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+ Camps and Trails in China, by Roy Chapman Andrews—A Project Gutenberg eBook
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+<body>
+<p style='text-align:center; font-size:1.2em; font-weight:bold'>The Project Gutenberg eBook of Camps and Trails in China
, by Roy Chapman Andrews
</p>
+<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'>
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and
+most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
+whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms
+of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online
+at <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>. If you
+are not located in the United States, you will have to check the laws of the
+country where you are located before using this eBook.
+</div>
+
+<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Title: Camps and Trails in China
</p>
+<p style='display:block; margin-left:2em; text-indent:0; margin-top:0; margin-bottom:1em;'>A Narrative of Exploration, Adventure, and Sport in Little-known China
</p>
+ <p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Author: Roy Chapman Andrews
</p>
+ <p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Illustrator: Yvette Andrews
</p>
+<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Release Date: December 29, 2021 [eBook #12296]</p>
+<p style='display:block; text-indent:0; margin:1em 0'>Language: English
</p>
+ <p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em; text-align:left'>Produced by: Tom Cosmas produced from materials made available by the Hathi Trust and are placed in the Public Domain.
</p>
+<div style='margin-top:2em; margin-bottom:4em'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CAMPS AND TRAILS IN CHINA
***</div>
+
+
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" id="cover" style="width: 287px;">
+ <img src="images/cover.png" width="287" height="439" alt="Camps and Trails in China, by Roy Chapman Andrews" />
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_i">- i -</span></p>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<h1>CAMPS AND TRAILS<br />
+
+IN CHINA</h1>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_ii">- ii -</span></p>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" id="frontispiece" style="width: 250px;">
+ <img src="images/frontispiece.png" width="219" height="591" alt="" />
+ <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">Our Camp on the Snow Mountain
+at an Altitude of 12,000 Feet</span></div>
+</div>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_iii">- iii -</span></p>
+
+<h1 class="nobreak" id="CAMPS_AND_TRAILS">CAMPS AND TRAILS<br />
+IN CHINA</h1>
+</div>
+
+<p class="tdc">A NARRATIVE OF EXPLORATION, ADVENTURE, AND SPORT<br />
+IN LITTLE-KNOWN CHINA</p>
+
+
+<h2>ROY CHAPMAN ANDREWS, M.A.</h2>
+
+<p class="tdc smaller">ASSOCIATE CURATOR OF MAMMALS IN THE AMERICAN MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY AND<br />
+LEADER OF THE MUSEUM'S ASIATIC ZOÖLOGICAL EXPEDITION OF 1916-1917;<br />
+FELLOW NEW YORK ACADEMY OF SCIENCES; CORRESPONDING MEMBER<br />
+ZOÖLOGICAL SOCIETY OF LONDON; MEMBER OF THE BIOLOGICAL<br />
+SOCIETY OF WASHINGTON; AUTHOR "WHALEHUNTING<br />
+WITH GUN AND CAMERA"</p>
+
+<p class="tdc">AND</p>
+
+<h2>YVETTE BORUP ANDREWS</h2>
+
+<p class="tdc smaller">PHOTOGRAPHER OF THE ASIATIC ZOÖLOGICAL EXPEDITION</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" id="logo" style="width: 59px;">
+ <img src="images/logo.png" width="59" height="72" alt="" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="tdc">ILLUSTRATED</p>
+
+
+<p class="tdc larger">D. APPLETON AND COMPANY<br />
+NEW YORK<span style="letter-spacing: 2em;"> </span>LONDON<br />
+1918</p>
+
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_iv">- iv -</span></p>
+
+<p class="pmt4 pmb4 tdc smcap">Copyright, 1918, by<br />
+D. APPLETON AND COMPANY</p>
+
+
+
+<p class="tdc pmt4 pmb4">Printed in the United States of America</p>
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_v">- v -</span></p>
+
+
+<p class="tdc pmt4">THIS BOOK IS DEDICATED TO</p>
+
+<p class="tdc larger">PRESIDENT HENRY FAIRFIELD OSBORN</p>
+
+<p class="tdc pmb4">AS AN EXPRESSION OF GRATITUDE<br />
+AND ADMIRATION</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_vii">- vii -</span></p>
+
+
+<div class="poetry-container">
+<div class="poetry">
+ <div class="stanza">
+ <div class="verse indent0">"Let us probe the silent places, let us seek what luck betide us;</div>
+ <div class="verse indent1">Let us journey to a lonely land I know.</div>
+ <div class="verse indent1">There's a whisper on the night-wind, there's a star agleam to guide us,</div>
+ <div class="verse indent1">And the Wild is calling, calling ... let us go."</div>
+ </div>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+<p class="tdr">—<i>Service</i>.<br /></p>
+
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_viii">- viii -</span></p>
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_ix">- ix -</span></p>
+
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="PREFACE">PREFACE</h2>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>The object of this book is to present a popular narrative
+of the Asiatic Zoölogical Expedition of the American Museum
+of Natural History to China in 1916-17. Details of a purely
+scientific nature have been condensed, or eliminated, and emphasis
+has been placed upon our experiences with the strange
+natives and animals of a remote and little known region in the
+hope that the book will be interesting to the general reader.</p>
+
+<p>The scientific reputation of the Expedition will rest upon
+the technical reports of its work which will be published in due
+course by the American Museum of Natural History. To
+these reports we would refer those readers who desire more
+complete information concerning the results of our researches.
+At the time the manuscript of this volume was sent to press
+the collections were still undergoing preparation and the study
+of the different groups had just begun.</p>
+
+<p>Although the book has been largely written by the senior
+author, his collaborator has contributed six chapters marked
+with her initials; all the illustrations are from her photographs
+and continual use has been made of her daily journals; she has,
+moreover, materially assisted in reference work and in numerous
+other ways.</p>
+
+<p>The information concerning the relationships and distribution
+of the native tribes of Yün-nan is largely drawn from
+the excellent reference work by Major H. R. Davies and we
+have followed his spelling of Chinese names.</p>
+
+<p>Parts of the book have been published as separate articles
+in the <i>American Museum Journal</i>, <i>Harper's Magazine</i>, and
+<i>Asia</i> and to the editors of the above publications our acknowledgments
+are due.</p>
+
+<p>That the Expedition obtained a very large and representative
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_x">- x -</span>
+collection of small mammals is owing in a great measure
+to the efforts of Mr. Edmund Heller, our companion in the
+field. He worked tirelessly in the care and preservation of the
+specimens, and the fact that they reached New York in excellent
+condition is, in itself, the best testimony to the skill
+and thoroughness with which they were prepared.</p>
+
+<p>Our Chinese interpreter, Wu Hung-tao, contributed largely
+to the success of the Expedition. His faithful and enthusiastic
+devotion to our interests and his tact and resourcefulness
+under trying circumstances won our lasting gratitude and affectionate
+regard.</p>
+
+<p>The nineteen months during which we were in Asia are among
+the most memorable of our lives and we wish to express our
+deepest gratitude to the Trustees of the American Museum of
+Natural History, and especially to President Henry Fairfield
+Osborn, whose enthusiastic endorsement and loyal support
+made the Expedition possible. Director F. A. Lucas, Dr. J. A.
+Allen and Mr. George H. Sherwood were unfailing in furthering
+our interests, and to them we extend our hearty thanks.</p>
+
+<p>To the following patrons, who by their generous contributions
+materially assisted in the financing of the Expedition, we
+wish to acknowledge our great personal indebtedness as well
+as that of the Museum; Mr. and Mrs. Charles L. Bernheimer,
+Mr. and Mrs. Sidney M. Colgate, Messrs. George Bowdoin,
+Lincoln Ellsworth, James B. Ford, Henry C. Frick, Childs
+Frick, and Mrs. Adrian Hoffman Joline.</p>
+
+<p>The Expedition received many courtesies while in the field
+from the following gentlemen, without whose coöperation it
+would have been impossible to have carried on the work successfully.
+Their services have been referred to individually in
+subsequent parts of the book: The Director of the Bureau of
+Foreign Affairs of the Province of Yün-nan; M. Georges
+Chemin Dupontès, Director de l'Exploration de la Compagnie
+Française des Chemins de Fer de l'Indochine et du Yün-nan,
+Hanoi, Tonking; M. Henry Wilden, Consul de France, Shanghai;
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xi">- xi -</span>
+M. Kraemer, Consul de France, Hongkong; Mr. Howard
+Page, Standard Oil Co., Yün-nan Fu; the Hon. Paul Reinsch,
+Minister Plenipotentiary and Envoy Extraordinary to the
+Chinese Republic, Mr. J. V. A. McMurray, First Secretary of
+the American Legation, Peking; Mr. H. G. Evans, British-American
+Tobacco Co., Hongkong; the Rev. William Hanna,
+Ta-li Fu; the Rev. A. Kok, Li-chiang Fu; Ralph Grierson,
+Esq., Teng-yueh; Herbert Goffe, Esq., H. B. M. Consul General,
+Yün-nan Fu; Messrs. C. R. Kellogg, and H. W. Livingstone,
+Foochow, China; the General Passenger Agent, Canadian
+Pacific Railroad Company, Hongkong; and the Rev. H. R.
+Caldwell, Yen-ping, who has read parts of this book in manuscript
+and who through his criticisms has afforded us the
+benefit of his long experience in China.</p>
+
+<p>To Miss Agnes F. Molloy and Miss Anna Katherine Berger
+we wish to express our appreciation of editorial and other assistance
+during the preparation of the volume.</p>
+
+<p class="tdr"><span class="smcap">Roy Chapman Andrews</span><br />
+ <span class="smcap">Yvette Borup Andrews</span></p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Justamere Home</span>,<br />
+ <i>Lawrence Park,<br />
+ Bronxville, N. Y.</i><br />
+<i>May 10, 1917.</i></p>
+
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_xiii">- xiii -</span></p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CONTENTS">CONTENTS</h2>
+</div>
+
+
+<p class="caption2">CHAPTER I</p>
+
+<p class="caption3 smcap">The Object of the Expedition</p>
+
+<p class="tdr smaller">PAGE</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p>The importance of the scientific exploration of Central
+Asia—The region which the Asiatic Zoölogical
+Expedition investigated—Personnel of the
+Expedition—Equipment—Applicants for positions upon the
+Expedition</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_I">1-6</a></p>
+
+
+<p class="caption2">CHAPTER II</p>
+
+<p class="caption3 smcap">China in Turmoil</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p>Yuan Shi-kai—Plot to become emperor of China—The Rebellion—Our
+arrival in Peking—Passports for Fukien Province—Admiral
+von Hintze, the German Minister—<i>En
+route</i> to Shanghai—Death of Yuan Shi-kai</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_II">7-14</a></p>
+
+
+<p class="caption2">CHAPTER III</p>
+
+<p class="caption3 smcap">Up the Min River</p>
+
+<p class="caption4">Y. B. A.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p>Arrival at Foochow—Foochow—We leave for Yen-ping—The
+Min River—Our first night in a <i>sampan</i>—Miss Mabel
+Hartford—Brigands at Yuchi—Yen-ping—Trapping at
+Yen-ping</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_III">15-25</a></p>
+
+
+<p class="caption2">CHAPTER IV</p>
+
+<p class="caption3 smcap">A Bat Cave in the Big Ravine</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p>The Temple in the Big Ravine—Hunting serow—A bat apartment house</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_IV">26-81</a></p>
+
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_xiv">- xiv -</span></p>
+
+
+<p class="caption2">CHAPTER V</p>
+
+<p class="caption3 smcap">The Yen-ping Rebellion</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p>A message from Mr. Caldwell—Refugees from Yen-ping—Situation
+in the city—Fighting on Monday morning—Wounded
+men at the hospital—We do Red Cross work—More
+fighting—A Chinese puzzle—The missionaries save
+the city—The narrow escape of a young Chinese—The
+mission cook—Return to Foochow</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_V">82-48</a></p>
+
+
+<p class="caption2">CHAPTER VI</p>
+
+<p class="caption3 smcap">Hunting the Great Invisible</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p>Tiger lairs—Mr. Caldwell's method of hunting—His first
+tiger—Habits of tigers—Experiences with the Great
+Invisible—Killing a man-eater—Chinese superstitions—Hunting
+in the lair</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_VI">44-58</a></p>
+
+
+<p class="caption2">CHAPTER VII</p>
+
+<p class="caption3 smcap">The Blue Tiger</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p>Arriving at Lung-tao—The blue tiger—Mr. Caldwell's first
+view of the beast—The lair in the Long Ravine—Bad luck
+with the tiger—A meeting in the dark—Ling-suik monastery—Life
+at the temple—Fukien Province as a collecting ground</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_VI">54-66</a></p>
+
+
+
+<p class="caption2">CHAPTER VIII</p>
+
+<p class="caption3 smcap">The Women of China</p>
+
+<p class="caption4">Y. B. A.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p>Schools for girls—Position of women—The Confucian rules—Woman's
+life in the home—Foot binding—Early marriage—A
+Chinese wedding</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_VIII">67-73</a></p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_xv">- xv -</span></p>
+
+
+<p class="caption2">CHAPTER IX</p>
+
+<p class="caption3 smcap">Voyaging to Yün-nan</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p>Outfitting in Hongkong—Food—Guns—Cameras—<i>En route</i>
+to Tonking—The Island of Hainan—We engage a cook
+at Paik-hoi—Arrival in Haiphong—Loss of our Ammunition—Hanoi—The
+railroad to Yün-nan Fu—Yün-nan—The
+Chinese Foreign Office endorses our plans</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_IX">74-83</a></p>
+
+
+<p class="caption2">CHAPTER X</p>
+
+<p class="caption3 smcap">On the Road to Ta-li Fu</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p>Oar caravan—The Yün-nan pack saddle—Temple camps—Chinese
+<i>mafus</i>—Roads—Country—Ignorance of a Chinese
+scholar—New mammals—Village life—Opium
+growing—An opium scandal—Goitre—The Chinese
+"Mountain schooner"—Horses—Miss Morgan—Brigands—Our
+guard of soldiers</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_X">84-98</a></p>
+
+
+<p class="caption2">CHAPTER XI</p>
+
+<p class="caption3 smcap">Ta-li Fu</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p>Hsia-kuan—Summer temperature—Lake—Graves—Pagodas—Mr.
+H. G. Evans—Foreigners of Ta-li Fu—Chinese
+mandarins—Mammals at Ta-li—Caravan horses and
+mules—The cook becomes ill</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XI">99-106</a></p>
+
+
+
+<p class="caption2">CHAPTER XII</p>
+
+<p class="caption3 smcap">Li-chiang, and the "Temple of the Flowers"</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p>Traveling to Li-chiang—Our entrance into the city—The
+surprise of the foreigners—The temple—Excellent collecting—Small
+mammals—The Moso natives—Customs—The
+Snow Mountain—Baron Haendel-Mazzetti</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XII">107-113</a></p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_xvi">- xvi -</span></p>
+
+
+<p class="caption2">CHAPTER XIII</p>
+
+<p class="caption3 smcap">Camping in the Clouds</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p>Moso hunters—Primitive guns—Crossbows and poisoned
+arrows—Dogs—porcupine—New mammals—We find a
+new camp on the mountain</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIII">114-119</a></p>
+
+
+<p class="caption2">CHAPTER XIV</p>
+
+<p class="caption3 smcap">The First Goral</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p>Killed near camp—A sacrifice to the God of the Hunt—Small
+mammals—The second goral</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIV">120-125</a></p>
+
+
+<p class="caption2">CHAPTER XV</p>
+
+<p class="caption3 smcap">More Gorals</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p>Gorals almost invisible—Heller shoots a kid—Collecting material
+for a Museum group—A splendid hunt—Two
+gorals—A crested muntjac</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XV">126-188</a></p>
+
+
+<p class="caption2">CHAPTER XVI</p>
+
+<p class="caption3 smcap">The Snow Mountain Temple</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p>The first illness in camp—Serow—Death of the leading dog—Rain—Two
+more serows—Lolos—Non-Chinese tribes of Yün-nan</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVI">184-189</a></p>
+
+
+<p class="caption2">CHAPTER XVII</p>
+
+<p class="caption3 smcap">Gorals and Serows</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p>Relationship—Appearance of the serow—Habits—Gorals</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVII">140-148</a></p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_xvii">- xvii -</span></p>
+
+
+<p class="caption2">CHAPTER XVIII</p>
+
+<p class="caption3 smcap">The "White Water"</p>
+
+<p class="caption4">Y. B. A.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p>Our new camp—serow—We go to Li-chiang—A burial ceremony—Ancestor
+worship</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVIII">140-156</a></p>
+
+
+<p class="caption2">CHAPTER XIX</p>
+
+<p class="caption3 smcap">Across the Yangtze Gorge</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p>Traveling to the river—Inaccuracy of the Chinese—First view
+of the gorge—The Taku ferry—Cares</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIX">157-163</a></p>
+
+
+<p class="caption2">CHAPTER XX</p>
+
+<p class="caption3 smcap">Through Unmapped Country</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p>Along the rim of the gorge—A beautiful camp at Habala—New
+mammals—Photographic work—Phete village—Stupid
+inhabitants—Strange natives—The "Windy Camp"—Hotenfa</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XX">164-171</a></p>
+
+
+<p class="caption2">CHAPTER XXI</p>
+
+<p class="caption3 smcap">Traveling Toward Tibet</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p>A hard climb—Our highest camp—A Lolo village—Thanksgiving
+with the Lolos</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXI">172-177</a></p>
+
+
+<p class="caption2">CHAPTER XXII</p>
+
+<p class="caption3 smcap">Stalking Tibetans with a Camera</p>
+
+<p class="caption4">Y. B. A.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p>Caravans—Tibetans—Dress—Appearance—Photographing
+frightened natives—Reason for suspicion</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXII">178-181</a></p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_xviii">- xviii -</span></p>
+
+
+<p class="caption2">CHAPTER XXIII</p>
+
+<p class="caption3 smcap">Westward to the Mekong River</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p>Snow—Photographing natives—The Snow Mountain again—The
+Shih-ku ferry—Cranes—"Brahminy ducks"—A
+well-deserved beating—Chinese soldiers</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXIII">182-189</a></p>
+
+
+<p class="caption2">CHAPTER XXIV</p>
+
+<p class="caption3 smcap">Down the Mekong Valley</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p>Arrival at Wei-hsi—The Mekong River—Lutzu natives—Difficulties
+in the valley—An unexpected goral—Christmas—The
+salt wells—A snow covered pass—Duck shooting—Return
+to Ta-li Fu</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXIV">190-201</a></p>
+
+
+<p class="caption2">CHAPTER XXV</p>
+
+<p class="caption3 smcap">Missionaries We Have Known</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p>Our observations on work of missionaries in Fukien and Yün-nan
+Provinces—Mode of living—Servants—Voluntary
+exile—Medical missionaries—A missionary's experience
+with the brigands at Yuchi</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXV">202-211</a></p>
+
+
+<p class="caption2">CHAPTER XXVI</p>
+
+<p class="caption3 smcap">Chinese New Year at Yung-chang</p>
+
+<p class="caption4">Y. B. A.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p>Traveling to Yung-chang—New Year's customs—Inhabitants
+of the city—Foot-binding—Caves—Water buffaloes—Chinese
+cow-caravans—Yung-chang mentioned by Marco Polo</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXVI">212-222</a></p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_xix">- xix -</span></p>
+
+
+<p class="caption2">CHAPTER XXVII</p>
+
+<p class="caption3 smcap">Traveling Toward the Tropics</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p>Shih-tien plain—Curious inhabitants of the city—A tropical
+valley at Ma-po-lo—"A little more far"—A splendid
+camp—Many new mammals—Preparing specimens
+Sambur—Trapping</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXVII">223-232</a></p>
+
+
+<p class="caption2">CHAPTER XXVIII</p>
+
+<p class="caption3 smcap">Meng-ting: a Village of Many Tongues</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p>The first Shan Village—Priscilla and John Alden—Meng-ting—The
+Shan mandarin—Young priests—The market—Photographing
+under difficulties—Suppression of opium growing</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXVIII">233-343</a></p>
+
+
+<p class="caption2">CHAPTER XXIX</p>
+
+<p class="caption3 smcap">Camping on the Nam-ting River</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p>A beautiful camp—The "Dying Rabbit"—Sambur hunting—Jungle
+fowl—Civets—Pole cats and other animals</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXIX">244-251</a></p>
+
+
+<p class="caption2">CHAPTER XXX</p>
+
+<p class="caption3 smcap">Monkey Hunting</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p>Strange calls in the jangle—Our first gibbons—Relationship
+and habits—Langurs and baboons—A night in the jungle</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXX">252-259</a></p>
+
+
+<p class="caption2">CHAPTER XXXI</p>
+
+<p class="caption3 smcap">The Shans of the Burma Border</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p>An unfriendly chief—Honest natives—Houses at Nam-ka—Tattooing—Shan
+tribe—Dress</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXXI">260-263</a></p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_xx">- xx -</span></p>
+
+
+<p class="caption2">CHAPTER XXXII</p>
+
+<p class="caption3 smcap">Prisoners of War in Burma</p>
+
+<p class="caption4">Y. B. A.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p>The mythical Ma-li-ling—Across the frontier into Burma—The
+<i>mafus</i> rebel—Ma-li-pa—Captain Clive—Guarding
+the border—Life at Ma-li-pa</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXXII">264-272</a></p>
+
+
+<p class="caption2">CHAPTER XXXIII</p>
+
+<p class="caption3 smcap">Hunting Peacocks on the Salween River</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p>The Valley at Changlung—The ferry—Peacocks—The stalker
+stalked—Habits of peafowls</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXXIII">273-280</a></p>
+
+
+<p class="caption2">CHAPTER XXXIV</p>
+
+<p class="caption3 smcap">The Gibbons of Ho-mu-shu</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p>Climbing out of the Salween Valley—A Shan Village—Ho-mu-shu—Camping
+on a mountain pass—Gibbons—An exciting
+hunt and a narrow escape—Habits of the "hoolock"</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXXIV">281-290</a></p>
+
+
+<p class="caption2">CHAPTER XXXV</p>
+
+<p class="caption3 smcap">Teng-yueh: a Link with Civilization</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p>Tai-ping-pu—Flying squirrels—Lisos—A bat cave—Mail—Teng-yueh—Mr.
+Ralph Grierson—Tibetan bear cubs</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXXV">291-297</a></p>
+
+
+<p class="caption2">CHAPTER XXXVI</p>
+
+<p class="caption3 smcap">A Big Game Paradise</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p>Gorals at Hui-yao—Deer—Splendid hunts</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXXVI">298-304</a></p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_xxi">- xxi -</span></p>
+
+
+<p class="caption2">CHAPTER XXXVII</p>
+
+<p class="caption3 smcap">Serow and Sambur</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p>Monkeys at Hai-yao—Muntjacs—A new serow—We move
+camp to Wa-tien—A fine sambur</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXXVII">305-314</a></p>
+
+
+<p class="caption2">CHAPTER XXXVIII</p>
+
+<p class="caption3 smcap">Last Days in China</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p>Return to Teng-yueh—Packing the specimens—Results of
+the Expedition—On the road to Bhamo—The chair
+coolies—Burma <i>vs.</i> China—In civilisation again—Farewell
+to the Orient</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XXXVIII">315-322</a></p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_xxiii">- xxiii -</span></p>
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS">LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</h2>
+</div>
+
+
+<table summary="LOI">
+<tr>
+ <td></td>
+ <td class="tdr smaller">FACING<br />PAGE</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td class="tdl">Our camp on the Snow Mountain at an altitude of 12,000 feet</td>
+ <td></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td class="tdr"><a href="#frontispiece"><i>Frontispiece</i></a></td>
+ <td></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td colspan="2"> </td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td class="tdl">Yvette Borup Andrews with a pet Yün-nan squirrel</td>
+ <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f4a">4</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td class="tdl">Edmund Heller</td>
+ <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f4b">4</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td class="tdl">Roy Chapman Andrews and a goral</td>
+ <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f4c">4</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td colspan="2"> </td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td class="tdl">A Chinese hunter and a muntjac</td>
+ <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f28a">28</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td class="tdl">Brigands killed in the Yen-ping Rebellion</td>
+ <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f28b">28</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td colspan="2"> </td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td class="tdl">The Ling-suik monastery</td>
+ <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f62a">62</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td class="tdl">A priest of Ling-suik</td>
+ <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f62b">62</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td colspan="2"> </td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td class="tdl">A Chinese mother with her children</td>
+ <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f70a">70</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td class="tdl">Chinese women of the coolie class with bound feet</td>
+ <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f70b">70</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td colspan="2"> </td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td class="tdl">Cormorant fishers on the lake at Yün-nan Fu</td>
+ <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f84a">84</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td class="tdl">Our camp at Chou Chou on the way to Ta-li Fu</td>
+ <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f84b">84</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td colspan="2"> </td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td class="tdl">The Pagodas at Ta-li Fu</td>
+ <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f96a">96</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td class="tdl">The dead of China</td>
+ <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f96b">96</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td colspan="2"> </td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td class="tdl">The residence of Rev. William J. Hanna at Ta-li Fu</td>
+ <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f102a">102</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td class="tdl">The gate and main street of Ta-li Fu</td>
+ <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f102b">102</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td colspan="2"> </td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td class="tdl">One of the pagodas at Ta-li Fu</td>
+ <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f108a">108</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td colspan="2"> </td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td class="tdl">A Moso herder</td>
+ <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f112a">112</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td class="tdl">A Moso woman</td>
+ <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f112b">112</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td colspan="2"> </td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td class="tdl">The Snow Mountain</td>
+ <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f116a">116</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td colspan="2"> </td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td class="tdl">A cheek gun used by one of our hunters</td>
+ <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f118a">118</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td class="tdl">The first goral killed on the Snow Mountain</td>
+ <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f118b">118</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td colspan="2"> </td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td class="tdl">Hotenfa, one of oar Moso hunters, bringing in a goral
+ <span class="pagenum" id="Page_xxiv">- xxiv -</span></td>
+ <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f120a">120</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td class="tdl">Another Moso hunter with a porcupine</td>
+ <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f120b">120</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td colspan="2"> </td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td class="tdl">A typical goral cliff on the Snow Mountain</td>
+ <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f132a">132</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td colspan="2"> </td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td class="tdl">A serow killed on the Snow Mountain</td>
+ <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f140a">140</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td class="tdl">The head of a serow</td>
+ <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f140b">140</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td colspan="2"> </td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td class="tdl">The "white water"</td>
+ <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f152a">152</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td colspan="2"> </td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td class="tdl">A Liso hunter carrying a flying squirrel</td>
+ <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f162a">162</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td class="tdl">The chief of our Lolo hunters</td>
+ <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f162b">162</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td colspan="2"> </td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td class="tdl">A Lolo village</td>
+ <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f174a">174</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td class="tdl">Lolos seeing their photographs for the first time</td>
+ <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f174b">174</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td colspan="2"> </td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td class="tdl">Travelers in the Mekong valley</td>
+ <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f180a">180</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td class="tdl">Two Tibetans</td>
+ <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f180b">180</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td colspan="2"> </td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td class="tdl">The gorge of the Yangtze River</td>
+ <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f184a">184</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td colspan="2"> </td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td class="tdl">A quiet curve of the Mekong River</td>
+ <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f190a">190</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td colspan="2"> </td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td class="tdl">The temple in which we camped at Ta-li Fu</td>
+ <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f200a">200</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td class="tdl">A crested muntjac</td>
+ <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f200b">200</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td colspan="2"> </td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td class="tdl">The south gate at Yung-chang</td>
+ <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f210a">210</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td class="tdl">A Chinese bride returning to her mother's home at New Year's</td>
+ <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f210b">210</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td colspan="2"> </td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td class="tdl">A Chinese patriarch</td>
+ <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f224a">224</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td class="tdl">Young China</td>
+ <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f224b">224</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td colspan="2"> </td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td class="tdl">A Shan village</td>
+ <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f234a">234</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td class="tdl">A Shan woman spinning</td>
+ <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f234b">234</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td colspan="2"> </td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td class="tdl">A Kachin woman in the market at Meng-ting</td>
+ <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f240a">240</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td class="tdl">One of our Shan hunters with two yellow gibbons</td>
+ <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f240b">240</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td colspan="2"> </td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td class="tdl">Our camp on the Nam-ting River</td>
+ <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f246a">246</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td class="tdl">The Shan village at Nam-ka</td>
+ <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f246b">246</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td colspan="2"> </td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td class="tdl">The head of a gibbon killed on the Nam-ting River</td>
+ <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f254a">254</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td class="tdl">A civet</td>
+ <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f254b">254</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td colspan="2"> </td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td class="tdl">A Shan girl<span class="pagenum" id="Page_xxv">- xxv -</span></td>
+ <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f260a">260</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td class="tdl">A Shan boy</td>
+ <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f260b">260</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td colspan="2"> </td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td class="tdl">A suspension bridge</td>
+ <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f288a">288</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td class="tdl">Mrs. Andrews feeding one of our bear cubs</td>
+ <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f288b">288</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td colspan="2"> </td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td class="tdl">A sambur killed at Wa-tien</td>
+ <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f302a">302</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td class="tdl">The head of a muntjac</td>
+ <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f302b">302</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td colspan="2"> </td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td class="tdl">A mountain chair</td>
+ <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f312a">312</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td class="tdl">The waterfall at Teng-yueh</td>
+ <td class="tdr"><a href="#img_f312b">312</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td colspan="2"> </td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td class="tdl">Map I. The red line indicates the travels of the Expedition</td>
+ <td class="tdr"><a href="#map_i_sm">318</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td colspan="2"> </td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td class="tdl">Map II. Route of the Expedition in Yün-nan</td>
+ <td class="tdr"><a href="#map_ii_sm">320</a></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_1">- 1 -</span></p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<h1 class="nobreak">CAMPS AND TRAILS<br />
+IN CHINA</h1>
+</div>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_I">CHAPTER I</h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class="caption3">THE OBJECT OF THE EXPEDITION</p>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">The</span> earliest remains of primitive man probably will
+be found somewhere in the vast plateau of Central
+Asia, north of the Himalaya Mountains. From this
+region came the successive invasions that poured into
+Europe from the east, to India from the north, and to
+China from the west; the migration route to North
+America led over the Bering Strait and spread fanwise
+south and southeast to the farthest extremity of South
+America. The Central Asian plateau at the beginning
+of the Pleistocene was probably less arid than it is today
+and there is reason to believe that this general region
+was not only the distributing center of man but also of
+many of the forms of mammalian life which are now
+living in other parts of the world. For instance, our
+American moose, the wapiti or elk. Rocky Mountain
+sheep, the so-called mountain goat, and other animals
+are probably of Central Asian origin.</p>
+
+<p>Doubtless there were many contributing causes to
+the extensive wanderings of primitive tribes, but as
+they were primarily hunters, one of the most important
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_2">- 2 -</span>
+must have been the movements of the game upon which
+they lived. Therefore the study of the early human
+races is, necessarily, closely connected with, and dependent
+upon, a knowledge of the Central Asian mammalian
+life and its distribution. No systematic palæontological,
+archæological, or zoölogical study of this region on
+a large scale has ever been attempted, and there is no
+similar area of the inhabited surface of the earth about
+which so little is known.</p>
+
+<p>The American Museum of Natural History hopes in
+the near future to conduct extensive explorations in
+this part of the world along general scientific lines.
+The country itself and its inhabitants, however, present
+unusual obstacles to scientific research. Not only is the
+region one of vast intersecting mountain ranges, the
+greatest of the earth, but the climate is too cold in winter
+to permit of continuous work. The people have a
+natural dislike for foreigners, and the political events
+of the last half century have not tended to decrease
+their suspicions.</p>
+
+<p>It is possible to overcome such difficulties, but the
+plans for extensive research must be carefully prepared.
+One of the most important steps is the sending
+out of preliminary expeditions to gain a general knowledge
+of the natives and fauna and of the conditions to
+be encountered. For the first reconnaissance, which was
+intended to be largely a mammalian survey, the Asiatic
+Zoölogical Expedition left New York in March, 1916.</p>
+
+<p>Its destination was Yün-nan, a province in southwestern
+China. This is one of the least known parts
+of the Chinese Republic and, because of its southern
+latitude and high mountain systems, the climate and
+faunal range is very great. It is about equal in size to
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_3">- 3 -</span>
+the state of California and topographically might be
+likened to the ocean in a furious gale, for the greater
+part of its surface has been thrown into vast mountain
+waves which divide and cross one another in hopeless
+confusion.</p>
+
+<p>Yün-nan is bordered on the north by Tibet and
+S'suchuan, on the west by Burma, on the south by Tonking,
+and on the east by Kwei-chau Province. Faunistically
+the entire northwestern part of Yün-nan is essentially
+Tibetan, and the plateaus and mountain peaks
+range from altitudes of 8,000 feet to 20,000 feet above
+sea level. In the south and west along the borders of
+Burma and Tonking, in the low fever-stricken valleys,
+the climate is that of the mid-tropics, and the native
+life, as well as the fauna and flora, is of a totally different
+type from that found in the north.</p>
+
+<p>The natives of Yün-nan are exceptionally interesting.
+There are about thirty non-Chinese tribes in the
+province, some of whom, such as the Shans and Lolos,
+represent the aboriginal inhabitants of China, and it is
+safe to say that in no similar area of the world is there
+such a variety of language and dialects as in this region.</p>
+
+<p>Although the main work of the Expedition was to be
+conducted in Yün-nan, we decided to spend a short time
+in Fukien Province, China, and endeavor to obtain a
+specimen of the so-called "blue tiger" which has been
+seen twice by the Reverend Harry R. Caldwell, a missionary
+and amateur naturalist, who has done much
+hunting in the vicinity of Foochow.</p>
+
+<p>The white members of the first Asiatic Zoölogical
+Expedition included Mr. Edmund Heller, my wife
+(Yvette Borup Andrews) and myself. A Chinese
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_4">- 4 -</span>
+interpreter, Wu Hung-tao, with five native assistants and
+ten muleteers, completed the personnel.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Heller is a collector of wide experience. His
+early work, which was done in the western United States
+and the Galapagos Islands, was followed by many years
+of collecting in Mexico, Alaska, South America, and
+Africa. He first visited British East Africa with Mr.
+Carl E. Akeley, next with ex-President Theodore
+Roosevelt, and again with Mr. Paul J. Rainey. During
+the Asiatic Zoölogical Expedition Mr. Heller devoted
+most of his time to the gathering and preparation
+of small mammals. He joined our party late in July
+in China.</p>
+
+<p>Mrs. Andrews was the photographer of the Expedition.
+She had studied photography as an amateur in
+Germany, France, and Italy, as well as in New York,
+and had devoted especial attention to the taking of
+photographs in natural colors. Such work requires
+infinite care and patience, but the results are well worth
+the efforts expended.</p>
+
+<p>Wu Hung-tao is a native of Foochow, China, and
+studied English at the Anglo-Chinese College in that
+city. He lived for some time in Teng-yueh, Yün-nan,
+in the employ of Mr. F. W. Carey, Commissioner of
+Customs, and not only speaks mandarin Chinese but
+also several native dialects. He acted as interpreter,
+head "boy," and general field manager. My own work
+was devoted mainly to the direction of the Expedition
+and the hunting of big game.</p>
+
+<table summary="plates">
+<tr>
+ <td><div class="figcenter" id="img_f4a" style="width: 178px;">
+ <img src="images/img_f4a.png" width="178" height="299" alt="" />
+ <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">Yvette Borup Andrews
+ with a Pet Yün-nan Squirrel</span></div>
+ </div></td>
+ <td><div class="figcenter" id="img_f4b" style="width: 171px;">
+ <img src="images/img_f4b.png" width="171" height="298" alt="" />
+ <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">Edmund Heller</span></div>
+ </div></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td colspan="2"><div class="figcenter" id="img_f4c" style="width: 362px;">
+ <img src="images/img_f4c.png" width="362" height="288" alt="" />
+ <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">Roy Chapman Andrews and a Goral</span></div>
+ </div></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_5">- 5 -</span></p>
+
+<p>In order to reduce the heavy transportation charges
+we purchased only such equipment in New York as
+could not be obtained in Shanghai or Hongkong.
+Messrs. Shoverling, Daly & Gales furnished our guns,
+ammunition, tents, and general camp equipment, and
+gave excellent satisfaction in attention to the minor details
+which often assume alarming importance when an
+expedition is in the field and defects cannot be remedied.
+All food and commissary supplies were purchased in
+Hongkong (<i>see</i> Chapter IX).</p>
+
+<hr class="tb" />
+
+<p>When the announcement of the Expedition was made
+by the American Museum of Natural History it received
+wide publicity in America and other parts of the
+world. Immediately we began to discover how many
+strange persons make up the great cities of the United
+States, and we received letters and telegrams from hundreds
+of people who wished to take part in the Expedition.
+Men and boys were the principal applicants, but
+there was no lack of women, many of whom came to the
+Museum for personal interviews.</p>
+
+<p>Most of the letters were laughable in the extreme.
+One was from a butcher who thought he might be of
+great assistance in preparing our specimens, or defending
+us from savage natives; another young man offered
+himself to my wife as a personal bodyguard; a third
+was sure his twenty years' experience as a waiter would
+fit him for an important position on the Expedition,
+and numerous women, young and old, wished to become
+"companions" for my wife in those "drear wastes."</p>
+
+<p>Applicants continued to besiege us wherever we
+stopped on our way across the continent and in San
+Francisco until we embarked on the afternoon of Mardi
+28 on the S. S. <i>Tenyo Maru</i> for Japan.</p>
+
+<p>Our way across the Pacific was uneventful and as
+the great vessel drew in toward the wharf in Yokohama
+she was boarded by the usual crowd of natives. We
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_6">- 6 -</span>
+were standing at the rail when three Japanese approached
+and, bowing in unison, said, "We are report
+for leading Japanese newspaper. We wish to know
+all thing about Chinese animal." Evidently the speech
+had been rehearsed, for with it their English ended
+abruptly, and the interview proceeded rather lamely,
+on my part, in Japanese.</p>
+
+<p>Japan was reveling in the cherry blossom season when
+we arrived and for a person interested in color photography
+it was a veritable paradise. We stayed three
+weeks and regretfully left for Peking by way of Korea.
+But before we continue with the story of our further
+travels, we would like briefly to review the political
+situation in China as a background for our early work
+in the province of Fukien.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_7">- 7 -</span></p>
+
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_II">CHAPTER II</h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class="caption3">CHINA IN TURMOIL</p>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">During</span> the time the Expedition was preparing to
+leave New York, China was in turmoil. Yuan Shi-kai
+was president of the Republic, but the hope of his heart
+was to be emperor of China. For twenty years he had
+plotted for the throne; he had been emperor for one
+hundred miserable days; and now he was watching,
+impotently, his dream-castles crumble beneath his feet.
+Yuan was the strong man of his day, with more power,
+brains, and personality than any Chinese since Li-Hung
+Chang. He always had been a factor in his political
+world. His monarchical dream first took definite form
+as early as 1901 when he became viceroy of Chi-li, the
+province in which Peking is situated.</p>
+
+<p>It was then that he began to modernize and get control
+of the army which is the great basis of political
+power in China. Properly speaking, there was not, and
+is not now, a Chinese national army. It is rather a collection
+of armies, each giving loyalty to a certain general,
+and he who secures the support of the various commanders
+controls the destiny of China's four hundred
+millions of people regardless of his official title.</p>
+
+<p>Yuan was able to bind to himself the majority of
+the leading generals, and in 1911, when the Manchu
+dynasty was overthrown, his plots and intrigues began
+to bear fruit. By crafty juggling of the rebels and
+Manchus he managed to get himself elected president
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_8">- 8 -</span>
+of the new republic, although he did not for a moment
+believe in the republican form of government. He was
+always a monarchist at heart but was perfectly willing
+to declare himself an ardent republican so long as such
+a declaration could be used as a stepping stone to the
+throne which he kept ever as his ultimate goal.</p>
+
+<p>As president he ruled with a high hand. In 1918
+there was a rebellion in protest against his official acts
+but he defeated the rebels, won over more of the older
+generals, and solidified the army for his own interests,
+making himself stronger than ever before.</p>
+
+<p>At this time he might well have made a <i>coup d'état</i>
+and proclaimed himself emperor with hardly a shadow
+of resistance, but with the hereditary caution of the
+Chinese he preferred to wait and plot and scheme. He
+wanted his position to be even more secure and to have
+it appear that he reluctantly accepted the throne as a
+patriotic duty at the insistent call of the people.</p>
+
+<p>Yuan's ways for producing the proper public sentiment
+were typically Chinese but entirely effective, and
+he was making splendid progress, when in May, 1915,
+Japan put a spoke in his wheel of fortune by taking advantage
+of the European war and presenting the historical
+twenty-one demands, to most of which China
+agreed.</p>
+
+<p>This delayed his plans only temporarily, and Yuan's
+agents pushed the work of making him emperor more
+actively than ever, with the result that the throne was
+tendered to him by the "unanimous vote of the people."
+To "save his face" he declined at first but at the second
+offer he "reluctantly" yielded and on December 12,
+1916, became emperor of China.</p>
+
+<p>But his triumph was short-lived, for eight days later
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_9">- 9 -</span>
+tidings of unrest in Yün-nan reached Peking. General
+Tsai-ao, a former military governor of the province, appeared
+in Yün-nan Fu, the capital, and, on December
+28, sent an ultimatum to Yuan stating that he must
+repudiate the monarchy and execute all those who had
+assisted him to gain the throne, otherwise Yün-nan
+would secede; which it forthwith did on December 25.</p>
+
+<p>Without doubt this rebellion was financed by the Japanese
+who had intimated to Yuan that the change from
+a republican form of government would not meet with
+their approval The rebellion spread rapidly. On January
+21, Kwei-chau Province, which adjoins Yün-nan,
+seceded, and, on March 18, Kwang-si also announced its
+independence.</p>
+
+<p>About this time the Museum authorities were becoming
+somewhat doubtful as to the advisability of proceeding
+with our Expedition. We had a long talk with
+Dr. Wellington Koo, the Chinese Minister to the United
+States, at the Biltmore Hotel in New York. Dr. Koo,
+while certain that the rebellion would be short-lived,
+strongly advised us to postpone our expedition until
+conditions became more settled. He offered to cable
+Peking for advice, but we, knowing how unwelcome
+to the government of the harassed Yuan would be a
+party of foreigners who wished to travel in the disturbed
+area, gratefully declined and determined to proceed
+regardless of conditions. We hoped that Yuan
+would be strong enough to crush this rebellion as he
+had that of 1918, but day by day, as we anxiously
+watched the papers, there came reports of other provinces
+dropping away from his standard.</p>
+
+<p>On the <i>Tenyo Maru</i> we met the Honorable Charles
+Denby, an ex-American Consul-General at Shanghai
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_10">- 10 -</span>
+and former adviser to Yuan Shi-kai when he was viceroy
+of Chi-li. Mr. Denby was interested in obtaining
+a road concession near Peking and was then on his
+way to see Yuan. His anxiety over the political situation
+was not less than ours and together we often paced
+the decks discussing what might happen; but every wireless
+report told of more desertions to the ranks of the
+rebels.</p>
+
+<p>It seemed to be the beginning of the end, for Yuan
+had lost his nerve. He had decided to quit, and one
+hundred days after he became emperor elect he issued
+a mandate canceling the monarchy and restoring the
+republic. But the rebellious provinces were not satisfied
+and demanded that he get out altogether.</p>
+
+<p>About this time we reached Peking, literally blown
+in by a tremendous dust storm which seemed an elemental
+manifestation of the human turmoil within the
+grim old walls. Our cousin, Commander Thomas Hutchins,
+Naval Attaché of the American Legation, was
+awaiting us on the platform, holding his hat with one
+hand and wiping the dust from his eyes with the other.</p>
+
+<p>The news we received from him was by no means
+comforting for in the Legation pessimism reigned supreme.
+The American Minister, Dr. Reinsch, was not
+enthusiastic about our going south regardless of conditions,
+but nevertheless he set about helping us to obtain
+the necessary visé for our passports.</p>
+
+<p>We wished first to go to Foochow, in Fukien Province,
+where we were to hunt tiger until Mr. Heller
+joined us in July for the expedition into Yün-nan.
+Fukien was still loyal to Yuan, but the strong Japanese
+influence in this province, which is directly opposite the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_11">- 11 -</span>
+island of Formosa, was causing considerable uneasiness
+in Peking.</p>
+
+<p>We were armed with telegrams from Mr. C. R.
+Kellogg, of the Anglo-Chinese College, with whom we
+were to stay while in Foochow, assuring us that all was
+quiet in the province, and through the influence of Dr.
+Reinsch, the Chinese Foreign Office viséd our passports.
+The huge red stamp which was affixed to them
+was an amusing example of Chinese "face saving."
+First came the seal of Yuan's impotent dynasty of Hung-Hsien,
+signifying "Brilliant Prosperity," and directly
+upon it was placed the stamp of the Chinese Republic.
+One was almost as legible as the other and thus the
+Foreign Office saved its face in whichever direction the
+shifting cards of political destiny should fall.</p>
+
+<p>At a luncheon given by Dr. Reinsch at the Embassy
+in Peking, we met Admiral von Hintze, the German
+Minister, who had recently completed an adventurous
+trip from Germany to China. He was Minister to
+Mexico at the beginning of the war but had returned
+to Berlin incognito through England to ask the Kaiser
+for active sea service. The Emperor was greatly elated
+over von Hintze's performance and offered him the
+appointment of Minister to China if he could reach
+Peking in the same way that he had traveled to Berlin.
+Von Hintze therefore shipped as supercargo on a Scandinavian
+tramp steamer and arrived safely at Shanghai,
+where he assumed all the pomp of a foreign diplomat
+and proceeded to the capital.</p>
+
+<p>The Americans were in a rather difficult position at
+this time because of the international complications,
+and social intercourse was extremely limited. Dinner
+guests had to be chosen with the greatest care and one
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_12">- 12 -</span>
+was very likely to meet exactly the same people wherever
+one went.</p>
+
+<p>Peking is a place never to be forgotten by one who
+has shared its social life. In the midst of one of the
+most picturesque, most historical, and most romantic
+cities of the world there is a cosmopolitan community
+that enjoys itself to the utmost. Its talk is all of horses,
+polo, racing, shooting, dinners, and dances, with the
+interesting background of Chinese politics, in which
+things are never dull. There is always a rebellion of
+some kind to furnish delightful thrills, and one never
+can tell when a new political bomb will be projected
+from the mysterious gates of the Forbidden City.</p>
+
+<p>We spent a week in Peking and regretfully left by
+rail for Shanghai. <i>En route</i> we passed through Tsinan-fu
+where the previous night serious fighting had occurred
+in which Japanese soldiers had joined with the
+rebels against Yuan's troops. On every side there was
+evidence of Japan's efforts against him. In the foreign
+quarter of Shanghai just behind the residence of Mr.
+Sammons, the American Consul-General, one of Yuan's
+leading officers had been openly murdered, and Japanese
+were directly concerned in the plot. We were told
+that it was very difficult at that time to lease houses in
+the foreign concession because wealthy Chinese who
+feared the wrath of one party or the other were eager
+to pay almost any rent to obtain the protection of that
+quarter of the city.</p>
+
+<p>A short time later it became known to a few that
+Yuan was seriously ill. He was suffering from Bright's
+disease with its consequent weakness, loss of mental
+alertness, and lack of concentration. French doctors
+were called in, but Yuan's wives insisted upon treating
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_13">- 13 -</span>
+him with concoctions of their own, and on June 6, shortly
+after three o'clock in the morning, he died.</p>
+
+<p>Even on his death-bed Yuan endeavored to save his
+face before the country, and his last words were a reiteration
+of what he knew no one believed. The story of
+his death is told in the China Press of June 7, 1916:</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p>According to news from the President's palace the condition
+of Yuan became critical at three o'clock in the morning. Yuan
+asked for his old confidential friend, Hsu Shih-chang, who came
+immediately. On the arrival of Hsu, Yuan was extremely weak,
+but entirely conscious.</p>
+
+<p>With tears in his eyes, Yuan assured his old friend that he
+had never had any personal ambition for an emperor's crown;
+he had been deceived by his <i>entourage</i> over the true state of
+public opinion and thus had sincerely believed the people wished
+for the restoration of the monarchy. The desire of the South
+for his resignation he had not wished to follow for fear that
+general anarchy would break out all over China. Now that
+he felt death approaching he asked Hsu to make his last words
+known to the public.</p>
+
+<p>In the temporary residence of President Li Yuan-hung,
+situated it, the Yung-chan-hu-tung (East City) and formerly
+owned by Yang Tu, the prominent monarchist, the formal
+transfer of the power to Li Yuan-hung took place this morning
+at ten o'clock. Yuan Chi-jui, Secretary of State and Premier,
+as well as all the members of the cabinet. Prince Pu Lun
+as chairman of the State Council, and other high officials were
+present.</p>
+
+<p>The officials, wearing ceremonial dress, were received by Li-Yuan-hung
+in the main hall and made three bows to the new
+president, which were returned by the latter. The same ceremony
+will take place at two o'clock, when all the high military
+officials will assemble at the President's residence.</p>
+
+<p>The Cabinet, in a circular telegram has informed all the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_14">- 14 -</span>
+provinces that Vice-President Li-Yuan-hung, in accordance
+with the constitution, has become president of the Chinese Republic
+(Chung-hua-min-kuo) from the seventh instance.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>So ended Yuan Shi-kai's great plot to make himself
+an emperor over four hundred millions of people, a
+plot which could only have been carried out in China.
+He failed, and the once valiant warrior died in the humiliation
+of defeat, leaving thirty-two wives, forty children
+and his country in political chaos.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_15">- 15 -</span></p>
+
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_III">CHAPTER III</h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class="caption3">UP THE MIN RIVER</p>
+
+<p class="caption4"><i>Y. B. A.</i></p>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Three</span> days after leaving Shanghai we arrived at
+Pagoda Anchorage at the mouth of the Min River,
+twelve miles from Foochow.</p>
+
+<p>We boarded a launch which threaded its way through
+a fleet of picturesque fishing vessels, each one of which
+had a round black and white eye painted on its crescent-shaped
+bow. When asked the reason for this decoration
+a Chinese on the launch looked at us rather pityingly
+for a moment and then said: "No have eye. No
+can see." How simple and how entirely satisfactory!</p>
+
+<p>The instant the launch touched the shore dozens of
+coolies swarmed like flies over it, fighting madly for
+our luggage. One seized a trunk, the other end of
+which had been appropriated by another man and, in
+the argument which ensued, each endeavored to deafen
+the other by his screams. The habit of yelling to enforce
+command is inherent with the Chinese and appears to
+be ineradicable. To expostulate in an ordinary tone
+of voice, pausing to listen to his opponent's reply, seems
+a psychological impossibility.</p>
+
+<p>There had been a mistake about the date of our arrival
+at Foochow, and we were two days earlier than
+we had been expected, so that Mr. C. R. Kellogg, of
+the Anglo-Chinese College, with whom we were to
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_16">- 16 -</span>
+stay, was not on the jetty to meet us. We were at a
+loss to know where to turn amidst the chaos and confusion
+until a customs officer took us in charge and,
+judiciously selecting a competent looking woman from
+among the screaming multitude, told her to get two
+sedan chairs and coolies to carry our luggage. She disappeared
+and ten minutes later the chairs arrived. Dashing
+about among the crowd in front of us, she chose
+the baggage for such men as met with her approval
+and after the usual amount of argument the loads were
+taken.</p>
+
+<p>We mounted our chairs and started off with apparently
+all Foochow following us. As far as we could see
+down the narrow street were the heads and shoulders of
+our porters. We felt as if we were heading an invading
+army as, with our thirty-three coolies and sixteen hundred
+pounds of luggage, we descended upon the homes
+of people whom we did not know and who were not
+expecting us. But our sudden arrival did not disturb
+the Kelloggs and our welcome was typical of the warm
+hospitality one always finds in the Far East.</p>
+
+<p>No matter how long one has lived in China one remains
+in a condition of mental suspense unable to decide
+which is the filthiest city of the Republic. The
+residents of Foochow boast that for offensiveness to
+the senses no town can compare with theirs, and although
+Amoy and several other places dispute this questionable
+title, we were inclined to grant it unreservedly
+to Foochow. It is like a medieval city with its narrow,
+ill-paved streets wandering aimlessly in a hopeless maze.
+They are usually roofed over so that by no accident
+can a ray of purifying sun penetrate their dark comers.
+With no ventilation whatsoever the oppressive air reeks
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_17">- 17 -</span>
+with the odors that rise from the streets and the steaming
+houses.</p>
+
+<p>In Foochow, as in other cities of China, the narrow
+alleys are literally choked with every form of industrial
+obstruction. Countless workmen plant themselves in the
+tiny passageways with the pigs, children, and dogs, and
+women bring their quilts to spread upon the stones.
+There is a common saying that the Chinese do little
+which is not at some time done on the street.</p>
+
+<p>The foreign residents, including consuls of all nationalities,
+missionaries, and merchants, live well out of
+the city on a hilltop. Their houses are built with very
+high ceilings and bare interiors, and as the occupants
+seldom go into the city except in a sedan chair and have
+"punkahs" waving day and night, life is made possible
+during the intense heat of summer.</p>
+
+<p>A telegram was awaiting us from the Reverend Harry
+Caldwell, with whom we were to hunt, asking us to
+come to his station two hundred miles up the river, and
+we passed two sweltering days repacking our outfit
+while Mr. Kellogg scoured the country for an English-speaking
+cook.</p>
+
+<p>One middle-aged gentleman presented himself, but
+when he learned that we were going "up country," he
+shook his head with an assumption of great filial devotion
+and said that he did not think his mother would
+let him go. Another was afraid the sun might be too
+hot. Finally on the eve of our departure we engaged
+a stuttering Chinese who assured us that he was a remarkable
+cook and exceptionally honest</p>
+
+<p>If you have never heard a Chinaman stutter you
+have something to live for, and although we discovered
+that our cook was a shameless rascal he was worth all
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_18">- 18 -</span>
+he extracted in "squeeze," for whenever he attempted
+to utter a word we became almost hysterical. He sounded
+exactly like a worn-out phonograph record buzzing
+on a single note, and when he finally did manage to
+articulate, his "pidgin" English in itself was screamingly
+funny.</p>
+
+<p>One day he came to the <i>sampan</i> proudly displaying a
+piece of beef and, after a series of vocal gymnastics,
+eventually succeeded in shouting: "Missie, this meat
+no belong die-cow. Die-cow not so handsome." Which
+meant that this particular piece of beef was not from
+an animal which had died from disease.</p>
+
+<p>The first stage of our trip began before daylight.
+We rode in four-man sedan chairs, followed by a long
+procession of heavily laden coolies with our cameras,
+duffle-sacks, and pack baskets. The road lay through
+green rice fields between terraced mountains, and we
+jogged along first on the crest of a hill, then in the
+valley, passing dilapidated temples with the paint flaking
+off and picturesque little huts half hidden in the
+reeds of the winding river. It was a relief to get into
+the country again after passing down the narrow village
+streets and to breathe fresh air perfumed with
+honeysuckle.</p>
+
+<p>A passenger launch makes the trip to Cui-kau at the
+beginning of the rapids, but it leaves at two o'clock in
+the morning and is literally crowded to overflowing
+with evil-smelling Chinese who sprawl over every available
+inch of deck space, so that even the missionaries
+strongly advised us against taking it. The passengers
+not infrequently are pushed off into the water. One
+of the missionaries witnessed an incident which illustrates
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_19">- 19 -</span>
+in a typical way the total lack of sympathy of the
+average Chinese.</p>
+
+<p>A coolie on the Cui-kau launch accidentally fell overboard,
+and although a friend was able to grasp his hand
+and hold him above the surface, no one offered to help
+him; the launch continued at full speed, and finally
+weakening, the poor man loosed his hold and sank. This
+is by no means an isolated case. Some years ago a
+foreign steamer was burned on the Yangtze River, and
+the crowds of watching Chinese did little or nothing
+to rescue the passengers and crew. Indeed, as fast as
+they made their way to shore many of them were robbed
+even of their clothing and some were murdered outright.</p>
+
+<p>Our first day on the Min River was the most luxurious
+of the entire Expedition, for we were fortunate
+in obtaining the Standard Oil Company's launch
+through the kindness of Mr. Livingstone, their agent.
+It was large and roomy, and the trip, which would
+have been worse than disagreeable on the public boat,
+was most delightful. The Min is one of the most beautiful
+rivers of all China with its velvet green mountains
+rising a thousand feet or more straight up from the
+water and often terraced to the summits.</p>
+
+<p>Perched on the bow of our boat was a wizened little
+gentleman with a pigtail wrapped around his head, who
+said he was a pilot, but as he inquired the channel of
+everyone who passed and ran us aground a dozen times
+or more to the tremendous agitation of our captain,
+we felt that his claim was not entirely justified.</p>
+
+<p>The river life was a fascinating, ever-changing picture.
+One moment we would pass a <i>sampan</i> so loaded
+with branches that it seemed like a small island floating
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_20">- 20 -</span>
+down the stream. Next a huge junk with bamboo-ribbed
+sails projecting at impossible angles drifted by,
+followed by innumerable smaller crafts, the monotonous
+chant of the boatmen coming faintly over the water to
+us as they passed.</p>
+
+<p>When evening came we had reached Cui-kau. The
+<i>sampans</i> in which we were to spend eight days were
+drawn up on the beach with twenty or thirty others.
+Right above us was the straggling town looking very
+much like the rear view of tenement houses at home.
+Darkness blotted out the filth of our surroundings but
+could do nothing to lessen the odors that poured down
+from the village, and we ate our dinner with little relish.</p>
+
+<p>Our beds were spread in the <i>sampans</i> which we shared
+in common with the four river men who formed the
+crew. There was only a mosquito net to screen the
+end of the boat, but all our surroundings were so strange
+that this was but a minor detail. As we lay in our cots
+we could look up at the stars framed in the half oval
+of the <i>sampan's</i> roof and listen to the sounds of the
+water life grow fainter and fainter as one by one the
+river men beached their boats for the night. It seemed
+only a few minutes later when we were roused by a
+rush of water, but it was daylight, and the boats had
+reached the first of the rapids which separated us from
+Yen-ping, one hundred and twenty miles away.</p>
+
+<p>In the late afternoon we arrived at Chang-hu-fan
+where Mr. Caldwell stood on the shore waving his hat
+to us amidst scores of dirty little children and the explosion
+of countless firecrackers. Wherever we went
+crackers preceded and followed us—for when a Chinese
+wishes to register extreme emotion, either of joy or sorrow,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_21">- 21 -</span>
+its expression always takes the form of firecrackers.</p>
+
+<p>There had been a good deal of persecution of the
+native Christians in the district, and only recently a band
+of soldiers had strung up the native pastor by the
+thumbs and beaten him senseless. He was our host that
+night and seemed to be a bright, vivacious, little man
+but quite deaf as a result of his cruel treatment. He
+never recovered and died a few weeks later. Mr. Caldwell
+had come to investigate the affair, for the missionaries
+are invested by the people themselves with a good
+deal of authority.</p>
+
+<p>We spent that night in the parish house just behind
+the little church, a bare schoolroom being turned over
+to us for our use, and it seemed very luxurious after we
+had set up our cots, tables, chairs, and bath tub; but the
+house was in the center of the town and the high walls
+shut out every breath of pure air. The barred windows
+opened on a street hardly six feet wide, and while we
+were preparing for bed there was a buzz of subdued
+whispers outside. We switched on a powerful electric
+flashlight and there stood at least forty men, women
+and children gazing at us with rapt attention, but they
+melted away before the blinding glare like snow in a
+June sun.</p>
+
+<p>That night was not a pleasant one. The heat was
+intense, the mosquitoes worse, and every dog and cat
+in the village seemed to choose our court yard as a
+dueling ground in which to settle old scores. The climax
+was reached at four o'clock in the morning, when
+directly under our windows there came a series of ear-splitting
+squeals followed by a horrible gurgle. The
+neighbors had chosen that particular spot and how to
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_22">- 22 -</span>
+kill the family pig, and the entire process which followed
+of sousing it in hot water and scraping off the hair was
+accompanied by unceasing chatter. Boiling with
+rage we dressed and went for a walk, vowing not to
+spend another night in the place but to sleep in the
+<i>sampans</i>.</p>
+
+<p>On the whole our river men were nice fellows but
+they had the love of companionship characteristic of
+all Chinese and the inherent desire to huddle together
+as closely as possible wherever they were. On the way
+up the river to Yuchi every evening they insisted on
+stopping at some foul-smelling village, and it was difficult
+to induce them to spend the night away from a town.
+Moreover, at our stops for luncheon they would invariably
+ignore a shady spot and choose a sand bank where
+the sun beat down like a blast furnace.</p>
+
+<p>The Chinese never appear to be affected by the sun
+and go bareheaded at all seasons of the year, shading
+their eyes with one hand or a partly opened fan. A
+fan is the prime requisite, and it is not uncommon to
+see coolies almost devoid of clothing, dragging a heavy
+load and with the perspiration streaming from their
+naked bodies, energetically fanning themselves meanwhile.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Caldwell was <i>en route</i> to Yuchi, one of his mission
+stations far up a branch of the Min River, and as
+there was a vague report of tiger in that vicinity we
+joined him instead of proceeding directly to Yen-ping.
+The tiger story was found to be merely a myth, but
+our trip was made interesting by meeting Miss Mabel
+Hartford, the only foreign resident of the place. She
+has lived in Yuchi for two years and at one time did
+not see a white person for eight months with the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_23">- 23 -</span>
+exception of Mr. Caldwell who was in the vicinity for
+three days. It requires four weeks to obtain supplies
+from Foochow, there is no telegraph, and mails are
+very irregular, but she enjoys the isolation and is passionately
+fond of her work.</p>
+
+<p>She has had an interesting life and one not devoid
+of danger. In 1895 she was wounded and barely escaped
+death in the Hwa Shan (Flower Mountain) massacre
+in which ten women and one man were brutally murdered
+by a mob of fanatic natives known as "Vegetarians."
+The Chinese Government was required to pay
+a considerable indemnity to Miss Hartford, which she
+accepted only under protest and characteristically devoted
+to missionary work in Kucheng where the massacre
+occurred.</p>
+
+<p>Conditions at Yuchi when we arrived were most unsettled
+and for some months there had been a veritable
+"reign of terror." A large band of brigands was established
+in the hills not far from the city, and we were
+warned by the mandarin not to attempt to go farther
+up the river. A few months earlier several companies
+of soldiers had been sent from Foochow, and the result
+of turning loose these ruffians upon the town was to
+make "the remedy worse than the disease."</p>
+
+<p>The soldiers were continually arresting innocent peasants,
+accusing them of being brigands or aiding the
+bandits, and shooting them without a hearing. At one
+time accurate information concerning the camp of the
+robbers was received and the soldiers set bravely off,
+but when within a short distance of the brigands the
+commanders began to quarrel among themselves, guns
+were fired, and the bandits escaped. A Chinaman must
+always "save his face," however, and when they returned
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_24">- 24 -</span>
+to Yuchi they arrested dozens of people on mere suspicion
+and executed them without the vestige of a trial.
+Finally conditions became so intolerable that no one
+was safe, and after repeated complaints by the missionaries,
+a new mandarin of a somewhat better type was
+sent to Yuchi.</p>
+
+<p>As it was impossible to do any collecting farther up
+the river because of the bandits, we left for Yen-ping
+two days after arriving at Yuchi. Yen-ping is a wonderfully
+picturesque old city, situated on a hill at a fork
+of the river and surrounded by high stone walls pierced
+and loopholed for rifle fire. Such walls, while of little
+use against artillery, nevertheless offer a formidable
+obstacle to anything less than field guns as we ourselves
+were destined to discover.</p>
+
+<p>The Methodist mission compound encloses a considerable
+area on the very summit of the hill, backed by
+the city wall, and besides the four dwelling houses, comprises
+two large schools for boys and girls. Mr. Caldwell's
+residence commands a wonderful view down the
+river and in the late afternoon sunlight when the hills
+are bathed in pink and lavender and purple a more
+beautiful spot can hardly be imagined.</p>
+
+<p>But the delights of Yen-ping are somewhat tempered
+by the abominable weather. In summer the heat is almost
+unbearable and the air is so nearly saturated from
+continual rain that it is impossible to dry anything except
+over a fire. From all reports winter must be almost
+as bad in the opposite extreme for the cold is damp
+and penetrating; but the early fall is said to be delightful.</p>
+
+<p>The larger part of Fukien, like many other provinces
+in China, has been denuded of forests, and the groves
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_25">- 25 -</span>
+of pine which remain have all been planted. This deforestation
+consequently has driven out the game, and
+except for tigers, leopards, wolves, wild pigs, serows and
+gorals, none of the large species is left. However, the
+dense growth of sword grass and the thorny bushes
+which clothe the hills and choke the ravines give cover to
+muntjac, or barking deer, and many species of small
+cats, civets, and other Viverines. These animals come
+to the rice paddys, which fill every valley, to hunt for
+frogs and fish, but it is difficult to catch them because
+of the Chinese who are continually at work in the fields.</p>
+
+<p>We spent a week trapping about Yen-ping and although
+we caught a good many animals they were almost
+always stolen together with the traps. We had this
+same difficulty in Yün-nan as well as in Fukien. None
+of us had ever seen natives in any part of the world who
+were such unmitigated thieves as the Chinese of these
+two provinces. The small mammals are hardly more
+abundant than the larger ones for the natives wage an
+unceasing war on those about the rice paddys and have
+exterminated nearly all but a few widely distributed
+forms.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_26">- 26 -</span></p>
+
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_IV">CHAPTER IV</h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class="caption3">A BAT CAVE IN THE BIG RAVINE</p>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">A few</span> days after our arrival in Yen-ping we went
+with Mr. Caldwell and his son Oliver to a Taoist temple
+seven miles away in a lonely ravine known as Chi-yuen-kang.
+The walk to the temple in the early morning
+was delightful. The "bamboo chickens" and francolins
+were calling all about us and on the way we shot
+enough for our first day's dinner. Both these birds
+are abundant in Fukien Province but it is by no means
+easy to kill them for they live in such thick cover that
+they can only be flushed with difficulty.</p>
+
+<p>Early in the morning we frequently heard the francolins
+crowing in the trees or on the top of a hill and
+when a cock had taken possession of such a spot the intrusion
+of another was almost sure to cause trouble
+which only ended when one of them had been driven
+off.</p>
+
+<p>For two miles and a half the Big Ravine is a narrow
+cut between perpendicular rock walls thickly clothed
+to their very summits with bamboo and a tangle of
+thorny vines. In the bottom of the gorge a mountain
+torrent foams among huge bowlders but becomes a gentle,
+slow moving stream when it leaves the cool darkness
+of the cañon to spread itself over the terraced rice
+fields.</p>
+
+<p>About a mile from the entrance two old temples nestle
+into the hillside. One stands just over the water,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_27">- 27 -</span>
+but the other clings to the rock wall three hundred feet
+above the river, and it was there that we made our
+camp.</p>
+
+<p>The old priest in charge did not appear especially
+delighted to see us until I slipped a Mexican dollar into
+his hand—then it was laughable to see his change of
+face. The far end of the balcony was given up to us
+while Mr. Caldwell and Oliver put up their beds at
+the feet of a grinning idol in the main temple.</p>
+
+<p>We had come to Chi-yuen-kang to hunt serow (<i>see</i>
+Chapter XVII) and had brought with us only a few
+traps for small mammals. Harry had seen several
+serow exhibited for sale on market days in towns along
+the river, and all were reported to have been killed near
+this ravine. There was a village of considerable size
+at the upper end and here we collected a motley lot of
+beaters with half a dozen dogs to drive the top of a
+mountain which towered about two thousand five hundred
+feet above the river.</p>
+
+<p>Never will we forget that climb! We tried to start
+at daylight but it was well toward six o'clock before we
+got our men together. A Chinaman would drive an
+impatient man to apoplexy and an early grave for it
+is well-nigh impossible to get him started within an
+hour of the appointed time, and with a half dozen the
+difficulty is multiplied as many times. Just when you
+think all is ready and that there can be no possible reason
+for delaying longer, the whole crowd will disappear
+suddenly and you discover that they have gone
+for "chow." Then you know that the end is really in
+sight, for chow usually is the last thing.</p>
+
+<p>We waited nearly two hours on this particular morning
+before we started on the long climb to the top of the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_28">- 28 -</span>
+mountain. The sun was simply blazing, and in fifteen
+minutes we were soaked with perspiration. When we
+were half way up the dogs disappeared in a small
+ravine overgrown with bamboo and sword grass and
+suddenly broke into a chorus of yelps. They had found
+a fresh trail and were driving our way.</p>
+
+<p>Harry ran to a narrow opening in the jungle, shouting
+to us to watch another higher up. We were hardly
+in position when his rifle banged, followed by such a
+bedlam of yells and barks that we thought he must
+have killed nothing less than one of the hunters. Before
+we reached them Harry appeared, smiling all over,
+and dragging a muntjac (<i>Muntiacus</i>) by the fore legs.
