pepper and salt, onion, and parsley, let them simmer +gently for some time, in about a breakfast-cup of water, then strain, +thicken with flour, and add a little browning, and if liked, a small +quantity of any store sauce at hand, and it will prove an excellent +sauce. + + * * * * * + +SAVOURY JELLY, FOR COLD PIES, OR TO GARNISH COLD POULTRY. + +Have a bare knuckle of veal, and a calf's foot or cow heel; put it +into a stew-pan with a thick slice of smoked beef, a few herbs, a +blade of mace, two or three onions, a little lemon peel, pepper +and salt, and three or four pints of water (the French add a little +tarragon vinegar). When it boils skim it, and when cold, if not clear, +boil it a few minutes with the white and shell of an egg, and pass it +through a jelly bag, this jelly with the juice of two or three lemons, +and poured into a mould, in which are put the yolks of eggs boiled +hard, forms a pretty supper dish. + + * * * * * + +A FINE SAUCE FOR STEAKS. + +Throw into a saucepan a piece of fat the size of an egg, with two +or three onions sliced, let them brown; add a little gravy, flour, a +little vinegar, a spoonful of mustard, and a little cayenne pepper, +boil it and serve with the steaks. + + * * * * * + +A FISH SAUCE WITHOUT BUTTER. + +Put on, in a small saucepan, a cup of water, well flavored with +vinegar, an onion chopped fine, a little rasped horse-radish, pepper, +and two or three cloves, and a couple of anchovies cut small, when it +has boiled, stir carefully in the beaten yolks of two eggs, and let it +thicken, until of the consistency of melted butter. + + * * * * * + +A FINE FISH SAUCE. + +One teacup full of walnut pickle, the same of mushroom ditto, three +anchovies pounded, one clove of garlic pounded, half a tea-spoonful of +cayenne pepper, all mixed well together, and bottled for use. + + * * * * * + +A NICE SAUCE TO THROW OVER BROILED MEATS. + +Beat up a little salad-oil with a table-spoonful of vinegar, mustard, +pepper and salt, and then stir in the yolk of an egg; this sauce +should be highly seasoned. A sauce of this description is sometimes +used to baste mutton while roasting, the meat should be scored in +different places to allow the sauce to penetrate. + + * * * * * + +SAUCE FOR DUCKS. + +A little good gravy, with a glass of port wine, the juice of a lemon, +highly seasoned with cayenne pepper. + + * * * * * + +BREAD SAUCE. + +Take a large onion and boil it, with a little pepper till quite soft, +in milk, then take it out, and pour the milk over grated stale bread, +then boil it up with a piece of butter, and dredge it with flour; it +should be well beaten up with a silver fork. + +The above can be made without butter or milk: take a large onion, +slice it thin, put it into a little veal gravy, add grated bread, +pepper, &c., and the yolk and white of an egg well beaten. + + * * * * * + +APPLE SAUCE FOR GOOSE. + +Slice some apples, put them in a little water to simmer till soft, +beat them to a pulp; some consider a little powdered sugar an +improvement, but as the acid of the apples is reckoned a corrective to +the richness of the goose, it is usually preferred without. + + * * * * * + +MINT SAUCE. + +Mix vinegar with brown sugar, let it stand about an hour, then add +chopped mint, and stir together. + + * * * * * + +ONION SAUCE. + +Slice finely, and brown in a little oil, two or three onions; put them +in a little beef gravy, and add cayenne pepper, salt, and the juice of +a lemon. This is a nice sauce for steaks. + + * * * * * + +OILED BUTTER. + +Put some good butter into a cup or jar, and place it before the fire +till it becomes an oil, then pour it off, so that all sediment may be +avoided. + + * * * * * + +TO DRAW GOOD GRAVY. + + * * * * * + +Cut some gravy beef into small pieces, put them in a jar, and set it +in a saucepan of cold water to boil gently for seven or eight hours, +adding, from time to time, more water as the original quantity boils +away. The gravy thus made will be the essence of the meat, and in +cases where nutriment is required in the smallest compass, will be +of great service. Soups are stronger when the meat is cut, and gravy +drawn before water is added. + + * * * * * + +TRUFFLE SAUCE. + +Peel and slice as many truffles as required, simmer them gently with +a little butter, when they are tender, add to them good white or brown +consomme, lemon juice, pepper, salt, nutmeg, and a very little white +wine. + + * * * * * + +MUSHROOM SAUCE. + +Take about a pint of fine young button mushrooms, let them stew gently +in a white veal gravy seasoned with salt, pepper, a blade of mace, and +if approved, the grated peel of half a lemon, it should be thickened +with flour and the yolk of an egg stirred in it, just before serving; +English cooks add cream to this sauce. + + * * * * * + +SWEET SAUCE. + +The usual way of making sauces for puddings, is by adding sugar +to melted butter, or thin egg sauce, flavoring it with white wine, +brandy, lemon peel, or any other flavor approved of. + + * * * * * + +MELTED BUTTER. + +Although this sauce is one of the most simple, it is very rarely that +it is well made. Mix with four ounces of butter, a desert spoonful +of flour, when well mixed, add three table spoonsful of water, put it +into a clean saucepan kept for the purpose, and stir it carefully +one way till it boils; white sauce to throw over vegetables served on +toast, is made in the same way, only putting milk and water, instead +of water only. + + * * * * * + +SAUCE WITHOUT BUTTER FOR BOILED PUDDINGS. + +Mix a table-spoonful of flour, with two of water, add a little wine, +lemon peel grated, a small bit of clarified suet, of the size of a +walnut, grated nutmeg, and sugar, put on in a saucepan, stirring one +way, and adding water if too thick, lemon juice, or essence of noyeau, +or almonds may be substituted to vary the flavour. + + * * * * * + +SAUCE ROBERT FOR STEAKS. + +Chop up some onions, throw them into a saucepan with a bit of +clarified fat, let them fry till brown, then add pepper, salt, a +little gravy, mustard, lemon juice, and vinegar; boil it all, and pour +over the steaks. + + * * * * * + +CAPER SAUCE. + +This is merely melted butter with a few pickled capers simmered in it, +or they may be put into a sauce made of broth thickened with egg, and +a little flour. + + * * * * * + +SAVORY HERB POWDER. + +It is useful to select a variety of herbs, so that they may always +be at hand for use: the following are considered to be an excellent +selection, parsley, savory, thyme, sweet majoram, shalot, chervil, and +sage, in equal quantities; dry these in the oven, pound them finely +and keep them in bottles well stopped. + + * * * * * + +SEASONING FOR DUCKS AND GEESE. + +Mix chopped onion with an equal quantity of chopped sage, three times +as much grated stale bread, a little shred suet, pepper, salt, and a +beaten egg to bind it, this is generally used for geese and ducks, the +onions are sometimes boiled first to render them less strong. + + * * * * * + +ENGLISH EGG SAUCE. + +Boil two eggs hard, chop them finely, and warm them up in finely made +melted butter, add a little white pepper, salt, a blade of mace, and a +very small quantity of nutmeg. + + * * * * * + +SAUCE A LA TARTARE. + +Mix the yolk of an egg with oil, vinegar, chopped parsley, mustard, +pepper, and salt; a spoonful of pate de diable or French mustard, +renders the sauce more piquante. + + * * * * * + +A FINE SAUCE FOR ROAST MUTTON. + +Mix a little port wine in some gravy, two table-spoonfuls of vinegar, +one of oil, a shalot minced, and a spoonful of mustard, just before +the mutton is served, pour the sauce over it, then sprinkle it with +fried bread crumbs, and then again baste the meat with the sauce; this +is a fine addition to the mutton. + + * * * * * + +ASPARAGUS SAUCE, TO SERVE WITH LAMB CHOPS. + +Cut some asparagus, or sprew, into half inch lengths, wash them, and +throw them into half a pint of gravy made from beef, veal, or mutton +thickened, and seasoned with salt, white pepper, and a lump of white +sugar, the chops should be delicately fried and the sauce served in +the centre of the dish. + + * * * * * + +BROWN CUCUMBER SAUCE. + +Peel and cut in thick slices, one or more fresh cucumbers, fry them +until brown in a little butter, or clarified fat, then add to them +a little strong beef gravy, pepper, salt, and a spoonful of vinegar; +some cooks add a chopped onion browned with the cucumbers. + + * * * * * + +WHITE CUCUMBER SAUCE. + +Take out the seeds of some fresh young cucumbers, quarter them, and +cut them into pieces of two inch lengths, let them lay for an hour in +vinegar and water, then simmer them till thoroughly soft, in a veal +broth seasoned with pepper, salt, and a little lemon juice; when ready +for serving, pour off the gravy and thicken it with the yolks of a +couple of eggs stirred in, add it to the saucepan; warm up, taking +care that it does not curdle. + + * * * * * + +BROWNED FLOUR FOR MAKING SOUPS AND GRAVIES DARK AND THICK. + +Spread flour on a tin, and place it in a Dutch oven before the fire, +or in a gentle oven till it browns; it must often be turned, that the +flour may be equally coloured throughout. A small quantity of this +prepared and laid by for use, will be found useful. + + * * * * * + +BROWNED BREAD CRUMBS. + +Grate into fine crumbs, about five or six ounces of stale bread, +and brown them in a gentle oven or before the fire; this is a more +delicate way of browning them than by frying. + + * * * * * + +CRISPED PARSLEY. + +Wash and drain a handful of fresh young sprigs of parsley, dry +them with a cloth, place them before the fire on a dish, turn them +frequently, and they will be perfectly crisp in ten minutes. + + * * * * * + +FRIED PARSLEY. + +When the parsley is prepared as above, fry it in butter or clarified +suet, then drain it on a cloth placed before the fire. + + * * * * * + +BREAD CRUMBS FOR FRYING. + +Cut slices of bread without crust, and dry them gradually in a cool +oven till quite dry and crisp, then roll them into fine crumbs, and +put them in a jar for use. + + * * * * * + +SPINACH GREEN. + +Pound to a pulp in a mortar a handful of spinach, and squeeze it +through a hair sieve; then put it into a cup or jar, and place it in +a basin of hot water for a few minutes, or it may be allowed to simmer +on the fire; a little of this stirred into spring soups, improve their +appearance. + + * * * * * + +VELOUTE, BECHAMEL. + +These preparations are so frequently mentioned in modern cookery, that +we shall give the receipts for them, although they are not appropriate +for the Jewish kitchen. Veloute is a fine white sauce, made by +reducing a certain quantity of well-flavoured consomme or stock, +over a charcoal fire, and mixing it with boiling cream, stirring it +carefully till it thickens. + +Bechamel is another sort of fine white stock, thickened with cream, +there is more flavouring in this than the former, the stock is made of +veal, with some of the smoked meats used in English kitchens, butter, +mace, onion, mushrooms, bay leaf, nutmeg, and a little salt. An +excellent substitute for these sauces can in Jewish kitchens be made +in the following way: + +Take some veal broth flavored with smoked beef, and the above named +seasonings, then beat up two or three yolks of eggs, with a little of +the stock and a spoonful of potatoe flour, stir this into the +broth, until it thickens, it will not be quite as white, but will be +excellent. + + * * * * * + +FORCEMEAT OR FARCIE. + +Under this head is included the various preparations used for balls, +tisoles, fritters, and stuffings for poultry and veal, it is a branch +of cooking which requires great care and judgment, the proportions +should be so blended as to produce a delicate, yet savoury flavor, +without allowing any particular herb or spice to predominate. + +The ingredients should always be pounded well together in a mortar, +not merely chopped and moistened with egg, as is usually done by +inexperienced cooks; forcemeat can be served in a variety of forms, +and is so useful a resource, that it well repays the attention it +requires. + + * * * * * + +A SUPERIOR FORCEMEAT FOR RISOLLES, FRITTERS, AND SAVORY MEAT BALLS. + +Scrape half a pound of the fat of smoked beef, and a pound of lean +veal, free from skin, vein, or sinew, pound it finely in a mortar +with chopped mushrooms, a little minced parsley, salt and pepper, +and grated lemon peel, then have ready the crumb of two French rolls +soaked in good gravy, press out the moisture, and add the crumb to the +meat with three beaten eggs; if the forcemeat is required to be very +highly flavored, the gravy in which the rolls are soaked should be +seasoned with mushroom powder; a spoonful of ketchup, a bay leaf, an +onion, pepper, salt, and lemon juice, add this panada to the pounded +meat and eggs, form the mixture into any form required, and either fry +or warm in gravy, according to the dish for which it is intended. + +Any cold meats pounded, seasoned, and made according to the above +method are excellent; the seasoning can be varied, or rendered simpler +if required. + + * * * * * + +COMMON VEAL, STUFFING. + +Have equal quantities of finely shred suet and grated crumbs of bread, +add chopped sweet herbs, grated lemon peel, pepper, and salt, pound it +in a mortar; this is also used for white poultry, with the addition +of a little grated smoked beef, or a piece of the root of a tongue +pounded and mixed with the above ingredients. + + * * * * * + +FISH FORCEMEAT. + +Chop finely any kind of fish, that which has been already dressed +will answer the purpose, then pound it in a mortar with a couple of +anchovies, or a little anchovy essence, the yolk of a hard boiled +egg, a little butter, parsley or any other herb which may be approved, +grated lemon peel, and a little of the juice, then add a little bread +previously soaked, and mix the whole into a paste, and form into +balls, or use for stuffing, &c. + +The liver or roe of fish is well suited to add to the fish, as it is +rich and delicate. + + * * * * * + +FORCEMEAT FOR DRESSING FISH FILLETS. + +Pound finely anchovies, grated bread, chopped parsley, and the yolk of +a hard boiled egg, add grated lemon peel, a little lemon juice, pepper +and salt, and make into a paste with two eggs. + + * * * * * + +FORCEMEAT FOR DRESSING CUTLETS, ETC. + +Add to grated stale bread, an equal quantity of chopped parsley, +season it well, and mix it with clarified suet, then brush the cutlets +with beaten yolks of eggs, lay on the mixture thickly with a knife, +and sprinkle over with dry and fine bread crumbs. + + * * * * * + +EGG BALLS. + +Beat the hard yolks of eggs in a mortar, make it into a paste with +the yolk of a raw egg, form the paste into very small balls, and throw +them into boiling water for a minute or so, to harden them. + + * * * * * + +PREPARATION FOR CUTLETS OF FOWL OR VEAL. + +Make a smooth batter of flour, and a little salad oil, and two eggs, +a little white pepper, salt, and nutmeg, turn the cutlets well in +this mixture, and fry a light brown, garnish with slices of lemon, +and crisped parsley, this is done by putting in the parsley after the +cutlets have been fried, it will speedily crisp; it should then be +drained, to prevent its being greasy. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + + +Fish. + +PRELIMINARY REMARKS. + +When fish is to be boiled, it should be rubbed lightly over with salt, +and set on the fire in a saucepan or fish-kettle sufficiently large, +in hard cold water, with a little salt, a spoonful or two of vinegar +is sometimes added, which has the effect of increasing its firmness. + +Fish for broiling should be rubbed over with vinegar, well dried in +a cloth and floured. The fire must be clear and free from smoke, the +gridiron made quite hot, and the bars buttered before the fish is put +on it. Fish to be fried should be rubbed in with salt, dried, rolled +in a cloth, and placed for a few minutes before the fire previous to +being put in the pan. + + * * * * * + +FISH FRIED IN OIL. + +Soles, plaice, or salmon, are the best kinds of fish to dress in +this manner, although various other sorts are frequently used. When +prepared by salting or drying, as above directed, have a dish ready +with beaten eggs, turn the fish well over in them, and sprinkle it +freely with flour, so that the fish may be covered entirely with it, +then place it in a pan with a good quantity of the best frying oil at +boiling heat; fry the fish in it gently, till of a fine equal brown +colour, when done, it should be placed on a cloth before the fire +for the oil to drain off; great care should be observed that the oil +should have ceased to bubble when the fish is put in, otherwise it +will be greasy; the oil will serve for two or three times if strained +off and poured into a jar. Fish prepared in this way is usually served +cold. + + * * * * * + +FRIED SOLES IN THE ENGLISH WAY. + +Prepare the soles as directed in the last receipt, brush them over +with egg, dredge them with stale bread crumbs, and fry in boiling +butter; this method is preferable when required to be served hot. + + * * * * * + +ESCOBECHE. + +Take some cold fried fish, place it in a deep pan, then boil half a +pint of vinegar with two table spoonsful of water, and one of oil, +a little grated ginger, allspice, cayenne pepper, two bay leaves, a +little salt, and a table spoonful of lemon juice, with sliced onions; +when boiling, pour it over the fish, cover the pan, and let it stand +twenty-four hours before serving. + + * * * * * + +FISH STEWED WHITE. + +Put an onion, finely chopped, into a stew-pan, with a little oil, till +the onion becomes brown, then add half a pint of water, and place +the fish in the stew-pan, seasoning with pepper, salt, mace, ground +allspice, nutmeg, and ginger; let it stew gently till the fish is +done, then prepare the beaten yolks of four eggs, with the juice of +two lemons, and a tea spoonful of flour, a table spoonful of cold +water, and a little saffron, mix well in a cup, and pour it into +the stew-pan, stirring it carefully one way until it thickens. Balls +should be thrown in about twenty minutes before serving; they are made +in the following way: take a little of the fish, the liver, and roe, +if there is any, beat it up finely with chopped parsley, and spread +warmed butter, crumbs of bread, and seasoning according to taste; +form this into a paste with eggs, and make it into balls of a moderate +size; this is a very nice dish when cold; garnish with sliced lemon +and parsley. + + * * * * * + +AN EXCELLENT RECEIPT FOR STEWED FISH IN THE DUTCH FASHION. + +Take three or four parsley roots, cut them into pieces, slice several +onions and boil in a pint of water till tender, season with lemon +juice, vinegar, saffron, pepper, salt, and mace, then add the fish, +and let it stew till nearly finished, when remove it, and thicken the +gravy with a little flour and butter, and the yolk of one egg, then +return the fish to the stew-pan, with balls made as directed in the +preceding receipt, and boil up. + + * * * * * + +FISH STEWED BROWN. + +Fry some fish of a light brown, either soles, slices of salmon, +halibut, or plaice, let an onion brown in a little oil, add to it a +cup of water, a little mushroom ketchup or powder, cayenne pepper, +salt, nutmeg, and lemon juice, put the fish into a stew-pan with the +above mixture, and simmer gently till done, then take out the fish and +thicken the gravy with a little browned flour, and stir in a glass of +port wine; a few truffles, or mushrooms, are an improvement. + + * * * * * + +WATER SOUCHY. + +Take a portion of the fish intended to be dressed, and stew it down +with three pints of water, parsley roots, and chopped parsley, and +then pulp them through a sieve, then add the rest of the fish, with +pepper, salt, and seasoning; and serve in a deep dish. + + * * * * * + +A SUPERIOR RECEIPT FOR STEWED CARP. + +Clean the fish thoroughly, put it into a saucepan, with a strong rich +gravy, season with onion, parsley roots, allspice, nutmegs, beaten +cloves, and ginger, let it stew very gently till nearly done, then +mix port wine and vinegar in equal quantities, coarse brown sugar and +lemon juice, a little flour, with some of the gravy from the saucepan, +mix well and pour over the fish, let it boil till the gravy thickens. +Pike is excellent stewed in this manner. + + * * * * * + +FILLETS OF FISH. + +Fillets of salmon, soles, &c., fried of a delicate brown according to +the receipt already given, and served with a fine gravy is a very nice +dish. + +If required to be very savory, make a fish force-meat, and lay it +thickly on the fish before frying; fillets dressed in this way are +usually arranged round the dish, and served with a sauce made of good +stock, thickened and seasoned with cayenne pepper, lemon juice, and +mushroom essence; piccalilli are sometimes added cut small. + + * * * * * + +BAKED HADDOCK. + +Carefully clean a fresh haddock, and fill it with a fine forcemeat, +and sew it in securely; give the fish a dredging of flour, and pour on +warmed butter, sprinkle it with pepper and salt, and set it to bake +in a Dutch-oven before the fire, basting it, from time to time, with +butter warmed, and capers; it should be of a rich dark brown, and it +is as well to dredge two or three times with flour while at the fire, +the continual bastings will produce sufficient sauce to serve with it +without any other being added. + +Mackarel and whiting prepared in this manner are excellent, the latter +should be covered with a layer of bread crumbs, and arranged in a +ring, and the forcemeat, instead of stuffing them, should be formed +into small balls, and served in the dish as a garnish. + +The forcemeat must be made as for veal stuffing, with the addition of +a couple of minced anchovies, cayenne pepper, and butter instead of +suet. + + * * * * * + +A NICE WAY OF DRESSING RED HERRINGS. + +Open them, cut off the tails and heads, soak them in hot water for an +hour, then wipe them dry; mix with warmed butter one beaten egg, pour +this over the herrings, sprinkle with bread crumbs, flour, and white +pepper, broil them and serve them very hot. + + * * * * * + +BAKED MACKAREL WITH VINEGAR. + +Cut off the heads and tails, open and clean them, lay them in a +deep pan with a few bay leaves, whole pepper, half a tea-spoonful of +cloves, and a whole spoonful of allspice, pour over equal quantities +of vinegar and water, and bake for an hour and a half, in a gentle +oven; herrings and sprats are also dressed according to this receipt. + + * * * * * + +FISH SALAD. + +Cut in small pieces any cold dressed fish, turbot or salmon are the +best suited; mix it with half a pint of small salad, and a lettuce +cut small, two onions boiled till tender and mild, and a few truffles +thinly sliced; pour over a fine salad mixture, and arrange it into a +shape, high in the centre, and garnish with hard eggs cut in slices; +a little cucumber mixed with the salad is an improvement. The mixture +may either be a common salad mixture, or made as follows: take the +yolks of three hard boiled eggs, with a spoonful of mustard, and a +little salt, mix these with a cup of cream, and four table-spoonsful +of vinegar, the different ingredients should be added carefully and +worked together smoothly, the whites of the eggs may be trimmed and +placed in small heaps round the dish as a garnish. + + * * * * * + +IMPANADA. + +Cut in small pieces halibut, plaice, or soles, place them in a deep +dish in alternate layers, with slices of potatoes and dumplings made +of short-crust paste, sweetened with brown sugar, season well with +small pickles, peppers, gerkins, or West India pickles; throw over a +little water and butter warmed, and bake it thoroughly. + + * * * * * + +WHITE BAIT. + +This is such a delicate fish that there are few cooks who attempt to +dress it without spoiling it; they should not be touched but thrown +from the dish into a cloth with a handful of flour; shake them +lightly, but enough to cover them well with the flour, then turn them +into a sieve expressly for bait to free them from too great a quantity +of the flour, then throw the fish into a pan with plenty of boiling +butter, they must remain but an instant, for they are considered +spoilt if they become the least brown; they should be placed lightly +on the dish piled up high in the centre, brown bread and butter is +always served with them; when devilled they are also excellent, and +are permitted to become brown; they are then sprinkled with cayenne +pepper, and a little salt, and served with lemon juice. + +This receipt was given by a cook who dressed white bait to perfection. + + * * * * * + +A DUTCH FRICANDELLE. + +Take two pounds of dressed fish, remove the skin and bones, cut in +small pieces with two or three anchovies, and season well, soak the +crumb of a French roll in milk, beat it up with the fish and three +eggs: butter a mould, sprinkle it with raspings, place in the fish +and bake it; when done, turn out and serve either dry or with +anchovy sauce; if served dry, finely grated crumbs of bread should be +sprinkled thickly over it, and it should be placed for a few minutes +before the fire to brown. + + * * * * * + +FISH FRITTERS. + +Make a force-meat of any cold fish, form it into thin cakes, and fry +of a light brown, or enclose them first in thin paste and then fry +them. The roes of fish or the livers are particularly nice prepared in +this way. + + * * * * * + +FISH OMELET. + +Shred finely any cold fish, season it, and mix with beaten eggs; make +it into a paste, fry in thin cakes like pancakes, and serve hot on a +napkin; there should be plenty of boiling butter in the pan, as they +should be moist and rich; there should be more eggs in the preparation +for omelets than for fritters. + + * * * * * + +SCALLOPED FISH. + +Take any dressed fish, break it in small pieces, put it into tin +scallops, with a few crumbs of bread, a good piece of butter, a little +cream if approved, white pepper, salt, and nutmeg; bake in an oven for +ten minutes, or brown before the fire; two or three mushrooms mixed, +or an anchovy will be found an improvement. + + * * * * * + +ANOTHER WAY. + +Break the fish into pieces, pour over the beaten yolk of an egg, +sprinkle with pepper and salt, strew with bread crumbs, chopped +parsley, and grated lemon peel, and squeeze in the juice of lemon, +drop over a little warmed butter, and brown before the fire. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + + +Directions for Various Ways of Dressing Meat and Poultry. + +INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. + +Boiling is the most simple manner of cooking, the great art in +this process is to boil the article sufficiently, without its being +overdone, the necessity of slow boiling cannot be too strongly +impressed upon the cook, as the contrary, renders it hard and of a bad +color; the average time of boiling for fresh meat is half an hour to +every pound, salt meat requires half as long again, and smoked meat +still longer; the lid of the saucepan should only be removed for +skimming, which is an essential process. + +Roasting chiefly depends on the skilful management of the fire, it is +considered that a joint of eight pounds requires two hours roasting; +when first put down it should be basted with fresh dripping, and +afterwards with its own dripping, it should be sprinkled with salt, +and repeatedly dredged with flour, which browns and makes it look rich +and frothy. + +Broiling requires a steady clear fire, free from flame and smoke, the +gridiron should be quite hot before the article is placed on it, and +the bars should be rubbed with fat, or if the article is thin-skinned +and delicate, with chalk; the gridiron should be held aslant to +prevent the fat dripping into the fire; the bars of a gridiron should +be close and fine. Frying is easier than broiling, the fat, oil or +butter in which the article is fried must be boiling, but have ceased +to bubble before it is put in the pan, or it will be greasy and black: +there is now a new description of fryingpan, called a saute pan, and +which will be found extremely convenient for frying small cutlets or +collops. + +Stewing is a more elaborate mode of boiling; a gentle heat with +frequent skimmings, are the points to be observed. + +Glazing is done by brushing melted jelly over the article to be glazed +and letting it cool, and then adding another coat, or in some cases +two or three, this makes any cold meats or poultry have an elegant +appearance. + +Blanching makes the article plump and white. It should be set on the +fire in cold water, boil up and then be immersed in cold water, +where it should remain some little time. Larding (the French term is +_Pique_, which the inexperienced Jewish cook may not be acquainted +with, we therefore use the term in common use) is a term given to +a certain mode of garnishing the surface of meat or poultry: it +is inserting small pieces of the fat of smoked meats, truffles, or +tongue, which are trimmed into slips of equal length and size, into +the flesh of the article at regular distances, and is effected by +means of larding pins. + +Poelee and Blanc, are terms used in modern cookery for a very +expensive mode of stewing: it is done by stewing the article with +meat, vegetables, and fat of smoked meats, all well seasoned; instead +of placing it to stew in water it is placed on slices of meat covered +with slices of fat and the vegetables and seasoning added, then water +enough to cover the whole is added. + +Blanc differs from Poelee, in having a quantity of suet added, and +being boiled down before the article is placed to stew in it. + +Braising is a similar process to Poelee, but less meat and vegetable +is used. + + * * * * * + +TO CLARIFY SUET. + +Melt down with care fine fresh suet, either beef or veal, put it into +a jar, and set it in a stew-pan of water to boil, putting in a sprig +of rosemary, or a little orange flower water while melting, this is +a very useful preparation and will be found, if adopted in English +kitchens, to answer the purpose of lard and is far more delicate and +wholesome: it should be well beaten till quite light with a wooden +fork. + + * * * * * + +OLIO. + +Put eight pounds of beef in sufficient water to cover it, when the +water boils take out the meat, skim off the fat, and then return the +meat to the stew-pan, adding at the same time two fine white cabbages +without any of the stalk or hard parts; season with pepper, salt, and +a tea-spoonful of white sugar, let it simmer on a slow fire for +about five hours, about an hour before serving, add half a pound of +_chorisa_, which greatly improves the flavor. + + * * * * * + +AN EXCELLENT RECEIPT FOR STEWING A RUMP OF BEEF. + +Chop fine a large onion, four bay leaves, and a little parsley, add to +these half an ounce of ground ginger, a tea-spoonful of salt, a blade +of mace, a little ground allspice, some lemon sliced, and some of the +peel grated; rub all these ingredients well into the meat, then place +it into a stew-pan with three parts of a cup of vinegar, a calf's-foot +cut in small pieces and a pint of water, stew gently till tender, +when the fat must be carefully skimmed off the gravy, which must be +strained and poured over the meat. + + * * * * * + +ALAMODE BEEF, OR SOUR MEAT. + +Cover a piece of the ribs of beef boned and filletted, or a piece of +the round with vinegar diluted with water, season with onions, pepper, +salt, whole allspice, and three or four bay leaves, add a cup full +of raspings, and let the whole stew gently for three or four hours, +according to the weight of the meat; this dish is excellent when cold. +A rump steak stewed in the same way will be found exceedingly fine. + + * * * * * + +KIMMEL MEAT. + +Place a small piece of the rump of beef, or the under cut of a sirloin +in a deep pan with three pints of vinegar, two ounces of carraway +seeds tied in a muslin bag, salt, pepper, and spices, cover it down +tight, and bake thoroughly in a slow oven. This is a fine relish for +luncheons. + + * * * * * + +BEEF AND BEANS. + +Take a piece of brisket of beef, cover it with water, when boiling +skim off the fat, add one quarter of French beans cut small, two +onions cut in quarters, season with pepper and salt, and when nearly +done take a dessert-spoonful of flour, one of coarse brown sugar, and +a large tea-cup full of vinegar, mix them together and stir in with +the beans, and continue stewing for about half an hour longer. + + * * * * * + +KUGEL AND COMMEAN. + +Soak one pint of Spanish peas and one pint of Spanish beans all night +in three pints of water; take two marrow bones, a calf's-foot, and +three pounds of fine gravy-beef, crack the bones and tie them to +prevent the marrow escaping, and put all together into a pan; then +take one pound of flour, half a pound of shred suet, a little grated +nutmeg and ground ginger, cloves and allspice, one pound of coarse +brown sugar, and the crumb of a slice of bread, first soaked in water +and pressed dry, mix all these ingredients together into a paste, +grease a quart basin and put it in, covering the basin with a plate +set in the middle of the pan with the beans, meat, &c. Cover the pan +lightly down with coarse brown paper, and let it remain all the night +and the next day, (until required) in a baker's oven, when done, take +out the basin containing the pudding, and skim the fat from the gravy +which must be served as soup; the meat, &c., is extremely savory and +nutritious, but is not a very seemly dish for table. The pudding must +be turned out of the basin, and a sweet sauce flavored with lemon and +brandy is a fine addition. + + * * * * * + +SAUER KRAUT. + +Boil about seven or eight pounds of beef, either brisket or a fillet +off the shoulder, in enough water to cover it, when it has boiled for +one hour, add as much sauer kraut, which is a German preparation, +as may be approved, it should then stew gently for four hours and be +served in a deep dish. The Germans are not very particular in removing +the fat, but it is more delicate by so doing. + + * * * * * + +BEEF WITH CELERY, AND WHITE BEANS AND PEAS. + +Soak for twelve hours one pint of dried white peas, and half a pint of +the same kind of beans, they must be well soaked, and if very dry, may +require longer than twelve hours, put a nice piece of brisket of about +eight pounds weight in a stew-pan with the peas and beans, and three +heads of celery cut in small pieces, put water enough to cover, and +season with pepper and salt only, let it all stew slowly till the meat +is extremely tender and the peas and beans quite soft, then add four +large lumps of sugar and nearly a tea-cup of vinegar; this is a very +fine stew. + + * * * * * + +BEEF COLLOPS. + +Cut thin slices off from any tender part, divide them into pieces of +the size of a wine biscuit, flatten and flour them, and lightly fry +in clarified fat, lay them in a stew-pan with good stock, season to +taste, have pickled gherkins chopped small, and add to the gravy a few +minutes before serving. + + * * * * * + +TO WARM COLD ROAST BEEF WHEN NOT SUFFICIENTLY DONE. + +Cut it in slices, also slice some beetroot or cucumber and put them +in a saucepan with a little gravy which need not be strong, two +table-spoonsful of vinegar, one of oil, pepper, salt, a little chopped +lettuce and a few peas, simmer till the vegetables and meat are +sufficiently dressed. + + * * * * * + +TO HASH BEEF. + +The meat should be put on the fire in a little broth or gravy, with +a little fried onion, pepper, salt, and a spoonful of ketchup, or any +other sauce at hand, let it simmer for about ten minutes, then mix in +a cup a little flour with a little of the gravy, and pour it into the +stewpan to thicken the rest; sippets of toast should be served with +hashes, a little port wine, a pinch of saffron, or a piece _chorisa_ +may be considered great improvements. + + * * * * * + +STEAKS WITH CHESNUTS. + +Take a fine thick steak, half fry it, then flour and place it in a +stewpan with a little good beef gravy, season with cayenne pepper and +salt, when it has simmered for about ten minutes, add a quarter of a +hundred good chesnuts, peeled and the inner skin scraped off, let them +stew with the steak till well done, this is a very nice dish, a little +Espagnole sauce heightens the flavor. + + * * * * * + +A SIMPLE STEWED STEAK. + +Put a fine steak in a stewpan with a large piece of clarified suet +or fat, and a couple of onions sliced, let the steak fry for a few +minutes, turning it several times; then cover the steak with gravy, +or even water will answer the purpose, with a tea-cup full of button +onions, or a Spanish onion sliced, a little lemon peel, pepper, salt, +and a little allspice; simmer till the steak is done, when the steak +must be removed and the gravy be carefully skimmed, then add to it a +little browning and a spoonful of mushroom ketchup; the steak must +be kept on a hot stove or returned to the stewpan to warm up. If the +gravy is not thick enough, stir in a little flour. + + * * * * * + +BRISKET STEWED WITH ONIONS AND RAISINS. + +Stew about five pounds of brisket of beef in sufficient water to +cover, season with allspice, pepper, salt, and nutmeg, and when nearly +done, add four large onions cut in pieces and half a pound of raisins +stoned, let them remain simmering till well done; and just before +serving, stir in a tea-spoonful of brown sugar and a table spoonful of +flour. + + * * * * * + +BRISKET STEWED. + +Take about six or seven pounds of brisket of beef, place it in a +stewpan with only enough water to cover it, season with a little spice +tied in a bag; when the meat is tender and the spices sufficiently +extracted to make the gravy rich and strong, part of it must be +removed to another saucepan; have ready a variety of vegetables cut +into small shapes, such as turnips, carrots, mushrooms, cauliflowers, +or whatever may be in season; stew them gently till tender in the +gravy, the meat must then be glazed and the gravy poured in the dish, +and the vegetables arranged round. + + * * * * * + +BEEF RAGOUT. + +Take a small well cut piece of lean beef, lard it with the fat +of smoked beef, and stew it with good gravy, highly seasoned with +allspice, cloves, pepper and salt; when the meat is well done remove +it from the gravy, which skim carefully and free from every particle +of fat, and add to it a glass of port wine, the juice of a lemon, half +a tea-spoonful of cayenne pepper, and a little mushroom ketchup; the +beef should be glazed when required to have an elegant appearance. + +A few very small forcemeat balls must be poached in the gravy, which +must be poured over the meat, and the balls arranged round the dish; +this is a very savoury and pretty dish. + + * * * * * + +TO SALT BEEF. + +This may be done by mixing a pound of common salt, half an ounce of +saltpetre and one ounce of coarse brown sugar, and rubbing the meat +well with it, daily for a fortnight or less, according to the weather, +and the degree of salt that the meat is required to have. Or by +boiling eight ounces of salt, eight ounces of sugar, and half an ounce +of saltpetre in two quarts of water, and pouring it over the meat, and +letting it stand in it for eight or ten days. + + * * * * * + +SPICED BEEF. + +Take a fine thick piece of brisket of beef not fat, let it lay three +days in a pickle, as above, take it out and rub in a mixture of spices +consisting of equal quantities of ground all-spice, black pepper, +cloves, ginger and nutmegs, and a little brown sugar, repeat this +daily for a week, then cover it with pounded dried sweet herbs, roll +or tie it tightly, put it into a pan with very little water, and bake +slowly for eight hours, then take it out, untie it and put a heavy +weight upon it; this it a fine relish when eaten cold. + + * * * * * + +SMOKED BEEF. + +As there are seldom conveniences in private kitchens for smoking +meats, it will generally be the best and cheapest plan to have them +ready prepared for cooking. All kinds of meats smoked and salted, +are to be met with in great perfection at all the Hebrew butchers. + +_Chorisa_, that most refined and savoury of all sausages, is to be +also procured at the same places. It is not only excellent fried in +slices with poached eggs or stewed with rice, but imparts a delicious +flavor to stews, soups, and sauces, and is one of the most useful +resources of the Jewish kitchen. + + * * * * * + +A WHITE FRICANDEAU OF VEAL. + +Take four or five pounds of breast of veal, or fillet from the +shoulder; stuff it with a finely flavoured veal stuffing and put it +into a stewpan with water sufficient to cover it, a calf's-foot cut +in pieces is sometimes added, season with one onion, a blade of mace, +white pepper and salt, and a sprig of parsley, stew the whole gently +until the meat is quite tender, then skim and strain the gravy and +stir in the beaten yolks of four eggs, and the juice of two lemons +previously mixed smoothly with a portion of the gravy, button +mushrooms, or pieces of celery stewed with the veal are sometimes +added by way of varying the flavor, egg and forcemeat balls garnish +the dish. When required to look elegant it should be pique. + + * * * * * + +A BROWN FRICASSEE. + +Cut a breast of veal in pieces, fry them lightly and put them into a +stewpan with a good beef gravy, seasoned with white pepper, salt, a +couple of sliced onions (previously browned in a little oil), and a +piece of whole ginger, let it simmer very slowly for two hours taking +care to remove the scum or fat, have ready some rich forcemeat and +spread it about an inch thick over three cold hard boiled eggs, fry +these for a few moments and put them in the saucepan with the veal; +before serving, these balls should be cut in quarters, and the gravy +rendered more savory by the addition of lemon juice and half a glass +of white wine, or a table-spoonful of walnut liquor, if the gravy is +not sufficiently thick by long stewing, a little browned flour may be +stirred in. + + * * * * * + +CALF'S HEAD STEWED. + +Clean and soak the head till the cheek-bone can be easily removed, +then parboil it and cut it into pieces of moderate size, and place +them in about a quart of stock made from shin of beef, the gravy must +be seasoned highly with eschalots, a small head of celery, a small +bunch of sweet herbs, an onion, a carrot, a little mace, a dozen +cloves, a piece of lemon peel, and a sprig of parsley, salt and +pepper; it must be strained before the head is added, fine forcemeat +balls rolled in egg and fried are served in the dish, as well as small +fritters made with the brains; when ready for serving, a glass and +half of white wine and the juice of a lemon are added to the gravy. + + * * * * * + +CALVES-FEET WITH SPANISH SAUCE. + +Having cleaned, boiled and split two fine feet, dip them into egg +and bread crumbs mixed with chopped parsley and chalot, a few ground +cloves, a little nutmeg, pepper and salt, fry them a fine brown, +arrange them in the dish and pour the sauce over. Make the sauce in +the following manner: slice two fine Spanish onions, put them in a +saucepan, with some chopped truffles or mushrooms, a little suet, +cayenne and white pepper, salt, one or two small lumps of white sugar, +and let all simmer in some good strong stock till the gravy has nearly +boiled away, then stir in a wine glass of Madeira wine, and a little +lemon juice; it should then be returned to the saucepan, to be made +thoroughly hot before serving. + + * * * * * + +CALF'S FEET AU FRITUR. + +Simmer them for four hours in water till the meat can be taken easily +from the bone, then cut them in handsome pieces, season with pepper +and salt, dip them in egg, and sprinkle thickly with grated bread +crumbs, and fry of a fine even brown; they may be served dry or with +any sauce that may be approved. + +The liquor should continue to stew with the bones, and can be used for +jelly. + + * * * * * + +CALF'S FEET STEWED FOR INVALIDS. + +Clean and soak a fine foot, put it on in very little water, let it +simmer till tender, then cut it in pieces, without removing the bone, +and continue stewing for three hours, till they become perfectly soft; +if the liquor boils away, add a little more water, but there should +not be more liquor than can be served in the dish with the foot; the +only seasoning requisite is a little salt and white pepper, and a +sprig of parsley, or a pinch of saffron to improve the appearance; a +little delicately-made thin egg sauce, with a flavor of lemon juice, +may be served in a sauce-tureen if approved; sippets of toast or well +boiled rice to garnish the dish, may also be added, and will not be an +unacceptable addition. + + * * * * * + +TENDONS OF VEAL. + +This is a very fine and nutritious dish; cut from the bones of a +breast of veal the tendons which are round the front, trim and blanch +them, put them with slices of smoked beef into a stewpan with some +shavings of veal, a few herbs, a little sliced lemon, two or three +onions, and a little broth; they must simmer for seven or eight hours; +when done, thicken the gravy and add white wine and mushrooms and +egg-balls; a few peas with the tendons will be found excellent, a +piece of mint and a little white sugar will then be requisite. + + * * * * * + +FRICANDEAU OF VEAL. + +Take a piece from the shoulder, about three to four pounds, trim it +and form it into a well shaped even piece, the surface of which should +be quite smooth; _pique_ it thickly, put it into a stewpan with a +couple of onions, a carrot sliced, sweet herbs, two or three bay +leaves, a large piece of _chorissa_ or a slice of the root of a tongue +smoked, a little whole pepper and salt; cover it with a gravy made +from the trimmings of the veal, and stew till extremely tender, which +can be proved by probing it with a fine skewer, then reduce part of +the gravy to a glaze, glaze the meat with it and serve on a _puree_ of +vegetables. + + * * * * * + +COLLARED VEAL. + +Remove the bones, gristle, &c., from a nice piece of veal, the breast +is the best part for the purpose; season the meat well with chopped +herbs, mace, pepper, and salt, then lay between the veal slices of +smoked tongue variegated with beetroot, chopped parsley, and hard +yolks of eggs, roll it up tightly in a cloth, simmer for some hours +till tender; when done, it should have a weight laid on it to press +out the liquor. + + * * * * * + +CURRIED VEAL. + +Cut a breast of veal into pieces, fry lightly with a chopped onion, +then rub the veal over with currie powder, put it into a good gravy of +veal and beef, season simply with pepper, salt, and lemon juice. + +Fowls curried are prepared in the same way. + + * * * * * + +CUTLETS. + +Cut them into proper shape and beat them with a roller until the fibre +of the meat is entirely broken; if this is not done, they will be +hard; they must then be covered with egg and sprinkled with flour, or +a preparation for cutlets may be spread over them, and then fry them +of a fine brown, remove the cutlets to a hot dish, and add to the fat +in which the cutlets have been fried, a spoonful of flour, a small cup +of gravy, salt, pepper, and a little lemon juice or lemon pickle. + + * * * * * + +CUTLETS A LA FRANCAISE. + +French cooks cut them thinner than the English, and trim them into +rounds of the size of a tea-cup; they must be brushed over with egg, +and sprinkled with salt, white pepper, mushroom powder, and grated +lemon peel; put them into a _saute_ pan and fry of a very light brown; +pieces of bread, smoked meat or tongue cut of the same size as the +cutlets, and prepared in the same manner, are laid alternately in the +dish with them; they should be served without sauce and with a _puree_ +of mushrooms or spinach in the centre of the dish. + + * * * * * + +CUTLETS IN WHITE FRICASSEE. + +Cut them in proper shapes, put them in a veal gravy made with the +trimmings enough to cover them; season delicately, and let them simmer +till quite tender, but not long enough to lose their shape; fresh +button mushrooms and a piece of lemon peel are essential to this dish; +when the meat is done remove it, take all fat from the gravy, and +thicken it with the yolks of two beaten eggs; small balls of forcemeat +in which mushrooms must be minced should be poached in the gravy when +about to be served; the meat must be returned to the saucepan to be +made hot, and when placed in the dish, garnish with thin slices of +lemon. + + * * * * * + +CUTLETS IN BROWN FRICASSEE. + +They must be trimmed as above, fried slightly and stewed in beef +gravy, and seasoned according to the directions given for a brown +fricassee of veal; balls or fritters are always an improvement to the +appearance of this dish. + + * * * * * + +BLANQUETTE OF VEAL. + +Cut into thin pieces of the size of shillings and half crowns, cold +veal or poultry, lay it in a small saucepan with a handful of fresh +well cleaned button mushrooms, pour over a little veal gravy, only +enough to cover them, with a piece of clarified veal fat about the +size of the yolk of a hard boiled egg; flavor with a piece of lemon +peel, very little white pepper and salt, one small lump of white +sugar, and a little nutmeg, stew all together for fifteen minutes, +then pour over a sauce prepared in a separate saucepan, made with veal +gravy, a little lemon juice, but not much, and the beaten yolks of two +eggs, let it simmer for an instant and then serve it up in the centre +of a dish prepared with a wall of mashed potatoes, delicately browned; +a few truffles renders this dish more elegant. + + * * * * * + +MINCED VEAL. + +Cut in small square pieces about the size of dice, cold dressed veal, +put it into a saucepan with a little water or gravy, season simply +with salt, pepper, and grated or minced lemon peel, the mince should +be garnished with sippets of toast. + + * * * * * + +MIROTON OF VEAL. + +Mince finely some cold veal or poultry, add a little grated tongue, +or smoked beef, a few crumbs of bread, sweet herbs, pepper, salt, +parsley, and if approved, essence of lemon, mix all well with two or +three eggs, and a very small quantity of good gravy; grease a mould, +put in the above ingredients and bake for three-quarters of an hour; +turn out with care, and serve with mushroom sauce. + + * * * * * + +FRICONDELLES. + +Prepare cold veal or poultry as in the last receipt, add instead of +crumbs of bread, a French roll soaked in white gravy, mix with it +the same ingredients, and form it