+He had just made a beautiful shot, for the clearing he
+had been watching was not more than ten feet wide and
+the muntjac flashed across it at full speed. Caldwell
+fired while it was in mid-air and his bullet caught the
+animal at the base of the neck, rolling it over stone
+dead.</p>
+
+<p>This beautiful little deer in Fukien is hardly larger
+than a fox. Its antlers are only two or three inches in
+length and rise from an elongated skin-covered pedicel
+instead of from the base of the skull as in all other members
+of the deer family. On each side of the upper jaw
+is a slender tusk, about two inches long, which projects
+well beyond the lips and makes a rather formidable
+weapon.</p>
+
+<p>We hoped that this muntjac was going to prove a
+"good joss," but instead a disappointing day was in
+store for us. When we had worked our way to the very
+summit of the mountain under a merciless sun and over
+a trail which led through a smothering bamboo jungle,
+we saw dozens of fresh serow tracks. The animals were
+there without a doubt and we were on the <i>qui vive</i> with
+excitement.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" id="img_f28a" style="width: 367px;">
+ <img src="images/img_f28a.png" width="367" height="285" alt="" />
+ <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">A Chinese Hunter and a Muntjac</span></div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" id="img_f28b" style="width: 351px;">
+ <img src="images/img_f28b.png" width="351" height="288" alt="" />
+ <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">Brigands Killed in the Yen-ping Rebellion</span></div>
+</div>
+
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_29">- 29 -</span></p>
+
+<p>We selected positions and the men made a long circuit
+to drive toward us as Caldwell had directed. After
+half an hour had passed we heard them yelling as they
+closed in, but what was our disgust to see them solemnly
+parading in single file up the bottom of the valley on
+an open trail and carefully avoiding all thickets where
+a serow could possibly be. As Harry expressed it, "all
+the animals had to do was to sit tight and watch the
+noble procession pass." The beaters very evidently knew
+nothing whatever about driving nor were we able to
+teach them, for they seriously objected to leaving the
+open trails and going into the bush.</p>
+
+<p>We worked hard for serow but the men were hopeless
+and it was impossible to "still hunt" the animals
+at that time of the year. The natives say that in September
+when the mushrooms are abundant in the lower
+forests the serow leave the mountain tops and thick
+cover to feed upon the fungus, and that they may be
+killed without the aid of beaters, but at any time the
+hunt would involve a vast amount of labor with only a
+moderate chance of success. After we had left Fukien,
+Mr. Caldwell purchased a fine male and female serow
+for us which are especially interesting as they represent
+a different subspecies (<i>Capricornis sumatrensis argyrochætes</i>)
+from those we killed in Yün-nan.</p>
+
+<p>Chi-yuen-kang did yield us results, however, for we
+discovered a wonderful bat cave less than a mile from
+our temple. Its entrance was a low round hole half
+covered with vegetation, and opening into a high circular
+gallery; from this three long corridors branched
+off like fingers from the palm of a giant's hand. The
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_30">- 30 -</span>
+cave was literally alive with bats. There must have
+been ten thousand and on the first day we killed a
+hundred, representing seven species and at least four
+genera. This was especially remarkable as it is unusual
+to find more than two or three species living together.</p>
+
+<p>The cave was a regular bat apartment house for each
+corridor was divided by rock partitions into several
+small rooms in every one of which bats of different
+species were rearing their families. The young in most
+instances were only a few days old but were thickly
+clustered on the walls and ceilings, and each and every
+one was squeaking at the top of its tiny lungs. The
+place must have been occupied for scores, if not hundreds,
+of years for the floor was knee-deep with dung.</p>
+
+<p>When we returned the day after our first visit we
+found that many of the young bats had been removed
+by their parents and in some instances entire rooms
+had been vacated. After the first day the odor of the
+cave was so nauseating that to enable us to go inside
+it was necessary to wear gauze pads of iodoform over
+our noses.</p>
+
+<p>The bats at this place were killed with bamboo
+switches but later we always used a long gill net which
+had been especially made in New York. We could hang
+the net over the entrance to a cave and, when all was
+ready, send a native into the galleries to stir up the
+animals. As they flew out they became entangled in
+the net and could be caught or killed before they were
+able to get away. It was sometimes possible to catch
+every specimen in a cavern, and moreover, to secure them
+in perfect condition without broken skulls or wings.</p>
+
+<p>If a bat escaped from the net it would never again
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_31">- 31 -</span>
+strike it, for the animals are wonderfully accurate in
+flight and most expert dodgers. Even while in a cave,
+where hundreds of bats were in the air, they seldom
+flew against us, although we might often be brushed
+by their wings; and it was a most difficult thing to hit
+them with a bamboo switch. Their ability in dodging
+is without doubt a necessary development of their feeding
+habits for, with the exception of a few species, bats
+live exclusively upon insects and catch them in the
+air.</p>
+
+<p>It is a rather terrifying experience for a girl to sit
+in a bat cave especially if the light has gone out and
+she is in utter darkness. Of course she has a cap tightly
+pulled over her ears, for what girl, even if she be a
+naturalist's wife, would venture into a den of evil bats
+with one wisp of hair exposed!</p>
+
+<p>All about is the swish of ghostly wings which brush
+her face or neck and the air is full of chattering noises
+like the grinding of hundreds of tiny teeth. Sometimes
+a soft little body plumps into her lap and if she dares
+to take her hands from her face long enough to disengage
+the clinging animal she is liable to receive a vicious
+bite from teeth as sharp as needles. But, withal, it is
+good fun, and think how quickly formalin jars or collecting
+trays can be filled with beautiful specimens!</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_32">- 32 -</span></p>
+
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_V">CHAPTER V</h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class="caption3">THE YEN-PING REBELLION</p>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">On</span> Sunday, June 18, we went to the bat cave to
+obtain a new supply of specimens. Upon our return,
+just as we were about to sit down to luncheon, four
+excited Chinese appeared with the following letter from
+Mr. Caldwell:</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Dear Roy:</span></p>
+
+<p>There was quite a lively time in the city at an early hour this
+morning. The rebels have taken Yen-ping and it looks as
+though there was trouble ahead. Northern soldiers have been
+sent for and the chances are that either tonight or tomorrow
+morning there will be quite a battle. Bankhardt, Dr. Trimble
+and myself have just made a round of the city, visiting the
+telegraph office, post office and other places, and while we do
+not believe that the foreigners will be molested, nevertheless it
+is impossible to tell just what to expect. It is certain, however,
+that the Consul will order all of us to Foochow if news of
+the situation reaches there. Owing to the uncertainty, I think
+you had better come in to Yen-ping so as to be ready for any
+eventuality.</p>
+
+<p>After talking the situation over with Dr. Trimble and Mr.
+Bankhardt, we all agreed that the wisest thing is for you to
+come in immediately. I am sending four burden-bearers for it
+will be out of the question to find any tomorrow, if trouble
+occurs tonight. The city gates are closed so you will have to
+climb up the ladder over the wall behind our compound. Best
+wishes.</p>
+
+<p class="tdr">
+<span class="smcap">Harry.</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_33">- 33 -</span></p>
+
+<p>P. S.—Later: It is again reported that Northern soldiers
+are to arrive tonight. If they do and trouble occurs your only
+chance is to get to Yen-ping today.</p>
+
+<p class="tdr">
+H. C.<br />
+</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The camp immediately was thrown into confusion for
+Da-Ming, the cook, and the burden-bearers were jabbering
+excitedly at the top of their voices. The servants
+began to pack the loads at once and meanwhile
+we ate a roast chicken faster than good table manners
+would permit—in fact, we took it in our fingers. We
+were both delighted at the prospect of some excitement
+and talked almost as fast as the Chinese.</p>
+
+<p>In just one hour from the time Harry's letter had
+been received, we were on the way to Yen-ping. It was
+the hottest part of the day, and we were dripping with
+perspiration when we left the cool darkness of the ravine
+and struck across the open valley, which lay shimmering
+in a furnace-like heat. At the first rest house
+an the top of the long hill we waited nearly an hour
+for our bearers who were struggling under the heavy
+loads.</p>
+
+<p>Three miles farther on a poor woman tottered past
+us on her peglike feet leaning on the arm of a man. A
+short distance more and we came to the second rest
+house. We had been there but a few moments when
+three panting women, steadying themselves with long
+staves and barely able to walk on feet not more than
+four inches long, came up the hill. With them were
+several men bearing household goods in large bundles
+and huge red boxes.</p>
+
+<p>The exhausted women sank upon the benches and
+fanned themselves while the perspiration ran down their
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_34">- 34 -</span>
+flushed faces. They looked so utterly miserable that
+we told the cook to give them a piece of cake which
+Mrs. Caldwell had sent us the day before. Their gratitude
+was pitiful, but, of course, they gave the larger
+share to the men.</p>
+
+<p>It was not long before other women and children
+appeared on the hill path, all struggling upward under
+heavy loads, or tottering along on tightly bound feet.
+Probably these women had not walked so far in their
+entire lives, but the fear of the Northern soldiers and
+what would happen in the city if they took possession
+had driven them from their homes.</p>
+
+<p>Farther on we had a clear view across the valley
+where a long line of people was filing up to a temple
+which nestled into the hillside. Half a mile beyond
+were two other temples both crowded with refugees
+and their goods. Hundreds of families were seeking
+shelter in every little house beside the road and were
+overflowing into the cowsheds and pigpens.</p>
+
+<p>At six o'clock we stood on the summit of the hill overlooking
+the city and half an hour later were clambering
+up the ladder over the high wall of the compound, just
+behind Dr. Trimble's house. We were wet through and
+while cooling off heard the story of the morning's fighting.
+It seemed that a certain element in the city was in
+coöperation with the representatives of the revolutionary
+organization. These men wished to obtain possession
+of Yen-ping and, after the rebellion was well started,
+to gather forces, march to Foochow, and force the Governor
+to declare the independence of the province.</p>
+
+<p>The plot had been hatching for several days, but the
+death of Yuan Shi-kai had somewhat delayed its fruition.
+Saturday, however, it was known throughout the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_35">- 35 -</span>
+city that trouble would soon begin. Sunday morning
+at half past three, a band of one hundred men from
+Yuchi had marched to Yen-ping where they were received
+by a delegation of rebels dressed in white who
+opened to them the east gate of the city. Immediately
+they began to fire up the streets to intimidate the people
+and in a short time were in a hot engagement with
+the seventeen Northern soldiers, some of whom threw
+away their guns and swam across the river. The remaining
+city troops were from the province of Hunan
+and their sympathies were really with the South in the
+great rebellion. These immediately joined the rebels,
+where they were received with open arms. It was reported
+that the <i>tao-tai</i> (district mandarin) had asked
+for troops from Foochow and that these might be expected
+at any moment; thus when they arrived a real
+battle could be expected and it was very likely that the
+city would be partly destroyed.</p>
+
+<p>We had a picnic supper on the Caldwell's porch and
+discussed the situation. It was the opinion of all that
+the foreigners were in no immediate danger, but nevertheless
+it was considered wise to be prepared, and we
+decided upon posts for each man if it should become
+necessary to protect the compound.</p>
+
+<p>Hundreds of people were besieging the missionaries
+with requests to be allowed to bring their goods and
+families inside the walls, but these necessarily had to be
+refused. Had the missionaries allowed the Chinese to
+bring their valuables inside it would have cost them the
+right of Consular protection and, moreover, their compound
+would have been the first to be attacked if looting began.</p>
+
+<p>On Monday morning while we were sitting on the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_36">- 36 -</span>
+porch of Mr. Caldwell's house preparing some bird
+skins, there came a sharp crackle of rifle fire and then
+a roar of shots. Bullets began to whistle over us and
+we could see puffs of smoke as the deep bang of a
+black powder gun punctuated the vicious snapping of
+the high-power rifles. The firing gradually ceased after
+half an hour and we decided to go down to the city to
+see what had happened, for, as no Northern troops had
+appeared, the cause of the fighting was a mystery.</p>
+
+<p>We went first to the mission hospital which lay
+across a deep ravine and only a few yards from the
+quarters of the soldiers. At the door of the hospital
+compound lay a bloody rag, and we found Dr. Trimble
+in the operating room examining a wounded man who
+had just been brought in. The fellow had been shot
+in the abdomen with a 45-caliber lead ball that had gone
+entirely through him, emerging about three inches to
+the right of his spine.</p>
+
+<p>From the doctor we got the first real news of the
+puzzling situation. It appeared that all the men who had
+arrived Sunday morning from Yuchi to join the Yen-ping
+rebels were in reality brigands and, to save their
+own lives, the Hunan soldiers quartered in the city had
+played a clever trick. They had pretended to join the
+rebels but at a given signal had turned upon them,
+killing or capturing almost every one. Although their
+sympathies were really with the South, the Hunan men
+knew that the rebels in Yen-ping could not hold the
+city against the Northern soldiers from Foochow and,
+by crushing the rebellion themselves, they hoped to
+avert a bigger fight.</p>
+
+<p>As we could not help the doctor he suggested that
+we might be of some assistance to the wounded in the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_37">- 37 -</span>
+city, and with rude crosses of red cloth pinned to our
+white shirt sleeves we left the hospital, accompanied
+by four Chinese attendants bearing a stretcher. In
+the compound we met a chair in which was lying an old
+man groaning loudly and dripping with blood. Beside
+him were his wife and several boys. The poor woman
+was crying quietly and, between her sobs, was offering
+the wounded man mustard pickles from a small
+dish in her hand! Poor things, they have so little to
+eat that they believe food will cure all ills!</p>
+
+<p>The bearers set the chair down as we appeared and
+lifted the filthy rag which covered a gaping wound in
+the man's shoulder, over which had been plastered a
+great mass of cow dung. Just think of the infection,
+but it was the only remedy they knew!</p>
+
+<p>We took the man upstairs where Dr. Trimble was
+preparing to operate on the fellow who had been shot
+in the abdomen. The doctor was working steadily and
+quietly, making every move count and inspiring his native
+hospital staff with his own coolness; the way this
+young missionary handled his cases made us glad that
+he was an American.</p>
+
+<p>On the way down the hill several soldiers passed us,
+each carrying four or five rifles and slung about with
+cartridge belts—plunder stripped from the men who
+had been killed. A few hundred yards farther on we
+found two brigands lying dead in a narrow street. The
+nearest one had fallen on his face and, as we turned him
+over, we saw that half his head had been blown away;
+the other was staring upward with wide open eyes on
+which the flies already were settling in swarms.</p>
+
+<p>There was little use in wasting time over these men
+who long ago had passed beyond need of our help, and
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_38">- 38 -</span>
+we went on rapidly down the alley to the main thoroughfare.
+Guided by a small boy, we hurried over the
+rough stones for fifteen minutes, and suddenly came
+to a man lying at the side of the street, his head propped
+on a wooden block. An umbrella once had partly covered
+him but had fallen away, leaving him unprotected
+in the broiling sun. His face and a terrible wound in
+his head were a solid mass of flies, and thousands of
+insects were crawling over the blood clots on the stones
+beside him. At first we thought he was dead but soon
+saw his abdomen move and realized that he was breathing.
+It did not seem possible that a human being could
+live under such conditions; and yet the bystanders told
+us that he had been lying there for thirty hours—he
+had been shot early the previous morning and it was
+now three o'clock of the next afternoon.</p>
+
+<p>The man was a poor water-carrier who lived with his
+wife in the most utter poverty. He had been peering
+over the city wall when the firing began Sunday morning
+and was one of the first innocent bystanders to pay
+the penalty of his curiosity. I asked why he had not
+been taken to the hospital, and the answer was that
+his wife was too poor to hire anyone to carry him and
+he had no friends. So there he lay in the burning sun,
+gazed at by hundreds of passers-by, without one hand
+being lifted to help him.</p>
+
+<p>Our hospital attendants brushed away the flies, placed
+him in the stretcher and started up the long hill, followed
+by the haggard, weeping wife and a curious crowd.
+On every hand were questions: "Why are these men
+taking him away?" "What are they going to do with
+him?" But several educated natives who understood
+said, "<b>Ing-ai-gidaiie</b>" (A work of love). They got right
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_39">- 39 -</span>
+there a lesson in Christianity which they will not soon
+forget. It is seldom that Chinese try to help an injured
+man, for ever present in their minds is the possibility
+that he may die and that they will be responsible for
+his burial expenses.</p>
+
+<p>We left the stretcher bearers at the corner of the main
+street with orders to return as soon as they had deposited
+the man in the hospital and, under the guidance
+of a boy, hurried toward the east gate where it was said
+seven or eight men had been shot. Our guide took us
+first to a brigand who had been wounded and left to
+die beside the gutter. The corpse was a horrible sight
+and with a feeling of deathly nausea we made a hurried
+examination and walked to the gate at the end
+of the street.</p>
+
+<p>A dozen soldiers were on guard. We learned from
+the officer that there were no wounded in the pile of
+dead just beyond the entrance, so we turned toward the
+river bank and rapidly patrolled the alleys leading to
+the <i>tao-tai's yamen</i> (official residence) where the firing
+had been heaviest. The <i>yamen</i> was crowded with soldiers,
+and we were informed that the dead had all been
+removed and that there were no wounded—a grim
+statement which told its own story.</p>
+
+<p>The <i>yamen</i> is but a short distance from the hospital
+so we climbed the hill to the compound. The sun was
+simply blazing and I realized then what the wounded
+men must have suffered lying in the heat without shelter.
+We returned to the house and were resting on the
+upper porch when suddenly, far down the river, we
+saw the glint of rifle barrels in the sunlight, and with
+field glasses made out a long line of khaki-clad men
+winding along the shore trail. At the same time two
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_40">- 40 -</span>
+huge boats filled with soldiers came into view heading
+for the water gate of the city. These were undoubtedly
+the Northern troops from Foochow who were expected Monday night.</p>
+
+<p>Even as we looked there came a sudden roar of
+musketry and a cloud of smoke drifted up from the
+barracks right below us—then a rattling fusillade of
+shots. We could see soldiers running along the walls
+firing at men below and often in our direction. Bullets
+hummed in the air like angry bees and we rushed for
+cover, but in a few moments the firing ceased as suddenly
+as it began.</p>
+
+<p>We were at a loss to know what it all meant and
+why the troops were firing upon the Northern soldiers
+whom they wished to placate. It was still a mystery
+when we sat down to dinner at half past seven, but a
+few minutes later Mr. Bankhardt rushed in saying that
+he had just received a note from the <i>tao-tai</i>. The mandarin's
+personal servant had brought word that the
+Northern soldiers, who had just entered the city, were
+going to kill him and he begged the missionaries for
+assistance. Bankhardt also told us of the latest developments
+in the situation. It seems that the city soldiers
+supposed the Northern troops to be brigands and
+had fired upon them and killed several before they discovered
+their mistake. A very delicate situation had
+thus been precipitated, for the Northern commander
+believed that it was treachery and intended to attack
+the barracks in the morning and kill every man whom
+he found with a rifle, as well as all the city officials.</p>
+
+<p>The story of the way in which the missionaries acted
+as peacemakers, saved the <i>tao-tai</i>, and prevented the
+slaughter which surely would have taken place in the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_41">- 41 -</span>
+morning, is too long to be told here, for it was accomplished
+only after hours of the talk and "face saving"
+so dear to the heart of the Oriental. Suffice it to say
+that through the exercise of great tact and a thorough
+understanding of the Chinese character they were able
+to settle the matter without bloodshed.</p>
+
+<p>The following day twenty brigands were given a so-called
+trial, marched off to the west gate, beheaded amid
+great enthusiasm, and the incident was closed. In the
+afternoon a messenger called and delivered to each of
+us an official letter from the commander of the Northern
+troops thanking us for the part we had played in averting
+trouble and bringing the matter to a peaceful end.</p>
+
+<p>An interesting sidelight on the affair was received
+a few days later. A young man, a Christian, who was
+born in the same town from which a number of the
+brigands had come, went to his house on Monday night
+after the fight and found seven of the robbers concealed
+in his bedroom. He was terrified because if they were
+discovered he and all his family would be killed for aiding
+the bandits. He told them they must leave at once,
+but they pleaded with him to let them stay for they
+knew there were soldiers at every corner and that it
+would be impossible to get away.</p>
+
+<p>While he was imploring them to go, a knock sounded
+at the door. He pushed the brigands into the courtyard,
+and opened to three soldiers. They said: "We
+understand you have brigands in your house." He
+was trembling with fear, but answered, "Come in and
+see for yourself, if you think so."</p>
+
+<p>The soldiers were satisfied by his frank open manner
+and, as they knew him to be a good man, did not
+search the house, but went away. The poor fellow was
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_42">- 42 -</span>
+frightened nearly to death, but as his place was being
+watched it was impossible for the brigands to leave
+during the day.</p>
+
+<p>At night they stripped themselves, shaved their heads,
+and dressed like coolies, and were able to get to the
+ladder down the city wall just below the mission compound
+where they could escape into the hills.</p>
+
+<p>The day after this occurrence, about four o'clock in
+the afternoon, a breathless Chinese appeared at the
+house with a note to Mr. Bankhardt saying that his
+Chinese teacher and the mission school cook had been
+arrested by the Northern soldiers and were to be beheaded
+in an hour. We hurried to the police office
+where they were confined and found that not only the
+two men but three others were in custody.</p>
+
+<p>The mission cook owned a small restaurant under the
+management of one of his relatives and, while Bankhardt's
+teacher and the other man were sitting at a
+table, some Northern soldiers appeared, one of whom
+owed the restaurant keeper a small amount of money.
+When asked to pay, the soldier turned upon him and
+shouted: "You have been assisting the brigands. I saw
+some of them carrying goods into your house." Thereupon
+the soldiers arrested everyone in the shop.</p>
+
+<p>The police officials were quite ready to release the
+teacher and the other man upon our statements, but
+they would not allow the cook to go. His hands were
+kept tightly bound and he was chained to a post by
+the neck. The soldier who arrested him was his sole
+accuser, but of course, others would appear to uphold
+him in his charge if it were necessary.</p>
+
+<p>The cook was as innocent as any one of the missionaries,
+but it required several hours of work and threats
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_43">- 43 -</span>
+of complaint to the government at Foochow to prevent
+the man from being summarily executed.</p>
+
+<p>We were not able to get any mail from Foochow
+during the rebellion because the constant stream of
+Northern soldiers on their way up the river had paralyzed
+the entire country to such an extent that all the
+river men had fled.</p>
+
+<p>The soldiers were firing for target practice upon
+every boat they saw on the river and dozens of men
+had been killed and then robbed. The Northern commander
+told us frankly that this could not be prevented,
+and when we announced that we were going to
+start with all the missionaries down the river on the
+following day, he was very much disturbed. He insisted
+that we have American flags displayed on our
+boats to prevent being fired upon by the soldiers.</p>
+
+<p>Although it had taken eight days to work our way
+laboriously through the rapids and up the river from
+Foochow to Yen-ping, we covered the same distance
+down the river in twenty-four hours and had breakfast
+with Mr. Kellogg at his house the morning after we
+left Yen-ping. In two days our equipment was repacked
+and ready for the trip to Futsing to hunt the
+blue tiger.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_44">- 44 -</span></p>
+
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_VI">CHAPTER VI</h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class="caption3">HUNTING THE "GREAT INVISIBLE"</p>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">For</span> many years before Mr. Caldwell went to Yen-ping
+he had been stationed at the city of Futsing, about
+thirty miles from Foochow. Much of his work consisted
+of itinerant trips during which he visited the
+various mission stations under his charge. He almost
+invariably went on foot from place to place and carried
+with him a butterfly net and a rifle, so that to so
+keen a naturalist each day's walk was full of interest.</p>
+
+<p>The country was infested with man-eating tigers,
+and very often the villagers implored him to rid their
+neighborhood of some one of the yellow raiders which
+had been killing their children, pigs, or cattle. During
+ten years he had killed seven tigers in the Futsing
+region. He often said that his gun had been just as
+effective in carrying Christianity to the natives as had
+his evangelistic work. Although Mr. Caldwell has been
+especially fortunate and has killed his tigers without
+ever really hunting them, nevertheless it is a most uncertain
+sport as we were destined to learn. The tiger is
+the "Great Invisible"—he is everywhere and nowhere,
+here today and gone tomorrow. A sportsman in China
+may get his shot the first day out or he may hunt for
+weeks without ever seeing a tiger even though they
+are all about him; and it is this very uncertainty that
+makes the game all the more fascinating.</p>
+
+<p>The part of Fukien Province about Futsing includes
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_45">- 45 -</span>
+mountains of considerable height, many of which are
+planted with rice and support a surprising number of
+Chinese who are grouped in closely connected villages.
+While the cultivated valleys afford no cover for tiger
+and the mountain slopes themselves are usually more or
+less denuded of forest, yet the deep and narrow ravines,
+choked with sword grass and thorny bramble, offer an
+impenetrable retreat in which an animal can sleep during
+the day without fear of being disturbed. It is
+possible for a man to make his way through these lairs
+only by means of the paths and tunnels which have been
+opened by the tigers themselves.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Caldwell's usual method of hunting was to lead
+a goat with one or two kids to an open place where
+they could be fastened just outside the edge of the lair,
+and then to conceal himself a few feet away. The bleating
+of the goats would usually bring the tiger into the
+open where there would be an opportunity for a shot
+in the late afternoon.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Caldwell's first experience in hunting tigers was
+with a shotgun at the village of Lung-tao. His burden-bearers
+had not arrived with the basket containing his
+rifle, and as it was already late in the afternoon, he suggested
+to Da-Da, the Chinese boy who was his constant
+companion, that they make a preliminary inspection
+of the lair even though they carried only shotguns loaded
+with lead slugs about the size of buckshot.</p>
+
+<p>They tethered a goat just outside the edge of the
+lair and the tiger responded to its bleating almost immediately.
+Caldwell did not see the animal until it
+came into the open about fifty yards away and remained
+in plain view for almost half an hour. The
+tiger seemed to suspect danger and crouched on the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_46">- 46 -</span>
+terrace, now and then putting his right foot forward
+a short distance and drawing it slowly back again. He
+had approached along a small trail, but before he could
+reach the goat it was necessary to cross an open space
+a few yards in width, and to do this the animal flattened
+himself like a huge striped serpent. His head
+was extended so that the throat and chin were touching
+the ground, and there was absolutely no motion
+of the body other than the hips and shoulders as the
+beast slid along at an amazingly rapid rate. But at
+the instant the cat gained the nearest cover it made
+three flying leaps and landed at the foot of the terrace
+upon which the goat was tied.</p>
+
+<p>"Just then he saw me," said Mr. Caldwell, "and
+slowly pushed his great black-barred face over the edge
+of the grass not fifteen feet away.</p>
+
+<p>"I fired point-blank at his head and neck. He leaped
+into the air with the blood spurting over the grass,
+and fell into a heap, but gathered himself and slid down
+over the terraces. As he went I fired a second load of
+slugs into his hip. He turned about, slowly climbed the
+hill parallel with us, and stood looking back at me, his
+face streaming with blood.</p>
+
+<p>"I was fumbling in my coat trying to find other
+shells, but before I could reload the gun he walked
+unsteadily into the lair and lay down. It was already
+too dark to follow and the next morning a bloody trail
+showed where he had gone upward into the grass.
+Later, in the same afternoon, he was found dead by
+some Chinese more than three miles away."</p>
+
+<p>During his many experiences with the Futsing tigers
+Mr. Caldwell has learned much about their habits and
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_47">- 47 -</span>
+peculiarities, and some of his observations are given
+in the following pages.</p>
+
+<p>"The tiger is by instinct a coward when confronted
+by his greatest enemy—man. Bold and daring as he
+may be when circumstances are in his favor, he will hurriedly
+abandon a fresh kill at the first cry of a shepherd
+boy attending a flock on the mountain-side and will
+always weigh conditions before making an attack. If
+things do not exactly suit him nothing will tempt him
+to charge into the open upon what may appear to be an
+isolated and defenseless goat.</p>
+
+<p>"An experience I had in April, 1910, will illustrate
+this point. I led a goat into a ravine where a tiger which
+had been working havoc among the herds of the farmers
+was said to live. This animal only a few days previous
+to my hunt had attacked a herd of cows and killed three
+of them, but on this occasion the beast must have suspected
+danger and was exceedingly cautious. He advanced
+under cover along a trail until within one hundred
+feet of the goat and there stopped to make a survey
+of the surroundings. Peering into the valley, he
+saw two men at a distance of five hundred yards or
+more cutting grass and, after watching intently for a
+time, the great cat turned and bounded away into the
+bushes.</p>
+
+<p>"On another occasion this tiger awaited an opportunity
+to attack a cow which a farmer was using in
+plowing his field. The man had unhitched his cow
+and squatted down in the rice paddy to eat his mid-day
+meal, when the tiger suddenly rushed from cover and
+killed the animal only a few yards behind the peasant.
+This shows how daring a tiger may be when he is able
+to strike from the rear, and when circumstances seem
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_48">- 48 -</span>
+to favor an attack. I have known tigers to rush at a
+dog or hog standing inside a Chinese house where there
+was the usual confusion of such a dwelling, and in almost
+every instance the victim was killed, although it
+was not always carried away.</p>
+
+<p>"There is probably no creature in the wilds which
+shows such a combination of daring strategy and slinking
+cowardice as the tiger. Often courage fails him
+after he has secured his victim, and he releases it to dash
+off into the nearest wood.</p>
+
+<p>"I knew of two Chinese who were deer hunting on a
+mountain-side when a large tiger was routed from his
+bed. The beast made a rushing attack on the man
+standing nearest to the path of his retreat, and seizing
+him by the leg dragged him into the ravine below.
+Luckily the man succeeded in grasping a small tree
+whereupon the tiger released his hold, leaving his victim
+lying upon the ground almost paralyzed with pain and
+fear.</p>
+
+<p>"A group of men were gathering fuel on the hills
+near Futsing when a tiger which had been sleeping in
+the high grass was disturbed. The enraged beast
+tinned upon the peasants, killing two of them instantly
+and striking another a ripping blow with his paw which
+sent him lifeless to the terrace below. The beast did
+not attempt to drag either of its victims into the bush
+or to attack the other persons near by.</p>
+
+<p>"The strength and vitality of a full grown tiger are
+amazing. I had occasion to spend the night a short time
+ago in a place where a tiger had performed some remarkable
+feats. Just at dusk one of these marauders
+visited the village and discovered a cow and her six-months-old
+calf in a pen which had been excavated in
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_49">- 49 -</span>
+the side of a hill and adjoined a house. There was no
+possible way to enter the enclosure except by a door
+opening from the main part of the dwelling or to descend
+from above. The tiger jumped from the roof
+upon the neck of the heifer, killing it instantly, and the
+inmates of the house opened the door just in time to see
+the animal throw the calf out bodily and leap after it
+himself. I measured the embankment and found that
+the exact height was twelve and a half feet.</p>
+
+<p>"The same tiger one noon on a foggy day attacked
+a hog, just back of the village and carried it into the
+hills. The villagers pursued the beast and overtook
+it within half a mile. When the hog, which dressed
+weighed more than two hundred pounds, was found,
+it had no marks or bruises upon it other than the deep
+fang wounds in the neck. This is another instance
+where courage failed a tiger after he had made off with
+his kill to a safe distance. The Chinese declare that
+when carrying such a load a tiger never attempts to
+drag its prey, but throws it across its back and races
+off at top speed.</p>
+
+<p>"The finest trophy taken from Fukien Province in
+years I shot in May, 1910. Two days previous to my
+hunt this tiger had killed and eaten a sixteen-year-old
+boy. I happened to be in the locality and decided to
+make an attempt to dispose of the troublesome beast.
+Obtaining a mother goat with two small kids, I led them
+into a ravine near where the boy had been killed. The
+goat was tied to a tree a short distance from the lair,
+and the kids were concealed in the tall grass well in
+toward the place where the tiger would probably be.
+I selected a suitable spot and kneeled down behind a
+bank of ferns and grass. The fact that one may be
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_50">- 50 -</span>
+stalked by the very beast which one is hunting adds to
+the excitement and keeps one's nerves on edge. I expected
+that the tiger would approach stealthily as long
+as he could not see the goat, as the usual plan of attack,
+so far as my observation goes, is to creep up under
+cover as far as possible before rushing into the open.
+In any case the tiger would be within twenty yards of
+me before it could be seen.</p>
+
+<p>"For more than two hours I sat perfectly still, alert
+and waiting, behind the little blind of ferns and grass.
+There was nothing to break the silence other than the
+incessant bleating of the goats and the unpleasant rasping
+call of the mountain jay. I had about given up hope
+of a shot when suddenly the huge head of the man-eater
+emerged from the bush, exactly where I had expected
+he would appear and within fifteen feet of the
+kids. The back, neck, and head of the beast were in
+almost the same plane as he moved noiselessly forward.</p>
+
+<p>"I had implicit confidence in the killing power of the
+gun in my hand, and at the crack of the rifle the huge
+brute settled forward with hardly a quiver not ten
+feet from the kids upon which he was about to spring.
+A second shot was not necessary but was fired as a
+matter of precaution as the tiger had fallen behind rank
+grass, and the bullet passed through the shoulder blade
+lodging in the spine. The beast measured more than
+nine feet and weighed almost four hundred pounds.</p>
+
+<p>"Upon hearing the shots the villagers swarmed into
+the ravine, each eager not so much to see their slain tormentor
+as to gather up the blood. But little attention
+was paid to the tiger until every available drop was
+sopped up with rags torn from their clothing, whilst men
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_51">- 51 -</span>
+and children even pulled up the blood-soaked grass. I
+learned that the blood of a tiger is used for two purposes.
+A bit of blood-stained cloth is tied about the
+neck of a child as a preventive against either measles
+or smallpox, and tiger flesh is eaten for the same purpose.
+It is also said that if a handkerchief stained with
+tiger blood is waved in front of an attacking dog the
+animal will slink away cowed and terrified.</p>
+
+<p>"From the Chinese point of view the skin is not the
+most valuable part of a tiger. Almost always before a
+hunt is made, or a trap is built, the villagers hum incense
+before the temple god, and an agreement is made
+to the effect that if the enterprise be successful the skin
+of the beast taken becomes the property of the gods.
+Thus it happens that in many of the temples handsome
+tiger-skin robes may be found spread in the chair occupied
+by the noted 'Duai Uong,' or the god of the
+land. When a hunt is successful, the flesh and bones are
+considered of greatest value, and it often happens that
+a number of cows are killed and their flesh mixed with
+that of the tiger to be sold at the exorbitant price cheerfully
+paid for tiger meat. The bones are boiled for a
+number of days until a gelatine-like product results,
+and this is believed to be exceptionally efficacious medicine.</p>
+
+<p>"Notwithstanding the danger of still-hunting a tiger
+in the tangle of its lair, one cannot but feel richly rewarded
+for the risk when one begins to sum up one's
+observations. The most interesting result of investigating
+an oft-frequented lair is concerning the animal's
+food. That a tiger always devours its prey upon the
+spot where it is taken or in the adjacent bush is an
+erroneous idea. This is often true when the kill is too
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_52">- 52 -</span>
+heavy to be carried for a long distance, but it is by no
+means universally so. Not long ago the remains of a
+young boy were found in a grave adjacent to a tiger's
+lair a few miles from Futsing city. No child had
+been reported missing in the immediate neighborhood
+and everything indicated that the boy had been brought
+alive to this spot from a considerable distance. The
+sides of the grave were besmeared with the blood of
+the unfortunate victim, indicating that the tiger had
+tortured it just as a cat plays with a mouse as long as it
+remains alive.</p>
+
+<p>"In the lair of a tiger there are certain terraces, or
+places under overhanging trees, which are covered with
+bones, and are evidently spots to which the animal
+brings its prey to be devoured. On such a terrace one
+will find the remains of deer, wild hog, dog, pig, porcupine,
+pangolin, and other animals both domestic and
+wild. A fresh kill shows that with its rasp-like tongue
+the tiger licks off all the hair of its prey before devouring
+it and the hair will be found in a circle around what
+remains of the kill. The Chinese often raid a lair in
+order to gather up the quills of the porcupine and the
+bony scales of the pangolin which are esteemed for
+medicinal purposes.</p>
+
+<p>"In addition to the larger animals, tigers feed upon
+reptiles and frogs which they find among the rice fields.
+On the night of April 22, 1914, a party of frog catchers
+were returning from a hunt when the man carrying the
+load of frogs was attacked by a tiger and killed. The
+animal made no attempt to drag the man away and it
+would appear that it was attracted by the croaking of
+the frogs.</p>
+
+<p>"One often finds trees 'marked' by tigers beside some
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_53">- 53 -</span>
+trail or path in, or adjacent to, a lair. Catlike, the
+tiger measures its full length upon a tree, standing in a
+convenient place, and with its powerful claws rips
+deeply through the bark. This sign is doubly interesting
+to the sportsman as it not only indicates the presence
+of a tiger in the immediate vicinity but serves to
+give an accurate idea as to the size of the beast. The
+trails leading into a lair often are marked in a different
+way. In doing this the animal rakes away the grass
+with a forepaw and gathers it into a pile, but claw
+prints never appear."</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_54">- 54 -</span></p>
+
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_VII">CHAPTER VII</h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class="caption3">THE BLUE TIGER</p>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">After</span> one has traveled in a Chinese <i>sampan</i> for several
+days the prospect of a river journey is not very
+alluring but we had a most agreeable surprise when we
+sailed out of Foochow in a chartered house boat to hunt
+the "blue tiger" at Futsing. In fact, we had all the
+luxury of a private yacht, for our boat contained a large
+central cabin with a table and chairs and two staterooms
+and was manned by a captain and crew of six
+men—all for $1.50 per day!</p>
+
+<p>In the evening we talked of the blue tiger for a long
+time before we spread our beds on the roof of the
+boat and went to sleep under the stars. We left the
+boat shortly after daylight at Daing-nei for the six-mile
+walk to Lung-tao. To my great surprise the
+coolies were considerably distressed at the lightness of
+our loads. In this region they are paid by weight and
+some of the bearers carry almost incredible burdens. As
+an example, one of our men came into camp swinging a
+125-pound trunk on each end of his pole, laughing and
+chatting as gayly as though he had not been carrying
+250 pounds for six miles under a broiling sun.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Caldwell's Chinese hunter, Da-Da, lived at
+Lung-tao and we found his house to be one of several
+built on the outskirts of a beautiful grove of gum and
+banyan trees. Although it was exceptionally clean for
+a Chinese dwelling, we pitched our tents a short
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_55">- 55 -</span>
+distance away. At first we were somewhat doubtful about
+sleeping outside, but after one night indoors we decided
+that any risk was preferable to spending another
+hour in the stifling heat of the house.</p>
+
+<p>It was probable that a tiger would be so suspicious
+of the white tents that it would not attack us, but nevertheless
+during the first nights we were rather wakeful
+and more than once at some strange night sound seized
+our rifles and flashed the electric lamp into the darkness.</p>
+
+<p>Tigers often come into this village. Only a few hundred
+yards from our camp site, in 1911, a tiger had
+rushed into the house of one of the peasants and attempted
+to steal a child that had fallen asleep at its play
+under the family table. All was quiet in the house
+when suddenly the animal dashed through the open
+door. The Chinese declare that the gods protected
+the infant, for the beast missed his prey and seizing the
+leg of the table against which the baby's head was resting,
+bolted through the door dragging the table into the
+courtyard.</p>
+
+<p>This was the work of the famous "blue tiger" which
+we had come to hunt and which had on two occasions
+been seen by Mr. Caldwell. The first time he heard of
+this strange beast was in the spring of 1910. The animal
+was reported as having been seen at various places
+within an area of a few miles almost simultaneously and
+so mysterious were its movements that the Chinese declared
+it was a spirit of the devil. After several unsuccessful
+hunts Mr. Caldwell finally saw the tiger at
+close range but as he was armed with only a shotgun
+it would have been useless to shoot.</p>
+
+<p>His second view of the beast was a few weeks later
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_56">- 56 -</span>
+and in the same place. I will give the story in his own
+words:</p>
+
+<p>"I selected a spot upon a hilltop and cleared away
+the grass and ferns with a jack-knife for a place to tie
+the goat. I concealed myself in the bushes ten feet
+away to await the attack, but the unexpected happened
+and the tiger approached from the rear.</p>
+
+<p>"When I first saw the beast he was moving stealthily
+along a little trail just across a shallow ravine. I supposed,
+of course, that he was trying to locate the goat
+which was bleating loudly, but to my horror I saw that
+he was creeping upon two boys who had entered the
+ravine to cut grass. The huge brute moved along lizard-fashion
+for a few yards and then cautiously lifted his
+head above the grass. He was within easy springing
+distance when I raised my rifle, but instantly I realized
+that if I wounded the animal the boys would certainly
+meet a horrible death.</p>
+
+<p>"Tigers are usually afraid of the human voice so
+instead of firing I stepped from the bushes, yelling and
+waving my arms. The huge cat, crouched for a spring,
+drew back, wavered uncertainly for a moment, and then
+slowly slipped away into the grass. The boys were
+saved but I had lost the opportunity I had sought for
+over a year.</p>
+
+<p>"However, I had again seen the animal about which
+so many strange tales had been told. The markings
+of the beast are strikingly beautiful. The ground color
+is of a delicate shade of maltese, changing into light
+gray-blue on the underparts. The stripes are well defined
+and like those of the ordinary yellow tiger."</p>
+
+<p>Before I left New York Mr. Caldwell had written
+me repeatedly urging me to stop at Futsing on the way
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_57">- 57 -</span>
+to Yün-nan to try with him for the blue tiger which
+was still in the neighborhood. I was decidedly skeptical
+as to its being a distinct species, but nevertheless it was
+a most interesting animal and would certainly be well
+worth getting.</p>
+
+<p>I believed then, and my opinion has since been
+strengthened, that it is a partially melanistic phase of
+the ordinary yellow tiger. Black leopards are common
+in India and the Malay Peninsula and as only a single
+individual of the blue tiger has been reported the evidence
+hardly warrants the assumption that it represents
+a distinct species.</p>
+
+<p>We hunted the animal for five weeks. The brute
+ranged in the vicinity of two or three villages about
+seven miles apart, but was seen most frequently near
+Lung-tao. He was as elusive as a will o' the wisp, killing
+a dog or goat in one village and by the time we
+had hurried across the mountains appearing in another
+spot a few miles away, leaving a trail of terrified natives
+who flocked to our camp to recount his depredations.
+He was in truth the "Great Invisible" and it
+seemed impossible that we should not get him sooner or
+later, but we never did.</p>
+
+<p>Once we missed him by a hair's breadth through sheer
+bad luck, and it was only by exercising almost super-human
+restraint that we prevented ourselves from doing
+bodily harm to the three Chinese who ruined our hunt.
+Every evening for a week we had faithfully taken a
+goat into the "Long Ravine," for the blue tiger had
+been seen several times near this lair. On the eighth
+afternoon we were in the "blind" at three o'clock as
+usual. We had tied a goat to a tree nearby and her two
+kids were but a few feet away.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_58">- 58 -</span></p>
+
+<p>The grass-filled lair lay shimmering in the breathless
+heat, silent save for the echoes of the bleating goats.
+Crouched behind the screen of branches, for three long
+hours we sat in the patchwork shade,—motionless,
+dripping with perspiration, hardly breathing,—and
+watched the shadows steal slowly down the narrow
+ravine.</p>
+
+<p>It was a wild place which seemed to have been cut
+out of the mountain side with two strokes of a mighty
+ax and was choked with a tangle of thorny vines and
+sword grass. Impenetrable as a wall of steel, the only
+entrance was by the tiger tunnels which drove their
+twisting way through the murderous growth far in toward
+its gloomy heart.</p>
+
+<p>The shadows had passed over us and just reached a
+lone palm tree on the opposite hillside. By that I knew
+it was six o'clock and in half an hour another day of
+disappointment would be ended. Suddenly at the left
+and just below us there came the faintest crunching
+sound as a loose stone shifted under a heavy weight;
+then a rustling in the grass. Instantly the captive goat
+gave a shrill bleat of terror and tugged frantically at
+the rope which held it to the tree.</p>
+
+<p>At the first sound Harry had breathed in my ear
+"Get ready, he's coming." I was half kneeling with my
+heavy .405 Winchester pushed forward and the hammer
+up. The blood drummed in my ears and my neck
+muscles ached with the strain but I thanked Heaven
+that my hands were steady.</p>
+
+<p>Caldwell sat like a graven image, the stock of his
+little 22 caliber high power Savage nestling against his
+cheek. Our eyes met for an instant and I knew in that
+glance that the blue tiger would never make another
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_59">- 59 -</span>
+charge, for if I missed him, Harry wouldn't. For ten
+minutes we waited and my heart lost a beat when twenty
+feet away the grass began to move again—but rapidly
+and <i>up the ravine</i>.</p>
+
+<p>I saw Harry watching the lair with a puzzled look
+which changed to one of disgust as a chorus of yells
+sounded across the ravine and three Chinese wood cutters
+appeared on the opposite slope. They were taking
+a short cut home, shouting to drive away the tigers—and
+they had succeeded only too well, for the blue
+tiger had slipped back to the heart of the lair from
+whence he had come.</p>
+
+<p>He had been nearly ours and again we had lost him!
+I felt so badly that I could not even swear and it wasn't
+the fact that Harry was a missionary which kept me
+from it, either. Caldwell exclaimed just once, for his
+disappointment was even more bitter than mine; he had
+been hunting this same tiger off and on for six years.</p>
+
+<p>It was useless for us to wait longer that evening and
+we pushed our way through the sword grass to the entrance
+of the tunnel down which the tiger had come.
+There in the soft earth were the great footprints where
+he had crouched at the entrance to take a cautious
+survey before charging into the open.</p>
+
+<p>As we looked, Harry suddenly turned to me and said:
+"Roy, let's go into the lair. There is just one chance
+in a thousand that we may get a shot." Now I must
+admit that I was not very enthusiastic about that little
+excursion, but in we went, crawling on our hands and
+knees up the narrow passage. Every few feet we passed
+side branches from the main tunnel in any one of which
+the tiger might easily have been lying in wait and
+could have killed us as we passed. It was a foolhardy
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_60">- 60 -</span>
+thing to do and I am free to admit that I was scared.
+It was not long before Harry twisted about and said:
+"Roy, I haven't lost any tigers in here; let's get out."
+And out we came faster than we went in.</p>
+
+<p>This was only one of the times when the "Great
+Invisible" was almost in our hands. A few days later
+a Chinese found the blue tiger asleep under a rice bank
+early in the afternoon. Frightened almost to death he
+ran a mile and a half to our camp only to find that
+we had left half an hour before for another village
+where the brute had killed two wild cats early in the
+morning.</p>
+
+<p>Again, the tiger pushed open the door of a house at
+daybreak just as the members of the family were getting
+up, stole a dog from the "heaven's well," dragged
+it to a hillside and partly devoured it. We were in camp
+only a mile away and our Chinese hunters found the
+carcass on a narrow ledge in the sword grass high up
+on the mountain side. The spot was an impossible
+one to watch and we set a huge grizzly bear trap which
+had been carried with us from New York.</p>
+
+<p>It seemed out of the question for any animal to return
+to the carcass of the dog without getting caught
+and yet the tiger did it. With his hind quarters on the
+upper terrace he dropped down, stretched his long neck
+across the trap, seized the dog which had been wired
+to a tree and pulled it away. It was evident that he
+was quite unconscious of the trap for his fore feet had
+actually been placed upon one of the jaws only two
+inches from the pan which would have sprung it.</p>
+
+<p>One afternoon we responded to a call from Bui-tao,
+a village seven miles beyond Lung-tao, where the blue
+tiger had been seen that day. The natives assured us
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_61">- 61 -</span>
+that the animal continually crossed a hill, thickly
+clothed with pines and sword grass just above the village
+and even though it was late when we arrived Harry
+thought it wise to set the trap that night.</p>
+
+<p>It was pitch dark before we reached the ridge carrying
+the trap, two lanterns, an electric flash-lamp and a
+wretched little dog for bait. We had been engaged for
+about fifteen minutes making a pen for the dog, and
+Caldwell and I were on our knees over the trap when
+suddenly a low rumbling growl came from the grass
+not twenty feet away. We jumped to our feet just as
+it sounded again, this time ending in a snarl. The tiger
+had arrived a few moments too early and we were in
+the rather uncomfortable position of having to return
+to the village by way of a narrow trail through the
+jungle. With our rifles ready and the electric lamp
+cutting a brilliant path in the darkness we walked slowly
+toward the edge of the sword grass hoping to see the
+flash of the tiger's eyes, but the beast backed off beyond
+the range of the light into an impenetrable tangle where
+we could not follow. Apparently he was frightened by
+the lantern, for we did not hear him again.</p>
+
+<p>After nearly a month of disappointments such as
+these Mr. Heller joined us at Bui-tao with Mr. Kellogg.
+Caldwell thought it advisable to shift camp to the
+Ling-suik monastery, about twelve miles away, where
+he had once spent a summer with his family and had
+killed several tigers. This was within the blue tiger's
+range and, moreover, had the advantage of offering a
+better general collecting ground than Bui-tao; thus with
+Heller to look after the small mammals we could begin
+to make our time count for something if we did not get
+the tiger.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_62">- 62 -</span></p>
+
+<p>Ling-suik is a beautiful temple, or rather series of
+temples, built into a hillside at the end of a long narrow
+valley which swells out like a great bowl between bamboo
+clothed mountains, two thousand feet in height. On
+his former visit Mr. Caldwell had made friends with the
+head priest and we were allowed to establish ourselves
+upon the broad porch of the third and highest building.
+It was an ideal place for a collecting camp and
+would have been delightful except for the terrible heat
+which was rendered doubly disagreeable by the almost
+continual rain.</p>
+
+<p>The priests who shuffled about the temples were a
+hard lot. Most of them were fugitives from justice and
+certainly looked the part, for a more disreputable, diseased
+and generally undesirable body of men I have
+never seen.</p>
+
+<p>Our stay at Ling-suik was productive and the temple
+life interesting. We slept on the porch and each morning,
+about half an hour before daylight, the measured
+strokes of a great gong sounded from the temple just
+below us. <i>Boom—boom—boom—boom</i> it went, then
+rapidly <i>bang, bang, bang</i>. It was a religious alarm
+clock to rouse the world.</p>
+
+<p>A little later when the upturned gables and twisted
+dolphins on the roof had begun to take definite shape in
+the gray light of the new day, the gong boomed out
+again, doors creaked, and from their cell-like rooms
+shuffled the priests to yawn and stretch themselves before
+the early service. The droning chorus of hoarse
+voices, swelling in a meaningless half-wild chant, harmonized
+strangely with the romantic surroundings of
+the temple and become our daily <i>matin</i> and evensong.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" id="img_f62a" style="width: 286px;">
+ <img src="images/img_f62a.png" width="286" height="359" alt="" />
+ <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">The Ling-suik Monastery</span></div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" id="img_f62b" style="width: 286px;">
+ <img src="images/img_f62b.png" width="286" height="355" alt="" />
+ <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">A Priest of Ling-suik</span></div>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_63">- 63 -</span></p>
+
+<p>At the first gong we slipped from beneath our
+mosquito nets and dressed to be ready for the bats which
+fluttered into the building to hide themselves beneath
+the tiles and rafters. When daylight had fully come we
+scattered to the four winds of heaven to inspect traps,
+hunt barking deer, or collect birds, but gathered again
+at nine o'clock for breakfast and to deposit our spoil.
+Caldwell and I always spent the afternoon at the blue
+tiger's lair but the animal had suddenly shifted his
+operations back to Lung-tao and did not appear at
+Ling-suik while we were there.</p>
+
+<p>Our work in Fukien taught us much that may be of
+help to other naturalists who contemplate a visit to this
+province. We satisfied ourselves that summer collecting
+is impracticable, for the heat is so intense and the
+vegetation so heavy that only meager results can be obtained
+for the efforts expended. Continual tramping
+over the mountains in the blazing sun necessarily must
+have its effect upon the strongest constitution, and even
+a man like Mr. Caldwell, who has become thoroughly
+acclimated, is not immune.</p>
+
+<p>Both Caldwell and I lost from fifteen to twenty
+pounds in weight during the time we hunted the blue
+tiger and each of us had serious trouble from abscesses.
+I have never worked in a more trying climate—even
+that of Borneo and the Dutch East Indies where I collected
+in 1909-10, was much less debilitating than
+Fukien in the summer. The average temperature was
+about 95 degrees in the shade, but the humidity was so
+high that one felt as though one were wrapped in a wet
+blanket and even during a six weeks' rainless period
+the air was saturated with moisture from the sea-winds.</p>
+
+<p>In winter the weather is raw and damp, but collecting
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_64">- 64 -</span>
+then would be vastly easier than in summer, not only on
+account of climatic conditions, but because much of the
+vegetation disappears and there is an opportunity for
+"still hunting."</p>
+
+<p>Trapping for small mammal is especially difficult because
+of the dense population. The mud dykes and the
+rice fields usually are covered with tracks of civets, mongooses,
+and cats which come to hunt frogs or fish, but if
+a trap is set it either catches a Chinaman or promptly
+is stolen. Moreover, the small mammals are neither
+abundant nor varied in number of species, and the larger
+forms, such as tiger, leopard, wild pig and serow are exceedingly
+difficult to kill.</p>
+
+<p>While our work in the province was done during an
+unfavorable season and in only two localities, yet enough
+was seen of the general conditions to make it certain
+that a thorough zoölogical study of the region would
+require considerable time and hard work and that the
+results, so far as a large collection of mammals is concerned,
+would not be highly satisfactory. Work in the
+western part of the province among the Bohea Hills
+undoubtedly would be more profitable, but even there
+it would be hardly worth while for an expedition with
+limited time and money.</p>
+
+<p>Bird life is on a much better footing, but the ornithology
+of Fukien already has received considerable attention
+through the collections of Swinhoe, La Touche,
+Styan, Ricketts, Caldwell and others, and probably not
+a great number of species remain to be described.</p>
+
+<p>Much work could still be done upon the herpetology
+of the region, however, and I believe that this branch of
+zoölogy would be well worth investigation for reptiles
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_65">- 65 -</span>
+and batrachians are fairly abundant and the natives
+would rather assist than retard one's efforts.</p>
+
+<p>The language of Fukien is a greater annoyance than
+in any other of the Chinese coast provinces. The Foochow
+dialect (which is one of the most difficult to learn)
+is spoken only within fifty or one hundred miles of the
+city. At Yen-ping Mr. Caldwell, who speaks "Foochow"
+perfectly, could not understand a word of the
+"southern mandarin" which is the language of that
+region, and near Futsing, where a colony of natives
+from Amoy have settled, the dialect is unintelligible to
+one who knows only "Foochow."</p>
+
+<p>Travel in Fukien is an unceasing trial, for transport
+is entirely by coolies who carry from eighty to one hundred
+pounds. The men are paid by distance or weight;
+therefore, when coolies finally have been obtained there
+is the inevitable wrangling over loads so that from one
+to two hours are consumed before the party can start.</p>
+
+<p>But the worst of it is that one can never be certain
+when one's entire outfit will arrive at its new destination.
+Some men walk much faster than others, some will delay
+a long time for tea, or may give out altogether if
+the day be hot, with the result that the last load will
+arrive perhaps five or six hours after the first one.</p>
+
+<p>As horses are not to be had, if one does not walk the
+only alternative is to be carried in a mountain chair,
+which is an uncomfortable, trapeze-like affair and only
+to be found along the main highways. On the whole,
+transport by man-power in China is so uncertain and
+expensive that for a large expedition it forms a grave
+obstacle to successful work, if time and funds be limited.</p>
+
+<p>On the other hand, servants are cheap and usually
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_66">- 66 -</span>
+good. We employed a very fair cook who received
+monthly seven dollars Mexican (then about three and
+one-half dollars gold), and "boys" were hired at from
+five to seven dollars (Mexican). As none of the servants
+knew English they could be obtained at much lower
+wages, but English-speaking cooks usually receive from
+fifteen to twenty dollars (Mexican) a month.</p>
+
+<p>It was hard to leave Fukien without the blue tiger
+but we had hunted him unsuccessfully for five weeks
+and there was other and more important work awaiting
+us in Yün-nan. It required thirty porters to transport
+our baggage from the Ling-suik monastery to Daing-nei,
+twenty-one miles away, where two houseboats were
+to meet us, and by ten o'clock in the evening we were
+lying off Pagoda Anchorage awaiting the flood tide to
+take us to Foochow. We made our beds on the deck
+house and in the morning opened our eyes to find the
+boat tied to the wharf at the Custom House on the
+Bund, and ourselves in full view of all Foochow had it
+been awake at that hour.</p>
+
+<p>The week of packing and repacking that followed was
+made easy for us by Claude Kellogg, who acted as our
+ministering angel. I think there must be a special
+Providence that watches over wandering naturalists and
+directs them to such men as Kellogg, for without divine
+aid they could never be found. When we last saw him,
+he stood on the stone steps of the water front waving
+his hat as we slipped away on the tide, to board the
+S. S. <i>Haitan</i> for Hongkong.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_67">- 67 -</span></p>
+
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_VIII">CHAPTER VIII</h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class="caption3">THE WOMEN OF CHINA</p>
+
+<p class="caption4"><i>Y. B. A.</i></p>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">The</span> schools for native girls at Foochow and Yen-ping
+interested us greatly, even when we first came to
+China, but we could not appreciate then as we did later
+the epoch-making step toward civilization of these institutions.</p>
+
+<p>How much the missionaries are able to accomplish
+from a religious standpoint is a question which we do
+not wish to discuss, but no one who has ever lived among
+them can deny that the opening of schools and the diffusing
+of western knowledge are potent factors in the
+development of the people. The Chinese were not slow
+even in the beginning to see the advantages of a foreign
+education for their boys and now, along the coast at
+least, some are beginning to make sacrifices for their
+daughters as well. The Woman's College, which was
+opened recently in Foochow, is one of the finest buildings
+of the Republic, and when one sees its bright-faced
+girls dressed in their quaint little pajama-like garments,
+it is difficult to realize that outside such schools they are
+still slaves in mind and body to those iron rules of Confucius
+which have molded the entire structure of Chinese
+society for over 2400 years.</p>
+
+<p>The position of women in China today, and the rules
+which govern the household of every orthodox Chinese,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_68">- 68 -</span>
+are the direct heritage of Confucianism. The following
+translation by Professor J. Legge from the <i>Narratives
+of the Confucian School</i>, chapter 26, is illuminating:</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p>Confucius said: "Man is the representative of heaven and
+is supreme over all things. Woman yields obedience to the instructions
+of man and helps to carry out his principles. On
+this account she can determine nothing of herself and is subject
+to the rule of the three obediences.</p>
+
+<p>"(1) When young she must obey her father and her elder
+brother;</p>
+
+<p>"(2) When married, she must obey her husband;</p>
+
+<p>"(3) When her husband is dead she must obey her son.</p>
+
+<p>"She may not think of marrying a second time. No instructions
+or orders must issue from the harem. Women's
+business is simply the preparation and supplying of drink and
+food. Beyond the threshold of her apartments she shall not be
+known for evil or for good. She may not cross the boundaries
+of a state to attend a funeral. She may take no steps on her
+own motive and may come to no conclusion on her own deliberation."</p>
+
+<p>The grounds for divorce as stated by Confucius are:</p>
+
+<p>"(1) Disobedience to her husband's parents;</p>
+
+<p>"(2) Not giving birth to a son;</p>
+
+<p>"(3) Dissolute conduct;</p>
+
+<p>"(4) Jealousy of her husband's attentions (to the other inmates
+of his harem);</p>
+
+<p>"(5) Talkativeness, and</p>
+
+<p>"(6) Thieving."</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>A Chinese bride owes implicit obedience to her
+mother-in-law, and as she is often reared by her husband's
+family, or else married to him as a mere child,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_69">- 69 -</span>
+and is under the complete control of his mother for a
+considerable period of her existence, her life in many
+instances is one of intolerable misery. There is generally
+little or no consideration for a girl under the best
+of circumstances until she becomes the mother of a male
+child; her condition then improves but she approaches
+happiness only when she in turn occupies the enviable
+position of mother-in-law.</p>
+
+<p>It is difficult to imagine a life of greater dreariness
+and vacuity than that of the average Chinese woman.
+Owing to her bound feet and resultant helplessness, if
+she is not obliged to work she rarely stirs from the narrow
+confinement of her courtyard, and perhaps in her
+entire life she may not go a mile from the house to
+which she was brought a bride, except for the periodical
+visits to her father's home.</p>
+
+<p>It has been aptly said that there are no real homes in
+China and it is not surprising that, ignored and despised
+for centuries, the Chinese woman shows no ability to
+improve the squalor of her surroundings. She passes
+her life in a dark, smoke-filled dwelling with broken
+furniture and a mud floor, together with pigs, chickens
+and babies enjoying a limited sphere of action under the
+tables and chairs, or in the tumble-down courtyard without.
+Her work is actually never done and a Chinese
+bride, bright and attractive at twenty, will be old and
+faded at thirty.</p>
+
+<p>But without doubt the crowning evil which attends
+woman's condition in China is foot binding, and nothing
+can be offered in extenuation of this abominable custom.
+It is said to have originated one thousand years
+before the Christian era and has persisted until the present
+day in spite of the efforts directed against it. The
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_70">- 70 -</span>
+Empress Dowager issued edicts strongly advising its
+discontinuation, the "Natural Foot Society," which was
+formed about fifteen years ago, has endeavored to educate
+public opinion, and the missionaries refuse to admit
+girls so mutilated to their schools; but nevertheless the
+reform has made little progress beyond the coast cities.
+"Precedent" and the fear of not obtaining suitable husbands
+for their daughters are responsible for the continuation
+of the evil, and it is estimated that there are
+still about seventy-four millions of girls and women who
+are crippled in this way.</p>
+
+<p>The feet are bandaged between the ages of five and
+seven. The toes are bent under the sole of the foot
+and after two or three years the heel and instep are so
+forced together that a dollar can be placed in the cleft;
+gradually also the lower limbs shrink away until only
+the bones remain.</p>
+
+<p>The suffering of the children is intense. We often
+passed through streets full of laughing boys and tiny
+girls where others, a few years older, were sitting on the
+doorsteps or curbstones holding their tortured feet and
+crying bitterly. In some instances out-houses are constructed
+a considerable distance from the family dwelling
+where the girls must sleep during their first crippled
+years in order that their moans may not disturb the
+other members of the family. The child's only relief
+is to hang her feet over the edge of the bed in order to
+stop the circulation and induce numbness, or to seek
+oblivion from opium.</p>
+
+<p>If the custom were a fad which affected only the
+wealthy classes it would be reprehensible enough, but
+it curses rich and poor alike, and almost every day we
+saw heavily laden coolie women steadying themselves
+by means of a staff, hobbling stiff-kneed along the roads
+or laboring in the fields.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" id="img_f70a" style="width: 283px;">
+ <img src="images/img_f70a.png" width="283" height="358" alt="" />
+ <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">A Chinese Mother with Her Children</span></div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" id="img_f70b" style="width: 276px;">
+ <img src="images/img_f70b.png" width="276" height="354" alt="" />
+ <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">Chinese Women of the Coolie Class
+with Bound Feet</span></div>
+</div>
+
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_71">- 71 -</span></p>
+
+<p>Although the agitation against foot binding is undoubtedly
+making itself felt to a certain extent in the
+coast provinces, in Yün-nan the horrible practice continues
+unabated. During the year in which we traveled
+through a large part of the province, wherever there
+were Chinese we saw bound feet. And the fact that
+virtually <i>every</i> girl over eight years old was mutilated in
+this way is satisfactory evidence that reform ideas have
+not penetrated to this remote part of the Republic.</p>
+
+<p>I know of nothing which so rouses one's indignation
+because of its senselessness and brutality, and China can
+never hope to take her place among civilized nations
+until she has abandoned this barbarous custom and liberated
+her women from their infamous subjection.</p>
+
+<p>There has been much criticism of foreign education
+because the girls who have had its advantages absorb
+western ideas so completely that they dislike to return
+to their homes where the ordinary conditions of a
+Chinese household exist. Nevertheless, if the women of
+China are ever to be emancipated it must come through
+their own education as well as that of the men.</p>
+
+<p>One of the first results of foreign influence is to delay
+marriage, and in some instances the early betrothal with
+its attendant miseries. The evil which results from this
+custom can hardly be overestimated. It happens not
+infrequently that two children are betrothed in infancy,
+the respective families being in like circumstances at the
+time. The opportunity perhaps is offered to the girl to
+attend school and she may even go through college, but
+an inexorable custom brings her back to her parents'
+home, forces her to submit to the engagement made in
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_72">- 72 -</span>
+babyhood and perhaps ruins her life through marriage
+with a man of no higher social status or intelligence than
+a coolie.</p>
+
+<p>Among the few girls imbued with western civilization
+a spirit of revolt is slowly growing, and while it is impossible
+for them to break down the barriers of ages, yet in
+many instances they waive aside what would seem an unsurmountable
+precedent and insist upon having some
+voice in the choosing of their husbands.</p>
+
+<p>While in Yen-ping we were invited to attend the semi-foreign
+wedding of a girl who had been brought up in the
+Woman's School and who was qualified to be a "Bible
+Woman" or native Christian teacher. It was whispered
+that she had actually met her betrothed on several occasions,
+but on their wedding day no trace of recognition
+was visible, and the marriage was performed with all the
+punctilious Chinese observances compatible with a Christian
+ceremony.</p>
+
+<p>Precedent required of this little bride, although she
+might have been radiantly happy at heart, and undoubtedly
+was, to appear tearful and shrinking and as she was
+escorted up the aisle by her bridesmaid one might have
+thought she was being led to slaughter. White is not becoming
+to the Chinese and besides it is a sign of mourning,
+so she had chosen pink for her wedding gown and
+had a brilliant pink veil over her carefully oiled hair.</p>
+
+<p>After the ceremony the bride and bridegroom proceeded
+downstairs to the joyous strain of the wedding
+march, but with nothing joyous in their demeanor—in
+fact they appeared like two wooden images at the reception
+and endured for over an hour the stares and loud
+criticism of the guests. He assumed during the ordeal
+a look of bored indifference while the little bride sat with
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_73">- 73 -</span>
+her head bowed on her breast, apparently terror stricken.
+But once she raised her face and I saw a merry twinkle
+in her shining black eyes that made me realize that perhaps
+it wasn't all quite so frightful as she would have us
+believe. I often wonder what sort of a life she is leading
+in her far away Chinese courtyard.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_74">- 74 -</span></p>
+
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_IX">CHAPTER IX</h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class="caption3">VOYAGING TO YÜN-NAN</p>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">We</span> had a busy week in Hongkong outfitting for our
+trip to Yün-nan. Hongkong is one of the best cities in
+the Orient in which to purchase supplies of almost any
+kind, for not only is the selection excellent, but the best
+English goods can be had for prices very little in excess
+of those in London itself.</p>
+
+<p>The system which we used in our commissary was that
+of the unit food box which has been adopted by most
+large expeditions. The boxes were packed to weigh
+seventy pounds each and contained all the necessary
+staple supplies for three persons for one week; thus only
+one box needed to be opened at a time, and, moreover, if
+the party separated for a few days a single box could be
+taken without the necessity of repacking and with the assurance
+that sufficient food would be available.</p>
+
+<p>Our supplies consisted largely of flour, butter, sugar,
+coffee, milk, bacon, and marmalade, and but little tinned
+meat, vegetables, or fruit because we were certain to be
+able to obtain a plentiful supply of such food in the
+country through which we were expecting to travel.</p>
+
+<p>Our tents were brought from New York and were
+made of light Egyptian cotton thoroughly waterproof,
+but we also purchased in Hongkong a large army tent
+for the servants and two canvas flies to protect loads and
+specimens. We used sleeping bags and folding cots,
+tables and chairs, for when an expedition expects to remain
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_75">- 75 -</span>
+in the field for a long time it is absolutely necessary
+to be as comfortable as possible and to live well;
+otherwise one cannot work at one's highest efficiency.</p>
+
+<p>For clothing we all wore khaki or "Dux-back" suits
+with flannel shirts and high leather shoes for mountain
+climbing, and we had light rubber automobile shirts and
+rubber caps for use in rainy weather. The auto shirt is
+a long, loose robe which slips over the head and fastens
+about the neck and, when one is sitting upon a horse, can
+be so spread about as to cover all exposed parts of the
+body; it is especially useful and necessary, and hip
+rubber boots are also very comfortable during the rainy
+season.</p>
+
+<p>Our traps for catching small mammals were
+brought from New York. We had two sizes of wooden
+"Out of Sight" for mice and rats, and four or five sizes
+of Oneida steel traps for catching medium sized animals
+such as civets and polecats. We also carried a half
+dozen No. 5 wolf traps. Mr. Heller had used this size
+in Africa and found that they were large enough even
+to hold lions.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Heller carried a 250-300 Savage rifle, while I
+used a 6½ mm. Mannlicher and a .405 Winchester. All
+of these guns were eminently satisfactory, but the choice
+of a rifle is a very personal matter and every sportsman
+has his favorite weapon. We found, however, that a flat
+trajectory high-power rifle such as those with which we
+were armed was absolutely essential for many of our
+shots were at long range and we frequently killed gorals
+at three hundred yards or over.</p>
+
+<p>The camera equipment consisted of two 3A Kodaks,
+a Graphic 4 × 5 tripod camera, and Graflex 4 × 5 for
+rapid work. We have found after considerable field
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_76">- 76 -</span>
+experience that the 4 × 5 is the most convenient size to
+handle, for the plate is large enough and can be obtained
+more readily than any other in different parts of the
+world. The same applies to the 3A Kodak "post-card"
+size film, for there are few places where foreign goods
+are carried that 3A films cannot be purchased.</p>
+
+<p>All of our plates and films were sealed in air-tight tin
+boxes before we left America, and thus the material was
+in perfect condition when the cans were opened. We
+used plates almost altogether in the finer photographic
+work, for although they are heavier and more difficult to
+handle than films, nevertheless the results obtained are
+very superior. A collapsible rubber dark room about
+seven feet high and four feet in diameter was an indispensable
+part of the camera equipment. This tent was
+made for us by the Abercrombie & Fitch Company, of
+New York, and could be hung from the limb of a tree or
+the rafters of a building and be ready for use in five
+minutes.</p>
+
+<p>The motion pictures were taken with a Universal
+camera, and like all other negatives were developed in
+the field by means of a special apparatus which had been
+designed by Mr. Carl Akeley of the American Museum
+of Natural History. This work required a much larger
+space than that of the portable dark room and we consequently
+had a tent made of red cloth which could be tied
+inside of our ordinary sleeping tent.</p>
+
+<p>Our equipment was packed in fiber army trunks and
+in wooden boxes with sliding tops. The latter arrangement
+is especially desirable in Yün-nan, for the loads can
+be opened without being untied from the saddle, thus
+saving a considerable amount of time and trouble.</p>
+
+<p>It was by no means an easy matter to get our supplies
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_77">- 77 -</span>
+together, but the Lane & Crawford Company of Hongkong
+pushed the making and packing of our boxes in a
+remarkably efficient manner; as the manager of one of
+their departments expressed it, "the one way to hurry a
+Chinaman is to get more Chinamen," and they put a
+small army at work upon our material, which was ready
+for shipment in just a week.</p>
+
+<p>While in Hongkong we were joined by Wu Hung-tao,
+of Shanghai, who acted as interpreter and "head
+boy" as well as a general field manager of the expedition.
+He formerly had been in the employ of Mr. F. W. Cary,
+when the latter was Commissioner of Customs in Teng-yueh,
+Yün-nan, and he was educated at the Anglo-Chinese
+College of Foochow. Wu proved to be the most
+efficient and trustworthy servant whom we have ever
+employed, and the success of our work was due in no
+small degree to his efforts.</p>
+
+<p>We left for Tonking on the S. S. <i>Sung-kiang</i>, commanded
+by Harry Trowbridge, a congenial and well-read
+gentleman whose delightful personality contributed
+much toward making our week's stay on his
+ship most pleasant. On our way to Haiphong the
+vessel stopped at the island of Hainan and anchored
+about three miles off the town of Hoi-hau. This
+island is 90 by 150 miles long, is mountainous in its center,
+but flat and uninteresting at the northwest.</p>
+
+<p>A large part of the island is unexplored and in the interior
+there is a mountain called "the Five Fingers"
+which has never been ascended, for it is reported that the
+hill tribes are unfriendly and that the tropical valleys
+are reeking with deadly malaria. The island undoubtedly
+would prove to be a rich field for zoölogical work as
+is shown by the collections which the American Museum
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_78">- 78 -</span>
+of Natural History has already received from a native
+dealer; these include monkeys, squirrels, and other small
+mammals, and bears, leopards, and deer are said to be
+among its fauna.</p>
+
+<p>The next night's steaming brought us to the city of
+Paik-hoi on the mainland. In the afternoon we went
+ashore with Captain Trowbridge to visit Dr. Bradley of
+the China Inland Mission who is in charge of a leper hospital,
+which is a model of its kind. The doctor was away
+but we made ourselves at home and when he returned he
+found us in his drawing room comfortably enjoying afternoon
+tea. He remarked that he knew of a Chinese
+cook who was looking for a position, and half an hour
+later, while we were watching some remarkably fine
+tennis, the cook arrived. He was about six feet two
+inches high, and so thin that he was immediately christened
+the "Woolworth Building" and, although not a
+very prepossessing looking individual he was forthwith
+engaged, principally because of his ability to speak English.
+This was at six o'clock in the afternoon and we had
+to be aboard the ship at eight. The doctor sent a note to
+the French Consul and the cook returned anon with his
+baggage and passport. Obtaining this cook was the
+only really rapid thing which I have ever seen done in
+China!</p>
+
+<p>When the <i>Sung-kiang</i> arrived in Haiphong the next
+afternoon we were besieged by a screaming, fighting mob
+of Annamits who seized upon our baggage like so many
+vultures, and it was only by means of a few well-directed
+kicks that we could prevent it from being scattered to
+the four winds of Heaven. After we had designated a
+<i>sampan</i> to receive our equipment the unloading began
+and several trunks had gone over the side, when Mr.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_79">- 79 -</span>
+Heller happened to glance down just in time to see one
+of the ammunition boxes drop into the water and sink
+like lead. The Annamits, believing that it had not been
+noticed, went on as blithely as before and volubly denied
+that anything had been lost. We stopped the unloading
+instantly and sent for divers. The box had sunk in thirty
+feet of muddy water and it seemed useless to hope that
+it could ever be recovered, but the divers went to work
+by dropping a heavy stone on the end of a rope and going
+down it hand over hand.</p>
+
+<p>After two hours the box was located and brought dripping
+to the surface. Fortunately but little of the ammunition
+was ruined, and most of it was dried during the
+night in the engine room. Because of this delay we had
+to leave Haiphong on the following day, and with Captain
+Trowbridge, we went by train to Hanoi, the capital
+of the colony.</p>
+
+<p>Hanoi is a city of delightful surprises. It has broad,
+clean streets, overhung with trees which often form a cool
+green canopy overhead, beautiful lawns and well-kept
+houses, and in the center of the town is a lovely lake
+surrounded by a wide border of palms. At the far end,
+like a jewel in a crystal setting, seems to float a white
+pagoda, an outpost of the temple which stands in the
+midst of a watery meadow of lotus plants. The city
+shops are excellent, but in most instances the prices are
+exceedingly high.</p>
+
+<p>Like all the French towns in the Orient the hours for
+work are rather confusing to the foreigner. The shops
+open at 6:30 in the morning and close at 11 o'clock to reopen
+again at 8 in the afternoon and continue business
+until 7:30 or 8 o'clock in the evening. During the middle
+of the day all houses have the shutters closely drawn,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_80">- 80 -</span>
+and because of the intense heat and glare of the sun the
+streets are absolutely deserted, not even a native being
+visible. In the morning a <i>petit déjeuner</i>, remarkable especially
+for its "petitness," is served, and a real <i>déjeuner</i>
+comes later anywhere from 10 to 12:30.</p>
+
+<p>About 6 o'clock in the evening the open <i>cafés</i> and restaurants
+along the sidewalk are lined with groups of
+men and women playing cards and dice and drinking gin
+and bitters, vermouth or absinthe. There is an air of
+happiness and life about Hanoi which is typically Parisian
+and even during war time it is a city of gayety. An
+immense theater stands in the center of the town, but has
+not been opened since the beginning of the war.</p>
+
+<p>We had letters to M. Chemin Dupontès, the director
+of the railroads, as well as to the Lieutenant-Governor
+and other officials. Without exception we were received
+in the most cordial manner and every facility and convenience
+put at our disposal. M. Dupontès was especially helpful.</p>
+
+<p>Some time before our arrival a tunnel on the railroad
+from Hanoi to Yün-nan Fu had caved in and for almost
+a month trains had not been running. It was now in operation,
+however, but all luggage had to be transferred
+by hand at the broken tunnel and consequently must not
+exceed eighty-five pounds in weight. This meant repacking
+our entire equipment and three days of hard
+work. M. Dupontès arranged to have our 4000 pounds
+of baggage put in a special third class carriage with our
+"boys" in attendance and in this way saved the expedition
+a considerable amount of money. He personally
+went with us to the station to arrange for our comfort
+with the <i>chef de gare</i>, telegraphed ahead at every station
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_81">- 81 -</span>
+upon the railroad, and gave us an open letter to all officials;
+in fact there was nothing which he left undone.</p>
+
+<p>The railroad is a remarkable engineering achievement
+for it was constructed in great haste through a difficult
+mountainous range. Yün-nan is an exceedingly rich
+province and the French were quick to see the advantages
+of drawing its vast trade to their own seaports.
+The British were already making surveys to construct
+a railroad from Bhamo on the headwaters of the Irawadi
+River across Yün-nan to connect with the Yangtze, and
+the French were anxious to have their road in operation
+some time before the rival line could be completed.</p>
+
+<p>Owing to its hasty construction and the heavy rainfall,
+or perhaps to both, the tunnels and bridges frequently
+cave in or are washed away and the railroad is
+chiefly remarkable for the number of days in the year in
+which it does not operate; nevertheless the French deserve
+great credit for their enterprise in extending their
+line to Yün-nan Fu over the mountains where there is a
+tunnel or bridge almost every mile of the way. While it
+was being built through the fever-stricken jungles of
+Tonking the coolies died like flies, and it was necessary
+to suspend all work during the summer months.</p>
+
+<p>The scenery along the railroad is marvelous and the
+traveling is by no means uncomfortable, but the hotels
+in which one stops at night are wretched. One of our
+friends in Hongkong related an amusing experience
+which he had at Lao-kay, the first hotel on the railroad.
+He asked for a bath and discovered that a tub of hot
+water had been prepared. He wished a cold bath, and
+seeing a large tank filled with cold water in the corner of
+the room he climbed in and was enjoying himself when
+the hotel proprietor suddenly rushed upstairs exclaiming,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_82">- 82 -</span>
+"Mon Dieu, Mon Dieu, you are in the tank of
+drinking water."</p>
+
+<p>When we arrived at Yün-nan Fu we found a surprisingly
+cosmopolitan community housed within its grim
+old walls; some were consuls, some missionaries, some
+salt, telegraph, or customs officials in the Chinese employ,
+and others represented business firms in Hongkong,
+but all received us with open-handed hospitality
+characteristic of the East.</p>
+
+<p>We thought that after leaving Hongkong our evening
+clothes would not again be used, but they were requisitioned
+every night for we were guests at dinners given
+by almost everyone of the foreign community. Mr.
+Howard Page, a representative of the Standard Oil
+Company, proved a most valuable friend, and through
+him we were able to obtain a caravan and make other arrangements
+for the transportation of our baggage. M.
+Henry Wilden, the French Consul, an ardent sportsman
+and a charming gentleman, took an active interest in our
+affairs and arranged a meeting for us with the Chinese
+Commissioner of Foreign Affairs. Moreover, he later
+transported our trunks to Hongkong with his personal
+baggage and assisted us in every possible way.</p>
+
+<p>We went to the Foreign Office at half past ten and
+were ushered into a large room where a rather imposing
+lunch had already been spread. The Commissioner, a
+fat, jolly little man, who knew a few words of French
+but none of English, received us in the most cordial way
+and immediately opened several bottles of champagne in
+our honor. He asked why our passports had not been
+viséd in Peking, and we pleased him greatly by replying
+that at the time we were in the capital Yün-nan was an
+independent province and consequently the Peking Government
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_83">- 83 -</span>
+had not the temerity to put their stamp upon
+our passports.</p>
+
+<p>Inasmuch as Yün-nan was infested with brigands we
+had expected some opposition to our plans for traveling
+in the interior, but none was forthcoming, and with the
+exception of an offer of a guard of soldiers for our trip
+to Ta-li Fu which we knew it would be impolitic to refuse,
+we left the Foreign Office with all the desired
+permits.</p>
+
+<p>The Chinese Government appeared to be greatly interested
+in our zoölogical study of Yün-nan, offered to
+assist us in every way we could suggest, and telegraphed
+to every mandarin in the north and west of the province,
+instructing them to receive us with all honor and to facilitate
+our work in every way. None of the opposition
+which we had been led to expect developed, and it is difficult
+to see how we could have been more cordially received.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_84">- 84 -</span></p>
+
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_X">CHAPTER X</h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class="caption3">ON THE ROAD TO TA-LI FU</p>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">On</span> August 6, we dispatched half our equipment to
+Ta-li Fu, and three days later we ourselves left Yün-nan
+Fu at eleven o'clock in the morning after an interminable
+wait for our caravan. Through the kindness
+of Mr. Page, a house boat was put at our disposal and
+we sailed across the upper end of the beautiful lake
+which lies just outside the city, and intercepted the caravan
+twenty-five <i>li</i><a id="FNanchor_1" href="#Footnote_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> from Yün-nan Fu.</p>
+
+<p>On the way we passed a number of cormorant fishers,
+each with ten or a dozen birds sitting quietly upon the
+boat with outspread wings drying their feathers. Every
+bird has a ring about its neck, and is thus prevented
+from swallowing the fish which it catches by diving into
+the water.</p>
+
+<p>After waiting an hour for our caravan we saw the
+long train of mules and horses winding up the hill
+toward us. There were seventeen altogether, and in
+the midst of them rode the cook clinging desperately
+with both hands to a diminutive mule, his long legs
+dangling and a look of utter wretchedness upon his
+face. Just before the caravan reached us it began to
+rain, and the cook laboriously pulled on a suit of yellow
+oilskins which we had purchased for him in Yün-nan
+Fu. These, together with a huge yellow hat, completed
+a picture which made us roar with laughter;
+Heller gave the caption for it when he shouted, "Here
+comes the 'Yellow Peril.'"</p>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_1" href="#FNanchor_1" class="label">[1]</a> A <i>li</i> in this province equals one-third of an English mile.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" id="img_f84a" style="width: 366px;">
+ <img src="images/img_f84a.png" width="366" height="286" alt="" />
+ <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">Cormorant Fishers on the Lake at Yün-nan Fu</span></div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" id="img_f84b" style="width: 365px;">
+ <img src="images/img_f84b.png" width="365" height="287" alt="" />
+ <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">Our Camp at Chou Chou on the Way to Ta-li Fu</span></div>
+</div>
+
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_85">- 85 -</span></p>
+
+<p>We surveyed the tiny horses with dismay. As Heller
+vainly tried to get his girth tight enough to keep the
+saddle from sliding over the animal's tail he exclaimed,
+"Is this a horse or a squirrel I'm trying to ride?" But
+it was not so bad when we finally climbed aboard and
+found that we did not crush the little brutes.</p>
+
+<p>A seventy-pound box on each side of the saddle with
+a few odds and ends on top made a pack of at least
+one hundred and sixty pounds. This is heavy even for
+a large animal and for these tiny mules seemed an impossibility,
+but it is the usual weight, and the business-like
+way in which they moved off showed that they
+were not overloaded.</p>
+
+<p>The Yün-nan pack saddle is a remarkably ingenious
+arrangement. The load is strapped with a rawhide to
+a double A-shaped frame which fits loosely over a second
+saddle on the animal's back and is held in place
+by its own weight. If a mule falls the pack comes off
+and, moreover, it can be easily removed if the road is
+bad or whenever a stop is made. It has the great disadvantage,
+however, of giving the horses serious back
+sores which receive but scanty attention from the <i>mafus</i>
+(muleteers).</p>
+
+<p>When we were fairly started upon our long ride to
+Ta-li Fu the time slipped by in a succession of delightful
+days. Since this was the main caravan route the
+<i>mafus</i> had regular stages beyond which they would not
+go. If we did not stop for luncheon the march could
+be ended early in the afternoon and we could settle
+ourselves for the night in a temple which always proved
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_86">- 86 -</span>
+a veritable "haven of rest" after a long day in the saddle.
+A few pages from my wife's "Journal" of September
+fifteenth describes our camp at Lu-ho-we and
+our life on the road to Ta-li Fu.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p>We are sitting on the porch of an old, old temple. It is on
+a hilltop in a forest grove with the gray-walled town lying at
+our feet. The sun is flooding the flower-filled courtyard and
+throwing bars of golden light through the twisted branches of
+a bent old pine, over the stone well, and into the dim recesses
+behind the altar where a benevolent idol grins down upon us.</p>
+
+<p>We have been in the saddle for eight hours and it is enchanting
+to rest in this peaceful, aged temple. Outside children
+are shouting and laughing but all is quiet here save for
+the drip of water in the well, and the chatter of a magpie on
+the pine tree. Today we made the stage in one long march
+and now we can rest and browse among our books or wander
+with a gun along the cool, tree-shaded paths.</p>
+
+<p>The sun is hot at mid-day, although the mornings and evenings
+are cold, and tonight we shall build a fragrant fire of
+yellow pine, and talk for an hour before we go to sleep upon
+the porch where we can see the moon come up and the stars
+shining so low that they seem like tiny lanterns in the sky.</p>
+
+<p>It is seven days since we left Yün-nan Fu and each night
+we have come to temples such as this. There is an inexpressible
+charm about them, lying asleep, as it were, among the trees
+of their courtyards, with stately, pillared porches, and picturesque
+gables upturned to the sky. They seem so very, very
+old and filled with such great calm and peace.</p>
+
+<p>Sometimes they stand in the midst of a populous town and
+we ride through long streets between dirty houses, swarming
+with ragged women, filthy men, and screaming children; suddenly
+we come to the dilapidated entrance of our temple, pass
+through a courtyard, close the huge gates and are in another
+world.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_87">- 87 -</span></p>
+
+<p>We leave early every morning and the boys are up long before
+dawn. As we sleepily open our eyes we see their dark
+figures silhouetted against the brilliant camp fire, hear the
+yawns of the <i>mafus</i> and the contented crunching of the mules
+as they chew their beans.</p>
+
+<p>Wu appears with a lantern and calls out the hour and before
+we have fully dressed the odor of coffee has found its way
+to the remotest corner of the temple, and a breakfast of pancakes,
+eggs, and oatmeal is awaiting on the folding table
+spread with a clean white cloth. While we are eating, the
+beds are packed, and the loads retied, accompanied by a running
+fire of exhortations to the <i>mafus</i> who cause us endless
+trouble.</p>
+
+<p>They are a hard lot, these <i>mafus</i>. Force seems to be the only
+thing they understand and kindness produces no results. If
+the march is long and we stop for tiffin it is well-nigh impossible
+to get them started within three hours without the aid of
+threats. Once after a long halt when all seemed ready, we rode
+ahead only to wait by the roadside for hours before the caravan
+arrived. As soon as we were out of sight they had begun
+to shoe their mules and that night we did not make our stage
+until long after dark.</p>
+
+<p>In the morning when we see the first loads actually on the
+horses we ride off at the head of the caravan followed by a
+straggling line of mules and horses picking their way over
+the jagged stones of the road. It is delightful in the early
+morning for the air is fresh and brisk like that of October at
+home, but later in the day when the sun is higher it is uncomfortably
+hot, and we are glad to find a bit of shade where we
+can rest until the caravan arrives.</p>
+
+<p>The roads are execrable. The Chinese have a proverb which
+says: "A road is good for ten years and bad for ten thousand,"
+and this applies most excellently to those of Yün-nan.
+The main caravan highways are paved with huge stones to
+make them passable during the rainy season, but after a few
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_88">- 88 -</span>
+years' wear the blocks become broken and irregular, the earth is
+washed from between them and they are upturned at impossible
+angles. The result is a chaotic mass which by no stretch
+of imagination can be called a road. Where the stones are
+still in place they have been worn to such glasslike smoothness
+by the thousands of passing mules that it is well-nigh impossible
+to walk upon them. As a result a caravan avoids the
+paving whenever it can find a path and sometimes dozens of
+deeply-cut trails wind over the hills beside the road.</p>
+
+<p>We are seldom on level ground, for ten per cent of the entire
+province is mountainous and we soon lost count of the ranges
+which we crossed. It is slow, hard work, toiling up the steep
+mountain-sides, but once on the ridges where the country is
+spread out below us like a great, green relief map, there is a
+wonderful exhilaration, and we climb higher with a joyous sense
+of freedom.</p>
+
+<p>Yün-nan means "south of the cloud" and every morning the
+peaks about us are shrouded in fog. Sometimes the veil-like
+mists still float about the mountain tops when we climb into
+them, and we are suddenly enveloped in a wet gray blanket
+which sends us shivering into the coats tied to our saddles.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>For centuries this road has been one of the main
+trade arteries through the province, and with the total
+lack of conservation ideas so characteristic of the Chinese,
+every available bit of natural forest has been cut
+away. As a result the mountains are desert wastes of
+sandstone alternating with grass-covered hills sometimes
+clothed with groves of pines or spruces. These trees
+have all been planted, and ere they have reached a
+height of fifteen or twenty feet will yield to the insistent
+demand for wood which is ever present with
+the Chinese.</p>
+
+<p>The ignorance of the need of forest conservation
+is an illuminating commentary on Chinese education.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_89">- 89 -</span>
+Mr. William Hanna, a missionary of Ta-li Fu,
+told us that one day he was riding over this same road
+with a Chinese gentleman, a deep scholar, who was
+considered one of the best educated men of the province.
+Pointing to the barren hills washed clean of soil
+and deeply worn by countless floods, Mr. Hanna remarked
+that all this could have been prevented, and
+that instead of a rocky waste there might have been
+a fertile hillside, had the trees been left to grow.</p>
+
+<p>The Chinese scholar listened in amazement to facts
+which every western schoolboy has learned ere he is
+twelve years old, but of which he was ignorant because
+they are not a part of Confucius' teachings. To study
+modern science is considered a waste of time by the orthodox
+Chinese for "everything good must be old," and
+all his life he delves into the past utterly neglectful of
+the present.</p>
+
+<p>Every valley along the road was green with rice fields
+and this, together with the deforestation of the mountains,
+is responsible for the almost total lack of animal
+life. Night after night we set traps about our temple
+camps only to find them untouched in the morning.
+There were no mammals with the exception of a few
+red-bellied squirrels (<i>Callosciurus erythræus</i> subsp.)
+and now and then a tree shrew (<i>Tupaia belangeri chinensis</i>).</p>
+
+<p>The latter is an interesting species. Although it is
+an Insectivore, and a relative of the tiny shrews which
+live in holes and under logs, it has squirrel-like habits
+and in appearance is like a squirrel to which it is totally
+unrelated. Instead of the thinly haired mouselike
+tails of the ordinary shrews the tupaias have developed
+long bushy tails and in fact look and act so much like
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_90">- 90 -</span>
+squirrels that it is difficult to convince the white residents
+of Yün-nan, who are accustomed to see them run
+about the hedges and walls of their courtyards that the
+two are quite unrelated.</p>
+
+<p>The tree shrews are found only in Asia and are one
+of the most remarkable instances of a superficial resemblance
+between unrelated animals with similar habits.
+A study of their anatomy has revealed the fact that
+they represent a distinct group which is connected with
+the monkeys (lemurs).</p>
+
+<p>Although birds were fairly abundant the species were
+not varied. We were about a month too early for the
+ducks and geese, which during the winter swarm into
+Yün-nan from the north, and without a dog, pheasants
+are difficult to get. In fact we were greatly disappointed
+in the game birds, for we had expected good
+pheasant shooting even along the road and virtually
+none were to be found.</p>
+
+<p>The main caravan roads of Yün-nan held little of
+interest for us as naturalists, but as students of native
+customs they were fascinating, for the life of the province
+passed before us in panoramic completeness. Chinese
+villages wherever we have seen them are marvels
+of utter and abandoned filth and although those of Yün-nan
+are no exception to the rule, they are considerably
+better than the coast cities.</p>
+
+<p>Pigs, chickens, horses and cows live in happy communion
+with the human inmates of the houses, the pigs
+especially being treated as we favor dogs at home. On
+the door steps children play with the swine, patting and
+pounding them, and one of my friends said that he
+had actually seen a mother bring her baby to be nursed
+by a sow with her family of piglets.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_91">- 91 -</span></p>
+
+<p>The natives were pleasant and friendly and seemed
+to be industrious. Wherever the deforestation had left
+sufficient soil on the lower hillsides patches of corn
+took the place of the former poppy fields for opium.
+In 1906, the Empress Dowager issued an edict prohibiting
+the growing of opium, and gave guarantees
+to the British that it would be entirely stamped out
+during the next ten years. Strangely enough these
+promises have been faithfully kept, and in Yün-nan
+the hillsides, which were once white with poppy blossoms,
+are now yellow with corn. In all our 2000 miles
+of riding over unfrequented trails and in the most out-of-the-way
+spots we found only one instance where
+opium was being cultivated.</p>
+
+<p>The mandarin of each district accompanied by a
+guard of soldiers makes periodical excursions during the
+seasons when the poppy is in blossom, cuts down the
+plants if any are found, and punishes the owners. China
+deserves the greatest credit for so successfully dealing
+with a question which affects such a large part of her
+four hundred millions of people and which presents
+such unusual difficulties because of its economic importance.</p>
+
+<p>Just across the frontier in Burma, opium is grown
+freely and much is smuggled into Yün-nan. Therefore
+its use has by no means been abandoned, especially in
+the south of the province, and in some towns it is
+smoked openly in the tea houses. In August, 1916, just
+before we reached Yün-nan Fu there was an <i>exposé</i>
+of opium smuggling which throws an illuminating side
+light on the corruption of some Chinese officials.</p>
+
+<p>Opium can be purchased in Yün-nan Fu for two
+dollars (Mexican) an ounce, while in Shanghai it is
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_92">- 92 -</span>
+worth ten dollars (Mexican). Tang (the Military Governor),
+the Minister of Justice, the Governor's brother
+and three members of Parliament had collected six hundred
+pounds of opium which they undertook to transfer
+to Shanghai.</p>
+
+<p>Their request that no examination of their baggage
+be made by the French during their passage through
+Tonking was granted, and a similar favor was procured
+for them at Shanghai. Thus the sixty cases were safely
+landed, but a few hours later, through the opium
+combine, foreign detectives learned of the smuggling
+and the boxes were seized.</p>
+
+<p>The Minister of Justice denied all knowledge of the
+opium, as did the three Parliament members, and Governor
+Tang was not interrogated as that would be quite
+contrary to the laws of Chinese etiquette; however, he
+will not receive reappointment when his official term
+expires.</p>
+
+<p>As we neared Ta-li Fu, and indeed along the entire
+road, we were amazed at the prevalence of goitre. At a
+conservative estimate two out of every five persons were
+suffering from the disease, some having two, or even
+three, globules of uneven size hanging from their throats.
+In one village six out of seven adults were affected, but
+apparently children under twelve or fourteen years are
+free from it as we saw no evidences in either sex. Probably
+the disease is in a large measure due to the drinking
+water, for it is most prevalent in the limestone regions
+and seems to be somewhat localized.</p>
+
+<p>Every day we passed "chairs," or as we named them,
+"mountain schooners," in each of which a fat Chinaman
+sprawled while two or four sweating coolies bore him up
+hill. The chair is rigged between a pair of long bamboo
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_93">- 93 -</span>
+poles and consists of two sticks swung by ropes on which
+is piled a heap of bedding. Overhead a light bamboo
+frame supports a piece of yellow oil-cloth, which completely
+shuts in the occupant, except from the front and
+rear.</p>
+
+<p>The Chinese consider it undignified to walk, or even
+to ride, and if one is about to make an official visit nothing
+less than a four-man chair is required. Haste is just
+as much tabooed in the "front families" as physical exertion,
+and is utterly incomprehensible to the Chinese.
+Major Davies says that while he was in Tonking before
+the railroad to Yün-nan Fu had been constructed, M.
+Doumer, the Governor-General of French Indo-China,
+who was a very energetic man, rode to Yün-nan Fu in an
+extraordinarily short time. While the Europeans greatly
+admired his feat, the Chinese believed he must be in some
+difficulty from which only the immediate assistance of
+the Viceroy of Yün-nan could extricate him.</p>
+
+<p>In Yün-nan it is necessary to carry one's own bedding
+for the inns supply nothing but food, and consequently
+when a Chinaman rides from one city to another he piles
+a great heap of blankets on his horse's back and climbs on
+top with his legs astride the animal's neck in front. The
+horses are trained to a rapid trot instead of a gallop, and
+I know of no more ridiculous sight than a Chinaman
+bouncing along a road on the summit of a veritable
+mountain of bedding with his arms waving and streamers
+flying in every direction. He is assisted in keeping
+his balance by broad brass stirrups in which he usually
+hooks his heels and guides his horse by means of a rawhide
+bridle decorated with dozens of bangles which make
+a comforting jingle whenever he moves.</p>
+
+<p>On the sixth day out when approaching the city of
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_94">- 94 -</span>
+Chu-hsuing Fu we took a short cut through the fields
+leaving the caravan to follow the main road. The trail
+brought us to a river about forty feet wide spanned by a
+bridge made from two narrow planks, with a wide
+median fissure. We led our horses across without trouble
+and Heller started to follow. He had reached the center
+of the bridge when his horse shied at the hole, jumped
+to one side, hung suspended on his belly for a moment,
+and toppled off into the water.</p>
+
+<p>The performance had all happened behind Heller's
+back and when he turned about in time to see his horse
+diving into the river, he stood looking down at him with
+a most ludicrous expression of surprise and disgust,
+while the animal climbed out and began to graze as
+quietly as though nothing had happened.</p>
+
+<p>Chu-hsuing was interesting as being the home of Miss
+Cordelia Morgan, a niece of Senator Morgan of Virginia.
+We found her to be a most charming and determined
+young woman who had established a mission
+station in the city under considerable difficulties. The
+mandarin and other officials by no means wished to
+have a foreign lady, alone and unattended, settle down
+among them and become a responsibility which might
+cause them endless trouble, and although she had rented
+a house before she arrived, the owner refused to allow
+her to move in.</p>
+
+<p>She could get no assistance from the mandarin and
+was forced to live for two months in a dirty Chinese inn,
+swarming with vermin, until they realized that she was
+determined not to be driven away. She eventually obtained
+a house and while she considers herself comfortable,
+I doubt if others would care to share her life
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_95">- 95 -</span>
+unless they had an equal amount of determination and enthusiasm.</p>
+
+<p>At that time she had not placed her work under the
+charge of a mission board and was carrying it on independently.
+Until our arrival she had seen but one white
+person in a year and a half, was living entirely upon
+Chinese food, and had tasted no butter or milk in months.</p>
+
+<p>We had a delightful dinner with Miss Morgan and the
+next morning as our caravan wound down the long hill
+past her house she stood at the window to wave good-by.
+She kept her head behind the curtains, and doubtless if
+we could have seen her face we would have found tears
+upon it, for the evening with another woman of her kind
+had brought to her a breath of the old life which she had
+resolutely forsaken and which so seldom penetrated to
+her self-appointed exile.</p>
+
+<p>On our ninth day from Yün-nan Fu we had a welcome
+bit of excitement. We were climbing a long mountain
+trail to a pass over eight thousand feet high and were
+near the summit when a boy dashed breathlessly up to
+the caravan, jabbering wildly in Chinese. It required
+fifteen minutes of questioning before we finally learned
+that bandits had attacked a big caravan less than a mile
+ahead of us and were even then ransacking the loads.</p>
+
+<p>He said that there were two hundred and fifty of them
+and that they had killed two <i>mafus</i>; almost immediately
+a second gesticulating Chinaman appeared and gave the
+number as three hundred and fifty and the dead as five.
+Allowing for the universal habit of exaggeration we felt
+quite sure that there were not more than fifty, and subsequently
+learned that forty was the correct number and
+that no one had been killed.</p>
+
+<p>Our caravan was in a bad place to resist an attack but
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_96">- 96 -</span>
+we got out our rifles and made for a village at the top of
+the pass. There were not more than a half dozen mud
+houses and in the narrow street between them perfect
+bedlam reigned. Several small caravans had halted to
+wait for us, and men, horses, loads, and chairs were
+packed and jammed together so tightly that it seemed
+impossible ever to extricate them. Our arrival added to
+the confusion, but leaving the <i>mafus</i> to scream and chatter
+among themselves, we scouted ahead to learn the true
+condition of affairs.</p>
+
+<p>Almost within sight we found the caravan which had
+been robbed. Paper and cloth were strewn about, loads
+overturned, and loose mules wandered over the hillside.
+The frightened <i>mafus</i> were straggling back and told us
+that about forty bandits had suddenly surrounded the
+caravan, shooting and brandishing long knives. Instantly
+the <i>mafus</i> had run for their lives leaving the
+brigands to rifle the packs unmolested. The goods
+chiefly belonged to the retiring mandarin of Li-chiang,
+and included some five thousand dollars worth of jade
+and gold dust, all of which was taken.</p>
+
+<p>Yün-nan, like most of the outlying provinces of China,
+is infested with brigands who make traveling very unsafe.
+There are, of course, organized bands of robbers
+at all times, but these have been greatly augmented
+since the rebellion by dismissed soldiers or deserters who
+have taken to brigandage as the easiest means to avoid
+starvation.</p>
+
+<p>The Chinese Government is totally unable to cope with
+the situation and makes only half-hearted attempts to
+punish even the most flagrant robberies, so that unguarded
+caravans carrying valuable material which
+arrive at their destination unmolested consider themselves
+very lucky.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" id="img_f96a" style="width: 367px;">
+ <img src="images/img_f96a.png" width="367" height="285" alt="" />
+ <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">The Pagoda at Ta-li Fu</span></div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" id="img_f96b" style="width: 367px;">
+ <img src="images/img_f96b.png" width="367" height="291" alt="" />
+ <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">The Dead of China</span></div>
+</div>
+
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_97">- 97 -</span></p>
+
+<p>So far as our expedition was concerned we did not feel
+great apprehension for it was generally known that we
+carried but little money and our equipment, except for
+guns, could not readily be disposed of. Throughout the
+entire expedition we paid our <i>mafus</i> and servants a part
+of their wages in advance when they were engaged, and
+arranged to have money sent by the mandarins or the
+British American Tobacco Co., to some large town which
+would be reached after several months. There the balance
+on salaries was paid and we carried with us only
+enough money for our daily needs.</p>
+
+<p>Before we left Yün-nan Fu we were assured by the
+Foreign Office that we would be furnished with a guard
+of soldiers—an honor few foreigners escape! The first
+day out we had four, all armed with umbrellas! These
+accompanied us to the first camp where they delivered
+their official message to the <i>yamen</i> and intrusted us to
+the care of others for our next day's journey.</p>
+
+<p>Sometimes they were equipped with guns of the vintage
+of 1872, but their cartridges were seldom of the'
+same caliber as the rifles and in most cases the ubiquitous
+umbrella was their only weapon. Just what good
+they would be in a real attack it is difficult to imagine,
+except to divert attention by breaking the speed limits
+in running away.</p>
+
+<p>Several times in the morning we believed we had escaped
+them but they always turned up in an hour or two.
+They were not so much a nuisance as an expense, for
+custom requires that each be paid twenty cents (Mexican)
+a day both going and returning. They are of some
+use in lending an official aspect to an expedition and in
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_98">- 98 -</span>
+requisitioning anything which may be needed; also they
+act as an insurance policy, for if a caravan is robbed
+a claim can be entered against the government, whereas
+if the escort is refused the traveler has no redress.</p>
+
+<p>It is amusing and often irritating to see the cavalier
+way in which these men treat other caravans or the peasants
+along the road. Waving their arms and shouting
+oaths they shoe horses, mules or chairs out of the way regardless
+of the confusion into which the approaching
+caravan may be thrown. They must also be closely
+watched for they are none too honest and are prone to
+rely upon the moral support of foreigners to take whatever
+they wish without the formality of payment.</p>
+
+<p>We were especially careful to respect the property on
+which we camped and to be just in all our dealings with
+the natives, but it was sometimes difficult to prevent the
+<i>mafus</i> or soldiers from tearing down fences for firewood
+or committing similar depredations. Wherever such acts
+were discovered we made suitable payment and punished
+the offenders by deducting a part of their wages. Foreigners
+cannot respect too carefully the rights of the
+peasants, for upon their conduct rests the reception
+which will be accorded to all others who follow in their
+footsteps.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_99">- 99 -</span></p>
+
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XI">CHAPTER XI</h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class="caption3">TA-LI FU</p>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">On</span> Friday, September 28, we were at Chou Chou and
+camped in a picturesque little temple on the outskirts
+of the town. As the last stage was only six hours we
+spent half the morning in taking moving pictures of the
+caravan and left for Ta-li at eleven-thirty after an early
+<b>tiffin</b>.</p>
+
+<p>About two o'clock in the afternoon we reached Hsia-kuan,
+a large commercial town at the lower end of the
+lake. Its population largely consists of merchants and
+it is by all means the most important business place of interior
+Yün-nan; Ta-li, eight miles away, is the residence
+and official city.</p>
+
+<p>At Hsia-kuan we called upon the salt commissioner,
+Mr. Lui, to whom Mr. Bode, the salt inspector at Yün-nan
+Fu, had very kindly telegraphed money for my account,
+and after the usual tea and cigarettes we went oil
+to Ta-li Fu over a perfectly level paved road, which was
+so slippery that it was well-nigh impossible for either
+horse or man to move over it faster than a walk.</p>
+
+<p>This was the hottest day of our experience in Northern
+Yün-nan, the thermometer registering 85°+ in the
+shade, which is the usual mid-summer temperature, but
+the moment the sun dropped behind the mountains it
+was cool enough for one to enjoy a fire. Even in the
+winter it is never very cold and its delightful summer
+should make Northern Yün-nan a wonderful health
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_100">- 100 -</span>
+resort for the residents of fever-stricken Burma and
+Tonking.</p>
+
+<p>We rode toward Ta-li with the beautiful lake on our
+right hand and on the other the Ts'ang Shan mountains
+which rise to a height of fourteen thousand feet.
+As we approached the city we could see dimly outlined
+against the foothills the slender shafts of three ancient
+pagodas. They were erected to the <i>feng-shui</i>, the spirits
+of the "earth, wind, and water," and for fifteen hundred
+years have stood guard over the stone graves which,
+in countless thousands, are spread along the foot of
+the mountains like a vast gray blanket. In the late afternoon
+sunlight the walls of the city seemed to recede
+before us and the picturesque gate loomed shadowy and
+unreal even when we passed through its gloomy arch
+and clattered up the stone-paved street.</p>
+
+<p>We soon discovered the residence of Mr. H. G. Evans,
+agent of the British American Tobacco Company, to
+whose care our first caravan had been consigned, and he
+very hospitably invited us to remain with him while we
+were in Ta-li Fu. This was only the beginning of Mr.
+Evans' assistance to the Expedition, for he acted as its
+banker throughout our stay in Yün-nan, cashing checks
+and transferring money for us whenever we needed
+funds.</p>
+
+<p>The British American Tobacco Company and the
+Standard Oil Company of New York are veritable
+"oases in the desert" for travelers because their agencies
+are found in the most out-of-the-way spots in Asia
+and their employees are always ready to extend the cordial
+hospitality of the East to wandering foreigners.</p>
+
+<p>Besides Mr. Evans the white residents of Ta-li Fu include
+the Reverend William J. Hanna, his wife and two
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_101">- 101 -</span>
+other ladies, all of the China Inland Mission. Mr.
+Hanna is doing a really splendid work, especially along
+educational and medical lines. He has built a beautiful
+little chapel, a large school, and a dispensary in connection
+with his house, where he and his wife are occupied
+every morning treating the minor ills of the natives,
+Christian and heathen alike.</p>
+
+<p>Ta-li Fu was the scene of tremendous slaughter at
+the time of the Mohammedan war, when the Chinese
+captured the city through the treachery of its commander
+and turned the streets to rivers of blood. The
+Mohammedans were almost exterminated, and the
+ruined stone walls testify to the completeness of the Chinese
+devastation.</p>
+
+<p>The mandarin at Ta-li Fu was good-natured but dissipated
+and corrupt. He called upon us the evening of
+our arrival and almost immediately asked if we had any
+shotgun cartridges. He remarked that he had a gun
+but no shells, and as we did not offer to give him any
+he continued to hint broadly at every opportunity.</p>
+
+<p>The mandarins of lower rank often buy their posts
+and depend upon what they can make in "squeeze"
+from the natives of their district for reimbursement and
+a profit on their investment. In almost every case
+which is brought to them for adjustment the decision
+is withheld until the magistrate has learned which of
+the parties is prepared to offer the highest price for a
+settlement in his favor. The Chinese peasant, accepting
+this as the established custom, pays the bribe without
+a murmur if it is not too exorbitant and, in fact, would
+be exceedingly surprised if "justice" were dispensed in
+any other way.</p>
+
+<p>My personal relations with the various mandarins
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_102">- 102 -</span>
+whom I was constantly required to visit officially were
+always of the pleasantest and I was treated with
+great courtesy. It was apparent wherever we were
+in China that there was a total lack of antiforeign feeling
+in both the peasant and official classes and except
+for the brigands, who are beyond the law, undoubtedly
+white men can travel in perfect safety anywhere in the
+republic. Before my first official visit Wu gave me a
+lesson in etiquette. The Chinese are exceedingly punctilious
+and it is necessary to conform to their standards
+of politeness for they do not realize, or accept in excuse,
+the fact that Western customs differ from their
+own.</p>
+
+<p>At the end of the reception room in every <i>yamen</i>
+is a raised platform on which the visitor sits at the <i>left
+hand</i> of the mandarin; it would be exceedingly rude for
+a magistrate to seat the caller on his right hand. Tea is
+always served immediately but is not supposed to be
+tasted until the official does so himself; the cup must then
+be lifted to the lips with both hands. Usually when the
+magistrate sips his tea it is a sign that the interview is
+ended. When leaving, the mandarin follows his visitor
+to the doorway of the outer court, while the latter continually
+bows and protests asking him not to come so
+far.</p>
+
+<p>Ta-li Fu and Hsia-kuan are important fur markets
+and we spent some time investigating the shops. One
+important find was the panda (<i>Ælurus fulgens</i>). The
+panda is an aberrant member of the raccoon family but
+looks rather like a fox; in fact the Chinese call it the
+"fire fox" because of its beautiful, red fur. Pandas were
+supposed to be exceedingly rare and we could hardly
+believe it possible when we saw dozens of coats made
+from their skins hanging in the fur shops.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" id="img_f102a" style="width: 365px;">
+ <img src="images/img_f102a.png" width="365" height="283" alt="" />
+ <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">The Residence of Rev. William J. Hanna at Ta-li Fu</span></div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" id="img_f102b" style="width: 364px;">
+ <img src="images/img_f102b.png" width="364" height="285" alt="" />
+ <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">The Gate and Main Street of Ta-li Fu</span></div>
+</div>
+
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_103">- 103 -</span></p>
+
+<p>Skins of the huge red-brown flying squirrel, <i>Petaurista
+yunnanensis</i>, were also used for clothing and the
+abundance of this animal was almost as great a surprise
+as the finding of the pandas. This is often true in the
+case of supposedly rare species. A few specimens may
+be obtained from the extreme limits of its range, or
+from a locality where it really is rare, and for years
+it may be almost unique in museum collections but eventually
+the proper locality may be visited and the animals
+found to be abundant.</p>
+
+<p>We saw several skins of the beautiful cat (<i>Felis
+temmincki</i>) which, with the snow leopard (<i>Felis uncia</i>), it
+was said came from Tibet. Civets, bears, foxes, and
+small cats were being used extensively for furs and pangolins
+could be purchased in the medicine shops. The
+scales of the pangolin are considered to be of great
+value in the treatment of certain diseases and the skins
+are usually sold by the pound as are the horns of deer,
+wapiti, gorals, and serows.</p>
+
+<p>Almost all of the fossil animals which have been obtained
+in China by foreigners have been purchased in
+apothecary shops. If a Chinaman discovers a fossil bed
+he guards it zealously for it represents an actual gold
+mine to him. The bones are ground into a fine powder,
+mixed with an acid, and a phosphate obtained which in
+reality has a certain value as a tonic. When a considerable
+amount of faith and Chinese superstition is added
+its efficacy assumes double proportions.</p>
+
+<p>Every year a few tiger skins find their way to Hsia-kuan
+from the southern part of the province along the
+Tonking border, but the good ones are quickly sold at
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_104">- 104 -</span>
+prices varying from twenty-five to fifty dollars (Mexican).
+Ten dollars is the usual price for leopard skins.</p>
+
+<p>Marco Polo visited Ta-li Fu in the thirteenth century
+and, among other things, he speaks of the fine horses
+from this part of the province. We were surprised to
+find that the animals are considerably larger and more
+heavily built than those of Yün-nan Fu and appear to
+be better in every way. A good riding horse can be
+purchased for seventy-five dollars (Mexican) but mules
+are worth about one hundred and fifty dollars because
+they are considered better pack animals.</p>
+
+<p>On the advice of men who had traveled much in the
+interior of Yün-nan we hired our caravan and riding animals
+instead of buying them outright, and subsequent
+experience showed the wisdom of this course. Saddle
+ponies, which are used only for short trips about the city,
+cannot endure continual traveling over the execrable
+roads of the interior where often it is impossible to feed
+them properly. If an entire caravan were purchased
+the leader of the expedition would have unceasing trouble
+with the <i>mafus</i> to insure even ordinary care of the
+animals, an opportunity would be given for endless
+"squeeze" in the purchase of food, and there are other
+reasons too numerous to mention why in this province
+the plan is impracticable.</p>
+
+<p>However, the caravan ponies do try one's patience to
+the limit. They are trained only to follow a leader, and
+if one happens to be behind another horse it is well-nigh
+impossible to persuade it to pass. Beat or kick the beast
+as one will, it only backs up or crowds closely to the
+horse in front. On the first day out Heller, who was on
+a particularly bad animal, when trying to pass one of
+us began to cavort about like a circus rider, prancing
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_105">- 105 -</span>
+from side to side and backward but never going forward.
+We shouted that we would wait for him to go on but
+he replied helplessly, "I can't, this horse isn't under my
+management," and we found very soon that our animals
+were not under our management either!</p>
+
+<p>In a town near Ta-li Fu we were in front of the
+caravan with Wu and Heller: Wu stopped to buy a
+basket of mushrooms but his horse refused to move
+ahead. Beat as he would, the animal only backed in a
+circle, ours followed, and in a few moments we were
+packed together so tightly that it was impossible even
+to dismount. There we sat, helpless, to the huge delight
+of the villagers until rescued by a <i>mafu</i>. As soon as he
+led Wu's horse forward the others proceeded as quietly
+as lambs.</p>
+
+<p>We paid forty cents (Mexican) a day for each animal
+while traveling, and fifteen or twenty cents when
+in camp, but the rate varies somewhat in different parts
+of the province, and in the west and south, along the
+Burma border fifty cents is the usual price. When
+a caravan is engaged the necessary <i>mafus</i> are included
+and they buy food for themselves and beans and hay
+for the animals.</p>
+
+<p>Ever since leaving Yün-nan Fu the cook we engaged
+at Paik-hoi had been a source of combined irritation and
+amusement. He was a lanky, effeminate gentleman who
+never before had ridden a horse, and who was physically
+and mentally unable to adapt himself to camp life.
+After five months in the field he appeared to be as helpless
+when the caravan camped for the night as when we
+first started, and he would stand vacantly staring until
+someone directed him what to do. But he was a good
+cook, when he wished to exert himself, and had the great
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_106">- 106 -</span>
+asset of knowing a considerable amount of English.
+While we were in Ta-li Fu Mr. Evans overheard him
+relating his experiences on the road to several of the
+other servants. "Of course," said the cook, "it is a fine
+way to see the country, but the riding! My goodness,
+that's awful! After the third day I didn't know whether
+to go on or turn back—I was so sore I couldn't sit down
+even on a chair to say nothing of a horse!"</p>
+
+<p>He had evidently fully made up his mind not to "see
+the country" that way for the day after we left Ta-li Fu
+<i>en route</i> to the Tibetan frontier he became violently ill.
+Although we could find nothing the matter with him he
+made such a good case for himself that we believed he
+really was quite sick and treated him accordingly. The
+following morning, however, he sullenly refused to proceed,
+and we realized that his illness was of the mind
+rather than the body. As he had accepted two months'
+salary in advance and had already sent it to his wife in
+Paik-hoi, we were in a position to use a certain amount
+of forceful persuasion which entirely accomplished its
+object and illness did not trouble him thereafter.</p>
+
+<p>The loss of a cook is a serious matter to a large expedition.
+Good meals and varied food must be provided
+if the personnel is to work at its highest efficiency and
+cooking requires a vast amount of thought and time. In
+Yün-nan natives who can cook foreign food are by no
+means easy to find and when our Paik-hoi gentleman
+finally left us upon our return to Ta-li Fu we were fortunate
+in obtaining an exceedingly competent man to
+take his place through the good offices of Mr. Hanna.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_107">- 107 -</span></p>
+
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XII">CHAPTER XII</h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class="caption3">LI-CHIANG AND "THE TEMPLE OF THE FLOWERS"</p>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">We</span> left a part of our outfit with Mr. Evans at Ta-li
+Fu and with a new caravan of twenty-five animals traveled
+northward for six days to Li-chiang Fu. By taking
+a small road we hoped to find good collecting in the
+pine forests three days from Ta-li, but instead there was
+a total absence of animal life. The woods were beautiful,
+parklike stretches which in a country like California
+would be full of game, but here were silent and deserted.
+During the fourth and fifth days we were still in the
+forests, but on the sixth we crossed a pass 10,000 feet
+high and descended abruptly into a long marshy plain
+where at the far end were the gray outlines of Li-chiang
+dimly visible against the mountains.</p>
+
+<p>Wu and I galloped ahead to find a temple for our
+camp, leaving Heller and my wife to follow. A few
+pages from her journal tell of their entry into the
+city.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p>We rode along a winding stone causeway and halted on the
+outskirts of the town to wait until the caravan arrived. Neither
+Roy nor Wu was in sight but we expected that the <i>mafus</i>
+would ask where they had gone and follow, for of coarse we
+could not speak a word of the language. Already there was
+quite a sensation as we came down the street, for our sudden
+appearance seemed to have stupefied the people with amazement.
+One old lady looked at me with an indescribable expression and
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_108">- 108 -</span>
+uttered what sounded exactly like a long-drawn "Mon Dieu"
+of disagreeable surprise.</p>
+
+<p>I tried smiling at them but they appeared too astonished to
+appreciate our friendliness and in return merely stared with
+open mouths and eyes. We halted and immediately the street
+was blocked by crowds of men, women, and children who poured
+out of the houses, shops, and cross-streets to gaze in rapt attention.
+When the caravan arrived we moved on again expecting
+that the <i>mafus</i> had learned where Roy had gone, but they
+seemed to be wandering aimlessly through the narrow winding
+streets. Even though we did not find a camping place we afforded
+the natives intense delight.</p>
+
+<p>I felt as though I were the chief actor in a circus parade
+at home, but the most remarkable attraction there could not
+have equaled our unparalleled success in Li-chiang. On the second
+excursion through the town we passed down a cross-street,
+and suddenly from a courtyard at the right we heard feminine
+voices speaking English.</p>
+
+<p>"It's a girl. No, it's a boy. No, no, can't you see her hair,
+it's a girl!" Just then we caught sight of three ladies, unmistakably
+foreigners although dressed in Chinese costume. They
+were Mrs. A. Kok, wife of the resident Pentecostal Missionary,
+and two assistants, who rushed into the street as soon as
+they had determined my sex and literally "fell upon my neck."
+They had not seen a white woman since their arrival there
+four years ago and it seemed to them that I had suddenly
+dropped from the sky.</p>
+
+<p>While we were talking Wu appeared to guide us to the
+camp. They had chosen a beautiful temple with a flower-filled
+courtyard on the summit of a hill overlooking the city. It was
+wonderfully clean and when our beds, tables, and chairs were
+spread on the broad stone porch it seemed like a real home.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" id="img_f108a" style="width: 368px;">
+ <img src="images/img_f108a.png" width="368" height="532" alt="" />
+ <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">One of the Pagodas at Ta-li Fu</span></div>
+</div>
+
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_109">- 109 -</span></p>
+
+<p>The next days were busy ones for us all, Roy and Heller
+setting traps, and I working at my photography. We let it be
+known that we would pay well for specimens, and there was an
+almost uninterrupted procession of men and boys carrying long
+sticks, on which were strung frogs, rats, toads, and snakes.
+They would simply beam with triumph and enthusiasm. Our
+fame spread and more came, bringing the most ridiculous tame
+things—pigeons, maltese cats, dogs, white rabbits, caged birds,
+and I even believe we might have purchased a girl baby or two,
+for mothers stood about with little brown kiddies on their
+backs as though they really would like to offer them to us but
+hardly dared.</p>
+
+<p>The temple priest was a good looking, smooth-faced chap,
+and hidden under his coat he brought dozens of skins. I believe
+that his religious vows did not allow him to handle animals—openly—and
+so he would beckon Roy into the darkness of the
+temple with a most mysterious air, and would extract all sorts
+of things from his sleeves just like a sleight-of-hand performer.
+He was a rich man when we left!</p>
+
+<p>The people are mostly tribesmen—Mosos, Lolos, Tibetans,
+and many others. The girls wear their hair "bobbed off" in
+front and with a long plait in back. They wash their hair
+once—on their wedding day—and then it is wrapped up in
+turbans for the rest of their lives. The Tibetan women dress
+their hair in dozens of tiny braids, but I don't believe there is
+any authority that they ever wash it, or themselves either.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Li-chiang was our first collecting camp and we never
+had a better one. On the morning after our arrival
+Heller found mammals in half his traps, and in the
+afternoon we each put out a line of forty traps which
+brought us fifty mammals of eleven species. This was
+a wonderful relief after the many days of travel through
+country devoid of animal life.</p>
+
+<p>Our traps contained shrews of two species, meadow
+voles, Asiatic white-footed mice, spiny mice, rats, squirrels,
+and tree shrews. The small mammals were exceedingly
+abundant and easy to catch, but after the first day
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_110">- 110 -</span>
+we began to have difficulty with the natives who stole
+our traps. We usually marked them with a bit of cotton,
+and the boys would follow an entire line down a
+hedge, taking every one. Sometimes they even brought
+specimens to us for sale which we knew had been caught
+in our stolen traps!</p>
+
+<p>The traps were set under logs and stumps and in the
+grass where we found the "runways" or paths which
+mice, rats and voles often make. These animals begin
+to move about just after dark, and we usually would
+inspect our traps with a lantern about nine o'clock in
+the evening. This not only gave the trap a double chance
+to be filled but we also secured perfect specimens, for
+such species as mice and shrews are cannibalistic, and
+almost every night, if the specimens were not taken out
+early in the evening, several would be partly eaten.</p>
+
+<p>Small mammals are often of much greater interest
+and importance scientifically than large ones, for, especially
+among the Insectivores, there are many primitive
+forms which are apparently of ancestral stock and
+throw light on the evolutionary history of other living
+groups.</p>
+
+<p>Li-chiang is a fur market of considerable importance
+for the Tibetans bring down vast quantities of skins for
+sale and trade. Lambs, goats, foxes, cats, civets, pandas,
+and flying squirrels hang in the shops and there are dozens
+of fur dressers who do really excellent tanning.</p>
+
+<p>This city is a most interesting place especially on
+market day, for its inhabitants represent many different
+tribes with but comparatively few Chinese. By far the
+greatest percentage of natives are the Mosos who are
+semi-Tibetan in their life and customs. They were originally
+an independent race who ruled a considerable part
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_111">- 111 -</span>
+of northern Yün-nan, and Li-chiang was their ancient
+capital. To the effeminate and "highly civilized" Chinese
+they are "barbarians," but we found them to be
+simple, honest and wholly delightful people. Many of
+those whom we met later had never seen a white woman,
+and yet their inherent decency was in the greatest contrast
+to that of the Chinese who consider themselves so
+immeasurably their superior.</p>
+
+<p>The Mosos have large herds of sheep and cattle,
+and this is the one place in the Orient except in large
+cities along the coast, where we could obtain fresh milk
+and butter. As with the Tibetans, buttered tea and
+<i>tsamba</i> (parched oatmeal) are the great essentials, but
+they also grow quantities of delicious vegetables and
+fruit. Buttered tea is prepared by churning fresh butter
+into hot tea until the two have become well mixed.
+It is then thickened with finely ground <i>tsamba</i> until a
+ball is formed which is eaten with the fingers. The
+combination is distinctly good when the ingredients are
+fresh, but if the butter happens to be rancid the less
+said of it the better.</p>
+
+<p>The natives of this region are largely agriculturists
+and raise great quantities of squash, turnips, carrots,
+cabbage, potatoes, onions, corn, peas, beans, oranges,
+pears, persimmons and nuts. While traveling we filled
+our saddle pockets with pears and English walnuts or
+chestnuts and could replenish our stock at almost any
+village along the road.</p>
+
+<p>Everything was absurdly cheap. Eggs were usually
+about eight cents (Mexican) a dozen, and we could
+always purchase a chicken for an empty tin can, or
+two for a bottle. In fact, the latter was the greatest
+desideratum and when offers of money failed to induce
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_112">- 112 -</span>
+a native to pose for the camera a bottle nearly always
+would decide matters in our favor.</p>
+
+<p>In Li-chiang we learned that there was good shooting
+only twelve miles north of the city on the Snow Mountain
+range, the highest peak of which rises 18,000 feet
+above the sea. We left a part of our outfit at Mr.
+Kok's house and engaged a caravan of seventeen mules
+to take us to the hunting grounds. Mr. Kok assisted
+us in numberless ways while we were in the vicinity
+of Li-chiang and in other parts of the country. He took
+charge of all our mail, sending it to us by runners, loaned
+us money when it was difficult to get cash from Ta-li Fu
+and helped us to engage servants and caravans.</p>
+
+<p>It had rained almost continually for five days and a
+dense gray curtain of fog hung far down in the valley,
+but on the morning of October 11 we awoke to find ourselves
+in another world. We were in a vast amphitheater
+of encircling mountains, white almost to their bases,
+rising ridge on ridge, like the foamy billows of a mighty
+ocean. At the north, silhouetted against the vivid blue
+of a cloudless sky, towered the great Snow Mountain,
+its jagged peaks crowned with gold where the morning
+sun had kissed their summits. We rode toward it across
+a level rock-strewn plain and watched the fleecy clouds
+form, and float upward to weave in and out or lose themselves
+in the vast snow craters beside the glacier. It
+was an inspiration, that beautiful mountain, lying so
+white and still in its cradle of dark green trees. Each
+hour it seemed more wonderful, more dominating in its
+grandeur, and we were glad to be of the chosen few to
+look upon its sacred beauty.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" id="img_f112a" style="width: 282px;">
+ <img src="images/img_f112a.png" width="282" height="354" alt="" />
+ <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">A Moso Herder</span></div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" id="img_f112b" style="width: 246px;">
+ <img src="images/img_f112b.png" width="246" height="355" alt="" />
+ <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">A Moso Woman</span></div>
+</div>
+
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_113">- 113 -</span></p>
+
+<p>In the early afternoon we camped in a tiny temple
+which nestled into a grove of spruce trees on the
+outskirts of a straggling village. To the north the Snow
+Mountain rose almost above us, and on the east and
+south a grassy rock-strewn plain rolled away in gentle
+undulations to a range of hills which jutted into the valley
+like a great recumbent dragon.</p>
+
+<p>A short time after our camp was established we had
+a visit from an Austrian botanist, Baron Haendel-Mazzetti,
+who had been in the village for two weeks. He had
+come to Yün-nan for the Vienna Museum before the
+war, expecting to remain a year, but already had been
+there three. Surrounded as he was by Tibet, Burma,
+and Tonking, his only possible exit was by way of the
+four-month overland journey to Shanghai. He had little
+money and for two years had been living on Chinese
+food. He dined with us in the evening, and his enjoyment
+of our coffee, bread, kippered herring, and other
+canned goods was almost pathetic.</p>
+
+<p>A week after our arrival Baron Haendel-Mazzetti
+left for Yün-nan Fu and eventually reached Shanghai
+which, however, became a closed port to him upon
+China's entry into the European war. It is to be hoped
+that his collections, which must be of great scientific
+value and importance, have arrived at a place of safety
+long ere this book issues from the press.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_114">- 114 -</span></p>
+
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XIII">CHAPTER XIII</h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class="caption3">CAMPING IN THE CLOUDS</p>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">We</span> hired four Moso hunters in the Snow Mountain
+village. They were picturesque fellows, supposedly
+dressed in skins, but their garments were so ragged and
+patched that it was difficult to determine the original
+material of which they were made.</p>
+
+<p>One of them was armed with a most extraordinary
+gun which, it was said, came from Tibet. Its barrel was
+more than six feet long, and the stock was curved like
+a golf stick. A powder fuse projected from a hole in
+the side of the barrel, and just behind it on the butt was
+fastened a forked spring. At his waist the man carried
+a long coil of rope, the slowly burning end of which
+was placed in the crotched spring. When about to shoot
+the native placed the butt of the weapon against his
+cheek, pressed the spring so that the burning rope's end
+touched the powder fuse, and off went the gun.</p>
+
+<p>The three other hunters carried crossbows and poisoned
+arrows. They were remarkably good shots and
+at a distance of one hundred feet could place an arrow
+in a six-inch circle four times out of five. We found
+later that crossbows are in common use throughout the
+more remote parts of Yün-nan and were only another
+evidence that we had suddenly dropped back into the
+Middle Ages and, with our high-power rifles and twentieth
+century equipment, were anachronisms.</p>
+
+<p>The natives are able to obtain a good deal of game
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_115">- 115 -</span>
+even with such primitive weapons for they depend largely
+upon dogs which bring gorals and serows to bay
+against a cliff and hold them until the men arrive. The
+dogs are a mongrel breed which appears to be largely
+hound, and some are really excellent hunters. White is
+the usual color but a few are mixed black and brown, or
+fox red. Hotenfa, one of our Mosos, owned a good pack
+and we all came to love its big red leader. This fine dog
+could be depended upon to dig out game if there was
+any in the mountains, but his life with us was short for
+he was killed by our first serow. Hotenfa was inconsolable
+and the tears he shed were in sincere sorrow for
+the loss of a faithful friend.</p>
+
+<p>Almost every family owns a dog. Some of those we
+saw while passing through Chinese villages were nauseating
+in their unsightliness, for at least thirty per cent
+of them were more or less diseased. Barely able to
+walk, they would stagger across the street or lie in the
+gutter in indescribable filth. One longed to put them
+out of their misery with a bullet but, although they
+seemed to belong to nobody, if one was killed an owner
+appeared like magic to quarrel over the damages.</p>
+
+<p>The dogs of the non-Chinese tribes were in fairly
+good condition and there seemed to be comparatively
+little disease among them. Our hunters treated their
+hounds kindly and fed them well, but the animals themselves,
+although loyal to their masters, manifested but
+little affection. In Korea dogs are eaten by the natives,
+but none of the tribes with which we came in contact in
+Yün-nan used them for food.</p>
+
+<p>On our first day in the temple Heller went up the
+Snow Mountain for a reconnaissance and the party secured
+a fine porcupine. It is quite a different animal
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_116">- 116 -</span>
+from the American tree porcupines and represents a
+genus (<i>Hystrix</i>) which is found in Asia, Africa, and
+southern Europe. This species lives in burrows and,
+when hunting big game, we were often greatly annoyed
+to find that our dogs had followed the trail of one of
+these animals. We would arrive to see the hounds dancing
+about the burrow yelping excitedly instead of having
+a goral at bay as we had expected.</p>
+
+<p>Some of the beautiful black and ivory white quills
+are more than twelve inches long and very sharp. A porcupine
+will keep an entire pack of dogs at bay and is almost
+sure to drive its murderous weapons into the bodies
+of some of them unless the hunters arrive in a short
+time. The Mosos eat the flesh which is white and fine.</p>
+
+<p>Although we were only twelve miles from Li-chiang
+the traps yielded four shrews and one mouse which were
+new to our collection. The natives brought in three
+bats which we had not previously seen and began a
+thriving business in toads and frogs with now and then
+a snake.</p>
+
+<p>The temple was an excellent place for small mammals
+but it was evident that we would have to move high up
+on the slopes of the mountain if gorals and other big
+game were to be obtained. Accordingly, while Heller
+prepared a number of bat skins we started out on horse-back
+to hunt a camp site.</p>
+
+<p>It was a glorious day with the sun shining brilliantly
+from a cloudless sky and just a touch of autumn snap
+in the air. We crossed the sloping rock-strewn plain
+to the base of the mountain, and discovered a trail which
+led up a forested shoulder to the right of the main
+peaks. An hour of steady climbing brought us to
+the summit of the ridge where we struck into the woods
+toward a snow-field on the opposite slope. The trail
+led us along the brink of a steep escarpment from which
+we could look over the valley and away into the blue
+distance toward Li-chiang. Three thousand feet below
+us the roof of our temple gleamed from among the sheltering
+pine trees, and the herds of sheep and cattle
+massed themselves into moving patches on the smooth
+brown plain.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" id="img_f116a" style="width: 471px;">
+ <img src="images/img_f116a.png" width="471" height="368" alt="" />
+ <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">The Snow Mountain</span></div>
+</div>
+
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_117">- 117 -</span></p>
+
+<p>We pushed our way through the spruce forest with
+the glistening snow bed as a beacon and suddenly
+emerged into a flat open meadow overshadowed by the
+ragged peaks. "What a perfectly wonderful place to
+camp," we both exclaimed. "If we can only find water,
+let's come tomorrow."</p>
+
+<p>The hunters had assured us that there were no streams
+on this end of the mountain but we hoped to find a snow
+bank which would supply our camp for a few days at
+least. We rode slowly up the meadow reveling in the
+grandeur of the snow-crowned pinnacles and feeling
+very small and helpless amid surroundings where nature
+had so magnificently expressed herself.</p>
+
+<p>At the far end of the meadow we discovered a dry
+creek bed which led upward through the dense spruce
+forest. "Where water has been, water may be again,"
+we argued and, leading the horses, picked our way
+among the trees and over fallen logs to a fairly open
+hill slope where we attempted to ride, but our animals
+were nearly done. After climbing a few feet they stood
+with heaving sides and trembling legs the breath rasping
+through distended nostrils. We felt the altitude
+almost as badly as the horses for the meadow itself was
+twelve thousand feet above the level of the sea and the
+air was very thin.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_118">- 118 -</span></p>
+
+<p>There seemed to be no hope of finding even a suitable
+snow bank when it was slowly borne in upon us
+that the subdued roaring in our ears was the sound of
+water and not the effect of altitude as we both imagined.
+Above and to the left was a sheer cliff, hundreds of
+feet in height, and as we toiled upward and emerged
+beyond timber line we caught a glimpse of a silver ribbon
+streaming down its face. It came from a melting
+snow crater and we could follow its course with our
+eyes to where it swung downward along a rock wall not
+far from the upper end of the meadow. It was so hidden
+by the trees that had we not climbed above timber
+line, it never would have been discovered.</p>
+
+<p>This solved the question of our camp and we looked
+about us happily. On the way through the forest we
+had noticed small mammal runways under almost every
+log and, when we stood above the tree limit, the grassy
+slope was cut by an intricate network of tiny tunnels.
+These were plainly the work of a meadow vole (<i>Microtus</i>)
+and at this altitude it certainly would prove to be a
+species new to our collection.</p>
+
+<p>The sun had already dropped behind the mountain
+and the meadow was in shadow when we reached it again
+on our homeward way. By five o'clock we were in the
+temple eating a belated tiffin and making preparations
+for an early start. But our hopes were idle, for in the
+morning three of the mules had strayed, and we did not
+arrive at the meadow until two o'clock in the afternoon.</p>
+
+<p>Our camp was made just at the edge of the spruce
+forest a few hundred yards from the snow stream. As
+soon as the tents were up we climbed to the grassy slope
+above timber line, with Heller, to set a string of traps
+in the vole runways and under logs and stumps in the
+forest.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" id="img_f118a" style="width: 367px;">
+ <img src="images/img_f118a.png" width="367" height="285" alt="" />
+ <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">A Cheek Gun Used by One of Our Hunters</span></div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" id="img_f118b" style="width: 367px;">
+ <img src="images/img_f118b.png" width="367" height="261" alt="" />
+ <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">The First Goral Killed on the Snow Mountain</span></div>
+</div>
+
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_119">- 119 -</span></p>
+
+<p>The hunters made their camp beside a huge rock a
+short distance away and slept in their ragged clothes
+without a blanket or shelter of any kind. It was delightfully
+warm, even at this altitude, when the sun was
+out, but as soon as it disappeared we needed a fire and
+the nights were freezing cold; yet the natives did not
+seem to mind it in the slightest and refused our offer
+of a canvas tent fly.</p>
+
+<p>We never will forget that first night on the Snow
+Mountain. As we sat at dinner about the camp-fire
+we could see the somber mass of the forest losing itself
+in the darkness, and felt the unseen presence of
+the mighty peaks standing guard about our mountain
+home. We slept, breathing the strong, sweet perfume
+of the spruce trees and dreamed that we two were wandering
+alone through the forest opening the treasure
+boxes of the Wild.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_120">- 120 -</span></p>
+
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XIV">CHAPTER XIV</h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class="caption3">THE FIRST GORAL</p>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">We</span> were awakened before daylight by Wu's long
+drawn call to the hunters, "<i>L-a-o-u H-o, L-a-o-u H-o,
+L-a-o-u H-o.</i>" The steady drum of rain on our tent shot
+a thrill of disappointment through me as I opened my
+eyes, but before we had crawled out of our sleeping-bags
+and dressed it lessened to a gentle patter and soon
+ceased altogether. It left a cold, gray morning with
+dense clouds weaving in and out among the peaks but,
+nevertheless, I decided to go out with the hunters to
+try for goral.</p>
+
+<p>Two of the men took the dogs around the base of a
+high rock shoulder sparsely covered with scrub spruce
+while I went up the opposite slope accompanied by
+the other two. We had not been away from camp half
+an hour when the dogs began to yelp and almost immediately
+we heard them coming around the summit of
+the ridge in our direction. The hunters made frantic
+signs for me to hurry up the steep slope but in the
+thin air with my heart pounding like a trip hammer I
+could not go faster than a walk.</p>
+
+<p>We climbed about three hundred yards when suddenly
+the dogs appeared on the side of the cliff near
+the summit. Just in front of them was a bounding
+gray form. The mist closed in and we lost both dogs
+and animals but ten minutes later a blessed gust of wind
+drifted the fog away and the goral was indistinctly
+visible with its back to a rock ledge facing the dogs. The
+big red leader of the pack now and then dashed in for
+a nip at the animal's throat but was kept at bay by its
+vicious lunges and sharp horns.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" id="img_f120a" style="width: 282px;">
+ <img src="images/img_f120a.png" width="282" height="366" alt="" />
+ <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">Hotenfa, One of Our Moso Hunters,
+Bringing in a Goral</span></div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" id="img_f120b" style="width: 286px;">
+ <img src="images/img_f120b.png" width="286" height="371" alt="" />
+ <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">Another Moso Hunter with a Porcupine</span></div>
+</div>
+
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_121">- 121 -</span></p>
+
+<p>It was nearly three hundred yards away but the cloud
+was drifting in again and I dropped down for a shot.
+The hunters were running up the slope, frantically
+waving for me to come on, thinking it madness to shoot
+at that distance. I could just see the gray form through
+the sights and the first two shots spattered the loose
+rock about a foot low. For the third I got a dead rest
+over a stone and as the crash of the little Mannlicher
+echoed up the gorge, the goral threw itself into the air
+whirling over and over onto the rocks below.</p>
+
+<p>The hunters, mad with excitement, dashed up the hill
+and down into the stream bed, and when I arrived the
+goral lay on a grassy ledge beside the water. The
+animal was stone dead, for my bullet had passed through
+its lungs, and, although the front teeth had been smashed
+on the rocks, its horns were uninjured and the beautiful
+gray coat was in perfect condition. It so happened
+that this ram was the largest which we killed on the
+entire trip.</p>
+
+<p>When the hunters were carrying the goral to camp
+we met Yvette and Heller on their way to visit the
+traps just below snow line, and she returned with me
+to photograph the animal and to watch the ceremonies
+which I knew would be performed. One of the natives
+cut a leafy branch, placed the goral upon it and at the
+first cut chanted a prayer. Then laying several leaves
+one upon the other he sliced off the tip of the heart,
+wrapped it carefully in the leaves and placed it in a
+nearby tree as an offering to the God of the Hunt.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_122">- 122 -</span></p>
+
+<p>I have often seen the Chinese and Korean hunters
+perform similar ceremonies at the death of an animal,
+and the idea that it is necessary to propitiate the God
+of the Hunt is universal. When I was shooting in
+Korea in 1912, and also in other parts of China, if
+luck had been against us for a few days the hunters
+would invariably ask me to buy a chicken, or some
+animal to sacrifice for "good joss."</p>
+
+<p>After each dog had had a taste of the goral's blood
+we again climbed the cliff at the end of the meadow.
+When we were nearly 2,000 feet above camp the clouds
+shut in and, as the impenetrable gray curtain wrapped
+itself about us, we could only sit quietly and wait for
+it to drift away.</p>
+
+<p>After an hour the fog began to thin and the men
+sent the hounds toward a talus slope at the base of the
+highest peak. Almost immediately the big red dog
+picked up a trail and started across the loose rock with
+the pack yelping at his heels. We followed as rapidly
+as possible over such hard going but before we reached
+the other side the dogs had rounded a sharp pinnacle
+and disappeared far below us. Expecting that the goral
+would swing about the base of the peak the hunters sent
+me back across the talus to watch for a shot, but the
+animal ran down the valley and into a heavily wooded
+ravine where the dogs lost his trail only a short distance
+above camp.</p>
+
+<p>I returned to find that Heller had secured a rich
+haul from the traps. As we supposed, the runways which
+Yvette and I had discovered above timber line were
+made by a meadow vole (<i>Microtus</i>) and in the forest
+almost every trap had caught a white-footed mouse
+(<i>Apodemus</i>). He also had several new shrews and we
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_123">- 123 -</span>
+caught eight different species of these important little
+animals at this one camp.</p>
+
+<p>Wu, the interpreter, hearing us speak of shrews, came
+to me one day in great perplexity with his Anglo-Chinese
+dictionary. He had looked up the word "shrew"
+and found that it meant "a cantankerous woman!"</p>
+
+<p>The following day Heller went out with the hunters
+and saw two gorals but did not get a shot. In the
+meantime Yvette and I ran the traps and prepared the
+small mammals. While we were far up on the mountain-side,
+Baron Haendel-Mazzetti appeared armed with
+ropes and an alpine snow ax. He was about to attempt
+to climb the highest peak which had never been ascended
+but the drifts turned him back several hundred feet
+from the summit. He dined at our camp and as all
+of us carefully refrained from "war talk" we spent a
+very pleasant evening. During his three years in Yün-nan
+he had explored and mapped many sections of the
+province which had not been visited previously by foreigners
+and from him we obtained much valuable information.</p>
+
+<p>On the third morning we were up before daylight and
+I left with the hunters in the gray dawn. We climbed
+steadily for an hour after leaving camp and, when well
+up on the mountain-side, skirted the base of a huge peak
+through a dense forest of spruce and low bamboo thickets,
+emerging upon a steep grassy meadow; this abutted
+on a sheer rock wall at the upper end, and below ran
+into a thick evergreen forest.</p>
+
+<p>As we entered the meadow the big red leading dog,
+trotted off by himself toward the rock wall above us,
+and in a few moments we heard his sharp yelps near
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_124">- 124 -</span>
+the summit. Instantly the pack was off stringing out
+in a long line up the hillside.</p>
+
+<p>We had nearly crossed the open slope and were
+standing on the edge of a deep gully when the dogs
+gave tongue and as soon as the hunters were sure they
+were coming in our direction we hurried to the bottom
+of the gorge and began the sharp ascent on the other
+side. It was almost straight up and before we had gone
+a hundred feet we were all gasping for breath and my
+legs seemed like bars of lead, but the staccato yelps of
+the dogs sounding closer and closer kept us going.</p>
+
+<p>When we finally dropped on the summit of the hill
+I was absolutely done. I lay flat on my back for a few
+minutes and got to my knees just as the goral appeared
+on the opposite cliff. The sight of the magnificent animal
+bounding like rubber from ledges which his feet
+seemed hardly to touch down the face of a sheer wall,
+will remain in my memory as long as I live. He seemed
+the very spirit of the mountains, a thing born of peaks
+and crags, vibrant with the breath of the clouds. Selecting
+a spot which he must touch in the next flying
+leap, I waited until his body darkened the sights and
+then pulled the trigger.</p>
+
+<p>The game little brute collapsed, then struggled to
+his feet, and with a tremendous leap landed on a projecting
+shelf of rock four yards below. Instantly I
+fired again and he sank down in a crumpled gray mass
+not two feet from the edge of the precipice which fell
+away in a dizzy drop of six hundred feet.</p>
+
+<p>The dogs were on him long before we had worked
+our way down the cañon and up to the shelf where
+he lay. He was a fine ram nearly as large as the first
+one I had killed. I wanted to rest the dogs for they
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_125">- 125 -</span>
+were very tired from their two days of hunting, so I
+decided to return to camp with the men. On the way a
+second goral was started but it swung about the summit
+of the wooded ridge instead of coming in my direction,
+giving one of the hunters a shot with his crossbow,
+which he missed.</p>
+
+<p>It was a beautiful day. Above us the sky was clear
+and blue but the clouds still lay thickly over the meadow
+and the camp was invisible. The billowy masses clung
+to the forest line, but from the slopes above them we
+could look far across the valley into the blue distance
+where the snow-covered summits of range after range
+of magnificent mountains lay shining in the sun like
+beaten silver. There was a strange fascination about
+those mountains, and I thrilled with the thought that
+for twelve long months I was free to roam where I willed
+and explore their hidden mysteries.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_126">- 126 -</span></p>
+
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XV">CHAPTER XV</h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class="caption3">MORE GORALS</p>
+
+
+<p>Both gorals were fine old rams with perfect horns.