into two shapes to imitate small +chickens or sweetbreads; sprinkle with crumbs of bread, and place in a +frying-pan as deep as a shallow saucepan; when they have fried +enough to become set, pour enough weak gravy in the pan to cover the +fricondelles, and let them stew in it gently, place them both in +the same dish, and pour over any well thickened sauce that may be +selected. + + * * * * * + +ANOTHER SORT. + +Prepare four small pieces of veal to serve in one dish, according to +the directions given for fricandeau of veal; these form a very pretty +_entree_; the pieces of veal should be about the size of pigeons. + + * * * * * + +SMOKED VEAL. + +Take a fine fat thick breast of veal, bone it, lay it in pickle, +according to the receipt to salt meat, hang it for three or four weeks +in wood-smoke, and it will prove a very fine savoury relish, either +boiled and eaten cold, or fried as required. + + * * * * * + +SWEETBREADS ROASTED. + +First soak them in warm water, and then blanch them; in whatever +manner they are to be dressed, this is essential; they may be prepared +in a variety of ways, the simplest is to roast them; for this they +have only to be covered with egg and bread crumbs, seasoned with salt +and pepper, and finished in a Dutch oven or cradle spit, frequently +basting with clarified veal suet; they may be served either dry with a +_puree_ of vegetables, or with a brown gravy. + + * * * * * + +SWEETBREADS STEWED WHITE. + +After soaking and blanching, stew them in veal gravy, and season with +celery, pepper, salt, nutmeg, a little mace, and a piece of lemon +peel, they should be served with a fine white sauce, the gravy in +which they are stewed will form the basis for it, with the addition +of yolks of eggs and mushroom essence; French cooks would adopt the +_veloute_ or _bechamel_ sauce; Jerusalem artichokes cut the size of +button mushrooms, are a suitable accompaniment as a garnish. + + * * * * * + +SWEETBREADS STEWED BROWN. + +After soaking and blanching, fry them till brown, then simmer gently +in beef gravy seasoned highly with smoked meat, nutmeg, pepper, salt, +a small onion stuck with cloves, and a very little whole allspice; +the gravy must be slightly thickened, and morels and truffles are +generally added; small balls of delicate forcemeat are also +an improvement. The above receipts are adapted for sweetbreads +fricasseed, except that they must be cut in pieces for fricassees, and +pieces of meat or poultry are added to them; sweetbreads when dressed +whole look better _piques_. + + * * * * * + +A DELICATE RECEIPT FOR ROAST MUTTON. + +Put the joint in a saucepan, cover it with cold water, let it boil for +half an hour, have the spit and fire quite ready, and remove the meat +from the saucepan, and place it immediately down to roast, baste it +well, dredge it repeatedly with flour, and sprinkle with salt; +this mode of roasting mutton removes the strong flavor that is so +disagreeable to some tastes. + + * * * * * + +MUTTON STEWED WITH CELERY. + +Take the best end of a neck of mutton, or a fillet taken from the leg +or shoulder, place it in a stewpan with just enough water to cover +it, throw in a carrot and turnip, and season, but not too highly; when +nearly done remove the meat and strain off the gravy, then return both +to the stewpan with forcemeat balls and some fine celery cut in small +pieces; let all stew gently till perfectly done, then stir in the +yolks of two eggs, a little flour, and the juice of half a lemon, +which must be mixed with a little of the gravy before pouring in the +stewpan, and care must be taken to prevent curdling. + + * * * * * + +A SIMPLE WAY OF DRESSING MUTTON. + +Take the fillet off a small leg or shoulder of mutton, rub it well +over with egg and seasoning, and partly roast it, then place it in a +stewpan with a little strong gravy, and stew gently till thoroughly +done; this dish is simple, but exceedingly nice; a few balls or +fritters to garnish will improve it. + + * * * * * + +MAINTENON CUTLETS. + +This is merely broiling or frying cutlets in a greased paper, after +having spread on them a seasoning prepared as follows: make a paste +of bread crumbs, chopped parsley, nutmeg, pepper, salt, grated lemon +peel, and thyme, with a couple of beaten eggs; a piquante sauce should +be served in a tureen. + + * * * * * + +A HARRICOT. + +Cut off the best end of a neck of mutton into chops, flour and partly +fry them, then lay them in a stewpan with carrots, sliced turnips cut +in small round balls, some button onions, and cover with water; skim +frequently, season with pepper and salt to taste, color the gravy with +a little browning and a spoonful of mushroom powder. + + * * * * * + +IRISH STEW. + +Is the same as above, excepting that the meat is not previously fried, +and that potatoes are used instead of turnips and carrots. + + * * * * * + +MUTTON A L'HISPANIOLA. + +Take a small piece of mutton, either part of a shoulder or a fillet +of the leg, partly roast it, then put it in a stewpan with beef gravy +enough to cover it, previously seasoned with herbs, a carrot and +turnip; cut in quarters three large Spanish onions, and place in the +stewpan round the meat; a stuffing will improve it, and care must be +taken to free the gravy from every particle of fat. + + * * * * * + +MUTTON COLLOPS. + +Take from a fine knuckle a couple of slices, cut and trim them in +collops the size of a tea cup, flatten them and spread over each side +a forcemeat for cutlets, and fry them; potatoe or Jerusalem artichokes +cut in slices of the same size and thickness, or pieces of bread +cut with a fluted cutter, prepared as the collops and fried, must be +placed alternately in the dish with them; they may be served with a +pure simple gravy, or very hot and dry on a napkin, garnished with +fried parsley and slices of lemon. + +The knuckle may be used in the following manner: put it on with +sufficient water to cover it, season it and simmer till thoroughly +done, thicken the gravy with prepared barley, and flavor it with lemon +pickle, or capers; it should be slightly colored with saffron, and +celery sauce may be served as an accompaniment, or the mutton may be +served on a fine _puree_ of turnips. + + * * * * * + +MUTTON CUTLETS. + +Have a neck of mutton, cut the bones short, and remove the chine +bone completely; cut chops off so thin that every other one shall be +without bone, trim them carefully, that all the chops shall bear the +same appearance, then flatten them well; cover them with a cutlet +preparation, and fry of a delicate brown; a fine _puree_ of any +vegetable that may be approved, or any sauce that may be selected, +should be served with them; they may be arranged in various ways in +the dish, either round the dish or in a circle in the centre, so that +the small part of the cutlets shall almost meet; if the latter, the +_puree_ should garnish round them instead of being in the centre of +the dish. + + * * * * * + +MUTTON HAM. + +Choose a fine leg of mutton, rub it in daily with a mixture of three +ounces of brown sugar, two ounces of common salt, and half an ounce of +saltpetre, continue this process for a fortnight, then hang it to dry +in wood smoke for ten days longer. + + * * * * * + +LAMB AND SPREW. + +Take a fine neck or breast of lamb, put it in stewpan with as much +water as will cover it, add to it a bundle of sprew cut in pieces of +two inches in length, a small head of celery cut small, and one onion, +pepper, salt, and a sprig of parsley, let it simmer gently till the +meat and sprew are tender; a couple of lumps of sugar improves the +flavor; there should not be too much liquor, and all fat must be +removed; the sprew should surround the meat when served, and also be +thickly laid over it. + + * * * * * + +LAMB AND PEAS. + +Take the best end of a neck of lamb, either keep it whole or divide it +into chops as may be preferred, put it into a saucepan with a little +chopped onion, pepper, salt, and a small quantity of water; when half +done add half a peck of peas, half a lettuce cut fine, a little mint, +and a few lumps of sugar, and let it stew thoroughly; when done, +there must not be too much liquor; cutlets of veal or beef are also +excellent dressed as above. Although this is a spring dish it may be +almost equally well dressed in winter, by substituting small mutton +cutlets and preserved peas, which may be met with at any of the best +Italian warehouses; a breast or neck of lamb may also be stewed whole +in the same manner. + + * * * * * + +LAMB CUTLETS WITH CUCUMBERS. + +Take two fine cucumbers, peel and cut them lengthways, lay them in +vinegar for an hour, then stew them in good stock till tender, when +stir in the yolks of two or three eggs, a little flour and essence of +lemon, which must all be first mixed up together with a little of +the stock, have ready some cutlets trimmed and fried a light brown, +arrange them round the dish and pour the cucumbers in the centre. + + * * * * * + +A NICE RECEIPT FOR SHOULDER OF LAMB. + +Half boil it, score it and squeeze over lemon juice, and cover with +grated bread crumbs, egg and parsley, broil it over a clear fire +and put it to brown in a Dutch oven, or grill and serve with a sauce +seasoned with lemon pickle and chopped mint. + + * * * * * + +A CASSEREET, AN EAST INDIA DISH. + +Take two pounds of lamb chops, or mutton may be substituted, place +them in a stewpan, cover with water or gravy, season only with pepper +and salt, when the chops are half done, carefully skim off the fat +and add two table spoonsful of cassereet, stir it in the gravy which +should not be thickened, and finish stewing gently till done enough; +rice should accompany this dish. + + * * * * * + +TURKEY BONED AND FORCED. + +A turkey thus prepared may be either boiled or roasted; there are +directions for boning poultry which might be given, but it is always +better to let the poulterer do it; when boned it must be filled with a +fine forcemeat, which may be varied in several ways, the basis should +be according to the receipt given for veal stuffings, forcemeats, +sausage meat, tongue, and mushrooms added as approved. When boiled it +is served with any fine white sauce, French cooks use the veloute or +bechamel. When roasted, a cradle spit is very convenient, but if there +is not one the turkey must be carefully tied to the spit. + + * * * * * + +FOWLS BONED AND FORCED. + +The above directions serve also for fowls. + + * * * * * + +A SAVOURY WAY OF ROASTING A FOWL. + +Fill it with a fine seasoning, and just before it is ready for +serving, baste it well with clarified veal suet, and sprinkle it +thickly with very dry crumbs of bread, repeat this two or three times; +then place it in the dish, and serve with a fine brown gravy well +flavored with lemon juice; delicate forcemeat fritters should be also +served in the dish. + + * * * * * + +BOILED FOWLS. + +Are served with a fine white sauce, and are often garnished with +pieces of white cauliflower, or vegetable marrow, the chief object +is to keep them white; it is best to select white legged poultry for +boiling, as they prove whiter when dressed. + + * * * * * + +AMNASTICH. + +Stew gently one pint of rice in one quart of strong gravy till it +begins to swell, then add an onion stuck with cloves, a bunch of sweet +herbs, and a chicken stuffed with forcemeat, let it stew with the rice +till thoroughly done, then take it up and stir in the rice, the yolks +of four eggs, and the juice of a lemon; serve the fowl in the same +dish with the rice, which should be colored to a fine yellow with +saffron. + + * * * * * + +FOWLS STEWED WITH RICE AND CHORISA. + +Boil a fowl in sufficient water or gravy to cover it, when boiling for +ten minutes, skim off the fat and add half a pound of rice, and one +pound of _chorisa_ cut in about four pieces, season with a little +white pepper, salt, and a pinch of saffron to color it, and then stew +till the rice is thoroughly tender; there should be no gravy when +served, but the rice ought to be perfectly moist. + + * * * * * + +CURRIED CHICKEN. + +See curried veal. Undressed chicken is considered best for a curry, +it must be cut in small joints, the directions for curried veal are +equally adapted for fowls. + + * * * * * + +A NICE METHOD OF DRESSING FOWL AND SWEETBREAD. + +Take a fowl and blanch it, also a fine sweet bread, parboil them, then +cut off in smooth well shaped slices, all the white part of the fowl, +and slice the sweetbread in similar pieces, place them together in a +fine well-flavoured veal gravy; when done, serve neatly in the dish, +and pour over a fine white sauce, any that may be approved, the +remainder of the fowl must be cut up in small joints or pieces, not +separated from the bone, and fried to become brown, then place them in +a stew-pan with forcemeat balls, truffles, and morels; pour over half +or three quarters of a pint of beef gravy, and simmer till finished; a +little mushroom ketchup, or lemon-pickle may be added; in this manner +two very nice _entrees_ may be formed. + + * * * * * + +BLANKETTE OF FOWL. + +See blankette of veal. + + * * * * * + +TO STEW DUCK WITH GREEN PEAS. + +Stuff and half roast a duck, then put it into a stew-pan with an onion +sliced, a little mint and about one pint of beef gravy, add after it +has simmered half an hour, a quart of green peas, and simmer another +half hour; a little lump sugar is requisite. + + * * * * * + +TO WARM COLD POULTRY. + +Cut up the pieces required to be dressed, spread over them a seasoning +as for cutlets, and fry them; pour over a little good gravy, and +garnish with sippets of toast and sliced lemon, or place them in an +edging of rice or mashed potatoes. + + * * * * * + +BROILED FOWL AND MUSHROOMS. + +Truss a fine fowl as if for boiling, split it down the back, and broil +gently; when nearly done, put it in a stewpan with a good gravy, add +a pint of fresh button mushrooms, season to taste; a little mushroom +powder and lemon juice improve the flavour. + + * * * * * + +PIGEONS. + +To have a good appearance they should be larded and stuffed; glazing +is also an improvement, they form a nice _entree_; they may be stewed +in a strong gravy; when done enough, remove the pigeons, thicken the +gravy, add a few forcemeat and egg balls, and serve in the dish with +the pigeons. Or they may be split down the back, broiled, and then +finished in the stew-pan. + + * * * * * + +STEWED GIBLETS. + +Scald one or more sets of giblets, set them on the fire with a little +veal or chicken, or both, in a good gravy; season to taste, thicken +the gravy, and color it with browning, flavor with mushroom powder +and lemon-juice and one glass of white wine; forcemeat balls should +be added a few minutes before serving, and garnish with thin slices of +hard boiled eggs. + + * * * * * + +DUTCH TOAST. + +Take the remains of any cold poultry or meat, mince it and season +highly; add to it any cold dressed vegetable, mix it up with one or +more eggs, and let it simmer till hot in a little gravy; have ready +a square of toast, and serve it on it; squeeze over a little +lemon-juice, and sprinkle with white pepper. Vegetables prepared +in this way are excellent; cauliflower simmered in chicken broth, +seasoned delicately and minced on toast, is a nutritive good luncheon +for an invalid. + + * * * * * + +TIMBALE DE MACCARONI. + +This is a very pretty dish. The maccaroni must be boiled in water till +it slightly swells, and is soft enough to cut; it must be cut into +short pieces about two inches in length. Grease a mould, and stick the +maccaroni closely together all over the mould; when this is done, and +which will require some patience, fill up the space with friccassee +of chicken, sweetbreads, or whatever may be liked; close the mould +carefully, and boil. Rich white sauce is usually served with it, +but not poured over the timbale, as it would spoil the effect of the +honeycomb appearance, which is very pretty. + + * * * * * + +A SAVOURY PIE FOR PERSONS OF DELICATE DIGESTION. + +Cut up fowl and sweetbread, lay in the dish in alternate layers with +meat, jelly, and the yolks of hard-boiled eggs without the whites, +and flavor with lemon-juice, white pepper, and salt; cover with rice +prepared as follows: boil half a pound of rice in sufficient water to +permit it to swell; when tender beat it up to a thick paste with the +yolk of one or two eggs, season with a little salt, and spread it over +the dish thickly. The fowl and sweetbread should have been previously +simmered till half done in a little weak broth; the pie must be baked +in a gentle oven, and if the rice will not brown sufficiently, finish +with a salamander. + + * * * * * + +DESCAIDES. + +Take the livers of chickens or any other poultry; stew it gently in +a little good gravy seasoned with a little onion, mushroom essence, +pepper, and salt; when tender, remove the livers, place them on a +paste board, and mince them; return them to the saucepan, and stir +in the yolks of one or two eggs, according to the quantity of liver, +until the gravy becomes thick; have a round of toast ready on a hot +plate, and serve it on the toast; this is a very nice luncheon or +supper dish. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + + +Vegetables and Sundries. + +DIRECTIONS FOR CLEANING AND BOILING VEGETABLES. + +Vegetables are extremely nutritious when sufficiently boiled, but are +unwholesome and indigestible when not thoroughly dressed; still they +should not be over boiled, or they will lose their flavor. + +Vegetables should be shaken to get out any insects, and laid in water +with a little salt. + +Soft water is best suited for boiling vegetables, and they require +plenty of water; a little salt should be put in the saucepan with +them, and the water should almost invariably be boiling when they are +put in. + +Potatoes are much better when steamed. Peas and several other +vegetables are also improved by this mode of cooking them, although it +is seldom adopted in England. + + * * * * * + +MASHED POTATOES. + +Boil till perfectly tender; let them be quite dry, and press them +through a cullender, or mash and beat them well with a fork; add a +piece of butter, and milk, or cream, and continue beating till they +are perfectly smooth; return them to the saucepan to warm, or they may +be browned before the fire. The chief art is to beat them sufficiently +long, which renders them light. + +Potatoe balls are mashed potatoes formed into balls glazed with the +yolk of egg, and browned with a salamander. + + * * * * * + +POTATO WALL, OR EDGING. + +Raise a wall of finely-mashed potatoes, of two or three inches high, +round the dish; form it with a spoon to the shape required, brush it +over with egg, and put it in the oven to become hot and brown; if it +does not brown nicely, use the salamander. Rice is arranged the +same way to edge curries or fricassees; it must be first boiled till +tender. + + * * * * * + +POTATOE SHAVINGS. + +Take four fine large potatoes, and having peeled them, continue to cut +them up as if peeling them in ribbons of equal width; then throw the +shavings into a frying-pan, and fry of a fine brown; they must be +constantly moved with a silver fork to keep the pieces separate. They +should be laid on a cloth to drain, and placed in the dish lightly. + + * * * * * + +THE FRENCH WAY OF DRESSING SPINACH. + +Wash and boil till tender, then squeeze and strain it; press it in +a towel till almost dry; put it on a board, and chop it as finely as +possible; then return it to the saucepan, with butter, pepper, and +salt; stir it all the time, and let it boil fast. + + * * * * * + +STEWED SPINACH. + +Scald and chop some spinach small; cut up an onion; add pepper and +salt and brown sugar, with a little vinegar, stew all together gently; +serve with poached eggs or small forcemeat fritters. This forms a +pretty side-dish, and is also a nice way of dressing spinach to serve +in the same dish with cutlets. + + * * * * * + +TO STEW SPANISH BEANS AND PEAS. + +Soak the beans over night in cold water; they must be stewed in only +sufficient water to cover them, with two table spoonsful of oil, a +little pepper and salt, and white sugar. When done they should be +perfectly soft and tender. + + * * * * * + +PEAS STEWED WITH OIL. + +Put half a peck of peas into a stew-pan, half a lettuce chopped small, +a little mint, a small onion cut up, two table-spoonsful of oil, and a +dessert-spoonful of powdered sugar, with water sufficient to cover the +peas, watching, from time to time, that they do not become too +dry; let them stew gently, taking care that they do not burn, till +perfectly soft. When done they should look of a yellowish brown. + +French beans, brocoli, and greens, stewed in the above manner will be +found excellent. + + * * * * * + +CUCUMBER MANGO. + +Cut a large cucumber in half, length ways, scoop out the seedy part, +and lay it in vinegar that has been boiled with mustard-seed, a little +garlic, and spices, for twenty-four hours, then fill the cucumber with +highly-seasoned forcemeat, and stew it in a rich gravy, the cucumber +must be tied to keep it together. + + * * * * * + +CABBAGE AND RICE. + +Scald till tender a fine summer white cabbage, then chop it up small, +and put it into a stewpan, with a large cup of rice, also previously +scalded, add a little water, a large piece of butter, salt and pepper; +let it stew gently till thoroughly done, stirring from time to time, +and adding water and butter to prevent its getting too thick; there +should be no gravy in the dish when served. + + * * * * * + +PALESTINE SALAD. + +Take a dozen fine Jerusalem artichokes, boil till tender, let the +water strain off, and when cold cut them in quarters, and pour over +a fine salad mixture; the artichokes should lay in the sauce half an +hour before serving. This salad is a very refreshing one, and has the +advantage of being extremely wholesome. + + * * * * * + +A SPRING DISH. + +Take one quart of young peas, a little mint, a few lumps of sugar, a +little salt and white pepper, simmer them gently in one pint of water, +when the peas are half done, throw in small dumplings made of paste, +as if for short crust, and sweetened with a little brown sugar, beat +up two eggs, and drop in a spoonful at a time, just before serving; +it will require a deep dish, as the liquor is not to be strained off. +Some prefer the eggs poached. + + * * * * * + +CARROTS AU BEURRE. + +Boil them enough to be perfectly tender, then cut them in quarters, +and again in lengths of three inches, drain them from the water, and +put to them a piece of butter, salt and pepper, and simmer them for a +few minutes without boiling; a large piece of butter must be used. + +French beans are good dressed in the same way. + + * * * * * + +PUREE OF VEGETABLES. + +Take any vegetable that may be approved, boil till well done, drain +away all water, reduce the vegetable to a pulp, and add to it any fine +sauce, to make it of the consistency of a very thick custard. + + * * * * * + +JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES FRIED. + +Cut in slices after parboiling them, dip in batter, and fry. + + * * * * * + +STEWED RED CABBAGE. + +Clean and remove the outer leaves, slice it as thinly as possible, put +it in a saucepan with a large piece of butter, and a tea cup full of +water, salt and pepper; let it stew slowly till very tender. + + * * * * * + +MUSHROOMS AU NATUREL. + +Clean some fine fresh mushrooms, put them in a saucepan with a large +piece of butter, pepper and salt; let them simmer until tender, and +serve them with no other sauce than that in which they have been +dressed. Also stewed in a veal gravy, and served with white sauce on a +toast, they form a nice and pretty dish. + +The large flap mushrooms may be stewed in gravy, or simply broiled, +seasoned with cayenne pepper, salt, and lemon juice. + + * * * * * + +DRY TOMATO SOUP. + +Brown a couple of onions in a little oil, about two table-spoonsful +or more, according to the number of tomatos; when hot, add about six +tomatos cut and peeled, season with cayenne pepper and salt, and let +the whole simmer for a short time, then cut thin slices of bread, and +put as much with the tomatos as will bring them to the consistency +of a pudding; it must be well beaten up, stir in the yolks of two or +three eggs, and two ounces of butter warmed; turn the whole into a +deep dish and bake it very brown. Crumbs of bread should be strewed +over the top, and a little warmed butter poured over. + + * * * * * + +DEVILLED BISCUITS. + +Butter some biscuits on both sides, and pepper them well, make a paste +of either chopped anchovies, or fine cheese, and spread it on the +biscuit, with mustard and cayenne pepper, and grill them. + + * * * * * + +SAVOURY EGGS. + +Boil some eggs hard, put them into cold water, cut them into halves, +take out the yolks, beat them up in a mortar with grated hung beef, +fill the halves with this mixture, fry lightly, and serve with brown +gravy. + + * * * * * + +SAVOURY CHEESE CAKES. + +Grate finely an equal quantity of stale bread and good cheese, season +with a little pepper and salt, mix into a batter with eggs, form into +thin cakes and fry. + + * * * * * + +SCALLOPED EGGS. + +Poach lightly three or four eggs, place them in a dish, pour upon them +a little