+Their hair was thick and soft, pale olive-buff tipped
+with brownish, and the legs on the "cannon bones" were
+buff-yellow like the margins of the throat patches. Their
+color made them practically invisible against the rocks
+and when I killed the second goral my only distinct impression
+as he dashed down the face of the precipice, was
+of four yellowish legs entirely separated from a body
+which I could hardly see.</p>
+
+<p>This invisibility, combined with the fact that the
+Snow Mountain gorals lived on almost inaccessible cliffs
+thickly covered with scrub spruce forest, made "still
+hunting" impossible. In fact. Baron Haendel-Mazzetti,
+who had explored this part of the Snow Mountains fairly
+thoroughly in his search for plants, had never seen
+a goral, and did not know that such an animal existed
+there.</p>
+
+<p>Heller hunted for two days in succession and, although
+he saw several gorals, he was not successful in
+getting one until we had been in camp almost a week.
+His was a young male not more than a year old with
+horns about an inch long. It was a valuable addition
+to our collection for I was anxious to obtain specimens
+of various ages to be mounted as a "habitat group" in
+the Museum and we lacked only a female.</p>
+
+<p>The preparation of the group required the greatest
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_127">- 127 -</span>
+care and study. First, we selected a proper spot to
+reproduce in the Museum, and Yvette took a series of
+natural color photographs to guide the artist in painting
+the background. Next she made detail photographs
+of the surroundings. Then we collected portions of the
+rocks and typical bits of vegetation such as moss and
+leaves, to be either dried or preserved in formalin. In
+a large group, perhaps several thousand leaves will be
+required, but the field naturalist need select typical specimens
+of only five or six different sizes from each of
+which a plaster mold can be made at the Museum and
+the leaves reproduced in wax.</p>
+
+<p>After two days of rain during which I had a hard
+and unsuccessful hunt for serows we decided to return
+to the temple at the foot of the mountain which was
+nearer to the forests inhabited by these animals. We
+had already been in our camp on the meadow for nine
+days and, besides the gorals, had gathered a large and
+valuable collection of small mammals. The shrews were
+especially varied in species and, besides a splendid series
+of meadow voles, Asiatic mice and rats, we obtained
+a new weasel and a single specimen of a tiny rock-cony
+or little chief hare, an Asiatic genus (<i>Ochotona</i>) which
+is also found in the western part of North America on
+the high slopes of the Rocky Mountains. Although we
+set dozens of traps among the rocks we did not get another
+on the entire expedition nor did we see indications
+of their presence in other localities.</p>
+
+<p>The almost complete absence of carnivores at this
+camp was a great surprise. Except for weasels we saw
+no others and the hunters said that foxes or civets did
+not occur on this side of the mountain even though food
+was abundant.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_128">- 128 -</span></p>
+
+<p>On the day before we went to the temple I had a
+magnificent hunt. We left camp at daylight in a heavy
+fog and almost at once the dogs took up a serow trail.
+We heard them coming toward us as we stood at the
+upper edge of a little meadow and expected the animal
+to break cover any moment, but it turned down the
+mountain and the hounds lost the trail in the thick spruce
+woods.</p>
+
+<p>We climbed slowly toward the cliffs until we were
+well above the clouds, which lay in a thick white blanket
+over the camp, and headed for the cañon where I had
+shot my second goral. Hotenfa wished to go lower
+down into the forests but I prevailed upon him to stay
+along the open slopes and, while we were resting, the
+big red dog suddenly gave tongue on a ridge above and
+to the right of us. It was in the exact spot where my
+second goral had been started and we were on the <i>qui
+vive</i> when the rest of the pack dashed up the mountain-side
+to join their leader.</p>
+
+<p>In a few moments they all gave tongue and we heard
+them swinging about in our direction. Just then the
+clouds, which had been lying in a solid bank below us,
+began to drift upward in a long, thin finger toward the
+cañon. On and on it came, and closer sounded the yelps
+of the dogs. I was trembling with impatience and
+swearing softly as the gray vapor streamed into the
+gorge. The cloud thickened, sweeping rapidly up the
+ravine, until we were enveloped so completely that I
+could hardly see the length of my gun barrel. A moment
+later we heard the goral leaping down the cliff
+not a hundred yards away.</p>
+
+<p>With the rifle useless in my hands I listened to each
+hoof beat and the stones which his flying feet sent
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_129">- 129 -</span>
+rattling into the gorge. Then the dogs came past, and
+we heard them follow down the rocks, their yelps growing
+fainter and fainter in the valley far below. The
+goral was lost, and as though the Fates were laughing
+at us, ten minutes later a puff of wind sucked the cloud
+out of the cañon as swiftly as it had come, and above
+us shone a sky as clear and blue as a tropic sea.</p>
+
+<p>Hotenfa's disgust more than equaled my own for I
+had loaned him my three-barrel gun (12 gauge and .808
+Savage) and he was as excited as a child with a new
+toy. He was a remarkably intelligent man and mastered
+the safety catches in a short time even though
+he had never before seen a breach-loading gun.</p>
+
+<p>There was nothing to do but hurry down the mountain
+for the dogs might bring the goral to bay on one
+of the cliffs below us, and in twenty minutes we stood
+on a ridge which jutted out from the thick spruce forest.
+One of the hunters picked his way down the rock
+wall while Hotenfa and I circled the top of the spur.</p>
+
+<p>We had not gone a hundred yards when the hunter
+shouted that a goral was running in our direction. Hotenfa
+reached the edge of the ridge before me, and I
+saw him fire with the three-barrel gun at a goral which
+disappeared into the brush. His bullet struck the dirt
+only a few feet behind the animal although it must have
+been well beyond a hundred yards and almost straight
+below us.</p>
+
+<p>Hardly had we drawn back when a yell from the other
+hunter brought us again to the edge of the cliff just in
+time to see a second goral dash into the forest a good
+three hundred yards away in the very bottom of the
+gorge.</p>
+
+<p>Rather disappointed we continued along the ridge and
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_130">- 130 -</span>
+Hotenfa made signs which said as plainly as words, "I
+told you so. The gorals are not on the peaks but down
+in the forest. We ought to have come here first."</p>
+
+<p>There were not many moments for regret, however,
+for this was "our busy day." Suddenly a burst of frantic
+yelps from the red dog turned us off to the left and
+we heard him nearing the summit of the spur which
+we had just left. One of the other hunters was standing
+there and his crossbow twanged as the goral passed
+only a few yards from him, but the wicked little poisoned
+dart stuck quivering into a tree a few inches
+above the animal's back.</p>
+
+<p>The goral dashed over the ridge almost on top of the
+second hunter who was too surprised to shoot and only
+yelled that it was coming toward us on the cliff below.
+Hotenfa leaped from rock to rock, almost like a goat
+himself, and dashed through the bushes toward a jutting
+shelf which overhung the gorge.</p>
+
+<p>We reached the rim at the same moment and saw
+a huge ram standing on a narrow ledge a hundred
+yards below. I fired instantly and the noble animal,
+with feet wide spread, and head thrown back, launched
+himself into space falling six hundred feet to the rocks
+beneath us.</p>
+
+<p>As the goral leaped Hotenfa seemed suddenly to
+go insane. Yelling with joy, he threw his arms about
+my neck, rubbing my face with his and pounding me
+on the back until I thought he would throw us both off
+the cliff. I was utterly dumbfounded but seized his three-barrel
+gun to unload it for in his excitement there was
+imminent danger that he would shoot either himself or
+me.</p>
+
+<p>Then I realized what it was all about. We had both
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_131">- 131 -</span>
+fired simultaneously and neither had heard the other's
+shot. By mistake Hotenfa had discharged a load of
+buckshot and it was my bullet which had killed the
+goral but his joy was so great that I would not for anything
+have disillusioned him.</p>
+
+<p>It was a half hour's hard work to get to the place
+where the goral had fallen. The dogs were already there
+lying quietly beside the animal when we arrived. My bullet
+had entered the back just in front of the hind leg and
+ranged forward through the lungs flattening itself
+against the breast bone; the jacket had split, one piece
+tearing into the heart, so that the ram was probably
+dead before it struck the rocks.</p>
+
+<p>I photographed the goral where it lay and after it
+had been eviscerated, and the hunters had performed
+their ceremonies to the God of the Hunt, I sent one
+of them back with it while Hotenfa and I worked toward
+the bottom of the cañon in the hope of finding the other
+animals.</p>
+
+<p>It was a delightfully warm day and Hotenfa told me
+in his vivid sign language that the gorals were likely to
+be asleep on the sunny side of the ravine; therefore we
+worked up the opposite slope.</p>
+
+<p>It was the hardest kind of climbing and for two hours
+we plodded steadily upward, clinging by feet and hands
+to bushes and rocks, and were almost exhausted when
+we reached a small open patch of grass about two thirds
+of the way to the summit.</p>
+
+<p>We rested for half an hour and, after a light tiffin,
+toiled on again. I had not gone thirty feet, and Hotenfa
+was still sitting down, when I saw him wave his arm
+excitedly and throw up his gun to shoot. I leaped down
+to his side just as he fired at a big female goral which
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_132">- 132 -</span>
+was sound asleep in an open patch of grass on the
+mountain-side.</p>
+
+<p>Hotenfa's bullet broke the animal's foreleg at the
+knee but without the slightest sign of injury she dashed
+down the cliff. I fired as she ran, striking her squarely
+in the heart, and she pitched headlong into the bushes
+a hundred feet below.</p>
+
+<p>How Hotenfa managed to pack that animal to the
+summit of the ridge I never can understand, for with a
+light sack upon my back and a rifle it was all I could
+do to pull myself up the rocks. He was completely
+done when we finally threw ourselves on the grass at
+the edge of the meadow which we had left in the morning.
+Hotenfa chanted his prayer when we opened the
+goral, but the God of the Hunt missed his offering for
+my bullet had smashed the heart to a pulp.</p>
+
+<p>On our way back to camp the red dog, although dead
+tired, disappeared alone into the heavy forest below us.
+Suddenly we heard his deep bay coming up the hill in
+our direction. Hotenfa and I dropped our burdens
+and ran to an opening in the forest where we thought
+the animal must pass.</p>
+
+<p>Instead of coming out where we expected, the dog appeared
+higher up at the heels of a crested muntjac
+(<i>Elaphodus</i>), which was bounding along at full speed,
+its white flag standing straight up over its dark bluish
+back. I had one chance for a shot at about one hundred
+and fifty yards as the pair crossed a little opening in
+the trees, but it was too dangerous to shoot for, had I
+missed the deer, the dog certainly would have been
+killed.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" id="img_f132a" style="width: 373px;">
+ <img src="images/img_f132a.png" width="373" height="647" alt="" />
+ <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">A Typical Goral Cliff on the Snow Mountain</span></div>
+</div>
+
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_133">- 133 -</span></p>
+
+<p>I was heart-broken over losing this animal, for it is
+an exceedingly rare species, but a few days later a
+shepherd brought in another which had been wounded
+by one of our Lolo hunters and had run down into the
+plains to die.</p>
+
+<p>When we reached the hill above camp Yvette ran out
+to meet us, falling over logs and bushes in her eagerness
+to see what we were carrying. No dinner which I have
+ever eaten tasted like the one we had of goral steak
+that night and after a smoke I crawled into my sleeping
+bag, dead tired in body but with a happy heart.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_134">- 134 -</span></p>
+
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XVI">CHAPTER XVI</h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class="caption3">THE SNOW MOUNTAIN TEMPLE</p>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">On</span> October 22, we moved to the foot of the mountain
+and camped in the temple which we had formerly occupied.
+This was directly below the forests inhabited
+by serow, and we expected to devote our efforts exclusively
+toward obtaining a representative series of these
+animals.</p>
+
+<p>Unfortunately I developed a severe infection in the
+palm of my right hand almost immediately, and had it
+not been for the devoted care of my wife I should not
+have left China alive. Through terrible nights of delirium
+when the poison was threatening to spread over
+my entire body, she nursed me with an utter disregard
+of her own health and slept only during a few restless
+hours of complete exhaustion. For three weeks I could
+do no work but at last was able to bend my "trigger
+finger" and resume hunting although I did not entirely
+recover the use of my hand for several months.</p>
+
+<p>However, the work of the expedition by no means
+ceased because of my illness. Mr. Heller continued to
+collect small mammals with great energy and the day
+after we arrived at the temple we engaged eight new
+native hunters. These were Lolos, a wandering unit
+from the independent tribe of S'suchuan and they
+proved to be excellent men.</p>
+
+<p>The first serow was killed by Hotenfa's party on our
+third day in the temple. Heller went out with the hunters
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_135">- 135 -</span>
+but in a few hours returned alone. A short time
+after he had left the natives the dogs took up the trail
+of a huge serow and followed it for three miles through
+the spruce forest. They finally brought the animal to
+bay against a cliff and a furious fight ensued. One
+dog was ripped wide open, another received a horn-thrust
+in the side, and the big red leader was thrown
+over a cliff to the rocks below. More of the hounds
+undoubtedly would have been killed had not the hunters
+arrived and shot the animal.</p>
+
+<p>The men brought the serow in late at night but our
+joy was considerably dampened by the loss of the red
+dog. Hotenfa carried him in his arms and laid him
+gently on a blanket in the temple but the splendid animal
+died during the night. His master cried like a
+child and I am sure that he felt more real sorrow than
+he would have shown at the loss of his wife; for wives
+are much easier to get in China than good hunting
+dogs.</p>
+
+<p>The serow was an adult male, badly scarred from
+fighting, and had lost one horn by falling over a cliff
+when he was killed. He was brownish black, with rusty
+red lower legs and a whitish mane. His right horn was
+nine and three-quarters inches in length and five and
+three-quarters inches in circumference at the base and
+the effectiveness with which he had used his horns against
+the dogs demonstrated that they were by no means
+only for ornaments. In the next chapter the habits
+and relationships of the gorals and serows will be considered
+more fully.</p>
+
+<p>On the morning following the capture of the first
+serow the last rain of the season began and continued for
+nine days almost without ceasing. The weather made
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_136">- 136 -</span>
+hunting practically impossible for the fog hung so
+thickly over the woods that one could not see a hundred
+feet and Heller found that many of his small traps were
+sprung by the raindrops. The Lolos had disappeared,
+and we believed that they had returned to their village,
+but they had been hunting in spite of the weather and
+on the fifth day arrived with a fine male serow in perfect
+condition. It showed a most interesting color variation
+for, instead of red, the lower legs were buff with
+hardly a tinge of reddish.</p>
+
+<p>November 2, the sun rose in an absolutely cloudless
+sky and during the remainder of the winter we had as
+perfect weather as one could wish. Yvette's constant
+mussing and efficient surgery combined with the devotion
+of our interpreter, Wu, had checked the spread
+of the poison in my hand and my nights were no longer
+haunted with the strange fancies of delirium, but I
+was as helpless as a babe. I could do nothing but sit
+with steaming cloths wrapped about my arm and rail
+at the fate which kept me useless in the temple.</p>
+
+<p>The Lolos killed a third serow on the mountain just
+above our camp but the animal fell into a rock fissure
+more than a hundred feet deep and was recovered only
+after a day's hard work. The men wove a swinging
+ladder from tough vines, climbed down it, and drew the
+serow bodily up the cliff; as it weighed nearly three
+hundred pounds this was by no means an easy undertaking.</p>
+
+<p>Our Lolo hunters were tall, handsome fellows led
+by a slender young chief with patrician features who
+ruled his village like an autocrat with absolute power
+of life and death. The Lolos are a strange people who
+at one time probably occupied much of the region south
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_137">- 137 -</span>
+of the Yangtze River but were pushed south and west
+by the Chinese and, except in one instance, now exist
+only in scattered units in the provinces of Kwei-chau
+and Yün-nan.</p>
+
+<p>In S'suchuan the Lolos hold a vast territory which
+is absolutely closed to the Chinese on pain of death
+and over which they exercise no control. Several expeditions
+have been launched against the Lolos but all
+have ended in disaster.</p>
+
+<p>Only a few weeks before we arrived in Yün-nan a
+number of Chinese soldiers butchered nearly a hundred
+Lolos whom they had encountered outside the independent
+territory, and in reprisal the Lolos burned
+several villages almost under the walls of a fortified city
+in which were five hundred soldiers, massacred all the
+men and boys, and carried off the women as slaves.</p>
+
+<p>The pure blood Lolos "are a very fine tall race, with
+comparatively fair complexions, and often with straight
+features, suggesting a mixture of Mongolian with some
+more straight-featured race. Their appearance marks
+them as closely connected by race with the eastern Tibetans,
+the latter being, if anything, rather the bigger men
+of the two."<a id="FNanchor_2" href="#Footnote_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> They are great wanderers and over a very
+large part of Yün-nan form the bulk of the hill population,
+being the most numerous of all the non-Chinese
+tribes in the province.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_2" href="#FNanchor_2" class="label">[2]</a> "Yün-nan, the Link between India and the Yangtze," by Major
+H. R. Davies, 1909, p. 389.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<p>Like almost every race which has been conquered by
+the Chinese or has come into continual contact with them
+for a few generations, the Lolos of Yün-nan, where they
+are in isolated villages, are being absorbed by the Chinese.
+We found, as did Major Davies, that in some
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_138">- 138 -</span>
+instances they were giving up their language and beginning
+to talk Chinese even among themselves. The
+women already had begun to tie up their feet in the
+Chinese fashion and even disliked to be called Lolos.</p>
+
+<p>Those whom we employed were living entirely by
+hunting and, although we found them amiable enough,
+they were exceedingly independent. They preferred to
+hunt alone, although they recognized what an increased
+chance for game our high-power rifles gave them, and
+eventually left us while I was away on a short trip,
+even though we still owed them considerable money.</p>
+
+<p>The Lolos are only one of the non-Chinese tribes of
+Yün-nan. Major Davies has considered this question
+in his valuable book to which I have already referred,
+and I cannot do better than quote his remarks here.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p>The numerous non-Chinese tribes that the traveler encounters
+in western China, form perhaps one of the most interesting
+features of travel in that country. It is safe to assert that in
+hardly any other part of the world is there such a large variety
+of languages and dialects, as are to be heard in the country
+which lies between Assam and the eastern border of Yün-nan
+and in the Indo-Chinese countries to the south of this
+region.</p>
+
+<p>The reason of this is not hard to find. It lies in the physical
+characteristics of the country. It is the high mountain ranges
+and the deep swift-flowing rivers that have brought about the
+differences in customs and language, and the innumerable
+tribal distinctions, which are so perplexing to the enquirer into
+Indo-Chinese ethnology.</p>
+
+<p>A tribe has entered Yün-nan from their original Himalayan
+or Tibetan home, and after increasing in numbers have found
+the land they have settled on not equal to their wants. The natural
+result has been the emigration of part of the colony. The
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_139">- 139 -</span>
+emigrants, having surmounted pathless mountains and crossed
+unbridged rivers on extemporized rafts, have found a new
+place to settle in, and have felt no inclination to undertake
+such a journey again to revisit their old home.</p>
+
+<p>Being without a written character in which to preserve their
+traditions, cut off from all civilizing influence of the outside
+world, and occupied merely in growing crops enough to support
+themselves, the recollection of their connection with their
+original ancestors has died out. It is not then surprising that
+they should now consider themselves a totally distinct race from
+the parent stock. Inter-tribal wars, and the practice of slave
+raiding so common among the wilder members of the Indo-Chinese
+family, have helped to still further widen the breach. In
+fact it may be considered remarkable that after being separated
+for hundreds, and perhaps in some case for thousands,
+of years, the languages of two distant tribes of the same family
+should bear to each other the marked general resemblance
+which is still to be found.</p>
+
+<p>The hilly nature of the country and the consequent lack of
+good means of communication have also naturally militated
+against the formation of any large kingdoms with effective control
+over the mountainous districts. Directly we get to a flat
+country with good roads and navigable rivers, we find the
+tribal distinctions disappear, and the whole of the inhabitants
+are welded into a homogeneous people under a settled government,
+speaking one language.</p>
+
+<p>Burmese as heard throughout the Irrawaddy valley is the
+same everywhere. A traveler from Rangoon to Bhamo will
+find one language spoken throughout his journey, but an expedition
+of the same length in the hilly country to the east or
+to the west of the Irrawaddy valley would bring him into contact
+with twenty mutually unintelligible tongues.</p>
+
+<p>The same state of things applies to Siam and Tonking—one
+nation speaking one language in the flat country and a
+Tower of Babel in the hills (<i>loc. cit.</i>, pp. 332-883).</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_140">- 140 -</span></p>
+
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XVII">CHAPTER XVII</h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class="caption3">GORALS AND SEROWS</p>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Gorals</span> and serows belong to the subfamily <i>Rupicaprinæ</i>
+which is an early mountain-living offshoot of the
+<i>Bovidæ</i>; it also includes the chamois, takin, and the
+so-called Rocky Mountain goat of America. The animals
+are commonly referred to as "goat-antelopes" in
+order to express the intermediate position which they
+apparently hold between the goats and antelopes. They
+are also sometimes called the Rupicaprine antelopes
+from the scientific name of the chamois (<i>Rupicapra</i>).</p>
+
+<p>The horns of all members of the group are finely
+ridged, subcylindrical and are present in both sexes,
+being almost as long in the female as in the male. Although
+no one would suspect that the gorals are more
+closely related to the takins than to the serows, which
+they resemble superficially, such seems to be the case,
+but the cranial differences between the two genera are
+to a certain extent bridged over by the skull of the small
+Japanese serow (<i>Capricornulus crispus</i>). This species
+is most interesting because of its intermediate position.
+In size it is larger than a goral but smaller than a serow;
+its long coat and its horns resemble those of a goral but
+it has the face gland and short tail of a serow. It is
+found in Japan, Manchuria and southern Siberia.</p>
+
+<p>The principal external difference between the gorals
+and serows, besides that of size, is in the fact that the
+serows have a short tail and a well developed face gland,
+which opens in front of the eyes by a small orifice, while
+the gorals have a long tail and no such gland.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" id="img_f140a" style="width: 365px;">
+ <img src="images/img_f140a.png" width="365" height="286" alt="" />
+ <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">A Serow Killed on the Snow Mountain</span></div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" id="img_f140b" style="width: 367px;">
+ <img src="images/img_f140b.png" width="367" height="288" alt="" />
+ <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">The Head of a Serow</span></div>
+</div>
+
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_141">- 141 -</span></p>
+
+<p>In the cylindrical form of their horns the serows are
+similar to some of the antelopes but in their clumsy
+build, heavy limbs and stout hoofs as well as in habits
+they resemble goats. The serow has a long, melancholy-looking
+face and because of its enormous ears the Chinese
+in Fukien Province refer to it as the "wild donkey"
+but in Yün-nan it is called "wild cow."</p>
+
+<p>The specific relationships of the serows are by no
+means satisfactorily determined. Mr. Pocock, Superintendent
+of the London Zoölogical Society's Gardens,
+has recently devoted considerable study to the serows
+of British India and considers them all to be races of
+the single species <i>Capricornis sumatrensis</i>. With this
+opinion I am inclined to agree, although I have not yet
+had sufficient time in which to thoroughly study the subject
+in the light of our new material.</p>
+
+<p>These animals differ most strikingly in external coloration,
+and fall into three groups all of which partake
+more or less of the characters of each other. Chinese
+serows usually have the lower legs rusty red, while in
+Indian races they are whitish, and black in the southern
+Burma and Malayan forms.</p>
+
+<p>The serows which we killed upon the Snow Mountain
+can probably be referred to <i>Capricornis
+sumatrensis milne-edwardsi</i>, those of Fukien obtained by Mr.
+Caldwell represent the white-maned serow <i>Capricornis
+sumatrensis argyrochætes</i> and one which I shot in May,
+1917, near Teng-yueh, not far from the Burma frontier,
+is apparently an undescribed form.</p>
+
+<p>Our specimens have brought out the fact that a remarkable
+individual variation exists in the color of the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_142">- 142 -</span>
+legs of these animals; this character was considered to
+be of diagnostic value, and probably is in some degree,
+but it is by no means as reliable as it was formerly supposed
+to be.</p>
+
+<p>Two of the serows killed on the Snow Mountain
+have the lower legs rusty red, while in two others these
+parts are buff colored. The animals, all males of
+nearly the same age, were taken on the same mountain,
+and virtually at the same time. Their skulls exhibit no
+important differences and there is no reason to believe
+that they represent anything but an extreme individual
+variation.</p>
+
+<p>The two specimens obtained by Mr. Caldwell at Yen-ping
+are even more surprising. The old female is coal
+black, but the young male is distinctly brownish-black
+with a chestnut stripe from the mane to the tail along
+the mid-dorsal line where the hairs of the back form a
+ridge. The horns of the female are nearly parallel for
+half their extent and approach each other at the tips;
+their surfaces are remarkably smooth. The horns of the
+young male diverge like a V from the skull and are very
+heavily ridged. The latter character is undoubtedly due
+to youth.</p>
+
+<p>These serows are an excellent example of the necessity
+for collecting a large number of specimens from
+the same locality. Only by this means is it possible to
+learn how the species is affected by age, sex and individual
+variation and what are its really important characters.
+In the case of the gorals, our Expedition obtained
+at Hui-yao such a splendid series of all ages
+that we have an unequaled opportunity for intelligent
+study. Serows are entirely Asian and found in China,
+Japan, India, Sumatra and the Malay Peninsula.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_143">- 143 -</span></p>
+
+<p>On the Snow Mountain we found them living singly
+at altitudes of from 9,000 to 13,000 feet in dense spruce
+forests, among the cliffs. The animals seemed to be
+fond of sleeping under overhanging rocks, and we were
+constantly finding beds which gave evidence of very extensive
+use. Apparently serows seldom come out into
+the open, but feed on leaves and grass while in the
+thickest cover, so that it is almost impossible to kill
+them without the aid of dogs or beaters.</p>
+
+<p>Sometimes a serow will lead the dogs for three or
+four miles, and eventually lose them or it may turn at
+bay and fight the pack after only a short chase; a large
+serow is almost certain to kill several of the hounds if
+in a favorable position with a rock wall at its back.
+The animal can use its strong curved horns with deadly
+effect for it is remarkably agile for a beast of its size.</p>
+
+<p>In Fukien we hunted serows on the summit of a high
+mountain clothed with a dense jungle of dwarf bamboo.
+It was in quite different country from that which the
+animals inhabit in Yün-nan for although the cover was
+exceedingly thick it was without such high cliffs and
+there were extensive grassy meadows. We did not see
+any serows in Fukien because of the ignorance of our
+beaters, although the trails were cut by fresh tracks.
+The natives said that in late September the animals
+could often be found in the forests of the lower mountain
+slopes when they came to browse upon the new
+grown mushrooms.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Caldwell purchased for us in the market the skin
+of a splendid female serow and a short time later obtained
+a young male. The latter was seen swimming
+across the river just below the city wall and was caught
+alive by the natives. The female weighed three
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_144">- 144 -</span>
+hundred and ten pounds and the male two hundred and
+ninety pounds.</p>
+
+<p>Serows are rare in captivity and are said to be rather
+dangerous pets unless tamed when very young. We
+are reproducing a photograph taken and kindly loaned
+by Mr. Herbert Lang, of one formerly living in the
+Berlin Zoölogical Garden; we saw a serow in the Zoölogical
+Park at Calcutta and one from Darjeeling is
+owned by the London Zoölogical Society.</p>
+
+<p>Gorals are pretty little animals of the size of the
+chamois. The species which we killed on the Snow
+Mountain can probably be referred to <i>Næmorhedus griseus</i>,
+but I have not yet had an opportunity to study our
+specimens carefully. Unlike the serows these gorals
+have blackish brown tails which from the roots to the
+end of the hairs measure about 10 inches in length. The
+horns of both sexes are prominently ridged for the basal
+half of their length and perfectly smooth distally. The
+male horns are strongly recurved and are thick and
+round at the base but narrow rapidly to the tips; the
+female horns are straighter and more slender. The
+longest horns in the series which we received measured
+six inches in length and three and three-quarters inches
+in circumference at the base. Like the serows, gorals
+are confined to Asia and are found in northern India,
+Burma, and China, and northwards through Korea and
+southern Manchuria.</p>
+
+<p>We hunted gorals with dogs on the Snow Mountain
+for in this particular region they could be killed in no
+other way. There was so much cover, even at altitudes
+of from 12,000 to 15,000 feet and the rocks were so
+precipitous, that a man might spend a month "still
+hunting" and never see a goral. They are vicious fighters,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_145">- 145 -</span>
+and often back up to a cliff where they can keep
+the dogs at a distance. One of our best hounds while
+hunting alone, brought a goral to bay and was found
+dead next day by the hunters with its side ripped open.</p>
+
+<p>On the Snow Mountain we found the animals singly
+but at Hui-yao, not far from the Burma frontier, where
+we hunted another species in the spring, they were
+almost universally in herds of from six to seven or
+eight. It was at the latter place that we had our best
+opportunity to observe gorals and learn something of
+their habits. We were camping on the banks of a
+branch of the Shweli River, which had cut a narrow
+gorge for itself; on one side this was seven or eight hundred
+feet deep. A herd of about fifty gorals had been
+living for many years on one of the mountain sides not
+far from the village, and although they were seen constantly
+the natives had no weapons with which to kill
+them; but with our high-power rifles it was possible to
+shoot across the river at distances of from two hundred
+to four hundred yards.</p>
+
+<p>We could scan every inch of the hillside through our
+field glasses and watch the gorals as they moved about
+quite unconscious of our presence. At this place they
+were feeding almost exclusively upon the leaves of low
+bushes and the new grass which had sprung up where
+the slopes had been partly burned over. We found them
+browsing from daylight until about nine o'clock, and
+from four in the afternoon until dark. They would
+move slowly among the bushes, picking off the new
+leaves, and usually about the middle of the morning
+would choose a place where the sun beat in warmly upon
+the rocks, and go to sleep.</p>
+
+<p>Strangely enough they did not lie down on their sides,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_146">- 146 -</span>
+as do many hoofed animals, but doubled their forelegs
+under them, stretched their necks and hind legs straight
+out, and rested on their bellies. It was a most uncomfortable
+looking attitude, and the first time I saw an
+animal resting thus I thought it had been wounded, but
+both Mr. Heller and myself saw them repeatedly at
+other times, and realized that this was their natural position
+when asleep.</p>
+
+<p>When frightened, like our own mountain sheep or
+goats, they would run a short distance and stop to look
+back. This was usually their undoing, for they offered
+excellent targets as they stood silhouetted against the
+sky. They were very difficult to see when lying down
+among the rocks, but our native hunters, who had most
+extraordinary eyesight, often would discover them when
+it was almost impossible for me to find them even with
+the field glasses. We never could be sure that there
+were no gorals on a mountain-side, for they were adepts
+at hiding, and made use of a bunch of grass or the smallest
+crevice in a rock to conceal themselves, and did it
+so completely that they seemed to have vanished from
+the earth.</p>
+
+<p>Like all sheep and goats, they could climb about where
+it seemed impossible for any animal to move. I have
+seen a goral run down the face of a cliff which appeared
+to be almost perpendicular, and where the dogs dared
+not venture. As the animal landed on a projecting rock
+it would bounce off as though made of rubber, and leap
+eight or ten feet to a narrow ledge which did not seem
+large enough to support a rabbit.</p>
+
+<p>The ability to travel down such precipitous cliffs is
+largely due to the animal's foot structure. Professor
+Henry Fairfield Osborn has investigated this matter in
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_147">- 147 -</span>
+the mountain goat and as his remarks apply almost
+equally well to the goral, I cannot do better than quote
+them here:</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p>The horny part of the foot surrounds only the extreme
+front. Behind this crescentic horn is a shallow concavity which
+gives the horny hoof a chance to get its hold. Both the main
+digits and the dewclaws terminate in black, rubber-like, rounded
+and expanded soles, which are of great service in securing a
+firm footing on the shelving rocks and narrow ledges on which
+the animal travels with such ease. This sole, Smith states,
+softens in the spring of the year, when the snow is leaving the
+ground, a fresh layer of the integument taking its place. The
+rubber-like balls with which the dewclaws are provided are by
+no means useless; they project back below the horny part of
+the hoof, and Mr. Smith has actually observed the young captive
+goats supporting themselves solely on their dewclaws on
+the edge of a roof. It is probable that they are similarly used
+on the rocks and precipices, since on a very narrow ledge they
+would serve favorably to alter the center of gravity by enabling
+the limb to be extended somewhat farther forward.<a id="FNanchor_3" href="#Footnote_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_3" href="#FNanchor_3" class="label">[3]</a> "Mountain Goat Hunting with the Camera," by Henry Fairfield
+Osborn. Reprinted from the tenth <i>Annual Report of the New
+York Zoölogical Society</i>, 1906, pp. 18-14.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<p>There were certain trails leading over the hill slopes
+at Hui-yao which the gorals must have used continually,
+judging by the way in which these were worn. We also
+found much sign beneath overhanging rocks and on
+projecting ledges to indicate that these were definite
+resorts for numbers of the animals. Many which we
+saw were young or of varying ages running with the
+herds, and it was interesting to see how perfectly they
+had mastered the art of self-concealment even when
+hardly a year old. Although at Hui-yao almost all
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_148">- 148 -</span>
+were on the east side of the river, they did not seem to
+be especially averse to water, and several times I
+watched wounded animals swim across the stream.</p>
+
+<p>Gorals are splendid game animals, for the plucky little
+brutes inspire the sportsman with admiration, besides
+leading him over peaks which try his nerve to the
+utmost, and I number among the happiest hours of my
+life the wonderful hunts in Yün-nan, far above the
+clouds, at the edge of the snow.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_149">- 149 -</span></p>
+
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XVIII">CHAPTER XVIII</h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class="caption3">THE "WHITE WATER"</p>
+
+<p class="caption4"><i>Y. B. A.</i></p>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">October</span> had slipped into November when we left
+the temple and shifted camp to the other side of the
+Snow Mountain at the "White Water." It was a brilliant
+day and the ride up the valley could not have been
+more beautiful. Crossing the <i>gangheisa</i> or "dry sea,"
+a great grassy plain which was evidently a dry lake
+basin, we followed the trail into the forest and down
+the side of a deep cañon to a mountain stream where
+the waters spread themselves in a thin, green veil over
+a bed of white stones.</p>
+
+<p>We pitched our tents on a broad terrace beside the
+stream at the edge of the spruce forest. Above us towered
+the highest peak of the mountain, with a glacier
+nestling in a basin near its summit, and the snow-covered
+slopes extending in a glorious shining crescent about
+our camp. The moon was full, and each night as we
+sat at dinner before the fire, the ragged peaks turned
+crimson in the afterglow of the sun, and changed to
+purest silver at the touch of the white moonlight. We
+have had many camps in many lands but none more
+beautiful than the one at the "White Water."</p>
+
+<p>The weather was perfect. Every day the sun shone
+in a cloudless blue sky and in the morning the ground
+was frozen hard and covered with snowlike frost, but
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_150">- 150 -</span>
+the air was marvelously stimulating. We felt that we
+could be happy at the "White Water" forever, but it
+did not prove to be as good a hunting ground as that
+on the other side of the mountain. The Lolos killed
+a fine serow on the first day and Hotenfa brought in
+a young goral a short time later, but big game was by
+no means abundant. At the "White Water" we obtained
+our first Lady Amherst's pheasant (<i>Thaumalea
+amherstiæ</i>) one of the most remarkable species of a
+family containing the most beautiful birds of the world.
+The rainbow colored body and long tail of the male are
+made more conspicuous by a broad white and green ruff
+about the neck. The first birds brought alive to England
+were two males which had been presented to the
+Countess Amherst after whom the species was named.
+We found this pheasant inhabiting thick forests where
+it is by no means easy to discover or shoot. It is fairly
+abundant in Yün-nan, Eastern Tibet and S'suchuan
+but its habits are not well known. Although the camp
+yielded several small mammals new to our collection,
+we decided to go into Li-chiang to engage a new caravan
+for our trip across the Yangtze River while Heller
+remained in camp.</p>
+
+<p>The direct road to Li-chiang was considerably shorter
+than by way of the Snow Mountain village and at three
+o'clock in the afternoon our beloved "Temple of the
+Flowers" was visible on the hilltop overlooking the city.
+As we rode up the steep ascent we saw a picturesque
+gathering on the porch and heard the sound of many
+voices laughing and talking. The beautiful garden-like
+courtyard was filled with women and children of every
+age and description, and all the doors from one side
+of the temple had been removed, leaving a large open
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_151">- 151 -</span>
+space where huge cauldrons were boiling and steaming.</p>
+
+<p>We sat down irresolutely on the inner porch but the
+young priest was delighted to see us and insisted that
+we wait until Wu arrived. We were glad that we did
+not seek other quarters for we were to witness an
+interesting ceremony, which is most characteristic of
+Chinese life. It seemed that about five years before
+a gentleman of Li-chiang had "shuffled off this mortal
+coil." His soul may have found rest, but "his mortal
+coil" certainly did not. Unfortunately his family inherited
+a few hundred dollars several years later and
+the village "astrologer" informed them that according
+to the <i>feng-shui</i>, or omnipotent spirits of the earth,
+wind, and water, the situation of the deceased gentleman's
+grave was ill-chosen and that if they ever hoped
+to enjoy good fortune again they must dig him up,
+give the customary feast in his honor and have another
+burial site chosen.</p>
+
+<p>Every village has a "wise man" who is always called
+upon to select the resting place of the dead, his remuneration
+varying from two dollars to two thousand
+dollars according to the circumstances of the deceased's
+relatives. The astrologer never will say definitely whether
+or not the spot will prove a propitious one and if the
+family later sell any property, receive a legacy, or are
+known to have obtained money in other ways, the astrologer
+usually finds that the <i>feng-shui</i> do not favor
+the original place and he will exact another fee for
+choosing a second grave.</p>
+
+<p>The dead are never buried until the astrologer has
+named an auspicious day as well as an appropriate site,
+with the result that unburied coffins are to be seen
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_152">- 152 -</span>
+in temples, under roadside shelters, in the fields and in
+the back yards of many houses.</p>
+
+<p>Any interference by foreigners with this custom is
+liable to bring about dire results as in the case of the
+rioting in Shanghai in 1898. A number of French residents
+objected to a temple near by being used to store
+a score or more of bodies until a convenient time for
+burial and the result was the death of many people in
+the fighting which ensued. Mr. Tyler Dennet cites an
+amusing anecdote regarding the successful handling
+of the problem by a native mandarin in Yen-ping where
+we visited Mr. Caldwell:</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p>The doctor pointed out how dangerous to public health was
+the presence of these coffins in Yen-ping. The magistrate
+had a census taken of the coffins above ground in the city and
+found that they actually numbered sixteen thousand. The city
+itself is estimated to have only about twenty thousand inhabitants.</p>
+
+<p>It was a difficult problem for the magistrate. He might easily
+move in such a way as to bring the whole city down about his
+head. But the Chinese are clever in such situations, perhaps
+the cleverest people on earth. He finally devised a way out. A
+proclamation was issued levying a tax of fifty cents on every
+unburied coffin. The Chinese may be superstitious, but they
+are even more thrifty. For a few weeks Yen-ping devoted itself
+to funerals, a thousand a week, and now this little city,
+one of the most isolated in China, can truly be said to be on
+the road to health.<a id="FNanchor_4" href="#Footnote_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_4" href="#FNanchor_4" class="label">[4]</a> "Doctoring China," by Tyler Dennet, <i>Asia</i>, February, 1918,
+p. 114.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" id="img_f152a" style="width: 368px;">
+ <img src="images/img_f152a.png" width="368" height="500" alt="" />
+ <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">The "White Water"</span></div>
+</div>
+
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_153">- 153 -</span></p>
+
+<p>There are very few such progressive cities in China,
+however, and a missionary told us that recently a young
+child and his grandfather were buried on the same day
+although their deaths had been nearly fifty years apart.
+The funeral rites are in themselves fairly simple, but
+it is the great ambition of every Chinese to have his
+resting place as near as possible to those of his ancestors.
+That is one of the reasons why they are so loath to
+emigrate.</p>
+
+<p>We often passed eight or ten coolies staggering under
+the load of a heavy coffin, transporting a body sometimes
+a month's journey or more to bury it at the dead
+man's birthplace. A rooster usually would be fastened
+to the coffin for, according to the Yün-nan superstition,
+the spirit of the man enters the bird and is conveyed
+by it to his home.</p>
+
+<p>There is a strange absence of the fear of death among
+the Chinese. One often sees large planks of wood stored
+in a corner of a house and one is told that these are
+destined to become the coffins of the man's father or
+mother, even though his parents may at the time be enjoying
+the most robust health. Indeed, among the
+poorer classes, a coffin is considered a most fitting gift
+for a son to present to his father.</p>
+
+<p>We established our camp on the porch of the temple
+at Li-chiang and from its vantage point could watch
+the festivities going on about us. The feasting continued
+until after dark and at daylight the kettles were
+again steaming to prepare for the second day's celebration.</p>
+
+<p>By ten o'clock the court was crowded and a hour
+later there came a partial stillness which was broken by
+a sudden burst of music (?) from Chinese violins and
+pipes. Going outside we found most of the guests
+standing about an improvised altar. The foot of the
+coffin was just visible in the midst of the paper decorations
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_154">- 154 -</span>
+and in front of it were set half a dozen dishes
+of tempting food. These were meant as an offering
+to the spirit of the departed one, but we knew this would
+not prevent the sorrowing relatives from eating the food
+with much relish later on.</p>
+
+<p>In a few moments a group of women approached, supporting
+a figure clothed in white with a hood drawn
+over her face. She was bent nearly to the ground and
+muffled shrieks and wails came from the depths of her
+veil as she prostrated herself in front of the altar. For
+more than an hour this chief mourner, the wife of the
+deceased, lay on her face, her whole figure shaking
+with what seemed the most uncontrollable anguish. This
+same lady, however, moved about later among her guests
+an amiable hostess, with beaming countenance, the gayest
+of the gay. But every morning while the festivities
+lasted, promptly at eleven o'clock she would prostrate
+herself before the coffin and display heartrending grief
+in the presence of the unmoved spectators in order to
+satisfy the demands of "custom."</p>
+
+<p>Custom and precedent have grown to be divinities
+with the Chinese, and such a display of feigned emotion
+is required on certain prescribed occasions. As one
+missionary aptly described it "the Chinese are all face
+and no heart." Mr. Caldwell told us that one night
+while passing down a deserted street in a Chinese village
+he was startled to hear the most piercing shrieks
+issuing from a house nearby. Thinking someone was
+being murdered, he rushed through the courtyard only
+to find that a girl who was to be married the following
+day, according to Chinese custom, was displaying the
+most desperate anguish at the prospect of leaving her
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_155">- 155 -</span>
+family, even though she probably was enchanted with
+the idea.</p>
+
+<p>On the third day of the celebration in the temple at
+Li-chiang the feasting ended in a burst of splendor.
+From one o'clock until far past sundown the friends
+and relatives of the departed one were fed. Any person
+could receive an invitation by bringing a small present,
+even if it were only a bowl of rice or a few hundred cash
+(ten or fifteen cents).</p>
+
+<p>All during the morning girls and women flocked up
+the hill with trays of gifts. There were many Mosos
+and other tribesmen among them as well as Chinese.
+The Moso girls wore their black hair cut short on the
+sides and hanging in long narrow plaits down their
+backs. They wore white leather capes (at least that was
+the original shade) and pretty ornaments of silver and
+coral at their throats, and as they were young and gay
+with glowing red cheeks and laughing eyes they were
+decidedly attractive. The guests were seated in groups
+of six on the stones of the temple courtyard. Small
+boys acted as waiters, passing about steaming bowls of
+vegetables and huge straw platters heaped high with rice.
+As soon as each guest had stuffed himself to satisfaction
+he relinquished his place to someone else and the
+food was passed again. We were frequently pressed
+to eat with them and in the evening when the last guest
+had departed the "chief mourner" brought us some delicious
+fruit candied in black sugar. She told Wu that
+they had fed three hundred people during the day and
+we could well believe it. The next morning the coffin
+was carried down the hill to the accompaniment of anguished
+wails and we were left once more to the peace
+and quiet of our beautiful temple courtyard.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_156">- 156 -</span></p>
+
+<p>Sometimes a family will plunge itself into debt for
+generations to come to provide a suitable funeral for
+one of its members, because to bury the dead without
+the proper display would not only be to "lose face"
+but subject them to the possible persecution of the angered
+spirits. This is only one of the pernicious results
+of ancestor worship and it is safe to say that most
+of the evils in China's social order today can be traced,
+directly or indirectly, to this unfortunate practice.</p>
+
+<p>A man's chief concern is to leave male descendants
+to worship at his grave and appease his spirit. The
+more sons, grandsons, and great-grandsons who walk in
+his funeral procession, the more he is to be envied. As
+a missionary humorously says "the only law of God
+that ever has been obeyed in China is to be fruitful and
+multiply." Craving for progeny has brought into existence
+thousands upon thousands of human beings who
+exist on the very brink of starvation. Nowhere in the
+civilized world is there a more sordid and desperate
+struggle to maintain life or a more hopeless poverty.
+But fear and self-love oblige them to continue their blind
+breeding. The apparent atrophy of the entire race is
+due to ancestor worship which binds it with chains of
+iron to its dead and to its past, and not until these bonds
+are severed can China expect to take her place among
+the progressive nations of the earth.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_157">- 157 -</span></p>
+
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XIX">CHAPTER XIX</h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class="caption3">ACROSS THE YANGTZE GORGE</p>
+
+
+<p>In mid-November we left the White Water with a
+caravan of twenty-six mules and horses. Following the
+road from Li-chiang to the Yangtze, we crossed the
+"Black Water" and climbed steadily upward over several
+tremendous wooded ridges, each higher than the
+last, to the summit of the divide.</p>
+
+<p>The descent was gradual through a magnificent pine
+and spruce forest. Some of the trees were at least one
+hundred and fifty feet high, and were draped with
+beautiful gray moss which had looped itself from
+branch to branch and hung suspended in delicate
+streamers yards in length. The forest was choked with
+underbrush and a dense growth of dwarf bamboo, and
+the hundreds of fallen logs, carpeted with bronze moss,
+made ideal conditions for small mammal collecting.
+However, as all the species would probably be similar
+to those we had obtained on the Snow Mountain, we
+did not feel that it was worth while stopping to trap.</p>
+
+<p>At four-thirty in the afternoon we camped upon a
+beautiful hill in a pine forest which was absolutely
+devoid of underbrush, and where the floor was thinly
+overlaid with brown pine needles. Although the Moso
+hunter, who acted as our guide, assured us that the river
+was only three miles away, it proved to be more than
+fifteen, and we did not reach the ferry until half past
+one the next afternoon.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_158">- 158 -</span></p>
+
+<p>We were continually annoyed, as every traveler in
+China is, by the inaccuracy of the natives, and especially
+of the Chinese. Their ideas of distance are most
+extraordinary. One may ask a Chinaman how far it
+is to a certain village and he will blandly reply, "Fifteen
+<i>li</i> to go, but thirty <i>li</i> when you come back." After a
+short experience one learns how to interpret such an
+answer, for it means that when going the road is down
+hill and that the return uphill will require double the
+time.</p>
+
+<p>Caravans are supposed to travel ten <i>li</i> an hour, although
+they seldom do more than eight, and all calculations
+of distance are based upon time so far as the
+<i>mafus</i> are concerned. If the day's march is eight hours
+you invariably will be informed that the distance is
+eighty <i>li</i>, although in reality it may not be half as
+great.</p>
+
+<p>In "Chinese Characteristics," Dr. Arthur H. Smith
+gives many illuminating observations on the inaccuracy
+of the Chinese. In regard to distance he says:</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p>It is always necessary in land travel to ascertain, when the
+distance is given in "miles" (<i>li</i>), whether the "miles" are
+"large" or not! That there is some basis for estimates of distances
+we do not deny, but what we do deny is that these estimates
+or measurements are either accurate or uniform.</p>
+
+<p>It is, so far as we know, a universal experience that the moment
+one leaves a great imperial highway the "miles" become
+"long." If 120 <i>li</i> constitute a fair day's journey on the main
+road, then on country roads it will take fully as long to go 100
+<i>li</i>, and in the mountains the whole day will be spent in getting
+over 80 <i>li</i> (p. 51).</p>
+
+<p>In like manner, a farmer who is asked the weight of one of
+his oxen gives a figure which seems much too low, until he
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_159">- 159 -</span>
+explains that he has omitted to estimate the bones! A servant
+who was asked his height mentioned a measure which was
+ridiculously inadequate to cover his length, and upon being
+questioned admitted that he had left out of account all above his
+shoulders! He had once been a soldier, where the heft of the
+men's clavicle is important in assigning the carrying of burdens.
+And since a Chinese soldier is to all practical purposes
+complete without his head, this was omitted.</p>
+
+<p>Of a different sort was the measurement of a rustic who
+affirmed that he lived "ninety <i>li</i> from the city," but upon cross-examination
+he consented to an abatement, as this was reckoning
+both to the city and back, the real distance being as he admitted,
+only "forty-five <i>li</i> one way!" (p. 49) ...</p>
+
+<p>The habit of reckoning by "tens" is deep-seated, and leads
+to much vagueness. A few people are "ten or twenty," a "few
+tens," or perhaps "ever so many tens," and a strictly accurate
+enumeration is one of the rarest of experiences in China....
+An acquaintance told the writer that two men had spent "200
+strings of cash" on a theatrical exhibition, adding a moment
+later, "It was 173 strings, but that is the same as 200—is it
+not?" (p. 64).</p>
+
+<p>A man who wished advice in a lawsuit told the writer that
+he himself "lived" in a particular village, though it was obvious
+from his narrative that his abode was in the suburbs of a city.
+Upon inquiry, he admitted that he did not <i>now</i> live in the village,
+and further investigation revealed the fact that the removal
+took place nineteen generations ago! "But do you not
+almost consider yourself a resident of the city now?" he was
+asked. "Yes," he replied simply, "we do live there now, but
+the old root is in that village."</p>
+
+<p>... The whole Chinese system of thinking is based on a
+line of assumptions different from those to which we are accustomed,
+and they can ill comprehend the mania which seems to
+possess the Occidental to ascertain everything with unerring
+exactness. The Chinese does not know how many families there
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_160">- 160 -</span>
+are in his native village, and he does not wish to know. What
+any human being can want to know this number for is to him
+an insoluble riddle. It is "a few hundred," "several hundreds"
+or "not a few," but a fixed and definite number it never was
+and never will be. (p. 65.)</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>After breaking camp on the day following our departure
+from the "White Water" we rode along a
+broad trail through a beautiful pine forest and in the
+late morning stood on an open summit gazing on one
+of the most impressive sights which China has to offer.
+At the left, and a thousand feet below, the mighty
+Yangtze has broken through the mountains in a gorge
+almost a mile deep; a gorge which seems to have been
+carved out of the solid rock, sharp and clean, with a
+giant's knife. A few miles to the right the mountains
+widen, leaving a flat plain two hundred feet above the
+river. Every inch of it, as well as the finger-like valleys
+which stretch upward between the hills, is under
+cultivation, giving support for three villages, the largest
+of which is Taku.</p>
+
+<p>The ferry is in a bad place but it is the only spot for
+miles where the river can be crossed. The south bank
+is so precipitous that the trail from the plain twists and
+turns like a snake before it emerges upon a narrow
+sand and gravel beach. The opposite side of the river
+is a vertical wall of rock which slopes back a little at
+the lower end to form a steep hillside covered with short
+grass. The landing place is a mass of jagged rocks
+fronting a small patch of still water and the trail up the
+face of the cliff is so steep that it cannot be climbed by
+any loaded animal; therefore all the packs must be unstrapped
+and laboriously carted up the slope on the
+backs of the <i>mafus</i>.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_161">- 161 -</span></p>
+
+<p>At two-thirty in the afternoon we were loading the
+boat, which carried only two animals and their packs,
+for the first trip across the river. It was difficult to
+get the mules aboard for they had to be whipped, shoved
+and actually lifted bodily into the dory. One of the
+ferrymen first drew the craft along the rocks by a long
+rope, then climbed up the face of what appeared to be
+an absolutely flat wall, and after pulling the boat close
+beneath him, slid down into it. In this way the dory was
+worked well up stream and when pushed into the swift
+current was rowed diagonally to the other side.</p>
+
+<p>After four loads had been taken over, the boatmen
+decided to stop work although there was yet more than
+an hour of daylight and they could not be persuaded to
+cross again by either threats or coaxing. It was an
+uncomfortable situation but there was nothing to do
+but camp where we were even though the greater part
+of our baggage was on the other side, with only the
+<i>mafus</i> to guard it, and therefore open to robbery.</p>
+
+<p>About a third of a mile from the ferry we found a
+sandy cornfield on a level shelf just above the water,
+and pitched our tents. A slight wind was blowing and
+before long we had sand in our shoes, sand in our beds,
+sand in our clothes, and we were eating sand. Heller
+went down the river with a bag of traps while we set
+forty on the hills above camp, and after a supper of
+goral steak, which did much to allay the irritation of
+the day, we crawled into our sandy beds.</p>
+
+<p>At daylight Hotenfa visited the ferry and reported
+that the loads were safe but that one of the boatmen
+had gone to the village and no one knew when he would
+return. We went to the river with Wu as soon as
+breakfast was over and spent an aggravating hour trying
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_162">- 162 -</span>
+by alternate threats and cajoling to persuade the
+remaining ferryman to cross the river to us. But it
+was useless, for the louder I swore the more frightened
+he became and he finally retired into a rock cave from
+which the <i>mafus</i> had to drag him out bodily and drive
+him into the boat.</p>
+
+<p>The second boatman ambled slowly in about ten
+o'clock and we felt like beating them both, but Wu
+impressed upon us the necessity for patience if we ever
+expected to get our caravan across and we swallowed
+our wrath; nevertheless, we decided not to leave until
+the loads and mules were on the other side, and we ate
+a cold tiffin while sitting on the sand.</p>
+
+<p>Heller employed his time by skinning the twenty
+small mammals (one of which was a new rat) that our
+traps had yielded. We took a good many photographs
+and several rolls of "movie" film showing the efforts of
+the <i>mafus</i> to get the mules aboard. Some of them went
+in quietly enough but others absolutely refused to step
+into the boat. One of the <i>mafus</i> would pull, another
+push, a third twist the animal's tail and a fourth lift its
+feet singly over the side. With the accompaniment of
+yells, kicks, and Chinese oaths the performance was
+picturesque to say the least.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" id="img_f162a" style="width: 286px;">
+ <img src="images/img_f162a.png" width="286" height="356" alt="" />
+ <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">A Liso Hunter Carrying a Flying Squirrel</span></div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" id="img_f162b" style="width: 286px;">
+ <img src="images/img_f162b.png" width="286" height="353" alt="" />
+ <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">The Chief of Our Lolo Hunters</span></div>
+</div>
+
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_163">- 163 -</span></p>
+
+<p>By five o'clock the entire caravan had been taken
+across the racing green water and we had some time
+before dark in which to investigate the caverns with
+which the cliffs above the river are honeycombed. They
+were of two kinds, gold quarries and dwelling caves.
+The latter consist of a long central shaft, just high
+enough to allow a man to stand erect; this widens into
+a circular room. Along the sides of the corridor shallow
+nests have been scooped out to serve as beds and all
+the cooking is done not far from the door. The caves,
+although almost dark, make fairly comfortable living
+quarters and are by no means as dirty or as evil smelling
+as the ordinary native house. The mines are straight
+shafts dug into the cliffs where the rock is quarried
+and crushed by hand.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_164">- 164 -</span></p>
+
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XX">CHAPTER XX</h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class="caption3">THROUGH UNMAPPED COUNTRY</p>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">We</span> left the Taku ferry by way of a steep trail
+through an open pine and spruce forest along the rim
+of the Yangtze gorge where the view was magnificent.
+Someone has said that when a tourist sees the Grand
+Cañon for the first time he gasps "Indescribable" and
+then immediately begins to describe it. Thus it was
+with us, but no words can picture the grandeur of this
+titanic chasm. In places the rocks were painted in
+delicate tints of blue and purple; in others, the sides
+fell away in sheer drops of hundreds of feet to the
+green torrent below rushing on to the sea two thousand
+five hundred miles away.</p>
+
+<p>The caravan wound along the edge of the gorge all
+day and we were left far behind, for at each turn a
+view more beautiful than the last opened out before
+us, and until every color plate and negative in the
+holders had been exposed we worked steadily with the
+camera.</p>
+
+<p>We were traveling northwestward through an unmapped
+region which Baron Haendel-Mazzetti had
+skirted and reported to be one of vast forests and probably
+rich in game. After six hours of riding over almost
+bare mountain-sides we passed through a parklike
+spruce forest and reached Habala, a long thin village
+of mud and stone houses scattered up the sides of
+a narrow valley.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_165">- 165 -</span></p>
+
+<p>Above and to the left of the village rose ridge after
+ridge of dense spruce forest overshadowed by a snow-crowned
+peak and cut by deep ravines, the gloomy
+depths of which yielded fascinating glimpses of rocky
+cliffs—a veritable paradise for serow and goral. Our
+camping place was a grassy lawn as flat and smooth as
+the putting green of a golf course. Just below the
+tents a streamlet of ice-cold water murmured comfortably
+to itself and a huge dead tree was lying crushed
+and broken for the camp fire.</p>
+
+<p>The boys turned the beautiful spot into "home" in
+half an hour and, after setting a line of traps, we wandered
+slowly back through the darkness guided by the
+brilliant flames of the fires which threw a warm yellow
+glow over our little table spread for dinner.</p>
+
+<p>We sent men to the village to bring in hunters and
+after dinner four or five picturesque Mosos appeared.
+They said that there were many serow, goral, muntjac
+and some wapiti in the forests above the village, and
+we could well believe it, for there was never a more
+"likely looking" spot. Although the men did not claim
+to be professional hunters, nevertheless they said that
+they had good dogs and had killed many muntjac and
+other animals.</p>
+
+<p>They agreed to come at daylight and arrived about
+two hours late, which was doing fairly well for natives.
+It was a brilliant day just warm enough for comfort
+in the sun and we left camp with high hopes. However
+it did not take many hours to demonstrate that
+the men knew almost nothing about hunting and that
+their dogs were useless. Because of the dense cover
+"still hunting" was out of the question and, after a
+hard climb. We returned to camp to spend the remainder
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_166">- 166 -</span>
+of the afternoon developing photographs and preparing
+small mammals.</p>
+
+<p>Our traps had yielded three new shrews and a silver
+mole as well as a number of mice, rats, and meadow
+voles of species identical with those taken on the Snow
+Mountain. It was evident, therefore, that the Yangtze
+River does not act as an effective barrier to the distribution
+of even the smallest forms and that the region
+in which we were now working would not produce a
+different fauna. This was an important discovery from
+the standpoint of our distribution records but was also
+somewhat disappointing.</p>
+
+<p>The photographic work already had yielded excellent
+results. The Paget color plates were especially
+beautiful and the fact that everything was developed
+in the field gave us an opportunity to check the quality
+of each negative.</p>
+
+<p>For this work the portable dark room was invaluable.
+It could be quickly erected and suspended from
+a tree branch or the rafters of a temple and offered an
+absolutely safe place in which to develop or load plates.
+The moving-picture film required special treatment because
+of its size and we usually fastened in the servants'
+tent the red lining which had been made for this
+purpose in New York. Even then the space was so
+cramped that we were dead tired at the end of a few
+hours' work.</p>
+
+<p>One who sits comfortably in a theater or hall and
+sees moving-picture film which has been obtained in
+such remote parts of the world does not realize the
+difficulties in its preparation. The water for developing
+almost invariably was dirty and in order to insure
+even a moderately clear film it always had to be strained.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_167">- 167 -</span>
+For washing the negative pailful after pailful had to
+be carried sometimes from a very long distance, and the
+film exposed for hours to the carelessness or curiosity
+of the natives. In our cramped quarters perhaps a corner
+of the tent would be pushed open admitting a
+stream of light; the electric flash lamp might refuse to
+work, leaving us in complete darkness to finish the developing
+"by guess and by gosh," or any number of
+other accidents occur to ruin the film. At most we
+could not develop more than three hundred feet in an
+afternoon and we never breathed freely until it finally
+was dried and safely stored away in the tin cans.</p>
+
+<p>We left Habala, on November 28, for a village called
+Phete where the natives had assured us we would find
+good hunters with dogs. For almost the entire distance
+the road skirted the rim of the Yangtze gorge and
+there the view of the great chasm was even more magnificent
+than that we had left. While its sides are not
+fantastically sculptured and the colors are softer than
+those of the Grand Cañon of the Colorado, nevertheless
+its grandeur is hardly less imposing and awe-inspiring.
+If Yün-nan is ever made accessible by railroads this
+gorge should become a Mecca for tourists, for it is
+without doubt one of the most remarkable natural sights
+in the world.</p>
+
+<p>About two o'clock in the afternoon we saw three
+clusters of houses on a tableland which juts into a chasm
+cut by a tributary of the great river. One of them was
+Phete and it seemed that we would reach the village in
+half an hour at least, but the road wound so tortuously
+around the hillside, down to the stream and up again
+that it was an hour and a half before we found a camping
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_168">- 168 -</span>
+place on a narrow terrace a short distance from the
+nearest houses.</p>
+
+<p>Next day we could not go to the village to find
+hunters until mid-forenoon because the natives of this
+region are very late risers and often have not yet opened
+their doors at ten o'clock. This is quite contrary to the
+custom in many other parts of China where the inhabitants
+are about their work in the first light of dawn.</p>
+
+<p>The hills above Phete are bare or thinly forested and
+every available inch of level ground is under cultivation
+with corn and a few rice paddys near the creek; the
+latter were a great surprise, for we had not expected
+to find rice so far north. The village itself was exceedingly
+picturesque but never have we met people of such
+utter and hopeless stupidity as its inhabitants. They
+were pleasant enough and always greeted us with a
+smile and salutation, but their brains seemed not to
+have kept pace with their bodies and when asked the
+simplest question they would only stare stupidly without
+the slightest glimmering of intelligence.</p>
+
+<p>It required an hour's questioning of a dozen or more
+people to glean that there were no hunters in the village
+where they had lived all their lives, but Wu, our
+interpreter, finally discovered a Chinese who told us of
+a hunter in the mountains. He asked how far and the
+answer was "Not very far."</p>
+
+<p>"Well, is it ten <i>li!</i>"</p>
+
+<p>"I don't know how many <i>li</i>."</p>
+
+<p>"Have you ever been there?"</p>
+
+<p>"Yes; it is only a few steps."</p>
+
+<p>"How long will it take to get there?"</p>
+
+<p>"About the time of one meal."</p>
+
+<p>We were not to be deceived, for we had had experience
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_169">- 169 -</span>
+with native ideas of distance, and we ate our tiffin
+before starting out on the "few steps." A steep trail
+led up the valley and after three hours of steady riding
+we reached the hunter's village of three large houses on
+a flat strip of cleared ground in the midst of a dense
+forest.</p>
+
+<p>The people looked much like those of Phete but were
+rather anemic specimens, and five out of eight had enormous
+goiters. They were exceedingly shy at first,
+watching us with side glances and through cracks in the
+wall. Wu learned that we were the first white persons
+they had ever seen. I imagine that much of their unhealthiness
+was due to too close intermarriage, for these
+families had little intercourse with the people in Phete
+who were only "a few steps" away.</p>
+
+<p>As we were leaving they began to eat their supper
+in the courtyard. The principal dish consisted of mixed
+cornmeal and rice, boiled squash and green vegetables.
+All the women were busy husking corn which was hung
+to dry on great racks about the house. These racks
+we had noticed in every village since leaving Li-chiang
+and they seemed to be in universal use in the north.</p>
+
+<p>The hunter had a flock of sheep and we purchased
+one for $4.40 (Mexican) but there was considerable
+difficulty in paying for it since these people had never
+seen Chinese money even though living in China itself.
+For currency they used chunks of silver the size of a
+walnut and worth about one dollar (Mexican). The
+Chinese guide finally persuaded the people of the genuineness
+of our money and we purchased a few eggs
+and a little very delicious wild honey besides the sheep.
+These people as well as those of Phete spoke the Li-chiang
+dialect but with such variation that even our
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_170">- 170 -</span>
+<i>mafus</i> could understand them only with the greatest
+difficulty.</p>
+
+<p>When we returned to camp we found that the coolie
+who had been engaged to carry the motion-picture camera
+and tripod had left without the formality of saying
+"good-by" or asking for the money which was due him.
+We had had considerable trouble with the camera
+coolies since leaving Li-chiang. The first one carried
+the camera to the Taku ferry with many groans, and
+there engaged a huge Chinaman to take his place, for
+he thought the load too heavy. It only weighed fifty
+pounds, and in the Fukien Province where men seldom
+carry less than eighty pounds and sometimes as much
+as one hundred and fifty, it would have been considered
+as only half a burden. In Yün-nan, however, animals
+do most of the pack carrying, and coolies protest at
+even an ordinary load.</p>
+
+<p>We left Phete in the early morning and camped
+about five hundred feet above the hunter's cabin in a
+beautiful little meadow. It was surrounded with splendid
+pine trees, and a clear spring bubbled up from a
+knoll in the center and spread fan-shaped in a dozen
+little streams over the edge of a deep ravine where a
+mountain torrent rushed through a tangled bamboo
+jungle. The gigantic fallen trees were covered inches
+deep with green moss, and altogether it was an ideal
+spot for small mammals. Our traps, however, yielded
+no new species, although we secured dozens of specimens
+every night.</p>
+
+<p>There were a few families of Lolos about two miles
+away and these were engaged as hunters. They told
+us that serow and muntjac were abundant and that
+wapiti were sometimes found on the mountains several
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_171">- 171 -</span>
+miles to the northward. Although the men had a large
+pack of good dogs they were such unsatisfactory hunters
+that we gave up in disgust after three days. They
+never would appear until ten or eleven o'clock in the
+morning when the sun had so dried the leaves that the
+scent was lost and the dogs could not follow a trail even
+if one were found. Moreover, the camp was a very uncomfortable
+one, due to the wind which roared through
+the trees night and day.</p>
+
+<p>We were rejoined here by Hotenfa, who had left us
+at the Taku ferry to see if he could get together a pack
+of dogs. He brought three hounds with him which he
+praised exuberantly, but we subsequently found that
+they did not justify our hopes. Nevertheless, we were
+glad to have Hotenfa back, for he was one of the most
+intelligent, faithful, and altogether charming natives
+whom we met in all Yün-nan. He was an uncouth savage
+when he first came to us, but in a very short time
+he had learned our camp ways and was as good a servant
+as any we had.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_172">- 172 -</span></p>
+
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXI">CHAPTER XXI</h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class="caption3">TRAVELING TOWARD TIBET</p>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Since</span> the hunters at the "Windy Camp" had proved
+so worthless and the traps had yielded no small mammals
+new to our collection, we decided to cross the
+mountains toward the Chung-tien road which leads into
+Tibet.</p>
+
+<p>The head <i>mafu</i> explored the trail and reported that
+it was impassable but, after an examination of some of
+the worst barriers, we decided that they could be cleared
+away and ordered the caravan to start at half past seven
+in the morning.</p>
+
+<p>Before long we found that the <i>mafus</i> were right.
+The trail was a mass of tangled underbrush and fallen
+logs and led straight up a precipitous mountain through
+a veritable jungle of dwarf bamboo. It was necessary
+to stop every few yards to lift the loads over a barrier
+or cut a passage through the bamboo thickets, and had
+it not been for the adjustable pack saddles we never
+could have taken the caravan over the trail.</p>
+
+<p>Late in the afternoon the exhausted men and animals
+dragged themselves to the summit of the mountain, for
+it was not a pass. In a few hours we had come from
+autumn to mid-winter where the ground was frozen and
+covered with snow. We were at an altitude of more
+than 15,000 feet and far above all timber except the
+rhododendron forest which spread itself out in a low
+gray mass along the ridges. It was difficult to make
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_173">- 173 -</span>
+the slightest exertion in the thin air and a bitterly cold
+wind swept across the peaks so that it was impossible
+to keep warm even when wrapped in our heaviest coats.</p>
+
+<p>The servants and <i>mafus</i> suffered considerably but it
+was too late to go on and there was no alternative but
+to spend the night on the mountain. As soon as the
+tents were up the men huddled disconsolately about the
+fire, but we started out with a bag of traps while Heller
+went in the opposite direction. We expected to catch
+some new mammals during the night, for there were
+great numbers of runways on the bare hillsides. The
+ground was frozen so solidly that it was necessary to
+cut into the little <i>Microtus</i> tunnels with a hatchet in
+order to set the traps and we were almost frozen before
+the work was completed. The next morning we had
+caught twenty specimens of a new white-bellied meadow
+vole and a remarkable shrew with a long curved proboscis.</p>
+
+<p>Everyone had spent an uncomfortable night, for it
+was bitterly cold even in our sleeping bags and the men
+had sat up about the fire in order to keep from freezing.
+There was little difficulty in getting the caravan started
+in the gray light of early dawn and after descending
+abruptly four thousand feet on a precipitous trail to a
+Lolo village strung out along a beautiful little valley
+we were again in the pleasant warmth of late autumn.</p>
+
+<p>The natives here had never before seen a white person
+and in a few moments our tents were surrounded by
+a crowd of strange-looking men and boys. The chief
+of the village presented us with an enormous rooster
+and we made him happy by returning two tins of cigarettes.
+The Lolo women, the first we had seen, were
+especially surprising because of their graceful figures
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_174">- 174 -</span>
+and handsome faces. Their flat turbans, short jackets,
+and long skirts with huge flounces gave them a rather
+old-fashioned aspect, quite out of harmony with the
+metal neck-bands, earrings, and bracelets which they
+all wore.</p>
+
+<p>The men were exceedingly pleasant and made a picturesque
+group in their gray and brown felt capes which
+they gather about the neck by a draw string and, to
+the Lolos and Mosos alike, are both bed and clothing.
+We collected all the men for their photographs, and
+although they had not the slightest idea what we were
+about they stood quietly after Hotenfa had assured
+them that the strange-looking instrument would not
+go off. But most interesting of all was their astonishment
+when half an hour later they saw the negative and
+were able to identify themselves upon it.</p>
+
+<p>The Lolos are apparently a much maligned race.
+They are exceedingly independent, and although along
+the frontier of their own territory in S'suchuan they
+wage a war of robbery and destruction it is not wholly
+unprovoked. No one can enter their country safely unless
+he is under the protection of a chief who acts as a
+sponsor and passes him along to others. Mr. Brooke,
+an Englishman, was killed by the Lolos, but he was not
+properly "chaperoned," and Major D'Ollone of the
+French expedition lived among them safely for some
+time and gives them unstinted praise.</p>
+
+<p>Whenever we met tribesmen in Yün-nan who had
+not seen white persons they behaved much like all other
+natives. They were, of course, always greatly astonished
+to see our caravan descend upon them and were
+invariably fascinated by our guns, tents, and in fact
+everything about us, but were generally shy and decidedly
+less offensive in their curiosity than the Chinese
+of the larger inland towns to whom foreigners are by
+no means unknown. As a matter of fact we have found
+that our white skins, light eyes, and hair are a never
+failing source of interest and envy to almost all Orientals.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" id="img_f174a" style="width: 367px;">
+ <img src="images/img_f174a.png" width="367" height="284" alt="" />
+ <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">A Lolo Village</span></div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" id="img_f174b" style="width: 366px;">
+ <img src="images/img_f174b.png" width="366" height="282" alt="" />
+ <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">Lolos Seeing Their Photographs for the First Time</span></div>
+</div>
+
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_175">- 175 -</span></p>
+
+<p>Yvette usually excited the most curiosity, especially
+among the women, and as she wore knickerbockers and
+a flannel shirt there were times when the determination
+of her sex seemed to call forth the liveliest discussion.
+Her long hair, however, usually settled the matter, and
+then the women had decided the question of gender
+satisfactorily they often made timid, and most amusing,
+advances. One woman said she greatly admired her
+fair complexion and asked how many baths she took to
+keep her skin so white. Another wondered whether it
+was necessary to ever comb her hair and almost everyone
+wished to feel her clothes and shoes. She always
+would command more attention than anyone else by her
+camera operations, and a group would stand in speechless
+amazement to see her dodge in and out of the portable
+dark room when she was developing photographs
+or loading plates.</p>
+
+<p>We made arrangements to go with a number of the
+Lolos to a spot fifteen miles away on the Chung-tien
+road to hunt wapiti (probably <i>Cervus macneilli</i>) which
+the natives call <i>maloo</i>. Our American wapiti, or elk,
+is a migrant from Asia by way of the Bering Strait and
+is probably a relative of the wapiti which is found in
+Central Asia, China, Manchuria and Korea.</p>
+
+<p>At present these deer are abundant in but few places.
+Throughout the Orient, and especially in China, the
+growing horns when they are soft, or in the "velvet,"
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_176">- 176 -</span>
+are considered of great medicinal value and, during the
+summer, the animals are trapped and hunted relentlessly
+by the natives. In Yün-nan, when we were there,
+a pair of horns were worth $100 (Mexican).</p>
+
+<p>Thanksgiving morning dawned gray and raw with
+occasional flurries of haillike snow, but we did not heed
+the cold, for the trail led over two high ridges and along
+the rim of a tremendous gorge. To the south the white
+summits of the Snow Mountain range towered majestically
+above the surrounding peaks and, in the gray
+light, the colors were beautiful beyond description. To
+the north we could see heavily wooded mountain slopes
+interspersed with open parklike meadows—splendid
+wapiti country.</p>
+
+<p>Our tents were pitched two hundred yards from the
+Chung-tien road just within the edge of a stately, moss-draped
+forest. That night we celebrated with harmless
+bombs from the huge fires of bamboo stalks which exploded
+as they filled with steam and echoed among the
+trees like pistol shots. Marco Polo speaks of the same
+phenomenon which he first witnessed in this region over
+six hundred and thirty years ago.</p>
+
+<p>About nine o'clock in the evening we ran our traps
+with a lantern and besides several mice (<i>Apodemus</i>)
+found two rare shrews and a new mole (<i>Blarina</i>). I
+went out with the hunters at dawn but saw nothing except
+an old wapiti track and a little sign. All during
+the following day a dense fog hung close to the ground
+so that it was impossible to hunt, and, on the night of
+December 2, it snowed heavily. The morning began
+bright and clear but clouded about ten o'clock and became
+so bitterly cold that the Lolos would not hunt.
+They really suffered considerably and that night they
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_177">- 177 -</span>
+all left us to return to their homes. We were greatly
+disappointed, for we had brilliant prospects of good
+wapiti shooting but without either men or dogs and in
+an unknown country there was little possibility of successful
+still hunting.</p>
+
+<p>The <i>mafus</i> were very much worried and refused to go
+further north. They were certain that we would not be
+able to cross the high passes which lay between us and
+the Mekong valley far to the westward and complained
+unceasingly about the freezing cold and the lack of food
+for their animals. It was necessary to visit the Mekong
+River, for even though it might not be a good big game
+region it would give us a cross-section, as it were, of the
+fauna and important data on the distribution of small
+mammals. Therefore we decided to leave for the long
+ride as soon as the weather permitted.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_178">- 178 -</span></p>
+
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXII">CHAPTER XXII</h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class="caption3">STALKING TIBETANS WITH A CAMERA</p>
+
+<p class="caption4"><i>Y. B. A.</i></p>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">The</span> road near which we were camped was one of the
+great trade routes into Tibet and over it caravans were
+continually passing laden with tea or pork. Many of
+them had traveled the entire length of Yün-nan to
+S'su-mao on the Tonking frontier where a special kind
+of tea is grown, and were hurrying northward to cross
+the snow-covered passes which form the gateways to
+the "Forbidden Land."</p>
+
+<p>The caravans sometimes stopped for luncheon or to
+spend the night near our camp. As the horses came up,
+one by one the loads were lifted off, the animals turned
+loose, and after their dinner of buttered tea and
+<i>tsamba</i><a id="FNanchor_5" href="#Footnote_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a> each man stretched out upon the ground
+without shelter of any kind and heedless of the freezing
+cold. It is truly the life of primitive man and has bred
+a hardy, restless, independent race, content to wander
+over the boundless steppes and demanding from the
+outside world only to be let alone.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_5" href="#FNanchor_5" class="label">[5]</a> <i>Tsamba</i> is parched oats or barley, ground finely.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<p>They are picturesque, wild-looking fellows, and in
+their swinging walk there is a care-free independence
+and an atmosphere of the bleak Tibetan steppes which
+are strangely fascinating. Every Tibetan is a study
+for an artist. He wears a fur cap and a long loose coat
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_179">- 179 -</span>
+like a Russian blouse thrown carelessly off one shoulder
+and tied about the waist, blue or red trousers, and high
+boots of felt or skin reaching almost to the knees. A
+long sword, its hilt inlaid with bright-colored bits of
+glass or stones, is half concealed beneath his coat, and
+he is seldom without a gun or a murderous looking
+spear.</p>
+
+<p>In the breast of his loose coat, which acts as a pocket,
+he carries a remarkable assortment of things; a pipe,
+tobacco, tea, <i>tsamba</i>, cooking pots, a snuff box and,
+hanging down in front, a metal charm to protect him
+from bullets or sickness.</p>
+
+<p>The eastern Tibetans are men of splendid physique
+and great strength, and are frequently more than six
+feet in height. They have brick-red complexions and
+some are really handsome in a full-blooded masculine
+way. Their straight features suggest a strong mixture
+of other than Mongolian stock and they are the direct
+antithesis of the Chinese in every particular. Their
+strength and virility and the dashing swing of their
+walk are very refreshing after contact with the ease-loving,
+effeminate Chinaman whom one sees being carried
+along the road sprawled in a mountain chair.</p>
+
+<p>Of all natives whom we tried to photograph the
+Tibetans were the most difficult. It was almost impossible
+to bribe them with money or tin cans to stand for
+a moment and when they saw the motion picture camera
+set up beside the trail they would make long detours to
+avoid passing in front of it.</p>
+
+<p>What we could not get by bribery we tried to do by
+stealth and concealed ourselves behind bushes with the
+camera focused on a certain spot upon the road. The
+instant a Tibetan discovered it he would run like a
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_180">- 180 -</span>
+frightened deer and in some mysterious way they seemed
+to have passed the word along that our camp was a
+spot to be avoided. Sometimes a bottle was too great
+a temptation to be resisted, and one would stand timidly
+like a bird with wings half spread, only to dash
+away as though the devil were after him, when he saw
+my head disappear beneath the focusing hood.</p>
+
+<p>Wu and a <i>mafu</i> who could speak a little Tibetan
+finally captured one picturesque looking fellow. He
+carefully tucked the tin cans, given for advance payment,
+inside his coat, and with a great show of bravery
+allowed me to place him where I wished. But the instant
+the motion picture camera swung in his direction
+he dodged aside, and jumped behind it. Wu tried to
+hold him but the Tibetan drew his sword, waved it
+wildly about his head and took to his heels, yelling at
+the top of his lungs. He was well-nigh frightened to
+death and when he disappeared from sight at a curve in
+the road he was still "going strong" with his coat tails
+flapping like a sail in the wind.</p>
+
+<p>One caravan came suddenly upon the motion picture
+camera unawares. There were several women in the
+party and, as soon as the men realized that there was
+no escape, each one dodged behind a woman, keeping
+her between him and the camera. They were taking no
+chances with their precious selves, for the women could
+be replaced easily enough if necessary.</p>
+
+<p>The trouble is that the Tibetan not unnaturally has
+the greatest possible suspicion and dislike for strangers.
+The Chinese he loathes and despises, and foreigners he
+knows only too well are symptoms of missionaries and
+punitive expeditions or other disturbances of his immemorial
+peace. He is confirmed in his attitude by the
+Church which throughout Tibet has the monopoly of
+all the gold in the country. And the Church utterly
+declines to believe that any foreigner can come so far
+for any end less foolish than the discovery of gold and
+the infringing of the ecclesiastical monopoly.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" id="img_f180a" style="width: 365px;">
+ <img src="images/img_f180a.png" width="365" height="286" alt="" />
+ <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">Travelers in the Mekong Valley</span></div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" id="img_f180b" style="width: 364px;">
+ <img src="images/img_f180b.png" width="364" height="284" alt="" />
+ <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">Two Tibetans</span></div>
+</div>
+
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_181">- 181 -</span></p>
+
+<p>Major Davies, who saw much of the Yün-nan Tibetans,
+has remarked that it is curious how little impression
+the civilization and customs of the Chinese have
+produced on the Tibetans. Elsewhere, one of the principal
+characteristics of Chinese expansion is its power
+of absorbing other races, but with the Tibetans exactly
+the reverse takes place. The Chinese become Tibetanized
+and the children of a Chinaman married to a Tibetan
+woman are usually brought up in the Tibetan customs.</p>
+
+<p>Probably the great cause which keeps the Tibetan
+from being absorbed is the cold, inhospitable nature of
+his country. There is little to tempt the Chinese to emigrate
+into Tibet and consequently they never are there
+in sufficient numbers to influence the Tibetans around
+them. A similar cause has preserved some of the low-lying
+Shan states from absorption, the heat in this case
+being the reason that the Chinese do not settle there.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_182">- 182 -</span></p>
+
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXIII">CHAPTER XXIII</h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class="caption3">WESTWARD TO THE MEKONG RIVER</p>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">During</span> the night of December 4, there was a heavy
+fall of snow and in the morning we awoke to find ourselves
+in fairyland. We were living in a great white
+palace, with ceiling and walls of filmy glittering webs.
+The long, delicate strands of gray moss which draped
+themselves from tree to tree and branch to branch were
+each one converted into threads of crystal, forming a
+filigree lacework, infinitely beautiful.</p>
+
+<p>It was hard to break camp and leave that silver palace,
+for every vista through the forest seemed more
+lovely than the one before, but we knew that another
+fall of snow would block the passes and shut us out from
+the Mekong valley. The <i>mafus</i> even refused to try the
+direct route across the mountains to Wei-hsi and insisted
+on going southward to the Shih-ku ferry and up
+the Yangtze River on the main caravan route.</p>
+
+<p>It was a long trip and we looked forward with no
+pleasure to eight days of hard riding. The difficulty
+in obtaining hunters since leaving the Snow Mountain
+had made our big game collecting negligible although we
+had traveled through some excellent country. The
+Mekong valley might not be better but it was an unknown
+quantity and, whether or not it yielded specimens,
+the results from a survey of the mammal distribution
+would be none the less important, and we felt that
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_183">- 183 -</span>
+it must be done; otherwise we should have turned our
+backs on the north and returned to Ta-li Fu.</p>
+
+<p>As we rode down the mountain trail we passed caravan
+after caravan of Tibetans with heavily loaded
+horses, all bound for that land of mystery beyond the
+snow-capped barriers. Often we tried to stop some of
+the red-skinned natives and persuade them to pose for
+a color photograph, but usually they only shook their
+heads stubbornly and hurried past with averted faces.
+We finally waylaid a Chinese and a Tibetan who were
+walking together. The Chinaman was an amiable fellow
+and by giving each of them a glass jam tumbler
+they halted a moment. As soon as the photograph had
+been taken the Chinese indicated that he expected us
+to produce one and was thoroughly disgusted when we
+showed him that it was impossible.</p>
+
+<p>Repassing the Lolo village, we followed the river
+gorge at the upper end of which Chung-tien is located
+and left the forests when we emerged on the main road.
+From the top of a ten thousand foot pass there was a
+magnificent view down the cañon to the snow-capped
+mountains, which were beautiful beyond description in
+their changing colors of purple and gold.</p>
+
+<p>Just after leaving the pass we met a caravan of several
+hundred horses each bearing two whole pigs bent
+double and tied to the saddles. The animals had been
+denuded of hair, salted, and sewn up, and soon would
+be distributed among the villages somewhere in the interior
+of Tibet.</p>
+
+<p>On the second day we saw before us seven snow-crowned
+peaks as sharp and regular as the teeth of a
+saw rising above the mouth of the stream where it
+spreads like a fan over a sandy delta and empties into
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_184">- 184 -</span>
+the Yangtze. Here the mighty river, flowing proudly
+southward from its home in the wind-blown steppes of
+the "Forbidden Land," countless ages ago found the
+great Snow Mountain range barring its path. Thrust
+aside, it doubled back upon itself along the barrier's
+base, still restlessly seeking a passage through the wall
+of rock. Far to the north it bit hungrily into the mountain's
+side again, broke through, and swung south
+gathering strength and volume from hundreds of tributaries
+as it rushed onward to the sea.</p>
+
+<p>For two days we rode along the river bank and
+crossed at the Shih-ku ferry. There was none of the
+difficulty here which we had experienced at Taku, for
+the river is wide and the current slow. It required only
+two hours to transport our entire caravan while at the
+other ferry we had waited a day and a half. Strangely
+enough, although there are dozens of villages along the
+Yangtze and the valley is highly cultivated, we saw no
+sign of fishing. Moreover, we passed but three boats
+and five or six rafts and it was evident that this great
+waterway, which for fifteen hundred miles from its
+mouth influences the trade of China so profoundly, is
+here used but little by the natives.</p>
+
+<p>On the ride down the river we had good sport with
+the huge cranes (probably <i>Grus nigricollis</i>) which, in
+small flocks, were feeding along the river fields. The
+birds stood about five feet high and we could see their
+great black and white bodies and black necks farther
+than a man was visible. It was fairly easy to stalk them
+to within a hundred yards, but even at that distance they
+offered a rather small target, for they were so largely
+wings, neck, legs, and tail. We were never within shotgun
+range and indeed it would be difficult to kill the
+birds with anything smaller than BB or buckshot unless
+they were very near.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" id="img_f184a" style="width: 368px;">
+ <img src="images/img_f184a.png" width="368" height="506" alt="" />
+ <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">The Gorge of the Yangtze River</span></div>
+</div>
+
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_185">- 185 -</span></p>
+
+<p>Heller shot our first cranes with his .250-.300 Savage
+rifle. He stole upon five which were feeding in a meadow
+and fired while two were "lined up." One of the huge
+birds flapped about on the ground for a few moments
+and lay still, but the larger was only wing-tipped and
+started off at full speed across the fields. Two <i>mafus</i>
+left the caravan, yelling with excitement, and ran for
+nearly half a mile before they overtook the bird. Then
+they were kept at bay for fifteen minutes by its long
+beak which is a really formidable weapon. As food the
+cranes were perfectly delicious when stuffed with chestnut
+dressing and roasted. Each one provided two meals
+for three of us with enough left over for hash and our
+appetites were by no means birdlike.</p>
+
+<p>Although the natives attempt to kill cranes they are
+not often successful, for the birds are very watchful and
+will not allow a man within a hundred yards. Such a
+distance for primitive guns or crossbows might as well
+be a hundred miles, but with our high-power rifles we
+were able to shoot as many as were needed for food.</p>
+
+<p>The birds almost invariably followed the river when
+flying and fed in the rice, barley, and corn fields not far
+from the water. It was an inspiring sight to see a flock
+of the huge birds run for a few steps along the ground
+and then launch themselves into the air, their black and
+white wings flashing in the sunlight. They formed into
+orderly ranks like a company of soldiers or strung out
+in a long thin line across the sky.</p>
+
+<p>When we disturbed a flock from especially desirable
+feeding grounds they would sometimes whirl and circle
+above the fields, ascending higher and higher in great
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_186">- 186 -</span>
+spirals until they were lost to sight, their musical voices
+coming faintly down to us like the distant shouts of
+happy children.</p>
+
+<p>When we returned to Ta-li Fu in early January,
+cranes were very abundant in the fields about the lake.
+They had arrived in late October and would depart in
+early spring, according to Mr. Evans. We often saw
+the birds on sand banks along the Yangtze, but they
+were usually resting or quietly walking about and were
+not feeding; apparently they eat only rice, barley, corn,
+or other grain.</p>
+
+<p>This species was discovered by the great traveler and
+naturalist, Lieutenant Colonel Prjevalsky, who found
+it in the Koko-nor region of Tibet, and it was later recorded
+by Prince Henri d'Orleans from Ts'ang in the
+Tibetan highlands. Apparently specimens from Yün-nan
+have not been preserved in museums and the bird
+was not known to occur in this portion of China.</p>
+
+<p>Along the Yangtze on our way westward we shot a
+good many mallard ducks (<i>Anas boscas</i>) and ruddy
+sheldrakes (<i>Casarca casarca</i>); the latter are universally
+known as "brahminy ducks" by the foreigners in Burma
+and Yün-nan, but they are not true ducks. The name
+is derived from the bird's beautiful buff and rufous color
+which is somewhat like that of the robes worn by the
+Brahmin priests. In America the name "sheldrake" is
+applied erroneously to the fish-eating mergansers, and
+much confusion has thus arisen, for the two are quite
+unrelated and belong to perfectly distinct groups. The
+mergansers have narrow, hooked, saw-toothed beaks
+quite unlike those of the sheldrakes, and their habits are
+entirely dissimilar.</p>
+
+<p>The brahminy ducks, although rather tough, are not
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_187">- 187 -</span>
+bad eating. We usually found them feeding in fields
+not far from the river or in flooded rice dykes, and very
+often sitting in pairs on the sand banks near the water.
+They have a bisyllabic rather plaintive note which is
+peculiarly fascinating to me and, like the honk of the
+Canada goose, awakens memories of sodden, wind-blown
+marshes, bobbing decoys, and a leaden sky shot
+through with V-shaped lines of flying birds.</p>
+
+<p>Mallards were frequently to be found with the sheldrakes,
+and we had good shooting along the river and
+in ponds and rice fields. We also saw a few teal but
+they were by no means abundant. Pheasants were
+scarce. We shot a few along the road and near some of
+our camps, but we found no place in Yün-nan where one
+could have even a fair day's shooting without the aid of
+a good dog. This is strikingly different from Korea
+where in a walk over the hillsides a dozen or more
+pheasants can be flushed within an hour.</p>
+
+<p>After two and one-half days' travel up the Yangtze
+we turned westward toward Wei-hsi and camped on a
+beautiful flat plain beside a tree-bordered stream. It
+was a cold clear night and after dinner and a smoke
+about the fire we all turned in.</p>
+
+<p>Both of us were asleep when suddenly a perfect bedlam
+of angry exclamations and Chinese curses roused
+the whole camp. In a few moments Wu came to our
+tent, almost speechless with rage and stammered,
+"Damn fool soldiers come try to take our horses; say if
+<i>mafu</i> no give them horses they untie loads. Shall I tell
+<i>mafu</i> break their heads?" We did not entirely understand
+the situation but it seemed quite proper to give
+the <i>mafus</i> permission to do the head-breaking, and they
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_188">- 188 -</span>
+went at it with a will. After a volley of blows, there
+was a scamper of feet on the frozen ground and the
+soldiers retired considerably the worse for wear.</p>
+
+<p>When the battle was over, Wu explained matters
+more fully. It appeared that a large detachment of
+soldiers had recently passed up this road to A-tun-tzu
+and four or five had remained behind to attend to the
+transport of certain supplies. Seeing an opportunity
+for "graft" the soldiers were stopping every caravan
+which passed and threatening to commandeer it unless
+the <i>mafus</i> gave a sufficient bribe to buy their immunity.
+Our <i>mafus</i>, with the protection which foreigners gave
+them, had paid off a few old scores with interest. That
+they had neglected no part of the reckoning was quite
+evident when next morning two of the soldiers came to
+apologize for their "mistake." One of them had a black
+and swollen eye and the other was nursing a deep cut
+on his forehead; they were exceedingly humble and did
+not venture into camp until they had been assured
+that we would not again loose our terrible <i>mafus</i> upon
+them.</p>
+
+<p>Such extortions are every day occurrences in many
+parts of China and it is little wonder that the military
+is cordially hated and feared by the peasants. The soldiers,
+taking advantage of their uniform, oppress the
+villagers in numberless ways from which there is no redress.
+If a complaint is made a dozen soldiers stand
+ready to swear that the offense was justified or was
+never committed, and the poor farmer is lucky if he
+escapes without a beating or some more severe punishment.
+It is a disgrace to China that such conditions are
+allowed to exist, and it is to be hoped that ere many
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_189">- 189 -</span>
+years have passed the country will awake to a proper
+recognition of the rights of the individual. Until she
+does there never can be a national spirit of patriotism
+in China and without patriotism the Republic can be
+one in name only.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_190">- 190 -</span></p>
+
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXIV">CHAPTER XXIV</h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class="caption3">DOWN THE MEKONG VALLEY</p>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">On</span> December 11, we had tiffin on the summit of a
+twelve thousand foot pass in a beautiful snow-covered
+meadow, from which we could see the glistening peaks
+of the vast mountain range which forms the Mekong-Salween
+divide. In the afternoon we readied Wei-hsi
+and camped in a grove of splendid pine trees on a hill
+overlooking the city. The place was rather disappointing
+after Li-chiang. The shops were poor and it was
+difficult to buy rice even though the entire valley was
+devoted to paddy fields, but we did get quantities of
+delicious persimmons.</p>
+
+<p>Wu told us that seven different languages were
+spoken in the city, and we could well believe it, for we
+recognized Mosos, Lolos, Chinese, and Tibetans. This
+region is nearly the extreme western limit of the Moso
+tribe which appears not to extend across the Mekong
+River.</p>
+
+<p>The mandarin at Wei-hsi received us hospitably and
+proved to be one of the most courteous officials whom
+we met in Yün-nan. We were sorry to learn that he
+was killed in a horrible way only a few weeks after our
+visit. Trouble arose with the peasants over the tax on
+salt and fifteen hundred rebelled, attacked the city, and
+captured it after a sharp fight. It was reported that
+they immediately beheaded the mandarin's wives and
+children, and boiled him alive in oil.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" id="img_f190a" style="width: 515px;">
+ <img src="images/img_f190a.png" width="515" height="366" alt="" />
+ <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">A Quiet Curve of the Mekong River</span></div>
+</div>
+
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_191">- 191 -</span></p>
+
+<p>Although the magistrate offered to assist us in every
+way we could obtain no information concerning either
+hunting grounds or routes of travel. The flying squirrels
+which we had hoped to find near the city were reported
+to come from a mountain range beyond the Mekong
+in Burma, and Wei-hsi was merely a center of distribution
+for the skins. Moreover, the natives said it
+would be impossible to obtain squirrels at that time of
+the year, for the mountain passes were so heavily covered
+with snow that neither men nor caravans could cross
+them.</p>
+
+<p>It was desirable, however, to descend to the Mekong
+River in order to determine whether there would be a
+change in fauna, and on Major Davies' map a small road
+was marked down the valley. A stiff climb of a day and
+a half over a thickly forested mountain ridge, frozen
+and snow-covered, brought us in sight of the green waters
+of the Mekong which has carved a gorge for itself
+in an almost straight line from the bleak Tibetan
+plateaus through Yün-nan and Indo-China to the sea.</p>
+
+<p>Our second camp was on the river at the mouth of a
+deep valley, near a small village. Wu said that the natives
+were Lutzus and I was inclined to believe he was
+right, although Major Davies indicates this region to be
+inhabited by Lisos. At any rate these people both in
+physical appearance and dress were quite distinct from
+the Lisos whom we met later.</p>
+
+<p>They were exceedingly pleasant and friendly and the
+chief, accompanied by four venerable men, brought a
+present of rice. I gave him two tins of cigarettes and
+the natives returned to the village wreathed in smiles.</p>
+
+<p>The garments of the Lutzus were characteristic and
+quite unlike those of the Mosos, Lisos or Tibetans. The
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_192">- 192 -</span>
+women wore a long coat or jacket of blue cloth, trousers,
+and a very full pleated skirt. The men were dressed in
+plum colored coats and trousers.</p>
+
+<p>The natives said that monkeys (probably <i>Pygathrix</i>)
+were often seen when the corn was ripe and that even yet
+they might be found in the forest across the river. Heller
+spent a day hunting them, but found none and we obtained
+only one new mammal in our traps. It was a tiny
+mouse (<i>Micromys</i>) but the remainder of the fauna was
+essentially the same as that of the Yangtze valley and the
+intervening country.</p>
+
+<p>For three days we traveled down the Mekong River.
+Although the natives said that the trail was good, we discovered
+when it was too late that it was too narrow and
+difficult to make it practicable for a caravan such as
+ours. It was necessary to continually remove the loads
+in order to lift them around sharp corners or over rocks,
+and the <i>mafus</i> sometimes had to cut away great sections
+of the bank. Usually only six or seven miles could be
+traversed after eight or nine hours of exhausting work,
+and we were glad when we could leave the river.</p>
+
+<p>The Mekong, on an average, is not more than a hundred
+yards wide in this region and, like the Yangtze, the
+water is very green from the Tibetan snows. The prevailing
+rock is red slate or sandstone instead of limestone,
+as in the country to the eastward, and the sides of the
+valley are so precipitous that it seems impossible for a
+human being to walk over them, and yet they are patched
+with brown corn fields from the summit to the water.
+Considering the small area available for cultivation there
+are a considerable number of inhabitants, who have gathered
+into villages and seldom live in isolated houses
+as in the Yangtze valley. Wherever a stream comes
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_193">- 193 -</span>
+down from the mountain-side or can be diverted by irrigating
+ditches, the ground is beautifully terraced for
+rice paddys, but in other places, corn and peas appear to
+be the principal crops. Very few vegetables, such as turnips,
+squash, carrots or potatoes are raised, which is
+rather remarkable, as they are so abundant in all the
+country between the Mekong and the Yangtze rivers.
+In several places the water was spanned by rope bridges.
+The cables are made of twisted bamboo, and as one end
+must necessarily be higher than the other, there are always
+two ropes, one to cross each way. The traveler is
+tied by leather thongs in a sitting position to a wooden
+"runner" which slides along the bamboo cable and shoots
+across the river at tremendous speed.</p>
+
+<p>The valley is hopeless from a zoölogical standpoint.
+It is too dry for small mammals and the mountain slopes
+are so precipitous, thinly forested, and generally undesirable,
+that, except for gorals, no other large game
+would live there. The bird life is decidedly uninteresting.
+There are no cranes or sheldrakes and, except for
+a few flocks of mallards which feed in the rice fields, we
+saw no other ducks or geese.</p>
+
+<p>On December 20, we turned away from the Mekong
+valley and began to march southeast by east across an
+unmapped region toward Ta-li Fu. We camped at
+night on a pretty ridge thickly covered with spruce trees
+just above a deep moist ravine. In the morning our
+traps contained several rare shrews, five silver moles, a
+number of interesting mice, and a beautiful rufous
+spiny rat. It was too good a place to leave and I sent
+Hotenfa to inquire from a family of natives if there was
+big game of any sort in the vicinity. He reported that
+there were goral not far away, and at half past eight
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_194">- 194 -</span>
+we rode down the trail for three miles when I left my
+horse at a peasant's house. They told us that the goral
+were on a rocky, thinly forested mountain which rose
+two thousand feet above the valley, and for an hour
+and a half we climbed steadily upward.</p>
+
+<p>We were resting near the summit on the rim of a deep
+cañon when Hotenfa excitedly whispered, "<i>gnai-yang</i>"
+and held up three fingers. He tried to show the animals
+to me and at last I caught sight of what I thought was a
+goral standing on a narrow ledge. I fired and a bit of
+rock flew into the air while the three gorals disappeared
+among the trees two hundred feet above the spot where
+I had supposed them to be.</p>
+
+<p>I was utterly disgusted at my mistake but we started
+on a run for the other side of the gorge. When we arrived,
+Hotenfa motioned me to swing about to the right
+while he climbed along the face of the rock wall. No
+sooner had he reached the edge of the precipice than I
+saw him lean far out, fire with my three-barrel gun, and
+frantically wave for me to come. I ran to him and,
+throwing my arms about a projecting shrub, looked
+down. There directly under us stood a huge goral, but
+just as I was about to shoot, the earth gave way beneath
+my feet and I would have fallen squarely on the animal
+had Hotenfa not seized me by the collar and drawn me
+back to safety.</p>
+
+<p>The goral had not discovered where the shower of dirt
+and stones came from before I fired hurriedly, breaking
+his fore leg at the knee. Without the slightest sign of
+injury the ram disappeared behind a corner of the rock.
+I dashed to the top of the ridge in time to see him running
+at full speed across a narrow open ledge toward a
+thick mass of cover on the opposite side of the cañon. I
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_195">- 195 -</span>
+fired just as the animal gained the trees and, at the
+crash of my rifle, the goral plunged headlong down the
+mountain, stone dead.</p>
+
+<p>It fell on a narrow slide of loose rock which led nearly
+to the bottom of the valley and, slipping and rolling in a
+cloud of red dust, dropped over a precipice. The ram
+brought up against an unstable boulder five hundred
+feet below us, and it required half an hour's hard work
+to reach the spot.</p>
+
+<p>When I finally lifted its head one of the horns which
+had been broken in the fall slipped through my fingers,
+and away went the goral on another rough and tumble
+descent, finally stopping on a rock ledge nearly eleven
+hundred feet from the place where it had been shot. We
+returned to camp at noon bringing joy with us, for, as
+my wife had remarked the day before, "We will soon
+have to eat chickens or cans."</p>
+
+<p>Heller hunted the gorals unsuccessfully the following
+day and we left on December 23, camping at night on a
+flat terrace beside a stream at the end of a moist ravine.
+We intended to spend Christmas here for it was a beautiful
+spot, surrounded by virgin forest, but our celebration
+was to be on Christmas Eve. The following day
+dawned bright and clear. There had not been a drop of
+rain for nearly a month and the weather was just warm
+enough for comfort in the sun with one's coat off, but at
+night the temperature dropped to about 16°+ or 20°+
+Fahr. The camp proved to be a good one, giving us two
+new mammals and, just after tiffin, Hotenfa came running
+in to report that he had discovered seven gray monkeys
+(probably <i>Pygathrix</i>) in a cornfield a mile away.</p>
+
+<p>The monkeys had disappeared ere we arrived, but
+while we were gone Yvette had been busy and, just
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_196">- 196 -</span>
+before dinner, she ushered us into our tent with great ceremony.
+It had been most wonderfully transformed. At
+the far end stood a Christmas tree, blazing with tiny
+candles and surrounded by masses of white cotton,
+through which shone red holly berries. Holly branches
+from the forest and spruce boughs lined the tent and
+hung in green waves from the ridge pole. At the base of
+the tree gifts which she had purchased in Hongkong in
+the preceding August were laid out.</p>
+
+<p>Heller mixed a fearful and wonderful cocktail from
+the Chinese wine and orange juice, and we drank to each
+other and to those at home while sitting on the ground
+and opening our packages. We had purchased two Tibetan
+rugs in Li-chiang and Wei-hsi, as Christmas presents
+for Yvette. These rugs usually are blue or red,
+with intricate designs in the center, and are well woven
+and attractive.</p>
+
+<p>To the servants and <i>mafus</i> we gave money and cigarettes.
+When the muleteers were brought to the tent to
+receive their gifts they evidently thought our blazing
+tree represented an altar, for they kneeled down and began
+to make the "chin, chin joss" which is always done
+before their heathen gods.</p>
+
+<p>Our Christmas dinner was a masterpiece. Four days
+previously I had shot a pair of mallard ducks and they
+formed the <i>pièce de résistance</i>. The dinner consisted of
+soup, ducks stuffed with chestnuts, currant jelly, baked
+squash, creamed carrots, chocolate cake, cheese and
+crackers, coffee and cigarettes.</p>
+
+<p>Christmas day we traveled, and in the late afternoon
+passed through a very dirty Chinese town in a deep valley
+near some extensive salt wells. Red clay dust lay
+thick over everything and the filth of the streets and
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_197">- 197 -</span>
+houses was indescribable. We camped in a cornfield a
+mile beyond the village, but were greatly annoyed by the
+Chinese who insisted on swarming into camp. Finally,
+unable longer to endure their insolent stares, I drove
+them with stones to the top of the hill, where they sat in
+row upon row exactly as in the "bleachers" at an
+American baseball game.</p>
+
+<p>When we left the following day we passed dozens of
+caravans and groups of men and women carrying great
+disks of salt. Each piece was stamped in red with the
+official mark for salt is a government monopoly and only
+licensed merchants are allowed to deal in it; moreover,
+the importation of salt from foreign countries is forbidden.
+For the purposes of administration, China is
+divided into seven or eight main circuits, each of which
+has its own sources of production and the salt obtained
+in one district may not be sold in another.</p>
+
+<p>In Yün-nan the salt of the province is supplied from
+three regions. The water from the wells is boiled in
+great cauldrons for several days, and the resulting deposit
+is earth impregnated with salt. This is crushed, mixed
+with water, and boiled again until only pure salt remains.
+After passing a village of considerable size called Peiping,
+we began the ascent of an exceedingly steep mountain
+range twelve thousand feet high. All the afternoon
+we toiled upward in the rain and camped late in the evening
+at a pine grove on a little plateau two-thirds of the
+way to the summit. During the night it snowed heavily
+and we awoke to find ourselves in a transformed world.</p>
+
+<p>Every tree and bush was dressed in garments of purest
+white and between the branches we could look westward
+across the valley toward the Mekong and the purple
+mountain wall of the Burma border. There were
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_198">- 198 -</span>
+still one thousand feet of climbing between us and the
+summit of the pass. The trail was almost blocked, but
+by slow work we forced our way through the drifts.
+Some of the mules were already weak from exposure and
+underfeeding, and two of them had to be relieved of their
+loads; they died the next day. Our <i>mafus</i> did not appear
+to suffer greatly although their legs were bare from
+the knees down and their feet had no covering except
+straw sandals. Indeed when we discovered, on the summit
+of the pass, a tiny hut in which a fire was burning,
+they waited only a few moments to warm themselves.</p>
+
+<p>We met two other caravans fighting their way up the
+mountain from the other side, and by following the trail
+which they had broken through the drifts we made fairly
+good time on the descent. There had been no snow on
+the broad, flat plain which we reached in the late afternoon
+and we found that its ponds and fields were alive
+with ducks, geese, and cranes. The birds were wild but
+we had good shooting when we broke camp in the morning
+and killed enough to last us several days.</p>
+
+<p>On December 31, our weary days of crossing range
+after range of tremendous mountains were ended, and
+we stood on the last pass looking down upon the great
+Chien-chuan plain. Outside the grim walls of the old
+city, which lies on the main A-tun-tzu-Ta-li Fu road,
+are two large marshy ponds and, away to the south, is an
+extensive lake. We camped just without the courtyard
+of a fine temple, and at four o'clock Yvette and I went
+over to the water which was swarming with ducks and
+geese.</p>
+
+<p>Neither of us will ever forget that shoot in the glorious
+afternoon sunlight. Cloud after cloud of ducks rose as
+we neared the pond and circled high above our heads, but
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_199">- 199 -</span>
+now and then a straggling mallard or "pin tail" would
+swing across the sky within range; as my gun roared out
+the birds would whirl to the ground like feathered bombs
+or climb higher with frightened quacks if the shot went
+wild. An hour before dark the brahminy ducks began to
+come in. We could hear their melodious plaintive calls
+long before we could see the birds, and we flattened ourselves
+out in the grass and mud. Soon a thin, black line
+would streak the sky, and as they drew nearer, Yvette
+would draw such seductive notes from a tiny horn of
+wood and bone that the flock would swing and dive toward
+us in a rush of flashing wings. When we could see
+the brown bodies right above our heads I would sit up
+and bang away.</p>
+
+<p>Now and then a big white goose would drop into the
+pond or an ibis flap lazily overhead, seeming to realize
+that it had nothing to fear from the prostrate bodies
+which spat fire at other birds. The stillness of the marsh
+was absolute save for the voices of the water fowl mingled
+in the wild, sweet clamor so dear to the heart of
+every sportsman. As the day began to die, hung about
+with ducks and geese, we walked slowly back across the
+rice fields, to the yellow fires before our tents. It was
+our last camp for the year and, as if to bid us farewell as
+we journeyed toward the tropics, the peaks of the great
+Snow Mountain far to the north, had draped themselves
+in a gorgeous silver mantle and glistened against a sky
+of lavender and gold like white cathedral spires.</p>
+
+<p>On January 3, we camped early in the afternoon on a
+beautiful little plain beside a spring overhung with giant
+trees at the head of Erh Hai, or Ta-li Fu Lake, which is
+thirty miles long. The fields and marshes were alive
+with ducks, geese, cranes, and lapwings, and we had a
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_200">- 200 -</span>
+glorious day of sport over decoys and on the water before
+we went on to Ta-li Fu.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Evans was about to leave for a long business trip
+to the south of the province and we took possession of a
+pretty temple just within the north gate of the city.
+Here we read a great accumulation of mail and learned
+that a thousand pounds of supplies which we had ordered
+from Hongkong had just arrived.</p>
+
+<p>Through the good offices of Mr. Howard Page, manager
+of the Standard Oil Company of Yün-nan Fu, their
+passage through Tonking had been facilitated, and he
+had dispatched the boxes by caravan to Ta-li Fu. Mr.
+Page rendered great assistance to the Expedition in
+numberless ways, and to him we owe our personal thanks
+as well as those of the American Museum of Natural
+History.</p>
+
+<p>All the servants except our faithful Wu left at Ta-li
+Fu but, with the aid of Mr. Hanna, we obtained a much
+better personnel for the trip to the Burma frontier. The
+cook, who was one of Mr. Hanna's converts, was an especially
+fine fellow and proved to be as energetic and
+competent as the other had been lazy and helpless.</p>
+
+<p>Our work in the north had brought us a collection of
+thirteen hundred mammals, as well as several hundred
+birds, much material for habitat groups, and a splendid
+series of photographic records in Paget color plates,
+black and white negatives, and motion picture film. But
+what was of first importance, we had covered an enormous
+extent of diverse country and learned much about
+the distribution of the fauna of northern Yün-nan. The
+thirteen hundred mammals of our collection were taken
+in a more or less continuous line across six tremendous
+mountain ranges, and furnish an illuminating cross section
+of the entire region from Ta-li Fu, north to Chung-tien,
+and west to the Mekong River.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" id="img_f200a" style="width: 366px;">
+ <img src="images/img_f200a.png" width="366" height="286" alt="" />
+ <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">The Temple in which We Camped at Ta-li Fu</span></div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" id="img_f200b" style="width: 365px;">
+ <img src="images/img_f200b.png" width="365" height="285" alt="" />
+ <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">A Crested Muntjac</span></div>
+</div>
+
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_201">- 201 -</span></p>
+
+<p>It is apparent that in this part of the province, which
+is all within one "life zone" even the smallest mammals
+are widely spread and that the principal factor in determining
+distribution is the flora. Neither the highest
+mountain ridges nor such deep swift rivers as the
+Yangtze and the Mekong appear to act as effective
+barriers to migration, and as long as the vegetation
+remains constant, the fauna changes but little.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_202">- 202 -</span></p>
+
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXV">CHAPTER XXV</h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class="caption3">MISSIONARIES WE HAVE KNOWN</p>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">During</span> our work in Fukien Province and in various
+parts of Yün-nan we came into intimate personal contact
+with a great many missionaries; indeed every traveler in
+the interior of China will meet them unless he purposely
+avoids doing so. But the average tourist seldom sees the
+missionary in his native habitat because, for the most
+part, he lives and works where the tourist does not go.</p>
+
+<p>Nevertheless, that does not prevent the coastwise
+traveler from carrying back with him from the East a
+very definite impression of the missionary, which he has
+gained on board ships or in Oriental clubs where he hears
+him "damned with faint praise." Almost unconsciously
+he adopts the popular attitude just as he enlarges his
+vocabulary to include "pidgin English" and such unfamiliar
+phrases as "tiffin," "bund" and "cumshaw."</p>
+
+<p>This chapter is not a brief for the missionary, but
+simply a matter of fair play. We feel that in justice
+we ought to present our observations upon this subject,
+which is one of very general interest, as impartially as
+upon any phase of our scientific work. But it should be
+distinctly understood that we are writing <i>only</i> of those
+persons whom we met and lived with, and whose work
+we had an opportunity to know and to see; <i>we are not
+attempting generalizations on the accomplishments of
+missionaries in any other part of China</i>.</p>
+
+<p>There are three charges which we have heard most
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_203">- 203 -</span>
+frequently brought against the missionary: that he
+comes to the East because he can live better and more
+luxuriously than he can at home; that he often engages
+in lucrative trade with the natives; and that he accomplishes
+little good, either religious or otherwise. It is
+said that his converts are only "rice Christians," and
+treaty-port foreigners have often warned us in this
+manner, "Don't take Christian servants; they are more
+dishonest and unreliable than any others."</p>
+
+<p>It is often true that the finest house in a Chinese town
+will be that of the resident missionary. In Yen-ping the
+mission buildings are imposing structures, and are placed
+upon a hill above and away from the rest of the city.
+Any white person who has traveled in the interior of
+China will remember the airless, lightless, native houses,
+opening, as they all do, on filthy streets and reeking
+sewers and he will understand that in order to exist at all
+a foreigner must be somewhat isolated and live in a clean,
+well-ventilated house.</p>
+
+<p>Every missionary in China employs servants—many
+more servants than he could afford at home. So does
+every other foreigner, whatever his vocation. There is
+no such thing in China as the democracy of the West,
+and the missionary's status in the community demands
+that certain work in his house be done by servants; otherwise
+he and his family would be placed on a level with
+the coolie class and the value of his words and deeds be
+discounted. But the chief reason is that the missionary's
+wife almost always has definite duties to which
+she could not attend if she were not relieved from some
+of the household cares. She leads in work among the
+women of the community by organizing clubs and "Mutual
+Improvement Societies" and in teaching in the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_204">- 204 -</span>
+schools or hospitals where young men and women are
+learning English as an asset to medical work among
+their own people. Servants are unbelievably cheap.
+While we were in Foochow a cook received $8.50
+(gold) per month, a laundryman $1.75 (gold) per
+month, and other wages were in proportion.</p>
+
+<p>In Fukien Province the missionaries receive two
+months' vacation. Anyone who has lived through a
+Fukien summer in the interior of the province will know
+why the missionaries are given this vacation. If they
+were not able to leave the deadly heat and filth and disease
+of the native cities for a few weeks every year,
+there would be no missionaries to carry on the work.
+The business man can surround himself with innumerable
+comforts both in his home and in his office which
+the missionary cannot afford and, during the summer,
+life is not only made possible thereby but even pleasant.</p>
+
+<p>Yen-ping is eight days' travel from Foochow up the
+Min River and it is by no means the most remote station
+in the province. Very few travelers reach these places
+during the year and the white inhabitants are almost isolated.
+Miss Mabel Hartford lives alone at Yuchi and at
+one time she saw only one foreigner in eight months.
+Miss Cordelia Morgan is the sole foreign resident of
+Chu-hsuing Fu, a large Chinese city six days from
+Yün-nan Fu. In Ta-li Fu, Reverend William J. Hanna,
+his wife and two other women, are fourteen days' ride
+from the nearest foreign settlement. In Li-chiang, Reverend
+and Mrs. A. Kok and their three small children
+live with two women missionaries. They are twenty-one
+days' travel from a doctor, and for four years previous
+to our visit they had not seen a white woman.</p>
+
+<p>These are some instances of missionaries whom we met
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_205">- 205 -</span>
+in China who have voluntarily exiled themselves to remote
+places where they expect to spend their entire lives
+surrounded by an indifferent if not hostile population.
+Can anyone possibly believe that they have chosen this
+life because it is easier or more luxurious than that at
+home?</p>
+
+<p>Some of the men whom we met had left lucrative business
+positions to take up medical or evangelistic work in
+China where their compensation is pitifully small—not
+one-third of the salary they were commanding at home.
+We did not meet any missionaries who were engaging
+in trade with the natives even though in some places
+there were excellent business opportunities.</p>
+
+<p>Consider the doctors as examples of the civilizing influences
+which missionaries bring with them. We saw
+them in various parts of China doing a magnificent wort
+Dr. Bradley has established a great leper hospital at
+Paik-hoi where these human outcasts are receiving the
+latest and most scientific treatment and beginning to
+look at life with a new hope. In Yen-ping, at the time
+of the rebellion, we saw Dr. Trimble working hour after
+hour over wounded and broken men without a thought of
+rest. In Yün-nan Fu, Dr. Thompson's hospital was
+filled with patients suffering from almost every known
+disease. In Ta-li Fu we saw Mr. Hanna and his wife
+dispensing medicines and treating the minor ills of patients
+waiting by the dozen, the fees received being not
+enough to pay for the cost of the medicines. Why is
+it that every traveling foreigner in the interior of China
+is supposed to be able to cure diseases? Certainly an
+important reason is because of the work done by the
+medical missionaries who have penetrated to the farthest
+corners of the most remote provinces.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_206">- 206 -</span></p>
+
+<p>Aside from their medical work, missionaries are in
+many instances the real pioneers of western civilization.
+They bring to the people new standards of living, both
+morally and physically. They open schools and emancipate
+the Chinese children in mind and body. They fight
+the barbarous customs of foot binding and the killing
+and selling of girl babies. Until recent years it was
+not unusual to meet the village "baby peddler" with
+from two to six tiny infants peddling his "goods" from
+village to village. Not many years ago such a man
+appeared before the mission compound at Ngu-cheng
+(Fukien) with four babies in his basket. Three of
+these had expired from exposure and the kerosene oil
+which had been poured down their throats to stupefy
+them and drown their cries. The fourth was purchased
+by the wife of the native preacher for ten cents in order
+to save its life. This child was reared and has since
+graduated from the mission schools with credit. In
+Foochow a stone tablet bearing the following inscription
+stands beside a stagnant pool: "Hereafter the
+throwing of babies into this pool will be punished by
+law." This was a result of the work of the missionaries.</p>
+
+<p>Their task is by no means easy and, as Mr. Hanna
+once remarked, "Yün-nan Province has broken the heart
+of more than one missionary." The Chinese do not understand
+their point of view, and it is difficult to make
+them see it. A Chinaman is a rank materialist and pure
+altruism does not enter into his scheme of life. As a rule
+he has but two thoughts, his stomach and his cash bag.
+It is well-nigh impossible to make him realize that the
+missionary has not come with an ulterior motive—if not
+to engage in trade, perhaps as a spy for his government.
+Others believe that it is because China is so vastly
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_207">- 207 -</span>
+superior to the rest of the world that the missionaries wish
+to live there. Eventually the suspicions of the natives
+become quieted and they accept the missionary at some
+part of his true worth.</p>
+
+<p>At the time of the rebellion in Yen-ping we saw
+Harry Caldwell, Mr. Bankhardt and Dr. Trimble save
+the lives of hundreds of people and the city from partial
+destruction because the Chinese officers of the opposing
+forces would trust the missionaries when they would
+not trust each other.</p>
+
+<p>An excellent piece of practical missionary work was
+done in Fukien Province, not long after our visit there.
+As we have related in Chapter III, several large bands
+of brigands were established in the hills about Yuchi.
+Brigandage began there in the following way. During
+a famine when the people were on the verge of starvation,
+a wealthy farmer, Su Ek by name, decided to do
+his share in relieving conditions by offering for sale a
+quantity of rice which he had accumulated. He approached
+another man of similar wealth who agreed
+with him to sell his grain at a reasonable price. Su Ek
+accordingly disposed of his rice to the suffering people
+and, when he had remaining only enough to sustain his
+own family until the following harvest, he sent the
+peasants to the second man who had also agreed to
+dispose of his grain.</p>
+
+<p>This farmer refused to sell at the stipulated price,
+and the people, angered at his treachery, looted his
+sheds. He immediately went to Foochow and reported
+to the governor that there was a band of brigands abroad
+in Yuchi County under the leadership of Su Ek, and
+that they had robbed and plundered his property.</p>
+
+<p>Without warning a company of soldiers swooped
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_208">- 208 -</span>
+down upon the community and arrested a number of
+men whose names the informer had given. Su Ek made
+his escape to the hills but he was pursued as a brigand
+chief, and was later joined by other farmers who had
+been similarly persecuted. Unable to return to their
+homes on pain of death they were forced to rob in order
+to live.</p>
+
+<p>Su Ek and others were finally decoyed to Foochow
+upon the promise that their lives would be spared if
+they would induce their band to surrender. They met
+the conditions but the government officials broke faith
+and the men were executed. Similar attempts were
+made to enter into negotiations with the brigands and
+in 1915 two hundred were trapped and beheaded after
+pardons had been promised them. Naturally the robbers
+refused to trust the government officials again.</p>
+
+<p>The months which elapsed between this act of treachery
+and the spring of 1916, were filled with innumerable
+outrages. Many townships were completely devastated,
+either by the bandits or the Chinese soldiers.
+Little will ever be known of what actually took place
+under the guise of settling brigandage, behind the
+mountains which separate Yuchi from the outer world.
+It is well that it should not be known.</p>
+
+<p>During the spring of 1916 a missionary visited Yuchi.
+Business called him outside the city wall and just beyond
+the west gate he saw the bodies of ten persons who
+had that day been executed. Among these were two
+children, brothers, the sons of a man who was reported
+to have "sold rice to the brigands." The smaller child
+had wept and pleaded to be permitted to kneel beside
+his older brother further up in the row. He was too
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_209">- 209 -</span>
+small to realize what it all meant but he wanted to die
+beside his brother.</p>
+
+<p>In the middle of the field lay a man whose head was
+partly severed from his body and who had been shot
+through and through by the soldiers. He was lying
+upon his back in the broiling sun pleading for a cup of
+tea or for someone to put him out of his misery. The
+missionary learned the man's story. It appeared that
+years ago a law suit in which his father had been concerned
+had been decided in his favor. In order to
+square the score between the clans, the son of the man
+who had lost the suit had reported that he had seen this
+man carrying rice to the brigands. He had been arrested
+by the soldiers, partially killed, and left to lie in
+the glaring sun from nine o'clock in the morning until
+dark suffering the agonies of crucifixion. Not one
+of those who heard his moans dared to moisten the
+parched lips with tea lest he too be executed for having
+administered to a brigand.</p>
+
+<p>The missionary returned to the city that night vowing
+that he would make a recurrence of such a thing
+impossible or he would leave China. He took up the
+matter with the authorities in Peking in a quiet way
+and later with the military governor in Foochow. He
+was well known to the brigands by reputation and visited
+several of the chiefs in their strongholds. They
+declared that they had confidence in him but none in the
+government or its representatives. It was only after
+assuming full responsibility for any treachery that the
+brigands agreed to discuss terms.</p>
+
+<p>Upon invitation to accompany him to the 24th Township,
+the missionary was escorted out to civilization by
+twenty-five picked men to whom the chief had entrusted
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_210">- 210 -</span>
+an important charge. As the group neared the township
+the missionary sent word ahead to the commander
+of the northern soldiers to prepare to receive the
+brigands.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" id="seal" style="width: 262px;">
+ <img src="images/seal.png" width="262" height="373" alt="" />
+ <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">Seal of a Pardoned Brigand.</span></div>
+</div>
+
+<p>As the twenty-five bandits appeared upon the summit
+of a hill overlooking the city, soldiers could be seen
+forming into squads outside the barracks. Instantly
+the brigands halted, snapped back the bolts of their
+rifles, and threw in shells. The missionary realized that
+they suspected treachery and turning about he said, "I
+am the guarantee for your lives. If a short is fired kill
+me first."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" id="img_f210a" style="width: 370px;">
+ <img src="images/img_f210a.png" width="370" height="285" alt="" />
+ <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">The South Gate at Yung-chang</span></div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" id="img_f210b" style="width: 367px;">
+ <img src="images/img_f210b.png" width="367" height="286" alt="" />
+ <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">A Chinese Bride Returning to Her Mother's
+Home at New Year's</span></div>
+</div>
+
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_211">- 211 -</span></p>
+
+<p>With two loaded guns at his back and accompanied
+by the brigands he marched into the city, where they
+were received by the officials with all the punctilious
+ceremony so dear to the heart of the Chinese. It had
+been a dangerous half hour for the missionary. If a
+rifle had been fired by mistake, and Chinese are always
+shooting when they themselves least expect to, he would
+have been instantly killed.</p>
+
+<p>This conference, and others which followed, resulted
+in several hundred pardons being distributed to
+the brigands by the missionary himself. The men
+then returned to their abandoned homes and again took
+up their lives as respectable farmers. Thus the reign
+of terror in this portion of the province was ended
+through the efforts of one courageous man. It is such
+applied Christianity that has made us respect the missionary
+and admire his work.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_212">- 212 -</span></p>
+
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXVI">CHAPTER XXVI</h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class="caption3">CHINESE NEW YEAR AT YUNG-CHANG</p>
+
+<p class="caption4"><i>Y. B. A.</i></p>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">The</span> last half of the expedition began January 18
+when we left Ta-li Fu with a caravan of thirty miles for
+Yung-chang, eight days' travel to the south. The <i>mafus</i>
+although they had promised faithfully to come "at daylight"
+did not arrive until nearly noon and in consequence
+it was necessary to camp at Hsia-kuan at the
+foot of the lake.</p>
+
+<p>We improved our time there in hunting about for
+skins and finally purchased two fine leopards and a tiger.
+The latter had been brought from the Tonking frontier.
+There were a number of Tibetans wandering about the
+market place and in the morning a caravan of at least
+two hundred horses followed by twenty or thirty Tibetans,
+passed into the city while it was yet gray dawn.
+They were bringing tea from P'u-erh and S'su-mao in
+the south of the province and although they had already
+been nearly a month upon their journey there was still
+many long weeks of travel before them ere they reached
+the wind-blown steppes of their native land.</p>
+
+<p>The trip to Yung-chang proved uninteresting and uneventful.
+We crossed a succession of dry, thinly forested
+mountains from 7,000 to 8,000 feet high which near their
+summits were often clothed with a thick growth of rhododendron
+trees. The beautiful red flowers flashed like
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_213">- 213 -</span>
+fire balls among the green leaves, peach trees were in
+full blossom and in some spots the dry hills seemed
+about to break forth in the full glory of their spring
+verdure. We crossed the Mekong near a village called
+Shia-chai on a picturesque chain suspension bridge of a
+type which is not unusual in the southern and western
+part of the province. Several heavy iron chains are
+firmly fastened to huge rock piers on opposite sides of
+the river and the roadway formed by planks laid upon
+them. Although the bridge shakes and swings in a
+rather alarming manner when a caravan is crossing, it
+is perfectly safe if not too heavily loaded.</p>
+
+<p>In the afternoon of January 21, we rode down the
+mountain to the great Yung-chang plain, and for two
+hours trotted over a hard dirt road. The plain is
+eighteen miles long by six miles wide and except for its
+scattered villages, is almost entirely devoted to paddy
+fields. The city itself includes about five thousand
+houses. It is exceedingly picturesque and is remarkable
+for its long, straight, and fairly clean streets which contrast
+strongly with those of the usual Chinese town. At
+the west, but still within the city walls, is a picturesque
+wooded hill occupied almost exclusively by temples.</p>
+
+<p>We ourselves camped between two ponds in the courtyard
+of a large and exceptionally clean temple just outside
+the south gate of the city. It was the Chinese New
+Year and Wu told us that for several days at least it
+would be impossible to obtain another caravan or expect
+the natives to do any work whatever. It was a very
+pleasant place in which to stay although we chafed at the
+enforced delay, but we made good use of our time in
+photographing and developing motion picture film, collecting
+birds and making various excursions.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_214">- 214 -</span></p>
+
+<p>Chinese New Year is always interesting to a foreigner
+and at Yung-chang we saw many of the customs attending
+its celebration. It is a time of feasting and merry
+making and no native, if he can possibly avoid it, will
+work on that day. Chinese families almost always live
+under one roof but should any male member be absent at
+this season the circumstances must be exceptional to prevent
+him from returning to his home.</p>
+
+<p>It is customary, too, for brides to revisit their mother's
+house at New Year's. On our way to Yung-chang and
+for several days after leaving the city, we were continually
+passing young women mounted on mules or horses
+and accompanied by servants returning to their homes.
+New clothes are a leading feature of this season and the
+dresses of the brides and young matrons were usually
+of the most unexpected hues for, according to our conception
+of color, the Chinese can scarcely be counted conspicuous
+for their good taste. Purple and blue, orange
+and red, pink and lavender clash distressingly, but are
+worn with inordinate pride.</p>
+
+<p>These visits are not an unalloyed pleasure to the
+bride's family. Dr. Smith says in "Chinese Characteristics":</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p>When she goes to her mother's home, she goes on a strictly
+business basis. She takes with her it may be a quantity of
+sewing for her husband's family, which the wife's family must
+help her get through with. She is accompanied on each of
+these visits by as many of her children as possible, both to
+have her take care of them and to have them out of the way
+when she is not at hand to look after them, and most especially
+to have them fed at the expense of the family of the
+maternal grandmother for as long a time as possible. In
+regions where visits of this sort are frequent, and where there
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_215">- 215 -</span>
+are many daughters in a family, their constant raids on the
+old home are a source of perpetual terror to the whole family,
+and a serious tax on the common resources.<a id="FNanchor_6" href="#Footnote_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_6" href="#FNanchor_6" class="label">[6]</a> "Chinese Characteristics," by Arthur H. Smith, p. 200.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<p>Religious rites and ceremonies form a conspicuous
+part in the New Year's celebration. At this time the
+"Kitchen God," according to current superstition, returns
+to heaven to render an account of the household's
+behavior. The wily Chinese, however, first rubs the
+lips of the departing deity with candy in order to
+"sweeten" his report of any evil which he may have witnessed
+during the year.</p>
+
+<p>Usually all the members of the family gather before
+the ancestral tablets, or should these be lacking as
+among many of the laboring classes, a scroll with a part
+of the genealogy is displayed and the spirits of the departed
+are appeased and honored by the burning of incense
+and the mumbling of incantations. While strict
+attention is paid to the religious observance to the dead,
+at New Year's the most punctilious ceremony is rendered
+to the living.</p>
+
+<p>After the family have paid their respects to one another
+the younger male members go from house to
+house "kowtowing" to the elders who are there to receive
+them. The following days are devoted to visits
+to relatives living in the neighboring towns and villages,
+and this continues, an endless routine, until fourteen
+days later the Feast of the Lanterns puts an end
+to the "epoch of national leisure."</p>
+
+<p>The Chinese are inveterate gamblers and at New
+Year's they turn feverishly to this form of amusement
+which is almost their only one. But they also have to
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_216">- 216 -</span>
+think seriously about paying their debts for it is absolutely
+necessary for all classes and conditions of men to
+meet their obligations at the end of the year.</p>
+
+<p>Almost everyone owes money in China. According
+to the clan system an individual having surplus cash
+is obliged to lend it (though at a high rate of interest)
+to any members of his family in need of help. However,
+a Chinaman never pays cash unless absolutely
+obliged to and almost never settles a debt until he has
+been dunned repeatedly.</p>
+
+<p>The activity displayed at New Year's is ludicrous.</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p>Each separate individual [says Dr. Smith] is engaged in
+the task of trying to chase down the men who owe money to him,
+and compel them to pay up, and at the same time in trying to
+avoid the persons who are struggling to track him down and
+corkscrew from him the amount of his indebtedness to them!
+The dodges and subterfuges to which each is obliged to resort,
+increase in complexity and number with the advance of the season,
+until at the close of the month, the national activity is
+at fever heat. For if a debt is not secured then, it will go
+over till a new year, and no one knows what will be the status
+of a claim which has actually contrived to cheat the annual
+Day of Judgment. In spite of the excellent Chinese habit of
+making the close of a year a grand clearing-house for all debts,
+Chinese human nature is too much for Chinese custom, and
+there are many of these postponed debts which are a grief
+of mind to many a Chinese creditor.</p>
+
+<p>The Chinese are at once the most practical and the most
+sentimental of the human race. New Year mist not be violated
+by duns for debts, and the debts must be collected New
+Year though it be. For this reason one sometimes sees an urgent
+creditor going about early on the first day of the year
+carrying a lantern looking for his creditor [= debtor]. His
+artificial light shows that by a social fiction the sun has not yet
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_217">- 217 -</span>
+risen, it is still yesterday and the debt can still be claimed. . . .</p>
+
+<p>We have but to imagine the application of the principles
+which we have named, to the whole Chinese Empire, and we
+get new light upon the nature of the Chinese New Year festivities.
+They are a time of rejoicing, but there is no rejoicing
+so keen as that of a ruined debtor, who has succeeded by shrewd
+devices in avoiding the most relentless of his creditors and
+has thus postponed his ruin for at least another twelve months.</p>
+
+<p>For, once past the narrow strait at the end of the year,
+the debtor finds himself again in the broad and peaceful waters,
+where he cannot be molested. Even should his creditors
+meet him on New Year's day, there could be no possibility
+of mentioning the fact of the previous day's disgraceful flight
+and concealment, or indeed of alluding to business at all, for
+this would not be "good form" and to the Chinese "Good Form"
+(otherwise known as custom), is the chief national divinity.<a id="FNanchor_7" href="#Footnote_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_7" href="#FNanchor_7" class="label">[7]</a> "Village Life in China," by Arthur H. Smith, 1907,
+pp. 208-209.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+<p>Yung-chang appears to be almost entirely inhabited
+by Chinese and in no part of the province did we see
+foot-binding more in evidence. Practically every
+woman and girl, young or old, regardless of her station
+in life was crippled in this brutal way. The women
+wear long full coats with flaring skirts which hang
+straight from their shoulders to their knees. When the
+trousers are tightly wrapped about their shrunken ankles,
+they look in a side view exactly like huge umbrellas.</p>
+
+<p>One day we visited a cave thirty <i>li</i> north of the city
+where we hoped to find new bats. A beautiful little
+temple has been built over the entrance to the cavern
+which does not extend more than forty or fifty feet into
+the rock. But twenty <i>li</i> south of Yung-chang, just beyond
+the village of A-shih-wo, there is an enormous cave
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_218">- 218 -</span>
+which is reported to extend entirely through the hill.
+Whether or not this is true we can not say for although
+we explored it in part we did not reach the end. The
+central corridor is about thirty feet wide and at least
+sixty or seventy high. We followed the main gallery
+for a long distance, and turned back at a branch which
+led off at a sharp angle. We were not equipped with
+sufficient candles to pursue the exploration more extensively
+and did not have time to visit it again. The
+cave contained some beautiful stalactites of considerable
+size, but the limestone was a dull lead color. We
+found only one bat and these animals appear not to
+have used it extensively since there was little sign upon
+the floor.</p>
+
+<p>At Yung-chang we saw water buffaloes for the first
+time in Yün-nan but found them to be in universal use
+farther to the south and west. The huge brutes are as
+docile as a kitten in the hands of the smallest native child
+but they do not like foreigners and discretion is the better
+part of valor where they are concerned.</p>
+
+<p>Water buffaloes are only employed for work in the
+rice fields but Chinese cows are used as burden bearers
+in this part of the province. Such caravans travel
+much more slowly than do mule trains although the animals
+are not loaded as heavily. Two or three of the
+leading cows usually carry upon their backs large bells
+hung in wooden frameworks and the music is by no
+means unmelodious when heard at a distance. Marco
+Polo, the great Venetian traveler, refers to Yung-chang
+as "Vochang." His account of a battle which
+was fought in its vicinity in the year 1272 between the
+King of Burma and Bengal and one of Kublai Khan's
+generals is so interesting that I am quoting it below:</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_219">- 219 -</span></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p>When the king of Mien [Burma] and Bangala [Bengal],
+in India, who was powerful in the number of his subjects, in
+extent of territory, and in wealth, heard that an army of Tartars
+had arrived at Vochang [Yung-chang] he took the resolution
+of advancing immediately to attack it, in order that by
+its destruction the grand khan should be deterred from again
+attempting to station a force upon the borders of his dominions.
+For this purpose he assembled a very large army, including
+a multitude of elephants (an animal with which his
+country abounds), upon whose backs were placed battlements
+or castles, of wood, capable of containing to the number of
+twelve or sixteen in each. With these, and a numerous army
+of horse and foot, he took the road to Vochang, where the grand
+khan's army lay, and encamping at no great distance from it,
+intended to give his troops a few days of rest.</p>
+
+<p>As soon as the approach of the king of Mien, with so great
+a force, was known to Nestardin, who commanded the troops of
+the grand khan, although a brave and able officer, he felt much
+alarmed, not having under his orders more than twelve thousand
+men (veterans, indeed, and valiant soldiers); whereas the
+enemy had sixty thousand, besides the elephants armed as has
+been described. He did not, however, betray any sign of apprehension,
+but descending into the plain of Vochang, took a
+position in which his flank was covered by a thick wood of large
+trees, whither, in case of a furious charge by the elephants,
+which his troops might not be able to sustain, they could retire,
+and from thence, in security, annoy them with their arrows....</p>
+
+<p>Upon the king of Mien's learning that the Tartars had descended
+into the plain, he immediately put his army in motion,
+took up his ground at the distance of about a mile from the
+enemy, and made a disposition of his force, placing the elephants
+in the front, and the cavalry and infantry, in two extended
+wings, in their rear, but leaving between them a considerable
+interval. Here he took his own station, and
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_220">- 220 -</span>
+proceeded to animate his men and encourage them to fight valiantly,
+assuring them of victory, as well from the superiority
+of their numbers, being four to one, as from their formidable
+body of armed elephants, whose shock the enemy, who had
+never before been engaged with such combatants, could by
+no means resist. Then giving orders for sounding a prodigious
+number of warlike instruments, he advanced boldly with his
+whole army towards that of the Tartars, which remained firm,
+making no movement, but suffering them to approach their
+entrenchments.</p>
+
+<p>They then rushed out with great spirit and the utmost eagerness
+to engage; but it was soon found that the Tartar horses,
+unused to the sight of such huge animals, with their castles,
+were terrified, and by wheeling about endeavored to fly; nor
+could their riders by any exertions restrain them, whilst the
+king, with the whole of his forces, was every moment gaining
+ground. As soon as the prudent commander perceived this
+unexpected disorder, without losing his presence of mind, he
+instantly adopted the measure of ordering his men to dismount
+and their horses to be taken into the wood, where they
+were fastened to the trees.</p>
+
+<p>When dismounted, the men without loss of time, advanced
+on foot towards the line of elephants, and commenced a brisk
+discharge of arrows; whilst, on the other side, those who were
+stationed in the castles, and the rest of the king's army, shot
+volleys in return with great activity; but their arrows did not
+make the same impression as those of the Tartars, whose bows
+were drawn with a stronger arm. So incessant were the discharges
+of the latter, and all their weapons (according to the
+instructions of their commander) being directed against the
+elephants, these were soon covered with arrows, and, suddenly
+giving way, fell back upon their own people in the rear, who
+were thereby thrown into confusion. It soon became impossible
+for their drivers to manage them, either by force or address.
+Smarting under the pain of their wounds, and terrified
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_221">- 221 -</span>
+by the shouting of the assailants, they were no longer governable,
+but without guidance or control ran about in all directions,
+until at length, impelled by rage and fear, they rushed
+into a part of the wood not occupied by the Tartars. The
+consequence of this was, that from the closeness of the branches
+of large trees, they broke, with loud crashes, the battlements
+or castles that were upon their backs, and involved in the destruction
+those who sat upon them.</p>
+
+<p>Upon seeing the rout of the elephants the Tartars acquired
+fresh courage, and filing off by detachments, with perfect order
+and regularity, they remounted their horses, and joined
+their several divisions, when a sanguinary and dreadful combat
+was renewed. On the part of the king's troops there was no
+want of valor, and he himself went amongst the ranks entreating
+them to stand firm, and not to be alarmed by the accident
+that had befallen the elephants. But the Tartars by their
+consummate skill in archery, were too powerful for them, and
+galled them the more exceedingly, from their not being provided
+with such armor as was worn by the former.</p>
+
+<p>The arrows having been expended on both sides, the men
+grasped their swords and iron maces, and violently encountered
+each other. Then in an instant were to be seen many
+horrible wounds, limbs dismembered, and multitudes falling to
+the ground, maimed and dying; with such effusion of blood as
+was dreadful to behold. So great also was the clangor of
+arms, and such the shoutings and the shrieks, that the noise
+seemed to ascend to the skies. The king of Mien, acting as became
+a valiant chief, was present wherever the greatest danger
+appeared, animating his soldiers, and beseeching them to maintain
+their ground with resolution. He ordered fresh squadrons
+from the reserve to advance to the support of those that
+were exhausted; but perceiving at length that it was impossible
+any longer to sustain the conflict or to withstand the
+impetuosity of the Tartars, the greater part of his troops
+being either killed or wounded, and all the field covered with
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_222">- 222 -</span>
+the carcasses of men and horses, whilst those who survived were
+beginning to give way, he also found himself compelled to take
+to flight with the wreck of his army, numbers of whom were
+afterwards slain in the pursuit....</p>
+
+<p>The Tartars having collected their force after the slaughter
+of the enemy, returned towards the wood into which the elephants
+had fled for shelter, in order to take possession of them,
+where they found that the men who had escaped from the overthrow
+were employed in cutting down trees and barricading
+the passages, with the intent of defending themselves. But
+their ramparts were soon demolished by the Tartars, who
+slew many of them, and with the assistance of the persons accustomed
+to the management of the elephants, they possessed
+themselves of these to the number of two hundred or more.