warm butter; sprinkle with pepper, salt, and nutmeg, strew +over with crumbs of bread, and brown before the fire. + + * * * * * + +MACCARONI AND CHEESE. + +Boil some maccaroni in milk or water until tender, then drain them and +place on a dish with bits of butter and grated Parmesan cheese; when +the dish is filled grate more cheese over it and brown before the +fire. + + * * * * * + +A FINE RECEIPT FOR A SAVOURY OMELETTE. + +Break four eggs, beat them up till thin enough to pass through a +hair sieve, then beat them up till perfectly smooth and thin; a small +omelette frying-pan is necessary for cooking it well. Dissolve in it +a piece of butter, about an ounce and a half, pour in the egg, and as +soon as it rises and is firm, slide it on to a warm plate and fold +it over; it should only be fried on one side, and finely minced herbs +should be sprinkled over the unfried side with pepper and salt. A +salamander is frequently held over the unfried side of the omelette to +take off the rawness it may otherwise have. + + * * * * * + +CHORISA OMELETTE. + +Add to the eggs, after they are well beaten as directed in the last +receipt, half a tea-cup full of finely minced _chorisa_; this omelette +must be lightly fried on both sides, or the salamander held over long +enough to dress the _chorisa_. + + * * * * * + +RAMAKINS. + +Mix together three eggs, one ounce of warmed butter, and two of fine +cheese grated, and bake in small patty pans. + + * * * * * + +RISSOLES. + +Make a fine forcemeat of any cold meat, poultry, or fish, enclose it +in a very rich puff paste, rolled out extremely thin. They may be made +into balls or small triangular turnovers, or into long narrow ribbons; +the edges must be pressed together, that they may not burst in frying. +They form a pretty dish. + + * * * * * + +CROQUETTES. + +Pound any cold poultry, meat, or fish, make it into a delicate +forcemeat; the flavor can be varied according to taste; minced +mushrooms, herbs, parsley, grated lemon peel, are suitable for poultry +and veal; minced anchovies should be used instead of mushrooms when +the croquettes are made of fish. Form the mixture into balls or oval +shapes the size of small eggs; dip them into beaten eggs, thickly +sprinkle with bread crumbs or pounded vermicelli, and fry of a +handsome brown. + + * * * * * + +CASSEROLE AU RIZ. + +Boil some rice till quite tender, make it into a firm paste with one +egg and a couple of tablespoons of strong gravy; then line the inside +of a mould with the paste of sufficient thickness to turn out without +breaking. Some cooks fill the mould instead of lining it only, and +scoop away the centre. After it is turned out the rice must stand till +cold, before it is removed from the mould; then fill the rice with +friccassee of fowl and sweetbread, with a rich white sauce, and place +it in the oven to become hot and brown. The mould used for a casserole +is oval and fluted, and resembles a cake mould. It is as well to +observe, it cannot be made in a jelly mould. + + * * * * * + +A FONDU. + +Make into a batter one ounce and a half of potatoe flour, with the +same quantity of grated cheese and of butter, and a quarter of a +pint of milk or cream; add a little salt, very little pepper, and the +well-beaten yolks of four fine fresh eggs; when all this is well mixed +together, pour in the whites of the eggs, well whisked to a froth; +pour the mixture into a deep soup plate or dish, used expressly for +the purpose, and bake in a moderate oven. The dish should be only half +filled with the _fondu_, as it will rise very high. It must be served +the moment it is ready, or it will fall. It is a good plan to hold a +salamander over it while being brought to table. + + * * * * * + +PETITS FONDEAUS. + +Make a batter as for a fondu, but use rice flour or arrow root instead +of potatoe flour; add the egg in the same manner as for a fondu, and +pour the mixture into small paper trays fringed round the top. The +mixture should only half fill the trays or cases. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + + +Pastry. + +DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING PASTE. + +To make good light paste requires much practice; as it is not only +from the proportions, but from the manner of mixing the various +ingredients, that paste acquires its good or bad qualities. + +Paste should be worked up very lightly, and no strength or pressure +used; it should be rolled out _from you_, as lightly as possible. A +marble slab is better than a board to make paste on. + +The flour should be dried for some time before the fire previously to +being used. In forming it into paste it should be wetted as little as +possible, to prevent its being tough. It is a great mistake to imagine +_lard_ is better adapted for pastry than butter or clarified fat; it +may make the paste lighter, but neither the color nor the flavor will +be nearly so good, and the saving is extremely trifling. + +To ensure lightness, paste should be set in the oven directly it is +made. + +Puff paste requires a brisk oven. + +Butter should be added to the paste in small pieces. + +The more times the paste is folded and rolled, if done with a light +hand and the butter added with skill, the richer and lighter it will +prove. It is no longer customary to line the dish for pies and fruit +tarts. + + * * * * * + +PLAIN PUFF PASTE. + +Mix a pound of flour into a stiff paste with a little water, first +having rubbed into it about two ounces of butter, then roll it out; +add by degrees the remainder of the butter (there should be altogether +half a pound of butter), fold the paste and roll about two or three +times. + + * * * * * + +VERY RICH PUFF PASTE. + +Mix in the same manner equal quantities of butter and flour, taking +care to have the flour dried for a short time before the fire; it may +be folded and rolled five or six times. This paste is well suited to +vol-au-vents and tartlets; an egg well beaten and mixed with the paste +is sometimes added. + + * * * * * + +PLAIN SHORT CRUST. + +Put half a pound of fresh butter to a pound of flour, add the yolks of +two eggs and a little powdered sugar, mix into a paste with water, and +roll out once. + + * * * * * + +EGG PASTE, CALLED IN MODERN COOKERY NOUILLES. + +This is formed by making a paste of flour and beaten eggs, without +either butter or water; it must be rolled out extremely thin and left +to dry; it may then be cut into narrow strips or stamped with paste +cutters. It is more fashionable in soups than vermicelli. + + * * * * * + +BEEF DRIPPING PASTE. + +Mix half a pound of clarified dripping into one pound of flour; work +it into a paste with water, and roll out twice. This is a good paste +for a common meat pie. + + * * * * * + +GLAZE FOR PASTRY. + +When the pastry is nearly baked, brush it over with white of egg, +cover it thickly with sifted sugar, and brown it in the oven, or it +may be browned with a salamander. + +For savory pies beat the yolk of an egg, dip a paste-brush into it, +and lay it on the crust before baking. + + * * * * * + +FRUIT TARTS OR PIES. + +A fruit tart is so common a sweet that it is scarcely necessary to +give any directions concerning it. Acid fruits are best stewed before +putting into a pie: the usual proportions are half a pound of sugar +to a quart of fruit--not quite so much if the fruit is ripe; the fruit +should be laid high in the middle of the dish, to make the pie a good +shape. It is the fashion to lay over the crust, when nearly baked, +an icing of the whites of eggs whisked with sugar; the tart or pie is +then replaced in the oven. + + * * * * * + +A VERY FINE SAVOURY PIE. + +Lay a fine veal cutlet, cut in pieces and seasoned, at the bottom of +the dish; lay over it a layer of smoked beef fat, then a layer of fine +cold jelly made from gravy-beef and veal, then hard boiled eggs in +slices, then chicken or sweetbread, and then again the jelly, and +so on till the dish is filled; put no water, and season highly with +lemon-juice, essence of mushroom, pepper, salt, and nutmeg; also, +if approved, a blade of mace: small cakes of fine forcemeat are an +improvement; cover with a fine puff paste, and brush over with egg, +and bake. + + * * * * * + +TARTLETS. + +Make a very rich light puff paste, and roll it out to half an inch of +thickness; it should be cut with fluted paste-cutters, lightly baked, +and the centre scooped out afterwards, and the sweetmeat or jam +inserted; a pretty dish of pastry may be made by cutting the paste in +ribbons of three inches in length, and one and a half in width; bake +them lightly, and pile them one upon another, with jam between each, +in the form of a cone. + + * * * * * + +CHEESECAKES. + +Warm four ounces of butter, mix it with the same quantity of +loaf-sugar sifted, grate in the rind of three lemons, squeeze in +the juice of one, add three well-beaten eggs, a little nutmeg, and +a spoonful of brandy; put this mixture into small tins lined with a +light puff paste, and bake. + +Cheesecakes can be varied by putting almonds beaten instead of the +lemon, or by substituting Seville oranges, and adding a few slices of +candied orange and lemon peel. + + * * * * * + +GIBLET PIE. + +Prepare the giblets as for "_stewed giblets_" they should then be laid +in a deep dish, covered with a puff paste, and baked. + + * * * * * + +MOLINA PIE. + +Mince finely cold veal or chicken, with smoked beef or tongue; season +well, add lemon-juice and a little nutmeg, let it simmer in a small +quantity of good beef or veal gravy; while on the fire, stir in the +yolks of four eggs, put it in a dish to cool, and then cover with a +rich pastry, and bake it. + + * * * * * + +VOL AU VENT. + +This requires the greatest lightness in the pastry, as all depends +upon its rising when baked; it should be rolled out about an inch and +a half in thickness, cut it with a fluted tin of the size of the dish +in which it is to be served. Also cut a smaller piece, which must be +rolled out considerably thinner than an inch, to serve as a lid for +the other part; bake both pieces, and when done, scoop out the +crumb of the largest, and fill it with a white fricassee of chicken, +sweetbread, or whatever may be selected; the sauce should be well +thickened, or it would soften, and run through the crust. + + * * * * * + +A VOL-AU-VENT OF FRUIT. + +It is now the fashion to fill _vol-au-vents_ with fruits richly stewed +with sugar until the syrup is almost a jelly; it forms a very pretty +entremet. + + * * * * * + +PETITS VOL-AU-VENTS. + +These are made in the same way, but cut in small rounds, the crumb +of the larger is scooped out, and the hollow filled with any of the +varieties of patty preparations or preserved fruits. + + * * * * * + +MINCE PIES. + +Grease and line tin patty-pans with a fine puff paste rolled out thin; +fill them with mince-meat, cover them with another piece of paste, +moisten the edges, close them carefully, cut them evenly round, and +bake them about half an hour in a well-heated oven. + + * * * * * + +PATTY MEATS + +May be prepared from any dressed materials, such as cold dressed veal, +beef and mutton, poultry, sweetbreads, and fish; the chief art is to +mince them properly, and give them the appropriate flavor and sauce; +for veal, sweetbreads, and poultry, which may be used together or +separately, the usual seasonings are mace, nutmeg, white pepper, salt, +mushrooms minced, or in powder, lemon-peel, and sometimes the juice also; +the mince is warmed in a small quantity of white sauce, not too thin, +and the patty crusts, when ready baked, are filled with it. + +For beef and mutton the seasonings are salt, pepper, allspice, a few +sweet herbs powdered, with the addition, if approved, of a little +ketchup; the mince must be warmed in strong well-thickened beef gravy. + +If the mince is of fish, season with anchovy sauce, nutmeg, +lemon-peel, pepper and salt; warm it, in a sauce prepared with butter, +flour, and milk or cream, worked together smoothly and stirred till +it thickens; the mince is then simmered in it for a few minutes, till +hot; the seasonings may be put with the sauces, instead of with the +mince. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + + +Sweet Dishes, Puddings, Cakes, &c. + +GENERAL REMARKS. + +The freshness of all ingredients for puddings is of great importance. + +Dried fruits should be carefully picked, and sometimes washed and +should then be dried. Rice, sago, and all kinds of seed should be +soaked and well washed before they are mixed into puddings. + +Half an hour should be allowed for boiling a bread pudding in a half +pint basin, and so on in proportion. + +All puddings of the custard kind require gentle boiling, and when +baked must be set in a moderate oven. By whisking to a solid froth the +whites of the eggs used for any pudding, and stirring them into it at +the moment of placing it in the oven, it will become exceedingly light +and rise high in the dish. + +All baked puddings should be baked in tin moulds in the form of a deep +pie dish, but slightly fluted, it should be well greased by pouring +into it a little warmed butter, and then turned upside down for a +second, to drain away the superfluous butter; then sprinkle, equally +all over, sifted white sugar, or dried crumbs of bread, then pour the +pudding mixture into the mould; it should, when served, be turned +out of the mould, when it will look rich and brown, and have the +appearance of a cake. + +To ensure the lightness of cakes, it is necessary to have all the +ingredients placed for an hour or more before the fire, that they may +all be warm and of equal temperature; without this precaution, cakes +will be heavy even when the best ingredients are employed. Great +care and experience are required in the management of the oven; to +ascertain when a cake is sufficiently baked, plunge a knife into it, +draw it instantly away, when, if the blade is sticky, return the cake +to the oven; if, on the contrary, it appears unsoiled the cake is +ready. + +The lightness of cakes depends upon the ingredients being beaten +well together. All stiff cakes may be beaten with the hand, but pound +cakes, sponge, &c., should be beaten with a whisk or spoon. + + * * * * * + +BOLA D'AMOR. + +The recipe for this much celebrated and exquisite confection is +simpler than may be supposed from its elaborate appearance, it +requires chiefly care, precision, and attention. Clarify two pounds of +white sugar; to ascertain when it is of a proper consistency, drop a +spoonful in cold water, form it into a ball, and try if it sounds +when struck against a glass; when it is thus tested, take the yolks +of twenty eggs, mix them up gently and pass them through a sieve, +then have ready a funnel, the hole of which must be about the size of +vermicelli; hold the funnel over the sugar, while it is boiling over a +charcoal fire; pour the eggs through, stirring the sugar all the time, +and taking care to hold the funnel at such a distance from the sugar, +as to admit of the egg dropping into it. When the egg has been a few +minutes in the sugar, it will be hard enough to take out with a silver +fork, and must then be placed on a drainer; continue adding egg to +the boiling sugar till enough is obtained; there should be previously +prepared one pound of sweet almonds, finely pounded and boiled in +sugar, clarified with orange flower-water only; place in a dish a +layer of this paste, over which spread a layer of citron cut in thin +slices, and then a thick layer of the egg prepared as above; continue +working thus in alternate layers till high enough to look handsome. +It should be piled in the form of a cone, and the egg should form the +last layer. It must then be placed in a gentle oven till it becomes +a little set, and the last layer slightly crisp; a few minutes will +effect this. It must be served in the dish in which it is baked, and +is generally ornamented with myrtle and gold and silver leaf. + + * * * * * + +BOLA TOLIEDO. + +Take one pound of butter, and warm it over the fire with a little +milk, then put it into a pan with one pound of flour, six beaten eggs, +a quarter of a pound of beaten sweet almonds, and two table-spoonsful +of yeast; make these ingredients into a light paste, and set it before +the fire to rise; then grease a deep dish, and place in a layer of +the paste, then some egg prepared as for Bola d'Amor, then slices +of citron, and a layer of egg marmalade, sprinkle each layer with +cinnamon, and fill the dish with alternate layers. A rich puff paste +should line the dish, which ought to be deep; bake in a brisk oven, +after which, sugar clarified with orange flour-water must be poured +over till the syrup has thoroughly penetrated the Bola. + + * * * * * + +A BOLA D'HISPANIOLA. + +Take one pound and a half of flour, with three spoonsful of yeast, two +ounces of fresh butter, one table spoonful of essence of lemon, eight +eggs, and half a tea-cup full of water, and make it into a light +dough, set it to rise for about an hour, then roll it out and cut +it into three pieces; have previously ready, a quarter of a pound of +citron, and three quarters of a pound of orange and lemon peel, cut in +thin slices, mixed with powdered sugar and cinnamon; the Bola should +be formed with the pieces of dough, layers of the fruit being placed +between; it should not be baked in a tin. Powdered sweet almonds and +sugar, should be strewed over it before baking. + + * * * * * + +SUPERIOR RECEIPT FOR ALMOND PUDDING. + +Beat up the yolks of ten eggs, and the whites of seven; add half a +pound of sweet almonds pounded finely, half a pound of white sugar, +half an ounce of bitter almonds, and a table-spoonful of orange flower +water, when thoroughly mixed, grease a dish, put in the pudding and +bake in a brisk oven; when done, strew powdered sugar over the top, +or, which is exceedingly fine, pour over clarified sugar with orange +flower water. + + * * * * * + +GERMAN OR SPANISH PUFFS. + +Put a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and a tea-cup full of cold +water into a saucepan, when the butter is melted, stir in, while on +the fire, four table spoonsful of flour; when thoroughly mixed, put +it in a dish to cool, and then add four well beaten eggs; butter some +cups, half fill them with the batter, bake in a quick oven and serve +with clarified sugar. + + * * * * * + +A LUCTION, OR A RACHAEL. + +Make a thin nouilles paste, cut into strips of about two inches wide, +leave it to dry, then boil the strips in a little water, and drain +through a cullender; when the water is strained off, mix it with +beaten eggs, white sugar, a little fresh butter, and grated lemon +peel; bake or boil in a shape lined with preserved cherries, when +turned out pour over a fine custard, or cream, flavored with brandy, +and sweetened to taste. + + * * * * * + +PRENESAS. + +Take one pint of milk, stir in as much flour as will bring it to the +consistency of hasty pudding; boil it till it becomes thick, let it +cool, and beat it up with ten eggs; when smooth, take a spoonful at a +time, and drop it into a frying-pan, in which there is a good quantity +of boiling clarified butter, fry of a light brown, and serve with +clarified sugar, flavored with lemon essence. + + * * * * * + +SOPA D'ORO: OR GOLDEN SOUP. + +Clarify a pound of sugar in a quarter of a pint of water, and the same +quantity of orange flower-water; cut into pieces the size of dice +a thin slice of toasted bread, or cut it into shapes with a paste +cutter, throw it, while hot, into the sugar, with an ounce of sweet +almonds pounded very finely, then take the beaten yolks of four eggs. +Pour over the sugar and bread, stir gently, and let it simmer a few +minutes. Serve in a deep glass dish, sprinkled over with pounded +cinnamon. + + * * * * * + +POMMES FRITES. + +This is a simple but very nice way of preparing apples. Peel and cut +five fine apples in half, dip them in egg and white powdered sugar, +and fry in butter; when done, strew a little white sugar over them. + + * * * * * + +CHEJADOS. + +Clarify a pound of sugar in half a pint of water; peel and grate a +moderately sized cocoa nut, add it to the syrup, and let it simmer +till perfectly soft, putting rose water occasionally to prevent its +becoming too dry; stir it continually to prevent burning. Let it cool, +and mix it with the beaten yolks of six eggs; make a thin nouilles +pastry, cut it into rounds of the size of a tea-cup; pinch up the +edges deep enough to form a shape, fill them with the sweet meat, and +bake of a light brown. A rich puff paste may be substituted for the +nouilles pastry if preferred. + + * * * * * + +COCOA NUT DOCE. + +This is merely the cocoa nut and sugar prepared as above, without egg, +and served in small glasses, or baked. + + * * * * * + +COCOA NUT PUDDING. + +Take about half a pound of finely grated cocoa nut; beat up to a cream +half a pound of fresh butter, add it to the cocoa nut, with half a +pound of white sugar, and six whites of eggs beaten to a froth; mix +the whole well together, and bake in a dish lined with a rich puff +paste. + + * * * * * + +EGG MARMALADE. + +Clarify one pound of sugar in half a pint of water till it becomes a +thick syrup. While clarifying, add one ounce of sweet almonds blanched +and pounded; let it cool, and stir in gently the yolks of twenty eggs +which have been previously beaten and passed through a sieve; great +care must be taken to stir it continually the same way; when well +mixed, place it over a slow fire till it thickens, stirring all the +time to prevent burning. Some cooks add vanilla, considering the +flavor an improvement. + + * * * * * + +MACROTES. + +Take one pound of French roll dough, six ounces of fresh butter, two +eggs, and as much flour as will be requisite to knead it together; +roll in into the form of a long French roll, and cut it in thin round +slices; set them at a short distance from the fire to rise, and then +fry in the best Florence oil; when nearly cold, dip them in clarified +sugar, flavored with essence of lemon. + + * * * * * + +TART DE MOY. + +Soak three-quarters of a pound of savoy biscuits in a quart of milk; +add six ounces of fresh butter, four eggs, one ounce of candid orange +peel, the same quantity of lemon peel, and one ounce of citron, mix +all well together; sweeten with white sugar, and bake in a quick oven; +when nearly done, spread over the top the whites of the eggs well +whisked, and return it to the oven. + + * * * * * + +GRIMSTICH. + +Make into a stiff paste one pint of biscuit powder, a little brown +sugar, grated lemon peel, six eggs, and three-quarters of a pound +of warmed fresh butter; then prepare four apples chopped finely, a +quarter of a pound of sweet almonds blanched and chopped, half a pound +of stoned raisins, a little nutmeg grated, half a pound of coarse +brown sugar, and a glass of white wine, or a little brandy; mix the +above ingredients together, and put them on a slow fire to simmer for +half an hour, and place in a dish to cool; make the paste into the +form of small dumplings, fill them with the fruit, and bake them; when +put in the oven, pour over a syrup of brown sugar and water, flavored +with lemon juice. + + * * * * * + +FRENCH ROLL FRITTERS. + +Take off the crust of a long round French roll; cut the crumb in thin +slices, soak them in boiling milk, taking care they do not break; have +a dish ready with several eggs beaten up, and with a fish slice remove +the bread from the milk, letting the milk drain off, dip them into the +dish of eggs, and half fry them in fine salad oil, they must then +be again soaked in the milk and dipped the egg, and then fried of a +handsome light brown; while hot, pour over clarified sugar, flavored +with cinnamon and orange flower water. + + * * * * * + +HAMAN'S FRITTERS. + +Take two spoonful of the best Florence oil, scald it, and when hot, +mix with it one pound of flour, add four beaten eggs and make it into +a paste, roll it out thin and cut it into pieces about four inches +square, let them dry and fry them in oil; the moment the pieces are +put in the frying pan, they must be drawn up with two silver skewers +into different forms according to fancy; a few minutes is sufficient +to fry them, they should be crisp when done. + + * * * * * + +WAFLERS. + +Mix a cup and a half of thick yeast with a little warm milk, and set +it with two pounds of flour before the fire to rise, then mix with +them one pound of fresh butter, ten eggs, a grated nutmeg, a quarter +of a pint of orange flower-water, a little powdered cinnamon, and +three pints of warm milk; when the batter is perfectly smooth, butter +the irons, fill them with it, close them down tightly, and put them +between the bars of a bright clear fire; when sufficiently done, they +will slip easily out of the irons. + +Wafler irons are required and can be obtained at any good ironmongers +of the Hebrew persuasion. + + * * * * * + +LAMPLICH. + +Take half a pound of currants, the same quantity of raisins and sugar, +a little citron, ground cloves and cinnamon, with eight apples finely +chopped; mix all together, then have ready a rich puff paste cut into +small triangles, fill them with the fruit like puffs, and lay them in +a deep dish, let the pieces be placed closely, and when the dish is +full, pour over one ounce of fresh butter melted in a tea-cup full of +clarified sugar, flavoured with essence of lemon, and bake in an oven +not too brisk. + + * * * * * + +STAFFIN. + +This is composed of the fruit, &c., prepared as above, but the dish +is lined with the paste, and the fruit laid in alternate layers with +paste till the dish is filled; the paste must form the top layer, +clarified sugar is poured over before it is put into the oven. + + * * * * * + +RICE FRITTERS. + +Boil half a pound of rice, in a small quantity of water, to a jelly; +let it cool, and beat it up with six eggs, three spoonsful of flour, a +little grated lemon peel, fry like fritters, either in butter or oil, +and serve with white sugar sifted over them. + + * * * * * + +LEMON TART. + +Grate the peel of six lemons, add the juice of one, with a quarter of +a pound of pounded almonds, a quarter of a pound of preserved lemon +and orange peel, half a pound of powdered white sugar, and six eggs +well beaten, mix all together, and bake in a dish lined with a fine +pastry. + + * * * * * + +ANOTHER WAY. + +Slice six lemons and lay them in sugar all night, then mix with them +two savoy biscuits, three ounces of orange and lemon peel, three +ounces of ground almonds, one ounce of whole almonds blanched, and +bake in a dish lined with pastry. Orange tarts are prepared in the +same way, substituting oranges for the lemons. + + * * * * * + +ALMOND RICE. + +Boil half a pound of whole rice in milk until soft, beat it through +a sieve, set it on the fire, with sugar according to taste, a few +pounded sweet almonds and a few slices of citron; when it has simmered +a short time, let it cool; place it in a mould, and when sufficiently +firm turn it out, stick it with blanched almonds, and pour over a fine +custard. This may be made without milk, and by increasing the quantity +of almonds will be found exceedingly good. + + * * * * * + +ALMOND PASTE. + +Blanch half a pound of fine almonds, pound them to a paste, a few +drops of water are necessary to be added, from time to time, or they +become oily; then mix thoroughly with it half a pound of white sifted +sugar, put it into a preserving pan, and let them simmer very gently +until they become dry enough not to stick to a clean spoon when +touched; it must be constantly stirred. + + * * * * * + +RICE FRUIT TARTS. + +For persons who dislike pastry, the following is an excellent way of +preparing fruit. Boil in milk some whole rice till perfectly soft, +sweeten with white sugar, and when nearly cold, line a dish with it, +have ready some currants, raspberries, cherries, or any other fruit, +which must have been previously stewed and sweetened, fill the dish +with it; beat up the whites of three eggs to a froth, mixed with a +little white sugar, and lay over the top, and place it in the oven for +half an hour. + + * * * * * + +BREAD FRUIT TARTS. + +Line a dish with thin slices of bread, then lay the fruit with brown +sugar in alternate layers, with slices of bread; when the dish is +filled, pour over half a tea-cup full of water, and let the top be +formed of thin pieces of bread thickly strewed over with brown sugar, +bake until thoroughly done. + + * * * * * + +RICE CUSTARD. + +This is a very innocent and nutritive custard. Take two ounces of +whole rice and boil it in three pints of milk until it thickens, then +add half a pound of pounded sweet almonds, and sweeten to taste; a +stick of cinnamon and a piece of lemon peel should be boiled in it, +and then taken out. + + * * * * * + +CREME BRUN. + +Boil a large cup of cream, flavor with essence of almonds and +cinnamon, and then mix with it the yolk of three eggs, carefully +beaten and strained, stirring one way to keep it smooth; place it on a +dish in small heaps, strew over powdered sugar and beaten almonds, and +brown with a salamander. + + * * * * * + +PANCAKES. + +Mix a light batter of eggs with flour and milk or water, fry in +boiling butter or clarified suet; they may be fried without butter or +fat, by putting more eggs and a little cream, the pan must be very +dry and clean; those fried without butter are very delicate and +fashionable, they should be fried of the very lightest colour; they +are good also made of rice, which must be boiled in milk till quite +tender; then beat up with eggs, and flavoured according to taste, and +fried like other pancakes. + + * * * * * + +PANCAKES FOR CHILDREN. + +Take a pint of finely grated bread crumbs, simmer in a little milk +and water, flavour with cinnamon or lemon peel grated, add a couple of +beaten eggs, and sweeten to taste, drop a small quantity into the pan +and fry like pancakes. + + * * * * * + +A NICE RICE PUDDING FOR CHILDREN. + +Boil till tender half a pound of well picked rice in one quart of +fresh milk, sweeten with white sugar, and flavour with whole cinnamon, +lemon peel, and a bay leaf; when the rice is tender, place it in a +deep dish, pour over a very little butter warmed in a little milk, +and bake until brown; a slow oven is requisite unless the rice is +extremely soft before it is put in the oven. + + * * * * * + +A RICH BREAD AND BUTTER PUDDING. + +Lay in a deep dish alternate layers of bread and butter cut from a +French roll, and the following mixture: the yolks of four eggs beaten, +four ounces of moist sugar, a few soaked ratafias, a table-spoonful +of brandy and a few currants; fill up the dish with these layers, and +pour over a little milk, the last layer should be of bread and butter, +the whites of the eggs beaten to a froth may, if an elegant appearance +is wished for, be laid over the top when the pudding is nearly baked. + + * * * * * + +A CHERRY BATTER PUDDING. + +Stone and pick some fine cherries, put them into a buttered mould, +and pour over them a fine batter well sweetened, tie over the mould +closely, and boil one hour and a half; serve with sweet sauce. This +is a delicious pudding; plums or damsons are sometimes used instead of +cherries. + + * * * * * + +CUMBERLAND PUDDING. + +Take equal quantities of bread crumbs, apples finely chopped, currants +and shred suet, sweeten with brown sugar, and mix all together with +three eggs, a little brandy, grated nutmeg, and lemon peel; boil in +a round mould from one to two hours, according to the size of the +pudding. + + * * * * * + +COLLEGE PUDDING. + +These are made in a similar way to Cumberland pudding, with the +omission of the apples, they are made in balls, and fried or baked in +cups. A sweet sauce is served with them. + + * * * * * + +PLUM PUDDING. + +To one pound of currants add one pound of raisins, one pound of shred +suet, one pound flour (or half a pound bread crumbs and half a pound +of flour), a quarter of a pound of candied orange and lemon peel, +a little citron cut thin, half a pound of moist sugar; mix all well +together as each article is added, then stir in six beaten eggs and a +glass of brandy, beat the pudding well for half an hour, let it stand +some time, then put it into a basin and boil six or seven hours in +plenty of water; it should be seasoned according to taste with ginger, +nutmeg, cloves, &c. Serve with sifted sugar or whites of eggs beaten +to a froth. + + * * * * * + +RATAFIA PUDDING. + +Soak the crumb of a French roll and half a pound of ratafia cakes in +milk or cream, then mix with them three ounces of warmed fresh butter, +the yolks of five and the whites of two eggs, sweeten to taste; add +one ounce of pounded almonds, and a few bitter almonds, boil in a +shape lined with dried cherries, or bake in a cake-tin first well +buttered, and sprinkled with bread crumbs. + + * * * * * + +PASSOVER PUDDING. + +Mix equal quantities of biscuit powder and shred suet, half the +quantity of currants and raisins, a little spice and sugar, with an +ounce of candied peels, and fine well beaten eggs; make these into +a stiff batter, and boil well, and serve with a sweet sauce. This +pudding is excellent baked in a pudding tin, it must be turned out +when served. + + * * * * * + +ANOTHER SORT. + +Mix the various ingredients above-named, substituting for the raisins, +apples minced finely, add a larger proportion of sugar, and either +boil or bake. + + * * * * * + +ANOTHER SORT. + +Mix into a batter a cup full of biscuit powder, with a little milk and +a couple of eggs, to which add three ounces of sugar, two of warmed +butter, a little shred of lemon peel, and a table-spoonful of rum; +pour the mixture into a mould, and boil or bake. + + * * * * * + +PASSOVER FRITTERS. + +Mix into a smooth batter a tea-cup of biscuit powder with beaten eggs, +and sweeten with white sifted sugar; add grated lemon peel, and a +spoonful of orange flower-water, and fry of a light brown; the flavor +may be varied by substituting a few beaten almonds, with one or two +bitter, instead of the orange flower-water. + + * * * * * + +A SUPERIOR RECEIPT FOR PASSOVER FRITTERS. + +Make a thin batter as already described in the former receipt; drop +it into a soufle pan, fry lightly, and strew over pounded cinnamon, +sifted sugar, and finely chopped almonds; hold over a salamander to +brown the upper side. Slide the fritter on to a hot dish, and fold; +pour over, when in the dish, clarified sugar. + + * * * * * + +PASSOVER CURRANT FRITTERS. + +Mix a thick batter, as before, add some well-washed and dried +currants, and fry of a rich brown; serve with a sweet sauce, flavored +with wine or shrub, and sweetened with moist sugar; these are often +made in the shape of small balls, and fried and served in the same +sauce. + + * * * * * + +BATTER PUDDING. + +Stir in three ounces of flour, four beaten eggs, and one pint of milk, +sweeten to taste, and mix to a smooth batter about the thickness of +good cream, and boil in a buttered basin. + + * * * * * + +CUSTARD PUDDING. + +To one desert spoonful of flour, add one pint of fresh milk and the +yolks of five eggs; flavor according to fancy, with sugar, nutmeg, or +lemon-peel; beat to a froth two whites of eggs and pour to the rest; +boil rather more than half an hour. + + * * * * * + +BREAD PUDDING. + +Grate stale bread, or soak the crumb of a French roll in milk, which +must be warmed; beat with it two or three eggs, flavor and sweeten +to taste, sometimes with a little wine or essence of lemon, or beaten +almonds; it will require to be boiled about half an hour. This pudding +is excellent made as above, with the addition of the peel of one whole +lemon grated, with its juice, and baked. + + * * * * * + +VERMICELLI AND MACCARONI PUDDING. + +Boil till tender four ounces of either of the above articles, in a +pint of milk; flavor as directed in the preceding receipt, and boil in +a mould, which may be lined with raisins. It should be served with any +sweet pudding sauce. + + * * * * * + +MILLET, ARROWROOT, GROUND RICE, RICE, TAPIOCA, AND SAGO PUDDINGS. + +Puddings of this sort are so similar and simple, that it is only +necessary to give one receipt, which will serve as a guide for +all;--they are all made with milk, all require to be thoroughly done, +all require to be mixed with eggs and sweetened with sugar, and +are good either boiled or baked. The cook must use her judgment in +adopting the quantities to the size of the pudding required, and the +taste of the family she serves. + + * * * * * + +MINCED MEAT. + +Take one pound of tender roasted meat, two pounds of shred suet, three +pounds of currants, six chopped apples, a quarter of a loaf grated, +nutmegs, cloves, pepper, salt, one pound of sugar, grated lemon and +orange peel, lemon juice, and two wine glasses of brandy, the same of +white wine, and two ounces of citron, and the same of candied lemon +peel; mix all well together; the ingredients ought to be added +separately. Minced meat should be kept a day or two before using. The +same proportions, as above, without meat, will be very good; a little +port wine is sometimes substituted for the brandy. + + * * * * * + +BAKED SUET PUDDING. + +Mix one pint of water, six ounces of flour, three of shred suet, and +two or three beaten eggs; sweeten to taste. Add raisins or currants if +approved, and bake in a brick oven. + + * * * * * + +YORKSHIRE PUDDING. + +Mix into a smooth batter half a pound of flour, four eggs, if intended +to be rich, otherwise two, a pint of milk, and a little salt, it +should be about an inch thick; it can be made with or without milk by +using a greater proportion of eggs, but it is not so good. + + * * * * * + +GATEAU DE TOURS. + +Take a pound-cake, cut it in slices about half an inch in thickness, +spread each slice with jam or preserve, then replace them to the +original form; cover the cake with whites of eggs and sugar, whisked +to a froth, and set it in a cool oven to dry. + + * * * * * + +JAUMANGE. + +Simmer half a pound of white sugar in three-quarters of a pint of +water, with the thinly cut peel of two lemons; when the sugar is +melted, add an ounce of dissolved isinglass, and the juice of three +lemons, a glass of brandy and three of sherry, beat up with this the +yolks of five or six eggs. Place the basin in which it is mixed into a +pan of boiling water to thicken it, then pour it into a mould and set +it to cool; if it does not thicken by being put in a pan of boiling +water, set the pan on the fire and stir it for a few minutes. + + * * * * * + +GATEAU DE POMME. + +Take ten or twelve fine baking apples, peel and take out the cores, +and let them simmer in milk and water; when soft drain them, and beat +them up with a wooden fork, with half an ounce of dissolved isinglass, +white sifted sugar, sufficient to sweeten, and grated lemon peel. Put +the mixture, when perfectly smooth, into a mould, set it in ice or +a very cool place, when it is turned out it should be covered with a +fine custard. + + * * * * * + +APPLE CHARLOTTE. + +Prepare the apples as in the last receipt; but instead of using a +jelly mould, put the apples into an oval cake tin about the size of a +small side dish, four or five inches high; when cold, turn it out +and cover the apple-shape with savoy cakes placed closely together +perpendicularly; all round the top of the charlotte should be covered +with whites of eggs and sugar, beaten to a stiff froth, and placed in +small balls; a salamander should be used to crisp them and to give +a slight peach-like colour; a tasteful cook will, after crisping the +first layer of these balls, add others over them to form a sort of +cone high in the centre, that will have a pretty effect if well done. +This is an easy and elegant _entremet_, and by no means an expensive +one. + + * * * * * + +A SOUFLE. + +Take half a pint of cream and the same quantity of new milk, and warm +them together in a clean saucepan, meanwhile make a smooth batter with +four ounces of rice-flour or potatoe-flour, and stir into the milk, +let it simmer, stirring all the time till it thickens; then add two +to three ounces of fresh butter, and white sifted sugar enough to +sweeten, and a little grated lemon peel; then take it off the fire and +stir quickly to it the well-beaten yolks of six to eight eggs, butter +the pan and pour the mixture into it, when on the point of being +placed into the oven, add the whites of the eggs thoroughly whisked; +the pan must be only half filled, as it will rise very high; it must +be served immediately it is taken from the oven, even in passing to +the dinner table a salamander should be held over it, to prevent its +falling and becoming heavy and unsightly. The French flavour a soufle +with orange flour-water or vanilla, and the rind of a Seville orange +is sometimes substituted for the rind of a lemon; there are dishes +made expressly for soufles. + + * * * * * + +A PLAIN SOUFLE. + +Mix well together six ounces of rice-flour, arrowroot, or _tous les +mois_, with half a pint of milk flavoured with essence of almond +and lemon peel, or orange-flour water, let it thicken over the fire, +stirring to keep it smooth, sweeten with white sugar, add the beaten +yolks of five eggs, proceed as in the last receipt, adding the whisked +whites at the moment of placing the soufle into the oven; if +there happen to be no soufle dish, a cake-tin may make a tolerable +substitute, a paper fringed should then line the tin and a napkin +should be twisted round it when brought to table. + + * * * * * + +A SWEET OMELET. + +Beat up three or four eggs, pour them into an omelet pan, and sprinkle +a little white sugar over them while frying, hold a salamander or hot +shovel over the uppermost side of the omelet, as it must only be fried +on one side. As soon as it is set, slide it on to a hot dish, double +it, and sprinkle sugar over it and serve quickly. + + * * * * * + +OMLETTE SOUFLEE. + +Fry the eggs as directed for sweet omelet, using about five yolks and +two whites, all of which require being finely beaten and strained. +Soften a little preserve by holding it over the fire, or mixing a +little warm water with it, spread it slightly over the omelette, have +the remainder of the whites whisked to a froth with white sugar, and +lay it on the preserve; slide the omelette on to a hot dish, double +it, and serve directly. + + * * * * * + +FANCY CREAMS. + +Put into a basin a pint of cream, to which add four ounces of powdered +white sugar, and the rind of a lemon rubbed on a lump of sugar, and a +glass of sherry wine; whisk them well and mix with it half an ounce +of dissolved isinglass, beat it all thoroughly together, and fill the +mould, which should be set in ice till wanted. A table spoonful of +marasquino added to the above, will make _Italian cream_. A table +spoonful of fresh or preserved pine-apple will make _pine-apple +cream_; this will require the addition of a little lemon syrup. A +table spoonful of ratafia, will make it _ratifia cream_. + +The juice of strawberries or raspberries make fine fruit creams; +_mille fruit cream_ is made by mixing with the cream any kind of small +preserved fruit. + + * * * * * + +RICE SOUFLES. + +Boil well some fine picked rice, in pure fresh milk, sweeten and +flavour with a bay leaf, lemon peel, and a stick of cinnamon, all +which must be taken out when the rice is done, then line with it +a round dish, or soufle dish, have ready apples previously boiled, +sweetened, and beat up smoothly, place the apple lightly in the centre +rather higher in the middle than at the sides, beat up the whites of +eggs to a froth, sweeten and flavour with lemon, or noyau essence; +place it in small heaps tastefully on the apple and rice, and brown +delicately with a salamander. This soufle may have stewed cherries or +any _other_ kind of fruit, instead of the apples if preferred. + + * * * * * + +BOILED CUSTARD. + +Take a pint of milk, let it simmer in a very clean saucepan, flavor +it with lemon-peel and a bay leaf, and sweeten to taste; while gently +boiling, add the beaten yolks of four eggs, and the whites of two, +continue stirring until the custard thickens, when it must be removed +from the fire, but it is requisite to stir it until it cools. It is +necessary to strain the milk before the eggs are added, and also to +pass the eggs through a sieve. Custards are flavoured sometimes +with essence of almonds; a little cream added to the milk is a great +improvement. The above mixture may be baked in small cups; they +require a quarter of an hour to bake. + + * * * * * + +CALF'S FEET JELLY. + +Boil two feet in two quarts, or five pints of water, till the water +has half wasted; strain, and when cold, take off the fat, then put it +in the saucepan with lump sugar, lemon juice, and white wine to taste, +also a little lemon peel; when simmered a few minutes, throw in the +whites of two eggs, and their shells broken, which will have the +effect of clarifying the jelly; let it boil about ten minutes after +the scum rises, then pour it through a flannel bag or thick cloth, +dipping the bag or cloth first into hot water; pass the jelly through +it until clear, then pour it into moulds and put them in a cool place +to set. One calf's foot and one cow heel will be more economical than +two calfs feet. If fruit is desired to be in the jelly, it must be put +in when the jelly begins to stiffen in the mould. + + * * * * * + +ORANGE JELLY. + +This can be made with calf's feet or without. One quart of water will +require one ounce of isinglass, simmer the isinglass in the water, +and add the peel of one lemon and one orange; when the isinglass is +dissolved, add the juice of a lemon and six fine oranges; although the +quantity must vary according to the season for them, sweeten with half +a pound of white sugar; a Seville orange is added if there should not +be much flavor in the others. + +Lemon jelly is made in the same way; the peel of a Seville orange and +of a lemon is used, with the juice of five lemons; rather more sugar +will be required with this jelly than with the former. + +Punch jelly is made in the same way. An equal quantity of brandy +and rum, with the juice of two or three lemons is mixed with the +isinglass, which is dissolved in one pint of water, the other pint of +liquid being made up by the lemon juice and spirits. + +The essence of noyeau is reckoned to give an exquisite flavor, in this +case it requires to be coloured with a few drops of cochineal. + + * * * * * + +AN EASY TRIFLE. + +Soak three sponge cakes and half a pound of macaroons and ratafias +in one wine glass of brandy and three of white wine, lay them at the +bottom of the trifle dish, and pour over nearly a pint of thick rich +custard, made of equal portions of milk and cream, with seven eggs, +according to directions for "Custards;" before the custard is added, +jam and sweetmeats are sometimes spread over the cakes; a fine light +froth is prepared with cream and the whites of two eggs, flavored with +wine and sugar, heap it over the trifle lightly. + + * * * * * + +A STILL MORE SIMPLE ONE, AND QUICKLY MADE. + +Soak ratafia cakes in wine, with a little brandy; pour over a thick +custard, and cover with a froth of the white of eggs, flavored with +wine and sweetened with white sugar. + + * * * * * + +BLANCMANGE. + +To a quart of milk add half an ounce of fine isinglass, a handful +of beaten almonds, and two or three bitter almonds, a couple of bay +leaves, and a piece of lemon peel; when the isinglass is dissolved, +strain the milk into a basin; sweeten with four ounces of white sugar, +and pour into a mould. + +The juice of fresh strawberries is a fine addition to blancmange. + + * * * * * + +A JUDITHA. + +Put some gooseberries into a saucepan with very little water, when +they are soft, pulp them through a sieve, and add several well-beaten +yolks of eggs, and sweeten with white sugar; have ready a shape of +biscuit ice, or any other cream ice that may be preferred, take off a +thick slice of the ice from the top carefully, and without breaking, +so that it may be replaced on the ice. Scoop out a large portion of +the ice which may be mixed with the gooseberry cream, and fill the +hollow with it. Cover the shape with the piece that was removed and +serve. This is an elegant dish, the ice should be prepared in a round +mould--brown-bread ice is particularly well adapted to a Juditha. + + * * * * * + +TOURTE A LA CREME. + +This is a fashionable and delicate description of tart. A couple of +round cutters about the size of a pie plate are required for it, one +of the cutters must be about two inches smaller than the other, if +they are fluted the tourte will have a better appearance. + +Roll out some very rich puff paste to the thickness of one inch, and +cut two pieces with the larger tin cutter, then press the smaller +cutter through one of these pieces, and remove the border which will +be formed round it; this must be laid very evenly upon the other piece +of paste, and slightly pressed to make it adhere; place the tourte in +an oven to bake for about twenty minutes, then let it become cool, but +not cold, and fill it with a fine custard or with any rich preserves; +if the latter, a well whipped cream may be laid lightly over; the +pastry may be glazed if approved. + + * * * * * + +THE GROSVENOR PUDDING. + +Beat half a pound of butter with the same quantity of white sugar +until it is like cream, then beat up five eggs and add them with half +a pound of flour, a quarter of a pound of currants, two ounces of +candied orange and lemon peel cut in thin slices, and a few drops +of lemon essence; when these ingredients are well mixed and beaten, +butter a pudding tin, pour in the mixture, and bake in a moderately +quick oven. + + * * * * * + +CITRON PUDDING. + +Cut in slices two ounces of citron, the same quantity of candied +orange and lemon peel, add to them four ounces of loaf sugar, and four +of fresh butter; line a dish with fine puff paste, and beat up to a +froth the yolks of four eggs and the whites of two, fill the dish with +these ingredients and bake half an hour. The dish should be shallow. + + * * * * * + +STEWED PEARS. + +Peel, core, and quarter a dozen fine large baking pears, put them into +a stewpan with half a pound of white sugar and sufficient cold water +to cover them; with a small quantity of the peelings, a few cloves, +and a little cochineal tied up in a muslin bag, let them stew gently, +and closely covered until tender. + + * * * * * + +BAKED PEARS. + +Peel them and stick a couple of cloves in each pear, place