+From the period of this battle the grand khan has always
+chosen to employ elephants in his armies, which before that
+time he had not done. The consequences of the victory were,
+that he acquired possession of the whole of the territories of
+the king of Bangala and Mien, and annexed them to his dominions.<a id="FNanchor_8" href="#Footnote_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a></p>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote">
+
+<p><a id="Footnote_8" href="#FNanchor_8" class="label">[8]</a> "The Travels of Marco Polo the Venetian." Everyman's
+Library. J. M. Dent & Sons, Ltd., London; pp. 255-256.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_223">- 223 -</span></p>
+
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXVII">CHAPTER XXVII</h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class="caption3">TRAVELING TOWARD THE TROPICS</p>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">We</span> left Yung-chang with no regret on Monday,
+January 28. Our stay there would have been exceedingly
+pleasant under ordinary conditions but it was impossible
+not to chafe at the delay occasioned by the
+caravan. Traveling southward for two days over bare
+brown mountain-sides, their monotony unrelieved except
+by groves of planted pine and fir trees, we descended
+abruptly into the great subtropical valley at
+Shih-tien.</p>
+
+<p>Mile after mile this fertile plain stretches away in
+a succession of rice paddys and fields of sugar cane
+interspersed with patches of graceful bamboo, their summits
+drooping like enormous clusters of ostrich plumes;
+the air is warm and fragrant and the change from the
+surrounding hills is delightful. However, we were disappointed
+in the shooting for, although it appeared to
+be an ideal place for ducks and other water birds, we
+killed only five teal, and the great ponds were almost
+devoid of bird life. Even herons, so abundant in the
+north, were conspicuous by their absence and we saw
+no sheldrakes, geese, or mallards.</p>
+
+<p>At Shih-tien we camped in a beautiful temple yard
+on the outskirts of the town, and with Wu I returned
+to the village to inquire about shooting places. We
+seated ourselves in the first open tea house and within
+ten minutes more than a hundred natives had filled the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_224">- 224 -</span>
+room, overflowed through the door and windows, and
+formed a mass of pushing, crowding bodies which completely
+blocked the street outside. It was a simple way
+of getting all the village together and Wu questioned
+everyone who looked intelligent.</p>
+
+<p>We learned that shooting was to be found near Gen-kang,
+five days' travel south, and we returned to the temple
+just in time to receive a visit from the resident mandarin.
+He was a good-looking, intellectual man, with
+charming manners and one of the most delightful gentlemen
+whom we met in China.</p>
+
+<p>During his visit, and until dinner was over and we
+had retired to our tents, hundreds of men, women and
+children crowded into the temple yard to gaze curiously
+at us. After the gates had been closed they climbed
+the walls and sat upon the tiles like a flock of crows.
+Their curiosity was insatiable but not unfriendly and
+nowhere throughout our expedition did we find such
+extraordinary interest in our affairs as was manifested
+by the people in this immediate region. They were
+largely Chinese and most of them must have met foreigners
+before, yet their curiosity was much greater than
+that of any natives whom we knew were seeing white
+persons for the first time.</p>
+
+<p>Just before camping the next day we passed through
+a large village where we were given a most flattering
+reception. We had stopped to do some shooting and
+were a considerable distance behind the caravan. The
+<i>mafus</i> must have announced our coming, for the populace
+was out <i>en masse</i> to greet us and lined the streets
+three deep. It was a veritable triumphal entry and
+crowds of men and children followed us for half a
+mile outside the town, running beside our horses and
+staring with saucer-like eyes.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" id="img_f224a" style="width: 286px;">
+ <img src="images/img_f224a.png" width="286" height="364" alt="" />
+ <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">A Chinese Patriarch</span></div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" id="img_f224b" style="width: 285px;">
+ <img src="images/img_f224b.png" width="285" height="355" alt="" />
+ <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">Young China</span></div>
+</div>
+
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_225">- 225 -</span></p>
+
+<p>On the second day from Shih-tien we climbed a high
+mountain and wound down a sharp descent for about
+4,000 feet into a valley only 2,800 feet above sea level.
+We had been cold all day on the ridges exposed to a
+biting wind and had bundled ourselves into sweaters and
+coats over flannel shirts. After going down about 1,000
+feet we tied our coats to the saddle pockets, on the
+second thousand stripped off the sweaters, and for the
+remainder of the descent rode with sleeves rolled up
+and shirts open at the throat. We had come from mid-winter
+into summer in two hours and the change was
+most startling. It was as though we had suddenly
+ridden into an artificially heated building like the rooms
+for tropical plants at botanical gardens.</p>
+
+<p>Our camp was on a flat plain just above the river
+where we had a splendid view of the wide valley which
+was like the bottom of a well with high mountains rising
+abruptly on all sides. It was a place of strange contrasts.
+The bushes and trees were in full green foliage
+but the grass and paddy fields were dry and brown as
+in mid-winter. The thick trees at the base of the hills
+were literally alive with doves but there were few mammal
+runways and our traps yielded no results. That
+night a muntjac, the first we had heard, barked hoarsely
+behind the tents.</p>
+
+<p>The <i>yamen</i> "soldier" who accompanied us from Shih-tien
+delivered his official dispatch at the village (Ma-po-lo)
+which lies farther down the valley. The magistrate,
+who proved to be a Shan native, arrived soon
+after with ten or twelve men and we discovered that
+there was but one man in the village who spoke Chinese.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_226">- 226 -</span></p>
+
+<p>The magistrate at Ma-po-lo by no means wished to
+have the responsibility of our safety thrust upon him
+and consequently assured us that there were neither
+game nor hunters in this village. Although his anxiety
+to be rid of us was apparent, he was probably telling
+the truth, for the valley is so highly cultivated (rice),
+and the cover on the mountain-sides so limited, that it
+is doubtful if much game remains.</p>
+
+<p>In the morning the entire valley was filled with a
+dense white fog but we climbed out of it almost immediately,
+and by noon were back again in winter on
+the summits of the ridges. The country through which
+we passed <i>en route</i> to Gen-kang was similar to that
+which had oppressed us during the preceding week—cultivated
+valleys between high barren mountains relieved
+here and there by scattered groves of planted fir
+trees. It was a region utterly hopeless from a naturalist's
+standpoint and when we arrived at a large
+town near Gen-kang we were well-nigh discouraged.</p>
+
+<p>During almost a month of travel we had been guided
+by native information which without exception had
+proved worthless. It seemed useless to rely upon it further,
+and yet there was no other alternative, for none
+of the foreigners whom we had met in Yün-nan knew
+anything about this part of the province. We were certain
+to reach a tropical region farther south and the
+fact that there were a few sambur skins for sale in the
+market offered slight encouragement. These were said
+to come from a village called Meng-ting, "a little more
+far," to the tune of four or five days' travel, over on
+the Burma frontier.</p>
+
+<p>With gloom in our hearts, which matched that of
+the weather, we left in a pouring rain on February 6,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_227">- 227 -</span>
+to slip and splash southward through veritable rivers of
+mud for two long marches. In the afternoon of the
+second day the country suddenly changed. The trail
+led through a wide grassy valley, bordered by heavily
+forested hills, into a deep ravine. Along the banks of
+a clear stream the earth was soft and damp and the moss-covered
+logs and dense vegetation made ideal conditions
+for small mammalian life.</p>
+
+<p>We rode happily up the ravine and stood in a rocky
+gateway. At the right a green-clothed mountain rose
+out of a tangle of luxuriant vegetation; to the left wave
+after wave of magnificent forested ridges lost themselves
+in the low hung clouds; at our feet lay a beautiful valley
+filled with stately trees which spread into a thick
+green canopy overhead.</p>
+
+<p>We camped in a clearing just at the edge of the
+forest. While the tents were being pitched, I set a
+line of traps along the base of the opposite mountain
+and found a "runway" under almost every log. About
+eight o'clock I ran my traps and, with the aid of a
+lantern, stumbled about in the bushes and high grass,
+over logs and into holes. When I emptied my pockets
+there were fifteen mice, rats, shrews, and voles, representing
+seven species and <i>all new to our collection</i>. Heller
+brought in eight specimens and added two new species.
+We forthwith decided to stay right where we were
+until this "gold mine" had been exhausted.</p>
+
+<p>In the morning our traps were full of mammals and
+sixty-two were laid out on the table ready for skinning.
+The length, tail, hind foot, and ear of each specimen was
+first carefully measured in millimeters and recorded in
+the field catalogue and upon a printed label bearing our
+serial number; then an incision was made in the belly,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_228">- 228 -</span>
+the skin stripped off, poisoned with arsenic, stuffed with
+cotton, and sewed up. The animal was then pinned in
+position by the feet, nose, and tail in a shallow wooden
+tray which fitted in the collecting trunk.</p>
+
+<p>The specimens were put in the sun on every bright
+day until they were thoroughly dry and could be
+wrapped in cotton and packed in water-tight trunks or
+boxes. We have found that the regulation U. S. Army
+officer's fiber trunk makes an ideal collecting case. It
+measures thirty inches long by thirteen deep and sixteen
+inches wide and will remain quite dry in an ordinary
+rain but, of course, must not be allowed to stand in
+water. The skulls of all specimens, and the skeletons
+of some, are numbered like the skin, strung upon a wire,
+and dried in the sun. Also individuals of every species
+are injected and preserved in formalin for future anatomical
+study.</p>
+
+<p>Larger specimens are always salted and dried. As
+soon as the skin has been removed and cleaned of flesh
+and fat, salt is rubbed into every part of it and the hide
+rolled up. In the morning it is unwrapped, the water
+which has been extracted by the salt poured off, and
+the skin hung over a rope or a tree branch to dry. If
+it is not too hot and the air is dry, the skin may be kept
+in the shade to good advantage, but under ordinary field
+conditions it should be placed in the sun. Before it becomes
+too hard, the hide is rolled or folded into a
+convenient package hair side in, tied into shape and allowed
+to become "bone dry." In this condition it will
+keep indefinitely but requires constant watching, for the
+salt absorbs moisture from the air and alternate wetting
+and drying is fatal.</p>
+
+<p>We soon trained two of our Chinese boys to skin
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_229">- 229 -</span>
+both large and small animals and they became
+quite expert. They required constant watching, however,
+and after each hide had been salted either Mr. Heller or
+I examined it to make sure that it was properly treated.</p>
+
+<p>On our first day in camp we sent for natives to the
+village of Mu-cheng ten <i>li</i> distant. The men assured
+us that there were sambur, serow, and muntjac in the
+neighborhood, and they agreed to hunt. They had no
+dogs and were armed with crossbows, antiquated guns,
+and bows and arrows, but they showed us the skins of
+two sambur in proof of their ability to secure game.</p>
+
+<p>Like most of the other natives, with the exception
+of the Mosos on the Snow Mountain, these men had
+no definite plan in hunting. The first day I went out
+with them they indicated that we were to drive a hill
+not far from camp. Without giving me an opportunity
+to reach a position in front of them, they began to
+work up the hill, and I had a fleeting glimpse of a
+sambur silhouetted against the sky as it dashed over the
+summit.</p>
+
+<p>Two days later while I was out with ten other men
+who had a fairly good pack of dogs, the first party succeeded
+in killing a female sambur. The animal weighed
+at least five hundred pounds but they brought it to our
+camp and we purchased the skin for ten <i>rupees</i>. South
+of Gen-kang the money of the region, like all of Yün-nan
+for some distance from the Burma frontier, is the
+Indian <i>rupee</i> which equals thirty-three cents American
+gold in that part of the province adjoining Tonking,
+French Indo-China money is current.</p>
+
+<p>My Journal of February 8 tells of our life at this
+camp, which we called "Good Hope."</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_230">- 230 -</span></p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<p>The weather is delightful for the sun is just warm enough
+for comfort and the nights are clear and cold. How we do
+sleep! It seems hardly an hour from the time we go to bed
+until we hear Wu rousing the servants, and the crackle of the
+camp-fire outside the tent. We half dress in our sleeping bags
+and with chattering teeth dash for the fire to lace our high
+boots in its comfortable warmth.</p>
+
+<p>After breakfast when it is full daylight, my wife and I
+inspect the traps. The ground is white with frost and the
+trees and bushes are dressed in silver. Every trap holds an
+individual interest and we follow the line through the forest,
+resetting some, and finding new mammals in others. Yvette
+has conquered her feminine repugnance far enough to remove
+shrews or mice from the traps by releasing the spring and
+dropping them on to a broad green leaf, but she never touches
+them.</p>
+
+<p>We go back to meet the hunters and while I am away with
+the men, the lady of the camp works at her photography. I
+return in the late afternoon and after tea we wander through
+the woods together. It is the most delightful part of the day
+when the sun goes down and the shadows lengthen. We sit on
+a log in a small clearing where we can watch the upper
+branches of a splendid tree. It is the home of a great colony of
+red-bellied squirrels (<i>Callosciurus erythræus</i> subsp.) and
+after a few moments of silence we see a flash of brown along
+a branch, my gun roars out, and there is a thud upon the
+ground.</p>
+
+<p>Yvette runs to find the animal and ere the echoes have died
+away in the forest the gun bangs again. We have already
+shot a dozen squirrels from this tree and yet more are there.
+Sometimes a tiny, striped chipmunk (<i>Tamiops macclellandi</i>
+subsp.) will appear on the lower branches, searching the bark
+for grubs, and after he falls we have a long hunt to find him in
+the brown leaves. When it is too dark to see the squirrels, we
+wander slowly back to camp and eat a dinner of delicious
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_231">- 231 -</span>
+broiled deer steak in front of the fire; over the coffee we smoke
+and talk of the day's hunting until it is time to "run the traps."</p>
+
+<p>Of all the work we enjoy this most. With lanterns and a
+gun we pick our way among the trees until we strike the trail
+along which the traps are set. On the soft ground our feet
+are noiseless and, extinguishing the lanterns, we sit on a log
+to listen to the night sounds. The woods are full of life. Almost
+beside us there is a patter of tiny feet and a scurry among
+the dry leaves; a muntjac barks hoarsely on the opposite
+hillside, and a fox yelps behind us in the forest. Suddenly
+there is a sharp snap, a muffled squeal, and a trap a few yards
+away has done its work. Even in the tree tops the night life
+is active. Dead twigs drop to the ground with an unnatural
+noise, and soft-winged owls show black against the sky as they
+flit across an opening in the branches.</p>
+
+<p>We light the lanterns again and pass down the trail into
+a cuplike hollow. Here there are a dozen traps and already
+half of them are full. In one is a tiny brown shrew caught by
+the tail as he ran across the trap; another holds a veritable
+treasure, and at my exclamation of delight Yvette runs up excitedly.
+It is a rare Insectivore of the genus <i>Hylomys</i> and
+possibly a species new to science. We examine it beside the
+lantern, wrap it carefully in paper, and drop it into a pocket
+by itself.</p>
+
+<p>The next bit of cotton clings to a bush above a mossy log.
+The trap is gone and for ten minutes we hunt carefully over
+every inch of ground. Finally my wife discovers it fifteen feet
+away and stifles a scream for in it, caught by the neck and still
+alive, is a huge rat nearly two feet long; it too is a species
+which may prove new.</p>
+
+<p>When the last trap has been examined, we follow the trail
+to the edge of the forest and into the clearing where the tents
+glow in the darkness like great yellow pumpkins. Ours is
+delightfully warmed by the charcoal brazier and, stretched comfortably
+on the beds, we write our daily records or read Dickens
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_232">- 232 -</span>
+for half an hour. It is with a feeling of great contentment
+that we slip down into the sleeping bags and blow out the
+candles leaving the tent filled with the soft glow of the moonlight.</p>
+</div>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_233">- 233 -</span></p>
+
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXVIII">CHAPTER XXVIII</h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class="caption3">MENG-TING: A VILLAGE OF MANY TONGUES</p>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">During</span> the eight days in which we remained at the
+"Good Hope" camp, two hundred specimens comprising
+twenty-one species were added to our collection. Although
+the altitude was still 5,000 feet, the flora was
+quite unlike that of any region in which we had previously
+collected, and that undoubtedly was responsible
+for the complete change of fauna. We were on the very
+edge of the tropical belt which stretches along the Tonking
+and Burma frontiers in the extreme south and west
+of the province.</p>
+
+<p>It was already mid-February and if we were to work
+in the fever-stricken valleys below 2,000 feet, it was high
+time we were on the way southward. The information
+which we had obtained near Gen-kang had been supplemented
+by the natives of Mu-cheng, and we decided to
+go to Meng-ting as soon as possible.</p>
+
+<p>The first march was long and uneventful but at its
+end, from the summit of a high ridge, we could see a
+wide valley which we reached in the early morning of
+the second day. The narrow mountain trail abruptly
+left us on a jutting promontory and wandered uncertainly
+down a steep ravine to lose itself in a veritable
+forest of tree ferns and sword grass. The slanting rays
+of the sun drew long golden paths into the mysterious
+depths of the mist-filled valley. To the right a giant
+sentinel peak of granite rose gaunt and naked from out
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_234">- 234 -</span>
+the enveloping sea of green which swelled away to the
+left in huge ascending billows.</p>
+
+<p>We rested in our saddles until the faint tinkle of
+the bell on the leading mule announced the approach
+of the caravan and then we picked our way slowly down
+the steep trail between walls of tangled vegetation.
+In an hour we were breathing the moist warm air of
+the tropics and riding across a wide valley as level as a
+floor. The long stretches of rank grass, far higher than
+our heads, were broken by groves of feathery bamboos,
+banana palms, and splendid trees interlaced with tangled
+vines.</p>
+
+<p>Near the base of the mountains a Shan village nestled
+into the grass. The bamboo houses, sheltered by trees
+and bushes, were roofed in the shape of an overturned
+boat with thatch and the single street was wide and
+clean. Could this really be China? Verily, it was a
+different China from that we had seen before! It
+might be Burma, India, Java, but never China!</p>
+
+<p>Before the door of a tiny house sat a woman spinning.
+A real Priscilla, somewhat strange in dress to
+be sure and with a mouth streaked with betel nut, but
+Priscilla just the same. And in his proper place beside
+her stood John Alden. A pair of loose, baggy trousers,
+hitched far up over one leg to show the intricate
+tattoo designs beneath, a short coat, and a white turban
+completed John's attire, but he grasped a gun almost
+as ancient in design as that of his Pilgrim fathers. Priscilla
+kept her eyes upon the spinning wheel, but John's
+gaze could by no stretch of imagination be called ardent
+even before we appeared around a corner of the house
+and the pretty picture resolved into its rightful components—a
+surprised, but not unlovely Shan girl and
+a well-built, yellow-skinned native who stared with wide
+brown eyes And open mouth at what must have seemed
+to him the fancy of a disordered brain.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" id="img_f234a" style="width: 366px;">
+ <img src="images/img_f234a.png" width="366" height="284" alt="" />
+ <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">A Shan Village</span></div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" id="img_f234b" style="width: 366px;">
+ <img src="images/img_f234b.png" width="366" height="286" alt="" />
+ <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">A Shan Woman Spinning</span></div>
+</div>
+
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_235">- 235 -</span></p>
+
+<p>For into his village, filled with immemorial peace and
+quiet, where every day was exactly like the day before,
+had suddenly ridden two big men with white skins and
+blue eyes, and a little one with lots of hair beneath a
+broad sun helmet. And almost immediately the little one
+had jumped from the horse and pointed a black box with
+a shiny front at him and his Priscilla. At once, but
+without loss of dignity, Priscilla vanished into the house,
+but John Alden stood his ground, for a beautiful new
+tin can had been thrust into his hand and before he had
+really discovered what it was the little person had smiled
+at him and turned her attention to the charming street
+of his village. There the great water buffaloes lazily
+chewed their cuds standing guard over the tiny brown-skinned
+natives who played trustingly with the calves
+almost beneath their feet.</p>
+
+<p>Such was our invasion of the first Shan village we had
+ever seen, and regretfully we rode away across the plain
+between the walls of waving grass toward the Nam-ting
+River. Two canoes, each dug out of a single log, and
+tightly bound together, formed the ferry, but the packs
+were soon across the muddy stream and the mules were
+made to swim to the other bank. Shortly after leaving
+the ferry we emerged from the vast stretches of rank
+grass on to the open rice paddys which stretched away in
+a gently undulating plain from the river to the mountains.
+Strangely enough we saw no ducks or geese, but
+three great flocks of cranes (probably <i>Grus communis</i>)
+rose from the fields and wheeled in ever-widening spirals
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_236">- 236 -</span>
+above our heads until they were lost in the blue depths
+of the sky.</p>
+
+<p>Away in the distance we saw a wooded knoll with a
+few wisps of smoke curling above its summit, but not
+until we were well-nigh there did we realize that its beautiful
+trees sheltered the thatched roofs of Meng-ting.
+But this was only the "'residential section" of the village
+and below the knoll on the opposite side of a shallow
+stream lay the shops and markets.</p>
+
+<p>We camped on a dry rice dyke where a fringe of
+jungle separated us from the nearest house. As soon
+as the tents were up I announced our coming to the
+mandarin and requested an interview at five o'clock.
+Wu and I found the <i>yamen</i> to be a large well-built
+house, delightfully cool and exhibiting several foreign
+articles which evinced its proximity to Burma.</p>
+
+<p>We were received by a suave Chinese "secretary" who
+shortly introduced the mandarin—a young Shan not
+more than twenty years old who only recently had succeeded
+his late father as chief of the village. The boy
+was dressed in an exceedingly long frock coat, rather
+green and frayed about the elbows, which in combination
+with his otherwise typical native dress gave him a
+most extraordinary appearance.</p>
+
+<p>We soon discovered that the Chinese secretary who
+did all the talking was the "power behind the throne."
+He accepted my gift of a package of tea with great
+pleasure, but the information about hunting localities
+for which we asked was not forthcoming. He first said
+that he knew of a place where there were tiger and
+leopard, but that he did not dare to reveal it to us for
+we might be killed by the wild animals and he would be
+responsible for our deaths; bringing to his attention the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_237">- 237 -</span>
+fact that tigers had never been recorded from the Meng-ting
+region did not impress him in the slightest.</p>
+
+<p>It did tend to send him off on another track, however,
+and he next remarked that if he sent us to a place
+where the hunting was disappointing we probably would
+report him to the district mandarin. Assurances to the
+contrary had no effect. It was perfectly evident that he
+wished only to get us out of his district and thus relieve
+himself of the responsibility of our safety. During the
+conversation, which lasted more than an hour, the young
+Shan was not consulted and did not speak a word; he
+sat stolidly in his chair, hardly winking, and except for
+the constant supply of cigarettes which passed between
+his fingers there was no evidence that he even breathed.</p>
+
+<p>The interview closed with assurances from the Chinaman
+that he would make inquiries concerning hunting
+grounds and communicate with us in the morning. We
+returned to camp and half an hour later a party of natives
+arrived from the <i>yamen</i> bearing about one hundred
+pounds of rice, a sack of potatoes, two dozen eggs, three
+chickens, and a great bundle of fire wood. These were
+deposited in front of our tent as gifts from the mandarin.</p>
+
+<p>We were at a loss to account for such generosity until
+Wu explained that whenever a high official visited a
+village it was customary for the mandarin to supply his
+entire party with food during their stay. It would be
+quite polite to send back all except a few articles, however,
+for the supplies were levied from the inhabitants
+of the town. We kept the eggs and chickens, giving the
+<i>yamen</i> "runners" considerably more than their value in
+money, and they gratefully returned with the rice and
+potatoes.</p>
+
+<p>On the hill high above our camp was a large Shan
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_238">- 238 -</span>
+Buddhist monastery, bamboo walled and thatched with
+straw, and at sunset and daybreak a musical chant of
+childish voices floated down to us in the mist-filled valley.
+All day long tiny yellow-robed figures squatted on the
+mud walls about the temple like a flock of birds peering
+at us with bright round eyes. They were wild as hawks,
+these little priests and, although they sometimes left the
+shelter of their temple walls, they never ventured below
+the bushy hedge about our rice field.</p>
+
+<p>In the village we saw them often, wandering about
+the streets or sitting in yellow groups beneath the giant
+trees which threw a welcome shade over almost every
+house. They were not all children, and finely built
+youths or men so old that they seemed like wrinkled bits
+of lemon peel, passed to and fro to the temple on the hill.</p>
+
+<p>There is no dearth of priests, for every family in the
+village with male children is required to send at least
+one boy to live a part of his life under the tutelage of
+the Church. He must remain three years, and longer, if
+he wishes. The priests are fed by the monastery, and
+their clothing is not an important item of expenditure
+as it consists merely of a straw hat and a yellow robe.
+They lead a lazy, worthless life, and from their sojourn
+in religious circles they learn only indolence and idleness.</p>
+
+<p>The day following our arrival in Meng-ting the
+weekly market was held, and when Wu and I crossed
+the little stream to the business part of the village, we
+found ourselves in the midst of the most picturesque
+crowd of natives it has ever been my fortune to see. It
+was a group flashing with color, and every individual
+a study for an artist. There were blue-clad Chinese,
+Shans with tattooed legs, turbans of pink or white, and
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_239">- 239 -</span>
+Burmans dressed in brilliant purple or green, Las, yellow-skinned
+Lisos, flat-faced Palaungs, Was, and
+Kachins in black and red strung about with beads or
+shells. Long swords hung from the shoulders of those
+who did not carry a spear or gun, and the hilts of wicked
+looking daggers peeped from beneath their sashes.
+Every man carried a weapon ready for instant use.</p>
+
+<p>Nine tribes were present in the market that day and
+almost as many languages were being spoken. It was
+a veritable Babel and half the trading was done by signs.
+The narrow street was choked with goods of every kind
+spread out upon the ground: fruit, rice, cloth, nails,
+knives, swords, hats, sandals, skins, horns, baskets, mats,
+crossbows, arrows, pottery, tea, opium, and scores of
+other articles for food or household use.</p>
+
+<p>Dozens of natives were arriving and departing, bringing
+new goods or packing up their purchases; under
+open, thatched pavilions were silent groups of men gambling
+with cash or silver, and in the "tea houses" white-faced
+natives lay stretched upon the couches rolling
+"pills" of opium and oblivious to the constant stream of
+passers-by.</p>
+
+<p>It was a picturesque, ever changing group, a kaleidoscopic
+mass of life and color, where Chinese from civilized
+Canton drank, and gambled, and smoked with wild
+natives from the hills or from the depths of fever-stricken
+jungles.</p>
+
+<p>After one glimpse of the picture in the market I
+dashed back to camp to bring the "Lady of the Camera."
+On the way I met her, hot and breathless, half coaxing,
+half driving three bewildered young priests resplendent
+in yellow robes. All the morning she had been trying
+vainly to photograph a priest and had discovered these
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_240">- 240 -</span>
+splendid fellows when all her color plates had been exposed.
+She might have succeeded in bringing them to
+camp had I not arrived, but they suddenly lost courage
+and rushed away with averted faces.</p>
+
+<p>When the plate holders were all reloaded we hurried
+back to the market followed by two coolies with the
+cameras. Leaving Yvette to do her work alone I set
+up the cinematograph. Wu was with me and in less
+than a minute the narrow space in front of us was
+packed with a seething mass of natives. It was impossible
+to take a "street scene" for the "street" had suddenly
+disappeared. Making a virtue of necessity I focused
+the camera on the irregular line of heads and swung it
+back and forth registering a variety of facial expressions
+which it would be hard to duplicate. For some
+time it was impossible to bribe the natives to stand even
+for a moment, but after one or two had conquered their
+fear and been liberally rewarded, there was a rush for
+places. Wu asked several of the natives who could
+speak Chinese if they knew what we were doing but
+they all shook their heads. None of them had ever seen
+a camera or a photograph.</p>
+
+<p>The Kachin women were the most picturesque of all
+the tribes as well as the most difficult to photograph.
+Yvette was not able to get them at all, and I could do
+so only by strategy. When Wu discovered two or three
+squatting near their baskets on the ground I moved
+slowly up behind them keeping in the center of the
+crowd. After the "movie camera" was in position Wu
+suddenly "shooed" back the spectators and before the
+women realized what was happening they were registered
+on twenty-five or thirty feet of film.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" id="img_f240a" style="width: 285px;">
+ <img src="images/img_f240a.png" width="285" height="355" alt="" />
+ <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">A Kachin Woman in the Market<br />
+ at Meng-ting</span></div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" id="img_f240b" style="width: 281px;">
+ <img src="images/img_f240b.png" width="281" height="366" alt="" />
+ <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">One of Our Shan Hunters with Two Yellow
+Gibbons</span></div>
+</div>
+
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_241">- 241 -</span></p>
+
+<p>One of the Kachin men, who had drunk too much,
+suddenly became belligerent when I pointed the camera
+in his direction, and rushed at me with a drawn knife.
+I swung for his jaw with my right fist and he went down
+in a heap. He was more surprised than hurt, I imagine,
+but it took all of the fight out of him for he received no
+sympathy from the spectators.</p>
+
+<p>Poor Yvette had a difficult time with her camera
+operations and a less determined person would have
+given up in despair. The natives were so shy and suspicious
+that it was well-nigh impossible to bribe them to
+stand for a second and it was only after three hours of
+aggravating work in the stifling heat and dust that she
+at last succeeded in exposing all her plates. Her
+patience and determination were really wonderful and
+I am quite sure that I should not have obtained half her
+results.</p>
+
+<p>The Kachin women were extraordinary looking individuals.
+They were short, and strongly built, with a
+mop of coarse hair cut straight all around, and thick
+lips stained with betel nut. Their dress consisted of a
+short black jacket and skirt reaching to the knees, and
+ornamented with strings of beads and pieces of brass or
+silver. This tribe forms the largest part of the population
+in northern Burma and also extends into Assam.
+Yün-nan is fortunate in having comparatively few of
+them along its western frontier for they are an uncivilized
+and quarrelsome race and frequently give the British
+government considerable trouble.</p>
+
+<p>There were only a few Burmans in the market
+although the border is hardly a dozen miles to the west,
+but the girls were especially attractive. Their bright
+pretty faces seemed always ready to break into a smile
+and their graceful figures draped in brilliant sarongs
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_242">- 242 -</span>
+were in delightful contrast to the other, not over-dean,
+natives.</p>
+
+<p>The Burma girls were not chewing betel nut, which
+added to their distinction. The lips of virtually every
+other woman and man were stained from the red juice,
+which is in universal use throughout India, the Malay
+Peninsula, and the Netherlands Indies. In Yün-nan
+we first noted it at the "Good Hope" camp, and the
+Shans are generally addicted to the practice.</p>
+
+<p>The permanent population of Meng-ting is entirely
+Shan, but during the winter a good many Cantonese
+Chinamen come to gamble and buy opium. The drug is
+smuggled across the border very easily and a lucrative
+trade is carried on. It can be purchased for seventy-five
+cents (Mexican) an ounce in Burma and sold for two
+dollars (Mexican) an ounce in Yün-nan Fu and for ten
+dollars in Shanghai.</p>
+
+<p>Opium is smoked publicly in all the tea houses. The
+drug is cooked over an alcohol lamp and when the "pill"
+is properly prepared it is placed in the tiny bowl of the
+pipe, held against the flame and the smoke inhaled. The
+process is a rather complicated one and during it the
+natives always recline. No visible effect is produced
+even after smoking several pipefuls, but the deathly
+paleness and expressionless eye marks the inveterate
+opium user.</p>
+
+<p>There can be no doubt that the Chinese government
+has been, and is, genuinely anxious to suppress the use
+of opium and it has succeeded to a remarkable degree.
+We heard of only one instance of poppy growing in
+Yün-nan and often met officials, accompanied by a
+guard of soldiers, on inspection trips. Indeed, while we
+were in Meng-ting the district mandarin arrived. We
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_243">- 243 -</span>
+were sitting in our tents when the melodious notes of
+deep-toned gongs floated in through the mist. They
+were like the chimes of far away cathedral bells sounding
+nearer and louder, but losing none of the sweetness.
+Soon a long line of soldiers appeared and passed the
+camp bearing in their midst a covered chair. The mandarin
+established himself in a spacious temple on the
+opposite side of the village, where I visited him the following
+day and explained the difficulty we had had at
+the Meng-ting <i>yamen</i>. He aided us so effectually that
+all opposition to our plans ended and we obtained a
+guide to take us to a hunting place on the Nam-ting
+River, three miles from the Burma border.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_244">- 244 -</span></p>
+
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXIX">CHAPTER XXIX</h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class="caption3">CAMPING ON THE NAM-TING RIVER</p>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Every</span> morning the valley at Meng-ting was filled
+with a thick white mist and when we broke camp at daylight
+each mule was swallowed up in the fog as soon as
+it left the rice field. We followed the sound of the leader's
+bell, but not until ten o'clock was the entire caravan
+visible. For thirty U the valley is broad and flat as at
+Meng-ting and filled with a luxuriant growth of rank
+grass, but it narrows suddenly where the river has carved
+its way through a range of hills.</p>
+
+<p>The trail led uncertainly along a steep bank through
+a dense, tropical jungle. Palms and huge ferns, broad-leaved
+bananas, and giant trees laced and interlaced with
+thorny vines and hanging creepers formed a living wall
+of green as impenetrable as though it were a net of steel.
+We followed the trail all day, sometimes picking our
+way among the rocks high above the river or padding
+along in the soft earth almost at the water's edge. At
+night we camped in a little clearing where some adventurous
+native had fought the jungle and been defeated;
+his bamboo hut was in ruins and the fields were overgrown
+with a tangle of throttling vegetation.</p>
+
+<p>We had seen no mammals, but the birds along the road
+were fascinating. Brilliant green parrots screamed in
+the tree tops and tiny sun-birds dressed in garments of
+red and gold and purple, flashed across the trail like living
+jewels. Once we heard a strange whirr and saw a
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_245">- 245 -</span>
+huge hornbill flapping heavily over the river, every
+beat of his stiff wing feathers sounding like the motor
+of an aëroplane. Bamboo partridges called from the
+bushes and dozens of unfamiliar bird notes filled the air.</p>
+
+<p>At eleven o'clock on the following morning we passed
+two thatched huts in a little clearing beside the trail and
+the guide remarked that our camping place was not far
+away. We reached it shortly and were delighted. Two
+enormous trees, like great umbrellas, spread a cool, dark
+shade above a sparkling stream on the edge of an abandoned
+rice field. From a patch of ground as level as a
+floor, where our tents were pitched, we could look across
+the brown rice dykes to the enclosing walls of jungle
+and up to the green mountain beyond. A half mile
+farther down the trail, but hidden away in the jungle,
+lay a picturesque Shan village of a dozen huts, where the
+guide said we should be able to find hunters.</p>
+
+<p>As soon as tiffin was over we went up the creek with
+a bag of steel traps to set them on the tiny trails which
+wound through the jungle in every direction. Selecting
+a well-beaten patch we buried the trap in the center,
+covered it carefully with leaves, and suspended the body
+of a bird or a chunk of meat by a wire over the pan
+about three feet from the ground. A light branch was
+fastened to the chain as a "drag." When the trap is
+pulled this invariably catches in the grass or vines and,
+while holding the animal firmly, still gives enough
+"spring" to prevent its freeing itself.</p>
+
+<p>Trapping is exceedingly interesting for it is a contest
+of wits between the trapper and the animal with
+the odds by no means in favor of the former. The
+trap may not be covered in a natural way; the surroundings
+may be unduly disturbed; a scent of human hands
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_246">- 246 -</span>
+may linger about the bait, or there may be numberless
+other possibilities to frighten the suspicious animal.</p>
+
+<p>In the evening our guide brought a strange individual
+whom he introduced as the best hunter in the village.
+He was a tall Mohammedan Chinese who dressed
+like a Shan and was married to a Shan woman. He
+seemed to be afflicted with mental and physical inertia,
+for when he spoke it was in slow drawl hardly louder
+than a whisper, and every movement of his body was correspondingly
+deliberate. We immediately named him
+the "Dying Rabbit" but discovered very shortly that
+he really had boundless energy and was an excellent
+hunter.</p>
+
+<p>The next morning he collected a dozen Shans for
+beaters and we drove a patch of jungle above camp but
+without success. There were many sambur tracks in
+the clearings, but we realized at once that it was going to
+be difficult to get deer because of the dense cover; the
+open places were so few and small that a sambur had
+every chance to break through without giving a shot.</p>
+
+<p>Nearly all the beaters carried guns. The "Dying
+Rabbit" was armed with a .45-caliber bolt action rifle
+into which he had managed to fit a .808 shell and several
+of the men had Winchester carbines, model 1875.
+The guns had all been brought from Burma and most
+were without ammunition, but each man had an assortment
+of different cartridges and used whichever he could
+force into his rifle.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" id="img_f246a" style="width: 364px;">
+ <img src="images/img_f246a.png" width="364" height="283" alt="" />
+ <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">Our Camp on the Nam-ting River</span></div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" id="img_f246b" style="width: 364px;">
+ <img src="images/img_f246b.png" width="364" height="286" alt="" />
+ <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">The Shan Village at Nam-ka</span></div>
+</div>
+
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_247">- 247 -</span></p>
+
+<p>The men worked splendidly under the direction of the
+"Dying Rabbit." On the second day they put up a
+sambur which ran within a hundred feet of us but was
+absolutely invisible in the high grass. When we returned
+to camp we found that a civet (<i>Viverra</i>) had
+walked past our tent and begun to eat the scraps about
+the cook box, regardless of the shouts of the <i>mafus</i> and
+servants who were imploring Heller to bring his gun.
+After considerable difficulty they persuaded him that
+there really was some cause for their excitement and he
+shot the animal. It was probably ill, for its flesh was
+dry and yellow, but the skin was in excellent condition.</p>
+
+<p>Civets belong to the family <i>Viverridæ</i> and are found
+only in Asia and Africa. Although they resemble cats
+superficially they are not directly related to them and
+their claws are only partly retractile. They are very
+beautiful animals with a grayish body spotted with
+black, a ringed tail, and a black and white striped
+pointed head. A scent gland near the base of the tail
+secretes a strong musk-like odor which, although penetrating,
+is not particularly disagreeable. The animals
+move about chiefly in the early morning and evening and
+at night and prey upon birds, eggs, small mammals, fish,
+and frogs. One which we caught and photographed had
+a curious habit of raising the hair on the middle of its
+back from the neck to the tail whenever it was angry or
+frightened.</p>
+
+<p>Although there were no houses within half a mile of
+camp we were surprised on our first night to hear cocks
+crowing in the jungle. The note was like that of the
+ordinary barnyard bird, except that it ended somewhat
+more abruptly. The next morning we discovered Chanticleer
+and all his harem in a deserted rice field, and he
+flew toward the jungle in a flash of red and gold.</p>
+
+<p>I dropped him and one of his hens with a right and left
+of "sixes" and found that they were jungle fowl (<i>Gallus
+gallus</i>) in full plumage. The cock was a splendid bird.
+The long neck feathers (hackles) spread over his back
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_248">- 248 -</span>
+and wings like a shimmering golden mantle, but it was
+hardly more beautiful than the black of his underparts
+and green-glossed tail. Picture to yourself a "black-breasted
+red" gamecock and you have him in all his
+glory except that his tail is drooping and he is more
+pheasant-like in his general bearing. The female was a
+trim little bird with a lilac sheen to her brown feathers
+and looked much like a well-kept game bantam hen.</p>
+
+<p>The jungle fowl is the direct ancestor of our barnyard
+hens and roosters which were probably first domesticated
+in Burma and adjacent countries long before the dawn
+of authentic history. According to tradition the Chinese
+received their poultry from the West about 1400 B.C.
+and they are figured in Babylonian cylinders between the
+sixth and seventh centuries B.C.; although they were
+probably introduced in Greece through Persia there is
+no direct evidence as to when and how they reached
+Europe.</p>
+
+<p>The black-breasted jungle fowl (<i>Gallus gallus</i>) inhabit
+northern India, Burma, Indo-Chinese countries,
+the Malay Peninsula, and the Philippine Islands; a
+related species, <i>G. lafayetti</i>, is found in Ceylon; another,
+<i>G. sonnerati</i>, in southern India, and a fourth, <i>G. varius</i>,
+in Java.</p>
+
+<p>We found the jungle fowl wild and hard to kill even
+where they were seldom hunted. During the heat of the
+day they remain in thick cover, but in cloudy weather
+and in the early morning and evening they come out into
+clearings to feed. At our camp on the Nam-ting River
+we could usually put up a few birds on the edge of the
+deserted rice fields which stretched up into the jungle,
+but they were never far away from the edge of the
+forest.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_249">- 249 -</span></p>
+
+<p>We sometimes saw single birds of either sex, but
+usually a cock had with him six or eight hens. It was
+interesting to watch such a flock feeding in the open.
+The male, resplendent in his vivid dress, shone like a
+piece of gold against the dull brown of the dry grass and
+industriously ran about among his trim little hens,
+rounding up the stragglers and directing his harem with
+a few low-toned "clucks" whenever he found some unusually
+tempting food.</p>
+
+<p>It was his duty, too, to watch for danger and he usually
+would send the flock whirring into the jungle while
+they were well beyond shotgun range. When flushed
+from the open the birds nearly always would alight in
+the first large tree and sit for a few moments before flying
+deeper into the jungle. We caught several hens in
+our steel traps, and one morning at the edge of a swamp
+I shot a jungle fowl and a woodcock with a "right and
+left" as they flushed together.</p>
+
+<p>We were at the Nam-ting camp at the beginning of
+the mating season for the jungle fowl. It is said that
+they brood from January to April according to locality,
+laying from eight to twelve creamy white eggs under a
+bamboo clump or some dense thicket where a few leaves
+have been scratched together for a nest. The hen announces
+the laying of an egg by means of a proud cackle,
+and the chicks themselves have the characteristic "peep,
+peep, peep" of the domestic birds. After the breeding
+season the beautiful red and gold neck hackles of the
+male sometimes are molted and replaced by short blackish
+feathers.</p>
+
+<p>There seems to be some uncertainty as to whether the
+cocks are polygamous, but our observations tend to show
+that they are. We never saw more than one male in a
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_250">- 250 -</span>
+flock and in only one or two instances were the birds in
+pairs. The cocks are inveterate fighters like the domestic
+birds and their long curved spurs are exceedingly effective
+weapons.</p>
+
+<p>We set a trap for a leopard on a hill behind the Nam-ting
+River camp and on the second afternoon it contained
+a splendid polecat. This animal is a member of
+the family Mustelidæ which includes mink, otter, weasels,
+skunks, and ferrets, and with its brown body, deep
+yellow throat, and long tail is really very handsome.
+Polecats inhabit the Northern Hemisphere and are
+closely allied to the ferret which so often is domesticated
+and used in hunting rats and rabbits. We found them
+to be abundant in the low valleys along the Burma border
+and often saw them during the day running across
+a jungle path or on the lower branches of a tree. The
+polecat is a blood-thirsty little beast and kills everything
+that comes in its way for the pure love of killing, even
+when its appetite has been satisfied.</p>
+
+<p>On the third morning we found two civets in the traps.
+The cook told me that some animal had stolen a chicken
+from one of his boxes during the night and we set a trap
+only a few yards from our tent on a trail leading into
+the grass. The civet was evidently the thief for the cook
+boxes were not bothered again.</p>
+
+<p>Inspecting the traps every morning and evening was
+a delightful part of our camp life. It was like opening
+a Christmas package as we walked up the trails, for each
+one held interesting possibilities and the mammals of
+the region were so varied that surprises were always in
+store for us. Besides civets and polecats, we caught
+mongooses, palm civets, and other carnivores. The
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_251">- 251 -</span>
+small traps yielded a new <i>Hylomys</i>, several new rats,
+and an interesting shrew.</p>
+
+<p>We saw a few huge squirrels (<i>Ratufa gigantea</i>) and
+shot one. It was thirty-six inches long, coal black above
+and yellow below. The animals were very shy and as
+they climbed about in the highest trees they were by no
+means easy to see or shoot. They represent an interesting
+group confined to India, Siam, the Malay Peninsula,
+the islands of the Dutch East Indies, and Borneo.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_252">- 252 -</span></p>
+
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXX">CHAPTER XXX</h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class="caption3">MONKEY HUNTING</p>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Our</span> most exciting sport at the Nam-ting camp was
+hunting monkeys. Every morning we heard querulous
+notes which sounded much like the squealing of very
+young puppies and which were followed by long, siren
+wails; when the shrill notes had reached their highest
+pitch they would sink into low mellow tones exceedingly
+musical.</p>
+
+<p>The calls usually started shortly after daylight and
+continued until about nine o'clock, or later if the day was
+dark or rainy. They would be answered from different
+parts of the jungle and often sounded from half a dozen
+places simultaneously. The natives assured us that the
+cries were made by <i>hod-zu</i> (monkeys) and several times
+we started in pursuit, but they always ceased long before
+we had found a way through the jungle to the spot from
+which they came. At last we succeeded in locating the
+animals.</p>
+
+<p>We were inspecting a line of traps placed along a
+trail which led up a valley to a wide plateau. Suddenly
+the puppy-like squealing began, followed by a low
+tremulous wail. It seemed almost over our heads but
+the trees were empty. We stole silently along the trail
+for a hundred yards and turned into a dry creek bed
+which led up the bottom of the forested ravine. With
+infinite caution, breathing hard from excitement, we
+slipped along, scanning the top of every tree. A hornbill
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_253">- 253 -</span>
+sitting on a dead branch caught sight of us and
+flapped heavily away emitting horrid squawks. A flock
+of parrots screamed overhead and a red-bellied squirrel
+followed persistently scolding at the top of its voice, but
+the monkeys continued to call.</p>
+
+<p>The querulous squealing abruptly ceased and we stood
+motionless beside a tree. For an instant the countless
+jungle sounds were hushed in a breathless stillness; then,
+low and sweet, sounded a moaning wail which swelled
+into deep full tones. It vibrated an instant, filling all
+the forest with its richness, and slowly died away. Again
+and again it floated over the tree tops and we listened
+strangely moved, for it was like the music of an exquisite
+contralto voice. At last it ceased but, ere the echoes had
+reached the valley, the jungle was ringing with an unlovely
+siren screech.</p>
+
+<p>The spell was broken and we moved on, alert and
+tense. The trees stretched upward full one hundred and
+fifty feet, their tops spread out in a leafy roof. Long
+ropelike vines festooned the upper branches and a luxuriant
+growth of parasitic vegetation clothed the giant
+trunks in a swaying mass of living green. Far above
+the taller trees a gaunt gray monarch of the forest
+towered in splendid isolation. In its topmost branches
+we could just discern a dozen balls of yellow fur from
+which proceeded discordant squeals.</p>
+
+<p>It was long range for a shotgun but the rifles were all
+in camp. I fired a charge of B.B.'s at the lowest monkey
+and as the gun roared out the tree tops suddenly sprang
+into life. They were filled with running, leaping, hairy
+forms swinging at incredible speed from branch to
+branch; not a dozen, but a score of monkeys, yellow,
+brown, and gray.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_254">- 254 -</span></p>
+
+<p>The one at which I had shot seemed unaffected and
+threw itself full twenty feet to a horizontal limb, below
+and to the right. I fired again and he stopped, ran a
+few steps forward and swung to the underside of the
+branch. At the third charge he hung suspended by one
+arm and dropped heavily to the ground stone dead.</p>
+
+<p>We tossed him into the dry creek bed and dashed up
+the hill where the branches were still swaying as the
+monkeys traveled through the tree tops. They had a
+long start and it was a hopeless chase. At every step
+our clothes were caught by the clinging thorns, our
+hands were torn, and our faces scratched and bleeding.
+In ten minutes they had disappeared and we turned
+about to find the dead animal. Suddenly Yvette saw a
+splash of leaves in the top of a tree below us and a
+big brown monkey swung out on a pendent vine. I
+fired instantly and the animal hung suspended, whirled
+slowly around and dropped to the ground. Before I had
+reloaded my gun it gathered itself together and dashed
+off through the woods on three legs faster than a man
+could run. The animal had been hiding on a branch
+and when we passed had tried to steal away undiscovered.</p>
+
+<p>We found the dead monkey, a young male, in the
+creek bed and sat down to examine it. It was evidently
+a gibbon (<i>Hylobates</i>), for its long arms, round head,
+and tailless body were unmistakable, but in every species
+with which I was familiar the male was black. This one
+was yellow and we knew it to be a prize. That there
+were two other species in the herd was certain for we
+had seen both brown and gray monkeys as they dashed
+away among the trees, but the gibbons were far more
+interesting than the others.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" id="img_f254a" style="width: 367px;">
+ <img src="images/img_f254a.png" width="367" height="285" alt="" />
+ <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">The Head of a Gibbon Killed on the Nam-ting River</span></div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" id="img_f254b" style="width: 368px;">
+ <img src="images/img_f254b.png" width="368" height="288" alt="" />
+ <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">A Civet</span></div>
+</div>
+
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_255">- 255 -</span></p>
+
+<p>Gibbons are probably the most primitive in skull and
+teeth of all the anthropoid, or manlike, apes,—the group
+which also includes the gorilla, chimpanzee, and orangutan.
+They are apparently an earlier offshoot of the
+anthropoid stem, as held by most authorities, and the
+giant apes and man are probably a later branch. Gibbons
+are essentially Oriental being found in India,
+Burma, Siam, Tonking, Borneo, and the Islands of
+Hainan, Sulu, Sumatra, and Java.</p>
+
+<p>For the remainder of our stay at the Nam-ting River
+camp we devoted ourselves to hunting monkeys and
+soon discovered that the three species we had first seen
+were totally different. One was the yellow gibbon, another
+a brown baboon (<i>Macacus</i>), and the third a huge
+gray ape with a long tail (<i>Pygathrix</i>) known as the
+"langur." On the first day all three species were together
+feeding upon some large green beans and this
+happened once again, but usually they were in separate
+herds.</p>
+
+<p>The gibbons soon became extremely wild. Although
+the same troop could usually be found in the
+valley where we had first discovered them, they chose
+hillsides where it was almost impossible to stalk them
+because of the thorny jungle. Usually when they
+called, it was from the upper branches of a dead tree
+where they could not only scan every inch of the ground
+below, but were almost beyond the range of a shotgun.
+Sometimes we climbed upward almost on our hands
+and knees, grasping vines and creepers, drawing ourselves
+up by tree trunks, crawling under thorny shrubs
+and bushes, slipping, falling, scrambling through the
+indescribable tangle. We went forward only when the
+calls were echoing through the jungle, and stood
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_256">- 256 -</span>
+motionless as the wailing ceased. But in spite of all our
+care they would see or hear us. Then in sudden silence
+there would be a tremor of the branches, splash after
+splash of leaves, and the herd would swing away
+through the trackless tree tops.</p>
+
+<p>The gibbons are well named <i>Hylobates</i> or "tree-walkers"
+for they are entirely arboreal and, although
+awkward and almost helpless on the ground, once
+their long thin hands touch a branch they become transformed
+as by a miracle.</p>
+
+<p>They launch themselves into space, catch a limb
+twenty feet away, swing for an instant, and hurl themselves
+to another. It is possible for them to travel
+through the trees faster than a man can run even on
+open ground, and when one examines their limbs the
+reason is apparent. The fore arms are so exceedingly
+long that the tips of the fingers can touch the ground
+when the animal stands erect, and the slender hands are
+longer than the feet.</p>
+
+<p>The gibbons were exceedingly difficult to kill and
+would never drop until stone dead. Once I shot an
+old male with my 6½ mm. Mannlicher rifle at about
+one hundred yards and, even though the ball had gone
+clear through his body, he hung for several minutes before
+he dropped into a tangle of vines.</p>
+
+<p>It was fifteen minutes before we were able to work
+our way through the jungle to the spot where the animal
+had fallen, and we had been searching for nearly
+half an hour when suddenly my wife shouted that a
+monkey was running along a branch above our heads. I
+fired with the shotgun at a mass of moving leaves and
+killed a second gibbon which had been hiding in the
+thick foliage. Instead of running the animals would
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_257">- 257 -</span>
+sometimes disappear as completely as though they had
+vanished in the air. After being fooled several times
+we learned to conceal ourselves in the bushes where we
+could watch the trees, and sooner or later the monkeys
+would try to steal away.</p>
+
+<p>The langurs and baboons were by no means as wild
+as the gibbons and were found in larger herds. Some
+of the langurs were carrying babies which clung to their
+mothers between the fore legs and did not seem to impede
+them in the slightest on their leaps through the
+tree tops.</p>
+
+<p>The young of this species are bright orange-red and
+strangely unlike the gray adults. As they grow older
+the red hair is gradually replaced by gray, but the tail
+is the last part of the body to change. Heller captured
+one of the tiny red monkeys and brought it back to
+camp in his coat pocket. The little fellow was only a
+few days old, and of course, absolutely helpless.</p>
+
+<p>When it was wrapped in cotton with only its queer
+little wizened face and blue eyes visible it had a startling
+resemblance to a human baby until its long tail
+would suddenly flop into sight and dispel the illusion.
+It lived only four days in spite of constant care.</p>
+
+<p>There are fifty-five species of langurs (<i>Pygathrix</i>)
+all of which are confined to the Orient. In some parts
+of India the animals are sacred and climb about the
+houses or wander in the streets of villages quite without
+fear. At times they do so much damage to crops
+that the natives who do not dare to kill the animals
+themselves implore foreigners to do so. The langurs
+are not confined to the tropics, but in the Tibetan mountains
+range far up into the snow and enjoy the cold
+weather. In the market at Li-chiang we saw several
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_258">- 258 -</span>
+skins of these animals which had been brought down
+by the Tibetans; the hair was long and silky and was
+used by the Chinese for rugs and coats.</p>
+
+<p>The species which we killed at the Nam-ting River
+camp, like all others of the genus <i>Pygathrix</i>, was interesting
+because of the long hairs of the head which form
+a distinct ridge on the occiput. We never heard the
+animals utter sounds, but it is said that the common
+Indian langur, <i>Pygathrix entellus</i>, gives a loud whoop
+as it runs through the tree tops. Often when a tiger
+is prowling about the jungle the Indian langurs will
+follow the beast, keeping in the branches just above its
+head and scolding loudly.</p>
+
+<p>The baboon, or macaque, which we killed on the Nam-ting
+was a close relative of the species (<i>Macacus rhesus</i>)
+which one sees parading solemnly about the streets of
+Calcutta, Bombay, and other Indian cities. In Agra,
+the home of the beautiful Taj Mahal, the Monkey
+Temple is visited by every tourist. A large herd of
+macaques lives in the grounds and at a few chuckling
+calls from the native attendants will come trooping over
+the walls for the food which is kept on sale at the gate.
+These animals are surprisingly tame and make most
+amusing pets.</p>
+
+<p>On one of our hunts my wife and I discovered a water
+hole in the midst of a dense jungle where the mud was
+trodden hard by sambur, muntjac, wild boar, and other
+animals. We decided to spend a night watching beside
+it, but the "Dying Rabbit" who was enthusiastic in the
+day time lost his courage as the sunlight waned. Very
+doubtfully he consented to go.</p>
+
+<p>Although the trip netted us no tangible results it
+was an experience of which we often think. We
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_259">- 259 -</span>
+started just at dusk and installed ourselves in the
+bushes a few yards from the water hole. In half an
+hour the forest was enveloped in the velvety blackness
+of the tropic night. Not a star nor a gleam of light
+was visible and I could not see my hand before my face.</p>
+
+<p>We sat absolutely motionless and listened to the
+breath of the jungle, which although without definite
+sound, was vibrant with life. Now and then a muntjac
+barked hoarsely and the roar of a sambur stag
+thrilled us like an electric shock. Once a wild boar
+grunted on the opposite bank of the river, the sound
+coming to us clear and sharp through the stillness although
+the animal was far away.</p>
+
+<p>Tiny forest creatures rustled all about us in the
+leaves and a small animal ran across my wife's lap, leaping
+frantically down the hill as it felt her move. For
+five hours we sat there absolutely motionless. Although
+no animals came to the water hole we were silent
+with a great happiness as we groped our way back
+to camp, for we had been close to the heart of the jungle
+and were thrilled with the mystery of the night.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_260">- 260 -</span></p>
+
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXXI">CHAPTER XXXI</h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class="caption3">THE SHANS OF THE BURMA BORDER</p>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">We</span> saw many Shans at the Nam-ting River, for not
+only was there a village half a mile beyond our camp,
+but natives were passing continually along the trail on
+their way to and from the Burma frontier. The village
+was named Nam-ka. Its chief was absent when
+we arrived, but the natives were cordial and agreed to
+hunt with us; when the head man returned, however,
+he was most unfriendly. He forbade the villagers
+from coming to our camp and arguments were of no
+avail. It soon became evident that only force could
+change his attitude, and one morning, with all our servants
+and <i>mafus</i>, we visited his house. He was informed
+that unless he ceased his opposition and ordered
+his men to assist us in hunting we would take him to
+Meng-ting for trial before the mandarin. He grudgingly
+complied and we had no further trouble.</p>
+
+<p>We found the Shans at Nam-ka to be simple and
+honest people but abnormally lazy. During our three
+weeks' stay not a single trap was stolen, although the
+natives prized them highly, and often brought to us
+those in which animals had been caught. Shans were
+continually about our camp where boxes were left unlocked,
+but not an article of our equipment was missed.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" id="img_f260a" style="width: 278px;">
+ <img src="images/img_f260a.png" width="278" height="355" alt="" />
+ <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">A Shan Girl</span></div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" id="img_f260b" style="width: 273px;">
+ <img src="images/img_f260b.png" width="273" height="357" alt="" />
+ <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">A Shan Boy</span></div>
+</div>
+
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_261">- 261 -</span></p>
+
+<p>The Nam-ka Shans elevated their houses on six-foot
+poles and built an open porch in front of the door, while
+the dwellings at Meng-ting and farther up the valley
+were all placed upon the ground. The thatched roofs
+overhung several feet and the sides of the houses were
+open so that the free passage of air kept them delightfully
+cool. Moreover, they were surprisingly clean,
+for the floors were of split bamboo, and the inmates, if
+they wore sandals, left them at the door. In the center
+of the single room, on a large flat stone, a small fire
+always burned, but much of the cooking was done on
+the porch where a tiny pavilion had been erected over
+the hearth.</p>
+
+<p>The Shans at Nam-ka had "no visible means of support."
+The extensive rice paddys indicated that in the
+past there had been considerable cultivation but the
+fields were weed-grown and abandoned. The villagers
+purchased all their vegetables from the Mohammedan
+hunter and two other Chinese who lived a mile up the
+trail, or from passing caravans whom they sometimes
+entertained. In all probability they lived upon the
+sale of smuggled opium for they were only a few miles
+from the Burma border.</p>
+
+<p>Virtually every Shan we saw in the south was heavily
+tattooed. Usually the right leg alone, but sometimes
+both, were completely covered from the hip to the knee
+with intricate designs in black or red. The ornamentations
+often extended entirely around the body over the
+abdomen and waist, but less frequently on the breast
+and arms.</p>
+
+<p>All the natives were inordinately proud of these decorations
+and usually fastened their wide trousers in
+such a way as to display them to the best advantage.
+We often could persuade a man to pose before the
+camera by admiring his tattoo marks and it was most
+amusing to watch his childlike pleasure.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_262">- 262 -</span></p>
+
+<p>The Shan tribe is a large one with many subdivisions,
+and it is probable that at one time it inhabited a
+large part of China south of the Yangtze River; indeed,
+there is reason to believe that the Cantonese Chinamen
+are chiefly of Shan stock, and the facial resemblance
+between the two races certainly is remarkable.</p>
+
+<p>Although the Shans formerly ruled a vast territory
+in Yün-nan before its conquest by the Mongol emperors
+of China in the thirteenth century A. D., and at one
+time actually subdued Burma and established a dynasty
+of their own, at present the only independent kingdom
+of the race is that of Siam. By far the greatest number
+of Shans live in semi-independent states tributary
+to Burma, China, and Siam, and in Yün-nan inhabit
+almost all of the southern valleys below an altitude of
+4,000 feet.</p>
+
+<p>The reason that the Chinese allow them to hold such
+an extent of fertile land is because the low plains are
+considered unhealthy and the Chinese cannot, or will
+not, live there. Whether or not the malarial fever of
+the valleys is so exceedingly deadly remains to be
+proved, but the Chinese believe it to be so and the result
+is the same. Where the Shans are numerous
+enough to have a chief of their own they live in a semi-independent
+state, for although their head man is subordinate
+to the district Chinese official, the latter seldom
+interferes with the internal affairs of the tribe.</p>
+
+<p>The Shans are a short, strongly-built race with a distinct
+Mongolian type of features and rather fair complexions.
+Their dress varies decidedly with the region,
+but the men of the southern part of the province on the
+Nam-ting River wear a pair of enormous trousers, so
+baggy that they are almost skirtlike, a white jacket,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_263">- 263 -</span>
+and a large white or pink turban surmounted by a huge
+straw hat. The women dress in a white jacket and
+skirt of either striped or dark blue cloth; their turbans
+are of similar material and may be worn in a high cylinder,
+a low oval, or many other shapes according to the
+particular part of the province in which they live.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_264">- 264 -</span></p>
+
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXXII">CHAPTER XXXII</h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class="caption3">PRISONERS OF WAR IN BURMA</p>
+
+<p class="caption4"><i>Y. B. A.</i></p>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">The</span> camp at Nam-ka was a supremely happy one
+and we left it on March 7, with much regret. Its resources
+seemed to be almost exhausted and the Mohammedan
+hunter assured us that at a village called
+Ma-li-ling we would find excellent shooting. We
+asked him the distance and he replied, "About a long
+bamboo joint away." It required three days to get
+there!</p>
+
+<p>Whether the man had ever been to Ma-li-ling we do
+not know but we eventually found it to be a tiny village
+built into the side of a hill in an absolutely barren
+country where there was not a vestige of cover.
+Our journey there was not uneventful. We left
+Nam-ka with high hopes which were somewhat dampened
+after a day's unsuccessful hunting at the spot
+where our caravan crossed the Nam-ting River.</p>
+
+<p>With a Shan guide we traveled due north along a
+good trail which led through dense jungle where there
+was not a clearing or a sign of life. In the afternoon
+we noted that the trail bore strongly to the west and
+ascended rapidly. Soon we had left the jungle and
+emerged into an absolutely treeless valley between high
+barren hills. We knew that the Burma frontier could
+not be far away, and in a few moments we passed a
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_265">- 265 -</span>
+large square "boundary stone"; a hundred yards on the
+other side the hills were covered with bright green
+stalks and here and there a field glistened with white
+poppy blossoms. The guide insisted that we were on
+the direct road to Ma-li-ling which for the first time he
+said was in Burma. On our map it was marked well
+over the border in Chinese territory and we were
+greatly puzzled.</p>
+
+<p>About six o'clock the brown huts of a village were
+silhouetted against the sky on a tiny knoll in the midst
+of a grove of beautiful trees, and we camped at the
+edge of a water hole. The pool was almost liquid mud,
+but we were told that it was the only water supply of
+the village and its cattle. As though to prove the
+statement a dozen buffalos ambled slowly down the hill,
+and stood half submerged in the brown liquid, placidly
+chewing their cuds; meanwhile blue-clad Shan women
+with buckets in their hands were constantly arriving at
+the pond for their evening supply of water. We had
+no filter and it was nauseating to think of drinking the
+filthy liquid but there was no alternative and after repeated
+boiling and several strainings we settled it with
+alum and disguised its taste in tea and soup.</p>
+
+<p>After dinner we questioned the few natives who
+spoke Chinese, but we became only more and more confused.
+They knew of no such place as Ma-li-ling and
+our Shan guide had discreetly disappeared. But they
+were familiar with the trail to Ma-li-pa, a village farther
+west in Burma and, moreover, they said that two
+hundred foreign soldiers were stationed there. We
+were quite certain that they must be native Indian
+troops but thought that a white officer might perhaps
+be in command.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_266">- 266 -</span></p>
+
+<p>We did not wish to cross the frontier because of possible
+political difficulties since we had no permits to
+shoot in Burma, but there seemed to be no alternative,
+for we were hopelessly bewildered by the mythical Ma-li-ling.
+We eventually discovered that there were two
+villages by that name—one in Burma, and the other
+in China, where it was correctly placed on the map
+which we were using.</p>
+
+<p>While we were discussing the matter a tremendous
+altercation arose between the Chinese <i>mafus</i> and the
+servants. For some time Roy did not interfere, supposing
+it to be a personal quarrel, but the disturbance
+at last became unbearable. Calling Wu we learned
+that because we had been so careful to avoid English
+territory the <i>mafus</i> had conceived the idea that for some
+reason we were afraid to meet other foreigners. Since
+we had inadvertently crossed into Burma it appeared
+to them that it would be an opportune time to extort
+an increase of wages. They announced, therefore, that
+unless extra money was given them at once they would
+untie the loads and leave us.</p>
+
+<p>They were hardly prepared for what followed, however.
+Taking his Mannlicher rifle, Roy called the
+<i>mafus</i> together and told them that if any man touched
+a load he would begin to shoot the mules and that if
+they made the slightest resistance the gun would be
+turned on them. A <i>mafus'</i> mules represent all his
+property and they did not relish the turn affairs had
+taken. They subsided at once, but we had the loads
+guarded during the night. In the morning the <i>mafus</i>
+were exceedingly surprised when they learned that we
+were going to Ma-li-pa and their change of front was
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_267">- 267 -</span>
+laughable; they were as humble and anxious to please
+as they had been belligerent the night before.</p>
+
+<p>The trail led over the same treeless rolling hills
+through which we had passed on the previous afternoon.
+There was only one village, but it was surrounded
+by poppy fields in full blossom. It must be a
+rather difficult matter for a native living in China near
+the border to understand why he should not be allowed
+to produce the lucrative opium while only a few yards
+away, over an imaginary line, it can be planted without
+restriction. Poppies seem to grow on hillsides better
+than on level ground. The plants begin to blossom in
+late February and the petals, when about to fall, are collected
+for the purpose of making "leaves" with which to
+cover the balls of opium. The seed pods which are left
+after the petals drop off are scarified vertically, at intervals
+of two or three days, by means of a sharp cutting instrument.
+The operation is usually performed about
+four o'clock in the afternoon, and the opium, in the form
+of dried juice, is collected the next morning. When
+China, in 1906, forbade the consumption of opium and
+the growing of poppies, it was estimated that there were
+from twenty-five to thirty millions of smokers in the
+Empire.</p>
+
+<p>We reached Ma-li-pa about one o'clock in the afternoon
+and found it to be a straggling village built on
+two sides of a deep ravine, with a mixed population of
+Shans and Chinese. It happened to be the weekly market
+day and the "bazaar" was crowded. A number of
+Indian soldiers in khaki were standing about, and I
+called out to Roy, "I wonder if any of them speak
+English." Instantly a little fellow approached, with
+cap in hand, and said, "Yes, Madame, I speak English."</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_268">- 268 -</span></p>
+
+<p>One cannot realize how strange it seemed to hear our
+own language from a native in this out-of-the-way spot I
+He was the "compounder," or medical assistant, and
+told us that the hundred native troops were in charge
+of a white officer whose house was on the opposite side
+of the river gorge. He guided us to a temple and,
+while the mules were being unloaded, in walked a tall,
+handsome young British officer who introduced himself
+as Captain Clive. He was almost speechless with
+surprise at seeing me, for he had not spoken a sentence
+in English or seen a white person since his arrival at
+this lonely post five months before.</p>
+
+<p>He asked us at once to come to his quarters for tiffin
+and we accepted gladly. On the way he gave us our
+first news of the outside world, for we had been beyond
+communication of any sort for months, and we learned
+that the United States had severed diplomatic relations
+with Germany.</p>
+
+<p>Captain Clive's bungalow was a two-room bamboo
+house with a broad verandah and thatched with straw.
+It was delightfully cool and dark after the glare of the
+yellow sun-baked plains about us, and in perfect order.
+The care which Britishers take to keep from "letting
+down" while guarding the frontiers of their vast
+empire is proverbial, and Captain Clive was a splendid
+example of the Indian officer. He was as clean-shaved
+and well-groomed as though he had been expecting us
+for days and the tiffin to which we sat down was as
+dainty and well served as it could have been in the midst
+of civilization.</p>
+
+<p>The great Lord Clive of India was an ancestor of
+our young officer who had been temporarily detached
+from his regiment, the 129th Baluchis, and sent on border
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_269">- 269 -</span>
+duty. He was very unhappy, for his brother officers
+were in active service in East Africa, and he had
+tried to resign several times, but the Indian government
+would not release him. When we reached Rangoon
+some months later we were glad to learn that he had rejoined
+his regiment and was at the front. Ma-li-pa
+was a recently established "winter station" and in May
+would be abandoned when the troop returned to Lashio,
+ten days' journey away. Comfortable barracks, cook
+houses, and a hospital had been erected beside a large
+space which had been cleaned of turf for a parade
+ground.</p>
+
+<p>Captain Clive was in communication by heliograph
+with Lashio, at the end of the railroad, and received a
+<i>résumé</i> of world news two or three times a week. With
+mirrors during the day and lanterns at night messages
+were flashed from one mountain top to another and,
+under favorable conditions, reached Lashio in seven or
+eight hours.</p>
+
+<p>We pitched our tents a short distance from the barracks
+in an open field, for there was no available shade.
+Although Captain Clive was perfectly satisfied with
+our passports and credentials he could not let us proceed
+until he had communicated with the Indian government
+by heliograph. The border was being
+guarded very closely to prevent German sympathizers
+from crossing into Burma from China and inciting
+the native tribes to rebellion.</p>
+
+<p>In December, 1915, a rather serious uprising among
+the Kachins in the Myitkyina district on the upper
+waters of the Irawadi River had been incited by a foreigner,
+I believe, and Clive had assisted in suppressing
+it. The Indian government was taking no further
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_270">- 270 -</span>
+chances and had given strict orders to arrest and hold
+anyone, other than a native, who crossed the border
+from China.</p>
+
+<p>Very fortunately H. B. M. Consul-General Goffe
+at Yün-nan Fu had communicated with the Lieutenant-Governor
+of Burma concerning our Expedition and
+we consequently expected no trouble, but Captain Clive
+could not let us proceed until he had orders to do so
+from the Superintendent of the Northern Shan States.
+Through a delayed message this permission did not
+reach him for five days and in the meantime we made
+the most of the limited collecting resources which Ma-li-pa
+afforded.</p>
+
+<p>Clive ordered his day like all the residents of Burma.