them in a +deep dish, with half a pound of brown sugar and a little water, let +them bake till quite tender. + + * * * * * + +STEWED PIPPINS. + +Peel the pippins and stew them gently with a little water, white +sugar, and a little lemon peel; preserve is usually used to ornament +the top of each apple; they should, when done, look white and rather +transparent. + + * * * * * + +SIESTA CAKE. + +Take one pound of butter, warm it over the fire with a little milk, +put it into a pan with a pound of flour, six eggs, a quarter of a +pound of sweet almonds finely pounded, and two table-spoonsful of +yeast; beat these ingredients well together into a light paste, and +set it before the fire to rise, butter the inside of a pan, and fill +it with alternate layers of the paste, and of pounded almonds, sugar, +citron, and cinnamon; when baked, and while hot, make holes through +the siesta with a small silver skewer, taking care not to break it, +and pour over clarified sugar till it is perfectly soaked through. + + * * * * * + +A PLAIN BOLA. + +Take three quarters of a pound of white sugar, three quarters of a +pound of fresh butter, two eggs, one pound and a half of flour, three +spoonsful of yeast, a little milk, and two ounces of citron cut thin, +and mix into a light paste; bake in a tin, and strew powdered sugar +and cinnamon over it before baking. + +The above ingredients are often baked in small tins or cups. + + * * * * * + +ALMOND TEA-CAKES. + +Take half-a-pound of flour, three ounces of which are to be put aside +for rolling out the cakes, the other five ounces, with a quarter of +a pound of fresh butter, are to be set before the fire for a few +minutes; after which mix with it half a pound of sugar, a quarter of a +pound of sweet almonds, chopped fine, and a couple of eggs; make these +ingredients into thin cakes, and strew over them ground almonds and +white sugar, and bake in a brisk oven. + + * * * * * + +OIL TWIST. + +Take half a quartern of dough, one gill of the best Florence oil, +half a pound of currants, half a pound of moist sugar, and a little +cinnamon; mix all well together, make it up in the form of a twist, +and bake it. + + * * * * * + +CINNAMON CAKES. + +Rub half a pound of fresh butter into a pound of flour; work it well +together, then add half a pound of sifted sugar, and a tea-spoonful of +pounded cinnamon, and make it into a paste, with three eggs; roll it, +and cut into small cakes, with tin cutters. + + * * * * * + +RICH PLUM CAKE. + +Beat to a cream one pound of butter, to which add the same quantity of +sifted loaf sugar and of fine flour, the whites of ten eggs beaten to +a froth, and the yolks of the same also beaten till quite smooth +and thin, and half a nutmeg grated; lastly, work in one pound of +well-washed currants, half a pound of mixed candied peels, cut small, +and a glass of brandy; bake for two hours. + + * * * * * + +DIET-BREAD CAKE. + +Beat together five eggs and half a pound of white sugar, then add six +ounces of flour well dried and sifted, a little lemon-juice and grated +lemon-peel; bake in a moderate oven. + + * * * * * + +DROP CAKES. + +Mix one pound of flour with the same quantity of butter, sugar, and +currants; make these into a paste with a couple of eggs, add a little +orange flower-water and a little white wine; if the paste is likely +to be too thin when two eggs are used, omit the white of one; drop the +mixture when ready on a tin plate, and bake. + + * * * * * + +A COMMON CAKE. + +Rub in with one pound of flour six ounces of butter, and two +tea-spoonsful of yeast, to a paste; set it to rise, then mix in five +eggs, half a pound of sugar, and a quarter of a pint of milk; add +currants or carraways, and beat well together. If required to +be richer, put more butter and eggs, and add candied citron and +lemon-peel. + + * * * * * + +A SODA CAKE. + +Mix with the above ingredients one drachm of soda, which should be +rubbed in with the flour. This is reckoned a wholesome cake, and half +the quantity of eggs are required, or it may be rendered a fine rich +cake by increasing the quantity of eggs, butter, and fruit. + + * * * * * + +A PLAIN CAKE. + +Work into two pounds of dough a quarter of a pound of sugar, the same +of butter; add a couple of eggs, and bake in a tin. + + * * * * * + +A POUND CAKE. + +Beat to cream a pound of butter and a pound of sifted loaf sugar; add +eight beaten eggs, stir in lightly three quarters of a pound of flour, +beat well together, and bake for one hour in a brisk oven; currants +may be added if, approved. + + * * * * * + +BUTTER CAKES. + +Take equal quantities of butter and sugar, say half a pound of each, +grate the rind of a lemon, add a little cinnamon, and as much flour +as will form it into a paste, with spice and eggs; roll it out, cut +it into two small cakes, and bake. A piece of candied orange or +lemon-peel may be put on the top of each cake. + + * * * * * + +LITTLE SHORT CAKES. + +Rub into a pound of flour four ounces of butter, four ounces of white +powdered sugar, and two eggs; make it into a paste, roll it thin, and +cut into small cakes with tin cutters. A little orange flower-water or +sweet wine improve the flavour of these cakes. + + * * * * * + +MATSO CAKES. + +Make a stiff paste with biscuit powder and milk and water; add a +little butter, the yolk of an egg, and a little white sugar; cut into +pieces, and mould with the hand, and bake in a brisk oven. These cakes +should not be too thin. + + * * * * * + +ANOTHER SORT. + +Warm a quarter of a pint of water flavoured with a little salt, in +which mix four beaten eggs; then mix half a pound of matso flour, and +a couple of lumps of white sugar, and half a teacup of milk; mix all +well together, and bake in a tin. + + * * * * * + +FRIED MATSOS. + +Soak some of the thickest matsos in milk, taking care they do not +break; then fry in boiling fresh butter. This is a very nice method of +preparing them for breakfast or tea. + + * * * * * + +MATSO DIET BREAD. + +Simmer one pound of white sugar in a quarter of a pint of water, which +pour hot upon eight well-beaten eggs; beat till cold, when add one +pound of matso flour, a little grated lemon-peel, and bake in a +papered tin, or in small tins; the cake must be removed while hot. + + * * * * * + +A CAKE WITHOUT BUTTER. + +Beat well five eggs, to which add six ounces of flour; flavour with +beaten almonds, and add, if liked, thin slices of citron; bake in a +mould in a moderate oven. + + * * * * * + +SPONGE CAKES. + +Mix six eggs, half the whites, half a pound of lump sugar, half a +pound of flour, and a quarter of a pint of water, which should be +strongly flavoured by lemon peel having been in it for some hours; +the sugar and water should boil up together, and poured over the eggs +after they have been well whisked, which must be continued while the +liquid is being poured over them, and until they become quite thick +and white, then stir in the flour, which must be warm and dry. Pour +the mixture into a couple of cake tins, and bake in a gentle oven. + + * * * * * + +A NICE BREAKFAST CAKE. + +Make a paste of half a pound of flour, one ounce of butter, a very +little salt, two eggs, and a table-spoonful of milk, roll it out, but +first set it to rise before the fire; cut it into cakes the size of +small cheese plates, sprinkle with flour, and bake on a tin in a brisk +oven, or they may be fried in a clean frying pan; they should be cut +in half, buttered hot, and served quickly. + + * * * * * + +ICING FOR CAKES. + +Whisk half a pound of sifted white sugar, with one wine glass of +orange flower-water, and the whites of two eggs, well beaten and +strained; it must be whisked until it is quite thick and white; and +when the cake is almost cold, dip a soft camel's hair brush into it, +and cover the cake well, and set it in a cool oven to harden. + + * * * * * + +TO CLARIFY SUGAR. + +Take the proportion of one pound of sugar to half a pint of water, +with the whites of a couple of eggs; boil it up twice, then set it by +for the impurities to rise to the top, and skim it carefully. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + + +Preserving and Bottling. + +Attention and a little practice will ensure excellence in such +preserves as are in general use in private families; and it will +always be found a more economical plan to purchase the more rare and +uncommon articles of preserved fruits than to have them made at home. + +The more sugar that is added to fruit the less boiling it requires. + +If jellies be over-boiled, much of the sugar will become candied, and +leave the jelly thin. + +Every thing used for the purpose of preserving should be clean and +very dry, particularly bottles for bottled fruit. + +Fruit should boil rapidly _before_ the sugar is added, and quietly +afterwards--when preserves seem likely to become mouldy, it is +generally a sign they have not been sufficiently boiled, and it will +be requisite to boil them up again--fruit for bottling should not be +too ripe, and should be perfectly fresh; there are various methods +adopted by different cooks: the fruit may be placed in the bottles, +and set in a moderate oven until considerably shrunken, when the +bottles should be removed and closely corked; or the bottles may be +set in a pan with cold water up to the necks, placed over the fire; +when the fruit begins to sink remove them, and when cold fill up each +bottle with cold spring water, cork the bottles, and lay them on their +sides in a dry place. + +To bottle red currants--pick them carefully from the stalk, and add, +as the currants are put in, sifted white sugar; let the bottles +be well filled and rosin the corks, and keep them with their necks +downwards. + + * * * * * + +BRANDIED CHERRIES. + +Put into a large wide mouthed bottle very ripe black cherries, add to +them two pounds of loaf sugar, a quart of brandy, and a few cloves, +then bruise a few more cherries, and simmer with sugar, strain and add +the juice to the cherries in the bottle, cork closely, and keep in a +warm dry place. + + * * * * * + +QUINCE MARMALADE. + +Peel, cut into quarters, and core two pounds of sharp apples, and the +same quantity of quinces; put them into a jar, with one pound of white +sugar powdered and sprinkled over them; cover them with half a pint +of water, and put in also a little bruised cochineal tied in a muslin. +Set them in a slack oven till tender, take out the cochineal, and pulp +the fruit to a marmalade. + +Some cooks prefer boiling the sugar and water first and scalding the +fruit till tender, and then adding them to the syrup. + + * * * * * + +DAMSON MARMALADE. + +Is made in the same manner as quince, as also apricot marmalade, which +is very fine; the fruit must be stoned, and some of the kernels put in +with the fruit, which are peeled, and apricots are cut in pieces; they +should be carefully pulped through a clean sieve. + + * * * * * + +PRESERVED APRICOTS. + +Halve and pare ripe apricots, or if not quite ripe, boil them till the +skin can easily be removed. Lay them in a dish hollow downwards, +sift over them their own weight of white sugar, let them lay for some +hours, then put the fruit, with the sugar and juice into a preserving +pan, and simmer till the fruit is clear, take it out, put it carefully +into pots, and pour over the syrup. + +This receipt will serve as a guide for preserved nectarines, peaches, +plums, gages, &c. A few of the kernels should always be put in with +the fruit, as they improve the flavor of the preserve. + + * * * * * + +STRAWBERRIES PRESERVED WHOLE. + +Weigh an equal quantity of fruit and white sugar powdered, sift all +the sugar over the fruit, so that half of it shall equally be covered, +let it lay till the next day, when boil the remainder with red currant +juice, in which simmer the strawberries until the jelly hangs about +them. Put the strawberries into pots, taking care not to break them, +and pour over the syrup. + +This receipt will serve for raspberries and cherries, which make a +fine preserve. + + * * * * * + +STRAWBERRY JAM. + +Bruise gently, with the back of a wooden spoon, six pounds of fine +fresh fruit, and boil them with very little water for twenty minutes, +stirring until the fruit and juice are well mixed; then put in +powdered loaf sugar of equal weight to the fruit, and simmer half an +hour longer. If the preserve is not required to be very rich, half the +weight of sugar in proportion to the quantity of fruit may be used; +but more boiling will be requisite. By this recipe also are made +raspberry, currant, gooseberry, apricot, and other jams. + + * * * * * + +RED CURRANT JELLY. + +Strip carefully from the stems some quite ripe currants, put them into +a preserving pan, stir them gently over a clear fire until the juice +flows freely from them, then squeeze the currants and strain the juice +through a folded muslin or jelly bag; pour it into a preserving pan, +adding, as it boils, white sugar, in the proportion of one pound of +sugar to one pint of juice. + +If made with less sugar, more boiling will be required, by which much +juice and flavour are lost. A little dissolved isinglass is used by +confectioners, but it is much better without. Jams and jellies should +be poured into pots when in a boiling state. + +Jellies should be continually skimmed till the scum ceases to rise, +so that they may be clear and fine. White currant jelly and black are +made in the same manner as red. By this receipt can be made raspberry +jelly, strawberry jelly, and all other kinds. + + * * * * * + +APPLE JELLY. + +Pare, core, and cut small any kind of fine baking apples--say six +pounds in weight; put them in a preserving pan with one quart of +water; boil gently till the apples are very soft and broken, then pass +the juice through a jelly bag; when, to each pint, add half a pound of +loaf sugar, set it on the fire to boil twenty minutes, skimming it as +the scum rises; it must not be over boiled, or the colour will be too +dark. + + * * * * * + +PEAR-SYRUP OR JELLY. + +This preparation, although little known in England, forms an important +article of economy in many parts of the Continent. The pears are first +heated in a saucepan over the fire until the pulp, skins, &c., have +separated from the juice, which is then strained, and boiled with +coarse brown sugar to the thickness of treacle; but it has a far +more agreeable flavour. It is cheaper than butter or treacle, and is +excellent spread upon bread for children. + + * * * * * + +PLUM JAM. + +This is a useful and cheap preserve. Choose the large long black plum; +to each gallon of which add three pounds of good moist sugar; bake +them till they begin to crack, when, put them in pots, of a size for +once using, as the air is apt to spoil the jam. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + + +Pickling. + +The best vinegar should always be used for pickling; in all cases it +should be boiled and strained. + +The articles to be pickled should first be parboiled or soaked in +brine, which should have about six ounces of salt to one quart of +water. + +The spices used for pickling are whole pepper, long peppers, allspice, +mace, mustard-seed, and ginger, the last being first bruised. + +The following is a good proportion of spice: to one quart of vinegar +put half an ounce of ginger, the same quantity of whole-pepper and +allspice, and one ounce of mustard-seed; four shalots, and one clove +of garlic. + +Pickles should be kept secure from the air, or they soon become +soft; the least quantity of water, or a wet spoon, put into a jar of +pickles, will spoil the contents. + + * * * * * + +TO PICKLE GHERKINS AND FRENCH BEANS. + +These are, of all vegetables, the most difficult to pickle, so that +their green colour and freshness may be preserved. Choose some fine +fresh gherkins, and set them to soak in brine for a week; then drain +them, and pour over boiling vinegar, prepared with the usual spices, +first having covered them with fresh vine leaves. If they do not +appear to be of a fine green, pour off the vinegar, boil it up again, +cover the gherkins with fresh green vine leaves, and pour over the +vinegar again. French beans are pickled exactly the same. + + * * * * * + +TO PICKLE CAULIFLOWERS. + +Remove the stalks and leaves, break the flower into pieces, parboil +them in brine, then drain them, and lay them in a jar, and pour over +boiling spiced vinegar. + + * * * * * + +TO PICKLE MELON MANGOES. + +Cut the melons in half, remove the pulpy part and the seeds, soak +the halves for a week in strong brine, then fill them with the +usual spices, mustard-seed and garlic, and tie them together with +packthread; put them in jars, and pour over boiling spiced vinegar. +Large cucumbers may be pickled in the same way. + + * * * * * + +PICCALILI. + +Pickle gherkins, French beans, and cauliflower, separately, as already +directed; the other vegetables used are carrots, onions, capsicums, +white cabbage, celery, and, indeed almost any kind may be put into +this pickle, except walnuts and red cabbage. They must be cut in small +pieces, and soaked in brine, the carrots only, requiring to be boiled +in it to make them tender; then prepare a liquor as follows: into +half a gallon of vinegar put two ounces of ginger, one of whole black +pepper, one of whole allspice, and one of bruised chillies, three +ounces of shalots, and one ounce of garlic; boil together nearly +twenty minutes; mix a little of it in a basin, with two ounces of +flour of mustard and one ounce of turmeric, and stir it in gradually +with the rest; then pour the liquor over the vegetables. + + * * * * * + +TO PICKLE MUSHROOMS. + +Choose small button mushrooms, clean and wipe them, and throw them +into cold water, then put into a stewpan with a little salt, and cover +them with distilled vinegar, and simmer a few minutes. Put them in +bottles with a couple of blades or so of mace, and when cold, cork +them closely. + + * * * * * + +TO PICKLE ONIONS. + +Choose all of a size and soak in boiling brine, when cold, drain them +and put them in bottles, and fill up with hot distilled vinegar; if +they are to be _white_, use white wine vinegar; if they are to be +_brown_, use the best distilled vinegar, adding, in both cases, a +little mace, ginger, and whole pepper. + + * * * * * + +TO PICKLE WHITE AND RED CABBAGE. + +Take off the outside leaves, cut out the stalk, and shred the cabbage +into a cullender, sprinkle with salt, let it remain for twenty-four +hours, then drain it. Put it into jars, and fill up with boiling +vinegar, prepared with the usual spices; if the cabbage is red, a +little cochineal powdered, or a slice or two of beet-root is necessary +to make the pickle a fine colour; if it is white cabbage, add instead, +a little turmeric powder. + + * * * * * + +TO PICKLE WALNUTS. + +Soak in brine for a week, prick them, and simmer in brine, then let +them lay on a sieve to drain, and to turn black, after which place +them in jars, and pour over boiling spiced vinegar. + + * * * * * + +AN OLD WAY OF PICKLING CUCUMBERS. + +Cut the cucumbers in small pieces, length ways, with the peel left +on; lay them in salt for twenty-four hours, then dry the pieces with +a cloth, lay them in a deep dish, and pour over the following mixture: +some vinegar boiled with cayenne pepper, whole ginger, a little +whole pepper, and mustard seed, a few West India pickles are by some +considered an improvement. This mixture should stand till nearly cold +before covering the cucumbers, which should then be bottled. This +pickle is fit for eating a few days after it is made, and will also +keep good in a dry place as long as may be required. + + + + +CHAPTER X. + + +Receipts for Invalids. + +BEEF TEA. + +Cut one pound of fleshy beef in dice, or thin slices, simmer for a +short time without water, to extract the juices, then add, by degrees, +one quart of water, a little salt, a piece of lemon peel, and a +sprig of parsley, are the only necessary seasonings; if the broth is +required to be stronger put less water. + + * * * * * + +CHICKEN PANADA. + +Boil a chicken till rather more than half done in a quart of water, +take of the skin, cut off the white parts when cold, and pound it to +a paste in a mortar, with a small quantity of the liquor it was boiled +in, season with salt, a little nutmeg, and the least piece of lemon +peel; boil it gently, and make it with the liquor in which the fowl +has been boiled of the required consistency. It should be rather +thicker than cream. + + * * * * * + +CHICKEN BROTH. + +After the white parts have been removed for the panada, return the +rest of the chicken to the saucepan, with the liquid, add one blade +of mace, one slice only of onion, a little salt, and a piece of lemon +peel; carefully remove every particle of fat. Vermicelli is very well +adapted for this broth. + + * * * * * + +RESTORATIVE JELLIES. + +There are various kinds of simple restorative jellies suited to an +invalid, among the best are the following:-- + + * * * * * + +HARTSHORN JELLY. + +Boil half a pound of hartshorn shavings in two quarts of water over a +gentle fire until it becomes thick enough to hang about a spoon, then +strain it into a clean saucepan and add half a pint of sherry wine, +and a quarter of a pound of white sugar, clear it by stirring in the +whites of a couple of eggs, whisked to a froth; boil it for about four +or five minutes, add the juice of three lemons, and stir all together, +when it is well curdled, strain it and pour into the mould, if the +color is required to be deeper than the wine will make it, a little +saffron may be boiled in it. + + * * * * * + +BARLEY JELLY. + +Boil in an iron saucepan, one tea-cup full of pearl barley, with one +quart of cold water, pour off the water when it boils, and add another +quart, let it simmer very gently for three hours over or near a slow +fire, stirring it frequently with a wooden spoon, strain it, and +sweeten with white sugar, add the juice of a lemon, a little white +wine, and a quarter of an ounce of isinglass dissolved in a little +water, and pour it into a mould. This is a very nourishing jelly. + + * * * * * + +CAUDLE. + +Make a fine smooth gruel of grits, with a few spices boiled in it, +strain it carefully and warm as required, adding white wine and a +little brandy, nutmeg, lemon peel, and sugar, according to taste, some +persons put the yolk of an egg. + + * * * * * + +RICE CAUDLE. + +Boil half a pint of milk, add a spoonful of ground rice mixed with a +little milk till quite smooth, stir it into the boiling milk, let +it simmer till it thickens, carefully straining it, and sweeten with +white sugar. + + * * * * * + +BARLEY MILK. + +Boil half a pound of pearl barley in one quart of new milk, taking +care to parboil it first in water, which must be poured off, sweeten +with white sugar. This is better made with pearl barley than the +prepared barley. + + * * * * * + +RESTORATIVE MILK. + +Boil a quarter of an ounce of isinglass in a pint of new milk till +reduced to half, and sweeten with sugar candy. + + * * * * * + +MILK PORRIDGE. + +Make a fine gruel with new milk without adding any water, strain +it when sufficiently thick, and sweeten with white sugar. This is +extremely nutritive and fattening. + + * * * * * + +WINE WHEY. + +Set on the fire in a saucepan a pint of milk, when it boils, pour in +as much white wine as will turn it into curds, boil it up, let the +curds settle, strain off, and add a little boiling water, and sweeten +to taste. + + * * * * * + +TAMARIND WHEY. + +Boil three ounces of tamarinds in two pints of milk, strain off the +curds, and let it cool. This is a very refreshing drink. + + * * * * * + +PLAIN WHEY. + +Put into boiling milk as much lemon juice or vinegar as will turn it, +and make the milk clear, strain, add hot water, and sweeten. + + * * * * * + +ORGEAT. + +Beat three ounces of almonds with a table-spoonful of orange-flour +water, and one bitter almond; then pour one pint of new milk, and one +pint of water to the paste, and sweeten with sifted white sugar; half +an ounce of gum-arabic is a good addition for those who have a tender +chest. + + * * * * * + +IRISH MOSS. + +Boil half an ounce of carrageen or Irish moss, in a pint and a half +of water or milk till it is reduced to a pint; it is a most excellent +drink for delicate persons or weakly children. + + * * * * * + +A FINE SOFT DRINK FOR A COUGH. + +Add to a quarter of a pint of new milk warmed, a beaten new laid egg, +with a spoonful of capillaire, and the same of rose water. + + * * * * * + +A REFRESHING DRINK. + +Cut four large apples in slices, and pour over a quart of boiling +water, let them stand till cold, strain the liquor, and sweeten with +white sugar; a little lemon peel put with the apples improves the +flavour. + + * * * * * + +A VERY FINE EMMOLIENT DRINK. + +Wash and rinse extremely well one ounce of pearl barley, then put to +it one ounce of sweet almonds beaten fine, and a piece of lemon +peel, boil together till the liquor is of the thickness of cream and +perfectly smooth, then put in a little syrup of lemon and capillaire. + + * * * * * + +A COOLING DRINK IN FEVER. + +Put a little tea-sage, and a couple of sprigs of balm into a jug, with +a lemon thinly sliced, and the peel cut into strips, pour over a quart +of boiling water, sweeten and let it cool. + + + + +APPENDIX. + + +FRENCH METHOD OF MAKING COFFEE. + +Take in the proportion of one ounce of the berries to half a pint of +water, and grind them at the instant of using them. Put the powder +into a coffee biggin, press it down closely, and pour over a little +water sufficient to moisten it, and then add the remainder by degrees; +the water must be perfectly boiling all the time; let it run quite +through before the top of the percolator is taken off, it must be +served with an equal quantity of boiling milk. Coffee made in this +manner is much clearer and better flavored than when boiled, and it is +a much more economical method than boiling it. + + * * * * * + +A FRENCH RECEIPT FOR MAKING CHOCOLATE. + +Take one ounce of chocolate, cut it in small pieces, and boil it about +six or seven minutes with a small teacup full of water; stir it till +smooth, then add nearly a pint of good milk, give it another boil, +stirring or milling it well, and serve directly. If required very +thick, a larger proportion of chocolate must be used. + + * * * * * + +EGG WINE. + +Beat a fresh egg, and add it to a tumbler of white wine and water, +sweetened and spiced; set it on the fire, stir it gently one way until +it thickens; this, with toast, forms a light nutritive supper. + + * * * * * + +MULLED WINE. + +Boil a little spice, cinnamon, ginger, and cloves, in water, till the +flavor is gained, then add wine, as much as may be approved, sugar and +nutmeg; a strip or two of orange rind cut thin will be found a great +improvement. + + * * * * * + +TO MAKE PUNCH. + +To make one quart, provide two fine fresh lemons, and rub off the +outer peel upon a few lumps of sugar; put the sugar into a bowl with +four ounces of powdered sugar, upon which press the juice of the +lemons, and pour over one pint and a half of very hot water that +_has not boiled_, then add a quarter of a pint of rum, and the same +quantity of brandy; stir well together and strain it, and let it stand +a few minutes before it is drank. + +Whiskey punch is made after the same method; the juice and thin peel +of a Seville orange add variety of flavor to punch, particularly of +whiskey punch. + + * * * * * + +MILK PUNCH. + +Put into a quart of new milk the thinly pared rind of a lemon, and +four ounces of lump sugar; let it boil slowly, remove the peel, and +stir in the yolks of two eggs, previously mixed with a little cold +milk; add by degrees a tea-cup full of rum, the same of brandy; +mill the punch to a fine froth, and serve immediately in quite warm +glasses. The punch must not be allowed to boil after the eggs have +been added. + + * * * * * + +A FRENCH PLUM PIE. + +Stew one pound of fine dried French plums until tender, in water, +rather more than enough to cover, with one glass of port wine, and +four ounces of white sugar, which must however not be added until +the plums are quite tender, then pour them with the liquor into a +pie-dish, and cover with a rich puff paste, and bake. + + * * * * * + +ROASTED CHESTNUTS FOR DESSERTS. + +Chestnuts are so frequently sent to table uneatable, that we will +give the French receipt for them. They should be first boiled for five +minutes, and then finish them in a pan over the fire; they will after +the boiling require exactly fifteen minutes roasting; the skin must be +slightly cut before they are cooked. + + * * * * * + +TO ROAST PARTRIDGES AND PHEASANTS. + +They may be either _pique_ or not; partridges require roasting rather +more than half an hour, pheasants three-quarters, if small, otherwise +an hour; they are served with bread sauce. + +Partridges may be stewed as pigeons. + + * * * * * + +TO ROAST VENISON. + +Wipe the venison dry, sprinkle with salt, and cover with writing paper +rubbed with clarified fat; cover this with a thick paste made of flour +and water, round which, tie with packthread white kitchen paper, so as +to prevent the paste coming off; set the venison before a strong +fire, and baste it directly and continue until it is nearly done, then +remove the paper, paste, &c.; draw the venison nearer the fire, dredge +it with flour, and continue basting; it should only take a light +brown, and should be rather under than over-done; a large haunch +requires from three to four hours roasting, a small one not above +three. Serve with the knuckle, garnished with a fringe of white paper, +and with gravy and red currant jelly, either cold or melted, in port +wine, and served hot. + + * * * * * + +A VENISON PASTY. + +Having baked or boiled two hours in broth, with a little seasoning, +any part selected, cut the meat in pieces, season with cayenne pepper, +salt, pounded mace, and a little allspice, place it into a deep dish; +lay over thin slices of mutton fat, and pour a little strong beef +gravy flavored with port wine into the dish; cover with a thick puff +paste, and bake. + + * * * * * + +SALMON PIE. + +Cut two pounds of fine fresh salmon in slices about three quarters of +an inch thick, and set them aside on a dish, clean and scrape five or +six anchovies and halve them, then chop a small pottle of mushrooms, +a handful of fresh parsley, a couple of shalots, and a little green +thyme. Put these together into a saucepan, with three ounces of +butter, a little pepper, salt, nutmeg, and tarragon; add the juice +of a lemon, and half a pint of good brown gravy, and let the whole +simmer, gently stirring it all the time; also slice six eggs boiled +hard, then line a pie-dish with good short paste, and fill it with +alternate layers of the slices of salmon, hard eggs, and fillets of +anchovies, spreading between each layer the herb sauce, then cover the +dish with the paste, and bake in a moderately heated oven. + + * * * * * + +CHICKEN PUDDING. + +Line a basin with a good beef-suet paste, and fill it with chicken, +prepared in the following way: cut up a small chicken, lightly fry the +pieces, then place them in a stew-pan, with thin slices of _chorissa_, +or, if at hand, slices of smoked veal, add enough good beef gravy to +cover them; season with mushroom essence or powder, pepper, salt, and +a very small quantity of nutmeg, and mace; simmer gently for a quarter +of an hour, and fill the pudding; pour over part of the gravy and keep +the rest to be poured over the pudding when served in the dish. The +pudding, when filled, must be covered closely with the paste, the +ends of which should be wetted with a paste brush to make it adhere +closely. + + * * * * * + +A FINE BEEFSTEAK PIE. + +Cut two pounds of beef steaks into large collops, fry them quickly +over a brisk fire, then place them in a dish in two or three layers, +strewing between each, salt, pepper, and mushroom powder; pour over a +pint of strong broth, and a couple of table-spoonsful of Harvey-sauce; +cover with a good beef suet paste, and bake for a couple of hours. + +The most delicate manner of preparing suet for pastry is to clarify +it, and use it as butter; this will be found a very superior method +for meat pastry. + + * * * * * + +AN EASY RECEIPT FOR A CHARLOTTE RUSSE. + +Trim straitly about six ounces of savoy biscuits, so that they may fit +closely to each other; line the bottom and sides of a plain mould with +them, then fill it with a fine cream made in the following manner: put +into a stewpan three ounces of ratafias, six of sugar, the grated rind +of half an orange, the same quantity of the rind of a lemon, a small +piece of cinnamon, a wine-glass full of good maraschino, or fine +noyeau, one pint of cream, and the well beaten yolks of six eggs; stir +this mixture for a few minutes over a stove fire, and then strain it, +and add half a pint more cream, whipped, and one ounce of dissolved +isinglass. Mix the whole well together, and set it in a basin imbedded +in rough ice; when it has remained a short time in the ice fill the +mould with it, and then place the mould in ice, or in a cool place, +till ready to serve. + + * * * * * + +ANOTHER EXCELLENT RECEIPT FOR A FRUIT CHARLOTTE. + +Line a jelly mould with fine picked strawberries, which must first be +just dipped into some liquid jelly, to make them adhere closely, then +fill the mould with some strawberry cream, prepared as follows: take +a pottle of scarlet strawberries, mix them with half a pound of white +sugar, rub this through a sieve, and add to it a pint of whipped +cream, and one ounce and a half of dissolved isinglass; pour it into +the mould, which must be immersed in ice until ready to serve, and +then carefully turned out on the dish, and garnished according to +fancy. + + * * * * * + +ICED PUDDING. + +Parboil three quarters of a pound of Jordan almonds, and one quarter +of bitter almonds, remove the skins and beat them up to a paste, with +three quarters of a pound of white pounded sugar, add to this six +yolks of beaten eggs, and one quart of boiled cream, stir the whole +for a few minutes over a stove fire, strain it, and pour it into +a freezing pot, used for making ices; it should be worked with a +scraper, as it becomes set by freezing; when frozen sufficiently +firm, fill a mould with it, cover it with the lid, and let it remain +immersed in rough ice until the time for serving. + + * * * * * + +ITALIAN SALAD. + +Cut up the white parts of a cold fowl, and mix it with mustard and +cress, and a lettuce chopped finely, and pour over a fine salad +mixture, composed of equal quantities of vinegar and the finest salad +oil, salt, mustard, and the yolks of hard boiled eggs, and the yolk +of one raw egg, mixed smoothly together; a little tarragon vinegar is +then added, and the mixture is poured over the salad; the whites of +the eggs are mixed, and serve to garnish the dish, arranged in small +heaps alternately with heaps of grated smoked beef; two or three hard +boiled eggs are cut up with the chicken in small pieces and mixed with +the salad; this is a delicate and refreshing _entree_; the appearance +of this salad may be varied by piling the fowl in the centre of the +dish, then pour over the salad mixture, and make a wall of any dressed +salad, laying the whites of the eggs (after the yolks have been +removed for the mixture), cut in rings on the top like a chain. + + + + +THE TOILETTE. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + + +The Complexion. + +The various cosmetics sold by perfumers, assuming such miraculous +powers of beautifying the complexion, all contain, in different +proportions, preparations of mercury, alcohol, acids, and other +deleterious substances, which are highly injurious to the skin; and +their continual application will be found to tarnish it, and produce +furrows and wrinkles far more unsightly than those of age, beside +which they are frequently absorbed by the vessels of the skin, enter +the system, and seriously disturb the general health. + +A fine fresh complexion is best ensured by the habitual use of soft +water, a careful avoidance of all irritants, such as harsh winds, +dust, smoke, a scorching sun, and fire heat; a strict attention to +diet, regular ablutions, followed by friction, frequent bathing, +and daily exercise, active enough to promote perspiration, which, +by carrying off the vicious secretions, purifies the system, and +perceptibly heightens the brilliancy of the skin. + +These are the simple and rational means pursued by the females of +the east to obtain a smooth and perfect skin, which is there made an +object of great care and consideration. And it is a plan attended, +invariably, with the most complete success. + +Cosmetic baths, composed of milk, combined with various emollient +substances are also in frequent use among the higher classes in the +East; and we have been informed that they are gradually gaining +favour in France and England. We shall give the receipt for one, as we +received it from the confidential attendant of an English lady, who is +in the habit of using it every week, and we can confidently recommend +it to the notice of our readers. + +The luxurious ladies of ancient Rome, who sacrificed so much time and +attention to the adornment of their persons, always superintended the +preparation of their cosmetics, which were of the most innocent and +simple description--the first receipt we subjoin was one in general +use with them, and will be found efficacious in removing roughness, +or coarseness, arising from accidental causes, and imparting that +polished smoothness so essential to beauty. + + * * * * * + +AN OLD ROMAN RECEIPT FOR IMPROVING THE SKIN. + +Boil a dessert spoonful of the best wheaten flour with half a pint of +fresh asses milk; when boiling, stir in a table-spoonful of the best +honey, and a tea-spoonful of rose water, then mix smoothly, place in +small pots, and use a little of it after washing; it is better not to +make much at a time, as when stale it is liable to irritate the skin. + + * * * * * + +A VALUABLE RECEIPT FOR THE SKIN. + +Boil in half a pint of new milk a thick slice of stale bread, and a +tea-spoonful of gum arabic; when boiled, set it at a little distance +from the fire to simmer almost to a jelly, then pass it through a +folded muslin, and stir in a spoonful of oil of almonds, and the same +quantity of honey, with a pinch of common salt; when cold it will be a +stiff jelly. A little of this mixture warmed and spread upon the skin, +about the thickness of a crown piece, and left on till it cools, will +remove, like magic, all appearance of the dry scurf to which some of +the finest skins are subject. + + * * * * * + +AN EMOLLIENT PASTE. + +Blanch half a pound of sweet almonds, and two ounces of bitter +almonds, and pound them in a mortar, then make them into a paste with +rose water; this paste is a fine emollient. + + * * * * * + +A SUPERIOR OINTMENT FOR CHAPS, ROUGHNESS, ETC. + +Mix with a gill of fresh cream a spoonful of beaten almonds; when +perfectly smooth put it in toilette pots, and use as ointment for +chaps, &c.; it will keep for a week if a little spirit of camphor is +added to it. + + * * * * * + +WASH FOR PIMPLES. + +Dissolve half a dram of salt of tartar in three ounces of spirit +of wine, and apply with soft linen; this is an excellent wash for +pimples, but, as these are in general the result of some derangement +of the system, it will be wiser to discover and remedy the cause, than +merely attending to the result. + + * * * * * + +LOTION FOR REMOVING FRECKLES. + +Mix one dram of spirit of salts, half a pint of rain water, and half +a tea-spoonful of spirit of lavender, and bottle for use. This lotion +will often be efficacious in removing freckles. + + * * * * * + +COLD CREAM. + +Warm gently together four ounces of oil of almonds, and one ounce of +white wax, gradually adding four ounces of rose water; this is one of +the best receipts for making cold cream. + + * * * * * + +A FINE SOAP. + +Blanch and beat to a paste two ounces of bitter almonds, with a small +piece of camphor, and one ounce and a half of tincture of Benjamin; +add one pound of curd soap in shavings, and beat and melt well +together, and pour into moulds to get cool; the above is a very fine +soap. + + * * * * * + +LIP SALVE. + +Mix together one ounce of white wax, the same of beef marrow, with a +small piece of alkanet root tied up in muslin; perfume it according +to fancy, strain, and pot while hot; the above is a fine salve for +chapped lips. + + * * * * * + +CHESNUT PASTE FOR RENDERING THE HANDS WHITE AND SOFT. + +Boil a dozen fine large chesnuts, peeled and skinned, in milk; when +soft beat them till perfectly smooth with rose water; a tea-spoonful +of this mixture thrown into the water before washing the hands renders +them beautifully white and soft. + + * * * * * + +SUPERIOR MILK OF ROSES. + +Boil fresh rose leaves in asses milk, and bottle it off for immediate +use; it will be found far more efficacious than the milk of roses sold +by perfumers. + + * * * * * + +AN EXCELLENT RECEIPT FOR LIP SALVE. + +Melt one ounce of spermacetti, soften sufficiently with oil of +almonds, color it with two or three grains of powdered cochineal, and +pour while warm into small toilet pots. We mention the cochineal to +colour the salve, it being usual to make lip salve of a pale rose +colour, but we should consider it far more healing in its effects +without it. + + * * * * * + +A COSMETIC BATH. + +Boil slowly one pound of starwort in two quarts of water, with half a +pound of linseed, six ounces of the roots of the water lily, and one +pound of bean meal; when these have boiled for two hours, strain the +liquor, and add to it two quarts of milk, one pint of rose water, and +a wine glass of spirits of camphor; stir this mixture into a bath of +about ninety-eight degrees. + + * * * * * + +SUPERIOR COLD CREAM. + +Melt together one drachm of spermacetti, the same quantity of white +wax, and two fluid ounces of oil of almond; while these are still +warm, beat up with them as much rose water as they will absorb. This +is a very healing kind of cold cream. The usual cold cream sold by +perfumers is nothing more than lard, beat up with rose-water, which is +heating and irritating to the skin. + + * * * * * + +PASTE FOR RENDERING THE SKIN SUPPLE AND SMOOTH (AN ENGLISH RECEIPT). + +Mix half a pound of mutton or goose fat well boiled down and beaten up +well with two eggs, previously whisked with a glass of rose-water; add +a table-spoonful of honey, and as much oatmeal as will make it into a +paste. Constant use of this paste will keep the skin delicately soft +and smooth. + + * * * * * + +TO REMOVE TAN. + +Cut a cucumber into pieces after having peeled it, and let the juice +drain from it for twelve hours, pour it off, and add to it an equal +quantity of orange flower-water, with a small piece of camphor +dissolved in a wine-glass of soft water, bottle the mixture, and wash +the parts that have been exposed to the sun two or three times in the +twenty-four hours. + + * * * * * + +EAU DE COLOGNE. + +Mix together one ounce of essence of bergamot, the same quantity of +essence of lemon, lavender, and orange flower-water, two ounces of +rosemary and honey-water, with one pint of spirits of wine; let the +mixture stand a fortnight, after which put it into a glass retort, the +body of which immerse in boiling water contained in a vessel placed +over a lamp (a coffee lamp will answer the purpose), while the beak of +the retort is introduced into a large decanter; keep the water boiling +while the mixture distils into the decanter, which should be covered +with cold wet cloths, in this manner excellent Eau de Cologne may be +obtained at a very small expense. + + * * * * * + +TRANSPARENT SOAP. + +Put into a bottle, windsor soap in shavings, half fill it with spirits +of wine, set it near the fire till the soap is dissolved, when, pour +it into moulds to cool. + + * * * * * + +MILK OF ROSES. + +Put into a bottle one pint of rose-water, one ounce of oil of almonds; +shake well together, then add fifty drops of oil of tartar. + + * * * * * + +HUNGARY WATER. + +Put into a bottle one pint of spirits of wine, one gill of water, and +half an ounce of oil of rosemary; shake well together. + + * * * * * + +LAVENDER WATER. + +Take three drachms of English oil of lavender, spirits of wine +one pint; shake in a quart bottle, then add one ounce of orange +flower-water, one ounce of rose-water, and four ounces of distilled +water; those who approve of the musky odour which lavender water +sometimes has, may add three drachms of essence of ambergris or musk. + + * * * * * + +ESSENCE OF ROSES. + +Put into a bottle the petals of the common rose, and pour upon them +spirits of wine, cork the bottle closely, and let it stand for three +months, it will then be little inferior to otto of roses. + + * * * * * + +ESSENCE OF LAVENDER. + +Is prepared according to the above recipe, the lavender being +substituted for the roses. + + * * * * * + +SCENT BAGS. + +Small bags filled with iris root diffuses a delicate perfume over +drawers, &c. A good receipt for a scent-bag is as follows: two pounds +of roses, half a pound of cyprus powder, and half a drachm of essence +of roses; the roses must be pounded, and with the powder put into silk +bags, the essence may be dropped on the outside. + + * * * * * + +ESSENCE OF MUSK. + +Mix one dram of musk with the same quantity of pounded loaf sugar; add +six ounces of spirits of wine; shake together and pour off for use. + + * * * * * + +OIL OF ROSES. + +A few drops of otto of roses dissolved in spirits of wine forms the +_esprit de rose_ of the perfumers--the same quantity dropped in sweet +oil forms their _huile antique a la rose_. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + + +The Hair. + +All stimulating lotions are injurious to the hair; it should be cut +every two months: to clean it, there is nothing better than an egg +beaten up to a froth, to be rubbed in the hair, and afterwards washed +off with elder flower-water; but clear soft water answers every +purpose of cleanliness, and is far better for the hair than is usually +imagined. + +One tea-spoonful of honey, one of spirits of wine, one of rosemary, +mixed in half a pint of rose-water, or elder flower-water, and the +same quantity of soft water, forms an excellent lotion for keeping the +hair clean and glossy. + +A fine pomatum is made by melting down equal quantities of mutton suet +and marrow, uncooked, and adding a little sweet oil to make it of a +proper consistency, to which any perfume may be added. If essence of +rosemary is the perfume used, it will be found to promote the growth +of the hair. Rum and oil of almonds will be of use for the same +purpose. A warm cloth to rub the hair after brushing imparts a fine +shiny smoothness. + +As a bandoline to make the hair set close, the following will be found +useful and cheap: take a cupful of linseed, pour over it sufficient +boiling water to over, let it stand some hours, and then pour over +three table spoonsful of rose-water; stir the seeds well about, and +strain it off into a bottle and it will be ready for use; or take a +tea-spoonful of gum arabic with a little Irish moss, boil them in half +a pint of water till half is boiled away; strain and perfume. + +To remove superfluous hairs, the following receipt will be found +effectual, although requiring time and perseverance: mix one ounce of +finely powdered pumice-stone with one ounce of powdered quick-lime, +and rub the mixture on the part from which the hair is to be removed, +twice in twenty-four hours; this will destroy the hair, and is an +innocent application. In the East, a depilatory is in use, which +we subjoin, but which requires great care in employing, as the +ingredients are likely to injure the skin if applied too frequently, +or suffered to remain on too long: mix with one ounce of quick-lime, +one ounce of orpiment; put the powder in a bottle with a glass +stopper; when required for use, mix it into a paste with barley-water; +apply this over the part, and let it remain some minutes, then gently +take it off with a silver knife, and the hairs will be found perfectly +removed; the part should then be fomented to prevent any of the powder +being absorbed by the skin, and a little sweet oil or cold cream +should be wiped over the surface with a feather. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + + +Teeth. + +Water is not always sufficient to clean the teeth, but great caution +should be used as to the dentifrices employed. + +Charcoal, reduced to an impalpable powder, and mixed with an equal +quantity of magnesia, renders the teeth white, and stops putrefaction. + +Also two ounces of prepared chalk, mixed with half the quantity of +powdered myrrh, may be used with confidence. + +Or, one ounce of finely powdered charcoal, one ounce of red kino, and +a table spoonful of the leaves of sage, dried and powdered. + +A most excellent dentifrice, which cleans and preserves the teeth, +is made by mixing together two ounces of brown rappee snuff, one of +powder of bark, and one ounce and a half of powder of myrrh. When the +gums are inclined to shrink from the teeth, cold water should be used +frequently to rinse the mouth; a little alum, dissolved in a pint of +water, a tea-cup full of sherry wine, and a little tincture of myrrh +or bark, will be found extremely beneficial in restoring the gums to a +firm and healthy state. This receipt was given verbally by one of our +first dentists. + +Every precaution should be used to prevent the accumulation of +tartar upon the teeth; this is best done by a regular attention to +cleanliness, especially during and after illness. "Prevention is +always better than cure," and the operation of scaling often leaves +the teeth weak and liable to decay. + +Acids of all sorts are injurious to the teeth, and very hot or cold +liquids discolour them. + +The best toothpick is a finely-pointed stick of cedar. Toothbrushes +should not be too hard, and should be used, not only to the teeth, +but to the gums, as friction is highly salutary to them. To polish the +front teeth, it is better to use a piece of flannel than a brush. + +Toothache is a very painful malady, and the sufferer often flies +to the most powerful spirits to obtain relief; but they afford only +temporary ease, and lay the foundation for increased pain. A poultice +laid on the gum not too hot takes off inflammation, or laudanum +and spirits of camphor applied to the cheek externally; or mix with +spirits of camphor an equal quantity of myrrh, dilute it with warm +water, and hold it in the mouth; also a few drops of laudanum and oil +of cloves applied to decayed teeth often affords instantaneous relief. + +Powdered cloves and powdered alum, rubbed on the gum and put in the +diseased tooth will sometimes lessen the pain. + +Toothache often proceeds from some irritation in the digestive organs +or the nervous system: in such cases pain can only be removed by +proper medical treatment. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + + +Hands. + +Nothing contributes more to the elegance and refinement of a lady's +appearance than delicate hands; and it is surprising how much it is +in the power of all, by proper care and attention, to improve +them. Gloves should be worn at every opportunity, and these should +invariably be of kid; silk gloves and mittens, although pretty and +tasteful, are far from fulfilling the same object. The hands should +be regularly washed in tepid water, as cold water hardens, and renders +them liable to chap, while hot water wrinkles them. All stains of ink, +&c., should be immediately removed with lemon-juice and salt: every +lady should have a bottle of this mixture on her toilette ready +prepared for the purpose. The receipts which we have already given +as emollients for the skin are suitable for softening the hands and +rendering them smooth and delicate. The nails require daily attention: +they should be cut every two or three days in an oval form. A piece of +flannel is better than a nail-brush to clean them with, as it does not +separate the nail from the finger. + +When dried, a little pummice-stone, finely powdered, with powdered +orris-root, in the proportion of a quarter of a tea-spoonful to a +tea-spoonful of the former, mixed together, and rubbed on the nails +gently, gives them a fine polish, and removes all inequalities. + +A piece of sponge, dipped in oil of roses and emery, may be used for +the same purpose. + +When the nails are disposed to break, a little oil or cold cream +should be applied at night. + +Sand-balls are excellent for removing hardness of the hands. Palm +soap, Castille soap, and those which are the least perfumed, should +always be preferred. Night-gloves are considered to make the hands +white and soft, but they are attended with inconvenience, besides +being very unwholesome; and the hands may be rendered as white as the +nature of the complexion will allow, by constantly wearing gloves in +the day-time, and using any of the emollients we have recommended for +softening and improving the skin. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + + +Dress. + +In dress, simplicity should be preferred to magnificence: it is +surely more gratifying to be admired for a refined taste, than for an +elaborate and dazzling splendour;--the former always produces pleasing +impressions, while the latter generally only provokes criticism. + +Too costly an attire forms a sort of fortification around a woman +which wards off the admiration she might otherwise attract. The true +art of dress is to make it harmonize so perfectly with the style +of countenance and figure as to identify it, as it were, with the +character of the wearer. + +All ornaments and trimmings should be adopted sparingly; trinkets and +jewellery should seldom appear to be worn merely for display; they +should be so selected and arranged as to seem necessary, either for +the proper adjustment of some part of the dress, or worn for the sake +of pleasing associations. + +Fashion should never be followed too closely, still less should +a singularity of style be affected; the prevailing mode should be +modified and adapted to suit individual peculiarity. The different +effect of colours and the various forms of dress should be duly +considered by every lady, as a refined taste in dress indicates a +correct judgment. + +A short stout figure should avoid the loose flowing robes and ample +drapery suitable for tall slight women; while these again should +be cautious of adopting fashions which compress the figure, give +formality, or display angles. The close-fitting corsage and tight +sleeve, becoming to the short, plump female, should be modified with +simple trimmings, to give fullness and width across the shoulders and +bust, and a rounded contour to the arms. Flounces and tucks, which +rise high in the skirt, are not suitable to short persons; they cut +the figure and destroy symetry. To tall women, on the contrary, +they add grace and dignity. Dresses made half high are extremely +unbecoming; they should either be cut close up to the throat or low. +It is, however, in bad taste to wear them very low on the shoulders +and bosom: in youth, it gives evidence of the absence of that modesty +which is one of its greatest attractions; and in maturer years it is +the indication of a depraved coquetry, which checks the admiration it +invites. + +It is always requisite for a lady to exert her own taste in the choice +of form, colour, and style, and not leave it to the fancy of her +dress-maker, as although the person she employs may be eminently +qualified for her profession, a lady who possesses any discernment can +best judge of what is suitable to her style of countenance and figure. + +In dress there should be but one prevailing colour, to which all +others should be adapted, either by harmonising with it, or by +contrast; in the latter case the relieving color should be in small +quantity, or it would overpower the other in effect, as a general +rule, sombre negative colours show off a woman to the greatest +advantage, just as the beauties of a painting are enhanced by being +set in a dull frame; still, there are some occasions with which the +gayer tints accord better, and as propriety and fitness are matters of +high consideration, the woman of taste must be guided in the selection +of her apparel by the knowledge of the purport for which it is +intended, always endeavouring to fix on that shade of colour which +best becomes her complexion. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + + +Effect of Diet on Complexion. + +As the color of the skin depends upon the secretions of the _rete +mucuosum_, or skin, which lies immediately beneath the _epedirmis_, or +scarf skin, and as diet is capable of greatly influencing the nature +of these secretions, a few words respecting it may not be here +entirely misplaced. + +All that is likely to produce acrid humours, and an inflamatory or +impoverished state of the blood, engenders vicious secretions, which +nature struggles to free herself from by the natural outlet of the +skin, for this organ is fitted equally, to _excrete and secrete_. +Fermented and spirituous liquors, strong tea and coffee should +be avoided, for they stimulate and exhaust the vital organs, and +interrupt the digestive functions, thereby producing irritation of +the internal linings of the stomach, with which the skin sympathises. +Water, on the other hand, is the most wholesome of all beverages, it +dilutes and corrects what is taken into the stomach, and contributes +to the formation of a perfect chyle. + +Milk is very nutritious, it produces a full habit of body, and +promotes plumpness, restores vigour and freshness, besides possessing +the property of calming the passions, and equalising the temper. + +Eggs are, in general, considered bilious, except in a raw state, when +they are precisely the reverse; this is a fact, now so universally +acknowledged, that they are always recommended in cases of jaundice +and other disorders of the bile. + +Spices, and highly seasoned meats import a dryness to the skin, and +render the body thin and meagre. + +Animal food taken daily requires constant exercise, or it is apt to +render the appearance coarse and gross. It should be combined with +farinaceous and vegetable food, in order to correct the heating +effects of a concentrated animal diet. + +Excess as to quantity should be strictly guarded against. When the +stomach is overloaded it distributes a badly digested mass throughout +the system, which is sure to be followed by irritation and disease, +and by undermining the constitution, is one of the most certain +methods of destroying beauty. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + + +Influence of the Mind as regards Beauty. + +All passions give their corresponding expression to the countenance; +if of frequent occurrence they mark it with lines as indelible as +those of age, and far more unbecoming. To keep these under proper +_control_ is, therefore, of high importance to beauty. Nature has +ordained that passions shall be but passing acts of the mind, which, +serving as natural stimulants, quicken the circulation of the blood, +and increase the vital energies; consequently, when tempered and +subdued by reason, they are rather conducive than otherwise, both to +beauty and to health. + +It is the _habitual frame of mind, the hourly range of thought_ which +render the countenance pleasing or repulsive; we should not forget +that "the face is the index of the mind." + +The exercise of the intellect and the development of noble sentiments +is as essential for the perfection of the one, as of the other, +fretful, envious, malicious, ill humoured feelings must never be +indulged by those who value their personal appearance, for the +existence of these chronic maladies of the mind, _cannot be +concealed_. + +"On peut tromper un autre, mais pas tous les autres." + +In the same way candour, benevolence, pity, and good temper, exert the +most happy influence over the whole person;--shine forth in every +look and every movement with a fascination which wins its way to all +hearts. + +Symmetry of form is a rare and exquisite gift, but there are other +conditions quite as indispensable to beauty. Let a woman possess but +a very moderate share of personal charms, if her countenance is +expressive of intellect and kind feelings, her figure buoyant with +health, and her attire distinguished by a tasteful simplicity, she +cannot fail to be eminently attractive, while ill health--a silly or +unamiable expression, and a vulgar taste--will mar the effect of form +and features the most symetrical. A clever writer has said, "Beauty +is but another name for that expression of the countenance which is +indicative of sound health, intelligence, and good feeling." If +so, how much of beauty is attainable to all! Health, though often +dependant upon circumstances beyond our control, can, in a great +measure, be improved by a rational observance of the laws which nature +has prescribed, to regulate the vital functions. + +Over intellect we have still more power. It is capable of being so +trained as to approach daily nearer and nearer to perfection. The +thoughts are completely under our own guidance and must never be +allowed to wander idly or sinfully; they should be encouraged to +dwell on subjects which elevate the mind and shield it from the petty +trivialities which irritate and degrade it. + +Nothing is more likely to engender bitter thoughts than idleness and +_ennui_. Occupations should be selected with a view to improve and +amuse; they should be varied, to prevent the lassitude resulting from +monotony; serious meditations and abstract studies should be relieved +by the lighter branches of literature; music should be assiduously +cultivated; nothing more refines and exalts the mind; not the mere +performance of mechanical difficulties, either vocal or instrumental, +for these, unless pursued with extreme caution, enlarge the hand and +fatigue the chest, without imparting the advantages we allude to. + +Drawing is highly calculated to enhance feminine beauty; the thoughts +it excites are soothing and serene, the gentle enthusiasm that is felt +during this delightful occupation not only dissipates melancholy +and morbid sensibility, but by developing the judgment and feeling, +imparts a higher tone of character to the expression of the +countenance. + +Indolent persons are apt to decide that they have "no taste" for such +or such pursuits, forgetting that tastes may be acquired by the mind +as well as by the palate, and only need a judicious direction. + +Frivolous employment, and vitiated sentiments would spoil the +finest face ever created. Body and mind are, in fact, so intimately +connected, that it is futile, attempting to embellish the one, while +neglecting the other, especially as the highest order of all beauty +is _the intellectual._ Let those females, therefore, who are the +most solicitous about their beauty, and the most eager to produce +a favourable impression, cultivate the _moral, religious, and +intellectual attributes_, and in this advice consists the recipe for +the finest cosmetic in the world, viz.--CONTENT. + + + + +INDEX. + +Almondegos soup, 11. +Almond pudding, 117. + rice, 126. + paste, 127. + tea-cakes, 152. +Amnastich, 83. +Apple charlotte, 139, 140. + jelly, 166. + sauce, 23. +Apricot jam, 165. + preserve, 164. + marmalade, 163. +Arrowroot pudding, 136. +Asparagus sauce, 28. + soup, 12. + +Barley milk, 178. + jelly, 177. + soup, 14. +Batter pudding, 135. +Beans, French, to stew with oil, 93. + _au beurre_, 96. + to pickle, 170. +Bechamel, 32. +Beef, rump, to stew, 53. + a la mode, or sour meat, 53, 54. + of, an olio, 52. +Beef, stewed with French beans, 54. + with white dried peas and beans, and celery, 56. + collops, 57. + cold roast, to warm, 57. + steak, with chesnuts, 58. + steak, stewed simply, 58. + hash of, 57. + brisket of, with vegetables, 59, 60. + brisket, with onions and raisins, 59. + tea, 171. + ragout of, 60. + steak pie, 188. + to salt, 61. + to spice, 61. + to smoke, 62. + _Blanc_, 51. +Blanching, directions for, 57. +Blancmange, 147. +Blanquette of veal, 70, 71. + of chicken, 71. +Boiling, rules for, 49. +Bola d'Amor, 114. + Toliedo, 115, 116. + d'Hispaniola, 116. +Bola, plain, 152. + small do. 152. +Bottling fruit, rules for, 161. +Braising, directions for, 52. +Brandy cherries, 162. +Bread crumbs for frying, 36. + and butter pudding, 130. + fruit-tart, 128. + pudding, 135. + sauce, 22. +Brocali, stewed, 93. +Broiling, directions on, 50. +Broth, chicken, 176. +Browned bread crumbs, 30. + flour, for colouring and thickening soups, sauces, and gravies, 30. +Butter cakes, 156. + melted, 25. + oiled, 24. + +Cabbage and rice stewed, 94. + red, stewed, 96. + to pickle, 172. +Cakes, observations respecting, 113, 114. + almond tea, 152. + rich plum, 153, 154. + siesta, 151. + sponge, 158. + pound, 156. + soda, 155. + diet bread, 154. + for Passover, 158. + a bola, 152. + a very plain, 155. + a plain lunch, without butter, 156. + breakfast, 159. + drop, 154. + cinnamon, 153. + butter, 156. + short, 156. + _matso_, 157. + icing for, 159. +Calf's head to stew, 64. + feet, stewed with Spanish sauce, 64. + au fritur, 65. + stewed simply, 65, 66. + jelly, 145. +Caper sauce, 27, 19. +Carrots, _au beurre_, 95. +Carp, stewed, 41, 42. +Cassereet, a, 81. +Casserole au riz, 101. +Caudle, 178. + rice, 178. +Cauliflower, to pickle, 170. +Celery, stewed with mutton, 75 +Celery sauce, 19. +Charlotte Russe, 189. + a fruit, 190. + apple, 139. +Chestnuts, stewed with steaks, 58. + to roast, 185. +Cheesecakes, 108. + savoury, 98. +Cherry batter pudding, 131. + preserved whole, 165. +Chejados, 119. +Chicken broth, 176. + pudding, 188. + panado, 175. +Chocolate, to make, 182. +Chorissa, 62. + omelette, 109. + stewed with rice and fowl, 83. +Cinnamon cakes, 153. +Citron pudding, 150. +Clarify to, suet, 52. + sugar, 160. +Cocoa nut pudding, 120. + doce, 120. +Coffee, French method of making, 120. +Collard veal, 67. +Collops, beef, 57. +College pudding, 131. +Colouring for soups and sauces, 2, 3, 30, 31. +Commeen, 55. +Consomme, 1, 2, 3. +Cooling, drink a, in fever, 94. +Creams, directions for making, 143, 189. +Creme brun, 128. +Cressy soup, 7. +Croquettes, 100. +Cucumbers, to pickle, 173. + sauce, 29. + mango, 94. +Cumberland pudding, 131. +Currant jelly, 165, 166. + jam, 165. +Curried veal, 68. + chicken, 68. +Custard pudding, 135. +Custards, 144. +Cutlets, veal, 68. + a la Francaise, 69. + in white sauce, 69. + in brown sauce, 70. + mutton, 78, 79. + lamb, with cucumbers, 81. + +Damson marmalade, 163. +Descaides, 89. +Devilled biscuits, 98. +Diet bread cake, 154. + for Passover, 158. +Doce, cocoa nut, 120. +Drink for a cough, 180. + an emollient, 181. + a cooling, in fever, 181. + a refreshing, 181. +Drop cakes, 154. +Duck stewed with peas, 85. + seasoning for, 27. +Dutch, stew of fish, 40. +Dutch toast, 87. + +Edgings of Potatoes, 91. + of rice, 91. +Egg paste, 105. + wine, 183. + balls, 36. + marmalade, 121. + sauce, 18. + English, do., 28. +Eggs, scallopped, 98. + savoury, 98. + _See_ omelette. +Escobeche, 34. + +Farcie, _see_ forcemeat. +Fish, directions for boiling and broiling, 37. + fried in oil, 38. + in butter, 39. + a soup, 15. + sauce without butter, 21. + sauce to bottle, 22. + stewed white, 39, + brown, 41. + stewed in Dutch fashion, 40. + salad, 44, 40. + fritters, 47. + omelette, 47. + scallopped, 58. + baked haddocks, 43. + herrings, 43, 44. + mackarel, 44. + escobeche, 34. + stewed carp, 41, 42. + of, fillets, 42. + water souchy, 41. + impanado, 55. + white bait, 45, 46. + fricandelle, 46. +Fondeaux, 102. +Fondu, 102. +Forcemeat, directions for making, 33. + for risoles, fritters, balls, &c., 33, 34. + of fish for croquettes, &c., 35. + for dressing fish fillets, 35. + for dressing cutlets, 35, 36. +Fowls, a savoury way of roasting, 82. + forced and boned, 82. + boiled, 83. + blanquette of, 85. + curried, 84. + stewed with rice, 83. + a nice way of dressing with sweetbread, 84. + broiled with mushrooms, 86. +Fricandelle, Dutch, 46. +Fricandelles, 72. +Fricandeux, a, white, 62. + brown,63. + a, superior receipt, 67. +Fricassee of veal, 63. + of sweetbreads, 74. +Fritters of rice, 125. + of French roll, 123. +Fruit pies, 106. +Frying, directions for, 50. + +Gateau de tours, 138. + de pomme, 139. +Geese, seasoning for, 27. +German puffs, 117. +Gherkins, to pickle, 170. +Giblet soup, 14. + stewed, 86. + pie, 108. +Glazing, directions for, 51. +Gloucester jelly, 177. +Gooseberry jam, 165. +Gravy soup, 3. +Gravy, a rich brown, 17. + for roast fowls, 18. + another for ditto, 18. + ditto, when there is no meat to make it with, 20. + to draw strong, 24. +Green, colouring for soups, &c., 31. +Grimstich, 122. +Grosvenor pudding, 149. + +Haddocks, to roast or bake, 33. +Haman's fritters, 123. +Harricot, a, 76. +Hartshorn jelly, 176. +Hash a, to make, 57. +Herbs, savoury, for seasoning soups, &c., 27. +Herrings smoked, a nice way of dressing, 43. + +Iced pudding, 190. +Iceing for cakes, 159. +Impanado, 45. +Irish stew, 77. + moss, 180. +Italian salad, 191. +Italian cream, 143. + +Jams, to make, 165. +Jaumange, 138. +Jerusalem artichokes, 96. +Jelly, savoury, 20. +Jellies, calf's-feet, 145. + orange, 146. + lemon, 146. + hartshorn, 176. +Jellies, Gloucester, 177. + punch, 146. + bread, 177. + noyeau, 146. + apple, 166. + barley, 177. + currant, 165. +Juditha, a, 148. +Julienne, soup a la, 5. + +Kimmel meat, 54. +Kugel and commeen, 55. + +Lamb, stewed with sprew, 79. + with peas, 80. + cutlets and cucumbers, 80, 81. + shoulder of, a nice receipt for, 81. +Lamplich, 124. +Larding, 51. +Lemon tarts, 126. + jelly, 146. +Luction, 118. + +Maccaroni with cheese, 99. + pudding, 136. +Mackarel, baked, 44. +Macrotes, 121. +Malagatany soup, 4. + English do. 5. +Maigre soup, 12. +Maintenont cutlets, 76. +Marmalades, 163. +Melon mango, 171. +Milk, barley, 179. + porridge, 178. + restorative, 179. +Mince meat, 121. + pies, 110. +Minced veal, 71. +Miroton, a, 71, 72. +Mint sauce, 23. +Mock turtle soup, 3. +Melina pie, 109. +Matso cakes, 157. + fried, 157. + diet bread, 158. +Mushrooms _au naturel_, 96. + large flap, 97. + to pickle, 172. + sauce, 25. +Mutton, a French receipt for roasting, 75. + stewed with celery, 75. + a simple way of dressing, 76. + cutlets maintenant, 76. + a haricot, 76. + Irish stew, 77. + a l'Hispaniola, 77. + collops, 77, 78. + cutlets, 78, 79. + smoked, 79. + +Nouilles paste, 105. +Noyeau cream, 143. + jelly, 146. + +Oil twist, 153. +Olio, 52. +Omelet sweet, 142. + soufle, 142. + savoury, 99. + chorissa, 109. +Onion sauce, 23. + to pickle, 172. +Orange jelly, 146. +Orgeat, 180. +Ox-tail soup, 16. + +Palestine soup, 8. + salad, 99. +Pancakes, 129. + for children, 129. +Parsley crisped, 30. +Parsley fried, 31. +Partridges, 185. +Passover pudding, 133. + ditto, 133. + ditto, 133. + fritters, 134. + a superior kind, 134. + ditto with currants, 134. + balls for soup, 9,10. + diet bread, 158. + cakes, 157. +Pastry, directions for making, 103. + plain puff paste, 104. + rich, ditto, 105. + short crust, 105. + nouilles or egg paste, 105. + beef dripping paste, 106. + glaize for, 106. +Patty meats, 110. +Peas-soup, summer, 13, 14. + winter, 13. + stewed with oil, 93. +Pears to stew, 150 + to bake, 151. + syrup of, 160. +Pepper pot, 6. +Pheasants, to roast, 185. +Piccalili, 171. +Pickling, rules for, 169. +Pie a fruit, 106. + giblet, 108. + a savoury, 107 + a ditto for persons of delicate digestion, 88. + a beef steak, 188. + a French plum, 185. + salmon, 187. +Pigeons, 86. +Pippins, stewed, 151, +Pique, _see_ larding. +Plum cake, 153. + jam, 167. + pudding, 132. + _Poelee_, 51. +Pommes frites, 13. +Porridge, 179. +Potatoes, to mash, 91. + balls, 91. + wall, 91, 92. + shavings, 92. + soup of, 7. +Poultry cold, to warm, 85. +Pound cake, 156. +Prenesas, 118. +Preparation for cutlets, 36. +Preserving, observations on, 161. +Puddings, directions for, 112. + plum, 132. + millet, arrowroot, ground rice, tapioca, sago, 136. + Passover for, 133. + iced, 190. + almond, 117. + cocoa nut, 120. + citron, 150. + Grosvenor, 149. + Yorkshire, 136. + suet, 137. + bread, 135. + rice, 130. + custard, 135. + batter, 135. + cherry batter, 131. + ratafia, 132. + college, 131. + Cumberland, 131. + rich bread and butter, 130. +Punch, 183. + jelly, 144. + whiskey, 184. + milk, 184. +_Puree_ of vegetables, 96. + +Quince marmalade, 163. + +Rachael, a, 118. +Ragout of beef, 60. +Ramakins, 100. +Raspberries preserved whole, 165. + jam, 165. + jelly, 166. +Ratafia pudding, 132. +Restorative milk, 176. + jelly, 179. +Rice fritters, 125. + pudding for children, 130. + fruit tart, 127. + soufle, 143. + custard, 128. + caudle, 178. + wall, 91. +Risoles, 33, 34, 100. +Roasting, rules for, 50. +Rump of beef stewed, 53. +Russe, a charlotte, 139. + +Salmon cutlets, 42. + pie, 187. +Sauces, piquante, 17. + egg, 18. + English, do., 28. + celery, 19. + tomato, 19. + for steaks, 21. + without butter for fish, 21. + for fish to keep, 22. + to serve with ducks, 22. + oiled butter, 24. + bread, 22. + apple, 23. + onions, 23. + melted butter, 25. + mushroom, 24. + white, to throw over vegetables, 26. + for puddings without butter, 26. + Robert, 26. + caper, 27, 19. + a la Tartare, 28. + for roast mutton, 28. + asparagus, 28. + cucumber, white, 29. + brown, 29. + veloute, 31. + bechamel, 32. +Sauer krout, 56. +Savoury jelly, 20. + herb powder, 27. +Seasoning for poultry, 27. +Siesta, a, 151. +Soda cake, 155. +Sopa d'ora, 119. +Soufle, 140, 141. + omelette, 142. + rice, 143. +Soups, almondegos, a superior white soup, 11. + asparagus, 12. + cressy, 7. + malagatany, 4. + English do., 5. + gravy, 3. + barley, 14. + carrot, 8. + giblet, 14. + Julienne, 5. + mock turtle, 3. + matso, 9. + Palestine, 8. + de poisson, or fish, 15. + ox tail, 16. + peas, summer, 13. + winter, 14. + potatoe, 7. + a la turque, 6. + vermicelli, 9. + white, a, 9. + tomato, 10. + vegetable, or French, 11. +Spanish beans and peas, 29. +Spinach a la Francaise, 92. +Sponge cakes, 158. +Spring dish, a, 95. +Staffin, 125. +Steak stewed with chestnuts, 58. + stewed simply, 58. +Stewing, rules for, 50. +Stock--see _consomme_. +Strawberries preserved whole, 164. + jam, 165. + jelly, 166. +Suet to clarify, 52. +Sugar to clarify, 160. +Sweetbreads roasted, 73. + stewed white, 73. + brown, 74. + fricasseed, 73. + +Tart de moy, 122. +Tartlets, 107. +Tendons of veal, 66. +Thickening for soups and sauces, 2. +Timbale of maccaroni, 87. +Tomato soup, 10. + sauce, 17. + dry soup, a, 97. +Tourte a la creme, 149. +Trifle, an easy one, 137. + a still more simple and quickly made, 147. +Truffle sauce, 20. +Turke soup, a la, 6. +Turkey boned and forced, 82. + +Veal, a white fricandeaux of, 62. + brown, do. 63. + tendons of, 66. + fricandeaux, 67. + collard, 67. + curried, 68. + cutlets, 68, 69. 70. + blanquette of, 70. + minced, 71. + stuffing, 34. + miroton of, 71, 72. + smoked, 73. +Vegetable or French soup, 11. + observations on, 90. +Veloute, 31. +Venison to roast, 186. + a pasty, 186. +Vermicelli pudding, 136. + soup, 9. +Vol-au-vent, 109. + de fruit, 110. + petits, 110. + +Waflers, 126. +Walnuts, to pickle, 173. +Water souchy, 41. +Whey wine, 179. + tamarind, 179. + plain, 180. +White bait, 45, 46. +White soup, 9. + superior, do., 11. +Wine, mulled, 183. + egg, 183. + +Yorkshire pudding, 138. + + + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's The Jewish Manual, by Judith Cohen Montefiore + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE JEWISH MANUAL *** + +***** This file should be named 12327.txt or 12327.zip ***** +This and all associated files of 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