+He rose at six o'clock and after coffee and rolls had
+drill for two hours. At half past ten a heavy meal took
+the place of breakfast and tiffin; tea, with sandwiches
+and toast, was served at three o'clock, and dinner at
+eight. His company was composed of several different
+native tribes, and each religious caste had its own cook
+and water carrier, for a man of one caste could not prepare
+meals for men of another. It is an extraordinary
+system but one which appears to operate perfectly well
+under the adaptable English government. Certainly
+one of the great elements in the success of the British
+as colonizers is their respect for native customs and
+superstitions!</p>
+
+<p>The company drilled splendidly and we were surprised
+to hear all commands given in English although
+none of the men could understand that language. This
+is done to enable British and Indian troops to maneuver
+together. Captain Clive, himself, spoke Hindustani to
+his officers. In the evening the men played football
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_271">- 271 -</span>
+on the parade ground and it seemed as though we had
+suddenly been transported into civilization on the magic
+carpet of the Arabian Nights.</p>
+
+<p>Every morning we went shooting at daylight and returned
+about nine o'clock. Conditions were not favorable
+for small mammals and although we could undoubtedly
+have caught a few civets, mongooses, and cats
+we did not set a line of steel traps for we expected to
+leave at any time. Our attention was mostly devoted
+to bird collecting and we obtained about two hundred
+interesting specimens.</p>
+
+<p>We had our mid-morning meal each day with Captain
+Clive and he dined with us in the evening. He
+had brought with him from Lashio a large quantity of
+supplies and lived almost as well as he could have done
+at home. Although the days were very warm, the
+nights were cold and a camp fire was most acceptable.</p>
+
+<p>Captain Clive was on excellent terms with the Chinese
+authorities and, while we were there, a very old
+mandarin, blind and infirm, called to present his compliments.
+He had been an ardent sportsman and was
+especially interested in our guns; had we been willing
+to accept the commission he would have paid us the
+money then and there to purchase for him a Savage
+.250-.300 rifle like the one we were carrying. The old
+gentleman always had been very loyal to the British
+and had received several decorations for his services.</p>
+
+<p>A few days after our arrival a half dead Chinaman
+crawled into camp with his throat terribly cut. He had
+been attacked by brigands only a few miles over the
+border and had just been able to reach Ma-li-pa. The
+company "compounder" took him in charge and, when
+Clive asked him about the patient, his evasive answers
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_272">- 272 -</span>
+were most amusing; like all Orientals he would not
+commit himself to any definite statement because he
+might "lose face" if his opinion proved to be wrong.</p>
+
+<p>Captain Clive said to him, "Do you think the Chinaman
+will die?" Looking very judicial the native replied,
+"Sir, he <i>may</i> die, and yet, he may live." "But,"
+said Clive, "he will probably die, won't he?" "Yes,"
+was the answer, "and yet perhaps he will live." That
+was all the satisfaction he was able to get.</p>
+
+<p>Clive told us of another native who formerly had
+been in his company. He had been transferred and
+one day the Captain met him in Rangoon. When
+asked if his pay was satisfactory the answer was typical,
+"Sir, it is good, but not <i>s-o-o</i> good!"</p>
+
+<p>On the afternoon of our fourth day in Ma-li-pa a
+heliograph from Rangoon announced that "The Asiatic
+Zoölogical Expedition of the American Museum
+of Natural History is especially commended to His
+Majesty's Indian Government and permission is
+hereby granted to carry on its work in Burma wherever
+it may desire." This was only one of the many courtesies
+which we received from the British.</p>
+
+<p>The morning following the receipt of the heliogram
+we broke camp at daylight. When the last mule of
+the caravan had disappeared over the brown hills
+toward China we regretfully said farewell and rode
+away. If we are ever again made "prisoners of war"
+we hope our captor will be as delightful a gentleman as
+Captain Clive.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_273">- 273 -</span></p>
+
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXXIII">CHAPTER XXXIII</h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class="caption3">HUNTING PEACOCKS ON THE SALWEEN RIVER</p>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">From</span> Ma-li-pa we traveled almost due north to the
+Salween River. The country through which we
+passed was a succession of dry treeless hills, brown and
+barren and devoid of animal life. On the evening of
+the third day we reached the Salween at a ferry a few
+miles from the village of Changlung where the river
+begins its great bend to the eastward and sweeps across
+the border from China into Burma.</p>
+
+<p>The stream has cut a tremendous gorge for itself
+through the mountains and the sides are so precipitous
+that the trail doubles back upon itself a dozen times before
+it reaches the river 3,500 feet below. The upper
+half of the gorge is bare or thinly patched with trees,
+but in the lower part the grass is long and rank and a
+thin dry jungle straggles along the water's edge. The
+Salween at this point is about two hundred yards wide,
+but narrows to half that distance below the ferry and
+flows in a series of rapids between rocky shores.</p>
+
+<p>The valley is devoid of human life except for three
+boatmen who tend the ferry, but the deserted rice fields
+along a narrow shelf showed evidence of former cultivation.
+On the slopes far up the side of the cañon is
+a Miao village, a tribe which we had not seen before.
+Probably the valley is too unhealthy for any natives to
+live close to the water's edge and, even at the time of
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_274">- 274 -</span>
+our visit in early March, the heated air was laden with
+malaria.</p>
+
+<p>The ferrymen were stupid fellows, half drugged with
+opium, and assured us that there were no mammals
+near the river. They admitted that they sometimes
+heard peacocks and, while our tents were being pitched
+on a steep sand bank beneath a giant tree, the weird
+catlike call of a peacock echoed up the valley. It was
+answered by another farther down the river, and the
+report of my gun when I fired at a bat brought forth
+a wild "pe-haun," "pe-haun," "pe-haun" from half a
+dozen places.</p>
+
+<p>The ferry was a raft built of long bamboo poles
+lashed together with vines and creepers. It floated just
+above the surface and was half submerged when loaded.
+The natives used a most extraordinary contrivance in
+place of oars. It consisted of a piece of tightly woven
+bamboo matting three feet long and two feet wide at
+right angles to which was fastened a six-foot handle.
+With these the men nonchalantly raked the water
+toward them from the bow and stem when they had
+poled the raft well into the current. The invested capital
+was not extensive, for when the ferry or "propellers"
+needed repairs a few hours' work in the jungle sufficed
+to build an entirely new outfit.</p>
+
+<p>All of the peacocks were on the opposite side of the
+river from our camp where the jungle was thickest.
+On the first morning my wife and I floated down the
+river on the raft for half a mile and landed to stalk a
+peacock which had called frequently from a rocky point
+near the water's edge. We picked our way through
+the jungle with the utmost caution but the wary old
+cock either saw or heard us before we were within range,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_275">- 275 -</span>
+and I caught just a glimpse of a brilliant green neck
+as he disappeared into the bushes. A second bird
+called on a point a half mile farther on, but it refused
+to come into the open and as we started to stalk it in
+the jungle we heard a patter of feet among the dry
+leaves followed by a roar of wings, and saw the bird
+sail over the tree tops and alight on the summit of a
+bush-clad hill.</p>
+
+<p>This was the only peacock which we were ever able
+to flush when it had already gained cover. Usually the
+birds depend entirely upon their ability to hide or run
+through the bushes. After several attempts we learned
+that it was impossible to stalk the peacocks successfully.
+The jungle was so crisp and parched that the dry leaves
+crackled at every step and even small birds made a
+loud noise while scratching on the ground.</p>
+
+<p>The only way to get the peacocks was to watch for
+them at the river when they came to drink in the early
+morning and evening. Between two rocky points
+where we had first seen the birds there was a long
+curved beach of fine white sand. One morning Heller
+waited on the point nearest camp while my wife and I
+posted ourselves under a bush farther down the river.
+We had been sitting quietly for half an hour when we
+heard a scratching in the jungle. Thinking it was a
+peacock feeding we turned our backs to the water and
+sat motionless peering beneath the bushes. Meanwhile,
+Heller witnessed an interesting little drama enacted
+behind us.</p>
+
+<p>An old male peacock with a splendid train stole
+around the point close to the water, jumped to a high
+stone within thirty yards of us and stood for a full minute
+craning its beautiful green neck to get a better view
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_276">- 276 -</span>
+as we kneeled in front of him totally unconscious of his
+presence. After he had satisfied his curiosity he hopped
+off the observation pinnacle and, with his body flattened
+close to the ground, slipped quietly away. It was an
+excellent example of the stalker being stalked and had
+Heller not witnessed the scene we should never have
+known how the clever old bird had fooled us.</p>
+
+<p>The following morning we got a peahen at the same
+place. Heller had concealed himself in the bushes on
+one side of the point while I watched the other.
+Shortly after daylight an old female sailed out of the
+jungle on set wings and alighted at the water's edge.
+She saw Heller almost instantly, although he was completely
+covered by the vines, and started to fly, but he
+dropped her with a broken wing. Recovering herself,
+she darted around the rocky point only to meet a
+charge of B.B.'s from my gun. She was a beautiful
+bird with a delicate crown of slender feathers, a yellow
+and blue face patch and a green neck and back, but
+her plumes were short and inconspicuous when compared
+with those of the male.</p>
+
+<p>Probably these birds had never before been hunted
+but they were exceedingly shy and difficult to kill.
+Although they called more or less during the entire day and
+we could locate them exactly, they were so far back
+in the jungle that the crackling of the dry leaves made
+a stalk impossible. We tried to drive them but were
+unsuccessful, for the birds would never flush unless
+they happened to be in the open and cut off from cover.
+Apparently realizing that their brilliant plumage made
+them conspicuous objects, the birds relied entirely upon
+an actual screen of bushes and their wonderful sight
+and hearing to protect themselves from enemies.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_277">- 277 -</span></p>
+
+<p>They usually came to the river to drink very early in
+the morning and just before dusk in the afternoon, but
+on cloudy days they might appear at almost any hour.
+If undisturbed they would remain near the water's
+edge for a considerable time or strut about the sand
+beach just at the edge of the jungle. At the sound of
+a gun or any other loud sharp noise the peacocks would
+answer with their mournful catlike wail, exactly as the
+domesticated birds will do.</p>
+
+<p>The Chinese believe that the flesh of the peafowl is
+poison and our servants were horrified when they
+learned that we intended to eat it. They fully expected
+that we would not survive the night and, even when
+they saw we had experienced no ill effects, they could
+not be persuaded to touch any of it themselves. An
+old peacock is too tough to eat, but the younger birds
+are excellent and when stuffed with chestnuts and
+roasted they are almost the equal of turkey.</p>
+
+<p>The species which we killed on the Salween River is
+the green peafowl (<i>Pavo munticus</i>) which inhabits
+Burma, Sumatra, Java, and the Malay Peninsula. Its
+neck is green, instead of purple, as is that of the common
+Indian peacock (<i>Pavo cristatus</i>), and it is said that it
+is the most beautiful bird of the world.</p>
+
+<p>The long ocellated tail coverts called the "train" are
+dropped about August and the birds assume more simple
+barred plumes, but the molt is very irregular; usually
+the full plumage is resumed in March or even
+earlier. The train is, of course, an ornament to attract
+the female and, when a cock is strutting about with
+spread plumes, he sometimes makes a most peculiar
+rustling sound by vibrating the long feathers.</p>
+
+<p>The eight or ten eggs are laid on the bare ground
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_278">- 278 -</span>
+under a bush in the dense jungle, are dull brownish white
+and nearly three inches long. The chicks are sometimes
+domesticated, but even when born in captivity, it is said
+they are difficult to tame and soon wander away. The
+birds are omnivorous, feeding on insects, grubs, reptiles,
+flower buds, young shoots, and grain.</p>
+
+<p>The common peafowl (<i>Pavo cristatus</i>) is a native of
+India, Ceylon, and Assam. It is held sacred by some
+religious castes and we saw dozens of the birds wandering
+about the grounds of the temples in Benares, Agra,
+and Delhi. Peafowl are said to be rather disagreeable
+pets because they often attack infirm persons and children
+and kill young poultry.</p>
+
+<p>In some parts of Ceylon and India the birds are so
+abundant and easily killed that they do not furnish even
+passable sport, but in other places they are as wild and
+difficult to shoot as we found them to be on the Salween
+River. In India it is a universal belief among sportsmen
+that wherever peafowls are common, there tiger
+will be found.</p>
+
+<p>A very beautiful variety which seems to have arisen
+abruptly in domestication is the so-called "japanned"
+or black-shouldered peacock named <i>Pavo nigripennis</i> by
+Mr. Sclater. In some respects it is intermediate between
+<i>P. munticus</i> and <i>P. cristatus</i> and apparently
+"breeds true" but never has been found in a wild state.
+Albino specimens are by no means unusual and are a
+feature of many zoölogical gardens.</p>
+
+<p>Peacocks have been under domestication for many
+centuries and are mentioned in the Bible as having been
+imported into Palestine by Solomon; although the bird
+is referred to in mythology, the Greeks probably had but
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_279">- 279 -</span>
+little knowledge of it until after the conquests of Alexander.</p>
+
+<p>In the thick jungle only a few hundred yards from
+our camp on the Salween River I put up a silver pheasant
+(<i>Euplocamus nycthemerus</i>), one of the earliest
+known and most beautiful species of the family Phasianidæ.
+Its white mantle, delicately vermiculated with
+black, extends like a wedding veil over the head, back
+and tail, in striking contrast to the blue-black underparts,
+red cheek patches, and red legs.</p>
+
+<p>This bird was formerly pictured in embroidery upon
+the heart and back badges of the official dresses of civil
+mandarins to denote the rank of the wearer, and is found
+only in southern and western China. It is by no means
+abundant in the parts of Yün-nan which we visited and,
+moreover, lives in such dense jungle that it is difficult to
+find. The natives sometimes snare the birds and offer
+them for sale alive.</p>
+
+<p>We also saw monkeys at our camp on the Salween
+River, but were not successful in killing any. They
+were probably the Indian baboon (<i>Macacus rhesus</i>)
+and, for animals which had not been hunted, were most
+extraordinarily wild. They were in large herds and
+sometimes came down to the water to skip and dance
+along the sand and play among the rocks. The monkeys
+invariably appeared on the opposite side of the river
+from us and by the time we hunted up the boatmen and
+got the clumsy raft to the other shore the baboons had
+disappeared in the tall grass or were merrily running
+through the trees up the mountain-side.</p>
+
+<p>The valley was too dry to be a very productive trapping
+ground for either small or large mammals, but
+the birds were interesting and we secured a good many
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_280">- 280 -</span>
+species new to our collection. Jungle fowl were abundant
+and pigeons exceedingly so, but we saw no ducks
+along the river and only two cormorants.</p>
+
+<p>Very few natives crossed at the ferry during our stay,
+for it is a long way from the main road and the climb
+out of the gorge is too formidable to be undertaken if
+the Salween can possibly be crossed higher up where
+the valley is wide and shallow. While we were camped
+at the river the heat was most uncomfortable during
+the middle of the day and was but little mitigated by
+the wind which blew continually. During mid-summer
+the valley at this point must be a veritable furnace and
+doubtless reeks with fever. We slept under nets at
+night and in the early evening, while we were watching
+for peacocks, the mosquitoes were very troublesome.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_281">- 281 -</span></p>
+
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXXIV">CHAPTER XXXIV</h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class="caption3">THE GIBBONS OF HO-MU-SHU</p>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">It</span> is a long hard climb out of the Salween valley.
+We left on March 24 and all day crawled up the steep
+sides on a trail which doubled back and forth upon itself
+like an endless letter S. From our camp at night
+the river was just visible as a thin green line several
+thousand feet below, and for the first time in days, we
+needed a charcoal fire in our tents.</p>
+
+<p>We were <i>en route</i> to Lung-ling, a town of considerable
+size, where there was a possibility that mail might
+be awaiting us in care of the mandarin. Although ordinarily
+a three days' journey, it was more than four
+days before we arrived, because I had a sharp attack
+of malaria shortly after leaving the Salween River and
+we had to travel half stages.</p>
+
+<p>When we were well out of the valley and at an altitude
+of 6,000 feet, we arrived at a Chinese town. Its
+dark evil-smelling houses, jammed together in a crowded
+mass, and the filthy streets swarming with ragged
+children and foot-bound women, were in unpleasant
+contrast to the charming little Shan villages which we
+had seen in the low country. The inhabitants themselves
+appeared to no better advantage when compared with
+their Shan neighbors, for their stares and insolent curiosity
+were almost unbearable.</p>
+
+<p>The region between the Salween River at Changlung
+and Lung-ling is as uninteresting to the zoölogist
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_282">- 282 -</span>
+as it could possibly be, for the hills are dry and bare
+and devoid of animal life. Lung-ling is a typical Chinese
+town except that the streets are wide and it is not as
+dirty as usual. The mandarin was a jolly rotund little
+fellow who simulated great sympathy when he informed
+me that he had received no mail for us. We had left
+directions to have a runner follow us from Yung-chang
+and in the event that he did not find our camp to proceed
+to Lung-ling with the mail. We learned some
+weeks later that the runner had been frightened by brigands
+and had turned back long before he reached
+Meng-ting.</p>
+
+<p>We had heard from our <i>mafus</i> and other natives that
+black monkeys were to be found on a mountain pass
+not far from the village of Ho-mu-shu, on the main
+Yung-chang-Teng-yueh road and, as we were certain
+that they would prove to be gibbons, we decided to make
+that our next hunting camp. It was three stages from
+Lung-ling and, toward evening of the second day, we
+again descended to the Salween River.</p>
+
+<p>The valley at this point is several miles wide and is
+so dry that the few shrubs and bushes seem to be parched
+and barely able to live. At the upper end a picturesque
+village is set among extensive rice fields. Although a
+few Chinese live there, its inhabitants are chiefly Shans
+who are in a transitory state and are gradually adopting
+Chinese customs. The houses are joined to each other
+in the Chinese way and are built of mud, thatched with
+straw. In shape as well as in composition they are quite
+unlike the dwellings of the southern Shans. The women
+wore cylindrical turbans, about eighteen inches high,
+which at a distance looked like silk hats, and the men
+were dressed in narrow trousers and jackets of Chinese
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_283">- 283 -</span>
+blue. I believe that some of the Shan women also had
+bound feet but of this I cannot be certain.</p>
+
+<p>We camped on a little knoll under an enormous tree
+at the far end of the village street, and a short time
+after the tents were up we had a visit from the Shan
+magistrate. He was a dapper energetic little fellow
+wearing foreign dress and quite <i>au courant</i> with foreign
+ways. He even owned a breech-loading shotgun,
+and, before we left, sent to ask for shells. He presented
+us with the usual chickens and I returned several tins
+of cigarettes. He appeared to be quite a sportsman
+and directed us to a place on the mountain above the
+village where he said monkeys were abundant.</p>
+
+<p>We left early in the morning with a guide and, after
+a hard climb, arrived at a little village near the forest
+to which the magistrate had directed us. Not only did
+the natives assure us that they had never seen monkeys
+but we discovered for ourselves that the only water was
+more than a mile away, and that camping there was
+out of the question.</p>
+
+<p>The next day, April 1, we went on to Ho-mu-shu.
+It is a tiny village built into the mountain-side with
+hardly fifty yards of level ground about it, but commanding
+a magnificent view over the Salween valley.
+Although we reached there at half past two in the afternoon
+the <i>mafus</i> insisted on camping because they swore
+that there was no water within fifty <i>li</i> up the mountain.
+Very unwillingly I consented to camp and the next
+morning found, as usual, that the <i>mafus</i> had lied for
+there was a splendid camping place with good water not
+two hours from Ho-mu-shu. It was useless to rage for
+the Chinese have no scruples about honesty in such small
+matters, and the head <i>mafu</i> blandly admitted that he
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_284">- 284 -</span>
+knew there was a camping place farther on but that he
+was tired and wanted to stop early.</p>
+
+<p>As we gained the summit of the ridge we were greeted
+with a ringing "hu-wa," "hu-wa," "hu-wa," from the
+forest five hundred feet below us; they were the calls of
+gibbons, without a doubt, but strikingly unlike those
+of the Nam-ting River. We decided to camp at once
+and, after considerable prospecting, chose a flat place
+beside the road. It was by no means ideal but had the
+advantage of giving us an opportunity to hunt from
+either side of the ridge which for its entire length was
+scarcely two hundred feet in width. The sides fell away
+for thousands of feet in steep forest-clad slopes and,
+as far as our eyes could reach, wave after wave of
+mountains rolled outward in a great sea of green.</p>
+
+<p>Our camp would have been delightful except for the
+wind which swept across the pass night and day in an
+unceasing gale. My wife and I set a line of traps
+along a trail which led down the north side of the ridge,
+while Heller chose the opposite slope. We were entranced
+with the forest. The trees were immense
+spreading giants with interlaced branches that formed
+a solid roof of green 150 feet above the soft moss carpet
+underneath. Every trunk was clothed in a smothering
+mass of vines and ferns and parasitic plants and, from
+the lower branches, thousands of ropelike creepers
+swayed back and forth with every breath of wind. Below,
+the forest was fairly open save for occasional
+patches of dwarf bamboo, but the upper canopy was so
+close and dense that even at noon there was hardly more
+than a somber twilight beneath the trees.</p>
+
+<p>Our first night on the pass was spent in a terrific gale
+which howled up the valley from the south and swept
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_285">- 285 -</span>
+across the ridge in a torrent of wind. The huge trees
+around us bent and tossed, and our tents seemed
+about to be torn to shreds. Amid the crashing of
+branches and the roar of the wind it was impossible to
+hear each other speak and sleep was out of the question.
+We lay in our bags expecting every second to have the
+covering torn from above our heads, but the tough cloth
+held, and at midnight the gale began to lull. In the
+morning the sun was out in a cloudless sky but the wind
+never ceased entirely on the pass even though there was
+a breathless calm among the trees a few hundred feet
+below.</p>
+
+<p>My wife and I had just returned from inspecting our
+line of traps about nine o'clock in the morning when the
+forest suddenly resounded with the "hu-wa," "hu-wa,"
+"hu-wa" of the gibbons. It seemed a long way off at
+first, but sounded louder and clearer every minute. At
+the first note we seized our guns and dashed down the
+mountain-side, slipping, stumbling, and falling. The
+animals were in the giant forest about five hundred feet
+below the summit of the ridge and as we neared them we
+moved cautiously from tree to tree, going forward only
+when they called. It was one of the most exciting stalks
+I have ever made, for the wild, ringing howls seemed
+always close above our heads.</p>
+
+<p>We were still a hundred yards away when a huge black
+monkey leaped out of a tree top just as I stepped from
+behind a bush, and he saw me instantly. For a full half
+minute he hung suspended by one arm, his round head
+thrust forward staring intently; then launching himself
+into the air as though shot from a catapult he caught a
+branch twenty feet away, swung to another, and literally
+flew through the tree tops. Without a sound save the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_286">- 286 -</span>
+swish of the branches and splash after splash in the
+leaves, the entire herd followed him down the hill. It
+was out of range for the shotgun and my wife was ten
+feet behind me with the rifle, but had I had it in my
+hand I doubt if I could have hit one of those flying
+balls of fur.</p>
+
+<p>We returned to camp with sorrow in our hearts, but
+two days later we redeemed ourselves and brought in the
+first new gibbons. We were sitting on a bed of fragrant
+pine needles watching for a squirrel which had been
+chattering in the upper branches of a giant tree, when
+suddenly the wild call of the monkeys echoed up the
+mountain-side.</p>
+
+<p>They were far away to the left, and we ran toward
+them, stumbling and slipping on the moss-covered rocks
+and logs, the "hu-wa," "hu-wa," "hu-wa" sounding
+louder every moment. They seemed almost under us
+at times and we would stand motionless and silent only
+to hear the howls die away in the distance. At last we
+located them on the precipitous side of a deep gorge
+filled with an impenetrable jungle of palms and thorny
+plants. It was an impossible place to cross, and we sat
+down, irresolute and discouraged. In a few moments
+a chorus of howls broke out and we saw the big black
+apes swinging along through the trees, two hundred
+yards away. Finally they stopped and began to feed.
+They were small marks at that distance but I rested
+my little Mannlicher on a stump and began to shoot
+while Yvette watched them with the glasses. One big
+fellow swung out on a branch and hung with one arm
+while he picked a cluster of leaves with the other. Yvette
+saw my first shot cut a twig above his head but he did
+not move, and at the roar of the second he dropped
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_287">- 287 -</span>
+heavily into the vines below. A brown female ran
+along the branch a few seconds later and peered down
+into the jungle where the first monkey had fallen. I
+covered her carefully with the ivory head of the front
+sight, pulled the trigger, and she pitched headlong off
+the tree.</p>
+
+<p>For a few seconds there was silence, then a splash of
+leaves and three huge black males leaped into full view
+from the summit of a tall tree. They were silhouetted
+against a patch of sky and I fired twice in quick succession
+registering two clean misses. The bullets must
+have whizzed too close for comfort and they faded instantly
+into the forest like three black shadows.</p>
+
+<p>For ten minutes we strained our eyes into the dense
+foliage hoping to catch a glimpse of a swaying branch.
+Suddenly Yvette heard a rustling in the low tree beneath
+which we were sitting and seized me violently by
+the arm, screaming excitedly, "There's one, right above
+us. Quick, quick, he's going!"</p>
+
+<p>I looked up and could hardly believe my eyes for not
+twenty feet away hung a huge brown monkey half the
+size of a man. Almost in a daze I fired with the shotgun.
+The gibbon stopped, slowly pivoted on one long
+arm and a pair of eyes blazing like living coals, stared
+into mine. I fired again point blank as the huge mouth,
+baring four ugly fangs, opened and emitted a blood-curdling
+howl. The monkey slowly swung back again,
+its arm relaxed and the animal fell at my feet, stone
+dead.</p>
+
+<p>It was a magnificent old female. By a lucky chance
+we had chosen, from all the trees in the forest, to sit
+under the very one in which the gibbon had been hiding
+and she had tried to steal away unnoticed.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_288">- 288 -</span></p>
+
+<p>While my wife waited to direct me from the rim of
+the gorge, I climbed down into the jungle to try and
+make my way up the opposite side where the other
+monkeys had fallen. It was dangerous work, for the
+rocks were covered with a thin layer of earth which
+supported a dense growth of vegetation. If I tried to
+let myself down a steep slope by clinging to a thick fern
+it would almost invariably strip away with a long layer
+of dirt and send me headlong.</p>
+
+<p>After two bad falls I reached the bottom of the ravine
+where a mountain torrent leaped and foamed over
+the rocks and dropped in a beautiful cascade to a pool
+fifty or sixty feet below. The climb up the opposite
+side was more difficult than the descent and twice I had
+to return after finding the way impassable.</p>
+
+<p>A sheer, clean wall almost seventy feet high separated
+me from the spot where the gibbons had fallen.
+I skirted the rock face and had laboriously worked my
+way around and above it when a vine to which I had
+been clinging stripped off and I began to slide. Faster
+and faster I went, dragging a mass of ferns and creepers
+with me, for everything I grasped gave way.</p>
+
+<p>I thought it was the end of things for me because I
+was hardly ten feet above the precipice which fell away
+to the jagged rocks of the stream bed in a drop of seventy
+feet. The rifle slung to my back saved my life.
+Suddenly it caught on a tiny ragged ledge and held me
+flattened out against the cliff. But even then I was
+far from safe, as I realized when I tried to twist about
+to reach a rope of creepers which swung outward from
+a bush above my head.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" id="img_f288a" style="width: 361px;">
+ <img src="images/img_f288a.png" width="361" height="288" alt="" />
+ <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">A Suspension Bridge</span></div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" id="img_f288b" style="width: 355px;">
+ <img src="images/img_f288b.png" width="355" height="287" alt="" />
+ <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">Mrs. Andrews Feeding One of Our Bear Cubs</span></div>
+</div>
+
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_289">- 289 -</span></p>
+
+<p>How I managed to crawl back to safety among the
+trees I can remember only vaguely. I finally got down
+to the bottom of the cañon, but felt weak and sick and
+it was half an hour before I could climb up to the place
+where my wife was waiting. She was already badly
+frightened for she had not seen me since I left her an
+hour before and, when I answered her call, she was
+about to follow into the jungle where I had disappeared.
+We left the two monkeys to be recovered from above
+and went slowly back to camp.</p>
+
+<p>The gibbons of Ho-mu-shu are quite unlike those of
+the Nam-ting River. They represent a well-known
+species called the "hoolock" (<i>Hylobates hoolock</i>) which
+is also found in Burma.</p>
+
+<p>The males, both old and young, are coal black with a
+fringe of white hairs about the face, and the females are
+light brown. Their note is totally unlike the Nam-ting
+River gibbons and, instead of sitting quietly in the top
+of a dead tree to call to their neighbors across the jungle
+for an hour or two, the hoolocks howl for about twenty
+minutes as they swing through the branches and are silent
+during the remainder of the day. They called
+most frequently on bright mornings and we seldom
+heard them during cloudy weather.</p>
+
+<p>Apparently they had regular feeding grounds, which
+were visited every day, but the herds seemed to cover
+a great deal of territory. Like the gibbons of the Nam-ting
+River, the hoolocks traveled through the tree tops
+at almost unbelievable speed, and one of the most amazing
+things which I have ever witnessed was the way in
+which they could throw themselves from one tree to
+another with unerring precision.</p>
+
+<p>On April 5, we received the first mail in nearly three
+months and our share amounted to 105 letters besides
+a great quantity of magazines. Wu had ridden to Teng-yueh
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_290">- 290 -</span>
+for us and, as well as the greatly desired mail, had
+a basket of delicious vegetables and a sheaf of Renter's
+cablegrams which were kindly sent by Messrs. Palmer
+and Abertsen, gentlemen in the employ of the Chinese
+Customs, who had cared for our mail. Mr. Abertsen
+also sent a note telling us of a good hunting ground
+near Teng-yueh.</p>
+
+<p>We spent an entire afternoon and evening over our
+letters and papers and, through them, began to get in
+touch with the world again. It is strange how little one
+misses the morning newspaper once one is beyond its
+reach and has properly adjusted one's mental perspective.
+And it is just as strange how essential it all seems
+immediately one is again within reach of such adjuncts
+of civilization.</p>
+
+<p>On April 6, we had the first rain for weeks. The water
+fell in torrents, and the roar, as it drummed upon the
+tent, was so incessant that we could barely hear each
+other shout. Because of the long dry spell our camp
+had not been made with reference to weather and during
+the night I waked to find that we were in the middle
+of a pond with fifteen inches of water in the tent. Shoes,
+clothes, guns, and cameras were soaked, and the surface
+of the water was only an inch below the bottoms of our
+cots. This was the beginning of a ten days' rain after
+which we had six weeks of as delightful weather as one
+could wish.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_291">- 291 -</span></p>
+
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXXV">CHAPTER XXXV</h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class="caption3">TENG-YUEH; A LINK WITH CIVILIZATION</p>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">After</span> a week on the pass above Ho-mu-shu we
+shifted camp to a village called Tai-ping-pu, ten miles
+nearer Teng-yueh on the same road. The ride along
+the summit of the mountain was a delight, for we passed
+through grove after grove of rhododendrons in full
+blossom. The trees were sometimes thirty feet in height
+and the red flowers glowed like clusters of living coals
+among their dark green leaves. In the northern part of
+Yün-nan the rhododendrons grow above other timber
+line on mountains where it is too high even for spruces.</p>
+
+<p>It rained continually during our stay at Tai-ping-pu.
+I had another attack of the Salween malaria and for
+five or six days could do little work. Heller, however,
+made good use of his time and killed a beautiful horned
+pheasant, Temminck's tragopan (<i>Ceriornis temmincki</i>),
+besides half a dozen langurs of the same species as
+those we had collected on the Nam-ting River. He also
+was fortunate in shooting one of the huge flying squirrels
+(<i>Petaurista yunnanensis</i>) which we had hoped to
+get at Wei-hsi. He saw the animal in the upper branches
+of a dead tree on the first evening we were in Tai-ping-pu
+but was not able to get a shot. The next night he
+watched the same spot and killed the squirrel with a
+charge of "fours." It measured forty-two and one-quarter
+inches from the nose to the end of the tail and was a
+rich mahogany red grizzled with whitish above; the
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_292">- 292 -</span>
+underparts were cream white. As in all flying squirrels,
+the four legs were connected by a sheet of skin
+called the "patagium" which is continuous with the body.
+This acts as a parachute and enables the animal to sail
+from tree to tree for, of course, it cannot fly like a
+bat As these huge squirrels are strictly nocturnal, they
+are not often seen even by the natives. We were told
+by the Lutzus on the Mekong River that by building
+huge fires in the woods they could attract the animals
+and shoot them with their crossbows.</p>
+
+<p>A few weeks later we purchased a live flying squirrel
+from a native and kept it for several days in the hope
+that it might become tame. The animal was exceedingly
+savage and would grind its teeth angrily and spring at
+anyone who approached its basket. It could not be
+tempted to eat or drink and, as it was a valuable specimen,
+we eventually chloroformed it.</p>
+
+<p>Just below our camp in a pretty little valley a half
+dozen families of Lisos were living, and we hired the
+men to hunt for us. They were good-natured fellows,
+as all the natives of this tribe seem to be, and worked
+well. One day they brought in a fine muntjac buck
+which had been killed with their crossbows and poisoned
+darts. The arrows were about twelve inches long, made
+of bamboo and "feathered" with a triangular piece of
+the same wood. Those for shooting birds and squirrels
+were sharpened to a needle point, but the hunting darts
+were tipped with steel or iron. The poison they extracted
+from a plant, which I never saw, and it was said
+that it takes effect very rapidly.</p>
+
+<p>The muntjac which the Lisos killed had been shot
+in the side with a single arrow and they assured us that
+only the flesh immediately surrounding the wound had
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_293">- 293 -</span>
+been spoiled for food. These natives like the Mosos,
+Lolos, and others carried their darts in a quiver made
+from the leg skin of a black bear, and none of the men
+wished to sell their weapons; I finally did obtain a
+crossbow and quiver for six dollars (Mexican).</p>
+
+<p>Two days before we left Tai-ping-pu, three of the
+Lisos guided my wife and me to a large cave where
+they said there was a colony of bats. The cavern was
+an hour's ride from camp, and proved to be in a difficult
+and dangerous place in the side of a cliff just above
+a swift mountain stream. We strung our gill net across
+the entrance and then sent one of the natives inside to stir
+up the animals while we caught them as they flew out.
+In less than half an hour we had twenty-eight big brown
+bats, but our fingers were cut and bleeding from the
+vicious bites of their needle-like teeth. They all represented
+a widely distributed species which we had already
+obtained at Yün-nan Fu.</p>
+
+<p>From Lung-ling I had sent a runner to Mr. Evans
+at Ta-li Fu asking him to forward to Teng-yueh the
+specimens which we had left in his care, and the day
+following our visit to the bat cave the caravan bearing
+our cases passed us at Tai-ping-pu. We, ourselves,
+were about ready to leave and two days later at ten
+o'clock in the morning we stood on a precipitous mountain
+summit, gazing down at the beautiful Teng-yueh
+plain which lay before us like a relief map. It is as
+flat as a plain well can be and, except where a dozen
+or more villages cluster on bits of dry land, the valley
+is one vast watery rice field. Far in the distance, outside
+the gray city walls, we could see two temple-like
+buildings surrounded by white-walled compounds, and
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_294">- 294 -</span>
+Wu told us they were the houses of the Customs officials.</p>
+
+<p>Teng-yueh, although only given the rank of a "ting"
+or second-class Chinese city, is one of the most important
+places in the province, for it stands as the door
+to India. All the trade of Burma and Yün-nan flows
+back and forth through the gates of Teng-yueh, over
+the great caravan road to Bhamo on the upper Irawadi.</p>
+
+<p>An important post of the Chinese Foreign Customs,
+which are administered by the British government as
+security for the Boxer indemnity, is situated in this
+city, and we were looking forward with the greatest
+interest to meeting its white population. At the time
+of our visit the foreigners included Messrs. H. G.
+Fletcher and Ralph C. Grierson, respectively Acting
+Commissioner and Assistant Commissioner of Customs;
+Messrs. W. R. Palmer and Abertsen, also of the Customs;
+Mr. Eastes, H. B. M. Consul; Dr. Chang, Indian
+Medical Officer, and Reverend and Mrs. Embry of the
+China Inland Mission; Mr. Eastes, accompanied by the
+resident mandarin, was absent on a three months' opium
+inspection tour so that we did not meet him.</p>
+
+<p>We reached Teng-yueh on Sunday morning and
+camped in a temple outside the city walls. Immediately
+after tiffin we called upon Mr. Grierson and went with
+him to the Customs House where Messrs. Abertsen and
+Palmer were living. We found there a Scotch botanist,
+Mr. Forrest, an old traveler in Yün-nan who
+was <i>en route</i> to A-tun-tzu on a three-year plant-hunting
+expedition for an English commercial firm. We had
+heard much of Forrest from Messrs. Kok and Hanna
+and were especially glad to meet him because of his
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_295">- 295 -</span>
+wide knowledge of the northwestern part of the province.
+Mr. Forrest was interested chiefly in primroses
+and rhododendrons, I believe, and in former years obtained
+a rather remarkable collection of these plants.</p>
+
+<p>From Mr. Grierson we first learned that the United
+States had declared war on Germany. It had been announced
+only a week before, and the information had
+reached Teng-yueh by cable and telegraph almost immediately.
+It came as welcome news to us Americans
+who had been vainly endeavoring to justify to ourselves
+and others our country's lethargy in the face of Teuton
+insolence, and made us feel that once again we could
+acknowledge our nationality with the pride we used
+to feel.</p>
+
+<p>On Monday Mr. Grierson invited us to become his
+guests and to move our caravan and belongings to his
+beautiful home. We were charmed with it and our host.
+The house was built with upturned, temple-like gables,
+and from his cool verandah we could look across an
+exquisite flower-filled garden to the blue mountains
+from which we had had our first view of Teng-yueh
+the day before. The interior of the dwelling was as
+attractive as its surroundings, and the beautifully served
+meals were as varied and dainty as one could have had
+in the midst of a great city.</p>
+
+<p>Like all Britishers, the Customs men had carried their
+sport with them. Just beyond the city walls an excellent
+golf course had been laid out with Chinese graves as
+bunkers, and there was a cement tennis court behind
+the Commissioner's house. Mr. Grierson had two excellent
+polo ponies, besides three trained pointer dogs,
+and riding and shooting over the beautiful hills gave
+him an almost ideal life. We found that Mr. Fletcher
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_296">- 296 -</span>
+had a really remarkable selection of records and an excellent
+Victrola. After dinner, as we listened to the
+music, we had only to close our eyes and float back to
+New York and the Metropolitan Opera House on the
+divine harmony of the sextet from "Lucia" or Caruso's
+matchless voice. But none of us wished to be there
+in body for more than a fleeting visit at least, and the
+music already brought with it a lingering sadness because
+our days in the free, wild mountains of China
+were drawing to a close.</p>
+
+<p>During the week we spent with Mr. Grierson we
+dried and packed all our specimens in tin-lined boxes
+which were purchased from the agent of the British
+American Tobacco Company in Teng-yueh. They were
+just the right size to carry on muleback and, after the
+birds and mammals had been wrapped in cotton and
+sprinkled with naphthalene, the cases were soldered and
+made air tight. The most essential thing in sending
+specimens of any kind through a moist, tropical climate
+such as India is to have them perfectly dry before the
+boxes are sealed; otherwise they will arrive at their
+destination covered with mildew and absolutely ruined.</p>
+
+<p>On the day of our arrival in Teng-yueh we purchased
+from a native two bear cubs (<i>Ursus tibetanus</i>) about a
+week old. Each was coal black except for a V-shaped
+white mark on the breast and a brown nose. When they
+first came to us they were too young to eat and we fed
+them diluted condensed milk from a spoon.</p>
+
+<p>The little chaps were as playful as kittens and the
+story of their amusing ways as they grew older is a
+book in itself. After a month one of the cubs died,
+leaving great sorrow in the camp; the other not only
+lived and flourished but traveled more than 16,000 miles.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_297">- 297 -</span></p>
+
+<p>He went with us on a pack mule to Bhamo, down the
+Irawadi River to Rangoon, and across the Bay of Bengal
+to Calcutta. He then visited many cities in India,
+and at Bombay boarded the P. & O. S. S. <i>Namur</i> for
+Hongkong and became the pet of the ship. From China
+we took him to Japan, across the Pacific to Vancouver,
+and finally to our home at Lawrence Park, Bronxville,
+New York. After an adventurous career as a house
+pet, when his exploits had made him famous and ourselves
+disliked by all the neighbors, we regretfully sent
+him to the National Zoölogical Park, Washington,
+D. C, where he is living happily at the present time. He
+was the most delightful little pet we have ever owned
+and, although now he is nearly a full grown bear, his
+early life is perpetuated in motion pictures and we can
+see him still as he came to us the first week. He might
+well have been the model for the original "Teddy Bear"
+for he was a round ball of fur, mostly head and ears
+and sparkling little eyes.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_298">- 298 -</span></p>
+
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXXVI">CHAPTER XXXVI</h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class="caption3">A BIG GAME PARADISE</p>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">A few</span> months previous to our arrival, Mr. Abertsen
+had discovered a splendid hunting ground near the village
+of Hui-yao, about eighty <i>li</i> from Teng-yueh. He
+had been shooting rabbits and pheasants and, while
+passing through the village, the natives told him that
+a large herd of <i>gnai-yang</i> or "wild goats" lived on the
+side of a hill through which a branch of the Shweli River
+had cut a deep gorge.</p>
+
+<p>Although Abertsen was decidedly skeptical as to the
+accuracy of the report he spent two days hunting and
+with his shotgun killed two gorals; moreover, he saw
+twenty-five others. We examined the two skins and
+realized at once that they represented a different species
+from those of the Snow Mountain. Therefore, when
+we left Teng-yueh our first camp was at Hui-yao.</p>
+
+<p>Heller and I started with four natives shortly after
+daylight. We crossed a tumble-down wooden bridge
+over the river at a narrow cañon where the sides were
+straight walls of rock, and followed down the gorge for
+about two miles. On the way Heller, who was in front,
+saw two muntjac standing in the grass on an open
+hillside, and shot the leader. The deer pitched headlong
+but got to its feet in a few moments and struggled off
+into the thick cover at the edge of the meadow. It had
+disappeared before Heller reached the clearing but he
+saw the second deer, a fine doe, standing on a rock.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_299">- 299 -</span>
+Although his bullet passed through both lungs the animal
+ran a quarter of a mile, and he finally discovered
+her several hours later in the bushes beside the river.</p>
+
+<p>In a short time we reached an open hillside which
+rose six or seven hundred feet above the river in a
+steep slope; the opposite side was a sheer wall of rock
+bordered on the rim by an open pine forest. We separated
+at this point. Heller, with two natives, keeping
+near the river, while I climbed up the hill to work along
+the cliffs half way to the summit.</p>
+
+<p>In less than ten minutes Heller heard a loud snort
+and, looking up, saw three gorals standing on a ledge
+seventy-five yards above him. He fired twice but missed
+and the animals disappeared around a corner of the
+hill. A few hundred yards farther on he saw a single
+old ram but his two shots apparently had no effect.</p>
+
+<p>Meanwhile I had continued along the hillside not far
+from the summit for a mile or more without seeing an
+animal. Fresh tracks were everywhere and well-cut
+trails crossed and recrossed among the rocks and grass.
+I had reached an impassable precipice and was returning
+across a steep slope when seven gorals jumped out
+of the grass where they had been lying asleep. I was
+in a thick grove of pine trees and fired twice in quick
+succession as the animals appeared through the branches,
+but missed both times.</p>
+
+<p>I ran out from the trees but the gorals were then
+nearly two hundred yards away. One big ram had left
+the herd and was trotting along broadside on. I
+aimed just in front of him and pulled the trigger as his
+head appeared in the peep sight. He turned a beautiful
+somersault and rolled over and over down the hill, finally
+disappearing in the bushes at the edge of the water.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_300">- 300 -</span></p>
+
+<p>The other gorals had disappeared, but a few seconds
+later I saw a small one slowly skirting the rocks on the
+very summit of the hill. The first shot kicked the dirt
+beside him, but the second broke his leg and he ran
+behind a huge boulder. I rested the little Mannlicher
+on the trunk of a tree, covering the edge of the rock
+with the ivory head of the front sight and waited. I
+was perfectly sure that the goral would try to steal
+out, and in two or three minutes his head appeared.
+I fired instantly, boring him through both shoulders,
+and he rolled over and over stone dead lodging against
+a rock not fifty yards from where we stood.</p>
+
+<p>The two natives were wild with excitement and, yelling
+at the top of their lungs, ran up the hill like goats
+to bring the animal down to me. It was a young male
+in full summer coat, and with horns about two inches
+long. Our pleasure was somewhat dampened, however,
+when we went to recover the first goral for we
+found that when it had landed in the grass at the edge
+of the river it had either rolled or crawled into the water.
+We searched along the bank for half a mile but without
+success and returned to Hui-yao just in time for tiffin.</p>
+
+<p>In the afternoon we shifted camp to a beautiful little
+grove on the opposite side of the river behind the
+hunting grounds. Heller, instead of going over with the
+caravan, went back along the rim of the gorge in the
+pine forest where he could look across the river to the
+hill on which we had hunted in the morning. With his
+field glasses he discovered five gorals in an open meadow,
+and opened fire. It was long shooting but the animals
+did not know which way to run, and he killed three of
+the herd before they disappeared. Our first day had,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_301">- 301 -</span>
+therefore, netted us one deer and four gorals which was
+better than at any other camp we had had in China.</p>
+
+<p>We realized from the first day's work that Hui-yao
+would prove to be a wonderful hunting ground, and the
+two weeks we spent there justified all our hopes. At
+other places the cover was so dense or the country so
+rough that it was necessary to depend entirely upon
+dogs and untrained natives, but here the animals were
+on open hillsides where they could be still hunted with
+success. Moreover, we had an opportunity to learn
+something about the habits of the animals for we could
+watch them with glasses from the opposite side of the
+river when they were quite unconscious of our presence.</p>
+
+<p>There was only one day of our stay at Hui-yao that
+we did not bring in one or more gorals and even after
+we had obtained an unrivaled series, dozens were left.
+Shooting the animals from across the river was rather
+an unsportsmanlike way of hunting but it was a very
+effective method of collecting the particular specimens
+we needed for the Museum series. The distance was so
+great that the gorals were unable to tell from where the
+bullets were coming and almost any number of shots
+might be had before the animals made for cover. It
+became simply a case of long range target shooting at
+seldom less than three hundred yards.</p>
+
+<p>Still hunting on the cliffs was quite a different matter,
+however, and was as good sport as I have ever had.
+The rocks and open meadow slopes were so precipitous
+that there was very real danger every moment, for one
+misstep would send a man rolling hundreds of feet to
+the bottom where he would inevitably be killed.</p>
+
+<p>The gorals soon learned to lie motionless along the
+sheerest cliffs or to hide in the rank grass, and it took
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_302">- 302 -</span>
+close work to find them. I used most frequently to ride
+from camp to the river, send back the horse by a <i>mafu</i>,
+and work along the face of the rock wall with my two
+native boys. Their eyesight was wonderful and they
+often discovered gorals lying among the rocks when I
+had missed them entirely with my powerful prism
+binoculars. Their eyes had never been dimmed by
+study and I suppose were as keen as those of primitive
+man who possibly hunted gorals or their relatives thousands
+of years ago over these same hills.</p>
+
+<p>There were many glorious hunts and it would be
+wearisome were I to describe them all, but one afternoon
+stands out in my memory above the others. It
+was a brilliant day, and about four o'clock I rode away
+from camp, across the rice fields and up the grassy valley
+to the long sweep of open meadow on the rim of the
+river gorge.</p>
+
+<p>Sending back the horse, "Achi," my native hunter,
+and I crawled carefully to a jutting point of rocks and
+lay face down to inspect the cliffs above and to the left.
+With my glasses I scanned every inch of the gray wall,
+but could not discover a sign of life. Glancing at Achi
+I saw him gazing intently at the rock which I had just
+examined, and in a moment he whispered excitedly
+"<i>gnai-yang</i>." By putting both hands to the side of his
+head he indicated that the animal was lying down, and
+although he pointed with my rifle, it was full five minutes
+before I could discover the goral flat upon his belly
+against the cliff, with head stretched out, and fore legs
+doubled beneath his body. He was sound asleep in
+the sun and looked as though he might remain forever.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" id="img_f302a" style="width: 365px;">
+ <img src="images/img_f302a.png" width="365" height="286" alt="" />
+ <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">A Sambur Killed at Wa-tien</span></div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" id="img_f302b" style="width: 363px;">
+ <img src="images/img_f302b.png" width="363" height="285" alt="" />
+ <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">The Head of a Muntjac</span></div>
+</div>
+
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_303">- 303 -</span></p>
+
+<p>By signs Achi indicated that we were to climb up
+above and circle around the cliff to a ragged promontory
+which jutted into space within a hundred yards of
+the animal. It was a good three quarters of an hour
+before we peered cautiously between two rocks opposite
+the ledge where the goral had been asleep. The
+animal was gone. We looked at each other in blank
+amazement and then began a survey of the ground
+below.</p>
+
+<p>Halfway down the mountain-side Achi discovered the
+ram feeding in an open meadow and we began at once
+to make our way down the face of the cliff. It was
+dangerous going, but we gained the meadow in safety
+and worked cautiously up to a grassy ridge where the
+goral had been standing. Again we crawled like snakes
+among the rocks and again an empty slope of waving
+grass met our eyes. The goral had disappeared, and
+even Achi could not discover a sign of life upon the
+meadow.</p>
+
+<p>With an exclamation of disgust I got to my feet and
+looked around. Instantly there was a rattle of stones
+and a huge goral leaped out of the grass thirty yards
+away and dashed up the hill. I threw up my rifle and
+shot hurriedly, chipping a bit of rock a foot behind the
+animal. Swearing softly at my carelessness, I threw in
+another shell, selected a spot in front of the ram, and
+fired. The splendid animal sank in its tracks without
+a quiver, shot through the base of the neck.</p>
+
+<p>I had just ejected the empty shell when Achi seized
+me by the arm, whispering "<i>gnai-yang, gnai-yang, gnai-yang,
+na, na, na, na</i>" and pointing to the cliffs two
+hundred yards above us. I looked up just in time to
+see another goral flash behind a rock on the very summit
+of the ridge. An instant later he appeared again and
+stopped broadside on with his noble head thrown up,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_304">- 304 -</span>
+silhouetted against the sky. It was a perfect target
+and, resting my rifle on a flat rock, I covered the animal
+with the white bead and centered it in the rear
+sight. As I touched the hair trigger and the roar of
+the high-power shell crashed back from the face of the
+cliff, the animal leaped with legs straight out, whirling
+over and over down the meadow and bringing up
+against a boulder not twenty yards from the first goral.</p>
+
+<p>That night as I walked over the hills in the cool dusk
+I would not have changed my lot with any man on earth.
+The breathless excitement of the stalk and the wild thrill
+of exultation at the clean kill of two splendid rams were
+still rioting in my veins. I came out of the valley and
+across the rice fields to the blazing camp fire. Yvette
+ran to the edge of the grove, her hands filled with wet
+photographic negatives. "How many?" she called.
+"Two," I answered, "and both big ones. How many
+for you?" "Fourteen color plates," she sung back
+happily, "and all good."</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_305">- 305 -</span></p>
+
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXXVII">CHAPTER XXXVII</h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class="caption3">SEROW AND SAMBUR</p>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">We</span> had a delightful visit from Mr. Grierson during
+our first week in camp. He rode out on Thursday afternoon
+and remained until Sunday, bringing us mail,
+war news, and fresh vegetables, and returning with
+goral meat for all the foreigners in Teng-yueh. On the
+afternoon of his visit I had killed three monkeys which
+represented a different species from any we had obtained
+before. They were the Indian baboon (<i>Macacus rhesus</i>)
+and were probably like those of the Salween River at
+Changlung.</p>
+
+<p>I found two great troupes of the monkeys running
+along the opposite river bank. The first herd was climbing
+up the almost perpendicular rock walls, swinging
+on the bushes and sometimes almost disappearing in
+the tufts of grass. I could not approach nearer than
+one hundred and fifty yards and did some very bad
+shooting at the little beasts, but a running monkey at
+that distance is a pretty uncertain mark, and it requires
+a much better shot than I am to register more hits than
+misses. I did kill two, but both dropped into the river
+and promptly sank, so that I gave it up.</p>
+
+<p>Less than a half mile farther on another and larger
+troupe appeared among the boulders just at the water's
+edge. Profiting by my experience, I kept out of sight
+among the bushes and watched the animals play about
+until one hopped to a rock and sat quietly for an instant.
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_306">- 306 -</span>
+I got six in this way, but we were able to recover only
+three of them from the water.</p>
+
+<p>Heller shot three muntjac at Hui-yao, besides the
+doe which he killed on the first day. One of the largest
+bucks had a pair of beautiful antlers three and one half
+inches long from the burr to the tip. The skin-covered
+projections, or pedicels, of the frontal bone, from the
+summits of which the antlers grow, measured two and
+one-half inches from the skull to the burrs. Evidently
+the muntjac are somewhat irregular in shedding for, although
+they were all in full summer pelage, two already
+had lost their antlers while the other had not. I can
+think of no more delicious meat than the flesh of these
+little deer and they seem to be as highly esteemed by
+the English sportsmen of India as they are by the foreigners
+of China.</p>
+
+<p>I did not see a muntjac while at Hui-yao, but was
+fortunate in killing a splendid coal-black serow which
+represents a subspecies new to science; although the
+natives said that serow were known to occur in the thick
+jungle on the south side of the river, none had been seen
+for years. Heller and I had gone to this part of the
+gorge to hunt for a troupe of monkeys which he had
+located on the previous day. We had separated. Heller
+keeping close to the water while I skirted the cliffs near
+the summit not far from the road which led through the
+pine forest.</p>
+
+<p>I was walking just under the rim of the gorge when
+suddenly with a snort a large animal dashed out of a
+thicket below and to the left. I caught a glimpse of a
+great coal-black body and a pair of short curved horns
+as the beast disappeared in a shallow gully, and realized
+that it was a serow. A few seconds later it reappeared,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_307">- 307 -</span>
+running directly away from me along the upper edge
+of the gorge. I fired and the animal dropped, gave
+a convulsive twist, rolled over, and plunged into the
+cañon.</p>
+
+<p>As the serow disappeared we heard a chorus of excited
+yells from below, and it was evident that some
+natives near the water had seen it fall. I had slight hope
+that they might have rescued it from the river, but my
+heart was heavy as we worked along the cliff trying
+to find a place where it was possible to descend. A
+wood cutter whom we discovered a short distance away
+guided us down a trail so steep that it seemed impossible
+for a human being to walk along it, and in proof
+I slid the last half of the way to the rocks at the river's
+edge, narrowly escaping a broken neck.</p>
+
+<p>When we reached the stream it was only to find a
+flat wall against which the water surged in a mass of
+white foam, separating us from the place where the
+serow had fallen. I tried to wade around the rock
+but in two steps the water was above my waist. It was
+evident that we would have to swim, and I began to
+undress, inviting Achi and the wood cutter to follow;
+the former refused, but the latter pulled off his few
+clothes with considerable hesitation.</p>
+
+<p>It was a swim of only about forty feet around the
+face of the cliff but the current was strong and it was
+no easy matter to fight my way to the other side. After
+I had climbed out upon the rocks I called to the wood
+cutter to follow and he slipped into the water. Evidently
+the current was more than he had bargained for and a
+look of fear crossed his face, but he went manfully at it.</p>
+
+<p>He had almost reached the rock on which I was
+standing with outstretched hand when his strength
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_308">- 308 -</span>
+seemed suddenly to go and he cried out in terror. I
+jumped into the water, hanging to the rocks with one
+hand and letting my legs float out behind. The wood
+cutter just managed to reach my big toe, to which he
+clung as if it had in reality been the straw of the drowning
+man and I dragged him up stream until, to my intense
+relief, he could grasp the rocks.</p>
+
+<p>We picked our way among the boulders for a few
+yards and suddenly came upon the serow lying partly
+in the water. I felt like dancing with delight but the
+sharp rocks were not conducive to any such demonstrations
+and I merely yelled to Achi who understood from
+the tone, if not from my words, that the animal was
+safe.</p>
+
+<p>The men who had shouted when the animal fell over
+the cliff were only fifty feet away, but they too were
+separated from it by a wall of rock and surging water.
+They said that there was an easier way up the cliff
+than the one by which we had descended, and prepared
+a line of tough vines, one end of which they let down to
+us. We made it fast to the serow and I kept a second
+vine rope in my hands, swimming beside the animal as
+they dragged it to the other shore. It was landed safely
+and the wood cutter was hauled over by the same means.</p>
+
+<p>I had intended to swim back for my clothes but discovered
+that Achi had disappeared, taking my garments
+and those of the wood cutter with him. He evidently
+intended to meet us on the hilltop, but it left us in
+the rather awkward predicament of making our way
+through the thick brush with only the proverbial smile
+and minus even the necktie.</p>
+
+<p>The men fastened together the serow's four legs,
+slipped a pole beneath them and toiled up the steep
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_309">- 309 -</span>
+slope preceded by a naked brown figure and followed
+by a white one. The side of the gorge was covered with
+vines and creepers, many of them thorny, and pushing
+through them with no bodily protection was far from
+comfortable.</p>
+
+<p>When we arrived at the road on the rim of the gorge
+I was dismayed to find that Achi was not there with my
+clothes. The wood cutter did not appear to be greatly
+worried and indicated that we would find him farther
+up the road. I walked on dubiously, expecting every
+second to meet some person, and sure enough, a Chinese
+woman suddenly appeared over a little hill. I dived
+into the tall ferns beside the road, burrowing like a
+rabbit, and from the frightened way in which she hurried
+past, she must have thought she had seen one of her
+ancestral spirits stalking abroad. We eventually found
+the boy, and, decently dressed, I faced the world again
+with confidence and happiness.</p>
+
+<p>On the way back to camp we saw a goral on the
+cliffs across the river. It was high up and fully three
+hundred and fifty yards away but, of course, quite unconscious
+of our presence. My first two shots struck
+close beside the animal, but at the third it rolled over
+and over down the hill, lodging among the rocks just
+above the river.</p>
+
+<p>Our entry into camp was triumphal, for fully half
+the village acted as an escort to the serow, an animal
+which few had ever seen. It was a female, and probably
+weighed about two hundred and fifty pounds. The
+mane was short and black and strikingly unlike the long
+white manes of the Snow Mountain serows; the horns
+were almost smooth. Getting this specimen was one of
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_310">- 310 -</span>
+the lucky chances which sometimes come to a sportsman,
+for one might hunt for weeks in the same place without
+ever seeing another serow, as the jungle is exceedingly
+dense and the cliffs so steep that it is impossible to walk
+except in a few spots. The animal had been feeding on
+the new grass just at the edge of the heavy cover and
+probably had been sleeping under a bush when she was
+disturbed.</p>
+
+<p>Besides mammals and birds we made a fairly good
+collection of reptiles and lizards at Hui-yao, but in all
+other parts of the province which we visited they were
+exceedingly scarce. In fact, I have never been in a
+place where there were so few reptiles and batrachians.
+We obtained only one species of poisonous snake here.
+It was a small green viper which we sometimes saw
+coiled on a low bush watching mouse holes in the grass.
+Several species of nonpoisonous snakes were more common
+but were nowhere really abundant.</p>
+
+<p>We left Hui-yao the day after I killed the serow for
+a village called Wa-tien where there was a report of
+sambur. None of us had any real hope of finding the
+huge deer after our former unsuccessful hunts, but we
+camped in the early afternoon on an open hilltop five
+miles from Wa-tien where the natives assured us the
+animals often came to eat the young rice during the
+night.</p>
+
+<p>We engaged four men with three dogs as hunters,
+but awoke to find a dense fog blanketing the valley and
+mountains. It was not until half past nine that the gray
+mist yielded to the sun and left the hills clear enough
+for us to hunt. We climbed a wooded ridge directly
+behind the camp and skirted the edge of a heavily forested
+ravine which the men wished to drive.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_311">- 311 -</span></p>
+
+<p>Heller took a position in a bean field while I climbed
+to a sharp ridge above and beyond him. In less than
+half an hour the dogs began to yelp in an uncertain
+way. I saw one of them running down hill, nose to
+the ground, and a few seconds later Heller fired twice
+in quick succession. Two sambur had skirted the edge
+of the wood less than one hundred yards away, but he
+had missed with both shots.</p>
+
+<p>The trail led into a deep ravine filled with dense
+underbrush. In a few moments the dogs began to yelp
+again and, while Heller remained on the hillside to watch
+the open fields, I followed the hounds along the creek
+bed. Suddenly the whiplike crack of his Savage 260-800
+rifle sounded five times in quick succession just above
+our heads, and we climbed hurriedly out of the gorge.</p>
+
+<p>Heller shouted that he had fired at a huge sambur
+running along the edge of a bean field but the animal
+showed no sign of being hit. We easily picked up the
+trail in the soft earth and in a few moments found
+several drops of blood, showing that at least one bullet
+had found its mark. The blood soon ceased and we
+began to wonder if the sambur had not been merely
+scratched.</p>
+
+<p>Heller had seen the deer disappear in a second ravine,
+a branch of the one out of which it had first been driven,
+and while he watched the upper side I worked my way
+to the bottom to look for tracks. A few moments later
+the natives began to shout excitedly just above me, and
+Heller called out that they had found the deer, which
+was lying stone dead half way down the side of the gorge
+in a mass of thick ferns. The sambur had been hit only
+once but the powerful Savage bullet had crashed
+through the shoulder into the lungs; it was quite
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_312">- 312 -</span>
+sufficient to do the work even on such a huge animal and
+the deer had run less than one hundred yards from the
+place where it had been shot.</p>
+
+<p>It was a splendid male, carrying a magnificent pair
+of antlers which measured twenty-seven inches in length.
+The deer was about the size of an American wapiti, or
+elk, and must have weighed at least seven hundred
+pounds, for it required eight men to lift it. The Chinese
+hunters were wild with excitement, but especially so
+when we began to eviscerate the animal, for they wished
+to save the blood which is considered of great medicinal
+value. They filled caps, sacks, bamboo joints, and every
+receptacle which they could find after each man had
+drunk all he could possibly force down his throat and
+had eaten the huge clots which choked the thorax.</p>
+
+<p>When the sambur was brought to camp a regular
+orgy was held by our servants, <i>mafus</i>, and dozens of
+villagers who gathered to buy, beg, or steal some of the
+blood. Our interpreter, Wu, took the heart as his perquisite,
+carefully extracted the blood, and dried it in a
+basin. The liver also seemed to be an especial desideratum,
+and in fact every part of the viscera was saved
+Because the antlers were hard they were not considered
+of especial value, but had they been in the velvet we
+should have had to guard them closely; then they would
+have been worth about one hundred dollars (Mexican).</p>
+
+<p>We expected from our easy hunt of the morning that
+it would not be difficult to get sambur, and indeed,
+Heller did see another in the afternoon but failed to
+kill it. Unfortunately, a relative of one of the hunters
+died suddenly during the night and all the men went
+off with their dogs to the burial feast which lasted several
+days, and we were not able to find any other good
+hounds.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" id="img_f312a" style="width: 366px;">
+ <img src="images/img_f312a.png" width="366" height="279" alt="" />
+ <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">A Mountain Chair</span></div>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" id="img_f312b" style="width: 363px;">
+ <img src="images/img_f312b.png" width="363" height="283" alt="" />
+ <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">The Waterfall at Teng-yueh</span></div>
+</div>
+
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_313">- 313 -</span></p>
+
+<p>There were undoubtedly several sambur in the vicinity
+of our camp but they fed entirely during the
+night and spent the day in such thick cover that it was
+impossible to drive them out except with good beaters
+or dogs. We hunted faithfully every morning and
+afternoon but did not get another shot and, after a
+week, moved camp to the base of a great mountain
+range six miles away near a Liso village.</p>
+
+<p>The scenery in this region is magnificent. The mountain
+range is the same on which we hunted at Ho-mu-shu
+and reaches a height of 11,000 feet near Wa-tien.
+It is wild and uninhabited, and the splendid forests
+must shelter a good deal of game.</p>
+
+<p>The foothills on which we were camped are low wooded
+ridges rising out of open cultivated valleys, which
+often run into the jungle-filled ravines in which the
+sambur sleep. Why the deer should occur in this particular
+region and not in the neighboring country is a
+mystery unless it is the proximity of the great forested
+mountain range. But in similar places only a few miles
+away, where there is an abundance of cover, the natives
+said the animals had never been seen, and neither were
+they known on the opposite side of the mountain range
+where the Teng-yueh-Ta-li Fu road crosses the Salween
+valley.</p>
+
+<p>On May 20, we started back to Hui-yao to spend three
+or four days hunting monkeys before we returned to
+Teng-yueh to pack our specimens and end the field
+work of the Expedition. On the way my wife and I
+became separated from the caravan but as we had one
+of our servants for a guide we were not uneasy.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_314">- 314 -</span></p>
+
+<p>The man was a lazy, stupid fellow named Le Ping-sang
+(which we had changed to "Leaping Frog" because
+he never did leap for any cause whatever), and
+before long he had us hopelessly lost.</p>
+
+<p>It would appear easy enough to ask the way from
+the natives, but the Chinese are so suspicious that they
+often will intentionally misdirect a stranger. They do
+not know what business the inquirer may have in the
+village to which he wishes to go and therefore, just on
+general principles, they send him off in the wrong direction.</p>
+
+<p>Apparently this is what happened to us, for a farmer
+of whom we inquired the way directed us to a road
+at nearly right angles to the one we should have taken,
+and it was late in the afternoon before we finally found
+the caravan.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_315">- 315 -</span></p>
+
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="CHAPTER_XXXVIII">CHAPTER XXXVIII</h2>
+</div>
+
+<p class="caption3">LAST DAYS IN CHINA</p>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">It</span> was of paramount importance to pack our specimens
+before the beginning of the summer rains. They
+might be expected to break in full violence any day
+after June 1, and when they really began it would
+be impossible to get our boxes to Bhamo, for virtually
+all caravan travel ceases during the wet season. Therefore
+our second stay at Hui-yao was short and we returned
+to Teng-yueh on May 24, ending the active field
+work of the Expedition exactly a year from the time
+it began with our trip up the Min River to Yen-ping
+in Fukien Province.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Grierson had kindly invited us again to become
+his guests and no place ever seemed more delightful,
+after our hot and dusty ride, than his beautiful garden
+and cool, shady verandah where a dainty tea was served.
+Our days in Teng-yueh were busy ones, for after the
+specimens were packed and the boxes sealed it was necessary
+to wrap them in waterproof covers; moreover,
+the equipment had to be sorted and sold or discarded,
+a caravan engaged, and nearly a thousand feet of motion-picture
+film developed. This was done in the spacious
+dark room connected with Mr. Grierson's house
+which offered a welcome change from the cramped quarters
+of the tent which we had used for so many months.</p>
+
+<p>Much of the success of our motion film lay in the
+fact that it was developed within a short time after
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_316">- 316 -</span>
+exposure, for had we attempted to bring or send it to
+Shanghai, the nearest city with facilities for doing such
+work, it would inevitably have been ruined by the climatic
+changes. Although cinematograph photography
+requires an elaborate and expensive outfit and is a
+source of endless work, nevertheless, the value of an
+actual moving record of the life of such remote regions
+is worth all the trouble it entails.</p>
+
+<p>The Paget natural color plates proved to be eminently
+satisfactory and were among the most interesting
+results of the expedition. The stereoscopic effects and
+the faithful reproduction of the delicate atmospheric
+shading in the photographs are remarkable. Although
+the plates had been subjected to a variety of climatic
+conditions and temperatures by the time the last ones
+were exposed in Burma, a year and a half after their
+manufacture, they showed no signs of deterioration even
+when the ordinary negatives which we brought with us
+from America had been ruined. The other photographs,
+some of which are reproduced in this book, speak for
+themselves.</p>
+
+<p>The entire collections of the Expedition were packed
+in forty-one cases and included the following specimens:</p>
+
+<table summary="data">
+<tr>
+ <td class="tdr">2,100</td>
+ <td class="tdl">mammals</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td class="tdr">800</td>
+ <td class="tdl">birds</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td class="tdr">200</td>
+ <td class="tdl">reptiles and batrachians</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td class="tdr">200</td>
+ <td class="tdl">skeletons and formalin preparations for
+ anatomical study</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td class="tdr">150</td>
+ <td class="tdl">Paget natural color plates</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td class="tdr">500</td>
+ <td class="tdl">photographic negatives</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+ <td class="tdr">10,000</td>
+ <td class="tdl">feet of motion-picture film.</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>Since the Expedition was organized primarily for
+the study of the mammalian fauna and its distribution,
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_317">- 317 -</span>
+our efforts were directed very largely toward this
+branch of science, and other specimens were gathered
+only when conditions were especially favorable. I believe
+that the mammal collection is the most extensive
+ever taken from China by a single continuous expedition,
+and a large percentage undoubtedly will prove to
+represent species new to science. Our tents were pitched
+in 108 different spots from 15,000 feet to 1,400 feet
+above sea level, and because of this range in altitudes,
+the fauna represented by our specimens is remarkably
+varied. Moreover, during our nine months in Yün-nan
+we spent 115 days in the saddle, riding 2,000 miles on
+horse or mule back, largely over small roads or trails
+in little known parts of the province.</p>
+
+<p>In Teng-yueh we were entertained most hospitably
+and the leisure hours were made delightful by golf, tennis,
+riding, and dinners. Mr. Grierson was a charming
+host who placed himself, as well as his house and servants,
+at our disposal, utter strangers though we were,
+and we shall never forget his welcome.</p>
+
+<p>We decided to take four man-chairs to Bhamo because
+of the rain which was expected every day, and
+the coolies made us very comfortable upon our sleeping
+bags which were swung between two bamboo poles and
+covered with a strip of yellow oil-cloth. They were the
+regulation Chinese "mountain schooner," at which we
+had so often laughed, but they proved to be infinitely
+more desirable than riding in the rain.</p>
+
+<p>With the forty-one cases of specimens we left Teng-yueh
+on June 1, behind a caravan of thirty mules for the
+eight-day journey to Bhamo on the outskirts of civilization.
+Our chair-coolies were miserable specimens of
+humanity. They were from S'suchuan Province and
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_318">- 318 -</span>
+were all unmarried which alone is almost a crime in
+China. Every cent of money, earned by the hardest
+sort of work, they spent in drinking, gambling, and
+smoking opium. As Wu tersely put it "they make
+how much—spend how much!"</p>
+
+<p>About every two hours they would deposit us unceremoniously
+in the midst of a filthy village and disappear
+into some dark den in spite of our remonstrances.
+We would grumble and fume and finally, getting out
+of our chairs, peer into the hole. In the half light we
+would see them huddled on a "kang" over tiny yellow
+flames sucking at their pipes. At tiffin each one would
+stretch out under a tree with a stone for a pillow and
+his broad straw hat propped up to screen him from the
+wind. With infinite care he would extract a few black
+grains from a dirty box, mix them with a little water,
+and cook them over an alcohol lamp until the opium
+bubbled and was almost ready to drop. Then placing
+it lovingly in the bowl of his pipe he would hold it against
+the flame and draw in long breaths of the sickly-sweet
+smoke. The men could work all day without food, but
+opium was a prime necessity.</p>
+
+<p>It was almost impossible to start them in the morning
+and it became my regular duty to make the rounds
+of the filthy holes in which they slept, seize them by the
+collars and drag them into the street. Force made the
+only appeal to their deadened senses and we were
+heartily sick of them before we reached Bhamo.</p>
+
+<p>The road to Bhamo is a gradual descent from five
+thousand feet to almost sea level. Because of the fever
+the valleys are largely inhabited by "Chinese Shans"
+who differ in dress and customs from the Southern
+Shans of the Nam-ting River. Few of the men were
+tattooed and the women all wore the enormous cylindrical
+turban which we had seen once before in the Salween Valley.</p>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" id="map_i_sm" style="width: 638px;">
+ <a href="images/map_i_lg.png"><img src="images/map_i_sm.png" width="638" height="632" alt="" /></a>
+ <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">Map I:</span> The red line indicates the travels
+ of the Expedition<br />
+ <span class="smaller">Click on image to view larger sized.</span></div>
+</div>
+
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_319">- 319 -</span></p>
+
+<p>At noon of the fifth day we crossed the Yün-nan
+border into Burma. It is a beautiful spot where a foaming
+mountain torrent rushes out of the jungle in a series
+of picturesque cascades and loses itself in a living wall
+of green. The stream is spanned by a splendid iron
+bridge from which a fine wide road of crushed stone
+leads all the way to Bhamo.</p>
+
+<p>What a difference between the country we were leaving
+and the one we were about to enter! It is the
+"deadly parallel" of the old East and the new West. On
+the one side is China with her flooded roads and bridges
+of rotting timber, the outward and visible signs of a
+nation still living in the Middle Ages, fighting progress,
+shackled by the iron doctrines of Confucius to the long
+dead past. Across the river is English Burma, with
+eyes turned forward, ever watchful of the welfare of
+her people, her iron bridges and macadam roads representing
+the very essence of modern thought and progress.</p>
+
+<p>With paternal care of her officials the British government
+has provided <i>dâk</i> (mail) bungalows at the end
+of each day's journey which are open to every foreign
+traveler. They are comfortable little houses set on
+piles. Each one has a spacious living room, with
+a large teakwood table and inviting lounge chairs. In
+a corner stands a cabinet of cutlery, china, and glass,
+all clean and in perfect order. The two bedrooms are
+provided with adjoining baths and a covered passageway
+connects the kitchen with the house. All is ready
+for the tired traveler, and a boy can be hired for a
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_320">- 320 -</span>
+trifling sum to make the punkah "punk." Such comforts
+can only be appreciated when one has journeyed for
+months in a country where they do not exist.</p>
+
+<p>Our last night on the road was spent at a <i>dâk</i> bungalow
+near a village only a few miles from Bhamo. We
+were seated at the window, when, with a rattle of wheels,
+the first cart we had seen in nine months passed by.
+That cart brought to us more forcibly than any other
+thing a realization that the Expedition was ended and
+that we were standing on the threshold of civilization.</p>
+
+<p>As Yvette turned from the window her eyes were
+wet with unshed tears, and a lump had risen in my
+throat. Not all the pleasures of the city, the love of
+friends or relatives, could make us wish to end the wild,
+free life of the year gone by. Silently we left the house
+and walked across the sunlit road into a grove of graceful,
+drooping palms; a white pagoda gleamed between
+the trees, and the pungent odor of wood smoke filled
+the air.</p>
+
+<p>The spot was redolent with the atmosphere of the lazy
+East; the East which, like the fabled "Lorelei," weaves
+a mystic spell about the wanderer whom she has loved
+and taken to her heart, while yet he feels it not. And
+when he would cast her off and return to his own again
+she knows full well that her subtle charm will bring
+him back once more.</p>
+
+<hr class="tb" />
+
+<p>The next morning we entered Bhamo. It is a city of
+low, cool houses, wide lawns and tree-decked streets
+built on the bank of the muddy Irawadi River. Only
+a few miles away the railroad reaches Katha, and palatial
+steamers run to Mandalay and Rangoon. We
+called upon Mr. Farmer, the Deputy Commissioner,
+who offered the hospitality of the "Circuit House" and
+in the evening took us with him to the Club.</p>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" id="map_ii_sm" style="width: 571px;">
+ <a href="images/map_ii_lg.png"><img src="images/map_ii_sm.png" width="571" height="637" alt="" /></a>
+ <div class="fig_caption"><span class="smcap">Map II:</span> Route of the Expedition in Yün-nan<br />
+ <span class="smaller">Click on image to view larger sized.</span></div>
+</div>
+
+
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_321">- 321 -</span></p>
+
+<p>A military band was playing and men in white, well-dressed
+women, and officers in uniform strolled about or
+sipped iced drinks beside the tennis court. We felt
+strange and shy but doubtless we seemed more strange
+to them for we were newly come from a far country
+which they saw only as a mystic, unknown land.</p>
+
+<p>On June 9, at noon, we embarked for the 1,200-mile
+journey to Rangoon, exactly nine months after
+we had ridden away from Yün-nan Fu toward the
+Mountain of Eternal Snow. Our further travels need
+not be related here. When we reached civilization we
+expected that our transport difficulties were ended; instead
+they had only begun. India was well-nigh isolated
+from the Pacific and to expose our valuable collection
+to the attacks of German pirates in the Mediterranean
+and Atlantic was not to be considered even
+though it necessitated traveling two thirds around the
+world to reach America safely.</p>
+
+<p>We left Rangoon for Calcutta, crossed India with
+all our baggage to Bombay, and after a seemingly endless
+wait eventually succeeded in arriving at Hongkong
+by way of Singapore. There we separated from our
+faithful Wu and sent him to his home in Foochow. It
+was hard to say "good-by" to Wu, for his efficient service,
+his enthusiastic interest in the work of the Expedition,
+and, above all, his willingness to do whatever needed
+to be done, had won our gratitude and affection. We
+ourselves went northward to Japan, across the Pacific
+to Vancouver, and overland to New York, arriving on
+October 1, 1917, nearly nineteen months from the time
+we left. We were never separated from our collections
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_322">- 322 -</span>
+for, had we left them, I doubt if they would ever have
+reached America. It was difficult enough to gather
+them in the field, but infinitely more so to guide the
+forty-one cases through the tangled shipping net of a
+war-mad world.</p>
+
+<p>They reached New York without the loss of a single
+specimen and are now being prepared in the American
+Museum of Natural History for the study which will
+place the scientific results of the Asiatic Zoölogical
+Expedition before the public.</p>
+
+<hr class="tb" />
+
+<p>The story of our travels is at an end. Once more
+we are indefinable units in a vast work-a-day world,
+bound by the iron chains of convention to the customs
+of civilized men and things. The glorious days in our
+beloved East are gone, and yet, to us, the Orient seems
+not far away, for the miles of land and water can be
+traversed in a thought. Again we stand before our
+tent with the fragrant breath of the pines about us,
+watching the glistening peaks of the Snow Mountain
+turn purple and gold in the setting sun; again, we feel
+the mystic spell of the jungle, or hear the low, sweet
+tones of a gibbon's call. We have only to shut our eyes
+to bring back a picture of the bleak barriers of the Forbidden
+Land or the sunlit streets of a Burma village.
+Thank God, we saw it all together and such blessed
+memories can never die.</p>
+
+
+<hr class="chap x-ebookmaker-drop" />
+
+<div class="chapter">
+<p><span class="pagenum" id="Page_323">- 323 -</span></p>
+
+<h2 class="nobreak" id="INDEX">INDEX</h2>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>
+Abercrombie & Fitch Co., <a href="#Page_76">76</a><br />
+Abertsen, Mr., Chinese Customs, employee of, <a href="#Page_290">290</a>, <a href="#Page_294">294</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">discovered hunting ground near Hui-yao, <a href="#Page_298">298</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">killed two gorals, <a href="#Page_298">298</a></span><br />
+Africa, <a href="#Page_4">4</a><br />
+Akeley, Carl E., <a href="#Page_4">4</a>, <a href="#Page_76">76</a><br />
+Alaska, <a href="#Page_4">4</a><br />
+Allen, Dr. J. A., <a href="#Page_x">x</a><br />
+American flags, <a href="#Page_43">43</a><br />
+American Legation, Peking, <a href="#Page_xi">xi</a><br />
+American Museum Journal, <a href="#Page_ix">ix</a><br />
+American Museum of Natural History, <a href="#Page_2">2</a>, <a href="#Page_5">5</a>, <a href="#Page_77">77</a>, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">trustees of, specimens being prepared at, <a href="#Page_321">321</a></span><br />
+Americans, <a href="#Page_11">11</a><br />
+Ammunition, loss of, <a href="#Page_79">79</a><br />
+Amoy, <a href="#Page_16">16</a><br />
+<i>Anas boscas</i> (Mallard ducks), <a href="#Page_186">186</a><br />
+Anglo-Chinese College, <a href="#Page_4">4</a><br />
+Animal life, lack of, <a href="#Page_89">89</a><br />
+Annamits, <a href="#Page_78">78</a><br />
+Antlers, <a href="#Page_306">306</a>, <a href="#Page_312">312</a><br />
+Ape, gray (<i>Pygathrix</i>), <a href="#Page_255">255</a><br />
+<i>Apodemus</i> (white-footed mouse), <a href="#Page_122">122</a>, <a href="#Page_176">176</a><br />
+Asia, <a href="#Page_x">x</a><br />
+<i>Asia</i> Magazine, quoted from, <a href="#Page_152">152</a><br />
+Asiatic Zoölogical Expedition, <a href="#Page_2">2</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">members of, <a href="#Page_8">8</a></span><br />
+Assam, <a href="#Page_241">241</a><br />
+Assistants, <a href="#Page_4">4</a><br />
+A-tun-tzu, <a href="#Page_198">198</a>, <a href="#Page_294">294</a><br />
+<br />
+Babies, killing and selling of, <a href="#Page_206">206</a><br />
+Baboon, brown (<i>Macacus</i>), <a href="#Page_255">255</a><br />
+Baboon, Indian (<i>Macacus rhesus</i>), <a href="#Page_279">279</a><br />
+Bamboo chickens, <a href="#Page_26">26</a><br />
+Bandits, attack of, <a href="#Page_95">95</a><br />
+Bankhardt, Mr., <a href="#Page_82">82</a>, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href="#Page_42">42</a>, <a href="#Page_207">207</a><br />
+Bat apartment house, <a href="#Page_80">80</a><br />
+Bat cave, description of, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">experience of girl in, <a href="#Page_81">81</a></span><br />
+Bats, method of killing, <a href="#Page_80">80</a><br />
+Batrachians, <a href="#Page_310">310</a><br />
+Bear cubs (<i>Ursus tibetanus</i>), purchased at Teng-yueh, <a href="#Page_296">296</a><br />
+Bedding, <a href="#Page_93">93</a><br />
+Berger, Anna Katherine, acknowledgment to, <a href="#Page_xi">xi</a><br />
+Bering Strait, <a href="#Page_1">1</a><br />
+Bernheimer, Mr. and Mrs. Charles L., <a href="#Page_x">x</a><br />
+Betel nut, <a href="#Page_241">241</a>, <a href="#Page_242">242</a><br />
+Bhamo, <a href="#Page_294">294</a>, <a href="#Page_315">315</a>, <a href="#Page_317">317</a>, <a href="#Page_319">319</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">railroad from, <a href="#Page_81">81</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">road to, <a href="#Page_318">318</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description of, <a href="#Page_320">320</a></span><br />
+Big Ravine, description of, <a href="#Page_26">26</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">temples near, <a href="#Page_26">26</a></span><br />
+Birds, game, <a href="#Page_90">90</a><br />
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_324">- 324 -</span>
+<i>Blarina</i>, <a href="#Page_176">176</a><br />
+Boat, Chinese, eye on, <a href="#Page_15">15</a><br />
+Bode, Mr., <a href="#Page_99">99</a><br />
+Bohea Hills, <a href="#Page_64">64</a><br />
+Bound feet, <a href="#Page_34">34</a><br />
+Bowdoin, George, <a href="#Page_x">x</a><br />
+Bradley, Dr., <a href="#Page_78">78</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">established leper hospital at Paik-hoi, <a href="#Page_205">205</a></span><br />
+Brahmin priests, <a href="#Page_186">186</a><br />
+Brahminy docks, <a href="#Page_186">186</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">habits of, <a href="#Page_187">187</a></span><br />
+Bridge, suspension, description of, <a href="#Page_218">218</a><br />
+Bridges, rope, <a href="#Page_199">199</a><br />
+Brigand, seal of a pardoned, <a href="#Page_210">210</a><br />
+Brigandage, <a href="#Page_207">207</a>, <a href="#Page_208">208</a>, <a href="#Page_211">211</a><br />
+Brigands, <a href="#Page_86">86</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">beheading of, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">infest Yün-nan, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description of, <a href="#Page_96">96</a></span><br />
+British American Tobacco Co., Hongkong, <a href="#Page_97">97</a>, <a href="#Page_100">100</a><br />
+British East Africa, <a href="#Page_4">4</a><br />
+Brooke, Englishman, killed by Lolos, <a href="#Page_174">174</a><br />
+Buffaloes, <a href="#Page_265">265</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">water, <a href="#Page_218">218</a></span><br />
+Bui-tao, <a href="#Page_60">60</a>, <a href="#Page_61">61</a><br />
+Bureau of Foreign Affairs, Director of, <a href="#Page_x">x</a><br />
+Burial, expenses of, <a href="#Page_89">89</a><br />
+Burma, <a href="#Page_8">8</a>, <a href="#Page_91">91</a>, <a href="#Page_191">191</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">border of, <a href="#Page_197">197</a>, <a href="#Page_241">241</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">girls of, <a href="#Page_242">242</a>, <a href="#Page_248">248</a>, <a href="#Page_248">248</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">mammals caught near, <a href="#Page_250">250</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">frontier of, <a href="#Page_264">264</a>, <a href="#Page_265">265</a>, <a href="#Page_294">294</a>, <a href="#Page_316">316</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">boundary of, <a href="#Page_319">319</a></span><br />
+Burmans, <a href="#Page_289">289</a>, <a href="#Page_241">241</a><br />
+<br />
+Calcutta, <a href="#Page_297">297</a>, <a href="#Page_321">321</a><br />
+Caldwell, Rev. Harry R., <a href="#Page_xi">xi</a>, <a href="#Page_8">8</a>, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>, <a href="#Page_20">20</a>, <a href="#Page_21">21</a>, <a href="#Page_22">22</a>, <a href="#Page_28">28</a>, <a href="#Page_24">24</a>, <a href="#Page_26">26</a>, <a href="#Page_27">27</a>, <a href="#Page_28">28</a>, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">letter from, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">house of, <a href="#Page_86">86</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">stationed at Futsing, <a href="#Page_44">44</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">tiger hunting, method of, <a href="#Page_45">45</a>, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>, <a href="#Page_55">55</a>, <a href="#Page_56">56</a>, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>, <a href="#Page_64">64</a>, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">obtains serows at Yen-ping, <a href="#Page_142">142</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">purchases serow skins in Fukien, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>, <a href="#Page_152">152</a>, <a href="#Page_154">154</a>, <a href="#Page_207">207</a></span><br />
+California, <a href="#Page_8">8</a><br />
+<i>Callosciurus erythræus</i>, <a href="#Page_89">89</a>, <a href="#Page_280">280</a><br />
+Camera equipment, <a href="#Page_75">75</a><br />
+Canadian Pacific R.R. Co., Hongkong, General Passenger Agent of, <a href="#Page_xi">xi</a><br />
+Cantonese, chiefly of Shan stock, <a href="#Page_262">262</a><br />
+<i>Capricornulus crispus</i>, <a href="#Page_140">140</a><br />
+<i>Capricornis sumatrensis</i>, <a href="#Page_141">141</a><br />
+<i>Capricornis sumatrensis argyrochætes</i>, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>, <a href="#Page_141">141</a><br />
+<i>Capricornis sumatrensis milne-edwardsi</i>, <a href="#Page_141">141</a><br />
+Caravan, robbing of, <a href="#Page_96">96</a>; buying of, <a href="#Page_104">104</a>; renting of, <a href="#Page_104">104</a><br />
+Caravan ponies, <a href="#Page_104">104</a><br />
+Caravans, distance traveled by, <a href="#Page_158">158</a>, <a href="#Page_197">197</a><br />
+Cary, F. W., Commissioner of Customs, <a href="#Page_4">4</a>, <a href="#Page_77">77</a><br />
+<i>Casarca casarca</i> (ruddy sheldrake), <a href="#Page_186">186</a><br />
+Caverns, <a href="#Page_162">162</a><br />
+Central Asia, <a href="#Page_1">1</a><br />
+Central Asian plateau, <a href="#Page_1">1</a><br />
+<i>Cervus macneilli</i>, <a href="#Page_175">175</a><br />
+Chair-coolies, <a href="#Page_317">317</a><br />
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_325">- 325 -</span>
+Chairs, description of, <a href="#Page_92">92</a>, <a href="#Page_317">317</a><br />
+Chang, Dr., <a href="#Page_294">294</a><br />
+Chang-hu-fan, <a href="#Page_20">20</a>; night at, <a href="#Page_21">21</a><br />
+Changlung, <a href="#Page_273">273</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">ferry at, <a href="#Page_274">274</a>, <a href="#Page_281">281</a></span><br />
+Chien-chuan, <a href="#Page_198">198</a><br />
+Chi-li, <a href="#Page_7">7</a><br />
+China, <a href="#Page_1">1</a>, <a href="#Page_2">2</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">aboriginal inhabitants of, <a href="#Page_3">3</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">press, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">inland mission, <a href="#Page_78">78</a>, <a href="#Page_101">101</a></span><br />
+Chinaman, Cantonese, <a href="#Page_242">242</a><br />
+Chinese, Republic, <a href="#Page_xi">xi</a>, <a href="#Page_2">2</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">army of, <a href="#Page_7">7</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">face saving, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Foreign Office, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">screaming, habit of, <a href="#Page_15">15</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">lack of sympathy of, <a href="#Page_19">19</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">not affected by sun, <a href="#Page_22">22</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">love of companionship, <a href="#Page_22">22</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">bride of, <a href="#Page_69">69</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">wedding of, <a href="#Page_72">72</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">dress of, <a href="#Page_72">72</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Commissioner of Foreign Affairs, meeting with, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">education of, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">villages, description of, <a href="#Page_90">90</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">etiquette of, <a href="#Page_102">102</a>, <a href="#Page_158">158</a>, <a href="#Page_190">190</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">New Year, <a href="#Page_212">212</a>, <a href="#Page_213">213</a>, <a href="#Page_214">214</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">collecting debts of, <a href="#Page_216">216</a></span><br />
+Chipmunk (<i>Tamiops macclellandi</i>), <a href="#Page_230">230</a><br />
+Chi-yuen-kang, <a href="#Page_26">26</a>, <a href="#Page_27">27</a>, <a href="#Page_29">29</a><br />
+Chou Chou, <a href="#Page_99">99</a><br />
+Christians, native, persecution of, <a href="#Page_21">21</a><br />
+Christianity, lesson in, <a href="#Page_39">39</a><br />
+Christmas, <a href="#Page_195">195</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">celebration of, <a href="#Page_196">196</a></span><br />
+Chu-hsuing Fu, <a href="#Page_94">94</a>, <a href="#Page_204">204</a><br />
+Chung-tien, <a href="#Page_172">172</a>, <a href="#Page_175">175</a>, <a href="#Page_176">176</a>, <a href="#Page_183">183</a>, <a href="#Page_201">201</a><br />
+Civet (<i>Viverra</i>), <a href="#Page_246">246</a>, <a href="#Page_247">247</a><br />
+Clive, Captain, <a href="#Page_268">268</a>, <a href="#Page_270">270</a>, <a href="#Page_272">272</a><br />
+Clothing, <a href="#Page_75">75</a><br />
+Colgate, Mr. and Mrs. Sidney M., <a href="#Page_x">x</a><br />
+Collecting case, <a href="#Page_228">228</a><br />
+Color plates, <a href="#Page_240">240</a><br />
+Confucius, rules of, <a href="#Page_67">67</a><br />
+Cook, difficulty in obtaining, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description of, <a href="#Page_105">105</a></span><br />
+Coolies, <a href="#Page_54">54</a><br />
+Cormorants, <a href="#Page_280">280</a><br />
+Corn, <a href="#Page_91">91</a><br />
+Cows, used as burden-bearers by Chinese, <a href="#Page_218">218</a><br />
+Cranes, <a href="#Page_184">184</a>; habits of, <a href="#Page_185">185</a>, <a href="#Page_199">199</a>, <a href="#Page_236">236</a><br />
+Crossbows, <a href="#Page_229">229</a><br />
+Cui-kau, <a href="#Page_18">18</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description of, <a href="#Page_80">80</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Da-Da, <a href="#Page_45">45</a>, <a href="#Page_54">54</a><br />
+Daing-nei, <a href="#Page_54">54</a>, <a href="#Page_66">66</a><br />
+<i>Dâk</i> (mail) bungalows, <a href="#Page_319">319</a><br />
+Da-Ming, <a href="#Page_33">33</a><br />
+Darjeeling, <a href="#Page_144">144</a><br />
+Davies, Major H. R., <a href="#Page_ix">ix</a>, <a href="#Page_93">93</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">quoted, <a href="#Page_137">137</a>, <a href="#Page_138">138</a>, <a href="#Page_139">139</a>, <a href="#Page_191">191</a></span><br />
+Dead, burying of, <a href="#Page_151">151</a><br />
+Deer, <a href="#Page_246">246</a>, <a href="#Page_301">301</a>, <a href="#Page_312">312</a>, <a href="#Page_313">313</a><br />
+Deer, barking, <a href="#Page_63">63</a><br />
+Denby, Hon. Charles, <a href="#Page_9">9</a><br />
+Dennet, Tyler, quoted, <a href="#Page_152">152</a><br />
+D'Ollone, Major, member French Expedition, <a href="#Page_174">174</a><br />
+D'Orleans, Prince Henri, <a href="#Page_186">186</a><br />
+Dog, red, death of, <a href="#Page_135">135</a><br />
+Dogs, description of, <a href="#Page_115">115</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">for food, <a href="#Page_115">115</a></span><br />
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_326">- 326 -</span>
+Doumer, M., Governor-General of French Indo-China, <a href="#Page_93">93</a><br />
+Duai Uong, <a href="#Page_51">51</a><br />
+Ducks, <a href="#Page_90">90</a>, <a href="#Page_198">198</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">brahminy, shooting off 199</span><br />
+Dupontès, Georges Chemin, assistance of, to expedition, <a href="#Page_80">80</a><br />
+<br />
+Eastes, Mr., Consul, <a href="#Page_294">294</a><br />
+Education, foreign, <a href="#Page_71">71</a><br />
+<i>Elaphodus</i>, <a href="#Page_182">182</a><br />
+Elephants, <a href="#Page_219">219</a>, <a href="#Page_222">222</a><br />
+Elk, <a href="#Page_1">1</a><br />
+Ellsworth, Lincoln, <a href="#Page_x">x</a><br />
+Embry, Rev. and Mrs., China Inland Mission, members of, <a href="#Page_294">294</a><br />
+Empress Dowager, <a href="#Page_70">70</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">issued edict prohibiting opium growing, <a href="#Page_91">91</a></span><br />
+Equipment, purchase of, <a href="#Page_4">4</a><br />
+Erh Hai or Ta-li Fu Lake, <a href="#Page_199">199</a><br />
+Etiquette, <a href="#Page_102">102</a><br />
+Europe, <a href="#Page_1">1</a><br />
+European war, <a href="#Page_8">8</a><br />
+Evans, H. G., <a href="#Page_xi">xi</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">assistance of, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>, <a href="#Page_106">106</a>, <a href="#Page_186">186</a>, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>, <a href="#Page_298">298</a></span><br />
+Expedition, announcement of, <a href="#Page_5">5</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">applicants for positions on, <a href="#Page_5">5</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">results of, <a href="#Page_316">316</a></span><br />
+Expeditions, preliminary, <a href="#Page_2">2</a><br />
+Eye on Chinese boat, <a href="#Page_15">15</a><br />
+<br />
+Farmer, Mr., <a href="#Page_320">320</a><br />
+Fauna, mammalian, <a href="#Page_316">316</a><br />
+<i>Felis temmincki</i>, <a href="#Page_108">108</a><br />
+<i>Felis uncia</i>, <a href="#Page_108">108</a><br />
+Ferry, <a href="#Page_160">160</a><br />
+Fletcher, H. G., <a href="#Page_294">294</a>, <a href="#Page_295">295</a><br />
+Flying squirrel, <a href="#Page_108">108</a>, <a href="#Page_191">191</a><br />
+Foochow, <a href="#Page_8">8</a>, <a href="#Page_10">10</a>, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>, <a href="#Page_15">15</a>, <a href="#Page_16">16</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">foreign residents of, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">streets of, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>, <a href="#Page_23">23</a>, <a href="#Page_24">24</a>, <a href="#Page_85">85</a>, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">mail from, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">schools for native girls at, <a href="#Page_67">67</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">woman's college at, <a href="#Page_67">67</a>, <a href="#Page_206">206</a>, <a href="#Page_207">207</a>, <a href="#Page_209">209</a>, <a href="#Page_321">321</a></span><br />
+Food box, <a href="#Page_74">74</a><br />
+Foot binding, origin of, <a href="#Page_69">69</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">method of, <a href="#Page_70">70</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Natural Foot Society of, <a href="#Page_70">70</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">agitation against, <a href="#Page_71">71</a></span><br />
+Forbidden City, <a href="#Page_12">12</a><br />
+Ford, James B., <a href="#Page_x">x</a><br />
+Foreign Office, <a href="#Page_97">97</a><br />
+Forest conservation, lack of, <a href="#Page_88">88</a><br />
+Formosa, <a href="#Page_11">11</a><br />
+Forrest, Mr., <a href="#Page_294">294</a><br />
+Fossil animals, <a href="#Page_108">108</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">beds, <a href="#Page_108">108</a></span><br />
+Francolins, <a href="#Page_26">26</a><br />
+French Consul, <a href="#Page_78">78</a><br />
+Frick, Childs, <a href="#Page_x">x</a><br />
+Frick, Henry C, <a href="#Page_x">x</a><br />
+Fukien Province, China, <a href="#Page_8">8</a>, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="#Page_10">10</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">deforestation of, <a href="#Page_24">24</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">mammals of, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>, <a href="#Page_26">26</a>, <a href="#Page_28">28</a>, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">climate and temperature of, <a href="#Page_68">68</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">collecting in summer at, <a href="#Page_68">68</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">birds of, <a href="#Page_64">64</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">herpetology of, <a href="#Page_64">64</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">trapping for small mammals at, <a href="#Page_64">64</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">zoölogical study of, <a href="#Page_64">64</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">language of, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">travel in, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">servants in, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">serows hunted in, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>, <a href="#Page_204">204</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">missionary work in, <a href="#Page_207">207</a></span><br />
+Funeral customs, <a href="#Page_151">151</a>, <a href="#Page_158">158</a><br />
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_327">- 327 -</span>
+Futsing, <a href="#Page_43">43</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">blue tiger hunting at, <a href="#Page_54">54</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Galapagos Islands, <a href="#Page_4">4</a><br />
+<i>Gallus gallus</i>, <a href="#Page_247">247</a><br />
+<i>Gallus lafayetti</i>, <a href="#Page_248">248</a><br />
+<i>Gallus sonnerati</i>, <a href="#Page_248">248</a><br />
+<i>Gallus varius</i>, <a href="#Page_248">248</a><br />
+Gamblers, <a href="#Page_215">215</a><br />
+Geese, <a href="#Page_90">90</a>, <a href="#Page_198">198</a><br />
+Gen-kang, <a href="#Page_224">224</a>, <a href="#Page_226">226</a>, <a href="#Page_229">229</a>, <a href="#Page_288">288</a><br />
+Gibbon (<i>Hylobates</i>), <a href="#Page_258">258</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description of, <a href="#Page_254">254</a>, <a href="#Page_255">255</a>, <a href="#Page_281">281</a>, <a href="#Page_284">284</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">hunting of, <a href="#Page_285">285</a></span><br />
+Goffe, Consul-General at Yün-nan Fu, <a href="#Page_270">270</a><br />
+Goitre, prevalence of, <a href="#Page_92">92</a><br />
+Gorals, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>, <a href="#Page_76">76</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">first hunt for, <a href="#Page_120">120</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">ceremonies at death of, <a href="#Page_121">121</a>, <a href="#Page_123">123</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">collecting for groups, <a href="#Page_126">126</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">color of, <a href="#Page_126">126</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">invisibility of, <a href="#Page_128">128</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description of, <a href="#Page_144">144</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">horns of, <a href="#Page_144">144</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">distribution of, <a href="#Page_144">144</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">hunting of, <a href="#Page_144">144</a>, <a href="#Page_194">194</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fighting of, <a href="#Page_145">145</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">habits of, <a href="#Page_146">146</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">feet of, <a href="#Page_146">146</a>, <a href="#Page_194">194</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">hunting of, at Hui-yao, <a href="#Page_302">302</a>, <a href="#Page_309">309</a></span><br />
+Great Invisible, <a href="#Page_44">44</a><br />
+Grierson, Ralph C, <a href="#Page_xi">xi</a>, <a href="#Page_294">294</a>, <a href="#Page_295">295</a>, <a href="#Page_305">305</a>, <a href="#Page_317">317</a><br />
+<i>Grus communis</i>, <a href="#Page_236">236</a><br />
+<i>Grus nigricollis</i>, <a href="#Page_184">184</a><br />
+<br />
+Habala, <a href="#Page_164">164</a>; hunting at, <a href="#Page_165">165</a>, <a href="#Page_167">167</a><br />
+Haendel-Mazzetti, Baron, <a href="#Page_113">113</a>, <a href="#Page_123">123</a>, <a href="#Page_126">126</a>, <a href="#Page_164">164</a><br />
+Hainan, description of, <a href="#Page_77">77</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fauna of, <a href="#Page_77">77</a></span><br />
+Haiphong, <a href="#Page_77">77</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">arrival at, <a href="#Page_78">78</a>, <a href="#Page_79">79</a></span><br />
+Hanna, Rev. William J., <a href="#Page_xi">xi</a>, <a href="#Page_79">79</a>, <a href="#Page_89">89</a>, <a href="#Page_101">101</a>, <a href="#Page_106">106</a>, <a href="#Page_201">201</a>, <a href="#Page_204">204</a>, <a href="#Page_205">205</a>, <a href="#Page_206">206</a>, <a href="#Page_294">294</a><br />
+Hanoi, description of, <a href="#Page_x">x</a>, <a href="#Page_79">79</a><br />
+<i>Harper's Magazine</i>, <a href="#Page_ix">ix</a><br />
+Hartford, Mabel, <a href="#Page_22">22</a>, <a href="#Page_23">23</a>, <a href="#Page_204">204</a><br />
+Heller, Edmund, <a href="#Page_3">3</a>, <a href="#Page_4">4</a>, <a href="#Page_10">10</a>, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>, <a href="#Page_75">75</a>, <a href="#Page_79">79</a>, <a href="#Page_85">85</a>, <a href="#Page_94">94</a>, <a href="#Page_104">104</a>, <a href="#Page_105">105</a>, <a href="#Page_115">115</a>, <a href="#Page_116">116</a>, <a href="#Page_122">122</a>,<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><a href="#Page_123">123</a>, <a href="#Page_134">134</a>, <a href="#Page_135">135</a>, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>, <a href="#Page_146">146</a>, <a href="#Page_150">150</a>, <a href="#Page_161">161</a>, <a href="#Page_162">162</a>, <a href="#Page_173">173</a>, <a href="#Page_185">185</a>, <a href="#Page_195">195</a>, <a href="#Page_196">196</a>, <a href="#Page_227">227</a>, <a href="#Page_229">229</a>,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><a href="#Page_247">247</a>, <a href="#Page_275">275</a>, <a href="#Page_276">276</a>, <a href="#Page_284">284</a>, <a href="#Page_291">291</a>, <a href="#Page_298">298</a>, <a href="#Page_299">299</a>, <a href="#Page_300">300</a>, <a href="#Page_306">306</a>, <a href="#Page_311">311</a>, <a href="#Page_312">312</a></span><br />
+Himalaya Mountains, <a href="#Page_1">1</a><br />
+Hoi-hau, <a href="#Page_77">77</a><br />
+Homes, <a href="#Page_69">69</a><br />
+Ho-mu-shu, <a href="#Page_281">281</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">monkeys found near, <a href="#Page_282">282</a>, <a href="#Page_283">283</a>, <a href="#Page_289">289</a>, <a href="#Page_291">291</a>, <a href="#Page_318">318</a></span><br />
+Hongkong, purchase of supplies at, <a href="#Page_74">74</a>, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>, <a href="#Page_297">297</a>, <a href="#Page_321">321</a><br />
+Hoolock (<i>Hylobates hoolock</i>), <a href="#Page_289">289</a><br />
+Hornbill, <a href="#Page_245">245</a>, <a href="#Page_252">252</a><br />
+Horses, size of, <a href="#Page_85">85</a>, <a href="#Page_104">104</a><br />
+Hospital attendants, <a href="#Page_38">38</a><br />
+Hotenfa, <a href="#Page_129">129</a>, <a href="#Page_130">130</a>, <a href="#Page_181">181</a>, <a href="#Page_182">182</a>, <a href="#Page_134">134</a>, <a href="#Page_185">185</a>, <a href="#Page_161">161</a>, <a href="#Page_171">171</a>, <a href="#Page_174">174</a>, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>, <a href="#Page_194">194</a>, <a href="#Page_195">195</a><br />
+Hsia-kuan, description of, <a href="#Page_99">99</a>, <a href="#Page_108">108</a>, <a href="#Page_212">212</a><br />
+Hui-yao, <a href="#Page_142">142</a>, <a href="#Page_145">145</a>, <a href="#Page_298">298</a>, <a href="#Page_300">300</a>, <a href="#Page_301">301</a>, <a href="#Page_306">306</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">reptiles and lizards found at, <a href="#Page_310">310</a>, <a href="#Page_313">313</a>, <a href="#Page_315">315</a></span><br />
+Hunan, <a href="#Page_85">85</a>, <a href="#Page_86">86</a><br />
+Hung-Hsien, <a href="#Page_11">11</a><br />
+Hunters, <a href="#Page_114">114</a><br />
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_328">- 328 -</span>
+Hutchins, Commander Thomas, <a href="#Page_10">10</a><br />
+Hwa Shan (Flower Mountain), massacre at, <a href="#Page_28">28</a><br />
+<i>Hylobates</i>, <a href="#Page_254">254</a>, <a href="#Page_289">289</a><br />
+<i>Hylomys</i>, <a href="#Page_281">281</a>, <a href="#Page_251">251</a><br />
+<i>Hystrix</i>, <a href="#Page_116">116</a><br />
+<br />
+India, <a href="#Page_1">1</a>, <a href="#Page_57">57</a>, <a href="#Page_321">321</a><br />
+Inns, <a href="#Page_98">98</a><br />
+Irawadi River, <a href="#Page_81">81</a>, <a href="#Page_269">269</a>, <a href="#Page_297">297</a>, <a href="#Page_320">320</a><br />
+<br />
+Japan, <a href="#Page_5">5</a>, <a href="#Page_8">8</a><br />
+Japanese newspaper reporters, <a href="#Page_6">6</a><br />
+Joline, Mrs. Adrian Hoffman, <a href="#Page_x">x</a><br />
+Jungle fowl, <a href="#Page_247">247</a>, <a href="#Page_248">248</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">habits of, <a href="#Page_248">248</a>, <a href="#Page_280">280</a>.</span><br />
+<br />
+Kachins, <a href="#Page_289">289</a>, <a href="#Page_269">269</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">women, appearance of, <a href="#Page_241">241</a></span><br />
+Katha, <a href="#Page_320">320</a><br />
+Kellogg, C. R., <a href="#Page_xi">xi</a>, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>, <a href="#Page_15">15</a>, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>, <a href="#Page_66">66</a><br />
+Kok, Rev. and Mrs. A., <a href="#Page_xi">xi</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Pentecostal missionary, <a href="#Page_108">108</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">assistance of, <a href="#Page_112">112</a>, <a href="#Page_204">204</a>, <a href="#Page_294">294</a></span><br />
+Koko-nor, <a href="#Page_186">186</a><br />
+Koo, Wellington, <a href="#Page_9">9</a><br />
+Korea, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">pheasants found in, <a href="#Page_187">187</a></span><br />
+Kraemer, M., <a href="#Page_xi">xi</a><br />
+Kucheng, <a href="#Page_28">28</a><br />
+Kwang-si, <a href="#Page_9">9</a><br />
+Kwei-chau Province, <a href="#Page_8">8</a>, <a href="#Page_9">9</a>, <a href="#Page_137">137</a><br />
+<br />
+Lane & Crawford Company of Hongkong, <a href="#Page_77">77</a><br />
+Lang, Herbert, photograph of serow loaned by, <a href="#Page_144">144</a><br />
+Languages and dialects, number of, <a href="#Page_138">138</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">reason for, <a href="#Page_188">188</a>, <a href="#Page_139">139</a></span><br />
+Langur, <a href="#Page_255">255</a><br />
+Langurs (<i>Pygathrix</i>), <a href="#Page_257">257</a>, <a href="#Page_258">258</a><br />
+Lao-kay, first hotel on railroad, <a href="#Page_81">81</a><br />
+Lapwings, <a href="#Page_199">199</a><br />
+Las, <a href="#Page_239">239</a><br />
+Lashio, <a href="#Page_269">269</a><br />
+Legge, Prof. J., quoted, <a href="#Page_68">68</a><br />
+Leopards, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>, <a href="#Page_64">64</a><br />
+Leper hospital, <a href="#Page_78">78</a><br />
+<i>Li</i>, length of, <a href="#Page_84">84</a><br />
+Li-chiang, <a href="#Page_96">96</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">animal life on route to, <a href="#Page_107">107</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">arrival at, <a href="#Page_107">107</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">camp in, <a href="#Page_108">108</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">collecting in, <a href="#Page_109">109</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">mammals of, <a href="#Page_109">109</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">important fur market at, <a href="#Page_110">110</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">inhabitants of, <a href="#Page_117">117</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">return to, <a href="#Page_150">150</a>, <a href="#Page_155">155</a>, <a href="#Page_157">157</a>, <a href="#Page_190">190</a>, <a href="#Page_196">196</a>, <a href="#Page_254">254</a>, <a href="#Page_257">257</a></span><br />
+Li-Hung Chang, <a href="#Page_7">7</a><br />
+Ling-suik, monastery of, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description of, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">priests at, <a href="#Page_62">62</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">collecting at, <a href="#Page_63">63</a></span><br />
+Lisos, <a href="#Page_191">191</a>, <a href="#Page_289">289</a>, <a href="#Page_292">292</a><br />
+Livingstone, H. W., <a href="#Page_xi">xi</a>, <a href="#Page_19">19</a><br />
+Loads, weight of, <a href="#Page_54">54</a><br />
+Lolos, <a href="#Page_8">8</a>, <a href="#Page_184">184</a>, <a href="#Page_186">186</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">depredations of, <a href="#Page_137">137</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">independence of, <a href="#Page_188">188</a>, <a href="#Page_170">170</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">dress of, <a href="#Page_178">178</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">capes worn by, <a href="#Page_174">174</a>, <a href="#Page_188">188</a>, <a href="#Page_190">190</a></span><br />
+London Zoölogical Society's Garden, <a href="#Page_141">141</a><br />
+Long Ravine, blue tiger seen at, <a href="#Page_57">57</a><br />
+Lucas, Dr. F. A., acknowledgement to, <a href="#Page_x">x</a><br />
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_329">- 329 -</span>
+Lui, Mr., salt commissioner at Hsia-kuan, <a href="#Page_99">99</a><br />
+Lung-ling, <a href="#Page_281">281</a>, <a href="#Page_282">282</a>, <a href="#Page_294">294</a><br />
+Lung-tao, <a href="#Page_45">45</a>, <a href="#Page_54">54</a>, <a href="#Page_60">60</a>, <a href="#Page_63">63</a><br />
+Lutzus, <a href="#Page_191">191</a>, <a href="#Page_292">292</a><br />
+<br />
+McMurray, J. V. A., <a href="#Page_xi">xi</a><br />
+<i>Macacus rhesus</i>, <a href="#Page_258">258</a>, <a href="#Page_279">279</a>, <a href="#Page_305">305</a><br />
+<i>Mafus</i>, description of, <a href="#Page_87">87</a><br />
+Mail, <a href="#Page_290">290</a><br />
+Malaria, <a href="#Page_274">274</a>, <a href="#Page_291">291</a><br />
+Malay Peninsula, <a href="#Page_57">57</a><br />
+Ma-li-ling, <a href="#Page_264">264</a>, <a href="#Page_266">266</a><br />
+Ma-li-pa, <a href="#Page_265">265</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">poppy fields at, <a href="#Page_267">267</a>, <a href="#Page_269">269</a>, <a href="#Page_270">270</a>, <a href="#Page_272">272</a>, <a href="#Page_273">273</a></span><br />
+Mallard ducks, <a href="#Page_186">186</a>, <a href="#Page_199">199</a><br />
+Mammals, small, <a href="#Page_i">i</a>mportance of, <a href="#Page_110">110</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">preparing of, <a href="#Page_227">227</a></span><br />
+Man, primitive, migrations of, <a href="#Page_1">1</a><br />
+Man-eater, killing of, <a href="#Page_49">49</a><br />
+Mandalay, <a href="#Page_320">320</a><br />
+Mandarins, relations with, <a href="#Page_102">102</a>, <a href="#Page_243">243</a><br />
+Ma-po-lo, low valley at, <a href="#Page_225">225</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">game at, <a href="#Page_226">226</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fog in, <a href="#Page_226">226</a></span><br />
+Marco Polo, <a href="#Page_104">104</a><br />
+Massacre in Hwa Shan (Flower Mountain), <a href="#Page_23">23</a><br />
+Meadow vole (<i>Microtus</i>), <a href="#Page_118">118</a>, <a href="#Page_122">122</a><br />
+Mekong, <a href="#Page_191">191</a>, <a href="#Page_197">197</a><br />
+Mekong river, description of, <a href="#Page_192">192</a>, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>, <a href="#Page_201">201</a>, <a href="#Page_292">292</a><br />
+Mekong-Salween divide, <a href="#Page_190">190</a><br />
+Mekong valley, <a href="#Page_177">177</a>, <a href="#Page_182">182</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">vegetables in, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">zoölogy of, <a href="#Page_193">193</a></span><br />
+Meng-ting, <a href="#Page_226">226</a>, <a href="#Page_233">233</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description of, <a href="#Page_236">236</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">mandarin of, <a href="#Page_236">236</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Buddhist monastery at, <a href="#Page_238">238</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">market at, <a href="#Page_238">238</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Cantonese visit and buy opium at, <a href="#Page_242">242</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fog at, <a href="#Page_244">244</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">valley at, <a href="#Page_244">244</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">birds at, <a href="#Page_244">244</a></span><br />
+Mergansers, <a href="#Page_186">186</a><br />
+Methodist mission, <a href="#Page_24">24</a><br />
+Mexico, <a href="#Page_4">4</a><br />
+Miao village, <a href="#Page_273">273</a><br />
+Mice, <a href="#Page_176">176</a><br />
+<i>Micromys</i>, <a href="#Page_192">192</a><br />
+<i>Microtus</i>, meadow vole, <a href="#Page_118">118</a>, <a href="#Page_122">122</a>, <a href="#Page_173">173</a><br />
+Min River, <a href="#Page_15">15</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">life on, <a href="#Page_19">19</a>, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>, <a href="#Page_204">204</a></span><br />
+Mission hospital, <a href="#Page_36">36</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">China Inland, <a href="#Page_101">101</a></span><br />
+Missionaries, <a href="#Page_35">35</a>, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href="#Page_59">59</a>, <a href="#Page_67">67</a>, <a href="#Page_202">202</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">servants of, <a href="#Page_203">203</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">natives trading with, <a href="#Page_205">205</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">civilizing influence of, <a href="#Page_206">206</a></span><br />
+Mohammedan Chinese, married to a Shan, <a href="#Page_246">246</a><br />
+Mohammedan hunter, <a href="#Page_261">261</a>, <a href="#Page_264">264</a><br />
+Mohammedan war, <a href="#Page_101">101</a><br />
+Mole, <a href="#Page_176">176</a><br />
+Molloy, Agnes F., acknowledgment to, <a href="#Page_xi">xi</a><br />
+Money, carrying of, <a href="#Page_97">97</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">transmitting of, <a href="#Page_97">97</a></span><br />
+Monkey, <a href="#Page_192">192</a>, <a href="#Page_195">195</a><br />
+Monkey temple, <a href="#Page_258">258</a><br />
+Moose, <a href="#Page_1">1</a><br />
+Morgan, Cordelia, <a href="#Page_94">94</a>, <a href="#Page_95">95</a>, <a href="#Page_204">204</a><br />
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_330">- 330 -</span>
+Mosos, <a href="#Page_110">110</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description of, <a href="#Page_111">111</a>, <a href="#Page_155">155</a>, <a href="#Page_165">165</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">capes worn by, <a href="#Page_174">174</a>, <a href="#Page_190">190</a>, <a href="#Page_229">229</a></span><br />
+Motion pictures, <a href="#Page_76">76</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">developing of, <a href="#Page_315">315</a></span><br />
+Mountain goat, <a href="#Page_1">1</a><br />
+"Mountain Goat Hunting with Camera," quoted from, <a href="#Page_147">147</a><br />
+Mouse (<i>Micromys</i>), <a href="#Page_192">192</a><br />
+Moving picture film, <a href="#Page_166">166</a><br />
+Mu-cheng, <a href="#Page_229">229</a>, <a href="#Page_238">238</a><br />
+Muntjac, description of, <a href="#Page_28">28</a>, <a href="#Page_132">132</a>, <a href="#Page_225">225</a>, <a href="#Page_258">258</a>, <a href="#Page_292">292</a><br />
+Museum authorities, <a href="#Page_9">9</a><br />
+Mustelidæ, <a href="#Page_250">250</a><br />
+Myitkyina district, <a href="#Page_269">269</a><br />
+<br />
+<i>Næmorhedus griseus</i>, <a href="#Page_144">144</a><br />
+Nam-ka, Shans at, <a href="#Page_260">260</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description of, <a href="#Page_260">260</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">camp at, <a href="#Page_264">264</a></span><br />
+Nam-ting River, ferry at, <a href="#Page_235">235</a>, <a href="#Page_243">243</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">camping at, <a href="#Page_244">244</a>, <a href="#Page_245">245</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">hunters at, <a href="#Page_246">246</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">camp on, <a href="#Page_249">249</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">polecat trapped at, <a href="#Page_250">250</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">monkeys, hunting at, <a href="#Page_252">252</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">hornbill, seen at, <a href="#Page_253">253</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">monkeys found at, <a href="#Page_258">258</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Shans seen at, <a href="#Page_260">260</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">caravan crossed, <a href="#Page_264">264</a>, <a href="#Page_284">284</a>, <a href="#Page_289">289</a>, <a href="#Page_291">291</a>, <a href="#Page_318">318</a></span><br />
+<i>Namur</i>, S. S., <a href="#Page_297">297</a><br />
+Natives, <a href="#Page_91">91</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">inaccuracy of, <a href="#Page_158">158</a></span><br />
+New York, return to, <a href="#Page_321">321</a><br />
+Ngu-cheng, <a href="#Page_205">205</a><br />
+Non-Chinese tribes, <a href="#Page_3">3</a><br />
+North America, <a href="#Page_1">1</a><br />
+Northern soldiers, <a href="#Page_35">35</a>, <a href="#Page_42">42</a><br />
+Northern troops, <a href="#Page_40">40</a><br />
+<br />
+Opium, <a href="#Page_91">91</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">growing of, <a href="#Page_91">91</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">inspection of, <a href="#Page_91">91</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">scandal, <a href="#Page_91">91</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">smuggling of, <a href="#Page_91">91</a>, <a href="#Page_267">267</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">smoking of, <a href="#Page_318">318</a></span><br />
+Osborn, Henry Fairfield, quoted, <a href="#Page_146">146</a>, <a href="#Page_147">147</a><br />
+<br />
+Pack saddle, description of, <a href="#Page_85">85</a><br />
+Pack, weight of, <a href="#Page_85">85</a><br />
+Page, Howard, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>, <a href="#Page_84">84</a>, <a href="#Page_200">200</a><br />
+Paget color plates, <a href="#Page_166">166</a>, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>, <a href="#Page_316">316</a><br />
+Pagoda Anchorage, <a href="#Page_15">15</a>, <a href="#Page_66">66</a><br />
+Paik-hoi, <a href="#Page_78">78</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">leper hospital at, <a href="#Page_205">205</a></span><br />
+Palaungs, <a href="#Page_239">239</a><br />
+Palmer, Mr., <a href="#Page_290">290</a>, <a href="#Page_294">294</a><br />
+Pandas, coats of, <a href="#Page_103">103</a><br />
+Pangolin, scales of, <a href="#Page_103">103</a><br />
+Parrots, <a href="#Page_244">244</a><br />
+Partridges, bamboo, <a href="#Page_245">245</a><br />
+Passports, <a href="#Page_11">11</a><br />
+<i>Pavo cristatus</i>, <a href="#Page_277">277</a><br />
+<i>Pavo munticus</i>, <a href="#Page_277">277</a><br />
+Peacock, black-shouldered, <a href="#Page_279">279</a><br />
+Peacock, hunting of, <a href="#Page_274">274</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">habits of, <a href="#Page_277">277</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">eggs of, <a href="#Page_277">277</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">domestication of, <a href="#Page_278">278</a></span><br />
+Peacock, Indian, <a href="#Page_277">277</a><br />
+Peafowl, killed on Salween River, <a href="#Page_277">277</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">flesh of, <a href="#Page_277">277</a></span><br />
+Peking, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="#Page_7">7</a>, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>, <a href="#Page_12">12</a>, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>, <a href="#Page_209">209</a><br />
+<i>Petaurista yunnanensis</i>, <a href="#Page_103">103</a><br />
+Phasianidæ, <a href="#Page_279">279</a><br />
+Pheasants, shooting of, <a href="#Page_90">90</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Lady Amherst's, <a href="#Page_150">150</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">silver, <a href="#Page_279">279</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">horned, <a href="#Page_291">291</a></span><br />
+Phete, <a href="#Page_167">167</a>; country about, <a href="#Page_168">168</a>;<br />
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_331">- 331 -</span>
+Photographic work, <a href="#Page_166">166</a><br />
+Photographs in natural colors, <a href="#Page_4">4</a><br />
+Photography, cinematograph, <a href="#Page_316">316</a><br />
+Pigeons, <a href="#Page_280">280</a><br />
+Pigs, killing of, <a href="#Page_22">22</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">wild, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>, <a href="#Page_64">64</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">treatment of, <a href="#Page_90">90</a>, <a href="#Page_188">188</a></span><br />
+Pin-toil, <a href="#Page_199">199</a><br />
+Pleistocene, <a href="#Page_1">1</a><br />
+Pocock, Mr., <a href="#Page_141">141</a><br />
+Polecat, <a href="#Page_250">250</a><br />
+Polo, Marco, <a href="#Page_176">176</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">quoted, <a href="#Page_219">219</a></span><br />
+Poppy blossoms, <a href="#Page_265">265</a><br />
+Poppy fields, <a href="#Page_91">91</a><br />
+Porcupine, description of, <a href="#Page_115">115</a><br />
+Portable dark room, <a href="#Page_166">166</a><br />
+Prjevalsky, Lieutenant-Colonel, <a href="#Page_186">186</a><br />
+P'u-erh, <a href="#Page_212">212</a><br />
+<i>Pygathrix</i> (monkeys), <a href="#Page_192">192</a>, <a href="#Page_195">195</a>, <a href="#Page_258">258</a><br />
+<br />
+Railroad, Hanoi to Yün-nan, <a href="#Page_80">80</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description of, <a href="#Page_81">81</a></span><br />
+Rain, last of the season, <a href="#Page_185">185</a>, <a href="#Page_290">290</a>, <a href="#Page_315">315</a>, <a href="#Page_317">317</a><br />
+Rainey, Paul J., <a href="#Page_4">4</a><br />
+Rangoon, <a href="#Page_269">269</a>, <a href="#Page_272">272</a>, <a href="#Page_279">279</a>, <a href="#Page_320">320</a>, <a href="#Page_321">321</a><br />
+<i>Ratufa gigantea</i>, <a href="#Page_251">251</a><br />
+Rebellion of 1918, <a href="#Page_8">8</a><br />
+Reinsch, Hon. Paul, <a href="#Page_xi">xi</a>, <a href="#Page_10">10</a>, <a href="#Page_11">11</a><br />
+Republic, <a href="#Page_16">16</a><br />
+Rhododendrons, <a href="#Page_291">291</a><br />
+Rice, <a href="#Page_168">168</a><br />
+Rice fields, <a href="#Page_89">89</a><br />
+Rifle, Mannlicher, <a href="#Page_75">75</a>, <a href="#Page_256">256</a>, <a href="#Page_266">266</a>, <a href="#Page_300">300</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Savage, <a href="#Page_75">75</a>, <a href="#Page_271">271</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Winchester, <a href="#Page_60">60</a>, <a href="#Page_75">75</a></span><br />
+Riot in Shanghai, <a href="#Page_152">152</a><br />
+Roads, descriptions of, <a href="#Page_87">87</a><br />
+Rocky Mountain sheep, <a href="#Page_1">1</a><br />
+Roosevelt, Colonel Theodore, <a href="#Page_4">4</a><br />
+<i>Rupicapra</i>, <a href="#Page_140">140</a><br />
+Rupicaprine antelopes, horns of, <a href="#Page_140">140</a><br />
+<br />
+Salt, preparation of, <a href="#Page_196">196</a>, <a href="#Page_197">197</a><br />
+Salween River, <a href="#Page_278">278</a>, <a href="#Page_278">278</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">heat of, <a href="#Page_280">280</a>, <a href="#Page_282">282</a>, <a href="#Page_288">288</a>, <a href="#Page_305">305</a></span><br />
+Sambur, <a href="#Page_226">226</a>, <a href="#Page_229">229</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">hunting of, <a href="#Page_311">311</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">blood of, <a href="#Page_312">312</a></span><br />
+Sammons, Mr., American Consul-General, <a href="#Page_12">12</a><br />
+Sampans, first night in, <a href="#Page_20">20</a><br />
+San Francisco, <a href="#Page_5">5</a><br />
+Scandinavian steamer, <a href="#Page_11">11</a><br />
+Schools for native girls, <a href="#Page_67">67</a><br />
+Sclater, Mr., <a href="#Page_278">278</a><br />
+Screaming, Chinese habit of, <a href="#Page_15">15</a><br />
+Sedan chairs, <a href="#Page_16">16</a><br />
+Serows, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">hunt for, <a href="#Page_27">27</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">habits of, <a href="#Page_29">29</a>, <a href="#Page_64">64</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">hunting for, <a href="#Page_184">184</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description of, <a href="#Page_185">185</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">color variation of, <a href="#Page_186">186</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Japanese, <a href="#Page_140">140</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">difference from gorals, <a href="#Page_140">140</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">horns of, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">relationship of, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">appearance of, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">killed on Snow Mountain, <a href="#Page_142">142</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">obtained by Mr. Caldwell at Yen-ping, <a href="#Page_142">142</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">distribution of, <a href="#Page_142">142</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">habits of, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">weight of, <a href="#Page_148">148</a>, <a href="#Page_305">305</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">hunting of at Hoi-yao, <a href="#Page_306">306</a>, <a href="#Page_307">307</a>, <a href="#Page_308">308</a>, <a href="#Page_309">309</a></span><br />
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_332">- 332 -</span>
+Servants, wages of, <a href="#Page_204">204</a><br />
+Shanghai, <a href="#Page_11">11</a>, <a href="#Page_12">12</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">riot in, <a href="#Page_152">152</a>, <a href="#Page_316">316</a></span><br />
+Shans, <a href="#Page_8">8</a>, <a href="#Page_225">225</a>, <a href="#Page_288">288</a>, <a href="#Page_242">242</a>, <a href="#Page_282">282</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description of village of, <a href="#Page_284">284</a>, <a href="#Page_245">245</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">houses of, <a href="#Page_260">260</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">heavily tattooed, <a href="#Page_261">261</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">tribes of, <a href="#Page_262">262</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description of, <a href="#Page_262">262</a>, <a href="#Page_288">288</a>, <a href="#Page_318">318</a></span><br />
+Sheldrakes, <a href="#Page_186">186</a><br />
+Sherwood, George H., assistance rendered to Expedition by, <a href="#Page_x">x</a><br />
+Shia-chai, <a href="#Page_218">218</a><br />
+Shih-tien, <a href="#Page_223">223</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">bird life at, <a href="#Page_223">223</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">natives, curiosity of, <a href="#Page_224">224</a>, <a href="#Page_225">225</a></span><br />
+Shih-ku ferry, <a href="#Page_182">182</a>, <a href="#Page_184">184</a><br />
+Shoverling, Daly & Gales, ammunition, guns, tents, furnished by, <a href="#Page_4">4</a><br />
+Shrew, <a href="#Page_178">178</a>, <a href="#Page_251">251</a><br />
+Shweli River, <a href="#Page_145">145</a><br />
+Singapore, <a href="#Page_321">321</a><br />
+Slave raiding, <a href="#Page_189">189</a><br />
+Smith, Arthur H., quoted, <a href="#Page_158">158</a>, <a href="#Page_214">214</a>, <a href="#Page_215">215</a><br />
+Snow Mountain, camp at, <a href="#Page_112">112</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">traveling to, <a href="#Page_112">112</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description of hunters at, <a href="#Page_114">114</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">mammalogy of, <a href="#Page_116">116</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">camp on slopes of, <a href="#Page_118">118</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">mammals collected at, <a href="#Page_127">127</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">serows killed on, <a href="#Page_142">142</a>, <a href="#Page_166">166</a>, <a href="#Page_176">176</a>, <a href="#Page_182">182</a>, <a href="#Page_184">184</a></span><br />
+Soldiers, guard of, <a href="#Page_97">97</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">guns of, <a href="#Page_97">97</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">expense of, <a href="#Page_97">97</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">use of, <a href="#Page_97">97</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">treatment by natives of, <a href="#Page_98">98</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fight with, <a href="#Page_187">187</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">extortions of, <a href="#Page_188">188</a></span><br />
+South America, <a href="#Page_4">4</a><br />
+Specimens, packing of, <a href="#Page_296">296</a>, <a href="#Page_315">315</a><br />
+Squirrel, flying (<i>Petaurista yunnanensis</i>), <a href="#Page_291">291</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><i>Ratufa gigantea</i>, <a href="#Page_251">251</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">red-bellied (<i>Callosciurus erythræus</i>), <a href="#Page_89">89</a>, <a href="#Page_280">280</a></span><br />
+S'suchuan Province, <a href="#Page_8">8</a>, <a href="#Page_137">137</a>, <a href="#Page_174">174</a><br />
+S'su-mao, <a href="#Page_178">178</a>, <a href="#Page_212">212</a><br />
+Standard Oil Co., <a href="#Page_xi">xi</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">launch of, <a href="#Page_19">19</a>, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>, <a href="#Page_200">200</a></span><br />
+Su Ek, <a href="#Page_207">207</a><br />
+Sun-birds, <a href="#Page_244">244</a><br />
+<i>Sung-kiang</i>, S. S., <a href="#Page_78">78</a><br />
+<br />
+Tablets, ancestral, description of, <a href="#Page_215">215</a><br />
+Tai-ping-pu, <a href="#Page_291">291</a>, <a href="#Page_298">298</a><br />
+Taku, <a href="#Page_160">160</a>, <a href="#Page_184">184</a><br />
+Taku ferry, <a href="#Page_164">164</a><br />
+Ta-li Fu, soldiers guard to, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">road to, <a href="#Page_99">99</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">graves at, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">lake at, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">mandarin at, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">pagodas at, <a href="#Page_100">100</a>, <a href="#Page_104">104</a>, <a href="#Page_105">105</a>, <a href="#Page_188">188</a>, <a href="#Page_186">186</a>, <a href="#Page_198">198</a>, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>, <a href="#Page_201">201</a></span><br />
+Ta-li Fu Lake, description of, <a href="#Page_199">199</a><br />
+<i>Tamiops macclellandi</i>, <a href="#Page_280">280</a><br />
+Taoist temple, <a href="#Page_26">26</a><br />
+Tao-tai, <a href="#Page_85">85</a><br />
+Tartars, <a href="#Page_219">219</a>, <a href="#Page_221">221</a><br />
+Temple, camp in, <a href="#Page_86">86</a><br />
+Teng-yueh, <a href="#Page_4">4</a>, <a href="#Page_141">141</a>, <a href="#Page_289">289</a>, <a href="#Page_291">291</a>, <a href="#Page_298">298</a>, <a href="#Page_294">294</a>, <a href="#Page_295">295</a>, <a href="#Page_298">298</a>, <a href="#Page_318">318</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">return to, <a href="#Page_315">315</a>, <a href="#Page_317">317</a></span><br />
+Tents, <a href="#Page_74">74</a><br />
+<i>Tenyo Maru</i>, <a href="#Page_5">5</a>, <a href="#Page_9">9</a><br />
+Thompson, Dr., <a href="#Page_205">205</a><br />
+Tibet, <a href="#Page_8">8</a>, <a href="#Page_108">108</a>, <a href="#Page_172">172</a>, <a href="#Page_178">178</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">monopoly of gold in, <a href="#Page_181">181</a>, <a href="#Page_188">188</a></span><br />
+Tibetan plateaus, <a href="#Page_191">191</a><br />
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_333">- 333 -</span>
+Tibetans, description of, <a href="#Page_178">178</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">photographing of, <a href="#Page_179">179</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">dislike for strangers of, <a href="#Page_180">180</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">influence of Chinese on, <a href="#Page_181">181</a>, <a href="#Page_183">183</a>, <a href="#Page_190">190</a>, <a href="#Page_191">191</a>, <a href="#Page_212">212</a></span><br />
+Tiger, <a href="#Page_22">22</a>, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>, <a href="#Page_64">64</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">man-eating, <a href="#Page_44">44</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">lairs of, <a href="#Page_45">45</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">stalking a goat, <a href="#Page_45">45</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">habits of, <a href="#Page_46">46</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">daring of, <a href="#Page_47">47</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">strength of, <a href="#Page_48">48</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">excitement of hunting, <a href="#Page_49">49</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">weight of, <a href="#Page_50">50</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">blood of, <a href="#Page_50">50</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">skins in temples of, <a href="#Page_51">51</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">food of, <a href="#Page_51">51</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">hunting in lair of, <a href="#Page_51">51</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">flesh and bones of, <a href="#Page_51">51</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">marking trees by, <a href="#Page_52">52</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">skins of, <a href="#Page_103">103</a></span><br />
+Tiger, blue, <a href="#Page_8">8</a>, <a href="#Page_43">43</a>, <a href="#Page_55">55</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description of, <a href="#Page_56">56</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">hunting of, <a href="#Page_57">57</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">trying to trap, <a href="#Page_60">60</a></span><br />
+Tonking, <a href="#Page_3">3</a>, <a href="#Page_77">77</a>, <a href="#Page_81">81</a>, <a href="#Page_93">93</a>, <a href="#Page_178">178</a>, <a href="#Page_212">212</a><br />
+Tragopan, Temminck's, <a href="#Page_291">291</a><br />
+Transportation, difficulties of, <a href="#Page_321">321</a><br />
+Trapping, methods of, <a href="#Page_110">110</a><br />
+Traps, steel, <a href="#Page_75">75</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">method of setting, <a href="#Page_245">245</a></span><br />
+Trees, marking of, by tiger, <a href="#Page_52">52</a><br />
+Tribes, non-Chinese, description of, <a href="#Page_138">138</a><br />
+Trimble, Dr., <a href="#Page_32">32</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">house of, <a href="#Page_34">34</a>, <a href="#Page_36">36</a>, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>, <a href="#Page_205">205</a>, <a href="#Page_207">207</a></span><br />
+Trowbridge, Captain Harry, <a href="#Page_77">77</a>, <a href="#Page_78">78</a>, <a href="#Page_79">79</a><br />
+Tsai-ao, General, <a href="#Page_9">9</a><br />
+<i>Tsamba</i>, <a href="#Page_178">178</a><br />
+Ts'ang mountains, <a href="#Page_100">100</a><br />
+Tsinan-fu, <a href="#Page_12">12</a><br />
+<i>Tupaia belangeri chinensis</i>, <a href="#Page_89">89</a><br />
+<br />
+United States, <a href="#Page_4">4</a><br />
+Universal Camera, <a href="#Page_76">76</a><br />
+<i>Ursus tibetanus</i>, <a href="#Page_296">296</a><br />
+<br />
+Vegetarians, <a href="#Page_23">23</a><br />
+<i>Viverra</i>, <a href="#Page_246">246</a><br />
+Viverridæ, <a href="#Page_247">247</a><br />
+Vochang, <a href="#Page_218">218</a><br />
+Vole, <a href="#Page_173">173</a><br />
+Von Hintze, Admiral, <a href="#Page_11">11</a><br />
+<br />
+Wapiti, <a href="#Page_1">1</a>, <a href="#Page_175">175</a><br />
+War, Mohammedan, <a href="#Page_101">101</a><br />
+Was, <a href="#Page_239">239</a><br />
+Waterhole, <a href="#Page_258">258</a><br />
+Wa-tien, <a href="#Page_310">310</a>, <a href="#Page_313">313</a><br />
+Wei-hsi, <a href="#Page_182">182</a>, <a href="#Page_187">187</a>, <a href="#Page_190">190</a>, <a href="#Page_196">196</a><br />
+White Water, <a href="#Page_149">149</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">camp at, <a href="#Page_149">149</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">weather at, <a href="#Page_149">149</a></span><br />
+Wild boar, <a href="#Page_258">258</a><br />
+Wilden, Henry M., French Consul, <a href="#Page_82">82</a><br />
+Wolves, <a href="#Page_25">25</a><br />
+Woman's college at Foochow, <a href="#Page_67">67</a><br />
+Women, position of, <a href="#Page_i">i</a>n China, <a href="#Page_67">67</a><br />
+Worship, ancestor, <a href="#Page_156">156</a><br />
+Wu Hung-tao, <a href="#Page_i">i</a>nterpreter, <a href="#Page_x">x</a>, <a href="#Page_4">4</a>, <a href="#Page_77">77</a>, <a href="#Page_87">87</a>, <a href="#Page_102">102</a>, <a href="#Page_105">105</a>, <a href="#Page_108">108</a>, <a href="#Page_123">123</a>, <a href="#Page_136">136</a>, <a href="#Page_168">168</a>,<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;"><a href="#Page_187">187</a>, <a href="#Page_191">191</a>, <a href="#Page_200">200</a>, <a href="#Page_213">213</a>, <a href="#Page_238">238</a>, <a href="#Page_267">267</a>, <a href="#Page_289">289</a>, <a href="#Page_294">294</a>, <a href="#Page_312">312</a>, <a href="#Page_318">318</a>, <a href="#Page_321">321</a></span><br />
+<br />
+<i>Yamen</i>, <a href="#Page_39">39</a><br />
+Yangtze River, <a href="#Page_19">19</a>, <a href="#Page_81">81</a>, <a href="#Page_137">137</a>, <a href="#Page_150">150</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">road to, <a href="#Page_157">157</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">crossing of, <a href="#Page_161">161</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">barrier to mammals, <a href="#Page_163">163</a>, <a href="#Page_184">184</a>, <a href="#Page_187">187</a>, <a href="#Page_193">193</a>, <a href="#Page_201">201</a>, <a href="#Page_262">262</a></span><br />
+Yangtze gorge, description of, <a href="#Page_160">160</a>, <a href="#Page_164">164</a>, <a href="#Page_167">167</a><br />
+
+<span class="pagenum" id="Page_334">- 334 -</span>
+Yen-ping, <a href="#Page_20">20</a>, <a href="#Page_22">22</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">climate of, <a href="#Page_24">24</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">description of, <a href="#Page_24">24</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">residence of Mr. Caldwell at, <a href="#Page_24">24</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Methodist Mission at, <a href="#Page_24">24</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">trapping at, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">rebellion in, <a href="#Page_33">33</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">refugees from, <a href="#Page_33">33</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fighting in, <a href="#Page_34">34</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">attacked by rebels in, <a href="#Page_35">35</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">wounded in, <a href="#Page_36">36</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">schools for native girls at, <a href="#Page_67">67</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Chinese wedding at, <a href="#Page_72">72</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">missionary buildings of, <a href="#Page_203">203</a>, <a href="#Page_205">205</a>, <a href="#Page_207">207</a></span><br />
+Yokohama, <a href="#Page_5">5</a><br />
+Yuan, <a href="#Page_7">7</a>, <a href="#Page_8">8</a>, <a href="#Page_10">10</a>, <a href="#Page_12">12</a><br />
+Yuan Shi-kai, <a href="#Page_7">7</a>, <a href="#Page_10">10</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">death of, <a href="#Page_12">12</a>, <a href="#Page_14">14</a>, <a href="#Page_34">34</a></span><br />
+Yuchi, <a href="#Page_22">22</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">brigands at, <a href="#Page_23">23</a>, <a href="#Page_24">24</a>, <a href="#Page_35">35</a>, <a href="#Page_36">36</a>, <a href="#Page_204">204</a>, <a href="#Page_207">207</a>, <a href="#Page_208">208</a>, <a href="#Page_211">211</a></span><br />
+Yung-chang, Chinese New Year at, <a href="#Page_212">212</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">road to, <a href="#Page_212">212</a>, <a href="#Page_214">214</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">water buffaloes at, <a href="#Page_218">218</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">battle at, <a href="#Page_218">218</a></span><br />
+Yung-chang-Teng-yueh road, <a href="#Page_282">282</a><br />
+Yün-nan, <a href="#Page_xi">xi</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">size of, <a href="#Page_2">2</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">topography of, <a href="#Page_3">3</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">boundaries of, <a href="#Page_3">3</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">fauna of, <a href="#Page_3">3</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">natives of, <a href="#Page_3">3</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">language of, <a href="#Page_3">3</a>, <a href="#Page_10">10</a>, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">infested with brigands, <a href="#Page_83">83</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">zoölogical study of, <a href="#Page_83">83</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">meaning of, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">summer climate of, <a href="#Page_99">99</a></span><br />
+Yün-nan Fu, <a href="#Page_9">9</a>;<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">foreign residents of, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">foreign office at, <a href="#Page_97">97</a>;</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">Dr. Thompson's hospital at, <a href="#Page_205">205</a></span><br />
+<br />
+Zoölogical Garden, Berlin, <a href="#Page_144">144</a><br />
+Zoölogical Park, Calcutta, <a href="#Page_144">144</a><br />
+</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+<hr class="tb" />
+
+<div class="transnote">
+
+<p class="caption3nb">Transcriber Note</p>
+
+<p>Minor typos corrected. Hyphenation was generally standardized to the most
+frequently utilized version. Text was rearranged to avoid splitting by
+images. The terms Irawadi and Irrawaddy seem to both apply to the same
+River and valley. Both names retained.</p>
+
+</div>
+
+
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